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LVOº]"II º S. ONI （ILS-3, LIX GHIL ONIJLSGIL

NMANUAL TRAINING TOYS
for THE BOY'S WORKSHOP
13, HARRIS W. MOORE
SUPERVISOR OF MANUAL TRAINING
WATERTOWN, MASSACHUSETTS
T H E M A NUAL ARTS PR ESS
PEO RIA, ILL INOIS

DEDICATED
TO THE BOY WHO LIKES
TO TINKER "ROUND
329693
Copyright, 1912
HARRIs W. MOORE
Fourth Edition, 1916
CONTENTS.
/
Frontispiece. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Testing the Kite-string Sailboat
Introduction— PAGE.
Bench, Marking Tools. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Saws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Planes, Bits, Nails. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Screws, Glue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Sandpaper, Dowels, Drills, Sharpening. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Holding Work . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Directions for Planing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Dart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Spool Dart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Dart for Whip-Bow. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Buzzer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Flying Top (Plate 3) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
Flying Top (Plate 4) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Top . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Tom-Tom Drum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Pop-gun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Whistle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Arrow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Bow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Sword . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Magic Box . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
Pencil-Box . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * c e s e a e s e e s e e e º a 41
Telephone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
Happy Jack Windmill. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Gloucester “Happy Jack” Windmill. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
Paddling Indian Windmill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
Kite . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
Tailless, Kite . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .................. 53
Box Kite . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .............. 54.
CONTENTS.—(Continued.)
* PAGE.
Kite-String Sailboat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
The Hygroscope or Weather Cottage. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
Electrophorus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62
Waterwheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64
Water Motor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
Sand Wheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
Running Wheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
Rattle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
Cart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78
Cannon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81
Automobile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84
Bow Pistol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86
Elastic Gun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88
Rattle-Bang Gun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92
Boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
Pile-Driver . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98
Windmill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
Kite-String Reel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103
String Machine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106
Windmill Force-Pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108
INTRODUCTION.
The wise man learns from the experience of others. That is the
reason for this introduction—to tell the boy who wants to make the
toys described in this book some of the “tricks of the trade.” It is
supposed, however, that he has had some instruction in the use of
tools.
This book is written after long experience in teaching boys, and
because of that experience, the author desires to urge upon his
younger readers two bits of advice: First, study the drawing care-
fully,–every line has a meaning; second, printed directions become
clearer by actually taking the tool in hand and beginning to do the
work described.
BENCH.
If he buys the wise-screw, an ambitious boy can make a bench
that will answer his needs, provided, also, that he can fasten it to
floor or wall. It should be rigid. A beginner will find a hard wood
board, 10"x2"x}4", fastened to the forward end of the bench, a
more convenient stop than the ordinary bench-dog. If he has a
nicely finished bench, he should learn to work without injuring the
bench. A cutting board should always be at hand to chisel and pound
upon and to save the bench-top from all ill use. The bench-hook
should have one side for sawing and one for planing, the former
having a block shorter than the width of the board so that the teeth
of the saw, when they come thru the work, will strike the bench-hook
rather than the bench-top.
MARKING TOOLS.
To measure accurately, hold the ruler on its edge so that the
divisions on the scale come close to the thing measured. Let the
pencil or knife point make a dash on the thing measured which would
exactly continue the division line on the ruler. If it can be avoided,
never use the end of the ruler; learn to measure from some figure on
the ruler.
8 MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
The spur of the gage should be filed like a knife point. It seldom
stands at zero of the scale, hence, when setting the gage for accurate
work, measure from the block to the spur with a ruler. The gage
is a rather difficult tool for a boy to use but it will pay to master it.
It may be used wherever square edges are to be made, but chamfers
and bevels should be marked with a pencil.
In laying out work, the beam (the thick part) of the trysquare
should always be kept on either the working-face or the working-edge.
(See page 13, Directions for Planing.) Let the blade rest flat on
any surface. Hold the trysquare snugly to the work with the fingers
and thumb acting much like a bird’s claw. -*
For accurate work (e. g. joints), lines should be drawn (scored)
with the sharp point of a small knife blade, held nearly straight up
from the edge of the trysquare blade. wº
Circles are located by two lines crossing at the center.
SAWS.
The teeth of a Tip-saw are like so many little chisels set in a row;
they pare the wood away. The teeth of a crosscut-saw are like knife
points, they score two lines, and the wood breaks off between them.
Large sawing should be done on a saw-horse so that the worker is
over his work. If it is necessary to hold work in the wise to rip it,
hold it slanting, so that the handle of the saw leads the line, as it
naturally does when the work is on a saw-horse.
The back-saw, tho a crosscut-saw, may be used in any direction
of the grain.
Any saw should be in motion when it touches the wood it is
to cut. To guide it to the right place, a workman lets his thumb
touch the saw just above the teeth, the hand resting firmly on the
wood. A little notch, cut in the edge right to the line where the saw
is to cut, will help a beginner to start accurately. Saws are rapid
tools, and it pays to go slowly enough with them to do accurate
work. Plan the work so as to make as few cuts as possible.
Turning-Saws are best used so that the cutting is done on the pull
stroke, keeping the two hands near together. When one handle is
turned, the other must be turned equally.
INTRODUCTION. 9
PLANES.
Generally being in a hurry to get work done, boys are apt to take
big shavings with a plane. This results in rough work. Fine shav-
ings are better. If the plane is allowed to rest level on the work,
it will find the high places without continual adjusting. The first
two inches of a stroke are the hardest to plane; to plane these, press
harder on the forward end of the plane. Start the plane level.
Usually it is best to keep the plane straight, or nearly so, in the di-
rection of the push.
The block-plane is properly used to plane the end of wood. (See
page 12 on Holding Work.) On other small surfaces, however, it is
often more convenient than a large plane.
BITS.
Auger-bits are numbered by the number of sixteenths in the dia-
meter of the hole they bore, e. g. No. 4 bores a 4/16" hole. Gimlet-
bits are numbered by thirty-seconds.
Whenever boring with an auger-bit, stop as soon as the spur
pricks thru. the other side, turn the work over, start the spur in
the little hole it made, and finish boring. It will always split the
wood, if the bit is allowed to go way thru. It is difficult to bore a
hole straight thru a piece of wood, because to tell whether the bit
is held straight when starting the hole, one must look at it from two
directions If someone else can stand a quarter circle away from the
worker and watch the bit, that is the best help; otherwise, the worker
himself must hold the brace steady while he walks around a quarter
circle and judges whether the bit is straight. Care should be taken
to hold the work level in the wise.
NAILS.
&
The words, “nail,” “brad,” and “nailing” are used somewhat in-
terchangeably in this book; “nailing” may mean driving a brad.
Brads have smaller, thicker heads, nails have larger, flat heads.
To drive a nail straight, start it straight. The hole cannot be
10 IMANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
straightened by bending the mail so that it looks straight after it is
partly driven. Many gentle blows with the hammer will often drive
a nail where heavy blows would fail. The fingers pinching the nail
often prevent its bending. If possible, keep nails away from the
corners of boards. Several nails joining two boards hold them
stronger if the nails are driven at different angles. Nails are usually
“set,” that is, the heads are driven with a nail-set below the surface.
They must always be set below surfaces which are to be planed. It
is often wise not to drive the first nail or two way in until the work
is examined. In withdrawing nails, a block under the hammer will
often aid greatly, and also protect the surface of the work.
SCREWS.
Screws usually need holes properly bored to receive them; a large
hole first, the size of the screw above the threads, a small hole next,
the size at the roots of the threads (in hard wood somewhat larger),
and a place for the head made with a counter-sink. Usually the
screw should slip easily thru the first piece of wood and be tight in
the second. The screwdriver should always be held in the line that
the screw is going, and it ought fairly to fit the slot in the head. In
hard wood, one must be careful not to twist screws off, especially
brass screws, which are easily broken.
GLUE.
A beginner often wonders why things stick to his fingers instead
of to their proper places; it is because he has a little glue on his
fingers and usually a lot on the article; therefore, don’t use too much
glue. It is best, especially in holes and their pegs, to put glue on
both surfaces of contact. Good glue will hold two surfaces, making
good contact, stronger than the wood. Wipe off excess glue as soon
as possible, using hot water for hot glue. Much labor is thus saved.
Allow glue plenty of time to become dry. The moisture has to work
its way thru the wood itself, and this takes hours; six to ten hours
is not too long.
INTRODUCTION. 11
SANDPAPER.
Sandpaper varies in coarseness from No. 00 to No. 3, every sheet
being stamped. It should not be used on a given piece until all work
with edge tools is finished. The particles of sand left in the surface
would quickly dull an edge tool. When using sandpaper on flat sur-
faces, wrap it closely about a rectangular block of wood. Try to
keep all corners as sharp as they are left by the edge tools so that
there will be a crispness of appearance which always marks good work-
manship. Often the same care in holding work while sandpapering
it must be taken as was taken when shaping it. Always sandpaper
with, or lengthwise the grain.
DOWELS.
Sticks that are planed nearly to size can be made round and
smooth by driving them thru a hole in a block of hard wood or iron;
such sticks are called dowels. Two holes may be used if the second
, is only a little smaller than the first. Drive gently with a mallet
rather than with a hammer. In many of the models in this book
such dowels are used. Dowels (made by a different process, how-
ever,) can often be bought at hardware stores.
DRILLS.
For ease in making Small holes, a hand-drill is essential. For some
holes a headless nail will answer. To make better drills, break a needle,
a knitting-needle, umbrella rib, or other piece of hard wire to suit-
able length; on a grindstone, flatten it near the point on two sides;
then, putting it in the chuck of the hand-drill, try to hold it on the
grindstone at the proper angle to form the two cutting edges; or it
may be held against the edge of the bench and sharpened with an
oilstone resting on top of the bench. Very convenient long drills
can be thus made of knitting-needles.
SHARPENING.
To work with dull tools is altogether unsatisfactory. A boy should
learn to sharpen his own edge tools. To grind a good bevel on a tool
12 \ MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
like a chisel, it must rest upon something steady. The reflection of light
on the newly ground surface will indicate whether the surface is flat
or not. This process of grinding makes what is called a feather-
edge, or wire-edge, and the tool must be whetted on an oilstone to
remove this wire-edge. The flat side must be kept flat on the stone;
the bevel may be lifted just a trifle. When whetting the bevel, try
to avoid a rocking motion, for this would round the edge. After
the wire-edge is completely removed, a still keener edge can be ob-
tained by stropping the tool on a piece of leather, much as a razor
is stropped. A piece of leather glued to a wooden mount and
sprinkled occasionally with the finest emery powder will help much
in keeping the edge tools keen.
HOLDING WORK.
The way work is held in the vise often makes the difference be-
tween success and failure. Small surfaces are easily planed true if
held almost flush with the jaws of the wise so that the top of the
bench serves to guide the plane; for example, the wheel-center, page
20, or the crank, Plate 33, are easily planed in this manner. Some-
times articles, like spools, can be held endwise with safety when they
might be crushed if squeezed sidewise.
A good way to hold the paddles of the sand wheel, Plate 21, Fig.
4, to saw the lines A B is to put the paddles about half-way down the
end of the wise so that the back-saw can be held near the end of the
vise jaws.
The bench-hook is the best device for holding a great deal of
Small work for sawing and for planing sides, corners, and ends.
When planing ends, to avoid splitting the far corner, another piece
of equal thickness may be put behind the first. The better way,
however, is never to plane over the far corner, but turn the work and
plane always towards the center; in other words, plane half way
from each edge. Where a corner can be whittled off to form a but-
tress, there is practically no danger of splitting that corner. For
planing thin boards, see page 19.
INTRODUCTION, .. 13
DIRECTIONS FOR PLANING.
1. Plane one broad surface. Test it crosswise, lengthwise, and
cornerwise. This surface is called the working-face, and should be
marked with a pencil line near the edge to be planed next. On a
short board the cornerwise test can be made with a straight-edge; on
a long board winding-sticks are needed. These are straight sticks
with parallel edges. Near the ends of the board, stand them on edge
across the board. With the eye some distance away, sight from one
stick to the other, if one end of the farther stick seems elevated, that
corner of the board must be planed more.
2. Plane one edge. Test it crosswise with the trysquare on the
working-face, and lengthwise with a straight-edge. This is called
the working-edge. Mark it with two pencil lines, drawn near the
line on the working-face.
These two surfaces are of great importance. From them all
measurements are made and all tests applied. The trysquare and the
gage should always be kept on one of these two surfaces.
3. Square the ends. With the trysquare, test them from both the
working-face and the working-edge.
4. Gage the width from the working-edge. Plane to the line.
With the trysquare on the working-face, test this edge.
5. Gage the thickness from the working-face. Plane to the line.
Sometimes, of course, the above order needs to be changed. It
is well to think out the best order of work.
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PROBLEMs
PLATES AND WORKING DIRECTIONS
16 MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
DART-PLATE 1.
A dart like the first one shown on Plate 1 will stick into a soft
wooden target. Two or more boys, each with three darts, might have
a contest in making the highest score. Number three rings of a tar-
get 5, 10, and 15, and the bull’s eye 25.
The dart consists of two parts, a round stick and a paper rudder.
To make the round stick, 7” long j4" diameter, it will be well to
start with a stick about 9" long so as to be able to hold it easily while
planing it round. First plane the stick square, 94", and straight.
To plane such a small stick straight, it should be laid on the top of
the bench. While planing it, test it frequently by looking at it end-
wise. When it is the right size, grasp one end with the left hand,
lay it on the bench with the forefinger touching the bench, and, with
a small plane, plane away the corners so as to make a true octagonal
(eight sided) stick. Next make it sixteen sided, taking very fine
shavings, then sandpaper it well. Saw off the extra length, leaving
the best part of the stick 7" long. &
Bind one end with fine (screen) wire. To bind it well, make a
square corner 1" from one end of the wire and lay this 1" lengthwise
the stick. Hold it firmly with the left thumb while winding the long
part of the wire smoothly around the stick and wire. Twist the two
ends together, and cut off what is not needed. Gently pound down
smooth the end of the wire that is left.
In this end of the stick, drill a hole for a 1" brad. File the head
entirely off, and drive the brad in backwards, leaving 3/16" out; then
file the point real sharp. Carefully split the other end of the stick
1". To do this, stand it upright in the vise, place a knife on the end,
and tap the knife with a hammer. Into this split, insert the paper
rudder bent as shown in Plate 1. The rudder should be cut the
shape and size shown in the working drawing and then bent into
shape.
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18 MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
SPOOL DART-PLATE 1.
An easier dart to throw can be made of a spool as shown on Plate
1. Three feathers which curve the same way will give the dart a
whirling motion when it is thrown.
Make a stick about 7” long to fit tightly into the hole of a spool
about 1” in diameter at its end. (See Dowels, page 11, also Glue,
page 10.) A stick like this can be forced into a hole quite far by
screwing it around, but if it is driven much with a hammer the
spool will split easily. After the stick is glued into the spool, hold
the spool upright on the jaws of the vise, and squeeze the stick
extending below; then with the back-saw make four slanting cuts to
sharpen the spool. File a 2%" nail square off, 1" long; drive it
backwards into a suitable hole drilled for it in the center of the
spool; and sharpen it well with a file. One-half inch from the other
end of the spool saw the stick off, and drill three holes in the spool
end, into which glue three feathers about 4" long.
MANUAL TRAINING TOYS. 19
DART FOR WHIP-BOW. PLATE 1.
This dart is best made of a shingle. Lacking that, plane a 9%"
board thin” at one end to 9%". Draw the center line lengthwise and
lay out the shape of the dart with the broad part at the thin end.
Saw crosswise from each edge of the shingle to the place where the
curve begins, then lengthwise to that point. Holding the thin end
in the wise, pare the curves with a knife, spokeshave, or draw-knife.
Make the point at each end with a plane. To plane to slanting lines
such as these, it is very important to place the work in the vise at
such a slant that the line is parallel with the top of the bench and
quite close to the jaws of the vise. Find the point where the dart
balances by testing it on the finger, and make the little notch for the
string, using a back-saw first, then a knife.
A whip-bow consists of a string 20" long tied to the end of a
stick 20" long. A knot is tied at the free end of the string. To
throw the dart, catch the string in the notch, hold the wide end of
the dart in the left hand and the stick in the right, throw the right
hand forward, and let the dart fly from the string.
*To hold a board while planing it very thin, fasten it to another flat
board with four wooden pegs.
For several of the models in this book, a flat board about 9"x4"x7g”
with a cleat nailed to one end and extending 96" above its upper surface
will be found most convenient for holding thin boards while planing. If
the cleat is a little wider than the height of the block dri the bench-hook,
the bench-hook serves well to hold it.
20 MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
BUZZER—PLATE 2.
The buzzer consists of a wheel and two handles, connected with
string. To make the wheel draw a 3" circle on a piece of wood 3/16"
thick. Draw a line thru the center the way the grain goes and
another at right angles to it, thus dividing the circle into quarters,
Fig. 1. Notice, now, that to avoid splitting the circle, the four quar-
ters must each be cut in a different direction. Lay the model flat
on the bench-hook and saw off the corners of the square. Now, hold-
ing it in the vise with one quarter up, with the
spokeshave, pare the corners in the direction of the
arrow in this quarter until the circle is reached.
Be careful not to pare away any part of the line.
It will be observed that paring can be done safely
on the end grain beyond the arrow-head in this
Fig. 1 quarter, but this is not at all possible on the
side grain where the arrow begins. The spokeshave should be held
rather lightly so as to allow it to follow the curve. Observing care-
fully the direction of the arrows, proceed with the other quarters in
this same manner. The last few chips should be very fine ones. Drill
two small holes for the string 34" each side of the center. Sandpaper
the model nicely. (See Sandpaper, page 11.)
The two handles can be planed best if held in the bench-hook and
the plane turned with its side on the top of the bench. After the
corners are planed in this way, the ends can be planed without dan-
ger of splitting. Drill the holes for the string. The edges and ends
of the handles will look better not sandpapered.
String the model by passing one end of a 3 ft. string thru a hole
in one handle, then in the wheel, then in the other handle, then back
thru the other holes, tying it to the other end of the string. To make
it go, take one handle in each hand, swing the wheel over and over,
and gently pull the handles apart for an instant. A little practice may
be necessary to make it go well. To make it buzz louder, bore two
5/16" holes on opposite parts of the wheel 94" from the rim. (See
Bits, page 9.) To avoid splitting, bore backwards till the bit marks a
deep circle in the wood.

MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
21
BUZZ E R
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WHEEL | 3 D1AM. is
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PLATE 2

22 MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
FLYING TOP-PLATE 3.
Like anything that flies, this top should be made as light as
possible. Bass, cotton-wood, or soft pine are good woods to use.
After the wood for the top is planed to size, a 3/16" hole should be
bored straight thru the center. (See Bits, page 9.) Make the draw-
ing on the top and whittle to line. Considerable care must be taken
in whittling not to whittle away the two corners which should be
saved; this is especially true if the grain is not straight. See page
16 for suggestions about making the handle. Glue the handle in
the top. To make it fly, hold it between the two hands, and push the
right one quickly. (See Plate 3.)
FLYING Top–ſ.See Page 23)

MANUAL TRAINING TOYS;
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24 MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
FLYING TOP–PLATE 4.
This form of flying top requires accurate work to make a good
joint. (See Directions for Planing, page 13.) After planing the
two vanes to size, the joint must be laid out with knife and gage
lines and cut out with back-saw and chisel. Two important facts
should be learned: The length of one notch equals the width of the
other piece; the lines marking the depth of the notches must be
gaged from the working-face of each piece. After the joint is laid
out, hold the work in the bench-hook while sawing the depth of the
notch, and be sure to saw in the notch, not outside the line. With a
chisel held flat side down, pare between the saw cuts from each side
of the wood towards the middle. When the joint is fitted, lay out
the curves on each arm of the wheel, remembering that it is always
the front corner of the right-hand arm, as the wheel turns around,
that is to be whittled away. When all these curves are drawn, take
the joint apart, and whittle to the lines. Glue the joint next, and
bore a 3/16" hole straight thru its center. Make the axle of hard
wood. (See page 16 and Dowels, page 11.) Perhaps a skewer can
be used. - k
After the handle is planed to size, draw pencil lines 94" from each
edge for the chamfers. The curve of the chamfer may be drawn
freehand. It should end 1 1/16" from one end of the handle. A good
chamfer is flat crosswise. If the grain of the wood is straight, the
chamfers can be whittled easily; if it is crooked watch that it does not
split over the line. After the chamfers are made, pare another one
%" wide around the end of the handle. After the two blocks are
planed, bore a 34" hole %" from one end. Glue and nail them 1" on
the handle.
FLYING TOP
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PLATE 4
§



26 MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
*
TOP–PLATE 5.
A variety of sizes, shapes and colors of tops, spinning on a plate,
is a lively sight. The one suggested is perhaps as large as it should be
made for such sport. Smaller ones are easily made of spools without
making a disk, or wheel, for them. The more slender the spindle is,
the faster one can spin the top. First make a stick about 6" long to
fit the hole in the spool. Plane 1" of it tapering as small as %",
then glue the spool on 1%" below this small end. Now hold the
spool in the wise endwise, and make, with the back-saw, a saw, cut
half thru the spool on the same slant as the slanting part of the
spool; then saw straight down to the end of this slanting cut. Turn
the spool nearly over and repeat this operation; then saw it com-
pletely off, and whittle the spool to a good point.
Draw a 2" circle on a piece of wood 94" thick. Draw other circles
just as desired for coloring. Observe the directions on page 20 for
making a wheel. When the wheel is round, bore a 5/16" hole in its
center, Sandpaper it, and glue it in place on the spool and spindle.
It can be colored with crayons or water colors.
IMANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
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PLATE 5

28 MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
TOM-TOM DRUM-PLATE 6.
As in a violin, the sounding qualities of this drum depend upon
the quality of the wood used and the thickness of the sounding-board.
Spruce is a good wood to use, though, the drum-stick may well be
harder.
A good way to make two pieces the same length and thickness is
to plane one piece, which is wider than the two pieces combined, to
the right length and thickness, and then saw it in two lengthwise;
So, to make the top and between pieces it will be best to start with
one piece about 6"x7%"x5/16”. If no wood W3" thick for the sounding-
boards is at hand, plane a thicker piece nicely on all surfaces
3"x2"x5/16". Then gage a line 96" from each broad surface all
around the piece and saw between these lines. To plane these two
pieces, lay them on the board described in the foot-note on page 19.
Glue and nail the parts together with very small brads, or pins
cut off Ż". Allow the glue to dry six to ten hours before twisting
the drumstick in the strings. Cut a small notch near the ends of
the top pieces in which to wind two or three strands of string. Twist
the drumstick in the opposite way from which it should strike the
Sounding-board. To play it, hold it in the left hand, and let the
fingers of the right hand slide over the end of the drum-stick, thus
making the drum-stick strike the sounding-board.
TO M-TO M DRUM
Wł DE THICK
TOF FIECES
BETWEEN PIECES
SOUNDING-BOARDS
i
|DR U M STICK
PLATE 6
§


30 MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
POP-GUN–PLATE 7.
The part of this model difficult to make is a nice, smooth hole.
The surest way is to start with a thick piece of wood for the barrel,
6"x1%”x1%". Draw a 7%" circle on one end; then bore the 7/16"
hole as straight as possible, starting at the center of the circle. Stop
boring as soon as the spur of the bit pricks thru the other end, and
draw another 7%" circle, setting the needle-point of the compass in
the tiny hole made by the spur; then finish boring. Next plane the
piece round the size of the circles. The ramrod should be made as
directed on page 16. The hole should now be sandpapered by wrap-
ping a long, narrow piece of Sandpaper Snugly about the ramrod,
and tying it securely at each end with string. Make the handle, be-
ing careful to bore the hole straight 1" deep, and glue the ramrod
into it.
Cut off 3%" of that part of a cork which fits tightly in the barrel.
Drive a slender nail or brad thru a piece of hard leather (or zinc
or copper) and trim it round 34" diameter. Drill a small hole ex-
actly in the center of the end of the ramrod, then drive the nail thru
the center of the cork and into the ramrod.
To make the hole in the barrel still better, let a few drippings
from a candle fall into it and quickly insert the ramrod and push it
back and forth rapidly. A sudden push of the ramrod will blow the
other cork out with a loud pop. To keep this cork, tie one end of a
string around it and the other end around the barrel.
31
MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
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32 MANUAL TRAINING Toys.
3
WHISTLE-PLATE 7.
The size of the chamber, of the notch, of the inlet for air, the
force with which air is blown in, these are some of the conditions
which affect the tone of a whistle.
Plane a piece of close-grained wood 6'x34"x34". This length is
suggested so that two trials at boring can be made. Bore a #4" hole
2%" deep. To help in boring this straight, clamp a straight-edge
(the ruler may do) in the wise together with the square stick. Have
one edge of the straight-edge on the center of one side of the stick.
After boring a straight hole, draw pencil lines 3/16" from the long
edges on all four sides. A good way to draw such lines is to rest the
middle finger-nail on a side of the stick as a guide and hold the
pencil closely over this nail while sliding it along. The hand must
be held rather rigid. Practice will enable one to draw lines quite ac-
curately this way. Place the stick in the wise so that one edge is
straight up, and plane the corner off to the line. Plane all four cor-
ners So as to make a good octagonal stick. Make a dowel (see page
11) about 1%" long to fit nicely in the hole. Do not crowd it so
hard as to split the whistle. It might well be fitted first in a 9%"
hole bored in a waste piece of wood. Plane off a side of this dowel
till a flat place is made 3%" wide. Push the dowel into the whistle
and saw the straight end of the notch about 3/16” deep. Pare the
rest of the notch with knife or chisel, testing the whistle by blowing
it occasionally as the paring proceeds. When it sounds best, glue the
dowel in place and allow it to dry before sawing it off and cutting
the slanting part. When this is done saw the whistle to a length of
2%". If a rolling sound is desired, put in a pea before gluing the
dowel in place. , ‘
MANUAL TRAINING TOYS. 33
ARROW–PLATE 8.
The old saying, “Straight as an arrow,” suggests an arrow's most
important quality: it must be straight. Saw a strip 20"x}%" from
the edge of a straight-grained spruce board and plane it according to
directions on page 16. To make the notch for the bow-string, first
file, a notch in the smaller end, then saw it 3/4" deep, and smooth it
with the folded edge of a piece of Sandpaper. Bind the larger end
tightly with rather small, soft wire. (See page 16.) Pigeon feath-
ers are easiest to use because the quills are soft and straight. Turkey
and goose feathers are good, and hen feathers will do if they
are nearly straight. The quill should be split with the point of a
Small, sharp knife, the feather being held on a cutting board. About
3" of quill are needed. With scissors, trim the feather about 5/16”,
wide; then glue and pin it in place 1%" from the smaller end of the
arrow. Indians use three feathers, but two will do for a boy. When
the feathers are in place, the ends of the quills must be bound very
Smoothly and tightly with thread. Notice the position of the feathers
in Plate 8: the bottom feather on the arrow having three feathers is
called the cock-feather and should be of a different color from the
other two. It is always placed on the bowstring away from the bow.
34 MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
BOW–PLATE 8.
Almost any tough stick that will bend to a good curve will answer
for a bow, but white ash such as is used in hoe- and rake-handles is
probably best and easiest to get. A brittle wood like hemlock can be
used, if used with great care; indeed, some Eskimos, who can get
only dry, brittle driftwood, still make a splendid bow by wrapping it
completely with sinew. The bow should be shorter than the archer.
Plane each end tapering, first on the bottom, then on the two edges.
Leave 6" in the middle straight for a handle. Notice the shape,
VIN
º º
Nº
&T T. 5.
Pºº-ººm's
ſº
ºº:
º
Nº wº
Timber-hitch knot Fig. 2 Bowline—knot
Plate 8, of the three steps in the planing of the bow. Be especially
careful to get the second step right, then the third will come easily.
File notches near each end somewhat the shape of the loop on the
bowstring. Before the bow can be finished, it must be strung and
pulled a little to test it, to see if both ends bend the same good
curve, not the curve of a circle, but that of the broad side of an
ellipse. The ends should curve more than the middle. When it bends
true, smooth it well with a coarse file, or glass, and sandpaper. Do
not be tempted to pull the bow too far and so break it; one that bends
easily is less apt to break than one that is too strong. When the bow
is strung, the center of it and of the bowstring should be marked with
thread or color.
A piece of strong fish-line makes a good bowstring. A good one
can be made of linen thread on the string machine shown on Plate 34.
Tie knots as shown in Fig. 2. The timber-hitch should be kept
in place on the bow, and the bowline-knot slipped back on the bow
when it is unstrung. The best way to string a bow is to place the end
having the timber-hitch on the ground against one's left foot, then to
pull the middle of the bow with the left hand, and to push the upper
part with the right hand, allowing this hand to slide upward so as
to shove the bowline-knot into the upper notch. When finished the
bow can be improved by rubbing it well with grease.




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STEPS IN SHAPING BOW
PLATE 8
§



36 MANUAL TRAINING Toys.
SWORD–PLATE 9.
Plane the blade to size, then draw a center line on each side, and
lay out the curves for the point and handle. Shape these ends with
the draw-knife, spokeshave, or block-plane. Now measure 5" for the
handle, and draw a line along the center of each edge to mark the
cutting edges of the sword. A workman would do this with his pen-
cil resting over his finger-nail as mentioned on page 32. Use the
spokeshave to pare off the four corners (to sharpen the sword), and
finish them with a plane. Try to take broad, flat chips so as to make
the blade a good diamond shape. Where the blade and handle meet
a good Square shoulder must be made. A boy can do this best, per-
haps, with a wide, flat file, though a workman would use a back-saw
and chisel. * *
Saw out the guard 5"x8"x}4"; then draw the diamond 1%" long
and 9%" wide. It is not easy for a boy to cut this out, so be careful
and guard against splitting the board. First drill small holes at each
end of the diamond, then bore other holes as large as will go within
the diamond, Plate 9. With a thin chisel pare straight thru the
board onto a cutting board. When the diamond will fit the blade,
draw the shape of the guard freehand and pare the edges as explained
for the buzzer on page 20. Sandpaper both parts of the sword, and
fasten the guard with glue and two 2" brads, driven from each edge
of the guard in holes drilled for the purpose.
37
MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
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38 MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
MAGIC BOX—PLATE 10.
This is truly a magic box to those who do not understand how it
works. Who would ever think that these little bits of people would
hop up and down inside their house just because their window was
rubbed with a piece of leather? Try it and see how excited they get.
If the worker can cut glass, make the box first, otherwise he must
get a piece of glass 5%"x3" and build the box to fit it. It requires
careful work to make a good box, so be sure that all ends and edges
are square and that corresponding parts are the same size before nail-
ing it together. Plane all such small boards in the bench-hook. Make
the ends first 1" wide and as long as the glass is wide. Make the
sides the same width and as long as the glass, plus the thickness of
the two ends. Glue and nail these to the ends, keeping the bottom
edges flush. Set all nails with a nail-set.
One edge and one end only of the bottom should now be planed
square, the other edge and end being left to plane after the bottom is
nailed in place. Cut a piece of tin 1/16" smaller than the glass, or
glue some tinfoil on the inside of the bottom. If tinfoil is to be used,
smooth it on a piece of paper carefully with the fingers; then spread
some glue thinly over the bottom, and lay the tinfoil on it. The
squared edge and end of the bottom are to be nailed first, having
them fit nicely; then the other edge and end. Never drive a nail
too near the corner of the bottom lest it strike the nails driven
thru the sides of the box. Now plane the end and then the side of
the bottom to fit. If tin is used instead of tinfoil put it inside the
box after the bottom has been nailed in place. Make the two sup-
ports fit inside the box lengthwise and just wide enough to hold the
top of the glass flush with the top edges of the box. To hold the sup-
ports, drive nails thru the ends of the box into them.
Everything about electrical apparatus should be clean and dry, so,
as this is really an electric box, have the glass and tin clean before
using it. Put some bits of charcoal, paper, straw, or sawdust into
the box, have it warm and dry, rub the glass with a piece of leather
(glove, shoe), and then see how the little people jump! The ex-
MAGIC BOX
LONG WIDE THICK
2 | ENDS 3 || |
2 |S| DE5 6 || | | :
| | Bottom | 6 |3} | {
2|SUPPORTS |5% |#4 #
| | GLASS 5 # 3
| | TI N 5 # 3
PEN CAL B
*
OX
PLATE 10
§



40 MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
planation is as follows: Rubbing glass with leather, fur, woolen, or
silk generates electricity; this electricity attracts non-electrified
bodies, thus lifting the little people to the glass; as soon as they be-
come charged with the electricity on the glass, they are repelled and
thrown down to the tin; the tin conducts their charge of electricity
away, and they are ready to begin their circus over again.
MANUAL TRAINING TOYS. 41
PENCIL-BOX—PLATE 10.
To make this box, saw out one long piece for the sides and ends,
22"x1%"x}4", or two shorter pieces, 12"x1%"x}4". The reason for
having them so long is because it is difficult to make the groove nicely
to the end of the board; and they are wide enough to try twice to
make the groove.
File a nail (about 3/32" in diameter) sharp like a chisel, and
drive it tightly into a small hole, drilled in a block of wood which
has one corner rabbeted, that is, sawed away as shown in Fig. 3. The
outside of the nail, measured from the shoulder of the rabbet, must
be exactly 34" away, so that the lower edge of the groove will be
%" from the top of the box. Practice with this tool till a good groove
can be made in waste lumber, then make the groove along one edge
of the board. When well done, plane the board 1%" wide, and saw
it to the proper lengths for sides and ends. In the front end there
is no groove, so plane it away from one piece just sawed: Sandpaper
the flat sides before gluing and nailing them together. Prepare the
bottom as directed for the magic box, page 38, then sandpaper, glue
and nail it in place. Set all nails. Plane the bottom to fit. Pre-
pare the cover somewhat too long but exactly the width between the
grooves. As in making the whistle, page 32, so here draw pencil
lines for the bevel 3%" wide on the cover. Practice planing a bevel
on waste wood first. The bevel at the further end of the cover can be
planed by holding the cover upright in the wise. When it slides
Smoothly in the grooves, saw it the right length. For the notch, make
a deep cut with a gouge, and cut the chip straight across with knife
point or small chisel. Hold it in the bench-hook while doing this.

42 MANUAL TRAINING TOYS,
TELEPHONE–PLATE, 11.
In these days when even boys are using wireless telegraphy, this
may seem a humble telephone, but it is a surprisingly good one, and
it is very easily made and operated. The drum should be hard and
tight, the string should be a small, hard cord (tho the common pink
cord thoroly waxed with paraffin will do), and the cord should be
supported by nothing but the drums when the telephone is being used.
After preparing the eight sides, observe in Plate 11, the method of
nailing four boards of equal width together to form a square, each
one is nailed to another one. The ends of the boxes should be well
rounded with sandpaper before the drum is stretched over them.
The best material for the drum is rawhide,-the dried skin of an
animal. The skin of a small animal like the cat, rabbit, or wood-
chuck is best. Country boys will not have much difficulty in secur-
ing such rawhide, but city boys may. To remove the hair, or fur,
from a skin, slack a lump of lime as large as a hen's egg in a basin
of water and soak the skin in it until the hair can be pulled off read-
ily (usually a few minutes); then thoroly wash the skin, stretch it
over one end of a box, and tack it every 3%" with 2 oz. tacks. When
thoroly dry it will be “tight as a drum” and ready to use. A good
drum can also be made of an old (dressed) kid glove or shoe. Soak
a piece 4" sq. in water a few minutes then stretch it while still wet,
tightly over the box. When dry, coat it on both sides with melted
paraffin. Fasten the cord to the drum simply by a knot on the in-
side. If common pink cord is used, drive the paraffin in with a hot
flat-iron.
To use the telephone, a boy at each end of the line holds his box
So that the string will not touch anything, then one talks into his
box while the other listens in his. The telephone may be stretched
from one house to another if the houses are within several hundred
feet of each other and have a free space between. If two telephones
were provided, a person could talk and listen at the same time.
MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
43
TELEPH ONE

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PLATE 11
44 MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
HAPPY JACK WINDMILL.-PLATE 12.
On a windy day “Happy Jack” will be a whole circus out on the
clothes-line post. If he can be painted in bright colors so much the
better, otherwise he should be decorated with colored pencils.
The body is drawn on a board, 9"x2"x}%", by measuring all the
figures from the hat down, and at these points drawing lines square
across the board; also, draw a center-line from head to heel. The
toes and hat rim split easily, so be careful of these parts. If no
Scroll-saw is at hand, saw every 3%" with the back-saw straight across
from the edge of the board to the outline of the body; then pare these
little pieces away with a knife or chisel. The curves at the neck are
best made with a No. 6 bit before sawing. The curves may be fin-
ished with half-round file or sandpaper. Take great care in boring
the hole up the legs and across the shoulders; if a hole is started
crooked, glue in a dowel of the same wood (see Dowels, page 11),
let it dry, and then try again. Use a straight-edge as a guide, as
for the whistle, page 32. A No. 3 bit is used thru the shoulders,
and a No. 4 bit up the legs. To make the arms, use a 9%" hard wood
dowel 6" long. Bore 34” holes for the vanes 94" each side the center
of the dowel and file the wrists, before sawing it in two. Round the
ends some with sandpaper. Flatten the 4” wire which goes thru the
shoulders enough to keep it from turning in the arms. Drill holes
in the arms to hold the wire firmly. To plane the vanes thin at the
broad end, use the board mentioned at the bottom of page 19. When
gluing and nailing the vanes in the arms, remember that one lies flat
and the other nearly edgewise; also remember to make them bal-
ance. Bore a 3/16" hole in the center of the base and glue the dowel
into it. Before trying to fasten “Happy Jack” to a post, drill holes
in the base for nails or screws.
MANUAL TRAINING TOYS. 45
h APPY JACK Wl N D M | LL
r-
f
Le-SE=
PLATE 12

46 MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
GLOUCESTER “HAPPY JACK’’ WINDMILL–PLATE 13.
This “Happy Jack” is the kind which is common along the coast
of New England. He is often painted with blue and white uniform
and black shoes, while the paddles are left unpainted.
The drawing is made on squares so that it may be enlarged easily
to any size. Keep the same number of squares but make them any
size desired; 34" is a good size. The hat, being made separate from
the body, should not be drawn on the same board.
To make the hat without a lathe, make two wheels of soft wood,
round one edge of the larger, and glue and nail the smaller one on
it. Saw the head slanting to make a flat place for the hat, as shown
in side view of hat, Plate 13. The space between the legs should be
cut out with a turning or key-hole saw, tho it can be worked out as
the diamond in the sword guard, Plate 9. The “Happy Jack” should
be mounted on a large wire rod. -
IMANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
GLOU CESTER
HAPPY JACK WIND MILL
51 to E v. Ew
OF
H A T
TR P of Tin
& E TWEEN H E E L S
-*
PLATE 13





48 MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
PADDLING INDIAN WINDMILL–PLATE 14.
Make this windmill any dimension desired, using the same num-
ber of squares in drawing to keep the proportions. The stern of the
canoe should be planed thin enough so that the completed windmill
will nearly or quite balance on the upright wire rod. The arms
should be made like those on the “Happy Jack,” and as long as from
the center of the shoulder to the topmost feather. If the canoe is
not too wide, the Indian can be nailed in place by two nails as shown
in Plate 14, otherwise drive smaller ones slanting thru the back into
the canoe; drill holes in either case. After the hole is bored thru
the shoulders, use a trysquare to tell where to start the hole up thru
the canoe so that it shall come in front of the former.

49
MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
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50 MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
RITE–PLATE 15.
Kite flying is such fascinating sport that the three typical kites
here given will make one want to build others, larger and of differ-
ent shapes.* Kites have been made large enough to carry a man high
in the air. The adjustments of a kite are so subtle that much
patience is sometimes needed to make it fly. That is why the rather
elaborate bridle is suggested for the paper covered kite with tail. It
will require a little longer stay in the workshop, but it will save time
outdoors.
To make the spine and crosspiece, saw a 94" strip from the edge
of a 7%"straight-grained spruce board 3 ft. long; then saw this strip
again lengthwise, and plane the two pieces 3 ft.x3%"x}4". Mark the
center of the crosspiece and a point 8" from the top of the spine, and
plane each end tapering thinner to 3/16". In each end saw a slot
3/16" deep, Plate 15. Glue and bind securely the middle of the
crosspiece to the 8” point on the spine. Notice that the last few
strands go around the others. Test the sticks to see that they are
square with each other. This can be done by measuring from one
end of the spine to each end of the crosspiece. Put a cord that will
not stretch around the ends of the sticks, in the slots, and tie it
tightly. Bind this cord into each slot in such a manner that it will
not slip, and at the same time wind the sticks so that they will not
split beyond the slot. While doing this, one must measure again
from each end of the spine to the ends of the crosspiece so that the
two halves of the kite will be equal.
Cover the kite with strong, light paper. Glue the paper to the
sticks, and fold it over the string 94". Try to have the string lay
in the crease of the fold. Strengthen the corners with another piece
of paper, 2" wide. -
To make an adjustable bridle, wind a cord twice around the spine
near its top and tie it tightly on the front side, keeping the knot in
the middle. Little holes will, of course, have to be made in the paper.
*Many suggestions are found in “The Construction and Flying of
Kites” by Charles M. Miller, price 20 cents, Manual Arts Press, Peoria, I11.
PAPER TO BE
PUT ON BEFORE
BRIDLE ſº TiED
Cºº
2% line-Knor
HA LF - HITCH
Bºº
*: Sa UARE KNOT
TW15TED
T WISTINO STR IMG
PLATE 15
E.















52 MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
Cut the cord about 2" long and tie bowline-knot, Fig. 2, p. 34.
Measure on the crosspiece 10" from the center, and down the spine
12" from the crosspiece, and tie three more such knots. Double.
two cords, about 40” long, and tie them in one big knot, called
the flying-knot, to make a loop about 1" long to which to fasten
the anchor line. Mark a point on the spine 10" below the cross-
piece. Hold the flying-knot here, and fasten two cords to the loops
on the crosspiece with two or three half-hitches, Plate 15. Now
bring the flying-knot 2" above the crosspiece and out from the kite
far enough to make these two cords taut. Fasten another cord to the
loop at the upper part of the spine. Adjust the remaining cord as
taut as the others. -
A flat kite like this always needs a tail, and the most bothersome
tail ever made is that familiar kind made of paper and string. To
make a convenient, serviceable, and easily-made tail use strips, 3"
wide, of bunting; cheese-cloth, or any soft, light cloth.
In a high wind a longer tail is needed than in a light wind. If
the kite seems too unsteady, pull it down, and try to adjust the bridle
or the tail, before an accident occurs. If the kite dives, let go the
string just before the kite reaches the ground so that it will not
strike the ground with force enough to smash the kite. When let-
ting out string rapidly, always protect the hand with a cloth or glove
lest the string cut thru the skin. If in doubt about the strength of
the anchor-line, two boys can very quickly test it 100 ft. or so at a
time as it is being let out; one does not want the string to break
when the kite is high in the air. }
MANUAL TRAINING TOYS. 53
*
TAILLESS ICITE–PLATE 15.
If one has to fly a kite amid many obstructions of trees, wires,
and houses, one will appreciate the advantage of a tailless kite. Such
a kite has to be more accurately made, however, and should be cov-
ered with cloth.
When making the bow, file notches near the slot at each end
in the same manner as for the bow, Plate 8, in which the twisting
string will be fastened later. Lash the middle of the bow to a point
7" from the top of the spine. In the slots, put the cord which
goes around the kite, measuring carefully to keep the two sides the
same size. Sew a piece of colored cambric over the kite. Tie the
middle of a strong cord 6% feet long to the filed notch at one end
of the bow with three half-hitches, as shown in Plate 15. Pass one
part of this cord around the other notch, and fasten it in the same
manner; then tie the two ends together with a square knot. Make
the dowel for twisting the two cords on the back of the bow so as
to bend the bow as desired. Into one end of the dowel drive a small
brad and file it sharp. How much to bend the bow can be determined
only by trying the kite. As the bow bends, the cloth becomes looser,
and it is this looseness of the cloth which so holds the wind that the
kite will fly without a tail. After twisting the cords enough, slip
them towards the end of the dowel away from the spur, and rest the
spur in the back of the spine. - *
Tie a string around both the top and the bottom ends of the
spine for the bridle. The flying-knot should come as far as the end
of the bow; or, some tie the lower end of the bridle about 14" from
the lower end of the spine, and make the flying-knot about 9” in
front and 2" above the bow.
54 MANUAL TRAINING TOYS,
I
t BOX KITE–PLATE 15.
In a gale too strong for other kites, a box kite will fly safely. The
bridle is very easy to adjust, and the kite, tho somewhat more elab-
orate than the others, is not difficult to make. Thin sticks like these
can be sawed from the edge of a straight-grained board. An easy
way to make the notches in the ends of the braces is to clamp them
all in the wise at once, flat surfaces together, and then saw them out
with a back-saw. This method presupposes that the uprights are
all planed the same thickness. If they are unequal in thickness, saw
the notches as wide as the thinnest upright and pare the others each
to fit its proper upright. In any construction like this, which has a
number of parts fitting together, it is well to number the adjacent
parts so that they may be put together again, each in its place. Init-
tle nicks are cut with a knife on the four edges of the braces where
the lashing is to be wound. When all the sticks are fitted together,
glue the braces to the uprights 43%" from the ends; two frames
are thus made just alike. The lashing is done with large thread.
Start it with two turns around the brace, then once around the up-
right, then once around the brace, then again around the upright,
and so continue. The last few turns should be around the brace.
See that the thread goes from the brace to the upright in the way
most favorable for holding. When all the lashing is done, measure
the center of each brace. Put one frame thru the other, and drive a
pin thru the two centers. Now the frames must be brought to a
14%" Square by means of strong thread. Near the top of one
upright tie a 6 ft. thread, leaving a short end. Simply wind the
long end twice around each upright, and tie the end with a bow-knot
until all sides of the square can be measured and adjusted. When
all sides are equal, make the bow-knot into a square knot. Wind
Some thread around each upright, except the first, in such a manner
as to hold the long thread securely. Now adjust the other end of the
kite in the same way. Measure 834" from the ends of each up-
right and put other threads around the square. These can be fast-
ened at each upright after the first by three half-hitches.
\
MANUAL TRAINING TOYS. 55
The kite may be covered either with cloth or paper. If cloth is
used, the edges should be hemmed. If paper, lay it on the floor, put
glue on each upright, then press the paper to one upright. Wrap the
paper around the kite and wind string around it several times to hold
it while adjusting and pressing each corner. Glue the ends of the
paper next, pulling them as tight as possible. Two flat-irons will hold
the ends while drying. After the paper is on, its edges should be
strengthened with a narrow ribbon of cloth glued to it.
Tie the bridle strings just above and below the upper cell and
have the flying-knot 5" in front of the end of the brace.
Box Kite AND KITE-Str ING REEL

56 MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
IQITE-STRING SAILBOAT—PLATE 16.
To send messages up to his kite, many a boy has made a hole in
a piece of paper and watched that go sailing up his anchor line. This
sailboat will do that, and other things too, and come spinning down
again to take another message. A parachute, made of a paper nap-
kin, having a 12" thread running to each corner and a nail for
ballast tied where the four threads are knotted together, can be sent
up by this messenger, released, and allowed to float down from a
great height. Paper gliders sent up this way will do many “stunts”
before they reach ground. Fold a flimsy paper napkin in such a
way as to hold a bunch of confetti with a pin thru only three or four
thicknesses of the napkin. This can be tied to the keel and the
pin withdrawn by the release and fall of a nail, and, behold, a shower
of confetti! Be sure the falling nail will do no injury where it
strikes. (See Frontispiece.)
A light, frail model like this will require considerable time and
patience to make and adjust so that it will work. Make the hull and
posts from a stick about 13" long. Bore the 3/16" holes for the
mast and keel, the former a little to the left (port, a sailor would
say) of the center and 2%" from the bow, the latter in the cen-
ter 2" from the stern. Make the wheels of the ends of spools by
Sawing them off just where the straight portion begins, and glue-
ing them together on a hard dowel. Very accurately find their cen-
ters and drill holes for 1" brads which form their axles. Drive
these into the post so that the wheels run very freely. Do not nail
the posts to the hull till the wire parts have been put in place. Make
three staples of pins and drive them in the bottom of the hull so that
a fine wire will just slide thru them, easily. Three are used so that
the wire will always be held straight. Next make the two eyes which
hold the kite-string under the wheels. Coiled around once and a
half, the coils must be separated enough to allow the string to slip
between. The safety of the model, swinging violently high in the
air, depends upon these eyes. They can be driven thru small, tight
holes and bent on the under side to make them secure. They must
be just high enough to allow the string to run free. The forward
MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
K! TE-STR N G SAIL BOAT
—a
wVI RE SYOP Te PREVENT
sooms Fnom swinging
Backward and so loosing
|MAIN- SHEETS FROM TR 66BR
z s
SHOW ING METHOD OF
Swimelive Boo MS
- SHOWING
SHOWING STAPLES AND END OF TRIGGE R.
COILED LEA 0 Fi NE WI RE TR16G, E R on which SWING ING
FOR BALLAST Loo PS of MAIN-SHEETS ARE caughir ON
- 8 RAD
Long lwipelthick
2 | | H U L L 9 || # #
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conk on | | M.A.S.T | | | # Diana.
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2| G A F FS 5 | # ,
| | K E E L 10 # ,
2| WHEELS | # # ,
PLATE 16
















58 - MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
one is elongated because the kite-string slants upward so much.
Bend the 4” wire trigger three times around a brad driven in a
piece of wood for convenience. To handle wire readily for such work
as this, two pliers will be found useful. Saw a notch in the bow
just wide enough for this coil. Now glue and nail the posts in
position. - -
Make the mast, all the spars, in fact, smaller at the outer end.
Rig it completely before gluing the mat in place. Be sure that the
booms will swing over the forward wheel, so as not to interfere with
its easy running. The sails should be of light cloth. The booms
and the gaffs (see Plate 30 for names of parts) must swing freely
on, the mast, so as to fold together when the trigger is released. For
the main-sheets, use thread tied with a long loop to slip over the
fine wire part of the trigger. A cork 1%" in diameter, slit to the
center, can be put on the kite-string far enough from the kite to be
safe from any entangling. On the keel, fasten ballast enough (about
1 oz.) to make the sailboat ride upright.
MANUAL TRAINING TOYS. 59
THE HYGROSCOPE OR WEATHER COTTAGE–PLATE 17.
This model serves to indicate the humidity (dampness) of the
air. It consists of the house, turntable, and figures, the turntable
being suspended on a violin string. The violin string absorbs moist-
ure from the air and untwists, thus causing the man to come out;
when the air become dry the string twists tighter, thus causing the
woman to come out. The model should be placed out doors but not
exposed to rain or Sun. -
The arches of the doorways may be made with a big bit (1%")
or a scroll saw. If a bit is used, bore a hole for the spur first, lest
it split the board. While boring hold the board vertically in the wise.
The portion cut off between the doorways can be sawed with the tip
of the back-saw if the board is laid flat on the bench-hook. The
slanting lines at the top, also, can be sawed while held down on the
bench-hook. After the front, back and sides are made, nail the back
to the sides, but screw the front. When this is done, put the
house in the vise in an upright position and plane the tops of the
sides slanting. Notice that one roof is wider than the other. Nail
the narrower one first, with the grain running from front to back.
Do not drive nails into the front but nail it securely at the back
and side. Letting the plane rest on the other side of the house,
plane the upper edge of this roof slanting, so that the other roof will
fit. Nail this in place; set all nails; and plane the upper edge of
this roof slanting, letting the plane rest on the first roof. Two brads
may now be driven near the center of the ridge-pole to hold the roofs
together. After making the floor, place the house in position on it
(%" from back, W4" from ends) and draw a line around the house.
Remove the house; drive three brads straight down thru the floor;
pull them out and start them from the under side in the same
holes; then put the house in place again and drive the brads home.
Put in more brads to hold the house securely.
To make the chimney, saw a notch 3/16” deep in the end of a
34" square stick. If it fits on the roof, bore a 5/16" hole thru
its center, and saw the chimney off 34" long. Glue it 3%" from
the front end of the roof. When dry, bore the hole thru the roof.
60 - MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
The chimney top with the dowel attached to it below is made to
revolve so that the Hygroscope may be adjusted. To make the chim-
ney top, bore a ¥4" hole into the end of a 9%" dowel; then saw
it off ¥4" and glue in the upper dowel. Make the turntable some-
what round at each end. In the center of it, glue and nail the lower
dowel. Next, paint the house if desired. The violin string is glued
and wedged into holes in the upper and lower dowels so that the
turntable will swing 3/16" above the floor.
The man and woman may be made of cardboard, wood, clay, chalk
or plaster of Paris; or they can be bought at a toy store. Painted in
bright colors and shellacked or warnished, they look well. They can
be made to balance on the turntable by adding a piece of lead. Of
course, neither they nor the turntable should touch any part of the
house as they swing around. -
HY GROS COPE
* WEATHER COT TAGE *
*
tº | DES
wº - º | |LEFT ROOF
| | |RIGHT ROOF
l
i F- ſk --> |MNEY TOp
; J N 4." TABLE
ii : bOWEL | |
: } LOWER DOWEL 2,
-: .# -- STRING | 4
! } | ||
J | |
! | |
ſ | |
t | |
Q ſ | | *
j |
g | |
l I I
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--|--|--
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PLATE 17
E.




62 MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
**
ELECTROPHORUS—PLATE 18.
The electrophorus consists of two parts, a pan filled with a resin-
ous mixture, and a cover which has been completely covered with tin-
foil. Under favorable conditions, a spark of electricity 3%" long
can be obtained from this electrophorus. The favorable conditions
are these: The air should be dry; both parts of the electrophorus
should be warm, dry, and clean; and the tinfoil and rosin should be
perfectly flat, so as to come in close contact with each other.
Make the pan and its sides as shown in Plate 18. Glue and nail
the sides in place and round their upper edges well with sandpaper.
To make the resinous mixture, melt a half teacup of rosin with two
teaspoons of turpentine and about the same of paraffin in a rather
deep dish, and pour the mixture into the pan. As all these materials
are inflammable, perhaps the safest place to melt them is in the oven.
After the pan is cold, test the surface of the rosin to see that it is
flat every way. If it is not flat, sandpaper the high parts slowly with
coarse Sandpaper. • t
..When making the cover, observe the directions on page 20, then
round the edge to a good half-circle. Test the cover also to see that
it is flat, especially on its under side, for to get good sparks, the
tinfoil and rosin must come just as close together as possible. Cut
two circles of tinfoil 4%" in diameter. Smooth them carefully
On a piece of paper, spread glue thinly on the cover, lay the tinfoil
on the glue, and Smooth it with the fingers. Press the edges as smooth
as possible because electricity escapes easily from sharp corners. Cover
the larger open spaces with bits of tinfoil. Hard rubber (ebonite),
being a non-conductor of electrity, makes the best handle. A piece
of an old rubber comb or a fountain pen can be used for this purpose.
To get a spark of electricity, rub the rosin with soft leather,
fur, or woolen; place the cover on it; touch the top of the cover with
the finger (to remove the negative electricity); lift the cover by the
top of the handle; bring the edge of the cover near a finger, or other
conductor, and a spark will fly off with a snap. It is a miniature
flash of lightning. Some books on electricity describe many other
experiments which can be tried.
ELECTROPHORUS -7<+ -R
PA N
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PLAT E 18
#

64 MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
WATERWEIEEL–PLATE, 19.
This waterwheel is designed to be placed in a flowing stream. A
longer trough might well lead the water into this one so as to get
greater speed. -
Make the trough first, being careful to make a good fit where the
sides nail to the bottom. Nail the top 5" from the end where the
wheel is placed. The upper corners of the axle blocks are to be cut
off 1". The center of the 5/16" hole for the axle is 7%" from
the lower edge. When nailing the axle blocks in place, put a dowel
or lead pencil thru the holes to help in nailing the blocks exactly op-
posite each other.
After sawing a board for the wheel 4%" square, draw the diagon-
als and diameters (cornerwise and crosswise, that means) to di-
vide it into eight parts. Draw a 4" circle for the wheel and a
3%" circle to mark the depth of the notches for the paddles. Shape
the wheel. (See page 20 for directions.), Test it with the try-
square to keep the edge square with the flat surface. Bore a 94."
hole in the center with the greatest care, or the wheel will wobble
sidewise. The notches are cut with the back-saw alone. One-eighth
of an inch to one side of the eight lines across the circle, saw straight
down to the inner circle. Be careful to hold the saw square with the
wheel. After this saw cut is made, measure the width of the notch
by holding the edge of a paddle so as just to cover the saw cut, and,
with a knife point make a dot at the other side of the paddle. Hold-
ing the trySquare against one side of the wheel and the inner edge of
its blade over the dot, score a knife line across the edge of the wheel.
Then saw Straight down again inside this knife line. Saw cornerwise
a few times and the wood will be removed sufficiently. The notches
may better be too small than too large, for the paddles can be planed
thinner to fit. Clean the wheel with the plane before nailing the pad-
dles. All these paddles except one can be nailed with the wheel held
in a corner of the vise. To nail that one, put a thin board upright
in the vise and rest the wheel on its top. All nails should be started
in the paddles, not in the wheel.
MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
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66 MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
Make the axle of hard wood. Push it thru the axle blocks and
wheel, and lock it to the wheel with a brad, Plate 19. The axle is .
made long so that a pulley (spool) can be put on and a belt (string)
run from this to other pulleys. A leather washer outside each axle
block keeps the wheel in the center. If the work has been carefully
done, the paddles will not strike; if they do strike, they must be
pared off. - ~ *
MANUAL TRAINING TOYS. 67
WATER MOTOR.—PLATE 20.
This motor is a waterwheel designed for an ordinary hose faucet.
Under a stream of water no bigger than a large needle, it will fairly
buzz. If the wheel does not run exactly true on the axle, the motor
will need legs screwed on the outside of the box.
Make the wheel of soft wood just as true as possible. (See page
20.) For the axle a small brass rod or a large knitting needle may
be used. In the center of the wheel, drill a hole Smaller than the
axle so as to make a tight fit. Be very careful to bore this hole
straight. Force the axle thru the wheel, and if the wheel wobbles
only slightly drive wooden wedges beside the axle to force it square
with the wheel. If it wobbles too much, plug the hole and try boring
again. Resting the axle on the jaws of the wise, revolve the wheel
rapidly to see where it is out of true, and patiently pare it down.
The flat side of the wheel which wobbles only a little can be planed
off. The strip of screen wire netting should now be tacked on the
wheel. It is long enough to go twice around the wheel, and should
be tacked on with a dozen small tacks.
For suggestions about the pulley see page 56.
Prepare a block of soft wood for the coupling. From its bottom,
gage a line marking the height of the dovetails in which the blocks C
and D fit 3%" on each side. Saw these dovetails 3/16" deep,
and pare them slanting with a chisel. In the center of the top, bore
a 1" hole, 34" deep; continue the hole thru the block with a
%" bit. Bore holes 3%" from the top, 9%" from the ends for the
two 1%" screws which are shown in the small drawing, Plate 20.
Gage and saw out the left-hand half of the block (as shown in the
plate) as deep as the 1" hole. The purpose of this is to permit a
squeezing fit on the threads of the faucet. When first trying it on
the faucet, squeeze it hard with a hand-screw to jamb the threads
into the wood; after that, the screws can be put in and the coupling
attached at pleasure. A 34” hole is bored in the 94" dowel, which
serves as a nozzle, until the spur just shows. Without allowing the
bit to bore any farther, turn it around enough so that the spur will
wear the wood and thus make a tapering hole as shown in the Sec-
tional drawings.
68 MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
Prepare the sides, ends, and top of the box, the three blocks, the
key wedge, and the two stops. The wedge should be 1/16" wider
at one end than the other and should fit the dovetail. Block C
should fit the other. In the top piece, bore a 34” hole in the mid-
dle 1%" from the end. This hole is larger than the nozzle to al-
low for adjustments. All these parts must now be thoroly soaked
with paraffin. Melt the paraffin, apply it with a brush to all sur-
faces, and drive it in with heat. During the process, the nozzle can
be made fast in the coupling, using plenty of paraffin to make it
water tight. See that the tiny outlet occupies the best position for
directing the water onto the wheel. After the nozzle is cold again,
the outlet should be carefully worked out again with the warm point
of a big hat-pin or wire, filed to a good point.
Put the parts together as follows: Nail one side (the right in
the plate) to the ends; screw the other side to ends; nail top to ends
and first side only; nail block B to A; then A to the top. Unscrew the
side and bore holes in the center of the sides for the axle. Make
them fit nicely, then soak them with paraffin. Put the wheel, the
side, the pulley, and the stops in place. Put the coupling in such
position that the nozzle comes over the rim, of the wheel and nail
block C. After putting two or three soft leather washers in the
coupling screw it to the faucet, lock it to the motor, and the motor
is ready. - r
Better bearings for the axle can be made of two pieces of solder
screwed to the inside of the sides. If these are made, the holes in
the sides should be large enough not to touch the axle. The wheel
and pulley can be locked to a brass axle by boring a hole thru the
axle with a drill made of a needle. (See Drills, page 11.)
MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
69
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70 MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
SAND WHEEL–PLATE 21.
Fine sand will make a wheel like this spin around lively. Most
of the parts are easily made, the wheel offering the most difficulties.
As shown in the drawing it consists of two boxes, uprights con-
necting the two, and a wheel with paddles swung on an axle be-
tween the uprights.
To make the curves on the uprights, lay them edge to edge in
the vise and start the spur of a large bit in the crack, 1%" from
each end. If a big spool cannot be obtained for the wheel, plane out
an octagonal block 1%" long, 1" in diameter. The slanting part of
the spool must be whittled away. Divide one end into eight equal
parts and drawn lines lengthwise the spool at each division. On
A
IB JB E.
Fig. 4
these lines, measure very carefully 11/16" from one end. Then,
holding the spool level in the wise bore 3/16" holes half thru the
spool at each of these dots. The easiest way to lay out the paddles
is in one long piece as shown in Fig. 4. If lines A and B are sawed
carefully (see page 12) they will fit the spool well enough to
glue. The stems of the paddles go into the holes bored in the spool.
They are easily made round by paring the corners a little, and then
screwing them around in a 3/16" hole in a piece of hard wood.
The ends of the paddles where the sand strikes are bevelled on the
under side. The holes in the uprights, thru which 194” brads are
pushed into the center of the spool, must be exactly opposite each
other, 3%" from the bottom. Little leather washers should be
|

IMIANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
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PLATE 21

72 MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
put between the spool and the uprights. Now make the boxes. To
nail the boxes to the upright follow the suggestions on page 59 for
nailing the floor of the weather cottage. Keep the brads near the
center of the uprights lest they split the curves. A 5/16" hole for
the sand is bored in the upper box in such a position that the sand
will strike near the middle of the ends of the paddles. The peg is
tapered to fit this hole,
MANUAL TRAINING TOYS. 73
RUNNING WIHEEL–PLATE 22.
It is fine fun for several boys to race down the street with run-
ning wheels. Each boy can have a different kind of wheel by fol-
lowing the suggestions on Plate 22.
The wheel may be made any convenient size. Saw a board off
square and plane it flat. To be sure that it is flat, it must be tested
with a straight-edge from corner to corner, crosswise, and lengthwise.
Draw the circle with a string pinned to the center, if a large com-
Fig. 5
pass is not at hand. Saw it with a turning saw and finish it as sug-
gested on page 20. Bore and countersink a hole in the center for
a 1%" flat-head screw. Make the handle and drill a small hole
in it where the wheel is to be screwed on. Round off the upper end
and edges of the handle so that it feels good to the hand grasping it.
The screws used in the connecting rod should slip easily thru the
holes at each end. Altho one arm will do, two look better. To draw
the boy, draw as many 34" squares on the board as there are in
Fig. 5, then sketch the outline one square at a time. To cut it out,

74 MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
a scroll-saw or turning-saw is almost surely needed, tho a patient
boy can do it with auger-bits, back-saw, knife, and file—the bits to
be used first at all the inside angles. On the handle, must be put a
block on which to screw the boy. To fasten the two arms loosely at
the shoulders, the screw should be loose in the shoulder and first arm,
and tight in the second arm. The same is true of the hands and
flagpole. In the top of the flagpole, bore a hole to fit a small flag.
Paint of bright colors makes the model look much more pleasing.
An easy way to make the sliding part of the lower right-hand
running wheel, Plate 22, is to cut out with bit and chisel a narrow
slot thru the handle, wide enough for two screws, with washers on
them, which screw into the block holding the flag.
READ y For A RAcE

| | W H E E L | 8 plam.
| | HANDLE | 36 || |
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PLATE 22





76 MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
RATTLE-PLATE 23.
This is a noisy toy and will make a safe substitute for fire-crack-
ers on the Fourth of July. Some of the dimensions may be changed
to suit such a spool as can be obtained. It should be a rather deep
spool, that is, one that held a lot of thread. -
The noise is made by the spring Snapping off the slats in the spool
as the head of the rattle is swung round and round. Draw lines
across one end of the spool to divide it into eight equal parts. Place
the spool endwise in the wise and, with the back-saw, cut eight notches
a little more than 1/16" wide straight towards the opposite side of
the spool. By sawing twice at each notch, the wood which remains
can easily be removed with the saw held slanting. There are several
ways of making the eight little slats which fit into these notches;
the easiest, perhaps, is to split them from a block (15%"x1%"x-
5/16”) of a straight-grained wood, and plane them on the jig de-
scribed at the foot of page 19. Glue them in the notches. Plane
the back and the spring this same way. Square both ends of the back
but do not plane it quite to width until it is glued and nailed in
place. In the two sides, bore a 5/16" hole for the dowel, 34" from
the end and a little over 34" from the back edge. (Holes are al-
ways located by their centers.) This dowel must fit tightly in the
handle and spool, and loosely in the two sides. Plane the spring
thinner at the narrow end. It should be narrow enough and its cor-
ners cut off enough so as not to touch the spool when it snaps. The
handle might well be octagonal rather than round.
The parts may now be put together as follows: Glue and nail
the sides first to the thick end, second to the thin end. The dis-
tance between the ends inside is 3 5/16”. Keep these four parts flush
on the back edges so that the back will fit. Glue and nail the back.
Glue the dowel in the handle. Put glue inside the spool and on
the middle portion of the dowel, then, with the spool between the
two sides, push the dowel thru all three holes. Glue and nail the
spring in place. It should be as far towards the spool as it will go
without Snapping the next slat when it snaps off one slat.
MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
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| | B A C K 542; ;-
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| | E N D | | | |# | #
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| | HANDLE | 3:# # DJ AM
PLATE 23



78 MANUAL TRAINING TOYS. ,
CART-PLATE 24.
The important features of a cart are the wheels and axle and the
tongue; if these are strong and the tongue securely fastened, almost
any box will do for the body. Two tongues, nailed or screwed to
the sides of the body, probably make the strongest handle, but they
are not so good looking as the one shown in Plate 24. If this one
is screwed to the box with six 1" screws, two in the tongue and
two in each block, it will be strong enough. Some of the nicer boxes
to be secured of a grocer will do for a body, tho it is better to make
one one’s self.
Four wheels of 3/4" hard wood should be made (see page 20) and
then each two of the four glued and nailed together very securely
with the grain crosswise. For this purpose, 1%" clout, or clinch.
nails are best. Do not drive them too near the center nor the rim.
To clinch nails, they should be driven onto a piece of iron. After
this is done, a 76" hole (or larger if you can get a larger stick
for the axle) is bored straight thru the center. To cut the cylindrical
ends of the axle, first draw a 74" circle at the center of each end,
then lay out and saw out two rectangular pieces, one on each side of
the circles So as to leave a 7%" square pin, 2%" long. Proceed
to make these pins; first, eight sided; then, sixteen sided; then,
round; using knife or chisel and a coarse flat file. Make the hole
in the washers before cutting off each corner 9/16". These wash-
ers are to be fastened to the axle when held rather snugly against the
wheel with two 1" screws put crosswise the grain. Before putting
the wheels on the last time, rub the axles and holes well with hard
Soap to make them run easier. Draw a line across the bottom of the
body 5" from the back end, and bore four screw holes thru the bot-
tom; countersink them well on the inside of the body, and put 1"
Screws thru into the flat side of the axle. The axle is planned so that
the wheels run within 54" of the body.
With a curved lower edge, the tongue is 2%" wide at one end
and 1%" at the other. To get the correct slant at the wide end,
block up the cart level, have some one (or the wise) hold the tongue
in the position wanted when finished, then with a strip of wood .
79.
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80 MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
-
about 2" wide placed upright against the front of the body, draw a
line on the tongue. From the lowest corner of the tongue, draw an-
other line parallel to the first, and saw off. After making the two
blocks and fastening them securely to the tongue, saw the lower ends
flush with the curve of the tongue. Place the tongue in position,
draw a line around it on the body, then bore holes where screws will
go best into the tongue and blocks. Six 1" screws well countersunk
will hold the tongue securely. Since the tongue is fastened to the
front, the sides and bottom must be well nailed to it; or, the corners
may be strengthened with a piece of tin inside and outside each cor-
ner, tacked or riveted together. Each piece of tin should be about
3" square.
A piece of old bicycle frame forced tightly into the hole of a
wheel, makes it very durable. Such a hole would doubtless have to
be bored with an expansive bit. A bicycle frame is easily filed in two
at some distance from the reinforced joints. Such a piece should be
longer than the thickness of the wheel to allow filing it flush after it
is driven in. To force it in, use a strong vise, or, after protecting it
with hard wood, drive it slowly with a heavy hammer.
Small carts can be made with wheels made of spools like those
of the cannon. (See Plate 25.)
|
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}
MANUAL TRAINING TOYS. t 81
CANNON.—PLATE 25.
This cannon will shoot small marbles very well. The force of it
depends, of course, on the strength of the rubber bands. Because the
ramrod and handle are rather heavy, a strong dowel is put thru the
handle and ramrod. The rubber washer absorbs some of the shock.
For the barrel draw a 1%" circle on one end of a stick 6%"x
1%"x1%". From the center of this circle, bore a 9/16" hole straight
thru the stick endwise, stopping as soon as the spur comes thru. Set
the needle of the compass in this spur hole and draw a 1" circle and,
if possible, a 1%" circle; then finish boring.
Plane the stick round to the 1%" circle. To hold the stick
while doing this, put a rod thru the hole, open the wise 6%" and
let the barrel rest endwise in the wise. Two and one-half inches from
the breech end of the barrel, draw a line around it to limit the taper
of the muzzle end. Plane the muzzle to the 1" circle. Two inches
from the breech, bore a 3%" hole straight thru the barrel; and into
this hole glue the axle. After the glue is dry, bore out the barrel
again, and sandpaper the hole well. w
Make the ramrod fit loosely in the barrel. (See directions for
Dart, page 16.) Make the handle in the same manner as the bar-
rel was made, except that, after drawing the 1%" circle at the
end where the spur just appears, the hole is not bored further. Glue
the ramrod in place, and fasten it with the 3%" dowel. The curved
notch into which the rubber bands are tied, can be worked out
patiently with a round file, first cutting a V-shaped notch with a
knife. Pare the corners and sandpaper all parts well. -
The rubber washer can be made of an old rubber heel. To bore
a hole in it, squeeze it between two boards and bore thru both to-
gether.
At least one of the uprights must be screwed to the base. The
first one may be nailed. Glue and nail this one WA" from the
edge of the base. Hold the other in place and draw a line around it.
Bore holes for the screws, put the screws in the holes, and press the
upright on them to mark where to bore in the upright. After boring
in the uprights, put the cannon and upright in place, and tighten the
screws. The wheels can be made of the ends of large spools, well
counter-sunk for a short, large screw.
82
* MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
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83
PLATE 26




84 MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
AUTOMOBILE–PLATE 26.
Tho the motor (an elastic band) which makes this automobile go
is a short-winded affair, still, if the wheels are easy running, it will
go alone for a short distance on a wooden floor. A stronger elastic
can be used if the automobile carries a load. If the parts are painted
with bright colors before they are entirely put together, the automo-
bile will look very well.
First, make the body, then 4%" from the front end and 34"
from the right side, bore a 1/4” hole in the body for the steer-
ing post. This should fit tightly so as to hold the wheels in any
position desired. Leather washers are mailed to the post close to the
body. The steering post must be put in place before any other parts
are fastened to the body. $
The ends of the rails which are later fastened to the bottom of
the body, slant }}". The center of the holes for the axles is 34”
beyond this slanting line and 34" above the lower edge of the
rails. When boring these 94" holes, the rails should be clamped to-
gether so that the holes will be exactly opposite each other. The
forward holes are made long to allow the axles to swing back and
forth. To make this hole, two 94" holes are bored side by side and
the top and bottom smoothed with a 34” chisel. When nailing
the body to the rails, put the rear axle thru the holes to aid in keep-
ing them opposite each other.
The forward axle is made in one piece and kept so until after the
steering “rope” is in place. The axle must be held carefully in place
while the brad holes are bored 9%" from the outer edge of the rails
and straight thru the center of the axle. A tight fitting brad is
driven into this hole. The steering rope must not stretch; large,
hard thread is suitable. Wind a piece about 18" long tightly
around the axle about 34" from one rail and tie it. Pass one end
thru the Small screw-eyes shown in the lower drawing, and wind it
around the axle near the other rail leaving no slack in the screw-
eyes; then wind six to eight turns smoothly around the steering post,
and fasten the end to the beginning with several half-hitches. (See
Plate 15.) A separate thread should be tied around the axle and
IMANUAL TRAINING TOYS. 85
steering rope at the second place. Should there be any slack, it can
be taken up by laying a V-shaped thread over the steering rope near
the axle and passing the two ends over the upper side of the axle,
and tying them across the steering rope on the other side of the axle.
This tends to pull the steering rope together on top of the axle.
The wheels can be sawed from short lengths of curtain poles, ob-
tained at a furniture store. The 94" holes for the axle, must be
bored exactly at the center. The wheels must turn freely on the
front axle, but be glued to the rear axle, which must itself turn freely
in the rails. After the wheels are in place, the front axle can be
sawed in two with a back-saw, using very short strokes, and sawing
two cuts nearly thru before either is sawed completely.
Nail the wind-shield to the engine, then glue both to the body.
Nail the seat-back to the seat so that the top of the seat will be
34" above the body, then nail the two sides to the end and to the
seat-back and seat. Glue the whole to the body. Nails can be driven
up thru the body into the engine, the seat back, and the end, if care
is used in locating them.
One end of the elastic band (motor) is tied with a bit of string
to a brad driven in the forward end of the body of the automobile.
On the other end of the elastic band is tied a piece of string about
8" long. This is put just under the body and above the steering
rope and wound two or three times tightly around the rear axle
and tied. The string and elastic band should be simply straight, the
elastic neither stretched nor loose. To wind up the motor, move the
automobile backwards on the floor and hold the rear wheels until
ready to let the automobile go.
86 MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
BOW PISTOL–PLATE 27.
For target shooting in the house, this is a fine toy. With nicely
made arrows and a good bow, it will shoot very well.
Make a good bow of rattan, or other tough wood. An old spoke
of a carriage wheel could doubtless be obtained of a blacksmith or
wheelwright, and such a hickory spoke would make a good bow.
Make the bow much like that shown on Plate 8,
except that it should be round at the center to
fit the 3%" hole in the pistol. The bow-string
should be a hard cord so that it will slip easily
from the notches in the barrel when the trigger
is pulled. 5
Before shaping the pistol, make the groove
in the center of one edge of the board. This
should be made with a 3%" round plane. It can be made, however,
with the tool shown in Fig. 6, a gouge, and a round file. This tool is
much like the one described on page 41 tho a larger nail is used.
Make the groove 7/32” deep gage a line 3/16" from each side of the
board; then use the gouge inside these lines and as deep as the groove.
When the gouging is well done, smooth the groove with a round file
or coarse Sandpaper wrapped around a pencil. t
Draw and shape the pistol. Make the lower edge of the barrel
half round. Sandpaper it well. Make the trigger of hard wood and
Screw it on the pistol. The shape of the notch next to the trigger is
very important but the shape of the other one is not so. Both
notches, however, must be so smooth and well rounded as not to in-
jure the bowstring. They should be not deeper than one-half the
depth of the groove. -
Arrows are quickly made by sawing long strips of straight-grained
wood, 3/16" square, planing the corners, and sandpapering; then
cutting them 5" long, splitting the ends (see page 16), inserting a
paper 1"x}%" and tying the end with thread. w

87
MANTIAL TRAINING Toys.
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88 MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
ELASTIC GUN–PLATE 28.
If cash carrier elastic cord about 5/16" in diameter and 18"
long is used on this gun, it will shoot buckshot, peas, Small arrows,
etc., with considerable force; in fact, if the cord is fastened far
enough forward, it will require all a boy’s strength to pull the rider
back to the hook. The gun may be made of pine, whitewood or clear
Spruce.
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To lay out the gun (see Fig. 7) first draw A, B, then A C, then
measure B D and draw C D; next measure the width of the barrel
and draw E F; add 3%" below this for the gun-stock, and finally
draw the curves freehand. To saw it out, first rip it along E F,
then cross cut it at H. P., then rip it as far the curve along C D,
and then along the lower side of the gun-stock to meet C D, finally
along A B. Of course, none of this sawing should quite touch the
lines. Plane to these lines wherever possible, then use the spoke-
shave. The curve and corner at F should be pared with a chisel.
The lower edge of the gun-stock and barrel is made half-round, but
the upper edge, especially where the spring is screwed, is only slightly
round. The curve at the butt of the gun-stock should be cut out with
the turning-saw, and rounded with a half-round file. The groove can
be made as in the bow pistol. (See page 86.)
All parts of the gun should be well sandpapered, especially where
the elastic will rub on the barrel. - g
Make the trigger of tough wood.
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3



90 MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
Bore a 34” hole for the trigger post about 34" from the
back end of the groove, making it slant forward about 34". Make
this hole smooth as possible. Where the hole comes thru the gun-
stock, start the mortise in which the trigger belongs. This should
be 3%" deep and an easy fit for the trigger. Put the trigger in
place, and drill a small hole straight thru the gun-stock and trigger.
Consider carefully where to bore this hole so that it will not come too
near the edge of the trigger. Insert a good-fitting brad and see if the
trigger post will move up and down about 94". Do not make the
mortise so long that the trigger post will slip by the trigger.
Now make the spring of hard wood. Pare the curve from each
end with a chisel, holding the spring endwise in the bench-hook. The
holes for the screw and the hook must be large enough so that the
spring will not be split, and yet the hook must be screwed in strongly
to hold the elastic. The hook must be filed off enough, and slanting,
so that the screw-eye in the rider will slide under it and be caught.
The rider is the hardest part to make because it is small and
must be of hard wood; also, the block must be nicely fitted into the
long piece. Make the lower edge of the long piece round so as to
slide well in the groove. Bore a 5/16" hole thru the block enduise
the grain, countersink the ends, and smooth them so that they can-
not injure the elastic. Next lay out, saw, and chisel a notch 5/16"
deep in the long piece in which the block will fit snugly. Glue it
and nail it from the under side, or put in a 9%" screw. Holes will
have to be bored carefully for either brads or screw. Bore a hole, and
put the screw-eye in such a position that it will slide under the hook
with a snap. Be éareful not to twist the eye off in this hard wood.
The back end of the eye might well be filed somewhat slanting so
as to slip under the hook better. -
Put the elastic thru the rider, snap the rider on the hook, and
pull the ends of the elastic as far as seems best-don’t have it too
strong! Where the ends of the elastic are pulled, bore two 34”
holes thru the barrel one above the other. Bind the elastic securely
between these holes; to make it doubly secure, wind a string between
the elastic and the barrel to pull the first strings closer together.
MANUAL TRAINING TOYS. 91
Now saw off the ends of a spool about 9%" and screw them to
the barrel in such a place that they will hold the elastic, without
stretching, against the sides of the barrel. These spools should turn
easily. They cannot be placed exactly opposite because the screws
will interfere.
Snap the rider to the hook, pull the trigger, and notice that the
rider goes up with the trigger post. To hold it down, put a slender
34" screw on each side of the groove in such a place that the screw
heads will come over the outside of the screw-eye; or, 1" brads may
be bent over the screw-eye. When everything is in working order,
drive a 1" brad on each side of the spring to keep the hook always in
place.
THE ELASTIC GUN

92 MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
RATTLE-BANG GUN–PLATE 29.
For boys who want to play soldier, here is a gun which will make
a big noise but will not hurt anybody. -
First, make the rattle of maple. The slot in it can be made with
the rip-saw. The solid end must be nicely squared to fit the for-
ward end of the pocket cut out of the gun-stock. Here it must be
held firmly in place by glue and two screws. One screw is put
Slanting from the top of the gun-stock; the other is put straight
from the bottom. That the rattle may sound the loudest, it must
not touch anywhere else than this solid end. When putting the
knocker and trigger in place, see that they also do not touch the
rattle. The gun-stock is made like that of the elastic gun (Plate 28)
except that it has to be 2%" wide in that portion which holds
the rattle. The pocket is 3%" from the forward end and 1%."
deep where the solid part of the rattle fits. To put the slanting
Screw in nicely, a place must be cut out with a small chisel for its
head, 3%" deep and 9%" away from the pocket. Clamp the rattle in
position, bore a hole for the screw, then glue and screw the rattle in
place. Before the glue is dry, see that the rattle is straight, then
put the lower screw into it. -
Make the knocker of maple. The reason for the triangular notch
in its bottom edge will be evident when the trigger is turned around.
The stiffer the spring is, the harder, of course, it will strike the rat-
tle, and also, the harder the trigger will turn; %" will be thick
enough for the thinnest place. 's -
The trigger should also be of maple. Join it with a cross-lap
joint. (See page 24.) Then, holding each end successively up-
right in the vise, draw the slanting lines and saw for 3%" length-
wise in such a way as to leave 1/16" flat on each of the two
adjacent surfaces. After sawing endwise, saw the little corner pieces
off crosswise. The trigger has to withstand considerable pulling, so
it should fit nicely, yet easily, a 1" screw in its center. Before
Screwing either the knocker or the trigger in place, lay both on the
gun-stock so that they will engage properly; then mark the place for
the Screws, drill holes, and screw them on. If the knocker touches
98
MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
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94 MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
the rattle, take it off and plane a slanting chip or two where it is
screwed to the gun-stock. A thin leather washer 5%" in diameter
will prevent the trigger touching. A little soap will make the trig-
ger turn easier.
The barrel may well be made of a broomstick. To make it fit on
the top of the gun-stock, saw it down the middle and cut off the lower
half. Before fastening it in place, be sure that it will not touch the
sounding part of the rattle.
A still louder and more difficult rattle to make is shown in Fig.
8. Most boys would find it impossible to a bore a 1" hole endwise in
maple. The knocker and trigger would both have to be set out from
the gun-stock.


MANUAL TRAINING TOYS. 95.
BOAT—PLATE 30.
This boat is designed rather heavy to insure good service. It has
ballast and beam enough to right itself even tho the sails do get wet.
If a better looking boat is desired, draw the deck more slender; hol-
low the hull with bit and gouge; pare the gunwales with the spoke-
shave to give it some sheer; and nail on a thin deck. Soft pine is
the best wood for the hull and spruce for the spars.
To lay out the hull, draw a center-line lengthwise on top, bot-
tom, and ends of the block of wood. Make all the measurements
given on the deck; (top of the hull, Plate 30) first lengthwise, then
crosswise. Square with the deck, the curve should be worked out
with rip-saw and spokeshave. The stem should next be undercut
with the saws (rip and crosscut) so as to make place for the rudder.
On the bottom leave a flat place 7%"x}%" for the keel to fit; then
round the hull as suggested by the sectional drawings at AB and CD.
Make the keel and nail it securely in place. From the under
side of the boat and slanting the same as the keel and under-cut,
bore a 5%" hole for the stem of the rudder.
Make the rudder and tiller of 94" wood. The little mortise in
the tiller can be cut with a small chisel after a 3/16" hole is bored
at its center. For the wheel, make a dowel about 2" long and into
one end of it bore a hole about 1” deep for a 1%" screw. Saw a
piece from this end 56" long and screw it to the deck about 1%" in
front of the hole bored for the rudder. The wheel should turn rather
hard So as to stay in any position desired. -
To make the spars, (mast, boom, etc.,) follow the directions on
page 16. Use large screw-eyes in the gaff and boom (or see Plate
16, “method of Swinging booms to mast”) and a very small one at
the top of the mast. To nail the bowsprit securely, place it 1” back
of the prow, drive a 1" brad thru it near the prow, and one on each
side of it 34" back. Bend these latter over the bowsprit before they
are driven in their full length. An upward slant is given to the
bowsprit by planing its larger end slanting to fit the deck.
96 MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
The rudder is hung on two staples made of pins. Two headless
pins are driven into the rudder and bent down at right angles to slip
into these staples. In order that the stem of the rudder may turn
enough, the rudder must be hung close to the hull. Each “rope”
of the rigging should have its own screw-eye (or staple) and cleat on
the deck. The cleat (a device for fastening a “rope” in any position,
by winding it back and forth) is simply two slender brads driven
slanting.
The mainsail should be 9" on the mast and 11" at its outer edge.
It should be hemmed and properly fastened to the spars. On the
mast, fine wire rings or loops of thread may be used. The jib should
extend 9” up the stay (the “rope” from the end of the bowsprit to
the top of the mast) and be either sewed to it or made to slide on
it with small rings of wire.
Ballast can be cut (with tin-shears or saw) from lead pipe and
nailed to the keel. To drive brads thru lead, pinch them between
the thumb and finger, and drive them gently.
For convenience in holding the boat when it is out of the water,
make a dry dock as shown in the drawing.
MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
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PLATE 30











98 MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
PILE-DRIVER—PLATE 31.
In wet, soft soil, wherever any building operations are to be un-
dertaken, long, straight logs called piles have first to be driven; to
support the foundation. In wet soil they never rot; those driven
for the building of Venice centuries ago are still solid. If holes
are bored in the weight of this toy pile-driver, it is made more ef-
fective. |
This is not a difficult model if each part is well made. It is im-
portant, however, to nail it in the following order: Runs to tip-
rights, uprights to sides, sides to base, top to uprights, braces to tip-
rights, then to base. The ends of the braces are mitered, that is,
sawed, like the corner of a picture-frame, on the diagonal of a square.
The axle of the little spool is made by two 1" brads, and it rests in
notches as near the end of the top blocks as is convenient to file
them. It is held in place by little brads, or pins crossed over it, or
by a staple made of a pin. A crank for the big spool (called the
drum) is made of a 3" piece of stiff wire. It should be flattened
enough not to turn in the drum. Fasten the string to the drum thru
a little hole drilled thru its rim. If the string comes off the up er
Spool, put a large Screw-eye into the top piece and pass the º
thru it. ſº !
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2| RUNS 15 | # #
2 | BRACES | 0 | # | #
2 | BLOCKS 3 | | # | #.
2| Top Blocks | | | # | #
| | WEIGHT 3 | | # ||#
4| WEIGHT GUIDES | 3 || 3 | #
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PLATE 31
3

100 - MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
WINDMILL–PLATE 32.
On a hilltop, exposed to every wind that blows, one of these
windmills made by a boy has been spinning around for four years.
The windmill in this form serves also as a weathervane. Pine is the
best wood for this model. To withstand the weather, the model
should be painted.
After planing the post to size, lay out the chamfers (see page
32) with a pencil on all four sides. The curve should be cut with
a knife; the upper part may be planed, if the square part is not
squeezed in the wise. Plane the two pieces for the vanes as accurately
as possible so as to be able to make a good joint. Lay out and cut
this joint as directed on page 24. After it is well fitted, draw
the curves where the edges are to be whittled away. There are six-
teen of them. Open the compass 34" and place the needle point al-
ways on the front right-hand edge as the wheel turns around. The
curve begins 9%" from the joint and ends W6" from the back edge
(one also goes towards the lower edge). From this point draw a
straight line to the end of the vane. Draw such lines as explained
on page 32. Take the joint apart and whittle the edges away to
these curves.
On the beam, make chamfers 134" long. At the rear end, on the
top and bottom, draw a center-line and two lines on each side of the
center-line 9%" apart. Between the first two, nearest the center-
line, make the V-shaped groove in which the rudder fits. The sides
of the beam are to be pared away to the other two lines, leaving this
end ¥4" wide.
The curves at the rear end of the rudder can be sawed best with
a scroll saw. Lacking that, proceed as follows: First, bore a ¥4"
hole, near the short straight line in the middle. Resting the rudder
on a cutting board, pare to this line with a chisel. Next, saw straight
from the end of the rudder to this straight line; then saw the cor-
ners, and pare to the curves. The width of the notch at the front
end of the rudder is equal to the space left between the roots of the
V-shaped notches in the beam. Measure this space, lay out the
* 2 2 &
• * : .
. MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
101
VV | N D M I LL
SECTION
A T. A B
*
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PLATE 32



102 MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
notch, saw, and chisel it; then pare the corners so as to fit the W-
shaped notches in the beam. Beware of crowding the rudder, for it
will split easily. When fitted, glue and nail it in place, slanting a
1" brad thru the curve into the beam. _*
Put the wheel on the beam with two washers and a large screw
(2” No. 12 round head is a good one). For this screw bore a 4"
hole thru the center of the wheel, and a smaller hole in the beam.
Now balance the windmill on the top of the post, and put the beam
and post together with washers and screw in the same manner.
}
f
MANUAL TRAINING TOYS. 103
KITE-STRING REEL–PLATE 33.
A boy who flies kites will appreciate this reel for hauling in his
kite quickly and keeping the string in order. The axle is made long
for the purpose of putting on a brake when letting out a kite. The
brake is simply a strong cord, fastened to a screw in the lower part
of the further upright, (as viewed in Plate 33) wound several times
around the axle, and the other, end held in the hand. A 1" hole is
bored in the base so that the reel can be anchored to the ground with
a stake. With a loop of string fastened to the upright below the
crank, the crank can be kept from turning, if one does not wish to
let out all of the kite-string.
Make the base first, then the uprights. In the uprights, it is
more convenient to bore the 9/16" holes before the sides are planed
slanting. After the wheel pieces are joined in the manner explained
on page 24, lay out the slanting lines on each arm while the
joint is still together; then take it apart and plane to the slanting
lines. Hold each piece securely slantwise in the wise, because one
pair especially is apt to split from the notch outward. When this
planing is finished, glue the joint and bore a 34” hole straight thru
the center. If convenient, make the cross pieces in one long piece,
20", planing off one corner flat (see sectional drawing, Plate 33)
within Żó" of the two adjacent corners. Being careful to drive no
brad into the 94" hole, glue and nail these four cross pieces to one
wheel. Then glue them to the other wheel and wind some string
around tightly enough to hold this wheel while adjusting and nail-
ing it. It will require care to get the cross pieces square with the
first wheel, and the second wheel parallel with the first. After the
string is wound around to hold the second wheel, measure the dis-
tance from wheel to wheel at the ends of all the arms. The nail-
ing can be done while one arm of the wheels is held in the wise. The
axle and handle should be glued and nailed to the crank. Now put
the reel together, not forgetting the washers inside the uprights, and
lock the wheels to the axle by drilling a hole for a 2" nail thru cross
piece, wheel, and axle. (See illustration on page 55.)
Long lwipe Hºhick
BASE 10 || 5 | #
L EATH E R TO GO BE TWEEN
WAS HERS wheels AND v PRIGHT's
|
2| UPRIGHTS | 6 || 3 | #
4| WHEEL PIECES | 8 || | | #
4| CROSS PIECES 4}| # | #
| | AXLE 8#| # Diam.
| CRANK 3 ||#| ||
|| HANDLE |3} |# Diam.
2.
cRoss Piece
tº-
W H E E L PIECE
t-1
M A K E TWO
K | T E S T R | NG REEL
POST
WHEEL PIECE
M A K E TWO
PLATE 33
£

- LON 6. IWI DE THICK
§| | |BASE 6 || 4 | #
#|2|UPRIGHTS | 5 |2% | #
=|2|CR055 PIECES] 5 || 3 | #
*TTTDOWEL 5 # DIAM
! || BASE 6 |4}| #
| | CORNER BRACE |4#| 3 | #
..., ||UPRIGHT 6# |4}| #
J| ||UPRIGHT 4#|4}| #
*|| || |BLOCK 2# | 3 | #
Cl- | | | CRANK 2 #| # | #
| | AXLE 3 #| # Diam.
^{ZTAXLES 2 #| # Diam.
. 3|WHEELS 1% olam. §
EIILEATHER BELT ||5%l # |
G|LEATHER WASHERS...",".
| |SMALL SP00L for handle
ST R N G \/1 A C H | NE
TO LOC K Do W & L.
ELA STIC BAN DS
TA|L PIECE
tºmºsº
X:
ſº
ſº
HEAD Pl ECE
belt not shown
PLATE 34
3.








106 º MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
STRING MACHINE–PLATE 34.
On a machine like this, one can twist bowstrings, topstrings, fish-
lines, silk cord for fancy work, and any similar cord. Tho designed
to be held on the floor or table with flat-irons, clamps, of course, will
hold it better.
Make the tail piece first. In the cross pieces of the tail piece are
two screws 7%" from the ends; be careful to bore the holes large
enough so the screws will not split them. The edges of the lower
cross piece must be sandpapered enough not to cut the elastic bands.
In order that the belt shall run on the center of the wheels in
the head piece, it is important to have the three axles parallel. To
make them so, the two uprights must be clamped together while
boring the 3%" holes for the axles. Lest the spur of the bit split
the uprights, drill small holes at each center first. Do not nail
the longer upright to the base until the belt runs well in both direc-
tions. On a lathe, the wheels and axles could easily be made of one
piece; lacking a lathe, a big spool or curtain pole must be used. Plug
the hole of the spool with a dowel, then very accurately find its cen-
ter and bore a 3%" hole thru it. Saw it into three 5%" pieces for
the wheels. Glue these to the axles so that 1" extends thru the taller
upright. A belt runs better on a wheel that is “crowned,” that is,
slightly larger in the middle; so the edges of these wheels must be
pared 1/32", making a gentle curve. Put the washers each side of
the wheels, then put the wheels in place in the taller upright, and
nail this to the triangular block. Pull a 5%" leather belt tightly
around the three wheels and sew the ends so that they butt together.
Clamp the shorter upright in position and turn the upper axle to
See if the belt runs well in both directions. It will run true when
all three axles are parallel, so keep knocking the shorter upright
from side to side or up and down until the belt does run true; then
bore holes for three screws to hold it to the triangular block. Make
the crank and lock it to the upper axle with a 54" screw.
To twist a string, set the two parts of the machine somewhat
farther apart than the finished length desired, put on as many
IMANUAL TRAINING TOYS. 107
threads, from hooks on the tail piece to corresponding hooks on the
head piece, as will make the finished string the desired size. Ob-
serve how these separate threads were twisted, and start the machine
in the opposite way. Twist until the three strands kink readily when
the head piece is brought nearer the tail piece. The tighter these
are twisted, the harder the string will be. (Soap rubbed on the in-
side of the belt may make the belt carry more power). When these
three strands are twisted enough, remove the two lower ones from
their hooks on the head piece to the upper hook. Twist in the op-
posite direction until the string kinks again, and it is made. If the
three strands are waxed, a stronger string will be made.
108 MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
WINDMILL FORCE-PUMP—PLATE 35.
If this pump is properly connected with an air chamber, as ex-
plained later, it will send a small stream of water some ten feet. In
a gale, the windmill is strong enough, in fact, to force the valves
from the glass tubes. Like any model of considerable mechanism,
this will require patience to get it in working order. The post is
made short for stability. If it can be held in place firmly, a trestle-
work tower like a real windmill might be built of stock 34"x}%" for
the corner posts and #4"x}%" for the braces.
The post is slanting on two sides to fit the journals at the top.
It is fastened to the base with two 2" screws. Make the wheel cen-
ter 2%" square, and thru its center bore a 34” hole. If it does not
revolve true, make another block and try again. Make the block
octagonal by cutting off each corner 5%". On each of the eight faces
saw notches W6" wide and 5/16” deep into which the vanes will fit.
(See page 64 on cutting notches.) Make and glue the vanes in place
and lay the wheel flat to dry. -
Procure three pieces of water-gage glass 2" long, 7/16" to 9%"
inside diameter. Glass tubes can be broken apart by filing a slight
notch, grasping the tube firmly each side of the notch, and pulling
and bending the tube away from the notch. If the file starts a little
break, this will be comparatively easy, if it does not, file some more.
Into two tubes little valves must be cemented. These can be made
of a firm piece of leather. Sole leather that is not too hard is best.
With knife or chisel, pare two pieces on the cutting board to fit in
the tubes. The cement will make them water tight later. Push the
sharp point of a penknife into the smooth side of the leather disk
and make a circular cut, as one would remove a speck from an apple,
but do not cut the flap completely out, because it must be left hinged
to the disk. Turn this flap up straight out of the way so as to be
able to work a 4" hole thru the disk. This can be punched, drilled,
or cut out with a 9%" chisel, and finished with a penknife. Of
course, the edges of the flap should cover this hole completely. The
valve in the lowest tube should be cemented about 9%.” from the lower
*W N D M | LL FORCE-PUMP
ſº
ºs- PJSTON ROD
ſº
\\%:ST
LONG | W1 DE ITH ICK
|| BASE ěž 6% |# ||
2|CLEATS 6# || §
| ||POST | 9 ||} |I:
2|JOURNALS | 2 || | #
| | BLOCK 4 || 2 ||#
|UPRIGHT | 6:#| |} | {
|BEAM 7# | # | #
|CONNECTING ROD 3% | # | 1
| | CRANK I} | { | #
|WHEEL CENTER. 2; 25 |#
8|VANES 7# –5–
1; wipe at one two l; woº Ar other no
|AXLE 5%. H. Diana.
|PISTON Rod || 4 || Diam.
3|GLASS TUBES 2. # ºf
2|LEATHERWALVES :... "...is
3|RUBBER TUBES for vacana
3|LEATHER WASHERS on axle
PLATE 35
§

110 MANUAL TRAINING TOYS.
end with the flap up, that in the horizontal tube about 34" from the
outer end with the flap out. To make sealing-wax sticky enough to
cement these valves in the tubes, melt one teaspoon of Wax with one-
half teaspoon of turpentine in a large spoon, and allow it to cool.
Break it in pieces small enough to go in the tubes. Put the valve
in the tube a little to one side of its final position; put in some of
the wax mixture; heat the tube in an alcohol flame, rolling the tube
till the wax begins to melt; remove from the flame; and when the
wax is all melted, push the valve to its final position with a pencil.
While it is cooling, see that the wax does not flow into the valve.
All three tubes must have a piece of rubber tubing on the outside
to serve as packing in the wooden block. With an expansive bit,
holes can be bored in the block so that the rubber tubing will fit
tightly. Lacking that, bore a smaller hole and enlarge it with a
round file. The center of the vertical hole is somewhat to the left
(as viewed in Plate 35) of the center of the block to allow the hori-
zontal tube more support. This will require the notch in the upright
also to be to the left of the center. After the holes are bored, the
pores of the wood must be filled with paraffin. In a little dish, melt
some paraffin and put it into the holes with a rag tied to a stick.
When the holes are well covered, drive the wax into the wood with
an alcohol or candle flame held in the hole till the wood is fairly hot,
The outside of the block might well be treated in like manner. It
will be best to cement these tubes in their places. Melt a tablespoon
of sealing wax with about as much turpentine. With this, not too
hot, build up a good fillet over the rubber tubing 34", perhaps, on
the glass tubes. -
Make a good fitting piston for the upper tube; it must not slide
hard (oil it) and yet it must be air tight. To make the piston file
two grooves 9%" apart around and near the end of the piston rod.
Wind a hummock of yarn between these grooves till it almost fills
the tube, then wrap a piece of soft cloth (knitted underwear)
Smoothly over the hummock, tying it in each groove with thread.
IMANUAL TRAINING TOYS. 111
Lock the crank to the axle with a 3%" Screw. Adjust the axle
and keep it in position with two leather washers locked to the axle
just outside the journals. Clamp the block to the base, adjust it in
line with the crank, and fasten it with two 1%" screws up thru the
base. The last connection to make is between the crank and con-
necting-rod. To make this, raise the piston to its highest position,
and turn the crank to its lowest; choose what seems the best point
for the screw, marking the point on crank and connecting-rod; now
lower the piston and raise the crank; if the two points do not come
together, the screw should be placed half way between them. This
screw should be tight in the crank. The wheel can now be glued to
the axle or locked with a brad slanting from the front of the wheel
center.
Before they will work, the valves must be made limber with
water, and to start the pump, water may have to be put on each side
of the valves. Water may be pumped to any height by fastening a
pipe to the horizontal tube. To obtain a steady stream, like a fire-
engine, connect the horizontal tube with an air-tight bottle. The
pipe which goes into this bottle should reach just below the stopper,
The outlet pipe should nearly reach the bottom of the bottle, and it
should have a nozzle Smaller than any other opening in the whole
apparatus. The bottle should be partly full of water. Quarter-inch
glass tubing can be melted and shaped in an alcohol flame, and, if
Some rubber tubing is used as a connection, the nozzle can be played
anywhere.
§ f^* : - , , s 5; ſº -
àrº ; G
, ' , , : .' s 3...' '
B O O K S for B O YS
Especially Helpful for the Use of Boys
in their Home Shops
ESSENTIALS of WOODWORKING.
By 1za S. Griffith. i
A textbook written especially for the use of grammar and high school stu-
dents. A clear and comprehensive treatment of woodworking tools, materials, and
processes, to supplement, but not to take the place of the instruction given by
the teacher. The book does not contain a course of models; it may be used with
any course. It is illustrated with photographs and numerous pen drawings.
Price, 75 cents.
wooDwork for BEGINNERS.
By Ira S. Griffith,
A remarkably simple treatment of elementary woodworking for students in
7th and 8th grades. It deals with tools, tool processes and materials and include
only such subject-matter as should be taught to grammar grade students. It is
a practical and unusually attractive textbook, and one that can be used with any
course of models, and in any order. Price, 50 cents.
BIRD HOUSES BOYS CAN BUILD.
By Albert F. Siepert.
A book of rare interest to boys. It is written in the boy spirit and combines
the charm of nature with the allurements of continuation work in wood. It
illustrates hundreds of bird houses and shows working drawings of various designs,
also feeders, shelters, sparrow traps, and other bird accessories. The common
house nesting birds are pictured and described, with information regarding houses,
foods, etc., suitable for each. A pleasing and practical book for wide-awake boys.
Price, 50 cents. &
KITECRAFT and KITE TOURNAMENTS.
By Charles M. Miller
A valuable book for boys. It is a complete treatment of kites, and kite flying.
It tells about kite construction, how to make various kinds of kites: bird kites,
plain kites, box kites, etc., and how to fly them. It also tells how to make and
use messengers, suspended figures and appliances, balloons and parachutes, aero-
planes, gliders, together with propellers, motors, gears and winding devices. A
book full of interest and instruction for every boy. Price, $1.00,
*
T H E M A N U A L A R T S P R E S s
P E O R ſ A, I L L I N O I S -
B O O K S for B O YS
The “Problems Series” of Working Drawings,
Good for Either Home or School Use
PROJECTS for BEGINNING WOODWORK and
MECHANICAL DRAWING.
By Ira S. Griffith.
A work book for the use of students in grammar grade classes. It consists
of working drawings and working directions. The projects are such as have
proven of exceptional service where woodworking and mechanical drawing are
taught in a thoro, systematic manner in the seventh and eighth grades. The aim
has been to provide successful rather than unique problems. The fifty projects in
the book have been selected and organized with the constant aim of securing the
highest educational results. The book is especially suited for use in connection
with “Woodwork for Beginners” and “Essentials of Woodworking” by the same
author. Price, 75 cents.
PROBLEMS ºn WOODWORKING.
By M. W. Murray.
A convenient collection of good problems consisting of forty plates of working
drawings of problems in bench work that have been successfully worked out by
boys in grades seven to nine, inclusive. Price, 75 cents.
ADVANCED PROJECTS in WOODWORK.
By Ira S. Griffith.
This book is similar to “Projects for Beginning Woodwork and Mechanical
Drawing,” but is suited to high school needs. It consists of fifty plates of prob-
lems and accompanying notes. It is essentially a collection of problems in furni-
ture making selected or designed with reference to school use. On the plate with
each working drawing is a good perspective sketch of the completed object. In
draftsmanship and refinement of design these problems are of superior quality.
It is in every respect an excellent collection. Price, 75 cents.
PROBLEMS #77 FARM WOODWORK.
By Samuel A. Blackburn. x
A book of working drawings of 100 practical problems relating to agriculture
and farm life. Especially valuable to the student or teacher of agriculture or
manual arts in rural schools and in high schools in agricultural communities,
and to the boy on the farm. There are 60 full-page plates of working drawings
each accompanied by a page or more of text treating of “Purpose,” “Material,”
“Bill of Stock,” “Tools,” “Directions,” and “Assembly.” A wonderfully practical
book. Price, $1.00.
T H E M A N U A L A R T S P R E S S
P E O R I A, I L L I N O I S
B O O K S for B O YS
The “Problems Series” of Working Drawings
Good for Either Home or School Use
PROBLEMS in FURNITURE MAKING.
By Fred D. Crawshaw.
The revised and enlarged edition of this well-known book contains 43 full-
page working drawings of articles of furniture. Every piece shown is suitable
for construction in high school classes, and is appropriate and serviceable in the
home. In addition to the working drawings, there is a perspective sketch of each
article completed. There are 36 pages of text giving notes on the construction of
each project, chapters on the “Design,” and “Construction” of furniture, and one
on “Finishes.” The last chapter describes 15 methods of wood finishing, all
adapted for use on furniture. Price, $1.00.
PROBLEMS in WOOD-TURNING.
By Fred D. Crawshaw.
In the first place this is a book of problems—25 plates covering spindle, face-
plate, and chuck turning. In the second place it is a textbook on the science
and art of wood-turning illustrated by fifty pen sketches. It gives the mathe-
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discussion of the principles of design as applied to objects turned in wood. It is
a clear, practical and suggestive book on wood-turning. Price, 80 cents.
PROBLEMS in MECHANICAL DRAWING.
By Charles A. Bennett. With drawings made by Fred D. Crawshaw.
A students' textbook consisting of 80 plates, classified into groups according
to principle and arranged according to difficulty of solution. It furnishes teachers
of classes beginning mechanical drawing with a large number of simple, practical
problems which have been selected with reference to the formation of good habits
in technique, the interest of the pupils and the subjects generally included in a
grammar and first-year high school course. Each problem is given unsolved and
therefore in proper form to hand to the pupil for solution. New edition. Price,
75 cents.
T H E M A N U A L A R T S P R E S S
P E O R I A, I L L I N O IS
B O O K S for B O YS
Some Choice Books for Home or
School Libraries -
HANDWORK in WOOD.
By William Noyes.
A handbook for teachers and a textbook for normal school and college stu-
dents. A comprehensive and scholarly treatise, covering logging, sawmilling, sea-
soning and measuring, hand tools, wood fastenings, equipment and care of the
shop, the common joints, types of wood structures, principles of joinery, and wood
finishing. 304 illustrations—excellent pen drawings and many photographs.
Price, $2.o.o.
WOOD and FOREST.
By William Noyes.
A companion volume to “Handwork in Wood,” by the same author. Especially
adapted as a reference book for teachers of woodworking. Not too. difficult for
use as a textbook for normal school and college students. Treats of wood, dis-
tribution of American forests, life of the forest, enemies of the forest, destruc-
tion, conservation and uses of the forest, with a key to the common woods by
Filibert Roth. Describes 67 principal species of wood with maps of the habitat,
leaf drawings, life size photographs and microphotographs of sections. Contains
a general bibliography of books and articles on wood and forest. Profusely il-
lustrated with photographs from the United States forest service and with pen
and ink drawings by Anna Gausmann Noyes and photographs by the author. 309
pages. Price, $3.o.o.
DESIGN and CONSTRUCTION in WOOD.
By William Noyes.
A book full of charm and distinction and the first to give due consideration
to the esthetic side of wood-working. It is intended to give to beginners prac-
tice in designing simple projects in wood and an opportunity to acquire skill in
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WOODWORK for SECONDARY SCHOOLS.
By Ira S. Griffith.
The most complete and comprehensive textbook on secondary school wood-
working ever published. Treats of Common Woods, Tools and Processes, Wood-
working Machines, Joinery, Wood-Turning, Inlaying and Wood Carving, Wood
Finishing, Furniture Construction, Pattern-Making. Although written for the
student, every teacher of high school or normal school woodwork will find this text
a valuable and necessary volume for reference use. It contains 370 pages and
580 special illustrations. Price, $1.75.
T H E M A N U A L A R T S P R E S S
P E O R I A, I L L I N O I S
i
i
**
||||||||
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