A 65041 1
ANGAS
SAVAGE
LIFE
AND
SCENES
IN
AUSTRALIA
AND
NEW ZEALAND
DU
A59
1847
v.2

}
MICHIGAN S
OF
MICE
ENTIA VEI
1817
AL·LIBRARIES · `
VERSITY
OF
MIC
VERSITY
HE
UND

ΛΙΣ
Tubby Smith, Elder & Co London.
George Fuck Angas.del
DAPTO ILLAWARRA NEW SOUTH WALES.
Day Hagher the Outer

SAVAGE LIFE AND SCENES
IN
AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND:
BEING AN ARTIST'S IMPRESSIONS OF COUNTRIES AND
PEOPLE AT THE ANTIPODES.
With numerous Ellustrations.
BY GEORGE FRENCH ANGAS,
AUTHOR OF "THE NEW ZEALANDERS ILLUSTRATED;" "SOUTH AUSTRALIA
ILLUSTRATED;" "A RAMBLE IN MALTA AND SICILY," &c.
IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. II.
JACKSON.Sc.
STRIKING THE WAR-BELL-NEW ZEALAND.
SECOND EDITION.
LONDON:
SMITH, ELDER, AND CO., 65, CORNHILL.
1847.
DU
101
A59
1847
V2
London:
Printed by STEWART and MURRAY,
Old Bailey.
3
- ༡ ༡
Thomp
ILLUSTRATIONS TO VOL. II.
Plate I.-Dapto-Illawarra, New South Wales
II.-Striking the War-Bell
III.-Scene on the Waikato at Kapou
IV.-Evening Encampment at Maurea
V.-Missionary Station at Pepepe
VI.-Tongariro Volcano and Roto-aire Lake
VII.-An Old Woman, with an Idiotic Child
VIII.-La Perouse's Monument
to face title page
""
title
""
page 28
33
""
""
37
""
121
""
""
184
"
99
194
IX.-Quarantine Burial-ground, at Spring Cove
"
» 201
X.-Aboriginal Carvings, Pl. 1
""
,, 274
XI.- Do.
do. Pl. 2
39
275
"
CONTENTS OF VOL. II.
CHAPTER I.
Journey into the Interior of New Zealand--The Waikato
·
Page 1
CHAPTER II.
Aotea-Kawhia-Ahuahu-Mokau-Pari-pari-Volcanic Region of
Wanganui
64
CHAPTER III.
Tuhua-Tongariro-Ruapahu-Taupo Lake-The Chief Te Heuheu
-Boiling Ponds and Springs-Te Rapa-Waitahanui-Roto-aire
Lake and Motupoi Pah
CHAPTER IV.
100
Tutukamauna-Volcanic Wilderness-Otawhao-The Church Mis-
sionary Station-Rev. J. Morgan-Raroera Pah-Ngahuruhuru
-Blind Solomon-Waipa-Return down the Waikato to Auck-
land
129
viii
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER V.
The Island of Kauwau and its Mines-The Bay of Islands-Honi Heki
-Kororarika-Voyage to New South Wales-A "Brickfielder"
-Arrival at Sydney-Voyage to Adelaide-Flinder's Island—
Return to Sydney-Portland Bay-Port Philip Heads, Page 163
Sydney and its Environs
CHAPTER VI.
186
CHAPTER VII.
The Aboriginal Inhabitants of New South Wales
. 210
CHAPTER VIII.
Journey to Illawarra-Liverpool-Campbeltown-Appen-Illawarra
Mountains-Dapto-Wooloongong
234
CHAPTER IX.
Voyage round Cape Horn-Rio Janeiro-Return to England-Con-
clusion
244
APPENDIX :—
1. Aboriginal Carvings, or Outline Tracings upon Rocks and
Headlands in the vicinity of Port Jackson (as yet ex-
plored)
•
2. Caves or Gunyahs
3. Boomerang
4. Corrobory
271
276
277
278
5. Memorandum relative to Words used by the Sydney Tribes 278
6. Burial
280
SAVAGE LIFE AND SCENES
IN
AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND.
CHAPTER I.
JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR OF NEW ZEALAND-
THE WAIKATO.
;
TRAVELLING in New Zealand is very different from
travelling in Australia, where the open nature of the
country enables one to ride for hundreds of miles in
almost any direction: in New Zealand the traveller
must go on foot, and so dense and extensive are many
of the mountain forests, that he has to cut or force
his way through them; whilst the frequent precipices,
swamps, and rivers, offer obstacles to his progress that
require some ingenuity to overcome.
Early in the spring of 1844, I set out on a journey
of upwards of eight hundred miles, on foot, to explore
VOL II.
B
2
JOURNEY TO THE INTERIOR.
various portions of the interior of the Northern Island;
and in the course of my progress I became acquainted
with many tribes, settled on the shores of inland lakes
and amidst sequestered valleys, whose character, and
existence even, are but little known to dwellers on
the coast. At setting out, and for the first portion of
my journey, up the Waikato river and along the wes-
tern coast, I was accompanied by my friend Forsaith,
one of the protectors of aborigines; who was on his
way overland to Taranaki, or New Plymouth, the
British settlement at the foot of Mount Egmont.
But when penetrating to the interior, and visiting the
districts of Mokau and the Taupo lakes, I was accom-
panied only by natives; and during the whole period
of my sojourn with the New Zealanders, I invariably
experienced both hospitality and protection. My
mission amongst them was one of peace: I did not
covet their land; and my coming from Europe for
the purpose of representing their chiefs and their
country was considered by them as a compliment.
The chiefs readily acceded to my requests, and facili-
tated the purpose of my journey; and I was every-
where known by the title of "Te pakeha no te Kene
Ingerangi," or "The stranger from the Queen of Eng-
land:" loudly and proudly did my native guides
herald my approach to a kainga maori with this
appellation.
The day of our starting from Auckland was calm
and cloudy: not a breath of wind ruffled the wide
expanse of the gulf; and as we brushed through the
FAREWELL SALUTATIONS.
3
fern and heather along our onward way, the stillness
was intense: the pervading silence was unbroken save
by the occasional flutter of a locust, and the low
rumbling, at intervals, of distant thunder. Clad in
our "bush" costume, but without weapons, and each
with a toko toko or long walking-staff in our hands, my
fellow-traveller and myself set off in excellent spirits,
accompanied by five Maori lads, who carried our bag-
gage; this consisted of bundles of clothing, sketching
apparatus, collecting boxes, a small tent, and a basket
of provisions: which they severally carried in their
pikau or knapsacks, strapped over their shoulders with
the leaves of flax. As we passed along, our lads ex-
changed farewell salutations with their native friends;
the latter shouting out, with a long condoling whiné,
“Haere ra! haera_ra !”—which means, "Go, my
friends! go!" This was returned by "Enoho!"-
"Remain, my friends! remain !”
Our route lay through the region of extinct vol-
canic craters, described in a former chapter. We
skirted the low shores of the harbour of Manukao, a
large but dangerous inlet from the west coast; and
the view of Manukao heads, with a high peaked
bluff, shut out the horizon to our right. On the
banks of this harbour, is the rich and extensive farm
belonging to Mr. Fairburn, who possesses an im-
mense territory in this district. The cattle were
grazing amongst the low fern, and looked remarkably
sleek, and in excellent order.
From this point, we struck into one of the native
B 2
4
FORDING A RIVER.
paths, which are never wide enough for two persons
to travel abreast; and after wading through several
swamps and flax marshes, in which we found our
long toko tokos of great assistance, we arrived at the
banks of the Tamaki river. The tide being out,
mud and slime covered the margin of the stream for
a considerable distance, and the sight of some stout
wild-ducks waddling along over these exposed flats,
made us regret we had no rifle to procure a few for
our supper.
Here we had no alternative but to
strip and ford the river, wading across the mud flats,
into which we sank at every step nearly up to our
middles. It was a difficult matter to get our feet out
of the mire, while thousands of small crabs kept
biting our legs as we toiled slowly through the
sludge, rendering our situation anything but an
enviable one. We at length regained the opposite
shore; and after scraping the mud off our limbs with
flax-leaves, we resumed our journey.
We passed several volcanic craters, with terraced
sides, near which blocks of lava were piled up
artificially; and many signs of ancient pahs were
observable, especially vast heaps of pepi-shells that
lay scattered in all directions around. The tea-tree
shrub (leptospermum) was in full bloom amongst
the fern; and a small flowering plant, with sharp
prickly leaves, its blossom a minute white bell,
exhaled a sweet spring perfume, scenting the air
with its delicious fragrance: yet the tiny source of
this grateful enjoyment was so concealed beneath
VOLCANIC REGION,
10
5
the moss and fern, as to require a diligent search
before its presence was discovered to the eye.
Our day's route lay through a sombre and desolate-
looking region, almost without trees. The undulating
country was clothed with russet fern, and bunches of
flax occurred in every direction, reminding one of
the aloe, which at a distance it somewhat resembles.
This entire district was once the scene of intense
volcanic action, to which the numerous funnel-shaped
craters before mentioned acted as safety-valves. An
occasional ti-tree (dracana) gives a foreign and palm-
like aspect to the swampy ground; and a small black
and white moth (agarista) flutters plentifully over the
fern and along the banks of bulrush and tohi tohi
swamps.
Towards the close of day, we arrived at the
termination of this volcanic and open district, and,
on the borders of a dark forest, we descried a small
clearing, with one or two huts belonging to European
settlers. We tried in vain at one of the huts to pro-
cure either a kit of potatoes or some flour as food for
our lads; the settlers being very poor, and pota-
toes exceedingly scarce, in this part of the country :
the great native feasts at Auckland a few months
ago had well nigh exhausted the stock, and there
will be no more until the spring crop comes up.
It was now sunset; and we suddenly struck into a
belt of forest—a glen of profuse vegetation-through
which the lingering beams of day were in vain.
struggling to penetrate. A break in the forest re-
6
A RETIRED SEA-CAPTAIN.
vealed to us an open space, through which a mur-
muring stream flowed, and the ruins of an undershot
water-mill, that had never seen completion, marked
the unsuccessful toil of some settler in the wild.
The full moon, like an amber shield, rose over the
dark wood, and its light stole through the crisp leaves
of the spreading tree-ferns, making them look ex-
tremely beautiful. The lone cry of the ko ko (a species
of goatsucker) echoed plaintively from amongst the
dense copse-like underwood, and the song of night-
birds amongst the fern, made a low, soft music,
that told of calm and peaceful solitudes. Suddenly
emerging from the wood, we again struck out into
an open fern country, along which we travelled by
the light of the moon, crossing swamps and small
streams gurgling beneath an overgrowth of luxuriant
flax bushes.
We sought refuge for the night under the hospi-
table roof of an old captain, who, from commanding
country ships in the opium trade, had exchanged
China, and India, and the luxury of the East, for a
humble barn in the forests of New Zealand. Our
host complained sadly of the depredations of the
natives, and positively assured us that their ill-
behaved dogs ate all his butter, which had been mee
with infinite trouble, by shaking up the cream in a
green glass bottle. His guns were kept cocked, in
case of an alarm; and the very people, amongst the
least civilized of whom I was going alone and un-
armed, were represented to us as a race of banditti.
LODGING IN A LOG-HUT.
7
Our native lads, tired and hungry, on arriving at the
end of their day's journey, dropped each one as usual
into the fern, with his flax-tied bundle on his back,
and, giving the accustomed grunt, each removed his
load.
Whilst the lads made themselves comfortable
beneath a raupo shed, at a short distance from the
barn, we betook ourselves to the shelter afforded us
by the worthy captain's hut, where we found his
family, with the usual accompaniments of a settler's
log cabin,-dogs, fleas, and a good blazing fire. Our
host, as is usual in Europe, conducted me to my
night's quarters. Lifting a piece of depending can-
vass, he requested me to crawl beneath it; this done,
I was enabled, by the light of the moon which was
shining full into this corner of the barn, to make a
complete survey of the crevice into which I had been
thrust by the overwhelming kindness of my host:
he would not for a moment think of my sleeping on
a heap of fern, which I greatly preferred, but oblig-
ingly compelled me to occupy "the best bed," which
was styled "the mattress,"-a filthy, ragged thing,
full of fleas, and without any covering. Two herds-
men, on an opposite tressel, with the moonlight
shining brightly upon their faces, lay snoring and
scratching themselves alternately with great vehe-
mence; troubled, no doubt, by the same nimble
parasites that blackened my "mattress," with their
countless hosts. Horrible noises in the thatch, which
the natives would probably have ascribed to the atuas,
afforded a subject for speculation, as I lay all night
8
SCARCITY OF FOOD.
with my eyes wide open, counting the mosquitoes I
had killed: sometimes I was inclined to think that
they were the greatest plague; but a vigorous sally
from the myriad inmates of the mattress "feelingly"
convinced me that they were not unrivalled, and
turned the fulness of my wrath against the wingless
foe. Longing for sunrise to banish my vile tormen-
tors, I envied Forsaith on his heap of fern; but in
the morning he told me that he too had slain his
thousands, and the trophies of his prowess lay scat
tered around him. During the day the namu, or
sand-fly, is almost as troublesome as the mosquito;
but it is instant death for them to bite me, as my
entomological propensities make me pretty certain
in my capture.
Sept. 27th.-At daybreak we gladly rose up, and were
off into the clear and dewy air of the morning. Pro-
ceeding onwards through fern and belts of forest, we
at length arrived at the banks of a rapidly flowing
river, which we crossed on the shoulders of our guides;
and soon afterwards we reached a small ruined pah,
on the slope of a hill, having around it several gro-
tesquely carved figures much decayed. At the native
settlement of Papakoura, we found but four indivi-
duals at home; food was very scarce, and the impro-
vident natives, for some time past, had been almost
starving; their early potato crops not yet being suffi-
ciently advanced to take them out of the ground.
With some difficulty, our lads obtained one basket of
potatoes, and made up the remainder of their meal
NATIVE AVERSION TO SALT.
9
with boiled sow-thistles. It is remarkable that the
natives will not eat salt, and though I have repeatedly
offered it to them, I have met with but a solitary in-
stance of their accepting it. On our approach to the
scattered huts constituting the settlement of Papa-
koura, a body of lean dogs attacked us with the
utmost demonstrations of fury; but after throwing a
few sticks at them they were crouching at our feet,
imploringly watching for a morsel of potato.
The thunder and lightning, which had been violent
during the morning, were succeeded by torrents of
rain that wetted us through; and as the slippery state
of the soil rendered walking along the native paths
very unpleasant, we found our toko tokos of consider-
able use, both as walking-staffs and also to feel our
way through the swamps and peat-bogs that we con-
stantly had occasion to cross. Onwards, through
gently undulating fern-land, interspersed with bushes
of phormium tenax and an occasional dragon-tree,
we again found belts of forest-land. The thunder
rattled angrily over the Maunuotu hills, and after
a thorough drenching, the weather once more
cleared up.
Amidst a grove of tree-ferns, the sight of a tent
agreeably surprised us; for we at first concluded that
it belonged to the native party who had conveyed one
of the missionaries, the Rev. Mr. Buddle and his
family, from Waipa to Auckland, in a sort of chairs
or litters (amo), "a la mode Sicilien ;" and this
party we were anxious to overtake, so as to be able
B 5
10
APTITUDE OF NATIVES FOR LEARNING.
to proceed with them in their canoes up the Wai-
kato river. The tent, however, proved to be that
of a surveyor, and several Maories were encamped
around it.
To-day we had several small rivers to cross the
yellow kowai tree, at this season of spring, covered
with a profusion of golden blossoms, ornamented the
banks of the streams with its gracefully bending stems.
We waded a broad and deep river, at the only fordable
spot we could discover, which was over very smooth
and slippery rocks; and the violence of the current
threatened to carry us off our legs into the foaming
rapids beneath. At noon we crossed another river,
twelve feet deep, by means of a narrow tree, along
which we passed, holding each other's hands, and
supported by our poles: on the opposite bank we
rested half an hour, and partook of a mouthful of
kai (food).
One of our natives constantly carries a slate in his
hand, and whenever we halt to rest, he amuses him-
self by working sums in arithmetic: he is now lying
at full length on the fern, busily engaged with a
calculation that Forsaith has set him; and my lad,
E Pera, is reading aloud from a native testament,
extremely fast. Not only do the young people, in
this way, improve themselves in education, but they
are very fond of teaching others; and many indivi-
duals in the interior, who had no instruction what-
ever from the missionaries, have acquired the arts of
reading and writing, merely by aid of these native
GAIETY OF NEW ZEALANDERS.
11
instructors, who have a pride in communicating their
new acquirements.
We now reached a river-a deep and sluggish
stream—and, as no trees were near, nor any means of
crossing except by stripping and plunging in, we
waited until our lads came up; they all soon divested
themselves of their shirts and trousers, which they flung
across to the opposite bank along with their poles and
blankets, and then waded the river with the luggage
on their heads, the water being up to their necks.
After conveying the bundles across, they returned
for ourselves, and carried us over, with our feet.
resting on one fellow's shoulders and our backs on
the head of another. It was ticklish work, and the
lads enjoyed it amazingly; joking my friend, who lay
remarkably still, by saying that they were carrying a
dead body. The Maories are remarkable for their
natural gaiety: they are merry fellows; always laugh-
ing and joking, especially during the adventures of a
journey, to which they are extremely partial: look
when you will they are sure to laugh, and though
they have had but little to eat to-day, they are full of
fun,
The soil of the district through which we passed
was a sandy loam; the country gently undulating,
covered with fern, and intersected by innumerable
gullies, filled up with swamps yielding flax and tohi
tohi grass.
Towards the afternoon, we came in sight of the
native settlement of Tuimata, prettily situated in a
12
DRESSING FOR A PORTRAIT.
rich valley on the borders of a kaikatea forest, part of
which had been cut down for a potato ground. Thẻ
natives prefer the soil reclaimed from the decayed
vegetation of the woods for their agricultural pur-
poses, and they take infinitely more pains in clearing
forest land than in rooting up the fern, as they con-
sider the soil of the former superior. At the kainga,
or native settlement, we found about thirty people,
together with the party returning to Waipa, whom
we had been so anxious to overtake. The chief, whose
baptised name was Haimona (Simon), a strong grey
haired man, sat to me for his portrait, as did also his
wife and child. After pitching our little tent, and
partaking of some food, I set to work, though the
rain again descended in torrents. I sat beneath the
shelter of a native verandah or porch, whilst my
patient sitters were exposed. to the rain. I resolved on
sketching Haimona's wife in the posture she had invo-
luntarily assumed whilst gazing intently at me as I
transferred the lineaments of her spouse to paper. She
lay at length upon the ground, exactly in the attitude
of a sea-lion (phoca) when basking in the sun. The
lady insisted, greatly to my dismay, in robing herself
for the occasion in a clean white chemise of European
fashion; and, putting aside her native habiliments,
down she lay upon the wet ground thus attired.
Although her vanity was thus singularly gratified, I
really pitied the poor woman: notwithstanding, it
was impossible to refrain from indulging in a hearty
laugh at the idea of a European lady, thus scantily
MAORI WORSHIP.
13
attired, lying for her portrait in the pouring rain in
such a posture. She appeared highly satisfied with
my sketch, as did the old chief who sat by my side!
saying it was "wakapaipai," or "beautiful;" whilst
all the time I was nearly stifled by the horrible odour
that issued from a vessel of stinking Indian corn: a
relish to which the natives are remarkably partial.
The rich tints of the evergreen forest were gilded
by a transient sunbeam, and just at sunset a rainbow
stretched across the eastern sky; the clouds cleared
off, and then the moonlight that succeeded this day
of storm was lovely and unclouded—the moon being
at its full. Our tent is pitched on a bed of chick-
weed, and spread thickly with fern by our lads,
which makes a delightful couch to repose on ; outside,
round the fire, our natives are going through their
multiplication table, and laughing and joking at
intervals as usual. At sunset, the natives went
through their karakia, or worship, which is per-
formed by the Christians every night and morning.
Not having a bell, the signal to prayers was given by
striking an iron pot with a stone; and presently
afterwards we heard their voices, all singing the
evening hymn in the Maori tongue. The native
teacher, a well-tattooed man, came to us after
prayers, and remained all the evening with his head
and shoulders thrust into our tent, talking with For-
saith, in the native language, about incorrectly trans-
lated passages of the New Testament.
Sept. 28th.-Started at six o'clock, and marched
14
EXUBERANT VEGETATION.
several miles before we halted to cook our breakfast.
The party returning to Waipa were already off, but
we overtook them at an old potato-ground, where
they were taking their morning's meal.
We crossed two native bridges over marshy creeks:
they were constructed by laying a great quantity of
fern across small trunks of trees, and brushwood
placed lengthwise. The appearance of the country
was here very picturesque; the hills became of a
more undulating aspect, clothed with deep forests,
and every now and then opening into tracts of fern:
from these clear spaces, the view of hill and dale,
and belted forest, bounded by the distant appearance
of Manukao harbour, with the faint and dim outline
of the extinct craters jutting up from the volcanic
region we had left far behind us, formed a singular
and pleasing scene.
We now entered a gloomy forest, the path through
which was rendered difficult and annoying by the
liands and roots of various climbers catching our feet.
at every step beneath the mud. In this forest, and
also in the next through which we passed, were
complete groves composed entirely of the beautiful
nikau palm (areca sapida) mingling with tree ferns
(cyathea and mahrattia) and the other exuberant
vegetable productions of these still and sombre dells;
which are shaded eternally from the sun by a lofty
canopy of kaikatia foliage overhead, and fed by the
ceaseless moisture that drops from every spray, and
renders these antipodean forests rank with vegeta-
FOREST SCENERY.
15
tion. Parasites sprout from the loftiest trees, and
mosses and ferns of numerous varieties clothe the
trunks with green, carrying a profusion of vegetable
life up into the topmost branches of the noblest
forest-trees. All is of the deepest green, and amidst
the gloom and shady recesses of these dense forests,
there reigns a solemn and almost unbroken stillness:
the fluting cry of the kaka (nestor meridionalis) or
the moonlight-accompanying voice of the ko ko but
occasionally sounding through these primeval soli-
tudes. Truly beautiful at this season of the year are
the clustering blossoms of the large white clematis,
hanging here and there high overhead, twining round
some stately trunk, or spread like a snowy mantle
over its leafy summit, and anon descending in chains
of bloom, wreathing fantastic garlands around the
brushwood.
We halted for our morning meal amidst the
charred stumps that marked an old potato-ground,
the rich soil of which was overrun with wild cabbage
now in blossom. Huiputea, the chief who led the
party, spread some nikau leaves for us to sit upon,
and, opening our provision box, we commenced
breakfast. We had, in addition, potatoes roasted in
rows upon sharp sticks; and one of the natives con-
tributed a beautiful pigeon, of a large size, which he
had just brought down with his musket. Before he
could reach the fires, little Hori, son of Huiputea,
snatched out the tail of the bird, and commenced
sticking the feathers upright in his hair, and another
"
16
THE NIKAU PALM.
of the natives covered his head with tufts of the
snow-white feathers from its breast. The delicate
rose-coloured feet of this pigeon, are used by the
natives of the Southern Island to stain their cheeks
red.
We again entered a dense forest, frequently travel-
ling through mud which was knee deep, where the
tangled roots and liands caught our feet continually;
and for some miles we pushed onwards in this manner:
now toiling up a steep and slippery bank, then climb-
ing over a fallen kaikatea tree, or descending from
root to root down a ravine, holding on by the trees
in our descent; and presently after crossing some
swollen torrent dashing over blocks of stone of a
volcanic character.
One of our lads felled a nikau palm (areca sapida);
and cut out the heart, of which we all partook : it
was refreshing, and tasted rather pleasant than other-
wise, its flavour somewhat resembling that of the
cocoa-nut. This portion of the palm-tree is eagerly
sought after by the New Zealanders, who fell every
tree which they consider likely to contain a young
and succulent heart: the leaves are also much used
for thatching the temporary sheds which they erect
whilst travelling in the forest; likewise frequently
for roofing their houses and cooking-huts in the
plantations. The nikau palms are consequently fast
decreasing, and this graceful tree will probably soon
disappear, unless means are taken to preserve its
growth in all directions we saw destroyed stems,
:
BEAUTIFUL AND FRAGRANT SHRUB.
17
and their broad pinnated leaves lay scattered on the
ground. Our party halting amidst a grove of nikau
palms, formed a wild and picturesque group.
The rain fell in torrents during the morning, and
the dripping forest resembled a shower-bath. Fern
and forest-land alternated all the way, until we came
in sight of the Waikato river, meandering through a
rich country, amidst hills clothed with trees. It was
a welcome sight, as here we knew that our journey
on foot would be interrupted for a day or two; having
to ascend the river in canoes to Waipa. On entering
the last forest, before we arrived at the margin of the
river, a delicious fragrance, like that of hyacinth
and jessamine mingled, filled the warm still air
with its perfume. It arose from the petals of a
straggling shrub, with bright green shining leaves,
resembling those of the nutmeg-tree; and a profusion
of rich and delicate blossoms, looking like waxwork,
and hanging in clusters of trumpet-shaped bells: I
observed every shade of colour amongst them, from
pinkish white to the deepest crimson, and the edges
of the petals were irregularly jagged all round. The
natives call this plant horopito.
On reaching the banks of the Waikato, we found
that one large canoe had already started with a por-
tion of our native escort, who were pushing on to
reach Koruakopupu before sunset: there, being Chris-
tian natives, they intended to spend the Sabbath,
which was on the following day.
The yellow kowai tree, which, at this season, was one
18
THE WAIKATO.-CANOES.
mass of golden blossoms, grew abundantly near the
water's edge: some of our natives gathered bunches
of it, and suspended them as ornaments in their ears.
The Waikato river, at this spot, cannot be less than four
hundred yards in breadth, and it flows onwards with
a rapid current of at least five miles an hour, towards
the west coast.
Our canoe, which was hewn out of a solid tree, was
of that kind used for river conveyance, called kau-
papa: it is quite simple, deep, and trough-like, with-
out either the ornamental carving or the painting of
kokowai that adorn the war-canoe and the gaily
decorated waka of the harbours on the coast. It
was from forty to fifty feet in length, but the breadth
did not exceed two feet and a half. The bottom of
the canoe, well strewn with fern, received our lug-
gage and various packages belonging to the natives.
The number of our party amounted to about twenty-
five, and away we started for Koruakopupu; keeping
near the bank to avoid meeting the strength of the
current, which flows most rapidly towards the middle
of the river. Our people, stripped to the waist, each
with a mat round his loins, paddled away most lus-
tily; and we glided on swiftly, propelled by at least
a dozen paddles.
As we proceeded, the most luxuriant vegetation
overspread the banks of the river, and even extended
into the water. Gigantic flax and the tohi tohi grass,
with its razor-edged leaves, formed a complete jungle;
whilst the dragon or ti-trees, in full beauty, imparted
LUXURIANT VEGETATION.
19
quite a foreign character to the scene. An occasional
nikau shed appeared on the margin of the stream,
beneath groves of dragon-trees and kahikatoa pine.
The graceful rimu, and the koroi pine, seventy or
eighty feet in height, mingle their evergreen foliage,
and occasionally a small cowdie-tree appears here and
there; though the Waikato is the southern limit of
this magnificent timber-pine. Our natives, anxious.
to reach the village where we were to halt on the
Sabbath (for the missionary natives very seldom travel
on that day), pulled merrily, timing the strokes of
their paddles with a chant, shouted with deafening
noise; one responding to another: their loud and
barbarous singing may be heard at a great distance
on the water. The burden of our paddlers' chant
was, "Pull away, pull away-this is not pulling,"
but occasional improvised allusions to any casual
object we might be passing varied the song, and had
an inspiriting effect on the rowers.
It was a calm and lovely evening, and nothing
broke the serenity of its repose but the splashing of
the paddles as our canoe dashed onwards. How
many a scene of barbarous and warlike times has this
noble river been witness to! Fleet after fleet of gaily
decorated war-canoes have passed up and down its
surface, from the places of slaughter, reeking with
blood, perhaps deeply laden with human flesh, and
filled with savage heroes, whose war-shouts and yells of
triumph disturbed the stillness of the lovely scenes of
nature around them. But now the picture is changed.
20
INFLUENCE OF MISSIONARY TEACHING.
A far different era has dawned upon the descen-
dants of those fierce warriors. The New Zealanders
are no longer a fighting people; they find raising
supplies for the Europeans a far more pleasant and
profitable occupation. The good effects arising from
the influence of the missionaries is apparent, even
if civilization had been their only aim. The New
Zealanders are an intelligent and interesting race;
they have fine minds and good dispositions; and if
properly treated, no people can behave better. Much
has been foolishly alleged against them, by individuals
who are entirely ignorant of the true character and
meritorious conduct of many of the Maories.
Pieces of pumice-stone, carried by the current
from the Lake of Taupo, where the river has its
real source, are constantly floating down with the
stream of the Waikato: they are the products of
the great active volcano of Tongariro, which is the
centre of volcanic agency in the northern island of
New Zealand.
We landed at a small pah or settlement, close to
the right bank of the river, which proved to be Korua-
kopupu; here we pitched our tent, overlooking the
broad surface of the Waikato, at about half a dozen
yards from its brink. The fear of too many visita-
tions from that active parasite, the flea (cleverly
styled "e pakea nohinohi," or "the little stranger," by
the natives, who say it was introduced by the Euro-
peans), prevented our encamping within the enclo-
sure of the pah; we were, however, annoyed by the
“e
SAND-FLIES.
21
mosquitoes during the night; and no sooner had the
sun risen, and we issued from our tent to wash by
the river side, than those peculiarly vexatious pests,
the sand-flies (namu), commenced their attacks on
our bare hands and feet. The sand-fly is a small
black insect, and swarms in such myriads, that one is
never free from their vengeance, if remaining for a
single instant in the same position: whilst sketching,
my hands are frequently covered with blood, and their
numbers being inexhaustible, one at last gets weary
of killing them.
At this village I made a sketch of a chief named
Te Taepa, who was on a visit at this kainga: he was
employed, on my approaching him, in plucking out
the slightest remaining vestiges of his beard with a
pair of shells, which answered the purpose of tweezers.
Whilst taking his portrait, an acquaintance of his
entered the verandah, and the cordial salutation of
hungi, or "pressing noses," took place: it appeared
to be a particularly fond salute, for they continued
pressing their noses together, more or less violently,
for a considerable time, uttering numerous comfort-
able little grunts during the ceremony.
Just outside the railings of the pah stands a "ware
puni," or "hot-house," for strangers to sleep in. Our
lads occupied this lodging, which they heated nearly
to suffocation with a large fire, and then closing the
door and window, they crawled in, and lay huddled
together all night in an atmosphere that would stifle
almost any European: in the morning they came out
22
HOSPITALITY OF THE NATIVES.
into the sharp, cold, dewy air, with the perspiration
dripping profusely from their bodies. This practice
is, doubtless, one of the many causes of consumption
being so prevalent amongst this people: another,
as has been before remarked, is the introduction of
blankets as articles of clothing.
The hospitality of the Maories to strangers is prover-
bial; travellers are always welcomed amongst them.
Tobacco is the only money needful for a European
in passing through the country; a present of a small
quantity of this weed, on leaving, being considered
as an ample remuneration for food and shelter: for a
fig of tobacco they will willingly furnish a dozen eggs,
or a basket of potatoes or kumeras. It is only on the
coast, in the vicinity of the European settlements,
that the natives require utu, or payment in coin.
The evening bell sounded for worship within the
pah, and the native teacher, Wirihona, or Wilson,
read prayers to his party. Our lads cooked an excel-
lent supper for us; consisting of masses of small
fish enclosed in flax-leaves, and tied up in bundles :
these packages were placed upright before the fire,
against a frame of sticks, and were kept turned round
until sufficiently cooked, when they emptied out of
the broad leaves beautifully done, and we thought
them the most delicious supper imaginable. During
our repast, a facetious native popped his head into
the tent, and exclaimed, "How fast you are eating
your suppers!"-and next morning, whilst breakfast-
ing in front of our tent, we gave a plateful of frag-
SABBATH MORNING WORSHIP.
23
ments to several lads who were watching our opera-
tions, when one of them shrewdly remarked, "The
dogs eat the crumbs that fall from their master's
table; so we are eating your leavings." They are
naturally witty, and fond of a joke or repartee.
Sept. 29th.-During the night we had heavy rain,
and the clouds hung low upon the hills this morning;
the air in the neighbouring woods was rendered quite
fragrant with the horopito, and the dark trees were
reflected on the breathless surface of the Waikato.
Several canoes, filled with natives, arrived from the
opposite side of the river for morning worship, and
returned again after the service was concluded. The
worship was conducted with great apparent propriety
and decorum, and the hearers were devout and atten-
tive. There were three services during the day; and
the Sabbath appeared to be more strictly regarded
by these people than it is amongst Europeans in
general. The horrid sand-flies attacked us to-day
more unmercifully than ever, and in such clouds
that I should imagine them to be a species very
nearly allied to those that constituted the fourth
plague of Egypt. It became necessary to send away
the chief's little boy from the doorway of our tent,
as the stench arising from a cake that he was
eating, made of shark and putrid maize, was more
than any nose that had the most remote claim to
civilization could in any way tolerate. The children
soon afterwards began to cram themselves with hinau
cakes,—a black, filthy mass, consisting of the fruit
24
PUTRID CAKES.
of the hinau tree compressed together, and kept till
quite rotten and musty, which they eat with avidity.
With the exception of the putrid corn, one can hardly
imagine anything more disgusting: they tell us it is
good for them, but would not suit the pakeha. From
the bark of the hinau tree is extracted the rich black
colour with which they dye the strings of their mats,
and the black portions of the wood-work of their
canoes.
Sept, 30th.-Up at half-past five: the morning
calm, and the dewy mists hanging in broad masses
over the still, deep-flowing Waikato. At six, the
bell of the pah sounded for morning prayers, and
one by one the natives, wrapped in their blankets and
mats, silently emerged from their various dwellings,
and came dropping into the house appropriated for
worship, with their books in their hands. Whilst
sketching, I was much annoyed by stupid natives
and dogs: I obtained only two portraits, and left
one half finished to partake of a hurried breakfast;
the natives being all impatience to start.
Our party
consisted of two canoes full, comprising about forty
persons: the canoe in which we took our places was
very deeply laden, and contained twenty-four pad-
dlers, besides my friend and myself. The inhabitants
of the pah who remained behind sat in groups
along the banks, or upon the tops of their houses:
perched here and there, they resembled so many
haycocks in their kokahus, or coarse flax garments.
About a mile from Koruakopupu we halted a few
NATIVE LANDMARK.
25
minutes at a small settlement, where a white man
and his family resided amongst the natives: the
whole population were here and there scattered
about in groups, either squatting on the ground or
seated on their canoes or logs of wood, watching the
arrival of our party.
The magnificence of vegetation in the forests along
the margin of the river, cannot fail to strike the eye
of a lover of nature with wonder and delight: deep,
rich, and varied are the tints of the evergreen woods
of New Zealand. The large white stars of the
clematis are wreathed like garlands round the sombre
foliage of the tall trees; and the golden blossoms of
the kowai are scattered in showers over the bosom of
the stream, from the drooping tresses that bear them.
At one settlement which we passed, there was a
singular fishing-net near the water's edge, suspended
upon poles: its shape resembled that of a boat, and
its fine meshes were composed of the fibres of the
phormium. At another spot I observed a rohi, or
native landmark, formed of three upright stakes or
poles, curiously decorated with bunches and festoons
of the dried stems of a climber.
Whilst paddling, many of the natives wear a tatua
or belt, made of flax, in black and white angular
designs, ornamented with tufts of red wool: it is
broad in the centre, tapering to a point at each end,
and is fastened round the waist like a girdle.
Several low, sedgy islands occur in the river: they
are all covered with gigantic flax, tohi tohi grass,
VOL. II.
C
26
FLOATING MASSES OF PUMICE.
wild cabbage, and bulrushes. The large coarse flax
growing on the banks of the river is used by the
natives in manufacturing the kokahu, or rough winter
garment. The flax for making the kaitaka and finer
varieties of mats, is usually cultivated for that pur-
pose, by which means the fibre becomes much more
silky and beautiful.
As we glided onwards, the scenery was in places
varied by open fern-hills, with peeps of the distant
blue ranges beyond. Now and then the quan-
tity of pumice floating down with the current of the
stream was so great as to have gathered with the
drift-wood and duck-weed, and formed considerable
masses, which occasionally impeded the progress of
our canoe; as we kept near the banks to avoid the
strong current against us which flowed in the centre
of the river. Our canoe was too deeply laden; and,
though we were in still water, its edge was frequently
not more than a couple of inches above the surface
of the stream. The paddles were plied with great
spirit; the exertions of the natives being stimulated
by the animated shouting song kept up incessantly
by one or another of the party. At length the
splashing was so violent that we became nearly
drenched; and on requesting the Maori before us to
throw less water in our faces, he replied with a
proverb amongst them, that" no one is dry who
travels with the Waikatos;" meaning that the people
of this tribe excel all others in the speed and dex-
terity with which they manage their canoes. Our
}
CANOE SONGS.
27
natives were in excellent spirits; they had been on
a long journey to Auckland, where they had seen
the pakeha (white man or stranger) in his settlement,
and had witnessed many sights of civilization to
which they were previously strangers; they had
also purchased articles of European manufacture,
and were longing to return home to the peaceful
banks of the Waipa, to present them to their friends
as tokens of their regard. Their wild, deafening
songs, with their heads all undulating at every stroke,
the contortions of their eyes, and their bare tawny
shoulders, finely developing their muscles as they all
dashed their paddles simultaneously into the water,
rendered the scene at once novel and animating.
The canoe songs are generally improvised, and fre-
quently have reference to passing objects: such
ejaculations as the following were uttered by our
companions at the highest pitch of their voices:-
"Pull away, pull away, pull away!"—" Dig into the
water!"—" Break your backs !" &c. From the prow
of one of the canoes a native flute sounded plain-
tively: this is a very rude and imperfect instrument,
and they do not play it with any degree of skill, it
having only two or three notes. The native art of
balancing a canoe is extremely nice, the slightest
preponderance of weight on either side being suffi-
cient to upset it. From a want of proper caution
in having the canoe exactly balanced, Europeans
have frequently lost their lives by being capsized.
Meeting a large canoe on the river, well manned, as
c 2
28
PURIRI TREE.--KAPAU.
it approaches end on, with all the paddles dashing
into the water at once, has a curious effect; giving
one the idea of a huge centipede moving along.
The dark glossy foliage of the puriri tree formed
groves in some places on the banks of the river: the
colour of the leaf appears of the richest purplish-
green, almost approaching to black, and is very
ornamental; the blossom is of a delicate lilac, some-
times approaching to rose-colour, and resembles in
`shape that of the snap-dragon; the timber is ex-
tremely hard, like iron-wood, and is employed by
the natives in the construction of several of their
weapons and implements.
We landed at Kapau, where are a few old huts
and a grove of dragon-trees (ti), on the left bank of
the river. Whilst our friends were employed in
kindling fires, and cooking food for their mid-day
meal, I made a sketch of the spot, thus suddenly
transformed from a solitude to a lively and animated
scene. Our lads, as usual, roasted our bacon in thin
slices, between two sticks tied with flax; and potatoes
were plentiful. During our repast, one old man
perseveringly sat close to my side, plucking out his
beard with a pair of tweezers.
Railed enclosures of some twenty feet square are
erected in the water, near these river-side settlements,
expressly for the purpose of preparing the favourite
stinking corn. The cobs of maize are placed, when
in a green state, in flax baskets, and put under the
water for some weeks, until quite putrid: they are

UNIL
OF
MIC
CH
Pubby Smith, Elder & Co London.
George French Angus.delt
ON THE WAIKATO AT KAPOU
Day& Hache, hth to fhe Queen
PREPARATION OF PUTRID CORN.
29*
then taken out as occasion may require, and made
up into the disgusting cakes before mentioned. At
other times the putrid mass is put into a kohue, or
large pan, and, when mixed with water and boiled
over the fire, is converted into a species of gruel
that sends forth an effluvia over the whole settlement,
No one who has been fortunate enough never to
experience the vile odour arising from corn thus pre-
pared, can form any idea of its extreme offensiveness.
After halting for a couple of hours, we again
started. The canoes were all full of men, women,
and children; and at the head of Wirihona's canoe sat
his little son, with a small fire before him, carried
between some pieces of dry bark: the child, pad-
dling away, formed a living figure-head to the sharp
and frail vessel as it glided onwards. Next came the
elder children, all arranged according to their sizes :
the bigger ones placed where the canoe widened
towards the centre; and on the flat projecting end
of the stern sat the chief, steering dexterously with a
paddle. The latter part of the afternoon was splen-
did the showers had cleared off, and large white
rollers of cloud lay gathered up over the distant
mountains, leaving the canopy overhead of a deep
and pure azure.
The graceful tui, or parson-bird (prosthemadera
Nova Selandica) sported amongst the yellow blossoms
of the kowai-the tuft of white feathers on its breast,
from which it derives its name, contrasting with the
glossy black of the rest of its plumage; and occasion-
་
30
A MAORI LADY OF THE LAKE.
"
ally one of the beautiful New Zealand pigeons (car-
pophaga Nova Selandica), disturbed while feeding on
the berries growing near the stream, would flutter away
into the darker recesses of the forest. The wild-ducks
were numerous, and so tame that they frequently
allowed us to approach within a few yards of them.
We fell in with an old woman most actively moving
about in a very small canoe, who used her paddles
in high style, and ran in between our two canoes.
She then commenced a tangi, or crying match, as a
salute, with one or two of her friends who happened
to be of the party; still paddling, and continuing her
dismal tangi. Having put a basket of potatoes on
board as a present, she received in return a fig of
tobacco; the tangi concluded, she turned about,
laughing merrily, and, handling her paddles as briskly
as before, was soon out of sight, as we turned an
angle of the stream.
The natives are all remarkably fond of smoking;
and it amused us greatly to observe a sickly-looking
child in Wirihona's canoe, who wore a straw-hat
without any brim, constantly carrying a little fancy
pipe in his mouth. At rare intervals, this pipe gets
a shred of tobacco, but for hours, and perhaps days,
it remains empty; still, however, adorning the mouth
of its juvenile possessor.
We passed several primitive landmarks on the
margin of the river, one being composed of three
upright posts, with balls of mange mange-a dried
creeper-fastened upon the top, and festoons of the
•
PERILOUS PASSAGE.
31
same material connecting the posts. Sometimes these
landmarks are formed by planting harikeke, or flax,
in rows in a straight line. This is generally done in
valuable land, such as ground fitted for kumeras, &c.
We observed numerous small settlements (kainga
maori) on both banks of the river. Many appeared
deserted, the natives being temporarily absent at their
cultivations and potato-grounds; but one of these
villages boasted a solitary old woman, whose little
pig was in faithful attendance at her heels.
At the junction of the Puatia River with the Wai-
kato, the scenery around assumes a bleak and open
character: undulating fern hills, destitute of wood,
slope to the water's edge, and a range of blue moun-
tains bounds the view to the eastward. The Waikato
here is much broader than at Tuakau, the spot where ⚫
we first embarked on its bosom. Some wide, open
reaches were to be passed, and our canoes had to
cross the current diagonally to the opposite bank.
The wind now blew violently, and, meeting the
current, caused an unpleasant sea in the middle
channel of the river. Our heavily laden canoe was
not fitted to encounter anything beyond still water;
and as our natives related to each other where this
and that canoe were upset, they dashed their paddles
into the water with all their energy, and our bark
was soon in the midst of the troubled current. We
were every moment in imminent danger of being
swamped the water washed in on both sides, and
nothing but the extreme swiftness with which we
*
32 FRIENDLY GREETINGS OF TWO OLD CRONES.
glided through the current prevented us from filling.
As the canoe darted against the opposite shore, our
natives gave a loud shout, and commenced baling
out the water, which we had shipped in great quanti-
ties, with a tatau, or scoop. We now looked anxiously
towards the second canoe, and watched them literally
pulling for their lives, splashing and dashing with the
utmost vehemence. The frail bark appeared almost
swallowed up by the angry stream; but she glided
securely through, and the drenched chief and his
family repeated the shout of welcome to the opposite
shore, as their canoe also darted in safety against its
banks.
We landed for the night at a small kainga, where
we pitched our tent, close to some neat graves belong-
ing to the Christian natives. These were railed
round with a double fence of low pailings. An en-
closure of corn looked well, and several peach-trees
grew at the other extremity of the settlement. Our
numerous party, as usual, busied themselves in
preparing a sufficient supply of food; a large oven
of heated stones, heaped over with earth, contained
the general supper, and was surrounded by all the
busy old women, squatting in the smoke and antici-
pating the opening of the oven. The wife of Wiri-
hona met the wife of an inferior chief, who was an
old acquaintance, which led to a warm tangi between
the two parties; but, after sitting opposite to each
other for a quarter of an hour or more, crying bitterly
with a most piteous moaning and lamentation, the

M
Pul by Smith Elder & C London..
George French Angus, del
EVENING
SCENE
Dayk Hach to the use
4
MAORI BREAKFAST.
33
tangi was transformed into a hungi, and the two
old ladies commenced pressing noses, giving occa-
sional satisfactory grunts. During all this time, no
one around appeared to take the slightest notice of
the ceremony: neither the crocodile tears of the
first salute, nor the loving caresses of the second,
aroused any sympathy in the hearts of the surround-
ing spectators.
While making my sketch of this rustic kainga, the
setting sun lit up the fern and distant hills with
ruddy purple, and the evening tints reminded me of
Australian scenery; such was the brilliancy of their
hues. A keen westerly wind was blowing, and the
night was sharp and clear. At sunset an iron pot
was again struck in lieu of a bell, and the natives
assembled in a circle in the open air, around a blazing
fire, for their evening karakia or worship.
Oct. 1st.-The morning was shrouded in thick
dewy mist, that fell like small rain, and the black
and white moths fluttered drowsily in the raw cold
air. The ovens were now opened, and great was the
bustle and business of breakfast. Several natives
were cooking fern root in the fire, in pieces of about
a foot long; after being sufficiently roasted, the root
is scraped clean with a mussel-shell: it has an earthy
and rather medicinal flavour, and is full of black and
stringy fibres. An old slave woman was shelling
mussels (anadon) most expeditiously: she scooped
out the fish with another mussel-shell, and it was
astonishing to watch the extreme rapidity with which
c 5
34
THE KUMERA.
she emptied the shells of their contents. Another
old woman was assisting her, whose breasts were
most elaborately tattooed with small straight lines.
We obtained some fine kumeras for breakfast.
These are the choicest of the New Zealanders' pro-
duce, and their whatas, or stores for these vegetables
are frequently more carved and adorned than the
houses they dwell in. The kumera in shape resem-
bles a kidney potato, its flavour is sweet, and it con-
tains a quantity of starch. Our companions cooked
slices of stinking shark with their potatoes, and the
women having made baskets of green flax for the
reception of the food, a supply was carried forward
in the canoes, so that the whole day we were regaled
with the filthy effluvia of putrid shark.
At a small kainga one of our party left us, with his
musket and basket of et ceteras, wading through the
marshy flax and bulrushes to gain terra firma, and say-
ing "how d'ye do" in English as a farewell salute to his
companions. Away he went, pushing through the
fern, and we speeded onwards towards Kaitote, the
pah of the celebrated Te Whero Whero, who is the
principal chief of all the Waikato tribes.
Kaitote is famous for its fine kumera grounds. The
banks of the river are low, and fern extends to the water's
edge, with about three or four feet of light vegetable
soil, or sand, through which the roots of the fern
extend, thickly matted together. Towards the after-
noon the scenery changed: steep wooded hills de-
scended towards the stream, and the mountain of
Taupiri, famous as a landmark of old renown, reared
KAITOTE PAH.
35
its pyramidal cone before us; its sides were clothed
with thick forests, and at its base, on the opposite
bank of the river, stood Te Whero Whero's pah of
Kaitote. The site of an ancient fortification occu-
pies a hill close to Taupiri. The land around Kai-
tote has been the scene of many a desperate fight,
and extensive cannibal feasts have taken place on
the very ground where we halted to dine. Numerous
whatas, or elevated repositories, are scattered about
this district; and the natives have extensive cultiva-
tions of potatoes, kumeras, Indian corn, and occa-
sionally wheat. There was not a single native at
Kaitote on our arrival: in company with their chief,
they were all at their extensive kumera grounds on
the Waipa, at a place called Whata Whata. As
usual, I explored the remotest corners of the pah, in
search of anything new for my pencil, and seeing a
square deal box elevated on posts and covered
with a roof raised by means of slender sticks, I was
curious to know what it contained; it was evi-
dently tapu, and on lifting up the lid I found that it
was filled with old garments, which I afterwards
learned were the property of a very celebrated person
lately deceased, and that these garments had been
placed within this wahi tapu, under the most rigorous
tapu, by the tohunga: who would probably have
pulled my ears had he discovered me peeping at these
sacred relics. In another portion of this settlement
were several neat Christian graves, around which
had been planted tufts of the white and blue iris,
now in full blossom.
36
WAR CANOES.
Kaitote pah consists of an open quadrangle, with
houses ranged on each side in the primitive style,
the whole surrounded by a lofty palisade of wooden
posts, having an entrance at each end. At one end
of the pah stands a chapel, built of tohi tohi grass, by
the Christian portion of the inhabitants; and Te
Whero Whero, though not professing Christianity
himself, frequently attends the worship held here by
the missionary.
Three very large canoes were drawn up on the
bank of the river, just outside the pah: the largest,
about 70 feet in length, was gaily painted red, and
ornamented with a profusion of white feathers, and
the head and stern post were richly carved. The
canoes were all thatched over with raupo, to protect
them from the weather. Like other nations, the
New Zealanders have various high-sounding names
by which they designate their war canoes: the one
in question was styled "Maratuhai," which signifies
literally "a slaying or devouring fire."
A walk across the country of about two miles again
brought us to a bend of the river, where we arrived
at the Church Missionary Station of Pepepe, the
residence of Mr. Ashwell. We had thunder and
heavy rain, and the mists hung about the lofty
wooded hills that surround this enchanting spot.
Our walk was a very wet one, through swampy flax
and fern, and we were obliged to cross one swamp
on the shoulders of the natives.
Numbers of pigs were feeding amongst the fern.
The fern root gives to their flesh a delicate flavour

UNIL
OF
Tubby Smith, Elder & C London.
George French Angas, del:
PEPEFE CHURCH MISSIONARY STATION
On the Waikato River New Zealand
Day Haghs to the Queene
MISSIONARY STATION AT PEPEPE.
37
unknown to other pork, so that it more nearly re-
sembles veal. The New Zealand pigs are generally
black; and, on the approach of a European, they
erect their bristles, and, grunting, gallop off like wild
boars. In the vicinity of deserted pahs, and in the
forests, wild pigs are numerous and fierce, and fre-
quent accidents have occurred from their attacking
the natives when in pursuit of them.
We saw
large piles of bushes in stacks amongst the kumera
grounds through which we passed: they are used
for sheltering the tender plants when young. Great
care is required in rearing this precious vegetable,
owing to its susceptibility to frosts and severe
winds.
At a bend of the river, the romantic cottage of the
missionary suddenly appeared in view. It was as
lovely and secluded a spot as it is possible to ima-
gine: the little cottage built of raupo, with its white
chimneys, and its garden full of flowers-of sweet
English flowers, roses, stocks, and mignonette-was
snugly perched on an elevated plateâu overhanging
the Waikato; and the access to it was by a small
bridge thrown across a glen of tree ferns, with a
stream murmuring below.
The interior of the cottage, which was constructed
entirely by the natives, under the direction of Mr.
Ashwell, is lined throughout with reeds, and divided
into a number of small rooms communicating one
with another. The cottage, the situation, the people,
and everything around them, were picturesque.
38
A MISSIONARY AND HIS FAMILY.
Pepepe signifies butterfly: and surely the name is
not misapplied to this lovely spot.
The missionary and his wife received us with the
utmost hospitality, and we remained with these wor-
thy people during the next day.
I had not long entered the house before a sweet
little girl, with a very fair complexion and long
flaxen ringlets, came running up to me.
It was
pleasant to hear, in this secluded spot, the prattle
of a little English child: she lisped to us of the roses
she had been gathering, and said that the rain had
made them so pretty.
Thus the prattler went on; when I observed in
the next apartment, upon a sofa, a delicate and
sickly boy, who was suffering from a disease of the
heart. "Do you paint portraits?" inquired the
father of me, with a look of almost agonizing ear-
nestness. I guessed his meaning, and glanced at the
sick boy on the pink sofa. He said no more; but I
felt that it was in my power to make the hearts of
those anxious parents happy; for I knew they ex-
pected to lose their child. It is a blessed thing to
have the power of contributing one's mite towards
mitigating the trials of the missionary. On the fol-
lowing morning, I made a sketch of the boy; the
father was overjoyed, and the mother's looks told
what she had not words to express.
Beside the dark Waikato's stream,
That mother watched her dying child;
Brooding, as one in fitful dream,
With mingled hopes and fancies wild.
STANZAS.
And as the boy grew thin and weak,
He grew more beautiful and fair;
And the bright flush upon his cheek
Told Death had set his signet there.
She murmured not; for she had seen
The wild waves closing o'er the dead,
Famine and flame, where she had been-
Hopes crushed, and joys for ever fled.
Her woman's heart, by love made strong,
Had fearless sought that southern shore;
And the dark race she dwelt among
Were strangers to the Word no more.
She murmured not, though, one by one,
Her every tie to earth was riven;
For always, as the day was done,
The fading sunlight told of heaven.
Like Hagar and the desert child,
She bowed before her Maker's will;
A stranger in the distant wild,
Beside that river dark and still.
And as she watched her dying boy,
His young life ebbing day by day,
A kind of melancholy joy
Would often through her musings stray:
Though in the forest's calm retreat,
Upon his grave the flowers might bloom;
She knew that they once more should meet
Beyond the quiet of the tomb.
*T was a sweet place wherein to die-
Too bright a spot to call a grave-
Beneath the tree fern's shade to lie,
Beside Waikato's murmuring wave.
39
40
THE CHRISTIAN CHIEF TE PAKI.
During my stay at Pepepe, the missionary sent for
Te Paki, the old chief next in importance in the
Waikato districts to Te Whero Whero: he arrived,
with his wife, in a small canoe, from a kainga about
three miles up the river; and they had both arrayed
themselves in their primitive costume, for the pur-
pose of sitting to me for their portraits. Paki was
formerly a great priest, or tohunga, and one of the
most eloquent speakers in Waikato. About ten
years since, he began to entertain favourable opinions
respecting Christianity; but a considerable time
elapsed before he could break through his supersti-
tious and heathen customs: the tapu had nearly as
strong a hold upon his mind, as the idea of caste has
upon that of the Hindoo. At length he was in-
duced to learn to read; his own son offering to be
his teacher. After this he entered into a violent
dispute that arose respecting some land, and, for
a time, appeared inclined altogether to forsake his
newly adopted religion; a quarrel about an eel pah
then occupied his whole attention, and the death of
his favourite son, who was drowned at Manukao,
caused him to absent himself entirely from the Chris-
tian natives. He attributed the death of his son to
the disrespect paid to the heathen atuas, or spirits;
and as it was this lad who had taught him to read,
he imagined the atuas had shown their anger, by
punishing him in this manner. At length, how-
ever, he became a firm adherent to Christianity;
gave up all his heathen notions and habits, and has
(6
A NTIVE DOMESTICS OR HELFS."
41
ever since remained one of the most upright and
conscientious chiefs of the Waikato.
I also painted Te Amotutu, a young chief of
Waikato, belonging to the Nga ti pou tribe, who is
related to Te Paki. He is a fine lad, not more than
sixteen
years of age; and about a month he was
ago
married to a pretty girl of Kaitote, to whom he had
long been betrothed by his friends. The young bride-
groom is very well satisfied with his bride; but she,
unfortunately, is partial to another lad, whom the
customs of her tribe forbid her to marry.
In the afternoon our natives were all impatient to
start; for the rain had cleared off, and the blue sky
was revealing itself in every direction, as the mists
rolled up upon the sides of the woody mount of
Taupiri; but Mr. Ashwell gave them a little pig for
a feast, and they then readily consented to remain
until the next day. Our chief, Wirihona, with his
party, had started in two canoes early in the morn-
ing, and this made the others anxious to follow.
During the evening Mrs. Ashwell played upon
the piano, and several hymns were sung in the
native language at their evening worship. Had it
not been for the three little native domestics (or
rather "helps") that were in the room, I could, for
the moment, almost have fancied myself in England
again. These girls Mrs. Ashwell had taught to read
and sew, and they assisted her in the domestic arrange-
ments of the mission station: they were droll, fat crea-
tures; and whenever they wanted to pass across the
42
DEPARTURE PROM PEPEPE.
room, they crept upon their hands and knees under
the table. I made a sketch of the stoutest of the
trio, who is described as a "regular vixen." The
moment I had completed the sketch it was shown to
her; whereupon she instantly rushed out of the
room, fancying she was bewitched.
From the hills, near Pepepe, there are very exten-
sive views of the surrounding country. From the
summit of Taupiri the fresh-water lake of Waikari
is seen it is remarkable for having a salt stream
running through it, in which the sea-fish called kani
are caught; although they are not found in the
other parts of the lake.
This Waikari has a communication with the Wai-
kato, in which an occasional stray kani from the salt
stream of the lake is now and then to be found. Six
other fresh-water lakes may be seen from the top of
Taupiri.
Oct. 3.- At an early hour we took leave of our
friends at the mission station of Pepepe, and were
once more seated in the canoe, pursuing our course
up the river.
Half an hour after breakfast, we
passed a number of natives at a small village on the
banks of the river. They were calling to us,—“Come
on shore, come on shore, or you will be dead for
want of food;" when one of our party shrewdly
replied, "It is not for love of us you are calling; it
is our tobacco that you want."
We now entered the Waipa, which joins the Wai-
kato about three or four miles beyond Pepepe. It
""
"PAKEHA MAORIES."
43
is a deep, placid, meandering river, about half the
breadth of the Waikato at Pepepe.
We passed the little village of Whakapaku-and
afterwards Noterau, where there were a great many
natives in their canoes.
The banks of the Waia are in some places very
picturesque, with steep, wooded hills and dense foli-
age extending down nearly to the water's edge. The
land is rich, and the whole district is thickly peopled
with native inhabitants, whose plantations and potato-
grounds exhibit a degree of neatness and skill in the
art of cultivation that but few savage races attain.
As the canoes approach the little settlements along
the banks, it is amusing to observe the alacrity
with which the children, in a state of nudity, run to
put on their mats at the sight of the pakeha, and then
squat down in their usual attitude to gaze at us.
We met a large canoe coming down the stream,
having in it two Europeans, accompanied by about a
dozen Maories. They were pork-traders, a class of
men in New Zealand corresponding somewhat with
the overlanders of Australia. These individuals go
up the rivers into the interior, and procure pigs from
the natives in exchange for powder, tobacco, and
blankets. The pigs thus obtained they bring down
to the coast, where they sell them for a good price,
either to the people at the European settlements, or
to the captains of whalers and trading vessels. The
natives term these men "Pakeha Maories," or "white
men of no consequence."
44
SUICIDE OF THE SON OF A CHIEF.
On arriving at the village or kainga of Ko Ngaho-
kowitu, we found all the natives in a state of extra-
ordinary excitement. We had observed numbers of
people running in that direction along the margin of
the river from the different plantations; and, on
inquiry, we learned that, an hour previously to our
arrival, the son of an influential chief had committed
suicide by shooting himself with a musket.
Our fellow-travellers, with Wirihona their chief,
were all assembled, and we followed them to the
shed where the act had been perpetrated, and where
the body still lay, as it fell, but covered with a
blanket. The mourners were gathered round, and
the women commenced crying most dolefully; wring-
ing their hands, and bending their bodies to the
earth. We approached the body, and were permitted
to remove the blanket from the face and breast: the
countenance was perfectly placid, and the yellow
tint of the skin, combined with the tattooing, gave
the corpse almost the appearance of a waxen model.
The deceased was a fine and well-made young man.
He had placed the musket to his breast, and delibe-
rately fired off the trigger with his toes, the bullet
passing right through his lungs. Blood was still
oozing from the orifice made by the bullet, and also
from the mouth, and the body was quite warm.
The cause of this sad occurrence was a case of
adultery, which had taken place some time ago,
between this man and the wife of another person
residing in the same village. The friends of this
MOURNING FOR THE DEAD.
45
young man sent away the woman to a distant settle-
ment, which caused the deceased to become gloomy
and sullen. Some of the party having that morn-
ing reproached him with his conduct, he suddenly
rose in an angry mood, and went unobserved to the
spot where he destroyed himself.
The tears shed by the mourners were marks of
genuine grief: it was quite melancholy to observe
the young man's uncle, bending over the body and
frequently placing his hands upon it, whilst the tears
ran down his furrowed and tattooed cheeks. Only
two other mourners approached close to the body:
the sister and brother of the deceased. The former
I did not at first observe; she was sitting at the feet
of the corpse, entirely wrapped in a portion of the
blanket that covered it: the same drapery enveloping
the living and the dead. The latter, a fine boy
about twelve or fourteen, came in and sat down close
to his uncle; he had striven to conceal his feelings
for some time, but at length he hid his face in his
mat and cried bitterly. The old man saluted us
most cordially; but his heart was too full to speak,
and he only kept shaking his head as the tears wetted
his wrinkled countenance.
We left this scene of weeping, with which the
heavily falling rain was in accordance, and returned
to our canoes, from which we had to bale out the
water.
At Hopetui we landed and took shelter beneath a
little tent that our chief, Wideona, had erected there.
46
TRAIT OF NATIVE CHARACTER.
Sitting huddled together with his family, we found em-
ployment in bathing the eye of his little girl with
warm water: the poor child having received a dreadful
blow, that had caused the part to swell to the size
of a pigeon's egg. These people are but very indif-
ferent doctors. Amongst the heathen tribes they
attempt to cure all diseases by witchcraft or sorcery;
and these Christian natives were actually rubbing the
wound with their dirty fingers, while the mother
wiped away the discharge from the eye with a piece
of old blanket.
A slight incident occurred in the tent, illustrative
of native character. The chief caught a large spider
on his blanket, and taking it by one leg, held it care-
fully for a minute and then let it go. I asked him
why he did not destroy the spider? He replied-
"He has done no wrong: if he had bitten me I
should have killed him.”
The entrance to the tent was shut in with a crowd
of heads, amongst which were those of two old men,
who were most anxious to sell us some eggs. The
air of the little tent was insupportable; added to
which, the whole family were successively chewing
a large piece of filthy pork rind, which was handed
from one to another, and had now been divested of
nearly all the fat it previously contained.
At Hopetui we met with a sister of Karaka or
"Clark," the chief of Waikato heads, whose portrait
I had painted when at Auckland. This portrait I
showed to the old woman, who had not seen her
FOND GREETING OF A PORTRAIT.
47
brother for some time, when, to my surprise and
amusement, she at once commenced a most affectionate
tangi before the sketch; waving her hands in the
usual manner, and uttering successively low whining
sounds, expressive of her joy. After she had, as I
imagined, satisfied herself with seeing the represen-
tation of her brother, I was about to replace the
sketch in my portfolio, when she begged of Forsaith
that she might be permitted to tangi over it in good
earnest, saying, "it was her brother-her brother;
and she must tangi till the tears come;" and sure
enough presently the tears did come, and the old
woman wept and moaned, and waved her hands
before the picture with as much apparent feeling as
if her brother himself had thus suddenly appeared to
her. I could not prevail upon the old creature to
desist, and was at length compelled to leave the por-
trait in Forsaith's care whilst I was employed in
sketching elsewhere. In future I shall be more
cautious how I show my sketches to the old women,
finding they are liable to produce such melancholy
results.
This evening, service was held in a small raupo
building. near which our tent was pitched. Three
Europeans-Pakeha Maories, who were proceeding
up the Waipa to trade for pigs with the natives—
passed the night at this place.
In the evening, Wirihona came into our tent, and
we conversed about cannibalism. I inquired of him,
through Forsaith, if he himself had ever partaken of
48
METHOD OF PRESERVING HUMAN HEADS.
"C
human flesh? "Yes," he said, we have all eaten
it, when we knew no better."
Wirihona then gave us a detailed account of the
mode of preserving the heads of their enemies: which
"tapued heads" are frequently to be met with in Eu-
rope in the museums and cabinets of the curious. If
they were heads of enemies taken in battle, the lips
were stretched out and sewn apart; if, on the con-
trary, it was the head of one of the chiefs of their own
tribe, who had died, and they were preserving it with
all customary honours, they sewed the lips close
together in a pouting attitude. A hole was dug in
the earth and heated with red-hot stones, and then-
the eyes, ears, and all the orifices of the head, except
the windpipe, being carefully sewn up, and the brains
taken out-the aperture of the neck was placed over
the mouth of the heated oven, and the head well
steamed. This process was continued until the head
was perfectly free from moisture, and the skin com-
pletely cured; fern root was then thrust into the nos-
trils, and in this state the heads were either placed un-
der a strict tapu, or bartered in exchange for muskets
or blankets to Sydney traders. To the shame of the
Europeans thus engaged it must be told, that so eager
were they to procure these dried heads for sale in Eng-
land and elsewhere, that many chiefs were persuaded
to kill their slaves, and tattoo the faces after death, to
supply this unnatural demand. Heads belonging to
their enemies slain in battle were prepared and stuck
up in rows upon stakes within the pah; to these,
VISIT TO TE WHERO WHERO.
49
every species of savage indignity was offered, and
the conquering party danced naked before the heads,
uttering all manner of abuse to them in terms of
bravado and insult, as though they were still alive.
Oct. 4th.-The morning was dry and perfectly
calm: the blue and distant mountain of Perongia
formed a fine background to the river, presenting a
series of bold and jagged peaks. The deep bosom
of the Waipa looked dark, and upon its glassy sur-
face our now reduced party embarked in one large
canoe, following up the tortuous course of the river.
The steep banks forming the margin of the Waipa
were in some places covered with the long and
drooping leaves of a peculiarly elegant species of
fern, that presented the appearance of a continuous
sheet of palm-leaves. The yellow kowai trees scat-
tered their blossoms in golden showers upon the face
of the stream; and the graceful tui* sported in
flocks amongst their branches, apparently enjoying
the gay place they had chosen to display their glossy
plumage.
We now reached the settlement and potato-grounds
of Whata Whata, where we landed to pay a visit to
the celebrated old chief Te Whero Whero, or Pota-
tau, at whose pah we had been a couple of days
previously. Te Whero Whero is the principal chief
of all the tribes of Waikato, and has an almost unli-
mited influence amongst his people. The population
* Parson bird (Prosthemadera Nova Zelandia).
VOL. II.
D
50
DIPLOMATIC INTERVIEW WITH A CHIEF.
of the Waikato district amounting to 25,000, renders
its tribes second only in importance to those of the
Nga-ti-kahuhunu upon the east coast, whose num-
bers amount to 36,000: in cases of emergency, the
Waikatos can bring from 6000 to 7000 fighting men
into the field. On the occasion of our visit we found
Te Whero Whero engaged in superintending the
planting of kumeras in the rich soil of the grounds at
Whata, and also directing his people in the erection
of a house for himself at that place. My friend had
important business with this chief on matters con-
nected with Government; Te Whero Whero having
lately proffered a request to the Governor to allow
Europeans to settle on the Waikato, being anxious
to have pakehas amongst his people, to purchase their
produce, and give them European articles in exchange;
and he had offered certain lands for sale to the British
Government for that purpose.
At the moment of our approach, we found the old
chief seated on the damp ground, leaning against
a fallen tree, and clad in several old blankets, over
which was a piece of sail-cloth. The only effect our
arrival had upon this veteran warrior was a smile of
welcome without in any way moving his position,
he shook hands with us most heartily; and my friend,
seated on the fallen log, was soon engaged with
him in deep conversation and argument. Te Whero
Whero, like most of the New Zealand orators, is full
of imagery and figurative language: alluding to a
more recent application than his, which had been
APATHETIC STATE OF THE OLD CHIEFS. 51
made to the Government by the chiefs Wiremu
Nera, Paratene, and others at Waingaroa on the
west coast, for settlers to come amongst them, he
said, "Tell the Kawana (Governor) that he must
not neglect the elder brother for the sake of the
younger."
It having been explained to him that I wished to
take his portrait, which would be seen by the Queen
of England, and that I had come so many thousands
of miles for the purpose of representing the ranga-
tiras* of New Zealand, he readily consented; and
whilst he was discussing the all-engrossing topic of
land, I was busy with my pencil. As it rained
pretty fast, I requested that we might remove to
some place of shelter; but, owing to a superstitious
notion that Te Whero Whero was tapu, and would
render tapu any of the surrounding store-houses, he
refused to change his position: at the same time he
most politely ordered some of his people to erect a
temporary shed over me. This was at once done, by
fastening some blankets to upright poles, and en-
throned beneath this canopy, I painted old Te Whero
Whero just as he sat leaning against the tree.
It is a frequent custom for the old heathen chiefs
to sit for days together in this apathetic state. When
at Porirua in Cook's Straits, I found the aged chief
Na Horua, the elder brother of Te Rauparaha, sitting
in his potato ground against a fallen tree in a precisely
similar manner.
Gentlemen, or men of rank.
D 2
52
NATIVE LETTER OF INTRODUCTION.
At the request of my companion, Te Whero Whero
was good enough to give me a letter of introduction
to Te Heuheu Mananui, or Tukino, the celebrated
chief of Taupo Lake in the interior; whither I
intended to direct my steps after leaving Kawhia.
The following is an exact copy and translation of
the letter:-
Copy of a Letter from TE WHERO WHERO to old HEUHEU, at Te
Rapa, Taupo Lake.
Whata Whata, Akatopa 4, 1844.
E te Heuheu tena ko koe. E tai kia pai tou atawai ki ti pakeha
e haere atu na ki a koe. Na tou ingoa i kawea atu, he kai tuhi tuhi
ahua ia, naku hoki na Potatau tenai pakeha. E tai kia atawai koe
ki tenei pakeha. Kei he koe ki taku pukapuka, he pakeha tauhou
no Ingarangi.
Naku,
Na te hoa,
POTATAU.
Ki a te HEUHEU.
(Translation.)
Whata Whata, October 4, 1844.
Friend Heuheu,-Health to you! Let your hospitality be very
great to this foreigner who is going to see you. Your name has car-
ried him away. He is a writer of images; he belongs to me-to
Potatau. Be kind to this European. Take heed you do not despise
my book. He is a strange foreigner from England.
TO HEUHEU.
By me.
Your friend,
POTATAU.
Translation of a Letter from TE WHERO WHERO to the QUEEN,
written after the death of Governor Hobson :-
Mother,-How farest thou? Great is our love to you, who are
residing in your country. My subject is a governor for us, and for
LETTER TO QUEEN VICTORIA.
53
the foreigners of this island. Let him be a good man; look out for
a kind person-a man of judgment. Let not a troubler come here;
let not a boy come, or one puffed up with pride. We, the Maories,
shall be afraid. Let him be as good as this governor who has just
died.
Mother Victoria, let your instructions to the foreigner be good; let
him be kind; let him not come here to kill us, seeing that we are a
peaceable people. Formerly we were a bad people-a murdering
people-a killing people. Now we are sitting peaceably: we have
left off the evil. It was you who (appointed) this line of conduct ;
therefore it is pleasing (to us). This is all I have to say.
From me,
TE WHERO Whero.
Leaving Whata Whata, we proceeded along the
river Waipa to Kowai, a romantic-looking place,
where we landed. After cooking some food, we
took leave of the canoe, and bidding farewell to our
agreeable companions, with Wirihona and his family,
we again resumed our old pedestrian mode of travel-
ling, and struck off to the right across the country—
through fern and forest, forest and fern, hills and
valleys, swamps and rivers-towards Waingaroa
harbour, on the west coast of the island. Our chief
and his wife appeared quite sorry that we were
going to leave them: the latter shook hands with us
several times, accompanying each shake with a low
prolonged squeal, which we endeavoured to imitate
again in return.
Our road during the remainder of the day lay
through a succession of flooded fern land, swamps,
and dripping forests,-ofttimes we were compelled
54
FOREST FLOWERS,
to wade for a hundred yards together, and many
of the swamps required us to exercise all our in-
genuity, to enable us to cross them without dis-
appearing entirely in the middle. The close damp
forests, through the intricate mazes of which we
wound our way over slippery roots, ankle-deep in
mud, were almost overpowering from the fragrance
of the delicious horopito, mingled with the gases
that arose from the quantity of decaying vegetable
matter.
The fuschia is indigenous to the forests of New
Zealand as well as to those of Chili and Patagonia,
and the woods through which we travelled were
everywhere adorned with an undergrowth of beauti-
ful fuschias, now in full boom. This shrub, in its
uncultivated state, bears two distinct sets of flowers
-one green and purple, the other purple and red;
and the pollen on the anthers of the green blossoms
is of the most brilliant cobalt blue colour. So
exuberant is vegetable life in these New Zealand
forests, that it is difficult to find a space, however
small, even upon the trunks of the trees, which is not
the receptacle of some plant or lichen. Upon one
species of fern I observed that the seeds had already
germinated and taken root whilst still upon the back
of the leaf: hundreds of young ferns were thus
springing up upon the parent plants.
!
Toiling up the slippery clay sides of some of the
open fern hills that intersect the belts of forest,
we were repaid by magnificent views of the sur-
"MAGNIFICENT SCENERY.
55
rounding country, and the plains bordering the
banks of the Waipa; blue mountains stretched away
in the hazy distance, and all the variety of light and
shade, storm-cloud, rainbow, and sunshine, played
upon the landscape with a singular beauty of effect
-and in the windless dells of the woods beneath
our feet, above the starry tree ferns, stole stray
lingering mists, like unwilling vapours hiding from
the breeze.
In crossing a river this afternoon the current was
so rapid that it took my lad off his legs, and we were
immersed in the stream; we then travelled on till
long after dark, seeking in vain for a suitable camping
place, and at last we pitched our tent in a wet
marshy hollow by a stream, on the borders of a dense
forest. Some wild hogs from the forest grunted
round our camp all night, and the vile musquitoes
managed to get into the tent. Having been knee-
deep in rain-water nearly all day, it was not surprising
that, combined with sleeping on wet blankets in a
swamp, and breathing miasma all night, I should
wake in the morning stiff with rheumatism, and nearly
blind with cold in the eyes.
Oct. 5th.—This morning we started early, as it
was our intention to reach the harbour and mission
station of Waingaroa the same evening. We crossed
a small ravine near a potato ground, where we met
a young woman, who accosted us, with a letter in
her hand, which she begged us to take to her
brother, who was one of the chiefs of Waingaroa;
56
A NEW ZEALAND LETTER.
the letter was written with a sharp style, upon a leaf
of the New Zealand flax, Phormium tenax; it was
about two feet long, and covered with writing on both
sides, the characters showing out clearly upon the
dark and glossy surface of the leaf.
We passed through much open fern land, hilly,
and intersected in the hollows with swamps; and
crossed several streams: sometimes on flax leaves tied
together, and fastened to the bushes on each bank,
sometimes on a fallen tree, and at others we plunged
in and waded across. We were joined by numerous
natives going to Waingaroa, and soon obtained a
glimpse of the many-branched harbour winding
amongst the hills before us. The mountain of
Kareoi (Woody Head), which forms the southern
entrance to Waingaroa harbour, was the resting-place
of dense clouds. We descended the hills, and kept
round a branch of the harbour for some miles, wading
through soft black mud. Rocks of basalt occur here
and there, and lava lies scattered in blocks upon the
beach: I also procured specimens of gypsum from
this neighbourhood.
The first peep of the blue and hazy ocean, from
the brow of one of the hills overlooking the mission
station of Waingaroa, was grand and solemn. Be-
yond that ocean lay all I cared for on earth, and
many a thought stole across its bosom: the sudden
sight of that vast and watery barrier of human hopes
and ties, made me feel how truly I was a wanderer
in a strange land—a voluntary exile from all I love.
WESLEYAN MISSION STATION.
57
The sun was going down over the Pacific, brighten-
ing the western sky, as though it told of hope and
joys yet to be fulfilled, and the low booming of the
waves as they dashed upon the shore resounded in
the calm air of evening; the day and the week had
well-nigh ebbed away, and all nature seemed as
though it were preparing for the holy serenity of the
morrow's Sabbath.
Oct. 6th.-Late last evening we reached the hos-
pitable roof of the Wesleyan mission station. Mr.
Wallis, the missionary, was from home, but his wife
received us most kindly, surrounded by a group of
half a dozen fine rosy-cheeked children, who bore
testimony, in their healthy and happy countenances,
to the salubrity of the New Zealand climate.
+
The mission station stands upon the side of a hill,
sheltered from the westerly winds, and overlooking a
valley, along which winds one of the many branches
of the harbour. The scenery around is remarkably
picturesque. The house is about a mile distant from
the sea-shore, against which the southern ocean beats
in the winter with terrible fury. Along the black
sand composing the beach, that small and delicate
shell, Spirula Australis, lay scattered in considerable
abundance.
In the afternoon I visited the chapel, where I
found two classes, composed of persons of all ages,
squatted on the floor, reading the Testament in the
Maori language with the native teachers, and all in-
tent on their books. They formed a strange-looking
D 5
58
'MAORI WIDOW'S WEEDS.
medley: here and there the richly tattooed face of a
chief, and now and then the wrinkled visage of a
shrivelled old woman, varied the group. One poor
decrepit soul was in mourning-I think it was for
her husband; her weeds consisted of a profusion of
shreds of red cloth tied round her head, and hanging
in a bunch over her forehead. Both the native
teachers wore European costume; one of them was
strutting round his class, loudly vociferating to his
pupils, dressed in a pair of military pantaloons and a
white blouse. The other and senior teacher was a
mild little man, neatly tattooed, and dressed in an
entire suit of faded black cloth: he gave out a hymn,
and concluded the service with a prayer.
Oct. 7th.—All day at Waingaroa taking portraits
of the principal chiefs. A korero, or gathering of the
native orators, was held at the mission station, to
meet Forsaith: and the most distinguished of these
individuals sat to me for their portraits. So great is
the sensation created by the exercise of my art
amongst these people, that during the entire day the
court-yard has been crowded with natives, all anxious
to have their likenesses taken, that they may go to
England with those of the Rangatiras: upwards of
thirty found their way into the room where I was
engaged in painting, and the passage leading to it
was crowded to excess, so that there was no getting
in or out. In fact, what with Forsaith's Government
business, in which they are deeply interested, to-
gether with my painting, the whole settlement is in
EXCITEMENT AMONG THE NATIVES.
59
a state of unwonted excitement. The day is over;
the chiefs have concluded their meeting, at which
many energetic and eloquent speeches have been
delivered; and two of the principal leaders, Wiremu
Nera (William Naylor) or Awaitai, and Paratene
Maioha, are sitting with me at the table, writing let-
ters to the Governor; they made me fold their let-
ters for them, and have given me their signatures
beneath their portraits.
Oct. 8th. The chiefs were up at their korero nearly
the whole of last night, consulting and conversing
with Forsaith; they are exceedingly desirous for
Europeans to come amongst them, and have offered
a large tract of land to Government for the purpose
of forming a township.
I painted Paratene attired in an elegant robe of
large size, ornamented with dog's hair; one of those
from the southern island, and called by the natives
e parawai. Before commencing my sketch, personal
vanity overcame the grave orator, and the cannibal
warrior of other days; he went into the parlour to
Mrs. Wallis, and said, "Mother, let me have a glass,
to see that my countenance is right:" being anxious
to compose his features in a manner suitable to his
own ideas of propriety, before he took his stand for
so important a proceeding. Paratene is, notwith-
standing numerous peculiarities, a sensible and intel-
ligent man, and much esteemed by those Europeans
to whom he is known. Paratene (Broughton) is his
baptismal name; his native appellation being Te
60
Maioha.
CHARACTER OF THE CHIEF PARATENE.
He is a cousin of Te Whero Whero, and
one of the leading men belonging to the Ngatima-
huta branch of the Waikato tribes; and he generally
resides in a village, or kainga, on the northern banks
of Waingaroa harbour. Eccentricity is the principal
feature in the character of Te Maioha; and the scru-
pulous attention which he invariably pays to those
trifling circumstances which constitute his notions of
etiquette often makes his conduct highly amusing;
yet the correctness of his general conduct, his eru-
dition, and the imperturbable gravity of his de-
meanour, has obtained for him deferential respect,
and a marked ascendancy over many of his equals
in rank,—indeed, he is regarded as a perfect oracle.
By unwearied application he has obtained a smatter-
ing of arithmetic; and one of his most self-satisfac-
tory exploits is the correct solution of some such
important problem as the value of a pig of a certain
weight, at a given price per pound, making the
usual deduction for offal.
Te Awaitaia, baptized Wiremu Nera (William
Naylor), is the principal Waingaroa chief, and is a
zealous friend both to the mission and to the various
European settlers scattered about the harbour. He
´belongs to one of the subdivisions of the large Wai-
kato tribe, called Nga ti mahanga, and resides at the
foot of the mountainous cape designated on the
charts as Woody Head. He is celebrated over
all the island for his daring courage as a warrior,
having been closely allied with Te Whero Whero,
.*
TE AWAITAIA, OR WIREMU NERA.
61
and actively engaged in most of the sanguinary con-
flicts that took place between the united tribes of
Waikato and the inhabitants of Taranaki. He was
one of the leaders of the expedition against the
Taranakians about fifteen years ago, which re-
sulted in the total destruction of the pah Puke-
rangiora. Upwards of 1800 natives were assembled
in the pah, very few of whom escaped; the greater
number being killed, and the residue carried cap-
tives to Waikato. He was also present at the siege
of Nga motu, a pah formerly situated at one extre-
mity of the site now occupied by the settlement of
New Plymouth. The inhabitants of this pah were
assisted in their defence by several Europeans, who
had mounted the guns of a vessel which had been
wrecked on the coast, and worked them with such
deadly effect that the Waikatos were at length
compelled to raise the siege. Several incidents
occurred during this siege, which, while they
almost elicit a smile at their absurdity, yet strikingly
display the unsophisticated character of these people.
During the very heat of the contest, a vessel arrived
in the offing; a truce was immediately agreed upon
in order to secure the advantages of trade, and the
besiegers and besieged were soon seen promiscuously
hurrying off to the vessel to barter their commodities
and supply their wants. The besieged being in
possession of a quantity of ready-dressed flax (an
article much sought after at that period by the
trading vessels on the coast) they exchanged it for a
62
TRADE VERSUS WAR,
plentiful supply of tobacco, an article of which the
besiegers were destitute. The vessel soon departed
and hostilities recommenced: but, after a few days,
another truce was proposed and concluded, for the
purpose of trading with each other! The Waikatos
were in possession of a great many spare muskets,
which they had captured at Pukerangiora, while
the besieged were very deficient in arms; a brisk
trade was immediately commenced, the Waikatos
supplying their enemies with arms, to be turned the
next day against themselves, and receiving in ex-
change a portion of the tobacco that had been pro-
cured from the vessel. The scene, as described by
an eye-witness, must have been most ludicrous:—the
Waikato thrust his musket half way through the
palisades of the pah, retaining, however, a firm hold
of his property until the intending purchaser from
within thrust out in a similar manner the quantity of
tobacco he was willing to give; neither party relin-
quishing his hold of the property about to change
hands until he had secured a firm grasp of that
offered by his adversary! So pacificating is the
influence of trade even upon savages.
When Awaitaia embraced Christianity, Te Whero
Whero exclaimed, "I have lost my right arm!" such
was that chief's estimate of Awaitaia's prowess as a
warrior. Since his profession of Christianity his
character has been without a blemish, and if any
native might be singled out as an individual evi-
dencing the power of the Gospel truth he professes
TEAWAITAIA, OR WIREMU NERA.
63
His de-
to have received, Wiremu Nera is the man.
portment and general demeanour are mild in the
extreme, and his countenance, when in repose, ex-
hibits a shade of melancholy which at once awakens
a feeling of interest; and, except in moments of
unusual excitement, when the kindling of his eye
betrays the latent embers of a fiery spirit, there is
nothing in his appearance calculated to remind the be-
holder of his proximity to a man whose very name was
a terror to his foes. He has proved himself invariably
the friend of the colonists, and since the disturbances
in the north has offered his services to the Govern-
ment to defend the capital with the power of his
tribe.
CHAPTER II
AOTEA-KAWHIA-AHUAHU-MOKAU-PARI PARI—
VOLCANIC REGION OF WANGANUI.
We started from Waingaroa this morning, calling on
our way at the house of the chief Te Moanaroa, or
Teyene (Stephen), which is situated on the banks of
one of the branches of the harbour. Here we re-
mained for half an hour, that our lads might get some
food, and the chief's wife boiled some eggs for us to
carry with us on our journey. Te Moanaroa is related
by marriage to the government interpreter, whose
native wife I have previously alluded to. Before we
entered the court-yard at the back of the house,
we were almost suffocated by the violent stench of
kaanga, or stinking corn, arising from a large pot
over the fire in the yard, filled with a sort of gruel
prepared by boiling the putrescent maize. Two
slave women sat stirring it round with sticks, inhaling
A CHIEF'S "HORSES.”
65
with evident delight the odour that to us was in-
describably disgusting. My companion, looking
across the mud flats left uncovered by the tide,
remarked that we should have a difficulty in crossing.
Oh, no," says Tepene, "you shall have my horses,
and ride over like Rangiteras." "But you have no
horses," replied Forsaith. "They are there," re-
sponded the chief, pointing to some of his men who
sat near the door of the house, " and on the tops of
their shoulders you shall ride across the flats."
It was a lovely and cloudless day of spring, and
our road lay for eight miles through continuous forests,
until we reached Te Mata; where we found extensive
clearings for potato grounds, and a few Maori huts,
round which were congregated about twenty natives.
Here we rested, and partook of some food. The
children were besmeared with kokowai, or red ochre
and grease, to defend them from the attacks of the
sand-flies (namu). An aged woman, reduced almost
to a skeleton, was assiduously engaged in making a
basket of the long leaves of the parasitical tawara
(Freycinctia Banksi); and another woman appeared
equally busy in preparing flax for an ornamental
mat. She was forming the long strips of rolled flax
leaves in the manner before described, which are
worked into the cloth at intervals, and being alter-
nately banded black and yellow, somewhat resemble
the quills of a porcupine. The violent colds some
of these poor people had, and the spitting of this old
creature all round us as we were taking our food,
66
AOTEA HARBOUR.
together with the lingering odours of kaanga, made
it a trial for the strongest stomach.
Travelling onwards for some distance through
dense forests, with occasional steep fern hills com-
manding exquisite scenery, we arrived at sunset on
the shores of Aotea harbour; and, after wading across
a succession of mud flats, in another hour we reached
the mission-house of Aotea, the residence of the Rev.
Mr. Smales, where we were hospitably entertained.
The harbour of Aotea is remarkably picturesque,
and, when the tide is up, presents a noble expanse
of water; but the extensive mud flats, that are un-
covered at low tide, stretch out for miles, leay-
ing but little water to be seen. These mud flats,
abound with the cardium (pepi), the mya, and several
species of turbo, which form part of the food of the
natives: the settlements and kaingas on the shores
of this harbour being numerous.
Oct. 9th.-A clear and balmy morning. The
summer birds of passage are already arriving, and a
most brilliant little Cuckoo (Chrysococcyx lucidus),
with green and golden plumage, was brought in from
the garden, killed by a cat. From whence come
these birds of passage? Are they from the South
Sea Islands? or do they merely migrate from one
part to another of New Zealand: which possesses
nearly eight hundred miles of latitude?
At Aotea, old Paora Muriwenua stood to me for
his portrait. He is one of the most important chiefs
of this district, and has quite a patriarchal appear-
SUPERSTITIOUS DREAD OF LIZARDS.
67
ance, which is heightened by a white and flowing
beard. He is tall and thin, with a commanding
aspect; but his great age frequently causes him to
exhibit signs of imbecility, and his second childhood
is coming on apace. The costume that he wore con-
sisted of a topuni or war-mat of dog's skin, with the
hair woven in alternate stripes of rufous and black,
so as to resemble the skin of a tiger. Muriwenua is
strongly attached to the heathen customs of his race.
The following incident will show how deeply the
belief in witchcraft, and the supposed influence of the
atuas, obtain amongst those who are still heathens.
The missionary was showing me some small green
lizards preserved in a phial of spirits, Muriwenua
and another man being in the room. We forgot at
the moment that the little creatures in the phial
were atuas or gods, according to the superstitious
belief of Maori polytheism, and inadvertently showed
them to the man at the table. No sooner did he
perceive the atuas, than his Herculean frame shrank
back as from a mortal wound, and his face betrayed
signs of extreme horror. The old chief, on discovering
the cause, cried out, "I shall die! I shall die!” and
crawled away on his hands and knees; whilst the other
man stood as a defence between the chief and the
atuas, changing his position so as to form a kind of
shield till Muriwenua was out of the influence of their
supposed power. It was a dangerous mistake to exhibit
these atuas, for the chief is very old, and in the
course of nature cannot live long; and, if he dies
68
THE KATITO SPIDER.
shortly, his death will certainly be ascribed to the
baneful sight of the lizard-gods, and I shall be
accused of makutu, or witchcraft.
The katipo, a small, black, and very venomous
spider, is found upon the beach on the west coast ;
and the natives all say (as a girl assured us this
morning) that, if a katipo bites you, you will most
assuredly die; but if you are clever enough to catch
the katipo, and make a fire round him, so that he
perishes in the flames, you will then recover from
the effects of the poisonous bite.
In the afternoon, which was brilliant, we left Aotea,
and walked along the sand flats towards Kawhia;
having in charge a little girl, the daughter of one of
the missionaries. She travelled in an amo, or litter
borne upon poles, which was carried alternately by the
lads. Several Maori children accompanied us; and
one pretty little fellow assisted me to gather shells,
and the flat white sea-eggs (Echinarachnius Zelandiæ)
which occur plentifully on the west coast.
We crossed an arm of Aotea harbour in a canoe,
passed a picturesque promontory skirted with fine
pohutukaua trees, and, after a couple of hours'
more walking through the bush, reached the
margin of Kawhia harbour, where we found Mr.
Whiteley's boat moored, ready for the reception of
our party. It was now sunset, and the rich orange
glow of the sky above the line of the distant ocean,
and the garish purple of the hills across Kawhia,
rendered the scene very lovely. Our lads pulled
KAWHIA HARBOUR.
69
away merrily, singing, and tossing their heads at
every stroke of the oars. The breadth of Kawhia
harbour is about six or eight miles; but, it being low
water, we had to pull round several sand-banks, and
got aground twice, so that it was very late before we
arrived at the mission-station at Ahuahu. It was a
cold night, and the water so phosphorescent that our
boat appeared as though it were cleaving a lake of
fire. Long flights of small coast birds passed rapidly
against the glowing sky, and the stars shone with un-
usual brilliancy. A meteor, shooting across the dim
and distant ocean, seemed like a beacon, flashing for
a moment to tell of kindred spirits in that far and
glowing west. The lights from the mission house at
Ahuahu reflected their cheerful ray in the calm
water, and we received a hearty welcome beneath
the hospitable roof of the worthy missionary.
During the few days we remained at Mr. White-
ley's, I was engaged in portraying the most impor-
tant chiefs of the neighbourhood, together with their
families; and through the kindness of that gentleman
I was enabled to procure likenesses of many who,
under ordinary circumstances, would have been diffi-
cult of approach.
Oct. 10th. Whilst in the verandah at Ahuahu,
several natives came up from their canoes at the water
side and looked over the paling; among them was a
very remarkable old chief and tohunga (the father
of Te Pakaru, the principal chief of Kawhia), who
had a large bump or wen upon his forehead, imme-
70
A WAHI TApu.
diately over his right temple, the size of a goose's
egg, and which was as carefully tattooed as the
remaining portion of his face. Being tapu, he
refused to enter the verandah, and I took his por-
trait as he stood resting against the rails. He was
evidently delighted at the representation of his
"bump," and the natives screamed and shouted
with ecstacy at seeing old Te Upehi and his bump
on paper; putting their double fists against their
foreheads to exaggerate his deformity.
Oct. 11th.-The natives are gathering from all
quarters to be present at the great meeting or korero
that is to take place between Forsaith and the
chiefs of Kawhia, respecting the settlement of lands;
amongst them are Te Pakaru or Apokia, and Te
Waro; two of the leading men of the Nga ti
Maniapoto and the Nga ti Apakura tribes.
Several miles up the Waiharikiki river, a stream
which flows into the harbour of Ahuahu, is a wahi
tapu, or sacred repository of the property of a
deceased chief, which stands at a small heathen
kainga. The scenery along the Waiharikiki is varied
and romantic; steep banks clothed with the most
luxuriant foliage rise on either side, and almost
every opening discloses a kainga maori or native
settlement: the water was strewn with the golden-
coloured blossoms of the kowai, and the day was
warm and sunny. On arriving at Te Pāhe, we
landed from the boat and proceeded to the wahi
tapu, which stood upon the side of a hill sloping
MAORI SUPERSTITION,
71
towards the river. The sacred enclosure was sur-
rounded with a double set of palings; and within
the inner row, which were painted red, were the
decaying remains of the tapued property, elevated
upon a frame-work of raised sticks; the weather-worn
garments were fluttering in the wind, and the chests,
muskets, and other property belonging to the de-
ceased were arranged in front: a little canoe, with
sail and paddles, was also placed there to serve as
a ferry-boat for the spirit to enter in safety into the
eternal abodes.* Calabashes of food and water, and
a dish prepared from the pigeon, were placed for the
ghost to regale itself when visiting the spot; and the
heathen natives aver that at night the spirit comes
and feeds from the sacred calabashes. So fearful
are the natives to approach this wahi tapu, that they
will not even come within some yards of the outer
enclosure.
This afternoon the meeting of the natives with
the Protector was held on the slope of a grassy hill,
not far from the mission-house: three old chiefs sat
(like the three wise men of old) above the speakers,
against a fence; the others were scattered around in
groups along the slope of the hill. Te Waro and
Te Pakaru were the principal orators. During the
speechifying, I painted Ohu, the tohunga or heathen
*There is a remarkable similarity between this idea and the my-
thological belief of the ancients, that the spirits of the departed were
conveyed in a boat by Charon, the grim ferryman, across the river
Styx.
72
KORERO, OR ASSEMBLAGE OF CHIEFS.
priest of the Waiharikiki river, and the little lame old
chief Rangituatea, who was wounded in the battle
of Taranaki. The latter is a man of note amongst
the Nga ti Maniapoto tribe, and I requested him
to wear his war-mat instead of a dirty blanket all
besmeared with kokowai, in which he was clad; but
he gravely touched his meri poonamu, his tiki, and the
ornament of boar's tusks about his neck, signifying
that these were sufficient indications that he was a
great rangatira.
After the meeting was concluded, the old gentle-
man sat down to a delicious repast of the gruel made
from stinking corn; which they ate out of the iron
pot in which it was cooked, dipping their fingers into
the vessel and then licking them.
Forsaith's lads are enjoying a few days' rest, before
proceeding onwards to Taranki. One of them is a
youth of the Puketapu tribe, who was taken prisoner
at Taranki by Hamana, a Waikato chief; and hav-
ing recently been liberated, through the influence of
Christianity, is now returning to his native district.
Another of our travelling "helps" is a merry young
fellow, rejoicing in the singular name of "troutete"
or trousers, from his having appropriated to his own
use a pair of those peculiarly European articles of
dress, which had belonged to a deceased relation.
The arrival of Kiwi, a great chief returning from
the south, caused a considerable commotion, accom-
panied by the usual speechifying. The women stood
upon the hill, and loud and long was their tangi to
MISSION-HOUSE AT AHUAHU.
73
welcome his approach; occasionally, however, they
would leave off to have a chat or a laugh, and then
mechanically resume their weeping. The old sages
spoke in turns: the tohunga looked like some priest
of the furies with his gorgon locks streaming in
the wind; and, as he grew excited with his speech,
he stamped upon the ground and uttered deep-toned
shouts, that rent the air like the roarings of some
wild beast.
Oct. 13th.-The mission-house is prettily situated
on a point of land jutting into the harbour of Ahu-
ahu, which is a branch of Kawhia; a glassy sheet
of water extends in front of the house, and beyond
it rises the bold and rugged outline of the mountain
of Perongia. To the left of the house is a steep
cliff, with an abrupt descent on the other side,
where the goats belonging to the mission-station
generally browse; and from this elevation a fine com-
manding view may be obtained over the surface of
Kawhia harbour, with the ocean breaking into foam
beyond. The chapel stands on an elevated terrace
behind the house. At the morning service, which
was conducted both in the Maori and English
languages, about fifteen Europeans, including the
missionary's family, were present, and the number of
natives congregated together could not be less than
two hundred; they all sat grouped about on the
floor in their customary attitudes, and nothing
could exceed their attention and decorous behaviour.
In the afternoon the chapel presented a lively and
VOL. II.
E
74
DEPARTURE FROM AHUAHU.
interesting scene; the children were gathering for
school, and it was a striking sight to observe the
old chief Kiwi, who had arrived in state on the
previous day, now sitting quietly in the midst of
them, employed in teaching the little ones to read!
The bright and sunny faces of the pupils showed the
interest they took in their learning: and this delight
was equally manifest in the countenance of the
deeply-tattooed warrior.
Oct. 14th.-From Ahuahu my companion and
myself prepared to start on separate routes; his
being along the coast towards Taranaki, and mine
striking at once into the very heart of the interior,
through the wild region of Mokau and Wanganui to
the Taupo Lakes. Forsaith, who had proved a
most agreeable and intelligent companion during
the journey to Ahuahu, left in Apokea's canoe,
accompanied by his four lads, whilst another canoe
conveyed my party in an opposite direction across
the harbour. My travelling companions now con-
sisted of my two natives, E Pera, who was a Nga
Pui from the Bay of Islands, and E Rhia, a
mission lad of Waipa, belonging to the Ngati Apa-
kura tribe; we were also joined by a couple of
natives proceeding homewards to Wakatumutumu.
Our departure caused quite a commotion in this
peaceful little settlement of Ahuahu, and as our
canoes diverged in their different directions, farewell
shouts rent the air from the groups on shore, which
were loudly responded to by the departing travellers.
THE HINAU TREE.
75
Landing at the head of one of the branches
of Ahuahu harbour, we came to a European cot-
tage, with a settler's clearing; we then struck at
once into the bush up very steep hills. The
ponga, one of the species of tree-fern, is very
beautiful at this season of the year; putting forth a
double coronet of fresh curls, which gradually expand
into leaves. The crimson fuschia and several other
elegant flowering shrubs also adorn the bush. From
the hills we obtained a succession of fine views of
Kawhia and the surrounding country, with the
southern ocean behind. At four miles we halted
at a plantation of Cape gooseberry plants, where we
found a few old slave women and some children;
the latter stripped the plants of all the remaining
fruit, as a present for the pakeha (stranger), whilst
my natives regaled themselves with stinking maize,
a calabash of which the old women had (fortunately
for all but me) just prepared as we arrived.
All day we travelled onwards through a dark and
gloomy forest without a single break; and the nar-
row track lay up and down steep gullies and over
fallen trees. A peculiar odour arises from the de-
caying vegetable matter, which at times is almost
overpowering.
In this forest I saw the hinau-tree growing, from
which the natives prepare the black dye; and of its
seeds, when compressed, the unwholesome-looking
cakes are made to which the children are so partial
The fuschia and the horopito were also abundant;
E 2
.
76
COMMUNITY OP JESUIT NATIVES.
and several of the large shelving fungi, growing from
the trunks of the trees, near the roots, are so broad
and strong as to form capital seats. At night these
moist woods are peculiarly luminous; the decaying
vegetable matters sparkling like stars in every direc-
tion, producing an effect of singular beauty. We
frequently observed among the branches a small
green parroquet (Trichoglossus aurifrons), which was
so tame as scarcely to move at our approach.
About sunset, an opening in the forest showed us
the Marakopo river, which we crossed; and passing
through a patch of fern-land, arrived at Piri-piri. A
remarkable appearance is here produced by the white
limestone rocks, cropping out on the edge of a hill in
cubiform masses above the fern. Immediately above
this brow are a number of straggling huts, which are
occupied by a community of Jesuit natives, who style
themselves pikopo, in contradistinction to the miho-
nari people.
At the time of our arrival at the settlement, all the
inhabitants of the kainga were congregated in an
open court on the brow of the hill, partaking of their
evening meal. Almost before we had entered the
court, we were most violently assailed by upwards of
twenty fierce dogs, and had I not instantly seized a
stick and defended myself, I should, in all probability,
bave come off badly; the natives threw their potato
kits and sticks at the dogs, and the confusion and
din were universal.
We halted for some time in a court-yard appro-
MAORI VESPERS-NATIVE TRADITION.
77
priated to strangers, where we found a cook-house
and a dormitory. As no food is allowed to be pre-
pared in a dwelling or sleeping house, cooking-sheds
are built expressly for the purpose; they are usually
composed of stakes, or the trunks of the arborescent
fern, placed upright in the ground, a little apart
from one another, so as to admit a current of air to
carry off the smoke, and covered with a roof of tohi-
tohi, or nikau palm leaves. Seated on some fern
in the verandah of this cooking hut, I ate my supper;
the natives regarding me with almost the same sort
of wonder that they would some strange animal.
Presently the bell tolled for vespers; the "Ave
Marias" of these poor people sounded very differently
from the rich and melodious chants I have heard in
Sicily and Brazil, yet, in their soft and simple lan-
guage, the effect was pleasing, as their voices, chant-
ing the evening hymn, sounded at a distance, through
the dull and dewy night. I took up my quarters on
a heap of dry fern, and was just dropping off to sleep
when my lad Rihia commenced his devotions aloud,
which lasted without intermission for at least an
hour.
Oct. 15th.—A thick fog ushered in the day, and
after travelling for some hours through dew-drenched
forests, we reached a deep ravine, where the road
descends winding into the glen. On a mossy bank
on one side of this ravine the natives showed me the
foot-prints (according to their tradition) of Whatu-
maui, a giant of former days, who, on arriving at
78
DIFFICULT MOUNTAIN PASS.
this spot, instead of taking the trouble to descend
into the ravine, jumped across it, a distance of at
least 160 feet: these foot-prints are two hollows in the
rock, each about twenty inches in length. We next
passed over steep fern-hills, and through a tract of
country completely devastated by fire-all black as a
cinder-and crossed the small river of Wahuataka-
wau, where there is a pretty waterfall over blue
limestone-rock. At the next stream, Pera told me
there were plenty of snakes, and whilst I was looking
out to avoid them, my guides were suddenly in the
water, divested of their garments, busily searching
for eels, which were the snakes alluded to by Pera.
From the summit of a ridge of steep fern hills, ren-
dered very slippery from the night's rain, we obtained
a view of Pirimokau mountain, celebrated in the
journey from Kawhia to Taranaki, as being a most
difficult and dangerous pass-where the native women
are obliged to be let down and drawn up with ropes,
whilst the men venture along a ledge of rock over-
hanging a giddy precipice, beneath which the ocean
lashes in whirlpools of boiling surf. Beyond us we
could trace the course of the Marakopo, winding
between hills clothed with endless and gloomy forests.
Upon the margin of the small streams and moist
swampy watercourses, there peeps up from the
ground a little white flower with a faint jessamine-
like perfume: nothing but the blossom appears above
ground, and that is quite close to the earth.
The forests in this unfrequented part of the coun-
MAGNIFICENT MOUNTAIN SCENERY.
79
try are almost impenetrable. Many of the hill-sides
were so clothed with roots interwining one with
another as to form a series of steps, down which we
forced our way; the liands (smilax) continually catch-
ing us like ropes round our bodies.
Late in the afternoon, we struck out of the path,
when on the side of a lofty ridge covered with dense
forests to gain a steep buttress of limestone rock
that covered the summit of the mountain. We were
now somewhere about two thousand feet above the
level of the sea, and after pushing through the brush-
wood and matted liands, we reached the summit of
the naked rock, which commanded a most extensive
and magnificent view across the region of Taupo,
with the volcano of Tongariro and the still loftier
Ruapahu rearing their snow-clad summits at a dis-
tance of at least eighty miles. The intervening
scenery consisted of range beyond range of hills in
every variety of form, with the pale and shadowy
mass of these vast mountains, relieved by a clearly
defined outline against the blue of heaven. It was a
glorious sight to look around, from that rocky pin-
nacle, upon the grandeur and the majesty of nature.
The Tongariro was pouring forth volumes of steam,
which rolled down the mountain's side; and a cloudy
mist passed over the Ruapahu whilst we gazed upon
its broad and eternal snows. Descending this steep
range, a few miles farther brought us to the kainga of
Warikaokao, consisting of a few decent huts within a
square enclosure. The shades of evening were grow-
80
NGOHI, THE CHIEF AT MANIA.
ing longer; and as we had had a fatiguing journey,
we halted here for the night, instead of proceeding
onwards to Mania.
Oct. 16th.—Last night I lay in a very windy cook-
house, and got no sleep, though extremely tired. At
daybreak we started for Mania, a distance of eight
miles, where we breakfasted on potatoes and kumeras.
There I painted the chief Ngohi and his principal
wife. This lady had once been handsome, and even
in her declining years she still bore traces of her
former charms. She was under a tapu; and, whilst
in this state, was not permitted to touch any article
of food with her hands. A female slave brought
water in a calabash, which she poured out into her
filthy hand, applying it to the lady's mouth, who
drank eagerly from the hand of the slave; for, had
she touched the calabash herself, it would have
become tapu, and could not again have been used
for ordinary purposes. The boy who had accom-
panied us from Ahuahu was a son of Ngohi, and
remained here. Instead of saluting his parents and
friends, he sat down in silence upon a fallen stump.
The journey had been undertaken solely for the
purpose of fetching a domestic fowl from Kawhi,
and the newly arrived bird underwent a long nursing
from the younger branches of Ngohi's family, before
the poor hungry thing was liberated. There were
several pet pigs at this settlement; at almost every
plantation, indeed, they are to be found: they will
run for miles after their mistresses, and, being very
MISSIONARY'S COTTAGE.
81
small as well as very tame, they are nursed for hours,
as lap-dogs are amongst a more refined community.
Extensive maize and potato grounds occur in the
neighbourhood of Mania, and an ancient carved
house stands not far from the kainga.
On leaving this place we were joined by Ngohi's
eldest son who was proceeding to Whakatumutumu
along with our former companions from Ahuahu.
We crossed the river Mokau, here about ten yards
in breadth, and passed along a valley shut in on one
side by a vast wall of perpendicular rocks. In this
wild valley was a deep toned echo; and young
Ngohi's cries and shouts reverberated again and
again as we went by. Here, too, a river, which falls
into the Waikato, bursts out suddenly from the lime-
stone rock, forming a thundering cascade, which
flows in a deep stream along the valley. At 4 P.M.
we reached the native settlement of Whakatumutumu,
situated amongst romantic hills covered with fern.
The scenery here somewhat resembles that of the
Highlands of Scotland, in the bold outline of the
hills and the barren rocks jutting up in huge and
picturesque masses. In this secluded spot, buried,
as it were, from all intercourse with the surrounding
world, dwell a missionary and his wife, named
Miller, who most kindly welcomed me to their
humble abode. The cottage stands on an elevated
and rocky steep, overlooking an extensive country,
with the river Mokau flowing beneath, and the
native village occupying a hill to the right: from the
E 5
82
PRICE OF A WIFE.
summit of a lofty rock behind the cottage, Mount
Egmont, or Taranaki, is clearly discernible when the
atmosphere is unclouded. On the top of a neigh-
bouring hill is a small wahi tapu, surrounded by
railings, where the bones of about a dozen chiefs,
taken from a cavern, were buried some few years
since by the Tohunga. Here I painted the chief Te
Ngaporutu and his wife: he was formerly a distin-
guished warrior belonging to the Ngatimaniapoto
tribe, but has lately embraced Christianity: and his
wife, who belongs to Wanganui, was bought by him
for thirty pigs. This chief had several wives pre-
viously to his becoming a convert; but he put away
all, excepting only Rihe, whom he retained as his
partner in life. The cast-off wives are all anxiously
waiting for Rihe to die; each one hoping that she
may be the successful candidate for the next wife.
Near Whakatumutumu, on the Mokau, there re-
sides a European, or Pakeha Maori, who has become
almost more savage than the natives themselves: he
is partially tattooed, and clothes himself in a mat or
blanket; he has at least six wives, and adopts all the
habits and manners of the Maori people.
Te Ariki (lord), who was the most celebrated chief
of all Mokau, died two months since at Pari-pari, a
native settlement and pah one day's journey from
Whakatumutumu; he was unconverted, and even
during his last illness he was carried on to the field
of battle. After his death a great contest ensued,
respecting the disposal of his body, between the
+
A MAORI WITCH.
83
Papist natives and those who still adhere to their
heathen customs; the latter argued that he had died
a heathen, and ought therefore to be buried in a
secret cave, according to the heathen form for the
greatest chiefs. The contest resulted in a scuffle for
the body, and, after it had been placed in a box or
coffin by the Jesuits, Taonui, the chief next in im-
portance to the deceased, tore the body from the
coffin, and, in his rage, threw it across the pah: it
was eventually carried off by the heathens, and
placed in a secret cave. About a mile from this
place the body of another chief is hidden in a hollow
tree in the forest.
Eko, the celebrated witch of Waikato, is the wife
of a chief not far from Mokau: she performed some
actions which were considered by the natives as
attesting her powers of witchcraft, and ever since
she exercises, by her arts of sorcery, unbounded
sway over the minds of the superstitious inhabitants :
to such an extent is her power exerted, that many
natives die under the influence of fear. Not long
since she told one of her victims that she had taken
out his heart; and he actually died, out of a belief
that his heart was gone.
Oct. 17th.-Early this morning we took leave of
the missionary and his wife. Their isolation from
the civilized world may be inferred from the fact
that Mrs Miller has not seen a European female
since she has resided at Whakatumutumu: nor does
she expect to do so without undertaking the long
84
FALLS OF THE MOKAU.
and tedious journey through the forest to Ahuahu,
which she must accomplish on foot. We proceeded
to Pari-pari, a distance of about eighteen miles. On
arriving at the small pah of Whakatumutumu we
heard a long tangi: and, on entering the stile, found
the natives all crying and lamenting over the body
of an old woman, which was wrapped in a blanket,
and laid out beneath the verandah of a small
wari pune or sleeping-house. The corpse looked
bloodless and sallow, and the surrounding women
were beating their breasts and cutting themselves
with shells, howling all the time most dismally.
About four miles beyond Whakatumutumu we
reached the falls of Mokau, an exceedingly romantic
spot, where that river dashes down a perpendicular
wall of rock, from a height of about sixty feet, in one
broad sheet of water. The rocky steeps on each side
of the chasm are clothed with evergreens, amongst
which the graceful rimu pine stands pre-eminent ;
high broken rocks, resembling castles, fortresses, and
towers, rise on the opposite side of the glen; and
the surrounding hills are wild and covered with fern.
During the day we passed many swamps, and fol-
lowed the winding course of the river Mokau along
valleys surrounded by strange, desolate-looking hills,
with rocks of micaceous schist cropping out. In
various parts of the river, native weirs for catching
eels are frequent; these the natives keep up with
great care, as they also do their eel-pahs, for the
reception of these fish. The importance and value
EUROPEAN SETTLER WITH A NATIVE WIFE. 85
of the eel-pahs is frequently a subject of dispute
amongst the chiefs. At the summit of a steep hill
we met a party of slave girls travelling towards Wha-
katumutumu, heavily laden with baskets containing
cakes of stinking maize; they were accompanied by
a pretty-looking young woman, the daughter of one of
the chiefs at Pari-pari, gaily attired in a string-mat,
with a bunch of myrtle leaves in her ear.
The grace
and gentle bashfulness of this rangatira damsel were in
strong contrast with the coarse and rude appearance
of the half-clad slaves who were her fellow-travellers.
The day was hot and the hills steep; we passed
along a desolate and swampy valley, where there
grew many fine dragon-trees (ti); and after fording
the Waipa across drift timber, at a place where that
river was not more than a dozen or twenty yards
broad, we reached Pari-pari about four o'clock in the
afternoon.
Pari-pari means, literally, "broken ground; and
the whole country in the neighbourhood is a success-
sion of hills and gullies.
At Pari-pari there lives an European, named Lewis,
who has married the daughter of Taonui, the prin-
cipal chief of the district, and successor to Tariki.
Under the auspices and protection of his father-in-
law, Lewis enjoys his Robinson Crusoe-like life in
perfect security. He has a hut of his own construc-
tion, together with a garden, and a flock of seventy
goats, besides pigs, fowls, and other small domestic
animals. During my stay for a few days at Pari-pari
'
86
GEORGE IV.'s GIFT OF ARmour.
I experienced every hospitality from Lewis, who
took infinite trouble and pleasure in pointing out to
me all the antiquities and remains of pahs and orna-
mental architecture in the neighbourhood. It was
an unexpected treat to sup upon brown bread and
milk: the former made by my host from the produce
of his last year's crop. The concluding dish at sup-
per would appear less inviting to a European appe-
tite, for it consisted of a quantity of fine plump grubs,
nicely browned before the fire; and repulsive as such
an article of food might at first appear, they are not
only agreeable in flavour, but resemble in taste the
most delicious cream. Taonui's daughter had pro-
cured them from the decayed timber of the rimu pine
in the adjoining forest.
At a small pah not far distant from the abode of
his pakeha Lewis, Taonui, the chief, has his residence.
He is one of the most powerful and superstitious of
the old heathen chiefs, and is scrupously attached
to the religion of the Tohunga; around his neck he
usually wears a small flute, constructed out of the leg
bone of Pomare, a northern enemy of his tribe, and
upon this instrument he frequently plays with pe-
culiar satisfaction. He has also in his possession the
original suit of armour that was given by King
George IV. of England to the Bay of Islands chief
Shongi (E Hongi), when that warrior visited England,
The subsequent history of this armour is some-
what curious: it passed from the Nga Puis to Tetori,
and from Tetori to Te Whero Whero at the Wai-
RUINED PAH OF PARI-PARI.
87
kato feast, and came into Taonui's hands under
the following circumstances. On the death of a
favourite daughter, Te Whero Whero made a song,
the substance of which was that he would take off
the scalps of all the chiefs except Ngawaka, and fling
them into his daughter's grave to revenge her un-
timely death. The words of this song highly insulted
the various individuals against whom it was directed:
more especially as it was a great curse for the hair
of a chief, which is sacred, to be thus treated with
contempt. But the only chief who dared to resent
this insult, from so great a man as Te Whero Whero,
was Taonui: who demanded a taua, or gift, as
recompense for the affront, and received the armour of
E Hongi in compensation. I made a drawing of the
armour, which was old and rusty: it is of steel, inlaid
with brass; and, although never worn by the posses-
sors in battle-for it would sadly impede their move-
ments—it is regarded with a sort of superstitious
veneration by the natives, who look upon it as some-
thing extraordinary.
About half a mile from the present native settle-
ment stands the ruined pah of Pari-pari, which con-
tains, in a state of almost perfect preservation, two
of the finest carved and painted Maori houses still
existing in New Zealand. This pah was erected on
the memorable occasion of the Taranaki war, when
the Mokau warriors set out on their expedition to
that fated district: where the inhabitants of the prin-
cipal pahs were either slaugthered and eaten, or
88
RUINED PAH OF PARI-PARI.
taken as slaves, by the conquering party. In this
manner the beautiful district of Taranaki was almost
depopulated, and human bones whitened many of
the battle-fields. At the present moment, many of
the former slaves and their children, are returning
to occupy the land of their forefathers, having been
liberated from their bondage through the combined
influences of Christianity and civilization. Within a
small railing, in one corner of the verandah of the
largest house, is a wahi tapu, where the head of Te
Kawaw (fowl), with his feathers, hani, and mat, were
deposited. Te Kawaw was a great warrior, and
very swift of foot, which obtained for him the appe-
lation of "bird," or "fowl:" he was killed during
one of the engagements of the Taranaki war, close
to the pah of the besieged; and his people, not being
able to remove the body, cut off his head, which they
deposited within the sacred inclosure at Pari-pari.
The head has since been removed by the Tohunga,
but the mat and other articles still remain, though
in a very decayed state. For several days I was
constantly exploring the ruins of this once magnifi-
cent pah: rich fragments of carved work, of the
most elaborate character, lie scattered on the ground,
concealed by the tangled masses of vegetation that
have long since grown over them; and I had to cut
down a large and spreading pura-pura bush, that
almost concealed the verandah of one of the most
exquisitely ornamented houses, before I could make
my drawing. With a view to perpetuate the singular
THE CHIEF TAONUI.
89
and beautiful architectural remains of these people, I
made carefully finished drawings on the spot of all
those most worthy of record, and thus rescued from
certain and speedy oblivion the works of art of a
race of men who are undergoing a most rapid and
extraordinary change.
At the period of my visit, I found Taonui and
Ngawaka his ally preparing to go to Taupo to join
Te Heuheu in an expedition to fight the Ngatiruanui
people, who reside on the shores of Cook's Straits
between Wanganui and Taranaki. I was anxious to
take the portrait of Taonui, and eventually succeeded,
after some trouble, in obtaining a good likeness of
him, as he sat upon the roof of his house, abusing
the queen, and using all manner of provoking lan-
guage. He was angry because I had painted one of
his slaves-"That ugly slave of mine," exclaimed
the haughty chief, "before me, the lord of all
Mokau!" At length he became pacified, and I
successively painted his whole family as they sat in
the verandah of his carved dwelling-house. His
eldest son wore over his blanket a small black mat,
made from the fibrous bark of a tree, and dyed with
hinau. It was the only one of the kind I remember
to have seen in the country.
Oct. 18th.-All day sketching at Pari-pari. I took
the portraits of the widow and child of the late
Tariki before mentioned. The widow was a middle-
aged woman, dreadfully disfigured by the cuts and
gashes which she inflicts upon herself with a pepi-
90
A CHIEF'S WIDOW-THE TAPU.
•
shell whenever she cries; and she wore a crown or
garland of large green leaves upon her head as the
emblem of mourning. Since the death of her hus-
band, which took place about eight months since,
she has been tapu, and not allowed either to feed
herself or to change her garments; which are all in
rags. She is either fed out of the hands of another
native, or she eats like a dog by putting her mouth
to the ground. The period of her mourning and
the force of the tapu are to continue for four months
longer, when the unhappy widow will be released
from her trammels, and permitted to re-enter the
marriage state.
I have nowhere seen the law of tapu more rigidly
adhered to than amongst these wild inhabitants
of Mokau. Even poor Lewis himself is a sufferer
from this cause: to-day he wanted to kill a pig, that
we might make merry, and have some provision to
carry along with us on our journey towards Taupo;
but the unfortunate pig in question having unwit-
tingly trespassed upon some sacred ground, it had
become tapu, and neither Lewis nor any one else
dared to touch the sacred porker. Not long since,
Taonui laid a tapu upon the road through the forest
from hence to Taranaki, so that no one could travel
that way without incurring the anger of the chief
and the wrath of the invisible atuas. Taonui has
just undergone the solemn ceremony of having his
locks cropped; this duty was intrusted to his wife
alone, and she is thereby rendered tapu for the period
VAST LIMESTONE CAVES.
91
of one week—the penalty for touching the sacred
hair of a chief: the hair itself was carefully buried,
that it might not come into contact with any object
connected with food.
An instance occurred near this place of a suicide
of a most determined character: a man deliberately
throttled himself with his hands, whilst lying in a
sleeping house, beneath his blanket.
On the 19th we started for Waipa; but hearing at
Pukemarpou, a small pah upon a hill about two
miles from Pari-pari, that the chief Wirihona, our
fellow-traveller on the Waikato, was absent from
Waipa, with Mr. Buttle, the missionary, I resolved
not to proceed further in that direction, but to
take the road to Taupo, by the way of the Wan-
ganui.
In the mean time I visited and explored some lime-
stone caves that are situated in the side of a lofty hill,
about a couple of miles further on. The rain fell in
torrents; but we carried fire-sticks with us, and made
torches at the mouth of the cavern, from the light and
inflammable bark of a tree. A large fuschia grew at the
opening of the cavern, which was evidently an occa-
sional place of shelter with the natives. The en-
trance to the largest cave is a spacious arch in the
side of a perpendicular wall of limestone rock. For
about sixty feet the cave runs inwards, forming one
grand and lofty antechamber, hung with stupendous
masses of stalactite: the stalagmitic encrustations
on the floor assuming the forms of huge mushrooms,
►
92
SPLENDID STALACTITE CAVERN.
tables, and pillars, and frequently joining with the
stalactites from above, producing columns of a pictu-
resque appearance. At the inner extremity of this
vaulted chamber is a steep descent, nearly dark, at
the bottom of which a rapid subterranean stream
flows across the cave; and beyond this river the
cavern was supposed by the natives to terminate.
The tide being much lower than ordinary, I suc-
ceeded in crossing, by the light of a bonfire that my
natives had kindled at the entrance of the cave. I was
bent on exploring this subterranean fissure to its full
extent, thinking it probable that other chambers and
galleries existed beyond the river; and without wait-
ing for the torches, I managed to climb up the almost
perpendicular side opposite, and reached the entrance
of a gallery about twenty feet above the river, and
just large enough to admit four persons crawling in
on their hands and knees. I entered, but had not
proceeded far, when the smoke setting into the
cavern, enveloped me in total darkness; and, almost
in a state of suffocation, I was compelled to feel my
way back as I best could, and scramble for my life,
towards the mouth of the cavern. As soon as the
smoke had cleared away, we lighted our torches, and
leaving the timid natives at the entrance, Lewis and
myself pursued our way into the cave, crossing the
river, and regaining the opening that led to the
gallery I had before reached.
After crawling along a corridor of sparkling stalac-
tites for about thirty feet, forcing our bodies between
SPLENDID. STALACTITE CAVERN.
93
huge pillars of stone, we suddenly entered a spacious
chamber of indescribable loveliness: it appeared as
though gnomes and fairies had been at work to adorn
this magic hall. The roof, hung with stalactites of
the most exquisite and pearly whiteness, was sup-
ported by columns of yellow and transparent spar,
that gave it the resemblance of a natural temple;
and the crystalline walls and floor were covered with
a sort of fluoric bloom of the most delicate hue and
texture. Ours were the first human eyes that beheld
this resplendent saloon hid in the bowels of the
earth: it was evident that no one had ever entered
this fairy abode, for our footsteps destroyed the
bloom on the floor, and not the slightest mark
of intrusion was anywhere discernible. We felt it
to be almost an act of desecration to intrude on
this secret and glorious chamber, whose chaste
splendour shone forth in the unsullied purity of
its pristine beauty. The scene seemed to realize
Coleridge's poetic description, in his "Kubla
Khan," of "that sunny pleasure-done with caves
of ice".
"Where Alph the sacred river ran
'Neath caverns measureless by man,
Down to a sunless sea."
After we had fully explored this cavern to its
further extremity, we retraced our steps back to the
open air, and to the sunshine that had succeeded
to the morning's rain. The natives have a tradition
94
THE TAWARA.
that whoever enters this cavern, and brings away any
portion of the stalactite, however small, is certain of
being drowned; and it is a singular coincidence that
two Europeans, who in passing entered the outer
chamber and broke off pieces of the stalactite, were
afterwards drowned: one of these was a missionary
who was upset in a canoe at the mouth of the river
Thames in Houraki Gulf.
In the forests near Poukemarpou we regaled our-
selves on our return with the sweet and fleshy brac-
teæ of the tawara (Freycinetia Banksi), which are
now in season. The taste of the lower portion of
these bractes, when fully ripe, is somewhat like that
of a rich and juicy pear, with an aromatic flavour
resembling vanilla. The plant yielding this vege-
table luxury is parasitical; climbing in clusters of
long narrow leaves to the summits of the lofty forest
trees.
Oct. 20th.-Again at Pari-pari, where I received a
letter from the chief Wirihona, the purport of which
was that he regretted not being able to accompany
me to Taupo, but that if I returned to Waipa he
would let me have his canoe to go down the Wai-
kato.
Oct. 21st.-This morning I started with only my
two lads for Taupo: our road lay for the first eight
miles along the same path we had travelled from
Whakatumutumu; we then struck off to the left,
fording the river Mokau twice; and many swamps
had to be crossed, during our passage through an
WILD BOAR HUNTING.
95
open fern country, the valleys of which were clothed
with a coarse wiry grass, called by the natives wiwi.
In the woods beyond Pari-pari we encountered a
number of wild hogs, that roam at large through the
forests of Mokau: at periodical intervals the natives
go out to hunt these animals, with dogs trained for
the purpose; and they not unfrequently receive
dangerous wounds from the infuriated boars. It was
formerly the custom for the chiefs to wear the tusks
of the boars they had killed, strùng round their necks
as trophies.
The country now began to assume a volcanic
character: small lumps of cellular pumice were
thickly scattered over the ground in every direction,
and the soil appeared formed from the decomposition
of light volcanic ashes. On the margin of the
swamps, a small white violet, slightly scented, grew
in the utmost profusion; the New Zealand daisy
and the little aromatic white bell which I have before
alluded to, were also abundant amongst the moss and
fern.
We reached Pouketouto towards the evening: a
small kainga, the residence of an inferior chief with
his family and a few slaves, occupies the side of a
hill. I took up my night's quarters in an open cook-
house, where my lads prepared me some food; but
several filthy slave women came in and cooked a
mess of gruel of stinking corn, the odour of which
almost drove me from the premises. It was a bitter
nig the wind blew terrifically; and in so exposed
96
CHILDREN'S MINIATURE FORTIFICATIONS.
a situation it was difficult to obtain the repose that
we needed.
The sun sank in a stormy sky, and a solitary kaka
now and then whirring homewards, passed over the
kainga, uttering its shrill cry. The fires in the warm-
houses were lighted; and when heated like ovens
and full of smoke, the natives as usual crept into
these dens, and stopping every orifice, shut themselves
up until morning.
The few natives residing in this district are either
Papists or Pagans. The women are tattooed con-
siderably on their breasts and shoulders, with cross-
lines; and some wear human teeth round their necks.
Oct. 2nd. We started very early, taking on with
us a supply of potatoes: as there are no more native
settlements for a distance of forty miles along the
desolate and dreary region we had now to traverse.
Near the pah leading from Pouketouto, I observed
a miniature pah, constructed by the boys, who amuse
themselves by building tiny fortifications, and emu-
late the courage and skill of their sires in the sport
of besieging and defending them. The mounds were
made by heaps of earth, and the fence-work con-
structed of upright sticks, displaying the charac-
teristic ingenuity of the Maori children..
The scenery was wild, and not unlike that of some
portions of Dartmoor; whilst the rain falling heavily
nearly all day, added to the dreary aspect. Some
of the swamps we crossed were strongly impregnated
with sulphuretted hydrogen gas. The river Mokau
NATIVE METHOD OF KINDLING FIRE.
97
here runs through a valley, bordered on each side by
precipitous chasms of rock; and the steeps are
covered with fern. Wild ducks were numerous
along the river, unmolested in these waste solitudes.
At one bend of the stream, where it breaks into
foam over masses of rock, we observed an eel-pah,
whither the natives occasionally resort for the pur-
pose of taking these fish in their kupengas or nets.
The swamps were all thickly studded with white
violets; and the country continued to present a
wild and rocky aspect until we once more ar-
rived upon the borders of the forest.
halted to cook some potatoes; my lads having
brought materials for procuring fire after the native
manner. Their method is this: a piece of hard-
pointed wood is rubbed very briskly along a groove
in another piece of wood of a flattened shape, but
less hard than the former; the friction soon produces
a fine dust from the groove, which kindles and acts
as a tinder; when it smokes, this is carefully col-
lected and put into a parcel of dry fern, or a wisp
of grass; and upon being blown gently, the whole
bursts into a blaze.
Here we
After toiling, wet through, up and down an intri-
cate mountain forest for some miles, we suddenly
came in sight of a most remarkable region, from the
brow of a steep hill, where the forest abruptly termi-
nated upon open fern. Beneath us was stretched
out, for miles in extent, a plain entirely destitute of
trees, broken with deep ravines and chasms, and
VOL. II.
F
98
VOLCANIC REGION ON THE WANGANUI.
scattered over with an infinite multitude of abrupt
little hills, like Alps in miniature. Some of these
hills rose into tapering cones, resembling craters;
others presented the appearance of castles, and steep
ridges crowned with masses of rock: the whole scene,
backed by distant ranges of mountains, had the
aspect of having once been the seat of intense vol-
canic action. Through this singular region the river
Wanganui wound its serpentine course, along a bed
of white sand and pumice: it is here about twenty
yards in breadth, and so tortuous are the windings
of the stream, that during the day we crossed and
recrossed it nine times. The entire country is covered
with lumps of pumice, and the rocks appear of igne-
ous origin; the rounded hillocks presenting cliffs
consisting of tufaceous lava, or of lapilli of pumice
and sand cemented by volcanic ashes. Dark clouds
hung in sullen masses over these broken peaks, and
the scene might be truly called the Valley of Deso-
lation almost the only vegetable production con-
sisted of a coarse wiry grass, with here and there
occasional tufts of low fern. Toiling on till after
sunset, we arrived at the opposite side of the ex-
tensive valley that we had contemplated from the
verge of the forest; and, to our infinite delight, we
found a camping place, where there was a roof or
shed of tohi tohi grass, that had been erected by na-
tive travellers, on the edge of a chasm of pumice,
and close to the margin of the swiftly flowing
Wanganui. Here we took up our quarters for
:
VOLCANIC REGION ON THE WANGANUI.
99
the night; we kindled a blazing fire in front of the
shed, dried all our wet clothes, roasted our potatoes
in the glowing embers, and ate them with a satisfac-
tion and relish to which the sons of luxury are in-
deed strangers: in short, we passed the night com-
fortably in this romantic and secluded glen.
A
F 2
CHAPTER III.
TUHUA-TONGARIRO-RUAPAHU-TAUPO LAKE-THE
CHIEF TE HEUHEU-BOILING PONDS AND SPRINGS
TE RAPA-WAITAHANUI-ROTO-AIRE LAKE AND
MOTUPOI PAH.
Oct. 23rd. Off at sunrise. The morning was
clear, though the fern and forests were dripping like
a shower-bath, and we were wet through before we
were out of the first wood; but as the sun obtained
power the moisture vanished, and the day was fine
and warm. The scenery continued of a very similar
character to that through which we had travelled on
the previous day. Strangely broken pumice-hills
rose on every side; the Wanganui winding its course
through a narrow valley, with occasional cliffs of
white sand and loose pumice, through which the
river has gradually formed a deep basin or channel,
presenting here and there regularly terraced sides
and platforms, that can only have been produced
3
THE STRANGER'S WELCOME.
101
by the gradual subsiding of the waters. The upper
soil is a rich black vegetable mould, covering beds of
pumice, which again rest upon basaltic rock. Our
road still lay through wiwi and fern for about ten
miles farther along the valley of the Wanganui,
crossing incessant chasms, rent as if by earthquakes.
The romantic appearance of the scenery is heightened
by occasional cascades, dashing down abrupt preci-
pices of rock that rise on each side of the valley.
We at length reached the settlement of Tuhua;
and, as the lads were very tired, we gladly rested
there until the next day. This place is famous for
its potatoes, which are grown in the sandy pumice
soil; and extensive potato-grounds occur all through
this district. A fine range of wooded heights rises
from the Wanganui, but the surrounding hills are
chiefly clothed with fern. The first intimation of
our approach to the vicinity of an inhabited district,
after the solitary region we had passed, was the sight
of a young slave woman, attended by her dog, busily
engaged in gathering flax on the borders of a small
stream. Her only garment was a coarse brown mat,
extending from her waist to her knees, and her limbs
were anointed with kokowai, or red ochre, to keep off
the attacks of the sand-flies. Astonished and delighted
at the sight of a pakeha, the girl led us to the village,
where she lit a fire in a cook-house, and bounced
about with great alacrity to provide us with a meal,
laughing and chattering in high spirits. The cry of
te pakeha (the stranger) soon resounded through the
102
INTELLIGENCE OF THE CHILDREN.
woods, and the natives dropped in one by one from
their potato grounds, to have a look at the newly-
arrived visitors. In a very short time the court-
yard of the village was thronged with natives, who
were exceedingly kind and hospitable to us; and
no more work was done on the potato grounds
that day. Tired as I was, I was led a chase of
three miles through the woods, by about a dozen
young urchins, who insisted on taking me to a spot
from whence I could obtain a view of the Ruapahu,
crowned with its sparkling glaciers and perpetual
snows. The chief goodnaturedly killed a little pig
for me; and soon afterwards E Pera, one of my lads,
came to know if he might not suggest that another
ought to be killed for him, as he too was a visitor at
the settlement.
The evening passed pleasantly amongst these
interesting and primitive people. In the glorious
sunshine of the evening, that mellowed the tints of
the surrounding forest, and glowed upon the pearly
sides of the lofty Ruapahu, all nature looked beauti-
ful and happy. Several natives were sitting upon a
raised platform, engaged with their favourite game
of draughts, while others crowded round me in an
ecstacy of delight at the contents of my portfolio.
The tamarikis (children) set to work endeavouring
to delineate each other, and one boy drew my like-
ness upon his thigh, with a piece of charcoal. When
the stars came out, my little bright-eyed companions,
who had been my willing guides to see the Ruapahu,
66 QUID PRO quo."
103
gathered round me in the clear moonlight, pointing
to the various heavenly bodies, telling me their
Maori names, and asking what the pakeha called them;
repeating over and over again what I told them,
in the gentle accent of their own soft language.
The people are all Christianized, although no
missionary has yet been amongst them; they have
been instructed entirely by a native teacher, who
calls himself Mr. Maunsell. I attended their even-
ing worship, or karakia, until driven out of the
building by the smoke; an
an enormous fire was
kindled in the centre of a tohi-tohi house that consti-
tuted the chapel, the sides of which were blackened
from their contiguity to the fire; and in this place
about thirty natives were assembled, who went
through their prayers with great apparent devotion.
Oct. 24th-We left Tuhua, and on taking leave of
our hospitable chief, I gave him five figs of negro-
head tobacco (worth about three pence) which he
considered as handsome payment for the pig besides
other food and accommodation afforded to myself
and my guides.
Our first ten miles lay over grassy hills and along
valleys clothed with fern and wiwi, continually in-
tersected by yawning chasms of pumice; and the
volcano of Tongariro rose full before us, but only
the lower portion of its snow-streaked sides were
visible beneath the clouds. About a dozen of the
young people from Tuhua accompanied us on our
way as far as Tereringa; where I found the Taupo
chief, Rawide, or Te Rangiarawaha. Tereringa con-
104
PENETRATING A DENSE JUNGLE.
sists of a few native houses, built on the summit of a
steep hill of pumice overhanging a tributary of the
Wanganui. A Taupo native met us, and, flourishing
his tomahawk over his head, ran back to his com-
panions, crying out that the pakeha was come; the
cry was taken up by those on the hill, and shouts of
te pakeha re-echoed through the valley. I took the
portrait of Rawide, though for some time he ran and
danced about so vigorously-brandishing his old pri-
mitive wooden meri-meri, ornamented with bunches of
kaka feathers-that I feared the attempt would be
useless.
We left our young companions playing draughts
in one of the houses at Tereringa, and crossing a river
called Teringamutu, ascended a cliff of pumice nearly
one hundred feet in height; we then entered a pre-
cipitous glen, and climbed two steep mountain ranges
clothed with dense forest. At another small kainga
we delivered a letter from Taonui, the chief of Mo-
kau, desiring one of his relatives to provide us with
a guide from this place across the country to Taupo
Lake. Led by our new guide we struck over some
fern hills into the most awful and almost impenetrable
forest and jungle we had yet encountered. Supple
jacks, fallen trees, and masses of decayed vegetable
matter, impeded our progress; and to surmount
these obstructions we were obliged to creep on our
hands and knees through tangled brakes, jump over
trunks of trees, slide down precipitous banks of
slippery roots, and endure all manner of horrors and
abominations. On, and on, and on, we toiled-
VAST PRIMEVAL FOREST.
105
wading, creeping, jumping, sliding, and scrambling-
till sunset, when we reached a few deserted huts in
an old potato-clearing upon the slope of a hill amidst
the forest, beside a stream of water embowered with
beautiful fuschias in full blossom. The lads as
well as myself, were dreadfully fatigued, but hunger
was imperative; I set to work, and with a little of
Lewis's coarse flour, that we had brought from Pari
pari, and some of the pork we obtained at Tuhua, I
achieved a tolerable pie, the baking of which we
watched by turns as it was placed in the hot embers.
Oct. 25th. Our toils to-day commenced by having
to climb the face of a very steep mountain, just above
the potato-ground where we had passed the night.
Loose and sharp stones rendered it a difficult under-
taking; for so nearly inclining to the perpendicular
was this lofty ridge, that we were constantly slipping
back again with the loose fragments of rock. On
gaining the summit, we were enveloped in a thick
mist, so that we could not distinguish any objects
around us; and, after travelling along this ridge, the
sharp cold air of which bespoke its great elevation,
we struck quite suddenly into a dense forest. Its
extent may be guessed from the fact that we pro-
ceeded through it for eight weary hours without
finding a single opening, and during this time we
had frequently to cut or force our way through the
tangled overgrowth of vegetation. In these primeval
and all but impenetrable forests, the birds are so tame
that, on resting and imitating their various notes,
F 5
106
SWINGING BRIDGE.
we frequently brought round us a flight of little
songsters, that approached without the slightest
manifestation of fear. Amongst the smaller varieties,
I observed the white-headed manakin, a black and
yellow fly-catcher, and an extremely diminutive
wren. At intervals, in the silent and gloomy forest,
one passes an old shed constructed of bark, or the
leaves of the nikau-palm, where the remains of fires
bespeak the resting-place of native travellers.
At length, after three days' journey, we emerged
from the almost interminable forest, and entered
upon a grassy tract of open volcanic land, strewn
everywhere with lumps of pumice. It was late in
the afternoon when we reached the open country;
and the bright sunshine and fresh air gladdened us,
after the dull twilight and damp and stagnant atmo-
sphere of the woodland solitudes. Magnificently did
Tongariro and the Ruapahu, with their snow-streaked
sides, burst upon our sight, as we looked over the
open country beyond us. The summits of these vast
mountains were enveloped in clouds; the steam
rolling in volumes from the crater of Tongariro is
condensed by the cold of that exalted region, form-
ing a canopy of vapour that, in calm weather, con-
ceals the head of the sacred mountain: for, by the
New Zealanders, it is considered as strictly tapu.
We crossed a boisterous river on a native bridge of
tea-tree boughs, swung by flax from the opposite
trees. The river foamed along a deep chasm or glen
of pumice, and, just above the swinging bridge,
DROLL SKETCHES BY NATIVES.
107
descended in a grand cataract of a horse-shoe form,
thundering over masses of rock and fallen trees.
The dark, wild, and deep stream rushing below
looked awful from the frail bridge, which rocked like
a cradle over the abyss.
In a romantic valley, surrounded by steep and
barren hills, we passed a deserted settlement and
several potato grounds. Some of the wooden
houses were covered with a multitude of rude
charcoal drawings of men on horseback, of a really
humorous character, and very droll: some were
represented standing upon their heads, and all were
beating the horses, which appeared very unwilling
to go.
From the hills we now came in view of the long-
wished-for Taupo lake: a lovely and cheering sight ;
open fern-clad hills and heathery knolls were spread
around, with the evening sun shining over them and
lighting up the white cliffs on the opposite shores of
the azure lake. At the eastern extremity of the lake
rose the lofty mountain of Tauhara; and a pumice
islet added to its beauty.
At sunset we reached a small fortified pah, on the
summit of a hill overlooking the lake. There were
but few natives residing in it, to whom the sight of
a pakeha was indeed astonishing; and after the salu-
tation of welcome, they commenced a tangi at my
guides and myself. The man who entertained us
uttered a faint sound in his throat, like that of a
person crying at a distance, and continued to look
108
A LUGUBRIOUS WELCOME.
mournfully on the ground. The welcome of the
women was voluble and loud: they howled dismally,
and their tears fell fast for some time. Another
female soon arrived, who, squatting on the ground,
commenced a tangi with her friends, so loud and
doleful-now muttering, and anon howling like a
hyæna-that it made one feel quite dismal: there
she sat, yelling horribly, to my great annoyance ;
but Maori etiquette compelled me to look grave and
not disturb her. There seemed to be no end to this
woman's wailings of welcome: the night was cold,
and she still continued to sit by the fire prolonging
her lugubrious and discordant strains. Sometimes
she would pitch a higher key, going upwards with
a scream, shaking her voice, and muttering between
every howl; then it would be a squall with varia-
tions, like "housetop cats on moonlight nights."
Then, blowing her nose with her fingers, she made
some remarks to the woman next her, and recom-
menced howling in the most systematic way. Once
again she became furious; then, during an interval,
she spoke about the pakeha, joined in a hearty laugh
with the rest; and at last, after one long-continued
howl, all was silent: to my great relief.
Oct. 26th.-Left Tihiwihiwi early, and reached the
shores of the lake by a steep descent amongst beautiful
evergreen shrubs. Below lay a settlement of the Taupo
natives: some were busy at work in their little corn
and kumera beds, whilst others were cooking food.
Their maze plantations were exceedingly neat, and the
TAUPO SETTLEMENT-PATHETIC TANGI. 109
light pumice soil was turned up into little heaps very
carefully where their taro was planted. Every thing
here was in the primitive style, and the scene appeared
lovely-the calm, blue lake; the mountains rising on
all sides, mirrored in its bosom; the rocky steeps clad
with evergreens to the water's edge, their blossoms giv-
ing forth the delicious odours of spring; and the petals
of the yellow kowai strewn so thickly on the surface
of the lake, as to make it appear in many places like
a golden plain. The cry of "Te Pakeha" resounded
along the hills, whilst from eighty to one hundred
natives met us, and conducted us to the front of the
chief's house, a sort of square; here we sat down in
silence, and the women burst forth into a loud tangi :
many stood wringing their hands and bending their
bodies to the ground in the Eastern style, whilst from
all around tears flowed profusely; and such apparent
agony of grief was manifested, that it seemed almost
impossible to believe that it was only the performance
of an every-day custom amongst the New Zealanders.
Hiwikau, brother to Te Heuheu the celebrated
warrior-chief of Taupo, accompanied us in a canoe to
the kainga, or settlement of the great chief himself.
The natives began to assemble in numbers; all sitting
on the ground in a semi-circle : to sit in the presence
of a stranger or a superior is considered as a mark of
respect. Te Heuheu was superintending his people,
who were at work in the potato grounds; but he at
last arrived, and saluted me by pressing noses. After
sitting down again in silence for some time, I de-
110
TE HEUHEU THE TAUPO CHIEF.
livered to him a letter of introduction, which I had
brought from Te Whero Whero, the principal chief
of Waikato.
Te Heuheu is a fine old man; he stands nearly
seven feet high and is very corpulent. His hair is
silvery white, and his people compare it to the snowy
head of the sacred Tongariro; there being no object,
except this tapu mountain, of equal sanctity to per-
mit of its being mentioned in connection with the
head of their chief. At the present time, Te Heuheu
has eight wives living; but only his favourite one is
permitted to eat with him, and then out of separate
vessels. He is frequently known by other names—
Mananui and Tukino.
After Te Heuheu had heard the contents of the
letter, which was read to him by one of his grand-
children, he immediately ordered a large pig to be
killed for us; in the mean time I was fed, much
against my inclination, with potted pigeons, boiled
down in their own fat and kept in a gourd until
perfectly rancid; for no salt is used in preparing
them: this is a delicacy reserved for visitors and
state occasions.
At this settlement of Te Heuheu's, which is called
Te Rapa, I was astonished at finding a European
and a countryman: he was a sailor, who had taken
up his abode with the natives, and resided here
under the protection of the great chief. Our sur-
prise and delight at meeting was mutual: on my
part, I had thus unexpectedly found a guide and an
PREPARATIONS FOR A FIGHT.
111
interpreter in the wildest part of the interior; and
the poor sailor was overjoyed at again seeing one of
his own northern race. Newman, for that was his
name, appropriated his raupo hut for my accommo-
dation, and made himself of great use to me during
my stay at Taupo. Singularly enough, I discovered
that this man had served as a sailor on board a vessel
belonging to my father, which was employed in the
West India trade, and that he was acquainted with
several individuals whose names were familiar to me.
Great preparations are making for the "fight"
from Paripari, which is expected here daily: three
thousand baskets of potatoes and kumeras have been
brought down from the plantations; pigs are ready;
and the natives are busily engaged in preparing their
fire-arms and other weapons. Nga Whaka and
Taonui are both looked for, with a body of several
hundred men.
The Taupo people are a fine and good-looking
race. They are wild, and subject to their old heathen
customs, and hence afford better specimens of the
primitive New Zealanders than those dwelling on
the coast, whose character has been sadly changed
by contact with traders and land-jobbers. The
contamination of European intercourse has not yet
reached these distant tribes of the interior.
Te Heuheu's son possesses a handsomely orna-
mented house at one extremity of the kainga. He is
a stout lad of seventeen, and has no less than six
wives betrothed to him, amongst the damsels of the
112
FIRST SIGHT OF A HORSE.
tribe. He has taken the name of Tamiti, out of
compliment to Nene, or Tamiti Waka, the chief of
Hokianga, to whom he has been on a visit. Amongst
other presents, Nene gave him a horse, saddled,
which was sent by sea to Tauranga in a small vessel
belonging to Pomare, and conveyed overland with
considerable difficulty, by a body of natives, to its
destination at the Lake of Taupo. The extraordi-
nary excitement produced by the arrival of so large
and singular an animal, called into play the imitative
faculties of the young Maories, and gave rise to num-
berless charcoal drawings of men on horseback, that
cover nearly every flat board within the settlement.
Young Tamiti may now be seen on horseback, riding
swiftly along the shores of the lake, his only garment
consisting of a regatta shirt, that flutters loose in the
breeze.
During my stay at Taupo, I frequently expe-
rienced considerable trouble when sketching, from
the prevalence of the tapu; so many objects being
regarded as sacred: anything relating to food, if
represented with the same pencil that depicted the
head of the sacred chief, or put into the same port-
folio with it, is considered a sad and fearful sacrilege.
The whole of my sketches narrowly escaped being
committed to the flames, through the indignation of
Ko Tariu; and they were only rescued by the influ-
ence of my friend, the chief Te Heuheu. I was
obliged in future to make drawings of the patukas,
tapu buildings, &c., by stealth. Even the Tongariro
•
MAORI JUSTICE.
113
itself I was forbidden to represent, under pain of
"utu," or payment; but I afterwards accomplished
it with the assistance of one of my guides, who was
a Christianized native. Notwithstanding the strict
adherence of Te Heuheu to these absurd and hea-
then customs, I received every hospitality and pro-
tection from his hands; and the scrupulous integrity
of this powerful chief showed itself, in an amusing
instance, whilst I was at Te Rapa. On returning
one evening with Newman to the kainga, there was
an unusual commotion amongst the natives; and, on
inquiry, we found that an old woman had informed
the chief that some of the young folks had been
eating the sugar belonging to the pakeha; I having
left a small canister at Newman's hut, containing
about half a pound. In order to settle this import-
ant question, Te Heuheu summoned every boy
and girl of Te Rapa within the court-yard of his
dwelling; and not being able to discover the sup-
posed thief, he beat them all round in succession.
Oct. 27th.-I visited the boiling springs which
issue from the side of a steep mountain above Te
Rapa. There are nearly one hundred of them;
they burst out, bubbling up from little orifices in
the ground, which are not more than a few inches in
diameter, and the steam rushes out in clouds with
considerable force: the hill-side is covered with them,
and a river of hot water runs down into the lake.
The soil around is a red and white clay, strongly
impregnated with sulphur and hydrogen gas: pyrites
114
BOILING SPRINGS.
also occur.
Several women were busy cooking
baskets of potatoes over some of the smaller orifices;
leaves and fern were laid over the holes, upon
which the food was placed: I tasted some of the
potatoes, and they were capitally done.
Oct. 28th.-About two miles from this place, on
the edge of a great swampy flat, I met with a
number of boiling ponds; some of them of very
large dimensions. We forded a river flowing swiftly
towards the lake, which is fed by the snows melting
in the valleys of the Tongariro. In many places in
the bed of this river, the water boils up from the
subterranean springs beneath, suddenly changing
the temperature of the stream, to the imminent risk
of the individual who may be crossing. Along
whole tracts of ground I heard the water boiling
violently beneath the crust over which I was tread-
ing. It is very dangerous travelling, for if the crust
should break, scalding to death must ensue.
I am
told that the Roturua natives, who build their houses
over the hot springs in that district, for the sake of
constant warmth at night, frequently meet with fatal
accidents of this kind: it has happened that when a
party have been dancing on the floor, the crust has
given way, and the convivial assembly have been
suddenly swallowed up in the boiling cauldron be-
neath. Some of the ponds are ninety feet in cir-
cumference, filled with transparent pale blue boiling
water, sending up columns of steam. Channels of
boiling water run along the ground in every direc-
TE HEUHEU AND HIS BROTHER.
115
tion, and the surface of this calcareous flat around the
margin of the boiling ponds is covered with beautiful
encrustations of lime and alum, in some parts forming
flat saucer-like figures. Husks of maize, moss, and
branches of vegetable substances were encrusted in
the same manner. I also observed small deep holes
or wells here and there amongst the grass and
rushes, from two inches to as many feet in diameter,
filled with boiling mud, that rises up in large bub-
bles, as thick as hasty puddding: these mud pits
send up a strong sulphurous smell. Although the
ponds boiled violently, I noticed small flies walking
swiftly, or rather running, on their surface. The
steam that rises from these boiling springs is visible
at a distance of many miles, appearing like the jets
from a number of steam-engines.
During my stay at Taupo, I painted Te Heuheu
and his brother, Hiwikau. Te Heuheu sat with the
utmost gravity; as the idea of his portrait going to
England along with that of Te Whero-whero and
the other rangatiras, flattered his consequence and
filled him with pride. Now I have secured the por-
trait of this great man, I have access to all the chiefs
of Taupo, and the candidates for sitters are increas-
ingly numerous and importunate. Being under the
protection of Te Heuheu, he has tapued the hut in
which I am staying, together with all my things; so
that no one can meddle with them, and they are as
safe as if they were in the Bank. Te Heuheu is
generous and hospitable: whatever he gives is freely
116 FALLS OF KO WAIHI, ON TAUPO LAKE.
bestowed; and he does not, like many of the chiefs,
ask for tobacco or payment in return,-he prides
himself upon his rank and dignity, and is glad of an
opportunity to display his hospitality to strangers.
The greenstone ornaments belonging to the old
chief are remarkably fine: his meri poonamu is one
of the largest I have seen, and is formed of semi-
pellucid jade.
Hiwikau, the younger brother of Te Heuheu,
resides in an ornamented house, painted red, at
the extremity of the settlement of Te Rapa, close
to the beautiful fall of Ko Waihi, where that stream
dashes down the cliffs into the lake. Nothing can
exceed the loveliness of the spot: the foaming waters
descend from the adjoining heights with a never-
ceasing music-which, however, is unregarded by the
dwellers hard by, for they are accustomed to it-and
against the rich foliage of evergreens and tree-ferns
the bright red dwellings, in savage heathen style,
stand out in harmonious contrast; then, turning to-
wards the lake, the eye rests with unwearied delight
upon its broad surface-now deeply blue as the over-
hanging vault of heaven, anon dark and troubled,
and broken into white restless foam, by the sudden
squalls that sweep down from the adjoining moun-
tains, and expend their fury upon the lake they
cradle while, far beyond, loom in the distance,
hazy and dense outlines of mountain ranges, whose
altitude is marked by the streaks of snow upon their
summits; the intervening country across the lake
FISHING IN TAUPO LAKE.
117
being ploughed up into strange disorder by volcanic
fires, and clothed with russet fern, on which the sun-
beams play, revealing tints of endless variety and
loveliness. Here, amidst all this wealth of Nature's
choicest scenery, dwell Hiwikau and his wife: yet
they gaze as though they saw it not, utterly regard-
less of the beauty lavished around them.
The houses here are coloured with bright red
clay from the adjoining hot springs; and many of
the storehouses for food are adorned with feathers
and grotesque carved work. In the canoes I have
also observed several of the paddles elaborately
ornamented with arabesque designs in black and
white, produced by charring the wood: Te Heuheu's
son has been ornamenting some for me in a similar
manner.
A large swampy flat, of several miles in extent,
intersected by rivers, borders on this end of Taupo
Lake; and is backed by high mountains, on which,
even at this season of the year, traces of snow still
remain. Tongariro and the Ruapahu are hid from
Te Rapa by the mountain of the boiling springs.
In fine weather, many canoes are out upon the lake
fishing; and the fish they obtain, although small, are
extremely delicious. They have a clever method of
taking them: between two canoes is fastened a net
into which they drive the shoals of small fish, by
means of a pole about twenty feet long, having at
the end tufts of raupo or grass, which they wave:
along the surface of the water.
118
NATURAL HOT BATH.
a
Many of the Taupo natives are Catholics:
French priest came here some time ago, and, with
the aid of beads and crosses, and occasional presents
of a little "weed," he succeeded in making nume-
rous proselytes to the faith of Rome.
Upon the beach of the lake, near Te Rapa, there
is a charming natural hot bath, in which the natives,
especially the young folks, luxuriate daily. Sunset
is the favourite time for bathing; and I have fre-
quently seen, of an evening, at least twenty persons
squatting together in the water, with only their
heads above the surface. Boiling springs burst out
of the ground, close to a large circular basin in the
volcanic rock, which, by the assistance of a little art,
has been rendered a capacious bath: the boiling
stream is conducted into this reservoir gradually, and
the temperature of the water is kept up or decreased
by stopping out the boiling stream with stones,
through which it trickles slowly, whilst the main
body runs steaming into the lake. The medicinal
properties of these hot mineral springs preserve the
natives in a healthy state, and render their skins
beautifully smooth and clear: indeed, some of the
finest people in the island are to be observed about
Taupo; and the beauty and symmetry of the limbs
of many of the youth, would render them admirable
studies for the sculptor.
The Maori or native swing is an amusement
amongst the Taupo people which is obsolete upon
the coast. A pole, generally the trunk of a kaikatea
MAORI SWING.
119
pine, is erected in the centre of an open space ad-
joining the village; flax ropes are suspended from
the top, and, holding on to these, the natives swing
themselves round and round, in a similar manner to
that which is practised in gymnasia and at country
fairs in Europe. The boys here also amuse them-
selves with throwing short spears, made of the
stems of fern bound round at the extremity: these
they throw with admirable precision at any given
object, emulating each other in the nicety of their
aim.
Oct. 28th.—This morning the volcano of Tongariro
has been growling, and violent blasts have swept
down from the lofty regions around, whitening the
now dark and leaden-looking lake with countless
surges; torrents of rain accompanied the gusts of
wind, and the low rumbling sound from the volcano
gave tokens of internal action, the crater sending
forth volumes of steam. The sunbeams occasionally
piercing through the storm clouds produced the most
splendid rainbows imaginable, and the tempestuous
sky presented a succession of grand and magnificent
pictures.
Oct. 29th.-To-day I determined to start for Tonga-
riro. I had in vain attempted to persuade Te Heuheu
to let me have a canoe to cross the lake to Mototiere:
as he said there was considerable danger in crossing
whilst the weather remained so unsettled. The vol-
cano of Tongariro is under a strict tapu from Te
Heuheu, and no one is allowed to attempt the ascent.
120
VOLCANO OF TONGARIRO.
I offered the chief everything that I possessed, in the
shape of blankets and sundry other articles, but to
no purpose: Tongariro was tapu, and that tapu, like
the law of the Medes and Persians, must not be
broken. I left Te Rapa accompanied only by my
lad Rihia; E Pera, having lamed himself, awaited
our return at Taupo Lake. We had Te Heuheu's
permission to visit the pah of Motupoi, which stretches
out into the lake of Roto-aire, at the base of the
stupendous volcano; but he would not permit New-
man to accompany us, and gave me the strictest in-
junction not even to look at the sacred mountain.
Bidding a temporary adieu to the suspicious old
chief, I started with Rihia: had it not been that
I wanted to obtain the portrait of Mungakahu, the
chief of Roto-aire, I should not have been permitted
to go at all; so fearful was Te Heuheu that I should
make improper use of my pencil in delineating the
forbidden mountain.
Wading nearly middle-deep through the swamps
of Tukanu flat, leaving the boiling ponds on our left,
we ascended the hills from which we obtained com-
manding and extensive views of Taupo Lake and
the surrounding scenery. Our path afterwards lay
through a dense forest, but on arriving at the brow
of a hill about twelve miles from Te Rapa, we caught
a glimpse of Tongariro through the branches of the
trees before us. On gaining the open country the
scene was grand and imposing. The lower crater of
the volcano rose before us in all its majesty, the snow

Anana del
Day & Haghe, With to the fueen
PAH OF MOTUPOT.
121
extending about one-third of the way down its
steep sides, while at its base the lake of Roto-
aire lay gleaming like sapphire: the pah of Motu-
poi crowning a neck of land that juts out and
rises like an island from the bosom of the deep lake,
whose tranquil surface reflected every object with
the distinctness of a mirror. Towards the after-
noon the scene changed; a strong wind sprang
up, and the lake looked dark and chill: only that
portion of it exposed to the breeze being dashed
in white foam upon the pumice shore. Squalls of
rain and mist, attracted by the mountain, swept along
its sides, whilst beyond, the sun was smiling upon
the distant fern-clad hills. Arriving at a native
house on the borders of the lake, where about thirty
individuals were congregated together, I left Rihia
and stole away unseen to make my sketch of the
mountain. We then crossed the lake in a canoe, and
landed at the pah of Motupoi, where we passed the
night. This pah is strongly fortified, and at the time
of my visit the natives were busy in completing and
repairing the fortifications; the fact being (though it
was kept a secret) that they were expecting a sudden
attack from the Waikatos in retaliation for an old
offence which had lately been brought into notice.
Mungakahu, the chief of this pah, is a pikopo, or
Roman Catholic; several of his people have also em-
braced Popery, and at sunset they performed their
vespers in front of the chief's house.
The view of Tongariro from this spot was mag-
VOL. II.
G
122
TONGARIRO AT SUNSET.
nificent, as it appeared lit up with all the resplendent
tints of evening: the glow of the setting sun fell
with a roseate warmth on the steeps of the moun-
tain; and after the orb sunk below the horizon,
leaving the deep valleys veiled in gray and purple
twilight, its glory gilded the snow-streaked crater,
and tinged with ruby and orange the volumes of
vapour that rolled up from that vast cauldron. It
was indeed a majestic scene: sublime in its gran-
deur; and I wished there had been other than
savages to have gazed with me upon its glories.
The crater of Tongariro is an immense truncated
cone, giving vent, like an enormous safety-valve, to
the steam and vapours that proceed from the boiling
waters in its subterranean depths. Several other
mountains are grouped with the stupendous peak of
Tongariro, forming one grand mass or cluster; and
the snow extends for a considerable distance down
their sides. Near the termination of the snow,
there are boiling springs, which send up volumes of
steam: forests clothe the lower sides for some miles,
and fern hills commence the ascent. It is only at
intervals that any considerable quantity of steam
issues from the crater: when I first saw the moun-
tain from across the lake there was no appearance of
any vapour, but after sunset it rose in continuous
masses. Owing to the situation of Roto-aire being
so close under the mountain, the grand cone of snow,
which is visible from a distance, and also the Rua-
pahu, are hid by the lower crater.
"
SNOW FIELDS AND GLACIERS.
123
The night was extremely cold and clear; and in
the morning the ground was covered with a white
frost. The altitude even of the lake of Roto-aire
cannot be much less than two thousand feet above
the level of the sea; and the cold brought by the
wind from the neighbouring snow-fields and glaciers,
renders the climate here much more rigorous than
on the coast, where it is tempered by the softening
influence of the ocean.
My lad Rihia, who belongs to the Wesleyans, sang
and prayed out of his book, by himself, aloud.
I supped with the chief upon potatoes and a few
little spotted minnows, which had been caught in the
lake. My only remaining supplies are-about a
tablespoonful of salt, which I highly prize, and a
couple of ounces of tea! No flour, sugar, bread,
butter, or any of the comforts of civilized life. Yet
I am quite contented and happy; though by no
means insensible to such privations: on returning to
civilization I shall probably appreciate and enjoy
those luxuries more than many who never expe-
rienced the want of them.
The night being exceedingly cold, I slept in the
ware pune, or close house :" after a fire had been
lighted inside, and the little den heated to at least
90° of Fahrenheit, I entered it and lay down upon
my blanket; by-and-by, the natives came crawling
in, until the place was crammed full, and then the
door and window were closely fastened by wooden
shutters: the atmosphere was suffocating, and the
G 2
124
ANCIENT REMAINS AT TAUPO.
oppression was so great, that one scarcely dared to
move. After passing the night in this " black hole,"
we came out dripping with perspiration into the
keen frosty air, and saw the sunrise gilding the
vapour that had settled during the night in fleecy
clouds above the summit of Tongariro.
Oct. 30th.-I painted Mungakahu and his wife; and
then, taking leave of the natives, who were preparing
to start for the opposite forests to procure timber for
their fortifications, we crossed the lake, and pro-
ceeded on our way back towards Taupo. As soon
as I was out of the way of the natives, I sent Rihia
onwards, that he might not see me, and made an-
other sketch of the mountain of Tongariro.
done, I shouted in vain for Rihia, and at length
found him some distance onwards, fast asleep upon a
log.
This
Although the morning at Roto-aire had proved so
sharp and cold, the day was warm and sunny amongst
the sheltered glens and belts of forest land through
which we passed on our return to Taupo. About
six miles before we arrived at the lake, we visited
the remains of an extensive pah, where several huge
wooden images still continued to be in a good state of
preservation: some of the stiles in this neighbour-
hood, which connected the plantations for potatoes
and kumeras, were also rudely carved, so as to repre-
sent grotesque figures. After recrossing the swamps
at Tukanu, and passing the boiling ponds, we arrived
late in the afternoon at Te Rapa; where we found
THE OLD PAH AT WAITAHANUI.
125
Newman busily engaged in cooking the remainder of
the pig, in a native oven in the ground between hot
stones.
Oct. 31st.-To-day Newman accompanied me in a
canoe to visit Waitahanui, the old pah of Te Heuheu,
which is situated on the borders of the extensive
swamps at the extremity of the lake, about six miles
across from Te Rapa, the present settlement. This
ancient pah is now in ruins, it having been deserted
some years ago by the present inhabitants of Te
Rapa, on the adoption of their new religion: no
longer fearing the attacks of the Waikatos, who have
mostly embraced Christianity, these people removed
from Waitahanui-once the stronghold of barbarism,
and the scene of numberless cannibal feasts-to the
scattered settlement of Te Rapa, along the margin of
the lake.
Waitahanui pab stands on a neck of low swampy
land, jutting into the lake; and a broad deep river,
forming a delta, called the Tongariro, and by some
the Waikato (as that river runs out again at the
other end of Taupo lake), empties itself near the
pah. The long façade of the pah presents an impos-
ing appearance when viewed from the lake; a line of
fortifications, composed of upright poles and stakes,
extending for at least half a mile in a direction
parallel to the water. On the top of many of the
posts are carved figures, much larger than life,
of men in the act of defiance, in the most savage
and indecent postures, having enormous protruding
126
GREAT PAH OF WAITAHANUI.
tongues; and, like all the Maori carvings, these
images or wakapokokos are coloured with kokowai
or red ochre. The entire pah is now in ruins, and
has been made tapu by Te Heuheu since its deser-
tion. Here, then, all was forbidden ground; but with
the assistance of Newman I eluded the suspicions of
our natives, and rambled all day amongst the decay-
ing memorials of the past, making drawings of the
most striking and peculiar objects within the pah.
The cook-houses, where the father of Te Heuheu
had his original establishment, remained in a perfect
state; the only entrances to these buildings were a
series of circular apertures, in and out of which the
slaves engaged in preparing the food were obliged
to crawl. Near to the cook-houses there stood a
carved patuka, which was the receptacle for the
sacred food of the chief; and nothing could exceed
the richness of the elaborate carving that adorned
this storehouse. I made a careful drawing of it, as
the frail material was falling to decay. Ruined
houses, many of them once beautifully ornamented
and richly carved; numerous wahi tapu and other
heathen remains, with images and carved posts,
occur in various portions of this extensive pah; but
in other places the hand of time has so effectually
destroyed the buildings as to leave them but an
unintelligible mass of ruins. The situation of this
pah is admirably adapted for the security of its
inmates; it commands the lake on the one side, and
the other fronts the extensive marshes of Tukanu,
GREAT PAH OF WAITAHANUI.
127
where a strong palisade and a deep moat afford
protection against any sudden attack. Water is con-
veyed into the pah through a sluice or canal, for the
supply of the besieged in times of war. There was
an air of solitude and gloomy desolation about the
whole pah, that was heightened by the scream of the
plover and the tern as they uttered their mournful
cry through the deserted courts. I rambled over
the scenes of many savage deeds:
ovens, where
human flesh had been cooked in heaps, still re-
mained, with the stones used for heating them lying
scattered around, blackened by fire; and here and
there a dry skull lay bleaching in the sun and wind
-a grim memorial of the past. The house where
Te Heuheu was born is still in good preservation,
and is ornamented with red, black, and white colour-
ing. The temple of his heathen worship is a neat
edifice, and the planks of the roof are elaborately
adorned with red and white angular designs.
The beach, fronting the lake, is all pumice; and
thousands of gulls, tern, and wild ducks, occupy a
small island in the lake, not far from the pah, at the
embouchure of the river Tongariro.
Amidst the ruins of Waitahanui, I had enriched
my portfolio with several sketches of the architec-
tural remains of a people whose ancient arts and
customs are rapidly becoming obsolete; and as I
brought away by stealth the only memorials of the
once powerful stronghold of Taupo, I had to observe
the utmost caution to hide them from the eyes of
128
RETURN TO TE RAPA.
Te Heuheu, who would instantly have destroyed all
sketches had he discovered them.
my
Returning to Te Rapa, with keen appetites for
supper, we found on our arrival at the hut, that all
our food—about twenty pounds of roast pork, cooked
in the native oven yesterday, together with a cake
of dried fish and some cold potatoes-had been
entirely devoured; nothing remaining but the bare
and gnawed bones lying about on the floor of the
hut, which was covered with grease: a number of
half-starved dogs had scraped a hole in the side
of the hut, which was built of reeds, and had
there held a banquet during our absence; several
of them rushing out as we entered. Fortunately we
met a canoe returned from fishing on the lake, that
had brought home a quantity of small fish; which,
with some kumeras supplied to us by Te Heuheu,
somewhat consoled us for the loss of our pork.
129
CHAPTER IV.
TUTUKAMAUNA-VOLCANIC WILDERNESS
-OTAWHAO
THE CHURCH MISSIONARY STATION-REV. J. MORGAN
-RAROERA PAH-NGAHURUHURU-BLIND SOLOMON
WAIPA-RETURN DOWN THE WAIKATO TO AUCK-
LAND.
Nov. 1st.-TO-DAY I made preparations to start from
Te Rapa. The lads, especially E Pera, were very
tiresome: they had grown lazy by their stay at the
kainga of Te Heuheu, and had been so well treated
that they wished to remain longer. Furthermore,
E Pera had found favour in the sight of one of the
damsels of Taupo, and was unwilling to part from
her bewitching influence. They kept me waiting
several hours, saying, "Te Heuheu had desired them
not to start until their bellies were full, that they
might have strength for the journey;" and as Pera
grew saucy, I was at length obliged to drive them to
the canal with my toko toko, or stick, when, seeing
G 5
130
WILD BUSH-DOG.
me determined, they slowly and sulkily took their
seats. They had not paddled far, however, before
good-humour returned, and they were singing and
shouting as merrily as ever. Before I took leave of
Te Heuheu, he made me "kai kai," or eat with him,
which I was to understand as a mark of especial
favour. One of the Taupo natives accompanied us
to the settlement, which we were to reach this
evening.
On landing at the spot where the path led towards
Omurua, we struck through an open country clothed
with fern and wiry grass; isolated hills, with occa-
sional ravines of pumice, and several extensive swamps,
presented themselves during the day.
The dogs belonging to the native who was our
fellow-traveller to Omurua, put up a wild bush-dog,
which was exceedingly fierce, and attacked them
furiously; but, on our running up, it escaped into
the adjoining thickets. It was covered with long
bushy hair, and in appearance greatly resembled a
jackall.
Striking into a belt of forest, we came out, after
seven or eight hours' hard walking, into a potato-
ground, where a number of natives were at work,
digging between the felled kaikatea-trees with their
wooden spades or digging implements, which are
called ko. These were the people of Omurua, a
small settlement, consisting of a few huts, situated
upon a neighbouring eminence, and fenced in with
high palisades. No sooner had we made our appear-
HOSPITALITIES AT OMURUA.
131
"
ance in the distance, than the cry of "te pakeha
resounded through the woods; the women screaming
out, "Haere mai te pakeha," at the highest pitch of
their voices, until the whole settlement was in an
uproar. On arriving at the cooking sheds, we sat
down, and the women all left their work to prepare
us some food. They first offered me some gruel,
which looked black and filthy; and doubtless was so,
being made of putrid potatoes, rotted under water
for some weeks. This they gave to my lads, together
with some cakes of the same nauseous materials,
which were baked in the ashes, and quite black.
The women now prepared the oven, and cooked the
evening meal for the whole settlement. It consisted
of potatoes and sow-thistles, steamed by means of
heated stones, in the following manner :-A number
of large stones had already been made hot upon a
large wood-fire. A deep hole was then dug in the
earth, resembling a little well, and the heated stones
placed in it; the bottom and sides being thickly lined
with fresh fern leaves out of the adjoining wood.
The potatoes were poured in out of the baskets, and
over them was strewn a layer of sow-thistles; a
woman then poured water out of a calabash over the
oven, from whence the steam rose in clouds; more
fresh fern leaves were laid over the top, and the
whole was finally closed over with a mass of chick-
weed and earth. When the time arrived for the
opening of the oven, the contents were distributed to
the surrounding multitude, who were all anxiously
1
132
NEW PLANTS AND INSECTS.
waiting for their frugal meal. A girl was engaged in
making neat round baskets, to contain the food when
ready, from the long leaves of the tawara, or Frey-
cinetia Banksii, a parasite in the woods. It is
astonishing with what rapidity the women plait these
baskets: fresh ones are required for every meal, there
being so many superstitions connected with food
amongst the New Zealanders.
Nov. 2nd.-After passing a cold and wretched night
in a windy shed they called their "ware karakia," or
chapel, which was inhabited by immense fleas, whose
size did not render them less nimble or ravenous,
we started in the rain and wind, through a dismal
and desolate country, composed of broken hills,
ravines, and rocky masses of pumice, intersected by
swamps.
Amongst the wiry grass, or wiwi, of these volcanic
districts, two very beautiful species of moss occur
in considerable abundance: the one is a cup-moss,
with brilliant scarlet sealing-wax-like tips and edges;
the other resembles bushes of white coral. Larks
(Alauda Nova Selandia) are abundant here, and
amongst the grass I captured a new species of but-
terfly, belonging to the genus polyommatus; the latter
has since been described and figured from my speci-
mens by my friend Edward Doubleday, Esq., of the
British Museum.
We crossed a foaming cataract by jumping across
a chasm of rocks, which was our only means of pass-
ing a broad and swiftly-flowing river: it was a dreadful
"
THE “TAPU ANNOYANCE.
133
leap, and had either of us slipped we should have been
dashed to pieces in the raging cauldron of rock-
beaten surf below. A flower, which I have observed
in no other locality, somewhat like the Christmas
primrose, grew on the banks of this river. Large
tracts of fern in this dreary region have been devas-
tated by fire, and add a further gloominess to the
scene.
We stopped to dine on potatoes at a small new
settlement, where the natives were building a couple
of ware punis, or "warm houses," and several plan-
tations appeared in the vicinity. The people here
were exceedingly troublesome about the tapu, and
E Pera was as bad as any of them: they were angry
because my portfolio was placed under the cooking
shed to preserve it from the rain, for E Pera had told
them that it contained the head of Te Heuheu, and
as it is sacrilege for him to enter a place appropriated
to food, it is equally sacrilege for his portrait to be
placed under similar circumstances. At length I
grew vexed, and told them I would put Te Heuheu's
picture into the fire if there was any more ado; at
this E Pera was dreadfully shocked, and talked of
writing a flax letter, to be sent off immediately,
informing the great chief of my wickedness. My
hands are tapu, because they represented the sacred
head; and I am continually subject to some ab-
surd arrogance from this peculiar rite. Occa-
sionally, however, I turn the tapu to my own
advantage; and when the natives tease me to
134 CHEERLESS RECEPTION AT TUTUKAMAUNA.
show them the paintings, I reply that they are all
tapu tapu."
Leaving the new settlement, we travelled on and
on, amid soaking rain, till the shades of evening fell
around us, when we were glad to find ourselves at a
small kainga, consisting of a few huts, enclosed, upon
the summit of a steep hill. Looking back from
hence, over the waste country we had traversed, it
appeared all broken into rocky eminences, stretching
away towards Taupo and Roturua. This place is
called Tutukamauna; and the inhabitants being
Christians belonging to the Waipa mission, there
is a "ware karakia" or "house of worship" here;
though at this time it was unfinished. In this house
I had to sleep in my wet clothes, and next morning
was seized with a violent influenza.
Nov. 3rd.-This day was Sunday, and I was com-
pelled to remain in this exposed place on the top of
the hill, suffering greatly and quite ill from want
of proper food; my supplies having been long ago
exhausted, and it being the Sabbath, the natives
would not stir even to make me a fire: they were
all too much engaged with their devotions. Ill and
miserable as I was, I was obliged to wander about in
the wind and rain, and gather wood for myself to
kindle a fire; for it was intensely cold, the wind
blowing a gale from the southward. Towards even-
ing the weather cleared off, and the sky presented
one unclouded expanse of blue, though the wind
continued as high as before. From this eminence
GRAND SCENERY.
135
the grand cone of Tongariro was visible to me for
the first time, with a cloud of steam issuing from it,
far above the crater seen from the base of the moun-
tain at Roto-aire lake.
Nov. 4th.-A splendid sunrise ushered in a cloudless
day. There was ice, this morning, as thick as a half-
crown, on the loose stones of pumice that bordered the
stream at the foot of the hill of Tutukamauna. The
chief (Pilate) and his wife accompanied us for several
miles along the road; as they were going to a potato
ground in that direction: the woman was heavily
laden with the implements required for agriculture.
All day we travelled through a grassy, but wild-look-
ing country: pumice was everywhere thickly scat-
tered about, and the whole region was exceedingly
desolate. The views of the Ruapahu and Tonga-
riro from this point were magnificent: the broad,
unsullied snows of the former stood out like a pearly
cloud against the blue sky; the high snowy ranges
of the Ruatahina mountains stretched away towards
the south, and the scene was one of vastness and
solitary grandeur. To our left we passed a wooded
range, with a remarkable mountain, having on one
side a rocky peak jutting out abruptly in the form of
a huge cone. We crossed a natural bridge of rock,
over a narrow and fearfully deep chasm, at the
bottom of which a hidden stream foamed beneath
reeds and brushwood: the surrounding scenery was
rocky and wild. Halting at a temporary shed
near a swamp, to cook some potatoes which we
136
PERILS FROM FIRE AND WATER.
had brought with us, the lads set fire to the
grass; and the wind, which was blowing strongly
from the south-west, caused the flames to spread
with such rapidity that the hut was set on fire, and
in a few minutes presented nothing but a heap of
ashes: we had barely time to rush in and rescue our
bundles, and, above all, my precious "puka puka,”
or portfolio. An hour before sunset we arrived at
the banks of the Mungakino, a river about fifty feet
broad. Lower down, the waters are imprisoned, as
it were, between perpendicular walls of rock, through
which they foam and rave dreadfully along the
fathomless abyss, hurrying with impetuous fury
towards a succession of cataracts; and across this
chasm, that yawned black and terrible in the fading
daylight, there had been suspended a swinging
bridge tied together with flax leaves. We dared not
trust ourselves upon this frail support, it being so
rotten that on E Pera testing it, it immediately
gave way; and, having no other alternative, we were
compelled to swim across at the broad part of the
river, just above the falls: the current was rapid,
but we crossed in safety, and all our clothes and
packages were got over dry; the lads swimming with
them upon their heads. As night advanced, we
pushed onwards with redoubled speed, through a
dreary region of pumice hills, and reached the Wai-
papa, a winding stream between pumice banks,
along which grew numerous dragon-trees and brush-
wood of tea-tree: here we found an old shed, and,
DESOLATE VOLCANIC REGION.
137
setting to work, speedily built it up with reeds, so as
to form a tolerable shelter for the night.
Nov. 5th.-The sun rose red over the hills that
skirted the Waipapa, and we started early. The
lads set fire to the hut, that no one else might avail
themselves of its shelter: this is a custom in New
Zealand, arising from the law of tapu. The rain
began to fall before we set off on our day's march; a
heavy leaden-looking sky closed in, and it poured in
torrents until the evening. We had awful travelling
this day: fearful ascents and descents of steep preci-
pices of pumice and lava, and narrow slippery paths,
frequently on the giddy verge of a cliff overhang-
ing some dark and troubled stream. Dense mists
were hanging over thousands of broken hills, that
looked most truly desolate; and volcanic rocks,
high and jagged, rose in abrupt masses, resembling
ruined castles crowning these gloomy heights. This
volcanic wilderness corresponds with the one near
Tuhua, that extends for about sixty miles round
Tongariro; which is the limit of the pumice region
or belt surrounding that stupendous volcano. About
ten miles from Waipapa we descended a very long
and steep precipice down a mountain's side; at the
bottom of which ran a river, rushing between high
masses of rock, and descending in a cascade of
about sixty feet in height. This mountain torrent
was crossed by means of a swinging bridge. The
scenery here was peculiarly romantic; yet it was a
wild and dreary spot: there was not a living thing-
138
A WET WALK.
not the twitter of a bird, nor even the hum of an
insect to break the spell of solitude: we heard
only the torrent's ceaseless roar, dashing down into
that dark, deep glen, and echoed back by the grey
rocks that imprison it.
About three o'clock we suddenly left this volcanic
wilderness, and once more entered upon a tract of
forest. Still the rain came down in a complete
deluge, and the woods were dripping like a shower-
bath; we managed, however, to light a fire, and
cook some potatoes, in the hollow of a spreading
rimu tree. Like moving sops, we travelled on and
on-alternately creeping through tangled liands and
climbing over fallen trees-until late in the after-
noon; when, to our joy, we reached a small potato-
ground, where there were a few native huts. Here
we passed the night in a very smoky cook-house,
where we dried all our clothes; wrapping ourselves
pro tem. in native mats. The house was full of in-
quisitive natives and smoke; and, at the door, num-
berless little dogs were waiting to steal in unobserved:
as fast as they came in, however, they were thrown
out by the natives very coolly, either by their heads
or tails.
Nov. 6th.-The weather having cleared off, we
started early this morning for Otawhao; which we
hoped to reach before night-a distance of upwards
of thirty miles. We passed an old pah, our road
skirting the base of the celebrated mountain of
Maungataritari, and halted to dine at a few huts
MURDER OF A WITCH BY A CHIEF.
139
near a potato-ground, on a hill opposite, in which
the natives were at work. We shouted to them,
but they would not come; until we said that we
were starving, when three old hags came down and
cooked us some potatoes. Here, as usual, there was
a tame kaka upon a fern post.
We passed the ruins of several ancient strongholds,
on the summits of rocky hills, where great cannibal
feasts had formerly been held by the Waikatos, when
they fought and destroyed the hill tribes of Maunga-
taritari.
We met a party of natives travelling towards
the interior. They told us that a woman, a relation of
the chief Ngawaka, had been shot by another chief
for bewitching his son; who was sick, and who died,
after she had attempted to cure him by her magic
art: having no shot, he had loaded his gun with a
stick, and firing it off, pierced her to the heart. As
the woman is nearly related to Ngawaka, it is gene-
rally supposed that a great toua will be demanded
as a compensation for her death.
Travelling on, in sight of the mountains of Koke-
pouke and Perongia on the Waipa, we entered the
fine district that extends towards that beautiful river,
and passed through many native settlements; the
remarkably neat and extensive plantations connected
with them showing the prosperity and industry of
the people belonging to this fertile district.
It was several hours after sunset before we reached
the church missionary station of Otawhao, where I
140
MISSION STATION AT OTAWHAO.
was most hospitably received by the Rev. J. Morgan
and his excellent wife. Nothing could exceed the
kindness I experienced whilst staying under their
roof; and during the few days I passed at Otawhao
my natives recruited their strength, resting with
their friends at one of the neighbouring pahs.
Nov. 7th.-The mission premises of Otawhao are
very comfortable, and there is an appearance of
peace and happiness amidst the native population
around, that speaks well for the worthy mission-
ary's labours. Whilst attending to their spiritual
interests, Mr. Morgan has not neglected the tem-
poral amelioration of those about him: the sick
are cared and provided for, and medicine is admi-
nistered to those that need it; whilst Mrs. Morgan,
who is called " mother," both by young and old, is
unceasing in her kindness and attention to the women
and children: her aid and advice are continually
songht for.
A steady course of persevering industry for a
series of years has enabled Mr. Morgan to have
around him all the little comforts of life; so that,
after undergoing toils and dangers of the most
fearful description, and living for a long period at
the mercy of two belligerent and cannibal tribes, he
is now enabled to dwell at peace, enjoying the fruits
of his labours, and witnessing the beneficent effects
of Christianity amongst a people who, only eight
years ago, held their banquets of human flesh at the
door of the missionary's hut, and shook the severed
SPACIOUS CHAPEL BUILT BY THE NATIVES. 141
and bloody heads and limbs of their enemies in the
very face of his terrified wife!
A small river running into the Waipa flows at the
bottom of the garden; behind the mission house is
an orchard containing fine peach and apple trees,
and a small farmyard extends on one side. On the
opposite bank is a native pah of considerable extent.
Another native pah is situated upon an eminence
beyond the station, and about two hundred yards
from the mission house stands the native chapel, a
large and interesting structure.
On the formation of this mission station, nine years
ago, there was not a single Christian native in the
vicinity, and after the expiration of the first year the
station was removed to a distance of 150 miles; but
five years ago it was again re-formed at Otawhao,
and in a few months about two hundred natives were
gathered into a congregation. They built a chapel,
which was blown down during a gale of wind; they
then completed the present commodious place of
worship, which will comfortably contain upwards of
one thousand natives: it measures 86 feet by 42.
The ridge pole, a single tree-stem, 86 feet in length,
was dragged by the natives from the woods, a distance
of three miles; and all the other timber was likewise
conveyed by them from a similar distance. The
rafters are all detached, and most of the woodwork is
fastened together with flax; the sides are beautifully
worked with fern stalks, tied together in cross-stitch
with aka, a species of wild climber, which gives to it
142
PREVALENCE OF INFANTICIDE.
a rich and finished appearance. The entire design
originated with the natives, who formed this spacious
building without rule or scale, and with no other
tools than their adzes, a few chisels, and a couple of
saws. After the erection of the framework, the
season was so far advanced, that, fearing they should
not be able to complete it in time, the Otawhao
people requested a party of one hundred Maunga-
taritari natives to assist them in its completion; to
whom they gave the entire sum that had been paid
them by the Missionary Society, amounting in value
to about 237. sterling; they also killed a couple of
hundred pigs, that their friends might live well
during the time devoted to their assistance. The
windows, which are of a gothic shape, and thirteen
in number, were fetched from Tauranga on the coast
-a distance of seventy-five miles from Otawhao-by
fourteen men; who carried them on their backs, over
mountains and through forests, without any payment
whatever. The whole tribe, amounting to about
600 or 700 natives, are now nearly all Christianized.
Infanticide formerly prevailed to a fearful extent :
children were generally destroyed on the second or
third day after birth; but if it happened that the
infant was suffered to live longer than three days, it
was rarely killed: the mother having in that time
become attached to her offspring. Weakly or de-
formed children, however, were in all cases put to
death, being considered unfit for flight in war. One
woman at Matamata confessed to having put to
PUPPIES SUCKLED BY A WOMAN.
143
death six of her children in succession, “that she
might be strong to run away from the fight!" And
another woman, now living with Mrs. Morgan, de-
stroyed all her children up to the period of her
embracing Christianity: she would not even look at
them for fear she should love them! Rangitatau,
a girl of Roturua, who for some time lived at the
mission-station of Otawhao, married and had a female
child. One cold night, when on a visit to Tarama-
takitaki, a great chief, she borrowed a garment from
him to wrap herself in: during the night, the insects
annoyed her so much that, according to the native
custom, she caught and ate them. Next day, the
infant was taken ill; this she attributed to her hav-
ing eaten the sacred insects upon the tapu garment
of the chief, for which the "atuas" were angry,
and had punished her by afflicting her child with
disease. The child grew worse, and she thereupon
strangled it, thinking it was bewitched. She after-
wards took a puppy and brought it up by suckling
it at her breast, assigning as the reason for this,
"that it might be strong to catch pigs !"—and she
boasted to Mrs. Morgan that there was no dog like
it, and that no pig, however ferocious, was able to
contend with it! She had a second child, which she
reared; and with it, at the other breast, she suckled
a second pup: but the dog deprived the infant of its
nutriment. Mrs. Morgan one day accidently dis-
covered this; and finding that the poor infant was
reduced to a little skeleton, she made it a flannel
144
CANNIBALISM A LUXURY.
dress, and succeeded in persuading the mother to
abandon the pup. This woman has since embraced
Christianity, and has reared no more little dogs; yet
her subsequent children have all pined and died!
It is not more than eight years ago since Mrs.
Chapman, the wife of the missionary at Roturua,
had her infant scholars taken away from her by their
parents to partake of cannibal feasts; and when she
attempted to prevent it they told her "that human
flesh was sweeter than pork.'
""
It is customary for the oldest boy and girl of
a family to eat the sacred food offered to the
dead, at the raising and scraping of the bones of
a deceased parent from the wahi tapu. This is
done in order to remove the tapu; to which the
person who raised the bones is subjected by so
doing, as he is not allowed to partake of food until
the tapu is taken off. When the girl has eaten,
the tapu is removed; but, should the girl happen to
be dead, they then put food into a calabash, and
placing it within the enclosure of the wahi tapu, say,
addressing her by name,-" Here is your food."
This is supposed to answer the same end. Should
there be no daughter, the nearest relative of the
deceased supplies her place in the removal of the tapu.
About four miles from Otawhao are the ruins
of Raroera, formerly one of the finest pahs in this
part of New Zealand. Much good carving, and
many elaborately ornamented houses, still remain.
These, however, are gradually rotting away and fall-
RICHLY CARVED MAUSOLEUM.
145
a
ing to the ground, amidst the damp and decay of
this deserted enclosure. In many places the rank
vegetation had so completely overgrown some of
these fallen vestiges of Maori art, that I was com-
pelled to clear it away in order to examine them.
I spent whole days in exploring this ruined pah, and
making drawings of a few of the most remarkable
buildings and other works that have not yet yielded
to the all-subduing hand of time. At Raroera stands
the finest carved monument in New Zealand
papatupapakau, or mausoleum, erected by Te Whero
Whero to his favourite daughter. It was on the death
of this girl that Te Whero Whero cursed the sur-
rounding chiefs, and was compelled to give Tariki of
Pari Pari the armour that Hongi brought from Eng-
land as a present from George IV. This extraordi-
nary monument was entirely carved by one individual,
a lame man, named Parinui; and, what is still more
extraordinary, his only tool was the head of an old
bayonet. The tomb is about twelve feet high, in the
form of a box, with a projecting roof, supported by
grotesque figures. The carving is exceedingly rich;
the eyes of the figures are formed of pawa, or pearl-
shells (haliotis), and the feathers of the kaka and the
albatross are used for decorating the seams of the
wood-work, Parinui is a celebrated carver and
practiser of the art of tattooing: hence he is also a
tohunga, or priest. The natives, on seeing my draw-
ing of the papatupapakau, were utterly astonished,
and fetched Parinui himself, who said, I was
nui tohunga"-"a great priest !"
VOL. II.
H
"ka
146
EXPLOITS OF HOROMONA MARAHAU,
One of the most interesting individuals at the
mission station of Otawhao is Horomona Marahau,
or "Blind Solomon," who has for some years acted
very efficiently as a native catechist and teacher in
connection with the Church Missionary Society.
The account of the early life and exploits of this
once celebrated warrior, and his subsequent change
to Christianity, as narrated to me from his own lips
and translated by Mr. Morgan, affords a fair example
of the troubled life of many of the New Zealand
chiefs. From a boy, Horomona accompanied his
father on all his fighting expeditions. At the taking
of a pah at Waingaroa, he saw great numbers captured
as slaves; he then went to Hanga, where many were
slain and eaten; and at the taking of the great pah at
Maungataritari forty men were killed, besides women
and children, and all eaten. At a second fight at
Maungataritari, whither Horomona accompanied his
father, sixty men were killed and eaten. After this,
an attack was made by the Nga ti Raukawa tribe upon
the pah in which Horomona resided; the assailants
retreated, and were pursued by Horomona and his
party, but the Nga ti Raukawas rallied again, turned
back upon their pursuers, and slew upwards of
one hundred of them, Horomona himself narrowly
escaping. At Kawhia fight, sixty were killed and
eaten. At Mokau, Horomona's party were beaten
off and two hundred of them killed: here the chief
met with another hair-breadth escape. Returning
to Mokau, Horomona succeeded in taking the pah,
OR BLIND SOLOMON.
147
when two hundred were killed and eaten, and num-
bers of women and children taken as slaves. During
the engagement Horomona took the principal chief
prisoner, but finding that on a former occasion his
own brother had been saved by this chief, Horomona,
as an act of gratitude, led his captive to the moun-
tains, to enable him to get clear of his enemies, and
then let him go. The next expedition of Horomona
was to Poverty Bay, where two hundred men were
killed and eaten, or taken as slaves. He then went
to Kapiti, and from thence to Wanganui; the in-
habitants of both pahs flying at his approach. After
this, Taranaki became the seat of war, great numbers
being continually killed on both sides, and cannibal
feasts held almost daily. At Waitara, Horomona and
his tribe were attacked by Rauparaha's party, and
ten of their number killed; they then fled to Pouki-
rangiora, where they were surrounded by Rauparaha
and his followers, and remained besieged for several
months. When at length their supplies of food were
completely exhausted, they contrived to send out a
spy by night, who passed through the enemy's en-
campment, and reached the mountains in safety;
travelling along the forest ranges until he reached
the Waikato district, where he gave information of
the condition of the besieged. Te Whero Whero
and Waharoa of Matamata, the father of Tarapipipi
the present chief of that place, went to their rescue
with a large party; they were, however, all beaten
off by Rauparaha, and twenty of their number killed;
H 2
148
EXPLOITS OF HOROMONA MARAHAU.
but the Waikatos again rallied, renewed the attack,
rescued their friends, beat back Rauparaha, and
returned home in triumph. After this, the Nga Puis
from the Bay of Islands, headed by the famous
E Hongi (Shongi), who had just then returned from
England with fire-arms and gunpowder, came down
upon them like a host, and made an attack upon the
great Waikato pah called Matuketuke; the Waikatos
had only native weapons with which to beat off their
enemies, and with so unequal an advantage the Nga
Puis took the pah in a few minutes. Horomona and
Te Whero Whero were amongst the captured in-
mates. At this dreadful carnage two thousand were
slain; feasts were held upon the dead bodies on the
spot where they lay, and all manner of savage and
dreadful rites were held in unrestrained licentious-
ness to commemorate this great victory of the Nga
Puis. The bones of the two thousand still lie whiten-
ing on the plains, and the ovens remain in which the
flesh of the slaughtered was cooked for their horrible
banquets. So numerous were the slaves taken during
this attack, that the Nga Puis killed many of them
on their road to the Bay of Islands, merely to get
them out of the way. The escape of Horomona
from the general slaughter was almost miraculous:
he fled to the mountains, and after the retreat of
their northern enemies, his tribe once more collected
together and marched to Poverty Bay, where the
pah was taken by them, and six hundred were killed,
and eaten after the fight was over. Not long sub-
MAKETU HOUSE.
149
sequent to the attack on the inhabitants of Poverty
Bay, Horomona became blind at Otawhao, where he
first met with the missionaries; at Matamata he heard
the Rev. H. Williams preach, and at length became
a convert to Christianity. For the last four years
Horomona has been a native teacher under the Rev.
J. Morgan; and may be seen every Sabbath-day
with his class, instructing them in the truths of the
Scriptures with an earnestness and energy truly
admirable. He is now about to start on a journey
of ninety miles to preach Christianity to a tribe
that have not yet received it. The memory of
Horomona is quite wonderful: he knows the whole
of the church service by heart, and repeats hymns
and many long chapters verbatim: at a late exami-
nation in the catechism, Horomona was the only
individual who knew every word correctly.
Not far from the mission-house, is the old and
ruined pah of Otawhao, where one solitary building
continues in a state of tolerable preservation. It is
called Maketu House, and is one of the finest
remains of Maori ornamental architecture still ex-
tant; and the number of savage figures which are
carved in wood around the roof, impart to it a
grotesque and heathen aspect. This house was
erected by Puata, in commemoration of the taking
of Maketu on the east coast, by the people of his
tribe; and the carved figures are intended to repre-
sent the various warriors who fell in battle, or were
engaged in the fight: all having their tongues pro-
150
CONVERSION OF PUATA.
truding as a mark of the extreme defiance with
which they regard their enemies. Puata was the
principal chief, and the greatest warrior of his tribe,
and was most active and influential in carrying on
the Roturua war; and until his last illness he had
not only rejected Christianity, but treated it with
contempt. During his illness, however, Puata was
visited by Mr. Morgan, who, after considerable diffi-
culty, persuaded him to take medicine, instead of
trusting to the sorcery and charms of the heathen
Tohungas; and so wrought upon the mind of the
heathen chief, that at last he embraced that religion
he had once despised: he had a school established
within the pah, and as he lay sick he was accus-
tomed to call his people round him, and hold morn-
ing and evening prayers. In this state he lingered
several months, when he was removed to Whata-
whata: his last words to his people were, " Receive
the word of God, and hold fast on Jesus Christ."
Amidst the decaying ruins of the pah of Otawhao I
found the pahu or war-bell, an instrument now fallen
into disuse, and regarded as obselete; it was only
sounded when an enemy was expected. It is an
oblong piece of wood, about six feet long, with a
groove in the centre; and being slung by ropes of
flax, was struck with a heavy piece of wood, by a
man who sat on an elevated scaffold, crying out at
every stroke the watchword of alarm.*
It was
only during the night that the pahu was sounded,
* See vignette, title-page.
SOUNDING THE WAR-BELL.
151
for the purpose of informing the enemy that the
inmates of the pah were awake, and also to let the
people of the pah know that the sentinel is on the
look out.
Its sound is a most melancholy one;
the dull heavy strokes breaking with a solemn mono-
tony on the stillness of the night: tolling, as it were,
the death-knell of many to be slain on the morrow.
The tolling of the war-bell, and the horrid yells of
the "poukana," or war-dance, were often the only
sounds that met the ears of the missionary at Mata-
mata for weeks together; now the Matamata con-
gregation amounts to upwards of four hundred, and
the nightly sound of the war-bell is exchanged for
the songs of their karakia, or evening worship.
Only ten years ago those missionaries, who are
now dwelling in peace and safety, were oft-times
compelled to witness slaughter and bloodshed, even
in their own dwellings. During the Roturua war,
their wives and children were frequently hid in
swamps for successive days and nights, afraid even
to kindle a fire until after dark, lest the curl of
smoke should betray their retreat to the enemy's
tribe. At the plunder of the mission station by the
wild Roturuans, Mr. Morgan, with his wife and their
infant child, had to bury a change of clothes in the
garden by night, that they might not be left utterly
destitute.
Besides the war-bell, a war-horn or pah-trumpet
was occasionally used by the people in this part of
New Zealand. It was styled putara putara, and was
152
SETTLEMENT OF NGAHURUHURU.
a tube usually about seven feet long, hollowed out of
hard wood, and widened towards the end whence
the sound issued, by means of several pieces of wood
fastened together with flax, like the staves of a cask :
towards the mouth-piece it was carved with a gro-
tesque figure. This trumpet was placed over the
fence-work of the pah, and during periods of alarm
was blown by the inhabitants: its loud roaring
sound was heard at a distance of several miles on a
calm night.
Most of the Otawhao natives are now at Whata
Whata on the Waipa, planting kumeras for the great
hui hui, or feast, to be given by old Te Whero Whero
during the next season. Those who remain behind
are employed in gathering tawaras, which are now
abundant in the woods; the tawara, as before men-
tioned, being the fleshy bracteæ of the Freycinetia
Banksii.
At Ngahuruhuru, a native settlement about four
miles from Otawhao, I painted Kahawai, the prin-
cipal chief, and also Hongi Hongi, the celebrated
Taranaki warrior; who, at the capture of one of the
pahs near Mount Egmont, took sixty slaves, and
drove them before him with his greenstone meri, like
a flock of sheep, for a distance of 180 miles. Some
of the natives in this neighbourhood have come the
distance of several miles to see my portrait of Te
Heuheu at Taupo. Those natives who are still
heathen are generally styled "devils" by the Chris-
tianized people; and they themselves adhere to the
FUNERAL OF A NATIVE CHILD.
153
appellation. Hongi Hongi, after shaking his head
in answer to my inquiry as to whether he was a
“mihonari" or a "pikopo" (Catholic), confessed with
evident delight that he was a "devil.”
Sunday, Nov. 10th.-This morning I accompanied
Mr. Morgan to Ngahuruhuru, where he has a neat
chapel about half the size of the one at Otawhao.
Nearly one hundred natives had already assembled
for the morning service, amongst whom were Kaha-
wai and Te Waro. Hongi Hongi was there also,
but he came more out of curiosity than otherwise.
Blind Solomon accompanied us from Otawhao, led
by a native lad with a stick; Solomon taking hold of
one end of it.
I witnessed the funeral of a native child which
took place after the service at Ngahuruhuru: one of
the little inclosures surrounding the Christian graves
was on one side broken away, and a shallow grave,
not more than two feet deep, had been dug to
receive the corpse. Presently the funeral procession
came winding up from the kainga; the corpse being
followed by about thirty natives, the friends and
relations of the child, who walked one by one,
wrapped in their mats and blankets; the mourners
distinguished by white feathers or clematis, which
they wore in their hair. The coffin, carried upon
the shoulder of one of the native teachers, was com-
posed of two canoe-shaped pieces of wood, neatly
covered with red cotton handkerchiefs nailed over it:
red being the colour of mourning amongst the New
H 5
154
CHAPEL AT NGAHURUHURU,
Zealanders. Two of the nearest relatives of the
child climbed the inner rail of the grave, and lowered
the coffin into the grave by means of flax leaves tied
together. A portion of an old canoe being placed
over the coffin, the earth was shovelled in; and,
after the missionary had read a short service, Blind
Solomon pronounced an oration over the grave,
around which several hundred natives were as-
sembled. This address, every sentence of which
was translated to me by Mr. Morgan as it was
uttered, was one of the finest and most impassioned
bursts of eloquence I ever heard.
•
The chapel at Ngahuruhuru is prettily situated;
a grove of peach trees stands on one side, and a
plantation of gigantic flax partly surrounds it. Much
of the land in this neighbourhood is under cultiva-
tion, and the inhabitants appear in a prosperous and
thriving condition.
Nov. 11th.-This afternoon I started for the Waipa
river, a distance of twelve miles, with Mr. Morgan's
horse and his good-natured lad Ringi-ringi. At four
miles we met Mr. Ashwell from Pepepe, who was
coming to Otawhao to procure medicine for his
dying child: he had travelled nearly sixty miles.
I persuaded him to mount Mr. Morgan's horse to
Otawhao, and proceeded on foot towards the Waipa,
with my two lads, and also two natives who had a
canoe waiting for me at a small settlement on the
banks of the river. We paused, as we passed the
plains of Matuketuke, under the shadow of the
RECOLLECTIONS OF SLAUGHTER.
155
mountain of Perongia. The bones of the two thou-
sand slain lay whitening there in the sweet sunshine
of the afternoon; and it was difficult to believe that
so calm and lovely a spot had once been the scene
of so dire a tragedy.
My lads were talking about the past, as we sat on
the hill-side overlooking this field of blood: one of
them was a Nga Pui of Hongi's tribe, the other
belonged to the family of the slaughtered Waikatos;
and the ancestors of both had engaged in mortal
conflict at Matuketuke. The elder, E Pera, told
me that he remembered well, when a little boy at
the Bay of Islands, his father returning from the
fight, and the troops of slaves that accompanied the
arrival of the conquerors.
At sunset we reached the banks of the deep, still
Waipa, and passed the night at a small kainga on
the brow of a high bank overlooking the river; the
smooth stream flowing gently onward, at the rate of
about four miles an hour.
Nov. 12th.-We started early in a small kopupa or
river canoe, and were all day pulling and gliding
down the stream. At two o'clock we reached
Whatawhata, where about a thousand natives, with
Te Whero Whero, were assembled at the plantations.
Here we landed, in order that I might paint Moke-
rau, the chief of Otawhao, to whom I had a letter
from Mr. Morgan, explaining my errand. Mokerau
came down from the potato-ground along with two
other chiefs, and it was not until after a grave
156
A MISSION OF PEACE.
debate had been held that the chief expressed him-
self willing to have his portrait taken; he then
motioned to me with his hand in the most majestic
manner, to remain until he returned with his war-
mat and meri from one of the adjoining houses.
After the sitting was over, Mokerau expressed a
wish to join me at my dinner, and we sat down
together, having but one plate and pannikin between
us. He relished the tea very much, and did ample
justice to a cold fowl supplied me by the kindness
of Mrs. Morgan; and appeared to enjoy the repast
greatly.
Being pressed for time, I was unable to paint the
two other chiefs named in Mr. Morgan's note; and
one of them—a fine fellow, and a near relation of
Te Whero Whero-stood upon the high bank of the
river, as our canoe pushed off, shaking his tomahawk
at me, and upbraiding me for not taking his portrait
as well as that of Mokerau.
Mokerau is the principal chief of Otawhao, and
has for some years been a convert to Christianity.
Last winter he went, accompanied only by Awaitaia
or William Naylor of Waingaroa, into the midst of
his enemies at Roturua; with whom he had waged
a deadly war for nine years, which had not then
been concluded. The object of this bold and singu-
lar mission was to produce a good feeling and con-
clude the war; and it had its desired effect; for the
two chiefs were well received, and a great feast
held in honour of their visit. Mokerau had been
I
VOYAGE DOWN THE WAIKATO.
157
present at all the principal battles; and when he got
up to speak, he begged the chiefs to conclude the
war, and proposed that a bond of union should be
entered into between the two tribes. The friends
of Mokerau and Awaitaia feared that their chiefs
would be killed and eaten; instead of which they
returned home much pleased with their visit; and
since that period the Roturua war has been at an end.
We left Whatawhata and proceeded down the
river towards Pepepe on the Waikato, which place
we reached some hours after sunset. The night
was bitterly cold and the wind and rain were
unusually violent, whilst the thunder reverberating
amongst the distant hills, and the repeated flashes
of lightning that illumined for a moment the dark
objects along the banks of the river, combined to
render our evening journey a dreary one; the lights
of the mission-house were therefore welcomed by us
all with peculiar gratification.
Nov. 13th.-From Pepepe I proceeded in a canoe
to Tuakau, about sixty miles further down the
Waikato; and joining a Christian chief called
"Moses,” who was starting for Waikato heads, with
his wife, little son, and two females-the one a
rangatira, and the other a slave-girl-we all em-
barked together at Kaitote. We had not proceeded
far down the river before we fell in with Te Paki
and his wife, whose portraits I had taken some
weeks previously; they saluted us, and put some
kumeras on board for the pakeha. The golden
158
BEAUTIFUL FOLIAGE.
blossoms of the kowai were over, but the green
leaves had made their appearance, and the drooping
foliage was very graceful and lovely. The flax
(Phormium tenax) was full of long blown spikes
bursting into bloom; the dragon trees, which were
filled with tuis, had put forth clusters of white
blossoms, that emitted a charming fragrance; and the
tohi-tohi grass appeared exceedingly beautiful, adorn-
ing, in the utmost profusion, both sides of the river
with its feathery and cream-coloured plumes. We
had showers and occasional thunder during the day.
The long reaches of the Waikato were so rough,
that we had to creep along close to the banks with
our heavily-laden canoe; and as we glided down
the stream by moonlight, beneath the overhanging
shadows of the dense forests that clothe its banks,
the perfume of spring blossoms filled the air, and
the low cry of the goatsucker sounded from beneath
the adjoining underwood.
By the side of the river my lads descried a dead
pig, which they procured and carried on in the
canoe; and when we landed, at sunset, to cook some
food on the margin of a wood, E Pera cleaned and
singed it, and cooked it whole over a large wood fire.
The evening meal of my fellow-travellers con-
sisted of a large crock-ful of hot putrid corn-gruel;
the slave-girl ate alone after the others had finished;
and at a distance from these savoury odours I was
regaling myself with a green gooseberry-pie, sup-
plied me by the "good mother" at Otawhao.
MIDNIGHT EJECTMENT.
159
On and on we went, till long after the last streaks
of the parting day had faded from the west. The
young moon was bright, and wild clouds hurried
along the sky. It was twelve months this day
since poor Wilson was drowned; the Pleiades shone
bright as on that night, and clouds as black and
portentous scoured the sky-bringing to memory
those flitting masses that cast their shadows over the
South Atlantic, and caught the cold silvery moon-
light upon their edges as they hastened past.
Before daybreak we reached Tuakau, at which
place "Moses" had, on leaving Pepepe, promised
to land me. From this spot a path leads through
the woods to Waitemata, whither we were to pro-
ceed on foot next day. We groped about under
the dark forest for a considerable time, before we
could find a nikau shed, which we were in quest of,
upon the banks of the river; at last we heard the
squeaking of pigs, and proceeding in the direction
of the sound, discovered a long shed open on two
sides. This was the customary resort for native
travellers who pass the night at Tuakau, where there is
no settlement; and at this midnight hour the many
sleepers who had taken up their night's quarters
beneath the shed, did not anticipate being disturbed.
On our approach we found it full of wild hogs,
which E Pera soon put to flight by rushing in
amongst them with a blazing fire-brand; they
scampered off in all directions, and we had literally
160
PAPÁKOURA.
to empty the pigsty, before we could obtain a night's
odging.
Imagining we were now in full possession of the
hut we had thus taken by storm, we kindled a blazing
fire and made ourselves remarkably comfortable,
when, on suddenly looking round to the corner where
I had spread my blanket, I saw, filling my intended
place, a large pig, that had entered through a hole in
the reeds of the shed. Although we finally prevented
the porcas from again taking up their repose with us,
yet they remained all night about the hut in a restless
body, grunting, squeaking, and making a terrible
confusion.
Nov. 14th.-We crossed to Tuakau, where we left
"Moses" and his canoe. The rain fell all the morning,
and we travelled through continuous forests, gathering
the luscious tawaras, with which we regaled ourselves
pretty freely. Towards evening the sun came out
and gilded the rich tints of the forests as we ap-
proached Tuimata, the kainga of the chief Haimona,
where we passed the night.
Nov. 15th.-We started early; the hope of reach-
ing Auckland this night lent a fresh impetus to our
steps, and we travelled on at a brisk rate towards
Papakoura, where we fully anticipated procuring a
meal of potatoes. On our arrival we discovered that
there was not a single native at the settlement: it
had been deserted in consequence of the famine
caused by the extravagance of the late feast, the
EUROPEAN DREAD OF CANNIBALS.
161
present crops not yet being ready. At our friend
Captain Smale's we were sufficiently fortunate to
obtain a little bread and milk. The first Europeans
we saw were two splitters, working for Captain
Smale; they asked me if I had been shipwrecked at
Manakao: my bare feet probably leading them to this
conjecture, and when I told them that I had been
through the interior and living with the natives, they
shrugged up their shoulders, and could not under-
stand how it was that I had not been eaten up by
what they called "merciless cannibals.”
An hour after sundown we reached Auckland,
having travelled on foot thirty-five miles during the
day. Here I once more exchanged savage for civi-
lized life, and met with every hospitality and comfort
from my numerous friends, to whom I narrated my
adventures in the "bush."
The next day my lads left me-E Pera to go on
to the Bay of Islands, and Rihia to return to the
peaceful valley of the Waipa. The payment which I
made each of them consisted of a couple of large
blankets, a regatta shirt, and a pair of trousers, with
which they were highly delighted and perfectly
satisfied.
A few days after my arrival at Auckland, a brigan-
tine, bound for Sydney in New South Wales, cast
anchor in the harbour of Waitemata. I had been
rambling with some friends amongst the adjoining
hills, enjoying the sweet scent of the spring blossoms,
and gazing with admiration over the broad gulf,
7
162
ARRIVAL OF A BRIGANTINE.
studded with islands that lay in purple repose upon
its waters, bathed in the soft and mellow sunlight of
a spring evening in the South Pacific.
As we
watched the little vessel furl her sails, I welcomed
her arrival with delight; hoping in a few days to be
again on the waters, homeward bound to Australia,
with the vessel's course directed towards the setting
sun.
CHAPTER V.
THE ISLAND OF KAWAU AND ITS MINES-THE BAY
OF ISLANDS HONI HEKI
KORORARIKA-VOYAGE
65
""
TO NEW SOUTH WALES-A BRICKFIELDER -AR-
RIVAL AT SYDNEY-VOYAGE TO ADELAIDE-FLIN-
DER'S ISLAND RETURN TO SYDNEY—PORTLAND
BAY-PORT PHILIP HEADS,
I LEFT Auckland towards the close of November,
embarking one evening on board the brigantine
Coolangatta, a little vessel of only 88 tons. The
next morning found us at anchor off the small island
of Kauwau; where we were detained several days
in order to load the vessel with copper ore: the pro-
duce of the mines recently discovered there.
Kawau is a steep, rocky island, twenty-five miles in
circumference; distant about thirty miles from Auck-
land, and about four from the mainland at Matakana.
It is one of the numerous islands that stud the gulf
of Hauraki. Opposite to where the vessel lay, was
the copper-mine, consisting of several lateral borings,
or excavations, in the rocky sides of a steep hill,
164
through which runs a broad vein of ore.
ISLAND OF KAWAU AND ITS MINES.
About
twenty miners were at work, breaking up the ore and
filling small bags ready for loading the vessel. For
eight days we lay at anchor in this open roadstead;
during which time the weather was so squally and
unsettled that the boats were frequently unable to
land.
Kawau belongs to the Scottish Loan Company;
and it is anticipated that a profitable speculation will
be made of the ores, with which the island abounds.
Silver has been met with in several places as well
as copper. Although considerably richer than the
Cornish ores, this island has yielded nothing to
compare in quality with the South Australian ores,
or even with some procured on the Great Barrier
Island.
Kawau, like most of the surrounding islands, is
totally unfit for agricultural or grazing purposes,
being of a poor soil, without an acre of level land:
the entire island is broken into an infinitude of
steep hills and gullies, which are in many places
clothed with dense forest or brush. The coast is
rocky, and indented with many picturesque and
sheltered bays, that terminate in sandy beaches.
Nothing can exceed the loveliness of some of these
fairy-like bays: the water, sheltered on all sides by
the steep hills, is clear and blue, and so transparent
that the fish may be seen sporting in thousands
through the cool element; and the dark overhanging
trees, that spread their shade over the banks, are
ISLAND OF KAWAU.
165
there mirrored in the glassy pools beneath. At the
head of these bays there is generally a stream
gushing out from between the hills, its borders
luxuriant to excess with the rank growth of flax
and tohi-tohi grass, and embowered with every
variety of rich evergreen foliage. The mangrove
fringes the margin of these sunny inlets; and splen-
did pohukatoa-trees, that at this season become
covered with a sheet of deep crimson blossom, spread
like rugged oaks from the shore. The yellow kowai,
too, during the early spring, scatters its golden
blossoms in gay profusion over the water's bosom.
On the tortuous and decaying branches of some
old pohukatoa-tree, along the margin of the more
sheltered bays, sit thousands of shags and cormo-
rants, watching their finny prey in the clear shal-
lows beneath; and their social nests occupy the
most unapproachable and overhanging branches: as
many as twenty being frequently built in the same
tree. The wild pigeon and the tui abound here;
the latter now revelling amongst the blossoms of the
pohukatoa-trees, and extracting, with its long and
slender tongue, the honey contained within the
crimson clusters. The hum of bees is all around;
and their low dreamy murmurings, as they wander
from flower to flower, is a pleasant sound, in accor-
dance with the glad sunshine of a southern spring.
During the eight days we lay at Kawau, my two
fellow-passengers and myself lived on shore, amus-
ing ourselves with shooting, fishing, and eating oys-
166
AROMATIC GUM OF THE COWDIE PINE.
:
ters. The entire coast is surrounded with rocks,
which are uncovered at low water, and afford multi-
tudes of the ostrea cristata, or coxcomb oyster. These
afforded us a never-failing supply of food; and the
ingenuity required to open them with an iron nail
added considerably to their relish for hours and
hours we might have been seen busily employed in
gathering oysters; indeed our time appeared wholly
devoted to procuring our own sustenance on this
island where, however, we preferred passing the
interval employed by the miners in lading the ves-
sel, to remaining on board the brigantine.
:
Dec. 1st.-The morning was passed in rambling
through the woods, shooting wild pigeons; and in
the afternoon we crossed in a whale-boat to the
mainland, at a place called Matakana, where there
was a sandy beach, with two or three huts belonging
to sawyers' families.
Up a small ravine in the dense forest, we came to
a saw-pit, close to which were growing some magni-
ficent coudie pines; one of which had been felled,
and was affording employment for the sawyers, who
were cutting it into planks for exportation. At the
foot of these trees are to be found masses of gum,
which exudes from their trunks; large quantities of
this substance are also to be met with beneath the
ground, in many spots on which the cowdie-trees
formerly grew, but which are now clothed only with
fern or peat.
The cowdie gum is a clear resin, having a very
A FORAGING PARTY.
167
strong aromatic flavour. It is chewed by the north-
ern natives; and the greatest compliment an old
Maori woman can pay to a guest, is to offer him the
well-masticated quid of cowdie gum which she takes
from her own mouth.
Dec. 3rd.—On the opposite side of the island to
where the brigantine lay, was a hut belonging to the
superintendent of the mine; here we had been in-
vited to take up our quarters, and it was intimated
that the “hut-keeper” would provide for our tempo-
ral necessities. No provisions appearing with the
exception of a morsel of salt junk, which was flung
out of the window in disgust by one of my comrades
-we held a council, and set to work in good earnest
Owen went out fish-
to supply ourselves with food.
ing in a little dingy, Bicknell gathered oysters and
shot tuis, whilst I rummaged the garden; and, to the
infinite joy of my companions, I had a dish of green
peas, with three other sorts of vegetables, besides
salad, to add to the general stock. Although the
salmon were unwilling to be caught, my companions
brought in a couple of pigeons and some tuis; and
we milked a cow that was grazing amongst the fern.
We had now nothing to do but to cook our hard
earned dinner. The "hut-keeper" had procured
some grog, and we found him dancing about as tipsy
as possible; so, after shutting him up in an adjoining
shed, we made friends with a Maori woman, who
resides on this side of the island, to cook our repast.
She was an obliging soul, but had no knowledge
168
KORORARIKA AND THE BAY OF ISLANDS.
whatever of European cookery: she cut the pigeons
in half, fried the lettuces, and put the milk into the
tea-pot with the tea.
On the 6th we decamped precipitately from the
hut, and, crossing the island, sought refuge at the
mine. Here we were little better off; for the miners
having completed the loading of the vessel, were
mostly drunk, and kept up a dreadful noise all
night.
Dec. 7th.-Went on board the vessel. It blew a
strong gale; we could not get up the anchors, and
were on a lee shore. After narrowly escaping a
wreck, at sunset we beat round to the adjoining bay,
and the wind moderating, we set sail next morning
for the Bay of Islands.
Dec. 9th. We were becalmed off the "Poor
Knights:" several remarkable looking rocks that jut
up from the sea, about a dozen miles distant from
the main-land.
Dec. 10th.-Off Cape Breand. In the afternoon
we cast anchor opposite Kororarika beach, in the
Bay of Islands. Nothing can exceed the beauty of
the scenery surrounding this harbour: the view
from the flag-staff was enchanting. The waters of
the bay, indenting the rugged land, formed capes,
promontories, and headlands innumerable; the dis-
tant hills appeared scattered over with cowdie forest;
the blue ocean broke beyond, against the tall, dark
rocks that flank the entrance to this sheltered har-
bour; and around, beneath a bright evening sky,
CHURCH MISSION STATION AT PAHIA. 169
appeared the vivid evergreen foliage, the tree-fern
glens, and here and there a lofty pohukatoa, stretch-
ing out towards the sea its aged limbs, crowned
with masses of crimson bloom. It was a gay, glad
scene.
At this period, Heki had once cut down the flag-
staff, which was re-erected; and beneath the hill
the settlement of Kororarika, or Russell, as it was
sometimes called, smiled in peace and apparent
serenity. Not long afterwards the attack of Heki
took place, which was attended by the total destruc-
tion of the settlement.
But few vessels lay at anchor in the bay; for the
days of its prosperity were already gone. The
Maori pahs on Kororarika beach are ruined and de-
serted, and even the grog shops along shore are
doing but a slender business; owing to the whal-
ing vessels, that formerly resorted to the Bay of
Islands for refreshments, now finding the Navigator's
Group, and many other places, more desirable for
that purpose. On the opposite shores of the bay,
Pahia, "the head-quarters of the Church Mission in
New Zealand, is seen like a little oasis, nestled at
the foot of high fern hills. It appears a lovely spot:
there are about a dozen neat dwellings, almost em-
bowered in green, and surrounded by gardens, in
which the banana and the loquat thrive beneath the
mild climate of this portion of the island. Further
to the right is the dwelling of Mr. Busby, late Go-
vernment resident: this is the prettiest place about
VOL. II.
I
$1
170
HISTORY OF HEKI.
the bay, and is situated near the mouth of the
Waitangi River (Weeping of the Waters), where
there are fine horse-shoe falls.
At Kororarika, no just estimate can be formed of
the native character by a person visiting New Zea-
land. Here he sees it in its worst form: long con-
tact with the lower classes of Europeans, and the
influx of whalers, that constantly resort to the bay,
have rendered the Nga Puis one of the worst and
most troublesome tribes in the island. Pomare, the
principal chief of the Nga Puis, is, unlike the
natives generally, a reckless and drunken charac-
ter; and his pah is the resort of all manner of bad
characters, presenting scenes of low debauch.
John Heki, who has lately rendered himself so con-
spicuous as the leader of the late war against the
British in conjunction with Kowiti, has no claims to
chieftainship excepting his personal tact and courage;
and until the late insurrection but little was known
of him. When a youth of seventeen, he was mission
lad to Archdeacon Williams, at Pahia; and, after
leaving his employ, he achieved several daring ex-
ploits. On one occasion, a woman belonging to his
tribe having been ill-used by another chief, Heki
deliberately walked after and tomahawked him, bring-
ing back the offender's head in his hand. Even-
tually, Heki became E Hongi's fighting man, and,
during E Hongi's decline, conducted his fighting
expeditions. Having married E Hongi's daughter,
Heki succeeded to that chief's pah; and has ever
PASSION OF REVENGE.
171
since been regarded by his people as a leader of
daring courage and skill.
The following anecdote, showing the insanity of
the passion for retributive vengeance that actuates
the feelings of the New Zealander on certain oc-
casions, may be interesting in connection with the
family of the celebrated Heki :-The wife of E
Hongi had a little slave-girl to attend upon her,
towards whom she evinced a strong attachment ;
the little creature was interesting and good-tem-
pered, and her mistress was apparently so fond
of her, that she was spared the experience of
the misery of slavery: she was only a favourite.
Hongi returned from one of his successful expedi-
tions of war, but had left a son upon the field of
battle, and the lamentation was great. The petted
slave child laid her head upon the lap of her mis-
tress, and poured out her share of the general sorrow.
But the spirit of vengeance-of insane retribution—
came over the heart of the bereaved mother; and she
carried the child to the water, and cruelly suffocated
her in satisfaction of her selfish sorrow. Hongi
afterwards went to war again, and his wife accom-
panied him, but after travelling three or four days,
the poor creature was disabled by sickness from pro-
ceeding; when, according to native custom, she was
abandoned to the protection of a patuka, or little
shed built upon poles: food being left on the chance
of her recovery. It is supposed that the wind blew
down the frail structure, and that she perished. On
I 2
172
LETTER FROM A FRIENDLY CHIEF.
the return of her husband, he found that native
dogs had stripped the bones of his wife, which
he found whitened upon the spot: and thus the
punishment of a second Jezebel fell upon her.
However we may judge that these practices have
quenched a genuine humanity in the heart of the
native, there is yet a noble nature for benevolence,
humanity, and forbearance, to appeal to,-and are
we not all erring creatures alike?
That very many of the chiefs were opposed to
Heki is evident from the public expression of their
feelings by several of them, in addressing letters to
Captain Fitzroy, the then Governor of New Zealand;
and it is probable that, had it not been for their
opposition, Heki would at once have marched to the
capital at Auckland, and would perhaps have demo-
lished it before a sufficient force could be obtained
for its protection. The following letter from Paikea,
one of the chiefs of the Nga ti Whatua tribe, to the
Governor at Auckland, is expressive of much friendly
feeling :-
Kaipara, March 21, 1845.
Friend the Governor,-Saluting you; great is my regard for you.
This is my sentiment to you. I return hence, and shall not come to
see you (now) on account of letters which have reached Auckland
about Heki. His message has also reached us, to ascertain whether
he and his evil may come this way. There are some secret designs
for his wishing to come by the Waiora; but should he make this the
path of war (let him remember), I have not had satisfaction for my
dead, slain by him. Should he urge his way hither, I shall rise
against him, to fight with John Heki. This is the reason why I said
he should not come this way. You must think of me; I have no
JESUIT MISSION.
173
confidence in him (Heki); therefore I said, let him go by the Bay of
Islands, the path of evil; but should he come this way, I shall cer-
tainly rise. Do not consider that my sentiments are like those of
John Heki. No! my sentiments are like those of my own people,
Ngatiwhatua, and are with you, O Governor! Te Tawa, Te Ara, and
Ngatipaoa. My considerations are these: these are to be your
parents, to protect you. This is all-the ending of these sentiments.
Friend the Governor,—I wish you to give me a flag, as a badge or
sign let it be a Jack. If you answer this, write and let me know
your mind. Do it quickly. This is all. Would it not be well for
you to have this printed in the newspapers?-From me,
Your affectionate friend,
PAIKEA.
Kororarika is the head-quarters of the Jesuit
mission. A conspicuous, ill-planned building which
stands on the rise of a hill behind the flat occupied
by the town, is the Catholic chapel of the Bishop
Pompalier. Although the zealous Jesuits even pay
their followers for attending upon their services, yet,
with few exceptions, the Maories are not so easily
to be gained over in religious matters, and they
readily detect the mummery of the pikopos.
Until the customs duties were levied here, numbers
of American whalers put into the bay for water and
refreshments, and in return for the pigs and potatoes
supplied them by the natives, they gave muskets and
tobacco; hence the Nga Puis long possessed more
fire-arms than any other of the New Zealand tribes.
An old wreck, once converted into a floating grog-
shop, now lies reversed upon the shore at high-water
mark.
On the evening of the 12th, we weighed anchor,
174
LORD HOWE'S ISLANDS.
and set sail for New South Wales. At the north
entrance to the bay, the spot was pointed out where
the first missionaries to New Zealand landed twenty-
five years ago: here they had to fortify themselves
upon the summit of a small hill, to protect their
property, and even at times their lives, from the
savage inhabitants.
Dec. 25th.-Another Christmas-day at sea. Early
this morning, Lord Howe's Islands were in sight,
with the Pyramid Rock, bearing north-west, about
twenty miles distant from us; these islands are very
high, and the Pyramid exceedingly precipitous. A
Captain Poole and his family reside on the largest of
the two islands; they possess a store of general
articles and an excellent garden, with the produce of
which, whalers touching there are supplied, giving
oil in return. The climate of these islands is
delicious, being said to resemble Madeira. A comet
was visible this evening, bearing south-west by west.
Dec. 28th.-For three preceding days, we have had
hot winds from the north. The sirrocco continued
until sunset, when the sky assumed a strange and
lurid aspect; smoky-looking clouds rose rapidly from
the southward, and a dirty scud came flying very
quickly from the south and west. The sun went
down in a heavy bank, flashing dull rose-coloured
rays from the blue and leaden mass that obscured
the western horizon. Then there was a lull; the
foaming crests of the northern waves gradually sank
into repose, and a dead and breathless calm followed.
HURRICANE AT SEA.
175
The gray hour of twilight was rendered far more
gloomy by the sky all round to the south and west
becoming intensely black; the clouds rising like a
wall, slowly and gradually, until they reached our
vessel, now becalmed on the sullen bosom of the
ocean, enveloped us in an almost Egyptian darkness.
The awful stillness and gloom, portending a tempest,
was rendered more fearful by the sudden oppressive
heat that came over us, like the breath of an oven.
The sails that flapped in the calm were quickly
stowed, and the men, just discernible as black masses
in the rigging, were busily engaged in preparing the
vessel for conflict with the approaching storm.
It
After waiting for about ten minutes in breathless
anxiety, the fury of the tempest burst upon us.
came sudden as thought, rushing up from the south,
black and awful, with a noise like the blast of a
trumpet; and, laying the vessel over on her side, the
wind whistled through the cordage till every mast
shook, and every strong rope trembled. The violence
of the wind on the water, meeting the northerly
swell, sent the foam drifting along like sand; and
the dead silence of the preceding moment was fol-
lowed by a loud and deafening noise, that grew more
terrible as the tempest waxed stronger. The sudden
rushing of the storm-the sweeping foam-the roar-
ing of the wind, howling and moaning through the
rigging-the broad flashes of lightning that lit the
gloom, followed by hoarse peals of thunder, audible
even above the voice of the elements, and the big
·
176
BRICKFIELDERS."
drops of rain-the tears of the tempest,―all com-
bined to render the scene truly grand and terrific.
These hurricanes, which occur periodically on this
part of the New South Wales coast, are termed
"Brickfielders,” and are occasioned by the air being
greatly heated by the northerly winds that blow from
the tropic, rising and causing a vacuum, into which
the cold south wind then rushes in with great vio-
lence. The fury of the storm generally abates after
the first two hours; and it seldom lasts more than
six or eight.
The vessel was "hove-to" until four o'clock the
next morning, when she was put under short sail,
the wind having greatly moderated, though the sea
continued to run mountains high. Awful-sublime
as is a tempest, it inspires one with a wild and fearful
joy: the terrible majesty of the combined rage of
the elements is apparently augmented by the excite-
ment and sense of danger. How insignificant man
appears in such a scene! Even the ocean-cradled
albatross, whose home is on the lone mid sea, on
that night buffeted in vain with the strife of the
waters; and the blue Sabbath dawn, as it awoke,
saw the white pinions of the noble bird floating
lifelessly on the subsiding waves. At 10 P.M. the
tempest was at its height; the seas, gemmed with
pale fires, rolled up from the south in mountains
of foam. Most happily, not a sea struck us, and
our little vessel rode out the storm nobly. One
breach of such a sea would have buried us in foam.
ARRIVAL AT SYDNEY.
177
Lightning flashed all round the horizon; and about
9 P.M. a large and very brilliant meteor passed
swiftly along the sky from the westward, leaving a
train of sparks surrounded by a black nimbus like a
wreath of curling smoke. We saw it burst, falling
into a shower of blazing stars. The comet was also
visible at intervals during the storm.
Sunday, Dec. 29th.-A bright and lovely morning,
-fit emblem of the day of rest. There was a heavy
swell, with drifts of scum-like matter on the edge of
the waves, that told of last night's tumult. With
the exception of loss of bulwarks, and having our
decks swept by the sea, no injury was sustained by
the vessel. "Land a-head!" was the cry at 4 P.M.;
and from the "cross-trees" the coast of New South
Wales was visible, a long line of pale blue, just
indenting the western horizon,—a welcome sight to
all on board. By sunset it had become very distinct;
and before 10, Sydney light was descried-to our
infinite joy.
Dec. 30th.-We cast anchor in Sydney cove; and
on landing, found that the storm of the 28th was the
leading topic of conversation. The meteor that we
had observed was also seen in Sydney, where it had
caused great astonishment, from its unusual size and
brilliancy.
On the afternoon of New Year's Day, I embarked
on board the Emma brig for Adelaide. As my stay
in Sydney on this occasion was limited to a couple
of days, I shall reserve my remarks on New South
I 5
178 NARROW ESCAPE OFF FLINDERS' ISLAND.
Wales for a future chapter: the result of a more
lengthened visit to that country at a subsequent
period.
After encountering violent weather from the west-
ward for eight days, we beat under the lee of Kent's
group in Bass's Straits; and, the gale increasing, we
ran for Great or Flinders' Island, to seek anchorage
on its leeward shore. The "Sisters," lying off the
northern extremity of Flinders's Island, are two
rocky isles, very similar in appearance, scattered with
scrub and casuarina trees; and between the islands
is a passage about two miles across, which is very
dangerous, being full of sunken reefs. We ran till
we were fairly under the lee of Flinders' Island. A
singularly broken ridge of land, presenting peaks
and mountains of the most picturesque forms,
stretches through the island; and a low sandy shore
faces the eastward, off which we sought shelter.
The lead-line was heaved rapidly, yet we narrowly
escaped being cast away upon a sand-bank about
two miles from the shore, which was not laid down
in the chart: the man heaving the lead cried "seven-
teen;" at the next heave, "and a half ten;" then,
suddenly, the cry of "and a half four !" startled the
seamen's ears in another ship's length the sandy
bottom was seen, and just beyond the surf broke
upon a sand-bank! The vessel was put about with
all possible speed, and she just shaved the edge of
the sand-bank; we stood out to sea again, and rode
out the gale under very short canvass. To the east-
NATIVES OF VAN DIEMEN'S LAND.
179
ward of Flinders' Island is a small rock called Babel
Island, so named by Flinders, from the confused
cries of innumerable multitudes of sea-fowl, of
various species, that rose in myriads upon being
disturbed.
Next day we came to an anchor about two miles
from the shore, the wind having moderated consider-
ably. Here the "Sisters" bore south-west, distant
one mile; and the "Patriarchs,"-three high moun-
tain peaks or hummocks in the interior of Flinders'
Island,—were visible beyond the low land of the
coast.
Upon this island dwell the miserable relics of
the aboriginal inhabitants of Van Diemen's Land,
amounting to about a dozen or twenty families: here
they were banished by the Government, to prevent
their interfering with the settlers. Although they
are daily supplied with rations, and have the range
of the island entirely to themselves, their numbers
are fast decreasing; and in all probability, ere long,
the former natives of Tasmania will be an extinct
and a forgotten race.
Whilst the vessel lay at anchor, we landed upon
the island, in a little sandy cove, sheltered by masses
of red granite rock; the only spot we could discover
which was free from the violent surf that dashed
against the shore, and broke over the rocky promon-
tory to our right. Whilst Captain Fox and the
doctor ascended the hills through thick bushy scrub,
making enormous bonfires by lighting the dry bushes,
180
DANGEROUS SHORE.
I amused myself by gathering shells along the sea-
shore our boat's crew commenced setting the scrub
on fire to the southward, and presently we saw our
fires answered by a dense column of smoke rising
inland about six miles distant. Remains of native
encampments were scattered along the shore, and
some bore the appearance of having been very re-
cently occupied by the blacks. We put up a wallaby
or two, which were the only quadrupeds we observed
upon the island: there were black swans upon
a lagoon that ran parallel to the shore for about a
mile and a half, and large flocks of redbills and shags
were sitting on the rocks. The herbage here par-
takes of the same character as most of the Australian
islands; the she-oak or casuarina being most abun-
dant upon the hills. The lagoon before mentioned,
which from the cross-trees of the vessel appeared
like a harbour, had a sea-mouth perhaps eighty or
one hundred feet in breadth, out of which the tide was
setting at the rate of eight knots an hour, and meet-
ing the surf-rollers, caused a tumultuous sea at the
entrance, resembling the sea-mouth of the Murray,
but on a smaller scale. Enormous limpets (patella)
covered the granite rocks above low water.
By the time our party had re-assembled to launch
the whale-boat for our return to the brig, we found
the tide had receded so far from the cove, that the
passage through which we had entered, and the only
spot free from the surf-rollers, was now white with
breakers like the rest of the shore. Seizing the
PORTLAND BAY.
181
moment of time between the rollers, we turned the
boat's head to it, and dashing through, got beyond
the surf before the next rollers set in. During the
night the wind shifted to the eastward, and we again
set sail with a fair wind; the surge breaking as we
rolled along, with that crisp, hollow sound that
whispers we are nearing the desired haven.
From the 14th to the 20th of January, we had
to bear up against a violent gale, " dead on end,”
the wind veering from W.N.W. to W.S.W., with a
tremendous sea running. On the 21st, the wind
chopped round to the opposite quarter; the same
night we sighted Kangaroo Island, and next morn-
ing at daybreak we saw the red sun come up from
behind Mount Lofty and gild the placid waters of
St. Vincent's gulf.
In the month of July following, I again left Ade-
laide for Sydney, in the Vanguard, visiting Portland
Bay and calling at Port Philip heads on the way
thither.
The approach to Portland Bay, after rounding
Cape Northumberland, is past the Lawrence Islands,
entering the bay between them and Lady Julia
Percy's Isle. The former of these islands consists
of a group of rocks, which are covered with guano,
and are the resort of innumerable gannets; the latter
is a low flat island, on which several vessels have
been lost in thick weather. We landed in the surf;
which perpetually rolls into Portland Bay, from the
swell of the Southern Ocean, to which it is exposed.
182
TOWN OF PORTLAND.
Several whalers lay at anchor in the bay; and smoke
from the fires over which they were "trying out"
the oil, rose from the vessels.
The same white coral limestone which occurs at
Mount Gambier also appears here; and the country
bears similar marks of having been raised by volcanic
action from beneath the ocean. The aspect of the
land greatly resembles that about Cape Northum-
berland; and it is evident that the same belt of
country extends in this direction. Immediately in
the vicinity of the bay is a thickly wooded district,
consisting of stunted eucalyptus, blackwood, and the
mimosa wattle, with the cherry (exocarpus) and a
little underwood. The soil is rich; and at this
season of the year (mid-winter) the country looked
very green, and the ground was wet and swampy.
About fifteen miles distant, towards Cape Bridge-
water, there are several lakes, and some caverns
similar to those near Mount Gambier. All the
intervening country is a succession of swamps and
wooded plains.
The town of Portland is a neat place, built on a
slightly rising ground from the water's edge. The
population does not at present much exceed five
hundred persons; but as it is the only port to a
large district, everything is pretty brisk as regards
trade.
The Messrs. Henty are the principal stockholders
here; and the settlement of Portland Bay has grown
up as it were around their establishments. Sub-
PORT FAIRY TRIBE.
183
stantial stone houses are in the course of erection,
and several new stores are being built in the town.
A jetty is also nearly completed, for the facility of
landing.
The natives of this district are in a miserable state;
they are still numerous, and their miam miams, or
huts, that resemble bee-hives, are clustered on the
green sward beneath the gum trees. A party of
the Port Fairy tribe, who had built their huts
amongst the woods in the neighbourhood of the
settlement, happened to be at the bay during the
period of my visit, and more attenuated or wretched-
looking beings I never witnessed. It appeared unac-
countable, that a race of people living a primitive
life, amidst the aromatic fragrance of these woods,
with their dwellings upon the green and flower-
spangled turf-breathing the pure transparent air
of this part of Australia, and enjoying one of the
finest possible climates-should be so low in the
scale of humanity as are these degraded creatures,
when all around is fair and beautiful. I made
several sketches of these people-miserable beings
whose filth was beyond description. At one of their
miam miams, or huts, was a man who called himself
"Mr. Cold Morning," with a numerous family of
dirty, naked, little "Cold Mornings" about him;
one man was lying on the wet ground, stretched
upon his kangaroo skin, dying of pulmonary con-
sumption; another poor wretch was suffering from
a broken leg; and many more were almost devoured

184
SHOCKING SPECTACLE.
by disease. But the most extraordinary and revolt-
ing spectacle was the group that I have sketched
below, in order to give an idea of the physical ap-
pearance of these people. It was an old woman,
reduced to a mere skeleton, with an idiotic child-
apparently four or five years old, but unable to stand
erect-to which she was attempting to supply nourish-
ment from her shrivelled and flaccid breast. Both
JACKSON.Sc.
were utterly destitute of clothing; and the spectre-
like form of the aged hag, as she sat in the ashes
before the hut, was loathsome: one of my companions
actually turned sick and vomited at the sight. On
my examining the child, the old woman took it up
in her bony grasp, and holding it out at arm's length,
uttered a wild hysterical laugh that rang through the
still woods; and then stretched out her hand for a
morsel of tobacco.
The climate of Portland is cooler than that of
South Australia: the thermometer, even on the
MELBOURNE, PORT PHILIP.
185
hottest days, seldom rises to 90° in the shade; and
the abundance of rain that falls during the year,
causes the verdure to look remarkably fresh and
green.
Leaving Portland Bay, a run of two days brought
us to Port Philip heads; and at the mouth of this
vast harbour we encountered a strong tide running
out, and a violent cross sea. We entered the har-
bour of Port Philip to land some passengers, and
cast anchor inside the lighthouse; which is a neat
stone building on the westernmost cliff, marking the
entrance to the harbour. The town of Melbourne
is situated at the further extremity of this extensive
sheet of water, on the banks of the Yarra, and
about forty miles from the sea entrance. The view
from the heads towards the direction of Melbourne
commands the distant prospect of Mount Macedon,
with Mount Martha and Arthur's Seat to the right.
After encountering strong northerly winds for ten
days, we reached Sydney on the 21st July.
CHAPTER VI.
SYDNEY AND ITS ENVIRONS.
LEAVING the rude and boisterous ocean, and enter-
ing the calm and fairy-like expanse of Sydney har-
bour, a sudden change of scene is presented to the
voyager. The entrance to the harbour is between
two perpendicular cliffs, called the North and South
Head, and it appears as though the continuous wall
of limestone rock that forms this iron-girt coast had
been abruptly rent asunder, to open an entrance to
one of the finest harbours in the world. These cliffs
vary in height from one to four hundred feet, and
they descend abruptly to the ocean, that foams
and lashes in fury at their base; the waves rushing
into the hollow caverns beneath with a sound like
thunder.
On the summit of the southern cliff, or "head," as
it is termed, stands a magnificent lighthouse, entirely
built of the Sydney stone, which throws its friendly
SYDNEY FROM THE HARBOUR.
187
ray far and wide over the bosom of the vast Pacific.
Near to it are the flag-staff and signal-station;
the latter communicates with the one at the fort
in Sydney, by which means every vessel enter-
ing, or even passing the heads, is immediately signa-
lized in the city. It is said that this entrance, be-
tween the long coast-line of precipitous rocks, was
discovered by a fore-top-man named Jackson, who
was on the look-out with Captain Cook's expedition;
and the harbour thus found was called, in conse-
quence, Port Jackson: this appellation it still re-
tains, though the general name of Sydney is more
commonly used at the present time.
Inconceivably beautiful is the first sight of Sydney
harbour. After entering the heads, and passing the
small group of rocks called "The Sow and Pigs,"
the harbour appears completely land-locked, and in
every direction the eye rests upon sloping grounds,
scattered with trees and shrubs to the water's edge.
The shores are indented by numerous charming little
bays, where the transparent blue waters murmur
gently upon a smooth beach of sand of the most.
dazzling whiteness; and these are relieved by clus-
ters of deep rich foliage, with bold and rocky emi-
nences jutting abruptly out from some miniature
promontory. Houses, villas, and picturesque cot-
tages are scattered about, in the most pleasing man-
ner, around the varied shores of these enchanting
little bays, peeping out of shrubberies, or from
amongst gardens and cultivation. Many of these
188
SYDNEY FROM THE HARBOUR.
houses are tastefully built; the Gothic and Elizabethan
styles being mostly adopted. After passing Wat-
son's Bay and Camp Cove, where the pilots and
water-police are stationed, the eye of the stranger
is successively attracted by "Vaucluse," once the
abode of Sir Henry Hay; the beautifully situated
mansion of Point Piper, with its smooth lawn, gar-
dens, and lemon grounds; the ornamental villa resi-
dences of Elizabeth Bay, amongst which those of
Mr. M'Leay and Sir Thomas Mitchell are the most
prominent; and lastly, the new Government House,
a splendid gothic edifice, situated on a projecting
slope. Beyond, extends Sydney Cove, with the city
rising terrace-like from the water, and surmounting
the surrounding hills with its wealth of daily increas-
ing stone buildings. The numerous rocky islands
studding the surface of the harbour are richly clothed
with evergreen foliage, and add greatly to the beauty
of the scene. On rounding the fort, off Govern-
ment House, a busy and animated sight suddenly
opens to view. Ships of all sizes, and many nations,
crowd the cove, and the quays are lined with mer-
chantmen, receiving the varied produce of New
South Wales. The coup d'œil is enlivening and
striking: the city of Sydney, built almost entirely
of the beautiful white stone that forms its founda-
tion, presents a gay and imposing appearance, when
seen beneath the pure bright sunshine of an un-
clouded sky. At one glance the eye takes in most
of the principal structures. The churches, forts,
ELEGANCE AND WEALTH OF SYDNEY. 189
hospitals, and barracks are all works of great labour
and magnitude, and excite the astonishment of the
stranger on beholding so vast and wealthy a city at
the antipodes. Fifty years ago the site of Sydney
was a barren rock, that boasted only a few huts and
a handful of criminals, living in continual terror
from the marauding bands of savages who were the
then possessors of the soil. Whatever may be the
defects of the convict system, it has done all this.
The criminals of Great Britain have built a city that
has risen to be the metropolis of the south. On
landing, the stranger is still more astonished at the
wonderful progress of the place: proceeding along
handsome streets, lighted with gas, having elegant
houses, well-paved foot-paths, and shops equalling
those of many of our first towns in England; and
seeing the highways traversed by coaches, cabs, and
equipages of various kinds, and thronged with gaily
dressed pedestrians, and an air of bustle and business
pervading the whole city, he forgets that he is in
Australia, and imagines for the moment that he is sud-
denly transported to the mother country.
The city of Sydney is supplied with water conveyed
from Botany Bay, a distance of seven miles. The
streets are kept beautifully clean by the prisoners,
and the utmost order and regularity pervades the
place. Indeed, if it were not for occasionally meet-
ing a chain-gang of prisoners at work on the public
quays, or proceeding homewards to the barracks in
the evening, one would totally forget that he were in
+
190
DELIGHTFUL GARDENS.
a penal settlement. The efficient system of police kept
up in Sydney, renders it in appearance one of the most
quiet and orderly cities in the world. There is a
large open space, covered with grass and fenced in,
called Hyde Park, at the southern end of which
some elegant terraces are built. The neighbourhood
of Wooloomooloo and Rushcutter's Bay is very
pretty, being dotted with villas and cottages situ-
ated in blooming gardens laid out with consider-
able taste. But the Government gardens and domain
are the most usual resort for the inhabitants; and
they are well worthy of a visit: delightfully situated
on the banks of a deep bay, the grounds and flower-
gardens are alike enriched by the united beauties of
nature and art. Nothing can be more delicious,
during one of the hot days of summer, than to seek
the deep shade in the sylvan recesses of these gar-
dens, and occupy one of the numerous rustic seats
that are placed about, beneath the evergreen foliage.
The botanical specimens are very numerous, and
have been brought from all parts of the world. Here
the banana and the fan palm may be seen luxuriantly
flourishing in the open air. But the most valued
plants are the English primrose, the cowslip, violet,
and daisy, which are shaded from the sun by screens,
and treasured as carefully as the most tender exotics
would be in England. These simple and homely
memorials of our native land touch the heart with
their eloquent silence, and the sternest soul is not
insensible to their mute appeal. I remember to have
ENGLISH WILD FLOWERS.
191
seen an individual in tears at the unexpected sight
of an English primrose, which awakened the memory
of home. In a secluded part of these gardens is a
damp and shady place overhung by weeping wil-
lows, and beneath their shade is erected a simple
obelisk of white marble, bearing the following inscrip-
tion :
"TO ALLAN CUNNINGHAM, THE BOTANIST."
Amongst the various beautiful trees and flowering
shrubs that ornament the Government domain, the
Norfolk Island pine is the most striking and remark-
able. It towers up to a great height, throwing out
lateral branches, at regular intervals, of a dark and
cypress-like character. It is a native of Norfolk
Island, whence it derives its name, but it is now
extensively planted about Sydney. The weeping
willow, although generally considered to flourish best
in damp situations and on the banks of rivers, here
attains, even in the dryest situation, a size and luxu-
riance of foliage almost unequalled. These trees, as
also the oaks, apples, and others of European intro-
duction, shed their leaves during the winter; that is,
the leaves fall about May, and in September the
young buds again burst forth. All the indigenous
trees are evergreen.
The domain is pleasantly situated near the Govern-
ment gardens, and affords a delightful and fashion-
able pleasure-ground for the inhabitants, answering
to our Hyde Park in London; and the many stylish
192
THE GOVERNMENT DOMAIN.
equipages, such as chariots, gigs, and tandems, that
may be seen driving about, together with the nume-
rous equestrians, both male and female, render the
domain a gay scene during the cool of the evening:
especially when enlivened by the band of one of
the regiments. A conspicuous ornament of the
promenade is the statue erected to Governor Burke.
During the summer months, the chirp of the cicada
amongst the mimosa-trees, makes an incessant and
almost deafening noise throughout the domain.
The climate of Sydney, although very fine, is not
equal to that of South Australia. The hot winds
are more felt here than in the latter colony, and less
rain falls in Sydney than in Adelaide. The winter
and spring are delicious; and at the period of my
second visit, the bush and scrub in the neighbour-
hood of Sydney were gay with a profusion of native
flowers of all hues, that perfumed the air with an
aromatic fragrance.
One of the principal articles of export from New
South Wales is wool; and after the shearing season,
bullock-drays may be seen coming into town from
all quarters-some of them from a distance of three
hundred miles-piled up with bales, the produce
of the flocks in the interior. At such seasons,
Sydney is unusually gay: money is plentiful, and
the harbour is full of shipping, waiting to convey
the produce to England. Then, the settler and
the out-squatter, who, perhaps, have lived like
hermits in the bush for six or eight months past,
BOTANY BAY.
193
seeing only their shepherds and their flocks, and
buried, as it were, in the solitude of the interior,
arrive on horseback from their distant stations to
receive the value for their wool; this money is fre-
quently squandered away in a reckless manner, and
when it is all gone, the improvident squatter returns
to his hut in the wilds, to pursue for another year
the same round of monotonous, yet independent
existence.
About seven miles from Sydney, in a south-east
direction, lies the celebrated Botany Bay, where the
first settlement for convicts was established by the
British Government in the month of January 1788.
The bay, as is well known, derived its name from
the number of new and singular plants found there
by Sir Joseph Banks and Dr. Solander, during Cap-
tain Cook's first voyage; and it still merits its dis-
tinctive appellation. This spot is interesting, also,
from the fact of its being the place where the immor-
tal Cook, with his intrepid companions, first set foot
on the shores of Australia, and took possession, for
Britain, of a continent destined to be the birth-
place of a mighty nation. Several friends having,
like myself, resolved to spend a day at "Botany,"
as
the "Currency "* people term it, we started
on horseback, pursuing our way across a sandy
scrub enlivened with a variety of beautiful heaths
and other flowers. On arriving at the margin
* Currency is a term used to designate those born in New South
Wales, who are known as Currency lads and lasses.
VOL. II.
K

194
LA PEROUSE'S MONUMENT.
of the bay, the blue waters of which looked beauti-
fully clear and pellucid, the scene somewhat re-
sembled in its natural features the neighbouring
harbour of Port Jackson, but divested of all its
wealth of civilization, and busy life. Botany Bay is
a lone neglected spot, remaining even now very much
in the same state as it was when the great navigator
first set foot upon its shores; indeed it is comparatively
unknown: thousands are born, live and die in the
colony without ever dreaming of going to see Botany
Bay, and many are actually ignorant of its existence.
After stopping to lunch at a small solitary inn,
prettily situated on the margin of the bay, we
rode on for several miles through the woods to-
wards the heads, to visit the monument erected by
the French to the memory of the unfortunate La
LA PEROUSE'S MONUMENT.
195
Perouse. Our ride was a charming one: a narrow
road winding through woods, teeming with beauty
and perfume, led us over hill and dale, to an open
spot overlooking the wide expanse of the bay, where,
within a small inclosure, stands the column to La
Perouse. The summit is surmounted by a globe,
and the sides bear the following inscription:-
A la Memoire
de
Monsieur de la Perouse
cette terre
qu'il visita en MDCCLXXXVIII.
est la dernière d'où il a fait parvenir
de ses nouvelles.
Erigé au nom de la France
par les soins de MM. Bougainville et Ducampier
commandant la Frégate La Thetis et la Corvette L'Esperance
en relâche au Port Jackson
En MDCCCxxv.
Near this spot is the well dug by Captain Cook,
which is shaded from the sun by the overhanging
branches of dark mimosa bushes. In the face of the
cliff, just inside the entrance to the bay, a copper
plate is let into the rock, in an almost inaccessible
spot, recording the date of the landing of Captain
Cook's expedition; but this, like the well, is unre-
garded. The rocks are covered with geraniums and
wild flowers, and golden masses of blossom of the
fragrant mimosa exhaled a sweet spicy perfume that
rendered the balmy air delicious as we passed along;
whilst brilliant parroquets, and other birds of exqui-
site plumage, sported through the woods. The
K 2
196
FIRST SHIPMENT OF CONVICTS
lycopodium, and a small species of palm, are abun-
dant on the margin of the bay. We returned to
Sydney late in the evening, after a delightful moon-
light ride through the scrub, laden with botanical
specimens from the renowned bay.
Such is Botany Bay at the present time. An
account of the arrival there of the first fleet of
convict ships, and their subsequent removal to Syd-
ney Cove, may be interesting, as contrasting the
present with the past.
"It being determined to send the convicts to New
South Wales, six transports were hired for this pur-
pose by his Majesty's commissioners; these were to
be accompanied by three store-ships. A quantity of
tools and implements of husbandry were put on
board for the new establishment, and also a suffi-
ciency of provisions for two years. The government
of the colony was intrusted to Arthur Phillips, Esq.,
who hoisted his pendant on board the Sirius, a
twenty-gun ship. The number of convicts sent out
was 565 men and 192 women. Distributed amongst
the transports and in the Sirius, was a body of 160
marines with their officers.
"The fleet set sail from the Mother Bank on 13th
May, 1787, with a leading wind through the Needles
passage. The fleet soon reached Teneriffe, where
they took in provisions and water, and at the end of
one week put to sea again. The passage to Rio
Janiero was performed in eight weeks; the convicts
were also in a very healthful state. During their stay
TO BOTANY BAY.
197
in this port, which was about a month, the convicts
and crew were plentifully supplied with fresh meat,
vegetables, and fruits, to enable them to resist the
attacks of the scurvy to which they might be exposed
by the length of the voyage. The fleet crossed over
from one continent to the other in about five weeks,
which was a run of 1,100 leagues.
"After remaining at the Cape of Good Hope for
four weeks, the fleet proceeded to New South Wales,
the place of its final destination, and on the 20th
January, 1788, the whole fleet were safely anchored
in Botany Bay; thus this long voyage was happily
completed in eight months and one week, and only
thirty-two persons had died since their leaving Eng-
land. The Governor, who had gained a little on
the rest of the fleet, employed his time in examining
the bay, but not finding a satisfactory place where
he might form a settlement, he set off, in company
with some of the officers, in three open boats, to
examine the adjacent harbours of Port Jackson and
Broken Bay. The first prospect of Port Jackson
was unpromising, and the natives everywhere greeted
the little fleet with shouts of defiance, and "warra,
warra," "go away, go away," resounded wherever
they appeared.* However, they had the happiness
* "Old Queen Gooseberry," the last of the Broken Bay tribe, tells
us that she remembers her father's account of the arrival of this fleet.
On the approach of the vessels, the natives, who had never seen a ship
before, imagining them to be huge sea-monsters, were so terrified
that they ran into the bush, and did not stop to look back until they
198 SITE OF FIRST CONVICT SETTLEMENT.
to find a harbour capable of affording security for a
very considerable fleet. In one of the coves of this
capacious harbour, the Governor determined to fix
the future seat of Government, it having been found
to possess a sufficiency of water and soil. After three
days, the Governor returned to Botany Bay, and
gave directions for the immediate removal of the fleet
to Port Jackson. Two strange sail that appeared in
the offing, caused much speculation; they proved to
be the two French ships under the command of
M. de la Perouse, then on a voyage of discovery.
Thėse ships entered Botany Bay just at the time the
English vessels were abandoning the harbour, and
their commanders had barely time to exchange civili-
ties. The spot chosen for the settlement was at the
head of the cove, near a run of fresh water, which
stole silently through a very thick wood, the stillness
of which had then, for the first time since the
creation, been interrupted by the sound of the
labourer's axe."
On this very spot now stands the busy city of
Sydney. How little did Cook dream, when, sixty
years since, he first landed on the shores of this vast
and mysterious continent, that in this short space of
time it would become a populous and thriving colony,
rivalling in extent and wealth many kingdoms in
Europe.
Among the most interesting spots within Sydney
reached a place now called Liverpool, distant about twenty miles,
where they hid themselves in trees!
CAMP COVE-VIEW FROM THE SOUTH HEAD, 199
harbour is Camp Cove, one of the many picturesque
little bays that indent the shores of Port Jackson.
The water-police station occupies this cove; and
here, in company with my friend Mr. Miles, who is
well known as an antiquarian and a man of science,
I spent many a pleasant day. We established our
head-quarters at the cottage of the superintendent,
which is almost concealed amidst the luxuriance of
the creeping plants that surround it, and is backed
by high rocks that gradually ascend towards the
south head. We made short boating excursions for
the purposes of sketching the charming bits of scenery
that occur at every turn of the harbour, and enjoying
the beauties of nature around us. Climbing to the
giddy verge of the south head, from a ledge over-
hanging the precipice beneath, we beheld the wide
expanse of the blue Pacific stretched out below and
beyond till the eye was lost in the distance of the dim
horizon. It was a glorious sight: I could have sat
from the rising to the setting sun gazing upon that
broad, boundless ocean, encircling the southern
hemisphere with its mighty waters, on whose vast
bosom the vessels appeared as little specks, glis-
tening white upon the sapphire of the watery plain.
I used to watch the vessels from that giddy height
pass out one by one from between the cliffs that form
a barrier to the ocean, tracing them with the eye till
the weary gaze could follow them no farther, and
speculating on the varied destinies of each little bark.
At other times we would climb over the fallen rocks
200
BEAUTIFUL CORALLINES.
at the base of the cliffs, against which the thundering
surf dashes its waves into snowy foam.
In the deep water below the rocks along this part
of the coast there grows a most beautiful coralline,
varying in colour from the deepest scarlet to a pale
rose tint, with other varieties of a brilliant yellow:
the natives, by diving, brought us up a considerable
quantity of very fine specimens.
It is a wild and picturesque sight to watch a party
of natives spearing fish by torch-light, in the sheltered
bays around Camp Cove, and in Camp Cove itself.
They wade into the water until about knee deep,
each man brandishing a flaming torch, made of in-
flammable bark; this attracts the fish, and with their
four-pronged spears they strike them with wonderful
dexterity. The glare of the lights upon the gently
undulating surface of the water, and the dark figures
moving rapidly about, in strong contrast with the
torch-light, produce a lively and romantic effect.
Across the harbour is Spring Cove, where vessels
lie that are under quarantine; and not far from the
shore is the quarantine burial-ground, the approach
to which is from a small well-sheltered bay just
within the north head. The surrounding scenery is
enchanting; hills environ the burial-ground, and
upon their declivities are erected the hospitals, while
in the hollow is a beautiful dell, with a narrow and
moss-grown path leading into it, following which you
reach the burial-place midway. I came upon it un-
expectedly in a joyous and merry mood, but instantly

Pubby Smith Elder & C London
George French Angas, del.
THE QUARANTINE BURIAL GROUND
Day& Hoghe Lith" to the Queen
QUARANTINE BURIAL GROUND.
201
felt the influence of the scene. The tombstones of
spectral whiteness contrasting with the dark foliage—
the gurgling of the stream through the dell, and the
occasional note of the whip-bird breaking the spell of
silence-the old gum tree stretching its leafless arms
over those decaying beneath the soil it once had
shadowed-the mellowed light of evening upon the
distant land (telling of a day for ever lost)—the
tranquil solitude-all combined to give an air of
solemn sadness to the scene. I have seen no spot
where the dead repose which is more melancholy
or more exquisitely picturesque than this lonely
burial-place in the wilderness, where the howling of
the storm, and the muffled beat of the surge sound a
requiem to the dead-those hapless dead, who voyaged
so many thousand miles, hopeful and expectant, and
perished at the very entrance of the looked-for har-
bour, there to lie
Unknelled, uncoffined, and unknown.
The most important result of our rambles around
the bays and rocky promontories of Port Jackson,
was the discovery of a new and remarkable feature
connected with the history of the natives formerly
inhabiting this portion of New South Wales. I refer
to their carvings in outline, cut into the surface of
flat rocks in the neighbourhood, and especially on
the summits of the various promontories about the
harbours of the coast. Although these carvings exist
in considerable numbers, covering all the flat rocks
K 5
202
66 QUEEN GOOSEBERRY PROPITIATED.
99
upon many of the headlands overlooking the water, it
is a singular fact that up to the present time they
appear to have remained unobserved, and it was not
until my friend Mr. Miles first noticed the rude
figure of a kangaroo cut upon the surface of a flat
rock near Camp Cove, that we were led to make a
careful search for these singular and interesting
remains of a people who are now nearly extinct.
About a dozen natives of the Sydney and Broken Bay
tribes were encamped amongst the bushes on the mar-
gin of a small fresh-water lake close to Camp Cove, and
from amongst them we selected "Old Queen Goose-
berry" (as she is generally styled by the colonists) to be
our guide, promising her a reward of flour and tobacco
if she would tell us what she knew about these carvings,
and conduct us to all the rocks and headlands in the
neighbourhood where like figures existed. At first
the old woman objected, saying that such places were
all koradjee ground, or "priests' ground," and that
she must not visit them; but at length, becoming
more communicative, she told us all she knew and
all that she had heard her father say respecting them.
She likewise consented at last to guide us to several
spots near the North head, where she said the carv-
ings existed in great numbers; as also impressions of
hands upon the sides of high rocks. With some
difficulty we prevailed upon the haggard old creature
to venture with us into a whale-boat; so, with Queen
Gooseberry for our guide, we crossed to the North
head. After examining the flat rocks in every direc-
ABORIGINAL SCULPTURE IN OUTLINE.
203
tion, we found sufficient examples of these singular
outlines to confirm at once the opinion that they
were executed by the aboriginal inhabitants; but at
what period, is quite uncertain. From the half-
obliterated state of many of them (although the lines
are cut nearly an inch deep into the hard rock), and
the fact that from several of them we were compelled
to clear away soil and shrubs of long continued
growth, it is evident that they have been executed a
very long time. At first we could not bring ourselves
to believe that these carvings were the work of
savages; and we conjectured that the figure of the
kangaroo might have been the work of some Euro-
pean; but when, pursuing our researches further, we
found all the most out-of the-way and least accessible
headlands adorned with similar carvings, and also
that the whole of the subjects represented indigenous
objects - such as kangaroos, opossums, sharks, the
hieleman or shield, the bomerang, and, above all, the
human figure in the attitudes of the corobbory dances-
we could come to no other conclusion than that they
were of native origin. Europeans would have drawn
ships, and horses, and men with hats upon their
heads, had they attempted such a laborious and
tedious occupation. Some of the figures of fish
*
* An old writer on New South Wales, about the year 1803, re-
marks, when referring to the natives, "They have some taste for
sculpture, most of their instruments being carved with rude work,
effected with pieces of brokeu shell; and on the rocks are frequently
to be seen various figures of fish, clubs, swords, animals, &c., not
contemptibly represented."
204
ABORIGINAL SCULPTURES.
measured twenty-five feet in length; and it is curious
that the representations of the shield exactly corre-
spond with that used by the natives of Port Stephens
at the present day. These sculptured forms prove
that the New Hollanders exercised the arts of
design: which has been questioned; and they also
serve to corroborate Captain Grey's discoveries of
native delineations in caves upon the north-west coast
of Australia, during his expedition of discovery.*
At Lane Cove, at Port Aiken, and at Point Piper, we
also met with similar carvings. Whilst on a visit at
the latter place, it occurred to me that on the flat rocks
at the extremity of the grounds belonging to the estate
where I was staying, there might be carvings similar
to those at the Heads; and on searching carefully, I
found considerable numbers of them in a tolerably
perfect state of preservation. Of all these I took
measurements, and made careful fac-simile drawings
on the spot. These may be regarded as examples
of the general character of all the sculptured out-
lines.
Amongst the many rambles in the neighbourhood,
I was particularly fond of the north shore, to which
one of the numerous little steam-boats that enliven
the harbour plies every quarter of an hour. Leaving
the bustle of Sydney, one is soon transported to the
secluded and picturesque scenery on the opposite
shore, where the pathways leading through the bush
* See Appendix, Note 2. + See Appendix, Note 1.
MR. MARTENS' COTTAGE AND CHURCH. 205
are gemmed with wild flowers, and the hills
may be
said to resemble, at this time of the year (the spring),
one vast flower-garden. I never visited the north
shore but I returned with some new addition to my
collection of plants, so numerous are the species
that spring from amongst the rocks and the sandy
soil around Port Jackson.
In a spot embowered by the shade of a grove of
eucalyptus, and overlooking one of the most lovely
prospects in New South Wales, my friend Martens,
who was draughtsman to the expedition of the Beagle,
has chosen to locate himself and his family, and has
built a snug picturesque cottage in keeping with the
charming seclusion selected for its site. Below the
garden is a deep dell, through which runs a gurgling
stream, almost choked with the luxuriance of the
flowers that surround it; amongst which the gay
warrator rears its crimson-blossomed head, like a
huge peony. Here and there the decaying and
whitened branches of some aged gum-tree stretch
their leafless arms against the blue sky, whilst the
distant scene embraces the windings of the harbour,
backed by the far off range of the Blue Mountains.
Not far from his pretty cottage, Mr. Martens has,
by his own labour, erected a little church, the chaste
design of which is entirely his own.
The great
interest he took in its completion may be inferred
from the fact that, when I last saw him, he was at
work sculpturing the font out of a block of white
Sydney stone with his own hands.
206
"LITTLE JACKY," THE ORANGE BOY.
From the numerous whalers and other vessels
trading from Sydney, that visit the various groups of
islands in the Pacific Ocean, it occasionally happens
that some of the natives of these islands visit Sydney.
The traders are glad to bring over one or two of the
young people from some of the more barbarous
islands, whither they trade for sandal-wood, in
order to show them the wealth and power of a civi-
lized nation, and by making them presents and treat-
ing them well, to ensure their aid and friendship on
their return.
One of the most amusing and best-known cha-
racters in Sydney is "Little Jacky," the orange-
merchant—a lad about twelve years of age, and a
native of Lee-foo, near New Caledonia. His real
name is Duono, and he was brought home by a
vessel trading thither for sandal-wood. He had been
two years in Sydney, spoke English perfectly, and
made a good livelihood by selling oranges, every
body preferring to buy of this witty little urchin.
His remarks are so droll and full of point, that I have
frequently seen him set a whole company in a roar of
laughter.
I also met with a boy of Khuria, one of the Kingsmill
group of islands near the line, whose history is remark-
able. On the 18th May 1843, the brig Clarence of Syd-
ney, on a whaling voyage, fell in with a canoe at sea
containing twelve men, eleven women, seven boys,
and two girls, all in a state of nudity. On coming
alongside they stove in their canoe, and were taken
THE PARRAMATTA RIVER.
207
on board in a very exhausted state, having been at sea
twenty-two days, four of which they were without food
or water. On the 20th, the captain, Joseph White,
landed the whole of the natives on one of the islands,
excepting one young man, whom he named William
Clarence, and the boy referred to, who is called
Joseph White. This boy was taken great notice of
by one of the crew, who taught him his prayers,
and actually took the trouble to cut out of sperm
whalebone the alphabet, which he learned and
could arrange in a correct manner. He is now in
Sydney, adopted by a gentleman in the Audit
Office, who is giving him an education. He is sup-
posed to be ten years of age, can read and write
uncommonly well, considering the time he has been
at school, and lately obtained a prize at a public exa-
mination.
About ten or a dozen miles from Sydney is the
town of Parramatta, situated on the river of the
same name. Steam-boats ply daily between the two
places, affording a pleasant excursion up the broad
and picturesque creek known as Parramatta River;
which is, in reality, one of the numerous branches
of Sydney harbour, having a small stream falling
into it higher up. Not far from Sydney is Cockatoo
Island, the place of banishment for the more refrac-
tory prisoners, or those who have been recommitted
since their transportation. This small island is en-
tirely occupied as a prison, and every approach to it
208
THE PARRAMATTA RIVER.
•
is guarded, day and night, by sentinels: no boat is
allowed to come within a certain distance of its
shores. As the gay steamers pass and repass, with
bands of music on board, and thronged with merry
faces, it is melancholy to see the vacant, abject,
hopeless gaze with which the prisoners of Cockatoo
Island stare at them; the sight of liberty making
them ten times more weary of their bondage. Pass-
ing Five-dock Farm, where the races are held every
spring, Bedlam appears in view at a turn of the
river; a large building, beautifully situated, for the
reception of the lunatics of New South Wales. Far-
ther up the river, the scenery becomes more open
and pleasing orange gardens and peach orchards
diversify the banks; the former revealing their wealth
of golden fruit from amongst the deep foliage of the
trees, and the latter clothed with a spring mantle of
pink blossom.
At Ermington the river again widens, and from
thence a fine view of the distant scenery is ob-
tained, backed by the noble ridge of the Blue
Mountains. The foreground is diversified by Austra-
lian plants and trees; the eucalyptus rearing its lofty
branches of evergreen foliage, with parrots of the
most brilliant colours chattering in the sunshine
amongst its blossoms, or extracting honey from the
cones of the nectariferous Banksiæ. Parramatta
itself is a military station, and the female convicts
are chiefly quartered here. They are confined with-
PARRAMATTA.
209
in the walls of an extensive building termed the
"Factory," where they are kept under a strict disci-
pline, and engaged in washing and other feminine
employments. In the neighbourhood of Parramatta
are some fine gardens, and many of the better class
reside in its vicinity.
:
CHAPTER VII.
THE ABORIGINAL INHABITANTS OF NEW SOUTH WALES.
As British civilization is daily spreading over the
Australian continent, so the degraded natives of the
soil are fast disappearing; and, in New South Wales
especially, they will, ere long, have totally disappeared.
During my stay there, I made constant search and
inquiry into the past history and customs of the abo-
rigines; and, combining my own observations with
those of others who have been eye-witnesses to their
ceremonies, I have been enabled to preserve such
records of these people as may prove interesting to
ethnologists at a future day. I have already entered
fully into the physical and social condition of the
aboriginal inhabitants of South Australia; but there
are many points of difference in the customs and
ceremonies of the people of New South Wales, of
sufficient interest to be treated of separately.
ABORIGINES OF NEW SOUTH WALES.
211
In personal appearance, the aborigines of New
South Wales greatly resemble the inhabitants of the
southern and western coasts of Australia; but they
are generally taller men, with figures better propor-
tioned; although their limbs are small, and their
legs and arms very thin. Few deformities of person
are to be found amongst them: inverted feet now and
then occur, but round shoulders or hunchbacks are
never to be observed. In the bush, the natives of
New South Wales may be said to go naked: both
men and women, however, bind a small fillet round
the head; the men also wear a narrow band about the
waist, and the women sometimes throw a strip of
kangaroo skin over their shoulders. If at any time
they consent to be clothed in some degree before the
settlers, they are quite indifferent to anything like
dress among their own people.
Both sexes use fish-oil as an unguent, which they
rub into their skins in order to protect them from the
effects of the air, and the stings of musquitoes and
other venomous flies. The smell of the oil, together
with the perspiration from their bodies, produces in
hot weather an odour that is far from agreeable; and
they may occasionally be seen with the entrails of
fish upon their heads, frying in the burning sun until
the oil runs down over their foreheads and shoulders.
Their hair receives a variety of decorations, according
to the notions of each individual, as to what is orna-
mental or becoming: the front teeth of the kangaroo,
human teeth, the jaw and other bones of fish, dogs'
་
212
DWELLINGS.
tails, and birds' feathers, are fastened to it by means
of the gum which they obtain from the wattle and
the grass-tree. The women take great pride in mak-
ing their children look fine. The tribes to the
southward of Botany Bay divide their hair into small
parcels, each of which they mat together with gum,
forming them into lengths like the thrums of a mop.
The northern tribes, especially about the Clarence
River, form the hair into an elongated cone; twisting
it round with a band of grass, so as to produce a
towering head-dress about two feet in height.
They ornament the breast, arms, and back with
large scars, or seams of cicatrized flesh these
permanent decorations being produced by gashes
made in their persons with broken pieces of the
shell which they use at the end of their throwing-
sticks after the incision is made, care is taken to
keep the part of the flesh asunder for a considerable
time, that a bulky cicatrix may remain after the
wound has healed.
:
Their dwellings are of the rudest and most primi-
tive description. The inhabitants of the woods make
huts of the bark of a single tree, bent in the middle,
and placed on its two ends on the ground, affording
shelter to only one person. Upon the sea-coast, the
huts are larger, and formed of several pieces of bark
put together in the form of an oven; the entrance
being on one side: these are of sufficient dimensions
to hold six or eight persons. The fire is always made
near the mouth of the hut, rather within it; and the
WEAPONS-THE SPEAR.
213
interior, of course, is filthy and smoke-dried. Besides
these huts of bark, the natives dwell in cavities in the
rocks; which, in some parts of the country are nume-
rous.* The stone of the country is generally of a soft
sandy nature, and the rocks, both on the shore and
inland, abound with caves, some of which are of suf-
ficient dimensions to contain forty or fifty persons.
Almost every rock has a number of caves hollowed
out of it, but whether by nature or art cannot in all
cases be determined. At the mouth of many of
these caves a very rich soil is found, consisting of
shells, entrails of fish, and other refuse of the inhabi-
tants within, who have dwelt in these caves, no
doubt, for ages past: with this soil the early settlers
were accustomed to manure their gardens.
Their principal weapon is the spear, as is the case
with all the New Holland tribes. There are several
varieties: some are long sticks merely pointed;
others have one or more barbs cut in the wood, and
a few are barbed with pieces of broken oyster-shells
-these are formidable instruments. The spear is
mostly thrown, like a dart, by means of the throw-
ing-stick; which is different from that used in South
Australia: it is at least three feet long, having a hook
at one end, and a shell at the other, fastened with
gum. The spear is thrown with great force and
certainty of aim: they can strike any object at a
distance of seventy yards; the stick remaining in
hand after the spear is discharged. The throwing-
* Appendix, Note 2.
214
THE BOMERANG, ETC.
stick serves also the purposes of a knife, when the
edge of the shell is sharp; it is also used as a spade
to dig up roots and grubs.
The bomerang is in use amongst them, and it is
astonishing with what precision they throw this
weapon; which, after taking a circuit in the air for
several hundred feet, returns to the precise spot
from whence it was thrown. "King Tamara," the
last of the Sydney tribe, properly so called, is very
expert at making these instruments, which require
great nicety to form them of the exact curve requi-
site to insure them returning to the spot from
whence they were thrown: these are called recoiling
bomerangs; others, which do not rebound, are used
for throwing at ducks.* I have seen bomerangs
that had the extremities carved with singular lines,
much resembling Persian characters. To the
northwards, where the myall-tree grows, the bome-
rangs and several other weapons are made out of its
wood, which is of a dark purplish colour, and emits
a pleasant odour resembling violets.
They have several sorts of clubs, or waddies, some
of them of large dimensions, and formed of exceed-
ingly hard wood. They have also a species of
triangular shield called a tawarang, which is about
three feet long, wide in the centre, and diminishing
in bulk towards the extremities; the inner side has a
handle hollowed out by fire, and the outside is carved
with waved lines. The tawarang is used during their
* Appendix, Note 3.
TOOLS-AMUSEMENTS.
215
dances, when it is struck with a club. In battle they
use the oval wooden shield called a hieleman.
Their tools are the mogo, or stone hatchet, formed
of a sharpened stone fastened between two pieces of
wood; a wooden mallet, and sharp fragments of
shells and quartz. For polishing their throwing-
sticks and the points of their lances, they use the
leaves of a species of wild fig-tree, which bites upon
the wood almost as keenly as the shave-grass of
Europe, which is employed by our joiners. Beauti-
ful rush-baskets are made by the women of Moreton
Bay and the Clarence River.
The boys are accustomed from their earliest infancy
to throwing the spear, and practising self-defence;
they begin by throwing reeds at each other, and
soon become very expert. Indeed the management
of the spear and the shield-dexterity in throwing
the various wirries and the bomerang—agility in either
attacking or defending, and a display of the constancy
with which they can endure pain, may be said to be
their principal amusements. The corrobbory is simi-
lar, in most respects, to that practised by the other
Australian tribes; occasionally, however, they dance
back to back in pairs; and at other times all the
performers sit down on the ground with their feet
under them, and, at a particular word, they raise
themselves up without any assistance from their
hands.* The exercise of throwing the ball is also
much practised by the young people. Like other
* See Appendix, Note 4.
216 DANCES AND SONGS -THE KEBARRAH.
savages, they are greatly inclined to indolence, and
never make provision for the morrow. They always
eat as long as they have anything left, and when
satisfied, stretch themselves out in the sun to sleep ;
where they lie till hunger, or some other violent
cause, calls them again into action. They have cer-
tain songs and poetical sentences which they make
use of, with some attention to time and cadence;
and in their little bark canoes they keep time with
their paddles, responsive to the words of a song. It
is a remarkable fact that all their new songs, dances,
&c., come from the north to the south, which tends
to prove their migration from the Asiatic Islands.
The initiatory rites into the privileges of manhood
amongst the savages of New South Wales, differ con-
siderably from those practised by the tribes inhabiting
the Southern and Western portions of the Australian
continent. The ceremony of kebarrah, or knocking
out the front tooth, appears to be the most important
feature of these rites; and probably supplies the
place of circumcision amongst other tribes. Colonel
Collins-who was eye-witness to an important cere-
mony of this nature, amongst the natives in the
vicinity of Port Jackson, before the European settlers
had driven back the aboriginal population-describes
the scene with graphic minuteness.
There being several youths in the neighbourhood of
Port Jackson who had not undergone this operation,
the latter end of January was chosen for the perfor-
mance of the ceremony; when the native tribes,
INITIATORY RITES OF MANHOOD.
217
painted, and bedecked with feathers and other orna-
ments, and armed with clubs, spears, and throwing-
sticks, assembled at the head of Farm Cove. An open
space, about thirty feet in length, called Yoolang, had
been cleared for the purpose; and previously to the
ceremony taking place, the nights were spent in danc-
ing. On the 2nd February, the people from Cammeray
arrived; amongst whom were the Koradjee men, or
priests, who were to perform the operation of knock-
ing out the tooth. When Colonel Collins reached
the spot, he found the party from the north shore
armed, and standing at one end of the Yoolang; at
the other end were the boys, who were to be given
up to the people of Cammeray for the purpose of
losing a tooth each, all accompanied by their several
friends. The ceremony opened with the armed
party advancing from their end of the Yoolang, with
a song or shout peculiar to the occasion, clattering
their shields, and raising the dust with their feet.
On reaching the boys, one of their number stepped
forward from the rest, and seizing a youth, returned
with him to his party, who received him with a loud
shout, and placed him in their midst, where he
seemed defended by a grove of spears, from any
attempts that might be made at rescue; in this man-
ner the whole of the lads were taken out, to the
number of fifteen. They were then seated at the
upper end of the Yoolang, each holding down his
head, with his hands clasped, and his legs crossed
under him. The Koradjee men now commenced
VOL. II.
L
218
INITIATORY RITES OF MANHOOD.
their mystic rites. One of them suddenly fell upon
the ground, and throwing himself into apparent
agonies, at length pretended to be delivered of a
bone, which was to be used in the ensuing cere-
mony. During his seeming agony, he was encircled
by a crowd of natives, who danced and sung around
him most vociferously, beating him upon the back
till the bone was produced. He had no sooner
risen from the ground, exhausted and bathed with
sweat, than another went through the same cere-
mony; there being as many bones produced as there
were boys to be initiated into the class of men. The
boys were given to understand that these pains were
suffered for their sakes, and that the more the Korad-
jees endured, the less pain would be felt by them.
Next morning, soon after sunrise, the Korad-
jees, who had slept apart by themselves, advanced
with quick movements one after another towards
the Yoolang, shouting as they entered it, and
running round it two or three times.
The boys
were then brought forward, from the place where
they had also passed the night alone, and after
being seated again at the head of the Yoolang, the
operators, about twenty in number, paraded several
times round it, running upon their hands and feet,
and imitating the dogs of the country: their decora-
tions were adapted for this purpose; and the wooden
sword, by being stuck in the hinder part of the
girdle which they wore round the waist, so as to lay
upon their backs, looked, when they were crawling
CEREMONY OF KEBARRAH.
219
upon
all fours, like the tail of the wild dog. Every
time they passed the place where the boys were
seated, they threw up the sand and dust upon them
with their hands and feet. The design of this cere-
mony was understood to be, giving them power over
the dogs, and endowing them with all the good qua-
lities possessed by this animal.
The next scene was opened by a stout native car-
rying on his shoulders the effigy of a kangaroo, made
of grass, followed by another man bearing a load of
brushwood, whilst the others sang and beat time to
the steps of the loaded men: the latter at length laid
down their burthens at the feet of the youths. By
thus presenting to them the dead kangaroo, it was
indicated that the power was about to be imparted to
them of killing that animal; while the brushwood
represented its haunts. The performers now collected
a quantity of long grass together, which they fastened
to the hinder part of their girdles in the form of a
tail hanging towards the ground; and thus equipped,
they put themselves in motion as a herd of kangaroos :
first jumping along with their knees bent, then lying
down and scratching themselves, as those animals do
when basking in the sun. One man beat time to
them with a club upon a shield, while two others,
armed, followed them all the way, pretending to steal
upon them unobserved, and wound them with spears.
This represented the manner in which they were to
hunt the kangaroo.
Presently, each man caught up one of the boys,
L 2
220
INITIATORY RITES OF MANHOOD.
and placing him upon his shoulders, carried him off
in triumph for a few paces, when they all set their
burthens down in a cluster together. Whilst the
boys were thus standing with their attendants, one
of the actors seated himself on the stump of a tree
facing them, and taking another man upon his
shoulders, the two men sat with their arms extended;
behind these a number of men lay close to each
other, with their faces to the ground, and behind
these again were two other groups of men on each
other's shoulders, with outstretched arms. As the
boys and their attendants approached the first of
these groups, the two men who composed it began to
move themselves from side to side, thrusting out
their tongues, and staring with all imaginable wild-
ness. After a few minutes the two men separated,
and the boys were now led over the bodies of the
men lying upon the ground; who, as soon as they
felt the boys upon them, began to writhe as if in
agony, and to utter dreadful groans. Having passed
over this living causeway, the boys were placed before
the second group, and similar grimaces were per-
formed as at the former stump; after which the whole
band moved forwards. At a short distance the party
halted; the boys were seated by each other, and
opposite to them were drawn up in the form of a
semicircle, the other party, now armed with spears
and shields. Opposed to this party stood the principal
Koradjee man, who held a shield in one hand and a
club in the other, with which he beat time; and at
*
CEREMONY OF KEBARRAH.
221
every third stroke the whole party poised and pre-
sented their spears at him, each touching the centre
of his shield.
They now commenced their preparations for strik-
ing out the tooth. The first subject they selected was
a boy about twelve years of age, who was placed upon
the shoulders of a native, seated on the grass: the bone,
which on the preceding evening had been produced
with such ceremony, having been sharpened at one
end, was used to lance the gum, in order to facilitate
the extraction of the tooth. A throwing-stick was cut
eight or ten inches from the end, and the gum being
lanced the smallest end of the stick was applied as high
up on the tooth as the gum would admit of, and the
operator being provided with a large stone, struck the
stick with it, and knocked out the tooth; the first can-
didate being dismissed, another was brought forward,
and so on, until the operation was concluded. After-
the tooth was extracted, the patient was led to a
distance by his friends, who closed the gum, and
equipped him in the decorations of his new state:
a girdle was tied round his waist, in which was
thrust a wooden sword, and a bandage wound about
his head, adorned with the leaves of the grass-
tree. His left hand was placed over his mouth,
which was to be kept shut; and the youth was on no
account to speak, and for that day was not permitted
to eat. The blood that issued from the lacerated
gum was not wiped away, but suffered to run down
the breast, and fall on the head of the man on whose
222 KEBARRAH OF THE MACQUARRIE TRIBES.
shoulder the patient sat, and whose name was added
to his this blood remained dried upon the heads of
the men and the breasts of the boys for several days.
The boys were now termed "Kebarrah," from keba,
a rock or stone. *
The ceremony of Kebarrah, as practised by the
tribes of the Macquarrie district, is somewhat diffe-
rent in its details from that of the natives to the
southward. It is usually on a summer's morning at
break of day, that the tribes assemble upon the Mac-
quarrie hills, to celebrate the mysterious rites of
Kebarrah. On such occasions, hostile tribes meet in
peace; all animosity between them being laid aside
during the performance of these ceremonies. When
the cooi or cowack sounds the note of preparation,
the women and children in haste make their way
towards the ravines and gulleys, and there remain
concealed. The tribe to which the youths belong
commence the ceremony by uttering a long-drawn
dismal yell, which echoes through the woods, and
is answered by the surrounding tribes in rotation.
After a short silence, the old men retire to hold a
council among themselves, whilst the young men with
their weapons bark the trees around the spot, for some
way up the trunks; another yell succeeds, and then
* See John i. 42: "Thou art Simon, the son of Jonah: thou shalt
be called Cephas, which is by interpretation a stone." See also
Appendix, Note 5, Keba or Giber, amongst the memoranda relative
to words used by the Sydney tribe, showing their affinity to other
languages, and affording strong proof of the Asiatic origin of this
people.
KEBARRAH OF THE MACQUARRIE TRIBES. 223
the whole of the tribes form into a ring,-the wakui,
with its horrible whizzing sound, is heard in the
distance, and enormous fires blaze around. On such
occurrences there are frequently from five to six
hundred natives present; their naked bodies fanci-
fully painted with pipe-clay, and their heads pro-
fusely powdered with the down of the wild swan.
An old man is stationed in a neighbouring tree,
making the most furious gestures, and whirling round
the wakui. The youths are now brought into the
ring by their fathers or nearest relations, and the
kebarrah song then commences, describing to the
candidates, in the strongest terms, the torture they
are about to undergo. The first ordeal is that of
knocking out the front tooth. This is done by
boring a hole in a tree, and inserting into it a small
hard twig; the tooth is then brought into contact
with the end, and one individual holds the candidate's
head in a firm position against it, whilst another,
exerting all his strength, pushes the boy's head for-
ward; the concussion causes the tooth, with fre-
quently a portion of the gum adhering to it, to fall
out. Some men stand over him, brandishing their
waddies, menacing him with instant death if he
utters any complaint; while others proceed to cut
his back in longitudinal stripes, and make an incision
on each shoulder with sharp flints. If the victim
utters the least groan, or indication of suffering,
during these tortures, three yells, long and loud,
uttered by the operators, proclaim the event to the
224 KEBARRAH OF THE MACQUARRIE TRIBES.
muharrah or encampment. The unfortunate youth is
then considered unworthy to be admitted as a war-
rior, or to mix with the men of his tribe; the women
are summoned with a loud cooi, and, when they
arrive, the youth is handed over to them with igno-
miny, as a coward; and he thenceforward becomes
the companion and playmate of the children.
Should he, on the other hand, submit without
shrinking, he is admitted to the rank of a huntsman
and a warrior. Another ring is then formed, con-
sisting of the aged men: the youth is placed in the
centre, and the mundie* is given to him; and the
old men then use every persuasive art to induce him
to return the stone to them again. If he resigns it,
he is still considered unfit to be a warrior, as he can
be talked over; but if he retains it, notwithstanding
all their entreaties, he is received into their number.
The war-song commences, and a sham fight ensues;
the youth being placed in the van to show his cou-
rage and the mode of handling his weapons. This
over, they all set up a loud cooi, as a warning for the
women to return to the camp, and the tribes follow,
singing the korinda braia as they return in proces-
sion. They then separate, to cook and eat around
their various fires, and the day is concluded with
feasting and dances.
* Mundie is a crystal, believed by the natives to be an excrement
issuing from the Deity, and held sacred. It is worn concealed in the
hair, tied up in a packet, and is never shown to the women, who are
forbidden to look at it under pain of death.
*
TREATMENT OF INFANTS AND WIVES. 225
When a child is born, it is laid upon the ground
upon a piece of soft bark, on which the mother car-
ries it about for a few days. As soon as it acquires
sufficient strength, it is removed to her shoulders,
where it sits with its little legs across the mother's
neck; and, taught by necessity, it soon catches hold
of her hair in order to prevent itself from falling.
The parents early decorate their children's hair with
fish-bones, kangaroo-teeth, feathers, and red ochre.
At the age of a few weeks, the child receives its
name, which is generally taken from some object
constantly before their eyes, such as a bird, fish, or
tree. Whilst still infants, the females undergo ampu-
tation of the two first joints of the little finger of the
left hand. This operation is called "Malgun," and
is effected by tying a hair, or some fine ligature,
round the joint; the flesh soon swells, and in a few
days the finger mortifies and drops off.*
Between the ages of eight and sixteen, both sexes
undergo the operation termed "Nganung," which
consists in boring the septum of the nose in order to
receive a bone or reed.
Polygamy is customary amongst these tribes; and
the method of obtaining their wives is extremely
brutal. The man, having fixed upon a woman as
his future companion, who is almost always selected
from amongst another tribe, secretly comes upon her
* Mutilations of the body were probably practised by all early
tribes. See Parkhurst. In Hebrew, Malgun is, and signifies
a cutting off in order to protection.
L 5
226
VISITATION OF SMALLPOX-SORCERY.
in the absence of her protectors, and stupifying her
with blows inflicted by a club or wooden sword upon
the head, back, and shoulders, every one of which is
followed by a stream of blood, he drags her away
through the woods by main force. They do not
consider marriage as lawful between those who are
more nearly related than first cousins.
In the year 1789, the aboriginal tribes of New
South Wales were visited with the smallpox, which
made dreadful havoc amongst them, and swept off
incredible numbers. The natives imagined that it
was the infliction of an evil spirit. It was this epi-
demic of which the natives of South Australia speak:
they say that it came down the Murray from the
country far to the eastward, and almost depopulated
the banks of that river for more than a thousand
miles. I have myself seen two aged men from high
up the Murray, beyond the great North-west bend,
who were deeply marked with the effects of smallpox.
The natives usually attempt to cure disease by
means of sorcery or charms. The Koradjee men or
priests perform their incantations over the sick,
waving boughs dipped in water, holding one in
each hand; they also throw themselves into various
distorted postures, applying the mouth to the affected
parts, and pretending to suck out or extract the
disease; at ength, after much appearance of labour
and pain, they will spit out a piece of bone, which
they represent as the cause of the disorder. Another
method of attempting to alleviate pain is practised
AVENGING AND BURNING THE DEAD.
227
by the women: the patient being seated on the
ground has a line passed round the head, the knot
with which it is tied being fixed in the centre of the
forehead; the end of the line is then taken by the
operator, who frets her own lips with it until they
bleed freely; the patient being led to suppose that
the blood proceeds from his head, and, carrying the
disease along with it upon the line, passes into the
woman's mouth.
The passion of revenge, so fondly cherished by
savages, has given rise to a singular custom among
the natives of New South Wales. When any one of
the tribe dies a natural death, it is usual to avenge
the loss of the deceased by taking blood from one or
other of his friends; spears are thrown on such occa-
sions, and it now and then happens that the wounded
party falls a victim to this promiscuous sort of retri-
bution.
The natives of New South Wales are accustomed
to burn their aged dead, but the young people are
buried bencati small tumuli. When a corpse is to
be burnt, it is laid upon a pile of dry wood and other
combustibles, about three feet in height; the body
being placed with the face towards the rising of the
sun, with fishing apparatus, spears, &c., arranged
beside it; the corpse is covered with large logs of
wood by the surviving relatives, who then set fire
to the pile. The next day the calcined bones and
ashes of the deceased are carefully buried. Should
a woman die, having a child at the breast, the living
228
FUNERAL RITES.
infant is buried with her: the natives argue that as
no one could be found to nurse the child, it is better
for it to lie with its mother, than be left to pine to
death. After any one dies their name is no more
mentioned; should any individual belonging to the
same tribe possess a similar name, he is required to
lay it aside and adopt some new name, by which he
is known during the remainder of his life.
The following account of the funeral rites of at
deceased child is as described by an eye-witness.
Previously to burying the corpse of the boy, a contest
with clubs and spears took place, but no injury was
done to the parties engaged. The body was placed
in a bark canoe, cut to the proper length; a spear,
a fishing-spear, and a throwing-stick, with several
smaller articles, being placed beside the corpse, the
women and children made 'great lamentations during
the ceremony, and the father stood apart, a picture of
silent grief. The canoe was placed on the heads of
two natives, who proceeded with it slowly towards
the grave; some of the attendants waving tufts of
dried grass backwards and forwards under the canoe
and amongst the bushes as they passed along. The
grave being dug, a native strewed it with grass, and
stretched himself at full length in the grave, first
upon his back, and then on his side. As they were
about to let down the child into the grave, they first
pointed to the deceased and then to the skies, as
though they had a vague idea that the spirit had
ascended to another world. The body was then laid
FUNERAL RITES.
229
in the grave, with the face looking towards the rising
sun; and, in order that the sunshine might fall upon
the spot, care was taken to cut down all shrubs
around that could in any way obstruct its beams.
Branches were placed over the grave, grass and
boughs upon these, and the whole was crowned with
a log of wood, on which a native extended himself
for some minutes with his face to the sky.*
On the sea-coast, these people live principally by
fishing, whilst those in the interior seek their sub-
sistence by the chase. Their fishing lines are made
from the tough stringy bark of various trees; which
is beaten between two stones until it arrives at the
consistency of oakum, and is then twisted into
strands, and formed into ropes of different dimen-
sions. Their hooks are sometimes formed of the
talons of a bird, such as an eagle or a hawk; but the
hooks most generally in use are made out of shells,
by rubbing them upon a stone into the shape required.
The fishing-spear is a long slender pole about twelve
feet in length, armed at the extremity with four
prongs bound together, each of which is barbed by a
kangaroo tooth, or a piece of bone sharpened to a
point. This weapon is employed for striking fish;
and, in fine weather, the natives may be seen lying
across their canoes, with their faces in the water, and
their fishing-spears immersed ready for striking :
the eyes being a little under water, they can per-
ceive the fish distinctly. For striking turtle they
* See Appendix, Note 6-Burial.
230
SPEARING TURTLES-
-CANOES.
use a sharp peg of wood, about a foot in length and
barbed, which fits into a socket at the end of a staff
of light wood, seven or eight feet long; the barb
being attached to the staff by one end of a loose
line. In striking the turtle, the peg which is fixed
into the socket enters the body of the creature, and
is retained there by the barb; the staff flying off,
and serving as a float to trace the course of their
prey in the water; they then overtake the turtle
with their canoes, and hunt him ashore. The wo-
men and children fish with the line; and they carry
a small fire in their canoes, which is laid upon sand
raised on wet seaweed, and, when hungry, they cook
their food while upon the water in this manner. The
women will sit patiently for hours together, in these
frail canoes of bark, exposed to the fervour of the
mid-day sun, chanting their little songs, and inviting
the fish beneath them to take the bait: as, with-
out a sufficient supply of food for their tyrants,
they would meet with a bad reception on their
landing.
Their canoes are very rude. To the southward
they are mere pieces of bark, very similar to those of
the natives upon the Murray River, but tied together
at the ends, and kept open by means of small bows
of wood: these are paddled by two small paddles,
one of which is held in each hand. Towards
the north the natives have canoes of a more sub-
stantial kind, formed out of the trunks of trees,
and about twelve or fourteen feet long: they are
K
BIRD-CATCHING-HORRID CANNIBALISM.
231
hollowed by fire, and shaped with the mogo, or stone
hatchet.
The tribes inhabiting the plains and forests of the
interior live mostly by the chase. They ensnare
small animals with a glutinous paste resembling bird-
lime, formed of a root bruised together with the eggs
of the large red ant. They are also expert in decoy-
ing carnivorous birds: a native will stretch himself
upon a rock, as if asleep in the sun, holding a piece
of fish in his hand; the bird, seeing the prey, and
not observing any motion in the native, darts on the
fish, and, whilst in the act of seizing it, is caught by
the wily savage.
Various reports are current, amongst the natives
on the coast, as to the existence of cannibal tribes in
the interior; and it is a well authenticated fact, that,
to the northward, portions of the bodies of the de-
ceased are eaten by their friends, as a token of re-
gard. At Moreton Bay a lad having died, several
men gathered round the body, and removed the
head and the thick outer skin, which was rolled upon
a stick, and dried over a slow fire. During this
horrid ceremony, the father and mother stood by,
loudly weeping and lamenting; and the thighs were
then roasted and eaten by the parents! The liver,
heart, and entrails were divided amongst the war-
riors, who carried away portions on their spears; and
the skin and bones, with the skull, were rolled up
and carried about by the parents, in their grass bags
or wallets.
ས་
232
OMENS AND OTHER SUPERSTITIONS.
The natives, at times, subsist on roots and berries;
the honey from the banksia blossoms, and grubs
from decayed wood, are also sought after by them.
In order to get more easily at the roots amongst the
underwood and scrub, the natives set fire to the
"bush" in many places; when the fire is extinguished
they dig up the roots, after roasting which they
pound them between two stones, until the roots be-
come soft enough to chew. In lighting their fires, if
they have occasion to break the sticks, they snap
them across the forehead, as we do across the
knee. Should a whale happen to be cast ashore
in some of the coves along the coast, as is some-
times the case, its carcass affords an extraordinary
treat to the natives, who feast upon the blubber for
many days.
Although these people do not acknowledge any
Supreme Being, their belief in spirits is universal;
hence their dread of moving at night, unless pro-
vided with a fire-stick or torch. Witchcraft is also
general amongst them. Of a shooting star, and of
thunder and lightning, they have great dread ; but
they imagine, that by repeating some particular
words, and breathing loud, they can disarm these
appearances of their supposed deadly power. Roast-
ing fish at night they imagine will prevent a vessel
from enjoying a fair wind; and if a person whistles
whilst under a rock, they think that it will fall and
crush him to death. They also believe that any one
sleeping on the grave of a deceased person would
OMENS AND OTHER SUPERSTITIONS.
233
be freed from the dread of all future apparitions; for
that, during that awful sleep, the spirit of the de-
ceased would visit him, seize him by the throat, and,
opening him, take out his bowels, which it would
afterwards replace and close up the wound! Such
as are hardy enough to go through this terrible
ordeal,-encountering the darkness of the night, and
the solemnity of the grave,—are thenceforth Koradjee
men, or priests, and practise sorcery and incantations
upon the others of their tribe.
..
CHAPTER VIII.
JOURNEY TO THE ILLAWARRA DISTRICT-LIVERPOOL
- CAMPBELTOWN-APEN-ILLAWARRA-DAPTO-
WOOLLONGONG.
DURING my stay in New South Wales, I visited the
beautiful district of Illawarra, situated about eighty
or one hundred miles to the southward of Sydney.
Accompanied by a young friend, we started on
horseback; and following the main road from Sydney
towards Parramatta for a few miles, we then struck
across to the Liverpool road. The distance of Liver-
pool from Sydney is about twenty miles. The
country on both sides has been, and in many places
still is, thickly wooded; but numerous inns and
public-houses occur at intervals along the road,
while the clearings in every direction, and the
amount of population one sees, independently of
the villages or clusters of houses here and there, all
convey the idea of a thickly settled country. Liver-
pool itself, however, is as dull and uninviting a
town as it is well possible to imagine: situated upon
LIVERPOOL AND CAMPBELTOWN.
235
a nearly level tract of country, in the centre of a poor
scrubby soil, and with neither hill nor river, nor
any other attractive feature to render it tolerable,
this miserable inland town consists of a few streets and
scattered dwellings with small gardens, and numerous
public-houses for the refreshment of travellers pass-
ing to and fro from Campbeltown. On entering the
town we passed a large and well-constructed build-
ing, which I understood to be an hospital.
From Liverpool the country improves towards
Campbeltown, and as the soil becomes richer every-
thing around has a more pleasing aspect; the sur-
face of the land is here undulating, and hills rise
beyond Campbeltown. The town itself consists
principally of one long street, reminding one of
similar market-towns in England, in which the
High-street is diversified here and there with the
leading inns, such as the "Golden Lion," the
66
Angel," or the "White Bear:" it is just so in
New South Wales. The conventional ideas of the
old country have been carried out to the very letter
as if they had been law: no allowance is made for
the wide difference of climate, and consequently of
habits, between the two countries; but here, in a
latitude of 34° south, we have houses destitute of
verandahs or screen-work, built with great glaring
windows and high roofs, as if to imbibe all the sun
possible. The very taverns are such painfully exact
fac-similes of those in England, that it is only after
leaving the town and looking abroad upon the
236
APPEN AND ITS IRISH HOSTS.
landscape of eucalyptus and banksia, and inhaling
the sweet scent of the wattles in blossom, that one
is again sensible of really being in Australia, and
not in some old town in one of the midland coun-
ties.
Between Campbeltown and Appen, a distance of
ten or twelve miles, the country becomes more
wooded; log huts break the dull monotony of the
sombre forests, and the wattle, now covered with a
sheet of yellow blossom, enlivens the scene here and
there with its gay and perfumed clusters.
Appen is a little straggling village amongst gum
trees, with numberless clearings all around. It is
inhabited mostly by Irish, and has two opposition
inns: at both of which, however, travellers, especially
strangers, are compelled to pay very extravagantly
for a night's accommodation. The hospitality of
the "bush," which is universal in South Australia
and in the more remote districts of New South
Wales, is unknown so near Sydney; the place of the
ever-open hut of the settler being here supplied by
a series of detestable little inns, kept by a race of
low and pilfering Irish.
A few miles from Appen, the country suddenly
assumes a totally different aspect: leaving the rich
and cultivated fields of the numerous settlers, whose
lands stretch away towards the north and west, the
traveller descends a deep ravine, or pass, between the
hills, called " Jordan's Creek," through which a
small river winds its way amidst abrupt rocks and
BUSHRANGERS.
237
overhanging foliage. The scene is extremely wild
and picturesque-savage-looking rocks frown from
above, and the steep precipices rising on both sides
of the glen are clothed with trees and brushwood,
that are mirrored in the dark still water beneath.
This romantic glen was once a favourite haunt of
bushrangers, but now they are seldom to be met
with; though we were told at Appen that two were
still lurking in the neighbourhood, and had stopped
a traveller only a few days since. The effective
mounted police force has done much to prevent the
existence of these marauding bands of runaway
convicts, who formerly struck terror into the breasts of
the out-settlers: the bushrangers have been thus kept
down, and many of their ringleaders being taken
and made examples of by summary justice, others
have been deterred from a similar bandit life.
On ascending the opposite side of the ravine-
which is so steep and precipitous that it was matter
of some difficulty to drag up our horses over the
loose and slippery rocks-we entered the scrub and
stringy-bark forest, where the scenery is of a totally
opposite character from that through which we had
previously travelled. The soil, consisting of a light
sand, is clothed with a stunted species of stringy-
bark tree (eucalyptus), which has a gloomy and
melancholy aspect; and beneath these trees grow an
endless variety of low shrubs and plants, belonging
exclusively to the poor and sandy soil of the scrub:
many of these plants were in blossom, variegating the
238
MAGNIFICENT WILD FLOWERS.
waste with their brilliant hues. Amongst the most
striking and beautiful of the wild flowers that adorn
these mountain forests of New South Wales, are
the "warrator" and the rock-lily. The "warrator" is
a slender shrub, growing with a single upright woody
stem to a height of six or seven feet; at the top of
which is a magnificent blossom of a deep crimson
colour, in shape and size bearing considerable resem-
blance to a full-blown peony. The natives occasion-
ally wear these "warrator" flowers in their hair as
ornaments. The rock-lily is a superb plant, gene-
rally growing on the edge of some rocky precipice,
or crowning a lofty barrier of rock with its giant
stem. The flower-stalk issues from a bunch of leaves
very similar to the New Zealand flax; and when it
has attained its full altitude it often measures thirty
feet, and bears at its summit a crown of scarlet lilies,
several feet in circumference. This singular and
gorgeous flower gives a peculiar character to the
scenery of some of the rocky gullies and chasms that
intersect these mountain forests; and the open flats
that intervene, though mostly swampy, are often
covered with heath and a variety of grasses.
From the summit of the hills, as we approached
the Illawarra district, we obtained beautiful and ex-
tensive views over successive ranges of stringy bark
forest, backed by the Blue Mountains; which rose in
the extreme distance, breaking the horizon with their
bold outline. The solitude of these forests is ren-
dered more lonely and impressive by the almost
ENCHANTING SCENERY OF ILLAWARRA.
239
unbroken stillness that reigns throughout their shady
recesses.
The road towards Illawarra, after following along
the flat-topped summits of successive ranges, takes a
sudden turn, when the traveller's gaze is arrested by
the unexpected sight of the vast Pacific Ocean, lying
far beyond and beneath, and appearing of a deep
hazy blue: its effect is truly refreshing to the sense,
after emerging from the sandy forests. A little
further on, the road surmounts the brow of Mount
Keerah; and from this point the scene is grand and
enchanting beyond description. Here we halted,
and tethering our horses upon an open plot on
the side of the path, made our way through the
brushwood to the edge of the mountain's brow, from
which we obtained an uninterrupted view over the
entire district of Illawarra. Dapto lay at our feet;
to our left the broad expanse of the Pacific Ocean
glittered in the afternoon's sunshine; and beneath
us the Illawarra lakes were visible, as on a map; the
distant coast-line being discernible towards Cape
Howe. The vegetation that clothed the steep sides
of the mountain was of a totally distinct character
from anything we had hitherto witnessed: it seemed,
on descending and entering Illawarra, that we had
suddenly become transported into a glen of tropical
vegetation; and the scene all around us was totally
new in character and aspect. We had entered upon
another climate: the dry arid soil of the stringy-bark
forest, with its stunted vegetation, was exchanged, as
240
SUPERB VEGETATION.
if by magic, for a damp, humid region, sheltered
from the wind by colossal barriers of rock, and pre-
senting a prodigal luxuriance and wealth of vege-
tation almost inconceivable. Plants and trees were
here altogether of different species from those we
had before witnessed: the gigantic cabbage-palm
and the seaforthia elegans towered to a height of
fifty, and even eighty feet; the caoutchouc-tree,
or India fig, reared its tortuous branches high into
the air, clothed with rich draperies of curious and
spreading parasites; and the graceful tree-ferns that
flourish in the windless dells of the moist forests of
New Zealand, are also indigenous here, enjoying a
similar warm and damp atmosphere. In short, no-
thing can exceed the beauty of the scenery, as the
traveller descends the winding and difficult path
leading down the mountain to the rich plains below:
here and there a group of cabbage-palms shoot up in
all the unrestrained luxuriance of the tropics; and
in other places the herbage is so rank with creepers,
ferns, and vines, as to be quite impassable. Here
we gathered wild raspberries, and beheld that splen-
did parasite, the elksicornia, adorning the trunks of the
forest trees.
On reaching the foot of the mountain, we again
entered a settled district; one of the richest and
most beautiful perhaps in New South Wales. Shel-
tered from the scorching northerly winds by the wall
of mountain-rocks that guards this favoured region,
the meadows are green and luxuriant all the year;
VALLEY OF ILLAWARRA.
241
whilst, on the other hand, they are open to the cool
breezes from the ocean; and the surrounding moun-
tains collect the clouds, which descend in fertilizing
showers upon the valleys beneath.
Pursuing the road to Dapto, along this rich vale,
we passed farms and cultivation on every side: sleek
cattle were grazing in the meadows, and all looked
beautiful in the glow of evening. The sun had dis-
appeared behind the mountains, and the purple of
evening settled over the landscape before we arrived
at our destination. This was at the homestead of
one of the settlers at Dapto; and it was with con-
siderable difficulty, after groping our horses' way
through paddocks and amongst gum-trees, that we
found the desired spot. A light glimmered from the
loft or upper story of a barn; from whence the bark-
ing of the dogs brought down our friend, to whom
we bore a letter of introduction. After supplying
our horses with corn, we ascended a steep flight of
wooden stairs to partake of the hospitality of our
host, in the temporary shelter which was afforded to
his family by the upper loft of this capacious barn.
Although it may appear strange to speak of living
in a barn, to those accustomed only to the extreme
of civilization in an old country, yet the spirited and
enterprising settler, who chooses to make a home for
himself and a provision for his family in the wilds of
Australia, must undergo privations that are unknown
at home. And yet these very privations, and the
rude and Crusoe-like life he has at first to lead, have
VOL. II.
M
*
242
SETTLER'S HABITATION AT DAPTO,
;
an air of romance about them that sweetens his toil;
while the constant calls upon his ingenuity and skill
produce an excitement that adds to his happiness.
So it was with our worthy host: he was building a
large and substantial dwelling-house close by, which
he hoped would be ready for occupation in another
month or two; and meanwhile he had converted the
upper story of the barn into a very comfortable and
exceedingly picturesque apartment. We sat down
to an excellent meal, and after supper a neighbour-
ing settler looked in; when we were agreeably sur-
prised by the wife of our friend entertaining us by
playing upon the harp. The apartment was a strange
medley of refinement and "bush" life: in one corner
was a piano with piles of elegant books; in another
part of the loft were cooking utensils, with a stove,
in which was a blazing fire-the smoke being led off
by a funnel through a hole in the roof; whilst here
and there the brush of a wild dog, or the tail of the
lyre-bird, or Mænura pheasant, was stuck as a trophy
between the rafters. We spent a most agreeable
evening with our kind friends, and then descended
to our night's quarters, whither our host conducted
us: and very snug they were; for, climbing up a
ladder in the lower portion of the barn, we reached
the top of the straw, where we made ourselves a
comfortable bed. All night we were serenaded by
the shrill whistling of plovers feeding in the sur-
rounding meadows; and when we awoke next morn-
ing, we found ourselves buried to our necks upright
in the straw, with only our heads visible above.
DAPTO-WOOLLONGONG.
243
From this perpendicular position we gradually ex-
humed ourselves, and felt truly thankful for so warm a
shelter; for, on going outside, the grass was covered
with a white frost.
The next day was spent in rambling about with
our friend, and sketching, amidst the beautiful sce-
nery of the surrounding neighbourhood. There is
a grove of cabbage palms on the margin of a small
stream close to this spot, and it was amusing to wit-
ness the dexterity with which the natives climb the
branchless and smooth trunks of these trees, by
means of a notched stick, and occasionally with no
other assistance than a piece of wild vine or supple-
jack, which they draw tight round the tree.
The accompanying view is taken from a mea-
dow just beyond the station where we were staying,
and will convey some idea of the peculiar and beau-
tiful scenery of the Illawarra country.
Bidding adieu to our friends at Dapto, we retraced
the road to Woollongong, a small town on the sea-
coast, near the foot of Mount Keerah. Woollongong
is the port of Illawarra, and several small vessels
trade constantly from thence to Sydney and back,
carrying supplies and produce by sea: this is much
more easy than land-carriage, as the mountains
render it next to impossible to convey heavy goods
by land to Sydney. The town is picturesquely
situated, and has a good pier. Several islands lie at
a short distance off the coast, which has obtained for
this locality the name of "the Five Islands."
M 2
CHAPTER IX.
VOYAGE ROUND CAPE HORN-RIO JANEIRO-ARRIVAL
IN ENGLAND.
Sept. 10th.-EARLY this morning the Royal Tar got
under weigh from the anchorage off Bradley's Head,
in the harbour of Port Jackson; and as she passed
out from between the tall buttresses of rock on each
side of the entrance to the harbour, we took
a last
look at the shores of New South Wales, and bore
away southward and eastward over the waters of the
Pacific.
Sept. 20th.-We have experienced boisterous wea-
ther during the last week: strong gales from the north-
north-east, and then from south-west. The inci-
dents have been few; and our only prospect has been
a tumultuous wilderness of mountain-billows, rushing
in their might up from the stormy south-" curling
their monstrous heads," foam-crested-looking aw-
ful from their vast size and endless multitude. Over
this howling desert of waters-this melancholy sea of
storm-the albatross and the petrel flit, spirit-like:
VOYAGE HOME.
245
the only living things visible beyond the wooden
walls of our floating prison.
About noon to-day we got a glimpse of the coast
of New Zealand, near North Cape: it was dim and
distant, and only occasionally visible between the
mountainous waves.
On the 27th, we passed the meridian of 180°, out
of east into west longitude. We have about six
thousand miles to run for Cape Horn, across the
South Pacific Ocean.
Off the Chatham Islands we encountered very
bad weather, and the barometer fell lower than it
had hitherto done. Whilst lying-to, we lost our
lee bulwarks, and the sea ran tremendously. The
albatross and the ocean-birds are very hungry after a
gale of wind quite voracious, and so bold in search
of food that it is very easy to catch them.
Oct. 7th.-Lat. 43° south, long. 162° west. The
weather becomes colder, and the passengers stump
and down the decks all day long, backwards and
forwards, like caged animals in a travelling mena-
gerie.
up
The chill south wind comes wandering over the
waste of waters, rough and blustering; and the giant
masses of foam that are driven before its fury, tell of
dark and dreary abodes round the pole, and of the
ice-bound regions of the Antarctic. The bright and
happy sky of Australia is exchanged for a wilderness
of everlasting surges; and the dull and melancholy
birds that wander restlessly over their surface, only
246
VOYAGE HOME.
serve to make the scene more dreary by their shrill
and dismal cry. These birds are the heralds of ship-
wreck, of storm, and of death: they have no fellow-
ship with those winged creatures of light and beauty
that flit to and fro in the sunshine of the forests.
The sun went down so wildly, it seemed as though
he fled in anger from a scene thus waste and deso-
late; and the huge moaning waves caught in succes-
sion on their rising crests a lurid reflection of that
departing brightness, as it glared down upon the cold
grey ocean.
Oct. 17th.-Lat. 50° south, long. 134° west. Dur-
ing the last few days, we have had strong winds from
the W.S.W. and N.W., with cold, stormy weather.
On deck, the thermometer stood at 45°; yesterday
we had hail-storms with wind at S.W.; and to-day
the wind is W.N.W., with fog and cold drizzling
rain occasionally. The days, dull and cheerless as
they are, drag on until eight o'clock, and the twilight
becomes really tedious.
Oct. 24th.-Lat. 55° south. A strong south-east
gale, accompanied by violent squalls of hail; and,
towards night, we had snow-storms. All is cold and
desolate. Just before sunset, it commenced snowing
heavily, and the orange glare of the stormy sunset
was half hidden by the drifting snow-flakes, as they
were whirled along over the waves, mingling with
the sea-foam driven by the violence of the wind.
The barometer to-day fell to 29.10.
Oct. 25th.--Thermometer on deck, 38°. Hail and
VOYAGE HOME.
247
snow storms occasionally; but between the squalls,
which are from S.S.W., there has been some cheer-
ing sunshine, and we got peeps of the sky, cold,
clear, and blue. The albatross appears to have for-
saken us, and has shaped its course farther north.
We are now distant 1400 miles from the Horn.
Oct. 29th. Some ice-birds were seen towards
evening they are perfectly white, and rather larger
than a Cape pigeon.
Nov. 5th.-The latitude to-day at noon, 58° 19′
south. The air damp and raw, and the horizon, as
usual in this high latitude, remarkably hazy: we
have daylight till past 9 P.M.
More ice-birds seen.
Nov. 6th.-To-day we passed Cape Horn, in lati-
tude 58° south. The Cape, which is in reality a
rocky island, is in lat. 55° 58′ 40″ south, long.
67° 12′ 25″ west.
The clouds this evening bore so strong a resem-
blance to land, that a little imagination might easily
have converted them into the high snowy peaks of
Staten Island.
The number of Cape pigeons that follow in the
wake of the vessel is astonishing. They appear very
hungry, and are perpetually in danger of being
sucked down by the little whirlpools that eddy in
the vessel's wake, whilst diving and scuffling for the
morsels of food thrown overboard.
Zealander, Pomara, caught a great
with a hook and line, and sent them
canvass collars round their necks.
My young New
many of them
away again with
"Mother Cary's
248
VOYAGE HOME.
chickens" (procellaria) were seen for the first time
during the voyage.
Nov. 14th. Off the Falkland Islands. Large
masses of kelp are constantly floating by. The day
was fine and mild, and almost calm; and about 9 P.M.
there was a total eclipse of the moon.
Nov. 21st. Our course being nearly due north,
we are fast entering a milder climate. The latitude
to-day is 39° south. The atmosphere is still damp
and misty, and a drizzling fog has for some days
hung about the surface of the water. For the first
time during the voyage, I observed the small "Por-
tuguese men of war" scattered over the ruffling waves,
with their little blue sails tossing buoyantly.
Nov. 22nd.-At sunset, beneath a heavy bank of
cloud, the brightness of the sun burst forth for a
moment with indescribable splendour; and there was
a rosy brightness all around it so dazzling and so
glorious, that it looked too lovely for the dark ocean
and the dull heaving ship. It was but for a moment,
however, and the dark ocean and the dull heaving
ship harmonized once more.
Nov. 25th.-Fell in with a "Pamperro" wind, or
south-west gale: lightning and heavy weather; lat.
33° 50' south.
Nov. 30th.-Lat. 26° south. So extremely clear
were the heavens to-day, that, at half-past one P.M.,
I distinctly saw the moon overhead, and a planet
which I supposed to be Venus: both visible in the
blazing light of a nearly vertical sun!
NEARING THE BRAZILIAN COAST.
249
Dec. 2nd.-This morning we were cheered by the
sight of land: the high mountains of South America
were before us, in the province of Rio Janeiro.
The day broke gloriously, and it was beautiful in the
extreme to see the Brazilian coast with its jagged
and lofty peaks, now struggling through the mists of
early day.
To the voyager, weary of the endless waters, land
is a joyous spectacle; and to us it is gladdening
to see the blue peaks of South America glittering
in the pure sunshine, and inhale the fragrance of
sweet blossoms from the shore, brought hither by
the land-breeze during the night, to watch the
green and golden dolphin, flashing like a blaze of
jewels through the snowy foam,—and to know that
we are rapidly nearing an earthly paradise, and that
the sparkling fish, radiant with beauty, and the stray
birds and butterflies overhead that have wandered
from the shore, are harbingers of more brightness
and beauty upon the land that lies bathed in sun-
shine before us. Such influences as these bring
with them happy and buoyant spirits. Here, too,
we saw the turtle, lying like little floating islets upon
the surface of the water, with their heads stretched
up into the morning sunshine. Large and very
singular-looking birds, with long wings and tails,
soared above us; and as we neared the land, new
beauties presented themselves every moment.
Passing the island of Raza-on which stands the
lighthouse and Rodondo, a lofty abrupt cone-the
M 5
250
HARBOUR OF RIO JANEIRO.
Paya and Maya islands are seen to the right, scat-
tered with cocoa-nut trees; and the Morris's isles, of
tragic interest, lie still further distant. Here the
grandeur of the mountains becomes very imposing:
giant masses of rock-hurled, as it were, into the
most wild and remarkable forms, resembling spires,
cubes, and pyramids-rear their lofty summits, bare
and naked, against the sky,
The entrance to the harbour of Rio Janeiro now
faced us, guarded by the Sugar Loaf mountain on
the left, and on the right by the conical rock above
Santa Cruz. We speedily discovered houses, and
forts, and flags, with crowds of shipping in the dis-
tance between the opening. On the right of the
entrance stands the fort of Santa Cruz: here no
vessel is allowed to pass into the harbour without
hailing, and reporting "her name," "where from,"
"number of days out," &c. The water is deep close
alongside the fort, and any vessel not bringing up,
or coming within hail, is immediately fired at, with-
out the slightest ceremony, until she obeys these
orders. Farther on, situated upon an island nearly
in the centre of the harbour, is the fort of Vilganhon,
which we had also to hail; and being permitted to
pass, we were directed to our anchorage, not far
from this latter fort, and about two miles from the
shore. Here we lay in company with other vessels
that had put in for refreshments: ships waiting to take
in or discharge cargo lie higher up the harbour, close
to the city. The health and customs officers visited
LANDING AT RIO JANEIRO.
251
us in their galleys, rowed by slaves, who rose from
their seats and bent forward, at each stroke of their
massive oars. A boat from the Cyclops, the British
man-of-war steamer on the station, also came alongside.
Before we were "cleared" the sun was low in the
western horizon, and just as the burning orb was sink-
ing over the city, flashing up its broad golden beams
from behind the dark mountain of La Gavia, I
stepped into one of the numerous boats that plied
alongside the vessel, screened with a canopy of
white cotton, and pulled by negroes; and in less
than half an hour, we were in the streets of the
capital of the Brazilian empire. It was past sun-
down when we landed at the quay fronting Pharoux'
hotel: the sea-breeze had died away, and the hot,
still atmosphere of the city was oppressive, after a
day of vertical sunshine-such sunshine! The pure,
dazzling light had faded rapidly into twilight, and
the burst of glory that shot up arrowy rays of gold
from behind those western mountains, that gleamed
purple as the amethysts they embosom, was soon
exchanged for the clear moon, that bung like a
silver lamp over the busy city.
It being the birth-night of Don Pedro, the young
Emperor of Brazil, all the principal streets, with the
chief public buildings, were blazing with lamps; the
opera-house and the "teatro" were gaily illuminated,
and the citizens were all abroad, enjoying the general
festivity.
We took up our quarters at Pharoux' hotel, where
252
PHAROUX' HOTEL.
most of the attendants speak French. The restau-
rant of this extensive building has a gay and lively
appearance: it is furnished in the French style, the
walls being hung with enormous mirrors, and count-
less café tables are arranged about the spacious
apartment. Here were congregated groups of officers
from the British, French, and American men-of-war
lying in the harbour, dining on mullet and fricassées,
and growing jovial over champagne and moselle ;-
merchants of all nations were seeking one another at
this general rendezvous, to transact business over
iced claret ;—young midshipmen might be seen de-
vouring oysters and pine-apples, and hot strangers
in vain endeavouring to cool themselves by sucking
lumps of ice, and swallowing successive draughts of
"Refresco Gazoso" to an alarming extent. The
centre of the saloon was ornamented by a conical
succession of circular shelves, surrounding a column.
that formed the centre of this enormous "dumb
waiter." The lower shelves groaned beneath rich
heaps of golden luscious fruits: oranges three times
as large as those we see at home, pine-apples, bananas,
guavas, bread-fruits, caiju, and (more delicious than
all) luxuriant bunches of green and cooling water-
cress. The noisy gaiety and excitement within,
beneath the sparkling lamps, was answered to from
without by the din and bustle of the boatmen on the
moonlit shore, and by the incessant jabbering and
shouting of the negroes and water-carriers that
thronged the lighted streets.
STREETS AND SHOPS OF RIO JANEIRO. 253
We strolled down the Rua do Ouvidor-a long
Busy street, lined on both sides with handsome shops,
brilliantly lighted, and filled with every variety of
tasteful and fancy articles. These shops are mostly
kept by French and Portuguese tradesmen-rarely
by Brazilians, who are too proud, indolent, and im-
provident to engage much in business.
The Rua do Ouvidor is principally devoted to the
milliners, mercers, artificial flower-makers, stationers,
and confectioners, and is one of the most gay and
attractive streets in Rio Janeiro. The principal
street, however, leading up from the Palace Square
to the gate of the famous convent of Sao Bento, is
the Rua Direita; which is the widest, and contains
several public buildings and churches, besides the
Exchange and the Custom House. This street is
the resort of merchants, ship-chandlers, and money-
changers. Gold Street makes a dazzling display;
presenting a long line of jewellers' shops, filled with
chains, crucifixes, hearts, ear-rings, and every variety
of ornaments made of gold—saints, glories, remon-
strances, fonts for holy water, lamps, and apostles,
for the churches, in silver, and Brazilian gems and
stones in abundance, especially diamonds and topazes.
But the Rua do Ouvidor pleased us beyond any of
the others; though, like most of the streets in Rio
Janeiro, it is narrow, and badly paved with rough
stones, over which an occasional chariot, containing
some fair señora or Brazilian don, rushes along, drawn
by stately mules, their trappings ornamented with
254
ARTIFICIAL FLORISTS.
silver, urged to their full speed by black postilions,
to the imminent risk of any one who may happen to
step an inch off the pavement. But although thus
narrow and badly paved, the shops are really hand-
some, and the profusion of "bijouterie" arranged for
sale is quite curious. We paused before the windows
of the confectioner, and there saw divers conceits in
sugar and paste-little Don Pedros (perfect images
of the Emperor), singularly wrought out of white
sugar, whole length ladies and madonnas in clear
sugar-candy, and coloured busts of the same sweet
material, so large and lifelike that we imagined them
to be "dummies" from the peruquier opposite. But
the glory of the Rua do Ouvidor are the salons of the
artificial florists; which are full, not of flowers only,
but of pretty girls, French and Portuguese, who sit,
pale and pensive, amidst the scentless bouquets that
surround them on all sides, the work of their busy
and delicate fingers. In one of the principal of these
salons, at a late hour at night, we observed, on look-
ing down the long vista of nosegays formed of feathers,
at least forty young girls arranged in two rows, twenty
on a side, behind long counters, all busily employed
To make this tableau of beauty complete, mirrors
were placed at the end of the salon, so that we
beheld, to our admiration and amazement, eighty
young girls, many of them mere children, all zeal-
ously and determinately creating roses, lilies, and
every known species of flower, out of feathers and
beetles' wings. A lynx-eyed Portuguese dame, ad-
PANORAMA OF RIO FROM THE CASTLE HILL. 255
vanced in years-evidently the mistress, duenna, or
dragon of the poor little mam'selles-kept an incessant
look out, up and down the counters, to see that all
went on as it ought to do; and close to the spacious
portals of the salon, opening upon the street, there
were stationed, like the syrens of Scylla, two of the
prettiest girls,full of naîveté and wit, each at a little
table, on which were arranged several of the choicest
bouquets, that they might lure the passers-by into
making a purchase. The girls spoke French, and
were very good-looking, and the flowers were truly
exquisite.
Who could refrain from entering, and
refuse to buy? Not we.
Mma. Va. Labbè gave us
a card, which ran thus:-" Fabrica de flores de todas
as qualidades; limpa-se e tinge-se pennas ;" and
we left the Rua do Ouvidor, with its syrens and
flowers.
The next morning rose like a bright dream: life,
and light, and sunshine, were abroad. Before six
o'clock we were upon the castle-hill-one of the steep
bluff eminences that rise abruptly from amidst the
city-from whence we looked down upon its myriads
of red-tiled roofs, and its numerous churches and
convents, as from a balcony. The dew still hung
thickly on the verdant grass, and the banana had
not yet waved before the refreshing sea-breeze.
It was the moment of calm and silent loveliness
that heralds the tropical sunrise, when Nature, re-
freshed by the gentle night-dews, has not yet begun
to droop beneath the fervent noontide heat. And, at
256
PANORAMA OF RIO FROM THE CASTLE HILL.
this early hour, the insect world was busy: thou-
sands of butterflies hovered over the dewy and
sweet-scented bushes, gemming the windless atmo-
sphere with their loveliness. Beyond the city, and
its scattered and picturesque suburbs, the noble har-
bour extended like a vast mirror, sprinkled with
ships of all nations; and boats, with snow-white
latine sails, lay asleep upon its bosom. Mountains,
islands, and the distant hazy ocean; convents, whose
white walls peeped from amongst palm trees and
deepest foliage; scattered cottages, embowered in
rich gardens; and stately villas, terraces, and aque-
ducts,-all glittered in the first beams of day; and
this fairy panorama was completed by the distant
ranges of the Montes Orgãos, the Gavia, and the
Corcovado, looming dim and shadowy amongst the
clouds; with the huge Sugar-Loaf peak at the en-
trance of the harbour, towering above the wreath of
mist that encircled its almost perpendicular sides.
At ten o'clock the thermometer stood at 92° in
the shade; and it was not until after the sea-breeze
set in, that the heat became tolerable. We rambled
for several miles along the romantic pathway that
leads towards Tijuca and the Corcovado, and follows
the course of the aqueduct which conveys water to
the city from the neighbouring mountains. The
views, at every turn of the road, are exceedingly
picturesque; commanding beautiful glimpses of the
city and the harbour, with its islands, and the distant
mountains beyond. The aqueduct is carried down
THE AQUEDUCT OF RIO.
257
a gradual descent along the spurs of the hills, until
it reaches the convent of Santa Teresa, overlooking
part of the city; here, a series of magnificent arches
conveys
the water across an extensive valley, to that
portion of the city near San Francisco, where it is
supplied to the inhabitants from a fountain with at
least twenty brazen taps: the water is, in a similar
manner, conducted to various parts of the city.
Although the aqueduct is covered in with stone-
work, and the water is thus kept delightfully cool
during its passage from the mountains, there are
here and there apertures, with iron railings, at which
the pedestrian may slake his thirst; and it is usual
to carry a small drinking-cup, made for the purpose.
out of a young cocoa-nut shell. Passing the convent of
Santa Teresa, which is picturesquely situated on an
elevated plateâu overlooking the city, we at once
get into the country, and become surrounded on
every side with the richness of tropical vegetation ;
here and there a pretty cottage or country-house,
half hid amidst the shade of bananas and cocoa-nuts,
displays its red tileing, the pure white of the build-
ing forming a strong contrast to the deep greens of
the surrounding foliage.
Perhaps, amidst all the glory of the tropics, nothing
strikes the eye of a stranger more, especially in Brazil,
than the resplendent profusion of insect life: butterflies
of countless varieties, and many of them of enormous
magnitude, displaying the most gorgeous tints ofcolour,
FL
258
RESPLENDENT PROFUSION OF INSECTS.
float through the sunny air, skimming along with the
rapidity of thought,-now descending suddenly from
the top of some stately palm, and then flitting from
bush to bush, in and out among the foliage,—until
the eye becomes bewildered with their fascinating
beauty; again, perhaps, some superb variety, of bird-
like size, will flit past, borne through the still air on
silent pinions, glancing along the vista of chequered
shade and sunlight, and startling one with its sudden
and meteor-like appearance. It is a sight indescrib-
ably beautiful to the lover of nature, to watch these
brilliant creatures flash in the sunshine, and to ramble
amidst scented blossoms, where the humming-birds
are busy like bees around the jessamine, the coffee
blossom, and the long slender bells of the trumpet
flower.
It was evening before we returned from our de-
lightful ramble: for, when weary, we lay down to
rest in the green shade, and regaled ourselves with
refreshing draughts of the cool water from the aque-
duct; and then, after strolling here and there in
search of new beauties, we would rest again upon
the shady turf, and contrast all this loveliness with
the monotony of the dark and tempestuous ocean
we had so long been traversing.
At sunset we entered the convent of St. Catherina,
where vespers were being sung. The nuns and no-
vices of this convent are very numerous; and it is
customary with the Brazilians to immure their wives
CONVENTS OF ST. CATHERINA AND SAO BENTO. 259
occasionally in this convent, that the ladies may be
securely guarded during the absence of their lords
on a journey into the interior. We had heard the
nuns spoken of as very handsome, but could not see
sufficient of them to judge of their claims to personal
beauty, as a thick and very close lattice-work sepa-
rated the gallery of the nuns from the outer portion
of the church, through which their forms were but
dimly visible; but their rich mellow voices, chanting
the vesper hymn, produced a sweet harmony, seem-
ing, like the song of the caged nightingale, sweeter
and more pensive from the songsters being im-
prisoned.
The richest convent in Brazil is that of Sao Bento;
an extensive building, crowning an eminence at the
top of Rua Direita, and overlooking the harbour and
the Ilha das Cobras, or Isle of Snakes. From the
entrance gate of the convent, a magnificent view of
at least half the city is obtained; and the numerous
windows, looking out of the cells and corridors of
the building on every side, command different pro-
spects, all of great beauty. The chapel of Sao Bento
is one rich piece of emblazonry in gold and marble.
The pillars, sides, and roof are all gilt and ornamented
with the most elaborate carving and arabesque work,
and the effect of this stupendous mass of rich deco-
ration is almost overpowering. Lamps of solid silver,
at least twelve feet in height, and of enormous weight,
are suspended from the gorgeous roof of this golden
chapel. Most of the wealth of the monks of Sao
260
FIRE-FLIES.
Bento consists of land and diamond mines, and
many of the brotherhood belong to Brazilian families
of distinction.
We spent an evening with a friend at his country
house, situated amongst the hills at the back of
Bahia da Gloria, and enjoyed the luxury of a night
ramble. The vegetation was gemmed with fire-flies,
flitting like sparks over the low bushes, and shining
in dark places with their pale green light, illuminating
every dell as with a thousand restless stars—
Sorrowing we beheld
The night come on, but soon did night display
More wonders than it veiled-innumerous tribes
From the wood cover swarmed, and darkness made
Their beauties visible: one while they streamed
A bright blue radiance on the flowers that closed
Their gorgeous colours from the eye of day;
Now, motionless and dark, eluded search,
Self-shrouded; and anon, starring the sky,
Rose like a shower of fire !"
SOUTHEY'S Madoc.
With the first beams of the sun, the humming
birds were darting into the bells of the campanula,
and hovering over the jessamine, thrusting their
slender beaks into the flowers to extract the honey
they contain. I took a dewy walk amongst the
coffee plantations in search of insects; amongst the
most remarkable of those I obtained was a caterpillar
about four inches long, of a pale green colour, armed
with poisonous spines that projected from its body
all over to the length of half an inch. This singular
BAHIA DA GLORIA-BOTO FOGO.
261
caterpillar was feeding on the jessamine, and on
handling it I experienced violent pain and irritation,
as though my hand had been stung by a nettle.
Bahia da Gloria, or the Bay of Glory, is an
enchanting spot, worthy of its name.
Here are
situated the residences of most of the Brazilian
nobility; and the white villas, together with the
church of Sta. Maria da Gloria, ornamenting the
richly wooded sides of this deep and picturesque
bay, combined with the intense blue of the water
and the bright tropical atmosphere, render it almost
a fairy scene.
Further on round the promontory, after pass-
ing Bahia da Gloria, is the secluded and land-
locked Bay of Boto Fogo; backed by steep moun-
tains and rocks, that, attracting the moisture from
the clouds, are frequently wrapped in mist. The
Sugar Loaf mountain forms a conspicuous object
across this bay, shutting in the entrance to the
harbour; and the scattered village of Boto Fogo lies
along the margin of the shore, looking upon the
water, while at the foot of the steep mountains
behind, are gardens and glens of the most luxuriant
foliage.
In the damp and shady recesses about Boto Fogo,
are plants and parasites of uncommon beauty. I
observed on the sea-shore beyond the bay no less
than four species of convolvulus, all displaying their
gay blossoms within the space of a few yards.
About eight miles from Rio Janeiro, beyond Boto
262
VIEW FROM THE MOUNTAINS.
Fogo, there is a lovely mountain-path leading to a
ruined archway on the summit of the mountain-ridge
that divides the harbour from the ocean. I pursued
it alone, and never shall I forget the silent rapture
with which I stood by that arch and gazed around;
looking down upon the gay harbour and the distant
city on the one hand, while on the other lay a
waste of wild and dreary sand-hills, intersected with
glens of rich foliage, bounded by the immeasurable
ocean-the vast Atlantic. There was no sound
save the distant roar of the sea, every wave of which
I could see distinctly break along the shore for
miles; and no sign of life but the busy throng of
insects flitting around, and an occasional serpent
gliding stealthily into the bushes.
I descended to the sea-shore and bathed in the
surf. The sandy plain and the hill sides adjoining
were clothed with magnificent plants. The cactus
here attained a height of ten or twelve feet, and the
yucca, the aloe, and the palm, grew in unchecked
luxuriance, whilst at every step some
new and
beautiful shrub would meet the eye.
During my stay in Brazil, I was introduced to
the celebrated Rugendas, the French artist, whose
pictures of South American scenery are so justly
esteemed. Rugendas had not long since returned
from a sketching tour amongst the Andes of Chili.
I accompanied him to the annual exhibition of paint-
ings at the National Academy in Rio Janeiro on the
opening day. The rooms were decorated with a
EXHIBITION OF ART IN RIO.
263
profusion of flowers, and the stone floors of the
various apartments were strewn with the leaves of
laurel and bay. Two rooms were devoted to the
chalk-drawings and other productions of the students
during the past year. Several pieces of sculpture
were exhibited of considerable merit. The best pic-
tures-for there were about half a dozen very clever
ones amongst an alarming quantity of trash-were
a couple of exquisite landscapes; three paintings
by Rugendas-"Wild Horses on the Pampas,'
Thirsty Travellers arriving at a Boiling Stream,"
and “Crossing a Glacier of the Andes,”—and a won-
derfully painted Scripture piece, by Barraudio,—
"The Murder of the Innocents,"-in which the ex-
pression of horror is admirably portrayed. There
were many indifferent portraits, and amongst them
two of the Emperor. Although the fine arts have
not been much patronized in the New World, it is
gratifying to observe that the Brazilians are follow-
ing in the march of intellect.
CC
The palace of the Emperor is a plain building,
forming two sides of a quadrangle, facing the land-
ing place near Pharoux' Hotel. The guards wear a
blue uniform, and it is amusing to see regiments
composed of awkward figures of all heights, chiefly
creoles and mulattoes, going through their exercsise
in the streets.
The market of Rio Janeiro is well stocked with
fruit, vegetables, and fish. It is situated close to
the public fountains on the quay, at one side of the
Palace-square.
264
POPULATION OF RIO.
Numerous emigrants are annually arriving in
Brazil from Lisbon and Oporto, and these constitute
the most hard-working and industrious portion of
the population; there are also several bodies of
Swiss emigrants, who have established themselves
in villages high up in the Montes Orgaos, or Organ
Mountains. The coloured population are the most
numerous; they present fine athletic figures, and the
negresses render the streets picturesque by their
gaudy costume. Some of these people I ob-
served in the streets, belong originally to a pecu-
liar African tribe, who have their faces curiously
tattoed, or studded with a row of excrescences,
like warts, extending. from the forehead, down the
centre of the nose, and over the lips and chin,
giving to the countenance, when seen in profile, a
strange and repulsive appearance. Elephantiasis and
leprosy are of frequent occurrence amongst the ne-
groes: the former disease causes the feet and legs to
enlarge enormously, and grow horny and distorted;
and I have seen poor creatures afflicted with this
hideous and loathsome disorder, whose feet actually
resembled those of an elephant more than of a
human being.
The church of the Candellaria, and the monastery
of San Francisco, are well worthy of a visit; as is
also the chapel of the Emperor. Near the latter is
a building once used as the Inquisition, which has
lately been abolished.
Towards evening I entered the chapel of the
1
GRAND FUNERAL OF A CHILD.
265
Benedictines, where some ceremony was going for-
ward, and curiosity tempted me to linger a while.
A long row of men in black and white surplices
lined each side of the grand aisle, and on an elevated
stand in the centre, before the altar, was a box of
crimson velvet, lined with white satin, and decorated
all round with bunches of artificial flowers, contain-
ing what I at first imagined to be an exquisitely
wrought figure in wax, of some saint for whom they
were performing mass. At the conclusion of the
mass the box was shut, and carried in procession out
of the church to an enclosed garden, full of sepulchres,
in the high rocky sides of which were niches for
sealing up the dead. I followed amidst the crowd,
who halted with the priests before a small altar
beneath a verandah in the garden. The velvet
case was again opened to sprinkle holy water upon
the figure within, and I discovered, being now close
to the altar, that what I had mistaken for a wax
image was in reality a lovely dead infant; there was
a bloom on its cheek, and the long silken fringes
that so gently shadowed its closed eyelids made one
think that it was only asleep, and would wake again:
the perspiration, too, stood on its forehead, but it
was the clammy sweat of death. The corpse was
robed in blue satin, trimmed with rich lace, and a
flower was placed in its hand. After a censer of
incense had been swung for some time above the
body, the lid was shut down, and the case secured
by a lock and key; the beautiful crimson velvet of
VOL. II.
N
266
GRAND FUNERAL CEREMONY.
the exterior was then cut crosswise in gashes with a
knife, as though to mark that corruption and decay
had now claimed it for their own; and the remains
of this infant of rank were sealed up in one of the
niches that occupied the wall of this sepulchral
garden. It was a strange, solemn place: the day was
setting in glory, and the last beams from the sun
stole across the gloom of the garden, burnishing the
tops of the cypress trees, and leaving the tombs and
monuments below in dark and silent shade.
On the evening of the following day, which was
one of incessant heavy rain, the funeral of Don
Silva, the Prime Minister of Brazil, took place, at
the convent of Sao Bento. He was buried by
torch-light, with military honours; a large cavalcade
of horse soldiery formed a part of the procession,
and the cannon continued firing till nearly mid-
night.
Steam-boats ply from Rio Janeiro to the various
places on the opposite shores of the harbour. Per-
haps the most interesting of these is Praiha Grande;
and the inhabitants from the city frequently resort
thither to enjoy the fresh air, and the retirement of
the country.
We spent a very pleasant day at Praiha Grande
and Braganza, and in rambling over the hills and
amongst the coffee and sugar plantations in the
neighbourhood. The orange gardens here are deli-
cious, and on the rocks beyond the Praiha Grande the
cactus grows to an enormous size. Beneath a shady
PRAIHA GRANDE AND ITS VICINITY.
267
avenue of trees along the water-side, the company
who arrive from Rio Janeiro may be seen seated at
tables in the open air, enjoying the sea-breeze, and
diverting themselves with cards or dice. And from a
ruined fort at the extremity of the bay, a fine view
is obtained of the surrounding harbour, with the ves-
sels going in and out, of the distant mountains behind
Rio Janeiro, and of that city itself upon the opposite
shore, with its churches and convents glittering in
the sunshine.
There are some lovely spots around Praiha Grande :
deep glens, shaded from the sun by palms and bana-
nas; dark lanes, along which the butterflies flit with
gaudy pinions, gemming the sultry air with their
beauty; and quiet nooks by the sea-shore, in secluded
bays where the cool green water dashes into snowy
surf in the twilight of overhanging caves. But the
most delightful of all are the little gurgling streams
that make music beneath the dense leaves and jungle
that hide them from sight: nothing can be ima-
gined more refreshing, on one of these midsummer
days in the Southern tropic, than to find a translu-
cent and brimming well, half revealed amongst the
foliage, and to drink a copious draught of the cooling
water as it descends through a piece of bamboo into
the cistern beneath.
After a long detention in Rio Janeiro-owing to
some disputes with the captain, which were at length
arranged by the consul to the satisfaction of the
passengers-we again put to sea in the middle of
1
268
"BEATING TIME."
ود
December, beating out of the harbour with a strong
sea-breeze. The Gavia mountain presents a very
remarkable appearance, when viewed from the sea,
resembling the profile of a man when reclining on
his back. It is commonly known as Lord Hood's
Nose.
Dec. 28th.-For the past fortnight we have had
strong winds from the N.N.E.; which is remarkable
weather, as we expected the S.E. trades shortly after
leaving Rio Janeiro. After making no better course,
by lying close to the wind for nine hundred miles,
than E. by S., the vessel was put about; and in a
couple of days' time we fell in with the S.E. trades,
which carried us across the line into 3° north lati-
tude.
Dec. 31st.-Off the island of Trinidad, in the South
Atlantic. Being the last night of the year, the sailors
beat the old year out and the new year in-a truly
barbarous and senseless mode of celebration. No
sooner had orders been given to strike eight-bells,
the hour of midnight, than a most furious serenade
commenced upon the forecastle deck: the whole of
the crew and the steerage passengers began thumping
and beating upon empty casks; knocking tin cans
and pots together; striking the bell, till it was almost
swung off its hinges; shouting, screaming, and hur-
rahing the din was perfectly deafening. Despite
this noisy tumult, the good old year rolled silently
away, with those that are past; and when the cheers
suddenly ceased, the murmuring surges sounded
"SPEAKING” THE FLORA.
269
their solemn music-a more fitting requiem for the
dying year.
Jan. 23rd.-Lat. 19° N. The sun, for several
evenings past, has set in unclouded glory: deep
golden yellow, pink, violet, and, lastly, bright azure,
all blended imperceptibly into each other, have
adorned the western sky; telling us that we are still
within the realms of the sun, and whispering of the
rainless shores of desert Africa, abreast of us; where
such a sky of glory meets the Arab's gaze nightly,
from year to year, till he looks and worships the
glorious luminary.
Jan. 29th.-Lat. 21° 35′ N.; long. 37° 30′ W.
Quantities of the gulf-weed are floating amongst the
waves, driven into long lines upon the surface of the
water by the action of the sea and wind.
Feb. 2nd.-Passed the Azores or Western Islands,
between Flores and Pico, with a strong westerly
breeze and hazy weather.
Feb. 8th.-We spoke the Flora, a large West India-
man, twenty-eight days out from Portsmouth, bound
for Jamaica; in long. 18° W.; lat. 44° N. She had
encountered very heavy weather, and her top-gallant-
masts were struck. A crowd of strange faces gazed
on us for the passing moment; and we gazed on
them again, looking at them as if they were some
strange phenomena, and regarding with wistful eyes
some fine joints of fresh meat that were hanging at
the stern of the vessel: they no doubt pitied us
when they saw our board with "160 days out"
N 3
270
LANDING AT GRAVESEND.
in
marked in chalk letters upon it. But the most novel
sight to us was, a lady—a real, live English lady—
on the poop-deck of the Flora, looking quite gay,
a red and yellow shawl. After a hasty interchange
of civilities, away steered the Flora for the islands of
the sun.
Feb. 11th.-A tremendous gale of wind set in
yesterday, from E.S.E., and has continued blowing
without any abatement. The vessel is laid-to, under
a close-reefed main-top-sail, and the wind still "dead
on end."
Feb. 17th. This morning at daybreak, the distant
hills of Ireland were in sight, near Bantry Bay. Last
night, although we had not sighted the coast, yet the
smell of turf-burning was clearly perceptible in the
air, as the easterly wind set off the land. At four
P.M., we spoke the Wanderer barque, from Gibraltar,
seventeen days out: from this vessel we fortunately
obtained a cask of beef and some biscuit; our pro-
visions being nearly exhausted, and ourselves having
been on short allowance, both of food and water, for
the past ten days. We also obtained English papers
as late as January 26th, and Gibraltar papers up to
the 31st ultimo.
On the 22nd, we arrived off Dover, and took a
pilot on board; and on the 23rd, at noon, I landed
at Gravesend.
APPENDIX.
NOTE 1.
ABORIGINAL CARVINGS, OR OUTLINE TRACINGS, UPON ROCKS.
AND HEADLANDS IN THE VICINITY OF PORT JACKSON.
(As yet explored.)
THESE are to be found on North Head, on South Reef Pro-
montory, on Middle Head, at Camp Cove, at Point Piper, at
Mossman's Bay, and at Lane Cove on Mr. Kirk's property.
The subjects represented are the human figure, the hiele-
man, or shield; kangaroos, birds, flying squirrels, black swans,
and various sorts of fish, some of them twenty-seven feet in
length.
In Lane Cove, in Middle Harbour, at George's Head, and
at Port Aiken, are carved heads; and at the latter place, parts
of the human body cut in intaglio. At Port Aiken and in
Middle Harbour they are found in caves, formed by projecting
masses of rock, called by the natives "Giber Gunyah;" i. e.
stone or rock house. Thus, a black fellow, on his first arrival
in Sydney, seeing a stone house exclaimed, "Ah! white
fellow too in giber gunyah!" The term is of eastern origin,
as appears from the derivation.
Giber (in Arabic), a hump on a camel's back; a
rock. Giber, altar, Gibraltar.
گن
Gunn (in Arabic), preserving; covering; shading
from the sun; a veil; court or middle of a house.
272
APPENDIX.
That these sculptures are of remote origin, is also corrobo-
rated by the fact that these carvings, or outline tracings, are
on promontories and peninsulas.
Promontories, islands, and peninsulas, high lands overlook-
ing the sea, were sacred in the far East and in Western
Europe. A chapel is erected on Cape Finisterre, the farthest
land then known; whence named Finis-terræ, or the land's
end. A chapel, dedicated to "St. Aldhelm," stood on the
summit of the high promontory, St. Alban's Head, well-known
to the homeward bound traveller.
Pan was worshipped by fishermen, who inhabited promon-
tories washed by the sea.
The Athenian maidens were
accustomed to leave propitiatory offerings to the gods, for a
good husband, on the east bank of the Ilissus, near the Sta-
dium, on the first evenings of a new moon. Byron and Hob-
house, when Galt informed them of this, remarked, that on the
promontory above that spot, it is recorded that a statue of
Venus formerly stood.-See Galt.
The natives of New South Wales have some superstitious
feelings relative to the moon, by which they count their time,
and an eclipse of the moon throws them all into an awful
state of consternation. It is also during the full of the moon
that they hold their dances or corrobbories.-See Coryban-
tes.
·
Relative to these tracings, or carvings, upon the surface
rocks of projecting headlands, their uses or intention are now
only legendary. The natives say, that "black fellow made
them long ago;" and, to convey an idea of remote antiquity,
they hold up their fingers and hands, elevate the face, shut
the eyes, and say Murrey-murrey-murrey-long time
ago"-shaking the head each time they pronounce the word
"murrey."
They agree in stating that the tribes did not reside upon
these spots, assigning as a reason-"Too much dibble-dibble
walk about;" for they greatly fear meeting the "dibble" or
some evil spirit in their rambles, and never leave their camp
at night. They state that these places were all sacred to the
priest, doctor, or conjurer-for the one is the other among
i
APPENDIX.
(6
273
these tribes. A man potent in spells and of great dread, is the
Ko-ra-gee-xεpepyos-Chiruga. The oldest person in the
Sydney tribe, is the widow of the chief who ruled when the
first fleet arrived, and whose name was Bungaree;" thence
dignified as (6
King Bungaree." He lived, poor fellow, for
some years, and saw the kangaroos and opossums chased from
his domains; but he gloried in a cocked hat, excelled in a
bow, knew a fresh arrival instinctively, and welcomed him to
"his country" with all the form of a master of the ceremonies,
and concluded by begging a dump (a small silver coin then
current) to drink the stranger's health. His queen has sur-
vived her glories, and she now totters about, very aged and
decrepit, known as "Old Gooseberry;" but her memory is
still good.
In her statements she says she was no eye-witness-" Bel
I see it, my father tell me"-so that all is a matter of legend
relating to these carvings.
Though the tribes did not reside on those places, I am
informed that they used to have mystic dances* or festivals
on this Ko-ra-jee land, and that they used to fight as well as
dance. Poor old "Gooseberry" said in a mysterious tone,
drag gin,” which means, run off with the women. It is
customary with the natives to take the women of another
tribe by force; stunning them, and then actually dragging
them into the bush. One chattering native added very seri-
ously, "Pi, fellow,"+ "Kill fellow ;" but a look of anger from
the more cautious "Gooseberry" prevented further informa-
tion as to human sacrifices.
The early mysteries of the Egyptians, the Jews, the Greeks,
and even the Romans, were of a libidinous though less
ferocious character. The custom of the Roman youth running
naked, and chasing women with thongs of leather, is analo-
gous to the similar early practice of "dragging the gins."
The g is pronounced hard by the natives-yev.
* See the ancient dances of the Corybantes. They were a sort of
Cory-beri (corrobbory) perhaps.
† “Pi, fellow,” “pi-movden," in Persian is to slay or kill
پیموون
.
*
274
APPENDIX.
The orgies which, as legends tell, were once celebrated on
the promontories of Port Jackson, also partake of the cha-
racter of the Buddha mysteries, the Singam of the East, and
the Priapus worship of the West.
One rock or hill at Spring Cove is called "Ky-hy-Giber,"
the rock or hill of lewdness. There is no reason to doubt the
truth of what the fathers have told their children, or their
children (now aged people) have told to us.
I have copied the rude outlines of these primitive engrav-
ings as they now exist, and noted down the legends of the
natives; but the question has yet to be answered, Who
introduced these ceremonies, and chose rocks, and promon-
tories, and caves—as in the old world they have been known
to exist thousands of years ago
sacred to Priests or
Ko-ra-jee?
And who taught these savages to call what we suppose
they never saw, and assuredly never constructed, viz., a
vessel, by the same name now in use in India, and in the
Celtic dialect of the Welsh, "Não," a ship?
ناو
Who taught them the use of the Boomerang, which is
depicted in the tombs of Egypt, and called by Wilkinson
the Throw-stick?
Are not these all evidences of the Asiatic origin of this
people? But by what event or means, or at what period,
New Holland was peopled by this now degenerate race,
still remains clouded in obscurity; the people themselves,
unlike the New Zealanders, having no legends whatever of
their former origin.
DESCRIPTION OF ABORIGINAL CARVINGS.
Plate I.
Figs. 1 and 2.-Representations of the human figure carved
on a flat rock at the extremity of Point Piper, on the property
of D. Cooper, Esq. The attitudes are those of the corrobbory
at the present day. Length of large figure, 5 feet; small
figure, 3 feet.
ABORIGINAL CARVINGS.
4
3
2
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George French. Angas, äci et lith
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APPENDIX.
275
Figs. 3, 4, and 5.—A group carved upon a flat rock at Camp
Cove. Length of large figure, 5 feet 6 inches. Cory beri, or
invocation, or perhaps both? So in other representations of
the human figure—
Duplices palmas ad sidera tendens."
Near the figure (No. 5) is a heart-shaped object.
Fig. 6.-A similar outline of the human form in the usual
attitude, at Middle Head.
Fig. 7.-Flying squirrel, at Point Piper. Length, 18 inch.
Fig. 8.-A fish, probably a shark, at Middle Head. Length,
18 feet.
Fig. 9.-A whale at Point Piper. Length, 27 feet. The
shield and small fish are carved upon it in the attitudes
represented in the Plate.
Fig. 10.-Black swan. Two feet in length. Also at Point
Piper.
Fig. 11. A kangaroo. Nearly 9 feet in length. At Point
Piper.
Fig. 12.-Probably a parrot. One foot.
Fig. 13.-Heart-shaped figure, not unlike the cockle that
forms part of the food of the natives. Length of the largest
one, 10 inches.
Plate II.
Fig. 1.-At Point Piper. Six feet in length.
Fig. 2.—A fish at Point Piper. Length, 6 feet.
Fig. 3.-An animal, 6 feet 2 inches in length. At South
Reef Promontory.
Fig. 4.-A fish, 12 feet long. At Middle Head.
Fig. 5.-The Mogo or stone axe.
Fig. 6.-The Hieleman or shield.
South Reef Promontory.
Precisely similar to that
in use at the present day amongst the people about Port
Stephen, and many places along the coast.
Fig. 7.—Another shield. At Woodford, on the estate of
Mr. Kirk, at Lane Cove. Two feet 4 inches.
Fig. 8.—A fish. Two feet in length. Also at Lane Cove.
Fig. 9.—The Boomerang. One foot 7 inches. Lane Cove.
276
APPENDIX,
A representation of the boomerang is found in the tombs at
Thebes. -See Wilkinson. There are also at Lane Cove,
besides kangaroos, shields the same as those here repre-
sented, and numerous carvings of small fish, but no large
ones.
Fig. 10.-Two fishes. Five feet in length. At Middle
Head.
Fig. 11.-A human figure. At Lane Cove. Three feet
2 inches.
Fig. 12. Another figure. At same place. Four feet
10 inches.
Fig. 13.—A kangaroo. Eight feet long. At South Reef
Promontory.
Fig. 14.—A small fish. At Point Piper. One foot.
Fig. 15.
do.
do.
do.
Fig. 16.-A fish, 27 feet in length; and a smaller one,
3 feet in length. At Middle Head.
Fig. 17-At Point Piper. Six feet in length.
NOTE 2.
CAVES OR GUNYAHS.
Porphyry tells us, that in Arcadia was a cave sacred to Pan
and the moon.
Mithratic Caves. Wherever the rites of the ancient
Cabiri prevailed, we always find them in some manner or
other connected with caverns; and the most mysterious rites
of the Samothracian Cabiri were performed within the dark
recesses of the cave Zerinthus.-See Faber on the Cimbri.
The Cabiric cavern was symbolical of the Hades of the
Epoptæ, or the vast central cavity of the earth. The Noëtic
gods, worshipped within these sacred caverns, were termed
Patari, which appellation is derived from Patar, to dismiss or
open, and alludes to the egress of the Noachide from the
ark.
The carvings of the natives along the east coast of New
South Wales, are all near the water, and probably may have
་
APPENDIX.
277
had some connection with water worship. Demeter and Kora
were worshipped at the Charonian cavern mentioned by
Strabo.-Strabo, 1. 12, p. 869.
The oracular shrine of Apollo was held in a mighty chasm
in a hill side, known as the Delphic Oracle.
Amongst the Persians, most of their temples were caverns
in rocks; either formed by nature or artificially produced.
In Chusistan there are, at this day, many remains of such
sacred caverns, and in the front of them are representations
of various characters.
Painted caverns occur in sandstone rock, on the north-west
coast of Australia; many of which were discovered by Capt.
Grey, during his expeditions along that coast in 1838. The
figures were principally men and kangaroos; the human
figures, like those carved on the rocks at Point Piper, being
all destitute of mouths.
Hands in Caves.—In his narrative of the journey along the
north-west coast of Australia, Capt. Grey remarks,-"Another
very striking piece of art was exhibited in the little gloomy
cavities situated at the back of the main cavern. In these
instances some rock at the sides of the cavity had been selected,
and the stamp of a hand and arm by some means transferred
to it, this outline of the hand and arm was then painted
black, and the rock around it white, so that on entering that
part of the cave, it appeared as if a human hand and arm were
projecting through some crevice admitting light.—Grey, vol. i.
p. 204.
Intaglio hands are formed on rocks in various parts of the
east coast of New South Wales, as at Port Aiken, and also
near Lake Macquarrie.
NOTE 3.
BOOMERANG.
Sir Gardner Wilkinson mentions this instrument as occur-
ring in the tombs at Thebes, in Upper Egypt. It is also
distinctly delineated in one of the fresco paintings illustra-
VOL. II.
Q
278
APPENDIX.
tive of the manners and customs of the ancient Egyptians,
now in the British Museum, where a figure is represented in
the act of flinging a boomerang or "throw-stick" at a number
of ducks and aquatic fowl, as they are in the act of escaping
from amongst the papyrus rushes.
NOTE 4.
CORROBORRY.
The dances or corrobories (quasi Corybantes) have some
reference to mystic rites; and are usually held at night, and
by moonlight. "The earliest people in the north, the Celts,
had no fixed habitation, knew not how to read, learned
hymns or songs by heart, sang and danced to music, holding
their meetings by moonlight, and had a solemn annual
meeting."-Fasbroke, p. 527.
There were sacred hills in Persia, where, as people passed
by, there were heard shouts as of a multitude of people; also
hymns and exultations, and other uncommon noises. These
sounds proceeded from the priests at their midnight worship,
whose voices were reverberated by the mountains. — See
Bryant.
It seems probable that the corrobory dances are remains
of this midnight and noisy worship, and were originally
derived from these religious ceremonies; although the natives
have no such meaning attached to them at the present day.
Cannibalism.-"The horrible custom of eating their own
dead was common to the ancient Irish, and the Massagetæ,
a Scythian nation.-See Archælogia, vol. v. p. 276. Also
Herod. i. 216.
NOTE 5.
MEM. RELATIVE TO WORDS USED BY THE SYDNEY TRIBE.
Ship. Sydney tribe, Naowi. Welsh, Não. Greek, vavs.
Latin, Navis. Persian, Nao.
APFENDIX.
279
غبر
A stone-a rock. Sydney tribe, Keba or Giber. Arabic,
or
گبر
-so Gibraltar.
To go.
Sydney tribe, Yan. Hindostanee, Jan-na. Latin,
An-dare. Scotticé, Gang.
اب
Water. Sydney tribe, Aba. Persian, Ab, Latin,
Aqua.
Strike. Sydney tribe, Mah. So when spearing fish, one
who sees the fish near the spear will call out "Strike, strike,
now," "Mah, Mah." Hindostanee, imperative from Mahna,
to strike.
Woman. Sydney tribe, Gin (g pronounced hard). Greek,
γιν ομαι γον
A Man. Sydney tribe, Joen.
Latin, Juven-is.
Where?
Persian,
Persian,
.Juvan بوان Persian
لوي
Koo.
Where are you?
Koo-i. The native call in the bush.
A cave. Sydney tribe, Gunyah. Arabic,
ing from the shade.
گسن
a cover-
A village or settlement in Hindostanee is “ Gong." Thus,
Mitta-gong, sweet or delightful village, is a common name for
places in the Deccan : so, "Mitta-gong," in Australia,
Woollon-gong, and other places ending in "gong."
Per-
To make marks, or to write, Sydney tribe, Calama.
sian, kullum. Hindostanee, Callam. Greek, kaλaµos, a reed,
a pen. Latin, Calamus.
Beautiful. Sydney tribe, Kalia.
Sun. Sydney tribe, "Noah."
Greek kaλos, kada, kaλov.
See Faber, or Bryant, who
state that the sun was so called in the most ancient times.
To kill. Sydney tribe, Pi.
Persian, I think, Pi-mocden,
to kill
.
پیموون
280.
APPENDIX.
NOTE 6.
BURIAL.
Burial in a sitting posture. The Carib Indians bury in a
sitting position.-Hodgson, vol. i. p. 260.
Burials under tumuli are common in every part of the
northern world. So here at the Clarence river.
The tombs of the ancients were kept in repair. Games
were instituted by Æneas at the tomb of his father Anchises.
A woman at the Clarence river neglected to trim and weed.
the tumulus of her late husband, and she was put to death in
consequence of her neglect.
The blacks at Clarence river mark the burial-place by
placing stones in a circle, and a large upright slab in the
centre, even to the present day. They give no other reason
for this than that it "belong to black fellow;" "black fellow
make it so."
Some tribes throw the corpse into the branches of a tree for
the birds to devour it. So the Persians, at the present time,
expose their dead upon iron gratings, surrounded by an en-
closed wall, but open to the skies, and birds feed upon the
corpses.
Anciently the Sydney tribe burned their aged dead, but the
young ones they buried. The three spots for burning were
three bays, now known as Rose Bay, Chowder Bay, and
Shell Cove.
Weapons are buried here with the dead, as in Tartary;
also among the American Indians, and the early British.
Cæsar speaks of this custom.
At Clarence river, when an old man is sick, he lets himself
down into a hollow tree to perish.
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By G. P. R. JAMES, Esq. A new edition, in demy 8vo., price 12s. cloth.
SMITH, ELDER AND CO„, CORNHILL.
THE CHURCH AND DISSENT.
GLENDEARG COTTAGE.
3
A TALE CONCERNING CHURCH PRINCIPLES. By MISS CHRISTMAS.
With a Preface by the Rev. HENRY CHRISTMAS, M.A., F.R.S., F.S.A.
One vol. fcap. 8vo., price 38.
"A tale as pleasing in its unstudied simplicity as in the correct views which it
displays of the principles of the Church.”—British Churchman.
REV. H. MACKENZIE'S COMMENTARY.
COMMENTARY ON THE HOLY GOSPELS,
Arranged according to the TABLE OF LESSONS FOR DAILY SERVICE ;
designed for Family Reading. By the Rev. HENRY MACKENZIE, M.A.,
of Pembroke College, Oxford; Incumbent of Great Yarmouth. To be
completed in Four Quarterly Parts, price 18. 3d. each. Part I. appeared
on April 1st. Part II. on 1st July.
LIFE IN NORTH WALES.
LLEWELYN'S HEIR;
સ્પંદ
Or, NORTH WALES; its MANNERS, CUSTOMS, and SUPERSTITIONS
during the last Century, illustrated by a Story founded on Facts. In
3 vols. post 8vo., price 17. 11s. 6d.
It is a real work, with more material and original knowledge than half the manu-
factured novels that appear in these days.."-Spectator.
"We can most cordially recommend it as a series of Sketches of North Wales well
worthy of perusal; so various and so curious as to be as welcome to the library of the
antiquary and portfolio of the artist as to the leisure hour of the novel reader.”—Literary
Gazette.
SCOTTISH LYRICS.
THE STRATHMORE MELODIST :
Being a COLLECTION OF ORIGINAL POEMS AND SONGS.
JOHN NIVEN. Fcap. 8vo., price 3s.
MANAGEMENT OF RAILWAYS.
By
THE RATIONALE OF RAILWAY ADMINISTRATION.
With a view to the greatest possible amount of ACCOMMODATION,
CHEAPNESS, and SAFETY. BY THORNTON HUNT. In 8vo., price 2s. 6d.
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arrangement; tersely, yet pleasantly written."-Spectator.
RAILWAY SPECULATION.
THE LIABILITIES INCURRED BY THE PROJECTORS,
MANAGERS, & SHAREHOLDERS OF RAILWAY
And other JOINT STOCK COMPANIES CONSIDERED; and also the
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"Projectors, and provisional and managing committee-men will find matter of
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intimation of the responsibility incurred by the sale of Letters of Allotment, and Banker's
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registered. It is, in short, a very useful and timely publication."-Examiner.
4
WORKS PUBLISHED BY.
THE JESUITS IN ENGLAND.
THE NOVITIATE :
Or, A YEAR AMONG THE ENGLISH JESUITS: a Personal Narrative.
With an Essay on the Constitutions, the Confessional Morality, and
History of the Jesuits. By ANDREW STEINMETZ. In one vol. post
8vo. price 10s. 6d. bound in cloth.
"This is a remarkable book-a revealer of secrets, and full of materials for thought.
It is written with every appearance of strict and honourable truthfulness. It
describes, with a welcome minuteness, the daily, nightly, hourly occupations of the
Jesuit Novitiates at Stonyhurst, their religious exercises and manners, in private and
together; and depicts, with considerable acuteness and power, the conflicts of an intelli-
gent, susceptible, honest-purposed spirit, while passing through such a process. If our
readers should be disposed to possess themselves of this volume, it will be their own
fault if the reading of it be profitless."-British Quarterly Review.
"This is as singular a book of its kind as has appeared since Blanco White's 'Letters
of Doblado,' with the advantage of dealing with the Jesuits in England instead of Popery
in Spain.
It will be found a very curious work."-Spectator.
*
•
•
•
•
•
"If it be desirable to know what is that mode of training by which the Jesuit
system prepares its novices for their duties, this is the book to inform us, for it is a
chronicle of actual experience.
The work of Mr. Steinmetz is throughout marked
by great fairness, ..he neither conceals nor exaggerates: a spirit of candour pervades
the whole narrative.
Could we know the experience of other novices, we should
find that all have undergone, with more or less of intensity, the process so vividly described
in this volume.
It is written in an extremely animated style. The author's
thoughts are original, and the passages relating to his personal history and feelings are
agreeably introduced, and add to the interest of his narrative. It is a sufficient proof of
his accuracy that, though the Jesuits have many pens in this country, not one has been
hardy enough to impugn a sentence of his statements."-Britannia.
•
"Mr. Steinmetz writes a most singular and interesting account of the Jesuit semi-
nary, and his way of life there.
He seems to be a perfectly honest and credible
informer, and his testimony may serve to enlighten many a young devotional aspirant
who is meditating submission' to Rome, and the chain and scourge systems. There is
nothing in the least resembling invective in the volume.”—Morning Chronicle
6
"At a time when Jesuitism seems to be rising once more, any work on this subject
comes very opportunely. How the writer became a member of this mysterious body
This
gives a key to the character of the man himself and the spirit of his book.
narrative is well written, and as interesting as we expected."-Weekly Chronicle.
"An unvarnished account of the Jesuits' College at Stonyhurst, its discipline and
routine of observances and customs,―of these we have the most minute details, and the
whole is a faithful picture of a remarkable condition of life.
From this curious
book you may form some idea of the Jesuits and their course of proceeding."-Literary
Gazette.
"This is a curious volume, of no little interest and eloquence, written by a scholar
and an enthusiast.”—Atlas.
•
"There is internal evidence that this is a genuine narrative, and a very singular
one it is; full of very curious and striking matter. The Essay on the Constitutions,
Confessional Morality, and History of the Jesuits,' will amply reward the task of
perusal." Globe.

*
•
"The work has all the interest of a romance, and yet we do not believe that any
portion of it is fictitious. The author writes well, and evinces a strong and disciplined
mind. The picture he draws of Jesuitism is a fearful one. The reader will find abundant
matter for grave consideration in this most singular and striking volume."-John Bull.
•
"A more remarkable work it has seldom been our fortune to peruse. We hear and
read much of the Quietism and Passive obedience inculcated amongst the Jesuit body;
but here we become personal spectators of these principles in action.
Mr. Stein-
metz appears to be a most remarkable character. He may be received as an unbiassed
witness. We repeat it, Mr. Steinmetz's book is most valuable; earnest and truthful
in its tone, and extremely interesting in its detail."-New Quarterly Review.
"The volume presents a true and valuable picture of Jesuit education in England,
and on that ground every Protestant will find the volume worthy of an attentive
perusal."-British Churchman.
SMITH, ELDER AND CO., CORNHILL.
5
FIRST SERIES OF TALES OF THE COLONIES.
TALES OF THE COLONIES; OR, THE ADVENTURES
OF AN EMIGRANT.
By CHARLES ROWCROFT, Esq., a late Colonial Magistrate. The Fourth
Edition. In foolscap 8vo., price 6s. cloth. This work was originally
published in 3 vols. post 8vo. at 17. 11s. 6d., in which size two large
editions have been sold.
"Tales of the Colonies' is an able and interesting book. The author has the first
great requisite in fiction-a knowledge of the life he undertakes to describe; and his
matter is solid and real."-Spectator.
"This is a book, as distinguished from one of the bundles of waste paper in three
divisions, calling themselves 'novels.'"-Athenæum.
"The narration has a deep and exciting interest. No mere romance, no mere
fiction, however skilfully imagined or powerfully executed, can surpass it. The work to
which it bears the nearest similitude is Robinson Crusoe, and it is scarcely, if at all
inferior to that extraordinary history."—John Bull.
"Since the time of Robinson Crusoe, literature has produced nothing like these
'Tales of the Colonies.' "-Metropolitan Magazine.
(6
•
Romantic literature does not supply instances of wonderful escape more
marvellous.
The book is manifestly a mixture of fact and fiction, yet it gives, we
have every reason to believe, a true picture of a settler's life in that country; and is
thickly interspersed with genuine and useful information."
Chambers's Edinburgh Journal.
"The contents of the first volume surpass in interest many of the novels of Sir
Walter Scott."-Westminster Review.
"An exceedingly lively and interesting narrative, which affords a more striking view
of the habits of emigrant colonial life than all the regular treatises, statistical returns, and
even exploratory tours which we have read.
It combines the fidelity of truth with
•
the spirit of a romance, and has altogether so much of De Foe in its character and com-
position, that whilst we run we learn, and, led along by the variety of the incidents,
become real ideal settlers in Van Diemen's Land."-Literary Gazette.
SECOND SERIES OF TALES OF THE COLONIES.
THE BUSHRANGER OF VAN DIEMEN'S LAND.
By C. ROWCROFT, Esq., Author of "Tales of the Colonies." In 3 vols.
post 8vo. price 17. 11s. 6d.
"These volumes have the same qualities that gained so much popularity for the
Author's previous work 'Tales of the Colonies.' No one has depicted colonial life, as
manifested in the settlements of Australia, with so much vigour and truth as Mr. Rowcroft.
He rather seems to be a narrator of actual occurrences than an inventor of imaginary ones.
His characters, his manners, and his scenes are all real. He has been compared to De
Foe, and the comparison is just.”—Britannia.
"These volumes form a second series of 'Tales of the Colonies,' and the pages
are marked by the same vigorous and graphic pen which procured such celebrity for the
first series. The interest, generally well sustained throughout, is occasionally of the most
absorbing and thrilling kind. Altogether, there is a freshness about these volumes which
brings them out in strong contrast to the vapid productions with which the press is
teeming.". -Globe.
"The story contains all the merits of the Tales of the Colonies' as regards style;
being simple and Crusoite, if we might use the term, in its narrative. Mr. Rowcroft
possesses invention to an extraordinary degree, in the manner in which he manages
the escapes of the bushranger,-and he produces, by the simplest incidents, most
interesting scenes ;-pictures of nature and of a society totally different from anything to
be found elsewhere."-Weekly Chronicle.
FANNY THE LITTLE MILLINER; OR, THE RICH AND
THE POOR.
By CHARLES ROWCROFT, Esq. In one vol. 8vo., handsomely bound in
cloth gilt, with Plates, price 148.-The twelve parts may be had
separately, price 18. each, sewed.
6
WORKS PUBLISHED BY
MR. JAMES'S RECENT NOVELS.
THE STEP-MOTHER.
By G. P. R. JAMES, Esq. In 3 vols. post 8vo., price 17. 11s. 6d.—Just
published.
Lately published by the same Author,
ARRAH NEIL; OR, TIMES OF OLD. Three vols. post
Svo., price 17. 11s. 6d.
THE SMUGGLER, a Novel. Three vols., price 17. 11s. 6d.
NEW & ILLUSTRATED EDITION OF MR. JAMES'S WORKS.
THE WORKS OF G. P. R. JAMES, ESQ.
Now publishing in Quarterly Volumes, medium 8vo. cloth, with engraved
Frontispieces, each volume containing a complete novel, price 8s.
This handsome series of Mr. James's Works has been carefully revised
by the Author; and is "got up in that superior style, and agreeable size
of type, which renders it fit for every age and every library.”
Contents:-Vol. 1. THE GIPSY.
2. MARY of Burgundy.
3. THE HUGUENOTS.
4. ONE IN A THOUSAND.
Vol. 5. PHILIP AUGUStus.
6. HENRY OF GUISE.
7. MORLEY ERNSTEIN.
8. THE ROBBER.
Vol. 9, containing DARNLEY; or, THE FIELD OF CLOTH OF GOLD,
on the 1st of July.
Vol. 10, containing CORSE DE LEON, on the 1st of October.
"Messrs. Smith, Elder and Co., of Cornhill, have just published the first volume of a
New Edition of the Works of this gentleman, which has the advantage of the latest re-
visions and corrections of the author. The writings of James are so well known to the
readers of fiction, that it is unnecessary to call their attention to them, or to say anything
which previous criticism may have left unsaid. The present edition is well got up, the
type is clear, sharp, and legible, and the size of the volume convenient for the reader, and
appropriate for the shelves of a bookcase. The book, as it is, will form a pleasing *
addition to the collections of readers of modern literature, of the class to which it
belongs."-Times.
"We are glad to see our prognostication respecting the New Edition of Mr. James's
Works, more than fulfilled by the rapid absorption of a very large first edition, and a
second in the course of speedy disappearance. This is as it should be, with a writer
whose vraisemblance is always so perfect; and even what he invents so like truth, that
we can never fancy we are reading fiction: nor, indeed, are we, in the historical portions of
his publications,—and these form the far greater division,-which are all drawn from dili-
gent research, deep study, and elaborate comparison."-Literary Gazette.
"Mr. James is a pure and pleasing writer, and we are glad to see that his Works are now
to be thrown into a handy, bandsome, and accessible shape."-Scotsman,
"This is a most admirable edition of the Works of this popular author, convenient in
size, and handsome in appearance. It, moreover, possesses the advantage of being re-
vised and corrected by the author,-no small recommendations, since, the generality of
Mr. James's Works being connected with history, a careful perusal of his productions
increases their value, and renders them a source of amusement, through the medium of
instruction."-Atlas.
"We are glad to perceive that such volumes are being published at a price which will
place them within the reach of the middle classes, and we shall find, as the result of this
movement, that tradesmen and others will furnish their book-shelves with good and select
works, instead of subscribing to circulating libraries. We learn it is the publishers'
intention to continue the volumes until all the author's works are republished in this
style."-Plymouth Herald.
SMITH, ELDER AND CO., CORNHILL.
LEIGH HUNT'S SELECTIONS OF POETRY.
IMAGINATION AND FANCY;
蒸
​7
Or, SELECTIONS from the ENGLISH POETS, illustrative of those First
Requisites of their Art, with Markings of the best Passages, Critical
Notices of the Writers, and an Essay in Answer to the Question," WHAT
IS POETRY?" By LEIGH HUNT. Third Edition. In post 8vo. price
10s. 6d. handsomely bound in a new kind of cloth, gilt; or 9s. boards.
"This volume is handsomely printed, and beautifully bound in a new style of ex-
quisite delicacy and richness. In external beauty 'Imagination and Fancy' equals any
gift-books that have appeared; and it will form a more enduring memorial than any
other volume that might be selected as a gift for the coming season.”—Spectator.
"This is a Christmas gift, worth half a dozen of the Annuals put together, and at
half the cost of one of them. We have often wished for such a book, and in our aspi-
ration, the name of Leigh Hunt has ever presented itself as that of the man above all
others qualified to do justice to so charming a subject."-Morning Chronicle.
"The volume is, we trust, the precursor of many more, which will complete and do
justice to the plan. The series so completed would be the best elegant extracts' in the
language."-Examiner.
"This is a charming volume, both externally and internally it is most attractive."-
Atlas.
"It is a book that every one who has a taste must have, and every one who has not
should have in order to acquire one."-Jerrold's Magazine.
"This book is tastefully got up, and we should think better of the house where we
saw a well read copy of it lying about.”—Tait's Magazine.
"These illustrations of Imagination and Fancy are distinguished by great critical
sagacity, and a remarkable appreciation of those qualities."-Herald.
"This elegant volume contains the most exquisite passages of the best English
Poets, selected and commented upon by Leigh Hunt, and for this task there is, in our
opinion, no author living so well qualified."-Indian News.
The Second Volume of this series, "WIT AND HUMOUR,” is
in the press, uniform with "Imagination and Fancy."
MRS. ELLIS'S MORAL FICTIONS.
PICTURES OF PRIVATE LIFE.
By MRS. ELLIS, Author of the "Women of England," &c. &c. &c.
Each Volume is complete in itself, aud may be purchased separately.
In 3 vols. feap. 8vo. beautifully illustrated, price 7s. 6d. each, in a
handsome and uniform cloth binding, or 10s. 6d. morocco. Contents:-
Vol. I. " OBSERVATIONS ON FICTITIOUS NARRATIVE," "THE HALL
AND THE COTTAGE," "ELLEN ESKDALE," "THE CURATE'S
WIDOW," and "MARRIAGE AS IT MAY BE."
""
Vol. II. "MISANTHROPY," and "THE PAINS OF PLEASING."
Vol. III. "PRETENSION; or, the FALLACIES OF FEMALE EDUCATION."
"I could give abundant evidence, gratuitously offered to the writer, that these
simple stories were not sent forth to the world without some degree of adaptation to
its wants and its condition.”—Author's Introduction.
WAR WITH THE SIKHS.
THE PUNJAUB:
Being a brief account of the Country of the Sikhs, its Extent, History,
Commerce, productions, Government, Manufactures, Laws, Religion, &c.
By LIEUT.-COL. STEINBACH, late of the Lahore Service. A new
edition, revised, with additions, including an account of the recent events
in the Punjaub. In post 8vo. price 5s. cloth, with Map. The Map may
be had separately, price ls. coloured, and 1s. 6d. in case.
"There is much information in this volume, condensed into brief space, about a
people to whom late occurrences have given a common interest."-Examiner.
您
​&
8
WORKS PUBLISHED BY
THE HAND-BOOK OF USEFUL AND ORNAMENTAL
AMUSEMENTS AND ACCOMPLISHMENTS :
Including Artificial Flower-Making, Engraving, Etching, Painting in all
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"A prettier and more useful present could scarcely be selected for an ingenious
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Any lady desirous of filling up her leisure hours by following the occupations
described will be able to do so without the aid of any other instruction.
Weekly Chronicle.
THE DUTIES OF JUDGE ADVOCATES,
Compiled from HER MAJESTY's and the HON. EAST INDIA COM-
PANY'S MILITARY REGULATIONS, and from the Works of various
Writers on Military Law. By Captain R. M. HUGHES, 12th Regiment
Bombay Army; Deputy Judge-Advocate General, Scinde Field Force.
In one vol. post 8vo., price 7s. cloth.
"Captain Hughes's little volume on this important subject will well supply the
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"A professional vade-mecum, relating to most important duties, and executed in the
ablest manner. We consider this, the only complete separate treatise on the subject, to
be one of great value, and deserving the study of every British officer."-Lit. Gazette.
"This book is a digest as well as a compilation, and may be emphatically called
"The Hand-Book of Military Justice.""-Atlas.
“We recommend the work to every British officer.”—Army and Navy Register.
THE NOTE-BOOK OF A NATURALIST.
By E. P. THOMPSON. Post 8vo., price 9s. cloth.
"The author of this modestly-styled 'Note-Book' not only possesses and communi-
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We rely on the quotations to support our opinion of
the very agreeable and various character of this volume."-Literary Gazette.
"In all that relates to original observation the Note-Book of a Naturalist' is
agreeable, interesting, and fresh.
The more original and numerous passages may
vie with the observations of Jesse. In fact, there is a considerable resemblance between
the two authors. Anecdote is substantially the character of the better part.”—Spectator.
FINANCE AND COLONIES
By PUBLIUS. In royal 8vo., price 4s. 6d. cloth.
PRYINGS OF A POSTMAN.
In one vol. post 8vo., price 78. 6d.
SMITH, ELDER AND CO., CORNHILL.
THE LIGHT OF MENTAL SCIENCE;
9
Being an ESSAY on MORAL TRAINING. By Mrs. LOUDON, Authoress
of "First Love," ""Dilemmas of Pride," &c. &c. In one vol. fcap. 8vo.,
price 38. cloth.
"One of the most philosophical books we have seen for a long time.”—Observer.
SCENES IN THE LIFE OF A SOLDIER OF FORTUNE.
By a MEMBER OF THE IMPERIAL GUARDS. In 12mo., price 5s.
"This tale has a strange personal history. It purports to be the autobiography of
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in life, when become a teacher, told his story to an English traveller, his pupil, who has
here set it down."-Tait's Magazine.
COMMENTARY ON THE HINDU
THE HINDU SYSTEM OF
SYSTEM OF
MEDICINE.
By T. A. WISE, M.D., Member of the Royal College of Surgeons, and
of the Royal Medical and Chirurgical Society, Corresponding Member of
the Zoological Society of London, and of the Philomathic Society of
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Miscellaneous.
A NEW SPIRIT OF THE AGE.
Containing Critical Essays, and Biographical Sketches of Literary and
other Eminent Characters of the Present Time. Edited by R. H.
HORNE, Esq., Author of " Orion," "Gregory the Seventh," &c. &c.
These volumes are illustrated with Engravings on steel, from new and
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TALFOURD, BROWNING, SOUTHWOOD SMITH, and Miss MARTINEAU.
Second Edition, Revised by the Editor, with “ Introductory Comments."
In 2 vols. post 8vo., price 24s. cloth.
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much to the purpose) have the satisfaction of having produced a book that people will be
inclined, as the phrase is, to run after.'"-Morning Herald, March 25, 1844.
CC
As we have said before, Mr. Horne's admirations appear to us to be well placed
and his sympathies generous and noble.”—Morning Chronicle.
OUR ACTRESSES;
Or, GLANCES AT STAGE FAVOURITES, PAST and PRESENt.
By Mrs. C. BARON WILSON, Authoress of the "Life of the Duchess of
St. Albans," "Memoirs of Monk Lewis," &c. &c. In 2 vols. post 8vo.,
illustrated with numerous Engravings on Steel, from new and original
Portraits, price 248. cloth.
"Handsome volumes, adorned with several portraits, and the biographies are full of
amusing anecdotes."-Atlas.
"So attractive are the stage and its denizens that considerable amusement will be
derived from the perusal of these pages."-Literary Gazette.
10
WORKS PUBLISHED BY
CHRISTMAS FESTIVITIES: TALES, SKETCHES, AND
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With BEAUTIES OF THE MODERN DRAMA, in Four Specimens. By
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THE WINE-MERCHANT'S MANUAL.
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A COMPREHENSIVE HISTORY OF THE WOOLLEN
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From the carliest Records to the present Period, comprising the Woollen
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“Mr. Bischoff's work will be found valuable to all persons interested in the subject.”
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consideration of all those interested in the subjects of which they treat.”—Times.
SMITH, ELDER AND CO., CORNHILL.
11
A COMPREHENSIVE HISTORY OF THE IRON TRADE
THROUGHOUT THE WORLD, from the earliest Records to the
present Time. With an Appendix, containing Official Tables, and other
public Documents. By HARKY SCRIVENOR, Esq., Blaenavon. In
one vol. demy 8vo., price 15s. cloth.
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THE BRITISH MERCHANT'S ASSISTANT.
Containing :-Part I. Tables of Simple Interest at 3, 3, 4, 4½, and
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I.
THE ZOOLOGY OF THE VOYAGE OF H. M.S. SULPHUR,
Under the Command of Captain SIR EDWARD Belcher, R.N., C.B.,
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THE ONLY COMPLETE AND UNIFORM EDITION OF THE WORKS OF
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THE LIFE AND COLLECTED WORKS OF SIR
HUMPHRY DAVY, BART.
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Vol. I.-The Life of Sir H. Davy, with a Portrait.
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Vol. II.-The Whole of Sir H. Davy's Early Miscellaneous
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DAVY embraces the WHOLE OF HIS WORKS during the space of thirty years
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B
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}
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↓
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26
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"9
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Scottish Guardian.
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A
30
WORKS PUBLISHED BY
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THE BYRON GALLERY:
A Series of thirty-six Historical Embellishments, illustrating the Poetical
Works of LORD BYRON; beautifully engraved from Original Drawings
and Paintings by Sir Thomas Lawrence, P.R.A., H. Howard, R.A.,
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arts are so admirably combined."-Imperial Magazine.
SMITH, ELDER AND CO., CORNHILL.
STANFIELD'S COAST SCENERY:
31
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ARIEL. Designed by E. T. PARRIS, finely engraved in line by F. BACon.
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THE SMUGGLER'S ESCAPE. Painted by H. W. HARVEY.
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from a scene in Mr. James's Novel "The Smuggler."
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animated by characteristic groups of natives, &c. The plate is published under the
auspices of the Superintendent and principal residents of Melbourne.
VIEWS IN CALCUTTA. By JAMES B. FRASER, Esq. Engraved in
Price 10s. 6d.
Aquatint, and beautifully coloured from nature.
These Views embrace the principal edifices of Calcutta, and represent the streets,
squares, promenades, and suburbs of this splendid city, filled with the motley groups of
Europeans and Natives; the river and shipping being also shown under atmospheric
effects characteristic of the climate and country.
VIEWS OF SETTLEMENTS IN NEW ZEALAND :—
VIEW OF WELLINGTON, NEW ZEALAND. Plain 3s., coloured 5s.
VIEW OF LAMBION HARBOUR, NEW ZEALAND. Plain 3s.,
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VIEW OF NEW PLYMOUTH, NEW ZEALAND.
coloured 5s.
VIEW OF MOUNT EGMONT, NEW ZEALAND.
coloured 5s.
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state. They are executed in tinted Lithography by Mr. Allom.
VIEWS OF ALL THE PRINCIPAL TOWNS IN SCOT-
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PORTRAITS OF EMINENT AUTHORS AND ACTRESSES.
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tion, may be had at 1s. each, prints; and 2s. 6d. each, India proofs.
THOMAS CARLYLE, Esq.
CHARLES DICKENS, Esq.
WILLIAM WORDSWORTH, Esq.
ALFRED TENNYSON, Esq.
ROBERT BROWNING, Esq.
MISS HARRIET MARTINEAU.
MISS O'NEIL.
MISS BRUNton.
MISS FOOTE.
MADAME VESTRIS.
MISS ELLEN TREE.
MISS HELEN FAUCIT.
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volumes of this elegant Annual, particularly suited for ornamenting Albums and Scrap-
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32 WORKS PUBLISHED BY SMITH, ELDER AND CO
MAPS AND CHARTS :-
A NEW MAP OF THE PUNJAUB. Coloured 18. ; in case 18. 6d.
ARROWSMITH'S MAP OF AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND.
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ARROWSMITH'S MAP OF NEW ZEALAND. In sheets, coloured,
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CHART OF COOK'S STRAITS, NEW ZEALAND. By CHARLES
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HEIGHTS OF ALL THE MOUNTAINS IN THE WORLD.
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PARBURY'S MAP OF OVERLAND ROUTE TO INDIA. In
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