George Esti: Cox:
HAH
4.7
DS
T733
:
NON
CIRCULATING
Henry
Father
A
VOYAGE
Fring's
INTO THE
College
LEVANT:
Perform'd by Command of the late French King.
17 CONTAINING 52.
The Ancient and Modern STATE of the
Iflands of the Archipelago; as alfo of Con-
ftantinople, the Coafts of the Black Sea,
Armenia, Georgia, the Frontiers of Perfia,
and Afia Minor.
WITH
PLANS of the principal Towns and Places of Note;
an Account of the Genius, Manners, Trade and
Religion of the refpective People inhabiting thofe
Parts: And an Explanation of Variety of Medals
and Antique Monuments.
Illuftrated with Full Defcriptions and curious Copper-Plates
of great Numbers of Uncommon Plants, Animals, &c.
And feveral Obfervations in Natural Hiſtory.
By M. TOURNE FORT, of the Royal Academy of
Sciences, Chief Botanift to the late French King, &c.
To which is Prefix'd,
The Author's LIFE, in a Letter to M. Begon: As alfo his Elogium, pronounc'à
by M. Fontenelle, before a public Affembly of the Academy of Sciences,
Adorn'd with an Accurate MAP of the Author's Travels, not in the
French Edition: Done by Mr. Senex.
VOL. II.
LONDON:
Printed for D. MIDWINTER, R. WARE, C RIVINGTON, A. WARD.
J. and P. KNAPTON, T. LONGMAN, R. HETT, C. HITCH, S. AUSTEN,
J. WooD and C, WOODWARD, J. and H. PEMBERTON, MDCCXLI,
THE
CONTENTS.
DES
LETTER I.
ESCRIPTION of the Iſlands
of Syra, Thermia, Zia, Macro-
nifi, Joura, Andros, and Tinos
LETTER II.
Page I
Defcription of the Islands of Scio, Me-
telin, Tenedos, and Nicaria
LETTER III.
4.9
Defcription of the Ilands of Samos,
Patmos, Fourni, and Skyros
LETTER IV.
88
Defcription of the Strait of the Dar-
danelles, of the Cities of Gallipoli,
and Conftantinople
139
The CONTENTS.
LETTER V.
Defcription of Conftantinople continued
LETTER VI.
176
Of the Government and Polity of the
Turks
LETTER VII.
228
Of the Religion, Manners, and Cu-
Atoms of the Turks
LETTER VIII.
282
A Deſcription of the Canal of the
Black Sea
346
A
134.I.
Pag. 145
Island of
SYRA.
+
47
་་ད་ང་ཅས་
A
(1)
A
VOYAGE
INTO THE
LEVANT:
By the KING's exprefs Command.
LETTER I.
To Monseigneur the Count de Pontchartrain,
Secretary of State, &c.
MY LORD,
W
E are now got into [a] Defcription
Syra, the moſt catholick of the Iflands
Inland of all the Archipe- mia, Zia, Ma-
of Syra, Ther-
lago. To feven or eight Families of cronifi, Joura,
the Greek Communion, there are Andros, and
above 6000 Souls of the Latin: and Tinos.
when theſe intermarry with the Greeks, the Chil-
dren are all Roman-catholicks; whereas at Naxos
the Boys follow their Father's Way of Worship,
and the Girls that of the Mother. Theſe Bleffings
are owing to the French Capuchins, who are
mightily beloved in this Ifland, and are very
intent upon inftructing a People naturally ire
[4] ΣΥΡΟΣ, Strab. ΣΥΡΑ, Suid. Νήσος τις Συρίας
Homer. Odyff. o. verf. 402. SYROS, SYRA,
B
Vol. II.
clined
2 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
clined to Good, avowed Enemies to Fraud, full
of worthy Sentiments, and fo laborious, there's
no fleeping in this Ifland; not in the night-time,
becauſe of the univerfal Din made by the Hand-
mills each Man works at to grind his Corn;
nor in the day-time, becauſe of the Rumbling
made by the Wheels for fpinning of Cottor.
The Houſe and Church of the Capuchins
are prettily built. We were rejoiced to fee the
Banner of France difplayed at the corner of their
Terrafs. Father Jacinthe of Amiens, a fenfible
Man, and the Conful of Tinos's Subftitute, en-
tertain❜d us in the moft obliging manner. Theſe
Fathers direct the Confciences of twenty five
Nuns of the third Order of St. Francis, who
lead an exemplary Life, tho' not cloifter'd. The
Greeks have but two Churches in Syra, ferved by
a Papas. There's but one Turk, viz, the Cadi;
and he too is fain to take fhelter among the
Capuchins, when there appears any Corfair about
the Ifland. They chufe two Adminiſtrators every
year: in 1700, the Capitation and Land-tax
amounted to 4000 Crowns,
We landed there the 26th of October. Syra
is about thirty Miles from Mycone, reckoning
from one Cape to the other; but it is forty from
the Port of Mycone to that of Syra. This Port
will receive the biggeſt Ships: its Entrance is to
the Eaft. [b] The Ifland, which is but 25
miles about, wants for no manuring, and pro-
duces excellent Wheat, tho' but a ſmall Quantity,
abundance of Barley, plenty of Wine and Figs,
as alfo Cotton and Olives, which the Inhabitants
pickle for ufe. Tho' Syra is very mountainous,
it is deftitute of Wood, and all their Fewel is
Shrubs: the Air is humid, and colder than in
[b]Syros, quam circuitu patere viginti millia paffuum prodi-
dere veteres, Mutianus centum fexaginta. Plin. lib. 4. cap. 12.
moft
181. I.
Am
The
he Town of SYRA
١٠الرابـ
HUMO
Pag. 246
Pag.245.
e
Y
a Basso Relievo of Marble, which remains in Ile of Syra.
186. I.
Vol.I. Pag.326.
This Bas-relief is repeated.
58
SER
An Ancient piece of Sculpture which is now fixt up in the Church
of Netelinous in the Island of Samos.
Defcription of the Island of Syra.
3
moſt of the other Islands of the Archipelago:
Homer has given an advantageous Deſcription of
it. [c]
The Borough is a mile from the Port, in-
circling a fmall but fteep Hill, on the point
whereof are fituated the Bishop's Houſe and the
Epifcopal Church dedicated to St. George: that
Prelate's Income is but 400 Crowns a year, but
for his Confolation he has the beſt Body of
Clergy in all the Levant, confifting of forty
Priefts.
On the Port ate feen the Ruins of an antient
and large City, called in former times Syros, as
well as the Inland; as appears by an [a] Inſcrip-
tion brought from the Sea-fide to the Burgh, and
fixed into a Corner of the Church: therefore 'tis
a miſtake to think that Syra comes from a vulgar
Greek [e] Word, fignifying a Miſtreſs or Lady.
On the left hand of the Bishop's Door on a
Bafs-relief is reprefented a Siftrum of the An-
tients, or an Inftrument uſed in Battle inftead of
a Trumpet, as likewife fome other Inftruments;
it was taken out of the fame Ruins, among
which is ftill to be feen a fair flat Front of a
Wall, built of huge Scantlings of baſtard Mar-
Ble, cut facet-wife. There have been likewife
hewn thence ſeveral pieces of white Marble, and
eſpecially of Columns, which ftand before the
Capuchins Church.
The chief Spring of the Inland is very
antient, and runs pretty near the Town: the
People have I know not what Tradition, that
in antient Times the Cuſtom was for every body
to go and purify themfelves in it, before they
came to Delos. There is, it feems, an Infcrip-
[2] Εύβολος, Εύμηλος, οινοπληθής, πολύπυρος, &c.
Odyſï. o. verf. 405.
[d] CrPCC.
[e] Kued x
Κυρία. Αρχόντισσα.
B 2
tion
4
A VOYAGE into the Levant.
tion at this Spring, but they told us of it too
late to go fee it.
The Iflands round Syra cannot be the An-
ticyre fo renown'd for the Herb Hellebore
thefe are in the Gulph of Zeiton beyond the
Negropont, over againſt Mount Oeta, where Her-
cules is faid to have breath'd his laft. Inſtead of
Hellebore, we found in Syra near the Haven a
Plant, which pleaſed us exceedingly: it is that
which produces the Manna of Perfia. Rauvol-
phus a Phyſician of Ausbourg, who diſcovered it.
in his Voyage to the Levant in 1537, ſpeaks of
it under the name of Alhagi Maurorum; but he
is fo very fuccinct, as the manner was then, that
I thought it not amifs to examine it fully on the
fpot, left we ſhould not meet with it again in our
Voyage. It ſeemed fomewhat odd for a Plant,
which is one of the Beauties of the Plains of
Armenia, Georgia, and Perfia, to be as it were
confined to the Inlands of Syra and Tinos.
M.
Wheeler faw it in Tinos, and took it for a Plant
undeſcribed. [f] I have made a particular Ge-
nus of it, under the name of [g] Albagi.
Its Roots are woody, four or five lines thick,
brown, not very hairy; its Stalks are near
three foot high, about two lines thick, pale
green, fleek, hard, branchy below, attended
with Leaves like thofe of Rupture-wort: the
biggeſt are ſeven or eight lines long, three broad,
pale green, and fleek, faften'd to a very fhort
Pedicule, rounded at the other end, where they
are terminated by a very delicate point; which
is nothing elſe but the Extremity of the Stalk
croffing the Leaves without forming any fenfible
[f] Corol. Inft. Rei Herb. 54. [] ALHAGI Mau-
rorum Rauvolf. 94. Genifta fpartium fpinofum, foliis Poly-
goni. C. B. Pin. Genifta fpinofa, flore rubro. Wheel.
Polygonium latifolium. C. B. Pin.
Nervation:
Defcription of the Iſland of Syra.
5
Nervation by the Leaves is a hard firm Prickle,
from five Lines to an inch long, ftreak'd and
reddiſh at the end. The Prickles of the Branches
are lefs, and grow out of the Baſes of the Leaves;
thoſe where the Branches and Stalks end, are an
inch and a half long, finer than the others, and
with two or three leguminous Flowers on each,
about half an inch long, purple-colour'd in the
middle, reddiſh about the rims, and rounded.
The Under-leaf, which is obtufe and purple-
colour'd, ferves as a white Wrapper to a white
Sheath, fring'd, yellow-topt, and covers a Peſtle
four lines long, ending in a Thred. The Cup
is a line and a half long, pale green, fleek,
moderately fluted. The Flower being gone,
the Peftle turns to a Cod about an inch in length,
bending like a Sickle, articulated, reddiſh, two
lines thick where the Seeds are incloſed; for the
Articulations are very narrow, and eafily broken.
Theſe Seeds are brown, a line long, fomewhat
more than a line broad; the Structure of the
Cod or Pod is what diſtinguiſhes this Plant from
the Species of Broom and Genista Spartium.
I know not whether the Albagi yields Man-
na in the Ifles of Syra and Tinos; but this
I know, the People of the Country are ignorant
that this Plant furniſhes a Drug that purges full
as well: it is chiefly about Tauris, a Town in
Perfia, that it is gathered, under the name of
Trungibin or Terenjabin, reported in Avicenna and
in Serapion; thofe Authors thought it fell upon
certain prickly Shrubs, whereas it is only the
nutritious Juice of the Plant we have been de-
fcribing.
During the great Heats, you perceive fmall
Drops of Honey fhed on the Leaves and
Branches of thefe Shrubs; thefe Drops harden
into Grains about the bigness of Coriander-feed.
B 3
They
5
AVOYAGE into the Levant.
They gather thoſe of the Alhagi, and make 'em
into reddish Cakes, full of Duft and Leaves,
which alter the Colour, and leffen their Virtue.
This Manna is very inferior to the Italian. Two
forts are fold in Perfia; the beſt is in little Grains,
the other is like a Pafte, and contains more
Leaves than Manna. The ordinary Dofe of both
is from 25 to 30 Drams, as they term it in the
Levant, where they diffolve it in an Infufion
of Sena.
-
[b] Pherecydes, one of the antienteft Philofo-
phers of Greece, Mafter of Pythagoras, and
the Diſciple of Pittacus, was born in Syra, where
they kept his Solar [1] Quadrant as a Monument
of his Capacity: many aicribe the Invention to
him; others are of opinion he learnt it of the
Phenicians, whofe Books he was well acquainted
with. But Cicero [k] commends that great Man
on a far more remarkable account, namely, for
being the firſt that taught the Immortality of the
Soul; tho' he is charged by Suidas with pub-
lifhing the Tranfmigration of the Soul from one
Body into another.
Before we left Syra, we failed not to make
our Geographical Obfervations:
Andros is to the North of this Iſland.
Joura to the North-east,
Zia to the Weft-north-weft,
Thermia between the Weſt and Weft-north-weft.
Mycone to the Eaſt.
Tinos to the North-east.
The Great Delos between the Eaft and the
Eaft-fouth-eaft.
The Mountain of Zia of Naxos between the
South-eaft and the Eaft-fouth-east.
[b] Strab. Rer. Geog. lib. 10. Diog. Laert. in Pherec.
Suid. in voce Pherec.
ἐν Σύρᾳ τῇ νήσῳ. Diog.
cap. 156.
[1] Σώζεται ἢ κι Ηλιοτρόπιον
[k] Cic. Quæft. Tufc. lib. 1.
From
Vol. I.
Pa. 24
Ifle of
THERMIA.
ندار ایران
Defcription of the Island of Thermia. 7
THERMIA.
ΚΥΘΝΟΣ.
From Syra we directed our courſe to
Thermia, another Ifland 25 Miles from KrONOZ.
Syra from Cape to Cape, but above 40
from one Port to the other: for if you would go
into the Canal of Thermia, you muſt fetch a com-
paſs of almoſt one half of Syra. For the fame reaſon
they reckon but 12 miles from Thermia to Zia,
though 'tis 36 from one Port to the other. The
Nearness of Thermia to Zia fuffers us not to doubt
that Thermia is the Ifland of Cythnos, fince Dice-
archus [1] places it between Ceos and Seriphus :
it produced an eminent Painter, whom Euftathius
[m] calls Cydias. The Cheefes of Cythnos were
much eſteemed by the Antients, according to the
Report of Stephens [n] the Geographer and Julius
Pollux: it was likewife here that a Tempeft drove
the counterfeit Nero, a Slave, a great Luteniſt,
together with his Followers, Birds of the fame
Feather, as Tacitus [o] tells us.
We arrived at Thermia the Night between
the 30th and 31ft of October, and were forced
to lie in a Chapel, where we were like to have
our Throats cut. Some Turks of Negropont, who
were in a large Caick near ours, feeing our Sailors
ftripping off the Skins of a couple of Sheep we
had bought at Syra, went and raiſed the Town
upon us, as if we were Banditti, come to plunder
the Port. Upon this, the Country People took
to their Arms: but as good-fortune would have
it, the Conful of France, M. Janachi, whom
they raiſed out of bed to go along with 'em, en-
quiring what fort of figure theſe pretended Ban-
ditti made, and being told that four of 'em
wore Hats, rightly concluded they could not be
Banditti, who feldom have fo much as a Thrum-
[7] De Statu Græc. [m] Comment. ad Dionyf.
Perieg. [κ] Καὶ Κύπνιος τυρὸς καὶ Κύθνιος ὁ ζωγράφος,
Steph. [] Hift. lib. 2. cap. 8.
B &
cap
8
A VOYAGE into the Levant.
cap to their pates. He therefore pray'd the
Townſmen of Thermia to go home again, affur-
ing them that they were Merchants, Frenchmen
belike, come to buy Corn and Silk. For all that,
they made him diſpatch away two of his Do-
mefticks, to go and get intelligence of us. We
were furprized about Three in the Morning, to
fee entring the Chapel two Perfons, who with
their Carbines cock'd demanded who we were,
and all that. When we had fatisfied them, they
told us, that had it not been for the prudent
Remonftrances of the Conful of France, we had
gone to pot, every Mother's Son of us. Being
recovered from our Fright, we waited on the
Conful to thank him: there we had the mortifi-
cation to fee, among our Accufers, a Turk whom
we knew Waivod at Serpho, and who was more
alarmed than any other, becauſe he had pack'd
up, and was carrying off his ill-gotten Treaſure.
He begg❜d us a thoufand pardons, and recom-
mended us earneftly to the Conful's Favour and
Protection.
The Ifland of Thermia, unlike moft of the
Inlands of the Archipelago, is not fteep; its Soil
is good and well-improved, it affords little Wheat,
but a great deal of Barley, and a fufficiency of
Wine and Figs, fcarce any Oil at all. The Silk
of this Iſland is faid to be as good as that of
Tinos: this of Thermia ufually fells for a Crown
a Pound, fometimes a hundred Sous, nay two
hundred, which brings confiderable Profit to the
Country; for they make there above 1200 pound
weight of that Commodity. Their other Trade
lies in Barley, Wine, Honey, Wax, Wooll;
their Cotton Manufacture is only for their own
ufe: they make a pretty fort of Gauze or yellow
Veils, which the Women of the Ifland wear
about their Heads. Thermia likewife affords plenty
of
Defcription of the Island of Thermia.
of Provifion; there is fuch a prodigious quantity
of Partridges, that they export Cages full of
'em to the neighbouring Iflands, where they fell
'em for two Parats (Three-pence) a-piece; the
place has few Rabbits, and no Hares at all: as
for Wood, they have none to ſpeak of, fo they
burn nothing but Stubble.
The principal Village of Thermia bears the
fame Name; the other, which is not fo large,
is called Silaca: both together contain about 6000
Souls. The Inhabitants of the whole Iſland gene-
rally pay 5000 Crowns to the Capitation, and to
the Land-tax they were made to pay 6000
Crowns in 1700. As for their Religion, they
are all of the Greek Rite, except ten or twelve
Latin Families, moft of 'em French Mariners,
who have but one Chapel, and that a poor one,
in the Conful's Country-houfe: it is fupply'd by
a Vicar, who is allowed fifteen Crowns a year
by the Biſhop of Tinos. The Greek Biſhop there
is pretty well to pafs, and has above fifteen or
fixteen Churches in the Town of Thermia alone.
The principal Church is dedicated to our [9]
Saviour; it ſtands at the upper end of the Town,
and is a very handſom Building: the Monaſte-
ries are moſt of 'em empty, except two called
by the Name of the [r] Virgin, and as many
by that of [s] St. Michael the Archangel.
The Port of Sant Erini, two miles from the
Village, is very convenient for Merchant-fhips,
as well as that of St. Stephen, to the fide of Silaca:
this latter looks South-fouth-eaft, but the other
North-north-eaft and North-eaſt.
Beſides the Wells that are round the Vil-
lages, the Ifland wants for no Springs; the
moſt noted are the hot ones, and from them
[2] Σωτῆρος. [-] Παναγία. [3] Ο Ταξιάρχης.
the
10
AVOYAGE into the Levant.
the Inland takes its Name []: thefe are at the
bottom of one of thofe parts of the Port that is
impervious North-eaſt as you enter on the right.
The chief of the Springs boils up at the foot of
a little Hill in a Houfe, whither they go to wash
their Linen, and fweat when they're indifpofed;
the others bubble up fome paces farther off, and
form a Stream which runs into the Sea, from
whence all thefe Waters come; for they are very
brackish, and no doubt contract their Heat in
croffing the Hill amidſt Iron Mines, or ferrugi-
nous Subftances, which are the Caufe of moſt
hot Waters, as I have laid down in my Deſcrip-
tion of Milo. Theſe of Thermia turn the Oil of
Tartar white, but cauſe no alteration in a Solution
of corrofive Sublimate, any more than the warmı
Springs of Protothalaffo in Milo, which are abun-
dantly hotter than theſe we're ſpeaking of. The
antient Baths of Thermia were in the midſt of the
Valley, where ftill remain the Fragments of a
Repoſitory built of Brick and Stone, with a fmall
Trench to conduct the Water to what part they
pleaſed: thefe Waters ſtill preſerve their Virtue,
but have loft their Reputation, becauſe none re-
fort to 'em, but fuch Invalids, whom all the mi-
neral Waters in the World will never cure.
In this Iſland you fee likewife the two antient
Towns of Hebreocaftro and Paleocaftro: Hebreo-
caftro, or the Jews Town, is to the South-weſt
on the edge of the Sea, and on the flope of a
Mountain near a Port where is a ſmall Rock.
The Magnificence and Grandeur of thefe Ruins
are furprizing, and plainly fpeak it to have been
a puiffant City, nay that very City Dicæarchus
[u] makes mention of. Among thefe Ruins we
were led into three beautiful Caverns cut in the
[] OEPMOя, hot, from whence comes Thermia, and
by Corruption Fermia and Fermina. [u] De Statu Græc,
Rock
186. I.
Pag. 252
IOURA.
7
ZIA
Deſcription of the Iſland of Zia. II
Rock by manual Labour, and cemented, to keep
the Rain-water from foaking in. By the remain-
der of the Walls, built of huge Stones lozenge-
cut and pointed like a Diamond, we guefs'd 'em
to be the Ruins of fome antient Citadel; but we
could find no Infcription, to let us into the
Name of the Town. They fhew'd us a very fine
Marble Grave-ftone, almoft half-bury'd in the
Earth, and embelish'd with Bafs-reliefs; as
likewife a Bounder-god of Marble, the Drapery
whereof is admirable.
Paleocaftro is another part of the Inland,
and tho' it is quite empty, yet is not fo ru-
inous as the other; but it affords no Remains
of any thing grand: however, we obferved fome
very fine Plants, and especially one [x] which
the Turks very much ufe the Trunk of, to make
the Gripe of their Sabres with. They fay there
are ftill in this Town 101 Churches: we faw many
forfaken Chapels, but we had not Curiofity
enough, or rather Patience, to count 'em.
Our Univerfal Quadrant gave us occafion
to make fome Remarks with refpect to Geography.
Serpho is South of Thermia.
Serphopoula South-eaſt.
Siphanto between the South-eaft and South-
fouth-eaft.
Milo lies from the South to the South-fouth-weft.
Thus much for Thermia: the Inland ZIA, KENE
of Zia affords a larger Field for Dif KIA, CEOs,
courſe.
CEA.
[y] Arifteus, Son of Apollo and of Cyrene,
grieved for the Death of his Son Acteon, re-
tired from Thebes at the perfuafion of his Mo-
ther, and went over to Ceos, now known by
[x] Medicago trifolia frutefcens incana. Inft. Rei Herb.
Servius in Virg. Geog. 1.
the
12
AVOYAGE into the Levant.
the Name of Zia, and then uninhabited.
[a]
Diodorus Siculus fays he went into that of Cos;
but is likely this Name was common to the
Country of Hippocrates, and to the Ifland of
Keos or Ceos and Cea: for Stephens the Geographer
has used the Word Kos for Keos, unleſs you'll
have it be an Error both in him and in Diodo-
rus. Be this as it will, the Inland of Ceos be-
came fo populous, that a Law paffed, [b] no lefs
cruel than fingular, That all Perfons upwards of
Sixty Years of Age fhould be poifon'd, that
others might have wherewithal to fubfift. Mean
while this Country was cultivated to the utmoſt
degree, as is manifeft by the Walls that were
built to the very Extremity of the Mountains, to
preferve their Lands: the truth is, they of this
Iſland made flight account of Life. Strabo re-
ports likewife, that the Athenians raiſed the Siege
of Ioulis, upon being informed they had taken
a Refolution to kill all the Children of a cer-
tain Age.
We arrived at Zia the 15th of November in
very foul Weather, which retarded our Paffage
not a little for they count 36 miles from Ther-
mia to Zia, tho 'tis but 12 from Cape to Cape.
This Inland muft have been beyond compariſon
much bigger, if Pliny [] was rightly informed
of its Revolutions: in antient Times, according
to him, it was of a piece with the Ifland Eubea,
but the Sea [d] broke 'em afunder, and carry'd
away great part of the Lands looking towards
Beotia: this indeed tallies exactly with the Fi-
gure of Zia, for it lengthens from North to
South, and is contracted from Eaft to Weft;
occafioned perhaps by the Overflowing of the
Black Sea, ſpoken of by Diodorus Siculus.
[a] Bibliot. Hift. lib. 4. [] Strab. Rer. Geog.
[c] Hift. Nat. lib. 2. cap. 92. & lib 4. cap. 12.
lib. 10.
[d] Negropont.
Of
Defcription of the Iſland of Zia.
13
Of the four famous Cities which were in Ceos,
none but [e] Carthea remains, on whofe Ruins
is built the Borough of Zia: this no body can
doubt, that reads Strabo and Pliny; [f] the latter
fays, that Paeella and Coreffus were fwallow'd up;
and Strabo writes, that the People of Pecella
went over to Cartbea, and thofe of Coreffus to
Ioulis. Now the Situation of Ioulis is fo well
known, that it admits of no doubt: therefore
all that's left is Cartbea, ftill full of innumerable
pieces of broken Marble, lying abroad or uſed
in the Houſes.
This Borough, or the old Carthea, is on a
Height three Miles from the Port, at the farther
end of a diſagreeable Valley: 'tis a kind of
Theatre of 2500 Houfes, built in Stories and
terrass'd; that is to fay, their Tops are quite flat,
as they are all over the Levant, but firm and
ftrong as a Street-way. This is no wonder in a
Country where there are no Carts nor Coaches,
and where they walk in nothing but Pumps. To
the left is an empty Citadel, where fixty Turks
made a brave defence againſt an Army of Vene-
tians, with only two Firelocks, which was all
the Arms they could fave in the Shipwreck they
had newly fuffer'd: they had not ſurrender'd,
but for want of Water. Among the Marble
Monuments, the Word Gymmafiarch is found in
two Inferiptions, pretty hard to be read: we
faw too a Bafs-relief with the Figure of a Wo-
man well-draper'd.
The Town of Carthea extended into the
Valley which comes to the Sea-fide. Here are
many pieces of Antiquity, efpecially an Infcrip-
[e] Kagdais, Пonora. Strab. [] Poeefla, Plin.
Κορισσία,
Koooía, Strab. Coreffus, Plin. Isis, Strab. Ptolemy
makes mention likewife of three Towns of this land. Kia
νῆσος ἐν ᾗ πόλεις τρεις, Καρησσός, Ισλὶς, Καρθαία. Geog
Lib. 3. cap. 15.
tion
14
A VOYAGE into the Levant.
tion of forty one Lines, tranfported into St. Peter's
Chapel the beginning is wanting, and moft
of the Letters fo expung'd, we could ſcarce pick
any thing out but Gymnafiarch.
Here-
To fee fomething more worth while, we di-
rected our ſteps towards the South-fouth-eaſt,
where are the Remains of the old Town of [f]
Iolis, now call'd Polis, as who ſhould ſay the
Polis, or City. Thefe Ruins take up a whole
Mountain, at whofe foot the Waves are always
beating; but in Strabo's time they were three
miles off it. Careffus ferv'd it for a Port; now
there are but two forry Creeks, and on the Cape's
Point are the Ruins of an antient Citadel.
abouts you diſcover a Temple, from the Mag-
nificence of its decay'd Remains: moſt of the
Columns have their Shaft half plain and half
fluted, their Diameter two foot within two inches,
their Flutings three inches broad: they led us
down to the Sea-fide through a noble Stair-cafe
cut in the Marble, where they fhew'd us a Fi-
gure without either Arms or Head; its Dra-
pery is well-contriv'd and regular, the Leg and
Thigh well-jointed: 'tis thought to be the Statue
of the Goddeſs Nemefis, it being in the pofture
of a Perfon purſuing fome body. The Remains
of the Town are on the Hill, and extend as
far as to the Valley where glides the Foun-
tain Ioulis, a beautiful Spring from whence the
Place has its Name [g]. I never faw fuch huge
Quarters of Marble, as thofe which are made ufe
of in the building thefe Walls: fome of 'em are
above twelve foot long.
Among thefe Ruins, in a Field fown with
Barley, we found a broken Marble with the
[1] ΙΟΥΛΙΣ [3] Ισλὶς πόλις ἐν Κω τῇ νήσῳ ἀπὸ
Ιολίδος Κρηνής. Steph.
Word
Vol. I
Pag 254
A Statue of the Goddess Nemesis in the Ile of Zia.
79*
J
Defcription of the Ifland of Zia. 15
=
Word Iida, the Accufative of Isis: the Word
réparos is twice there.
We went from this Town to Cartbea, through
the fineſt Road perhaps that ever was in all
Greece, and which ftill continues for above three
Miles together, parallel with a ftrong Wall co-
ver'd with a flat Stone, greyish and splitting like
a Slate with theſe they cover the Houſes and
Chapels in moſt of the Íſlands.
Ioulis, according to Strabo [b], was the
Country of Simonides the Lyrick Poet, and of
Bachylides his Coufin. Erafiftratus, a renown'd
Phyfician, and Arifto the Peripatetick, were alſo
born here. The Oxford Marbles [i] tell us, that
Simonides, Son of Leoprepis, invented a fort of
artificial [k] Memory, which he fhew'd the
Principles of at Athens; and that he was de-
fcended of another Simonides a great Poet like-
wife, much in efteem here, and fpoken of in the
Epoch 50: one of thefe two Simonides invented
thofe doleful [] Verfes which uſed to be fung at
Funerals.
After the Defeat of Caffius and Brutus, [m]
Marc Anthony gave the Athenians Cea, Egina,
Tinos, and fome other adjoining Iſlands. It is be-
yond all doubt, that Cea was fubjected to the Ro-
man Emperors, and afterwards fell under the do-
minion of the Greeks. I know not what Year
it was annex'd to the Dutchy of Naxos, but [n]
Pierre Juftiniani and Dominique Michael feiz'd it in
the Reign of Henry II. Latin Emperor of Con-
ftantinople. Father Sauger [o] obſerves, that du-
ring the Wars of the Venetians and Genoefe, Ni-
[6] Rer. Geog. lib. 10.
Mrnuorinós.
2. Od. I
[i] Epoch. 55. [4] T}
Næniæ. Vide Horat. lib.
[4] 'Ezieńdior.
[m] Appian. 1. 5.
Conftant. lib, 2,
chipelago.
[] Hiftory
[n] Du Cange Hift. of
of the Dukes of the Ar-
cbitas
16
A VOYAGE into the Levant.
cholas Carcerio, the ninth Duke of the Archipelago,
declaring for the former, Zia, which belong'd to
him, was beſieged by Philip Doria Governor of
Scio: the Garrifon, not confifting of more than
a hundred Men, furrender'd at difcretion in the
Citadel of the Town. M. du Cange, [p] who
places this Expedition in the Year 1553, was of
opinion that Zia belong'd to the Genoefe; but we
had better ſtick to Father Sauger, [q] who ex-
amin'd into the Archives of Naxos on the very
ſpot itſelf.
Zia was afterwards yielded up to
the Dukes of the Archipelago, who kept it till
the Declension of their State. James Crifpo,
the laft Duke, gave it in Dower to his Sifter
Thaded, Wife of John Francis de [r] Sommerive,
the eighth and laft Lord of Andros, difpoffefs'd
by Barbaroffa under Solyman II.
The Ifle of Zia is at prefent well manured, and
very [s] fertile they breed good Cattle, but gather
little Wheat; they abound in Barley and Wine;
they have more Silk than at Thermia, and much
of Velani; fo they call the Fruit of one of the
fairest Species of [t] Oak in the world: the Root,
Trunk, Height of it, is the fame with the ordi-
nary Oak; its Branches very full and thick, wide-
fpreading, crooked, whitifh within, cover'd with
a Bark greyish, and in many places brown. The
Leaves grow thereon in clufters, and are three
inches long, two broad, round at their Baſe,
deeply indented on the edges, each Tooth where-
of (if we may fo call 'em) terminates in a flabby
reddiſh point: thefe Leaves are thick, hard, pale
green, fomewhat glittering in the upper part,
cover'd with an almoft imperceptible Down,
[p] Ibid. lib. 3. [q] Ibid.
[+] Summaripa.
Et cultor nemorum cui pinguia Cee Tercentum nivei ton-
dent dumeta juvenci. Georg. lib. 1. verf. 14. [1]
Quercus calyce echinato, glande majore. C. B. Pin.
[:]
white
Vol. I.
Pag.256
لد
Verbascum Græcum fruticosum folie finuato
didis simo Coroll. Inst.Rei herb.8.
can
Defcription of the Island of Zia.
17
}
white beneath, and as it were cottony, ſupported
by a Tail about ten lines long. The Acorns
are very different from thofe of the ordinary Oak;
each of 'em begins by a Button almoft fpherical,
and increaſes to about an inch or fifteen lines dia-
meter, flat before, and hollow like a Navel,
open enough to fhew the Point of the Fruit with-
in its Wrapper; whereas our Acorns have only a
flight fort of a Cap, that covers no more than a
third part of 'em. The Wrapper of the Acorn
we are ſpeaking of, is a fort of Box fet off
with feveral Scales pale green, three or four
lines long, pretty firm, a line and a half broad,
blunt-pointed when we were there, the Fruit
was not ripe the Greeks call them [v] Velani,
and the Tree Velanida.
Here is likewiſe a fine fort of Phlomos or
High-taper, white, its Leaves wavy and cot-
tony, very different from that of Provence and
Languedoc.
Verbafcum Græcum, fruticofum, folio fiuato candi-
diffimo. Corol. Inft. Rei Herb. 8.
Its Root is woody, a foot long, bigger than
one's Thumb, chapt, bitterifh, hairy-fibred: its
Stalk too is thicker than one's Thumb, hard,
white within, cover'd with a greyiſh Coat, a foot
and a half long, with Leaves cluſter'd, ſeven or
eight inches long, white, cottony, three or four
inches broad, but more undulated and prettier
crifp'd than thofe of our white High-taper, or
Bouillon. [x] The Leaves of the middle of the
Cluſters are thicker, yellowish white: other Stalks
rife from the Center of thefe Clufters to about
two foot high, garnish'd with fome Leaves,
fhorter, thicker, whiter. From their Bafes grow
along the Stalks, and as it were in Balls, yellow
[υ] Η Βάλανος, an Acorn. [x] Verbafcum lu-
teum, folio Papaveris corniculati. C. B. Pin.
C
Flowers,
18
A VOYAGE into the Levant.
Flowers, an inch broad, flaſh'd into five parts
round, the two upper fomewhat less than the
other. All thefe Flowers have holes at the bot-
tom, and from thence arife five purple Stamina
or Threds, cover'd with a thick white Down;
hooked, top'd with Summities of an Orange-
colour. The Cup is a Cod five lines long, cot-
tony, divided into five points, from the bottom
whereof riſes a Piſtile terminating in a reddiſh
Thred: this Piſtile turns to a red Cod, four lines
long, two broad, hard, pointed, divided into
two Cells, and opening in two parts fill'd with
fmall blackish Seeds. This Plant has not de-
generated in the King's Garden.
The beſt trading Commodity of the Iſland is
of the fore-defcribed Velani, of which in the
Year 1700 they gather'd above 5000 Hundred
Weight. The fmall Velani are the young Fruit
gather'd off the Tree, and much more valu'd
than thofe full ripe that fall of themſelves: both
are uſed by the Dyers and Tanners. The young
fort generally fetch a Crown the Hundred,
whereas the other is not worth above half as
much but moſt commonly they're mix'd. We
left in the Port of Zia a Venetian Ship that was
lading with thefe Velani.
This Port, whofe Entrance is between the
Weft-north-weft and the North-weft, admits the
largeſt Veffels: the beft Anchoring is on the
right, and the Spring of freſh Water is not far
On the left is a Road for Ships call'd
the Cow's-buttock, fit for none but fmall Veffels.
The Chapels where Travellers ufually lie, are
number'd (1) (2) (3) (4).
off.
This Inland produces a Lead like that of Si-
phanto, and chiefly beyond the Monaftery of St.
Morina: thereabouts alfo is a Chalk like that of
Briançon. Zia is deftitute of Qil and Wood :
there's
131. I.
Port of ZIA.
Macronisi.
5
Pag.257
1.2.3.4. Chapelles to lye in.
5 Basin for large Vessels.
6. Road call'd Beef-buttock for
small Vessels to ride in
7. The Way to the Town.
8. A Fountain.
6
Defcription of the Island of Zia.
19
there's ſtore of Wild-fowl, particularly abundance
of Partridges and Pidgeons; but the Inhabi-
tants have ſeldom either Powder or Ball to kill
'em. The Venetian. Army, which was at Na-
poli di Romania, had fo famiſh'd this Iſland when
we paſs'd that way, that a Pullet fold for Fifteen
Pence.
In all Zia there are not above five or fix
Families of the Latin Communion; their Church
is poor, ferv'd by a Vicar, to whom the Biſhop
of Tinos allows but fifteen Crowns a year, and
this he muſt go for as far as Tinos; for there's no
fuch thing as Bills of Exchange here.
The Greek Biſhop is very rich, and the Iſland
is full of Papas and Chapels: there are five
Monafteries of this Communion; St. Pantaleon,
St. Anne, la Madona d'Epifcopi, Daphni, and St.
Marina, where they fhew as a Wonder of the
Country, an antient fquare Tower of ordinary
Stone, cut oblique on the fides, facet-wife. I
thought it no Curiofity at all. Below St. Ma
rina, towards the Sea, runs a fmall Brook it
:
may have been the Elixus, [] which ran on
to Careffus.
The Burghers of Zia generally get together.
in knots when they fpin their Silk: they fit
upon the very edge of their Terrafs Roofs, and
let fall the Spindle into the Street, and then
draw it up again in winding the Thread. We
found the Greek Bifhop in this pofture: he
ask'd who we were, at the fame time giving
us to underſtand that 'twas a fign we had not
much to do, if we came thither only to hunt
for Plants and Pieces of Antiquity: to which
we reply'd, we ſhould be much more edify'd
[4] Esa ὃ και Ελιξος ποταμὸς περὶ τὴν Κορισσίαν, Strab.
lib. 10.
C 2
to
20
A VOYAGE into the Levant.
to find him reading St. Chryfoftom's or St. Bafil's
Works, than winding off Bottoms of Silk.
The fhort Clokes of Goats-hair wrought in
this Inland, are very commodious, and keep
out the Rain a long while: at firft 'tis a fleafy
fort of Stuff, but thickens and contracts by
being well prefs'd on the Sea-fand, which for
that purpoſe they wet again and again: after
'tis thoroughly foak'd and made fupple, they
lay it in the Sun on Tenters with ſtone Weights
on it, left it ſhould ſhrink too ſoon.
Pliny and his Compiler Solinus write, that Silk-
ſtuffs were invented here; but it might be eaſily
made appear, it was in the Iſland of Cos, the
Country of the renown'd Hippocrates. The fame
Pliny [m] obferv'd, that in Zia they uſed to dreſs
the Fig-trees with much care: they ſtill continue
to do ſo. To underſtand aright this Manufacture
or Husbandry of Figs (call'd in Latin, [n] Capri-
ficatio) we are to obferve, that in moſt of the
Iſlands of the Archipelago they have two forts of
Fig-trees to manage: the firſt is call'd Ornos,
from the old Greek Erinos, a Wild Fig-tree, Ca-
prificus [o] in Latin; the ſecond is the Domeſtick
or Garden Fig-tree: the wild fort bears three
kinds of Fruit, Fornites, Cratitires, Orni, of abfo-
lute neceffity towards ripening thofe of the Gar-
den-fig.
The Fornites appear in Auguft, and hold to
November without ripening: in theſe breed ſmall
Worms, which turn to certain Gnats no where
to be ſeen but about thefe Trees: in October and
November thefe Gnats of themſelves make a pun-
[m] In Cea infula caprifici triferæ funt. Primo fætu fe-
quens evocatur, fequenti tertius: hoc fici caprificantur. Plin.
Hift. Nat. lib. 16. cap. 27. [n] De Caprificatione vide
Theophraft. lib. 2. de Caufis Plant. c. 12. [o] Caprificus
vocatur e fylveftri genere Ficus nunquam maturefcens, fed quod
¿pfa non habet aliis tribuens. Plin. Hift. Nat. lib. 15. cap. 19.
&ture
Defcription of the Island of Zia.
21
cture into the ſecond Fruit, which is call'd Cratiti-
res, and which don't fhew themſelves till towards
the end of September; and the Fornites gradually
fall away after the Gnats are gone: the Cratitires,
on the contrary, remain on the Tree till May,
and incloſe the Eggs depofited by the Gnats
of the Fornites when they prick'd 'em. In May
the third fort of Fruit begins to put forth from
the fame Wild Fig-trees which produced the
two other this is much bigger, and is call'd
Orni: when it is grown to a certain fize, and its
Bud begins to open, it is prick'd in that part by
the Gnats of the Cratitires, which are ſtrong
enough to go from one Fruit to the other to
diſcharge their Eggs.
فا
It ſometimes happens that the Gnats of the
Cratitires are flow to come forth in certain parts,
while the Orni in thofe very parts are difpos'd
to receive them: in which cafe the Husbandman
is obliged to look for the Cratitires in another
part, and fix 'em at the end of the Branches
of thofe Fig-trees whofe Orni are in fit difpofi-
tion, in order to be prick'd by the Gnats: if they
mifs the opportunity, the Orni fall, and the
Gnats of the Cratitires fly away. None but
thoſe that are well acquainted with this fort of
Culture, know the critical Minutes of doing this;
and in order to it, their Eye is perpetually fix'd
on the Bud of the Fig; for that part not only
indicates the time that the Prickers are to iffue
forth, but alſo when the Fig is to be fucceſsfully
prick'd. If the Bud be too hard and too com-
pact, the Gnat can't lay its Eggs; and the Fig
drops, when this Bud is too open.
Theſe three forts of Fruit are not good to eat;
their Office is to help ripen the Fruit of the
Garden Fig-trees, in manner following. During
the Months of June and July, the Peaſants take
C 3
the
22
AVOYAGE into the Levant.
the Orni at a time that their Gnats are ready to
break out, and carry them to the Garden Fig-
tree: if they don't nick the Moment, the Orni
fall, and the Fruit of the Domeſtick or Garden-
fig not ripening, will in a very little time fall in
like manner. The Peafants are fo well acquainted
with theſe precious Moments, that every Morn-
ing, in making their Infpection, they only tranf
fer to their Garden Figs-trees fuch Orni as are
well-condition'd, otherwife they'd loſe their Crop:
'tis true, they have one Remedy, tho' an indifferent
one; which is, to ftrew over the Garden Fig-
trees the [p] Aſcolymbros, a very common Plant
there, and in whofe Fruit there are certain Gnats
proper for pricking: perhaps they are the Gnats
of the Orni, which are ufed to hover about and
plunder the Flowers of this Plant. To wind up
all in Word, the Peafants fo well order the Orni,
that their Gnats caufe the Fruit of the Garden
Fig-tree to ripen in the compafs of forty Days.
Thefe Figs are very good green: when they
would dry them, they lay 'em in the Sun for fome
time, then put 'em in an Oven to keep 'em the
reſt of the Year. Barley-bread and dry'd Figs
are the principal Subfiftence of the Boors and
Monks of the Archipelago. But thefe Figs are
very far from being fo good as thoſe dry'd in
Provence, Italy, and Spain; the Heat of the Oven
deſtroys all their Delicacy and good Taſte : but
then, on the other hand, this Heat kills the
Eggs which the Prickers of the Orni difcharg'd
therein; which Eggs would infallibly produce
ſmall Worms that would prejudice theſe Fruits.
What an Expence of Time and Pains is here
for a Fig, and that but an indifferent one at laft!
I could not fufficiently admire at the Patience of
[] Scolymus 'Chryfanthemos. C. B. Pin.
και Ασκόλυμβος,
λuplers
the
Deſcription of the Iſland of Zia.
23
the Greeks, buſy'd above two Months in carrying
theſe Prickers from one Tree to another. I was
foon told the reaſon one of their Trees ufually
bears between two and three hundred Pounds of
Figs, and ours but twenty five.
The Prickers contribute perhaps to the Maturi-
ty of the Fruit of the Garden-fig, by caufing to
extravafate the nutritious Juice, whofe Veffels they
tear aſunder in depoſiting their Eggs: perhaps
too, befides their Eggs, they leave behind 'em
fome fort of Liquor, proper to ferment gently
with the Milk of the Fig, and make the Fleſh of
'em tender. Our Figs in Provence, and even at
Paris, ripen much fooner for having their Buds
prick'd with a Straw dipt in Olive Oil. Plumbs
and Pears prick'd by fome Infect, do likewife
ripen much the fafter for it, and the Flefh round
fuch Puncture is better-taſted than the reft. It
is not to be difputed, but that a confiderable
Change happens to the Contexture of Fruits fo
prick'd, juft the fame as to the Parts of Animals
pierced with any fharp Inftrument.
'Tis fcarce poffible well to underſtand the an-
tient Authors who have treated of Caprification
(or husbanding and dreffing of Wild Fig-trees)
if one is not well appriz'd of the Circumſtances;
the Particulars whereof were confirm'd to us not
only at Zia, Tinos, Mycone, and Scio, but in moſt
of the other Iſlands. Before we left Zia, we a-
ſcended to the Tower of the Monaftery of St. Pan-
taleon, where we made the following Geographi-
cal Station.
Macronifi and Cape Colonne Weft-north-weſt.
Gaidaronifi and Porto-leone of Athens Weft.
St. George of Albora and Hydra Weft-fouth-weft.
Engia or Egina between Weft and Weft-fouth-
weſt.
C4
Thermia
24 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
Thermia between the South and South-fouth-
eaſt.
Serpho and Siphanto South.
Milo between the South and South-fouth-west.
Syra Eaft-fouth-eaft.
Andros North-eaft
Carifto North-north-eaſt.
Joura Eaft.
Tinos between the Eaft and Eaft-fouth-eaft.
Cape Skilli Weſt.
Negropont North.
Port Raphti North-weft,
They count from Zia to Port Colonne 18 Miles,
to Cape Oro 40 Miles, and from Cape Oro to
Cape Colonne 60 Miles.
fland.
MACRONISI. We began to be quite fick of Zia,
MAKPONH- where the contrary Winds detain'd
I, Long I- us from the 5th of November to the
21ft; at what time we were invited
by the Serenity of the Weather to paſs over to
Macronifi, an abandon'd, but famed Ifland,
twelve Miles from Zia, reckoning from one
Cape to another, and feparated from the Terra-
firma of Greece, or from the Coaft of Cape Co-
lonne, by a Strait ſeven or eight Miles over. Pliny
fays [9], that the Ifland Helene, or the Macronifi
of the modern Greeks, is equally diſtant from Cea
and Cape Sunium, or Cape Colonne, where are
the Ruins of the Temple of Minerva Suniades,
He fettles the diftance at 5000 paces: it is pro-
bable the Sea, which has wrought fo many Re-
volutions in Zia, occafions the difference of our
Meaſures.
ΜΑΚΡΙΣ
This Ifland, which is call'd Macris,
according to Stephens the Geographer,
and which Pliny fays was feparated from the Iſland
[2] Hift, Nat. lib. 4. cap. 12.
Eubea
Defcription of the land of Macronifi. 25
Eubea by the Impetuoufnefs of the Sea, was not
above three Miles broad, and ſeven or eight long;
[r] which is not very wide of the Dimenfion
Strabo [s] makes it to be of, and which occafion'd
its being call'd the Long Island. This Geographer
writes, that it was antiently call'd Cranae,
rugged, craggy; but it took the name of [t]
Helen, after Paris had brought thither that Gre-
cian Beauty, whom he had newly run away
with [u]. Stephens [x] the Geographer pretends,
with Paufanias, that this was not done till after
Troy was taken. The Date is of no great concern;
but certain it is, that the Ifland is in the very
fame Condition Strabo defcribed, namely, [y]
an uninhabited Rock; fo that Helen belike had
but an indifferent time of it there. Nor indeed
could I be brought to believe it ever was inha-
bited, but that Goltzius fpeaks of two Medals
[z] relating to the Inhabitants of it: We pafs'd
over its craggy Top, to get a Sight of the
Terra-firma of Greece. Macronifi has only a forry
Creek looking Eaft: there is hardly Water
enough to whet one's Whiſtle in the whole Iſland,
and none but the Shepherds of Zia know where
that is.
We lay in a Cavern near the Creek; but
we were heartily fcared in the Night: fome
[a] Sea-calves, which had taken up their Quar-
ters in the next Cavern to ours, fet up fuch
hideous Cries, that we thought 'em fome
Fiends from the other World: our Mariners
laughing, put us into Heart again. Whether
thefe Creatures make this Noife waking or fleep-
ing, I know not; it is a great diſpute among
[r] Sixty Stades.
[s] Rer. Geog. lib. 9.
ΕΛΕΝΗ. [u] In Attide Helene eft nota ftupro Helena.
Pomp. Mela de Situ Orb. lib. 2. cap. 7. [x] In Attic.
[ ] Teaxeĩa x) gnuos. Strab. ibid. [*] ΕΛΕΝΙΤΩΝ.
[aj KH, Sea-calf.
فورم
[+]
the
1
26 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
the Commentators of Pliny [z]. Hermolaus Bar-
barus thinks it is the latter, but he is not back'd
by the old Manufcripts of Pliny; befides, they
oppoſe to him a Text of Ariftotle [a] conforma-
ble to theſe Manufcripts. Without entring into
this Differtation, it is better abiding by what our
Mariners told us of the matter, namely, that
thefe Calves were at that time making love, or
catterwawling. At Day-break they quitted their
Cavern, and dived fo fwift into the Sea, there
was no catching 'em.
The only Pleaſure we had in this Inland was
Simpling, and in this particular it is the moſt
agreeable of the whole Archipelago: the Plants
here are larger, freſher, and fairer than elſewhere:
we met with ſeveral we had not fet Eye on
fince we left France.
That which Clufius calls Ciftus [b] with Thyme-
leaves, anſwers exactly to Pliny's Defcription of
his [c] Helenium: he advances, that it was to be
found in the Iſland Helene, and that it fprung
from Helen's Tears: he feems here, according to
his wonted Cuſtom, to have copy'd part of the
Deſcription Diofcorides gives of Helenium of Egypt,
which was found on the Coaft near Canope, in
an Island likewife called Helene from the fame
Princeſs. If we will believe the Author of the
Grand Greek Dictionary, who likewiſe relates the
Fable of Helen's Tears, this Plant grows about
Alexandria: probably thefe Tears came very eafily.
As for the common Helenium [d], it does not
[x] Hift. Nat. lib. 9. cap 18. [α] Αφίησι ἢ ὁμοί-
av gævnv Boí. Arift. Hift. Anim. lib. 6. cap. 12. [b]
HELIANTHEMUM Thymi folio glabro. Inft. Rei Herb. Ciftus
folio Thymi. Cluf. Hift. 72. [c] Helenium à lachrymis
Helenæ dicitur natum, & ideo in Helena infula laudatiffimum.
Eft autem frutex humi fe fpargens drodrantalibus ramulis
folio fimili Sarpillo. Plin. Hifi. I. 21. c. 10. [d] Aunée.
grow
A
Vôl.I.
WELL
།
ལ་ ས་
Isle of JOURA
ן
anciently gyara
Pag
Pag.263
612
Deſcription of the Island of Joura. 27
grow in Macronifi: the [c] After with white Phlo-
mos-leaves might be fufpected to be the firſt Sort
of Helenium of Diofcorides, if the Structure of its
Root correfponded better with the Defcription
this Author makes of it. This After is common
enough at Macronifi.
Being apprehenfive of two Inconveniencies in
this Iſland, namely, Banditti and Famine, we
tarry'd but 24 Hours in it: and happy was it
we returned to Zia, for from the 8th of Novem-
ber to the 21ft, the Weather was fo very tem-
peftuous, we had certainly perished in that
wretched Place, not having brought with us
above five or fix Days Provifion: fo we got
away as ſoon as poffible to Zia, from whence we
could not fet forward before the 21ft of Novem-
ber, and thence we fteer'd to Joura.
JOURA,
GYARA.
The Romans knew what they did,
when they baniſh'd Offenders to this rYAPO.
Ifland [d]: there is not a more dif- GYARUS,
agreeable barren place in all the Ar-
chipelago, not fo much as a Plant of any curiofity:
we found nothing but huge Field-mice, perhaps
of the Race of thofe that forced away the Inha-
bitants, as Pliny [e] reports. Some [f] Authors,
to ſet forth the Wretchedneſs of the Country,
made no ſcruple to fay that theſe Creatures were
forced to gnaw the Iron juft as 'twas drawn out
of the Mines. This fhews there were Iron Mines
in Joura, and truly the Soil looks diſmal enough
to confirm it.
[4]
Joura at this day is intirely abandoned, and
affords not any Footſteps of Antiquity: 'tis true,
[c] After tomentofus, Verbafci folio. H. R. P.
Aude aliquid brevibus Gyaris & carcere dignum. Juv.
Sat. [e] Hift. Nat. lib. 3. cap 29.
[] An-
tigon. Carift. Narrat. Mirab. c. 21.
Aufc. Ælian. Hift. Anim. lib. 5. cap. 14.
Arift. lib. de Mirab.
Steph. Byzant.
it
28 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
it was ever poor. [g] Strabo found in it but one
Village, and that inhabited by none but beggar-
ly Fiſhermen, one of whom was deputed to
Auguftus, to obtain a Diminution of their Tri-
bute fet at 150 Deniers. We recollected the
Idea of this Mifery at fight of three ghaftly
Shepherds, who had been ftarving there ten or
twelve days: they look'd as if they had been cut
down from a Gibbet: they came to us, and
without any Ceremony fell to rummaging our
Caick for Bisket, which they ſwallow'd, hard
as 'twas, without ever chewing; confeffing they
were forced to eat their Meat without either
Bread or Salt, fince the Badnefs of the Weather
had prevented their Maſters, the Burghers of
Syra, from fending them their ufual Allowance.
Foura is but 12 Miles about, and Pliny well
knew the Compafs of it: it is 12 miles from
Syra, coafting it, and 18 from Zia from one
Cape to the other; but above 25, to go from
the Port of Zia to the Creek of Joura, whoſe
Entrance is between the South and South-fouth-
eaft, near the ugly Rock of Glaronifi, or the
Ile of Cormorants.
In the Map of Greece done from M. Baudrand,
there's mention of the Ifle of Joura, placed be-
tween Syra and Andros, and much larger than
the firft of thoſe Iſlands: in all probability they
meant the Joura we're fpeaking of; yet the Au-
thor of that Map fets down another Joura near
Delos, where 'tis certain there's no fuch place.
He put Tragonifi and Stapodia juft by Nicaria,
tho' Tragonifi is that he calls Rocho, a mile from
Mycone, and Stapodia fix miles farther, and above
thirty miles off Nicaria. 'Tis a common thing
for Geographers to add to the Creation, and
form imaginary Countries, not of God Almighty's
[g] Rer. Geog. lib. 10.
making.
Defcription of the Iſland of Joura. 29
making. The fame Author marks round Milo
ſeparately the Inles of Rencomilo and Antimilo,
tho' they are only two Names of the fame place,
called Rencomilo by the Greeks, and Antimilo by
the Franks. There's no Ifland of Caura between
Zia and Andros, unleſs it be perhaps a finall Rock
just by Port Gaurio of the Island of Andros,
called Gaurionifi. I could not find the Ifle Ca
mera, placed by this Author between Nio and
Nanfio; he calls Sikino that which he fhould have
called Policandro: the Ile of Sicandro not being
known in the Archipelago, 'tis likely it was
ſwallow'd up by the Sea. I fay nothing of the
Situation of the Iflands or their Towns, which
for the moſt part are topfy-turvy in this Map,
and much worfe in that of Sophianus. That of
the Mediterranean Sea by M. Berthelot, Profeffor
of Hydrography at Marſeilles, is the beſt that
has yet been publiſhed, efpecially for the Lati-
tudes. M. Berthelot is an ingenious Man, and
rectifies his Maps every day from the Journals of
Pilots; however, as Men often go from one
place to another by different Winds, 'tis not
furprizing there fhould be fomething to be chang'd
in the Pofition of fome Iflands, eſpecially in the
Contours of the Coafts of the firm Land. The
Ifle of Scio and Cape Carabouron are very well
mark'd there; but there's fomething wrong in
the Iſle of Meteline, and the Terra-firma of Afia.
The Archipelago of Mark Bofchini is full of faults,
as well as the Charts of that Sea done in Italy.
The Plans of Towns by Bofchini are no better
than thofe of Porcachi. To make a good Chart
of the Mediterranean, a Man fhould follow the
Defign of the Flambeau de la Mer, printed in
Helland in 1705. and ſtick to the Chart of M.
Berthelot for the Latitudes: thefe are two valua-
ble Performances. M. de Lifle, of the Academy
Royal
30 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
Royal of Sciences, has newly publiſhed an ex-
cellent Chart of the Archipelago, from the Me-
moirs of feveral Perfons who have been perfo
nally there being an able Cofmographer and
fkilful Aftronomer, he has corrected their Ob-
fervations with great exactnefs, and redress'd
many things with refpect to antient Geography.
Theſe are the Reflections we made at Joura
in the night-time, as we lay in a ruinated
Chapel, where we durft not fleep for fear the
Field-mice ſhould come and gnaw our Ears; ſo
we did not wait till Day to be going over to
Andros.
ANDROS.
ANDRUS.
Andros, which Pliny fets down to
be ten miles off Caryfto, and thirty nine ANAPOZ.
from Zia, had many [b] Names an-
tiently. [i] Paufanias fays, that of Andros was
given it by Andreus; and Andreus, according to
[k] Diodorus Siculus, was one of the Generals
whom Rhadamanthus appointed in this Ifland;
which made a free Gift of itſelf to him, in like
manner as moſt of the neighbour Inlands.
[1] Conon carries the Genealogy farther, and
tells us that this fame Andreus or Andrus was
Son of Anius, and that Anius was Son of Apollo
and Creufa. The Inland we're fpeaking of, was
named Antendros, [m] becauſe, fays he, Afcanius,
Son of Eneas, who was its Lord, gave it in
ranfom to the Pelafgians, whofe Priſoner he was.
Stephens the Geographer fays nothing particular
of Andros, only he doubts whether Andrus was
Son of Eurymachus or of Anius his Brother.
[6] Antandros, Cauros, Lafia, Nonagria, Hydruffa, Epa-
gris. Plin. Hift. 1. 4 c. 12.
[i] Phocic. [4] Bib-
liot. Hift. lib. 5.
[/] Narrat.
[1] Αντὶ ἑνός ἀπός,
pro uno Viro.
The
C
T
136.2.
An Ancient Port).
ANDROS
ގނއ
7
.205.
Defcription of the Island of Andros. gi
The Ile of Andros ftretches from North to
South, and is but eighteen miles from Joura; but
above thirty from one Port to another. We
arrived the 22d of November at the Port of the
Caftle, the chief Town of the Iſland; the Greeks
call it the lower Caftle, [n] to diftinguish it
from the upper Caſtle, ten miles diftant. The
old Marble Monuments of this lower Caſtle
ſhew plainly it was built on the Ruins of fome
antient and ſtately Town; perhaps by the Lords
of Andros, who chofe this place for their Refi-
dence, and who built there a Fort on the Point
of Land which feparates the Port in two. The
Entrance of the Port is between the North and
Eaft-north-eaſt; but 'tis only fit for ſmall Veffels.
The Gentry think themſelves fecure from the
Corfairs in this Caftle; more than that, it is the
moſt agreeable and fertile part of the Iſland.
Going out of this Burgh, you enter one of
the fineſt Champagnes in the World; on the left
is the Plain of [o] Livadia, i. e. agreeable Spot:
it is planted with Orange, Lemon, Mulberry,
Jujeb, Pomegranate, and Fig-trees; nothing is
to be ſeen but Gardens and Rivulets. The
Cabbage called [p] Chou-rave is very common,
as in all the other Iflands; 'tis the fame with
that which at Paris they call Chou de Siam, fince
the Ambaffadors of Siam came to the Court of
France, tho' this Plant was long before known
in Europe.
On the right hand of the Caſtle of Andros
you enter the Valley of Megnitez, as pleaſant as
the other, and water'd with thofe pretty Springs
which come from about the Madona of Cumulo,
a noted Chapel above the Valley: thefe Springs
[»] Cato-caftro, Apano-caftro, or Corti.
Anbadári, Pratum, loca amcena.
lodes, C. B. Pin.
[ο] Λιβάδι,
Bratlica Gongy-
turn
32
A VOYAGE into the Levant.
turn eight or nine Mills; one of the moſt con-
fiderable of them iffues from the fame Rock as
makes part of the Chapel.
The other Villages of the Ifland are,
Melfi,
Curelli,
Arna, Lardia,
Strapurias,
Pitrofo,
Amelocho, Gianiftes,
La Pichia,
Megnitez, Atinati, Gridia,
Livadia,
Lamiro,
Vouni, Pifcopio,
Merta Chorio,
Apfilia,
Caftaniez, Capraria,
Aladina,
Steniez,
Cochilu, Aipatia.
Falica,
Vurcorti,
The Village of Arna is built in ſeparate Cluf-
ters, adorn'd with Plane-trees and ftreaming Ri-
vulets: to go to it, you croſs the higheſt Moun-
tain of the Inland. Both it and Amelocho are in-
habited by none but Albanois, ftill drefs'd in the
Mode of their Country, and continuing to live
fo; i. e. without Faith or Law. The Turks
engaged 'em to come hither, where are ſcarce
4000 Souls: the Lands look'd to be well manured.
Pliny makes this Iſland to be but 93 miles about,
the Inhabitants fay 'tis 120.
The principal Riches of Andros confiſt in Silk:
tho' 'tis good for nothing but to make Tapeſtry,
no more than that of Thermia, Caryfto, and Volo,
yet does it fetch a Crown and a half per pound
on the fpot: they make above 10,000 pound per
ann. Perhaps if it were well prepared, it might
ferve for Stuffs, Ribbands, and Sewing-work.
The Inland yields Wine and Oil enough for the
Inhabitants: Barley is in much greater plenty
than Wheat, which they are often forced to
fetch from Volo. The Mountains of Andros are
cover'd with Arbute-trees in many places: the
Fruit thereof they diftil to make Brandy: the
black Mulberries yield alfo a fiery Spirit, not
difa-
Defcription of the Island of Andros. 33
diſagreeable, and they feed the Silk-worms with
the Leaves of this Mulberry. The Pomegranates
are exquifite: you may have a hundred for [q]
Three-pence: Lemons are almoft as cheap, and
fo are Citrons [r].
The Cadi refides in the Caſtle, with the Gen-
try of the Country and the Adminiſtrators: one
or two of thefe latter are created every year.
The Ifle paid 15,000 Crowns to the Capitation
and Land-tax in 1700.
We went and paid our Refpects to the Aga
Commandant of the Ifland: he lives in an old
ſquare Tower, to which you go up by fourteen
ſtone Steps, whereon is placed a wooden Ladder
of the fame length, directly anfwering to the
Door-fill: upon the leaſt apprehenfion of Corfairs
on the Coaft, the Ladder is drawn up, and the
Fire-locks prepared to give 'em a Reception.
The Aga's Tower is out of town: we found him
much indifpofed. He took very kindly a Preſent
we made him, namely, a Crystal Bottle full of
a volatile, aromatick, oily Spirit, proper to
eafe him in his Afthmatick Fits. The whole
Ifland is full of fuch-like Towers, where the
moft [s] Subftantial make their abode: they are
ftrong, and have only Dormer-windows and
Sky-lights, as in Dungeons of Prifons.
The Inhabitants of this Ifland are all of the
Greek Communion, except Meffieurs de la Gram-
matica, two very rich Brothers, and very zealous
for the Latin Church: in their Chapel it is that
the Conful of France hears Mafs. The Latin
Biſhop has but 300 [t] Crowns a year. Some
time ago a fad Accident befel him: as he was
[q] Two Parats.
tuberofo. C. B. Pin.
χοντάκης, Αρέντης pro
[1] Τριαντάφυλλα.
[] Malus medica fructu ingenti
[3] Αργος, Αρχοντας, Αρα
Αυθέντης; Nobilis Dominus, &c.
D
paffing
34
A VOYAGE into the Levant.
paffing over from Andros to Naxia, the place of
his Birth, with his Robes and Church-plate, he
was taken by the Turks, ftript, baſtinado'd, put
in the Gallies, and was fain to pay 500 Crowns
for his Deliverance: he never could difcover the
leaſt colour of reaſon for their ferving him fo.
The Greek Biſhop has 500 Crowns a Year, and
many comfortable Additions in this Ifland, which
is fo well ftock'd with Papas and Caloyers: its
chief Monafteries are Crufo Pigni, Panacrado, and
San Nicolo Soras. And yet fuch is the Ignorance
of theſe Religious, that the Burghers were ob-
liged, for the Education of their Children, to
recall the Capuchins. Signior Nicolo Condoftalvo,
a rich Merchant of Andros now at Venice, con-
tributed a hundred Crowns towards rebuilding
their Convent, and fettled fixty Ducats a Year
for ever towards its Maintenance, befides the
Preſent he made 'em of the Sacerdotal Veftments,
and the Plate for Divine Service. M. Nicolachi
de la Grammatica, and fome other Lords of the
Country, tho' of the Greek Perfuafion, have like-
wife been confiderable Benefactors to the Church
of theſe good Fathers dedicated to St. Bernardin,
but not made uſe of theſe fifty Years paft. What
M. Thevenot relates concerning the Proceffion on
Corpus Chrifti Day in Andros, is ftill practifed there;
viz. that the Latin Bishop, who carries the Body
of our Lord, treads upon the Necks of the
Chriſtians that proftrate themſelves in the Streets,
of whatever Communion they be. The Jefuits
had a good Hoſpital in this Ifland, but they
were forced to quit it fome Years ago through
the Oppreffion of the Turks.
The 27th of November we went to ſee the
Ruins of Paleopolis, two Miles from Arna, to the
South-fouth-weft, beyond Port Gaurio. This Town,
which bore the Name of the Iſland, as we are
told
Defcription of the land of Andros. 35
told by [u] Herodotus and [x] Galen, was very
large, and fituated advantageoufly on the Brow
of a Hill that commands the whole Coaſt: there
are ſtill to be ſeen the Reliques of a very folid
Wall, eſpecially in a certain remarkable place,
where ftood belike the Citadel mentioned by
[y] Livy. Here are fine Columns, Chapiters,
Baſes, and fome Infcriptions, fome of which
ſpeak of the Senate, People of Andros, and
Priefts of Bacchus; which made me fancy the
faid Infcription was placed either on the Walls,
or in the famous Temple of that Deity, and
confequently that it might point out the Situation
of that Fabrick.
Advancing among thefe Ruins, we lit on a
Figure of Marble, without Head and Arms:
its Trunk was three foot ten Inches high, and
the Drapery very fine. On the Side of a ſmall
Brook that ſupplied the Town with Water, we
obſerved two more Trunks of Marble Statues,
which diſcover'd the mafterly Hand of the
Carver: this Brook put me in mind of the Spring
called [x] Jupiter's Prefent, but we could not
find it out: it may be bury'd among thefe Ruins,
or perhaps this is the very Brook that went by
that Name. Be that as it will, this Spring,
according to the Report of Mutianus, had the
Taſte of Wine in January [a]; and could not be
far off, fince Pliny [b] places it near the Temple
of Bacchus, mentioned in the above Infcription.
The fame Author fays this Miracle laſted ſeven Days,
and that this Wine became Water, upon being
carried out of the View of the Temple. Paufanias
makes no mention of this Occurrence; but ad.
[u] Lib. 8.
[y] Lib. 31. c. 48.
Nat. lib. 2. c. 103.
Nat. lib. 31. C. 2.
[x] De Simpl. Med. Facul. lib. 9.
[2] Διὸς Θεοδόσια. Plin. Hift.
[e] Non! Jan. [6] Hift.
D2
vances,
36 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
vances, that it was the general Belief, that every
Year during the Feafts of Bacchus, Wine flow'd
from the Temple of that God in Andros: the
Priefts, no doubt, took care to keep up this
Belief, by conveying a quantity of Wine through
fecret Canals.
The Port Gaurio is hard by theſe Ruins to the
South-eaft, and may contain a large Fleet. [c]
Alcibiades put in there with a Fleet of a hundred
Ships: he took and fortified the Caftle of Gaurium,
whence comes the Word Gaurio or Gabrio. The
Andrians withſtood the Athenians with all their
Forces, joined with the Succours they had re-
ceived from Peloponnefus; but they were beaten,
and conftrained to fhelter themſelves within the
Walls of their Town; which Alcibiades not be-
ing able to take, went and ravaged the Iſlands
of Rhodes and Cos, after he had left a ftrong
Garriſon in the Caftle of Gaurium, commanded
by Thrafybulus. This was not the firſt time the
Athenians had vifited the Ifle of Andros: The-
mistocles had humbled the Andrians fome Years
before; for they having been a long time under
the Dominion of the Naxiots, were the firſt that
took party with the Perfians, whofe Fleet had
reduced almoſt the whole Archipelago [d]. The
Greeks confederating, refolved to attack the
Town of Andros, and Themistocles not being able
to levy Contributions on it, laid formal Siege to
it: he being an excellent Soldier, as well as a
rare Wit, order'd the Commandants of the Place
to be told, that the Athenians had brought with
them two mighty Deities, Perfuafion and Neceffity;
and therefore he muſt have ſome of their Money
by fair means or by foul. They made anfwer,
that truly for their parts they had no other Dei-
ties but Poverty and Impoffibility. The Town,
[<] Diod. Sic. Biblioth. Hift. lib. 13.
[d] Lib. 5, & 8.
it
Defcription of the Iſland of Andros. 37
it is like, was taken by Storm, and the Island
roughly treated, fince [f] Pericles fome time af-
terwards fent thither a Colony of 250 Men;
whereas the Andrians were accuſtom❜d to fend Co-
lonies abroad into Thrace on the fide of Amphipolis,
fubdu'd by Brafidas a Lacedemonian Captain [g].
Ptolemy [b], the firſt of the Name, being re-
folv'd to free the Towns of Greece, [i] travers'd
the whole Archipelago with a ftrong Naval Force,
and obliged the Garriſon of Andros, then engaged
on the fide of Antigonus, to furrender themſelves,
and quit the place: whereby he reſtored that
Town to its priftine Liberty.
Attalus King of Pergamus laid fiege to Andros
with a Roman Army, which landed at Port Gaurio,
call'd Gauroleon by Livy [k]: the Town made no
great reſiſtance, and the Garriſon retiring into the
Citadel, capitulated three days after. The Romans
had all the Plunder: Attalus had the Iſland for
his ſhare, which to prevent the difpeopling of, he
perfuaded the Macedonians that were prefent, and
the Natives, to continue there. The Romans,
upon the death of that Prince, being Heirs to all
his Poffeffions, kept the Ifland till the Greek Em-
perors got it from 'em.
[1] Andros furrender'd to Alexis Comnenes, in
his return from Italy to implore the Succour of
the Crufaders towards re-inthroning John Angelo
Comnenes his Father, [m] who was difpoffefs'd,
impriſon'd, and depriv'd of Sight by his Brother
Alexis Comnenes Andronicus. Some time after the
taking of Conftantinople, Marinus Dandalo feiz'd
the Iſland of Andros: it was [n] afterwards pof-
fefs'd by the Houſe of Zeno, and given in Dower
[f] Plutarch. in Pericl. [g] Diod. Sic. Biblioth. Hiſt.
lib. 12. [b] Lagus. [i] Diod. Sic. ibid. lib. 20.
[m] Du Cange Hift. of the
[n] Idem, b. 2.
C.
[/]
Lib. 31. c. 45·
Emp. of Conft. 6, 1.
1203.
[k]
D 3
to
38
A VOYAGE into the Levant.
to Cantiana Zeno eſpous❜d to Courfin de Sommerive,
as is obſerv'd by Father Sauger [0], in the Life of
Fames Crifpo eleventh Duke of Naxia. Courfin,
the third of the Name, and feventh Lord of An-
dros, was ftript by Barbaroffa; but at the So-
licitation of the Ambaffador of France, Solyman
II. reinftated him in his Domains. John Francis“
de Sommerive was the laft Lord of this Ifland;
and his Subjects of the Greek Communion, after
attempting to affaffinate him, gave themſelves
up to the Turk, that they might intirely get rid
of the Yoke of the Latins.
Port Gaurio is the beſt Port of the Ifland,
and the Venetians come thither to refreſh when
they are at War with the Turks. Over againſt it
is a very long Range of Rocks call'd Gaurioniſi :
perhaps the Ille call'd Caura by Baudrand. Night
coming on, hinder'd us from fearching after the
Veftigia of the Caſtle of Gaurium.
We were forced to lie at the Monaſtery of the
Virgin [p], an ordinary piece of Building, tho'
the Monks are very rich. They have laid aſide
a good Cuſtom which they had in M. Thevenot's
time, that is to fay, feafting of Paffengers: we
muſt have fafted whether we would or no, but
for M. Gafparachi, who fent us half a Sheep,
with fome excellent Wine and other Refreſh-
ments. Next Day we faw at Mafs abundance
of Albanois Women finely drefs'd, much beyond
the Greek Women, who don't drefs near fo
well as any of theſe Iſlanders. The Women of
Andros ftuff their Coats with great Rolls of Cloth,
which makes 'em look like a Fardingale.
The Weather beginning to be cold, and the
Sea rougher every Day than other, we went
over to Tinos, in order to withdraw to Mycone,
and wait there for better Weather. The Archi-
[o] Hiftory of the Dukes of the Archipelago. [p]´Ayia.
pelago
Pag. 27!
ANDROS.
Mes
TINE
Vol. I.
Isle of TINE anciently call'd TENOS.
ос
*011
D.272.
64
Deſcription of the Iſland of Tinos. 39
pelago is very dangerous in Winter. Dionyfius
[9] the Geographer had juft reaſon to ſay there
is no Sea toffes its Waves higher, becauſe, as he
very well obferves, being full of Iſlands, the
Waves daſhing againſt them with impetuofity,
muft create a great agitation: and, as Hefychius
fays, [r] the Surges refemble fo many Goats.
skipping and bounding the Fields.
'Tis but a Mile, as Pliny obferves, from Andros
to Tinos: we crofs'd over the firft of December in a
Caick; for by reaſon of the fix Rocks that are in
the middle of the Canal, large Veffels can't pafs.
It is forty Miles from the Port of the Caſtle of
Andros to that of St. Nicolo of Tinos, where we
arrived not till Seven in the Evening; and the
Officers refufing at that Hour to take the trouble
to peruſe our Certificate of Health, or to ſend to
the Conful of France, we were fain to lie in our
Boat: they were indeed fo civil, as to make us an
offer of the Lazaretto, in company of fome
Slaves who were devour'd with Vermin.
Next Day the Conful of France diſpatch'd a
Viewer to the Fortreſs, to his Excellency M. Lewis
Cornaro, Proveditore of the Ifland, who granted
us what they call the Pratique, i. e. Licence to
come aſhore.
ΤΗΝΟΣ
The Ifle of Tine was antiently call'd TIN E.
Tinos, according to Stephens the Geo-TENUS.
grapher, from one Tenos who firſt
peopled it. Herodotus fays, it was part of the Em-
pire of the Cyclades, which the Naxiots poffefs'd
in Days of yore. Mention is made of the Teni-
ans among the People of Greece, who had fur-
[2] — ἔνθα τὸ κῦμα της όμθυον νησοισι, πειβρέμεται
Σποράδεςςιν. Ου γάρ τις κείνῳ ευαλικία κύματα οφέλλει.
Ver. 131, 132, 133. [+] Αιγες τὰ κύματα Δωριες.
Hefych.
~
D 4
niſh'd
40
AVOYAGE into the Levant.
;
nish'd Troops at the Battle of Platea, where
Mardonius, General of the Perfians, was worſted
and the Names of all theſe People were graved
on the right hand of a Baſis of Jupiter's Statue,
looking Eaſtward. By the Infcription quoted by
Paufanias [s], the People of this Ifland fhould
ſeem to be at that time equal in Power to thoſe
of Naxos, if not fuperior. [] And yet thofe of
Tenos, the Andrians, and moſt of the other Iſland-
ers, whofe Interefts were interwoven, being fright-
en'd at the exorbitant Power of the Orientals,
made no heſitation in fiding with them: Xerxes
made uſe of them, and of the People of the
Ifland of Eubea, to recruit his Army. The ma-
ritime Strength of the Tincans is noted in a very
old Medal [u], ftruck with the Head of Neptune,
revered in an eſpecial manner here: the Reverſe
repreſents the Trident of that God, accompany'd
with a couple of Dolphins. Goltzius likewife
fpeaks of two Medals of Tenos with the fame
Type. Triftanus [x] too, mentions a filver Medal
of the Tenians with Neptune's Head, and a Tri-
dent for the Reverſe.
The Borough of St Nicolo, built on the Ruins
of the antient City of Tenos, inſtead of a Harbour,
has nothing but a forry Creek looking to the South,
from whence you defcry the Iſland of Syra to the
South-fouth-west. Tho' there are not above 150
Houfes in the place, yet the Name of Polis,
which it ftill retains, and the feveral Medals and
Monuments of Marble that are from time to
time dug up there, permit us not to doubt its
having been the Capital of the Island. Strabo [y]
Lays, it was no great City, but that there was a
very handſom Temple of Neptune in an adjoin-
ing Grove: this Temple had an Afylum, the
[t] Herod. lib. 8. [+] ΤΗΝΙΩΝ.
[x] Comment. Hift. tom. 2.
[] Eliac. prior.
Spon. Voyag. tom. 3.
Rer. Geog. lib. 10.
[]
Privi
Defcription of the Iland of Tinos. 41
Privileges whereof were regulated by Tiberius, [y]
as were likewiſe thoſe of the moft eminent Tem-
ples of the Levant. Philocorus, cited by Clemens
Alexandrinus [z], relates, that Neptune was honour'd
in Tenos as a great Phyfician; and the fame is con-
firm'd by fome Medals. The King has one, men-
tion'd by Triſtanus [a] and Patin: the Head is of
Alexander Severus, on the Reverſe is a Trident with
a Snake wreathing about it, the Emblem of Phy-
fick with the Antients: befides, this Ifland was
call'd the [6] Snake-ifland.
It is fixty Miles in circuit, and ſtretches from
North-north-weft to South-fouth-eaft, full of bald
Mountains, but the beſt manured of any in the
Archipelago. All its Fruit is excellent; Melons,
Figs, Grapes: the Vine thrives there to admira-
tion, and has doubtlefs fo done a long time; for
M. Vaillant [c] fpeaks of a Medal ftruck with the
Legend of this Ifland, on the Reverſe whereof is
a Bacchus, holding in his Right Hand a Bunch of
Grapes, and a Thyrfus in his left; the Head is
of Antoninus Pius. The Medal [d] M. Spon
bought here, is more antient: on one fide is the
Head of Jupiter Ammon, and on the other a
Bunch of Grapes. They fow but little Wheat in
this Ifland, tho' a great deal of Barley.
The Fig-trees of Tinos are very low and branchy:
the Olives come up very well, but there are not
many of 'em: they fetch their Wood and Sheep
from Andros. The Country is agreeable, and well
water'd with Springs, which occafion'd the An-
tients [e] to call it Hydruffa, as they did moſt of
the Iſlands abounding with Springs. We took no-
tice before, that it went by the name of Snake-
ifland, and Hefychius [f] of Meletus tells us, that
[] Tacit. Annal. lib. 3. cap. 60, and 63. [x] Admon-
ad Gentes. [a] Comment. Hift. tom. 2. THNIÓN.
[6] Ophiuffa. Plin. [c] Numifm. Græc. [d] TH. [e] Steph.
[] Trift. Comment. Hift. tom. 2.
Neptune
· 42
A VOYAGE into the Levant.
Neptune made uſe of Storks to clear the Iſland of
'em: whether that be fo or not, 'tis certain no
Snakes are now to be feen there.
The Riches of Tinos confift at prefent in its
Silk: they get 16,000 pound weight every year:
when we were there, it was worth a Sequin [f] per
pound; fometimes it rifes to three Crowns: our
Countrymen bought up the greateſt part. Tho'
the Silk of this place is the beſt prepared of any
in Greece, yet it is not fine enough for Stuffs, but
very fit for fewing and to make Ribbands. The
Silk Stockings of this Iſland are very good, but
nothing can compare in beauty with the Gloves
which are knit here for the Ladies. They who
ſhip off Silk for Venice, pay no Duties of Export:
they give Security to pay the Duties, if it fhall
be diſcover'd that the Silk was carry'd to any other
place: the reaſon is, this Commodity paying the
Duties of Import at Venice, it would in fuch cafe
pay twice in the Territories of that Republick.
The Fortreſs of Tinos is on a Rock that over-
looks the Country, and is ftronger by Nature
than Art: the Guard of it is committed to four-
teen ſhabby Soldiers, ſeven of them are French De-
ferters we counted about forty Braſs Cannon here,
and two or three Iron. The beſt People of the Iſland
dwell here, tho' there are not above 500 Houſes,
which are much incommoded by the North-wind,
as cutting as at Paris. The Proveditore's Palace
is a forry Building: it is impoffible for any Marble
to continue long here, becauſe of the continual
Moiſture occafion'd by the Fogs, and the Chinks
of the Terraces. The Jefuits are well lodg'd,
but their Church is too little to hold one half of
their Votaries. Father Prati, Superior of the
Houſe, gave us a genteel Reception, and we had
the pleaſure to dine with the Fathers Forefti, Ca-
[F] The Sequin is worth two Crowns and a half.
muti,
Deſcription of the Island of Tinos. 43
tend us.
muti, and Federic. His Excellency, whom we
waited on, to pay our Refpects to him, invited us
likewiſe to Dinner, and offer'd us Guards to at-
M. Antonio Betti, one of the moſt
noted Lawyers of Tinos, lent us his Houfe in the
[g] Suburbs without the Fortress, where there are
not above 150 Houfes; but then you have free
Egrefs and Regrefs at any hour, whereas the
Gates of the Fortreſs are fhut early, and open'd
late.
Befides the Fortreſs of St. Nicolo, the chief
Villages of this Iſland are,
П Campo,
Cifternia,
Cigalado,
Il Terebado,
Cardiani,
Agapi,
Lotra
Difado,
Volacos,
Lazaro,
Mondado, Fallatado,
Peraftra,
Maftro-mercato, Meſſi,
Cumi,
Micrado,
Muofulu,
Carcado,
Carea,
Stigni,
Cataclifma,
Filipado,
Potamia,
Aitofolia,
Comiado,
Cacro,
Chilia,
Arnado,
Triandaro,
Doui Caftelli,
Diocarea,
Cicalada,
Oxomeria, contain- Pergado,
ing 5 Boroughs, Cazerado,
viz. Pyrgos, Va- Cuticado,
calado, Cozonari, Smordea,
Bernardado, and Cozonara,
Platia;
Tripotamo,
Sclavo-corio,
Croic,
Monafterio.
The Proveditore's Poft does not bring him in
above 2000 Crowns, and therefore at Venice they
look on it as a Place of Mortification: he has
the Tenth of all Wares, except Silk, for which
he has about three Crowns every Hundred-
weight, if it be bound for any Place befides
Venice; otherwife, nothing at all.
[g] Il Borgo.
The
44 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
The Bishop of Tinos has 300 Crowns a year
fettled Income, and 200 Crowns the Emolu-
ments of his Church; his Clergy too are a
notable Body, and amount to above 120 in
Number. The Greeks have full 200 Papas, fub-
ject to a Protopapas; but they have never a
Biſhop of their Communion, and in many things
are dependent on the Latin Biſhop: a Greek can't
be a Prieſt till this Bishop has examin'd him.
After the Candidate has upon Oath acknowledg'd
the Pope and the Apoftolick Roman Church, the
Latin Biſhop gives him his Dimiffory Letter, in
cafe he be 25 Years old; then he is confecrated
by fome Greek Bifhop from an adjacent Ifland,
to whom he allows ten or twelve Crowns for his
Voyage. On the Day of Confecration the new
Prieſt gives three Pound of Silk to the Provedi-
tore, the like to the Latin Biſhop, and a Crown
and a half to the Protopapas, who had given his
Atteftation as to his Morals.
In all Proceffions, and Ecclefiaftical Functions
the Latin Clergy have the Precedence: whenever.
the Greek Priefts enter the Latin Churches in a
Body, they uncover their Heads according to
the Cuftom of the Latins, which they do not in
their own Churches. When Mafs is faid in pre-
fence of both Bodies of Clergy, after the Latin
Sub-deacon has fung the Epiftle, the fecond Dig-
nitary of the Greek Clergy fings it in Greek; and
when the Latin Deacon has fung the Gofpel, the
firſt Greek Dignitary, or the Chief of the Priefts,
fings likewife the Gofpel in Greek. In all the
Greek Churches of the Iland there's one Altar
for the Latin Priefts: they have full Liberty in
the Greek Church to preach on any Controver-
fial Subjects between them and the Latins.
In the Latin Churches none but fimple Chap-.
lains are amovable at pleaſure of the Bishop.
Qne
Vol.I.
Women of the Isle of
TINE.
Pag. 275
Defcription of the Island of Tinos. 45
7
One Nuncio Vaftelli, a Surgeon of Malta, having
acquired an Eſtate at Tinos, and being without
Iffue of his own, adopted the Recolet Friars [b],
and built them a Church and Convent in the
Country: thefe Fathers are exceedingly beloved,
but they have not many Houſes in the Levant.
The Wives of Citizens and Peafants are drefs'd
after the Venetian manner, the other like the
Candiot Women.
As for what concerns the Hiſtory of this Iſland,
your Lordship knows it is the fole Conqueft re-
maining to the Venetians, of all that they won
under the Latin Emperors of Conftantinople.
Andrew Gizi, from whom is defcended the Sieur
Fanachi Gizi, whom you have made Conful of
this Ifland and that of Mycone, fubdu'd Tinos
about the Year 1207, and the Republick has en-
joy'd it ever fince, in fpite of the Turks. It was
indeed very near being taken by that Barbaroffa,
who in 1537 reduced almoſt all the Archipelago
for Solyman II. Andrea Morofini fays it furrender'd
without ftriking a ftroke, of which being foon
after afhamed, they fent to the Proveditore of
Candia for Succours, with whofe help they drove
out their new Mafters. They don't tell the
Story exactly in the fame Manner at Tinos: Bar-
baroffa, they tell you, fo ftraiten'd the Garrison,
that they beat a Parley; but the Gentry per-
ceiving none but the Inhabitants of the Towns
of Arnado, Triandaro, and Doui Çaftelli, difpos'd
to capitulate, fell upon the Turks fo vigorously,
they were forced to raiſe the Siege: they add,
that the Soldiers of the Garriſon, in their Fury,
blew up the Officer, whom the Captain-bafhaw
had fent to regulate the Articles of Capitulation.
Ever fince, by way of reproach to the Inha-
bitants of theſe three Villages, the first of May
[b] Zoccolanti.
the
46
AVOYAGE into the Levant.
the Proveditore, accompany'd with the Peafants
and Feudatories of the Republick, follow'd by
the Militia with the Standard of St. Mark,
marches on Horfeback to the Church on the
Mountain of Cecro; and there after thrice crying
aloud, St. Mark for ever! there is great firing of
fmall Arms: then they go to dancing, and con-
clude with a Banquet. The Feudatories who
fail to appear at this Ceremony, are fined a
Crown the firſt Time; and lofe their Fiefs for
ever, if they make default three Times.
Leunclavius [i] fays, that in 1570 the Empe-
ror Selim fent to demand of the Senate of Venice
the Reſtitution of the Ifle of Cyprus; and on their
Refufal, Pialis Captain-bafhaw made a Defcent
at Tinos, where he put all to Fire and Sword.
Morofini ſays [k], that in the fame Year the Turks
laid vigorous Siege to the Fortreſs of Tinos; that
Eva Mustapha landed 8000 Men there, and that
this was done at the Requeft of the Andrians;
but it miſcarry'd, becauſe the Proveditore Paruta
had made fuch Preparation to receive 'em, that
the Turks were conſtrain'd to raiſe the Siege and
be gone, after having burnt the faireft Villages
of the Ifland. Two Years after, they ravag'd
it the third Time, under the Command of
Cangi Alis.
Tho' the Venetians have no regular Troops in
this Iſland, yet in cafe of an Alarm they can at
the firft Signal get together above 5000 Men:
each Village maintains a Company of Militia,
furniſh'd with Arms at the Prince's Charge, and
frequently mufter'd and exercis'd. In the laft
War Mezomorto the Captain-bafhaw wrote to the
Proveditore, the Gentry, and the Clergy of the
Iſland, that he would deftroy Man, Woman,
and Child, unleſs they paid him the Capitation-
[i] Supplem. Annal. Turc. [k] Hift. Venet. lib. 9, & 11.
tax:
Defcription of the Iland of Tinos. 47
A
tax: he was told, he might come and fetch it;
and when he appear'd with his Gallies, the Pro-
veditore Moro, a good Soldier, march'd out of
the Intrenchments of St. Nicolo at the Head of
a thouſand Men, who with their brifk firing
prevented the Bafhaw's landing, and fent his
Gallies packing. To make a Conqueft of Tinos,
there needs no more than to amufe the Troops at
St. Nicolo while a Deſcent is carrying on at Pa-
lermo [], the beſt Port of the Ifland to the
North: Thefe Troops, which might ruin the
Country, and eaſily get Subfiftence from Andros,
would foon ftarve the Fortrefs, the only Bulwark
of the Ifland; for St. Nicolo is open on every
Side.
The Badneſs of the Weather hinder'd our
fimpling at Tinos; yet we took notice of fome
fine Plants, among others, that which yields the
Manna of Perfia: but we could not go ſee the
other Curiofities of the Inland, fuch as the Ca-
vern of Eolus, the Damfels Tower, the Reliques
of Neptune's Temple, the Madona Cardiani; hap-
py that we had crofs'd the Canal of Mycone,
where we arriv'd not without Danger of being
overfet. This confirm'd us in the Sentiment of
thofe, who fancy'd the Archipelago was call'd by
the Antients the Egean Sea, becauſe the leaft
Blaſt of Wind ſets the Waves a dancing like fo
many Goats, as has been faid before.
We fhall cloſe this Letter with the Geogra-
phical Station we made from the Top of the
Fortress of Tinos.
Joura Weit.
Syra South-weſt.
Andros between the North-weft and North-
north-weſt.
[] Palermo is derived from Пávoguos, Panhormus, a Port
for all forts of Shipping.
Paros
48 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
Paros South.
Delos between the South-fouth-eaft and the
South.
Scio between the North-eaft and the North-
north-eaſt.
Cape Carabouron North-eaſt.
Scala-nova Eaft-north-eaft.
Samos between the Eaft and Eaft-north-eaſt.
Nicaria Eaft.
Fourni Eaft-fouth-eaft.
Mycone South-eaft.
Amorgo between the South-eat and South-
fouth-eaft.
Naxia between the South-fouth-eaft and the
South.
I am, &c.
LETTER
[ 49 ]
LETTER II.
To Monfeigneur the Count de Pontchartrain,
Secretary of State, &c.
MY LORD,
TH
HE Hiftory of Scio is too vo-
Defcription
luminous to be brought into of the Islands
the Compaſs of a Letter: all that I of Scio. Me-
fhall therefore do at prefent, is to en- telin, Tene-
tertain you with what has occur'd dos, and Ni-
there in our Days, as likewife with a
plain Deſcription of the Iſland.
caria.
Antonio Zeno, Captain-general of the Venetian
Army, came before the Town of Scio on the
28th of April, 1694, with 14000 Men, and be-
gan to attack the Caſtle towards the Sea, the
only Place of Reſiſtance throughout the Country:
it held out but five Days, tho' defended by 800
Turks, and fupported by above 1000 Men well
arm'd, that might throw themfelves into it
without the leaft Oppofition to the Land-fide.
Next Year, Febr. 10. the [m] Venetians loft it with
the fame Eafe they had taken it, and precipi-
tately abandon'd it after the Overthrow of
their Naval Army in the Iflands of Spalmadori,
where the Captain-bafhaw Mezomorto command-
ed the Turkish Fleet. The Terror was fo great
in Scio, they left behind them their Ammunition
and Cannon; the Troops ran away in Diſorder,
and 'tis at this day a common Saying in the
Inland, That the Soldiers took every Fly to be a
Turbant.
[m] 'A¡ více: 'Oiscal. Herod. lib. 1. Thucyd. lib. 8.
E
The
50
A VOYAGE into the Levant.
The Turks enter'd it as a conquer'd Country:
but the Greeks very artfully threw all the Blame
on the Latins, tho' they had no hand in the
Irruption of the Venetians. They hang'd four of
the moſt eminent Perfons of the Latin Perfuafion,
and who had honourably bore the chief Offices;
Pierre Juftiniani, Francefco Drago Burghefi, Do-
menico Stella Burghefi, Giovanni Caftelli Burgheft.
The Latins were forbid to wear Hats; they were
alfo obliged to get fhaved, quit the Genoefe Ha-
bit, alight from their Horſe at the City Gate, and
reſpectfully falute the meaneft Mujulman: the
Churches were pull'd down, or turn'd into
Mofques; the Latin Biſhop Leonardo Baharini,
and above fixty of the beſt Families follow'd
the Venetians to the Morea, where died this Biſhop
fome time after he had been prefented to a new
Bishoprick: The Sufpicion which the Turks had
conceiv'd of him and the Latins favouring this
Expedition, was increas'd by the Marks of
Efteem the Venetians fhew'd this Prelate. Theſe
poor Latins, who, at the Inftigation of the Greeks,
are every day teiz'd with freſh Difputes, take all
very patiently, and affift very devoutly at Di-
vine Service in the French Vice-conful's Chapel,
which is a very large one and well ferv'd.
The publick Exerciſe of the Catholick Religion
was the moſt valuable Privilege the Sciots enjoy'd,
through the means of the Kings of France; but it
has been taken away under colour of Rebellion:
Divine Service was perform'd there with the fame
Ceremonies as in the Heart of Christendom itſelf.
The Priests bore the Holy Sacrament to the
Sick in full Liberty at Noon-day: the Procef-
fion of Corpus Chrifti was made with the utmoſt
Solemnity, the Clergy walking in their proper
Habits under Canopies, and bearing Centers in
their
Defcription of the Island of Scio. 51
their Hands in fine, the Turks ufed to call this
Inland Little Rome. Befides the Churches in the
Country, the Latins had ſeven in Town: the Ca-
thedral is converted into a Moſque, as alfo the
Church of the Dominicans; the Church of the
Jefuits, dedicated to St. Anthony, is turn'd into an
Inn; thofe of the Capuchins and the Recolets,
our Lady of Loretto, and that of St. Anne, are
pull'd down. The Capuchins had alfo within
500 Paces of the Town, the Church of St. Roch,
where they uſed to bury the French; but it has
fhared the fame Fate with the reft. The Coun-
try Churches were St. Joseph, two Miles diſtant
from the Town; Our Lady of the Conception, two
Miles and a half; St. James, a Quarter of a
Mile; the Madona, a Mile and a half; the Mo-
dona of Elifba, two Miles and a half; St. John,
half a Mile.
The Latin Fathers had likewiſe Liberty to fay
Mafs in ten or twelve Greek Churches, and fome
Gentlemen had Chapels in their Country Houſes.
The Bishop had an Allowance of 200 Crowns
from the Pope, befides confiderable Perquifites.
There are ftill at Scio 24 or 25 Priefts, without
reckoning the Religious of the French and Italian
Nations, who have loft their Convents. After
Scio was taken, the Turks affefs'd the Prieſts to
the Capitation-tax; but M. de Riants, Vice-
conful of France, got 'em exempted. The Nuns
are not cloiſter'd here, any more than in the
other Parts of the Levant: the Principal are of
the Order of St. Francis or St. Dominick, both
under direction of the Jefuits.
The Greek Biſhop is in very good Circumftan-
ces; he has above 300 Churches in Town, and
the whole Iſland is full of Chapels. The Greek
Monafteries there enjoy large Revenues; that of
St. Minas confifts of fifty Caloyers, and that of
E 2
St.
:
52
AVOYAGE into the Levant.
St. George of about twenty-five: the moſt confi-
derable is Neamoni [n], that is to fay, New Soli-
tude, fituated within five Miles of the Town : we
went thither the fifth of March, 1701. This Con-
vent pays 500 Crowns to the Capitation: it has
150 Caloyers, who never eat together but on
Sundays and Holy-days; the reft of the Week
they provide for themfelves as well as they can,
the Houſe allowing 'em nothing but Bread, Wine,
and Cheeſe fuch of 'em as have wherewithal,
live voluptuouſly, and keep their Horfes. This
Convent is very large, and looks more like a
Town than a Religious Houfe: it is faid to pof-
fefs an eighth part of the Revenue of the whole
Ifland, and has coming in above 50,000 Crowns
a Year Penny-rent. Over and above the conti-
nual Acquifitions by way of Legacies, there's not
a Caloyer but helps to enrich it: they not only
pay down 100 Crowns for their Admiffion, but
at their Death they muſt give all they are worth,
either to the Convent, or fome of their Kindred,
who can't inherit above a Third of it; nor that,
unleſs he becomes a Member of the fame Reli-
gious Community: thus have they found the
Secret of hedging in the whole. The Convent
is on a little Hill well manured, but very lonely,
amidſt huge Mountains very difagreeable to the
View.
Tho' the Church is dark, yet it is reckon'd
one of the beſt in all the Levant: it is intirely
Gothic, except the Moulds for the Arches: the
Paintings are fo horribly done, they'd frighten
you, in ſpite of the Gilding they are loaded with :
each Saint's Name is put at the bottom, leſt you
ſhould miſtake him for his Neighbour. The
Emperor Conftantine Monomachus, who, as the
Monks told us, caus'd this Church to be built,
[2] Neaµórn, New Solitude.
Defcription of the Island of Scio.
53
is painted there, with his Name to it. The Co-
lumns and Chapiters are Jafper, of the growth
of the Country, but clumfily difpos'd: the Stone
has no manner of Luftre: there's enough of it
about this Monaftery, but that which is employ'd
in this Church, was dug out of the antient Quar-
ries of the [o] Inland hard by the Town. Strabo
[p] has taken notice of theſe Quarries, and Pliny
fays, the firſt Jaſper was diſcover'd there. When
thefe Walls were raifing, Cicero happening to be
there, they ſhew'd him this Stone as a Curioſity;
he told 'em, [q] it was a beautiful Stone, but it
would be much more fo, if it came from Tivoli;
thereby infinuating, that they would be Mafters
of Rome if they had Trivoli, or that their Stone
would be more eſteem'd if it were far fetch'd.
In all likelihood it was here that Cicero was in-
form'd of a Satyr's Head found in thefe Quar-
ries, [r] naturally defcribed on one of thefe
Stones.
The Inhabitants of Scio agree that their Iſland
is 120 Miles about: Strabo makes it but 900
Stadia, that is, 112 Miles and a Half; Pliny
mounts it to 125,000 Paces. All this may be
true; for befides that the difference of theſe Mea-
fures is no great Matter, the meaſuring the Cir-
cumference of an Ifland is the leaft exact Method
for finding its Dimenfions, becauſe of the Ine-
quality of the Coafts, which most commonly are
only guefs'd at. The Ifland of Scio ftretches from
North to South; but it is narrower towards the
Middle, terminated to the South by [s] Caba
Maftico or [t] Catomeria, and to the North by
ท
[ο] Λατόμι. [3] Ἔχει ἢ ἡ νῆσος καὶ λατόμιον μαρμάρι
Aid. Strab. Rer. Geog. lib. 13. [9] Multo, inquit, magis
mirarer, fi Tiburtino lapide feciffetis. [r] In Chiorum la-
pidicina faxo difciffo caput extitit Panifci. Cic. de Divin.
[s] An. Tò Пoreídov. Strab. ibid. [t] Lower part of the
Tland.
E 3
that
13
54
A VOYAGE into the Levant.
that of [u] Apanomeria. The Town of Scio and
le Campo are about the Middle Eaſterly on the
Edge of the Sea. This Town is large, delight-
ful, and the beſt built of any in the Levant: the
Houſes are beautiful and commodious, the Roof
terminates in Timber-work cover'd with either
flat or ridge Tiles: the Terraces are well cement-
ed, and 'tis plain the Sciots have retain'd the Ge-
noefe Way of Building, that Italian People having
embellifh'd all the Towns of the Eaft, where
they once fettled. To conclude, after we had
ſpent a Twelvemonth in the Archipelago, and faw
nothing but Mud Houſes, the Town of Scio
look'd like a Jewel, tho' not very lightſom,
and paved with Flint-ftones like our Towns in
Provence: The Venetians in the laft War beauti-
fy'd Scio, by levelling the Houſes about the
Caſtle, where is now a fine Efplanade.
This Caftle is an old Citadel built by the Ge-
nocfe on the Edge of the Sea: it can batter the
Town and the Port, but there's one part of the
Town by which it feems to be commanded: 'tis
faid there are 1400 Men in Garriſon: there fhould
be 2000, in proportion to its Circuit. 'Tis de-
fended by round Towers, and an indifferent
Ditch: within it there's nothing but Clufters of
Houfes inhabited only by Muffulmen, or the
Latin Gentry, as appears from the Coat-armour
of the Juftiniani, &c. fet up in many Places.
The Turks are every day repairing the Damage
done to their Houfes by the Venetian Bombs:
they have likewiſe built a neat Mofque.
The Port of Scio is the Rendevouz of all Ship-
ping that goes either up or down, that is, either
to Conftantinople, or from thence into Syria and
Egypt; yet is it none of the beſt Harbours, tho'
Strabo [x] fays it can hold a Fleet of fourſcore
[u] Upper part of the Island. [x] Rer. Geog. lib. 10.
Ships.
Defcription of the Iſland of Scio.
55
Ships. At prefent there's only a forry Mole,
built by the Genoefe, form'd by a Jettee level
with the Surface of the Water: the Entrance is
narrow, and dangerous by reafon of the Rocks,
which are but juft cover'd with Water, and could
hardly be avoided, was it not for the Light-houſe
ſet upon the Rock of St. Nicholas. We left in
this Port feven Turkish Gallies and three Tripoli
Men of War: generally there remains here a
Squadron of Gallies.
As for the Country, [a] Athenæus had good
reaſon to call it a mountainous rugged Ifland;
and yet at that time thefe Mountains were render'd
more agreeable by the Woods, whereas they are
now very bare; yet in fome Places there are
abundance of Orange, Citron, Olive, Mulberry,
Myrtle, Pomegranate Trees, without reckoning
Maſtick and Turpentine. The Country does not
want for Corn; but it not yielding a fufficient
Quantity, they fetch it from time to time from
the Terra-firma: and for this Reaſon the Chriſtian
Princes could not long keep this Ifland, if they
were at War with the Turks. Cantacuzenus re-
ports, that Bajazet ftarv'd all the Inlands, by pro-
hibiting Corn to be carry'd to 'em: it would be
difficult to maintain a Settlement in the Archi-
pelago, without being in poffeffion of the Morea
or Candia, to fupply Provifions. The Town of
Gefme, which fome will have to be the antient
Town of Erythrea, uſed to furniſh Scio with Corn.
The Fertility of Afia is incredible. Gefme is over
againſt Scio, on this fide Cape Carabouron.
As for Wine, Scio has enough and to fpare: it
is pleaſant and ftomachical: Quantities are export-
ed to the neighbouring Iflands. [y] Theopompus
in Athenæus fays it was Oenepion the Son of Bac-
[*] Ἡ γνῆσος ἐςὶ τραχεῖα καὶ κατάδενδρος. Athen. De-
ipn. lib. 6. [] Deipn. lib. 1.
E 4
cbus
¡
56 A VOYAGE into the 'Levant.
L
chus that taught the Sciots the Culture of the
Vine; that the firft Red Wine was drank here,
and that the Inhabitants fhew'd their Neighbours
how to make Wine. [z] Virgil and Horace had no
Averfion to the Wines of Scio: Strabo [a], who
ſpeaks of 'em as the beſt Wines in Greece, extols
particularly one part of the Iſland oppofite to that
of Pyra, or Pfara as they now-a-days pronounce
it; and Pfara, has nothing elfe but this Liquor to
make itſelf known by in the Levant. Not long
ago the Troops of Mezomorto deftroy'd the Vine-
yards of Antipfara, which likewife was wont to
produce great Quantities of Wine. Pliny [b]
often ſpeaks of the Wines of Scio, and quotes
Varro, the moft Learned of the Romans, to prove
that they uſed to preſcribe it at Rome in Stoma-
chical Cafes. Varro likewife reports, that Hor-
tenfius left above 10,000 Pieces of it to his Heir.
Cæfar [c] regaled his Friends with it in his Tri-
umphs and Sacrifices to Jupiter and the other
Deities: but Athenæus [d] defcends more circum-
ſtantially into the Nature and Qualities of the
Wines of Scio: They help, he fays, Digeftion,
they fatten, they are wholefon, and exceed all
other Wines in Delicioufneſs of Tafte, eſpecially
thofe about Ariufa.
At Scio they plant their Vines on the Hills, and
cut the Grapes in August, and let 'em lie in the
Sun to dry for feven or eight Days; after which
they prefs 'em, and then let 'em ftand in Tubs to
work, the Cellar being all the while clofe fhut.
When they would make the beſt Wine, they mix
among the black Grapes a fort [e] of white one,
[x] Vina novum fundant calathis Arvifia Nectar. Eclog. 5.
rver/. 71. [α] Ἡ Αρισσία χώρα οἶνον άρισον φέρεσα τ Ε
ληνικών. Strab. Rer. Geog. lib. 3, & 14. [b] Hift.
Nat. lib. 14. cap. 7, 14, & 15. [c] Cæfar. Epulo apud
Plin. [d] Deipn. lib. 1. [e] 'Ai sugurai Podanivai,
σαφυλαί
Podavinov, Perficum.
which
Deſcription of the Iſland of Scio. 57
which fmells like a Peach-kernel; but in mak-
ing Nectar, fo call'd even to this day, they
make uſe of another kind of Grape, fomewhat
ftiptick, [g] which makes it difficult to fwallow.
The Vineyards moft in eſteem are thofe of Mefta,
from whence the Antients had their Nectar: Me-
Ata is as it were the Capital of that famous Quar-
ter call'd by the Antients Arioufia.
From hence we may eafily comprehend, why
we fee in Goltzius [b] fome Medals of Scio with
Bunches of Grapes for the Imprefs: on others were
reprefented [] Pitchers or Jars fharp pointed at
bottom, and with two Ears at the Neck: this Fi-
gure was proper for feparating the Lees, which
precipitated to the point after they had bury'd
'em: then they rack'd off the Wine. But it is
not eafy to account for the Repreſentation of a
Sphinx on the Reverſe of theſe Medals, unleſs
the Sphinx ferv'd the Sciots for a Symbol, as the
Owl did the Athenians.
There is not much Oil got in Scio, the beſt
Crop yields but about 200 Hogfheads; each
Hogfhead weighing 400 Oques: the Oque at
Scio is but three Pound two Ounces. Our Coun-
trymen get a good deal of Honey and Wax of
this Ifland; but the moft confiderable Merchan-
dize is their Silk: of this they make, one year
with another, 60,oco Maffes, according to their
way of reckoning; that is, 30,000 Pounds, the
Mais weighing half of our Pound. Almoſt all
this Silk is ufed in the Ifland, in the Manufa-
ctures of Velvet, Damask, and other Stuffs, de-
fign'd for Afia, Egypt, and Barbary. Sometimes
they mix Gold and Silver in theſe Stuffs, accord-
ing to the Fancy of the Workers or Merchants.
Every Pound of Silk pays at the Cuſtom-houſe
[g] Kuvoπvix]us. [b] De Inful. Græc. Tab. 15, & 16.
[] Diota,
four
58
AVOYAGE into the Levant.
four Timins, that is, twenty pence; in 1700 it
fold for 35 Timins the Pound: the Buyer pays
the Cuftom. The Turks and French pay 3 per
Cent. for all the Commodities of the Ifland: the
Greeks, the Jews, and the Armenians pay 5 per
Cent. Thefe Duties are farm'd at 25,000 Crowns
[k], payable to the Chief Treaſurer of Conftanti-
nople.
The other Wares of the Iland are Wooll,
Cheefe, Figs, and Maftick: the Traffick of Wooll
and Cheeſe is not fo confiderable as that of Figs:
befides what are ſpent in making Brandy, they
fend away great quantities of 'em to the neigh-
bouring Iſlands. Thefe Figs they rear by Capri-
fication; but to preſerve 'em, they are forced to
oven 'em, where they lofe their tafte. They
have no Salt-pits in Scio: they fetch their Salt
from Naxia or Fochia.
Before we ſpeak of the Maftick, we muft ob-
ferve, that the Towns of the Ifland are diftin-
guiſh'd into three Claffes; namely, thofe del Cam-
po, thofe of Apanomeria, and thoſe where they
plant Lentisk-trees, from whence the Maſtick in
Tears is produced. The Villages del Campo, or
thofe in the Neighbourhood of the Town, are
Bafilionica, Thymiana, Charkios, Neocorio, Berberato,
Ziphia, Batili, Daphnona, Caries, and Petrana;
this laſt almoſt empty.
The Villages of Apanomeria are St. George, Li-
thilimiona, Argoui, where Charcoal is made, Ano-
bato, Sieroanta, Piranca, Purperia, Tripez, St. He-
lene, Caronia, Keramos, Aleutopoda, Amarca, Fita,
Cambia, Viki, Amalthos, Cardamila, Pytics, Maja-
tica, Voliffo, where it is faid they can ſenſibly dif
cern the Sea to boil; peradventure, not unlike
thoſe Bubblings of hot Water in Milo. Sparton-
da is another Village in the fame Quarter, at the
[k] Fifty Purfes.
foot
Defcription of the Island of Scio.
59
foot of Mount [] Pelince, the higheſt Mountain
in all the Iſland, and now known by the name of
[m] Spartonda: on its top is built the Chapel of
St. Elijah, hard by an excellent Spring: there's
the Ruins of no body knows what old Caſtle [n]
fituated on the fame Mountain. Near the Village
of Calantra there are feveral hot Springs.
The Lentisk-tree Villages are Calimatia, Tholo-
potami, Merminghi, Dhidhima, Oxodidhima, Paita,
Cataracti, Kini, Nenita, where's the famous Chapel
of St. Michael, Vounos, Flacia, Patrica, Calamoti,
Armoglia, where they make Stone Pots, Pirghi,
Apolychni, Elimpi, Elata, Vefta, Mefta in the re-
nown'd Arvifian Field.
All the Lentisk-trees belong to the Grand
Signior, and they can't be fold but under cordi-
tion that the Purchaſer pay the fame quantity of
Maftick to the Emperor: generally the Land is
fold, and the Trees referv'd.
Theſe Trees are very wide fpread and circular,
ten or twelve foot tall, confifting of feveral
branchy Stalks, which in time grow crooked.
The biggeft Trunks are a foot diameter, cover'd
with a Bark greyifh, rugged, chapt: the Branches
are fubdivided into variety of Boughs laden with
Leaves, confifting of divers Couples rang'd on a
Slip hollow'd gutter-wife, two Inches long, and a
Line broad. The Leaves are difpos'd in three or
four Couples on each fide, about an Inch long,
narrow at the beginning, pointed at their extre-
mity, half an Inch broad about the middle.
From the Junctures of the Leaves grow Flowers
in Bunches like Grapes: the Fruit too grows like
Bunches of Grapes, in each Berry whereof is
contain❜d a white Kernel.
[4] Το Πελλιναῖον όρος.
[n] Eveías Kásegv.
Thefe Trees blow in
[m] Τὸ ὄρος τῆς Σπαρτόλας.
May:
60 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
May: the Fruit does not ripen but in Autumn
and Winter.
They plant a great many Lentisks in Provence
and Languedoc, but their Leaves are not fo large
as in the Levant. [o] Gaffendus obferves, that
about Toulon they yield fome Grains of Maftick,
if they are cut. All things confider'd, it is not
the Culture makes 'em productive of Maftick, as
is commonly thought; even in Scio there are many
that yield hardly any thing: fuch Stocks there-
fore as plentifully fhed their nutritious Juice by
Incifions, muſt be preferv'd and propagated.
They fometimes prune 'em by Moon-light in
October. Perhaps if they made Incifions in theſe
Trees in Candia, in the Ilands of the Archipelago,
and in Provence too, fome of 'em would yield as
much Maſtick as thofe of Scio. How many Pines
do we fee in the fame Forefts, which fcarce afford
any Rofin, tho' they are the fame Species with
thoſe that give a great deal? the Structure of the
Roots more or lefs compact, may be the cauſe of
this difference.
They begin to make Incifions in thefe Trees in
Scio the firſt of August, cutting the Bark croſs-
ways with huge Knives, without touching the
young Branches: next Day the nutritious Juice
diftils in ſmall Tears, which by little and little
form the Maftick Grains; they harden on the
ground, and are carefully fwept up from under the
Trees. The height of the Crop is about the
middle of August, if it be dry ferene Weather:
but if it be rainy, the Tears are all loft.
Likewife towards the end of September the fame
Incifions furniſh Maftick, but in leffer quantities:
they fift it to clear it of Duft, which ſticks fo faſt
to the Faces of thofe employ'd, that they are
forced to uſe Oil to wafh it off. There fometimes
[•] Vita Peireſc.
comes
Deſcription of the Island of Scio. 61
comes an Aga from Conftantinople, to receive the
Maftick due to the Grand Signior, or elſe they
appoint the Cuſtom-houſe Officers of Scio to re-
ceive it; who go to three or four of the chief
Towns before-named, and give notice to the In-
habitants of the reft, to bring in their Contin-
.gent all theſe Villages together owe 286 Chefts
of Maftick, weighing 100,025 Oques. The
Cadi of Scio takes three Chefts, each weighing
eighty Oques; one Cheft goes to him that keeps
the Accounts; the Officer at the Cuſtom-houfe
that weighs the Maſtick, takes a handful out of
each Man's parcel; the Garbler, or Sifter, like-
wife has as much for his pains. If any Perfon is
caught carrying Maftick to fuch Towns as do not
plant the Tree, they are fentenced to the Gallies,
and ſtript of all they are worth. Such of the
Peaſants as gather not enough Maſtick to pay
their Quota, buy or borrow of their Neighbours;
and thofe who have more than enough, keep it
for the next year, or fell it privately. Sometimes
they compound with the Cuftom-houſe Officer,
who takes it at one Piafter the Oque, and fells it
for two, or two and a half. The Planters of the
Lentisks pay but half the Capitation, and wear
the white Safh round their Turbant as well as the
Turks.
The Sultana's confume the greateſt part of the
Maftick defign'd for the Seraglio: they chew it
by way of Amuſement, and to give an agreeable
Smell to their Breath, efpecially in a Morning
fafting; they alſo put fome Grains of Maſtick in
perfuming Pots, and in their Bread before it
goes
to the Oven. Maſtick is likewiſe beneficially uſed
in Distempers of the Stomach and the Prima Via,
to ſtop Bleeding, and fortify the Gums.
[p] The
62 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
[p] The Turpentine Harveſt is likewife made
by cutting cross-ways with a Hatchet the Trunks
of the biggeſt Turpentine-trees, from the end of
July to October: the Turpentine runs down on flat
Stones placed under the Trees: they fell it on the
Spot for 30 or 35 Parats the Oque, that is, three
Pound and a half and an Ounce. The whole Iſland
produces not above 300 Oques. [9] This Liquor
is an excellent natural Balfam, a fovereign Sto-
machic, and good for provoking Urine; but
care muſt be taken not to give it to Perfons that
have the Stone, nor indeed any other Diureticks,
which have been found by experience to do hurt
rather than good to fuch Perfons.
i
Theſe Trees grow here without Culture on the
Borders of the Vineyards, and along the High-
way: their Trunk is as tall as that of the Lentisk,
as full of Branches, cover'd with a chapt afh-
colour'd Bark. The Leaves grow on a Rib a-
bout four Inches long, reddiſh: thefe Leaves
are about two Inches long, an Inch broad, pointed
at both ends, bright green, and have an aroma-
tick Tafte, with fomewhat of Stipticity. It is
with the Turpentine as with the Lentisk; that is,
fuch Branches as bear a Flower, have no Fruit;
and fuch as bear Fruit, have generally no Flower:
theſe Flowers grow at the extremity of the
Branches towards the end of April, before there is
any appearance of Leaves: they grow in cluſters
like Grapes, four Inches long. Each Flower has
five Stamina, which are not a Line long, charg'd
at top with Summits, yellowish, full of Duft of
the fame colour. The Fruit begins with Em-
bryo's cluſtering alfo like Bunches of Grapes, three
or four Inches long, which rife from the Center
[3] Γεννᾶται ἢ καὶ καλλίςη και πλείςη ἐν Χίῳ τῇ νήσῳ·
Diofc. lib. 1. cap. 90. [2] Προάγει ἢ πασῶν ἐ ρητί
vwv n Teguardin. Diofc. ibid. cap. 21.
of
Defcription of the Island of Scio. 63
of a Cup confifting of five greenish pointed
Leaves, fcarce a Line long. Each Embryo is
fhining, fleek, light green, oval-pointed; they
turn afterwards to a Cod, firm, three or four Lines
oval, cover❜d with an orange-colour'd Skin, fome-
what fleſhy, ftiptick, acrid, refinous; the Cod
contains a Kernel, flefhy, white, wrapt in a red-
difh Coat: the Wood of the Turpentine is
white.
In time, of Peace the Cadi governs the whole
Country: in War-time a Bafhaw is fent to com-
mand the Troops. The Mufti of Conftantinople
names the Cadi of Scio; he is a Cadi of 500
Afpers a Day, that is, one of the firſt Rank;
for in Turky, tho' there are no Appointments for
this fort of Officers, yet they are diftinguiſh'd
into ſeveral honorary Claffes; namely, thoſe of
500 Afpers a Day, of 400, of 300, of 250:
all thefe Judges Subfiftence arifes from a Fee
of 8 or 10 per Cent, out of the Caufes they try.
There is no Waivode here, only an Aga Janiza-
ry, who has under hin about 150 Janizaries in
time of Peace, and 3 or 400 in War-time. In
all Scio there are not above 10,000 Souls of the
Turks, 3000 of the Latins; but 'tis reckon'd
there are 100,000 Greeks.
*
The Capitation is divided into three Claffes in
this Iſland; the higheſt is ten Crowns three Parats,
the middlemoft five Crowns three Parats, the
loweft two Crowns and a half and three Parats;
the three Parats are for him that gives the Acquit-
tance: Women and Maids pay no Capitation.
In order to diſtinguiſh who are to pay this Tax,
they take meaſure of their Neck with a String;
then doubling this meaſure, they put both ends
into the Party's Mouth, and throw the String
over his Head, which if it can get clean through
this Meaſure, the Perfon is fubject to the Tax,
otherwife
64 AVOYAGE into the Levant.
otherwiſe he is exempt. They pay no Land-tax,
but only fome arbitrary Impofts to clear off the
Debts of the City, the Affairs whereof go through
the Hands of four new Deputies elected once a
Year, and eight Antients: in each Village is
chofen two Adminiftrators and four Antients.
The 12th of March we went to the North of
the Iſland, to ſee the Ruins of an antient Temple
five Miles from Cardamyla [r], a Village eighteen
Miles from Scio, beyond Port Dolphin [s]. Carda-
myla and the Port Dolphin have retain'd their old
Names: as for the Temple, 'tis unknown whom
it was confecrated to; but there are no Veſtigia
of any ſtately Edifice. It was built in an ugly
narrow Valley: the Situation of the Place, and
the Amours of Neptune with a Nymph of this
Inland [], made us fufpect it was dedicated to
that God; for as for the Temple of Apollo, men-
tion'd by Strabo, it was to the South of the Iſland,
and confequently very far from this. Below this
pretended Temple of Neptune runs a fine Spring
out of a Rock, and which perhaps gave occafion
of rearing this Edifice there: 'tis not likely that
this Spring was the Fountain of Helen, in which
Stephens [v] the Geographer fays that Princeſs
was accuftom'd to bathe. The Caſcade of it is very
pretty, iffuing from a Rock; but there are no Re-
mains of thofe Marble Steps fpoken of by M.
Thevenot: that Traveller was doubtlefs mifin-
form'd, or rather, in that Manuſcript whence his
chief Deſcription of Scio was taken, they had
confounded the Spring of Naos with the Foun-
tain of Sclavia, which runs on a Marble Bot-
tom in the moſt delicious Spot of Ground in the
[3] Το Δελφίνιον
[r] Kagdapúrn. Thucyd. lib. 8.
λιμένας ἔχον. Ibid.
[+] Paufan. Achait.
Επί και κρητη Ελένη ἐφ' ἡ Κλένη ἔλασε. Steph.
[v]
whole
Defcription of the Island of Scio. 65
whole Iſland, which is fhewn to Strangers as one
of the Wonders of Scio.
As for that other Spring in Scio, which Vi-
truvius [x] reports to have deprived of their
Senfes whoever drank of it, and for that reaſon
there was an Epigram put over it by way of
Caution to Paffengers; we had fome tranfient
Difcourfe concerning it with M. Ammiralli [y],
who had ſtudied at Paris, and at preſent practiſes
Phyfick with much Applauſe in his native Country
Scio: he affured us there was no talk now of
any fuch Fountain, nor of the Scio-earth men-
tion'd by Diofcorides and Vitruvius.
'Tis true,
Natural Hiſtory is what no body in this Coun-
try bends his Mind to: even the old Greek
Tongue is very much neglected. M. Amiralli,
who has tranflated Bourdon's Anatomy into that
Tongue; the Papas, Gabriel and Clement, are the
three only Perfons of this Ifland that underſtand
it: they highly efteem Budaus's Greek Letters,
and M. Menage's Poems in that Tongue.
[z] This land has, in times paft, produced
very extraordinary Men: Ion the Tragic Poet,
Theopompus the Hiftorian, Theocritus the Sophift:
the Sciots pretend too, that Homer was their
Countryman, and to this very Day fhew the
School he went to: it is at the foot of Mount
Epos on the Sea-fide, four Miles from the Town:
it is a flat Rock, wherein has been hew'd a fort
of round Bafon, twenty Foot diameter, the Edge
made fo as to fit on: out of the middle of this
Bafon arifes a piece of a Rock cut like a Cube or
Dye, about three Foot in height, and two Foot
eight Inches broad, on the fides whereof were
antiently carv'd certain Animals, now fo disfigur'd
[x] Lib. 3. cap 3. [] nuilews 'Aupanós. []
Strab. Rer. Geog. lib. 10.
Vol. II.
F
there's
66
A VOYAGE into the Levant.
there's no knowing 'em, tho' fome fancy 'em to
bear the reſemblance of Lions.
It is difficult to decide what Town Homer [z]
was of: he feems to have induftriouſly conceal'd
the Place of his Birth, for he drops not the leaft
Hint concerning it in any of his Works. [a]
Leo Allatius, a very learned Man, a Native of
Scio, has taken a great deal of Pains to prove
him to be of this Ifland: all things well weigh'd,
tho' ſeven renowned Cities contended for the Ho-
nour of Homer's Birth, it is highly probable this
Great Man was either of Smyrna or Scio. Perad-
venture the School mention'd above, ferv'd for a
Studying-place to fuch as were defirous to get his
Verfes by heart; for all Authors agree, the Ho-
merides were Inhabitants and Citizens of this Iſland:
they are faid to defcend from Homer; and in this
Superſtition it is poffible they caus'd this Rock to
be cut, to ferve for a School to young People that
were willing to inftruct themſelves in the Works of
Homer, as being the Prince of Poets, an excel-
lent Hiftorian, and moft 'compleat Geographer.
This School therefore may have been the place
where they repeated their Leffons, the Mafter
fitting on the Cube, and the Scholars on the
Rim of the Baſon.
Never did any Work paſs through ſo many
Hands as that of Homer. Jofephus [b] fays, that
his Verfes were preferv'd by way of Tradition
from the first Moment they appear'd, and that
without writing 'em down, they were commonly
got by heart. Lycurgus [c], the renowned Legiſlator
of Lacedemon, found all theſe Pieces in Ionia, from
whence he brought 'em into Peloponnefus. 'Twas
[2] Επλα πόλεις διερίζεσιν αεὶ ῥίζαν Ὁμήρο, Σμύρνα,
Ρόδος, Κολόφων, Σαλαμὶν, Χιός, Αργός, ᾿Αθῆναι. Aul. Gell.
Strab. Rer. Geog. lib. 1. [a] De Patria Hom. [6]
Lib. 1. contra Appian. [c] Plutarch. in Lycurg. Herac. de
Polit. Ælian. verf. Hift. lib. 13. cap. 14.
cufto-
Defcription of the land of Scio. 67
cuſtomary to repeat theſe Parcels of Homer under
different Names, as we do now-a-days the Airs of
our fineft Operas: but Solon [d], Pififtratus [e],
and Hipparchus [f] his Son, pieced 'em together,
and reduced 'em into two regular Bodies; the
Iliad and the Odyffee. Ariftotle, by Command
of Alexander [g] the Great, revis'd thefe Poems;
nay, that Conqueror himſelf would needs affift
therein, together with Callisthenes and Anaxarchus.
This Edition of Homer's Works was call'd the
Edition of the Casket [b], becauſe it was lock'd up
in a Casket which Alexander uſed to lay under his
Pillow a-nights. He afterwards had this Book
put into a little perfum'd Box [i], adorn'd with
Gold, Pearl, and the moſt precious Stones. [k]
Zenodotus of Ephefus, Preceptor of the Ptolemies,
Aratus, Ariftophanes of Byzantium, Ariftarchus of
Samothrace, and many other bright Wits, under-
took to reſtore to Homer his original Beauties; but
they have made fo many Alterations in it, that it
is faid, if Homer were alive, he would fcarce know
it to be his Work. It muft however be allow'd to
be the compleateſt Piece in its kind that ever was
produced among the Greeks. Paterculus, according
to his ufual cuſtom, has in a few Words given it
its due praife: He is the only Poet, fays he, that me-
rits that Name; and what is wonderful, is, there
was no Man before him whom he could imitate, nor
after his death any body to be found that could imitate
bim.
Befides Homer's School, they fhew his Dwelling-
houfe, where he compos'd moft of his Poems.
This Houſe, you may be fure, is in none of the
[d] Laert. in Solon. [e] Cic. de Orat. lib. 3.
Plato in Hipp. Paufan. in Achaic.
Strab. lib. 13.
[ƒ]
[g] Plut. in Alex.
[5] Ην ἐκ τῶ νάρθηκος καλέσιν. Flu-
[Plin. Hift. Nat. lib.
tarch, in Alex. & Strab. ibid.
7. cap. 29.
[*] Suid.
F 2
beft
68 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
beſt condition, for Homer lived 961 Years [1]
before Chrift. It ftands in a Place which bears.
the Poet's Name, to the North of the Iſland near
Voliſſo, call'd Boliſſus [m] by the Author of Homer's
Life, and Thucydides. Volio is in the midſt of the
Arvifian Fields, which fupply'd the Nectar; and
perhaps this Liquor was what did not a little help
to elevate the Poet's Genius. [n] He is repre-
fented on a Medal of Cardinal Barberini's Colle-
ction [], fitting on a Chair, holding a Scroll
of Writing: the Reverſe is a Sphinx, the Symbol
of Scio. Father Hardouin fpeaks of a like Me-
dal: M. Baudelot has fome of Smyrna [p] with the
fame Type, but a different Legend [9].
To conclude, 'tis pleaſant living at Scio, and the
Women there are better bred than in the other
parts of the Levant. Tho' their Dreſs looks odd,
yet they have a diftinguiſhing Neatnefs. There is
good Cheer at Scio: the Oyſters they bring from
Metelin are excellent; and Wild-fowl they have
in great plenty, eſpecially Partridge: they are as
tame as Hens. Some about Veſſa and Elata breed
'em up with care in the Morning they carry 'em
into the Fields to feek their Meat, like Flocks of
Sheep each Family trufts its Stock to a common
Keeper, who in the Evening brings 'em back,
after he has call'd them in with a Whiſtle. If
any Owner has a mind to have his brought home
in the Day-time, the fame Signal does the bufi-
neſs, and you fee 'em come without the leaft con-
fufion. I have feen a Man in Provence, who uſed
to lead Droves of Partridges into the Country,
and call 'em to him when he pleaſed: he would
take 'em up with his Hand, put 'em into his
[Marm. Oxon. Epoch. 30. [m] Boooos. Thucyd.
[n] Leo Allat. de Patria Homer.
[1] ΣΜΥΡΝΑΙΩΝ
ενεχάραττον. Jul. Poll. lib. 9.
Author Vitæ Homer.
[0] ΟΜΗΡΟΣ ΧΙΩΝ.
Χιοι Ομηρον γ νομίσματι
cap. 6.
[9]
Boſom,
131.I.
Women of the Island of
SCIO.
جد عند
Pag.291.
56
Vol.I.
Pag.292
Aristolochia
Subhirsuta chia
Tonga folio oblongo flore
maximo Coroll. Inst. Rei herb.8.
Defcription of the Island of Scio.
69
Bofom, and afterwards diſmiſs 'em to pick up a
Livelihood with the reft.
As for Plants, the Ifle of Scio produces very
fine ones. The two Species of Leontopetalon
(Lion's-blade) which I have taken notice of in the
Corollary of Botanick Inftitutions, are very common
here in certain places. We obſerv'd near the
Town a fort of Ariftolochia (Birthwort) whofe
Flower feem'd to me too extraordinary not to
take down the figure of it.
[r] The Root of this Plant is a Foot and a
half long, two Inches thick, picked at the bot-
tom, hard, woody, croſs❜d by a very ſolid Nerve,
yellowish, marbled white and red, cover'd with a
Bark fleſhy, moderately purple. This Root is ac-
company'd with a few Fibres, but it is intolera-
bly bitter, and puts out many Stumps or Heads
producing whitish Buds, ending in Stalks a Foot
high in the Spring-time; they afterwards ſtretch
to two Foot, firm, folid, two Lines thick, pale
green, rough, gutter'd, purple at their beginning,
and lying along the ground. Thefe Stalks are
adorn'd with a Leaf at each Knot, about three
Inches long, and two and a half at the Baſis;
which Bafis twirls, or is rounded like two Ears,
below which it grows narrower infenfibly, and
terminates in an obtufe Point, which ends in a
little ſhort Beak. The upper part of the Leaf
is dark green, fhining, veining out into irregular
Squares the under part is greeniſh, ſet off with
a very ſenſible Nervation. From their Junctures
grows a Flower fupported by a Stalk an Inch or
two long, terminating in an angulous Cup, with
fix large Channellings about half an Inch long,
Each Flower is crooked like the Letter S, three
Inches and a half long. It begins with a Cod
[] Ariftolochia Chia, longa, fubhirfuta, folio oblongo,
flore minimo. Corol. Inft. Rei Herb, 8.
F 3
eight
tag 0
A VOYAGE into the Levant.
eight or nine Lines thick, pale green, angulous,
which lengthens into a retorted Pipe, half an
Inch thick, ending in a huge Mouth almoft 0-
val, eighteen or twenty Lines diameter, the
Rims equally round. The hollow of this Mouth
is almoft cover'd with white Hairs, a Line and a
half long. The Ground-work thereof is purple,
black, and livid, with fome clearer Spots, and
fet off with a large Rifing in the place where the
Mouth begins to contract itſelf into a Pipe; the
Infide whereof is alfo purple-colour'd, hairy, as
is the Infide of the Cod, which is pale. At the
bottom of this Cod is an Hexagonal Button, two
Lines and a half in diameter, fet off with large
Stalks, between which there are Summits which
ſhed a yellow Duft. This Flower has no Scent
at all: the whole Plant is bitter.
The ftrong defire we had to fee Conftantinople,
made us depart from Scio the 27th of March in
a Turkish Saick; the 28th we reach'd Caftro,
the Capital of the Ifland of Metelin, formerly
call'd Lesbos. It is pretty plain from Strabo's
Deſcription of the two Ports of Mytilene, that
Caftro was built on its Ruins. This Geographer,
and Stephanus Byzantinus, who often copy'd him,
term Mytilene a very large City [s]. Cicero and
Vitruvius [1] fpeak of nothing but its Magnifi-
cence; nor indeed is there any thing to be feen but
Stumps of Columns, moft of 'em white Marble,
or afh-colour'd: fome of 'em are fluted direct,
others fpiral; fome are oval, fet off with Plat-
bands like thofe of the Temple of Delos; but
thofe of Metelin are not fluted on the fides. A-
mong thefe Ruins 'tis incredible, the number of
Chapiters, Frizes, Pedeſtals, Scraps of blind In-
11
[s] MUTIλvà й peyisn wuxis. Strab. lib. 13. [t] Cicer.
de Lege Agr. Vitruv. lib. 1. cap. 6.
fcriptions,
Vol.I.
MITYLENE anciently
anciently LESBOS.
Pag. 294. 7%
Deſcription of the Iſland of Metelin. 71
fcriptions, with the word Gymnafiarch up and
down.
This recall'd to our minds the noted Epicurus,
who read publick Lectures at Mytilene at 32
Years of Age, as we are told by Diogenes Laer-
tius. Ariftotle refided alfo here two Years, accord-
ing to that Author. Marcellus, after the Battel
of Pharfalia, not daring to appear before Cæfar,
retired hither to spend the remainder of his Days
in Study; nor could Cicero prevail on him to
come to Rome, to experience the Conqueror's
Clemency.
Mytilene has produced great Men antiently.
Pittacus, one of the feven Sages of Greece, whofe
Sentences were written on the Walls of Apollo's
Temple at Delphos, in order to refcue his Coun-
try, Mytilene, from the fervitude of Tyrants, af
fumed the Government himſelf, but freely refign'd
it again to his Fellow-citizens. The Poet Al-
cæus, and Sappho whom Strabo calls a Prodigy,
were of Mytilene, and lived about the fame time.
They ftruck Medals at Mytilene in honour of
thefe three illuftrious Perfons. 'Tis from thefe
Medals we learn that the Name of this Town
muſt be written with a y, tho' in Strabo it is with
an i. [v] Pittacus is reprefented on one fide of one
of theſe Medals, and Alcaus on the other. M.
Spon has caufed one to be graved, [x] where Sappho
is fitting with a Lyre in her Hand; on the other
fide is the Head of Nausicaa, Daughter of Alci-
nous, whofe Gardens are fo extol'd by Homer.
The Memory of this Town will never be loft a-
mong Antiquaries: the Cabinets of the Curious
are full of Medals of Mytilene, ftruck with the
[υ] ΜΥΤΙΛ. ΑΛΚΑΙΟΣ. ΠΙΤΤΑΚΟΣ. [3] Οι Μιτυλι
ναῖοι μὲν Σαπφώ τω νομίσματι, ενεχάρατζον. Jul. Pol. 1. 9.
c. 6. EПI CTPA. IEPOKA. MTTIA. fub Prætore Hierocle.
And on the other fide, HPQIAA NAYÇIKAAN.
:
F 4
Heads
72 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
Heads of Jupiter, Apollo, Livia, Tiberius, Caius
Cafar, Germanicus, Agrippina, Julia, Adrian,
Marcus Aurelius, Venus, Commodus, Crifpina, Julia
Domna, Caracalla, Alexander Severus, Valerian,
Gellian, Salouina. Long after Pittacus, Mytilene,
Strabo fays, produced the Rhetorician Diophanus ;
and in the Age of Auguftus, Potamon, Lesbode,
Crinagoras, and Theophanes the Hiftorian, who was
fo well known on account of his Friendship with
Pompey, whofe glorious Actions he had a great
fhare in.
Caftro, or the antient Mytilene, at this time is
far inferior to the Town of Scio; but the Ifle of
Metelin is much bigger than the Ifle of Scio, and
ftretches far towards the North-eaft. Strabo
makes Lesbos to be 137 Miles and a half in Com-
pafs, and Pliny and Ifidorus 168 Miles, nay 195.
We were told, there were ftill in this Ifland 120
Villages, among which is Eriffo, doubtleſs the an-
tient Town of [x] Erefus, the Birth-place of
Theophraftus and Phanias, the two famed Diſciples
of Ariftotle. But we had not time to go to
Eriffo, being only Paffengers in a Turkish Bark.
Strabo has fo exactly noted the Situation of the
antient Towns of Lesbos, that 'tis no hard Mat-
ter to find 'em out by perambulating the Coun-
try. Nothing gives more Pleafure to a Tra-
veller, than to behold the Birth-places of illuftri-
ous Men: this Ifland has turn'd out a good
Number of fuch. Plutarch writes [y], that the
Lesbians were the greateſt Muficians of Greece.
The famous Arion was of Methymne, the Ruins
whereof to this Day exiſt here. Terpander, who
was the firſt that fitted feven Strings to the Lyre,
was a Lesbian; which occafion'd the Fable of
Orpheus's Head being heard to fpeak in this
Inland after it was cut off in Thrace, as is ingeni-
[x] Escoσos. [] Plutarch. de Mufica.
ously,
Vol. I.
A Woman of
INDROS.
A Woman of
MITYLENE
שעון
57
Paq.295.
Deſcription of the Island of Metelin. 73
L
ouſly explain'd by Euftathius [z], in his Notes on
Dionyfius Alexandrinus. Euftathius alſo obſerves,
that the Ifland was named Mytilene from the
Name of the Town. It is plain, Metelin is made
of Mytilene. Strabo [a] adds alfo to the Number
of the Lesbian Worthies Hellanicus, a celebrated
Hiftorian, and Callias, who made Notes on the
Poems of Alcaus and Sappho.
So much for the bright Side of the Lef
bians; now let us turn the Tables, and we ſhall
find they were fo corrupt in their Morals, that a
worfe thing could not be faid of a Man, than
that he lived like a Leſbian [b]. In Goltzius there's
a Medal which does no great Honour to the La-
dies of this Iſland; yet to do Juſtice to its preſent
fair Inmates, they are not fo great Coquets as
thofe of Milo and Argentiere. Their Dreſs is not
fo immodeft, tho' they expofe their Breaſts a lit-
tle too much fome go into the other Extreme,
and let you fee nothing of them but the Round-
neſs through a Piece of Linen.
The Soil of Metelin looks to be very good:
the Mountains there are cool, and cover'd with
Wood in many Places. The Iſland produces
good Wheat, excellent Oil, the beſt Figs in the
Archipelago: nor have its Wines loft any thing of
their antient Reputation [c]. Strabo, Horace, Athe-
næus, Elian, would like 'em full as well now as
in their own time. Ariftotle, in the Agony of
Death pronounc'd in favour of the Wine of
Lesbos. Upon debating about a Perfon to fuc-
ceed him in the Lyceum, proper to keep up the
Reputation of the Peripatetick School, Menede-
[*] Ad verf. 537. [a] Rer. Geog.
[a] Rer. Geog. [b] Acobiom, in
Suid. [c] Hic innocentis pocula Lesbii duces fub umbra.
Horat. Od. 17. lib. 1. Non eadem arboribus pendet vin-
demia noftris, Quam Methymnæo carpit de palmite Lefbos.
Virg. lib. 2. Georgic.
mus
74
AVOYAGE into the Levant.
in
mus of Rhodes and Theophraftus of Lesbos put
for it. Aristotle call'd for fome Wine of each
Ifland, and after he had deliberately tafted it,
[d] They are both excellent Wines, cry'd he, but this
of Lesbos is most agreeable of the two; thereby giving
to underſtand, that Theophraftus as far excell'd his
Competitor, as the Lesbian Wine did that of
Rhodes. Triftanus gives the Type of a Medal of
Geta, who, according to Spartianus, was a dear
Lover of good Wine: [e] the Reverſe repreſents
a Fortune, holding in her right Hand a Rudder
of a Ship, and in her left a Cornucopia, with a
Bunch of Grapes among other Fruit. Pliny
praiſes the Wine of this Ifland, on the Authority
of Erafiftratus, one of the greateſt Phyſicians of
Antiquity.
ني
:
The fame Author and Ifidorus fpeak of the
Jaſper of Leſbos; but we had not leiſure to ſee it,
any more than the Pine-trees, which yield a black
Pitch, and Planks to build fmall Veffels. Our
Captain made us pay at the Port of Petra, from
whence we durft not ftir, left he fhould go away
and leave us the Turkish Captains make their
Paffengers pay before-hand, and never trouble
themſelves afterwards about 'em. Petra is a poor
Place: all the Pleaſure we had, was to drink
Coffee at a Turk's Houſe, who had been long
a Slave at Marfeilles, and who inform'd us con-
cerning the Ports of the Ifland, which are Caftro,
or the antient Mytilene, Port Olivier, Caloni, and
Port Sigre. He affured us there were in the
Inland many Turks mix'd with the Chriftians of
the Greek Rite. The Cadi and the Janizary-
aga refide at Caftro, as alfo the Vice-conful of
France, who is fent by the Conful of Smyrna.
Caftro is not the only Port of the Inland. Jero,
[d] Utrumque, inquit, oppido bonum, fed n♪iwv i Aka-
βιος. Aul. Gel. lib. 13. cap. 5. [+] ΜΗΘΥΜΝΑΙΩΝ.
known
Tol, I
Women of
PETRI
4
apoor Town in Island of
MITYLENE.
Zag #295
Vol. I.
Pag.296
Ifle of TENEDOS „
܀܀
い
​}
1
Defcription of the Island of Tenedos. 75
६
known to the Franks by the Name of Port Oli-
vier, and whofe Entrance is between the Eaſt
and the [f] South-eaft, is reckon'd one of the
largeſt handſomeſt Poits of the Mediterranean.
The other Ports of Metelin are Caloni and Sigre.
[g] Caloni is the beft of the two, and looks
Southward, but you muſt leave on the left a
Rock Weftward of it: the Entrance of Port [b]
Sigre is between the South and South-weft [i].
The Canal of Lefbos is, according to Strabo [k]
and Pliny, feven Miles and a Half: at its Mouth
are the Iſlands of Mofconifi, which fpread to the
Coaſt of the antient Town of Phocea; fome of
whoſe Inhabitants not brooking the Perfian Go-
vernment, came to the Coaft of Provence, and
founded Marſeilles.
We fail'd from Port Petra the 25th of March,
an Hour after Midnight, and at Break of Day
we found ourſelves in fight of Tenedos. Strabo de-
termines the Diſtance of theſe two Iflands 62
Miles, and Pliny 56; they generally reckon 60,
at a Medium.
TENEDOS.
">
Tenedos has retain'd its Name ever
fince the Trojan War: all the antient
Authors agree, that this Ifland, which was wont
to be call'd Leucophrys, was call'd Tenedos from
one Tenes or Tennes, who brought a Colony thi-
ther. Diodorus Siculus [1] fpeaks of it like a true
Hiftorian: Tennes, fays he, was illuftrious for his
Virtue he was Son of Cycnus King of Colone in
Troas, and after he had built a Town in the Inle
Leucophrys, he gave it the Name of Tenedos. He
was, during his Life, beloved by his Subjects,
[f] Siron.
[g] Kanλórn, apud Cantacuz. lib. 2.
cap. 30. [b] Eyeov. Strab. [i] Labech. [4] Ἑκατὸν
νήσοι και Απολλων νήσοι. Ἑκατὸς γὰ ὁ Απολλών. Strab. lib.
r/] Biblioth. Hift. lib. 5.
13.
*
and
76 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
and adored by 'em after his Death; for they
rais'd a Temple, in which they offer'd Sacrifice
to him.
Diodorus treats as fabulous what the
Inhabitants of Tenedos publish'd concerning him;
but Paufanias and Suidas [m] fpeak of it very ſe-
riouſly. 'Tis faid, in fhort, that Tennes was Son
of Cycnus and Proclea, Sifter of Caletor, who was
kill'd by Ajax at the Time he attempted to burn
the Ships of Protefilaus. After the Death of Pro-
clea, Cycnus marry'd Philonome, who thereby be-
came Step-mother of Tennes and Hemithea his
Sifter. The Hiſtory adds, that this Step-mother
faw fo many Charms in Tennes, and fo little Dif-
pofition to make himſelf be beloved by her, that
The complain'd to her Huſband how her Son
would have ravifh'd her. Stephanus Byzantinus
adds, that the Witneſs ſhe produced in proof of
her Charge, was a Player on the Flute. Cycnus,
as much affected with his Wife's Virtue, as in-
cens'd at his Son's Audacioufnefs, caus'd him to
be lock'd up in a Cheft, wherein his Sifter He-
mithea would needs accompany him. They were
thrown into the Sea, which caft 'em on the
Inland we are ſpeaking of: theſe two charming
Perfons were receiv'd with fuch Applaufe, that
Tennes was declared King thereof. Some time
after, Cycnus, convinced of his Son's Innocence,
took a Refolution to go to Tenedos, and exprefs
his Concern for what had been done; but Tennes,
inſtead of receiving him, went to the Port, where
with a Hatchet he cut the Cable that faſten'd his
Father's Ship. [a] The Hatchet was not loft:
Periclytus, a Citizen of Tenedos, took care to ſee
it carry'd to Delphos, into the Temple of Apollo;
and the Tenedians confecrated two of 'em in the
Temple of their City.
Thefe Adventures made a Noife, and gave
birth to two Proverbs: When any one was mind-
[m] Phocic.
[n] Suid.
ed
Defcription of the Island of Tenedos. 77
ed to reproach a falfe Witnefs, he would fay, he
was a Flutenift of Tenedos [o]; and when any Affair
was to be diſpatch'd in the Inftant, they brought
in the Hatchet of Tenedos [p]. Ariftotle, cited by
Stephanus Byzantinus, explains the thing in ano-
ther Manner. He ſays, that a King of Tenedos
having by an exprefs Law condemn'd Adulterers
to be beheaded by a Hatchet, the firſt Example
was made in the Perfon of his own Son. This
Geographer affirms, there were repreſented on
the Medals of the Ifland the Heads of the two
Lovers back to back, and on the Reverſe the
Hatchet with which they were executed, Golt-
zius has given a Type of a like Medal. It might
be explain'd according to the Remark of Ste-
phens; but the Conjecture of [q] M. de Boze,
perpetual Secretary of the Academy Royal of In-
fcriptions and of Medals, is much happier, and
perfectly natural. That Academician, whofe
Learning outftrips his Years, is of opinion, that
thefe two Heads are of Tennes and Hemithea his
Sifter his Thought is confirm'd by another
Medal of the Cabinet of M. Baudelot, on which
theſe two Heads (back to back) have a fort of
Diadem over them.
M. Baudelot, who is fruitful in ingenious Con-
jectures, thinks one of theſe Heads is that of Ju-
piter, and the other that of an Amazon, who,
when thofe Heroines ufed to make Incurfions,
had founded fome Town in Tenedos. This is not
wide of Probability, and the Inhabitants of this
Inland were perhaps defirous to preſerve the Re-
membrance of it on their Coins; as did thoſe of
Smyrna, Ephefus, and many other Towns of Afia.
The Hatchet on the Reverſe makes intirely for
M. Baudelot's Opinion, for every Body looks on
this Inftrument as the Symbol of the Amazons.
[ο] Τενέδιος αυλή της. Stephan. [ρ] Τενέδιος πελέ-
¿UNTS.
xus. Suid. ibid.
[9] Differt. on the Janus of the Antients.
Yet,
58
AVOYAGE into the Levant.
Yet, on the other hand, it has been thought this
was the Inftrument ufed by the People of Tenedos
in their Executions of Criminals. To exprefs an
unmerciful Judge, 'twas a Saying, according to
Suidas [e], Such an one is an Advocate of Tenedos.
Hatches were in fo great ufe in this Iſland, that
there uſed to be continually behind the Judge an
Officer bearing a Hatchet, and ready to exerciſe
it on fuch as bore falfe Witneſs: the King him-
felf would fometimes be the Executioner of this
fevere Juſtice.
Nothing has render'd this Inland more famous
in Antiquity, than the Siege of Troy. Virgil rightly
fays [f], that Tenedos was within fight of that
powerful City, and ſuppoſes that the Greeks con-
ceal'd themſelves in a Port of this Iland, when
they made as if they quitted the Siege. After
the Fall of Troy, its Circumftances were fo mife-
rable, they were forc'd to give themſelves up to
their Neighbours, who built Alexandria on the
Ruins of Troy, as Paufanias obferves.
This Ifland was one of the firft Conquefts of
the Perfians, who after the Overthrow of the
Ionians at the Ifle of Lada right againſt Miletus,
made themſelves mafters of Scio, Lesbos, and Te-
nedos [g]. It was reduced by the Athenians, or at
leaſt took party with them againſt the Lacedemo-
nians, fince Nicolachus, who ferv'd under Antalci
das, Admiral of Lacedemon, ravaged this Iſland,
and raiſed Contributions on it, in ſpite of the Vi-
gilance of the Athenian Generals, who were at Sa-
mothrace and Thafje. This perhaps was the reafon
why the Tenedians caus'd to be graved on their
Medals an Owl, as is apparent from that of M.
[è] Terédios Eurágocss. Teréfios žvSgaros. [f] Eft in
confpectu Tenedos, notiffima famâ, Infula dives opum, Priami
dum regna manebant. Virgil. [] Herod. lib. 6. Xeno-
phon. Hollen. 5.
Baudelats
Defcription of the Island of Tenedos. 79
Baudelot; the Owl being the Device of the Athe-
nians.
The Romans enjoy'd Tenedos in their Day, and
the Temple of that Town was plunder'd by Ver-
res, who impioufly did the fame by thofe of Scio,
Erythrea, Halicarnaffus, and Delos: he carry'd a-
way the Statue of Tennes, Founder of the Town;
which threw the Inhabitants, Cicero fays, [b] into
the greateſt Concern. The fame Author fre-
quently ſpeaks of that memorable Battel won by
Lucullus at Tenedos over Mithridates, and the Cap-
tains whom Sertorius had brought into his Army.
Tenedos fhared the fame Fate with the other
Iſlands under the Roman Emperors, and under the
Greek Emperors. The Turks laid Hands on it
betimes, and ſtill have it in poffeffion. [] It was
taken by the Venetians in 1656, after the Battel of
the Dardanelles, but the Turks took it again almoſt
as foon.
Strabo makes this Inland eighty Stadia about,
i. e. ten Miles: it is a good eighteen, and would
be almoſt circular, but for its Elongation to the
South-eaft. This Author determines the diſtance
of the Terra-firma at eleven Stadia, equivalent to
1375 Paces, tho' they reckon about fix Miles.
Pliny made a better Judgment, in removing it
twelve Miles and a half from the antient Sigaum,
which was on Cape Janillary: the diſtance between
Lesbos and Tenedos he fettles at fifty Miles. All
that Strabo fays of this Ifland, is, that it had one
Town, two Havens, and a Temple dedicated to
Smyntbian Apollo. Who would think this Sur-
name of Apollo was occafion'd by Mice? And yet
theſe Vermin were reprefented on the Medals of the
[] Cic. pro Lege Man. pro Mur. pro Arch. Poeta.
Theven. Voyag, tom. 1.
[
Inland:
:
80 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
Inland: they are call'd by the Cretans, Trojans,
and Eolians, Epivo. Elian relates, that they
Σμίνθοι.
made fuch devaftation in the Fields of the Trojans
and Eolians, they were obliged to confult the O-
racle of Delphos. The Anfwer imported, that
they ſhould be deliver❜d from them, if they fa-
crificed to Smynthian Apollo. We have two Me-
dals [k] of Tenedos, with Mice graved on 'em;
the one with Apollo's Head irradiated, and a
Field-moufe under it; on its Reverfe is a two-
edged Hatchet: the other Medal is with two
Heads, back to back; the Reverſe is the fame
Hatchet erected, and beneath it two Mice are
placed. Strabo [] delivers, that a Moufe was
graved at the foot of Apollo's Statue in the
Temple of Chryfa, to unfold the reaſon of his
being furnamed Smynthian, and that it was done
by Scopas the famed Sculptor of Paros.
A Merchant of Conftantinople, who was on
board our Ship, told us there were no Reliques
of Antiquity now in Tenedos: and indeed all
its Magnificence fell with that of Troy. For
our parts, we had no great defire to hunt after
the Ruins of thofe Granaries Juftinian built there,
for a Staple or Repofitory of Corn brought
from Alexandria for Conftantinople, which often-
times corrupted by being kept on Ship-board
by contrary Winds at the entrance of the
Dardanelles. Thefe Magazines Procopius tells us,
[m] were 280 Foot long, and 90 broad. Their
Height was very confiderable, and confequent-
ly they muſt have been extraordinary ftout Build-
ings. We admired that wife Emperor's Fore-
caft; but all this was no Spur to our Curio-
fity, any more than the Spring which in Pliny's
[4] ΤΕΝΕΔΟΣ, ΤΕΝΕΔΙΩΝ.
Toy. Strab. Rer. Geog. lib. 13.
Edific. Juftin. lib. 5. cap. 1.
I.
[1] Σμίθεος Α
[m] Procop, de
time
Defcription of the Island of Tenedos. 81
fix [n].
time overflow'd its Bafon in the Summer Sol-
ftice, from three o'Clock after Midnight till
A much greater Attractive with us was
the Muſcat Wine of this Ifland, the moſt de-
licious of all the Levant. I fhall never forgive
the Antients omitting to make the Panegyrick
of this Liquor, they who affected to celebrate
the Wines of Scio and Lesbos. 'Tis no excufe
to ſay the Vine was not at that time planted
in Tenedos; the contrary may eafily be proved
by the Medal of Tenedos in the Cabinet of M.
Baudelot. Thereon is reprefented, on the fide of
the two-edged Hatchet, a Branch of a Vine
charged with a very handfom Bunch of Grapes,
in token of this Fruit's abounding in the faid
Ifland. Our Concern, on this occafion, was
fufficiently alleviated at Conftantinople by Mon-
fieur the Marquifs de Ferriol, Ambaffador of
France there. He drinks the beſt Wine of
Tenedos, and keeps the beſt Table in all the Eaſt,
even from Conftantinople to China or Japan.
We pass'd the 26th of March very near the
Iland of Rabbits, or Iland of Moors,
known to the Antients by the Name Ile of Moors.
of the Calydnes: theſe Iſlands are abandon'd.
The Sea being very calm, our Ship had little or
no motion; fo that M. Aubriet had full op-
portunity to draw a Plan of Tenedos: To it I
ſhall add a very exact Draught of the whole
Iſland, communicated to me fince my Re-
turn.
Your Lordship will permit me, before I leave
the Archipelago, to give you an account of what
I learnt at Mycone concerning the Ifland of
Nicaria, from a Papas of that Country, who
pretended to be of the Family of the Paleo-
logi, tho' he had not a Shoe to his Foot, and
[] Plin. Hift. Nat. lib. 2. cap. 103.
Vol. II.
G
was
82
A VOYAGE into the Levant.
was forc'd to flit Deal-boards for a Livelihood.
We attempted twice to pass over to Nicaria,
but were repuls'd by the Weather.
This Ifland [o] is fixty Miles about,
NICARIA. and extends from the Point call'd Papà,
looking towards Mycone, as far as to the Point
of [p] Fanar, over against Cape [q] Catabate in
the Iſle of Samos. Strabo gives to Nicaria but
300 Stadia of Circumference, which is no more
than 37 Miles and a half. He determines the
diſtance of theſe two Capes at eighty Stadia,
which is but ten Miles: and yet the Grand
Bougas, or the Canal which is between Samos
and Nicaria, is 18 Miles over.
Nicaria is very narrow, and crofs'd quite
through by a Chain of fharp-rais'd Mountains;
for which reafon it formerly was call'd the
long narrow Ifland [r]. Thefe Mountains are
cover'd with Wood, and fupply the whole
Country with Springs. The Inhabitants have no
other Trade to live by, but the Sale of Planks of
Pine, Oak, and Timber for building or burning,
which they carry to Scio or to Scalanova: and in-
deed the Nicarians are fo very poor, that they beg
Peoples Charity as foon as ever they are out of
their own Ifland; yet it is intirely their own
fault, for not improving their Land as they
ought. They gather little Wheat, but a good
deal of Barley, Figs, Honey, Wax: but after
all, they are a parcel of Sots, Churls, and De-
mi-favages. They make their Bread in pro-
portion to what they mean to eat for Dinner
or Supper. This Bread is nothing but Buns
[o] Inaela Inaegs v Ixaeia, whence Nicaria [p] A-
κρωτήριον Δρακανόν. Strab. [9] AxewTheLov Kavdeior.
[] Antea vocata Doliche & Macris. Plin.
Strab.
lib. 4. cap. 12.
without
Defcription of the Island of Nicaria. 83
without Leaven, which they half-bake on a flat
Stone heated very hot if the Miſtreſs of the
Houſe be big with Child, fhe has a double
Portion of thefe Buns, one for herſelf, and an-
other for her Child: the fame Civility is paid
to Strangers.
It
This Inland was never well peopled. Strabo
mentions it as an uncultivated Country, whofe
Paftures were of great ufe to the Samians.
is thought, at preſent there are not above 1000
Souls in it: the two principal Towns have a-
bout 100 Houſes each; one is call'd [s] Maf-
feria, and the other [t] Peramare. The Villa-
ges are [v] Aratufa, where there are but four
Houſes, which is a great many; for at [x] Plou-
mara they have but three, two at [y] Nea, four
at [x] Perdikis near Fanar, five at [a] Oxo, feven
at [b] Langada. They call a Village, in this
Inland, any Place that has above one Houſe
in it.
Nicaria has not chang'd its Name : it is call'd
Icaria, juſt as in the Days of yore: but the Franks,
who don't underſtand Greek, corrupt moft Names.
Every one knows that this Name is afcribed to
[c] Icarus Son of Dedalus, who was drown'd
hereabouts in the Sea, whence it was named
the Icarian Sea, Strabo takes Leros and Cos into
this Sea. Pliny makes its Extent only from Samos
to Mycone. M. Bochart alone derives the Name
of Icaria from the Phenician word Icaure, which
fignifies full of Fish; which however is not very
different from the Greek [d] the Antients call'd
the fame Ifland by. Be it as it will, the Fable
[1] Περαμαρτ
[s] Marosela.
[*] Πλεμαρα. [v] Neα.
[6] nafyada. [] Icaros,
Nat. Hift. lib. 4. cap. 12.
Ιχθυόεσσα. Steph.
[v] A co dooα.
[2] Π οδικος. [a] O&c.
quæ nomen mari dedit. Plin.
[d] Ichthyoeffa. Plin. ibid.
G 2-
of
84 A VOYAGE into the 'Levant.
!
of Icarus is very prettily explain'd by Pliny, [e]
who attributes the Invention of Ship-fails to I-
carus. Paufanias [f] will have it to be Dedalus: but
take it which way you will, in all appearance
the Wings which the Fable gives Icarus to
make his eſcape into Crete, were no other than
the Sails of the Ship that carry'd him to the
Ifland we are ſpeaking of, and where he fuf-
fer'd Shipwreck for want of knowing how to
work the Sails.
It
All the Inhabitants of Nicaria are of the
Greek Communion, and it is faid their Lan-
guage comes nearer the old Greek than that of
the other Iſlands, where Commerce has occa-
fion'd the Settlement of many Strangers, who
have introduced infinite numbers of Words and
Terminations of their refpective Countries.
is highly probable, this Inland has follow'd the
deſtiny of that of Samos, its Neighbour and Mi-
ftrefs. The Ifle of Nicaria is no where fpoken
of in the Relations of any War, but that be-
tween [g] Baldwin II. Emperor of Conftantinople,
and Vatace Son-in-law of Theodorus Lafcaris: for
the Fleet of Vatace took in 1247 the Inles of
Metelin, Scio, Samos, Icaria, and Cos, as we
learn from Gregoras [b].
The Nicarians acknowledge the Biſhop of
Samos in Spirituals. He has a Protopapas there,
under whom there are twenty four Papas, who
have the care of feveral Chapels. There is
but one Monaftery, call'd St. Lesbia [i], whofe
Body they have, as they believe: but this Mo-
naſtery abounds with Monks all one
as the
Villages do with Inhabitants; for there is but
one fingle Caloyer belonging to it.
[e] Hift. Nat. lib. 7. cap. 56.
Hilt. of Emp. of Conft. 1. 4.
1. 2. C. 5.
[1] Αγία Λέσβια
[f] Boeotic. [g] Du Cange
[b] Nicephor. Gregoras,
The
$
Defcription of the Ifland of Nicaria. 85
The Ifland wants Ports, as Strabo has obferv'd.
One of the principal Calanques is at Fanar, where
was the antient Town [b] Dracanon. The other
looks to Scio, and is call'd [] Carabouftas, that
is, the Calanque or the Port. The Ruins of
the Town of Enoe [k] are hard by, in a place
call'd fimply the Field, or the Field of Ruhes
[1]. Here feems to be the place where the
Miletians brought a Colony: and as Carabouftas
is the beſt Port of the Country, there's ground
to believe 'tis this that was call'd [m] Ifti at
that time. The good Ports of thefe Quarters
are in the Ifles of Fourni, which have bor-
row'd their Names from their Figure; for they
are naturally hollow'd in the Rocks like the
Roofs of Ovens. Theſe Iſlands are equally
diftant from Nicaria and Samos to the Leeward,
and confequently more Southern. There's no-
thing to be feen but wild Goats.
Strabo affirms [n], there was in Nicaria a
Temple of Diana, call'd Tauropolium; and Cal-
limachus made no fcruple to ſay, that of all I-
flands this was the moft delighted in by Di-
ana. Goltzius has given the Type of a Me-
dal [], reprefenting on one fide a Huntreſs
Diana, and on the other a Perfon on a Bull,
which may be taken for Europa; but, accord-
ing to the Conjecture of Nonius, it is rather
the fame Diana, the Bull denoting the Luxu-
riance of the Paftures in the Ifland, and the
Protection of that Goddeſs. This Medal was
ftruck in the Iſland we are fpeaking of, and
not in another Iſland of the fame name in the
Sinus Perficus. Dionyfius Alexandrinus [p] ad-
[3] Δρακανόν.
Strab. Athen.
[1] Καραβάςας.
μ. Strab. Rer. Geog.
[k] Ænoe,
[4] Το Κάμπο και το Καλά
[m] Iso. Strab. [7] Esi
Αρτέμιδος ἱερὸν καλό προν Ταυροπόλιν ἐν τῇ νήσῳ. Strab.
[ο] ΙΚΑΡΙΩΝ. [p] Verf. 608, &c.
G 3
vances,
86
A VOYAGE into the Levant.
vances, that they uſed to offer Sacrifice in this
latter to Apollo Tauropolis. Euftathius, his Com-
mentator, fays no more than that it was a
very famous Ifland; but he adds, that they
likewife paid great Veneration to Apollo and
Diana Tauropoles in the Iſland of Icaria of the
Egean Sea whence we muft conclude, that
thefe Deities were the Object of Worſhip among
the Inhabitants of theſe two Ilands. Tauropo-
lis in this place fignifies a Protector of Bulls;
and not a Merchant, as one would think by
the Name. 'Twould be tedious to relate the
Sentiments of the antient Authors concerning
this Name; we must abide by that of Suidas:
it is fufficient to obferve, that Diana Tauropo-
lis was not only honour'd in the Iflands of I-
caria, but alfo in that of Andros, and at Am-
phipolis in Thrace, as we learn from Livy [9].
We must not confound the Name of Tauropolis
with that of Taurobolis, which likewife belong'd
to Diana. The Taurobolis properly was a Sa-
crifice altogether fingular, which Prudentius has
very well deſcribed, and has fince been moſt
learnedly explain'd by M. de Boze.
The [r] Fanar or Fanari of Nicaria is an
old Tower, which uſed to ſerve for a Light-
houfe to direct Shipping between this Inland
and Samos; for this Canal is dangerous when
the Sea runs high, tho' 'tis eighteen Miles 0-
ver. That of Nicaria at Mycone is near forty
Miles, and from one Port to the other above
fixty.
Meffieurs Fermanel and Thevenot were
miſtaken, when ſpeaking of Nicaria, they took
it for Niffaro, where are the famouſeft Divers
of all the Archipelago. The Inhabitants of Ni-
caria are wretchedly poor, and have nothing
to do but cut Wood: they are without either
[9] Lib. 44. [r] Davágn, Lanthorn, Light-houſe.
Cadi
T
Defcription of the Island of Nicaria. 87
Cadi or Turk: all their Affairs are managed
by a couple of Adminiſtrators, who are chofe
annually. In 1700 they paid 525 Crowns to
the Capitation, and 130 Crowns to the Cu-
ftomer of Scio for the Land-tax, and more par-
ticularly to have the liberty to go fell their
Wood out of the Iſland. They ufe nothing
but Hand-mills, fetch'd from Milo or Argen-
tiere; but the Milo Stones are the beft. Theſe
Mills confift of two flat round Stones, about
two Foot diameter, which they rub one on
another by means of a Stick, which does the
office of a Handle. The Corn falls down on
the undermoft Stone, through a hole which is
in the middle of the uppermoft, which by its
circular motion fpreads it on the undermoft,
where it is bruifed and reduced to Flower : which
Flower working out at the rim of the Mill-
ftones, lights on a Board, fet on purpoſe to
receive it. The Bread made hereof is better-
tafted than that of Flower ground either by
Wind or Water-mills: thefe Hand-mills coft
not above a Crown, or a Crown and a half.
I am, &c.
G 4 LETTER
[88]
LETTER
III.
To Monfeigneur the Count de Pontchartrain,
Secretary of State, &c.
MY LORD,
Defeription
of the Archipelago, I ſhall here
OT to break the Defcription
N°7
•
of the Islands
of Samos, Pat- entertain you with an Account of
mos, Fourni, Samos, Patmos, and Skyros; tho' we
and Skyros. faw them not till our return from
Anatolia.
We ſet out from Scalanova for [s] Samos the
25th of January, 1702, in a Tartane of Captain
Dubois, who was picking up Turkish Pilgrims on
the Coafts of Afia, to conduct 'em to Alexandria.
Thefe Pilgrims are call'd Agis, and go from Ale-
xandria to Mecha. The Opportunity was favour-
able, in fecuring us againſt the Banditti, who lurk
in the [t] Boghas of Samos. Theſe Boghas are
the Straits at the two Points of the Ifland. The
little Boghas is at the Eaft-fouth-eaſt, and its
Mouth looks to the South. Strabo allows it to be
but [u] 875 Paces broad, tho' 'tis in reality above
1000, and in length 3000. It parts the Ifle of
Samos from the Terra-firma of Afia. This [x] Strait
is ſhut in, according to the fame Author, between
the [y] Cape of Neptune and the Mountain of
[z] Mycale, which is juft over againſt it in Afia.
This Mountain, the higheft thereabouts, and
forky at top, is to this very day in the fame.
[3] Νεάπολις ή πρώτερον μὲν ἦν Εφεσίων, νῦν ἢ Σαμίων.
Strab. Rer. Geog. lib. 14. [t] Mouths, Canals, Straits.
Bogazi, in Turkiſh. [u] Seven Stadia. [*] Σάμος πορθ-
Mòs, Fretum Samium. Strab. ibid. [ ] Το Ποσάδιον.
Strab. [z] Ἡ Μυκάλη τὸ ὄρος ἔνθηρον και εύδενδρον. Strab.
ibid.
State
7. Ruins of an ancient Town.
9.The Cape of Neptune. Axoτnocor:
1.Calabacte Mountain.
2. Ruins of Iuno's Temples.
3. Ruins of Town of Samos.
4.Ruins of another ancient Town.
5.Mycale or Sampson's Mountain.
6.Ruins of an ancient Town
in the narrowest part of Petty Boughas.
8. Iſland NârtexisNnoidior Naqbnxış Strab.
Lag
SAMOS
Port
of
Prasonisi Rock
Burles
S. Elijah
Carlova
To Toбcidior
Port Seitan
Palac
Capre
of
Vali
Gallies
Caftanut
marea
Pirgos Gueitani
Metelinous
aniticorto
Cape of
Samos
a onda
Myles
Maratrocam
Grand Boughas
Port of
Tigagni
ANATOLI
Spatari
Pape Colonne
To Heater
Τροχιστον
Nn cos
ερωγώλιος
Arga Pes
Mycales Strat
Grand
Samopoula
Found
Ripara Plinii trisula,
St Menas
aspera.
گی
Scale of 15 Miles Greek
+
10
15
LatusTruennensi Strab.
Deſcription of the Island of Samos. 89
State Strabo deſcribes it; namely, a very fine
Country for Hunting, well wooded, and full of
Deer: 'tis call'd the Mountain of Samfon, be-
caufe of a Village of the fame Name not far off,
and which in all appearance was built on 'the
Ruins of the antient Town of [z] Priene, where
Bias, one of the feven Wife Men of Greece, had
his Birth. The Robbers that haunt thefe parts in
Troops, did not permit us to get a nearer Infight
into this Matter, nor likewife whether the Village
of Tchangli ftands in the fame Place where was
the famous Panionium [a], where affembled the
Deputies of the twelve Towns of Ionia, among
which Samos held a confiderable Rank: in this
facred Place the moft weighty Affairs were wont
to be regulated, after facrificing to Neptune [b].
Tchangli is between Samos and Scalanova, to the
North of Mycale [c], exactly in the Pofition
Strabo affigns to Panionium. There wants only an
Inſcription to authorize this Point.
In the middle of this Strait towards its
Southern Mouth, on a Rock, is erected an an-
tient Chapel; and the little Inland which the
Antients call [d] Nartecis, is placed between
this Rock and the Iſle of Samos. Nartecis helps
to determine the Situation of Neptune's Cape,
which took its Name from a Temple dedicated
to that God [e]. The King has a Medal of Com-
modus, the Reverfe whereof reprefents Neptune
and Jupiter; the Legend is of the [f] Samians.
The grand Boghas is to the [g] South-weft of
the Ifland, between the Weſtern Point, call'd
the [b] Cape of Samos, and the grand Iſle of
[x] Пevý. Strab. [α] Τὸ ἢ Πανιώνιον ἐπὶ τῆς Μυ
ndans xwess isgós. Herod. lib. 1. [6] Strab. lib. 8.
[c] Ποσειδον Ελικονίας. [4] Νησίδιον ἡ Ναρθηκίς. Strab.
Ber. Geog. lib. 14. [ε] Εχει ϋ νεών Ποσειδώνος, πρόκειται
5 dute voidov Nagonxis. Ibid. [ƒ] Legend. CAMION.
5
[g] A. Labech. [b] Kaváriov. Strab. lib. 14.
Fourni.
90
A VOYAGE into the Levant.
Fourni. This Strait is eight Miles broad, and
not above ten Miles diftant from Nicaria: accord-
ingly they reckon eighteen Miles from Samos to
Nicaria, from Cape to Cape. All the Ships
coming down from Conftantinople into Syria and
Egypt, after refting at Scio, are obliged to pafs
through one of thefe Straits. The fame muft
they do, that go up from Egypt to Conftantinople.
Here they meet with good Harbours, and it
would be too long a Courſe for 'em to pafs to-
wards Mycone and Naxia: fo that theſe Boghas
are very proper Places for the Corfairs to fpy
what Ships pafs to and fro.
Tho' the Paffage from Scalanova to Samos is
but twenty-five Miles, we were obliged, by rea-
fon of a Calm, to put in behind a ſmall Rock
call'd [b] Prafonifi, very near the little Boghas.
We went afhore next day, the 30th of January,
and in two Hours and a half got to Vati, a Vil-
lage in the North of the Iſland on the Deſcent of
a Mountain, within a Mile of the Port. There
are ſcarce more than 300 Houfes in this Village,
with five or fix Chapels; but both the one and
the other are ſcurvily built, tho' this is one of
the moſt confiderable Places of the Iſland.
The Villages of the Southern Coaft are [i] Cora,
which in vulgar Greek fignifies the City, and yet
it fcarce contains 600 Houfes, and moft of 'em
empty, ever ſince the Country was ravaged by
Morofini, General of the Venetian Army. Cora
is two Miles from the Sea, adjoining to the
Ruins of the antient Town of Samos. Its Air is
at this time unwholefom, becauſe of the Waters
ftagnating in the Plain, which formerly empty'd
themſelves in the Sea; yet is the Country fruitful,
and pleaſant to the Eye. Within a League of
Cora is a fmall Village call'd [k] Miles, or the
[4] Πρασονήσι. [i] Xωρα. [4] Miaus.
Mills
Deſcription of the Iland of Samos. 91
Mills; next comes [] Bavonda, four Miles from
the Sea the other Villages to the South are
[m] Neocorio, two Miles from the Coaft; [n] Guei-
tani, three Miles; [o] Maratrocampo, the like
diſtance; [p] Eforeo, five Miles; [q] Spatarei, on
Cape Coloune; [r] Sureca is hard by. [s] Paleo-
caftro is two Miles from the Sea, North; [t] Vour-
lotes, the like; Fourni, three Miles; [u] Car-
lovaffi, one Mile; and [x] Caftania is at the foot
of the Mountain Catabate, as alfo [y] Albaniti-
corio. We must add to theſe Villages, [z] Platano,
the handſomeſt of 'em all; [a] Pyrgos and [b] Co-
marea, which are about the middle of the Ifland.
This Ifland is full of Eminencies and Precipi-
ces, whence it had its Name; for, according to
Conftantine Porphyrogenetes, the antient Greeks uſed
to give the Name of Samos to fuch places as were
very high. There's nothing agreeable in this
Iſland but the Plain of Cora. The great Chain
of Mountains croffing Samos from one end to
the other, was uſed to be call'd [c] Ampelos. Its
Weſtern Part, which dips into the Sea towards
Nicaria, retain'd the fame Name; it was alſo
call'd [d] Cantharium and [e] Cerceteus. 'Tis this
terrible Rock that makes the Cape of Samos. The
Greeks have preferv'd to it the Name of Kerki,
which founds fomewhat like Cerceteus. They alfo
call it [f] Catabate, which fignifies a Precipice.
[1] Bavovda. [m] Navxwelo. [x] Telave. [0] Ma-
Ναυχωριο. Τελανι.
_[n]
ρυθροκαμπο. [3] Εσορεο. [1] Σπαταρει. [7] Συν
[3] Παλαίκας sv. [1] Υγρλοτες.
est.
[κ] Καρλε-
[*] Καςανια. [y] Αλβανιτοχωριο. [*] Πλα-
Kasavia.
τάνοι. [α] Πύργος. [6] Κομαρέα. [c] Άμπελος.
[d] Kavdelov. Strab. lib. 14. [e] To bees & KERNETEÓS.
Κερκετός.
Strab. lib. 10. [ƒ] Katabáтn, Mountain of Precipices. Ka-
Tabaivw, deſcendo. Or else this Name may be occafion'd from
being often ftruck with Thunder: Καταβάτης Ζεύς, παρὰ τὸ
HaTabiba av & negauvóv. Suid. Jul. Poll. lib. 1. cap. 1. Li-
banius Legat. ad Julian. Paufan. Eliac. prior. Pharnutus in Jovis
cognominibus, peak of Jupiter Karaláτns, who darts the
Thunder.
ρέκα.
ασσι.
While
92
A VOYAGE into the Levant.
While Greece was in its Splendor, this Iſland
was very populous and well manur'd. At top of
the Mountains are ftill to be feen Rows of Walls
for bounding the Lands. I don't think there
are at preſent in Samos above 12,000 Men, all of
the Greek Church. There are not above three
Families of Turks; that of the Cadi, that of the
Aga, who live both at Cora; and that of the
Aga's Subdelegate, who refides at Carlovaffi, or
at Vati, the Manfion of the Vice-conful of France.
The Aga is properly only a Waivod, fent to col-
lect the Land-tax.
Once a year they chufe an Adminiftrator or two
in each Village, except Cora, Vati, and Carlo-
vaffi, where they elect two Papas and four
Burghers, in cafe there be fo many otherwiſe,
they take Maſters of Caicks, or Labourers. The
Papas themfelves are nothing but Peafants ad-
vanced to Orders, without any other Merit but
that of ſaying Mafs by heart. There are above
200 of 'em, and the number of Caloyers is ftill
greater; fo that the Ifland is govern'd by Church-
men, who poffefs feven Monafteries, namely,
[f] Our Lady of the Girdle, [g] Our Lady of the
Thunder, [b] Our Lady the Great, [i] St. Elijah, the
Convent of the [k] Cross, [1] St. George, and
[m] St. John.
There are four Nunneries in Samos; one at St.
Elijah, another near Our Lady the Great, a third
at Bavonda, and the laft at the Monaftery of the
Croſs: we were furthermore told, there were
above 300 private Chapels.
The Biſhop of this Ifland, who is alfo Biſhop
of Nicaria, refides at Cora, and enjoys about
2000 Crowns annual Income. Befides which, he
draws a confiderable Revenue by bleffing the Wa-
[1] Παναγια λαζονη. [g] Παναγια βρονδα. [3] Παντ
αγιό μεγάλη. [i] Ἅγιος Ηλιας. [7] Σταυρος. [4] Αγια
ος Γεώργιος. [m] Άγιος Ιωάννης Θεόλογος.
ters
Vol. I.
Yomes
lamos.
Pao.308.
Defcription of the Island of Samos. 93
ters and the Cattle, which Ceremony is perform'd
the beginning of May. All the Milk-meats and
all the Cheeſe that are made that Day, belong to
the Biſhop: he has likewife two Beafts out of
every Herd.
The Samians live at their Eafe, and are not
tyranniz'd over by the Turks. The Ifland is
rated at 1290 Billets to the Capitation, at five
Crowns a Billet; which comes to 6450 Crowns.
The Aga, who puts his Seal on every Billet, ex-
acts likewiſe one Crown; and the Papas, who
will be meddling in every thing, and who fettle
the Allotment of the Billets, claim ten Pence
each Billet [n]; fo that the private Men pay fix
Crowns ten Pence. The Cuftoms of the Ifland
are farm'd but at 10,000 Crowns: 'tis thought
the Aga, who levies the Duties, gets full as much.
Whenever a Greek dies without Male Iffue, the
Aga is Heir to all his arable Lands: the Vine-
yards, the Olive Plantations, and the Gardens
belong to the Daughters, and his Relations may
have the Refufal when the Lands are to be fold.
The Aga's Silk pays 4 per-Cent. Cuftom: the
Aga has great Perquifites out of this Com-
modity.
The Women of this Ifland are very nafty and
ugly, and don't ſhift above once a Month. Their
Habit is a Veft after the Turkish manner, with a
red Coif, and a Taffel yellow or white, which
hangs down their back, as does their Hair,
which moſt commonly they part into a couple
of Treffes, at the Bottom whereof hangs a Bunch
of finall Plates of Block-tin or Silver of a coarfe
Alloy, for they have fcarce any other in this
Country.
The Land-tax here is about 12,000 Crowns.
A Tenth is likewiſe paid out of all forts of Grain
[n] Two Timins.
and
94
A VOYAGE into the Levant.
and Fruit, without excepting the very Onions
and Gourds. They have abundance of Melons,
Lentiles, French-beans, &c. The Mufcadine
Grapes are the beft and beautifulleft Fruit of the
Ifland: when they are ripe, the Vineyards are
crouded with People; every body eats his fill, and
picks and chufes where he thinks fit. Good
Wine might be made of 'em, if they knew how
to make it, and put it into wooden Casks; but
the Greeks are extremely nafty, and befides they
can't forbear mixing Water with it: yet have I drank
excellent Muſcadine Wine at Samos, which had
been carefully made for the Account of our Smyr-
na Merchants. They gather about 3000 Barrels
of Muſcadine at Samos. Each Barrel weighs 158
Pounds 4 Ounces [o]; and a Load of this Wine,
which is a Barrel and a half, fells on the Spot
from 4 to 7 Livres 10 Sous; that of red Wine is
worth but 4 Livres, or 100 Sous. This is a deep-
colour'd Wine, and would be good, if it were
not mix'd with Water: 'tis carry'd to Scio,
Rhodes, and Napoli di Romania. The Greeks pay
4 or 5 per Cent. for exporting this Wine, or
more, juft as the Cuftom-houſe Officers pleaſe:
the French pay but half as much. No Duty is
paid to the Grand Signior; [p] but every Piece
of a Vineyard that has fifty Paces in length, and
twenty in breadth, pays him [9] forty Sous per
Annum.
The Impoſt on Oil is after the rate of 10
per Cent. The Greeks for the Export of this
Commodity pay 4 per Cent. and the French 2
per Cent. but the whole feldom exceeds 8 or 900
Barrels, each weighing as much as the Barrels
of Wine, i. e. 158 Pounds. They'll fell you
1139 Pound for a Crown.
[o] Fifty Oques. [p] Erganos. [2] An Ifolotes.
They
Defcription of the Island of Samos.
95
They every Year lade three Barks with Wheat
for France. Each Bark contains 8 or 900 Mea-
fures, that is, 60,000 or 67,500 pound weight,
for each Meaſure is 75 Pound. It is call'd
a Quilot: the Quilot is three Panaches, each
Panache is 8 Oques, and the Oques are 25
Pound. Befides the common Grain, they fow
in Samos a great deal of large white Millet [r],
which they call Chicri. The poorer fort, in mak-
ing their Bread, mix half Wheat and half Bar-
ley and white Millet. Some mix only Millet and
Barley, of both which they have Plenty in this
Iſland.
What Figs they dry, are only for their own
ufe: they are very white, and three or four times
as big as thoſe of Marſeilles, but not of fo delicate
a Tafte. Caprification is not practis'd in this
Iſland, and therefore the Fig-trees are leſs fruit-
ful here than elſewhere. We thought their
Cheeſe none of the beſt: they put 'em new into
Leathern Veffels with falt Water, and let 'em
drain and dry at leifure: the Cuſtom is to fend
once a year three Bark-load of it to France: 100
pound Weight cofts but two Crowns, or a
Sequin.
:
The Pine-trees, in the North of the Ifland,
yield about 3 or 400 Quintals of Pitch 'tis
worth a Crown a Quintal, and pays 4 per Cent.
Cuftom. [s] Velanides is another Commodity
this Inland exports to Venice, and Ancona: 'tis that
fort of Acorn which the Tanners ufe when re-
duced to Powder, and of which I have given a
Defcription already. Samos was antiently call'd
the [] Iland of Oaks, upon occafion of the vaſt
Numbers of Oaks it produced.
[r] Milium arundinaceum plano alboque femine. C. B.
[] Bendre Benavid. Gland. [] Agúra, Steph.
Βελάνι και Βελανίδι.
The
96
AVOYAGE into the Levant.
7
The Silk of this Inland is very fine; 'tis worth
4 Livres 10 Sols, or 100 Sols a Pound [u]. This
Traffick, one Year with another, may be rated
at twenty or twenty-five Thoufand Crowns.
Their Honey and Wax are admirable: fifty
pound Weight of Honey fells for a Crown, but
their Wax is worth nine or ten Sous a Pound.
They gather no less than 200 Quintals of Ho-
ney, but of Wax fcarce 100 : the Quintal
weighs 140 Pound, as it does in all the other
Parts of Turkey.
The Scammony [x] of Samos is not over-
good: it is of a red colour, hard, tough, and
confequently not eafy to break. It not only
purges with violence, but oftentimes occafions
Gripings of the Bowels, and very uneafy Su-
per-purgations: we did not ſee the Plant it comes
from, becauſe it fhoots not before the end of
March or beginning of April. They fhew'd us
for the Plant of Scammony, [] the young Stalks
of a fort of Bind-weed, whofe Leaves are not
unlike thoſe of our little Bind-weed, but that
they are larger, hairy, flafh'd at their Bafis not
fo prettily as thofe of the Syrian Scammony.
The Scammony of Samos anfwers perfectly well
to Diofcorides's Defcription of it: it grows in the
Plains of Myfia between Mount Olympus and
Mount Sipyli: but 'tis ftrange, that in the Days
of Diofcorides they ſhould prefer the Juice of this
Species to that of Scammony of Judea, which is
the fame with that of Syria; for Experience
obliges us to reject that of Myfia or of Smyrna,
and ſtick to the uſe of that of Aleppo or Syria.
That of Samos and Scalanova is confumed in Ana-
tolia. It is Cuftom-free, and but little is tranf
ported to the Weſtern Parts of the World.
[u] 18 or 20 Timins the Pound. [+] Махмута ху
Μαχμοτία. [] Convolvulus minor, arventis, C. B.
The
Vol. I.
A Francolin.
a fort of Fowl frequenting
the Marjhes
Pag. 311.
Defcription of the Iſland of Samos. 97
The Fecundity of the Ifland of Samos was mat-
ter of Admiration with the Antients. [y] Strabo
was raviſh'd with every individual thing in it, ex-
cept the Wine: but belike he never tafted its
Muſcadine Wine, or perhaps they never bethought
themſelves of making any. [z] Athenæus, after
Athlius, reports that the Fig-trees, Apple-trees,
Rofe-trees, and the Vines too of this Iſland, bore
Fruit twice a year. Pliny [a] takes notice of the
Pomegranates of Samos, fome of which had red
Seeds, others white. Befides Fruit, the Country
is at this time full of Wild-fowl, Partridge,
Woodcock, Snipe, Thruſhes, Wood-pidgeons,
Turtle-doves, Wheatears. Its Poultry too is ex-
cellent: Heath-cocks are not common there, but
keep to the Sea-fide between the little Boghas and
Cora, [] near a marfhy Pool, which we have
not omitted in our Chart: they call 'em [c] Mea-
dow-partridge. There are no Rabbits in Samos,
but abundance of Hares, wild Boars, Goats,
and fome Deer. They breed much Cattle: they
have fewer Sheep than Goats. The French lade
a Bark with Wooll once a year: 'tis fold at the
Rate of 5 Sols for 3 Pound 2 Ounce Weight.
Partridges you may have for three-pence a
Brace. The Natives not knowing how to ſhoot
flying, wait for 'em along the Brooks where they
come to drink in Droves, like Larks: they'll
kill you ſeven or eight at a Time, nay fifteen
or twenty. The Mules and Horfes of the Inland
are not handſom, but are good Goers; and tho'
they let 'em graze as they lift, without confining
'em to Incloſures, they never ftray from their
Owners Houſes, and are eaſily taken up when-
[y] Ὅτι φέρει καὶ ὀρνίθων γάλα, κατάτες τε και Μέναι-
des on. Strab. Rer. Geog. lib. 14. [2] Athen. Deipn.
[a] Hift. Nat. lib. 13. c. 19. [6] Taywváu.
lib. 14.
Attagen. [2] Λιβαδι πέρδικες.
Vol. II.
H
ever
98
A VOYAGE into the Levant.
ever there's occafion. They breed a great many
Beeves, but know not what a Buffalo is. The
Wolves and Jackals do fometimes a deal of Mif-
chief. They have fome Tygers too, which
come from the Terra-firma by the little Boghas.
Samos does not want for Iron Mines: moſt of
the Land looks of the Colour of Ruft. All about
Bavonda is full of a Bolus, deep red, very fine,
very dry, and ſticks to the Tongue. It is a na-
tural Saffron of Mars, from whence they extract
Iron, by the Affiftance of Linfeed Oil. Samos
was heretofore famed for Earthen Ware [e]:
perhaps it was this Earth about Bavonda. Accord-
ing to [f] Aulus Gellius, the Samians were the
firft Inventors of the Pottery Trade; now no
body follows it, and they uſe the Ancona Wares
intirely the [g] Jars for Brandy and Wine
come from Scio. With taking ever fo little Pains,
one would find at Samos thoſe two forts of white
Earth [b] which were uſed medicinally by
the Antients; but they don't concern themfelves
about fuch Enquiries, any more than for the Sa-
mian Stone, [i] which was not only of ufe to
poliſh Gold withal, but was very prevalent in
many Distempers.
The Emery Stone is not ſcarce in this Iſland.
Oker is common about Vati: it takes a very fine.
yellow being put in the Fire, and if it lies there
long, turns to a brownish red: it has no manner
of Tafte, and naturally ftains a fillamot Colour.
There is found about Carlovaffi a very black and
fine Earth, but altogether infipid; which, be-
cauſe it ferves to dye fowing Thread of a black
Colour, ſhould ſeem to partake of Vitriol.
[e] Samia vafa etiamnum in efculentis laudantur. Plin. Hift.
Nat. Nos Samio delectamur. Cic. in Verrem. [f] Aul.
Gell. lib. 5. [8] Στάμνα. [6] Κολλύριον καὶ ἀςπρ.
Diofc. lib. 5. c. 172. Plin. Hift. Nat. lib. 32. [i] Diofc.
ibid. cap. 173. Plin. Hift. Nat. lib. 36. cap. 21.
All
Defcription of the Island of Samos. 99
All the Mountains of this Iſland are of white
Marble. On the way from Vati to the little
Boghas there's a very beautiful Pillar, not yet
loofen❜d from its Quarry. I was told there was a
fine Jafper towards Platano. Theſe Mountains
are very cool, full of Springs cover'd over with
Trees, and very delightful. The moſt noted
Streams are that of Metelinous, and that which
runs beyond the Ruins of the Temple of Juno.
The Port of Vati, which looks to the North-
weft, is the beſt of the Ifland. Ships come to an
Anchor on the right, in a fort of a Bay form'd
by a little Hill jutting out like a Pot-hook. This
Port, which is capacious enough for a large
Fleet, gave occafion to build a Town there; its
Ruins, tho' without any Badges of Magnificence,
look to be of a vaft Extent: it has been forfaken
a long time by the Inhabitants, for fear of the
Corfairs. Fetching a Compafs round the Iſland
from this Port Weftward, you come to the Coaft
of Carlovaff, which is fit for nothing but Caicks
or large Boats, and thofe too muſt be tow’d
afhore. The Port Seitan [k] is nine Miles off Car-
lovafh; but it is the worft Port of the whole
Iſland, and the North-wind is fatal to moft
Veffels there. Beyond Seitan the Iand ter-
minates by the Mountain of [] Catabate, which
makes the Cape of Samos, and the Cape forms
one of the Sides of the great Boghas: when a
Storm threatens, you must retreat into fome Port
of the Iſlands of Fourni, on the right. After
doubling the Cape of Samos, you come to Mara-
tracampo: thence you pals between the Iſland of
[m] Samapoula and the Cape Colonne, named the
[n] Cape of Juno, on account of a Temple hard
[k] Seitan, in the Turkish Language fignifies the Devil.
[Karabáтn, de naтálaris, Defcenfus. [m] Ripara.
Plin. Hift. Nat. [n] To Hector. Strab. Rer. Geog. They
alfo call it Cape de Cora, and White Cape. Asenalo.
H =
by,
100 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
by, facred to that Goddeſs. From this Cape
you enter into a very convenient Port, but too
much expos'd to the South-eaft Wind; which
made the Antients to build on the Coaft of Cora,
over againſt the Town of Samos, a beautiful
Mole, to fhelter their Gallies: this Mole now
goes by the name of Tigani, becaufe of its Round-
nefs; for in vulgar Greek Tigani fignifies a
round Cake.
In the little Boghas, over againſt the Moun-
tain of Samfon, is a Retreat for Ships, call'd the
Gally-port; about which we difcern'd the Ruins
of an antient Town, and the Remains of two
Temples, as we conjectured from five or fix
Columns lying on the Ground. The one was
built on an Eminence, and the other in a Bot-
tom: the Ruins of the Town are full of Bricks,
interfpers'd with fome Pieces of white Marble and
bits of Columns of Jafper ftain'd red and white.
At the Point of the Port, the narroweſt Part of
the Boghas, are the Foundations of an antient
Tower of Marble: the People of the Country
pretend there uſed to be Chains a-croſs to bar the
Strait; adding withal, that there are ſtill to be
ſeen on the other fide, which is on the Terra-firma,
certain maffy Rings of Brafs for that very pur-
pofe. The laft Port of the Iſland is that of Pra-
fonifi, behind a Rock fo call'd, between the
Boghas and the Port of Vati. Before you dif
cover this Port, you pafs by three or four Rocks,
the chief of which is call'd Didafcalo or Dafcalio,
within Gun-fhot of the Ifland: this, they fay,
was formerly the College or School of the whole
Country.
I have nothing farther to add in relation
to the Ports of the Ifland. The old Town
of Samos extended from the Port of Tigani,
which is three Miles from Core, to as far as
the
Defcription of the land of Samos. 101
the [c] great River which runs within 500 Paces
of the Ruins of the Temple of Juno: for [d[ Strabo
advances, that one of the Suburbs of this Town
was at the Cape of Juno: the fame Author writes,
that Tembrio, and Procles after him, built Samos.
The Tranſlation has it Patrocles, but 'tis much
more probable it fhould be King Procles. Vitru-
vius [e] pretends, the Town of Samos, and the
thirteen Towns of Ionia, were the Work of Ion
the Athenian, who gave Ionia its Name.
Tho' Samos is intirely deftroy'd, yet may it be
divided into Upper and Lower, for the better
underſtanding the Plan. The upper Town took
up the Hill, North; and the lower ran along
the Sea-fhore from Port Tigani to the Cape of
Juno. Tigani, which is the Gally-port of the An-
tients, as I faid e'en now, is in form of a Half-
moon, and regards the South-eaft: its left Horn
is that famed Jettee, which Herodotus [f] rec-
kon'd among the three Wonders of Samos. This
Jettee was 20 Toifes in height, and advanced
above 250 Paces into the Sea. So extraordinary
a Work at that time of day, is an Evidence of
the Samians Application to Marine Matters:
[g] and fo we find 'em receiving with
open Arms
Aminocles the Corinthian, the ableft Ship-wright
of his time, who built 'em four Ships, about
300 Years before the end of the Peloponnefian
War. It was the Samians that carry'd Batus to
Cyrene, above 600 Years before Chrift: in fhort,
we have Pliny's Word for it [b], that they were
the Inventors of Tranfport Ships for carriage of
Cavalry.
From the Port of Tigani we afcended an Emi-
nence thick fet with Marble Tomb-ftones, with-
[ε] ο Ιμβρασος ποταμός. Strab. lib. 14. Μεγάλος που
ταμὸς, in vulgar Greek. [4] Τὸ προάσείον τὸ προς τω
TO TWS
Heai Strab. ibid. [e] Archit. lib. 4. cap. 1. [f] Lib. 3.
[g] Thucyd. lib. 1. [] Hift. Nat.
H 3
out
102 A VOYAGE into the Levant,
out either Sculpture or Infcriptions. Thence,
Northward, begin the Remains of the Walls of
the upper Town, on the Slope of a rugged
Mountain. This Compafs continuing to the Top,
form'd a large Angle towards the Weft, after
running the whole Length of the Mountain's
Side. Thefe Walls, by what appears, were very
noble, eſpecially thofe in fight of Cora: they
were ten foot thick, and in fome Places twelve,
built with huge Scantlings of Marble, cut for the
moſt part facet-wife like Diamonds. We faw no-
thing in all the Levant to compare with them:
the Inter-fpaces were Maſonry: all the Redoubts
were of Marble, and had their Fauffe-ports to
throw in Soldiers on occafion.
The Brow of the Mountain, Southward, was
cover'd with Houfes in form of an Amphitheatre,
and faced the Sea. Below is ftill feen the Place
of a Theatre, the Materials whereof have been
carry'd away to build Cora. It was fituated on
the right of a Chapel, call'd [i], Our Lady of a
thousand Sails, or, Our Lady of the Grotto, on ac-
count of a remarkable Grotto fill'd with Conge-
lations. In the Places about the Chapel are
abundance of Marble Pillars, fome round, others
pannel'd.
Going down from the Theatre to the Sea, you
behold a world of broken Pillars, moft of 'em
either channel'd or in Pannels; fome round,
thers channel'd on the fides with a Plat-band be-
fore and behind, like thoſe of the Frontifpiece of
Apollo's Temple at Delos. There are alfo feveral
other Columns with different Profiles on fome adja-
cent Rifings: their Difpofition ftill is round or in
fquares, which makes me guefs they ferv'd for
Temples or Porticos. The like we fee in many
other Places up
and down the Iſland.
[1] Παναγία Κιλιαρμόνισσα και Σπιλιανα.
The
Deſcription of the Iſland of Samos. 103
The Ruins of the Houſes, among which they
now drive the Plough, are of ordinary Maſonry,
mix'd with Bricks and fome pieces of Marble, ad-
orn'd with Mouldings, or fimply fquared out.
We faw no Inſcriptions: thofe made when Greece
was in its Glory, are either fo broken or defaced,
they can't be underſtood.
As for the Breadth of the Town, it took up
part of that fine Plain which comes from Cora as
far as to the Sea, Southward; and Weftward, as
far as to the River that runs beyond the Ruins of
Juno's Temple. The Water was convey'd by an
Aqueduct, the Remains whereof are ſtill in part
to be ſeen as you come from Miles to Pyrgos,
as likewife at the Port of the [k] Farm of the
grand Convent of our Lady. Thefe Canals or
Aqueducts were of excellent Brick made of Ba-
vonda Earth, and were very neatly fet in.
Befides this Aqueduct, the Waters that come
from Metelinous, empty themſelves likewife at the
Entrance of the lower Town, after having
pafs'd under the Arches of an Aqueduct crofs
the Dale leading from Cora to Vati. On the
right of this Dale is the Mountain whereon is
built the upper Town: on the left is a Moun-
tain, which I ſhall hereafter call the perforated
Mountain, for certain Reafons which fhall be
given. You paſs over this fmall Stream along
the Sea-fhore, going from Tigani to the Ruins
of the Temple: hereabouts are ſtill to be
feen the Badges of a very confiderable Chri-
ftian Church. Beyond this Stream you cross
another, which comes directly from Cora, and in
all appearance ferv'd the upper Town with Water.
[4] Μετόχι της μεγάλης παναγίας. Μετόχι, which
fignifies in vulgar Greek a Farm, a Country-houfe: it comes from
eToianos, habitatio.
H 4
On
104 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
On the left of the Dale, near to the Aqueduct
that croffes it, are certain Caverns: the Entrance
of fome of 'em was artificially cut; and if we
may believe the People of the Country, they
have ferv'd for above 2000 Years as Sheltring-
places to the Sheep, Goats, and Cows: and for
that reaſon the Land there is full of Nitre. We
were told they had ſhut up one of thefe Caverns
where this Salt is perfectly cryftalliz'd: the
Turks are neither induftrious nor ingenious enough
to make uſe of it, and would lay by the heels
fuch Greeks as ſhould prefume to touch 'em.
In all appearance fome of theſe artificial Ca-
verns were what Herodotus fays were rank'd a-
mong the moft wonderful Performances of the
Greek Nation. Eupalinus, the Architect of Megara,
was the Contriver of this likewife. The Samians,
to uſe the words of Herodotus, bored through a
Mountain 150 Toifes deep; and in this Opening,
which was 875 Paces long, they form'd a Canal
twenty Cubits deep and three Foot broad, to convey to
their Town the Waters of a beautiful Spring. The
Entrance of this Opening is ftill to be feen: the
other parts have been fill'd up fince then. The
beautiful Spring which tempted 'em to go upon
fo great a Work, is doubtless that of Metelinous,
which I fhall take notice of in its proper place;
for this Village is feated on the other fide of the
bored Mountain. From this marvellous Canal
the Water paſs'd through the Aqueduct that
crofles the Dale, and proceeded to the Town by
a Conduit, which took the fame turn as the Canal
of Cora. The Canal that crofs'd the Mountain,
is of a furprizing deepnefs; but this perhaps they
were obliged to, for preferving the Level of the
Spring. Laurentius Valla had no good Grounds
for believing that the Breadth of its Canal was
triple its Depth; for certainly the Opening, by
what
Defcription of the Island of Samos. 105
what now appears of it, could not be above fixty
Cubits broad: beſides, a Canal of this diameter,
and twenty Cubits deep, would be capable of car-
rying a large River inſtead of a Spring. M. du
Ryer feems not to have underſtood this Paffage of
Horodotus []; for, according to his Tranſlation,
the Spring ſhould iffue out of the bored Moun-
tain; whereas the Mountain was bored on purpoſe
to bring the Water that way.
Some 500 Paces from the Sea, and almoft the
like diſtance from the River Imbrafus, towards
Cape Cora, are the Ruins of the famous Temple
of [m] Samian Juno, that is, Juno the Protectreſs
of Samos. The more ingenious fort of Papas
ftill call it by the Name of Juno's Temple. Me-
nodotus the Samian, cited in Athenæus as the Au-
thor of a Tractate about the Curiofities of Samos,
fays that it was built by Caricus and fome Nymphs;
for this Ifland was firft in poffeffion of the Carians.
Paufanias fays, it was fuppos'd to be the Work of
the Argonauts, who had brought from Argos to
Samos a Statue of the Goddeſs, and that the
Samians afferted that Juno was born on the Banks
of the River Imbrafus under one of thofe Trees
we call [n] Agnus Caftus. It is true theſe Trees
are very frequent along this River, and indeed
throughout the Ifland, and the whole Archipelago.
The Stump of the Agnus-caftus was fhewn in way
of Veneration for a long time in the Temple of
Juno. Paufanias proves alfo the Antiquity of this
Temple from that of the Goddess's Statue, which
was the Workmanſhip of Smilis Sculptor of Egina,
Cotemporary of Dedalus. Clemens Alexandrinus,
on the Credit of Ethlius a very antient Author,
obferves, that the Statue of Juno at Samos was
[1] Arò pezárns anys. Herod. lib. 3. [m] Izegv Tus
"Heas. Deipn. lib. 15. [n] Avyos in antient and mo-
dern Greek.
only
106
AVOYAGE into the Levant.
only a Stump of Wood, afterwards form'd into
a Statue. Athenæus, on the Veracity of the fame
Menodotus whom we juſt now mention'd, forgets
not a famous Miracle which happen'd when the
Tyrrhenians would have carry'd off Juno's Statue :
thoſe Pirates were wind-bound, till fuch time as
they reſtored it again to its place. The Ifland
was much reforted to on account of this Prodigy,
which had ſpread its Fame far and near. [o] The
Temple was burnt by the Perfians, but it was not
long e'er it was rebuilt, and fo heap'd with
Riches, that in a very fhort fpace of time there
was no room for the Statues and Pictures. Verres
in his Return from Afia, notwithſtanding the Ex-
ample of the Tyrrhenians, made no fcruple to
rifle this Temple of whatever was valuable: Ci-
cero very juftly reflects on him for this Impiety.
Neither did the Pirates fhew any more refpect to
this Edifice in Pompey's time. Strabo calls it a
great Temple fill'd with Pictures and antique Or-
naments: among which, doubtlefs was that of
the Loves of Jupiter and Juno, reprefented fo
natural, that Origen [p] reproaches the Gentiles
with it. There was likewife in the Temple of
Samos a Court or Yard for the Statues, among
which were three Colloffus-like by Myron, on the
fame Baſe. Mark Anthony carry'd 'em away, but
Auguftus reftored thofe of Minerva and Hercules,
and only fent that of Jupiter to the Capitol, to be
placed in a little Temple he caus'd to be built
there.
Of ſo many fine things, we found but two
Reliques of Columns, and fome Bafes of the
beautifulleft Marble I ever faw. Some Years ago
the Turks imagining that one of theſe Columns
was full of Gold and Silver, attempted to de-
moliſh it by firing fome Cannon at it from on
[o] Paufan. 533. [] Lib. 4. contra Celf.
board
Vol. I.
Pag. 318.
UZ
A Column of the Temple
of Iuno at Samos.
I5
Defcription of the Island of Samos. 107
board their Gallies: and accordingly damaged it
very much.
Some Baſes of Columns are ſtill to be ſeen, and
look to be fquared out into a Parallellogram (or
long Square) but being intermix'd with feveral
Tympanums of demolifh'd Columns, there's no
afcertaining the Difpofition, and confequently the
Plan of the whole Edifice, which, according to
Herodotus, [q] was the third Wonder of Samos:
that Author owns it was the moft fpacious Temple
he ever beheld; and, but for him, we had never
known who was the Architect: he was a Samian,
one Rhacus by name.
This Rhecus had therein employ'd a very par-
ticular Order of Columns, as may be ſeen by the
Figure. It is indeed neither better nor worſe than
the Ionian Order in its infancy, void of that
Beauty it afterwards acquired. The Bafis of the
great Column juft now mention'd is two Foot eight
Inches high, with a large round Cordon below,
an Inch high: the Baſe is adorn'd with five annu-
lar deep Channellings: the other part of this
Bafe is of the diameter of the Shaft, but it is
terminated by a little Cordon or Edging: this
Bafis is pofited on a Pedeſtal eight Inches high,
girt with five Rings like fo many Hoops. There
remains but one fingle Chapiter, which we caus'd
to be uncover'd, for it was bury'd in the inclo-
fure of the Temple: this Chapiter, which at this
time is the only one in the World of its kind, is
one Foot ſeven Inches high, and anſwers to the
Profile of its Baſe. Its Tympanum has a large
Rouleau one Foot high, on which are cut Eggs in
Relief, each within its refpective Border; and
from the Interſpaces of the Borders hang Points
like Flames of Fire. There is a fmall Aftragal
below the Roulea: the Plan which bears upon the
[9] Lib 3.
Shaft
108 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
Shaft or Body of the Column, is four Foot three
Inches diameter, and concludes alfo in a ſmall
Aftragal. The Frontifpiece of the Temple faces
the Eaft and the Town of Samos, as may be
guefs'd from the Range of the two Columns.
mention'd before; for they range from North to
South. We dug above two Foot to come at the
Pedeſtal that ſupports the Bafe of the largeſt Co-
lumn, and this Pedeſtal bears on a well fquared
Piece of Marble, which perhaps was part of the
Steps of the Temple. Standing, as it does, in a
bottom, no wonder the Water has in fo long a
ſpace of time brought Earth enough to cover 'em.
If theſe Conjectures are true, the Face of the
Temple muſt not have been above 24 Toifes long,
for there's but that diſtance from the great Co-
lumn to that with one Tympanum: however,
as we have Herodotus and Strabo's word for it
that it was a great Temple, it is highly proba-
ble this is but part of that Face. We muſt not
be govern❜d by the Draught of that Temple, as
we find it on old Medals; for oftentimes they re-
prefent different Temples under the fame Form,
as I myſelf have obſerv'd in ſome of the Levant,
where the Temples of Ephefus and Samos were of
the fame Defign.
As for the Goddefs, fhe was differently habited,
according to the parts fhe acted: fhe was made
to prefide in [r] Marriage, in [s] Child-birth,
and [] other Accidents natural to Women :
[r] Juno Pronuba. Itaque nobiliffimum & antiquiffimum
templum ejus eft Sami, & fimulachrum in habitu nuben-
tis figuratum : & facra ejus anniverſaria nuptiarum ritu
celebrantur. Lactant. lib. I. de falfa Relig. cap. 17.
[s] Juno Lucina, apud Terent. in Andr. act. 3. ſeen. 1 Juno à
juvando dicta, inquit Donatus Lucina ab eo quod in lucem pro-
ducat: fic apud noftros Junonem Lucinam in pariendo invo-
cant, ait Cic. lib. 2. de Nat. Deor. [t] Dea Mena men-
ftruis fluoribus præeft. Aug. de Civ. Dei, 1.7.
but
Defcription of the Iland of Samos.
109
but as for the Garb peculiar to each reſpective
Ceremony, he muſt be a better Antiquary than
I am, to afcertain it. All I know of the mat-
ter, is, that the Crefcent or Half-moon on her
Head, and under her Feet, denoted the Monthly
Influence fhe had on the Fair Sex: whence fhe
was call'd the Goddefs of the Months. For
this reafon, perhaps, fhe was reprefented on
the Medals [v] of this Inland with Bracelets
hanging from her Arms down to her Feet, with
a Creſent over all. The Creſcent fignify'd the
Months, and the Bracelets fhew'd that fhe
had taught the Women how to reckon cer-
tain Days: as we ftill fee the People of the Eaft
caft their Accounts by the Beads of their Bracelets.
After all, I know nothing more obſcure than
thefe pretended Bracelets of Juno; for I fee no
foundation to believe with [x] Triſtanus, that what
I take for Bracelets, fhould be Beards of a Ship's
Anchor. Be it as it will, there's no great harm
in venturing fometimes into the Ocean of Diſco-
veries, tho' it abounds with Fictions. I therefore
propoſe it to the Curious to examine, whether
thefe fame Bracelets with a Crefent over 'em, may
not be an Attribute of Juno, betokening what I
have faid above concerning Women; or elfe,
whether they are only a fort of Ornament which
Juno advis'd 'em to wear; for that Goddefs was
the Inventor of Drefs, according to St. Athanafius.
Triftanus has given a Type of a Medal of the
Samians, repreſenting Juno with a very bare Neck.
She has a Tunick reaching to her Feet, with
a Girdle very tight about her: the folding of
the Tunick makes a fort of Apron her Veil
hangs from the top of her Head to the bottom
[v] MHNH CAMION, Is the Legend of a
Auguftus and Livia in Patin. Numifm. Imp. Rom.
ment. Hift. tom. I.
Medal of
[2] Com-
of
110 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
of the Tunick. The [y] Reverſe of a Medal in
the King's Cabinet, repreſents this Veil at its full
ftretch, making two Angles on the Hands, one
Angle on the Head, and another at the Heels. I
have fome Medals of Samos, where Juno's Neck is
cover'd with a fort of Camail, beneath which
hangs a Tunick with the Girdle placed cross-wife.
The Head of the laft Medals is crown'd with a
Hoop refting on each Shoulder, and ſupporting
on the top of its Bow a fort of Ornament picked
below, widening above, like a Pyramid revers'd.
On one of the Medals in the King's Cabinet,
that Goddeſs wears on her Head a [z] Bonnet
ſharp-pointed, terminated by a Crefcent: on o-
ther [a] Medals in the fame Cabinet is feen a
kind of Basket ferving that Goddeſs for a Head-
drefs, the other parts of her Habit reſembling
our Benedictine Monks. The Head-geer of the
Turkish Women is very like this of Juno, and
makes 'em look very graceful: that Goddeſs was
undoubtedly the Inventreſs of this becoming Dreſs
for the Head, and which our Commodes have
fince imitated. Juno, who prefided at Nuptials,
wore a [b] Crown of Cyperus (a fort of Rufh) and
of thofe Flowers call'd by us Immortal. A little
Basket was fill'd with 'em, and faſten'd to the
top of the Head: from hence perhaps comes the
cuſtom now in ufe in the Levant, of putting
Crowns on the Heads of the new-marry'd Couple.
The Abbot de Camps has a fine [c] Medallion of
Maximin, on the Reverſe whereof is the Temple.
of Samos, with Juno in the Nuptial Habit, and
two Peacocks at her Feet. [d] This Habit
differs not from thofe we have been ſpeaking of,
and Peacocks are reprefented on it, becauſe they
[y] Graved in Spanheim, ib. [2] Πάτος ἔνδυμα τῆς
"Heas.. Hefych. [a] Graved in Spanheim, ib. [b] Пи-
awv in Athen. Deipn. lib. 14. Jul. Pol. lib. 5. cap. 16.
[c] CAMION. [d] Athen. ibid.
were
Defcription of the Island of Samos. III
were bred about that Goddess's Temple, as
Birds facred to her.
Befides all thefe Medals I have been mention-
ing, I met with a very fair one of Tranquillina,
on the Reverſe whereof is Meleager, or rather Gor-
dianus, the Husband of that Empreſs, who flew a
wild Boar in hunting. In the King's Collection
there are more Medals of the fame Type, and an-
other with the Head of Decius.
The third of January we lay within a Mile
and a half of Cora, in the Farm of the great
Convent of the Virgin. This Farm is but a quarter
of a League from the Ruins of a Temple, in a
Plain full of Vines, Olive, Mulberry, and O-
range-trees, eſpecially about Miles, which is not
above two Miles from the Farm. The first of
February we fet out for the great Convent ten
Miles from the Farm, and dined there: it is fi-
tuated half way up agreeable Mountains, cover'd
with Holm-oaks, Pine-trees, Philarea, Adrach-
ne: we found fome Stocks of this Tree with
large Fruit ending in a point; it fhall be deſcribed
hereafter, as alfo a fine fort of Germander with
Betony-leaves, which grows about the fame place.
After we had eaten fome Olives, and drank a
Glafs or two of rat-gut Wine in this Convent,
we went to Pyrgos, a Town ſeven Miles off; the
Neighbourhood whereof abounds with a fine fort
of [a] Cachrys, which at this time was in flower.
The ſecond of February we went through Platano,
eight Miles from Pyrgos, thence by the Convent
of St. Elijah four Miles off. That Evening we lay
at Neocorio, which is one of the three Villages
that form the Town of Carlovali two Miles from
the Sea.
[a] Cachrys Cretica, Angelica folio, Afphodeli radice,
Caral. Inft. Rei Herb. 23.
The
112 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
The third of February we took horſe for the
great Mountain of Catabate, which is at the far-
ther end of the Ifland: our Guides led us direct-
ly to Maratbrocampo, eight Miles from Carlovaffi,
and we ſpent the Night in St. George's Farm be-
longing to the Convent of St. John of Patmos.
The fourth of February we went to fee the
Chapel, or rather the Hermitage of [b] Our
Lady of fair Appearance, which is four Miles off,
in a Bottom commanded by fome hideous Rocks.
The Solitude is charming, but the Mouth of the
Cavern where the Chapel ftands, is frightful:
you go up by a Stair-cafe almoſt perpendicular.
In the bottom of the Cavern they have cut a
beautiful Confervatory of Water, which they
draw up from an amazing Profundity. This
Chapel is as homely as the other Greek Chapels.
Our Guides cou'd by no means be prevail'd on
to advance farther on the Mountains: the Cold
was very piercing, and their Mules would have
been ftarv'd with hunger in thofe defart Places:
ſo we return'd to Marathrocampo, in order to viſit
another Solitude more gloomy than the former,
and very properly named, [c] Our Lady of the
Bad Way. We did not get thither till next Day,
after having crofs'd over not a few Mountains o-
verrun with Pine-trees, Broom, and Arbute-trees:
this folitary place gave us hopes of finding fome
Plants worthy notice.
The Chapel of Cacoperata is alfo in a Cavern,
into which you go through a fort of Trap-door
cut in the Rock. The Greeks love to build their
Chapels in places of the moſt difficult accefs,
which they fancy more proper to ſtrike an Awe
and inſpire Devotion, than fuch as are in an open
ferene Spot of Ground. Cacoperata is one of the
moſt difmal Hermitages I ever faw in my life:
[4] Παναγία Φαναιρούν. [4] Παναγία Κακοπέρατα.
the
Defcription of the land of Samos. 113
the Path that leads to it is about 300 Paces long,
cut in the craggy Rock, and not above half a Foot
broad in fome places: on the left hand 'tis as much
as one can do to keep from falling, on the right
are nothing but Precipices made by Nature directly
perpendicular, where a Man would be dafh'd to
pieces, fhould his Foot happen to flip.
We went back that Day to Carlovaſſi, and em-
bark'd for Nicaria the next Day, being Febr. 6,
but the South-weſt Wind [d] forc'd us into Port
Seitan, not above nine Miles from Carlovaſſi.
They may well call this Port by the Name of Seitan,
which in Turkish fignifies the Devil. We were
fain to hale our Caick afhore; and in the Night-
time a Veffel was loft, laden with Wine for the
Simies. The North-wind kept us at Seitan till
the twelfth of February. We lodg'd in a Cave, where
we burnt nothing Day and Night but Laurels,
Adrachnes, and Storax. We had but a very indif-
ferent time of it: our Bifcuit began to fall fhort,
and the Weather was unfit either for Hunting or
Fiſhing 'twas as much as we could do to catch
a few of the Fifh call'd the Goats-eyes, or the
like but what was ftill worfe, we had drank
out all the Water we could find among the ad-
joining Rocks, where we carry'd our Leather
Bottles [e] made pyramidal (the Faſhion there)
and fill'd 'em by the help of Sea-onion Leaves
folded pipe-wife. We empty'd a Well dug long
fince on the edge of the Sea, but the Water of it
was faltiſh. At length the Weather turn'd fair on
the 13th: we laid hold of the Opportunity to go
to Patino, which is the famous Ifland of Paimos,
whence we return'd to Carlovaffi the 18th of Fe-
bruary, and landed the fame Day a Mile on
this fide Carlovaffi, to go fee a Greek Chapel,
call'd [f] Our Lady of the River.
This Chapel
:
[d] Labech.
Vol. II.
[] Mataras.
I
[7] Παναγια το ποταμό.
is
114 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
is at the Foot of a Mountain, but in a manner a-
bandon'd: there are four fine Columns of afh-
colour'd Marble, the Chapiters whereof have
double Rows of Acanthus Leaves: they are the
Reliques of fome old Temple, at leaſt they ſhould
be fo, from what old Marble Monuments we faw
hard by, particularly an Architrave of red and
white Jafper. May it not be the Temple of Mer-
cury, [g] held in particular Reverence by the Sa-
mians, who likewife ftruck a Medal [b] to him
repreſenting on one fide the Genius of their City,
and on the other that God of Thieves, with a
Purfe in his Right-hand, and a Caduceus in
his Left?
Tho' it rain'd without ceafing, the 19th and
20th of February, that did not hinder our going
from Carlovaffi to Vourlotes, which is a Village ten
Miles diftant from thence, and but two Miles
from the Sea, at the Foot of the coldeſt Moun-
tains of the Ifland. On the North Coaft we met
with fome very fine Plants. Vourlotes is fo call'd
from the Inles of Vourla, right againſt the antient
Clazomene, fituate at the Entrance of the Bay of
Smyrna: for Samos having been fack'd and depo-
pulated after the Peace of Conftantinople, was
given by the Emperor Selim, Anno 1550, to the
Captain-bafhaw Ochiali, [i] who caus'd to be tranf
ported a variety of Greeks, to improve the Lands:
thofe of Vourla fettled at Vourlotes, fome Albanois
built Albaniticori, and thoſe of Metelin were eſta-
blifh'd at Metelinous.
The Rain ftill continuing the 21st of Febru-
ary, we could ſcarce get to the Convent of [k]
Our Lady of the Thunder, which is but a Mile
[gl Epuns Xaeidots, Mercurius munificus. Plutarch. de
Quast. Grac.
[3] ΔΗΜΟΣ CAMΕΙΩΝ ΕΠΙ ΛΥΣΑΝ-
APOT IEPE. Sub Lyfandro facerdote. [i] Relat. of the
Voyages of M. de Breves. [4] Παναγία Βρόνια.
from
Deſcription of the Island of Samos. 115
from Vourlotes. Befides the Rain, which held
Day and Night all the reſt of the Month, the
South Winds [1] did a world of damage. 'Tis
true, they did not carry away the tops of Houfes,
becauſe they are terrafs'd; but they overturn'd the
Houſes themſelves, eſpecially in the Country,
where they had more fcope to exerciſe their fury.
The Sea was as it were on fire, the Thunder was
really terrible: we were fomewhat cheary, when
they told us it never rain'd in the Levant but in
Winter, nor thunder'd but at this time of the
Year.
For thefe Reaſons we kept within Doors in the
Convent, from whence we could hardly ftir 200
Paces: it being a ftout folid Building, we were
fafe enough. This Convent has a good Revenue,
but affords but very indifferent Accommodation.
Among other Rarities, they fhew'd us the Dean
of Mankind, if I may ſo ſay; an honeſt Caloyer
120 Years old, who ftill amufes himſelf with cut-
ting of Wood, and looking after the Mill. We
were inform'd he never in the whole Courſe of his
Life drank any thing but mere Wine and Brandy.
Left fuch an Inftance be urg'd to countenance
thoſe who drink Wine to excefs, I fhall fubjoin
another quite contrary to it: M. Luppazuolo, a
Greek by Nation, and Conful of Venice at Smyrna,
never drank any thing but Water, and yet lived
to be 118 Years of Age. So that no concluſive
Argument can be drawn from the Uſe of Drinks:
for M. Luppazuolo could not endure even Coffee or
Sherbet: but what redounds more to the honour
of his Memory, is, his having one Daughter 18
Years old, and another 85, without reckoning a
Son, who dy'd near 100 Years old.
We were prevented by the bluftering of the
Weather from narrowly infpecting ſome fine forts
[7] Siroc.
I 2
of
116 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
of Renunculus with a blue Flower. There was but
little Snow on the Mountains the 23d of February,
but a great deal of Hail big as Peas. Thefe
Mountains are cover'd with two forts of Pine-
trees; [m] but there are no Fir-trees, whatever
the Inhabitants fay, who call by that Name a
beautiful fort of Pine, which is at Paris in the
Parterre of the Royal Garden, with Leaves a-
bout five Inches long, and one Line broad, ftiff,
flat on one fide, round on the other: its Fruit is
four Inches long, an Inch and a half thick, very
picked, conſiſting of very large and hard Scales.
Theſe Pines rife to a great height, and are fit to
make Ship Mafts; they yield abundance of Tur-
pentine, but it runs in wafte, tho' 'tis very clear
and well-looking. [2] The other Pines on theſe
Mountains are the common fort growing in all hot
Countries.
From thefe Mountains we crofs'd the Iſland for
Cora, where we had hopes given us of finding fome
antient Inſcriptions; yet we met with nothing but
a few Epitaphs fince the Chriftian Era, and
thofe in private Houfes. The Ladies of Cora
ſeeing us fo intent on Plants, brought us one, and
caus'd us to be ask'd if we knew its Virtues: it
was very like that call'd [o] Tartonraire at Marfeilles.
After thanking them for their Nofegay, we
caus'd 'em to be told they were in too good a ftate
of Health to need the ufe of it, and that even in
France it was never preſcribed but to Perſons of
the ſtrongeſt Conſtitution: they burft into a Fit
of Laughter, and pointed to their Head-drefs,
which our Interpreter told us was to let us know
they made uſe of this Plant to dye their Veils
yellow. A Moment after, he fhew'd us two or
[m] Exdry.
[n] Pinus fylveftris, maritima, conis firmi-
ter ramis adhærentibus. J. B. [o] Thymelæa feu Tartons
vaire, Lini foliis argenteis. Corol. Inft. Rei Herb. 41.
three
Defcription of the Ifland of Samos. 117
:
three of theſe Ladies fweeping their Terrace, and
pointing at their Brooms, to fignify that it was
call'd [p] Broom-berb. When they uſe it to dye
with, they caft the tops of the Herb into boiling
Water; after fome Bubblings, they add a little
[9] Alom-powder, then put in the Linen, Cloth,
or Skins, and let 'em foak all Night off the Fire.
It dyes a very good Yellow, but I'm of opinion a
more perfect Colour might be made of it by
more skilful Hands. This Plant differs not from
that on the Coafts of Provence, only its Leaves
are narrower and longer. M. Wheeler [r] has ob-
ferv'd the difference.
The 24th of February, maugre the bad Wea-
ther, we got to Vati, defigning to embark for
Scalanova, and fo pafs to Smyrna; but were de-
tain'd by the continual Rains and contrary Winds
at Vati till the middle of March. It was a little
Deluge, nothing but Torrents running down
from the Mountains, which at another time are
calcin' in a manner; whence its Name of Samos
[s], i. e. a dry fandy Soil.
In the interim we went to ſee a handfom Village
call'd Metelinous, two Miles off Cora. Metelinous
took its Name from the Ifle of Metelin, being
built, or rather rebuilt, by a Colony of Inhabi-
tants of this Ifland, tranfported thither after Sul-
tan Selim had given Samos to the Captain-bafhaw
Ochiali [t]. Ever fince that Admiral's death,
the Revenue of Samos is appropriated to a Mofque
he caus❜d to be built at Topana, one of the Sub-
urbs of Conftantinople: this Mofque ftill bears the
name of its Founder, and the Suburb that of the
[1] Zagwμátaxi, Broom-herb. Edgwμa, a Broom. [2]
Στίψη. [] Voyage into Dalmatia and Greece, tom. 1.
[s] Eduos quafi "Apuos, arena. Et Samia genitrix quæ de-
lectatur arena. Juv. Sat. 16, verf, 6: [] Relation of M.
de Breves's Voyage.
I 3
Artillery
118 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
Artillery which is caft there; for Top in Turkiſh
fignifies a Cannon, and Hana a Houfe: thus To-
pana is an Arfenal or Foundery for Cannon.
The Spring of Metilonous is the beſt in the
Ifland, and muſt be one of thofe two mention'd
by Pliny [v]. I make no doubt it was conducted
to the Town of Samos, cross the Mountain men-
tion'd by Herodotus: this Author calls it the great
Spring, and the Mountain is between Metelinous
and the Ruins of Samos. The Difpofition of the
Places proved perfectly favourable, the Moment
they had conquer'd the difficulty of boring it;
but in all probability they were not exact enough
in levelling the Ground, for they were obliged to
dig a Canal of twenty Cubits deep, for carrying
the Spring to the place defign'd. There muſt
have been fome Miftake in this Paffage of Herodo-
tus. Jofeph Georgirene, Biſhop of Samos, was no
doubt a very diligent Inquirer into all theſe things;
but the Defcription he has given of Samos, Nicaria,
and Patmos is fo fcarce, tho' tranflated out of
vulgar Greek into English, that I have not been a-
ble to procure it.
At the corner of the Church of Metelinous, be-
fore this Spring, is fet in breaft-high an antient
Bas-relief of Marble, perfectly fine, which a Papas
found fome Years ago, digging up a Field: it is
two Feet four Inches long, fifteen or fixteen
Inches high, three Inches thick, but lying low
to the Ground, the Heads of it are extremely bat-
ter'd. The Bas-relief contains feven Figures,
and reprefents the Ceremony of imploring the
Succour of Efculapius in the cafe of fome fick Man
of Quality he is fitting up in his Bed, his
Head and Breaſt rais'd, holding a Pitcher by both
Handles: the God of Phyfick is feen on his
right Hand, towards the Bed's Feet, in the fhape
[v] Gigartho & Leucothea. Nat. Hift. lib. 3.
of
Deſcription of the land of Samos. 119
of a Serpent: the Table, which is right againſt
the Patient, and ſtanding on three Feet like
Goats-feet, is fpread with a Pine-apple, two
Flaggons, and two things like Pyramids placed
at each end. On the right fits a Woman in
an Elbow-chair, with a very high back to it.
The Drapery of this Figure is very good, and
the Sleeves fit pretty tight: her Face fronts you,
and fhe feems to be giving directions to a He-
flave cloſe by her, and who is habited in a loofe
Coat over a Veft. At the foot of the Bed is an-
other Woman fitting on a low Stool, cover'd to
the Ground with Cloth: fhe is habited like her
in the Elbow-chair, but you only fee her fideways:
this perhaps is the fick Man's Wife, for there
ftands before her a young Child naked, with a
Dog fawning about him. A young She-flave is
alfo placed behind this Woman, and is drefs'd in
a fhort Coat without Sleeves, under which falls a
fort of Under-petticoat full of Plaits: fhe refts her
left Hand on her Breaft, and in her right, which
is erect, fhe holds a Heart with the point upwards.
Farther off, at the extremity of the Bas-relief, is
feen another He-ſlave ſtark naked, who with one
Hand is taking Drugs out of a Mortar, to put
'em in a Cup which he has in the other Hand,
and to whom Efculapius feems to be giving order
to pour them into the Veffel held by the Patient.
Along the top of the Bas-relief runs a kind of
Border, broken, and divided into four long ſquare
Pannels in the firft is reprefented a very fine
Head of a Horfe; the fecond contains two Flames;
the third is adorn'd with a Helmet and Cuiraſs;
the fourth is broken, and leaves nothing to be feen
but the Rim of a Buckler. Doubtlefs thefe At-
tributes were intended to fet forth the Inclinations
and Employments of the Patient.
I 4
While
120 AVOYAGE into the Levant.
While we were confidering the Beauty of this
Bas-relief, they prefented us with fome Medals;
the beſt whereof was that of the famed Pythagoras,
who will be for ever an Honour to this Ifland, on
account of the Rank he held among the antient
Philofophers: but I'll be fworn there are none of
his Diſciples now left in Samos; for the Samians
are no more fond of fafting, than they're Lovers
of Silence. The Medal we are fpeaking of, has
the Head of Trajan [u]: Pythagoras is on the Re-
verfe, fitting before a Column, which bears a
Globe, on which that Philofopher feems to be
pointing to fomething with his right Hand. The
fame Type is in Fulvius Urfinus, but Pythagoras
refts his left Hand on the Globe. The like
Medals are alfo feen with the Heads of Caracalla
and Etrufcilla, the faireft I ever faw in the King's
Cabinet, ftruck with a Commodus [x] on it, and
on the Reverſe Pythagoras pointing with a Rod to
a Star on a Celestial Globe: this muſt be the Star
of Venus, which he was the firft Diſcoverer of,
as we are told by Pliny [y].
On the left Hand of the Spring of Metilonous
is an Inſcription, whofe Characters have the Ap-
pearance of being well done, but they are not
now legible perhaps the Name of the Spring
may be pick'd out by fome abler Heads; per-
haps too this Infcription records the Names of
thofe, who undertook to convey this beautiful
Spring to Samos. This Spring, at prefent, falls
into a little Brook, that empties itſelf in the
Port of Tigani.
At length, not knowing how to diſpoſe of
our time, we made an Enquiry among fome of
the moft eminent Men of the Ifland concerning
[u] TPAIANOC AEKIOC. Legend. ПAгOPÍČ
CAMION. [*] ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΩΡ ΚΑΙΣΑΡ ΜΑΡΚΟΣ
ΑΥΡΗΛΙΟΣ ΚΟΜΜΟΔΟΣ ΣΕΒΑΣΤΟΣ.
[] Hift.
Nat. lib. 2. cap. 8.
a pre-
Deſcription of the Island of Samos. 121
1
a pretended Light, which the Mariners fancy
they fee in the Cape of Samos when they're out
at Sea, and which is inviſible on fhore. Thefe
Doctors affured us, it appear'd in fo fteep a Place,
that no Perfon could be fufpected to inhabit there,
and that this Fire muft needs be miraculous: for
my part, I am perfuaded of the contrary; and
fuppofing that any fuch Fire was ever perceiv'd,
I doubt not but it was kindled either by the Ca-
loyers or Shepherds, partly to divert themſelves,
and partly to preferve the Memory of a thing
the Papas of the Ifland call [z] a great Miracle.
We catch'd at a Glance of the Sun, to make
our Geographical Remarks.
Scalanova is between the North-eaft and eaft.
Cape Coraca between the North and North-
north-weft.
Cape Blanc between the North-weft and the
North-north-weft.
Scio North-weft.
Patmos between the South and South-fouth-weft.
Siagi North.
Ephesus North-eaſt.
The higheſt Top of Mycale or Samſon between
the Eaft and Eaft-fouth-eaft.
The Ifle of Arco between the South-fouth-weft
and the South-weft.
Gatonifi South.
Cos or Stanchio between the South and the
South-fouth-eaft.
Palatia or Miletus South-fouth-eaft.
This, my Lord, is all I have to ſay touching
the Iſland of Samos. We must return to Port
Seitan, to give an account of our Voyage to Pat-
THOS. Notwithſtanding our Eagerness to go to
Nicaria, we were fain to tarry in this Port for
want of a fair Wind; fo we refolv'd to range the
[z] Miya daùµa.
Coaft
t
122 AVOYAGE into the Levant.
Coaft and Cape of Samos in the mean time [a]:
this Cape is ten Miles from Seitan. Our Defign
was to enter the greater Boghas, which is between
this Iſland and that call'd the Great Fourni.
PATMOS.
Patino.
They reckon forty Miles from the
Cape of Samos to the Ifle of Patmos,
now call'd Patino. We caft anchor in
Port de la Scala, which is one of the fineſt Ports
throughout the Archipelago, and faces the North-
weft and the Eaft. That of Gricou is likewife
an admirable one: it is in the South-eaft, and has
two Openings form'd by a Rock juft at the En-
trance one of thefe Openings is turn'd to the
South-eaft, and the other to the North-weſt.
Sapfila is another good Port, between that of
Scala and Gricou, but expos'd to the North: the
Port of Diacorti, which is in the South-eaft of the
Iſland, and into which the South and Labech
blow ſo as to hinder the coming out, is not fit
for Barks, any more than that of Merica, which
is turn'd to the Miftral, and which is on the
Weft of that of la Scala.
Patmos is confiderable for its Ports, but its In-
habitants are not much the better for 'em. The
Corfairs have obliged 'em to quit the Town
which was in the Port of la Scala, and to retire
two Miles and a half up the Hill about St.
John's Convent.
This Convent is as a Citadel, confifting of fe-
veral irregular Towers: it is a very fubftantial
Building, on a very fteep Rock. We were told,
that the Emperor Alexis Comnenes was the Foun-
der of this Monaftery. Its Chapel is fmall, and
painted after the Greek manner, than which no⇒
thing can be more paltry: the Sexton made us
pay a Crown for fhewing us the Body of St.
[a] 1702.
}
Chriftodulus,
Vol. I.
View of the City of
TENEDOS
Pag.300.
ب و شتم بروید با نوشته
00
Vol. I.
Port Merica
ISLE of PATHMOS
Port la Scala
Port
Sapfita
Port
Gricou
Port
Diacorti
Scale of two miles Greek.
Pag328.
74
Vol.I.
Port of PATHMOS,
C
A
*
0 0
TUAJ
ادر
84
A
Pag,328.
Defcription of the Island of Patmos. 123
Chriftodulus [b], that is, Servant of Christ. They
believ'd that it was at this Saint's Perfuafion the
Emperor caus'd the Houfe to be built. This
good Father for t'other Crown would fain have
drawn out the Shrine, to let us fee they had the
whole Body; but we had enough of his Head
and Face. This Convent has an Income of
6000 Crowns: the Church-plate is very hand-
fom; but their greateſt Rarity of all is two large
Bells over the Gate-way, for in the Levant it is a
very extraordinary thing to meet with a large
Bell. But the Turks having a Veneration for St.
John, they allow the Caloyers of Patmos the
Liberty of this Advantage. There are above a
hundred Caloyers in this Monaftery, but gene-
rally not above fixty are refident; the reft are
looking after their Farms in the neighbouring
Inlands.
The Ifle of Patmos is one of the baſeft Rocks
in all the Archipelago: it is bleak, uncover'd,
without Wood, and very barren: it is indeed re-
plenifh'd with Hills and Mountains, the higheſt
whereof is call'd St. Elijah. [c] John Cameniates,
who was one of the Slaves whom the Saracens
made at the taking of Theffalonica, his native
Place, and conducted to Candia, affirms, that theſe
unfortunate Wretches tarry'd fix Days at Patmos,
and had not Water to drink. They might have
fared well, had they been fuffer'd to hunt; for
the Iſland abounds with Partridges, Rabbits,
Quails, Turtles, Pidgeons, Snipes it does not
produce much Wheat or Barley: they have their
Wine from Santorin, for the Growth of Patmos
fcarce amounts to 1000 Barrels. They practiſe
Caprification on the Fig-trees, but there are not
[c] Ann. 904. Avudex yas
ὄντος το τόπο ἐλπίζετο τοῖ αιχμαλώτοις ἡ δίψα. Cameniat,
de Excid. Theffal. cap. 68,
[6] Αγιος Χριςόδελος.
many
124 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
many
of 'em: fo that the whole Buſineſs of the
Iſland confifts in the Induſtry of the Inhabitants,
who with a Dozen of Caicks, or other fmali
Boats, go and fetch Corn on the Terra-firma, and
even as far as the Coafts of the Black Sea, for
Cargoes to the French Ships.
The Iſland of Patmos is but eighteen Miles in
Compaſs it may be reckon'd twice as much,
including all the in and out Windings from Cape
to Cape; fo that Pliny may be forgiven for
making it thirty Miles in Circumference [d]. Pat-
mos is fixty Miles diftant from the Ifles of Cos,
Stampalia, and Mycone; it is but eighteen Miles
from Lero, and forty-five from Nicaria.
There are hardly 300 Men in Patmos, and to
one Man there are at leaſt twenty Women: they
are naturally pretty, but disfigure themſelves fo
with Paint, they are really frightful; yet that is
far from their Intention, for ever fince a certain
Merchant of Marseilles marry'd one of 'em for
her Beauty, they fancy there's not a Stranger
comes thither but to make the like Purchaſe.
They look'd upon us as very odd Fellows, and
feem'd to be mightily furpriz'd when they were
told we only came to fearch for Plants; for they
imagin'd, on our Arrival, we would carry into
France at leaſt a dozen Wives. It is ftrange,
that in fo poor a Country the Houſes are better
built than in the Iſlands where there's more Trade.
The Chapels are arch'd over, and very neatly co-
ver'd: they reckon above 250 of them in the
Ifland, yet there were but nine or ten Papas when
we were there, the Plague having ſwept away
the others, as we were told. Tho' the Biſhop of
Samos calls himfelf Biſhop of Patmos, yet they
[d] Patmos circuitu triginta mille paffuum, Plin. Hift. Nat.
lib. 4. cap. 12.
fetch
1
:
13. I.
Women of
PATHMOS
Pag.330.
Defcription of the Island of Patmos. 125
fetch what Biſhop they think fit, when they are
minded to confecrate any Papas.
The Civil Affairs are managed by two Admi-
niftrators, chofen every year; thefe levy the Ca-
pitation, which amounts to 800 Crowns, and the
Land-tax, which is 200, without including the
Prefents that muſt be made to the Captain-
bafhaw and his Officers, when they come to re-
ceive the Grand Signior's Dues. There are nei-
ther Turks nor Latins in this Ifland: the Conful
of France's Office is perform'd by a Greek, tho'
he has no Patent or Power for fo doing. He
told us, that purely to do the Nation Service,
his Family had taken upon them that Office for
three Generations from Father to Son, by virtue
of an old Parchment Writing in fome of our
Kings Reign, they know not which: we judg'd
it might be Henry IV. By fome Accident or
other, this Parchment was not to be found when
we defired to ſee it. This fame Conful is a good
fort of Man: all Strangers addrefs themfelves to
him, and in cafe of need, he would take upon him
to be Conful of all Nations that come thither: he
lofes nothing by it; for if we were well received
in his Houfe, it coft us more than it would have
done any where elfe. They don't fpeak French
at his Houſe, but ſtammer a fort of Provenfal;
and as the Inhabitants of the Ifland are all of the
Greek Rite, we had pafs'd our time but very ill
with them, had not the Ladies reforted hither to
us, under pretence of picking and cleanfing the
Plants we brought from out of the Country.
There are not any Reliques of note in this Ifland,
only three or four Stumps of Marble Columns in
the Port of la Scala: they feem to be of a good
Defign, and are certainly the antienteft in the
Archipelago, where they have long fince forborn
amufing themſelves with fuch things. It is not
unlikely
126 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
unlikely theſe are the Reliques of fome Temple
of the chief Town, which bore the Name of the
Iſland, according to Galen's Remark. In the
Porch of St. John's Church there's an Infcrip-
tion, but Time has render'd it illegible, as it has
another in the Nave.
The Houſe call'd the [e] Apocalypfe, is a poor
Hermitage, depending on the great Convent of
St. John. The Superior has given it for Life, for
200 Crowns, to an antient Biſhop of Samos, who
received us very civilly: this is thought to be the
Place where St. John wrote the Revelations: per-
haps fo, for that holy Evangelift fays it was in
the Iſland of Patmos, whither he was baniſh'd in
the Perfecution of Domitian, [f] which began
Anno 95, after Chrift. [g] The fame Year St.
John was dipt into a Cauldron of boiling Oil at
Rome, and then banifh'd to Patmos. [b] The
next Year Domitian was kill'd on the 18th of
September, a Year after the Banifhment of St.
John: but the Senate having annull'd what he
had done, Nerva recall'd all thofe that were
baniſh'd; and thus that Evangelift return'd to
Ephefus in February or March, Anno 97, and his
Exile lafted but eighteen Months. The Author
of the Chronicon Pafchale makes St. John continue
in Patmos fifteen Years, and St. Irenæus [i] fixes
it at five Years. [k] St. Victorinus, Biſhop of
Pettau, and Primatius, a Biſhop in Africa, affirm
St. John to have been ſent to Patmos, to work in
certain Mines there, now unknown.
The Hermitage of the Apocalypfe is on the fide
of a Mountain fituated between the Convent and
the Port de la Scala. The way to it is very nar-
[2] ΑΠΟΚΑΛΥΨΙΣ.
[g] Zonara Ann. lib. 11.
[f] Glyce Ann. par 3.
[h] Cedren. Compend. Hift.
[k] Com-
[] Biblioth. Patr. tom. 1. p. 579, & 1357.
ment. in Apocalyp.
row,
Tol.1.
Hermitage call'd y Apocalypse.
***
Tag 331.
St John's Grotto
+ + The Chinks of if Rock thro' which ý holy Ghost is faid to have dictated to St John.
77
Chappel of the bermitage
Defcription of the Island of Patmos. 127
*
row, cut half way in the Rock, and leads to the
Chapel: this Chapel is not above eight or nine
Paces long, and five broad: the Arch-work, tho'
of the Gothick, is pretty enough: on the right is
St. John's Grotto, the Entrance whereof is about
feven Foot high, with a fquare Pillar in the mid-
dle. Over-head they fhew Strangers a Tiffure or
Chink in the quick Rock, through which, they
tell ye, the Holy Ghon dictated to St. John,
when he wrote the Apocalyps: the Grotto is low,
and has nothing remarkable. The Superior pre-
fenting us with fome pieces oi this Rock, affured
us they had the Virtue to exel evil Spirits, and
cure divers and fundry Diſeaſes in return, I gave
him fome Pilule Febrifuge, whic he had no little
occafion for, to expel an Ague that had hung
upon him fome Months.
We went once more to the grad Convent of
St. John, to make a Geographical Sation.
Lero is between the South-eaft and Eaft-fouth-
eaſt.
Lipfo Eaft.
Calimno South-eaft.
Nicaria North-weft.
Arco between the North-eaft and Eft-north-
çaſt.
We departed from Patmos the 15th of Febru-
ary in moft ferene Weather, which at this tme of
the Year is much to be fufpected, being genrally
a Prognoſtick of a Storm. Our Defign was topafs
over to Nicaria: the South-eaft [] was fo bluter-
ing, we were obliged to put in at St. Minas [*],
one of the Ifles of Fourni, where we happily r-
rived about Evening. Next Day the Wind i
[Siroc.
[m]"Ayios Miras, a Greek Martyr, vho
Feftival they celebrate on Decemb. 10.
creafing,
128 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
creafing, we went a fimpling through a Storm of
Rain, Hail, Thunder, and Lightning; and in the
Evening return'd, laden with curious Plants: but
as there are no Caverns in this Ifland, or at leaſt
none that we could find, our Seamen, to fecure us
from the Weather, had bufy'd themſelves all the
Day in taking to pieces an old French Bark that
had been lately caft or the fhore by a Tempeft.
With the Remains of his Veffel we erected a forry
Hut, which let in the Rain on all fides; and what
was ſtill worſe, a adden Guft of Wind over-fet
our Edifice, whe we thought ourſelves moft
fecure. We were forced once more to ſet it up
with huge Stonesplaced on it, to prevent the like
Difafter we ftet the Door-way with the Sail of
our Caick, bu were under continual apprehen-
fion of having our Roof of Planks bore away by
a Hurricane, nd our Brains beat out by the Stones.
i
The third Day, which was February 17, having
nothing to dt but Biſcuit, nor to drink but Rain-
water, whch pour'd down from the Rocks
full of Mid, we made an Effay to get aboard,
and had like to have been fwallow'd up by the
Sea the Billows whereof taking our Caick in
flank, very near turn'd it Keel upward more than
once, notwithſtanding our Sail, which was of little
ufe to us againſt the Fury of the Wind. You
may be fure we were not very eaſy in a Boat, but
fifteer Foot long, with three ignorant Fellows to
mange it, and who were almoſt frighted out of
their Wits: one row'd, another fteer'd, the third
plyd the Sail, while we empty'd out the Water
wih our Hats.
Our Fear redoubled at the fight of fome Ci-
tons which came floating on the Water, in token
fa Shipwreck, which happen'd to be of a
harge Caick, with fome of whofe Crew we had
been drinking the Day before. They trusted
to
Defcription of the Islands of Fourni. 129
to the Goodneſs of their Veffel, being quite new;
but having no Compafs, any more than we had,
and not having a clear fight of the Cape of
Samos, they ſplit on the Rocks. We then held
a Council, and after mature Deliberation, in-
ftead of going to Nicaria, we thought our beſt
way would be to double the Cape of Samos. As
good luck would have it, we gain'd the North of
the Iſland, where we found the Sea as fmooth as
Oil, according to the Seamens Phrafe in a Calm.
We caft anchor at Carlovaff, and fent for fome
Papas to come and fay Mafs in way of Thankf
giving.
The Iſle of St. Minas is in the grand Boghas
between Samos and Nicaria, below the grand
Fourni: all the Ifles to the Leeward are call'd
Fourni, becauſe the Greeks, as we faid before,
fancy their Ports, which are better than ordi-
nary, to be ſhaped like an Oven. Thefe Iſlands
are call'd by the Geographers Crufia, Tragia,
Dipfo, Ponelli; but the Greeks know nothing of
theſe Names: at leaſt our Sailors, tho' Natives of
the Place, never heard of any fuch. True it is,
there's an Iſland call'd Lipfo eight Miles from
Patmos, and confequently a good diſtance from
the Iſlands of Fourni. Thofe neareſt the grand
Boghas, are the grand Fourni, St. Minas, or the
little Fourni, Fimena: the others are Alachopetra,
Prafonifi, Coucounes, Atropofages, Agnidro, Stron-
gylo, Daxalo, and many more which have no
Name, making in all about eighteen or twenty,
but not any one of 'em inhabited.
•
That of St. Minas is not above five or fix Miles
in compaſs it is in form like an Afs's Back, and
confiſts, as one may fay, of two parts; that facing
Patmos is of ordinary Stone, cover'd over with
Mould and Underwood; the other, which feems
to be glued to it, is of the moſt uncommon Mar-
Vol. II.
K
ble
130 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
ble I ever faw: and 'tis in the Chinks of this
Marble where the beft Plants of the Ifland grow;
among others, the Liferon [n] (Bind-weed) a
Shrub with Leaves filver'd over, like thoſe of the
Olive.
Moft of the other Iſlands are long, narrow,
and travers'd through with a Ridge of Mountains:
Candia, Samos, Nicaria, Patmos, Macronifi, are
of this form. It feems as if the lower Country,
being of a moveable Foundation, had been gra-
dually carry'd away by the Sea, and nothing left
but the Ruins of the Mountains which refifted the
Force of the Waves.
ΣΚΥΡΟΣ.
I ſhould here conclude my Account
SCYRUS. of the Archipelago, but that I muft in-
treat a few more Moments of your Lordship's
Attention in favour of Thefeus and Achilles, fo far
as concerns the Inland of Skyros; where the for-
mer was bury'd, and the latter made love: tho'
it is very remote from Samos, and we ſaw it not
till our Return from Smyrna to Marſeilles, yet I'm
apt to think it would be better to ſpeak of it here,
than to ſeparate it from the other Ilands of the
Archipelago. The [o] Pelafgians and the Carians
were the firft Inhabitants of Skyros; but we find
it not in Hiftory, before the Reign of Lycomedes,
who ruled there when [p] Thefeus King of Athens
retired thither to enjoy the Poffeffions of his Fa-
ther. Thefeus not only demanded the Reftitution
of his Patrimony, but fued for Aid of the King
againſt the Athenians: but Lycomedes, either through
apprehenfion of that great Man's fuperior Genius,
or becauſe he would not fall out with Mneftheus,
who had forced him from Athens, led Thefeus to
[2] Convolvulus argenteus umbellatus erectus. Inft. Rei.
Herb. Dorycniurn. Plateau Cluj. App. 254. [o] Steph.
[p] Plutarch. in Thef.
the
SKYROS
Ife of
Vol.I.
2
Pag.334
F
ヂ
​ху
eto
که کور کریر کو مرمر مرمر
75
Defcription of the Island of Skyros. 13í
the top of a Rock, under pretext of fhewing him
his Father's Lands; but Hiftory records, he
caus'd him to be caft head-long from the Rock.
Some fay, Thefeus fell off accidentally, as he was
taking the Air after Supper: be it as it will, his
Children, whom he had fent into the Inland Eubea,
went to the War of Troy, and reign'd at Athens
after the death of Mneftheus.
The Iſle of Skyros became famous, fays Strabo
[r], by the Alliance which Achilles ftruck up there
with Lycomedes, by Marriage with Deidama his
Daughter, by whom he had Neoptolemus, call'd
Pyrrhus [s] on account of his yellow Hair. He
was bred in the Ifland, from whence he drew the
beſt Soldiers that he carry'd to the War of Troy,
to revenge his Father's Death. The People of
this Ifland were very warlike: [t] Pallas was the
Protectreſs of the Country; her Temple ſtood on
the edge of the Sea, in the Town that bore the
fame Name with the Ifland [u]. Of that Tem-
ple there ftill remain fome bits of Columns, and
Cornifhes of white Marble cloſe by a forfaken
Chapel, on the left hand going into Port St.
George: we could find no Inicription, but by the
old Foundations and the Beauty of the Port, we
may be pretty fure the Town ftood there. If
they be not the Reliques of the Temple of Pallas,
they are at leaft thofe of that of Neptune, who
was worship'd here. Goltzius has given the Type
of a Medal [x], with Neptune holding his Trident
on one fide, and on the other the Prow of a Ship.
After the War of Troy, the Athenians perform'd
great Honours to the Memory of Thefeus [y], and
[r] Rer. Geog. Servius in Æneid. 3. [] Пuppòs,
[] Palladi littoreæ celebrabat Skyros honorum
Forte diem. Stat. Achilleid. lib. 1. [κ] Σκύρος νήσος κα
wóars. Ptol. lib. 3. cap. 13. [+] ΣΚΥΡΙΩΝ. [] Plu-
recogniz'd
rutus.
tarch. in Thef.
K 2
132 AVOYAGE into the Levant.
recogniz'd him for a Hero; nay, they were com-
manded by the Oracle to gather up his Bones,
and preſerve them with reverence. Marcian of
Heraclea affirms, that the People of Chalcis, the
Capital of Eubea, fettled themſelves at Skyros,
being allured, 'tis like, by the Convenience of its
Port. Going through this Ifland, I bought a
filver Medal, which was fome Years ago dug up
among the Ruins of the Town as they were at
plough it is ftruck in the Name of the Chalci-
dians, [y] who, tho' Inhabitants of Skyros, yet re-
tain'd the Name of their own Country, to diſtin-
guiſh themſelves from the Pelafgians, the Dolopes,
and others, who were come and fettled at Skyros.
This Medal is ftamp'd with a beautiful Head, but
whoſe I know not, the Name being quite worn
away; on the Reverſe is a Lyre. This Piece
bearing the Name of the Chalcidians, one would
not believe it to have been ſtruck at Skyros, had
it not been dug up there.
Now I'm ſpeaking of the Dolopes, [z] Plutarch
takes notice of 'em as forry Husbandmen, but e-
minent Pirates, whofe common practice it was to
rifle and impriſon fuch as came to traffick with
'em. Some of theſe Villains having been fentenced
to reſtore their ill-gotten Goods to the Merchants
of Theffaly, to avoid doing it, [a] they fignify'd
to Cimon, Son of Miltiades, that they would fur-
render to him the City of Skyros, if he would
but come before it with his Fleet: by which means
he became Maſter of the Place. Diodorus Siculus
[b] adds, that in this Expedition the Iſland was
caft lots for, and that the Pelafgians heretofore
poffefs'd it conjointly with the Dolopes.
Cimon ufed his utmoft Endeavours to find out
where they had bury'd the Bones of Thefeus: at
[1] ΧΑΛΧΙΔΕΩΝ. [z] Εργάται κακοὶ γῆς. Plutarch.
in Cimon. [a] Thucyd. lib. 1. [6] Biblioth. Hift. lib. 1.
length
Defcription of the land of Skyros. 133
length an Eagle was feen fcratching the Earth
with his Beak and Talons on a fmall Hillock;
which moved 'em to fearch the fame place, where
they found the Coffin of a tall proper Man, with
his Sword and Pike lying by him: this was e-
nough. Plutarch (in his Life of Thefeus) does not
fay whether they were the Arms of an Athenian,
a Carian, a Pelafgian, or a Dolopian. They made
no farther fearch, but fent away this Coffin to
Athens 400 Years after that Hero's death. The
Remains of fo great a Man were received with
great Demonſtrations of Joy; they even offer'd
Sacrifices on that occafion: the Coffin or Bier
was placed in the heart of the City, and ferv'd for
an Afylum to Offenders.
Skyros was wrefted out of the Hands of the
Athenians during their Bickerings with their
Neighbours; but it was reftored to 'em by that
famous Peace, which Artaxerxes King of Perfia
gave to Greece, on the Sollicitation of the Lacede-
monians, who deputed Antalcidas to him to obtain
it. After the death of Alexander the Great, De-
metrius, the firſt of the Name, call'd the Town
Taker [c], refolving to refcue the Towns of Greece,
took that of Skyros, and turn'd out the Garriſon.
'Twere needleſs to mention that this Iſland was
reduced to the Obedience of the Roman Empire,
and then to that of the Greeks. [d] Andrew and
Jerom Gizi reduced Skyros, after the taking of
Conftantinople by the French and Venetians: [e] the
Dukes of Naxia at length poffefs'd themſelves of
it. William Carcerio made a Conqueft of it, and
left it to his Defcendents: his Grandfon Nicholas
Carcerio, the ninth Duke of the Archipelago,
caus'd the Caftle to be fortify'd with the utmoſt
[c]Пognтús. Diod. Sic. Biblioth. Hift. lib. 20. p. 828.
[d] Du Cange Hift. of the Emp. of Conft. [e] Hift. of the
Dukes of the Archipelago.
K 3
care,
134 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
care, on advice that the Turks had an Intention tổ
feize it and indeed they did make ȧ Defcent,
but were fhamefully beat off. About the Town
are ftill to be feen the Ruins of thofe Fortifi-
cations, which the Mahometans, who are now.
Maſters of the Place, have let run to decay.
It is obvious why this Iſland was call'd Skyros
(i. e. rugged) by the Antients, the whole Country
being thick-fet with Mountains: nor is it furpriz-
ing, that in Strabo's time its Goats were more
valued than thoſe of any other Iſland; for thoſe
Creatures delight in Steepneffes, and will browze
on the ſharpeſt Point of the higheſt Rock. The
fame Author too praiſes the Metals and Marble
of this Country, but at prefent there are no
Mines that they know of in this Ifland; and
for their Goats, we faw no difference between
them and thofe we had met with elſewhere:
we eat in Skyros excellent Cheeſe, made of theſe
Goats Milk mix'd with fome Sheep's. This
Ifland, tho' every where briftling up with fharp-
rais'd Hills, is very agreeable, and well-manur-
ed for the few People it contains; there not being
above 300 Families in it, tho' it meaſures fixty
Miles in circumference.
The Inhabitants pay 5000 Crowns a year to
the Grand Signior, in lieu of all forts of Impofts.
They have enough Wheat and Barley for their
Subfiftence: the French themfelves come thither
fometimes for thefe forts of Grain. The Vines
make the Beauty of the Ifland: their Wine is ex-
cellent, and cheap enough; a Crown a Barrel:
great Quantities are tranfported to the Venetian
Army in the Morea. As for Wax, they ſcarce
gather a hundred Quintals. There's no want of
Wood, as in the other Iſlands: befides Copfes
of Holm-oak, Lentisk, Myrtle, &c. we were
told there were beautiful Pines. Skyros is the
only
Defcription of the Island of Skyros. 135
only Iſland I know of, that produces Eleagnus's:
they are in the Plain going from Port St. George
to the Village.
The 18th of April, 1702, the South-eaft Wind,
attended with a Storm of Hail and Rain, forced
us into that Port; which is a very good one, as
is likewife another call'd the Port of three
Mouths.
There's but one Village in all Skyros, and that
on a Rock running up like a Sugar-loaf, ten
Miles from the Port of St. George. The Mo-
naſtery, which bears that Saint's Name, makes
the fineſt Part of this Village, tho' it has not
above five or fix Caloyers, who carefully preferve
an Image of Silver, on a very thin Leaf, on
which there is a coarfe Repreſentation of St.
George's Miracles. This Leaf, which is about four
foot deep, and two broad, is nail'd on a Piece of
Wood, which has a Handle to it like a Crucifix,
and which they carry as they do a Banner. They
pretend this Image efcaped the Fury of the Icono-
claftes, and alfo performs great Miracles daily,
exercifing particular Severities on fuch as neglect
to fulfil the Vows made to St. George.
There
are not greater Impoftors in the World than the
Greeks: Hear what they would have made Father
Sauger believe concerning this Matter. [a]
"This Image, fays he, painted very bunglingly
..
on a Log of Wood, is placed over the great
"Altar of the Cathedral dedicated to St. George,
"and ferv'd by Schifmaticks. When the Church
66
is full of People, the Image is feen to move of
"itſelf; and notwithſtanding its Heaviness, will
"tranſport itſelf through the Air into the midft
"of the Affembly: among whom, if there.
"chances to be one that has fail'd to perform
his Vows, the Image fingles him out, fquats
[a] Hiftory of the Dukes of the Archipelago.
K 4
"itfelf
136
A VOYAGE into the Levant.
66
"itſelf on his Shoulders, where it ſticks cloſe,
"and plies him with furious Buffetings, till he
pays what he owes to the Church. The
"Cream of the Jeft is, the Image is not only
"endued with this Virtue within the narrow
"Limits of the Church, but generally through-
"out the whole Ifland, where it will go and un-
"kennel a Man in the moft fecret Lurking-place.
"It goes its rounds in an extraordinary Man-
<6 ner; a blind Monk carries it on his Shoulders;
"the Image all the while, by an occult Im-
preffion, directing him where he fhall go the
"Debtor feeing 'em coming, makes off, you
.. may be fure, as faft as he can; but all to no
purpoſe: let him dodge and play at Bo-peep
"as much as he pleafes, the Monk is fteddy in
"his Purſuit, afcends, defcends, paffes, repaffes,
"enters all Places; foon as ever he finds his
"Man, the Image leaps on his Neck to rights,
" and fo belabours him, that fome have told me
they thought the poor Wretch would be
• murder'd."
66
4
..
Without having recourfe to Magick, as does
Father Sauger, the beft way is flatly to deny the
Fact, as we did, when they would have paum'd
theſe Impertinences on us. A very honeft Gen-
tleman, in Company with us, had a mind to con-
vince himſelf of the thing, and promiſed St.
George ten Crown-pieces, with an Intention never
to pay him: in our return back we went to the
Church, to fee if the blind Image-porter with his
Burden would come and claim his Promiſe, or
knock him down for Non-performance; but,
Heaven be prais'd, both Image and Image-
bearer happen'd to be out of the Spleen that day.
Father Sauger was likewiſe miſinform'd as to
the Nature of the Image: it is not painted, but
only cary'd on a Plate of Silver, which the more
furpriz'd
Defcription of the Island of Skyros. 137
furpriz'd us, becaufe fuch fort of Sculptures are
an Abomination to the Greeks. The Chapel where
it is kept, is very finall, adorn'd with Gildings
after the Greek Mode: the Convent is very nafty,
but we drank admirable red Wine there. It is
certain we did not fmart for our Curioſity, and
the Monks feeing by our Countenances that we
were not over-burden'd with Credulity, only
laugh'd at our Queftions; but ftill ftuck to their
main Point, of not promiſing any thing to the
Image, unleſs a Man has a Will and the
Means to be as good as his Word. We affented
to this Propofition, and commended their Devo-
tion to St. George, abftracted from their Knavery.
The Inhabitants of this Iſland are all of the
Greek Communion: they have another Monaftery
call'd after the Name of St. Demetrius, but it is
a beggarly one: that of St. George belongs to the
Caloyers of St. Laura, who live at Monte Santo,
and who depute none of the fimpleft among the
Fraternity to keep up the People's Zeal for St.
George: they take particular Care to inftruct the
Monk that's blind, or pretends to be fo.
The Cadi is the only Turk on the Iſland: the
Adminiſtrators are obliged to ranſom him, if the
Corfairs ſhould chance to kidnap him. The Cadi
is very paffive, and acts even as the Adminiftra-
tors would have him. Thefe latter are three in
Number, and chofen once a year: they exerciſe
ftrict Juſtice, eſpecially on leud Women. When
any fuch are caught in the Fact, be they fair or
be they foul, they mount her on the Back of a
She-afs, and make her ride through the Town,
while every body has a Fling at her, fome with
Mud, fome with Cow-dung, others with rotten
Eggs, and the like.
The Biſhop of Skyros is very indigent, he lives
in a manner upon Charity, and is lodg'd in a
Dungeon
138 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
Dungeon rather than a Houſe. A Man may live
very cheap in this Ifland: you may have a good
fat Sheep for forty Pence, and Lambs for half
that Price: there's plenty of Wild-fowl of every
kind and fort, eſpecially Partridges. Their Wa-
ter is admirable, and every Rock affords a Spring:
the Brook that empties itſelf into Port St. George,
is very pretty. When the Ships take in a Provi-
fion of freſh Water, they fend their Boats to
fhore, and convey the Water into Barrels through
a Leather Pipe.
I am, &c.
LETTER
*
[139]
LETTER IV.
To Monfeigneur the Count de Pontchartrain,
Secretary of State, &c.
MY LORD,
WE
Defcription
of the Strait
the Darda-
of
nelles, of the
Cities of
Gallipol
E fet fail for Conftantinople the
15th of March, 1701, from
the Port of Petra in the South part of
the Iſland of Metelin. Having a fair
Wind, we in a few Hours got fight
of Tenedos, between which and Troas and Conftan-
we pafs'd, and in a few Hours more tinople.
enter'd that famous Canal, which ſeparates the
two faireft Quarters of the Earth, Europe and
Afia: 'tis call'd the Hellefpont, the Strait of Gal-
lipoli, the Canal of the Dardanelles, the Arm of
St. George, the Mouths of Conftantinople; the Turks
know it by the name of Boghas, or Strait of the
White Sea.
The Hellefpont, every one knows, fignifies the
Sea of Helle; for the Antients believed that a
Daughter of Athamas King of Thebes, whoſe
Name was Helle, was drown'd therein as fhe
was going to Colchis with her Brother Phryxus,
to carry the Golden Fleece [b]. According
to all appearance, the Name of Dardanelles comes
from Dardane, an antient City not far off it,
and would have been bury'd in oblivion, but
for the Peace which was there concluded be-
tween Mithridates and Sylla, General of the Ro-
man Army [c]. This Strait was call'd the Arm of
St. George, on occafion of a Village beyond Gal-
[b] Et fatis amiffa, locus hic infamis ab Helle. Ovid. Epift.
Leand, ad Hero. [<] Plutarch. in Syll.
lipoli,
140
A VOYAGE into the Levant.
lipoli, call'd [d] Periftafis, where there's a famous
Church of St. George, much refpected by the
Greeks.
The Canal is in a fine Country, bounded on
each fide with fruitful Hills, on which you
fee ſometimes Vineyards, fometimes Olive Plan-
tations, and a deal of arable Land. As you go
in, you leave Thrace and [e] Cape Greek on the
left hand; Phrygia and [f] Cape Janiſſari on the
right; the Propontis, or Sea of Marmara, prefents
itſelf on the North; the Archipelago remains in
the South The Mouth of the Canal is four
Miles and a half over: it is defended by the new
Caftles which Mahomet IV. built there in 1659,
to fecure his Fleet from the Infults of the Venetians,
who uſed to come and attack it in fight of the
old Caftles. The Generals Morofini, Bembo, Mo-
cenigo, fignaliz'd themſelves here more than once,
during the Candian War.
The Waters that pafs through this Canal from
out of the Propontis, are as rapid as if they flow'd
beneath a Bridge: when the North Wind blows,
no Ship can enter; but when 'tis South, you
hardly perceive any Current at all: only be-
ware of the Caſtles.
And yet this Paffage might be forced without
much danger, the Caftles being above four Miles
afunder: the Turkish Artillery, however monftrous
they look, would not much annoy the Ships, if
they had a good Wind, and went in a File. The
Port-holes of the Cannon belonging to thefe
Caftles, look like Coach-houſe Doors; but the
기
​[4] Περίςασις. [e] Promontorium Maftufia. Plin. Hift.
Nat. lib. 4. cap 11. Solin. cap. 10. Capell. lib. 6. Masxoia 2-
nea. Ptol. lib. 3. cap. 12. To ПTEOINEwy. Strab. lib. 13.
[f] Promontorium Sigæum. Plin. ibid. Etyeías anex. Strab.
ibid. Impetum deinde fumit Hellefpontus & mare jincumbit,
vorticibus limitem fodiens, donec Afiam abrumpat Europa.
Plin. Hift. Nat. lib. 5. cap. 32,
Cannon,
Vol.I.
The first new Castle on the Afiatick fide.
Face of the first new Castle on the Yiatick Side
Face of the first new Castle on the European Side.
The first new Castle on the European Side.
ΜΜΜΜΜΜΜΜΜΜΜΜΜ
Pag.341.
ވލ
H.I.
Pag.342.
Pag
161.I.
Vol.I.
- je da
Face of the Second Castle on the djiatick Side.
Face of the Second Castle on y European Side.
T
Pag
The Old Castle on y Yiatick Side.
The Old Castle on Ý European Side».
3.
87
Defcript. of the Strait of the Dardanells. 141
Cannon, which are the largeſt I ever beheld, not
being fet on Carriages, can't fire above once.
And who would dare to charge 'em in the pre-
fence of Ships of War, that would pour in fuch
Broadfides upon 'em, as would foon demoliſh the
Walls of the Caftles, which are not terrass'd,
and bury beneath their Ruins both Guns and
Gunners? half a dozen Bombs would do the
bufinefs.
Such Merchant-ſhips as come from Conftantino-
ple, ftop three Days at the Caftle of the Afian
fide, to be fearch'd, whether they have any of
the Turks Slaves on board: and yet there paffes
not a Day, but fome or other of theſe poor
Creatures make a fhift to eſcape: no Ship of
War, of whatever Nation, is exempted from
being thus vifited, without exprefs Order from
the Porte: it is true, 'tis rather a Ceremony than
a Search.
The Geographers are generally of opinion,
that the Caftles of the Dardanelles are built on
the Ruins of Seftos and Abydos, two antient
Towns famed for the Loves of Hero and Le-
ander [g]; but they are manifeftly miſtaken, for
the Caſtles are directly oppofite to each other,
whereas thofe two Towns were fituated very dit-
ferently. Seftos was fo far advanced towards the
Propontis, that Strabo [b] reckons 3750 Paces from
the Port of Abydos to that of Seftos [i]. Leander
muſt have been a ftout Blade, to fwim fuch a
length to fee his Miftrefs; and accordingly he
is reprefented on the Medals of Caracalla and
Alexander Severus, as conducted by a Cupid flying
before him with a Torch, no leſs an Affiſtance
to him than the Beacon his Miſtreſs took care
[g] Abydos magni quondam amoris commercio infignis eft.
Amm. Marcel. lib. 1. cap. 19. [b] Rer. Geog. lib. 13.
[i] Herod. lib.
7.
ſhould
142 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
fhould be kindled on the top of the Tower
where ſhe uſed to wait his coming: a Man
muſt be no Milk-fop, to make love in that fort.
Strabo's Account of the Situation of Seftos and
Abydos is our beſt Rule to go by: not only fo,
but there are no Remnants of Antiquity near
the Caſtles, and the narroweft place of the Canal
is three Miles farther, on the fide of Maita in
Europe. There are ſtill to be ſeen alſo ſome re-
markable Foundations and old ruinous Buildings
on the Afia fide, where Abydos ftood.
Xerxes, whofe Father caus'd that Town to be
burnt, to cut off from the Scythians an Entrance
into Afia Minor [k], judicioufly choſe this Strait
to paſs his Army over into Greece; for Strabo writes,
that where he made his Bridge, 'twas about a
Mile over. Out of a ridiculous Vanity, as if he
had a mind to lord it over the Elements, that
Monarch order'd 300 Laſhes to be given to the
Sea, and a pair of Hand-fetters to be caft into it,
for its daring to break down the firft Bridge he
laid over it: the Workmen fared worfe, for they
had their Heads ftruck off. Some Days after
this, Xerxes being defirous to reconcile himfelf
with the Sea, made Libations to it out of a golden
Bottle, and befought the Sun to remove the Ob-
ftacles that impeded his fubduing all Europe: the
Bottle was thrown into the Canal, with a gold
Cup and a Scymeter. I cannot determine, fays
Herodotus, from whom we learn this Ceremony;
whether Xerxes, by cafting theſe things into the
Water, meant it as a Sacrifice to the Sun, or whether
out of Compunction of Mind, for cauſing it to be
fcourg'd, he fought by his Offerings to make a-
mends for the Outrage he thought he had done
to it.
[k] Herod. ibid.
M. Gilles
Defcript. of the Strait of the Dardanelles. 143
M. Gilles [] thinks, that the Greek Poets fa-
ther'd this Folly on Xerxes, and that Herodotus
took the thing too feriously: the 300 Lafhes,
according to M. Gilies, betoken fo many An-
chors, which they had caft into the Sea to fix
the Ships that ferv'd toward the building this
fecond Bridge; and by the Pair of Fetters is
defign'd the two Iron Chains that faften'd 'em
together at both ends, and on each fide.
Over this fecond Bridge, [m] within the com-
paſs of feven Days and feven Nights, march'd
feventeen hundred thouſand Foot-foldiers, ac-
cording to [n] Herodotus, and fourfcore thoufand
Horfe, exclufive of the Camels and Carriages.
Diodorus Siculus [o] fays, but eight hundred
thouſand Foot; Ifocrates, [p] not ſo many by a
hundred thouſand; [9] Ælianus holds to this
Number for all the Troops together, Horfe and
Foot Justin and Orofius add thereto three
hundred thouſand Auxiliaries: laftly, Cornelius
Nepos [r] fixes the Infantry at feven hundred
thoufand, but increaſes the Cavalry to four
hundred thouſand.
:
The Turks, when they made their firft In-
curfions over this Canal, came very fhort of
fuch Numbers; but before we fpeak of that,
'tis good to obſerve, that Parmenio was order'd
by Alexander the Great to tranfport his Cavalry,
and moſt of the Infantry, from Seftos to Abydos,
for which Service they employ'd 160 Gallies,
befides Ships of Burden. Chalcondylus affirms,
that under the Ottoman Empire 8oco Turks took,
as it were, a Leap over the Hellefpont, and pene-
trated beyond the Danube, where they were re-
[] De Bofph. Thrac. lib. 2. cap. 12.
1. de Exped. Alex. [n] Herod. ibid.
[] In Panathenaic.
lib. 3. part. 2.
lib. 13. cap. 3.
In Themift.
[m] Arrian. lib.
[e] Biblioth.
[9] Var. Hift.
puls d
144
A VOYAGE into the Levant.
puls'd by the Scythians, and forced back into
Afia; while the Emperors of Conftantinople, An-
dronicus the old and the young, of the Family of
the Paleologi, were ruining the Empire by their
Divifion the Muffulmen however were not fo
totally expell'd, but that there ftill remain'd be-
hind fome of 'em, particularly in Thrace, whi-
ther they afterwards drew greater Numbers under
Solyman the Son of Orcan.
According to Leunclavius [s], it was five Miles
from the Dardanelles, where this Transfretation
was perform'd; for he fuppofes that [t] Maita is
but three Miles diftant therefrom, on the Europe
fide; and he places, two Miles from Maita, the
Caftle of [u] Zemenic, where the Turks landed.
Solyman walking one day along the Borders of
Phrygia, which he had newly conquer'd, was fo
ftruck with the Ruins of Troy, that he fuddenly
fell into a profound Meditation. Jusuph Ezes
Bey, one of his principal Officers, could not for-
bear asking him the occafion of it: I would
(faid Solyman) gladly croſs the Sea to Greece, with-
out the Privity of the Chriftians. Ezes, to plea-
fure him, puts himſelf into a Boat with but one
Friend, and off he goes to the Europe fide,
where he feizes and carries back a Greek to his
Maſter, who treated him fo well, that he under-
took to fhew that Prince the fhorteft way to en-
ter Greece by ſtealth. Seven or eight hundred
pick'd Soldiers being carry'd over by Night, the
Priſoner led them directly to the Caſtle of Zeme-
nic, where they met with no Refiſtance, the In-
habitants being bufy'd about their Harveſt, and
the Caſtle almoſt bury'd under huge Heaps of
Dung. The Turks, far from mal-treating the
[s] Anmal. Sultan. Ofmen. & Hift. Muffulm. [] Máfo-
TOS. Herod. [u] Xierdonaser, Cimenlic Iffar, a forry
Town 20 miles from Gallipoli.
People,
Defcript. of the Strait of the Dardanelles. 145
People, exprefs'd the greateſt Love to them, and
gave 'em Prefents: they did indeed fend away a
few Priſoners to Solyman, to affure him of thẹ
Place's being taken: fhortly after, the Cavalry
repair'd thither likewife. At length Gallipoli was
attack'd and taken, Anno 1357. Solyman died
the fame Year by a Fall from his Horfe in
hunting. Orcan furvived him but two Months:
he was fucceeded by Mourat, his fecond Son, who
took Adrianople in 1360, and made it the Capi-
tal Seat of his Empire in Europe, as Prufa was
in Afia.
I have been often told at Conftantinople, that
the Turkiſh Annals were cramm'd with Stories and
Stratagems, which the Turks boaft of, in their
Conquefts over the Chriſtians. The following is
one related by Leunclavius [x], and tranflated
from the Turkish Original. The fame Solyman
mention'd before, fends fourfcore Fellows over
the Hellefpont: thefe lurking in the Vineyards
till Break of Day, laid hold of half a dozen
Huſbandmen, as they were going to their Work;
the next Night feventy of theſe Muſulmen put
themſelves in ambush near the Town, while the
other ten remain'd farther off with their Priſon-
ers, four of whom they murder'd, and hung on
Trees upon a rifing Ground, with their Heels
upwards, and ript out their Bowels as Butchers
do Sheep in the Shambles: one of 'em was put
on a Spit like a Pig, and fuch as remain'd alive,
were obliged to turn the Spit, and roaft him at a
Fire. Next day the Turks took more Prifoners,
who happen'd to be decrepid old Men, that
could hardly creep along: they were ftrangely
frighten'd to hear they were Turks, and lived
upon nothing but Man's Flefh. After fome very
difmal Dialogues they difmifs'd 'em, telling 'em
[x] Hift. Muffulm. lib. 4.
L
they
146
A VOYAGE into the Levant.
they were uſed to better Meat, but bade 'em b
fure to fend 'em fome young Folks to feed upon
About goes the Spit all the while. The old
Men, not having feen above ten Turks, return'd
to Town fafter than they went out, and fell a
fwearing like mad at their Townfmen: What a
devil do you ſtand here for, with your Fingers in
your Mouths? Look yonder! fee thofe Turks:
there's but half a ſcore of 'em, and they're roaſt-
ing one of our Brethren, and would have done
the fame by us, but that we were too tough and
skinny nothing but young Fleſh will down with
them. The Commandant of the Place, who was
in the Prime of his Years, order'd out all the
young Fellows immediately to go and kill the
Turks: accordingly out they all run. Mean
while the feventy Muffulmen, who lay conceal'd
among the Bufhes, enter'd the Place and feiz'd
the Gates, as foon as they faw the Croud at a pro-
per Diſtance. The Populace ftill prefs'd forward,
without fufpecting the Stratagem: at laft the
Turks that were roafting the Chriftian, inftead of
running farther into the Country, made the beſt
of their way to the Town. What Fools are
they, faid the Greeks, to take refuge in our
Houſes! let 'em go, let 'em go, we'll deftroy
'em all together. But as foon as theſe fame
Fools were got into the Town, they fhut the
Gates, and mounted the Walls with their Com-
rades, and moſt of the Children which were left
in the Houſes. The poor Greeks look'd very
ſheepish at this Spectacle: they were told, un-
leſs they return'd to their Houſes, they would
cut the Throats of all the Children; but if they
would fubmit, they ſhould have no harm done
'em. The Populace, not knowing what to do,
accepted of the Offer; but the Perfons of Di-
ftinction ſtood out, till the Turks had fworn on
the
Pag.346.
Lol. I.
康
​GALLIPOLI
of Galbrel
Deſcription of the City of Gallipoli. 147
the Alcoran not to take their Eftates from 'em.
Tho' no Oath can be propos'd that a Villain will
not take, yet they had recourfe to a kind of
mental Reftriction, unexpected by the Greeks:
the Men of Note were all put to death, tho' their
Eſtates were not touch'd, which the Turks
affured 'em they would not. The Muſulmen are
very good at theſe Diſtinctions: Mahomet II.
after the taking of Negropont, caus'd the Go-
vernor to be faw'd through the Body, faying, he
had promis'd to fpare his Head, but not his
Trunk.
The Greek Hiftorians differ in all thefe Adven-
tures: for Ducas pretends, that the Turks pafs'd
not the Hellefpont for the firſt time till the Years
1356 and 1357; that it was Homur, Son of Atin,
and Orcan, who ravaged all Thrace: one was
Maſter of Smyrna and Ephefus, and the other of
Prufa. Certain it is, the Muffulmen did not in-
feſt Europe till about 700 Years after the Eſta-
bliſhment of Mahometiſm in Afia: for the Egira,
or Mahometan Æra, which takes its Date from
Mahomet's Flight from Mecha, began in the
622d Year of Chrift; and Othoman, the first
Emperor of the Turks, died not till Anno 1328.
Gallipoli [x] was the firft Town they GALLIPOLI.
canton'd themſelves in. The Situation
of that Place is fo convenient for paffing into
Thrace, that the Princes, who have had Deſigns
on that Province, have ever begun by making
themſelves Mafters of that Town. It fell to the
fhare of the Venetians, after the taking of Con-
ftantinople by the Latins [y]: but [2] Vatace, Empe-
[x] Callipolis. Plin. lib. 4. cap. II. Καλλίπολις.
[] Gregor. IX. Epiſt. 313. 1. 9. Du Cange Hift. of the Emp.
of Conft. lib. 3. [z] Joannes Ducas, qui & Batatza generque
Theodori Lafcaris, imperii fedem habuit Magnefiæ ad Sipylum
annis 33. Ducas Hift. Byzant.
L 2
ror
148 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
ror of the Greeks, who made his Refidence at
Magnefia of Mount Sipylus, being at War with
Robert de Courtenai, fourth French Emperor, be-
fieg'd it, took it, and utterly deftroy'd it in
[z] 1235. The Catalans, who fignaliz'd them-
felves in fo many Rencounters in Greece, fortify'd
themſelves at Gallipoli in 1306, under Roger de
Flor, Vice-admiral of Sicily. After the Death
of that General, who was murder'd at Conftanti-
nople, in violation of a folemn Oath, made by the
Emperor Andronicus by the Image of the Virgin
painted by St. Luke, the Spaniards cut to pieces
moſt of the Burghers, and fo well intrench'd
themſelves in the Town, that Michael Paleologus,
the Emperor's Son, was fain to raife the Siege.
[a] Remond Montaner, and the Wives of the Ca-
talans, whofe Hufbands were in the Army that
kept the Country, made fo gallant a Defence
againſt Anthony Spinola, who form'd a fecond
Siege by order of the Emperor, that the Genoefe
were conſtrain'd to retire. At length the Cata-
lans, perfuaded that they could not hold out long
in Gallipoli, levell'd the Works in [b] 1307.
Thus Solyman Son of Orcan must have got it cheap
in [c] 1357, for the Town was at that time dif
mantled; and the Emperor [d] John Paleologus,
to comfort himfelf for the Lots of it, faid he had
only loft a Jar of Wine and a Stye for Hogs;
alluding, doubtless, to the Magazines of Victuals,
and Cellars built by [] Juftinian, not only for
maintaining a ſtrong Garrifon within the Town,
but Troops without. In the fame view that Em-
peror, according to Procopius, caus'd Gallipoli to
be fubftantially wall'd about. Bajazet I. know-
ing the Importance of this Poft for paffing from
[] Du Cange ibid. lib. 6. [a] Pachim. lib. 13. cap. 24.
[b] Du Cange ibid. [<] Calvif. [d] Annal. Turc. [c] Pro-
cop. de Adific. Juft. lib. 4. cap. 10.
Prufa
Defcription of the City of Gallipoli. 149
Prufa to Adrianople, which at that time were the
two Capital Seats of the Ottoman Empire, caus'd
Gallipoli to be repair'd in [ƒ] 1391: he ftrength-
ened it with a huge Tower, and made a good
Port for his Gallies. Mustapha, [g] one of his
Sons, fail'd not to feize it after the Death of Ma-
homet I. in order to bar the Entrance of Amu-
rat I. into Europe: but this latter, who was his
Nephew and lawful Succeffor, retook Gallipoli and
Adrianople, where he hang'd up Mustapha.
The Genoefe facilitated to Amurat the Paffage of
the Canal. [b] Ducas reports, that it was done
by the help of the Ships of John Adorne Podeftat
of the new Phocea; but this Podeftat, young as
he was, improved the Opportunity like a wife
Man: In the middle of the way he ask'd the
Sultan an Exemption from the Tribute paid
yearly by the Genoefe for the Alum of Phoceà,
and obtain'd it. [i] Chalcocondylus mentions no-
thing of the Alum, but affirms this Tranſporta-
tion was procured by dint of Money; and
[k] Leunclavius adds, that Amurat gave no lefs
than one or two Ducats for each Soldier.
Gallipoli is ftill a large Town at the Mouth of
the Propontis, or Sea of Marmara, in a Strait
about five Miles broad: it is 25 Miles from the
Dardanelles, 40 from the Ifles of Marmara, and
12 from Conftantinople. Gallipoli is in a Peninfula,
which has two Ports, one to the South, and the
other to the North. They reckon in it about
10,000 Turks, 3500 Greeks, not quite fo many
Jews. The Bazar, or the Bezeftein, the place
where the Merchandizes are fold, is a handfom
Houſe with ſeveral Domes cover'd over with
Lead: the Town has no Walls, and is only de-
fended by a forry fquare Caſtle, with an old
[f] Ducas Hift. Byzant. cap. 4. [g] Idem, c. 24 [b] Cap.
25, & 27 [i] Lib. 5. [k] Pand. Hift. Jun. cap. 89.
L 3
Tower,
150 AVOYAGE into the Levant.
;
Tower, which doubtless is that of Bajazet We
were affured the Doors to the Greek and Jews
Houſes were not above two foot and a half high,
and the like in many Towns of Turky, to pre-
vent the Turks in their Frolicks from coming on
Horſe-back into their Houfes, where they would
commit a thouſand Outrages.
I can fay no more of Gallipoli, not having been
perfonally in it: we anchor'd in a Port [1] fix
Miles below it, the North Wind detaining us
there till the Holy Saturday, and we had the
Mortification not to land at Gallipoli :
all we
could do, was, as we pafs'd by, to take a
Draught of it, wherein we were favour'd very
opportunely by a Calm of Weather.
We were told, that on the Afia fide, right
againft Gallipoli, there was a Village call'd Char-
dac or Camanar, whither they come from Smyrna
to paſs the Canal, and take the way to Gallipoli
by Land, and that the Winds were not favour-
able for going by Sea to Conftantinople. We would
gladly have taken this Road. On the way ftands
Rodofto, Heraclea, Sclivrea, and other Places,
touching which fundry Obfervations might be
made; but our Captain would not put in any
where on the Europe fide, and the Wind rifing
South-weft, foon brought us in fight of the Ifles
of Marmara, on the fide whereof is a beggarly
Town named Lartachi, faid to be the old City
of Priapus. The Wind wafted us over the Pro-
pontis, and prefented us the fineſt View in the
World, I mean, the Seven Towers and the Coaſt
of Conftantinople, which poffeffes the Entrance of
the Thracian Bosphorus, call'd likewife the Canal
of the Black Sea.
A
[An Portus Cœlos, or Koinós? Amm. Marc. lib. 2. cap. 2.
Conftan-
Defcription of Conftantinople.
151-
CONSTAN-
TINOPLE.
Conftantinople, with its Suburbs, is,
beyond Difpute, the largeſt City of
Europe; its Situation, by confent of all
Travellers, and even the antient [m] Hiftorians,
is the moſt agreeable and the moſt advantageous
of the whole Univerſe. It ſeems as if the Canal
of the Dardanelles, and that of the Black Sea,
were made on purpoſe to bring it the Riches of
the four Quarters of the World: thofe of the
Mogul, the Indies, the remoteft North, China, and
Japan, come by the way of the Black Sea; and
by the Canal of the White Sea come the Mer-
chandizes of Arabia, Egypt, Ethiopia, the Coaſt
of Africk, the West Indies, and whatever Europe
produces. Thefe two Canals are as the Doors of
Conftantinople; the North and South, which are
the ordinary Winds there, are as it were the two
Leaves of the Door: [n] when the North Wind
blows, the South Door is fhut, that is, nothing
can come in from the Southern Coaft; this Door
opens when the South Wind reigns: if you will
not allow thefe Winds to be call'd the Doors of
Conftantinople, you must agree 'em to be its Keys
at leaſt.
M. Thevenot will have Conftantinople to be not
fo big as Paris, and but ten or twelve Miles
about; M. Spon allows it fifteen: for my part, I
believe its Compafs to be twenty-three Miles; to
which if you add twelve for the Suburbs of Ga-
lata, Caffun-pacha, Pera, Topana, Fundukli, the
Circumference of this vaft City will be 34 or 35
Miles. I can't hold with them, who reckon
Scutari among the Suburbs of Conftantinople, be-
caufe 'tis only parted by the Breadth of the
Canal; neither on the other hand can I come in-
[m] Polyb. Hift. lib. 4. Tacit. Ann. lib. 12. [] Egy
Εισάγει
μου εἰς τὸν πόντον νότος, ἐξάγει ἢ βορέας, καὶ τέτοις ἀνάγκη
χρήθαι πρὸς ἑκάτερον τὸν δρόμον τοῖς ανέμοις. Polyb. Hift.
lib. 4.
L 4
to
152 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
to their Sentiment, who cut off from Conftanti-
nople all the Suburbs beyond the Port; fince even
under the firſt Chriſtian Emperors, Galeta was the
thirteenth Region of the City. The Fig-tree
Quarter, which is the fame as Galata, makes
part of the City, according to the Emperor
Anaftafius [0]; and Juftinian [p] placed it in the
new Circumference. By little and little they
have join'd to Galata the neighbouring Towns,
as at Paris the Faux-bourg St. Germain, the Faux-
bourg St. Antoin, and others.
We muſt then diftinguifh the two parts in
Conftantinople, that on this fide the Port, and
that on the other fide: the first is the antient
Byzantium; and Conftantinople, whoſe Plan is of a
triangular Figure: two of its fides are waſh'd by
the Sea, namely, that of the Port, which is the
crookedeft of all, and that which goes from the
Point of the Seraglio to the Seven Towers; the
third is longer than the reft, and is on the firm
Land. To each of the two firft they ufually
allow feven Miles, and nine Miles to the other:
the first Angle of this City is at the Seven Towers,
the ſecond at the Point of the Seraglio, and the
third at the Mofque of Ejoub, towards the freſh
Waters.
The Walls of Conftantinople are very good
thofe of the Land-fide have a double Range
twenty foot from each other, and defended' by a
flat-bottom❜d Ditch fome twenty-five foot broad:
the outer Wall, which is about two Toifes high,
is defended by 250 low Towers; the inner Wall
is 'above twenty foot high, and its Towers,
which anfwer to thofe of the outer, are well pro-
portion'd. The Battlements, the Courtines, the
Port holes, are well-contriv'd, but we faw no
Artillery Free-ſtone is what it moſtly conſiſts of.
[o] Novel. 59.
[p] In lib. 18. Cod. de Sacr. Ecclef.
I think
Defcription of Conftantinople.
153
I think we counted five Gates on this fide: it
might be eaſily fortify'd, for the Situation is na-
turally floping, very far from commanding the
City.
The Walls from the Seven Towers to the Se-
raglio, and thofe along the Port, look to be
fomewhat more difregarded: there's no going
round 'em, becaufe of feveral Out-jettings to
the Water. There's no Wharf or Key: fome
part of the Walls, eſpecially toward the Port,
is faddled with Houfes: the Towers of both
fides are ſet at a proper diſtance, but have been
often damaged by Storms, and repair'd as often
by the Greek Emperors Theophilus, Michael, Bafil,
Conftantine Porphyrogenetes, Manuel Comnenes, John
Paleologus; as may be feen by the Infcriptions on
the Seven Towers, and other Places in and about
the Walls.
+
ΙΩ ΕΝ
3d
ΧΩ ΑΥΤΟ
ΚΡΑΤΟΡΟΣ
ΠΑΛΑΙΟ
ΛΟΓΟΥ.
Of John Paleologus, Emperor
in Jefus Chrift.
Thefe following are as you go from the Seven
Towers to the Seraglio.
ΠΑΣΙ ΡΩΜΑΙΟΙΣ ΜΕΓΑΣ ΔΕΣΠΟΤΗΣ ΕΓΕΙΡΕ
ΡΩΜΑΝΟΣ ΝΕΟΝ ΠΑΝΜΕΓΙΣΤΟΝ ΤΟΝΔΕ ΠΥΡ-
ΓΟΝ ΕΚ ΒΑΘΡΩΝ.
-
Romanus, Illuftrious Emperor of all the Greeks,
1
did rebuild from the very Foundation this new large
Fower.
ΠΥΡΓΟΣ
1
1
Γ
154 AVOYAGE into the Levant.
ΠΥΡΓΟΣ ΒΑΣΙΛΕΙΟΥ ΚΑΙ ΚΟΝΣΤΑΝΤΙΝΟΥ
ΠΙΣΤΩΝ ΕΝ ΧΩ ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΩΝ ΕΥΣΕΒΕΙΣ
ΒΑΣΙΛΕΙΣ ΡΩΜΕΩΝ.
The Tower of Bafilius and Conftantine, faithful
Emperors in Jefus Chrift, pious Kings of the Romans.
ΠΥΡΓΟΣ ΘΕΟΦΙΛΟΥ ΕΝ
ΚΡΙΣΤΩ ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΟΣ.
The Tower of Theophilus, Emperor in Jefus
Chrift.
ΠΥΡΓΟΣ ΘΕΟΦΙΛΟΥ ΚΑΙ ΜΙ
ΧΑΗΛ ΠΙΣΤΩΝ ΕΝ ΧΩ
ΑΥΤΟΚΡΑΤΟΡΩΝ.
The Tower of Theophilus and Michael, faithful
Emperors in Jefus Chrift.
ΑΝΕΚΑΙΝΙΣΘΗ ΕΠΙ ΒΑΣΙΛΕΙΟΥ ΚΑΙ ΚΟΝ-
ΣΤΑΝΤΙΝΟΥ ΤΩΝ ΠΟΡΦΥΡΟΓΕΝΝΗΤΩΝ ΦΙΛΟ-
ΚΡΙΣΤΩΝ ΣΕΒΑΣΤΩΝ ΔΕΣΠΟΤΩΝ ΕΝ ΕΤΕ Κ.
Φ. Κ. Α.
This Tower was renew'd under Bafil and Conftan-
tine Porphyrogenetes, Servants of Jefus Chrift,
auguft Emperors in the Year ......
ΑΝΕΚΑΙΝΙΣΘΗ ΕΠΙ ΜΑΝΟΥΗΛ ΤΟΥ ΦΙΛΟΧΡΙ
ΒΑΣΙΛΕΙΟΣ ΡΩΜΕΙΟΥ ΥΙΟΥ ΕΝ . . . . ΚΑΙ ΑΥΤΟ-
ΚΡΑΤΟΡΟΣ ΡΟΜΑΙΩΝ ΤΟΥ ΚΟΜΝΗΝΟΥ ΕΝ
ΕΤΕΙ ΦΧΟΒΜΒ.
This Tower was renew'd under Manuel, Servant
of Jefus Chrift, Roman Emperor, Son ..... and
of the Roman Emperor Comnenes, in the Year
ON
1
Defcription of Conftantinople.
155
1
ΟΝ ΤΗΣ ΘΑΛΑΣΣΗΣ ΘΡΑΥΣΜΟΣΜΑΡΚΩ ΚΡΟ-
ΝΩ ΚΛΥΔΟΝΙ ΠΟΛΛΩ ΚΑΙ ΣΦΟΔΡΩ ΡΗΓΝΥΜΕ-
ΝΟΝ ΠΕΣΕΙΝ ΚΑΤΕΝΑΓΚΑΣΕ ΠΥΡΓΟΝ ΕΚ ΒΑ-
ΘΡΩΝ ΒΑΣΙΛΕΙΟΣ ΕΓΕΙΡΕ ΕΥΣΕΒΗΣ ΑΝΑΞ.
This Tower, which the Concuffions of the Sea,
violently and often repeated, had brought to ruin, was
rebuilt from the Foundation by the pious King Baſil.
There are feven Gates from the Point of the
Seraglio to the Seven Towers; five land-ward,
and eleven on the Port; but whichever Gate
you go in at, you mount an Aſcent. Conftantine,
who defign'd to make Conftantinople like Rome,
could not have found a better Spot for Eminences.
It is a very tirefome City for Foot-travellers:
Perfons of note go on horſe-back. Before we
enter the Town, we muft once more admire the
Outfide: Nothing upon Earth can be more de-
lightful, than with one Glance of the Eye to dif
cover all the Houſes of the biggeſt City in Europe,
whofe Roofings, Terraffes, Balconies, and Gar-
dens form a Variety of Amphitheatres, fet off
with Bezeftains (Places like our Changes, for fell-
ing Wares) Caravan-ferais (Houfes of Hofpita-
lity) Seraglios, and efpecially Mofques or
Churches, which far outfhew ours in France.
Thefe Mofques, tho' hideous for their Bulk,
yet in appearance have nothing about 'em but
what is beautiful; the Defects and Oddneffes of
the Turkish Architecture not being difcernable fo
far off: on the contrary, their principal Domes,
accompany'd with other little Domes, both co-
ver'd with Lead or Gilding; their Steeples, if I
may uſe that word for Towers very flender and
extremely high, with the Crefcent at top; all to-
gether yield a charming Spectacle to one that
ftands at the Entrance of the Canal of the Black
Sea:
156 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
Sea: nay, this Canal itſelf ſtrikes you with admi-
ration; for Fanari-kiofc, Chalcedon, Scutari, and
the adjoining Country, have an agreeable effect
upon the Eye, when, no longer able to bear the
Luftre of Conftantinople, you turn your Face to
the right.
+
I muſt however confefs, that the Objects we
had ſeen from our Ship, appear'd quite different,
on comparing them with thofe that prefented
themſelves to us when we went afhore. I know not
whether it was the Onions they fell at the corner of
every Street, that awaken'd in us the Idea of thoſe
famous Temples in Egypt, whofe Outfide dazled
the Beholder's Eye; but I could not help compar-
ing Conftantinople with thoſe ſtately Edifices,
wherein were nothing but Crocodiles, Rats, Leeks,
Onions, which thofe Idolaters regarded as fo
many Deities. The Houfes of Galata, where
we landed, are low, built moftly of Wood and
Mud, fo that a Fire confumes thouſands of 'em
in a Day; a Difafter which frequently befalls 'em,
either from the Turks fmoking in bed, or elfe done
on purpofe by the Soldiers for the fake of pil-
fering. It would be no great damage, if nothing
but the Houfe was deſtroy'd, for they coft but a
trifle to build again, and there's Wood enough
on the Coafts of the Black Sea to rebuild Conftan-
tinople once a Year, if occafion were; but a world
of Families are utterly undone by the burning of
their Merchandizes. Tis a fmall matter, when
they ſpeak but of 2 or 3000 Houfes burnt: a Man
has often the mortification to fee his Houfe pull'd
down and pillaged, tho' the Fire be 200 Paces
off; efpecially when the North-eaft, which the
Turks call [q] the black Wind, is in its fury. They
have found no other Remedy to prevent the
whole Town from being devour'd, but only to
[9] Cara-fel.
blow
Defcription of Conftantinople.
157
blow up a great many Houfes, otherwiſe the
Conflagration would become general. The fo-
reign Merchants have of late Years wifely be-
thought themſelves to build at Galata very fubftan-
tial Ware-houſes of Free-ftone, ftanding fingle,
and having no more Windows than are barely ne-
ceffary; the Shutters whereof, as well as the
Doors, are cover'd with Iron Plates.
The Plague and the Levantis, next to Fire, are
the two Scourges of Conftantinople. It is true, the
Turks are unworthy to live; they ftand and fee 5
or 600 die in a Day of this cruel Diftemper, with-
out doing the leaft thing either to avoid it or
ſtruggle against it, and never begin their Procef-
fions till it fweeps away about 1200 in a Day.
They buy and fell the Goods and Houfhold Stuff
of the Infected, juft as if they had died of Old-
age or a violent Death. As for us, we had the
Forecaft, when we fet out from Marfeilles, to lay
in a provifion of Lapis Infernalis; and if the leaft
Spot had appear'd on our Body, we ſhould not
have fail'd to tap it with a Lance, ſcarify it, and
clap fome of this cauterizing Stone upon it, to
eat away as foon as poffible that part where the
Strength of the Poifon diſcharges itfelf: befides
this, we would have made uſe of Treakle, Orvi-
etan, English Drops, and other cordial and ſpiri-
tuous Medicaments, which we had Box-fulls of.
Theſe Remedies muſt be preceded by the Ufe of
Emetick Tartar, which is to be repeated accord-
ing to occafion without delay, the Moment the
Head ails any thing, or the leaft Loathing is felt.
As for the Levantis, who are Soldiers of the
Gallies, that infult People with their Cutlaffes in
their Hand, and make ugly Faces to frighten
fuch as don't know 'em ; fome Years ago the Cai-
macan, Governor of the City, at the follicita-
tion of the Ambaffadors, gave Strangers a per-
miflion
158 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
miffion to defend themſelves againſt theſe difor-
derly Rake-fhames, who have been often quell'd
by dint of Sword and Piſtol. Tho' the Turkiſh
Bravoes look on us as a parcel of very aukard Fel-
lows, that know not how to handle our Arms
nobly and with a good grace; yet they fly from
the Point of our Swords. Thefe Chriftian Dogs,
fay they, run a Man through the Guts at once,
without giving him time to defend himself. Our
Swords do their bufinefs off-hand, whereas fome
Movements of the Body are required for the Ufe
of a Scymeter. As foon as ever you perceive in
the Streets of Conftantinople any Perfons making
towards ye, in a Waiſtcoat and Drawers, bare-
legg'd, with only Pumps on, and a Ponyard in
their Hand, you muſt unfheath your Sword: fome
have the precaution to carry it naked under their
Coat. If you wear a Veft, you ſhould not ftir
without Pocket-piftols, well charged and primed,
or at leaſt ſomething like 'em. A certain French
Merchant one Day put to flight a couple of theſe
Levantis with a large Inkhorn, which they took
for fome Fire-arms. They fancy our Canes have
Tucks within 'em, and always take their meaſures
from the Countenance we bear towards 'em.
avoid their Infults, People fometimes take Jani-
zaries for their Guard.
To
The Marquifs de Ferriol gave us fome of his
Guard to go along with us: he lodg'd us in the
Chateau-gaillard, a Quarter in the Palais de France,
which he had allotted for us. This Palace feem'd
to us to be an inchanted Place, for the Mifery we
had ſeen in the Archipelago, had given us a very
difadvantageous Notion of the reft of Turky. The
Palace of France is the most agreeable Houfe
in all Conftantinople to Perfons bred up in Europe:
it was built by order of Henry IV. when M. de
Breves was Ambaffador, but there were fine
Apartments
Defcription of Conftantinople.
159
Apartments made by M. de Nointel: Gentlemen
there meet with every thing that's fit for 'em.
Out of this Palace, they know not what Goad Eating
means; no, not if you were to go to the farther
end of Japan. The Ambaffador's Table is as
well fupply'd as the beſt in Paris: inſtead of
Copper-veffels tinn'd over, which even the Grand
Signior uſes in the Seraglio, you ſee nothing in
his Excellency's Houfe but Piles of filver Plates,
and Buffets charg'd with Bafons, Ewers, Salvers,
Vafes, and Goblets of the fame Metal. All the
Nations of the World are tempted thither by
the Magnificence and engaging well-bred Beha-
viour of the Owner. We cannot fufficiently admire
with what Refolution the Marquis de Ferriol
maintains the Grandeur of the French Name, at
a Court where one is every Day expos'd to the
Caprices of new Minifters.
While our Turkish Habits were making, we
rambled about the Town in our French Dreſs,
with a Sword to our fide, a powder'd Wig and
Hat cock'd, tho' nothing is more offenfive to the
Muffulmen, eſpecially fuch as live farther up in
the main Land. 'Tis not fo with thofe of Con-
Stantinople and Smyrna: by a frequency of feeing
us in our ordinary equipage, they are familiarized
to our ways. We ſhould have made no difficulty
of walking the Streets without Janizaries, if my
Lord Ambaffador, in regard we were employ'd
by his Majefty, had not order'd fome to attend
us wherever we went.
The Streets of Conftantinople are very ill paved,
fome not at all: the only Street that is practicable;
is that which goes from the Seraglio to the Gate
of Adrianople: the reſt are cloſe, dark, deep, and
look like fo many cut-throat Lanes; and yet you
frequently meet with good Buildings, Bagnios,
Bazars, and fome Houfes of great Men, built
with
160 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
with Lime and Sand, and angled with Free-
ftone, the Apartments running very cleverly into
one another.
We thought the Place more populous than
they told us it was: the Houfes are but two Sto-
ries high, and are well fill'd. I make no que-
ftion but there are as many People at Conftantinople
as in Paris. You meet with but few Turks in the
Streets: they keep within Doors, without concern-
ing themſelves about what paffes abroad, except
certain Women belonging to the abſent Baſhaws;
and theſe have no Averfion to Strangers; but
their Intrigues are attended with Danger, and
Tenderneſs is fometimes fucceeded with Cruelty.
The Huſbands, that they may have no pretence
for going abroad, have made 'em believe there's
no Paradife for Women; or if there be one,
they may attain it by faying their Prayers at
home. To amufe 'em, they build Baths for 'em,
and treat 'em with Coffee: but notwithſtanding all
this Precaution, a way is often found to introduce
handſom young Fellows, diſguiſed like Female
Slaves, with Toys to fell. The Jewish Women
are dextrous at promoting the Belles Paffions; how-
ever, there is not near fo much intriguing here,
as with us; and moſt of the Turkish Ladies are
obliged to ſtay at home, and buſy themſelves in
Embroidery, for want of better Employment.
The Greek, Jewish, and Armenian Women have
more liberty, but don't go abroad fo often as our
Women, becauſe the Slaves do all that's to be
done without Doors; as going to Market, &c.
Paris would feem far lefs populous, did we not
all the Day long meet in the Streets Women of
all Ages and Conditions.
Many things have contributed to fill Conftanti-
nople with People, beyond the other Cities of Turky:
Traffick; Hopes of rifing at Court, where there
are
771
Greek Women in their Fur gowns.
Pag.3
Jal.I.
gh
Pag .355
Greek Women of Conftantinople
83
Deſcription of Conftantinople.
161
are no People of Quality, and confequently it is
natural for a Man to flatter himſelf, that he may be
advanced for his Merit and Money; the Mifery
that is fuffer'd in the Provinces, where the Bafhaws
have always exercifed grievous Cruelties; laftly,
that prodigious Trade of Slaves, which is incef
fantly carrying on: thefe latter increaſe and mul-
tiply by Marriage, and fwell the number of In-
habitants. In all Ages it feems to have been a
Maxim to bring to Conftantinople powerful Colo-
nies. I fpeak not of the Roman Families, which
Conftantine engaged to fettle there. Glycas affirms,
that that Emperor having confer'd on the Sena-
tors that follow'd him, the command of his Ar-
mies in Perfia, made 'em leave their Rings be-
hind 'em; thefe he fent to their Wives, to ob-
lige 'em to quit Rome, and come away to their
Husbands, and fix themſelves at his Court. Ma-
homet II. having taken Amaftris, belonging to
the Genoefe, on the Coafts of the Black Sea, fent
away almoſt all its Inhabitants to Conftantinople
Ann. 1460. In 1514 Selim having made him-
ſelf maſter of Tauris in Perfia, brought from
thence all the Mechanicks. Barbarofa often tranf-
ported thither the Inhabitants of fuch Iſlands as he
conquer'd in the Archipelago: in 1537 he caus'd
16,000 Prifoners to paſs thither from Corfu. In
the laſt Wars of Hungary, what Shoals of both
Sexes were carry'd away to Conftantinople !
The firſt Walk a Stranger ufually takes in
Conftantinople, is to the Royal Mofques, of which
there are feven fo call'd. Thefe Edifices, which
are very handfom in their kind, are compleatly
finish'd, and kept in perfect good condition;
whereas in France we have fcarce fuch a thing as
a finiſh'd Church: if the Nave is admired for its
Largenefs and Beauty of its Arch-work, the Choir
is imperfect, if thefe two parts are compleat, the
Vol. II.
Frontif
M
162 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
"
Frontispiece is not begun. Moſt of our Churches,
cfpecially in Paris, are hedg'd in with profane
Buildings, and Tradefmens Shops, to make ad-
vantage of every the leaft Spot of Ground; the
Church is often fo chok'd up with Houſes, there's
no Avenue, no Vacancy left; whereas the
Mofques of Conftantinople ftand fingle, within a
fpacious Incloſure, planted with fine Trees, ad-
orn'd with delicate Fountains: they fuffer not a
Dog to enter; no one prefumes to hold difcourfe
there, or do the leaft irreverent Action: they are
well endow'd, and far exceed ours in Riches: tho'
their Architecture is inferior to ours, yet they fail
not to make an impreffion on the Beholder by
their Largenefs and Solidity. In all parts of the
Levant the Domes are well executed; thoſe of
the Moſques are of an exact Proportion, and ac-
company'd with other finaller Domes, which make
'em appear full and comely to the Eye: it is not
fo with their Minarets, which are Spires as high
as any of our Belfries, and as fmall about as a
Nine-pin, in a manner. Theſe Minarets are a
great Ornament to the Mofques, and to the
whole Town: however, tho' we have no Work of
that Boldness among us, our Eyes are form'd to
our Belfries, and our Ears to the Sound of our
Bells, which are more harmonious than the Sing-
ings of the Muefins; fo they term thofe who call
the People to Prayers, in a finging Tone, from
the top of the Minarets.
St. Sophia is the most perfect of all theſe
Mofques its Situation is advantageous, for it
ftands in one of the beſt and fineſt Parts of Con-.
ftantinople, at top of the antient Byzantium, and
of an Eminence that defcends gradually down to
the Sea by the Point of the Seraglio. This
Church, which is certainly the fineſt Structure in
the World next to St. Peter's at Rome, looks to
be
Deſcription of Conftantinople.
163
be very unwieldy without: the Plan is almoſt
fquare, and the Dome, which is the only thing
worth remarking, refts outwardly on four prodi-
gious large Towers, which have been added of
late Years to fupport this vaft Building, and make
it immoveable, in a Country where whole Cities
are often overthrown by Earthquakes.
The Frontispiece has nothing grand, nor an-
fwerable to the Idea Men have of St. Sophia: you
first enter in at a Portico about fix Toifes (Fa-
thom) broad, which in the time of the Greek
Emperors ferv'd for a Veſtibulum. This Portico
communicates with the Church by nine Marble
Folding-doors, the Leaves whereof, which are
Brafs adorn'd with Baffo-relievo's, are extremely
magnificent: on the middlemoft of 'em you fee
fome Figures of Mofaick Work, nay, fome
Paintings too. The Veftibulum is join'd to ano-
ther, which is parallel to it, but has no more
than five brazen Doors without Bas-reliefs: the
Leaves were charg'd with Croffes, but the Turks
have only left the upright Poſt of theſe Croffes,
and have taken away the Croſs-beam of 'em.
You don't enter front-wife into theſe two Veſtibu-
lums, but only at Doors open'd on the fides; and
according to the Rules of the Greek Church,
theſe Veſtibulums were neceffary for the placing
thoſe that were diftinguifh'd either for being a-
bout to receive the Sacraments, or undergo pu-
blick Penance. Parallel to theſe Veftibulums
the Turks have built a great Cloifter, for lodging
the Officers of the Mofque.
[r] A Dome of an admirable ſtructure holds
the place of a Nave: at the Foot of this Dome
runs a Colonnade, which bears a Gallery five
Toiſes broad, the Arch-work whereof is exqui-
[+] Tečnos x) Fóλos, trullus, trulla, hemifpherium, teftudo.
ΣTery[yhoidis Qs. Hefych. A Dome.
M 2
fite.
164 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
fite. In the Interſpaces of the Columns the Pa-
rapet is adorn'd with Croffes in Bas-relief: theſe
the Turks have uſed very ill. By fome it is call'd
Conftantine's Gallery: it was formerly fet apart for
the Women. At the Roof, and on the Corniſh
of the Dome runs a fmall Gallery, or rather a
Balustrade, no broader than juſt for one Perfon
to paſs at a time; and above this there's alſo an-
other: theſe Balustrades make a marvellous figure,
in time of their Ramezan, when they are all ad-
orn'd with Lamps. The Columns of this Dome
have fcarce any belly or fwelling, and their Cha-
piters look'd to be of a fingular Order: the Dome
is eighteen Toifes in the clear (that is, from Wall
to Wall) and reſts upon four huge Pillars, about
eight Toifes thick: the Arch feems a perfect De-
mi-fphere, illuminated with twenty four Windows,
diſpoſed in a Circumference.
From the Eaſt part of this Dome you pafs
ftraight on to the Demi-dome, which terminates
the Edifice [s]. This Dome, or Shell, was the
Sanctuary of the Chriftians, and the great Altar
was placed there. Mahomet II. having conquer'd
this City, went and fat here with his Legs crofs'd
under him after the manner of the Turks; after
faying his Prayers, he caus'd himſelf to be ſhaved,
and then faften'd to one of the Pillars, where was
the Patriarch's Throne, a fine piece of embroi-
der'd Stuff, with Arabick Characters on it, which
had ferv'd as a Skreen in the Moſque of Meca.
Such was the Confecration of St. Sophia! There
is at preſent in this Sanctuary nothing but the
Niche where they keep the Alcoran []: it looks
towards Meca, and the Muſulmen always turn that
way when they fay their Prayers: the Mufti's
[s] The Space between the Dome and the Demi-dome is call'd
Zinea, Kófx, "Apıs, Huíxunλos. [] Maharab. Mi-
rabé. Marabè. Gueblé.
Chair
Description of Conftantinople.
165
Chair is hard by; it is rais'd on ſeveral Steps, and
on the fide of it is a kind of Pulpit, for the Of
ficers to repeat certain Prayers.
This Mofque, built like a Greek Crofs, is in
the clear 42 Toifes long, 38 broad: the Dome
takes up almoſt all this Square. They affured me
there were no fewer than 107 Columns of different
Marble, of Porphyry, or Egyptian Granate: we
had not time to count 'em ourſelves. The whole
Dome is lined or pav'd with Varieties of Marble:
the Incruftations of the Gallery are Mofaick,
moftly done with Cubes or Dice of Glafs, [u]
which are looſen'd every Day from their Cement,
but their Colour is unalterable. Theſe glaſs Dice
are real Doublets, for the variegated Leaf is co-
ver'd with a piece of Glaſs very thin, and glued
on, fo as nothing but hot boiling Water can
make it ſcale off: if ever Mofaicks fhould come
again in faſhion among us, we could eaſily do the
like. Tho' the Application of thefe two pieces of
Glafs, containing the colour'd Plate, be trifling,
yet it proves the Invention of Doublets not to be
new.
The Turks have deftroy'd 'the Noſe and
Eyes of fome Figures, as well as the Faces of four
Cherubims placed in the Angles of the Dome.
This Church is not the first that in Conftanti-
nople bore the Name of [w] St. Sophia : [x] Con-
ftantine the Great was the firft that confecrated a
Chapel there to the Wisdom of the uncreated Word;
but whether that Building was too fmall, or whe-
ther it was fome time after deftroy'd by an Earth-
quake, [] Conftantius his Son caus'd a larger
Church to be built inſtead of the former: the
Sanctuary and the greateft part of this Church
[4] Κατεχρύσωσε τὰ ὄρυφα ἐξ ὑελίνα χρυσό λαμπρόταλα.
Anonym. Defcript. Conftan. [το] Αγία Συρία.
[x] Theophan. Cedren. Glyc, Paul. Diac. 1. 2. Nicephor.
Callift. lib 7. cap. 49.
[] Socrat. lib. z. cap. 16.
Philoftorg. lib. 3. cap. 3. Nicephor. Callift. lib. 9. c. 9.
M 3
were
166
A VOYAGE into the Levant.
were ruin'd in the Reign of [z] Arcadius, when
a Tumult was ſtirr'd up againſt St. John Chry-
foftom, Patriarch of Constantinople; nay, his Par- `
ty [a] is faid to have fet it on fire. It was again
burnt under Honorius, and re-eſtabliſh'd by young
Theodofius; but in the fifth Year of Juftinian St.
Sophia eſcaped not the general Burning, in that
Infurrection [b], wherein Hypatius was made Em-
peror in his own defpite. Juftinian having quell'd
the Sedition, and puniſh'd thoſe that raiſed it,
cauſed the fame year to be built the ftately
[c] Edifice ftill exifting. M. du Cange [d] proves,
that it was finifh'd in five Years, and not ſeven-
teen, as fome Greek Authors have written. The
Emperor was fo highly pleas'd, he burft into an
Exclamation, [e] I have outdone thee, O Solomon!
but in the 32d Year of Juftinian an Earthquake
threw down the Demi-dome, and the Altar was
cruſh'd with its Fall: it was re-edify'd, and the
Church confecrated a-new. Zonaras obferves,
that Juftinian did great Injury to polite Litera-
ture, in applying to this Building the Stipends
that were uſually given the Profeffors in every
Town all over the Empire. Rather than not
gratify his Itch of Building, he melted down the
filver Statue of Theodofius, which Arcadius had
erected, and which weigh'd 7400 Pound. To
cover the Dome of St. Sophia, Juftinian employ'd
the Leaden Pipes, which ferv'd to carry moſt of
the Water for the uſe of the City. The chief
Architects that were concern'd in this famous
Church, [f] were Anthemius of Tralles, and If½-
dorus of Miletus: the firft was efteem'd the greateſt
Mechanift of his time: he was, fome think, no
[*] Socrat. lib. 6. cap. 16. [e] Iwavvuta. [b] Call d
Nina. [c] Manuel. Chryfol. de Edif. Elegant. [d] In
Notis in Bondelm. [ε] Νενίκηκα σε Σαλομών Vici te
Salomon. Codin. de Orig. Conft. [ƒ] Procop. de Edif. Juft.
lib. 2. cap. 3.
Stranger
Defcription of Conftantinople.
167
Stranger to the Art of making Gunpowder; for
Agathias [g] avers, that he would exactly mi-
mick Thunder, Lightning, and Earthquakes.
The Emperor Bafil the Macedonian caus'd the
Weſtern Demi-dome to be ſtrengthen'd: laftly,
this Church was fo damaged by another Earth-
quake under the Emprefs Anne, and John Paleologus
her Son, that it required much Expence of Time
and Treaſure to repair; for which reafon the
Marriage of the Emperor with Helen, Daughter of
Cantacuzenus [b], was folemnized in the Church
of Blaquernes, dedicated to the Holy Virgin.
Mahomet II. was fo pleas'd with St. Sophia, that
he cauſed it to be repaired, and the Turks have
ever fince kept it with the utmoſt Care.
After viſiting St. Sophia, we were carry'd thirty
or forty Paces off, to be fhewn the [] Maufo-
leums of certain Ottoman Princes: they are four
ſmall low Buildings, with Domes cover'd over
with Lead, fupported by Columns hexagonally
placed. The Baluftrades are of Wood, and the
Coffins cover'd with plain Cloth: the Emperors
are diſtinguiſh'd from their Wives only by their
Turbant, which is on a Pillar at the Head of the
Coffin, and this Coffin is fomewhat bigger, as
well as the Torches that burn at each end.
There's no Torch to that of Sultan Mourat's
Brother, tho' there are to every one of the
Grand Signior's Wives. They pointed us to
fome Handkerchiefs like Cravats round the Necks
of certain Figures, in number 120, being Repre-
ſentations of that Emperor's Children, which were
all ftrangled in a Day by his Succeffor's Order.
They have not been fparing of Marble in theſe
Mauſoleums, which are conftantly illuminated
[f] Lib. 5. [b] Cantacuz. lib. 4. cap. 5. Leuncl.
Hift. Muffulm. 582. [i] Turbé.
M 4
Night
168 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
I
7
Night and Day, not only with the Torches
about the Coffins, but many others they have
alfo chain'd thereto feveral Copies of the Alco-
ran, to be peruſed by fuch as refort thither to
pray. Befides thofe who come out of Devotion,
there are here, as alfo in the other Maufoleums,
a Company of poor Alms-people, who have a
Foundation hard by; thefe wear wooden Chaplets,
the Beads whereof are about the fize of a Musket-
ball. I have forgot the Names of the other
Sultans who are in thefe Mauſoleums: I think
they mention'd to us Sultan Selim and Sultan
Mustapha.
Hard by is ſeen an old Tower, faid to have
ferv'd as a Church to the Chriftians: they keep
in it feveral wild Beafts; fuch as Lions, Leo-
pards, Tygers, Linxes, Jackals: theſe laſt are
between a Fox and a Wolf, and in the Night
make a crying like Children pain'd with Gripings.
The other Royal Mofques of Conftantinople may
be reckon❜d fo many Copies of St. Sophia, more
or leſs reſembling this Original. They are Domes.
of a goodly appearance, accompany'd with many
other lefs Domes: the Building always ftands by
itſelf in an Incloſure planted with Trees, adorn'd
with Fountains, Oratories to pray in, and all o-
ther Conveniences neceffary to the Exercife of
the Mahometan Religion. As for the Minarets,
that is, thoſe flender Spires before mention'd,
there's no Royal Mofque without two at leaft;
fome have four, nay fix of 'em.
At the antient Hippodrome (or Running-place
for Horfes) now call'd Almeidan Mofque, each
Minaret has three ftone Galleries. Before you
enter this Mofque, you go through a Periſtyle,
which is a fort of Cloifter arch'd over, and co-
wer'd with little Domes, and fupported by Co-
lumns. The Pavement is of a very beautiful
Marble, as alfo an hexagonal Fountain which is
in
Vol. I.
!
ALynx.
Pag 360
86
Defcription of Conftantinople.
169
1.
in the middle, cover'd 'likewife with a Dome
form'd by Grates of gilded Iron. This Mofque,
and the other Royal Mauſoleums which the Muf-
fulmen have built, are lighted with a great many
more Lamps than St. Sophia; and among the
Lamps of the new Mofque are placed cryftal
Balls, branch'd Candleſticks, Oftrich-eggs, and
fuch like Pieces, to pleafe the Eye. They fhew'd
us a Globe of Glafs, wherein was reprefented in
Bas-relief, with wonderful Patience, the Plan
of the Mofque. The Turbè, or Maufoleum of
Sultan Achmet, is behind this Mofque, Northward.
Of all the Moſques in Conftantinople, there's
none comes near to St. Sophia in the Beauty of
its Dome, but the Solymania, founded by Solyman
II. the moft magnificent of all the Sultans: nay
its Outfide outdoes St. Sophia: its Windows are
larger and better difpofed, its Galleries more re-
gular and ſtately; the whole is built of the fineſt
Stones that could be found among the Ruins of
Chalcedon. The indifpenfable Neceffity the Muf-
fulmen are under of making their Ablutions, ob-
liges 'em to build large Cloifters near the Royal
Mofques: the Fountain is always placed in the
middle, and the Waſhing-places round about.
The Maufoleum of its Founder, and that of
the Sultana his Wife, are behind the Mofque un-
der very rich Domes. Solyman's Coffin is cover'd
with a fine Piece of Embroidery, reprefenting the
Town of Meca, from whence it was brought.
At the head of that Prince's Coffin are two He-
ron's Feathers befet with precious Stones. Here are
conftantly burning feven huge Tapers, and a great
many Lamps; Copies of the Alcoran are chain'd
up
and down in divers places, and Perſons in pay
to read 'em. The Turks think the Dead are re-
lieved by Prayers.
The Validea, fo call'd from Valide its Foundreſs,
Wife of Ibrahim, and Mother of Mahomet IV. is
another
170 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
another fine Edifice placed on the Port near the
Seraglio. The Infide is lined with fine Dutch
Ware, but its Colonnade is of Marble, with
Chapiters after the Turkish way: moſt of the Co-
lumns were fetch'd from the Ruins of Troy: its
Lamps, branch'd Candleſticks, ivory Balls,
cryftal Globes, are very ornamental. The
whole Work feems to be more delicate than the
other Mofques, and has nothing Gothick, tho'
much in the Turkish Taſte. The Arches over
the Doors and Windows are well defign'd its
two Minarets have each three handſom Galleries:
'tis furprizing that the Turks, who don't often
raife fuch Fabricks, fhould find Architects fkilful
enough to build 'em.
The Situation of this Mofque, which is full in
fight of the Seraglio, and in the moſt frequented
part of the Town, makes it to be prefer'd be-
fore all others on publick Rejoicing-days: they
don't content themfelves with crouding with
Lamps the Galleries of its Minarets, but throw
feveral Cords at different heights between one
Spire and another: thefe Cords not only fup-
port the Name and Cypher of the Grand Signior,
reprefented by fmall burning Lamps, but likewife
the Repreſentation of Towns, and the princi-
pal Victories that give occafion to the Feſtival.
In theſe Illuminations every thing glitters: the
very Creſcents are in a blaze. Were the antient
Byzantines to return to Life, they would doubtless
be aſtoniſh'd at the prodigious Dimenfions of
their City, which at this Day extends to the far-
thermoft part of the Haven, whereas in their
time it took up only the Southern Entrance: but
they would not be furprized to ſee the Crefcent,
it being the Symbol of Byzantium. We are told
the reafon of it by [k] Stephens the Geographer,
[k] Steph. Byzant.
a Native
:
Deſcription of Conftantinople.
171
a Native of this City. Philip of Macedon, Father
of Alexander the Great, meeting with mighty
Difficulties in carrying on the Siege of Byzantium,
took the opportunity of a very dark Night to fet
Workmen to undermine the Walls, fo as to make
a Breach for his Troops to enter the Place, with-
out being perceiv'd by the Enemy; but luckily
for the Befieged, the Moon appearing, gave 'em
light into the Defign, and made it mifcarry.
The Inhabitants, in acknowledgment, erected a
Statue to Hecate on the Port; and this place,
which before was call'd Bofphorus, on account of
an Ox's fwimming it over to Afia on a certain
time, went afterwards by the Name of Phospho-
rus, on occafion of [1] Diana the Light-bringer.
'Tis likely, that the Church of St. Photina of To-
pana was built on the Foundation of fome Tem-
ple of the fame Diana. Triftanus [m] has publish'd
the Type of a beautiful Medal of Trajan, on the
Reverfe whereof is a Crefcent furmounted by a
Star; [n] and in the Legend 'tis notify'd, that
the Town was faved by favour of that Crefcent,
or by the help of Diana, whofe Symbol it was.
There are feveral Medals of the fame Type in
the King's Cabinet, in the Name of the [o] By-
zantines, with the Heads of Diana, Trajan, Julia
Domna, Wife of Severus: the Turks have only ad-
opted the Creſcent, which they met with up and
down among the antient Buildings of the City.
Of all the Sultanas that ever meddled with Po-
liticks, Valide, before mention'd, was the moſt fa-
gacious in managing the Affairs of the Porte, and
acquired to herſelf an incredible Authority and
Intereft. She pitch'd upon the moſt advantageous
place of all Conftantinople to diſplay her Magnifi-
[1] Heath Aaμπangócα. [m] Comment. Hift. tom. 1.
[n] BYZANTINH ENT. Byzantina Servatrix. [o] BT-
ΖΑΝΤΙΩΝ.
cence:
172 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
cence before her, no Sultana had the privilege
to erect a Royal Mofque; for as to that of St.
Francis, befides its being no Royal one, the Mo-
ther of Sultan Achmet III. now reigning, only
converted into an ordinary Mofque the Church
of the Italian Francifcans, belonging to the Sub-
urbs of Galata,
A ſmall matter fuffices to maintain an ordinary
Mofque as for the Royal Mofques, the Sultans,
according to their Law, can't build one till they
have obtain❜d fignal Victories over the Enemies of
the Empire; nay, the Charges of building and
endowing them, muft be defray'd out of their
Conquefts: for which reafon, Sultan Achmet
having built a new Mofque againſt the Advice of
the Doctors of the Law, who repreſented to him in
vain, that he having taken no Town nor Caftle,
ought not to undertake fo expenfive a Work,
theſe Doctors gave it the Name of the Mofque or
Temple of an Incredulous.
Thefe Mofques require fuch immenfe Sums for
their Support, that they confume a Third of the
Land-revenue of the Empire. The Kiflar-aga,
or Chief of the black Eunuchs, is the Superin-
tendant of them; 'tis he that difpofes of all the
Ecclefiaftical Offices belonging to the Royal
Mofques, the chief of which are at Conftantinople,
Adrianople, and Prufa. 'Tis affirm'd, that the
Revenue of St. Sophia is 800,000 Livres. The
Grand Signior pays for the Ground on which the
Seraglio is built, 1001 Afpers per Day. Thefe
Revenues are appropriated to keeping up the
Buildings, paying the Salaries of the Officers of
the Mofque, providing Food for the Poor, who
come to the Gate at certain Hours, maintaining
the Hoſpitals that adjoin thereto, educating and
breeding up the Scholars in the Law of Ma-
homet, relieving indigent Tradefinen and Arti-
zans,
Deſcription of Conftantinople.
173
zans, and the like: the reft goes into the Trea-
fury of the Moſque, to anſwer any fudden unfore-
feen Call; fuch as the falling of Houfes, Dama-
ges by Fire, &c. This Treafure, as well as that
of the other Mofques, is kept in the Caſtle of the
Seven Towers, and the Grand Signior can't in
Confcience touch it, but upon urgent Occafions,
when their Religion is at ftake. The Villages,
whoſe Revenues belong to the Royal Moſques,
have large Privileges; their Inhabitants are ex-
empt from quartering Soldiers, and from being
opprefs'd by the Bafhaws, who, when they tra-
vel that way, turn aſide.
In all the other Towns of the Empire each
Houſe pays annually a Quit-rent to theſe Mofques.
[P] The Quit-rents belonging to St. Sophia, arife
from Smyrna, Validea from Rodofto, Sultan Bajazet
from Adrianople; the Mofques of Adrianople enjoy
the Quit-rents of Galata. When the Greeks, Jews,
and Armenians die without Male Iffue, their
Houfes devolve to the Mofque, befides the
Quit-rent it before receiv'd thereout; but among
the Turks, the Brothers and Coufins inherit the
Houſe, and pay only the Quit-rent to the Moſque.
To redeem or buy out thefe Quit-rents, it is per-
mitted to purchafe for the ufe of the Mofque any
Shop or Shops, or any fort of Effects, which may
be an equivalent for the Quit-rent.
The other Royal Mofques are not fo confidera-
ble as thoſe already mention'd: they are call'd
by their Founders Names, Sultan Bajazet, Sultan
Selim, Sultan Mahomet. The Mofque of Ejoup
is not counted a Royal Building, tho' built by
Mahomet II. who caus'd the whole City to be
repair'd, and founded many Colleges. This
Mofque confifts in but one Dome, famous for
nothing but the Ceremony of the crowning the
[] Wacfi or Vacouf.
new
174 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
new Sultan. The Ceremony is not long: they
have nothing to do with Crowns or other Royal
Ornaments. The Emperor afcends a kind of
Roftrum of Marble, and the Mufti girds a Sabre
to his Side, as an Emblem of his being Lord of
the whole Earth; for at this Court all the other
Kings are call'd Sultanons, except the King of
France, to whom they give the Name of Padifcha,
that is, Emperor. The Mofque of Ejoup is at the
Efflux of the freſh Waters: this fame Ejoup is
eſteem'd by the Turks as a great Prophet, as well
as Captain. They don't however deny he was
worſted before Conftantinople, and that he was
kill'd there at the head of an Army of Sara-
cens, whom he commanded. His Sepulchre is
no lefs reforted to than thofe of the Sultans:
there is continual praying at it, which fort of
praying is what a great many People in Turky
get a handfom Livelihood by.
From Ejoup's Mofque we went to fee an
old ruin'd Edifice, called the Palace of Con-
ſtantine; but it has nothing confiderable: it is
a ruinous decay'd thing, about 400 Paces from
the Walls of the City: there are left two Co-
lumns, that bore up a Balcony over the Gate:
the whole looks like fome Gallery, to which
they afcended by a Marble Stair-cafe, fome of
the Steps yet remaining: it is perhaps the refi-
due of fome Houfe built by Conftantine Porphy-
rogenetes, for the Palace of Conftantine the Great
was in the firſt Region of the Town, where
now the Seraglio ftands. Zozimus affures us,
that there was no finer in all Rome: Codinus
calls it [q] the Palace of the Hippodrome.
We afterwards crofs'd the Quarter of Balat,
to go down to the Port, which is one of the
Wonders of the City. The Greek Emperors
[2] Βασιλεία καὶ τὸ παλάτιον τῷ Ἱπποδρόμο. Hift. lib. 2.
ufed
Deſcription of Conftantinople.
175
ufed heretofore to take the diverfion of Hunt-
ing at Balat, which is therefore call'd in vulgar
Greek the Park or the [r] Hunter. Here is
nothing but the [s] Patriarchal Church, that
can engage a Stranger's Attention, and that
more for it's Name than Beauty: it is about
200 Paces from the Port. The Greeks muft
not dare to beſtow any Coft on this Church,
even tho' they were ever fo rich; for the
Turks would not fail to lay Hands on what-
ever Money ſhould be offer'd to be apply'd
that way.
I am, &c.
LET-
[r] Kuungès.
[1] Πατριαρχεῖον.
[176]
LETTER
V.
To Monseigneur the Count de Pontchartrain,
Secretary of State, &c.
MY LORD,
Deſcription T HE Port of Conftantinople can
of Conftanti- never be too much admired.
nople conti- We went round it in a Boat, in very
ferene Weather. Thefe Boats
nued.
are
ſmall Gondolas, exceeding light, and marvel-
louſly neat and pretty: they are in fuch Numbers,
they cover the whole Haven, eſpecially the Paf
fage to Galata. The Antients never put a better
thing into the Oracle's Mouth, than when they
made him give this Anfwer to fome who con-
fulted him about building a Town hereabouts:
Let it be, faid the Oracle, over against the Country
of blind Men. For the Port of Chalcedon, which
is on the oppofite Shore, is fo odd a Place, that
they may well be call'd blind, that firſt pitch'd
on it. The Haven of Conftantinople is a Baſon
ſeven or eight Miles in circuit towards the City,
and as much on the Suburbs fide: its Entrance,
about 600 Paces broad, begins at the Point of
the Seraglio, or the Cape of St. Demetrius, fitu-
ated in the South: it is the [] Cape of Bofphorus,
where ſtood the antient Town of Byzantium.
Thence to the Weft, the Port extends like a
[] crooked Horn, which may more juftly be
compared to that of an Ox than a Stag, as Strabo
has it, for the Coaft has no in and out Turnings
[] Promontorium Chryfoceras.
cap. 11. Bofphorium xguσoxicas.
πος το κέρατος. Cedr. Κέρας
Geogr. lib. 7.
Plin. Hift. Nat. lib. 4.
Solin. cap. 16. [u] Kóλ-
Βυζαντίω. Strab. Rer.
like
Defcription of Conftantinople.
177
like Divifions: it is true, M. Gilles [x] obferves,
there have been many Alterations that have de-
ſtroy'd its antient Form. This Port opens to the
Eaft, and faces Scutari: Galata and Caffun-pacha
are to the North: laftly, it terminates to the
North-north-weſt, where the River Lycus empties
itſelf. This River is made up of two Streams;
the biggeft, on which is the [y] Paper-mill,
comes from Belgrade, the [z] other flows from
the North-weft. The Lycus is not every where
navigable, and therefore there are Stakes to point
out the fureft Places. The Stream that comes
from the North-weft, is not practicable for Boats
farther than the Village of Hali-bei-cui. The
other is deep enough for about four Miles to
go from Pera to Adrianople, you croſs theſe two
Streams over Bridges. [a] Apollonius Thyaneus
perform'd a world of Magick Ceremonies on
thefe Waters. They are of wondrous ufe to cleanſe
the Haven; for defcending from the North-weſt,
they wash all the Coaft of Caffun-pacha and Ga-
lata, while part of the Waters of the Canal of
the Black Sea, which defcend from the North
like a Torrent, as [b] Dion Caffius obferves, daſh
violently againſt the Cape of the Boſphorus, and
recoil to the right towards the Weft: by this
Motion they ſweep away the Mud that might
gather about Conftantinople, and by a Piece of na-
tural Mechanifm fhove it on by degrees as far as
the freſh Waters. Thefe freſh Waters help to
preſerve the Shipping; for Experience fhews, that
they are leſs fubject to be wormeaten in fuch
Ports where there's freſh Water, than where
there's falt: [x] the Fiſh too take greater delight in
[x] De Bofph. Thrac. 1. 1. c. 5. [y] Kiat-ana, Paper-mill:
the Brook is call'd Barbyfes. [] Cydarus Machleva.
[a] Scriptor, poft Theophan. [6] Apud Xiphil.
N
Vol. II.
fuch
178 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
fuch Waters, and are better tafted. The Part
of Conftantinople abounds with Tunny-fifh, call'd
[c] Pelamides by the Antients: we fee them fre-
quently reprefented on the Medals of [d] Byzantium,
with the Heads of the Emperors Caligula, Clau-
dius, Caracalla, Geta, Gordianus, Pius, Gallien,
and the Empreffes Sabina, Lucillia, Crifpina, Ju-
lia Mæfa, and Julia Mamaa. Pliny fays [e], that
under the water towards Chalcedon, there were
white Rocks that ſcared the Tunnies, and forced
'em into the Port of Byzantium: Dolphins too
ſometimes appear there in fuch Numbers, the
Port fwarms with 'em: they are often fish'd for:
their Teeth are like a [f] Saw: but Pliny was
miftaken in the Story of the white Rock above-
mention'd, for the Tunny-fifh go as far as Chal-
cedon, where there are caught great Numbers of
them.
Procopius, in Commendation of the Port of
Conftantinople, fays it is a Thorough Port [g], that
is, you may anchor in any part of it: and 'tis
juſtly obferv'd by him, that the Ships there have
their Prow on Land while the Poop is in the
Water; as if theſe two Elements contended
which fhould be moft ferviceable to the City. In
fhallower Places you go upon a Plank into the
biggeſt Ships; fo there's no occafion for a Cha-
loupe to lade or unlade 'em. Goltzius makes
relation of a Medal of Byzas, Founder of Byzan-
tium, on the Reverſe whereof is a Ship's Prow.
In the King's Cabinet there are two Medals in
the Name of the Byzantines; on one is repreſented
a Ship hoifting fail, on the other a human Fi-
[<] Cordyla appellantur partus, qui foetas redeuntes in ma-
re autumno comitantur. Limofæ vero a luto Pelamides incipi-
unt vocari, & cùm annuum exceffere tempus, hynni. Plin.
Hift. Nat. lib. 9. cap. 15. [d] BYZANTION. [e] Hift.
Nat. ibid. [] `Priftis. [3] Λίμην ἢ ὅλος παραχὴ
asív. De Edif. Juft. lib. 1. cap. 5.
gure
Defcription of Conftantinople.
179
gure with a Pike in its hand, and feeming to
ftand Centry on the Prow of the Ship. By all
which it is plain the Byzantines loved the Sea,
and knew how to improve the Advantages of
their Harbour. I wonder they omitted to grave
on their Medals thofe Gallies with two Helms,
one at the Head, the other at the Stern: there
ufed to be a Steerfman at each, according to
[b] Xiphilin's Defcription. The Gallies of the
Byzantines, at the time when that Emperor be-
fieged their City, went forwards and backwards
in a direct line by means of theſe two Pieces;
and therefore the ufe of two Helms in one Galley
is no new Invention. The Defcription of By-
zantium, and of that famous Siege, is one of the
fineſt things in Antiquity []. The Byzantines fig-
naliz'd themſelves by Land and Sea: [k] their
Divers would not only go and cut the Enemy's
Ships from their Anchors, but would tie Ropes
to 'em under Water, and fo drag 'em wherever
they would; in fuch manner, that the Ships
feem'd to come of their own accord, and fur-
render themſelves. They employ'd the Beams
of their Houſes to build Ships with, and the
Hair of their Wives Heads to make Ropes and
Cordage they would dart into the Enemy's
Trenches the Statues that adorn'd their Town,
and after they had confumed all their Leather,
would feed upon each other.
Would the Turks bend their Thoughts to Na-
vigation, they might make themfelves formi-
dable that way; for they have the beſt Harbours
of any in the Mediterranean: they would be
Mafters of all the Trade to the Eaft, by favour
of their Ports in the Red Sea, which would open
'em a door to the East Indies, China, Japan,
[b] Abridgment of the Life of the Emperor Severus.
[] Xiphilin. [k] Zonar. Hift. lib. 12.
N 2
Places
180 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
Places which the Chriftians can't reach without
doubling the Cape of Good Hope. But the Turks
hug themſelves at home, pleas'd to fee all the
Nations of the World come to them.
Nothing but the Eaft Wind can diſturb the
Port of Conftantinople, it being totally expos'd
thereto whenever it blows hard from that Quar-
ter, eſpecially if it be in the Night, it occafions a
frightful hurly-burly; for the Seamen make fuch
a bawling, and the Dogs fuch a barking, that
one would think the Town was going to be
fwallow'd up, if one were not appriz'd of the
Cauſe of it.
[7] The Seraglio itſelf is not free from this Alarm:
for that Palace is juft at the Mouth of the Port,
and ſtands on the very ſpot of the old Byzantium,
on the Point of the Peninfula of Thrace, exactly
where the Bofphorus is. [m] The Seraglio (the
Workmanſhip of Mahomet II.) is near three
Miles about it is a kind of Triangle, whofe fide
next the City is the biggeft; that next the Bof-
phorus is at the Eaft; and the other, that forms
the Entrance of the Port, is in the North. The
Apartments are on the top of the Hill, and the
Gardens below, ftretching to the Sea. The Walls
of the City, flank'd with their Towers, joining
themſelves to the [n] Point of St. Demetrius,
make the Circumference of this Palace towards
the Sea. As great as the Compaſs of it is, the
Outfide of the Palace has nothing curious to boaſt
of; and if one may judge of the Beauty of its
Gardens by the Cyprefs-trees which are difcern-
able in 'em, they don't much exceed thofe of
private Men. That the Inhabitants of Galata,
[Padifcha-ferai, Palace of the Emperor. Serai fignifies a
Palace, and Padifcha an Emperor. [m] Leuncl. Hift. Mufful.
pag. 591. [2] Serai-bournu, the Point of the Seraglio.
Ακρα χρυσοκέρας.
and
Defcription of Conftantinople.
181
and other Places in that Neighbourhood, may
not fee the Sultanas walking in thefe Gardens,
they are planted with Trees that are always
green.
Tho' I faw only the Outſide of the Seraglio, I
am perfuaded that its Infide can fhew nothing of
what we call ſtately and noble; becauſe the Turks
have hardly any Notion of Magnificence, and
follow no one Rule of good Architecture: if they
have made fine Mofques, it is becauſe they had
a fine Model before their Eyes, the Church of
St. Sophia; a Model, which indeed is not to be
follow'd in the Erection of Palaces. By the
Turkish Pavilions (a larger fort of Building) a Man
may eaſily perceive he is moving from Italy, and
approaching towards Perfia, nay China itſelf.
The Apartments of the Seraglio have been
made at different Times, and according to the
Capriciouſneſs of the Princes and Sultaneffes: thus
is this famed Palace a heap of Houſes cluſtering
together without any manner of Order: no doubt
they are fpacious, commodious, richly furniſh'd.
Their beſt Ornaments are not Pictures, nor Statues;
but Paintings after the Turkish manner, inlaid with
Gold and Azure, diverfify'd with Flowers,
Landfkips, Tail-pieces (fuch as the Printers.
adorn the End of a Book or Chapter with) and
Compartments like Labels, containing Arabian
Sentences, the fame as in the private Houfes of
Conftantinople: Marble Bafons, Bagnios, fpouting
Fountains, are the delight of the Orientals, who
place them over the firft Floor, without fear of
over-preffing the Cieling. This too was the Tafte
of the Saracens and Moors, as appears by their
antient Palaces, eſpecially that of Alhambra at
Granada in Spain, where they ftill fhew, as a Pro-
digy of Architecture, the Pavement of the Lions
Quarter,
N 3
:
182 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
Quarter [], made of Blocks of Marble bigger
than the Tombstones in our Churches.
If there's any thing curious in the Seraglio, 'tis
what the Ambaffadors of foreign Princes have
brought thither; fuch as French and Venice Glafs,
Perfian Carpets, Oriental Vafes. 'Tis faid moſt
of the Pavilions are fupported by Arches, under
which are lodg'd the Officers that ferve the
Sultanas: thefe Ladies dwell over-head, in Apart-
ments commonly terminated by a Dome cover'd
with Lead, or by Spires with gilded Crefcents:
the Balconies, the Galleries, the Cabinets, the
Belvederes, are the moſt agreeable Places of thefe
Apartments.
In fhort, notwithſtanding what
has been faid, take it all together, it is anfwer-
able to the Greatnefs of its Mafter; but to make
a fine Edifice of it, it muſt be pull'd down, and
the Materials employ'd to build another on a
new Model.
The principal Entrance of the Seraglio is a
huge Pavilion, with eight Openings over the
Gate, or Perte. This Porte, from whence the
Ottoman Empire took its Name, is very high,
fimple, femicircular in its Arch, with an Arabian
Infcription beneath the Bend of the Arch, and
two Niches, one on each fide, in the Wall. It
looks rather like a Guard-houſe, than the En-
trance to a Palace of one of the greateſt Princes
of the World; and yet it was Mahomet II. built it.
Fifty Capigis, or Porters, keep this Gate; but they
have generally no Weapon but a Wand or
white Rod. At first you enter into a large Court-
yard, not near fo broad as long; on the right
are Infirmaries for the Sick, on the left Lodges
for the Azancoglans, that is, Perfons employ'd in
the moſt fordid Offices of the Seraglio: here the
Wood is kept, that ferves for Fuel to the Palace:
[] El Quarto de los Leones.
there
:
Deſcription of Conftantinople.
183
there is every year confumed 40,000 Cart-load,
each Load as much as two Buffaloes can
well draw.
Any body may enter the firſt Court of the
Seraglio: here the Domeſticks and Slaves of the
Baſhaws and Agas wait for their Maſters return-
ing, and look after their Horfes; but every thing
is fo ftill, the Motion of a Fly might be heard in
a manner and if any one ſhould prefume to raiſe
his Voice ever fo little, or fhew the leaſt want of
Reſpect to the Manfion-place of their Emperor,
he would inſtantly have the Baftinado by the
Officers that go the rounds; nay,
nay, the very Horf
es feem to know where they are, and no doubt
they are taught to tread fofter here than in the
Streets.
The Infirmaries are for the Sick that belong
to the Houſe: they are carry'd thither in little
clofe Carts drawn by two Men. When the
Court is at Conftantinople, the chief Phyſician and
Surgeon vifit this place every Day, and 'tis affured
they take great care of the Sick: 'tis even faid, that
many who are in this place are well enough, only
they get hither to refresh themſelves, and drink
their Skin-full of Wine: the Ufe of this Liquor,
tho' feverely forbid elſewhere, is tolerated in the
Infirmaries, provided the Eunuch at the Door
does not catch thofe that bring it, in which cafe
the Wine is fpilt on the Ground, and the Bear-
ers fentenced to receive 2 or 300 Baftinadoes.
From the firſt Court you go on to the fecond,
the Entrance whereof is alfo kept by fifty Capigis.
This Court is fquare, about 300 Paces diameter,
but much handſomer than the first: the Path-
ways are paved, and the Alleys well kept; the
reft confifts of very pretty Turf, whofe Verdure
is only interrupted by Fountains which help to
preferve its Freſhnefs. The Grand Signior's Trea-
N 4
fury
184 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
fury and the little Stable are on the left: here
they fhew a Fountain, where formerly they uſed
to cut off the Heads of Bafhaws condemn'd to die.
The Offices and Kitchens are on the right, em-
bellifh'd with Domes, but without Chimneys;
they kindle a Fire in the middle, and the Smoke
goes out through the Holes made in the Domes.
The firſt of theſe Kitchens is for the Grand Sig-
nior, the fecond for the chief Sultanefs, the third
for the other Sultanas, the fourth for the Capi-aga
or Commandant of the Gates; in the fifth they
drefs the Meat for the Minifters of the Divan;
the fixth belongs to the Grand Signior's Pages,
call'd the Ichoglans; the feventh to the Officers of
the Seraglio; the eighth is for the Women and
Maid-fervants; the ninth for all fuch as are obli-
ged to attend the Court of the Divan on Days of
Seffion. They don't provide much Wild-fowl,
but befides 40,000 Beeves ſpent Yearly there, the
Purveyors are to furniſh Daily 200 Muttons, 100
Lambs or Goats, according to the Seaſon, 10
Veals, 200 Hens, 200 pair of Pullets, 100 pair of
Pidgeons, 50 Green-geefe: Victuals enough you'll
fay.
All round the Court runs a low Gallery cover'd
with Lead, and fupported by Columns of Marble:
none but the Grand Signior himſelf enters this
Court on Horſeback, and therefore the little Stable
is in this place, but there's not room for above
thirty Horſes: over-head they keep the Harneſs,
than which nothing can be richer in Jewels and
Embroidery. The great Stable, wherein there
are about a thouſand Horfes for the Officers of
the Grand Signior, is toward the Sea upon the
Bofphorus. Such Days as the foreign Ambaffa-
dors are admitted to Audience, the Janizaries in
very handfom Apparel range themſelves on the
right beneath the Gallery. The Hall where the
Divan
Defcription of Conftantinople.
185
Divan is held, that is, Juftice-hall, is on the left,
at the farther end of this Court: on the right is
a Door, which lets into the infide of the Seraglio:
none paſs through, but fuch as are fent for. The
Hall of the Divan is large, but low, cover'd with
Lead, wainſcoted and gilt after the Moorish man-
ner, plain enough. On the Eftrade is ſpread but
one Carpet for the Officers to fit on: here the
Grand Vifier, affifted by his Counſellors, deter-
mines all Caufes civil and criminal, without Ap-
peal: the Caimacan officiates for him in his ab-
fence, and the Ambaffadors are here entertain'd
the Day of their Audience. Thus far may Stran-
gers go in the Seraglio: a Man's Curiofity might
coft him dear, fhould he proceed farther.
The Outfide of this Palace towards the Port
has nothing worth notice, but the Kiofc or Pavi-
lion right againſt Galata: it is fupported by a do-
zen Pillars of Marble; it is wainſcoted, richly
furniſh'd, and painted after the Perſian manner.
The Grand Signior comes thither fometimes to
divert himſelf with viewing what paffes in the
Port, or to take the pleaſure of the Water when he
has a mind to it. The Pavilion which is toward
the Bofphorus, is higher than that of the Port,
and built on Arches which fupport three Salons
terminated by gilded Domes. The Prince comes
thither to fport with his Women and Mutes. All
thefe Keys are cover'd with Artillery, without
Carriages; moſt of the Cannon are planted level
with the Water: the largeſt Piece is that, which
they fay forc'd Babylon to furrender to Sultan
Mourat, and by way of diſtinction has an A-
partment to itſelf. This Artillery is what the
Mahometans rejoice to hear, for when they are
fired, 'tis to notify that Lent [p] is at an end:
they are likewife fired on publick Rejoicing-days.
[p] Ramezan or Ramazan.
When
186 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
When the Grand Signior is at Conftantinople,
he ſometimes amufes himſelf with obferving from
this Kiofc the ridiculous Ceremonies of the Greeks
on the Transfiguration-day, at a [9] Fountain
hard by. They not only fancy this Water will
cure a Fever, but all other Diftempers prefent
and to come. And therefore they don't content
themſelves with carrying thither their Sick to
drink of the Water, but they bury 'em in the
Sand up to the Chin, and then take them out a-
gain the Moment after: fuch as are well, waſh in
it, and drink of it till it comes out as clear as it
went in. All Greece is full of fuch Fountains, but
they are not mineral; their whole Reputation is
owing to the Peoples Credulity. There's a large
Window near the Source, out of which are
thrown in the Night fuch as have been ftrangled
in the Seraglio; and for every Perſon ſo ſerv'd,
there is a Cannon difcharg'd. The Grand Sig-
nior's Barge-houſes are near thefe Kiofcs, and are
under the care of the Boftangi-bachi: thefe
Barges or Gallies are made ufe of when the
Grand Signior goes to the Seraglio from Scutari.
They are fteer'd by the Boſtangi-bachi, when the
Grand Signior is on board; are very light, and
very neat their Oars are painted and gilded.
Fanari-kiofe is a Pavilion that Solyman II. built at
the foot of the Light-houfe on the Cape of Chal-
cedon: 'tis faid this Pavilion is exceeding fine, and
that its Gardens are better contrived than thoſe of
the Seraglio.
After viewing the Greeks Fountain, we enter'd
the Port, and made towards the Seraglio of Look-
ing-glaffes it is of no large compafs; behind its
Walls is the place [r] where the Turks exerciſe
themſelves in ſhooting with the Bow. Near it is
a kind of Gallery, where the Turks go in Procef-
[9] Aylasua, the holy Fountain. [r] Ocmeidan.
fion,
Deſcription of Conftantinople.
187
fion, to pray for good Succefs in an approaching
Battel; and fometimes to deprecate the Plague,
when it is very raging, that is, when it carries
off 1000 or 1200 in a Day.
While we were ranging about the Port, we
were ſhewn fome Stakes or Pofts ftanding in the
Water, to notify how far the great Ships might
find Anchorage. From hence we proceeded to
the Coaſt of Cajun-pacha, where is the Arfenal
call'd Ters-bana, from the Perfian word Ters Ships,
and Hana a Place to build in. Here are built
the Grand Signior's Ships: we counted 28 fine
ones, from 60 to 100 Guns. There are 120
Houſes arch'd over-head for keeping the Galleys:
the Store-houfes and Work-houſes are under very
good Oeconomy: all here is fubject to the Captain-
bafhaw. The chief Sea-officers are lodg'd here;
and but few Chriftians are ſeen, unleſs it be the
Slaves who are in the Bagno, that is, in one of the
faddeft Priſons in the world. It has three Cha-
pels; one for fuch Chriftians as are of the Greek
Perfuafion, and two for thoſe of the Latin: one
of the latter belongs to the King of France, the
other to the Venetians, Italians, Germans, and
Poles. The Miffionaries confefs there, fay Maſs, ad-
minifter the Sacraments, make Exhortations in
full liberty, paying a ſmall Acknowledgment to
the Commandant of the Bagno, whofe Place is in
the Captain-bafhaw's Gift, who is almoft abfo-
lute in his Office, accountable to none but the
Grand Signior, for which reafon 'tis reckon❜d one
of the beſt Poſts in the Empire.
From the Suburb call'd Caffun-pacha, you crofs
fome Burying places to go to Galata, which is the
handſomeft Suburb of the whole City, and for-
merly made its thirteenth Region [s]. It is built
[+] Συκαὶ ἡ ὀνομάζονται, καὶ ἔσι τεὶς καὶ δέκατον τῆς Κων-
sailivetoneos xxíua. Socrat, I. 11. c. 30.
over
188 AVOYAGE into the Levant.
over againſt the Seraglio, in the [] Fig-tree
Quarter. [u] Juftinian repair'd this Suburb, and
gave it the Name of Juftiniana: 'tis not known
why it was call'd Galata fome time after that Em-
peror's death, unleſs with Tzetzes you'll have it de-
rived from the Galates or Gauls, who crofs'd the
Port about this place. But Codinus's Thought is
more probable: he makes it come from a Gaul,
or Galate, as the Greeks pronounce it, who fettled
himſelf in this Suburb, call'd by the Greeks Ga-
latou, and fince Galata [x]. The Greeks of Con-
ftantinople have a kind of Tradition, that Galata
comes from Gala, which in their Tongue fignifies
Milk: fo this part of the Town was named [y]
the Suburb of Milk, becauſe the Milk-women
lived there.
Galata forms the Entrance of the Port Norther-
ly, and here it was they laid the Chain that bar-
ricado'd it: Xiphilin has not forgot this Chain in
the deſcription he has given, after Dion Caffius, of
the Siege of Byzantium by the Emperor Severus.
Leo Ifaurius, according to Theophanes, took away
this Chain, when the Saracens came before the
Place to befiege it, which made 'em give over
their Deſign; for they were afraid left the Chain,
after they were enter'd the Port, fhould be laid
again, and ſhut 'em in. [z] Michael the Stam-
merer, on the contrary, made ufe of it to hinder
Thomas from coming in. [a] Conftantine Paleolo-
gus, the laft Greek Emperor, oppos'd this Chain to
the Fleet of Mahomet II. nor did that mighty
Conqueror, haughty as he was, dare fo much as
to attempt to cut or force it: he perform'd how-
ever ſomething more extraordinary, for by his
[+] Eunai. Hefych. Miles. [] Procop. lib. 1. de Ædif.
Jult. [*] Φρέριον 7 Γαλάτο. Καςέλλιον το Γαλάτο, and
not Γαλάτων, Theophan. Τ8 Γαλάτε πολίχνιον. Gregoras.
[1] Πολις Γαλατίνη τὸ το Γαλάτε φρόριον. Pachym. Ducas.
Phranz. [x] Zonar. [4] Chalcocond. lib. 8.
Orders
Defcription of Conftantinople.
189
Orders were dragg'd by human Strength ſeventy
Ships, befides Gallies, up the Hill on the Coaft
of Pera, where after he had rigg'd and mann'd
'em, he launch'd 'em into the Port fill'd with
Artillery [a].
Galata is defended by pretty good Walls,
flank'd with old Towers; but thefe Walls have
been beaten down and built again at different
times. Michael Paleologus having maſter'd Con-
ftantinople through the Valour of Strategopule, or
the little General, who obliged Baldwin II. the
laft French Emperor, to retire; gave this Place to
the Genoese, with whom he had made an Alliance:
this was after he had razed its Walls, according
to [b] Pachymerus and [c] Gregoras. [d] The Em-
peror rather chofe to rid himſelf of fuch cunning
Blades as the Genoese, and coop 'em up in this
Quarter, than leave 'em in Conftantinople, from
whence they might peradventure have expell'd
him himſelf. [e] The Donation was made on
the following Terms: 1. When their Podeftat
fhould arrive there, he was by way of Homage
to come and kneel to the Emperor at the Door,
and in the middle of the Audience-chamber,
before he prefumed to kiſs his Feet and Hands.
2. The Genoefe Lords fhould do the fame, when-
ever they came to pay their court to him. 3.
The fame Honours to the Emperor fhould be
paid by the Genoefe Ships, as were accuftom'd to
be done by thofe of the Grecians when they en-
ter'd the Port. The [f] Genoefe, notwithſtanding
thefe advantageous Conditions, were not long e'er
[a] Hinc juxta Galatam ultra collem quemdam monti fimi-
Jem tranfportari L vel LX naves in Liceo curavit, explicatis ve-
lis, ut fi in mari progrederentur. Leuncl. Hift. Muffulm. p 574,
& 576. [6] Pachym. lib. 11. cap. 35. [c] Gregor. L
4. [d] 1261. [e] Pachym. 1. 5. c. 3. Cantacuz. I. I. C. 12.
Codin. [f] Gregor. 1. 5.
they
190 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
they quarrel'd with the new Emperor: the [f]
Venetians themſelves attack'd 'em fmartly under
Andronicus the Old, who fucceeded Michael: all
this obliged them to fortify themſelves with good
Ditches, and build Country-houſes, like ſo many
little Redoubts; but they had the Vexation to fee
'em pull'd down by order of [g] Andronicus the
Younger, from whom they had raviſh'd the Iſle
of Metelin, which put 'em upon theſe Meaſures
of making head againſt the Emperors. In fhort,
during the Troubles of the Empire, they fo well
fortify'd Galata under [b] John Paleologus and Can-
tacuzenus, that it was look'd upon as a Citadel
dangerous to Conftantinople itſelf. The Turks having
attack'd Galata, obliged the Greeks and Tartars
too to fheer off; but at laft the Genoese were
overpower'd, and their Podeftat deliver'd up the
Keys to Mahomet II. the fame Day that Conftanti-
nople was taken [i].
There are ſtill to be feen on the Tower of Ga-
lata fome Coats of Arms, and Infcriptions relating
to fome of that Nation. Theſe forts of Monuments
moulder away of themſelves: the Turks never pull
'em down, unleſs they want Materials for building
Mofques, Bazars, or Bagnios, in which cafe no-
thing can eſcape 'em. Galata is divided into three
Quarters, from Cafun-pacha as far as to Topana:
the Walls and Towers that feparate thefe Quar-
ters, are ſtill in being. The Quarter of Hafap-
capi begins about Cajun-pacha, and ends at the
Moſque of the Arabs, where terminates the Par-
tition-wall that runs from the Tower of Galata to-
wards the South-weft: thence as far as the Cuſtom-
houſe is that Quarter call'd Galata of the Cuſtoms,
[f] Gregor. lib. 6. & 11. Pachym. lib. 9. cap. 5. [g] Gre
gor. 1. 11. [b] Cantacuz. lib. 4. cap. 11.
[i] 1453.
28 June. Chalcocond. lib. 8. Ducas, cap. 39, 42. Phranz. lib.
3. cap. 18.
and
Defcription of Conftantinople.
191
and the Partition-wall reaches to the great Tower
of Galata. Cara-cui is the third Quarter, and
ends at Topana.
The Mofque of the Arabs was a Church of the
Dominicans, as antient as the time of St. Hyacinth,
who procured it to be built, as likewiſe another
Church at Conftantinople. The Moſque of the Arabs
was taken from the Dominicans about a hundred
Years ago, as a Forfeiture, and apply'd to the
ufe of the Mahometan Granadins. There is no al-
teration made in it: the Gothick Windows and In-
fcriptions continue on the Gates; the Belfry,
which is a fquare Tower, ferves for a Minaret.
The Dominicans have alſo a Church at Galata de-
dicated to St. Peter, of which they have been in
poffeffion for above 300 Years. The French Ca-
puchins have had there for above 100 Years a
Church call'd St. George: it belongs to the Ge-
noefe. The Greeks have three Churches in the
Quarter of Cara-cui, and the Armenians one by
the Name of St. Gregory. The Latins poffefs
that of St. Benedict, which in the time of the
Genoefe belong'd to the Benedictines; but it was
given to the Jefuits by the Community of Pera.
The Recolets, or Zocolanti, have a Being at Pera
right againſt the Hofpital of the Fathers of the
Holy Land, whofe fole Bufinefs at Conftantinople is
to take care of the Affairs of the holy Places.
The Cordeliers were Curates at Galata for 400
Years, but their Church is converted to a Mofque,
call'd by the Franks the Mofque of St. Francis,
and by the Turks the Mofque of Valide the prefent
Sultanefs, who has contributed to the rebuilding
of it. The Church was loft purely by the fault
of the Italian Monks, who lived a moft irregular
Life: they fold by retail Wine and Brandy, a
moſt abominable Trade in the eye of a Turk.
They have fondly inferted in the Letters-patent
of
192
A VOYAGE into the Levant.
of its Foundation, That they have converted a Plac
of Scandal and Infamy, into a Houſe of God. The
Cordeliers at prefent are withdrawn to Pera, where
they receive their Parishioners in a Room of their
Houſe, which they have turn'd into a Chapel:
their Superior is Vicar to the Patriarch of Con-
ftantinople, who is ufually a Cardinal.
One taftes in Galata a fmatch of Liberty, not
to be found elſewhere throughout the Ottoman
Empire. Galata is as it were Christendom in Turky:
Taverns are tolerated, and the Turks themſelves
refrain not from 'em, but freely reſort thither to
take a chearful Glafs. The Fifh-market is worth
feeing, and furpaffes that on the other fide the
Port going to St. Sophia: this of Galata is a long
Street, furnish'd on both fides with the fineſt
Fish in the world.
You go up from Galata to Pera, which is as it
were its Suburb, and was formerly confounded un-
der the fame Name. [] Pera is a Greek Word,
fignifying beyond; and the Greeks of Conftantinople,
when they are minded to go beyond the Port,
ftill uſe this word, which has been taken by
Strangers for the whole Quarter. This Quarter,
including Galata and Pera, is call'd [m] Perea by
Nicetas, by Gregoras, by Pachymerus, and plain
Pera by other Authors; but at prefent Pera is
diſtinguiſh'd from Galata, and is precifely no-
thing but the Suburb fituated beyond the Gate of
that Town. The Greeks in like manner call
Paffage-boats Peramidia [n], and the Franks by
Corruption Permes. The Situation of Pera is
perfectly charming: from it you have a View of
the whole Coaft of Afia, and of the Grand
Signior's Seraglio. The Ambaffadors of France,
England, Venice, and Holland have their Palaces
[Пe, trans, ultrà. [π] Περσία. [η] Πέραμα,
Transfretation, Paffage over Sea: wegapudia, Transport-fhip.
in
!
Defcription of Conftantinople.
193
in Pera: the Ambaffador of the King of Hungary
(for under that Title, and no other, the Empe-
ror fends him) thofe of Poland, and of Ragufa,
are lodg'd in Conftantinople. We have already
taken notice of the Palace of France, the Chapel
whereof is ferv'd by Capuchin Fryars, who are
likewife the Teachers of certain young Lads the
King fends thither to learn the Turkiſh, Arabian,
and Greek Languages, that they may afterwards
ferve for Interpreters to the French Confuls in
the Ports of the Levant. The foreign Merchants
have their Houfes and Ware-houſes in Pera, as
well as in Galata, promifcuoufly with the Jews,
Greeks, Armenians, and Turks. There's a Se-
raglio in Pera, where are brought up the Chil
dren of the Tribute, i. e. fuch as have been chofen
out by the Grand Signior's Officers from among
the Greeks in Europe, to ferve about the Perfon of
his Highness after they are made Mufulmen, and
are inſtructed in the neceffary Exerciſes. This
Cuſtom being diſcontinu'd, the Seraglio runs
to decay.
Mezo-
From Pera you go down to Topana, another
Suburb, juſt as you enter the Canal of the Black
Sea: here fuch as have a mind to divert them-
felves on the Water, ufually take Boat. Nothing
is fo agreeable as the Amphitheatre form'd by the
Houfes of Galata, Pera, and Topana, running
from the tops of Hills as far as the Sea. Topana
is fomewhat lefs than either of the other.
morto, who was Captain-bafhaw in 1701, built a
handſom Seraglio here. A hundred Paces from the
Sea ſtands the Arfenal or Foundery for Cannon,
call'd Topana in Turkiſh: it is a Houſe cover'd with
low Domes, and has given its Name to the whole
Quarter. The Turks caft very good Cannon:
they uſe good Stuff, and obferve a juſt Propor-
Vol. II.
Q
tion;
194
A VOYAGE into the Levant.
tion; but their Artillery is as plain as poffible,
without the leaft Ornament.
The Turks are no Draughts-men, they have no
Notion of Drawing, nor ever will, being forbid
by their Religion to defign any manner of Fi-
gures; and without Figures the Tafte can't be
form'd, either in Sculpture or Painting: the Turks
therefore are never the better for thofe Antiquities
they have up and down among 'em. There are
but two Obeliſks and ſome few Columns at Con-
ftantinople, befides fome Bas-reliefs at the Seven
Towers. The Obeliſks are in a place call'd At-
meidan, [o] mention'd before to have been the
antient Hippodrome, or Running-place for Horſes:
the Turks have done little more than tranſlate the
Name of it, for At in Turkish fignifies a Horſe,
and Meidan a Place: it is about 400 Paces long,
and 100 wide.
Every Friday, for the moft part, when Service
is over at the Mofques, the young Turks that pre-
tend to Feats of Activity, get together at this
Place, well drefs'd and handfomly mounted;
where they divide themſelves into two Companies,
at each end one. On giving a Signal, a Horfe-
man ſtarts from each fide, and runs full fpeed with
a long kind of Dart in his Hand: the Excellency
of their Performance confifts in throwing this
Dart and hitting their Adverfary, or in avoiding
the Blow their Motion is inconceivably fwift,
and their Dexterity and Addrefs on horfeback
miraculous.
[p] The Obeliſk of Granate or Thebaick Stone
is ſtill in the Atmeidan: it is a four-corner'd Pyra-
mid, of one fingle Piece, about fifty Foot high,
terminating in a Point, charg'd with Hierogly-
phicks now unintelligible: a Proof however of
its being very antient, and wrought in Egypt.
[o] Codin. & Glycas. [3] Τετράπλευρον μονόλιθον.
By
Defcription of Conſtantinople.
195
By the Greek and Latin Infcriptions at the Baſe
we learn, that the Emperor Theodofius caus'd it to
be ſet up again, after it had lain on the Ground a
confiderable time: the Machines which were made
ufe of in rearing it, are reprefented in Bas-relief.
[q] Nicetas, in the Life of St. Ignatius, Patriarch
of Conftantinople, obferves, that this Obelifk had at
its top [r] a brazen Pine-apple, which was thrown
down by an Earthquake.
Hard by are ſeen the Remains of another Obe-
liſk with four Faces, built with different Pieces of
Marble [s] the tip of it is fallen, and the reſt
can't long continue: this Obeliſk was cover'd
over with brazen Plates, as is apparent from the
Holes made to receive the Pegs that faften'd 'em
to the Marble. Thefe Plates were certainly fet
off with Bas-reliefs and other Ornaments, for the
Inſcription at the bottom ſpeaks of it as a Work
altogether marvellous. Bondelmont, in his Defcrip-
tion of Conftantinople, makes the other Obeliſk to
be 24 Cubits high, and this 58: perhaps it fup-
ported the brazen Column of the three Serpents.
The Infcription tranſlated, is as follows: The Em-
peror Conftantine now reigning, Father of Romanus,
the Glory of the Empire, has made much more won-
derful than it was before, this admirable fquare Pyra-
mid, which Time had deſtroy'd, and which was crouded
with fublime Things; for the incomparable Coloffus was
at Rhodes, and this furprizing Work here.
It is not known what were thefe fublime Things,
nor what relation there was between this Work
and the Coloffus of Rhodes, unless their being
both wonderful in their kind. In fhort, 'tis a
perfect Riddle.
The Column of the three Serpents is no better
known: it is about fifteen Foot high, form'd by
[9] Nicetas Paphlag. [] Xano sesbíniov.
loffus ftructilis.
[s] Co-
O 2
three
196 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
three Serpents turn'd fpirally like a Roll of To-
bacco; their Contours diminish infenfibly from
the Baſe as far as the Necks of the Serpents, and
their Heads ſpreading on the fides like a Tripos,
compoſe a kind of Chapiter. Sultan Mourat is
faid to have broke away the Head of one of 'em:
the Pillar was thrown down, and both the other
Heads taken away in 1700, after the Peace of
Carlowitz. What's become of 'em, no body can
tell; but the reſt has been fet up again, and is a-
mong the Obelisks, at like diftance from each
other. This Column of Brafs is of the very earlieſt,
fuppofing it brought from Delphos, where it ferv'd
to bear up that famous golden Tripod, which the
Greeks after the Battel of Platea found in the
Camp of Mardonius. This Tripos, Herodotus fays
[t], was borne on à brazen three-headed Serpent:
it was confecrated to Apollo, and placed near the
Altar in his Temple of Delphos. Paufanias, Ge-
neral of the Lacedemonians at the Battel of Platea,
was for expreffing this piece of Gratitude to that
God. [u] Paufanias the Grammarian, who was of
Cæfarea in Cappadocia, and who in the fecond Age
publifh'd a fine Deſcription of Greece, takes no-
tice of this fame Tripod: After the Battel of
Platea, fays he, the Greeks made a Preſent to A-
pollo of a golden Tripod ftanding on a brazen
Serpent. It is by no means unlikely this fhould
be it; for befides that Zozimus and Sozomenes
affirm, the Emperor Conftantine caus'd the Delphick
Tripods to be brought thither, Eufebius relates,
that this Tripod fo tranfported, did ſtand on a
Serpent folded ſpirally.
Such as will have thefe Serpents to be Talif
mans, have fome colour for fo thinking, from
the Byzantines praying Apollonius Thyaneus to drive
away the Serpents and Scorpions, as Glycas writes.
[t] Lib. 9. [u] Paufan. Phocaic.
'Twas
Deſcription of Conftantinople.
197
'Twas a common Trade with Appollonius to re-
preſent in Braſs the Figures of fuch Creatures as
he pretended to expel: for the fame Glycas writes
[u], that he erected a brazen Scorpion in Antioch,
in order to deliver that City from Scorpions.
In the Street call'd Adrianople, they fhew'd us
the burnt Column; and well may it be call'd fo,
for 'tis fo black and fmoke-dry'd by the frequent
Fires that have happen'd to the Houfes there-
abouts, 'tis no eafy matter to find out what 'tis
made of. But upon a narrow Inſpection, it ap-
pear'd to be Porphyry Stones, the Junctures hid
with Copper Rings. 'Tis thought Conftantine's
Figure ftood on it. By the Infcription [x] we
learnt, That that admirable Piece of Workmanship
was restored by the most pious Emperor Manuel Com-
nenes. Glycas [y] reports, that towards the Clofe
of the Reign of Nicephorus Botoniates, who was
fhaven and put into a Cloifter, Conftantine's Co-
lumn was ftruck with Thunder, and that this Co-
lumn fupported the Figure of Apollo, then call'd
by that Emperor's Name.
The Column call'd Hiftorical, is not of fo valu-
able Stuff, it being only plain Marble; but 'tis
remarkable for its height, which is 147 Feet;
and for its Bas-reliefs, which are well defign'd for
thoſe Times: 'tis pity the Fire has fo disfigur'd 'em :
they repreſent the Victories of the Emperor Ar-
cadius; the conquer'd Towns appear under the
ſhape of Women, whofe Heads are crown'd with
Towers: the Horfes are finely done; but the
Emperor is fitting in a kind of Elbow-chair, in a
Fur-gown, not unlike a Judge. The Labarum,
or Imperial Standard, is over his Head, held by
two Angels, with the Device of the Chriftian Em-
perors, [] Jefus Chrift is Conqueror. As for
[u] Annal. Glyc. part. 3.
น
[+] Τὸ θεῖον ἔργον, &c.
[5] Annal. part. 1.
[≈] I. X. NIKA,
Q 3
Marcian's
198 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
Marcian's Column, tho' it be of Granate, it is
not much enquired after it does more honour to
Meffieurs Spon and Wheeler, who firſt diſcover'd it,
than to Talianus, who erected it: it may have been
the Urn wherein that Emperor's (Marcianus)
Heart was put. 'Tis fomewhat ſtrange this Co-
lumn eſcaped the Curiofity of M. Gilles, in his
exact Deſcription of Conftantinople: it ſtands in a
private Court-yard, cloſe by the Street call'd A-
drianople, near the Baths of Ibrahim Baſhaw.
After well obferving this Street, the longeſt and
broadeft of any in the City, the next Walk ufu-
ally is the Bazars or Bezeftins, Places like our
Changes for felling fine Wares of all forts. The
old and new Bazar ftand pretty near each other:
they are large fquare Buildings, cover'd with
Domes fupported by Arches and Pilafters. In the
old one there is but little fine Merchandize: [z
it was built in 1461. Here they fell all forts of
Weapons, eſpecially Sabres; and likewife Horſe-
harneſs, ſome of which are enrich'd with Gold,
Silver, and precious Stones. The new Bazar is
repleniſh'd with all manner of Merchandize; and
tho' there's none but Goldfmiths Shops, yet they
fell Furs, Vefts, Carpets, Stuffs of Gold and
Silver, Silk, Goats-hair; nor is it without Jewels
and China Ware. They are now repairing it: it
will be much more lightfom than before: there
will be Apartments for Officers that have the guard
of it, and go their rounds Day and Night. The
Goods are well fecured in thefe Places, the Gates
fhut betimes. The Turks retire to their own
homes in the City, but the Chriftian and Jewish
Merchants crofs the Water, and return the next
Morning.
The Market for Slaves of both Sexes is not far
off: here the poor Wretches fit in a melancholy
[x] Ducas, Hift. Byz. cap. 45.
Poſture.
Defcription of Conftantinople.
199
Poſture. Before they cheapen 'em, they turn 'em
about from this fide to that, furvey 'em from top
to bottom, put 'em to exercife whatever they
have learnt; and this ſeveral times a Day, with-
out ever coming to any Agreement. Such of 'em,
both Men and Women, to whom Dame Nature
has been niggardly of her Charms, are fet apart
for the vileft Services; but fuch Girls as have
Youth and Beauty, paſs their time well enough,
only they often force 'em to turn Mahometans.
The Retailers of this Human Ware are the Jews,
who take good care of their Slaves Education,
that they may fell the better: their choiceft they
keep at home, and there you muft go, if you'd
have better than ordinary; for 'tis here, as 'tis in
Markets for Horfes, the handfomeft don't al-
ways appear, but are kept within Doors. Theſe
Jews teach their beautiful She-flaves to dance,
fing, play on Inftruments, and every thing elſe
that may infpire Love. Sometimes they marry
very advantageouſly, and feel nothing of Slavery:
they have the fame liberty in their Houſes as the
Turkish Women themſelves.
Nothing is ſo pleaſant, as to fee inceffantly
coming from Hungary, Greece, Candia, Ruffia,
Mengrelia, and Georgia, Swarms of young Wenches
defign'd for the Service of the Turks. The Sul-
tans, the Baſhaws, and the greateſt Lords often
chufe their Wives among 'em.
The Women whom Fortune allots to the Sera-
glio, are not always the beft difpos'd of: 'tis
true, a poor Shepherd's Daughter may come to be
a Sultanefs, but then what numbers of 'em are
neglected by the Sultan! After the death of the
Sultan, they are fhut up for the reft of their Days
in the old Seraglio, where they pine themſelves
away, unleſs fome Bafhaw courts 'em. This old
Seraglio, which ftands hard by Sultan Bajazet's
O 4
Mofque,
200 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
'
Mofque, was built by Mahomet II. Here are
confined theſe poor Women, to bewail at leiſure
the Death of a Frince, or that of their Children,
whom the new Sultan often caufes to be ftran-
gled 'twould be a Crime to fhed a Tear in the
Seraglio where the Emperor refides; on the con-
trary, every body ftrives to exprefs their Joy for his
Acceffion to the Throne.
>
The great Square near the Mofque of Sultan
Bajazet, is the place where the Mountebanks and
Jugglers with their Cups and Balls play their
Tricks. We had not time to fee them, nor a
thouſand other things befides. We endeavour'd,
but to no purpofe, to fee the [a] Caftle of the
Seven Towers, lituated at the farther end of the
Town toward the main Land and the Sea of
Marmara. Every body knows this Caftle took
its Name from thofe fame Towers cover'd with
Lead. 'Tis a kind of Baftile or Prifon for Perfons
of Diftinction; but 'tis affured they admit no
Strangers to fee it, fince the Chevalier de Beau-
jeu, who was there confined, found means to e-
fcape. He had made fuch confiderable Captures
on the Turks, that the Grand Signior reveng'd
himfelf on the Head of the Governor, by caufing
it to be ftruck off. The gilded Gate, which was
the moſt confiderable of Conftantinople under the
Greek Emperors, is within this Prifon-wall. In
the time of the Greek Emperors there was at this
Gate a kind of Caftle call'd the [b] Round Castle.
[c] Cantacuzenus, who was Emperor for fome.
time, lets us know that he render'd it almoft im-
pregnable by adding new Fortifications, which
were demoliſh'd by John Paleologus, his Son-in-law,
C
[a] Erlanúgyror, Yedicoulé, feptem Turres, й Azero.85
της χρυσής πέρξης, Επλα Γελάδες [1] Κυκλέβιον και και
séaniov seby judor. Theophan. Cedrer. [] Cantacuz. lib.
4. cap. 40. & 41.
who
Deſcription of Conftantinople.
201
who thruft him into a Monaftery: Bajazet mean
while threatening to befiege the Town, Paleologus
ſtrengthen'd with new Works the gilded Gates;
but ſcarce had they finiſh'd 'em, [d] when Baja-
zet by his Menaces made 'em demolish 'em. If
this Sultan had not had Tamerlane upon his Hands,
he had certainly befieged and taken Conftantinople;
for Paleologus was too weak to hinder it. [e] The
Conqueft of this City was referv'd for Mahomet II.
'twas he that put the Caſtle in the condition 'tis
now in. For fecuring his Treafure, he added
three Towers to thofe that were at the gilded
Gate, and caus'd it to be wall'd in: thefe three
Towers are within the compafs of the City, for
the fide the gilded Gate is of, looks towards the
Country. The Place is pentagonal, but not large,
and has no Ditch on the fide of Conſtantinople.
We had a mighty defire to fee the Bas-reliefs
of this Gate. M. Spon affures us, there are three
principal ones: Phaeton's Fall is reprefented on
the firft; the fecond fhews Hercules dragging
Cerberus; and the third Venus lighted by Cupid's
Torch, furveying the Beauties of an Adonis fleep-
ing: but we prefer'd the March of the Grand
Vifier to all thefe. Such Strangers as cannot make
a long ftay in Conftantinople, would be to blame,
did they neglect to fee this Spectacle: we were
dazled with it. The Ceremony lafted half a Day:
we had a full View of it in the Adrianople Street
at a private Houfe. All the Bafhaws of the
Empire that were then at Conftantinople, accom-
pany'd the Prime Vifier on horfeback, all whofe
Domeſticks were gallantly mounted and richly ha-
bited: the other Vifiers affifted in it with their
Beglerbeys and the Sangiacks, who on fuch Oc-
cafions are obliged to march with all their Officers
[d] Ducas cap. 4, [] Idem, cap. 48. Chalcocondyl.
lib. 10. Leuncl. Pand. Turc. num. 139,
and
202
AVOYAGE into the Levant.
and Domeſticks. The Agas fail not to appear,
nor any Profeffors of the Law, who have bufinefs
with this Lieutenant-general of the Empire: 'tis
indeed a Triumph in reſpect to him. You fee
the fineft Horfes of all the Levant cover'd with
Houfings fweeping along the Ground, [f] em-
broider'd with Gold and Silver fo fubftantially, as
to ferve for many Generations; the other part of
the Harneſs beſet with precious Stones. The Va-
riety of Turbants and Caps is extremely delight-
ful. Sabres, Quivers, Arrows, long Darts, Vefts,
Fur-gowns, &c. exceed all defcription. The only
thing I difliked, was the Officers, inftead of
Piſtols, carrying at their Saddle-bow huge Lea-
ther Bottles [g], pyramidally fhaped, which they
fill with Water every Spring they come at.
Thefe Cavalcades are much more fplendid, you
may well believe, at fuch times as the Sultan is
there in perfon. And yet I can't help thinking
the Kings of France would make a better figure
than what I'm defcribing, would they but order
the whole Royal Family, and all the Lords of
the Court, to attend them, whenever they went
to the Army, or a Progrefs: but every Country
has its Cuſtoms, and the European Princes are not
uſed to travel in fuch State.
Not long after this, the Ambaffador did me
the honour to permit me near him, when he had
Audience of the Grand Vifier, who was under
his Tents four Miles from the Town, on the
Road to Adrianople. Nothing furpriz'd me fo
much as thefe portable Houfes: they are prodi-
giouſly magnificent, rich, large, beautiful; the
Proportions, Defign, Ornaments, every thing is
admirable. His Excellency being in that of the
Vifier, fat down, on a Stool, the Vifier on a So-
pha, his Officers on the right and left, the Jani-
[/] Σúgua, Aurum ductile. [g] Mataras.
zaries
Defcription of Conftantinople.
203
zaries in Rows along the Walls; we, who were of
the Ambaffador's Train, form'd a good thick
Column behind his Stool. A refpectful Silence
was obferv'd throughout; the Druggermans on
both fides did their Duty, and when they had ex-
plain'd their Maſter's Intentions, every body de-
parted without the leaft Ceremony.
I had alſo the honour to accompany Monfieur
the Ambaffador in fome Vifits: he was attended
by thoſe of our Nation, very neatly drefs'd and
well mounted. As we pafs'd by the Tent of
Maurocordato, his Excellency, after the uſual Ci-
vilities, was pleas'd to prefent me to him. Mau-
rocordato is a very ingenious Man, and tho' a
Greek by Nation and Religion, has been promot
ed to the Office of Counſellor of State. He was
born at Scio, and ſtudy'd Phyfick at Padua,
where he took the Degrees of Doctor in that
Faculty he has writ a Treatife of Refpiration
and of the Motion of the Heart. Having much
Genius, and underſtanding Medicine better than
the generality of thoſe who pretend to it in the
Seraglio, he foon was taken notice of. He not
long after laid afide the Practice of Phyfick for
certain Reaſons, and refolv'd to make the moſt of
his Knowledge in Languages, of which he has
attain❜d a great Maſtery. As he is well inform’d
in foreign Affairs, and no ftranger to the Interefts
of the Princes of Europe, he met with a thouſand
Opportunities of fhewing his Capacity, and in a
few Years came to be chief Interpreter to the
Grand Signior. He made himſelf fo neceffary in
the laft War with Germany, that he was appoint-
ed Plenipotentiary at the Peace of Carlowitz; and
that this Character might fit the better on him,
he was made a Counſellor of State. He has a
good ſhare of Wit, and a very promiſing Phy-
fiognomy; and has accordingly attracted the
Confidence
'
204 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
Confidence of the chief Lords of the Court, and
of the Sultan himfelf, on account of his Quali-
fications in Politicks and Medicine. He feem'd
to me to be one that would temporize in the
Practice of that Science; and own'd to me that
hẹ was an Admirer of the Boldness of the Euro-
pean Phyficians, but that he was too old to imi-
tate them, and alter his own Method. I faid,
that in Europe we enter'd into the true Mind of
Hippocrates, and endeavour'd to lay hold of thoſe
precious Moments that offer'd themſelves in acute
Diftempers; that the illuftrious M. Fagon, firſt
Phyſician to the Emperor of France, had happily
taught us to exert our utmoſt Diligence in every
Instance recommended by that famous Greek, in
fuch Cafes as required diſpatch; and that there-
fore we made ufe of Remedies unknown to him,
and all the Greeks that concern'd themſelves in
Medicine; and inftead of that formidable Helle-
bore, Thymelea, and other Purgatives, that are
attended with ugly Accidents, we ferv'd ourfelves
of Caffia and Manna, and Preparations of Anti-
mony, which root out the Caufe of the moſt
dangerous Maladies, without begetting freſh Symp-
toms. How do you manage as to bleeding, afk'd
he? I told him we often practis'd it, both before
and after the Evacuations I had been ſpeaking of,
according as the Cafe requir'd: adding, that it
was a Secret we were indebted to the faid M.
Fagon for, in order to avoid Inflammations that
fometimes fucceed ftrong Purgings. He exprefs'd
himſelf to be fatisfy'd with this Method.
From Medicine we pafs'd to Botany. His Head
running folely upon Politicks, he wonder'd I came
fo far only to hunt for new Plants; and his Sur-
prize increas'd, when I affur'd him that the Royal
Garden at Paris abounded with greater numbers:
for he had never feen any but that of Padua,
where
་
Defcription of Conftantinople.
205
where they won't be at the charge of fuch Enqui-
ries. I added, that in my ordinary Lectures in
-the Royal Garden I once a Year demonftrated a-
bove 3000 Plants in fix Weeks time, exclufive of
fuch as could not then be fhewn, becaufe not in
their feaſon. Theophraftus and Diofcorides, I told
him, would be ſtrangely aſtoniſh'd (were they a-
live again) to behold fuch a prodigious Collection
of Plants, as is to be feen in our Gardens, many
of which they knew nothing of. We came after-
wards to talk about the Greek Tongue: he with a
Smile faid, we were in the wrong to pretend to
teach them how to pronounce it, and that he
fhould be glad to hear my Opinion of that mat-
ter. I refer myſelf intirely to you, cry'd I, ſince
you ſpeak Latin fo well, and have fo carefully
read Cicero. That great Man, you know, had
been at Athens and Rhodes; and it is highly
probable, he pronounc'd the Greek Tongue as
it uſed to be pronounc'd in Greece: why ſhould
he write it Delos and Demofthenes, if the Greeks
pronounc'd it Dilos and Demofthenis? He did not
altogether difapprove this Reflection; then afk'd
me if I had met with many Medals in my Voyage
through the Archipelago: I anfwer'd I had not,
but that I was well enough pleas'd with fome In-
ſcriptions I had feen. After the ufual Civilities,
we parted: he made me promiſe to fee him again
after my Return out of Afia, and made a Tender
of his Service with the utmoft Complaifance.
I thank'd his Excellency for procuring me an
Interview with fo great a Man. I have fince un-
derſtood, that he had like to have loft his Life
in the Alterations that happen'd on the death
of Fefouilla Mufti, who was knock'd on the Head,
dragg'd through the Streets of Adrianople, and
caft into the River. Maurocordato, who was in
his Confidence, found means to conceal himfelf,
and
206 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
and fecure moſt of his Effects. There's nothing
permanent at the Ottoman Porte: it is a Wheel
that's inceffantly turning. The Abbot Michaelis
has writ me from Conftantinople, that Maurocordato
was return'd to Court, as much in efteem as ever.
If we made no Diſcoveries in Conftantinople
with relation to Antiquities, we however met
with fome ſcarce Plants for the Embelliſhment of
the Royal Garden, unknown to all that had tra-
vell'd the Levant before us: the Antients them-
felves have made no mention of what Plants grow
about this great City. Tho' they ftruck Medals [b]
to Bacchus and Geta with huge Bunches of Grapes,
fome of which Medals are in the King's Cabinet;
yet the Wine about Conftantinople is none of the
beſt, nor was ever reckon'd otherwife. This
Country is fertile in fine Plants, but Monfieur
the Marquifs de Ferriol having propos'd to us to
take a Journey to Trebifond, and improve the
opportunity of the Departure of Numan Cuperli,
Bafhaw of Erzeron, who was going thither by
the way of the Black Sea, we thought of nothing
but preparing ourſelves for that Journey. His
Excellency procur'd us the Bafhaw's Protection,
nor was he himſelf diſpleas'd to have ſome Phyſi-
cians in his Company. But before I quit Conftan-
tinople, your Lordſhip will give me leave to fend
you the Deſcriptions of fome rare Plants we met
with at the very Gates of that City.
Borrago Conftantinopolitana, flore reflexo, cæruleo,
calyce veficario. Corol. Inft. Rei Herb. 6.
Its Root is as big as one's little Finger, about
four or five Inches in length, blackish without,
fleſhy, accompany'd with Fibres of the fame co-
lour, which are about half a Foot long, whitiſh
within, fill'd with a clammy Humour. It puts
forth Leaves about half a Foot long, and about
[4] ΒΥΖΑΝΤΙΩΝ.
four
Col. I.
Pag.387,
པ་་སཡས
Burrage of Conftantinople, with
a deep-blue flower, turning back.
the Cup of it like a human bladd
der.
Jol. I.
38
Pag
Symphytum
Conftantinopolitanum
"Borraginis folic
Facie flore albo Coroll
Inst Rei herb. 7.
et
Deſcription of Conftantinople.
207
four or five Inches wide, picked at the Ends, but
at their Baſe divided into two round Ears; theſe
Leaves are fupported on a Pedicule or Stalk feven
or eight Inches long, rounded on the back, hol-
low'd pipe-wife on the other fide, whitish, diftri-
buting itſelf into many thick Nerves, extending
to the very edges; thefe Leaves are befides pale-
green, rough, and ſtudded with ſmall Tumours;
they taſte flat and mucilaginous, as do the Roots.
The Stalk is a Foot high, folid, rough, hairy,
two or three Lines thick, branchy below, gar-
nifh'd with fmall Leaves like the other, but no
more than two Inches long to one and a half
broad. The Flowers grow at the top of the
Branches: they are very fleek, and of a pale-red
colour: each Flower is eight or nine Lines diame-
ter, ſtanding on a Stalk near half an Inch long,
fwelling behind like a Bladder, whitish, and
hardly a Line broad. This Flower, which is a
ſky-blue, is divided into five parts difpos'd like
a Wheel, a Line broad, turning back, obtuſe at
the point: from the middle of the Flower, which
is whitifh, tho' the reft is blue, arife five Chieves
or Threds three Lines long, hairy at their Bafe,
white likewiſe, each charg'd with a blue Apex.
The Cup is cut into five Points, hairy; and from
its Center arifes a Piftile or Pointal fquare, fur-
mounted by a purple Thred, half an Inch long:
this Cup dilates into a Bladder, four or five Lines
diameter, half an Inch long, angulous, briſtling
up with Hairs a Line and a half long: the Piſtile
turns to a Fruit with four Seeds, each of which
bears the figure of a Viper's Head, but are no
more than a Line long, fhining, bright-green at
firſt, afterwards blackiſh.
Symphytum Conftantinopolitanum, borraginis folio
& facie, flore albo. Corol. Inft. Rei Herb.
Its
208 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
Its Root is half a Foot long, five or fix Lines
thick, divided into large Fibres, hairy, whitiſh
within, cover'd with a black Skin, flender, and
as it were chapt. Its Stalks are upwards of a
Foot in height, and about four Lines thick, pale-
green, moderately hairy, full of Juice, as is alfo
the rest of the Plant; hollow, unequally chan-
nel'd, attended with Leaves diforderly placed,
like thofe of Burrage: the undermoft are four
or five Inches long, two Inches and a half broad,
terminating in an Oval, pointed, pale-green, of
a flat mucilaginous tafte like its Root, fuftain'd
by a Stalk about three Lines broad at firſt, gut-
tering on one fide, rounded on the other: theſe
Leaves are ſmall, as they are nearer the main
Stem of the Plant. From their Bofoms fpring
little Bunches of other Leaves, and the Branches
are fubdivided into fmall Sprigs, generally charg'd
with a couple of fmall Leaves, in the midft
whereof are ſome white Flowers, rang'd like a
Scorpion's Tail, and blowing fucceffively one after
another each Flower is a Pipe bending down-
wards, about feven Lines long: half of this
Flower which is out of the Cup, widens itſelf
like a Bell, about three Lines in the Opening,
fhallowly cut on the edges into five points; the
other half of the Flower is inclos'd in the Cup,
and is but a Line diameter. From within the
Cup, where it begins to dilate, ariſe five Leaves,
white, a Line and a half long to a quarter
broad at their Bafe; and from their Junctures or
Bofoms (Arm-pits, the Author calls 'em) ariſe
five Stamina of the fame colour, a Line high,
with Apices: the bottom of the Pipe is perforated
by the Piſtile, which is furmounted by a very fine
Thred about eight Lines long. The Cup is ano-
ther Pipe about four Lines long, hairy, cut into
five parts.
The four Embryos of the Piftile turn
to
گے
Pay. 389
Geranium Orientale Columbinum
Alore maximo, Asphodeli radice
Coroll. Inst. Rei herb.20.
Defcription of Conftantinople.
209
1
to fo many Seeds, form'd like a Viper's Head:
we faw 'em before they were ripe.
All the Meadows about Conftantinople are fill'd
with a beautiful fort of Crain's-beak, which I
have call'd by the Name of Geranium Orientale,
columbinum flore maximo, Afphodeli radice. Corol.
Inft. Rei Herb. 20, for it is found in feveral
other places of the Levant.
Its Root is like a Cluſter of French Turnips, a-
bout two Inches and a half long, fleſhy, brittle,
ftiptick, reddiſh within, brown without, about
three Lines thick, tapering to a point, delicate
and hairy. The Body of this Root, which ge-
nerally lies athwart, and is ligneous when the
Plant is old, produces fome Stalks eight or nine
Inches high, one Line thick, pale-green, hairy;
thoſe towards the bottom of the Plant lying flat
on the Ground, the others rifing up; garnish'd
with Leaves two and two at each Knot, exactly
like thofe of the Crain's-beak call'd Pidgeon's-foot.
They have a Pedicule three Inches long, fine,
hairy. The Flowers grow along the Branches,
and arife out of the Bofoms of the Leaves,
which, as they grow nearer the tip, diminiſh: theſe
Flowers blew one after another, are fuftain'd by
fome Tails ordinarily fork'd, three or four Inches
long each Flower confifts of five Leaves, dif
pos'd in form of a Rofe, half an Inch about,
three Lines broad, round, faint purple. From
their Center grows a Piftile two Lines high, fur-
mounted by a purple Tuft: the Stamina are
white, very fine to feel, and the Apices yellow-
ifh. The Cup confifts of five Leaves four Lines
long, picked, pale-green, ftreak'd, difpos'd like
a Star: the Fruit was not forward enough to be
capable of a defcription.
As we pafs'd through the Herb-market, we
bought two or three Bunches of Berries of the
Vol. II.
P
yellow-
210 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
yellow-fruited ky: they grow as common here as
the ordinary Ivy at Paris, and the Turks ufe them
in Cauteries. The Antients apply'd them to a
nobler purpofe; for Pliny affirms [], that it was
confecrated to Bacchus, and deftin'd to crown the
Poets with. Its Leaves, as that Author obferves,
are of a brighter green than thofe of the common
Ivy [k]. Dalickamp has not well defcribed it: I am
apt to think the two forts differ in nothing but
the Colour of their Fruit. Might not the Seed
of the red-fruited Holm produce Stocks with yellow
Fruit? Has not the fame thing been obferv'd of
the Species of Elder? Time will diſcover, whe-
ther the Ivy we are fpeaking of, is the common
Ivy, only vary'd: this laft is not fcarce about
Conftantinople, and the Stocks which have rais'd
the Seed from the yellow fort in the Royal
Garden, have hitherto been all of 'em like the
Stocks which raife Seed from the black: their
Leaves are corner'd, and one can hardly perceive
any difference. Diofcorides feems to have treated
both Species as a variety of the fame.
I obferv'd the Fruit of the former to be in
large Bunches, two or three Inches Diameter,
compos'd of feveral Berries fpherical, tho' fome-
what angulous, four Lines thick, fomewhat flat
before, and mark'd with a Circle, whence arifes
a Point half a Line high. The Skin, which is
fillamot, inclofes three or four Berries, each two
Lines and a half long, white within, greyifh,
vein'd black, and fet off with fmall rifings with-
out: they have no tafte, and are ſhaped like a
fmall Kidney. The Flesh that covers thefe Ber-
ries is at firft fweetifh, afterwards it feems mu-
cilaginous.
[] Hift. Nat. lib. 16. cap. 34. Diofc. lib. 2. cap. 210. &
noth. 166. [4] Hedera Dionyfios. C. B.
Pliny
Defcription of Conftantinople.
211
Pliny has taken all he fays of this Plant out of
Theophraftus and Diofcorides, who have only given
a confus❜d Account of Ivy: that which they de-
fcribe with white Leaves and white Fruit, I never
faw : it muſt have been in Greece. As for the
Thracian Ivy, mention'd by them, we met with
fome Stocks of it on the Borders of the Black Sea.
No wonder the Bacchantes heretofore made ufe of
the Ivy to adorn their Thyri and Head-dreffes,
fince all Torace is cover'd over with it.
I can't hold from adding to theſe Plants a very
pretty [k] Flower, with which they garnish'd the
Dishes at our Ambaffador's Table: I had before
feen it in Portugal. Its Root confifts of two
Tubercules, flefhy, roundish, dingy white, full
of a clammy infipid Humour: the biggest is
an Inch diameter, the other is as it were wi-
ther'd: both are nothing but hairy Threds. Its
Stalk rifes to about half a Foot, two or three
Lines thick, wrapt in a few Leaves alternately,
the Sheaths whereof lie on one another, and af
terwards dilate themfelves into Leaves like thoſe of
the Fower-de-lys, fhining, fleek, vein'd, pointed,
two or three Inches long to one broad: thoſe
neareſt the Flowers are not by a great deal fo big,
but much more picked. Thefe Flowers form a
Bunch at the Extremity of the Stalk: each
Flower has fix Leaves, five whereof, which are
upright, make a kind of purple Coif, .ſtreak'd;
the three outward ones are near half an Inch long,
the two inward ones are narrower and fhorter, but
very fharp-pointed: the under Leaf is biggeit of
all, and is the Ornament of the Flower; for it
gives it in a manner the figure of a Butterfly that's
upon the wing. This Leaf terminates above in a
fmall Neck furmounted by a deep purple Head;
[] Orchis Orientalis & Lufitanica, flore maximo, Papili-
onem referente. Carol. Int. Rei Herb 30.
P 2
behind
212 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
behind it ends in a Tail or Spur, whitifh, four
Lines long: the reft is like a Ruff about an Inch
broad, curl'd on the edges, above half an Inch
high, white, very prettily ftreak'd with purple
Veins. The Pedicule of the Flower is four Lines
long, to one and a half thick: it twiſts ſpirally,
is pale-green, and at laſt comes to be a Čapfula
like a fmall Lanthorn, half a Foot long to three
Lines broad, confifting of ſtiff Stalks, which ad-
mit as many membranous reddiſh Pannels, whofe
lower Surface is charg'd with a Velvet Band,
which is nothing but a Down of very ſmall Seeds,
like the Sawings of Wood. The Flower is with-
out fmell, and appears towards the end of April:
the whole Plant has a flat clammy taſte.
There are many other fine forts of Orchis at
Conftantinople, but can't be propagated in Gardens,
they delighting in nothing but the Air of the
Fields. 'Tis not fo with the Renunculuffes, which
are perpetually multiplying, and acquiring new
Beauties from the Hands of the Curious. For
fome Years paft the Turks have been careful to
cultivate theſe forts of Flowers. Cara Mustapha,
he who miſcarry'd before Vienna, is faid to have
brought Renunculuffes firft in faſhion. This Vi-
fier, to amufe his Mafter Mahomet IV. who ex-
tremely loved Hunting, Privacy, and Solitude,
infenfibly inſpired him with a Fancy for Flowers;
and underſtanding that the Renunculuffes were
what he was moft pleas'd with, he wrote to all
the Baſhaws throughout the Empire, to fend
him Roots and Seeds of the fineſt forts they could
lay Hands on. The Bafhaws of Candia, Cyprus,
Rhodes, Aleppo, Damafcus outdid all the others in
making their court to him. From thence came
thoſe admirable Species of Renunculuffes, which
are to be ſeen in the fine Gardens of Conftantinople
and Paris. The Seeds which were fent to the
Vifier,
Defcription of Conftantinople.
213
Vifier, and thoſe propagated by private Men, pro-
duced vaft Varieties. The Ambaſſadors prided
themſelves in fending them to their reſpective
Maſters: in Europe they were rectify'd by Cul-
ture. M. Malaval contributed not a little thereto
at Marſeilles: he furniſh'd France with 'em, and
France all foreign Countries. Except Pinks and
July-flowers, we have no fine Flowers but what
originally come from the Levant. A Virtuofo of
Paris, one M. Bachelier, brought from thence in
1615 the firit Indian Cheftnut-tree and double
Anemonies. The Tuberofes, the Hyacinths, Nar-
ciffus, Flower-de-lyffes, came from the fame
Country, but have been rectify'd in our Gardens.
There are Cantons in France very proper for the
multiplication of certain Flowers. They raife in
Normandy double Jonquils, and very beautiful A-
nemonies: the Climate of Toulouze is extremely a-
greeable to thefe forts of Flowers. Now I am
upon the Topick of Anemonies, there goes a
Story of a certain Lawyer, to whom M. Bache-
lier had refus'd to communicate the Seed of theſe
fine Anemonies; which when he could obtain
neither for Friendſhip, nor Money, nor by way of
Truck, a Fancy took him to go and viſit M. Ba-
chelier, with three or four of his Friends who
were in the Plot: he order'd his Lacquey, who
bore the Train of his Gown, to let it drop on
fome Pots that were in fuch an Alley: in theſe
Pots were the Anemonies he wanted, and their
Seed was ready to fall. They walk'd a good
while, and talk'd about the Times: as foon as
they were come to the very Spot of Ground, a
merry Gentleman of the Company began a Story
which engaged the whole Attention of M. Beche-
lier; and at the fame time the Lacquey, who was
no Fool, let fall his Mafter's Train: the Anemo-
ny-feeds having a downy Coat, ftuck to the
P 3
Gown,
214 AVOYAGE into the Levant.
Gown, which the Boy foon gather'd up again,
and the Company went forward. The Virtuofo
took leave of M. Bachelier, and went his ways
home, where he carefully pick'd off the Seeds
which had ftuck to his Robes: he fow'd 'em the
fame Day, and they produced very beautiful
Flowers.
The Garden of the French Palace at Conftanti-
nople is at preſent well kept : it has a Terrace, from
whence may be difcover'd the Plains of Afia, but
there's no need to ftretch the View fo far: the
Ambaffador caufes to be cultivated within his own
Walls the fineſt Orange-trees, Renunculuffes, A-
nemonies, and all fuch Flowers as are beautiful
and agreeable in their Seaſons.
I can't conclude this Letter better, than by a
Relation of what pafs'd at the Audience M. de
Ferriol had of the Grand Vifier, and at that
which was prepared for him at the Grand Sig-
nior's: a Purfon of Quality, who had the ho-
nour to be preſent at it, communicated to me the
following Account.
&C.
The King's Ships the Bizzarre and
Relation of the Afeuré came to anchor in the Port
what happen-
ed at M. de of Conftantinople the eleventh of De-
Ferriol's Au- cember 1699; the fame Day the Am-
dience of the baffador was complimented on his hap-
Prime Vifier,
py Arrival by the Secretaries of the
feveral Ambaffadors, and by Prince
Tekeli. Next Day his Excellence landed, and
ſent his chief Interpreter to the Grand Vifier, to
notify his Arrival. Some Days after, this Mi-
niſter ſent to compliment him by Maurocordato
the Father, Counſellor of State, and chief Inter-
preter to the Porte: the Audience was fix'd for
the 25th of December. That Day being come,
M. de Chateauneuf Caftagnieres, the former Am-
baffador, and M. de Ferriol, departed from the
French
¿
Deſcription of Conſtantinople.
215
French Palace half an Hour after Twelve, M.
de Chateauneuf on the right, and the new Ambaf-
fador on the left, preceded by their Houfhold,
and follow'd by a dozen Gentlemen who had
waited on M. de Ferriol to Conftantinople: all of
the French Nation attended them. The March
was perform'd very orderly to the Sea-fide, where
the two Ambaffadors, who alone rode on Horfe-
back, alighted, and were received by fixty Offi-
cers belonging to the Sea, who embark'd with
all the reft for Conftantinople on Caicks prepared
for them. When the Ambaffadors pafs'd by
the King's Ships, they were faluted with 21 Shot
from each Ship.
The Grand Vifier had fent two Horfes richly
harneſs'd for the Ambafladors, and threefcore for
the Gentlemen, Officers, Guards-marine, and the
Retinue of M. de Ferriol: this Number had not
been fufficient for fo great a Train, but his Ex-
cellence had caus'd to be brought above fifty to
the Port, and all the French Merchants had fent
theirs. The Cavalcade began with fourfcore Ja-
nizaries, whom the Grand Vifier had order'd to
they Key; then follow'd the Domefticks of the
Ambaffadors; thofe of M. de Chateauneuf on the
right, and thofe of M. de Ferriol on the left. M.
de Ferriol's twenty five Footmen were cloth'd in
Liveries trebly laced, the middle gold, the other
filk. Half a dozen Janizaries belonging to M.
de Chateauneuf, and as many to M. de Ferriol,
walk'd with their Caps of Ceremony before the
Druggermans. A dozen Gentlemen, and the
Chancellor of M. de Ferriol, preceded the Am-
baffadors: theſe Gentlemen were fo magnificently
habited, that the Turks confefs'd they never faw
any thing like it. The Chiaoux Bachi, who came
to receive his Excellency, march'd immediately
before the Ambaffadors; and Meffieurs de Cour
P 4
and
216
A VOYAGE into the Levant.
1
and de Broglio, Captains of the King's Ships, fol-
low'd at the head of the Officers and Guard-ma-
rine, who march'd two and two, according to
their Rank. The French Merchants clos'd the
whole, in the fame Order. The Company was fo
numerous, there was hardly room enough for
'em in both Courts of the Vifier; yet was every
thing fo orderly, that when the Ambaffadors en-
ter'd, the Janizaries and the Chiaoux made a
Lane for them to pafs. The twelve Gentlemen,
with M. de Ferriol's Chancellor, were alighted
from their Horſes, to expect the Ambaffadors at
the bottom of the Stair-cafe: they follow'd into
the Audience-chamber, as did alfo the Sea-offi -
Lers. The Ambaffadors took their Seats on low
Stools which were placed on the Sopha, M. de
Chateauneuf on the right, and M. de Ferriol on
the left all the reft ftanding.
The Grand Vifier, with his Cap of Ceremony,
came in as ſoon as the Ambaffadors were placed,
and fat him down at the Corner of the Sopha,
which is the Place of Honour. M. de Chateauneuf
ſpoke first, telling the Vifier, that the King had
chofen M. de Ferriol to fucceed him: then M. de
Ferriol prefented him a Letter from his Majefty,
which he put into the Hands of the chief Chan-
cellor, who was ftanding at the Vifier's Elbow,
together with the chief Officers of the Empire.
M. de Ferriol caus'd that Minifter to be told,
That the King his Mafter had with Pleaſure
heard that his Highnefs had committed the prin-
cipal Affairs of the Empire to a Perſon of his
Understanding; and that he made no doubt, but
he would contribute his utmoſt to maintain the
Union and Correfpondence, which had been fo
long fettled between the two Empires. After
this Compliment, they brought in fome Sweet-
meats, and a couple of Difhes of Coffee for the
Ambaf
Deſcription of Conftantinople.
217
Ambaffadors, and then prefented the Sherbet
and Perfume. The Vifier caus'd M. de Ferriol to
be afk'd how long it was fince he left France :
Maurocordate reported in Latin to M. de Ferriol
what it was the Vifier afk'd him: M. de Ferriol
anſwer'd in the fame Tongue. Then they diſtri
buted very rich Veſts to M. de Ferriol and M. de
Chateauneuf: thofe which were given to the Offi-
cers of their Retinue were worth five or fix Se-
quins apiece. After this Diftribution, the Am-
baffadors rofe from their Seats, and went out of the
Chamber of Audience: they were follow'd in an
orderly manner, and when they got on Horſe-
back, M. de Ferriol took the right, as did his
Houfhold; M. de Chateauneuf put himſelf on the
left with his: the reft of the Train obferv'd the
fame Order as in coming. The Streets were
crouded with Spectators. The Ambaffadors re-
imbark'd, after M. de Ferriol had thank'd the
Lieutenant of the [7] Chiaoux Bachi for accom-
panying him with his Chiaoux. The Ambaffa-
dors Canoe was faluted by the Ships as before;
and when they landed, they proceeded in the
fame Order to their Palace, and took leave of
each other in the firſt Court. Next Day M.
de Ferriol forted his Prefents to be fent on the
Morrow to the Grand Vifier: there was a very
large and richly-ornamented Glafs; a great Pen-
dulum, with the Dial-plate mark'd in the Turkish
manner the reft confifted of Vefts, a dozen
whereof were made of the fineſt Stuffs of Gold
and Silver that are wrought at Lyons, the other
of the fineſt Engliſh Cloth.
The 31st of December the Grand Signior caus'd
the Ambaffador to be acquainted he ſhould have
[The Chiaoux-bachi comes himself to receive Ambafadors,
but in their Return back he deputes his Lieutenant to accompany
them.
Audience
218 AVOYAGE into the Levant.
Audience the fifth of January. M. de Ferriol dif
pos'd himſelf for it, and the Night before fent
to the Seraglio the Prefents defign'd for the
Grand Signior: they are ufually carry'd before
the Ambaffador when he is going into the Au-
dience-room.
The fifth of January, 1700, M. de Ferriol by
break of Day fet out from his Palace, preceded
by his Houfhold, accompany'd by twelve Gentle-
men of his Retinue, and all thofe of the French
Nation. At the Strand he found the two Com-
mandants of the King's Ships, and thirty Offi-
cers or Guards-marine, named by M. Bidaud to
attend him. The Ambaffador embark'd on his
Canoe, and was follow'd by the whole Com-
pany in feveral Caicks. The Chiaoux Bachi
waited for his Excellency on the Wharf towards
Conftantinople, with the Janizaries of the Port,
and fixty of the Grand Signior's Horſes: that
defign'd for the Ambaffador was richly harneſs'd.
The March began by fix Janizaries of his Excel-
lency's Family, as many Valets de Chambre,
twenty five Footmen in Liveries, and half a
dozen Eftafiers in Turkish Habits marching before
and about his Horfe: the Drogmans or Interpret-
ers came after his Domeſticks, and next to them
the twelve Gentlemen. The Chiaoux Bachi,
preceded by his Chiaoux, went immediately be-
fore M. de Ferriol, becauſe when he was about to
take the right Hand, his Excellency bid him go.
to the left, unless he would rather walk befores
which was what he chofe to do. The Ambaffa-
dor was follow'd by the Officers of the Marine,
walking two and two according to their Rank:
all of the French Nation did the like. They
pass'd the firſt Court of the Seraglio on horſeback,
but had notice to diſinount at the Gate of the ſe-
cond. His Excellency alighting from his Horfe,
was
Defcription of Conftantinople.
219
was received by eight Capigis, who led the way
to the Hall of the Divan.
At the Entrance of the fecond Court 4000
Janizaries, who were crouded up to the Wall on
the right, on a fudden fcamper'd away, to go
feize the Pots of Rice which were placed for them
at ſome diſtance off. His Excellence enter'd the
Hall of the Divan at the fame time that the
Grand Vifier did the like by another Door. After
mutual Salutation, he fat him down on the place
that was prepar'd for him, and the Grand Vifier
on a Bench, with three Vifiers at his right Hand,
and the two Cadilefquers at his left. Some Caufes
were firſt heard, and Petitions diſpatch'd; after
which they brought Water to the Ambaffador to
wafh with, as likewife to the Grand Vifier, but in
different Bafons; that prefented to his Excellency
was of Silver, the other Copper. Water was al-
fo carry'd to the Vifiers, Captains of the King's
Ships, and all thoſe that were to dine at the five
Tables fpread in the fame Hall. None but the
Ambaffador eat with the Grand Vifier, the Cap-
tains of Ships with the Vifiers, the two Cadilef
quers eat alone, and fix Perſons named by his Ex-
cellence at two other Tables with the principal
Officers of the Empire. The five Tables were
ferv'd alike with upwards of thirty Diſhes each,
which were brought in one after another, and
taken away again almoft as foon.
Tho' the Turkiſh Diſhes are very different from
ours, his Excellency, in refpect to the place,
neglected not to taſte of every thing: after
Dinner, Water was again brought to wash with.
Maurocordato, the Father, and the Sieur Fonton,
chief Druggerman to the King, ferv'd as Inter-
preters all Dinner-time. There was a grated
Window over the Ambaffador's Table, at which
his Excellency perceiv'd the Grand Signior now
and
220 AVOYAGE into the Levant.
and then taking a look. Orders being now
brought for admitting the Ambaffador: there was
brought into the Hall of the Divan a Looking-glafs,
which his Excellency was to give his Highnefs.
The Glafs was 89 Inches deep to 62 wide: all
the Company were furpriz'd at it, and the Grand
Signior ey'd it through the Grate where he uſually
is during the holding of the Divan. The Look
ing-glass was brought to the Door of the Hall of
Audience, together with a Pendulum far exceed-
ing that prefented to the Grand Vifier, as like-
wife an admirable Piece of Clock-work, which,
befides the Hours and Minutes, exhibited the
Motion of the Moon, the Degrees of Cold and
Heat, and the Variations of the Seafons. More
than this, there were twenty Vefts of very rich
gold Stuffs, and a world of other Vefts made of
the finest English Cloth. The Prefent appear'd fo
magnificent, that the Grand Vifier caus'd the Am-
baffador to be afk'd whether it was the King's or
his own: he reply'd, it was aPrefent from himſelf.
The Grand Vifier wrote to his Highness, to
know if they ſhould introduce the Ambaffador :
the Telkidgi [m], who carry'd the Letter, brought
back the Grand Signior's Anfwer in writing,
which having firft kits'd and mov❜d to his Fore-
head, he caus'd to be read: which done, the pro-
per Officers led his Excellency to a certain place
of the Court, where they diftributed threefcore
and ten Veſts among his Retinue: the Ambaffa-
dor receiv'd him fitting on a Bench cover'd with
fcarlet Cloth. Hitherto every thing was done ac-
cording to the Rules, and his Excellency could
not but be highly delighted with the Honours he
had received; but as they were moving into the
Grand Signior's Apartment, the Chiaoux Bachi,
[] Telkidgi is an Officer that carries the Letters which pa/s
between the Prime Vifier and the Grand Signior.
who
Deſcription of Conftantinople.
221
who was gall'd at the Ambaffador's refufing him
the right Hand in the March, went and inform'd
Maurocordato, who was at his Excellency's Elbow,
that he perceiv'd the Ambaffador had his Sword
on, and that none were fuffer'd to enter the Grand
Signior's Chamber arm'd. Maurocordato was for
conniving at it, the rather for that the Ambaffa-
dor's Sword was cover'd with his [n] Caftan; but
the Chiaoux Bachi threatening to acquaint the
Grand Vifier, he could not avoid fpeaking to his
Excellency, and told him, with fome reluctance,
apparent in his Vifage, that he could not fee the
Grand Signior with any Weapon about him, and
therefore begg❜d he would lay afide his Sword,
which the Chiaoux Bachi had juſt now happen'd
to caft his Eye on. The Ambaffador reply'd,
that in wearing a Sword he did no more than
had been practis'd by M. de Chateauneuf; and that
the Sword being part of a Frenchman's Habili-
ment, nay the chief part, he would not relinquifh
it. This Difpute was carry'd to the Grand Vi-
fier, who was ftill in the Hall: he fent word to
the Ambaffador, that he muft not fee the Grand
Signior with a Weapon about him. His Excel-
lency again quoted the Example of M. de Chateau-
neuf, and faid it did not become him to behold
fo great a Prince as his Highneſs, without having
on every Ornament the French Habit confifts of.
The Conteſt lafted a full Hour, Maurocardato
carrying the Meffages to and fro: at laft the
Grand Vifier propos'd to the Ambaſſador, that if
he would quit his Sword, the Grand Signior
would write a Letter to the King in his excufe.
His Excellency anfwer'd, there needed no Ex-
cufe, for he would not commit the Fault.
Grand Vifier reply'd, he would give an Attefta-
tion, fign'd by himself and all the Grandees of
[] Caftan or Veft.
The
the
222 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
the Empire, by way of Affurance, that no Am-
baffador whatever, for the future, fhould fee the
Grand Signior with Arms about him. The Am-
baffador reply'd, that the Porte might alter its Ce-
remoniale for time to come, and that then it would
be the Affair of his Succeffors, and of all the o-
ther Nations; but that they fhould not begin with
him to take from Ambaffadors the Honours they
were in poffeffion of; and that he having the ho-
nour to be the chief of Chriſtian Ambaffadors, if
he were to give any Rules, it fhould be to enlarge
their Privileges inftead of yielding to have 'em
diminiſh'd. The Grand Vifier caus'd his Excel-
lency to be told, that if he perfifted to keep his
Sword, he muft not fee the Grand Signior, who
was come fifteen Leagues off, on purpoſe to give
him Audience. The Ambaffador made anſwer,
he ſhould count it a very great Misfortune; but as
great a Felicity as it was to fee his Highneſs,
he would not purchaſe it at the price of the King
his Mafter's Glory, nor by proftituting the Cha-
racter he was honour'd with. The Grand Vifier
added, that no Ambaffador ever faw the Grand
Signior with Arms about him. His Excellency
reply'd, that M. de Chateauneuf was a Man of
Honour, and that he would not prefume to im-
poſe on the King his Mafter; that he was furpriz-
ed they fhould pick fuch a Quarrel with him,
but proteſted he would fooner part with his Life
than his Sword. Maurocordato not knowing what
to do, defir'd M. de Ferriol to take counſel of the
French Officers. His Excellency anſwer'd, that
in fuch Things as concern'd the Glory of the
King his Mafter, he was the fole Interpreter of
his Will. Maurocordato went again to the Grand
Vifier, and returning to the Ambaffador, told,
him he would kindle a Fire that would not be
eafily extinguifh'd, and that he would be the
Caufe
Defcription of Conftantinople.
223
Caufe of fome great Misfortune. So much the
worfe for the weakeft, reply'd M. de Ferriol; yet
I fhall not relinquifh my Sword but with my
Life, the Honour of my Character being faften'd
to it. Then the Grand Vifier fent the oldeſt
of the Capigis-bachis to tell the Ambaffador,
that it was attempting an Innovation in the Cere-
moniale, and that they could affure him they
never had ſeen any Ambaſſador take Audience of
the Grand Signior with his Sword on. M. de
Ferriol reply'd, that M. de Chateauneuf was at
leaft as worthy to be believ'd as they. The Ja-
nizary-aga came afterwards with the principal Of
ficers of his Corps, to affure the Ambaffador, that
tho' he was a General Officer of the chief Militia
of the Empire, he never enter'd arm'd into the
Grand Signior's Chamber; no, not the Grand
Vifier himſelf, tho' his Highneſs's Lieutenant.
M. de Ferriol reply'd, that the Grand Vifier and
he were Subjects, and fo the Law was made for
them; but as for himſelf, having the, honour to
repreſent the Perfon of a great Prince, he was not
in the fame ſtate of Dependence. The two Ca-
dilefquers came in their turn, and after them
the Vifiers of three Horfe-tails, and all the Of
ficers of the Porte, to try if they could prevail
on the Ambaffador; but he was immoveable. The
Grand Vifier, who was inform'd of all that paſs'd,
fancy'd he could by Stratagem obtain what he
was not able to compafs by Argument: he there-
fore fent to let the Ambaffador know it was high
time for him to go take his Audience. The Am-
baffador afk'd whether it fhould be with his
Sword on: they anfwer'd, yes. So on he march'd,
and being come to the Door of the Grand Sig-
nior's Apartment, he turn'd his Head to look for
the fifteen Perfons he had named to follow him
into his Highness's Chamber, to pay their Obei-
fance
224 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
ifance according to Cuftom. To his great furprize
he faw but fix: the Chiaoux and Capigis-bachis
had ſtopt the reft at the Door of the great Arch
leading to the Audience-hall. The Ambaffa-
dor then began to fufpect they had fome Deſign
upon him; fo, being determin'd to loſe his Life
in maintenance of what he had faid and done, he
clapt his left Hand on his Sword, holding in his
right the King's Letter to the Grand Signior:
two Capigis-bachis took him under the Arm, as
is the Cuſtom; mean while up comes a third, of
gigantick ftature, who ftooping down laid violent
hold of the Ambaffador's Sword, to force it from
him; but not being able to do it, the Ambaffador
enraged gave him fuch a Salute with his Right-
hand and Knee, that he threw him four Paces off;
and then call'd out to Maurocordato, Is it thus you
violate the Law of Nations? After which, feeing
the Capigi-bachi, whom he had fpurn'd, making
towards him again, he by main force broke from
the two other Capigis-bachis, who ſtill had him
by the Arm; and then half drawing his Sword,
he afk'd Maurocordato aloud, Are we Enemies, or
how? Maurocordato feem'd perfectly aſtoniſh'd,
and had not a Word to fay. M. de Ferriol made
no doubt but things would be carry'd to the laſt
extremity; but in that Moment appear'd at the
Door of the Grand Signior's Apartment, the
Capi-aga, or chief of the white Eunuchs, who
making a Sign with his Hand not to commit
any violence upon the Ambaffador, drew near
him, and faid, that if he would enter without his
Sword, he fhould be welcome; but that if he
perfifted to wear it, he might return back to his
Palace. M. de Ferriol reply'd, he neither could
nor would part with his Sword; and fo went his
ways, leaving his Caftan at the Door, and order'd
all thofe of his Retinue to do the like; which
they
Deſcription of Conftantinople.
225
they did, putting them into the Hands of an Offi-
cer of the Grand Signior's: this paſs'd without
giving any Subject of Complaint.
The Ambaffador being got near the great Gate,
the Grand Vifier fent word to the Sieur Fonton, to
come and take back the Preſents his Excellency
had brought which was accordingly done. M.
de Ferriol believ'd there would be no Ceremony in
his Return; but yet he found the Grand Signior's
Horſes, the Chiaoux, and the Janizaries, who ac-
company'd him to the Sea-fide in the fame Order
as had been obferv'd in going to the Seraglio.
There were infinite Swarms of People in the
Streets and at the Windows, every body being
perfuaded the Ambaffador had taken his Audi-
ence; and when he arrived at the Sea-fide, he
put himſelf into his Canoe, which as it pafs'd by
the King's Ships, was faluted by 42 Cannon-fhot.
M. de Ferriol being return'd to his Palace, caus'd
feveral Tables to be fpread for the King's Of-
ficers, and all of the French Nation, whom he
treated with exceeding Magnificence.
It must not be forgot, that Maurocordato affect-
ed all along to hold in hugger-mugger the Ne-
gociation of the Sword, and therefore talk'd to
M. de Ferriol in Whiſpers; but as it was an Affair
of Ufage and Juſtice, the Ambaffador continual-
ly anſwer'd aloud, to the end that the feveral Fo-
reigners who were preſent out of curioſity, might
hear what pafs'd.
It was known fome Days afterwards, that
the Grand Signior chid the Grand Vifier for
expoſing him to fo difagreeable a Scene; telling
him he might have forefeen it. The laft Action
of the Grand Vifier was generally condemn'd,
for going to circumvent the Ambaffador, and
take his Sword from him by foul Means: the
Turks themfelves could not but cry fhame on it.
Vol. II.
M. de
226 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
M. de Ferriol's Prefence of Mind in all his An-
fwers, and his firm Refolution, were admir'd by
all that were Witneffes thereof.
It may not be amifs here to obferve to our
Merchants, how advantageous it is to 'em, to
have at Conftantinople, in the Perfon of the Am-
baſſador, a natural Judge, and one not to be ap-
peal'd from, in all civil and criminal Cafes that
may happen among 'em.
By the 24th and 43d Articles of a Treaty
made May 26, 1604, between Henry the Great
and Sultan Achmet I. Emperor of the Turks, it
was ftipulated, That the Ambaffadors and Confuls
of our Nation fhould diftribute Juftice to fuch
Merchants and Traders as were his Majeſty's
Subjects, according to their own Laws and Cu-
ftoms, without the Cognizance of any Turkish Of-
ficer whatever. Upon which, as I have been in-
form'd, in 1673 there being a Suit between the
Sieur Fabre and the Sieurs Gleyfe of Marſeilles, it
was determin'd by a definitive Sentence of M. de
Nointel, then Ambaffador at the Porte: but the
Sieurs Gleyfe pretending to get this Decree revers'd
in the Courts of Provence, it was on the contrary
confirm'd by an Arret of Council from above,
dated Sept. 1, 1673, in the following Terms.
EXTRACT of the Registers of the Council
of State.
THE
HE King in Council confirms the Judg
ments pafs'd by the Sieur de Nointel
the 4th of December, 1671, and the 2d and 18th
• of July, 1672. Orders the fame to be exe-
cuted according to their Form and Tenor;
and in confequence, his Majefty has made void
and of no effect the Judgment given by the
Lieutenant
Defcription of Conftantinople.
227
C
A
• Lieutenant of the Admiralty of Marſeilles the
• 12th of November laft, and every thing that
follow'd thereupon; forbidding him to take
any Cognizance of the Difpute between the
faid Gleyfe and Fabre: nor are the faid Gleyſe
to make any farther or other Proceedings on
the faid Account, upon pain of 3000 Livres
Forfeiture, befides Cofts and Damages. Done
in the King's Council of State, held at Brifac
the firſt Day of September, 1673. Collated.
Sign'd COLBERT. Vera Copia, LAUTHIER.'
<
C
I am, MY LORD, &c.
Q2
LETTER
[228]
LETTER VI.
To Monfeigneur the Count de Pontchartrain,
Secretary of State, &c.
MY LORD,
Of the Go-
vernment and
I
F you had not taken a Refolution
to make theſe Papers, I fend you,
Polity of the publick, I fhould be ready to enter-
Turks. tain you with a world of things,
which you know much better than myfelf;
but as you have oblig'd me to communicate to
the Publick an Account of the State of the Le-
vant, I believe you will not be difpleas'd, that I
infert in the Letters I have the Honour to write to
you, feveral things which are not generally known,
or which have receiv'd fome Change fince the laſt
Relations: I fhall alſo endeavour to explain the
true Caufes of thofe Alterations: but it will be
neceffary firft, to lay open, as I may fay, the
Foundations of the Empire of the Turks, and
diſcover the Principles upon which their Govern-
ment is eſtabliſh'd.
Thoſe who do not reflect on the Original of
this Empire, difcern at firſt fight, that the Turkish
Government is extremely fevere, and almoſt ty-
rannical; but if we confider that it began in
War, and that the firſt Ottomans were, from Fa-
ther to Son, the moſt formidable Conquerors of
their Age, we fhall not be furpriz'd, that they
fet no other Limits to their Power, than merely
their Will.
Cou'd it be expected, that Princes, who ow'd
their Greatneſs ſolely to their Arms, ſhould diveſt
themſelves of their Right of Conqueft, in favour
of their Slaves? It is natural for an Empire,
which
Of the Government of the Turks. 229
which is founded in a time of Peace, and the
People of which make choice of a Chief to go-
vern them, to be mild and gentle, and the Au-
thority of it may, in a manner, be divided and
ſhared; but the firſt Sultans owing their Promo-
tion purely to their own Valour, and being full of
Maxims of War, affected to have a blind Obe-
dience, to puniſh with ſeverity, and to keep their
Subjects under an Inability to revolt; and, in a
word, to be ferv'd only by Perfons who ſtood in-
debted to them for their Fortune, and whom
they could advance without Jealoufy, and cruſh
without Injustice.
Thefe Maxims, which have continued among
them for four Centuries, render the Sultan abſo-
lute Maſter of his Empire. In poffeffing the
whole Revenues of it himfelf, he does but enjoy
the Inheritance of his Anceftors; and if he has
an abfolute Power of Life and Death over his
People, he regards them only as the Iffue of his
Forefathers Slaves. His Subjects alfo are fo in-
tirely perfuaded of the fame Opinion, that they
make no Reſiſtance, but fubmit to the firſt Order
which is fent to take away their Life or their
Goods; and by a refin'd piece of Policy it is
infus'd into them in their very Cradle, that this
Excefs of Obedience is rather a Duty of Religion,
than a Maxim of State. Under the Force of
this Prejudice, the prime Officers of the Empire
themſelves conclude it to be the higheſt good For-
tune and Glory to end their Days by the Hand
or Order of their Lord. But the Savages of Ca-
nada are more eafy and compos'd under this
Circumftance than the Turks; for without reading
Epictetus, or the Stoicks, they naturally account
Death a great Good, and deride us, who la-
ment thofe who are appointed to die: they fing
alfo in the middle of the Flames, and the quickeſt
Q 3
Pain
230
A VOYAGE into the Levant.
Pain affects them very little, becauſe they are
fill'd with the Hope of entring upon a happier
Life.
The Grand Signior is ador'd by his Subjects,
and wins them to him by the flighteſt Favours;
for they have no Poffeffions, but what they hold
of him. His Empire extends from the Black Sea
to the Red Sea : he has the better part of Africa,
is Maſter of all Greece, and even to the Frontiers
of Hungary and Poland; and, in fhort, can boaſt,
that his Predeceflors, or their Grand Vifiers, have
befieged the Capital of the Weſtern Empire, and
have left only the Gulph of Venice between their
Dominions and Italy. After this, would any Man
believe there have been Sultans, who have liv'd
only on the Income of the Royal Gardens belong-
ing to the Empire, tho' even at prefent thefe Re-
venues amount but to an indifferent Sum? and
that feveral have liv'd by the Labour of their
own Hands? and that at Adrianople are fhewn the
Tools Sultan Morat us'd in making Arrows,
which he fold for his own Profit in the Sera-
glio? The Courtiers, it is likely, paid dear e-
nough for their Emperor's Work. One is very
far from ſeeing the fame Frugality now-a-days in
a Prince's Palace.
For fear of being furpriz'd in an unguarded
Poſture, the Sultans have provided a Bulwark for
themſelves and their Succeffors, by inftituting a
formidable Militia, which is kept on foot as well
in time of Peace as of War. The Janizaries
and the Spahis balance the Power of the Prince
in fuch a manner, as abfolute as it is, that they
have fometimes had the Infolence to demand his
Head; and they depofe Emperors, and create
new ones more eafily, than the Roman Soldiers
did of old. This is. a Curb upon the Sultans,
and reſtrains their Tyranny.
The
Of the Government of the Turks.
231
The Revenues of the Emperor are partly fix'd,
and partly cafual. The fix'd are the Cuſtoms,
the Capitation impos'd upon the Jews and the
Chriftians, the Excife upon all the Produce of the
Soil, and the annual Tributes which the Cham of
Tartary the Lefs, the Princes of Moldavia and Wal
lachia, the Republick of Ragufa, and one part of
Mengrelia and Ruffia pay in Gold; to which
muſt be added five Millions of Livres return'd
from Egypt: for of twelve Millions furniſh'd by
that ſpacious Kingdom in Sequins coin'd upon the
Spot, the Pay of the Soldiers and Officers con-
fumes four; and three more the Grand Signior
fends to Mecha, for an ufual Prefent, to maintain
the Expences of the Religious Worſhip, and of
filling the Ciſterns of Arabia with Water, which
are on the Road where the Pilgrims paſs.
The Treaſurers of the Provinces receive the
Duties of their feveral Diſtricts, and defray all
the Charges by Affignments from the Port. Theſe
return the Money which is in their Hands, every
three Months to the Treaſurers of the Empire,
who are accountable to the Grand Vifier for what
they receive from the Provinces.
The cafual Revenues of the Grand Signior con-
fift in Inheritances: for, according to the Laws
of the Empire, the Prince is Heir both to great
and ſmall, to whom he hath given Penſions during
their Life; and in like manner to the Soldiers,
if they die without Children. If only Daughters
are left, he receives two Thirds of the Eftate;
not out of the Fiefs, for they belong naturally to
the Prince; but out of the Lands independent of
the Fiefs; as of the Gardens, the Farms, the
Cafh, the Moveables, and of the Slaves, the
Clothes, Horfes, &c. The Relations dare not
offer to alienate any part of the Eftate, for there
are Officers eſtabliſh'd to look after it; and if
Q4
they
232
A VOYAGE into the Levant.
they ſhould attempt it, the whole would be for-
feited to the Sultan.
The Spoils of the great Men of the Porte and
the Baffa's rife to an immenfe Sum, and make it
impoffible to know the Amount of the Grand
Signior's Revenues. Very often he does not ftay
for their dying a natural Death, or give them
time to conceal their Treaſure; but their Gold,
and Silver, and Jewels, and their Heads are car-
ry'd at once to the Seraglio. Nor is the Removal
of the Baffa's only of advantage to the Grand
Signior; but he who fucceeds a difplac'd Baffa,
pays for his Preferment a confiderable Sum. Ali
whom the Sultan gratifies alfo with a Viceroyſhip,
or any Poft of Confequence, are indiſpenſably ob-
lig'd to make him Prefents, not according to
their Riches (for the Perfons advanc'd are fre-
quently taken out of the Seraglio, where they
had no Opportunity of laying up any thing) but
the Prefents muſt be answerable to the Favour
they receive. The Prefent of the Baffa of Cairo
is computed at fifteen hundred thoufand Livres,
without reckoning feven or eight hundred thoufand▸
he muſt diſtribute to them who procur'd him the
Government, and who have Intereft enough to
preſerve him in it: thefe are the chief Sultaneffes,
the Mufti, the Grand Vifier, the Boftangi-
baſhi, &c.
Theſe Sums are not ſuffer'd to lie in the Hands
of the Treaſurers, who might waſte them, or uſe
them to their own Profit; but they are brought
to the Seraglio into the Treaſury Royal, which
is near the Hall of the Divan. It is divided into
four Chambers; the first two of which are taken
up with different Arms, and great Coffers of
Vefts and Furrs, Cuſhions embroider'd, and fet
with Pearls, with pieces of the fineſt Cloth of
England, Holland, and France, and with Velvets,
Brocades
Of the Government of the Turks.
233
Brocades of Gold and Silver, with Bridles and
Saddles cover'd with precious Stones.
In the third Chamber are kept the Jewels of
the Crown, which are of an ineftimable Price.
The Staff which bears the Plume of Feathers, is
adorn'd with the richeſt Stones, and is in the
Form of a Tulip: this is faften'd to the Grand
Signior's Turbant, who wears it there. If the
Sultan defires to fee any of his Jewels, the chief
Treaſurer, accompany'd with 60 Pages belonging
to that Chamber, gives notice to the Key-keeper
to attend at the Treafury-door: and firft the
Treaſurer examines whether the Seal he plac'd the
laſt time upon the Lock, be intire; after which,
he orders the Key-keeper to break it, and open
the Door; and acquaints him, which of the
Jewels it is the Grand Signior demands; and re-
ceiving it, goes away to deliver it to him immedi-
ately. In this Chamber are lodg'd alfo the no-
bleft Harneffes, and the richeft Arms in the
World the Sabres, and Swords, and Poinards
glitter with Diamonds, Rubies, Emeralds, Tur-
quoifes, and Pearls. Theſe feldom lie long here,
but are generally circulated; for in proportion as
the Emperor has given any of them to the Baf-
fa's, he receives others from them, when they die,
or are remov’d.
:
The fourth Chamber is properly the Publick
Treaſury. It is full of ftrong Coffers, arm'd
with Bands of Iron, and fecur'd every one with
two Locks: in thefe are put all the pieces of
Gold and Silver. The Door of the Chamber is
feal'd with the Grand Signior's Signet, who
keeps one of the Keys, and the other is in the
Hands of the Grand Vifier. Before they proceed
to take off the Seal, it is certified very ftrictly,
that it has fuffer'd no Alteration: and this is com-
monly done upon Council-days; at which time
they
234 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
they lock up the new Receipts in the Coffers, and
take out Sums appointed for the Payment of the
Troops, and other Services; after which, the
Grand Vifier applies the Emperor's Signet again.
As to the Gold, that paffes into the Grand
Signior's Privy-treaſury, which is a fubterraneous
Vault, into which no one enters, befides the Prince,
attended by fome Pages of the Treaſury. The
Gold is put into Bags of Leather, containing fif-
teen thousand Sequins apiece, and the Bags are
depofited in ftrong Chefts. When it appears
there is Gold enough in the fourth Chamber to
fill two hundred Bags, the Grand Vifier fignifies
it to his Highneſs, who repairs thither to fee
them remov'd into his Privy-treafury, and to feal
them up himſelf. At that time he ordinarily
makes his Largeffes, both to the Pages who wait
on him in the Privy-treafury, and to the great
Men who follow him to the Door, and ftay be-
hind in the fourth Chamber with the Grand
Vifier.
If the Wars exhauft thefe Sums, or the State
is in a preffing Neceffity, the Treaſures of the
Mofques, which are kept in the Caſtle of the
Seven Towers, are ftill a noble Supply to the
Emperor.
The Moſques are rich, efpecially that which is
call'd the Royal. After the Officers are paid out
of thefe religious Revenues, the Remainder of
the Money is put into that Treaſury, of which
the Grand Signior is the principal Guardian.
This facred Treafure, it is true, cannot be made
uſe of, unleſs for the Defence of their Religion;
but does not fuch an Occafion offer itſelf at every
turn in the Wars with their Neighbours, who are
either Chriftians or fchifmatical Mahometans?
and the Mufti knows not how to difapprove the
applying of this Money to fuch a War.
There
Of the Government of the Turks. 235
There is no Prince who is ferv'd with more
Reſpect than the Sultan. Such a Veneration for
him is infpir'd into thofe who are educated in the
Seraglio, and their Condition requires from them
fo much Fidelity and Devotion to his Perfon, that
he is not only regarded as the Lord of the World,
but even as the Sovereign Arbiter of every Man's
Good and Evil in particular: the Palace therefore
is fill'd only with a Train of Creatures intirely
confecrated to him. They may be divided into
five Claffes; the Eunuchs, the Ichoglans, the Aza-
moglans, the Women, and the Mutes; to whom
may be added the Dwarfs and the Buffoons, who
deferve not to be accounted a diftinct Claſs by
themſelves.
The Eunuchs have the Charge of the whole
Palace, and are in the higheſt Confidence: being
incapable of pleafing the Fair Sex, and difengag'd
from Intrigues of Love, they refign themſelves
wholly to Ambition, and the Care of enriching
their Fortune. They are eaſily diſtinguiſh'd by
their Colour; for fome are black, and others are
white. The white are employ'd in ferving the
Perfon of the Prince, and overfeeing the Educa-
tion of the Children of the Seraglio: the black
are the more unhappy, for they are always fhut
up in the Apartments of the Women. They
are forc'd to ufe a Pipe in making Water, being
depriv'd of the natural Conveyance in their
Infancy for the Sultans were jealous of them,
while the Operation was perform'd in any other
manner; and to cure this extravagant Imagina-
tion, they are cut fmooth clofe to the Belly.
The Operation is not without danger, and cofts
many of them their Lives; but the Eaftern
People and the Africans facrifice every thing to
their Jealoufy. Yet after this barbarous Precau
tion, they ſcarcely fuffer the poor Wretches to
caft
236 AVOYAGE into the Levant.
caft their Eyes upon their Women, and commonly
permit them only to ftand Centinel at the outer
Door of the Chamber.
:
The chief The chief of the white Eunuchs,
of the white who has been handled in his Youth as
Eunuchs.
feverely as the reſt, is the great Ma-
fter of the Seraglio. He has the Inſpection of all
the Pages of the Palace, and all Petitions, which
are to be prefented to the Prince, are deliver'd to
him he is in the Secret of the Cabinet, and com-
mands all the Eunuchs of his own Complexion.
The principal of theſe Eunuchs are, 1. The Great
Chamberlain, who is firft of the Officers of the
Chamber. 2. The Deputy Supervifor of the
Pages Apartments, and other Buildings of the
Palace: he never ftirs out of Conftantinople, and
gives his Orders to others who follow the Grand
Signior abroad. 3. The Privy-treasurer, who
keeps the Jewels of the Crown, and one of the
Keys of the Secret Treaſury, and commands all
the Pages of the Treafury. 4. The Grand Ex-
penditor of the Seraglio, who is alſo Great Ma-
fter of the Wardrobe: it is his Charge to look to
the Sultan's Sweet-meats and Drinks, the Syrups
and Sherbet, and the Counter-poifons or Antidotes,
as the Treacle, Bezoar, and other Drugs: he
takes care alfo of the Grand Signior's Porcelain
and China Ware. The other white Eunuchs are,
Preceptors to the Pages, the firſt Prieſt of the Pa-
lace-mofque, and Overfeer of the Infirmatories.
The chief of the black Eunuchs,
of the black who may be call'd, The Eunuch, by
way of eminence, has the abfolute Com-
mand of the Women's Apartment; and all the
black Eunuchs, who are plac'd there for a Guard,
obey him blindly. He has the Superintendence
of the Royal Mofques of the Empire, and dif-
poſes of all the Offices which belong to them.
The chief
Eunuchs.
The
Of the Government of the Turks.
237
The principal black Eunuchs are, the Eunuch of
the Queen-mother; the Intendant or Governor
of the Princes of the Blood; the Comptroller of
the Queen-mother's Treafury; the Steward of her
Perfumes, Sweet-meats, and Liquors; the two
Chiefs of the great and little Chamber of the
Women; the Head Janitor of their Apartment;
and the two Priefts of the Royal Mofque, whither
the Women refort to Prayers.
The Ichoglans are young Men, bred Ichoglans and
up in the Seraglio, not only to ferve Azamoglans.
about the Prince, but to fill, in time, the firſt
Poſts of the Empire. The Azamoglans are train'd
up there for inferior Employments.
That Honours may not become hereditary or
fucceffive, or any Family be advanc'd, which
may be able to form a confiderable Party, the
Children of the Vifiers and Baffa's are ſo far from
fucceeding their Fathers, that it is ordain'd they
fhall not rife above the Degree of Captain of a
Gally; and if there are Inftances of the contrary,
they are very rare. It is not long fince the Em-
perors employ'd fuch only as had neither Rela-
tions nor Friends in the Seraglio; and out of the
diſtant Provinces were continually fent thither
Numbers of Chriftian Children taken in the War,
or levy'd by way of Tribute in Europe, for thofe
of Afia were exempted. The moſt beautiful and
well-made were chofen, and fuch as appear'd to
have the greateſt Spirit and Senſe. Their Names,
Age, and Country were regiſter'd; and the un-
happy Infants foon forgetting Father and Mother,
Brothers and Sifters, and their Country itſelf, be-
came wholly devoted to the Perfon of the Sultan.
At prefent this Tribute of Children is difconti-
nued; not out of favour to the Greeks, but be-
cauſe the Turks themfelves give Money to the Of-
ficers of the Seraglio to have their own Chil-
dren
238 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
dren admitted there, in profpect of their ar-
riving to the higheſt Places in the Empire. Ac-
cording to the beft of their Capacity, thefe Chil-
dren think of nothing but how to pleaſe thoſe who
have the Care of their Education, in order to
merit the Favour of the Court. The Emperor
frequently makes his Choice of them, according
as they are preſented, or appoints them to be re-
view'd by the Heads of the white Eunuchs, who
are good Phyfiognomifts: the greater part of
them are kept at Conftantinople, but fome, I have
been inform'd, are fent to Adrianople and Prufa
in Afia: the moft graceful continue among the 1-
choglans, and the others are diftributed among
the Azamoglans.
In the first place they are requir❜d to make a
Profeffion of Faith, and are circumcis'd; during
which Operation they repeat, There is no God but
God, and Mahomet is the Meſſenger of God. They
are bred with an exemplary Modefty, and are no
lefs fubmiffive and obedient, than the Novices a-
mong our Religious: they are chaftis'd feverely
for the finalleft Faults by the Eunuchs, who over-
look their Behaviour, and are ftrictly held for
fourteen Years under thefe Preceptors Eyes. In-
ftead of whipping, they receive the Baftinado
upon the Soles of their Feet; which is fo fevere-
ly inflicted for fome Tranfgreffions, that they ex-
pire under the Blows. The Eunuchs are very
cruel, and being vex'd at their own miferable
Condition, diſcharge their Anger upon thoſe who
have not fuffer'd in the fame kind. Thefe unhap-
py Youths therefore are forc'd to bear all their ca-
pricious Humours, and never leave the Seraglio
till their Time is finiſh'd, unleſs they are willing to
quit the Society; and then they lofe their Fortune,
and receive but a trifing Acknowledgment at their
Departure. The Seraglio is perfectly a Repub-
lick,
Of the Government of the Turks. 239
lick, the Members of which have Laws and Cu-
ftoms peculiar to themfelves: both thofe who
command there, and they who obey, have no
Notion of Liberty, and have no Commerce with
the Inhabitants of the City; and the Eunuchs
never ftir out thither, but to execute their Or-
ders. The Sultan himſelf is in a manner a Slave
to the Pleaſures of his Palace: he alone, and
fome of his Miftreffes are heartily merry, the reft
are dull and fad.
The Ichoglans are divided into four
The Ichoglans
Chambers, which are beyond the Hall
of the Divan, on the left fide of the third Court.
The firft, which is call'd the Little Chamber, con-
tains ordinarily 400 Pages, who are all fubfifted
at the Grand Signior's Charge, and receive every
one four or five Afpers a Day for their Pay but
the Education which is given them, is beyond any
Price. Nothing is inculcated to them, but Civi-
lity, Modefty, Politeneſs, Accuracy, and Ho-
neſty; above all, they are taught to keep Silence,
to hold down their Eyes, and fold their Hands
acroſs their Breaft. Befides Maſters to teach them
to read and write, there are ſome whofe Care it
is to inftruct them in their Religion, and eſpecially
to fhew them to fay their Prayers at the ſtated
Hours.
After fix Years Practice, they paſs to the fecond
Chamber, with the fame Pay and the fame Habit,
which is of common Cloth: they continue here
alfo the fame Exercifes, but apply themfelves
more particularly to Languages, and whatever
may improve and brighten their Wit. The
Languages are the Turkish, the Arabian, and the
Perfian. As their Strength comes on, they put
them to draw the Bow, to fhoot, to throw the
Dart, to handle the Pike or the Lance, to mount
on Horſeback, and every thing belonging to the
Art
心
​240 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
Art of Riding; as to dart on Horfeback, to dif
charge their Arrows before or behind, on the
right Hand and on the left. The Grand Signi-
or takes a Pleaſure in feeing them fight on Horfe-
back, and rewards thoſe who fhew the greateſt
Skill. The Pages continue four Years in this
Chamber before they remove to the third.
In that they learn to few, embroider, and
make Arrows; and here they alfo fpend four
Years, in order to become the better qualify'd to
wait on the Sultan. To this end, befides Mufick,
they practiſe Shaving, paring the Nails, folding
Vefts and Turbants, attending in the Baths,
waſhing the Grand Signior's Linen, and keeping
Dogs and Birds.
During theſe fourteen Years of Noviciate, they
never ſpeak to one another but at certain Hours,
and their Difcourfes are modeſt and grave: if they
go to fee one another at any time, it is under the
Eyes of the Eunuchs who follow them continu-
ally. In the Night, not only their Chambers are
illuminated, but the Eyes of thoſe Argus's, who
are inceffantly walking the Round, difcover all
that paffes. Between every fix Beds lies an Eu-
nuch, who erects his Ears at the leaft Noife.
Out of this Chamber are taken the Pages of
the Treaſury, and thoſe who ſerve in the Labo-
ratory, where they prepare the Treacle, the Cor-
dials, and fine Liquors of the Emperor and it
is not till after an Examination of their Abilities
and Senſe, that they are permitted to attend his
Perfon. Thoſe who feem not to have fufficient
Capacity, are fent back with a flight Gratuity,
and are generally entred among the Cavalry,
which is the Fortune of fuch alfo who do not
hold out thro' the whole Probation; for the
infinite Conftraint, and the Blows of the Bat-
toon often caufe them to renounce their Sta-
tion.
Of the Government of the Turks. 241
tion. This third Chamber is reduc'd to about
two hundred Pages, whereas the firſt has four
hundred.
In the fourth there are but forty in Number,
who are well-made, polite, and modeft, and
thoroughly prov'd in the three preceding Claffes:
their Pay is double, and amounts to near nine or
ten Afpers a Day. They are drefs'd in Satin and
Brocade, or Cloth of Gold, and are properly
Gentlemen of the Chamber. They make their
court with the utmoſt Application, and have a
liberty of vifiting all the Officers of the Palace:
but the Prince is their Idol: for they are of a
proper Age for Ambition after Employments and
Honours. There are fome of them who never
leave the Sultan, but when he goes into the A-
partment of the Women; namely, they who
bear his Sabre, his Cloak, his Veffel of Water
to drink, and to make the Ablutions, and he who
carries the Sherbet, and holds the Stirrup when
he mounts on Horſeback or alights. The other
Officers of the Chamber, who are leſs about the
Prince's Perfon, are, the Mafter of the Ward-
robe, the chief Mafter of the Palace, the chief
Barber, he who pares his Nails, and he who takes
care of his Turbant, the Secretary of his Orders,
the Comptroller-general of the Houfhold, and the
Chief Superviſor of the Dogs. All theſe Offi-
cers expect to riſe to the firſt Poſts, and with rea-
fon; for it is natural to recompenſe thoſe whom
we ſee every Moment.
No Method feems better fitted to form ſkilful
and great Men, than the Education which is
given to the Pages of the Seraglio, who pafs, as
one may fay, thro' a courfe of all the Virtues:
nevertheleſs, in fpite of all their Pains, when
they are advanced to great Stations, they appear
to be indeed mere Scholars, who want to be
Vol. II.
R
taught
242 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
taught how to command, after they have learn'd
how to obey. And tho' the Turks imagine God
gives Prudence, and the other neceffary Talents,
to thoſe whom the Sultan raiſes to high Employ-
ments, Experience often teftifies the contrary.
What Capacity can Pages have, who are train'd
up among Eunuchs, who treat them with the
Baftinado for fo long a time? Wou'd it not be
better to promote Youth by degrees, in an Empire
where no regard is had to Birth? Beſides, theſe
Officers pafs, at a ſtep, from a State of the ut-
moft Uneafinefs and Conftraint to fuch an extra-
ordinary Liberty, that it is impoffible they ſhould
not let looſe their Paffions; and yet they are in-
truſted with the Government of the most impor-
tant Provinces. As they have neither Abilities
nor Experience to perform the Duties of their
Charge, they truft to their Deputies, who are
commonly great Robbers, or Spies of the Grand
Vifier, to fend him an Account of their Conduct.
Theſe new Governors are forc'd alſo to paſs thro'
the Hands of the Jews; for as they have nothing
when they come from the Seraglio, they have re-
courfe to thofe Ufurers, who lead them to all
manner of Rapine and Extortion. Befides the
Preſents a new Baffa muft make to the Grand
Signior, the Sultaneffes, and the principal Men of
the Port, he is alfo to provide for his own Living.
The Jews alone are able to advance him the Mo-
ney; and theſe honeſt Pilferers will not furniſh a
Piece, but at Cent. per Cent. This Evil would
not be fo extreme, if they would be content to
receive it again by little and little; but as they
are afraid every Moment the Baffa fhould be
ftrangled or remov'd, they never let a Debt grow
old, and the People muſt be fqueez'd to repay
them.
Yet,
Of the Government of the Turks. 243
Yet, if the Baffa is fuffer'd to remain there fe-
veral Years, it is no Advantage to the Province:
for if he is a Man of Underſtanding, he labours
not only to diſcharge the Debt he contracted at his
receiving the Government, but to raiſe a Fund
fufficient for his Expences; and eſpecially to oblige
his Protectors at Court, without whom, inſtead
of being advanced, he wou'd infallibly be recall'd,
let him behave himſelf as he will. Moreover, the
Jew, or the Chifou, as the Turks call them, ma-
nages his Game all the while; and all the Money
of the Baffa's Houſe, not to fay of the whole
Province, goes through his Hands. The Avarice
of Sultan Morat was truly the Source of all theſe
Diforders: for it was he who introduc'd the Cu-
ftom of receiving Prefents from the great Men
whom he promoted; and thefe, to make them-
felves whole again, practis'd the fame towards
their Inferiors: fince which Time, every thing is
open to the higheſt Bidder. Sultan Solyman alfo,
who had a wonderful Affection to his Sifters and
his Daughters, marry'd them to the chief Off-
cers of the Port, contrary to the Ufage of his
Predeceffors, who beftow'd them on the Gover-
nors of very diftant Provinces. The Hufbands
of thefe Sultaneffes, under their, Ladies Prote-
ction, made it their Buſineſs to get what they could
from every one, to fupply the Expences of their
Conforts. Theſe Diſorders, it is vifible, are able
to ruin the Empire; but the Evil is beyond a
Cure for the Emperor himſelf, the Sultaneffes,
the Favourites, and the great ones of the Port
enrich themſelves wholly by this fort of Means;
and the Inferiors fucceed in no Suit, but by fub-
mitting to their Extortions. It is not furprizing
therefore, that this great Empire ſhould at prefent
be in a kind of Declenfion.
R 2
From
244 AVOYAGE into the Levant.
The Azamo- From the Ichoglans we muſt paſs to
glans. the Azamoglans, for thefe laft are only
the Refuſe of the former. In theſe the Qualities
of the Body are regarded more than thofe of the
Mind. If they happen to want Perfons for this
Service, they purchaſe them from the Tartars of
Tartary the Lefs, who are continually making In-
roads upon their Neighbours to carry off Children.
Thefe Children are bred under the Difcipline of
the White Eunuchs, as well as the Ichoglans. Af-
ter the Circumcifion, and the Profeffion of Faith,
they inſtruct them in Matters of their Religion,
and eſpecially in their Prayer, which is the only
Language, as the Turks fay, with which Men
fpeak to the Lord; and thoſe who are inclin'd,
are taught to read and write. Their Habit is
Cloth of Salonica, blue and very coarſe; and their
Caps are yellow Felt, and fhap'd like a Sugar-
loaf. Their firft Exerciſes are running, wreftling,
leaping, or pitching the Bar; after this, they are
appointed in the Seraglio to be Porters, Gardeners,
Cooks, Butchers, Grooms, Waiters in the Infir-
mitory, Wood-cleavers, Centinels, Footmen, Ar-
chers of the Guard, and Rowers of the Grand
Signior's Gally; and many of them are employ'd
to clean his Arms; others, under the Direction of
the Arabs, take care of his Tents; and fome look
after the Baggage and the Chariots. But what-
ever be their Employment, their Pay is but from
two Afpers a Day, to feven and a half; out of
which they are oblig❜d to fubfift themſelves, for
the Sultan allows them only Cloth and Linen.
They live with a furprizing Oeconomy in their
Chambers. The Janizary Aga reviews them from
time to time, and enters thofe whom he likes a-
mong the Janizaries of the Port. Some of them
become Spahis; but neither thefe nor the others
are lifted, till after their Bodies are thoroughly
harden'd
Of the Government of the Turks. 245
harden'd to Labour, and are able to endure all
the Fatigues of War, by being accuſtom❜d to
bear Cold and Heat, to cleave Wood, carry
Burdens, and cultivate the Ground; and, in a
word, to execute the loweſt and moſt painful
Drudgeries: a great many are fent into Afia a-
mong the Peaſants, to learn Agriculture.
Thoſe who remain in the Seraglio, are lodg'd
by the Sea-fide under Sheds: the principal of
them are the Boftangi's, or Gardeners, the Chief
of whom is chofen out of thefe, and is call'd the
Boftangi-bachi: he is one of the most powerful Of-
ficers of the Port, tho' his Place, at firft view,
feems not of the higheſt Honour; but as he has
the Prince's Ear, and waits upon him often in his
Gardens, it is in his power to do good Offices or
ill; and on that account he is courted by the firſt
Men in the Empire. Beſides his Apartment by
the Sea, the Boftangi-bachi has a fine Kiofc upon
the Bofphorus: he is Superintendant of the Grand
Signior's Gardens and Fountains, and Governor
of all the Villages along the Channel of the Black
Sea: he commands above ten thoufand Boftangi's
or Gardeners, who are in the Seraglio, or in the
Royal Houſes about Conftantinople: he has the
Charge of that Quarter of the Bosphorus, where
the Franks inhabit; and puniſhes feverely the Muf-
fulmen and the Chriftians who are drunk, or
caught in the Company of Women: but the
moſt honourable part of his Function is, to hold
the Helm of the Sultan's Barge, when he diverts
himſelf upon the Water, and to ferve him with
his Back, inftead of a Footftool, as he mounts
his Horſe, or alights, when he rides a Hunting,
or to take the Air.
Every Friday the Head-gardeners give an Ac-
count to the Boftangi-bachi of the Money ariſen by
the Fruits of the Grand Signior's Kitchen-gardens:
R 3
this
246 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
this Money is properly the Prince's Patrimony, for
it is appointed for his Table. The Sultan often
takes a pleaſure in feeing the Gardeners work,
but this is when he is alone; for if he is accom-
panied with any of the Sultaneffes, thofe poor
Drudges vaniſh in an inftant, or lie as cloſe to the
Ground as they are able: it would be a Crime
beyond Remiffion in them, to be ſeen at fuch a
time; and the wretched Boftangi thus taken, would
be put to death upon the Spot. The Honour of
appearing in the Prefence of the Women is grant-
ed to none but the Black Eunuchs, who are capa-
ble of giving neither Temptation nor Jealouſy,
It is faid at Conftantinople, that Renunculus's are
the chief Ornament of the Flower-gardens of the
Seraglio; but there are very few of thefe Flower-
gardens, in compariſon of the Number of Kitch-
en-gardens and Orchards, in which almoft all the
floping and low Ground of the Palace is laid out.
The Orchards are over-run with Cyprefs-trees,
and Pines, and Brambles; but it is natural in the
Turks to neglect their Gardens, or at leaſt to take
care only of their Melons and Cucumbers. There
are whole Families who live upon nothing but Cu-
cumbers above half the Year: they eat them raw,
without peeling, like Apples; or elfe they cut
them out in thick Slices, not to dreſs them in a
Salad, but throw them into a Bafon of very four
Milk; and after they have eat plentifully of it,
they drink a great Pot-full of freſh Water. Theſe
Fruits are admirable, and never occafion the
Gripes. The Pages of the Seraglio dare not
enter into the Places where theſe are fet, ever
fince Mahomet II. caus'd even feven to be ript
up, to diſcover who had eat one of his Cu-
cumbers.
The Mutes
Befides the Officers already mention'd,
the Sultans have alfo in their Palace two
forts
Of the Government of the Turks. 247
forts of People, who ferve to divert them; namely,
the Mutes, and the Dwarfs. The Mutes of the
Seraglio are a Species of rational Creatures by
themſelves: for, not to difturb the Prince's Re-
poſe, they have invented a Language among
themfelves, the Characters of which are exprefs'd
by Signs alone; and theſe Signs are underſtood
by Night as well as by Day, by touching certain
Parts of their Body. This Language is fo much
in faſhion in the Seraglio, that they who would
pleaſe there, and are oblig'd to be in the Prince's
Prefence, learn it very carefully: for it would be
a want of the deep Refpect they owe him, to
whiſper one another in the Ear before him.
The Dwarfs are perfect Apes, and
make a thouſand Grimaces among
themſelves, or elfe with the Mutes, to fet the
Sultan a laughing, who fometimes does them the
honour to give them feveral Kicks with his Foot.
Whenever they meet with a Dwarf who is born
deaf, and confequently dumb, they eſteem him as
a very Phenix of the Palace, and admire him be-
yond the moſt graceful Man in the World, efpe-
cially if the Baboon is an Eunuch alfo. And
theſe three Defects, which ought to render a Man
contemptible in the laft degree, make him the
moſt compleat of all Creatures in the Eyes and
Judgment of the Turks.
The Dwarfs.
The Women of
I ought now to fpeak of the Wo-
men of the Seraglio, but in that I the Seraglio.
muſt be excus'd; for they fall no more
under the Knowledge of the Senfes, than fo many
pure Spirits. Thefe Beauties are intirely referv'd
to entertain the Sultan, and vex the miferable
Eunuchs. The Governors of the Provinces make
Prefents to the Grand Signior of the lovelieft
Girls in the Empire, not only to ingratiate them-
felves with him, but to plant fome Creatures of
their
R 4
248 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
their own alſo in the Palace, who may be able to
procure them an Advancement. After the Sul-
tan's Death, the Women whom he honour'd
with his Embraces, and their eldeſt Daughters,
are removed into the old Seraglio of Conftantinople;
the younger are fometimes left for the new Em-
peror, or are marry'd to the Baffa's. However,
fince it is a Crime to fee thoſe who remain in the
Palace, very little regard can be given to what is
written about them: for tho' Means might be
found to get into the Seraglio, yet who would
be willing to die for a Glance of his Eyes fo un-
happily employ'd? Whether thefe Ladies alfo
enter the Sultan's Bed at the Feet, as fome would
have us believe, or at the Side, I fhall not deter-
mine; but content myſelf with accounting them
the leaſt unfortunate Slaves in the World: Liberty
is always preferable to fo flender and trifling a
Happineſs.
What can one fay concerning a Place, where
even the Prince's chief Phyfician is admitted to
vifit the Women who are fick, with the greateſt
difficulty? The Phyſician alfo can neither fee
them, nor be feen by them; nor is he fuffer'd
to feel their Pulfe, but thro' a piece of Gaufe or
Crape; and very often he cannot diftinguiſh
whether it is an Artery or a Vein which beats.
The Women alfo who look after the fick, dare
not acquaint him with what paffes; for they fly
the Room in all hafte, and no one ſtays about the
Bed but the Eunuch, to prevent the Phyfician
from feeing his Patient, and to lift up juft the
Edge of the Curtain as far as they fhall think
neceffary, for the fick Creature to put out her Arm.
If the Phyſician fhould require to view fo much
as the tip of her Tongue, or touch any part, he
would be ftabb'd upon the Spot. Hippocrates,
with all his Knowledge, would have been ſtrangely
embar-
Of the Government of the Turks. 249
embarraſs'd, if there had been Muffulmen in his
time. For myſelf, who have been bred up in his
School, and according to his Maxims, I was ex-
tremely at a loss how to behave towards the great
Men, when I was call'd in, and viſited the Apart-
ments of their Wives. Thefe Apartments are juft
like the Dormitories of our Religious, and at
every Door I found an Arm cover'd with Gauſe,
thruft out thro' a fmall Loop-hole made on pur-
pofe. At firſt I fancied they were Arms of Wood
or Brafs, to ſerve for Sconces, to light up Candles
in at Night; but it furpriz'd me when I was told, I
muſt cure the Perfons to whom thoſe Arms belong’d.
It is a falfe Notion, that the Jewish Women
can go into all the Apartments of the Women of
the Seraglio, to fell their Jewels: they are allow'd
to come no farther than into a certain Hall,
where they drive their Trade, nor is the Door
open'd to them, till the Eunuchs have fearch'd
them heedfully; and a Man who ſhould be catch'd
in a Woman's Habit, would have his Throat cut
in an Inftant, and a Chriftian Woman would be
us'd
very ſcurvily. The Eunuchs alone paſs to and
fro upon the Meffages, and carry in the Jewels,
and bring back the Money; and they underſtand
well enough how to pay themſelves for their
Pains. After all, what Ufe can theſe Eunuchs
make of their Money, who have neither Rela-
tions nor Friends, and who can reap no other
Pleaſure from it, than to handle their Gold, and
devour it with their Eyes? Their principal Aim,
they fay, is to fecure their Lives at the Revolutions
which happen upon the Sultan's Death; but they
are very feldom in danger, who look to the
Women.
The other Officers, who take care The Surveyor of
of the Seraglio, of whom I am to the Baths, &c.
fpeak, are the Surveyor of the Baths; the Grand
Falconer,
250 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
Falconer, whofe Officers carry a Hawk upon their
right Fift; the Grand Huntſman, who has under
him above twelve hundred Dog-keepers; the Go-
vernor of the Hounds and the Setting Dogs; the
Governor of the Grey-hounds, the Maftiffs, and
the Spaniels; the Grand Querry, who has two
chief Querries under him, who command a great
many Officers, and thofe alfo an infinite number
of Grooms; for there is no Place, where Horfes
are more valued than in Turky. They feed them
with a little Barley and minc'd Straw, which they
give them Evening and Morning in a ſmall
quantity, and the reft of the Day they travel on
brifkly, and thereby become capable of holding
out extraordinary Courfes: it is faid alſo, that the
Horfes which come Arabia, and from about Ba-
bylon, will travel thirty Leagues without refting:
they have admirable Legs, but no Hips nor Cheft.
The Capigi's.
I muſt not forget two other forts of
Officers, who are of wonderful Ufe to
the Grand Signior, as well within as without the
Seraglio; and thefe are the Capigi's and the
Chiaus's. The Body of the Capigi's, or Porters,
confifts of about four hundred, commanded by
four Captains of the Port, who are every one
upon Guard in turn upon Council-days. The
Pay of the Porters is fifteen Afpers a Day: their
Habit is like the Janizaries, but they have no
Horns before their Bonnets. Fifty of thefe Capigi's
are upon Duty every Day at the Gate of the firft
Court of the Seraglio, and as many more at the
Gate of the Court of the Divan. When the
Grand Signior is diffatisfied with the Conduct of a
Viceroy or Governor, he fends one of theſe
Capigi's with an Order to demand his Head. The
Capigi ftrikes it off, after he has ſtrangled him;
and feaſons it with Salt, to preferve it, if the
Road is very long, and carries it in a Sack to the
Sultan:
Of the Government of the Turks. 251
Sultan: fo that thefe Capigi's are perfectly Ex-
ecutioners.
The Chiaus's are employ'd in more The Chiaus's.
honourable Commiffions: they carry
the Emperor's Orders over his whole Dominions,
and are charg'd with the Letters he writes to
Sovereign Princes: they are, as it were, Exempts
of the Guard to the Grand Signior. Their Num-
ber is about fix hundred Men, commanded by a
Chief, who is call'd the Chiaus-bachi. This Offi-
cer performs the part of Grand Maſter of the Ce-
remonies, and Introductor of Ambaffadors. On
the Days of the Divan he places himſelf at the
Door of the Grand Signior's Apartment, with the
Captain of the Guard then in waiting. The
Pay of the Chiaus's is from twelve Afpers a Day
to forty. They are at the Command of the
Grand Vifier, the Vifiers, and the Beglerbegs,
and even the Baffa's; but the Rank of thoſe whom
they ſerve, is diftinguifh'd by the Apple at the
top of their Staff; which, for the principal Offi-
cers, is of Silver, but for others, of Wood. The
greater part of the Chiaus's do the Duty of Ser-
jeants, in citing Parties to appear before the Di-
van, and to meet and agree Matters among them-
felves. They never lay down their Staff or their
Bonnet: the Bonnet is very large, and is like the
Bonnet of Ceremony of the firſt Officers of the
Empire.
It is time, my Lord, that I fhould inform you
concerning the Officers who dwell out of the Pa-
lace, and who never come there, but when they
are fummon'd, or the Duty of their Place calls
them. At the head of his Minifters the Sultan
places the Grand Vifier, who is, as it
were, his Lieutenant-general; with
whom he divides, or rather to whom
he leaves the Care of the whole Empire. The
The Grand
Vifier.
Grand
252 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
Grand Vifier is not only intrufted with the Finan-
ces, with foreign Affairs, and the Adminiſtration
of Juftice in sivil and criminal Matters, but alfo
with the Conduct of the War, and the Command
of the Armies. A Man who is capable of fuf-
taining fo great a Burden as he ought, is very un-
common; yet, there have been found Men, who
have executed this Charge ſo ſkilfully, that they
were the Wonder of their Age. The Cuperli's,
Father and Son, were triumphant both in Peace
and War, and by a Policy almoſt unknown be-
fore, died quietly in their Bed. Cuperli, their Re-
lation, who was kill'd in the Battle of Salanke-
men, was alſo a great Man; and, had he liv'd,
would have protected the State from the Revolu
tions with which it is ftill threaten'd. This
Empire, which at this Day feems to be declining,
ftands in need of fuch Miniſters.
When the Sultan names a Grand Vifier, he
puts into his Hands the Seal of the Empire, upon
which is engraven his Name. This is the Badge
of the firſt Minifter: he carries it always in his
Bofom. He diſpatches all his Orders with this
Seal, without confulting or giving an Account
to any one. His Power is unlimited, unleſs with
reſpect to the Troops, whom he cannot puniſh
without the Concurrence of the Commanders.
Excepting this, Affairs of all forts are brought
before him, and are decided by his Judgment.
He difpofes of all Honours, and all the Pofts
of the Empire, except thofe of Judicature. The
Entry of his Palace is free to all the World, and
he gives Audience even to the meaneft of the
Poor. Yet, if any one thinks he has great In-
juſtice done him, he may make his way to the
Grand Signior himſelf, by putting Fire upon his
Head; or elſe he fixes his Petition upon the End
of
Vol. II.
pag. 20.
ATurkish Standard
от
Horfe - Tail,
call'd in Turky
or HOUY.
Hou
89.
Of the Government of the Turks. 253
of a Reed, and fo carries his Complaint to the
Sultan.
The Grand Vifier appears in his high Station
with a world of Magnificence: he has above two
thouſand Officers or Domeſticks in his Palace, and
never fhews himſelf in publick, but with a Tur-
bant adorn'd with two Plumes of Feathers,
charg'd with Diamonds and precious Stones:
the Harneſs of his Horfe is fet with Rubies and
Turquoiſes, and his Houfing is embroider'd with
Gold and Pearls. His Guard is compos'd of
about four hundred Bofnians or Albanians, whofe
Pay is from twelve to fifteen Aſpers a Day: ſome
of theſe attend him on foot, when he goes to the
Divan; but when he marches into the Field, they
are well mounted, and carry a Lance, a Sword, a
Hatchet, and a pair of Piſtols, They are call'd
Deli's, that is, Fools, becauſe of their fantaſtical
Airs, and their Habit, which is ridiculous; for
they have a kind of Seaman's Jacket.
The Grand Vifier is preceded by three Horſe-
tails, on the top of each of which is a gilded Ap-
ple: this is the Military Enfign of the Ottomans,
which they call Thou or Thouy. For a certain
General of this Nation, they fay, being at a plunge
to rally his Troops, who had loft all their Stan-
dards, thought of this Device, to cut off a Horfe's
Tail, and erect it on the point of a Lance; the
Soldiers flock'd in to this new Enfign, and came
off with Victory.
When the Sultan honours the Grand Vifier with
the Command of an Army, he takes out one of
the Plumes of his own Turbant at the head of
the Troops, and delivers it to him to place in his
own. And it is not till after this Mark of Di-
ftinction, that the Soldiers acknowledge him for
their General; and he has the Power to confer all
vacant Poſts, even Viceroyſhips and Governments,
upon
254 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
upon the Officers who ferve under him. In a
time of Peace, tho' the Sultan difpofes of the
chief Employments, yet the Grand Vifier con-
tinues to have a mighty Influence in procuring
them to be difpos'd to whom he thinks fit; for
he writes to the Grand Signior, and receives his
Anſwer immediately. It is in this manner that
he advances his own Creatures, or avenges himſelf
upon his Enemies, whom he is able to get ftran-
gled, purely by the Repreſentation he makes to
the Emperor about their ill Behaviour. He fre-
quently vifits the Prifons by Night, and always
takes an Executioner along with him, to put to
death thofe he judges culpable.
The ſtated Salary allow'd to the Grand Vifier
is but twenty thoufand Crowns, yet he enjoys an
immenfe Revenue. Not an Officer in this vaft
Empire, but makes him confiderable Preſents,
either to obtain or keep his Poſt: this is a fort of
indiſpenſable Tribute. The principal Enemies of
the Grand Vifier are thofe, who, next to the
Sultan, command in the Palace; as the Sultana-
mother, the chief of the black Eunuchs, and the
favourite Sultanefs: for theſe are ever contriving
to fell the great Offices; and that of Vifier being
the higheft, they watch him narrowly, even in
his minuteſt Actions: and as much as he is trufted,
he is encompaſs'd with Spies; and the Powers
which are againſt him, fometimes engage the Sol-
diery to mutiny, who under a pretence of fome
Grievances, demand this Minifter's Head, or his
Depofal: upon which the Sultan reſumes the Seal,
and fends it to him whom he chufes to fucceed.
This Prime Miniſter therefore is, in his turn,
oblig'd to make rich Preſents, in order to pre-
ferve himſelf in his Poft. The Grand Signior
is draining him perpetually, either by honouring
him with Vifits, for which he pays very dear, or
by
Of the Government of the Turks. 255
by afking of him from time to time confiderable
Sums. The Vifier alfo puts every thing to Sale,
to furniſh himſelf for thefe Expences: his Palace
is the Market where all Favours are fold; but he
ufes a world of Caution in managing the Traffick;
for Turky is the only Place in the Earth, where
Juftice is often well obferv'd in the midft of the
greateſt Injustice.
If the Grand Vifier is of a martial Genius, he
finds his Account better in War than in Peace.
Tho' his commanding the Army obliges him to
be at a diſtance from the Court, he has his Pen-
fionaries, who act for him in his Abfence; and a
War with Strangers, provided it go not too far,
is more favourable to him than a Peace, which
may occafion one at home. The Militia is then
bufy'd in defending the Frontiers, and the War
leaves them no time to think of an Infurrection;
for the moſt turbulent and ambitious Spirits, being
eager to diſtinguiſh themſelves by extraordinary
Actions, often fall in the Field: befides, this
Miniſter has not a more proper way to win the
Efteem of the People, than by fighting againſt
the Unbelievers.
After the firft Vifier, there are fix
others, who are ſtil'd fimply Vifiers, the Bench, or
The Vifiers of
Vifiers of the Bench or of the Coun- the Council,
cil, and Baffa's of the three Horfe- and the Baffas
tails, becauſe three Horfe-tails are car- of the Three,
ried before them when they march, Horfe-tails.
whereas there is only one borne before the or-
dinary Baffa's. Theſe Vifiers are Men of Wif-
dom and clear Judgment, and knowing in the
Law, and affift at the Divan; but they never de-
liver their Opinion upon the Affairs which are
treated there, unless requir'd by the Grand Vifier,
who often fummons a fcret Council of the Mufti
alfo, and the Cadilefquers, or Juftices-general.
The
256 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
The Stipend of theſe Vifiers is two thouſand Crowns
per annum. The Grand Vifier commonly refers
Matters of fmall confequence to them, as well
as to the ordinary Judges; for as he is in a
manner the Interpreter of the Law in Points
not regarding Religion, he generally follows only
his own Opinion, either out of Vanity, or to fhew
the Credit he poffeffes.
The Grand Vifier holds a Divan [a] in his own
Houſe every Day, except Friday, which is a Day
of Reft with the Turks. During the Remain-
der of the Week, he goes four times to the
Divan of the Seraglio, viz. on Saturday, Sunday,
Monday, and Tueſday: he is preceded by the
Chiaus-bachi, and ſome of the Chiaus's, and fe-
veral Virgers, accompanied by the chief Lords of
the Empire, and follow'd by his Albanian Guard,
and above four hundred Perfons on horſeback,
who march thro' an infinite Croud of People,
making a thouſand Acclamations for his Profpe-
rity. On the Days of the Divan, an Hour before
Sun-rifing, three Officers mounted place them-
ſelves before the Seraglio, to make certain Prayers
there, while they wait for the Arrival of the Mi-
nifters, whom they falute by Name, with
a loud Voice, as they paſs along. At the fight
of the Palace, the Baffa's forget their Gravity,
and when they are thirty or forty Paces from the
Gate, fall a galloping, and range themſelves on
the right fide of the firſt Court, to expect the
Grand Vifier: the Janizaries and the Saphis are
planted in the fecond Court under the Galleries;
the Saphis on the left fide, and the Janizaries on
the right. The whole Train difmounts in the
firft Court, and paffes on to the ſecond; but the
Gate of the Divan is not open'd till the Grand
Vifier arrives, and after a Prieſt has made the
[a] A Court of Justice, and a Council.
Prayer
Of the Government of the Turks. 257
Prayer for the Souls of the Emperors deceas'd
and for the Health of him who reigns.
Thoſe who have Bufinefs at the Divan, enter
the Hall in a throng; but the Vifiers and Juſtices-
general, out of Refpect, enter not, except with
the Grand Vifier; and then the whole Affembly
proftrate themſelves on the Ground. When this
Miniſter is feated, the two Juftices-general take
their place on his left Hand, which is the moſt
honourable with the Turks: he of Europe is the
firſt next to the Grand Vifier, and he of Afia the
ſecond: then the Treaſurers-general of the Empire
place themſelves, with whom is a Sub-intendant,
and two Artizans. The Vifiers are difpos'd on
his right Hand, according to their Rank, with
the Guard of the Seals; and if there is any Beg-
lerbeg or Viceroy newly return'd from his Go-
vernment, the Grand Vifier does him the honour
to feat him next to the Vifiers.
They begin with the Affairs of the Finances.
The Chiaus-bachi firft goes to the Door of the
Treafury to take off the Seal, and brings it to the
Grand Vifier, who examines whether it is whole
and undefac'd. Then the Treafury is open'd, to
put in, or take out Money neceffary for paying
the Troops, or to anfwer other Occafions; after
which the Grand Vifier delivers the Seal back, to
be affix'd to the Door. From the Finances they
proceed to Matters of War, and confider the
Demands and Anſwers of Ambaffadors, and ex-
pedite the Orders of the Port, Patents, Grants,
Paffports, and Privileges. The Reis-effendi, or
Secretary of State, receives all the Diſpatches
from the Grand Vifier's Hands, and fends them
forward. If they are Orders of the Port, the
Chancellor feals them; but for the Letters of the
Signet, the Grand Vifier only fets the Emperor's
Signet beneath, which he ftamps upon them,
Vol. II.
having
S
258 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
J
having firſt dipt it in Ink. They go next upon
criminal Caufes: the Accufer appears with his
Witneſſes, and the Accufed is acquitted or con-
demn'd without delay. They conclude with what
civil Affairs are offer'd at the time.
It is at this Tribunal, that the loweft Man in
the Empire has the Confolation of having Reafon
done him, even againſt the greateſt Lords of the
Country: the Poor have the liberty of demanding
Juftice; and Muffulmen, Chriftians, and Jews
are equally heard. There is no brawling and
fquabling, and one fees no Advocates or Proctors:
the Clerks of the Secretaries of State read every
one's Petition. If it is for a Debt, the Vifier
fends a Chaus to fetch the Debtor, and the Cre-
ditor produces his Evidence, and the Money is
told out upon the Spot, or the Debtor is con-
demn'd to receive a certain Number of Blows with
the Batoon. If it is a Queftion of Fact, two or
three Witneſſes decide it in an Hour; and let the
Affair be of what nature it will, it never takes
above ſeven or eight Days. They have recourſe
to the Alcoran, and the Vifier interprets the Law,
if it be a Queſtion of Right: in a Matter of
Confcience he confults the Mufti by a fhort
Note, where he ftates the Cafe, without naming
the Perfon. Concerning Affairs of the Empire,
he fends an Abftract of the Petitions to the
Grand Signior, and waits his Anſwer. The Se-
cretary's Clerks write down all the Refolutions
taken by the Grand Vifier: the Secretary is en-
compas'd with Regiſters, who draw up the Wri-
ting in as few Words as poffible, and he delivers
out all the Decrees; and there being no Appeal,
the Caufe is never reviv'd, either by annulling
the Decree, or by a Writ of Review.
up
It muſt be allow'd on the other hand, that
Law-fuits are much rarer in Turky than with us:
for
Of the Government of the Turks. 259
for the Grand Signior's Subjects having only the
Ufe of the Goods, which they hold merely by
his Pleafure, leave very little ground of Conten-
tion when they die; whereas our Donations, Te-
ftaments, and Marriage-contracts are Sources of
infinite Difputes. An Italian told me one Day at
Conftantinople, that we ſhould be very happy in
Europe, if we could appeal from our Courts to the
Divan. His Reflection made me fmile: for,
added he, one might go to Conftantinople, and
all over Turky too, if there were occafion, before
one Suit would be finally decided in Europe. A
Turk of Africa pleading before the Parliament of
Provence against a Merchant of Marfeilles, who
had led him a Dance for many Years from Court
to Court, made a very merry Reply to one of his
Friends, who defir'd to know the State of his
Affairs: Why, they are wonderfully alter'd, fays the
African; when I first arriv'd here, I had a Row of
Piftoles as long as my Arm, and my Deed was com-
pris'd in half a Sheet of Paper; but at preſent I
bave a Writing above four times as long as my Arm,
and my Train of Piftoles is but half an Inch.
With all theſe Precautions, a great deal of In-
juftice is done in Turky: for they admit the Evi-
dence of all forts of Perfons, and People of the
greateſt Honefty are fometimes expos'd to lofe
their Goods and their Life, upon the bare Depo-
fition of two or three falfe Witneffes. If Juftice
is well executed in the Divan of Conftantinople, it
is becauſe they confider the Sultan is always
lift'ning at a Window juſt above the Grand Vifier's
Head, which is cover'd only with a Lattice and
a piece of Crape but do they not commit crying
Injustices in the Divans of other Towns, where
the Cadi's fuffer themfelves to be corrupted by
Money, and are only govern'd by their Paffions?
One may appeal, it is true, from their Judgment
S 2
:
to
260 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
to Conftantinople; but every Man is not in a con-
dition to make the Journey. See here alfo an-
other great Abuſe.
The Religious among the Turks, by a particu
lar Privilege, are exempted from common Juftice,
infomuch that many who have enrich'd themſelves
in the Administration of Affairs, and apprehend
they fhall be call'd to account, turn Dervifes or
Santons. There is no Religious Order among
Chriſtians fo powerful as that would be, which
ſhould have a Liberty of receiving Perfons, who,
after they had ruin'd a Province by their Extor-
tions, fhould be permitted to imitate this Turkish
Practice, and affume the Habit.
The Soldiers have the Privilege of being
judg'd only by their Commanders, or their De-
puties. During the four Hours the Divan of
Conftantinople is fitting, the Spahis and the Jani-
zaries attend in the fecond Court under the Gal-
leries, where they keep a profound Silence, and
every one holds in his Hand a Silver Staff gilded.
The Colonel of Horfe, and he of the Foot, here
difpenfe Juftice to their Soldiers; who, to prevent
Diſorder, are forbidden to ftir from their Place,
without being call'd. If they have Petitions to
prefent, they give them to two of their Comrades,
who are appointed to go and come upon this
Service. This Privilege encourages a world of
Miſchiefs in the Provinces; for moft of the
Rogues throw themſelves among the Janizaries, to
eſcape the Puniſhment of their Crimes.
;
I forgot, my Lord, to tell you, that there is
a Cloſet on one fide of the Hall of the Divan,
where feveral Officers wait during the Council
as the Keeper of the Rolls of the Grand Sig-
nior's Revenues, he who regifters every thing
which enters the publick Treaſury, or goes out,
and he who is appointed to fee the Pieces weigh'd
and
Of the Government of the Turks. 261
and prov'd. The Chiaus-bachi and the Capigi-
bachi paſs to and fro in the Court, to execute the
Grand Vifier's Orders.
Ambaffadors always have their Audience of the
Grand Signior upon a Divan-day, and are intro-
duc'd by the Captain of the Guard then on Duty.
The Ambaffador is plac'd upon a Stool over
against the Grand Vifier, and difcourfes of Bufi-
nefs till Dinner is ferv'd up after which the Pre-
fents the Ambaffador is oblig'd to make, are
brought into the Hall; and when the Grand Vi-
fier and the Officers of the Divan have obferv'd
them, the Capigi's carry them along one by one,
and expoſe them in Court, that every one may
judge of the Magnificence of the Prince who
fends them. During this, the Ambaffador has a
Veft prefented him, and fome are diftributed alfo
to his Retinue. The Sultan fhews himſelf in the
Hall of Audience, which is near the Divan,
fitting upon his Throne: the Throne is erected
upon Pillars, which fupport a wooden Canopy, all
cover'd with Plates of Gold, adorn'd with Num-
bers of Jewels, the Diamonds and precious Stones
of which are of wonderful Value. It is plac'd
in a Corner of the Hall upon a Sofra rais'd a
Foot and a half high, and cover'd with a Carpet
of the utmoft Magnificence. The Sultan fits with
his Legs acrofs, and is attended only by the
Chief of the white Eunuchs, the Keeper of the
Secret Treaſury, and fome Mutes, It is impoffi-
ble to have any other than a Side-view of his Face,
becauſe the Door of the Hall does not anſwer di-
rectly to the Corner where the Throne is plac'd.
Thofe of the Ambaffador's Train, who were pre-
ſented with Veſts, make their Salute to the Sul-
tan firſt, and are conducted each of them by two
Capigi's, who hold them under both Arms.
The Ambaffador himself, who, according to the
Cuftom
S 3
262 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
Cuſtom of the Country, pays his Salute laft, is
led up in the fame Pofture by two Captains of
the Port; and it is order'd fo, that in advancing
and retiring, they never turn their Back to the
Sultan. It was ufual once to kifs his Hand; but
it has been thought proper to lay afide this Cere-
mony, ever fince Amurat I. the Son of Orcanes,
was ſtabb'd by a wretched Soldier, who defign'd
by it to revenge the Death of the Defpot of Ser-
via, his Mafter. For fome time after this, they
continu'd to kiſs a long Sleeve, which was faften'd
to the Emperor's Veft on purpoſe. Count Left
and Marcheville, Ambaffadors of France, had the
honour to do this: but this Practice is now a
boliſh'd; and at prefent Ambaffadors make a
bare Salute, tho' the Captains of the Guard en-
deavour as much as they can to make them bow
down, but without Succefs: for the Ambaffadors
being appriz'd of what ought to be done, ftand
firm, and keep themſelves upright with all their
Strength. When they have made their Reverence,
they are left alone in the Hall with the Secretary
of the Ambaffy, and the Interpreter; to whom,
after they have open'd them, they deliver their
Prince's Letters, and the Interpreter having ex-
plain'd them, they withdraw. The Sultan falutes
the Ambaffador with a gentle Inclination of his
Head: he treats a Moment with the Vifiers con-
cerning the Subject of the Ambaffy, and delibe-
rates upon the Affairs in queftion, fuppofing they
are of confequence. The Grand Vifier returns
from thence to the Divan, where he ftays ftill
Noon, which is the Hour when the Council
breaks up; then he goes home, preceded by a
Company of Janizaries, and another of Chiaus's
on horfeback, by his Foot-guard, and follow'd
with an infinite Croud, who form a very nume-
Fous Court,
Upon
Of the Government of the Turks.
263
Upon the Day of the Divan the Emperor ge-
nerally caufes the principal Officers to give him an
Account of all that pafs'd in the Affembly, and
chiefly of the Duty of their Charge. They are
call'd upon for this fucceffively one after another,
The Janizary-aga, when he fees the Capigi-bachi
and the Chiaus-bachi coming to him, advances
towards them with four of his Captains, who ac-
company him as far as the Prince's Apartments,
at the Door of which he conjures them to pray
God to infpire the Sultan to forgive his Faults.
He enters alone to undergo the Examination,
and if the Prince is fatisfy'd with his Conduct, he
returns in Peace; if the Sultan finds him to be
guilty, he ftamps upon the Ground with his Foot,
at which Signal the Mutes enter, and ſtrangle the
Aga without other Formality.
The Spahi-aga is alſo cited to the Grand Sig-
nior upon the fame Occafion; but he commonly
comes away with more Cheerfulness than the reft;
for what Reaſon, I can't tell. The other great
Men of the Empire are afraid of falling under
the Stroke, or, to fpeak more properly, under the
String of the Mutes, The Juftices-general are
the only Perfons not fubject to this melancholy
Hazard, becauſe they belong to the Law. Some-
times the Sultan confults the Mufti before he puts
his Officers to death; and demands of him in
Writing, what Puniſhment a Slave would deſerve,
who fhould commit fuch Faults. The Mufti,
who knows well enough this is merely a Forma-
lity, and that the Honour would foon be difpens'd
with, if he did not give into his Mafter's Opinion,
feldom fcruples to determine it is Death; and very
often contrary to his better Sentiments.
The Prefents the Grand Signior makes to the
Prime Vifier are always fufpected; at leaſt he is
S 4
oblig'd
264 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
oblig❜d to make his Acknowledgment for them,
by a Sum anſwerable to his Maſter's Grandeur.
Sometimes, as a Mark of unufual Diftinction,
this Prince in the Morning gives his firſt Minifter
a Veft, which he had worn the Day before, and
in the Afternoon he fends for his Head, which is
furrender'd with a perfect Refignation; fo true is
it, that Nature in many Cafes yields to Prejudices.
It is Prepoffeffion which makes Martyrs in all Re-
ligions except the Chriftian, where Martyrdom is
an Effect of Grace. If Defcartes and Gaffendus
had ever gone to Conftantinople, as they were once
thinking to have done, what a world of excel-
lent Reflections would they have made upon the
Morals and Politicks of the Turks! The great
ones of the Port die with Tranquillity a violent
Death, and efteem it a holy and glorious thing
to die, if it is by the Sultan's Order; at leaft, they
act as if they thought fo: it is their Policy alfo,
to give them no time to confider, by allowing
them only to make one fhort Prayer.
The Caimacan
When the Grand Vifier is not at
Conftantinople, the Caimacan fupplies
his room, and acts by his Direction. The Word
Caimacan in Turkish fignifies Lieutenant or Deputy.
This Lieutenant holds a Divan, and gives Au-
dience to Ambaffadors: but the happieſt Circum-
ſtance belonging to his Office, is, that he is not
anfwerable for Events in Affairs of State; and if
the Grand Signior finds fault with any thing, the
Caimacan excufes himſelf by the Orders he re-
ceiv'd from the Prime Vifier. Befides this, the
Caimacan is Governor of Conftantinople, where he
exerciſes a furprizing Policy. If a Baker fells
Bread by falfe Weights, he is faftened by the Ear
for twenty four Hours to the Door of his Shop.
They who fell the firſt Fruits, take Money firſt,
but they don't fell theſe dearer than the next:
for
Of the Government of the Turks. 265
for Novelty is not fo gainful in Turky, as it is in
France; and a Tradefman who fhould go to make
a Profit of it, would expofe himſelf to the Bafti-
nado. One may fend Children to Market with
Safety, if they do but know how to aſk for what
they want. The Caimacan's Officers ftop the
Children in the Streets, and examine what they
have got, and weigh it; and if it is right, they
let them pafs; but if they find there is a Cheat
in the Weight, or the Meaſure, or the Price
was too dear, they go back with them to the
Man who fold it, and he is condemn'd either to
the Baftinado, or to a Fine. It is the Intereft of
the Fruiterers, that the Children be honeſt, and
able to govern their Appetites; fince if they
fhould eat a Fig or a Cherry upon the way, the
poor Tradeſman would pay the Damage: for thirty
Blows of the Batoon are generally given, if one
Onion is found fhort, and twenty-five for a Leek.
If any one is excus'd from the Baſtinado, the com-
mon Puniſhment for fhort Tale or Meaſure, then
they put about the Seller's Neck two thick Planks
bor'd hollow, and fill'd at each end with heavy
Stones. In this Condition they lead the wretched
Fruiterer all over the Town; and if he defires to
reft himſelf in his Progrefs, he muſt
pay down
fuch a Number of Afpers. Surgeons are alſo
chaftis'd fometimes after the fame manner; but
inſtead of Stones, they hang on at the end of
the Planks ſeveral ſmall Bells, which make a
lamentable Tinkling, as they march along the
Streets. This fignifies, they have fuffer'd ſome
People to die thro' their Neglect; and the De-
fign of this Ceremony, fay the Muffulmen, is only
to warn Perfons not lightly to truſt their Life in
the Hands of fuch Murderers.
If a dead Body is found in the Street, the next
Neighbours are condemn'd to pay for the Blood,
fuppofing
166 AVOYAGE into the Levant.
fuppofing the Author of the Murder is not difco-
ver'd. The Terror that all are in of this Cala-
mity, makes every one ftrive as much as poffi-
ble to compofe Quarrels, and prevent any Difor-
ders in the Neighbourhood. The Shops are fhut
at Sun-fet, and not open'd again till its Rifing.
Every one retires home in time, and keeps good
Hours: in a word, there is more noife made in
one Day in a Market of Paris, than there is in
a whole Year in all Conftantinople. The Grand
Signior goes about fometimes difguis'd, with an
Executioner, to fee what paffes in this great City.
Mahomet IV. who hated the fmoking of Tobacco
violently, and was inform'd it often prov'd the
Occafion of fetting Houfes on fire, was not con-
tent with publiſhing fevere Orders againſt this
Cuftom, but frequently made the round, to catch
fuch as ſmok'd; and it is faid, that he hang'd up
all he found, having firſt caus'd a Pipe to be thruſt
thro' their Nofe, and a Roll of Tobacco to be
ty'd about their Neck. The Watch all over
Turky carries to Prifon thofe whom they find a-
broad in the Night, be they of what Nation or
Religion they will: but they find very few; for
the Dread of the Baftinado, or being amerc'd,
keeps every one at home. It is a common Saying
in Turky, That in the Night the Streets are only for
the Dogs: and here indeed they are very full of thofe
Animals; for every one throws them out Victuals,
and it is very dangerous to walk on foot at fuch a
time. Thefe Creatures, which are as fierce and
ravenous as our Butchers Curs, make a terrible
Bellowing, and howl lamentably at the leaft
Noife they hear; and fometimes the very Chiding
of the Sea fets them a yelling.
The Soldiers there are very peaceable, excepting
the Levanti's, who ferve on board the Gallies: but
befides that they commit Diforders only in the
Suburbs
Of the Government of the Turks. 267
Suburbs of Conſtantinople, the Prejudice is inconfi-
derable, becauſe the Caimacan permits the Chri-
ftians to defend themſelves; which was granted
them upon the Complaints Ambaffadors were
making every Day, of the Infults the Subjects of
their Nation receiv'd. As for the Ja-
Janizaries.
nizaries, they live fairly enough in
Conftantinople; but they are very much fallen from
the high Efteem the antient Janizaries were in,
who contributed fo much to the Eſtabliſhment of
this Empire. Whatever Precautions the Em-
perors have fometimes taken to preferve thefe
Troops from degenerating, they are declin'd very
much: and it feems likely, that in another Age
they will ſtill be lefs regarded, for fear of their
rendering themſelves too formidable.
Tho' the greater part of the Turkish Infantry
carries the Name of Janizaries, yet it is certain,
in all this great Empire, there are not above five
and twenty thoufand, who are true Janizaries, or
Janizaries of the Porte. This Soldiery was once
compos'd only of Tributary Children, inftructed
in the Turkish Religion; but at preſent this is not
obferv'd: and People are not moleſted on this Ac-
count, fince the Officers take Money of the
Turks themselves to be entred in this Body.
Formerly the Janizaries were not permitted to
marry, the Turks being perfuaded that the Cares
of a Family render Soldiers lefs fit for the Exer-
cife of Arms. Yet now-a-days they who will,
marry with the confent of their Chiefs, who alfo
at the fame time give them a Sum of Money. The
principal Reaſon which keeps the Janizaries from
marrying, is, that Batchelors only arrive at Offi-
ces, the moſt defirable of which are to be Chiefs.
of their Chambers: for this Soldiery is all lodg'd
in a large Quarter, divided into 162 Chambers.
Every Chamber has a Chief, who commands in
if;
268 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
it; but out of it he only performs the Office of
Lieutenant of the Company, and receives Orders
from the Captain.
Every Chamber has its own Enfign-bearer,
its Expenditor, its Cook, and its Water-carrier.
Above the Captains is only the Lieutenant-general
of the Janizaries, who is fubject to the Aga. Be-
fides the common Pay, the Emperor gives the
Janizaries every Year a compleat Suit of Cloth of
Salonica, and every Day allows them a quantity of
Rice, Meat, and Bread. The Chamber lodges
them for one half per Cent. upon the Pay they re-
ceive in time of Peace, and feven per Cent. in time
of War. This Pay is but from two to twelve
Afpers a Day, and is never rais'd but by little
and little, in proportion to their Service: when
they are diſabled, they have an Allowance for
Life. The Cap peculiar to the Janizaries is made
like the Sleeve of a Coat; one end is put upon
their Head, and the other hangs down upon their
Shoulders: to this Cap before is faſtened a fort of
Spike half a Foot long, of Silver gilded, and
adorn'd with Baftard Stones. When the Janiza-
ries march into the Field, the Sultan furniſhes
them with Horſes to carry their Baggage, and
Camels to carry their Tents; to wit, one Horfe
for ten Soldiers, and one Camel for twelve. At
the Acceffion of every Sultan, their Pay is aug-
mented one Afper a Day.
The Chambers inherit the Effects of thoſe
'Members who die without Children; and the reſt,
tho' they have Children, always leave their Cham-
ber a Legacy. The Solaes and Peyes alone, a-
mong the Janizaries, are the Emperor's Guard;
the others never go to the Seraglio, but to attend
their Officers upon Divan-days, and to prevent
Diſorders which might happen in the Court:
they are generally plac'd Centinel at the Gates,
and
Of the Government of the Turks. 269
and the Croſs-ways of the Town, to keep watch
there. They are fear'd every where, and reſpect-
ed, tho' they carry only a Cane in their Hand;
for Arms are not deliver'd to them, but when they
take the Field. The greater part of the Janiza-
ries do not want for Education, being taken from
the Body of the Azamoglans, which, either thro'
Impatience, or on fome other Account, they fre-
quently forfake. Thoſe who are to be admitted
among the Janizaries, pafs along in Review before
the Officer, and every one takes hold on the bot-
tom of his Companion's Veft. Their Names are
entred in the Grand Signior's Regiſtry, after
which they all run up to the Maſter of their
Chamber, who, to make them know they are
under his Jurifdiction, gives them every one a
Box on the Ear as they pafs by. At their Inroll-
ment they take two Oaths; the firſt is to ſerve the
Grand Signior faithfully; the fecond, that they
will follow the Will of their Comrades in Mat-
ters relating to the Body. There is no fet of
Men in Turky to united as that of the Janizaries:
it is this ſtrict Union which preferves their Autho-
rity, and gives them the Daring fometimes to de-
poſe the Sultan. Tho' there are but twelve or
thirteen thousand in Conftantinople, they are affur'd
that their Brethren, what part foever of the Em-
pire they are in, will not fail to approve their
Conduct.
If they think they have occafion to complain,
their Difcontent begins to fhew itſelf in the Court,
of the Divan at the time of the diftributing the
Diſhes of Rice to them, prepar'd in the Grand
Signior's Kitchen: for they eat it quietly, if they
are contented; and on the contrary, they throw
the Diſhes on the Ground, and turn them topfy-
turvy, if they are out of humour at the Miniſtry.
There is no Infolence they fcruple to utter at fuch
a time
270 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
a time againſt the principal Minifters, being well
perfuaded they fhall obtain Satisfaction: for this
Reaſon the moſt favourable Opportunity is taken
early to prevent their Rifing, eſpecially the time
when they give them feveral Days Pay together.
The Mutinies of the Janizaries are much to be dread-
ed: for how often have they in an Inftant chang'd
the Face of the Empire! The fierceft Sultans, and
the moſt ſkilful Minifters have often found how
dangerous it was to keep on foot, in time of
Peace, a Militia, who fo well underſtand their own
Interefts. They depos'd Bajazet II. in 1512, and
promoted the Death of Amurat III. in 1595.
They threatened Mahomet III. with Dethrone-
ment. Ofman II. who had fworn to deſtroy them,
having imprudently diſclos'd his Defign, was dif
gracefully treated by them; for they made him
walk on foot to the Caſtle of the Seven Towers,
where he was ftrangled in 1622. Mustapha I.
whom this impudent Soldiery put in Ofman's room,
was depos'd two Months after by the fame Hands
as advanc'd him. They alfo put to death Sultan
İbrahim in 1649, after they had dragg'd him igno-
miniouſly to the Seven Towers. His Son Mahomet
IV. was not fo unhappy indeed; but they depos'd
him after the laft Siege of Vienna, which mifcar-
ried yet only by the Fault of Cara Mustapha the
Prime Vifier. In this Sultan's ftead was prefer'd
his Brother Solyman III. a Prince of no Merit,
who was alfo depos'd in his turn fome time after.
With refpect to the Sultanefs-mother, the
Vifiers, the Caimacan, the firft Eunuchs of the
Seraglio, the Grand Treaſurer, and their Aga
himſelf, the Janizaries value them not, and de-
mand their Heads upon the leaft Uneafinefs. All
the World knows, how they us'd, at the begin-
ning of this Century, the Mufti Fefullah Effendi,
who had been Preceptor of Sultan Mustapha.
This
Of the Government of the Turks. 278
This Prince, who lov'd his Tutor blindly, was
not able to prevent his being drawn upon a Hurdle
to Adrianople, and thrown into the River. The
only Expedient which could ever be devis'd to re-
prefs the Infolence of thefe Soldiers, was to en-
courage the Spahis againſt them, and thereby
make them jealous one of another; but they a-
gree together too well upon certain Occafions. It
fignifies nothing to change their Quarters; for as
the abfent always ftand to what their Fellows have
done, it is impoffible to avoid their Fury, when
they have once taken it in their Head, that they
have fuffer'd fome great Injuftice. The Hiftory
of the Turks can furnifh few Examples of their
having been appeas'd without confiderable Largeff-
es, or without its cofting the firſt Officers of the
Empire their Lives.
They have never dar'd to confifcate the Trea-
fure of the Janizaries, nor to fhare the Goods
their Officers poffets in property in feveral parts of
Afia; as at Cataya, at Angora, at Caraiſſer, and in
other Places. When the General dies, the Trea-
furer inherits his Goods: he is the only Officer
whoſe Effects are not feiz'd to the Emperor's Pro-
fit. This General has the Privilege of prefent-
ing himſelf before the Sultan with his Arms at li-
berty, whereas the Prime Vifier, and the other
great Men of the Port never appear in his Pre-
fence, but with their Arms a-croſs their Breaſt;
which is rather a fervile, than a refpectful Poſture.
After the Aga, the principal Officers of the
Janizaries are, the Aga's Lieutenant, the Grand
Provoft, the Captain of the Serjeants, who march
by the Emperor's Side upon Days of Ceremony;
the Captains of his Foot-archers, and the Com-
mander of his Pages on foot; thefe laft, as well
as the Archers, march by the Grand Signior's
Perfon when he walks thro' the City. They are
but
272 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
+
but threeſcore, and wear Caps of beaten Gold
embelliſh'd before with Milk-white Feathers. As
for the Foot-archers, or Archers of the Guard,
they are in number three or four hundred; and in
a Day of Battel they are about the Sultan, arm'd
only with Bows and Arrows, that they may not
frighten the Grand Signior's Horſe. Their Habit
is a Coat of Cloth, tuck'd up at the Corners as
high as their Waift, fo as to fhew their Shirts:
their Cap is Cloth, and ends in a Point, and is
adorn'd with Feathers in fafhion of a Plume.
Theſe Archers fhoot with their left Hand, as well
as with the right, which they are taught, that fo
they may never turn their Back upon the Sultan:
when he paffes the Rivers, they fwim by his Horfe,
and found the Fordings with all the Diligence ima-
ginable as a Reward, the firft time the Sultan
paffes a River, he cauſes a Crown apiece to be
given to every one who was up to the Knee in
Water; and if they were up to the Middle, they
have two Crowns, and three if they were above
the Waift.
:
Out of the Body of the Janizaries are taken
the Gunners, and thoſe who take care of the
Arms. The Gunners are about twelve hundred,
and receive their Orders from the Grand Mafter
of the Artillery: they live at Topana in Apartments.
divided into 52 Chambers; but it is very happy
that they are not as dextrous as the Chriftians, in the
cafting and managing Artillery. They who look
to the Arms are fix hundred in number, divided
into 60 Chambers: they lodge in Apartments
near Sanita Sophia. They not only take Care of
the antient Arms which are in the Arfenal, but
of thoſe of the Janizaries and Spahis, which they
deliver out to them in good Order, when they
are going into the Field.
Befides
!
Of the Government of the Turks. 273
Befides the Janizaries now mention'd, all the
Provinces of this vaft Empire are fill'd at pre-
fent with Foot Soldiers who bear the Name of
Janizaries but thefe Janizaries of the
fecond Order are not inroll'd in the the 2d Order.
Janizaries of
Body of Janizaries of the Port, and
have nothing of the antient Difcipline of the
Turks. All ill Perfons, who would fkreen them-
felves from the ordinary Courts of Juftice, and
honeſt Perſons alfo, who are willing to cover them-
felves from the Infults of the others; they who
would eſcape the Taxes, and be excus'd from
publick Offices, purchaſe of the Colonels of the
Janizaries, who are in the Towns of the Pro-
vince, the Title of Janizaries. They are fo far
from receiving Pay, that they give ſeveral Aſpers
a Day to theſe Officers, to enjoy thofe Privileges:
ſometimes they paſs for Invalids, or Penfioners for
Life, and live quietly at home, without being
obliged to go into the Army. Is it furprizing
after this, that the Turkish Forces are fo much di-
minifh'd? They never have had fo many Soldiers,
nor fuch fmall Armies: the Officers who are
oblig❜d to take the Field, pafs their own Dome-
ſticks for Soldiers, and put the Pay of thoſe who
ought to bear Arms in the Prince's Service, into
their own Pockets. The Corruption which is in-
troduc'd into this great Empire, feems to threaten
it with ſome ſtrange Revolution.
Neither muſt we confound with the Janizaries
another fort of Infantry, call'd Azapes and Ar-
cangi's. The Azapes are the old Muffulman-
bands, more antient than the Janizaries themſelves,
but very much defpis'd. They ferve for Pioneers,
and fometimes are merely a Bridge to the Horſe
in marſhy Grounds, and fo many Fafcines to fill
up the Ditches of a Place befieg'd. The Arcan-
gi'shave no more Pay than the Azapes, but are
Vol. II.
appointed
T
274
A VOYAGE into the Levant.
:
appointed only to ravage the Frontiers of the
Enemy. Yet in full Peace (for the War is not
eſteem'd to be declar'd, unleſs the Artillery is
drawn into the Field) they are perpetually making.
Incurfions, and pillaging their Neighbours. If
any one among thefe Troops happens to become
a good Soldier, after fome vigorous Action, he
is entred in the Body of the Janizaries.
This, my Lord, is the State of the Turkish In-
fantry, nor is that of their Cavalry at prefent one
tittle better it is compos'd of two forts, known
by the Name of Spahi's, but they must be care-
fully diftinguiſh'd. The one are upon the Em-
peror's Pay, and the others not. The Spahi's in
Pay are divided into feveral Standards, the prin-
cipal of which are the Yellow and the Red:
thoſe who have no Pay, are of two forts; the
Zaims, and the Timariots.
The Spahi's in Pay, are taken from among the
Ichoglans and the Azamoglans, who have been
bred up in the Grand Signior's Seraglio's. Their
loweſt Pay is twelve Afpers a Day, and the higheſt
a hundred thoſe who come from Ichoglans,
generally begin with twenty or thirty, which are
increas'd according to their Merit, or the Intereft
of their Friends. In time of War all the Spahi's
in Pay, who bring in Heads of the Enemy, are
advanc'd two Afpers a Day: and they who firſt
acquaint the Sultan with the Death of any of their
Comrades, are rais'd as much.
The Spahi's are pay'd in the Hall, and in the
prefence of the Grand Vifier, or his Chiaia, in
order to avoid all occafion of Complaint. Tho"
the Spahi's are born of unknown Parentage, they
may yet be look'd on as the Nobility of the
Country: their Education makes them more ac-
compliſh'd than the other Turks; and in every
place good Manners ought to conftitute a real and
true
Of the Government of the Turks. 273
true Nobility. Thoſe of the Red Standard were
heretofore only Servitors to the Yellow, but now
they are all equal; and the Red have even over-
topt their Maſters under Mahomet III, who in a
Battel, in which the Spahi's of the Yellow gave
ground and fled, reftor'd the Fight by the Va-
lour of the Red.
The Arms of both are a Lance and a Scymi-
ter, and they make ufe of a Dart, which they
manage with wonderful Dexterity: the Dart
has a ſteel Point at one end, and is about two
Foot and a half long. They alfo carry a Sword,
but it is faften'd to the Saddle, and hangs down
upon the Horſe's Thigh, fo as not to hinder them
in difcharging their Piſtol and Carbine. Some
likewife ufe Bows and Arrows, efpecially the
Spahi's of Anatolia; for thofe of Europe or Rome-
lia rather chufe the Arms in ufe with us.
Theſe
Troops however fight without Order, and in a
Croud, inftead of throwing themſelves into Squa-
drons, and rallying regularly. Mahomet Kuperli
the Grand Vifier, who was a great General, was
fo far from bringing them to Difcipline, that he
affected to humble them, and keep them ignorant,
for fear of increafing their Infolence; fince which
time they have extremely loft their antient Repu-
tation. They baftinade them now on the Soles of
the Feet, left, if they ſcourged them, they ſhould
be diſabled from mounting their Horſe; and for
a contrary Reaſon the Janizaries are fcourged,
becauſe they are obliged to use their Feet in
marching.
When the Grand Signior goes to command his
Army in Perfon, he caufes large Sums to be divid-
ed among the Spahi's. One Spahi and a Jani-
zary are placed Century at each Cord of his Tent,
and the fame at the Chief Vifier's. The other
Standards of the Spahi's are, the White, the
T 2
White
276 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
Timariots.
:
White and Red, the White and Yellow, and the
Green. The most famous Spahi's are thofe call'd
Mutafaraca, who receive forty Afpers a Day.
The Emperor is their Colonel: their Duty is to
attend upon him they are about five hundred.
As to the other Cavalry called Zaims
Zaims and and Timariots, they are Perfons to whom
the Grand Signior gives certain Com-
mands, term'd Timar, for Life, on condition they
maintain fuch a number of Horfe for his Service.
The firſt Sultans being Mafters of the Fiefs of the
Empire, erected Baronies or Commands out of
them, to reward any extraordinary Services, and
principally for raiſing and fubfifting a Body of
Troops without iffuing Money. But it was Solyman
II. who eſtabliſh'd the Order and Diſcipline of theſe
Baronies, and fettled by his Decrees the Number
of Men each one fhould be obliged to find. This
Body has been not only very powerful, but very
celebrated alfo thro' the whole Empire.
Butt
Avarice, the common Vice of the Eaft, has made
them decline ſeveral Years ago. The Viceroys
and Governors of Provinces prevail ſo far by their
Intrigues at Court, that even the Commands which
lie out of their Government, are given to their
Domeſticks, or to them who offer the moft Money.
The Zaims and the Timariots differ little more
than in their Income. The Zaims have the moſt
confiderable Commands, and their Revenues make
from 20,000 to 818,819 Afpers. If they produce
even an Afper above this, it becomes the Property
of fome Baffa. Alfo, when a Commander dies,
his Command is divided, fuppofing the Income of
it has been augmented under the deceas'd, as it
commonly happens to be; for they are generally
improv'd rather than leffen'd. The Zaims are
obliged to maintain at leaft four Horfe, which is
after
Of the Government of the Turks. 277
after the rate of one Man for five thoufand Afpers
of Rent.
There are two forts of Timariots; the one re-
ceive their Provifions from the Port, the other from
the Viceroy of the Place; but their Equipages
are leſs than thoſe of the Zaims, and their Tents
are ſmaller, and proportion'd to their Revenue.
They who receive their Patents from the Court,
have from 5 or 6000, to 19,999 Afpers: if they
ſhould receive one Afper more, they would pals
into the Rank of Zaims. They who have their
Patents from the Viceroys, have an Income from
three thouſand Afpers, to fix thoufand. Every
Timariot is bound to provide one Horſeman for
every three thouſand Afpers his Income produces.
The Zaims and the Timariots are obliged to
march in Perſon to the Army, at the firſt Orders,
and nothing can excuſe them: the Indifpos'd are
carried in Litters, and their Children in Baſkets
or Cradles. The Timariots muft furniſh Baſkets
to their Troopers, to carry Earth, for filling up
Ditches and Trenches. Theſe are better difciplin'd
than thoſe who are properly call'd the Spahi's,
tho' the Spahi's are more perfonable and luſty
and whereas the laft never engage but in a Croud,
at the head of the antient Cavalry; the Zaims
and Timariots are divided into Regiments, com-
manded by Colonels under the Baffa's. The
Baffa of Aleppo is Colonel-general of this Body of
Horfe, when he is in the Army, becauſe being
Serafkier of the Army by his Place, it belongs to
him to command in Chief, during the Abfence of
the Grand Vifier.
I fhou'd now ſpeak of the Militia of Egypt;
but as I have not been there, I do not underſtand
it enough, my Lord, to offer you any Account of
it: I fhall therefore paſs to the Maritime Affairs,
concerning which I have carefully inform'd my-
T 3
felf
278 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
ſelf in Conftantinople, and the Iſlands of the Archi
pelago. It is not ſtrange that the Turks are ſo weak
at Sea, becaufe they want good Mariners, ſkilful
Pilots, and experienced Officers. The Pilots of
the Grand Signior fcarcely know how to uſe the
Compaſs; and thofe of the Saicks, which are
their Merchant Ships, certainly underſtand no-
thing of it. They fteer by their Knowledge of
the Coafts, which is very erroneous; and they
generally truft themſelves in long Voyages, as to
Syria and Egypt, to Greeks, who have run the
Courfe with Chriftian Privateers, and have got
the Track of the Countries of Afia and Africa by
rote. However, if the Turks would apply them-
felves to Navigation, they would eaſily become
Maſters of the Mediterranean, and would chafe a-
way the Corfairs, who do fo much Miſchief to
their Traffick. Without reckoning the Supplies
they might draw from Greece, the Ifles of the
Archipelago, Egypt, and the Coaſt of Africk, the
Black Sea alone would furnish them with more
Wood and Rigging than are needful even for a
very formidable Navy. At prefent the Maritime
Forces of this great Empire are reduced to twenty
eight or thirty Men of War, and they arm out
not above fifty Gallies. The Turks had much
more powerful Fleets in the time of Mahomet II.
of Selimus, and of Solyman II. but they never made
any great Expeditions. Since the War of Candia,
they have mightily neglected the Sea, and perhaps
would have done fo much more, if Mizomorto,
the Captain-baffa, had not in our Days reftor'd
and improv'd their Navy. The Advantage which
aroſe by the Sea to the Ilands of Spalmadori under
the Venetians, made him fet a wonderful value
upon the Iſland of Scio, and gave the Mahometans
freſh Spirits. He was a Man of extraordinary
Capacity for the Sea, and try'd all Methods to
engage
Of the Government of the Turks.
279
engage Chriſtian Officers in the Grand Signior's
Service. The Sultan may now have fix or ſeven
Renegado Captains, who are well experienc❜d;
but the Seamen know nothing of the Tackle, and
the Gunners are miſerable to the laft degree. The
Succeffor of Mizomorto was but little eſteem'd.
Adrama Baſka, who was nam'd for Admiral upon
the Death of the other, was able to have brought
the Condition of the Turkish Navy to Perfection,
if fome who envy'd him, had not got him *
ftrangled a little after his Promotion. He was
known among the Turks, by the Name of the
Baffa of Rhodes, and among the Chriftians, by
that of the Butcher's Son of Marfeilles. He was
taken very young in a Ship belonging to that
City, and was fo unhappy as to turn Mahometan.
He had the Character among the Turks of a very
upright Man, and very difintereſted. It is faid,
that as he was going the Round one Day, to
execute Juftice at Scio, he afk'd to whom three
or four She-affes belong'd, who were loaded with
weighty Stones, and were ty'd to the Door of
a certain Houfe; and underſtanding their Maſters
were hard by at Breakfaſt, he paſs'd on; but at
his Return, being diſturb'd to find the poor Crea-
tures were ſtill in the fame Condition, and
that no Care had been taken to feed them,
he fent for their Owners, and told them, it
was but juſt that the Affes fhould eat in their
turn: the Peaſants readily affented; but were
furpriz'd, when he order'd each of them to
bear one of the Stones upon his Back all the
time the Affes were eating. The fame Story
is alſo told concerning Sultan Morat.
* January, 1706. The Pretence was, that he had not
been ready enough in extinguishing a Fire which had hurt
Some Houfes by the Arenal.
T 4
The
280 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
The Poſt of Captain-baffa is one of the no-
bleft in the Empire. He is great Admiral
and General of the Gallies: his Power is ab-
folute, when he is out of the Dardanelles ; fo
that he can ſtrangle the Viceroys and Gover-
nors who are on board, without waiting for
the Sultan's Order. The Grand Vifier is the
only Miniſter, who is above him. It is the fe-
cond Poſt in the Empire, and he is account-
able to the Grand Signior alone. Not only
the Sea-officers, but all the Governors of the
Maritime Provinces likewife receive Orders from
him. At Conftantinople there are not above 28
or 30 Men of War.
The Gallies are diftinguiſh'd into two Claff
es; namely, thofe of Conftantinople, and thoſe
of the Archipelago: thofe of Conftantinople are
at Sea only in the Summer. At the clofe of
the Campaign they are difarm'd, to be laid
up in the Arfenal of Caffum Baja: the greater
part of the Beys or Captains are Renegades.
Befides the Body of the Gally, Artillery, and
Bifket, the Emperor alfo allows them Pay, and
the reft of their Equipage, which confifts of
200 Oars, and a Boat to go on Shore. If
the Captains are rich enough to fubfift their
Slaves who row, they make a confiderable Pro-
fit, for they are allow'd twelve thouſand Livres
for Rowers, and make an Advantage alfo of
the Journeys, in which they employ their Slaves
by Land, during the other part of the Year.
When there are not Rowers enough, they prefs
the Slaves of private Men at Conftantinople:
but very little Service is done by theſe poor
Wretches, who have no Experience, and periſh
moſt of them at Sea. You well know, my
Lord, the Service of the Sea requires much
more Practice than that of the Land. To
reinforce
Of the Government of the Turks. 281
reinforce the Soldiers of the Gallies, the Turks
add fome of the Janizaries.
The Gallies of the Archipelago are obliged
to be in a readineſs to put to Sea at all times.
The Captains are paid by Affignments upon
the Iſlands, and are bound to find their own
Slaves, and pay them; for the Grand Sig-
nior allows them only the Veffel, Artillery, and
Rigging. They avoid an Engagement all they
can, in order to preſerve their Slaves; and moſt
of them have neither the number of Gallies they
ought to maintain, nor their Equipage compleat,
becauſe the Captain-baffa, for a Sum of Money
(which the others know proper ways enough to
hand to him) often winks at it; confequently the
Military Diſcipline is very indifferently obferv'd.
The Beys of Rhodes and Scio ought to provide
feven Gallies for each Ifland: he of Cyprus fix:
thofe of Mytelene, Negropont, Salonica, and Caval,
one apiece: Andros and Syra only one; and Naxos
and Paros the like. The Captain-baffa fails round
the Archipelago in the Summer, to raiſe the Capi-
tation-tax, and learn the State of Affairs which
have happen'd. He commonly holds his Days
of Audit in a Port of Paros, call'd Drio, which
is the Center, as it were, of the Archipelago. The
Officers of the Iflands repair thither to make their
Prefents to him, and pay in the Sums at which
each Ifland is tax'd. Here alfo the Captain-baffa
finally judges all Matters, as well civil as cri-
minal. I am,
1
My LORD,
Your moſt bumble and
moſt obedient Servant,
TOURNEFORT.
LET
[282]
LETTER
VII.
To Monfeigneur the Count de Pontchartrain,
Secretary of State, &c.
MY LORD,
Of the Religi
on, Manners,
IND
N my laſt I had the honour to
inform you concerning the Go-
and Customs vernment and Polity of the Turks;
of the Turks. and in this I fhall fpeak of their Re-
ligion, Manners, and Cuftoms.
Of all falfe Religions the Mahometan is the moſt
dangerous, becauſe itnot only ſtrongly flatters the
Senfes, but in many Points alfo agrees with Chri-
ſtianity. Mahometiſm is founded upon the Know-
ledge of the true God, the Creator of all things,
upon the Love of one's Neighbour, the Purifica-
tion of the Body, and a quiet peaceable Life. It
abhors Idols, and the Worſhip of them is ſtrictly
prohibited.
Birth of Ma-
homet.
Mahomet was born an Idolater a-
mong the Arabs, Ann. 570. He had
naturally a Fund of good Senfe. God
forbid, I fhould defire to make an Encomium on
him here; but I know not how to avoid looking
upon him as an extraordinary Genius, and admire
how fuch a Man could be able, without the Af
fiftance of Grace, to recover himſelf from Idola-
try. They fay, Sergius, a Neftorian Monk,
who ran away from Conftantinople, contributed to
difabufe him from the Errors of Paganifm; and
Mahomet fhook off fo great a Prejudice, and open'd
his Eyes to diſcern the Truth.
It appears by the Alcoran, that theſe two Men
have taken out of the holy Scripture what they
thought convenient to their Purpofe; but as in
their
The Religion and Manners of the Turks. 283
their time there were far more Jews in Arabia
than Chriftians, they follow'd the New Teftament
lefs than the Old, that fo they might engage
the Jews in their Sect, without too far neglecting
the Chriftians. If Mahomet had not had the Folly
to affect to pafs for the Meffenger of God, his Re-
ligion had not differ'd from Socinianifm; but he
had a Fancy to play an extraordinary Part, in
making People believe he had a Correfpondence
with the fuperior Beings. As he had neither a
Miffion, nor a Gift of Miracles, he was oblig'd,
in order to eſtabliſh his Syſtem, to join Craft and
Knavery to Reafon. His Enthufiafms, whether
they were diffembled, or really Fits of an Epi-
lepſy, perfuaded the Multitude, that he was infi-
nitely above other Men, and infpir'd from Hea-
His Wife and his Friends boaſted he was
the Interpreter of the Lord, and was fent into
the World on purpoſe to publiſh his Orders. The
Pigeon which he had taught to flutter about his
Head, contributed not a little to ſupport the My-
ftery: this Bird pafs'd for the Angel Gabriel, who
came to whiſper Meffages in his Ear.
ven.
That he might not ftartle the Idolaters too
much, he choſe to appear neither a Jew nor a
Chriftian; and to ingratiate himſelf with both the
laft, he adopted part of the Faith of each into
his Doctrine. He taught there were three forts
of written Laws communicated to Men by the
Lord, and in which they might be fav'd; be-
cauſe they were enjoin'd by all of them to believe
in one only God, the Creator and Judge of all
Men. The first Law, he faid, was given to
Moſes; but as it was too burdenfom, few Per-
fons were able to fulfil it ftrictly. The fecond is
that of Jeſus Chriſt; which, tho' it is full of Grace,
is very difficult to be obferv'd, by reafon of its
Oppofition to corrupted Nature. On this Ac-
count,
284 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
count, continued he, the Lord, who abounds in
Mercy, has fent you, by my Miniſtry, a Law
eafy and proportion'd to your Weakneſſes; that
fo by following this exactly, every one may be
able to attain Happineſs in this World, and in
the next.
As I do not underſtand the Genius of the A-
rabian Language, nor its Delicacies, the Alcoran
ſeems to me a Book very ill compos'd, which
among fome good things, contains a world of
childish and frivolous Tales. Notwithſtanding
which, the Mahometan Religion, as to fome
Trifles, refpecting the Care every one ought to
take of his Body, feems very fenfibly defign'd.
Perhaps to engage the Imagination of Idolaters,
which was accuftom'd to Figures of Wood and
Stone, Mahomet thought it was neceffary to footh
them with agreeable Images taken from the other
World; and that, in order to come at them by
Reaſon, he muft enter into their Tafte, by pro-
mifing fenfual Pleaſures after Death to People,
who, in their Life-time, were acquainted with no
others. This Book, fuch as it is, comprehends
all the Laws Ecclefiaftical and Civil of the Ma-
hometans, and teaches them whatever they ought
to believe and practife. They never offer to
open it, without having firft laid it upon their
Head, which with then is the higheſt Token of
Veneration they can give; and their chief Em-
ployment is to read it, according to that Precept
in it, Apply yourſelves often to read the Book which
is fent you, and pray incessantly, for Prayer turns a-
way Sin. They are perfuaded that thoſe who read
it over fo many times, make fure of Paradiſe. In
a word, they call it, The Book, by way of Excel-
lence for Alcoran fignifies nothing but The
Scripture.
It
The Religion and Manners of the Turks. 285
It is needleſs to relate here, how this Book was
compos'd at firſt, and how it was reform'd after
Mahomet's Death: it is fufficient to remark, that
there are four Sects among the Mahometans. The
moſt ſuperſtitious is that of the Arabians, who ad-
here to the Traditions of Abubeker. That of the
Perfians, which was founded by Hali, is the moſt
refin'd; but the Turks, who follow that of Omer,
treat them as Hereticks, and pronounce Anathe-
ma's againſt them. The fimpleft of all is that of
the Tartars, who follow Odeman or Ofman, the
chief Compiler of the Memoirs of Mahomet.
The only Article of Faith the Mahometans
have, is, that there is but one God, and that
Mahomet is the Meffenger of God. As to the
Commandments, the Turks reduce them to five.
1. To pray five times a Day. 2. To faſt in
Lent. 3. To give Alms, and do Works of Cha-
rity. 4. To go in Pilgrimage to Mecha. 5. To
fuffer no Filth upon their Body. There are four
other Points added, but they are not abfolutely
neceffary to Salvation. 1. To keep Friday a Sab-
bath. 2. To be circumcis'd. 3. To drink no
Wine. 4. Not to eat Swine's Fleſh, nor Things
ftrangled.
The Mahometans regard Friday above the
other Days of the Week, becauſe they believe
it was upon a Friday that Mahomet being per-
fecuted by the Idolaters, was forced to fave him-
felf by flying from Mecha to Medina in Arabia.
It is from this Day the Mahometan Æra begins,
which they call Egire; and this celebrated Friday
fell upon July 22, in the Year 622, from the
Death of Jefus Chrift. They are oblig'd to
go every Friday at Noon to the Mofque to
Prayers; but the Women are excus'd, for fear
they ſhould occaſion diſtraction to the Men. The
Tradefmen keep their Shops fhut this Day till
Noon,
286 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
Noon, and fuch as are pretty rich, do not
open them till the Morrow.
Circumcifion, and Abftinence from Swine's
Fleſh and Things ftrangled, were perhaps infert-
ed in their Law, merely in complaifance to the
Jews, who were then as much courted by the
Mahometans, as they have fince been defpis'd.
The Publick Good fed their Legiflator to for-
bid the Uſe of Wine to his Difciples. Abſtain,
fays he, from Wine, and Games of Chance, and
from Chefs; these are the Invention of the Devil,
to fow Hatred and Divifion among Men, to keep
them from Prayer, and hinder their calling upon
the Name of God. Notwithstanding, they con-
feſs Wine is an excellent thing, and that the
Temptation of it is fo inviting, that it makes
the Sin very pardonable. They laugh at us
who drink it with Water, and fay, that fince
it is mix'd in drinking, one ſhould fatisfy one's
Appetite, and not provoke it,
not provoke it. With reſpect
to Swine's Fleſh, the Turks have it in abhor-
rence; but the Perfians look upon Abſtinence
from it rather as a Counſel than a Command.
They eat it, or forbear, as they alſo do by
Wine, according to the Practice of the Sultan,
whofe Tafte is follow'd blindly by the whole
Empire. It is a pleaſure to Travellers, when
they enter the King of Perfia's Territories, that
they can drink Wine without making a Secret.
of it, and can fee whole Herds of Swine in
the Fields. The Perfians who dwell upon the
Borders, know the Chriftians fo well, that they
run out to them as fast as they can, with Bot-
tles of Wine and Hams, when they ſpy a
Caravan.
As for Circumcifion, the Turks efteem it rather
as a Mark of Obedience to their Religion, than
as an effential Law: there is nothing faid of
this
The Religion and Manners of the Turks. 287
this Ceremony in the Alcoran, and it is rather a
Tradition borrow'd from the Jews. The Maho-
metans are of opinion, that Children dying with-
out Circumcifion are nevertheleſs fav'd; and they
break their little Finger, before they bury them,
to denote they have not been circumcis'd. The
moft fcrupulous (as there are fome fuch in all Re-
ligions) believe the Circumcifion of their Father
has an Effect upon them; but thoſe who pretend
to know the fundamental Points of their Religion
better, agree, that Circumcifion had not been eſta-
blifh'd, but to put the Mahometans in mind,
thro' the rest of their Life, of what they promis'd
to God by their Profeffion of Faith, namely,
that there is no God but God, and that Mahomet
is the Meffenger of God; and that for this rea-
fon Children ought not to be circumcis'd till the
Age of 12 or 14 Years, that fo they may attend
to what is done. Some of their Doctors believe
Circumcifion was not taken from the Jews, but
only for the better obferving the Precept of Clean-
nefs, by which they are forbidden to let any Urine
fall upon their Flefh. And it is certain, that
fome Drops are always apt to hang upon the Pre-
putium, eſpecially among the Arabians, with whom
that Skin is naturally much longer than in other
Men. At prefent moſt Renegades are not cir-
cumcis'd; it is thought enough to make them
lift up their Finger, and pronounce the Words
which exprefs the Profeffion of their Faith. Per-
haps it is out of Contempt that they do not cir-
cumcife them; for the Turks have a common
Saying, That a bad Chriftian will never make a
good Turk.
The Turkiſh Girls are not touch'd by The Ceremony
circumcifing, but in Perfia they cut of Circumci
off the Nympha. Upon the Day of fon.
the Circumcifion, in Turkey a Feaft is made for
the
288
AVOY AGE into the Levant.
the Relations of the Child, who is to be circum-
cis'd. He is drefs'd as handfomly as may be,
and is led upon a Horfe or a Camel, to the Sound
of Inftruments, thro' the whole Town, if it is of
a moderate Compaſs; or thro' a Quarter of it
only, if it is very large. He holds an Arrow
in his right Hand with the Point toward his
Heart, to fhew he would fooner pierce that Part,
than renounce his Faith. His Comrades, his
Friends, and Neighbours follow him on foot,
finging his Praiſes with Tokens of Joy, to the
Mofque, where the Iman, after a fhort Exhorta-
tion, cauſes him to make a Profeffion of Faith and
lift up his Finger: after which he orders the Sur-
geon appointed, to place him upon a Sopha, and
perform the Operation. Two Servants hold a
Napkin fpread out before the Child; and the
Surgeon having drawn the Foreſkin as low as he
can, without prejudice, he holds it with his Pin-
cers, and cuts it with a Razor, and fhewing it to
the Affiftants, cries with a loud Voice, God is great:
The Child roars out all the while, for the Pain is
very acute every one comes to congratulate him
upon his being admitted into the Rank of Mufful-
men, that is, the Faithful.
If the Relations are rich, they caufe the Chil-
dren of the Poor in their Neighbourhood to be
circumcis'd at their own Charge. After the
Ceremony, they retire in the fame Order as they
came, and march as in Triumph to the Relations
Houſe, who treat all who come for three Days.
The Expence is only a large Kettle of Rice a
Day, fome pieces of Beef and Mutton, and ſome
Hens nor is the Coft much in Liquors; for the
whole Company is fatisfy'd with one great Jar of
Water. The Rich entertain with Sherbet, Cof-
fee, and Tobacco, and the Relations make Pre-
fents to the poor Boys who were circumcis'd with
their
The Religion and Manners of the Turks. 289
their Son: they give Alms alfo to the Poor of
their Pariſh. After they have well danced and
fung, the Gueſts, in their turn, make Preſents to
the new Muffulman. At the Houfes of Perſons
of Diſtinction they give Veſts, Arms, and Horſes.
When one of the Grand Signior's Children is
circumcis'd, there are publick Rejoicings, and all
the Artillery of the Seraglio is diſcharged: Courfes
are run in the Atmeidan, and other Places: Gam-
bols are play'd in the Streets, and all the Diver-
fions of the Bairam renew'd.
It is worthy remarking, that the Iman does
not name the new-circumcis'd; but their Father
gives them what Name he will, at the time when
they are born. He holds the new-born Infant in
his Arms, and lifting it up towards Heaven, to
offer it up to God, he puts a Grain of Salt into
its Mouth, and fays, God grant, my Son Solyman,
(for inſtance) that his holy Name may always be as
favoury to thee as this Salt, and that it may keep thee
from tafting the Things of the Earth. Their Names
are generally Ibrahim or Abraham; Solyman, which
fignifies Soloman; Ifouph, Jofeph; Ifmael, hearing
God; Mahomet, Laudable; Mahmud, Defirable;
Scander, Alexander; Sophy, Holy; Haly, High;
Selim, Peaceable; Mustapha, Sanctify'd; Achmet,
Good; Amurat or Mourat, Living; Seremeth,
Diligent.
From the Counfels I pafs to the Command-
ments. The Muffulmen are fo convinced that
their Prayers are the Keys of Paradiſe, and the
Pillars of Religion, as they ſay, that they apply
themſelves to them with a Care and Attention ex-
tremely edifying. Nothing can excuſe them from
praying; and it is enjoin'd them, that when they
are in the Army, they fhall call up one another
to pray, all the time their Comrades are under
Arms. Let them, fays the Alcoran, who go to
Vol. II.
U
pray,
290
AVOYAGE into the Levant.
pray, not be drunk, but ſober, and have their Mind
free, that they may know what they ought to do, and
what they ought to say. It is faid alfo in the fame
Book, that they who pray with a diſorder'd Spi-
rit, and without thinking what they are about,
tho' they ſeem to do a good Act, have nothing of
the Love of God in them.
As the Turks believe that what defiles the Body,
is capable alfo of defiling the Soul; fo they are
perfuaded, that what purifies the one, has a power
in like manner to purify the other. Upon this
Principle, which is directly contrary to that of
many Chriftians, they prepare themſelves for
Prayer by Ablutions. Good People, fays the Alco-
ran, when ye would fay your Prayers, ye must wash
your Face, your Hands, your Arms, and your Feet.
In like manner the married Perfons, who have
lain together, muft, bathe. If the Sick and the
Travellers can get no Water, let them rub their
Face and Hands very clean with Powder; for
God loves Cleanlinefs: He would have the Pray-
ers we make to him, perfect, that we ſhould thank
him for the Favours he beſtows on us, and often
call upon his holy Name.
Turks.
The great Ab- The Mahometans have reduced the
lution of the Duty of this Commandment to two
Ablutions; the great, and the fmall.
The firſt is of the whole Body, but this is enjoin'd
only to married People, who have lain together;
to thoſe who have had any Pollution in their
Sleep, or who have let fome 'Urine drop upon
their Fleſh when they made Water. Theſe are
the three grand Defilements of the Muffulmen.
That nothing may be cover'd from the Water,
which ought to purify their Body and their Soul,
and that it may enter the better, they pare their
Nails very carefully, and take off the Hair from
all Parts, except the Chin. The great Ablution
confifts
The Religion and Manners of the Turks. 291
confifts in plunging themſelves three times under
Water, let the Seaſon be as fevere as it will. I
have ſeen Turks in the depth of Winter leave the
Caravan to throw themſelves ftark naked into the
Brooks which were on the fide of the Road, with-
out catching either the Cholick or Pleurify after
which, they came and join'd the Company again
with fuch an Air of Tranquility, as is feen in the
Face of Perfons whofe Confcience is at peace.
When they find a warm Spring, they wafh them-
felves in it with pleafure. In moſt rich People's
Houſes there are Tubs, which are fill'd with Wa-
ter every Morning, to make the Grand Ablution.
In our Paffage from Scio to Conftantinople there
was an honeft Muffulman among us, who gave
three Pence a time to two Mariners, to take him
down by the Ship's fide, and plunge him thrice
into the Sea, as cold as it was.
In order to make the lefs Ablution, The lefs Ablu-
they turn their Face towards Mecha, tion of the
and waſh their Hands and their Arms Turks.
as high as the Elbow, and rince their Mouth
three times, and clean their Teeth with a Bruſh.
After this they are obliged to waſh the Nofe
thrice, and ſquirt thro' the Noftrils fome Water,
which they drink up out of the hollow of the Hand:
they alſo ſprinkle their Face three times: they are
enjoin'd to rub themſelves from the Forehead down
to the lower part of the Head with the right
Hand thrice; from whence they pafs to the Ears,
which they muſt make very clean within and with-
out; and the Ceremony concludes with the Feet.
Mahomet might fay, if he pleas'd, that his
Law was eafy to be practis'd; but, for my part,
I thought it troubleſome enough, and make no
queſtion but moft of the Renegadoes break thro'
thefe Trifles. When they make Water, they fquat
down like Women, for fear fome Drops of Urine
U 2
fhould
$
292 AVOYAGE into the Levant.
ſhould fall into their Breeches. To prevent this Evil,
they ſqueefe the Part very carefully, and rub the
Head of it againſt the Wall; and one may fee
the Stones worn in feveral Places by this Cuftom.
To make themfelves fport, the Chriftians fmeer the
Stones fometimes with Indian Pepper, and the Root
call'd Calfs-foot, or fome other hot Plants, which
frequently cauſes an Inflammation in fuch as hap-
pen to uſe the Stone. As the Pain is
As the Pain is very fmart,
the poor Turks commonly run for a Cure to thoſe
very Chriſtian Surgeons, who were the Authors
of all the Miſchief: they never fail to tell them
it is a very dangerous Cafe, and that they ſhould
be obliged perhaps to make an Amputation: the
Turks, on the contrary, proteſt and ſwear they
have had no Communication with any fort of
Woman that could be fufpected. In fhort, they
wrap up the fuffering Part in a Linen dipp'd in
Oxicrat, tinctur'd with a little Bole-armenic; and
this they fell them as a great Specifick for this
kind of Miſchief.
When they go to ſtool either at home or in the
Field, they furniſh themſelves with two large
Cloths, which they carry at their Girdle, or across
their Shoulders, juft as a Butler carries a Napkin;
they alſo take a Pot of Water in their Hand,
which ferves to make the Tabarat, that is, to
waſh themſelves below with their Finger. The
Grand Signior himſelf cannot difpenfe with this
Cuftom: it is the firft Leffon his Governor teaches
him. We may prefume, that after this Operation
the Turks muſt waſh and ſcour the tops of their
Fingers frequently. Nor is this the only Incon-
venience; for there are a great many things which
annul this Ablution, and oblige them to begin it
anew as for inftance, if they happen to break
wind; but it is an infufferable Misfortune, if a
Man has a Loofenefs, for in that cafe this Ablu-
tion,
The Religion and Manners of the Turks. 293
tion, which muſt be perpetually repeated, becomes
an exceffive Burden. I have heard the Turks fay,
that one of the principal reafons which hinders
them from travelling into Chriſtian Countries, is,
becauſe they cannot have Conveniences to perform
thefe Duties.
As to a particular Ablution, that muſt be done
for the leaft Fault; as, for having blown their
Noſe with their right Hand; for having waſh'd
the Parts of the Body more than three times; for
having us'd on this occafion Water warm'd in the
Sun. It is the fame alfo, if they happen to throw
the Water upon their Face with too much Vio-
lence; if Blood or any Ordure falls upon their
Body; if they Vomit, if they fall into a Swoon,
if they drink Wine, or fleep at Prayers: in a
word, if they touch a Dog, or any other unclean
Animal. All thefe Reafons cauſe them to build
Refervatories, and Fountains, and Turn-cocks a-
bout their Moſques, or in their Houles. Upon
want of Water, they are permitted to make ufe
of Sand, Powder, or fome Plants proper to cleanfe
themſelves with. [b] Rablais's Chapter, which
carries a pleaſant Title, would be a wonderful
Relief to them, if it was tranflated into their
Language.
After they have purify'd themſelves, the Turks
fix their Eyes on the Ground, and retire ſeriouſly
inward, in order to difpofe themſelves for their
Prayer, which they make five times a Day. 1. In
the Morning, between the Break of Day and
Sun-rifing. 2. At Noon. 3. Between Noon and
Sun-fet. 4. At Sun-fet. About an Hour and
a half after the Sun is down. All theſe Prayers
are accompanied with many Bowings, and fome
Proftrations, They may make their Prayers
either at home or in the Mofques; and they have
[6] B. 1. c. 13.
5.
U 3
notice
294 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
notice given them of the Hours appointed for
this Exercife, by Men hir'd on purpoſe, who
guide themſelves by the Courſe of the Sun, or by
an Hour-glaſs. Theſe Fellows are a fort of ſpeak-
ing Clocks, for at fet Hours they go up to the
Galleries of the Pinacles, and ſtopping their Ears
with their Fingers, bawl out as loudly as they are
able, the following Words; God is great, there is
no other God but God: come to the Prayer, I fummon
you with a clear Voice. They repeat thefe Words
four times, turning themfelves firſt to the South,
then to the North; after that to the Eaft, and
laſtly to the Weſt.
:
At this Signal every one makes his Purification,
and then goes to the Mofque, at the Door of
which they put off their Shoes, unleſs they chufe
to take them with them in their Hand, for fear
they fhou'd be mix'd with thoſe of others who
come there. All this
All this is done with a profound Si-
lence. They falute with a deep Reverence the Nich
were the Alcoran is placed, and this Place is direct-
ed toward Mecha. After this, every one lifts
up his
Eyes, and puts his Thumbs into his Ears before
he fits down the very Manner of fitting down is
alſo the moſt humble among them that can be, for
they fit upon the Calf of the Leg: they continue
thus for fome time, and caft down their Eyes,
and kiſs the Earth thrice : after this they take their
Seats, and wait for the Prieft to begin, whom
they follow, and make the fame Inclinations as he
does. It is at this time, that their Decency is
moſt admirable: they falute no body, nor dare
to hold diſcourſe, nor take notice of any one, who-
ever it is, nor mind what paffes. The whole Af-
fembly is unmov'd; no one either fpits, or coughs:
in fine, they give no token of Life, but by fome
profound Sighs, which are rather the Afpirations
of the Soul towards God, than mechanical Mo-
tions
The Religion and Manners of the Turks. 295
tions of the Body. Amidft thefe Sighs the Prieft
ſtands up, and ſpreads his Hands upon his Head,
ftops his Ears with his Thumbs, and lifting
his Eyes towards Heaven, fings with a loud and
diftinct Voice, God is great: Glory to thee, O Lord:
may thy Name be bleffed and praised: may thy Great-
nefs be acknowledged, for there is no other God be-
fides thee.
This is the Prayer which they commonly repeat
with their Eyes turn'd down, and their Hands a-
crofs their Stomach. They alfo uſe the following
Prayer, which is the fame to them, as the Lord's
Prayer is to us.
In the Name of God, full of Goodness and Mercy!
Praifed be God, the Lord of the World, who is one
God, full of Goodness and Mercy. Lord, who fhalt
judge all Men, we worship thee, we place our whole
Truft in thee. Preferve us, who call upon thee, in
the right way, which thou hast chofen, and doft fa-
vour with thy Acceptance. It is not the way of the
Infidels, nor of thofe against whom thou art juſtly in-
cens'd. So be it.
After this, they make the Inclinations, and reſt
their Hands upon their Knees, which are half
bent, and make this Prayer: God is great: Glory
to thee, O Lord, &c. or elſe they fay three times,
Let the Name of the Lord be glorified. Then they
proftrate themſelves again, kiffing the Ground
twice, and crying out as often, O great God, may
thy Name be glorify'd. They alfo recite that Prayer,
In the name of God, full of Goodness and Mercy,
&c. To which they add the following Article
out of the Alcoran : I acknowledge that God is God,
that God is eternal, that be neither begot, nor is begot-
ten, and has none who is like him or equal to him.
After having made the Inclinations which the
Hour of Prayer requires, they raiſe themſelves
half up, refting ftill upon their Feet; and cafting
their
U 4
296 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
their Eyes upon their Hands, fpread open like a
Book, they pronounce the following Words:
Adoration and Prayers are due only to God. Salva
tion and Peace be to thee, O Prophet. The Mercy,
the Bleffings, and the Peace of the Lord be upon us
and upon the Servants of God. I declare there is but one
God, that he has no Companion, and that Mahomet
is the Meffenger of God.
They cloſe their Prayers with the Salutation of
the two Angels, who, they believe, are at their
Side. In performing this Duty, they take hold
on their Beard, and turn it to the right hand and
to left. One of thefe Angels, they imagine, is
white, and the other black. The white, as they
believe, excites them to do Good, and keeps a
Regiſter of their good Actions; and the black
rules over their evil Actions, to accufe them for
them after their Death. In faluting each Angel,
they fay, The Salvation and the Mercy of God be
upon thee. They believe alfo that their Prayers
will not be heard, unless they firft refolve firmly
to forgive their Enemies. It is for this reaſon,
that they never let a Friday pafs without making
a hearty Reconciliation; and hence it is, that we
never hear of any Detraction or Injury among
the Turks.
The Friday Prayers are defign'd for invoking
the Grace of God upon all Muffulmen. On Sa-
turday they pray for the Converfion of the Jews,
and on Sunday for that of the Chriftians'; on
Monday for the Prophets; on Tueſday for the
Priefts, and for them who honour the Saints in
this World; on Wedneſday for the Dead, and
for the Muffulmen who are in Slavery among the
Infidels; on Thurſday for the whole World, of
whatever Nation, and of whatever Religion. The
Mofques are most frequented upon Friday, and are
better
The Religion and Manners of the Turks. 297
better illuminated, and the Prayers are made with
the greateſt Solemnity.
We never faw them at Prayer in the Mofques,
becauſe the Chriftians are not fuffer'd to enter
while any Muffulman is there; but we have feen
them at Prayer in the Caravans. The Chief of
the Caravans, knowing what Hour it is by the
Elevation of the Sun, ftops them, and calls them
to Prayers, exactly like the ordinary Chanters.
The Chriftians and the Jews wait by on horſe-
back, if they pleaſe, or elſe ride out during the
time. Every Muffulman fpreads his Carpet on
the Ground, and makes the Inclinations, and
fays over the Prayers. Very often the Chief of
the Caravan fupplies the Place of the Prieft; but
if they light upon a Derviſe, as they commonly
do in the Caravans of Afia, he exercifes the Fun-
ction. All this is done in the middle of the Field,
with the fame Attention and Decency, as if they
were in a Mofque. When there are but two or
three Turks in a Caravan, one fhall fee them ftep
afide out of the Road to pray, and then put on
full speed to get up to the Company. Nothing
can be more exemplary than theſe Exerciſes; and
it has rais'd the utmoft Indignation in me againſt
the Greeks, who commonly live like fo many
Brutes.
Beſides the daily Prayers I have mention'd, the
Turks refort to the Mofques at Midnight in Lent,
to make the following Prayer:
Lord God, who paſſeft by our Faults; thou who
alone oughtest to be lov'd and honour'd; who art great
and vittorious; who ordereft the Night and the Day;
who pardoneſt our Offences, and cleanfeft our Hearts;
who fheweft Mercy, and difpenfeft thy Benefits to thy
Servants; adorable Lord, we have not honour'd thee
as thou oughtest to be honour'd. Great God, who de-
ferveft that we should ſpeak of nothing but thee; we
have
298 AVOYAGE into the Levant.
have not spoken of thee fo worthily as we ought.
Great God, whom we ought to thank continually, we
have not given thee fufficient Thanks. Merciful God,
all Wifdom, all Goodness, all Virtue come from thee:
it is of thee we must feek Forgiveness and Mercy.
There is no God but God. He is one only. He has
no Companion. Mahomet is the Meflenger of God.
My God, let thy Bleffing be upon Mahomet, and upon
the Race of Muffulmen.
The Turkish Lent takes its Name
The Lent of from the Month in which it falls, which
the Turks.
is the Moon of Ramazan or Ramadan,
for they always reckon by Moons. Their Year
confifts of 354 Days, divided into twelve Moons
or Months, which begin upon the new Moon:
theſe Months contain alternately 30 Days and 31.
The firft of them, which has 30 Days, is call'd
Muharrem; the fecond Sefer, and contains but 29
Days; the third Rebiul-euvel; the fourth Rebiul-
abbir; the fifth Giamazil-euvil; the fixth Giama-
zil-abbir; the ſeventh Regeb; the eighth Chaban ;
the ninth Ramazan or Ramadan; the tenth Chuval;
the eleventh Zouleudé; the twelfth Zoulbigé. Thefe
Months do not follow the Seaſons, becauſe they
do not agree to the Courfe of the Sun; and their
Years have twelve Days fewer than ours: the Ra-
mazan falls higher every Year the fame number of
Days: from whence it comes, that in fome Years
it runs thro' all the Seafons.
The Lent was appointed in the Month of Ra
mazan, becauſe Mahomet declar'd the Alcoran was
fent to him from Heaven at that time. The Faft
which it ordains, is different from ours, in that it
is abfolutely prohibited, during the whole Courfe
of that Moon, to eat, or drink, or take any thing
into their Mouth, or even to ſmoke, from Sun-
rifing till its fetting. To make amends, while
the Night continues, they are allow'd to eat and
drink
The Religion and Manners of the Turks. 299
drink without diftinction of Meats or Drinks, ex-
cepting only Wine; for it would be a high Crime
to taſte this, and formerly the Crime could be ex-
piated only by pouring melted Lead down the
Offender's Throat: at prefent they are not fo fe-
vere, tho' they ftill puniſh it corporally. In the
Night alſo they never ſpare Aquavita, during this
time of Penitence; and much lefs the Sherbet
and the Coffee: and there are fome, who under a
pretence of Penitence indulge themſelves more de-
liciouſly than all the reſt of the Year. Self-love,
which is always ingenious, prompts them at this
time to enjoy good Cheer, in a Seafon appointed
for Mortification: the Devotees comfort their
Stomachs with Sweetmeats, tho' they are made
ordinarily of Honey and Rofin. The Rich ob-
ferve Lent as ftrictly as the Poor, and the Soldiers
as the Religious, and the Sultan himſelf as the
meaneft private Man. In the Day-time they take
their Repoſe, and mind nothing but to ſleep, or at
leaſt to fhun the Exerciſes which occafion Drought;
for it is an intolerable Puniſhment not to be able to
drink Water amidſt fuch exceffive Heats. Labour-
ers, and Travellers, and Country-people fuffer very
much it is true, they are excus'd in breaking
Lent, provided they keep an account of the Days,
and faft the fame number afterwards, when
their Affairs permit. Upon the whole matter,
Lent with the Mahometans is only living different.
ly from their ufual manner. When the Moon of
Chaban, which immediately precedes that of Ra
mazan, is pafs'd, they watch very carefully for the
New Moon. An infinite Croud of People of all
Conditions poſt themſelves upon the high places,
and run away to give notice of its Appearance:
fome do it out of Devotion, and others to obtain
a Reward. The very Moment they are affur'd of
the Fact, they publish it through the whole Town,
and
300 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
and begin to faft. In Places where there are any
Cannons, they fire one Round at Sun-fet. They
light up fuch a prodigious number of Lamps in
the Mofques, that they look like fo many Cha-
pels on fire: they take care alfo to make great Il-
luminations upon the Pinacles in the Night.
The Muezins at the return of the Moon, that
is, at the Cloſe of the firſt Day of the Faſt, pro-
claim with a loud Voice, it is then time to pray
and eat. The poor Mahometans, who are choked
with Thirſt, begin then to fwill off huge Draughts
of Water, and fall greedily to their Plates of
Rice. Every one refreſhes himſelf with the beſt
Provifion; and, as if they apprehended they ſhould
die with Hunger, they go out to eat abroad after
they have ftuff'd themfelves at home: fome run to
Coffee, others to Sherbet; and the more Charita-
ble give Victuals to ſuch as come. One may hear
the Poor cry in the Streets, I pray God fill their
Purfe, who give me fomething to fill my Belly. They
who think to improve their Pleafures, fatigue
themſelves in the Night as much as they can, that
they may reft the better in the Day, and paſs the
time of the Faft without trouble. They fmoke
then during the Darknefs, after they have eat
fufficiently, and play upon Inftruments, and have
Puppet-fhews by Lamp-light. All theſe Diver-
fions continue till the Morning is clear enough for
them to diftinguifh, as they fay, a white Thread
from a black: then they repofe themſelves, and
the Name of a Faft is given to undiſturb'd Slum-
ber, which continues till Night. None but fuch as
are forced by Neceffity, go about their ordinary
Work. Where is then, according to them, the
Spirit of Mortification, which ought to purify the
Souls of Muffulmen? Thofe who love a diforderly
Life, wifh this Penitential Seafon were to laſt half
the Year; and the more, becauſe it is follow'd
by
The Religion and Manners of the Turks. 301
by the grand Bairam, in which, by an agreeable
Alternative, they fleep all Night, and rejoice all
the Day.
About the end of the Moon Rama- The Bairam.
zan, they look out heedfully for that
of Chuval, and proclaim the Bairam as foon as
they perceive it. One hears then nothing but the
Sound of Drums and Trumpets in the Palaces
and publick Places. If the cloudy Weather
hinders their difcerning the New Moon, they
keep back the Feſtival for one Day; but if the
Clouds continue, they fuppofe there ought to be a
New Moon, and kindle Bonfires in the Streets.
The Women, who are ſhut up all the Year, have
the liberty of going abroad the three Days this
Feaft continues; and every where are feen Mufi-
cians, Flying-chairs, and Wheels of Fortune. In
theſe Chairs they are carry'd aloft in the Air, by
means of Cords which Men pull with more or lefs
Violence, as the Perfon chufes. The Wheels of
Fortune are like thofe of a Water-mill, and are
turn'd round, without thofe who are feated in
them, fo much as touching one another, tho' every
one finds himſelf in his turn at the top and at bot-
tom of the Wheel.
The firſt Day of Bairam the Muffulmen make
a general Reconciliation with one another, and
join Hands mutually in the Streets; and having
kifs'd thofe of their Enemies, they lay them upon
their Head. They wish one another a thoufand
Profperities, and fend Prefents as we do at the be-
ginning of the Year. The Preachers explain in
the Moſques fome Points of the Alcoran; and
after the Sermon, is fung the following Prayer:
Salvation and Bleſſing upon thee, Mahomet, Friend of
God. Salvation and Bleffing upon thee, Jefus Chrift,
the Breath of God. Salvation and Bleffing upon thee,
Mofes, the Familiar of God. Sėlvation and Bleſſing
upon
*
302
A VOYAGE into the Levant.
upon thee, David, the Monarch establifb'd by God. Sal-
vation and Bleſſing upon thee, Soloman, the faithful of
the Lord. Salvation and Bleſſing upon thee, Noah,
who wert ſaved by the Favour of God. Salvation and
Bleſſing upon thee, Adam, the Purity of God.
The Grand Signior appears more magnificent
upon this Day than ordinary; and receives the
Compliments of the Great Ones of the Port, and
gives them a fumptuous Repaft in the Hall of the
Divan. At his return from Sanita Sophia, they
fay, he mounts his Throne, having the Chief of
the White Eunuchs at his left Side. If the Sons of
the Cham of Tartary are at Court, they come
firſt of all to proftrate themſelves before him, and
withdraw not till they have kiſs'd his Hands, and
wifh'd him a happy Feftival. Then the Grand
Vifier prefents himſelf at the head of the Vice-
roys and Baffa's, who are in Town; and having
made his Compliment to the Sultan kneeling, he
kiffes his Hand, and takes the Place of the
Chief of the white Eunuchs. The Mufti, accom-
panied by the chief Justices, the head Cadi's, and
the moſt celebrated Preachers, and, in a word, by
all thoſe who are call'd the principal Officers of the
Faith, and by him who terms himself the Chief of
the Race of Mahomet; the Mufti, I fay, bowing
his Head to the Ground, and with his Hands in
his Girdle, goes to kifs the Sultan's Shoulder;
and they fay the Prince advances one Step to re-
ceive him. The Janizary-aga makes his Compli-
ment laſt of all, after the Officers who attended
the Mufti have made their Reverence. At the Re-
paſt the Grand Signior diftributes Vefts of Sable
to the prime Officers of the Port. All this is
tranfacted at the Entrance of the Seraglio. In the
inner Rooms of the Palace the Sultan receives the
Compliments of the chief Eunuchs and Waiters.
The Sultaneffes alſo come out of their Apartments,
and
The Religion and Manners of the Turks. 303
and are carried abroad with the Grand Signior
in the Coaches; but they faften the Coaches up
as carefully, as if they were carrying out fo many
Priſoners. I am inform'd, that during the three
Days the Women are permitted to come to the
Sultan, he is ferv'd only by black Eunuchs; the
Pages, and white Eunuchs, and in fhort, all whofe
Complexion is not black, being remov'd for all
that time. The Women alfo vifit one another,
after they have paid their Homage to the Emperor.
The Mahometans likewife obferve other Fefti-
vals during the reſt of the Year. I have given
your Lordship an Account of the fmaller Bairam
in my third Letter: this is folemniz'd the 70th
Day after the other, viz. upon the 10th of the
Moon of Zoulbigé; and the Pilgrims, who
go to
Mecha, order their Journey fo fkilfully, as to ar-
rive there the Evening before. The Turks celebrate
with Joy alfo the Night of Mabomer's Birth,
which is from the 11th to the 12th of the third
Month. They make the ufual Illuminations in
the Moſques and Pinacles of Conftantinople. The
Emperor goes to the new Mofque, where he
gives a Collation after Prayer, and orders Sweet-
meats and Drinks to be diftributed. Mabomet.
as the Muffulmen believe, was carried to Heaven
upon Alborac, the Night from the 26th to the
27th of the 4th Month, which is a Day of a high
Feftival with them. Two Months before the Ra-
mazan, they celebrate the Night from the 4th
to the 5th of the 7th Month, to put them in
mind that Lent is at hand. They never faft on
account of theſe Feafts; but on the contrary, after
having pray'd by Night in the Mofques, they go
in the Day-time to make merry at home, or with
their Friends.
The Turks do not wait for feftival Days to do
Works of Charity; for as Alms-giving is an in-
difpenfable
304 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
difpenfable Commandment with them, they efteeni
it the moft certain Means to increaſe their Store,
and draw down the Bleffing of Heaven upon their
Eſtates. They who read the Alcoran, fays Mahomet,
who pray, and who give of the Goods which God has
given them, either in publick or in private, may reſt
affur'd they shall lofe nothing thereby. They shall be
amply re-imburs'd for all they have given. God,
whom we ought always to glorify, pardons the Sins of
them who do Charity, and pays with Intereſt what-
ever is given in his Name. They are enjoin'd to
give Alms only in view of pleafing God, and not
from a Principle of Vanity. Lofe not the Gain, ye.
Rich, of your Alms, in feeking to have them feen: for
he who bestows them in order to have them feen, and
not with an Intention of rendering himself accepted of
the Lord in the Day of Judgment, is, with respect to
things of Heaven, as a Field full of Stones cover'd
with a little fhallow Duft, which the leaſt Rain waſhes
away, fo that nothing remains but the Stones.
The Mahometan Cafuifts are not agreed by
what Rules every one ought to proportion his
Alms. Some think it is fufficient to give one in
the Hundred of all one's Goods; others pretend,
they ought to lay by a fourth Part for the Poor;
but the moſt ſevere oblige them to give a tenth.
Beſides private Alms, there is no Nation which ex-
pends more upon publick Foundations than the
Turks. Even they who have but a moderate For-
tune, leave fomething after their Death, to main-
tain a Man to give Water in the Summer-heats to
drink to Paffengers, as they go along by the
Place where they are bury'd: nor do I queſtion
but they would have alfo order'd Veffels of Wine,
if Mahomet had not forbidden the uſe of it. The
manner of giving Alms is very well explain'd in
the following Precept: Help your Father and Mo-
ther, your next Relations, the Orphans, your Neigh-
bours,
¡
The Religion and Manners of the Turks. 305
bours, them who travel with you, the Pilgrims, and
thoſe who are under your power; but do nothing out
of Vanity, for that is abhorr'd of God. I will fe-
verely puniſh (ſays the Lord) and will cover with Con-
fufion the Covetous, who not content to impart no-
thing to others out of the Goods which I entrusted them
with only as Stewards, on the contrary affirm, they
ought not to give. Let them who have Faith, give
Alms, and pray before the Day of Judgment comes;
for there will be no time for obtaining Paradife after
that terrible Day.
There are no Beggars to be ſeen in Turkey, be-
cauſe they take care to prevent the Unfortunate
from falling into fuch Neceffities. The Sick vifit
the Priſons, to diſcharge thoſe who are arreſted for
Debt: they are very careful to relieve Perfons who
are baſhfully aſham'd of their Poverty. How
many Families may one find, who have been
ruin'd by Fires, and are reftor'd by Charities!
They need only prefent themſelves at the Door of
the Mofques. They alfo go to their Houſes to
comfort the Afflicted. The Diſeaſed, and they
who have the Peftilence, are fuccour'd by their
Neighbours Purfe, and the Parish Funds; for the
Turks, as Leunclavius obferves, fet no bounds to
their Charities. They lay out Money for repairing
the Highways, and making Fountains for the
benefit of Paffengers; and build Hofpitals, Inns,
Baths, Bridges, and Mofques.
Tho' the fineſt Mofques are at Conftantinople, at
Adrianople, Burja or Prufa; yet there are fome
Conveniencies provided in thofe of the principal
Towns, and Receptacles of Water for making
the Ablutions. The Body of the Mofque is ge-
nerally a very handfom Dome, the Infide is very
plain, and upon the Walls is written the Name
of God in Arabick. The Nich where the Alco-
ran lies, is always fronting the fide towards Mecha;
Vol. II.
X
and
300
A VOYAGE into the Levant.
and the Dedication of the moſt celebrated Mofques
is made by fixing there a piece of Stuff, which had
ſerv'd to ſupport the Moſque at Mecha. The fmalleft
Moſques generally has its Pinacle, and thoſe which
make any tolerable figure, have two: if there is
none, the Muezim places himſelf at the Door,
and putting his Thumbs into his Ears, turns him-
felf to the four Quarters of the World, and pro-
claims the Hours of Prayer. This Chanter ferves
inſtead of a Clock, a Quadrant, and a Dial; for
there is no fuch thing as a Watch in all Turkey.
Their Service is uniform in all the Churches. All
the Officers are under the Curate, who, as the chief
Miniſter, preaches and fays the Prayers. As good
as the Pavement of the Church is, it is always
cover'd with a Carpet or a Mat. As for the Re-
venues of the Mofques, it is certain none of them
are poor: the greater part are very rich: and they
fay the Church poffeffes a third part of the Lands
of the Empire. Orchan, the fecond Ottoman Em-
peror, changed the Greek Churches into Mofques :
his Succeffors did the fame, and augmented their
Revenues, fo far were they from leffening them.
This Emperor alfo was the first who caus'd Ho-
fpitals to be built for the Poor, and the Pilgrims:
he founded Colleges, and endow'd them, for the
Education of Youth. There are few confiderable
Moſques, but have their Hoſpitals and Colleges.
The Poor, of whatever Religion they are, are re-
liev'd in theſe Hofpitals; but they admit none
into the Colleges except Mahometans, who are
taught to read and write, and interpret the Alco-
ran. Several apply themſelves there to Arithme-
tick, Aftrology, and Poefy; tho' the Colleges
are principally appointed to breed them to the Law.
The Inns upon the publick Foundation are large
Buildings, long or fquare, and in appearance like
a Barn. On the Infide there is only a Bench fix'd
to
The Religion and Manners of the Turks. 307
to the Wall, about three Foot high, and fix broad:
the reſt of the Place is for lodging the Mules,
Horſes, and Camels. The Bench ferves the Men
for a Bed, a Table; and a Kitchin. They have
fmall Chimneys there, feven or eight Foot wide,
one with another, where they hang on the Pot.
When the Broth is ready, they fpread a Napkin,
and fit round with their Legs acrofs, like Taylors.
The Bed is foon made after Supper, för they only
fpread their Carpet, and lay on their Baggage
and Clothes a Saddle fupplies the place of a
Pillow, and their Clothes ferve them for a Cover-
lid. The greateſt Convenience is, that in the
Morning they mount their Horfe without getting
down from the Bench they flept on, for it is even
with the Stirrups. The Carriers hold the Stirrup
while the Paffengers mount thefe Fellows never
fleep, but ſpend the moft part of the Night in
feeding the Horfes, and making them ready.
At the Door of thefe Inns are Bread, Eggs,
Hens, Fruits, and fometimes Wine; and if any
thing is wanted, they procure it at the neighbouring
Town. If there are any Chriftians there, then one may
get fome Wine, if not, one must go on without it.
They pay nothing for Lodging. Thefe publick
Hoftries in fome degree keep up the Hofpitality fo
praiſe-worthy in the Ancients.
The private Inns in the Towns are more con-
venient, and better built; they are very like Mo-
nafteries, for a great many have a little Mofque
belonging to them. The Fountain is commonly
in the middle of the Court, and the neceffary
Houſes are round about: the Chambers are ranged
along a large Gallery, or in very lightfom Dor-
mitories. In the publick Inns the whole Enter-
tainment coſts a fimall Piece of Money to the Keep-
er, and Provifions are cheap enough in the others.
The beſt way to make one eafy there, is to get a
Room where a Man may drefs his own Diet.
X 2
The
308 AVOYAGE into the Levant.
The Market is juſt at hand; for you have Meat,
Fiſh, Bread, Fruits, Oil, Butter, Pipes, Tobacco
Coffee, Candles, and Wood at the Door. One
muft apply to the Jews or the Chriftians for Wine,
and for a fmall Matter they will bring you fome
privately: the Jews have the beft, and the worſt
is the Greeks. We had generally very good, becauſe
our People, who had an Intereft there, took care
to give out through the Quarters that we were
Phyſicians. They came about us to aſk for Me-
dicines, or to beg us to look upon their Sick, and
the Fee was commonly fome Bottles of excellent
Wine. There are feveral of theſe Inns, where
Straw, Barley, Bread, and Rice are provided at
the Founder's Charge. Thofe of Europe are better
built, and better endowed and accommodated than
thoſe of Aſia; for in the great Towns they are cover'd
with Lead, and embelliſh'd with feveral Domes :
but it raining very feldom in Afia, it is more plea-
fant to walk in the Fields, in fine Weather, along
the Brooks fide, where one may catch admirable
Trouts there are Partridges alfo almoſt in every
Corner.
As Charity and Love of one's Neighbour are
the moſt effential Points of the Mahometan Reli-
gion, the Highways are generally kept mighty
well; and there are Springs of Water common
enough, becauſe they are wanted for making the
Ablutions. The Poor look after the Conduit-pipes,
and thoſe who have a tolerable Fortune repair the
Cauſeways. The Neighbourhood joins together to
build Bridges over the deep Routs, and contribute
to the Benefit of the Publick according to their
power. The Workmen take no Hire, but find
Mafons and Labourers gratis for the feveral forts of
Work. You may fee Pitchers of Water ſtanding
at the Doors of the Houfes in the Towns, for the
ufe of Paffengers; and fome honeſt Muffulmen
lodge themſelves under a fort of Sheds, which they
erect
The Religion and Manners of the Turks. 309
erect in the Road, and do nothing elſe during the
great Heats, but get thoſe who are weary, to come
in and reft themſelves, and take a Refreſhment.
The Spirit of Charity is fo extenfive among the
Turks, that the Beggars themſelves, tho there are
very few to be ſeen, think they are obliged to give
their Superfluities to other poor Folks; and carry
their Charity, or rather Vanity, to fuch an Ex-
treme, that they give their Leavings even to fuffi-
cient Perfons, who make no fcruple to receive their
Bread, and to eat it, to fhew how highly they
eſteem their Virtue.
The Charity of the Mahometans is extended alfo
to Animals, and Plants, and to the Dead. They
believe it is pleaſing to God, fince Men, who will
ufe their Reaſon, want for nothing; whereas the
Animals, not having Reaſon, their Inftinct often
expoſes them to feek their Food with the lofs of
their Lives. In confiderable Towns they fell
Victuals at the Corners of the Streets, to give to
the Dogs; and fome Turks, out of charity, have
them cured of Wounds, and efpecially of the
Mange, with which thefe Creatures are miferably
afflicted toward the end of their Life: and one
may fee Perfons of good Senfe, out of mere De-
votion, carry Straw to lay under the Bitches
which are going to whelp; and they build them
fmall Huts, to fhelter them and their Puppies.
One would hardly believe there are Endowments
fettled in Form by Will, for maintaining a certain
number of Dogs and Cats fo many Days in the
Week; yet this is commonly done; and there are
People paid at Conftantinople, to fee the Donor's
Intention executed, in feeding them in the Streets.
The Butchers and Bakers often fet afide a fmall
Portion to beſtow upon thefe Animals. Yet with
all their Charity the Turks hate Dogs, and never
fuffer them in their Houfes; and in a time of
Peftilence
X 3
310 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
Peſtilence they kill as many as they find, thinking
the 'e unclean Creatures infect the Air.
On the contrary they love Cats very well
whether it be for their natural Cleanlinefs, or
becauſe they ſympathize with themſelves in Gra-
vity; whereas the Dogs are wanton, fporting,
and noify. Befides, the Turks believe, from I
know not what Tradition, that Mahomet had fuch
a love for his Cat, that being confulted one Day
about a Point of Religion, he chofe rather to cut
off the Skirt of his Garment upon which the Cat
lay afleep, than to wake her in getting up, to go
and fpeak with the Perfon who was waiting. The
Levant Cats however are not more beautiful than
ours, and the fine Cats of a Tabby-grey Colour,
are very ſcarce there: they bring them from the
Inland of Malta, where the Breed is common
enough. Among the Birds, the Turks look upon
Turtle-doves and Storks as facred, and it is not
lawful to kill them; on the contrary the Greeks of
the Archipelago are great Eaters of the Turtle-
doves, and count them'a delicious Dish: they are
in fhort the beſt Wild-fowl of the Levant, and
yield to a Francolin only in bulk; but they muft
be eaten roafted, for thoſe which are falted in Barrels
like Anchovies, lofe all their Taſte. The Turks,
think they do a Work of Charity in buying Birds
in a Cage, in order to ſet them at liberty; tho' at
the fame time they make no fcruple to keep up
their Women in a Brifon, and our Slaves at the
Chain. Thoſe who catch Birds by Bird-lime or
any other way, believe they do no harm, becauſe
their Intention is to furniſh them to thoſe who are
able to redeem them, in order to releaſe them,
and thereby have an occafion to do good Works;
fo that every one hopes to find his Account in it
before God: fo true is it, that the Direction of the
Intention is natural to all thefe Men.
As
...
The Religion and Manners of the Turks. 311
As to Plants, the moſt devout among the
Turks water them out of charity, and cultivate
the Earth where they grow, that they may thrive
the better. Sultan Ofman, they fay, feeing a Tree
at a diſtance, which had the Figure of a Derviſe,
fettled a Salary of an Afper a Day for a Man to
take care of it. Tho' it was fimplicity, not to
fay Folly, to follow this Emperor's Example, yet
the good Muffulmen believe they do in it a thing
agreeable to God, who is the Creator and Preferv-
er of all things. They are alfo weak enough to
imagine they do a pleaſure to the Dead, in pouring
Water upon their Tombs; for this, ſay they, may
be a Refreſhment to them: and there are feveral
Women, who go to eat and drink in the Cemete-
ries upon a Friday, believing that by this they
appeafe the Hunger and Thirft of their deceafed
Hufbands.
Before I entertain you, my Lord, with an Ac-
count of all the Practices of the Turks with reſpect
to the Dead, it will be proper to explain the two
Commands which are remaining; namely, that
concerning the Journey to Mecha, and that con-
cerning Purity. The Pilgrimage to Mecha is not
only difficult becauſe of the length of the Way,
but on account of the Dangers alfo in Barbary,
where Robberies are frequent, Water fcarce, and
the Heats exceffive. It is true, the Mahometans
may have a Difpenfation, and ſubſtitute a Man to
run thefe Hazards in their ſtead. They look upon
the Temple of Haram, which is that of Mecha,
as the Work of Abraham. Caufe all the World to
know, fays the Alcoran, that God bath commanded
them to follow the Religion of Abraham, which is
neither idolatrous nor unbelieving: that it is Abra-
ham who built the Temple at Mecha, which is the
firſt that was built for praying to the Lord. The Ho-
nour which is paid to this, is well pleafing to God,
X 4
who
312
AVOYAGE into the Levant.
who wills, that all, who are able to go thither,fhould go.
The Muffulmen never trouble themſelves about
the falfe Chronology, and would condemn any
one to the Flames, who ſhould dare to deny there
was fuch a Town as Mecha in Abraham's time.
The four Places of Rendevouz for the Pilgrims,
are Damas, Cairo, Babylon, and Zebir. They pre-
pare themſelves for this miferable Journey by a
Faft which fucceeds that of Ramazan, and affem-
ble in Troops at the Places appointed. The Sub-
jects of the Grand Signior, who are in Europe, re-
fort generally to Alexandria under the Buildings of
Provence, the Patrons of which are to furnish the
Pilgrims with Carriage. At the approach of the
ſmalleſt Veffel, thefe good Muffulmen, who think
of nothing but falling into the Hands of the Mal-
tefc, run to kiss the Banner of France, and wrap
themſelves up in it, and regard it as their Afylum.
From Alexandria they pafs to Cairo, to join thẹ
Caravan of Africans. The Turks of Afia affem-
ble at Damas; the Perfians and Indians at Babylon;
the Arabians, and thoſe of the adjacent Iſlands, at
Zebir. The Baffa's who go, embark at Suez, a
Port of the Red Sea, three Days Journey and a half
from Cairo. All theſe Caravans take their mea-
fures fo well, that they arrive the Eve of the leſs
Bairam at the Hill Arafagd, which is one Day's
March from Mccha. It is upon this celebrated
Hill, they believe, that the Angel appear'd the
first time to Mahomet, and here is one of their
principal Sanctuaries. After having kill'd fome
Sheep to give to the Poor, they go to make their
Prayers at Mecha, and from thence to Medina,
where is the Tomb of the Prophet, upon which
they ſpread every Year a very rich and magnificent
Pall, which the Grand Signior fends thither as a
Prefent of Devotion: the antient Pall is worn a-
way by pieces, for the Pilgrims tear off a piece of
it,
}
}
The Religion and Manners of the Turks. 313
it, be it ever ſo ſmall, and keep it as an invalu-
able Relique.
The Grand Signior alfo fends by the Super-
intendant of the Caravans five hundred Sequins,
an Alcoran cover'd with Gold, feveral rich Car-
pets, and a great many Pieces of black Cloth for
the Hangings of the Mofques of Mecha. The
nobleft Camel in the Country is chofen to carry
the Alcoran: at his Return this Camel is hung
with Garlands of Flowers, and cover'd with Be-
nedictions; is richly fed, and excus'd from La-
bour all the reft of his Days. They kill him
with Solemnity when he is very old, and eat his
Fleſh as holy Fleſh; for if he fſhould die of Age
or Sickneſs, his Fleſh would be loft, and be fub-
ject to Putrefaction. The Pilgrims who have
made the Journey to Mecha, are held in great
Veneration the remainder of their Life; and being
abfolv❜d of all forts of Crimes, they commit them
anew with Impunity, fince, according to the Law,
they are not to be put to death: they are reputed
incorruptible, irreproachable, and fanctify'd from
this World. Some Indians, they fay, are fooliſh
enough to put out their Eyes after they have feen
what they call the Holy Places of Mecha, pre-
tending that their Eyes ought not after that to be
profan'd by the fight of worldly Things.
The Children who are conceiv'd in this Pilgri-
mage, are eſteem'd as fo many little Saints, whether
the Pilgrims beget them upon their lawful Wives,
or upon ftrange Women; for there are fuch wait-
ing upon the Road, who offer themſelves very
humbly for fo pious a Work. Thefe Children
are kept cleaner than others, tho' it be very diffi-
cult to add any thing to the Neatneſs with which
Children are generally kept over all the Levant.
Mahomet would have deferv'd to be commend-
ed, if he had advis'd Cleanlinefs, as comely and ufe-
ful
1
314 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
ful to the Health; but it was ridiculous in him
to make it a Point of Religion. Yet the Mufful-
men are ſo fond of it, that they spend a great part
of their Life in wafhing. There is not a Village
among them which has not a publick Bath. Thoſe
in the Towns are the chief Ornament of the
Place, and are allotted for all forts of People, of
whatever Quality and Religion they are. But the
Men never bathe with the Women; and there is
fo much Modeſty obſerv'd, that any one would be
reprov'd, who ſhould fee any thing thro' Inadver-
tency; and if he did it by defign, he would be ba-
ftinado'd. There are fome Baths which are for the
Ufe of the Men in the Morning, and for the Wo-
men in the Afternoon; and others are frequented
one Day in the Week by one Sex, and the next
by the other. One is ferv'd very well in theſe
Baths for three or four Afpers: the Strangers com-
monly pay handſomer, and every one is welcome
there from four in the Morning to eight in the
Evening.
The firft Entrance is into a fine Hall, in the
middle of which is the principal Fountain, the
Baſon of which ferves for wafhing the Linen of
the Houſe. All round the Hall is a ſmall Bench a-
bout three Foot high, cover'd with a Mat: they
fit down upon this to fmoke, and pull off their
Clothes, which are folded up in a Towel. The
Air of this firft Hall is fo temperate, that one
can bear to have nothing upon one's Body but an
Apron about the Waift, to cover one before and
behind. In this Condition a Man paffes into a
fmall Hall, which is a little warmer, and from
thence into a larger, where the Heat is more fen-
fible. All theſe Halls are generally clos❜d above
with ſmall Domes, which let in Light at the top
thro' a round Glafs, like thofe our Gardeners put
over their Melons. In the laft Hall there are
Marble
The Religion and Manners of the Turks. 315
Marble Baſons with two Cocks, one of hot Wa-
ter, and the other of cold, which every one mixes
to his own Fancy, and laves upon his Body with
little Buckets of Brafs belonging to the Place.
The Pavement of this Chamber is heated by Fur-
naces beneath, and every one walks there as long
as he thinks proper.
When a Man defires to be fcour'd, a Servant
of the Bath caufes you at once to lie along upon
your Back, and fetting his Knees upon your
Belly, without farther Ceremony preffes and
fqueezes you violently, and makes every Bone
crack. The firſt time I fell into one of thefe Fel-
low's Hands, I thought he had put out all my
Limbs. They handle after the fame manner the
Joints of the Back, and the Shoulder-blades. In
brief, if you would be fhav'd, he fhaves you, or
gives you a Razor to fhave yourſelf, if you chufe
it; but for this you muſt withdraw into a Cloſet,
at the Door of which you hang up a Towel as a
Signal for no body to enter; and when you come
out, you take it away again, and go into the great
Hall, where another Servant preffes your Fleſh
all over with his Hands fo dextroufly, that having
kneaded it, as I may fay, without doing you any
harm, he forces out a furprizing Quantity of Sweat.
The little Camelot-bags they make uſe of here,
are inſtead of the Strigils of the Antients, and are
much more convenient. To clean the Skin the
better, they pour a world of hot Water upon the
Body; and if you have a mind to it, they uſe a
piece of perfum❜d Soap: in a word, they wipe
you with Linen very clean, dry, and warm; and
the Ceremony concludes with your Feet, which
the fame Man waſhes very carefully, when you
are come back into the great Hall, where you
left your Clothes: it is there you are accommo-
dated with a fmall Mirror, and pay your Money,
after
316 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
after you are drefs'd, and have reftor'd the Linen
you had for your Ufe. In this Hall they ſmoke,
drink Coffee, and have Collations; for after this
Exerciſe a Man finds himſelf very hungry. By
diſcharging the Glands, the Bath certainly facili
tates Perfpiration, and by confequence the Circu-
lation of Juices which fupply the Body. A Man
perceives himſelf very light when he has been well
purify'd; but he muſt be accuſtom❜d to the Bath
from his Youth, for otherwiſe the Breaft is very
rnuch affected by theſe warm Rooms.
The Women are very happy when they are
permitted to go to the publick Baths; but moſt of
them, eſpecially fuch whofe Hufbands are rich
enough to build them Baths at home, have not
this liberty. In the publick Baths they entertain
one another without any conftraint, and paſs their
time more agreeably than in their own Apartments.
The Men who have any Complaifance for their
Wives, do not refuſe them theſe innocent Diver-
fions. Too much Conſtraint makes them fome-
times feek Reafons for a Divorce.
Marriage among the Turks is only a Civil Con-
tract, which the Parties have in their power to
break; and nothing 'feems more convenient: yet
as they are frequently weary of Marriage here, as
well as elſewhere, they have wifely provided, that
frequent Separations fhall be chargeable to the
Family. A Woman may demand to be feparat-
ed from her Hufband, if he is impotent, or given
to unnatural Pleaſures, or if he does not pay his
Tribute upon Thurſday and Friday Night, which
are the times confecrated to the conjugal Duties.
If the Man acquits himſelf well, and fupplies her
with Bread, Butter, Rice, Wood, Coffee, Cot-
ton, and Silk to fpin her Garments, ſhe cannot be
parted from him. A Hufband who denies his
Wife Money to go to the Bath twice a Week, is
fubject
The Religion and Manners of the Turks. 317
fubject to a Separation; for if the Woman turns
her Slipper upfide down in prefence of the Judge,
it is a Sign her Hufband would force her to con-
fent to things forbidden. Then the Judge fends
to look for the Hufband, and baftinades him, and
diffolves the Marriage, unleſs he brings fome very
good Reaſons in his Defence.
A Hufband who would be parted from his
Wife, wants Pretences as little in his turn, tho'
the thing is not fo eafy among the Turks as People
imagine. The Hufband is not only obliged to
fettle a Dowry upon his Wife for the reft of her
Days, but fuppofing that in a return of Tender-
nefs towards her he fhould defire to take her a-
gain, he is condemn'd to let her lie for twenty-
four Hours with fome other Man, whom he fhall
think fit. He generally chufes one of his Friends,
whom he knows to be moft difcreet: fometimes
alfo he takes the firft Comer; and it often hap-
pens, they fay, that fome Women, who are pleas'd
with their Change, refufe to return to their firſt
Huſband again. This is practis'd only toward
fuch Wives as are efpous'd. The Turks are per-
mitted to keep two other forts; namely, fuch as
they have in pay, and their Slaves. They efpoufe
the firſt, the ſecond they hire, and the laft they
purchaſe.
When a Man would marry a Woman in form,
he makes his Addrefs to the Relations, and figns
the Articles, after they are all met in the Prefence
of the Cadi, and before two Witneffes. It is not
the Father and Mother, but the Hufband, who
endows the Woman. When the Dowry is fix'd,
the Cadi delivers to the Parties the Copy of the
Marriage-contract; the Woman, on her part,
brings only her Partition of Goods. Againft
the Nuptial Day the Bridegroom has his Mar-
riage blefs'd by the Curate; and to draw upon
himſelf
318 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
himſelf the Favour of Heaven, he diſtributes Alms,
and fets fome Slaves at liberty. Upon the Wed-
ding-day the Bride mounts on horfeback, cover'd
with a large Veil, and rides thro' the Streets un-
der a Canopy, accompany'd by feveral Women,
and fome Slaves, according to the Quality of her
Hufband. The Men and Women, who play
on Inftruments, affift in the Ceremony: after this,
are carried along the Goods, which make not the
leaft Ornament of the Proceffion. As this is all
the Profit which accrues to the Hufband, they af-
fect to place upon Horfes and Camels a great
many Coffers, which make a fine Appearance,
but are commonly empty, or have nothing in
them but the Habits and Jewels. The Bride is
alfo led home in triumph by the fartheft way to
her Huſband's, who receives her at his Door.
Then theſe two Perfons, who have never feen one
another, nor changed a word but by the Interpo-
fition of fome Friends, join Hands, and make
the tendereft Proteftations that a fincere Paffion
can infpire. They forget not alfo to make a
Speech, which is eloquent at leaft; for it is im-
poffible the Heart fhould have much fhare in it.
The Ceremony being perform'd in preſence of
the Relations and Friends, they ſpend the Day
in Feafting, and Dances, and feeing Puppet-fhows.
The Men make merry in one Company, and the
Women in another, till at laft Night comes on,
and Silence fucceeds to this tumultuous Joy. A-
mong the Rich the Bride is conducted into the
Chamber by an Eunuch; but if there is no Eu-
nuch, fome Woman Relation takes her by the
Hand, and delivers her into her Hufband's Arms.
In fome Towns of Turky there are Women,
whofe Profeffion it is to inftruct the Bride in what
fhe ought to do when the approaches her Spoufe,
who is obliged to undrefs her piece by piece, and
to
The Religion and Manners of the Turks.
319.
to put her to bed. During this time, they fay,
fhe repeats a long Prayer, and takes care to tie
her Girdle in ſeveral Knots, fo that the poor
Bridegroom exerciſes himſelf for whole Hours,
before he can finiſh the diſrobing. It is only by
the Report of another, that a Man underftands
whether the Woman he efpoufes be handfom or
ugly. There are a great many Towns, where
the next Day after the Wedding the Relations
and Friends go to the Houfe of the new-married
Couple, to take a bloody Cloth, and fhew it in
the Streets as they ride along, with Inftruments
playing before them. The Mother or the Rela-
tions forget not to prepare fuch a Cloth, both for
that end, and to fhew, in cafe of need, that the
Parties were fatisfied one with another. If the
Women live prudently, the Alcoran requires them
to be treated well, and condemns the Hufbands
who uſe them otherwife, to make amends for their
Offence by Alms, or by other Works of Piety,
which they are obliged to do before they lie with
them.
If the Huſband dies firft, the Woman takes
her Dowry, and nothing more; and the Children,
when the Mother dies, can oblige the Father to
give the Dowry to them. In cafe of a Divorce,
the Dowry is loft, if the Huſband's Reaſons are
fufficient; if not, he must continue it, and main-
tain the Children.
This is the Condition of lawful Wives. As
for them who are hir'd, there is not fo much For-
mality about them. After the Father and Mo-
ther's Confent, who are willing to deliver their
Daughter to fuch a Man, they repair to the
Judge, who draws a Writing, that fuch a Man
is willing to take fuch a Woman to ferve for
a Wife; that he undertakes to maintain her and
the Children they fhall have together, upon con-
dition
320
AVOYAGE into the Levant.
dition he fhall be able to difmifs her when he
thinks fit, paying her a certain Sum, in propor-
tion to the Number of Years they fhall live toge-
ther. To colour over this evil Practice, the Turks
throw the Scandal of it upon the Chriftian Mer-
chants, who having left their Wives behind in
their own Country, hire others in the Levant.
As for Slaves, the Mahometans, according to the
Law, may uſe them as they pleaſe: they give
them their Liberty when they will, or hold them
in Servitude for their whole Life. What is com-
mendable in this libertine Way of Living, is,
that the Children which the Turks have by their
Wives, equally inherit their Fathers Goods; with
this difference only, that the Children of the
Slaves muſt be declar'd free by Teftament. If
their Father does not do them this favour, they
follow the condition of the Mother, and are at
the diſcretion of the Eldeft of the Family.
Tho' the Women in Turky do not ſhew them-
felves in publick, they are yet very magnificent
in their Habits. They wear Breeches like Men,
which reach as low as the Heel, in manner of a
Pantaloon, at the end of which is a very neat Sock
of Spanish Leather. Theſe Breeches are of Cloth,
Velvet, Sattin, Fuftian, Brocade, or fine Linen,
according to the Seaſon, and the Quality of the
Wearer. There are Women at Conftantinople de-
bauch'd and profligate to fuch a degree, that un-
der a fhew of adjuſting their Clothes, they difco-
ver in the open Street all that which Modefty en-
joins them to conceal, and get their Living by
this deteftable Trade. The Turkish Women wear
upon their Shift a Waift-coat, and upon that a
a kind of Caffock of very rich Stuff: this Caf-
fock is button'd down below the Breaſt, and girt
about with a Girdle of Silk or Leather, with
fome Plates of Silver enrich'd with Jewels. The
Veft
The Religion and Manners of the Turks.
321
1
Veft they wear upon the Caffock, is of a Stuff, which
is more or leſs thick, according to the Seaſon
and the Fur of it is more or lefs coftly, according
to the Perfon's Condition. They often fold one
part of the Veſt over the other, and the Sleeves
reach to the Fingers Ends; and they commonly
carry their Hands thruft in at the Slits in the fide
of the Veſt. Their Shoes are exactly like the
Mens, that is, embellifh'd with a Border of Iron
about the Heel. To give their Stature the beſt
Advantage, inſtead of a Turbant, they wear a
Bonnet of Pafteboard, cover'd with Cloth of
Gold, or fome handfom Stuff. This Bonnet,
which is very high, reſembles, in fome manner,
a certain fort of inverted Bafket, which is feen in
the antient Medals upon the Heads of Diana, Juno,
and Iris. This Fashion is obferv'd in the Levant;
but as the Women among the Turks are obliged
to cover themſelves all over, they have a Veil upon
the Bonnet, which hangs down to the Eye-brows;
the rest of the Face is cover'd with a fine Hand-
kerchief, ty'd fo ftrait behind, that the Women
look juft as if they were bridled. Their Hair
hangs in Treffes upon their Back, and is a won-
derful Grace to them; and thofe who have not
good Hair of their own, wear artificial.
The Turkish Women, according to the Report
of our Countrymen at Conftantinople and Smyrna,
who fee them at the Bath with liberty enough,
are generally handfom and well-made. They
have a delicate Skin, regular Features, and admi-
rable Cheft, and above all, black Eyes, and fe
veral of them are compleat Beauties. Their Ha-
bit indeed is no Advantage to their Shape; but
among the Turks, the thickeft Women pafs for
the beſt made, and flender Shapes are not efteem'd.
Their Breaſts are at full liberty under their Veſt,
without any reftraint of Stays or Bodice: in a
Vol. II.
word,
Y
322 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
word, they are juft as Nature has made them;
whereas with us, by endeavouring by Machines
of Iron and Whalebone to correct Nature, who
fometimes at a certain Age difcovers Faults in the
Back-bone and the Shoulders, the fine Women
are frequently mere Counterfeits. Beſides, their
Diet is ſweeter and more fimple than that of our
Women, who eat Ragous, and drink Wine and
ftrong Liquors, and fpend a great part of the
Night at Play: is it furprizing then that they have
Children crooked, or with falfe Shapes? The
Blood of the Levant Women is alfo much purer:
their Cleanlineſs is extraordinary; for they bathe
twice a Week, and fuffer not the fmalleſt Hair or
the leaſt Soil to be upon their Body: all which
conduces extremely to make them healthy. But
they might ſpare the Care they take of their
Nails and their Eye-brows; for they colour their
Nails of a dark red, with a Powder which cornes.
out of Egypt, and ufe another Drug for their
Brows to make them black.
As to the Qualities of the Mind, the Turkish Wo-
men, want neither Wit, Vivacity, nor Tenderneſs;
and it is owing to the Men of this Country, that
they are not capable of more beautiful Paffions:
but the extreme Conftraint with which they are
guarded, makes them go a great way in a little
time. The more brifk among them fometimes
cauſe their Slaves to ftop a comely Man, as he
paffes along the Street. They commonly faſten
upon Chriſtians, and we may eaſily believe they
do not chufe thoſe who ſeem the leaſt vigorous. We
were told at Conftantinople, that a handſom Greek,
as he was returning from an Adventure of Gal-
lantry, unhappily fell into a Trap-door, by the
fault of the Slave who conducted him: the Trap-
door was at the end of a Spout, which diſcharged
itſelf into the Town-ditch. One may imagine
how
The Religion and Manners of the Turks. 323
how heartily the poor Greek curs'd the Adventure,
and how fpeedily he ran to the Bath to waſh him-
felf clean. The Slaves of the Jews, who are the
Turkish Womens Confidents, enter their Apartments
at all Hours, under a pretence of carrying them
Jewels, and often take with them fome jolly
young Fellow difguis'd in Womens Apparel:
they ſpread them out with a Fardingale, to make
them look bulky. The Hour of Morning and
Evening Prayer is the common time for intriguing
in Turky, as well as in many parts of Spain; but
this can be practis'd only in great Towns, where
the diforderly Women, and fuch whofe Hufbands
are conveniently good-natur'd, are very ſtrict at
their Devotions, while their Hufbands are in the
Mofque. The Meeting is made in the Houſes of
the Jewelles, where the Turkish Women love good
Company; and there Strangers have all the Li-
berty with them that can be. Love is ingenious
in every Country; but fome Precautions, which
are taken to conceal the Game, often caufe them
to be moſt furpriz'd in thofe Places where they
thought themſelves moft fecure. Adultery is rigo-
rouſly puniſh'd in Turky; and in that cafe the
Hufbands are Mafters of the Life of their Wives;
for if they are revengeful, the wretched Women
who are caught in this flagrant Offence, or con-
victed in Form, are put into a Sack fill'd with
Stones, and drown'd: but moſt of them know
how to manage their Intrigues fo well, that they
feldom die this death. When their Hufbands
give them their Life, they are more happy fome-
times than they were before; for then they oblige
them to marry their Gallant, who is condemn'd
to die, or turn Turk, fuppofing he is a Chriftian.
The Gallant is often condemn'd alſo to ride thro'
the Street upon an Afs, with his Head towards
the Tail, which they make him hold in his Hand
Y 2
like
324 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
like a Bridle, with a Crown of Garbage, and a
Cravat of the fame Stuff. After this Triumph,
they entertain him with a certain Number of
Blows of the Battoon upon the Reins and upon
the Soles of the Feet; and for the laft Punishment
he pays down a Fine proportionable to his Eſtate.
The Savages of Canada are not fo rigorous; for
tho' they condemn the Adulterefs, yet they agree
that the Frailty being fo natural to the two Sexes,
they ſhould mutually forgive one another, if the
Faith is broken, which is plighted in fo delicate
a Matter.
The Alcoran detefts Adultery, and ordains,
that he who ſhall accufe his Wife, without being
able to prove it, fhall be condemn'd to four and
twenty Strokes of the Battoon. As the thing is
difficult to be prov'd in Turky, where there muſt
be Witneffes, the Huſband is obliged to ſwear four
times before the Judge, that he ſpeaks the Truth;
and proteſts five times, that he defires to be ac-
curs'd of God and Men, if he lies. The Wo-
man laughs in her heart, for fhe is believ'd upon
her Oath, provided the prays to God five times
that ſhe may perish, if what her Huſband fays is
true. Does it not feem, that every Woman in fuch
a Condition ought to be difpens'd with from ſpeak-
ing the Truth?
Jealoufy excepted, the Turks are a well-natur'd
People, and take all poffible Meaſures to avoid
the Occafions of it; for they never fuffer their
Wives Faces to be ſeen by the deareſt Friend they
have in the whole World. They are alfo well
made, and of a manly Stature: the Blood changes
lefs with them than with us, perhaps becauſe they
are more fober, and their Nouriſhment is [more
wholefom and light: and there are fewer crooked
People, or lame, or Dwarfs. It is true, their
Habit hides many Defects, which ours diſcovers.
The
The Religion and Manners of the Turks. 325
The first part of their Habit is a pair of Breeches
in manner of Pantaloons or Drawers, which reach
to the Heels, and end with a yellow Spanish
Leather Sock, which goes into Slippers of the fame
Leather. Inſtead of a Heel, the Slippers are ad-
orn'd with a ſmall Iron, only one Finger and a
half broad, and four high, bent like a Horſe-fhoe,
for which reaſon the Horſes have no Shoes in this
Country. The Tip is curv'd in a Bow, and they
are ſew❜d more neatly than our Shoes. Tho' they
have only a ſingle Sole, they laſt a long time;
eſpecially thofe of Conftantinople, where they uſe
the beſt and lighteſt Leather of the Levant. The
Sultan is no better fhod than others. The Chri-
ftians, who are Strangers, are not ſuffer'd to wear
yellow Slippers; for the Subjects of the Grand
Signior, Chriftians or Jews, have them either red,
violet, or black. This Order is fo well eſtabliſh'd,
and obferv'd with fuch Exactnefs, that one may
know what Religion any one is of by the Feet
and the Head. The great Convenience of theſe
Slippers is, that one puts them on and off without
Trouble; but I loft mine feveral times in the
middle of the Street, when I first wore them,
and never miſs'd them till the aking of my Feet
gave me notice.
Our Shoes are of a much better Faſhion, tho'
the Turks think them heavy and clumfey. Their
Slippers are good only in fine Weather, for the
leaſt Drop of Water foils them: they are by no
means fit for Perfons who love to go a fimpling.
There is no walking in the Fields in thefe Slippers
without being hurt by the fmalleft Pebble: it is
true, they ſometimes put on Spanish Leather Buf-
kins as light as Cloth, and border'd at the Heel
with Iron, like the Slippers: the Muffulmen alone,
and privileged Chriftians wear them of yellow.
The Turkish Breeches are faften'd together at
top by a Band three or four Inches wide, which
Y 3
goes
326
AVOYAGE into the Levant.
$
goes into a linen Loop few'd on to the Cloth,
They are not made to open more before than be
hind, becauſe the Mahometans do not urine after
that manner. Their Shirts are made of fine foft
Callicoe, and the Sleeves are as long as thoſe of a
Woman's Shift: they turn up the Sleeves in their
Ablutions as high as the Elbow, and very eafily,
becauſe they have no Wrift-bands. Upon the
Shirt they wear a fort of Caffock of Fuftian, or
Satin, or Stuff of Gold, which reaches to the
Heels. In the Winter it is lin'd with Cotton,
and fome Turks have it of the finest English Cloth:
it is juſt fit acroſs the Breaft, and is button'd with
Buttons of Silver gilt, or of Silk, as big as a
Pepper-corn, The Sleeves are alfo made very fit,
and are faften'd with Buttons of the fame fize,
which go into a Loop of Silk inftead of Button-
holes; and the Caffock is the fame. For Quick-
nefs in dreffing, they button only two or three
Buttons here and there: fometimes the Sleeves have
at the end a fmall Band, which covers the upper
part of the Hand. They wear a Girdle upon
the Caffock ten or twelve Feet long, and one
Foot and a quarter wide. The beft Girdles are
made at Scio. They go twice or thrice round the
Waiſt, fo that the two Ends, which are handfomly
toffel'd, hang down before.
They wear a Dagger, and fometimes two in
this Girdle thefe are merely Cafe-knives, and
the Handle is adorn'd with Gold or Silver, and
precious Stones. As they have no Pockets, they
alſo carry their Handkerchiefs under the fame
Girdle, and their Tobacco-box, Letter-cafe, &c.
they thrust into their Bofom, which makes them
look very big. The great Veft comes over the
Caffock, and during the Heats, they wear it like
a loofe Coat, without putting their Arms into the
Sleeves; but it would be the higheft Indecency to
prefent
The Religion and Manners of the Turks. 327
preſent themſelves in this Pofture before Perſons of
Diftinction. The Sleeves of thefe Vefts are ftrait
enough, and not lin'd with Furs, becauſe they
would then be of an ungraceful Bignefs, and would
hinder them from uſing their Arms freely. Thefe
Sleeves come down to the Wrift, and are turn'd
up with a broad Facing of the fame Fur as the
Veft is lin❜d with. The ordinary Furs are the
Fox-fkin, the Martin, and the fmall Badger; and
the better are the Sable-tail very dark, or the
Breaſt of the Muſcovian Fox bleach'd very bright :
theſe laſt are very dear, becauſe a great many
Martins Tails or Foxes Breafts go to line one Veft:
they coft from five hundred Crowns to a thoufand,
and the dearest rife to four or five thousand Livres.
The Vefts are of Cloth of England, France, or
Holland, of a Scarlet, Mufk, or Coffee Colour,
or Olive-green; and they reach to the Heels like
the Garments of the Ancients.
The Turbant, or Saric, is compos'd of two
pieces; namely, a Bonnet, and the Linen which
is wrapp'd about it. The Turks call the Linen
Tulbend, from whence comes our Turbant. The
Bonnet is a kind of Cap, red or green, without
Brims, pretty flat, tho' fomewhat riſing at the top,
quilted, as I may fay, with Cotton, but it does not
cover the Ears: about this Cap they roll feveral
Folds of Callicoe. It is a particular Art to know
how to give a Turbant a good Air; and it is a
Trade in Turky, as felling Hats is with us.
Emirs, who boaft of their being defcended from
the Race of Mahomet, wear a Turbant all green;
but that of other Turks is red, with a white Border.
It muſt be changed often, to keep it clean. Upon
the whole matter, this Habit is convenient enough,
and I found it better than my own.
The
The Turks take a world of care of handſom
Beards, and value them highly. One of the
Y 4
greatest
328 AVOYAGE into the Levant,
greateſt Marks of Friendship with them, is, to
kifs on's felf, holding one's Beard; as it is a fla-
grant Injury to pull any one by the Beard, or cut
it off. When they fwear, it is by their Beard; and
a Lawyer who had no Beard, would be deſpis'd.
Thofe who follow Arms, are content with wearing
one noble Muſtachio, and are very proud of fine
Whiſkers. The manner of faluting among the
Turks, is, to make a light Inclination of the Head,
and at the fame time lay their Hand upon their
Heart, wifhing a thouſand Benedictions, and call-
ing thoſe whom they falute, Brethren. When
it is a Perſon of Diftinction, they advance toward
him without bowing; and when they are come up
within reach, they ftoop down, and taking up a
corner of his Veft before, lift it about a Foot and
a half high they kifs it with Refpect, or elſe let it
fall, according to the Quality of the Perfon:
when they have made their Compliment, or fpoke
of their Buſineſs, they withdraw, after having
obferv'd the fame Ceremony.
In ordinary Vifits, they only lay their Hand
upon their Heart, and fit cross-legg'd upon a
Sofa, which is a low-rais'd Bench. They commonly
bring in Pipes of Tobacco ready lighted. The
Pipes are very clean and neat, and two or three
Feet long, and confequently the Smoke comes
very mild into the Mouth, and has none of that
ſtinking Oil, which burns the Tongue, and in-
flames the Throat when one ufes fhort Pipes. The
Tobacco alfo which is ſmok'd in the Levant, is the
beft in the World: it is commonly the Tobacco
of Salonica, but that of Afia is better, and eſpe-
cially that of Syria, which they call Tobacco of
Ataxi or Ataquie, becauſe they plant it about the
antient Town of Laodicea. The Turks mix Wood
of Aloes, or other Perfumes, among the Tobacco;
but this fpoils it. The Bowls of their Pipes are
bigger
The Religion and Manners of the Turks. 329
bigger and more convenient than ours. The
Pipes of Negropont and Thebes are made of a na-
tural Clay, which they cut with a Knife as it rifes
out of the Quarry, and which grows hard after-
ward of itſelf. After Tobacco, Coffee and Sher-
bet are brought in. The Coffee is excellent, but
they never put Sugar in it, whether it be out of
Avarice, or becauſe they think it better without
Mixture. Befides Tobacco, People of Quality
treat alfo with Perfume: one Slave burns Drugs
under your Nofe, while others hold a Cloth over
your Head, to hinder the Fumes from being diffi-
pated too foon: a Man muft have been us'd to
thefe Scents, otherwiſe they are noiſom.
Moſt Viſits are perform'd with thefe Ceremonies.
There is no need of much Wit to tranfact Bufi-
nefs well; for a good Mein and Gravity are in-
ſtead of Merit in the East, and much Gaiety
would fpoil all: not that the Turks are not Men
of Wit, but they ſpeak little, and pride them-
felves in Sincerity and Modefty more than Elo-
quence. It is not thus with the Greeks, who are
unmerciful Talkers. Tho' theſe two Nations are
born under one Climate, their Tempers are more
different than if they liv'd very remote from each
other; which can be imputed only to their different
Education. The Turks ufe no unneceffary Words,
and the Greeks on the contrary talk inceffantly. In
Winter they ſpend whole Days in the Tendours;
and there it is they have their Chats, and the
Neighbour is never fpar'd. Theſe Tendours are
Tables boarded round the Sides, and in which they
fhut themſelves up Waiſt-high, Men and Women,
Maids and Batchelors, after they have fet a fmall
Stove there to keep them warm. Our Miſſionaries
may declaim against thefe Tendours as much as
they pleaſe, the Cuftom is too convenient to bẹ
fupprefs'd. The Turks practiſe what their Reli-
gion
330 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
+
gion enjoins, but the Greeks do not; and their
Mifery cauſes them to play a thouſand Fooleries,
authoriz❜d by bad Example, and perpetuated from
Father to Son. In fhort, the Turks make pro-
feffion of Candour and good Faith, whereas how
long the Faith of the Greeks has been fufpected,
one may eafily fee by their own Hiftorians.
An Uniformity runs thro' all the Actions of the
Turks, and they never change their manner of
Life. There is no fuch thing as making great
Feafts with them; they are fatisfy'd with a little,
and you never hear of a Turk's being undone by feed-
ing too high. Rice is the ſtanding Difh in their
Kitchens, and they drefs it three feveral ways. That
which they call Pilau, is dry Rice, fat, and which
melts in the Mouth, and is more agreeable than
the Hens and Rumps of Mutton they boil with
it. They boil it over a fmall Fire, with a little Li-
quor, and never ftir it, nor uncover it; for by ex-
poſing it to the Air, it would turn to a thick Milk.
The fecond way of dreffing it they call Lappa: it
is boil'd up to the fame Confiſtence as with us,
and may be eat with a Spoon; but the Turks uſe their
Fingers, and the Hollow of their Hand ferves
them for a Trencher. The third way is Tchorba:
this is a fort of Rice-cream, which ferves them
for a Broth. [a] This feems to be that Prepara
tion of Rice, which the Ancients gave to ſick
Perfons.
The Levant Hens are very good, but the Butch-
er's Meat is not extraordinary in a great many
Places. They fell there Buffaloe's Fleſh for Beef,
which is violently tough. The Mutton is very
fat, and taſtes of the Suet, eſpecially the Rump,
which is perfectly a Roll of Fat of a prodigious
Thickneſs: the Turks never kill it till juft as they
hang the Pot upon the Fire. As they value only
[a] Summe hoc ptifanarium oryzæ. Hor.
the
The Religion and Manners of the Turks. 331
the Broth, they cut the Fleſh out in Morfels be-
fore they put it into the Kettle, and then boil it
with all forts of Game. When they roaſt, they
chop it ſtill ſmaller, and draw all the Pieces upon
a very long Spit, putting a piece of Meat and
then an Onion alternately. There is good Beef
at Conftantinople, and excellent Hares; and upon
the Coafts of Afia the Heath-cocks are admirable,
and fo are the Partridges. The beft Fifh in the
World is taken in the Levant. Befides the forts
we know, the Black Sea furniſhes a number of
others which are unknown to us. Sometimes the
Turks have a Ragou of Meat haſh'd with a little
Fat, and ftrew'd over with curdled Rice: they
make up Rice alfo in Rolls, which they wrap
over with Vine-leaves or Cabbage, according to
the Seafon, after having boil'd it in an earthen
Pan cover'd clofe. All thro' the Levant they
make abominable Bread with very good Wheat,
for their Dough is neither kneaded nor leaven'd;
yet for all this there is fometimes good Paſtry e-
nough, and made with very fine Puff-pafte. Their
Diſhes are of Porcelain, fine Earth, or Pewter.
The moſt common are Copper tinn'd, for Afia
the Lefs abounds with Copper-mines. They tin it
very neatly, and very quick; for they make the
Diſh red-hot, and ftrew Sal Armoniac upon it,
and then rub the Tin over it, and polifh it with
a Burnisher. This Tin adheres to the Copper fo
well, that their Veffels do not lofe it fo eafily as ours.
When the Hour of eating is come, they fpread
a piece of black Spaniſh Leather upon the Ground,
or the Sofa, according to the Number who are to
eat. They who love Neatnefs, lay it on a Table
of Wood, half a Foot high, upon which they
fet a wooden Bowl with Plates of Rice and Meat.
The Maſter of the Houfe fays the ordinary Prayer,
In the Name of God Almighty and Merciful, &c.
One
332 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
One Napkin of blue Linen is handed round the
Table, and ferves all the Gueſts; and they have
one wooden Ladle among them with a long
Handle, which helps to fharpen their Appetite to
the Rice. Meat and Fruits are alfo produced, and
cold Water is never omitted at the Cloſe of the
Treat. We have roſe from Table fometimes with
our Belly perfectly frozen; but to make us amends,
they gave us Coffee boiling hot: and we fmok'd
like the rest of the Company, but it was more
out of Complaifance than Pleafure. Tobacco in
Smoke, taken medicinally, is good for an Aſthma,
for Pains in the Teeth, and for feveral Maladies
occafion'd by Serofities, to which ſome are very
fubject. In this fenfe Tobacco is proper enough
for the Turks; for their Habit of the Turbant ex-
poſes them to Defluxions, becauſe its Thickneſs
hinders Perfpiration, and it does not cover the
Ears. Tobacco alfo humours their Lazinefs: they
fwallow their Spittle out of Cuftom and out of
Cleanlineſs, and without any Prejudice. When
I went to bridle myſelf before Perſons of Faſhion,
and forbore to ſpit, it made me Heart-fick. De-
cency however requires one to fpit into a Hand-
kerchief, in order to fave the Carpet upon the
Floor, or elſe one muft fit at one Corner, and
take up the Carpet, and fpit upon the Boards.
The first time we were obliged to lodge among
the Turks, we were puzzled fufficiently to know
where we ſhould lie.Our Hoft had only one Hall
where we eat, one finall Kitchen juſt beſide it, and
another Chamber which belong'd to his Wife:
this was evidently not intended for us: and befides,
there was neither Bed, Couch, Bench, nor Chair to
be ſeen (for the Turks, of all People in the World
encumber a Room the leaſt with Moveables) when
at once a Slave drew out of a Cup-board in the
Wall all the Materials for making our Beds. To
make
The Religion and Manners of the Turks. 333
1
make three Beds, he fpread three Quilts, very
ſcanty and very hard, upon the Board we had eat
upon, and upon theſe he laid three Cloths, and
then a ſecond Cloth upon every one; but, accord-
ing to the Faſhion of the Country, the laſt Cloth
was few'd to the Counterpane, left it fhould flip
off in the Night. Every Bed had alſo its Pillow
and when we roſe, the fame Slave folded up the
Baggage in a Moment, and put it into the Cup-
board; and all this was done as ſwiftly as one can
ſhift the Decoration of an Opera.
;
The Idleneſs in which moft part of the Turks
live, obliges them to feek out for Amuſements,
which is the propereft Term on this occafion. When
they play together, it is only to paſs the time, as
they ſay, and not to win Money. Mahomet, who
had nothing in view but the Peace of Families and
the publick Tranquillity, has given them good
Principles about this Subject. Abſtain, ſays he,
from playing at Games of Hazard, and at Chefs: thefe
are the Inventions of the Devil, to caufe Divifion
among Men, to divert them from their Prayers, and
binder their calling upon the Name of God. As to Chefs,
they do not obey his Injunction, but they under-
ſtand neither Cards nor Dice: they play fometimes
at Drafts. The Mancala is their favourite Game:
it is a Table with two Leaves like a Draft-board,
and fix Spots on a fide: they play two at a time,
and each has 36 Men, which he ranges on the
Spots on his fide.
The moſt ingenious Muffulmen employ them-
felves in reading the Alcoran, and the Commen
tators upon it. Others take to Poetry, in which
they are faid to do very well; nor am I furpriz'd
at it, for the Blood of the fineſt Genius's Afia
and Greece has formerly produced, runs in their
Veins, or at leaſt they are under the Influences of
the fame Heaven. Some Turks delight in Mufick,
and
$34
AVOYAGE into the Levant.
and ſpend the whole Day in playing upon an In
ftrument without being tir'd, tho' they only re-
peat the fame Tune. The Dervifes are great
Muficians and great Dancers; but I muſt firſt
mention the Lawyers, before I fpeak of the
Religious.
The Mufti, who is at the head of the Lawyers,
is chief of their Religion, and the Interpreter of
the Alcoran. He is nam'd by the Sultan, and
feldom depos'd. The Sultan chufes a Man of Pro-
bity, learned in the Knowledge of the Law, and
whoſe Reputation is eſtabliſh'd. By this Choice
he becomes the moſt refpected Officer of the Em-
pire: he is the Oracle of the Country, and they
ſtand to all Decifions, which he makes only by
Yes or No, which he writes under the Queftion
propos'd. For this he has three Officers; one
who ftates the Queftion well, after having difen-
tangled it from the Difficulties which might ob-
fcure it; the other copies it out, and the third ap-
plies his Maſter's Seal to it, when he has given his
Anfwer. This Anfwer removes all Difficulties:
there is no Appeal, and the Matter is ended for
ever.
When it is about Peace or War, the Death
of great Officers, or fome Affairs relating to the
Good of the Empire, the Sultan propofes the
Point to him in Writing, in a form of a Doubt,
and without naming the Perfon; as thus, What
ought to be done in fuch a Cafe? It concerns the
Mufti to be circumfpect, for many times he is
confulted only out of Formality, and is depos'd,
if he does not anfwer according to the Prince's
Pleaſure. Sultan Morat having to do with a ftub-
born Mufti, demanded of him fiercely, Who was
it made thee Mufti? Your Highness, he reply'd.
Very well, faid the Sultan, fince I was able to clothe
thee with that Dignity, am I not able to strip thee of
it? It is not faid what the Mufti return'd, but he
was
The Religion and Manners of the Turks. 335
was degraded. There have been feveral Mufti's,
who have fign'd the Depofition and the Death of
the Emperors, who put them into their Places.
Tho' they perfuade People that the Alcoran is
a perfect Book, they do not forbear to give diffe-
rent Interpretations to the Law, according to the
Time and the Occafion. The Grand Signior pre-
fents the new Mufti with a Veft of great Price
furr'd with Sable, and with his own Hand puts
into his Bofom a Handkerchief full of Sequins.
This Preſent and the Veſt are valued at two thou-
fand Crowns. He alfo affigns him a Fund of a-
bout twenty five Crowns a Day, which is generally
rais'd upon fome Mofque. The Baffas who are at
the Court, and the Ambaffadors and Refidents
alfo make him a confiderable Prefent, when they
go to with him Joy of his Promotion. In a word,
the Mufti is the only Officer whom the Grand Sig-
nior falutes with Refpect. He never refufes him
Audience, and advances feveral Steps to receive
him. The Grand Vifier rifes up to none, nor
goes to any Perfon befides the Mufti. The Vifier
takes the left Hand of him, which is the Sword-
fide, and the moſt honourable Place among the
Profeffors of Arms, becauſe, they fay, thoſe who
are on their right Hand, are under their Sword;
but the Mufti and the Cadileſquers are very well
content to take the right Hand, which is the
Place of Honour among the Men of the Law:
there is alſo never any Difpute between them.
See here, how the Fancies of People are fatisfy'd.
If the Mufti is depos'd by the Intrigue of his
Enemies, in order to place one of their own Fac-
tion in fo advantageous a Poft; he has the Difpo-
fal given him of fome Employments of Judica-
ture, which bring him in a very noble Revenue.
But if the Mufti was guilty of High Treafon, or
any enormous Crime, it would be in vain for him
to
336 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
to ſay the Law forbids him to be put death; for he
would be degraded, and fent to the Seven Towers,
and there be pounded alive in a Mortar.
After the Mufti, the Cadilefquers are the Offi-
cers of Juftice the moſt honour'd in the Empire.
Next are the Moula or Moula-cadi's, call'd Grand
Cadi's, and the Cadi's or ordinary Judges. Among
the Cadilefquers, or chief Judges, he of Europe,
or Romania, is the Firft; he of Afia or Anatolia
the Second; and he of Egypt the Third. The
Cadilefquers do the Bufinefs of the Cadi in his ab-
fence: they very often come to be Mufti's, and
apply themſelves ftrictly to the Study of the Al-
coran, which is their civil and religious Code:
they are alſo ftil'd Judges of the Army, becauſe
the Soldiers are judg'd only by them. Their Place
at the Divan is at the Grand Vifier's fide, and they
appeal fometimes to them from the Sentence of
the Secular Cadi: in fhort, their Employment
obliges them to have an eye upon all the Officers
of Juftice in the Empire. They give out the
Cadi's Commiffions, and thofe of the Moula-cadi's;
but for the laſt, they muſt have the Grand Sig-
nior's Confent. Upon confiderable Complaints
well grounded, they depofe the Cadi's, and con-
demn them to a Fine, after they have fuffer'd the
Baftinado.
The Judges of the great Towns are call'd
Moula or Moula-cadi's; thofe of fmall Towns,
and of Boroughs and Villages, Cadi's. The Ad-
miniſtration of Juſtice lies wholly in the Hands of
this fort of Men in Turkey; and as all is corrupt-
ed at prefent, the Mufti is Penfioner to the Cadi-
lefquers, the Cadilefquers to the Moula, the Moula
to the Cadi's, and the Cadi's to the People.
Every Cadi has his Serjeants before him, to fum-
mon with a loud Voice thofe who are accus'd. If
he who is fummon'd, fails at the Hour appointed
him,
The Religion and Manners of the Turks. 337
him, they grant to the other Party all he defires.
It is commonly to no purpoſe to appeal from the
Sentence of the Cadi, for a Procefs is never
form'd over again: the Sentence would alſo be
perpetually confirm'd, becauſe the Cadi form'd it,
as he underſtood it; and it is by this he commits
horrible Abufes. However, the Cadi's are fome-
times cafhier'd; and if the Injuftices they have
acted, are flagrant, they are punish'd, but the Law
forbids the putting them to death. Thefe Offi-
cers have been known at Conftantinople ever fince
about 1390. for Bajazet I. obliged John Paleologus,
the Greek Emperor, to admit them into that City,
to judge the Affairs which happen'd between the
Greeks and the Turks who were fettled there.
The Prieſts and the Religious among the Turks
have the good luck to die in their Beds, as well
as the Cadi's. The Priests commonly begin with
proclaiming the Hours of Prayer in the Galleries
of the Pinacles. If they carry themfelves well,
and have a fair Reputation, the People of the
Pariſh preſent them to the Grand Vifier, upon the
Vacancy of the Cure; who diſpatches their Pre-
fentment, after having made them read fome
Paffages of the Alcoran, or after having laid this
Book upon their Head. The Employment of the
Prieſts is to fay Prayers, to read in the Mofques,
to blefs Marriages, to affift the dying, and accom-
pany the dead. To comfort the dying who
have Debts which they are unable to pay, the Cu-
rate calls the Creditors together, and exhorts them
to forgive them to the dying Perſon, or to de-
clare before Witneffes, that they will never demand
any thing of him. The Creditors, who are hard-
hearted enough to refufe this Favour, are reputed
very ill Men.
They wash the dead with a great deal of Care
in Tutey: they fhave them all over, and burn In-
Vol. II.
Z
Genfe
338
AVOYAGE into the Levant.
cenſe about them, to drive away the evil Spirits =
they bury them in a Cloth, open at top and bot-
tom; for they imagine, that when the dead Perfon
is laid in the Ground, two Angels come and make
him get upon his Knees, to give an account of his
Actions; for which reafon moft of the Turks leave
a Lock of Hair upon their Head, for the Angel,
who makes them thus change their Pofture, to
take hold on. That the Dead may be more at
cafe, they make a kind of Arch in the Grave, of
light Planks, upon which they lay them all along.
If the dead liv'd a good Life, two Angels, white
as Snow, fucceed to thofe who came to examine
him, and entertain him with nothing but repre-
fenting the Pleaſures he fhall tafte in the other
World; but if he was a great Sinner, two other
Angels, black as Jet, torment him horribly: one,
they fay, ftrikes him into the Earth with a Club,
and the other pulls him up again with an Iron
Hook; and they divert themſelves with this cruel
Exerciſe even to the Day of Judgement, without
difcontinuing it one Moment.
Mahomet, who had it upon his Hands to ma-
nage the Arabs, has treated them according to
their Tafte. As their Soil is an arid, dry Defert,
to comfort them, he has provided them a Paradife
full of Fountains, and Gardens, and Groves im-
penetrable by the Sun, Parterres abounding with
Flowers, and Orchards loaded with all forts of ad-
mirable Fruits. In this charming Place flows
Milk, Honey, and Wine; but it is a Wine which
never touches the Head, nor difturbs the Reaſon.
The moft accompliſh'd Beauties are up and down
in the Walks, and are neither too eafy nor teo
cruel. A Man fhall efpoufe what Women he
pleafes, for there all forts are to be found: their
Eyes, which are as large as an Egg, fhal be al-
ways faften'd upon their Huſbands, who le them
to
The Religion and Manners of the Turks. 339
to Dotage. Their Daughters, according to this.
Prophet, are all pure and unfpotted; and the Ma-
ladies peculiar to the Sex, are never heard of there
nor are Savine, Mercury, &c. known among
them. The beſt thing that Mahomet hath faid
concerning the other World, is, that they muſt
not be reckon❜d in the number of the dead, who
die in the ways of God, becauſe they live in Gcd,
and enjoy his Bleffings and his Love. The damn-
ed, on the contrary, are precipitated into a de-
vouring Fire, in the midft of which their Fleſh is
continually renew'd, in order to augment their
Puniſhment: they fhall fuffer an incredible Thirft,
without being able to cool themſelves with one
drop of Water; and if by chance any thing is
given them to drink, it will be a poifon'd Liquor,
which will fuffocate them without killing them:
and to compleat their Miferies, they ſhall have
there no Women.
I forgot to mention, that before they bury their
dead, they expofe them in the Houſe upon a Bier,
under a Pall of different Colours, according to the
Quality of the Perfons: this Pall is red for Men of
the Army, black for Citizens, and red for an
Emir or a Cherif: the Turbants which are laid
upon the Bier, are of the fame Colour with the
Pall. The Prieſts go before the Train, and pray
for the deceas'd; the Poor follow with the Slaves
and Horſes. There are alfo Mourners, as well as
in the Interments of the Greeks: thefe make a
mad fort of Mufick along the Street while the
Body is burying, and after it is bury'd: they cover
the Grave with certain Planks, upon which they
throw what Materials they find thereabout.
After this the Men retire, and the Women ſtay
there fome time: then the Priefts advance to the
Grave to liften, in order to inform the Relations if
the deceas'd makes a good Defence when the
Angels
Z z
340 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
Angels queftion him: they take care enough not
to fay he was confounded, becauſe they are well
paid when they tell good News. The Women
often go to pray upon their Hufbands Graves, but
it is always in open Day, and never by Night, for
fear fome Adventure fhould befall them, like that
of the Ephefian Matron. They fometimes carry
Victuals to eat in the Cemeteries, eſpecially on a
Friday: fome believe this eafes the dead; but the
more reaſonable fay it is done to draw the Paffen-
gers thither, to pray to God for the deceas’d.
One of the principal Reafons which cauſes the
Turks to bury the dead in the Highways, is, to
excite Paffengers to with them well; and the Wifh
is generally, That God would deliver them from the
Torments which the black Angels make them fuffer.
They fet up two great Stones at each end of the
Grave for Perfons of Diftinction: that at the head
fhews the Difference of Sex, by a Turbant or a
Bonnet; and it is in this fort of Work that the
Carvers of Conftantinople and the chief Towns of
the Empire are employ'd: the Epitaph is engrav'd
upon the other Stone. The Mafter-piece of the
chief Artifts is to make a Tomb for the Grand
Signior; in which notwithstanding, they fucceed
very ill, for they beftow Pains and Labour with-
out any Skill or Tafte. They commonly dig a-
mong the Ruins of the antient Towns to fearch for
pieces of Pillars, or fome old Marbles, to make
Grave-ftones of. They who take pleaſure in In-
fcriptions, fhould not neglect to vifit the Cemete-
ries, becauſe the Turks, the Greeks, and the Arme-
nians carry the fineſt Marbles thither. The Ceme-
teries are of a prodigious Extent, for they never
bury two Perfons in the fame Grave; and the
Ground they take up about Conftantinople, if it
were till'd, would bear Corn enough to feed that
great
The Religion and Manners of the Turks. 341
great City for half the Year; and there is Stone
enough in thein to build a ſecond Wall round it.
I am not acquainted well enough with the Turkif
Religious, to make a particular Defcription of the
different Orders among them; for I have feen
none but thoſe they call Dervifes. Thefe are the
chief Monks, who live in a Body in Monafteries
under a Superior, who applies himſelf principally
to Preaching: they make a Vow of Poverty, Cha-
ftity, and Obedience; but they eafily give them-
felves a Difpenfation from the two former, and
quit their Order alfo without Scandal, to marry
when the Humour takes them. It is a Maxim
with the Turks, that a Man's Head is too light
and giddy to continue long in the fame Difpofi-
tion. The General of the Order of the Dervi-
fès refides at Cogna, which was the antient Iconium,
the Capital of Lycaonia in the fmaller Afta. Otto-
man, the firit Emperor of the Turks, erected the
Superior of the Convent of this City into Chief
of the Order, and granted great Privileges to this
Houfe. They lay it holds above five hundred Re-
ligious, and that their Founder was a Sultan of
the fame Town, call'd Melelava, from whence
they came to be call'd Milelevi's: they have this
Sultan's Tomb in their Convent.
The Dervifes who wear Shirts, have them, by
way of Penitence, of the coarſeft Cloth they can
get; and thole who wear none, have a woollen
Veft next their Skin, of a brown Colour, made at
Cogna, and which reaches a little below the Calf
of the Leg: they button it when they have a
mind, but most part of the Year they go open
to their Skin as low as their Girdle, which is ge-
nerally of black Leather. The Sleeves of this
Veft are as large as our Women's Shifts in France;
and upon this they wear a fort of Caffock or Cloke,
the Arms of which come no lower than the El-
23
bow.
342 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
bow. Theſe Monks go bare-legg'd, and fome-
times they uſe the common Slipper: upon their
Head they have a Bonnet of Camel's Hair of
darkiſh white, without any Brims, and made in
the Form of a Sugar-loaf, but rounded at top
like a Dome: fome roll a piece of Linen about it,
to make a Turbant of it.
In the preſence of their Superiors and Strangers
thefe Religious obferve an affected Modefty, turn-
ing down their Eyes, and keeping a profound Si-
lence: but in other Points they are faid not to be
fo modeft, for they are great Drinkers of Aqua
Vita. The Ufe of Opium is more familiar to
theſe than to other Turks. This Drug, which is
Poifon to them who are not accuftom'd to it, and
a fmall Dofe of which would kill other People,
throws the Derviſes, who take it by Ounces at a
time, into a Gayety equal to what Men have, who
drink a plentiful Quantity of Wine. A pleafing
Fury, which one may ftile Enthufiafm, fucceeds
this Gayety, and makes them pafs for extraordina-
ry Perfons, if one is ignorant of the Caufe: but
as their Blood is too much attenuated by this Drug,
it occafions a confiderable Difcharge of Serofity
in the Brain, and fo cafts them into a Slumber, and
they lie a whole Day without ftirring a Hand or
Foot. This kind of Lethargy feizes them every
Thurſday, which is their Day of fatting; during
which they dare not eat, according to their Rules,
tho' it be after Sun-fet.
The Derviſes value themſelves much upon their
Politeness. Their Beards are very clean and well
comb'd: and their Verfes never turn upon the
Women, unleſs it is upon thofe whom they hope
to ſee one Day in Paradife. They are no longer
fuch Fools, as to cut and flaſh their Bodies, as they
did formerly; for now they fcarcely raze the Skin:
however, they burn themſelves fometimes on the
fide
Vol.H
A Dance of
A Dance of Dervices
་
pag. 88.
1.
*
The Religion and Manners of the Turks. 343
fide of their Heart with fmall Wax-candles, as a
Mark of their Tenderneſs to the Object of their
Love. They draw the admiration of the People
by handling of Fire without being burnt: they
will hold it alſo in their Mouth a good while, like
our Mountebanks. They perform a thouſand
Feats of Activity, and play with the Jugler's
Box furprizingly. They pretend to charm Vipers
by a fpecifick Virtue adhering to their Clothes,
and are the only Turks who travel into the Eastern
Countries: they go into the Mogul's Dominions,
and thereabouts, picking up Alms in abundance,
and always take care to make their Meals at their
Religious Houſes which lie in their way. Mufick
is one part of their Study: their finging feem'd to
us to be very fad, and yet harmonious; and tho' it
is forbidden by the Alcoran to praife God with
Inftruments, yet they have fet it on Foot in fpite
of the Edicts of the Sultan, and the Perfecution of
the Bigots.
The principal Exercifes of the Derviles are to
dance upon Tueſdays and Fridays; and this Co-
medy is preceded by a Preachment by the Supe-
rior of the Convent, or his Sub-delegate. Their
Morals, they fay, are good, and may be of excel-
lent ufe to Perfons of any Religion. The Wo-
men, who are banifh'd from all publick Places
where the Men refort, are permitted to attend
chefe Preachments, and never fail to be prefent.
During the time, thefe Religious fit within a Bal-
luftrade, upon their Legs, with their Arins acroſs,
and their Hands turn'd down: after the Sermon,
the Singers, who are placed in a Gallery, which
ſerves for an Orchestre, ftrike up their Voices to
the Fifes and Tabors, and fing a very long Hymn.
At the fecond Stanza the Superior, in a Stole and
a Veft with hanging Sleeves, claps his Hands; at
which Signal the Monks get up, and having fa-
Z 4
luted
344
A VOYAGE into the Levant.
luted him with a profound Reverence, begin to
turn round one after another, and whirl about fo
fwiftly, that the Doublet they have upon their Veft,
flies out, and fpreads juft like a Tent, in a furpriz-
ing manner. All theſe Dancers form a great
Circle as merry as can be; but at the firft Stroke
or Signal of the Superior, they give over, and re-
turn to their firft Pofture as calmly as if they
had never mov'd. They repeat this Dance at the
fame Signal three or four times, the laft of which
is much the longeft, becaufe the Monks are then
well in Breath; and by a long Habitude, they
finiſh this Exercife without being giddy. As
much Veneration as the Turks have for thefe Reli-
gious, they don't fuffer them to have many Con-
vents, becauſe they never efteem fuch Perfons as do
not beget Children. Sultan Morat defign'd to
extirpate the Derviſes, as a fort of Men ufelefs to
the Republick, and for whom the People had too
much Confideration; but he contented himſelf
with confining them to their Convent of Cogna.
They have alſo a Houfe at Pera, and another
upon the Thracian Bofphorus. We heard their
Preachment in their Convent at Prufa in Bythinia,
and faw them dance with a great deal of Pleaſure
thro' the Rails of the Mofque.
The Armenian Merchants in our Caravan, who
fpoke Italian, explain'd to us part of the Sermon.
The principal Subject was upon Jefus Chrift. The
Preacher declam'd againſt the Jews, but coolly,
for they are never in a Tranſport, and found fault
with the Chriftians extremely, for believing the
Jews had put to death fo great a Prophet; affur-
ing us on the contrary, that he afcended into Hea-
ven, and that the Jews crucify'd another in his
ftead.
I know not how to conclude more nobly, than
by obferving the Efteem the Turks have for Jefus
Christ;
The Religion and Manners of the Turks. 345
Chrift; fo far is it from being true, that they vo-
mit out Blafphemies againſt him, as fome Travel-
lers have told us. If the Turks have the misfor-
tune not to believe the Divinity of Jefus Chrift,
they reverence him at leaſt as a great Friend of
God, and eſpecially as a great Interceffor before
the Lord. They confefs he was fent from God,
to deliver a Law full of Grace; and if they treat
us as Infidels, it is not becauſe we believe in Jefus
Chriſt, but for not believing that Mahomet came
after him, to publiſh another Law, lefs oppofite
to corrupted Nature.
I am, MY LORD, &c.
LET.
[346]
LETTER
VIII.
To Monseigneur the Count de Pontchartrain,
Secretary of State, &c.
MY LORD,
A Deſcription
of the Canalof B fcription of the Black Sea, I beg
the Black Sea. you to allow me the Honour to give
EFORE I engage in the De-
you an Account of what we obſerv'd as to the
Canal whereby it diſcharges itſelf into the Sea of
Marmara, which makes part of the White Sea,
according to the Language of the Turks.
The Canal of the Black Sea, [b] or the Bospho-
rus of Thrace, begins properly at the Point of the
Seraglio of Conftantinople, and ends towards the
Column of Pompey. Herodotus, Polybius, Strabo,
and Menippus, quoted by Stephanus Byzantinus [c],
make it 120 Stadia in length, which come to fif-
teen Miles: but they place the Beginning of that
Canal between Byzantium and Chalcedon, and the
End at the Temple of Jupiter, where the new
Caſtle of Afia ftands at prefent. Tho' this Dif-
ference be arbitrary, yet after Infpection of the
Places, every body would, I believe, agree in my
Meaſures. This Canal is very far from being in a
right Line: its Entrance, which on the fide of
the Black Sea has the Form of a Tunnel, looks to
the North-eaft, and is to be taken from the Co-
lumn of Pompey, whence we reckon about three
Miles to the new Caftles. That of Aſia is built
upon a Cape [d] where the Temple of [e] Jupiter
the Distributer of good Winds, is thought formerly
[5] Βόσπορος Θράκιος. Polyb. & Strab. Βόσπορος τῆς Χαλ-
novins. Herod. lib. 4. [c] On the Word Xaλundar.
[4] Αργυρόνιον Ακρα. [e] Jupiter Urius, "Ovelos.
to
Defcript. of the Canal of the Black Sea. 347
to have been; upon which account that Place is
ftill call'd foro, by corruption, from Jeron, which
fignifies a Temple. The Caftle of Europe is on
an oppofite [f] Cape, near which ftood, in times
paft, the Temple of Serapis, mention'd by [g]
Polybius. From thefe Caftles the Canal forms a
great Elbow, in which are the Gulphs of Saraia
and Tharabia; and from this Elbow it runs South-
eaft towards the Seraglio call'd Sultan Solyman
Kiofc, five Miles diftant from the Caftles. After
this, by another Elbow fhap'd like a Zig-zag, the
fame Canal crimps by little and little to the South,
till it comes to the Point of the Seraglio, where
in my Opinion it ends. From this laft Elbow to
the Old Caftles is reckon'd two Miles and a half;
and thence to the Seraglio, or Point of Byzantium,
fix. Thus, according to this Computation, the
whole Canal is fixteen Miles and a half long,
which is not very different from the Account of the
Ancients, who gain'd on the Side of Chalcedon,
where they placed the Beginning of the Canal,
what they foft between the Temples of Jupiter
and Serapis, and the Column of Pompey.
The breadth of the Canal at the new Caftles,
where thofe Temples ftood, is a Mile; and a
Mile and a half, or two Miles, in fome other
parts. The narroweft part of all is at the old
Caftles, whereof that of Europe is upon the Rifing,
on which the Ancients, as Polybius informs us,
had built a Temple to Mercury; for which reafon
it was nam'd the Hermean Cape. This Cape lay
half way in the Canal, according to the Ancients,
who, as we have already faid, terminated it on
one fide between Chalcedon and Byzantium, and on
the other at the Temple of Jupiter. This part
is not more than 800 Paces broad, and the Canal
[8] Σαραπικον τῆς
[f] Mixtov Axeg, Dion. Bizant.
xns. Polyb. hift. lib. 4.
is
348 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
is very near as narrow a little lower at Courichifme,
a Village built at the Foot of the Cape, which
the Ancients call'd [b] Efties, whence it widens to
the Seraglio for the length of a Mile, or a Mile
and a half. Thus the Waters of the Black Sea en-
ter with fufficient Swiftneſs into the Canal of the
new Caftles, and have free room to extend them-
felves in the Gulphs of Saraia and Tharabia. From
thence, without running at all fafter, they wind
towards the Kiofc of Sultan Solyman, where they
are forced to turn towards the South, without any
viſible Augmentation of their Motion, except be-
tween the old Caftle, where the Channel grows
ftraiter.
In this part (as Polybius remarks) beſides that
the narrowing of the Canal increaſes the Swiftneſs
of the Water, it is reflected obliquely from the
Cape of Mercury, on which is the old Caftle of
Europe, against the Cape of Candil-bachefi in Afia,
and returns towards Europe about Courichifme at
Cape Efties, whence it flows through by the Point
of the Seraglio. This is what Polybius obferv'd in
his time, that is, in the time of Scipio and Lelius,
with whom he was intimately acquainted. For
my part, I own I could not obferve this Indent-
edness of Motion on this fide the Caftles, tho' I
pafs'd the Canal four or five times; but it is certain,
that upon a North Wind the Rapidity is fo great
between the two Caftles, that no Veffel can ſtop
itſelf, nor get back again, without a Wind con-
trary to the Current: yet the Swiftnefs of the
Waters diminiſhes fo fenfibly, that you may go
down and up, without any Difficulty, when the
Winds are not violent.
Independently of the Winds, there are fome
very particular Currents in the Canal of the Black
Sea: the moft apparent is that which runs all a-
long it, from the opening of the Black Sea to the
[b] Esias. Pölyb hift. lib. 4.
Sea
Defcript. of the Canal of the Black Sea. 349
Sea of Marmara, which is the Propontis of the An-
cients. Before this Current enters the Canal, it
beats in part againſt the Point of the Seraglio, as
Polybius, Xiphilinus, and after them M. Gilles have
obferv'd: for one part of thefe Waters (tho' the
leaſt confiderable) flows into the Port of Constan-
tinople, or the antient Byzantium, and following
the Weitern Windings, runs into the Nook which
goes by the Name of the Fresh Waters: nay, Po-
lybius and Xiphilinus had a notion, that theſe Waters
reflected, form'd that celebrated Port, which the
Ancients admir'd by the name of the Golden Horn,
upon account of the Riches it brought to that
powerful City. That Portion therefore of the
Canal which goes into the Port of Constantinople,
makes a Current that follows the Turn of the
Walls of the City: all the reft diſcharges itſelf
into the Sea of Marmara, between the Seraglio
and Chalcedon.
Monfieur le Comte Marfilly hath obferv'd, that
the two little Rivers of the Fresh Waters form'd a
Current in the Port of Constantinople, from the
North-weft to the Eaſt, which, as it were, fweeping
the Coafts of Galata and Topana, proceeds along
thofe of Fondaxli, quite to Arnautcui, going up
the Canal on the fide of the Caſtles, in a courſe op-
pofite to the great Current. When we know this,
we fhall not be furpriz'd that fome Boats go up un-
der favour of this little Current, while others go
down by keeping in the great one. It is likely,
the Stream that goes out of the Port, glancing fide-
ways againſt the great Current, flides towards the
North; whereas if it run againft it in any other
line than fideways, it would bear it along with it,
or beat it back. M. le Comte Marfilly has alfo ob-
ferv'd, that there is a little Current in the Corner
of the Coast of Scutari; fo that the Waters of
the great Current that ftrike againft Cape Scu-
tari,
350 AVOYAGE into the Levant.
tari, are reflected back towards the North. Ac-
cording to the Obfervations of that learned Man,
the Waters of the great Current being arrived
at Cape Modabouron, afcend again along the
Coaft of Chalcedon towards Cape Scutari, and
make another Sort of Current.
This Diverſity of Currents has nothing in it
very extraordinary. It is eafy to conceive, that
a Cape, which juts out too far, muft ftrike back
the Waters that run againſt it, in a certain Line;
but it is hard to account for another hidden Cur-
rent, which we fhall henceforth call the under
Current, becauſe it is obfervable only in the great
Canal beneath the great Current, which we may
call the upper Current, which flows quite from
the Caſtles to the Sea of Marmara. We are
therefore to take notice, that the Waters which
poffefs the Surface of this Canal to a certain depth,
run from the Caftles to the Seraglio. This is in-
conteftable: but it is alfo certain, that beneath
theſe Waters there is one Part of the Water of
the fame Canal, which moves in a contrary Di-
rection; that is to fay, goes back up towards
the Caſtles.
Procopius of Cefarea, who lived in the fixth
Century, informs us, that the Fishermen took
notice, that their Nets, inſtead of finking per-
pendicularly to the Bottom of the Canal, were
dragg'd from the North towards the South, when
they came to a certain Depth; while the other
Part of the fame Nets, which defcended beyond
that Depth to the Bottom of the Canal, were
bent a contrary way. There is alſo great likeli-
hood, that this Obfervation is ftill more ancient,
for the Bofphorus has in all times been very famous
for fishing. This Canal is call'd Fishy in the
Infcription which Mandrocles caufed to be fet un-
der the Picture, wherein he had repreſented the
Bridge
Defcript. of the Canal of the Black Sea. 351
Bridge over which Darius march'd with his
Army, when he went to fight the Scythians.
Procopius tells us, that according to the Remarks
of the Fiſhermen, the two oppofite Currents,
one upper and the other under, are very percep
tible in that Part of the Bofphorus, which is call'd
the Abyfs. Perhaps thereabouts may be a deep
Gulph form'd by a Rock, in fhape hollow like
the Bowl of a Spoon, the hollow part looking to-
wards the Caſtles: for according to this Suppo-
fition, the Waters that are to the Bottom of the
Canal, fhocking violently againſt this Rock, muft
by ſuch Reflection take a Determination contrary
to what they had before; that is to fay, they muft
run back towards the Caſtles, and confequently
flow in a Line oppofite to that of the upper Cur-
rent. The ſhort abode we made at Conftantinople,
would not allow us to examine into this Wonder.
M. Gilles fpeaks of it as of a very extraordinary
thing, and M. le Comte Marfilly obferv'd it with
great Attention; and indeed I think nothing can
be more worthy of Obfervation. That ſkilful
Philofopher would not venture to give his Opinion,
as to the Explication of fo fingular an Effect; and
I propoſe mine, only to fpur on the Learned to
ſearch into the true Caufe of this Phenomenon.
Neither is it eaſy to give a reaſon, why, when
the Bofphorus difcharges fo little Water, the Black
Sea, which receives fo prodigious a quantity,
ſhould not become larger. That Sea, whofe
Extent is fo confiderable, befides the Palus Meo-
tis, another Sea well worth notice, receives more
Rivers than the Mediterranean. Every body
knows, that the greateſt Collections of Water in
Europe fall into the Black Sea by means of the
Danube, into which run the Rivers of Suabia,
Franconia, Bavaria, Auftria, Hungary, Moravia,
Carinthia, Croatia, Belnia, Servia, Tranfylvania,
Wallachia.
352 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
Wallachia. Thofe of Little Ruffia and Podolia rún
into the fame Sea by the means of the Niefter.
Thoſe of the Southern and Eaſtern Parts of Po-
land, of North Muscovy, and of the Country of
the Coffacks, come into it by the Nieper or Bori-
sthenes. Do not the Tanais and Copa pafs into the
Black Sea by the Cimmerian Bofphorus ? The Rivers
of Mengrelia, whereof the Phafis is the chief,
empty themſelves alfo into the Black Sea, as do
likewiſe the Caſalmac, the Sangaris, and the other
Rivers of Afia Minor, whofe Courſe is to the
North. And yet the Bosphorus of Thrace is not
comparably equal to any one of the great Rivers
we have here named. It is alfo certain, that the
Black Sea does not increaſe; tho' according to
the Rules of Phyficks, a Refervoir fhould grow
fuller, when its Diſcharge is not anſwerable to the
Quantity of Water it receives. The Black Sea
muſt therefore empty itſelf as well by fubterra-
nean Canals, which perhaps may run through
Afia and Europe, as by the continual Expence of
its Waters, which foak into the Ground, and
flow far away from the Coaſts. This kind of
Tranſpiration is like that of the Body of Animals,
which, according to Santorius's Computation, is
much more confiderable than any made by the
moft fenfible Evacuations.
Suppofing the Black Sea to have been a mere
Lake without any Diſcharge, form'd by the
Concourſe of ſo many Rivers, it could not poffi-
bly empty itſelf, according to the Conformation
of the Place, any otherwife than by the Thracian
Bofphorus: the Mountains that are between the
Black Sea and the Cafpian, oppofed its Paffage to
the Eaft. The Waters of the Palus Meotis fall
into the Black Sea on the Side of the North, in-
ftead of allowing thofe of the Black Sea to fall
in upon them. The Rivers of Afia repel the
Black
Defcript. of the Canal of the Black Sea. 353
Black Sea from the South to the North. The Da-
nube drives it from its Mouths on the Weft. There
was therefore no place but this Corner, which is
to the North-eaft above Conftantinople, where it
could work away the Earth without oppofition,
between the Light-houſe of Europe and that of
Afia. Neither could it diſcharge itſelf on the
Side of either of thofe Light-houſes, the Coafts
there being very dreadfully ſteep: fo that the Wa-
ters of the Black Sea were forced through a place,
which confifted of nothing but Soil; and through
this Soil it was that they began to dig themſelves
a Canal, by pouring upon it in front with a Co-
lumn that foak'd through the Earth, and carry'd
away at ſeveral ſhakes. According to this Hy-
pothefis, the Waters firſt made themſelves a paf-
fage in a ftraight Line between the two Rocks
where the new Caftles now ftand, and foften'd the
Ground of the firft Elbow, where now we fee the
Gulphs of Saraia and Tharabia, and were then
compell'd to remain fome time in a Bafon edg'd
with very high Rocks; but their natural Difpofi-
tion afterwards made them defcend to the Kiofc
of Solyman II. and from thence their Determina-
tion being alter'd by the Interruption of new
Rocks, they form'd the fecond Elbow of the Ca-
nal, the Earth whereof gave way to the South.
it
This Route was certainly traced out by the Au-
thor of Nature; for according to the Laws of
Motion by him eſtabliſh'd, the Waters always
throw themſelves that way where they find leaft
oppofition. Thofe of the Black Sea continu'd
then to wash away the Earth that lay between the
two Rocks where the old Caſtles are, and by this
means carry'd their Canal quite to the Point of
the Seraglio, the bottom of which is a living
Rock, not by any means to be fhaken. This
large Heap of Waters did probably throw down
Vol. II.
A a
at
1!
354 AVOYAGE into the Levant.
at once the Dike of Earth that remain'd between
Conftantinople and Cape Scutari, and fo diſcharged
itſelf into the Sea of Marmara.
At this time, if we may judge by appearances,
happen'd the great Inundation ſpoken of by Dio-
dorus Siculus [i], one of the moſt faithful Hiſtori-
ans of Antiquity. That Author informs us, that
the People of Samothracia [k], a confiderable
Inland fituated to the Left of the Etrance of the
Dardanelles, perceiv'd the Irruption that the Pon-
tus Euxinus made in the Propontis by the Aperture
of the Cyanean Islands; for the Pontus Euxinus,
which was then look'd upon to be a great Lake,
was fo fwell'd by the diſcharge of the Rivers
which run into it, that it overflow'd into the Pro-
pontis, and drown'd part of the Cities on the Coaſt
of Afia, which undoubtedly was lower than that
of Europe. But notwithſtanding this Situation,
the Waters mounted to the very tops of the high-
eſt Mountains of Samothracia, and changed the
Face of the whole Country. The Iſlanders had
ftill the Tradition of it among them in the time
of our Hiſtorian, who thereby has preferv'd us
one of the fineſt Obfervations in all Antiquity;
for it is certain this Alteration happen'd long be-
fore the Voyage of the Argonauts, and thofe He-
roes undertook that Voyage but 1263 Years be-
fore Chrift. This being fo, what we just now
propos'd, as a philofophical Conjecture, becomes
an Hiftorical Truth, and muft convince us, that
the great Paffage of the Propontis into the Mediter-
ranean was made long before by the fame Me-
chanifm.
It is very probable, that the Waters of the
Propontis, which anciently might be nothing but
a Lake form'd by the Granicus and Rhyndacus,
finding it more eafy to work themſelves a Canal
[i] Biblioth. Hift. lib. 5. p. 322. [k] Sanmandraki.
by
Defcript. of the Canal of the Black Sea. 355
by the Dardanelles, than any other way, fpread
themſelves into the Mediterranean, and wafh'd a-
way the Fleſh of the Rocks (if we may be al-
lowed fuch an Expreffion) by melting the Earth
from them. The Iflands of the Propontis are no
more than the Remains of the Rocks which the
Waters could not diffolve; as alfo were thoſe
which made fo much noife anciently by the name
of the Cyanean Iſlands of Europe and Asia at the
Mouth of the Black Sea. The Iflands feem to be
fo many Nails drove into the Globe of the Earth,
and of which the Mountains are as it were the
Heads.
But what Changes did not the Iſlands of the
[1] Egean Sea undergo, by the overflowing of the
Euxine, and more eſpecially thofe which lie, as it
were, in a right Line; fince that of Samothrace,
adjacent to the Canal, was fo overwhelm'd with
its Inundation, that the Inhabitants were at their
wits end [m]? The Fishermen, when the Waters
were abated, would frequently draw out with their
Nets Chapiters of Pillars, and other Limbs of
Architecture. Confidering what violent work
the Waters made in the Sea of Greece, can it be
thought ftrange in the Hiftorians and Poets of
old to give out, that feveral Iſlands of the Archi-
pelago funk to the bottom, and new ones fprung
out of them? Peradventure the famous Delos ap-
pear'd then for the first time, and the People of
the neighbouring Iſlands gave it that Name, which
fignifies Manifeft. And yet most of the antient
Authors are look'd upon as fo many Dotards, and
Tellers of old Wives Fables. How many Colo-
nies muſt needs have been fettled after fuch a De-
vaftation! and how do we know whether the
Works of thofe, who gave an account of thefe
Revolutions, are extant, as well as thofe of Diodorus?
[] Archipelago. [m] Diod. Sic. Biblioth. ibid.
A a 2
Thofe
356 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
Thoſe Paffages in Pliny, which feem to us to be
moſt incredible, are perhaps the beſt Pieces of
many Authors who wrote of theſe Matters, and
whofe other Writings are loft.
I aſk your Lordſhip's Pardon, if I dwell a lit-
tle longer on the Subject of Philofophy: The Ex-
ample of a learned Miniſter, to whom the World
is beholden on many accounts, has put me out of
my way: not that I mean to follow him in every
thing; for as great an Admiral as he was, and as
much us'd to the Sea, I can't help thinking he
took the Formation thereof in a Senſe diametri-
cally oppofite to what is conſonant to Nature. He
was of opinion, that the Ocean, by its Impetuo-
fity, having diſmember'd the Mountain of Calpe
from the Lands of Africa, pour'd itſelf into that
vaft Space now the Mediterranean: that this Sea
afterwards penetrating notherly, produced the
Propontis or Sea of Marmara, the Black Sea, and
the Meotic Lakes. But independent of Diodorus's
Obfervation, if we confider the Formation of
things gradatim, is it not more reaſonable to look
upon the Meotic Lakes, the Black Sea, the Pro-
pontis, and the Mediterranean, as fo many huge
Lakes of Water form'd by multitudes of Rivers
diſburdening themſelves into them, than to fancy
them the Expanſions of the Ocean? What could
become of the Waters which were gathering day
and night in the fame Bafins? Doubtlefs they
form'd Lakes of a prodigious Extent, which at
length would have cover'd all the adjoining Lands,
had they not broke down their Dykes in the man-
ner before-mention'd.
'Tis there for certain that the Waters of the
North do fall into the Mediterranean thro' the Bof-
phorus Cimmerius, the Bofphorus Thracius, and the
Canal of the Dardanelles, which, according to
the Idea of the Ancients, is another fort of Bof-
phorus;
Defcript. of the Canal of the Black Sea. 357
phorus; that is to fay, an Arm of the Sea, nar-
row enough for an Ox to ſwim over. The Me-
diterranean diſcharges itſelf into the Ocean at the
Straits of Gibraltar, where by good Fortune it was
eaſier for the Water to fcoop itſelf a Canal, than
to overfpread the Lands of Africa. The All-
wife God had left this Opening between Mount
Atlas and that of Calpe; the Plug, as one may
fay, only wanted to be pull'd out. Perhaps the
terrible Irruption which was then made into the
Ocean, either funk or carried away that famous
Iſle of Atalantis, which Plato [n] deſcribes beyond
the Coaſt of Spain, and Diodorus Siculus [o] beyond
that of Africa. The Canary Islands, the Azores,
and America, may be (for ought we know) in the
fame Predicament: where then is the Wonder
they ſhould be peopled by the Defcendents of Adam
and Noah, or that their Inhabitants fhould uſe the
fame Weapons as the antient Afiaticks and Euro-
peans, namely, Bow and Arrow?
Pliny had therefore better ſtick to the Opinion of
fome Authors who were not unknown to him, and
who, as he himſelf confeffes, brought into the O-
cean the Waters from the North to the South.
How fhall we judge of the courfe of ſtagnant Wa-
ter, the Saone for inftance, or la Marche, but by
their Currency under the Arches of their refpective
Bridges? Now in the Bosphorus's before-mention-
ed, this Currency is apparent. There is but one
Circumftance which can favour Pliny's Opinion,
and that is, the Saltnefs of the Water in all Seas.
It is impoffible to account how thefe large Lakes
we are ſpeaking of, and which are form'd by no-
thing but the Acceffion of frefh-water Rivers,
fhould be endu'd with this brackish Quality. But
befides the Ocean's communicating with the Me-
n] In Tim. tom. pag. 24. Edit. Henric. Steph. [0] Bi-
blioth. Hift. lib. 5.
A a 3
diterranean,
358 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
diterranean, it is certain, that the Water of the
Black Sea is far lefs briny than that of our Seas;
befides, all round the Black Sea, the Land is full
of foffile Salt, which is continually melting into
it: this Salt, mix'd with a certain Portion of Sui-
phur accruing from the Oil of the Fiſhes, which
are there conftantly putrefying, heightens this
degree of Saltneſs, and imparts that tang of Bit-
terneſs fo fenfible in Sea-water. The Cafpian Sea,
for the fame reaſon, is as falt as other Seas, tho'
it looks to be only a Pool, which receives nothing
but freſh Water continually running into it.
Before we return to the Canal of the Black Sea,
it will not be amifs to take notice, that Polybius's
Prophecy is not fulfill'd. He, good Man, fancy'd
that the Euxine Sea would one day become a Mo-
raſs, and that very fuddenly too; becauſe, ſaid
he, the Mud and Sludge which is carried thither
by the Rivers, muft form a Bar capable of chok-
ing up the Mouth of it, as happen'd to the Da-
nube in his time. 'Tis well for the Turks, who
enjoy great Advantages from their Trade to the
Black Sea, that the Bofphorus is ftill open, and
perhaps wider than formerly it was. Come what
will come, there's no need to fear any fuch thing:
a Bar never comes but at the Mouth of fuch Ri-
vers, whofe Waters are beaten back to Land by
the Surges of the Sea, and by the Tides. There's
nothing in this Canal to give the Waters of the
Black Sea a retrograde Motion: on the contrary,
'tis an evacuating Paffage, thro' which the Wa-
ter glides of itſelf; and being ever and anon
pinch'd, as it were, and contracted by the Defi-
lees of the Land, acquires a Velocity, and fweeps
away whatever may oppofe its Progrefs. As for
the Tides, Strabo has obferv'd there were none at
all in the Bosphorus; and Count Marfilly takes no-
tice that they were not perceptible. As rapid as
this
Defcript. of the Canal of the Black Sea. 359
this Bofphorus is, it is fometimes frozen over. Zo-
naras writes, that in the Reign of Conftantine Copro-
nymus there happen'd fo fevere a Winter, that
People walk'd upon the Ice from Conftantinople to
Scutari; nay, that it bore Carts too. In 401, the
Black Sea itſelf was frozen for twenty Days; and
when the Weather broke, fuch Mountains of Ice
paſs'd by Conftantinople, as frighted the Inhabitants.
In the Summer-time both Sides of the Bofpho-
rus afford a delicate Profpect. The Villages and
Pleaſure-houfes difpers'd among the Forefts make
a very delightful Landfkip, diverfify'd with little
Hills cover'd over with Coppices. The Letter I
wrote containing an account of Conftantinople,
concludes with a Defcription of the Pavillion call-
ed Fanari-kiofc. I am now going to give a De-
ſcription of the Afiatick Coaft, from the Canal of
the Black Sea, up as far as the Light-houſe be-
yond its Mouth; after which I fhall paſs over to the
Light-houſe and Pompey's Pillar, on the fide of
Europe; and fo coafting along the faid Canal,
return again to Conftantinople.
I could no where have met with better Guides
upon this Canal, than Dionyfius Byzantinus a Greek
Author, and another that was a Frenchman. The
Deſcription which the former has given of the
Thracian Bofphorus, is exact to a nicety. An Edi-
tion of it from the Manufcripts in the Vatican, and
the King's Library, has been promis'd us by Hol-
ftenius and M. du Cange; but they have not had
leifure to be as good as their words. M. Gilles,
my other Guide, and a Frenchman, has with won-
derful Accuracy confirm'd upon the ſpot the De-
fcription made by Dionyfius, not forgetting the
Name of the fmalleft Rock. I hope your Lord-
ſhip will approve of the Plan of the Bosphorus I
fend you it is drawn according to the Rules,
the Diſtances well mark'd, and no confiderable
Fault, that I know of, in the Pofition of Towns.
I thought
A a 4
360 AVOYAGE into the Levant.
I thought it neceffary to add to the old Greek
Names thofe given them by the Turks, in order
to illuftrate the Obfervations made by Dionyfius
and Gilles. The firft is thought to have liv'd a-
bout the time of Domitian; the other was of the
Diocefs of Alby, and dy'd at Rome in 1555, after
he had travell❜d into Afia and Africa by Order of
Francis Í. to make Collections of Manuſcripts and
antique Monuments.
To begin a Defcription of the Canal of the
Black Sea, we muſt refume that of Conftantinople,
which concludes at Fanari-kiofc, built on the Cape
of Chalcedon. To the Eaft of this Cape is one of
the Ports which the Ancients call'd Eutrope,
where the Children of the Emperor Maurice were
put to death by order of Phocas, who dethron'd
him in the beginning of the 7th Century. The
Emperor's Widow and her three Daughters had
their Heads ftruck off five Years after. It looks
as if this Port was pre-ordain'd for the Butchery
of this unhappy Family. The Emperor Juftinian
caus'd it to be repair'd in a manner becoming his
Greatnefs of Soul.
Paffing the Port of [p] Eutrope, you double
the [q] Cape of Modabouron, which terminates the
Peninfula, on whofe Ifthmus the famous City of
Chalcedon ftood. I am prone to believe that this
Cape went heretofore by the Name of Herea, for
Stephanus Byzantinus places it over againſt that
Town, and quotes fome Verſes of Demofthenes of
Bithynia, who affigns it the fame Situation. The
Coaft of Calamoti extends beyond the Cape, and
is fo call'd from a Church of St. John Chryfoftom,
built in a Morafs full of Rufhes [r]. The other
Port of Chalcedon is on the fame Coaft on the
bending part of the Ifthmus facing the Weft, and
[q] Port of Chalcedon or Calamoti.
[p] Port of Irene.
[r]ó Kánayos, Ruſh.
confe-
Defcript. of the Canal of the Black Sea. 361
confequently the City of Conftantinople. The Em-
peror Juftinian had expended immenfe Sums in
forming Jettees, to hinder the entring of more
than one Ship at a time: of theſe Works there is
nothing now left but the Foundations. This
fhews how injudicious they were, who made choice
of this place for the building of Chalcedon, fince
they were forced to make two artificial Ports,
whereas the Port of Byzantium is by Nature the
fineſt Port in the World. This ill Choice occa-
fion'd the Oracle of Apolio, and Megabizės, Gene-
ral of Darius's Troops, to call the Founders blind
Buzzards: Pliny too gives it the Appellative of the
Blindmens City.
Conftantine the Great, had it not been for an a-
ftoniſhing Prodigy, had committed the like Over-
fight, if we may credit Cedrenus. The Perfians
having deftroy'd Chalcedon, and that Emperor
having order'd it to be rebuilt, as they were go-
ing to work upon it, feveral Eagles came, and
with their Talons took away the Stones from the
Workmen, and carried them to Byzantium. This
Miracle being feveral times repeated, the whole
Court was alarm'd: Euphratas, one of the Em-
peror's chief Minifters, affur'd him it was the
Will of God he fhould build a Church at Byzan-
tium, in honour of the Virgin. Chalcedon feems
to have been built on purpoſe to embelliſh Byzan-
tium; for when the Emperor Valens had caus'd
the Walls of Chalcedon to be level'd with the
Ground, to puniſh the Inhabitants for fiding with
Procopius, he order'd the Materials to be fent to
Conftantinople, to be us'd in that beautiful Aque-
duct call'd the Valentinian Aqueduct. 'Tis affert-
ed by Ammianus Marcellinus, that the Burghers of
Chalcedon, among other Affronts which they pre-
tended to put upon Valens, call'd him, while he
befieged
362 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
befieged their City, Beer-bibber [s]. Solyman II.
made uſe of nothing but the Ruins of Chalcedon
to repair the Valentinian Aqueduct, and to build
la Solymania. The fettling of Pofts ſeems to have
been more antient than is generally believ'd: Pro-
copius ſpeaks this of it with relation to Chalcedon.
The Emperors, fays he, fettled Poſts, with In-
tent to gain timely Information of whatever paſt
in the Empire. There were no fewer than five
Pofts a Day, and fometimes eight, with forty
Horfes to each Poft, and as many Poftilions and
Grooms as were neceffary. Juftinian aboliſh'd
theſe Eſtabliſhments in many Places, efpecially
thoſe between Chalcedon and Digcibiza, which is
the antient Town of Lybilla, fam'd for Hannibal's
being bury'd there, and fituated in the Gulf of
Nicomedia. The fame Author, the more to ex-
pofe Juftinian, advances, that he fet up an Afs-poft
in divers Parts of the Levant.
Chalcedon at this time is a poor beggarly Place,
confifting of between feven and eight hundred
Houſes it goes by the Name of Cadiaci, or the
Judges Town; but the Greeks continue to call it by
the old Name. Here a general Council was held,
Anno 451, in St. Euphemia's Church, where the
Fathers condemn'd Eutyches, who deny'd there
were two Natures in Jefus Chrift. There is no
likelihood that that Church is what the Greeks now
make ufe for their Parochial Church, fince we are
told by Evagrius that it was in the Suburbs; and
M. de Nointel, Ambaffador of France to the Porte,
avers, that the Remains of St. Euphemia's Church
were a Mile from the Town, where he met with
an Infcription mentioning the faid Council. The
Coaft of Chalcedon abounds with Fifh. Strabo and
Pliny must have been impos'd upon by thofe who
made them believe, that the Pelamides, or young
[] Sabaia, Beer.
Tunnies,
Defcript, of the Canal of the Black Sea. 363
Tunnies, turn'd afide, and ſheer'd off towards By-
zantium for fear of the white Rocks conceal'd un-
der Water. On the contrary, the Tunny-fiſh of
Chalcedon were fo much in vogue with the An-
cients, that Varro, cited by Aulus Gellius, ranks
them among the Delicacies of the Table; and at
this Day you fee nothing but Tunny-fifh Nets
round the Town.
From Chalcedon you go to Cape Scutari, call'd
antiently the Ox, or the Ox Paffage: from whence
'tis plain, that Place muſt be confidered as the
beginning of the Bofphorus. Polybius fpeaking of
the Route from Chalcedon to Byzantium, obferves
very juftly, that there's no croffing the Sea direct-
ly, becauſe of the ftrong Current between theſe
two Cities. So again, when the fame Author de-
ſcribes the Current of the Bofphorus, he fays it
comes from Cape des Efties, where Courouchifme
now ftands, and fo proceeds to a Place call'd an
Ox or Cow; for the Poets likewife gave out, that
Io, Jupiter's Miftrefs, pafs'd over that Strait in
ſhape of a Cow. The Fleet of Philip of Mace-
don, who was befieging Byzantium, was beaten by
the Athenian General Chares near this Cape.
That General's Wife Damalis was bury'd there:
ſhe dy'd during the Siege; and the Byzantins, in
acknowledgment of the Services done 'em by
her Huſband, erected likewiſe an Altar in honour
of her, and her Statue ftanding on a Pillar.
The Place ftill retains the Name of Damalis,
which fignifies a Cow. Codinus, the Reporter of
this Story, took it out of Dionyfius Byzantinus,
who has an old Infcription mentioning the Fact.
The Seraglio of Scutari now takes up the fame
Spot, call'd the Cow-cape: I think it was Solyman
II. built it. The Fountain of Hermagora, fpoken
of by the fame Author, must be within its
Compafs.
Care
364 AVOYAGE into the Levant.
Care must be taken not to confound this Cape
with the Beef-market-place of Conftantinople, often
call'd by Hiftorians fimply the Ox, and which was
in the eleventh Precinct of the City. This Market-
place took its Name from a brazen Stove fhap'd
like an Ox, according to Zonaras, and brought
from among the Ruins of Troy. In this Place it
was that Phocas, by order of Heraclius, was burnt,
after being beheaded, and depriv'd of thoſe
Parts, which had been inftrumental in deflowering
the Ladies of the firft Quality in Conftantinople.
Zonaras likewife takes notice, that at the time of
the Grand Revolution, when the Comnenii affum'd
the Throne, and fhut up Nicephorus Botaniates in
a Cloifter, their Party, who fpar'd not even the
moſt facred Things, carried on their Diſorders as
far as the Place call'd the Ox; which Place, by
the way, has been the Theatre of many illuftrious
Martyrdoms. Codinus tells us, that Julian the
Apoftate caus'd feveral Chriftians to be burnt in
the faid Stove or Furnace, the top whereof was
form'd like a Bull's Head, and ſtood in the Place
call'd the Ox. The holy Martyr Antipas, Cedre-
nus fays, was confum'd to Afhes there. They
alfo us❜d to burn Criminals in the fame Place.
The Tower of Leander is juſt by the Cape of
Scutari. The Emperor Manuel built it on a Rock
two hundred Paces from the Tower, and likewife
another on Europe's fide, at the Convent of St.
George, for a Chain to be laid crofs from one to
the other, and fo barricade the Canal. "Tis ob-
ferv'd by M. Gilles, that formerly there was a
Wall built in the Sea, which occupy'd the Paf-
fage now between the Rock whereon is the Tower,
and the firm Land of Afia: 'Tis likely this was
the Work of the fame Emperor for by this
means the Chain going from one Tower to the
other, made it impoffible for Ships to paſs thro
the
Defcript.of the Canal of the Black Sea. 365
the Canal of the Black Sea. M. Gilles adds, that
this Wall was demoliſh'd by the Turks, on purpoſe
to employ the Stones elfewhere. They call this
Tower the Virgin's Tower, but the Franks the
Tower of Leander; tho' the Loves of Hero and
Leander were carried on afar off, on the Shore of
the Canal of the Dardanelles. This Tower is
fquare, and has in it fome Pieces of Artillery: it
is almoſt defenceless, and inftead of a Garifon, has
only a Keeper, who picks up a few Pence among
the Janizaries and Merchants of Conftantinople, that
go thither to folace themſelves.
Tho' it is not a Cuſtom with the Turks to rebuild
ruin'd Towns, yet has that general Rule fuffer'd
an exception in the cafe of Scutari, burnt by the
Perfians. True it is, the Turks look on it as a Sub-
urb to Constantinople, or as the firft Baiting-place
in Afia: 'tis alſo a principal Rendezvous of Mer-
chants and Caravans from Armenia and Perfia,
coming to trade in Europe. Formerly the Port
of Scutari ferv'd as a Retreat to the Gallies of Chal-
cedon; and it was on account of its Situation, that
the Perfians aiming at the Conqueft of Greece,
made choice of it, not only for a Place of Arms,
but as a Treaſury or Bank, for keeping the Gold
and Silver they levy'd by way of Tribute from the
Towns of Afia. Hence it got the Name of Chry-
fopolis, or Gold Town, as is reported by Stephens the
Geographer; who however adds, the moſt com-
mon Opinion was, that the Name of Chryfopolis
comes from Chryfes the Son of Chryfeis by Aga-
memnon. Constantine Manaffes fo well defcribes the
Situation of Chryfopolis, that there is no room to
doubt its being the fame as Scutari, tho' he at the
fame time fays, that ſuch as have taken it for Urano-
polis, are not very wide of the Truth. This was
perhaps its Name e'er the Perfians mafter'd it: the
latter Name, which fignifies the Heavenly City,
was
366 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
was no leſs honourable than that of the Golden City.
Be it as it will, it was deftin'd to be a Harbouring
place for Excifemen; for the Athenians erected
therein, the firſt of any Nation, a Cuftom-houſe,
for the gathering the Impofts laid on fuch as ufed
the Black Sea. Xenophon avers they wall'd in the
Town; and yet in Auguftus's time it made no Fi-
gure, fince Strabo calls it but a Village. At pre-
fent it is a large and beautiful Town, and the only
one upon the Bofphorus on the Afiatick Side. Cedre-
nus informs us, that in the 19th Year of Constan-
tine the Great, Licinius, his Brother-in-law, after
being feveral times beaten by Sea and Land, was
taken Priſoner in Chryfopolis, and thence carried to
Theffalonica, where his Head was chopt off.
The firſt Town of the Bofphorus beyond Scutari,
is Coffourgé, then Stavros, fo call'd from a gilt Crofs
on the top of a Church built by Constantine. Next
to Stavros you difcover the Village of Telengelcui,
which may have been the Place formerly known
by the Name of Chryfoceramus, or the Gilded Brick,
on account of a Church cover'd with Bricks of a
golden Colour; for according to M. Gilles, who
follows Dionyfius Byzantinus ftep by step, and has
fet him right in fome Places, Chryfoceramus is fi-
tuated after Stavros, going up to the old Caftles
of Afia. Leunclavius makes mention of Chryfoce-
ramus, and places between it and Stavros the Mo-
naftery of Akimiti, or the Night-watching Monks.
Before we arrive at the old Caftle of Anatolia,
we meet with two other Villages, and crofs two
Brooks. The firſt Village is call'd Coulé or Coulé-
bacheft, and the other Candil-bachefi. Coulé-backefi
is on the Point which the Ancients call'd Cape
Cecrium, and now Cecri, oppofite to Cape Esties,
below which is built Courouchifmé. Candil-bachefi
is at the Mouth of the firſt brook, which empties
itſelf into the Gulph of Napli; and perhaps Napli
comes
Defcript. of the Canal of the Black Sea. 367
comes from Nicopolis, defcrib'd by Pliny to be
hereabouts. M. Gilles calls this Brook the Brook
of Napli, but the Turks have given it the Name
of Ghiock-fou, or Green Water, as well as to that
other near the Caftle; fo that one may almoſt
venture to ſay that Candil-bachef is the antient
Nicopolis of the Bosphorus. Stephanus Byzantinus
fays no more than that it is a Town of Bithynia:
it were to be wifh'd we could diſcover what Vi-
ctory occafion'd its being fo call'd. The fecond
Brook is alfo call'd Green Water, and is the largeſt
Stream of Water that runs into the Bosphorus on
the Afiatick fide. In times paft it went by the
Name of Arete, and fome among the Greeks ftill
call it Enarete: but it is proper to obſerve, that all
the Places hereabouts are taken up with the Grand
Signior's Gardens, which not only extend from
the firſt Green Waters to thefe, but to Sultan Soly-
man Kiofc; and from thence they ftretch till they
come to the Entrance of the Black Sea. All the
reft of the Country is fet apart for the Emperor's
Diverſion of Hunting, and there are few Places
in the World fo fit for it.
It is certain, as Leunclavius obferves, that in
the time of the Greek Emperors there were two
Caſtles on the Bofphorus; one on Afia fide, the
other on that of Europe; whereby the Paffage of
the Canal in its narroweft part was barr'd. In
the Declenfion of the Empire they were let run to
ruin, and even before that time they were look'd
on rather as Priſons than Citadels. And indeed
Gregoras affirms they were call'd the Caftles of
Lethe, or the Prifons of Forgetfulness, becauſe fuch
as were fo unfortunate to be fent thither, were never
thought of more. The Turks repair'd thefe Ca-
ftles at different times, even before they were
Maſters of Constantinople. At prefent we fhall
only ſpeak of that on the Coaft of Afia.
The
368
A VOYAGE J
into the Levant.
The old Caſtle of Afia being fituated on the
narrowest part of the Canal, makes it indifputa-
ble that it was there, where Darius, Father of
Xerxes, caus'd a Bridge to be made in his Expe-
dition againſt the Scythians or Tartars. The Ex-
ecution of this Work was committed to Mandro-
cles, a fkilful Engineer of Samos. Dionyfius By-
zantinus avers, that the Engineer had cut a Seat in
the Rock for Darius to fit and fee the Troops
march over the Bridge: 'tis not faid whether this
Seat was in Europe or Afia; nor is there any Poffi-
bility to aſcertain it, even fuppofing it were ſtill
in being, becauſe the Turks admit no body to
come near their Caftles. They neither know, nor
care to know, whether there were ever fuch Men
in the World as Darius or Xerxes: perhaps they
lay their Tails in the very Place which ferv'd as a
Throne to the then Mafter of the World.
After that Prince had feen his Troops march,
he ordered two large fquare Stones to be ſet up;
on one were grav'd in Afyrian Characters the
Names of the Nations that were in his Pay; the
like was done on the other in Greek Characters.
The Land Army confifted of 700,000 Men, and
the Fleet of 1600 Ships; but this Army tarried
in the Propontis, with Orders to go to the Bofpho-
rus, in order to repair to the Mouth of the Da-
nube, where another Bridge was built. Mandrocles,
or Androcles, as fome call him, was fo well fatisfy'd
with the Liberality of Darius, that he caus'd a
Picture to be drawn, reprefenting the Paffage of
the Perfians over the Bridge at the Bofphorus, in the
Preſence of their Prince, who, Herodotus fays, was
feated on a Throne after the manner of the Per-
fians. This Piece was plac'd in a Temple of Juno,
with an Infcription of four Verſes in Greek, which
Herodotus has recorded. The old Caftle of Europe
being over-againſt that now under Confideration,
Darius's
Defcript. of the Canal of the Black Sea. 369
Darius's Army muſt have paſt between the two
Caſtles, or a little higher up, to avoid the Vio-
lence of the Current.
The place of the old Town Ciconium, mention'd
by Dionyfius Byzantinus, is beyond the Caftle of
Afia; and the Place is ftill call'd Cormion, juſt by
the Gulph of Manoli, where there is excellent Fiſh.
The Coaft leads to the Village of Inghircui, that
is, the Fig-village. You crofs a Rivulet at Inghircui
to enter into the Gulph of Cartacion or Catangium,
according to the faid Dionyfius. This Gulph, on
the North, is terminated by Cape Stridia, or the
Oyster Cape, for it affords admirable ones; and the
Greeks call 'em Oftridia. M. Gilles calls this Cape
the Turks Cape, becauſe it is over againſt the Kiofc
of Sultan Solyman, and parted only by a handfom
Rivulet. This Kiofc has nothing extraordinary.
Thefe Kiofcs are a fort of Pavilions with large flat
Roofing, after the manner of the Levant, where
they prefer Coolness to Magnificence. The Pa-
vilions of the Orientals are open on all fides, and
in the middle there are Jets-d'eau's. That of the
Sultan is at the Entrance of a beautiful Gulph,
which forms the Elbow of the Canal, where the
Bofphorus runs indented, tho' in the Maps it is fet
down to be almoſt in a ſtraight Line. This is the
Round Gulph mention'd by Dionyfius Byzantinus, or
the Gulph of the Sultan, fpoken of by M. Gilles,
who remark'd on the South of it the Foundation
of the famous Monaftery of thofe Monks that
ſpend the whole Night in Prayer; whereas Loun-
clavius places it between Stavros and Telengelcui.
We muſt not forget, that the Cape which turns the
Gulph Castacium to the South, makes two confide-
rable Points: the one fhuts in the Gulph on the
fide of the Greater Glari; the other, which is to-
wards the Little Glari, forms the Gulph of Placa,
fhap'd fomewhat like a Table. The two Glari's
Vol. II,
Bb
are
370 AVOYAGE into the Levant.
are perhaps the Rocks which Dionyfius Byzantinus
call'd Oxyrrhoon and Poryrhoon, for the Waves
make a confiderable Noife about thoſe Points.
Going up from the Pavilion of Sultan Solyman
towards the new Caftles, we meet Beicos or Be-
couff, the Walnut-tree Village, on which account
Leunclavius calls it Megalo-carya. The fine Stream
that flows into it, and its advantageous Port, give
ſome ground to fufpect that this is the Place where
Amycus, King of the Bythinians, kept his Court.
There is no other part of this Coaſt that can be
fuppos'd to have ferv'd for the Abode of ſo for-
midable a Prince, whom Valerius Flaccus calls the
Gyant; and Apollonius of Rhodes, the moft daring
Man of his Age. He was not only a great Wreſtler,
but very ſkilful too at Boxing, and at that kind
of Exerciſe which was call'd Pugilation, in which
lay great part of the Merit of the firft Heroes.
Before the Invention of Iron and Arms, fays Do-
natus, Men exercis'd their Valour in fighting with
Hand, and Foot, and Tooth. If fuch Sports
were to come in Faſhion again, how many Por-
ters would now be reckon'd Heroes? Amycus was
a brave ſtrapping Fellow, like thofe great Men, fays
the Poet, that the Earth brought forth in Anger, to
oppoſe the Power of Jupiter; yet this dreadful
Champion met with his Match. According to
his uſual Cuſtom, he made an open challenge to
the boldeſt Argonauts that appear❜d on the Coaſts.
of his Kingdom. Pollux, the Brother of Caftor,
and Son of Jupiter and Leda; Pollux, I fay, the
greateſt Wreſtler among the Greeks, vigorous as a
young Lion, overthrew this Coloffus, tho' his
Chin was ſcarcely yet cover'd over with the Down
of Youth. They firft gave each other ftrenuous
Pufhes, like Rams that ſtrive to overturn each o-
ther to the Ground: after the firſt Heaves they
took their Ceftus's in their Hands, and nothing
was
Defcript. of the Canal of the Black Sea. 371
was to be heard but Blows like thofe of the Ham-
mers that are made use of to break the Planks of a
Ship, according to Apollonius's Compariſon: And
in this manner the Cheeks and Jaws of the Ath-
letes us'd to found in thofe Days. Each Man
drubb'd his Companion without Mercy: their
Teeth were looſen'd, and at laft beat down their
Throats in pieces. Tho' the Ceftus was often no
more than a Thong of Leather very dry and
very hard, yet it would give plaguy Thumps
when artfully apply'd. Our Heroes, weary of
this gentle Prelude, after having wip'd their Fa-
ces, fell to lufty Fifticuffs: it is very probable
they took one another by the Collar, for the Son
of Jupiter gave him of Neptune fuch a Squelch on
the Ground, that the Bones of his Ears, tho' the
hardeſt in all the Head, were broken with the
Fall. Thus dy'd Amycus, who had overcome fo
many Strangers, and ſo many of his own Subjects.
Apollodorus and Valerius Flaccus, who deſcribe his
Death in another manner, agree however that he
dy'd by the Hands of Pollux.
Amycus was accus'd of laying traps for Stran-
gers, and deftroying them by Treachery; but
the Argonauts forewarn'd of his Tricks, were too
fharp for him: they not only accompanied Pol-
lux to the Foreft, which ferv'd for the Field of
Battle, but ftaid near him while the Fight lafted.
It was a ſhame for Coulin-germans, and Sons of
Gods and Goddeffes, to ufe one another fo un-
genteelly. Pollux was the Son of Jupiter and
Leda, and Amycus the Son of Neptune and the
Nymph Melia, the Daughter of the Ocean, a Ha-
madryad that prefided among the Afh-trees. As
for the Ceftus, it was not always a bare fingle Lea-
thern Thong; there were fometimes feveral of
them faften'd to a Club, and fome good heavy
Knobs of Lead at the end of them,
Bb 2
Beicos
372 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
Beicos then, to return to our Subject, was in all
probability the Capital of the Dominions of Amy-
cus, and the fame that was call'd the Port of Amy-
cus, and which Arrian nam'd Laurus infana, or the
Laurel that turn'd Folks Brains. That Tree, which
gave its Name to the Place, and which depriv'd
the Seamen of their Wits, was perhaps one of
thoſe kinds of the Chamerhododendros, that grow
on the Coaſts of the Black Sea, and which I fhall
ſpeak of hereafter. That part of Beicos, which
lies wholly along the Coaſt, is ſtill call'd Amya,
as if it were a Corruption of Amycus: it may per-
haps be the Place where that Prince was buried,
for there is mention made of his Tomb in ancient
Authors. Be that as it will, all this Coaft is fo
fruitful, that every Village bears the Name of
fome Fruit. The Village which lies above Beicos,
before you come to the first Elbow of the Canal,
is call'd Toca, that is, the Village of Cherries, ſi-
tuated between the Bays of Monocolos and Mouca-
pouris, parted from each other by a fmall Stream,
and by the Turkish Cape, formerly call'd Aetorbecum.
A little on this fide the new Caftle of Anatolia
are the Ruins of an antient Caftle, on one of the
Eminences, which, on the fide of Afia, form the
firft Elbow of the Entrance of the Bofphorus: this
ruinated Caftle fubfifted in the time of Dionyfius
Byzantinus. Above the Temple of Phryxus, fays
that Author, ftands a good ftrong Fort, in a cir-
culary Incloſure, which the Gauls deſtroyed, as
they did many other Places in Afia. The Greek
Emperors maintain'd this Port in repair, till the
Decadence of their Empire. It is likely 'twas
built by the Byzantines after the Retreat of the
Gauls; for Polybius informs us, that the People
of Byzantium laid out a great deal of Money to
fortify that part of the Country, before they went
to war with the Rhodians and King Prufias. This
Fortress
Defcript. of the Canal of the Black Sea. 373
Fortreſs was abfolutely neceffary to their Deſign of
making themſelves Mafters of the Navigation of
Pontus, and of levying Impofts upon all Mer-
chandizes there. The Cape was named Argyro-
nium, either by reafon of the great Expence of
fortifying it, or becauſe it was purchas'd with a
round Sum of the King of Bythinia; for it was fpe-
cify'd in the Articles of Peace, that Prufias fhould
reſtore to the Byzantines the Lands, Forts, Slaves,
the Materials, and Tiles of the Temple that he had
demolith'd during the War; in confequence where-
of the Freedom of Navigation in the Pontus Eu-
xinus is intirely reftor'd, to the great Glory of the
Rhodians. As to the new Caftles beyond thoſe
Ruins, both in Afia and Europe, they were built not
long ago by Mahomet IV. to ſtop the Incurfions of
the Coffacks, Polanders, and Muscovites, who came
very far into the Bofphorus.
All the Coaſt is ftrew'd with old Materials; for
the Ancients had fo terrible an Idea of the Black
Sea, that they durft not venture upon it, till they
had rear'd Altars and Temples to the Gods and
Goddeffes of their Acquaintance. All the Strait
of the Opening was call'd [t] Hiera, which figni-
fies Sacred Places. Befides the Temple built on the
Afian Coaſt by Phryxus the Son of Ahamantus and
Nephale, who carried the Golden Fleece into Col-
chis, the Argonauts, who undertook the fame Voy-
age to fetch back that Treaſure into Greece, did
not fail to implore the Affiftance of the Gods, be-
fore they truffed themſelves on fo dangerous a Sea.
Apollonius Rhodius, and his Commentator, who
have very well explain'd the Courſe of thofe fa-
mous Travellers, let us know, that being detain'd
by contrary Winds at the Entrance into the Pon-
tus, they crofs'd over from the Court of King
Phineus, which was in Europe, to the Coaft of Afia,
[r] Tsgá
Bb 3
to
374 AVOYAGE into the Levant.
to raiſe Altars and Temples to the twelve moſt
famous Deities of thofe Times. According to
Timofthenes quoted in the Commentary of Apollo-
nius, they were the Companions of Phryxus, that
built the Altars of the twelve Gods; and the Ar-
gonauts only rais'd one to Neptune. Ariftides and
Pliny make mention of the Temple of that God.
Herodotus, according to the fame Commentary,
pretended, that the Argonauts facrificed upon Phry-
xus's Altar. Polybius fancied that Jafon, in his re-
turn from Colchis, had built one Temple confecrat-
ed to the twelve Deities on the Coaſt of Afia, op-
pofite to the Temple of Serapis, which was on the
European fide. Tho' thefe Difquifitions are not
very uſeful now-a-days, yet nothing can be more.
agreeable, when a Man is upon the Spot, than to
recollect them in his Mind. Upon a cafe of ne-
ceffity one might eafily name the Deities fo ho-
nour'd. According to the Commentator of Apollo-
nius Rhodius, they were, Jupiter, Juno, Neptune,
Ceres, Mercury, Vulcan, Apollo, Diana, Vefta, Mars,
Venus, and Minerva. Jupiter being the moſt po-
tent of the whole Gang, Jafon made his Court
particularly to him, and endeavour'd to get his Fa-
vour above all the reft: Hence it is, that Arrian,
Menippus, Dionyfius Byzantinus, and Mela, make
mention of none but the Temple of Jupiter the Di-
Atributer of good Winds, notwithſtanding thofe of
the other Deities were not far off, fince there were
as many Temples as Altars. 'Twas probable it
was in this Temple of Jupiter, that there was
placed a Statue of that God, fo perfect, that
Cicero fays, there were but three fuch in the World.
It was from the Gate of this Temple, that Darius
had the pleaſure to furvey the Pontus Euxinus, or,
in Herodotus's Words, the Sea moſt worthy of Ad-
niration. We are not to imagine, as fome have
done, that this Temple was in one of the Cyanean
Ifles,
Defcript. of the Canal of the Black Sea. 375
Ifles, for the biggeft of them all can but juft fup-
port the Column of Pompey. Herodotus only fays,
that from the Bridge, which Darius had caus'd to
be rais❜d over the Bofphorus in the Place which we
mentioned above, that King went towards the Cy-
anean Ines, to contemplate the Sea, which afford-
ed a wonderful Profpect from the Avenue of the
Temple. That Temple muft therefore have been
at the Village of Foro, a Corruption from Hieron,
and Foro is cloſe to the new Caftle of Afia.
Going along the Coaft beyond that Caftle
towards the Mouth of the Black Sea, you pafs
by that Place which Dionyfius Byzantinus calls
Pantichium, and others Mancipium. Afterwards
you diſcover Cape Coraca, or the Cape of the
Crows, which forms the beginning of the
Strait it is perhaps the Cape of Bithynia men-
tion'd by Ptolomy, near which was a Temple of
Diana. Beyond this Cape you find nothing on the
Afian Coaft, that is fet down in the Authors, ex-
cept the Gulph of Vines; but yet after this you come
to the famous Cape of the Anchor, fo call'd, be-
cauſe the Argonauts, according to Dionyfius Byzan-
tinus, were here obliged to provide themſelves
with an Anchor of Stone. 'Tis likely Minerva
had forgotten fo neceffary a piece of Furniture;
fhe who took care of all the Rigging of the Argos,
which was the biggeſt and tighteft Ship that had
been known on the Sea before that time. That
Veffel was fit either for Sailing, or Rowing like a
Gally, and every Man in her was a Hero. The
Afian Light-houſe is upon this Cape, near which
alfo are thofe [u] Rocks accounted fo dangerous
among the Ancients, that Phineus exhorted Fafon
not to go that way, except the Weather was very
fair; otherwiſe, fays he, your Argos will be broken,
tho' it were made of Iron. Thefe Rocks are only
[u] The Afian Cyanean Stones.
Bb 4
the
376
AVOYAGE into the Levant.
the Points of an Ile or Rock feparated from the
main Land by a narrow Strait, which is quite dry,
when the Sea is calm, and is fill'd with Water
when there is the leaft Storm: At fuch a time you
can fee nothing but the higheft Point of the Rock,
the others lying hid under Water. This is what
makes the Place fo dangerous, eſpecially to thofe
who are fo rafh as to pafs thro' the Strait, as it
feems Phineus advis'd the Argonauts to do. In thoſe
firft Ages, when Navigation was fcarce in its In-
fancy, the Seamen never durft ftir out of fight of
the Coaft. As for us, who, I can take my Oath
on't, were in no Argos, but in a Felucca with four
Oars, we affected to keep as far off on't as we
could. The Argonauts run the hazard; for the
Hiftorians, or rather the Poets, inform us, that
their Ship ſtuck fo faft upon thofe Rocks, that
Minerva was forced to come down from Heaven
to puſh it off with her right Hand, while fhe
ftrengthen'd herfelf with her left againſt the Points
of the Rocks. Topping Mariners, thoſe Argo-
nauts! And indeed Apollonius very judiciouſly ob-
ferves, that their Hearts were in their Mouths till
the Fright was over.
From the Afian Cyanean Iſlands you muſt croſs
over to thofe of Europe, if you would view the
other Coaft of the Bofphorus to Conftantinople in
order. Theſe Ifles then, as thofe of Afia, are pro-
perly nothing but one rough Iſland, the Points of
which look like fo many feparate Rocks, when
the Sea is much diſturb'd. Strabo obferv'd, that
towards the Mouth of the Pontus Euxinus there
was one little Ifle on each fide, whereas the antient
Geographers imagin'd that there were feveral
Rocks, as well on the fide of Europe as on that of
Afta, which not only floated on the Water, but
fwam along the Coaft, and joftled one againſt the
other, The Foundation of all this Story was no-
thing
Defcript. of the Canal of the Black Sea. 377
thing but their Points appearing or diſappearing,
according as the Sea run over them in Tempefts,
or left them uncover'd in Calms. It was never pub-
lickly declar'd that they were fix'd, till after Jaſon's
Voyage, becauſe they were then in all probability
view'd fo nearly, that it was impoffible to think
them moveable: Nevertheleſs, as moſt People are
more agreeably entertain'd with Fables than with
Truth, they had much ado to throw off their Pre-
poffeffion. You may fee the whole Rock that is
on the fide of Europe, when the Sea is
gone off:
it ftands up in five Points, which look like fo many
diftinct Rocks, while the Sea is rough. This
Rock is divided from the Cape of the European
Light-houſe only by a little Arm of the Sea,
which is empty of Water in fair Weather; and
it is on the higheſt of theſe Points that they ſhew a
Column, which they have call'd, tho' groundlefly,
the Column of Pompey. It does not appear by
any Paffage in Hiftory, that Pompey, after the
Defeat of Mithridates, rais'd any Monuments here;
and befides, the Infcription on the Foot of this
Pillar makes mention of Auguftus. When you
carefully examine the Bafis and the Shaft, you
muft confefs thofe two Pieces were never made for
each other; one would rather imagine the Pillar
had been ſet upon the Baſis, to ferve as a Guide to
fuch Veffels as pafs this way. The Column, which
is about twelve Foot high, is adorn'd with a Co-
rinthian Chapiter; but 'tis in fo fteep a place, that
there is no getting up to it without crawling on all
four, and the Bafis is generally under Water.
Dionyfius Byzantinus fays, the Romans fet up an Al-
tar to Apollo on this Rock; and this Bafis
may be
a Remnant of it, for the Feftoons are of Laurel-
leaves, which was a Tree facred to that God. Per-
haps, out of Flattery, an Infcription might af
terwards be carv'd upon it, in praife of Auguftus.
I know
378 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
I know not whether the Column be of Marble,
or of the Stone of the Country, the Sea would not
permit us to examine it cloſely enough. The Stone
of the Country has in its greyish Colour fomething
approaching to blue, and this was the Reaſon why
theſe Rocks were call'd Cyanean.
If we may judge by the courſe of the Argo-
nauts, the Court of Phineus [x], fo famous upon
account of his Misfortunes and his predictions,
was at the entrance of the Bofphorus on the fide of
Europe. We read in Apollonius Rhodius, that the
Argonauts, after having work'd thro' a violent
Tempeft, after parting from the Dominions of
King Amycus, caft Anchor at the Court of Phi-
neus to confult him. That Prince's Court was
perhaps at Mauromolo, where there is a convenient
Port, and a very agreeable Rivulet. May not
Belgrade, a little Town above Mauromolo, be the
antient Salmydeſſa, where, according to Apollodorus,
Phineus made his Refidence? It is certain indeed,
that the Ancients place that City beyond the Cy-
anean Iſles; but as there is no Port on that Coaſt,
and Apollonius faying in fo many Words, that they
landed at Phineus's Palace, which was on the Sea-
fhore; is it too bold a Conjecture, to advance, that
Belgrade, which is naturally a Place compleatly
charming, and truly worthy the Abode of a great
Prince, is built on the Ruins of Salmydeffa, of which
Mauromolo was the Haven?
The Deſcription Apollonius gives of Phineus, and
the Means which that Prince taught the Argonauts
of paffing the Cyanean Rocks, are extremely fin-
gular. Phineus having notice that this Company
of Heroes were arriv'd at his Palace, aroſe from
his Bed (for he remember'd Jupiter had decreed,
that thofe Demi-gods fhould do him Service) and
crept half afleep, leaning with one Hand upon a
[x] Phinopolis.
Stick,
Defcript. of the Canal of the Black Sea. 379
į
Stick, and fupporting himſelf with the other a-
gainſt the Walls. This good Man fhook with
Old Age and Weakneſs: his Skin, which ftuck
to his Bones, had much ado to hinder them from
parting. In this Condition he appear'd like a
Spectre at the Entrance of a Hall, where he haḍ
no fooner fat him down, but he fell aſleep, with-
out being able to utter one fingle Word. The
Argonauts, who no doubt expected another kind of
a Creature, were furpriz'd at fuch a Figure: at
length Phineus, more intent upon his own Affairs
than upon theirs, recollecting his Spirits a little;
Heroes, fays he, who are the Glory of Greece (for I
well know who you are by the Science of Divination
which I poffefs) leave me not, I conjure you, till you
have deliver'd me from the miferable Condition I am in.
Can any thing be more terrible than to die of Hunger in
the midst of Plenty? Thofe curfed Harpies fnatch the
Meat from my Mouth; and if they leave any thing in
the Diſhes, they infect it with fuch an intolerable Stink,
that no Mortal can touch it: but it is foretold by the
Oracle, that these beastly Birds ſhall be diſperſed by the
Sons of Boreas.
Zethes and Calais, who were of the Band, were
mov'd at the Fate of that wretched Prince, and
promis'd him their Affiftance. Supper was imme-
diately brought in; but the Moment Phineus of-
fer'd to touch the Meat, the Harpies iffuing from
certain Clouds, among dreadful Flaſhes of Light-
ning, fell upon the Table with a furprizing Yell,
and devour'd every thing there; after which they
fled away, leaving behind them a Stink that al-
moſt poifon'd the whole Company. The Sons of
Boreas (who were faid to have Wings) did not fail
to purſue them, and had foon caught them; but
Iris defcending from Heaven, told them they muft
not for the World touch their Lives; that they
were the Dogs of the mighty Jupiter: and the
fwore
380 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
fwore by the River Styx, they ſhould be fent fo far
off, that they ſhould never come near Phineus's
Houſe any more. This good News was carried
to the King, who, that he might be fure of the
Truth, order'd what there was in the Houfe to be
brought in; and not hearing the Noife of thofe
ugly Beafts, he laid about him luftily. By way of
Acknowledgment, the good old Man then began
to dogmatize, and gave our Heroes fuch Notices,
as he thought would help to carry them thro' their
Voyage without Danger. Apollodorus relates thefe
Fables with other Circumftances, whereof a long-
er Recapitulation would be tedious. I leave it to
Men of more Learning to explain the Story of the
Harpies: Of what confequence is it to know
whether they were Grafhoppers that infected Phi-
neus's Lands, and devour'd his Harveſts, as M.
Bochart and the Author of the Bibliotheque Uni-
verfelle have imagin'd? whether the Sons of Boreas.
are to be interpreted the North Wind, which
drove away thoſe Infects? whether Phineus was
ftript by his Miftreffes, who reduc'd him to the
laft Extremity? whether the Argonauts, who, in
all Antiquity, were accounted Heroes, were not
Merchants more daring than the reſt, who went
quite into Colchis to buy Sheep to ftock Greece
with them? All this feems to me very obfcure.
But I admire the Invention of honeft Phineus,
who not having ever a Compaſs, any more than
the Argonauts, advis'd them, before they ventur'd
the Paffage of the Cyanean Islands, to let fly a
Dove; If he get ſafe and found over thoſe Rocks,
quoth he, make the best of your way with Oars and
Sails, and rely more upon the Strength of your Arms
than upon the Vows you may make to the Gods; but if
the Dove comes back, turn tail, and march home again.
It was impoffible to have hit upon a cleverer
Expedient.
D
But
Defcript. of the Canal of the Black Sea. 381
But to return to Phineus's Court, or rather Mau-
romolo: It is a fine Monaftery of Caloyers, whỏ
pay no other Tribute than one Load of Cherries.
The Story goes, that a Sultan having loft his way
in hunting, near that Houfe, and fancying the
Monks did not know him, afk'd them for fome-
thing to eat. The Monks, who knew well enough
who he was, preſented him with a piece of Bread
and a Plate of Cherries, which were fo good,
that the Sultan exempted the Religious from the
Capitation, and only ordered them to bring every
a Year a Load of Cherries to the Seraglio.
There is not at preſent any remarkable Place
between Mauromolo and the new Caftle of Europe,
tho', no doubt, the Ancients did not fail to give
diftinguiſhing Names to all this Coaſt, as ſteep
and rugged as it is: but you cannot move a Step
in any Country where the Greeks have had to do,
but you diſcover ſome of their Names ſtill in being.
Here ev'ry defert Waste, and barren Field,
Of beauteous Names will fruitful Harveſts yield.
What can be a greater Satisfaction to thofe that
we call Men of Erudition, than to know that the
firſt Nook on the right Hand, as you enter the
Strait, was formerly call'd Dios Sacra, as much as
to ſay, the Sacrifices of Jupiter? That the next
Port was the Port of the Lycians in the firſt Ages,
and that of the Myrleans afterwards? The Lycians
were a People of Afia, that traded in the Pontus,
and commonly caft Anchor in this Port. As for
the Myrleans, Dionyfius Byzantinus informs us, that
fome feditious Folks of Myrlea retir'd to this Part
of the Bosphorus; and Myrlea was that Town of
Bithynia, which Nicomedes Epiphanes nam'd Apa-
mea, from the Name of his Mcther Apama. After
the Port of the Lycians, come other little Ports,
which
382 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
which formerly took their Names from fome Altar
of Venus; for Aphofiati feems to be a remnant of
Aphrodyfium, which Dionyfius Byzantinus places
thereabouts and as one of thefe Ports was fre-
quented by the Merchants of Ephefus, it is very
probable this is the Port of the Ephefians, mention'd
by the fame Author. But the moſt remarkable
thing here is a Gut of Water, whoſe Sand look'd
like Gold, during the time that the Copper Mines,
which are on this Coaft, were wrought. This Water
runs cloſe to the Chapel of our Lady of the Chef-
nut-trees, at the Foot of a Mountain fo much high-
er than the reſt thereabouts, that from the Top of
it you may fee Constantinople, the Black Sea, and
the Propontis. The Light that was formerly kept
in a Pharos, built upon the Point of it, was as fer-
viceable to the Pilots as thofe of the European and
Afian Cyanean Inlands; but they have let the Tower
run to ruin. They were very much in the right in
fetting up Light-houfes on the fide of Europe, for
the antient Thracians were mercilefs Folks. We
read in Xenophon, that thoſe who dwelt along the
Sea-coaft, had mark'd out the Extent of their Lands
very critically : for before this Precaution, they us'd
every Day to be at Daggers-drawing about the
Wrecks that were thrown upon them, and which
every Man pretended to lay Hands on.
The an-
tient Thracians liv'd in thofe dreadful Caverns that
are on the Strait to the left, as you go from the Eu-
ropean Caftle towards Pompey's Column. Perhaps
in theſe Rocks it might be, that the Myrleans had
fettled their Abode. As you pafs by them, you
hear fuch ſtrong Echoes, that they are fometimes
as loud as the Report of a Cannon, efpecially to-
wards Mauromolo.
As to the new Caſtle of Europe, it was built by
order of Mahomet IV. oppofite to that of Afia.
Beyond this Caftle are to be feen the Ruins of an
antient
Defcript. of the Canal of the Black Sea. 383
antient Citadel, built by the Greek Emperors, or
perhaps the Byzantines, to guard that important
Paffage, where they made Exactions upon all the
Veffels that went by. Polybius fays, there was
in this Place a Temple dedicated to Serapis, over
againſt that of Jupiter, which was on the Afian
Shore. The firſt of thofe Temples is call'd by
*Strabo, the Temple of the Byzantines, to diftinguifh
it from that of Jupiter, which he calls the Temple
of the Chalcedonians. Dionyfius Byzantinus gives the
Name of Amilton to the Cape, which is at the end
of the Strait before you enter the Gulph of Sarcia:
this is the Cape Tripition of the Greeks. Saraia is a
Village over againſt the Gulf of Scletrine, whence
you cross the River Boujoudera, which waters the
fine Country which Dionyfius calls the Lovely Fields:
It is alfo call'd the River of the deep Gulf, becauſe
beyond Boujoudera the Bofphorus winds into that
great Elbow, by which it turns to the South-eaſt,
making a kind of right Angle with the Mouth
of the Black Sea. This deep Gulf was alfo call'd
Saronica, becauſe the Altar of Saron, a Hero of
Megara, or a Sea-god, ftood on the Banks of it.
According to fome others, the Gulph ends at that
famous Rock, intitled, the Rock of Justice, of which
they tell a pretty ridiculous Story, to be found in
Dionyfius Byzantinus.
Two Merchants, fays he, failing towards the
Pontus, depofited in a Hole of that Rock a Sum
of Money, and jointly agreed, that neither of them
fhould meddle with it in abſence of the other;
but one of them came foon afterwards by himſelf,
with defign to ſteal this fame Money. The Rock
would not by any Means betray its Truft, and
fo gain'd the Name of Equitable. At a diſtance
this Rock appears like a Pine Apple, with the top
rifing up, and hollow. This Hole was perhaps
what gave occafion to the Fable of the pretended
Treaſure
384 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
Treaſure hidden by the Merchants. Sailors are
the fitteſt People in the World to invent fuch
Tales, eſpecially in a Calm, when they have no-
thing else to do.
The Town of Tarabia or Tharapia is beneath
this Rock, upon a little River, at the Mouth of
which ftands the Shelf Catargo, which afar off
looks like a little Galley. The Mouth of this
River forms a tolerable good Port call'd Pharma-
cias, becauſe it was deliver'd down by Tradition,
that Medea cafting Anchor there, had brought
with her out of the Ship her Box of Drugs, by
means whereof fhe perform'd fo many Miracles.
Oppofite to Tarabia, on the other fide of the
River, is the Valley call'd Lino, in which is the
Gulf Eudios Calos, fpoken of by Dionyfius Byzanti-
nus; but lower, as you go down towards Yenicui,
is the Port of King Pithecus, mention'd by the
fame Author. The Coaſt is ſo ſteep from this
Place to the Elbow that turns towards the old Eu-
ropean Caftle, that the Ancients fancy'd thefe
Rocks were Bacchantes, upon account of the Noife
made by the beating of the Waves againſt them.
The Elbow before you come to Yenicui, was for-
merly cover'd with a Grove of Arbute, or Straw-
berry-trees, and was call'd Commarodes from Com-
maros, which fignifies an Arbute-tree:
As for Yenicui, it is a Village fituated on the
Elbow that the Canal makes to run to Conftanti-
nople. Yenicui is a Turkish Word, and confequently
has no relation to any antient Name, any more
than Neocorion, which is the Name of the fame
Place, and means, in modern Greek, New Village.
Beyond Tenicui ftands Iftegna, upon the fartheft
part of a little Port: this may be the Leoftenion
of Dionyfius and Stephens of Byzantium; fince the
Port of the Women, which we are going to fpeak
of, muſt be between the old European Caftle and
the
Defcript. of the Canal of the Black Sea. 385
the Leoftenion. Now it is certain, the Port of the
Women of Dionyfius Byzantinus is at the Entrance of
the River Ornoufdera, or of the Stream of the Hogs,"
which runs exactly between the Caſtle and Iſtegna.
The Mouth of this River forms the fineſt Haven
in all the Bofphorus, and that Haven has had va-
rious Names. The Greeks call it Saranta Copa'
becauſe of its wooden Bridge, which is fuftain'd by
forty Beams that ſerve inftead of Piles, Dionyfius By-
zantinus calls it the Gulf of Lafthenes, whence it
ſhould ſeem, that in Pliny we ought to read Laft-
benes, not Caftanes; nay, perhaps Leofthenes, in
Dionyfius, to make him agree with Stephanus By-
zantinus. Be that as it will, the fame Port is Dio-
nyfius's Port of the Women, and Pliny's Port of
the Old Men: for as to that which this Author
calls by the fame Name, that is in all likelihood
the Port of Itegna, fince he makes mention of it
juft after the Port of the old Men. The Port of
Sarantacopa was alfo nam'd the Port of Phidalia,
the Wife of Byzas; fhe who, according to Stepha-
nus Byzantinus, having put herſelf at the Head of
a little Army of Women, overthrew in this Place
Strelius, who endeavour'd to dethrone her Brother
Byzas.
Balthalimano, or the Port of the Ax, with a Vil-
lage of the fame Name, are fituated between Or-
noufdera and the old Caftle; but 'tis fo inconfide-
rable a Haven, that there is no mention of it in an-
tient Authors. All the Coaft quite to the Caftle
is in many places directly perpendicular, and the
Waves make fuch a frightful Noife against it, that
the Greeks ſtill call it Phonea, as who ſhould ſay,
Phonema, a Voice repeated. The Voice tofs'd about
by continual Whirlwinds, to uſe the Expreſſion of
Stephanus Byzantinus, falls at last with the Water
into a Caldron ftanding upon the Fire. The Sailors
when they go up the Canal, are obliged here to
Vol. II.
Cċ
make
386 AVOYAGE into the Levant:
make uſe of ſtrong Poles to keep themſelves off
the Rocks, and without them they muſt unavoid-
ably run upon them, their Oars not being fuffi-
cient to prevent their being driven by the South
Wind. It is therefore probable that Darius's
Bridge was built lower down towards the old Eu-
ropean Caſtle.
The old Caſtle is fituated on the narroweft part
of the Canal, upon a Cape oppofite to that where
the Afian Caftle is built. 'Twas upon thefe Capes
that the Greek Emperors formerly rais'd Forts, as
we faid above: but the Turks have fortify'd theſe
Places much more ſtrongly, which in themſelves
are very advantageoufly fituated. Amurat or
Mourat II. having declared War against Uladislaus
King of Poland, was refolved to fecure the Paffage
of the Bosphorus; and as the Greek Caftles were
falling to decay, he demoliſh'd the Monaſtery of
Softhenion, dedicated to St. Michael, and founded
by Conftantine the Great. The Materials were
employ'd in building this Caftle; and they were
excellent, for Juftinian and Bafil the Macedonian
had thoroughly well repair'd that Convent. [s]
Nevertheleſs Mahomet II. did not think Mourat's
Fortifications prudently laid out; and to block up
Conftantinople on all fides, he put them in the con-
dition they are at prefent. This Caſtle, as Chal-
condylus fays, has three great Towers, two on the
fide of the Canal, and the third on the brow of
the Hill. Theſe Towers are cover'd with Lead,
and are thirty Foot thick; the Walls of their
Circuit, which is a triangular, are about two and
twenty Foot thick, but they are not terrafs'd.
The Port-holes for the Cannon are horrible, as they
are in the reſt of the Caſtles of the Bosphorus and
the Dardanelles. The Canons are without Carri-
[√] 1451. or 1452.
ages,
Defcript. of the Canal of the Black Sea. 387
ages, and require a great deal of time to charge.
Mahomet II. finifh'd thefe Fortifications in three
Months; he befieged Conftantinople in the follow-
ing Spring, and nam'd this Caftle Chafcefen, that
is, Cutter off of Heads. The Greeks call it Neocaftron,
the New Castle, and Lemocopia, or the Castle of
the Strait. It has been call'd the Old Castle, fince
Mahomet IV. built thofe at the Entrance of the
Black Sea. Mahomet II. who put 400 Men in Gar-
riſon in his Caſtle of Bafcefen, gave the Command
of it to Pherus Aga, with Orders to exact Cuſtom
from all the Veffels, as well Genoefe and Venetian,
as thofe of Conftantinople, Caffa, Sinope, and Trebi-
fond, &c. that ſhould paſs by. The Governor in-
terpreted his Maſter's Orders in a cruel Senfe; for
Erizzo a Venetian Captain neglecting to ftrike fail,
had the misfortune to fee his Ship funk by a Stone
Bullet of a prodigious fize; and all he could do in
this Diſorder, was, to make the beft of his way to
Shore, with about thirty of his Men: but he was
impal'd by the Governor's direction, and the reſt
beheaded, and their Bodies left unburied upon the
Shore.
The Caſtle of Mahomet II. is built upon Poly-
bius's Cape of Mercury; and that Temple, dedica-
ted to the God of Theives and Merchants, was,
according to that Author, built on the narroweſt
part of the Bosphorus, almoſt in the middle between
Byzantium and the Temple of Jupiter the Diftribu-
ter of Winds: Dionyfius Byzantinus calls this Cape
the Red Dog. Here ended the other Foot of the
Bridge, over which Darius march'd his Army,
when he went againſt the Scythians: The firſt Foot
of that great Work was in Afia, at the narroweſt
part of the Bosphorus, oppofite to the other Cattle.
As to the Chair that was hollow'd for that Prince
to fit in, to fee his Army march, it was in all like-
lihood on the fide of Europe; and Dionyfius By-
C 2
zantinus
388 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
zantinus agrees that it was the fineſt Monument re-
maining of that antient piece of Hiftory: but this
Monument is now loft. The Mahometans intirely fub-
verted the two Coafts of the Canal, for the build-
ing not only of the old Caftles, but alſo of that
beautiful Village that lies round the European one,
and which properly receiv'd the Name of Lemo-
copia, when Mahomet II. order'd People gather'd
from all Parts to go and inhabit it.
•
The Canal widens from the Caftle to Courouchif
me, and forms a great Gulph in the fhape of a
Bow, on the Banks of which is a Seraglio of the
Grand Seignior, then the Village of Bubec Bachefi,
and next Arnautcui, or the Village of the Albaneze
or Arnauts. This Gulph of Arnautcui is meant by
Dionyfius Byzantinus under the Name of the Gulph
of the Ladder, becauſe in thoſe times there was a
famous Ladder or Machine compos'd of Beams,
which was of great ufe in loading and unloading
of Ships, becauſe they went up to it as it were by
Steps. Such forts of Machines were call'd Chela,
upon account of the Lord knows what refemblance
obferv'd between them and the Claws of a Crab;
from Chele came Scale, and hence it is that the
Ports most frequented in the Levant are call'd
Ladders. Perhaps the Temple of Diana built at
Arnautcui, and very well known to the Fiſhermen
by the Name of Dictynna, might give occafion to
fet Ladders there for the more eafy imbarking and
landing. Thofe Machines were not rais'd high,
but lay almoft flat upon the Sea-fhore, and kept
People dry-fhod in their paffing to and fro.
會
​After Arnautcui you come to the famous Cape
des Efties, at the Foot whereof ftands Courouchifme.
Efties is very probably a Remnant of Heftia, a Name
by which the Greeks knew the Goddefs Vefta, who
perhaps had fome Temple hereabouts. Courouchif
me was formerly call'd Afomaton, from a Church
built
Defcript. of the Canal of the Black Sea. 389
built there by Conftantine, in honour of St. Michael
the Archangel. Procopius defcribes the Magnifi-
cence of this Church, which was rebuilt by Jufti-
nian; but there is no Footſtep of it left. We
can't fay the fame of the March of the Crabs,
which to avoid being borne away with the Current,
which is very violent above the Cape, are forced
to fcramble along the Rocks, and venture not a-
gain into the Canal till they have whetted their
Claws to fome purpoſe, and as it were carv'd their
Steps upon the Rocks.
From Cape Courouchifine to the point of Beſich-
tachi the Canal runs out into a half Circle, on
the fide of which ſtand Ortacui and St. Phocas.
Ortacui is a Village built on the Port which the
Ancients call'd Chidium and the Old Sea Man, whom
fome take to be Nereus, others Proteus, or fome
God of the Waters. The little Port of St. Phocas
is at the Entrance of a fruitful Valley, known to
the Ancients upon account of Archias of Taffos,
who made choice of it to build a City in; but ac-
cording to Stephanus Byzantinus, the Chalcedonians
out of Jealouſy oppos'd it. Below St. Phocas is
another Port where the Rhodians anchor'd when
they came to trade in the Pontus, which preſerv'd
to it the Name of Rhodacinon. Thefe Rhodians
were fo powerful at Sea in thofe Days, that they
forced the Byzantines to allow a free Trade upon
the Pontus Euxinus, that is to fay, to give free Paf
fage to all Nations that were willing to fail into the
Black Sea, without exacting any Impofts from them.
There now remains only Befichtachi or Befichtas,
before you come to Fondocli, the firft of the Sub-
urbs of Conftantinople, according to the Route we
follow'd. Befichtachi formerly bore the Name of
Fafon the Captain of the Argonauts. That Hero,
according to Stephanus Byzantinus, reſted in this
Place, where there was nothing but a Foreft of
Cyprefs
390 A VOYAGE into the Levant.
Cypress Trees and a Temple to Apollo. In Af-
ter-times, or rather many Ages afterwards, the
fame Place took the Name of Diplocionion, from
two Columns of Thebaic Stone, which are ftill to
be feen near the Tomb of Barbaroffa, who was
certainly a much greater Man in Sea-matters than
Fafon, tho' born of poor Parents in the Ifland of
Metelin. Barbaroffa dy'd King of Algier, and
Captain-baffa in 1547. Solyman II. call'd him
Chairadin, that is to fay, a great Captain: from
Chairadin Chalcondylus has made it Charatin, and
Paulus Jovius Hariadene.
To follow exactly the Defcription given us of
the Bosphorus by Dionyfius Byzantinus, we should look
for the Places, where were formerly Penteconta-
rion, Thermaftis, Delphinus, and Charandas; the
Temple of Ptolemæus Philadelphus, Palinormicon,
and Aiantium: but where ſhould we find them?
The Greeks and Turks have turn'd every thing
topfy-turvy fince that time, to people Fondocti and
Topana, where lies Cape Metopon, which fronts
the Point of the Seraglio.
I am, MY LORD, &c.
The End of the fecond VOLUME.
PSITY OF CHIGAN
3 9015 00700 1830
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