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THE NAVIGATORS' ISLANDS,
OR
SAMOAN GROUP.
THEIR RARE FERTILITY, NUMEROUS PRODUCTIONS, SALUBRIOUS
CLIMATE, AND CHARMING SCENERY.
THE CENTRAL SITUATION OF THE HARBOUR OF PAGO-PACO.
ACTION OF THE UNITED STATES GOVERNMENT - PRO-
CEEDINGS OF THE POLYNESIAN LAND AND COM-
MERCIAL COMPANY REPORT TO THE NEW ZEALAND
GOVERNMENT-OPINIONS OF THE PRESS, &c., &c.
LONDON :
LAURIE AND CO., 33, FLEET STREET.
1872
26785
THE NAVIGATORS' ISLANDS,
IGA
OR
SAMOAN GROUP.
THEIR RARE FERTILITY, NUMEROUS PRODUCTIONS, SALUBRIOUS
CLIMATE, AND CHARMING SCENERY.
THẢ CENTRAL SITUATION OF THE HARBOUR OF PAGO-PAGO.
t
.
ACTION OF THE UNITED STATES GOVERNMENT - PRO-
CEEDINGS OF THE POLYNESIAN LAND AND COM-
MERCIAL COMPANY-REPORT TO THE NEW ZEALAND
GOVERNMENT-OPINIONS OF THE PRESS, &c., &c.
LONDON:
LAURIE AND CO., 53, FLEET STREFT.
1872.

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ON
THE
NAVIGATORS' ISLANDS, OR SAMOAN GROUP
THE rare fertility, salubrious climate, and exquisite beauty, as well
as the great future commercial promise of many of the islands in the
South Pacific, have long been known. Unfortunately, until recently
these islands have for the most part been out of the track of any
direct line of steam or sailing packets. During the past two years,
however, this has been altered. The completion of the transconti-
nental railroad of America has made the Pacific route to Australia
and New Zealand the favourite one, and commerce along that line is
increasing with rapid strides. Already many of the islands are being
quiokly populated. Their great adaptability to the growth of sea
island cotton, as well as their advantages in many other respects, are
rendering them highly attractive to settlers. Upon the inauguration
of steam communication between San Francisco and Australasia,
about a year and a half ago, Messrs. Collie, Stewart, and Co.,
merchants rosident at San Francisco, but long connected with
the trade of the South Pacific Islands, saw that the central posi-
tion of the Navigator Islands, and the exceptional superiority of the
magnificent harbour of Pago-Pago in that group, was such that those
islands must in a short time become almost invaluable. With a view
to acquire that harbour, to purchase as much as possible of the fertile
lands of the group so admirably suited to the growth of cotton and of
sugar, and to form a central commercial depôt in the South Pacific,
Memors. Collie, Stewart, and Co., early in 1871 formed a small company
composed of a few friends, which was duly registered under the laws of
the State of California, under the name of the “ Central Polynesian
Land and Commercial Company," with a capital of 100,000 dollars.
But the success of the Company in obtaining valuable purchases of large
tracts of fertile lands has been such that the expenditure incurred
soon amounted to nearly three times the Company's capital. Three
hundred thousand acres of land have been secured, which, it is safe to
4
say, would realise, if cut up and sold to settlers upon three years'
credit, an average of £2 per acre, thus leaving a handsome profit to
the Company if they chose to part with their rights in that way.
Offers, indeed, have been made from Germany and from the Southern
States of America, to settle the whole of these lands upon such terms
as have just been indicated. Whilst it may ultimately be desirable
to part with a portion of the land to bond-fide settlers, a more
favourable time for that will arrive hereafter. In the meantime
larger ideas than the mere settling of land occupy the minds of the
promoters of this enterprise. The determination of the Australian
and New Zealand Governments to maintain a subsidised line of
steamers to San Francisco, is intended to be availed of. By that
muans it is easy to see that this property in the Navigator Islands
may be made to attain a value that it would be difficult to-day to set
bounds to. On the shores of the harbour that has been acquired,
called Pago-Pago, would undoubtedly arise the great central city of
the South Pacific, from which the future trade of the surrounding
islands would be controlled. It is not, however, intended herein to
describe in detail the views of the proinoters, or to put their sugges-
tions into practical proposals ; another opportunity will be availed
of to do that. This pamphlet is rather intended to give the history of
the enterprise up to the present, and to show from authentic official
reports the great value of these islands.
The following Report to his Company by Mr. Stewart, shows the
origin of the enterprise, describes what has been accomplished, and
explains how it comes that further aid towards carrying out the pro-
ject is to be solicited.
THE REPORT OF J. B. M. STEWART, ESQ.,
PRESIDENT OF THE CENTRAL POLYNESIAN LAND AND COMMERCIAL
COMPANY.
To the Trustees of
“The Central Polynesian Land and Commercial Company."
GENTLEMEN,—The time has arrived when I feel it my duty-after
placing before you a review of the highly flattering progress made by
your Company—to invite your best consideration to determine the
steps that may be necessary to carry to a successful issue the promis-
ing enterprise in which we are embarked.
As you are aware, the Central Polynesian Land and Commercial
Company was incorporated under the laws of the State of California,
5
for “the purchase and acquisition of lands on the Navigator
Islands, and the cultivation, sale, lease, or otherwise disposing of
the same.
The formation of a coaling-station for the United
States, New Zealand, and Australian Mail Steamship line in
accordance with letters of agreement between W. H. Webb and
J. B. M. Stewart, and the establishmennt of a Central Polynesian
Depôt to be connected with the various groups of islands in the
South Pacific,” with a capital of 100,000 dollars in one thousand
sbares of 100 dollars each.
After the necessary organisation of the Company, its first action
was the purchase of all the lands selected and acquired on the
Navigator Islands, under an agreement between W. H. Webb and
myself, together with the goods and property undisposed of in said
islands in the hands of Mr. George Collie, shipped from hence for that
purpose, and forming part of the cargoes of the vessels “ Kentucky,"
“L. P. Foster,” and “ Hallie Jackson.” These goods were sub-
sequently disposed of upon profitable terms and proceeds applied to
the purchase of lands. The agreement alluded to with Mr. Webb,
as you are aware, provided that he should have the option of taking
an interest at cost price amounting to 54-100ths of all lands pur-
chased, and a harbour, the location of which to be approved of by an
agent appointed by him. In consideration of such option, Mr.
Webb, on behalf of the United States, New Zealand, and Australian
Mail Company, agreed to make the harbour in such Navigator Islands
a port of call by the steamers of the said line. In pursuance of that
agreement Mr. Webb appointed Captain E. Wakeman his agent. That
gentleman, having proceeded to the Navigator Islands, named the
harbour of Pago-Pago in the island of Tutuila (one of the best in
the South Pacific) as the port of call aforesaid, and addressed to Mr.
Webb the highly satisfactory report which has been laid before you
of the richness of the neighbouring lands and of their great com.
mercial value in the future. It was then determined by you that, as
your president, I should proceed to the scene of our operations at the
Navigator Islands, with a view to facilitate the acquisition of lands
and generally to take such action as might seem best in the interests
of the Company.
Accordingly, the schooner “ Witch Queen" was purchased, and a
cargo of the most saleable goods having been selected, I sailed from
San Francisco in February last and reached Upolo on the 2nd April
following. Upon my arrival I found that in accordance with the
wishes of your company the United States ship' of war “ Narra.
gansett,” Commander Meade, 0.8.N., had been there and action
6
taken, the importance of which in the Company's interest it is
impossible to overrate. Commander Meade had entered into a
treaty on behalf of the United States (subject to ratification of
Congress) with the chief Pago-Page for the cession of the harbour of
that name to the United States for the purposes of a coaling depôt
and naval station, guaranteeing to the people of the island protection
from all foreign enemies, confirming them in the possession of their
lands, and recognising their right to sell or dispose of the same as
they may think fit.
Having secured the hearty co-operation and valuable assistance of
the United States Commercial agent and of Her Britannic Majesty's
Consul at Upolo, I succeeded in purchasing from the high chiefs of
the islands of Upolo, Sawii, Manono, and Tutuila, 414 square miles of
land, making with the quantity previously purchased a total of about
300,000 acres acquired and now the property of this Company, as
will appear from the accompanying documents signed by the chiefs
and owners and certified to by the signatures and seals of office of
the officials named.
Prior to my arrival, the British and American residents had pro-
duced in the minds of the high chiefs a very strong desire that the
islands should be annexed to the United States. During my visit
the Consuls called a meeting of all the chiefs interested, and annexa-
tion was fully discussed and received the unanimous approval of the
high chiefs, consuls, missionaries, white residents, and natives of
these islands. A petition to His Excellency the President of the
United States of America was adopted and signed by the chiefs, from
which the following is a translation : “We, the chiefs and rulers of
Samoa, deem it necessary for our future well-being and better
establishment of Christianity, free institutions, fellowship of man-
kind, protection of life and property, and to secure the blessings of
liberty and free trade to ourselves and future generations, do petition
the President of the United States of America to annex these our
islands to the United States of America."
During my stay arrangements were perfected for the establishment
of our Commercial depôt, stores were obtained, and our goods were
being readily disposed of in exchange for money and the articles of
commerce which the islands produce. The natives of the Samcan
Islands, like those of most of the surrounding groups, are exceedingly
anxious to trade and to obtain European articles of clothing, etc.,
and nothing is wanting but the adding the links of that vast chain
of commercial intercourse among the innumerable islands of the
South Pacific which this Company has in view in order to build up
1
7
a trade the limits of which it would be difficult to day to set bounds
to. Having left proper agents in charge under Mr. Collie, I sailed
from the islands more than ever impressed with the great future
promise, as well as of the present value of our enterprise.
Upon my return to San Francisco it seemed desirable before further
action was determined on to obtain the decision of Mr. W. H. Webb
in relation to his right to exercise his option of taking at cost price
54-100ths of the lands purchased. I accordingly proceeded to New
York, where that gentleman then was, and after exhibiting the
whole of the documents, showing that in every particular the stipu-
lations of our agreement had been complied with, Mr. Webb
assured me that he was unable to take up the interest referred to,
but would be glad to do so when he had received aid from Congress,
but at the present time he gives up his option of participating in the
lands purchased.
Leaving New York, I proceeded to Washington with a view to
ascertain the probable action of the United States Government in
reference to the petition of the people of Samoa for annexation. I
learned, through the kind offices of Senator Cole and others, that in
preference to annexation the Government would look with more favour
upon the establishment of a local government composed of the resi-
dent white settlers and of the natives, and based upon the model of that
of the Hawaiian Islands. By the next mail a letter to that effect from
the Secretary of State, Washington, will be forwarded to the people of
Samoa. * As there need be no difficulty in at once forming such a
government, and as I saw many advantages likely to accrue to the
Company from its formation, I at once favoured that course, and
cannot help congratulating the Company upon the success of this
negotiation. Recognised by the United States of America, and with
a naval station established in their midst, the new Government will
come into existence with a moral power and influence greater even
than that possessed by the successful Government of Hawaii.
Having thus narrated our proceedings up to the present, I venture
confidently to recommend as follows :-
1st. That at the time that may hereafter be deemed most fitting,
the necessary steps be taken to form a Government for the Samoan
or Navigator Islands, based upon the model of the present Govern-
ment of Hawaii.
2nd. In consequence of Mr. Webb not paying fifty-four hun-
* It has since been ascertained that if it be thought preferable in the interests
of the commerce of the Pacific, that annexation should take place, no insuperable
objections to that course need be feared.
8
dredths of the purchases made, the unexpectedly large quantities
of valuable land offered and purchased by the Company, the in-
creasing opportunities that are opening up among the Fiji, Society,
Friendly, and the innumerable other groups of islands in the South
Pacific, for the distribution of goods from the Company's central
depôt, by means of small steamers, &c., and from the small amount
of capital upon which this Company was formed, it is apparent that
our capital must in some manner be greatly increased. The question
is us to the best way to accomplish this. In view of the great
demands being made in all parts of the State for money,
and the
unprecedented rates of interest now prevailing here, it would seem
best to seek aid from abroad. I would, therefore, recommend that
all the necessary legal steps be taken to enable a new organisation to
be formed in London, ample powers being given by this Company to
transfer all their lands, rights, &c., &c.
3rd. In view of the confidence which we all in common possess in
the great future of the enterprise we have inaugurated, I would recom-
mend the present shareholders to legally enable the person through
whom the negotiations for a new Company may be conducted to
take shares for them in the proposed organisation, equal to their
present interest in this Company.
Yours respectfully,
J. B. M. STEWART, President.
a confidence inan
San Francisco, A ugrast 5, 1872.
baroccellence.
9
THE ACTION OF THE UNITED STATES GOVERNMENT.
Ar the instance of the Polynesian Land and Commercial Company,
the United States Government caused their ship of war, 'the
"Narragansett,” to proceed to the Navigators' Islands, in January
1872, in charge of Commander R. W. Meade. Acting under instructions,
that officer procured by treaty the right of the United States to use
the harbour of Pago-Pago as a naval station. He also caused articles
of confederation and certain general laws to be adopted, and took
other official action of importance, as will appear from the following
extracts from the papers laid before Congress by the President of the
United States.
ARTICLES OF CONFEDERATION.
The following are the articles of confederation which, pending the
formation of a permanent government, have been adopted by the
chiefs :
alliance of Chiep an eastera ha Tutuila, eGilson, 2.99)
“Know all men by these presents, that we, Maunga, Chief of Le
Fagaloa ; Leiato, Chief of Le Alatana ; Faumuina, Chief of Le Laole; Ser
Loliai, Chief of Le Itau, Samoa, having met in council this 9th day map
of March, A.D. 1872, do hereby agree to form a league and confedera Anie
tion for our mutual welfare and protection, and to unite our several
districts under the flag raised at Pago-Pago on the 2nd day of March,
A.D. 1872, and we hereby do solemnly bind ourselves to carry out
this covenant faithfully, and to maintain peace with each other,
and
to carry out in our several districts the commercial regulations and
laws of Pago-Pago, promulgated and recognised by Commander
Richard W. Meude, United States Navy, commanding United States
steamer Narragansett.'
" In witness whereof we have hereunto set our hands and seals
this 9th day of March, 1872.
“ 0. AU 0. LEIATO,
“ 0. AU O. MAUAGA,
“O. AU O. FAUNUINA,
"0. AU 0. MAUAGA MA ITUAU.
(Witnesses)
“R. W. MEADE, Commander U.S. Navy.
“T. MEREDITH, U.S. Vice-Consular Agent.”
10
THE FLAG OF SAMOA.
A' flag, of which we annex a drawing, was raised and saluted with
fifteen guns by Commander Meade :
VII
1
1
The nine stripes represent the nine islands of Samoa. Tutuila is
the central island of the group, and Pago-Pago is the key to Samoa.
The four white stripes and white stars represent the four large
islands of Sawii, Upolo, Tutuila, and Tan. The five blue stripes
represent the small islands. The moon (an ancient emblem in Samoa)
is shown in the first and last quarters, representing the letter “S," or
Samoa. The corner ground is red.
The Samoans are a fine-made race, very light in colour. The
women are in many instances exceedingly beautiful. English mis-
sionaries have been residents among them for thirty years past, and
they warmly approve the steps now being taken to give Samoa a
stable government. The natives have long since recognised Chris-
tianity, and for the most part live according to its teachings. In do
place have the missionaries been more successful. A United States
Commercial Agent, a Consul of Her Britannic Majesty, and about
one hundred British and Americans, are residents in Samoa. The,
islands are fertile and beautiful in the extreme, so much so as to
:
.
.
11
have extorted from all'who have visited them language of admiration
that almost sound extravagant.
1
VIEW OF THE INNER HARBOUR OP PAGO-PAGO,
(From a Photograph taken by Commander R. W. Meade.)
ADDRESS TO THE CHIEFS BY COMMANDER MEADE.
After the harbour of Pago-Pago had been duly ceded by treaty,
Commander Meade delivered the following address :
"The Government of the United States of America is about to
establish commercial relations with the Samoan Islands by means of
the line of steamers now plying between California, Hawaii, New
Zealand, and Australia, and wishes, in its own interest as well as that
of its citizens, to secure a convenient port in the Samoan Islands, to
use as a coaling station and resort for its ships of war which are to
cruise in the South Sea, to guard commerce, and to give you the
protection we have guaranteed.
“I came to Pago-Pago as it is the finest harbour on the Islands
and the key to Samoa, and have surveyed it for that purpose, and
:
::
:
12
secured from the Chief of Pago such rights and privileges as will
prevent other nations from acting in a way adverse to the interests of
American citizens, or to your injury as a free people and the rightful
owners of the soil.
“ The United States Government does not seek your territory or
the control of your affairs, but wishes simply to secure to its own
people, who may come among you to buy land for themselves, the
lawful enjoyment of their rights of property under such wise laws as
you yourselves shall make.
“ The Government of the United States will from time to time
send ships of war (and they have many) to your islands, and also, no
doubt, wise persons, to assist you in framing good laws for yourselves
and the foreigners who may settle among you, and will aid you by
its influence and protection to establish a sound and stable form of
Government, under which the Samoan people can grow prosperous
and happy
“The Government and people of the United States seek your
friendship and welfare, and will aid you to establish yourselves as a
nation by peacefully exerting its influence to prevent your indepen-
dence from being taken away from you by any foreign power what-
ever.”
LAWS OF SAMOA.
The following code of laws were adopted by the chiefs, and recog-
nised by Commander Meade on behalf of the United States :
1st. All foreign Consuls, duly appointed, shall be protected and
respected, both in their persons and property, and all foreigners
settling on the Islands and conforming to the laws shall receive the
protection of the Government.
2nd. The fullest protection shall be given to all foreign ships and
vessels which may be wrecked, and any property saved shall be taken
in charge by the Consul of the country to which the vessel belongs,
who will allow salvage on the property so saved. No embezzlement
will be permitted. The effects of all foreigners deceased will be given
up to the Consul of the nation of the person so deceased.
3rd. Every vessel entering Pago-Pago shall pay a port charge to
the chief, to be regulated by Agreement between the chief, the agent
of the Californian and Australian Steamship Company, and the
foreign Consul. Pilots shall be appointed by the same persons. The
agent of the Steamship Company to be Pilot Commissioner ex-officio,
and the pilotage for men-of-war and merchant vessels to be one dollar

ISLAND OF TUTUILA--HARBOUR OF PAGO-PAGO.
(From a pen-and-ink sketch taken by an officer of United States sloop of war “Narragansett.")
15
per foot of draught, and one dollar per day for detention on board.
Where pilots are declined, half pilotage will be paid. Each pilot to
be furnished with a copy of port regulations, and to show the same
to the masters of each vessel which he may bring into port.
4th. No work shall be done on shore, nor shall any natives be em-
ployed on board vessels on Sunday, under a penalty of ten dollars,
except under circumstances of absolute necessity, such as aid in case
of the wreck of a vessel, or the coaling of the steamship obliged to
proceed on time on her voyage north or south.
5th. All trading in distilled or spirituous liquors or any kind of
intoxicating drink is absolutely prohibited. Any person so offending
shall be fined 100 dollars on conviction before a mixed court. All
such liquors found on shore and kept for sale or barter in any way,
shall be seized and destroyed. If any native is found intoxicated,
the individual who has supplied him with drink shall pay a fine of
ten dollars. If any foreigner be found drunk or riotous he shall pay
a fine of ten dollars.
6th. Any person found guilty of offering inducement to a native
female to prostitute herself to a foreigner, to pay a fine of ten dollars ;
and any native female found guilty of prostituting herself to a
foreigner, to pay a fine of twenty dollars.
7th. Deserters shall be apprehended by the chief on application to
him through the Consul, to whom he must be delivered. The usual
rewards required by regulation to be paid by men-of-war, and ten
dollars shall be paid by merchantmen-one-third to go to the chief.
8th. All fines to be paid in specie, or its equivalent, or be com-
mated at the rate of one month's labour on roads for ten dollars.
9th. Should any master of any merchant vessel refuse compliance
with the local regulations, the case to be referred to the Consul of
the nation to which the vessel belongs, who is required to afford
redress.
(Signed by the High Chiefs.)
Approved and sent to the United Governments for the information
of all masters of vessels visiting Pago-Pago.
RICHARD W. MEADE, Commander U. S. N.
i
16
REPORT OF CAPTAIN WAKEMAN.
As has been previously mentioned, Captain Wakeman was sent by
Mr. W. H. Webb to report upon the harbour of Pago-Pago, and
upon the resources of the Navigators' Islands generally. His report
appears printed with the official documents presented by President
Grant to Congress, and is as follows:
At Sea, September 20th, 1871.
I left Honolulu July 30th, on board S.S. "Nevada," and proceeded
to the Navigators' Group of islands. On the night of August 8th, at
9.30 p.m., I was dropped into a quarter-boat with one man off the
harbour of Pago-Pago, Island of Tutuila, without a deviation or
detention of five minutes to the steamer. At 1.30, although quite
dark, we had arrived at the head of the bay in six fathoms of water
and alongside the brig “L. P. Foster," she having anchored there the
day before. At daylight I found myself in the most perfect land-
locked harbour that exists in the Pacific Ocean. In approaching this
harbour from the south, either by night or day, the mariner has
unmistakable landmarks to conduct him into port. One on the port-
hand, a high-peaked conical mountain 2,327 feet high; and on the
starboard-hand, a flat-topped mountain 1,470 feet in height-which
keep sentinel on either hand. These landmarks can never be mistaken
by the mariner. The entrance to the harbour is three-quarters of a
mile in width between Tower Rock on the port-side, and Breaker
Point on the starboard-hand, with soundings of thirty-six fathoms. A
little more than one mile from Breaker Point on the starboard-hand
to Goat Island on the port-hand we open out the inner harbour,
which extends one mile west at a breadth of 3,000 feet abreast of
Goat Island, to 1,100 feet at the head of the bay. Carrying sound-
ings from eightean fathoms to six fathoms at the head of the bay, the
roefs which skirt the shores are from 300 feet to 500 feet wide, almost
awash at low sea. They have at their (edge) border from four
fathoms to five, six, and eight, and deeper in the middle of the harbour.
The hills rise abruptly aronnd this bay from 800 to 1,000 feet in
height. They are covered from base to summit with a luxariant
growth of evergreen foliage ; the little valleys which nestle at their
bases, and the narrow belt of land which skirts the shore, are densely
covered with cocoa-nut groves, bread-fruit, banana, orange, pineapple,
lime-troes, and a variety of tropical plants. The different streams of
17
fresh water which pour into the placid waters of the bay dotted with
canoes, some of which are capable of carrying 300 people, complete
one of the most interesting pictures that can be contemplated. The
island of Tutuila is seventeen miles in length by five in breadth.
There is nothing to prevent a steamer, night or day, from proceding
to her wharf. About half way from Breaker Point to Goat Island,
and near mid-channel, is Whale Rock, with eight feet of water over
it at low sea.
It has a circumference of about fifty feet, and breaks
frequently. A buoy renders this danger harmless. The services of a
pilot can never be required by any one who has visited this port before,
as the trade-winds from E.S.E. carry a vessel from near Breaker Point
with a free sheet on a N.N.W. course into the harbour.
Mr. Powell, a missionary, who has been a resident of this place
twenty-two years, says that he never knew of a longer detention than
nine days to any ships in that time, and of but one gale, which came
from the eastward and unroofed a wing of his kitchen. The trade-
winds are frequently liable to haul from E.S.E. to E.N.E., giving a
ship a chance to get out with a leading wind. At the different
quarters of the moon the tide rises four and a half feet. The air was
at eighty-two degrees, and the water seventy-eight degrees during our
stay. The passing showers of rain keep the ground moist and the air
cool. There are 400 inhabitants around the shores of the bay, and I
think 4,000 a fair estimate of the population of the whole island.
About one-quarter of the island is susceptible of cultivation. Two
places have been secured in the bay of Pago-Pago for your ships, the
best that could be selected. As the trees, stones, and earth are close
at hand to fill up with, and are free, nothing but the long piles for the
fenders and plank for the wharf would be required to be shipped from
Puget Sound as a deck-load with coal below, and a wharf could be
easily constructed with every facility at hand. These people are a
fine, large, muscular race; perfectly inoffensive, but knowing little of
the blessings of labour, as all their wants are supplied. Since every
man is a landowner he is perfectly independent, but I have no doubt
that in a short time, like the Sandwich Islanders, they would readily
apply themselves to habits of industry. In the meantime good labour
can be had from the adjacent isles, and a few Sandwich Islanders
would soon teach them to work. Chinamen would be invaluable
here. The productions of the island are on a soil of dark loam, and
in spots a roddish-coloured loam. The cocoanut, from which cobra is
made which is the pulp of the nut sliced and dried three days in the
sun to prevent mildew-grows in this loam. Cobra is worth 100
dollars per ton in Europe. Bread-fruit, bananas, oranges, limes,
B
18
sassafras, nutmeg, vinegar plant, curry, indigo, tarra, sweet-potato,
yams, pineapples, arrowroot, sugar-cane, cotton, coffee, and a variety
of tropical plants, including dye-woods, are found here. Indian corn
grows also, two crops a year. The stalk is not so tall as in Illinois,
but the cob is as long and the kernel as finely developed, and as good
as the best. The cotton-tree is from ten to twelve feet in height, and
six inches in diameter. It has large, spreading branches, the boll
being about the size of an apricot, and breaks into three parts. The
cotton is snow-white and a fine staple. About eight miles from Pago-
Pago, over an easy grade, is Cocoanut Valley, which is about seven
miles long by five broad. The soil is very rich, producing everything
that the tropics can grow. The foliage is so dense that the soil is
always damp. Here the largest trees are found—one that is used as a
pine, another is like mahogany, from which the pulpits in their
churches are made, the bottoms of their canoes, their paddles and
stoering oars. Cocoanut and bread-fruit trees are used for the same
purposes, but are more highly prized on account of their fruit.
There are various kinds of bread-fruit. Some are as large as the
cocoanut with the husk on, and some about the size of a nut with the
husk off.
Bread-fruit is roasted and eaten while hot, when it has the flavour
of the sweet-potato. From the bark of the tree most of the native
clothing is made, and a gum which exudes from the trunk is used as
pitch in the seams of their canoes, and is also chewed by the young
of both sexes.
It appears to be the same tasteless article which is Ho
extensively used in all our schools.
The nutmeg-tree grows to a height of thirty feet and ten inches in
diameter. The fruit is the veritable nutmeg of commerce, although
not so corrugated as the Borneo nut; it has more of an egg-shape.
There is a parasitic plant in this valley, and almost all the trees are
covered with it. The leaf is heart-shaped, about three inches long
and wide, also pretty thick. The vine is a creeper a large as the
little finger and grows rapidly. Both leaf and vine are sarsaparilla
in taste and every other respect; a decoction of the same is used with
the best results in cases of scrofula ; it is a great blood purifier. At
two and a half miles from this valley, on an easy grade, is a lagoon
which could, with a little powder used on the reef, be made to receive
large schooners. Nobody lives in the valley, and to purchase land
quite a number of petty chiefs would have to be consulted.
Maungo is the principal chief on the island; he lives at the head
of Pago-Pago Bay, and holds his power more from factious causes and
minsionary influence than from any hereditary title derived from blood
:
1
.
1
15
19
or birth. The little island of Anu, to the cast of Tutuila, contains
200 inhabitants, and produces considerable cobra and cocoanut oil. It
abounds in banana, tarra, bread-fruit, and cocoanut trees. On its
summit, an elevation of 600 feet, a site for a lighthouse has been
secured, as it can be seen alike from the north or south, and is right
on a line with the ship's course in passing. Being only seven miles
from the entrance to Pago-Pago Bay or Harbour, the ships could pick
up the port-lights and go in immediately to the wharf in the darkest
night. There are several fine harbours for schooners on both sides of
Tutuila.
UPOLO.
On the 17th of August, left Pago-Pago and ran down before the
wind and sea, on the “ L. P. Foster," for Upolo Island. At
p.m.,
hove-to off Fangaloa Bay for the night, seventeen miles to windward
of Apia Harbour. On the 18th, at daylight, made sail and stood in
for Apia, where we came to anchor at 10 a.m., in six fathoms of
water, in front of McFarlan's house, Found the United States
sloop of war “St. Marys" here.
St. Marys" here. Called on the captain immediately
and learned that he was from Tahiti, and would sail the next day for
the Phoenix Group, then to the Feejees, and be in Sydney
about December. I informed him that there had been a mutiny at
Baker's Island, and requested him to call and render what services
might be required. He said that his instructions were to sight all
the islands without communicating, but that under the circumstances
he would see to them. Called on Mr. Weber, delivered iny letters,
and found him to belong to a Hamburg house of fifteen years'
standing. He has two large ships now in port, of 800 tons each,
one nearly loaded,' and others to follow in a few months. He has
also four large schooners, two in port and two absent. He trades
among the various islands down on the equator and brings their
cargoes here, where they are received by the large vessels and
dispatched for Hamburg. Two large ships are now due from his
house, and they bring out articles of trade and take back principally
cobra
These ships, although they remain at Apis from six to nine months,
carry home a freight of from 80 to 100,000 dollars.
On this group of islands, ten cocoanuts are purchased for one
niggerhead of tobacco; on the islands near the equator, fifteen cocoa
nats can be had for one plug. This island of Upolo is justly called
the Garden of the Pacific. There is probably no place in the world
of equal dimensions which is so well watered at all points, with so
20
many rivers flowing from the interior to the sea on both sides ; so
many fine large springs of pure cold water boiling up from the earth
and flowing in thousands of silent little streams toward the sea.
I have had to ford, in passing over three miles of land along the
shore, no less than five rivers, many of which contain some of the
finest water-power that could be desired. The soil is generally a dark
loan, in some places a reddish loam. The cocoanut groves here
excel any that I ever saw before, and extend far back from the sea
into the mountains. Bread-fruit is also in the greatest abundance
and in the most perfect condition, there being about twelve varieties,
some very large. Bananas are nowhere found in greater abundance,
many varieties existing, all being very fine. The sugar China
banana is, without exception, the most delicious fruit that can be
found. Oranges are large in size, very juicy, and fine flavoured.
Citrons are very large and fine. The yams are the largest known in
the world, and of the best quality. Limes are about the size of a
common lemon. The largest mangrove in the world is found here,
and has just the same flavour as the small ones elsewhere ; also, the
mamma-apple, arrowroot, sussafras, vinegar-plant, and the ti-plant,
the leaves of which constitute the whole wardrobe of both sexes.
The root of this plant is larger than the California beet, containing
about four times the amount of saccharine matter. Also, a great
variety of tropical plants which are very valuable as medicines, trees
used for dye-woods, etc. But the great staple article is cotton, which
is indigenous to the soil. Some of this cotton sold in Europe last
year at eighty-seven cents per pound. When we know that the very
best quality of Sea Island cotton in the world can be produced here
with a profit at one shilling per pound, and a yield of 500 pounds
to the acre, it is fair to presume that this is destined to become a
very important article of commerce. The tree is from ten to twelve
feet in height, and well filled with pods. Sugar-cane is a weed, it
grows wild, is about twelve feet in height and filled with juice.
Coffee is, like all the above-named articles, indigenous. The only
coffee estate which has been started is on the island of Sawii; in
three years the trees were seven feet high, and produced fifteen
pounds of coffee each. This resembled Mocha more than anything
else, from its small round bean, or kernel.
The French Catholic Mission at A pia is about to plant a large
coffee estate, and has selected the top of one of the highest moun-
tains in the vicinity. All vegetables are in abundance. Stringed
beans two yards in length, peas and everything in that line.
Indian corn two crops per year. Sweet-potatoes not so large as in
1
.
:
.
.
21
California, but they cook mellow and have the same flavour. Tarra,
which is the main source of food in all the islands, is here abundant
and in the most perfect condition, also water-melons, musk-melons,
squashes, pumpkins, and all kinds of garden vegetables—as radishes,
onions, lettuce. Everything that is put into the ground here does
well. Tobacco is indigenous, but has not been cultivated to any
extent, although it constitutes a principal article of trade. This
island (Upolo) is about thirty-eight miles long by ten broad, and
from the fact that the passing showers of rain visit it, has the most
perfect system of irrigation that could be desired. I can see no
reason why this isle, in a few years, should not become a Java, a
Mauritius, a Ceylon, Cuba, or a Barbados. And, in fact, when a
comparison of all the other islands is made with Upolo, when more
than three-quarters of the island is like a garden soil, and when we
know that not more than a fourth part of all those islands and
others which have contributed such immense wealth to the world's
commerce are arable—the future importance of this group may be
readily seen. The harbour of Apia is the best on the island of
Upolo, although there are many both on the north side and the
south. There were some twelve vessels in port when I was there, a
French, Russian, and American man-of-war, and two large merchant
ships ; the rest were small craft. The harbour was well filled, and
the ships rolled their bilges about five feet up and down for the first
week, afterward it was smoother. They all lay moored head to the
Trades. During the winter months, from December to April, the
Trades are broken up and come from the northward, when it is about
impossible to get out of this port with a square-rigged vessel. As
the swell comes in from N.N.E. pretty heavily, a vessel must
be well found with plenty of ground tackle to enable her to hold on.
She must be anchored close under the reef abreast the American
Consul's house. But once in thirty years has the wind in this port
been rated at a close-reefed breeze; as the winds are never in pro-
portion to the waves, it is conclusive, as the records show, that the
hurricanes which sweep over the Feejees yearly with such fury,
travel to the left hand from N.W. over the Feejees down to eighteen
or twenty degrees south latitude, and revolve over the Tongesa
group and to the northward of the Samoa group.
A basiu could be created at Apia by cutting 1,000 feet through the
beach, which is 4 feet above high-water mark, to a lagoon where
the ships wonld float in fresh water protected from all weathers, at a
cost of about 30,000 dollars. The air is eighty-five to ninety degrees,
watur eighty degrees. I will conclude my limited remarks in regard
22
to the island of Upolo by saying that I know of no other island with
the same form of government, which all the chiefs are willing and
desirous of ceding to the Americans, and which would in that event
be so valuable. From its commanding position in mid-Pacific, with
the control of the commerce of all the islands which are contiguous to
this group, Australia and New Zealand at their doors, and the Pacific
coast of America to supply with sugar, coffee, &c., no other group
affords equal facility for a Naval Station, as well as a Coal Depôt for
steamers, with a brilliant future for a most lucrative and extensive
commercial enterprise.
SAWII.
The great island of Sawii, which is a few miles to the west of Upolo,
is thirty-nine miles long and twenty broad. There are about twelve
miles in the middle of this isle which is like about two-thirds of the
Sandwich Islands, a burnt cinder, upon which nothing can grow. All
the rest of the island is like Upolo, the same soil and climate, with
easy undulating hills and extensive plains; also, the same products,
with the exception that the Irish potato grows on the uplands, which
are higher than in any of the rest of the group. There is a good trail
completely around the island, which contains 10,000 inhabitants, in
eighty villages. It has no good harbour, but many anchorages in
different parts.
It is not so well watered as Upolo, but has abundant
springs, which, together with the rain, are all that is needed to pro-
duce everything in abundance.
ROSE ISLAND.
Rose Island is the most eastern of all this group. It is a small
angular covered reef just above water. Mr. Weber bought it for 100
dollars in trade, some years ago, to plant cocoanut-trees on it, but
they all died, as there was too much guano. It is a great resort for
birds, turtles, and fish.
GREAT MANUA.
Great Manua rises precipitously 400 feet from the sea like a dome,
and then more gently to a height of 2,500 feet. It is sixteen miles
in circumference, and abounds in cocoanuts, bread-fruit, bananas,
tarra, sweet-potatoes, yams, and all tropical fruits ; also pigs, fowls,
&c. Fresh water is difficult to obtain; it is also difficult to land on
the island, as is the case with a very large number of islands in the
Pacific. There are very few islands which have good anchorage. The
Dext island, distant seven miles, is Olosega. It is a narrow ledge of
23
C
rocks rising nearly perpendicularly from the sea on both sides, and is
three miles in length. It has no inhabitants at present.
The next
island is Opa, a small isle close to Olosega and resembling it; it has
but few inhabitants ; vegetation the same as that of Manua. Fifteen
tons cocoanut oil are made in these islands annually. There are
about 500 inhabitants on them. The distance from this group to
Tutuila is about sixty miles, no dangers between. The distance
between Tutuila and Upolo is thirty-six miles, free from all dangers.
From Upolo to Sawii about eight miles, no dangers between. The
natives of this group are no doubt the finest-looking people in the
Pacific (bright copper-colour), and certainly may be classed among
the most moral people in the world; they are all Christians. I shall
now close my limited remarks on this group; and, as I have said
before, when a fair comparison is made between all the islands which
I have mentioned and others, such as the Sandwich Islands, which
certainly contain not more than one-fourth arable land, the rest being
a burnt cinder, the balance is in favour of these islands.
Scarcely a foot of ground upon the whole island of Upolo can be
found that is not capable of yielding, most abundantly, not only the
products above mentioned, but also many other articles of value, such
as medicines and dye-woods. When we add to this island an equal
amount of the same kind of land products on the island of Sawii, and
about one-fourth of the island of Tutuila, which is in valleys, and the
numerous hill-sides ready to be converted into coffee estates, with the
most perfect system of irrigation in the world, from the passing
showers, with a climate and soil unequalled in the tropics; no reefs
nor sunken dangers; plenty of good harbours and the best in the
Pacific; no hurricanes or local diseases; inhabitants the most inoffen-
sive, hospitable, and best-looking Christians on the Pacific—the future
importance of this group will be readily seen.
T
(Signed)
E. WAKEMAN.
។
24
ACTION BY THE NEW ZEALAND GOVERNMENT.
The Government of New Zealand being alive to the great future
value of the Navigators' group, and being desirous of calling the
attention of the English Government to its interests in that quarter,
sent an experienced officer to report upon those islands. That Report
has been forwarded to the Home Government. It is a clear, dispas-
sionate, and convincing document. It is as follows :-
REPORT ON THE NAVIGATORS' ISLANDS.
Custom HOUSE, WELLINGTON, 13th February, 1872.
SIR, I have the honour to state that, in obedience to your instruc-
tions, I left Auckland on the evening of the 30th December last, by
the nail steamer “Nevada," for the Navigators' Islands, and reached
that group at 3 a.m. on the 6th ult. The steamer, without anchor-
ing, stopped off the eastern end of Tutuila, and sent a boat on shore
to land me at Pago-Pago Harbour. It was dark when we left the
steamer, but daylight dawned just as the boat approached the shore
at the native settlement at the head of the harbour. The natives, on
hearing us, turned out in considerable numbers, and rushed into the
water to drag the boat on shore and to assist us in landing. Very
800n afterwards the sun rose, and revealed to us the full beauties of
the tropical scenery by which we were surrounded. Cocoanut palms,
bread-fruit, bananas, oranges, limes, native chestnuts, and other trees
covered the small flat on which the native village stood, and extended
close down to the beach. Dotted about here and there in the shade
of these trees were the natives' houses, and at a little distance in rear
of the village the ground rose rather abruptly towards the high, bush-
covered hills that surrounded the harbour.
I had been led to believe that the language of the natives was very
similar to that of the New Zealanders; and I was disappointed at
finding that, though a dialect of the same Polynesian language, it was
80 different that I was unable to carry on conversation with them.
This was the more perplexing, as the resident missionary, the Rev.
Mr. Powell, to whom I had letters of introduction, was absent, and
had been so for several months. Fortunately, one or two of the
natives spoke a little English, and came to my assistance. They con-
25
veyed me to the house of the chief, Maunga, who welcomed me most
courteously, and requested me to take up my quarters with him. I
at once accepted his offer, hoping that I should soon find some
European settler who would be able to assist me in getting about the
islands. My anxiety on this head was soon relieved by the arrival in
the course of the morning of a white settler of the name of Hunkin,
who, it appears, had boarded the “ Nevada” outside, and had been
urged by Captain Blethen to communicate with me as soon as pos-
sible, with a view of facilitating my movements. Mr. Hunkin
offered to assist me in any way he could, and I gladly availed myself
of his services. He informed me that he had been a settler on the
Navigators' for the last thirty-five years, and had acted as British
Vice-Consul for a considerable part of that time. I am indebted to
him for much of the information I acquired, especially respecting the
natives, with whose customs and traditions he is acknowledged to be
better acquainted than any other European in the group. In the
afternoon I accompanied him to his place at Tafuna, a few miles to
the westward of Pago-Pago, where I stayed for the night, and on
the following day started for Leone, the principal town of Tutuila,
where I was detained for a week waiting for a fair wind to Upolo,
the next island to the westward, on which there is the port of Apia,
where most of the European settlers reside. Early on the 15th
nuary I left Tutuila by a whaleboat, and reached Apia on the fol-
lowing morning. The distance from Tutuila to the eastern end of
Upolo is thirty-six miles, thence to Apia is about twenty miles
farther. The British, American, and German Consuls reside at
Apia, as it is the centre of trade, and altogether the most important
place at present in the whole group. Immediately after my arrival
I placed myself in communication with Mr. Williams, the British
Consul, who showed me every attention in his power, and supplied
me with much valuable information. I called on the American
Consul and on the German Consul, both of whom courteously fur-
nished me with information on various points. Mr. Weber, the
German Consul, is the representative of the large mercantile firm of
Messrs. Goddefroy and Sons, of Hamburg, who for many years past
have had in their hands almost the whole trade of the group. I was
unable to procure exact returns of this trade, but that it must be very
large is shown conclusively by the fact that from ten to twelve large
ships are despatched each year from Apia with full cargoes. These
cargoes, however, are not composed exclusively of local produce.
Messrs. Goddefroy have trading stations in other parts of the Pacific,
and employ small vessels to bring the produce to Apia for shipment.
26
.
Some of the large vessels occasionally leave Apia and fill up for
Europe at ports in the adjacent groups. They have always, through-
out the year, one or two large vessels loading for home, and have four
brigs trading to Sydney, and five or six small vessels of from forty to
140 tons trading regularly between Apia and the Solomon Islands,
Friendly Islands, Savage Islands, Peru Island, and other islands in
the Pacific, where their agents are stationed. The produce brought
by these vessels is beche-le-mer, cocoanut oil, and cobra, which is
shipped direct to Hamburg. Whilst I was at Apia they had five or
six square-rigged vessels lying in port.
I expected to have been able to return from Upolo by one of the
small trading schooners, but found that there was no probability of
one going to Tutuila for a considerable time : I therefore determined
to return by the whaleboat by which I came, and accordingly left
Apia on the evening of the 19th January, reached Ulotongea (at the
eastern end of Upolo) by daylight next morning, and about eleven
o'clock started for Tutuila with a light leading wind, which died away
before we were half way acsoss, and caused us to make a long and
tedious passage. We landed at a harbour called Masefau, on the
northern side of Tutuila, and the following day proceeded to the
small island of Aunu'u, where, by arrangement with Captain Blethen,
I was to wait for the steamer. As I was detained at Aunu’u nine
days, I took the opportunity of paying a second visit to Pago-Pago
Harbour, and had the pleasure of meeting the Rev. Mr. Powell, who
had returned to his station a few days previously. He treated me
with great kindness, and supplied me with much interesting informa-
tion.
The “Nevada" arrived off Aunu'u on the night of the 30th
January, and I returned by her to New Zealand, reaching Auckland
on the 17th inst.
Having referred to the various localities I visited, I now proceed
to give a general description of the whole group, and to remark upon
Buch points as appear to me to be specially interesting.
Samoa is the native name of the Navigators' Islands. The group
is situated in the Pacific Ocean, between the meridians of 169 degrees
24 minutes and 172 degrees 50 minutes west longitude, and between
the parallels of 13 degrees 30 minutes and 14 degrees 30 minutes
Bouth latitude. There are ten inhabited islands extending from Ta’u,
the easternmost, to Sawii, the most western island, viz., Ta'u,
Olosenga, Of'u, Aunu'u, Tutuila, Nuutele, Upolo, Manono, and
Sawii. The native population is from 33,000 to 34,000. The islands
were surveyed by the United States Exploring Expedition in 1839.
.
27
Commodore Wilkes, in his narrative of that expedition, states that
they contain 1,650 square miles, divided as follows, viz. :-
..
Sawii
Upolo
Tutuila
Manono
700 A polima
560 Manua
240 Olosenga
9 Of'u
7
100
24
10
:
The principal islands, it will be seen, are Sawii, Upolo, and
Tutuila. Sawii, which I was unable to visit, is the largest island.
The following description of it is quoted from the work mentioned
above :
“ Sawii is the most western island of the Samoan group, and is
also the largest, being forty miles in length and twenty in breadth.
It is not, however, as populous or as important as several of the others.
It differs from any of the others in its appearance, for its shore is low,
and the ascent thence to the centre is gradual, except where the cones
of a few extinct craters are seen. In the middle of the island a peak
rises, which is almost continually enveloped in the clouds, and is the
highest land in the group. On account of these clouds angles could
not be taken for determining its height accurately, but it certainly
exceeds four thousand feet.
“ Another marked difference between Sawi and the other
large islands is the want of any permanent streams, a circumstano
which may be explained, notwithstanding the frequency of rain, by
the porous nature of the rock (vesicular lava) of which it is chiefly
composed Water, however, gushes out near the shore in copious
springs, and when heavy and continued rains have occurred, streams
are formed in the ravines, but these soon disappear after the rains
have ceased.
u The coral reef attached to this island is interrupted to the south
and west, where the surf beats full upon the rocky shore. There are,
in consequence, but few places where boats can land, and only one
harbour for ships, that of Mataatua : even this is unsafe from No-
vember to February, when the north-westerly gales prevail.
“The soil is fertile, and was composed, in every part of the island
that was visited, of decomposed volcanic rock and vegetable mould.”
Upolo is ten miles to the eastward of Sawü and is next in size. It
is about forty miles long and thirteen broad. It has a main ridge
extending from east to west, broken here and there into sharp peaks
and hummocks. From this main ridge a number of smaller ridges
and broad gradual slopes run down to a low shore, which is encircled
28
by a coral reef, interrupted here and there by channels which form
the entrances to safe and convenient anchorages for small vessels. At
Apia the reef extends across a good-sized bay and forms a safe and
commodious harbour for large ships, which is entered through a deep
and clear channel formed by a break in the reef.
Between Sawii and Upolo are two small islands ; at the south-east
end of. Tutuila there is the small island of Aunu'u, and sixty miles to
the east of this lies Manu'a. The following description of these
islands is taken from an account of the Samoan group, published in
1868, by the Rev. Mr. Powell, in the “Chronicle of the London
Missionary Society":--
“ The first island that comes in sight of voyagers arriving from the
eastward is Ta'u (Ta-'oo), the largest of the three islands that consti-
tute the group which the natives call Manu'a (Ma-noo-a). It is about
six miles long, four and a half broad, and sixteen in circumference,
and contains 100 square miles.
“ About six miles west of Ta'u is the island of Olosenga (O-la-
say-nga). This is a very rocky island, three miles long, five hundred
yards wide, and about fifteen hundred feet high. It contains twenty-
four square miles. It is precipitous on every side,-least so on the
north-east, most on the north and south-west. On the latter side, about
two hundred feet from the shore, rises up a mural precipice twelve
hundred feet high. The principal village is situated, in times of peace,
on the strip of land in front of this precipice. In times of war the
people live on the mountain.
“ About two miles and a half off the eastern point of the island, a
volcanic eruption burst out from the deep ocean in September, 1866.
“Ofu (0-foo), the smallest of the three islands included in the
Manu'an group, is neither so high nor so precipitous as Olosenga. It
is separated from the latter by only a narrow, shallow strait, about a
fourth of a mile wide. A double-pointed crag off its eastern extremity,
together with the precipitous, craggy nature of Olosenga, give to the
neighbourhood a remarkably romantic appearance.
* The population of the Manu’an group is about 1,500.
" Aunu'u-Sixty miles west of Ofu is the island of Tutuila (Too-
too-ee-la). A mile from Tutuila, off its south-east point, is the little
island of Aunu's (Au-noo'oo). This island is about five miles in
circumference. Population, 200.
“ ManonoTwo miles from the western point of Upolo, and
encircled by its reef, is the island of Manono (Ma-no-no). It is
nearly of triangular shape, and less than five miles in circumference.
It contains nine square miles. It has a mountain a few hundred feet
:
29
high, from whose summit can be obtained a splendid view of Upolo
and Sawii. It is itself one entire garden, in looking at which the
eye can scarcely tire.' It has a population of about 1,000. This
island held a very extensive political supremacy over Upolo till the
war of 1847–54, in which she lost supremacy, and was obliged to take
her place on a level with those over whom she formerly exercised
much despotic power.
“Apolima (A-po-lee-ma) is about two miles from Manono. It is a
crater somewhat resembling a horseshoe, while its depth may well
suggest the idea of the hand with the fingers contracted, which is the
meaning of the name. Its highest part is 472 feet above the sea.
The population is about 200."
Tutuila, the easternmost and smallest of the three principal
islands, is thirty-six miles distant from Upolo. It is seventeen miles
long, and its greatest width is five miles. The total native popula-
tion of Tutuila is about 4,000. The land is generally mountainous,
with steep, sharp-edged ridges, rising here and there into lofty peaks,
the highest of which (that of Matafae) is 2,327 feet above the sea,
and forms a prominent landmark for the excellent harbour of Pago-
Pago.
Sawii and Upolo contain the largest extent of flat land,--fully
two-thirds of their area, about 500,000 acres, are fit for cultivation.
Tutuila is more mountainous than Sawi and Upolo : probably not
more than one-third of its area, or about 50,000 acres, would be fit
for cultivation; but it has a great advantage over the neighbouring
islands in the possession of the excellent harbour of Pago-Pago,
described above. The whole group is of volcanic origin. Craters of
extinct volcanoes are seen at various points. Some of the small
islands of the group are composed of a single large crater, rising
abruptly from the sea. The soil on all the islands is exceedingly
rich, and is everywhere covered with dense vegetation, from the
water's edge up to the tops of the mountains. The high mountain
ridges, extending through the middle of the larger islands, attract the
passing clouds, which furnish a copious and never
failing supply of
moisture, and feed the numerous streams of beautiful clear water
that abound in every direction.
The climate is mild and agreeable; the temperature generally
ranges between 70 and 80 degrees, but the heat is greatly subdued by
the breezes that are constantly blowing. Mr. Williams, the British
Consul, kept a meteorological register, for the Board of Trade, from
1860 to 1865, from which I made an abstract of the mean recorded
temperature in every month in the year 1864. (Copy of this abstract
.
30
is appended hereto.) The south-east trades blow steadily from April
to October, being strongest in June and July. From November to
March, westerly winds frequently blow, but not for any length of
time together. A strong gule may generally be looked for some time
in January, but frequently an entire year will pass without a severe
gale. February, as a rule, is fine, with variable winds. March is
usually the worst and most boisterous month in the year, the winds
being still variable, and gales occurring from north to north-west.
Copious rains fall from the beginning of December to March. June
and July are the coolest, and September and October the hottest
months, although it will be seen, from the abstract above referred to,
that there is very little variation in the temperature throughout the
year. Hence the growth of vegetation goes on without check all the
year round. Cotton and Indian corn yield three crops a year. I saw
some of the latter gathered in the middle of January, which had been
sown at the beginning of last October : thus it was planted and the
crop gathered within four months. The taro also comes to maturity
in four months, and is planted continuously all the year round. When
the natives take up the taro they cut off the top, make a hole in the
ground with a stick, into which the top is thrust without the ground
being dug over or in any way prepared. A short time after it is
planted they clean the ground, and mulch between the plants with
grass and leaves, to keep down the weeds. Bananas yield ripe fruit
nine months after planting, --some of the introduced varieties come to
maturity in six months. This fruit attains a great size, especially the
indigenous variety, some of which I measured, and found to be eight
inches long and nine inches in circumference.
Samoa is very rarely visited by the destructive hurricanes which
sweep across most of the other groups in the Pacific. In December,
1840, there was a severe gale, but scarcely what could be called a
hurricane. In April, 1850, a hurricane occurred, when two ships
and a schooner were wrecked at Apia. For twenty years after this
that is, up to 1870—the islands were entirely free from hurricanes ;
but four or five heavy gales occurred during that period. These
hurricanes, when they occur, are often very local; sometimes they
visit one island, leaving the others untouched; for instance, in
January, 1870, a cyclone swept over Tutuila but did not reach the
other islands
The following are the principal productions of the group :-Cocos-
nuts, cotton, native chestnut (inocarpus edulis), candle-nuts, bananas,
mountain plantaine, oranges, lemons, limes, citrons, shaddocks, pine
apples, mangoes, guavas, Malay apples, rose apples, custard apples,
:
............
31
The prepara
pawpaws, tamarinds, bread-fruit, yams, taro, pumpkins, melons,
sweet potatoes, arrowroot, ginger, wild nutmeg, sugar-cane, mandioc
or sweet casava, indigo, coffee, Indian corn, tobacco, chilis, vi (spondias
dulcis), medicinal plants, several trees with very fragrant blossoms
that might be used for the preparation of scents, some that exude
aromatic gum, and others that furnish very handsome and durable
wood, suitable for cabinet-ware and furniture.
There are two cotton plantations on Upolo, of from 200 to 300
acres each, belonging to Messrs. Goddefroy, and several smaller
ones belonging to other Europeans. Both the Sea Island and kidney
cotton grow most luxuriantly, and bear well. When planted in
March, the first crop is ready for picking in July. The first year of
planting there are two crops, one in July and one in September or
October, in succeeding years three crops may be picked.
The chief article of export is cobra, which is the kernel of the
cocoanut cut into small pieces and dried in the sun.
tion of cocoanut oil has been almost entirely given up by the natives,
as they find that they can get a more rapid and certain return for
their labour by the simple process of preparing cobra. The oil is
now expressed from the cobra on its reaching Europe. The trade
mostly in request by the natives is white and printed calicoes (which
are known by the general name of "cloth," and are used by both
sexes as lava-lavas or waist cloths), gay coloured cotton handkerchiefs,
butchers' knives, and American axes.
The knives most approved of
are large heavy ones, of about fourteen or sixteen inches in length,
which the natives use for all purposes. Soap, sewing-cotton, and
small fish-hooks come next. Double-barrel guns, powder, lead, and
shot, are also in great demand just at present. It is alleged that
since the introduction of firearms the loss of life in the native wars is
much less than it used to be formerly, when they fought only with
clubs and spears at close quarters, as the combatants observe great
caution in approaching each other, from fear of the guns, and both
sides commence firing a long way out of range.
The British Consul puts down the European population as
ander :
British subjects
250
Subjects of the United States of America
45
Germans, Spaniards, Portuguese, and others
150
445
This must include the half-castes, for I am satisfied, from inquiries I
made from old residents and others best able to give information on
:
32
this point, that the foreign residents do not reach the number here
given. I believe there are altogether about 250 Europeans on the
group, most of whom are English.
The following statistics of imports, exports, and shipping, for
the last five years, were supplied to me by the British Consul:
Imports.
Value.
Exports.
Year.
Value.
1867
£36,600.
£40,598
1868
37,200.
38,020
1869
35,992 .
32,500
1870
42,800.
25,600
1871
25,000 .
45,000
The imports in 1871 were less than in previous years on account
of the large stocks that were on hand; the increase in exports was
caused by the natives pouring in all the produce they could gather,
for the purpose of purchasing arms and anmunition for a war that
was going on between two of the tribes.
The arrivals of shipping were as under :--
1867.--British .
Foreign
No. of Ships.
26
31
.
1868.--British .
United States of America.
German
Tahitian
34
5
24
2
1869.-British
United States of America.
German
Tahitian
29
3
22
2
Tonnage.
5,991
3,800
9,791
8,038
3,072
3,875
159
15,144
4,402
3,690
4,230
150
12,472
4,940
3,791
7,004
650
16,385
4,856
500
8,696
230
- 14,282
1870.--British
United States of America.
German
Tahitian
32
6
28
4
1871.-British.
United States of America.
German
Tahitian
26
3
36
2
33
In 1871 four ships of war visited Apia, namely, one 'Brivish, one
American, one French, and one Russian.
Referring to the trade of Samoa, Mr. Williams, in his last consular
report to the British Government, states that “The imports are from
the Australian Colonies and Hamburg; the greater part, however,
are of British manufacture. About one-third of the exports are
shipped to the colonies, and go thence to England ; two-thirds, to
Hamburg direct, being shipped by the representative of the German
firm, Messrs. Goddefroy and Sons.
“ In 1858 the business of these islands was in the hands of two
British merchants, one Gerinan house, and one Anerican. In 1870
six British merchants and traders were established in Apia, besides a
number of small agencies ; one German house, with several out-
stations and agencies; and three American houses, with their
agencies."
Large tracts of land are being sold by the natives to the foreign
residents. Upwards of 70,000 acres have already been so disposed
of, principally on Upolo. The price paid has been from four sbillings
to twenty shillings per acre ; but where the land is near the sea shore,
and covered with bread-fruit and cocoanuts, it has fetched as much
as 2 or £3 an acre.
The Samoan natives are a fine, tall, handsome race, of a light-
brown colour. They are docile, truthful, and hospitable, and are
very lively and vivacious. In conversation among themselves, and
in their intercourse with foreigners, they are exceedingly courteous
and polite. They have different styles of salutation, corresponding
with the social rank of the persons addressed : for instance, in ad-
dressing the chiefs or distinguished strangers, they use the expression
Lau-Afio, or “ Your Majesty.” In speaking to chiefs of lower rank,
they address them as Lau-Susu, as we would use the words “ Your
Lordship.” To chiefs of lower degree than those who are thus ad-
dressed, the term Ala-Ala is used ; and to the common people, the
salutation is Omai or San, simply meaning "you have arrived," or
"you are here."
The men only tattoo, and not on their faces, as the New Zealanders
do, but on their bodies, from the waist to the knee, entirely black for
the most part, except where relieved here and there by graceful
stripes and patterns. At a short distance this tattooing gives them
the appearance of having on black knee-breeches. The clothing of
both sexes is a piece of calico or native cloth wound round the waist
and reaching to the knees. Some of the women wear a couple of
coloured cotton handkerchiefs, in the shape of a narrow poncho, over
C
34
their breasts and shoulders, and hanging loosely down to below the
waist. When in the bush, or working in their taro plantations, or
when fishing, they wear a kilt of the long, handsome leaves of the Ti
(Dracoena terminalis). They have a kind of fine mat, plaited of fine
strips of the leaves of a plant called Lau-ie. These mats are orily
used on important occasions, and they esteem them more highly than
any European commodity. Some of them are quite celebrated,
having names that are known all over the group ;-the older they are
the more they are valued. The oldest one known is called Moe-e-fui-
fui, meaning “ the mat that slept among the creepers.” This name
was given to it from the circumstance of its having been hidden
away among the creeping kind of convolvulus that grows on the
shore; it is known to be over 200 years old, as the names of its
owners during that time can be traced down. The best mats are
made at Manu'a. They are the most coveted property a native can
possess, no labour or enterprise being considered too great to secure
them. Both men and women spend a deal of time in dressing their
hair, and frequently apply lime to it, which is laid on in a liquid
state, about the consistency of cream, and has the effect of turning
the hair to a reddish hue. Both men and women frequently wear
flowers in their hair, generally a single blossom of the beautiful
scarlet Hybiscus, which is always found growing near their houses.
Nature has supplied them so bountifully with food, in the shape of
cocoanuts, bread-fruit, bananas, native chestnuts, and other wild
fruits, and the taro yields them an abundant crop with so little
cultivation, that they have no necessity to exert themselves much,
and they are therefore little inclined to industry, and probably will
never be induced to undertake steady labour of any kind. Their
houses are neat, substantial structures, generally circular in shape,
with high-pitched conical roofs, supported in the centre by two or
three stout posts, and open all round, but fitted with narrow mats
made of cocoanut leaves, which are strung together like Venetian
blinds, and can be let down in stormy weather. The Samoans are
very expert in the management of their canoes, of which they have
five different kinds: the A-lia, or large double canoes, some of
which are capable of carrying two hundred men; the T'au-mua-tuang
from thirty to fifty feet long-(these were first made about seventeen
years ago, and are fashioned after the model of our whaleboats);
the Va-alo, or fishing canoes, with outrigger-(these are most beautiful
little craft, and very fast,they look exactly like our modern clipper
ships, and probably furnished the model from which they were de-
signed); then there is the Svatan, outrigger dug-out canoe, capable of
.
.
35
carrying five or six people; and, lastly, the Paopao, a smaller dug-out
canoe for one person.
The natives are all professed Christians. Christianity was first
introduced into Samoa, in August, 1830, by the father of the present
British Consul, the Rev. J. Williams, who landed a number of native
teachers from Tahiti. A few years afterwards, about 1835, five Eng.
lish missionaries, belonging to the London Missionary Society, landed
on the islands, and from that time to the present several congrega-
tional missionaries have been constantly resident on the group.
In
addition to these, there is a Roman Catholic Bishop resident at Apia,
and a number of Catholic priests in various parts of the islands. The
natives for nearly thirty years past, I understand, have annually
contributed considerable sums towards the support of the mission
establishments.
There is no principal chief having authority over the whole group,
although there are three great chiefs having the title of Tui, or King,
viz., Tui-Manua, Tui-A-ana, and Tui-Atua. The first-named is at
Manua and the other two at Upolo. Although holding the high-
sounding title of King, these chiefs really have no more authority
than the Ali, or chiefs of towns, all being controlled by the coun-
cillors of the towns. Formerly there was a Tui Samoa, or King, of
the whole group, similar to the Tui Tonga and Tui Viti (King of
Tonga and King of Fiji), but this has not been the case for probably
hundreds of years. Each town or village has its own chief. In some
cases a number of villages are banded together in a kind of con-
federacy, over which the chief who has the greatest influence exercises
a nominal kind of rule. The principal chiefs are called Alii, next to
whom are the heads of certain families in each village, called Tu-la-fale,
who comprise a very considerable section of the community, and really
exercise more influence than the chiefs. Everything affecting the
interest of the village is debated in council, where the Tu-la-fale sit
with the chief and do most of the speaking. The decisions of the
council become law for the whole village. The system of government
varies in different districts. In some towns the Matuas, or Patriarchs,
exercise considerable authority, whilst in others the Tu-la-fales have
the most influence; this, however, they only possess collectively, not
individually. The natives, having so little to do, spend a great deal
of time in their conncils, where they discuss and regulate all the
affairs of the town or village, down to the most trifling matter. They
are constantly laying down laws for the price of food when sold to
the Europeans, and what shall be paid by Europeans to the natives
they employ as boats' crews. The village council leaves no man, not
36
manner.
even the chief, free to bargain for the disposal of what is his own.
No argument can overcome its decisions, and the only way to remove
these restrictions is for foreigners to abstain altogether from having
any dealings with the natives whilst they endeavour to enforce these
mischievous and absurd laws for regulating prices.
None of the Samoan natives, up to the present time, have been
taken away in labour vessels. They would have the strongest objec-
tion to being removed from their own islands, and would not willingly
engage themselves as labourers. There is, however, on Samoa, a
considerable number of natives from islands near the Line, and from
Niue, or Savage Island, who have been imported to work on the
cotton plantations and about some of the warehouses. I saw a gang
of thirty-five of the Line Islanders hoeing in a cotton field;—they are
darker in colour, and much smaller men than the Samoans. It struck
me that they looked wretchedly dejected and forlorn, and that they
plodded along at their work in a most languid and monotonous
Some were engaged, I was told, for five years, and some for
three years, with pay of from three dollars to five dollars a month. .
They have to labour from six o'clock in the morning to six o'clock in
the evening, with a rest of an hour for breakfast and an hour for
dinner The Niue men that I saw were working about one of the
stores at A pia ;- they were clothed in European costume and had a
lively and cheerful look. Several of them, I was told, after being
sent back to their homes, had engaged themselves for a second term
of servioe and returned to Apia; but I did not hear that this had
been the case with any of the natives from the Line Islands.
Whilst I was at Apia I took the opportunity, through the aid of
Mr. Williams, the British Consul, (who has been thirty-three years
in the islands, and is thoroughly acquainted with the language, man-
ners, and customs of the natives, and has their confidence,) to ascertain
the views, from one of the leading chiefs from each side in the present
quarrel, as to the feelings of the natives with reference to a foreign
power assuming the government of the islands. The most influential
chief of the Manono party, and representing one of the three great
districts into which the island of Upolo is divided, said, “ There is no
country we should like to take over Samoa equal to England. We
know the English are just ; an English protectorate would be sweet."
The principal chief belonging to the Tua Masanga, or section inbabit-
ing the central district of Upolo, in which is the harbour and settle-
ment of Apa, said that “his own feeling and that of his people was,
that they would gladly welcome British rule, but that they did not
want any other power.” He was repeatedly questioned, and his
37
answer was always the same. He was then asked why the natives
preferred the English ? His reply was, that “they knew that the
British would deal justly by them, but other powers would oppress
them.” This conclusion, he said, was formed from the experience of
the oppressive treatment they had already experienced at the hands
of the subjects as well as the vessels of war of other nations. His
opinion was, that the great majority of the natives were anxious for
the British Government to come to Samoa to establish law and good
government. What they would prefer would be to have a council of
chiefs, aided by English officers, to frame and carry out laws, and to
have the occasional presence of an English vessel of war to back up
the authority of the counci).
On Tutuila, Maunga, the chief of Pago-Pago Harbour, told me
that the natives would be glad to see Great Britain take the islands
under her protection. He said they made an application to this
effect through the British Consul to the Queen about twenty-five
years ago ; that they were still of the same mind, and were waiting
for a favourable reply. An answer, I was told, was returned to this
application, to the effect that the British Government was not pre-
pared to take possession of the islands, but that it would not stand
by and see any other power exercise greater authority in them than it
did. The chiefs of Tutuila and of Upolo, I understand, have twice
forwarded requests, through the British Consul, to the Home Govern-
ment to take possession of the islands or establish a protectorate over
them. The foreign residents are exceedingly desirous of seeing some
settled form of government established, and the great majority of them
are in favour of British rule. In an interview I had with the Roman
Catholic Bishop at Apia, he told me that he very much regretted the
present disturbed state of the natives on Upolo, as it stopped all
progress among them.
He would like to see some Government take
possession of the group, and thought that the natives would be glad
to welcome any power that would establish law and order, and put
an end to their fights. He would rather see England or America
than any other foreign power take possession of the islands. He
knew that British rule was just and liberal, and that all religions
would have equal liberty. Any authority that came to the islands
would have to be from some recognised Government, and should be
introduced by a vessel of war. He estimated the population at about
34,000 ;--this was the number set down a few years ago, after
careful inquiry, and he did not think there was much difference now
--the population was about stationary. He had a high opinion of
the Samoans, and considered them docile, truthful, and honest; but
38
the chiefs were exceedingly jealous of each other, which led to
frequent wars.
In the course of conversation with Mr. Weber, the German
Consul, he informed me that he had large claims against the natives,
and that he had been applying to his Government, for several years
past, to get a vessel of war to call. The Prussian Government had at
length acceded to his application, and promised that the “ Nympha”
should visit the islands on her way to China. This vessel is expected
at Apia very shortly. Mr. Weber told ine that he had no intima-
tion whatever that it was the intention of his Goverument to take
possession of or to assume any authority over the islands. On reach-
ing Auckland, on my return from the Navigators', I learned, from a
gentleman just returned from Sydney, that the “Nympha” had
reached that place, and that the captain had stated that he had in-
structions to proceed thence to the Navigators' Islands, where he was
to refit his ship, and to land and exercise his men.
There can be no doubt, I think, that both natives and Europeans
would gladly welcome the establishment of British authority on the
islands, and that it will be a matter of lasting regret to all who are
in any way interested in the extension of commerce and civilisation
among the countless islands of the Pacific, if the Government dis-
regard the wishes of the natives, and refuse to take possession of or to
establish a protectorate over this valuable group. The importance
of securing possession of the harbour of Pago-Pago for a coaling
station for the steamers carrying the New Zealand and Australian
English mails to and from San Francisco, is too obvious to require
comment. The distance from
Pago-Pago to Auckland
1,577 miles.
Vavau, Friendly Islands 380
Levuka, Fiji
630
Tongatabu
475
Tahiti.
1,250
New Caledonia.
1,445
Sydney
2,410
Melbourne
2,864
Honolulu
2,283
From its central and commanding position in respect to the other
groups in the Pacific, Pago-Pago Harbour would further appear to
be admirably suited for a naval depôt, or for a station from
which Her Majesty's cruisers could rapidly reach the different
islands, and thus be able to suppress the abuses of the South
11
)
39
Sea labour traffic. The Government of the United States appear
to be fully sensible of the important position of the Navigators'
Islands, for intelligence has just been brought by the “Nevada
that the United States sloop of war
war “Narragansett," which
vessel was at Honolulu when the “Nevada” left that place, is
under orders to proceed to the Navigators' for the purpose of forming
a naval station at Pago-Pago Harbour. Commerce is rapidly in-
creasing in the Pacific, and trading stations owned by British subjects
are being established in it in various directions. Large numbers of
British vessels are now constantly employed in distributing British
manufactures, and gathering up produce at the various islands for
shipment (generally through the Australian colonies and New
Zealand) to Great Britain. Very large interests are thus rapidly
springing up among the South Sea Islands, and the necessity for
having some station in the Pacific where British authority shall
prevail, and where British justice can be administered, will year by
year become more pressing.
If British authority should be established on Samoa, I believe that
the natives, under proper management, would readily adapt them-
selves to our institutions, and conform to all necessary laws for
maintaining order among themselves. They have already made efforts
to establish laws for the punishment of crime. A simple code was
some time since drawn up by the British Consul, which the natives
approved of, but, owing to dissensions among themselves, it did not
come into operation. Perhaps the most certain indication of their
fitness for civil government, that can be adduced, is the fact that they
have. adopted the plan of levying taxes among themselves for par-
ticular objects. For instance, quite recently the Upolo people fixed
a tax of one dollar a head on adult males, a half dollar on youths,
and a quarter dollar on male children, for the purpose of buying arms
and ammunition for the present war.
· New Zealand, in addition to being the nearest British colony to
the Navigators', is also most favourably situated for communicating
with that group, owing to the prevailing winds for nine months in
the year being favourable for the passage both ways. One or two
vessels are already employed in trading to them, and it is certain that
at no distant date this trade will rapidly increase, as the islands are
capable of yielding sugar, coffee, cotton, and almost every kind of
tropical produce; whilst New Zealand raises in abundance and can
supply, in exchange for these commodities, exactly those articles
which the white settlers on the islands stand niost in need of, such
as flour, butter, cheese, preserved meats, &c., &c.
40
From the particulars given above it will be seen that the Navi-
gators' Islands occupy a most important position in the Pacific; that
they possess two safe and commodious harbours, suitable for the
largest size vessels, which harbours are admirably adapted for stations
from which operations could be rapidly carried out for suppressing
the pernicious and iniquitous labour traffic that is now carried on
among
the South Sea Islands ; that the islands are capable of pro-
ducing almost everything that is grown within the tropics, and that
they are likely to become an important centre for trade; further,
that they are inhabited by a docile and amiable race of natives, who
have the warmest attachment to Great Britain, and earnestly desire
to place themselves under her rule and protection,
On reviewing these conditions, and having regard especially to the
geographical position of New Zealand in relation to the Navigators'
and adjacent groups, and to the fact that a considerable trade is
likely soon to spring up between this colony and those islands, the
conclusion, I think, that must be arrived at is, that it would be
advisable that the New Zealand Government should strongly support
the wishes of the natives, and should urge upon the Imperial Govern-
ment to comply with those wishes, by establishing British protection
and authority over the Islands of Samoa.
I have, &c.,
WILLIAM SPEED.
The Hon. the Commissioner of Customs,
Wellington
Extract from the Meteorological Register kept at the British Consulate
at Apia, in the Navigators' Islands, for the Year 1864.
LOWEST AND HIGHEST TEMPERATURE
DURING THE MONTH.
MONTH.
HIGHEST RECORDED
TEMPERATURE DURING
THE MONTH.
6 o'clock a.m.
4 o'clock p.m.
Lowest.
Highest Lowest.
Highest
January
February
March ...
70
71
70
70
65
65
61
59
75
79
81
76
82
74
74
77
78
April
May
June
July
August
September
October
November
Dovembar
76
77
74
74
78
78
79
78
· 81
82
78
82
84
85
88
85
83
85 at 8 a.m.
86 at 10 a.m.
86 at 8 2. Di.
88 at 4 p.m.
85 at 4 p.m.
83 at 4 p.mil.
82 at 4 p.nu.
84 at 4 p.m.
86 at 8.8.m.
86 at 8 a.m.
84 at 8 a.m.
86 at 4 p.m.
82
四
​61
78
71
84
88
84
79
86
76
78
41
OPINIONS OF WRITERS, THE PRESS, &c.
Writers of reliability, qualified by experience to judge of the
Samoan or Navigators' Islands, speak of their fertility and their
climate in language which, to those unacquainted with the marvellous
beauty of those lovely isles, must sound almost like exaggeration. The
works of the Rev. Dr. Turner and of the Rev. Mr. Williams, the
well-known missionaries who long resided at Samoa, may be referred
to as possessing undoubted authority.
From the many recent references to these islands and the trade of
the Pacific the following are taken almost at random :-
From the London “Daily Telegraph," September 24th, 1872.
After all it would seem that the finest portions of the globe are far from being
explored, and that we are likely to leave plenty of choice to posterity when our
descendants seek “ fresh fields and pastures new.” Nobody, for instance, talks
of the Navigators' Islands ; yet what an earthly Paradise they appear to consti-
tute if the account is true, which a traveller has sent to the “Alta California.'
The correspondent in question writes from Apia, in which he says there are
already, perhaps, sixty European houses. The group contains an area of 2,600
square miles, and the island is not to be surpassed for its beautiful climate,
luxuriant foliage, and richness of soil. The highest ridge rises to an elevation
not exceeding 2,000 feet above the level of the sea, and more than three-fourths
of the extent is suitable for cultivation. The very rocks seem to bring forth
vegetation ; the eye cannot discover anything but the beautiful tropical verdure.
Spices of all kinds are growing spontaneously. The valley abounds with nut-
megs, ginger, guavas, bananas, and wild sugar-cane. In some parts the ground
is covered with pineapples, while the bread-fruit and other trees lend a perfect
and delightful shade to the traveller. Sunrise in this lovely spot is splendid
beyond conception : thousands of birds sing forth the joy of returning day;
everything is filled with life, and Nature seems to have bestowed more than their
share of beauty on the inhabitants, who are gentle and agreeable savages of the
Malay race. The central position of these islands indicates a great destiny in the
future, as a principal emporium of commerce in Polynesia. Is it not plain that,
when the turn of the Pacific comes in the history of civilisation, there will be
among these lovely archipelagos a romance of trade, renewing-let us hope with-
out old crimes the wonders and delights of "the Indies" ?
(Correspondence of the San Francisco News Letter.)
THE NAVIGATORB' ISLANDS, January 7, 1872.
THE NAVIGATORS' AND OTHER POLYNESIAN ISLANDB.-Far away in the South
Pacific, in latitude 15 8. and 171 E. longitude, right in the track of the U.S., N. Z.,
and Australian mail steamers, are these beantiful islands, the land rising 3,400
feet above the sea ; the very summit of the heights clothed in tropical verdure.
D
42
Viewed from the deck of the vessel, the scene realised my foregone ideal of Eden-
so calm, so fresh, so rare. The clouds, peculiar to those regions, rested on the
mountain tops like curtains hiding regions of romance and mysteries to be re-
vealed. Perhaps it was the consciousness that the world to which I was accus-
tomed was not far off-perhaps it was novelty—perhaps the glowing beauty of the
landscape-perhaps all and other ill-defined imaginings combined, that led to
impressing the picture on my mind; whatever it was, it will never be effaced
while I live. The dress of the natives is merely a short covering round the loins.
It is made from the bark of a species of cactus. The men average from five feet
nine to six feet in height, and are well-formed and strong. The women are parti.
cularly good-looking, simple in their manners, and delight to adorn theinselves
with flowers and wreaths. The islands of the Samoa group have seldom been
visited by Europeans, and in consequence the natives are not accustoinod to our
habits and manuers. Upolo stands first among the group in point of fertility.
Its area is about 1025 square miles, which may be divided into three districts,
Western, Midille, and Eastern. The land rises to about 1,800 feet above the level
of the sea.
The soil is of the richest kind, being oomposed mainly of decayod vegetable
niatter. Rain is frequent throughout the year, and small streams flow down the
mountain sides every mile around it, which afford an abundant supply of water at
all times. Upolo is certainly one of the most fertile islands in the Pacific. In
every district are to be found figs, dates, indigo, tamarinds, nutmegs, bread-fruit,
cocoanuts, bananas, limes, pineapples, oranges, cotton, sugar, rice, coffee, &c.
Port Apia is inhabited by about 160 whites, who have chiefly found their way
thither in whaling ships, from which it is easy to conclude they are uot of a class
likely to develop the vast resources of the country. Little progress, therefore,
can reasonably be expected, unless the United States, New Zealand, and Australian
mail line make the port of Pago-Pago a coaling station, of which there is some
probability. The native population is estimated at 36,000. They are exceedingly
friendly and well disposed towards white men, and have on several occasions
sought the protection of England and the United States. These islands may be
looked upon as the garden of the Pacific. As a central Polynesian station Pago-
Pago is not to be surpassed. It is situated at nearly equal distances from the
Society Islands and New Caledonia, about 1,800 miles from Auckland, and a little
more than 3,000 miles from San Francisco, and in close proximity to the Fiji and
Friendly Islands. The Navigators' Islands will certainly one day become distin-
guished as the capabilities of Polynesia develop.
CAPTAIN SIR EVERARD HOME, BART., says the island of Sawii
(Samoan group) is the finest and the most valuable he had seen. It
produces spontaneously the citron, nutmeg, indigo, coffee, and sugar-
cane.
THE TRADE OF THE PACIFIC.—The “ New York Herald” of the
14th Sept. last says:
Our latest news from Australia, vid San Francisco, by the steamer “Olympia,"
is exceedingly interesting. Among the many other items of interest must be
noted our growing trade with the Australian colonies Of the thirty or forty
skips which had sailed from colonial ports within sixty days at least two-thirds
43
were for America. This is a good and hopeful sign. By way of San Francisco,
the growing wealth of the Australian colonies and of the Southern Seas generatly
must find their way vid this country. We notice with some satisfaction the fact
that the Legislature of New South Wales has agreed, by a vote of twenty-nine to
two, to aid a line of steamers to San Francisco.
THE Hon. GAVAN DUFFY, late Prime Minister of the colony of
Victoria, said, during the course of his speech in support of a subsidy
to a steam line to San Francisco via the Navigators' Islands, as re-
ported in the “Melbourne Argus" of the 14th of August last :-
A line of steam packets running through the isles of the Pacific would carry the
wine, beer, and flour of this country to new markets. Not only those products,
but for whatever we manufacture—whatever new industries spring up—there
would be an ever-increasing and sure market in the teeming isles of the Pacific if
ready access to them were provided.
FINDLAY'S PACIFIC DIRECTORY says, at page 550 :-
Pago-Pago Harbour (or Pango-Pango) is one of the most singular in all the
Polynesian Isles. It is the last point at which one would look for a place of
shelter ; the coast near it is peculiarly rugged, and has no appearance of indenta-
tions, and the entrance being narrow, is not easily observed. Its shape has been
likened to a variety of articles—that which it most nearly resembles is a retort.
It is surrounded on all sides by inaccessible mural precipices from 800 to 1,000
feet high. The lower parts of these rocks are bare, but they are clothed above
with luxuriant vegetation. There are two breaks in the precipices, one at the
head of the Harbour, and at Pilot's Cove. The Harbour is easy of access, and its
entrance, about a third of a mile in width, is well marked by the Tower Rock
and Devil's Point.
THE END.
!
LONDON : 1. K. BURT AND CO., PRINTERS, WIRE OPTICS COURT, YLEIET STREET.
WIDTTAR 14
UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN
RUTA DAUN
3 9015 00555 4582
THE UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN
DATE DUE
AUG 31 2003