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33
ORDINARY
BABYLONIAN
SCRIPT
NINEVIT 2
OR
ASSYRIAN
SCRIPT
32
SANT
E
RE
YEY
TERRA-COTTA CYLINDER CONTAINING THE HISTORY OF THE CAP-
TURE OF BABYLON BY CYRUS THE GREAT, KING OF PERSIA.
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
BABYLON AND NINEVEH
Through American Eyes.
BY
SULLIVAN HOLMAN M'COLLESTER,
AUTHOR OF
.
“AFTER-THOUGHTS IN FOREIGN LANDS AND CAPITAL CITIES,"
“ROUND THE GLOBE IN OLD AND NEW PATHS."
ILLUSTRATED,
BOSTON:
UNIVERSALIST PUBLISHING HOUSE.
1892.
BLIC UTTAR
im
PUBLIC
A
AUG 30 1013
DETROIT, MICH.
Reloosed by
DETROIT PIX. LIBRARY,
Copyright, 1892,
BY UNIVERSALIST PUBLISHING HOUSE.
University Press :
JOHN WILSON AND SON, CAMBRIDGE.
PREFACE.
CINCE I read Xenophon's “Anabasis," more than
w forty years ago, I have had an intense desire
to visit the Euphrates and Tigris rivers, and survey
the ruins of ancient cities which once stood near
them. In 1878 I planned to accomplish it, but un-
avoidable circumstances prevented; and in 1886,
after making a second tour through the Holy Land,
I felt certain I should effect my desired object, but
an accident occurred which rendered it impossible.
As I endeavored to learn the best way of reaching
this country, I discovered that the best was regarded
difficult and hazardous. If one should cross the
desert from Damascus, or start from Aleppo, he
would not stand more than one chance in ten of
escaping robbery, and not less than an even chance
of losing his head; or if he should enter the coun-
try from the north and east of the Black Sea, he
257199
PREFACE.
would find it tedious and beset with great risks.
And so in 1888, as I decided to round the globe, I
resolved anew to visit the land of the Great Rivers.
But how I should get to it was an enigma, till I ar-
rived in India and took a British India steamer at
Bombay for the Persian Gulf and the Shat-el-Arab
River, which in fourteen days landed me at Bussorah.
From this point, by river and by horse, I travelled
more than two thousand miles to see the rivers and
ruins of historic places in this oldest, perchance, of
all countries which has been inhabited by man. I
found far more relics and ancient treasures than I
had anticipated. Surely, fresh light is being opened
up here from the depths of antiquity through tablets,
seals, and vast piles of brick, rendering the oldest
things the newest, dispelling the darkness from the
land of Abraham, revealing the language, mighty
deeds, and striking characters of proud Nebuchad-
nezzar and ambitious Assur-bani-pal, and bringing
to view the history of Sargon I., living nearly six
thousand years ago, when mankind was apparently
learning its alphabet and taking its first steps in
civilization.
My aim in this little book has been to take the
reader with me, enabling him to see and feel what
PREFACE.
7
has interested me most profoundly, and what is of
vital importance to the world, - causing the ancient
life to beconie a stimulus to the modern, so that
the latest civilization may give back to the earliest
a richer inheritance than it has received, making
it to blossom like the rose that is full of beauty
and fragrance.
AUTHOR.
CONTENTS.
13
I. FROM THE PERSIAN GULF TO BUSSORAH ..
II. FROM BUSSORAH TO BAGDAD. .......
III. FROM BAGDAD TO BABYLON .......
59
IV. BABYLON AS IT IS AND AS IT WAS .....
V. THE HISTORY OF BABYLON AS REVEALED BY
RECENTLY DISCOVERED TABLETS ....
70
79
VI. BOOKS AND THEIR TEACHINGS ......
VII. FOOTPRINTS OF PROPHETS AND SACRED
CHARACTERS . . . . . . . . . . . .
84
VIII. FROM BABYLON TO KERBELLA, CUNAXA, AND
BAGDAD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
IX. THE SOCIAL, CIVIL, AND RELIGIOUS CONDI-
TION OF BAGDAD .......... 108
X. FROM BAGDAD TO Mosul ........ 115
XI. NINEVEH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144
XII. FROM MOSUL TO BUSSORAH ....... 154
XIII. From BUSSORAH TO UR . . . . . . . . 169
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
PAGE
CYLINDER REPRESENTING THE CAPTURE OF BABYLON
BY CYRUS THE GREAT . . . . . . . . Frontispiece
MOSQUE OF OMAR, BAGDAD . . . . . . . . . . 22
RUINS OF THE PALACE OF NEBUCHADNEZZAR AND THE
HANGING GARDENS . . . . . . . . . . . .
HILLAH, WHERE BABYLON WAS . . . . . . . . .
BIRS-NIMRUD, OR THE TEMPLE OF THE SEVEN SPHERES
AN ASSYRIAN CYLINDER BEARING THE NAME OF HEZE-
KIAH, B.C. 698 . . . . . . . . . . . . . : 70
STONE INSCRIBED WITH THE NAME OF SARGON I., King
OF SIPPIRA (afterwards Babylon, 3800 B.C., the oldest
known inscription) ............. 75
CONTRACT TABLET AND ITS CASE, CONTAINING THE NAME
OF RIM-SIN, B.C. 2300 . . . . . . . . . . . 79
· SCENE FROM THE SUN-GOD TABLET, ABOUT B.C. 900 - 83
VIEW OF MOSUL ACROSS THE TIGRIS, FROM THE SITE OF
NINEVEH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115
THE GOLDEN BRIDGE ............. 134
THE GREAT WINGED LION FROM THE RUINS OF NINEVEH 144
TELL-NIMRUD, THE RUINS OF THE TEMPLE NEAR OLD
BAGDAD ................ 164
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
FROM THE PERSIAN GULF TO BUSSORAH.
W ELL, Mesopotamia is reached after travel-
ling two thirds of the distance round the
globe, and then coming by steamer from Bombay
over the Arabian Sea and up the Persian Gulf to the
Shat-el-Arab River. It is evident that the rivers are
wearing away the mountains and bringing the high-
lands to the sea, from the obstructions that the
steamer has encountered in passing from the gulf to
the river. For hours our noble “ Satara" has been
rolling and twisting to plough her way through the
fresh delta-formation. With the rising of the tide
and the increased force of steam, we are at length
sailing up the river that is formed by the junction of
the Euphrates and the Tigris. We are nearly in the
latitude of New Orleans. Although it is February,
at midday the sun is blistering hot. When fairly in
the river, its width is half a mile and its embankments
very slight. The land stretches off to the east and
west as level as the house-floor. In the distance,
14
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
toward the sunrise, the Persian hills and mountains
tower aloft; and toward the occident, groves of palm-
trees are conspicuous. The steamer is pressing on
at the rate of twelve knots an hour. Close upon the
left the Turks are building a huge fortification out
of mud, that they may be prepared for the Russians,
if they should march down from the north ; or for
the English, if they should sail from the south to
take possession of this land. The Turkish govern-
ment stands in fear of both these nations.
The grass is green as far as the eye can sight.
Here and there are flocks of sheep and herds of
horses and cattle feeding. The water-birds are thick
and flying in all .directions.
Before proceeding far, our steamer halts to send a
telegram to Bussorah, giving information of the ap-
proach of the “ Satara.” I can but have sympathy
for the operator who is stationed in this lonely place.
He ought to have sufficient remuneration so as to
retire from business in the course of five years.
There is no building to be seen save his little office;
surely he must be alone for the most part, and needs
to be possessed of much wisdom and a clear con-
science to have time pass pleasantly.
It is Persia upon the right hand, and Arabia upon
the left; the former was anciently the country of
the Elamites, and the latter that of the Chaldæans.
But what changes have taken place since their day!
No doubt most of the land close by the river which
FROM THE PERSIAN GULF T
15
TO BUSSORAH.
we see has been formed within the last two thou-
sand years; and evidently within a few centuries the
Persian Gulf will be pushed many miles farther south
than it is at present. Revolutions are inevitable.
Why should there not be as great geological changes
going on to-day as in the past?
Now and then we fall in with some small crafts
going up or down the river; those in charge of them
do not appear as though they had enjoyed a high
civilization. Along the shores occasionally we dis-
cover a small settlement whose dwellers are certain
to rush to the embankments to gaze and wonder.
Frequently the children will run to keep pace with
the steamer, hoping that something may be thrown
they plunge into the water to rescue an orange or a
date. Apparently they can all swim like ducks; as
some heavy article is cast out, they will dive into
the current, and nearly always come to the surface
with it.
Five hours after leaving the gulf, anchors are
dropped at Bussorah which is situated eighty miles
up the river. The buildings in sight remind me of
England, giving evidence that English hands have
wrought here as well as nearly everywhere else.
The deep azure is aglow with the parting sunlight.
A messenger is soon on board, informing all passen-
gers that they are in quarantine for twenty-four
hours ; and so there will be no leaving the “ Satara”
16
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
till to-morrow evening. This is news not to be
borne with grace on the part of those intending to
take passage on the steamer which is to receive the
mails from ours, conveying them at once up the
Tigris River. As the “ Blosse Lynch” comes along-
side the “ Satara" and takes the mail, it becomes
plain that we are not stopped here because of the
fear of cholera, from the fact that they take the
mail-matter without hesitancy, even when it has not
been fumigated. It is soon revealed that the cause
of being quarantined is to extract from us buck-
shish. An attempt is made to buy off the restric-
tion, but it is of no avail. There are three clergymen
and several other travellers, besides two hundred
pilgrims bound for Kerbella, who must wait here for
a week, if they cannot take passage on the “Blosse
Lynch.” As soon as the mails are transferred, away
goes the Tigris steamer, and all the would be passen-
gers are left behind. The hearts of disappointed
voyagers do not melt in friendly emotions toward
the pasha of this city and port. But here we still
are under the charge of the kindest officers and on
board of a good ship; but where shall we be to-
morrow night at this time? While in a quandary as
to the ensuing week, a gentleman approaches and in-
vites us to accept of his hospitality, while we shall
be obliged to tarry in Bussorah. Really, this is like
an angel's visit, not in disguise. This lifts the burden
somewhat; still, we can but ask, what will the poor
FROM THE PERSIAN GULF TO BUSSORAH.
17
pilgrims do? They have already learned to endure
hardships, to practise self-denial, and make great
sacrifices for their religion; so they will bear up
under the disappointment better than some others
who have enough and to spare of this world's
goods.
As I go on shore, I find Englishmen and Scotch-
men who are settled here for the purpose of carrying
on trade in dates, hides, and wool. Last year they
shipped from this port five hundred thousand tons of
dates to all parts of the world. It is indeed refresh-
ing to fall in with those in this strange land who
speak the English language. I find a welcome into
a bachelor-home under the supervision of a noble
Scotchman. The rooms are large and airy, with
Persian carpets and tapestries, some of which are a
hundred years old and still very beautiful, whose
colors are brilliant as though dyed but yesterday.
I am soon made to feel, after all, that my delay will
prove a blessing. My Scotch friend has been here
for years with his eyes wide open; and so he has
gathered up much information as regards the coun-
try, which he is pleased to impart without stint or
price. Then he and his friends have several fine
horses well trained to the saddle, which are at my
service whenever I may wish to go into the country.
On the Sabbath the English-speaking people come
together in the morning and evening, and hold a re-
ligious service which seems to be enjoyed by all.
18
1
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
The Gospel news never appears more refreshing than
when received in a pagan land, or when far out at
sea.
I enjoy roaming through the date orchards which
are numerous in this region. The tree itself is ele-
gant in shape, and begins to yield fruit the fourth
year after being planted. It is not a native of this
country, but was brought here from Africa. The
trees are generally planted about twenty feet apart;
and in the course of twenty years they reach the
height of fifty and sixty feet, and their fronded tops
are sure to interlock, affording a perfect shade.
The trunks are very straight and knobby, yet regu-
lar as if shapen by Grecian chisel. As you look
through a grove in a clear day, you are reminded of a
splendid Corinthian temple. A few of the trees are
in blossom, showing, their aspect would be marvel-
lously beautiful were the trees in full bloom. The
white petals and yellow stamens drop upon the
breezes strong, sweet odors. The insects swarm
about them, as if delighted with the colors and the
delicious nectar. The leafage and the fruit are
grown at the top of the tree. It is said that a large
palm frequently produces sixty thousand blossoms,
and yields three hundred pounds of dates in one
season. In strolling through the orchards and along
the canals, we discover many varieties of flowers,
sweet-scented, and charming in shape and fragrance.
The soil and climate are adapted to producing almost
FROM THE PERSIAN GULF TO BUSSORAH.
19
V
any tropical vegetation. Sugar-cane, cotton, and in-
digo would thrive here. In the summer it is likely
to be excessively hot; the mercury often rises one
hundred and twenty degrees Fahrenheit.
The city of Bussorah is situated more than a mile
to the west of the river and connected with it by a
canal. At present it has a population of sixty thou-
sand, but formerly it had more than three hundred
thousand. Passing through it, one is not likely to
see many handsome faces or clean children or at-
tractive dogs, but any quantity of the opposite. The
people are largely Arabs; of course there is always to
be found a sprinkling of Jews in these Oriental cities,
who claim to be descendants of the Captives. The
houses are made of brick and mud. After survey-
ing the whole city, you would be prepared to assert
without reservation that there is not a handsome
building within its precincts. It is fully supplied
with mosques, giving the assurance that the religion
is Mahometan. If the Prophet was industrious,
mending his own sandals and patching his trousers
and cloak, his disciples here are lazy, judging them
from the way they sit, look, and act. Their bazaars
are extensive, but not well-filled, except those deal-
ing in grain. Wheat is often so plentiful that you
will see it decaying in piles and being used for fuel
to boil the tea. Woman is degraded in this city,
as well as in every other where Islamism prevails.
Polygamy, divorce, and concubinage are in full force.
TY
20
.
TA
BABYLON AND NINEVEHY
The boys are schooled so far as to learn to read
the Koran and repeat a few prayers; but the girls
are deprived even of this privilege. The men and
women are nothing but children mentally. There is
no newspaper printed in the city, nor any bookstore
to be found. For obtaining the news the people de-
pend upon the streets and the coffee-houses; the
latter are well patronized with loafers and busybodies.
The tongue plays mischief here, the same as it does
among other races; however, it ought to find enough
to do in learning the Arabic language, for a lifetime
is required to master it. We are not disposed to
think strange of that, since the language has one
thousand terms for “sword,” five hundred for “lion,”
two hundred for “serpent," and eighty for “honey;"
it certainly cannot lack for synonyms.
But the modern does not interest us as the ancient,
and so we hasten outside of the present city a short
distance to some recent excavations where relics have
been found, proving to be the remains of a city;
these consist largely of brick and pottery. A small
number of tablets have been discovered, and so far
as deciphered they imply that here is the site of the
old city, Eridu, which stood on the shore of the Per-
sian Gulf. If this be true, here are antiquities older
than Babylon. Eridu is reported to have been a
religious city, worshipping Ea, the god of the sea.
It was foremost in rank because of its favorable situ-
ation upon the gulf. Thus it has always been that
11
FROM THE PERSIAN GULF TO BUSSORAH.
21
the most flourishing cities have stood by the river,
·lake, or sea. The advantages of the water seem to
be a necessity to a great mart. The new revelations
are showing that three hundred thousand inhabit-
ants made a grand town here. What physical
changes have taken place since it was stirring with
men and women! The rivers have brought down the
mountains and pushed the sea“ eighty miles away,
spreading out countless acres to be inhabited by man
and beast. The Lord appears to work slowly but
surely, accomplishing mightiest results through the
ages. The city that stood here probably was old
before On or Memphis adorned the banks of the
Nile. As the excavations shall be carried on, the full
history of the old town may be opened up, explain-
ing who built it, how the people looked, what they
did, and their manner of living.
Finding these ruins is an unexpected surprise and
a pleasant introduction to the things that have been
buried in the deep grave of the ages. No longer do
I regret being forced into quarantine. Full compen-
sation is being received from the living and the dead.
Our Scotch host is a host in himself, illustrating Chris-
tianity by profession and practice. When the day for
departure comes, it is with regret that I bid the
friends of Bussorah good-by.
1
II.
FROM BUSSORAH TO BAGDAD.
THE “Blosse Lynch" has returned, and is ready
1 for another trip to Bagdad, five hundred and
ten miles as the rivers run, but less than three hun-
dred miles as the crow flies. At mid-afternoon the
anchors are lifted and the side-wheels push us up the
Shat-el-Arab, whose current runs at the rate of five
knots an hour. Its width now is three quarters of a
mile, and its banks but just above the water. Marshes
cover much of the land on both sides ; palm groves
stretch along the western shore; occasionally a wild
hog is spied among the rushes. Perchance the most
interesting sights are to be seen on the steamer; so
I feel the true artist would decide; for there are two
hundred passengers on board, scattered about the
decks in picturesque groups. There are Arabs from
the gulf and Arabs from the desert; Mussulmans
from India; Jews from everywhere; Christians from
Mesopotamia, Great Britain, and America; Moslem
women, closely veiled, sit in small companies, and as
their faces become accidentally exposed, brass rings
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FROM BUSSORAH TO BAGDAD.
chin, lips, and forehead ; the men sit in coteries on
mats and carpets, smoking the caleon and sipping
coffee, scarcely stirring only when they rise to their
devotions which they are certain to perform with
gravity and earnestness. The women apparently pay
no regard to the seasons of prayer. The crew is
composed of Chaldæan Christians from far up the
Tigris; they are burly fellows and very faithful to
duty. The cabin passengers are few in number, but
represent several nationalities and religious types;
but there seems to be but one spirit, and that the
good spirit; so there is perfect concord. The cap-
tain is a royal man, and every way equal to his
responsibilities.
About sunset we arrive at Kurnah, the junction of
the Euphrates and the Tigris. Here we halt for the
night, as the water is high, and as there will be no
moon enabling the pilot to follow the main channel.
This affords us an opportunity to go on shore and
see a portion of the reputed Garden of Eden. As I
step upon Accadian soil, there seems to come a mys-
tic voice, saying that it was not far off that the first
human cradle was rocked: and surely it continues
to rock, judging from the number of children that
flock out of the little brick and mud homes. Most
of them, I judge, would have fair faces if the dirt
should be removed. The dogs are more numer-
ous than the little folk; still, they cannot be kin, un-
less they have greatly degenerated, to Ulysses' dog
24
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
1
T
Argus, of which Homer so pathetically sings. This
is an inferior Arabic village; its people do not really
live, but simply stay. Close by this little settlement
are piles of debris, or dunes of deposit from the
rivers; still, as we inspect the waste, we discover
great quantities of broken pottery and brick. Tradi-
tion and discovered tablets inform us that the old
city of Erech stood here, whose god was Ana, mean-
ing the sky. As the deep azure smiled upon them
so propitiously, its dwellers felt it must be a god, and
so they worshipped it. The name inscribed upon the
oldest excavated brick is Unuk, which is the same as
Enoch, the name of the first city mentioned in the
Bible, which was built by Cain. Looking off between
the Great Rivers, I see naught but one far-reaching
plain containing a solitary acacia which appears as
though innumerable hands had been thrust into it for
fruit or for a sprig to keep for a memorial. Fascina-
tion has a mighty power, and so I find my hand pluck-
ing a keepsake. The people of the country are wont
to speak of this spot, or land, as the Garden of Eden.
If that be true, striking changes have taken place
since Adam walked among leafy bowers and Eve ate
of the tree of knowledge. However, the soil is rich
enough to make it the fairest garden. Sow this land
to wheat, or plant it out to orchards, and it would
produce luxuriantly. Some of it is reported to have
yielded three-hundred-fold within the last few years.
Twilight strangely lingers, affording us all the time
FROM BUSSORAH TO BAGDAD.
25
possible for this hazy region. As the earth gives up
her hidden things, it may be decided positively where
the Garden of Eden was; but it is an enigma now.
So all have found it who have faithfully followed
Moses, or any other religious leader. '
On returning to the steamer the stars twinkle
sharply, showing that there are intersecting currents
of air a mile or two miles above us. In the occident
such a bright ethereal display would be pronounced
an indication of a storm.
On repairing to my state-room I am led in thought
from the past hour's experience to the lands which
have claimed Paradise to have been within their
borders. Thus, it has been with Palestine, Syria,
America, Persia, the Delta of the Indus, Cashmere,
the Canary Islands, the Alps, and the Himalaya
Mountains. Then scholars have differed as widely
in regard to its original state as they have as' to its
locality. The prevailing opinion has been that it was
one of innocence and perfect bliss; so the Aryans
and Semites regarded it. In India they believed
that the earth would continue to exist four millions
of years; these they divided into epochs, — the first
consisting of an age of perfection; the second would
be one of sacrifice; the next would show signs of
decline; and the last would terininate in total ex-
tinguishment. The Greeks had their successive ages
of gold, silver, brass, and iron. The Persians cher-
ished nearly the same idea, but differently expressed.
26
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
The world with them was to last twelve thousand
years, and to be divided into four equal periods, the
first of which was to be pure; in the second evil
would appear and continue through the rest, destroy-
ing all good. According to these conceptions the
universe of light is to be turned into darkness. Evil
is not a matter of choice, but a decree of fate, and
ultimately mightier than good. Now, if Moses does
not assign a specific place to Paradise, he breathes
into his narrative an entirely different spirit, declaring
that right is stronger than the wrong, that goodness
will triumph over evil.
All the traditions of Paradise introduce a myste-
rious tree. In several countries the religious teach-
ers have decided upon the precise species. In India
it is the Kalpanksham, whose fruit yields immortality.
In Persia it is the Hom. In Arabia it is the Tuba.
In Greece it is the Lotus. The most ancient name
of Babylon signifies “ the place of the Tree of Life.”
I am informed that on the coffins of enamelled clay
found in this land often appears a representation of
the tree of life as an emblem of immortality. The
fall of man is also pictured in all these old religions.
Yeina, the first man, according to Aryan tradition,
passed his life in a state of perfect bliss till he com-
mitted sin through the enticing of the serpent, and
thus brought death upon himself and all the world.
There is one interesting fact growing out of these
varied theories, be they rude or mythical, which
FROM BUSSORAH TO BAGDAD.
27
L
plainly shows that man is a religious being, and
longs to live forever; that he has ideas of things
fairer than any seen upon the earth; that in certain
moods he catches glimpses of a blessed beyond.
As the dawning begins to throw sprays of light
up the eastern sky and drop sheaves of brightness
over the land, our engine commences to puff and
strain, and so up the river we move. Our steamer
is flat-bottomed, drawing but a few feet of water. In
spite of a current which is running at the rate of five
miles an hour, the steamer is making fifteen in the
same time. The stars are dimming fast, and soon
the great sun is lifted above the horizon, flooding
the whole earth with radiance. Though it is the
winter season, yet no frost whitens the surface of the
ground. Seldom the cold pinches to freezing here.
Would that I was an adept in ornithology, and
then I could decide by the motion the kind of birds
which are rising from the water and flying overhead.
It is amusing to see how differently they travel
through the air. The geese and cranes move in fig-
ured flights. The ducks, as they mount, apparently
grow long and their wings take on the shape of
hooks. The kingfisher darts by like an arrow. The
skylarks rise and fall perpendicularly as they sing.
The swallows are sweeping close to the surface of the
river and the ground. Crows swagger along the
shore, and flop their wings as they fly. From neces-
sity, the winged creatures here must be water and
ground birds.
28
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
TT
The sun is not more than two hours high when the
captain informs us that we are approaching the tomb
of Ezra. This stands upon the left bank, on a rise
of ground. It is somewhat spacious, but not lofty,
made of brick throughout, and painted blue and red.
It presents the aspect of being well cared for. To
the Jews it is a sacred memorial, and visited by
thousands every year. We may naturally ask, Why
should the tomb of the Prophet have been built in
such a lonely spot? We must keep in mind the fact
that this was once a country of advanced civilization;
that along the Tigris stood thriving cities. The pres-
ent condition is altogether unlike the past. Once it
was as thickly populated as France or England is
to-day. The Tigris is one of the most notable rivers;
the Scriptures speak of it as the second great river.
The Prophet Daniel saw some of his visions upon its
banks; Xenophon retreated along its tortuous course;
Alexander crossed its current at different points; on
its embankment Heraclius defeated the fifty thousand
golden speārs of Chosroes. It is plain that we can-
not judge of the past from present indications.
However, we can, but ask, Why should it be so
desolate now? Can barbarism supplant civilization ?
Clearly it has done so, judging from what is visible
about us. Surely moral darkness here broods over
buried culture. This fact is not confined to Mesopo-
tamia, but applies as well to China, India, Egypt,
Palestine, Greece, and other lands. It is strange
that a race should struggle hard to reach a sublime
FROM BUSSORAH TO BAGDAD.
29
2
height, and then descend into the abyss of depravity
or annihilation.
In musing, another question forces itself upon us,
which is, if this were the pristine home of the human
family, did the members advance from savagery to
civil polity, or were they fully developed to start
with? The history of a people always begins with
them in an advanced state. Thus the Bible treats
of the Hebrews, Herodotus of the Greeks, and Livy
of the Romans. This at first would seem to conflict
with the doctrine of evolution; still, the apparent
discrepancy may be accounted for on the ground
that an individual in writing his autobiography, or a
nation in recording its history, seldom portrays the
inferior things, but dwells elaborately upon the good
qualities and noble deeds. Possibly for this reason
the babyhood of the race has never been written.
The present inhabitants of this region no doubt
have a diversity of blood coursing their veins.
Could it be traced, I imagine it would savor of the
Medes and Persians, the Assyrians and Semites, the
Babylonians and Accadians. Certainly, if the he-
roes of these old races could return to the earth
they would not be likely to find much satisfaction
in the present state of affairs.
Every few miles we see Bedouin encampments of
the rudest kind. The huts are made of reeds and
camel-hair cloth, looking as though they had not
come to stay. The grass is growing green in patches.
30
BABYLON AND NINEVEH,
Occasionally I discover small fields of wheat and
barley. The people have no inducement to raise
any more than enough to support themselves and
pay their revenue. The State demands one third of
the crops grown on government land, and one fifth
of those grown on private ground. This is exorbi-
tant taxation. Their flocks of sheep, and herds of
cattle and horses which we see grazing about the
settlements, are all heavily taxed. They cannot re-
fuse to pay their tributes, for they are exacted at the
point of the bayonet. These Bedouins seem to be
dreamy barbarians and strange children of the sun,
They eat flesh but rarely. They like to rove about
the desert, delighting in the white camel and the fleet
steed. They fight for defence or from necessity.
They delight in sending their children, the descend-
ants of their Prophet, into the desert wilds to be
made heroes. Nearly the whole of the land on
either side of the river might be readily brought into
a high state of cultivation, if Western farmers were
here to till the soil. Now and then are to be seen
patches of white earth where the saltpetre arrests
vegetation, but modern science would utilize this, if
it had a chance to forward the growth of trees and
corn.
The banks become higher as we advance. The
river zigzags strangely for one which is so swift. It
is singular that so little use should be made of this
grand river. It is now nearly five days since we left
2
FROM BUSSORAH TO BAGDAD.
.
31
II
Bussorah. We have passed only one small steamer,
and perhaps a score of buggalows of no great size.
I have noticed a few bellums and a half-dozen of
kufas. The last have interested me very much from
the fact that they resemble so much the picture of
Diogenes tub, in which he is said to have lived.
They are really large baskets about three feet deep
and eight or ten feet in diameter, coated with bitu-
men. They will carry fifteen or twenty men, and are
driven by a single oar, which gives them a circular
motion through the water. This kind of boat has
been used on the river for three thousand years at
least, judging from the bas-reliefs found at Nineveh.
Our steamer halts for a little at the small villages
of Abu Rabba and Esbia to discharge and receive
cargo and exchange the mails. Apparently it is a
great experience to the natives to see a steamer; at
least, all the people are on hand to witness the sights.
Their costumes in style and color are at great vari-
ance. It would seem that the fashion among them is
to be odd, and so they are not attired alike. The
people generally cannot be more than half civilized.
At Jubeileh we find a town of some four thousand
inhabitants; and more than four hundred men, women,
and children are on the embankment to greet us as
the “ Blosse. Lynch” becomes stationary at the mud
wharf. Sour milk is passed round to all who go
on shore, and they wonder that so many should re-
fuse the delicious cordial. The people generally are
LLI
32
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
immense in size. They are composed of Kurds, Per-
sians, Armenians, and Arabs. Very likely many of
them are the descendants of the old Parthians and
Medes. Some of the buildings are made of brick.
The blacksmiths and tinsmiths are hard at work in a
sitting posture, using the middle of the street for their
shops. The hakeems, or native doctors, are moving
about as though they had much to do and were
skilled in the medical art. It is questionable if any
one of them can read his own name, whether printed
or written. They know nothing of setting bones or
performing any surgical operations. They cannot
be much skilled in ophthalmia, for I fall in with many
who are blind, especially in one eye. I am informed
that their favorite remedy for all diseases of the
eye is a copious application of strong tobacco juice.
In the bazaars we see more dates, rice, and wheaten
bread than other articles. These constitute the staple
diet. As we board the steamer, we are forced to the
conclusion that this people do not live much.
On leaving Amarah, which is the southern boun-
dary of the great Pashalic of Bagdad, the Tigris be-
comes very wide, and the banks are ten to fifteen
feet high. Irrigation is carried on by lifting the water
from the river by men and bullocks, running it over
the surface in ditches. Our prospecting from the
deck now appears to be at an end. Early in the
morning, when within five hours' sailing of Bagdad,
we approach the sites of Ctesiphon and Seleucia.
17
Y
1
31
FROM BUSSORAH TO BAGDAD. 33
171
-
Here half a dozen of us leave the vessel to walk
across a neck of land to examine the ruins, while the
steamer is going round the long bend of the river.
It really seems refreshing to step on terra-firina.
The sun is making the day a poem and a picture.
The wind blows fresh and sweet from the west. The
larks are singing their orisons while sailing in the
bright air. The damp soil is stamped thickly with
the tracks of little birds. The land-surface lies
around us in slight hillocks, like the gently rolling
sea. Occasionally we strike a green patch where
grass and flowers are sparkling with nectar-diamonds,
rising fast and high to kiss the sunlight and nod
thankfully for his splendor. In half an hour we are
gazing at the ruins on the east and west sides of the
Tigris. Only dunes of earth are to be seen across
the river, where once stood proud Seleucia, which
waxed strong and beautiful as Babylon waned into
silence and decay. For centuries it was a magnifi-
cent and powerful city. It was made out of brick
from Babylon and largely peopled from that old city.
Its palace, if not of gold, contained an abundance of
precious things. In the course of time a city sprang
up on the opposite side of the Tigris. This grew
speedily into grand and showy proportions. It was
inhabited mostly by Parthians, and here their kings
resided much of the time because of the healthfulness
of the climate. The two cities became rivals. Each
was bound to have the ascendency over the other.
34
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
At length Ctesiphon became the victor, and Seleucia
the victim. Soon the latter was stripped of its wealth
and grandeur, while the former greatly enhanced its
magnificence. It built a palace which was the finest
in all Elim. If it were not surrounded by seven
walls of seven different colors, as was Ecbatana, the
capital of Media, it could boast of a more splendid
palace. Its halls were filled with miracles of art in
the way of sculptures, enamels, tapestries, and car-
pets. It became one of the wonders of the world, .
and so continued a splendid structure till, a few years
after the death of Mahomet, the Arabs conquered
the countries east of the Tigris, and marching upon
Ctesiphon, sacked it. How strange that war should
be so cruel and unsparing! Why should it wish to
destroy or even mutilate beautiful works of art?
Thus it was in the fall of this city and has been with
throngs of others. All that is left now of Ctesiphon
are portions of the palace; its façade is quite com-
plete, and the central arch can be viewed in its origi-
nal grandeur. The first is four hundred and fifty
feet long and one hundred high; and the last is one
hundred and six feet in height, a hundred and fifty
deep, and seventy-five feet wide; the height and span
of the arch are said to be unsurpassed. The niches,
cornices, and mouldings declare for taste and genius.
The whole structure is of brick. The ruins stand, as
a lone sentinel with nothing to guard. Flocks of
doves coo about the arch-roof, and nest in its crey-
FROM BUSSORAH TO BAGDAD.
35
ices. Owls and jackals haunt it by night. All that
remains is but a waning dirge of a gorgeous past.
We can stop no longer; and so I pluck a couple of
bricks from the pile, and hurry to the steamer, which
has rounded the bow. Parting, we hear a wailing
over the past and a wondering that it is gone. But
what is gone? Only the outward of that immense
life has perished; the intrinsic, like good seed, has
sprung up into new life, yielding a hundred-fold,
which is scattered to the corners of the earth.
This at present is a dreary land; and were it not for
these glittering shreds and remnants of a stirring age,
there would be little inducement to rough it among
these natives, who are little better than barbarians.
However, as we are bidding farewell to these old
ruins, fancy catches from the walls beautiful pictures
of the past, and munificent adornments from hall and
campus, that memory may henceforth keep them
sacred.
Again we board our steamer, for the last time.
The day is charming; the breeze blows fresh from
the west, laden with sweetest odors as from “ Araby
the blest." The embankments rise in altitude as we
proceed, shutting off distant views from the steamer.
At intervals oxen are turning the windlass to lift the
water from the river, that it may run over the fields,
refreshing the wheat. Occasionally we catch glimpses
of date groves far ahead; and it is a delight to see
trees even in the distance. The current is strong
TI
36
BABYLON AND NINEVEHT
TYT
.
and serpentine, so our progress is not rapid toward
the hoped-for haven. Could we follow a bee-line, in
two hours we should be in port; but high-noon is
gone, and mid-afternoon is upon us; it is refreshing
to see the palm orchards close upon our right. As
the sun is dipping fast to the west, lo! in the distance
we sight the City of the Caliphs apparently embowered
in palm and orange trees. Though our voyage has
not been tedious, nevertheless, it is pleasant to feel
that it is near to an end, and that God's goodness has
attended us all the way, and like the Tigris has over-
flowed its banks to enrich the soil, to throw plenty
into the country, and render hearts glad and grateful.
Just as the last glow of the setting sun falls upon the
city, anchors are dropped, and we are at the head of
steam-navigation on the Tigris. Several steamers are
here resting at anchor, and the bellums are whirling
about, and thickly spotting the river's surface, which
is some six hundred feet wide. The city of Bagdad
stands upon both sides of the Tigris. Seemingly on
the north and east the buildings are embowered in
gardens. Some of the residences along the banks
may be pronounced imposing. The minarets over-
topping the city are numerous, unmistakably pub-
lishing the fact that Mahomet is greatly honored
here. As the sunlight glints tower, dome, grove, and
water, a fairy-like picture is presented. Surely a
glamour of romance broods over it in the present and
all the more from the past, because in imagination
FROM BUSSORAH TO BAGDAD.
37
1
I see it ruled over by so many different nationalities.
The “ Arabian Nights” represent it under many a
fascinating word-picture. The Turkish custom-house
officers have performed punctiliously their duty, hav-
ing inspected nearly every article of the baggage ;
and now permission is granted all passengers to go
on shore. What a commotion there is! It is not
stepping upon wharves, but jumping into bellums
with baggage and all, and so rolling ashore. This is
a lively scene and funny as well ; for many, as they
step from the boat upon the slanting, slippery cause-
way, fall upon all fours, but none seem to avert the
omen as did William the Conqueror, as he fell on
first landing in England, exclaiming at the top of his
voice, “By the splendor of the earth, I have seized Eng-
land with both hands!” Climbing up the steep path,
we are soon in the most populous part of the city,
yet there are but few people to be seen; as twilight
begins, they are wont to hasten home, for no streets
are lighted in the night, no lamps or gas-jets flare
in the houses. The people believe the daylight is
for wakefulness and the night for sleep, and so they
are early to bed and early to rise. It is surprising
how still this city of a hundred thousand inhabitants
is at eight o'clock in the evening. Now and then
you may hear the bark of a dog or the yawl of a cat,
but seldom will be heard the sound of a human voice
through the night.
Bagdad is the chief city on the Tigris; it cannot
38
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
be pronounced handsome only as it is seen at a dis-
tance. It is more Oriental than Cairo or Damascus,
though it has but one sixth the population of the
former, and one half of that of the latter. It has
long been styled “the tower of saints” and “the
dwelling-place of peace.” It is said to have been
founded A. D. 763 by Almansas, the second caliph
of the race of Abbas. There is a tradition that its
present name was derived from a Christian hermit
who early settled here, by the name of Dad; and
having a productive garden which in Arabic is called
Bag, it was therefore named the Garden of Dad, or
Bagdad. Some think that it occupies the site of an
ancient city whose dwellers numbered more than two
millions. There is no lack of room for a vast city.
The Bagdadans are a peculiar people, which is owing,
no doubt, largely to the fact of their being so far in-
land and removed from the most advanced civiliza-
tion. They imagine themselves smarter than they
would if they could try their blades with superiors;
still, as you meet them on the street, they are civil
and fail not to return the salutations when greeted
with "salaam" and "mahabah." You are signally
struck with their habit of loud talking. At first you
might imagine them angered and bound to have
redress; but you soon learn that this is common in
private and public places. From sunrise to sunset
the streets of bazaars are certain to be alive with
men, women, and children. It is difficult to learn
FROM BUSSORAH TO BAGDAD.
39
Y
TY
1
what they are all out for. They do not act as though
they had any special object in view; of course they
trade some, but they cannot much, for they have not
means at their disposal. The bazaars are extensive;
still, none are supplied with a great stock of goods,
but among them all there is the greatest variety. The
Persian carpets, the furs, and the silks are particu-
larly inviting. But the human stock must be of the
inost interest to the stranger, for they are so oddly
attired and so diverse in their habits. The Arabs,
the Turks, the Armenians, the Persians, and Chal-
dæans have peculiarities of their own, and strive, it
would seem, to make them conspicuous. Scarcely
any two fezes, shirts, cloaks, tunics, or trousers have
any resemblance as to style or color. Many of the
men are armed with belt, gun, sword, and dagger, as
if they were expecting to do bloody work; but I
judge they are thus equipped more from fashion
than from an intention to kill. No liquor-shops are
to be seen; still, the coffee-saloons are common and
well patronized by men; no women are allowed in
them. Here the men come not simply for coffee, but
to get the news. It is supposed that those in charge
of them are posted as to what is going on, and as to
what wonderful things have recently taken place; and
while their patrons are sipping the cordial, they are
the sponsors of all good and bad tidings. This is
the principal means of ascertaining what is going on
in the world; for no paper is published in this city
AV
40
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
TY
or country, save a little four-page sheet that is got-
ten out at long intervals, and which but a very few
can read. The schooling on the part of the Ma-
hometans is confined to teaching the boys to read
the Koran, memorize a few prayers, and learn to
compute buckshish. The Armenians, Chaldæans,
and Jews have schools of their own, in which they
accomplish much more for their young.
The buildings are made of brick, brought from the
ruins of Seleucia and Ctesiphon for the most part.
The architecture is not of a high order; the mosques
and tombs display the most taste. The average
home is small, containing but a few compartments.
The basement is likely to be occupied nights by
goats, fowls, and swine; and often the interior of the
house is little more than basement, and in that case
the human and domestic creatures all dwell together
when indoors. The furniture is quite likely to be
scarce. The doestack, or raised brickwork, is most
prominent, which is the bed for the husband; the
rest of the family sleep on the floor. The husband,
on rising, first performs his devotions, and then his
wife furnishes him with his coffee, curry, and chebouk.
While he is partaking of the breakfast, the wife is sup-
posed to be engaged in prayer. After several men
have eaten together, the narghilah is certain to be
passed round, and each is expected to draw one or
more whiffs from the pipe of peace. Tobacco is
grown in this country; it is lighter in color and
wn
FROM BUSSORAH TO BAGDAD.
41
milder in taste than that produced in our land. The
coffee comes from Arabia. It is made by heating
water in a large earthen vessel almost to boiling;
then the coffee is taken from a niche and heated so
as to crackle, but is not burned, and then is put into
a mortar and simply cracked and put into a small
pot which is supplied with water from the large
vessel; after this, it is slowly brought to boiling,
and at this point an article of flavoring is put into
it and the fluid is strained off into little cups, ready
for drinking. This beverage is small in quantity, but
tremendous in effect. Do not these people have any
other exhilarating drink? Yes, a fiery spirit distilled
from dates, and known as arrack, which is used only
among the wealthier classes. During a stay of weeks
here we have seen nothing indicating drunkenness or
the habit of using intoxicants.
From the number of mosques it is evident that the
Bagdadans are religious, and have been ready to lay
out money for the support of their religion. The
poor give freely of their paras and piastres; the rich
of Mexican dollars and napoleons. Their Prophet is
severely reverenced in this city, so much so that it is
said the storks which nest on the Minar minaret are
sure to fall to the ground when flying, if the name of
Allah is spoken within their hearing. However, the
people do not spend much money for pictures, stat-
ues, and parks; still, some of their gardens are beauti-
ful. They prize highly the date and orange trees;
42
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
they usually gather from a thrifty palm from two to
three hundred pounds of dates annually. It is all
the more precious because Mahomet said, “Honor
the palm-tree, for she is your mother."
At this season it is pleasant and healthful residing
here. The sun is tame and kindly, painting enchant-
ing pictures on the morning and evening skies, but
in the summer he is fierce and scathing, driving the
people who are able far to the north, and calling into
the city scorpions and destructive vermin; so this city
is greatly extolled in the winter and emphatically
denounced in the summer.
The natives are fond of the marvellous, and revel in
superstitions; they court the presence of dervishes,
fakirs, and those given to mystic arts. Jugglers,
wizards, charmers, and necromancers thrive here. As
I hear the people talk, it would seem in their estima-
tion, there can be no other city so full of ease and
magnificence as Bagdad; still, they are free to own that
she is nothing what she was. Now she seldom sends
out in the course of a year more than a caravan of one
thousand camels to Aleppo, and a caravan of twelve
hundred camels to Damascus; formerly they were
going to and fro every month. It is true the Eng-
lish and Turkish lines of steamers which make
weekly trips between this city and Bussorah account
somewhat for the decrease of caravans; still, Bagdad
is small compared with what it was in its palmiest
days. Abulfeda, an Arabian historian, describes it
FROM BUSSORAH TO BAGDAD.
43
antud.
then as having an army of one hundred and sixty
thousand men. The Caliph, surrounded by his
court and favorite slaves, resembled a planet amid
a galaxy of stars. Silks and tapestries covered the
walls of the palace. On a tree of gold and silver,
birds were perched and so adjusted as to move
naturally among the branches. The palace floors
were covered with twenty-two thousand carpets, and
gaudy vessels floated on the Tigris. in front of its
splendid veranda.
But through luxuriance and loss of virtue, the city
waned, and the last of the caliphs were weaklings;
and Bagdad became a prey in succession to Persians,
Tartars, and Turks. In its fullest prosperity its popu-
lation has been estimated at two millions. Then it
was the capital of the Empire; but it is now only the
capital of the Pashalic.
Polygamy abounds here, as well as in all realms
where Islamism prevails. The wives on the streets
are not allowed to expose their faces; and in the
homes loud talk is common, and frequently it is
said to be furious, where three or four wives are
pitted against one another, and all enraged at the
husband. This possibly will account for the boisterous
manner of talking on the street. Are the women
satisfied with their social life? As a rule, it is far
otherwise; however, a report is current of an aged
wife's entreating her husband to marry a young
woman, for she thought it would be a great addition
1Y
44
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
to the home, and she would find it pleasant to serve
the new wife in her old age. Such instances are rare,
no doubt.
Friday is the Mahometan Sabbath, and is re-
garded by its votaries as the most fortunate day of
the week, and the one selected above all others as
bridal day. Frequently near the sunset hour we see
funeral processions passing through the streets toward
the cemeteries; their choice is to bury their dead at
the close of the day. When one departs this life,
it creates a great disturbance in the home for days.
A band of women are usually secured to do the loud
mourning; and it is commonly very vociferous, and
is likely to be violent on the way to the grave. The
male kindred only are accustomed to follow the re-
mains to the final resting-place. The mothers, wives,
and sisters must stay at home then, for they are be-
lieved to be inferior by creation and position. At
times epidemic and contagious diseases carry off the
people by thousands.
The sports here consist largely in sitting, talking,
smoking, sipping coffee, and card-playing. They
dote upon their city, as one of ease and magnifi-
cence. With delight they rehearse the history of
their caliphs. Their greatest one was Mahomet,
who came to the Arabs as an angel from heaven to
be their Hero-Prophet, to rule them on earth and
conduct them into Paradise. For twelve centuries
he has been the comptroller of the fifth part of
FROM BUSSORAH TO BAGDAD. 45
the human race; and dusky millions are still re-
peating, “There is no god but God,” and “No
prophet but Mahomet.” He is the supreme
Caliph. Abu-Beker was his immediate successor;
despising the pomp of the world, he accepted with
humility the title of Caliph and Commander of the
Faithful. He was called a Saracen because he was
from the East. In his loyalty and devotion to his re-
ligion and his disciples, he was put to death, and was
succeeded by Omar, whose generals led the hosts of
Islams across the desert to Damascus, capturing that
city, and then passed on to Jerusalem, overpowering
the city of Israel; and then on he pressed to Egypt,
where he gained signal victories. His apparel con-
sisted of a coarse woollen garment with a scimitar
hung from one shoulder, and a bow from the other.
He rode on a red camel, carrying in his sack his
food. Where he halted, he always shared his pro-
visions with those whom he met. In his honor the
mosque of Omar at Jerusalem was founded, and for
twelve centuries it remained in the hands of the
caliphs. He also gained splendid possessions in
Persia, and in Mesopotamia. After his marvellous
career he fell by the dagger of an assassin. Othman
followed him and extended Islamism into Africa,
preparing the way for its introduction into Europe.
He was not suffered to rule long before he perished
by the hand of a headsman. Ali, the son-in-law of
Mahomet, now came to the throne, twenty-four
46
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
years after the death of the Prophet. He was plain
in his attire, but was a poet and scholar. His
reign was not a success. Internal feuds sprang up;
and his people were divided into Sonnetes and
Sheahs, — the former calling themselves orthodox,
holding to the Koran and traditions; the latter
claiming that Ali should have been the successor
of Mahomet. The Islams of Persia and India are
his followers. He too suffered a violent death.
Ommiades is now placed at the head of the Faithful,
and was styled the Caliph of Syria. He pushed his
line of march into Europe with the intention of going
through Germany, down the Danube, and through
Italy; but this calamity was prevented by Charles
Mace, known as the Hammer. He perished by the
sword. Abbas, the uncle of Mahomet, now came
into power. He and his namesakes, the Abbasides,
called in history the Caliphs of Bagdad, ruled from
the eighth to the thirteenth century. The most
famous among these was Haroun-al-Raschid, who
is ; still quoted as the great patron of arts and
letters, and whose court was the most magnificent
the world has ever seen. After the reign of the
Abbasides the fortune of Bagdad was precarious,
being subject to frequent changes from prosperity
to adversity.
Were it not for some weirdness or necromancy,
I can hardly conceive how this city could have
survived so many ups and downs, and still remain
FROM BUSSORAH TO BAGDAD.
47
a place of considerable importance and enterprise.
Its natives must be gifted with a deal of pluck, or
long since it would have been far otherwise. The
passing winds and genial sunlight, as they fan and
warm porcelain minaret and golden-hued dome, tell
how nerve and skill have utilized richest soils and
balmiest skies to produce wealth and health. The
pleasures of the city already experienced -- as I have
met English, French, and Russian consuls; as I have
been warmly welcomed into the mission churches and
schools of the Episcopalians, the French Catholics,
and the Chaldæans; as I have been kindly greeted
in English homes and in a few residences of the
well-to-do natives, — only serve to make me hope that
far better days are in store for the “City of the
Caliphs," "the tower of saints, and dwelling-place
of peace."
III.
FROM BAGDAD TO BABYLON.
TT is a bright soft morning; all is in readiness for
1 an outing of sixty miles. Our party consists
of an aged bishop from Lahore, India, a Captain
Butterworth in charge of a British steamer furnished
the English Consul by Great Britain, and myself.
Here have come to our assistance a dragoman, six
mules, and two muleteers. We are soon on our
little animals, and away we go through the main
street of bazaars on the east side of the Tigris. As
we are passing, how the people stare and the dogs
yelp and slink away! It is plain to be seen that
it is rare for such a party to appear in Bagdad.
The costume of the West is sure to attract attention.
The street is full of strollers who have little to do
but kill time. We soon arrive at the bridge of
boats stretched across the river, some two thousand
feet in length. As we are riding over it, I can
but wonder what the Bagdadans would say if they
should chance to see the Suspension Bridge of
Brooklyn, or the Tay Bridge of Scotland. Leav-
ing the river, we are in the poorest part of the city,
FROM BAGDAD TO BABYLON. 49
i
where the mud-hovels are thick and the children
are beyond counting. The women are veiled, and
so screened from inspection; but we can see what
the men are, repulsive in appearance and dregs of
refuse races. They act as if they would do some-
thing desperate, were it not for an iron rule over
them. We are soon out of the limits of the city
proper, and in the suburb, which is a graveyard.
Here are many sacred shrines; some of them are
visited by pilgrims from far and near. Here a new
tomb has just been built at an ini mense expense ; and
in it but a few weeks since were laid the remains of
a nabob, who was generally despised while living.
He possessed a large fortune, and invested it all in
his sepulchre and the service to guard and keep it
intact. He estimated himself in this life by his
purse; what will the poor fellow now do, divested of
the flesh?
Away from the city of the dead we enter upon
the domain of old Accadia. The surface is like a
gently rolling pasture. Bunches of grass are scat-
tered about. Wild flowers are plentiful. The breezes
come laden with sweetest perfumes, as froin Eden.
The desert-lark, with its tufted crown, is flying around
and singing its happiest song. The palms, shading
the Tower of Saints, fall farther and farther behind
us. Ahead is one extended, treeless country. The
sun falls hot in our faces. The good bishop gives
the signal, “Not too fast.” The donkeys seem bound
4
50
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
(
to measure off the sixty miles as soon as possible.
The master of them is cautious and careful, lest they
may overdo, and so bids us stop now and then. On
every hand there are evidences of former life in the
way of depleted canals and dunes, filled with bits of
pottery. How striking is the contrast of the past
with the present! Now all is a silent waste, with the
exception of here and there a straggling Bedouin,
leading his little flock, or herd, to find herbage for
their subsistence; then it was all astir, - cities were
numerous, and fields were blossoming with the rich-
est harvests. Wheat, sesame, beans, pulse, indigo,
pomegranates, apricots, almonds, dates, and oranges
thrived in this kindly soil and air. All these and
more might be grown to-day abundantly, as of old.
The wealth of the ancient cities was largely derived
from the soil. Is this not equally true of modern
towns?
We are on the great highway from Bagdad to Da-
mascus and Egypt. Still, our road is nothing but a
union of paths suited to the tread of camels, horses,
and donkeys. At present it is much frequented by
pilgrims to Kerbella, the Mecca of the north. We
frequently fall in with long caravans coming or go-
ing. Two hundred thousand Mahometans make
this pilgrimage every year; and why? That they
may look upon the grave of Hussein, the son of Ali
and the grandson of Mahomet, who gave his life for
the sake of the Faithful, and was buried at Kerbella
FROM BAGDAD TO BABYLON.
51
near the Euphrates. Old men and women, mothers
with babes upon their breasts, youths and children,
strong and weak, all hasten on foot or on horse or
camel to this revered mausoleum, perhaps costing
them every cent that they have in the world to ac-
complish the journey. What of this? It satisfies
them, and gives them, according to their religion, fresh
promise of entering Paradise whenever they cross the
Darkling River. Their costumes are of all sorts of
colors and styles. Some are well clothed, and others
scarcely clad at all; but they conduct themselves
with the utmost propriety. No doubt they are made
better by their great self-sacrifice and devotion to the
dead.
At noon we find ourselves in the khan of Mahmou-
deih; this is the hotel of the country and furnished
by the government. It consists of some two acres
of ground fenced in by a heavy brick wall, twenty
feet high. The space within is divided up into com-
partments, and supplied with hitching-posts for the
animals, and raised mud and brick platforms as stop-
ping and resting places for the human kind. So here
we are, occupying the best room of the khan, with
the sun-lit sky for the roofing. The dragoman is
doing his best in spreading his table on the floor. It
is plain that he is anxious to make a good impres-
sion; for if he proves faithful in this journey, then he
is to be employed by us on a longer one. Well, the
canned beef from Chicago, bread baked in an Eng-
TY
52
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
lish oven, sardines from France, dates from Bussorah,
and oranges from Bagdad, all do relish as we eat,
and are pronounced to be of the best quality. We
do not sit, but half lie at the table; when a position
is once assumed, we find it very difficult to take an-
other. Our donkeys, too, are disposing of their din-
ner of peas and chopped straw; they chew as though
their food relished. In the front corners of the khan
are two towers, made perhaps for ornament, and also
for places of lookout; these are about forty feet
high. I climb to the top of one for a prospect, and
naught is to be seen but one wide waste of land,
neglected and forlorn.
A small, rude village clusters about the khan; its
occupants look rough and degraded. Really, they do
not live, but simply wait in this world. Two of the
women are dragging a makeshift of a plough which is
being held by a stout Arab. Though it is winter,
yet what little clothing they have on must have been
intended for the summer. As we are making ready
to advance, four men approach with lockless guns
strapped to their backs. Of course they do not ter-
rify nor display much of the chivalric, as they loiter
about. On departing, the refrain of Solomon comes
pealing across the plain, as I take the last look at
these poor creatures, “Vanity of vanities." Riding
on, the surface becomes more broken and largely
covered with turf. I notice some sheep which are
really fat and handsome. At length we are met by
FROM BAGDAD TO BABYLON.
53
a zaptieh astride his caparisoned horse, who wishes
to make us believe there is danger ahead and no
escape from it unless we employ him as our pro-
tector; but he is not successful in his scare, and we
ride on unmolested. However, we soon discover zap-
tiehs partially ensconced among the ruins of an old
khan. They are armed with rifle and sword, as if
ready for bloody work. They let us alone, and so
do we them. I should as soon fear such fellows as
reputed robbers. Where lands are running to waste,
is not pillage likely to abound? In the spring and
autumn the lower levels about us are submerged by
the overflowing of the Great Rivers. We now meet
a caravan of camels bound for Bagdad. It is curious
to watch them as they swing along, like a ship on the
sea. How soft is their tread and snaky their eye!
Still, what burdens they bear! and how could the
ocean of sand be traversed without them? If ordi-
narily they seem meek and patient, when they drop
upon their knees to have burdens removed, or placed
upon their backs, and roar and neigh, they appear
far from being docile and submissive. You then
feel like standing afar off, exclaiming, “Horrid
creatures!”
Just after a glowing sunset at a distance of thirty
miles from Bagdad, we drive into the khan of Haswa.
This is a ponderous, quadrangular structure, with
towers at the corners and a large gateway through
the front. Several hundred pilgrims, young and old,
54
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
with their horses and camels, have already taken up
lodgings in it for the night. Besides these, the sheep
and cattle grazing in this region are folded in it.
Accordingly, as we enter, we find it a stirring place
in which to tarry for the night. Inside, by the walls
are arched niches eight by five feet, raised some four
feet from the ground. These are for the accommo-
dation of travellers. We are permitted to select any
that we please for our lodging. Our donkeys stand
guard in front of our quarters. Our table is soon
spread; and with the animals, we eat our fill. As I
am preparing my bed and getting ready for rest, I
do not promise myself sweet dreams, as the boister-
ous talk of camel-drivers, donkey-men, tenders of
animals, the braying of donkeys, the neighing of
horses, and the groans of camels reach the ear. But
as the eye turns aslant, peering into the heavens, it
beholds order and concord among gilded worlds; and
the heart seems to say if all is well up there, we
should make it well right here, in spite of jarring
sounds, for these are being overruled by the right.
This thought brings acquiescence to present circum-
stances, and we lie down to rest, thinking of Him who
holds the universe in His hand and guards tenderly
our beloved who are far away; and we fall asleep,
and sweet is the sleep till five o'clock in the morning,
when the greatest uproar and outpouring are taking
place. By the time it is fairly light, the khan is
nearly emptied of its motley mixture. The day-
55
dawning is glorious; fairest pictures drop from the
first touches of the sunlight kissing grass and soil.
According to recent revelations, it was somewhere
in this domain that the old Sabæans, or ancient star-
gazers, dwelt, and arranged the twelve constellations
which compose our present zodiac, dividing time into
weeks, months, and years. Possibly it was from this
place that the wise men came from the far East, fol-
lowing the star that shone so brightly over the Judæan
Child. It is pleasant even to have musings about
those old star-gazers. It is like looking into the lake
to see corals and pearls at the bottom, precious
things, and above theni sporting fish swimming and
vanishing from sight, as do the phantasms and foibles
of life, — mere chips and refuse, to be tossed about
and cast ashore to waste away. Deep soundings are
bringing to light the precious things of the Sabæan
star-worshippers.
After breakfast, rejuvenized by sleep and refresh-
ment, if not on the wing, we are on the backs of the
donkeys, going at the rate of five miles an hour.
Mounds and embankments are constantly in view.
Some of the ancient canals are still used for irriga-
tion. Carriages might be driven nearly all over this
country; at times it might be found difficult to cross
some of the ditches. During the night in places
The donkeys are not at all pleased with the sticky
mud as we fall in with it. Captain Butterworth has
BABYLON AND NINEVEH:
K
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so much compassion for his white donkey that he
dismounts. As he strikes the ground, it is a ques-
tion for a while if he is not fixed to stay, or at least
his boots. A hard struggle is required to break the
affinity; and as he moves on, it is only to find more
mud. He does not advance far before it appears as
though the whole plain is bound to go with him.
The good captain sweats, and is in a quandary, how
he is to go on, or how he is to mount his horse;
for there is neither stick nor stone to be seen, and
no chance to sit down only in the mud. As a last
resort he leans against his animal; standing on one
foot, he removes the nasty debris with his hand from
the other; and then putting it into the stirrup, with la-
borious efforts he does succeed in barely lifting him-
self upon his saddle, and in the course of ten minutes,
is relieved of the great bulk of mud. His compas-
sion for his white animal has greatly subsided, so he
informs us. Do not understand that the bishop and
doctor are crowding their animals at caravan-pace
through this slimy, sticky stuff.
The recent rain is making the grass, where there is
any, beautifully green. As the sun rises higher,
throwing more directly his heat and light upon the
earth, it is surprising how rapidly evaporation takes
place; the whole campaign is like one glimmering,
shimmering surface of water. Soon the thud of the
donkeys prove that the way is fast becoming dry.
Such going makes it most trying to the pilgrims
FROM BAGDAD TO BABYLON.
.
57
bound for Kerbella, especially where their animals
are loaded down with corpses for interment in that
sacred retreat.
At one o'clock we arrive at Mahawil, ready for
tiffin. Here is a small Arabic village; all hands are
out to see the strangers. It certainly cannot cost
them much for clothing, for two thirds of their body
is visible. Small fields of wlieat are to be seen, the
blades showing about two inches. These people
appear to be contented and happy; still, there is a
plaintive strain to the voice, as if the race somewhere
and sometime had endured suffering. They cannot
be very sensible of the beauties of Nature to dwell in
the midst of so much refuse; however, in two or
three windows, or what answers for the same, are
earthen vessels filled with flowers. Surely the desert
does blossom like the rose. The men are mild and
peaceable, a kind of dreamy barbarians. Through
our dragoman we are able to communicate freely
with them, and they are disposed to tell us all they
know. They are able to furnish us with some goats'
milk and sage-bush for preparing our coffee and
cocoa; with these additions as we eat, we are made
to feel that we are faring sumptuously. We chance
to be the only party in the khan. Having rested for
an hour, we are again mounted and anxiously press-
ing on toward our destination. We are now in the
land of Shinar. The canals become thicker and
deeper. Marvellous works have been effected here
YTT
58
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
in the past. It seems more and more strange that
this country should have become so forsaken and
desolate. We frequently start up jackals and wolves.
The descent into some of the canals in our course is
so steep that we are obliged to dismount and lead our
animals into the depths and up the ascent. In these
ravines the robbers have a good chance to commit
their depredations. Frightful stories are afloat of
most cruel attacks and murders in these hiding-
places; but we are well armed and on the alert
continually, pushing forward as fast as we can. At
four o'clock the signal is given, as we rise out of a
depression, “Here is the site of Babylon." Really,
the place of which I have read, dreamed, and longed
to see, is right before us. If travelling is generally a
hardship, nevertheless it pays to see and know.

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THE RUINS OF THE PALACE OF NEBUCHADNEZZAR AND THE HANGING GARDENS.
IV.
BABYLON AS IT IS AND AS IT WAS.
THE day is glaring with sunlight. Since we left
1 Bagdad we have been in the lands of Accad
and Shinar, wandering over the surface between the
Euphrates and Tigris rivers. Now, in the roseate
morning close upon the bank of the Euphrates, with
date groves and willow-trees lining the borders of
the river; with birds singing and butterflies dodging
about; with the eastern azure flecked with gold, sil-
ver, pink, apple-green, and yellow, melting into
grays and the deep blue of the upper heavens ;
with patches of green grass starred with lovely flow-
ers, — with such surroundings I am looking upon the
ruins, perchance, of the oldest city of the world.
This is no other than the site of great Babylon.
Here and there are remnants of the moats, canals,
and walls of the old city. Some of the mounds are
immense. At first sight you would judge most of
them simply masses of loam; but on inspection and
delving a few feet it is discovered that these are col-
lections of brick. It is now fairly settled that the
city was fourteen miles square and surrounded by a
60
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
.
wall sixty miles in length, three hundred feet high,
and a hundred feet broad at the base, and wide
enough on the top for two chariots to race abreast.
At the northern limits we come to an enormous
mound of brick twenty-two hundred feet in circum-
ference and one hundred and forty-one feet high,
consisting of one mass of furnace-burnt brick one
foot square and four inches thick, and each one
stamped with the name of a king. But little has
been done in the way of exploring it; still, enough
to show that it was a citadel made up of temples
and palaces. Let it be wholly unearthed, and strange
things would be revealed, no doubt. The bricks are
cemented together with bitumen and rushes. Owls
are roosting in the nooks; vultures are sailing about
the heights; and jackals and wolves scamper out of
the cellars and openings. Not a human being is
anywhere to be seen save those in our company. It
is a desolate region indeed. Were it not for the rel-
ics we should little think that it had ever been full of
activity and strife.
Now, in going south it is riding into hollows and
over dunes; and in the course of two miles we come
to the Kasr. Here are vast ruins covering over
acres, rising to the height of fifty feet. Where ex-
cavations have been made, arcades of brick are visi-
ble. In one excavation there is a huge statue of a
lion cut from black diorite. The stone itself must
have been brought from afar and fashioned by skilled
BABYLON AS IT IS AND AS IT WAS.
61
hands. The waste is filled with broken pieces of
pearl shells, alabaster, and highly glazed pottery.
The ruins are really grand; what must the com-
pleted structures have been? These are now known
to be the debris of Nebuchadnezzar's palace and the
Hanging Gardens. In 604 B.C. Babylon was little
more than a provincial town. At this date Nabo-
polassar died, and his son Nebuchadnezzar came
upon the throne. He had already distinguished
himself as a great general, a wise statesman, and a
lover of great display. His kingdom at first did not
contain an area equal to that of the Pine Tree State ;
but at the close of his reign it embraced nearly the
whole of the known world. His supreme ambition
seemed to be to gain great wealth, so as to make
Babylon the most magnificent city. Long before
the terminus of his rule, which continued forty-three
years, he had vast resources in his possession, whence
he could draw for the accomplishment of his object.
The clay and bitumen at his feet, the precious stones
of Ceylon, the treasures of India, the cedars of Leba-
non, the marbles of Greece and Italy, the gold of
Africa, the iron of Spain, the tin of England, the
spices of Arabia, and the riches of almost every na-
tion under the sun were his. During his administra-
tion the largest city the world thus far had ever seen
rose into being. The clay dug from the moat was
moulded into brick and piled into gigantic walls and
grandest buildings. His palace, according to the
62
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
record, must have been superb. With arcades for
the foundation it rose aloft in many stories. He had
brought as captives the best artists and architects
from Egypt, Palestine, and Persia to help on his
splendid work. The prevailing shape of his struc-
tures was pyramidal. The only nation which he had
failed to conquer he struck a strategic truce with by
marrying its princess; and so Media let the mighty
man alone. But when his fair queen pined and was
homesick even in his gorgeous palace, and longed for
the hills and mountains of Media, he caused the cele-
brated Hanging Gardens to be lifted up three hundred
feet, occupying with the palace more than six acres of
ground. These were constructed by tiers of arcades,
one above another, in the form of a pyramid support-
ing hills of soil which smiled with flowers, shrubs,
and trees from every clime. Brooks murmured
through the lofty vales, which were supplied with
water from the Euphrates by the screw-pump cen-
turies before Archimedes lifted water from the Nile.
The queen, so fond of Nature and rural scenery, must
have been delighted with this narvellous work. It
deserved to be counted among the seven wonders of
the world. At this time heavy brick quays sup-
ported the Euphrates through the city, which ran
from the northwest to the southeast. Fifty wide
avenues crossing at right angles extended through
the city and through the walls, which made way for
a hundred brazen gates, -- as double ponderous doors
1
BABYLON AS IT IS AND AS IT WAS.
63
were required at each gateway, which were hung
upon bronze posts set in the walls. One of the
streets led over the river on an arched bridge, and
another under it through a tunnel. There were at
this time great squares in the city used as gardens
and farms which produced yearly two and three
crops.
Willows and palms are growing between us and
the river, which is a third of a mile distant. Near
these trees, perhaps, it was that the Captives hung
their harps on the willows and wept for Mount Zion.
We now cross a wide and deep canal to what is
called at present Amram Hill. This is another
mound covering over more space than any we have
seen. Digging through the dirt for a few feet, piles
of brick are discovered. Possibly these are the relics
of the Tower of Babel, or Bel, a description of
which has been found, stating that it was eight stories
high, and each story nearly one hundred feet in alti-
tude, and was crowned with a Cyclopean statue of
gold. An ascending causeway ran round it from
the base to the top. There was a demand for such
a tower in so level a country, as a place of lookout
and watchfulness against approaching enemies. Half
a mile farther southward we come to another pile of
masonry, which is called Jumjuna, and believed to
be palatial ruins. Here we enter a grove of stately
palms and wander through them to the river. Birds
are plentiful, and insects are swarming; flowers are
64
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
crushed at every step of my donkey. The river here
is not carrying nearly the quantity of water it formerly
did, for the reason that half of its volume is turned
from its natural course through an ancient canal run-
ning south of the site of the old city, much to the re-
gret of all interested in Babylon. Signs are on every
hand to indicate that this country was once thickly
peopled; but we have experienced a human dearth
thus far to-day. Still, just now we begin to hear echoes
of voices, and across the river we can see the minarets
and domes overtopping the city of Hillah. We are
soon upon a bridge of boats; it could not have been
patterned after the Niagara or London Bridge. It
has not room for a coach and four, nor even for a
hack and one; still, our horses in single file get on
fairly well in going down and up, and over and up.
As the opposite shore is reached, it does seem as
if all the people of Hillah had come out to welcome
the strangers to their city. Just look at those chil-
dren of the sun, -- Arabs, Jews, Turks, and Coolies,
—- staring, with mouths wide open. Women, attired in
long blue gowns and ragged veils, are hurrying to
and fro with pitchers of water from the Euphrates on
their heads. Can it be that Sarah, Leah, and Re-
bekah were thus apparelled, as they dwelt at Ur and
brought water from the Euphrates? The boys huddle
around and bawl out“ buckshish.” The English spar-
rows are flying about the house-tops and twittering
the same as they do in America. Entering the city of

HILLAH ON THE EUPHRATES, WHERE BABYLON WAS.
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BABYLON AS IT IS AND AS IT WAS.
65
forty thousand inhabitants, we find the houses scat-
tered as though they had been dropped by a whirl-
wind, manifesting not nearly the order that exists in
a settlement of beavers or in a colony of ants; it
presents a dirty, gray, and gloomy appearance. We
wander hither and yon in pursuit of a khan; at length
we secure one, and are thankful to have the clear,
clean sky overhead, dropping upon us the breezy
air. Our dragoman soon serves us to a dinner after
the Eastern style. We have liad scarcely time to
rise from our meal before a dozen Jews, descendants
from the Captives, press about us, offering seals and
tablets for sale; they are exceedingly anxious to sell,
and for exorbitant prices. It is fortunate for us to
meet here E. A. W. Budge, M. A., from the London
Museum, sent out for the purpose of obtaining genuine
tablets and cylinders. He is one of the best scholars
extant in translating the cuneiform writings. He can
tell the genuine from the false at sight. He is pleased
to give us assistance, and so discovers that most of
these relics offered to us are mere pretences, having
been recently manufactured and made to look an-
tique. The dark Jewish eyes snap fire as the Assyrian
scholar exposes their fraudulence, and they depart
grating their teeth and cursing the Londoner.
As the day fades the stars shine out, — the same
stars which the old Sabæans admired and wor-
shipped. Somnus, as soon as it is fairly night,
takes into his keeping the weary travellers, and
66
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
holds them in his embrace till Aurora throws from
the far east the new day. After breakfast we are
on the donkeys again and bound southward still
within the limits of old Babylon. On leaving the
city, we are riding over heaps and into pits. The
earth appears to be full of fragments of pottery.
By and by we are in a palm grove.' The pillared
trunks and fronded tops remind us of Grecian col-
umns and Egyptian temples. Often we meet coun-
try people hastening to Hillah with the products of
their toil. As we greet them with salaam, they fail
not to respond salaarn with added emphasis. The
men are tall and lank; the women are stunted and
old at thirty.
: In an hour and a half's ride from the khan we are
looking upon the grandest ruins of ancient Babylon,
— Birs-Nimrud, or the famous Temple of the Seven
Spheres. Niebuhr says that “other ruins of Baby-
lon are to be seen, but this is one of the grandest
and one of the oldest works in the world.” It is a
vast collection of brick, some two thousand feet in
circuit and two hundred feet in height. Some of the
bricks are vitrified and melted together, supposed
to have been done by piling up wood against them
and then burning it. As we stroll around and over it,
we find a few excavations whence have been taken
wondrous writings, revealing many a surprising fact
concerning titanic structures which once adorned this
place. It formerly belonged to the old city of Bor-

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BIRS-NIMRUD, OR THE TEMPLE or THE SEVEN SPHERES, CALLED
BY THE GREEKS TOWER OF BELUS, WRONGLY CALLED THE
TOWER OF BABEL, ON THE SITE OF BORSIPPA.
nie
BABYLON AS IT IS AND AS IT WAS.
67
sippa, far more ancient than Babylon. It appears
that stately courts led out from a centre, and avenues
extended from these to splendid temples. The tem-
ple on the east was one hundred and thirty-three feet
long and sixty-seven feet wide, having sixteen shrines.
The two principal ones were consecrated to Nebo and
his wife Tasmit. The one on the north was devoted
to Ea and Nastel; its dimensions were one hundred
and forty-two feet by fifty feet. On the south was a
temple dedicated to Anu and Bel; in size it was one
hundred and seventeen feet by fifty feet. Upon the
west was a double temple with wings measuring one
hundred and sixty-six feet by thirty-four feet, and
one hundred and eight by one hundred and six feet.
In the centre of these holy altars rose a temple tower
to the height of three hundred feet, being divided
into seven stages or platforms. The first stage was
three hundred feet square and one hundred feet
high; the second was two hundred and sixty feet
square and sixty feet in height; the third was two
hundred feet square and twenty feet in altitude; the
fourth was one hundred and seventy feet square and
twenty feet high; the fifth was one hundred and
forty feet square and twenty feet high; the sixth
was a hundred and ten feet square and twenty feet
high; and the seventh was eighty feet long and
seventy feet wide and fifty feet in height. This was
dedicated to Merodach, having a golden statue in
a sitting posture. Each story was devoted to the
68
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
worship of some heavenly body and outwardly
stained with that color attributed to the planet by
the Sabæan astronomers. The first story was black
for Saturn; the second, orange for Jupiter; the third,
red for Mars; the fourth, green for Venus; the fifth,
blue for Mercury; the sixth, white for the moon;
and the seventh, yellow for the sun.
This structure was a temple and an observatory,
built in the palmy days of Borsippa. Nebuchadnez-
zar found it in ruins, and restored it to completeness,
and included it within the boundary of his city.
During his reign he made Babylon the great metrop-
olis of the world. He increased its population from
a few thousand to three millions. He proved him-
self more than a Cæsar or a Napoleon. He brought
captives from all the leading cities, that he might use
them as builders and artisans. It is reported that he
was not cruel to his subjects, but was determined,
that they should work for the enrichment and adorn-
ment of his beloved city. Few rulers have ever
accomplished what he did in forty-three years. He
aimed to have all his people educated so far as to do
business properly; they could all read and write, as
evidenced by tablets. He was favored with poets,
astronomers, and other literati; he lived to see his
city greatly honored by the civilized world. To
Babylon Egypt sent for sun-dials and water-clocks;
from it Tyre and Carthage took the weights and
measures which regulated commerce; from it Greece
BABYLON AS IT IS AND AS IT WAS.
69
borrowed her rudiments of art and science; and
from it, perchance, Orpheus received his lyre and
harp.
Babylon was then the London of the world, the
greatest mart for all nations. Thither Egypt sent
her gold and ivory; Arabia, her ambrosial spices;
Ceylon, her rubies and diamonds; India, her pearls
and marbles; China, her tea and porcelains; Persia,
her silks and tapestries; Damascus, her blades and
perfumeries; Tyre, her dyes and shells; Helbon, her
wines and fruits; Greece, her fairest slave-maidens,
for they would command exorbitant prices. Then
the checks and receipts on tablets of the great
banking-house of the Egibi would pass current
everywhere.
Nebuchadnezzar lived to witness all this. The
great man in his pride had come to believe that he
was equal to any emergency, and that his city pos-
sessed inexhaustible treasures. While glorying in
his own strength and permitting his city to revel in
waste and debauchery, he fell a victim to lycanthropy,
which has often been the penalty of despotism; thus
he came to imagine himself a beast, rejecting cloth-
ing and ordinary food and even housing, eating straw
and going on all fours, “proving that whatsoever a
man sows that shall he reap."
THE HISTORY OF BABYLON AS REVEALED BY
RECENTLY DISCOVERED TABLETS.
T CAN but recount myself fortunate in meeting in
+ this country Mr. E. A. W. Budge, M. A., one of
the best Oriental scholars of the age. From him I
learn that Nebuchadnezzar was succeeded by his son,
Evil-Merodach. He was upon the throne less than
three years, when he was assassinated by his sister's
husband, Nergal-sharezar, who seized the throne.
The chief event of his reign of some four years was
the building of a new palace. His son, a mere boy,
was put to death after wearing the crown for four
months. The throne was then usurped by Naboni-
dus, the Belshazzar of the Scriptures. His rule
lasted for seventeen years. He is described as one
given to meditation and retirement; therefore he
kept himself quite close within his own city. During
his reign a new power rose in the East; this was
the empire of Cyrus. Cyrus at length crossed the
Tigris and captured city after city, directing his
course all the while toward Babylon. Nabonidus
at the same time was endeavoring to restore great

國家對於新建立
​PART OF AN ASSYRIAN CYLINDER BEARING THE NAME
OF HEZERIAH, B.C. 608.
THE HISTORY OF BABYLON.
71
Babylon. Besides other works, he dug into the
foundations of the Tower of the Spheres, and found a
cylinder giving the history of Sargon I. and his son
Nimram, dated 3800 B. C.
It is inferred from the records that Nabonidus did
not pay special deference to Merodach and other
gods of his city; and this worked against him, render-
ing him unpopular with many of his subjects. Cyrus
is reported as honoring the deities of the land, and
this fact worked decidedly in his favor; so much so
that he was enabled to march into Babylon, meeting
with no great opposition, supplanting Nabonidus and
placing himself upon the throne. Immediately he
began to repair the palace and the temple of Mero-
dach. He restored the shrines and deities to sur-
rounding cities.
Cyrus was kindly disposed to the Jews, honoring
their prophets; and in due time he encouraged and
assisted all who wished to return to Jerusalem, carry-
ing with them their gold and silver vessels with
which to adorn again their temple. He died 530
B. C., and his son Cambyses came into power. He
soon made a forced expedition into Egypt, and con-
quered it. Though successful in enriching his city
and nation, yet he was not a popular sovereign. He
occupied the throne but eight years. One Gomátes
now seized the crown, feigning to be the son of
Cyrus. He made the State fear him exceedingly;
he slew all who denied his pretended sonship. For
72
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
a long while there was no one bold enough to try
swords with him. At length Darius, the son of
Hystaspes, marched with large forces from Persia
and besieged Babylon. Gomátes felt that his city was
so strongly fortified there could be little danger of
any injury from the attacks of Darius; but the latter,
through stratagem and perseverance, proved himself
more than the equal of Gomátes, and therefore broke
into the city, slew the king, and usurped the throne,
and became the real founder of the Persian Empire.
Six years afterward Babylon again revolted under
an Armenian who professed to be the son of Naboni-
dus. Once more it was besieged and captured by
Darius, whose residence was in Persia. Hereupon he
pulled down the walls; and his son Xerxes continued
the work of destruction by destroying the vast temple
of Bel and carrying off the golden statue of Mero-
dach. After Darius first conquered Babylon up to
the time of the second rebellion, he was very lenient
toward its citizens and kindly disposed to the Jews,
sending to their Mount Zion bullocks, lambs, wheat,
and oil for sacrifices in the temple of Solomon. A
cameo exists with his helmeted profile, engraved
by a Grecian artist, and surrounded by the words,
“To Merodach, his lord, Nebuchadnezzar, the King
of Babylon, has made it for his life.”
No tablets have been discovered giving the history
of Babylon from this period on to the time of Alex-
ander. His name, however, is mentioned as having
THE HISTORY OF BABYLON.
73
captured the city, and having spent much money to
restore the tower of Bel. Still, it was not long before
he marched his forces on to Persia and into India,
gaining great victories. Finally he returned to Baby-
lon, sickened, and died. After his death Seleucus,
one of his generals, became king. He died 281 B. C.,
and his son Antiochus was crowned king. He
reigned for some twenty years and was popular.
Nevertheless, Babylon was declining fast; its glory
was fading away. It was stripped of its gods, weigh-
ing in gold four hundred thousand pounds. The
forum and the fairest parts of the city were fired;
the bricks were carried away to build Seleucia and
Ctesiphon on the banks of the Tigris River. Baby-
lon was utterly fallen; its glory and greatness were
gone forever! It was reduced to enormous piles and
mounds, and thus it remains, with no captives to
mourn over it. Its only refrain comes from the bark
of the jackal, the howl of the wolf, the growl of the
bear, the hoot of the owl, the whistle of the hawk,
and the scream of the eagle.
It appears that the account given by Herodotus
of the capture of Babylon has been assigned to Cy-
rus, whereas it should have been applied to Darius.
The mistake no doubt is not due to the historian, but
to translators. It was probably in the reign of this
Darius that Daniel was cast into the lions' den.
The history of Babylon previous to "the reign of
Nebuchadnezzar can be traced back by the cuneiform
74
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
writings to Sargon I., 3800 B.C. A curious legend
has been found of this king, describing him as born
in a city on the banks of the Euphrates; it states
that his mother conceived him in secret and brought
him forth in a private place; that she put him into
an ark of rushes made tight with pitch; that he was
cast upon the river in his little ark; that he was
rescued by one Akki, who brought him up to his
trade; and that from this position the goddess Istar
made him king. Sargon I. was a mighty warrior,
and in chariots of bronze passed through inimical
countries.
Naram-Sin was his son and successor, achieving
many victories and adding much wealth to his king-
dom. He was followed by Ur-Bagas, who proved
himself a powerful ruler. He instituted many im-
provements throughout the country. He built a
grand temple in the city of Ur to the moon-god
Sin ; and in Larsa he dedicated a temple to the sun-
god. In other places he reared fair buildings and
grand temples. He was succeeded by Dungi, who
built a tower at Ur and a temple at Erech. In the
British Museum there are images of this king in
bronze and marble.
Now for a long period Babylonia was governed by
kings from Karrak. About 2100 B. C. Hammurabi, a
powerful man, came to the throne. He is spoken of
as a devout and broad-minded man. He repaired
the temples of all the gods in his realm; he dug

STONE INSCRIBED WITH THE NAME OF SARGON I.,
KING OF SIPPIRA.
THE HISTORY OF BABYLON.
75
numerous canals and improved his country in many
ways. It was no doubt under his administration
that Abraham went out from “Ur of the Chaldees."
Some 1700 B. C. a Kassite dynasty began to rule in
Babylon, and held the authority for a long period.
Not far from 1300 B. C. the kingdom of Assyria be-
came strong and enterprising. During the reign
of Tiglath-Pileser I., its armies conquered all the
countries west of the Tigris River through to the
Mediterranean Sea. Thus kings continued to come
to the throne of Babylon and to leave it, down to the
time of Nebuchadnezzar.
From the revelations of tablets it becomes plain
that Babylonia is one of the oldest countries and
Babylon one of the oldest cities. The fact that
their people in the time of Sargon I. were advanced
in civilization, proves that they must have been mak-
ing history for centuries previous to 3800 B.C. The
earth is old, and the human race reaches far into
remote ages.
. It is almost passing strange that a great city,
nearly lost sight of, should in these modern days
be brought quite distinctly to view, and not only
this city, but its forerunners and others in some way
linked to it. Now, Sargon I. exists, not only in the
cloudland of myths, but in actual history, showing
him to be the founder of a great empire. I have
seen in the British Museum an inscribed egg of mar-
ble, which he dedicated to the sun-god of Sippara,
76
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
and the seal of his librarian, which is in Paris. The
tablets from the ruins of Nineveh, which were secured
by Assur-bani-pal from Accad and Erech, make fre-
quent mention of him. He is spoken of as a patron
of learning. He is represented as making his first
martial expedition into Elam with signal success.
Afterward he turned his course to the west, advanc-
ing as far as Cyprus; and there he erected images
of himself and carried away immense spoils to
Babylonia.
The earliest Chaldæan monuments yet discovered
were found at Tel-loh in southern Chaldæa. Some
of these go back nearly to the beginning of cunei-
form writing, and were made on cylindrical stones
of diorite, which are exceedingly hard, and were
brought, as the inscriptions assert, from Magána,
near Mount Sinai; so it would seem that this south-
land was known to Sargon I., from the fact that ref-
erence is made to him on these stones.
I have seen in the Boulak Museum at Cairo a sit-
ting figure of Khephrên cut from the same kind of
stone, which is said to have come from Magána.
This is a singular coincidence, showing, at least,
that these different nations may have quarried dio-
rite at the same time in the same locality. Their
works of art bear a resemblance, however; the
Egyptian is more finished.
The monuments of Tel-loh carry us back to a very
early date, to a period before the Semites left their
THE HISTORY OF BABYLON.
77
native country, which was by the Euphrates south of
Ur. In the course of events they invaded Accadia
and overpowered its people, but preserved their style
of writing; so their history comes to us on the
cuneiform tablets. From these we learn how they
became successful warriors and achieved the sov-
ereignty of Babylonia. They preserved their own
language in common speech, — in fact, made it the
spoken language of the country, — throwing the
Accadian into the background, so that it became
a dead language. They accepted largely the gods
of this new possession.
This enables us to understand why, as they emi-
grated to Syria, Palestine, and other countries, they
should attach the names of the Chaldæan deities to
men and places. Accordingly they fixed the name of
Nebo to the mountain of the Moabites where Moses
caught sight of the Promised Land and then passed
into the higher light. So Sinai was named after the
moon-god Sin. As the sweet singer of Israel came
into high repute, they desired to honor him with a
significant appellation, so they gave to him the name
of their god at Yahveh, which was Dodo, and in
usage was changed to David. In a similar manner
the name of Solomon was derived from their god of
peace. These tablets are explaining and rendering
beautiful many things in Bible history which have
been hitherto imperfectly understood.
These stones are proving that antediluvians and
ton es
a
rians
78
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
postdiluvians dwelt where now are found the ruins
of Sippara, Borsippa, Kufa, Eridu, Erech, and Accad.
The new light coming to us enables us to see what
was darkness. As the tree is cut down and burned,
it gives out the sunshine which was stored up in it
ages before; so these Babylonian piles and mounds,
as they are upturned and their recesses explored,
throw upon the world mental splendors which have
long been buried.
Is it not everlasting life to live in mental and spir-
itual light? Ask Moses, Paul, Newton, Franklin,
and Humboldt. It is thrilling to walk where so
many million feet have trod, and soul-stirring to
have minds long since separated from the flesh
speak to us in prophecies, songs, and prayers com-
ing from the depths of the soul. Eternal sameness
would untune the heart for the music of heaven.
Thus these explorations and discovered history are
feeding minds with new inspiration and calling forth
new resolves to seek diligently for the truth in every
possible path, and to rest satisfied with nothing short
of the whole truth.



VI28
CONTRACT TABLET AND ITS CASE, THE FORMER SLIDING INTO THE
LATTER, SO GIVING DOUBLE ASSURANCE OF PRESERVING THE
WRITING, CONTAINING THE NAME OF RIM-SIN, B.C. 2300.
VI.
BOOKS AND THEIR TEACHINGS.
THE books of the Chaldæans were composed of
1 clay tablets and cylinders, varying in length
from one inch to a foot, and from half an inch to two
inches in thickness. Matter of special importance
was first inscribed on a tablet; and then, re-coated
with clay, the same matter was duplicated, so that if
the surface should become defaced, the exterior coat-
ing could all be removed and have the true text
remaining
The tablets were constructed out of the finest clay,
kneaded and pressed into shape. Usually inscrip-
tions were made upon both sides of the tablet, then
holes were pricked through them, and they were
baked either in the kiln or in the hot sunlight. The
holes allowed the steam to escape while baking. In
some cases it is evident from relics of machinery
found that the clay was ground, making it as fine as
that used for the best pottery. It appears from the
writing as if the letters were first engraved on wood
or on some hard substance, and then pressed upon
the soft clay.
BABYLON AND NINEVEHTT
.
1
It is recorded that when the Accadians immigrated
into the Euphrates Valley, they were in possession of
a system of pictorial writing which they had used on
papyrus; and as they came to use clay instead, it
developed into the cuneiform. These tablets were
preserved in carefully constructed libraries and brick
vaults. Seventy tablets have been found constitut-
ing a treatise on astronomy and astrology. These
were compiled in the time of Sargon I.
The Chaldæan astronomers divided the year into
twelve months, and each month into thirty days,
adding an extra month every six years. The week
consisted of seven days; and the seventh was a rest-
day. Each day was regarded fortunate or unfortunate,
just as it was fated to be.
Geology was understood certainly so far as cata-
loguing the different kinds of stone and soil in the
country. In geography the names of the various
countries and the description of the land are given.
In natural history the animals, insects, and birds are
described.
The transaction tablets and cylinders are the most
numerous. Land rents, building contracts, historical
documents, promissory notes, bank accounts, sales of
houses, marriage grants, sales of slaves, and really all
kinds of traffic were required to be recorded. It can
readily be seen how this would multiply the number
of books.
Tablets have been found giving the tradition of the
ivl
BOOKS AND THEIR TEACHINGS.
81
Creation, of Paradise, and of the Deluge. These
descriptions do wear a semblance to those given by
Moses. Chaldæan registers were kept of celestial ob-
servations from 2234 B. C. to the capture of Babylon
by Alexander. Accounts are given how the people
first cremated their dead, but afterward buried them.
A sarcophagus has been exhumed from the ruins of
Babylon, and many coffins have been discovered in
the wastes of other Chaldæan cities.
One tablet speaks of Nimrud as Belus, who built
cities on the banks of the Tigris and the Euphrates.
The satrap under Darius I., who resided in Babylon,
is represented as having a daily revenue of two bushels
of coined silver. His stables are reported as con-
taining seventeen thousand steeds, and that four
cities yielded scarcely proceeds sufficient to support
his dogs.
Whenever a king built a palace, it was customary
to put an inscribed cylinder into the foundation of
each corner. Many such have been found contain-
ing important records; one had thirteen hundred
lines on it, and is now in the British Museum. It is
estimated that some sixty thousand cuneiform tablets
and cylinders have already been unearthed. Who
can guess what the number will be when all the
ruins of this region shall have been upturned and
thoroughly explored?
It is plain that the Babylonians were a very relig-
ious people, from the number of their gods and from
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
their devout prayers and hymns. A god or goddess
presided over every day of the week and year. At
the entrance of palace and temple were placed
sphinxes with the face and head of a man, the body
and tail of a horse or lion, the wings of an eagle, and
the feet of a bull. These represented sentinels which
guarded kings and priests.
Their religious belief was the outgrowth of Shaman-
ism and Sabæanism. The former taught that all things
are governed by good and evil spirits, the evil holding
the supremacy; the latter consisted in worshipping
the sun, inoon, and stars. Out of these came a mix-
ture of divination and astrology which have dissemi-
nated themselves into most of the religions of the
world. The Babylonian believed in the immortality
of the soul, and represented one at death as entering
the “land of the silver sky."
We learn that the chief occupation of the kings
and their officials was war. Their soldiers were armed
with swords, bows, arrows, and staffs. They used
horses and chariots in battles which were little more
than skirmishes that happened without any special
planning. Upon gaining the victory they were un-
merciful toward their victims. More or less of their
captives they would use as artisans and builders, and
seldom failed to bring perfect destruction to the city
or land subdued.
Personally the Babylonians were no more than
medium in stature, having a complexion of olive and
BOOKS AND THEIR TEACHINGS.
83
bronze, lips thick, eyes aslant, and hair black and
curly. They wore costumes of many colors, with a
belt around the waist and sandals upon the feet.
They were skilful engravers on precious stones. A
large number of seals cut from agate, chalcedony,
jasper, and other valuable minerals have been discov-
ered, exhibiting the images of their gods.
Thus these tablets have served as enduring moulds
traced with delicate lines and varied patterns into
which the streams of life and thought and sentiment
of old Babylon flowed, full of ardor and glowing
heat, to become exposed and read in these modern
days, thereby revealing through the clearest light the
long-forgotten past.
VII.
FOOTPRINTS OF PROPHETS AND SACRED CHARACTERS.
AS yet no writings have been found in these ruins
treating of prophets and Israelites who dwelt in
Babylon. However, as I have been wandering and
investigating among the ruins, frequently I have come
upon brilliant and odoriferous flowers which inhale
from the ground and the air the coarsest juices and
the subtlest gases, transforming them through assimi-
lation into beautiful form and color; so these sacred
characters did extract from the coarse, sensual life
of the old city beauty of soul and clearness of mind
which are wafted to us upon every breeze. Tradi-
tions are thick here as to how they lived and how
they wrought. Daniel, Ezra, and Ezekiel spent the
best part of their lives in this region. Daniel is still
spoken of as the only one who could translate the
dream of the great king and interpret the handwrit-
ing on the wall. The descendants of the Captives
now living here still sing the songs of Mount Zion
and quote the prophecies of their seers. Willows
continue to grow by the Euphrates, as they did
when the forlorn strangers hung their harps on them
TTY
7
1
FOOTPRINTS OF PROPHETS.
85
and wept for their beloved Jerusalem. If their his-
tory is not written on clay, it is engraven upon hearts
so as to live.
Making a détour of a few miles below Babylon
along the banks of the Euphrates, accompanied only
by my dragoman, we find the surface broken and left
in heaps, showing where canals and other human
works have existed. We are grateful for the shade
of the palm-trees, which shield us a part of the way
from the piercing sunlight. Two hours' ride brings
us to an inferior village made from mud and brick, —
mostly of mud. Here tradition asserts once stood
a great city, forty-five miles in girth. Its present life
does not indicate greatness; still, the fragments of
pottery are numberless, corroborating the assertion
of tradition.
Here the Jews say that Gabriel first alighted on
earth; certainly it would be a fortunate place to
strike, yet no footprints are left in the mud to tell
where he landed. Here too they affirm that the ark
was built and launched. If this statement be true,
there must have been a flood to change the con-
dition of things to their present state; for surely
no timber is now in the land out of which such a
mighty ship could have been constructed. Only one
incident comes to our notice which savors of antedi-
luvianism, and that is, two women are engaged in
beating back and forth a goatskin partly filled with
cream and suspended on stakes. This is their method
86
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
2
of churning for butter. Really it does appear as if
this method might have existed before the flood; at
least, we will count it a Noachian relic. The very air
is burdened throughout the land with strangest tales
of the past.
Our course is now to the south and away from the
river. The sun is fast ascending to the meridian.
The mercury must be as high as the ninetieth degree.
We think it best to put additional covering upon the
head. The weightiest part of the clothing of the
natives is worn upon the head, especially if exposed
to the sunlight. In this way they guard against sun-
strokes. We do not advance far before we are met
by a caravan of loaded camels bound for Hillah.
These creatures of the desert, made to carry water
sufficient in their stomachs to slake their thirst for
days, move onward so curiously that I am always dis-
posed to stop and look at them, as they drag them-
selves sleepily along. Occasionally they will wind
about like a lazy serpent, and their snaky eyes flash
defiance to all in their way. Our road is circuitous
because of morasses and the overflow of the river.
As weariness and monotony begin to beset us, we
discover a crowd of Jewish pilgrims approaching.
Yes, they are Jews; they have unmistakable marks
of being the descendants of Abraham. They have
been so long exposed to this desert sun and air that
their cheeks and foreheads are bronzy olive. Their
beards hang long and soft; and when they laugh, their
YT
FOOTPRINTS OF PROPHETS.
87
teeth shine white. Ah! they have been to pay de-
votions to the Prophet Ezekiel. Twelve miles from
Babylon we come to Keffil, a walled village. The in-
mates are squalid Arabs. They do not appear as
though they were living, but simply waiting. Still,
their dark eyes look bright, and their foreheads imply
capacity for knowledge; yet the dearth about their
homes and their loitering movements assert their
ignorance and shiftlessness. It is reported that but
few of them can read, yet many have memorized
half a dozen Mahometan prayers. It is feeling, not
thought, that moves, them. The women cannot be
accused of being extravagant in their dress. Their
nails are colored red and their feet yellow. The in-
side of their eyelids are painted jet-black. Their lips
and teeth are screened, so we cannot tell how they
may be frescoed, but their hair is thickly powdered
with kohol.
I am here to look upon the tomb of the Prophet
Ezekiel, who was taken captive by Nebuchadnezzar,
598 B. C. He prophesied for some twenty years;
and when he departed this life, his remains are said
to have been entombed in this place. His mausoleum
is reported to have been constructed by Jaconiah,
King of Judah. It is built into the wall of the city,
and wears the aspect of an enlarged cone, made out
of brick and painted blue and red. We find the
entrance to it within the walls. Its interior is
tawdry and uninviting; an ever-burning lamp sheds
88
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
a dim light in the chamber of the tomb. It is
believed that the sarcophagus contains an ancient
Hebrew copy of the Pentateuch.
Were it not for something more than mere curi-
osity, there would be little satisfaction in visiting
such desolate places; but the power of association
holds great sway, and explains why the graves of the
noble dead are held " in everlasting remembrance.”
Thousands of Jewish pilgrims gather around this
shrine annually. They are confident that it is
the tomb of their Prophet, and believe that their
strength is renewed and increased by visiting it.
We really cannot know how strong Israel is, till we
see her subjects doing homage at her Passover, or
by the shrines of her saints. Wherever you meet
the Hebrew, — whether in Mesopotamia, India,
America, Spain, Egypt, or Jerusalem, — you find
him clinging to his race and showing strictest
reverence for his religion. He believes the king-
dom of Israel is to be re-established, Mount Zion
restored, and that a Messiah is surely to come to
rule over it.
Our donkeys are being fed with chopped straw
and barley. I am seated under a palm-tree just
outside of the city; and my dragoman serves me to
bread, chicken, and dates with water from the
Euphrates; these all have the richest flavor. No
king was ever served to a dinner more relishable.
My repast finished, my object accomplished, our
1
S
FOOTPRINTS OF PROPHETS.
89
TY
faces are set once more toward Babylon. The
barley has put fresh vigor into the legs of our little
animals, or else they are stimulated with the feeling
that they are going back to Hillah, where they have
enjoyed a long rest. We are pursuing somewhat
the same path by which we came. Several jackals
put in their appearance, perhaps to break up the
monotony. The flowers are profuse with their
sweet perfume. We fall in with no caravans or
pilgrims. As we come in sight of Hillah, the sun
is stealing low in his course. He apparently finds
no mountain-top on which to rest awhile, but glints
the minarets, and rims the walls with the brightness
of gold. Soon we are in our khan, glad for the day,
and glad for the night. I have seen to-day with
the natural sight what will henceforth be visible to
the spiritual eye.
VIII.
FROM BABYLON TO KERBELLA, CUNAXA, AND
BAGDAD.
TIME surely is on the swiftest wing. I have
1 been for a week on the site and among the
ruins of Babylon. During this time I have ex-
perienced three Sabbaths. Friday is the Islam's
holy day; Saturday is Israel's day of worship;
and Sunday is the Christian's sacred day.
The Captive Children flock about us as they dis-
cover indications of our departure, anxious to sell
tablets and seals, vowing that they deal in nothing
but genuine antiques. To speak the truth, the son
of Abraham here is just as mercenary as he is
anywhere else in the wide world, and acknowledged
as most skilful in producing anything and everything
that existed before, or has existed since, the Deluge.
It is his nature to traffic. Who can point nowa-
days to an Israelite following the occupation of
Adam? The Jews cannot be surpassed as craftsmen,
buyers, and sellers. Most of their treasures offered
for sale are impositions, gotten up for the sake
of mammon. Judas sold his Lord for money.
FROM BABYLON TO BAGDAD.
91
I should like to remain here with a few thousand
of live Yankees or gritty Scotchmen long enough to
see the ponderous mounds upturned and searched.
I am confident that myriads of most valuable treasures
would be opened up. America should have a share
in these relics, for she is one of the rightful heirs of
the Eastern world.
Well, I have gathered up a few oldtime records
and keepsakes, and gained through experience vastly
more knowledge of the largest city of the ancient
world than I had ever imagined to exist. I now
realize that the Babylonians builded better than they
knew. Their civilization has been working through
the ages and has been spreading through all lands.
As wheat buried with the Egyptian mummy for
thousands of years, when brought to the light and
placed in proper conditions, germinates and still
grows wheat, so it is with this old life.
Wishing to return to Bagdad by a new route, I
reluctantly part with the friends who have been to
me all that I could wish and more, hoping, however,
to meet them again in the City of the Caliphs. My
dragoman informs me that all is ready for a start to
Kerbella. I take my last look at Hillah, and bid
Jew and Arab salaam; and across the bridge we pass
to the east side of the Euphrates. Close upon the
bank and up the river our journey is to be, much of
the time among palm-trees. I am glad of this, for
trees do lend charms. It is a mystery why the an-
BABYLON AND NINEVEHV
K
.
cients did not have more to say about them. Among
the classic authors, with the exception of Virgil,
scarcely a reference is made to them. Then, more
than now, the dells and hills of Greece were thickly
shaded by trees; but what poet of hers was inspired
by them? The Italian lakes laved shores thickly set
with oaks and chestnuts; but who anciently breathed
a song of their grandeur and beauty?
We fall in with booths scattered among the date-
trees; these are constructed mainly out of the palm-
leaf. The pillared trunks rise high and straight to-
ward heaven, bearing up leafy honors from the
dingy soil, spreading them out in the free air and
clear sunlight as a refuge for the weary, a shelter to
the oppressed from the peltings of storms and the
scorching heat of the sun. As the leaves absorb the
noxious qualities from the air, breathing out a purer
atmosphere, the dwellers among them ought to be
healthy and happy. Thus they seem; and does this
not generally hold true regarding dwellers in the coun-
try? The rural folk have most to do with God, while
the civilians have most to do with man. The children
by the doors appear to be very happy; and the faces
of fathers and mothers wear more the mien of trust
than those dwelling under the burning sun. While
passing, I observe a vine which has coiled itself about
the body of a huge palm, braiding its fibres around
the branches, so that the leaves are fading and the
tree is decaying, reminding me of Laocoön strug-
V
FROM BABYLON TO BAGDAD.
93
gling without any avail in the folds of the monstrous
python. It is the lion of trees perishing in the grasp
of a vegetable serpent.
At different points we see remnants of the old
quays; they must have formerly extended along the
river for some ten miles. How thronged and stirring
Babylon must have been when ten and twenty thou-
sand men were engaged in making brick, digging
canals, piling up the walls of palaces and temples !
In an hour and a half we are beyond the bounds of
the city; still, everywhere are to be seen the results
of human action. At its zenith this country must
have been all alive with human beings. The mounds
and ditches are countless.
The day is proving auspicious; the wind is blow-
ing from the north and so tempering the burning
rays as to render them agreeable. Our path is
meandering, from the fact of the many ditches cross-
ing our track; some of them are from twenty to
forty feet deep, mostly dry. While desolation and
ugliness have covered the surface since we left the
trees, still the mind does find pleasure in contemplat-
ing the happiness of the ancient peasants as they
irrigated the land and tilled the soil. The pictures
painted by the imagination are often ecstatic. It
does us good to see men toiling and sweating to
make others happy. It is the association of the
human with the natural that affords the greatest
mental delight. Of what charms Nebo, Mount Ver-
94
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
non, and the Tweed would be shorn, were the names
of Moses, Washington, and Scott lost in oblivion.
It is surprising what our donkeys can endure,
bearing us on at the rate of three and five miles an
hour! It is strange how their tiny legs can trot off
under a hundred and fifty and two hundred pounds!
They ought to have a Nestorian rather than a doltish
name.
As we occasionally bend to the river, water-fowls
take to their wings, exhibiting many and various
kinds,- ducks, snipe, pelicans, cranes, and ibises.
The ground-sparrows and larks fly about us, doing
their best to drive away dull sameness. We are
grateful that noon comes, and lunch too. We stop
at an inferior khan to refresh the inner man and the
inner beast. We have no great change in our diet.
Why should we? Animals do not require it. How-
ever, we are able to add to our stock this noon a pint
of fresh goats' inilk. Still, every day brings addi-
tional proof that “ bread is the staff of life.”
An hour's rest, and we are on the move again ; and
at two o'clock we are ready to cross the Euphrates
once more. Here our donkeys are left, and so over
a pontoon-bridge we walk to the other side; and here
we embark on a canal-boat for Kerbella, some twelve
miles distant. For a while we are riding through
lands where sheep and cattle are grazing. Leaving
the open fields, our course is among groves of date,
mulberry, fig, and orange trees. A motley crowd
FROM BABYLON TO BAGDAD.
95
1
are on the boat; most of the passengers are pilgrims
from afar. Some of them have been on their journey
for months. Many of them look jaded and sad, yet
they long to see Kerbella above all other places.
Three hours brings us to the desired haven. The
pilgrims are filled with bounding joy. Yes, this is
emphatically a city of the dead, containing millions
of graves. Nevertheless, the live part of the town
numbers sixty thousand.
Kerbella owes its rise and sanctity to the historic
event of the martyrdom of Huessein, the son of Ali
and Fatima, and the grandson of Mahomet. His
father had been killed by Amer who was sent out
here from Constantinople to capture the city and
surrounding cities and bring them directly under
Turkish authority. The Mahometans here rebelled
against this procedure, and when Ali was destroyed
in fighting against it, Huessein fled to Mecca; but
through earnest entreaty on the part of his followers
(as he came into power at the death of his father), he:
returned to them, contrary to the advice of his best
friends. As he was approaching Kerbella, riding at
the head of his escort, he fell asleep and saw in a
dream a horseman, who said, “Men travel by night,
and their destinies travel by night toward them.”
Huessein said, “ This I know to be a message of our
death; " but he continued on his march. His sister
by his side besought him to turn back; still, onward
he pressed. Soon after arriving here, he fell asleep
1
96
BABYLON AND NINEVEH1
.
again while leaning on his sword; and the Prophet
appeared to him, saying, “ Thou shalt rest with us.”
His sister awoke him, and he told her his dream; and
she exclaimed, “Woe to us!” He replied, “Sister,
you have no reason to complain. God have mercy
‘upon you! Hold your peace!" Upon this he mounted
his horse and ordered his cavalry and infantry, num-
bering less than seventy-five in all, to follow him.
Huessein washed and anointed himself, using the
most costly oils. He then remounted his horse with
the Koran in hand, and said, “My protector is God,
who sent down this book, and he will be the protector
of the righteous." His sister and daughters, hearing
this, wept aloud. Huessein, much distressed, cried,
“ God reward the son of Abbas!" Upon this, thirty
of the enemy's horse came over to his side, resolved
to die with him. The battle now began with a shower
of arrows. One of Amer's men came to him, saying,
“Huessein, you are close to hell.” Huessein an-
swered, “No; but, alas for you! I go to a merciful
Lord, full of compassion and forgiveness, easy to be
obeyed, but you are more worthy of hell!” His
little force was soon cut in pieces; his eldest son,
Ali, was killed before his eyes, but the enemy were
loath to slay himself. Soon he was wounded on the
head; exhausted, he sat down, taking his little son
Abdallah upon his knee, who was instantly killed by
an arrow. Upon this Huessein threw a handful of his
child's blood toward heaven, and cried, “ O Lord, if
FROM BABYLON TO BAGDAD.
97
1
thou now withholdest help from heaven, give it to
those who are better, and take vengeance upon the
wicked!" Upon this, he was shot in the mouth
while quenching his thirst at a well. A little nephew,
running up to him, had his hand cut off with a sword;
but Huessein consoled him, saying, “Thy reward,
child, is with God. Thou shalt go to thy pious fore-
fathers.” Now he threw himself into the midst of the
enemy; they fled from his onslaught like a deer before
a lion. Amer was melted to tears; but Shamer, one
of his captains, a bitter foe, ordered his men to fire
upon Huessein, wounding him with three and thirty
arrows. A spear pierced his heart, and his head was
struck off. His head was sent to Yezid, and his body
was buried in Kerbella.
His tragic and heroic death called forth warmest
sympathy, and made his grave as sacred to the Islams
of Persia and the Shiahs of the East as that of their
Prophet at Mecca. It was not long before a town
sprang up around his resting-place, and over it a
superb mosque with a gilded dome and a highly
decorated minaret. To be buried now in Kerbella is
a passport for the Moslem to Paradise, and is an
expiation for all his sins.
So while we are here, by night and by day pilgrims
from near and remote lands keep arriving with the
remains of many of their dead. The revenue accru-
ing from the burial fees is enormous. The moullas,
or sextons, are unscrupulous in their charges. The
Dla
98
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
ca
rich can afford to pay heavily for a grave which is
the vestibule of heaven; but the poor suffer at the
hands of these mercenaries. Adding the expense of
burial to what it costs to bring the corpses from
Persia, India, and China, it often amounts to five
hundred or even a thousand dollars for a single
interment. Many of the dead brought here have
been buried before.
For twelve hundred years this work has been
going on; and at present two hundred thousand
pilgrims annually visit this shrine. Often whole
families make the journey, taking them from a few
months to a year. The old and infirm, the rich
and poor, the strong and weak, the sad and joyous,
youths and children, all hasten, on foot, or on horse
or boat, to the tomb of Huessein. They conduct
themselves with propriety. No doubt but they are
made better by their great self-sacrifices and de-
votion to the dead.
Kerbella is surrounded by a brick wall. It con-
tains five mosques ; those of Huessein and Abbas
are beautiful. The streets are narrow and filthy, but
thronged through the day. The mass of the dwellers
are Arabs and Persians; the officers in charge of
affairs are Turks. As I witness the devotions in
the mosques and especially around the tomb of
Huessein, I cannot find it in my heart to question
their sincerity. Kerbella to the Shiahs is a second
Месса.
FROM BABYLON TO BAGDAD.
99
It is my good fortune to be introduced to some
of the chief personages of the city. I find them
cordial and agreeable; they believe in Kerbella.
As the muezzin at early morn, noon, mid-afternoon,
sunset, and close of twilight send down from the
lofty minarets calls for prayers to Allah, it is sur-
prising how quick the Moslems fall upon their
knees, bowing their faces to the dust and lifting
them to the light. They are a punctiliously reli-
gious people; they are ready to spend and be spent
for their saints. In the mosques of Huessein and
Abbas the number and variety of ornaments and gifts
upon the altars and walls are astonishing. While
the architecture is not sublimely beautiful, yet it
does excite and amuse the imagination and fascinate
the eye.
All day long, caravans of horses and camels are
arriving, setting down their loads of the living and
the dead. The turbaned heads and mottled dresses
can but attract attention. The bazaars are in full
blast the whole day. They are abundantly furnished
with memorials and souvenirs; some are cheap and
others costly. The Jew is conspicuous here as a
vender.
The second day's dawning after our ingress we
are preparing for egress. The sky in the east is
first streaked with greenish hues, which soon change
to opal and then to orange, rising and expanding
till the whole heavens are flecked with beauty, as
100
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
the great orb springs up and dashes a flood of glory
over the landscape.
Walking the streets, we see natives and strangers
eating their frugal breakfast of rice and dates. They
apparently have no use for knives and forks, for their
fingers meet all demands.
We take the first boat bound for the Euphrates.
We leave the Hindiah canal to our right, through
which half of the water of the Euphrates runs off
to the south of Babylon.
Reaching our donkeys, we find them in the best
of spirits; and as we mount them, for a while we
enjoy a real Cairo donkey race. The morning sun
often has a wonderful effect upon buds, birds, and
donkeys ; it was the morning sun that daily awoke
the statue of Memnon into song. Rested Nature is
certain to frolic, laugh, and bound. Change is rest;
and I find it so as I contrast the now with the yester-
day. Here it is nearly all Nature; there it was mostly
all human. Of course, too much of one thing tires,
but the natural, nothing so soon, as the artistic.
Perhaps the cause is, Nature does not offer any con-
tradictions, and so moves the whole of our better
selves. The garden may be beautiful and pensive;
but the solitude, the vast plain, the night heavens,
and the boundless ocean stir our whole being in one
direction, toward the Infinite. It is a question if
a cultivated flower could have moved Mungo Park
as did the bit of moss in the trackless wilderness.
FROM BABYLON TO BAGDAD. .
IOI
Even home is never so highly appreciated as when
thought of in a distant land and in the solitary place.
Our faces are still turned up the Euphrates. How
mysterious that this river should keep pouring on as it
has, through the æons! A simpleton can assert that
water will run downhill; but it requires a sage to
tell the why. About forty-five miles from Babylon
we reach a memorable spot. This is Cunaxa, nearly
an entire waste at present; but as history speaks, how
it glares, surprises, becomes chivalric and heroic !
Here it was that Cyrus the Younger and his brother
Artaxerxes in 401 B. C. met in deadly conflict.
Cyrus, a satrap of Asia Minor, had marched, with a
hundred thousand barbarians and thirteen thousand
Greeks, six hundred miles in thirty days, to this
place, where he was met by his brother, having
under his command nine hundred thousand soldiers.
Cyrus was the aggrieved one; he felt that he ought
to be on the throne of Persia instead of Artaxerxes.
The odds were too great; still, Cyrus went into a
pitched battle with fullest confidence that he should
come out the victor. But the first onset of the enemy
put to flight his barbarian forces; still, his Greeks
stood fast like a rock to their leader, who fell a victim
to his brother's sword. This ended the strife, and
then came the feigned council of Artaxerxes, at
which he persuaded the other Greek generals to
be present, promising them fair treatment; but
when convened, the Persians treacherously put them
I02
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
V
to death. That very night of the terrible slaughter
the Greeks reorganized and chose new generals;
one of these was Xenophon, the historian. Then
followed the distinguished retreat of the Ten Thou-
sand homeward. As we read the great historian's ac-
count of it, as he saw it and felt it, the pulse beats
quick and high, and the mind is crowded with won-
derment and admiration. We admit that those old
heroes possessed more brains than brawn, and that
in their make-up there was more steel than iron.
No braver blood ever coursed human veins than
that of the old Athenians and Spartans. Grecian
life does stir the mental and the sentimental as
scarcely any other. When Homer sings, Phidias
chisels, Demosthenes declaims, Plato reasons, and
Socrates moralizes, we are ready to say, True to
nature.
Association here now is all that allures and com-
pensates for the much riding and wandering. The
present spectacle is foreboding. The trifling settle-
ment speaks most of squalor and shiftlessness. Bid-
ding adieu to this battlefield, I can but realize the
dangers of mere blood relation. It is bound to claim
what belongs to another; it is prone to make little
use of duty, love, and justice; it will use arsenic,
the dagger, or the pistol to get the old folk out of
the way, to heir property. How many kings and
queens have been dethroned because of it! All
others cast into the balance do not weigh down self.
FROM BABYLON TO BAGDAD.
103
It found true expression when the French woman
said in a dispute with her sister, “I don't know how
it happens, Sister, but I meet with nobody but myself
that is always right.” It may present a fair surface,
and at the same time be brooding vengeance at the
core. The blood is resolved upon being ministered
to; here is the secret of the quarrel in the home, and
the war in the State. Not so with the spirit; it pre-
fers others to self. It gains glorious victories by
returning good for evil; it reverences old age; it
rejoices to have a brother upon the throne. Verily,
it alone has gained the great victories of the world.
The campaign of life is not won by the sword, but by
the spirit. Alexander is a pimp beside Socrates;
Napoleon a nonentity compared with Howard. Jesus
is the Hero of all heroes, because he always returned
good for evil.
My dragoman thinks it strange that I should care to
visit such a place as Cunaxa. But he is a singular man.
He is big enough and old enough to be good. He
has seen more than half a century, and pulls down
more than one hundred and ninety pounds. He
cannot read or write, but speaks Arabic and Chaldaic
fluently; but his English limps a deal. He is a
Chaldæan Christian, which means that he is a Catho-
lic with the Pope left out. He has a wife and several
children of whom he speaks often and tenderly. He
is not a skilled dragoman, though the best I could
find in the country. He learned his English by
104
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
.
serving as a sailor for two years on board a British
vessel. He seems to be honest, and desirous to do
the best he can. I have furnished him with a repeat-
ing horse-pistol, and he is as pleased with it as a boy
with his first jackknife. I often wish that he were
acquainted with the history of this old country, and
so would now and then give a faint expression of
enthusiasm as we are riding over these dreary levels
which are frequently broken up by piles and heaps,
showing the result of human hands; but the past is
a sealed book to him, and I am afraid it will remain
so. He has naturally five talents, but I am confident
he will not double them in this world.
Night overtakes us quite too soon, and so into the
khan we are forced to go. We are twenty miles
from Bagdad. I should judge all the sheep and
cattle of Mesopotamia are herded here for the night,
by the bleating and lowing, the chewing of cuds, and
the stamping of feet; but we have got used to this
sort of thing and so submit to it with a fair degree of
grace. These khans are folds for the herds and
flocks which feed in the surrounding country. Dur-
ing the night and storms, the shepherds dare not stay
out on the plains with their flock, for fear of robbers
and wild beasts. The khans are erected, as it has
been said, at the expense of the government.
As morning opens upon us, we find that weariness
has departed and recuperation taken its place, giving
joy, as we hasten to make ready for a new start. A
FROM BABYLON TO BAGDAD.
105
little village huddles close about this public place, as
is usually the case wherever a khan exists. Survey-
ing somewhat the premises, I descry an old fellow
with an ancient Persian gun, doing his best to get off
his charge with a coal of fire at a pigeon. The
children are up, and covered with dirt as though they
had slept in smut. We see women cooking rice and
lentils, and men devouring the mess with their un-
washed fingers. Women stand in doorways combing
their hair with their fingers, and snapping them every
now and then as if something bit. The odors per-
vading the settlement are in striking contrast to the
sweet perfumes of mint and orange blossoms; but
these things are too common to create any sensation.
A man sees a miracle only once, — though he goes
after it, it will not come again; but these unpleasant
things come without any apparent stint.
Our breakfast is served after the usual manner, but
subtraction has been practised upon the variety;
still, the cocoa, bread, and sardines are excellent.
Soon we are upon our donkeys, and off for Bagdad,
where we expect to dine. When within ten miles of
the City of Peace, my dragoman surprises me by
pointing to a mound, saying, “Accad.” This is really
his first revelation to me. It is true that tradition
has reported the old city to have stood here, and
where Bagdad now stands, and also fifteen miles be-
low the City of Caliphs on the banks of the Tigris.
Some natives are now searching about the heap for
106
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
Y
relics. It is said that several clay coffins have been
dug out of these ruins. They may yet come upon
some tablets which will decide positively what city
Once stood here. At midday we are riding into the
town which is denominated the “delectable city” in
the “ Arabian Nights," where knowledge springs
from fiction, and science is made to consist in un-
ravelling riddles, and all the mathematicians and
astrologers bring their long beards to bear on a
conundrum.
As we enter the street of bazaars, the views are as
changing as those of a kaleidoscope. All the people
are in the market-places, it would seem. When we
went through the city two weeks since, I thought the
highways were crowded; but now they are jammed,
and my guide says it is so nearly every day. We
fall in with any number of countrymen strolling
about, girdled with belts stuck full of pistols and
dirks, looking shaggy and savage, but they are not
dangerous. Wild, swarthy Arabs are here, driving
horses and camels loaded with produce. Armenians,
Arabs, Greeks, and Jews are squatted in nooks, smok-
ing pipes or cigarettes, while sallow-faced boys with
large eyes are tending their shops; negro slaves are
clogging along in wooden shoes and speckled shirts
recently brought from Zanzibar. Women are thick,
with black nose-bags and shuffling slippers, striking
sharp bargains with the merchants. We ride through
the rope quarter and the sweetmeat quarter; we pass
FROM BABYLON TO BAGDAD.
107
meat-shops, the tinmen, silversmiths, and brass work-
ers. The coffee-houses are brimful of sippers and
newsmongers. In the cobblers' section men and
boys are hammering and sewing and laughing.
Turkish officials are constantly moving among the
throngs. The greatest sensation is experienced as
long strings of camels advance, like those pictured
in the procession of Bluebeard, with sleepy eyes,
drooping necks, swaying sides, and softest tread.
This is a train which has just arrived from Aleppo.
The big folk and little urchins and all are bound to
witness the show. Such a scene occurs only at wide
intervals. It is a grand sight, absorbing all attention,
reminding me of the Frenchman who said that “the
chief end of a pilgrimage was to show capacity.”
“ No," responded an Englishman; “but to set your
shoulder to the wheel and advance business." All
seemingly have their shoulder to the wheel; and ours
rolls on, bringing us soon to the gate of hospitality,
which opens as we dismount, giving us glad welcome
into quarters prepared for our comfort. The waiter
cannot do too much for us; he tries apparently to
render himself uncomfortable to make us comforta-
ble. So here is another Turner, who will darken his
own picture that it may not take the light out of
Lawrence's.
.
IX.
THE SOCIAL, CIVIL, AND RELIGIOUS CONDITION
OF BAGDAD.
III
W HILE stopping here for a few days to rest and
prepare for an outing far to the north, I wish
to look over this city somewhat carefully as to its
social, civil, and religious status.
The population of Bagdad is very mixed; still, the
language of the residents is Arabic, whether Arabs,
Turks, Jews, Armenians, Persians, Chaldæans, or
Europeans. As I study the social problems, I learn
that there are saints and sinners here as in other
Eastern cities; the masses are ignorant, and seem
content to remain so; the outward controls them
mainly. The men do not appear to be ambitious
to do much more than simply enough to secure a
living; of course there are exceptions to this. They
believe in making merry to-day, letting to-morrow
take care of itself; so they spend much time at the
corners of the streets, in coffee-houses, and wherever
there is something going on. Children and dogs are
conspicuous in the highways all the day long; thus
they are educated to stroll and see the sights.
THE CONDITION OF BAGDAD.
109
The native woman has little chance to exercise
much influence for good, from the fact that she is
regarded by man as his inferior and servant. When-
ever a girl is born, sorrow is expressed; but when the
boy makes his début in this world, joy fills the heart.
Though the Arabs no longer practise infanticide by
burying the unfortunate comer in the sand, as they
did before the days of Mahomet, still the aversion to
the feminine sex continues. Woman has little voice
in the management of the home. While she remains
in the country, she generally has the reputation of
being pure; still, she is quite certain to be distrusted
as to her virtue in the city. Nevertheless, the stars
of beauty do at times have a decided influence ;
especially is this the case when a tribe is going to
war. Often mounting one or two of these fair maid-
ens upon the best mares, they force them into the
forefront of battle, that they may sing songs, and
urge the men onward. Let woman be debased, and
society will be deficient in morals; facts prove it
to be thus here.
Some of the faces of the Judæan and Armenian
women are beautiful. They offer strong attraction
to the foreigners from the West who are settled
here, particularly the single men. It is often the
case that the Englishman or Scotchman selects his
consort from among them.
The baths here have a telling influence, somewhat
as they did in Pompeii and Rome. They number
ΙΙο
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
fifty, and are much frequented during all hours of
the day. While they are never so costly as the
baths of Caracalla or Baiæ, yet the natives speak of
them as most attractive and beautiful. Perhaps I
may say with truth that bathing is the national
game of the Bagdadans. It ought to be a clean
one and show itself to a better advantage than it
commonly does.
The Jews are strong, numbering more than twenty
thousand. Like their race generally, they prefer traf-
fic to manual labor. Many of the capitalists of the
city are of their number. They all speak Hebrew
and Arabic, keeping their accounts and doing their
writing in the former language. They approve of
early marriages and large families, and delight in
these blessings, though it keeps the majority of
them poor, so that they cannot educate their chil-
dren, as they would be glad to do; still, they must
all be taught to read Hebrew. They are very social
among themselves, and do not have their principal
meal till after sunset, and this is often kept up till
midnight. On Saturday morning they attend an
early service in the synagogues; after this they
breakfast, and after the meal they all engage in
reading the Scriptures aloud. Often several families
unite in this service; the strictest attention is given
to it by all present. When the reading is over, the
rest of the day is given to interchanges of visits and
social amusements in the open air. The Jews inform
THE CONDITION OF BAGDAD.
III
.
me that they enjoy the fullest religious liberty in
Bagdad. They take the lead as artificers, traders,
and bankers.
The Armenians are also numerous and influential;
some of them are wealthy. The average Armenian
desires to be a clerk or a professional character. He
is acknowledged to be a man of brains and a deal of
capacity, surpassing in this respect all other natives
in Asiatic Turkey. He is suspected, perhaps, on this
account by the Turk, and accused of having sym-
pathy with Russia. Certainly he cannot be satisfied
with his government as it is; he is well aware that
there could be but little danger of having anything
worse. Still, he loves his country and longs to have it
redeemed from the hands of tyranny. The Armenians
are Christian in their religious tendency. In nearly
every establishment of any character in the city may
be seen an Armenian who does the thinking and
planning; he believes in freedom of conscience and
universal education.
There are about a score of Englishmen and Scotch-
men settled in the city, who are engaged in trade and
navigation. It has afforded me the greatest pleasure
to meet them, being exceedingly kind and cordial.
Most of them have families with them. Their doors
have been wide open to me; and manifestly they have
felt that nothing should be left undone on their part
to render my stay enjoyable. There are among them
an English vicar and a physician as missionaries, who
1111
TV1
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II2
V
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
are doing the best they can for the spread of the
gospel. The English consul I find very desirous to
do all in his power to make my sojourn safe and
profitable.
The French Catholics are being the most success-
ful in gaining proselytes; they are having large and
prosperous schools for girls and boys.
They have already gained a strong hold here, and
are generally spoken of in terms of praise.
Bagdad, as in every shire town of a vilayet, is gov-
erned by a pasha, assisted by a medjliss, or council ;
this body is composed of Mahometans, Jews, and
Christians; but the first must outnumber the others.
The Mussulmans must be sworn friends to the Sultan.
At the present the government seems to be in good
hands, and is likely to be so when a good pasha is at
the head, and the reverse when otherwise. The coun-
cil has judicial, as well as consultative functions, and
hears appeals from the councils of the counties and
townlands into which the province is divided. But
the officials, like those in other countries, are prone to
become corrupt, living beyond their means, and so
make themselves believe that they have the right to
steal from the government or individuals. I hear
much of this kind of work from the tax-payers. The
revenues are collected by soldiers, and many of them
are bound to filch all they can from the payers and
give over as little as possible to the government.
So while there is good order on the surface of
THE CONDITION OF BAGDAD.
113
things, there is boiling of passion and rebellion
underneath. There is a growing dissatisfaction with
the present régime. The trade of the city and coun-
try is decreasing; and this is disturbing the people
generally, and so they are praying for something
better; and that better must come from England, the
Turks and Arabs believe, but some of the other
nationalities are not certain but it must come from
Russia.
The commonalty is being oppressed beyond de-
scription by taxation. Nothing apparently escapes
the eye of the revenue-collector. Even the water-
carrier is obliged to pay a tax on his goatskin bag.
A man must pay a tax for roasting coffee, grinding
corn, weighing grain, dealing in salt or fuel. A
duty of ten per cent is put upon wheat, barley,
melons, cheese, milk, and other produce. Two and
a half per cent must be paid on the sale of property,
as land and cattle. One cannot erect a house or re-
pair it without paying a license-tax. Everything
manufactured pays an excise duty. A tax is assessed
upon every man's head; and when he dies, if his body
is borne over a bridge of boats for burial, a tax of six
cents is exacted. So the living and the defunct pay
revenues in this country; and the demands are liable
to come thick and often. The burdens are placed
largely upon the poor; the rich have a way of evad-
ing the law, either through bluff or falsehood, and
114
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
so glory in their success of evading the law or the
tax-collector.
Bagdad is far from being a paradise or a city of
peace at the present time. The people delight to
quote its past, but are disposed to be reticent as to
its present and future. Nature has done sufficient
here to have a large and prosperous city.

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FROM BAGDAD TO MOSUL.
T HAVE purchased a ticket of the government on
1 the post-route from Bagdad to Mosul, furnish-
ing me with three horses, a post-man; and zaptiehs
sufficient to guard me on the journey, being a dis-
tance of more than three hundred miles. I am hop-
ing to make the pilgrimage in five days. The course
is divided into twelve stages, varying from twenty-
three to thirty-three miles each. At the end of each
stage I am to have a change of horses, which are
promised to be first-class. I am to have my old
dragoman, who is busy in making ready the outfit.
The morning for starting has arrived; the horses
are at the gate, saddled and equipped under the
charge of the post-man; the zaptiehs, too, are on
hand in uniform, with rifles strapped to their backs,
and mounted upon stylish horses. The post-man has
fastened my bed to the rear of his saddle, and my
dragoman has attached our bag of food to his sad-
dle. Shaking of hands being over and the good-by
spoken, we are soon upon our horses, and with many
God-speeds we are off. We are in single file: one
116
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
Y
of the zaptiehs is taking the lead; my dragoman is
next; I am third; the post-man is fourth; and the
other zaptieh brings up the rear. The zaptiehs have
donned new suits. My dragoman is in European
style for the first time in his life. Our passage
through the main street creates more excitement than
a train of forty cars rushing into the centre of Boston.
My dragoman poses himself on his horse like a gen-
eral. It is a great beginning for him; for he never
started on so long a journey before, though he was
reared at Mosul, but he emigrated to Bagdad on a
raft down the Tigris River. We are soon out of the
city and under the shadows of grand palm-trees. The
morning sparkles like a diamond; the air is highly
charged with ozone. My men and beasts are full of
life, and as soon as we are in the open fields, away
our fleet horses go. We are on the east side of the
Tigris bearing to the northeast for several days; the
river is overflowing its banks in many places. Peas-
ants are busy in ditching and turning the water upon
their newly sown wheat-fields, and damming the water
back in places. The birds are swimming and flying
about; most beautiful flowers are dotting the ground
in spots. The country is level as far as the eye can
see; however, our course occasionally is through a
depression where the water is running or standing.
As we are wallowing through one of these sinks, the
water being more than knee-deep to our horses, off
goes one of the zaptiehs (his animal making a mis-
1
FROM BAGDAD TO MOSUL.
117
step) into the yellow fluid, and away flies his horse.
That is too bad, to be immersed in such a manner.
But the douching does not concern the zaptieh so
much as how he is to catch his horse. But with
great adroitness, aided by the other zaptieh, the feat
is soon accomplished, and the dripping soldier is
mounted on his steed once more. The palm-trees
are falling fast behind us. The sun is approaching
the zenith and shooting directly upon our heads pierc-
ing rays. The burning heat and the motion of the
horse hang drops of sweat all over the face. Our
post-road consists of four or five paths made by
the tread of the camel and the horse. It did not re-
quire much engineering or levelling to complete it.
Possibly it may have been lined by the crow and laid
out by wandering Arabs. We frequently see shep-
herds in rough skins leading their flocks hither and
thither, wherever feed is to be found. The sheep and
cattle look as though they had fared hard for months
past. The sheep are large and woolly, but the heifers
and steers are small compared with the Durhams and
Devons of Vermont. But the colts and horses are
finely formed: the heads are small; eyes full; bodies
short and compact; breasts deep; legs medium size;
the full grown, six and seven hands high, weighing
from nine to eleven hundred pounds; and colors,
roan, chestnut, dapple-gray, and black. There are
three kinds of horses in this region, -- the true Arab,
Persian, and the Kurd. The Bedouins count five dif-
118
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
.
ferent breeds descended from the five favorite mares
of the Prophet; and these have diverged into number-
less varieties. At two o'clock we arrive at the end
of the first stage, having rode twenty-seven miles in
some six hours. We ride into a khan made of mud,
to change horses, eat a lunch, and secure new zap-
tiehs. On examining the premises, I can but con-
gratulate myself that we are not to stop here for the
night. We find it tough to endure the flies and fleas
even for an hour; and what should we do if the
night were before us? Though I am not obligated to
fee the zaptiehs at all, still since they have been good
faithful fellows, and receive not more than a shilling
a day for their services from the government, I can-
not find it in my heart to part with them without giv-
ing to each a two-shilling bit. As they receive the
money, they express the greatest joy and thankful-
ness. They will stop here for the night and then re-
turn to Bagdad on the morrow.
I inquire as to the dangers of the next stage and how
many zaptiehs will be needed to guard us safely. I
am informed that we should have three, since we will
not reach the next post-station till after dark. At
these stations we find more or less soldiers, supported
by the State for the purpose of guarding the mails as
they are transported through the country. At the
end of an hour fresh horses are bridled and saddled,
and a new surajee, or post-man, is to accompany us,
having charge of the horses. As we mount the ani-
FROM BAGDAD TO MOSUL.
119
mals, we soon discover they are of true mettle. Start-
ing out, the guardsien join us; they are jolly fellows
on prancing horses. As we strike off, it is not at a
lope, but at a speed little short of a race. As the
animals are reined up, the steeds of the captiehs
caracole and champ their bit like a Bucephalus. We
have some twenty-two miles to make before we shall
reach the next caravansary; so it becomes us to
make haste while the sun shines. The guardsmen
are anxious to press forward; for we are approaching
the country of the Kurds, and are likely to have troops
of robbers swoop down upon us. They do not dread
the Bedouin highwaymen, for in their depredations
all they crave is money, and so if they attack you,
and you will only yield up your possession without
attempting to harm them, they will let you go on
your way without further molestation; but the Kurd
banditti aim to slay you first, and then take your
treasures, and usually they are well armed with
daggers, spears, and guns. Some recent robberies
have taken place on this route. I judge the surajee
and zaptiehs are recounting, whenever there is a
chance, some of the terrible escapes and adventures
which they recently have had; at least, my dragoman
looks a little scared, and keeps saying, "We had better
hurry up!” The sun is beating hot upon our backs,
and our horses pant as we press onward. The sur-
face of the ground is becoming broken, and in places
rises into considerable hills. Occasionally we pass a
I20
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
Bedouin farmer breaking up the ground with his
diminutive team; he does little more than to scratch
the earth. The soil is naturally rich and deep; there
can be no question but it would produce sixty and a
hundred fold, if it were properly cultivated. All at
once far ahead is spied a party of human beings
coming toward us. The zaptiehs put their Reming-
ton rifles in order as though bloody work were soon to
commence. I say to my dragoman, “Is your pistol
all ready for service?” He replies, “Do you think we
have got to fight?” As I observe him, he looks as
though his heart had begun to fail him. I take my
glass out and bring it to bear upon the moving body,
and discover that they are not armed, but no doubt are
travelling merchants. When I say to my men, “ They
are not robbers,” their countenances change from
fear to hope instantly; and we ride on with joy. As
we meet the party, we find them to be merchants and
kindly disposed. They greet us warmly, and we
wish them a safe journey and hurry on rejoicing.
As the sun sets, we are an hour from our stopping-
place. The twilight is beautiful, and star after star
keeps shooting radiance upon us till the whole
heavens are aglow. Were it not for the night, how
little we should know of God's wondrous power and
works! When we see his worlds upon worlds, and
all held, as in the palm of his own hand, being con-
stantly swung through infinite space and kept in
perfect order, we can but feel that he is caring for
FROM BAGDAD TO MOSUL.
121
the earth, and has created all these splendors to
gratify and keep safe his children. It is not an hour
before we are riding into the village of Yuzajee and
into the khan where we are to lodge for the night.
It is a joy after the wild romance of such a desert
ride to enter a rendezvous of safety and rest. Sur-
veying the quarters, we discover that this caravansary
is a decided improvement on the last one. Our
horses are tethered, - for they are never tied by the
neck or head in this land, - and we have selected our
table for supper and our mound for the night. We
have rode some fifty miles to-day; and to-morrow I
wish to make three stages. Our rations are about
the same we had in our last trip. As soon as con-
venient, my bed is spread, and I am lying on a mound
of clay and curtained by the starry sky. As I look
at my dragoman and then at myself, I am reminded
of the prostrate statues over the graves of the old
Scotch kings on the island of Iona. Iona is counted
as the isle of the blest, and so we may consider our
present state that of the blest. It is the same Divine
Providence that lights up the stars by night and dims
them by day, which lulls us in the evening and awakes
us in the morning. Incessant gratitude should be
the key of the heart by day and the lock by night.
Sweet sleep held us fast till the dawning, and now
we are up, have breakfasted, have paid the zaptiehs,
and secured the promise of six new ones; we mount
brisk horses, expecting to fall in with our guards at a
1
122
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
1
certain turn in the road. The stars are still shining,
and the air is cool. We come across only two of the
promised zaptiehs; however, these say that the others
will overtake us ; and so onward we move, expecting
the other soldiers every moment to come up with us;
we are anxious to complete the first stage by nine
o'clock. The stars have disappeared, and the sun's
rays are glimmering and shimmering over the fields.
We are now in the region of the ancient Aryans, and
afterward the home of the Medes and Parthians. In
their day it must have been a delightful country.
The surface is broken and in places wooded, and in
the distance I can see mountains and forests. In the
old time no doubt the soil gave out abundant harvests,
and the cultivators became forehanded; but now
the ground is mostly fallow. We often scare up
bevies of quail. Why should this land become so
neglected? Possibly it was in this vicinity that Zoro-
aster dwelt and stimulated the people to think and
do; in such a condition progress is always made.
What a stirring period that was in Greece when Soc-
rates, Plato, and Aristotle lived! Wherever the best
mental and moral work is being done, there the best
tillage and building are going on; but let scholars
die and no generation of thinkers rise up to take
their place, and waste and mildew are certain to be-
fall that age and country; or let a country become
crowded with religious bigots who cry down Nature
and the earth as Satanic, and then dearth and de-
-
-
FROM BAGDAD TO MOSUL.
123
struction will follow. Steffens said, “The religious
opinions of men rest on their views of Nature.
Where Nature is scoffed at, astronomy, geology,
chemistry, and botany cannot flourish; and the west
wind, which bears inspiration to the meteorologist,
strikes terror to the farmer's house, the miner's
camp, and the fisherman's skiff.”
Well, the other four zaptiehs do not put in their
appearance, and they will not be likely to now, it is
getting to be so late. Not either of the present
guardsmen seems disposed to take the lead, but
rather drag in the rear. They try to excuse them-
selves by saying that their horses are jaded from ·
rough usage yesterday; but the truth is they are
fearing robbers, and judge themselves not strong
enough to cope with them in case of an attack,
so they are resolved to be as far from them as they
can be. While advancing rapidly, I spy ahead a
party mounted on horses approaching at a rapid
pace. I call the attention of the dragoman to the
fact; and as I look to the rear, the soldiers are dis-
appearing as fast as their steeds can carry them.
My dragoman and surajee think that it is best for
us to do the same; but it is apparent that will do
no good, for if they are robbers, they will ride us
down, and we will not stand the chance that we would
to meet them fearlessly. So I say, “Now, show no
white feather, but push forward bravely. Be sure
and have your weapons ready for action, whenever
124
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
they shall be needed; " so I lead on at good speed,
and lo, when we come up to the supposed murderers,
they turn out to be kindly merchants! They are
exceedingly cordial, and report that they have seen
no robbers on the way. . Now we put the spurs
afresh to our animals, and at half-past nine o'clock
we are at Deli-Abbas. We have reason to be thank-
ful that we have experienced nothing more than a
scare, and that I have no soldiers to pay.
We rest here for a little while, and then we are on
fresh horses, attended by four zaptiehs. Ledges
are now cropping out of the hillsides. The Tigris
is far to the west; as I inspect the valleys, I can see
evidences of other rivers running from the mountains
of Persia and Armenia. We have not gone very far
before wild turkeys are running and flying across our
track. Really, what a chance for the hunter here !
Their bodies are white with gray wings, and large in
size. Soon we come upon the brow of a hill where
there is spread out before us a meadow sixty miles
in length and forty in breadth, just as green as our
richest mowings in the middle of June. Of a sudden
my dragoman says, “See them antelopes;” and
sure enough, there are more than a thousand feed-
ing half a mile away. He says our post-man
states that he has seen more than ten thousand
feeding there at the same time. It is a beautiful
sight. Not a tree is to be seen on that wide stretch
of land, neither a village; but I am told that
FROM BAGDAD TO MOSUL. 125
1
YY
there are settlements in some of the valleys near
the rivers. Our course is across the meadow;
and as we near the antelopes, how they bound
away! Occasionally we see natives with their fire-
lock guns having pitchfork bayonets fastened to the
muzzles, shying round, as though they expected to
get a shot at the fleet creatures; but before they get
ready to fire, the antelopes are somewhere else. We
soon meet several men on horses, with hawks and
vultures in their hands, alive, with hoods over their
eyes. I inquire for the reason of this, and the surajee
says, “ Those are hunters who are going for the an-
telopes. They will ride as near to the creatures as
they dare, and then will remove the blinders from the
birds, and they will fly directly for the heads of the
antelopes, and will begin to pick their eyes out at
once. This confuses the animal so that the hunters
can run up to them and slay them.” They often
have great success in capturing the fleet creatures
in this manner. How true it is that there is always
something new under the sun!
· As noon approaches, Phæbus Apollo must be
enraged; for he pierces through turban and um-
brella as though they were but the thinnest gauze.
It would be most refreshing if we could halt for a
short time under some shade-tree, but no such re-
freshment is within many miles; accordingly, we
can do nothing but ride on and suffer the baking
heat. I think I now understand how it is possible to
126
BABYLON AND NINEVEH_
.
burn brick in this land by the fire of the sun. Our
horses do not appear to mind the high tempera-
ture, so they push right along; and at mid-afternoon
we arrive at Karra Thupper, glad to rest under the
shadow of a brick wall. .
In an hour I move on with a fresh recruit and an
increase of zaptiehs, who have Enfield rifles lashed
to their backs; we ride at the rate of six and seven
miles an hour. The sun has become somewhat more
propitious. We do wish that there were trees near
at hand. When living where they are plentiful,
we are not likely to appreciate them and realize
how much they add to human comfort. A native
coming from Persia joins our troop, and we ask him
why trees are not planted out here. He answers,
“We cannot afford to do that; for if we should plant
them, we should have to pay heavy taxes on them
at once." Strange that a government should knock
out its own foundation with the hammer of greed !
As excavations are made, trunks of large trees are
found many feet from the surface, showing that
formerly this country was heavily wooded. Really,
it has just the soil for growing the greatest variety
of forest-trees. Ah! we have come to something
that breaks up the monotony of the way. Here is
a little settlement. The people appear as if civili-
zation was an entire stranger to them ; it would
seem that it is their endeavor to see how little cloth-
ing they can wear. Some of the men have rings in
1
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W
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By
SCENE FROM THE “SUN-GOD” TABLET, REPRESENTING KING AND PRIESTS ADORING
THE IMAGE OF THE SUN, ABOUT B.C. 900.
FROM BAGDAD TO MOSUL.
127
the top of their ears; and the women have bunches
of brass and silver coins dangling about their noses.
In a small field close by is a giant man driving a
bit of a donkey with a thorn-bush tied to his tail
and pressed to the ground by two bricks, harrowing
in wheat. Farther on we pass a large herd of
horses grazing. Many of them are beauties and
cheap; the best of them could be purchased for
fifty or sixty dollars apiece. Some of them in
America would sell for thousands of dollars each.
To-day the flowers have been spread by the way
in profusion and blazed with the brilliancy of liveli-
est color. Cool breezes sweep down from the north-
ern mountains; what a sudden change from noon!
I find it necessary to put on an extra coat. I have
eight zaptiehs, and I can but half wish that we might
have a small surprise of about ten Kurdish highway-
men coming upon us; I should like to see what
the soldiers would do. My impression is that they
would prove themselves daring and dashing; but on
second reflection I am rejoiced that we have es-
caped all such adventures thus far. We come fre-
quently to brooks and rivers which we are obliged
to ford. Our horses prove themselves experts at
this, dashing into the stream as though it were a
luxury. Over these grounds mighty armies have
marched; no doubt that they were once familiar to
the Great Cyrus, Darius, and Alexander. We love
to associate landscapes with historic characters and
128
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
events. Were it not for this fact, Thebes by the
Nile and Palmyra in the desert would not woo the
student from afar, and charm the visitor with their
strangeness and grandeur.
An hour after sunset the three stages are accom-
plished. More than eighty miles have we rode to-day,
and are not overwearied, but are hungry for supper,
and shall soon be ready for sleep. The stars look
upon us with their friendly greetings, and seem to
say, it is well with the dear ones far, far away. I
cannot wonder that the heavenly bodies have been
worshipped; still, I think that I can appreciate the
superiority of adoring Him who made them all and
preserves them all.
Our caravansary is not large in area, but tall.
Robbers would find it hard to scale the walls. But
before daylight I am awakened by a strange thwack-
ing noise on top of the walls, as if twenty robbers
were up there; but to my surprise it turns out to be
two cranes which nest on the heights. These are
sacred birds to the Mahometans, for, it is believed,
they visit Mecca every winter; they often clack their
bills together like castanets for an hour at a time,
expressing their affection for one another. This, I
suppose, was what they were doing at three o'clock
in the morning. As soon as daylight is fairly upon
us, I can discover the nests of the cranes, containing
as much small wood as a mule could readily carry on
his back for a load. The birds must have brought
1
FROM BAGDAD TO MOSUL.
129
the timber for their house more than twenty miles.
I believe that I should need become a Moslem to
enjoy these birds and have admiration for them;
their conjugal cooing and “billing” are too much
for me.
Kuffree is the name of the village, which is in ad-
vance of any settlement we have seen since we left
Bagdad. Strange to say, there are a few palm-trees in
some of the yards. Here the people go to bed early
and rise early; so, as we are starting out, nearly an
hour before sunrise, I discover two men breaking the
ground in a field after the following manner. Their
instrument is a spade patterned from those used be-
fore the Deluge; one man crowds the blade into
the dirt, while the other, with a rope fastened to the
lower part of the handle, pulls it up, and then the
first one turns it over. At the rate they are work-
ing, it would require an age to break up an acre.
Our horses still prove excellent. We have four
guardsmen this morning. We start off at a flying
rate; we are desirous of making three stages to-day.
We skirt the foot-hills of the Kurd Mountains, whose
highest peaks are white with snow. The land in the
valleys is better cultivated than any that we have hith-
erto passed on this journey. The growing barley and
wheat must be more than sufficient to supply bread
for the sparse population. There seems to be little
danger of Malthus's theory proving true, that the
population increases faster than the food to supply
130
NINEVEH.
NTT
BABYLON AND it. The fellaheens are Kurds, who have very much
the air of European peasants. They are more indus-
trious than the Arab farmers. They are well built,
with strongly marked features, being not nearly so
polite or agreeable as the Arab, who always wears an
air of nobility, even if he is about to rob you. The
Kurds, like most Eastern people, believe in early mar-
riage and large families.
Sandstone and alabaster crop out of the hillsides.
The climate is fine, being temperate summer and
winter; the rainfall is equal to the demands of vege-
tation. We pass through several hamlets, where
most of the people bear marks of industry. There
can be no doubt that climate has much to do with
the habits of a people; the medium temperate zone,
the world round, nurtures the most active and best
characters.
The zaptiehs are on the watch lest we may be sur-
prised by the lurking Kurds, firing upon us from some
ambuscade. They have a good chance to ensconce
themselves among the hills. We cxchange horses
and guardsmen at Das Hormuttee, and then at
Thawook. As we advance, the country becomes
more level. We ford several rivers. Toward night
we overtake a dozen zaptiehs with twenty robbers
on their way to Kerkook. The captured fellows are
handcuffed; they consist of large boys and middle-
aged men. The former are hilarious; but the latter
are downcast, and realize what is ahead. The prob-
IL
UUTICU
FROM BAGDAD TO MOSUL.
131
11
L
abilities are that they are doomed to be shot. Only
those doing right in this country or any other are
safe.
We do not reach Kerkook till past midnight. Just
before we arrive in the city we ford a very large river,
-- I should judge it to be half a mile wide. After en-
tering the city, it is wallowing in filthy mire for nearly
a mile; the stench is almost unbearable. The drain-
age of the city flows into this main street. As we
arrive at the khan, we find it swarming with fleas and
mosquitoes. I can endure the latter, but I will re-
treat before the former whenever I get a chance; and
so I request my dragoman to secure a lodging in
a private house, — that means a place where we can
spread our beds. He is successful, and about two
o'clock we retire; and in less than an hour I am
taken with the real Asiatic cholera. A burning fever
sets in, and as soon as dawning comes, I send my
dragoman for a physician; but there is not one to be
found in a population of twenty thousand people.
He goes to the barracks, where there are some two
thousand soldiers, and their surgeon has gone to
another town. Then I try to secure some medi-
cine, and the dragoman cannot find a drug-shop,
or even a place where any medicine can be ob-
tained, with the exception of quinine. My cholera
medicine I had left at Bagdad, for the reason that
friends said there would be no need of that, for there
is no cholera in the north. Upon this I request
132
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
my man to take a jar and go out to the river we
forded as we were entering the city, and get some
clear water. He does as bidden, and I drink of it
and drink of it at intervals. About noon it does
seem as though I must give up. Some native Jews
and Arabs entreat to come in and see the sick
stranger. They wish to have this remedy and that
one tried, - all subterfuges, though they evidently do
not intend them as such. I persist in using the cold
water, and toward night my fever becomes somewhat
abated; and I keep on improving, so that soon I am
able to proceed. You may ask, what do the peo-
ple do here when they are sick? They submit to
jugglery and caprice, and die because it is fated to
be so.
This city sprang up because of the petroleum and
naphtha springs in the vicinity. It is really an old
town, and the oil wells have been worked for cen-
turies. Previous to the discovery of petroleum in
our country, they were working their wells with a
fair degree of success; but their process of refining
was tedious and unscientific. For the last ten years
American kerosene has been shipped to Bussorah
and Bagdad at cheaper rates than they could possibly
produce it. This has occasioned great disappoint-
ment and distress to the people of Kerkook.
As I have been out in the morning, I have seen
any quantity of manna on the grass and shrubbery;
it descends with the dew, and is somewhat granular
SA
FROM BAGDAD TO MOSUL.
133
in substance, and is of a yellowish-white and green
color. In the morning it is hard; and while in this
state, it is collected and pressed into pots, placed in
the sun, and then it melts together and becomes of
the consistency of cheese. In taste it is sweet like
honey, and is kept in the markets for sale and used
in place of butter and cheese. Quails abound here
to such an extent that the people could, for a time at
least, live on quail and manna, if there were nothing
else to be had. I can now clearly comprehend how
the Israelites in the Wilderness were supported.
When we come to know facts, how easy many diffi-
cult things are made!
The Jews are strong here, and declare themselves
descendants from the tribes of Zebulon and Naphtali,
which were brought hither by the Assyrian king,
Tiglath-Pileser. The Nestorian Christians dwelling
among the highlands, not far to the north, are said
to be of the same origin and have many views in
common with the Jews.
Near the front of the hill on which the citadel
stands is a structure containing four tombs, which are
reputed to be those of the Prophet Daniel and his
three companions, Hananiah, Azariah, and Mishael,
who were cast into the fiery furnace and came out
unscathed. The Jews and Moslems regard them
as sacred shrines and feel there can be no mistake
as to their validity. They are a great resort for the
Jews; thousands come every year long distances to
look especially upon the Prophet's tomb.
134
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
D
On leaving Kerkook, we are facing the west and
are seventy miles from Nineveh. The scenery now
becomes more varied and romantic. We are follow-
ing along the foot-hills descending from the north;
not far up from us are grand forests of hard and soft
wood. We frequently cross streams of mineral oil
where the natives are at work bagging it up to bear
it away to sell or for their own use. At Alton
Kupree we come to the first stationary bridge which
we have seen in the country. Indeed, it is a cu-
riosity! It is made of brick, perhaps brought from
old Nineveh, and spans the. Zab River, which is as
large as the Merrimac at Lowell. It is of the shape
of a steep roof to a house; its span must be seventy
feet wide, and the ridge sixty feet above the water.
We dismount and lead our animals away up and then
away down; it is a remarkable fabric, and is styled
the "Golden Bridge." It is more of a wonder in this
part of the world than is the Suspension Bridge at
Niagara Falls to Americans. No carriage has ever
passed over it. Sultan Murad caused it to be built in
1638 in honor of his victory over the Persians.
It does seem inexpressibly refreshing to get into
the region of clear, flowing rivers, singing brooks, and
spreading trees. Here and there we scare up larks
from their feeding-places; they soar, pour out sweet-
est melodies, and drop into tree-tops, swaying as the
breezes move the twigs. I hear occasionally quails
piping from their hiding-places, and others responding
with a sharp whistle from copse or hill. The skies

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​THE GOLDEN BRIDGE
FROM BAGDAD TO MOSUL.'
135
1
are overcast in spots with cirrus and cumulus clouds.
Dark thunder-heads roll up from the west, as if to
challenge the sun to battle. How much there is here
to remind me of sweet home and dear New England !
The holiest memories are recalled by earth, air, and
sky. The darling past is rendered a delightful pres-
ent! This recalling and re-growth are largely due to
the natural environments.
Coming to a large open plain, in the distance we
can see Arbela, crowned with its grand citadel. In
the distance it does present an imposing appearance,
and becomes all the more attractive because so clothed
with history and association. It was here that a
great battle occurred in 331 B.C. between Alexander
and Darius. The former had only forty thousand foot
soldiers and seven thousand cavalry; while the latter
had one million of infantry and forty thousand horse-
inen. The odds were great; but the Macedonian
gained the victory and changed the destinies of the
Eastern world. Here brains were pitted against
brawn, as on the plains of Marathon. The mental
is mightier than the physical.
Reaching the city of ten thousand inhabitants, we
find it clustering around the citadel, which is naturally
more imposing than the Acropolis of Athens or
Corinth. The citadel is occupied mainly by Turkish
soldiers. The Jews are numerous and strongly
wedded to the town, though they have no prophet's
• tomb here before which to bow in reverence. There
136
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
are some antiquities in the way of columns and carved
stones, which were brought hither from Nineveh.
More style and thrift are manifested than I have
seen since leaving Bagdad. The surrounding coun-
try is devoted to farming. The Kurds who till
the land are doing their best in growing wheat,
barley, and maize. We fare well, meeting with kind-
est treatment, discovering no signs of extortion or
clutching unjustly from strangers. Our khan is
under the charge of a Chaldæan Christian and wife.
They are delighted with my dragoman, mostly from
the fact that he is of the same religious faith; they
are kindly people, proving themselves followers of
the Master by their fruits.
In seven hours from Arbela we arrive at the Great
Zab River. No bridge is here, as there was at the Little
Zab. The water is deep and running swiftly. Many
people are waiting to cross; the transfer is effected
by a rickety flat-bottomed boat, propelled by half a
dozen nude Kurdsmen, with a capacity to carry over at
once some thirty individuals with half as many horses.
To get across, the boat is pushed up the side of the
river for half a mile, the propellers wading and push-
ing with their might, and then they jump on board,
and with rudest oars they push strong and quick; but
the current bears the boat rapidly down the stream,
and so instead of striking the landing-place, we are
borne half a mile below it. Now comes another tug
at pushing up the opposite side to the landing; it
Ty
FROM BAGDAD TO MOSUL.
137
11
has used up an hour in getting over a river some
four hundred feet wide. But the finality is harder
than the beginning, which is settling the toll; the
stipulated fare for strangers is to get from them all
that is possible, the collector saying all the while
that he is doing this by the authority of the govern-
ment. It costs me a sovereign before I can step
upon the terra-firma of the opposite shore. I am
glad to get out of the clutches of these schemers even
for that. The natives cross for a few piasters. The
love of money in this country is as big a root of evil
as anywhere else.
Upon the west side of the river is a stirring village
and well built for this country. Its occupants are
peasants, and largely devoted at present to ploughing
and sowing; they wish to plant their crops so as to
garner them the last of April or the first of May.
After harvest they vacate their houses, and all start
out with their tents and animals for the north, camp-
ing and living in the open country till cold weather
begins to set in, and then they return to their per-
manent homes. They are introducing some farming
implements from the West. It is truly a beautiful
country. As the day is waning, a dash of a shower
strikes us. This is our first experience of getting
wet in the country by falling water. It puts a damper
upon our progress; and so as we come to a little
village, we decide to tarry in it for the night, if we
· can secure a chance to spread our beds. The village
138
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
1
contains no caravansary; accordingly, we direct our
course to the coffee-house. Such a place is sure to
exist in all the hamlets; for it is the publishing-house
where the news is dispensed to the people. On
reaching it, inquiry is made if we can be accommo-
dated, as our wants are made known; without urg-
ing, the man in charge answers affirmatively. Upon
this, one corner of the coffee-room is cleared of men
and traps, and my bed is spread at once; and I lie
down, weak and weary. The room is some twenty
feet square, and there is an adjoining one still larger,
which is occupied by camels and horses. A fire is
in the centre of ours, supported by sheep-droppings
and surrounded by some thirty men. On the fire is
a large earthen jar containing water; and in this is a
smaller one containing coffee, which is poured into
small brown cups. Each man takes a cup, for which
he pays a pares. While the sipping of the coffee
is going on, the chief of the establishment is relating
the news and wonders of the day. He did the same
thing last evening, - so he does every evening, --
spending from one to two hours with his patrons,
and then they repair to their homes. The principal
topic of news to-night centres on the stranger, and so
they ask of my servant many questions as to myself:
whence I came, whither I am going, what I am after,
where I carry my money, and what are ny weapons.
Upon this the dragoman makes exhibition of his pis-
tol with a deal of splurge, and wishes me to show
TY
FROM BAGDAD TO MOSUL.
139
-
-
my Wesson; but I reply by letting them hear the
noise of mine as I discharge it through an opening
in the roof. As I do so, the eyes of the lookers-on
stare with amazement; and as I see their surprise,
I recall the emotions of Lamb when he said, “ The
greatest pleasure I know is to do a good action by
stealth, and to have it found out by accident."
At nine o'clock the coffee-drinkers all disappear;
and the proprietor couches himself very soon by the
fire, and in ten minutes is snoring so loud as to drown
the noise of the camels and cows in the adjoining
stable. It is not long before I become unconscious of
thé vigils of the night; and as morning calls to duty,
I feel equal to a ride of eight hours into Mosul.
As soon as we can make ready, we are on the way.
The morning is glowing with promise. The horses
are almost antic, though they are the same we last
rode yesterday. Anticipation may affect them as
well as their riders. My dragoman is filled with joy
because he is going to his native place, which he has
not seen for thirty years; and I have wished for forty
years to look upon the site of old Nineveh. I may
be somewhat in the condition of Hazlitt, who wanted
one thing to make himself happy; but in wanting that,
he wanted everything. We now have views of grand
mountains. Far in the distance I discover a lofty
snow-capped peak. My dragoman exclaims, “Ara-
rat!” Well, the thought strikes me, if it were the
same when the ark rested upon it, the patriarch
1
140
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
Noah must have had a severe experience in leading
out and down the mountain his vast retinue of mated
creatures, particularly those that had been accus-
tomed to a hot climate.
The hills and flanks of the mountains are heavily
wooded with cedars, oaks, cypresses, and other de-
ciduous trees. The streams we cross are in places
bordered with oleanders and acacias. The scenery is
becoming greatly diversified Mounds and ledgy
bluffs rise abruptly from the plains; shadows play
about the mountain-slopes. At two o'clock we are.
riding among broken heaps, thirty, forty, and seventy
feet high. These are ruins of the wall about Nine-
veh. Just now we are hailed by a horseman who
inquires if there is an American in the party. As
he is answered affirmatively, a letter is put into my
hand, dated at Mosul, reading as follows:-
DEAR SIR,— I have been informed by telegram that you
are an American bound for this city; and so I take this way to
extend to you a cordial invitation to come right to my house
and make it your home while in this region.
Most cordially yours,
AMERICAN MISSIONARY.
This message comes like a missive from heaven to
a weary pilgrim seeking rest. For hours I ride on
with a light heart and great wonderment, as I observe
the immense piles of debris. Xenophon and Alex-
ander rode over these grounds and did not mistrust
FROM BAGDAD TO MOSUL.
141
TV1
that once there stood here one of the most influential
cities of the world. At length we once more come
to the Tigris. A long bridge of stone and brick with
many arches did formerly span this river to Mosul;
but the portion over the swiftest current has been
washed away, rendering it impassable; so we cross
on a bridge of boats. No sooner does my horse step
upon the western bank than I am warmly greeted by
the American missionary, whose face reveals a good
mind and noble heart; so right to his home I am
conducted, where I am greeted and welcomed by
his loyal wife and two beautiful children. Here I
enjoy a true American 'home.
Mosul stands at the head of navigation on the
Tigris. At present it is an important town in this
region, controlling twelve thousand square miles of
territory. Its leading business consists in producing
silks and leather, and dealing largely in wool, grains,
furs, and manna. It is surrounded by brick walls
five miles in extent; its houses are also constructed
of ancient brick, from one to three stories high, and
so arranged as to guard against extremes of heat and
cold. The site on which the city stands inclines to
the river, offering a good opportunity for perfect
drainage, which is not improved. The streets are
narrow, uneven, and unclean, affording little oppor-
tunity for the half-dozen new hacks from England
which are trying to run where there is no road for
them; accordingly, they are used mainly where there
142
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
(
are no buildings nor streets. They are things to be
looked at and wondered at by the natives. This is
a thoroughly Oriental city in style and character,
having a population of fifty thousand, made up of
Arabs, Chaldæans, Armenians, and Persians. The
people are divided religiously into Mahometans and
Christians. The Chaldæan sect is very influential;
the Catholics have gained a sure footing; the Protest*
ants are putting forth new efforts to establish a
mission; the present signs indicate success. Mis-
sionaries hitherto have been driven away, especially
those from our country, by plague and contagion,
which ought not to exist, for Nature here is con-
ducive to health, according to statistics. The women
are fond of bright colors and gaudy ornaments; they
stain their lips blue and red. The living is extremely
cheap; as much bread can be bought for a farthing
as for two pence in Constantinople, or four pence in
London. They subsist largely upon bread made into
wafers fourteen inches in diameter. An average-sized
man, and most of them are large, will eat a pile of
them a foot high at one meal. Sour milk is their
delight as a beverage, and onions are as sweet mor-
sels to their taste.
The many here are hacking at the branches of evil,
while but few are striking death at its root. Fashion
rules as in other communities. Should one attempt to
live and dress according to the rules of common-sense,
he would soon be judged possessed of a demon and
FROM BAGDAD TO MOSUL.
143
cast into prison. So it is, — we discover the good and
bad wherever we go, but I have come to the conclusion
that good and bad men are each less so than they
seem. I am persuaded that Coleridge was right
when he said, “As there is much beast and some
devil in man, so is there some angel and some God
in man.” We ought to be careful in our judgments,
for first impressions are likely to deceive. The first
sight of Niagara is liable to disappoint. Many a
visitor to the Vatican has been through all the art
rooms, and then has been known, on being dismissed,
to ask for the works of Raphael, and could not believe
that he had looked upon them all.
But the last with us here cannot be first, so we will
part with the modern and seek the antiquated.
XI.
NINEVEH.
TLD ruins have a fascination brooding about
them, else pilgrims from afar would not seek
them, or people take up their abode among them, as
at Memphis, Thebes, Babylon, and Nineveh. If the
new is not built over the old, the former is generally
in full view of the latter. Thus it is with Mosul; it
looks just across the river upon the ruins of a grand
city. Let us then leave the new and advance to the
ancient. There is a delight in looking upon spots
and lands where history has been made. We long
to see where man has been, what he has done, and
whither he is tending. We are anxious to know how
man has hurried after man, and generation after
generation, through a long-trodden yet bosky laby-
rinth. We know strange mutations are now going
on and have been taking place for unknown periods.
Tradition is clothed with mystery, yet we feel there
is a lurking cause behind it, and would rejoice to
have it brought out of Cimmerian darkness into the
broadest daylight, that it may be read and enjoyed
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NINEVEH.
145
by all who would know the past in order the better
to interpret the future.
We recross the Tigris, whose tide is swelling
rapidly, because of the rains and melting of the
snows on the mountains. We now scan more care-
fully the long bridge of many arches, made from an-
tique material. Some of the bricks and stones retain
the names of ancient kings. As soon as we reach
the opposite bank, we are within the limits of the old
city. Ah, we can but realize as we survey the moun-
tains to the north, the towering hills to the northeast,
the broad plains to the east and south, and the Ti-
gris and gradually rising lands to the west, that this
was an inviting site for a magnificent city! The
landscape is now fresh and fair, and as I ride along, I
am almost disposed to join with the birds in singing
in the clear sunlight; but in spite of outward beauty,
solemnity subdues the heart, as I recall how the strong
have perished, and the millions who once dwelt here
have fallen and disappeared. Proceeding for miles
up the river, we would little dream from outward
appearance that human life had ever swarmed here.
When ten miles away, we find ourselves by an enor-
mous mound known as Khorsabad. Inspecting the
exterior, we would infer that it is a mere accumulation
of richest soil, from the grass and flowers growing upon
it. We ascend to the top, and there is nothing dis-
coverable at present, implying that treasures are still
buried within; nevertheless, in 1842–44 Botta caused
LY
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146
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
shafts to be put down, and under us he came upon
the ruins of the palace of Shalmaneser. It must
have been a splendid structure, judging from the
sculptures, the hieroglyphics, the paintings, and the
strange figures cut from black stone, - part man,
part bird, and part lion or bull. With difficulty he
prosecuted the work, for the natives, moved by super-
stition, harassed him; and when he had rescued many
treasures from the deep grave of the past, it was with
the utmost difficulty that he could get them trans-
ported even to Mosul. Comparatively speaking, this
French savant and wandering scholar scarcely began
to explore this great mass of stone and sunburnt brick;
since he secured so many wonders, what would not be
discovered, if the whole debris should be upturned ?
It is evident that this palace was in the extreme
northern part of the city. Along the bank of the
river are traces of a dike of solid masonry extending
south some twenty miles.
Turning our course southward, we ride among the
wastes wrapped in greenest garb and exciting nys-
tery, listening to a native who is well informed and
intensely interested in the ruins, and so burdened
with vague traditions and thrilling stories as to what
stood here and what stood there, that he is doing his
utmost to relieve his mind and afford us pleasure.
He pictures an ancient capital of fabulous splendor
and magnitude, encompassed by grandest ramparts.
Almost too soon under the fiery heat of mid-after-
noon do we reach Kouyunjik, — an enormous mound
NINEVEH.
147
eight thousand feet in circuit and fifty feet high. As
we climb its steep sides upon the green sward, bril-
liant colors and sweetest odors greet us. Walking
about, we find occasional openings revealing walls of
brick and stone, which have been brought to light
from their long interment by Botta, Layard, Rawlin-
son, and Rassam, all done since 1841; still, the mass
appears as though it had been but slightly disturbed,
yet as I went through the Nineveh halls in the British
Museum, the Louvre of Paris, and the Old Museum of
Berlin, I could but imagine that the ruins of this city
had been generally overturned. In them I saw tab-
lets, cylinders, slabs, winged lions, human-headed
bulls, and monuments which show conclusively that
the regal residence of Sennacherib stood beneath our
feet, which afterward was improved and converted
into the palace of Assur-bani-pal. We can see walls
of halls and rooms which were lined with porcelain
tiles, slabs of marble and alabaster carved with battle-
scenes and victorious triumphs. From these we learn
that Nineveh was a martial city, building itself up out
of the spoils of conquered cities. Like Napoleon in
the picture gallery of Versailles, the monarch would
make the greatest display of his achievements, exhib-
iting upon the slabs soldiers marching with scar-
let shields and glittering spears, chariots gaudily
trimmed, drawn by furious steeds and driven by
bravest horsemen.
Other scenes represent the king in his palace gar-
148
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
den of exotic trees and plants, banqueting with his
queen; musicians are present, adding joy to the
occasion.
On sculptures still remaining as they were placed
centuries ago, is pictured the rural life, representing
the peasant sowing the seed and gleaning the harvest.
Soldiers were held in high repute and merchants too,
and so they figure prominently on these marbles.
The palace stood upon a prodigious artificial mound
covering many acres and requiring twenty thousand
men six years to raise and prepare it for the founda-
tion of the palace. The palace itself was one of the
grandest structures, having halls one and two hundred
feet long and proportionally wide and high, with fac-
ings of variegated enamelled brick and floors of marble
inlaid with metal arabesques. In this building was that
first great library of the world whose books were of
stone, many of which had been brought from Accad
and Erech by Assur-bani-pal; and fourteen hundred
of them were discovered here but a few years since
by Rassam, and are now in the British Museum.
Among these is a copy of the Accadian laws, the
oldest code yet known.
It seems that the Assyrians preserved their dates
by naming each year after some notable official.
This was in practice 1000 B. C. The revelation of
this calendar of names, and therefore of the years,
is one of the greatest discoveries of modern times.
These tablets give the value of real estate, and how
NINEVEH.
149
a house was sold for forty-five dollars, and that the
rate of interest 700 B. C. was four per cent. Some of
the inscriptions are written so fine that it is necessary
to use a magnifying-glass to read them, implying
that those who wrote them must have used lenses.
Many articles of stone, glass, wood, ivory, and
metals have been taken from these vaults with the
inscriptions of Jehu, Menahem, Hezekiah, Omri,
Hazael, and Sennacherib. One of the tablets con-
tains Sennacherib's own account of his invasion of
Palestine and of the tribute exacted of Hezekiah,
corresponding with the Scripture account. But the
half has not been told yet; for the half has not
been brought to light.
Two hundred rods to the south of Kouyunjik is
another artificial hill, called the tomb of Jonah. No
records have come to light yet confirming the tra-
dition. No thorough examination of it has been
made. When it shall have been upturned, no doubt
wonderful things will be revealed. There is trifling
chance to question the fact that the Prophet Jonah
came to Nineveh when it was in its highest prosperity,
800 B, C., and that there was a demand for his warn-
ing, because it was so much given to luxury and vain-
glory. It is not singular that the prophet should
have shrunk from entering the city, for it is reported
to have had then a hundred and twenty thousand
children, and so must have had a million of inhabit-
ants. Among these were many thousand soldiers
150
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
who were noted for their power, cruelty, and de-
termination to destroy all enemies. Night being
close upon us, we return to Mosul.
Early in the morning of another day I take a fresh
start for the ruins in the extreme southern part of
the old city. On our way the eye rests upon many
objects of interest, and plainly enough remnants of
the old city. Imagination builds more than air-
castles. Coming to blocks of stone, we are soon
made satisfied that they were pavements to some
street over which chariot-wheels had run so as to
leave their grooves. In two and a half hours we ar-
rive at the loftiest pile of all connected with the
ruins. This is Nimroud, and was named by Xeno-
phon, as he marched by it, Larissa. The great
general did not even surmise that mighty Nineveh
took its rise here. At present such stillness and
solitariness hang about it that one can scarcely
think of its ever having been a centre of activity
and highest life. Nature has thrown over it a carpet
of green, setting its surface thick with blossoms of
gold, pink, and purple. Larks and chats are sending
forth, not requiems of sadness, but carols of joy. In
the distance I can see the black tents of a Bedouin
tribe. Ascending the mound, that is more than
seventy feet high, not a stone nor a brick is visible.
In the summer this platform, I infer, would be seared
and parched. As I look around, it seems hardly
possible that we are over the oldest portion of an-
LI
NINEVEH.
151
X
cient Nineveh; that under us is the site where Ninus,
the Assyrian monarch, 2059 B. C., reigned and set
up a throne where thirty-six kings ruled in succes-
sion after him. Before it, Semiramis bowed in ad-
miration. Under Ashur it became a grand city,
having gardens, parks, bronze gates, and groves,
multiplying its merchants above the stars. Within
its limits was a pyramid of stone, one hundred feet
square at the base and two hundred feet in altitude.
Sculptures have been taken out from beneath us
whose dates reach back 3000 B. C. Well, it was
' right here that Layard put down shafts and took
out vast blocks of sandstone and marbles beautifully
carved with bas-reliefs and inscribed with an un-
known language, ivories cut into the most exquisite
shapes, and metals moulded into rarest forms, and
gold-leaf lodged in crumbling pottery, and books
of brick. The pile plainly has not been thoroughly
examined, still the archæologist has opened up cunei-
form tablets and cylinders which give the history of
the city, whose walls were in the form of a parallelo-
gram sixty miles in extent, a hundred feet high, and
seventy-five feet wide at the base; its length was
twice its width. It was a superb city.
But great Nineveh has fallen! The city that
gloried in its physical power, symbolizing it by
the intellect of man, the flight of birds, and the
strength of the lion and the bull, and therefore
guarded the entrances to its palaces and temples by
152
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
717
huge sphinxes embodying these three forces, has
vanished; and its forlorn site is turned into a pasture
for beasts and birds. So great cities do become
buried in the dust, as well as the bodies of men, yet
the character of the former survives, as well as that
of the latter.
The pictures of Nineveh, as painted by Ezekiel,
Jonah, and Nahum, are shaded with darkest colors,
but confirmed as true by recent discoveries.
The remains of this city far exceed my most san-
guine expectation; however, it is to be regretted
that further explorations are not being pushed for-
ward. The world needs the knowledge hidden in
these recesses of brick and stone. We have already
learned from their disclosures that there were schol-
ars in astronomy and geometry long before Homer
sung or Euclid taught. Then, too, we have been
informed of devout worshippers before Moses de-
scended from Sinai, or David struck his harp.
As the history of the race is made known, we see
how it has been preserved, though generation after
generation has come and gone, showing that a divine
hand has been leading onward and upward. Nations
have flourished and afterward perished ; and lookers-
on have inferred that the world at large is losing
ground. But taking a general view and averaging
the whole, it is seen to be far otherwise. Thus we
ascertain that the present is ahead of the past;
that it is a greater thing to conceive and construct
NINEVEH.
153
a steam-engine, telegraph, or telephone than to im-
agine and build the pyramid of Cheops, the tower
of Babel, or the palace of Sennacherib. It is far
nobler to worship God in spirit, as a Father, than to
adore the sun or reverence Jehovah through fear.
It is to be lamented that the progress of knowledge
and the advance of archæology should be impeded
by a selfish government and a half-barbarous people.
Were Turkey favorable to real culture, how soon
the knowledge of the past, which has been shut up
for ages in the ruins of this old city and of Babylon,
would be brought to light, so that the present gen-
eration could take advantage of the fortunes and
misfortunes of the dwellers in these ancient cities,
and thus be enabled to run the faster for the goal of
highest thinking and highest doing!
XII.
FROM MOSUL TO BUSSORAH.
M Y stay in Mosul has been delightful both be-
V1 cause of the Christian comforts of an Amer-
ican home and the opportunity of examining the
ruins of one of the oldest and most important cities
the world has ever seen; and, furthermore, because
I have received good tidings from the far-off and
dearest home. What blessings the postal system
and telegraph of modern civilization are! It is now
difficult to understand how the world ever got on
without them. Who does not prefer to live in the
present to any previous age?
My dragoman says he has enjoyed every moment
spent here amid the scenes of his early life. He has
met two brothers whom he had not seen for many
years. One of them is a Chaldæan priest who has a
charge a few miles from Mosul. My dragoman took
much pleasure in introducing him to me. I should
judge from his size that he might be kin to Goliath;
but his heart seems tender and loving, and so all the
better for being big.
III
FROM MOSUL TO BUSSORAH.
155
The only structures in this city that I have seen
which are worthy to be called beautiful are the
mosques; but these are in no wise so beautiful as to
demand that the right hand of the architect should
be struck off, lest he might reproduce the work in
some other city, as was the case in Cairo, Egypt.
I have decided to return to Bagdad by the river,
so I have ordered a raft to be made out of one hun-
dred and forty inflated goat-skins, being tied together
and covered with pieces of buttonwood eight inches
in diameter. A little house is to be erected in the
centre, with standards of wood covered with canvas
and roofed with water-proof cloth. The raft is to be
manned by one steersman. I am to pay fifteen
dollars for it, which includes only the use of the skins,
but the house and timber I am to dispose of when I
reach Bagdad.
The day before I was to start, a merchant of the
city asked me if he could send by me two boxes of
furs to Bagdad, and furthermore asked if three men
who had been at work for him could not accompany
me, for his brother wanted their service. He assured
me that they were kind, good men who would do all
they could to aid me on my voyage. I said to him
that I was willing to comply with his requests, if my
raft were equal to the extra burden. “Oh,” he replied,
“I wish to add twenty-five extra skins.” So I will-
ingly consented.
On a Friday morning, the Moslems' fortunate dawn-
156
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
ing and day, having reluctantly bid adieu to the kind
friends of Mosul, we step on board our raft, finding
men, rations, and house all ready for departure. The
Tigris is high and the current strong. Usually it
takes from six to eight days to make the trip. All
the Mosulites, I should judge, are upon the embank-
ment to see us off. The signal is given; the moor-
ings are cut; and away we go, waving a final “ God
bless you" to all who had proved themselves friends
indeed. The water bears us so high that our last
look upon the ruins and surroundings of Nineveh
is all we could desire. Henceforth its location will
not be a thing of fancy, but of fact. What I am
bearing away is worth a thousand-fold more than all
it has cost me. The earth, air, and sky have been
lavish of their bestowments. It does seem to me
that Nature is generous enough here to render this a
fit place for another marvellous city. We dare not
even surmise what travellers may see here a thou-
sand years hence.
Our raft is kept in the middle of the stream, and
onward we are borne at the rate of six miles an hour.
Our pilot is proving himself faithful and equal to his
duty. All on board are merry and hopeful, hurrying
on without any hard work and with little fear of
banditti. Really, there is a deal of romance in this
mode of travelling. If our craft does not express
comeliness of form, it does manifest beauty of
motion.
FROM MOSUL TO BUSSORAH.
157
11
I no longer wonder that water has been worshipped
as a god. What a mystery there is about it! Who
can explain how and why two invisible gases should
so unite as to give this element which can be cooled
into ice or heated into vapor; which scarfs lofti-
est summits with snow and hangs rainbows over
cataracts; which levels the hills and fills the valleys;
which suspends jewels on the clover and brilliants
from branchlets in the winter? It is bound to find its
equilibrium, so downward it rushes from heights and
highlands to ocean in rain, rillets, and rivers. Its
atoms, globules, and masses are constantly sinking
and rising and rolling. It surely illustrates perpetual
motion.
This river, though four hundred feet wide on an
average, as we see it, and perhaps six feet deep,
would not be called now, as in old Bible times, one of
the Great Rivers; for it is but an infant compared to
the Mississippi or the Amazon. I observe, however,
that it likes to lean on one side. It seems deter-
mined not to have its channel deepest most of the
way in the middle. It runs to one bank to sun, and
then to the other to cool; upon one shore it is deep
and upon the other shallow. It is like a wise man, who
keeps up one side of life for work and the other for play,
taking deep counsel here, and hilarious ease there.
The sun signalled twelve half an hour ago, and we
are some forty miles from Mosul. Our raft is made
fast to the right bank. My dragoman and Mosul
1
158
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
men spring upon shore, and we wander for a mile
back amid desolation and solitude, seeking for a
mound which was somewhat explored more than a
score of years ago by Layard and Rassam. My
search is very unlike many an experience in Greece
or Asia Minor, where I could see in the distance a
prospective object rising above the thick foliage of
myrtle, oleander, or cypress; or in Egypt, where I
would ride miles across dreary wastes of sand, the
eye resting upon monolith, temple, or pyramid, cer-
tain of the object in pursuit. But now all is doubt-
ful; there are heaps enough, but nothing to show
traces of human action. In spite of me, strange
emotions crowd the heart as I look upon these
mounds, thinking that probably they were heaped up
by Assyrian hands more than three thousand years
ago. In the course of an hour's search, we hit upon
the right mound. It covers over an area of several
acres. This is believed to mark the site of Kaleh
Shergot, or ancient Caleh, once the proud capital of
Assyria. It was an old city when Nineveh was built.
Possibly a grand city stood here before the Deluge.
Here are the vaults whence the archæologists took
out human-headed and winged lions and bulls, whose
faces bore calmest expression of thought and free-
dom, a beautiful black column of stone, slabs of
marble carved with figures of kings attired in robes
with costly trimmings and adorned with armlets of
elegant design. These sculptures were in the best
FROM MOSUL TO BUSSORAH.
159
state of preservation. When the natives saw them,
it is said that they would snatch off their keffiahs
and cry aloud, “It is not the work of man's hands!
There is no god but God!” These treasures were
transferred to the British Museum, where they are to
be seen at the present time.
When further researches shall take place, we feel
that greater discoveries will be made than those
already rescued from the tomb of a buried pal-
ace of kingly trappings and handicrafts of a lost
civilization.
The oldest things nowadays appear to be the newest.
This science and archæology are proving true. Our
object gained, we return to the raft with light step
and grateful heart that we now know more of geog-
raphy, topography, and antiquity than we did tuo
hours since.
When all are once more on board, the ropes are
cut, and a few pushes with the long pole send us into
the middle of the stream, and downward we smoothly
glide. Broad plains on either hand are flashing with
green and gold; flowers star the dark foliage of the
shrubbery along the low embankments. A gentle
breeze comes from the east, burdened as with the
fragrance of the gardens by the Caspian Sea, or
with the rose-secrets of Shiraz. Water-birds, from
small to large, are full of antics in the river, and are
cutting all manner of geometric figures overhead.
They do not convey the idea that they know the sig-
160
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
nificance of fire-arms. Occasionally a cold stratum of
air falls as if it had been pierced by snowy pinnacles
and then hurled suddenly upon us. As the brilliant
afternoon is melting into the tenderness of evening,
we draw up at Tekrit, - a village on the edge of the
Plain of Dura, the birthplace of Saladin, born
A. D. 1137. Almost as quick as thought the vil-
lagers are leaning, or squatting, on the embank-
ment with torches lighted. Nargilehs are bubbling,
and sour inilk is offered in abundance for sale.
Altogether they present a dingy, mottled, beggarly,
and ludicrous scene. They express greater surprise
at seeing our crude conveyance than the New York-
ers would at a leviathan steamer coming into port.
However, I cannot regard a town which has pro-
duced a great man as mean; for such was Saladin,
who proved himself the Napoleon of the Saracens.
I can but recall the feeling which I had at Tell-
Hattin, Galilee, where he gained a signal victory
over the Crusaders; how that after the conflict he
was merciless toward the captives, and struck down
with his sword the brave knight, Raynald of Châtillon.
He swept away nearly all the Templars, almost anni-
hilated Jerusalem, and made fast the Moslem yoke to
Palestine. He proved himself the greatest and the
bravest of the Saracens, - more a warrior of the flesh
than of the spirit; he does not live, like Washington
or Paul.
Our steersman leaves us here, and a new one takes
III
FROM MOSU
TO BUSSORAH.
FROM MOSUL TO BUSSORAH. 161
his place; still, the old one is loath to leave till he
gets a pile of buckshish. Well, the poor fellow
ought not to be obliged to foot it back to Mosul -
a distance of more than a hundred miles — without
some pocket-money and a consciousness of fair
compensation.
As our pilot puts us on the move, the sun is setting
and the moon is rising full, rendering the night like
the day, so that we are ready to have our barge float
on under the light of Luna and the stars.
My dragoman has replenished our larder by adding
fresh eggs and a gallon of new milk. Just outside
of the city the camping-ground of the Ten Thousand
after the battle of Cunaxa is pointed out, — not to be
recalled as a place of beauty, but one of historic
interest. Wherever the brave Greeks wrought, the
ground is bound to be memorable. How Marathon,
Leuctra, and Thermopylæ stir the blood! Neptune
is propitious as we sail on; and Somnus soon lulls
to sleep and holds us till the dawning, when to our
joy we learn that the river has borne us on fifty miles
while enfolded on its bosom in unconsciousness. We
have awakened at the right time to see not far to
the east the field where the Romans were defeated,
A. D. 363, by Sapor, King of Persia, when Julian was
killed and Jovian was elected emperor.
Up to noon of this day, wind and wave have been
favorable, and we have been feeling that in less than
four days from Mosul we shall be landed in Bagdad.
V
II
162
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
D
But of a sudden, as the sun crosses the midday line,
the wind shifts, blowing burning hot from the south,
and dark cumulus-clouds roll up and speedily hide
the sun. Chain and forked lightning shoot from
cloud to cloud. The distant thunder rumbles and
peals. The wind becomes furious, striking us directly
in the face, lifting up billows four and five feet high.
We take to the shore as soon as possible, with goat-
skins badly shattered and my dwelling all awry. The
house, trunks, and timbers are quickly removed and
placed on the embankment ten feet above the water.
The gale now is wild, — full of jerks and quirks. So
here we are on the'rim of a vast plain with no pro-
tection but my wee domicile. We all take advan-
tage of it as best we can; but the wind pierces
through it as if it were mere lattice-work. Fortunate
for us there is no raininess as yet; still, the elements
are dreadfully mad. Such lightning and such thun-
der I have never experienced before. If in olden
time they had such storms, it is no wonder that the
ancients felt the gods were enraged, shooting heav-
iest bolts at the disobedient. From Sunday after-
noon till Wednesday morning there is scarcely any
abatement of the storm. The heavens are dark in
the day as well as in the night, except when the mist
is set ablaze with electric currents. Some of the
time it has been hot and then cold, as though really
Vulcan and Boreas were taking turns in melting and
freezing poor mortals. I experienced an Alpine
C
FROM MOSUL -
163
TO BUSSORAH.
thunder-storm some years ago, which I felt to be
the climax of electric phenomena; but here is a
Jupiter more mighty in charging and discharging
the cloud-batteries than any I witnessed among the
heights of Switzerland.
No sooner is the storm over than a calm is upon
us. Now comes a busy time, in blowing up the goat-
skins, re-adjusting the timber, loading the boxes, and
placing my residence upon its original foundation.
The sun smiles, the river is smooth, and in the dis-
tance we can see, as our boat swims off, the palm-trees
about the Caliph city. We are no longer sorry for
the hindrance, for tearing adversity has given place
to soothing prosperity. A pandemonium has been ex-
changed for an elysium. As we reflect, we learn that
suffering and self-sacrifice develop character far more
than joy and selfishness. Why this is so, ethics fail
to explain. But after the turmoil God's providence
is so caressing, we can but submit and acknowledge
that all his doings work toward the highest life.
Sailing along, my steersman points to a white tower
far out upon the western plain, which rises to a con-
siderable height, as a Mahometan tomb, marking the
spot where tradition affirms that Nebuchadnezzar set
up the Golden Image; stranger things than that have
occurred, so we will not question the legend.
The current pushes us rapidly on; and before the
sun casts long shadows, we are fast approaching old
Bagdad, where we halt and go on shore to survey
164
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
Akarkouf, - a singular pile of brick, a hundred and
thirty feet high and three hundred in circumference.
The bricks are cemented together with bitumen and
reeds. Square holes penetrate the solid-pillared struc-
ture. The mass stands apparently upon other ruins.
It is believed that Akarkouf is the last vestige of a
great Babylonian city. There are signs of a canal
which once ran from the Euphrates to the Tigris near
it. This structure is usually called Tell-Nimroud;
and it is inferred that Akarkouf is really the name of
the old city. No doubt the pile was once crowned
with a temple to the sun and an observatory for
watching the night-heavens.
Passing down the river six miles, we stop at Kas-
main, which is greatly venerated because Imaum
Moussa Kazim and Imaum Toukah were buried
here. They were holy Mahometans, and their
tombs are visited by tens of thousands annually.
The demand for conveyance hither has been so great
that a horse railroad has been constructed from Bag-
dad to this place, a distance of four miles. Wherein
these tombs are lacking beauty, it is made up by
investing large sums of money in them. Billions of
dollars have been expended in honoring the graves
of these notables.
Another memorial, a short distance from these, is
that of Zobiede, the beautiful queen of Haroun-al-
Raschid, who is especially eulogized and extolled in
the “ Arabian Nights." The body of the tomb is

TELL-NIMRUD, THE RUINS OF A TEMPLE NEAR OLD BAGDAD.
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​FROM MOSUL TO BUSSORAH.
165
IT
VV
octagonal, and crowned with a high cone having the
semblance of a pineapple. The height of the whole
is seventy feet, and really does not express taste or
beauty. It was made of bricks, which are crumbling
into decay. Probably this was built in the centre of
old Bagdad; but the ancient city has disappeared,
and the new has sprung up mainly on the opposite
side of the river, leaving the resting-place of the ad-
mired queen quite solitary. Thus it is the world over,
— the outward fades and becomes gray, and too often
neglected, showing that a people or nation is on the
decline when neglecting and forgetting the graves
and mausoleums of its dead.
I now return to my raft for the last time, and on-
ward we move to Bagdad, coming first into the hands
of custom-house officers, who demand toll, as the
bridge of boats is separated to allow us to pass, and
then they demand much money as we enter the port;
the former I pay willingly, and the latter under pro-
test, to rid myself of the pests. Now once more I
enter the City of the Caliphs at the setting of the
sun, just as the muezzin is ringing out the call for
prayer, which is the knell of the Moslem land. The
place seems more than ever embowered in orange
and palm groves. It is refreshing to look upon
vinal balconies overhanging the water. My house
and lumber are at once disposed of at full value, the
demand being equal to the supply of such material.
As the golden tints of day are fading from the
166
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
zenith, the good-by is spoken to the faithful Sara-
cen friends, buckshish is dropped into the hand of
my steersman, and now, my dragoman taking my
bed and trappings, we shortly climb to the residence
which I left three weeks since. The ruins of Nine-
veh are no longer a dream, but a memory. The trials
and hardships undergone are only dark shades to
give the picture a more perfect and lasting setting
in the future. Sharp contrasts are essential to vivid-
ness of expression. The Upper Tigris henceforth will
live in my thought, and therefore is my possession,
without depriving any one else of rightful ownership;
according to the law that if the world globe itself in
a drop of dew for the ten-thousandth time, it is none
the less; so, howsoever much is borne off mentally
does not diminish the pile. Nature's bank never
fails, always allowing one to draw out what he puts
in, with interest. Let one be pushed, thwarted, and
smitten, and he will keep wide awake; but let him
be rocked in the cradle of easy-go-easy, and he will
fall asleep and lose golden opportunities.
During my absence from Bagdad Professor Budge
has been fortunate in discovering some three hun-
dred genuine tablets which were in the possession of
two Bagdadans. It is believed that these are the ones
M. Rassam lost, or rather had stolen from him, some
years ago. Every move the Professor has made in
the city, the policemen have followed close on his
track, resolved that he should not carry a relic out
.
WI
1
YV
FROM MOSUL TO BUSSORAH.
167
1
of the country; but in spite of the close watching,
by shrewdness, money, and the co-operation of a few
English residents, he has made his tour to this coun-
try a great success. By some device these tablets
got on board the English Consul's private steamer,
and down the Tigris they went, and are now sailing
through the Persian Gulf on their way to London,
while the Turkish officials are vowing that the Eng-
lish antiquarian shall not get out of the country with
a single antiquity. Mr. Budge in the presence of the
officers appears very sedate outwardly, but is laugh-
ing within all the while, and rejoicing exceedingly to
think how much wiser the world is to be rendered by
his disclosure, and how the Englishman has outwitted
the Turk, proving that cultured brains are too much
for cultured craftiness. I ween that the time is not
far off when the Turks will have another similar ex-
perience, but on a inuch larger scale; England will
not only capture tablets, but the whole country.
It was here that Tamerlane, in the fourteenth cen-
tury, came from the far East, capturing Persia and then
Bagdad, and then portions of India, securing immense
treasures from Delhi and other cities. During the
last raid he learned that Bagdad had become rein-
stated and was rebellious; and so he returned and
slew ninety thousand of her citizens and piled up
their severed heads just outside of the city, as a
monument to show the living what would be their
fate, if they should revolt against Tamerlane.
168
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
But how stands to-day the great Tartar conqueror
compared to the gentle Nazarene, who loved little
children, admired the birds, and saw in the untoiling
flowers a far richer garb than Solomon ever wore;
and who was brave enough always to return good for
evil? The animal may delight in tearing in pieces;
and man, so far as he is animal, may glory in slaying,
but so far as he is angel, his victories must be on the
side of saving character. The great warrior is doomed
to perish, but the Christian hero lives. Mary, who did
the best she could by pouring the box of spikenard
upon her Master's head, after eighteen centuries is
honored as a true heroine.
Having spent hitherto all the time allotted me in
this city of peace, I request my dragoman to bear
my baggage down to the “Blosse Lynch" under the
starlight; and as soon as I can settle my financial af-
fairs, and having said the parting word to kindest
friends, I go to the steamer to lodge, that I may be
ready to start down the Tigris before I shall be up,
as the steamer will leave at five o'clock in the morn-
ing. My dragoman wishes that I would take him and
his family to America, for he has come to the conclu-
sion that it must be the best country in the world.
Reluctantly he says the good-by, and in less than four
days I am landed in Bussorah, just as the sun is
climbing out of the east over mountains of deepest
red and far-reaching strata of silver.
XIII.
FROM BUSSORAH TO UR.
L AVING three days to wait at Bussorah before
11 taking passage to Egypt, I secure an Arab who
can speak a little English and is familiar with the
country, and two fleet steeds, and up the western side
of the Shat-el-Arab River we start, to be gone two
days. Our way for a considerable distance is among
palm-trees and shrubbery. Occasionally we pass
spots which blaze with flowers; and birds here and
there welcome us with sweetest melodies. At length
we cross fields whose surface is white with saltpetre,
but whose soil is rich and deep, the deposit of the
rivers. It is not long before we are in the midst of
tangled undergrowth and morasses; here are the
lairs of wild beasts. Soon we fall in with two English
officers belonging to the steamer “Satara," which is
at Bussorah, who have shot three wild hogs and three
dozen snipe, and are now arranging to have them
carried to the river, and then in a boat conveyed to
their steamer. They are greatly elated with their luck,
and are ready to vouch for southern Mesopotamia
170
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
as the region for the sportsman to have his heart
surfeited with delight.
As we are hurrying on, it would be a pleasure to
have our level path varied by some hill and diversi-
fied by some gurgling brooks. Ah, give me New
England or Switzerland or Scotland in which to live,
for they are free from monotony as to surface and
climate; and natural variety will result in mental and
spiritual diversity.
I experience quite a contrast between the climate
here and that of Nineveh, eight hundred miles to the
north. It is so hot that I am reminded of Sydney
Smith's statement to a friend, when he said " he found
the heat so intense that he was obliged to take off
his flesh and sit in his bones.” My Arab is an ex-
pert horseman and so homely that the heat does not
appear to affect him. Perhaps he would have been
a handsome man if they had not pinioned him so
severely when a baby; but he seems to have a good
heart, and that is best of all, and so he keeps looking
better as we ride on.
We are upon the border of the desert much of the
time, being that part of the earth which is so dear
to the Arab; he loves its barrenness, dreariness, and
far-reaching wastes of sand. My guide's heart burns
fervently with patriotism and devotion for his beloved
Arabia. We frequently fall in with Arabs of sallow
chalkiness of face, who are bound for Bussorah, or
returning from that city, which is the mart of this
FROM BUSSORAH TO UR.
171
region. They are particular to greet us with salaam.
Some of the way the silence of the desert is so pro-
found that it ceases to be soothing, and is absolutely
painful to me.
As we enter a swampy district, the buzz of insects
is so loud as to be heard for rods, and like the Irish-
man, I am at peace only when fighting. Now my
serious Arab smiles and lets drop funniest remarks
about the bite and noise of these troublesome crea-
tures, showing that the gravest people are often the
wittiest.
Before the sun has fallen far from the zenith, we
gallop into the village of Mughier, which stands op-
posite Kunah, on the west side of the Euphrates and
six miles from the river. Our horses are at once
tethered, groomed, and fed with barley. My Arab
takes me to a so-called coffee-house for lunch, as we
brought no food with us. The building is of brick
and clay, looking as if the materials had not been
placed, but had fallen together. Here are two mod-
erately sized rooms with clay for flooring. There
are no chairs and no beds to be seen; we find a rude
bench by the door, where we are seated. Some
bread is soon brought to us in the form of wafers,
about a foot in diameter and half an inch in thick-
ness, four boiled eggs, and two small cups of coffee.
These all relish as we eat. However, I should enjoy
the bread better, were it not so highly seasoned with
grit; still, as the natives eat freely of it and live, I
have no fears from it.
VVI
:
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
172
We are to tarry here the rest of the day and during
the night; and on the morrow we are to return to
Bussorah and go on board a British India steamer
which will sail on the following morning.
This is a weird and uninviting place so far as the
external appearance is concerned. The inhabitants
can scarcely have an inkling of true civilization.
They possess a few cows and horses and many dogs;
some of the people are interested in cultivating date-
trees. Apparently they enjoy but a few comforts;
still, they seem to be entirely satisfied, and possibly
from their view-point their conditions are satisfactory.
Our position and color of lenses have much to do
with our conclusions. Their clothing is sparse and
of the coarsest material, and seldom washed. They
are Moslems religiously, and untaught in schools.
But I am not here to see the natives, rather to ex-
amine ruins and view the site of Ur, the birthplace of
Abraham. Ur must have been a grand old city,
situated at the mouth of the Euphrates and on the
Persian Gulf. At present the gulf is a hundred
miles to the south, and the river six miles to the
north. Great physical changes have taken place
here within the last four thousand years. The many
mounds, marking where the main part of the old city
stood, cover over acres, extending nearly north and
south. In the northern extremity is a relic, or large
portion of a Babylonian temple, in a good state of
preservation. It is in the form of a parallelogram,
FROM BUSSORAH TO UR.
173
made of brick, cemented together with bitumen; the
longer side is one hundred and ninety feet, and the
shorter one hundred and thirty, and seventy feet high,
divided into two stories. It is buttressed all round,
and stands on a mound some twenty feet above the
plain. The exterior is faced with fire-burnt brick to
the depth of ten feet. It has but one entrance, which
is eight feet wide and seven feet high. The style of
the stories differs, and is accounted for on the ground
that they were built by different kings. These ruins
did not attract much attention, till a few years ago
a cylinder was found six feet below the surface in a
niche of the wall, which was inscribed with cuneiform
writing and deciphered by Sir Henry Rawlinson.
From other discoveries at Babylon and Nineveh, the
conclusion was drawn that there must be one or more
cylinders in each corner, and accordingly excavations
were made, and three more discovered. These re-
cords bear the names of kings, from Urukh, who lived
2230 B. C., to Nabonidus, who lived 540 B.C. These
cylinders settle beyond a question that this pile is
what remains of the temple of Sin, the moon-god of
Ur, the home of Abraham; and besides, they fill out
history so as to correspond with the account of the
Prophet Daniel. According to these writings, when
Cyrus took Nabonidus, the son of Nebuchadnezzar,
prisoner, Belshazzar, his oldest son, became king of
Babylon rightfully, and is thus described by Daniel
and the cuneiform records.
174
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
1
ILIJ
The corners of this temple mark the cardinal points,
and the stories diminished in size as they ascended;
the summit was reached by a stairway upon the
outside, and probably was crowned with a statue of
Sin, made out of gold, silver, and precious stones.
It is now known to have had an observatory, where
astronomers nightly studied the stars.
One of these cylinders, which is in the British
Museum and of serpentine stone, gives an account
of a king, Ur-Bagas, as ruling 2200 B. C. It seems
that previous to his coming upon the throne the .
cities of Shinar had been independent of one another,
but through him they were united under one govern-
ment. This king had a mania for building temples,
as is made manifest from the bricks in the ruins of
many cities, inscribed with his name. He made Ur
the capital of his kingdom, and Sin was the god that
guarded it, receiving the principal worship; however,
some of the writings imply that about this period,
and one or two centuries later, polytheism prevailed,
and even monotheism was accepted by a few. These
facts throw light upon Bible history. There can
be little doubt that Terah, Abraham's father, was
brought up to worship the moon-god; perhaps he
would have no inclination, as other gods were intro-
duced into his city, to ascertain who or what they
were or what they taught. A devout old man
seldom changes his religious views. But Abraham,
being a young man, and ready to seek and know,
FROM BUSSORAH TO UR.
175
would be quite likely to inquire into the different
theologies of his time, and be led to differ from his
father religiously, though truly filial and faithful.
Thus it has always been, or else the world would
not have progressed. As he thought and studied,
he became convinced that monotheism is true, and
declared in its favor. It was popular to worship
Sin, and unpopular to adore the one living and
true God. As he could not enjoy the worship of
this God in Ur, because of persecution, he at length
would be likely to inform his good old father that he
must leave the city. The father would be prone
to say that if he goes, I must go, for he is my de-
pendence in old age. Now, for the father to leave
his god which he devoutly loved, would be heart-
rending. But in his emergency he expresses a
willingness to emigrate to Haran, the northwestern
city of Chaldæa, because the god of that city was
Sin, the god which he had always worshipped. This
city was on the highway from Assyria and the great
East to Damascus, Jerusalem, and Egypt. So thither
Terah and his family migrated; and there Abraham
lingered, blessing his noble father till he departed
this life; and then Abraham and his family jour-
neyed southward, not tarrying anywhere long, until
he pitched his tent at the foot of Gerizim, where he
set up an altar, unmolested, to the one living God.
From the inscriptions on the bricks, it would seem
that Ur was one of the oldest of the pre-Semitic
176
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
dynasties. Its name is of Accadian origin; but
before Abraham's time it had passed into the hands
of the Semites, who had ceased to follow a nomadic
life and had become devoted to trade. This city
was favorably situated for traffic by sea, river, and
land. Here the ancestors of the Israelites became
so wedded to the mercantile calling as to infuse a
love for it into all their descendants.
From the tablet-records it is inferred that there
was first a famous Accadian city and afterward a
noted Semitic town; the former, in Abraham's age,
had so entirely faded from existence that its lan-
guage had ceased to be spoken and was studied as a
classic, just as we pursue the Roman and Grecian
literature.
We learn from the tablets that the Sabbath was
kept holy when Abraham was a child, and was
spoken of as “the day of completed labors; ” and be-
fore this the Accadians make mention of it as “ the
day of rest for the heart.” So when Abraham went
into the Holy Land to dwell, and into Egypt, he
carried with him respect for the Seventh Day; and
this reverence for the day was instilled into the
minds of his followers, and when Moses came to
speak authoritatively, he said, “Remember the
Sabbath day to keep it holy," as though it, were
an institution already established.
Books were taken from Ur and placed in the
library of Assur-bani-pal at Nineveh, and in some
as
FROM BUSSORAH TO UR.
177
instances the Accadian language was translated into
the Assyrian tongue in corresponding columns, the
same as our interlinear translations; and on exami-
nation it is found that in the former, where the names
of man and woman occur, woman is placed before
man invariably, but in the translation the order is
reversed. Accordingly, Abraham was educated to
look upon his wife as his equal, or better half, and
this same idea has prevailed among his descendants
even to the present day.
It has also been discovered that human sacrifice
was not only permitted, but required in extreme
cases among the Accadians and the Semites, and so
fathers would offer up their sons to express their
obedience and submission to their gods. May not
this potent obligation have acted upon Abraham, as
he went up from Mamre to Mount Moriah to offer up
his son Isaac?
From recent discoveries here and elsewhere, the
vexed question has been solved, which has troubled
so many, as to where and how did the old Accadians
and Semites dispose of their dead? But few graves
or tombs have ever been found on the east side of
the Tigris or Euphrates. Here and in this vicinity
many cemeteries have been opened up, wherein clay
coffins have been found in large numbers, showing
that for ages here had been the necropolises and
Valhallas of this whole land. It appears that the
people felt that they must bear their dead across
12
178
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
UC
IT
“ the darkling stream for interment.” Who knows
but this poetical thought was transferred from Chal-
dæa to Egypt? For the same practice controlled
the ancient Egyptians in disposing of their dead.
The Egyptians have for the most part lived upon the
east side of the Nile and buried on the west side; or
if there were not a natural body of water over which.
they could ferry their deceased, they would construct
one, as they did at Memphis. The legend of Charon
and the Styx may have had its origin in old Ur. It
is difficult to decide how much the world is indebted
to the early home of Abraham for its civilization
and religious thought. Facts sufficient have already
come to light to show that the debt is not small.
We now know that Chaldæa reaches far back into
the past, and many signs imply that the first cradle
was rocked by the Great Rivers. We have reason
to believe that emigrants from Ur or Haran settled at
the foot of Horeb; for they affixed the name of their
moon-god to Sinai. Sargon, 3800 B. C., engraved his
name on stone by the Mediterranean and by the Nile.
The late-discovered cuneiform tablets in Egypt are
telling stranger stories than scholars a generation ago
dared to imagine. The craniums of Rameses II. and
Manepheta, his son, do bear resemblance to the
skulls taken from the sepulchres of Ur and Erech.
If the captive Jews came from Jerusalem and
Samaria without any decided views as to immor-
tality, tlicy returned to their beloved land with posi-
FROM BUSSORAH TO UR.
179
tive belief in the doctrine. They did not hang their
harps in vain upon the willows by the Euphrates and
weep.
The half has not been done here and elsewhere, in
the way of excavating, that should be. As I wander
from pile to pile, picking up fragments of cones,
vases, urns, and other decorations, I feel as though
the world ought to know all that is possible to be
gained from these and other ancient cities, whence
Syria, Egypt, Greece, and all western civilizations
have received so much mental and religious quicken-
ing and strength. The Arabs here in a hit-and-miss
manner are upturning the rubble and rifling the ruins
for amulets, bugles, toe-rings of silver, brass, and
copper, finger-rings and ear-rings of gold, head-
dresses, tear-glasses, copper bowls, copper coins, or-
naments in alabaster, sculptured shells, and carved
ivory. These are, no doubt, decorations buried with
their dead. Some of the funereal remains have been
found sixty feet beneath the surface.
But the chief value of these relics consists in mak-
ing known the character of this ancient people, re-
vealing their thought, and how they wrought. They
enable us to see Abraham not afar off, but con-
secrated to principle; Sarah and Rachel are seen in
imagination, bearing water from the Euphrates, and
doing faithful service in the home; Laban is tilling
the soil; and Jacob is proving his devotion to Rachel
by his deeds. The gulf of the past seems bridged,
180
BABYLON AND NINEVEH.
and the extremities of time are made to touch, prov-
ing that one God is everywhere, so ruling as to bring
order out of chaos, civilization out of barbarism,
monotheism out of polytheism, culture out of igno-
rance, Christianity out of Judaism. Really, antiquity
is awakening out of its long sleep, rendering oldness
newness. As fresh sunlight comes out of the East
every day, rejuvenating and beautifying all visible
nature, so let the radiance of patriarch, prophet, and
Son of God, out of the Orient, fall upon us daily; and
human character will be revived and enlarged.
INDEX.
.
.
PAGE
Abu Rabba . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Amarah . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Alexander captures Babylon . . . . . . . . . 72
Abraham went from Ur . . . . . . . . . . . 75
Accadian History . . . . . .
Antelopes and Wild Turkeys . . . . . . . . . 124
Arbela and its Citadel . . . .
Ararat . . . . . . . . .
Among the Ruins of Nineveh
Assur-bani-pal's Library . . . . . . . .
Ancient Caleh . . . . . . . . . . .
· · 158
Akarkouf and its Ruins . . . . . . . . . · 164
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
Babylon and Nineveh . . .
Bussorah . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Bedouin Encampments . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Bagdad and its People . . . . . . . . . 36, 39, 107
Bazaars and Ruins of Bagdad . . . . . . . . 39, 42
Babylon, Present and Past . . . . . . . . . 59, 73
Birs-Nimrud . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
Borsippa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
Battle-ground between the Romans and Persians . . . 161
Ctesiphon . . . . . . . . . . .
Caliphs of Bagdad . . . . . . . .
.
.
.
. .
. .
.
.
34
44
182
INDEX
PAGE
Cyrus in Babylon . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71
Chaldæan Books . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79
Cylinders in Foundations . . . . . . . . . . SI, 173
Cunaxa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . IOI
Civil Condition of Bagdad . . . . . . . . . . 109
Cattle and Horses . . . . . . . . . . . 117, 127
22
72
Description of Passage to Bagdad . . . . . . .
Darius captures Babylon . . . . . . . . . . .
Date Orchards . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Deli-Abbas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Daniel's Tomb . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
.
·
133
.
.
20
Elamites . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Eridu and its God, Ea . . . . . . . . . . .
Erech and its God, Ana ...........
Esbia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..
Earliest Chaldæan Monuments . . . . . . . . .
Ezekiel's Tomb . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Experiences on the way to Mosul . . . . . . . .
.
· · ·
115
Flight of Birds . . . .
From Bagdad to Babylon
Footprints of Prophets .
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
. .
. .
. .
.
.
.
.
.
.
27
48
84
Garden of Eden .. . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Golden Bridge .............. 134
Great Zab River ............. 136
Hillah and its People . . . . . . . . . . . .
Huessein and his Death . . . . . . . . . . .
Hindiah Canal . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
95
IOO
Tubeileh . .
Jumjuna · ·
Jonah's Tomb
.
·
.
.
·
.
.
·
.
.
·
.
.
·
.
.
·
.
·
.
.
·
.
.
·
.
.
·
.
.
·
.
. .
· · ·
. . .
'31
03
149
: INDEX.
183
PAGE
Kurnah · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 23
Khan of Haswa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
Kasr, the Palace . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
Kerbella, why so noted . . . . . . . . . . 90, 95
Khans and Folds . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
Kuffree . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129
Kurd Mountains . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129
Kerkook . . . . . ..
Khorsabad · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 145
Kasmain and Cemetery.
.
·
·
·
...
.
·
.
.
Meeting a Zaptieh . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Mahawil · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · ·
Merodach the Sun God.
Manna and Quails . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Mosul . . . . . . . . . . .
Mughies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
132
.
144
· ·
.
·
.
.
Nebuchadnezzar
Nabonidus, the Bible Belshazzar .....
Nineveh . . . . . . . . . .
Ninus's Throne . . . . . . . . . . . .
.
1:44
.
.
151
On a Raft from Mosul to Bagdad . . . . . . . . 155
Pilgrims to Kerbella
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
Residence of Sennacherib
. . .
. . . . . . .
147
.
.
Shat-el-Arab River . . . . . . . . . . .
Seleucia . . . . . . . . . .
Sabæan Star-gazers . . . . . . . . . .
Site of Babylon . . . . . . . . . . . .
Sargon I. and Nimram his Son . . . . . .
Sippara . . . . . . . . . . .
Social Condition of Bagdad . . . . . . .
. ..
. .
. .
57
71
184
INDEX.
PAGE
Traditions of Paradise . . . . . . . . . .
Tomb of Ezra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Tigris River . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Taxes . . . . . . . . . . .
Tower of Babel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
Tablets and their Revelations . . . . . . . . 70, 81
The Medes and Parthians . . . . . . . . . . 122
Tekrit, Saladin's Birthplace . ......... 160
Thunder Storm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162
Tablets, how discovered . . . . . . . . . . . 166
Temple of Ur . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172
The Sabbath in Abraham's Time . . . . . . . . 176
Ur .
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
. .
172
Willows and Palms
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
. .
Yuzajee and its Khan .............
I21
Zaptiehs and Robbers . . . . . . . . . . . .
130
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​:
单 ​- 動畫 ​非華書事事非非是普鲁鲁鲁鲁​鲁鲁韦鲁鲁鲁​,鲁鲁鲁鲁鲁鲁​,鲁鲁鲁鲁一鲁一鲁​,鲁鲁鲁鲁​-鲁鲁鲁​-
| -
--
重量 ​自動 ​| 单
​单身 ​重量 ​重量​= 看書​---鲁律​,事事​-------
---特鲁一鲁​,鲁鲁一鲁鲁鲁​,鲁鲁​,鲁鲁​,鲁鲁事​---- 重量 ​重量 ​重量​:
重
​- 重量 ​-重
​量
​量 ​是非常重要
​;體重重 ​-鲁律學會量體書
​= - =-
! !
于TFT
L
E
重
​量​,
:
:
鲁鲁鲁鲁鲁鲁​==車​,鲁一鲁​,鲁鲁一鲁​,鲁鲁​,鲁鲁中​”=“_
”
是一个很鲁鲁​,
'
事​,
主
​管
​理​。
--- 星
​星草​-- 賽車 ​鲁世書​- 台​-,鲁鲁​,鲁鲁单是鲁鲁鲁​鲁鲁番
​---------鲁鲁​,
鲁鲁​,鲁鲁一鲁星一鲁​,鲁鲁​,鲁一鲁一鲁​,鲁鲁鲁普鲁一鲁一鲁​,事實​,
重量 ​鲁能鲁鲁車​-台中世事是和单 ​- 學興書串串串串耳鼻中​,串到一學年​,
鲁一鲁
​事事自身
​星 ​三星三
​:... - 鲁​,鲁鲁​。鲁​,事實無華 ​- -卡鲁​鲁鲁一鲁鲁​-鲁鲁鲁鲁鲁鲁鲁量​,重量 ​| 静
​电​:看清是单单是鲁鲁​,鲁鲁一鲁​,鲁鲁能量事事會 ​會​-
,-
青春華會​,會中學 ​| |
iii. =
-----鲁鲁鲁一鲁​,鲁鲁一鲁一
​iT :
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--
-
鲁南单一書​,書中書
​是
​--------- 更是一大看​--
一 ​,但
​,
三星三
​1-1
1
----
--单单单一事​,
1,=========:::,:,
:,:
,1号鲁​,
鲁鲁​,鲁一鲁​·普鲁​,鲁子​」+「
量
​一 ​量 ​- 鲁​-鲁鲁鲁一鲁鲁鲁一鲁鲁鲁三一一一一一一得再鲁一鲁
​,
鲁
​一鲁鲁鲁程鲁一鲁​,鲁鲁事单看​---+1特
​,鲁鲁​,
单单
​单
​单单是鲁y a =
,
鲁鲁
​,
鲁鲁​,鲁鲁兽目​_
-|||
,
-
-
-
---鲁手套等等​--
重量
​=“学
​”,
」「
學
​,鲁一鲁
​,鲁鲁 ​,
鲁子 ​-
-
-
五星主
​!
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美
​,
1
1
-11-1,
。鲁是​:是事​- - PH-鲁鲁到鲁山青 ​畢畢 ​學曲​,
=
RE
", 學了​.
曲鲁​;鲁鲁​,鲁鲁​,鲁鲁​,鲁鲁​,鲁鲁L是串墨量​,
售非事事會事 ​| |是是非非鱼 ​曲鲁鲁鲁​,鲁鲁​,鲁鲁​,鲁鲁鲁​,
鲁
​鲁​,,
自主
​三
​.-------
-- | 鲁鲁​-鲁一鲁鲁鲁鲁​,鲁鲁鲁鲁​,鲁一鲁鲁鲁鲁鲁鲁一鲁​,鲁 ​鲁​,鲁鲁修畢非单单一个事​,畫畫畫畫世華書鲁鲁鲁鲁 ​鲁IF - 鲁鲁​。
的成语
​”
星 ​三星三国
​” 是
​中
​=
.
----
特鲁鲁斯
​、事​---带
​上星
​自由電
​
. 中中中
​|
事事非非 ​|- 鲁鲁​,鲁i _
- - - -
- -
a =
,,- ,- -|_鲁鲁​,
鲁
​鲁一鲁​,鲁一鲁​,鲁鲁​,
单单单单​---鲁鲁鲁鲁鲁 ​,鲁鲁
​,,鲁鲁​-鲁一鲁鲁鲁鲁鲁中青​,单鲁​-鲁鲁p - 鲁鲁肃鲁鲁
​星
​星
​- 中華書一一事一鲁鲁鲁兽兽是車行車 ​- 鲁与鲁鲁鲁鲁兽動鲁鲁鲁鲁​,事事非事事​:man
|
1; 北最高是自由基本量​: 1:
4
2
:41:41 :===
事事中事​,
事事皆非普鲁南​---普鲁鲁鲁卡鲁鲁卡鲁鲁鲁带一中學​-中量型​,中一串串是
​. :* . . -- ly
trip
「一帶一鲁​,鲁鲁​,
鲁鲁鲁邦
​:
, 事
​一个中年人
​*
骨事事
​,
主角​;
中小学生科学
​Janoth.
着争​”
YES | 星星​,于是​,鲁鲁鲁鲁鲁鲁s: 事事
​章子
​;学
​学中一个是一个中
​中一
​4