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 IN THE YEARS 1780,81,82,83, 84, AND 85. 
 
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 V 
 
 TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH OF M. LE VAILLANT. 
 
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g;^ -0 YjfiSi 
 
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 U. p. ISISSP LliAIW 
 
 AUTHORVS PREFACE. 
 
 V5U\ 
 
 XnATURALISTS have thought proper to 
 eftablilh relations between the anatomy of 
 animals and that of man, and to trace out 
 the former from the latter. By means of 
 this arrangement, imderftood only by con- 
 noifleurs, thofe parts on which a bird refts 
 all its weight are called its toes ; that part 
 which rifes more or lefs perpendicularly, 
 inftead of being called a leg according to 
 the common idea, is named 2iJbot ; the latter 
 having the heel above it, is immediately 
 followed by the leg, which generally paffes 
 for the MgA ; and, in fhort, this laft part, 
 which in the living bird is fcarcejy dif- 
 tinguifhable, is concealed, and, as one may 
 fay, forms a part of the body itfelf. Hence 
 W^ may conclude, that the foot of a heron, 
 
 a z for 
 
 - in.- b-MiLu lyj. -:^,u-u: ■k.c^^ii i:\jnMt 
 
iv P R E F A C E. 
 
 for example, is as large as its whole body : 
 an afiertion which would appear ridiculous 
 and abfurd to thofe not previoufly inform- 
 ed^ that this methodical diftribution is 
 adopted by all the literati. It is therefore 
 plain that a bird does not w^alk on its feet 
 and talons, but on its claws. This expla- 
 nation I have thought neceffary, in order 
 that I may be better underftood, both in the 
 relation of my voyages, and that more ex- 
 tenfive work to which it is only, in fome 
 meafure, an introdu'^lion. Should I have 
 occafion to fpeak after this arrangement of 
 my acquifitions in quadrupedes, birds, &c, 
 obliged to make ufe of the terms and mea- 
 fures eftablilhed by ornithologies, people 
 who are not naturalifts, and who may deign 
 to read my work, w^ould certainly find errors 
 and obfcurity in three-fourths of my defcrip- 
 tions, did I not give them this key, which 
 is indifpenfably neceffary to whoever may, 
 for the firft time, caft their eyes over this 
 part of natural hiftory. 
 
 I can readily forgive the authors of thofe 
 voluminous works, and the immenfe com- 
 pilations in which old books are laid under 
 
 con- 
 
PREFACE. V 
 
 contribution, which are fluffed with long 
 quotations, and where the dreams of the 
 imagination and ignorance are prefented as 
 immutable truths, merely becaufe they are 
 ancient. But when a writer, feized with a 
 mania for a certain fcience, has not in him- 
 felf fufficient refources to extend its progrefs ; 
 when, immured in hi-s cabinet, he pretends 
 to eflablilh principles and didate laws ; when 
 he proftitutes the valuable gifts of genius to 
 propagate old errors, and to cover, with the 
 graces of elocution, lies received as truths by 
 ouu forefathers ; however he may difguife, 
 twift, or appropriate them to himfelf, I can-? 
 not forgive him whilfl he thus evidently 
 adorns himfelf with the fpoils of others, 
 whatever trouble he may have taken to ar^ 
 range the different patches. 
 
 Fully refolved to fpeak only of what I have 
 feen or done, I ihall introduce nothing 
 into this work which is not ii)Ly own ; and 
 on this account I ihall certainly not be re- 
 proached for the faults of thofe who preceded 
 me. 
 
 If in fome places of my relation obfer- 
 vauons be found diametrically opp.ofite to 
 
 a 3 thofe 
 
ti PREFACE. 
 
 thofe of other travellers, I fhall not go fo far 
 as to aflert that they have been deceived : I 
 mean to depreciate no one 5 I choofe rather 
 to fuppofe, on certain articles, that differ- 
 ence of time, or their being feen under dif- 
 ferent points of view, may have produced 
 difFeren<:es alfo in their relations and re- 
 fults ; they then become only errors or illu- 
 fions, of the fame nature as an optical decep- 
 tion. 
 
 Refpedirig objeds, however, which, hav- 
 ing been too flightly obferved, disfigure 
 the truth effentially, my opinion (though I 
 wifh it not to be univerfally adopted) will 
 never give way when I am certain of fafts, 
 and advance nothing but what i§ fupported 
 by proofs* 
 
 It is not above a century ago that a tafte 
 for travelling has prevailed in Europe. The 
 French above all, more than any other 
 people happy in their country, and at- 
 tached to their native foil, quitted it with 
 reludance, and confidered th^ abfence of 
 a month as a kind of banifhment ; they were 
 contented with waiting for, aad eagerly f wal- 
 lowing, the ridiculous ftories publifhed by 
 
 daring 
 
PREFACE. vii 
 
 daring impoftors refpedling remote nations, 
 and they amufed themfelves with accounts 
 of their wonderful difcoveries and incredible 
 adventures. The exaggerating writer bar- 
 gained, if I may fay fo, with the public 
 credulity, and thought himfelf well recom- 
 penfed if he found only one-half of the bom- 
 baft and the wonderful contained in his work 
 exploded. The fciences wandered in the 
 darknefs of uncertainty, and natural hiftory 
 was not even in its infancy. 
 
 By little and little the genius of difco- 
 very extended her wings, and the letters 
 and the arts have given place to the fciences. 
 A paffion for travelling is awakened ; that 
 defire, ftill more infatiable, of acquiring 
 knowledge, and comparing the objeds of 
 it, has increafed in proportion to the won* 
 ders produced by it : the more dangers 
 have been removed, the more men have 
 paffed their ancient bounds ; and what for- 
 merly appeared an infurmountable obftacle, 
 at prefent is only a puerile excufe, a fhame- 
 ful evafion to conceal one's weaknefs and 
 timidity. 
 
 Being educated more than any other per- 
 
 a 4 fon 
 
viii PREFACE. 
 
 fon In quite different principles, I always 
 entertained a moft ardent defire for travellings 
 which I endeavoured to reprefs ; but it was 
 only by yielding to its tranfports, that I was 
 able to moderate its violence. 
 
 I crofled the feas, as I wifhed to furvey 
 other men, other produdions, and other 
 climates ; I penetrated into fome of the 
 unknown defarts of Africa ; and I may fay 
 that I conquered a fmall portion of the 
 earth. 
 
 I had no wiih to acquire reputation ; I was 
 confcious of no merit that could entitle me to 
 it, and I employed my time only in plea- 
 fure. 
 
 As my friends and my family were of opi- 
 nion that an account of my travels, and 
 fome details refpeding my difcoveries in 
 natural hiftory, might be of utility, I have 
 given them this account and thefe details, 
 fuch as they are, claiming to myfelf on this 
 account no other merit than that of com- 
 plaifance, and renouncing every kind of pre- 
 tenfion to literature, the burden of which I 
 could not fupport. 
 
 It may perhaps be tliought ftrange, that 
 
PREFACE. IX 
 
 to give an account of travels lately under- 
 taken into Africa I have been obliged to 
 return to the paft, and to conduct my 
 readers to the firft fleps of my infancy 
 in South America. To explain this, I muPc 
 obferve, that I thought it would not be im- 
 proper to juftify, by the commencement of 
 my life, my manner of feeing, thinking, and 
 aSing, which always will be agreeable to the 
 tafte of the climate, and which, judged per- 
 haps with feverity, would not fail to difpleafe 
 thofe obftlnate minds who can never fufter 
 their prejudices to be deftroyed, or principles 
 and cuftoms hitherto received to be attacked, 
 without being out of temper. But in what- 
 ever manner my freedom in,expreffing my 
 thoughts, and even in pretending to correct 
 the errors of genius, may be confidered, I 
 think it of importance to let them know, that 
 no private hatred, no envy, and no fecret dif- 
 pleafure, can overbalance in my mind my re- 
 gard to truth, which I cheriih above all things, 
 -and to v^hich I have facrificed, upon more 
 than one occafion, even my vanity. 
 
 At the end of this work 1 riiall prefent the 
 lovers of natural hiflory with a general de- 
 
 fcription 
 
X PREFACE. 
 
 fcription of all the individuals, quadrupedes 
 and birds, which I procured in my excurfions, 
 and have now in my pofTeffion. Thofe ani- 
 mals, of which accounts have been never 
 before given, or which have been hitherto 
 unknown, will be accompanied with coloured 
 engravings, reprefenting feveral new genera, 
 and confiderable varieties in the fpecies. 
 Though a defcription and figure of the giraffe 
 have been given after fome authors, this has 
 not prevented me from giving new ones. 
 What has been hitherto faid refpeding this ani- 
 mal, and the figures which have been engraved 
 of it, have no refemblance to the original in 
 my cabinet, or to what I have obferved of 
 its manners in its native country. 
 
 INTRO- 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 
 X HAT part of Guiana, belonging to the 
 Dutch, which Is under the government of 
 the Weft-India Company, is perhaps the leaft 
 known to naturahfts, though of all South 
 America it is that, without doubt, which 
 prefents the moft curious and extraordinary 
 produftions of every kind. Situated under 
 the fcorching climate of the torrid zone, five 
 degrees north of the line, this country, ftill 
 enveloped by the cruft of time, conceals, if I 
 may fo exprefs it, the focus where nature forms 
 her exceptions to thofe general rules which 
 fhe feems to have eftablifhed. Extending along 
 the coaft about an hundred leagues, its breadth 
 Is almoft unlimited. Here the river Surinam 
 rolls its majeftic ftream : and upon its left 
 bank, three miles from the fea, nfes Parama- 
 ribo, the principal place of this vaft colony ; 
 
 5 the 
 
xii INTRODUCTION. 
 
 the fpot where I was born, and the fcene of my 
 infant years. Educated by enlightened pa- 
 rents, who endeavoured to procure thofe valu- 
 able and interefting objeds which are difperfed 
 throughout the country, I had continually 
 before my eyes the fruits of their labour, and 
 I enjoyed at my eafe the whole of their curi- 
 ous colleGibn- From my ealieft years, thefe 
 tender parents, who could not be a moment 
 Without me, and who by their tafte were 
 often expofed to diftant journeys, and to be 
 long abfent at the extremities of the colony, 
 carried me along with them, making me a 
 iharer in their travels, their fatigues, and their 
 amufements. My firft years were thus fpent 
 in the defarts, and I was born almoft a favage. 
 When reafon, which in warm climates al- 
 ways precedes age, began to dawn in my 
 mind, my tafte was not long in difplaying 
 itfelf, and my parents did every thing in 
 their power to affift the firft efforts of my 
 curiofity. Under fuch excellent inftrud:ors 
 I every day tafted new pleafures : I heard 
 them difcourfe in a manner fuited to my 
 capacity on the objeds which they had 
 acquired, and on thofe which they hoped 
 to procure in future. By thefe means an 
 
 abundance 
 
INTRODUCTION- xui 
 
 abundance of ideas and relations was trea- 
 fured up in my mind — at firft, in a confufed 
 manner, I muft own ; but gradually with 
 more order and method. Nature, therefore, 
 was my earlieft inftrudior, becaufe it was 
 towards her that my views were firft di- 
 reded. 
 
 Soon after, a defire of making acqulfitions, 
 and a fpirit of imitation, added impetuofity, 
 and I may fay impatience, to my amufing 
 purfuits. Every thing feemed to whifper 
 to my felf-love that I alfo ihould attempt to 
 form a cabinet of natural hiftory. Suffer- 
 ing myfelf, therefore, to be led away by this 
 feducing idea, without lofs of time, I traitor- 
 oufly declared war againft the weakeft ani- 
 mals, and began to fcarch for caterpillars^ 
 butterflies, beetles, and in a word for infeds 
 of every kind. 
 
 When people labour for themfelves, they 
 may, with confined means, and rude and un- 
 cultivated talents, form an indifferent work : 
 but in my opinion they will always fucceed 
 well, when they fpare neither time, care, nor 
 attention ; and when they employ all their 
 talents and abilities. With fuch a difpofition, 
 
 the 
 
xiv INTRODUCTION. 
 
 the almoft certain fign of fuccefs, I belield my 
 pretty colledrion of infedls increafe daily un- 
 der my hands. I fet the higheft value upon 
 it, and efteemed it beyond meafure. As I 
 had been the fole creator of it, the reader may 
 eafily guefs how much fuperior I confidered it 
 to that of my parents. Pride, which is blind, 
 makes the mafterpieces of folly and genius 
 march hand in hand. 
 
 Entirely occupied with my enjoyments, I 
 had never yet perceived that fome obftacle 
 always occurs to prevent the fuccefs of every 
 enterprize. 
 
 In one of our excurfions we had killed a 
 female ape, of that fpecies which in the 
 country are called Baboons, As fhe carried 
 on her back a young one, which had not 
 been wounded, v/e took them both along 
 with us ; and, v/hen we returned to the plan- 
 tation, my ape had not quitted the fhoul- 
 ders of its mother. It clung fo clofely to 
 them, that I was obliged to have the aflift- 
 ance of a negro to difengage it ; but fcarcely 
 was it feparated from her, when, like a bird, 
 it darted upon a wooden block that flood 
 near, covered with my father's peruke, which 
 
 it: 
 
INTRODUCTION. xv 
 
 k embraced with its four paws, and it could 
 not abfolutely be compelled to quit its pofi- 
 tion. Deceived by its inftinft, it ftill ima- 
 gined itfelf to be on the back of its mother, 
 and under her protection. As it feemed per- 
 fedly at eafe on the peruke, I refolved to fuf- 
 fer it to remain, and to feed it there with 
 goats milk. It continued in its error for 
 three weeks ; but after that period emanci- 
 pating itfelf from its own authority, it quitted 
 the foftering peruke, and by its amufmg 
 tricks became the friend and the favourite of 
 the whole family. 
 
 I had, however, without fufpedling it, in- 
 troduced the wolf "among my flocks. One 
 morning, on entering my chamber, the door 
 of which I had been fo imprudent as to leave 
 open, I beheld my unworthy pupil, making 
 a hearty breakfaft on my noble colledion. 
 Jn the firft tranfports of my paffion I re- 
 folved to ftrangle it in my arms ; but rage and 
 fury foon gave place to pity, when I perceived 
 that its voracioufnefs had expofed it to the 
 moft cruel punifhment. In eating the bee- 
 tles it had fwallowed fome of the pins upon 
 which they were fixed ; and, though it made 
 
 a thoufand 
 
xvi INTRODUCTION. 
 
 a thoufand efforts to throw them up, all its 
 exertions were in vain. The torture which 
 it fuffered made me forget the devaftation 
 it had occafioned ; I thought only of afford- 
 ing it relief: but neither my tears, nor all the 
 art of my father's flaves, whom I called from 
 all quarters with loud cries, were able to pre- 
 ferve its life. This accident difconcerted me 
 very much, but it did not difcourage me : I 
 foon gave myfelf up to new refearches ; and, 
 not contented with one treafure, I wifhed to 
 unite feveral. By a natural progreffion I turned 
 my attention towards birds. As our flaves did 
 not fupply me with a fufficient number, I 
 armed myfelf with a tube ^, and an Indian 
 bow : in a fhort fpace of time I could ufe 
 them with much dexterity. I fpent whole 
 days in watching ; in a word, I became a keen 
 fportfman. It was then obferved, and I 
 myfelf was fenfible of it, that this tafte was 
 changed into a violent paffion, which dif- 
 turbed even my hours of repofe, and to which 
 years have ftill added ftrength. 
 
 * Sarbacanne — a kind of tube, through which fmall 
 darts are blown with the mouth. 
 
 Some 
 
INTRODUCTION. xvii 
 
 Some of my friends have accufed me of 
 coolnefs and Infenfibility ; and a greater 
 number of them have confidered the fingu- 
 lar journeys I afterwards undertook as rafli 
 enterprizes. The former I readily forgive ; 
 to the latter I fhall make no reply : thofej 
 however, who give themfelves the leaft trou- 
 ble to review the firfl: purfuits of my infancy^ 
 will be lefs furprifed at this appearance of ori- 
 ginality ; and will eafily perceive that my 
 education, wdiile it accounts for the caufe of 
 it, pleads alfo its excufe* 
 
 Some time after, my parents, who had 
 fixed the period of their departure for Eu- 
 rope, and w^ho fought no other happinefs 
 than that of being united to their family and 
 friends, having fettled their affairs, I embark* 
 ed with them in a fliip called the Catherine^ 
 and, on the 4th of April 1763, fet fail for 
 Holland. In the joy of my heart I partook, 
 by anticipation, of all thofe pleafares and 
 amufements which my parents propofed to 
 enjoy during the paffage. A curiofity^ very 
 natural at my age, added to my tranfports : 
 but this agitation, or rather delirium, did 
 not render me infenfible to regret. In 
 
 Vol, L b fo 
 
xvlii INTRODUCTION 
 
 fo fhort a fpace of time I could not become 
 ungrateful, and without emotion lofe fight 
 of that beneficent country in v/hich I firft 
 drew breath, I often cafl: a fond look on 
 thofe happy fhores, which were flill becom-^ 
 ing more and more diftant. In proportion as 
 they receded from me, and as wafted by the 
 winds I approached the frozen climates of the 
 north, a difmal fadnefs threw a gloom over 
 my imagination, and diflipated my conjedures 
 concerning the future. 
 
 After a dangerous and difagreeable paflage 
 we caft anchor in the Texel, about nine or 
 ten in the morning, on the 12th of July 
 following. 
 
 Being at length arrived in Europe, every 
 thing I faw appeared fo new to me — I fliew- 
 ed fo much impatience, haraffed people 
 with fo many queftions, and every objeft 
 that prefented itfelf to my view feemed fo 
 extraordinary — that I myfelf was an objed 
 of aflonifhment to all thofe who v/ere around 
 me. My importunities, however, did not 
 always raife the laugh againft rne ; and I 
 made an ample return, by pertinent remarks 
 on America, for the information which the 
 
 people 
 
INTRODUCTION. xix 
 
 people of Europe had the condefcenfion to 
 give me. 
 
 ' After fpending fome time in Holland we 
 repaired to France, to the city where my fa- 
 ther was born, and where he fettled in the 
 bofom of his family. Here I had a new op^ 
 portunity of indulging my tafte, in the cabi- 
 net of Mr. Becoeur, which, for the ornitho- 
 logy of Europe, contains the moft numerous 
 and beft preferved colledlionl have ever met 
 with. 
 
 In Surinam I had followed a plan, with 
 refped: to birds, vv^hich fucceeded very well, 
 but which fpoke little to the imagination, and 
 ftill lefs to the eyes. The only method I 
 knew, was to preferve their fliins by putting 
 them between the leaves of large books ; but 
 here a quite different fpedacle awakened all 
 my fenfes. Befides the merit of preferva- 
 tion, it was neceffary to reftore their pro- 
 per forms, Thefe two effential points embar- 
 raffed me much : I refolved to make them 
 a peculiar ftudy ; and to thefe I devoted my 
 whole attention. During a refidence of two 
 years in Germany, and of feven in Lorraine 
 and Alface, I made prodigious havoc among 
 
 b 2 the 
 
XX INTRODUCTION. 
 
 the feathered tribe. To the diftindlion of 
 fpecies I wifhed to join alfo a thorough know-? 
 ledge of their manners ; and I was never perr 
 feclly fatisfied with my excurfions, but when 
 I was able to furprife the male and the fe- 
 male in fuch a fituation as no longer permit- 
 ted me to doubt of their fex. I have often 
 fpent whole weeks in watching, to diftinguifh 
 the fpecies of birds, before I could procure a 
 pair. 
 
 In the fpace of eight or nine years, there-f 
 fore, by care and labour, and after many at- 
 tempts and much devaftation, I was able 
 not only to give to thefe animals, fo tender 
 and delicate, their proper forms ; but alfo to 
 keep them in that pure and found ftate of pre- 
 fervation, which makes all the merit of my 
 colledlion. By being habituated to live with 
 thern in the fields, in the woods, and in their 
 moft fecret retreats, I have learned alfo to 
 diftinguifh the fexes in the moft invariable 
 manner; a divining art, if I may ufe the ex- 
 preflion, which I do not pretend to confider 
 as a great merit, but which a very fmal! 
 number of ornitliologifts have acquired. 
 How often have I feen in cabinets, curiqus. 
 
 enoue:h 
 
INTRODUCTION. xxi 
 
 enoiigh in other refpe6ls, fometimes forced 
 reparations, fometimes monftrous and unna- 
 tural alliances ! Here, placed as male and fe^ 
 male, two beings that had never met together; 
 and there, a male and a female clafTed as two 
 different fpecies, &c. 
 
 In this interefting part of natural hlftory 
 I more and more acquired knowledge ; but 
 I confefs that, inftead of being fatisfied, it 
 only proved tp me the infufficiency of my 
 owm ftrength. A more extenfive field v/as, 
 however, about to be difplayed before me : 
 opportunity feemed to call me at a diftance, 
 and to invite me to put off the time no 
 longer. 
 
 In the courfe of the year 1777, a favour- 
 able circumftance having condudted me to 
 Paris, like every other ftranger w^ho arrives 
 for the firft time in that capital, I paid my 
 tribute of admiration to the cabinets of the 
 curious, and of men of letters. I was charmed 
 with the beauty and variety of the objeds 
 which they contained, and with the prodigi- 
 ous number of individuals of every fpecies, 
 which, like a forced contribution, had come 
 
 from 
 
xxii INTRODUCTION. 
 
 from the four quarters of the world to h6 
 clafled methodically, as far as is poiTible, in 
 a fpace always unluckily too confined. Dur- 
 ing a refidence of three years, I faw, ftudi- 
 ed, and made myfelf acquainted with all the 
 moft celebrated cabinets ; but their fuperb 
 collections foon made me uneafy : they left 
 a vacuum in my mind which nothing could 
 fill up. I no longer beheld, in thefe, affem^ 
 blages of foreign fpoils, but general maga- 
 zines, where different beings, ranged without 
 choice, and without tafte, were buried in 
 profound fleep for fcience. Nothing gave 
 me any precife information refpediing their 
 manners, their cuftoms, and their habitudes^ 
 which are things the moft effential to be 
 known. This was the ftudy which had en- 
 gaged the greateft fhare of my attention in 
 my youth. I had read, it is true, different, 
 works upon natural hiftory, but filled with 
 contradictions fo difgufting, that the tafte 
 which is not yet formed muft lofe much by 
 perufing them. Above all, I had ftudied, 
 with the utmoft avidity, thofe immortal maf- 
 terpieces, confecrated for the ufe of pofte- 
 
 rity 
 
INTRODUCTION. xxiit 
 
 rity by one of the greateft genlufes who 
 have followed the fame purfuits. I every 
 day burnt frefh incenfe at the feet of his 
 ftatue ; but the magic of his eloquence did 
 not feduce me fo for as to make me admire 
 the flights of his imagination ; and I could 
 not pardon in the philofopher the exaggera- 
 tions of the poet, 
 
 Befides, and above all, I was continually 
 turning my thoughts towards thofe parts of 
 the globe which, having never been explor- 
 ed, might, by affording new knowledge, help 
 to rectify that already acquired. I con- 
 fidered as fupremely happy the mortal v^ho 
 fhould have the courage to feek it at the 
 fource ; and in this refpedl the interior parts 
 of Africa appeared to me a Peru. It was a 
 country as yet untouched for the naturalift. 
 Full of thefe ideas, I perfuaded myfelf that 
 the ardor of zeal might make up for want of 
 genius ; and that, by being an accurate ob-» 
 ferver, one might become a great enough 
 writer. My enthufiafm fuggefted to me 
 that I was the privileged perfon for whom 
 this eiiterprize was referved. I readily lift" 
 
 ened 
 
^xiv INTRODUCTION 
 
 ened to Its feducing dictates, and froiii that 
 moment I devoted myfelf to it. Neither the 
 ties of affeftion, nor thofe of friendfhip, were 
 eapable of diverting me from my purpofe. I 
 communicated my intention to no one ; and, 
 blind to every obftacle, I quitted Paris on the 
 17th of July 1780. 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
:r=s=? 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 INTO THE 
 
 INTERIOR PARTS 
 
 or 
 
 AFRICA^ 
 
 VOYAGE TO THE CAPE. 
 
 Impatient to carry my intended plan 
 Into execution, I repaired to Holland, where 
 I vifited the principal cities of that republic, 
 and took a view of their curiofities. When 
 I arrived at Amfterdam, I found treafures, of 
 which I had before entertained no idea. I 
 was received with the utmoft politenefs by 
 all the literati, and I had free accefs to every 
 cabinet. But what principally excited my 
 admiration was that of Mr. Temminck, trea- 
 furer to the Eaft-India Company. In that 
 beautiful colledion I obferved a multitude of 
 valuable obje(Ss which I had never feen in 
 Vol, I. B France. 
 
'^ TRAVELS IN 
 
 France. Every thing in it appeared to me 
 extreinely rare, and to be in a ftate of the 
 higheft prefervation. His noble place for 
 breeding birds alfo exhibited, in an admirable 
 feries, a double view of nature and art, 
 uhited to overcome the effedls of climate. 
 There the enchanted eye may admire alive the 
 moil beautiful and leaft known individuals of 
 every fpecies ; and there one may fee, by the 
 afliduous care beftowed upon them, birds the 
 moft' diflant and the mofl remote from one an- 
 other multiply and propagate, as if they lived 
 in their native countries. This fight I confefs, 
 ftill ferved to redouble my ardor ; and com- 
 pletely fortified me again-ft every obftacle, and 
 againft ail thofe dangers which I had refolved 
 ^o encounter. 
 
 Having foon formed an intimate friendfhip 
 with Mr. Temminck, he fhev/ed me every 
 mark of attention and kindnefs. As he had 
 it in his power, more than any one elfe, to 
 favour my defign, I did not hefitate to com- 
 municate it to him. Being fo congenial with 
 his own purfuits, he highly approved of it; 
 and pointed cut thofe m.eans which I ought 
 to purfue in order to fucceed. He himfelf 
 fpared neither care nor labour* I was 
 
 happy 
 
AFRICA. 3 
 
 happy enough to obtain permifficn to take 
 a paffage for the Cape in a veffel belonging 
 to the Eaft-lndia Company. The time of my 
 departure was fixed: and I procured from 
 my refpedable friend very warm recommend- 
 ations 5 without which, by a fmgular fatality, 
 as will be feen hereafter, I Ihould have been 
 infallibly expofed to the moft cruel embarrafT- 
 ment. 
 
 Matters being thus far fettled, I employed 
 myfelf, without remiffion, in making the ne- 
 ceflary preparations for this grand enterprize. 
 When I had procured every thing that I 
 thought likely to be of ufe to me in the inte- 
 rior parts of Africa, I took leave of my 
 friends, and of Europe ; and, fetting out in a 
 boat which came to receive me, was conduced 
 to the Texel aboard of the Held-JVoltemaade"^ ^ 
 a veffel deftined for Ceylon, but which was to 
 touch at the Cape of Good Hope. The wind 
 being unfavourable for quitting the Texel, we 
 were under the neceffity of waiting eight days. 
 During that interval, I learned that our veffel 
 was an ex-voto of the Eaft-lndia Company, in 
 commemoration of a gallant adlion performed 
 
 * The Captain's name was S V . 
 
 B 2 bv 
 
4 TRAVELS IN 
 
 by an inhabitant of the Cape, named Wolte- 
 maade. who during; a dreadful ftorm had been 
 able, with the alliftance of his horfe, to fave 
 fourte(^n feamen belonging to a veffel Ihip- 
 wrecked in Table Bay ; but that he himfelf, 
 the vidtim of his generous efforts, had periilied 
 in his lad attempt, owing to his own fatigue, 
 and that of his horfe, added to the w^eight of 
 the unfortunate men who crowded upon him, 
 from a dread t'lat the veffel might fink before 
 he could be again able to return. A particu- 
 lar account of this very affeding cataflrophe 
 may be feen in Dr. Sparmann's Voyage to the 
 Cape. 
 
 The wind at length becoming favourable, 
 we unmoored, at eleven o'clock in the morn- 
 ing, on the 19th of December 178 1, the 
 very day before the Englifh commenced hofti- 
 lities againft the Dutch. Had we remained 
 twenty- fom- hours longer, the Company would 
 not have permitted us to depart ; which would 
 have difconcerted me very unfeafonably, and 
 might have perhaps ruined my plan, and even 
 my hopes. Cloudy Vv^eather and a thick fog 
 enabled us to pafs through the Channel without 
 being obferved by the Englifh, and we gained 
 the open lea,, cleaving the waves in perfect fe- 
 
 curity,,. 
 
AFRICA. 5 
 
 eiinty, without everfufpedling that the flames 
 of v/ar had burft forth in every quarter around 
 us. Sailing fometimes at a quick, and fome- 
 times at a flow rate, we follovv^ed the Mercury^ 
 another veflel belonging to the Company, 
 which was purfuing the fame courfe, and 
 which was commanded by our commodore. 
 Thus far nothing remarkable occurred in our 
 voyage ; but w^e were foon about to feel a part 
 of the general convulfion. As I knew that 
 in a pafTage of three, four, and perhaps fix 
 months, I Ihould experience many tedious and 
 dull moments, I took the precaution of fur- 
 nifliing myfelf with a few books before my 
 departure. Among my travels, and works on 
 natural hiiiory, I had the relation of M. De la 
 Caille, which for amufement I read in prefer- 
 ence to any other ; but I remember that, hav- 
 ing one day fallen upon a pafTage very anti- 
 philanthropic, and full of fanaticifm, I immedi- 
 ately threw down the book in a paffion, with 
 a refolution of perufmg it no longer. The 
 palTage is as follows : " The cuftom of going 
 ^* out to hunt runaway negroes, and thofe 
 ** who turn plunderers, as we hunt favage 
 *' animals, has nothing in it that can offend 
 *' the delicacy of an European, The moment 
 
 B 3 " when 
 
6 TRAVELS IN 
 
 " when men, ufeful in fociety, abandon their 
 " fituations, either from a fpirit of libertinifni 
 *' or of avarice, they degrade themfelves be- 
 *' low brutes, and deferve the moft rigorous 
 *' treatment." Refled;ing afterwards on the 
 humane, mild, and liberal charadler, which 
 has every where been beflowed upon this 
 learned man, I again took up his book, and 
 found thefe refiedions: " Laying prejudice 
 *^ afide, w^hich of the two is preferable — he 
 *^ who cultivates the arts, and invents excep- 
 ^^ tions contrary to the rules of nature; or he 
 *' who, contented with the neceffaries of life, 
 *' regulates his condud according to the max- 
 *' ims of ftridt and fcrupulous juftice?" I then 
 recollected that the abbe De la Caille had been 
 fnatched from letters and the fciences, before 
 he had time to put the laft hand to his Journal; 
 and I imputed to the barbarous ignorance of 
 the editor that infamous paragraph, which 
 could in no manner have fallen from the pen 
 of a clergyman, a philofopher, and a man of 
 letters. 
 
 On the firfl: of February 178 1, being three 
 degrees north of the line, we were informed 
 at break of day that a fail was feen in the ho- 
 rizon. At that time the Mercury was a great 
 
 way 
 
AFRICA. 
 
 7 
 
 way ahead out of fight, and we were perfeft- 
 iy becahned. In vain had we recourfe to our 
 fpy-glaffes; nor could we diftinguifh, until 
 nine in the mornino:, that it was only a veflel 
 of fmall fize* Some believed it to be French ; 
 others maintained that it was Englifh : each 
 reafoned according to his own manner, and 
 formed various conje<flures, till its nearer ap- 
 proach fhouid diicover the truth. Some hours 
 after we perceived that it was towed along by 
 two boats, and that it was advancing tow^ards 
 us by the help of oars. As we then concluded 
 that it was a veflel in diftrefs, approaching 
 to beg alliftance, we fuffer^d it to come up to 
 iis without interruption. About three in the 
 afternoon, Ending it clofe to us, we difplayed 
 our colours, and fired a gun ; but we were 
 very much furprifed to receive a (hot in our 
 poop, which was followed by a whole broad- 
 fide : the privateer at the fame time hoifl:ed 
 the Englifh flag. In vain fhouid I attempt 
 to defcribe the ftupefadion and aftonifhment 
 of the w^hole crew upon this unforefeen event- 
 In the veffel there was not perhaps one man 
 who had ever been in an aftion. The captain 
 and the officers, accuftomed to purfue their 
 voyage in profound peace, had never com- 
 manded in the like circumitances \ one may 
 
 B 4 there- 
 
8 TRAVELS IN 
 
 therefore eafily imagine what muft have been 
 the confternation of thefe poor people, un- 
 exped:edly attacked in this manner, and with- 
 out having time to make any preparation, or 
 even to barricade the quarter deck. Terror, 
 and above all, confufion, were painted on 
 their countenances. The officers bawled out 
 .as loud as they could ; v/hile the foldiers, all 
 recruits, none of whom had ever loaded a 
 mufket, knew not what to anfwer, or whom 
 to obey 5 in a word, at feven in the evening 
 we had not wafted a iingle grain of powder. 
 The privateer, in the mean time, kept up a 
 conftant fire ; and, ordering us to ftrike, 
 threatened to fmk us if we carried our re- 
 fiftance any further. Our captain in a con- 
 vulfive agitation, continually cried out that 
 he had not power to furrender at difcretion ; 
 and that it would be necefl!ary for that pur- 
 pofe to addrefs the Mercury, the captain of 
 which was his commodore. The poor man 
 had entirely loft his fenfes. 
 
 A frefti breeze, as if by a miracle, at length 
 fpringing up, the Mercury bore tip to us, and 
 afked our captain v/hy he did not fire. The 
 latter replied that he waited for the orders of 
 |iis fuperior officer, and that it was the com- 
 modore's bufinefs to give the fignal for bat- 
 
 Xl 
 
 p • 
 
A F p. I C A. 9 
 
 tie ; an excufe altogether ridiculous from the 
 mouth oi di feama?!^ attacked by a fmail vefTel 
 that mounted fixteen eight pounders, v/hlle 
 he had thirty-two of a larger bore, feveral 
 fwivels, and three hundred men befides the 
 fhip's company. 
 
 The Mercury beginning to fire, we did 
 the fame ; and, though the former was be- 
 tween us and the Englifh, we ftill continued to 
 difcharge ourbroadfides. Our people, favoured 
 by this diforder, had all got intoxicated : fome 
 ran backwards and forwards, without know- 
 ing w^hither they went ; fome ftaggered and 
 joftled againft each other ; while others cried, 
 wept, and fwore, or went to conceal them- 
 felves in fome fecret corner. The chaplain 
 himfelf, with a view no doubt to roufe his 
 courage, was not afraid of proceeding to the 
 fame excefs. I faw him with a lanthorn in 
 his hand go down to the fore magazine, 
 which contained upwards of ten tons of gun- 
 powder deftined for Ceylon, and without the 
 leaft precaution bring up a fufEciency to 
 make cartridges ; for it is to be remarked 
 that none were ready prepared, nor was there 
 ever a thought entertained of making fuch a 
 provifion. 
 
 After 
 
lo TRAVELS IN 
 
 After bafiling all oar manoeuvres, and 
 piercing us on all iides, the privateer bore 
 away from us about eleven at night ; and, 
 though it foon got to a great diftance, wc 
 ftill continued our fire. What a glorious 
 moment for poltroons ! How they then 
 xnoved about v\rith much alertnefs, and trod 
 the deck with a firm ftep ; raifing their 
 voices, and challenging the enemy whom 
 they no longer heard ! Their fear however 
 was not as yet allayed, and no one ventured 
 to retire to reft. Imitating the example fet 
 me, I paffed the whole night in the open air, 
 ftretched out upon a bag between tv*^o rows of 
 mufkets ; but I v/as every moment difturbed 
 by the calling out of the fentinels, who were 
 continually haunted by the noife of the 
 Englifh cannon : one may thence eafily form 
 an idea of the diforder which prevailed dur- 
 ing this affair. Next morning, when the 
 gunners went to clean the guns, they found 
 fome of them filled to the mouth, and con- 
 taining three charges, one above another, 
 whli as man V bullet's. In feveral of the 
 mufkets the balls were inidermoft : and I am 
 fully perfuaded that, without the afliftance 
 of the Mercury, wc fiiould have been taken ; 
 
 luckily 
 
AFRICA. II 
 
 luckily however we efcaped after being 
 heartily frightened. Nothing indeed but the 
 phantom Terror could have thrown officers 
 into fuch a confternation, that they fufFered 
 themfelves to be cannonaded for four hours 
 without daring to return a fingle fhot. The 
 Englifh certainly muft have believed that we 
 had no guns, or that thofe which they faw 
 were only of wood. The leaft refiftance on 
 our part would have made them foon fheer 
 off, and without doubt they would have re- 
 tired fafter than they approached. 
 
 I cannot finifh this fketch, which is truly 
 worthy of the humorous pencil of Calot, 
 without relating one circumftance more, which 
 provokes a fmile even yet whilft I am writing. 
 Running up and dovx^n from the poop to the 
 quarter deck, and from the quarter deck to 
 the cabin, (for, bearing no commiffion in the 
 fhip, I had neither to . give nor receive or- 
 ders), I obferved the keeper of the Com- 
 pany's papers faithfully feated near the 
 myilerious box, and ready to heave it out at 
 the window on the fligheft appearance of 
 danger. This man at leaft was at his fta- 
 tion, but terror had fixed him there much 
 more than duty. The former had got entire 
 
 poffeffion 
 
12 TRAVELS IN 
 
 pofleffion of his fcnfes : " Vaillant," cried he, 
 " Vaillant, it is all over ! Alag, my friend, 
 *' we are ruined, we are undone !" I did 
 every thing in my power to raife his fpirits, 
 and to induce him to change his air, that he 
 might afiiime another countenance. In the 
 mean time a bullet came whizzing through 
 the cabin with a horrid noife ; and the poor 
 man fell down motionlefs, like an unwieldy 
 mafs. Ignorant of the caufe, I imagined he 
 was dead ; but by little and little he raifed 
 himfelf up, fetching feveral heavy fighs 
 from the bottom of his bread. At this part 
 of the fcene, which was truly afFedting, I 
 could no longer keep my gravity, and I 
 retired to give free vent to loud burfts of 
 laughter. 
 
 Was it not iliameful that men, formed by 
 their condition, their age, and their experi- 
 ence, to give examples of bravery and ho- 
 nour, fhould fail in fo difgraceful a manner, 
 at a time when in a minute only they might 
 have diffipated every alarm, and made tj^e 
 paltry privateer which haraffed us appear as 
 nothing, vvrhilft, on the contrary, children 
 fcarcely old enough to haul in a cable, 
 fhcwed a thoufand proofs of zeal, firmnefs, 
 
 and 
 
AFRICA. I J 
 
 and intrepidity ? What chiefly raifed my in- 
 dignation, and yet diverted me at the fame 
 time, was, that next morning they were 
 fully perfuaded they had funk the Englifli 
 vefTel, as it had difappeared. 1 could not 
 without murmuring hear the reciprocal com- 
 pliments they paid one another on ac- 
 count of the gallant manner in which they 
 had defended their vefTel the evening before. 
 As for me, being firmly perfuaded that the 
 enemy had not received one of our fhot, I 
 could not help fhewing a little pleafantry on 
 the occafion ; and telling the chief pilot, 
 Van Groenen, that he behaved worfe than, 
 any of the reft during the action, and that 
 he then fhewed the greateft fhare of pride 
 and vanity. The failors laughed in their 
 fleeves, and the pilot perceived it ; but the 
 greater part of them not being able in con- 
 fcience to ftand up in his defence, he was 
 obliged to be contented with the worthy 
 teftimony of his own felf-love. To crown 
 the -afflur, Engelbregt, the furgeon, who 
 during the whole aftion had concealed him- 
 felf in the hold, was commiffioned, by vir- 
 tue of his office, to keep a journal of this 
 glorious engagement, I took tlie liberty of 
 
 rallying 
 
14 TRAVELS IN 
 
 rallying the writer, as I had done the reft ; 
 but it was out of his power to be revenged, 
 as I had the happinefs of being in good 
 health. This however was not the cafe with 
 the pilot ; he made himfelf ample amends for 
 my pleafantry by rendering my fituation as 
 uncomfortable a$ he could during the re- 
 mainder of the paffage : but luckily it was 
 not of long duration ; and after this fm- 
 gular adventure we continued our voyage 
 very happily, as we had always a fair wind. 
 After a paffage of three months and ten days 
 we difcovered the mountains of the Cape, 
 which on account of the finenefs of the wea- 
 ther made at that time a beautiful appearance, 
 I took a view of them ; and the fame day, 
 at three in the afternoon, we caft anchor in 
 Table Bay. 
 
 The port-captain, Mr. Staring, Immedi- 
 ately came on board, and confirmed the ac- 
 counts we had heard of a declaration of war, 
 which the colony had learned from a French 
 frigate. Next morning I went on fhore, 
 and took the earlieft opportunity of paying 
 my refpeds to thofe gentlemen to whom I 
 had been recommended, and of delivering 
 my letters* I was received with much polite- 
 
 nefs. 
 
AFRICA. 15 
 
 nefs, and even with diftindion. Mr. Boers 
 the fifcal, and Mr. Hacker, fhewed me every 
 pofTible mark of friend ihip ; and I was fenfi- 
 ble that I was not indebted for them to that 
 ordinary politenefs, which in other places 
 fubftitutes unmeaning grimace for the noble 
 defire of obliging one's fellow-creature, and 
 which is only a perfidious art employed to 
 deceive with more facility the credulous fin- 
 cerity of a ftranger. They offered me all 
 thofe fer vices which my recom.mendations, 
 and their diftinguiihed rank, gave me a 
 title to expect. I depended upon them ; for 
 I knew that I had to do with Dutchmen. 
 
 I was impatient to be acquainted with this 
 new country, to which I found myfelf tranf- 
 ported as if in a dream. Every thing pre- 
 fented itfelf to my view In the moft ftriking 
 manner ; and I already meafured with my 
 eyes thofe immenfe defarts into which I was 
 going to penetrate. 
 
 Cape Town is fituated on the declivity of 
 the Table and Lion Hills. It forms an amphi- 
 theatre, which extends as far as the borders 
 of the fea. The ftreets, though broad, are 
 not commodious, becaufe they are ill paved. 
 The houfes, which are almoft all built in aa 
 
 I uniform 
 
i6 TRAVELS IN 
 
 uniform manner, are beautiful and fpacloiis j 
 but they are covered with reeds, to guard 
 againft thofe accidents which might be occa- 
 fioned by heavy roofs during the time of hur- 
 ' ricanes. The interior part of thefe houfes 
 difpiays no marks of frivolous luxury ; all the 
 furniture is in a noble and fimple tafte: no 
 tapeflries are ever feen in them ; a few paint- 
 ings and mirrors form their principal orna- 
 ments. The entrance to the city by the 
 fquare of the fort prefents a noble view^ 
 efpecially as the greater part of the fine edi- 
 fices have been erected there. On one fide 
 appears the Company's garden, in its full ex- 
 tent ; on the other the fountains, the ftreams 
 of which flow down from the Table Hill 
 through a fiffuie, which is perceived from 
 the city and from the whole harbour. This 
 water is excellent, and furnifhes abundance 
 for the confumption of the inhabitants, as 
 well as for fupplying fuch veflels as touch 
 here. 
 
 The men appeared to me to be in general 
 v/ell made, and the women to be pretty. I 
 was furprifed to fee the latter drefs with as 
 much attention to the minutias of elegance as 
 the ladies in France ; but they have neither 
 
 tlieir 
 
AFRICA* 17 
 
 their manners nor graces. As the children are 
 always fuckled by female flaves, the familiarity 
 which reigns between them has a great influ- 
 ence upon their manners and education. That 
 of the men is flill more negle6:ed ; if we ex- 
 cept the children of the great, who are fent to 
 Europe to be inftrudled* At the Cape, there are 
 no other teachers of youth but writing-mafters. 
 Almoft all the ladies play on theharpfichord; 
 this is their fole accom.pliihment. They love 
 finging, and are remarkably fond of dancing ; 
 on this account it Is rare not to fee feveral balls 
 every week. The officers of the fhips which 
 touch here, and which lie fome time in the 
 roads, often afford them an opportunity of in- 
 dulging in this pleafure. Upon my arrival, 
 the governor ufed to give a public ball every 
 month, and the principal people of the town 
 followed his example. 
 
 I was aftonifhed to find neither a coffee- 
 houfe nor a tavern, in a place at which fo 
 many ftrangers arrive ; but one may procure 
 lodgings in every private houfe. The ufual 
 charge for bed and board is a dollar a day; 
 which is dear enough, when we confider the 
 cheapnefs of the produdlions of the country. 
 During my refidence here butchers meat was 
 
 Vol. I. C ex- 
 
i8 TRAVELS IN 
 
 exceedingly cheap. I have feen thuteen pounds 
 of mutton fold for about fixpence fterling, an 
 ox for twelve or fifteen rixdollars^^, ten quar- 
 ters of corn for fourteen or fifteen, and fo in 
 proportion for other things. During the war 
 the price of every commodity was raifed to an 
 exorbitant degree ; and in the latter part of it 
 forty-five rixdollars were given for a wretched 
 bag of potatoes, and above two fhillings fter- 
 ling for a fmall cabbage. The charge for 
 board, however, was not increafed, 
 
 Fifh are very abundant at the Cape. Among 
 thofe moft efteemed, the principal are the roo-^ 
 man^ a red fifh found in the bay of Falfo ; and 
 the klepvis^ which has no fcales, and w^hich 
 is caught on the rocks bordering the fea ; the 
 Jleenbraafen^ the fiompneus^ and fome others.. 
 Thefe excellent fifh make a confpicuous figure 
 at every good table. Oyfters are. very rare 
 here, and none are found any where but in 
 the bay of Falfo. Eels however are ftill more 
 uncommon. Crayfifli I never faw ; but the 
 people eat fea eai's, wdiich are called klepkon- 
 fen. 
 
 * A rixdollvir is sbout three fhillings and nine pence^ 
 fVerling. 
 
 To 
 
AFRICA. 19 
 
 To find game, one muft go a great many- 
 leagues from the Cape. The moft common 
 kinds are the Jleenbock^ the duyker^ the ree-^ 
 bock^ the gryfoock^ the bontebock^ and all the 
 different fpecies of antelopes, concerning 
 which I fhall fpeak more at length in my de- 
 fcription of quadrupeds. Hares, above all 
 that fmall fpecies called the dowji hare^ are 
 found here in great abundance, but they have 
 not the flavour of ours. 
 
 Partridges alfo of different kinds, fmaller or 
 larger, and more or lefs delicious than thofe of 
 Europe, are found here ; but the quail and 
 the fnipe do not differ from ours. They are 
 never feen here but in their paffage. 
 
 Whatever the enthufiafts of the Cape may 
 fay, I am of opinion that our fruits tranfplanted 
 thither have greatly degenerated. The grapes 
 alone appeared to me to be delicious ; cherries 
 are fcarce and bad ; pears and apples are not 
 much better, and foon fpoil. The citrons, 
 however, and the oranges, efpecially that kind 
 called nareteyes^ are excellent : the figs are de- 
 licate and wholefome ; but the fmall banana, 
 or pifcing^ has a bad tafte. Is it not aftonifh- 
 ing that in fo fine a country, and under fo 
 pure a (ky. If we except a few difmal bays, 
 
 C 2 no 
 
^o TRAVELS IN 
 
 no indigenous fruits are to be found ? Afpa- 
 ragus and artichokes do not grow at the Cape, 
 but all the other produQions of our kitchen- 
 gardens in Europe feem to be naturalized: 
 one might enjoy them the whole year, did 
 not the fouth-eaft wind, which prevails for 
 three months, dry the earth to fuch a degree 
 as to render it incapable of every kind of cul- 
 tivation ; it blows with fuch fury, that it is 
 neceflary, in order to preferve plants, to fur- 
 round all the beds of a garden with clofe pa- 
 lifades made of young elms. The fame me- 
 thod is purfued with refpedl to young trees ; 
 which, notwitftanding thefe precautions, ne- 
 ver fhoot forth branches on the windward 
 fide ; and always incline to the other, w^hich 
 gives them a difmal appearance: in general, 
 it is very difficult to rear them. 
 
 I have often been a witnefs to the ravages 
 occafioned by this wind. In the fpace of 
 twenty-four hours the beft flocked gardens 
 appear as if dug up, and fwept. This wind 
 continues from January to April at this ex- 
 tremity of Africa, and extends even a great 
 way into the country. In the courfe of my 
 travels, it has fometimes overturned all my 
 carriages 5 and no other alternative has been 
 
 left 
 
AFRICA. 21 
 
 kft me but to tie them to large bulhes, to 
 prevent them from being thrown topfy- 
 turvy. 
 
 At the Cape, this wind is announced by a 
 fmall white cloud, which at firft attaches it- 
 felf to the fummit of the Table Hill, on 
 the fide next to the Devil's Hill. The 
 air then begins to become cooler ; by and by 
 the cloud increafes, and expands till it grows 
 fo large that it covers the whole top of the 
 mountain : it is then commonly faid that 
 the ?nou?itain has put on its peruke. The cloud, 
 however, advances with a rapid motion, and 
 hovers over the city: one would then fay 
 that it was about to be inundated and buried 
 by a deluge; but, in proportion as it ap- 
 proaches the bottom of the mountain, it eva- 
 porates, and appears to be reduced to nothing. 
 The heavens continue calm and ferene, with- 
 out any interruption ; and the mountain 
 alone, for a fhort moment, has a gloomy 
 afped:, while it is deprived by that veil of 
 the cheering prefence of the fun. 
 
 I have fpent whole mornings in examining 
 this phenomenon, without being able to com- 
 prehend the caufe of it; but afterwards, when. 
 1 frequented the Bay of Falfo, on the oppo- 
 
 C 3 fite 
 
Z2 TRAVELS IN 
 
 fite fide of the mountain, I have often en^ 
 joyed the pleafure of feeing its commence-* 
 ment and progrefs. The wind at firft an- 
 nounces itfelf very feebly, carrying flowly 
 along with it a kind of fog, which it feems 
 to detach from the furface of the fea. This 
 being accumulated, becomes condenfed by the 
 Table Hill towards the fouth, an obftacle 
 which oppofes it in its way ; and in order to 
 overcome it, gradually rolling over itfelf, it 
 rifes by its efforts to the fummit, and dif- 
 plays to the town that white cloud which an- 
 nounces the wind, which has already blown 
 for feveral hours, in the harbour and its 
 environs, towards the face of the Table 
 Hill. 
 
 The ordinary duration of this kind o? 
 ftorm is three days; fometimes it continues, 
 without remiffion, for a much longer fpace 
 of time ; often, alfo, it ceafes fuddenly ; and 
 during the three months when it prevails, if 
 it happen to ceafe feveral times in this man-t 
 ner it is a fure fign that great ficknefs will 
 follow. 
 
 Though this wind is not abfolutely dange- 
 rous for (hips, there have been more than one 
 
 iuftcince of its incommoding a great many. 
 
 When 
 
AFRICA. 
 
 23 
 
 When It IS too impetuous, from prudence, 
 and to avoid even the fear of an accident, 
 they make for the open fea; but, when it col- 
 lects no fog, it is not perceived in the town, 
 and blows only in the road. It is therefore 
 the accumulation of the fog, which, moving 
 forward with great velocity, occafions thefe 
 dreadful hurricanes. Very often it is impof- 
 fible to crofs the ftreets, and notwlthftanding 
 the care and attention with which doors and 
 windows are ihut,tlie duft penetrates even into 
 trunks and chefts of drawers. But, however 
 inconvenient this wund may be, it ftill procures 
 great advantages to the town ; it frees it from 
 mephitic vapours, occafioned by the filth which 
 is naturally collected on the borders of the 
 fea, by that which the inhabitants throw into 
 it, and ftill more by the bloody remains 
 which the Company's butchers (who ufe nei- 
 ther the heads, feet, nor inteftines of thp ani- 
 mals they kill) throw av/ay, and leave at the 
 doors of their {hops; where, being collefted 
 into heaps, they become corrupted, infedt the 
 air and the inhabitants, and add ftrength to 
 thofe epidemical difeafes too common at the 
 Cape in the feafon when the fouth eaft wind 
 has not prevailed. The moft dangerous and 
 
 C 4 dreadful 
 
24 TRAVELS IN 
 
 dreadful diforder here is the fore throat. PeCK 
 pie of the ftrongefl conftitutions often fall a 
 facrifice to it in three or four days: it is fo 
 violent, that they have fcarcely time to coun- 
 teradl its effe<fls by the affiftance of medicine. 
 
 The fmall pox is another fcourge in all the 
 colonies here. Before the arrival of the Eu- 
 ropeans, this diftemper v^as not known; and 
 fince the Dutch have pofleffed the Cape, it 
 has been within a hair's breadth of deftruc- 
 tion. The firfl: time of its appearance, more 
 than two-thirds of the inhabitants perifhed. 
 Its ravages, however, w^ere fiill more deftruc- 
 tive among the Hottentots; it appeared that 
 this malady attacked them fooner than others : 
 atprefent they are very much fubjecl to it. 
 
 As this diftemper was brought to the Cape 
 by fome vefTels from Europe, the Company's 
 lurgeons are always fent to examine with the 
 utmoft care fuch fhips as arrive in the roads. 
 On the leaft appearance of infec^lion, the crew 
 are rigoroufly interdided from having any 
 communication with the towTi or its inhabi- 
 tants; and an embargo is laid on the goods, 
 no part of which, however fmall, is fuffered 
 to be brought on fhore. Were it difcovered 
 that a captain had found means to conceal 
 
 thjs 
 
AFRICA. ^5 
 
 this diforder on board of his fhip, he and his 
 officers would be immediately degraded, and 
 condemned to pay a very heavy fine, if the 
 vefiel belonged to the Company, I include 
 the officers ; becaufe, as each of them is obliged 
 to anfwer for that part of the vefTel which 
 concerns him, it would not be poffible to con-» 
 ceal the infection without the knowledge and 
 unanimous confent of the crew. Did the fhip 
 belong to a foreign power, nothing could fave 
 it from confifcation, ' 
 
 The wet feafon begins generally towards 
 the end of April; and the rains are more 
 abundant and more frequent in the town 
 than any where elfe in the neighbourhood; 
 which may be accounted for in the following 
 manner: — ^At the Cape the north wind pro- 
 duces the fame effeft as the fouth-weft does 
 in France : it carries along with it the clouds, 
 which, paffing over the town, are Hopped by 
 their impulfe againft the Table, Devil, and 
 Lyon Hills. Continual rains prevail then 
 at the Cape; whilft the neighbouring parts 
 to the diftance of two miles around, enjoy 
 dry weather, and a fky perfectly ferene. 
 Sometimes they fall over the whole fpace 
 contained between T^ble Bay and the Bay of 
 
 Falfo, 
 
^6 TRAVELS IN 
 
 Fallb, to the eaft of that chain pf enormous 
 mountams which extends to the very extre- 
 mity of Africa; whjlfl: the eaPcern coaft is 
 clear and entirely free from clouds. This is 
 but a faint pidure of what happens on the 
 Coromandel and Malabar coaflsj except that 
 this phenomenon is more wonderful here, be- 
 caufe it is nearer, and much better perceived. 
 Indeed, if two friends fet out for the Bay of 
 Falfo, he who purfues his route on the eaft- 
 ern fide of the mountain, carries his um- 
 brella with him, to defend himfelf from the 
 rain ; but he who paffes on the weft fide, 
 takes it that he may flielter bimfelf from the 
 beams of the fun. 
 
 Strangers are generally well received at the 
 Cape by thofe who are in the Company's fer- 
 vice, and by fome others who are private peo- 
 ple; but the Englifh are adored, either on 
 account of the fimilarity between the manners 
 of the two nations, or of their very much af- 
 feding to be generous. It is an undoubted 
 fad, that, whenever they arrive, every one is 
 eager to offer them lodging. In lefs than 
 eight days every thing becomes Englifh in 
 the houfe upon which they have fixed their 
 choice ; and the mafter, the miftrefs, and even 
 2 the 
 
AFRICA. 27 
 
 the children, foon affume their manriers, At 
 table, for example, the knife never fails to 
 difcharge the oflice of the fork. 
 
 Of all nations, the French are the leaft ef-^ 
 teemed; the citizens, above all, cannot en-* 
 dure them ; and this hatred is often carried 
 fo far, that I have heard fome of the inha- 
 bitants fay, they had much rather be takeri 
 by the Englifh, than owe their fafety to the 
 ^rms of the French nation. Such converfa-? 
 tion I at firft confidered as exaggeration ; and 
 thought, on the contrary, that thefe people 
 formed to themfelves an illufion at pleafure, 
 to leffen in their own eyes the merit of thofe 
 fervices which France then rendered them, 
 and to get rid privately of the burden im- 
 pofed..on them by gratitude. However this 
 may be, I am ftill of opinion that the French 
 would have had great caufe to complain of 
 this colony, had not fome people of diftinc*. 
 tion, whofe prudence checked the murmurs of 
 the populace, piade fome amends for the in*. 
 juftice of this enmity, by thofe obliging fer*- 
 vices and effential fuccours which the circum*. 
 ftances of the time rendered a part of their 
 duty. Thefe worthy men were not negledl- 
 ed by the French miniftry, who honoured 
 
 one 
 
2S TRAVELS IN 
 
 one of them with a letter of thanks from the 
 fovereign. Who is there who has not had 
 occafion to praife the noble and difmterefted 
 behaviour of Mr. Boers, the fifcal ? and who 
 18 there who will not always preferve the re- 
 membrance of it in his heart? For my part, 
 I render him the purefl and the moft fincere 
 homage ; and may this truth, which I cannot 
 conceal, as much preferve the remembrance 
 of his name as it will offend his modefty. 
 
 DEPARTURE FOR SALDANHA BAY. 
 
 J. HE news of a rupture betw^een England 
 and Holland, which had reached the Cape 
 before our arrival — and thofe ftill more pofi- 
 tive brought by us, that the enemy were ex-r 
 erting themfelves with the utmoft vigilance — 
 made us apprehend that we fhould foon re- 
 ceive a vifit from them. Government there^ 
 fore imagining that no time ought to be loft, 
 and that the fhips which were lying in Table 
 Bay fliould immediately take flielter in that of 
 
 Sal- 
 
 til 
 
AFRICA. 
 
 29 
 
 Saldanlia, where they might be in more fafety 
 from the Englifh, an order was given for that 
 purpofe to all the captains. This event feem- 
 ing to favour my defigns ; I propofed to de* 
 part with the fleet ; and Mr. Vangenep, who 
 commanded the Mildelburg, having been fo 
 kind as to offer me the beft accommodation 
 ort board his veffel, and every affiftance ne- 
 ceffary to enable me to reap benefit from mj 
 Intended refearches, as foon as we fliould ar- 
 rive at the Bay, I accepted his friendihip with 
 equal readinefs and gratitude. Ordering my 
 baggage, therefore, to be embarked, we fet 
 fail on the loth of May, in company with 
 four other veffels ; and next morning came to 
 anchor in Saldanha. 
 
 This bay extends obliquely, towards the 
 right of its mouth, about feven or eight 
 leagues; and on the left of the entrance 
 there is a fmall creek called Hoetjes Bay^ m 
 which ten or twelve Ihips of war might an- 
 chor on a very good bottom: veffels of lefs 
 burden might penetrate much farther, and even 
 to the fmall ifle of Schaapen Eyland^ which 
 would afford them very good fhelter. The wa- 
 ter found here is inferior, indeed, to that of the 
 Cape, but during the bad monfoons it changes 
 
 its 
 
36 TRAVELSIN 
 
 Its nature and becomes excellent. The pea^ 
 fants in the neighbourhood fupply fuch fliips 
 as remain in the Bay with provifions of every 
 kind, at a much cheaper rate than they could 
 be procured at in the town ; fo that a veflel 
 fi'om Europe, outward bound, if prevented 
 by the fouth-eaft v/ind, wliich is unfavour- 
 able for reaching Table Bay, may eafily gain 
 that of Saldanha, and be certain of finding 
 every kind of refrefhment in abundance* 
 Near this place the company keep a pofl: of 
 a few men, under the command of a corporal | 
 who, as fbon as he perceives a vefTel in the 
 entrance of the Bay, fends an exprefs by land, 
 to inform the governor. 
 
 The cachalof'^^ a kind of whale which 
 the Dutch call noord kaaper^ is always found 
 in great plenty fporting in the bafon, I have 
 often fired balls at them, when they raifed 
 themfelves upright above the furface of the 
 water, but I never obferved that they made 
 the leaft impreffion. We found a prodigious 
 number of rabbits in the fmall ifle of Schaa* 
 
 * The cachalot was generally known under the name of 
 the fper'maceti whale, till Mr. Pennant very properly made 
 a diftin6tion, by borrowing its name from the French. T. 
 
 pen 
 
AFRICA. 3S 
 
 pen Eyland: it became our warren, and was 
 an excellent refource for the feamen. 
 
 Game of all kinds Is very abundant In the 
 neighbourhood. — The principal are fmall an- 
 telopes, and all thofe of which I have already 
 fpoken. Partridges and hares are found here 
 alfo ; but the difficulty of continually mount- 
 ing or defcending among the fands with 
 which this place is bordered, renders it a 
 very fatiguing and laborious tafk to purfue 
 them. Panthers are common here, but they 
 are lefs ferocious than thofe of other parts of 
 Africa ; becaufe, finding a ready fupply of 
 food In the game, they are never tormented 
 by hunger. 
 
 Some days after my arrival, the com- 
 mander of the foldicrs ftatloned here having 
 invited me to go on a hunting party with 
 him, we fet out next morning. Though we 
 fav7 great plenty of game, we could not catch 
 any thing ; but towards evening, having ac- 
 cldently feparated, as if fate wifhed to fami- 
 liarize me ail of a fudden to thofe dangers 
 which I had come fo far in fearch of, I re- 
 ceived for the firft time, a leffon I little ex- 
 peGed, and which I am convinced would 
 have made more than one brave citizen fhud- 
 
 der.~ 
 
3a TRAVELS IN 
 
 den — The fhots which I had fired here and 
 there having roufed a fmall antelope, my dog 
 fet out to purfiie it 5 and flopping at a very 
 large biiili, began to bark, running continu- 
 ally round it. Imagining that the antelope 
 had retired thither, I ran up to it, in hopes 
 of being able to kill it ; and my prefence and 
 voice feemed to add greatly to the courage of ' 
 my dog. I every moment expeded that the 
 antelope would appear ; but, impatient at not 
 feeing it come forth, I penetrated into the 
 heart of the thicket, beating on every fide 
 with my mufket, to remove the branches 
 which intercepted my paflage. But words 
 can hardly exprefs the ftupor and terror 
 which froze the blood in my veins, when, 
 having reached the centre of the bufli, I faw, 
 flaring me in the face, a furious and mon- 
 ftrous panther: its attitude after it perceived 
 me, its flaming eye-balls fixed upon me, its 
 neck ftretched out, its jaws half extended, 
 and its hollow roaring, all feemed to an- 
 nounce my deftrudtion. I indeed already 
 believed that I was devoured ; but the cool 
 courage of my dog faved my life. By keep- 
 ing the animal at bay, and making him hefi- 
 tate between rage and fear, I had leafure to 
 
 return 
 
AFRICA. 33 
 
 return foFtly to the borders of the thicket ; 
 , whilft my admirable dog kept clofe to his 
 mafter, refolved no doubt to peri{h along with 
 him. When I had reached plain ground, I 
 made towards the public road as foon as 
 poffible, calling every now and then a look 
 behind me. Hearing at a diftance feveral re- 
 ports of a mufket fired, at certain intervals, 
 I concluded that they muft proceed from my 
 companion, who was looking for me. As it 
 was now night, I had no defire to rejoin him, 
 and I fuffered him to fire aWay at his plea- 
 fure; he however arrived, but very late. 
 His furprife at feeing me perfectly fafe and 
 found, was equal to his joy ; for he con- 
 feffed that, from the manner in which my 
 dog barked, he judged I was engaged with an 
 hysena, or a tyger; and that, not hearing me 
 return an anfwer when he fired his mufket, 
 he believed that I was torn to pieces. This 
 adventure, w^hich I related to him with all its 
 particulars, made us both laugh heartily ; but 
 what he told me refpeding the courfe I ought 
 to have purfued in this rencontre, made me 
 regret much that I did not fire upon the ani- 
 mal. Being as yet a novice in the country 
 ofthefe ferocious hearts, this was the firft I 
 
 Tdt UmStU ntlc-Js 2^=*^6^-i'^ r<.?..*.2.J'a ^.^5u»i 
 
 \K 
 
34 TRAVELS IN 
 
 had ever beheld lb near, and I was altogether 
 ignorant how to proceed with a panther. In 
 this manner did I amufe my leifure hours, 
 and prepare myfelf infenfibly for greater dan- 
 gers. 
 
 We often went to the Ille of Schaapen, to 
 kill rabbits. In one of thefe excurfions, 
 which had before afforded us much pleafure, 
 we had a very narrow efcape from deftruc- 
 tion. A whale rofe all of a fudden near our 
 boat, and filled us with great terror. It v/as 
 fo near us, that fearing left, when it dived 
 again, it might overfet the boat, and fuik it 
 by its enormous weight, the failors threw 
 themfelves into the fea ; but the man at the 
 helm turned the boat with fo much expedi- 
 tion, that we efcaped the monfter. This 
 animal, which darted at leaft twelve feet out 
 of the water, befprinkled us all when it 
 dived ; and our boat received fuch a violent 
 fhock, that it was almoft overwhelmed. 
 Had it not been for the good condud of our 
 pilot, not one of us would have efcaped 
 death. 
 
 This whale is generally from fixty to 
 eighty feet long, and fometimes more. It ' 
 oft times emerges from the fea with half its 
 
 body; 
 
AFRICA. 35 
 
 body ; and when this heavy mafs falls back 
 again it makes a noife as loud as the report of 
 a cannon. 
 
 One evening, while at fupper, our veffel 
 received a ihock which made her reel in fo 
 e:5itraordinary a manner, that, not knowing 
 what might be the caufe of it, we quitted the 
 table with great precipitation, and ran upon 
 deck. The alarm became general through- 
 out the crew. Vangenep believed that we 
 had driven on our anchors, and that we were 
 ftriking on fome rock ; but obferving, by the 
 pofition of the other fhips, that we had not 
 moved from our place, it was concluded that 
 fomething elfe muft be the caufe of that extra- 
 ordinary motion, and our confternation be- 
 came redoubled. Having in vain attempted 
 to difcover from what it proceeded, we at 
 length perceived a whale, which, rifmg before 
 us, had, in diving again, paffed between our 
 two cables, which crofled one another* As 
 the animal happened to be impeded by its 
 tail, which is exceedingly broad, the violent 
 efforts it made to difengage itfelf had fhaken, 
 and even then fhook, our vefleL The people 
 immediately jumped into the boats, and ran to 
 their harpoons ; but the darknefs of the night 
 
 D 2 unluckily 
 
:i6 TRAVELS IN 
 
 unluckily prevented them from employing the 
 neceflary manoeuvres to kill it 5 and the mo- 
 ment when the boats were approaching, it 
 got itfelf difentangled. Every one was vexed 
 at this difappointment. As for me, I regretted 
 it much, until chance enabled me afterwards 
 to get one into my power* When the danger 
 was paft, we again fat down to table ; and 
 as a falfe alarm is always fucceeded by the 
 livelieft joy, we amufed ourfelves in jeering 
 one another, and in reciprocally painting the 
 different impreffions which fear had made on 
 each of the guefts, without fparing any one. 
 
 The vigilance of Vangenep, and the prom- 
 titude with which he gave his orders on this 
 occafion, were to me a certain evidence that 
 he himfelf was under great uneafmefs ; but he 
 fuffered nothing to appear : fo true it is that 
 the coolnefs of a commander conceals danger, 
 and encourages thofe who are under him. 
 Such ought to be the condud: of a good fea 
 officer, even till the laft moment. The con- 
 fternation foon becomes general, wiien the 
 crew obferve any marks of terror imprinted on 
 the countenance of their captain. I then re- 
 colleded the proof which I had feen of this, 
 paffing the Line, when we fhamefully fuffered 
 J ourfelves 
 
AFRICA. 37 
 
 ourfelves to be cannonaded by a petty pri- 
 vateer. 
 
 At the entrance of Saldanha Bay there is 
 feen alfo a fmall ifle, called Dajfen Eyland^ or 
 the Ifle of Marmots. I do not know if any 
 of thefe animals were ever found here at any 
 former period, but I obferved none. A tra- 
 dition known to all travellers had informed 
 me, that a Danifh ihip, being prevented by 
 contrary winds from entering the roads at the 
 Cape, took fhelter in this bay ; and that, 
 after remaining here fome time, the captain 
 Happening to die, his crew buried him in this 
 fmall ifland, and erected a tomb to his me- 
 mory. 
 
 Every time I paffed this ifle, in order to go 
 to Schaapen Eyland^ my ears were aflailed by 
 a hollow found which had in it fomething 
 very difmal and terrifying. Having mentioned 
 it to my captain, he told me that, if I was 
 defirous, and if it would give me the leaft 
 pleafare, he would land there, efpecially as 
 he himfelf wiflied to fee the Danifli tomb. 
 Next morning therefore he gave orders for 
 this purpofe, and we fet out. 
 
 In proportion as we approached, this hol- 
 low noife excited our curiofity the more, 
 
 D 3 an4 
 
38 TRAVELS IN 
 
 and the fea breaking with great violence a- 
 gainft the rocks which form a rampart round 
 this ifle, ftill added to the murmuring found, 
 the caufe of which we had not been able to 
 difcover. 
 
 Being at length arrived, we were obliged 
 to wade through the water; as the furf was 
 fo violent that the boat could not approach 
 near enough the ftiore, where we were every 
 moment covered with the fpray : but, having 
 at length clambered up the rocks, with no 
 little difficulty and danger, we beheld fuch a 
 fpedacle as never, perhaps appeared to the 
 eye of mortal. All of a fudden there arofe 
 from the whole furface of the ifland an im^- 
 penetrable cloud, which formed, at the 
 diilance of forty feet above our heads, an im- 
 menfe canopy, or rather a Iky, compofed of 
 birds of every fpecies, and of all colours : cor- 
 morants, fea-gulls, fea-fwallows, pelicans, and 
 I believe all the winged tribe of this part of 
 Africa, were here affembled. All their 
 voices mixed together, and modified accord- 
 ing to their different kinds, formed fuch a 
 horrid mufic, that I was every moment 
 obliged to cover my head, to prevent it from 
 J being 
 
AFRICA. 39 
 
 being torn to pieces, and to give a little re- 
 lief to my earsi 
 
 ' The alarm which we fpread was fo much 
 the more general among thefe innumerable 
 legions of birds, as we principally difturbed 
 the females who were then fitting. They 
 had nefts, eggs, and young to defend. They 
 were like furious harpies let loofe againfl us ; 
 and their cries rendered us almoft deaf. They 
 often flew fo near us, that they flapped their 
 wings in our faces ; and, though we fired 
 our pieces repeatedly, we were not able to 
 frighten them : it feemed almofl: impoflTible to 
 difperfe this cloud. We could not move one 
 ftep without crufhing either their eggs or 
 their young ones, fo that the earth was en« 
 tirely fl:rewed with them. 
 
 The caverns and crevices of the rocks 
 were inhabited hj phocce and morfes^ a kind 
 of fea-calves and fea-lions. Among others, 
 we killed one of the latter, which was of 
 an immenfe fize. 
 
 The fmaller crevices ferved as places of re- 
 treat for penguins, which fwarm here above 
 every other kind. This bird, which is about 
 two feet in length, does not carry its body in 
 the fame manner as others \ it fl:ands perpen- 
 
 D 4 dicularly 
 
40 TRAVELS IN 
 
 dicularly on its two feet, which gives it an 
 air of gravity, fo much the niore ridiculous, 
 as its wings, which have no feathers, hang 
 carelefsly down on each fide : it never ufes 
 them but in fwimming. As we advanced 
 towards the middle of the ifland, we met in- 
 numerable troops of them. Standing firm 
 and eredl on their legs, thefe animals never 
 deranged themfelves in the leaft to let us pafs ; 
 they more particularly furrounded the mau- 
 foleum, and feemed as if determined to pre- 
 vent us from approaching it. AH the environs 
 were entirely befet with them. Nature had 
 done m^ore for the plain tomb of the poor 
 Danifh captain, than what the imagination 
 of poets goes fiu* in fearch -of, and what the 
 chifel of our artifts executes at a great ex- 
 pence : the hideous owl, however well fculp- 
 tured in our churches, has not half fo dead 
 and melancholy an air as the penguin. Th^ 
 iTiournful cries of this animal, mixed wath 
 thofe of the fea-calf, impreffed on my mind 
 a. kind of gloom, which difpofed me very 
 much for the tender fenfations of fadnefs and 
 grief. 1 fixed my eyes for fome time on this 
 l;ift afylum of an unfortunate traveller, and 
 honoured his rnanes with the tribute pf a. 
 
 fi^h« 
 
AFRICA. 41 
 
 figh. This monument, ereded no doubt in 
 hafte, prefented nothing remarkable : it was 
 of an oblong form, three feet in height ; and 
 conftrudled, without any mortar, of pieces of 
 the rock which furrounds the ifland. I fhould 
 have been glad to fearch the interior part of 
 this tomb, as it perhaps contained, along with 
 the difmal remains of the captain, the hiftory 
 of his death, or fome information refpedting 
 his family and country. Had I been alone, 
 I fhould have ventured to difturb his afhes ; 
 but before Dutch failors I was very cautious 
 not even to propofe it. Refped for the dead 
 is among them carried to the greateft excefs. 
 With an unpleafant eye they would have be- 
 held me lay my hands upon this folitary and 
 peaceful tomb ; and, as they are above all 
 cxceffively fuperftitious, if any accident had 
 afterwards befallen the Ihlp, they would not 
 . have failed to afcribe the caufe of it to me. 
 I therefore prudently held my tongue ; but, 
 on quitting the ifland, I privately referved to 
 myfelf a right of fome day returning to it. 
 
 We filled our boat with animals of all kinds 
 which we had caught. The penguins were 
 not forgotten ; and we extracted abundance 
 of oil from th^m for burning. 
 
 Our 
 
42 TRAVELS IN 
 
 Our failors alfo colled:ed a prodigious quan- 
 tity of eggs, which for feveral days fupplied 
 us with a nourifhment that we found deli- 
 cious and which very feafonably relieved us 
 from the necefiity of feeding upon the dry 
 and too uniform provifions of the fhip. 
 
 To this digreffion, which I confider as in- 
 terefting, I fliall add a few words refpedling 
 the fea-lion and the fea-calf. They have 
 been mentioned by a multitude of authors 
 under denominations fo different, and with 
 defcriptions fo erroneous, that nothing can 
 indeed be comprehended from them. With 
 regard to the firft of thefe monilers, I can 
 only fay, that I never obferved any of thofe 
 trunks half a foot in length, which, as we 
 are affured, hang from the upper jaw of the 
 male. In refped to the fecond, v^rhich the 
 Dutch have thus named, it is the fame animal 
 as that fliewn three or four years ago in one 
 of the fhops of the Palais-Roy aly and which 
 the people who exhibited it called 2ifea'tyger\ 
 while another of the fame fpecies was ihewn, a 
 few doors diftant, under a different name. It 
 was thus that, fifteen years ago, the fimple 
 credulous Parifians, who would not have gone 
 a fingle ftep to fee a camel, ran in crowds to 
 
 the 
 
AFRICA. 43 
 
 the fair of St. Germain, to ftare with wonder 
 at the gangan^ which was nothing elfe but a 
 camel, thus named by an impoftor. Such 
 deceptions are lefs ludicrous, as they deferve 
 to be condemned. They tend to propagate 
 ignorance among the indolent inhabitants of 
 the banks of the Seine, who, when they fa- 
 crifice their money to gratify vain curiofity, 
 ought alfo to make it contribute towards their 
 inftru£tion. 
 
 We had been only three months in the bay, 
 iand I had already made myfelf acquainted 
 with all the environs. I had been fo attentive 
 to my main objed, that even in that ihort 
 fpace of time I had formed a large and va- 
 luable colledlion of birds, fhells, infed:s, ma- 
 drepores, &c. But a fatal event, which took 
 place foon after, had nearly deprived me of 
 all the fruits of my labour, my refearches, and 
 my fatiguing excurfions. 
 
 An exprefs which we received over land 
 from the Governor, informed us that Mr. 
 SufFrein, after the affair of St Jago, had ar- 
 rived at the Cape, and that another French 
 fquadron was hourly expected. This exprefs 
 brought an order at the fame time to the 
 lield-JVoltemaadey the veffel which had car- 
 ried 
 
44 TRAVELS IN 
 
 ried me from Europe, to depart Immediately 
 for Ceylon, to which place fhe was bound. 
 My poor old captain* fet fail, therefore, in 
 the beginning of Auguft. This unlucky ihip 
 purfued me every where; and I believe it 
 was written in the book of P'ate, that fhe 
 fhould not depart until after having ruined 
 me. When I refledled on our ridiculous en- 
 gagement witli the privateer, I plainly forefaw 
 that the Held-Woltemaade would be no fooner 
 perceived by the Englifh, than fhe would be 
 taken ; which indeed afterwards happened. 
 Scarcely had fhe begun to proceed on her 
 voyage, when fhe fell in with the fquadron 
 under the command of commodore Johnftone, 
 to which fhe became an eafy prey. This 
 capture occafioned all our fubfequent misfor- 
 tunes. Through the fhameful imprudence of 
 the crew, Johnftone, having received what 
 information he wifhed for, made diredtly 
 towards us, and appeared at the mouth of the 
 bay under French colours. Every one be-; 
 lieved that the vefTels they faw were the com- 
 bined fleet which we expected; but a cutter, 
 a little way ahead, having hoifted an Englifh 
 
 * Captain S . V — -. 
 
AFRICA. 45 
 
 flag> fired a broadfide at us, which was fol- 
 lowed by a general difcharge from all the reft 
 of the fhips. Inferiority of number not per- 
 mitting our people to maintain the conflict, no 
 other refource was left us but to cut our ca- 
 bles, and to run out veflels afliore. We all, 
 therefore, quitted them ; and every one fought 
 for fafety by flight. Diforder and confufion 
 being foon fpread in every quarter, the unfor- 
 tunate veflels were abandoned to the moft 
 dreadful pillage ; every one endeavouring to 
 carry off* what he liked beft. My captain 
 fet fire to his veflfel, but the Englifli arrived 
 time enough to prevent the refl: from being 
 run afliore and burnt. The fear of being 
 purfued, taken, or maflacred by the enemy, 
 made the failors, ♦with the utmoft precipita* 
 tion, purfue their way to the Cape. Twenty 
 leagues of fand to traverfe, before they could 
 reach the town, had however difcouraged 
 many of them. Thefe miferable people had 
 fo overloaded themfelves, that they were un- 
 der the necefl^ity of leaving the half of their 
 effeds upon the road. They were ken lying 
 every where around, and the different paths 
 which they had taken were itrewed with 
 tliem. That day I was unluckily out on a 
 
 huntii;p- 
 
46 TRAVELS IN 
 
 hunting party ; but having heard the noife of 
 the cannon, I naturally concluded that fome 
 entertainment was given by our fquadron ; 
 and I haftened back to partake of it. When 
 I arrived on the Downs, what a fpeftacle did 
 I behold ! The Mildelburg blew up, and 
 in a moment the fca and the Iky were filled 
 with burning fragments. I had thus the 
 cruel mortification of feeing my colledions, 
 my fortune, my projed:s, and all my hopes, 
 rife to the middle regions, and evaporate 
 into fmoke. 
 
 The Englifh, however, flill continued to 
 fire towards the Downs, and to purfue thofe 
 ftragglers whom avarice had detained too 
 long aboard of our veflels. Of five pri- 
 foners, whom we had in our fliip, four 
 threw themfelves into the waves, on feeing 
 their country's flag, and got fafe to their 
 own fleet ; the fifth preferred going on fhore 
 with our people. Seeing him upon the 
 Downs, at the diftance of ten or twelve 
 paces from the fpot where I fl:ood, I im- 
 mediately knew him ; and whilft I was in- 
 terrogating him in his own language, as 
 well as I could, refpeding the dreadful ca- 
 taftrophe which had taken place, a cannon 
 
 bullet, 
 
AFRICA. 47 
 
 bullet, which carried off liis head, pre- 
 vented me from receiving a reply. Another 
 bullet from the fame broadfide, did the 
 fame thing to a large dog, which appeared 
 to be fearching for its mafter, and which 
 was running up to me with a wild and 
 terrified look. The effeds produced by thefe 
 two bullets making me apprehenfive of a 
 third, I inftantly quitted my ftation, and 
 fought a place of fhelter on the other fide 
 of the Downs. 
 
 The reader may eafily imagine what my 
 fituation muft have been after this adven- 
 ture. Suppofmg that I did not choofe to go 
 to the Cape to beg pecuniary affiftance, and 
 to add to the number of the unhappy victims 
 who had efcaped from the fire and the fword 
 of the enemy, infenfible to this fcene of 
 horror, in which I ought not to have run 
 any rlfque, fince no advantage was to be 
 expedied from It; without title, without 
 rank, and without commlfTion ; alone, ab- 
 fent from dear friends, who in Imagination 
 appeared before me ; diftant two rhoufand 
 miles from my wife, my children, and my 
 adopted country ; in wild regions, without 
 the hopes of finding even a calm and fafe 
 
 retreat ; 
 
4S TRAVELS IN 
 
 retreat ; having no other refources but my 
 fufee, ten ducats in my purfe, and the thin 
 drefs whfch I then wote-^what courfe could 
 I purfue, and what could I expeft was to be- 
 come of me? All thefe ideas rufhed into my 
 mind at once, and I felt the tears trickle down 
 my cheeks. In this deplorable fituation I 
 turned my eyes towards the fhore ; but I 
 there faw that the conquerors, who wer pur- 
 fuing the fugitives, would have my life in 
 their power, and with one difcharge of their 
 itiufkets might free me from all my miferies. 
 That moment, therefore, I formed a barbarous 
 wilh, and for the firft time found my heart 
 fteeled with ferocity. 
 
 Recovering however the ufe of my rea- 
 fon, and reflecting upon my youth, which 
 prefented a confoling fupport in my own 
 ftrength, I at laft formed my refolution, and 
 began to be a little eafier refpeftlng my fate. 
 
 It ftruck me in the mind that a planter, 
 whom I had feen feveral times in my excur- 
 fions, and who lived only at the diftance of 
 four leagues, would perhaps fuffer me to re- 
 fide at his houfe till I Ihould receive afTiftancc 
 from my family in Europe. I repaired, there- 
 fore, to his folitary habitation, and requefted his 
 
 friend- 
 
AFRICA. 49 
 
 friendfliip, whilft my misfortune was painted 
 in my countenance. Upon hearing my re- 
 queft, the feeUng Slaber ftretched out his 
 arms, and, feizing me by the hand, intro- 
 duced me to his family. Next morning I 
 imitated the perfevering fwallow, whofe neft 
 has been deftroyed by fome ruthlefs hand ; 
 and, not without forrow, began to form a 
 new collection. 
 
 Some days after we heard from the Cape, 
 and learned that all the captains had been 
 broke, except Vangenep, the only one who 
 had blown up his fhip ; by which noble ex- 
 ploit I was almoft ruijied for ever. 
 
 On their departure for the bay, they were 
 all ordered to blow up their fhips, in cafe 
 they fhould be attacked in a fituation in 
 which they could not defend themfelves ; 
 and they had received a hoeker^ or fmall 
 vefTel, which drew little water, and which 
 could penetrate into the bay much farther 
 than any other, to ferve as a general maga- 
 zine, where they might preferve the ropes, 
 fails, and rigging, of the whole fleet. This 
 part of the order was executed ; and had 
 the captain of the Hoeker fet fire to it, as he 
 was cxprefsly commanded, he would have 
 
 Vol. I. E thrown 
 
^o TRAVELS IN 
 
 thrown the Englifh into confufion, and per- 
 haps reduced them to the neceility of aban- 
 doning our fliips, from a want of the ropes 
 necefl'ary to carry them along with them. Be- 
 ing fituated much nearer the bottom of the bay 
 than the reft of the Ihips, whiiil the EngHlL 
 were keeping up a conllant hre, and taking 
 poffeffion of them, he had much more time 
 than was neceflliry to blow up his veflel. He 
 not only negle^Hed to make any difpofition 
 for this purpofe; but he quitted the veffel, 
 in order to fa\ e himfelf, on the appearance 
 of a cutter that came to attack him : he did 
 not even think of fetting fire to it ; and, by 
 a contradiction almoii inconceivable, and 
 which feems nearly allied to madnefs, he 
 burnt and reduced to aihes a beautiful habita- 
 tion, fituated at the extremity of the bay, in 
 a place where the water was fo fliallow that 
 even boats could fcarcely approach it. On 
 this account he was fued by Mr. Heufke, 
 the proprietor, who was convinced that the 
 captain would at leaft be obliged to make 
 good the damages. 
 
 Vangenep was the only captain who, upon 
 our arrival in the bay, above all things, fe- 
 rioufly began to make fuch preparations^ as 
 
 were 
 
AFRICA. 51 
 
 were indilpenfably neceflaiy for executing 
 with rigour the general orders given to all. 
 We had fluffed every part of our veffel with 
 tow dipped in oil, with faggots, pitch, and 
 combuftible fubftances of every kind, His 
 brother captains were therefore the lefs par- 
 donable, as their remaining three months idle 
 in this bay had afforded them fufficient leifure 
 to be prepared. We arrived here on the i ith 
 of May ; and it was about the middle of 
 Auguft when this difafler happened. 
 
 The officers and failors belonging to our 
 fhips, vv^ho had riki to the tov/n in a tumul- 
 tuous manner, foon fpread the news of our 
 misfortune. The fifcal, not feeing me re- 
 turn with the reft, and hearing no news of 
 me, made eve'ry poffible enquiry, and at 
 length difcovered the retreat I had chofen. 
 In a little time after he paid me a vifit ; and 
 I fmcerely regretted that I had fo foon lofl . 
 the confidence with which he had infpired 
 me. I eave him an account of the difmal 
 fituation to which I was reduced by the 
 common misfortune, and of the dreadful dif^ 
 trefs into which I was plunged by the lofs of 
 all that I poifeffed in the w^orld. I told him 
 the refolution I had formed of remaining 
 
 E 2 vvith 
 
5^ TRAVELS IN 
 
 with honefl Slaber until I flhould receive 
 letters from my relations ; and of endeavour- 
 ing in the mean time to repair the lofs of 
 my coHedions, and to renew my refearches 
 in natural hiftory. Mr, Boers heard me very 
 calmly, and without interrupting me. — But 
 why cannot I here perpetuate, in letters of 
 gold, his tender reproaches, and the preffing 
 invitations which he gave me to follow him ? 
 Without affuming any confequence, without 
 haughtinefs, and without the impertinent ver- 
 bofity of our patrons in Europe, but with 
 that open and fincere goodnefs of heart 
 which furveys mankind with the eye of be- 
 nevolence, and always coniiders thofe whom 
 it protefts as worthy of kindnefs — " Sir," faid 
 he, when I had ended my apology, " never 
 " forget that you have been recommended 
 " to me. The inftant I fee you opprefTed 
 " by misfortunes, is alfo the moment when 
 " I, in my turn, ought to merit the confi- 
 " dence of thofe friends who have depended 
 " upon me : I will therefore never betray 
 *' them. My houfe, my table, and every 
 " affiftance I can give, are at your fervice. 
 *' Refume your courage ; make new prepa- 
 " rations j return to your original plan ; and 
 
 " delay 
 
AFRICA. S3 
 
 " delay not to begin your intended travels, 
 " by -waiting for uncertain accounts from 
 " Europe. I will fupply you with whatever 
 " is neceffary for all your exigencies. Ao- 
 " cept my offer — I muft and I will have it 
 " fo." 
 
 In fuch affecting language did this man of 
 fenfibility addrefs me. A refufal would have 
 hurt him too much ; and I accepted his kind 
 offer. To this generous friend, therefore, was I 
 indebted for the ineftimable advantage of being 
 able to begin my preparations for this expe- 
 dition, to which I had long looked forward 
 with pleafure, and to make provifion for the 
 ruinous expence with which it was likely to 
 be attended. I cannot refled upon his kind- 
 nefs without pleafure ; and I muft ever en- 
 tertain a grateful remembrance of it. With 
 the like fenfations I recal to view what Mn 
 Hacker, the lieutenant-governor, did for me, 
 at the different times when I vifited the Cape; 
 and I muft return thanks alfo to Mr. Gordon, 
 the commander of the troops, for the fervices 
 he had in his power to render me, and of 
 which he was not fparing. His curious ob- 
 -fervations, publiihed in Holland by Allaman, 
 are efteemed j and I confefs that I am parti- 
 
 E 3 cularly 
 
54 TRAVELS IN 
 
 cularly indebted to him for a number of va-^ 
 luable details, which would have perhaps ef- 
 caped me, had it not been for the inftrudlions 
 and advice 1 received from him before my de- 
 parture for the interior parts of the country,, 
 into v^hich he himfelf had made fome jour- 
 neys* 
 
 I requefted permiffion to pafs two or three 
 weeks more at Saldanha, in order that I might 
 repair, if pofTible, a part of that lofs which 
 had been occafioned to me by the Englifh. As 
 I knew not whether I ihould afterwards have 
 an opportunity of reviiiting that fatal fpot, 
 I wiihed at leaft to procure fuch objedls as 
 I was well aflured I could not find any where 
 clfe. I knew the ground fo well, and I had 
 croffed it in fo many directions, that, I may 
 almoft fay, 1 had nothing to do but to lay my 
 hand upon them ; for, before the tragical ac- 
 cident which befel our veiTels, I purchafed a 
 •Jriorfe, and hired a Hottentot, who conducted 
 me to the mofl: fecret receffes. My hoft him^ 
 felf, as well as his two fons, allifted me greatly 
 in my refearches; on the leaft fign, they an- 
 ticipated my wiihes -, and I might have almoft 
 faid that they were under my comxmand, I 
 never beheld thefe worthy people v/ithout 
 2 aftonilh-. 
 
A F Pv I C .\. ss 
 
 aftonifliment, mixed with admiration. Be- 
 fides thefe, the good Siaber had alfo three 
 daughters, whofe perfons and figure were 
 really very engaging. The whole family 
 made a noble appearance ; they were all fix 
 feet in height. 
 
 The two weeks "ranted me by friendihlp, 
 with fo much diliiculty, I improved to the 
 beft advantage ; and my whole time was di- 
 vided between fhells, plants, and hunting : 
 the latter, above all, which was my ruling 
 paffion, continually expofed me to the 
 greatefl: dangers ; and acquired me a reputa- 
 tion for intrepidity, which was fpread to the 
 difl:ance of ten leagues around. 
 
 One evening, having returned very early, 
 I found waiting for me at our houfe one of 
 the inhabitants, named Smit, a perfon with 
 whom I was not acquainted. He had come to 
 requefl: our afiiftance againft a panther, which, 
 having for foine time taken up its refidence 
 in that canton, carried off regularly, every 
 night, fome of the cattle ; and, as his pro- 
 pofal gave me great pleafure, I readily agreed 
 to it. Happy at having an opportunity of 
 hunting this animal according to rule, I 
 trufted I fhould be able to revenge myfelf 
 
 E 4 for 
 
S6 TRAVELS IN 
 
 for the terror which one of the fame fpecies 
 had occafioned to me in Saldanha Bay, 
 
 Having agreed to fet out next morning, we 
 engaged fome young men in the neighbour-? 
 hood to join us. Obferving that they did not 
 confent with a good grace, I endeavoured to 
 make the moft timid afhamed ; and this gave 
 a kind of fpur to the reft. When about to 
 depart, we colleded all the dogs we could 
 find ; each armed himfelf cap-a-pie ; and, 
 when properly equipped, we all feparated, 
 as if we had been about to give an affault. 
 To enjoy a few hours refl;, and prepare my-, 
 felf for the fatigues of the next day, I threw 
 myfelf on my bed ; but impatience and joy 
 prevented me from clofing my eye-lids. By 
 the break of day I reached the plain, with my 
 efcort, where Smit and a few friends were 
 waiting for us. We amounted in all to 
 eighteen hunters ; our dogs formed a pack 
 of the fame number : and we learned that 
 a panther had carried off a fheep during the 
 night. 
 
 One of the barrels of my fufee was loaded 
 with very large ftiot, and the other with fmall 
 bullets ; befides this, I had a carabine loaded 
 with balls, which was carried by my Hotten- 
 tot, 
 
AFRICA. 
 
 57 
 
 tot, who followed me. The country being 
 very open, we obferved only a few detached 
 buflies here and there ; but we were obliged 
 to examine all thofe which we found in our 
 way with great precaution. 
 
 After fearching above an hour, we found 
 the iheep, one half of which only had been 
 devoured by the panther ; and we were now 
 certain, by this mark, that the animal was not 
 far diftant, and that it could not efcape us. 
 A few minutes after, indeed, our dogs, which 
 till then had done nothing but range through 
 the fields without any order, all of a fudden 
 colledied themfelves ; and, prefling together," 
 ruihed forwards two hundred paces from us, 
 to a very large bufh, where they began to 
 bark and howl with all their might. 
 
 Difmounting from my horfe, and running 
 towards the bufh, I took up my ftation upon 
 a fmall eminence, at the diftance of fifty paces; 
 but, looking behind me, I obferved difmay 
 painted in the countenances of all my compa- 
 nions. John Slaber, one of my hoft's fons, a 
 coloffus fix feet high, came, however, and 
 flood clofe by me ; faying that he would ra- 
 ther lofe his life than defert me. By the pal- 
 pitation of his heart, and his difordered looks, 
 I I con* 
 
58 TRAVELS IN 
 
 I concluded that the poor youth depended 
 Httle on his own courage, and I perceived 
 that he had need of fome refolute perfon to 
 revive his drooping fpirits. Whatever might 
 have been his terror, I am of opinion that he 
 thought himfelf in more fafety near me, 
 than in the middle of his daftardly com- 
 panions, vv^hom we faw ftraggling through 
 the plain, and keeping at a very refpedlful 
 diftance. 
 
 They had ail cautioned me, in cafe I fhould 
 get near enough to the animal to be heard, 
 that I ought not to cxj faa^ faa^ becaufe thefe 
 words would make the tiger furious; and that 
 he w^ould fpring upon the perfon who had pro- 
 nounced them fooner than upon any of the 
 reft : but as I was in the open plain, and in a 
 fpot where I could not be encumbered, I re- 
 peatedly cried ovxfaa^faa^ both to encourage 
 the dogs, and to drive the animal from its 
 hold; but all my attempts w^ere in vain : 
 the animal was as much frightened as the 
 dogs ; the former not daring to come forth, 
 nor the latter to enter the bufh. Among the 
 dogs, however, I obferved fome maftiffs, on 
 w^hich I might have depended, had their 
 ftrength been equal to their courage. My 
 
 bitcti 
 
A F p. I C A. 59 
 
 bitch alone, the finallefl: in the pack, always 
 appeared at the head of the reft 3 and alone 
 penetrated a little way into the buili. As fhe 
 knew my voice, flie was a good deal ani- 
 mated, and became much fiercer on that ac^- 
 count. 
 
 In the mean time the tiger fet up a dread- 
 ful howling ; and I every moment imagined 
 that I fav/ him fpringing forv/ard. The dogs, 
 on the leaft motion which he made, retreated 
 with precipitation ; and fcampered away as 
 fall as their legs could carry them. Some 
 mufket fhots, however, fired at random, at 
 length determined the animal : he inftantly 
 ftartedup: and this fudden apparition was a 
 fignal for every body to decamp. John Slaber 
 himfelf, who, formed like a Hercules, might , 
 have grappled with the animal, and ftrangled 
 him in his arms in a moment, became con^ 
 fufed ; and, being overcome by terror, fled 
 towards the reft, and abandoned mc to my 
 fate. I was therefore left with no other at^- 
 tendant but my Hottentot ; and the tiger, to 
 gain another bufh, palTed at the diftance of 
 fifty paces, which gave us an opportunity of 
 fainting him in his paflage w^ith three dif- 
 pharges of our mu&ets, 
 
 Thi3 
 
6o TRAVELS IN 
 
 The bufh in which he took flielter was 
 much fmaller, and neither fo high nor fo 
 thick as that which he had quitted. Some 
 traces of blood, which I oblerved, gave me 
 reafon to believe that I had wounded him ; 
 and the redoubled fury of the dogs convinced 
 me that I was right in my conjedure. Part 
 of my people then approached me ; but the 
 greater number of them had entirely difap- 
 peared. 
 
 We haraffed the animal for above an hour 
 more, and fired above forty fliots into the 
 bufli, till at length being tired, and lofmg all 
 patience at this fport, which produced no- 
 thing, I mounted rtiy horfe, and with great 
 precaution went to the fide oppofite to the 
 dogs ; imagining that, while his attention was 
 engaged in defending himfelf from them, 1 
 might eafily furprife him behind. The event 
 fhewed that I was not deceived : I foon ob- 
 ferved him fquatted down, and making ufe of 
 his fore paws to defend himfelf from my little 
 bitch ; for fhe approached fo near him, con- 
 tinually barking, as almoft to be within his 
 reach. When I had taken a proper aim, I 
 difcharged my carabine, which I inftantly 
 dropped, in order that I might lay hold of my 
 
 double- 
 
AFRICA. 6i 
 
 double-barrelled fuzee, which I carried at the 
 bow of my faddle. This precaution, how- 
 ever, was needlefs ; the animal did not ap- 
 pear ; and, after I had fired, I faw nothing 
 more of him. Though I was certain that I 
 had hit him, it would have been highly im- 
 prudent to penetrate immediately into the 
 thicket. Not hearing him, I fuppofed that he 
 was dangeroufly wounded ; and calling out to 
 fuch of my brother fportfmen as were collected 
 together — " My friends," faid I, " let lis all 
 *' advance towards him, in a clofe line afront ; 
 " if he is ftill alive, and makes his appear- 
 " ance, our pieces, difcharged at once, muft 
 " deftroy him. What rifque can we run ?" 
 Upon hearing thefe words, they all anfwered 
 with one voice ; but their anfwer was in the 
 negative. In fhort, my propofal was relifhed 
 by nobody. Fired with indignation at their 
 timidity, " Friend," faid I to my Hottentot, 
 who' was no lets animated than his mafter, 
 " the animal muft either be dead, or ex- 
 " tremely ill. Get on horfeback, approach 
 *' in the fame manner as I did, and endea- 
 " vour to difcover in what fituation he is: 
 " leave me to guard the entrance ; and, if he 
 " attempts to efcape, I hope I Ihall be able to 
 
 " difpatch 
 
61 TRAVELSIN 
 
 *' difpatch him. We may complete the bu-^ 
 " fmefs, without the affiflance of thefe pol- 
 *' troons." He had no fooner entered, than 
 he called out to me, that he perceived the 
 tiger extended at his length, without any ap- 
 parent motion ; and that he believed him to 
 be dead. That he might, however, be fure 
 of it, he fired one fhot more ; upon which I 
 tan up, my whole body being agitated with 
 gladnefs and exultation, while my courageous 
 Hottentot fhared in my tranfports. Joy hav- 
 nig redoubled our ftrength, we dragged the 
 animal to the open plain ; and, when dif- 
 played to view, he appeared to be of an enor- 
 mous fize. I then began to take his dimen- 
 fions with the utmoft exadnefs : I turned 
 him over and over again, in every diredion ; 
 and examined him with the greateft care. I 
 furveyed him with a kind of pride. This 
 was my firft attempt ; and the tiger, which 
 was a male one, happened to be prodigioufly 
 large. From the extremity of his tail to the 
 tip of his muzzle, he meafured feven feet two 
 inches ; and in circumference two feet ten. 
 I obferved in him all the characters of the 
 panther, fo well defcribed by BufFon ; but in 
 the fettlements here he is known by no other 
 
 name 
 
AFRICA. 6;^ 
 
 name than that of the tiger. This appella- 
 tion has become prevalent ; though in all thin 
 part of Africa there are no real tigers, and 
 though there is a very great difference be- 
 tween thefe tvv^o animals. The Hottentots 
 call him garou gama ; that is to lay, the 
 fpotted lion. 
 
 In general, in the fettlements near the Cape, 
 the panther is much more dreaded than the 
 lion. The latter never approaches without 
 giving warning by dreadful roarings. He 
 himfelf gives the- fignal for defence ; as if he 
 ihe^ved greater confidence in his ftrength, or 
 made his attack in a nobler m.anner. The 
 other, on the contrary, unites treachery to 
 ferocity ; he approaches always without noife, 
 glides along with great dexterity, feizes every 
 advantage, and, fpringing upon his prey, 
 carries it oif before any one fufpefts that he 
 is near. 
 
 I had afterwards frequent opportunities of 
 feeing feveral of thefe animals ; as well as of 
 another fpecies, called by the Dutch luypar^ 
 or leopard of the French ; and a third fpecies, 
 ftill fmaller, called the cat tyger^ and by 
 BufFon the ojjelot. I fhall fpeak of thefe 
 hereafter. 
 
 When 
 
64 TRAVELS IN 
 
 "When I had finiflied my obfervations on my 
 panther, and had drawn a figure of him, we 
 began to take off his Ikin ; and my timid com- 
 panions approached gradually, when they faw 
 us quietly at work. The reader may eafily 
 imagine how much they were afhamed, and 
 what m.arks of confufion were difplayed in 
 their countenances. Ought they not to have 
 blufhed before a ftranger, who, engaged for 
 the firft time wath a ferocious animal, had re^ 
 mained firm, and fhewn more courage than 
 they, though they had all been born and 
 educated, as one may fay, amidft the monfters 
 of Africa ? ^ 
 
 When I had flayed the animal, my Hot- 
 tentot wrapped himfelf up in the fkin ; and, 
 after fainting my bold fellow-hunters, we re- 
 turned to our lodgings. 
 
 We marched in triumph, efcorted by fe- 
 veral dogs, whofe mafters had firft difap- 
 peared ; but they would not approach near 
 us. The tiger's fkin ftruck them with great 
 awe ; and when my Hottentot, to terrify them 
 more, turned round, making a kind of mo- 
 tion towards them, they retreated with as 
 much precipitation as if the tiger had been 
 
 at 
 
AFRICA. 6s 
 
 at their heels ; which afforded us no fmall 
 divedion. 
 
 The particulars of this expedition were foon 
 fpread abroad. Every where throughout tha 
 country I was faid to be a man of courage ; 
 and thofe even who had fo noi^Iy fupported me 
 began to be of the fame opinion. I was re- 
 quefled alfo by a planter, whom 1 did not 
 know, and who lived at the diftance of four 
 leagues, to affift his fon to deftroy a panther, 
 which had committed feveral depredations in 
 the neighbourhood. 
 
 As I had experienced fo much danger in 
 my firft attempt, I was not very fond of en- 
 gaging in a fecond. I therefore begged leave 
 to be exGufed ; being refolved never more to 
 expofe myfelf to the hazard of becoming a 
 vidlim to fuch bafe defertion. " Co," faid I 
 to the melfenger, " tell your mafter that I 
 " did not come to this country in order to ex- 
 " terminate the race of the tigers. I fhould 
 " be very ill repaid for my fervices, fince none 
 " but poltroons would derive benefit from 
 " them. If chance expofe me to fuch ren- 
 counters, I can combat alone ; I want none 
 of your aififtance, and I will lend mine to 
 nobody." Succefs had thus inflated my 
 Vol. I. F pridcj 
 
66 TRAVELS IN 
 
 pride, and I Imagined myielf at leaft a fe- 
 cond Thefeus. 
 
 I had, however, very improperly con-, 
 founded people whom I did, not know, with 
 thofe who had given me {o much caufe to 
 complain of their condud. This invitation 
 had come from a perfon named Louis Karfte, 
 with whom I had afterwards an opportunity 
 of being acquainted ; and I repented that I 
 had entertained fo much prejudice againft his 
 children. They convinced me that they were 
 incapable of behaving badly in the moment 
 of danger ; and I have been a witnefs to the 
 effe£l:s of their courage. 
 
 The time to which I had limited myfelf, 
 when I left Mr. Boers, was now nearly 
 clapfed ; the feafon proper for undertaking 
 my journey into the interior parts of the coun- 
 try was rapidly approaching ; and I had great 
 preparations to make. I therefore took leave 
 of my good friend Slaber, and of ail his fa-- 
 mily, whom I quitted with regret. Being 
 freed from every care, embarraflment, and in- 
 quietude, I caft my eyes towards Saldanha 
 Bay for the laft time, and fet out on my re- 
 turn to the Cape. 
 
 RETURN 
 
AFRICA* 67 
 
 Return from saldanha bay to the 
 
 CAPE. 
 
 .. Boers was waiting for me ; and as 
 foon as I arrived, I took up my lodging in 
 his houfe, where I found every thing that 
 could flatter my wifhes, and that friendly 
 attention which the infolent pride of the rich 
 fells at fo dear a rate in other countries. He 
 anticipated me with refped: to the preparations 
 necefTary for my journey ; and begged that 
 I would begin to think of them. Upon this 
 occafion I formed a more intimate connedlion 
 with Mr. Gordon, the commander of the 
 troops, who thought my intended enterprlze 
 rather too hazardous ; efpecially at a time 
 when the Gaffres were at war with the Dutch 
 planters, and confequently with the Hotten- 
 tots : and though he approved of my plan^ he 
 did not conceal the dangers to vdiich I ihould 
 be expofed in the execution of it. What he 
 related concerning the rifts which he had 
 run in attempting a like project, ferved only 
 to redouble my ardour: and I believed myfelf 
 to be proof againfl all thofe misfortunes, 
 which he took a pleafure in exhibting to my 
 
 F 2 " view 5 
 
68 TRAVELS IN 
 
 view ; and which, I muft own, were far from 
 being encouraging. 
 
 Whilft my people were employed in pre- 
 paring my baggage, I examined, with parti- 
 cular attention, the city and its environs. 
 
 I feveral times vifited the Table and Lion 
 Mountains. Though the former, feen from 
 the bay, feems to reach to the city, I found, 
 however, that it was . more than a league dif- 
 tant from it. 
 
 The bottom of this mountain is covered 
 with a great number of fragments of rock ; 
 which feem to have once formed a part of it, 
 and to have been afterwards detached : the 
 bafe confifts of pure granite, and to the very 
 top it appears to be alternately compofed of 
 horizontal ftrata of granite and of earth. Ac- 
 cording to the meafurement given by M. de 
 la Caille, it rifes three thoufand fix hundred 
 feet above the level of the fea. A perfon can- 
 not afcend it but by the deep fiflure, through 
 which thofe dreams flow that fupply the foun- 
 tains of the town with water ; and even this 
 route is very difficult, efpecially towards the 
 top, where the fifliire becomes much nar- 
 rower, and rifes almoft perpendicularly. It 
 is neceflary to clamber above two hours, before 
 
 one 
 
AFRICA. 69 
 
 one can reach the fummit ; where there Is a 
 very extenfive plain, full of enormous rocks, 
 heaped together in confufion, and interfperfed 
 with different kinds of fhrubs. They refera- 
 ble the ruins of an immenfe city. Time and 
 confpiring elements feem to have deftroyed 
 their projedling parts, which gives them a very 
 circular appearance. I have feen fome pieces 
 of quartz as round as thofe pebbles that are 
 often found on the fand near the banks of 
 rivers. 
 
 About the middle of the plain there Is a 
 muddy lake, from which thofe ftreams that 
 reach the Cape flow through the fiffure already 
 mentioned. It is about three or four hundred 
 paces in circumference : near it I killed a 
 great many fnipes. I could not difcover whe-^ 
 ther this water v/as produced by a fpring, or 
 by the rains and the fogs ; but I found that 
 the mountain was interfedted by a number of 
 fiffures, which, like fo many aqueducts, in 
 different places diftribute the water from this 
 bafon, and fertilize the plantations fcattered 
 here and there at fome diftance near its 
 bottom. 
 
 The Table Mountain is frequented by vul- 
 tures of that fpecies called ferchnopteros \ but 
 
 F 3 the 
 
70 TRAVELS IN 
 
 the fouth-eaft wind often obliges them to quit 
 the mountain : and it blows fometimes with 
 filch fury, that it throws them down into the 
 itreets at the Cape, where they are killed with 
 flicks. Apes of the baboon kind, which the 
 Dutch call bansjtans^ are alfo found here. Every 
 one knows that they are great thieves. They 
 difperfe themfelves over the different planta« 
 tions, and climb the garden walls, in order to 
 fteal fruit ; but not with that preparation and 
 fine order which Kolben has made the fubjeO; 
 of a childilh and ridiculous tale. When the 
 iky is pure and ferene, the Piquet Mountains^ 
 which are thirty leagues diftant, may be feen 
 from the top of the Table Mountain : not- 
 withftanding this diftance, they feem to fur- 
 pafs the latter in height. 
 
 When people who for the firfl time vlfit this 
 mountain, are engaged in the hollow filTure 
 pf which I have fpoken, they think them- 
 felves attacked by a fliower of rain : though, 
 the weather be fine, it really rains to them, 
 This proceeds from the particles of water, 
 ^'hich, dropping continually from the rocks 
 above, and failing upon thofe below, are 
 broken by their fall, and converted into a 
 kind of rain, which becomes the finer the 
 i more 
 
AFRICA. 
 
 7i 
 
 more one approaches the bottom of the 
 mountain. This rain is always more abun- 
 dant in the morning than at any other time 
 of the day. The caufe of this may be eafily 
 explained by the coolnefs and dews of th»j 
 night. 
 
 In this hollow, at the diftance of about 
 one-third of its height from the top, there is 
 a beautiful cafcade, where the water falls over 
 a very broad rock. The inhabitants of the 
 town fometimes walk as far as this fall ; and, 
 though the way is extremely rugged, even 
 the ladies indulge themfelves with a fight of 
 this charming and pidlurefque fcene, from a 
 delightful point of view which begins in this 
 fpot. 
 
 It is very remarkable, that, in the warmeft 
 countries, the flaves kindle fires, in every 
 place where they are at work, which ferve to 
 light their pipes, and to warm or cook their 
 viduals. Thofe of the Cape, who are fent to 
 cut wood for the ufe of their mafters' families, 
 go in fearch of it fometimes to the back of the 
 Table Mountain. In the evening, when they 
 quit their labour, if they negled to extinguifh 
 thefe fires, they infenfibly communicate them- 
 felves to the dry grafs and roots in the neigh- 
 
 F 4 hour- 
 
72 TRAVELSIN 
 
 bourhood. The flames then fpread rapidly 
 on every fide, and foon reach deep valleys, 
 where all the wood, both dry and green, 
 without diftindtion, blazes forth with amaz- 
 ing fury ; having the appearance of fo many 
 fmall volcanos, connecled together by ftrings 
 of fire. The flames rife in clouds of different 
 fhades, according as the caverns have a greater 
 or lefs depth; night comes on; and the city, 
 the road, and the whole neighbourhood, enjoy 
 a fped:acle fo much the more magnificent, as 
 the caufe of it is known ; and people are en- 
 tirely free from that great terror which fuch a 
 phenomenon would otherwife occafion : for 
 the height and extent of this conflagration 
 give to the mountain a more awful appear- 
 ance than the lava does to Vefuvius, when it 
 burflis forth with the greatefl fury. I never 
 faw this majeftic illumination but once ; and 
 I can fay that it afforded me the utmoft plea- 
 fure. All the inventions that might be made 
 to dired: fhips at the diftance of twenty leagues 
 at fea, would never approach this Pharos, kin- 
 , died accidentally by fome fmall bufhes, which 
 a thoughtlefs negro has fuffered to catch fire. 
 
 It is impolTible to reach the Devil's Moun- 
 tain by the Table Mountain, though it is a 
 
 pan 
 
AFRICA. 73 
 
 part which has been feparated from it at the 
 iummit, either by fragments fucceffively falU 
 ing, or by earthquakes ; but one may eafily 
 arrive at the Lion Mountain, which, like the 
 other, is alfo a part of the Table. It is how- 
 ever impracticable to get to its fummit without 
 a rope, by which one may clamber up, though 
 wath confiderable difEculty. From this emi- 
 nence fignals are made to fhips at fea. There 
 is always ftationed here a perfon in the Com- 
 pany's fervice, whofe bufmefs is to fire a 
 cannon for every veffel that he fees ; and, hy 
 a fignal agreed on, the town knows in an in- 
 ftant whether the fhip comes from India or 
 Europe : but the fame man, after he has dit. 
 tinguifhed the vefTel's flag, is obliged to re- 
 pair to the town, and give information of it 
 to government. This employment is both 
 laborious and cruel ; for it often happens 
 that the poor wretch muft defcend and go 
 up in this manner four or five times a day^ 
 which opprefles him with fatigue : like many 
 other things, it may be conftdered as a fault 
 in the adminiftration, againft which every 
 body's eyes are fhut. The perfon whom I 
 iaw told me very coolly, that little notice was 
 taken of this bufmefs i and I could eafily be- 
 lieve 
 
74 TRAVELSIN 
 
 iieve It; for he was in a moft deplorable fitu- 
 ation. Though only thirty-five years of age, 
 his knees and legs v/ere become fo ftiff that 
 he could not walk but with great pain. 
 
 I paid a vifit alfo to the famous eftate of 
 Conftantia, behind the Table Hill. This 
 "tineyard does not perhaps produce the tenth 
 part of the wine which is fold under its 
 name. At that time it belonged to Mr. 
 Cloete. Some fay that the firft plants were 
 brought hither from Burgundy, others from 
 Madeira, and fome from Perfia. However 
 this may be, it is certain that this wine is 
 delicious when drank at the Cape ; that it 
 lofes much by being tranfported ; and that 
 after five years it is w^orth nothing. On my 
 ^arrival a deini-haam^ that is to fay, about 
 twenty bottles, v^as fold from thirty-five to 
 forty piailres ; when I departed it was worth 
 ijiore than an hundred. 
 
 Clofe to Conftantia is another vineyard, 
 called the LeJJer ConJlantia\ but it is only 
 within thefe feven years that it has begun to 
 be held in the fame efteem as the former. It 
 has even fometimes happened that the produce 
 of it has been fold for a larger fum than that 
 of the other, at the Company's, fales. As it 
 
 is 
 
AFRICA. 75 
 
 is leparated from the other only by a plain 
 hedge, it is probable that there was formerly 
 no difference hetween the wines but in the 
 manner of preparing them. 
 
 Ail the fpace contained between the Bay 
 of Falfo and the Table Bay, abounds with 
 country feats and beautiful plantations, the 
 owners of which confine themfelves to the 
 cultivation of pulfe, fruits, and, above all, of 
 vines. The moft efleemed, and thofe which 
 approach neareft to the wines of Conftantia, 
 are thofe of Becker and Hendrick, The 
 wine-merchants at the Cape can prepare 
 them in fuch a manner as to fell them for 
 real Conftantia wine. Befides thefe fweet 
 wines, other fettlements, fuch as the Pearly 
 Stellembofch^ and Dragejiein^ produce fome 
 kinds of fack, which are highly valued. A 
 wine is alfo made here that approaches near 
 to Rota, to which the farne name is given, 
 and which I have found in every refpedt as 
 good. Thofe who go to the Cape to pur- 
 chafe any of it, muft apply to the planters, 
 themfelves, in order to be well ferved ; for 
 the merchants are cheats, who, knowing 
 that there is no guard, fmoke the calks with 
 jTiilphur, and fill them up with fpirits, to 
 
 make 
 
76 TRAVELS IN 
 
 make them keep as long as poffible, in cafe 
 they cannot get rid of them. 
 
 The ordinary wine of the country feldom 
 makes its appearance at the tables of genteel 
 people ; red wines, from Bourdeaux, are 
 tliofe generally drank ; and thofe import- 
 ed in the Dutch veffels are always prefer- 
 red to the French wines, brought only in 
 ill-conditioned cafks, in which they never 
 keep. 
 
 The average price of this wine is a florin 
 the bottle : it however varies according to 
 circumftances ; I have feen it at three florins, 
 and fometimes at twelve fous. 
 
 The beer brewed at the Cape is not much 
 efleemed; but that of Europe is highly valued, 
 and a great quantity of it is Confumed. The 
 price of it varies between twelve and twenty- 
 four fous the bottle. In general, there is a 
 great fale for liquors of every kind. 
 
 Thofe who enter a houfe are always pre- 
 fented with a fopi^ that is to fay, a glafs of 
 rack or gin, or rather of French brandy : gin, 
 however, is the liquor moft ufed in the morn- 
 ing. Before they fit down to table, etiquette 
 requires alfo that they fhould be offered a jQpt\ 
 or a little v^hite wine, in which wormwood 
 
 or 
 
A F R I C A« 77 
 
 or aloes have been infufed, in order to excite 
 an appetite. 
 
 At table, people drink beer or wine indif- 
 criminately. When the defert is finiihed, 
 the ladies rife up, and retire to a neighbour- 
 ing apartment, or to the landing place of the 
 flairs. Pipes, tobacco, and more wine, are 
 then brought for the gentlemen ; whilft the 
 ladies are regaled with coffee, Rheniih or 
 Mofelle wine fweetened with fugar, and other 
 cordials. After this they form parties at play ; 
 and, when a lucky or interefting ftroke takes 
 place, it is always the fignal, or a pretence, 
 for a bumper extraordinary. 
 
 This manner of living is common in mofl: 
 families ; with this difference, that thofe who 
 are not rich ufe^only wines of the country. 
 The vanity of the inhabitants in this refpedt 
 is however very ridiculous. One day, while 
 paffmg along the ftreet with Mr. Boers, he 
 made me take notice of a man who was fit- 
 ting on the ftair before his houfe ; and who, 
 perceiving us near enough to be under- 
 ftood, called out to his flave, with as loud 
 a voice as he could, to bring him fome red 
 wine. The fifcal affured me that this man 
 had not a fingle drop of it in his poffeffzon, 
 
 and 
 
78 TRAVELS IH 
 
 and that he had not perhaps drank of it teit 
 times in his life. On this account, when 
 we had advanced a little farther, I turned 
 round, and obferved that his fervatnt was 
 pouring out beer to him. 
 
 The Hout Bay^ or Wood Bay, takes its 
 name from the brufh wood which is found 
 there : it produces no large trees, but only 
 Ihrubs and buihes. This bay, which is fmall, 
 and expofed to the weft winds, is furrounded 
 with rocks. Veffels feldom feek fhelter in it, 
 except they are fuddenly overtaken by foul 
 weather, and cannot poffibly reach any other 
 place. It lies two leagues to the fouth-weft 
 of the Cape. 
 
 The Bay of Falfo, fituated fouth-eaft of 
 the Cape, is diftant from it^ three leagues ; 
 but one muft pafs over a fpace equal to 
 four, in order to arrive at the anchoring 
 ground : the way to it is almoft impaflable* 
 This fpacious bay is capable of affording an 
 afylum to a confiderable number of vefTels : 
 it is here that thofe feek fhelter which hap- 
 pen to be in Table Bay when the weft wind 
 begins to blow ; and, for a contrary reafon, 
 when the fouth-eaft begins, thefe veffels re- 
 turn to their former ftation. 
 
 The 
 
AFRICA. 79 
 
 The commander at the Bay of Falfo has 
 the rank of an u?ider merchant : his falary is 
 moderate ; but his place brings him a great 
 deal, by the trade which he carries on witu 
 foreign veffels. When he purchafes their 
 goods, he fends them to the town to be 
 refold ; and he fometimes finds means to 
 difpofe of them at five times their original 
 value. 
 
 Clofe to the fhore of the bay there are a 
 great number of warehoufes, in v;hich pro- 
 vifions are depofited for the ufe of the Eafl- 
 India Company's iliips. A very beautiful 
 hofpital has been likev/ife ered:ed here for 
 the crews, and a commodious houfe for the 
 governor, who generally comes hither and 
 fpends a few days while the ihips are lying 
 in the bay. Commerce draws hither alfo a 
 great number of individuals from the Cape, 
 who furnifh the officers with lodgings. Whilft 
 the latter are here, the bay is extremely 
 lively ; but as foon as the feafon permits 
 them to heave up their anchors, it becomes 
 a defart ; every one decamps ; and its only 
 inhabitants are a company of the garrifon^ 
 who are relieved every two months. The 
 veiTels which arrive then, and have need of 
 
 pjoyifionSj 
 
to TRAVELS IN 
 
 provinons, are iri a difmal fituation ; for It 
 often happens that the warehoufes have been 
 fo much drained, that it is found neceffary to 
 bring from the town in carts whatever thefe 
 new comers are in want of : and the carriage 
 of them generally cofts an exorbitant price. 
 The hire of a paltry cart is from twenty to 
 thirty dollars a day ; I have even known 
 fifty paid for one : and it is to be obferved, 
 that they can make only one journey in the 
 twenty-four hours. 
 
 The fineft fifh are caught here, and parti- 
 cularly the roonian^ that gives its name to a 
 rock in the neighbourhood of which it is 
 found in great abundance. Oyfters alfo are 
 fifhed up here, but they are exceedingly 
 fcarce. ' 
 
 I muft not omit to mention, that In the 
 fields between the Bay of Falfo and the Cape 
 Town, but efpecially In the environs of Con- 
 ftantia and of Niuwe-land^ is found that charm- 
 ing tree, called^/w^r blaaderen^. It appears 
 that, when Dr. Sparmann was at the Cape, this 
 tree was not fo abundant as at prefent ; for the 
 planters having remarked that it grew up very 
 
 * The froUa argentea of the botanifts. 
 
 fall, 
 
AFRICA. 8i 
 
 JFaft, formed confiderable plantations of It, which 
 have become of great ufe to them for fewel. 
 I obferved that this tree was not to be met with 
 in any other place of the colony, not even in 
 the Nimiqua land, from which Mr. Sparmann 
 very falfely fuppofes that it was brought. I 
 can affirm that it does not grow there ; and I 
 never obferved it in any of the other cantons 
 into which I penetrated. For this reafon I 
 am of opinion that it was carried from fome 
 other part of Africa, or of the world ; though 
 M. Sonnerat, in his laft voyage to the Indies, 
 alTures us that it is the only tree originally 
 found at the Cape. It appears that this natu- 
 ralift never faw the jnifmfa nilotka^ which is 
 very common there, as well as a number of 
 other fpecies much more valuable* 
 
 The plantations of Stellembofch^ DrageJleiTZj 
 Franfche-Hoeck^ the Pearly and Hottentot Hol- 
 land, are different cantons, fituated between 
 the Cape and that great chain of mountains 
 perceived on the eaft. They fupply all the 
 reft with fruits and wine. 
 
 Stellembofch is a fmall village to which fe- 
 deral of the inhabitants of the Cape have re- 
 tired, and where they cultivate their land 
 themfelves. It has a church, a minifter, and 
 
 Vol. I. G 2, land* 
 
82 TRAVELS IN 
 
 a land-rof}^ or bailiff, who has the rank of 
 an under merchant. He is a kind of fifcal, 
 who judges in the firli indance ; but he cannot 
 impofe any fine above the fum of fifty rix- 
 dollars : when the affair is greater, it mufl be 
 brought before the proper fifcaL 
 
 The Franfche-Hoeck, or French Corner, is 
 fituated in an opening of the mountains be- 
 tVveen Stellembofch and Drageftein. It re- 
 ceived its name from fome refugees who went 
 thither to cultivate the ground, about the end 
 of the laft century. The foil of it is good, 
 and It produces plent}'' of corn and wine. — 
 The beft bread of all the colonies is eat here ; 
 but this is. not owing to the corn being better 
 than in any other place; it isbecaufe the French 
 method introduced by the emigrants has been 
 lince preferyed without alteration from father 
 to fon. This is all that remains of the remem- 
 brance of their ancient and cruel country. In 
 this canton I found only oneoldmanwhofpoke 
 French: fome families, however, flill retain 
 their primitive names, and write them as 
 they vfere written formerly. I have known 
 here Malherhes^ Dutoits^ Retifs^ Cochers^ and 
 feveral others, whofe names are familiar in 
 France. Beiides thiSj they may be diftin- 
 
 guiihed 
 
AFRICA. 83 
 
 guilhed from the other planters, who are al- 
 moft all fair, by their brown hair, and the 
 dark colour of their fkin. 
 
 Hottentot Holland is thus named, becaufe 
 this canton, originally inhabited by the Hot- 
 tentots, was firft cultivated by the Dutch. It 
 produces pulfe, fruit, and corn. Stellembofch 
 bounds it on the north, a chain of mountains 
 on the eaft, the bay of Falfo on the weft, and 
 on the fouth mountains in which there are ftill 
 fome inhabitants. 
 
 The firft chain of mountains and hills ob- 
 ferved from Table Bay, is named the Tyger 
 Mountains. They are here and there inter- 
 fperfed with farms, which are excellent for 
 producing corn. All thefe hills, when fown, 
 prefent a noble view to the town in the time 
 of harveft ; and, on account of their fertility, 
 they have been called the granary of the colo- 
 ny. The back part of thefe hills is alfo 
 covered with corn farms; and this fpecies of 
 cultivation extends to a great diftance. The 
 plantations near the Cape are generally very 
 valuable, on account of the facility with which 
 pulfe, fruits, eggs, milk, and all other provi- 
 fions abfolutely neceflary, can be tranfported 
 thither, as there is always a fure and ready fale 
 
 G 2 for 
 
84 TRAVELS IN 
 
 for them — an advantage which the other inha-* 
 bitants do not enjoy, on account of their dif- 
 tance. 
 
 For twelve miles round the Cape, the plant- 
 ers no longer employ Hottentots, as they 
 choofe rather to purchafe negroes, who are 
 not fo lazy, and on whole fervices they can 
 more depend. The Hottentots, naturally care- 
 lefs and inconftant, often run away when they 
 expert fever e labour, and leave their mailers 
 in great embarrallmeut. The negroes defert 
 alfo, with the vain hopes of procuring their 
 liberty ; but they are foon taken. On fuch oc- 
 cafions they are put into the hands of the bai- 
 liff of the canton ; the proprietor claims them, 
 and, on paying a fmall fee, they are reftored, 
 after receiving a flight corredion ; for there 
 is no country in the world where flaves are 
 treated with fo much humanity as at the Cape* 
 
 The negroes of Mofambique, and thofe of 
 Madagafcar, are confidered as the bed labourers 
 and the moft affedtionate to their mafters* 
 When they land at the Cape, they generally 
 coft from an hundred and twenty to an hun- 
 dred and fifty dollars each. The Indians are 
 more particularly fought after, for ferving in 
 the houfe and in the town, Malays are alfo 
 
 feen 
 
AFRICA. 85 
 
 feen here, who are the moft Intelligent, and 
 at the fame time, the moft dangerous of flaves. 
 To aifaflinate their mafter or miftrefs, is in 
 their eyes but an ordinary attempt ; and, in 
 the five years which I refided in Africa, I 
 have feen this crime often repeated. They 
 march to the fcafFold with the utmoft calm- 
 nefs and i indifference. I heard one of thefe 
 wretches tell Mr. Boers, that he was happy in 
 having committed his crime ; that he was 
 well aware to what kind of death he would 
 be condemned 5 but that he ardently wifhed to 
 fee his life brought to a conclufion by it, as he 
 would then foon return to his own country^ 
 I am aftonifhed that fo violent a prejudice 
 does not caufe ftill greater difafters. 
 
 The Creole flaves at the Cape are the moft 
 efteemed : they are always fold at double what 
 is given for the reft ; and when they are ac- 
 quainted with a trade, their price becomes 
 exorbitant. A cook, for example, cofts from 
 eight to twelve hundred rix-dollars, and others 
 in proportion to their talents. They are all 
 properly clothed ; but they go barefooted, as a 
 mark of flavery. That infolent fet of do- 
 meftics zd^XtA footmen^ are not to be ittn at 
 the Cape \ for pride and luxury have not yet 
 
 G 3 intrQ-i 
 
U TRAVELS IN 
 
 introduced thofe idle and contemptible attend- 
 ants, who In Europe line the anti-chambers 
 of the rich, and who in their deportment ex- 
 hibit every mark of impertinence. 
 
 On arriving at the Cape, one is aftonifhed 
 to fee a multitude of flaves as white as Eu- 
 ropeans ; but this aftonifhment ceafes when it 
 is known that the young negrefles, if they are 
 in the leaft handfome, have each a foldier of 
 the garrifon, with whom they may go and 
 fpend every Sunday in whatever manner they 
 choofe. Self-intereft makes the mailers wink 
 at the irregularity of their flaves, becaufe they 
 expeS to reap confiderable profit from this 
 licentious cohabitation. 
 
 There are fome negrefles, however, who 
 are lawfully married, and negroes eftabliflied 
 in bufinefs, who form one body with the citi- 
 zens. Thefe are men, who, on account of 
 their fervices, or from fome other motives, 
 have been made free. The facility with which 
 they obtained their liberty formerly, gave, rife 
 to a multitude of abufes ; becaufe thefe people, 
 when they grew old and infirm, or when they 
 found themfelves deftitute of refources, and 
 unable to procure a fubfifl:ance, became vaga- 
 bonds and public robbers. 
 
 The 
 
AFRICA. 87 
 
 The criminals whom the government of 
 Batavia often fends to the Cape, in order to get 
 rid of them, prefer ve among thefe flaves a 
 certain diforder, which will always afllid: them. 
 Thofe people, called Bouginees^ are Malays, all 
 iifhermen and harbourers of thieves : with re- 
 fpefl; to the latter article, their reputation is 
 io well eflablifhed, that fearch is always made 
 firft among them, w^hen a flave has difappear-^. 
 ed, or when effed:s have been ftolen. 
 
 A mafter here feldom puniihes his flaves 
 himfelf ; he generally commits them into the 
 hands of the iifcal, w^ho orders fuch correc- 
 tion as they have m.erited to be beftov/ed on 
 them. If a mafter, however, who choofes to 
 puniih his flave, treats him WiXh cruelty, the 
 latter may lodge a complaint ; and if he can af- 
 terwards bring certain proof of his being again 
 ufed in the fame manner, the fifcal obliges 
 the proprietor to fell him. Should he feverely 
 wound or kill him he w^ould be fubjefled to 
 corporal punifliment, or be baniflied to the 
 ifle of Robcfu Thefe wife laws certainly do 
 great honour to the Dutch government ; but 
 how many means are thereto elude them ? 
 
 The ifle of Robe7i is fituated at the diftance 
 of two leagues in the fea, oppofite to Table 
 
 G 4 Bay, 
 
88 TRAVELS IN 
 
 Bay, and In fight of the city. This ifland^ 
 •which takes its nanie from the great number 
 of fea-dogs found near it, is entirely flat, and 
 of very fmall extent. It is the Bicetre of the 
 Cape. It is under the care of a corporal, who 
 has the title of commander ; and the unfortu- 
 nate wretches who are confined in it mufl 
 every day deliver a certain quantity of lime- 
 ftone, which they dig from quarries. The reft 
 ' of their time is employed in fifhing, or in cul- 
 tivating fmall gardens, for which they receive 
 tobacco and fome other indulgences. One 
 cannot fee without aftonifhment in what a 
 vigorous manner greens of every kind grow 
 here : cauliflowers above all attain to a mon- 
 flrous fize ; and, though reared amidft fand, 
 their delicacy ftill furpaflTes their bulk. Small 
 violet figs, of an exquifite flavor, grow here 
 alfo. The wells of this fpot fupply its inha- 
 bitants w^ith water equally good as that of the 
 Cape — a very extraordinary phenomenon in 
 an ifland fo fmall, and almoft on a level with 
 the fea. 
 
 I have feen here a great many black fer- 
 
 pents four feet in length, but they are not 
 
 venomous : abundance of partridges, and a 
 
 ftill greater number of quails, are likewife 
 
 5 found 
 
AFRICA. §9 
 
 foiind In this ifland. I have fometimes killed 
 from fifty to fixty of thefe bix'ds in a morning. 
 I muft not here omit to mention an obfer- 
 yation which concerns natural hiftory. The 
 quails of the ifle of Roben and thofe of the 
 Gape are abfolutely the fame fpecies^ without 
 any difference which might render my affer- 
 tion even doubtful ; yet the quails of the Cape 
 are birds of paflage. This fadt is well known : 
 and though the diftance from the ifle of Robeu 
 to the continent be only two leagues, it is alfa^ 
 certain that the quails there never emigrate* 
 They are always equally abundant and found 
 in every feafon. If I add likewife that the 
 quails of Europe are exadlly of the fame fpecies 
 as thefe, muft we not conclude that the former 
 do not pafs the fea, as has been hitherto pre- 
 tended ? Some travellers afl^ert as a truth, 
 that they have obferved them at fea : but this 
 does not decide the queftion; for, at the diftance 
 of more than fixty leagues from the coaft^ I 
 have ftiot ftarlings, chaffinges, linnets, and an 
 owl. All thefe birds, which, as is well known, 
 never pafs the fea, had been undoubtedly 
 driven from their courfe by fome violent ftorm 
 or hurricane ; and I fhall always believe that 
 the cafe was the fame with thofe quails which 
 
 have 
 
90 TRAVELS IN 
 
 have been met at fea, until this part of the 
 natural hiftory of birds be better elucidated. 
 
 I am fo much the more inclined to difbe- 
 lieve that quails crofs the fea, becaufe they may 
 go by land to Africa, and return by the fame 
 route. It is very probable that if thofe of the 
 ifle of Roben dare not venture to crofs that 
 fmail fpace of fea which feparates them from 
 the coaft, much lefs will they dare to hazard a 
 pafTage incomparably more confiderable. The 
 quail is a very heavy bird ; and the fmallnefs 
 of its wings, in proportion to the weight of its 
 body, is no wife fuited to a long and continued 
 flight. There is fcarcely a fportfman who does 
 not know by experience that, when he fprings 
 a quail three or four times fucceffively, it is im- 
 pofTible for it to fly any more ; and that, over- 
 come by fatigue, it fuffers itfelf to be taken by 
 the hand. The fame thing happens to all other 
 birds of this kind. 
 
 Befides the quail common to Europe and 
 Africa, there is found at the Cape a" bird much 
 fmaller, which is alfo called a quail, but very 
 impropely ; for it has only three toes on each 
 foot, and all direded forwards ; a markfufFicIent 
 to convince us that they ought not to be con- 
 founded. M. Sonnerat, in his Voyage to India^ 
 
 defcribes 
 
AFRICA. 91 
 
 defcribes a bird of the fame kind, which he 
 calls the three-toed quail, M. Desfontaines 
 mentions alfo, in his Voyage to the Coafts of 
 Barbary, a like fpecies approaching near to 
 that of the Cape, of which it is doubtlefs a va- 
 riety. I am acquainted with two others much 
 larger, one of the ifland of Ceylon, and the 
 other of Java : I iOiall give a defcription of 
 them ; and I think it will be neceffary to make 
 a new genus of them, to form the link of con- 
 nection between the quail and the French field 
 duck *, to which it has a great refemblance 
 in the conformation of its toes. Government 
 fends every year a detachment to the ifle of 
 Roben, to kill fea cows and penguins, from 
 which an oil is extrafted, particularly from 
 
 * In the original cane petiere. This bird, in Latin called 
 anas pratenfis Gallia^ according to Bomare, is peculiar to 
 France. It is about the fize of a pheafant 5 its head refcm- 
 bles that of a quail, and its bill that of a hen. It has only- 
 three toes on each foot, like the buftard. Its head, back, 
 and wings, are of a brownifh yellow, diverfified with black 
 and white ; its breaft, belly, and thighs are of a paler colour, 
 inclining to white ; and its legs and feet are of an afli colour. 
 It is accounted very delicious eating. See a defcription and 
 figure of it in Brijfon's Ornithology^ under the name of the 
 kjfer bujlard. See alfo Di£iionnatre Ralfonne et Univerfel 
 des Ajiimaux^ under the articles canard de pre de France^ 
 and cane petiere* T. 
 
 I the 
 
92 TRAVELS IN 
 
 the latter : they furnifh a great deal. At the 
 point of Roben there is a fmall creek, in which 
 a veflel might find ihelter, if the fouth-eaft 
 winds fhould prevent her from reaching the 
 roads at the Cape. 
 
 When I quitted Europe to travel into Afri- 
 ca, it was not a part of my plan to enter into 
 any detail refpedting the manners and cuftoms 
 of'the inhabitants of the Cape, much lefs re- 
 fped:ing the political, civil, and military forms 
 of its government. This is a fubjed:, I con- 
 fefs, which engaged the leaft fliare of my at- 
 tention, and which I fhould give an account 
 of with the greateft reludanee, even were I 
 interefted in doing it. I have my own reafons 
 for ailing with this referve, almoft in the fame 
 manner as the reader may have his for being 
 curious 5 and neither the reader nor I has any 
 occafion to know them. However, from Kol- 
 ben's reveries we may coIleQ: certain facts, 
 which a refidence of ten years at the Cape 
 Town gave him an opportunity of obferving. 
 In this point he has not impofed fo much on 
 the public as may be imagined. His book, 
 perhaps, contains truths which do not exift at 
 prefent, and which have been confidered as fa- 
 bles. But manners, charafl;ersj fafhions, laws^ 
 
 and 
 
AFRICA. 9 
 
 'J 
 
 and even empires, change in the courfe of time, 
 and exhibit variations almoft without number. 
 They are like the features of a countenance dif- 
 figured by old age, and which has no refem«r 
 blance to the portrait made from it when in 
 the bloom of youth. 
 
 The cafe is not the fame with what this fe- 
 dentary traveller has boldly advanced refped:ing 
 the Hottentots and their religious ceremonies. 
 If what he defcribes ever exifted, the fpirit of 
 philofophy, which imperioufly hovers over 
 Europe, muft have a little cooled the fccrching 
 air of the African regions ; for I obferved there 
 no trace of religion, nothing even that ap- 
 proached the idea of an avenging and reward- 
 ing fpirit. I lived long enough with them, 
 and among them, in the bofom of their peace- 
 ful defarts ; with thefe hardy people I have 
 undertaken journeys to very remote parts of 
 the country : but in no place did I perceive 
 any thing refembling religion, any trace of 
 what he tells us refpedting their legillation and 
 their funerals, or of what they practife at tlie 
 birth of their male children ; and nothing, in 
 ihort, of what he is pleafed to relate concern- 
 ing the ridiculous and diigufting ceremony of 
 
 their marriages. 
 
 The 
 
94 
 
 TRAVELS IN 
 
 The refidence of this man at the Cape is not 
 yet forgotten. It is well known that he never 
 quitted the town ; and yet he fpeaks with all 
 the affurance of an eye witnefs. It cannot how- 
 ever be doubted, that, after an abode of ten 
 years, having failed to accomplifh what he was 
 commiffioned to do, he found it much eafier 
 and more convenient to colled: all the tiplers 
 of the colony ; who, treating him with deri- 
 fion, whilft they were drinking his wine, dic- 
 tated memoirs to him from tavern to tavern ; 
 tried who could relate to him the moft abfurd 
 and ridiculous anecdotes; and amufed him with 
 information until they had drained his bottles. 
 In this manner are new difcoveries made, and 
 thus is the progrefs of the human mind en- 
 larged ! 
 
 JOURNEY TO THE EAST OF THE CAPE, 
 THROUGH THE COUNTRY OF NATAL AND 
 THAT OF CAFFRARIA. 
 
 The different preparations for my Jour- 
 ney being now completed, I ordered all the 
 fcattered provifions to be coUefted. They were 
 
 indeed 
 
AFRICA. 
 
 95 
 
 indeed pretty confiderable ; for in that firft 
 efFervefcence which tranfports the imagination 
 beyond the ordinary bounds, I neither knew 
 nor had fet myfelf any limits. Refolved, on 
 the contrary, to proceed as far and as long as I 
 poffibly could, I knew not whether I ihould ever 
 have it in my power to return ; but I vvifhed 
 above all to guard againft the difagreeable dif- 
 appointment of being obliged to flop, through 
 the want of things abfolutely requifite. Even 
 to articles, therefore, the utility of w^hich did 
 not feem to have a dired: objed:, I omitted 
 nothing that might be neceflary to my prefer- 
 vation in unforefeen circumftances ; and I was 
 always afraid that I fhould have occafion to 
 reproach myfelf with fome prejudicial negledt. 
 The three months which I paffed at the Cape 
 and in the neighbourhood, after my return 
 from Saldanha Bay, were fcarcely fufficient for 
 making all thefe preparations. 
 
 I had ordered two large four-w^heeled wag- 
 gons to be conftruded, which were covered 
 with double faii-cloth ; and five large boxes, 
 which exadly fitted the bottom of one of thefe 
 carriages, and which could be opened without 
 being difplaced : over thefe was a large mat- 
 trefs, upon which I propofed to fleep during , 
 
 my 
 
96 TRAVELS IN 
 
 my journey, in cafe want of time or any othet 
 circumftance fhould prevent me from eredting 
 tents. This mattrefs rolled back upon the laft 
 box, and it was there that I generally placed 
 a cabinet or cheft of drawers deftined to receive 
 infeils, butterflies, and fuch tender objects as 
 required great care and attention. 
 
 I had fo perfedlly fucceeded in the conftruc-*' 
 tion of this box ; my colleftions were pre^ 
 ferved there fo well, and they arrived in fuch 
 good condition, that, for the benefit of natu- 
 ralifts who ftudy this branch, and Xvho may be 
 incited to undertake a like journey, I fhall, 
 with great pleafure, defcribe its form. It was 
 about two feet and a half high, eighteen inches 
 in depth, and as much in bi'eadth. It was di- 
 vided lengthwife into compartments, each con- 
 taining a drawer, which rofe only three inches 
 from the bottom. Thefe drawers placed thus 
 vertically drew upwards, and were open below, 
 fo that, if violent jolts (arid of thefe we had a 
 good many) happened to detach any of the' 
 infeds from their frames, they fell to the bot- 
 tom of the box into the empty fpace of three 
 incheSj which I had referved, and could in no= 
 wife hurt thofe that remained firm : a coat of 
 virgin w^ax, two or three lines in thicknefs, 
 
 melted 
 
AFRICA. 97 
 
 ilieited with linfeed oil, and applied to the 
 bottom of the box, flopped its pores, and by 
 its fmell kept at a diftance all deftrudive ver- 
 min. 
 
 This firft waggon, which carried almoft my 
 whole arfenal, we called the mafler waggon. 
 The compartments of one of the five boxes 
 already mentioned were filled with large fquare 
 bottles, each containing five or fix pounds of 
 gunpowder. This was placed there only for 
 immediate ufe, and to fupply the vv^ants of the 
 moment. My general magazine was compofed 
 of feveral fmall barrels ; and, to preferve them 
 from fire or moifture, I rolled them up in flieep's 
 fl^ins newly fiayed. This covering, when once 
 dry, was abfolutely impenetrable. Reckoning 
 every thing, I could depend upon four or five 
 hundred pounds of gunpowder, and two thou- 
 fand, at leaft, of lead and tin, either unwrought 
 or formed into fliot and bullets. Of fixteen 
 fufees I had twelve in one carriage : one of 
 thefe, intended for large animals, fuch as the 
 rhinoceros, the elephant, and the hippopo- 
 tamus, carried a ball that weighed a quarter of 
 a pound. Befides thefe I was provided with 
 feveral pairs of double-barrelled piftols, a large 
 cimeter, and a poniard. The fecond w^aggon 
 Vol. I. H exhibited 
 
98 TRAVELS IN 
 
 exhibited In caricature the moft curious appa- 
 ratus perhaps ever feen ; but it was no lefs Va- 
 luable to me on that account. It was my 
 kitchen. What deUcious and peaceable repafts 
 did I enjoy ! and how dear to my heart the 
 remembrance of my charming and domeflic life 
 ftill is ! Whenever I am prefent at thofe din- 
 ners of ceremony and conftraint, where lan- 
 guor generally prefides, the difguft which they 
 occafion conveys me fuddenly back to the 
 gentle noife of our baitings, and prefents to 
 my imagination the moft lively and variegated 
 pifture of my good Hottentots employed in 
 preparing a dinner for their friend. 
 
 My kitchen utenfils were far from being 
 confiderable. I had a gridiron, a frying pan, 
 two large kettles, a cauldron, a few china 
 plates and diihes, coffee-pots, tea-pots, cups, 
 bowls, and fome boilers. Thefe were almoft 
 all the articles which compofed my houfehold 
 furniture. 
 
 Befides thefe, for my own perfon, I had pro- 
 vided myfelf with linen of every kind, a large 
 ftock of white and candied fugar, coffee, tea, 
 and a few pounds of chocolate. 
 
 As I conceived it would be neceffary for me 
 
 to fupply the Hottentots who accompanied 
 
 c me 
 
AFRICA. 99 
 
 the with tobacco and ftrong liquors, I pro- 
 cured an ample abundance of the firft article, 
 and three cafks of the latter. I carried with 
 me alfo a large quantity of glafs Ware, toys, 
 and other curiofities^ to exchange with the na- 
 tives as occafion might require, or to gain their 
 friendihip. To all thefe things belonging to 
 my caravan, I muft ftill add a large and a fmall 
 tent, inftruments neceflary for repairing my 
 waggons, and for melting lead ; a jack for 
 railing burdens, a quantity of nails, iron in 
 bars and in fmall pieces ; pins, thread, needles, 
 diftilled liquors, &c. &c. Such was the cargo 
 of my two carriages, which might weigh each 
 nearly about two tons. I muft not here forget 
 to fpeak of my dreffing box, which afforded me 
 much amufement. Nothing could equal the 
 aftonilhment which it occafioned to the favages 
 in the remote parts of the country, I always 
 made ufe of it in their prefence ; and their con- 
 verfation on this fubjedl has more than once 
 prolonged my toilet, and procured me a very 
 agreeable recreation. 
 
 My train w^as compofed of thirty oxen ; 
 twenty for my two carriages, and ten more to 
 relieve them ; three hunters, nine dogs, and 
 five Hottentots : but I afterwards confiderably 
 
 H 2 augmented 
 
too TRAVELS IN 
 
 augmented the number of my animals and 
 attendants. That of the latter amounted fome- 
 times to forty. It increafed or diminiihed 
 according to the heat of my kitchen ; for in 
 the bofom of the African defarts, as in »more 
 refined countries, one meets with abundance 
 of agreeable parafites, whofe countenances are 
 feldom tinged with a blufh : thefe, however, 
 without being very burdenfome, were not en- 
 tirely ufelefs to me, and they did not difappear 
 when the cloth was removed. 
 
 My projeded journey being known through- 
 out all the Cape Town, when the time of my 
 departure approached, I was ftrongly folicited 
 by feveral people who wifhed to accompany 
 me. Every one ftrove who fliould firft offer 
 his fervices : but thefe gentlemen and I rea* 
 foned in a very different manner. They ima- 
 gined that their propofals would afford me 
 great joy; and they could never believe that I 
 intended to depart alone. Such an idea appear- 
 ed to them to be altogether ridiculous ; whilft 
 I, on the contrary, confidered it as the height 
 of wifdom and prudence. I had been inform- 
 ed that, of all the expeditions fet on foot by 
 government for making difcoveries in the in- 
 terior parts of Africa, not one had fucceeded* 
 
 I knew 
 
AFRICA. loi 
 
 I knew likewife that a dlverfity of humours 
 and charaders could never conduce to the fame 
 end ; in a word, that concord fo neceffary in a 
 hazardous and new enterprize could not be 
 preferved among men, where felf-love w^ould - 
 make them flatter themfelves with gaining an 
 equal fhare in the honour of its fuccefs. After 
 thefe reflections, I was unwilling to expofe 
 myfelf to the rifk of lofmg the expences of my 
 journey, and the fruits which I expe<fled to 
 derive from it. I wiihed to fet out alone, and to 
 be abfolute mafl:er of myfelf : I therefore kept 
 firm to my purpofe ; and rejedting all thefe 
 offers, cut fliort every propofal of the kind 
 that was made to me. When my equipage 
 was entirely ready, I took leave of my friends, 
 and on the i8th of December 178 i, at nine in 
 the morning, I departed, efcorting my convoy, 
 myfelf on horfeback. I did not intend to make 
 a long march. According to the plan which I 
 had laid down, I directed my courfe towards 
 Hottentot Holland ; and I fl:opped about even- 
 ing at the bottom of thofe mountains by which 
 it is bounded on the eaft fide of the Cape. 
 
 Being then entirely abandoned to myfelf, 
 and expelling no fupport or affiftance but 
 from my own arm, I returned, as I may fay, 
 
 H 3 to 
 
I02 TRAVELS IN 
 
 to the primitive ftate of man ; and breathed^ 
 for the firft time in my life, the delicious and 
 pure air of liberty. 
 
 I was now obliged to fubjedt my operations, 
 as well as my people, to fome order ; for every 
 thing depended on my commencement. With- 
 out being a deep philofopher, I was fum- 
 ciently acquainted with mankind to know 
 that thofe who wifh to be obeyed, muft pre- 
 fcribe laws ; and that, unlefs they are firm and 
 vigilant over their atStions, they can never 
 flatter themfelves with being able to rule thofe 
 who are under them. I had to fear, every 
 moment, that I fhould be abandoned by my 
 attendants, or that my weaknefs would lead 
 them into diforder. Without aflFedation, 
 therefore, I purfued a prudent courfe, which 
 I always followed afterwards ; and no circum- 
 ftance whatever made me relax, even for a 
 fmgle day, in my ufeful feverity. 
 
 We had fcarcely halted, when I gave or- 
 ders for the cattle to be unyoked in my pre- 
 fence ; and I fent my oxen to feed, under the 
 care of two of my people, in whom I had 
 obferved more punctuality and intelligence. 
 With the reft, I reviewed my carriages and 
 effedts, in order to fee that nothing was de- 
 
 rangedu 
 
AFRICA. 
 
 '03 
 
 ranged. I even examined the wheels and the 
 harnefs ; and I diftributed to each his employ- 
 ment ; and addrcfled them all, in a fhort 
 fpeech, refpeding the different occupations 
 which would be afterwards afligned to them. 
 This procedure immediately infpired them 
 with an idea that I was a careful and prudent 
 man, and that the leaft remiffnefs in their fer- 
 vice could not efcape me. After this cere- 
 mony, I mounted my horfe, and went to re- 
 connoitre the road on the mountain, which 
 we were to traverfe next day. On my return, 
 I found my oxen in excellent condition, and 
 a large fire burning, which I had ordered to 
 be kindled. Having made a flight fupper on 
 the provifions which we had brought from 
 the town, we retired to reft ; I in my car- 
 riage, and my Hottentots under the canopy of 
 heaven. 
 
 Next morning we yoked our oxen before 
 day, and prepared ourfelves for attempting 
 the mountain ; but we could not reach its 
 fummit without being in great danger of 
 breaking our carriages, and laming our oxen. 
 The road is cut out even, on the back part of 
 it ; but it is fo fteep, and fo rough with fplin- 
 ters of rock, that I am aftonilhed government 
 
 H 4 ihoul 
 
I04 
 
 TRAVELS IN 
 
 fliould have fo much negleded the only route , 
 by which the Inhabitants of thefe cantons can 
 go to the Cape^ On the top of the moun- 
 tain there is a noble and moft extenfive pro- 
 fpe6t, including all the plantations fcattered 
 throughout a vaft valley, enclofed by a chain 
 of other mountains, and the fea. 
 
 We were here obliged to unyoke our oxen, 
 to fuffer them to take breath, and to give them 
 fome hours repofe. Uneafy refpeding the 
 defcent, and defirous to know the fafeft me- 
 thod of gaining the plain country, 1 employed 
 this fhort interval in taking a furvey of the 
 neighbourhood. Having obferved that a gra- 
 dual and gentle declivity on the back of the 
 mountain would condud: us, without danger, 
 to that charming country, I was entirely freed 
 from my embarraflment ; and returning foon 
 after to my caravan, we refumed our march. 
 The road, indeed, was very convenient for 
 our carriages, and did not in the leaft im- 
 pede their motion ; we defcended, therefore^ 
 with a pleafure and tranquillity equal to the 
 pain and iaquietude which we had felt on the 
 other fide. As favage animals feldom make 
 their appearance in thefe cantons, having no- 
 thing to fear, and no precautions to take, we 
 
 continued 
 
AFRICA. 105 
 
 continued our march till ten at night, and ar- 
 rived at the river Fahnit^ thus named by the 
 Dutch, on account of the great quantity of 
 reeds which grow on its banks. 
 
 When we aw^oke next morning, we fought 
 for our oxen, but in vain ; they had all difap- 
 peared : not being yet accuftomed to lie down 
 by our carriages during the night, they had 
 difperfed themfelves on all fides. My people, 
 however, w^ent in queft of them ; but it was a 
 long time before they could get them colleded 
 together^, and we w^ere not in a condition to 
 depart before nine. About eleven, obferving 
 a plantation at the diftance of fifty paces from 
 me, I advanced towards it ; when the owner, 
 who doubtlefs had feen my caravan, came to 
 meet me. As foon as he perceived me, he 
 made himfelf known ; and I found that he 
 was the fame perfon who, at the Cape, had 
 fold me my majler waggon^ wuth the five pair 
 of oxen that drew it. On this occafion, I 
 could not help Hopping and accepting a din- 
 ner, which he offered me in the moft preffing 
 manner: I complied with his requeft efpe- 
 cially, when he confefled to me, that, having 
 learned at the Cape the day of my departure, 
 and the route I intended to purfue, he had 
 
 taken 
 
jo6 TRAVELS IN 
 
 taken the ftart of me with his people, and 
 made preparations to entertain me at his 
 houfe. I ordered my oxen to be unyoked 
 on the fpot where he had met me ; and going 
 along with him, was received very poUtely by 
 his wife and two pretty daughters, v/ho com- 
 pofed his whole family. Till the hour of 
 dinner, we employed our time in viewing his 
 eilate; and, during our repaft, he did not fail 
 to enlarge upon the excellence of the waggon 
 which I had purchafed from him. I was even 
 obliged to iiften to a long hiftory, in which he 
 recited all the good qualities of each of the 
 oxen that drew it. I muft, indeed, do him 
 the juftice to fay that he did not deceive me : 
 I have fmce found, and, I muft allow, much 
 to Mr. Smit's honour, that thefe oxen were 
 the beft I ever employed, and the moft to be 
 depended upon ; and that, in my extraordi- 
 nary courfcs, and the moft dangerous paffes, 
 his waggon, folidly conftruded, held out to 
 the very laft. 
 
 Notwithftanding the entreaties of this good 
 family, who invited me to fpend the night 
 with them, I departed as foon as we had 
 dined; and, after fome hours march, we 
 crofTed the river Bot^ and the whole canton 
 
 called 
 
AFRICA. icy 
 
 called Otiive^HGeck, I willied to make up 
 for the time I had loft at dinner ; and, on 
 that account, it was eleven at night when 
 we halted, near a fmall pond of brackiflx 
 water. 
 
 Scarcely had the fun appeared above the 
 horizon, when we proceeded on our journey; 
 and, in the morning, we flopped at the houfe 
 of Francis Bathenos, who fent me a loaf which 
 I requefted from him, and for which he re- 
 fufed payment. He fent to requeft that I 
 would alight ; but I refufed, not wiihing in 
 any manner to lofe my time in paying vifits* 
 In this country I every moment met with 
 prodigious flocks of that kind of antelopes 
 which the planters call reebock : it is as yet 
 very little known : Mr. Sparmann only makes 
 mention of it ; and the name of this animal, 
 in the French edition of his work, is badlj?- 
 tranflated ; for reebock does not fignify red 
 goaty but goat of the fca Jhore, — The noon- 
 tide heat became fo exceflive, that I was ob- 
 liged to flop ; and, whilft my people and cat- 
 tie were breathing a little, I made a fmall ex- 
 curfion, in which I killed one of thefe ree- 
 bocks : it was a male ; its colour, in general, 
 w^s a delicate grey, darker upon the back than 
 
 the 
 
loS TRAVELS IN 
 
 the fides, and its belly was white : it was not 
 abfolutely reddifh, nor were its horns more 
 than five or fix inches in length. Dodor 
 Sparmann, who fays he defcribes them only 
 from i^emory, muft have been deceived, when 
 he gives them a foot in length. The defcrip- 
 tion and figure of this antelope will be found 
 in my Account of the Quadrupedes of Africa^ 
 In returning to my people, we ftopped a little 
 time, to eat a few fteaks from the animal I 
 had killed; and, in the fpace of four leagues, 
 which we travelled, in order to find a conve-^ 
 nient fpot for encamping, we faw near us, on 
 all fides, flocks of antelopes, bontebocks^, 
 and bubalesf, together with fome zebras, 
 &c. &c. and feveral oftriches. The variety 
 and gait of thefe large flocks were very amuf- 
 ing, and worthy of engaging the attention of a 
 naturalifl:. My dogs purfued with great keen- 
 nefs all thefe different fpecies, which crofl'ed 
 each other as they fled, and fometimes found 
 themfelves all promifcuoufly colleded into 
 one body, according as the dogs attacked 
 them. This confufion, like the machinery of 
 
 * The antUope fcripta of Mr. Pallas, 
 t The antilope bubalis* 
 
 the 
 
AFRICA. 109 
 
 the ftage, fcarcely required a moment to be 
 remedied ; I recalled my dogs, and each indi- 
 vidual inftantly returned to its flock, v*^hich 
 kept at a certain diilance from the reft. This 
 fpedacle will be more eafily conceived, if one 
 thinks of the month of May in Holland: 
 nothing is then to be feen but innumerable 
 flocks of cattle, feparated from each other with 
 a kind of fymmetry, and which are never 
 confounded together. Thefe animals were fo 
 full of curiofity, and fo tame, that, had it not 
 been for my dogs, I might have killed a great 
 number of them from my carriage ; but the 
 approach of my dogs put them all to flight. 
 
 A curiofity equally familiar feems to cha- 
 radlerize all animals with horns, and particu- 
 larly antelopes ; there were none but zebras 
 and oftriches which kept at a great diftance. 
 
 Being only four or five leagues from fome 
 warm baths, much boafted of by the inhabi- 
 tants of the Cape, I was defirous of feeing 
 them ; though I was, at the fame time, afraid 
 that my journey would be retarded. To gain 
 on the one h^nd what I was about to lofe on 
 the other, I departed earlier than ufual ; and 
 at ten in the morning we found ourfelves 
 clofe to them. This fpring of warm mineral 
 2 water. 
 
no TRAVELS lU 
 
 water, diftant from the Cape about thirty 
 leagues, Is generally held in great eftimatlom 
 Government have caufed a very fpacious and 
 convenient building to be ereded here, for 
 the ufe of fuch invalids as may be defirous of 
 bathing : their lodging, indeed, cofts them 
 nothing ; but thefe invalids are obliged to fur- 
 nirh their own neceffarles, which Is not eafily 
 done In a country that ajffords very few re- 
 fources. In this place there are two feparate 
 baths, one for the blacks, and another for the 
 whites. Near this alfo is fituated that moun-^ 
 tain, called the Tower of Babel, the height of 
 which has been fo much exaggerated by Kol- 
 ben: it is far from approaching that of the 
 Table Mount. Around this place, the com- 
 pany, under the aufpices of a corporal, have 
 eflabllflied feveral repofitories, where they feed 
 all thofe cattle that are neceflary for fupplying 
 their veffels with provifions. 
 
 Next morning I paffed the river Steenbock^ 
 not far from which is a beautiful feat belonging 
 -to a widow named Wiffel ; and after dinner, 
 before I croffed a fecond river called Sonder 
 End, I faw in my way the Zicken-Huys. 
 This is a repofitory or rather hofpital for the 
 (difeafed oxen belonging to the company : they 
 
 are 
 
AFRICA. Ill 
 
 are here cured fometimes ; but this eftablifh-. 
 merit is attended with one utility^ which is 
 that thefe animals cannot convey their infec- 
 tion to thofe that are well, and which are fe- 
 parated from them, 
 
 I had refolved to travel during the whole 
 night ; but I was obliged to halt at nine in the 
 evening, in the valley of Soete-Melck^ as a 
 boggy marfh impeded us in our way : it 
 would not have been prudent to entangle 
 ourfelves in it whilft it was dark. 
 
 Early in the morning I obferved at a little 
 diftance a beautiful houfe, which was a poft 
 belonging to the company, and commanded 
 by Mr. Martines. As I was acquainted with 
 him, having been feveral times in his com- 
 pany at the fifcal's houfe at the Cape, I paid 
 him a vifit. Like all the reft of the planters, 
 he invited me to fpend a few days with him ; 
 but my impatience to proceed on my journey 
 made me rejeO: his kind offer. About noon 
 I paffed near a fmall horde of Hottentots, who 
 appeared to me fo miferable and wretched, 
 that I gave them a few prefents. I found no 
 cattle of any kind among them ; they fubfifted 
 entirely by what they could procure for their 
 labour in the neighbouring plantations. I in- 
 vited 
 
112 TRAVELS Ilsf 
 
 vited feveral of them to follow me, and pr6« 
 mifed to pay them well on then* return ; but 
 they could not be prevailed on, until I had af- 
 fured them that I would give them a quantity 
 of .tobacco, fufficient to ferve them on the 
 road. They then promifed that they would 
 be at my fervice. — Having paffed the night 
 at Tiger-Hoec^ or the tigers corner, I waited 
 for my recruits till nine in the morning ; but 
 at the moment when I began to defpair of 
 them, and to think of continuing my jour- 
 ney, they arrived, to the number of three, 
 with their arms and baggage. This fmall 
 reinforcement gave me great pleafure : they 
 mixed with the reft ; and, having foon got 
 acquainted, I put off my departure till the 
 afternoon, refolving in the mean time to 
 make a little tour in the neighbourhood. 
 One of the new comers afked permiflion to 
 follow me, affuring me that he was an excel- 
 lent huntfman ; but as I had carried, with me 
 from Europe that prejudice which people 
 generally have againft thofe who found their 
 own praifes, I had no great confidence in the 
 talents of my Hottentot. I however ordered a 
 fufee to be given to him j and we fet out to- 
 gether, 
 
 ' ■ ^- We 
 
AFRICA* 11^, 
 
 o 
 
 We foon faw fome flocks of antelopes, with 
 which the whole country was covered, but they 
 always kept out of our reach : at length, after 
 a good deal of running, my hunter flopping 
 all of a fudden, called out to me that he per- 
 ceived a blaw-kock^ a blue goat, fquatted 
 down. I immediately turned my eyes towards 
 the place which he pointed out, but I obferved 
 nothing. He then begged me to remain quiet, 
 and not to move, afluring me that he would 
 foon put me in poflelfion of the animal. He 
 immediately made a turn round, creeping on his 
 knees, whilft I watched him clofely ; but I could 
 not comprehend the meaning of this ftrata- 
 gem, which to me was entirely new. Soon 
 after the animal rofe up, and began to browfe 
 quietly, without removing from the place. 
 I at firft took it for a white horfe ; for from the 
 place in which I flood it appeared to me to be 
 wholly of that colour, having never before that 
 period feen an antelope of this fpecies : but 
 I was foon undeceived when I obferved its 
 horns. My Hottentot in the mean time con- 
 tinued to drag himfelf along on his belly ; 
 and approaching quickly near enough to take 
 aim, fired at it, upon which it inftantly fell, — 
 I was fo overjoyed that I made only one ftep 
 
 A^OL. I. I to 
 
114 TRAVELS IN 
 
 to the place ; and I had the pleafure of con- 
 templating at my leiiure the moft curious and 
 beautiful fpecies of antelope that Africa pro« 
 duces. For this fervice I affured my Hotten- 
 tot that I would reward him generoufly when 
 I returned to our encampment. The intelli- 
 gence of this man, and the various methods he 
 employed to furprife the animal rendered his 
 fervice of great value and importance : on this 
 account I refolved to gain him over by all thofe 
 allurements which feduce the Hottentots. I 
 began by giving him a large provifion of to- 
 bacco ; and to this prefent I added fome tinder, 
 a tinder-box, and one of my beft knives : he 
 immediately made ufe of the latter, and began 
 to flay the animal with the fame dexterity as 
 he had fired. The fkin I carefully preferved. 
 This antelope has been defcribed by Pennant 
 under the name of the blue antelope^ and by 
 Buffon under that of the tfeiran. The latter 
 has given the figure of a part of its horns : it 
 is rare, and very little known. During my re- 
 fidence in Africa, I never faw but two of thefe 
 antelopes, and another which was brought 
 to the governor fome years before, when I 
 lived at the Cape Town. Thefe, as well as 
 mine, came from the valley of Soete-Melk^ the 
 
 only 
 
AFRICA. 
 
 11^ 
 
 only canton which they inhabit. I was affured 
 that I fhould fee fome of them in the country 
 of the great Nimiquas ; but notwithftanding 
 this information, and all my refearches, 1 found 
 myfelf difappointed : all the favages affirmed 
 that they were not acquainted with them. I 
 was affured alfo that the female had horns as 
 well as the male ; but I can fay nothing on that 
 head, fince the three which I faw were all of 
 the fame kind. 
 
 The principal colour of this animal is a 
 faint blue, inclining to grey; but the belly 
 and the interior part of the legs, throughout 
 their whole length, are as white as fnow ; the 
 headj above all, is beautifully fpotted with 
 white. 
 
 I did not obferve, as Dr. Sparmann fays, 
 that this antelope when alive refembles blue 
 velvet, and that when dead the fkin changes 
 its colour ; living or dead it appeared to me 
 alwavs alike. The tints of that which I 
 brought with me never varied. I faw another 
 at Amfterdam, which had been kept for more 
 than fifteen years. The cafe v/as the fame 
 with regard to that belonging to the governor 
 of the Cape : it was ftill frefher than mine^ 
 but in other refpeds they were equal, I can- 
 
 I 2 . not 
 
ii6 TRAVELS IN 
 
 not help adding here, that I never found 
 this animal properly reprelented in any of the 
 engravings or figures w^hich I have hitherto 
 feen of it. In my defcription of African 
 quadrupedes, I fhall give one from a drawling 
 which I made of this upon the fpot, before 
 it was fkinned. 
 
 Next morning, the weather being cool and 
 cloudy, we marched fix hours in order to reach 
 the borders of a very large pond abounding 
 with fmall tortoifes, of which we caught about 
 twenty ; we broiled them all in the fame 
 manner on the coals, and found them excellent. 
 Thev were from feven to eieht inches in 
 length, and about four in breadtlu The fhell 
 on the back was of a whitifh grey colour, in- 
 clining a little to yellow : when alive, they 
 had a difagreeable fmell ; but by roafting them 
 It was entirely deftroyed. 
 
 It is very remarkable that, when the waters 
 are dried up by exceflive heat, the tortoifes, 
 which always feek for moifture, bury them- 
 felves under the earth in proportion as the fur- 
 face of it becomes dry ; to find them, it is 
 then fufficient to dig to a confiderable depth, in 
 the fpot where they have concealed themfelves. 
 They generally remain as if afleep ; and never 
 
 awaken* 
 
AFRICA. 
 
 117 
 
 awaken, or make their appearance, until the 
 rainy feafon has fuppUed the ponds and fmall 
 lakes with water, on the borders of which 
 they depofit their eggs, where they continue 
 expofed to the air ; they are as large as thofc 
 of a pigeon : they leave to the heat and the fun 
 the care of hatching them. Thefe eggs have 
 an excellent tafle ; the white, which never be- 
 comes hard by the force of fire, preferves the 
 tranfparency of a blueiih jelly. 
 
 I do not know whether this inflind: be com- 
 mon to every fpecies of water tortoifes, and 
 whether they all employ the fame means ; but 
 this I can affert, that every time, during the 
 great droughts, when I wiihed to procure any 
 of them, by digging in thofe places where there 
 had been water, I always found as many as I 
 had occafion for. 
 
 This method of fifhing, or whatever elfe it 
 may be called, was not new to me : for at Su- 
 rinam a ftratagem of the fame kind is employ- 
 ed to catch two fpecies of fifh, which bury 
 themfelves alfo ; and which are called, one the 
 "varappc^ and the other the gorret or the ke^ 
 vikwi. 
 
 Our waggons being ftationed on the banks 
 of this pond, frightened a great number of an- 
 
 I 3 telopes 
 
ii8 TRAVELS IN 
 
 telopes which were coming to drink, and 
 prevented them from approaching us. 
 
 The bontebocks, above all, appeared in flocks 
 of two thoufand at leaft. I am perfuaded that 
 this day, including bubales, antelopes of ail 
 kinds, zebras, and oftriches, I had before my 
 eyes ot one time more than four or five thour- 
 fand animals : of all thefe, however, I wifhed 
 only for an oftrich ; but I could find no me- 
 thod of gratifying my defire, for thefe birds 
 would not fufler us to approach them. The 
 other fpecies, though rather timad, were from 
 time to time within reach of a fhot ; but I was 
 unwilling to fire for the mere pleafure of 
 defiroying them : we had abundance of pro- 
 vifions ; and my powder, befides, was too 
 valuable. 
 
 Between us and Swellendam we had now 
 only two rivers : Breede-Rivier^ the broad 
 river ; and Klip-Rivier^ or the river of flints. 
 I was extremely defirous of being acquainted 
 with this fpot, which is the principal place 
 pf the colony : I propofed to fpend a few 
 days in it, and to furvey all thefe animals 
 pittentively at my ieifure. We arrived there 
 rhe day following, very early. 
 
 Of 
 
AFRICA. 110 
 
 Of all the rivers which we had croffed, the 
 moil confiderablewereDiep-Rlvier and Breede- 
 Rivier. The reft are fcarcely rivulets, during 
 the great heats ; but in the rainy feafon they 
 are ibon converted into impetuous torrents, 
 which cut off all communication with the Cape 
 Town. 
 
 At Swellendam I remained feveral days with 
 Mr. Ryneveld, the bailiff of the place, who 
 treated me with great civility and politenefs. 
 Finding my two carriages overloaded, and too 
 heavy, I was fenfible that it would be neceffary 
 for me to procure a third. My hoft was 
 kind enough to order one with two wheels to 
 be conftruded for me ; and, when I departed, 
 he fupplied me with a large quantity of frefh 
 provifions. 
 
 I recruited a few more Hottentots ; and I 
 purchafed feveral oxen and goats ; together 
 with a cow, to afford me miilk ; and a cock, 
 which I intended to be my natural alarum in 
 the morning. 
 
 There is not a fingle naturallft, nor even a 
 clown, in the country, who does not know 
 that a cock crows regularly during night at 
 the fame hour, and that he takes care to pro-.r 
 claim the return of day. 
 
 I 4 I muft 
 
I20 TRAVELS IN 
 
 I muft here obferve that fome have pre- 
 tended, in more than one public paper, to 
 ridicule this precaution (which procured me 
 pleafure, if it did not afford me a refource in 
 the moment of neceffity), by making me utter 
 abfurd fpeeches, which agree very ill with the 
 emphafis of the narrator. When they affured 
 the public that 1 expedted to fupply by a cock 
 the place of my watch, fliould it happen to be 
 deranged, they ought alfo to have informed 
 the incredulous, at leaft, in what manner a cock 
 can ever become a watch. In the fame ftyle 
 it has been faid, that, meeting a lion for the 
 iii'ii time, " we ^neajiired each other with a 
 " haughty look^ and fuffered each other to pafs 
 ^^ quietly ; both fatisfied with our noble coun- 
 " tenances." 
 
 But leaving thefe poetical romances, I can 
 fay that my hopes in my cock were not difap- 
 pointed. This animal, which always roofted 
 either on my tent or my waggon, regularly 
 announced to me the appearance of aurora. 
 He foon grew tame ; never quitted the neigh- 
 bourhood of my camp ; and, if the want of 
 food induced him to go any diftance, he al- . 
 ways returned on the approach of night. 
 
 Some* 
 
AFRICA. 121 
 
 Sometimes he was purfued by fmall quadru- 
 pedes of the weafel or polecat kind ; and I 
 have feen him, half flying and half runnings 
 retreat towards us, making as loud a noife as 
 he could : but on fuch occafions fome of my 
 people or dogs never failed to go fpeedily to 
 his afliftance. 
 
 An animal thatrendered me more eflfentialfer- 
 vices ; which, by its ufeful prefence, fufpended 
 and even diflipated certain bitter and difagreea- 
 ble reflexions that occurred to my mind ; which, 
 by its fimple and ftriking infl:in6t, feemed to an- 
 ticipate my eflForts ; and which comforted me in 
 my languor — was an ape, of that kind fo com- 
 mon at the Cape, under the name of bawians. 
 As it was extremely familiar, and attached itfelf 
 to me in a particular manner, I made it my 
 tafter. When we found any fruit or roots un- 
 known to my Hottentots, we never touched 
 them until my dear Kees had firfl: tailed them ; 
 if it refufed them, we judged them to be 
 either difagreeable or dangerous, and threw 
 them away. 
 
 An ape has one peculiarity which diftin- 
 guifhes it from all other animals, and brings it 
 very near to man. It has received from nature 
 ;in equal fhare of greedinefs and curiofity ; 
 
 though 
 
122 TRAVELS IN 
 
 though deftitute of appetite, it taftes without 
 neceflity every kind of food that is oiTered to 
 it ; and always lays its paw upon every thing 
 that it finds within Its reach. 
 
 There was another quality In Kees which I 
 valued ftill more. He was my heft guardian ; 
 and, whether by night or by day, he inftantly 
 awoke on the leaft fign of danger. By his cries, 
 and other expreflions of fear, we were always 
 informed of the approach of an enemy before 
 my dogs could difcover it : they were fo accuf- 
 tomed to his voice, that they llept in perfed: 
 ftcurity, and never went the rounds ; on which 
 account I was extremely angry, fearing that I 
 ftould no longer find that indifpenfable afTift- 
 ance which I had a right to expedl, if any dif- 
 order or fatal accident ihould deprive me of 
 my faithful guardian. However, when he had 
 once given the alarm, they all flopped to watch 
 the fignal ; and on the lead motion of his eyes^ 
 or-fliaking of his head, I have feea them all 
 rufh forwards, and fcamper away in that quar- 
 ter to which they obferved his looks directed. 
 
 1 often carried him along with ine in my 
 hunting excurfions ; during which he would 
 amufe himfelf in climbing up trees, in order to 
 fearch for gum, which he was remarkably fond 
 
 o£ 
 
AFRICA. i2j 
 
 of. Sometimes he difcovered honey in the' 
 crevices of rocks, or in hollow trees ; but when 
 he found nothing, when fatigue and exercife 
 had whetted his appetite, and when he began 
 to be feriouily oppreffed by hunger, a fcene 
 took place which to me appeared extremely 
 comic. When he could not find gum and 
 honey, he fearched for roots, and ate them 
 with much relifh ; efpecially one of a particu^ 
 lar fpecies, v/hich, unfortunately for me, I 
 found excellent and very refrefhing, and which 
 I greatly wifhed to partake of. But Kees w^as 
 very cunning: when he found any of this root, 
 if I was not near him to claim my part, he 
 made great hafte^ to devour it, having his eyes 
 all the time directed towards me. By the- 
 diftance I had to go before I could approach 
 him, he judged of the time that he had to eat 
 it alone ; and I indeed arrived too late. Some- 
 times, however, when he was deceived in his 
 calculation, and when I cam.e upon him fooner 
 than he expedted, he inftantly endeavoured 
 to conceal the morfels from me : but, by means 
 .of a blow well applied, 1 obliged jhim to reftorc 
 the theft ; and in my turn becoming mailer oF 
 the envied prey, he was obliged to receive 
 laws froirt the ftronger party, Kees enter- - 
 
 taiaed 
 
124 TRAVELS IN 
 
 tained no hatred or rancour ; and I eafily made 
 him comprehend how deteftable that bafe 
 felfifhnefs was, of which he had fet me an 
 example. 
 
 To tear up thefe roots, he purfued a very 
 ingenious method, which afforded me much 
 amufement. He laid hold of the tuft of leaves 
 with his teeth ; and preffing his fore paws 
 firmly againft the earth, and drawing his head 
 backwards, the root generally followed : when 
 this method, which required confiderable force, 
 did not fucceed, he feized the tuft as before, as 
 clofe to the earth as he could ; then throwing 
 his heels over his head, the root always 
 yielded to the jerk which he gave it. In our 
 marches, when he found himfelf tired, he got 
 upon the back of one of my dogs, which had 
 the complaifance to carry him for whole hours 
 together : one only, which was larger and 
 ftronger than the reft, ought to have ferved 
 him for this purpofe ; but the cunning animal 
 well knew how to avoid this drudgery. The 
 moment he perceived Kees on his fhoulders, 
 he remained motionlefs, and fuffered the cara- 
 van to pafs on without ever ftirring from the 
 fpot. The timorous Kees ftill perfifted ; but 
 as foon as he began to lofe fight of us, he was 
 I obliged 
 
AFRICA. I2J 
 
 obliged to difmoimt : and both he and the dog 
 ran with all their might to overtake us. For 
 fear of being furprifed, the dog dexteroufly 
 fuffered him to get before him, and watched him 
 with great attention. In fhort, he had acquired 
 an afcendancy over my whole pack, for which 
 he was perhaps indebted to the fuperiority of 
 his inftinfi: ; for among animals, as among 
 men, addrefs often gets the better of ftrength. 
 While at his meals, Kees could not endure 
 guefts ; if any of the dogs approached too near 
 him at that time, he gave them a hearty blow, 
 which thefe poltroons never returned, but 
 fcampered away as faft as they could. 
 
 It appeared to me extremely fingular, and I 
 could not account for it, that, next to the fer- 
 pent, the animal which he moft dreaded was 
 one of his own fpecles : whether it was that 
 he was fenfible that his being tamed had de- 
 prived him of great part of his faculties, and 
 that fear had got polTeffion of his fenfes ; or 
 that he was jealous, and dreaded a rivalfhip in 
 my friendfhip. It would have been very eafy 
 for me to catch wild ones, and to tame them ; 
 but I never thought of it. I had given Kees 
 a place in my heart, which no other after him 
 could occupy ; and I fufEciently teftiiied how 
 
 far 
 
i^6 TRAVELS IN 
 
 far he might depend on my conftancy. Some- 
 times he heard others of the fame Ipecies mak- 
 ing a noife in the mountains ; and, notwith- 
 ftanding his terror, he thought proper, I know 
 not for what reafon, to reply to them. When 
 they heard his voice, they approached : but, 
 as foon as he perceived any of them, he fled 
 with horrible cries ; and, running between our 
 legs, implored the protection of every body, 
 while his limbs quivered through fear. We 
 found it no eafy matter to calm hirii ; but he 
 gradually refumed, after fome time, his natural 
 tranquillity. He was very much addicted 
 to thieving, a fault common to aim oft all 
 domeftic animals ; but in Kees it was dif- 
 guifed into a talent, the ingenious efforts of 
 which I admired. Notwithftanding all the 
 correction beftowed upon him by my people^ 
 who took the matter ferioufly, he was never 
 amended. He knew perfectly well how to 
 untie the ropes of a bafket, to take provifions 
 from it ; and above all, milk, of which he waji 
 remarkably fond : more than once he has 
 made me go without any. I often beat him 
 pretty feverely myfelf ; but, when he efcaped 
 from me, he did not appear at my tent till 
 towards night, 
 
 2 On 
 
AFRICA. 127 
 
 Oil thefe details I have dwelt with great 
 pleafure ; and if they are nothing to the pro- 
 grefs of human knowledge, they are a great 
 deal for my fimple and ingenuous heart. They 
 recal to my memory very agreeable amufe- 
 ments ; hours of ferenity and peace, and the 
 only moments of my life in which I have 
 known the full value of exiftence. During 
 the whole time that I refided at Swellehdam, 
 I made a fuitable return to the tender cares of 
 my hoft by the moft lively teftimonies of gra- 
 titude ; but this was not the manner of life 
 that fuited my humour; and as foon as my two- 
 wheeled waggon was finifhed, 1 packed up my 
 kitchen furniture and my other eiTeCis, and fet 
 out, without delay, on the 1 2th of January 
 1782. According to the informatidn I had 
 received, I dired:ed my courfe alv/^iys along 
 the eaftern coaft, keeping at a certain diftanc-e 
 from the fea. The corn farms do not extend 
 further in this quarter : the moderate price of 
 grain is not an equivalent for the difficulty of 
 tranfporting it to the town. 
 
 Two leagues from this place I pafTed a fmali 
 river, named Bufflias ; and after two days 
 march we arrived at a wood called the Grand- 
 father's wood. Whilft I was making prepara- 
 tions 
 
128 TRAVELS IN 
 
 tions for fpending twenty-four hours in this 
 wood, which I wifhed to traverfe, and was count- 
 ing my dogs, I perceived that one was miffing, 
 which was a favourite bitch, named Rofetta. 
 Her abfence embarraffed me very much : it 
 was a real lofs, that reduced my pack almoft to 
 nothing ; and deprived me of my favourite, 
 which on her part loved me much. Having 
 afked one of my people if any of them had 
 obferved her on the road, one of them afTured 
 me that he had given her fome food, but in 
 the morning. After a fruitlefs fearch of an hour 
 or two, I made my people difperfe, and call her 
 on all fides : I alfo ordered fome fufees to be 
 fired ; that the reports, if they reached her, 
 might diredl her what courfe to purfue. But as 
 all this did not fucceed, I caufed one of my 
 Hottentots to get on horfeback, bidding him 
 return the fame way we had come, and bring her 
 back to me whatever it might coft. After four 
 hours I had the pleafure of feeing my meiTen- 
 ger arrive full gallop, carrying before him, on 
 the bow of his faddle, a chair and a large pan- 
 nier. Rofetta ran before him ; and leaping 
 upon me, almoft opprefTed me with her caref- 
 fes. My Hottentot told me that he had found 
 her at the diftance of two leagues from the 
 
 place 
 
AFRICA. i2g 
 
 place where we halted, fitting upon the road, 
 clofe to a chair and a bafket, which had got 
 loofe from our baggage without being per- 
 ceived. I had heard many circumflances, no 
 lefs extraordinary than this, related of the fide- 
 Uty of dogs ; but I had never before been a 
 witnefs to an inftance of it. I confefs that the 
 account given me by my meifenger affedted 
 me fo much, that I fhed tears. I again carefled 
 the poor animal ; and this mark of attachment 
 which flie had given, endeared her ftill more 
 to me. Had fhe not been found, fhe mull 
 have periihed by hunger on the fpot, or be- 
 come a prey during night to the firft ferocious 
 animal that might have met her. As the fufees 
 which I ordered to be difcharged on her ac- 
 count had not roufed any game ; and as I 
 was befides convinced, from an exadi furvey 
 of the foreft, that I could not hope to find 
 any, we proceeded on our march the next 
 morning. 
 
 Scarcely had we advanced four leagues, 
 when, in crofling a fmall river w^hich takes its 
 fource in this foreft, my two-wheeled wag- 
 gon was overturned. The remainder of the 
 day w^as fcarcely fufEcient for us to recover, 
 
 Vol. L K dry, 
 
I30 TRAVELS IN 
 
 dry, and put in order my kitchen furniture 
 and neceffaries : a great part of my procelain 
 being broken, was left on the fpot ; but very 
 luckily I had more to replace it. Having 
 proceeded three leagues further, we were 
 flopped by the river Duyvenochs, which at 
 that time was not fordable. As this country 
 was covered with wood, I flattered myfelf 
 with the hopes of finding pretty birds and 
 infedls : refolving, therefore, to wait till the 
 river fliould decreafe, I ordered my tents to 
 be erected at the edge of the foreft, while my 
 Hottentots conftrudled fome huts. 
 
 I was, however, very unlucky ; for the in- 
 habitants of the neighbourhood, informed of 
 my arrival, came with great eagernefs to pay 
 me a vifit, and to difturb me in my charming 
 retreat. I was teafed with the long pream* 
 bles they made to their obliging fpeeches, in 
 which they reproached me for not flopping 
 among them ; and harraffing me with the offers 
 which they repeated, under a thoufand dif- 
 ferent forms, to prevail upon me, they men- 
 tioned, with much emphafis, feveral curious 
 travellers whom they had entertained, and 
 particularly Dr. Sparmann, a member of the 
 
 Swedifli 
 
AFRICA, iji 
 
 Sweediili Academy : but, however refpedable 
 this authority appeared, I thought proper not 
 to quit my camp* 
 
 I had refolved never to lodge in any habi- 
 tation, during the courfe of my travels, that I 
 might be more at freedom, both in the day- 
 time and in the night ; and that I might have 
 my people and baggage always at hand, in 
 order to hufband thofe valuable moments 
 which one muft always facrifice to the idle 
 talk and abfurd relations of thefe planters^ 
 who fatigue you with their tales, and exhaufl 
 you with their queftions ; but, above all, that 
 I might fave m.y fpirituous liquors, with which 
 I fhould have been continually obliged to en- 
 liven their tedious converfations. I therefore 
 thanked thefe gentlemen, who were not able 
 to divert me from my purpofe, fo firm and 
 Irrevocable v/as my refoiution. The condudt 
 of Dr. Sparmann was no exam.ple to me ; for 
 our different views mud have given us dif- 
 ferent ideas : he had occafion only for day- 
 light, to enable him to purfue his botanical 
 refearches ; but as I often fpent a part of the 
 night in hunting, if I found it neceffary, I 
 fhould have been obliged to abflain from this 
 pradice, or to derange my hofts. Another 
 
 K 2 motive. 
 
132 TRAVELS IN 
 
 motive, which is purely perfonal, may, in two 
 words, give an idea of my charader, and of 
 the plan of life which it had induced me to 
 embrace : fhould it appear to be a mark of 
 felf-love, my age, the education I have re- 
 ceived, my country, and the difficulties I 
 overcame, will, I hope, eafily plead my ex- 
 cufe. Though I acknowledge the utility of 
 proper highways among civilized nations, my 
 being accuftomed to form them myfelf, in my 
 youth, at Surinam, made me always confider 
 them as a reftraint which leffens the value of 
 liberty. Proud of his origin, man thinks it 
 an indignity that people fliould beforehand 
 dare to number his fteps. I have always care- 
 fully avoided beaten tracks ; aud never thought 
 myfelf completely free, but when furrounded 
 by the rocks, forefls, and defarts of Africa, 
 I was certain of meeting with no other traces 
 of human labour than thofe which I left my- 
 felf. By the freedom of my will, which com- 
 manded them with fovereign fway, and by 
 my complete independence, I really perceived 
 in man the monarch of all animated beings, 
 the abfolute defpot of nature. Situations 
 which I thought delightful, might by others 
 be thought very alarming, Thefe whimfical 
 
 notions 
 
AFRICA. 133 
 
 notions proceed from the impreflions I received 
 in the early part of my life \' they are only 
 the pure and natural fentiments of liberty, 
 which rejects, without diftindlion, every thing 
 that feems defirous of prefcribing it bounds. 
 I was attached to my principles by too many 
 reafons not to adhere rigidly to them ; and it 
 I except only one inftance, when through 
 policy it was abfolutely impoffible for me to 
 refufe an invitation, I never deviated from my 
 plan during all my travels. 
 
 I diftributed the employment of my time ; 
 and the ufual order of my occupations was as 
 follows : — During the night, when we did 
 not travel, I flept in my tent, or in my wag- 
 gon : at the break of day, awakened by my 
 cock, I immediately got ready every thing 
 myfelf for making my coffee, whilft my peo- 
 ple were employed in cleaning and taking 
 care of my animals. On the firft appearance 
 of the fun's rays, I took my fufee, and fetting 
 out with my ape, we made a diligent fearch 
 every where around till the hour of ten. 
 When I returned to my tent, I found it al- 
 ways clean and well fwept : it was under the 
 particular care of an old African, named 
 S%vanepoel\ who, being no longer capable of 
 
 K 3 follow- 
 
134 
 
 TRAVELS IN 
 
 following us in our excurfions on foot, re- 
 mained to guard the camp, in which he pre- 
 ferved good order. The furniture of my tent 
 was not cumberfome ; one or two chairs, a: table 
 which I employed only for diileffing anim.als, 
 and fome utenfils neceffary for prefervingthem, 
 formed all its ornaments. I then laboured from 
 ten o'clock till noon ; and daring that interval 
 I claffed in my drawers the infefts which I had 
 caught. — 'The ceremony of my dinner was 
 equally fimple. I placed upon my knees a piece 
 of board, covered with a cloth, upon which one 
 difh only of roaft or broiled meat was ferved up. 
 After this frugal repaft, which did not detain 
 me long, I returned to my labour, if I had any 
 work to finifh ; and then I fet out to hunt till 
 funfet, On my return I lighted a candle, and 
 palTed a few hours in committing to my journal 
 my obfervations, acquifitions, and in fhort all 
 the events of the day. During this tim^e my 
 Hottentots colledted my oxen around my wag- 
 gons and tent. The goats, after they were milk-^ 
 ed, lay down here and there indifcriminately 
 among my dogs. When bufmefs was fmifhed^ 
 and a large fir e kindled, as ufual, we placed our« 
 felves in a circle round it. I drank my tea ; and 
 while my people were cordially fmoking their 
 
 pipes^^ 
 
AFRICA. 135 
 
 pipes, they told tales, the natural humour of 
 which ofcen made me fhake my fides with 
 laughter. I took great pleafure in encouraging 
 them ; and in proportion as I fhewed more 
 franknefs, good-nature, and attention, they 
 were the lefs timid before me. Often indeed, 
 when in better humour, or more favourably dif- 
 pofed by the fight of a charming evening, after 
 the fatigues of the day, I felt myfelf hurried 
 away by an involuntary charm, and I gently 
 yielded to the illufion. I then faw them con- 
 tending who fhould (hew moft wit to pleafe me ; 
 and the beft ftory-teller could judge favourably 
 of his performance by the profound filence 
 which prevailed among us. I know not what 
 powerful attraction continually carries me back 
 to thefe peaceful fcenes. I ftill behold myfelf in 
 the middle of my camp, furrounded by my peo- 
 ple and animals : a plant, a flower, a fragment of 
 rock, fcattered here and there— -nothing efcapes 
 my memory ; and this fped:acle, always affed:« 
 ing, every where amufes and follows me. 
 
 Our converfations were fometimes prolong- 
 ed till very late at night ; and I muft candidly 
 confefs that lively fallies which greatly de- 
 lighted me, often efcaped from thefe clownifh 
 people, who had never been poliihed by edu- 
 
 K 4 cation. 
 
136 TRAVELS IN 
 
 cation. I afked them many queftions ; above 
 all, refpeding Kolben, and different authors ; 
 and concerning their religion, their laws, and 
 their cuftoms : but they openly laughed in my 
 face. Sometimes, taking the matter in a ferious 
 light, I faw them fall in a paflion, fhrug up 
 their fhoulders, and give vent to their im- 
 precations. I remember that, endeavouring to 
 vilify their faculties and intelligence, in order to 
 nettle them, I compared them to thofe people 
 v\rho, in the capital of a great nation like Paris, 
 procure without labour a genteel fubfiftence to 
 a prodigious number of vagabonds, honoured 
 , with the modeft appellation oi Jharpers, I 
 reprefented to them, under a thoufand differ- 
 ent forms, the ingenious refources of thefe ca- 
 meleons, and greatly extolled their merit : but 
 with what fatisfaftion didi obferve them unani- 
 moufly prefer the fimplicity of their rural and 
 peaceful life, and confider thefe refources as bafe 
 and fordid means, for a nation who boaft of 
 their fuperiority over the people of nature ! — 
 Worthy mortals, who have been painted to us 
 as devouring your fellow-creatures, and v/hom 
 a child however might manage ! peaceful Hot- 
 tentots ! treat wdth contempt thofe people who 
 ^^diice you to a ftate of llavery, and diftinguiOi 
 
 yo'a 
 
AFRICA. 137 
 
 you from brutes only by the cruelties which 
 they withhold from them, in order to beftow 
 them upon you. 
 
 My animals were fo well accuftomed to mix 
 among us, that I v/as often obliged to force 
 many of them to rife before I could reach my 
 tent. I had a few flieep, w^hich I fpared as a 
 refource, in cafe of fcarcity ; but I always 
 kept fome old ones to tame the new comers. 
 
 The canton in w^hich we refided abounded 
 with partridges of three different kinds ; one of 
 which was as large as our pheafant. This 
 was our ufual food. We put a icore of them 
 into our kettles at once, and they made excellent 
 foup and jelly brcth. We found alfo a kind of 
 antelopcjof the fize of our European goats; the ' 
 fkin of which was of a blackilh brov/n colour, 
 with a few white fpots on the thighs. I never 
 found any thing more excellent eating. I 
 killed feveral of them ; as well as of another 
 fpecies, much fmaller, which I ihall defcribe 
 hereafter. 
 
 My refidence in this place had confiderabiy 
 augmented my coUedlion of infers and of cu- 
 rious birds ; and as an inhabitant of the neigh- 
 bourhood, who was going to the Cape, came 
 to offer ms his fervices, I readily accepted 
 
 them,. 
 
13S TRAVELS IN 
 
 them, and begged him to deliver my fmall 
 treafare into the hands of Mr. Boers the fifcaL 
 I had agreed v/ith the latter that I would fend 
 him all my novelties as often as I could find 
 an opportunity : by this plan, even in the com- 
 mencement of my journey, I preferved many 
 valuable objedls from the danger of accidents, 
 and referved room for others. 
 
 My neighbours occafionally fent me vege- 
 tables and fruit ; and Mr. Vanwerck, who 
 refided nearer my camp, knowing that I was 
 fond of milk, fent me every evening a pailful, 
 which I fliared with my people. Kees always 
 perceived the approach of the perfon who 
 brought it, even at a great diftance, and never 
 failed to run to meet him. 
 
 From Swellendam, as far as Duyvenochs, 
 the paftures are excellent ; and the land, fupe- 
 rior to that of the Cape, would produce corn 
 in abundance :. but the planters cultivate no 
 more than what is neceffary for their own 
 confumption ; and the only trade they carry 
 on with the Cape confifts in cattle and but- 
 ter. Some vineyards are found here ; but, as 
 the wine is of a bad quality, it is converted 
 into vinegar or fpirits, which are fold in the 
 
 neighbourhood. 
 
 On 
 
AFRICA. 
 
 139 
 
 On the 2 7 til of the month, perceiving that 
 the river had fubfiided much, we crofied it 
 without fuftauiing any damage. V/e croiTed 
 alfo the river Falfe; and^ afccr a march of thir- 
 teen hours, arrived at tlie river cf Gous or 
 Gourits : at the latter, however, v/e v/ere 
 flopped ; for we found it impoffible to crofs it, 
 as it was larger than the Seine oppofite the 
 king's garden at Paris. Great ftorms muft 
 have inundated the country through which it 
 flows ; for at that feafon it is generally, like 
 the reft, only a rivulet which may be eafily 
 forded. Its banks ctbound with larsre thornv 
 trees*, and with great nurpbers of partridges ; 
 particularly of that large fpecies which the 
 inhabitants of the Cape call pheafants. After 
 remaining encamped three days, obferving no 
 decreafe in the river, and being alv/ays impa- 
 tient to penetrate ftill farther, I found only 
 one method of extricating myfelf from my 
 embarraffment. I refolved to caufe a large 
 raft to be conftruded ; and, • having cut 
 down fome trees, we employed the bark of 
 them to make ropes. But to what labour did 
 this fatal operation fubjedt us ! We v^^^ere ob-r 
 
 * The MirjiQja Nmtlca, 
 
 ligcd 
 
I40 TRAVELS IN 
 
 liged to unload our carriages, to take ofF their 
 wheels, and to embark them piece by piece. 
 All my animals crofled by fwimming ; and in 
 feveral paffages I reached the oppofite fhore, 
 with my people and effefts, without the fmalleft 
 diforder, or the leaft accident. This attempt, 
 which was attended with wonderful fuccefs, 
 gave me great confidence refpedting the future, 
 and tended greatly to increafe my courage.— 
 This operation, however, coft us three days 
 continued labour ; during which time I was 
 obliged to fufpend my hunting excurfions. I 
 jnyfelf fet an example to the reft, and handled 
 the axe like the meaneft of my Hottentots. I 
 judged the precaution of removing a little 
 farther very neceflary to our common fafety ; 
 for the banks of the river which we had quit- 
 ted were fo parched and fo barren, that all my 
 oxen muft have died of hunger. 
 
 Our carriages being remounted, and well, 
 loaded, we continued our journey, and tra- 
 velled fourteen leagues in two days, when 
 we found ourfelves oppofite Mojfel-Baie^ or 
 Mufcle Bay, which in charts is called the 
 Bay of Saint Blaife. It is very difficult for' 
 fhips here to approach the coaft, on account 
 of the fharp rocks that border it, the bafes of 
 
 which 
 
AFRICA. 141 
 
 which extend a good way into the fea; but 
 on the northern fide there is a fmall beach, 
 where boats may land with great eafe. The 
 environs of this country are interfperfed with 
 excellent plantations, which might be a great 
 refource for fhips that come hither to water : 
 a falubrious fpring, diftant about a thoufand 
 paces from the fea, would fupply them with 
 abundance of water. During our abode in 
 this bay, we found no want of oyflers. We 
 often fifhed with a line, and this method 
 alone procured us a great many excellent fifli ; 
 what we could not confume, I ordered to be 
 faked. Every night we were alarmed with the 
 cries of hysenas, which appeared to be very 
 furious animals : our oxen were much dif- 
 toirbed by them; but by means of large fires, 
 with which wefurrounded our camp, they were 
 prevented from attempting to approach us. 
 
 At the diftance of a league, I found a 
 kraal, confifting of four huts, in which was 
 a Hottentot family, not exceeding twenty-five 
 or thirty perfons, to whom I gave a fmall 
 quantity of tobacco in exchange for feme 
 mats, which I was very glad to procure. This 
 difcovery gave me great pleafure, both on 
 
 account 
 
142 TRAVELS IN 
 
 account of the profit which I derived from 
 it, as well as of the agreeable furprife it oc- 
 cafioned. I took great delight in contem- 
 plating them, for a long time, in their peace- 
 ful occupations. They poflefl'ed live milch 
 cows, and a fmall flock of fheep. In the 
 labouring feafon, the men difperfed them- 
 felves over the neighbouring plantations, where 
 by their induftry they amaffed enough to 
 procure themfelves tobacco, and to render 
 their fituation more comfortable. They af- 
 fured me that, in the large woods with 
 which the fides of all the mountains in this 
 country are covered, elephants and buffaloes 
 were fometimes to be met with. Upon this 
 intelligence I immediately began to fearch the 
 mountains and forefts ; but my labour was in 
 vain, for neither I nor my people could dif- 
 cover any of them. I perceived, indeed, the 
 prints of the feet of elephants, but they had 
 been made long before ; from which I guefTed, 
 what was afterwards told me, that if chance 
 at any time brings one of thefe animals into 
 this country, the inhabitants affemble, and 
 oblige it to betake itfelf to flight, if they can- 
 not deftroy it. 
 
 On 
 
AFRICA. 143 
 
 On the 7th, at five in the mornnig, I quit- 
 ted Mufcle Bay, and at two in the afternoon 
 croffed a river called Klein-Brak ; it has its 
 fource in a wood, riling on a ridge of moun- 
 tains, which in this place is only a league 
 diftant from the fea. Next morning we ar- 
 rived at a large river of the fame name, 
 which is no more than three leagues from the 
 former. The flowing of the tide renders the 
 water of this river brackifh : to crofs it with- 
 out danger, we were obliged to w^ait for the 
 ebb-tide ; and during that interval I procured 
 feveral fea- fowls, Vv- hich were extremely abun- 
 dant in this canton. I found here thoufands 
 of pelicans and flamingoes ; the deep rofe- 
 colour of the one, and the dull white of the 
 other, exhibited a contraft altogether new and 
 curious. 
 
 After quitting the river, we had to climb 
 a fleep and rugged mountain, which at firfl 
 frightened me a good deal ; but by the help of 
 patience, care, and time, we left it behind us. 
 When we had entirely reached its fummit, we 
 were well repaid for all our fatigue, by the 
 noble view which opened on our fight ; we 
 had here an opportunity of admiring the 
 -moft beautiful country in the univerfe. At a 
 2. diftance 
 
144 TRAVELS IN 
 
 diftance we difcovered that chain of moun* 
 tains, covered with lofty'forefts, which bound- 
 ed our profpe6t towards the weft ; and un- 
 der us we beheld an immenfe valley, a- 
 domed with agreeable hills, variegated in an 
 infinite number of fhapes, and which extend 
 in an undulating manner as far as the fea^ 
 Enamelled meads, and the moft beautiful paC- 
 tures, flill added to this magnificent fcene, 
 with which I was truly enchanted* This 
 country bears the name of Aiiteniqua ; which, 
 in the Hottentot idiom, fignifies a man loaded 
 with honey. One indeed cannot proceed a 
 ftep here without feeing a thoufand fwarms 
 of bees: the flowers on which they feed fpring 
 up in myriads ; the mixed odours which ex- 
 hale fiom them, and which yield a delightful 
 gratification to the fmell — their colours, their 
 Variety, and the pure and cool air which one 
 breathes — all engage your attention, and fuf- 
 pend your courfe. Nature has made thefe 
 enchanting regions like a fairy land. The 
 calices of all thefe flowers abound with ex- 
 cellent juices, from which the bees compofe 
 their honey : they depofit it every where 
 around, in hollow rocks and trees. My peo- 
 ple were extremely defirous of flopping fome 
 
 time 
 
AFRICA. I4J 
 
 time in this charming retreat, but I was afraid 
 it would be to them what Capua was to 
 Annibal's foldiers. Without lofs of time, 
 therefore, I gave orders for continuing our 
 journey, and haftened towards the river Wet- 
 Els, which takes its name from the woods 
 that grow on its banks. From the large 
 brackifli river to this place, we had travelled 
 only feven leagues. 
 
 On the 9th, we croffed feveral fmall rivu- 
 lets, which flowing down from the moun- 
 tains, run into the fea through an hundred 
 different channels. 
 
 All the ftreams of thefe rivulets have the 
 amber colour of Madeira wine, and I found 
 that their tafte was ferruginous ; but I did 
 not take time to examine whether this tafte 
 and colour proceeded from their flowing 
 through fome mine in their pafliage, or from 
 the roots and leaves of trees which they water, 
 and carry along with them. From this place the 
 laft poft belonging to the Company was not 
 far diftant, and we arrived at it after a quick 
 march of three hours. I was now about to 
 w^ithdraw myfelf from the dominion of man, 
 and to approach a little towards his original 
 condition. 
 
 Vol. I. L Mr. 
 
146 TRAVELS IN 
 
 M. Mulder, the commander, came to re- 
 ceive me, and fhewed me every mark of 
 friendlliip. He has under hnn only a fubal- 
 tern officer, and about fifteen men, who have 
 all been either foldiers or failors on board the 
 Company's fliips. Thefe people cut down all 
 the timber they have occafion for, and con- 
 ftrud the carriages deftined to tranfport it : 
 which is a very abfurd plan ; for if this timber 
 were depofited at Mufcle Bay^ a paltry bark 
 might in one voyage carry more ta the Cape,, 
 than would be conveyed on carriages in thirty 
 years : this vv^ould afluredly be a confiderable 
 faving to the Company, and a general benefit 
 to the colonies. I mav add alfo that the in- 
 habitants of the Cape would not find them- 
 felves reduced to the neceffity of burning 
 Imall wood, which they colledl at a' great 
 expence every where around, by flaves who 
 have no other employment ; a method which 
 coils at leail the double of what is paid for the 
 fineft wood in the timber-vards at Paris*. 
 
 Can it be believed that the dlred:ors of the 
 Company, for their own ufe, ihould order 
 fliips to be fent every year from Amfterdam,,, 
 loaded with planks and boards of every kind, 
 whilft in this countrv there are Iiiimenfe fo- 
 
 reftsj 
 
AFRICA. 
 
 H7 
 
 refts, and the moft beautiful trees in the world ? 
 This abfurdity, however, is not at all afto- 
 nilhing. The Company gratultoufly furnifhes 
 the governor and all the ofBcers with whatever 
 wood they have occafion for, and it is deli- 
 vered to them at their houfes, without any 
 expence ; the governor therefore has no 
 perfonal intereft to extend his views to this 
 part of the adminiiiration, and to abolifii an 
 abufe fo prejudicial to the colony. 
 
 The whole country of Auteniqua, from the 
 chain of mountains to the fea, is inhabited by 
 feveral planters, who rear a quantity of cattle, 
 make butter, cut down timber, and colled: 
 honey, all of which they tranfport to the 
 Cape. 
 
 I was in fome meafure filled with Indigna- 
 tion to fee people, who have wood within 
 their reach, employ it in commerce, and not 
 have the courage to build for themfelves ha- 
 bitable houfes. They live in wretched habi- 
 tations, conftrudted of wicker-work daubed 
 over with clay : the ikin of a buffalo, fixed 
 at the four corners to as many ftakes, 
 ferves them for a bed ; and the door, which 
 is at the fame time a window, is fhut by a 
 ^ mat ; while two or three mutilated chairs, a 
 
 I. 2 few 
 
148 TRAVELS IN 
 
 few pieces of plank, a kind of table, and a 
 pitiful box two feet fquare, form all the fur- 
 niture of thefe real liuts. This is the pidure 
 of the moft profound mifery contrafted with 
 the charms of this terreftrial paradife ; for the 
 beauties of thefe regions, which I have already 
 fketched out, extend even beyond Auteni- 
 i]ua. 
 
 Thefe people however live well ; they have 
 game and fait- water filh in abundance ; and 
 enjoy exclufively, over all the other cantons 
 of thefe colonies, the advantage of having the 
 whole year, without interruption, vegetables 
 and plants of every kind in their gardens. 
 For thefe valuable advantages they are in- 
 debted to the excellence of the foil, and to 
 its being naturally watered by fmall ftreams, 
 which crofs each other in a thoufand different 
 diredions, and, as one may fay, lay the four 
 feafons under contribution to fertilize it. This 
 country may juftly be called the Limagne "'''' 
 of Africa. Thefe ftreams, which never dry 
 up in this delightful territory, proceed from 
 a caufe well known. The high mountains 
 
 * A territory of France, in Lower Auvcrgne, lying 
 along the river AUier. It is one of the fineft and molt 
 fertile plains in France. T. 
 
 towards 
 
AFRICA., 149 
 
 towards the eaft, which are covered with 
 forefts, flop the clouds and the fogs carried by 
 the eaft wind from the fea, and this occafions 
 very abundant rains. 
 
 It feemed favourable to my views that I 
 ihould remain fome days here with the com- 
 mander ; and this is the only inftance in 
 w^hich I deviated from my plan. Befides 
 particular motives which induced me to take 
 this ftep, I was detained by political reafons, 
 and I could not refufe his invitation with any 
 kind of decency : an order had been every 
 where ferit to fuffer me to pafs, to affift me, 
 and to furniih me with every thing that I 
 Ihould have occafion for. As Mr. Mulder 
 occupied the laft poft, he had received more 
 pofitive orders than the reft, and I could not 
 help complying with his wiihes : the honour- 
 able motives of his behaviour were to me a 
 fufficient invitation ; and perhaps he himfclf 
 depended upon the teftimony which my gra- 
 titude would give in his favour, when I re- 
 turned to the Cape. 
 
 As foon as I arrived at his habitation, I 
 began, according to cuftom, to examine the 
 neighbourhood. In traverfing the woods, I 
 found the traces of buffaloes and elephants, 
 
 L 3 which 
 
1^0 TRAVELS IN 
 
 which appeared to be very frefh ; 1 faw alfo 
 fome of their dung: and obferved a great num- 
 ber of different birds, none of which I had 
 hitherto met with, and among others feveral 
 touracos. Lefs than this would have been 
 fufficient to detain me in this fpot. At the 
 diftance of four or five leagues from the place 
 where Mr. Mulder refided, I found, on the 
 edge of a wood, a very commodious and con- 
 venient fpot for fixing my camp. 
 
 As Mr. Mulder was about to depart for the 
 Cape, he fupplied me with twenty pounds of 
 gunpowder ; I embraced this opportunity alfo 
 to write to my friends, and to fend Mr. Boers 
 about an hundred birds, and a fmall box of 
 infeds. I increafed my train with a few 
 oxen, engaged three more Hottentots, pur- 
 chafed a young horfe, which I propofed to 
 breed myfelf to hunting ; and on the 9th 
 of February bid adieu to Mr. and Mrs. Mul- 
 der, in order to take polTeflion of my foreft, 
 and to eftablifh myfelf in the fpot which 1 
 had made choice of. 
 
 I had beforehand fent my people to prepare 
 the place, to cut down fom.e trees, and to clear 
 away the buihes with which the ground was 
 covered, that on my arrival I might be able to 
 
 erect 
 
AFRICA. 151 
 
 erefl: my tents, which I accomplillicd In a mo- 
 ment. My kitchen was eiiablilhed under a 
 large tree, that feemed to have grown old 
 there on purpofe ; and my Hottentots, on their 
 part, built and arranged a few huts as well as 
 they could. At the dillance often paces from 
 us we had a fmall ftream of water, pure as 
 cryftal ; and oppofite a little hill, covered with 
 excellent grafs for our horfes and oxen ; by 
 thefe means we kept them always near us. 
 So many advantages united, rendered this an 
 agreeable refting place ; but unluckily we 
 were obliged to remove feveral times ; as the 
 game of all kinds, rendered fhy by our conti- 
 nual purfuits, began to grow fcarce, and would 
 have retired from us altogether. 
 
 I was fometimes vifited by the inhabitants 
 of this diftridl ; which enabled me to procure 
 a fufficiency of fruits, vegetables, milk, and 
 of every thing elfe they could fupply me 
 with : their vifits indeed coft me fome bottles 
 of fpirits ; but as I deteft thefe noxious liquors, 
 and never drank of them, this attraction re- 
 tained them a little, and the impreffion which 
 they made on my cafks was'not deadly. 
 
 I conjedured that the wood near which I 
 had placed my camp, would furniih me with 
 
 L 4 fome 
 
152 TRAVELS IN 
 
 fome touracos. As I was not acquainted with 
 thefe birds, and had never feen one of them, I 
 went in fearch of them, and was lucky enough 
 to difcover a few. I fpent a long time in 
 purfuing them, but without effed ; for as thefe 
 birds perch always on the extremities of the 
 higheft branches, I never found them within 
 the reach of my fufee. One afternoon 
 however, I followed one, and did more exe- 
 cution. Hopping from fpray to fpray, ftill 
 going only a little way from me, it deceived 
 me for more than an hour, and conducted me 
 to a great diftance ; till being out of patience 
 with its fport, and finding that I could not 
 approach it, I fired, though I concluded it to 
 be out of my reach, and had the fatisfadion 
 of feeing it drop. My joy on this occafion 
 was inexpreffible : but the moft difficult part 
 was not yet accompliihed ; it was neceflary 
 for me to feize my prey ; and, as I had remark- 
 ed the place where it fell, I rufhed through the 
 bufhes to take it up, at the expence of having 
 my legs and hands torn, and all covered with 
 blood. When I reached the fpot, I faw no- 
 thing ; and though I carefully fearched every 
 where around, going backwards and forwards 
 twenty times over the fame places, clofely 
 
 examining 
 
AFRICA. 153 
 
 examining the fmalleft holes and crevices, my 
 labour was fruitlefs, for I could not find my 
 touraco. My refearches and refledlions led 
 me to think that I had perhaps broken only 
 one of its wings, which had not prevented it 
 to get away from the fpot where it had fal- 
 len. Full of this idea, I went a little farther, 
 and began again to fearch all the environs for 
 more than half an hour ; but ftill no touraco. 
 This difappointment reduced me almoft to a 
 ftate of defpair ; and the thick bufhes and 
 prickly fhrubs, which fcratched even my face, 
 had really agitated me with tranfports difficult 
 to be defer ibed. To fatiate my anger, I am 
 fenfible that nothing lefs would have been 
 fufficient at that moment than to purfue a lion 
 or a tiger. That a paltry bird, which I had 
 brought down after fo many difficulties, and fo 
 much defire for it, fhouldefcape and thus vanifh 
 from my fight, was truly diftreffing. Un- 
 able to contain my paffion, I began to ftamp, 
 and to beat the ground with m.y fufee ; but the 
 earth finking fuddenly below me, I difappeared 
 alfo, and fell with my arms into a pit twelve 
 feet in depth. My aftonifhment, and the 
 hurt I received by my fall, foon made me for- 
 get my anger ; and I found myfelf at the bot- 
 tom 
 
154 TRAVELS IN 
 
 torn of one of thofe covered fnares which the 
 Hottentots employ to catch ferocious animals, 
 particularly elephants. When I recovered 
 from my furprize, I began to confider how I 
 fliould extricate myfelf from this embarraff- 
 ment, extremely happy that I had not been 
 impaled on the fharp-pointed ftake placed in 
 the bottom of the pit, and ftill happier that I 
 found in it no company. I was however 
 apprehenfive that fome might arrive every mo- 
 ment ; efpecially if I fhould be obliged to re- 
 main there during the night. Its approach 
 began to fill me with great terror ; as it oppofed 
 and retarded the only refource I had devifed 
 to fave myfelf from the fatal pit, without the 
 affiftance of others. This refource was to dig 
 away the earth on one fide with my fabre and 
 my hands, in order to form a kind of fteps ; 
 but as fuch an operation might be very tedious, 
 I formed, though under the moft difmal per- 
 plexity, the wifcr refolution of loading my 
 fufee, and of firing fhot after fhot in hopes 
 that I might be heard at my camp. I from 
 time to time liftened with the utmoft anxiety, 
 and a palpitating heart ; and at length had the 
 fatisfavllion of hearing two reports, which in- 
 ipired me with the utmoft joy. I then con- 
 tinued 
 
AFRICA, 155 
 
 tinned to fire by intervals, to dire£l thofe who 
 had anfwered me which way to purfue their 
 courfe ; and foon after I faw them arrive, all 
 completely armed, but full of trouble and un- 
 eafmefs. They had imagined that I was purfued 
 by fome ferocious animal ; but they faw me on 
 the contrary, in the moll pitiful fituation, and 
 caught foolifhly like a fox. Their alarm, how- 
 ever, was foon dlflipated ; they immediately cut 
 a long pole, which they let down to me ; and 
 by means of this expedient I glided up in the 
 beft manner I could, and reached the brink 
 of the pit. This trifling accident, from which 
 heaven would not have faved me as it faved 
 young Daniel, did not make me forget my 
 touraco. With my dogs, which had follow- 
 ed my Hottentots, I trufted I fliould be able 
 to difcover it, in whatever place it might be 
 concealed : fending them out, therefore, on the 
 fearch, they found it fquatted down under a 
 tufted bufh. I inftantly laid my hands upon 
 it ; and the pleafure of at length pofTefling 
 this charming animal, foon obliterated from 
 my mind the dangers and embarraffment it 
 had coft me. 
 
 I afterwards procured as many of them as I 
 wilhed : I even caught them all alive ; for 
 
 having 
 
156 TRAVELS IN 
 
 •having remarked, in the ftomach of this one, 
 the fruits on which they principally feed, I 
 always had recourfe to the trees which pro- 
 duced thefe fruits, whether I wiihed to fire or 
 to lay fnares for them. 
 
 This bird, as agreeable by its form as by 
 its colour and notes, which are very diftind:, 
 unites nimblenefs to elegance ; all its motions 
 are lafcivious, and its attitudes full of grace. 
 Its colour is a bright grafs green ; a beautiful 
 tuft of the fame colour, bordered with white, 
 ornaments its head ; its eyes, which are of a 
 lively red, are crowned with eyebrows of a daz- 
 zling white ; and its wings are of the moft 
 beautiful purple, which changes to a violet, 
 according to the attitudes it affumes, or the 
 point of view under which it is feen. 
 
 Naturalifts have very improperly claffed this 
 bird among the cuckows, with which it has 
 no relation whatever. The cuckow, in every 
 country of the world, is a bird that feeds only 
 on caterpillars, infeds, &c. but the touraco 
 feeds, on fruits. 
 
 The cuckov/, in every climate, never lays 
 but in the nefts of other birds : which, by 
 thefe means, flie loads with the burden of 
 hatching her young : the touraco, more affec- 
 tionate 
 
AFRICA. X57 
 
 tionate and more careful of its family, con- 
 ftru6ts its own neft, where it lays eggs and 
 hatches them itfelf. 
 
 Thefe two charaders are fufficient to form 
 a fpecies entirely diftin£t from the cuckow ; 
 but I fhall refume this fubjeit, and enlarge 
 upon it, in my ornithology. 
 
 In thofe intervals when the heavy rains or 
 exceflive heats feemed to compel me not to go 
 abroad, which was however very rare, I did 
 not, on that account, fpend my time in indo-^ 
 lence. I employed myfelf, in my tent, in 
 making fnares to catch animals alive, of every 
 fpecies. It will hardly be believed that I in- 
 vented a method of procuring them v/ith my 
 fufee, more entire and in much better condi- 
 tion than thofe which I caught in my fnares : 
 it was in this manner, however, that I pro- 
 cured the fmallefl: and moft delicate birds. 
 
 It is highly neceflary that every naturalift 
 who labours himfelf in forming a collediion, 
 fhould be acquainted with the method which I 
 invented. This expreffion is not too bold ; my 
 idea is abfolutely new, for I never heard that 
 any perfon ever thought of it before me. 
 
 The manner in which I proceeded was as fol- 
 lows ; I put a fmaller or larger quantity of pow- 
 der 
 
158 TRAVELS IN 
 
 der into my fufee, according as circumftances 
 might require. Immediately above the powder 
 I placed the end of a candle about an inch in 
 thicknefs, ramming it well down ; after which 
 I filled the barrel with water up to the mouths 
 By thefe means, at the proper diftance, when I 
 fired at a bird, I only ftunned it, by watering 
 and nioiflening its feathers ; and, as I inftantly 
 laid hold of it, no time was left for it to fpoil 
 its plumage by fluttering. The water, impelled 
 by the powder, went directly to the mark ; but 
 the piece of tallow, being lighter than the water, 
 did not reach fo far. In my firft attempts it 
 often happened, that having fometimes fired 
 too near, or put too much powder, or too thick 
 a piece of candle, I found the latter entire in 
 the animal's belly ; but after a Ihort appren- 
 ticefhip I made no more miftakes, and never 
 miffed my aim. I have often let my fufee re- 
 main charged in this manner from morning 
 till night ; yet the powder w^as never damaged, 
 nor did the piece go off lefs readily. It may 
 be eafily gueffed that I never fired horizon* 
 tally in this manner. 
 
 One day, after my return to Europe, be- 
 ing at the houfe of a friend, I happened to 
 m,ention before fome ftraneers this method 
 I which 
 
AFRICA. 
 
 ^95 
 
 which I have defcribed. One of them, \;V'ho 
 durft not flatly contradid me, or openly avow 
 his incredulity, endeavoured to prove to the 
 reft, by very clear arguments, that my affer- 
 tion was at leaft exaggerated. Whilft they 
 were difputing, I retired without being peiv 
 ceived by the company ; and having prepared a 
 fufee according to my own manner, I returned 
 through the garden to the window, where thefe 
 gentlemen were continuing their difpute. 
 Pointing with my finger to a little bird perched 
 near them, I took aim and fired at it, upon 
 which it fell. I immediately feized it ; and^ 
 delivering it alive into the hands of my antago- 
 nift, put an end to all his fine reafoning* 
 
 Towards the end of the month we were 
 much impeded by new rains, which continued 
 a long time, and almoft without intermiffion. 
 Thefe ftorms fucceeded each other with o-reat 
 rapidity j the lightuing fell feveral times in the 
 foreft near us ; the water gained upon us on 
 all fides ; and, to add to the difagreeablenefs of 
 our fituation, our camp was in one night en- 
 tirely overflown : we therefore quitted the 
 wood, and went to eftablifh ourfelves on fome 
 higher fpot in the open country. I now faw,. 
 with the utmoft uneafinefs, that it would be 
 
 impofTible 
 
i6o TRAVELS IN 
 
 impoffible for us to get out of this place in 
 ■which we were furrounded : thofefmall rivulets, 
 which had before appeared to us fo pleafant 
 and agreeable, were changed into furious tor- 
 rents, which carried fand, trees, and fragments 
 of rock along with them. I was fenfible that 
 unlefs I expofed myfelf to the greateft dangers, 
 it would be impracticable to crofs them. On the 
 other hand my oxen, harafled and chilled with 
 cold, had deferted my camp ; nor did I know 
 how or which way to fend after them to catch 
 them. My fituatlon was far from being com- 
 fortable ; and I pafled many moments in great 
 dejection. My poor Hottentots, fatigued and 
 (ick, began already to murmur. We had no 
 more provifions, and no more game : what we 
 killed was fcarcely fuiEcient for our fubfijftence; 
 becaufe, confined by the torrent, which in- 
 creafed more and more every day, we had not 
 even the refource of our neighbours to obtain 
 afiiftance. How afflicting our condition with 
 fuch preparation ! One might have faid that 
 an univerfal deluge was about to inundate 
 Africa. I however kept part of my apprehen- 
 {ions to myfelf; vs^hilft I beheld my fad compa- 
 nions caft their reftlefs looks towards me, and 
 atteft by their filence what fears they enter- 
 tained 
 
AFRICA. i6i 
 
 tained for themfelves. Never did a profpedt 
 appear under more gloomy colours: our 
 charming walks, laid wafte by the waters, 
 were in an inftant ravaged ; and thofe delight- 
 ful gardens were changed into a difmal and 
 inhofpitable defart. In this diftrefs, colleding 
 all my forces, I entreated my fri&nds to fearch, 
 at lead, for our loft and difperfed oxen ; and to 
 refolve to crofs one of the torrents, whatever 
 might be the confequence. By the ftrangeft 
 caprice of fortune, the fatal event which threat- 
 ened us with fudden deftrucStion, was in part 
 the occafion of our fafety. One of my Hot- 
 tentots, in fearching for a paffage, perceived 
 in the middle of the water a buffalo, which 
 had probably been drowned the evening be- 
 fore, for it was ftill very frefli : on this dif- 
 covery he came, with fhouts of joy, to convey 
 us the agreeable intelligence ; and nothing in- 
 deed could have arrived more feafonably. We 
 drew the animal to the fhore, not without 
 confiderable danger ; cut it to pieces on the 
 fpot ; and, having carried away the foundefl 
 parts, left the reft to my dogs, which, having 
 fafted a long time, found great relief in this 
 refrefhment. We faw them return from their 
 repaft with their bellies fo full that they could 
 Vol. I, M fcarcely 
 
i62 TRAVELS IN 
 
 fcarcely walk. I cannot help mentioning 
 another circumftance, as it will tend to con- 
 vey a ftill better idea of the dreadful fituation 
 to which we were reduced. Thefe dogs, 
 which were now like walking fkeletons, watch- 
 ing our motions, followed clofely at our heels 
 whenever any of us retired to eafe the wants 
 of nature ; and I have feen them fight def- 
 perately with one another for this difgufting 
 nourifhment. 
 
 Nothing in this life is durable; and a period 
 IS alloted to misfortunes as well as to felicity* 
 The end of March brought a change in the 
 weather ; the rains became lefs frequent, the 
 torrents decreafed ; and I difpatched four Hot- 
 tentots in queft of my oxen, which they 
 brought almoft all back, after an abfence of 
 four days. Some of them had returned the 
 way we came, and had even repafled the large 
 brackifh river; others had taken flicker in 
 different plantations, and fome had fhifted for 
 themfelves in the beft mxanner they could. — 
 four of them, however, were miffing, which 
 my people could not find, nor did I *ever after- 
 wards hear any accounts of them. Without 
 delay I prepared to quit this inhofpitable coun- 
 try, and to tranfport my camp three leagues^ 
 
 farther. 
 
AFRICA. 163 
 
 faither, to a hill named Pafnpoen-KraaL I 
 took advantage of two days of fine weather to 
 dry my efFeds, great part of which were moift 
 and half rotten ; and the fkin of the buffalo 
 which we had flayed, fervcd to renew the 
 traces of my waggons and carriages, which 
 the moifture had rendered unfit for fervice. 
 Notwithftanding thefe continual rains, and my 
 cruel difappointments, I was ftill capable of 
 making fome efforts. I had found in the 
 woods an old tree, the trunk of which was 
 hollow ; and I went thither with my fufee 
 almoft every day, to watch for fuch fmall birds 
 or game as might appear. I was there fhel- 
 tered at leaft from the rain, and I fupported 
 my courage with hope. From this facred niche 
 I brought down, without mercy, every thing 
 that prefented itfelf before me. Thus the fludy 
 of Nature engaged my attention, in preference 
 to more preffing wants. Continually inflamed 
 with the powerful defire of robbing her of her 
 treafures, I was dying with hunger, and yet 
 thought of my collections. In fpite of all ob- 
 ftacles I faw my riches gradually increafe : I 
 had acquired a fmall colledion of rare ob- 
 jedls entirely unknown in Europe, which I 
 expofed to the air ; and I found that they 
 
 M 2 were 
 
TRAVELS lU 
 
 were not fo much damaged by the moifture 
 as the reft of my eiGfeds. In this wood we 
 found no game but the bofbock antelope, and 
 a fmaller fpecies, of which I have already 
 fpoken. On the plain, befides the three 
 fpecies of partridges above-mentioned, we 
 obferved another called the red pheafant^ be- 
 caufe its feet and the naked fkin of its throat 
 are of that colour. Of carnivorous animals 
 we faw tigers and hysenas, but not a fingle 
 lion. 
 
 The heavens became every day more and 
 more ferene, and feemed to prefage that our 
 fituation would foon be as happy as it had 
 been miferable and gloomy. The hill of Pam- 
 poen-Kraal, on which I had placed my camp, 
 pleafed me much. Not far from my tent 
 flood a fmall eminence, crowned by a thicket 
 of thirty or thirty-five feet in diameter. The 
 trees and fhrubs of which it was compofed, in 
 ^ growing had fo interwoven their branches, 
 that the whole appeared as one very thick and 
 bufliy body. Having imagined that I might 
 convert it into a little palace, I ordered a path 
 to be traced out to its centre, and the branches 
 to be lopped off on each fide to the height of 
 a man, fo as to afford an eafy paffage. In the 
 
 middle 
 
AFRICA. 165 
 
 middle of the thicket, by the force of labour 
 and employing the hatchet, we were able to 
 cut out two chambers perfectly fquare ; in one 
 of which I placed my table and my chair : this 
 was my ftudy. The fecond I ornamented 
 with my kitchen utenfils: but this did not 
 prevent me from ufing it at the fame time as 
 a dining room. Thefe two apartments, natu- 
 rally covered with branches and leaves im- 
 penetrably thick, afforded me a delightful and 
 cool retreat, when haraffed and covered with 
 fweat and duft, after my hunting excurfion in 
 the morning, I retired from the heat of the 
 day, and the fcorching rays of the fun. When 
 fatigue had fharpened my appetite, what de- 
 yghtful repafts ! when fleep ftole upon me, 
 what voluptuous and gentle repofe ! — Ye fump- 
 tuous grottoes of our financiers ! ye Englifli 
 gardens twenty times changed with the wealth 
 of the citizen ! why do your jftreams, your caC- 
 cades, your pretty ferpentine walks, your 
 broken bridges, your ruins, your marbles, and 
 all your fine inventions, difguft the tafte and 
 fatigue the eye, when we know the verdant 
 and natural bower of the Pampoen-Kraal ? 
 
 Whatever it coft me to abandon this amia- 
 He folitude, I was however obliged to think 
 
 M 3 of 
 
i66 TRAVELS IN 
 
 of departing. One day having traverfed the 
 whole neighbourhood, to difcpver what route 
 I ought to purfue, in order to travel with 
 the greateft eafe and fafety, I found, at the 
 diftance of a league from my camp, a very 
 rapid torrent, named Kay man s Hole ; but I 
 know not for what reafon, as in all this 
 country I never obferved either a kayman or 
 a crocodile. This torrent flowed from twq 
 mountains not very high, but exceffively fteep : 
 on my right I had the fea, at the diftance of 
 about a thoufand paces ; and on my left 
 mountains and woods, which it was impoflible 
 for me to pafs with my cattle and carriages : 
 no other refource therefore remained for me, 
 but to crofs the dangerous Kayman's Hole. 
 On this account I was very imeafy, and even 
 vexed. Let the reader imagine to himfelf my 
 fituation- — flopped thus at every ftep ; and, 
 "when one obftacle was overcome, feeing new 
 ones ftill rife before me, while I was fully fenfi- 
 ble of the neceflTity of penetrating farther. The 
 torrent appeared to me too much fwelled, 
 and too rapid, to attempt to crofs it. I was, 
 above all, afraid for my oxen ; and rafts could 
 only have been employed in tranfporting my 
 cffefts. I was therefore obliged to arm my« 
 
 ftlf 
 
AFRICA, 167 
 
 felf with patience and to wait a more favour- 
 able opportunity. 
 
 On the 1 8th of April I received an expref^ 
 from Mr. Mulder, who, having returned from 
 the Cape, conveyed to me fome letters which 
 he had brought along with him, and which 
 were in anfwer to thofe I had entrufted to his 
 care in the beginning of February. I found 
 that my friends were very uneafy for my fate, 
 and wifhed me to return. Others exhorted me 
 to perfevere ; and, fitting at eafe by their fire 
 fides, gave themfelves little trouble concerning 
 obftacles, provided my journey could prove of 
 utility to fcience; or, without going fo far, fup- 
 ply food for their curiofity, in fables related 
 after their manner. I found each of them in- 
 terefted according to his particular views : but 
 I refolved to follow my original plan. It may 
 be eafily imagined hovvT much the bad feafon 
 had retarded my progrefs, fince I had fcarcely 
 travelled eight leagues during the time which 
 Mr. Mulder employed in his journey to the 
 Cape. In a letter which this gentleman wrote 
 to me, he appointed a place of meeting, and 
 propofed that we fliould amufe ourfelves a few 
 days with fifhing on the fea fliore, if fuch 
 Qt excurfion would not derange me : he pro- 
 
 M 4 mifed 
 
x68 TRAVELS IN 
 
 mifed to bring with him nets, and every thing 
 neceffary for our fpending a week together on 
 the coaft 5 and he Hkewife informed me that 
 his wife would be one of the party. This 
 propofal gave me great pleafure ; and, foon 
 after the arrival of the meflenger, Mr. and 
 Mrs. Mulder made their appearance, accom- 
 panied by an officer next under Mr, Mulder 
 in command. One might have compared 
 them to fo many patriarchs on a journey. 
 The latter on the bow of his faddle, over his 
 piftols, carried a young child four months old, 
 which was fuckled by his wife. They were 
 all four on horfeback. His carriage, with his 
 nets and baggage, had gone to wait for us 
 on the fea fhore. Having ordered one of 
 mine to be got ready alfo, I loaded it with 
 my tent, one or two empty calks, and every 
 thing that I conceived would be ufeful to us 
 for our miraculous fiihing. When we reached 
 the fhore, after a few compliments and the 
 ufual ceremonies, we caft our nets feveral times 
 into the water, but always in vain; we fcarcely 
 caught any thing : and this exercife afforded 
 amufement to nobody. Refolving, therefore, 
 to proceed a little further, to a fmall lake 
 formed by the tide, where we hoped to he 
 
 more 
 
AFRICA. 169 
 
 xnore fuccefsful, we began to march forwards ; 
 but as I was much lefs curious in fifhes than 
 in birds, I fhould have been foon tired of our 
 fport, had not the politenefs of my friends, 
 and the opea and eafy gaiety of the ladies, 
 engaged a little of my attention. I however 
 rambled a good deal about on foot, from one 
 fide to another, exploring every part around 
 with eager eyes, and not fuffering either the air, 
 the roads, or the trees to efcape me. Having ar- 
 rived at the borders of the lake, I fought for 
 a commodious fpot where I might eredl my 
 tents : but an alarm, which we little thought 
 of, had nearly deranged all our grotefque ca-? 
 valcade. In croffing a fpot covered with very 
 high and thick reeds, the workmen all of a 
 fudden came upon a buffalo, which had lain 
 down there to reft. They were fo near, that 
 the animal, as much frightened as they by this 
 unexpected apparition, in retiring threw down, 
 the horfe of the under commander, and that 
 of his wife. The confternation no\v became 
 general ; every one endeavoured to fly, and 
 to make off as faft as poffible. Mr. Mulder's 
 people, who were not much accuftomed to 
 buffaloes, being nearer the water, plunged 
 ^nto it up to the neck. Mine, better trained to 
 
 hunting 
 
 5> 
 
1-70 TRAVELS I 
 
 J 
 
 hunting, affumed a bold look; but the animal, 
 feared by the fight of fo many people on all 
 fides, and not knowing where to fly, remained 
 motionlefs, polled againft an enormous rock. 
 On hearing the noife, I immediately ran up ; 
 but unluckily I had no other arms except my 
 .double-barrelled fufee. It was not to be fup- 
 pofed that an ordinary ball would kill a buf- 
 fiilo. I ho-wever ventured to approach him, 
 and to fire. As foon as I had difcharged my 
 piece he quitted his pofition, and in a furious 
 manner came ilraight towards me ; but a 
 fecond ball, which hit him, infl:antly damped 
 his courage : he turned round, and paffing 
 near one of my oxen, which carried our 
 kitchen apparatus, difcharged all his fu- 
 ry on this peaceful animal, gave it two 
 blows in the belly with his horns, and foon 
 difappeared, I could not prevail upon the 
 company to remain longer in this place. 
 The hufbands feared much for their wives ; 
 and as I judged by their difordered looks that 
 they were really affeded by their tender alarms, 
 I advifed them to return to our firft fifhing 
 place on the fea fhore. In our fecond attempt: 
 fortune became more favourable ; and we had 
 the fatisfadion of catching fo great a quantity 
 
 5 
 
AFRICA, 171 
 
 of fifli, that I ordered feme of them to be 
 faked, and to be packed into my cafks, whilft 
 Mr. Mulder imitated my example. This fport, 
 which continued eight whole days, and the 
 occupations which it gave us, amufed us indeed 
 much more than I had expected. From time 
 to time I abfented myfelf for a little, and I 
 killed fever al rare birds ; but I was not under the 
 neceffity of contending with a fecond buffalo. 
 When we falted all our fifh, we divided our 
 provifion, and took leave of one another : but 
 I confefs that I could not leave thefe worthy 
 people without regret ; for they had enlivened 
 our little excurfion with a good humour fo 
 natural, fo fimple, and fo mild. With my 
 eyes I followed their little caravan ; and I did 
 not depart until I had entirely^ loft fight of 
 them. 
 
 When I returned to my camp, I found 
 every thing in order ; my cattle properly taken 
 care of, and my people employed on their 
 duty, for which I teftified to them my fatif- 
 
 I committed to the care of Mr. Mulder all 
 the animals I had preferved fmce I difpatched 
 my laft cargo, as well as the living touracos 
 I had caught in Hiares ; which he promifed 
 
 to 
 
172 TRAVELS IN 
 
 to tranfmit to Mr. Boers at the Cape. He had 
 alfo the complailance to give me one of his 
 nets, and to fend me a pair of wheels which 
 I afked from him. As my cart was very in- 
 convenient, and always in danger of being 
 overturned, I rcfblved to mount it in the 
 fame manner as the reft of my carriages. — 
 This being a work of great neceflity, we fot 
 about it immediately ; and every one took a 
 fhare in the labour. The timber requifite for 
 this operation was foon cut out ; and in lefs 
 than a fortnight our cart, transformed into 
 a waggon, rolled upon four wheels. It did not 
 indeed in its conftrudiion difplay the hand of a 
 matter ; but it anfwered my purpofe as well ; 
 and I muft obferve that the whole fortnight 
 was not employed in altering it. When I 
 perceived that it went well, and that my cart- 
 wrights would acquire honour by it, I fent 
 a detachment of my people to the neighbour^ 
 hood of the torrent, which we were about to 
 pafs, with orders to iill up the fiiTures, and re- 
 pair the highways which the waters had fpoilt. 
 I made them carry ftones and large branches 
 of trees with them, to render the quagmires 
 paflable; which, without this precaution, might 
 have disjointed, and evenbrokenj niy carriages. 
 
 Whea 
 
AFRICA. 173 
 
 When by the force of excefiive labour we had 
 fmoothed every pafs, on the 30th of April I 
 caufed my caravan to file off before me ; and 
 calling my eye, for the laft time, on the de- 
 lightful hermitage of Pampoen-Kraal, quitted, 
 it with the fame regret as that with which a 
 lover feparates from his miftrefs. I often after- 
 wards enquired refpeding this happy afylum ; 
 and I had the fatisfadion of learning that it 
 had not only been refpefted, but that the Hot- 
 tentots had named it after me. 
 
 Notwithftanding all my precaution, w^e 
 found great difficulty at Kay man s Hole^ as 
 well as at a river called by the Hottentots in 
 their language Krakede-Kaii^ which fignifies 
 the girls for d» This country was formerly 
 inhabited by Hottentots, who are all now 
 extindt or difperfed : the deep pits which arc 
 to be feen at certain diftances, indicate that 
 they were hunters ; and that they caught in 
 their fnares buffaloes and elephants : but thefe 
 animals are never or rarely now ktw in this 
 canton. 
 
 After a journey of eight hours, we arrived 
 near the Swart e Rivier^ or Black River : as it 
 was ftill fwelled by the rains, we were obliged 
 to pafs it on rafts, which we conftruded in 
 
 the 
 
174 TRAVELS IN 
 
 the fame manner as before. Th^ frefli traces 
 of buffaloes which we obferved on the other 
 fide made us remain here fome time : and I 
 at length had the pleafure of killing one ; a 
 Hottentot I carried along with me, killed alfo 
 another. I was fo pleafed with my fuccefs, 
 that I inftantly returned to my camp, to an- 
 nounce this agreeable intelligence, which pro- 
 mifed a fupply of provifion to my people for a 
 long time, in cafe we ihould be reduced to dif- 
 trefs. As w^e had killed thefe two animals on 
 the banks of the river, above the place where 
 I had fettled, I ordered them to be puihed into 
 the ftream, which conveyed them oppofite 
 to my tent, where they were cut up : and I 
 defired them to be cut into very fmall pieces, 
 that they might be more eafily faked, and 
 expofed afterwards to the air and the fun. 
 Our waggons, as well as the bufhes and trees 
 that furrounded us, were all loaded with bloody 
 fragments of our buffaloes ; but on a fudden, 
 in the midft of our operation, and while we 
 were not expecting it, we found ourfelves at- 
 tacked by flights of kites and vultures ; which, 
 without any fear, perched among us. The 
 kites, above all, were the mofl impudent. 
 They rapacioufly feized upon the morfels of 
 
 flefh, 
 
AFRICA. 175 
 
 flefh, and even contended furioufly with my 
 people. When they had each carried away a 
 pretty large piece, they retired to fome branch, 
 at the diftance of ten paces from us, and de- 
 voured it before our eyes. Though we fired 
 our fufees, they were not frightened, but re- 
 turned inceflantly to the charge j fo that, find- 
 ing that I wafted my powder in vain, we 
 refolved to difperfe them, and drive them a- 
 way with large poles, until our provifions 
 fhould be quite dry. This manoeuvre, which 
 for a long time haraffed my people, did not 
 prevent us from being plundered without 
 mercy ; but, had we not employed it, nothing 
 abfolutely would have remained of our twa 
 buffaloes. 
 
 The tongues I ordered to befmoked; and I 
 never omitted to purfue the fame method with 
 thofe of all the animals I afterwards killed. 
 This was a great delicacy ; and a refource 
 for me when our provifions fell fhort. When 
 I wiihed to indulge in fenfuality, or to awaken 
 my appetite, I added a fmall plateful of it to 
 my ufual allowance. There were none but 
 the tongues of elephants which I did not wifh 
 to preferve In this manner : their tafte, and 
 even their figure, always occafioned a difguft^ 
 
 which 
 
176 TRAVELS IN 
 
 which I could never overcome, and which It 
 would be very difficult to account for. 
 . When our provifions were prepared and 
 packed up, we quitted the Black River ; and 
 having crofled the Goticom^ two leagues thence, 
 we reached the Nyfena^ after travelling two 
 leagues more. The latter is a confiderable 
 ftream, and was ftill fwelled by the tide. — * 
 Hitherto I had found no fpot more agreeable for 
 fixing my camp. Here I had a moft delightful 
 meadow of about a thoufand feet fquare ; a 
 forefl: of tall trees formed a magnificent fhelter 
 on the fouth, extending circularly tov/ards the 
 eaft ; on the north I had before me the river, 
 which appeared to be very abundant in fifh ; 
 and a variety of fmall game fwarmed on its 
 banks. So many advantages might have al- 
 moft made me forget Pampoen-Kraal ; but all 
 its attractions could not tempt me to flop. 
 Agitated by a fecret uneafmefs, I faw on the other 
 fide of the river a difficult mountain, which 
 it was neceffary for us to pafs. It was fo prodi- 
 gioufly fteep, that I apprehended fome accident 
 would befal me ; for an internal foreboding 
 feem^ed ftrongly to announce it. I had indeed 
 almoil loft, in one momei^t, whe whole fruits of 
 ir.Y labours, and of my incredible fatigues. I 
 
 had 
 
AFRICA. 
 
 177 
 
 had taken the prudent precaution to condudl 
 my waggons one after the other ; for, had I at- 
 tempted to make them mount altogether, I 
 fhould not have had oxen enough to draw 
 them. I ordered twenty to be yoked to my 
 majier waggo?i ; which, as I have already faid, 
 carried all my artillery and my principal riches. 
 My oxen fet out ; and, by climbing with great 
 exertion, had almoft reached the fummit ; but 
 the chain which kept the firft eighteen to- 
 gether breaking all of a fudden, the waggon 
 rolled down v/ith great precipitation to the bot- 
 tom of the mountain, carrying with it the two 
 oxen yoked to the pole. From the eminence 
 on which we ftood, my condudors and I fol- 
 lowed it with our eyes, almoft petrified with 
 fear, and in the moft dreadful agitation.-^ 
 Twenty times did we fee it ready to fall over 
 the precipice that bordered the way : and this 
 misfortune would have infallibly taken place, 
 had it not been for the fuperior ftrength of the 
 two oxen attached to the pole, which nothing 
 could overcome. This accident, had it hap- 
 pened, muft have entirely fufpended myjour.- 
 ney. My carriage, and my moft valuable 
 effeds, would have been daflied to pieces ; 
 my powder, my Ihot, and my arms would 
 Vol. I. N have 
 
178 TRAVELS IN 
 
 have be$n fcattered : and I fhould have been 
 entirely ruined withoubthe lead refource. The 
 waggon was, however, flopped by a rock on 
 the banks of the torrent, We defcended with 
 fhouts of joy ; and having collected my effefts, 
 and put every thing in its proper place, we 
 again yoked the oxen to this fatal carriage 5 
 which, without danger, regained in an hour 
 what it had loft in ten minutes. The reft, 
 being not quite fo heavy, arrived in perfect 
 fafety. I had ordered the traces to be doubled, 
 and four men to efcort the wheels, all ready 
 to put their hands to the fpokes on the leaft 
 jolt. The road however was fo fteep, that' this 
 would not have prevented a fall ; but it wouid 
 have diminiflied the rapidity of it, and given 
 us time to dired: the carriage in fuch a maur 
 ner, as beft to avoid the dreadful precipice^ 
 
 Fear is a magnifying glafs which always 
 enlarges objefts. Mine had announced fome 
 thing very unlucky. In vain jQiould I attempt 
 to paint my looks, and the agitation of my 
 mind, in this diftreffing moment. I involun- 
 tarily followed all the motions of the waggon j^ 
 and feemed to fet it right by thofe of my body, 
 and by the geftures of my arms. Each jolt 
 penetrated to the bottom of my heart. 
 
 I however 
 
AFRICA. 179 
 
 I however found that our lofs was not fo 
 great as I expefted, I might almoft fay in- 
 deed that a miracle was operated in my favour; 
 and I perceived that the god of the fatal tri- 
 dent did not always purfue me, I not only 
 found that my carriage had efcaped without 
 much damage, but the fliocks it fuftained 
 had not materially deranged what it contained. 
 My oxen, which were dragged backwards by 
 a waggon that weighed nearly two tons, and 
 which might have been daihed to pieces before 
 they arrived at the bottom of the mountain, 
 efcaped with only a few dangerous wounds, 
 v/hich did not prevent them from continuing 
 their labour. It muft be confeffed that our 
 misfortune, allowing for time loft, was not 
 very great ; though we had every reafon tp 
 fear for the future. 
 
 In proportion as I got at a dlftance from 
 the plantations, and advanced into the country, 
 every thing in my eyes aflumed a new appearr^ 
 ance. The profpedls became more magni- 
 ficent ; the foil feemed to be more fruitful and 
 rich ; nature appeared to be more majeftic and 
 grand ; and the lofty mountains prefented, on 
 all fides, more charming and delightful pomts 
 ^f view, than I had ever met with, Thefe 
 
 N 2 fcenes, 
 
i8o TRAVELS IN 
 
 fcenes, contrafted with the dry and parched 
 fields of the Cape, made me believe that I 
 was more than a thoufand leagues from it. 
 '' What !" faid I, in my extacy, " fhall thefe 
 " fuperb regions be eternally inhabited by 
 ^' tigers and lions ? What fpeculator, with 
 *' the fordid view only of eftablifhing a kind 
 " of centre for commerce, could have preferred 
 *' the ftormy Table Bay to the numberlefs 
 *^ roads, and natural and commodious harbours, 
 ^' v^hich are to be found on the eaftern coafts 
 ^' of Africa ?" 
 
 Thus was I refleding within myfelf, whilft 
 I was climbing the mountain on foot, and 
 forming vain wiihes for the conqueft of this 
 beautiful country, which the indolent policy 
 of the European nations will perhaps nQVtx 
 gratify. 
 
 We ftill continued to -advance, having al- 
 ways to the weft that great chain of moun- 
 tains, covered with wood, which we had be- 
 fore perceived at a great diftance. After 
 travelling four hours and a half, I halted 
 at a fmall rivulet about three leagues diftant 
 from the fea. Here we obferved a prodigious 
 quantity of fifh floating up with the tide ; and 
 as foon as I faw them in a ftate of ftagnation^ 
 
 I orderecj 
 
AFRICA. i8i 
 
 I ordered the net which I had received from 
 Mr. Mulder to be extended acrofs the ftrearo. 
 This was the firft time I employed it ; and, 
 as it Vv^as too long, I found it neceflary to 
 have it doubled. Were I to mention the 
 number of liih which remained when the tide 
 ebbed, I fhould be confidered as an extrava- 
 gant exaggerator : I fhall only fay that the net 
 fuffered confiderably. My people cooked thefe 
 iilh with a variety of fauces : as for me, I re- 
 ferved about an hundred for rnyfelf, which^ 
 with different fpices, I put into a kettle with- 
 out any v/ater ; and having hermetically fealed 
 ' the coverlid with a kind of vifcous earthj I 
 buried the whole under hot afhes. By 
 this arrangement I procured an excellent 
 difh of fifh, with which I could fcarcely be 
 fatiated ; and which lafted me for feveral 
 days* 
 
 One could not choofe a more agreea- 
 ble and advantageous fpot, than that upon 
 which I then was, for eftablifhing a thriv- 
 ing colony. The fea advances through 
 an opening of about a thoufand paces in 
 breadth, and penetrates into the country to 
 the diftance of more than tv/o leagues and a 
 half. The bafon which it forms is more than 
 
 N 3 a league 
 
' i82 TRAVELS IN 
 
 a league in extent ; and the whole coaft, both 
 on the right and the left, is bordered with 
 rocks, which intercept all commtinication with 
 it. The land, which is rich and fertile, is 
 watered by limpid and refrefhing ftreamSj 
 that flow down on all fides from the eaftern 
 mountains. Thefe mountains, crowned with 
 majeftic woods, extend as far as the bafon, 
 winding round with a number of finuofities ; 
 which exhibit an hundred groves, naturally 
 variegated, and each more agreeable than the 
 other. In this fpot I found a great many 
 fmall white herons, of the fame fpecies as thofe 
 fent from Cayenne, and which I had often 
 feen, when young, in Surinam. I difcovered 
 alfo the large egret *, but it was here more 
 rare. 
 
 The woods furnifh fmall game In abun- 
 dance : buffaloes, and fometimes elephants, are 
 alfo found in them. Two or three houfes, the 
 inhabitants of which have no other employ- 
 ment but to carry on a dull and laborious 
 trade in wood and butter with the Cape, are 
 feen here ; but fcattered at a very great dif- 
 tance from each other. 
 
 * A fpecies of the heron. 
 
AFRICA. 183 
 
 In this beautiful country I remained till the 
 13th. We then crofled, by very difagreeable 
 roads, a foreft named Le Poort ; and, after tra- 
 velling feven hours more, reached the river 
 Witte Dreft. In feveral places I obferved a 
 few more habitations, no lefs miferable and 
 wretched than the former ; for the diftance, the 
 dangers of the journey, and other obftacles 
 invincible to thefe poor people, do not permit 
 them, except very rarely, to drive a few oxea 
 to the Cape ; and, even when they arrive there^ 
 they are in a bad condition ; and on that ac- 
 count the owners of them make a bad market, 
 and are as badly paid. At the time I paffed 
 here, many of thefe people had not been at 
 the Cape for a number of years. 
 
 I ftill continued to advance, but whether it 
 was that fatigue, and the repeated misfortunes 
 I fucceffively experienced, had deranged my 
 health ; or that I was obliged to pay tribute 
 to thefe new climates, and that the temperature 
 of them made a powerful impreffion on my 
 conftitution — I was often attacked by fudden 
 ficknefs, and haunted with the gloomy idea 
 that I fliould leave my afhes at the diftance of 
 two thoufand leagues from my family. My 
 imagination^ too lively, ftill exaggerated this 
 
 N 4 mis- 
 
i84 TRAVELS IN 
 
 misfortune ; and I gave way to dejection and 
 defpair. The moil difmal melancholy took 
 pofleflTion of my mind ; for I now faw myfelf 
 in reality flopped in my progrefs. I was 
 afflifted with violent head-aches, an extraor- 
 dinary heavinefs, and a general uneafmefs, that 
 feemed to announce very ferious danger. This 
 w^as the only event 1 dreaded when I fet out* 
 I found it would be neceflary for me to Hop, 
 that I might recruit my ftrength : and I at 
 laft formed my refolution ; convinced that the 
 moft acute diforder muft here, as well as 
 amidft the phyficians noftrums, take a favour- 
 able turn, or relieve the patient by death, 
 
 I dragged myfelf along, therefore, as well 
 as I could, and took a curfory view of the 
 environs. Having obferved an agreeable fitua- 
 tion for my camp, in the neighbourhood of 
 a fmall rivulet, I ordered my tents to be ereded 
 at the edge of a wood. I knew nothing of 
 the practice of phyfic, but regimen and re- 
 pofe ; my people knew flill lefs ; and, if my 
 malady increafed, I was likely in their hands 
 to run very great rifques. I became fo weak, 
 that I was obliged to remain abed in my wag- 
 gon, which the heat of the fun rendered like a 
 burning furnace. I was tormented with ex- 
 2 crutiating 
 
AFRICA. iSj 
 
 crutiating pains in my bowels ; a violent dyfen- 
 teiy followed ; and I heard my people, in their 
 turn, complain one after the other of the fame 
 diftemper. Imagining then that this kind of 
 epidemia was occafioned by the great quantity 
 of fait fifh which we had eaten, I ordered all 
 that remained of it to be burnt. In the m^ean 
 time I was wafted by a continual fever ; but I 
 did not entirely lofe my ftrength : and, after a 
 copious perfpiration for twelve days, reft, and 
 a proper regimen, re-eftablifhed me. I took 
 moderate exercife, calm.ed my fpirits, and I 
 foon found myfelf every day get better. The 
 fame regimen reftored all my people. I did 
 not fail to add to the lift of the grand and 
 fublime difcoveries in medicine, the warm 
 bath ; and I am firmly perfuaded that this bath, 
 or chance, faved my life. 
 
 When I was perfectly recovered, I refumed 
 my ufual occupations, exercife and hunting. In 
 my firft excurfion I found that we were flanked 
 by a fecond river, called ^eur-Boo?n^ which 
 falls from the weftern mountains, and Is 
 joined by the Witte-Dreft at the diftance of 
 a league from the fea. Its mouth is near a bay, 
 called by navigators the Bay of Agoa. In a 
 journey which governor Blettenberg of the 
 
 Cape 
 
j36 travels in 
 
 Cape made towards this place, he ordered his 
 name, the year and the day of his arrival, ta 
 be engraven on a iftone column. I examined 
 this wretched monument, which wanted no- 
 thing but an infcription in verfe to render it 
 ftill more contemptible. This name now pre^ 
 vails in all the colonies ; and the Bay of Agoa 
 is known under that of Blettenberg s Bay. Thus 
 a paltry poft, erefted by the vanity of an in- 
 dividual, in a moment gives birth to errors 
 which difconcert conventions before received ; 
 and at the fame time overturn opinions gene- 
 rally adopted by the people. In our neigh-^ 
 bourhood there happened to be a flock of from 
 twenty-five to thirty bubales in a place in- 
 clofed by the fea and our two rivers ; and 
 as our camp was fo fituated, that it filled 
 the whole fpace which remained for them to 
 cicape by, thefe animals were entirely at our 
 mercy. Confidering them as part of our live 
 ftock, we did not fpare them ; for whenever 
 our provifions began to fall lovv^, I brought 
 down a couple of them. Not one of them 
 efcaped us ; and their ikins, when joined 
 together, made a pretty covering for the wag- 
 gon I had repaired at Pampoen-Kraal. 
 
 As 
 
AFRICA. 187 
 
 As large troops of buffaloes came to browfe 
 in our fight, on the other fide of the Queur- 
 Boom, we gave chafe to them, and caught 
 feveral of them. 
 
 This animal Is remarkably wild, and one 
 muft attack it with great precaution in the 
 woods ; but in the open fields it is not 
 formidable. It fears, and flies from the pre- 
 fence of a man. The fur eft wav of catchinp- 
 it, is to harafs it with dogs. Whilfl: it is en- 
 gaged in defending itfelf, a bullet in the head^ 
 or the omoplate, will inftantly difpatch it. The 
 bullets to be ufed muft be of a large fize, and 
 made either of tin or lead. If the animal is 
 not wounded in the two places above men- 
 tioned, it will efcape. 
 
 Its horns are very large and divergent. By 
 the clofenefs of their roots to each other, on 
 the forehead, one would almpft imagine that 
 they proceed from the fame bafe. The buf- 
 faloe is much ftronger and larger than the 
 moft beautiful oxen in Europe ; and I am of 
 the fame opinion as many travellers, that it 
 would not be impoffible to render it tradable 
 and fubmiffive to the yoke. That this at- 
 tempt hath never yet fucceeded, is but a weak 
 ^ objec- 
 
i88 TRAVELS IM 
 
 objedion ; for falfe experiments are no proo£. 
 Such an enterprize, indeed, would require time, 
 knowledge, and art ; and ought not to be en- 
 trufted to the indolence of an ignorant planter, 
 accuftomed often to fee infurmountable ob« 
 ftacles in a flight difficulty. This fpeculation is 
 worthy of the grand views of a Company who 
 are continually endeavouring to extend every 
 branch of induftry and commerce. Were 
 fome of thefe animals caught when very 
 young, and put into proper inclofures, and 
 were they gradually accuftomed to come and 
 receive fome favourite food from their keeper, 
 they would foon carefs the hand that feeds 
 them. When they grev/ up, they would pro- 
 duce young ; which, inftruded by their mo- 
 thers, would follow their example, and become 
 ftill more familiar. Why fhould we not be- 
 lieve that, at the third generation, the manners 
 of the bufFaloe would be foftened, when we 
 every day fee ferocious bears, taken from the 
 mountains of Savoy, traverfe our ftreets, dance, 
 leap, falute people, and in a word obey the 
 orders of their conductor with the moft timid 
 fubmiffion to his avaricious caprice. 
 
 In general, all animals with horns and clo- 
 ven feet have a haggard eye, which gives 
 
 them 
 
AFRICA, 189 
 
 them a terrible appearance : but, as in carni- 
 vorous and fanguinary animals, tins is not a 
 fign of fury, on the contrary it indicates 
 terror and fear. They have neither the deep 
 cunning, nor the mifchievous difpofition, of 
 the Hon, the tiger, or even the elephant. In- 
 deed they have no occafion for them ; the 
 vegetables upon v^hich they feed do not 
 caufe fo much heat in their bowels : they 
 are exceedingly w^ild, but they are timid. In 
 this apparent contrail I fee nothing contrary 
 to nature, and I difcover one of the moft 
 ftriking features of man. 
 
 I ihall not here enter into an examination 
 of thofe complicated fliades, hitherto fo little 
 known, which diftinguiih favage animals from 
 each other. It is always either a regard to 
 their own fafety, or a defire of providing for 
 their own fubfiftence, that leads them to fero- 
 city ; but being, like us, fubjedl to paffions 
 varioufly combined, they proceed to it by dif- 
 ferent routes. This examination, which is 
 foreign to a work merely hiftorical, I fhall 
 referve for my defcription of animals. 
 
 I had never yet taken a clofe furvey of the 
 bay, very improperly called Blettemberg. The 
 attention I paid to my health, at the clofe of 
 
 • my 
 
igo TRAVELS IN 
 
 my diforder, had hitherto prevented me from 
 examiPxing it ; and, when I went thither for 
 the fiift time, I was much furprifed to find 
 that it was only a very open road, fcarcely 
 extending into the country at all. It is very 
 fpaciouG, and has a fufficient depth of water 
 for the largeft veflels ; the anchoring ground 
 is fure ; and, by means of boats, they may 
 be eafily carried to a beautiful part of the 
 ihore, which is not confined by the rocks that 
 abound there, as they are all detached from 
 one another. By advancing a league from 
 the coaft, the crews would arrive at the mouth 
 of the Queur-Boom, where they v>^ould find 
 water. Refreiliments might be procured from 
 the inhabitants of the environs ; and the bay 
 would fupply fifli, with which it abounds ; 
 and excellent oyfters, with which all the 
 rocks are covered. This bay is one of thofe 
 places where government ought to efta- ' 
 blifii warehoules and repofitories for timber : 
 the fprefts every where around are magnifi- 
 cent ; and they could be more eafily cut down 
 than any where eUe : for it is not to fteep moun- 
 titins that one mail go in fearch of wood, a.<^ 
 in the country of Autenlqua; it is here ready 
 at hand, . Warehovdes, as I have faidj ought 
 
 to 
 
AFRICA. 
 
 191 
 
 to be erected clofe to the bay ; and, during 
 the fine monlbon, it might be tranfported to 
 the Cape in a fhort time, and without any 
 rifque. This eafy expedient would open the 
 eyes of the inhabitants to their own intereft : 
 the exportation would be renewed, and would 
 foon increafe. Thefe inexhauftible lands once 
 cultivated, befides affording hopes of abundant 
 crops, would draw thither a great number of 
 intelligent planters, on account of the ready 
 communication which they could havew^ith the 
 Cape : and thefe people would procure from 
 all parts neceffaries and conveniences w^hich 
 they muft now renounce ; becaufe, to find 
 them, it is neceffary to go more than an hun- 
 dred and fifty leagues into thq country. Were 
 this fcheme carried into execution, thefe 
 ftoneft Dutchmen would no longer be loudly 
 and fincerely wifhing that fome nation would 
 form a fettl^ment in their neighbourhood, and 
 furnifh them with thofe articles that contribute 
 to the happinefs of life, and the pleafare of 
 fociety. It would alfo, at the fame time, ex- 
 tend the treafures of commerce, at the Bay of 
 Agoa. Thefe wifhes, fo contrary to their politi- 
 fial intereft, could not be gratified without Iiurt- 
 Jng them. The Company have nothing to do 
 
 uL 
 
192 TRAVELS IN 
 
 but to form here a proper eftablifhment. To 
 the general profits of fiich an inftitution 
 would be added thofe of individuals, which 
 could not fai! to be of importance. They 
 might, for example, cut down a certain tree, 
 called ftinking wood^ and export it to Europe, 
 v/here it w^ould undoubtedly foon be preferred 
 to every other kind employed by cabinet- 
 makers. 
 
 The advantages which the Company and 
 the colony might derive from this beautiful 
 countiy, could not certainly have efcaped the 
 governor, who made a journey hither. But in 
 fettlements, the profperity of which is at the 
 mercy of a few united together, and interefted 
 in oppofmg every plan that would tend to 
 dimlniih their profits, what is a governor ? 
 A pafTive being ; indolent with refped: to the 
 general good, and who is actuated only by 
 a regard to his private concerns. Confent- 
 ing to a kind of banifliment for a certain 
 time, he privately eftablilhes in his own mind, 
 as the firft article of his contrad:, that, as he 
 muft rapidly make a fortune, every method 
 of procuring it is honourable and lawfuL 
 Full of thefe ideas, when he arrives at the feat 
 of his government, where he finds every thing 
 
 favour^ 
 
AFRICA. 19 
 
 ^ 
 
 favourable to his views, he exercifes his 
 rapacity with impunity 5 when he returns to 
 his own country, he infults his fellow-citizens 
 by infolent pomp : and he undoubtedly never 
 thinks of opening the eyes of his employers* 
 concerning thofe improvements and regula- 
 tions which in a little time would increafe the 
 happinefs of a populous colony. 
 
 I am of opinion that colonies, under the 
 management of exclufive companies, are like 
 thofe public carriages which circulate through 
 all Europe, carrying paflengers and goods at 
 the fame time ; provided the latter arrive 
 fafe, the proprietors care very little whether 
 the poor travellers who defcend from the 
 coach have their limbs broken or found. 
 
 In the neighbourhood of this bay I found 
 means to increafe my colledlion with feveral 
 beautiful birds, and even with fome new fpe- 
 cies, which were common here in the woods : 
 but I wifhed, above all, to procure one which 
 more than once put my patience to the proof, 
 and had Hke to have coft me very dear. It 
 was a bald buzzard *, of a moft beautiful fpe- 
 cies. This bird, of the genus of the eagle, 
 
 * By feme natural ifts called the Tea eagle. 
 
 Vol, L O iri 
 
194 TRAVELS IN- 
 
 is almofl: as large as the ofpray. Every day 
 I faw it hovering over my camp, but at fuch a 
 diftance that it could not be reached by a ball. 
 I however conflantly obferved its motions ; and 
 I made a perfon always keep watch, and never 
 lofe light of it. One day that I had crofled 
 the Queur-Boom, while walking along the 
 bank oppofite to that on which my camp 
 flood, I percei-ved a number of heads, frag- 
 ments of large fiihes, and the bones and re- 
 mains of fmall antelopes, ftrewed on the 
 ground, near the rotten trunk of an old tree, 
 I immediately concluded that this muft be the 
 place where two of thefe bald-buzzards had efta- 
 blifhed their fiihery, or at leaft their ordinary 
 haunt ; and it was not long before I faw them 
 foaring round in the air, at a great height. 
 Without lofs of time I concealed myfelf in a 
 thick bufh ; but this ftratagem was not exe- 
 cuted with fufEcient aiertnefs to deceive the 
 piercing eyes of thefe two eagles. They 
 doubtlefs obferved me ; for they did not de- 
 fcend. Next day, and for feveral days fuccef- 
 fively, I returned to my ftation, at break of 
 day. I pcfted myfelf in the thicket, but all 
 my vigilance was ineffedlual. This bufmefs 
 was very laborious ; becaufe, to go and return, 
 
 I was 
 
AFRICA. 195 
 
 I was obliged to pafs the river twice ; and at 
 thefe times it was neceflary to wait for the 
 ebbing of the tide. 
 
 Tired out at hift, as I wafted my time with- 
 out being able to fucceed, I took two Hotten- 
 tots with me ; and croffing the river, in the 
 middle of the night, conduded them to a fpot 
 near the trunk of the old tree, where I made 
 them dig a hole three feet wide and four deep* 
 When it was made, I placed myfelf in it ; 
 and having ordered them to cover the hole 
 over my head with a few fticks, a piece of a 
 mat, and fome earth, I referved only a fmall 
 opening, fufficiently large for me to put my 
 fufee through it, and to fee the old trunk. I 
 then defired my people to return to the camp. 
 ' Day approached, but the cruel birds did not 
 make their appearance. The earth feeming 
 to be newly thrown up, had no doubt ren- 
 dered them fufpicious ; and this was a circum- 
 ftance which I had not at firft thought of. 
 At the clofe of the night, I came forth from 
 my hole, and went to pafs a few hours at my 
 camp ; after which I returned, and interred 
 myfelf as before. This expedient I continued 
 for two days fucceffively, with much patience. 
 During that interval, the fun had dried the 
 
 O 2 earth, 
 
196 TRAVELS IN 
 
 earth, and made it all of one colour. About 
 the middle of the third, I obfeiTed the female 
 foaring above the tree, upon which fne foon 
 alighted, with a very large fiih in her talons. 
 I inftantly difcharged my piece ; and had the 
 pleafure of feeing her fall, flapping her wings : 
 but before I could difengage myfelf from 
 my mat, andthe earth which covered me, fhe 
 fo far recovered her ftrength as to fly; and, 
 brufhing the furface of the river, reached the 
 other fide, where flie expired. 
 
 The joy which I felt on finding myfelf in 
 poifeffion of this bird was fo great, that, with- 
 out obferving that the tide was up, I threw ^ 
 myfelf into the water, with my fufee on my 
 Inoulder ; and I was not fenfible of my im- 
 prudence, till in the middle of the river I 
 found myfelf up to the chin. To add to my 
 misfortune, I w^as alone, and entirely unac- 
 quainted with fwimming. Had I attempted 
 to return, the rapidity of the current would 
 have undoubtedly throv/n me down. With- 
 out knowins: v/hat was to become of me, I 
 purfued my way, as it were, mechanically ; 
 rmd I had the good fortune to reach the op- 
 pofite bank : an inch more would have in- 
 fallibly drowned me. I rufhed upon my 
 
 bald* 
 
AFRICA. 197 
 
 bald-buzzard ; and the plcafure of fecuring my 
 prey, foon effaced every remembrance of fear 
 and danger. I was, however, obliged to pull 
 off all my clothes, and to fpread them out to 
 dry : in the mean time I amufed myfelf in 
 examining my prize ; and, when my clothes 
 were perfectly dry, I returned without any 
 danger to my habitation. When I arrived, I 
 was told that feveral of my people were gone 
 in purfuit of a buffaloe, which they had met 
 with ; and, towards evening, I faw them re- 
 turn loaded with the limbs of the animal, 
 which they had cut up on the fpot. Next 
 morning, very early, I did not neglect to fend 
 in fearch of the fragments, which they had left 
 to attrad: birds of prey. This method procured 
 me the male bald-buzzard ; which di ffered 
 from the female in nothing but the general 
 diftinftion of carnivorous birds, that of being 
 always a third fmaller. I iliall give a figure 
 and defcription of the latter, under the name 
 of Vocifer. 
 
 The fame morning, as I was fitting calmly 
 in my chair, at the entrance of my tent, hav- 
 ing before me a table upon which I was dif- 
 fering my bald-buzzard, an antelope, of that 
 fpecies called the bof-hock^ fuddenly crofled my 
 
 O 3 camp, 
 
198 TRAVELS IN 
 
 camp, and pafled through my carriages ; while 
 my dogs, which had firft feen it, and which 
 endeavoured to oppofe it, were not able to 
 make it alter its courfe. After this aUrrn, it 
 ran ftraight towards a net extended to dry, 
 at the fide of my camp 5 tore it to pieces ; 
 carried away fome fragments of it ; and, 
 purfued by my whole pack, threw itfelf 
 precipitately into the river. At the fame in- 
 ilant I faw nine wild dogs arrive, which had 
 probably given chace to it, and which were 
 following its traces. At the fight of my camp, 
 thefe animals flopped ihort, and making a little 
 tour, reached a fmall hill, upon which I had 
 polled myfelf ; and from which, as well as I, 
 they could fee their prey feized by my dogs and 
 my Hottentots ; who did every thing in their 
 power to tear it from the teeth of the former, 
 and to bring it to me alive. They indeed fuc- 
 ceeded effedlually, after having lafhed its legs, 
 Nothing could be more pleafant than to fee 
 the fimple look of thefe wild dogs ; which 
 being ftill fpedators of this provoking fcene, 
 had not quitted the eminence ; and, being 
 feated on their rumps in a melancholy pof- 
 ture, fufEciently fhewed by their impatient 
 gellures what ideas they entertained of our 
 
 ii 
 
AFRICA. 
 
 199 
 
 injuftice, and of their own right to the repaft 
 which we had deprived them of. I wilhedmuch 
 to catch one of them, and fome of my people 
 crept foftly along in order to reach them ; but 
 being more cunning than we, they fufpeded 
 their manoeuvres, and made off full fpeed. I 
 fent a bullet after them, to thank them for the 
 fervice they had rendered us ; but, as it did not 
 take effed:, I might as well have faved myfelf 
 the trouble. This antelope I attempted to 
 preferve, and to tame ; but it was fo wild, 
 the fight of my dogs infpired it with fo much 
 fear, and it ftruggled fo much, and made fg 
 many violent motions, that it muft infallibly 
 have deftroyed itfelf. To fave it therefore 
 from this torture, we killed and ate it. 
 
 This adventure, for more than eight days, 
 afforded fubjedl for my wits to exercife their 
 genius on ; and they laughed at the poor 
 wild dogs for having ftarted the game, to fee 
 themfelves fo fuddenly deprived of it. 
 
 It muft however be allowed, that, had not 
 my dogs been fupported by my people, they 
 would not have been able to fecure the ante- 
 lope ; for, though they were more numerous 
 than the wild dogs, the latter were ftronger, 
 fiercer, and more courageous. I fhall after- 
 
 O 4 wards 
 
200 TRAVELS IN 
 
 wards have occafion to fpeak of them, and to 
 redify a great may errors refpeding them, 
 which have been propagated and confirmed 
 by men of the greateft talents. But how can 
 people fpeak with any certainty of objeds 
 which they have never feen themfelves, efpe- 
 cially when they copy the relations of others 
 who know them as little ? 
 
 Until the 15th of June I formed feveral en- 
 campments In the neighbourhood of the Bay 
 in different places. Refolved to continue my 
 journey into the country, between the chain 
 of mountains and the fea, I went to recon- 
 noitre the way : I endeavoured, but without 
 fuccefs, to find a place where my carriages 
 could eafily pafs ; for the forefts were fo ex- 
 tenfive, and fo thick, that there was no poffi- 
 bility of penetrating through them. My Hot- 
 tentots, on their part, were not more fortu^ 
 nate in their refearches than I ; we could 
 abfolutely difcover no outlet. I determined 
 therefore to crofs the chain of mountains ; but 
 to accomplifh this, it was ftill neceffary that I 
 fhould find the beginning of a paflage, where 
 my unfortunate oxen might be able to keep 
 their feet. In vain did I traverfe, run, and 
 fgarch every where around ; for nothing ap^ 
 
 pearqd 
 
AFRICA. 20I 
 
 peared to my view but peaked rocks to 
 whatever quarter I turned. Without know- 
 ing it, we had entangled ourfelves in a kind 
 of hollow valley, without any opening, from 
 which we could not get out but by re- 
 turning the fame way we had come. This 
 method through neceflity we were obliged to 
 purfue ; and we again found ourfelves at the 
 wood of Poort, from which we had departed 
 a month before. 
 
 Such is the happy inftability of the human 
 mind, that little is fometimes wanting to re- 
 ftore it to its former tranqjaillity. This fpot, 
 to which I returned with the utmoft regret, 
 and which before feemed fo barren and difmal, 
 all of a fudden refumed a new and fmiling 
 appearance. Having obferved, as I walked 
 along, the traces of a flock of elephants, which 
 muft have palTed there the fame day, nothing 
 more was requifite to banifh all my chagrin, 
 and to confole me for the delay I had experi- 
 enced in my route ; we therefore ereded our 
 tents in that place. 
 
 Among my Hottentots there was one who 
 had travelled thus far in his youth with his 
 horde and family, who had not been long re- 
 moved from it. As he had befides a fuperfi- 
 
 cial 
 
202 TRAVELS IN 
 
 cial knowledge of the country, I felefled him, 
 with four others; and, having put my camp 
 in order, we departed all fix, carrying with 
 us fome provifions ; and following the traces, 
 which we never loft fight of even for a mo- 
 ment : but they led us on till night without 
 feeing any thing. V/e then fat down to fup- 
 per veiy merrily, exhorting one another not 
 to think too much of the enjoyments of our 
 camp ; and, having kindled a large fire, we 
 ftretched ourfelves out around it, on the cold 
 hard ground. 
 
 Though each of, us had affefted to infpire 
 his companions with courage and patience, 
 we were equally tormented with emotions of 
 fear and uneafinefs : none of us enjoyed a 
 found fleep : on the fmalleft breath of wind, 
 or the leaft quivering of a leaf, we ftarted up 
 to liften, and began to prepare for our own 
 prefervation. Night paffed away amidfl: thefe 
 flight alarms ; and at the break of day I roufed 
 my fieepy companions by loud cries : little 
 time was requifite for them to be dreffed ; and 
 a glafs of ftrong liquor revived their fpirits, 
 and made them forget the rude manner in 
 which I had awakened them. We fpent the 
 fecond day in great dejedion; and we were 
 
 not 
 
AFRICA. 2Q3 
 
 not fo fuccefsful as on the firft. In the even- 
 ing we repeated the fame ceremonies as before, 
 but with this difference, that being perhaps 
 become bolder, or even more confident, we 
 hoped that an uninterrupted fleep would re- 
 cover us a little from our fatigue, and ferve 
 at leaft to refrefh us. We were however dif- 
 turbed by a very fudden alarm. Scarcely had 
 my Hottentots been afleep an hour, when a 
 buifalo attraded by the light, approached 
 cloft to us ; but as this animal is afraid of 
 man, no fooner did he obferve us, than he 
 was feized with terror, and inftantly fled. The 
 noife which he made in retreating precipitately 
 through the bufhes, and the crafhing of the 
 branches, awaked us ; upon which we all 
 ftarted up, and having fearched around for 
 the fpace of an hour, difcharging our pieces 
 at random, we returned to our fire. The 
 third day was flill more difaftrous : the 
 hiflory of it I fhall relate more at length, 
 for it often recurs to my mind ; and at pre- 
 fent, as the fire of youth becomes cooler, it 
 does not lead me into fuch rafli enterprizes, 
 and has given place to calmer ideas : the 
 remembrance of it ftill afFeds me, and makes 
 me fhudden 
 
 Purfuin2: 
 
204 TRAVELS IN 
 
 Purfuhlg the traces of our animals without 
 ever lofmg fight of them, we arrived at a very 
 large open part of the foreft, in which there 
 were only a few fhrubs, and fome underwood. 
 Having flopped here, one of my Hottentots 
 climbed up a tree to get a better view ; and 
 cafling his eyes every w^here around, he made 
 a fign to us to be filent, by putting his finger 
 to his mouth ; and fignified by his hand, which 
 he opened and fhut feveral times, what num- 
 ber of elephants he perceived. When he 
 defcended we held a council ; and going to 
 the leeward of them, that we might approach 
 without being difcovered, he conduded me 
 through the bufhes fo near, that he brought 
 me quite clofe to thefe enormous animals, I 
 almoft touched them, as I may fay, and yet I did 
 not obferve them ; though I can fafely declare 
 that my eyes were not fafcinated by fear. In 
 fuch fituations one mufh run great rifks, and 
 pyepare for danger. I flood upon a fmall 
 eminence jufl above the elephant. In vain 
 did my courageous Hottentot point it out 
 with his finger ; and twenty times repeat, in 
 an eager and impatient tone, there it is, I faw 
 nothing of it ; for I cafl my eyes to a much 
 greater diflance, and never imagined that 
 
 what 
 
AFRICA. 205 
 
 what r beheld below me could be any thing 
 elle than a rock, fi nee the mafs I faw was en- 
 tirely motionlefs. At length, however, a 
 flight movement attraded my attention ; and 
 the head and tufks of the animal, which 
 eclipfed its enonnous body, turned towards 
 me. Without lofmg this opportunity, or 
 wafting my time in fine contemplations, I 
 refted my large fulee on its pivot, and taking 
 aim at the middle of its forehead, difcharged 
 my piece, upon w-hich it inftantly dropped 
 down dead ; whilft about thirty more, ftartled 
 by the report, fled on all fides. Nothing 
 could be more amufmg than to fee the mo- 
 tion of their large ears, which flapped about 
 in proportion to the fvviftnefs with w^hich 
 they ran : but this was only a prelude to a 
 much more animated fcene. 
 
 I w^as furveying them with great pleafure, 
 w^hen I fired at one of them as it pafl!ed clofe 
 to us. By the excrements tinged with blood 
 which it dropped, I judged that it was danger- 
 oufly wounded, and we began to purfue it. 
 Sometimes it fell, then got up, then fell 
 again ; but we were clofe at its heels, and ftill 
 made it rife by the fhots which we difcharged at 
 it, On the fourteenth fliot, it turned with great 
 
 fury 
 
2o6 TRAVELS IN 
 
 fury upon the Hottentot who had fired ; whilft 
 another difcharged a fifteenth, which only 
 ferved to increafe its rage ; and, as it advanced 
 rapidly towards us, he called out to us to be 
 upon our guard. I was only twenty-five paces 
 diftant from it ; loaded with my fufee, which 
 weighed thirty pounds, befides ammunition : 
 and I was more difadvantageoully fituated than 
 my people ; who, not having gone fo far, 
 could more eafily efcape the avenging trunk, 
 and extricate themfelves from danger. I there- 
 fore betook myfelf to my heels : but the ele- 
 phant, at every ftep, gained upon me ; fo that, 
 more dead than alive, for only one at that mo- 
 ment ran up to defend me, I found no refource 
 but to lie down clofe to the trunk of an old tree, 
 which was extended on the ground. Scarcely 
 had I reached my lurking place, when the 
 animal arrived, leaped over the trunk, and, 
 being much frightened with the noife of my 
 people, whom he heard before him, he flopped 
 fhort to liften. From the place where I lay 
 I could have eafily fired, as my fufee very 
 luckily was loaded ; but the animal had al- 
 ready received fo many fhots without efFed:, 
 and it was in fo unfavourable a pofition, that, 
 defpairing to kill it by one difcharge, I re- 
 mained 
 
AFRICA. 
 
 207 
 
 mained motlonlefs waiting for my fate. I how- 
 ever w^atched it, refolved to fell my life at a 
 dear rate, fhoiild it attempt to return towards 
 me. My people, uneafy for their mafter, called 
 to me from all quarters ; but I was very cau- 
 tious not to give them any anfwer. Convinced 
 by my filence that they had loft their chief, 
 they redoubled their cries, and were filled with 
 the utmoft defpair. The elephant, frightened, 
 hnmediately turned round, and a fecond time 
 jumped over the tree, fix paces below the fpot 
 where I w^as, without perceiving me ; upon 
 which ftarting up, fired wdth impatience in my 
 turn, and wiihing to flicw to my Hottentots 
 fome figns of life, I difcharged my fufee in its 
 pofteriors. The animal then entirely difap- 
 peared ; leaving every where as it pafTed cer- 
 tain traces of the cruel fituation to which we 
 had reduced it. 
 
 The pidure is not yet finifhed ; gratitude 
 and friendfhip demand the laft touch. Wor- 
 thy man, who poflefleft a feeling heart, the 
 moment is now come w^hen I muft erefl: to 
 thy memory that monument which I pro- 
 mifed thee. Thou canft never comprehend 
 with what pleafure I difcharge this duty: 
 may it confer fome honour on my travels, 
 • 1 and 
 
ao8 TRAVELS IN 
 
 and even ornament the relation of them. It 
 will never reach thee in the bofom of thy 
 peaceful defarts : but thou wert fenfible of my 
 tears, and thy fraternal arms have prefled me' 
 to thy bofom. Whether thou art alive or 
 numbered with the dead, I ftill feel it. The 
 remembrance of me will be preferved longer 
 and more glorioufly among thy favage hordes, 
 than by empty trophies reared by the vanity 
 of man. I confefs myfelf unworthy of it, and I 
 renounce it. But do thou, generous Klaas, 
 young pupil of nature, whofe virtuous mind 
 was never corrupted by our elegant inftitu- 
 tions, preferve always the remembrance of thy 
 friend. It is to thee alone that he flill addrefles 
 his tears and his tender regret. 
 
 When ftretched out by the trunk of an old 
 tree, at the mercy of a furious animal, which 
 with its wandering eye was fearching for me 
 every where around ; and which, if it had 
 turned towards me, might have deftroyed me 
 on the fpot — it was then that my heart, quite 
 palpitating with terror, was opened to the 
 fenfations of a tender fentiment, infpired by 
 one of thofe people, of whom polifhed nations 
 never fpeak but with horror or contempt; 
 whom, without knowing, they confider as 
 
 atrocious 
 
AFRICA. 209 
 
 trocious beings, the refufe of nature ; in a 
 word, by an African favage, a Caffre, a Hot- 
 tentot. 
 
 When I left the Cape, Mr. Boers gave me 
 this man, as a perfon upon whofe bravery 
 and fideUty I could depend. He had exprefsly 
 charged him never to abandon me, whether 
 dead or alive ; promifmg to reward him hand- 
 fomely, if, on my return to the Cape found 
 and fafe, I fhould give a fatisfaQ;ory tefti- 
 mony refpedling his behaviour. It was this 
 man that never quitted me for a moment; 
 and who, having feen me fuddenly difappear, 
 hurried to my afiiftance though he fought for 
 me in vain. I heard him through the buflies; 
 call me with a faint voice, which indicated his 
 anxiety ; then addrefs himfelf to my dejedled 
 and confounded companions, who followed at 
 a little dlftance, and reproach them with their 
 timidity, w^hen furrounded by danger. " What 
 '' will become of us ?" faid he, in his own ex- 
 preffive and affedling language—" what will 
 " become of us, fhould we have the misfortune 
 " to find our unhappy mafter trod to death 
 " under the feet of the elephant ? Dare you 
 *' ever return to the Cape v/ithout him ? With 
 " w^hat face will you appear before the fifcal ? 
 Vol. I. P « What^ 
 
210 TRAVELS IN 
 
 " Whatever excufe you may make, you will 
 " be confidered as bafe affaffins : it is you in- 
 " deed who have deftroyed him. Return to 
 " the camp ; plunder and difperfe his effedls ; 
 " do whatever you choofe. As for me, I 
 " fhall never quit this place : dead or alive 
 " I muft find my unfortunate mafter ; I have 
 *' refolved to perifh along with him." — Thefe 
 words were uttered with fighs and lamentations 
 fo affefting, that, even in the moft critical mo~ 
 ment, I perceived the tears ftart from my eyes, 
 and the tendered fenfations fucceed to terror. 
 My firing my fufee was a fignal of joy ; and I 
 found myfelf in an inftant furrounded by my 
 people, and in the arms of my dear Klaas, who 
 fqueezed me fo clofely that I could fcarcely 
 difengage my body from him. This faithful 
 youth in turns killed my perfon and clothes ; 
 while his companions, w^ith the utmoft for« 
 row, and In a fappliant attitude, ftretched out 
 their hands towards me, as if to implore my 
 pardon. I took care to confole them ; for I 
 was too highly gratified by this fcene to dillurb 
 it by ufelefs words or reproaches. From that 
 day, the happieft in my life, in which I knew 
 the pleafure of being fincerely beloved, and 
 from no motives^ of intereft, I confidered the 
 
 worthy 
 
Africa. 211 
 
 worthy Klaas as my equal, my brotherj and the 
 confidant of all my pleafures, misfortunes, and 
 fecrets : he has more than once calmed my dif- 
 quietude, and revived my drooping courage. 
 If he afterwards fhewed any fio;ns of weaknefs 
 which were dangerous and contrary to the 
 good order I had eftabliflied among my peo- 
 ple, this teftimony of his attachment gave him 
 fo much power over me, that I could never 
 allow myfelf to fhew feverity towards him, or 
 even to alarm his heart. 
 
 I drew from nature the portrait of this brave 
 Hottentot ; and the faithful and ftriking refem- 
 blance here given of him was executed under 
 my infpedion, and engraved from my own 
 defign. 
 
 As night was approaching, we haftened 
 towards the elephant v/hich I had been fo 
 fortunate as to kill with one fhot : and in- 
 deed nothing could have been more feafon- 
 able ; for our prefence drove away fome vul- 
 tures, and feveral fmall carnivorous animals, 
 which, without lofs of time, had begun to 
 devour it. We kindled a number of fires ; 
 and, as our provifions ran fbort, my people 
 cut a few fteaks from the elephant, and pre- 
 pared for me fome dices of the trunk. This 
 was the firit time I had ever tafted fuch food ; 
 
 P 2 and 
 
412 TRAVELS IN 
 
 and I firmly refolved it fliould not be the laff^. 
 for I found it moft delicious. Klaas aflurcd 
 me that, when I tailed the feet, I fhould foon 
 forget the trunk ; and, in order to convince 
 me, he promifed me a moft lufcious break- 
 faft, which he inftantly ordered to be pre- 
 pared. The four feet of the animal were then 
 cut off: a hole about three or four feet 
 fquare was made in the earth, and filled with 
 burning coals j and the whole being covered 
 with dry wood, a large fire was kept up in it 
 during the greater part of the night. When 
 the hole was fufficiently heated, every thing 
 was taken from it. Klaas placed in it the 
 four feet of the animal, covering them with 
 hot afhes ; afterwards with coals, and fome 
 fmall pieces of wood : and this fire was fuffer- 
 ed to remain till day-light. All that night I 
 was the only perfbn who flept ; for, according 
 to the orders given by Klaas, my people kept 
 watch. They informed me that they had 
 heard many buffaloes and elephants ranging 
 around. This we expected, as the whole fo- 
 reft was filled with them ; but the number of 
 our fires prevented them from coming to dif-- 
 turb us. 
 
 At breakfaft my people brought me one of 
 the elephant's feet ; which had fwelled fo much 
 
 by 
 
AFRICA. 213 
 
 by Its being baked, that I could fcarcely dif- 
 tinguifb its form. It however looked well, 
 and exhaled fo fweet a fmell that I was eager 
 to tafte it, I indeed found that it was 
 food fit for a king. I had often heard the 
 feet of bears boafted of; but I could not con- 
 ceive how an animal fo heavy and coarfe as 
 the elephant could produce fo tender and de- 
 licate flefh. " Never," faid I to myfelf — 
 *' never can our modern Luculli difplay upon 
 ** their tables a diih like that which I now 
 ^* enjoy. In vain with their riches do they 
 ^' change and reverfe the feafons ; in vain do 
 *' they boaft of laying all nations under con- 
 *' tribution : their luxury has never yet at- 
 *' tained to this gratification ; bounds are pre- 
 *' fcribed to their fenfuality," And I devoured 
 without bread my elephant's foot ; while my 
 Hottentots, feated near me, regaled themfelves 
 with other parts, which they found no lefs 
 excellent. Thefe particulars may appear 
 childifh, or at leaft indifferent, to a great many 
 readers ; but it is neceffary to relate every 
 thing, fince fo many whimfical and abfurd 
 notions have hitherto been entertained refped:- 
 ing this fmgular country which I was traverf- 
 ing, 
 
 P 3 The 
 
214 TRAVELS IN 
 
 The reft of the morning we employed In 
 plucking out its tufks ; as it was a female, they 
 did not weigh twenty pounds : the animal 
 herfelf was eight feet three inches in height. 
 My people then loaded themfelves with all the 
 provifions they could carry, and we fet out to 
 return to our camp. We at firft propofed to 
 follow the one we had left alive, and which 
 had been wounded in fo cruel a manner ; but 
 fo many had arrived during the night, that 
 their traces were entirely confounded : we 
 were, befides, fo fatigued, that being afraid to 
 difcourage thefe poor people, I refolved to lead 
 them back as foon as pofTible. 
 
 The Hottentots polTefs the faculty of fight 
 in the moft exquifite degree ; and this advan- 
 tage is feconded by a very wonderful attention. 
 Upon the drieft ground, where, notwithftand- 
 ing its weight, the elephant leaves no traces 
 perceptible to a common eye, amidft withered 
 leaves fcattered and driven here and there by 
 the wind, the African can diftinguifh the 
 prints of this animal's feet : he fees the path 
 it has purfued, and that which he muA fol- 
 low to come up with it. A green leaf reverfed 
 or torn off, a bud deftroyed, the manner in 
 which a fmall branch is broken, and a thou- 
 
 fand 
 
AFRICA. 215 
 
 iahd other circumftances, are to him never- 
 faiUng marks, whilll the moft expert European 
 hunter would lole all his refources. As for 
 me, I could difcover nothing ; though I had 
 beftowed much time and attention upon this 
 divining part of one of the moft delightful 
 kinds of hunting. I confefs that I v^as fo fond 
 of it, that I did not difdain to enter into the 
 minutiae of it. I acquired inftrudion more 
 and more every day ; and, Vv^hen I ranged the 
 woods with my people, I fpent v/hole days in 
 afking queftions ; and I had fometimes occa- 
 fion to puf my precepts immediately into 
 pradlice. 
 
 When we returned to the camp, my old 
 Swanepoel told me that, during my abfence, 
 he had been every night difturbed by flocks of 
 elephants, which had approached fo near that 
 they heard them break the branches of the 
 trees, and browfe on the leaves. I made a 
 tour through the foreft ; and I indeed faw a 
 great many young trees broken, branches 
 ftripped of their leaves, and young fhoots 
 devoured. 
 
 This was enough to induce me again to take 
 the field ; efpecially as my people had been 
 allowed fufficient time to repofe. I however 
 
 P 4 chofe 
 
ti6 TRAVELS IN 
 
 chofe rather to go and furprife thefe animals 
 in the day time, than to wait for them in my 
 tent during the night. In the morning, there- 
 fore, I fet out ; but I was obliged to wander 
 to a great diftance. From the top of an emi- 
 nence, at the edge of the wood, I perceived 
 four in fome very thick bufhes : and taking 
 care to get to the leeward of them, I approach- 
 ed with great precaution; furveying them with 
 much pleafure for half an hour, while they 
 were eating the extremities of the branches. 
 Before they took them in their mouths, they 
 beat them three or four times with their 
 trunks ; in order, as I imagine, to ihake off the 
 ants, and other infefts. After this ceremony, 
 they always grafped with their trunks all the 
 branches they could furround ; and, convey- 
 ing them to their mouths always on the left 
 fide, fwallowed them without ranch chewing. 
 I remarked that they preferred thofe branches 
 which were beft furnifhed with leaves ; and 
 that they were, befides, extremely fond of 
 a yellow fruit, when it was ripe, which in 
 the country is called a cherry. 
 
 When I had fufBciently examined their 
 method of feeding, I fired at the head of the 
 one neareft to me, which I killed ; and in lefs 
 
 than 
 
AFRICA. 1217 
 
 than ten minutes I in the like manner ex- 
 tended the whole three on the ground. *. 
 
 V/e imagined that there were no more : but 
 a great noife near us having made us turn 
 round, one of my Hottentots, who obferved a 
 fmall elephant, killed it. I was very forry for 
 his raflmefs, and reprimanded him feverely. 
 As this animal was not larger than a calf of 
 five or fix months old, I might have eafily 
 tamed it. 
 
 Among the four I had killed, there was a 
 young male feven feet one inch in height. 
 Its tufks weighed only about fifteen pounds 
 each. 
 
 The largeft of the reft, which were femxales, 
 was only eight feet five inches in height ; and 
 their tufks, in general, did not exceed fifteen 
 pounds each. 
 
 A fingularity which aftonifhed both me and 
 my Hottentots, who aflured me they had never 
 before feen it — and which naturalifts, according 
 to their laudable cuftom of receiving as certain 
 and invariable principles only what is related 
 
 * When the elephants are in a flock, and purfued, if the 
 firft that is fired at falls, one may be certain of killing all 
 the reft, one after the other. I fhall fpeak of this fingularity 
 hereafter. 
 
 in 
 
2iB TRAVELS IN 
 
 in books, and by thofe who travel in their clofets, 
 will probably doubt — is, that the female, which 
 we judged to be the mother of the young male, 
 had only one teat, fituated in the middle of 
 her breaft. It was full of milk, fome of which 
 I fqueezed into my hand, and found it to be 
 very fweet ; but the tafte of it was far from 
 being agreeable : this milk iffued from eight 
 fmall orifices, very perceptible and diftinct. 
 The reft had two dugs, placed generally under 
 the breaft, of the fame form as thofe of wo- 
 men ; and of fuch a fize, that more than one 
 lady of pleafure who has loft a little of her 
 plumpnefs, might have envied this charm in 
 my female elephants. 
 
 The young male which my imprudent Hot- 
 tentot killed, had no tufks ; and when I opened 
 its lips a little, at the place from which they 
 Ihould have grown I perceived only a fmall 
 white knob, of the fize of a fwan ftiot : its 
 flefti was extremely delicate. In one of the 
 females I hoped to difcover a foetus, but I was 
 deceived. I found their ftomachs filled with 
 ^ very limpid liquor, fome of which my peo- 
 ple drank, and which I alfo had the curiofity 
 to put to my mouth ; but it was fo difagreea- 
 bly naufeous, that to deftroy the tafte of it, 
 
 and 
 
AFRICA. ^19 
 
 and to refrelh myfeif, I went and drank from 
 a fpring that happened to be at the diftance of 
 a quarter of a league from the place where we 
 were. 
 
 Having left my people bufy in cutting up 
 the elephants, when I returned from the fpring, 
 at the end of half an hour, I was much fur- 
 prifed to perceive nobody. I could not con- 
 jedture what had obliged them to leave their 
 w^ork ; nor could I conceive the caufe of this 
 fudden defertion. Beginning to bawl out as 
 loudly as I could, in order to recal them, in 
 cafe they fhould be near enough to hear me, 
 I was much aftonifhed when I faw them all 
 four come out of the elephant's belly, into 
 which they had entered to detach the interior 
 fibres : thefe, next to the feet and the trunk, 
 are the moft delicate morfels. 
 
 I difpatched my fifth Hottentot to tell 
 Swanepoel to fend me a yoke of oxen and a 
 chain. As we had cut off the four heads when 
 they arrived, we began by putting the chain 
 through them ; but it required no little art 
 and addrefs to make the oxen approach, and 
 to yoke them to the chain. They fnorted 
 violently, turned away their noftrlls, and ftart- 
 ed back with horror. By ftratagem, however, 
 I we 
 
t2o TRAVELS IN 
 
 we wfere able to bring them back ; and they 
 were yoked to the four heads, which they 
 dragged to my tent, acrofs fands, dull, and 
 bufhes ftained with their blood : a horrid 
 fpedacle without doubt, but ftill neceflary ; as 
 the roads were fo bad that a waggon could 
 never have been condu£ted to the fpot. But 
 the cafe was ftill worfe, when, being defirous 
 of returning to the elephants, near which I had 
 left a part of my people, I could not make my 
 horfe pafs thofe places which were tinged 
 with their blood. I was obliged to take another 
 route ; and when we arrived near the ele- 
 phants, as foon as he faw and fmelled them, 
 he capered and kicked in fo violent a man- 
 ner, that he threw me 5 and making off full 
 fpeed, by a vety long compafs returned to the 
 camp. 
 
 I am again about to touch upon one of 
 thofe moments which do not twice occur in 
 life. With what fenfations is my foul agitated ! 
 I {hall curfe pleafure, and all its inventions. 
 One muft be a different being to combine fo 
 many ideas and various fentiments. He who 
 experiences them cannot fupport them ; he 
 is agitated, oppreffed, and borne down by 
 them. 
 
 5 Pe^^S 
 
AFRICA. 221 
 
 Being obliged to return on foot, I perceived 
 through the trees a ftrange Hottentot on horfe- 
 back, taking the neareft way to come up with 
 me. Having flopped to wait for him, I found 
 that he was an exprefs fent by Mr. Boe^s, 
 He had received orders to enquire concerning 
 me in every part of the colonies through 
 which I might have pafled ; and to follow my 
 traces, when, quitting the known roads, I 
 fhould enter the diftant country. This man 
 had faithfully executed his commiffion ; and, 
 guided by the ruts of my wheels, had vifited 
 all my different encampments, and thence 
 proceeded till he found me. 
 
 Before I quitted the Cape, Mr. Boers had 
 promifed that if he received any letters for me 
 from Europe during my abfence, whatever 
 route I might purfue, or wherever I might 
 be, he would take care to convey them to me. 
 This refpedable friend kept his word ; and 
 in the packet which his Hottentot put into 
 my hands I found feveral which bore the 
 French ftamp. As thefe were the firft ac- 
 counts tranfmitted to me from Europe fince 
 my departure, it would be difficult to defcribe 
 with what impatience and agitation I received 
 them from the meflenger. Uncertain what 
 
 I was 
 
222 TRAVELS IN 
 
 I was to learn from them, I had fcarceiy 
 ftrength fufficient to open them ; and it may- 
 be readily guefled that I did not wait until I 
 had returned to the camp, to fatisfy myfelf on 
 this fubjed. They were all from my deareft 
 friends, and my wife ; my eyes ran over them 
 quicker than lightning: but I every where 
 found caufe for being happy ; for I obferved 
 that I was beloved and regretted. The ten- 
 dereft friendfhip came to feek me in the feofom 
 of my defarts, and to overwhelm my heart 
 with its delights. I could neither fpeak, figh, 
 nor weep — I could only remain in the fpot 
 where I was, ready to die with joy ; but I 
 gradually recovered my fenfes, and returned 
 to my camp. 
 
 When thefe firft tranfports had fubfided, I 
 fhut myfelf up in my tent ; and giving free 
 vent to my tears, which afforded me relief, 
 ' I immediately began to write anfwers to thefe 
 letters : I dated mine from the camp of Aitteni^ 
 qua^ the day on which 1 had killed four elephants. 
 One of thefe letters, which contanied fome in- 
 terefting details, addrefled to a literary friend, 
 was ridiculoufly handed about fome years ago 
 through Paris ; and was afterwards loft. \ 
 there mentioned feveral difcoverles which 
 
 con- 
 
AFRICA. 223 
 
 contradld opinions hitherto received ; and of 
 which I ihall give an account in my defcrip- 
 tion of animals. 
 
 At night, when my camp was put in order, 
 and the fires kindled, I placed myfelf, as ulual, 
 with my papers before me on a piece of plank, 
 while my Hottentots fat around me. — " My 
 " friends," faid I, " you behold one of your 
 " countrymen, whom Mr. Boers has fent to 
 " enquire in what fituation I am ; and to 
 " know whether your behaviour be agree- 
 ^' able to what he expeds from you, and to 
 your duty tovs^ards me. Behold, added I, 
 fnewing them the iirft letter that I put my 
 hand upon — behold the anfwer which I 
 " have written ; and in which I tell him that 
 " you have hitherto behaved like honeft and 
 " brave people ; and that, during the eight 
 " months we have been travelling together, I 
 " have confidered you as the faithful compa- 
 " nions of my enterprife and labours. I tell 
 " him that he needs not be uneafy on my ac- 
 " count, becaufe I have the fame confidence 
 " in you as in myfelf ; and that Mr. Boer's 
 " meffenger, on his return to the Cape, may 
 " be able to affure your friends and families 
 *^ that you are well, and that you are con- 
 
 " tented 
 
224 TRAVELS IN 
 
 *' tented and happy, I wifh him to be a wit- 
 *' nefs of the amicable manner In which I treat 
 *' you ; and for this reafon I fhall diftribute 
 *^ to each of you an excellent roll of tobacco : 
 *' I hope, therefore, that all your pipes will 
 *' be inftantly lighted." — When my diftribu- 
 tion was finifhed, each retired to his place, 
 and fmoked at his eafe. 
 
 I was fo overjoyed with the teftimonies of 
 affeftion which I received from my relations 
 and friends, with their fmcere protellations of 
 attachment, and with the accurate informa- 
 tion which they all gave me in their letters, 
 that, intoxicated with pleafure, forgetting 
 Africa, my hunting excurfions, my moft beau- 
 tiful birds, and my elegant collections, and in 
 a word for that moment becoming a child, 
 I devifed in order to amufe me what might 
 among certain ranks be called <ifejlival^ and by 
 thofe of an inferior clafs 2. farce, 
 
 1 had been too generous in diftributing my 
 tobacco ; and my people had received more 
 than was fufficient to intoxicate them, had I 
 permitted them to ufe it as they pleafed : but 
 I contrived a method to prevent them. Ob- 
 ferving that the third pipe was dravv^ing to a. 
 clofe, as foon as I had drank my tea I ordered 
 
 a fmall 
 
AFRICA. 225 
 
 a fmdl box to be brought me, which I placed 
 On my knees. I opened it, and never did any 
 quack fhew more myfterious dexterity ; I 
 drew from it that noble and melodious in- 
 ftrument unknown perhaps at Paris, but very 
 common in fome of the provinces, and which 
 is feen in the hands of almoft every fchool- 
 boy and of the vulgar — in a word, a Jews- 
 harp. Scarcely had I begun one of thofe 
 airs played on the Pont-Neuf, when I faw 
 every body with the utmoft filence lay down 
 their pipes, and flare at me with their mouths 
 wide open, their arms half extended, and their 
 fingers fpread, in the attitude of thofe people 
 whom fome old woman has bewitched. With 
 their ears attentive, and their heads motionlefs, 
 and inclined to one fide, they did not lofe the 
 leaft note of the inftrument ; till, not being able 
 to reftrain their enthufiafm, each infenfibly 
 quitted his place, to enjoy the pleafure nearer. 
 I imagined every moment thati Ihould fee them 
 all together proftrate themfelves before the god 
 who performed this vv^onder ; whilft I could 
 hardly keep from burfting out into a fit of 
 laughter, which v/ould have foon diffipated the 
 whole charm. When I had done, I laid hold of 
 the perfon v/ho was neareft me, and put the 
 Vc)X. L Q^ wonder- 
 
226 TRAVELS IN 
 
 wonderful lute into his hands : I found It 
 very difficult to make him comprehend the 
 method of ufmg it ; but having at length 
 made him do it fome how or other, I fent 
 him back to his place. As I much doubted 
 whether the reft would be contented if they 
 had not one each, I diftributed as many Jews- 
 harps as I had Hottentots ; and being all 
 collected, fome performing well, others badly, 
 and fome wretchedly, they regaled me v/ith a 
 concert that might have frightened the Furies, 
 Even my oxen, difturbed by their horrid hum- 
 ming, began to bellow ; and all of a fudden 
 my camp became fuch a fcene of noife and 
 riot as was perhaps never feen. In every part 
 it exhibited the true pidure of a holiday. 
 
 By the air of ftupefadlon which they exhibit- 
 ed when I my felf tried the ridiculous inftrument, 
 I was perfuaded that fimple minds may be ftruck 
 with aftonifhment by very fimple means ; and 
 notwithftanding all that hiftory relates of the 
 great talents of Orpheus, and of the wonders 
 performed by his mufic, I am always inclined 
 to allow much honour to thofe poets who have 
 celebrated this harmonious lyre, which their 
 imagination alone has confecrated. ^ 
 
 When I was fufficiently fatisfied with the 
 
 melodv 
 
AFRICA. 227 
 
 melody of mine, being afraid that thefe plea- 
 fantrles might be changed into very ferious 
 alarms ; and that my oxen, which had not yet 
 forgotten the elephants heads, might abfolutely 
 be frightened, and run away, I made a fign 
 with my hand that I had fomething more to 
 fay, and immediately the noife ceafed. " My 
 " dear friends," added I, in a fimple and 
 afFedtionate tone, " I have regaled you with 
 *' the beft tobacco you ever tafted ; I have 
 *' made you acquainted with a wonderful in- 
 " ftrument : we are now going to terminate 
 *' this delightful entertainment with a fev/ 
 *' bumpers of the beft French brandy ; and 
 *' we fhall drink to the health of our families 
 ** and friends." 
 
 This, as I have faid, was a real holiday; and, 
 even to my domeftic animals, all muft fhare in 
 the general frolic, and ad; a part in our orgies. 
 Kees at this moment was clofe by my fide ; 
 a ftation which he was remarkably fond of, 
 and which he never failed every evening to 
 aflume. Reared like a child of the family, I 
 had almoft fpoiled him ; for I never eat or 
 drank any thing without allowing him part of 
 it. If I fometimes happened to forget him, 
 as he was a fworn enemy to my abfence of 
 
 0^2 thought. 
 
228 TRAVELS IN 
 
 thought, he took great care to roufe me front 
 my reveries by patting my hand, or fmacking 
 his lips. I have already laid that he was re- 
 markably gluttonous ; his temperament led 
 him to extremes ; for he was equally fond of 
 milk, and of ftrong liquors. I never gave himi 
 any of the latter but in a plate, which I gene- 
 rally ordered to be placed before him ; as I 
 obferved that every time he had drank it from 
 a glafs, his precipitation made him take as much 
 by the nofe as by the mouth, fo that he coughed 
 and fneezed for whole hours, which incom- 
 moded him very much, and might have at 
 length caufed him to break fome blood veflel. 
 He was then on the ground clofe by me, 
 waiting till his allowance ihould be ferved up 
 to him ; and following with his eyes the bottle 
 which was pafiing round, and which flopped 
 at each of my Hottentots. With what impa- 
 tience did he v/ait for his turn ! How ftrongly 
 did he exprefs by his motions and looks that 
 he feared the cruel bottle v^rould be emptied too 
 foon, and would not reach him ! But, alas ! the 
 unfortunate animal, while licking his lips by 
 anticipation, little knew that he was going to 
 tafle it for the laft time. But be not dejeded, 
 O tender reader ! My worthy Kees did not 
 
 perifh, 
 
AFRICA. 229 
 
 perifh, and my brandy was faved for the 
 future. 
 
 Having finiihed my difpatches, and inclofed 
 
 them in their laft cover, at the moment when 
 
 he beheld with fatisfadtion that the bottle had 
 
 performed its round, it came into my head to 
 
 deceive his expedlation by a trick, without any 
 
 other motive than to furprife him, and to amufe 
 
 myfelf. His allowance had been juft poured 
 
 Into the plate ; and, whilft he was preparing to 
 
 tafte it, I lighted at my candle a flip of paper, 
 
 which I imperceptibly conveyed under his 
 
 belly : the brandy inftantly caught fire ; Kees 
 
 fent forth a fhrill cry, and leaped to the 
 
 diflance of ten paces from me. I tried to re- 
 
 cal him, by offering him a thoufand careflfes ; 
 
 but, following the didates of his own pafllon 
 
 and anger, he Immediately difappeared, and 
 
 retired to reft. Night being now pretty far 
 
 advanced. I received the compliments and 
 
 thanks of my people j and all of us flept very 
 
 foundly. 
 
 I muft obferve that, after this terrible fear 
 into which poor Kees was thrown, all the 
 means I employed to make the animal forget 
 what had pafled, and to bring him back to his 
 fcivcurite liquor, were entirely frultlefs. He 
 
 0^3 never 
 
530 TRAVELS IN 
 
 never would tafte a drop of it ; on the con- 
 trary, he feemed to have conceived an impla- 
 cable averfion to it. When any of my people, 
 for their amufement only, fhewed him the 
 bottle, he muttered between his teeth : and 
 fometimes when it was within his reach he 
 would give it a blow ; and, inftantly climbing 
 a tree, there fhew his difpleafure in perfedt 
 fecurity. 
 
 Next day, after having properly rewarded 
 Mr. Boers's intelligent commiffioner, I deliver- 
 ed my difpatches to him, and ordered him to 
 fet out on his return. 
 
 In the morning I began to diflecl the head 
 of one of the elephants, in which I left the 
 grinders and the tufks. During this operation, 
 feveral of my people, who had gone to procure 
 provifions, brought back abundance of flefh, 
 being fome of the moll fucculent parts of the 
 four elephants, which they cut into very long 
 and thin flices, in order that, being expofed to 
 the fun according to our ufual cuftom, they 
 might dry fooner. Some broke the bones into 
 fmall pieces, and put them in our two kettles ; 
 after which they threw boiling water upon 
 them : in proportion as the greafe melted, it 
 floated on the furface ; and being colleded, 
 
 4 ^y 
 
AFRICA. 231 
 
 my people put it into bladders, and fome of 
 the inteftines, the better to preferve it. A 
 Hottentot never negleds to make this pro- 
 vifion ; for, befides what he daily ufes at his 
 toilette, he employs it alfo in cooking different 
 difhes. As for us, we never could find too 
 much of it, as we were obliged to greafe the 
 wheels and traces of our waggons ; which 
 without this precaution, would have been foon 
 fo much dried by the fun as to be unfit for 
 fervice. I myfelf uled it for candles and for 
 my night lamp, which wafted a great deal : 
 for want of fpun cotton I made wicks of my 
 neckcloths. 
 
 The preparing of this fat took us up a con- 
 fiderable time : and the operation was not 
 quite finiihed, when fome of my people came 
 to inform me that thev had dbferved an enor- 
 mous print of an elephant's foot, at the diftance 
 of an hundred paces from my tent. As the 
 traces were quit€ frefh, I concluded this mon- 
 ftrous animal could not have gone far ; and I 
 immediately fet out in fearch of it. We ranged 
 the foreft with great care ; and having come 
 up with it at the end of half an hour, I took 
 aim at it in the proper place : but I was much 
 furprifed not to fee it fall \ my fufee, in all 
 
 0^4 probability, 
 
232 TRAVELS IN 
 
 probability, muft not have been fufficiently 
 loaded, or the animal was an impenetrable 
 rock. However, when it found itfelf wounded, 
 it rufhed towards us with great fury, as we ex« 
 pedled ; but the bufhes being thick, and ferving 
 us as a kind of rampart, it could do nothing 
 clfe than ftamp the earth, and fhew its rage in 
 vain. It loft a great deal of blood ; but it 
 appeared, from the fwiftnefswith which it fled, 
 that it would be of no avail to purfue it. I 
 was extremely forry for this difappointment, 
 as it was the largeft I had ever before feen. It 
 was at leaft thirteen feet in height ; and, tq 
 judge by the eye, its tufks could not have 
 weighed lefs than an hundred and twenty 
 pounds each. 
 
 When our provifions were thoroughly dried 
 and packed up, we departed, in order to 
 return once more towards the fatal Kay- 
 man's Hole, where I had paflTed on the 30th 
 of April, two months before. My Hotten- 
 tots, whom I had fent to reconnoitre, having 
 informed me that we could crofs the chain of 
 mountains at one called the DeviTs Heady we 
 purfued our courfe that way ; and this gave 
 jne an opportunity of ixvifiting the place of 
 ixiy encampment at Pampoen-KraaJ, upon 
 
 which 
 
AFRICA. 233 
 
 which I once more caft a look of regret.' — 
 When we arrived at the bottom of the moun- 
 tain I ordered the elephant's head I had dif- 
 fered, its tufks, and all my preferved birds 
 and infe(3:s, to be put upon one of the car- 
 riages ; and again leaving my camp to the care 
 of faithful fervants, I repaired with my wag- 
 gon to Mr. Mulder's houfe ; for, as I was 
 obliged to return in order to find a paflage, I 
 had approached very near to his habitation^ 
 Jiaving engage^ to tranfmit my packet and 
 frelh letters to Mr. Boers by the firft opportu- 
 nity, I at length took leave of this refped:able 
 family, whom I was never again to fee, and 
 went back to my camp^ 
 
 Next morning, very early, we afcended the 
 mountain ; not without much difRculty and 
 fatigue. But this was nothing in comparifon 
 of what we experienced in defcending on the 
 other fide : the view of it indeed frightened 
 me. As foon as we perceived it, we all looked 
 at one another without uttering a fmgle fylla- 
 ble, as people unexpededly caught in a trap : 
 "Vve could not however remain on the fum- 
 mit ; and it was neceffary that we fhould 
 4efcend either oa thj one fide or the other. 
 Jf we efcaped from Charybdis, we were ftill 
 
 expofed 
 Tur mmm mi^^m''^'^' fy^^m IWMH 
 
^34 TRAVELS IN 
 
 expofed to the danger of falling Into Scylla. 
 Always perfuaded that patience and precau- 
 tion will overcome the greateft obftacles, I 
 could not believe that this enterprize would 
 be more difficult for my caravan, than the paf- 
 fage of the Alps had formerly been to numer- 
 ous armies ; and I immediately prepared, as 
 one may fay, for taking this dangerous leap. I 
 took care to make my carriages defcend one 
 after the other ; and that they fhould be each 
 drawn by no more than two oxen. I caufed the 
 firft to advance in good order, efcorted by all 
 my people : but we were obliged to pafs over 
 pointed rocks, detached one from the other ; 
 which, forming fo many high fteps, gave the 
 waggon fuch jolts, as almoft broke it to pieces. 
 This however was not what appeared to us 
 to be moft dangerous ; for, by the means of 
 ropes affixed to the wheels, we raifed them up, 
 or fufFered them to roll, as occafion might re- 
 quire : it was the fmooth places, and the flip- 
 pery declivities that made us fhudden At 
 ever moment I thought I faw the carriage and 
 the oxen hurried to the brink of the precipice j 
 while, on the fide oppofite to the declivities, 
 we were pulling with all our force the ropes 
 faftened to the waggon. Our addrefs being 
 
 crowned 
 
AFRICA. 2^s 
 
 crowned with complete fuccefs, we afcended 
 to bring down the other two carriages ; and, 
 after a confiderable time, the whole caravan 
 arrived fafe at the bottom of the mountain. 
 It appeared to me that Nature had oppofed 
 this barrier, as an obftacle to prevent me from 
 entering on this new country ; and that it was 
 here fhe had concealed her moil beautiful 
 treafures : on this account I had been fo much 
 the more incited to overcome every thing that 
 flood in my way. I knew that this route 
 from Auteniqua to the Ange-Kloof was con- 
 fidered by the natives as impracticable ; and 
 that no perfon before me had ever attempted 
 it with carriages. This was fuflicient to pique 
 my vanity ; and I had the good fortune to 
 pafs thefe rocks : but, as if it had been necef- 
 fary that puniihment fhould immediately foU 
 low fuch a raih attempt, I found myfelf in a 
 moll frightful and gloomy defart. 
 
 This was no longer the delightful and fer-* 
 tile country of Auteniqua ; the mountaia 
 which we had croffed, or rather from which 
 we had precipitated ourfelves, formed a wall 
 of feparation between it and us for ever. It 
 no longer prefented thofe majeftic forefls 
 which we had fo long admired ] for the whole 
 
 back 
 
236 TRAVELS IN 
 
 back part of the chain was hideous and bare, 
 deftitute of trees, and without the leaft appear- 
 ance of verdure. Another chain, parallel to 
 this, feemed involuntarily to bear a few paltry 
 woods, which had fome refemblance to that 
 named Wage-Boom. This wood, by inclofing 
 the country, and leaving only one opening, 
 has made the name o^ Ange-Kloofhc given to 
 this long valley. 
 
 My intention being to direfb my courfe to- 
 wards the north, I continued my journey for 
 feven hours, keeping along that curfed valley ; 
 and we again crofTed the Queur-Boom, which 
 here is but a moderate ftream ; whereas two 
 months before it had made me tremble, when, 
 to fearch for my bald-buzzard, I threw my- 
 felf into it at its mouth with too much precipi- 
 tation, and narrowly efcaped being drowned. 
 Purfuing our melancholy route, after feveral 
 encampments no lels tedious, and a march 
 of twenty-two hours, I pafTed another river, 
 called, and very juftly, Krom-Rivier^ or the 
 Crooked River. It formed fo many turns and 
 windings, that we continually found it in our 
 way : I croffed it ten times. In proportion as 
 we advanced, the two chains of mountains 
 feemed to approach each other on purpofe, and 
 
AFRICA. 237 
 
 the country to become confiderably narrower. 
 The valley was now only a marfhy hollow ; 
 which, for full fix leagues, occafioned great 
 fatigue to my oxen. We once more had a 
 view of the Krom-Rivier ; but this was for the 
 laft time : it took its courfe towards the eaft, 
 where it throws itfelf into the fea ; and we at 
 length turned altogether towards the norths 
 Here I left one of my horfes that was fick, 
 and which could not follow us ; as I was un« 
 willing to wait in hope of a cure, which 
 perhaps might not fucceed. I thought it 
 would be much better to leave the care of his 
 prefervation to nature. 
 
 Along the Ange-Kloof there are a few 
 wretched houfes, which have more refem- 
 blance to the dens of wild beafts than to the 
 habitations of men. The inhabitants breed very 
 few cattle. When the eaft wind blows acrofs 
 this wild country, it is exceffively cold : I 
 was fenfible of it from the very firft to the laft 
 day. Every morning we had ice and white 
 frofts. I do not exadlly know the length of this 
 difmal valley ; but I am certain that I employed 
 forty-fix hours in going through it. 
 
 After advancing feven or eight leagues, I 
 crofTed Diep-Rhner^ the Deep River ; and ten 
 
 leagues 
 
2^8 TRAVELS IN 
 
 leagues farther, on the 7th of Auguft, we en- 
 camped upon the borders of that of Gamtoos, 
 It derives its name from an unfortunate cap- 
 tain who in a ftorm was fhipwrecked near its 
 moTith. 
 
 Half an hour before we arrived here, we 
 were obhged to defcend another very fteep 
 and dangerous mountain, by which the bel- 
 lies of two of my oxen burft, fo that their 
 bowels came out. This lofs was occafioned 
 by the perfon who conducted my fecond wag- 
 gon, and who had imprudently quitted it. 
 
 The Ipeautiful afped of this new country 
 made us ample amends for the melancholy 
 moments we had feveral days experienced, 
 amidft the deteftable roads and the ice of the 
 valley of the Ange-Kloof, 
 
 The firft night I encamped, tovrards mid- 
 night, before I had fallen afleep in my tent, I 
 thought I heard an unuiual noife : and liften- 
 ingwith attention, I found I was not deceived; 
 for I could diftinguilh the found of Ihouting 
 and finging, which feemed to proceed from 
 no great diftance. I immediately called my 
 people, who told me that they alfo heard a 
 conftrfed nolfe ; but we did not know whether 
 it was occafioned by Hottentots or Caffres. I 
 
 had 
 
AFRICA. 239 
 
 had great reafon to be afraid of the latter ; not 
 that they thirft more after human blood, as 
 ignorant writers have faid ; but becaufe the 
 cruel manner in which they are treated by the 
 planters, incites them more to war, and becaufe 
 the right of avenging injuries is natural to 
 man, I fhall foon relate feveral fad:s, which 
 will prove, better than vain reafonings, whe- 
 ther a favage or an European is the moft bar- 
 barous. 
 
 As it was probable that I might be con- 
 founded among the vidims of their vengeance, 
 I ordered all my people to be under arms, 
 and we removed to fome diftance from our 
 camp. The farther we marched the noife 
 became more diftind: ; and we obferved fome 
 fires. I could not hov/ever perfuade myfelf 
 that they were CafTres i for they would have 
 betrayed themfelves ; artifice in vain borrows 
 the darknefs of night, it muft alfo borrow its 
 filence. 
 
 Havirg placed myfelf in ambufh, that I 
 might be able to furprife them, in cafe they 
 fhould pafs that v/ay to plunder my camp, I 
 detached two of my people to take a nearer 
 view of them ; who immediately returned to 
 inform me that we had been alarmed with- 
 out 
 
240 TRAVELS IN 
 
 out any caufe ; and that they were only ^ 
 horde of Hottentots, who were Tinging and 
 making meri*y. This intelligence freed me from 
 my uneafmefs, and I was even happy in my ad« 
 venture, which feemed to promife next morn- 
 ing a very interefting interview. We therefore 
 returned to our camp, and flept very foundly* 
 
 Early in the morning I was again awakened 
 by a warbling, which afforded me no lefs 
 pleafure. It proceeded from birds which I did 
 not know, and which I had never before heard. 
 I found them moft beautiful. I was dazzled 
 by the brilliant and variable plumage of the 
 copper-coloured ftarling,the amethyft-coloured 
 throat of the certhia flaveola*, the courou- 
 coucouf, the king's-hunter, and of a great 
 many others : I obferved alfo feveral fpecies 
 which I had never before feen. 
 
 Game appeared to me to be very abundant 
 in this place. I faw, above all, innumerable 
 flocks of pheafants, and a fev/ of thofe ante- 
 lopes called bos-bock, pafs before me. The 
 flicility I found in procuring all thefe animals^ 
 
 * In the original fucrier ; called alfo by Br iiTpn grifn- 
 -perau ; and by Sir Flans Sloan, in his Natural Hiftory of 
 Jamaica, the black and yellow bird, 
 
 t Curucuiy a Brafilian bird. Trogon Linn, T. 
 
AFRICA. 241 
 
 of which I had never feen fo great plenty any 
 where, infpired me with the greateft joy. 
 
 Whilft I amufed myfelf with firing at the 
 birds, I permitted my Hottentots to go and 
 pay a viiit to their countrymen. An acquaint- 
 ance was, in a little time, formed with this 
 favage horde ; I myfelf in my turn went up to 
 them, and we were foon both fatisfied with one 
 another. Their women every evening brought 
 us a large quantity of milk ; for thefe people 
 were very rich in cattle. They made me a 
 prefent of a few fheep, to which they added a 
 noble pair of oxen for my carriages ; and as I 
 was. not willing to remain in their debt, I gave 
 them fome earthen ware, a fmall quantity of 
 tobacco, and a few knives. All my people 
 infmuated themfelves infenfibly into the kraal; 
 each then had his doxy, and the female fqua- 
 dron came and eftablifhed themfelves among us 
 during the vv^hole time of our abode. 
 
 I learned that at the mouth of this river I 
 might meet with fome hippopotami, or river 
 horfes, none of which I had ever feen. As I was 
 only five or fix miles diftant from the fea, and 
 on that account had it in my power, perhaps, 
 to be acquainted for the firft time with this 
 fpecies of quadrupede, I fet out with the utmoft 
 fpeed. The river however was fo broad, and 
 
 Vol, L R its 
 
2^z TRAVELS IN 
 
 Its banks were fo encumbered with large tree^i 
 that my labour and refearches were in vain. 
 I fpent whole days in walking along, its fhores; 
 and in the night time I placed myfelf on the 
 watch, in hopes of feeing fome of them come 
 forth from the water to feed; but I never had 
 even that fatisfadlion. 
 
 To make me amends, elephants and bufFaloeSj 
 efpecially the latter, were fo common, and eafy 
 to be killed, that we had more provifions than 
 we could ufe, I fupplled the former hufbands 
 of our women w^ith great abundance : being 
 better arm.ed than they, I hunted only for 
 them; fo that I obliged them in every man- 
 ner poffible. Thus, armdft the defarts of Africa, 
 I introduced the cuftoms and polite manners 
 of the moft eivifized nations of Europe. I 
 mull here remark, that if fome hiftorians have 
 faid that the Hottentots are of a jealous dif- 
 pofition, thofe whom Vw'e met with were not 
 fufceptible of that cruel paffion. Had I after- 
 wards found any hordes iubjedl: to it, I Ihould 
 have mentioned this circumftance with the 
 fame veracity. 
 
 My engaging behaviour had fecured me the 
 friendfhip and confidence of thefe honeft fa- 
 vages; and they entertained fo high an opinion 
 o£ me, that they never undertook any thing 
 
 without 
 
AFRICA. 
 
 243 
 
 without confulting me. One day having come 
 to complain that the hysenas of the country 
 ravaged and deilroyed their flocks, I was the 
 more inclined to believe what they faid, as one 
 of my oxen had juft been devoured by the fame 
 animals. Charmed at having an opportunity 
 of hunting thefe ferocious beads along with 
 them, I appointed next day for our excurfion; 
 and early in the morning they arrived at my 
 camp, to the number of about an hundred 
 men, all well armed with bov/s and arrows. 
 To thefe I added all my hunters ; and, putting 
 myfelf at their head, we beat the whole coun- 
 try round with our dogs. With fuch a number 
 of people I hoped to make a general flaughtet 
 among thefe deftrudlive animals ; but three 
 fhots which we fired, and which killed three of 
 them, had apparently difperfed all the reft. Af^ 
 ter this we faw none of them ; for the noife had 
 fo frightened them, that, from that moment 
 till the time of our departure, we heard no 
 more of the hysenas than if they had never 
 exifted. 
 
 Some days after we had an alarm which 
 might have become ferious. In the middle 
 of the night we were all at the fame time 
 awakened by a frightful noife, proceeding from 
 
 R 2 a troop 
 
^44 TRAVELS IN 
 
 a troop of elephants, which In paffing us 
 almoft brufhed againft our camp : in number 
 they might be about an hundred. On this oc- 
 cafion I was under fuch dreadful apprehenfions, 
 which my people ihared along with me, that 
 we did not think proper to infult this formid- 
 able battalion, nor to difpute their paflage. 
 Had I attempted it, ray camp, my animals, 
 my carriages, and all my people, would in a 
 moment have been crufhed to atoms. They 
 however did not flop, and my camp remained 
 perfectly fafe. 
 
 At the break of day we received a vifit from 
 our neighbours, who had been expofed to the 
 fame terrors. They came exprefsly to inform 
 me that, if I fhould ever again meet with the 
 fame fpecies, I ought to be very cautious not to 
 fire at them ; as the elephants we had feen were 
 extremely dangerous, and much more mifchie- 
 vious than the reft. They affured me that their 
 flefh was good for nothing; that it occafioned 
 ulcers to thofe who eat it; and, in a word, that 
 they were red elephants. — Red elephants! This 
 word albne infpired me with a ftrong defire to 
 fee them, and feemed to promife the acquire- 
 ment of frefh knowledge ; for I had never read 
 or heard that there were red elephants. 
 
 When 
 
AFRICA. 245 
 
 When thefe animals retired into the woods, 
 they had reached a deep hollow, furrounded 
 by enormous bufhes, where it would not have 
 been prudent to approach too n^ar them. I 
 therefore ordered ibme Hottentots to file off 
 behind, and to form a ring; bidding them 
 fet fire, at certain diftances, to the dry grafs ; 
 and to difcharge fome fhots, to make them 
 pafs by the bottom of a large rock, upon 
 which I had polled myfelf with my beft markf- 
 rnen, and where we could be expofed to no 
 kind of danger. 
 
 My rangers feconded my efforts in a won- 
 derful manner ; for as foon as the fires and 
 the noife of the reports had fpread the alarm, 
 the whole troop, frightened, prefented them- 
 felves before me. A dozen of Ihots, which 
 they did not exped:, made them retreat with 
 precipitation, and in the greateft diforder. I 
 fhould in vain attempt to defcribe the number* 
 lefs figns which they exhibited of their fury: 
 on one fide they faw themfelves purfued by 
 the flames of the buihes, w^hich c:ained on 
 them behind ; and on the other by my fhots, 
 which I direfted to the only pafTage that re- 
 mained for them to efcape death. They agi- 
 tated their bodies as much as the enormity and 
 
 R 3 heavi« 
 
246" TRAVELS IN 
 
 heavinefs of them would permit ; while their 
 deafening cries, and the crafliing of the trees 
 vv^hich they broke in retreating or flying, 
 formed fuch a dreadful tumult, that the fight 
 of it frightened me, though I was ilieltered 
 by my rock, and could not be difturbcd in any 
 manner^ We wounded one, which for a 
 moment feparated from the troop ; but it 
 foon joined them ; and being confounded w^ith 
 the reft, it would have been very difficult to 
 take aim at it again. From the nature of its 
 bellowing, I imagined it was mortally wound- 
 ed, and that it could not long furvive ; but 
 we did not think proper to go immediately in 
 fearch of it, being firmly perfuaded that it 
 could not efcape us. 
 
 In this new kind of hunting I had no other 
 view than to procure one of thefe animals ; 
 which were faid to be of a different fpecies 
 from all thofe I had before feen. Satisfied 
 with having wounded one, and confidering it 
 as certainly dead, I refolved not to go in fearch 
 of it till the next morning : I confequently 
 recalled all my people, ajid we returned to our 
 camp. I had indeed been ftruck v/ith the 
 reddifli colour of th^fe animals ; and I found 
 this phenomenon extraordinary ; but having 
 
 remarked 
 
AFRICA. 247 
 
 remarked that the ground upon which we then 
 were had ahnoft the fame tint ; and reflecliog 
 that the elephant is fond of Vv^allowing in moift 
 and raarfliy places, and even fpends a part of 
 its time in this manner, I doubted whether 
 this colour could be owing to any other caufe, 
 and whether it was not purely factitious. 
 
 Next morning, however, I was better con- 
 vinced, when, on returning to the wood witli 
 my people, I found the elephant dead. Every 
 body was perfuaded that our neighbours were 
 deceived ; and though they had mentioned that 
 it was dangerous to eat of this fpecies, they cut 
 off the trunk for me,andreferved forthemfelves 
 the other parts of the animah I afterwards met 
 feveral planters, who believed alfo that there 
 were red elephants; and Vs^hatever pains I took 
 to free them from their error, I could not 
 convince them ; fo much were they prejudiced 
 in favour of their own opinion. 
 
 The one I killed, which was a female, was 
 nine feet three inches in height : one of its 
 tufks weighed thirteen pounds, and the other 
 ten. The elephant, whether male or female, 
 has always the left tufk (horter and flenderer 
 than the right ; it is alfo more fmooth and 
 ihining. To account for this diiference it 
 
 R 4 muft 
 
248 TRAVELS IN 
 
 muft be obferved, as I have already faid, that 
 it is always from left to right that the animal 
 conveys its food with its trunk to its mouth. 
 The brambles or branches on which it feeds 
 occafion a continual fridion againft that tufk, 
 whilft the right is fcarcely ever touched: befides, 
 it is with the fame tufk that it is accuftomed to 
 found the earth ; and by the fize of the holes 
 which it makes one may judge of its bulk. 
 
 When I defcribe the elephant, I fhall fpeak 
 of its manners, paffions and taftes ; and on 
 this fubjed 1 fhall advance nothing but what 
 I have feen. 
 
 I began to take great pleafure in this kind 
 of hunting, which I found much lefs danger-^ 
 ous than amufing. I could not then conceive, 
 nor have I been fmce able to comprehend, 
 why authors and travellers have filled with fo 
 many falfehoods the relations which they have 
 written of the ftrength and fagacity of thefe 
 animals ; and given fcope to their im.aginations 
 refpefting the dangers to which thofe who 
 purfue them are expofed. It muft indeed be 
 allowed that, if any one is fo thoughtlefs and 
 fool-hardy as to attack an elephant on plain 
 open ground, he is certain of being deftroyed 
 if he miffes his aim; but if the hunter knows 
 
 J* hov/ 
 
AFRICA. 249 
 
 how to take his advantages, all the flrengtli 
 of the animal muft yield to his coolnefs and 
 addrefs. I confels that the appearance of an 
 elephant caufes an aftoniihment which at firft 
 renders one almoft ftupid ; it is awful and ter- 
 rible ; but, with a little courage and com- 
 pofure, one foon becomes accuftomed to its 
 afpedl. Before he attempts this grand kind of 
 hunting, a prudent man fhould endeavour to 
 examine the charadler, the gait, and the re- 
 fources of the animal ; and he ought, above 
 all, according to eircumftances, to fecure fome 
 places of retreat, to fhelter him from danger, 
 in cafe he fliould be purfued after having 
 miffed* By means of thefe precautions, this 
 fpecies of hunting is only an amufmg exer- 
 cife ; a game in which there is fifty to one to 
 be laid in favour of the playei\ 
 
 Whilft I remained in this canton I varied 
 my encampments as well as my occupations ; 
 but I always was much attached to the de- 
 lightful banks of the Gamtoos. I here made 
 an ample harveft of rarities, and my colledlion 
 increafed very fenfibly. 
 
 Ori the nth of September, at fix in the 
 :norning, we decamped. I had informed the 
 
 neigh- 
 
^5o TRAVELS IN 
 
 neighbouriug horde of my intention, and It 
 was with the utmoft regret that they faw us 
 depart. As for me, I could not leave them 
 without being fenfibiy afFeded. Thefe good 
 people had infpired me with a very ftrong at- 
 tachment. " Can fo much mildnefs and fim- 
 " plicity," faid I, " excite fo great contempt ? 
 *' Are thefe then the favages of Africa, who 
 ** thirft after the blood of Europeans, and who 
 ** cannot be approached without horror?" This 
 goodnefs and affability gave me the greater 
 confidence, as I was then really in the midft 
 of a defart, and as nothing feemed to threaten 
 me with danger in future. All this country, 
 which is inhabited only by hordes of the 
 Gonaquas, differs eJTentially from that belong- 
 ing to the Hottentots of the colony. Thefe 
 people have no direct intercourfe one with an- 
 other : ' the former are csahd Javage, Hottentots^ 
 Before I proceed any farther I ihall make a 
 few obfervations, without which one could 
 only form very imperfed: ideas refpeding 
 them. 
 
 They no longer compofe, as formerly, one 
 nation, uniform in their manners, cuftoms, 
 and purfuits. The eftablifhment of the Dutch 
 
 colony 
 
AFRICA. 25! 
 
 CQlony was a fatal epoch, which difunited 
 them all, and occafioned thofe differences by 
 which they are at prefent diftinguilhed. 
 
 In 1652, when Riebeck the furgeon, on 
 his return from India, opened the eyes of the 
 Direitors of the Company refpedting the im- 
 portance of an eftablifhment at the Cape, they 
 wifely thought that fach an enterprife could 
 not be better executed than by the genius 
 which had planned it. Furnifhed therefore- 
 wrth ample powers, and being provided with 
 provifions, and every thing that could con- 
 tribute to the fuccefs of his projed;, Riebeck 
 foon arrived at Table Bay. Like an able 
 politician, and a fkilfui negociator, he em- 
 ployed every method in his power to fecure 
 the friendfhip of the Hottentots ; and he co- 
 vered with honey the edge of the poifoned 
 bowl. Gained over by powerful allurements, 
 thefe favages, the unlimited mafters of all this 
 part of Africa, did not perceive how many of 
 their rights, and how much authority, . repofe, 
 and happinefs, this guilty profanation deprived 
 them of. Indolent by nature, true citizens of 
 the world, and little addided to agriculture, 
 they Were not uneafy that ftrangers fhould 
 feize on a fmall corner of ufelefs land, v\^hich 
 
 was 
 
452 TRAVELS IN 
 
 %var, often uninhabited. They thought that 
 whether a little farther, or a little nearer, it 
 was of no importance where their flocks, the 
 only riches worthy of engaging their atten- 
 tion, fought for their food, provided they 
 could find it. The avaricious policy of the 
 Dutch had a view of great hopes from fo 
 peaceful a beginning ; and as it is readier, 
 and knows better than any other to embrace 
 the advantages offered it by fortune, it did not 
 fail to finifh the work, by holding out two 
 veiy feducing allurements to the Hottentots — ' 
 tobacco and itrong liquors. From that mo- 
 ment thefe unhappy favages bid adieu to their 
 liberty, and to that pride ^vhich is infpired 
 by a fenfe of thofe rights which mankind in- 
 herit from nature. Attracted by thefe.two 
 baits, they approached as near as they could 
 to the fource from which they received them; 
 whilft the Dutch, who for a pipe of tobacco, 
 or a glafs of brandy, could procure an ox, 
 paid every attention in their power to fo valu- 
 able neighbours. The colony infenfibly in- 
 creafmg, and acquiring more flrength, that 
 formidable power which dilated laws to all 
 this part of Africa, and removed to a great 
 diflance every thing that attempted to oppofe 
 
 its 
 
AFRICA. 253 
 
 its eager ambition, was feen to rife on foun- 
 dations that could no longer be fbaken* 
 The fame of its profperity was foon fpread, 
 and drew thither every day a number of new 
 fettlers. It may be eafily judged that, ac- 
 cording to the ufual practice, founded upon 
 a logic which deftroys the laws of property, 
 fo facred and fo refpeftable, the will of the 
 ftronger party was a fufficient title for it to 
 extend its poffeffions. The Dutch feized ir>- 
 difcriminately at feveral times, and even 
 without having occafion for them, on all the 
 lands which government, or individuals fa- 
 voured by government^ thought proper or 
 found convenient. 
 
 The HottentotSj thus confined, prefled, and 
 harafled on all fides, divided themfelves, and 
 purfued plans entirely oppofite. Thofe who 
 were Hill interefted in the prefervation of their 
 flock^, penetrated among the mountains to- 
 wards the north and nortli-eall ; but thefe were 
 the fewer number. The reft, ruined by. a few 
 glafTes of brandy, and a few rolls of tobacco, 
 impoverifhed and ftripped of every thing, did 
 not think of quitting their country ; but ab- 
 folutely renouncing their manners, as well as 
 their ancient and happy condition^ of which 
 
 thev 
 
254 TRAVELS IN 
 
 they have no remembrance at prefent, they 
 bafely fold their fervices to the whites, who 
 of fubmiffive ftrangers having fuddenly be- 
 come haughty mafters and enterprifmg plant- 
 ers, have not fufficient hands to turn to ad- 
 vantage their immenfe riches ; and who eafe 
 themfelves of the painful and multiplied la- 
 bours requifite on their plantations, by laying 
 them upon thefe unfortunate Hottentots, more 
 and more degenerated and corrupted. 
 
 A few paltry and miferable hordes hav6 
 indeed eftabliflied themfelves, and live as they 
 can, in different cantons of the colony ; but 
 they have not even the power of choofing 
 their own chief. As they are in the diftrift 
 of government, and under its authority, the 
 right of naming him belongs entirely to the 
 governor. The perfon whom he choofes re- 
 pairs to the tov/n, and receives a large cane, 
 much like that of our couriers ; but with this 
 difference, that the knob of it is only of pure 
 copper: after which a crefcent or gorget, 
 formed of the fame metal, upon which is en- 
 graven in large letters the word capitein^ is 
 put round his neck as a badge of his dignity. 
 From that moment his melancholy horde, 
 which for a long time has loft its national 
 J name* 
 
AFRICA. isS 
 
 name, aflumes that of the new chief who has 
 been fet over it. They will then fay, for 
 example, the horde of captain Kees, who be- 
 comes to the governor a new creature, a new 
 fpy, and a new Have, and to his own country-* 
 men a new tyrant. 
 
 The governor himfelf is never perfonally 
 acquainted with thofe v/hom he appoints. It 
 is generally the planter neareft the horde who 
 folicits and determines the nomination for one 
 of his own creatures j becaufe he trufts that a 
 low perfon whom he has in this manner pa- 
 tronized will not be ungrateful, and that he 
 will have all his vaffals ready at his fervice 
 when neceffity may require. Thus without 
 any preliminary information, and even with- 
 out any regard to juftice, a helplefs and feeble 
 horde are obliged to receive laxvs from a maa 
 often incapable of commanding them ; and 
 thus does the intereft of one individual prevail 
 over the general good both in great and little 
 affairs : and it is thus that the revolutions of a 
 republic, and the puerile election of the fyndia 
 of a village, proceeding from the fame princi- 
 ple, are equally fimilar in their effeds. 
 
 Such in general are the Hottentots known 
 under the name of the Hottentots of the Cape, 
 
 or 
 
2S^ TRAVELS IN 
 
 or Hottentots of the colonies : but we muft 
 not confound with them the favage Hotten- 
 tots, who by way of derifion are called the 
 Jackal-Hottentots ; and who, far removed from 
 ihe arbitrary Dutch government, ftill preferve 
 in the defart which they inhabit all the purity 
 of their primitive manners. 
 
 I was now arrived at that point in my 
 journey, where having no more intercourfe 
 with the former, whom I had left behind me^ 
 I found myfelf in the middle of the latter ; 
 but it is not neceffary that I ihould here enter 
 particularly into all the different marks by 
 which they are diftinguifhed. To convey 
 fome idea of the charafter of the favage Hot- 
 tentots, and of what I had to expert from 
 them, it will be fufficient to offer one remark, 
 which is a truth confirmed by experience. In 
 all countries wherever the favages are abfo- 
 lutely feparated from civilized nations, and 
 live fequeftered, their manners are mild ; but 
 they change and become corrupted the nearer 
 they approach them. When the Hottentots 
 live amongft them, it is very rare that they do 
 not become monfters. This affertion, how- 
 ever mortifying it may be, is neverthelefs a 
 true principle, v/hich is fcarcely liable to one 
 exception. When to the northward of the 
 
 Cape 
 
AFRICA. 
 
 ^S7 
 
 Cape I found myfelf under the tropic, among 
 remote nations ; when I faw whole hordes 
 furround me with figns of furprife, and of the 
 moft childiih curiofity, and, approaching me 
 with confidence, ftroke my beard, my hair, and 
 my face with their hands — " I have nothing 
 ** to fear from thefe people,'* faid I to myfelf; 
 " this is the firft time they ever faw a white 
 
 * man. 
 
 I have entered into this dlgreffion with the 
 greater readinefs, as it is of fome importance 
 to fix the reader's attention to this part, which 
 is the moft interefting of all my excurfions and 
 travels. I eagerly return to it ; and I always 
 experience a new pleafure in relating thefe 
 fimple but delightful adventures. 
 
 The whole horde, who could with difficulty 
 feparate from me, accompanied me as far as the 
 river Louri^ four leagues from the Gamtoos ; 
 where we flopped to take leave of our good 
 friends, and to regale them with fome glaffes of 
 brandy, and a few pipes of tobacco. The wo- 
 men, who during my refidence in the neigh- 
 bourhood of their kraals had attached them- 
 felves to my Hottentots, and who perhaps re- 
 gretted a little the lofs of my kitchin, abfo- 
 lutely infilled upon following us. But I had 
 
 Vol. I. S oftea 
 
258 TRAVELS IN 
 
 often remarked, though I pretended not to ob* 
 feve it, that my people had feveral times quai*- 
 relled; and the confequence was, that they had 
 relaxed in their fervice : on this account I ob- 
 ftinately perfifted in refufing to fuffer thefe 
 women to accompany us, or to remain "with 
 me. One only appeared to me to be very 
 adive : I found that fhe took great care of my 
 cows and my goats, and that ihe walhed my 
 linen well. Thefe reafons concerned my own 
 perfon ; but another motive pleaded very 
 powerfully in her favour. My faithful Klaas 
 had conceived a violent affedtion for her : to 
 feparate them would have been to tear two 
 hearts at once, to be feverc without any ad- 
 vantage, and to be cruel towards one who 
 would have facriiiced his life forme on every 
 occafion. By a policy, therefore, contrary 
 to that which any other V70uld have adopted^ 
 I refolved to retain her. This maik of pre- 
 ference iliewed how far I diftinguifhed Klaaa 
 from his companions : whether it proceeded 
 from injuftice or weaknefs, I could not refill 
 the delire of making at leaft one happy, fmce 
 all could not be fo ; and I afterwards had no 
 caufe to repent of my condud. To this wo- 
 man I gave the name of RageL Thofe fervices 
 I which 
 
AFRICA. 259 
 
 which fhe had always performed were afligned 
 to her ; and fhe attended me every where till 
 the end of my journey. 
 
 After the departure of the horde, we con- 
 tinued our route ; but a violent ftorm obliged 
 us to flop at Galgebos, It was five in the after- 
 noon when we halted : the place was far from 
 being deftitute of beauties, and I would gladly 
 have remained here fome time ; but we could 
 not find a fingle rivulet. We therefore croffed 
 the river Van-Staade^ at the diftance of two 
 leagues ; and unyoked at feven on the borders 
 of a lake, where we could procure water fufE* 
 cient for our whole caravan. 
 
 To how many ufeful procelTes and inven- 
 tions does not chance fometimes give birth ! 
 It often ferves us better, and by means much 
 more fimple, than any of thofe fuggefled by 
 our own lights, our combinations, or our 
 knowledge. Of this truth I received a con- 
 vincing proof even in the place in which I 
 had flopped. 
 
 The horde from whom I feparated had 
 
 come in the morning to bring to my camp a 
 
 , large fupply of milk; v^ith which I filled a 
 
 pitcher almoft to the brim, and placed it in 
 
 S 2 my 
 
TRAVELS IN 
 
 my waggon. Intending to ufe It on my jour- 
 ney for quenching my thirft. The ftorm by 
 which we were avertaken had fo cooled me^ 
 chat I did not touch it during the day : but in 
 the evening, after our fires were kindled, be^ 
 ing defirous of dlftributing it among my peo-^ 
 pie, I found that It was become four. I there^ 
 fore ordered it to be put into a veffel to regale 
 my dogs ; but I was much aftonifhtd to find 
 it converted Into moft excellent and beautiful 
 butter, for which I was Indebted to the jolting 
 of my waggon. This difcovery, which I 
 afterwards ptit In practice during the reft of 
 my journey,, procured me, befides frefh but* 
 ter, a moft falutary fupply of buttermilk^ 
 which I frequently made ufe of, and which 
 doubtlefs contributed to preferve me vigorous 
 and in good health. 
 
 The day following we were prevented from 
 again fetting out by a fecond ftorm, which 
 was really dreadful. The hail that fell was as 
 large as pullets eggs ; and my cattle fnffered fo^ 
 much, that I was under great uneafinefs for 
 them. One of my jfhe goats was fo feverely 
 wounded, that I was obliged to kill herx 
 this indeed was a real lofs, I regretted her 
 
 much^, 
 
AFRICA, iSn 
 
 ^uch, for fhe wa^ about to bring forth 
 young. 
 
 The weather at length changing, we quit- 
 led our laTce ; and about noon, after croffing 
 two rivers, the great and the little Swaar-Kops, 
 I ordered my oxen to be unyoked on the banks 
 of the latter. Having obferved the prints of 
 fome animal's feet with which I was not ac- 
 quainted, my people, to whom I fhewed 
 them., affured me that they were not thofe of 
 the rhinoceros. Whilft my camp was arrang- 
 ing, I followed thefe traces ; but night coming 
 on made me lofe them, and I returned with^ 
 out having feen any thing. On this river, 
 which was pretty confiderable, we found ano- 
 th.Qv horde of favages, The kraal was com- 
 pofed of nine or ten huts, inhabited only by 
 fifty or fixty perfons at moft. Thefe people 
 advifed me not to crafs the river Boffiman, 
 which paiTes near this place: they faid it 
 would be much better to turn off to the left, 
 .^nd to pufh farther into the interior part ef the 
 country, to avoid a numerous troop of 
 Caffres, who often alarmed that canton, and 
 carried fire and fword along with them ; that 
 fiothlng was feen every v^rhere around but dif- 
 ^rder and pillage, fields ravaged, and habi- 
 
 § 3 tations 
 
^62 TRAVELS IN 
 
 tions laid wafte and reduced to aflies ; that 
 the proprietors, to avoid fudden and certain 
 death, had abandoned their pofleffions, drag- 
 ging behind them a few feeble remains of 
 their flocks ; and that, in a word, I ought not 
 to approach the country of CaiTraria. So 
 alarming a caution, I muft own, at firft 
 ftartled me a little : I immediately aifembled 
 my people, and we deliberated what plan it 
 would be moft prudent to purfue. I wavS 
 very defirous of founding the difpofition of 
 every one. Their unanimous opinion, which 
 coincided very well with my private intention, 
 was, that we fhould firft avoid, but not in fuch 
 a manner as to retard us too much, this dan- 
 gerous troop of CafFres; that, as we were very 
 near them, we ought always to be on our 
 guard both night and day ; that, to prevent 
 being furprifed, we fhould never encamp but 
 in the open country ; that our oxen, when 
 out at pafture, fhould be proteded by four 
 men, armed with fufees ; that my horfes fhould 
 never quit the ftakes to which they were tied, 
 that in cafe of an alarm they might be always 
 at hand ; and that my large fufee, well loaded, 
 fhould remain at the camp; and that three 
 fhots, fired at ec|ual intervals, fliould be a fig- 
 
 nal 
 
AFRICA. 26:i 
 
 nal for tliofe, who on account of their difFer- 
 ent occupations might be obliged to go to too 
 great a diftance from the common centre to 
 rejoin the main body. 
 
 When we had taken thefe precautions, and 
 given proper inftrudions for their being ob- 
 ferved, I mounted my horfe ; and, followed by 
 two of my people well armed, made a ftridt 
 fearch every where around, to difcover whe- 
 ther any of the CafFres were ranging in the 
 neigbourhood, ready to fire upon the firft 
 that I might fee concealed with a view to 
 furprife us, in cafe I fhould find it impofTible 
 to take him prifoner. Not one however ap- 
 peared. Having advanced a little farther after 
 dinner, I perceived that the river, as far as its 
 mouth, was bordered with prickly trees ; that 
 the ground near it was fandy, and covered with 
 underwood ; and that its environs abounded 
 with game, fbme of which I killed for provi- 
 fion. As we faw no appearance that could 
 give us any uneafinefs, I was convinced we 
 had then nothing to fear from thefe CafFres, 
 faid to be fo terrible. I ordered my camp to 
 be moved next morning, and we quitted the 
 Swaar-Kops. The horde of Hottentots, terri- 
 fied merely by the name of thefe cruel aveng- 
 
 S 4 crsj 
 
^64 TRAVELS IN 
 
 ers, propofed that we fliould eflablifli ourfelves 
 at a confiderable diftance thence, that we 
 might not be in the neighbourhood of Caffra* 
 ria; and, when they faw me depart, they 
 afked permiffion to follow me, and to put 
 themfelves under the proteftion of my camp. 
 This requeft I readily complied with ; and 
 though at bottom I was overjoyed at their 
 propofal, I artfully made a merit of it, as much 
 with a defign to keep them dependant upon 
 me, as to give fpirits to my people by this for- 
 midable body, and to fupport their courage. 
 Nothing more fortunate could have occurred; 
 I reinforced my troop ; and, befides the parti- 
 cular refources of this horde, I had the ad van-- 
 tage of my artillery, which could oppofe whole 
 clouds of affagays*, and baffle all the efforts 
 of an army of favages, fliould I be well fecond« 
 ed. In lefs than two hours all the huts were 
 taken down and packed up, and with other 
 effefts put on the backs of pur fpare oxen. 
 
 I iirft made the half of the men belonging 
 to this horde fet out before me, with all their 
 cattle, giving them two of my people well 
 armed to efcort them. They carried with 
 
 . *A kind of lance which the CafFres ufe with much 
 dexterity, 
 
 them 
 
AFRICA, 26s 
 
 tiiem alfo one of my horles ; that, in cafe of 
 any accident, they might be able to give mc 
 earlier intelligence of it. 
 
 An hour after I ordered my relays, cows, 
 Iheep, goats, and all the v/omen of the horde, 
 with their children mounted upon their oxen, 
 to follow them, and a party of their men to 
 march behind. This company was efcorted 
 alfo by fix of my chafTeurs. My three carriages, 
 with the reft of my people, clofed the rear, I 
 myfelf, mounted on my beft horfe, in order that 
 I might have my eye every where, rode back- 
 wards and forwards on the wings, and from 
 right to left, continually afraid of being fud- 
 denly furprifed ; for I can fafely affert that, 
 had the leader been once difmounted, the reft 
 of the caravan Vv^ould have been expofed to the 
 moft horrid butchery, and m.uft have become 
 the prey of the moment. 
 
 I was completely armedo In the fide pockets 
 of my breeches I carried a pair of double-bar- 
 relled piftols ; I had another pair of the fame 
 kind at my girdle ; m.y double-barrelled fufce 
 was flung at the the bow of my faddle ; and a 
 large fabre hung by my fide, and a poniard 
 or dagger from the button-hole of my veft : I 
 could therefore fire ten times almcft in a 
 
 c moment. 
 
266 TRAVELS IN 
 
 moment. This arfenal incommoded me con- 
 fiderably at firft ; but I never quitted it, both 
 on account of my own fafety, and becaufe by 
 this precaution I feemed to increafe the con- 
 fidence of my people. My arms, doubtleis, 
 appeared to them to correfpond with my refo- 
 lutions; and, full of this idea, each purfued 
 his way with the utmoft compofure, leaving 
 to me the care of defending them. 
 
 This caravan on its march exhibited a fin- 
 gular and amufing fpedlacle — I may even fay 
 grand. The turns which it was obliged to 
 make in following the windings of the bufhes 
 and rocks, continually gave it new forms ; and 
 thefe points of view varied every inftant. 
 Sometimes it entirely difappeared from my 
 fight ; and all of a fudden, from the fummit 
 of a fmail eminence, I would again difcover 
 at a diftance my van-guard fiowly advancing 
 towards a mountain ; while the main body, 
 who without confufion, and in firie order, 
 were following the traces of thofe who had 
 preceded them, was almoft below me. The 
 women fuckled their children, and gave them 
 food and drink featcd on their oxen by them; 
 fome wept, others fang or laughed ; and the 
 men, fmoking a focia! pipe, converfed together, 
 
 having 
 
AFRICA. C67 
 
 having no longer the appearance of people 
 terrified at the approach of an enemy. 
 
 Entertaining a little more uneafmefs than 
 thefe walking machines, I was fully fenfible of 
 my critical fituation ; and on the back of my 
 beaft indulged in philofophical reveries. At 
 the diftance of three thoufand leagues from 
 Paris, the only perfon of my fpecies among 
 fo many natives, furrounded and watched by 
 the moft ferocious animals, I could not help 
 being filled with admiration, to fee myfelf 
 conducing, for the firfl: time, in the defarts 
 of Africa, a favage horde, who, fubmitting 
 voluntarily to my orders, executed them blind- 
 ly, and committed entirely to me the care of 
 their prefervation. Taken colledtively, I had 
 nothing to fear from them ; neverthelefs I faw 
 fome among them who would have made me 
 tremble, if, in fingle combat, ftrength alone 
 had been to decide the conteft : but at bottom 
 I was fully convinced, that here, as well as 
 elfewhere, it was not the ilrongeil but the moft 
 fkilful that commanded. 
 
 We had not advanced very far, when my 
 (dogs, which were ranging through the bullies 
 on every fide, began to ftop and to bark. My 
 companions were inftantly filled with terror ; 
 
 imagining 
 
^6$ TRAVELS IN 
 
 imagining that we had fallen in with fomc 
 CaiTres, placed in ambufh to Intercept us; but 
 I paid very little attention to their abfurd rea- 
 foning. I thought it was impoffible that my 
 advanced guard could have paffed, without be-^ 
 5ng attacked ; and I perceived that they were 
 peaceably purfuing their journey, without the 
 lead appearance of diforder. I therefore put 
 fpurs to my horfe ; and advancing through the 
 bufhes, was much aftoniihed to find only a por- 
 cupine, furrounded by my dogs, from which it 
 was endeavouring to defend itfelf. I imme- 
 diately killed it ; and fearing left the report of 
 my muiket might lead my people into au 
 error and induce them to take fome rafh ftep, 
 I returned towards them, and by ridiculing 
 their timidity convinced them that I was not 
 daunted by trifles. 
 
 The porcupine defends itfelf in a wonderful 
 manner. Its quills flielter it from every at- 
 tempt; and, when a dog approaches, it artfully 
 eludes him, makes its attack on his flank, 
 and, when he is once wounded he never again 
 returns to the charge. Some of the quills al- 
 ways remain flicking in his flefh, which damp 
 his courage, and caufe him to betake himfelf 
 10 flight. One of my Ilottentots, who had 
 
 l^eeii 
 
AFRICA. 269 
 
 been wounded in the leg by one of them, was 
 ill for more than fix months. 
 
 Mr. Mallard, an officer belonging to the 
 regiment of Pondicherry, at the Cape of Good 
 Hope, being pricked in hunting one of thefe 
 animals, had nearly loft his leg by the wound; 
 and, notwithftanding all the care that was taken 
 of him, he fuffered dreadful tortures for more 
 than four months, during the firft of which he 
 was confined to his bed. 
 
 The porcupine, however, is excellent eat- 
 ing and its flefh is often ferved up on the 
 genteeleft tables at the Cape, after it has been 
 carefully fmoked. 
 
 After travelling an hour and a half, I or- 
 dered my caravan to halt ; but we flopped no 
 longer than was neceflary to collect a fuffi- 
 cient provifion of fait on the borders of a 
 brackifh lake which we found in our way; 
 and, two leagues farther, I advanced before the 
 reft, to vlfit a plantation which I perceived on 
 our left. I found that it had been plundered 
 and burnt by the Caffres; for nothing re- 
 mained of it but feme pieces of the walls 
 black with fmoke, and calcined by the flames: 
 a very difmal appearance in the bofom of a 
 defart ! 
 
 An 
 
2^0 TRAVELS IN 
 
 An hout after, my advanced guard WaS 
 flopped by the Kouga, on the banks of which 
 we erected our tents. 
 
 The Kouga, properly fpeaking, is only a 
 rivulet, but we found fcarcely any water in it i 
 there was only a fmall quantity in fome hol- 
 low places, in which we caught abundance of 
 excellent tortoifes, though of a very fmall fize; 
 the largeft did not weigh above three pounds* 
 Before the commencement of night I ordered 
 an abbatis to be conftrud;ed of the branches of 
 trees, to form a defence round my cattle : and^ 
 whilft this was executing the women were 
 employed in colled:ing whatever dry wood 
 they cQuld find in the neighbourhood, to fup- 
 ply us with fuel ; as it was indifpenfably necef- 
 fary to kindle fires in different places, left we 
 fliould be furprifed by the CaflFres, or by 
 lions, which were now very common in thefe 
 cantons. We remained here till the 20th, 
 when we began to be in want of provifions ; 
 but I was fo fortunate as to kill three buffaloes 
 and two bubales. On the banks of the rivulet 
 I found fome Guinea-hens, exadtly like thofe 
 of Europe. When boiled a long time, they 
 were excellent ; but when roafted or broiled, 
 they were good for nothing. They were ap- 
 parently 
 
AFRICA. 271 
 
 parently too old. I found alfo fome new 
 fpecies of very pretty birds ; and, among 
 others, a barbet, of which I fhall give fome 
 coloured figures. 
 
 After this wc went up the banks of the 
 Kouga, ftill in the fame order as we had 
 hitherto obferved; but w^ehad fcarcely travel- 
 led an hour, when my advanced guard flop- 
 ping, fent to inform me that they had dif- 
 covered the prints of men's feet. Struck with 
 terror, they imagined them to be the traces of 
 the CafFres, and they now faw nothing, around 
 them but thefe favages. Having haftened to 
 the fpot, I obferved that the traces feemed 
 very frefh; and as this difcovery began now 
 to become very ferious, I was fenfible that we 
 ought to put ourfelves in the beft ftate of 
 defence, without lofs of time. I therefore 
 ordered the whole caravan to haltj and^ 
 whilft my people were bufily employed in 
 forming a fence round the oxen, and in ar- 
 ranging my camp, followed by my two in- 
 trepid chafleurs, I fet out to reconnoitre. After 
 following the traces for an hour, they con- 
 ducted us to a place where we found the re- 
 mains of a fire not quite extinguifhed, and 
 a few mutton bones, which bad been lately 
 
 gnawed. 
 
ii72 TRAVELS IN 
 
 gnawed. From the fire it appeared evident 
 that the favages who had flopped here, had 
 atfo pafled the night on the fame fpot ; but, 
 on feeing the gnawed bones, I could fcarcely 
 allow myfelf to believe that they had been 
 CafFres, becaufe thefe people never breed 
 iheep. It was, however, poflible that they 
 might have procured them by plunder, or 
 have found them among their enemies. During 
 the uncertainty Into which thefe refleftions had 
 thrown me, I refolved to advance ftill farther ; 
 "Until being at length tired of traverfing and 
 ranging the country, finding that thefe traces 
 led us too far from our route, and conduced us 
 to one diredly oppofite to that which we ought 
 to purfue, I returned to my camp. The night 
 follov/ing we met v/ith little difturbance ; but 
 the next day'a moft dreadful ftorm of rain 
 obliged us to remain clofely fhutupin our tents; 
 and the day after we were under the difagree- 
 able neceifity of croffing fourteen times fucceC- 
 lively the unlucky Kouga, which every quarter 
 of an hour flopped our journey, and above all 
 things fliook my carriages dreadfully upon the 
 ftones and fragments of rock which it carried 
 along with it in its courfe. This fatiguing in- 
 terruption, fo often repeated, compelled us to 
 
 pafs 
 
AFRICA. Q.JI 
 
 pafs the niglit near a fmall torrent called Drooge 
 Rivicr^ the Dry Rivier : for our cattle were 
 fo haraffed that they were not in a condition 
 to carry us any farther ; and the clrcumftances 
 of the moment did not permit us to make long 
 marches. Whenever we halted, a great deal 
 of time was neceflary to arrange our camp ; 
 to prepare food for about an hundred animals; 
 to boil provifions for a ftill greater number 
 of people ; to watch over the fafety of all 
 thefe individuals ; to collect wood for making 
 fires, and to keep them burning during the 
 whole night. Thefe details became very la- 
 borious ; but they were neverthelefs indif- 
 penfable. 
 
 That evening our dogs thought proper to be 
 our purveyors. The whole country was filled 
 with Guinea-fowls which at fun-fet perched 
 in hundreds on the trees that furrounded us, 
 in order to pafs the night. They made a 
 continual and difagrceable cackling : but it 
 was of fome ufe to us, for thefe fimple birds 
 difcovered themfclves by it ; and our dogs, 
 which heard them, beean to rati round and 
 to bark at the bottoms of the trees where they 
 were feated. Thefe Guinea-fowls endeavoured 
 to make their efcape ; but the weight of their. 
 
 Vol. I. T bodies 
 
^74 TRAVELS IN 
 
 bodies, and the ihortncfs of their wings, not 
 permitting them to fly above the trees, and be- 
 ing obUged on this account to run and to leap 
 on the ground, our dogs watched for them 
 in their paflage ; ?.nd, feizing them with their 
 teeth, foon deftroyed them. This method of 
 hunting procured us abundance of thefe ani- 
 mals, without wafting a fmgle grain of powder. 
 Next morning I wifhed topurfuethefame plan; 
 but thefe birds, better inftrufted by the fate 
 of the preceding evening, did not defcend. 
 One difcharge, hovv'ever, of my fufee, pro- 
 duced all the effect I expected. 
 
 During the night, we heard the diftant 
 roaring of fome lions. 
 
 On the 23d, after a march of fome hours, 
 we arrived at the large and beautiful river of 
 Sofidag, Its channel was very full ; the wea- 
 ther feemed to threaten rain ; and the dread of 
 being again flopped by an inundation, made 
 lis refolve to crofs it on rafts. Having oi'dered 
 a quantity of wood neceffary for this purpofe 
 to be cut down, and w^hat might be requifite 
 for inclofing our cattle in the ufual manner, 
 when we fhould encamp, I embarked my car- 
 riages piece by piece, with the greaterpartof my 
 effefts, and the half of my people, who erefted 
 2 our 
 
A F R I C A. 275 
 
 ouf tents on the other fide, under the dh-edtion 
 of Swanepoel. The cattle pafTed by fwim- 
 ming, as they had before done on the like oc- 
 cafions ; and the following day I alfo croffed 
 the torrent with the remainder of my company 
 and effed:s. The preparation, execution, and 
 arrangement of all thefe matters, employed us 
 till the latter part of the month. 
 
 In the interval I procured feveral birds, and 
 I caufed feveral koedoes to be faked. But I 
 was in great danger of lofmg my dear Kees« 
 The account of this accident v\dll convey a 
 better idea of my fimple and uniform manner 
 of paffing my time than any thing elfe I could 
 fay on the fubject. 
 
 Every thing was got ready for dinner ; and 
 I was dreffing upon a plate fome dry haricots 
 which I had juft fried, when I heard the voice 
 of a bird with which I was not at all acquainted. 
 Forgetting in a moment both my cookery 
 and my dinner, I fnatched up my fufee, and 
 hurried from my tent. xA.t the end of half 
 an hour, I returned perfe£lly fatisfied with 
 my expedition, and holding my bird in my 
 hand; but I was much furprifed, on entering 
 my tent, not to find a fingle bean on my table. 
 This was a trick of Kees. I had correded him 
 
 T 2 pretty 
 
276 TRAVELS IN 
 
 pretty feverely, the evening before, for robbing 
 me of my fupper ; and I did not imagine that 
 he would have fo foon forgot his punifhment, 
 as to be guilty of this new fault almoft imme- 
 diately after it. Pie had however difappeared ; 
 but as he always waited for the return of night, 
 when he had committed any error, before 
 he again made his appearance, I well knew^ 
 that he could not efcape me. It wms generally 
 at the time when I was drinking tea that he 
 glided in, without noife, and took his ftation 
 near me, in his accuftomed place, with an 
 air of innocence, as if nothing had happen- 
 ed. That evening he did not appear; and next 
 morning, as no one had feen him, I began to 
 be very uneafy, and to be appreheniive that 
 he had deferted me entirely. This lofs would 
 have been the more diftrefling, as, befides 
 the amufement he afforded me, he was really of 
 great utility, and rendered me fuch fervices 
 that his place could not have been fupplied 
 by another. On the third day, however, 
 one of my people, who had been in fearch 
 of w^ater, allured me that he had feen him in 
 the neighbourhood ; but that lie had hid 
 himfelf as foon as he found that he was difco- 
 vered. Setting out immediately in queft of 
 
 him* 
 
AFRICA, 
 
 2/7 
 
 , liim, I fearched all the neighbourhood with 
 my dogs» All of a fudden hearuig a cry like 
 that which he ufued to fend forth when I re- 
 turned from hunting, and when 1 would not 
 carry him along with me, I flopped ; and call- 
 ing my eyes every where around, I at length 
 perceived him, half concealed, behind a large 
 branch in the middle of a tree. I called him 
 in a familiar manner, and coaxed him as much 
 as I could to defcend and come to me ; but as 
 he feemed not inclined to truft to thefe marks 
 of my friendfhip, and of the joy which I con-, 
 ceived on meeting with him, I was under the 
 neceffity of climbing the tree. When I had 
 reached the fpot wdiere he was, he fufFered me 
 ^o lay hold of him; while fear and pleafure 
 were alternately painted in his eyes, and ex- 
 preffed by his geftiires. Soon after I returned 
 to my camp, where he feemed to w^ait for his 
 fate ; and where I c^ine to a determination 
 refpedlng him. I thought at hril: that I ought 
 to tie him up; but by this I (hould have been 
 deprived of his amufingtriek^^ I refolved there- 
 fore to lliew my generofity towards him, and not 
 to treat him wdth feverity. A fecond corrcdion 
 would not have altered his difpofition; and I 
 ireflefted that he had perhaps more than once 
 
 T 3 received 
 
278 TRAVELS IN 
 
 received it very improperly; for his reputation, 
 which gave a colour of probability to every 
 accufation made again ft him, hurt him very 
 much in my opinion, and rendered me unjuft, 
 efpecially when I was in bad humour. Seve- 
 ral petty thefts, which a fondnefs for dainties 
 caufed my Hottentots to commit, v^^ere often 
 laid upon him; and on this account poor Kees 
 v/as many times blamed without caufe. 
 
 The river Sondag has its fource in high 
 mountains, which are almoft always covered 
 with fnow ; on which account they are named 
 SnoW'-Bergen^ or the mountains of fnow. I 
 faw them on my left towards the north. This 
 river, enlarged by various fmall ftreams which 
 run into it, difcharges itfelf into the fea at 
 the diftance of ten leagues from the place 
 where I then was. 
 
 On the ill of October we purfued our route 
 in the ufual order. After travelling fevea 
 hours, we repofed ourfelves for a moment 
 under the ruins of a habitation deferted like 
 the former, and no lefs difmal and melancho- 
 ly. At four in the afternoon we halted at a 
 lake; and it was very fortunate for us that we 
 had two large fires that night, as two lions 
 and fome hyaenas paid us a vifit, which threw 
 
 OUF 
 
AFRICA. 279 
 
 our cattle into great diforder. We were ob- 
 liged to pafs the whole night on our legs. 
 Thefe animals appeared fo ferocious, that we 
 could not drive them away but by - repeated 
 diicharges of our fire arms. 
 
 At the^ break of day we faw fuch numbers 
 of thofe antelopes cdS^t^ fpring-bock^ that I re- 
 folved to employ the whole day in hunting 
 them ; efpecially as our provifions began to 
 fail, and as it was often neceTary to have a 
 freih fupply. The confumption made by all 
 my people was fo great, that a jufl idea can 
 fcarcely be formed of it ; for, by carrying a 
 whole horde and their animals along with me, 
 I had added an additional encumbrance, at 
 which I was fometimes frightened. We 
 were, however, lucky enough to kill feven 
 of thefe antelopes. Though this fpecies are 
 fwift-footed, people on horfeback may eafily 
 come up with them. Being generally col- 
 leaed into flocks, and keeping as clofely to- 
 gether as fheep, they mutually impede each 
 other, which greatly retards them in their 
 courfe : one ball, well direded, may kill two 
 or three of them, and fometimes more. 
 
 Next day we made a forced march : we had 
 found bad water the evening before ; and to 
 
 T A procure 
 
-So TRAVELS IN 
 
 procure better it was neceffary that we fliould 
 fall in with fome arm of the river Sondag. 
 We reached it luckily at four in the afternoon. 
 My oxen had fuffered fo muph from the ex- 
 ceffive heat, that they were unable to proceed 
 farther ; and I was afraid that fame of them 
 would die, though I had taken the precaution 
 of relieving them pften. 
 
 On the 4th we quitted the river entirely ; 
 and proceeded that day only three leagues, ^s 
 the heat was almoft infupportable. My oxen 
 had not then quite recovered from the fatigqe 
 of the evening before. 
 
 On the 5th we fet out at three in the morn- 
 ing ; and at feven we faw another deferted 
 plantation. The proprietors, without doubt, 
 Oppre fifed by fear, had not taken time to fe- 
 cure their effedts from pillage. On the fight 
 of this abode, which was in a perfe^fl ftate, 
 and which exhibited no marks of fire, it ap- 
 peared to me that the inhabitants had been ter- 
 nfied without any caufe. I had the curiofity 
 10 enter the houfe, and I found that I was net 
 deceived in my opinion ; for I obferved no de-^- 
 rangement in any of the furniture, each utenf^ 
 being in its proper place. I permitted none 
 pi my people to touch any thing, of however 
 
 httle 
 
AFRICA. 281 
 
 little value it might be ; but, as the heat was 
 exceffive, I took advantage of the fhade which 
 this building afforded us, in order that we 
 might repofe ourfelves a little. Towards even- 
 ing I prepared to fet out ; and we continued 
 our journey for four hours. 
 
 The day following we pafTed two more de- 
 ferted houfes, which were in the fame flare as 
 thofe feen the evening before ; but, as I was 
 unwilling to flop, I did not vifit them. After 
 a march of four hours, we arrived at the river 
 Fogel^ or bird's river, where we halted, as our 
 oxen were in want of water, and had fcarcelv 
 any thing to eat. At noon the heavens be- 
 came overcaft, and the. fun was entirely hid 
 by very large clouds ; which to me was a iuckv 
 icircumftance, as it gave me an opportunity of 
 advancing a little farther. We hoped to reach 
 Agter-Briiyntjes 'Hoogte \ but, when we came 
 to the bottom of thefe mountains, we met 
 with a pond, which obliged us to encamp, as 
 we very much doubted whether we fliould 
 foon find another. 
 
 During the night the favage Hottentots ob- 
 ferved our fires ; and, as they approached to 
 reconnoitre us, ourdogs, which perceived them, 
 took the alarm, and beean to bark and make a 
 
 dreadful 
 
282 TRAVELS IN 
 
 dreadful noife. On this occafion part of my 
 people, perfiiaded that we were inveiled by 
 Caffres (for I mufl hear repeat that fear made 
 them imagine that they faw CafFres every- 
 where), propofed to leave the camp, and to 
 fhelter themfelves in the bufhes ; as if we 
 Ihould have been in greater fecurity, when 
 feparately concealed in a wretched coppice, 
 than when colled:ed in a body, well armed 
 9,nd refolute. Klaas and I were quite furious. 
 The venerable Swanepoel joined us, with a 
 view of encouraging thefe daftardly fouls ; 
 and he fwore that he would ftand by me 
 whatever might be the event, and that he 
 would fpend the laft drop of his blood in my 
 defence. In the midft of this converfation, 
 and the timid irrefolution of the reft of my 
 company, I heard a voice begging, in broken 
 Dutch, that I would recal my dogs, which I 
 immediately did. When I was fully afTured 
 that thefe people were only Hottentots, I fuf- 
 fered them to approach ; upon which they 
 made their appearance, to the number of fif- 
 teen, men, with feveral women and children. 
 
 They had fet out to remove themfelves from 
 the flames of v/ar ; and I was informed by 
 them that when I palTed the mountain I 
 
 {houl4 
 
AFRICA. 283 
 
 iliould ftlll find feveral deferted habitations. 
 They told me" alfo that the proprietors of thefe 
 difierent hgufes had colleded themfelves into 
 one body, to oppofe the enemy ; but that 
 they had formed a refolutlon of abandoning 
 their country and pofleffions entirely, with a 
 view of getting nearer to the Dutch fettle^ 
 ments ; and that the Caffres, who were fiill 
 in the field, had fworn not to leave one of 
 them remaining. 
 
 ^ I pafied the night In converfation of this 
 nature -, and I learned from thefe people every 
 thing that I wiihed to know : but I was 
 the lefs inclined to confider the CafTres as 
 ferocious animals thirfting after blood, who 
 fpared neither fex, age, nor their neighbours 
 as I was too well acquainted with the planters 
 to confide in their veracity, or to afcribe to 
 them a part of thofe horrid cruelties of which 
 they always affected to complain. 
 
 But w^y fhould a people fo mild as the 
 Hottentots, and who lead a life both peaceable 
 and precarious, be concerned in thefe horrid 
 wars, had they not fufficient caufe for fhew- 
 ing their refentment and revenge ? The 
 CafTres naturally are not a mifchievous peo- 
 ple. They live, like the other favages of thi§ 
 
 part 
 
284 TRAVELS IN 
 
 part of Africa, on the milk with which they 
 are fupplied by their cattle ; and clothe them- 
 felvcs with the fkins of animals. Like the 
 reft, they are indolent by nature, and warlike 
 by neceffity 5 but they are not an odious na- 
 tion, whofe name is calculated to infpire terror. 
 As I was very deurous of being thoroughly in- 
 formed refpedling the motives and rife of thefe 
 atrocious wars, which thus difturbed the tran- 
 quillity of the moft beautiful parts of Africa, 
 thefe honeft people, who had trufted to me 
 with fo much confidence, unbofomed them- 
 felves in the like manner without any referve. 
 They informed me, indeed, that the oppreffion 
 and cruelty of the planters were the only 
 caufe of the war, and that jullice was on the 
 fide of the Gaftres : they told me alfo that the 
 Boflimcn, a kind of vagabond deferters whp 
 belong to no nation, and v»^ho live only by 
 rapine, took advantage of that moment of dif- 
 order to pillage without diftindtion the Caf- 
 fres, the Hottentots, and the planters ; that 
 nothing but the tyrannical behaviour of thefe 
 wretchet? could have made the CafTres include 
 in the general profcription all the Hottentots, 
 whon^ they confidered as fpies attached to the 
 ^vhites, and whom the latter employed to lay 
 4 fuare§, 
 
AFRICA. 285 
 
 fnares for them with more dexterity. This 
 laft circumftance was not void of foundation ; 
 but it could by no means be applied to the 
 more remote hordes. Thus were the inno- 
 cent involved in the common fate of the 
 guilty. But how was it pofTible for favages to 
 make a diftindtion which even civilized nations 
 are not accuftomed to do ? They told me, be- 
 fides, that the Caffres had procured fome fire 
 arms, which they found in thofe plundered 
 houfes, or had taken by furprife from the 
 Hottentots belonging to the colonies. 
 
 I was, in fhort, informed in the moll: mi- 
 nute manner of every thing that had paflcd, of 
 the attacks made, and the battles fought, in 
 which, though they had committed horrid 
 ravages, the Caffres had always been beat, 
 which to me did not appear furprifing. Their 
 affagay, their moft deftrudive wear 0.1, v»'hich 
 they handle with great dexterity, cannot ftand 
 in competition with our fire arms, employed 
 by chaffeurs who feldom mifs their aim. What 
 I had learned interefted me very much, tor 
 the fmalleft circumftance could not be indif- 
 ferent to me. I found myfelf engaged, on my 
 own account, in the events and chances of this 
 war ; fince I was actually, as one may fay, on 
 
 the 
 
^86 TRAVELS IN 
 
 the field of battle ; and was approaching td^ 
 wards that moment, when wounded to the foul 
 by the diftrefling fpedtacle which I had con- 
 tinually before my eyes, and inflamed wuh thd 
 moft ardent defire of ferving thofe unfortunate' 
 wretches, with whom I was not acquainted — 
 whom I had never feen, nor was perhaps ever 
 to fee ; but whofe difmal fituation excited my 
 compaffion—- 1 was preparing, if all thefe peo- 
 ple would have followed me, to traverfe fifty 
 leagues of CafFraria, at the rifque of every 
 thing that might happen ; and to re~eftabliih 
 peace for ever in that unhappy country. I 
 was not however feconded in my views by a 
 fmgle perfon. Heaven itfelf, in my opinion, 
 could not have freed thofe who follow^ed me 
 from their terror : but I can more juftly cover 
 with opprobrium thofe daftardly Hottentots of 
 the colonies whom I vifited two days after, 
 for the fhameful manner in which their chief 
 refufed to affift me in an expedition which 
 would have undoubtedly fucceeded, and done 
 the greateft honour to humanity. 
 
 A freih misfortune, which had a little before 
 taken place in thefe unhappy countries, added 
 confiderably to my courage, and heated my 
 imagination, I was told that, about fix weeks 
 
 prior 
 
AFR IC A. 2?7 
 
 prior to that period, an Engllfli veffel had 
 been fhip wrecked on the coaft ; that being 
 driven on fhore, a part of the crew had fallen 
 into the hands of the Caffres, who had put 
 them all to death, except a few women, whom 
 they had cruelly referved ; and that all thofe 
 who had efcaped led a wandering life on the 
 coaft, or in the forefts, where they muft foon 
 periili in mifery. Among thefe unfortunate 
 people, there were faid to be feveral French 
 officers, prlfoners of war, who had been put 
 on board in order to return to Europe. 
 
 This diftreffing intelligence gave me great 
 uneafmefs ; and, after all the information which 
 thefe people could communicate, I judged that, 
 by proceeding fifty leagues to the eaftward of 
 the fpot where I was, I iliould arrive at the 
 veffel. I therefore formed a thoufand projects 
 in my mind, and invented a thoufand dif- 
 ferent fchemes for affifting thefe unfortunate 
 people, whofe fituation was fo deplorable : 
 but all my Hottentots revolted againft my 
 propofal ; and neither prayers nor threats 
 could have any influence over them. The 
 recital of this adventure had made very dif- 
 ferent impreffions on them. A fudden ru- 
 mour was fpread throughout my whole camp ; 
 
 and 
 
288 TRAVELS IN 
 
 and had I not, feccnded by two or three of 
 my brave friends, ftruck a terror into thefe 
 wretches by my geflures and looks, I fhould 
 have infallibly fallen a vidtim to their feditlon. 
 One of them I greatly terrified by clapping a 
 piftol to his head ; but all my efforts were of 
 no avail. The horde who followed me, with-^ 
 out any preamble, told me that they were 
 free ; that they no longer confidered me as 
 their chief ; and that they would inftantly 
 return, with the fifteen Hottentots who had 
 lately arrived. Even my own people, with a 
 bold air, fignified that they were not difpofed 
 to be cut to pieces by thoufands of Caffres, 
 unanimoufly declaring, with loud cries, that 
 they would not follow me ; and that they 
 would, without delay, fet out for the Dutch 
 Settlements. I however kept firm to my pur- 
 pofe, and oppofed them to the very laft ; but 
 neither my reprefentations, nor the entreaties 
 of Klaas, produced any effed:, except on two 
 of them, who at length confented to expofe 
 themfelves with me. Old Swanepocl was one 
 of them : but what could four people have 
 done alone ? I in vain remonftrated with thefe 
 favages on the ingratitude with which they 
 repaid my condefcenfion, in fuffering them 
 
 to 
 
AFRICA. -89 
 
 to attend me, and on their fo foon forgetting 
 the care, provifions, and proted:ion, I had af- 
 forded them. In vain did I tell them that I 
 confidered them all as cowards, traitors^ and 
 more deteftable enemies than the Caffrea : I 
 only redoubled their fear, and infpired them 
 with hatred againft myfelf. I could read in 
 all their countenances that terror had got en- 
 tire pofleffion of their hearts. On this account 
 I refolved to fay nothing farther ; and on the 
 approach of night, after having ordered watch 
 to be kept with the utmoft attention, I fhut 
 myfelf up in my tent. Being informed at 
 break of day that thefe ftrangers were pre- 
 paring to depart, with their v/ives, childreUj 
 cattle, and all their effects, I forbade any one 
 to take leave of them ; and, without lofs of 
 time, gave orders for having every thing ready, 
 that I alfo might fet out and purfue my jour- 
 ney. In four hours w^e croffed the mountain 
 Agter-Bruyntjes-Hoogte; and, being refrefhed 
 by a fhower of rain which came feafonably to 
 our relief, at the end of four hours we en- 
 camped, in order to pafs the night. As we 
 marched along we obferved fome more de*- 
 ferted habitations, the proprietors of which 
 were doubtlefs among the number of the 
 Vol. L U confe- 
 
290 TRAVELS IN 
 
 confederates. The foil in this place appeared 
 to be, in general, good ; the mountains were 
 covered with large beautiful trees ; and the 
 plains, interfperfed with the rnimofa-mlotica^ 
 abounded with antelopes and gnous : the 
 latter, though excellent eating, are however 
 inferior to the other antelopes. 
 
 By the information I had received from the 
 fifteen Hottentots who had incited the horde to 
 revolt, and deprived me of their affiftance, I 
 reckoned that I could not be far diftant from the 
 place where all thefe Hottentots of the colonies 
 were affembled. I continually flattered myfelf 
 with the hopes of finding among them fome 
 well-difpofed people, who approvingof myplan 
 of pacification with the CafFres, and the hopes 
 of affifting the unhappy fufferers who had been 
 fhip wrecked, would heartily join me, and fe- 
 cond my endeavours to afford them relief. The 
 idea of thefe miferable people haunted me every 
 where ; and I could not help refleding on the 
 melancholy fituation of the poor women, con- 
 demned to drag out their exiflence amidfl the 
 torment and horror of defpair. Thefe thoughts 
 were ever prefent to my mind, and attached 
 me more and more to my projed ; for the 
 defire of reftoring them to liberty, and of 
 
 bringing 
 
AFRICA* 291 
 
 bringing them back with mc, more and more 
 ihut my eyes agahift any obftacie that mieht 
 occur ; and fufFered me to fee only the poffi- 
 bihty of fuccefs : I Was therefore impatient 
 to arrive at this horde of Hottentots. 
 
 Next morning, after a march of three hours, 
 undertaken at the break of day, I at length dif- 
 covered the habitation I fo much wifhed for. 
 As foon as thefe people perceived me, though 
 at a great di (lance, I faw them all aifemble, and 
 form themfelves into a group, before the houfe, 
 while their motions, confufion, and the atten- 
 tion with which they all at the fame inftant 
 turned their eyes towards me, fufEciently 
 fliewed that my appearance confiderably 
 alarmed them, and that my convoy, above 
 all, gave them great uneahnefs. I however 
 advanced, and, accofling them with politenefs, 
 made myfelf known, and told them my name. 
 I pretended that 1 was travelling under the 
 protedtion of the Dutch government, to which 
 I was obliged to give an account of mxy dif- 
 coveries. This conclufion of my difcourfe, 
 which was very conclfe, feemed to imprefs them 
 with great awe ; they then received me w4th 
 every demonftration of joy, and teftified with 
 how much pleafute they fa^y me. They con- 
 
 U 2 VefTed 
 
291 TRAVELS IN 
 
 fefTed that my beard had frightened them a little 
 (it had then eleven months growth) ; that they 
 did not knoiv what to think of my arms, my 
 Waggon, and my numerous train ; that they 
 had often heard mention made of me ; and that 
 an hundred circumftances had been related to 
 them, in which I had been in danger of lofmg 
 my life ; but that they had been at laft affured 
 that I had found a veiTel at anchor in the bay 
 of Blettemberg, which had conveyed me to the 
 ifle of Bourbon ; and that on this account, 
 when they faw me arrive, they had at firil 
 imagined that I was another perfon. After a, 
 hundred queftions, to which they gave me 
 fcarcely time to return an anfwer, I mentioned 
 the motives that had induced me to pay them 
 a vifit ; and the refohition I had taken of 
 penetrating to the extremity of Caffraria. I 
 could not help telling them how much 1 was 
 furprifed that they liad not before attempted 
 to fave the unhappy Europeans, of whofe fate 
 they were not ignorant ; that I hoped to fmd 
 amongft them men willing and ready to ac- 
 company me to the coaft where their veffel 
 had been loft ; tliat the. Dutch government 
 would, without doubt, reward in a noble man- 
 jner the authors of fuch a glorious enterprife ; 
 
 and, 
 
AFRICA. 
 
 293 
 
 and, to incite them the more, I did not fail to 
 add, that amongft the cargo of the veiTcl, which 
 Was ftill partly on the coaft, each of them 
 might eafily procure a thoufand comforts for 
 the remainder of their lives. This argument 
 feemed to have fome effe<5t upon them for the 
 moment ; but I entertained very few hopes ; 
 though they eagerly replied that, if things; 
 were as I had reprefented them, it was very 
 proper to go to the affiftance of thefe unfor- 
 tunate people ; who, as they faid, were their 
 brothers, and their fellow-creatuies. 
 
 The moft cunning, as being the moil timid 
 of the whole company, confidering my fpeech 
 only in that view in- which his intereft was 
 concerned, added for the reft, that it was 
 more than probable that the CafFres had al- 
 ready plundered the vefiel, and carried away 
 the heft part of the cargo ; that they fhould 
 find perhaps nothing at all, or, if any thing, 
 not fo much as would indemnify them for 
 the rifques and expences of fuch a journey ; 
 and that, during their abfence, their wives, 
 and their children, would be left expofed to 
 the daneer of beinp; maflacred by the Caffres. 
 
 prom this difcourfe I Wfis fully convinced 
 that nothing could tempt them to undertake 
 
 U 2 this 
 
294 TRAVELS IN 
 
 this expedition. It appeared that they could 
 not carry away a great number of cattle from 
 their enemies ; for, after iharing twenty thou- 
 fand fmce the commencement of hoftllities, 
 thefe favages could not have many remaining, 
 as they had been obliged, in order to preferve 
 thofe which had efcaped pillage, to carry them 
 a great way into the interior parts of the 
 country, 
 
 I ufed every argument in my power to over- 
 come the reafoning of this man ; and I often 
 told him that he forgot above all the miferable 
 people for whom I had come to folicit affift- 
 ance : but he had corrupted his companions,; 
 and, after that, not one of them fhev/ed the 
 leaft inclination to fecorid me. As, there wa§ 
 no profit in view, I could no longer depend 
 on their affiftance. 
 
 As it was in vain to attempt any farther to 
 move them, I had recourfe to imprecations. I 
 threatened them with all the vengeance of 
 government ; I wifhed that fwarms of Caffres 
 might furround their habitations; and, fearing 
 that their exam.ple might influence my own 
 people, among whom I found fome obedience 
 and attachment, I immediately fet out to pur- 
 fue my journey. 
 
 2 I li^d 
 
AFRICA. 
 
 ^95 
 
 I had remarked that they were reinforced by 
 a pretty numerous company of Meftizo Hot- 
 tentots, who are courageous and enterprifing, 
 and approach nearer to the whites than the 
 Hottentots. As they had always been the firft 
 to march againft the Caffres, and to fignaHze 
 themfelves in every rencounter, I refolved to 
 leave three of my people behind me, with or- 
 ders to Infmuate themfelves among thefe Hot- 
 tentots ; and to engage fome of them to follow 
 me ; efpecially thofe who were acquainted with 
 the country, and v^^ho underftood the language 
 of the inhabitants. Before I fuffered them to 
 depart, I inftru<£ted them in what manner to 
 proceed ; and being defirous of approaching 
 the river Klein-Visy I appointed them to meet 
 me at that place. In three hours time I ar- 
 jived at this river ; and, having crofTed it, I 
 ordered my caravan to halt, as it was necef- 
 fary to fleep here, in order to wait for the 
 return of my people, and to hear how they 
 had fucceeded in their negociation. Having 
 obferved the prints of fome lions feet, I took 
 as many precautions not to be furprifed by 
 thefe animals as I had taken againft the Caf- 
 fres. I fhould not have been very uneafy 
 refpeding the latter, had it been poflible for 
 
 U 4 me 
 
-96 TRAVELS IN 
 
 me to find any means of letting them know 
 that I was not among the number of their 
 perfecutors 5 and that I neither belonged to 
 their nation, nor entertained the fame fenti-^ 
 ments : but they might have fallen fuddenly 
 on my camp, and caufed great devaftation, 
 before we had explained ourfelves to each 
 other. This confidefation induced me to choofe 
 for this time, contrary to my ufual cuftom, 
 an elevated fpot for my camp ; from which I 
 might have an extenfive profpecl every where 
 around. When I had fixed upon one, I or^- 
 dered my tent to be ereded ; my carriages and 
 oxen to be properly difpofed ; and a few huts, 
 merely for the purpofe of making a fhew, to 
 be conftructed at the diftance of a few paces, 
 I then pitched my military tent within a gun^ 
 fliot of my c^mp, and covered it with branches 
 of trees, that it might not be perceived ; as I 
 intended to pafs the night in it, along with my 
 people : by this manoeuvre I deceived the 
 enemy ; for had they made their appearance, 
 with a view of furprifmg me in my camp, 
 they would undoubtedly have been difap-. 
 pointed, to their own ruin. I fhould then 
 have had time to fall upon them, and to fur- 
 prife them in my turn, 
 
 We 
 
AFRICA, 297 
 
 We did not pais the night in tranquillity, 
 for our dogs difturbed us fo much that we en- 
 joyed no fleep at all. 
 
 At the break of day, I perceived at a 
 diftance three of my Hottentots advancing 
 towards us, accompanied by three ftrangers : 
 one of them, named Hans, the fon of a Hotten- 
 tot woman by a white man, had lived almoft 
 his w^hole life among the CafFres, and fpoke 
 their language very fluently. By giving him 
 a few glalTes of brandy, which I had kept in 
 referve, I foon gained his confidence ; and I 
 made him tell me every thing that I wifhed 
 to know, refpedling the ftate of affairs at that 
 time. What I learned confirmed me in my 
 opinion, that the Caffres in general are a 
 harmlefs and peaceful people ; but he affured 
 me that, being continually oppreffed, plun- 
 dered, and maffacred by the whites, they had 
 found themfelves reduced to the neccffity of 
 taking up arms in their own defence ; adding, 
 that the planters every where gave out, that 
 thefe people were barbarous and fanguinary, 
 in order to juftify their robberies, and the 
 cruelty which they daily exercifed againft 
 them, and \yhich they endeavoured to make 
 appear as reprifals ; that, under pretence of 
 
 their 
 
298 TRAVELS IN 
 
 their cattle being carried away, they had, with-* 
 out regard to age or fex, exterminated whole 
 hordes of CafTres, plundered them of their 
 oxen, and ravaged their lands ; that this 
 method of procuring live ftock appearing to 
 be much eafier than to rear them themfelves, 
 they had employed it with fo much indifcre- 
 tion for more than a year, that they had fhared 
 above twenty thoufand aijiong them ; and 
 that they had maflacred without mercy all 
 thofe who had attempted to defend them. Hans 
 ^old me that he had been witnefs to a tranfac- 
 tion, w^hich I fhall give here exadlly as he 
 related it. 
 
 A band of planters having deftroyed a CafFre 
 Village, a young child about twelve years of 
 age efcaped, and concealed itfelf in a hole, 
 where it was unfortunately difcovered by a man 
 belonging to a detachment of planters. This 
 man wiihing to make a flave of it, carried it 
 away with him ; but the commander taking a 
 fancy to it, infifted upon its being put into his 
 hands. The perfon who found it obftinately 
 refufed to give it up : both fides grew warm ; 
 and the commander, inflamed with anger, and 
 running up in a fuiious manner to the inno- 
 cent vidim, cried out to his adverfary, " If I 
 
 *^ cannot 
 
AFRICA, 
 
 299 
 
 ^^ cannot have the child, it fhall not be thine ; 
 *' upon which difcharging his fufee againft its - 
 *' breaft, it dropped down dead on the fpot." 
 
 I learned alfo, that, in order to amufe them- 
 felves, thefe wretches had often placed their pri- 
 foners at a certain diftance, and tried who was 
 moft expert with their fufees in hitting them. 
 I fhould never have done were I to relate alj 
 the horrid cruelties w^hich they daily commit 
 upon thofe unhappy favages who are under 
 their protedion ; but private confiderations, 
 and other very powerful motives, oblige me to 
 be filent. Befides^ what avails the voice of one 
 feeling individual, againft defpotifm and force ? 
 I have faid enough to fhew the character of 
 the planters of this part of Africa, w^hom the 
 inad:ivity of government fuffers to go on in 
 their excefles, and is even afraid of punifhing. 
 In this place are committed all the cruelties 
 that hell can invent. In a republican ftate, 
 diftinguifhed more than any other by the fim- 
 plicity of its manners, and a fpirit of philan- 
 thropy, the moft villainous iniquity remains 
 unpunifhed : becaufe people do not deign to 
 look beyond thofe objeds which furround 
 them. If the governor receives informa- 
 tioi> fometimes, refpeding thcfe horrid abufes, 
 
 the 
 
V 
 
 too TRAVELS IN 
 
 O 
 
 the diftance, the time necefiary to convey inteU 
 ligence to hhn, and other circumftances, per- 
 haps, which it may be prudent not to inquire 
 into, difguife it fo much when it reaches the 
 town, that it fcarcely furnifhes fubjed for the 
 converfation of the day. 
 
 A planter arrives from the diftance of an 
 hundred leagues ; he complains to the governor 
 that the Caffres had carried away all his cattle ; 
 and he requefts a commando^ that is to fay, 
 permiffion to go and recover his property with 
 the afhflance of his neighbours. The governor 
 fufpeding no deceit, or pretending not to dif-^ 
 cover any, takes every thing in the fame light 
 as it is reprefented to him, and fees nothing but 
 juftice in the demand of an impoftor : a pre- 
 vious enquiry would require too much time, 
 befides being laborious and embarrailing. To 
 grant pernpiiffion is eafy ; it cofts little, and is 
 only a fmgle word. This fatal word is there- 
 fore written, and it becomes the feaience of 
 death paffed againfl thoufands of favages, who 
 have neither the fame refources nor the fame 
 means of defence. The monfter who thus de-* 
 ceives the credulity of the governor, returns 
 fatisfied amidft the accomplices of his rapacity, 
 and gives to his commando v/hatevcr extent he* 
 
 may 
 
AFRICA. -01 
 
 s 
 
 tt\2cy find ufeful to his mtereft : a new maffa- 
 cre then takes place, which is only a prelude 
 to more carnage ; for if the Caffres have the 
 audacity to recover, by force or by ftratagem, 
 the cattle taken from them in confequence of 
 this order, furreptitioufiy obtained from the 
 governor, and which continues in force till 
 there are no more vidlms, thefe planters 
 fatiate their vengeance by the mofl horiid 
 flaughter. 
 
 Thus did this war, or rather this pillaging, 
 continue all the time that I reiided in Africa. 
 Neither commercial fpeculations nor a fond- 
 nefs for any fcrvice condudled me to the Cape. 
 The natural impulfe of m.y difpofition, and a 
 defire of acquiring new knov/ledge, made me 
 diredt my courfe to that part of the world : 
 I arrived there perfectly free, and with a mind 
 not in the leaft biafled by prejudice. I made 
 myfelf better acquainted with the interior 
 parts of the country, and the unknown natives 
 by whom it is inhabited, than with any of the 
 colonies belonging to the Cape, or even the 
 Cape itfelf, which I did not know, but at the 
 different periods of my return. I had no per- 
 fonal intereft in view to make me be fufpe^fled 
 of partiality ; but I have every where feen 
 
 verv 
 
302 TRAVEL^ IN 
 
 very powerful reafons for obfervlng, that tkt 
 forefeeing eye of policy has been opened too 
 late on thofe poffeffions which are at a dif-* 
 tance, and which every day become more re- 
 mote from the metropolis. I have feerl that the 
 authority of a governor, however great it may 
 be, does not extend far enough to check at 
 their fource thofe dreadful irregularities, which 
 are continued, and fiill increafmg, in the inte- 
 rior parts of the country. Should it ever hap- 
 pen that the CafFres, inceffantly harraffed, unite 
 in fupport of the common caufe with the 
 neighbouring nations, vv^ho begin alfo to com- 
 plain of the planters, their union would cer- 
 tainly occafion the greatefl diforder ; and who 
 knows what might be the confequence of fuch 
 a confederation, formed for the purpofe of 
 defending inalienable rights, and of avenging 
 ancient Injuries ? There are many methods by 
 which government might prevent thefe misfor- 
 tunes ; and it is full time that they fhould be em- 
 ployed, for the danger increafes by delay. There 
 have been inftances of the governor, when 
 informed of fomc cruelties exercifed againft 
 the favages, fummoning in vain the perfon 
 who was the author of them to come to the 
 Cape, and give an account of his conduft. The 
 
 criminal 
 
AFRICA. 303 
 
 criminal has not fo much as deigned to return 
 any anfwer to the order fent to him ; he has 
 continued to harrafs and plunder in the fame 
 manner as before : and his difobediencc has 
 been attended with no bad confequences to 
 him ; nay it has been even foon forgotten. 
 
 One day, while difcourfing with fome of the 
 planters on thefe abufes, feveral of them told 
 me that they had more than once received 
 fuch orders from the governor, without ever 
 paying the leaft attention to them. Growing 
 a little warm in the caufe, I exprefled my 
 aftonifhment that in fuch circumilances the 
 governor did not fend a detachment to enforce 
 obedience to his orders ; and, in cafe of a re- 
 fufal, to feize upon the culprit, and to conduct 
 him to town under a ftrong guard. '' Are you 
 " well aware," faid they," what would be the 
 « refult of fuch an attempt ? Affembling all 
 " in an inftant, we would maffacre the half 
 « of the foldiers, fah their flelh, and fend 
 <« it back by thofe we might fpare ; with 
 ^* threats of doing the fame thing to thofe 
 « who fhould be bold enough to appear among 
 " us afterwards." Such was their anfwer ; tp 
 which I thought it would be altogether ufe- 
 lefs to offer any reply. Tq deal with people 
 
 of 
 
304 TRAVELS IN 
 
 of this charader, muft be a work of great dif- 
 ficulty ; and no fmall ihare of addrefs will be 
 necefTary to reduce them to obedience. I do 
 not confider it as impofTible, that, fhaking off 
 the yoke, they may fome day didate laws to 
 the head of the colony ; and that day will be 
 when a man of abilities, gaining the minds and 
 confidence of the multitude, fhall prefent to 
 them, under feducing colours, a view of inde- 
 pendence and liberty. They are already too 
 fcnfible of the facility with which fuch an en- 
 terprife may be undertaken ; and of the advan- 
 tages that will refult from its fuccefs. Nothing 
 will be necefTary but to put them in mind 
 that they are about ten thoufand in number, 
 all crafty and refolute, and all accuftomed to 
 hunting ; that every ihot they may fire will 
 do execution ; that without difficulty, and 
 without danger, they may beat and deftroy 
 any forces with which the governor may 
 oppofe them ; that they will enjoy abundance 
 the moment they ceafe to acknowledge the 
 irkfome and often tyrannical laws of govern- 
 ment, which are contrary to every kind of 
 private profperity ; that placed in a delightful 
 climate, the poiieflbrs of the fineft fields and 
 the mod beautiful' woods in the country, 
 4 abundantly 
 
AFRICA. 305 
 
 abundantly flocked with game of all kinds, 
 they may, by addhig to all thefe advantages 
 thofe of cultivating the earth, and bi'eedini>- 
 flocks, procure to themfelves, from the firfl: 
 hand, every refource arifing from barter ; and 
 that, by means of the harbours and roads 
 which are to be found in great plenty on the 
 coafts of their territories, it is in their power 
 to bring the induftry of other nations amongfi: 
 them, to extend their population, to increafe 
 their riches, and to have every convenience 
 that an extenfive foreign trade can fupply. 
 The government at the Cape are already 
 fully fenfible of the importance of thefe re- 
 flexions ; and this perhaps is one of the 
 juiteft caufes of their apparent fupinenefs 
 with refpedl to the planters. They know the 
 genius and character of thefe robuft people, 
 almofi all educated in the midft of the woods; 
 and they were more cautious in their condu^ft 
 towards them during my refidence at the Cape, 
 becaufe they thought the flue of the whole 
 town depended upon their powerful afTiftance, 
 had the Englilh in the war of 1781 attempted 
 to make a defcent there, as they expedled. 
 The following anecdote will fliew how far 
 they were to be depended on : — An alarm 
 Vol. I. X having 
 
3o6 TRAVELS IN 
 
 having been fpread, though without any foun- 
 dation, in lefs than twenty-four hours, from 
 a thoufand to twelve hundred of them made 
 their appearance in a body ; and thefe would 
 have been followed by all the reft, had not an 
 order been ifiued to ftop them. 
 
 Thofe however would be in great error^ 
 who from what I have faid ihould imagine that 
 all thefe planters are fo many Csefars. This is 
 far from being the cafe ; and indeed fuch an 
 idea would ill agree w^ith the accounts I have 
 before given when fpeaking of their war with 
 the Caffres, and of their pofleffions every 
 where abandoned and defertcd. Born for the 
 moft part among rocks, a favage and ruftic 
 education has made them like fo many giants 
 with refpeft to ftrength ; but, though accuf. 
 tomed from their earlieft infancy to watch and 
 furprife the monftrous animals of Africa, they 
 are abfolutely not fit but for a firft attack, or 
 to fucceed in an ambufcade. They would not 
 ftand in the open field, nor would they ever 
 return to a fecond charge. They are not ac- 
 quainted with that courage Which is infpired 
 by a fenfe of honour, but with that only 
 which arifes from a confcioufnefs of one's 
 
 ftrength 
 
AFRICA. 307 
 
 ftrength or dexterity : and if the reader calls 
 to mind my adventure with them in the Bay 
 of Saldanha, it may be eafily feen that it tends 
 ftrongly to corroborate what I have here ad- 
 vanced. The fame thing cannot be faid of 
 the greater part of the vromen. Courageous 
 with refledion, their deliberate coolnefs knows 
 neither obftacles nor fear ; being equally fkil- 
 ful as their hufbands in managing their horfes, 
 and in the ufe of fire arms, they are much 
 more indefatigable, and never retreat on the 
 appearance of danger: they are real Amazons. 
 
 I was acquainted with a widow who 
 managed her own plantation ; and when the 
 wild beafts came to alarm her flocks, fne 
 mounted her horfe, followed them in clofe 
 purfuit, and never left them till fhe had either 
 deftroyed them, or obliged them to quit her 
 pofTeffions. 
 
 In one of my excurfions two years after to 
 the great Nimiqua Land, I faw upon a very 
 folitary plantation a young girl of twenty, 
 who always accompanied her father on horfe- 
 back, when he took the field, at the head of 
 his people, to repel the Eofhmen who came 
 to difturb his repofe. In defiance of their 
 
 X 2 poifoncd 
 
3o8 TRAVELS IN 
 
 poifoned arrows, fhe would purfue thein with 
 fury, overtake them in their courfe, and fire 
 upon them without mercy. 
 
 The annals of the Cape make mention of a 
 great number of women who have diftinguifhed 
 themfelves by ads of intrepidity that might do 
 honour to the moil refolute of the other fex. 
 
 The tragical fate of a Vvddow, who lived up- 
 on a very remote plantation with her two fons, 
 the oldeft of whom was not above eighteen 
 years of age, ftill afforded a fubjedl for conver- 
 fation at the Cape, when I arrived there. One 
 obfcure night ihe and all her family being 
 awakened by the kicking and bellowing of her 
 oxen and cows, whicjb were in an enclofure 
 not far diflant, every body flew to arms, and 
 haftened towards the place from which the noife 
 proceeded. When they reached the fpot, they 
 found a lion, which, having got over the pales, 
 was making dreadful devaftation among the 
 cattle ; and no refource was left but to enter 
 the enclofure, to inveft the ferocious animal, 
 and to kill him. None of the flaves or Hot- 
 tentots of this woman had however fufficient 
 courage to try this expedient ; and even her 
 two fons would not venture to prefent them- 
 felves before the ferocious beaft. In this di^ 
 
 lemma 
 
ATRIC A. 309 
 
 lemma the Intrepid widow entered alone, 
 armed with a fufee ; and penetrating to the 
 lion, which on account of the darknefs was 
 fcarcely perceptible, flie difcharged her piece : 
 but unluckily the animal being only wounded, 
 darted upon her with the utmoft fury, and 
 threw her down. On hearing the cries of their 
 poor mother, the two children haftened to her 
 relief; and having become defperate at this 
 horrid fight, while the formidable lion was 
 engaged with his prey, they fell upon him, and 
 ftrangled him, though too late, on the mangled 
 corpfe of their mother. Befides feveral deep 
 wounds which fhe had received in her throat, 
 and feveral parts of her body, the lion had 
 torn off one of her hands above the wrift, and 
 devoured it. Every poflible afliftance was 
 immediately given her ; but fhe expired that 
 evening in great agony, amidft the unavailing 
 lamentations of her children and flaves affem- 
 bled around her, 
 
 I have already faid that Hans gave me eveiy 
 information that I required refpedingCaffraria. 
 He told me that the territories in which I then 
 was belonged to a powerful prince, who re- 
 fided at the diflance of thirty leagues from us, 
 more towards the north, and that he was named 
 
 X 3 ki"S 
 
3IO TRAVELS IN 
 
 king Fciroo, He advifed me to penetrate as 
 far as the place of his abode ; afluring me that 
 I had nothing to fear, and no danger to run : 
 on the contrary, he told me that both the 
 prince and his fubjedl?. would receive me with 
 great pleafure ; in hopes that, on my return to 
 the Cape, a relation of what I had feen of 
 their manners, their charafter and their way 
 of life, would efface thofe unfavourable ideas 
 everywhere formed of them, from the accounts 
 of the planters, whom they detefted ; and that 
 perhaps they would then be fuffered to enjoy 
 tranquillity, the only favour^ which they re- 
 quefted from the white people. 
 
 On the firft view, this reafoning was plaufi- 
 ble and feducing ; and I was fully fenfible of 
 all the advantages that might arife to me from 
 the execution of fuch a projed. I fuffered 
 myfelf, indeed, to be almofl perfuaded ; but^ 
 on the other hand, if through imprudence, or 
 excefs of confidence, I fhould Icfe the fruits 
 of all my travels, or if I fhould happen to be 
 TnafTacred, this flep would be confidered as a 
 mafler-piece of folly and extravagance. I well 
 knev/ the fickle and unfleady difpofition of the 
 offspring of the whites and the Hottentots ; 
 and I refledted, for the firft time, on what this 
 
 man. 
 
AFRICA. 311 
 
 man might be capable of doing. TIic bribe of 
 a glafs of brandy might make him a traitor : 
 he was a friend to the Caffres ; had paffed 
 part of his time amongfl: them j and, bcfides 
 this, he had come from a retreat which I had 
 every reafon to fufped:, and was there perhaps 
 only to watch the motions of the planters, 
 and to betray them. Might it not be pofTible 
 that his intention was to facrifice me, that he 
 might ihare my effeds with the Caffres ; and 
 to acquire fome merit among them, by lead- 
 ing me into a fnare ? 
 
 Having w^eighed thefe confiderations for a 
 long time, agitated by a thoufand contrary 
 ideas, and incapable of forming any refolution 
 myfelf, I fuddenly fixed upon an eafier and 
 much more prudent plan. By thefe means I 
 gained a Httle more time to indulge in new 
 refledions, and to acquire better information, 
 without expofing either my perfon or my for- 
 tune. I refolved to fend a deputation to king 
 Faroo ; and, on the firft overture made to 
 Hans, he accepted this commiffion without 
 the leaft hefitation. Though his condud upon 
 this occafion feemed to prefage well, I was 
 however determined to take every precaution. 
 This young meftizo promifed to engage two 
 
 X 4 or 
 
312 TRAVELS IN 
 
 or three of his friends to undertake the jour-, 
 ney along with him ; and to thefe I added 
 two of my moft faithful Hottentots, Adams 
 and Slanger, who were to give an account to 
 the king of every thing I had done for eleven 
 months before, from the time that I quitted 
 the Cape. In order that he might be enabled 
 to judge that curiofity alone had conduced 
 me to his territories, I charged my meffengers 
 to tell him that, being born in another world, 
 and above all a ftranger in Africa, I was in no 
 manner either a friend to the planters who 
 were carrying on war againft him, or an 
 accomplice in their deiigns ; that I did not 
 even live ampngft them ; that I highly dif- 
 approved of their condud: ; and, in a word, 
 that he might reft afTured that, as long as I 
 remained in his country, he would have no 
 occafion to be uneafy at my condud or mo- 
 tions, as they tended to one harmlefs end, 
 that of procuring fuch objeds as related to 
 my tafte and ftudies ; and that, far from car- 
 rying ravage and terror into his pofTefllons, I 
 would on the contrary embrace every oppor- 
 tunity of being ufeful to his fubjeds and to 
 himfelf, as I had been to feveral Hottentot 
 hordes, who neither fufpeded my fmcerity, 
 
 nor 
 
AFRICA. 313 
 
 nor refafed my dffiftance : I added, that the go- 
 vernment at the Cape, to whom I would give 
 a faithful account of every thing I had fccn, 
 would lofe no time to reflore tranquillity in 
 his territories, and to re-eftablifh that harmony 
 which had fubfifted between him and the plan- 
 ters. Having inftruded my deputies in this 
 manner, particularly thofe belonging to my 
 camp, to whom I enjoined the greatefl: fecrecy 
 refpedting certain particulars which I entrufted 
 to them alone (fuch, for example, as the ex- 
 prefs orders of bringing fome Caffres along 
 with them, that I might be able to judge 
 what degree of confidence they repofed in 
 me, and to fee how far I ought to grant 
 them mine), I gave them a few prefents for 
 the prince, and difmiffed them. Having pro- 
 mifed to return foon to Koks-Kraal, where I 
 was to wait for them, each of them made 
 fuch provifion as he thought neceffiiry, and 
 then they departed. 
 
 I myfelf fet out in the m.orning ; and, after a 
 march of three hours, we found ourfelves on 
 the banks of the Groot-Vis-Rivier, where the 
 heat was exceffive. Though the earth, covered 
 all over with large round pebbles, rendered 
 the way exceedingly laborious for the oxen, 
 
 we 
 
314 TRAVELS IN 
 
 we proceeded along the banks of the river ; 
 but, overcome by fatigue, we were forced to 
 halt, at the diftance of three hundred paces 
 from its current : it was then only four in the 
 afternoon. Whilfl: we were making the ufual 
 preparations to enable us to pafs the night in 
 tranquillity, I walked towards the banks of 
 the river ; not far from which I perceived the 
 remains of a kraal belonging to the Caffres. 
 Curiofity having induced me to go up to it, 
 I found feveral huts perfed:ly entire, and 
 others v/holly deftroyed : but I beheld a more 
 difmal fpe^tacle in fome human bones which 
 lay fcattered here and there. From their ap- 
 parent age, I concluded that they were the relics 
 of thofe unfortunate wretches whom the plan- 
 ters had made the firft viftims of their revenge ; 
 and that they had been left there fmce the 
 commencement of this unjuft war. 
 
 We paffed the night of the loth without 
 any interruption. Some hyasnas, indeed, paid 
 us a vifit ; but being ^ccuftomed to fuch guefts, 
 we vx^ere under very little uneafinefs. In the 
 morning, my Hottentots, on their return from 
 procuring water, informed me that they had 
 feen feveral frefh traces of koedoes * and hip- 
 
 ■* The anti/ope- oryx of F'dlhs, T. 
 
 popotarai. 
 
AFRICA. 315 
 
 popotami. As our ftock of provifion was nearly 
 exhaufted, and the weather favourable, I re- 
 folved to fpend this day in hunting. 
 
 My people having difperfed themfclves on 
 the banks of the river, in order that they might 
 difcover the precife fpot which thele hippopo- 
 tami haunted, I myfelf went to the other fide, 
 in hopes of finding fome koedoes or other 
 game. I however faw only fome draggling 
 antelopes, and a few flocks of oftriches. Being 
 on foot, and finding that I could by no means 
 approach them, I began to fear that the whole 
 day would be fpent in contemplation and 
 courfing ; but, after having traverfed a great 
 deal of ground, I fuddenly obferved, in a plain 
 ivhich was covered with long grafs and a few 
 flirubs, feven koedoes, which very luckily did 
 not perceive me. Follow^ed by a man who 
 attended me, I approached with great pre- 
 caution ; and, when w^e were within two 
 hundred paces of them, I ordered him to fire 
 firft ; for, as I was certain that I could over- 
 take thefe animals by running, I wifhed to 
 referve my fhot till the moft dubious moment. 
 As foon as he had fired, they all betook them- 
 felves to flight, as I expefted ; but very luckily 
 as they paflTedme, at the diftance of about 
 2 thirty 
 
3i6 TRAVELS IN 
 
 thirty paces, I killed the only male which 
 was in the flock. My Hottentot maintained 
 that this w^as the animal he had fired at ; but 
 I convinced him of his miftake, for we found 
 only one wound and one ball in it. Having 
 covered it wath a few branches, and tied 
 my handkerchief to the end of a pole, which 
 I fixed in the ground, to frighten away fero- 
 cious animals, we fet out in purfuit of the reft 
 of the koedoes ; becaufe, the male being killed, 
 I w^as certain that the females would not go 
 far. We obferved fome traces of blood, which 
 plainly fhewed that one of them had been 
 wounded : and indeed, at the diftance of 
 four hundred paces, we found one juft ex- 
 piring. My Hottentot, whom I had reproached 
 for {hooting badly, was highly flattered by 
 this event ; but he had taken aim at the male, 
 and it was by chance that he hit the female. 
 Having fkinned it, and taken out its bowels, we 
 thought we might then both of us be able, as the 
 difl:ance was not very great, to convey it to the 
 fpot where we had left the male. Being con- 
 fiderably fatigued by this labour, and our ap- 
 petites beginning to be whetted, we kindled a 
 few flicks, and broiled the liver. I do not 
 know whether it was owing, to our hunger, 
 
 or 
 
AFRICA, 317 
 
 or to the delicacy of the food, but I remember 
 that, though we had neither fait nor bread ^^, I 
 could fcarcely be fatlsfied with it; and that this 
 was one of the moil delicious repafts T ever 
 made in my life : after this we tied the four 
 feet of the animal together, and with a pole 
 carried it upon our {holders to the otlicr 
 which we had killed. I then difpatched my 
 Hottentot to bring me two horfcs, with a few 
 of his companions, and we foon conveyed the 
 game to our camp. Some inftantly filled the 
 kettles v;ith it, while others broiled fleaks of 
 it upon the hot coals ; and, in lefs than two 
 hours, two thirds of the fleili difappeared. 
 
 The Hottentots are gluttonous as long as 
 there is abundance of provifions ; but, in times 
 of fcarcity, they can be contented with a very 
 little. In this refpedt I may compare them to 
 hysenas, or other carnivorous animals, which 
 devour all their prey in an inftant, without 
 thinking on the future ; and which indeed re- 
 main feveral days without finding any nourilh- 
 ment, and are fometimes obliged to appeafe 
 their hunger with clay, A Hottentot is ca- 
 pable of eating in one day ten or twelve 
 
 * The latter I had not eat for fome time. 
 
 pounds 
 
3i8 TRAVELS IN 
 
 pounds of meat ; but on prefling occafions^ 
 a few locufts, a piece of honey-comb, and 
 often a bit of the leather of his fandals, will 
 fuffice him. I could never make mine com- 
 prehend that it was prudent to referve a little 
 provifion for the day following. They not 
 only eat as much as they can, but they diftri- 
 bute what remains to whomfoever they meet 
 with ; they are never difturbed refpecling the 
 confequence of this prodigality. We will hunt^ 
 fay they — or we will Jleep, The latter is a re- 
 , fource which often relieves them in cafes of 
 necefTity. I never paffed in thofe barren 
 and defart places, where game is fcarce, with- 
 out feeing whole hordes of thefe favages afleep 
 in their kraals, a too certain evidence of their 
 wretched fituation ; but what may appear very 
 furprifmg, though I have obferved it more 
 than twenty times, is, that they command 
 fleep, and deceive at their pleafure the moft 
 prefling want of nature. There are however 
 fome wakeful moments fuperior to habitude, 
 and to all their powers. In fuch cafes they 
 employ another expedient no lefs ftrange, and 
 which, though incredible, is neverthelefs io 
 certain that it cannot be controverted. I have 
 feen them confine their ftomachs by a leather 
 
 bandage^ 
 
AFRICA. 319 
 
 bandage, in order to diminiili their hunger, 
 which they endure for a long time, and appeafe 
 with very httle. This curious method of em- 
 ploying ligatures is alfo among them a general 
 remedy, which they ufe for all difeafes. They 
 bind a clofe bandage round the head, or any 
 other part affe(^ed, and think that in confining 
 the diftemper they drive it away, I have been 
 more than once prefentat fuch operations; and, 
 after they were finifhed according to tlie pa- 
 tients wifh, I have feen them become quite 
 compofed, and reply with more readinels 
 when I enquired tenderly how they did, and 
 afliire me that they found great relief. How- 
 ever whimfical this cuftom may appear, it 
 would not be fo generally adopted by thefe 
 people, did it not anfwerthe high idea which 
 they entertain of it. 
 
 Thofe Hottentots whom I had fent to fearch 
 for hippopotami foon returned, and informed 
 me, that in coafting along the river they 
 obferved one in a place fo covered with reeds, 
 that they found it impoffible to reach the water 
 in order to examine it more clofely, but that 
 every time he approached the furface to 
 breathe they had heard him diftindlly ; that 
 they had ia vaia fired feveral times to frighten 
 
 him. 
 
320 TRAVELS IN 
 
 him, and make him change his pofiticn ; and 
 that in all probability next morning he would 
 choofe fome other fpot more favourable to 
 our defigns. They had fallen in with about 
 twenty buifaloes alfo, but they did not kill 
 one. 
 
 The night following, being the nth of the 
 month, we were vifited by fome lions, hyenas, 
 and jackals, which kept us continually on the 
 watch till two o'clock in the morning. The 
 fmell of our fteaks and freih provifions had 
 undoubtedly attracted them. We found it 
 very difficult to keep our horfes quiet, and 
 efpecially the one I had bought from Mr. Mul- 
 der in the country of Auteniqua. On hear- 
 ing the cries of thefe ferocious beads, this 
 young animal was fo terrified, that w^e were 
 under the nec^llity of putting ihackles on his 
 four legs, and double reins to his head, to 
 prevent him from deftroying himfelf : the 
 appearance of day reftored us however to our 
 former tranquillity. 
 
 The evening before I had fent a Hottentot 
 to reconnoitre Koks-Kraal, which was the 
 rendezvous where I agreed to wait for my de- 
 puties. They had been gone only three days ; 
 and as I could not exped to fee them fo foon,. 
 
 I thoueht 
 
AFRICA. 321 
 
 I thought that this retreat might enable me to 
 follow a new plan of life ; and it was here 
 that I intended for a little while to eftabliih 
 my petty empire, if difagreeable news, or 
 fome misfortune, did not oblige my meflen- 
 gers to return. I had however no time to 
 lofe ; and precaution, always more indifpen- 
 fable, and which I made a moft fevere law, fuf- 
 ficiently engaged me to be expeditious. On 
 the report of my commiffioners, I judged that 
 we might encamp very conveniently in Koks- 
 Kraal ; and the firft view of this charming 
 fpot did not deceive my expedation. Having 
 reached it in three hours, we found an enclofure 
 about fifty feet fquare, formed by a dry hedge 
 of branches of trees and thorns ; it was deftroyed 
 in fome places, but it required fcarcely a day 
 to repair it. For fheltering our cattle the dif- 
 covery of this enclofure was fo much the 
 luckier, as it commanded a view of almoft 
 the whole neighbourhood ; on one fide we 
 obferved the river, from which we were dif- 
 tant not more than three or four hundred 
 paces. Wild beafts, however, were not the 
 principal objeds of my uneafinefs ; I thought 
 more of fecuring them from the CafFres dif. 
 Vol. I, Y perfed 
 
322 TRAVELS IN 
 
 perfed over the country. I confidered that, 
 not knowing the pacific meafures which I was 
 purfuing with one of their kings, and not be- 
 ing acquainted with my manner of thinking 
 refpefting them, they might every moment 
 come to attack my camp; and the perfon 
 whom I chiefly dreaded, was he to whom 
 I had entrufted the conditions of my embafly. 
 Having feen with his own eyes what number 
 of people remained with me, and my ftrength 
 as well as my weaknefs, and knowing from my 
 own information my plan and the place where 
 we were to meet, it was in his power either to 
 corrupt fuch of my people as accompanied him, 
 or to betray and aflailinate them by the way. 
 What v^^as there at that time to prevent him 
 from coming unexpedledly at the head of 
 a numerous party, and fidling upon me, and, 
 by one of thofe ftrokes too common in war, ef- 
 facing my name from the number of the living ? 
 I muft openly confefs, that with the well-formed 
 defign of felling my life at a dear rate, my ter- 
 ror increafed in proportion to the precautions 
 which I every day took in refpedt to my fafe- 
 ty ; but, as the time after the departure of my 
 envoys increafed, my thoughts became a 
 
 little 
 
AFRICA. 323 
 
 little calmer : lontr abfence lelTcned the dano-er. 
 
 and thefe difmal ideas at length became familiar 
 to me. 
 
 Having ordered my large tent to be ercded 
 without the enclofure, and at one of its ex- 
 tremities, I caufed it to be furrounded by a few 
 falfe huts to deceive the enemy, as we had at- 
 tempted at Klyn-Vis-Rivier, At the end of 
 the enclofure, oppofite my tent, and in one of 
 its angles, we formed a feparate place for my 
 horfes, with another for my fheep and goats. 
 Near thefe I eredted my fmall tent, in which 
 I propofed to fieep ; and we raifed the hedge 
 of the enclofure fo much with prickly trees, 
 that it was imxpofTible for any ferocious ani- 
 mal to leap over it : by thefe means my flocks 
 were perfedly fafe in a fpace forty feet fquare, 
 which was fufficiently wide and commodious. 
 This kind of a fortification m.ight, in cafe of 
 necefTity, have even ferved both me and my 
 people as a place of retreat, where we could 
 have braved two thoufand ("^affres. ■ 
 
 Thefe arrangements fatlsiied ail my com- 
 panions, ftill more uneafy ttian their chief, and 
 1 faw them gradually refume their former 
 gaiety. We did not however neglect the 
 ufual precautions oji the approach of night : 
 
 Y 2 iit 
 
J 
 
 TRAVELS IN 
 
 at the dlftance of fifty paces from each fide of 
 the enclofure we kindled large fires, to drive 
 away the lions and the hysenas, and, for the 
 greater fecurity, we lighted others around us. 
 This difpofition was attended with the com- 
 pleteft fuccefs. I purfucd my ordinary occupa- 
 tions, and thought of nothing elfe but hunt- 
 ing. Having obferved the firft afternoon 
 fome peroquets flying through the air in order 
 to go and drink at the river, I watched them, 
 and was lucky enough to kill one of them. 
 It was a new fpecies, which has never yet been 
 defcribed ; its fize approaches that of the afh- 
 coloured peroquet of Guinea ; its general co- 
 lour is a green of different ihades, but the legs 
 and the tip of the wings are of a beautiful 
 orange. I fhall give an ample account of it 
 in my defcription of birds. We were vifited 
 alfo during the day-time by conhderable troops 
 of bawians^ or apes of the fame fpecies as my 
 friend Kees. Thefe animals, aftoniihed at fee- 
 ing fo many people, were ftill more fo to 
 obferve one of their own kind remaining 
 very peaceably amongft us, and to hear him 
 anfwer them in good language. One day they 
 came down from a little hill which flood 
 near my camp ; and in lefs than half an hour 
 ^ ' above 
 
AFRICA. 32^ 
 
 above an hundred of them, prompted by cu- 
 riofity furrounded us, continually repeatino- 
 goU'-a'COii^ gou-a-cou^ for the voice of Kces 
 had greatly emboldened them. There were 
 many among them much larger than the reft, 
 but they were all of the fame fpecies : they 
 performed a thoufand tricks and gefticulations, 
 which I ihould in vain attempt to defcribe. 
 Thofe would be much deceived who fhould 
 judge of them from thofe degenerated apes, 
 which pine in a ftate of flavery, langour, and 
 fear, in Europe, or which are ftifled by the 
 carefles of our ladies, or poifoned by their 
 dainties. The thick atmofphere of our climates 
 damps their natural livelin-efs, and deftroys 
 them, nor can they .be made to laugh but by 
 the force of blowSp 
 
 A fmgularity however, which I have already 
 had occafionto rem.ark, engaged my attention. 
 Kees, which I held by the paw, though he 
 knew thefe animals to be of the fame fpecies, 
 and replied to them, would never go near 
 them. I dragged him towards them, but, con- 
 tented v/ith b^ing on their guard, they {hewed 
 no figns of fear, and faw me approach with as 
 much tranquillity as Kees ihewed agitation 
 In refifting. All of a fuddcn he made his efcapc 
 
 y 3 from 
 
326 TRAVELS IN 
 
 from me, and ran to hide himfelf in my tent. 
 The caufe of this terror was perhaps owing to 
 his being afraid that they would carry him 
 along with them. He was very ftrongly at- 
 tached to m.e, and I wifh to do him honour 
 for this fentiment. In the mean time the reft 
 of the apes continued their gefticulations, and 
 feemed to force themfclves to exhibit tricks 
 and emit cries in order to amufe me, till fa- 
 tigued by their nolfe, and tired of this fpeda- 
 cle, I wifhed to procure myfelf another. On 
 difcharging a fufee, all my dogs were foon at 
 their heels ; and it was very amufmg to fee in 
 how light a manner and with what nim- 
 blenefs they fled ; they inftantly difperfed 
 themfelves, and, leaping from rock to rock, 
 difappeared with the velocity of lightning. 
 
 On the 13th I was awakened very early in 
 the morning by the cry of a bird v^hich I did 
 not knov/. Its tones, which were full and 
 well fupported, had no refemblance to any 
 thing I had ever before heard. As they ap- 
 peared to be really extraordinary, I inftantly 
 ftarted up, and got clofe to the. bird without 
 being perceived ; yet as it was fcarcely day, I 
 favvT it but very indiftindly through the buftiy 
 branches of a tree upon v/hich it was perched, 
 4 and 
 
AFRICA. 327 
 
 and I was fo unfortunate as to fuffer It to 
 efcape. By its flight, however, I could dii- 
 tingufh that it was a geat-fucker* ; I indeed 
 was not deceived, for fome days after I had an 
 opportunity of killing feveral of them. 
 
 7'his bird is very different from the goat- 
 fucker known in Europe, and which has only 
 one plaintive cry like that of the common 
 toad, which probably has given rife to its 
 French name f ; but that of Africa is very 
 diftind, and fuch as cannot pofTibly be imitated. 
 It continues finging for whole hours after fun- 
 fet, fometimes during the whole night ; and 
 this difference, added to that of its feathers, 
 makes it a new fpecies. 
 
 I killed alfo feveral very pretty birds ; and 
 among others a barbet J, of a very fmall un- 
 known fpecies, and a cuckoo which I named 
 the bawler §, becaufe its flirill cry may indeed 
 be heard at a great diftance : this cry, or, to ex- 
 prefs myfelf more correctly, this fong, has no 
 refemhlance to that of our cuckoo in Europe, 
 
 * The goat fucking owl ; called alfo in fonie parts of" 
 England the churn owl, or fern owl. T. 
 
 f Crapaud volant.^ or the flying toad. T. 
 :|: Bucco capenfis Linn. T. 
 § In French Criard. 
 
 Y 4 and 
 
328 TRAVELS IN 
 
 and its plumage alfo is entirely different. In 
 this canton I found likewife a great many of 
 the golden cuckoos defcribed by Buffon un- 
 der the name of the green-golden cuckoo of the 
 Cape. This bird is undoubtedly the moft beau- 
 tiful of its fpecies, for its plumage is enriched"" 
 with white, green, and gold. Perched on the 
 tops of large trees, it continually repeats, and 
 with a varied modulation, thefe fyllables, di^ 
 dt\ didn'Cy as diftinftly as I have written them ; 
 for this reafon I have named it the didric. As 
 I was thus amufmg myfelf in purfuing fome 
 fmall birds, I perceived a flock of vultures and 
 crows, which were making a great noife, and 
 foaring round and round in the air. When I 
 reached the fpot almoft below them, I faw 
 the remains of a buffalo, which had been de- 
 voured by lions perhaps not twenty-four hours 
 before. On the firft view of the field of battle, 
 I concluded that the conflid: muft have been 
 terrible j all the ground around feemed to have 
 been beat and trod upon ; I could count how 
 many times the buffalo had been thrown down, 
 and I found tufts of the lion's mane fcattered 
 here and there, which the former had with- 
 out doubt torn away either with his feet or his 
 horns. 
 
 Having 
 
AFRICA. 329 
 
 Having obferv^ed near this fpot, which was 
 not far diftant from the river, the frcfh traces 
 of two hippopotami, I followed thefe marks, 
 and eafily difcovered the place where the ani- 
 mals had again entered the water. I liftened 
 very attentively, but I heard nothing ; and the 
 banks of the river were fo encumbered with 
 reeds and Ihrubs, that I could not get near 
 them, Thefe animals therefore had every ad- 
 vantage to enable them to conceal themfelvcs, 
 and to avoid rifing up from the water to breathe. 
 It would have been lofmg time to wait for them ; 
 the hour of dinner was approaching, and I was 
 both tired and hungry. As I had advanced 
 too far in purfuit of my goat-fucker and other 
 birds, I fet out to return to my camp by the 
 ihorteft way ; and while 1 was going towards 
 the eaft, and dire(fting my route by the fun, 
 the report of a fufee, fired almoft at my ear, 
 made me ftart, and filled me with the greater 
 fear, as it was unexpedied. Knowing that it 
 could be fired only by fome of my people, 1 ran 
 towards the place whence the iound fecmed 
 to proceed, and found one of my worfl: markf- 
 men wafting my powder in vain. He told 
 me that he had been watching an hi]ipopo- 
 tamus from the break of day, that he had 
 
 fired 
 
330 TRAVEIS IN 
 
 fired at him, and that he had not the leaft 
 doubt of his being killed. A very unfkilful 
 hand may fometiities do execution by chance; 
 and though it was neceflary to wait more than 
 a quarter of an hour before we could fee the 
 anim.al rife up from the water, I refolved to 
 watch him myfelf, and to fend my Hottentot 
 in queft of more people ; giving him orders 
 at the fame time to bring me fome refrefhment 
 At the end of an hour and an half, which I 
 paiTed very impatiently, my people arrived, 
 but the hippopotamus had not appeared. The 
 hunter however afTured me, that after he had 
 fired he had feen him plunge into the water, 
 and had obferved aifo a violent ebullition and 
 feveral fpots of blood on the furface. He 
 added, that the current being very ftrong, the 
 animal might perhaps have been carried away 
 by it, which I thought very probable ; on this 
 account he fet out in hopes of finding it lower 
 down, while I returned to my camp to diffeit 
 the birds which I had killed. 
 
 About three in the afternoon we were at- 
 tacked by a dreadful ftorm ; and the foreft 
 which bordered the mountain was feveral 
 times ftruck witli lightning. One of my 
 people returned with an antelope he had 
 
 killed : 
 
AFRICA. 331 
 
 killed ; and he who had fired at the river horfe 
 came back very late without having fecn any 
 thing. This difappointment afTorded his com- 
 panions a iubjed for ridiculing him. He be- 
 came the objedt of the farcafms of all my wits ; 
 every one put in his word ; and they wiihed 
 to perfuade him that the animal at which he 
 fired had been only a guana'^. Thefe plea- 
 fantries being infenfibly converted into abufe, 
 I obferved that their ridicule was about to be 
 terminated by a combat with fifts ; but by one 
 word I put an end to their warmth, and made 
 the orators be filent. 
 
 On the 14th the rain fell fo abundantly 
 during the whole night, that it extingullhed 
 our fires, nor was it polTible for us to kindle 
 them again. Our dogs made a dreadful noife, 
 which kept us all awake, but we faw no fero- 
 cious animals. 1 obferved that in thefe rainy 
 nights the lion, the tyger, and the hy^na, are 
 entirely filent, and it is then that the grcateft 
 danger is to be apprehended ; for as thefe ani- 
 mals never ceafe on fuch occafions to range 
 through the fields, they fall upon their prey 
 without giving warning, and without allowing 
 
 * The guana is a kind oHurge lizard, very common ia 
 
 the rivers of Africa. 
 
 people 
 
332 TRAVELS IN 
 
 people time to be upon their guard. What 
 ftill adds to the dread which this difagreeable 
 circumftance occafions is, that the moifture 
 deprives the dogs of their fenfe of fmelling, 
 and on this account they are of no ufe. My 
 people were too well aware of this danger ; 
 for when the rain had put out our fires, it 
 was with great difficulty they could be pre- 
 vailed on to re-light them, fo much were they 
 iifraid of being furprifed. 
 
 It muft indeed be allowed, that fiormy 
 nights in the defarts of Africa exhibit a pic- 
 ture of defolation, and people find themfelves 
 involuntarily ftruck with terror. When they 
 are furprifed by thefe deluges, they foon 
 penetrate a tent, ..and inundate all the mats; 
 continued flafhes of lightning in their rapid 
 paffage exhibit a mornentary blaze amidft the 
 inoft profcund obfcurity; the loud claps of 
 thunder, which burft forth on all fides with an 
 awful noife, feem to clafh together, and are 
 multiplied by being re-echoed from mountain 
 to mountain ; the cries of domeftic animals, 
 and a few intervals of dreadful filence, all con- 
 fpire to render the fcene more difmal, while 
 the danger of being attacked by ferocious 
 beafts ftill adds to the common terror: no^ 
 
 thing 
 
AFRICA. -;^;^ 
 
 thing but the appearance of day can leffcn the 
 dread, and reftore tranquillity to nature. 
 
 The following morning was flill gloomy: 
 the atmofphere was loaded with clouds, and 
 the rain redoubled at intervals. Being there- 
 fore little difpofed to go abroad, I employed 
 myfelf in reviewing my colleftion of birds, 
 which I had recently preferved. As I had a 
 fufficient quantity to fill a box, I arranged 
 them in one with much care, and daubed it 
 over with pitch as ulual, to prevent infers 
 from getting into it. The number of thofe 
 which I then poflefled, added to thofe I had 
 before fent from the country of Auteniqua, 
 already exceeded feven hundred. 
 
 About four in the afternoon the fky be- 
 came ferene, and very feafonably revived 
 our drooping fpirits. We refumed there- 
 fore our ufual occupations, and I amufed my- 
 felf with making my people fire at a mark, 
 which afforded them much entertainment. 
 From time to time I took care to grant them^ 
 this indulgence, as it exercifed them ; and I 
 remarked, from the commencement of my 
 journey, that their courage increafed in pro- 
 portion to their dexterity : but they confidered 
 as a great fiwour what I permitted only with 
 
 a po|it5><f^^^ 
 
334 TRAVELS IN 
 
 a political view of procuring more fafety to 
 my caravan. The ordinary prize was a ra- 
 tion of tobacco ; a bottle fufpended from a rock 
 was the mark, and the conditions were to 
 break it at the diflance of two hundred and 
 fifty paces. One named Pit gained the prize 
 that day at the fifty-fourth fliot ; and he very 
 generoufly fhared it with all the reft who had 
 contended. The balls were not all loft; they 
 were almoft all found at the bottom of the 
 rock, but it was neceifary to have them ail caft 
 again. 
 
 As the fetting of the fun feemed to an- 
 nounce fine weather the next morning, I 
 formed a defign of hunting hippopotami in 
 proper form. I fent feveral men to try what 
 difcoveries they could make on the banks of 
 the river : we cleaned all our fire-arms, and we 
 caft feveral balls of a large fize, into which I 
 put, according to the African cuftom, an eighth 
 part of tin. By tliefe means balls are capable 
 of m*aking a greater refiftance, and they pene- 
 trate better, becaufe they do not become fiat 
 when they meet with bones. Their elfeft 
 would be more certain were it poffible to em- 
 ploy pure tin only ; but being then much 
 lighter, they would not fly fo far, nor hit (o 
 
 exactly. 
 
AFRICA. ^is 
 
 exadly. After our fires were kindled for 
 the night, which was not eafily done, as the 
 earth w^as moid, and our wood exceedingly 
 wet, I regaled my people with tea, and I am 
 certain that upon one ounce they poured at 
 leaft fifty pints of boiling water. 
 
 This evening was one of the moft amufing 
 I had ever fpent. I had ftill the fame jokes 
 and the fame merry tales from thefe good peo- 
 ple, w^ho, all feated around a large fire, en- 
 deavoured to divert their mailer, and, defirous 
 to engage his attention and give him proofs 
 of their attachment and fincerity, made him 
 eafily forget what mafter-piece was crowned 
 that day in fuch or fuch an academy. ]\Iy 
 Lyceum was undoubtedly as good as any 
 other of the fame kind. The prowefs to be 
 fhewn next morning in hunting the hippo- 
 potamus was above all brought upon the car- 
 pet : every body hoped to be of the party ; 
 and I found ereat difficulty in arrauLrino^ it 
 fo as to pleafe all. I was defirous that fome 
 of thefe fportfmen fhould difperfe themfclves 
 throughout the country, to fiioot antelopes, on 
 which I depended more for provifions than 
 on hippopotami, as the banks of the river 
 %yere fo covered with reeds and large trees, 
 
 that 
 
:i26 TRAVELS IN 
 
 that It always appeared to me more and more 
 difEcult to difcover them, and to get near 
 them. As night was in the mean time ad- 
 vancing, and as I did not fee thofe hunters 
 aiTive whom I had fent out to make difco- 
 veries, I ordered my largeft piece to be fired 
 three times ; yet it was nearly half an hour be- 
 fore they returned any anfwer. At length, 
 however, we heard, four or five minutes after 
 each other, three reports, which made us con- 
 clude that they had perhaps fallen in with 
 fome of thefe animals. A quarter of an horn- 
 after, we heard three reports more ; but the 
 found did not feem to proceed from fo great 
 a diftance as the former : at length the firing 
 continued at certain intervals, and feemed 
 more and more to approach us ; which induced 
 us to believe that thefe unfortunate people 
 were purfued by fome ferocious animals. On 
 this account, I ran immediately to meet them; 
 and, when I found them, they appeared to be 
 trembling and in great terror. They had, 
 however, feen nothing; but, by the reftleflnefs 
 of the two dogs which they had carried with 
 them, it was too clear that their lives had been 
 in danger from lions, and that they had nar- 
 rowly efcaped. The dogs indeed had not 
 
 deceived 
 
AFRICA. 337 
 
 deceived them. I learned from them alfo, 
 that they had heard the fnorting of fome hip- 
 popotami above the place in which they had 
 hid themfelves : this account renewed my 
 hopes ; but, as we had great need of repofe, I 
 retired to my tent. Scarcely had I fallen 
 afleep, when, at about half an hour after ele- 
 ven, I was fuddenly alarmed by the roaring 
 of a lion, which was heard by another, that 
 feemed at firft to anfwer from a very great 
 diftance; but in a quarter of an hour the latter 
 joined him, and both of them began to prowl 
 around our camp. We marched about, how- 
 ever, with fo much bolJnefs and fpeed, and 
 we fired fo often, that we intimidated them 
 by the noife, and obliged them to depart. 
 We were now under no doubt that they were 
 the fame which had followed our hunters. 
 On this occafion they were indebted for their 
 fafety to the dogs, which they had carried 
 along with them : being informed by them 
 of the danger which threatened them, the 
 fignals of diftrefs direded to us had been fuf- 
 ficient to keep the enemy at a diftance. 
 
 It is hardly pofiible to conceive how much 
 the boldeft dogs tremble on the approacli of a 
 lion. Nothing is fo cafy as to difcovcr, by 
 
 Vol, I. Z their 
 
338 TRAVELS IN 
 
 their looks, during the night, what kind of 
 ferocious animals are in the neighbourhood. 
 If it be a lion, the dog, without ftirring from 
 the fpot, begins to howl in a moft melan- 
 choly tone ; he feems very uneafy and reft- 
 lefs ; he approaches his mafter, keeps clofe to 
 him, and fawns upon him as if he meant to 
 fay, Tou ?mijl defend me. Other domeftic ani- 
 mals are under no lefs agitation ; all of them 
 ftart up ; not one of them remains in a lying 
 pofture ; and the oxen bellow in a plaintive 
 manner, but with a low voice. Horfes beat 
 the earth, and caper about in all diredions ; 
 goats exprefs their fear alfo by peculiar figns ; 
 and flieep, with their heads hung down, col- 
 lect themfelves into a body, and prefs a& 
 clofely againft one another as they can. They 
 appear then as one mafs, and continue in that 
 pofition without the leaft motion. Man alone^ 
 haughty and confident of his own fuperiority^ 
 fnatches up his arms, palpitates with impa- 
 tience, and pant& after his vidim. 
 
 On fuch occafions the terror of Kees was 
 flill more apparent. As much frightened by 
 the reports of our fufees which we fired on 
 the approach of the lion, the leaft movement 
 would make him ftart ; he moaned like a fick 
 
 perfon^ 
 
AFRICA. 339 
 
 perfon, and dragged himfelf along at my fide 
 in a mofl languid condition. My cock fecmed 
 only aftoniihed at the convulfive agitation of 
 my camp, while a common hawk would have 
 thrown him into the greateft conflernation. 
 He dreaded the fmell of a weafel more than 
 all the lions of Africa united. Thus each 
 being has fome enem.y which it dclies, and 
 the latter in its turn bends before a flronger. 
 Man, however, braves all, except thofe of his 
 own fpecies. 
 
 We indeed fee animals of the fame kind 
 fight with one another; but they are impelled 
 to this, merely for a moment, by love, the 
 only pafTion that difunites them, after wliich 
 every thing again returns to its former order. 
 A more continued and du.able hatred may 
 however be obferved among domeilic animals. 
 Is this the effed of education or of example ? 
 
 But I return to the different llgns by whicli 
 danger is announced ; and it may be readily 
 believed that no one has had a better oppor- 
 tunity of obferving them in the minuteft man- 
 ner. All the books and compilations, and all 
 the fpeculative eloquence in the world, can 
 never overturn obfcrvations (o often repea':cd 
 on the grand theatre of the Afiicau dcfarts. 
 
 Z a If 
 
 t>' 
 
340 TRAVELS IN 
 
 If it be an hysena that is prowling in the 
 neighbourhood, the boldeft of the dogs pur- 
 fues him to a certain diftance, and feems not 
 to.be much afraid of him; and an ox con- 
 tinues lying without manifefting terror, un- 
 lefs it be a young one, w^hich for the firft time 
 hears this dangerous animal. The cafe is the 
 fame with the horfe, which, with his foot tied 
 to his halter, remains all night in the mea- 
 dows, and ihews no kind of fear. 
 
 If it be jackals (a kind of foxes) that 
 are ranging around, the dogs purfue them 
 brifkly as far as poffible ; unlefs, happily for 
 the latter, there be lions or hyaenas in the 
 neighbourhood ; for as foon as they perceive 
 them, fear obliges them to return, and brings 
 them foon back to their retreat. 
 
 The Hottentots pretend that the jackal is 
 a fpy to other ferocious animals, and that it 
 comes to provoke and detain the dogs, in 
 order that the Hon or the hysena, feizing that 
 opportunity, may more eafily lay hold of their 
 prey, which, as an acknowledgment for the 
 fervice received, they ihare amicably with 
 diem. 
 
 What I have fcen confirms pretty ftrongly 
 this aliertionj which, perhaps, may be a little 
 
 exag-- 
 
AFRICA. 341 
 
 exaggerated. However this may he, it Is 
 certain that the moment tlic jackals begin 
 their concerts, the hyasnas never fail to arrive 
 fpeedily ; but they do not fliew thcmfelvcs 
 openly, till they lee the dogs fully engaged. 
 We always kept two of them coupled toge- 
 ther, to bark in the abl'ence of the reft, in or- 
 der to prevent the hyrenas, whicli are lefs 
 afraid of fire than the lion, from approaching 
 too near us. 
 
 Next morning, the 15th, day-light had 
 fcarcely appeared, when we were on foot. Af- 
 ter breakfaft, I difpatched three hunters to 
 the woods and the plain, with orders to fearch 
 for buffaloes, antelopes, gnous, and koedoes ; 
 whilft I took with me four of the beft Ihoot- 
 ers, and three men to carry my large carabine, 
 ammunition, and a few pieces of dried flelh, 
 in cafe we fhould be obliged to pafs the whole 
 day in the field ; and, leaving old Swanepoel, 
 with the reft of my peole, to guard the camp, 
 we departed. 
 
 In going along the fide of the river, we 
 kept as near the banks as we could, obfcrv- 
 ing the greateft filence. In this manner wc 
 marched three hours without dlfcovering any 
 thing ; but perceiving at length the tra(5t of 
 
 Z 3 ^'^ 
 
342 TRAVELS IN 
 
 an hippopotamus which muft have pafled 
 that way in the night, we followed it for an 
 hour and a half, and it conduced us to the 
 place where the animal had thrown itfelf into 
 the water; upon which we diftributed ourfelves 
 along the banks, at a certain diftance one from 
 the other, to liften. The perfon who was at 
 the greateft diftance having difcharged his 
 fufee, we ran towards him, and fouiid that he 
 had fired at the animal, but miffed it. Very 
 luckily we did not wait long before we faw 
 it appear again, and heard it breathe, but 
 it had reached the opponte fhore. Though 
 the river was very broad, two of my per.ple 
 fwam over, in hopes of forcing it to keep at 
 leaft in the middle, if they could not bring 
 it within reach of us. This attempt per- 
 fed:ly fucceeded ; but the animal was fo ti^ 
 mid, that when it breathed it fcarcely raifed 
 its noftrils above the furface of the water. 
 As It changed its place every moment, it 
 never fhewed itfelf in the fpot where we 
 were v/aiting for it, and it plunged fo 
 often and fo quickly, that it gave us no time 
 to take aim. We had already fired thirty 
 times without touching it. The two Hot-^ 
 teatots who crofTed the river had nofufeesj 
 A and 
 
AFRICA. 
 
 343 
 
 and the cunning animal remarking that they 
 did not fire, kept continually on that lide. I 
 therefore difpatched Pit, who had won the 
 prize in fliooting at a mark, ordering him to 
 crofs the river out of the animal's fight, to 
 join his companions by going a little way 
 about, and, above all, not to fire till he was 
 fure of his aim : all which he executed with 
 much intelligence. The animal, which on 
 the other fide thought Itfelf out of our. 
 reach, having no fufpicion, raifcd its whole 
 head fometimes out of the water, and at one 
 of thefe moments. Pit direded his fliot fo 
 Well, that the hippopotamus received it, and 
 immediately dived. It was feverely wound- 
 ed, I am certain, for it appeared foon after 
 with the greater part of its body above the 
 furface, and agitated with convulfive motions. 
 Embracing this opportunity, I fired, and 
 lodged my ball in its breaft, upon which it 
 again plunged, and did not appear till the ex- 
 piration of twenty-feven minutes. Being then 
 dead, it floated along with the current, and 
 fome of my people having fwam, to it, puflicd 
 it towards us clofe to the bank. 
 
 I can fcarcely defcribe the joy which we all 
 felt whea we at length iiiw this monftrou^ 
 
 2 4 animal 
 
344 TRAVELS IN 
 
 animal in our pofleflion ; but I and my people 
 were adluated by very different motives. 
 Gluttony prefented it to their eyes as a de- 
 licious morfel, on which they were about to 
 feed ; whilft curiofity exhibited it to my mind 
 as an interefting objed of natural hiftory, 
 which I did not know but from books and 
 engravings. 
 
 The legs of this animal being very fhort in 
 proportion to its bulk, favoured us fo much, 
 that we were able to roll it to land, as we 
 would have rolled a German bully. The ani- 
 mal was alfo round; and I could not be fatif- 
 fied with admiring and examining this enor- 
 mous mafs, which was a fem.ale, with the mi- 
 nuteft attention. Pit's ball had ftruck exadly 
 above the left eye, and was found lodged in 
 its jaw ; but I much doubted whether that had 
 occafioned its death. Mine, on the contrary, 
 entering precifely near the omoplate, had bro- 
 ken one of its ribs, and paffed through its 
 lungs from one fide to another. 
 
 From the muzzle to the root of the tail, it 
 was ten feet feven inches in length, and eight 
 feet eleven inches in circumference. Its tufks, 
 which were crooked, were only five inches in 
 length, and an inch in diameter in the thickeft 
 
 part, 
 
AFRICA, 345 
 
 part, which induced mc to believe that it was 
 a young one. I found no foetus in it ; and 
 its ftomach contained nothing but fome leaves 
 and a few chewed reeds, I even obferved 
 pieces of branches of the fize of a goofe quill, 
 which were only flatted. In the ftomach or 
 excrements, it is generally remarked that 
 large animals, fuch as the rhinoceros and the 
 elephant, triturate very (lightly the different 
 kinds of food which they eat. 
 
 All the figures of the hippopotamus hitherto 
 
 given are very imperfedl; the beft I know 
 
 is undoubtedly that of Mr. Allaman, profeffor 
 
 of medicine at Leyden. It was engraved 
 
 from a drawing fent to him by Mr. Gordon. 
 
 In my defcription of animals, I ifhall copy that 
 
 which I executed myfelf, and I hope that it 
 
 will give fatisfadiion to naturalifts. When I 
 
 had finifhed my obfervations, I immediately 
 
 difpatched a Hottentot to bring two yoke of 
 
 ftrong oxen next morning, to tranfport our 
 
 capture; and, as it was now dark, we chofe out 
 
 a large tree, at the root of which we propofed 
 
 to pafs the night : but we did not go far from 
 
 the banks of the river ; for as we could not 
 
 roll the animal farther, and were unwilling to 
 
 expofe it to the chance of being devoured by 
 
 wild 
 
546 TRAVELS IN 
 
 Wild hearts, we were under the neceflity of 
 having it in our view. We were not fur- 
 rounded or covered by many trees; and this 
 rendered our lituation ftill more critical. We 
 might indeed have been eafily furprifed ; but 
 by means of extraordinary fires which we 
 kindled, and of twenty fhots fired at intervals, 
 we remained all night in perfecft tranquillity. 
 We were not however able to fleep, for we 
 were tormented by myriads of gnats, attraded 
 by the vicinity of the vv^ater, and the coolnefs 
 of the place we had chofen. One of my 
 Hottentots, who fell afleep, was fo ftung by 
 them, that his face fwelled fo much as to ren* 
 der it almoft impoflible to know him. 
 
 I took care to order one of the feet of the 
 hippopotamus to be cut off, which my people 
 prepared in the fame manner as that of the 
 firft elephant I killed in paffing the mountain 
 called Duyvals-Kop, to go from the country 
 of Auteniqua to that of Ange-Kloof. I found 
 great difficulty in fetting my people to work, 
 for they had fpent the whole night in fluffing 
 themfelves with the flefh of the hippopotamus. 
 I faw them broil pieces two or three feet in 
 length, and a foot in breadth ; and they feem- 
 ed to be in want of nothing except fleep, 
 
 The 
 
AFRICA. 34.7 
 
 The foot which had been dreffed for me 
 during the night was fervcd up for my break- 
 faft ; it was exceedingly nourilliing ; and I 
 thought it even fupcrior to that of die ele- 
 phant : it was more delicate, and I never eat 
 any thing in rny life with more pleafure. 
 
 Though the hippopotamus is extremely fat, 
 its greafe has nothing in it difgufling; and it 
 does not produce any of thofe bad efPedts 
 which are occafioned by that of other animals. 
 My people melted it, and drank it from bafms, 
 as if it had been broth. Befides this, by rub- 
 bing it over their bodies, they ihone as much 
 as if they had been varnifhed, and their fwollen 
 bellies fufficiently lliewed that they had not 
 been very fparing in their repalls during the 
 night. 
 
 I had forgot to order a horfe for myfelf ; 
 but Swanepoel fupplicd this omiffion ; for 
 the heat was exceflive, and we were diliant 
 full fix leagues from my camp. Having fixed 
 a large chain to the head of the hippopotamus, 
 and yoked twelve oxen to it, while they went 
 along the banks of the river they experienced 
 much difficulty and fatigue, cither from the 
 inequality of the road, or from the trunks of 
 large trees, which every moment interrupted 
 
 their 
 
348 TRAVELS IN 
 
 their paflage ; but when we once arrived at 
 the level country, which was covered wdth 
 long grafs, I ordered the oxen to be reheved ; 
 and obfervdng that they went on at a good 
 pace, I mounted my horfe, to get before 
 them. Yager, my favourite dog, which never 
 quitted me, and always followed me in my 
 hunting excurfions, was obliged for this time 
 to remain behind, not being able to keep up 
 with me. He copied the example of my 
 Hottentots, and did not arrive with them till 
 five in the afternoon. 
 
 The three hunters whom I had fent out in 
 another quarter had alfo returned completely 
 loaded, having killed two gnous and three 
 antelopes ; fo that we found ourfelves fuffi- 
 ciently flocked with provifions : but the great 
 heat, and the fridlion of the hippopotamus 
 againft the earth, had fo mangled and hurt its 
 body, that fome of the moil tender and deli- 
 cate parts were fpoilt, and began to fmell. On 
 this account we were obliged to employ the 
 night in cutting it up : part of it was falted in 
 the fkins of the two gnous which my hunters 
 had brought with them ; and the choice mor^ 
 fels I ordered to be put into a brandy barrel, 
 the head of which we knocked out after we 
 
 had 
 
AFRICA. 349 
 
 had drawn off the Hquor into earthen jugs. 
 This operation afforded my people an oppor- 
 tunity of getting drunk. 
 
 The night following our two lions returned 
 again, and I imagined that all the jackals and 
 hycenas of the country had affembled to pay 
 us a vifit. One of the latter had the boldnefs 
 to crofs our fires, and to advance clofe to the 
 fpot where we were. A Hottentot difcharged 
 his piece at it, but he unluckily miffed his aim. 
 The jackals even entered our camp; and, with- 
 out the affiftance of our dogs, we fhould have 
 been forced to Ihare our booty with thefe ani- 
 mals, which feemed determined not to be dif- 
 appointed. 
 
 Next morning my people were employed in 
 cutting to pieces the hide of the hippopotamus, 
 to make w^hat in the country are called chan- 
 hoc. Thefe are w^hips for flogging the oxea 
 which are under the hand of the driver on the 
 pole of the waggon : they are fhaped like thofe 
 ufed in Europe for horfes, but they are thicker 
 and longer ; and as the fkin, where ftrongeft, 
 may be about two inches in thicknefs, they 
 are cut into thongs two inches broad, which 
 makes thefe pieces about two inches fquare. 
 They are fometimes fix feet in length, and 
 
 when 
 
350 TRAVELS IN 
 
 when cut out a weight is fufpended at their 
 lower extremity, to make them dry fooner. 
 A round form is then given them by beating 
 them with a mallet, obferving to make them 
 taper to a point at one of the ends. Thofe 
 which are made fmaller for riding have this 
 advantage over thofe of Europe, that they 
 never break, efpecially if from time to time 
 care be taken to moiften them with a little 
 oil. 
 
 The fkin of the rhinoceros is employed for 
 the fame purpofe ; and the inhabitants of the 
 Cape give it the preference (though a v/hip 
 made of this is far from being equally folid as 
 that made of the other), becaufe it is capable 
 of receiving a finer polifh, has the beautiful 
 colour of horn, and becomes almoft as 
 tranfparent. 
 
 • With regard to the planters, who have no 
 tafte for elegance, and who prefer the ufeful 
 to the agreeable, they employ only the former. 
 Both, indeed, are fold at a very high rate, as the 
 animals which furnifh the materials for mak- 
 ing thefc whips are no longer found in the 
 colonies, and as thofe Individuals vv^ho fome- 
 tlmes penetrate farther are not always certain 
 of meeting with them. 
 
 The 
 
AFRICA, 3JI 
 
 The fkin, however, of thefe animals can- 
 not be better employed. It has a great re- 
 femblance, if we except its thicknefs, to that 
 of the hog ; and the hippopotamus approaches 
 very near to that animal. To perlbns not 
 previoufly informed, their fat would appear to 
 be entirely the Hime ; and, if that of the hip- 
 popotamus could be falted with all the precau- 
 tions neceffaiy, it might be preferred with 
 more juftice, as In all the colonies it is reck- 
 oned very wholefome. The people of the 
 Cape are perfuaded that, taken in a potion, It 
 is fufficient to cure radically thofe w^ho are af- 
 flicled with diforders of the breaft. That which 
 I preferved in bottles made of fkins had the 
 ufual confiftency of olive oil, during the 
 great colds of winter. 
 
 The tufks of the hippopotamus are en- 
 dowed wdth a quality which renders them 
 preferable to Ivory. The latter, in time, be- 
 comes yellow ; but, in whatever manner the 
 former may be prepared, they retain their 
 whitenefs in all its purity. It is not there- 
 fore aftoniiliing that the Europeans, and, 
 above all, the French, confider them as a great 
 objeft of traffic. By the affiftance of art they 
 fupply the deficiencies of nature, and make 
 
 a mo ft 
 
352 TRAVELS IN 
 
 a mort admirable figure in the mouth of a 
 pretty woman. 
 
 This prize was fo feducing that my Hot- 
 tentots depended on enjoying the pleafure of 
 a fecond hunting excurfion ; but I found that 
 we had a fufEciency of provifions, and that it 
 would be better to employ our time more ufe- 
 fully, and to vary our occupations, or rather 
 our pleafures, a little more. Having a ftrong 
 inclination to try my net here, it was with 
 great difficulty we could find a place in the 
 river convenient for calling it ; we however, 
 fomehow fucceeded ; but we caught only 
 about twenty fifh, of different kinds. The 
 largeft were fcarcely fix inches in length ; and 
 when fried in the greafe of the hippopotamus 
 they appeared to me excellent. As this fport 
 procured us no advantage worthy of attention^ 
 and as I was difgufted with the embarraffment 
 we experienced in approaching the river in 
 the manner we wifhed, I ordered the net to 
 be carried away* During the time my people 
 were employed in folding it, a bird perched 
 near us, which, inftead of being frightened by 
 our prefence, approached more and morcj 
 fending forth very {hrill cries. I was told 
 that it was the bird which difcovers honey ; 
 1 sjiid 
 
AFRICA. • 353 
 
 and I remarked in Its geftures and cry a great 
 affinity with thofe of the bird known to orni- 
 thologifts under the name of the cuculus indi^ 
 cator ; but it was much larger than thofc which 
 I had before feen. My Hottentots, who re- 
 fped it on account of the fervices which it 
 renders them, begged me to fpare it. A new 
 fpecies, however, was to be added to my 
 colledion, and I killed it. This bird is of 
 the genus of the common indicator^ but larger, 
 and different in its plumage ; it is a variety 
 of it. 
 
 I did more afterwards, I killed three dif- 
 ferent fpecies of thefe birds, all equally indi- 
 cators. 
 
 The favages of Africa know them well, and 
 treat them as deities. They live only on ho- 
 ney or wax ; and it is they that involuntarily 
 point out to them where they will find abun- 
 dant repofitories of both. 
 
 Naturalifts, for what reafon I know not, 
 place the indicator among the cuckoos; it has 
 no relation, however, to this genus, but in the 
 conformation of its feet; and being different 
 by other phyfical charaders, it is mucli more 
 fo by its manner of living. At the rifk of 
 being expofed to an anathema from the cabi- 
 
 VoL. L A a nets 
 
354 TRAVELS IN 
 
 nets of the fcientific, I mufl continually repeat 
 that large volumes piled up in libraries are no- 
 thing to the book of nature ; and that an error, 
 though fupported by an hundred eloquent 
 pens, is neverthelefs ftill an error. 
 
 This bird is no more a cuckoo than pies, 
 barbets, perroquets, toucans, and all thofe fpe-» 
 cies which have two toes before and two be- 
 hind. If it is to be ranked in any known 
 clafs, it would belong rather to that of the 
 barbets, becaufe it has more affinity to thefe. 
 
 In its ftomach I found nothing but honey 
 and wax : I did not obferve the fmalleft por- 
 tion of any infed. Its fkin is thick, and fo 
 tough, that when it is frefh it can fcarcely be 
 penetrated by a pin. This to me is an inftance 
 of the w^onderful precaution of nature, which 
 having cieftined it to contend for its fub- 
 fiftence with the moft ingenious of all infeds, 
 gave it a covering ftrong enough to defend it, 
 from their flings. 
 
 It builds its neft in hollow trees, climbs up 
 to it in the fame manner as the wood-pecker, 
 and hatches its eggs itfelf. This circumftance 
 is fufficient to feparate it totally from the 
 cuckoo, and to make it a nev/ genus. 
 
 In my ornithology will be given accurate 
 
 figures 
 
A F R I C Ao 23 S 
 
 figures and deferiptions of the three fpecies of 
 indicators which I know. 
 
 My Hottentot, Klaas, on returning from 
 hunting, brought me an eagle which he had 
 killed. It was a fpecies 1 had never before 
 feen, and which no author has defcribed. For 
 this fervice, I rewarded him in a proper man- 
 ner, and gave him a ration of tobacco \ not 
 that I ought to be generous towards a man 
 whom I tenderly loved, and to whom I could 
 not refufe the fmalleft favour, without being 
 cruel, but by his example to excite all my 
 people to make fome difcoverics. 
 
 This bird, which was entirely black, feemed 
 to me, by its charadleriftics, to belong rather to 
 the vulture than the eagle kind ; but I knew 
 that it differed in its manners* In every thing 
 elfe, the analogy is very great ; for, when ne- 
 cc^flary, the eagle becomes a vulture ; that is to 
 fay, when prelTed by hunger, if nothing bet- 
 ter occurs, for the moment, it feeds as well as 
 any other bird of prey upon rotten carrion ; 
 and it is a great error to imagine that it lives 
 only upon what it catches itfelf. When I 
 caufed the remains of the large animals we 
 had killed to be fcattered in the fields, in or- 
 der to attrad carnivorous birds, eagles and 
 
 A a 2 butcher- 
 
^S^ TRAVELS IN 
 
 butcher-birds came alfo to partake of them^ 
 as well as vultures. 
 
 I muft here afk pardon of the ancient and 
 modern poets, for thus degrading the dignity 
 of this noble animal : it is fhocking I con- 
 fefsj to fee this fublime bird of the mafter of 
 the gods fall fliamefully upon the fcattered 
 remains of an infedtious carcafe, and feed with 
 great pleafure. 
 
 On the 1 8th we fpent part of the night In 
 firing our pieces to drive away two more 
 lions, and a voracious flock of hysenas. I did 
 not fleep till very late, and when I awaked I 
 was greatly furprifed to find about a fcore of 
 the Gonaqua Hottentots in my camp. This 
 vifit, and its confequences, defei've a more 
 ample detail. The reader, in this plain nar- 
 ration, will acquire jufter ideas refpecting the 
 African favages, than from all the diifertations 
 of philofophers. 
 
 The chief approached to pay his refpecls to 
 me, and the women in full drefs marched be- 
 hind him. They all fhone very much, and 
 had been newly boiighoued \ that is to fay,, after 
 rubbing their bodies with greafe, they had 
 befprinkled themfelves with a kind of red pow^ 
 der, made of ii root named in the country 
 
 boughou^ 
 
AFRICA. 357 
 
 Imighou^ and which has a very agreeable odor. 
 Their faces were all painted in a different 
 manner, and each of them made me fome 
 fmall prefent. One gave me oftrich's eggs, 
 another a young lamb, and fome offered me 
 an abundant pro^^lflon of millc in baflzcts 
 which appeared to be made of ofier. Thefe 
 iitenfils aftonifhed mc much. " Milk in baf- 
 '^ kets !" faid I : " fuch an invention undoubt- 
 ** edly announces a great deal of ingenuity !" 
 And calling to mind thofe milk veffels made 
 of copper, which were formerly ufed at Paris, 
 before they were profcribed by the wifdom of 
 the police, I perceived, on comparing them 
 with the former, how inferior a great people, 
 with all their arts, their learned men, and their 
 Louvre, often are, in refped of their fimplefl 
 wants, to thofe whom they affe(5l to defpife, 
 
 Thefe pretty bafkets are woven of fo deli- 
 cate reeds, and fo clofe in their texture, that 
 they may be employed in carrying w^ater ; on 
 this account I found them of very great fervice 
 afterwards. The chief of the Gonaquas in- 
 form.ed me that they were made by the 
 Caffres, from whom they procured them by 
 giving them other things in exchange. 
 
 Th^ chief, who was named Haabas^ made 
 Aa 3 me 
 
SsS TRAVELS IN 
 
 ,me a prefent of a bunch of oftrich feathers, 
 exceedirxgly beautiful. To Ihew him how 
 much I valued it, I immediately tore away a 
 plume of the fame kind, which I wore in my 
 hat, and put his in its place. By the looks of 
 the good old man, I could eafily perceive ho\y 
 inuch he was pleafed with what I had done ; 
 and he ftill farther teftified by his geftures and 
 words the fatisfadlion he received from my 
 condud:. 
 
 It was now my turn to fliew my gratitude 
 to the chief, and I began by giving him a fey/ 
 pounds of tobacco. I was about to enjoy a 
 mod agreeable fcene at very little expence, 
 and to render more than one happy. By a 
 comrnon fignal Haabas ordered all his people 
 to approach ; and in an inftant they formed 
 themfelves into a circle, and fquatted down 
 like fo many apes. All the tobacco was dif- 
 tributed ; and I remarked, with much pleafure, 
 that the portion which Haabas referved for 
 himfelf was not larger than any of the reft. I 
 was fenfibly affeded by this goodnefs of heart 
 and fpirit of juftice, which he difplayedin fo 
 fimple and natural a manner ; and I gave him 
 for himfelf, in addition to the prefent made be- 
 fore, a knife, a piece of fteel, a box of tinder, 
 
 and 
 
AFRICA. 359 
 
 ^nd a necklace of large glafs beads. To the 
 women I gave beads and copper wire for 
 bracelets. Amidfl thefe reciprocal prefents and 
 the fentiments of affe^lion with which they 
 mutually infpired us, I obferved a young girl 
 of fixteen confounded witli the crowd, who 
 ihewed more curiofity in examining my per- 
 fon, than eagernefs to fliare in the trinkets 
 which I was diRributing to her companions. 
 She looked at me with fo much attention, 
 that I approached her that ilie might have 
 more time to furvey me at her leifure. I found 
 that her figure was altogether enchanting; -Hie 
 had the frefheft and the mofl: beautiful teeth 
 in the w^orld ; her perfon was flender and 
 elegant, and her iliape, formed to infpire love, 
 might have ferved as a m.odel for the pencil 
 of Albano. She was the youngeft of the 
 Graces, under the figure of a Hottentot. 
 
 The im.preflions made by beauty are uni- 
 verfid : it is a fovereign who reigns over all ; 
 and I w%as fenfible, by the profufion of my 
 prefents, that I bowed a little under its fway. 
 My young favage foon grew familiar. I had 
 given her a girdle, a pair of bracelets, and a 
 necklace of large white beads, with which Ihe 
 fecmed to, be highly delighted. I untied froiu 
 A a A niy 
 
36o TRAVELS IN 
 
 my neck a red handkerchief, which (he wrap- 
 ped round her head ; and with this drefs fhe 
 was what in polite language might be called 
 charming. I took great pleafiire in ornament- 
 ing her myfelf; and, when I had finifhed, fhe 
 requefted Ibme trinkets for her fifter, who had 
 remained with the horde. With her finger 
 fhe pointed out her mother ; and at the fame 
 time informed me that fhe had no father. I 
 haraffed her with queftions, for I found fo 
 many charms in her anfwers. Nothing could 
 equal the pleafare I enjoyed In feeing her, 
 except that which I received from her con-^ 
 verfation. I allied her to remain with me, and 
 made her promifes of every kind ; but when I 
 fpoke to her, above ail, of carrying her with me 
 to Europe ; w^here I faid all the women v/ere 
 queens, and commanded hordes of flaves ; far 
 from fufFering herfelf to be tempted, fhe 
 rejcfted all my propofals, and without any 
 ceremony began to grow peevilh and impa^ 
 tient. A monarch could not have overcome 
 her refiftance, and the forrcw which flie felt 
 from the mere idea of quitting her family and 
 her horde. I concluded by begging her at 
 leaft to bring her fifter to me, telling her that 
 fixe would have every reafon to be fatisfied in 
 
 her 
 
AFRICA. 361 
 
 her turn. This flie prornifed to do ; and atth 
 fame inftant fhe fixed her eyes upon a chair 
 that ftood not far from me. Having fhewn 
 me a knife which I had left there by chance, 
 I prefented it to her, and fhe immediately 
 gave it to her mother. 
 
 This girl's v^hole thoughts were continually 
 engaged by her drefs, which to her was entirely 
 new. She touched her arms, her feet, her neck- 
 lace, and her girdle, and put her hands twenty 
 times to her head to feel her handkerchief, 
 which pleafed her much. Having opened my 
 dreffrng-box, I drew from it a mirror, which 
 I placed before her ; and fhe furveyed herfelf 
 fome time in it with much attention and com- 
 plaifance. By her geftures and various atti- 
 tudes, fhe fufficiently fhewed how much {hz 
 was fatisfied ; I do not fay with her figure, but 
 with her ornaments, which ftill made the 
 ftrongefl: impreffions on her mind. When 
 fhe had dreffed in the morning, before the 
 horde fet out to fee me, fhe had rubbed greafe 
 and tallow over her cheeks, w^hich I ordered 
 to be cleaned and wafhed ; but I could never 
 perfuade her that this affiftance of art deftroyed 
 the charms of nature, which had formed her 
 very pretty. Whatever ingenuity I employed 
 
 m 
 
Z^z TRAVELS IN 
 
 in my reafoning, and whatever might be the 
 effeft of her complacency, in reftoring to her 
 frefh cheeks that delicate bloom of youth fo 
 frail and fading, fhe v/as always attached to 
 her villainous black greafe with as much ob- 
 ftinacy as the ladies in Europe are attached 
 to their rouge, and to all their paftes, which 
 are no iefs difgufting, and perhaps much more 
 pernicious. 
 
 My young beauty having begged me to 
 give her my mirror, I complied with her re-* 
 queft ; and fhe took a wonderful advantage 
 of this favour, which I had fo readily granted, 
 to alk me for every thing that ftruck her fancy* 
 I always fuffered myfelf to be overcome ; but I 
 was at length obliged to refufe her feveral 
 articles, both on account of their being indif- 
 penfably neceffary to me, and from a fear that 
 Ihe might make a dangerous ufe of them. My 
 knee-buckles had alfo tempted her ; for the 
 ftones with which they were fet had greatly 
 attracted her eyes ; and I Ihould have been 
 very glad to have had it in my power to gra- 
 tify her once more. How much did I wifli 
 upon this occafion for the moft wretched pair 
 of fteel, to replace this article of luxury, in 
 other refpefts very ufelefs ! Unluckily thefe 
 
 were 
 
AFRICA. 363 
 
 were the only pair I had In my poITefTion : I 
 gave her to underftand that they were abfo- 
 lutely neceffary to me, and from that moment 
 Ihe never more thought of them. She had 
 the good fenfe not to be affronted at any 
 of my refufals ; it was fufficient for me to 
 fay no only once, to make her change her 
 object. 
 
 I found her name difficult to be pronounced, 
 difagreeable to the ear, and very infignificant 
 according to my ideas ; I therefore gave her 
 a new one, and called her Narina^ which, in 
 the Hottentot language, fignifies a flower. I 
 begged her to retain this pretty name, which 
 fuited her in many refpedis ; and this ihe pro- 
 mifed to do as long as fhe lived, in remem- 
 brance of my vifit to her country, and as a 
 teftimony of my love, for (he was already no 
 ftranger to this paff^on ; and in her natural and 
 affed:ing language fully (hewed how powerful 
 the firft impreffion is, and that, in the bofom of 
 the African defarts, one muft not even attempt 
 to be happy. 
 
 Having ordered a fheep to be killed, and a 
 large quantity of our hippopotamus to be dref- 
 fed to regale our guefts, they gave themfelves 
 up to all the extravagance of joy. Every body 
 
 danced ; 
 
364 TRAVELS IN 
 
 danced ; and my Hottentots, like gallant and 
 polite gentlemen, regaled thefe favages with 
 their mufic. The mofl ikiiful performers 
 founded the goura, the joumjoum, and the 
 rabouquin ; the lucky Jews harp was not for- 
 gotten ; and this new inftrument produced 
 the mofl: lively fenfations in all the company. 
 Narina, like all other pretty women, who 
 thing nothing impoflible to them, willied to 
 try it alfo ; but, like all other pretty women^ 
 who foon become impatient with their lelTon, 
 ihe difdainfully threw away the inftrument, 
 which fhe found deteftable. 
 
 The whole of this day was fpent in frolics 
 and merriment ; and my people diftributed 
 their ration of brandy, independent of that 
 which I had ordered to be given them in par-, 
 ticular. I with pleafure obferved that Narina 
 could not tafte it ; and this fobriety redoubled 
 the efteem I had entertained for her; for I 
 deteft this Hquor, and am aftonifhed that our 
 women fhould be fond of this mofl: dif^uftintr 
 of poiibns. 
 
 I ordered a quantity of wood neeelTary for 
 making our fires to be colleded early, and 
 this operation was foon performed. The 
 Gonaquas joined the party, and made ample 
 
 provifion 
 
AFRICA. 365 
 
 Di'ovlfion for themfelves, as I had permitted 
 them to remain till the next morning, and had 
 affigned them a place at fome dlftance from 
 my camp, where they might pafs the night. 
 
 In the evening when the fires were kindled, 
 I regaled my people with tea and coffee, 
 Narina feemed to like the tea, but the colour 
 of the coffee made her conceive an averfion to 
 that liquor. I put my hand upon her eyes, and 
 made her fvvallow half a cupful more of it ; but 
 fhe flill gave the preference to tea. She even 
 drank of it very often ; and this on her part was 
 a piece of fineffe which I pretended not to per- 
 ceive, and which afforded me much amufement. 
 I am perfuaded that fhe did not much relifh this 
 liquor, but ihe made hafle to fwallow it, that ihe 
 might, in the bottom of the cup, get at a piece 
 of fup-ar-candv, which flie had feen me throw 
 into it. 
 
 After this frugal repaft, and the diverting 
 fcenes- it procured rne, the dancing recom- 
 menced ; and towards midnight the need of 
 repofe put an end to our pleafures. 
 
 Having for fome time flept in my waggon 
 to avoid the night damps, I entrufled the 
 chief of the Gonaauas with the care of euard- 
 
 ing 
 
TRAVELS IN 
 
 ing my c^mp, and I lodged the old man in 
 my largeft tenti. 
 
 The reader perhaps expe<n:s to fee my fa- 
 vourite excepted from the law by which I con- 
 fined all the horde to certain boundaries, and 
 has perhaps no faith in m^y continence. Narina 
 kept clofe by me, and never thought of quitting 
 her friend. I fhewed her where her mother 
 and friends were at fome diftance from us, 
 and Narina then bid me good night. 
 
 I difpatched two of my people completely 
 armed) to pafs the night near thefe GonaquaS, 
 and to defend them from voracious animals. 
 When every one had retired to reft, I ordered 
 that no perfon after that fhould be fuffered 
 either to enter or to go out. 
 
 I could however fcarcely fieep, for every 
 thing that had happened fmce the arrival of 
 thefe favages recurred to my imagination under 
 the moft whimfical and extraordinary colours. 
 What I had learned refpedling the manners and 
 charadler of thefe people, compared with the 
 ridiculous and infipid relations of our ro- 
 mantic travellers, appeared to me fo pure, fo 
 fimple, and fo engaging ; my converfations 
 particularly with Haabas and Narina had in-* 
 terqiled me fo much, that I curfed even the 
 
 rapid 
 
AFRICA. 367 
 
 rapid moments which deprived me of thefe 
 animated fcenes, and I regretted that I could 
 not prolong their courfe. 
 
 Scarcely had the day begun to appear, when 
 I awoke, and went to vifit my Gonaquas, who 
 were all funk in profound fleep, huddled 
 together under their krofles *. Narina was with 
 her mother lying upon a mat, which I had 
 given her to fecure her from the moifture. 
 The other feven women, heaped all together, 
 formed a very pleafant group ; for neither 
 their heads nor their feet were to be feen, as 
 they were entirely hid under their covering. 
 Having faluted them by difcharging my fufee 
 at their ears, I faw a number of frightened 
 countenances ftart up from below their krofles, 
 which exhibited a moft comic fcene. Some 
 of the fleepers however did not awake, which 
 is not at all furprifing ; for the fleep of the 
 Hottentots is near akin to a lethargy. 
 
 Having left them to recover the ufe of their 
 fenfes at leifure, I went to traverfe the banks 
 
 * Cloaks made of the fkins of different animals, which 
 the Hottentots all generally ufe, eitlier to clothe them 
 during the day, or to cover them in the nig^t-time. I 
 fliall have occafion tp fpealc of them in a fuller manner 
 hereafter. 
 
 I of 
 
268 TPvAVELS IN 
 
 of the river, in order to fhoot a few birds be- 
 fore the heat fhould comraence ; for the north 
 wind, which in thefe latitudes performs the 
 fame office as the fouth in France, feemed to 
 announce a very fcorching day. At ten o'clock 
 I returned with a few birds, and among 
 others a red long-tailed fly-catcher, which I 
 confidered, and very juftly, as a happy dif- 
 covery. This charming animal, the predomi- 
 nant colour of which is indeed a moft beau-* 
 tiful red, has a ilill more beautiful tuft on its 
 head, and two very long feathers in its tail, 
 which give it an air of dignity that the fe- 
 male does not fhare with it. This advantage, 
 however, the male does not enjoy but in the 
 breeding feafon, which continues three months : 
 after that period thefe two feathers drop of 
 themfelves, and nothing then diftinguifhes the 
 male from the female but a browner tint. 
 
 We muft not confound this fpecies of bird 
 with one of the fame kind defcribed by Brif- 
 fon and Buffon, under the name of the long- 
 tailed crefted fly-catcher of the Cape of Good 
 Hope ; for this bird is not found at the Cape : 
 it belongs to India, and particularly to the 
 ifland of Ceylon, and differs much from mine. 
 The marks by which they are diflinguifhed 
 I will 
 
AFRICA. 369 
 
 will be related in my ornithology. I fhall 
 only here afmre the reader that the two fly- 
 catchers defcribed under that name, one of 
 which is red, and the other almoft white, and 
 which are given as two diftinfl; fpecies, form 
 abfolutely only one ; and this variety in the 
 colour arifes from the difference of the feafons. 
 Onemaybeeafily convinced of the truth of this, 
 by examining in my colled:ion one of thefe 
 birds, which ftill partaking of both ftates 
 clearly fhews the fucceflive paflage from white 
 to red. 
 
 That which I had killed never experienced 
 fuch a change ; and this diftindion alone 
 ought to make us not confound them, as has 
 been hitherto done, but to eftablifh 4 new 
 fpecies. 
 
 . After depofiting my capture in my tent, I 
 returned to the camp of my guefts ; but I 
 found there only men ; all the women had dif- 
 appeared : and I learned that they were gone 
 to bathe. Being curious to fee this ceremony, 
 I repaired to the river; and I was not long in 
 difcovering them, for their voices and laughter 
 foon Gonducaed nie to the fpot. Having glided 
 foftly along between the trees and bufhes, I 
 got clofe to the bank without b^ing perceived, 
 
 Vol. I. B b and 
 
370 TRAVELS IN 
 
 and found them all fwimming, fporting in the 
 water, and diving with wonderful dexterity. 
 When I had furveyed thefe female bathers at 
 my leifure, I foon put an end to their fport by 
 firing my fufee ; upon which they all plunged 
 down in the water, leaving nothing above the 
 furface but the points of their nofes, I then 
 feated myfelf on their clothes which were 
 heaped together, where I took a pleafure in 
 jeering them ; and, fhewing them their fmall 
 aprons one after the other, invited them to 
 come for them. Narina's mother laughed 
 heartily at the embarraffment of her com- 
 panions ; for ihe had quitted the water be- 
 fore the reft, and was repofing herfelf under 
 a tree, till they fhould join her. Having en- 
 treated me in vain a long time to depart, only 
 one refource was left them, which they em- 
 ployed with a fhrewdnefs that aftonifhed me. 
 Narina's mother well knowing the afcendancy 
 that her beautiful daughter had over me, threw 
 her apron and krofs to her ; the latter then 
 drefTmg herfelf in the water, foon after came 
 towards me, with the moft fimple and tender 
 air, to beg that I would retire for a few mo- 
 ments, in order that thefe women might have 
 time to put on their veftments. I at firft pre- 
 tended 
 
AFRICA. 371 
 
 tended to be a little obftinate ; but Narina, 
 taking me by the hand, dragged me along 
 with her, till, being out of fight, fhe could call 
 out to her companions that they might quit 
 the water, and drefs. 
 
 Narina becoming more and more familiar, 
 continued to walk with me towards my tent 
 fporting as freely with me as fhe would have 
 done with her brother, her parents, or her 
 companions. She joked with me after her 
 own manner, and teafed me, fometimes ftrug- 
 gling to difengage herfelf from my arms, 
 and fometimes to avoid me, jumping over 
 bufhes, ravines, and the broadeft ditches. Be- 
 ing then young and vigorous, long inured to 
 the moft fatiguing labours, and a life a thou- 
 fand times harder than that of thefe favages 
 themfelves, I could have defied an European 
 Hercules : but whether it was cuflom, or fome 
 remains of gallantry, that made me employ 
 only the half of my ftrength againft the young 
 Narina, or that in reality fhe fhewed more 
 addrefs, and was more agile in her motions, 
 fhe compelled me to defift, and I yielded under 
 her efforts ; but, above all, when fhe efcaped 
 from me, and got to a little diflance, fhe out- 
 ftripped me in the courfe, and was foon 
 
 B b 2 beyond 
 
372 TRAVELS IN 
 
 beyond my reach. With what velocity did 
 ihe run along the highways, and by a thou- 
 fand windings return to conceal herfelf at the 
 edge of a wood, and to furprife me as I 
 pafled ! 
 
 As I obferved birds of various kinds flying 
 around in the foreft, I could not help entering 
 it, as this was the only method I could find of 
 allaying the impetuofity of my young favage* 
 Nothing could equal the pleafure fhe expe- 
 rienced on feeing me fire my fufee, which I 
 did often, and I killed about a fcore of birds. 
 I had not carried any of my dogs along with 
 me ; but Narina, who fupplied their place, 
 caught in an admirable manner thofe which 
 were only wounded. By this time I had loft 
 fight of my camp, and had advanced rather 
 too far. The fporting and play of my young 
 companion at length bewildered me entirely ; 
 and fhe did not put an end to her romping 
 until fhe had given me an excellent lefTon, 
 and made the beft return poffible to the trick 
 I had played her a little' before, on the banks 
 of the river Groot-Vis. Having fallen in 
 with this river, which I knew would direft 
 me to my camp, I fired at a heron, and killed 
 it Fallen near the bank, and being carried 
 
 away 
 
AFRICA. ^y^. 
 
 away by the current, I was In danger of lofing 
 it ; and this difappointment would liave o-iven 
 me the greater uneafinefs, as one of the fame 
 fpecies, which I procured with much diffi- 
 culty, had one day, by the negligence of fome 
 of my people, been entirely fpoilt in my tent, 
 I therefore plunged into the river, which 
 reached up to my middle ; but getting en- 
 tangled in the herbs which grew on its banks, 
 and having not yet forgot the accident at 
 Queur-Boom, I was unwilling to advance 
 farther. Narina, who perceived mj embarraff- 
 ment, and the awkward fituation into which 
 I had got by running after my bird, was m.uch 
 aflonlfhed that I fhould be afraid of trufting 
 myfelf to the current. In an inftant therefore 
 flie threw herfelf into the water, and began to 
 fwim, whllft I returned to the bank ; but the 
 cruel creature who had feized my bird, held it 
 up in her hand, and, calling out to me, defired 
 me to come and fetch it. After a thouflmd 
 prayers, and the moll earneft entreaties, inftead 
 of complying with my requeft, fhe made for 
 the other bank, with the velocity of an arrow^ 
 where fhe ridiculed me at her eafe, and laughed 
 at me for my timidity. I have already faid 
 that I could not fwim 5 and if ever there w^as a 
 
 con- 
 
374 TRAVELS IN 
 
 conjun£ture In which I had occafion to com- 
 plain, this without doubt was a mortifying one, 
 and which ought to have incited me in the 
 ftrongeft manner to fupply this inexcufable de- 
 ficiency in my education. When I found that 
 I could have no influence over my pretty romp, 
 I refolved to fit down on the banks of the 
 river, and to wait for her with patience. She 
 herfelf foon grew tired of her fport ; and, 
 throwing herfelf into the river again, fwam 
 over, after ihewing her fkill, by diving feveral 
 times in her paifage. While flie was in the 
 water I more than Qnce prefented my fufee, as 
 if about to take aim at her ; but nothing that I 
 could do feemed to terrify her. On this account 
 fhe was ftill more playful and obftinate in re* 
 fufing me my heron. We both however at 
 length purfued our route very peaceably 
 together, and returned towards my tent. 
 
 The reft of the Gonaqua women, whom we 
 had left lower down on the banks of the river, 
 having rejoined us, I could plainly read fome 
 remains of fhame in their countenances and 
 looks. I myfelf ought indeed to have blufhed, 
 for wounding their delicacy in fo cruel a man- 
 ner. Ori.this occafron I had (tta natural mo-- 
 defty, which is very different from that referve 
 c^ which 
 
AFRICA. 375> 
 
 which women often ailume through pride, and 
 which is only an enticing ftratagem, more 
 dangerous than fcandal reduced to the com- 
 pleteft embarraffment. 
 
 After I had made my favages dine, I or- 
 dered the table to be brought upon which I 
 difTedled animals, and which I em.ployed only 
 for that purpofe. This, with two chairs, formed 
 all the furniture of my tent. I then began to 
 flay the birds I had killed in the morning. This 
 operation furprifed them much ; they looked 
 at me with aftonifliment, and could not con- 
 ceive why I had deprived birds of their lives 
 in order to flrip them, and immediately after 
 to reftore them to their former figure. I did 
 not however w^afte my time in boafting to 
 them of the cabinets and colledions of Eu- 
 rope, or in telling them how much they were 
 efteemed. They undoubtedly might have 
 wondered that I jQiould have come fo far with 
 no other defign than that of procuring ani- 
 mals : and the queftion of Narina, who afked 
 me if there were no birds in my own country, 
 appeared to me extremely fimple and natural. 
 I thought that no diflertation on this fubjeft 
 with favages, who would not have compre- 
 hended what I faid, was equal to the pleafure 
 
 of 
 
37i5 TRAVELS IN 
 
 ^f preparing a kmgVfiflier, which I gave to 
 my Inquifitive beauty.. 
 
 Haabas prevailed upon me to move my 
 camp, in order that I might ere£l it nearer his 
 horde, where he told me I fhould find a great 
 variety of birds of every kind. Having given 
 me to underftand that we were only about two 
 leagues diftant form It, I promiied that I would 
 go thither in the courfe of a few days. 
 
 As he was preparing to depart, I regaled 
 him and ajl bis people with a dinner, and 
 gave him a fmall provifion of tobacco for him- 
 felf, which afforded him much pleafure. Na- 
 rina promifcd to bring me milk, and to return 
 in a fhort time with her fifter. At length, 
 iilghly fatisfied v/ith each other, after a thou-r 
 fand farewels, thefe good people left me, ac^ 
 companied by fome of my Hottentots, whom 
 I had commiffioned to reconnoitre the way, 
 and to procure me a few fheep by barter. 
 
 END OF THE FIRST VOLUME,