BV 
 3540 
 . A44 
 1882 
 
 Pioneer Work, i 88 1 . 
 
 BOSTON: 
 
 American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, 
 1882. 
 
 
OFPfi^ 
 
 NOV 10 1955 
 SoeiCALSO^' 
 
 BV 3540 . A44 1882 
 American Board of 
 Commissioners for Foreign 
 The mission of the American, 
 _±_o Iafe_s± C^P-tX^JL— — I 
 
 

W.R.FfSH PHOTO 'EN6. BOSTON. 
 
Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 in 2015 
 
 https://archive.org/details/missionofamericaOOamer 
 
THE 
 
 A 
 
 — TO — 
 
 West Central Africa. 
 
 Pioneer Work, i 88 i . 
 
 / BOSTON: 
 
 American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, 
 1882. 
 
BEACON PRESS : 
 THOMAS TODD, PRINTER, 
 I SOMERSET STREET, 
 
 BOSTON. 
 
THE WEST CENTRAL AFRICAN MISSION. 
 
 At the annual meeting of the American Board in October, 
 1879, the Prudential Committee was directed to open a mission, 
 if practicable, in West Central Africa. The region selected was 
 that of “ Bihe and the Coanza, an elevated plateau, or rolling 
 country, some two hundred and fifty miles inland from the 
 Atlantic Ocean at Benguela, in about 12 0 south latitude.” 
 
 At the annual meeting in October, 1880, the Committee 
 reported the arrangements in progress. Rev. Walter W. 
 Bagster, Rev. William H. Sanders, and Mr. Samuel T. Miller, 
 whose offers of service had been accepted, sailed from Lisbon 
 on the 5th of October, the day of the annual meeting. After a 
 pleasant voyage of thirty-nine days, touching at the Cape de 
 Verde and other islands, they landed safely November 10, in 
 St. Philip, the port of Benguela. 
 
 This town, called also in common speech simply Benguela , 
 contains about two hundred whites and four hundred blacks ; 
 has a fort, custom-house, and governor’s residence, a bank, and 
 a few store-houses. In slave-trading days it was one of the 
 principal shipping ports of Angola. Thousands of slaves, 
 chiefly brought in by the natives of Bihe, were sent off to Brazil 
 and Cuba. The last shipments were within ten or twelve years. 
 “ I saw a thousand slaves in one caravan,” says Monteiro, who 
 was there in 1870. Now business has largely gone from Ben- 
 guela to Catumbella, which is ten or twelve miles distant, and 
 on the road to Bihe. The caravans from the interior stop at 
 Catumbella. 
 
 The first thing to be arranged at Benguela was for the trans- 
 
4 
 
 WEST CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 portation inland. The Catumbella River is not navigable. 
 There are no beasts of burden and no roads on which they can 
 travel. Merchandise is carried by porters. Travelers either 
 walk or are carried in the tepoia, which is a kind of palanquin, 
 or cot, suspended from a pole which is borne by porters. Six 
 porters are the complement for a tepoia ; two carry it a few 
 moments, and without stopping transfer it to two others, and so 
 onward. By sending two hundred miles down the coast to 
 Mossamedes, a riding ox was procured, which proved service- 
 able. 
 
 Our missionaries were treated very civilly by the Portuguese 
 authorities, and received many favors from merchants. But all 
 the facilities given them could not overcome the difficulties of 
 transportation without long and tedious delay, vexation, and 
 expense. In 1877, the Portuguese government sent a scientific 
 expedition to Bihe, comprising three army and navy officers. 
 After they reached Benguela, with all the resources of the 
 government at their disposal nearly three months were spent 
 in procuring porters ; and then it was more than six months 
 after leaving the coast when they reached Bih£. Mr. Bagster 
 and his associates fared better than Serpa Pinto and the other 
 members of this Portuguese expedition. Though several times 
 closing a bargain for guides and porters only to find it thrown 
 up and everything to be done over again, and being once com- 
 pelled, after fairly starting, to return when a few miles out, on 
 the discovery of what seemed treachery in the porters, they at 
 last got away from Benguela March 9, 1881. Having stopped 
 at several places, on March 28 they reached Bailunda, where 
 they are forming a station of the mission. Bailunda is but a 
 short distance from Bihe. 
 
 This enforced delay has not been lost time, but rather directly 
 helpful to the missionary work. They have made a wise dis- 
 tribution of Portuguese Bibles and New Testaments, which have 
 been received in a way that gives promise of a future harvest. 
 They have occupied themselves in learning the language. The 
 
STUDYING THE LANGUAGE. 
 
 5 
 
 same dialect, the Ambunda, is spoken with slight variations by 
 negroes on the coast and in the interior. Messrs. Sanders and 
 Miller made such progress in their studies, that when they 
 reached Bailunda they could understand conversations fairly. 
 This knowledge they already find of essential advantage, as it 
 enables them to know what the people say in their talks one 
 with another about the missionaries, and it affords a check upon 
 their guides and interpreters who, not infrequently, as they dis- 
 covered, represented the strangers as saying, not what they 
 meant, but what their guides thought they ought to mean. 
 
 What is more important, by this delay the people have become 
 accustomed to the presence of the missionaries, an essential 
 thing in dealing with Africans ; they are learning to trust them, 
 and to believe that they are what they claim to be, and are not 
 secretly aiming to monopolize the trade of the country, and 
 especially that they are not the advance guard of an American 
 colony with designs of ultimate annexation of the country. 
 From this last notion it has been hard to dislodge some of the 
 men of intelligence. “ England always sends missionaries to 
 make way for colonists,” it was said ; “ and England and 
 America are for all practical purposes one.” 
 
 The actual traveling time to Bailunda was about twenty 
 days. Mr. Bagster rode the ox, Mr. Sanders and Mr. Miller 
 started in tepoias, but walked much of the way. There were 
 seven donkeys, and about sixty men carrying packages of sixty 
 pounds each. Camp followers included, there were ninety-five 
 persons in the company. The road, for a short distance skirt- 
 ing the shallow Catumbella River, soon began to climb moun- 
 tains and wind through wild gorges. Numerous rivulets were 
 crossed. As they advanced, the scenery became grand. “ Majes- 
 tic canons opened between towering summits, gulches were filled 
 with masses of wild vegetation, the trees struggled to lift their 
 heads above the climbing plants.” “ On either side the views 
 called for constant admiration. The grandeur of the rocky 
 heights gave a feeling of littleness to the beholder.” As they 
 
6 
 
 WEST CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 reached the broken country of the elevated table-land, “ the veg- 
 etation, instead of that of the tropics, appeared much like that 
 of New England, and the scenery was such as would excite no 
 surprise in the latitude of Boston.” No perilous adventures 
 were encountered, but the journey was a severer strain upon 
 their patience and powers of endurance than they anticipated. 
 Mr. Bagster gained relief from his fever, while Mr. Sanders and 
 Mr. Miller had slight attacks, for which “ quinine proved a sov- 
 ereign remedy.” 
 
 Bailunda is an important region. It is elevated and popu- 
 lous. The king, Kwikwi, has given a cordial reception to our 
 brethren, and seems anxious to have them become permanent 
 “children” of his. As this place lies on the direct road to 
 Bihd, and is a few miles nearer the coast, a station there will be 
 essential, and will be a hopeful opening for work beyond. 
 
 It is possible that a better road to the ocean may be found 
 than the direct one from Bailunda down the mountains by way 
 of Kassange and Catumbella to Benguela. Loanda, the capital 
 of the whole Portuguese province, lies two hundred miles north 
 of Benguela, and is the largest city on the West Coast south of 
 Gibraltar. It would be much the best base of supplies. From 
 Loanda there is transportation in steamers up the Coanza River 
 sixty miles inland. From the falls on the Coanza it is thought 
 a road less rugged and mountainous may be found to Bailunda 
 and Bihd. Our missionaries propose to make explorations to 
 ascertain about this. Even though the distance is greater, if the 
 road proves easier, this, with the other advantages of St. Paul 
 de Loanda — or simply Loanda, as it is usually called — would 
 make that city most desirable for our seaport. 
 
 During the month of July, Messrs. Sanders and Miller were 
 quietly settled down in comfortable quarters in Bailunda, 
 acquainting themselves with the people and the people with 
 themselves. Mr. Bagster returned to Benguela to hasten for- 
 ward cloths needed for presents and for purchases, as the stock 
 they took in at first would not long suffice. On his downward 
 
ARRIVAL ON THE COAST. 
 
 7 
 
 trip he obtained photographic views and made important exam- 
 inations of routes and modes of- transport for the future. 
 
 When he had rejoined his associates in Bailunda, it was deter- 
 mined to go on to Bihe and inspect that country before deciding 
 where to make the first permanent station of the mission. The 
 “ Ambassador ” of Kwikwi took them in charge for the journey 
 to Bihd. Just as they reached the border he declared that they 
 must wait to learn the king’s pleasure before going further, and 
 intimated that they would be in danger unless they first heard 
 again from the king. Finding that if they went forward it would 
 be against the remonstances of the guides, and unwilling to give 
 occasion to any complaint of violating African etiquette, although 
 they had no fear how they would be received by the king of 
 Bihe, they thought best to return for the present to their old 
 quarters in Bailunda. 
 
 Meanwhile Mr. and Mrs. Frederick A. Walter, who left 
 Bridgeport, Connecticut, April 7, 1881, and Lisbon July 5, 
 landed in Benguela September 5, where they were welcomed by 
 Mr. Bagster. Dr. Francis O. Nichols and Mrs. Nichols, who left 
 Haverhill, Massachusetts, August 5, and Lisbon September 7, 
 joined them in Benguela, October 6 ; and November 12 the new 
 comers left the coast for Bailunda under escort of Mr. Bagster. 
 
 As our friends are missionary explorers, there is not only 
 special interest in the accounts they give of their movements, 
 and in their pictures of the land and people, but these particu- 
 lars need to be put on record for the wise conduct of missionary 
 operations hereafter. We present copious extracts from their 
 letters as the first contribution to the history of this Christian 
 undertaking. 
 
 SAFE ARRIVAL ON THE COAST. 
 
 From St. Paul de Loanda — called simply Loanda, as St. 
 Philip de Benguela is called generally Benguela — Mr. Bagster 
 wrote November 9, 1880 : 
 
8 
 
 WEST CENTRAL AERICA. 
 
 “ My pen longs to fill all this sheet with songs of praise, and 
 then I should scarce have begun to render unto the Lord the 
 honor due unto him. He doeth all things well, and so we have 
 been learning during the past days. 
 
 “When the American Consul, Mr. Newton, of the firm of 
 Newton, Carnegie & Co., owning the line of Coanza steamers, 
 and others, came on board, we received the most kind and thor- 
 oughly liberal welcome, and subsequently on shore more than 
 courtesy was extended to us — every possible attention was shown 
 us and service rendered. During our voyage we have been 
 wondering why we could get no Kroo boys ; .the most careful 
 inquiries at every port showed none to be had ; but th;s now is 
 all made plain. It was not the right way , for I find they would 
 have been to us a source of unmitigated trouble and constant 
 liability to broils with the natives, as we passed through the 
 country. Indeed the fact is, as the oldest and most reliable 
 men in Loanda tell me, the Kroos will not do to take inland ; 
 the first village we pass we should have to fight, or have ‘ a 
 woman palaver.’ 
 
 “ Another cause for praise is the kindness toward us of the 
 Portuguese officials, although I cannot say that in Loanda we 
 have received any direct help from them. Mr. Newton afforded 
 us much assistance, not only giving us information concerning 
 the country, but also spending much time and thought in 
 obtaining two Cabindas as servants, in getting letters to the 
 people in Benguela, and in writing to friends of his own there. 
 
 “ First, as to the healthfulness of this place, and the present 
 outlook. When in Loanda we heard that Benguela was a fear- 
 fully unhealthy place ; the worst on the coast. We did not on 
 landing see cause to believe this account, and not until the 
 matter was explained by the governor here did I take in the 
 whole truth. It seems that during the dry season, as at present, 
 it is quite healthy, but that during the wet season the place is 
 almost a marsh, and very unhealthy. The governor strongly 
 advised our going down to Mossamedes on the next steamer, 
 
THE OUTLOOK \ 
 
 9 
 
 and there staying until the middle of April, starting inland the 
 early days of May. But I have not yet given up the idea of 
 reaching Bihe by the end of next January (at latest), although I 
 am told that this cannot be done, because we must send to Bihe 
 for porters, and this it will take three months to do. What will 
 be the developments of the next few days I do not know, but 
 now think of going to the town of Catumbella next week, to see 
 the Biheans who come down there, and to see the donkeys. 
 They are very fine little animals, and much larger and better 
 than the St. Iago donkeys. Catumbella is twelve miles north- 
 east of this place, and all the business has gone thereon account 
 of its being the place where the road comes in, and thus it has 
 cut off all the trade from Benguela. The character it bears is, 
 however, far worse both as regards cleanliness and healthful- 
 ness. Yesterday we succeeded in renting a house for a month, 
 and hope today to go into possession. There are two rooms 
 and a store, and a kitchen behind, a large yard, and two long 
 sheds for donkeys, etc. There are no glass windows, the floors 
 are rough flag-stone, and the whole dirty and full of fleas, but 
 we are clearing up and hope to make it answer our purpose. 
 We must have a place to ourselves, and that large enough to 
 pack and repack in, and to admit of loads for men and donkeys 
 being made up. 
 
 “There is no reason, so far as known, why we should not 
 take donkeys into Bihe successfully. We can obtain all we need 
 from Mr. Marques (Portuguese), the gentleman who has so 
 kindly treated us to his hospitality while here. The donkeys 
 are at Catumbella and hence I have to go there. The Biheans 
 come down to Catumbella and do not come on twelve miles 
 farther to Benguela. 
 
 THE OUTLOOK. 
 
 “ I find that there is really no authority of the Portuguese in 
 Bihe, and only a nominal sway exercised a few miles from the 
 coast. However, the governor of Benguela is going to give us 
 
IO 
 
 WEST CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 a note to the king of Bihe. It may do good, and certainly no 
 harm. I find that there is no question but we can have all the 
 communication with the coast that we expected, namely, once a 
 month. It is said that three caravans from Bihe are now 
 expected in Catumbella, and that these will be on the coast by 
 the middle of next month ; this will favor our getting all the 
 porters we need. I intend to leave word in Catumbella of my 
 wish to hire carriage into Bihe, that I may have the competition 
 of these three caravans to work for economy in freight and good 
 pick of men. I hear that three days’ march from here the 
 country changes and the most delightful scenery is encountered. 
 I hear that there are miles of country between here and Bihe 
 shaded by the trees and hanging creepers ; such accounts come 
 to my ears that I must see to believe them. I hear also that 
 the Bihdans are a fine people, strong and lusty. 
 
 “ I am told that there is ‘ no quinine wanted there.’ I hear 
 that the climate is most agreeable, that the cold at times is 
 sufficient to form ice or an occasional hail-storm. Should this 
 be true there is no reason why the whole work should not pros- 
 per in a wonderful way, for such a climate will admit of continued 
 work by the missionary and the development of some sterling 
 qualities in the people. It admits of living, and not existing 
 only. 
 
 “ The possibility of moving into Bih^ at once on arrival of 
 next steamer, seems to be very promising, although dependent 
 on information yet to be obtained from the caravans. But this 
 is sure : Benguela is no place to stay in if it can be avoided 
 during the rainy season, and therefore, and for other reasons, 
 all the efforts that are possible, all the work and endeavor that 
 can be brought to bear, all the purpose and will that we can 
 give to it will be concentrated upon reaching Bihe before the 
 heavy spring rains. 
 
 “ Of health I have only one thing to report ; all embraced in 
 one word- — good. We are working away at Portuguese. Mr. 
 
 Sanders does well, Mr. Miller something, and I myself scarcely 
 
BENGUELA . 
 
 I 
 
 have found time for a beginning. Ask those who love our work 
 to keep on praying, specially that we may have very much hum- 
 bleness of heart, so that God may continually bless us, even as 
 in the past. Send us strong reenforcements to reach Benguela, 
 May i, 1 88 1. Don’t fail to say to the churches, Africa must 
 have men, for the gospel must be preached to her people.” 
 
 BENGUELA. 
 
 Benguela, the seaport of Bihe, is described by Mr. Sanders 
 in his letter of November 19, 1880: 
 
 “ There are about two hundred whites here and a few hundred 
 blacks. There are scarcely any white women in these West 
 African cities. Generally each white household consists of the 
 members of the business firm, with whom the clerks board and 
 lodge, and the black servants, who are many. This state of 
 society gives rise to much immorality, drinking, and smoking. 
 Our stand, of not taking wines or tobacco, has excited constant 
 notice and comment. English and Portuguese unite in saying 
 that we ought to take wine to escape fever. (Mr. Newton and 
 Mr. Seruiya are exceptions. The latter says out and out that it 
 is not so. The former said to Mr. Bagster that most of the 
 deaths among the English on the coast are due to intemperance.) 
 We quietly began to inquire, and found scarcely one that has 
 not had the fever. So we do not see why, if the fever is sure to 
 come anyhow, we should sacrifice our stand on the temperance 
 question. We are in good health and spirits, take all reasonable 
 precautions against sickness, do not propose to worry about the 
 fever beforehand, and expect that by living as we ought, keeping 
 clean, etc., we shall continue in good health. 
 
 “ It is very pleasant to be by ourselves in a house that for the 
 present we can call our own. It has three rooms and an entry. 
 The room at the corner of the house used to be the store. We have 
 some heavy boxes in there, and keep it locked up most of the 
 time. Then comes the hall. Next to that is our dining-room. 
 
12 
 
 WEST CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 When more goods are brought we shall probably partition this 
 by a curtain and make a bed-room, also, for two.. The third 
 room has two windows, as well as the one next to it, but no out- 
 side door. Here are most of our things now, here we sleep, 
 here we write and shall work mostly for the present. The floor 
 of this room is paved with stones ; and a sidewalk in Boston as 
 rough as this floor would call out newspaper denunciation. The 
 walls are about thirteen or fourteen ^eet high, whitewashed and 
 decorated with various articles, among which are our heavy, 
 brown-tanned, leather boots and shoes. So many mice frolic 
 about the floor that we dare not leave the leather articles within 
 their reach. These boots and shoes look quite formidable, and 
 it is no wonder that the dogs are respectful when we wear them. 
 This morning as I was preventing a dog from escaping from his 
 quarters, he tried to bite. Getting hold of one of these shoes, 
 he could only make a scratch on it, and since then he has been 
 very humble. 
 
 “ We find that the sea-breeze commences early, or about the 
 middle of the forenoon. Blowing into our front windows and 
 out of the back door, it keeps the house as cool and pleasant 
 as can be desired, even at the hottest part of the day. This 
 breeze, the open windows (they have no glass or sashes) and 
 doors, and the tile roof, keep us as well ventilated as though we 
 were out of doors. 
 
 “ A knowledge of Portuguese will be indispensable, as we can 
 get plenty of men who understand that language and the Bihean, 
 but cannot get those who understand Bihean and English. 
 Hence, I propose to give a little more time to study here than 
 I meant to do. I find this an excellent place to practice also. 
 Every one takes it for granted that I understand more than I 
 do ; so, if I ask a question they talk on as if to a born Portu- 
 guese. I find, too, that they have so much leisure that they are 
 more than willing to chat awhile for the fun of hearing my 
 blunders. That is all I care to know. If they do not feel that 
 it is a nuisance to have to talk with me, I am willing to give 
 them the fun for the benefit. 
 
LANGUAGE AND CUSTOMS. 
 
 3 
 
 “ Nov. 20. I have to finish now this letter that I commenced 
 yesterday. During the night it began to rain, and still it rains. 
 Consequently it is quite close this morning and we await the 
 sea-breeze, if it is to come. 
 
 “This morning Mr. Miller found in his feet two jiggers, 1 or 
 rather those little black deposits that hatch into jiggers No 
 harm ensues if they are taken out promptly. The blacks here 
 are most miserable in their appearance. It is scarcely possible 
 to see fifty of them without observing many toes either entirely 
 or partly gone, legs much swollen, etc. ; all due to the neglect of 
 extracting the eggs that hatch into jiggers. 
 
 “ We find here plenty of donkeys of large size and fine appear- 
 ance ; better in fact than those of Lisbon. Mr. Bagster intends 
 shortly to see what can be bought and at what price. The 
 Lord’s hand it was that kept us from getting donkeys before, 
 and Kroo boys The former would have been much inferior to 
 these, and probably more expensive, though we do not yet know 
 what these will cost. The Kroo boys would have involved us 
 in a “ woman palaver ” at the very first village, and have been a 
 constant source of difficulty with the natives. 
 
 LANGUAGE AND CUSTOMS IN BENGUELA. 
 
 “The language spoken by the natives here is said to be 
 exactly like that of Bihe. Whether just the same or closely 
 related only, remains to be seen. Our boys, who are Cabindas, 
 cannot understand this language, though we brought them here 
 from so short a distance as Loanda. Their communication, 
 except with other Cabindas, has to be in Portuguese. We try, 
 through their knowledge of this language, to bring the truth to 
 them. I read a chapter, or part of one, to them each morning 
 after breakfast, and after that the Lord’s Prayer. How much 
 they understand I have not been able to find out. None of us 
 know sufficient Portuguese to sound their knowledge of it. 
 They have proved quite satisfactory as servants, thus far. 
 
 Chigoe, the pulex penetrans. 
 
14 
 
 WEST CENTRAL AFRICA . 
 
 “ If the language here is the same as in Bihe it will be possi- 
 ble for us, as we occasionally have need to come to the coast on 
 business, to convert the journey into a preaching tour. 
 
 “We find that the devil is not sleeping here. A firm in 
 Catumbella makes aguardente (brandy or fire-water), and will in 
 a short time have about seven hundred barrels of the poison 
 ready for sale. The steamer on which we came brought appa- 
 ratus to establish a manufactory of aguardente. This means 
 increased bondage to Satan on the part of these blacks. Cer- 
 tainly the greed of money must be strong to cause men to put 
 these poor people lower than they are. 
 
 “ The attention of these people is given wholly to trifles. 
 This strikes us forcibly because in civilized lands business 
 is carried on upon a scale that makes this seem like child’s 
 play. The natives from the interior in most cases walk about 
 the streets doing nothing, or indolently sit in and about the 
 shops, and long for the liquor they are too lazy to earn. Some 
 women bring a few eggs, potatoes, tomatoes, bananas, peanuts, 
 or a few quarts of meal to market, and sit there most of the day. 
 Thus most whom we see spend their days. They think only of 
 the present, and their present is a very small affair. Oh, how 
 they need the gospel to enlarge and bless them ! 
 
 “ I do not see how the natives get much time to sleep. Each 
 evening we hear them dancing and singing. They dance to the 
 beating of a drum, I think. The sound is such that I judge the 
 drum has a wooden head. It has a half muffled sound, lacking 
 resonance. But the voices fully supply any deficiency in the 
 noise. Usually they keep it up till at least one o’clock. This 
 morning it continued till daylight, and ended with what seemed, 
 by the sounds, to be rockets. 
 
 ANTS AND SCORPIONS. 
 
 “ Dec. 16. We find ourselves annoyed by the tropical pests. 
 One day Mr. Bagster was moving some things, and discovered 
 white ants under a box. A thorough search showed them at 
 
DISTRIBUTING NEW TEST/1 ME NTS. 
 
 5 
 
 work under several boxes. Fortunately most of our things are 
 encased in tin. We put such as might be injured in places of 
 safety, such as on tarred canvas or upon blocks. Though the 
 articles are safe, we wish to preserve the boxes also, as most of 
 them are small and will be useful when we make the loads for 
 transportation inland. 
 
 “ We have been visited each day also by a regiment of black 
 ants. They would come in good order, get the desired things, 
 and leave peaceably if let alone. One day they were dosed with 
 dilute ammonia, but received no harm. At last one of the boys 
 destroyed them with a shovelful of coals. We discovered a scor- 
 pion and a centipede under some of our boxes, but they are rare 
 here and still are curiosities. 
 
 “ I saw the other day a white-headed old negro. He is the 
 only old man that I have seen among the negroes. I remember 
 that Mr. Monteiro says that but few of them reach old age, since, 
 being poorly clad, they are carried off by consumption. They 
 say here that most die of intemperance. A negro will drink a 
 tumbler of aguardente, which is very fiery, while white men 
 usually seem to limit themselves to about two or three table- 
 spoonsful. 
 
 “ Mr. Bagster has sent to Mossamedes for two riding oxen. 
 I thought that if I should ride on one for some hours in the 
 glare of the sun, facing it, since we shall go east, I should be 
 good for nothing during the remainder of the day. So he did 
 not order one for my use. 
 
 “ My eyes have improved much since being here. Today, 
 for the first time, I had to wear dark glasses when out of doors 
 about noon, and this only because I used my eyes too much 
 last night when writing.” 
 
 DISTRIBUTING NEW TESTAMENTS. 
 
 “Dec. ij. Though I closed my letter yesterday, I must 
 write of an incident that just occurred. Last month we recorded 
 the fact that daily we read a chapter in the New Testament, and 
 
1 6 
 
 WEST CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 the Lord’s Prayer, in the Portuguese, for the sake of one or two 
 Cabindas To each of them we gave a New Testament. These 
 boys are frequently visited by some Cabinda friends. These 
 callers pass back and forth through one of the rooms many times 
 each day. We asked them as they did so if they could read. 
 Some knew how, and were asked if they would like a book. 
 They in all cases accepted one. We hope that, if for no other 
 reason, they will read them for the sake of learning to read 
 better. Thus the truth will be brought to them. One of our 
 boys can read well ; the other seems to be learning. These 
 Cabindas who have contact with Europeans seem to have at 
 least some faint conception of the value of knowing how to read 
 and write. 
 
 “ The incident that pleased us so this morning is the follow- 
 ing : An old man came and asked for a Testament. He was in 
 our neighborhood overseeing a gang of street cleaners. We 
 suppose that some of the few books distributed must have been 
 seen by him, for we had not spoken with him. We gave him a 
 Bible and a Testament. He seemed very much pleased to 
 receive them and asked what he should pay. We did not take 
 any pay, though now I think we should have taken a small 
 price. He expressed himself as “ Sempre obrigado ” (ever 
 obliged), and said he would take much delight in reading them. 
 The offer of pay pleased us, as it showed him to be no agent of 
 the priest. 
 
 “ In St. Vincent, Cape de Verde Islands, we were told that 
 the priest gave a worshiper who brought him a Bible, an 
 especial blessing. Hence the application for Bibles, when 
 freely distributed, was as brisk as could be desired. There they 
 questioned the wisdom of giving freely in places where the 
 priests exercise much control. We trust that the Word sent 
 forth here, though it must be without much explanation, and 
 among those who have not a large vocabulary of Portuguese 
 words, will bear fruit unto eternal life. 
 
 “This morning a man came and wished to be hired as 
 
REGARDED AS TRADERS. 
 
 17 
 
 guide. He lives in Bihe, and he expressed a hope that when 
 in Bihe we would trade with him only. I explained that we 
 are not going for trade. He persisted, saying that he deals in 
 wax, gum, ivory, slaves, etc. I told him again that our purpose 
 is to teach the people. He laughed in an incredulous manner, 
 but tried no more to secure us as customers. He said that the 
 country is well wooded and populous ; a very fine place to live 
 in, he thinks. 
 
 “ His incredulity when we say that we are missionaries and 
 have not come for trade, is very much like the Portuguese. 
 They are accustomed to see a priest sent here with nothing. 
 
 The little money for a third-class passage on the steamer is 
 almost considered a waste ; for when here he is said to set a 
 very bad example by keeping two or three concubines. Hence 
 they think religion a very poor article, and not worth a great 
 outlay of money. Consequently they do not understand how 
 people in America can be willing to send us with such an outfit 
 on a religious mission. They are inclined to believe that we 
 are on some political or commercial errand, and are trying to 
 outwit them. 
 
 “ Some days ago the governor of this place called upon us. 
 
 He seemed to be pleased with the sight of some of our things. He 
 advised us again to go to Mossamedes and stay there until May. 
 Though admitting that we can get to Bihe in January, he said 
 we should not be well prepared for the rains. However feasible 
 his plan seems to him, it is out of the question for us. It would 
 be better to stay here, if necessary, and risk the fever than to 
 go to Mossamedes, now that so many of our things are out of 
 the custom-house. But there seems to be no good reason why 
 we should not go in next month. The highest estimate of the 
 time needed to get to Bihe is fifteen days ; some say twelve. 
 
 “ One night I was taken ill, and was not well enough to be up 
 next day. They call it * the fever,’ but if so the fever is not 
 very serious. I did not really believe it was that, but today one 
 of the boys is in the same condition, and_£sked for quinine for 
 
 / X' 
 
 (theological seminary. 
 
i8 
 
 WEST CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 the fever. We are told that the recovery is much more rapid 
 here than in Europe. Mr. Seruiya said that at Gibraltar he 
 regained his strength after about a month ; here, in two or three 
 days all effects of the fever pass away.” 
 
 PREPARATIONS FOR THE INWARD MARCH. 
 
 Mr. Bagster, in a letter of December 4-15, 1880, says : 
 
 “ Brother Sanders is now well ; has only had one slight attack 
 of fever, or something of the sort. Brother Miller is well and, 
 with very slight exception, has been so. I am without exception 
 well. Our household contains two Cabinda boys ; they do 
 fairly, so far, but have had an easy time. There has been 
 added to our outfit since last I wrote, four donkeys. They are 
 doing well, but are not yet accustomed to loads, and have to be 
 proved. Our present occupation is preparing for a start ; but 
 as there is much to be done and intelligent help is not to be 
 had, the work falls upon Mr. Sanders and myself, and as the 
 number of things needing attention is very great, the result is 
 that, notwithstanding early and late work, but little progress can 
 be made. 
 
 “ Eight days since I went to the little town of Catumbella, 
 about twelve miles from here, for the purpose of purchasing 
 donkeys and of learning what could be learnt about the journey 
 into Bihe. Catumbella is the growth resulting from the fact 
 that one of the Benguela merchants, some years since, thinking 
 to stop the caravans coming from the interior before they 
 reached Benguela, established a branch store there and drew 
 after him all the trade and all the merchants to do the trade. 
 It was a bad move. Now the trade that used to come to 
 Benguela is stopped in Catumbella, and the great numbers of 
 natives who come from the interior remain at this place, never 
 even reaching Benguela. To this place I went and bought four 
 donkeys for $180. 
 
 “ We have now much more true knowledge of Bihe than 
 
THE ROAD INLAND. 
 
 9 
 
 before ; for I saw hundreds of Biheans at Catumbella, and 
 heard very much about them and their ways. 
 
 “ I learned that when we landed in Benguela letters were 
 written to Catumbella to tell of our arrival, and to say that, as 
 it was against the interests of trade to allow us to reach Bihe, 
 nothing would be easier than to let some of those tribes on the 
 road know, in order to put us out of the way ; or as others had 
 it, not let us pass. All that I replied to these things was this : 
 We have safely reached Benguela. We are not stopped yet, 
 and we purpose to go on into Bihe. There was a much quieter 
 tone manifested when these ideas were advanced. 
 
 “ From some persons in Catumbella I received thorough 
 kindness. A Mr. Mark de A. Seruiya showed me most kind 
 attention. Mr. Seruiya is an English subject, born at Gibraltar. 
 Mr. Bensande also showed me most 'hearty kindness. He is an 
 Englishman, and head of a firm doing business in Catumbella. 
 He sent for a man named Barros, a Bihean, who went in with 
 De Serpa Pinto. We had a long talk with him, and not .only 
 learned much about ways and customs and needs, but also have 
 hopes of being able to hire Barros for the journey, and perhaps 
 longer. He appears to be a most valuable man. He knows all 
 the road, all the people, is a fine specimen of humanity, and 
 thoroughly well-recommended. 
 
 “ I will now run through briefly the substance of information 
 gathered about the trip. From Benguela to Bihe takes twelve 
 days’ travel ; that is, about fifteen on the road. There are five 
 rivers to cross, but they are all passable except about the month 
 of March, when they are too high and turbulent. Usually they 
 are only such as the porters can wade through, although all are 
 now supplied with boats to put over passengers. I also found 
 that the month of January is good to move inland, because of 
 the new supply of corn and other crops then coming into market, 
 while now there is a scarcity. The best time, however, in all 
 the year to make the journey is May. It might be possible to 
 get carriers here (at Catumbella), but the safest way is to send 
 
20 
 
 WEST CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 to the king of Bailunda for him to send down carriers who will 
 take all loads into Bihe. The Bailunda men will go into Bihe 
 for extra pay, and will thus save great trouble on the way. . 
 
 “ It will take twenty days to get carriers from Bailunda. 
 There is no object that I can see to be gained in staying here. 
 There is a bad rainy season to meet between now and May, 
 expenses of living, and loss of time. Of course I do not mean 
 that we could not be well employed in the study of the language, 
 etc., but then this can be done better in Bihe. The same lan- 
 guage is spoken here as in Bihd, namely, Ambunda. There is 
 much difficulty in getting intelligent answers to questions here 
 because they know so much Portuguese and have mixed it up so 
 thoroughly with their own tongue. 
 
 “ There are three sobas (chiefs or kings) through whose lands 
 we have to pass on the road to Bihd, and to whom a present 
 will have to be paid. I am assured by some that we cannot go 
 into Bihe without making presents of rum. But when told that 
 we. cannot do this, but that nevertheless we are going to Bihe, 
 then they say, “ Well, then, you will have to pay double in other 
 things. ,, Money is useless when we leave Catumbella ; then, 
 cloth and beads and such things are the articles of barter. 
 
 “ I am also told that the customs of the people are very 
 strange in some regards; that they are very quick to take 
 offence, and that their mode of doing is to fine the one who 
 displeases them, and that they do so in royal style. Sometimes 
 all that a man or party has is confiscated at one sweep, for some 
 petty breach of etiquette, and that when there is no intention of 
 giving offence. 
 
 “ Then there is another thing. I am told that unless the king 
 of Bihe takes a liking to us he will not allow us to stay in his 
 country at any price. We, however, confidently expect not only 
 to go into Bihe, but to stay there and to possess the land in the 
 name of our God. 
 
 “ I did not say, I believe, that we can take donkeys in without 
 any great difficulty. I expect to take those we now have, four, 
 
ANTS— MISSIONARIES, NOT COLONISTS. 
 
 2 
 
 and perhaps some more. Our pack-saddles are out and fitted and 
 work well. Our intention is to take in as little of the stores as 
 possible. I am assured that there is no danger of white ants in 
 the custom-house, and there certainly is not at present any indi- 
 cation of their being there, but in this house nothing is safe. 
 We have to look at boxes, etc., every two or three days. When 
 there is any danger of these little pests, the only safety for goods 
 is tin-lined cases, and the only way to make quite sure of bales 
 is to have them packed in tarred canvas — and this most care- 
 fully. I had these things done in England, but I did not think 
 that the ants would hurt beads , and these are only in wooden 
 boxes and will no doubt suffer, as the ants eat out all the 
 threads, and leave the beads loose and not so valuable, nor so 
 handy. 
 
 “ I am thinking somewhat of sending to Mossamedes for two 
 riding oxen ; they are to be obtained there cheap, but here they 
 are not to be found. There are plenty of cattle on the road to 
 Bihe, but no certainty yet of how plentiful they are in Bihe. 
 
 “ During the past weeks there has grown up a better feeling 
 toward us. The people have now made up their minds that we 
 are what we represent ourselves to be, and not, as they supposed 
 and obstinately believed that we were, the first of a lot of Amer- 
 ican colonists who were going inland to open a new trade, and 
 establish a new town, and cut off all their customers before they 
 reached the coast. Now we are, in their view, only a well out- 
 fitted party of missionaries, to be looked upon with wonder, and 
 as, beyond all comprehension, insane and rather dangerous ; 
 but as we are here, and cannot very well be turned back now, 
 and as we are not quite so contemptible as they would like us 
 to be, they will treat us well to our faces, laugh at us behind 
 our backs, and impose on us financially on all possible occa- 
 sions. 
 
 “ Since I wrote the first part of this letter, I have seen and 
 hired the man spoken of for the purpose of guide and factotum 
 for the journey into Bihe'. He bears a splendid character as a 
 
22 
 
 WEST CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 guide and as a man to deal with the natives, but does not have 
 any character for honesty, and does not fail to get too full when 
 drink/ can be obtained. He has now promised to keep sober, 
 and has done so for some time. 
 
 “The question is yet an open one as to the best mode of 
 getting carriers. Some doubt has been thrown on the question 
 of sending to Bihe or Bailunda. How to do I am not yet sure, 
 but please remember that we are in Africa and not in America ; 
 that we have to deal with the Portuguese colonists and natives, 
 and that they are slow, slower , slowest ; that to move such a 
 force is not any child’s play ; that we are only just arrived 
 here and communication is very difficult. To illustrate : Ca- 
 tumbella, twelve miles away, can only be reached by special 
 messenger, and therefore two days, one to go and one to return, 
 are needed for any reply. One thing seems now to be certain : 
 whatever is finally adopted, there is no question but we shall 
 find the best way, for we are constantly enjoying the sense of 
 our Father’s hand leading us and opening our way, just as fast 
 as he wishes us to go. Sometimes we find that our way would 
 be to go faster than the Lord would have us go.” 
 
 VEXATIOUS DELAYS FOR LACK OF CARRIERS. 
 
 The new year of 1881 found them still in Benguela. January 
 7, Mr. Bagster says : 
 
 “ You may think that we are unnecessarily delaying in this 
 place ; but I think, were you here, you would see that everything 
 has been done that could be done, to hasten our departure from 
 this unhealthy place for the universally declared healthy region 
 of Bihe'. 
 
 “ I have found extreme difficulty in securing a guide, and it is 
 practicably impossible to go into Bihe without a guide who can 
 speak the native language ; for we find but very few who speak 
 Portuguese, on the road this side of Bihe ; and the advantage is 
 great of having a guide who knows the Sobas and can treat with 
 them. 
 
SECURING A GUIDE. 
 
 23 
 
 “ I have been working for the only two guides that were rec- 
 ommended in the smallest degree. 
 
 “First. Barros agreed to go; but I. heard such a bad account 
 of his drinking and stealing that, although he was recommended 
 very highly as a guide, when I heard of a far better man and as 
 good a guide, I attempted to hire, 
 
 “Second. Verissimo Jose Gon9alves, and thought everything 
 was arranged to the satisfaction of both parties ; but to my 
 surprise, he. returned to Catumbella without even a word to me 
 — either yes or no. Then I went down to Catumbella, and, 
 not hearing of any one else who would do, I offered Gonsalves 
 I * better terms, and again we parted with the brightest prospect 
 of' his going with us. That night he sent us a note positively 
 declining to go. 
 
 “Third. I sent for the man Barros (he is a Bihean), 
 and having told him why I was afraid of him, we talked the 
 matter over, and when every point was arranged, he agreed to 
 take us to Bihe. I then returned to Benguela to get an agree- 
 ment drawn up, and having done so (it could not be done in 
 Catumbella) sent it to a friend in Catumbella, who read it over 
 to the man Barros, who agreed to it and promised to be here to 
 begin January 1st, and to sign the agreement at the notary’s. 
 This is the 6th, and no Barros. On the 4th I sent a messenger 
 to Catumbella to ascertain the cause of delay, and hope to see 
 him back today. 
 
 “ As I found so much difficulty in hiring a guide I did not 
 send for porters ; but when I had hired Barros, then I at once 
 sent to Bihe for porters. The messenger got started, after 
 many delays, on the 31st of December, and now we look for the 
 porters between the 20th and 30th instant. Today we have no 
 guide. But then ‘The Lord reigneth,’ and he looks only for 
 the best service that his servants can give. And so we trust ; 
 and however crooked the way looks to us, yet it is the right way. 
 
 “ I have now for about eighteen days been scarcely free from 
 fever and chills, and again yesterday had to call in the doctor. 
 
24 
 
 WEST CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 Today I am better, and hope to continue to improve. I have, 
 however, had a very severe attack, notwithstanding all precau- 
 tions. It is a trial of faith, to lie upon the bed and see so much 
 needing to be done. But ‘ My strength ’ ‘ thy weakness.’ Ben- 
 guela is a very unhealthy place. I do not know of a Portuguese 
 who has not had fever since we came. The Portuguese looked 
 for us to have fever before we had been here one week. The 
 doctor who has been attending me since the third day is a fairly 
 good .physician, and can be said to understand the fever. My 
 greatest trouble has been my head ; it has been extremely bad. 
 Now I hope that I am improving and that I shall be able for 
 the work as it comes along.” 
 
 January 14th, 1881, he wrote: 
 
 “ Brother Sanders and Miller continue well. I am nearly 
 myself again and daily feel new strength and health, although 
 at times I find my head a little troublesome. I believe, how- 
 ever, with care, that I shall rejoice in strength by the time 
 the march begins inland. 
 
 “Indeed, wonderful has been the leading of the Lord, and 
 truly when my thought returns to it from time to time there 
 comes to me this confidence : if the past is thus and thus, how 
 absolute should be our confidence for the future ! And the eye 
 will fill with joy and the heart run over with thanksgiving. All 
 of grace. 
 
 “ How glad we should be to see the physician, I can hardly 
 tell you; and yet we can say, He doeth all things well. You 
 may be sure, however, that the right man, when he comes, will 
 be indeed ‘the beloved physician.’ 
 
 “ We have already heard that we are to be invited to remain 
 at Belmont, Mr. Silva Porto’s place, during the rains ; but this 
 needs confirmation. We should otherwise build a roof of poles 
 and thatch over our tents and be very snug. 
 
 “There has been much kindness shown us. Mr. Seruiya 
 
READY TO DEPART. 
 
 25 
 
 wrote to the king of Bihe in the first place in my name for por- 
 ters. Not content with this, he wrote again on his own account 
 and also to two of his friends in Bihe to go and see the king 
 and hasten the porters. I have heard today that our messen- 
 ger who left December 31st has reached Bihe'. We are busy 
 preparing the loads and packing up. There is an immense 
 amount of work to be done even now. Today we looked out 
 for the presents for the king of Bailunda, and two small sobas 
 on the way. I find a very small present does for these, and 
 have added somewhat to the king of Bailunda’s present, as from 
 all accounts we may find it a very advantageous thing to have 
 the station by the way established there, and we must win the 
 king on this first trip. The country is said to be as fine or finer 
 than Bihe. We pray for the continual blessing of our God, for 
 we evidently are wonderfully blest. 
 
 “Your grant of Bibles and Testaments has been remarkably 
 called for, and I believe will do much good. 
 
 “ I must close with this word : We continually praise God, 
 and gather much strength from so doing. We are going one 
 step at a time, but each one in simple dependence on Him.” 
 
 TRIAL TRIP TO CATUMBELLA FEVER BIBLE DISTRIBUTION. 
 
 Mr. Sanders writes, December 23, 1880, to January 20, 1881 : 
 
 “ On Sunday a riding ox was delivered. Two were ordered, 
 but Mr. Margnese’s agent could find only one that fulfilled the 
 requisite conditions. It cost $36.00, but with all charges cost 
 us here $44.00. It is in excellent trim, gentle and well-trained. 
 Monday night Mr. Bagster put on it the really good saddle that 
 he had made, while I strapped an empty sack on the strongest 
 donkey. Neither was inclined to go as fast as we wished just 
 at first, but very soon the ox did as he was required. Then we 
 tried following the donkey with the ox. It worked perfectly. 
 He trotted off so briskly that the ox was left well in the rear. 
 On the following day Mr. Bagster rode the ox to the ‘ alfandega ’ 
 
2 6 
 
 WEST CENTRA L AFRICA. 
 
 (custom-house). It was much admired there. When he returned 
 he complained of the excessive heat and sat about or lay down 
 during the rest of the day. During the night he had fever 
 which was connected with severe pain in the head and in all the 
 bones. 
 
 “ At four o’clock promptly one of our corrigadores aroused 
 us. Mr. Bagster felt a little better, so we decided to go. At 
 about a quarter to five we were off. At once the carriers began 
 to shout. At first I felt like criticising the fellows and drawing 
 thence a proof of how childish and simple they are. Bethinking 
 myself of the tifne when a freshman class, with about the same 
 average age, used to delight in shouts and yells, I refrained. 
 
 “ There are six men to each tepoia. They replace each other 
 about once in six rods. The changes are so arranged that each 
 one takes his turn behind at the heavy end as well as in front. 
 With increasing light came the opportunity of more closely 
 examining the carriers. Their heads were dressed in various 
 ways, but all quite simple. The most elaborate had the hair 
 
 parted in the middle ; then from that about thirty-five braids 
 
 extended down the sides and back of the head, giving it the 
 effect of alternate ridges and furrows. Most wore some charm 
 about the neck and wrists, or a rattle encircling the leg between 
 
 the knee and calf. This last is said to scare away snakes. 
 
 These men carry the tepoia at a slow trot. The exclamation 
 b-r-r-r-r-r, of disgust, is very frequent when a man takes the 
 heavy end. It always sounds funny to the person carried. 
 When two good men take hold they run quite rapidly for a few 
 rods. Most of them take the slow trot. It is found that if they 
 keep step it is harder to carry. 
 
 “The distance to Catumbella is variously estimated at from 
 ten to fifteen miles. It is a monotonous trip. Here and there 
 we met travelers, and then the greeting ‘ mui ’ was passed. 
 Just before reaching Catumbella we stopped to look at some 
 donkeys. While waiting to have them brought in we were 
 taken through one of the three aguardente distilleries. In one 
 
CATUMBELLA. 
 
 27 
 
 room was the crusher ; then the juice of the sugar-cane passed 
 intoafermenting-room, and the still was in a room beyond. This 
 mill belongs to the house where we were entertained a few days. 
 Having picked our donkeys we walked to the ferry near by. In 
 the river are many alligators. The manager of the mill said that 
 several blacks are killed by them every year. He has seen 
 them knock over a person stooping down to dip up or to drink 
 the water. Higher up the river among the mountains they are 
 said to be scarce. 
 
 “ Entering Catumbella we found it more compact than Ben- 
 guela and not nearly as pleasant. The few streets are narrow, 
 and have not so many trees. 
 
 “ We stopped with Mr. Borders for breakfast. Mr. Bagster 
 was taken with dizziness, and went to Mr. Borders’s room and 
 laid down. The conversation of the people who came in was 
 for the most part about our expected journey. Much unasked 
 advice was given. First, they said we shall act like madmen if 
 no aguardente is taken, for the chiefs or sobas. The expense, 
 they argued, would be trifling. Mr. Borders explained that we 
 intend to abstain from giving liquor, not on account of expense, 
 but from principle. At this they could but shrug their shoul- 
 ders. Mr. Borders said that, though taking no stock in our 
 beliefs or purposes, he wishes us well for our own sakes, and 
 would, therefore, like to see us avoid butting our heads against 
 a stone wall. None of these men believe that “the king’s heart 
 is in the hand of the Lord, as the rivers of water.” 
 
 “ We found Mr. Bagster feeling better, so we looked at a few 
 of the curiosities in the room. A sword showed that some- 
 where inland the people have considerable skill in working iron. 
 Especially interesting was a “ merimba.” It is a musical instru- 
 ment frequently met with among the natives. On a little board 
 about six by four inches is fastened, sometimes one, sometimes 
 two rows of long thin pieces of iron. They are fastened on with 
 a sort of iron rivets or nails. The curious fact is that many me- 
 rimbas have the first six notes of the diatonic scale almost per- 
 
28 
 
 WEST CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 fectly. Beyond that none of the six or seven that I examined 
 could go at all with correctness. The best of them had about 
 fourteen or sixteen notes. 
 
 “ Finding that tepoia poles are sold at Catumbella, and not 
 in Benguela, we went to get some. We walked up the street to 
 where the gentio come in from the interior, and where we must 
 go when we set out. The path passes up a steep hill, and then 
 along the ridge, until at the distance of about three quarters of a 
 mile, or a mile, it passes over a hill-top and out of sight. At 
 the side of the road were quite a number of men just arranging 
 their things for the return inland. Their clean, bright cloths 
 formed a great contrast to the dirty rags of the incoming barba- 
 rian. Having entered the house, bought some poles, and re- 
 turned to the door, we seated ourselves. There, looking toward 
 the interior of the house, we could see men sacking the salt they 
 had obtained. We also noticed here a peculiar custom of the 
 natives. A man wishing to pass through the midst of us, 
 stooped forward as he went, and also kept snapping thumb and 
 finger until beyond the last. The hand was held forward and 
 about as high as the knee. This seems to be their way of say- 
 ing, ‘ Excuse my passing in front of you.’ 
 
 “ About noon we started homeward to Benguela. Mr. Bag- 
 ster felt quite unwell, and preferred to be there if about to have 
 a season of sickness. Today he has been abed nearly all the 
 time, having several alternations of chills and fever. He de- 
 clares he is not so badly off as he has seen othe’rs. He is badly 
 enough off, I think. 
 
 “Today, I went to the tabelliao (notary) to have an agree- 
 ment with Barros drawn up. I saw in his house one of the 
 Bibles we gave away. It lay, not in a dark corner and covered 
 with dust, but on the center-table in the sitting-room. He 
 asked that I would sell or give him one (this was given to one 
 of his employes), though it is his wife, he explained, who desires 
 it. Taking warning from the last case, I said I would be very 
 glad to present him with one. 
 
FEVER. 
 
 29 
 
 “Dec. 28. Our Christmas was a little different from what we 
 could have wished. Mr. Bensande had invited us to Catum- 
 bella to dinner. Christmas morning, however, Mr. Bagster had 
 a very bad chill, so we sent for. a physician. He called three 
 times that day, twice the next, and once on Monday, when Mr. 
 Bagster asked me to send him a note saying that we would let 
 him know if there should be more need of his services. At the 
 same time we called another physician, under whose treatment 
 he is far better today, Tuesday. He has had intense pain in the 
 head for five or six days, but is better now. Last night he was 
 delirious for an hour or two. The fever was remittent. The 
 first doctor was going on the plan of large doses and starvation. 
 Mr. Bagster’s homeopathic instincts revolted at such treatment. 
 This other encourages eating, even more so than the pa- 
 tient would advocate, while the quantity of medicine is much 
 smaller. 
 
 “ Mr. Bensande, of Catumbella, wrote on Christmas day that 
 the messenger to Bihe for porters had already been sent. This 
 will enable us to start, perhaps, by the middle of January. I 
 imagine that in any case we shall be caught in the rains. Per- 
 haps they will hold off a few days however. Mr. Seruiya wrote 
 at the same time to a friend in Bihe to hurry matters as much 
 as possible. 
 
 “ yan. 4, 1881. I recollect that when on the steamer, we 
 pictured ourselves as well in on our journey by this time. Al- 
 ready the great potentate of Bihe was to have been sitting 
 expectant. As facts really stand, he probably has not heard 
 from us. Word came from Mr. Bensande on the 31st that the 
 messenger for porters had started only the day before. Nearly 
 six days he waited that he might be able to attach himself to 
 some company of travellers. 
 
 “ We begin to fear that Barros, our guide, has given us the 
 slip. It is already three days since he was to come. We shall 
 feel quite annoyed if there be difficulty on this score. 
 
 “On the 3d of January were delivered four more donkeys. 
 
30 
 
 WEST CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 We were gratified that they were not brought on Sunday. That 
 has been the time for such business so frequently, that we really 
 expected the same thing this time. The donkeys brought at first 
 are in a fine condition. Tonight, after dinner, I put on one of 
 them a little canvas saddle that I made yesterday. It is a very 
 simple affair, that took about half an hour for construction, but 
 gives a firm seat. The donkey started off finely, but soon had a 
 mind of his own. We failed to agree as to the route. As I 
 only had a halter, he gave much trouble. After considerable 
 struggling, I cuffed his ears, after which he was quite tractable, 
 and trotted as well as a donkey can. 
 
 “ The way we buy grass for our beasts is ridiculous. Several 
 women bring some bunches on their heads. One of our boys is 
 the regular buyer, and pays from three to six cents a bunch. 
 This morning the fellow was quite drunk. (We let them go to 
 a supper, on promise of an early return. They came in at six, 
 a.m.) I thought it would be better for me to buy this morning 
 on that account. So I went out, and paid seven and a half cents 
 apiece for two bunches, six for another, and four and a half for 
 another. He was around in a minute or two, as vexed as could 
 be, declaring that I had given one and a half cents too much 
 for those ; that they were worth only six cents. Some more hay- 
 venders coming just then, I reinstated him in his office. After 
 spending half an hour in ‘bearing’ the market, he brought 
 prices to their normal position again. We have to be particular 
 about these trifling expenses since they are so many that small 
 differences in price count up a good deal in the long run. 
 
 “ Mr. Bagster recovered from his fever so as to be well on 
 New Year. Yet he has not been really well since. His head 
 gives him trouble. He said today that it seems as if the blood 
 settles in his head when he lies down. If he lies on his back, 
 the back of his head aches when he arises. If on the side, the 
 under side of the head aches on getting up. Tonight he seems 
 to be quite badly off again. For three or four hours he worked 
 hard, and overdid himself. That is his danger. He had much 
 
A FALSE STAFF. 
 
 3 
 
 better let Mr. Miller or me, or some one else do the work, and 
 be content with the poorer workmanship. 
 
 “ I have been working this afternoon on a ‘ tampa,’ or frame, 
 that is above the hammock of the tepoia, for shading it The 
 carpenter charged such an outrageous price for making tepoias 
 that we bought a long board, the poles, 'and hammocks, and are 
 fixing them ourselves. 
 
 “All the Bibles that we can spare (we keep three to give in 
 Bihe), all but four Testaments, and about twenty Gospel portions 
 have been given away. Six of the Bibles were sold at five hun- 
 dred reis (fifty cents) each, and one Testament for three 
 hundred reis (thirty cents). 
 
 “ I have wondered how far they understood about these 
 books. They assent to all that is said about them (which is 
 necessarily very little). All desired the Bibles, partly because 
 the translation is the work of a priest, but chiefly on another 
 account. The livrinhos (little books) they say are for children. 
 The grown men feel that only the large ones befit them. There 
 has been only one woman for a book, although some may have 
 gotten them indirectly, as I know happened in one case.” 
 
 A FALSE START TAKEN FOR AMERICAN COLONISTS LEARNING 
 
 AMBUNDA. 
 
 Early in February porters were secured who had come down 
 from Bihe with loads for traders at Catumbella, and a start from 
 Benguela for Bihe was made. Mr. Sanders and Mr. Miller 
 went on to Catumbella, leaving Mr. Bagster to close up business. 
 On reaching Catumbella they found that these porters had been 
 cheated out of their wages by the traders, and had been advised 
 to repay themselves by robbing the Americans when they had 
 got them well into the mountains. The guide Barros was so 
 thoroughly convinced that mischief was brewing that he would 
 not assume the responsibility of starting. The only two men to 
 be trusted in Catumbella said, “ Don’t go ! Wait. It is not safe ; 
 you certainly will be murdered.” A friendly merchant had 
 
32 
 
 WEST CENTRAL AFRICA . 
 
 also just received letters from Bihe saying that the king had 
 despatched a company of porters to the coast in charge of his 
 nephew to conduct the missionaries to his capital. In view of 
 these things, they all returned to Benguela, where Mr. Bagster 
 had a severe attack of fever. 
 
 “ On Sunday night,” says Mr. Sanders, “ after talking about 
 Mr. Bagster’s needs, the physician who was attending him 
 entered into quite a discussion with me of a semi-religious 
 character. The chief point was to put Calvin, Luther, Renan, 
 and others, into the same category; the bond of union being 
 excommunication by the pope, and the attempt to found a new 
 religion. 
 
 “ Then he took another turn and asked when the colonists 
 would follow us. I remarked that we are missionaries and not 
 colonists. He acknowledged us as such, but said that England 
 always sends missionaries for the one purpose of giving peaceful 
 entrance to the colonists who are to be sent to that place. This 
 he adhered to as an undeniable fact. Then, laying down as 
 another certainty that England and America are really, and for 
 all practical purposes the same, he deduced the conclusion that 
 colonists are to follow us, and from this belief he would not 
 budge. 
 
 “ Mr. Miller and I are trying to get hold of a little Ambunda 
 every day. Mr. Bagster’s sickness has prevented him from 
 trying to do much as yet. It is difficult to get what we want 
 from our guide. He is not a born teacher, and soon tires if 
 the lesson lasts long. Today we have made some attempts to 
 make some of the gentio understand a few words, but succeeded 
 mostly in amusing them, or soliciting blank looks. However, 
 remembering: that the same results attended the first efforts at 
 Portuguese, we laugh too and try again.” 
 
 Of their progress in learning the language Mr. Miller writes 
 hopefully, February 15, 1881 : 
 
LEARNING AM BUND A. 
 
 33 
 
 “ I feel quite justified in not writing to you before now since 
 Mr. Bagster and Mr. Sanders have written you such voluminous 
 accounts of the expedition, place, and people. No doubt you 
 will be surprised to hear that we are not in Bihe. So are we. 
 We have had no opportunity yet to go. The porters of the 
 king of Bihe have been ordered, and are said to be on the road, 
 and will probably arrive here on the last of the month or first of 
 March. Our stay here has indeed been longer than we expected 
 or desired. Still we have got on very well, having a good house 
 to shelter us, and the climate apparently moderate, having a 
 strong sea-breeze daily, arising in the morning about ten o’clock, 
 and lasting till night, making one fancy himself to be in some 
 pleasant temperate region in a summer day. Although Benguela 
 is favored with this apparently healthy atmosphere, it is justly 
 considered unhealthy. The Portuguese who have been resi- 
 dents of the town for years are no more exempted from fever 
 than new comers. Mr. Sanders and I have been right well. 
 Mr. Bagster had two attacks of fever, but is well again. We are 
 spending our time in acquiring Portuguese and the language of 
 Bihe, called Ambunda. I have learned a good deal of Portu- 
 guese, enough to ask questions and to understand the answers, 
 which is a great help to me in acquiring Ambunda. 
 
 “ Our guide is a native of Bihe, who has acquired the Portu- 
 guese language and appears to be a very intelligent man. Mr. 
 Sanders and I take lessons under him in Ambunda, and, by 
 this means, we have learned many words of Bihe, or Ambunda, 
 already. We will be very glad indeed when the day comes for 
 us to go up to that lovely and healthy land. For we are told 
 constantly that it is a most beautiful and fertile country, abound- 
 ing in the riches of a tropical region, besides having ice from 
 two to three inches thick. The truth of this we shall test when 
 we get there. There we hope, in the name of God, to unfurl 
 the Christian banner and work bravely for our Lord. We are 
 by no means cast down, since God is our help. We shall do all 
 the good we can and leave results in the hands of God. It is 
 for us to obey and He will, provide. Therefore we go gladly to 
 
34 
 
 WEST CENTRAL AFR/CA. 
 
 do our Master’s will. Remember my kindest regards to all the 
 officers of the Board.” 
 
 OFF FOR BIHE THE ROUTE. 
 
 At last on the 9th of March, 1881, in cheerful spirits, our 
 friends left Benguela for good. 
 
 “First,” writes Mr. Bagster, “a health report: at present, 
 good. Brother Sanders boasts of feeling extra fine ; he can 
 pull down the scale at the same half-pound that I can ; that is 
 one hundred and forty-two pounds. The meaning of this is, he 
 has gained some ten pounds in Africa. I have lost some thir- 
 teen pounds. Brother Miller is well, growing in grace and 
 knowledge. As to self, I am on the third day out of bed, and 
 this is well. I am taken with a continual lazy fit. I take a few 
 days’ rest and a few days’ work. Really I do not think I have 
 been free from fever since the middle of December. But there 
 is one comfort even in the midst of discomfort — the Lord 
 reigneth. I find myself altogether too much of a grumbler and 
 am ashamed to own it ; but so it is. Yet truly I do rejoice, and 
 joy in the God of my salvation. 
 
 “ Second, I will attempt to give you a brief outline of the 
 route to Bihe' as gathered from various sources and as corrected 
 by Barros. Benguela to Catumbella on the coast line ; turn 
 inland to Kassange , one and one-third days from Catumbella, 
 passing the river Catumbella three times, and over the hills to 
 Kibula . Here the slight change comes in the Ambunda lan- 
 guage, and from here the same language prevails to Bihe. 
 Beyond Bihe other languages prevail. To Usoki ; fine country, 
 cross several streams, to Kibanda; to Bonga, a small town, 
 unimportant ; to Bailunda, about the elevation of Bihe and said 
 to be equally as important as Bihe, in fact larger and more pop- 
 ulous, and the king of Bailunda seems to be quite independent 
 of the king of Bihe. The people are different and marked by 
 distinct peculiarities. The Bihean seems the finer race. There 
 are evidently even now to be seen strong reasons why, in the 
 
THE ROUTE TO B/HE. 
 
 35 
 
 early future, a station, and a strong one, should be established 
 in Bailunda. 
 
 “ We pass to Bihe ; to do so we have to cross the river Ku- 
 kema. Our first halt in Bihe will be Belmont, on the Quito 
 River, and from there to the king’s town, called by the Biheans 
 ‘ Metrovongo,’ not Kagnombe. There seems to be some doubt 
 as to the width of the river in the rainy season, but they have no 
 doubt but that it is two hundred to two hundred and fifty yards 
 wide in the dry season, and deep. There are plenty of small 
 streams from four feet to twenty feet wide and from two feet to 
 ten feet deep. Fish are abundant and good ; small game also. 
 I hear a very good account of the king of Bihe when sober, and 
 have no question but he will use us with courtesy. Brothers 
 Sanders and Miller are doing well with the study of Ambunda ; 
 they have a collection of some four hundred and fifty words, 
 and Mr. Sanders already can understand a little and make him- 
 self understood in some simple matters. 
 
 “ March g. Today we leave Benguela for Bihe. Everything 
 has gone before ; all that remains is to close one or two small 
 accounts and follow. We leave Catumbella, the Lord willing, 
 tomorrow morning. Suddenly we found the chance to go and 
 we at once availed ourselves of it, and today, the second day 
 after hearing of it, we are on the road. Brothers Sanders and 
 Miller well, myself in poor condition. 
 
 “We do not go with the porters of the king of Bihe, but with 
 another man, and leave the loads ready for the king’s men. 
 They are bringing down produce, and will not reach here for 
 two months.” 
 
 They arrived at Catumbella safely. 
 
 “ The following day,” continues Mr. Bagster, “ was spent in 
 trying to gather up the promised porters. This was extremely 
 difficult. The head man of the Bihe caravan failed us entirely, 
 and at one time we thought that about thirty-five were all the 
 men we could get ; but after some had received their loads and 
 
36 
 
 WEST CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 started out to t'heir friends, we had a string of porters come in 
 until at four o’clock of the second day we mustered out some 
 sixty loads and a few men for donkeys, for tepoias, and the 
 usual odd lot of camp followers ; two seculas, guide Barros, 
 seven donkeys (one left at Benguela sick), and mission party ; 
 in all, about ninety-five souls. Behind us in Catumbella we had 
 been obliged to leave forty-two loads in store ; at Mr. Marques’s, 
 in Benguela, sixty-three boxes and bales, large and small, and 
 one hundred and ten bales and boxes in the custom-house.” 
 
 His next communication is from 
 
 “ Kassange (about forty miles from Catumbella), 
 15th March, 1881. 
 
 “Your. very welcome letter of January nth came to hand 
 today about ten o’clock a.ri. This is ten p.m. I have much to 
 report, but am quite unable to do it for this mail, and can only 
 say you shall have all particulars by next mail. The porters, 
 three — one will not travel alone — who brought the mail, are 
 sleeping at my feet as I write. They start back to Catumbella, 
 and from there the mail is forwarded to Benguela to catch this 
 month’s steamer, if possible. 
 
 “ I sit under a tree, the moon shines, and the mountains stand 
 round about in deep shade. Brothers Sanders and Miller are 
 in good health, and so am I. I have been wonderfully strength- 
 ened, and am well, although the day 1 left Benguela was most of 
 it spent in bed. I cannot give details ; time will not allow. 
 I only say this and tell you my intentions. The journey is far 
 more difficult and dangerous than I had been led to expect, and 
 of the roughest mountain travel. After this point, however, it 
 improves. It is impossible for ladies to come in here, except 
 under proper arrangements. These can be made, and a journey 
 that tried the pluck of the present three wquW lose its terrors, 
 and become at least endurable, and to those who love the 
 wonders and mighty handiwork of our God, really enjoyable. I 
 have, therefore, fully decided to go into Bihe with all haste, 
 
THE ROAD ROUGH. 
 
 37 
 
 there see the king, establish Brothers Sanders and Miller and 
 get them to work, and return to Benguela with Silva Porter and 
 Galvao, who will be about starting for Benguela. There I shal 
 look to meet the doctor and others, and safely and comfortably 
 take them into Bihe. This is my intention. 
 
 “ The journey from Benguela to Bihe is a very costly one and 
 the greatest care cannot make it otherwise. The fact is that 
 not only are there heavy expenses from the great tax that is put 
 upon each sixty pounds for carriage so long a distance, but the 
 multitude of calls and demands far, far exceed the actual wages 
 paid for a porter. Another thing of moment is this : it is abso- 
 lutely certain that no party can go in unarmed, and that porters 
 will not go unarmed. There is no reason, with proper precau- 
 tion, why any trouble should occur, but precautionary measures 
 are necessary. I am sure when I tell you that our guide would 
 not, all day yesterday or today, allow one of us to be for even 
 a short distance separated from the party, that you will think he 
 considered us in a dangerous country. About one third of the 
 road is thus dangerous ; the remainder is considered safe. 
 
 “ My present idea is that we shall be kindly received in Bihe, 
 and that an early addition to our number would be well. We 
 have much need of your constant and increasing prayers. 
 
 “Our guide Barros is the most awful liar I ever knew; he 
 much prefers lying to speaking the truth, and cannot be per- 
 suaded to speak the truth even on our business. So very bad is 
 this that we are always correcting his falsehoods and making 
 right his misstatements. When you think we have crowds of 
 the poor, ignorant blacks to deal with through him, and that I, 
 as leader, have the double difficulty of speaking through an 
 interpreter, you can understand that there is need of much 
 grace ; add to this the immense cost attached to moving in this 
 country, and you can perhaps enter somewhat into my present 
 position. But, as a friend said to me by this mail, ‘The Lord 
 Jesus does not want everything done in a minute.’ 
 
 “ I most strongly advise every man who comes here to bring 
 a good, medium-sized, stout young mule for riding, and a good 
 
38 
 
 WEST CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 saddle. The best build is the Mexican, or in default of this, a 
 good cavalry saddle, bridle, and blanket, etc. The ladies, unless 
 fearless riders, will do better in tepoias. The mules can be 
 bought in Lisbon and will be invaluable, and worth even the 
 heavy cost of purchase and shipment. I have a magnificent 
 riding ox, but the ox is only a make-shift, and not to be com- 
 pared to a mule. In case oxen are decided on, by all means 
 bring saddles. They cannot be found here. 
 
 “Please excuse this; but the lamp is very dim, and I am 
 weary. We press toward the mark. Our hearts long for these 
 people, and we are walking in the blessing to peace. May the 
 same Lord keep and bless you very abundantly. Yours in 
 Christ’s service.” 
 
 A ROUGH ROAD THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS. 
 
 Mr. Bagster does not represent the road as an easy one to 
 travel. 
 
 “From Catumbella it is a long and rough climb for four hours, 
 then a descent, then another mountain climb, then down, then 
 a long and broken road, then another long, steep mountain, and 
 a fearfully rough descent to the Catumbella River. This takes 
 from eight to ten hours of rapid marching over a country desti 
 tute of water : a few miles, perhaps five, by the side of the river 
 then a turn to the left into a romantic, grand, majestic canon, 
 between the mountains towering in naked strength, the gulches 
 filled with wild masses of vegetation, the path strewn with rocks, 
 the trees struggling to out-top the vines and climbing plants ; 
 but little water, every here and there a muddy place giving a 
 poor supply. 
 
 “ Constant travel and the rains have washed out the path, 
 only at best eight inches wide, to a sort of gutter, making all 
 walking very hard for man or beast. For any who can stand 
 the tepoia this will do, and for the one who brings ladies, this is 
 the only way. Brother Sanders has taken to the tepoia very 
 kindly, and rather enjoys the mode of travel. My dislike in- 
 
ITINERARY FROM CATUMBELLA TO BAILUNDA. 39 
 
 creases, and I am very thankful for the ox that has brought me 
 thus far on the way, although it has been very trying at times 
 because I have been compelled to override him some half a 
 mile an hour, and this has somewhat worried him ; but yet he 
 has been better than a tepoia. 
 
 “We reached this place, Bailunda, on Saturday at about ten 
 a.m., and went into camp ; put up tent amidst a tremendous 
 thunder-shower. Since then we have had constant cloudy, 
 showery weather ” 
 
 Mr. Sanders, in a letter dated Bailunda, March 28 to April 1, 
 1881, tells the story of their progress day by day: 
 
 ITINERARY FROM CATUMBELLA TO BAILUNDA. 
 
 “ We reached this place last Saturday (26th). I take up my 
 pen for the first letter since Catumbella. It will be well to start 
 from the beginning of our trip. 
 
 “On Friday, March n, after two days of vexation, we started 
 from Catumbella with about sixty carriers, the donkeys and an 
 ox. At the last minute it was found that not as many carriers 
 as were expected could be had. Hence the loads had to be 
 re-divided, and such as could be left were stored at Mr Ben- 
 sande’s. It was about four o’clock, p.m., when the donkeys 
 were saddled, put in the charge of four men, and started. As 
 the men knew nothing about them, I went with them, and 
 reached the encampment about eight o’clock. Mr. Bagster and 
 Mr. Miller waited to secure a few more men for a heavy load or 
 two, the carriers of which did not appear. 
 
 “ After much annoying delay, they set out at about eight, and 
 arrived in camp about ten. I had just dropped asleep, but was 
 awakened, and crawled from under the tepoia just as they 
 approached. There was nothing to do but to arrange ourselves 
 as comfortably as possible for sleep. This was a simple matter, 
 as we had but a blanket each. The “encampment” was no 
 more than a place where we all huddled together in the open 
 air. Only such water was to be had as each brought. The 
 place afforded neither water nor grass for the animals. 
 
40 
 
 WEST CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 “The carriers amused themselves a short time by singing. 
 One sings a solo, and the others take up the chorus, the music 
 of which seems always the same. The singing did not continue 
 long. All became quiet and apparently asleep. During the 
 night we were kept awake much by the cold which was greater 
 than I, at least, expected. The lack of shelter made it felt. 
 
 “On the morning of the 12th, almost before the eastern sky 
 was streaked by a ray of light, the carriers with their loads 
 began to rush off. The donkey men were calling to have their 
 beasts made ready. As soon as possible this was done. About 
 a quarter of six we started During all this day the donkeys 
 caused much work, because their drivers were ignorant how to 
 manage them. From the start the trail was rough. We crossed 
 two or three steep and long hills that tried the loaded donkeys 
 much. Finally, we came to the end of these hills, as our guide 
 assured us. Then the loads were shifted and the saddles tight- 
 ened. From this point to the river, he said, the road was good. 
 Mr. Miller, who had four tepoia men, pushed on toward the 
 river. 
 
 “ After going up and down a rolling country until nearly two 
 o’clock, the river came to view. The greenness along its banks 
 was a pleasant contrast to the dried-up country just passed. 
 The carriers were by the water side cooking their food. While 
 searching for two or three boxes which we wanted, I was joined 
 by Mr. Miller, who had just arrived. Both of us had walked 
 almost the whole distance on account of lack of carriers. This 
 is the great nuisance of tepoia travel, and one that we have con- 
 stantly experienced. In about half an hour Mr. Bagster arrived 
 with the donkeys. He had had to change the loads several 
 times. The donkey men had practically done nothing. The 
 guide, instead of helping when a donkey was down, seated him- 
 self and smiled at Mr. Bagster, as he worked and sweat. Mr. 
 Bagster was tired out from having to assume the labor of all 
 these. 
 
 “ Contrary to our expectation, we found that the camp was 
 more than an hour farther on. Giving the animals into the 
 
ITINERA R Y : CA AIRING OUT. 
 
 41 
 
 charge of their drivers, we stopped for a lunch or breakfast 
 before going on. 
 
 “ This river is the same that flows through Catumbella. Here 
 it is not more than forty feet wide. Even that I think is too 
 large an estimate. Soon we went on, and after a hot walk of 
 more than an hour arrived at camp. This consisted of eight or 
 ten huts enclosed by a brush fence. Only a small part of the 
 men could be with us here ; the rest found or made other 
 inclosures. 'The carriers are very particular to shut themselves 
 in thus at night. After reaching camp there was only time to 
 get dinner and put the things away before sunset and the 
 quickly following darkness. A good moon, however, enlight- 
 ened the first evenings of our trip. Spreading our blankets, we 
 laid ourselves down in the open air. Until we arrived in 
 Bailunda the tents were not used. But after a day or two of 
 traveling, the largest hut in the encampment was reserved for 
 our use. The natives build a hut, make a bed on each side, 
 and then, with a fire in the middle of the place all night, man- 
 age to keep comfortable. As between Catumbella and Kissange 
 there are no villages where the men may buy provisions, they 
 would not stop in camp over one day. 
 
 “Turning from the river, the trail passed up between the 
 mountains. It was a long, steep climb. The views on either 
 side called for constant admiration. The grandeur of the 
 mountains of rock gave a feeling of littleness to the looker-on. 
 Gazing at these views occupied but little of the time. The path 
 required much attention. Three or four times it was necessary 
 to use all efforts to get the donkeys over some especially bad 
 place. Had any of them been overloaded it would have been 
 necessary to take off the loads. The ox would follow Mr. Bag- 
 ster’s lead over these places without much trouble. While 
 ascending the hill we met a long line of people with loads des- 
 tined for Catumbella. This was a daily occurrence till we 
 reached Kitanda. There were from one to three hundred per- 
 sons in each company. Many boys, not more than eleven or 
 twelve years of age, were always present. 
 
42 
 
 WEST CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 “ When the head of the pass was reached, the aneroid carried 
 by Mr. Bagster indicated seventeen hundred and fifty feet. We 
 hoped the place for camping was near. It really was four hours 
 away. So we went on up small hills and down until met by a 
 few tepoia men, whom one of the seculas had gone ahead to 
 obtain. At about two or three o’clock an encampment was 
 reached. The scenery was rough and mountainous during the 
 latter part of the day. Close at hand the face of the country 
 was about as interesting as a mountain pasture, except that not 
 a tree of large size is to be seen. The trail, which consists of 
 one or several paths, is annoying and troublesome to the well- 
 shod traveler. The path is much of the time some inches 
 below the surface and only about four inches wide at the bottom. 
 A barefoot native travels quite freely in such a ditch, but the 
 wearer of large walking-shoes soon tires. After walking some 
 miles in such (though there are not often long continuous 
 stretches of this) we felt more like lying down at camp than 
 anything else. The ox was so worried by these paths and by the 
 rapid walking of the men that on the fifth, sixth, and seventh 
 days he was utterly discouraged. 
 
 “The guide, Barros, had asked us to go with ‘closed eyes.’ 
 He would look after everything. This advice did not recom- 
 mend itself next morning when one donkey was found still sad- 
 dled. However, after the donkeys were unsaddled by us at night, 
 a process too mysterious for the Kimbundu, he was responsible 
 for them until the next morning’s start, when they would again 
 need the saddle. 
 
 “Traveling but an hour or two, we camped by the hut of a 
 Portuguese. Much of the time that day was occupied in review- 
 ing loads and giving rations. Any such thing is slow and vexa- 
 tious. Three or four times, at least, a great clamor is sure to 
 be made. At last the matter was ended ; certain loads were 
 reserved to be opened, and the others were sent to the carriers’ 
 camps. 
 
 “ March 14. Some time before this the messengers with the 
 mail-bag had arrived. Now, about the middle of the afternoon, 
 
ITINERARY: NEW ENGLAND SCENERY. 
 
 43 
 
 the letters were read. The ‘ camp ’ was the shade of a small 
 tree, and here this afternoon and night were passed. Of course, 
 and as usual since then, a staring crowd (never exceeding thirty) 
 took the chance of getting personal knowledge of the whites. 
 
 “Early next morning, March 15, we were up and away. 
 Good-by was said to the Portuguese at whose house we stayed. 
 He had a hut no better than the natives. He declared them 
 robbers, etc They had stolen his cloth. Possibly they have 
 their opinion of him, who is a slave dealer. 
 
 “ Going on about three miles we found that one of our seculas 
 was sick and could not travel that day. So we entered an 
 encampment some distance off, and were glad to lie under a tree 
 and rest. The usual number of on-lookers were there ; but for 
 that there was no help. 
 
 “Making the usual early start in the morning, March 16, we 
 had a long and tedious tramp before encamping. Three times 
 we crossed a ‘ river ’ that was a good-sized brook. The rivers 
 here are insignificant. A ditch with scarcely any water is called 
 ‘river.’ From this day on, water was abundant. The porters 
 have a predisposition to pass the good water, and camp by that 
 which is muddy. Our caravan was so made up that they rushed 
 off in the morning with their loads and camped when and where 
 they pleased. Thus we never stop in a spot chosen by our- 
 selves. 
 
 “ This day, also, the scenery was grand. Several mountains 
 of bare rock appeared, and their various aspects, as we were in 
 different positions, kept our eyes turning toward them. At last, 
 while the first were yet in view, we encamped on a hillside facing 
 the last one. At this camp carriers for the tepoias were arranged. 
 They had been lacking thus far. The bad walking and heat 
 made the journey very trying. 
 
 “Early on Thursday, March 17, we were up and off. The 
 country this day exhibited no specially marked feature. No- 
 where does it seem tropical ; and such scenery would excite no 
 surprise in the latitude of Boston. Here all the vegetation 
 appears much like that of New England. 
 
44 
 
 WEST CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 “ I suppose the season of the year (autumn) accounts for the 
 absence of any great display of flowers. In the four or five 
 days before reaching Bailunda there were many flowers, yet in 
 no such abundance as at home in the spring. 
 
 “ The lack of good-sized trees is due, I suppose, to the con- 
 stantly passing caravans, which cut them down before they are 
 of any size. In most places they are hardly more than bushes. 
 Perhaps if we had gone some distance to the right or left large 
 trees would have been found. This day, after reaching camp, 
 the present for the soba of Kihula was made ready and sent. 
 The two seculas were entrusted with its delivery. A petty chief, 
 also, had to be presented with eight yards of cloth. This country, 
 as well as Kassange, just passed, is, the guide said, infested with 
 robbers. The Portuguese say that a white man may go with 
 his four tepoia carriers from Bihe to Benguela without the 
 slightest hindrance. Of course these men do not travel un- 
 armed. No one, black or white, starts without his rifle, if he 
 has one. 
 
 “ Here, as usual, a number of women and children are at 
 hand with corn and beer for sale. The products offered for sale 
 are few in number. First and chief, their beer should be men- 
 tioned. It is made by boiling corn meal and putting into this, 
 when cold, water prepared with the juice of a root found in 
 abundance. Next day the beer is ready. Corn meal and corn 
 on the ear are the next articles for sale that deserve mention. 
 These two forms of corn constitute the staple food of these 
 people How they can eat boiled corn meal day after day is a 
 wonder to us. It is no marvel that salt has great value here. 
 Without it, this diet must be insufferable. As a change from 
 pudding, they roast corn on the ear, and may be seen eating it 
 at any hour. Since reaching Kibanda sweet potatoes have been 
 quite abundant, but the carriers do not seem to use them much. 
 Beans, also, in these last days, have been offered at times. An 
 inferior kind of squash, grown in the corn-fields, is quite abun- 
 dant. Very little else is offered for sale. Generally our efforts 
 to get a chicken or two were unavailing. Eggs also are hard to 
 obtain. 
 
ITINERARY; DAILY ROUTINE. 
 
 45 
 
 “ Starting from camp, this first one in Kibula, we had the 
 usual routine, which I will describe in connection with this day, 
 Friday, March 18th. Before the first streak of light, Mr. Bag- 
 ster would be up and' begin warming breakfast. At the outset, 
 when Mr. Miller and I were in favor of making shift with a little 
 bite in the mornings and whenever very tired, Mr. Bagster 
 declared we must always take care to have our food regularly 
 and enough of it, or none of us would keep health and strength 
 to reach Bihe. As we brought no servant to do the cooking 
 Tthey could only have had women to cook] and as Mr. Miller or 
 I would soon reduce the party to semi-starvation were we to do 
 it, the actual cooking has mostly fallen to Mr. Bagster, while 
 Mr. Miller and I are assistants. 
 
 “Just as we finish breakfast, it grows light. The carriers now 
 clamor for the loads ; so those opened for our use (from four to 
 six) are hastily arranged and delivered to their carriers, who 
 bind them and follow those already gone. After getting rid of 
 these loads the donkeys are saddled and are then ready for the 
 drivers. Mr. Bagster then saddles his ox, the others arrange 
 their tepoias, and away we all go. Soon we get apart, it may 
 be not to see each other until at the encampment. 
 
 “ The journey on this day was between mountains, up hill 
 and down. The fields of corn were more numerous than before. 
 The corn is planted in rows and hilled as in America. Beans 
 and squashes, sometimes castor-oil beans, also mandioca, are 
 grown among the corn-stalks. It is noticeable that the fields 
 are scarcely ever protected either from beasts or travelers. 
 Of the former there seem to be none. Two wild animals 
 are the sum of those as yet seen by any of us. Mr. Bagster 
 saw something of about the size of a small pig, but it immedi- 
 ately disappeared. Mr. Miller also saw a wild goat. I never 
 saw a place where there seemed such an utter absence of 
 animals, domestic or wild. In Kassange they have many cattle, 
 but beyond that there are none until Bailunda is reached. 
 Though the path passes frequently through corn-fields, I saw no 
 one take an ear. Nor did any signs of robbery appear. I do 
 
4 6 
 
 WEST CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 not know what the power is that restrains them from petty theft 
 when there is such opportunity. 
 
 “Having crossed the river Bailombo (not more than twenty 
 yards at the ford) and gone on a mile, my carriers showed an 
 encampment where we stopped. After waiting an hour for the 
 others to arrive, I was told that they had encamped on the 
 other side of the river. Sending a note back, I found that my 
 men had taken me beyond the camp determined upon. With the 
 messenger, Mr. Bagster sent some food and blankets. Disliking 
 two more rides across the river on a man’s shoulders, I did not 
 go back, but camped alone, and quite early on Saturday Messrs. 
 Bagster and Miller came up. 
 
 “ Mr. Bagster had not been well during the night. The rem- 
 nants of Benguela fever were at work. After traveling till ten 
 we came to the house of a Mr. Coimbra. His elder brother we 
 have since met in Bailunda. Both of these men were in Bihe. 
 ‘ Mucanos ’ with the natives, as I understand, were the cause of 
 this man’s coming to Kibula. Pushing on toward camp, instead 
 of stopping to eat with him, we arrived in an hour or two in 
 camp. 
 
 “Here we stopped until Monday, March 21st. Sunday was, 
 however, anything but such as could be wished. On Saturday 
 evening Mr. Bagster was sick with fever. Sunday morning he 
 felt quite well, and we hoped for a quiet day. Scarcely was 
 breakfast over before the men began to clamor for rations, say- 
 ing that they had calculated to receive them at the next place, 
 but this delay made it necessary to have the cloth here. The 
 upshot was that it had to be given. This took a good while. 
 The work in the sun was scarcely over when Mr. Coimbra came 
 to visit us and sat till about three o’clock. He made a present 
 of two hens and some potatoes, which were acceptable. We 
 had given him a Portuguese New Testament. Before he left, 
 Mr. Bagster’s fever returned, much worse than on the preceding 
 da^ ; so much so that I feared we should be unable to go on 
 Monday. That night the men howled and sang to their own 
 delight and our annoyance. This camp was near Mt. Longa. 
 
ITINERARY: RAYING CARRIERS. 
 
 47 
 
 Setting out early on Monday, we began soon to ascend the 
 mountains. This tedious process continued for some hours 
 until a height was reached on which we have since kept. The 
 air became very perceptibly different, and more refreshing. 
 Some of the grasses were of great beauty. The bushes con- 
 tinued to show that the Cometivas (caravans) had made camps 
 all along the route. 
 
 “ Mr. Bagster was so unwell that he gave the tepoia men some 
 work. The heat and labor of riding the ox were more than he 
 could stand. After an unusually hard march we came to camp. 
 Mr. Bagster was much better then, and has been better ever 
 since. (I am writing this on the 30th.) All attempts on this 
 and other days to see tracks of game proved fruitless. Our 
 camp this night was in the vicinity of Mt. Usoke. 
 
 “Next day, March 22, we reached camp at about half-past 
 ten. Here the present for the king of Kibanda was entrusted 
 to the seculas. They disappeared, and were not seen till next 
 day. They reported that he was much obliged for that received, 
 but wished aguardente also. Our guide sent the messenger off 
 with the reply that we could not and would not give any. 
 
 “ On Wednesday, March 23, camp was reached early, between 
 twelve and one. Situated on a steep hill-side, even the beds 
 (native make) had an uncomfortable slope. Above, on the 
 brow of the hill, was a village whose people favored us with 
 their presence and wares. These were, as usual, of very small 
 variety. Before leaving Benguela our guide pictured all these 
 places as overflowing with fowls, pigs, goats, fruit, etc. It was 
 only by great pains that any animal, or fowl, or egg could be 
 procured. More than half of the time they could not be had. 
 
 “ Here notice was given that fourteen carriers must be paid 
 off. Barros told them to go home, and return for pay early 
 in the morning. One of the disadvantages of picking up car- 
 riers in Catumbella is that at each country some come for pay. 
 They have reached home, and will go no further. Then comes 
 the bother of getting new men. This is not always easily done. 
 On Thursday morning the carriers came for pay. Barros had 
 
48 
 
 WEST CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 asked a friend of his, a man of influence, to be present at the 
 payment, to see that all had fair play. This man was asked 
 what should be paid. Twelve yards, he said, was fair and right. 
 This, though far beyond the scale of prices given by Barros in 
 Benguela, Mr. Bagster prepared to pay. The first man refused 
 twelve yards. Sixteen, or nothing, would be taken. Then com- 
 menced a general wrangling that continued for hours. Barros , 
 said the Bailundas were inciting the fourteen to stick to their 
 claim. The friend of Barros sat on the fence, desiring on the 
 one hand to be with us, and yet to avoid giving the carriers 
 offense. The Bailundas were anxious and active in the affair, 
 because the pay of these would gauge their own. About two 
 o’clock a compromise was made for fourteen yards. After these 
 were dispatched, carriers were arranged in their places. Then 
 an understanding was reached with the Bailundas as to their 
 pay. 
 
 “ At this camp messengers came from Mr. Galvao. He heard 
 that we were in Kibanda and sent to know the certainty. He 
 had just reached Bailunda on his way to the coast. With him 
 was Joao Baptiste. By the messengers we sent a letter asking 
 him to do nothing about our carriers, requested of the king of 
 Bihe, until he should meet us. For he had sent word that he 
 brought a letter from the king of Bihe, asking the king of 
 Bailunda to furnish them. 
 
 “Next morning, March 24, an early start was made. About 
 nine o’clock the caravan divided. The river Koovoo had to be 
 crossed. The nearer route was said to be impassable by the 
 donkeys and ox. So most of the porters took the nearer course, 
 while we, with the animals, turned off to a better crossing. 
 Reaching the “ ford,” the people crossed in a leaky bark canoe. 
 The ferryman stood in the stern and skillfully managed the 
 nondescript. The passengers would crouch at the other end, 
 bending low to avoid tipping over the frail bark. 
 
 “ As the river was not more than eighty feet wide, yet with 
 considerable current, and deep, some ropes were spliced, and 
 one end taken across. To the other end were fastened two or 
 
A MUCANO. 
 
 49 
 
 three donkeys. They were pushed over the bank into the river, 
 and with a little guidance swam across. The same was done 
 with the ox. It was afternoon when all were across. Then 
 commenced a march lasting until four o’clock. Neither our 
 guide nor the secula with us knew the way. The men at last 
 were tired out, and we stopped, constructing a camp, as none 
 could be found. We could not help noticing how much less 
 fertile the land appeared here than before. 
 
 “ Next morning^early we set out, and about eight fell in with 
 the other carriers. Traveling till half-past ten, the camp was 
 reached. The seculas thought we should camp nearer the resi- 
 dence of the king, but we did not care to do so. The preceding 
 day it had rained, and scarcely had camp been reached before a 
 thunder-storm came on. These were the first showers on the 
 journey. 
 
 “ On Friday, March 25th, the only thing that seemed feasible 
 was to take the wetting, as most of our things were not with us. 
 On Saturday, March 26th, putting on our rubber clothes, we 
 raised the large tent, and soon were in good shelter. The tent 
 had not been used before. 
 
 “ I must go back to the first thing that happened in this camp. 
 Two men were carrying Mr. Miller’s tepoia as camp was reached 
 and carried him right in. A man with his load was standing 
 near where they came in. The front tepoia carrier warned him 
 of their approach, but yet his load was hit by the tepoia, fell 
 from his shoulders and, being a box with iron bands, cut a slight 
 gash on his forearm. It was a mere scratch, from one to two 
 inches in length. He immediately held up the arm for all to 
 see. A ‘ mucano ’ was soon on foot. The two carriers paid the 
 twelve yards each had earned, and a gun, merely as preliminary 
 hush-money. Next day the trial was held. A large fine was 
 imposed, but afterwards reduced to sixty yards of cloth. This 
 one of the seculas paid. The young man at the front of the 
 tepoia remains slave of the secula, but may be ransomed by 
 payment of two slaves. He is yet with us, as the secula has 
 not left our camp. The cut that caused all this fuss is so slight 
 
50 
 
 WEST CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 that, further than to be covered with a little sticking-plaster, it 
 deserves no thought. 
 
 “ From camp on Saturday we sent word to the king of our 
 arrival. Usually the whites send aguardente at the same time. 
 The seculas thought we must. We did not, substituting a few 
 handkerchiefs. As we neither could nor would give the liquor, 
 the king made no fuss. The rain fell more or less during the 
 afternoon and night. The tent kept us all right. 
 
 “ On Sunday morning the weather cleared. The carriers 
 early began demands for pay. Only a little time passed before 
 Mr. Galvao and Mr. Joao Baptiste visited us. They had sent 
 to have us call, but we replied that on Sunday we should not 
 call. Further, that the king had bidden us move our camp 
 nearer to his place on that day, but we had deferred the removal 
 on the same ground. Not having the same feeling about visiting 
 on Sunday, they came to us. Mr. Silva Porto does not pull 
 with these men. They tried to enlist the king of Bailunda in 
 their behalf against Bihe. Mr. Porto, on the other hand, urged 
 the king' to let them settle their own difficulty. 
 
 “On Monday we changed our camp, and are now about two 
 miles from the hill of the king. Wednesday and Thursday have 
 been passed in camp, ostensibly writing to America, but the 
 visits and disturbances make it slow work. Now we would like 
 to start for Bihe, but the cloth from Benguela has not arrived. 
 Until it comes we must stay here, though it be another week or 
 fortnight. The king has sent two goats and some corn meal : 
 says we must not be compelled to buy food while stopping with 
 him.” 
 
 THE KING OF BAILUNDA. 
 
 On Monday, March 28, the first call was made on the king of 
 Bailunda. Mr. Bagster thus describes the visit : 
 
 “Yesterday we went to see the king, and when there we 
 entered into a very new experience to me, which, though curi- 
 ous, was not pleasant After a busy morning, we reached the 
 
A VISIT TO THE KING OF BA/LUNDA. 
 
 51 
 
 king’s village by a brisk walk of three quarters of an hour. 
 When we approached the town we ascended a slope and came 
 suddenly to the foot of a small round hill on which the houses 
 are built, and at the top of which is the king’s compound. 
 After a steep climb, and passing through the crooked doors and 
 passages, we found ourselves by the king’s prison, and in the 
 yard next to the king’s house. There, under the shade of some 
 of the largest trees we have come across, we sat down upon 
 our own chairs and 1 vaited. In the course of half an hour some 
 one hundred men and boys had collected to see the sight, and 
 then came an immense bowl of native corn beer which was 
 passed round. Another waiting time followed ; then two large 
 bowls of beer ; then the ministers came in and sat upon a 
 natural terrace of rocks at our right ; after them the king, when 
 all clapped their hands twice. He was introduced to us, we 
 rose and shook hands, he seated himself upon my right, and 
 again the hands were clapped and the word ‘ Bokwata,’ ran 
 round the circle. This took Brother Sanders and myself by 
 surprise and we failed to clap; thereupon the king remarked 
 that the white men did not clap, for they despised the black 
 man. We corrected this idea, and the king, jumping up, went 
 off by another door, but soon came back, and clap, clap, and 
 ‘ Bokwata,’ went round the circle. The king called for our 
 Bailunda secula, who came forward and, squatting in the midst, 
 he gave an account of our journey, etc. The king asked our 
 guide some questions, after which our present to the king was 
 brought in — four pieces of large handkerchiefs (twelve in a 
 piece), two fancy shirts for himself, and six cheap cotton shirts, 
 two strong clasp knives, one copper tea-kettle, one concertina, 
 two pairs of cheap bracelets. To this we have to add, when 
 our cloth comes, one hundred and twenty or one hundred and 
 thirty yards of cotton cloth and prints. Our present satisfied 
 the king very well ; he only asked in addition for some of the 
 white man’s food, another kettle, and a chair. I replied that I 
 was soon going to Benguela and would bring him a handsome 
 blanket and chair. We were advised that this man was well 
 
52 
 
 WEST CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 worth winning as a friend, and that he was favorable to the 
 whites. Having sent for a fowl and given it us, the king asked 
 some more questions, and I had the question asked him if we 
 could stay, or return and settle in his country if we wished to, 
 trying to make him understand what our work is and what we 
 intend doing. He replied that he was an old man, that we 
 might come and live in his country for a thousand years if we 
 liked, but that when he died he could not say any more. Indeed, 
 he appeared pleased with the idea, and, taken altogether, was 
 certainly pleased with us. I told him I hoped that all our rela- 
 tions would be pleasant and long ; and at this point the irrepres- 
 sible courtiers began a discussion on the subject of making war 
 on the king of Bih^, to which the day previous the king had 
 been persuaded by Joas Baptiste, who says that the king of Bih£ 
 has robbed him of six thousand pounds’ weight of ivory, and he 
 is in hot haste to make war on the king. When we wearied of 
 the native eloquence, we got excused, and left. 
 
 “ The view from the king’s place is very beautiful, and indeed 
 any elevated spot near here gives a fine view. The leaning of 
 the whole council was toward making war ; but I do not believe 
 that the king, whose wife is a daughter of the king of Bih^, has 
 any intention of making war. The appearance of the king is of 
 a savage of kindly disposition, and far above the average black 
 in common sense ; a strongly-built man, gray, and showing some 
 signs of age, but certainly what would be called a good life in 
 an insurance office. 
 
 “ We have seen and received much information from Signor 
 Silva Porto, who seems to be a different man from the others 
 whom we have met. He has given us letters to Bihe, and has 
 placed one of his houses at our disposal. Signor Galvao has 
 also given us the best help and the unasked attention of four 
 letters to Bihe, one to the soba (king) to tell him not to 
 allow us to be bothered, or to allow any ‘ question,’ mucano, 
 to be put on us.” 
 
RETURNS TO BENGUELA . 
 
 53 
 
 MR. BAGSTER RETURNS TO BENGUELA. 
 
 Before proceeding to Bihe' it was judged expedient for 
 Mr. Bagster to return to Benguela, and hasten forward the 
 goods left there. Our friends had not gone far from Catum- 
 bella, on their way up, before they found that the journey was 
 costing, in presents to sobas and in pay of cloth to the porters, 
 so much more than the guide Barros had represented as to 
 cause serious embarrassment. Orders were sent back to have 
 more cloth forwarded. But one of the merchants who had been 
 engaged to attend to these matters died suddenly, and another 
 was obliged for special reasons to confine his attention to his 
 own affairs. The quickest and surest way of going through to 
 Bihe seemed to be for Mr. Sanders and Mr. Miller to remain in 
 Bailunda, while Mr. Bagster went down again to Benguela and 
 himself brought on the articles which had been left behind. 
 
 “We have seen the King Kwikwi, and have decided that the 
 only way to do is to return to Benguela. Brothers Sanders and 
 Miller go into a more permanent camp, rebuilding the fence, 
 enlarging the huts, removing the tent, etc., etc. I left them busy, 
 and with fifteen carriers and six tepoia men and secula, with a 
 few hangers on, I started on 12th of April for the coast. [This 
 letter is dated Benguela, May 6, 1881.] Twelve days is about 
 the shortest time of a caravan between Bailunda and Catum- 
 bella. 
 
 “ My road down was unmarked by any important incident 
 until the last few days. My attention was given to several 
 points, and much truer ideas of the country were obtained. I 
 traveled in the rainy season, and we had some storms and wet 
 nights. I closely watched the road to see if a lady could, with 
 any degree of comfort, be brought over it. I think it possible, 
 with good tepoia men and a very positive leader, who shall 
 compel some degree of obedience from the porters as to distance 
 marched, etc., to take in ladies. Without these precautions it 
 would be a very rough experience for any woman. 
 
54 
 
 WEST CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 “Another point of interest was the question of elevation, and 
 this I followed with care. I will prepare a table showing the 
 results. I recorded some thirty readings of the aneroids and 
 boiled the thermometer every noon on reaching camp. 
 
 “ I was impressed with the large number of living brooks and 
 small streams that we crossed. I was compelled to admit that it 
 is impossible to use anything like pack animals over this road ; but 
 the way for a man to go in and out is with a stout mule. There 
 is abundance of feed and water, and a mule would stand the 
 marches first-rate. A good ox, such as mine, is far preferable 
 for me to a tepoia, but the narrow paths are cruel on the ox and 
 worry him almost to death, besides making his feet and joints 
 almost raw by striking against each other and the sides of the 
 track. So bad are the paths that my ankles were so bruised by 
 the soles of my boots striking them as I lifted one foot by the 
 other in stepping, that they were discolored when I reached 
 Catumbella, and very painful. 
 
 “ Please state what you think of some one of us, when we are 
 established in Bihe, making the journey to Loanda. I am told, 
 on the authority of men who have traveled both roads, that 
 from Bailunda to Loanda the road is good ; some more hills to 
 cross than on the way to Catumbella, but on the whole a much 
 better road than that to Catumbella and Benguela. They say 
 that donkeys can bring in loads by this road from Loanda. 
 There are many reasons why Loanda would be far better for us 
 as a trading point than Benguela. There are reliable English 
 houses in Loanda; to wit, our consul, Mr. Newton, the English 
 consul, Mr. Cohen ; besides, the banking facilities are greater. 
 We could ship goods on the Coanza steamers to any point upon 
 the river that we wished, although the navigation of the upper 
 Coanza is impossible. 
 
 “ The road to Loanda is not direct from Bihe, but is through 
 Bailunda, where a station would cover the ground, whichever 
 road is decided on. The king of Bailunda, being king almost 
 to the town of Loanda, makes this road safe, and affords protec- 
 tion. It is said that it is possible to go to the Coanza at the 
 
SIGN LANGUAGE. 
 
 55 
 
 highest point of navigation direct from Bihe ; but there is no 
 road, and it is amongst at least uncertain tribes. 
 
 “ I do not think that the fevers of Loanda are any worse than 
 those in Benguela, and have not any fear of the fever for the 
 few days that any one needs to stay on the coast. I could 
 scarcely crawl out of bed when I started from the coast for the 
 interior. I came down from the interior, however, with ease, 
 rugged and well. The last day we marched over forty miles, 
 and I walked over thirty of this, and after dinner in Ca- 
 tumbella walked all over town with Mr. Bensande. 
 
 “The views upon the road are fine, and, going toward the 
 coast, finer than when going inland. 
 
 “Does the question arise: How did I make myself under- 
 
 stood ? I see one day there is a note such as this, in my note- 
 book : ‘ All well ; read much Scripture again today ; studied 
 Ambunda ; had an old visitor with a small bowl of ochimbombo 
 (native corn-beer), who got nothing; later, an intelligent mulatto, 
 who claimed the surrounding country and village. He knew 
 something of Portuguese, but words often failed my Ambunda 
 and his Portuguese. But signs were more effective than words ; 
 and when my chief visitor went away rejoicing in the possession 
 of two bright yellow handkerchiefs and a cup of sweet tea, you 
 would have agreed with him that the visit was no failure.’ 
 When Ambunda and Portuguese fail, then recourse is had to 
 signs, and these usually come off victorious. The mode here is 
 peculiar. The natives are much given to signs, as, for tomorrow, 
 it is “ hena ” and a snap or two of the fingers in front ; yesterday 
 is the same word, with the sndp or two backward over the 
 shoulder. In salutations they clap their hands or strike their 
 breasts. In passing before you into a hut, or in company, they 
 stop and snap their fingers repeatedly. We march but slowly 
 at this rate. 
 
 “We traveled all the road as far as Kassange without let or 
 hindrance. In passing I called on Mr. Galvao, and was most 
 courteously received, and had a nice chicken sent to my camp 
 I went into camp at Mr. Guimarai’s, where we stopped on the 
 
56 
 
 WEST CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 way in. He had a comfortable little cabin cleaned up for my 
 use, and invited me to dinner. I found the man to be exceed- 
 ingly poor, and glad of the little present I gave him on 
 leaving. 
 
 “ I had a new experience of the thieves in Kassange. One 
 of our men had a new handkerchief stolen from him, and after 
 they caught the thief, we had a terrible scene, and only the 
 exertions of secula Kalay and my own presence prevented 
 bloodshed. Our men at last allowed the thief to go, they 
 vowing vengeance, and he perfectly insane with passion. The 
 night passed quietly, but the next day, after a good start, we soon 
 got mixed up in a great caravan, also on its way to Catumbella. 
 The road closed up fast and we entered the magnificent canon, 
 Bundiangoi ; when I turned a bush in the path, we came upon a 
 crowd of men, who had caught and were binding two men. I 
 had given little credence to the tales of robbers in this section ; 
 but here, in open day, my heart grew still, and I stood powerless 
 to help. Twenty guns were about these two men, who were 
 soon bound. I not only saw them bound, but their goods 
 divided and they themselves led away. Just then secula Kalay, 
 the head of my men, came up, and he helped and indorsed these 
 men in their deed. Though deeply grieved, I was compelled to 
 follow down that canon with ten or twelve men before me lead- 
 ing one of those poor bound captives. Kalay told me repeatedly 
 that they would cut off his head, and this he said with the most 
 demonstrative action — the hand drawn across the neck. 
 
 “ What was to be done ? I was alone, and all that I could 
 say was ‘ Dati, dati ’ (no, no). ‘ Echi okasi chimi ’ (this is bad). 
 It was a horrid time. While we were marching along that day 
 with the captive, we met a few friends of his, who spoke to him, 
 and he begged them to rescue him. Instantly three or four 
 armed men sprang out of the path behind me, and one was in 
 the very act of firing down the path on the whole line of my 
 men. Seeing this, I turned quickly, facing them, and stood 
 between them and my men, to prevent their shooting, command- 
 ing them not to shoot. This seemed to attract attention. They 
 
PERILS IN THE WILDERNESS. 
 
 57 
 
 led the captive on, his friends stood off one side and watched 
 us pass. Suddenly they led off this captive to a camp, and 
 many of my men, Kalay amongst them, went also. I called 
 them back with strong emphasis ; only a few came, and although 
 I got an answer from Kalay, he did not come. My tepoia men 
 begged me to go on. I could see nothing else to be done, and 
 continued on my way, not knowing the trick that Kalay was 
 about to play on me. Having gone some three miles, we were 
 marched into camp at ii.io a.m., three hours short of the place 
 Kalay had repeatedly promised to reach that day — the Supwa 
 Pass and Catumbella River. I spoke sharply and told the 
 porters that this was not the camp ; that we were to go to 
 Supwa. Finding that Kalay was not coming, and that these 
 porters were all privy to this arrangement, I spoke out and told 
 them that they and Kalay were bad, and that I should bring 
 this matter before Kwikwi. Almost before my voice had ceased 
 to vibrate, a man had started back to report to Kalay; and right 
 well he reported, for between ten and eleven, in came Kalay in 
 a state of madness. He was wild that I should speak of report- 
 ing him to Kwikwi, and did an hour’s pretty rough talk. I gave 
 him time to blow, then repeated what I had said, and told him 
 how he had promised me to reach Catumbella the next day ; 
 and he, full of wrath, declared that we would go to Catumbella 
 the next day. I held my own and kept him in disgrace until 
 we reached Catumbella the next day at 6.10, having been on the 
 march over eleven hours, and the greater part of the way was 
 traveled at a tremendous pace. We rested at the river about 
 an hour. By aid of an interpreter I examined Kalay about 
 these days’ work, and found that he did fear my telling Kwikwi ; 
 however, he said (I don’t believe it), they had not killed that 
 man, only sold him. 
 
 “ The fact is that this road from Catumbella, for four days’ 
 march, is very unsafe, and in that canon there is great danger, 
 and proper precaution is necessary. The next morning, about 
 two miles below camp, I stood in the blood of a man murdered 
 
58 
 
 WEST CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 in the path the night before. No place could be better fitted 
 for murder and robbery than that canon, and certainly it is 
 well supplied with records of crime and sin. 
 
 FRIENDLINESS OF THE KING OF BIHE. 
 
 “ We have established the most promising relations with the 
 kings of Bailunda and Bihe. And for this we must give the 
 praise to our God. It is so wonderful, with all the dislike of 
 the traders, that not only are these kings willing to have us settle 
 in their country, but are eager and anxious for this. I have 
 seen several times the king of Bihe’s secretary, who speaks 
 Portuguese. 
 
 “ We have every reason to look upon the protection of the 
 king of Bailunda as good while in his country, and the king of 
 Bihe is equally ready to favor us and care for us. We have a 
 strong hold on the king of Bihe on account of the king of 
 Bailunda, who will readily receive us as permanent ‘ children ’ 
 of his. Indeed, the king of Bihe is anxious about it, and fears 
 we may decide to remain in Bailunda. My impression is that a 
 station should be established there at a very early date, and I 
 also incline to this step because, as far as Bailunda, the goods 
 that we may need can be forwarded with safety by Bailunda 
 carriers. 
 
 “ The system of giving presents is universal, and as the king 
 of Bailunda told me when I thanked him for the ox, the goats 
 and the fuba (corn meal) he had sent us, ‘ Oh, don’t thank me. 
 You are under no obligation at all, for do not you give me a 
 present ? ’ And so we pay in proportion, and have to reckon in 
 the present in the price ; and they take things for presents that 
 they refuse as in payment.’’ 
 
 On reaching Catumbella Mr. Bagster found that an officer of 
 the king of Bihe, who might be called the Secretary of State, 
 was in town. Mr. Bagster says : 
 
 “ This secretary came down from the king with threatening 
 
FRIENDLINESS OF THE KING OF BIHE. 
 
 59 
 
 letters to the people of Catumbella, complaining of the robbery 
 constantly practiced on ‘ his children ’ when they went down to 
 trade, and informing the Portuguese that this thing must be 
 stopped. There were no ifs or ands , but ‘just pay these claims 
 now and reform, or — ! ’ Almost every house in Catumbella 
 paid off a claim, some of them being of considerable amount. 
 
 “ The secretary was also charged with the duty of offering to me 
 all the help I might need, and to place himself at my command. He 
 did this in most elaborate and grotesque demonstrations. I 
 gave him messages to the king of Bihe.” 
 
 Mr. Bagster describes a scene in Catumbella when, as he was 
 sitting in a room writing, the secretary of the king of Bihe' 
 entered and commenced conversation with some Portuguese 
 gentlemen present, not noticing that Mr. Bagster was near : 
 
 “ The secretary began a long and very correct account of 
 three white men who had reached Bailunda ; of how much they 
 were liked ; of the commission that the king of Bihe had sent 
 him on, and how the king of Bailunda had taken a great liking 
 to them ; how they did not use any aguardente, and would not 
 give away any. 
 
 “ Here one of the men to whom he was speaking stopped him, 
 saying, ‘ Is this one of them ? ’ pointing to me. The secretary 
 was astonished to find me there, but at once, in voluble lan- 
 guage, began to pour out the king’s message to me, and offer 
 his services. Just a little faster than he could talk he went on 
 to describe to the company how the king of Bihe' wanted us to 
 go on to his country ; how he feared we might stay in Bailunda. 
 Then he told how we were going to build a house in Bihe, and 
 live there, not to trade ; no ! but to teach ; that we were padres, 
 but not like these Portuguese padres ; that we had some book 
 that we used. All this talk was accompanied by frowns and 
 gesticulations and signs of wonder. They could not stop him, 
 and he wound up with a vivid account of how I came down to 
 Catumbella with a tepoia, but walked nearly all the way.” 
 
6o 
 
 WEST CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 During Mr. Bagster’s absence, Messrs. Sanders and Miller 
 were well settled at Bailunda, about two miles from the king’s 
 compound, the king not being willing they should camp at a 
 greater distance, and were busily engaged in the study of Am- 
 bunda, in which they were making good progress. The king 
 appointed an officer to live in their camp, and no one was 
 allowed to molest them. Many presents were sent from the 
 king, baskets of corn meal, and occasionally a goat and some 
 beans. 
 
 The following letter from Mr. Miller shows how matters look 
 to this Hampton freedman : 
 
 “Bailunda, May i, 1881. 
 
 “We have got as far toward Bihe as the Bailunda country. 
 We had pretty hard times, indeed, in getting here. The roads, 
 if they may be so called, are the worst I ever saw ; so much so 
 that in many places I could hardly walk. Our seven donkeys 
 could not carry loads for a single day. Mr. Bagster’s riding ox 
 did well. Mr. Sanders and I are in camp here, waiting the 
 return of Mr. Bagster from Benguela, who was bound to go for 
 cloth to pay our way. After several days out, it was quite plain 
 that more cloth was needed ; so Mr. Bagster thought it best 
 for us to stop here while he goes to Benguela. This country 
 appears to be better than that we have passed, but far below 
 what it is represented to be. The population is not what is 
 expected, though quite intelligent. The aspect of the country 
 is somewhat pleasing, covered with low trees of a dwarfed 
 nature, and adorned with tall grass and thousands of white-ant 
 mounds. The natives cultivate the soil but little, raising corn, 
 potatoes, beans, and some other vegetables, to a very limited 
 extent. The king appears to be quite friendly toward us, send- 
 ing presents of corn, meal, beans, potatoes, goats, etc. When 
 we got this height above the sea, we hoped to outsoar chills 
 and fever ; but not so. I had a slight attack here for the first 
 time ; so also did Mr. Sanders. So I am confident that we 
 shall be subject to fevers here as at Benguela, or any other fever- 
 
MUCANOS . 
 
 6 
 
 stricken locality. The thermometer stands higher at noon than 
 ever at Benguela, though the heat is not felt so much. Morn- 
 ings and nights are quite cool ; sleeping under four or five 
 blankets is comfortable; winter clothes can be worn without 
 discomfort. Our house is a tent, with the addition of a hut in 
 which we do our cooking. The two young men that were with 
 us at Benguela were sent home to Loanda. We spend most of 
 our time in getting the language. We are getting on well, and 
 shall soon be able to make ourselves perfectly understood. I 
 suppose I am writing what you already know, but I feel it my 
 duty to write to you and give my views of what I have seen. 
 Little rain has fallen since our arrival, and this is said to be the 
 rainy season. We are encamped near the head of a small river ; 
 this I hope does not affect us. At present we are all well, and 
 hope you are the same.’’ 
 
 MUCANOS. 
 
 Serpa Pinto says that the word which strikes most terror in 
 Bihe is mucano. This is a fine levied by any person who deems 
 himself injured, and which, without waiting for a formal trial, 
 he can himself proceed to collect from the offending party. It 
 is a system which affords every opportunity for the most unjust 
 demands. Letters received from Mr. Sanders while at Bailunda, 
 May 9, speak of this matter : 
 
 “ We have been somewhat troubled about the matter of 
 mucanos. Mr. Bensande and others on the coast said we would 
 be entangled by the natives and stripped of all we have. I have 
 been pleased to hear from Mr. Coimbra, as well as from our 
 guide, that against ourselves personally they cannot have mu- 
 canos ; that ‘we would be robbed through our slaves ; that the 
 master is compelled to pay for his people.’ Further questions 
 elicited the information that servants who are hired by the day, 
 or week, and nightly return to their own houses, bring no 
 responsibility to their employers. All take it for granted that 
 our declarations as to purposes are merely made to conceal our 
 
62 
 
 WEST CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 real intentions. Hence they doubt not but that we shall own 
 slaves. Mr. Galvao gave the reason of our freedom from 
 mucanos : * Every white man is a soba here.’ 
 
 “This Sr. Lucas Coimbra is a chief and counsellor of the 
 king. He has a larger place in Bihe, it is said. Naturally the 
 greater privileges and distinctions enjoyed here make this the 
 favorite residence. Through him the king has invited us to go 
 and see some of the ceremonies in honor of some ancestors. I 
 mean to accept, trusting that the occasion will be less tedious 
 than visits of state.” 
 
 THE KING’S FESTIVAL. 
 
 “ Going to the festival with Sr. Lucas, we were received in fine 
 style at the outer gate by two men. Passing through another 
 gate we came to that in which the king receives and in which 
 he tries cases. He soon came from among the people and gave 
 his welcome. Then two huge pots of ochimbombo were brought 
 out for our refreshment. Each required two men to carry it. 
 Those with us felt their task a burden before we left the festival. 
 For no beer could be left or the king might say his gift was 
 despised. The manner of drinking makes abstinence the pref- 
 erable alternative. A large gourd is filled; sometimes two- 
 gallon gourds are used. An attendant brings it, and squatting 
 before some person, drinks. This proves it is not drugged. He 
 then cleans the rim with the palm of the hand, and passes the 
 dish. The recipient drinks, wipes, passes, etc. The palms of 
 some of these persons are clean, others are filthy. Though 
 they consider the gourd in better condition for use even after a 
 soiled hand has been passed over it, a stranger does not care to 
 drink with them. 
 
 “ After resting we went down to view the ceremonies. Some 
 women decked with red handkerchiefs and other finery were 
 dancing, while some men kept time by clapping of hands, an 
 unusual way of keeping time for the dance. These women 
 were supposed to be possessed by certain ancestral spirits of 
 the king, who had come from the other world. Their various 
 

 7 HE KING'S FESTIVAL . 63 
 
 motions were the working of the spirits. About four hundred 
 persons seemed to be present, though but few took part. After 
 the women stopped the men danced, but we soon took our leave. 
 On this day the king was not dressed in state. Mr. Miller went 
 on the next and great day, but noticed no difference in the exer- 
 cises. The king was robed in state. 
 
 “ After the king had three times asked to see my rifle, I took 
 it to show him. After doing business he led the way to a 
 bare spot by a private entrance. At the door he significantly 
 remarked that if it were desired to give a present without the 
 knowledge of his people, it should come by night through this 
 entrance. This from the supreme judge of the land we would 
 think quite out of place. 
 
 “ The caution of the king saved an exhibition of my unskill- 
 fulness. * Shoot high lest some one be hurt,’ was the drift of 
 his words. He pulled the trigger once, and seemed delighted 
 with the whole performance. Then he took myself and guide 
 into his private premises. The first enclosure is about forty by 
 eighty feet. In the middle is a little attempt at ornamental gar- 
 dening, but in a very rudimentary state. In one corner stands 
 a small hut, over whose doorway hangs a charm. Against the 
 wall leans a doll of wood. It is two feet high, and rudely made. 
 Its face is depicted on a flat surface with black paint. A cloth 
 wound about the body dresses it in native style. A small tree, 
 nearly dead, and in the centre of a stone heap, stands before 
 the hut. It is loaded with 6kulls of goats, and all together are 
 fairly clothed with cobwebs. This seems to be their religious 
 corner. 
 
 “ The other huts probably are storerooms, or belong to some 
 of the hundred wives he is said to have. It may be that this 
 matter of polygamy will prove as great an obstacle as in the Zulu 
 mission. I saw the queen sitting by two children as we passed 
 through this enclosure. The next is small and contains no huts. 
 Here the king, remarking, ‘ Enemies go no farther,’ opened a 
 door and preceded us within. The first hut had on the outside 
 attempts at frescoing and rude pictures of animals. This was 
 
64 
 
 WEST CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 the only noticeable thing. Five or six ordinary huts were there 
 also. The next enclosure was just a repetition of a cluster of 
 huts. Each hut belongs to a wife or concubine. These en- 
 closures are separated by wooden palisades. I should have said 
 that from the place where the rifle was fired there is a splendid 
 view of a part of the country. Many villages, or rather the 
 clumps of full-grown trees, indicating villages, could be seen. 
 They seem to choose hill-tops for their villages. The popula- 
 tion from this point of observation appears much larger than 
 from the other side of the hill. 
 
 “ Mr. Miller and I have had light attacks of fever this month, 
 but they are easily controlled. Just now both of us are well. 
 We are beset by many beggars [visitors], but have entirely 
 ceased giving to them. 
 
 “Beginning to understand the language I find it necessary to 
 make Barros correct himself quite often. If I say, ‘I do not 
 wish to give handkerchiefs for fowls,’ he says, ‘There are no 
 handkerchiefs, will you take riscado ? ’ Soon some handkerchiefs 
 must be used, then they will say, ‘ The white man is a liar.’ 
 When I make him give my words, he complains that I do not 
 understand how to do business with the Kimbundas. 
 
 “ The getting of the language is slow ; but on looking back 
 some progress is to be discovered. The Zulu and the Otyiherero 
 [books in which have been taken out by the missionaries] help 
 us in many places.” 
 
 • 
 
 Mr. Bagster having completed his business, left the coast 
 again, June 30, for the interior. “ My start, in much weakness,” 
 he writes, “ was very greatly helped by Mr. J. Bensande of Catum- 
 bella. His care of me and the kindness and courtesy have 
 been so great that all our seculos call him my brother, though 
 he is of strict Jewish parentage. He received me into his 
 house, sent me messengers to tell me my men had come, kept 
 me for over two days’ stop ; I was very sick and he gave me 
 his own bed, accompanied me on the way to see me off, sent on 
 before to our camp a joint of beef, two chickens roasted, eggs 
 
COLD WEATHER. 
 
 65 
 
 boiled, etc. Thus the Lord cares for us, and thus the hearts of 
 men are at his call. Mr. Bensande leaves for England in a 
 month.” 
 
 Mr. Bagster had intelligence from Mr. Sanders that a mu- 
 cano was threatening in consequence of the misbehavior of 
 some of the porters ; also that there had been a robbery of two 
 bales of goods, for which the king proposed to make the thieves 
 pay in wax, or ivory, or rubber. “ I shall not agree,” writes Mr. 
 Bagster, “ to receive anything in trade, for two reasons : first, we 
 are hated by the traders and watched eagerly for any chance 
 to destroy us. We are surrounded by traders, who would hold a 
 feast at the news of our destruction (I put it none too strong) ; 
 and I have been told by Silva Porta (who suspects us of trading) 
 that he or we leave Bihe, if he can only* catch us at that game. 
 You may judge who would leave. Second, I have given my 
 word not to do any trading, and said that the American Board 
 of Commissioners for Foreign Missions do not allow their 
 missionaries to trade.” 
 
 COLD WEATHER IN BAILUNDA INTRIGUES OF TRADERS AGAINST 
 
 THE MISSIONARIES. 
 
 Mr. Bagster writes from Bailunda, July 25, 1881 : 
 
 “Your letters, dated May 13th, and 17th, came to me duly on 
 the 20th inst. Fingers cold this morning, Thermometer 52 °. 
 Some nights it goes to the region of 40 °; then my tender 
 fingers and toes feel it, but the days are getting hot ; noons 
 the thermometer is 85° to 90° in the shade. 
 
 “ Last month I wrote you as to the Loanda route. I lean to 
 it more and more. We leave Bailunda for Bihe, after all our 
 delays, tomorrow morning, It is six days’ march ; already the 
 most of our loads are a day’s journey on the road. We also 
 should have been on the march, but the king of Bailunda’s 
 ambassador to the king of Bihe, sent on our behalf, was not 
 ready ; he has only 4 to drink beer today ’ and will go 
 tomorrow. 
 
66 
 
 WEST CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 “When we first reached Benguela, letters were written to the 
 king of Bailunda purporting to be from the governor of Ben- 
 guela, telling the king to murder us and take our goods — for we 
 were going to build a fort, and blow up 'all the people ; and that 
 we were big fetish. Another letter was written to Bihe, and even 
 more dreadful things invented about us. Now comes the ques- 
 tion: ‘How ’does this affect the natives ? ’ The cupidity of the 
 natives is worked upon strongly. Their intense superstition can 
 hardly bear the strain put upon it by the half believed tales of the 
 traders, and also by seeing us so different from the ‘ white men ’ 
 before known to them. The more direct result of these betters 
 has been, that the king of Bihe has sent to the king of Bailunda 
 ambassadors to consult as to our murder. The other day the 
 king of Bailunda’s councilors met to discuss this question, and 
 were coming to an unfavorable conclusion toward us, when the 
 old king came into council, and, hearing them, told them in a 
 rage that if they hurt us he should abdicate and return to his 
 old home near Loanda. They were not prepared for this, and 
 gave way. Now the king sends to Bihd, where they are very 
 uncertain about us, and tells them that ‘ if they take off our 
 heads, they will have to do the same to him. They must treat 
 us well.’ Do not understand too much from this, for it is only 
 one man, humanly speaking, who is on our side ; and the other 
 evening, when I showed the magic lantern, he was almost over- 
 come. He had exceedingly hard work to carry it, even after 
 having it carefully explained to him. 
 
 “ Of this land there is much to say, but only one truth is to be 
 presented ; this Bailunda fills the picture. Bihe has not one 
 tenth the power of Bailunda, and the people in Bihe will come 
 to Bailunda to ask justice or interference in their behalf. To- 
 day the king of Bailunda is our friend. He says, we have 
 ‘ white hearts,’ because we give no fire-water, no powder, and 
 no guns. But with all the great difficulty seems to be to get 
 them to understand what we have come here for, when we will 
 neither buy wax, rubber, ivory, fuba, nor slaves. ‘ What are 
 they here for ? ’ is the question asked again and again. We 
 
LEARNING THE LANGUAGE. 67 
 
 answer to the best of our ability, but there is nothing to lay hold 
 upon. 
 
 “ In the language, Brother Sanders is far ahead ; his help has 
 been the main stay, aird to him belongs the honor of what 
 has been done. Brother Miller has many words in memory. 
 Brother Sanders has now twelve hundred or more words written, 
 fairly correct for a first list, and better still, has begun very suc- 
 cessfully the reduction of the language to principles and into 
 tables, with their changes. 
 
 “ I realize that for some time our buildings in Bihe' must be 
 of the most imperfect character, because of the great want of 
 suitable timber for use, and also because of the jealousy which 
 would be felt if we should build with brick or stone. There are 
 times when a few days or weeks are full of importance and 
 meaning. We believe it is so now. And if we are on earth 
 when this letter reaches you, we may say the crisis is past, and 
 we may probably be allowed to remain in peace in Bihe. We 
 hear no sighs, no discouraging words in our camp ; we jus 
 keep on rejoicing and going forward. 
 
 “ July 26th. We wait today, being delayed by the king. We 
 leave tomorrow. There is much of uncertainty, though the out- 
 look is better. We had an audience with the king last evening 
 and find that there is a deep current of love for our cloth, in all 
 his devices to get us to stay. Do not fear for us in the least. 
 We have carefully weighed the question, and we go on, not only 
 hoping, but fully believing, that no real danger will come to us, 
 as evidently our Father is our leader. We hope to find that we 
 can station ourselves with “ Kapolro,” who 'is the nephew of 
 the king of Bihe, and equally powerful on the north branch of 
 the river Quito, and in the thickest part of the population, and 
 in the very spot for learning the language and for advance, it 
 being next to the Ganguelas, and the language in use being 
 both the Ambunda or Bihe, and the Ganguela. Nearly half the 
 words in use are common, and we have at once the power to 
 step over into the Ganguela country prepared to work. Also 
 we are the very farthest distance possible from the king. 
 
68 
 
 WEST CENTRA L AFR/CA. 
 
 “ July 2Qth. Today we are at the camp, near the village of 
 the seculo (petty chief), who has been to Catumbella three times 
 for us. He is the best, by far, that we have found. We go on 
 to Bihe tomorrow. I now wish we had no ambassador with us, 
 but we could not help it ; taking him was the only way to get 
 off from the king’s place at Bailunda. Our rising hour on the 
 march is 4.30 a.m. There is no man slain in our army. We 
 are strong and go forward. We still look to the lands north of 
 the Quito and to the part belonging to Kapolro, who is nephew 
 of the king of Bihe, but quite independent of him. 
 
 BACK AGAIN TO BAILUNDA. 
 
 Instead of planting themselves at Bihe, north of the Quito, 
 our brethren were compelled by the intrigues against them to 
 return to the station in Bailunda and wait further developments. 
 There is enough for them to do there, as Mr. Bagster has writ- 
 ten. In any event Bailunda must remain a commanding posi- 
 tion. Mr. Sanders writes, August 23d, 1881 : 
 
 “ You doubtless were surprised to see Bailunda at the head of 
 the page. After all, this is our first station. The last letters 
 were sent While on our way to Bihe. Your letter that came last 
 month suggested that we might already have chosen Bailunda. 
 Though we had thought of the matter before, we considered it 
 again, but decided to go on. We went on with delays and vexa- 
 tions, which arose chiefly from the presence of the king’s am- 
 bassador. He made us pay more than we ought, and in all 
 cases acted contrary to us. When we arrived at Biheli, a place 
 that is claimed by Bailunda and also by Bihe, he called on the 
 petty ruler with our little gift. On returning, he said an ambas- 
 sador had passed down but three days before with a message 
 from King Chileneo of Bihe to this effect: ‘Don’t bring those 
 whites here ; if you do, you will leave them here to be murdered 
 and plundered.’ Hence the ambassador refused to let us go on. 
 We did not believe the report. He had so acted that we had 
 no confidence in him. We said, ‘Go on; we will take the risk/ 
 
BA CK A GAIN IN BA IL UNDA . 
 
 69 
 
 He refused, and could not be induced to let us go. We desired 
 to pay off the carriers, and send on to Bihe for more. This he 
 would not allow. It seems ridiculous that we could not pay off 
 our own hired men ; it also seems ridiculous that my six tepoia 
 men refused to do as I told them, but it is a fact. We had 
 marched but two hours one day and the carriers rushed into a 
 camp. We desired to go on, and bade my men take the tepoia 
 and come on. They flatly refused. What could be done. We 
 might have drawn revolvers and routed the whole two hundred, 
 but our missionary career would have ended there. Our loads 
 make us dependent upon carriers, and they will do as they 
 please. Kalay always acts best, but is afraid to go with us 
 longer ; so great is the jealousy against him that he fears for his 
 life. The carriers generally are headstrong. We cannot decide 
 our dealings with them as we should between master and servant 
 in America. For instance, while at Biheli, Mr. Bagster and I 
 (expecting to be able to plant ourselves where we pleased in 
 Bailunda) thought it better to turn back and take a place near 
 the twenty or more villages which we had passed. Mr. Miller 
 said, ‘ Why not go and tell them that they must take us on or be 
 paid off ? ’ That was it exactly. In America it might have 
 been possible to do this ; here we were not allowed to go on or 
 to pay off the carriers. If we had tried the latter, not one would 
 have touched the cloth, and it would have been a case of no 
 payment ; the fact that it had been offered would have made no 
 difference. The ambassador said we must stop in Biheli four 
 days, till the king of Bailunda could be consulted. Nothing 
 could shake him. Our stock of cloth made us anxious about 
 the matter, and we decided, contrary to Mr. Miller’s wish, to go 
 back and select a place near the village and establish a station. 
 To this we obtained the consent of the ambassador. Mr. Bag- 
 ster and I started immediately to choose the place. Mr. Miller 
 was tb follow with the goods next day. In two days we came 
 to Kalay’s village. We prospected here without satisfactory 
 results. The next day our men refused to go on. We went 
 alone, and getting on a high ridge viewed the country. One 
 
70 
 
 WEST CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 place gave promise of a good location ; going there, we found it 
 the best yet seen. Here we decided to locate. On our return 
 we met a carrier about two miles from the place, who said our 
 loads were but a short way off, and we soon came to the camp. 
 Mr. Miller reported that when they came to the place where we 
 had passed the night, the carriers were furious that we had gone 
 on, and taking up their loads again, pushed on after us. The 
 exact cause of their feeling I do not know. They were probably 
 afraid that evil consequences would be brought upon them by 
 the king. 
 
 “ Having reached camp, we found it too late to get the men to 
 take our things where we desired. Next morning we paid them 
 off. The ambassador was not satisfied that we should stop 
 there, nor were the people ; they all feared the king. He has 
 declared that we are his whites, and if the people had let us stay 
 in their vicinity the king would have come and destroyed them. 
 Hence the only plan that satisfied all was that one of us should 
 go to the king and see about it. So I went, not taking our little 
 interpreter, as these fellows always put the case according to 
 their own views, instead of as we say. I arrived near our old 
 camp at five p.m. Next morning I visited the king. -Others 
 understood what I had to say. The king found it convenient to 
 appear angry because I came without Jose. However, it was 
 evident that the anger was in appearance only, so that he might 
 carry out his purpose. He said he would not let us go on to Bihe 
 at present ; that we should stop here near him, or he would take 
 us and all our things (except a tent and a few other articles that 
 he would keep) back to the coast. He found it convenient to 
 refer to Braga’s letter, and asked if we desired to be away from 
 him that we might build a fort and possess the country ? He 
 also pitched at my tepoia men in such a way that they laid them- 
 selves in the dust (the token of utter submission). Then he 
 ordered one of them to go and bring all the rest of our goods. 
 I sent a note to Mr. Bagster recounting the result. 
 
 “There was nothing to do but to come back. To stay where 
 we were we should have to fight both the Jdng and the people of 
 
BACK AG AIK IN BAILUNDA. 
 
 7 * 
 
 that place. For had the people brought us supplies it would be 
 rebellion ; and had they not been active in expelling us the 
 king would have laid their lands waste. Mr. Bagster said that 
 while I was away they showed great unwillingness for us to 
 remain among them. 
 
 “ Soon after I had returned from the king, a Portuguese half- 
 breed from Bihe, of whom I had heard, came by the camp and, 
 seeing me, came in. He said that there was nothing the matter 
 in Bihe' ; that Silva Porto had left a house for our occupancy, 
 and that the king was expecting us. The last clause struck me 
 as indefinite, so I asked further, and he said that so far as he 
 knew, the king of Bihe was well disposed toward us. He vol- 
 unteered to act as interpreter, so I went to the king of Bailunda 
 again. First, I asked that the Portuguese would state to the 
 king what he had stated to me. ‘ Let us speak about your other 
 matters,’ said he, ‘not about that.’ The upshot was that I got 
 no more light than I had in the morning. 
 
 “ One thing struck me as I talked with Mr. Gallses on our 
 way to the king. He said that we must not expect to be allowed 
 to build far from the king ; that if we had gone on the king of 
 Bihe would not have allowed us a residence more than three or 
 four miles from his village, just as is the case of all the other 
 whites. As none of my tepoia men dared help me to get back 
 where Messrs. Bagster and Miller were, I had to stop here or 
 abandon my tepoia and two loads, which I did not think wise 
 to do. 
 
 “If the men had dared to take me, I would have gone to 
 Messrs. Bagster and Miller and have urged that we stop where 
 we were until the last moment, when, by giving in, we could mend 
 matters. By this, we might have carried our point of building 
 where we desired. Not one man, however, dared lift a finger to 
 help. So I had to stay, and Mr. Bagster, as soon as he read 
 how matters stood here, decided that there was no alternative 
 but to come back. So here we are, a few rods from our old 
 camp. 
 
 “ We conclude that it is God’s will that for the present we 
 
72 
 
 WEST CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 stop here. We expect and hope that these are but temporary 
 quarters, say for two or three years, and for only a part of our 
 number. Of course, some of us expect to push on to Bihe, as 
 soon as the others come in. We are now building houses, and 
 have been at that and other work for about two weeks.' It goes 
 forward slowly. 
 
 “ The donkeys work very well, though they have been used 
 only two or three days thus far. We do not like our location. 
 Water is not as convenient as we desire. The trees do not 
 afford such timber as we would like. It has been with great 
 difficulty that posts and plates of from nine to fourteen feet 
 length have been found. Mr. Bagster, who does the calculating 
 and matching, finds it difficult to obtain satisfactory results on 
 account of the crookedness of the stuff. Nature seems to pro- 
 vide stuff fit for making native huts, and not much more. Yes- 
 terday we heard of a place about six miles distant, which the 
 king thinks we shall find a better location. We shall examine 
 it, but shall finish this place in order to have a shelter from the 
 soon expected. rains. The king sent for one of us, on the 23d, 
 and showed a letter from Barros. The latter had told the gov- 
 ernor of Benguela about the letters sent from Catumbella to 
 Bihe. The governor said this king must ‘get and transmit 
 these letters to him or be held responsible for the consequences/ 
 The king was told by us that he might do as he pleased. For 
 our part, we shall pay no attention to these or any other letters 
 that may be written. We will have nothing to do with the 
 matter. 
 
 9 
 
 “ As to ladies coming, Mr. Miller says he would not recom- 
 mend an acquaintance to come. Mr. Bagster thinks that just 
 now, if he could advise he would say, ‘Wait a little, we are un- 
 settled.’ But at the same time he feels that they can get on 
 very well here. For my part, I feel, that any lady devoted to 
 work for Christ, would not think she were enduring too great 
 hardships here. I think Mrs. Walter will say that the hardships 
 (or better, inconveniences) are far less than she expected. At 
 first arrival it looked a little dubious, but with better acquaint- 
 
HOUSEBUILDING. 
 
 73 
 
 ance I have no fear about their coming. There are annoyances 
 and perplexities, but none so great as I expected. We believe 
 that the Lord has many people here, and if we walk according 
 to his will, we may be used to bring some to a knowledge of 
 him.” 
 
 Letters received from Messrs. Sanders and Miller at Bailunda, 
 of as late a date as October 3, giye encouraging reports. The 
 king of Bihe had sent another message inviting the missionaries 
 to his country. Mr. Sanders replied that after Mr. Bagster 
 returned from the coast this invitation should be considered. 
 Of the two houses which they were building near the king’s 
 village, and which they hope to have finished by the time the 
 reinforcements arrived, Mr. Miller writes : 
 
 “ The dimensions of the houses are thirty-one by fourteen 
 feet, seven feet to the plates. They are only one story high, 
 each having a shed seven feet by twelve. One has a veranda 
 which, I think, will be very convenient. At present we have 
 dirt floors and mud walls, supported by upright poles inserted 
 in the walls. The mud cracks very much, but some lime of 
 inferior quality is found near the river that may be used in some 
 way to advantage. Each house has two doors and three win- 
 dows, and these we propose to make of heavy, clumsy timber, 
 chopped into plank by the natives, and brought from a long 
 distance. The plates are made of trees that we managed to 
 straighten a little after a good deal of lining, chipping, and 
 chopping. The rafters are poles averaging four or five inches 
 in diameter at the larger end. Smaller poles answer the place 
 of sheathing, bound on with bark strings, and the roof is cov- 
 ered with grass, about two feet thick. The natives did the most 
 of the thatching, and say it will not leak. It is a very cool 
 resort, and we hope to cover the other roof soon. Enough grass 
 is already bought, and on the ground. 
 
 “ Agriculture appears to be advancing slowly. We have not 
 planted anything yet, but have bought a good supply of corn 
 
74 
 
 WEST CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 and beans, meal, etc. I think we have about seventy-five of 
 eighty bushels of corn. This I think will carry us through the 
 expected time of scarcity, though I believe we could now buy 
 double the above quantity. It came for days after we told them 
 we had enough, and still some will come and try to sell. 
 
 “ We are getting along very well with the language, and hope 
 in due time to be able to teach and preach to this people. My 
 present impression concerning them is quite hopeful, and I 
 believe they can be elevated far above their present condition 
 by means of mission work. They are very willing to work 
 whenever anything is to be gained, and they apply themselves 
 to their appointed tasks with hearty zeal and faithfulness which 
 one would scarcely look for among a people who have had so 
 few advantages. My experience thus far with this people does 
 not confirm the reports as to their being ‘ thieves and liars.’ On 
 the contrary I have found them to be more truthful and honest 
 than I supposed. I am looking forward with joy to that happy 
 day when I can teach them to read about the Saviour and the 
 better land. How can any Christian look upon the privations 
 of the people, physical and spiritual, without being deeply 
 impressed with a desire to help them ? ” 
 
 THE KING THE SECULOS. 
 
 Of the king’s relation to the mission Mr. Sanders writes r 
 
 “ Yesterday the king who had been hunting called on us on 
 his way home. Of course, he was unwelcome, but fortunately 
 he did not enter our enclosure. He called upon Mr. Miller to 
 show his rifle, of which he had heard ; fired it ; wanted one like 
 it. When we said that neither powder, guns, nor fire-water are 
 given by us, he wished to write to our king to send him one. 
 On learning that ‘ our king ’ is unacquainted with us, and would 
 not notice such a letter, he wished us as his agents to buy one. 
 On being refused he grew quite vexed, but was happy when 
 given a piece of cloth. 
 
THE FIRST REINFORCEMENTS. 
 
 75 
 
 “The king occasionally calls on us for this or that. Long 
 ago he ‘ borrowed ’ the cornet, which has been of no use to us. 
 It was to be returned the day following. Instead came a sum- 
 mons to Brother Miller to come and blow it. Word was returned 
 that we had other business on hand, and it has not appeared 
 since. One day Jose and I called when returning from buying 
 a pig. Kwikwi wanted a key for one of his boxes. So it was 
 sent down, but no key we could spare could be fitted. 
 
 “ Barros and Jose have constantly persisted in giving out that 
 we are only making a trip through these countries. This has 
 been done, either because they really have not grasped what I 
 have tried to say, or because they believe that lies are better 
 than the truth. Last night some remarks of Jose led to this 
 subject again, and I tried to make him understand by declaring 
 the substance of our teachings and aims, etc. It was with sur_ 
 prise that I heard him ask if the blacks stand before God in the 
 same position with the whites ; if they have the same promises 
 and privileges. He appeared to be a very earnest listener as it 
 was explained that God looks at the heart rather than the color 
 of the skin ; that the latter is but man’s way. It was gratifying 
 to hear him reading his Testament a little later, and to find him 
 with it at an unusual hour this morning.” 
 
 THE FIRST REINFORCEMENTS. 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Frederick A. Walter, who sailed from Lisbon, 
 July 5th, landed in Benguela, September 5th, and there were 
 met by Mr. Bagster. 
 
 “ At five o’clock, p.m.,” writes Mr. Walter, “ I went on shore, 
 leaving my wife on board, assuring her I would return very soon. 
 My intention was to look for rooms, or a house to live in, while 
 in Benguela. After leaving the custom-house I started to go 
 to the house of Mr. Bastos, who had a letter from Brother 
 Bagster. On the way to the house, we met the postman, with a 
 lot of letters in his hand, standing in the middle of the street 
 giving letters to two different gentlemen, the one a Portuguese, 
 
76 
 
 WEST CENTRAL AFRICA . 
 
 the other a tall and healthy looking man, with a large wide-awake 
 hat on, a full beard, big brown shoes with very broad soles ; in 
 short, his whole appearance indicated that he had just returned 
 from a long march. He was eagerly looking over the letters 
 which were passed from hand to hand. Presently we came up 
 to the postman, and the gentleman with me, who is a friend of 
 Mr. Bastos, introduced me to one of the men. ‘ Senhor Bagster,’ 
 said he. We looked at each other, and you may guess what 
 followed. The fact was, Brother Bagster had just returned from 
 Bailunda with twenty-one men to meet us. After these were 
 brought under shelter and provided for the night, Brother Bagster 
 returned with me to the steamer, w'here we arrived at about 
 eleven o’clock. Thursday morning we all left the steamer to go 
 on shore. While we had our goods passed through the custom- 
 house, Brother Bagster went up town to find a house, in which 
 he was successful. In a few days a number of men will arrive 
 here from Bailunda to take our goods in ; but as most of them 
 need repacking in smaller loads, we shall be quite busy for a few 
 days. At present it seems as though we shall remain here till the 
 arrival of Dr. and Mrs. Nichols. My wife, almost without ex- 
 ception, has been exceedingly well during all the many miles we 
 have traveled since we left Boston. Even here she seems to be 
 in the best of health. We are both much pleased with the 
 climate. The thermometer is at 75°alldayin the house. We 
 are careful not to be in the sun any more than can be helped. 
 And while we are here our work will be mostly in-doors. One 
 month spent in Benguela under these circumstances will be well 
 for us all, we hope.” 
 
 Mr. Bagster writes from Benguela, September 12th : 
 
 “ We are glad, and sing and rejoice. If Mrs. Walter never 
 reaches our station, if no lady ever comes here, this is proven 
 today : when they come here they come to their own work — to 
 the right place. It is established as a fact that the woman who 
 comes in the name of Christ comes with peculiar and very 
 
BA1LUNDA TO BE THE FIRST STATION. 
 
 77 
 
 blessed power and influence. Do I write strongly ? I think 
 not. I am sure not. I know the journey will be long, tedious, 
 and difficult. I know that it will be trying and not without much 
 weariness ; but I say with all my heart, praise God that our first 
 lady missionary has reached us. Fearlessly give the word of 
 encouragement to those coming. They can come, and welcome 
 is assured to them. In my last letter I left you as we journeyed 
 up to Bihe. We started after many vexatious delays and many 
 great annoyances. We found out whole sides of the character 
 of the King Quiqui (or Kwikwi), of his counselors and of his 
 people. 
 
 “ We learned also many things about the country, its outlines, 
 geography, and inhabitants. We passed through many fields of 
 corn, manioc, and some sweet potatoes ; through a district very 
 well populated, well watered, and somewhat better timbered 
 than nearer the headquarters of the king. We had the pleasure 
 of seeing new places and hearing new sounds of insect life. We 
 became, not only better acquainted with the people, but also 
 learned their character in new phases, and in those that we 
 should perhaps have been long in finding out otherwise. We 
 have overlooked from some hill-tops a very large part of the 
 eastern side of King Kwikwi ’s territory. 
 
 “We reached in Biheli a tributary tribe of Bailunda, who were 
 only ten miles from the border of Bihe. There the ambassador 
 said, ‘ I have heard that the king of Bihe will kill you. I must 
 send back and ask King Kwikwi what is to be done.’ We said, 
 4 Go on ; the king of Bihe will not hurt us ; go on.’ But no, it 
 was useless ; we could only turn back. And having extorted a 
 promise to do as we wished, nothing was left us but to accept 
 carriers and return to the same place we left ; or, as all our huts, 
 fence, etc., were carried away in our absence, we located some 
 two hundred yards back in the scrubby woods. 
 
 “ We have built a brush fence round a plot, have made a corral 
 for the donkeys, have built a stage for our goods and secured them 
 upon it, have put up the frame for a rough temporary house, thirty - 
 
78 
 
 WEST CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 one by fourteen feet, have got hay enough to do a large part 
 of the thatching, have been able to get eighty bushels of corn 
 (maize), ten of beans, a few chickens, and two small hogs. Then 
 came the mail of August ; and two hours after the receipt 
 thereof, I was sending our man Jose to hire carriers to come to 
 this place (Benguela) where I now write, to meet Mr. and Mrs. 
 Walter. I reached here on the 5th ; met Mr. Walter four hun- 
 dred yards from the landing, as he was going up to town while 
 I was going to find him on the steamer. We spent the night on 
 board and landed the next day. 
 
 “I turn to note our present outlook. I have to say, briefly, 
 ‘ Good.’ The Lord has shown us that Bailunda is to be the 
 first station. The king has consented to our looking at a loca- 
 tion six miles further from him, and if not a good one, far better 
 than our present site. Brother Sanders was to see it and to 
 report. All are well. We are daily growing better friends with the 
 people, and becoming understood. We have nearly conquered 
 our very worst enemy, or danger ; i. e. their superstition. They 
 begin to see that it is not any fetish in us, but rather only ‘ wal- 
 ougrita.’ This term signifies a very smart, shrewd man. We 
 are now in possession of some thirteen hundred and more words 
 of their language, and have a fine beginning for a grammar. 
 We find a highly inflected language, and begin to know how it 
 is the inflections are made. We begin to pronounce a few 
 words in some degree like their own pronunciation of them. 
 We have adopted a mode of transcribing the language so perfect 
 that when Brother Sanders sent me down the names of one 
 hundred and fifty-eight carriers, every one readily answered to 
 his name. This means a great deal when such names are to be 
 inscribed as Yamunguli, Kawendimba, Mweinkisero, Mwein- 
 wooimba, Epatanga, Ukwayengu, Indiamvulu, Sakanjalomba. 
 We rejoice even in so very small degree to be understood. 
 
 “ We are now, unconsciously almost, in possession of a good 
 deal of the knowledge of the ways of this people which will 
 enable us largely to avoid confusion and excite both interest and 
 
ARRIVAL OF DR. NICHOLS. 
 
 79 
 
 sympathy. As to Benguela, Mr. and Mrs. Walter and myself 
 intend to remain here until the arrival of Dr. and Mrs. Nichols, 
 because of the impossibility of getting loads ready to go with 
 the men who are here, and those who are to be here in two days. 
 I have sent for one hundred and fifty carriers to take all in when 
 the steamer of October arrives.” 
 
 The steamer arrived October 6th, bringing Dr. and Mrs. 
 Nichols, who had had a pleasant voyage. 
 
 “ After the delay incident to all such operations,” writes Dr. 
 Nichols from Benguela, October 15, 1881, “we were permitted 
 to take boat for the shore. Passing rapidly between the fleets 
 of Oriental-looking lighters with their brown latteen sails, we 
 pulled to a handsome iron pier, where, among a score of others, 
 we distinguished two honest-looking gentlemen, in top boots of 
 russet leather and tweed raiment. One, tall, pale, and heavily 
 bearded, stood in the background, regarding us scrutinizingly 
 from under his flapping wide-awake and streaming puggree. 
 The other, round, smiling, and hearty, stepped briskly forward 
 to meet us. 
 
 “ ‘ Dr. Nichols ? ’ 
 
 “ ‘ The same ; and you, I suppose, are Mr. Walter? ’ And we 
 shook hands as old friends. 
 
 “ We are most impatient to start for the interior. Nearly all 
 our arrangements are now complete, and there is every reason 
 to hope that the carriers will be ready so that the caravan may 
 start the first of the week. 
 
 “ Last Sunday we celebrated the holy Sacrament of the Lord’s 
 'Supper. There were only five of us, but all actuated by the 
 same spirit, and all conscious of the Divine Presence. It was 
 an invaluable assistance, a source of much comfort and refresh- 
 ing, thus to find the table of our Lord spread in pagan Africa. 
 May the occasion never be forgotten ; indeed, I am sure it will 
 not be. 
 
8o 
 
 WEST CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 “ All the influences at work upon this land and people have been 
 bad. Even today the accursed system of slavery is in full force, 
 along this coast ; and with the licentiousness that always follows 
 slavery, all Angola is leprous. Under these circumstances, one 
 must have a fertile fancy, and exercise it without restraint, who 
 would form even a faint idea of the difficulties which are to be 
 overcome. 
 
 “ We received yesterday, or the day before, an embassy from 
 the Sova of Bailunda in the person of a villainous-looking little 
 man with thin, sharply-cut lips, and a face deeply furrowed by 
 age. This was the tailor to his majesty, a most influential 
 and noted personage ; with him were two of his own race and 
 two Bihenos. These latter were attired in the ordinary costume 
 of their people, but the royal legate was marvelous to behold 
 decked in a flannel shirt of many hues, and armed with a saber 
 of prodigious size. He expressed himself much pleased to 
 learn that we were to bring two white ladies into his sovereign’s 
 realms, and most profound were his bows of salutation. 
 
 “ One word I will say here for the guidance of such as follow 
 us. It would be well for all, ladies included, to provide them- 
 selves with high boots. The so-called ‘jigger’ is no contempti- 
 ble foe, as I have already found to my cost. After a day or two 
 with the fleas, one becomes accustomed to the sensations of 
 biting and pricking, and so the other parasite, the jigger, makes 
 his entrance unnoticed, and unless one has a remarkably sensi- 
 tive organization, he will develop unknown to his ‘ host.’ When 
 mature, the abdominal rings contract an intimate adhesion to 
 the cells of the cutis vera, and an army of hungry larvae are 
 poured forth into the tissues. There is now no help for it ; 
 spreading in all directions, they invade not only the skin, but 
 muscles, tendons, and ligaments. It is rare to find one of the 
 natives with all his toes — I have not yet seen one — and at 
 least twenty-five per cent, of the blacks are actually crippled by 
 these industrious little scamps. 
 
 “There is no sure preventive against these consequences 
 
THE OUTLOOK FOR THE MISSION. 
 
 8l 
 
 but cleanliness and untiring vigilance ; nothing in the world will 
 keep them entirely at a distance ; but a pair of high boots ren- 
 ders one much less liable to their attacks, and when they do 
 assail one, a careful and complete extirpation finishes that 
 chapter. . 
 
 “I speak of jiggers from personal knowledge, bought dearly 
 enough. Every evening I make a most careful scrutiny, and 
 the result last night was an abundant supply of material for the 
 microscope. 
 
 “The entire party are enjoying good health, and so far no 
 one has felt the least touch of the fever.” 
 
 THE OUTLOOK FOR THE MISSION. 
 
 Mr. Bagster writes, from Benguela (October 15), of plans for 
 the future : 
 
 “ In respect to the road to Dondo we are now in a position to 
 say that it is open and traveled ; that many Bailunda men go 
 over the road for the purpose of carrying coffee to Dondo ; also 
 I am able to say that we have chatted over the matter, and we 
 intend to make the journey to Dondo at once, with a view to 
 establish a station there if possible. We shall have also this 
 object in view ; i. e ., the establishing a station in a large country 
 between the kingdoms of Bailunda and Dondo. We have heard 
 from our consul, Mr. Newton, in Loanda, and are offered by him 
 every accommodation and every needed help. 
 
 “You speak of making excursions and journeys in the whole 
 country. This cannot now be done. How soon we may be 
 allowed to do it I do not know. We are yet suspected, and are 
 in the hands of a tyrant, and have to stay or go just as he com- 
 mands. If I wanted to go to see some place ten miles away, 
 and wanted six men to go with me, not one would dare to lift 
 a load to go with me, unless I were allowed to go by the king. 
 Should they go unpermitted, their heads would pay for it. 
 Brother Sanders wished to go six fniles to see the very place 
 
82 
 
 WEST CENTRAL AFRICA. 
 
 the king has offered to us, but I am not speaking more than 
 truth to say that he was not allowed to go. The king told him 
 not to go until I came up. On account of the caprice of the 
 king, and the very great jealousy of the people, one against 
 another, new places are extremely difficult to reach. Today I 
 do not know that I shall be allowed to go out to Dondo. I 
 hope to do so, but cannot tell. 
 
 “ I regard it as proven now that Bailunda must be the large 
 station ; thence we can move on the country north of Bailunda; 
 then to the northwest part of Bihe, north of the Quito River, 
 Kapobro’s country, with its language half Ganguela and half 
 Ambunda ; then on into Ganguela, and far beyond. We thus 
 shall follow the grand high lands on perhaps their greatest 
 length inland, and shall be on the line of thickest population 
 toward the middle of Africa. The Ganguela language will take 
 us almost across the continent as we follow the trade of this 
 people. But at present we look to plant a mission in Bailunda, 
 and prospect the Dondo road and the Bihe country.” 
 
 November 12, 1881, Mr. Bagster writes: 
 
 “ We have started. All are at last upon the road to Catum- 
 bella. Our Lord Jesus is wonderfully good to us. We are 
 all more than glad. ... I have on my mind a subject on 
 which I want to write at some time. It is, ‘The Missionary’s 
 JOYS.’ Perhaps the only missionary I ever heard or read of 
 who gives any idea of the joy of missionary enterprise is 
 Dr. Livingstone ; and I shall attempt to explain how the 
 real love that impels the missionary to leave country and 
 home for foreign work ; how that little seed becomes a great 
 tree, and all the longings of his heart gather daily new 
 strength and joy by the love that goes out more and more 
 abundantly towards these people. . . . We stop in the town of 
 Catumbella tomorrow, Lord’s Day, and Monday we go out into 
 the hills. Now, dear brother, and all whom this word may 
 
IN BAILUNDA. 
 
 83 
 
 reach, just praise God with us and magnify his holy name, for 
 his love is wonderful. He knows we are little ones and he 
 treats us as such, so gracious is he. Praise the Lord. Amen.” 
 
 A pencilled note, dated November 30, announces that they 
 reached Bailunda in eighteen days. 
 
 “ Last night we all arrived safely in our camp at Bailunda. 
 We praise the Lord of journeying mercies. I write fully next 
 month ; today suffering much pain from a badly inflamed foot 
 and some little weariness. Yours, thankfully and trustfully and 
 hopefully in Christ Jesus. 
 
 P. S. After an informal talk with the mission members, it is 
 still thought that it will be well, as soon as practicable, to send 
 on one or two to prospect and view Bihe. w. w. b.” 
 
 “ Not by might nor by power, but by My Spirit,” are con- 
 quests to be won in this realm of the prince of darkness. Our 
 pioneers are affectionately commended to the prayers of all who 
 love our Lord. May their lives and health be precious in His 
 sight. May wisdom be given them to meet difficulties, and 
 patience and gentleness to disarm opposition, and grace to set 
 forth the gospel of the love of God so that many shall believe 
 unto life eternal. 
 

 
 
 
 
 % 
 
 

 PHOTOMOUNT 
 pamphlet Binder 
 
 Manufactured by 
 GAYLORD BROS. JrK. 
 Syracuse, N.Y. 
 Stockton, Calif. 
 
 DATE DUE 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 .urn 1 
 
 51995 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 f 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 DEMCO 38-297