Manuscript, Archives, and Rare nook Library EMORY UNIVERSITY I The Common Objects of the Sea Shore. Board Rev. J. G. Wood, ALA The Common Objects of the Country. Boards. Rev. J. G. Wood, ALA Woodlands, Heaths, and Hedges. Boards. Coiema> British Ferns. Boards. Coloured Plates. Thomas Afoore, F.L.S Favourite Flowers : How to Grow Them. A. G. Sutto? British Butterflies. With 200 Illustrations. Board Coleman Birds' Eggs and Nests. With 120 Illustrations by W S. Coleman. Boards. Rev. J. C. Atkinson Published by George Routledge and Sons. Books for the Country.—Continued. Life of a Nag Horse. Fcap. 8vo. Boards. J. 'Taylor. Food, Feeding, and Manure. Sibson. Crab, Shrimp, and Lobster Lore. w. b. Lord, r.a. Common British Moths. Rev. J. G. Wood. Window Gardening. The Homing or Carrier Pigeon. w. b. Tegetmeier. Geology for the Million. Common British Beetles. Rev. J. G. Wood. Price xs. 6d. each. (.Postage 2d.) * Cattle : Their Various Breeds, Management, and Diseases. Revised by W. and H. Raynbird. W. C. L. Martin. Dogs: Their Management in Health and Disease. May hew. Scientific Farming made Easy. Fcap. 8vo. t. c. Fletcher. Geological Gossip. Professor Ansted. Sibson's Agricultural Chemistry. Price 2s., in boards. The Rat. With Anecdotes. Uncle fames. Wild Flowers : Where to Find and How to Know Them. Illustrated. Spencer Thomson. Sibson's Every-day Chemistry. Haunts of the Wild Flowers. Anne Pratt. The Fine Edition, printed on superior paper in a large type, with the Plates printed in Colours, fcap. 8 vo, gilt edges. Price 3 s. 6d. each. Common Objects of the Sea Shore. Rev. y. g. Wood. Common Objects of the Country. Rev. y. g. Wood. Our Woodlands, Heaths, and Hedges. Coleman. British Ferns and Allied Plants. Moore. British Butterflies. Coleman. British Birds' Eggs and Nests. -Atkinson. Wild Flowers. spencer Thomson. Common Objects of the Microscope. Rev. y. g. Wood. The Kitchen and Flower Garden. e. s. Deiamer. The Fresh and Salt-water Aquarium. Rev. y. g. Wood. Common British Moths. - Rev. y. g. Wood. Published by George Routledge and Sons. ROUTLEDGE'S CHEAP COOKERY BOOKS. Francatelli's Cookery. 6d. Soyer's Cookery for the People, is. Mrs. Rundell's Domestic Cookery, is. Mrs. Rundell's Domestic Cookery, ij. 6d. cloth. The British Cookery Book. 3j. 6d. See also Household Manuals. ROUTLEDGE'S HOUSEHOLD MANUALS. Including the "Hundred Ways" Cookery Books. (.Postage id.) Dinners and Housekeeping. How to Preserve Fruit. Routledge's Recipe Book. Ready Remedies for Common Complaints. How to Dress Salad. How to Cook Game. How to Make Cakes. The Lady Housekeeper's Poultry Yard. How to Cook Vegetables. How to Make Pickles. The Invalid's Cook. How to Stew, Hash, and Curry Cold Meat. How to Make Puddings. Price 6d. each. The Cook's Own Book. The Lady's Letter Writer. The Gentleman's Letter Writer. The Village Museum. How to Cook Apples. How to Cook Eggs. How to Cook Rabbits. Every-Day Blunders in Speaking. How to Cook Potatoes. How to Cook Fish. The Lovers' Letter Writer. Cholera. Dr. Latikester. Home Nursing. How to Make Soups. Good Food. Dr. Lankester. How to Cook Onions. ROUTLEDGE'S SIXPENNY HANDBOOKS. With Illustrations and Illustrated Boarded Covers. (.Postage id.) Swimming. Gymnastics. Chess, with Diagrams. Whist. Billiards and Bagatelle. Draughts and Backgammon. Cricket. The Card Player. Rowing and Sailing. Riding and Driving. Shooting. [sword. Archery, Fencing, and Broad- Manly Exercises : Boxing, Run- ning, and Training. Croquet. Fishing. Ball Games. Conjuring. Football. Quoits and Bowls. Skating. Fireworks. 500 Riddles. Published by George Routledge and Sons. t THE FLOWER GARDEN, f Philobotanic Literature, CONTENTS. Floriculture—in what jrespects it differs from Kitchen-gardening Pajc 1 The Laying out and Planting of Gardens and Pleasure-grounds .. 2 Town Gardens 6 Villa Gardens .. .. 15 Country Gardens .. .. .20 Summary of Bulbous Flowers 21 Agapanthus—Amaryllis—Colchicum—Crocus — Crown Imperial — Daffodils —Violets—Fritillaries —Garlic— Corn Flags—Guernsey Lilies—Hyacinths—Iris—Ixias —Jonquils — Lilies — Narcissus—Snowdrops—Snow- flake—Squill—Star of Bethlehem—Tiger Flowers— Tuberose—Tulips—Zephyranthes .. .. 22—50 Tuberous and Rhizomatous Flowers 50 Aconite—Anemone—Arum—Christmas Rose—Cyclamen —Dahlias — Hemerocallis — Iris — Ladies' Slipper — Marvel of Peru—Monkshood—Orchis—Wood Sorrel —Everlasting Pea — Pseonies — Ranunculus — Tre- pseolum .. .. .. .. .. .. 51—72 Herbaceous Flowers 72 Alstrcemeria—American Cowslip —Antirrhinum—Aqui- legia — Swallow Wort — Auriculas — Campanulas — Campion Rose—Calceolarias—Carnations—Chrysanthe- mums—Cinerarias—Cobcea—Coltsfoot—Commelina— Cranesbill—Daisies—Dielytra—Escholtzia — Evening Primrose—Everlasting— Foxgloves—Geum—Gentian viii CONTENTS. Herbaceous Flowers (continued)— —G eraniums—Golden Eod—Grass — Flax — Forgde me-not—Fumitories—Hepatica—Hollyhocks—Hops— Larkspur — Lily of the Valley — Lobelias — London Pride—London Tuft—Lungwort—Lupines— Lychnis —Marsh Marigold— Mesembrianthemums — Michael- mas Daisies—Musk-plant—Moneywort — Pansies— Pentstemon—Perennial Aster—Periwinkles—Phlox— Pimpernel—Pinks— Polyanthus — Potentilla — Prim- roses—Eockets—St. John's Wort—Salvia—Scabious— Sedum — Spiderwort — Thrift—Valerian—Veronica— Violets—Water Lilies—Willow Herb .. Page 73—107 Shrubby and Sub-Shrubby Flowers 107 Althsea—American Allspice—Azalea—Berberry—Big- nonia—Birthwort—Bladder Senna—Bramble—Broom —Brugmansia —Buddlea—Camellia—Christ's Thorn— Cistus—Clianthus—Coronilla — Cy tisus — Daphne — Deutzia—Furze—Fuschia—Guelder Eose—Heaths— Hibiscus—Hollies—Honeysuckles—Hydrangea—Jes- samines—Kalmi a—Lavender—Citrus—Lilacs—Myr- ties —Nerium—Passion F'Dwer — Polygala — Pome- granates—Pears—Ehododqadrons—Eibes—Family of Eoses—Wall-flowers, &c. 107—158 Annual Flowers 158 Flowering Trees 159 The Calendar: Monthly Hints in Floriculture .. 16? October, 160—November, 161—December, 162—Janu- ary, 164—February, 165—March, 166—April, 168— May, 169—June, 170—July, 171—August, 172—Sep- tember 174 tSi&E t» cs c> *» 69 «« ,, ,, 175 THE FLOWER GARDEN. It would be an inconsiderate employment of out limited space, to repeat here such preliminary remarks to "The Kitchen Garden," as are applicable to horticulture in general. The plants which are candidates for admis- sion into the flower garden, are very much more nume- rous, and more varied in their constitution, native climate, and soil, than those cultivated for culinary and economical purposes. But the wider and more discursive the topic, the stricter is the economy of packing room forced upon the literary workman, who has only a certain number of pages allowed him in which to arrange his superabundant materials. Floriculture differs from kitchen-gardening in one grand principle,—that, whereas the latter has no free- will in the choice of the objects of its care,—for whether in Great Britain or Australia, in llussia or in Italy, a gentleman's household must be supplied with all possible, as well as all necessary, vegetables and fruits; the flower-gardener enjoys a wide range, and liberty of selec- tion, which makes a failure on his part incalculably more discreditable. He has only to keep up a goodly show, to maintain a fair outside, no matter with what mate- rials ; if one thing will not prove effective, let him try another; if one family of decorative vegetables will not suit his latitude, his aspect, and his soil, others, per- fectiy adapted to it, will almost beg him to patronize them. While the unhappy kitchen-gardener is com- pelled to furnish peaches in June, grapes in April, 2 THE ELOWEB GAEDEK. spinach all the dog-days through, and the materials for grcen-peas-soup in February,*—under every condition of the elements, and often with defective material appli- ances ;—the master of the ceremonies to the parterre and pleasure-ground has full carte-blanche given him: his employer merely says to him, in so many words, or by implication, " Let me have something pretty to look at, and cheerful to walk in; let the out-door apartment of my mansion, which we call ' the garden,' be always tasty, gay, and well furnished with seats and leafy alcoves for the ladies,—with fountains to serve as lustres, and their basins as mirrors,—with sun-dials instead of timepieces,—a smooth carpet of verdant turf softer and more elastic than a Persian rug,—and, everywhere that you can contrive to place them, well-chosen combina- tions of the brightest colours. Tou may order to any reasonable extent of the country nurserymen; and whenever I go to London, I will send you down any striking object that may chance to be attracting atten- tion there. Only let me have a well-kept flower-garden, and I shall be content. If we can show finer and more remarkable specimens than,our neighbours, so much the better; if not, at least let our garden be as good of its kind as theirs." The gardening artist who, under such circumstances,—with the accumulated treasures collected by Fortune, Lobb, Douglas, and other intrepid disco- verers, at his disposal,—foils to produce a pleasing and harmonious effect, is almost left without excuse. Therefore, in the laying out and planting gardens and pleasure-grounds, the wisest principle to start from is, not to gratify your own particular predilections in favour of certain classes of flowers and shrubs, but to make them subordinate to the local circumstances in which you find yourself placed. They must be the leading guides of what you will most cultivate, and even of your plan. Thus, in many famous gardens on the continent of Europe, many evergreens, which give the charm to our own shrubberies during a considerable portion of the * Sea the Gardener's Chronicle for January 5, 1856, THE ELOWER GARDEN. 3 year, either will not stand the winter, or are sure to be severely injured by it. Laurels, laurustinuses, arbu- tuses, bay-trees, and even Portugal laurels, are kept in tubs, that they may be housed when frost comes. Now, surely those gardeners show better taste by refraining from the employment of such evergreens in the same massive clumps as we do, than if they were to persist in parading half-dead and half-naked regiments of unaccli- mated and unacclimatable plants. Again: there is a tribe of plants, commonly spoken of by gardeners as American plants, with brilliant flowers, often of curious shape, and peculiar texture—often, too, with evergreen foliage,—which must have a special soil, heath-mould, to grow in, and which are the better for breathing an atmosphere of equable moisture. Rhododendrons, aza- lias, heaths, and kalmias, are of notorious beauty. Now, although beds of American plants may and ought to be made where the soil is not naturally suited for them, —and instances of horticultural success in this line are far from uncommon,—the principle here advocated is, that where the soil and climate are inherently congenial to American plants (as is the case in numerous sites in the hilly parts of England, Wales, Scotland, and Ire- land), there American plants should be made the leading feature of the flower-garden and the pleasure-ground. Thus, not far from Penzance, in Cornwall, there is an extensive grove of pinasters, with an underwood of gigantic rhododendrons,—whose blossoms, hang beyond the reach of the tallest man mounted on the tallest horse, now meeting overhead in thickets, now dispersed as independent evergreens. It would be in vain to attempt raising similar specimens under ordinary condi- tions of planting, while it was a happy idea to plant them where they flourish so luxuriantly. Again: the cypress is a magnificent ornament to the gardens of the south of Europe; but it requires a long roasting sum- mer to make it put forth all its strength. It is reaped able in the south of England; shabby-genteel higher up the island; in the north, miserable and poverty-struck B 2 4 THE ELOWER GARDEH. Of course, local circumstances, and especially peculiar skill and care, can modify the average effects of latitude, —even within a dozen miles of Edinburgh some decent specimens are to be seen; but wherever, in spite of a fair trial of sedulous attention, the cypress sinks below the standard of respectability, there is no wisdom in continuing the fight against nature—the idea is to be manfully dropped. Too often do we groan over the aspect of cypresses that look as if their owner were tak- ing care of them against an apprehended scarcity of birch-brooms. It would have been much better to plant in their. place holly, Portugal laurel, box, and yew. Hardy evergreens only are admissible within the bound- ary of a sensible gardener's domain. In short, it is true wisdom in ornamental gardening to long, not for what is most difficult, but for what is easiest to obtain, suppos-. ing it to be good in its way. Unusually fine specimens of ordinary plants are more admired than shabby speci- mens of rare ones; and, for still stronger reasons, a collection of fine, well-grown individuals is a more attractive sight than a collection of wretchednesses, however distant may be their native spot, or however much money they may have cost at the nursery. It is needless to explain that the above remarks do not apply to experiments in planting out, and testing the hardiness of newly-arrived species. In such cases, some risk must be run. Those who succeed, have the gratification of drawing the prize (which they well deserve) of having handsomer, because older-established, plants than , their neighbours growing out of doors, as happened to those who first ventured the Deodar Cedar and the Cryptome- ria Japonica to stand the winter as garden-trees, and the Dielytra spectabilis as a border-flower. Even the plan, form, and character of the flower- garden must be moulded by circumstances. It must be open, and yet private ; secluded from intrusion, and yet exposed to light and air. It must be conveniently near; as much under the eye and as open to the constant and immediate visits of the persons who are to enjoy it as THE ELOWEll GAKDEN. 5 can possibly be contrived: keeping in mind the notion that a flower-garden is a sort of open-air apartment, it should harmonize, both in style and magnitude, with tho residence of which it forms a part. Only one discre- pancy is permissible; a small but handsome and tasty cottage may stand in the midst of large and luxurious gardens. Even then, the disproportion should not be too glaring. But, except in tH largest cities, a vast house, a semi-palatial abode, with only a few square yards of court, and no garden, or only a tiny apology for one, is as offensive to good taste as it is inconvenient and uncomfortable to its occupants. The style, also, of the flower-garden must correspond with that of the house and grounds, and carry out the date of the archi- tecture. An Italian mansion, on the slope of a hill, should have its terraces, vases, balustrades, and flights of steps leading to the several levels of horizontal flower-beds, form- ing something like what Sir T. Browne called " the pensile or hanging gardens of Babylon." If the park is laid out in avenues, and the house is either in the Dutch or the Elizabethan style, then a geometric garden, with formal evergreens, with clipped yew hedges, and even with ver- dant, living sofas, obelisks, peacocks, statues, and ships of box and yew, will be in harmony. "While a park in the Brownean style of landscape-gardening, allows the flowers to be distributed in their place in the artificially- natural mode (as if the gardener were composing a pic- ture, or a scene for the opera), which is known all over Europe as eminently the English style of gardening. As a rule, the more wild and secluded the district in which the house is located, the more highly finished and well dressed ought the garden to be. In the highlands of Scotland, in the valleys of Wales, on the moors of Cornwall and Devon, the traveller has seen enough of thickets and rocks, and of wild nature in general; but a distant glance of his trim and regular garden, a peep at the top of trees and shrubs which are not to be found on the mountain-side, recall him at once, in idea, to his home, and forestall the realities of repose and comfort 6 THE ELOWEE GAEDEN. But, whatever style of garden is adopted, one grand miscalculation should be guarded against;—it is the large garden, which is too often coveted in the place of one in perfect trim. Men will grasp at more than can carry, when they are allowed the permission to 1#ke up a fair armful cf happiness; and so they forget the golden maxim, whether for ihe parterre or the cottage allotment,— " laudate ingentia rura, Exiguum colito." "Praise an extensive country estate; cultivate a little one." Flower gardens may be divided into three classes, TOWN GAEDENS, VILLA GAEDENS, and COUNTEY GAEDENS, or the gardens attached to gentlemen's country seats. TOWN GAEDENS The first point to carry, in these, is to get something pleasing and ornamental to grow; what those somethings are, will depend entirely upon circumstances. There are localities where almost nothing, in the shape of vegetable organization, can preserve life. Near Wolverhampton, the hardiest weeds are all that can be seen; and around the alkali works in the north of England, the trees and hawthorn hedges are killed; the herbage alone exists, and that does not always remain uninjured. It is clear that in a country town, of from five to ten thousand in- habitants, where no smoky or gas-exhaling manufactures are carried on, a longer list of plants can be grown and bloomed, than in the heart of London or Manchester. Therefore, the town gardener must be content with what he finds by actual experiment will bear his own peculiar climate. His first object must be to have abundance of fresh and healthy foliage; his second, though equally desirable aim, to enliven it with all the flowers he can. As to style, in small country towns, a landscape garden can be effectively laid out, where there is a brooklet, a bit of meadow, a rustic bridge, and a distant peep of the TOWH" OARUBNS. 7 open country. The smallest bit of real rural horizon isf an invaluable element in horticultural picture-making. But in large cities, a geometric or symmetrical plan is mostly the only available arrangement. Advantage may be taken of a passage, an archway, or a line of building, to help to form a vista or avenue, and to give the idea of greater extent than really exists. If people were not afraid of being reproached with a Cockney taste,—which taste is often no more than the wise and laudable desiro of deriving the utmost amount of enjoyment from the most limited capabilities and materials,—the Chinese style of gardening might be very advantageously employed in very many town gardens. It allows the display of many ornaments, it courts the introduction of incongruous flowers, it affords a place for the whims of wealthy fanciers, which otherwise must be excluded. The Chinese are admitted to be excellent gardeners, even by those who do not admire their taste. A Chinese town garden, employ- ing pot-plants, dwarf trees, movable trellis-work, and temporary summer-houses and flights of steps, in the same way that scenic artists use what are called " pro- perties" on the stage, might be made an ever-varying fund of amusement. The intelligent reader will have little difficulty in developing the hint thus started, especially after perusing the instructive and amusing works of Eobert Fortune. Shirley Hibberd, in " The Town Garden," makes the following sensible remarks :—" In an ordinary town garden, measuring, say some thirty feet by sixty, any- thing beyond a plain arrangement of oval and circular parterres, separated from the wall borders by a plain continuous path, is out of the question. Some people sketch out a narrow path of the most serpentine outline, which from a distance looks like a sandy snake; and this (after leading a visitor from the back door by a number of convolutions over every square yard of the entire garden, until he is dizzy with curves returning again and again upon themselves) ends abruptly in a high grimy wali, against which a few stones are piled to represent ' rock- 8 THE FLOWER GARDEN. work.' Now, besides the absurdity of a serpentine path m a small garden, such a path is made still more ridicu- lous by the fact of its leading nowhere ; whereas a simple division of the soil into parterres and gravel paths—with- out any attempt at the country lane or lovers' walk— accomplishes all that it professes, by enabling the visitor to reach any object that attracts him, the path itself remaining a convenience, not a feature. " Most town residences have front plots, and these, if well kept, add very much to the neatness, cheerfulness, and indeed respectability, of a house. Just as we judge of a man by his dress and general bearing, so may we judge of him by the appearance of his home. A scrubby pair of neglected chrysanthemums trailing over a sour and ragged grass-plot, or a sooty shrubbery of untrimmed, worm-eaten, and flowerless lilac-trees, do as much to dis- grace a house and its occupant, as a string of pewter pots dangling from the garden railings, and half-a-dozen broken windows. A front plot, being smaller, requires, of course, less labour than a garden, but, if possible, more taste. Lay out your plot in the simplest manner possible, and do not suffer your neighbour to laugh at an endless variety of parterres of all shapes and sizes, edged with oyster-shells, and filled up with plants that would disgrace a commou. One central bed, and a continuous border, are usually all you have room for, or, at least, three (always prefer odd numbers) beds of equal sizes, and in these you may keep up a show of annuals and herbaceous perennials. The centre of each bed should have a handsome flowering shrub; and near the house one or two laurels and a holly will serve as a screen against dust, and ensure privacy for your windows. A very small plot is best laid down with grass and clean gravel, without flowers at all; in the centre, a variegated holly, box-tree, or laurel, may be planted; and all the labour required is to keep the grass closely shaven, or the gravel neatly swept. Here the object must be to produce a neat appearance, and to avoid all attempts at bewildering outlines, massive shrubbery, or thiri sprink- TOWN GATtDENS 9 lings of innumerable colours. If you do not indulge in box edging in your garden behind, you should have it here if you grow flowers, it adds so much to the neatness and completeness of your outlines." Symmetrical gardens in towns offer the advantage of small, regular, corresponding beds, which may be kept gay by flowers grown in masses, many of which may be replaced by others soon after their bloom is over. Bulbous flowers are invaluable for this purpose ; the first season, they are almost always sure to blossom well, because they have formed their flowering germs else- where, under more favourable circumstances. The "White, Tiger, and Orange Lilies, as well as the Crown Imperial and the Hemerocallis, may remain permanently, if the situation is not altogether too close. Van Thol, Parrot, Bizarre, Double, and all the robuster Tulips ; Hyacinths, Crocuses, Snowdrops, and Narcissuses, will all bloom exceedingly well, if grown in town and country in alter- nate years. Those who have a town-house and a country- residence, or who can even make an arrangement with some country market-gardener, may thus maintain a collection of bulbs in serviceable condition for many years. With only a moderate double set, a few beds in town may be made gay every successive spring and summer. But in carrying out this, or any other like floricultural expedient, be it remembered that the plants must be set in proper soil. Townspeople are apt to fancy that earth is earth, and that nothing more is to be thought or said about it. Whereas, the soil of town gardens is not only exhausted for want of manure, but is often actually poisoned by deposits of soot, and other causes that have been in action for centuries past. Con- sequently, if you wish your flowers to thrive, provide them with a healthy medium for the reception of their roots, cart away as many loads as are requisite, and replace them with soil that is pure and fresh, whether from meadow, field, or heath. Small azaleas and rhodo- dendrons render useful service in town, from the ease with which they may be transplanted in spring, with 10 ■THE FLOWER GARRETT. their flower-buds already formed. The latter shrubs fulfil the double office of flowering plants and evergreens. When their leaves are begrimed with dirt that is plas- tered on them by the wind and rain, it is not altogether a loss of time to spend a few hours in washing them with a sponge and tepid soap and water. Many rhododendrons have the habit of flowering abundantly only every alter- nate season. Therefore the novice will not be dis- couraged at seeing but little bloom the second year, provided they have been planted in a bed of heath-mould. Birth worth, the Blue Passion-flower, Virginian Creeper, the White and Yellow Jessamines, several species of clematis, and ivy, are perennial creepers that bear the town air well, as does the Everlasting Pea; annuals are the Scarlet Eunner and its variety the Painted Lady, and the common Nasturtium, of sterling value. The Tuberous or Potato Nasturtium, deserves to be more generally known as a tough-constituted town climber. Hops (when not smitten with the plague of aphides) make elegant festoons for the balcony or verandah. Sweet Williams, raised from seed, in spring, in the country, and brought to town in March, will mostly make a gay bed for one season at least. The same of Canterbury bells, several Campanulas, Lychnises, Phloxes, and Pseonies. Sunflowers, white and yellow mallows, ten-week stocks, the Virginian stock, the Clarkias, the Antirrhinums, tall double Poppies, the double Marigold, the (Enotheras, or Evening Primroses, the Candytufts, Sweet Peas, and several Lupines, are acceptable annuals. Where there is room, the Lime is a good town tree, leafing early in spring, and perfuming the air with its blossoms in August, besides attracting the hum of bees; it also bears lopping, clipping, and training well. The Elder remains of moderate size, and its bunches of flowers are admirable. The various species of crabs, pears, and apples even thrive the better for the overdose of carbon which the atmosphere of towns con- tains. Dwarf Apple and Pyramidal Pear Trees, such as way be bought in Erance for tenpence each, might be TOWN GARDENS. 11 grown in even small gardens, if town gardeners did but understand tbe mode of keeping them in order, both at branch and root. Grass is such a staple article in English gardens, and, in truth adds so much to their beauty, that it seems hard to discourage its employment in towns. And yet, what are most of the grass-plots met with there, even with all the expense that is incurred for returfing, sanding, rolling, mowing, and guano ? Too often do we behold half-naked patches of ground, like threadbare coats or shocking-bad hats, that you have no pleasure in looking at, and are afraid to walk on. If the blades of grass will spindle up, long, lank, few. and far between,—if the roots will not tiller and thicken,—it is better to occupy the space with something else, even with a layer of clean bright gravel. Where a strip of green is wanted to run along the ground, as at the foot of buildings, round the base of a pedestal, or as the frame-work of a grass plot that is intended never to le trodden on, Ivy answers the purpose well, especially if the band of green is broad. The court of the Louvre, at Paris, furnishes a good example. If a narrow edging is all that is required, the Lesser Peri- winkle, planted thick, answers well, and will besides show its azure flowers in mild winters and forward springs. Hoses are unsuited for towns ; the Moss, Yellow, Bank- sian, and Austrian, especially so. Still, if your site tempts you to venture a few, try the Old. White, the Maiden's Blush, the Old Striped Bosa Mundi, the Port- land Hose, the Common Pink and Crimson Chinas, Madame Hardy (Bourbon), the coarser varieties of Rosa Gallica, Brutus or Brennus, and Aimee Vibert. One of the Boursault Hoses, which are vigorous climbers,—for instance, either the Blush Boursault (Calypso), or the Crimson Boursault (Amadis),—trained against a wall with a sunny and airy aspect, will sometimes, and per- haps, allow you to bud other varieties on it with tolerable success. Select the most vigorous perpetual Hoses for the experiment. The best mignonette is raised in the country, and brought to its city destination when just 12 THE FfcOWER GARDEH. beginning to flower. A professional gardener will take charge of your boxes, and return them stocked with healthier plants than you can raise at home. Violets, pansies, primroses, polyanthuses, anemones, heaths, and double daisies, do not bloom well " in populous cities pent," although they may not quite give up the ghost. Thrift, with its pink blossoms, and London Pride, with its pretty rosettes of leaves, are wonderfully hard to kill. The Lily of the Valley will often come up, spread, and blossom, year after year; so will its cousins, the Solo- mon's Seals. In not too choked town situations, an interesting branch of gardening may be practised on roofs and the tops of walls, by covering them with stonecrops, or Sedums, white and yellow, Houseleek, wall-flowers, Antirrhinums, both upright and pendulous, orpines, irises, and where continuance of shade is long, with mosses, polypody, wall-rue, cup-moss, and other elegant cryptogamous plants. Even trees will grow on the tops of walls (if the seed can drop into a convenient chink), as the Common Ash and the Mountain Ash. A difficulty in town gardens is to keep things from being wire-drawn, from running up tall with all their leaves at the top and the lower part of their stems naked, and from stretching out their branches, weak and droop- ing, to the right and left. "Want of light and air, after which the plants are stretching, is the cause of this lank and diffuse habit of growth; but the more it is allowed to go on unchecked, the worse the evil will become. The remedy is, careful and constant pruning, both of the spring and the summer shoots, so as to keep the shrub or tree as dense and compact as possible. Unfortunately, prunings which improve the mass of foliage also diminish the quantity of flowers. In towns, many laburnums, lilacs, Guelder roses, thorns, and almond-trees, which would bloom respectably if allowed to run on and on, flower not at all if they are cut close back. The fact is the result of the situation, and a sacrifice of some kind must be made. Isolated trees and shrubs, instead of being planted in clumps, are less liable to spindling in TOWN GARDENS. 13 town A. small greenhouse in town is useful, to receive in winter the shrubs and plants with which the balconies, steps, and windows may be adorned in summer. A pair or two of large American aloes, of orange-trees, pome- granates, and oleanders, in tubs or boxes, may be thus kept in health for years, and will give more style to the aspect of a house than a multitude of little ephemeral flowers in pots. Of course, town gardening is more ex- pensive and requires more constant attention than rural floriculture. The man of business, who has but little leisure to spare, will save much time and trouble (though he will also lose much wholesome mental relaxation), by contracting with a nurseryman by the year for the renewal of his bulbs and bedding-plants. Nor is such the way to economize. But for those who are fully occupied all day long, and who still like to see their little plot embroidered with flowers, although they can only admire their changing beauties as each successive Sunday comes round, the aid of a respectable nurseryman is well worth the considera- tion of proprietors of town and suburban gardens. It will cost very little more expense and trouble to plant, instead of the ordinary hardy shrubs and trees, others, varieties of the same species, whose appearance is more remarkable and unusual. For instance, there is the Cut-leaved Alder to take the place of the common Alder. The cut-leaved, variegated, and yellow-berried Elders, though they need not supersede, may thrive in company with the elder of the hedge. The Hazel with dark purple leaves, harmonizes well with the Copper Beech; though, unfortunately, nothing but moss will grow under the shade and drip of Beech-trees. The "Weeping "Walnut (by no means common) bears excellent fruit, besides making even a more massive tent of foliage than that characteristic tree, the Weeping Ash. There are also weeping elms, sophoras, birches, thorns, acacias, cherries, peaches, and others, from the stature of shrubs to the altitude of timber trees. A pair of Weeping Wil- lows, one on each side of a gateway, or at each corner of a respectable-sized front garden, have a happy effect in 14 THE FLOWER GARDEN. breaking, not too abruptly, lines of buildiifg, besides sheltering the mansion from gusty winds, and serving as a blind against intrusive gazers. The Weeping Willow has the advantage of leafing early, and also of retaining its foliage late. Cuttings raised from Napoleon's Willow differ somewhat from those usually grown in England, and have therefore the merit of novelty as well as of historic interest. Magnolias, trained against a wall, will not unfrequently produce their immense, white, "power- fully-scented flowers within the precincts of a city, not to mention their evergreen foliage. Another class of materials suitable for town gardens, on account of their highly artificial aspect, are the trees and shrubs with blotched, speckled and mottled leaves,—as ivy, aueuba, syringa, althaeas, maples, rhododendrons, and others, making altogether a long list. Some of these variegated plants, being of delicate constitution, require extra atten- tion to their soil and pruning. In England, town trees scarcely receive so much attention as is bestowed on them in Paris, and as, in fact, they well deserve. Along the Boulevards, and in many private and public gardens in the French metropolis,- are to be seen fine specimens, both young and old, of a tree called Ailanthus glandulosus, which is scarcely ever heard of here, and which, indeed, is by no means common in this country. It is very handsome while still quite young, may be easily made to run up with a tall straight stem before forming its bold spread- ing head, and, as Dr. Lindley observes, independent of its value as timber, it has good qualities, even in an ornamental point of view, which ought to have saved it from neglect; for it is perfectly hardy, has a most noble aspect, and grows excessively fast. It is a native of the northern provinces of China, and may be rapidly propa- gated in England from suckers, which it produces freely. The tree had been growing nearly thirty years in this country before its introduction into France; and now, while it is forgotten here, both there and in Italy it is much valued as a tree for shading public walks, and is planted for that purpose, as well as in gardens, together villa gardens. 15 with the Tulip-tree, the Catalpa, the Horsechestnut, the Platanus, and other large-leaved exotic trees, to whose number the Paulownia may now be added. Loudon's account of the Ailanthus shows how well it is adapted for towns. " Its leaves are not liable to be attacked by insects, which is a very great recommendation; and they continue on the tree, and retain their green colour, till the first frosts in November, when the leaflets drop sud- denly off, the petioles remaining on often a week or two longer. The tree grows in any soil, though one that is light and somewhat humid, and a sheltered situation, suit it best. In Prance, it is said to thrive on chalky soils, and attain a large size, where scarcely any other tree will grow. It is readily propagated by cuttings of the roots." villa gardens. The town gardener is restricted to growing what he can, and must be content to think that he has not laboured in vain if he can make a respectable display of foliage and flowers, no matter of what genera and spe- cies, exotic or native. A villa gardener has better opportunities, both as to greater extent of space and more favourable conditions of growth. Still, even he will be controlled by limits and prohibitive circumstances,' which he can neither break through nor go beyond. He may not be able to grow yellow roses, nor to make the scenery outside his boundary line subservient to that within it. His next-door neighbours, on either side, may be as opposite as the poles to himself in point of taste. Still, he has much within his reach. A great point in successful villa-gardening, is to carry out well one sole idea. Great variety there cannot be, nor contrast, in the moderate area of ground which most villas possess ; but there may be high finish, perfect good taste, choice selection, and manifestation of wealth, science, and skill. To attain this happy end, there must be unity of design ; without it, except by the merest accident, there will be merely a jumbling hotch-potch or chance-medley 16 THE ELOWEE GABDEK. salmagundi of gardening, whatever amount of cash and labour may be bestowed on horticultural incongruities. But with unity of design and a leading idea consistently carried out in all its details, failure is scarcely possible ; for, even should any blemishes result from accident while laying out the plan or from neglect in the parties who have to realize it, they will be so easy to remedy, when once the object in view is clearly defined, that a stranger will be scarcely aware of their having existed at all. On coming into possession of an old or neglected villa garden, wait a good twelvemonth before commencing alterations of any importance, even such as changing the lit..- of a gravel walk. Tou will thus have time to study its original character, and to make what you find grow- ing there take their place in what you propose to do. Often, you will rescue treasures that otherwise would have been destroyed, or thrown out as rubbish. Fig- trees may send up strong shoots, that will produce fruit in a year or two, from stumps that have been cut down to the ground, and left for dead; in damp out-of-the-way corners you may find exquisite moss roses, perhaps the "White Bath, or the Pompone Moss; or, some thorny bush that ignorant eyes mistake for a bramble, may be the Yellow Cabbage Bose; choice Tulips, Hyacinths, Anemones, and Dog's-tooth Violets, may spring up and flower from offsets and fragments left by persons who meant to have removed the whole original stock of roots ; curious perennials, like the Dragon Arum, after being crushed and trodden under foot for years, may gratefully repay a summer's kind treatment by sending up a stem and inflorescence which will be the wonder and admira- tion of half the parish. In short, with an old villa gar- den, cultivate it as it is, and wait. Draining, however, where required, can only be productive of good. The same of trenching two-spade deep, or at least some- what lower than the top spit, which has been cropped perhaps for successive years without renewal. In old gardens, plants that have been lost are sometimes thus VILLA GARDENS. 17 recovered, by bringing np their seeds to the influence of air and sunshine. If it be your task to make a new one, first ask your- self " What style of garden shall we have ? To what branch of horticulture shall we give our attention ? On which, group of the vegetable kingdom shall we spend our money ? How shall the exterior of our villa residence look from without and within? Shall we form a little arboretum, and nestlre ourselves beneath a cluster of some dozen or twenty rare hardy trees ? Shall we go into the Dutch line, and gratify our taste for florists' flowers ? Shall we make a Rosary, and be content to look a little naked in the winter if we can but have a blaze of bloom during summer and autumn ? Any of these proposed plans can be carried out in villa gar- dening; only—there must be no indecision, no patch- work, half-measures, nor coalitions of opposite aims and principles. There is one apparent exception to the rule; but then it requires both more time and a more daily and assiduous study of garden literature than villa-pro- prietors can mostly afford. The amateur who, happen- ing to have a sufficiency of land attached to his residence, chooses himself to take the command of two or three labourers, instead of employing a professional gardener at high wages, will adapt his practice to various ends, according as utility or ornament is the object the more desirable in his state of affairs. His horticulture is mostly of the composite order; he cultivates a garden of all-work. As the celebrated cobbler " lived in a stall— that served him for parlour, kitchen, and all," so the inde- pendent manager arranges a plot of ground so as to comprise the conveniences of orchard, kitchen-garde^ shrubbery, parterre, and terrace. And a capital school it is for the men and boys who are wise enough to look after instruction while working in it. How well, too, an avenue of standard perpetual roses harmonizes with the line of a feathery asparagus-bed ! How little is there to displease in a rectangular strawberry-ground inclosed in a frame-work of brilliant low-growing flowers, witf c 18 THE FLOWEB GABDEN. an outer fillet of box, having openings left, like the gates of a Roman camp, for the approach of the work- men and the fruit-gatherers! What pleasant strolls may be taken in a wilderness of apple, bullace, cherry, plum, filbert, and medlar trees, with an underwood of periwinkles great and small, honesty, and primroses, and with one path at least skirting the edge of the fish- pond, from which a pike for dinner may always be had! His visitors enjoy the combination as much as himself. He asks a city friend which he will have put into his carriage—a basket of flowers, or a hamper of vegeta- bles ;—and the answer is, " Both !" But, after all, this form of gardening is more practicable at the country par- sonage, the wealthy farmhouse, and the mansions of our minor aristocracy, than at the villa proper. Nor can it be called a style devoid of design and principle ; for it is eminently the utilitarian and experimental style of gardening. A very eligible garden for English villas is the winter garden, or garden of evergreens, with a large proportion of grassy slopes and lawns. It by no means excludes gay flowers in summer; but they must be such as either entirely disappear in winter, or mark their positions by tufts of green leaves. Standard and pillar roses can, therefore, be but sparingly admitted; whilst hollyhocks, pseonies, dahlias, bulbous flowers, and the whole legion of annuals, must be pressed into the service, without the least scruple of overtaxing their powers. Very telling winter clumps may be made of brilliant-berried shrubs, —pyracanthus, snowberry, the wild Gruelder rose, the barberries evergreen and deciduous, the spindle tree, the mountain ash, and the yew. A sufficiency of scar- let or fancy* geraniums and verbenas may often be nursed in the house, on window-sills, to supply a few beds on the lawn, and to take the place of the early spring bulbs. Still, the show from November to March is the aain point to be attended to. There may be chrysanthe- * See "Fancy Geraniums ; a Practical Treatise" (3d.), by ThornhiU and Dickson, Nurserymen, Bristol. VILLA GARDENS. 19 mums, and common pink and crimson China roses, in beds, and isolated plants of the Double-blossomed Furze and the Dwarf Almond. To fringe the belts or clumps of laurel and laurestinus, you may have Colt's-foot, the scentless-white and the heliotrope-scented, and the pink buds of that little bright-blue flower, which is often mis- called Forget-me-not. Ilexes, and, near the sea, even hoary cork-trees may be grown in England. The good old varieties of Holly ought to be held in reverential esteem. On the arbutus, fruit, flowers, and foliage, all court approval at once; rosemary and southernwood will glitter with the dew of a wintry forenoon, at the back of a mass of the white Christmas rose and the green- flowered hellebore, fringed irregularly with the dwarf golden blossoms of the Winter Aconite. As the season advances, a bed of Erica camea will be thickly covered with rosy blossoms; and then will follow Snowdrops, Hepaticas, Yan Thol Tulips, Hyacinths, Vernal Squills, and a host of other pretty things. Primroses make a lively bed in spring; in many woods, on a moory black soil, the self-sown primroses will sport into a great variety of colour; hardly two are to be found alike. They pass from bright sulphur, through sad-coloured neutral tints, to orange, lilac, and vivid crimson. It is easy to have a bed filled with the proper soil, to search for or procure specimens, and transfer them to their final site. The mixture of a few choice plants from cottage gardens, adds brilliancy by their more decided hues; but the best effect is obtained when the primroses are taken quite at random. Patches of Pulmonaria, or Lungwort, with leaves of mottled green, and flowers changing from pink to blue, are not to be despised in a spring garden ; nor are the single blue.Russian and double pink Neapolitan Violets, the Wood-laurel, the Pyrus Japonica, and Wall- flowers, double and single, yellow and brown. Something actual may be thus accomplished to elicit a smile from the grimmest of the seasons. Country-houses have sometimes damp, shady courts and nooks., intermediate out-door dens between the back- c 2 20 THE FLOWER GARDEN. yard and the garden, which puzzle the owner what to do with them. They are too much in everyday sight, aa well as too damp to hold either firewood or tools, or domestic animals,—and to what other purpose to turn them, he cannot tell. Such a corner will often make a capital fernery, where a curious, beautiful, and myste- rious Natural Family of Plants may he cultivated. The British ferns alone will furnish a number of handsome hardy species,—though all British ferns are not hardy. 1'ersons inclined to adopt the suggestion, will be aided by the study of " Sowerby's Ferns," or the magnificent " Ferns of G-reat Britain, Nature-printed, Life-size." " Lowe's History of Ferns, British and Exotic," is also in the course of publication. An essential convenience is thus pointed out in Paul's clever " Hand-Book of Villa Gardening:"—"Much of the comfort and enjoyment in a garden depends on the state of the walks. Their formation may appear a simple matter, but it is one that requires attention. In wet and retentive soils, the earth should be removed to the depth of a foot or so, and a foundation laid of broken bricks, rubble, or coarse gravel; over these successive coats of finer gravel may be laid, keeping the centre of the walk slightly raised, and contriving a fall when possible, that the effects of a heavy shower may the more speedily pass away. It is very pleasant to be able to traverse the prin- cipal walks of a garden with comfort five minutes after a spring shower, and there is no reason why this should not be done, if they are properly contrived." Country Gardens, or those adjoining the country seats of wealthy families, are often on a magnificent and even a royal scale. In British gardens of this class, the acme of horticultural perfection is attained. Their manage- ment is intrusted to able and experienced persons, who have no need of admonition from a book like this; on the contrary, it is from their practised intelligence that its writer is too happy to learn. "Without further preface, therefore, a summary shall be given of Bulbous Flowers, Tuberous and Ehizomatous Flowers, Herbaceous Flowers, BULBOUS ELOWER8. 21 Shrubby and Sub-shrubby Flowers, Annuals, and Flower- ing Trees. In addition to the necessaries required for Kitchen Garden use, the florist must have a stock of various soils, in assortments, as leaf-mould, heath-mould, silver-sand, hazel-loam, the materials of old cucumber- beds; besides a hotbed in spring, cool frames, and a small greenhouse, if possible ; a cellar for roots and plants in winter, a shed in which to pot plants and keep seeds and bulbs, plenty of flowerpots for the rearing of bedding plants and cuttings, shallow pans and boxes for raising seedlings, stakes (of wood, not iron) to support Dahlias and Standard Koses, and, whatever else may be added to the list, a small library of the best works on Horti- culture. BULBOUS FLOWERS. A bulb is a very complete and simple form of vege- table existence. To the question, " "What, amongst plants, constitutes an individual?" the most generally received answer is, " A bud is an individualso that an oak-tree is a collection of individuals, something as cer- tain corals are a collection of polypes. Now, a bulb is a bud on a larger scale. The buds that are formed and drop off from the junction of the leaf and the stem in certain lilies, are miniature bulbs. Bulbs enjoy the advantage of being more independent of a fixed residence in the soil than many other plants. During their period of rest, they may be kept out of the ground, be made the subject of merchandise, and be transported to very considerable distances. Meanwhile their vitality is still in full force, and important changes, such as the for- mation of the future blossom, is going on within them. In due time, they again require the nutriment supplied by the rains and the earth ; just as an animal that has lain torpid all winter, seeks his food on awakening in tne spring. The capability of propagation by offsets is another point of interest belonging to bulbs. Young progeny, exactly resembling the parent plant, are thus produced with certainty. Bulbs often are the subjects 22 THE FLOWEB GABDEN. of the first attempts at horticulture by juvenile gar- deners; and are occasionally the only means by which city residents can gratify their taste for growing flowers. By far the great majority of bulbs produce exceedingly handsome blossoms, often odoriferous and even highly- scented. As a general rule, too, they are early rather than late in their season of flowering, and readily sus- ceptible of forcing by artificial heat. They are well adapted for pot culture, for at least one season; the next, they may be returned to the open ground, and replaced by others to succeed them in the greenhouse or the parlour window. Bulbs produce annually only a limited number of leaves ; if these are destroyed, they are not reproduced, as is the case with most trees, shrubs, and herbaceous plants. Consequently, the leaves of bulbs must be carefully protected and preserved during the whole period of their growth, both before flowering and after; otherwise, the plant will suffer from the failure of those functions which all leaves perform. Bulbs are solid, like the tulip; coated, like the hyacinth and the onion; and scaly, like the white and the orange lily. For convenience, bulbous flowers are here arranged in alpha- betical order, which will be adhered to for the plants in other sections. Agapanthus umbellatus or umbelliferus.—A striking plant, which is too much confined to the greenhouse, inasmuch as the lovely blue of its handsome head of flowers only attains its fulness in the open air. The Agapanthus is only half-hardy in England ; and though it may be permitted to remain throughout the winter in the open ground, under a covering of litter or leaves, it must always be at a risk. It is safer to keep the bulbs in pots (which must be large) in good, light, rich soil. At the beginning of June, these pots may be sunk in a bed or along a border, being liberally supplied with water in hot dry weather. "Where there is a good stock of bulbs in hand, half may be ventured in the garden, and half retained in pots, to be removed into a cold frame for the winter. Flowering commences in July, and con- BULBOUS FLOWERS. 23 tinues during the summer if the plants are indulged with plenty of water, of which they are greedy at that time. Propagate by division of the bulb, planting the offset immediately. Seedlings (to be sown on peat-mould) will not come into a flowering state before their fourth year at soonest. Damp is the great enemy of the Agapanthus during its dormant period. Plants, therefore, to remain out the winter must have a well-drained situation. Amaryllis.—A showy genus, belonging rather to the greenhouse than the garden. They require a strict observance of the periods of growth and rest, and care- ful attention to the health of. their foliage. While dormant, moisture is fatal to them ; at the same time, in our latitude, a mild insular climate suits them best. The A. belladonna is greatly admired for its large pink sweet- scented flowers, which appear from August to October. A difficulty is, that it succeeds better- in a border than confined in a pot, and that the leaves do not appear till after the flowers, and are liable to destruction by early frosts in any but the most favoured spots, such as South Devon and the Channel Islands. The bulbs of this species are not fond of being disturbed too often. Once every three or four years is quite enough for the sepa- ration of the bulbs and the renewing of the mould. Plant in light soil containing a few calcareous ingredients, at the depth of four or five inches. Thorough drainage, and covering with mats or sashes at the approach of any- thing like severe weather, are indispensable. ColcMcum autumnale—Meadow Saffron, or Autumnal Crocus; in French, Tue-chien, or kill-dog.—A native plant found abundantly in many moist pastures on heavy land, but of sufficient curiosity and beauty to be admitted as an ornamental bulb. The peach-blossom tinted flowers, resembling the crocus in shape, appear in autumn; but they may really be considered as very early, forestalling the spring, instead of late, for they are duly followed by the leaves and the seed-vessel, which rise with the approach of genial weather. Indeed, so precocious are the flowers, that they appear before the 2\ THE FLOWER 0AEDE5. bulb has quitted its dormant state, as far as the emission of roots is concerned. Thus, the Colchicum will send forth its succession of blooms, while lying in a basket, on a window-sill, or in a China dish, without the contact of a particle of earth, to the great astonishment of the inexperienced. When the flowering is over it must be planted. An objection to it is, that its foliage is coarse and cumbrous in proportion to the amount of bloom displayed; but this may be remedied by making the bulbs leaf in a reserved ground, to bloom where wanted. Some use them as an edging. There is a double variety. The plant must be regarded as poisonous, though it fur- nishes a medicine of questionable value. Quite hardy ; not nice about soil, but preferring moisture. Crocus.—The welcome harbinger of returning sun- shine and cheerfulness; although one species, C. satirus, or saffron, flowers in the autumn, and is cultivated for culinary and medicinal purposes rather than as a garden plant. The genus is large; a few species only are desir- able for the parterre, the Alpine crocuses having mostly insignificant flowers, although interesting in other respects. The yellow crocus, Q. luteus, is a general favourite; but requires a bright sunny day for its perfect expansion. The Cloth of Gold, C. Susianus, which has been put forward to rival it, is far inferior. C. vermis includes many shades between lilac and white. Crocuses are employed either as an edging, in separate tufts along the border, or to form geometrical patterns, and even coats of arms, in combination with hepaticas, snow- drops, bands of gravel, chalk, small coal &c. &c., on a smooth grass-plat. Such devices may be made to accord well with the formal and architectural style of garden- ing ; but their effect is scarcely appreciated on the level ground. It must be seen from a first or second-floor window. In landscape-gardening, C. vernus may be employed as a charming decorative adjunct if profusely and irregularly planted beneath clumps of tall trees, per- haps in combination with snowdrops and winter aconite, in such a way as to imitate a particoloured carpet BULBOUS FLOWERS. 25 spread by the hand of Nature herself. In parterres, the species are better kept separate; that is, at least in separate patches or rows, because they do not all flower exactly at the same time. Thus, the bright yellow blooms before the white and the purple ; and if their combined effect is counted upon, disappointment will mostly onsue. Crocuses, in general, like a light, moist soil. Plant them in September, at the depth of from three to four inches, and take them up for division and transplantation every fourth summer at longest, after the leaves are completely withered. The reason is, not only that by multiplication of offsets they become too crowded to bloom well, but that every year new corms (as these solid bulbs are called) are formed above the old ones, and in course of time rise to the very surface of the ground, the inconvenience of which in a garden is obvious. In a state of nature it is otherwise. In the Alps, wild crocuses are abundant in swampy hollows into which the brooklets, caused by the melting snows, bring with them a small but perceptible deposit of mud. This thin layer is, of course, annually repeated, and a stationary bulb would in a few years be buried beyond the power of vegetation. It is, perhaps, not too much an indulgence of fancy to believe that the upward pro- gress of the corms is an adaptation designed to enable them to keep pace with the gradual elevation of the soil in which they are rooted. Although several species seed freely, the usual mode of propagation is by offsets. After flowering, be careful to leave the foliage perfectly uninjured until the full period of its natural decay. To avoid the inevitable incumbrance of these leaves in small gardens, it is not a bad plan to form beds or baskets of crocuses in plunged pots, which may be removed to give place to other flowers. The same mode of shifting and succession is applicable to many other bulbs, and only requires a little industry to carry out. .Crown Imperial —Fritillaria Imperialis.—A coarse, though bold and showy flower, welcome in April for its erect stem, a yard or more high, and the decided charac- 26 THE ELOWER GARDEN. ter of its foliage, in spite of the offensive fox-like smeR, which it exhales in sufficient force to justify its banish- ment to the most distant part of*the parterre, or even to the shrubbery. The colour of its flowers varies from a light sulphur-yellow to a deep orange-red. Such varie- ties are obtained from seed sown as soon as ripe. The Dutch or large-belled crown imperial, JF. maxima, de- serves special notice on account of its height, and for the number, size, and beauty of its flowers. Like other fritillarias, the crown imperial thrives best in a light, well-drained soil, containing a slight admixture of chalk. Protect in early spring from snails and slugs. Every third or fourth year, when the bulbs are too crowded, take them up for division at the end of June. Eeplant, at no long interval, at the depth of eight or ten inches ; immediately is better, if you wish for flowers the follow- ing spring. Daffodil—Narcissus pseudo-narcissus—" which comes before the swallow dares, and meets the winds of March with beauty," has several double-flowered varieties; but perhaps the most pleasing and elegant of all is the ori- ginal wild flower which grows in humid pastures, from which it well deserves promotion to the garden. All the care the daffodil requires is to be taken up at intervals of several years, and to be protected from the ravages of ignorant jobbing-gardeners who, for neatness' sake, as they call it, will cut off the rank green leaves after the plant has done flowering. Neatness, in mode- ration, is a virtue. In this case, the price at which it is purchased is the absence of flowers the following spring. In the outskirts of London there are innumerable tufts of daffodils which year after year produce nothing but leaves. Dog's-tooth Violet—Drythronium dens-canis—is not a violet at all, though it is an exceedingly pretty little plant, which in addition to its pinkish flowers, has remarkably handsome mottled leaves. Although of quite as easy culture as other spring bulbs, it is not so abundantly met with as its merits would seem to imply, BULBOUS FLOWERS. 27 probably on account of its not being particularly prolific of offsets. This graceful flower, a native of the Alps, has the divisions of its corolla turned up like those of the cyclamens. The tint varies from white to pinky- purple. Prefers light soil. The American species, JE. Americamm, has yellow flowers, and requires the same culture, i. e., to be taken up every two or three years. It has a tendency to run to offsets instead of flowers, which is best obviated by planting in light peat soil, such as would be used for heaths and rhodo- dendrons. Fritillary—Fritillaria meleagris.—Chequered Lily or Chess-board Flower,—is a native, hardy, and early-flower- ing plant, whose grass-like leaves and pendulous flowers render it a general favourite. In tint, it varies consider- ably, from greenish white to dark dull purple. In well- drained soil, the roots may remain for a succession of years without removal or protection. The Persian Fritillary, F. Fersica, a larger species, is more delicate, requires a lighter soil, and the shelter of a cold frame or greenhouse in winter. Garlie.—Several species of Allium are grown as border flowers; A. Moly, with golden-yellow flowers, of which there is a white variety, being the most generally culti- vated. There are also white and pink-flowering species. One parodoxical Garlic, A. fragrans or odorum, is agree- ably scented. They are showy, increase rapidly by bulb, prefer a warm dry light soil, and require no farther care than separation every second or third year. Their generally offensive odour would seem to render them unfit for the flower-garden, whilst their gay appearance suggests their employment in tricks on inexperienced admirers of flowers. A. Moly, however, does not prove disagreeable in large bouquets which are only to be looked at without being handled. Gladiolus—Corn Flag.—The wild European species, G. communis, is perfectly hardy in England, and delights the eye in summer by its tapering spikes of bright red flowers. The bulbs are corms like those of the crocus, 28 THE FLOWER QAM)EH. and only require separation and replanting at intervals of several seasons. Of late years, several foreign and highly ornamental species of Gladioli have been introduced, and from these not a few showy hybrids have been raised. They are all more or less tender, safest under pot culture or in raised beds covered with shutters or sashes in win- ter, requiring light soil and the complete absence of moisture during their period of rest. If ventured out in the open ground, they must have a well-drained spot, and be covered in winter with six inches of dry litter, sawdust, or withered leaves. Established thus, they bloom magnificently; but there is always the danger that some unusually severe frost or extraordinary continuance of cold and wet may destroy the whole collection. Deservedly admired species are G. cardinalis, psittacinus, grandijlorus, gandavensis, blandus, versicolor, ColviUii, and ring ens, besides varieties and hybrids too numerous to specify here. Guernsey IAly—Nerine Sarniensis.—A native of Japan. It is an old story that a ship homeward bound from thence was wrecked on the Guernsey coast, where the Asiatic bulbs have ever since thriven so well as to be objects of export. The plant produces in autumn a head of eight or ten bright red flowers. After- wards, the bulbs are mostly thrown away, from the diffi- culty of getting them to bloom afterwards, or even to survive. The care and appliances they would require to perfect their foliage are mostly bestowed on more valuable plants. Indeed, they are hardly worth the trouble they give. They are pretty, and that is all. Plant the bulbs, as soon as they arrive, in pots of sandy loam, in the sun- niest part of the greenhouse. The Hyacinth—Hyacinthus orientalis.—There are three modes of growing hyacinths; in glasses, in pots, and in beds. The former may be speedily dismissed; for the powerful and headache-causing odour of the flowers renders them unsuitable for living rooms, except in small numbers in vast apartments. Early hyacinths are more agreeable as decorations for the entrance-hall, BTJLBOTJS FLOWERS. 29 the glazed corridor, the balcony, the greenhouse, or the saloon and occasional reception-room. The only satis- faction to be derived from bulbs in glasses is the power of beholding the roots, and of watching their descent in the water. Otherwise, the plant, as it grows, becomes a wretched unsteady thing, even when supported by wires, for want of its natural foot-hold in the soil; it is exhausted and nearly worthless for the following season ; and the practice might be reprehended as a flagrant case of cruelty to flowers, if such an offence were recognised by society. Forced hyacinths, in pots, are deservedly general favourites; and the more gently they are forced, the more slowly they are brought forward, if only by the temperature of an ordinary sitting-room and full exposure to the sunshine in the window, the better-grown will be the specimens. This, too, will allow of the pleasure of noting the development of the rising flower-stem. If the perfected bloom exhales too oppressive a perfume, it can then be removed to ornament a cooler part of the house, which will protract the duration of its beauty. The hyacinth strikes its roots vertically downward to a depth which is considerable in proportion to the diameter of the bulb and which is greater than the height of flower-pots usually allowed to roots of that size. The idea therefore suggested itself to manufacture tall cylin- drical pots, of narrow diameter, expressly for growing this flower ; and lovers of hyacinths will do well to make use of them. In an ordinary garden-pot of sufficient depth (not less than ten or eleven inches), a clump or knot of hyacinths of different colours may be grown. Three is a good number to constitute these bouquets, whether in pots or in the open border ; and the permu- tations and combinations that may be worked out in this way with the different colours of white, blush, pink, pale yellow, red, porcelain-blue, deep blue, violet, and dark purple, afford a varied scope for the amateur's taste to exercise itself. One point must not be forgotten in respect to hyacinths; some of the single varieties are even in higher esteem than the double; moreover, they 30 THE ELOWEB GAEDEN. come earlier into bloom. Therefore, to produce a good effect, the knots should consist of all single or all double flowers, that the members of the group may bloom simul- taneously. Even in beds, it is strongly advisable to keep the double and single flowers separate. Eor a general collection, it is better to have two beds than one; other- wise, some specimens will be beginning to fade before others have attained their beauty. It is usual to begin hyacinth-growing by the purchase of imported Dutch bulbs in September. After a collec- tion is formed, it will be found necessary to draft in annual reinforcements from abroad, because certain varieties and colours multiply much more rapidly by off- sets than others; so that, in a year or two, the amateur will find himself over-stocked with one kind, while others run short. The former he may give away, or turn out into the open border; for the latter he had better apply, and that in good time, to the nurserymen who import. Respectable dealers may be depended on to furnish a good article of genuine Dutch origin. The soil for hyacinths is a compost, prepared before- hand, consisting of light loam, leaf-mould, river-sand, and well-rotted dung, in about equal proportions. It does no harm if the sand rather predominates. Put two or three crocks at the bottom of the pot, fill it neatly full with the soil which has already been well incorporated ; give the pot two or three -gentle taps on the ground to settle its contents, place the bulb in the middle, press it down a little with the fingers, and then add just so much compost, that one third of the bulb shall remain un- covered. Not only do the hyacinths do better in pots when the upper part of the bulb is thus left exposed, but the basis and origin of the flower left visible becomes itself an ornament, having its own distinctive complexion and features visible to the observant eye. It is said that one of the great Dutch growers could recognise two thousand varieties of hyacinth by the bulb. After potting, give a good watering, and let them stand under some shed or other sheltered place for three or four days. Small BULBOUS ELOWEES. 31 growers may then remove them to the cellar or the cold frame (covered with matting), to remain there till the central bud has started from a quarter to half an inch, when they must all be exposed to light and increased warmth. Before that state of advancement, small batches of half a dozen or more, may be brought forward to be hastened in the hotbed,• or the parlour window, as required, in succession. Large growers, such as Messrs. Henderson, of the Wellington Nursery, St. John's Wood, place their potted and watered hyacinths in beds five feet wide, and throw old tan over them, to the depth of five or six inches ; and this is allowed to remain until the pots are quite full of roots, and the tops have made a growth of one or two inches. Sand, instead of spent tan, has been occasionally employed for the same pur- pose, and is a convenient substitute in many localities. They are then carefully looked over, and any that are not sufficiently rooted are replunged. Great care should be taken that they are not left in the tan, or sand, too long; if they remain there till the leaves begin to open, the flower is very likely to be injured. Such as are well rooted are placed in a cold frame, where they can be securely protected from frost, and have plenty of air at every opportunity. If flowers are wanted early in the season, a hotbed is prepared with dung that has been well worked previous to making up the bed. As soon as ' the hotbed is sufficiently sweetened, a few pots are put into it every week, to keep up a succession from Christ- mas till March, at which time the others will be coming on quite fast enough in the cold frame. Although most hyacinths succeed very well without artificial heat, manj are greatly improved by it. Indeed, all that do no\. bloom kindly in the cold frame will be benefited by applying dung-heat. The bulbs that are kept in the cold frame all the winter from the time they were taken out of the tan are generally in finest bloom from the middle of March till the second week in April. After that, they begin to decline. Hyacinth-beds should not be more than five feet wide, 312 THE FLOWEE GAEDETT. for the convenience of reaching as far as the middle, though they may be any size less, according to taste. The length, also, is arbitrary; the owner of a large col- lection of bulbs will judge for himself whether the most striking effect will be obtained by a single long bed, or two or three short ones side by side. When the ground is marked out, excavate the soil to the depth of four feet, if it is naturally cold and clayey, and throw in a bottom stratum of shingle six inches thick, for drainage. On light soils, three feet is sufficient, and the shingle may be omitted. Fill with compost the same as for pot cul- ture, till it is two or three inches above the level of the earth. On the surface of this, place the bulbs, in quin- cunx order, in rows six inches apart, six inches from plant to plant, and cover them with an additional three inches of compost, which may contain a larger proportion of silver sand than the bed itself. In this case, it would be dangerous to allow the upper portion of the bulb to be exposed to the air, unless the bed were made in a conservatory, under glass, or even in a good-sized oblong cucumber frame, which, with a little contrivance and taste may be made to serve as a temporary hyacinth-house, ' and contain a pleasing collection of choice specimens. A bed made as directed above, will, even after settling, be raised two or three inches, and will be kept neat by some provisional edging of wood, iron, or earthenware. Box is not advisable, as harbouring slugs. Another mode: instead of excavating the soil to re- ceive the compost, simply break it up well to the depth of a foot or eighteen inches, and thereon raise a mound of compost of the inquired length and breadth two feet high, keeping it together by walls of thick green turf well flattened and beaten together by the spade, and fastened, if need be, with pegs of osier. On the top of this mound plant your hyacinths. Advantages are, that the flowers are brought nearer the admirer's eye, as if they stood on a low table, and that the cultivator is spared much painful stooping when he plants and takes up the bulbs and ties the top heavy flower-stems to sup- BULBOUS FLOWEItS. 33 porting sticks. On the other hand, a mound-bed requires frequent and regular watering; is more exposed to gusts of wind, and therefore stands in greater need of the protection of an awning during the period of flowering; and is also more liable to injury from frosts of unusual severity. Still, this method of cultivation introduces a pleasing change to the every-day routine of flower-beds on the ground level. The arrangement of the Colours of the respective bulbs admits of the exercise of individual tastes. A common plan is to contrast the tints of every two adjacent blooms; never to let blue stand close to blue, nor red be next- door neighbour to red. Others make each of their four or five rows to consist of various shades of the same colour. Mere chance-medley planting, taking the bulbs at hazard as they come to hand in the basket, will often, as in the kaleidescope, lead to brilliant combinations. A rich effect is obtained by following the order of the pris- matic spectrum ; i.e. let all the flowers at one end be dark purples and violets, and at the other dark reds. Let the purples be followed by blues and light porcelains, till you come to whites. Next the whites, should follow the yellows ; after them pinks, then full reds, and then dark crimson. Were there such things as green-flowered hyacinths, they would come between the yellow and the blue, displacing the white, which might be divided to form a bright termination at each end of the bed. When the flowering is over, withhold water, and re- move the awning, if one has been used. The leaves have now to fulfil their office, and must be aided by plenty of air and light. The single hyacinths will probably form seed-vessels. If these are not required for the interesting though patient task of raising varieties from seed, or if it be feared that they will exhaust the bulb too much, do not cut off the flower-stem,—an operation which might cause the bulbs to rot,—but pick off the berries one by one, leaving the stem standing. When the leaves are brown and dry, the bulbs may be taken up ; the soil, ^«d. fibres, &c., removed ; and then the bulbs should be D 34 THE FLOWEB GABHEH. laid with the offsets m shallow boxes, divided into com- partments, labelled with the names, or numbered accord- ing to th? grower's private catalogue. Baskets are even better than boxes, but they occupy more room, as their division into separate compartments is not so easy. They should be looked at at least once a fortnight, to cut out or reject any rotten bulbs, or rotting spots. _ As the time for re-planning advances, many offsets will come away easily, which would have been difficult to separate at an earlier period. A dry airy shelf is a good place for keeping them. Pot-grown bulbs must be subjected to the same treatment. It is not advisable to grow the same bulbs in pots two successive years; but very good blooms may be obtained from bulbs grown in pots and beds every alternate year. .For exhibition or extra-fine specimens, it is usual to rely most on imported roots. The offsets must be planted in a bed by themselves, a little earlier and in somewhat ricuor soil than the full- grown bulbs. In one, two, or three years, according to their size, they will take rank with adult plants. For hyacinths in the open border, taking up every second or third year is sufficient. For seedlings, when the capsule turns yellow and splits, the seed is ripe. Sow immediately broadcast on a bed of light rich mould, into which none but thoroughly rotted manure is admitted, Over the seeds sift an inch thick of light soil. Protect from scorching sunshine and drenching rains; ami in winter, eover with mats during frosty weather. When the young leaves wither, weed and gently scratch the surface of the soil, and sift over it another inch of light rich soil. Pursue the same treatment the second season. The third sun1- mer, take up the bulbs and replant them as if they were offsets or flowering bulbs. The fourth year, they generally bloom, and the fancier may look out for a prize or two. Good Single Hyacinths.— Whites: # Voltaire, Emicus, Anna Maria, Grand Vainqueur, Moliere, Beine Blanche, Hereule, Helene, Themistocle, Virgo, Mercure. Tel- lows: *Prince of Orange, Heroine, Eoi des Pays Bas, Alida Jacoba, Anne Caroline. Juniter, *La Pluie d'Or. BULBOUS PLOWERS. 35 Beds: Mars, Van Speyk, *Eelicitas, #L'Ami du Coeur, Herstelde Yreede, Amphion, Sappho, Cochenille. Blues: # Grande Yidette, Emicans, *Nimrod, #Yulcan, Bobinson, *Emilius, La plus Noire, Grand Lilac, Bolivar. Good Double Hyacinths.— Whites: #Yestal, Sphsera Mundi, Anna Maria, Gloria Elorum, Mathilda, ^Triumph Blandina, #Minerva, Hermann Lange, Montesquieu, Sultan Achmet. Yellows: #Ophir, Croesus, Louis d'Or, Bouquet d'Orange, Jaune supreme, L'Or vegetale, Due deBerri d'Or. Beds: Boerhaave, Bouquet tendre; Elos sanguineus, Gloria Solis, Bex rubrorum, *Grootvoorst, Wellington, ^Waterloo, Panorama, Madame Zootmann, Honneur d'Amsterdam. Blues: Othello, *Pasquin, Boi des Pays Bas, * Globe celeste, Globe terrestre, *Noir veritable, Bonaparte, Alamode, Laurens Koster.—A very small collection should include those marked with the asterisk. Hyacinth;, Grape—H. Muscari, or Muscari moschatum —bears a small spike of almost globular dull-violet flowers. Perfectly hardy, and may be left to take care of itself; but hardly worth admittance into the flower- garden. Hyacinth, Monstrous—Muscari monstrosum—does not deserve the honour of a specific name, being sterile, and only capable of propagation by offsets. Instead of a spike of flowers, it puts forth something like a frizzled wig in disorder, of a dull rosy-purple tint. Yoid of all symmetry and purpose, it can find favour with few but lovers of abortions and curiosities. Iris.—A large genus, comprising bulbous, tuberous, and fibrous rooted species. Of the bulbous kinds, ac- knowledged favourites are, the Persian iris, I Bersica, a low plant, which in March or April sends up, on a stem shorter than the leaves, a single, very powerfully sweet- scented flower, washed with blue on a light ground. Does better in a pot under a frame, in the same compost as is used for hyacinths, than in the open ground. Is propagated with difficulty either from seeds or offsets, but the bulbs may be annually obtained of the nursery- 86 THE FLOWER OA.RDEIT. men who import Dutch roots, and may be forced if required, like hyacinths. The Scorpion Iris, I. alata, a native of North Africa, produces in early spring two or three sweet-scented bright blue flowers on a very short stem. A curious and striking plant requiring the same culture as Cape bulbs (see Ixia). Two other bulbous species, I. xiphium and I. xiphioides, are by many re- garded only as varieties of each other. The former is known as the Spanish iris, of a great diversity of tints; the latter as the Spanish, Portuguese, and English iris, in still greater variety, sufficient to form a handsome collection and produce a brilliant effect when grown together in a bed. They flower towards the end of June, and are often thought to deserve an awning, like tulips and other choice florists' flowers, to perfect their bloom and prolong its duration. In other respects, too, bulbous irises must have a similar treatment; namely, as soon as their foliage is withered, they must be taken up, have their offsets removed when sufficiently dry, and be replanted in October, or better in September. A light sandy soil agrees with them best. Seedlings, which will generally produce varieties, may be obtained as directed for hyacinths. Six or seven inches every way is a suffi- cient distance for the adult bulbs in a bed. The Spanish iris, though quite hardy as a border flower, must be taken up at least every third year, in August, to be divided and replanted in September. If kept out of the ground much later, the blooms for the following season will fail. The reason which requires them to be taken up, is that new bulbs are annually formed beneath the old ones, and would finally burrow so deep as to perish. The plant, therefore, in a wild state, is suited for the shoulders of steep hills, where a slight portion of the surface soil is carried down to the valley every year. Ixia.—A lovely genus, delicate and brilliant, of low stature and slender growth. Unfortunately for us, their native home is a southern region, warm and dry, in comparison with which their English exile is damp' and chilly. In the greenhouse, especially on a shelf neajp BULBOUS BLOWERS. 37 the glass, Ixias thrive at their ease ; in the garden, they can only be grown in favoured spots by fanciers who wiii bestow on them all the care and attention exacted by tender pets. Devoted cultivators of Cape bulbs will study Monographs, Treatises, and Transactions, too volu- minous to be comprised in the present syllabus. All that there is room to state here is, that their periods of growth and rest must be carefully alternated and attended to; that a wet sub-soil below and frost and heavy rain above are fatal; that their general soil is a mixture of peat-earth, leaf- mould, and light sandy loam, slightly enriched with the thoroughly-rotted dung of an old hotbed; and that, if grown in the open border, their bed must be an excava- tion properly filled, or better a raised pit built with walls of brick or turf, screened by a south wall, filled with light compost, and capable of being protected by lights or shutters, occasionally by both. "Various other expe- dients may be tried, such as a stratum of dead leaves in winter, oiled canvass coverings, thatchings with straw, &c., if the roots be ventured out of doors ; but the truth is, that, here, their proper place is under glass, in pots with a stratum of small shingle at the bottom, in which, according to size, more than a single bulb may be planted. Indeed, the bulbs are mostly so small that a great many of them would be lost bj^out-door culture in beds. Their treatment is much the same as that of the African gladioli. October is the time for planting.^ The bulbs may remain two years without shifting; but in that case, as soon as the bloom is faded, the pots must be kept in a dry situation. Ixias are propagated from offsets. Seedling plants often furnish pretty varieties, which generally flower the third year. Ixia bulbocodium is the only European species. The others are numerous and in great diversities of colour ; I. crocata, the orange ixia, is one of the commonest; I polystachya is a favourite with the Dutch. Persons desirous of growing ixias and the families of plants related to them, will gain prac- tical information by visiting the collections and study- ing the lists of nurserymen. 38 THE FLOWER GARDEN. Jonquil—Narcissus jonquilla.—So called because its leaves resemble those of a rush, in Latin juncus, in French jonc. The jonquil is a favourite pot-plant for spring forcing, partly from the good grace with which it submits to such treatment, but mainly for its slender foliage and its bright-yellow odoriferous flowers, whose perfume, however, is even too penetrating for many persons to bear in a room. The jonquil, like most of the other narcissi, is a native of low meadow-lands, and likes an abundant supply of water during its growth and flowering. Plant in September in any good garden soil. In the open border, take up the bulbs every two or three years; but double jonquils should be taken up every year, to prevent their degenerating. Be as scru- pulous with them as with daffodils and crocuses, never to let the leaves be cut off because the gardener thinks it makes them look smarter, till they have perfectly fulfilled their office of ripening and returning the sap to the root. Single jonquils will furnish seed, but the quickest way of propagation is by offsets. Importers of Dutch roots will supply you with a stock at a moderate price, which, if you take care of them, will last you your life. Lily—Liliuvi.—A large genus, of great beauty. The common "White Lily, L. candidum, has been grown in gardens from time immemorial; it has blotched-leaved and striped-leaved varieties. The Orange Lily, L. cro- ceum, a native of Austria, may be found in almost every cottage plot of flowers, where it amuses the children by smearing their noses, when they go to smell of it, with its yellow pollen. The Tiger Lily, L. tigrinum, from China, where its bulbs are eaten, has handsome orange- red flowers speckled with black, and is remarkable, though not singular, on account of the numerous little bulbs which are produced along the stem at the foot of each leaf. The Martagon, or Turk's-cap Lily, L. martagon, from the Alps, has an unpleasant smell emitted by its numerous dull purple flowers, spotted with small black dots; but its colour varies. The Scarlet Turk's-cap, L, calcedonicum, is handsomer; while the Yellow Turk's-cap, BULBOUS PLOWEBS. 39 L. Tyrenaictm, offers the curious contrast of yellow petals and scarlet anthers. The Canada Lily, L. Canadense, bears numerous yellow flowers. All these are quite hardy, and suited to the open border. The Tiger Lily is most vigorous and beautiful when growing in heath- mould. Lor the others, ordinary garden soil will do. Every third or fourth year, take up the tufts of bulbs, separate and plant them at once at the depth of three or four inches. Although they will travel to a distance, if required, they will flower not so well, or not at all, next spring, if kept out of the ground too long. The Bui- biferous Lily, L. bulbiferum,, from the Alps, is also hardy, but is a less showy plant than those already mentioned. The Dwarf Lily, L. pumilum, appears to be only a variety of the common Orange Lily, is more delicate, and requires a light and sandy soil. The Pompone Lily, L. JPompo- nivm, from the Pyrenees and Siberia, the dark red divi- sions of whose corolla turn back so as to form a sort of turban, prefers light fresh soil from a pasture, a shady situation, and, like most other Alpine plants, is all the safer for protection in winter, to imitate its native shelter of snow. Species requiring a little more pains to cultivate are the Philadelphian Lily, L. JPhiladelphicum, a charming plant, about two feet high, which must be kept in a half- shady spot, potted in heath-mould, to prevent the loss of its offsets, which run underground. The Superb Lily, L. superbe, must also have heath-mould and protection in winter, although at home, in North America, the frosts are severer than with us. So it may remain, to be taken up and replanted every third or fourth year. Although thriving better for a certain amount of shade, it is apt to damp off and rot in wet situations. The Carolina Lily, L. Carolinianim, also requires heath- mould. The Kamtschatka Lily bears yellow jonquil- scented flowers, blooming in July, and, as its name indicates, is an alpine. The Monadelphian Lily, L. Mono- delphum, so styled from its stamens being united, as in the Linnean class Monadelphia, for one-third of their 40 THE FLOWER GARDEN. length, and Szowitz's Lily, often confounded with the preceding, are similar in constitution. The Isabelle Lily, L. testaceum, of a light bright brick-red or buff, of unknown origin, is as easy of cultivation as the common White and Orange Lilies. Thompson's Lily, so named by l)r. Lindley, has lilac flowers half the size of the White Lily, requires light loam, and protection from damps in winter. L. giganteum, a noble Miy, sends up a flower-stem ten feet high. The following exquisite species are more or less hardy, as far as present experience goes, in a mb?fc"Te of leaf- mould and sandy loam : The Japan Lily, L. Japonicwm (often confounded with the sweet-scented lily, L. odorum, also from Japan, a treasury of flowers which has furnished several beautiful species of lily), a superb plant, bears very large solitary and terminal white flowers slightly dashed with purple outside. The Long-flowered Lily, L. longijiorum, resembles the former, but is still hand- somer. Brown's Lily, much in the same style, and Wallick's Lily, from the north of India. Perhaps the most elegant of all is the Lance-leaved Lily, L. speciosum, or lanceolatum, of which there are several varieties, which may be classed under the heads of white and red, or L. speciosum album and L. speciosum rubrum. Plants of these may be had of respectable seedsmen and florists, such as James Carter & Co., 238, High Holborn, for from two to three shillings each. As yet, they are grown in pots, in peaty soil, and are treated as greenhouse perennials. They well repay any trouble that may be bestowed on them ; but plants from China and Japan have often proved more hardy than was expected at their first introduction. It is probable that the scaly bulbs of the whole Lily genus are edible in case of need. In rustic medicine, the pounded bulbs of the White Lily are a favourite cataplasm for burns and scalds. Narcissus.—Two species have been already noticed under their trivial names of Daffodil and Jonquil. By Narcissuses, in ordinary gardening language, are under- stood the Polyanth or Many-flowered Narcissus, N, BULBOUS BLOWERS. 41 Tazetta, and the many varieties derived from it, as florists' flowers. The rest are looked upon as mere border flowers. JV. concolor, with white blossoms, runs into numerous varieties, one of the finest of which is known as the Grand Monarque. The poetic Narcissus, JSF. poeticus, with its ring of purple encircling the centre of the flower, is not without a certain elegance. Perhaps the most prepossessing species, on account of its dwarf habit, its less powerful odour, and its graceful mien, is the pretty little Hoop-petticoat Narcissus, 2V~. bulbo• codium, which though not a rare, is far from being a vulgar flower, as it increases anything but rapidly by off- sets. Grown in pots, it well deserves a place in spring in every sunshiny parlour-window. It thrives better in warmer and drier soil than the former species. Some botanists make it a separate species, and call it Bulbo- codium vernum. Is found wild amongst the hills of Dauphiny and Provence. There is also B. tigrinum, a native of Russia. Polianth narcissuses are annually imported from Hoi- land, with tulips, hyacinths, and other Dutch bulbs. It must be owned that the varieties of narcissus, consisting merely of permutations and combinations of two colours only, yellow and white, in single and double-centred flowers, offer much less diversity than other bulbs of similar rank in the seedsman's catalogue. Still they have their steady admirers, attracted by their graceful habit, the ease with which they are forced, and even by their powerful odour, which is sufficiently oppressive to exclude them from the private apartments of many who would otherwise welcome them. Por room-decoration, scentless flowers, as the camellia, are the most advisable to employ, as far as sanitary prudence is concerned. The rose, the violet, and mignonnette are harmless ; certainly in the moderate quantity in which they commonly enter into dwelling-apartments; others, as the heliotrope and the lily of the valley, often give headache, and even nausea; while many of the liliacete, notwithstanding their beauty, notoriously exhale an insupportable efflu- 42 THE riiOVEE GAEHJJw. vium. In the saffron harvest, not only are the women who separate the pistil from the petal of the flowers, obliged to keep up a strong current of air in the room where they are at work, and are often compelled to leave their task and recover themselves in the open air from the stupifying influence of the odour given out, but even the saffron-gatherers in the field (mostly women) are attacked now and then by drowsiness followed by fainting- fits. Double sashes and glass cases, i.e. miniature close- shutting greenhouses, afford the best means of gratifying the sense of sight, in the case of strong-scented flowers, without offending the sense of smelling. Narcissuses may be bloomed, like hyacinths, in glasses; but it is not the object of the present Book to indicate the worst mode of growing flowers. In pots they may be treated exactly like hyacinths, with a still more liberal, supply of water, and in even lighter compost. It requires one kind of soil (rich and substantial) to bring the bulbs to their full strength, and another (more poor and sandy in its nature) to produce the utmost perfection of bloom. This explains why imported roots flower better than those in ordinary garden borders ; demonstrating that even in floriculture, a division of labour has its advantages. To narcissuses, as to other bulbs, the rule may be applied: " Take care of the leaves, and the flowers will take care of themselves." To return again to the instance of saf- fron: when the flowers are all gathered, and the field is green in winter with the rank long leaves, its proprietor is carefully anxious to fence out hares and rabbits (which are fond of the plant), and to prevent them from feeding on the foliage, which is of no use to its owner, because experience has told him that if that is injured, his next year's saffron will be proportionately defective. Snowdrop—Galanthus nivalis.—Although so common and easily-grown a flower, a garden without snowdrops would be sadly incomplete. There are single and double snowdrops ; the former is, to many eyes, the more grace- ful; it has also the merit of being somewhat earlier and of best deserving its Drench name, Perceneige, or Pierce- BULBOUS FLOWERS. 43 snow. Poets have made it the subject of their rhymes, sometimes with the license allowed to them; as when the Goddess of Spring, in some propitious hour, has changed an icicle into a flower:— " Its name and hue the scentless plant retains, And winter lingers in its icy veins." But the snowdrop has an agreeable though faint per- fume. Snowdrops may remain for years in the ground without being taken up, though it will be better to do so from time to time with border patches, to prevent their growing uncouth and ragged. They thrive well in somewhat moist and shady situations, such as under a clump of oaks on a lawn ; there, of course, single flowers only are appropriate, double flowers being out of place beyond the limits of the parterre. Single snowdrops are not shy in bearing seed, though they are seldom propa- gated in that way, except by the hand of nature. Both kinds increase by offsets. Plant in August or September, at the depth of two or three inches. Snowjlalce — Leucojum csstivum — Has flowers very similar to the former in general appearance, but are pro- duced, several on one flower-stem, which is taller, and with a greater proportion of foliage. Quite hardy, only requires lifting every three or four years ; but besides its more rampant growth, is of much less value than its cousin the Snowdrop, from blooming in summer, when we have so many more attractive candidates for our favour. Squill—Scilla.—A pretty genus, with what gardeners call very " neat" flowers, whose tint is mostly a pleasing, and in some a brilliant blue. The least prepossessing spe- cies, S. maritima, the Maritime Squill, makes up for its modest spike of dull-looking flowers by its medicinal virtues. Its large exposed bulbs grow abundantly on the rocks, in many parts of the Mediterranean coast. If cultivated here as a curiosity, it must have the protec- tion of a green-house in winter, and the bulb must be planted not more than one-third or one-fourth of. its 44 THE FLOWER GARBEIT. depth, in a large pot of light loam. S. Peruviana, the Peruvian Squill, is not a native of that country ; but was taken to the New "World by the Portuguese, and brought back to Europe in the seventeenth century, after be- coming naturalized on the coast of Chili and Peru. Bulb large, flowers blue (there is a white variety), best kept in a pot, in light soil, under a cold frame. S. amcsna, S. Italica, and S. eampanulata all bear flowers of various shades of blue, may be left in the ground several years, and do best in a light, dry, warm soil, with a certain amount of shade. The Two-leaved Squill, S. lifolia, the Siberian or early Squill, S. Sibirica, or precox, and S. umbellata, merit pot-culture, although they are perfectly hardy, that they may take their place amidst forced jonquils or hyacinths. The Siberian Squill, especially, is one of the prettiest emblems of spring which we have, joined to which, its dwarf and graceful stature renders it worthy of all admiration. The Wild Hyacinth of our woods is by most botanists enrolled with Squills, as S. nutans, Nod- ding Squill, though it was formerly classed as Hyacinthus non scriptus (also as Agraphis nutans), in allusion to a mythological fable which can have no place here ; nor can the plant itself claim admission into gardens. Star of Bethlehem,— Ornithogalum.—A genus very closely allied to the former. 0. umbellatum is one of the commonest. The Erench call it the Eleven-o'clock Lady, because it opens its cluster of bright white flowers an hour before noon, when the sun shines brightly, shutting them again at three. The corolla only expands under the strong stimulus of light. It is also supposed to be one of the plants mentioned in Scripture. O. pyra- middle, styled by the Erench tkj 7irgin's Spike, displays its handsome white blossoms at the end of June. O. fimbriatum, Eringed Star of Bethlehem, has white flowers striped with green. These are all of easy cul- ture, and, indeed, scarcely deserve any great pains to be taken about them, beyond lifting and separation every second or third year. There are Cape Stars of Bethle- hem, which are not safe unless treated as Ixias. BULLOUS FLOWERS. 45 Tiger Flower—Tigridia pavonia,—derives its principal charm from the ephemeral duration of its singularly- shaped and coloured blossoms, which expand and fade within a few hours. It is consequently not well adapted either for bedding or for pots, although each strong bulb will produce several blooms crowning the tuft of bright sword-shaped leaves. It is most effective in patches in a bed or border near the living-room windows, where its gaudy petals will be sure to catch the eye, and where it will escape the inglorious fate of the many flowers that are only born to blush unseen, and waste their bright- ness on the desert air. Though a native of Mexico, it may be left in the ground all the year round when and where a mild winter and a dry soil can be insured. But it is safest taken up in autumn, when the leaves are quite withered. Propagate by seeds and offsets. Tuberose—Tolianthes tuberosa. — An old favourite allowed to grow obsolete, because it gives a little trou- ble and costs a trifle of expense. It is true, also, that it belongs more to the conservatory than the flower-garden; still, a word or two shall be written to help its restora- tion to public favour, for it is now so utterly neglected that many useful plain gardeners have never seen such a thing as a tuberose. The bulbs are annually imported from Italy; it is of little use trying to do anything with them here after they have once flowered, unless as a test of horticultural skill. Plant them in large heavy pots in light, rich loam, in March, and plunge them in a hotbed. "When the central bud has started a few inches, remove them either to a warm light place in the greenhouse, or to a very sunny frame. In July, such plants as are not retained indoors, may be plunged in their pots, to flower in the open air, either in clumps, or along a border. They form an elegant avenue, alter- nated with the Pyramidal Campanula. As the flower- stems rise to from four to six feet in height, they must be supported by light straight stakes of equal length; and it is this peculiarity which gives the flower its archi~ feetural character, and usefulness in decoration. It is 46 THE FLOWEB GA.BDEF. very generally employed on the altars in Italian churches, where the perfume exhaled by its pure white flowers is said to have the same effect as mignonnette- boxes in London ; namely, the keeping of evil smells and infections at bay. Double tuberoses will be preferred as handsomer, if not more odoriferous, than single ones. "While the flower-stem is rising, the plant is greedy of heat and water; admit air also at every available oppor- tunity. Tulip.—There are several species of Tulip, all of which produce elegant flowers. The Wild Tulip, Tulipa sylvestris, bears bright yellow flowers in April or May. There is a very showy double variety, which, though not esteemed by florists, is very effective as a border flower. T. suaveolens, the sweet-scented or Van Thol Tulip, is an extremely pretty dwarf plant, with bright-red petals edged with yellow, flowering in April, and valuable for forcing, in association with other spring bulbs. It may oe left all winter in the open ground. Parrot tulips, also early, remarkably showy, and well adapted for pot- culture, are supposed varieties of T. sylvestris. The tulip about which the Dutch once went mad, the Flo- rists' Tulip, which still retains its admiring fanciers, is T. Gesneriana, or Gesner's Tulip. On the Florists' Tulip a treatise might be written which should far exceed the entire limits of the present Book. It is a special, and somewhat thorny as well as complicated branch of the grand floricultural tree. Nor are all growers agreed as to classification and manage- ment. To convey to the uninitiated some idea of the rules of art, it is worth while, transcribing from " Glenny's Properties of Flowers," the twelve points which he has laid down as indispensable for the Tulip:—" 1. The cup should form, when quite expanded, from half to a third of a hollow ball. To do this, the petals must be six in number; broad at the ends, smooth at the edges, and the divisions between the petals scarcely to show an inden- ture. 2. The three inner petals should set close to the three outer ones, and the whole should be broad enough BULBOUS ELOWEES. 47 to allow of the fullest expansion without quartering (as it is called), that is, exhibiting any vacancy between the petals. 3. The petals should be thick, smooth, and stiff, and keep their form well. 4. The ground should be clear and distinct, whether white or yellow. The least stain, even at the lower end of the petal, would render a tulip comparatively valueless. 5. Eoses, byblomens, and bizarres, are the three classes into which tulips are now divided. The first have a white ground, and crimson, or pink, or scarlet marks ; the second have white grounds, and purple, lilac, or black marks ; and the last have yellow grounds, with any coloured marks. 6. "Whatever be the disposition of colours or marks upon a tulip, all the six petals should be marked alike, and be therefore perfectly uniform. 7. The feathered flowers should have an even close feathering all round, and whether narrow or wide, light or heavy, should reach far enough round the petals to form, when they are expanded, an unbroken edging all round. 8. If the flower have any marking besides the feathering at the edge, it should be a beam, or bold mark down the centre, but not to reach the bottom, or near the bottom of the cup ; the mark or beam must be similar in all the six petals. 9. Flowers not feathered, and with flame only, must have no marks on the edges of the flower. None of the colour must break through to the edge. The colour may be disposed in any form, so that it be perfectly uniform in all the petals, and does not go too near the bottom. 10. The colour, whatever it be, must be dense and decided. Whether it be delicate and light, or bright, or dark, it must be distinct in its outline, and not shaded, or flushed, or broken. 11. The height should be eighteen to thirty- six inches; the former is right for the outside row in a bed, and the latter is right for the highest row. 12. The purity of the white, and the brightness of the yellow, should be permanent, that is to say, should stand until the petals actually fall." Exhibiting gardeners and fanciers will do well to consult the same authority for the " properties " of other Florists' Flowers. 48 THE FLOWER GARDEN. Tulip-beds are made much in the same way, and com- posed of nearly the same materials, as those for hyacinths. A trench four feet wide, or thereabouts, is dug out; a few inches' depth of shingle is laid at the bottom, to insure drainage, if the subsoil is clayey, and the rest is filled with a compost of fresh loam, leaf-mould, river sand, and the well-rotted dung of ruminant animals, when such is to be procured, all thoroughly and previously incorporated together. Much mystery has been made about special and incomparable receipts for the ingre- dients, and their proportion, in a tulip-bed; but it may bo suspected that these important formulae contain a certain amount of quackery. The soil of a tulip-bed should be renewed every year it will still serve for the culture of other flowers. The bed should be raised an inch or two above the level of the ground, and slightly raised in the middle. The beginning of October is a good time to plant. Draw parallel lines, with a cord, six inches apart, along the bed, and cross them with lines at right angles, also six inches apart. At the points where these cross, the bulbs can be gently pressed into the soil just deep enough to keep them standing upright. Some amateurs previously arrange the order in which the tulips are to be placed, so that they correspond in the bed either with a numbered plan, or with the compart- ments in the store-boxes. "When the bed is thus covered with bulbs, and it is seen that all is right, lay additional soil over them with the hands, till they are covered to the depth of from four to five inches. The earth must bo kept up at the edges of the bed either with thick turfs laid edgewise, with the grass outside, or with a border of stone or earthenware. The former, clipped close, makes a pleasing frame to the bed; the latter are less liable to harbour slugs, snails, and worms. It is better thus to heap earth over the bulbs, than to plant them with the trowel or dibble; because the soil, remaining free from all compression, is more readily penetrated by the root-fibres. During frosts and heavy rains, the beds should be covered by canvass or matting suaf<"ne spot; the same of the Scarlet Mimulus, M. cardinalis. Prom M. guttatus, rivularis, variegatus, and perhaps others, very many cross-bred varieties have been raised from seed, which have obtained a certain reputation as florists' flowers. They are more or less hardy, strike freely from cuttings, like a mixture of sandy loam and heath-mould, with abundance of water. In fact, they are almost aquatic plants. The blossoms, though ephe- meral, are produced in long succession; and, if we had not so many better things, Mimuluses might boast of their floral merits and pretensions, although inclined to be weedy. Moneywort—Lysvmachia nummularia, i. e. Loose Strife, or Stopper of Contests.—A native plant in meadows and moist woods, useful as a pendant fringe for rock-work, vases, &c. In boxes, it makes an elegant border to the floor of a balcony. Its foliage is neat and regular, and a little yellow flower appears at the foot of every leaf. Little bits of the root will grow in peat earth. Give plenty of air, sunshine, and water. HERBACEOUS FLOWERS. 97 Tansy, or Hearts-ease — Viola tricolor.—A modern result of horticultural skill and patience. There are now innumerable named and unnamed varieties, whose lead- ing " property" is that they must be circular in general outline, and flat and very smooth at the edge: every notch or unevenness is considered a blemish. Choice varieties are propagated by cuttings taken from the ends cf the shoots, in spring, cutting them off just below a joint. Hoot-division is also an available mode; but tho shoots must be shortened when too long or straggling All good Pansies should be thus divided annually, or renewed by cuttings, to prevent them from degeneration. Those operations also serve to transfer the plant to fresh soil, which should be light and rich, well drained, but not dry. Many amateurs find great amusement in raising Pansies from seed saved from the finest flowers. These are grown in shallow pans of leaf-mould enriched with old manure; and are pricked out, when large enough, to the bed wherein they are to show their master what they are. Pansies like an open, airy, sunshiny spot. In close places, they soon spindle up, straggle about, and pine into goo d-for-nothingn ess. Tentstemon campanulaius.—A Mexican plant, with slender flower-stems, half a yard high, or more, which are surmounted by long tubular blossoms, dark-red out- side and whitish within. Is useful as a bedding plant, from the long continuance of its flowering season. Pro- pagate by seeds, cuttings, and parting the stool. Seed- lings vary greatly, both in foliage and colour of their flowers. Must winter in a cold frame, or green-house. P. cyananthus is a hardy perennial, producing long spikes of beautiful blue flowers. P. digitalis is a robust plant, which has sported into numerous varieties. P. Coloea, from Texas, has large flesh-coloured flowers, striped with carmine. A very handsome plant in the open border, but delicate. P. glandulosus, from North America, is hardy, with large velvety light-violet flowers. It will thus be seen that, as a genus, the Pentstemons are very uncertain in respect to hardiness, though they are all H 88 THE FLOWER GARDEN. more or less ornamental, and well deserve to have winte? shelter bestowed upon them. P. Mwrraymus, requiring heath-mould and protection from the frost, is a striking plant, with terminal bunches of vermilion blossoms. The specific names of other Pentstemons are indicative of their beauty; as speciosus, gracilis, venustus, pulchel- lus, roseus, and so on. Perennial Aster—Aster spectabilis, ccespitosus, argen- teus, Parisiensis, Beeversii (which makes a pretty edging), and several other species sporting into varieties and hybrids. The smaller their stature, and the more herbaceous their habit, the more desirable are they as border plants. "Will thrive in warm light loam, and are increased readily by root-division. Periwinkle— Vinca major and minor, the Greater and Lesser P.—Native trailing evergreens, which spread rapidly at root, and produce abundance of sky-blue flowers in spring, in light moist soil and somewhat shady situations, and are suitable for covering banks, or for forming edgings of a certain breadth. There are white- flowered and variegated-leaved varieties of the Lesser Periwinkle. Both are readily propagated by cuttings of their creeping shoots. Some of Rousseau's most sentimental effusions were called forth by the Peri- winkle flowering amidst the mountains of Switzer- land. V. herbacea, a Hungarian species of still more humble growth, requiring the same soil and culture as the preceding, has varieties with double blue and also double reddish-purple flowers. The Madagascar Peri- winkle, V. rosea, is a stove-plant, with dark shining green leaves, with pink flowers darker in the centre, a variety of which has white flowers with a crimson centre. A pretty pot-plant, with the family habit, flowering, in its place, all summer long and part of the winter; but a green- house even is not warm enough for it to grow thriftily. Phlox.—There are robust Phloxes, hardy perennials, of considerable stature, which help to fill up vacancies in ex- tensive pleasure-grounds; there are others, tenderer, more delicate, of humbler growth, in request as free-blooming HERBACEOUS FLOWERS. 99 bedding-plants. Perhaps the prettiest of these is Phlox Drtmmondi, an annual with a twiggy stem and somewhat downy foliage, whose lower leaves are oval and the upper lanceolate. It produces its pink flowers, which are darker in the centre, all summer long. It varies into numerous shades of rose and crimson. Propagate by seed in light rich loam. Admired kinds may be perpetu- ated by cuttings for a longer or shorter lapse of time. Phlox, i.e. Plame, is scarcely an appropriate name for the genus, as its prevailing colours are white, lilac, blue, blush, and pink. P. ovata aud nitida are exceptions, as having bright-red and violet-red flowers. All the species belong to the temperate regions of North America; one only, P. Sibirica, is found in the north of Asia. The Phloxes are in general robust plants which thrive in ordi- nary garden-soil, and are increased by cuttings, stool- division, and seed: the latter mode has originated many varieties, especially from P. acuminata. P. suaveolens, itself a variety of P. maculata, has produced striped flowers that have been much admired. But it is possible that, with the exception of Drummond?s, the beauty of the Phloxes has been over-vaunted. Picotee.—See Carnation. Pimpernel—Anagallis arvensis.—A red-flowered native, which would be admired were it rare and difficult of cul- ture; but it is only a weed. A. Monelli has an abun- dance of deep-blue flowers all summer long, but is tender in winter. Strike from cuttings, in heath-mould, undei a bell-glass. Other less-known Pimpernels deserve patronage; superba, Philipsi, grandijlora, and rosea. There are shrubby Pimpernels with double flowers; al1 greenhouse plants. Pinlc—Dianthusplumarius.—A florists' flower, in great variety; is, however, more generally looked upon as a border than a bedding plant; most acceptable in bouquets for its rick, yet delicate perfume. In any light warm garden-soil it only requires piping or layering every second year to prevent it from getting weedy and shabbj in foliage and inferior in bloom.—See Carnation. The h 2 100 THE FLO WE 11 GABDEN. China Pink, D. Sinensis, though mostly single, is exceed- ingly pretty, from its brilliant contrasts of colouring. Treat as a hardy annual, sowing on gentle bottom-heat, and pricking out when its stature and the season render expedient. It is really a biennial, with an extensible term of existence, like many others. Therefore, any very prepossessing variety (and there will be sure to be many in a large sowing) may be retained by detaching and striking the shoots at the bottom of the flowering-stem. Polyanthus—Primula elatior, or vulgaris, var. can- lescens.—This popular cottage-garden flower is probably the offspring of hybridizations between the Cowslip and its more showy relative, the Oxlip. But the transition, in a cultivated state, from Primroses to Cowslips, from stemless flowers to those with stems, is so gradual, that it is not easy to define, first, which are species, and, secondly, which are varieties. Single Polyanthuses only are Plorists' flowers, and deemed worth the honour of having " properties" required of them; but many of the double varieties are very pretty, as well as those called the Hose-in-hose kinds, and those with coloured calyces, which continue ornamental after the petal has disappeared. The genus Primula delights in leaf-mould, or mixtures of peat and sandy loam, kept somewhat moist, in half-shady situations. They make gay borders or edgings at the foot, of north-east or north- west walls, or under lofty trees. In pots, unless allowed to bloom in the open air, their colours are less brilliant. Double kinds are increased by dividing the stool. The raising of seedling Polyanthuses is a very amusing task, in consequence of the immense variety obtained. Sow the seed, as soon as ripe (though it will keep pretty well for a year or two), on leaf-mould and sand, covering it but slightly or not at all, either in shallow pans or in a preparatory bed. As soon as the plants are big enough to be handled, prick them out in the place where they are to flower, and water and shade till they have taken hold of the ground. Polyanthuses and Primroses are not fond of manure.—See Primrose. Potentilla. — The herbaceous species, whence many HERBACEOUS ELOWERS. 101 varieties have been obtained, have very much the habit of Strawberry-plants, with flowers mostly in shades of pink, red, ana crimson, of easy culture in ordinary soil, and useful on rockwork. Though pleasing, they are not of striking beauty. P. fruticosa, Shrubby Potentilla, makes a thick bush, about a yard high, producing bright- yellow flowers all summer long, and hardy in good soils and sunny situations. It seldom ripens seed, but supplies the defect by abundance of suckers. Primrose—Primula.—Double Primroses delight in the same soil and situation as Polyanthuses, but are somewhat less robust, being apt to damp off, go frost- bitten, or succumb under the repeated ravages of slugs. Somewhat disdained as florists' flowers, they still main- tain, deservedly, a certain horticultural and commercial value. They do well in a raised bed of leaf-mould, held together by brick-work or other support, and thus meet the admirer's eye half-way. There are white, yellow (at least two varieties), lilac, red (several varities), crimson (ditto) double Primroses, besides mottled flowers and those which contain combinations of tints. They occa- sionally indulge the caprice of sending up a stem, thereby raising their flowers to an elevation of several inches above the leaves. "When they execute this freak, they may be regarded as whole-coloured double Polyanthuses. Persons desirous of forming collections of double Prim- roses, are advised to procure them (both for excellence, variety, and cheapness) either from Prench or Belgian Flanders. Propagate by root-division, and keep a con- stant eye on choice varieties, both for their health's sake and to prevent kidnapping. Good double Primroses are exceedingly apt to make themselves scarce. P. cortu« so'ides, from Siberia, is a charming little miniature, pro- ducing at the top of its stem a very large number of tiny, delicate lilac flowers, and requires the same treat- ment as the above, with the advantage that it may be raised from seed. As yet, not a common plant. Tli6 P. Sinensis, Chinese Primrose, is mainly useful for the winter decoration of living-apartments. It is nearly scentless, very gay, and lasts long in bloom. There are 102 THE riOWEB. GAKDEK. white and various shades of pink varieties, with fringed and plain edgings, single and double. Chinese Primroses have not yet been made to render much service in the open ground. Though the roots will survive several years, they do not do much after their first season of flowering, and may be as well thrown away, to be replaced by seedlings annually raised, and pricked out in pots filled with a mixture of leaf-mould and sandy loam. There are also several Alpine species of Primula, which well deserve a nook in a shady border. Meed.—See Grass. Mocket.—The Double Yellow Pocket, Brassica eruca, would be rather handsome were its petals not so fleeting. Grows in any good garden-soil, is increased by cuttings and root-division. The Double "White or Garden Eocket, Hesperis matronalis, is really a noble flower, when well grown, which is not always. The first essential to have fine Sockets, is a rich, deep, strong loam, even inclining to clayey, like the best wheat-lands ; the next is, to shift the plant annually to a fresh spot, and divide the stools, which afford the means of propagation, as also do cuttings. The Garden Eocket varies in colour from light blush or French white, to light purple or violet. The scent of the spikes of flowers, somewhat resembling that of Stocks, is more powerful towards night; whence its generic name, Hesperis. Though hardy, requires looking to, and resents neglect. St. JohrCs Wort—Hypericum.—Yellow flowers, very similar in appearance in the different species, though varying in size. The large St. John's Wort (sometimes erroneously called Star of Bethlehem) has a very showy flower, almost filled with a silky tasselled tuft of stamens with red anthers, but of short duration. It spreads rapidly by its creeping stems, in light, dry, sunny soils, such as gravelly banks; and if not wet at root, will bloom abundantly in spite of trees overhead. Tutsan is a hardy shrubby St. John's "Wort, largely employed in shrubberies and pleasure-grounds by gardeners of the last century; but it has now, for the most part, retired HERBACEOUS FLOWERS. 108 from business, in consequence of the arrival of more attractive and equally serviceable new-comers. One or two Tutsan bushes may be permitted to help to form a screen of shrubs, in consideration of the days of auld lang syne. Salvia—Sage.—See " The Kitchen Grarden."—S. splen- dens forms a robust tuft that throws up spikes of scarlet flowers; a showy plant, very useful in autumn; will sur- vive our winters, but should not remain long on tho same spot, and therefore is best divided at the root in autumn, potted, and kept under a frame during winter. S. patens resembles the above in habit, with brilliant smalt-blue flowers, but must have winter protection. S. nemoralis, hardy, produces a long succession of small amethyst-purple flowers, which have a fine effect when grown in a large mass, or as a hedge, and which are so attractive to bees that the twiggy stems on which they grow sometimes are crowded with numerous species of the genus Apis: there are humble-bees, earth-bees, hive-bees, and others,—queens, drones, and workers,—all swarm- ing together amidst the flower-forest in search of honey. C. coccinea, tender in winter, makes a convenient pot- plant, being in the style of S. splendens, but smaller and slenderer. There are numerous other gaudy species, with blue, pink, white, yellow, red, violet, and two- coloured flowers, in all more than four hundred, the majority not hardy in England. They are raised from seeds, cuttings, and root-division; like light rich soil, which they speedily exhaust; and require frequent shift- ing in pots. Old stools of the more showy Salvias, win- tered in a frame, and planted out in May entire, will make magnificent tufts, and furnish a profusion of splendid bloom. Saxifrage.'—-See London Tuft. Scabious—Scabiosa atro-purpurea, and others. Pin- cushion Elower.—Well-known border plants, which retain their place mainly because we are used to them, and are accustomed to cut their honey-scented blooms to fill up the intervals in large bouquets. Sowing the seeds gives THE FLOWEB GABBED, vou fresh young plants which are not nice about soil; but the stool may often be divided into rooted shoots, which is a quicker process. Sedum—Stone-crop, Ginger, "Wall-pepper, Love-chaiu, Gold-dust, &c.—The hardy species of this genus of sue- culents, mostly with yellow or white flowers, are service- able for rock-work and artificial ruins. The Orpine, 8. Tclephium, with dull purple flowers, and which attains a height of some eighteen inches, is planted along the roof- ridge of many cottages in Normandy, where it looks like the bristles on the back of an angry boar. These hardy Sedums may be regarded rather as convenient materials in the hands of the landscape-gardener, than as real garden flowers. S. Sieboldii, amongst the greenhouse species, is an elegant plant to suspend in a pot or basket. Snapdragon.—See Antirrhinum. Solomon's Seal.—See Lily of the Valley. Spiderwort—Tradescantia Virginica.—An old peren- nial border plant, with blue flowers varying to purple, in either case occasionally more or less double. Will grow almost anywhere, and is increased by dividing the stool. There are hothouse species, one of which, T. discolor, is mainly grown for the beauty of its leaves. Sweet William.—See London Tuft. Thrift—Armenia vulgaris—In French, Gazon d'Es- pagne, Spanish Turf, or, more poetically, Gazon d'Olympe, Turf of Olympus.—The English name is derived from its thriftiness in towns and confined situa- tions, though its native home is on the grassy tops of cliffs whose base is washed by the waves, and whose summit is exposed to the sunshine and wind. Thrift is mamiy employed for edgings, for which it is well adapted by its grasslike tufts of leaves and its numerous heads of pretty pink flowers. In the wild state even, the depth of their tint varies greatly; in gardens, there is a variety with deep crimson flowers, which is much more ornamental than the common sort. Propagate by division of the Btool. For neatness' sake, as soon as the flowers are HERBACEOUS FLOWERS. 105 faded, clip their stems, not the herbage, close with a pair of shears. A. plantaginea, which abounds in dry and Bandy districts in the interior of Prance, would equally answer the purpose of an edging in gardens. A. pseudo- Armeria, False-thrift, from Barbary, is a magnified species altogether on a larger scale, which produces several times a year heads of rosy flowers at the top of stems half a yard high. Must be treated as a greenhouse plant in winter. • The Thrifts were &'tatices in the days of Lin- nseus. The modern Statices are mostly greenhouse plants, of sub-shrubbv stature, with pleasing rather than handsome flowers, and, like their half-brother the Thrift, fond of a sea-side residence. Valerian.—Valeriana hortensis, and JPyrenaica, are common garden perennials, with white and red flowers respectively. The latter will grow and bloom well on a wall or rock-work. They have no right to take higher rank than that of hardy filling-up stuff. V. cornucopia, Horn-of-Plenty Valerian, from the North of Africa, is a tall annual, which produces numerous red flowers, and is eaten as a salad, like the Maches (or Corn Salads, mentioned in our former volume), of which some people are very fond in winter and spring. Sow in light soil in spring, or better in autumn. Veronica Chamcedrys, or Earth-Oak Veronica (from the shape of its leaves),—the pretty blue-flowered Grer- mander Speedwell of our hedges,—is the type of a large genus, which furnishes several easily-cultivated border- plants that supply a long succession of fleeting flowers, on spikes, in shades mostly varying from white to deep blue. St. Veronica was the compassionate female who, the legends tell us, offered a napkin to the Saviour on his way to the Cross. He used it to wipe the perspiration from his face, and his likeness remained miraculously imprinted thereon. The napkin itself is still occasionally exhibited to the public from a lofty balcony beneath the dome of St. Peter's, at Eome. The Veronicas are aptly named after a benevolent woman, aa there is something graceful, feminine, and fragile in their 106 THE ELOWER GARDES" aspect. There are also greenhouse herbaceous species, Veronicas speciosa, Andersoni, salicifolia, and Lindley- ana, from New Holland, requiring sandy loam and heath-mould, stand the winter outdoors in such climates as that of Cornwall in England, and Brittany in France, where they make handsome low-growing evergreen shrubs. As they strike from cuttings without difficulty, it is easy to keep up a succession of young plants in pots, in which character they will render service by flowering during the dead months of the year. Violet—Viola odorata.—"White, dull-red, and deep- blue sweet-scented varieties grow wild; there are also double white, red, and dark-blue garden sorts. The Parma Violet has very light-blue double flowers, exceed- ingly pleasing, but hardly so highly scented as the for- mer; will flower under a frame from October till spring. The Bruneau Violet has double flowers, with the outer petals dark blue, the inner ones mottled with white, red, and blue. Some Violets have a greater tendency than others to commence flowering in autumn, and to conti- nue, under favourable circumstances, throughout the winter. Such are the Bussian and the Neapolitan Vio- lets, amongst the singles; and the double red, and the Champlatreux double white or Four-Seasons Violet. Advantage is taken of these hybernal bloomers by plant- ing them in frames like cucumber-frames, on a bed of soil composed of leaf-mould, calcareous earth, and allu- vial loam. Continued crops of violets, for bouquets, are thus obtained, and they form a profitable branch of mar- ket-gardening in France. Violets are increased fast by runners and root-division. The double kinds are some- times used as edgings, but they come into bloom some- what later than singles. The Tree Violet is regarded as a woody-stemmed species, from the Canaries; but it may be questioned whether its erect character be not as much an artificial circumstance as the shrub-like shape of. Tree Mignonnette, which is nothing but the result of training an upright stem to a stick, and pinching off the lower shoots. Besides the Sweet Violet and the Heart's SHRUBBY AND SUB-SHRUBBY FLOWERS. 107 Ease, there are numerous other species, some of which are lively ornaments to a rock-work or the top of a wall, or will brighten up the barrenness of a sandy waste. Water IAly—Nympbcea alba, the White, and NupTiar luteum, the Yellow; the former much the handsomest.— Useful in ponds with a muddy bottom, where gold-fish, fresh-water tortoises, &c., are kept. Procure a good large stout rhizoma at the end of summer, and sink it in its place by a stone tied to it. The Yellow Water Lily is apt to increase to a troublesome extent; so beware how you introduce it to your artificial lake. There are Chinese Water Lilies, red and blue, whose winters at home are severer than with us, and yet they cannot get through ours. It is the defective summer heat which renders them thus tender. Willow Herb.—A large genus, many of whose species, with gay red flowers, grow wild in moist spots. The French Willow Herb, E. spicatum, is a tall perennial, useful for screens and shrubbery-skirts, with purplish- red flowers and blue anthers. Hardy; increases so fast at root as to become a nuisance, if you let it. SHRUBBY AND SUB-SHRUBBY FLOWERS. There is so gradual a transition from herbs to shrubs, and from shrubs to trees, that the terms " sub-shrubby plants" and " suffruticose trees" have been invented, to designate those individuals which occupy intermediate positions in the long series of the vegetable kingdom. If, therefore, the reader should feel inclined to cavil at the Wallflower's being included amongst the Shrubby Flowers, that climbers like the Clematis and the Passion- flower are made to enter into the same list, or that the Arbutus and the Elder rank with Flowering Trees in the present volume,—he will kindly remember that there is no room here to discuss nice botanical distinctions, but simply to pass in compact review the most desirable occupants of a flower-garden. Mthcsa frutecc, or Hibiscus Syriacus, often called 100 THE FLOWER GARDEN". simply Fratex in popular gardening language.—A hardy shrub, requiring, however, a longer and hotter summer than our own, producing abundance of mallow-like flowers from August till cold weather sets in, in single and semi- double varieties, in various shades and combinations of white, pink, crimson, and purple. In Lombardy, hedges are made of the Shrubby Althsea, which are gay with a long succession of bloom. In England, it would be worth while to forward the handsomest kinds in tubs in a greenhouse, to be placed in the pleasure-ground at midsummer, as Orange-trees and Pomegranates are in the Parisian gardens. The Althaea frutex grows slowly, and lives to a considerable age: good loamy soil suits it best. Sow the seeds in boxes, or in a frame, in spring ; prick out the young plants in separate pots, and keep them in the greenhouse in winter, for the first two or three years. Eavourite kinds may be continued and multiplied by grafting. The plants are also made to serve as stocks to receive scions of the very beautiful Chinese Hibis- cuses, which, however, appertain to the greenhouse and the hothouse. The affinity between the Althaeas and the Hibiscuses is so close, that a few of the latter, somewhat more hardy, may be mentioned here. They are remark- able for their vigorous habit of growth, and their large flowers, which make a fine show in September. They like a light, rich, deep soil, a rather shady situation, and require to be mulched and protected with litter over the crown of their root in frosty weather. They rarely ripen their seed, and do not bear root-division well, but must be raised from imported seed. H. palustris, Marsh H., from North America, should be abundantly watered in summer. H. roseus, Posy H., a native of the marshes of the Landes of Prance. H. militaris, with deep-red flowers, from North America. H. speciosus, from Caro* lina, is safest in a greenhouse during winter. The above succeed against a wall in maritime or insular situations, like Ireland or Cornwall. American Allspice — Calicanthus floridus — A mis- nomer, in respect to the English name, which is betrayed SHRUBBY AND SUB-SHRUBBY FLOWERS. 109 by the prefix " American."—The plant has no relation- ship with spice-hearing trees. The French name it Arlre aux Anemones, Anemone-tree; for its reddish- brown flowers are not dissimilar, in shape, to double Anemones. Unlike them, they exhale an odour which resembles melon and ripe apple combined. It is a twiggy shrub, with deciduous foliage, suitable for verandahs or rustic porticos, thriving in a mixture of light loam and heath-mould, and worthy of a warm sheltered corner. Propagate by suckers, or by layers half-cut through behind a joint, which should remain in the ground a couple of years. There are varieties of this Anemone- tree. C. occidentalism of Dr. Lindley, is a robuster shrub, with broader leaves, larger brick-red flowers, hardier than the preceding, and less nice as to soil and aspect. Azalea.—A large and beautiful genus, which must be treated as what are called American plants, i.e., grown in heath-mould, with a greater or less admixture of sandy loam, in somewhat shady and sheltered situations, where they are never very moist nor very dry. They bear trans- planting (with the ball of earth attached to their roots) and forcing well. In the American bed in the open garden, the hardy species are valuable for their early blooming in spring, and their handsome bouquets of brilliant flowers. They have the defect of being rather thin and naked, running up bare and spindle-shanked, even if they did not put forth their flowers, in various shades of yellow, white, and red, before the full develop- ment of their leaves. They are propagated by offsets, by layering, and grafting. From seeds, which are hybri- dized with facility, numerous varieties are obtainable. Hardy species of Azalea are viscosa, glauca, nudiflora, and calendulaeea, all from North America. A. Pontica, with yellow blossoms, comes from the Caucasus. All out-door American plants are best grown in a compart- ment of the garden that is specially devoted to them. The Chinese Azaleas are greenhouse plants. Their extreme beauty is sufficiently attested by a reference to no THE FLO WEE GA.EDEF. the Metropolitan Horticultural Shows. For their varie- ties, the reader is referred to the nurserymen, especially as new ones are constantly coming out. Even an imper- feet list of those now grown would fill several of these pages. Berberry.—The Common Berberis vulgaris is useful to stop a gap in a shrubbery, on account of its curious flowers, with their irritable stamens (which will move if you tickle them with a pin or a bristle), followed by bunches of scarlet fruit. It looks well as a standard with weeping branches. Our gardens have of late made a valuable acquisition in the Evergreen Holly-leaved Berberry, B. (or Mahonia) aguifolium and B. pinnata, both easily raised from suckers and seeds, ai * natives of Oregon and California. Bignonia capreolata—Tendrilled Trumpet-flower—is the only one of its genus which can be left all the year round in the open ground. At the foot of a south wall, with a covering of litter at foot in winter, and plenty of room to spread about, it will be covered from midsummer to autumn with a profusion of tubular tawnv-red flowers. Strikes easily from cuttings. Birthwort—Aristolochia.—A genus of climbers, with flowers in general not remarkable for beauty. A. Sipko has enormous heart-shaped leaves, which adapt it for covering walls and trellis-work with a thick mantle of green during summer. This species, as well as tomen- tosa and ArTcansa, are hardy in England. Propagate most surely by layers half-divided behind an eye. A. labiosa has a very large whitish flower blotched with blue- black, whose odour is so offensive as almost to prohibit its cultivation. The genus is medicinal, or rather poisonous. Both its English and its botanical names have reference to its effects on the human system, which have sometimes been applied to evil purposes. Hence, some gardeners are unwilling to avail themselves of the aid which its striking foliage affords. Bladder Senna—Colutea arborescent.—Fitter for the shrubbery than the garden proper, and the delight of SHBTTBBY AND StTB-SHBTJBBY FLOWEBS. Ill children, who amuse themselves with squeezing and bursting the bladder-like seed-vessels that succeed its yellow flowers. Grows freely in any soil, preferring cal- careous earth, from suckers or seeds. G. cruenta is a prettier and smaller species. Bramble.—There is a double white-flowered variety of the common Bramble, Bubus fruticosus, which produces, from July to autumn, bunches of blossoms like miniature roses. It likes rather a damp soil, and is propagated by cuttings, or better by suckers. The Bubus genus flowers on the wood of the previous year, which should be cut out afterwards like raspberry-canes, to make room for new. There is also a double pink variety, which was found wild, in 1817, near Clion, in the department of Indre, Prance. Double flowers of other genera are occasionally met with wild. The common Ladies' Smock, or Cuckoo-flower, is not rarely found wild and double in meadows. B. odoratus, the Canada, or Flowering Raspberry, is useful in the shrubbery and in towns, for its large foliage, its late and rosy flowers, and its thrifti- ness in shade. Propagate by the rhizomatous runners, and cut out the old wood in spring. There is a white- flowered variety. Broom.—The Common Broom, Genista scoparia, were it rarer, would be highly esteemed as an ornamental shrub, and may be so employed even as it is. Our Plan- tagenet dynasty took their name from the Blanta Genista. The Spanish, or White-flowered Broom, Spar- tium album, or Gytisus albus, is taller and tenderer than the above, requires a light dry soil, and is propagated by seeds, or by grafting on the common Laburnum, which will serve as a stock for most of the hardy ornamental Brooms. Brugmansia.—B. suaveolens, or Datura arborea, is a noble suffruticose Peruvian tree, unfortunately too ten- der to stand our winters ; and B. sanguinea has hitherto been confined to our conservatories. But as new facta in gardening are as valuable as new cases in medicine, Mr. Robert Dowling's communication is quoted from the 112 THE FLOWEH GA.EDEH. Gardener's Chronicle for Jan. 12, 1856: — "A noble specimen of Brugmansia sangumea grows in tbe pleasure- grounds adjoining Crom Castle, tbe seat of the Earl of Erne, county Fermanagh, Ireland. It was planted in a conservatory in May, 1845, and was then about three teet high. Notwithstanding severe annual pruning, it grew too large in a few years, and was considered scarcely worthy of a place under glass. In May, 1851, I planted it out in the open ground, having the previous autumn cut its roots three feet from the stem, and ever since it has attracted the attention and been universally admired by the numerous visitors to this beautiful demesne. At the request of some ladies on a visit here, I measured the plant last August; it was then 14 feet 6 inches high, girthed at the ground 2 feet 6 inches, and covered an area of 165 square feet. At that time it was really a beautiful plant, completely covered with flowers and foliage to the surface of the ground; I then counted 180 flowers fully expanded, with twice that number ready to open. A gentleman told me, a few days afterwards, that he had counted above 200 open on it. It would be diffi- cult to calculate the number it produced last summer; but I would say at least some thousands, as there was a regular succession from the beginning of summer, and it has now, January 5th, many open on it. It was planted in a mixed soil, composed of loam, bog-earth, a good por- tion of charred matter, rotten dung, and leaves—perfect drainage of course being secured. As I learned from experience that Brugmansia will not stand our winters without protection, ever since it was planted in the open ground I each year, in October, covered it by sticking poles in the ground, 5 inches apart, the spaces between being stuffed tight with grassy moss raked from an adjoining wood. A span roof is then put on, one side of which is thatched, the other covered with sashes, which has an additional covering in long-continued frost. To make all sure, I put inside a few cast-metal pipes, connected with a stove; but even last winter, although very severe, they were seldom used, as it requires a very SHRUBBY AND SUB-SHRUBBY FLOWERS. .113 great frost to penetrate through moss a few inches thick. At the same time, arrangement for free ventilation is provided. I take the protection gradually away in March and April, and altogether in May. It may be considered that the plant is not worthy the trouble thus bestowed on it; but few could see it in summer and make that remark. The branches are shortened in before covering, or it might have been twice as tall as it now is. There are many free-flowering plants, commonly occupants of the greenhouse, which I think would succeed quite as well planted out as the Brugmansia, large specimens of which would add a new and interesting feature to our pleasure- grounds. I propose planting out a few next May, with a view to their remaining out through the winter, and getting glass cases made (so that they can be easily increased in size at pleasure and removed in spring) for their protection." Buddlea globosa.—A Peruvian shrub, with leaves which ought to be evergreen, and round heads of orange- tawny flowers. May be trained against a wall; but in sheltered situations will survive our winters in the open shrubbery, under the shelter of lofty trees, in light well- drained soil. Its long oval leaves, very light under- neath, and its sweet-smelling bullets of deep-yellow florets, give it a certain exotic charm. Multiply by cub- tings and suckers, which keep in a pot, in a cool frame, the first two or three winters. When planted out, mulching at the roots is a wise precaution. B. Mada- gascariensis, also with odoriferous yellow flowers, must winter in the greenhouse. B. Lindleyana, from China, with red and purple flowers, is hardier, and may at least be ventured to cover a sunny wall. Camellia Japonica.—Beautiful evergreen shrubs flower- ing in spring, and forming their flower-buds so early in winter, as to render their out-door culture with us extremely hazardous, although success is attained in a few favoured spots in Cornwall, with the aid of partial protection. On this account, Camellias will live in many situations where they will rarely flower. In a border i 114 THE FLOWER GARDEN. backed by a high wall, or trained against the wall itself, it will not be difficult to shelter them and to keep frost rom their roots by a covering of litter. The variegated ed is one of the hardiest; but the original single red amellia, on which the double varieties are mostly in- rched, raised from seed, makes a splendid bush where it n flower in the open air. In truth, however, the place f Camellias, in the United Kingdom, is in conservatories and living-apartments. They are house-plants, and as such they must be considered, in spite of their occasional and rare presence in the flower-garden : their culture constitutes a peculiar and elaborate branch of greenhouse gardening; and their cut blooms form a considerable item in the returns of nurserymen during winter and spring in general, and at the periods of the Paris and London seasons especially. Chinese Pceony.—See Pceony, in the last section. Christ''s Thorn—Phamnus Paliurus.—A shrub whose branches are furnished, when vigorous, with several series of thorns, some straight like pins, and others bent like fish-hooks. The foliage has a certain elegance, from the regularity with which the small leaves are disposed along the twigs. The small yellow flowers are inconspicuous, while the berries have somewhat the shape of a low- crowned broad-brimmed hat. Its chief interest lies in being pointed out by the ancient tradition of the Koman Catholic Church as at least one of the plants which com- posed the Saviour's crown of thorns. The fact is far from improbable, as the Christ's Thorn is a native of Syria. In Italy it makes formidable hedges, through which vine- yard-pilferers can hardly pass without leaving a portion of their garments, and perhaps sundry bits of skin and drops of blood, behind them. To grow vigorously, it requires a long hot summer. Here, it may be kept alive in a sunny nook, in a weak and starveling condition, hardly recognizable by those who have seen it in the South of Europe. Cistus ladaniferus,—the Grum Cistus,—with long, lanceolate, viscous leaves, and large white flowers with a dark red centre, is one of the handsomest shrubs we have. SHETTBBY AND STTB-SHBUBBY FLOWEBS. ll«i There are other spec:'ies, with yellow, red, and purple flowers, which, though individually ephemeral, follow each other in long and constant succession during the finest summer months. Some of our native trailing species make exceedingly elegant rock-plants. The Cistuses are of various degrees of hardiness, but all like a warm, well- drained, chalky soil. Multiply by suckers, cuttings, and seeds sown on a hotbed in spring. Clematis.—See Virgin's Bower. Clianthus puniceus.—A very handsome half-creeping shrub, with pinnated leaves, from New Zealand. It is usually kept in pots, in a greenhouse, in a mixture of loam and rotten hotbed ; but will stand the winter trained against a wall (especially near the sea), with the protec- tion of thick mulching and matting in winter. There, its bunches of large pea-like scarlet blossoms are really splendid. Increase by cuttings and suckers. Coronilla glauca.—A pretty, yellow-flowered, papilion- aceous pot-shrub, with sea-green pinnated leaves, useful for parlour-windows, because its plum-scented blossoms are gay throughout the winter. Native of the shores of the Mediterranean ; is increased by seeds, cuttings, and layers. C. Bmerus is hardier and more robust, with red flower-buds and yellow open flowers. It is sometimes used to make clipped fences, where the resistance of thorns is not required. If shorn in spring, will flower in autumn. Cytisus Laburnum, or False Ebony, from its handsome dark heart-wood.—Almost a tree; well known for its bunches of drooping golden blossoms in spring. Hardy, vigorous, and increased abundantly by seed ; is used as a stock whereon to graft other more delicate Cytisuses and allied species ; amongst which are C. nigricans, sessili- folius, capitatus, Austriacus purpureus (with pinky- violet flowers), and albus, Spartium album, or Spanish Broom. On one of the grass-plots in Kew Hardens there grows a curiosity interesting to hybridists,—a Laburnum between Cytisus nigricans and C. Laburnum. The plant has put forth one branch of nigricans and one of Laburnum; the rest is hybrid. 116 THE ELOWEB GAEBEH., Daphne.—D. Mezereon is one of our earliest and most welcome spring flowers, acceptable to early wandering bees. The French may well call it Bois-Gentil, or Pretty "Wood. Grow it in rich soil, to make it abundantly twiggy, and consequently flowery. Propagate by sowing the berries. The Mezereon, ordinarily pinky-lilac, has white-blossomed and also deep-crimson varieties. The "Wood or Spurge Laurel, D. Laureola, is a hardy ever- green shrub, with green sweet-scented flowers. D. Pontica is similar in habit, but is tenderer. Several others, as D. odora, a greenhouse shrub, are multiplied by grafting on D. Laureola. An interesting novelty is Fortune's Daphne, D. Fortunei, found by that enterprising gentle- man in the north of China. It has deciduous leaves, and little terminal tufts of purple-lilac flowers, which appear before the foliage. Grow it in a mixture of heath- mould and sandy loam, and try if it will not prove hardy in the unsheltered bed. Deutzia gracilis, from Japan.—A favourite pot-plant, because it forces well, and is covered with an abundance of pure white flowers in small bunches. People who see it in that state in February scarcely suspect that it may be hardy out of doors. D. scabra, on a somewhat larger scale, is a little like a miniature Syringa, with white powerfully-scented blossoms. There are also D. corymbosa and canescens. Deutzias (which merit encouragement) strike readily from cuttings under a bell-glass; but if plants which have been forced in spring be turned out of their pots in early summer, and planted with their balls rather deep in the open ground, they will form several well-rooted suckers, which will make strong plants the following season. jFurze (Double)—TJlex Furopceus—makes a handsome single bush in the midst a grass-plot, glittering in spring like a complete mass of golden flowers. Requires well- drained sandy soil; and, being of slow growth, is best purchased of nurservmen, who strike it from tiny cuttings under bell-glasses. Double flowers are not common amongst leguminous plants. Severe frost kills Furze, SHBUBBY AND SUB-SHBUBBY FLOWEBS. 117 either entirely, or more commonly down to the ground, reducing it to the condition of an herbaceous plant. Hence, its greater luxuriance near the sea. An old- established Double Furze well merits a little protection, when unusually hard weather threatens to destroy it. Fuschia.— Flowering shrubs, from the central and southern regions of America, and from 'New Zealand, with pendent flowers, combining grace of form with the charm of rich colouring. The first arrivals, from the end of the eighteenth century, were shrubby, twiggy plants, with a certain degree of hardiness; such as F. globosa, virgata, coccinea, &c.; but in 1837 came F. fulgens, of quite a different character, with larger, tenderer leaves, longer blossoms produced in terminal clusters, and more delicate constitution. This was soon followed by corym- biflora, cordifolia, and serratifolia, from which, amongst themselves and with the older sorts, very numerous hybrids have been obtained, and are still being obtained anew every season. The list of beautiful varieties now on record must amount to several hundreds. F. splendens and its nearest relatives, with the offspring which have originated from them, are scarcely fitted for the open border, as their large leaves and fragile stems render them the victims of gusts of wind, besides requiring a more greenhouse-like climate than even that of our most genial summers. The twiggy Fuschias may be regarded as herbaceous plants in the inland counties of England : many of them stand the winter, and form strong stools : although the frost may cut them down to the root, they shoot and flower well the following summer. In the south, and by the sea, they will form permanent bushes or coverings for walls. They are better suited to make single, than bedding plants; their habit is so decidedly different, as to give them the look of " a very odd lot " when collected in varieties to make masses in the parterre. Any light rich mould suits them, with no stint of water, or the weakest possible liquid manure, during their period of growth. They strike readily from cuttings under a hand-light. They are good plants for the amateur to 118 THE ELOWEB GABDES. amuse himself with, by hybridizing and raising new varieties ; as the parts of fructification are easily come- at-able, they seed freely, and the result has not to be waited for long. Guelder Hose— Snowball-tree—Vibu/rnum Opulus—is remarkable for the globular heads, consisting entirely of the white sterile blossoms, which, in the wild state, grow around the fertile ones. In this phase, it is called the Double Guelder Eose, and produces none of the bright crimson berries which are so great an ornament to the original shrub, and are so welcome to birds in hard winters. Flourishes in a deep moist soil; is easily pro- pagated by cuttings, layers, and suckers. V. edule, from South America, produces bright-red eatable fruit; how nice it is, the writer cannot say. V. Tmus, the Laurustinus, is a deservedly popular evergreen, flowering in winter; but bears slight frosts better than severe ones. In the south of France it attains the height of twenty feet and more. There are several varieties. Propagate by layers, but better buy of nurserymen. V. odoratissimum is a sweet-scented greenhouse shrub, which bears the winters of Cornwall and Brittany. V. Lcmtana, the Wayfaring Tree, with black berries and cottony heart-shaped leaves, is hardy; so is V. Lentago from North America. Other species are, V. cotinifolium, pru/nifolium, pyrifoliu/m, nudum, plicatum (hardy, from China), macrocephabm (ditto, sent by Fortune,—has heads of white flowers at least • as big as Hydrangeas), cylvndriaum, and ame- thystinum. Heath—Erica.—A family, rather than a genus, of low, twiggy, tufted shrubs, with curious and beautiful flowers, many of which look as if they were moulded in wax or blown in glass, and are one of the choicest ornaments of our Grand Horticultural Exhibitions. It is a pity that by far the great majority, from the Cape, will not stand our winters. In pots, Heaths must have heath- mould of course; be kept never too wet nor too dry, in a house by themselves, exposed to no sudden changes or extremes of temperature, and have the gardener's B1IEUBBT AND SUB-SHRUBBY FLOWERS. 119 daily, almost hourly attention. Hence, fine exotic spe* cimens are good testimonials to horticultural skill. All the British Heaths, of which there are six or seven, including varieties, deserve a place in the American bed. The prettiest are, E. Tetralix, with pink waxy flowers, fond of a moister situation than the others, and the Cornish Heath, red, with a white variety. JE. mediter- ranea is hardy, as is JE. carnea, very like the former, and producing abundance of pink and black blossoms in the depth of winter. Heaths are mostly struck from very small cuttings of the terminal shoots, in sand, under a bell-glass; but success is only attained by great care; and it takes some time to raise a plant of any respectable size. It is therefore better to purchase of nurserymen who make the culture of Heaths their business, a visit to whose garden is an instructive lesson, and whose lists comprise all that is new, as well as all that is old and of good repute. Waterer and Godfrey, of "Woking, Surrey, amongst others, are famous for their Heaths; but the fate of most Heaths in pots, purchased as window-plants without forethought as to their ultimate destiny, is to perish shortly after their first campaign. Hibiscus—See Althcea. — The Chinese Hibiscus, H. JBosa Sinensis, is a tall shrub with crimson hollyhock- like flowers, which are used in China to black shoes with ! From it have been raised many beautiful single and double varieties, white, yellow, and divers shades of red. Th 11 ' ' ' hered hothouse. green, which has produced varieties of a great diversity of foliage,— marginated, mottled, and extra-prickly,—which are increased by grafting on the common sort. In old trees, the upper leaves on the top branches are destitute of prickles at the edges. By grafting, an entire plant of this kind may be raised. Hollies do best in a light loam, and though they will live in very poor soil, they show their appreciation of a good one by their more luxuriant and fuller growth. The common species is raised from its berries, which should be laid in a heap to rot during handsome native ever- 120 THE ELOWEE GABDEN. winter. The growth of the seedlings is somewhat slow: these will furnish stocks for grafting and budding, as well as plants for forming hedges. A holly hedge is so effectual, durable, handsome, and hardy, that though it requires great patience to form, repays all the care that is bestowed on it. The young plants from a nursery (carefully lifted, without injuring their roots) should be planted in October, attentively watered and weeded for the first few years, and kept clear of everything that can overshadow or choke them. The Broad-leaved Holly, I. latifolia, a hardy evergreen from Japan, is propagated by grafting on the common Holly, as is also I. opaca, and several others. Admirers of the genus will find a tole- rably long list of species, some of which must pass the winter in a greenhouse. Honeysuckle — Lonicera. — Charming sweet-scented climbers and erect shrubs, which are almost all hardy with us. They have also the advantage of leafing early. They thrive in a sound, deep, light loam, with a half-shady exposure, and are consequently useful for covering walls and trellises that face the east or the west, even with a few points to the north. They are readily increased by seed from their berries, by cuttings, layers, and rooted suckers. The erect Loniceras wrill serve for hedges where great strength of fencing is not required. They are L. Tar- tarica, Tartarian H.; L. Pyrenaica, Pyrenean H., a pretty shrub, but more infested with aphides than the others; L. Alpigena, with pink flowers, and berries as big as little cherries ; L. Iberica, resembling the former, but with pubescent leaves ; L. Xylosteum, the Ply Honey- suckle; L. brachypoda, with twin odoriferous flowers, a greenhouse plant; and X. Ledebourii, from the Altai, hardy, with orange flowers and black berries. Climbing species are L. Gaprifolium, the Common Honeysuckle; L. Etrusca, a favourite with gardeners, as being almost a perpetual bloomer; L. implexa, from Majorca and Mi- norca, with slenderer stems and of humbler growth; L. parviflora, Little-flowered H., from Canada ; L. jlava, Yellow-flowered H., from 1ST. America, delicate and rare; SHRUBBY AND STJB-SHRTJBBY FLOWERS. 121 X. *empervirens, Evergreen or Trumpet H.; X. pi'losa, tender; X. pubescens, like the former; X. Periclymenim, the exquisitely-perfumed native of our woods; X. confusa, whose flowers change from white to yellow,—whence its Japanese name Nin-Too, or the Gold and Silver Elower ; and X. Sinensis, another sweet-scented and very desir- able species. Hydrangea Hortensia—the Garden Hydrangea, from Japan—does best out-doors, in England, near the sea, where the winters are mild and the climate moist. In the Channel Islands, and in Normandy, there are Hy- drangeas eight feet high, or more, with balls of flowers bigger than a man's head. Those balls are composed of sterile florets, exactly like the snowball on the Double Guelder Bose. The Hydrangea likes a light soil con- taining a large proportion of sand. The normal colour of the blooms is pink, after having been green in their immature state; but they change to blue when grown in certain soils, which can only be indicated with certainty after experiment; some peats, and also some loams, prove effectual to produce the chamseleon-like change, while others do not. It probably depends on the pre- sence of iron, in some peculiar combination. The Hy- drangea strikes freely from cuttings ; the plants require Jbundance of water. In pots, the soil should be annually renewed. In the open garden, a sheaf of loose straw scattered loosely over a bush will make a good protec- tion, as it admits air at the same time that it keeps off hoar-frost and ice from the tips of the shoots. Other species are, H. arhorescens, nivea, quercifolia, Japonica, involucrata; the last very pretty, requiring the same treat- ment as Hortensia, as also does H. pubescens, with large handsome leaves, whose petioles and veins are brilliant red. Jessamine— Jasminum officinale — is the favourite white-flowered, sweet-scented climber, so useful for covering arbours and verandahs ; may be also trained to make a handsome standard in a pot. Propagate by cut- tings and layers. J. Sambac, celebrated for the fragrance it exhales at night, must be grown in a hothouse. J. 122 THE FLOWER GARDEN. revolution, the Yellow Jessamine, has bright goldet flowers, and does best trained against a wall. The Win- ter Jessamine, J. nudiflorum, is another of the lovely things we owe to Mr. Fortune. Its multitudinous clear yellow blossoms appear before the leaves, in January or February, and it is hardy enough to be left out-doors against a wall, and may even prove that it has still greater powers of endurance. In pots, it makes a most elegant parlour shrub, with the additional recommenda- fcion that it is scentless, or nearly so. It may be ques- tioned whether there are any truly scentless flowers : it is certain that there are paradoxical flowers, which really exhale a powerful odour, that in some cases is extremely offensive to the human system, in others harmless, although the odour itself, as a smell, is imperceptible to ordinary nasal nerves. A correspondent of the Gar- dener's Chronicle (Jan. 8th) writes thus :—" This beau- tiful Jasmine is certainly a great acquisition to the flower-garden, inasmuch as it produces its cheerful bright- yellow flowers during autumn and winter, and continues blooming for several months in succession. It is also very useful for cutting for bouquets, and the sprigs will last in water a long time. It may be grown in any com- mon light soil; and no one fond of a garden ought to be without it, for it does not take up much room. It is best planted agamst a wall, and kept trained. It is a free-growing plant, when it gets established, and quite hardy. We have a specimen which has been planted about five years. It is against a south wall about ten feet high, and is covered with charming yellow flowers from bottom to top. It has been in this condition from the beginning of November, and appears likely to con- tinue so for a long time to come. When grown in this way, it is truly a splendid object. The way we have treated it is as follows:—It was planted out in the spring, and kept trained against the wall during summer, giving it a good supply of water at the roots. It made a good growth, and bloomed the same year. After flow- ering, it was pruned, cutting the side-shoots to one or SHRUBBY AND SUB-SHRUBBY FLOWERS. 123 two eyes, and keeping the leading shoots trained up the wall till they attained the height that was wanted. It has been pruned every year since. Of course, it should not be cut in summer, for it blossoms on the young wood, and the longer the shoots the more bloom you get. It is easily increased by cuttings or layers. In the former case, take part-ripened wood and place it in a pot in light soil and sand mixed together; afterwards, put them in a warm frame till they are rooted, and then pot them afresh in small pots. Set them in the frame again, till they are rooted; then move them to a cooler place till spring, when they may be turned out against a wall, and treated as recommended above." In short, the Winter Jessamine only requires to be better known to become a popular favourite ; and the purchase-money of this Book will be well laid out, if it only induces the purchaser subsequently to buy a plant or two of Jasmi- num nudijlortm. Other species deserving of notice are J. odoratissimum, yellow flowers, greenhouse culture; J. chrysanthum, hardy, evergreen, yellow, scentless; and J. grandijlorum, white, in greenhouse, sweet-scented; may be cleft-grafted on J. officinale. KaVmia. — American shrubs, with very curious and elegant flowers, requiring the same treatment as Aza- leas. The honey, of some species at least, is said to be poisonous. Laburnum.--See Oytisus. Purple Laburnum.—See Wistaria. Laurustinus.—See Viburnum. Lavender—Lavandula spica (whose flowers are in request by distillers, perfumers, and housekeepers who are careful over their linen)—is propagated by cuttings, in spring, struck under a hand-glass. See " The Kitchen Garden." L. Stcechas is tenderer, and not worth having trouble bestowed upon it; as are likewise Lavenders latifolia and pinnatijida. They grow wild on the shores of the Mediterranean. Lemon and Orange Trees—Citrus—grow out-doors against a wall in a few favoured spots in Cornwall and 124 THE FLOWER GARDEN. Devonshire. Large Orange-trees, in cubical boxes, sometimes as much as three or four hundred years old, wintered in an orangery, and placed in conspicuous posi- tions in the pleasure-ground during summer, form a striking feature in Continental gardening. They belong exclusively to the grand style of the Art, and demand considerable labour for their removal to and fro, and constant care in pruning and attendance. Those who have seen the Orange-trees in the gardens of the Tuileries and the Luxembourg at Paris will not easily forget their effect. The best French gardening-books should be consulted by those who desire to learn full details of their treatment. Lilac—Syringa vulgaris.—The common species has a pure white variety of less robust habit and growth. The French have raised and cultivate several others, one of which has leaves mottled with white and yellow. S. Per- sica, the Persian Lilac, is a smaller and slenderer shrub, with looser, more drooping heads of flowers, more aro- matically perfumed. This also has a white variety ; and another, S. Sangeana, is highly esteemed. The Persian Lilac forces well, both as pot-plants and to furnish cut flowers for bouquets. Less known Lilacs are S. dubia, a native of China; 8. JosiJcce, discovered in Hungary, in 1828, by the Countess Eosalie Josika. S. Emodi, a new Himalayan species, resembles the Persian Lilac, but with" more numerous flowers. The Lilacs produce plenty of suckers, and are propagated still more rapidly by layers : the rarer kinds are grafted on the common. Mezereon.—See Daphne. Myrtle—Myrtus communis (of which there are broad- leaved, narrow-leaved, variegated, and double-blossomed varieties)—in point of hardiness is much on an equality with the Camellia, resisting the winters in many parts of Cornwall, Devonshire, and Ireland, with this difference, that, flowering later, it blooms safely and abundantly in the open air. In most parts of England, Myrtles must be kept in the greenhouse during winter. The single flowers produce berries, from which seedlings may be SHRUBBY AND STJB-SHRTJBBY BLOWERS. 125 raised; but tbe usual mode is to strike cuttings in sandy soil under a bell-glass. Allspice, M. Pimenta, is now removed to another genus. M. micropTiylla has pretty foliage, which pleases by its great regularity. Nerium splendens—Oleander,—a handsome evergreen, with full, rose-pink, single or double flowers: there are flesh-coloured and other varieties. It is even tenderer than the Myrtle, and therefore useless here as an out- door shrub. Its merits hardly entitle it to the space it would occupy in the greenhouse, and its great tendency to bleed profusely renders pruning an unsatis- factory operation to keep it in shape. Many a gardener has looked upon the death of an awkward overgrown Nerium as a happy release, and has forthwith consoled himself for the bereavement by taking into favour some less ungainly beauty. It requires abundance of water, and is propagated either by rooted suckers, or by slips pulled off, not cuttings, rooted in a bottle of water, or in light soil kept constantly wet. It is abundant in Algeria, along the banks of streams, which it is said to poison, either by exudations from it3 root or the drip of its leaves. Oleander.—See Nerium. Passion Flower—Passiflora ccerulea, the Blue or Com- mon Passion-flower — is the representative of'a large genus, which are stove or greenhouse climbers, with the exception of two,—this and P. edulis,—which may be left in the open ground during our ordinary winters, with protection, and a covering of litter at root. Their name is derived from a fanciful resemblance which the various parts of inflorescence bear to the symbols and instru- ments of the Saviour's Passion,—to the glory, the ham- mer, the nails, the wounds, &c. Passion-flowers rapidly exhaust the soil in which they grow, require plenty of root-room, and consequently are not well adapted for pot-culture; they thrive in light, rich, deep loam, well drained, and yet not too dry. They are propagated by cuttings, layers, suckers, seeds, and by grafting on P. ccerulea. It is always safer to retain in pots small plants 126 THE ELOWEE GAEDEW. of the out-door kinds, in case of accident to their elders from severe frost. Some of the half-hardy kinds are worth turning out against a wall the first week in June, a succession for another year being kept up in the same way as with bedding-plants. Several species bear edible fruits, called grenadillas, which, if not of high flavour, afford welcome refreshment in hot climates; here (as those on P. edulis) they are simply pretty and curious, hang- ing along the branches like a series of eggs of increasing dimensions. P. guadrangularis bears, at home, fruits as big as Melons, whose pulp is eaten with sugar; in our hothouses, it flowers and gives out its perfume better than it fruits. P. Brasiliana produces flowers often at the extremity of its tendrils. P. maliformis has yellow fruit as big as apples; while that of P. lawifolia, the size of an egg, is in high esteem. P. palmata, with violet flowers, blooms well in the open air, although it may not prove perennial there. P. Neumani likewise may be made the subject of out-door experiment. P. in- carnata has deep-blue flowers, and its crown, or rays, are longer than the corolla. If its shoots are frozen in the open ground, it will send forth others, which will flower in the August of the same summer. P. Loudonii is a stove-plant, with brilliant crimson flowers, deservedly named in compliment to one of our most industrious and able horticultural writers. Polygala speciosa, oppositifolia, myrtifolia, lanceolate, Heisteria, &c. — Cape shrubs, with butterfly-shaped flowers of various shades of purple, and with a silky tassel at the tip of the keel. Their foliage is neat and regular; they require a mixture of leaf-mould and sandy loam. They will not bear our winters out-doors, which is a great pity; because, in pots, they have a great tendency to become wire-drawn and bare at foot, while the elegance of the flowers renders them desirable to retain either for bouquets or to remain blooming on the plants themselves. Purchase of a nurseryman, rather than be plagued with the slow process of raising tiny cuttings taken from the tips of the shoots, or seeds sown SHRUBBY AH» SUB-SHRUBBY FLOWERS. 127 on a hotbed, or layers. Be careful to water neither too little nor too much: it is far better to give the required moderate, but constant supply, at two or three doings than at one. Pomegranate—Oranatum, jiore pleno.—The Double- flowered Pomegranate will thrive out-doors, in England, against a wall. It is a favourite plant to be thus trained, as a sort of pilaster, on each side of the entrance-door of a mansion. But the blooms thereon are few and rare, partly perhaps from injudicious pruning: the flowers are produced on the shoots of the year, and therefore care should be taken to leave lateral spurs from which they may start. But the truth is, that, even in Erance, the Pomegranate is a tub-plant, requiring a considerable length as well as heat of summer, which is attained by forwarding it in an orangery in spring. So treated, and brought out of doors, with us, about midsummer, it becomes, in the course of years, a magnificent object, adorning the close of summer with its bright-scarlet fleshy flowers. The Pomegranate attains a great age; perhaps equal to that of the Orange-tree and the Olive. Its bark, then, is twisted like a corkscrew, and its aspect venerable, at the same time that it annually blooms and puts forth its small, shining, deciduous leaves. There are yellow and white varieties (both far from common), which may be grafted on the Single Pomegranate. Cut- tings strike freely, in heat. P. nana is a dwarf species, or variety, which comes to us from South America. An intermediate variety, P. nana racemosa, double, flowers more freely, and earlier. The Pomegranate does best in a substantial loam, that is at the same time rich and pervious to moisture, and is renewed at no long intervals. During growth, it must have frequent and copious water- ings. The bark of the roots, and the roots themselves, are in repute as a medicine against intestinal worms. Pgr us Japonica—Japan Pear,—which bears scarlet blossoms early in spring, is really a Quince, and is now removed to the genus Gydonia; but many real Pears de- serve culture as flowering-shrubs and trees. Of some, the 128 THE FLOWEE GABDEH. fruit is pretty, and good to eat, as in P. laccata, prrnu folia, and especially P. Astracanica. P. salicifolia, Sinaica (from Mount Sinai), and salvifolia—allied species, with woolly, light, and downy elongated leaves—have a pleasing effect. P. spectabilis, coronaria, and fioribunda, are exceedingly showy. Propagate by seeds, or by grafting on the Service, the Hawthorn, the Crab, the Wild Pear, or the Quince. The Service-trees and the Mountain Ashes have been removed from the Pears to the genus Sorbus. The common Mountain Ash, 8. aucuparia, i. e. Bird-catching Service (of which there is a weeping variety), is admired for its coral-red berries, as well as for its handsome foliage. The American Mountain Ash, 8. Americana, is robust and erect, with smaller and darker red fruit than the former. Those who have not the patience to raise them from seed, may graft on the White Thorn. If you sow the berries of the Mountain Ash in the chinks of rocks, years after- wards, when you have forgotten the circumstance, you will find an ornamental object growing on the spot. Some of the Services, again, are referred to the Haw- thorns, to which they are very nearly allied. The planters of shrubberies will do well to inspect a complete list of the genus Pyrus. Raspberry {Flowering).—See Bramble. Rhododendron — The Greek for Eose-tree.—Native evergreens of Europe, Asia, and America, whose best- known representative is perhaps R. Bonticum, from Asia Minor, and its very numerous varieties. Of late years, the genus has been greatly enlarged by the discoveries of Dr. Hooker in the Sikkim Himalaya mountains, whence he has introduced plants of extraordinary beauty, and from which every year exquisite varieties and hybrids are likely to result. Of these original species, R. Thompsonii is one of the handsomest shrubs ever introduced into Europe. In damp and shady situations, it attains a height of six feet or more. Its leaves are broad in proportion to their length, light-green above, Rnd somewhat glaucous beneath. Its large whole- SHRUBBY AND SUB-SHRUBBY BLOWERS. 12U coloured, bell-shaped flowers grow together in bunches of six or eight, and glow with the most vivid crimson. All the Rhododendrons are American plants, in the gar- dening sense; they have fibrous roots, which are seriously injured or killed by drought, and they must have some sort, or imitation, of heath-mould. "Where this is not to be had from a natural source, within a convenient dis- tance, a substitute may be manufactured by thoroughly combining silver-sand with leaf-mould, rotten sawdust, rotten tan, little bits of stick, and the refuse of a wood- stack charred in an oven to kill the insects, light loam, and vegetable refuse in which the seeds and creeping roots of weeds have been deprived of their troublesome vitality. [Rhododendrons must have a certain amount of shade ; and therefore, when not under lofty trees (which is their natural position), they do best with a north or north-east exposure. It is curious that several of the Sikkim species,—for instance, pendulum and Dalhousiee, are epiphytes; that is, they grow on the branches of trees, where their roots find support and nourishment by penetrating the moss and loose bark. Nevertheless, they grow well in pots, and in the open ground, in heath-mould, with good drainage at bottom, and a moist atmosphere above. As the hardiness of these novelties is scarcely yet ascertained with accuracy, it will be safer to house valuable specimens in a greenhouse in winter; still there is every reason to hope that they will be found to adapt themselves to the British climate, if proper attention be paid to their peculiar requirements of shade, a peaty soil, and a constant infiltration of moisture. At least they are well worth the risk of experiment. Thus, B. glaucum, light purple, grows in the clefts of rocks at an altitude of four thousand feet; B. lanatum has large leaves and light-yellow flowers with a bright orange spot and purple speckles within; B. triflorum has pale- yellow flowers, growing by threes at the tips of tho young shoots; B. Maddeni has large white blossoms delicately washed with pink outside ; B. argenteum is so named because its leaves, dark green above, are silver- K 130 i'HE ELOWEB GARDES. white beneath. The undeveloped flower-buds are pro- tected by membranous scales of a bright pink ; the pure white flowers form enormous bunches. These few are sufficient to give an idea of the obligations which gar- deners owe to Dr. Hooker. Other and older species are M. arboreum, cinnamomeum, roseum, maximum (greatest, rather a misnomer), and Catawbiense, with their very numerous offspring obtained from seed, and only to be propagated by extension. M. Vervceneanum, a fine variety raised by Monsieur Yervsene, has double flowers, light rosy-lilac speckled with yellow. The centre of each bloom is filled with tufts of stamens transformed into petals. It. ferrugineum and hirsutum claim our interest as natives of the Alps. It. Cfhamcecistus, from the mountains of the Tyrol, has bright flesh-coloured flowers, is the smallest of the genus, and far from the easiest to cultivate. All are naturally of hardy constitution, and accustomed to severity of weather at home; but they will not stand all Jcinds of winters. These nice peculiari- ties of atmospheric condition are what constitute the main difficulty in the culture of Alpine plants. At the first glance, it would be taken for granted that plants growing not far from the line of perpetual snow, must be easy to keep alive sheltered on the plain, where they are secure from snowdrifts and gusty winds ; but in practice, such is not found to be the case. Rhododen- drons are propagated by grafting and layering. The nicest plants are obtained from seed sown in pans of sifted heath-mould, pressed down with the hand, and kept equally and constantly moist till the seedlings have sprouted, which is effected by making the pans stand in other pans filled with water, and covered with a bell- glass or even a flat pane. In their second year, the plants are pricked out; two years afterwards, they are shifted to wider distances, where they remain till strong enough to take their final positions. The Rhododen- drons are very nearly allied to the Azaleas, and even hybridize with them. They bear transplantation well, f removed with a good ball of earth and well watered afterwards. SHBTfBBY AND STTB-SHBTTBBY YLOWEBS. 181 Biles.—The Latin generic name of the common Cur- rant and Gooseberry bush is now popularly used by gardeners to indicate the species with showy flowers and worthless fruit, mostly from California. R. sanguineum is widely spread, as is its variety with double flowers. It likes shade and a moist peaty soil. The Flowering Gooseberry, R. aureum, has golden-yellow flowers with bright red anthers. R. palmatum has longer flowers than the above. Between this and R. sanguineum, a hybrid, R. Gordonianum, with sterile nankin-coloured flowers, is supposed to have been originated. R. malvaceum, Mallow-leaved, and R. speciosum or fuschioides, Fuschia- flowered, and R. cereum, "Wax-leaved, floridum, multi- fiorum, and punctatum, are all equally hardy with the above. The ornamental Bibes do not bear indiscreet pruning, especially at bottom: they do much better grown as bushes than as standards^ and require to have their wood thinned out rather than shortened. They are increased without difficulty by suckers, layers, and cut- ' tings ; more slowly and more uncertainly by seeds. The Flowering Gooseberry likes a drier and more gravelly soil than R. sanguineum. When 'grown in pots and greenhouses, the flowers lose much of their fulness of colour, which requires the open air to reach its attainable depth and richness. Rose—Rosa.—Multitudinous in species, endless in variety. For any one in search of a floricultural fancy or hobby-horse, perhaps no better protege can be recom- mended than the genus Hose to take into favour. For, independent of all historical and poetical associations, and forgetting its sweet inoffensive perfume and its medicinal virtues, the Bose affords a subject for rivalry and exhibi- tion, with great diversity of form, colour, habit, and con- stitution. Although it is easy for those who have few horticultural appliances, to form a fine collection of hardy kinds, others, whose means put them in possession of frames, hothouses, and greenhouses, may extend their lists by tender sorts, equally charming and more rare,— may anticipate the summer's bloom, by forcing; may 132 THE FLOWER GARDEN. rescue autumnal buds, bj shelter, from perishing, and may enjoy the luxury of roses all the year round ; not, ae with Ranunculuses so treated, by a constant repetition of the same thing over and over again, but by bringing for- ward, in their natural order, a diversity of plants which have a tendency to bloom at different seasons. The sight of a well-kept Rosary in spring, summer, autumn, and winter, will convince you that the above remarks are founded on truth. Supposing that you consult the Gardener's Chronicle, and that you run your eye through the advertisements there, you will have met with several pressing invitations to visit, during their season, sundry fine collections of roses, all unrivalled ;—none but them- selves can be their parallel;—all in full bloom, and likely to continue so, till November comes to draggle their petals and scatter their leaves. Reversing the celebrated advice to persons about to marry—" Don't!"—I will take the liberty, when a Rose-hunt is talked of, of urgently insisting—"Do, do!" And do it fairly, with- out favour or partiality; go and see all the rose-gardens, or as many of them as you can possibly visit. Live on bread and water for a week, and work double tide's, rather than fail to pay your court to the Queen of the Bourbons, and The Queen, surrounded by their ladies of honour. It is worth while putting oneself a little out of one's way to inhale the perfumed breath and to gaze upon the blushing though highly-rouged cheeks of Madame Laffay, Madame Desprez, Lady Alice PeeV, and the Duchess of Sutherland, and to be interested by the tenderer, paler complexions of the Duchess of Orleans and Mrs. Bosanquet. The Souvenir of Malmaison will make you sigh with an emotion in which pleasure pre- dominates over painful recollections. Then, there are little round-faced pupils, to whom you might wish for an introduction, but who are still in their nursery—they have not yet come out. Some of these, if you treat them well, will supply you with bouquets nearly all the year round. But, leaving their budding innocence in retire- inent for the j ?esf at, start as soon as you can in search SHRUBBY AND SUB-SHRUBBY FLOWERS. 133 of a perfect rose, hoping one of these days to meet with, as we are promised, a Yellow Moss Perpetual; and give no just cause to Paul and Son, "Wood and Son, or Lane and Son, or Mitchell, or Clark, or Gfrier, or Bircham of Heden- ham, or others, for whose names there is no room in a brief prose rose-epic, to regard each other with sour and jealous looks, because you have favoured some with your presence and have slighted their competitors. Make a completerhodological tour, as far as lies within your power. You will find groups or classes of roses, with very dis- tinctive characters, which may be divided into Late- Spring and Summer Loses, and Autumnal and Winter Loses. Of the first, we have the Provence or Cabbage Pose, which is no other than the P. centifolia, or Hun- dred-leaved Lose, from the number of its petals, not its leaves. Of this there are several varieties in point of coloivr. The Queen oj Provence is paler and more lilacky than the common sort; the Scarlet Provence is merely a carmine-tinted flower. The TJnigue is a white Lose of extreme purity, probably proceeding from the Cabbage Lose by what is called " sporting," i.e. when a sucker or a branch of the original plant changes its character with- out assignable cause. These " sports" are only perpetu- ated by budding, grafting, or layering, and even then are far from permanent, showing a constant tendency to revert to the original type. Thus, on the same branch of the Unique you will sometimes have a completely red flower by the side of a white one. The Striped TJnigue has the petals exquisitely striped with pink, like those of a delicate tulip. This, too, is not to be depended upon for stability of character. Sometimes a bloom will come half white and half striped, sometimes half red and half striped, and occasionally half white and half red, without any stripes at all; and that perhaps on the very same bush. The Crested Provence, some- times erroneously called the Crested Moss, is very beauti- ful before it is fully expanded. It is in all respects like the Cabbage Lose, except that on the outer divisions ol the calyx there grows, not moss, but a kind of stiff irregu- 134 SHE FLOWES QAEDEE. lar fringe, very artificial yet tasty in its appearance. It looks as if some short, stiff, bright green seaweed had taken root outside the bud. Of course this supplemental ornament is lost to sight when the Rose is fully expanded. The above extremely pleasing varieties warn us how care- ful we ought to be in rejecting plants growing in old gardens, before we have seen with our own eyes what they actually are. The Crested is said to have been dis- covered growing from the crevice of a wall in Friburg, Switzerland; and the Unique was found by Mr. Grim- wood, then of the Kensington Nursery, in the garden of Mr. Richmond, a baker, living near Needham Market, Suffolk. Mr. Grinrwood asked for a branch, but obtained the entire plant, which was willingly given him. It ought to be added, that the following year Mr. Grim- wood, to his credit, made Mr. Richmond a present of a handsome silver cup, on which was engraved a figure of the rose. Two exquisite and delicate varieties, the Bath White Moss and the Pompon Moss, owe their discovery and preservation to persons who knew how to make use of their eyes, and had profitably studied " The Art of Seeing." There can be little doubt that many beautiful unknown flowers are trampled under-foot and destroyed, without an opportunity of displaying their merits, simply because some careless landlord, gardener, or in-coming tenant, happened first to behold them when they were not in bloom, or in leaf. The Cabbage Rose has produced dwarf varieties ; how, or where, we do not know. The Pose de Meaux and its still more diminutive sister the Pompon (Little Trinket) Rose, are miniatures of the Cabbage Provence, with the advantage that they bloom earlier, and so make elegant pot-plants for forcing. Sponges Rose is intermediate in size and stature between the Rose de Meaux and the Cabbage, but most resembles the former; it is cupped, with a full pink centre, the outer petals being lighter, and makes a beautiful little standard, budded low. The Dwarf Burgundy is another member of the same family, with cupped, deep-red double flowers, but a much less SHBTJBBY AWD STTB-SHBTTBBY YLOWEES. 135 abundant bloomer tban either of the above. The White Bwgundy, similar except in colour, is less frequently met with. All these Dwarf Roses must have a free rich loam; they have a great tendency to send up young wood annually from the roots, which young wood, principally, but not exclusively, bears the blooms of the following season, while the old wood becomes barren, sticky, and half-dead. Hence it is better to cut out the wood which has once flowered, without waiting for its natural decline, and also to remove the plants every second year, pruning them at the same time on this principle. To be sure, the treatment is a little troublesome; but it is the only way to prevent Pompons and Burgundies from getting rough and shabby. Por the same reason, standards of these Lilliputian Roses, though very pretty, are apt to be equally short-lived: they bloom well once, and then they go dead, unless they can be made to throw out vigorous young wood from the point where the original bud was inserted. Of the Moss Bose we are ignorant whence it comes ; we only know that it is nearly related to the Cabbage Provence, and that everybody admires it. The Bath White Moss greatly resembles it, with the exception of colour and a much more delicate habit. It is largely grown for the American market, where it is highly admired; but where it is probably even more short-lived than with us, for we can only keep it going by continually budding it afresh. Moss Unique is said to have been obtained from a Unique branch producing flowers adorned with moss. The branch was budded from, and the plants so propagated produced flowers retaining (with more or less certainty) their mossy characteristic. The Blush Moss is a beautiful rose, somewhat less fragile in constitution than the "White Bath. The Crimson Moss is handsome and vigorous; sometimes called the Unwell Moss, from having been raised at Tinwell, in Rutlandshire.. The Moss Pompon is a charming little pet, which requires every care to keep it in tolerable vigour. Zoe, or Mossy Partout, is so called because the leaves even? and the 136 THE EL0WEB ■ GABDEN. stalks and stems, are productive of the mossy excrescence. De La Fleche is the nearest approach to a Scarlet Moss. There are other Moss Eoses of the same type, hut these are among the best. Another set of Moss Eoses have more semi-double flowers, a more rampant growth, a tendency to flower twice during the summer, and to produce their bloom in numerous clusters. They are likewise well covered with moss, and are more beautiful in the bud than when full-blown. They have hardly a right to the title " Perpetual," although the Perpetual White Moss and the Perpetuelle Mauget (bright rose and hand- some, raised from the Crimson Perpetual) figure on the lists. Grood mosses of the same character as these, with- out any pretensions to perpetuity, are The Luxembourg, deep crimson, of vigorous growth; Ccelina or Selina, like the preceding, but darker in tint; and Qomtesse de Noe, bright crimson and purple, 'of good form and vigorous growth, with handsome dark-green foliage. The moss roses are budded as easily as others; only the spines and moss on the bark in the immediate neighbourhood of the bud, must be rubbed off by gentle side strokes, while the cutting from which they are taken is still fresh, and just before the operation is performed. They require a well- drained, deep, rich loam, which, at the same time, is never subject to drought and scalding, with plenty of sun and air. Under such conditions, the robuster varieties will luxuriate vigorously. Mr. Paul describes a pillar of the old Eed Moss attaining a height of fifteen feet, and although not well furnished with branches the whole height, some of the shoots of the previous year's growth were above six feet long, and the main stems had swelled to a considerable size. It is true that such gigantic stature is above the average, and is owing to the com- bined effects of soil, situation, age, and the fostering care of the cultivator; still, quite within the attainment of ordinary gardeners is a collection ot Moss Eoses, formed into pillars varying in height from six to eight feet. The above-mentioned kinds afford sufficient materials for ac- complishing the purpose. BHEUBBY A™ SUB-SHRUBBY FLOWERS. 137 The Double Yellow Cabbage Bose, or Yellow Provence >—B. sulpJiurea—approaches the Provence in name only, and in similarity of form of the expanded blossomj\being essentially alien in descent to that and most other roses. "When well bloomed it is a horticultural gem, but is so difficult to manage as to make it, in that case, a horti- cultural triumph. As to situation, I have never seen it blossom well, either in Britain or on the Continent, except when growing at the foot of a low wall, over the top of which it could straggle as it pleased; for it will not submit to pruning. It is one of the roses (among which are included the pretty little climbing JBanksias, with their white or nankin-coloured tufts of tiny violet- scented flowers) which cannot bear even the smell of cold steel. You might not unreasonably expect them to refuse to flower if you come near them with a knife in your pocket, even if you do not take it out and open it. You may get rid of their dead and used-up wood as well as you can, by breaking it off; but the effluvium of iron agrees not with their constitution. A south aspect does not suit the Cabbage Yellow, while plenty of evidence exists to prove that the best chances are had in the above-stated position, or some near approach to it. Mr. Paul tells us:—" At East Lodge, on Enfield Chase, there was a plant on its own roots, growing at a distance of about ten yards from a wall with a north-eastern aspect. It here produced its beautiful yellow blossoms abundantly, covering the bush on all sides, during the flowering season, for several successive years. This situation is high and exposed: the soil is naturally a heavy loam, but was some- what lightened and enriched by the frequent addition of stable manure . At Ballater, in Scotland, both this and the Austrian Bose flower beautifully. They grow there most luxuriantly, in a very exposed situation, covering a wall of great height and extent, laden with perfect flowers." Mr. Livers tells us:—" At Burleigh, the seat of the Marquis of Exeter, the effect of. situation on this rose is forcibly shown. A very old plant is growing against the southern wall of the mansion, in a confined situation, its root cramped by a stone pavement; it is weakly, and never shows a 138 THE ELOWEE GAEDEK". flower-bud. In the entrance-court is another plant, grow* ing in front of a low parapet-wall, in a good loamy soil and free airy exposure; this is in a state of the greatest luxuri- ance, and blooms in fine perfection nearly every season. M. Godefroy, a Trench nurseryman, has cultivated the Yellow Provence as a pillar rose in a free and open situation with much success. Surface manure in autumn, liquid manure in May, and summer pruning with finger and thumb, are indispensable details in his routine." The Yellow Cabbage will not bear the smoke of towns; nor has any good been done with it by budding, as far as has yet come to light. In unfavourable soils, it has been recommended to be budded on the Musk Hose, the Common China Hose, or on some free-growing Hybrid China; or to bud and graft it on short stems of the Bosa Manettii, to be afterwards planted in orchard- houses ; on all which, the only true commentary is com- prised in the words "but" and "perhaps." Possibly we have no congenial stocks on which to bud it, but must ransack the wilds of its native Persia to find them. Its delicate glaucous leaves and slender prickly twigs do not look as if they could find sympathetic support from any of the roses at present dwelling in Europe. In short, no system of culture has hitherto been hit upon which is certain to insure a successful issue. It is not quite clear that its dwarf variety, the Pompon Yellow, has ever opened its flowers in England. The Austrian Briar—P. lutea—takes after the Yellow Cabbage in its dislike to smoke, to pruning with a knife, and to being budded on other stocks. It likes a dry soil, and plenty of liberty for its branches to ramble. As yet, a double Austrian briar is a desideratum, which, enthusiasts tell us only bides its time. There are two varieties ; the most striking has large single blossoms, rich copper-colour within and yellow without; the petals of the other are of a bright canary-yellow, both on their upper and under surfaces. Harrison's Double Yellow Briar is a valuable Eose, bearing town-smoke a little better than the former, doing well budded on the Dog SHETTBBY AITD SUB-SHBTJBBY TLOWEBS. 130 Rose, and blooming botb freely and early. It is useful to constitute the attractive flower in the centre of a pretty bouquet. In pruning, thin out the twigs rather than shorten them: you will thus obtain a sort of weeping Rose. Harrisonii, as it is sometimes called, reached the Old "World from America. The Persian Yellow is also a beautiful semi-double briar, which was highly vaunted on its first introduction. It is questionable, however, whether it will supersede Harrison's. It has scarcely bloomed so freely, nor submitted to the restraints of pruning and the proximity of towns with so good a grace; but still deserves a fair trial and persevering attention on the part of the amateur. Persia has yet other Roses to send us, if some enterprising collector will only fetch them. The large species there called the Nustarund, which grows to a considerable height, throw- ing out garlands of highly-scented flowers, would be a valuable acquisition to our pleasure-grounds; the Mis- keeja is also a very pretty delicate cream-coloured Rose. Prom a red kind, highly scented, the best rose-water is distilled. The While Pose—P. alia—is the parent of a very distinct little party, recognisable by their grey glaucous leaves, their vigorous shoots, with smooth bark and stout thorns not too closely crowded, and their peculiar per- fume. They often make handsome plants in moderate- sized towns, grown on their own roots and trained against a wall, a large surface of which they will cover. The Old White is an early and a welcome rose; its semi-double and single varieties are often to be seen in out-of-the-way gardens and shrubberies, as if the plant had stolen away to the wilderness, and had resumed the habits of savage life. Everybody knows and loves the Maiden's Blush. Celestial is a very beautiful flower when half-opened; afterwards, its charms diminish. Madame Audot is a fine double creamy pink hybrid between the Alba and something else. Princesse Lam- lalle is a lovely pure white rose, sometimes delicately tinged with flesh. The Queen qf Denmark is another 140 THE ELOWEE GAEDEK. charming hybrid; La Seduisante is a fine flower, lly- brids from the "Wrote have produced several mottled roses ; amongst which are Madame Campan, Effie Learn, and Marie de Bourgogne. The Old White and the Maiden's Blush furnish excellent stocks to bud on. The French Lose—B. Gallica—a highly-scented species, of robust growth and thrifty habit, in any tolerable soil; is largely grown in the environs of Provins, in France, to make conserve; it is thence sometimes called the Bose de Provins, wbich has caused a confusion with Provence roses. A well-known type is the medical rose, grown for the apothecaries to dry and make decoction of roses with, and for the preparation of rose-water by distillers. Another wide-spread variety is the coarse, semi-double, striped rose, wrhich ought to be called Bosa- mond, or Bosa mundi, the World's Bose, though it is often wrongly styled the York and Lancaster. French roses will often succeed in towns. From them have been raised several beautiful striped and spotted varie- ties; as the Village Maid, Carnation, Abbesse, Luc d' Orleans Ponctuee, Harlequin, and others. The spots are less to be depended on than the stripes. Many of the French roses are admirable as exhibition flowers ; take as instances, Enchantress, light pink; HAguesscau, bright crimson, very large and full; Poula de Nanteuil, dark crimson; Kean, crimson-scarlet shading into purple ; Grandissima, rosy crimson; Briseis, brilliant rose; Comte Lacepede, rosy lilac; Gueriris Gift, vivid rose; Madame Lubarry, crimson-scarlet; (Eillet Elamand, distinctly striped with pink and rosy lilac; Pamela, large, rose, and very double; Tricolor, striped crimson and purple, of which there are several successive im- provements; Tuscany, dark velvety-crimson; and scores of others. The petals of the French roses are the best for making pot-pourri. In pruning, thin out the heads well, and shorten the shoots moderately. The nursery- men's catalogues of French roses are immense; but, as Mr. Bivers observes, " it is perfectly useless, in the present advauced state of rose-culture, to burden these SHRUBBY AND SUB-SHRUBBY FLOWERS. 141 ages with a long list of varieties which are, or ought to e, obsolete. Autumnal roses must very shortly entirely supersede all the summer roses, with the exception of a few select varieties of the Moss Eoseand, let me add, ihe Yellows, the Whites, and the Scotch. Damask Moses—M. Damascena—are of rough, twiggy, thorny habit, with light green, somewhat downy leaves, and hardy constitution. A good example is the true York and Lancaster, a double, flattish, striped rose, which occasionally produces blooms wholly white on one half of their area, and wholly red on the other, thus symboliz- ing the union of the Houses after the bloody wars of the White and Eed Eoses. They are fragrant flowers, but the bushes on their own roots are of irregular, scrubby, and inelegant growth. Budded as standards, they may be treated in the same way as the French Eoses. Show Damasks which deserve mention, are Madame Hardy, pure white, but with a green eye too conspicuous; Semi- ramis, fawn in the centre, shaded with glossy pink ; La Feroce, or Ferox, very large, full, pink flowers, with an extra allowance of thorns on the branches ; La Constance, or Fceony-jlowered, very large, flattish, full, pink, darker in the centre, makes a showy standard; La Ville de Bruxelles, pink, very large and double; La Cherie, delicate blush, cupped, very double; Madame Zoutman, delicate cream-colour; and Pulcherie, pure white. Do not prune these in too closely; let them run on, to form large heads, unless they are getting shabby and naked near the original bud. Scotch Eoses—M. spinosissima—have small leaflets, small twiggy branches thickly set with small spines, pro- ducing undersized, globular, double, aud semi-double flowers, sweetly scented, and blooming before summer roses in general. They have a great tendency to throw up suckers, which blossom profusely the following sum- mer; hence, some growers cut out the old wood annually, almost as strictly and completely as they would do with raspberry-canes. All the Scotch roses resemble each other very much in their habit of growth; they are less 142 THE EIOWER GARDEN. easy than other members of the same genus to distin- guish, when leafless in winter, by the aspect of the wood. A collection of the different varieties makes, therefore, a nice even hedge of roses, which only requires looking over once or twice a year to keep it compact and in order. Budded as standards, they make pleasing heads when full in bloom, but require considerable patience to prune, which must be done by thinning out rather than by cutting back. The blooms are better adapted for out- door enjoyment, and for bouquets, than for exhibition. A few distinct varieties are The Queen of May, blush ; True Yellow, a hybrid, sulphur-coloured fading to white; The King of Scotland, petals purplish red within, light with- out; Venus, dark and double; William TV., large white; Sulphurea, straw-coloured; Guy Mannering, double blush; La Neige, white and double; and Daphne, pink. The Stanwell Berpetual is a true Scotch rose, very light blush fading to white, sweetly scented, and the only one worth notice belonging to its group which is really what the French call a rose remontante, or ever-flowering rose. It begins as early as any of its brethren ; and the frosts are sure to destroy advancing buds, which would open in their turn, " weather permitting." It would be worth trying the Stanwell in plunged pots, to be transferred to the greenhouse at the approach of winter. The wild Sweet Briar—JR. rubiginosa—has been intro- duced to our pleasure-grounds for the exquisite fragance of its leaves; the flowers are scarcely more highly scented or prettier than .those of the common Dog Bose, JR. canine,, and in all cases where its blossoms have been improved by intentional or accidental hybridizing, or by the sporting either of germinating seedlings or suckers from old-established plants, the improvement has been obtained at a sacrifice of some good quality in the foliage ; such as diminished vigour and suppressed perfume. Those who like, may try the Carmine Sweet Briar, the Monstrous, the Scarlet or La Belle Distinguee, and the Splendid; but for the purpose for which Sweet Briars are grown, there is nothing to equal the Sweet Briar of the hedgo. SHttUBBY AND STTB-SHRTTBBY ELOtVEBS. 143 The above-mentioned (and there are none better) are quite worthless as exhibition, and nearly so as bouquet flowers. Hybrids from the Sweet Briars, whose flowers have any pretensions as roses, have their leaves nearly or quite scentless, and would not be suspected to come of odoriferous parentage. The Double Marginated Hip (there is a single one) has an abundance of small, tolc- rably double, creamy-white flowers edged with pink. Diego, light carmine, large and double, has all the air of a Hybrid China. Mr. Bivers advises to re-cross this with the Splendid Briar, in the laudable endeavour to produce seed from which large and very fragrant double roses might be obtained, partaking largely of the characters of the true Sweet Briar in other respects. It is only by these repeated attempts and approximations to a given model that floricultural perfection can be attained. On gazing at a lovely flower, or tasting an exquisite fruit, few persons dream of the patient years and skilful com- binations it has cost. The wild Sweet Briar is not to be recommended as a stock to bud on. Hybrid Doses, from and between the Provence, the Prench, the Damask, the Bourbon, the China, the Noisette, and others, have hitherto furnished the staple materials of our Horticultural Shows and our professed Bosaries. The climate of the Continent is better adapted than our own for the fertilization and ripening of hips; 2nd from thence the majority of new roses come; but still, those processes are not only possible, but many fine varieties have originated here. One curious fact thus demonstrated is, that in crosses between summer and ever-flowering or autumnal roses, the progeny is almost always a summer rose only, losing its power of con- tinuing in bloom during autumn. To obtain a hybrid perpetual rose, you must cross between two perpetual parents. Professed and long-experienced raisers of new varieties from seed have discovered other very curious facts and practical rules. Mr. Bivers instructs us that " when it is desirable the qualities of a favourite rose should preponderate, the petals of the flower to be 144 THE ELOWER GARDEN. fertilized must be opened gently with the fingers; a flower that will expand in the morning should be opened the afternoon or evening previous, and the anthers all removed with a pair of pointed scissors; the following morning, when this flower is fully expanded, it must be fertilized with a flower of some variety of which it is desired to have seedlings, partaking largely of its quali- ties. To exemplify this, we will suppose that a climbing Moss Eose with red or crimson flowers is wished for: the flowers of the Blush Ayrshire, which bears seed abundantly, may be selected, and, before expansion, the anthers removed; the following morning, or as soon after the operation as these flowers open, they should be fertilized with those of the Luxembourg Moss; if the operation succeed, seed will be procured from which the probability is, that a climbing rose will be produced, with the habit and the flower of the Moss Eose, or at least an approximation to them ; and as these hybrids often bear seed freely, by repeating the process with them the at present apparently remote chance of getting a climbing Moss Eose may be brought very near. It requires some watchfulness to open the petals of the expanding flower at the proper time: if too soon, the petals will be injured in forcing them open; and in hot weather in July, if delayed only an hour or two, the anthers will be found to have shed their pollen. To ascertain precisely when the pollen is in a fit state for transmission, a few of the anthers should be gently pressed with the finger and thumb ; if the yellow dust adheres to them, the operation may be performed; it requires close examination and some practice to know when the flower to be operated upon is m a fit state to receive the pollen; as a genera] rule, the flowers ought to be in the same state of expan- sion, or, in other words, about the same age. It is only in cases where it is wished for the qualities of a particular rose to predominate that the removal of the anthers of the rose to be fertilized is necessary. Thus, if a yellow climbing rose is desired by the union of the Yellow Briar With the Ayrshire, every anther should be removed from SHRUBBY AND SUB-SHRUBBY FLOWERS. 145 the latter, so that it is fertilized solely with the pollen of the former. In some cases, where it is desirable to have the qualities of both parents in an equal degree, the removal of the anthers need not take place; thus, 1 have found by removing them from the Luxembourg Moss, and fertilizing that rose with a dark variety of Bosa Gallica, that the features of the Moss Eose are totally lost in its offspring, and they become nearly pure varie- ties of Eosa Gallica; but if the anthers of the Moss Eose are left untouched, and it is fertilized with Eosa Gallica, interesting hybrids are the result, more or less mossy." By working out the foregoing hints, every intel- ligent rose amateur may aspire to the honour of raising some long-wished-for flower. But many handsome hybrid roses have been the result of accident; for instance, Eivers's George the Fourth, an English flower, very dark and velvety, raised from seed more than thirty years ago. The original plant is still living. Not to enter further into pedigrees, first-rate Hybrid Eoses are Brennus or Brutus, very large and double, uniformly tinted with bright crimson ; makes an admirable pillar, and is so vigorous as to form a tree if budded on a tall stout stock ; Brown's Sivperb Blush, very large and double, dark-crimson centre, with the outer petals blush, apt to fail by monstrosity in shape; Fanny Farissot, answers to the above description, but is more to be depended on; Chenedole brilliant red, large, double, very vigorous growth ; Blairii, No. 2, very large, blush, a free grower, with handsome foliage ; Beauty of Billiard, middle-sized, of compact form, colour like a burning coal, one of the most vivid roses existing, it actually shines as if it were on fire ; JDulce of Devonshire, rosy lilac, striped with white, well-shaped, imbricated; Hebe's Cup, or simple Hebe, full pink, large, cupped, a captivating flower in point of form and colour, but defi- cient in perfume,—a highly-scented perpetual Hebe would be a great acquisition; Bamarque, velvety crimson- purple, one of the darkest roses, should be shaded in hot sunshine ; New Globe Hip, white, at first tinged with the L 146 THE FLOWER QAEDEH". palest yellow, cupped ; IS Ingenue, creamy white, imbri* cated, ranunculus-shaped, the first flowers apt to come defective or monstrous; Triomphe I Angers, bright car- mine, large, cupped, of weak and rampant growth, adapted for a weeping standard; Bompone bicolor, small, very double, rich velvety crimson, apt to have an ugly green eye in the centre, vigorous growth; Tourterelle, bluish dove-colour, on the outer petals fading to slaty grey; Mordaunt Belaunay, pruned long or scarcely at all, produces garlands and bouquets of small blush roses fading to white, of very pleasing effect. The above may be depended on as excellent varieties. Of Climbing Boses, useful for pillars, temples, veran- dabs, and running over the front of a cottage, there are several groups The Boursault Boses, B. Alpina, the Alpine or Thomless Hoses, are very distinct. They are perfectly hardy, of exuberant growth if well fed, and afford a good foundation on which to bud other varieties, either as standards or trained against a wall. The Crimson Boursault, or Amadis, has an abundance and a long succession of semi-double effective flowers, and makes a gay covering for an arbour or a rustic arch. The Blush Boursault, or Calypso, or Be VIsle, or Florida, or the White Boursault, is still more rampant. Its perfect bloom is extremely beautiful, very double, of delicate texture, deep blush in the centre, shaded to white out- side; but the majority of flowers produced are imperfect and misshapen, as if some one had burst by a kick of the foot a cambric handkerchief rolled tight into a ball. These are the two leading types; other Boursaults are Brumnz&nd's Thomless, Elegans, Gracilis and Inermis, all of them different shades of rosy crimson and cherry- colour. As standards, they make enormous heads, which become pendent and weeping if allowed to run on. The Ayrshire Boses—B. arvensis—are nearly as vigo- rous as the preceding, quite as hardy, and will serve the same purpose. They are mostly shades of blush and white. Bosa Buga, or the Double Ayrshire, the Queen of the Belgians, the Du/ndee Bambler, and Splendens, are the best of these, and very elegant they are in their «jecwliar style. SHRUBBY AND SUB-SHRUBBY FLOWERS. 147 The Evergreen Roses—R. sempervirens—are named according to what we wish them to he, rather than to what they are. They have smooth, shining, handsome foliage, which looks as if it ought to be as evergreen as a laurel-leaf; and the habit of their growth gives you the idea that they certainly might flower all the autumn through. But they don't. The best of them is Pelicite Perpetuelle, an elegant climber, with clusters of small, very double, pinky white blossoms. Donna Maria is very pure white, as if the petals were made of rice-paper, with graceful foliage, but more tender than the above. Grown as weeping standards, they should be suffered to make a cataract of drooping branches, without restraint. Adelaide d' Orleans is not very, if at all, distinct from Felicite. Drunonii has the merit of being rosy-crimson. Beware how you prune any of the above. They may be made to climb up trees, like honeysuckle. Of the Prairie, or Bramble-leaved Rose,—R. rubifolia, —from North America, the best perhaps is the Queen oj the Prairies; but florists apologize for them, by stating that "the group is in its infancy." The Banksian Roses,—R. Banksice,—from China, white and yellow varieties, are half-hardy climbers which must have plenty of space to ramble over, and a sheltered situ- ation. If kept in bounds with the knife, they will only make the more wood, and won't flower. Dead wood and irregular shoots must be rectified with finger and thumb. In all the Banksias, the blossoms are very small, in clus- ters, and very fragrant. Were they hardy, they might be budded on the tallest procurable stocks, to make .trees of the magnitude of Weeping Ashes. For instance, at Toulon, there is a White Banksias which, in 1842, covered a wall 75 feet broad and 18 feet high; when in full flower, from April to May, there were not less than from. 50,000 to 60,000 flowers on it. At Caserta, near Naples, there is another plant of the same variety, which has climbed to the top of a poplar-tree sixty feet high. And at Goodrent, near Beading, there is a Yellow Banksiae which, in 1847, produced above two thousand trusses of 148 THE FLOWEE GAEDE2T. flowers, with from six to nine expanded Roses on each truss. The Many-jlowered Hoses,—R. multijlora,—from Japan and China, are very pleasing climbers, with numerous clusters of small flowers, of shades often changing and fading in the same cluster, from full pink to white. Unfortunately their hardihood is not to be depended on, and they can only be trusted as conservatory plants here, or to be budded and grown as standards in large pots. Beatuiful varieties are Grevillei or the Seven Sisters, Laure Fevoust, Rubra, Mlegans, and Alba, which will make a grateful return for whatever protection it may be thought fit to bestow upon them. Of Fortune's Yellow, the high-spirited traveller himself complains:—" In the first volume of the Journal of the Horticultural Society, I noticed the discovery and introduction of a very beautiful yellow or salmon- coloured rose. I had been much struck with the effects produced by it in the gardens of Northern China, where it was greatly prized, and I had no doubt that it would succeed equally well in this country. But from some cause—probably ignorance as to its habits, or the treatment required—my favourite "Wang-Jan-Ve, as the Chinese call it, was cried down. It had been planted in situations where it was either starved or burnt up ; and in return for such unkind treatment, the pretty exotic obstinately refused to produce any but poor miserable flowers. Then the learned in such matters pronounced it quite unworthy of a place in our gardens amongst English roses ; and I believe, in many instances, it was either allowed to die, or was dug up and thrown away. Five or six years had elapsed since the introduc- tion of this fine climber, and it had never been seen in its proper garb. But the results in two places proved it to be a rose nearly as rampant as the old Ayrshire, quite hardy, and covered from the middle of May with hundreds of large loose flowers, of every shade between a rich reddish-buff and a full copper-pink. The old standard plants in the open ground were one mass of SHRUBBY AND SUB-SHRUBBY PLOY?EES. 149 bloom, the heads of each being more than four feet through. The successful cultivators would inform you that no great amount of skill was necessary in order to bring the rose into this state. It is perfectly hardy, scrambling over old walls; but it requires a rich soil, and plenty of room to grow. The Chinese say that night-soil is one of the best manures to give it. Only fancy a wall completely covered with many hundred flowers, of various hues,—yellowish, salmon, and bronze- like, and then say what rose we have in the gardens of this country so striking ; and how great would have been the pity if an introduction of this kind had been lost, through the blighting influence of such ignorance and prejudice as have been shown by the person to whose care it was first intrusted." It would thus appear that even roses, at the commencement of a promising career, are subject to the ill-will of envious enemies, who try to put them down, and to keep them in the back- ground. Useful, hardy, and vigorous Hybrid Climbing Hoses, of unknown or uncertain origin, are Madame d'Arblay, or Wells's White, raised by Mr Wells, of Eedleaf, Tonbridge Wells, a blush rose, which attains a gigantic growth in strong soils; the Garland, changing from pink to white after expansion, also raised by Mr. Wells ; and Sir John Sebright, raised by Mr. Elvers from Italian seed, which produces an abundance of very fragrant flowers in large clusters, of a light vivid crimson, nearly double. The brilliant hue of the blooms of the last is rare and valu- able amongst Climbing Eoses, as their prevailing hues are white and pale pink. To the above may be added Astrolabe, with very double, compact, bright-rose flowers, and Watts's Climbing Provence, really a good flower, double, opening well, full pink with the slightest tinge of purple, and richly and somewhat peculiarly scented. There are several very distinct species of exquisite Eoses, from insular and continental Asia, which merit all attention as conservatory climbers, on trellises in 150 THE FLOWER GARDEN. large pots, or against a south wall, according to their degree of robustness ; hut they are none of them suited for wintering in the open garden. The White Chinese Anemone-flowered Hose (all that is simple and pure in bloom, and neat in foliage), is not sufficiently known to be appreciated. H. microphylla, or the small-leaved Hose, "a decided curiosity," accord- ing to Mr. Paul, bears most voluptuous rosy flowers amidst delicate foliage; yet it is, like the cuckoo-bird, seldom seen, though often heard of. " The leaves are composed of numerous small leaflets, sometimes as many as fifteen ranging on the sides of the petiole; the branches are of a whitish brown, the outer bark often peeling off in autumn. They are almost destitute of prickles ; but the broad sepals of the calyx are densely covered with them, owing to which the flower-buds are as rough as a hedgehog. The Microphylla appears to delight in a warm sandy soil; it is [more than] rather tender, and requires a wall to insure the production of its flowers in full beauty. It requires very little prun- ing. No varieties have yet been raised to surpass the original." The original single Hosa bracteata was brought from China by Lord Macartney, on his return from his em- bassy, and was, in consequence, named the Macartney Hose; this, though single, is showy, and very desirable for its apricot-like perfume, its ivory petals, its late period of flowering, and its singular, shining, evergreen foliage. It is somewhat hardier than the preceding Asiatic Poses, but still should be indulged with a trellis against a south wall. Maria Leonida corresponds to the above with considerable exactness, except that its creamy-white flowers are double. In fact, it is the Double Macartney: others have been raised, but they are not to be warmly recommended. Apropos of the Macartney, Mr. Eivers says, " I think it not too much to anticipate that, ultimately, we shall not be satisfied unless all our roses, even the Moss Poses, have ever- green foliage, brilliant and fragrant flowers, and the SHRUBBY AND SUB-SHRUBBY PLOWERS. 151 habit of blooming from June to November. This seems to be an extravagant anticipation; but perseverance in gardening will yet achieve wonders." The first Double Macartney raised from seed is totally worthless, its flowers constantly dropping off* without opening; while Maria Leonida is now an established favourite. R. ber- berifolia JHJardii is a most interesting rose, raised from seed by M. Hardy, of the Luxembourg Gardens, from R. involucrata, a variety of JR. bracteata, fertilized with that unique rose, R. berberifolia, or the Single Yellow Persian Eose. This curious hybrid, like its Persian parent, has single bright-yellow flowers with a dark eye, a deep- chocolate spot at the bottom of each petal, much like Cistus formosus, and evergreen foliage. It is not quite hardy. It will probably be the parent of an entirely new group ; and what can be imagined more interesting in roses than varieties with double yellow flowers and evergreen leaves ? Autumnal and Winter Eoses may be divided into two grand battalions,—the perfectly hardy and hard-wooded kinds, of stiff and moderate growth; and the free-growing, softer-wooded sorts, tenderer in various degrees, accord- ing to constitution,comprising the Noisettes, the JBourbons, the Chinese, the Tea-scented, and the Fairy or Laurencean Roses. Of the former, the Scotch Stanwell Perpetual has been mentioned. A first-rate flower is The Crimson Perpetual, or Rose du Roi, or Lee's Crimson Perpetual, perfect in form, full pink, finely scented. It requires cutting back freely every year, and highly-manured soil, as do all the autumnals. The reputed parent of this great beauty is the Portland, or Pcestan, or Four Seasons Rose, a bright semi-double fragrant flower, which deserves cultivation, as it will put forth welcome blooms in November. JELybrid Perpetuals are more in number than excellence; to open well, they must not be too double, and' the petals must have a peculiar texture; otherwise they are glued together by the dews and rain ; and the blooms, instead of ex- panding, fall off in the shape of a mouldy ball. This is 152 THE FLOWER GARDEH. the great fault of The Queen (a fine flower) in the climate of England. Madame La fay and Prince Albert, both crimson, are good. Julie de Frudner and La Favorite are delicate pink, fragrant, and pretty. Celina Bubos, nearly white, deserves favour, as a sporting branch from the Crimson Perpetual. The Geant des Batailles, deep bright crimson; Gomte Bobrinsky, vivid scarlet; Gloire de Posomanes, velvety crimson-scarlet; Gomte de Man- ialivet, violet and red ; Sir John Franklin, Gloire de la France, Paronne Hallez, Alexandrine Bachmeteff, Paul Buprez, Triomphe de Paris, and General Gastellane, all rich crimson; Jules Margottin and Lady Alice Peel, cherry-colour, are all admirable. The Bourbon Poses, derived from the original bright pink, semi-double Lie de Bourbon, are very persevering bloomers, with handsome foliage, of free growtli mostly. The following will give satisfaction :—Madame Besprez, double, pink, globular, in clusters, with very vigorous growth, and of great hardihood,—a most useful rose, either for a standard, a wall, or a pillar ; Souvenir de Malmaison, a magnificent flesh-coloured vigorous rose ; The Queen of the Bourbons, delicate pinky buff, double, and very fra- grant; Paul Joseph, rich dark crimson, a remarkable flower, of moderate growth, thriving best as a dwarf; Acidalie, white; Menoux, carmine; Dupetit Thours and La Quintinie, dark crimson. The Noisette Poses, whose original, the Blush, was raised from American seed, are named after the Erench nurseryman to whom they owe their introduction. The Blush met at first with undue favour ; in this country it opens badly in damp weather, and is injured by severe winters, as are most of its progeny. They are free growers, bloom abundantly and late, but are mostly deh- cient in odour. Glood varieties are:—Aimee Vibert, pure white, with glossy light-green foliage; Fellenberg, semi- double, bright cherry; Jaune Besprez, fawn-coloured or salmon-pink, very rampant in growth, should have its spring shoots stopped when about two feet long, very fragrant, rather tender, safest against a wall; La Biche, SURE BUY AND SUB-SHRUBBY FLOWERS. 153 large and white; Lamaryue, pale straw-colour; Cloth of Gold, or Chromatella, creamy white with yellow centre ; Sir Walter Scott, rosy lilac; Solfaterre, creamy white, with a bright sulphur centre ; besides others, as Octavie, Ophirie, Cerise, and Vicomtesse d'Avesne. Many of the latest-flowering Noisettes are loose in their blooms, which is a merit in them, as they ope"n with less difficulty. In- experienced gardeners are apt to prune their Noisettes, and other vigorous-growing roses, too freely ; if cut back too severely, they will produce foliage instead of flowers, year after year. Instances of the effects of such ill- treatment may be seen in the suburban villas that sur- round large cities, where people get ignorant jobbing gardeners to prune their roses by the year, the result being a collection of verdant standards with flowers to be hoped for when the good time comes. Those invaluable roses the Common Pink China, or Monthly Hose, It. Indica, and the Crimson China, P. semperflorens, whose flowers grace the cottage-garden nearly all the year round, have given birth to numerous beautiful offspring, which are more adapted for pot-plants, or for bedding, than as standards. Many of them, though hardy at root, are cut down to the ground by severe frost, or if not so cut down, require close pruning. Against a wall they will often cover a considerable area. Alba, white, double; Cramoisie Fblouissante, vivid crimson; Fabrier, crimson scarlet; Belle Fmelie, blush; Madame Breon, rich rose; Mrs. Bosanquet, blush; Fugene Beau- harnais, rosy purple; Clara Sylvain and Madame Bureau, white; Carmin Superbe, or I Yebles, raised by M. Desprez, deep carmine; and Prince Charles, brilliant crimson, will constitute a good and select collection. The Blush was the first Tea-scented China Pose—B. Indica odorata—introduced to this country, followed by the Yellow China. They are good; and we now have others of great excellence. All are more fitted for pots and greenhouses than for out-door culture; they are grateful for light rich soil, good drainage, warmth accom- panied by moisture, an atmosphere not liable to extremes 154 THE FLOWER GARCE2T. of temperature, and bold yet judicious pruning. When they can be grown outdoors in a south border, there is a perceptible heightening of their tints and perfume. Choice varieties are Devoniensis, creamy white, raised by Mr. Foster, of Plymouth; Safrano, pale yellowish buff; Souvenir d'un Ami, rosy salmon; Adam, ditto, very superb; Ooulault, bright pink, very sweet; Bougere, deep salmon, a good pot-rose, forces well; Vicomtesse de Gazes, bright orange-yellow, very beautiful ; Moiret, yellowish fawn; Elise Sauvage, pale yellow; Josephine Malton, rich cream-colour; and La Renommee, white, with a pale-lemon centre. These are the roses to culti- vate in frames and greenhouses, for late-autumn, winter, and early spring. Some (as Barhot, cream, suffused with rose and salmon; Brincesse Marie, rosy pink; Heine des Beiges, Brincesse Helene, and others) force well, although uncertain (that is, certain to fail) out of doors. They give a little trouble to grow them well; but then, how lovely and exquisite they are ! The Fairy or Miniature Roses are the Pompons of the China group. They may be made to serve as an edging, in favourable spots; in that case, cut them back to within two inches of the ground every spring. In pots they must be cut back freely; quite to the ground every other year, and shifted. The young wood will make handsome little bushes, and bear abundant bloom in long succession. The Blush, or Fairy, is the most generally cultivated; Alba, Blanc, or the White Fairy, is still smaller, but delicate; La Besiree is crimson; Bompon Bijou, pale pink; Gloire des Laurenceanas is dark crim- son, and contrasts well with the above. All roses, to do themselves justice, must have a rich soil; many are even gross feeders. The hardier and robuster kinds do well in deep alluvial loams, and will not object to heavy clayey land if well manured, and not too wet and cold. The Chinas, and many of the Hybrids, when on their own roots, must have a lighter, warmer, better-drained soil, with a c.onsiderable proportion of sand and rotten animal and vegetable remains. In theory, all SHBUBBY AND STJB-SHEUBBY FLOWEES. 155 roses may be propagated by cuttings; in practice, non- professional gardeners find certain kinds, such as the Mosses, the Provence, and the Cabbage Yellow, of a difficulty which approaches the impossible. Many Hybrids, the Bourbons, the Chinas, the Noisettes, and others, strike readily, especially if assisted by a hand-light and bottom-heat. Species, like the Cabbage Yellow, which will neither bud nor strike well, must be increased by layers, the shoot being "tongued." The grafting of roses is mostly practised by market-gardeners, for forcing for sale. Immediately the stocks are taken from the hedges in January or February, they may be grafted and potted in the forcing-house, or in a gentle hotbed in a common frame. But by far the most prevalent mode of propagation is by budding on the Rosa Canina, or common Dog Hose, which is much the best for general purposes. Others, as the Rosa Manettii (a rampant variety raised in Italy), the Boursaults, the R. alba, and the Common, China, have been recommended for special purposes by high authority; in which advice the writer takes the liberty of cautioning the reader not to place too much confidence. The robust "Bed, Bed Bose" of Scotland, which grows so vigorously in the valleys of the Grampians, merits a fair and extensive trial as a stock whereon to bud vigorous varieties. "Wild rose stocks are now an article of commerce. By giving an order to proper persons, you may obtain a supply to any reason- able amount. The nearer home they are found, and the sooner they are replanted in your nursery the better November is the month of months for the purpose. Let them be clean-stemmed, well-rooted, and taken from ar exposed situation. Bemove all straggling roots and whatever is likely to sprout into suckers. Plant them at exactly the same depth as you observe them to have grown in their native site. Fasten each individual stock either to a stake of its own, or to a long horizontal twig supported at each end by two upright posts. In spring, watch the swelling buds that show themselves the whole way up the stem. When they are about a quarter of an 15G TOE ELOWEK GAEDEH. inch long, cut off all but two, which will be allowed to grow, to be budded, at the height required, selecting strong healthy buds, as near to and as opposite to each other as possible. Into these the whole vigour of the briar will be directed. Budding may be performed from June to September. Suppose that in July, after a thunderstorm, you receive a twig of a matchless rose. Take it in your left hand; look out for a plump, healthy, dormant bud; cut off the leaf, leaving half an inch of the footstalk; insert your knife a quarter or a third of an inch above the bud; cut down- wards, and bring it out a quarter of an inch below; remove with your thumb-nail the woody portion, leaving a small shield of bark with a bud in the centre. This is the bud you want to make grow on your briar. To keep it moist, while you are preparing its new resting-place, you may drop it, if you like, into a glass of water; a snugger and more convenient receptacle is at hand—your mouth.. Mr. Eivers says:—" The operation of budding is difficult to describe. A longitudinal cut, not so deep as to cut into the wood, but merely through the bark, should be made in the clear part of the shoot; thus, A., making the diagonal cut at the top of the incision. I differ from most of those who have given directions for budding, as they make the incision thus, T; my practice has arisen from the frequent inconvenience sustained by shoots, from standard stocks being broken off by the wind when the cut is made at right angles: with the diagonal in- cision an accident rarely happens." Any suggestion from Mr. Eivers demands respectful attention; it is therefore mentioned here, before proceeding with out s>wn instructions. On the branch to be budded, make two slits in the bark like the two straight lines which form the letter T. The perpendicular stroke will run along the branch, and terminate where it springs from the main stem ; it must be a little longer than the bud you intend to insert. The horizontal stroke will be formed by a cut across the branch, and must be a little wider than the bud you want flHETTBBY AND SDB-SHBUBBY FLOWEES. to put in. You must just cut through the bark, without dividing the wood beneath. Cut those slits with a pen- knife on a piece of paper, or on any fresh twig whose bark peels readily, and you will instantly see what their object is. "With the handle of your budding-knife, gently push or lift the bark on each side of the perpendicular slit, or stem of the T, so as to cause it to rise. Or, you may do it with your thumb-nails. As fingers were made before knives and forks, so thumb-nails were invented before ivory-handled budding-knives. Do nothing that can injure or irritate the interior of the wound. If you poke inside it for half an hour, and plough up the skin, you will injure its delicate organization, and in nine cases out of ten you may whistle for your bud. Instead of that, the bark once raised, take the bud out of your mouth, and slip it in gently till it reaches its place. Be as quick as if you wished to spare your patient's suffer- ings. It is really a surgical operation. The bud once settled between the divided bark, bind up the wound with a ligature of softest lamb's wool. Mr. Bivers advises cotton twist, such as the tallow-chandlers use for the wicks of candles ; the finest quality is best. This is certainly far preferable to the bast matting commonly used; but, with deference to that gentleman, not to lamb's wool, which is more elastic than cotton twist. If you have not been clumsy, the bud will grow ; and then you must unbind it, and let nothing else grow on the briar either at top or bottom. At the end of two or three summers you will have a handsome-headed rose- tree, from which you may gather basketfuls of bouquets, if you prune it properly,—which sometimes consists in abstaining from pruning it. Por more about the Bose, see " Paul's Bose Garaen," and Bivers's " Bose Amateur's Guide." Distilled rose-water is an excellent wash when the eyes, not the eyelids, are inflamed by cold winds and dust. Syrinya—Mock orange, Philadelphus coronarius.—A bush, with deciduous leaves white strong-scented flowers, mostly propagated by suckers. 158 THE FLOWER GARDEN". Tecoma radicans—Trumpet-flower, a vigorous creeper, with bunches of long chinabar-red flowers. Must have a south aspect, is best propagated by cuttings from the root. Virgin's Bower—Clematis montana, Viticella, and its varieties, are hardy climbers, pretty when trained over lattice-work, and grow easily from cuttings. Wallflower—Cheiranthus Cheiri.—The single varieties, which are the most odoriferous, are raised from seed. There are yellow, brown, and purple Double "Wallflowers, propagated by cuttings; severe frost kills them. To make sure, choice large-flowered single kinds may also be increased by cuttings. Keep a reserve of cuttings in pots every winter. Weigela Bosea—A charming, perfectly hardy, wide- spreading shrub, from China, covered in spring with gay pink flowers. A great acquisition. Mostly propagated by layers. Winter Flower.—Chimonanthus fragrans, from Japan, whose sweet-scented flowers appear before the leaves. Wistaria—Purple Laburnum.—Half-hardy trailing shrubs, requiring the support of a wall, producing in spring drooping racemes of light-purple or lilac sweet- scented flowers. In light rich soil, sometimes flowers twice a year. Yucca—Adam's Needle.—In appearance, something between dwarf Palm-trees and Aloes, with evergreen leaves, and white flowers borne in enormous numbers on tall flower-stems. T. gloriosa, filamentosa, and draconis, are hardy in England. Propagate by seed and by rooted sucker-sprouts. ANNUAL FLOWERS. These, with biennials, and bedding-plants, constitute a legion ot auxiliaries, which help to keep the garden gay. There is no room here except to mention the names of Amaranth, Aster, Balsam, Convolvolus, Coreopsis, ClarTcia, Cuphceat Gillia, HawJcweed, Heliotrope, Hibiscus Trio• FLOWERING TREES. 159 num, Hound's-tongue, Honesty, Jacobcea, Lupine, Love- in-a-Mist, Larkspur, Love-lies-bleeding, Marigold, Marvel of Leru, Mallow, Mignonnette, Nemophila, Nolana, Lea, Letunia, Loppy, Ricinus, Sohizanthus, Salpiglossis, Stocks, Stramonium, Sunflower, Spurge, Tobacco, Vetch, Venus'a Looking-glass, Verbena, Virginian Stock,. Zinnia. The nurserymen annually put forth, most admirable and tempting lists, from which to select. There is also amusement to he derived from not selecting, hut to take your chance of what you get. Thus, Thomas Yeitch and Co., "Western Counties Seed Depot, 195, High Street, Exeter, offer Collections of Pretty Elower-Seeds, in twelve varieties, at one, two, and three shillings the collection, according to quality and quantity. Some of the Catalogues are really worth reading, for instruction's Bake. ELOWERING TREES. Acacia, Almond {Double and Single), Arbutus, Catalpa, Cherry {Double), Crabs, Elder, Horse-Chesnut, Judas Tree, Magnolia, Mountain Ash, Laulownia, Leach {Double and Weeping), Robinia, Snowdrop-tree, Sophor The Thorns, Tulip-tree, and others. THE CALENDAR: MONTHLY HINTS IN FLORICULTURE. OCTOBEK. If you enter upon a new tenancy, and are become the possessor of an old-established garden, in the first place look carefully round, to see what you have visible in it; and, secondly, delay any great changes or clearances till at least six or eight months have elapsed, and spring and summer shall have made you acquainted with whatever treasures may now lie concealed underground. Often, by forbearance in such cases, you become the master of specimens that would cost you years and years to rear; and sometimes, by merely turning the earth of an ancient border, you bring to light and vitality the seeds of rare plants that have lain buried for years. Eead carefully the Calendar to our " Kitchen Garden." Plant hya- cinths and other bulbs, if you did not do so last month. Look to your chrysanthemums in pots; see that they are regularly watered and neatly sticked, ready to be brought indoors at the first threat of a frosty night. Cut half-opened chrysanthemum-blooms, a few from each variety you have; reserve them in water, under shelter and warmth, and you may often produce a handsome bouquet when outdoor flowers are completely destroyed. Lay out all your planting arrangements for next month; prepare the holes, where the ground is vacant, and have ready the requisite soils and manures. Cut down dahlia- stems as soon as the frost has blackened them; leave the tubers a little longer in the ground, to ripen. Clear away the leaves and stems of tender annuals as soon as they have shared the fate of the dahlias; chrysan- 161 themums, evergreens, and berry-bearing shrubs, will then show themselves to advantage. Save any well- ripened seed you may find; it will increase your stock of gardening capital. Sow annuals, such as Nemophilas, to stand the winter, and flower in spring. Pot off sepa- rately cuttings that have been struck during summer, whether they are to be wintered in a cold frame, or whether they are to be forced for spring flowers, such as China and tea-scented roses, double wall-flowers, calceo- larias, winter jessamine, and Deutzias. Provide instantly comfortable lodgings for such greenhouse plants, out in beds, as you do not mean to abandon to the mercies of Old Pather Nipnose; and remove them forthwith to their winter quarters. Look to your spouts and gutters over- head, and see that your drains do their underground work. Do not forget that heliotropes, verbenas, and their like, are liable to the disease of " damping off." Take up gladiolus, tigridia, and other tender bulbs. NOVEMBEK. Employ the long evenings in studying books, pam- phlets, and periodicals connected with your profession. There is no royal road to floriculture; a poet may be lorn, but a gardener is made such. Keep an eye on your natives from the Island of Tender. Eemove the earth from the ground which any projected American bed is to occupy, with the intention of filling the hollow with heath-mould when frosty weather comes to help your carting. Plant everything hardy; roses, flowering shrubs, flowering trees, evergreens, edgings, herbaceous peren- nials, and whatever will stand the winter. Take up dahlia-roots, and house them in a cellar secure from frost. Think of whatever dielytras, bulbs, polygalas, azaleas, moss roses, and the rest of it, which you may want to force, so as to have in flower in the course of March. Let all pots and pans, which have been used during summer and are now enjoying their holidays, be well washed and scrubbed with a brush, and then set to dry M 162 THE ELOWER GARDEN. in an oven tot enough to bake all the germs of weeds, insects, and moss; let them then take their rest in a recumbent position, one within the other, not standing upright. Plant tulip-beds. Mulch liberally the roots of whatever you merely suspect will be the better for it, whether passion-flowers, Tecomias, Brugmansias, Macartney microphylla and multiflora roses, or clianthus and hibiscus; if you can thereby save and secure only one fine specimen out of half a dozen, you will be amply rewarded. Sweep up leaves from your walks and grass- plots, as if you were afraid you should never, never have leaf-mould enough. Dragging a garden-roll is capital gymnastic exercise; and your grass-plots and gravel- walks will be very much the better for it. Carefully cultivate thq foliage of Cape bulbs and others that have flowered in autumn. See that such plants as take their rest now, be allowed to enjoy it undisturbed, without having their slumbers broken by unnecessary warmth and moisture; on the other hand, administer moderate refreshment and heat to such, as the cyclamens, which, are beginning to wake up. Lay down turf for lawns and grass edgings. Put a covering of dead leaves, fern, furze, or light litter, over whatever wants it out of doors. Mind your Alpines. Give all the air you can at every favourable quarter of an hour. Keep grass short; you will sweep up your rubbish all the more easily. Stake and tie new-planted strangers : they are none the better for being rocked about by the wind. Trench and manure ground for next year's gross feeders, such as hollyhocks, dahlias, and perpetual roses. DECEMBER. Procure and plant rose-stocks for budding. See that they have wrell-ripened wood, of whatever species they may be. If of the common dog-rose, prefer such as have grown in exposed situations, to the smooth green stems drawn up under trees. A garden may be enjoyed in winter as well as in summer—think of that THE CALENDAR. 163 Tidiness is the first point of comfort in a pleasure- ground ; after rightsiding everything, try what show you can make with evergreens and Christmas favourites "What is the condition of your hepaticas, winter aconites, snowdrops, crocuses, Christmas roses, and Mediterra- nean heaths ? Have you the Winter Jessamine, the Chimonanthus fragrans, and the Vernal Squill ? Will you want any cinerarias, Chinese primroses, forced bulbs, or camellias, for the drawing-room P Vou may prune now hardy roses,—the moss, Provence, Gal- lica, damask, Scotch, crimson perpetuals, and other equally robust kinds; leave the rest, to see how they look at the end of Pebruary. Moss is a good covering for the roots of tender things. Are your alterations nearly finished ? Dress well, and dig deep, beds that have been hard cropped with flowers during the current year; the parterre must have manure and rotation of crops, as well as the wheat-field. Cover your frames with mats and boards, if the frost comes sharp. Divide and transplant stools of herbaceous perennials, such as rockets and salvias, which have already flowered finely, and have been admired, and which will not bloom finely nor be admired twice in the same place ; if you don't, where you once had a beauty, you will next time have a symbol of shabbiness and neglect. Moots grow now, though leaves may grow little, or not at all; a plant will bloom all the better if, in spring, it finds itself provided with a nice tuft of fibrous roots, than if, when spring is arrived, those desirable fibres are still to be formed, Sort your seeds; look over your tubers ; exchange with your neighbours ; study your Chronicle; sing the air of "Away with melancholy!" to ths words of "Away with damp and mildew ! " Restrain rampant stragglers, and throw them into flower by roetf-pruning, leaving the tops much as they are. Manufacture heath-mould for your Americans, if none is to be had within reasonable carting distance. Pay frequent visits to your specimen- plants, whether in the open air or under shelter; large myrtles, in tubs, may be wintered in a coach-house, if m 2 164. ^nE FLOWER <3ARBEIT. allowed to enjoy all the light and air admissible. Prepare sticks and stakes, and repair trellises, verandahs, lattice- work, rock-work, and arbours, now that the plants which decorate them are dormant. JANUAKY. The work now mainly depends on the weather; but N.B. you have not so much time before you as you had in December. Look over your cold frames ; give all the air you dare, and dust with flowers of sulphur at the first symptom of mildew. Your hyacinths in pots will be starting. Look sharp after wood-lice, slugs, and aphides; an ounce or two of Scotch snuff are well bestowed in doctoring the last. " Slow and sure " is the motto to affix over the portal of the forcing department. How are you off for silver-sand, pasture-loam, rotted cow, sheep, and rabbit manure, peat-earth, defunct and cold cucumber-beds, and good alluvial loam with a touch of clay in it ? For horses, shut up in their stables during this dead season, slow carting is a healthy treat. "What is the substance which Liebig and other learned men call "humus," and the French gardeners style "ter- reau?" What are its composition, uses, and appliea- tion ? Do you think you could contrive to compound a little " humus P " If a supply of it had not been made by somebody before your time, horticultural prospects would not look so bright as they do. See to your supply of pots, pegs, and labels. Thin out flowering shrubs, where too crowded. Keep everything indoors fresh, neat, dry, and well ventilated; under cover, at least, you may do nearly as you please. Call over your muster-roll for next summer's campaign; nurse the invalids in hospi- ml, take care of the healthy, train the undisciplined, keep down the upstarts, restrain the wanderers without being afraid of pinching them hard, bury the dead decently, and raise up a new generation with all your might and main. Don't work the ground when it is sodden, muddy, or rendered sticky by a recent frost; tub calendak. 105 don't dig m snow or ice, for they will chill your borders for weeks to come. Level turf, where its unevenness threatens to interfere with mowing. Protect tulip-beds where the leaves are beginning to peep aboveground; also autumn-planted ranunculuses; hyacinths likewise. Cover them with hoops and mats, or canvass, when frost threatens to be at all severe. Don't suffer snow to lie on your walks. Search for the winter sleeping-places of snails. Air, cleanliness, and shelter from excessive wet, are necessary to the health of Carnations and Picotees. Think well what you mean to do next spring, and arrange accordingly; observe in which department you are strongest; endeavour to improve that to the utmost; make it your war-horse, your charger, your show collec- tion, your speciality. PEBEUAEY. Pbune and tie in climbers on walls and trellises, such as honeysuckles, clematises, birthworts, and American allspices. Plant ranunculus-beds. Sow sand on lawns, to make the grass come fine; roll them, to kill moss ,• mow them, to make them thick and elastic. Look over your Noisette, Bourbon, HybrisUChina, and other free- growing autumnal roses; prune them moderately, thin- ning them out, but leaving the principal shoots long. Pray don't cut them back to two or three eyes, unless you pre- fer leaves to flowers. Now is the last time of asking, for planting ornamental trees and shrubs. Make sure that your supply of bedding-plants is likely to correspond to the demand for them. Eemove dahlia-roots from their winter quarters, and put them into heat for propagation. Sow in small pots Maurandyas, Lophospermums, and other climbing annuals, to get strong by May. Do the same with sweet-peas, scarlet-runners, major convolvo- luses, nasturtiums, and other less rare but popular flowers. Einish off every atom of undone winter work, and keep that belonging to spring close up to the mark, that you may have your hands at liberty to answer the 16G THE ELOWEE GAEEE7T. requirements of April, May, and June, when you will want every day to be six-and-thirty hours long. Make hotbeds for tender annuals ; the list is long. Select a few striking, effective, unusual kinds, and display them in a large assemblage, rather than fritter away your strength on a multitude of incongruities. The ice- plant makes a remarkable bed in a south border; zinnias, balsams, and ipomceas, are good in their way. Trim grass edgings with a proper cutter; fill up any vacant gaps in borders of thrift, gentianella, dwarf campanula, double daisies, primroses, sedums, &c. Plant out seed- ling hollyhocks, in well-manured ground, where they are to bloom ; strike cuttings of approved sorts. Never, for a single instant, forget the vast abyss of flowering plants which you will shortly be compelled to fill somehow, well or ill. If any choice novelties have lately come out, and are likely to be the rage, now is the time to make sure of them; by-and-by you may have for answer to your application, that " the execution of further orders must stand over till the following spring." Bedding-plants, propagated by yourself on the spot, in gentle heat, are worth double the number travelling f'.cm a distance, and forced at a high-pressure rate. MAECIT. Keep an eye on the jobbing gardener who undertakes to " right-side " your suburban parterre in spring; take care that he does not make it neat by making it empty; that the beds, which he leaves so beautifully raked, have nothing but rubbish growing in them. Hard winters do not cause the disappearance of all choice flowers. Clip box edges at the beginning of the month, supposing that it is not freezing sharp ; turn a deaf ear to those who advise you to do it in June, or, infinitely worse, in September. Do all you can to remedy the ill effects of February's sleet, slop, and rain. You may plunge in borders, or in beds (to be filled hereafter with scarlet geraniums, or verbenas), hyacinths, and tulips, and THE CALEKDAE. 167 narcissuses in pots; they may be removed to perfect their foliage in the reserve ground. Hardy annuals may now be sown in favourable weather. Take stock, as it were, and appreciate accurately all your resources m hand. Auriculas will now be coming forward; give them a more liberal allowance of air and water. Tree Pseonies require temporary shelter in this month and the next, if at any time. Prepare the ground for dahlias, by digging it deep and manuring highly. Your stocks, China-asters, &c. &c., may now be sown under glass on a gentle hotbed. Pinish pruning; cut your roses close to an eye by a clean stroke with a sharp knife, so as not to tear the bark. Above all, do not leave a long snag to die down to the bud; the hollow left by its pith will serve as the retreat and resting- place of the detestable grubs which will destroy your buds. If your gardener prunes a standard-rose, or any other ornamental shrub, with a pair of shears, or slashes at them with a carving-knife, like a Prench Zouave paying his compliments to a party of skirmishing Cos- sacks,—for the first offence, make your shrub-slayer a present of an excellent buckhorn-handled pruning- knife ; for the second, turn him out of doors, " to seek a shelter in an humbler shed." Disbud dog-rose stocks, leaving only those buds to shoot on which you intend to insert your bud. A covering of old fish-net, supported by hoops, over tulip, ranunculus, and hyacinth beds, does no harm. Have a peep at Kew, Chiswick, the Regent's-Park Botanical, and the leading nurserymen about London. Let your gardener go too, if he is wide awake at the times when his eyes are usually open. But it is possible to visit even Kew, and to come away with a vague impression that it is a place where a few green- houses and hothouses are open to the public, gratis. 168 THE PLOWED GAEDEH. APEIL. Make everything smart to welcome summer; gravel- walks rolled; beds neatly raked; spring flowers shown to the best advantage ; not the ghost of a dead leaf remaining; prunings and trimmings swept away, to be burnt; edgings trimmed and mended; summer-houses and garden-seats painted, repaired, and cleansed from cobwebs; tumble-down rockwork dovetailed together again, and the wounds healed with houseleek, lovechain, or saxifrage; unsafe bridges rendered passable; leaning Pisa-tower-like posts and palings restored to their proud perpendicular. " April showers bring May flowersbut if you don't sow and plant the flowers, they carCt; like- wise if you let them be scratched up by hens and pecked to morsels by sparrows. Therefore, any forgetfulness now, and previously, will rebuke you with its woful blank face staring at you by-and-by. Better provide yourself with too much than too little ; cuttings (with a little bit of root to them) of cupheas, verbenas, heliotropes, petunias, anagallises, fuschias, pansies, and many more, can always be exchanged, or given away. Tie the full- bloomed stems of hyacinths to sticks as you want them. Sow Phlox Drummondii in a little heat: it makes an exquisite bed. Make as sure as you can that wireworms do not attack your Carnations and Picotees; for this, the compost must have been looked over by handfuls. It may seem a long and expensive task to do so; but it is true economy, if you grow high-priced varieties. If your garden is decorated with vases, see that they are filled with proper soil, and that you have wherewithal to plant in them. A mixture of plants with a long succession of bloom—some of pendent and trailing growth, others stiff and sub-shrubby like geraniums—produce the most artistic effect. Let your gardener look at a flower-piece painted by one of the first-rate masters, and he will catch the idea, if he is not a blockhead. He will see it well worked out at Kew. "Water transplanted trees and ihrubs, if drought threatens. Plant out wallflowers, THE CALENDAE. 1C9 double rockets, and the perennial larkspurs, of which Delphinium Hendersoni is one of the finest. Do your best to obviate north-east winds and spring frosts. Attend to your dahlias, and to everything else that is now in the course of propagation. Sow successions of annuals j weed, rake, hoe, and trim. MAY. Don't cut off the long shabby leaves of crocuses and other early bulbs. If you wish for flowers next spring, you must leave them to wither on the plants. Eemove gradually their great-coats of straw, leaves, or fern, from fuschias, tea-roses, &c. &c., which have been kept snug during the winter. Towards the end of the month you will be thinking about venturing out your bedding-plants ; in fixing upon the exact time, the signs of the weather and your situation must guide you. It is better to be a week too late than a day too early. If you are near the coast, learn whether the warm water from the Gulf- stream has yet reached the shores of Britain; if it has (and the owners of bathing-machines will be able to tell you), you may plant in safety, without nightmare dreams of nipping frosts. Sow anemone-beds, as directed in the body of the book. Eemove the awning from beds of hyacinths and tulips that have bloomed; the ranunculuses will want it soon. Transplant half-hardy annuals to the open ground, and whelm a flower-pot over them at night as a protection from frost, drought, and slugs, till they have taken hold of the ground and have made their start in life. Look over the patches of " hardies" sown last month, and repair any failures by sowing afresh. Plant out dahlias, if all is safe, on very rich and well-prepared soil. Preshen up your gravel-walks in dry weather, by chopping out with a hoe all weeds or grass that have intruded themselves; rake the surface well for several successive days, and then lay on a thin coat of new gravel, which must be made to combine with the old by assiduous rolling. Save anemone-seed 170 the flower gardes'. as it ripens ; if you don't, it will all blow away. Stick pinks, carnations, picotees, and plants in general whose flower-stems are rising; it is folly to take infinite pains to raise and cultivate a plant, and then to leave its bloom to draggle in the dirt. Weed right and left; break up with the rake and hoe the surface of any bed that has got hard and caked. Watering is often more requisite now than at any other time of the year; very, very weak, clear manure-water will sometimes be a great help ; but it must not be indiscriminately administered j for instance, to rhododendrons and azaleas. JUNE. This is the time for the main planting-out of dahlias, heliotropes, and other tender South Americans. Look carefully over your roses; their enemies are legion,—of insect vermin the host is fearful; proper pruning is some preventive. The maggots, and worms, and caterpillars, and grubs, which attack the buds, must be picked out patiently with finger and thumb. Other remedies are best described by the syllables uttered by the domestic duck. Aphides are comparatively harmless, though un- sightly; a thunderstorm proves an excellent cure for them. For want of a tempest, take the tip of each twig in one hand, and with a painter's brush in the other, brush off the clustering parasites. They can't stand a repetition of this regimen. An amateur has invented a double aphis-brush, closing with a spring-handle, which, says the advertisement, in a very simple and easy manner, instantly cleanses the rose from that destructive insect the green-fly, without causing the slightest injury to the bud or the foliage. Finally, encourage lady-birds and the sightless grubs of lace-wing flies, which eat or rather suck the aphides. Some of your earliest spring bulbs will soon be fit to be taken up. Save seed from Auriculas and Polyanthuses. You must work hard now to keep things in order; grass has to be mowed, disbudding or summer pruning done by finger and thumb, and the the calendae. 171 whole contents of the garden watched, because nearly the whole contents are advancing at once. Water still, if no summer showers have fallen. Thin out annuals where they come up too thick. Attend daily to your plants in vases ; neglect now is almost irremediable. Hope to live to see next winter and spring, and provide for them by striking cuttings of roses, wallflowers, choice stocks, and whatever else is likely to be useful. The very trimmings and prunings may be economized in this way. Yfatch your beds of seedling anemones. Lose no time in strik- ing chrysanthemums for this autumn's, bloom. Cuttings of the young shoots of pansies, rooted under a hand- glass, will make nice little plants by the autumn. Sow Brompton Stocks, Sweet Williams, Foxgloves, Canter- bury Bells, and other biennials which do not blow their first season. Peg down verbenas as they grow and spread. Lay bean-stalk traps for earwigs. Decide what seeds you will save, marking the stems of the flowers approved by tying a bit of coloured worsted round them. JULY. Take up hyacinths and other spring-flowering bulbs and tubers whose leaves are completely withered. After a soaking shower, bud roses; perform the operation as lightly and as quickly as you can. If you could blow the bud in—presto!—like a conjurer, you would succeed in nine hundred and ninety-nine cases out of a thousand. You may shade the bud afterwards by a laurel-leaf, if the sun comes out scorching. Save all sorts of seeds ; raise all sorts of cuttings : with many of them, it is " now or never." Still carefully tend your seedling anemones. You may take up old-established roots, as directed, if the leaves are quite withered, to be planted again as soon as you can. Tie the rising dahlias to their stakes; leave only a single stem, if they send up more than one; and cut out the bottom laterals and irregular shoots. The first two or three flowers are seldom good for anything; it is as well to cut them out while still in the bud, that 172 the flower garden. their successors may have the benefit of the sap. ^ It will improve the summer roses, if, when they have quite done blooming, all the flower-shoots are cut back to the branch from which they started, unless it be desired to ripen hips, for seed. Train and tie in your vigorous creepers, weekly if possible. Mow grass-plots continually. Sup- port your hollyhocks, and see that the stakes are firmly fixed in the gx-ound ; otherwise they will be as likely to pull down the flower-stems in a high gust of wind, as to keep them up. Pipe and layer carnations, pinks, and picotees. Take up tulips and ranunculuses. Help your autumnal roses by frequent doses of not too strong liquid manure. The garden is now in great beauty; let it not be disfigured by slovenliness. Eemove faded flowers, withered stems, and over-luxuriant weedy growths: their absence will make way for the many lovely blossoms that are yet to come. Attend to your pinks and carnations from which you intend saving seed. Pot off your struck chrysanthemums. Take care that bedding-plants of trailing habit do not encroach too far, overlapping and smothering box edgings, and inflicting on your parterre a wound which is not easy to heal. Tou will now begin to appre- ciate the value of Bourbon, Noisette, and Perpetual Eoses: treat them according to their deserts. Do not let a weed show a leaf, much less let it ripen seed. AUGUST. Hyacinths and other Dutch bulbs will be beginning to arrive at the nurserymen's. Eemember, first come, first served. Try for the chance of selecting the finest roots. See that your dahlias and hollyhocks are not snapped by the wind for want of tying up as they advance. Shift chrysanthemums in pots to one size larger; keep them frequently and freely watered. Tie those in the open ground to stakes. Save seeds, plant cuttings, and con- tinue to bud roses on favourable occasions. Now is the time to take up and divide the clusters of bulbs and off- Bets of Spanish Irises, Crowns Imperial, Pritillaries, and THE CALENDAR. 173 others, which are none the better for being kept long out of the ground. We are beginning to turn a sort of gar- dening corner ; we may look two ways, behind and before us; but we have not yet time to pause and rest, for a grammatical lesson has to be learned by conjugating the verbs mow, rake, sweep, water, dig, roll, clean, and gather. Sow the seeds of choice primulas, polyanthuses, and auri- culas. Plant out rooted cuttings of pansies in a shady situation. Sow stocks for spring flowering. Visit the nurseries now, and select (before they have lost their foliage; and mark, or number, so that you have not to scramble for them by-and-by, or be obliged to take just what others choose to leave you) ornamental shrubs for planting in November, to try the effect of a spring- flowering bed. Many valuable plants have been intro- duced, which were unknown to our fathers in their youth. Forsgthia viridissima, from China, forms a thick bush, with deep-green leaves which are odoriferous when rubbed, and produces an abundance of brilliant-yellow bell-shaped flowers. Herberts Farivinii has shining ever- green leaves, and drooping spikes of golden florets. The Siberian [Rhododendron (li. Hauricum atrovirens) dis- plays its cheerful violet-pink blossoms hi March. Hhodo- dendron ciliatum is a dwarf Himalayan species, with comparatively large and conspicuous white blossoms. Bhodora Canadensis (in heath-mould and shade) will put forth, before its leaves, a profusion of rose-scented, pinky-lilac blooms, which are exceedingly pretty, though not large in size. [Remember, too, Dwarf Almonds and double-blossomed Peaches, and what has been already written respecting Feutzia gracilis and scabra, and Jasminum nudiflorum. If we never regretted any monej worse than what we spend on flowering shrubs! the plower gardeit. SEPTEMBER. Plant imported bulbs of Van Thol and Parrot tulips, hyacinths, narciss-uses, crocuses, snowdrops, and other hardy early-flowering genera, as soon as you can possibly get them home from the seedsman's shop. Roses may still be budded with success; sometimes the latest budded do the best. Sow annuals to stand the winter. Make the most of your bedding-plants and half-hardy showy rambling things; they may be in their glory, but their sun is fast preparing to set. Take every care of your dahlias and hollyhocks ; at the same time look for- ward to the Chrysanthemums. Remember still that seeds will be wanted next spring. Pot off the first-struck cutting3 of the season. G-ather half- opened annual Ever- lastings, for winter bouquets. Take cuttings and make layers of such things as strike in winter. Admire the lovely objects with which you are now surrounded ; but bear in mind that a single night may deprive you of them, and that their beauty is but of a day. Be not selfish in your garden pleasures; show, explain, and communicate freely; and manifest by your manner, as well as by your money, your appreciation of those who prepare for you a pleasure-ground. INDEX. A. Acojjite, winter, culture of the, 51, Aconitum, a tuberous flower, 63. Adam's needle, its culture, 158. Agapanthus umbellatus, a bulbous flower, 22. Agrostemma coronaria, 76. Ailanthus glandulosus, its culture, 14 ; well adapted for towns, 15. Alder, culture of the, 13. Alstroemeria, varieties and culture of the, 73. Althaea frutex, its culture, and different species, 107, 108. Althma rosea (hollyhock), its culture, 88, 89. Amaryllis, a bulbous flower, 23. American allspice, description of, and culture, 108, 109. Anagallis, varieties and culture of the, 99. Anemone, does not blow well in town gardens, 12; its culture, 52; differ- ent species of, 54, 55. .Anemone-flowered roses, white Chinese, 150. Anemone hepatica, culture of the, 88. Annuals, that flourish in town gardens, 10 ; in villa gardens, 18 ; alphabetical list of, 158 ; their names to be ob- tained from the nurseryman's cata- logue, 159. Antirrhinum majus, culture of the, 74. Apples, culture of, 15. April, floricultural operations during the month of, 168. Aquilegia vulgaris, culture of the,' 74. Aristolochia (birthwort), different species, and their culture, 110. Armeria vulgaris (thrift), its culture, 104. Arum, varieties and culture of the, 55. Asclepias, varieties and culture of, 75. Ash, weeping, 13. Aster Alpinus (Michaelmas daisy), culture of the, 96. August, floricultural operations during | the month of, 172. 1 Auricula, culture of the, 75. Austrian rose, 137. Autumnal roses, and their varieties, 151. Ayrshire roses, and their varieties, 146. Azalea, its culture, 9,109 ; the Chinese variety, ib. B. Banksia roses, 137; their varieties, 147. Bath white moss rosea, 134, 135. Bell-flower, the, 76. Bellis perennis, 81. Berberry, its garden uses, 110. Bignonia, its culture, 110. Birthwort, different species, and culture, 110. Bladder senna, its culture, 110. Blush roses, and their varieties, 152, 153. Bourbon roses, and their varieties, 152. Bramble, its varieties and culture, 111. Briar, Austrian, its culture and varie- ties, 138. Broom, varieties of, 111. Brugmansia, varieties and culture of, ill. Buddlea globosa, its culture, 113. Bulbous Floweks, 9 ; their proper- ties and culture, 21 et seq. ; the different kinds and varieties of, 22—50 ; the agapanthus umbellatus, 22; the amaryllis, 23; the colchi- cum autumnale, ib.; the crocus, 24; the crown imperial, 25 ; the daffo- dil, and dogs-tooth violet, 26; the fritillary, garlic, and gladiolus, 27 ; the Guernsey lily, 28 ; the hya- cinth, 28—35; the Iris, 35 ; the izia, 36; the jonquil and lily, 38 ; the narcissus, 40 ; the snowdrop, 42; the snowflake, and squill, 43; the Star ot Bethlehem, 44 ; the tiger- flower and tuberose, 45; the tulip, | 46 ; and the zephvranthes Candida, 50. 176 INDEX. C. Cabbage roses, 134, 137. Calceolaria, its varieties and culture, 76- Calendar of monthly operations in flori- culture, 160. Calicanthus floridus (allspice), descrip- tion and culture of, 108, 109. Caltha palustris (marsh marigold), culture of the, 95. Camellia Japonica, description of, and culture, 113, 114. Campanula, its varieties and culture, 76. ^ Campion rose, 76. Carnation, culture of the, 77. Cheiranthus, and its varieties, 153. Chiraonanthus fragrans, 158. Chinese style of gardening, 7. Christmas rose, culture of the, 55. Christ's Thorn, description and garden uses of, 114. Chrysanthemum, varieties and culture of the, 79. Cineraria, culture of the, 80. Cistus, different species, and culture, 114. Citrus, its culture, 123. Clematis, 115; its varieties, 158. Clianthus puniceus, its culture, 115. Climbing roses, and their varieties, 146. Coboea scandens, its culture, 80. Colchicum autumnale, a bulbous flower, 23. Coltsfoot, sweet-scented, 80. Columbine, the, 80. Colutea arborescens, its culture, 110. Commelina tuberosa, 81. Convallaria maialis (lily of the valley), culture of the, 92. Copper beech. 13. Corn-flag, culture of the, 27. Coronilla glauca, description and gar- den uses of the, 115. Corydalis, the different species of, 83. Country gardens, management of, 20 et aeq. Cowslip, American, culture of, and varieties, 73, 74. Cranesbill, its culture, 81. Creepers, perennial, that flourish in town gardens, 10. Crocus, culture of the, 9, 24, 25 ; varie- ties of the, 24. Crowfoot, the, 81. Crown imperial, a bulbous flower, 25. Cyclamen, varieties and culture of the, 56. Cydonia, the genus, 127. Cy^ripedium, a tuberous flower, 6l. Cytisus albus, 111, Cytisus Laburnum, description of the, and its different species, 115. D. Daffodil, culture of the, 26. Dahlia, its origin, 57; varieties and culture of the, 58, 59 ; its horticul- tural uses, 60. Daisy, double, does not bloom well in town gardens, 12; its varieties and culture, 81. Damask roses, and their varieties, 141. Day lily, a tuberous flower, 6(1. December, floricultural operations during the month of, 162, Delphinium (larkspur), different spe- cies, and culture of the, u,xrssia. ' ILLUSTRATED C \TALOGUES GRATIS AND POST-FREE. ' \