of acer Gh hat a tak ee 5 Gand ee Ee oo He Otay Baie Ha eer ates Aa fy fea ie 8 ei Gn Ps OuCooriat Ger HORE SRC RR ars aa or lity Paiva ies UTE Sa hee tN a 5 rE let red ane A a aoa Wehbe tern bn ieke tl mee oe Srna areca Ven tA BO AE Oe uae wa ee CAL OP Rew Om Ene Te Ct CPO Se uv oe ienurr PSTD Shae Sew ea ee SSC a iat SN aden iN CRD TR carats Diane A Pe oe ca neers fe acer ees sate Ata an Cp itn ile etoeh alent) apc Scrat Shee eect Siebtneee hit tosses Vi | CORN EE [IUD eles V7 IETBIRG AO Rays WILLARD FISKE ENDOWMENT Digitized by Microsoft® GAYLORD PRINTEDINU.S.A. wii 479 480 Digitized by Microsoft® This book was digitized by Microsoft Corporation in cooperation with Cornell University Libraries, 2007. You may use and print this copy in limited quantity for your personal purposes, but may not distribute or provide access fo it (or modified or partial versions of if) for revenue-generating or other commercial purposes. Digitized by Microsoft® Digitized by Microsoft® Digitized by Microsoft® Digitized by Microsoft® PLTOATEMAS PREC “Eg gl uUcpuoy ‘ssoysyqny'euoog my L "E§NVISI WAIWNUK LO STHAILYN B NVUVINVLVS d by Microsoft® ize ti igit NARRATIVE OF THE VOYAGE OF H.M.S. RATTLESNAKE, COMMANDED BY THE LATE CAPTAIN OWEN STANLEY, R.N., F.RB.S. &e. DURING THE YEARS 1846-1850. INCLUDING DISCOVERIES AND SURVEYS IN NEW GUINEA, THE LOUISIADE ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. TO WHICH IS ADDED THE ACCOUNT OF MR. E. B. KENNEDY’S EXPEDITION FOR THE EXPLORATION OF THE CAPE YORK PENINSULA. BY JOHN MACGILLIVRAY, F.R.G.S. NATURALIST TO THE EXPEDITION. PUBLISHED UNDER THE Sanction of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON: T, & W. BOONE, 29, NEW BOND STREET. 1852. Digitized by Microsoft® DU Ql 1 age vel ABBE 1 Fiske. 222 uflF Digitized by Microsoft® TO MRS. STANLEY, This Work is Dedicated AS A TRIBUTE OF RESPECT TO THE MEMORY OF HER SON, UNDER WHOSE DIRECTION THE PRINCIPAL OBJECTS OF THE VOYAGE OF THE RATTLESNAKE WERE SUCCESSFULLY ACCOMPLISHED. Digitized by Microsoft® Digitized by Microsoft® PREFACE. Iv was originally intended that an account of the Surveying Voyage of H.M.S. Rattlesnake should have been undertaken conjointly by the late Captain Owen Stanley and myself, in which case the narrative would have been constructed from the materials afforded by the journals of both, and the necessary remarks upon hydrographical subjects would have been furnished by that officer, whose lamented death in March, 1850, prevented this arrangement from being carried out. Not having had access to Captain Stanley’s private journals, I considered myself fortunate, when the Lords Com- missioners of the Admiralty—in addition to sanc- tioning the publication of my account of the Voyage in question—directed that every facility should be afforded me in consulting the manuscript charts and other hydrographical results at their disposal, and to Rear-Admiral Sir I’. Beaufort, C.B., Commander Digitized by Microsoft® yi PREFACE. C. B. Yule, R.N., and Lieut. J. Dayman, R.N., I beg to express my thanks for the liberal manner in which they carried out their Lordships’ intentions. To the other gentlemen who have contributed Appendices to this work—George Busk, Esq. F.R.5., Dr. R. G. Latham, Prof. Edward Forbes, F.R.5., and Adam White, Esq., F.L.S.—I have also to offer my best thanks. It also affords me great pleasure to record my obligations to T. Huxley, Esq. R.N., F.R.S., late Assistant-Surgeon of the Rattlesnake, for the handsome manner in which he allowed me to select from his collection of drawings those which now appear as illustrations; and I may express the hope, which in common with many others I entertain, that the whole of his researches in marine zoology may speedily be laid before the scientific world. My own collections in Natural History have been submitted to the examination of various eminent naturalists. Many of the novelties have already been described, and the remainder will appear from time to time. Digitized by Microsoft® CONTENTS OF VOL. I. CHAPTER I. PAGE. Ossects of the Voyage—Admiralty Instructions—Hydrographer’s In- structions— Sail from Plymouth—Arrive at Madeira—Funchal—Visit to Curral—Try for Deep Sea Soundings—Crossing the Line —Arrive at Rio Janeiro—City of Rio and Neighbourhood—Dredging in Botafogo Bay—Slavery—Religious Processions — Brazilian Character —Cross the South Atlantic—Temperature of the Sea—Oceanic Birds —Pelagic Animals—Arrive at Simon Bay—Survey the Bay —Caffre War—Observations on Waves—Arrive at Mauritius—Port Louis— Visit to Pamplemousses—La Pouce Mountain—Try for Deep Sea Soundings —Arrive at Hobart Town CHAPTER II. Arrive at Sydney — Bramble is attached to the Expedition—Survey Entrance of Port Jackson and Twofold Bay—Sail upon our First Northern Cruize—Arrive at Moreton Bay— Proceedings there—Natives at Moreton Island—Arrive at Port Curtis—Settlement of North Australia—Excursions made in Neighbourhood—Natural Productions —Call at the Percy Isles—Port Molle and Cape Upstart—Unable to find Fresh Water—Return to Sydney—Recent Occurrences there— Sail for Bass’s Strait—Visit Port Phillip and Port Cerone the Lighthouses of the Strait CHAPTER III. Sail on our Second Northern Cruize—Entrance to the Inner Passage —Arrive at Rockingham Bay—Land Mr. Kennedy’s Expedition— Commence the Survey at Dunk Island—Communication with Natives —Barnard Isles —Botanical Sketch—Examine a New River—Frank- land Isles—Find the Cocoa-nut Palm—Fitzroy Island—The Will-o’ the Wisp and her Stury—Trinity Bay—Animals of a Coral Reef— Stay at Lizard Island—Howick, Pelican, and Claremont Isles—Bird Isles—Meet party of Natives in Distress—Cairncross Island—Arrive at Cape York ; : 3 ‘ Digitized by Microsoft® 42 76 vil CONTENTS. CHAPTER IV. PAGE: Water the Ship—Vessel with Supplies arrives—Natives at Cape York —Description of the Country and its Productions—Port Albany considered as a Depot for Steamers—Sail from Cape York and arrive at Port Essington—Condition of the Place—History of the Settlement —Would be useless as a Colony—Aborigines—Leave Port Essington— Arrive at Sydney : ; . » 121 CHAPTER V. Fate of Kennedy’s Expedition—Sail on our Third Northern Cruise— Excursion on Moreton Island—History of Discoveries on the South- East Coast of New Guinea and the Louisiade Archipelago, from 1606 to 1846—Find the Shores of the Louisiade protected by a Barrier Reef—Beautiful appearances of Rossel Island—Pass through an opening in the Reef, and enter Coral Haven—Interview with Natives on Pig Island—Find them treacherously disposed —Their mode of Fishing on the Reefs—Establish a system of Barter alongside the Ship —Description of the Louisiade Canoes, and mode of management— Find a Watering Place on South-East Island—Its Scenery and Pro- ductions—Suspicious conduct of the Natives—Their Ornaments, &c. described & a : S : . 162 CHAPTER VI. Leave Coral Haven—Brierly Island—Communication with the Natives —Description of their Huts—Bartering for Yams and Cocoa-nuts— Suspicious conduct of the Natives—They attack the Surveying Boats —Calvados Group—Further communication with the Inhabitants— Stay at Duchateau Islands—Their Productions—Proceedings there— Duperré Islands—Unable to find Anchorage—Pass out to Sea, and proceed to the Westward—Western termination of the Louisiade Archipelago—Reach the Coast of New Guinea . 218 CHAPTER VII. Brumer Islands—Catamarans and Canoes — Friendly relations with the Natives of New Guinea—Are well received at their Village— Tatooing and Dress of the Women—The Huts described—Large Canoe from the Mainland — Tassai ladies return our visit—The Natives described—Their Weapons, Ornaments, Food, &c.—Cul de Sac de l’Orangerie, and Communication with the Natives—Redscar Bay and its Inhabitants—Leave the Coast of New Guinea—Arrive at Cape York ‘ . 5 . 253 Digitized by Microsoft® CONTENTS. 1X CHAPTER VIII. PaGt. Rescue a white Woman from Captivity among the Natives—Her History —Bramble and boats complete the Survey of Torres Strait—Wini and the Mulgrave Islanders—Intercourse with the Cape York Natives —Nearly quarrel with them at a night dance—Witness a Native fight—Discover some fine country — Incidents of our stay—Many new Birds found—Remarks on the Climate, &c. of Cape York . 301 APPENDIX. OBsERVATIONS on the Temperature of the Sea, made during the Voyage of H.M.S. Rattlesnake, Dec. 1846—July, 1847, by Lieut. J. Day- MAN, R.N. é ‘ $ - 329 Axnsrracts of Meridian Distances measured during the Voyage of H.M.S. Rattlesnake, 1847-50, by Capt. Owen Sranuey, R.N., F.R.S., and Lieut. C. B. Yute, R.N. ‘ 4 a oe] Osservations of the Mean Magnetic Inclination, made on shore in the Voyage of H.M.S. Rattlesnake, by Lieut. J. DayMan, R.N. . 337 Account of the Polyzoa and Sertularian Zoophytes, collected in the Voyage of H.M.S. Rattlesnake, by Grorce Busk, Esa. F.R.S. 343, Digitized by Microsoft® p. line. 13 34 35 39 58 92 102 103 104 233 20 12 28 28 16 31 18 29 23 ERRATA.—VOL. I. for los read dos. breach read breech. pantherina read mauritiana. astree vead astr@@. Louis read Curtis. second read first. occulata read oculata. meandrina read meandrina. sordidus read sordida. Pritchard read Prichard. Digitized by Microsoft® Pp 356 357 3538 line. 22 10 ” ” ” ” ” ” cube read eup. oval read oval, also p. 870,1.7; p. 372, 1. 20; p. 380, I. 9. Jine read five. dichotoma read furcata. muarginata read Torresiana. Slexilis,n.sp.read Johnstonia. Janicro read Janeiro. fluxure read flexure. LIsT OF PLATES, VOL. I. Canoe and Natives of New Guinea Cutting through the “‘ Scrub” at Rockingham Bay Lime Calabash and Spatula Interview with Natives of the Louisiade Aveuigalagp Stone-headed Axe and Fishhook Plan of Piron Island Canoe Large Canoe of the Louisiade ‘ View in Watering Creek, South-East Island Bracelet made of a Human Jaw Hut on Brierly Island End view of do. Interior of do. s ‘ Catamaran and Natives of Brumer aaa Drum, Bailer, and Cooking Pot Village of Tassai, New Guinea Shield, Spears, Basket, and Comb Pandean Pipes Wooden Pillow New Guinea Canoe in a Squall Natives of Redscar Bay ‘ Playhouse of Bower Bird of Cape York F New Zoophytes Digitized by Microsoft® Frontispiece to face p. 83 to uses 190 193 - 198 - 205 . 206 to face to face 208 - 216 223 224 « 225 . 256 - . 261 ° to face 264 279 = abe . 286 « 294 to face 298 323 4 343 Digitized by Microsoft® Digitized by Microsoft® Digitized by Microsoft® ; 142° | 143° 144° 145° 146° | 147° 148° | GE = : | ae Presh- we ‘e | pat 9” “WS fea Co oN | | us ae NY Ney jernte Qn a ww ig IOs a ig bet “ee | ee & JIB ain) God Ri ~) peception AS et a | ‘ 3 ~ 0 \ 8°! £ A fF al as [ee eeBiindagd. || slang ay = a ‘ % Daclatchie PE eran Ry | Ry as ee ) Se ° AP, Freshwater BS“ | niche L a oo | he oy of a — |

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Mac Gillivray. oo peg eee f 10° a Yy WWys220 : 2 Vesti Ne oo TINS Siu e} Zugt ; Biggneerl gg Sead! N. -Gate Bay : Sa glen, ier : Bonvouloir Is & o Amazon Is* we 2 4 5 Sean, & ane Toulon I! 4 Len, po ae x Dufaure Ee 7 ee | Cone Pe sions fi “Z eee pte | Te oath Be 5, Bla x an $.E. Cape of New Guinea A eo oitlon | £ es *Léocadiel¥ i Deboyne 155, atignanl) (Hemy $ ee 2 Bruner IE ‘Castori I. | > é | & Is Lebrun If g tee L ov I S$ IT. & D &£ Auvoye gs 8 > it 3 Teste if Jinbert I. Si pra IS pe see! aoe pg et n° : cf W. Borrier Reef » ayy, Sauers I? pee . Sreeter Lap "3 + ee x a : ae Ba = Diperne Edaystone, » ¥* 4 i i 24g Ushantl, 29 PP EEL: stone x cate G i "% wees Saati sR, RuggAd” “Read. Startins so Of ol ° i ! andy 897s “Sua " 2 : a 55 A 5 is . Pu e pedo ef ports aad ens™ Peraany EYE so Rt RUG ee ayes Rl VELE A C oO r Ll S ee | ee ase ‘Be Duchateaw Is Rov ao S Coral é Heise Ri “ = . an | son et rag bon ie Tee = Rosset Sa ‘ Ss is hg Leth ih z Ped & ae a — Tee Engh ae na ~~ SE PEland ~~. gy, elite, | ae IE. Rattlesnake ita Ge, "Bn, c.powst 2689 #. “lh ectnit Conde Y Peninsita acer ¢ of so" ro gr wae Jorn? a 99 148° | 149° 150° PIQGHIZRU DY WICTOSOTINS 459° 153° 154° 155° —— 3 Engraved by John. Dower, London. US VOYAGE OF H.M.S. RATTLESNAKE. CHAPTER f. OBJECTS OF THE VOYAGE—ADMIRALTY INSTRUCTIONS—-HYDRO- GRAPHER’S INSTRUCTIONS—SAIL FROM PLYMOUTH—ARRIVE AT MADEIRA—FUNCHAL—VISIT TO CURRAL—TRY FOR DEEP SEA SOUNDINGS—CROSSING THE LINE—ARRIVE AT RIO DE JANEIRO—CITY OF RIO AND NEIGHBOURHOOD—DREDGING IN BOTAFOGO BAY—SLAVERY—RELIGIOUS PROCESSIONS—BRAZI- LIAN CHARACTER—CROSS THE SOUTH ATLANTIC—TEMPERA- TURE OF THE SEA—OCEANIC BIRDS—PELAGIC ANIMALS— ARRIVE AT SIMON’S BAY—SURVEY THE BAY—CAFFRE WAR — OBSERVATIONS ON THE WAVES—ARRIVE AT MAURITIUS— PORT LOUIS—-VISIT TO PAMPLEMOUSSES—-LA POUCE MOUN- TAIN—TRY FOR DEEP SEA SOUNDINGS—-ARRIVE AT HOBART TOWN. H.M.S. RatrLesnakeE, one of the old class of 28-oun ships, was commissioned at Portsmouth on September 24th, 1846, by the late Captain Owen Stanley, with a complement of 180 officers and men. The nature and objects of the intended voyage will best be conveyed to the reader through the medium of the following instructions from the Admiralty, for the use of which I am indebted to Lieut. C. B. Yule, VOL. I. B Digitized by Microsoft® 2 ADMIRALTY INSTRUCTIONS. who succeeded to the command of the Rattlesnake, upon the death of our late lamented Captain, at Sydney, in March 1850, after the successful accom- plishment of the principal objects of the expedition. “ By rue CoMMISSIONERS FOR EXECUTING THE OFFICE OF Lorp Hien ApmiraAL or THE Unitep KinepomM oF Great Britain anp IRELAND, &c. « Whereas, it being the usual practice of vessels return- ing from the Australian Colonies, or from the South Sea, to proceed to India through Torres Strait; and most of those vessels preferring the chance of finding a convenient opening in the Barrier Reefs to the labour of frequent anchorage in the In-shore Passage, it was thought fit to send out an expedition under Captain Francis Blackwood, to determine which was the best opening that those reefs would afford, and to make such a survey thereof as would ensure the safety of all vessels which should continue to adopt that mode of reaching the Strait : « And whereas, although that specific object was suc- cessfully achieved by the survey of Raine Island Passage, and by the erection of a durable beacon there to render it the more accessible, yet it appears that much is still to be done in those seas in order to make the approach to the Strait more secure and certain, as well as to afford the choice of another entrance farther to the northward in case of vessels overshooting the latitude of Raine Island by stress of wind, or current : “We have, therefore, thought proper to appoint you to the command of the Rattlesnake, for the purpose of carry- ing out these objects; and you are hereby required and directed, when that ship is in every respect ready for sea, to proceed in her to Madeira for the verification of your Digitized by Microsoft® ADMIRALTY INSTRUCTIONS. 3 chronometers—from thence to Simon’s Bay at the Cape of Good Hope, for a supply of water, and to land the £50,000 you have been ordered to convey to that colony; then to make the best of your way to the Mauritius, to land the treasure (£15,000) entrusted to your charge for that island; and having so done, to proceed to King George’s Sound for the purpose of carrying its exact meridian dis- tance to Sydney, where you will lose no time in preparing for the execution of the important service entrusted to you. “The several objects of that service have been drawn up under our direction by our Hydrographer; but notwith- standing the order in which they are placed, we leave to your own discretion the several periods of their perform- ance, and likewise the times of your return to Sydney to re-victual and refit—being satisfied that your zeal in pushing forward the survey will never outstrip your atten- tion to the health and comfort of your crew. “ You will take the Bramble and her tender, the Castle- reagh, under your orders, and employ them in those places which require vessels of a lighter draft of water than the Rattlesnake. They are to be attached as tenders to the Rattlesnake, and to be manned from that ship; and such of the present crew of the Bramble as may have served five years continuously, and volunteer to remain on the survey- ing service in Australia, are to be entered in the Rattle- snake under the provisions of the Act of Parliament. The books of the Bramble are to be closed, and she is to be considered as no longer in commission ; and you are hereby authorized, after being joined by her and by the Castle- reagh, to enter ten supernumerary seamen for wages and victuals in the Rattlesnake, (making her total complement 190,) to enable you effectively to man the said two tenders. “In stretching off from the Barrier Recfs to the east- ward, in order to explore the safety of the sea intervening B 2 Digitized by Microsoft® 4 ADMIRALTY INSTRUCTIONS. between them and Louisiade and New Guinea, you will have occasion to approach those shores, in which case you must be constantly on your guard against the treacherous disposition of their inhabitants; all barter for refreshments should be conducted under the eye of an officer, and every pains be taken to avoid giving any just cause of offence to their prejudices, especially with respect to their women. “A naturalist having been permitted to accompany you, every reasonable facility is to be given him in making and preserving his collections. “Tn the event of this country being involved in hostili- ties during your absence, you will take care never to be surprised ; but you are to refrain from any act of aggres- sion towards the vessels or settlements of any nation with which we may be at war, as expeditions employed in behalf of discovery and science have always been considered by all civilized communities as acting under a general safe- guard. “You will consider yourself under the command of Rear-Admiral Inglefield, the Commander-in-Chief of Her Majesty’s ships and vessels on the East India station, while you are within the limits of that station; and we have sig- nified to him our desire that he should not divert you from the survey, nor interfere with your proceedings, except under the pressure of strong necessity; and that upon all fit occasions he should order you to be supplied with the stores and provisions of which you may stand in need; and all officers senior to yourself, with whom you may fall in, are hereby directed to give you any assistance which may be requisite. “ Notwithstanding the 16th article of the 4th section of the 6th chapter of the Admiralty Instructions, you are, besides your reports to your Commander-in-Chief, to send brief accounts to our Secretary of your proceedings, state, Digitized by Microsoft® ADMIRALTY INSTRUCTIONS. 5) and condition: and you will make known to him, in due time, the nature and quantity of any supplies of which you may be absolutely in want, and which may have to be forwarded to you from England. “ With our Hydrographer you are by every opportunity in your power to keep up a constant correspondence; you are to report to him in full detail all your proceedings; and you are to transmit to him, whenever possible, tracings of all charts and plans that you may have completed, accom- panied by sailing directions, and with notices of any facts or discoveries which may be of interest to navigation. “ Having completed the service herein set forth, you are to return in the Rattlesnake, along with the Bramble, to Spithead, when you will receive directions for your fur. ther proceedings. If the Bramble should, however, by that time be in an unfit state to undertake the voyage to Europe, it may perhaps be prudent to dispose of her, under the sanction of the Commander-in-chief. “In the event of any unfortunate accident befalling yourself, the officer on whom the command may in conse- quence devolve, is hereby required and directed to carry out, as far as in him lies, the foregoing orders and instruc- tions. “ Given under our hands, this 1st December, 1846. (Signed) “Cas. ADAM. “Jno. D. Dunpas. “To Owen Srantey, Esq., “Captain of Her Majesty’s “Surveying Vessel Rattlesnake, at Plymouth, “By command of their Lordships, (Signed) “H. G. Warp.” In connexion with the preceding general instruc- tions to Capt. Stanley, it will be necessary to give Digitized by Microsoft® 6 HYDROGRAPHER’S INSTRUCTIONS. a portion of those more explicit directions furnished by the Hydrographer, Rear-Admiral Sir Francis Beaufort. Extracts from Hydrographic Instructions for Capt. Stanley. “On your arrival at Sydney you should take the earliest opportunity of communicating with Lieut. Yule, in order to learn how much has been executed, by the Bramble and her tender, of the orders which he received from Capt. Blackwood, and you will no doubt avail yourself of his long experience in those seas in digesting your plan of future operations. “A letter from the Colonial Office having recently apprized their Lordships that it is the intention of her Majesty’s Government to form a new settlement at Harvey Bay, and having requested that it may be duly examined with that view, your first undertaking, after leaving Syd- ney, should be to repair to that place, and to make an efficient survey of the whole bay, extending it down through the channel into Wide Bay, and marking the best anchor- ages, the most convenient landing-places, and the several parts where water may be found. And as it appears that Colonel Barney, R.E. is engaged in the same inquiry, it will be prudent to act in concert with him, and to give him a copy of such parts of it as may suit his purposes. “In your way to this district, and indeed on every part of the shores of Australia, you should lose no fair opportu- nity of verifying the positions—ocf multiplying the sound- ings—and of improving the smaller details of the coast as laid down by Capt. P. P. King in his excellent Survey, but which he had not time or means to effect with the same accuracy that will be in your power. By carrying Digitized by Microsoft® os HYDROGRAPHER’S INSTRUCTIONS. 7 on this system of correction and improvement in our pre- sent charts from Harvey Bay along the narrow navigation which is generally known by the name of the In-shore Passage, between the coast and the Barrier Reefs, a very great benefit will be conferred on those masters of vessels who would be the more readily inclined to adopt that channel, if certain parts of it were so clearly delineated, and the soundings so spread on either side of the tracks, that they could sometimes continue under sail during the night. However necessary it was, and is, to contribute as much as possible to the safety of those vessels who choose the outer voyage by the Barrier Reefs, it is not the less our duty to facilitate the navigation of the In-shore Passage to all vessels who prefer its tranquillity and security to the risk of the former; and your labours for the accomplishment of this object will prove to be of peculiar importance when steam communication between Singa- pore and Sydney shall be established. “In the general and searching examination of those parts of the Coral Sea which are likely to be traversed by ships steering for Torres Strait, you will be obliged to regulate your movements by the periodic changes of the weather and monsoons—probably beginning to windward, and dropping gently to leeward by close and well-arranged traverses, and by spreading out your three vessels to a con- venient distance apart. This great expanse of sea, which may be said to stretch from Lord Howe’s Island to New Caledonia and to the Louisiade, would no doubt require many years work in order to accomplish that object; but, by dividing it into definite zones or squares, and by fully sifting those which you may undertake, a certain quantity of distinct knowledge will be gained. Navigators in cross- ing those zones will then be sure of their safety, and future surveyors will know exactly on what parts to expend their labours. Digitized by Microsoft® 8 HYDROGRAPHER’S INSTRUCTIONS. “Tn carefully exploring the northernmost, and appa- rently the safest entrance from the Pacific, which may be called Bligh’s Channel, you will connect the islands with a survey of the coast of New Guinea, as well as with the edge of the Warrior Reef, and as there are throughout moderate soundings, you will probably be able to draw up such clear directions as will enable the mariner to use it in moderate weather by night, and to beat through it at all times. Characteristic views of the coast and hills of New Guinea, as well as of each island, both from the east- ward and westward, will greatly assist him by the imme- diate certainty of his landfall, and will also materially add to your means of giving proper marks and bearings for avoiding the dangers. “Tn Torres Strait you will find much to do ;—not only has a new rock been discovered in the middle of the Endeavour Channel, but the water in its western opening is only four and a-half fathoms, and there seems no reason for not believing that Prince of Wales Channel is safer, easier, and more direct. But before we can decide upon. that point, an accurate survey must be made of it, through- out its length and breadth, including the adjacent islands, and showing their anchorages and watering-places, as well as the nature of the soil, and the kind of timber they pro- duce, along with a full investigation of the tides. “The connexion of that Strait with Bligh’s Farewell should also be examined, for many circumstances may ren- der it highly necessary that the Admiralty should be made aware of what means there are to pass from one ocean to the other, without being observed from Cape York. “ On this latter Cape Government have for some time contemplated a station, and it will therefore be very desir- able to fix upon a convenient but secure anchorage in its neighbourhood. Our latest surveys do not show much Digitized by Microsoft® HYDROGRAPHER’S INSTRUCTIONS. 9 promise of finding such a port; but, perhaps, inside the reefs beyond Peak Point, or more likely between Albany Island and the main, a snug place may be discovered for that purpose. “Tn tracing out the approach to Bligh’s Farewell, you will be led to examine the southern face of New Guinea as far as Cape Valsche; but after verifying the position of this point, it will be prudent to quit the shores of that island, and not to meddle with any part of it over which the Dutch claim jurisdiction. “When you have arrived at this distant point, the 8.E. monsoon will probably render it necessary to repair to Port Essington for such supplies as may by previous arrangement have been sent there for you from Syduey ; or perhaps unforeseen events might render it more expe- dient to proceed for refreshments to some of the islands in the Arafura Sea, or it is possible to one of the Dutch settlements in Java. And in either of these two latter cases you should make a complete survey of the island to which you have proceeded, or you should select any one of the eastern passages from Bally to Floris most convenient to the object you have in view, and then lay it down with precision. Of the many well-known passages between the innumerable islands of that great Archipelago, there is not one which has ever been charted with plausible accuracy ; and it cannot be too strongly impressed on your mind that hydrography is better served by one accurate chart than by ten approximate sketches. “The several objects of this highly interesting expe- dition having thus been briefly enumerated, I have only to remind you that their Lordships do not prescribe to you the order in which they are to be executed, leaving it to your own prudence, and to your experience in those cli- mates, so to arrange them that each part of your survey Digitized by Microsoft® 10 SAIL FROM PLYMOUTH. shall be complete in itself, and that each step in your progress shall be conducive to its successor. (Signed) «FF, Bravurort, Hydrographer.” The Rattlesnake left Spithead on December 3rd, and on the 11th took her final departure from Plymouth, which place we had called at to complete her fittings, swing the ship a second time to ascer- tain the amount of local attraction, and receive some specie for the Cape of Good Hope and the Mauritius. Being favoured by strong northerly winds, we reached Madeira on December 18th, after a quick, but most uncomfortable passage ; during the greater part of which the main and lower decks were partially flooded, owing to the inefficiency of the scuppers, and the leaky state of nearly every port and scuttle in the ship. Dec. 20th.—The scenery of Madeira has been so often described by voyagers, who, from Cook downwards, have made it the first stage in their circumnavigation of the globe, as to render super- fluous more than a few passing allusions. When near enough to distinguish the minor features of the island, the terraced slopes of the mountain sides- converted into vineyards and gardens studded with the huts of the peasantry, presented a pleasing aspect to visitors, whom a week’s sailing had brought from the snow-clad shores of England. Here and there a white-washed chapel or picturesque villa lent a charm to the scenery by contrasting Digitized by Microsoft® ARRIVE AT MADEIRA.—FUNCHAL. Il strongly with the patches of green upon the slopes, the deep blue of the ocean, and the delicate white of the ever-changing clouds of mist which rolled incessantly along, while the rugged summit of the island, and the deep ravines radiating towards the coast-range of precipitous cliffs, gave an air of wildness to the scene. The town of Funchal, said to contain about 25,000 inhabitants, is situated upon the slope of an amphi- theatre of hills, behind the only anchorage of the island. The finest view is obtained from the baleony of a church dedicated to Nossa Senhora de Monte, situated at a considerable elevation above the town. Here one looks down upon the numerous quintas and cottages of the suburbs embosomed in gardens and vineyards, the orange groves and clumps of chestnut trees, the snow-white houses of Funchal with its churches and public buildings, the citadel frowning over the town, the calm waters of the bay with the vessels at anchor gently heaving to and fro_on the long westerly swell, the [lheo rock and batteries, the bold headlands, and the dim outline of the distant Desertas. Some of the streets are pleasantly shaded by rows of plane trees (Platanus occidentalis). Several deep ravines passing through the town are carefully walled in, to prevent damage being done by the torrents which occasionally sweep down the mountain, carrying everything before them. From the steepness of the narrow roads and streets, wheeled vehicles can scarcely be used, Digitized by Microsoft® 12 VISIT TO CURRAL. and sledges drawn by small bullocks supply their: place, while the wine, the chief article of export, is conveyed into the town in goat-skins carried on the shoulder. Dec.23rd.—Few strangers remain long in Madeira without paying a visit to the Curral, and a large party of us left the ship for that purpose this morning. At first the road led through a series of narrow lanes frequently separated from the fields and vineyards on either side by hedges of roses, honeysuckle, jasmine and fuchsias; now and then passing under successions of trellis work covered by the vines when in full vigour, and then forming long shady vistas. or several miles we wound our way along the hill sides, down deep ravines, and up steep rocky slopes. In spite of the ruggedness of the path, our horses progressed with wonderful alacrity, although occasionally impeded by the additional weight of the attendant burroqueros holding on by the tail, and laughing at our efforts to dislodge them. On reaching the shoulder of one of the hills, we found the ravines and valleys below us filled with dense mist. Here, at an elevation of 2500 feet, a species of spruce-like pine appeared to thrive well. The path, which at times is not more than three feet wide, now winds along the sides of the mountain with many sharp turnings ; heading numerous ravines, the frightful nature of which was partially concealed by the obscurity of the mist. Digitized by Microsoft® VISIT TO CURRAL. 13 We halted at the Pass of the Curral, to which Captain Stanley’s barometrical observations* assign an elevation of 2700 feet above the sea. Shortly afterwards the mist gradually dissolved, unveiling the magnificent scenery below and around. ‘The Curral gives one the idea of a vast craterf of. irregular form, surrounded by a rugged wall (upwards of a thousand feet in height) of grey weather-beaten rock cut down into wild precipices, intersected by ravines and slopes of debris mixed up with masses of crumbling rock, and towering upwards into fantastic peaks. A winding path leads to the bottom—a small fertile valley watered by a streamlet which leaves it by a deep gorge on the left, and forms a picturesque waterfall on its way to the sea. The scattered rustic huts and snow-white chapel of the Curral complete the pic- ture of this peaceful and secluded spot, buried in the very heart of the mountains. * The height of the Pico los Bodes, determined in the usual way by the mountain barometer, was found by Lieut. Dayman to be 3677 feet ; his observations on the magnetic dip and intensity (for which, see the Appendix) are interesting, as shewing a great amount of local attraction at the summit. + There is reason to suppose the Curral to have been the principal, although not the only centre of that submarine volcanic action, during the continuance of which Madeira first emerged from the sea, an event, which the evidence afforded by the limestone fossils of St. Vincente (on the north side of the island) associates with the tertiary epoch. See Paper by Dr. J. Macaulay in Edinb. New Philos. Journ. for October, 1840. Digitized by Microsoft® 14 LEAVE MADEIRA. Although it is now the middle of winter, to-day’s excursion afforded many subjects of interest to a naturalist. Some beautiful ferns, of which even the commonest one (Adiantum Capillus- Veneris ) would have been much prized by an English botanist as a very rare British species, occurred on the dripping rocks by the roadside, and many wild plants were in flower on the lower grounds. Even butterflies of three kinds, two of which (Colas Edusa, and Cynthia Cardui) are also found in Britain, occurred, although in small num- bers, and at the Pass of the Curral coleoptera of the genera Pimelea and Scarites, were met with under stones along with minute landshells, Bulimus lubricus, Clausilia deltostoma, and a Pupa. After a stay of eight days, we left Madeira for Rio de Janeiro, and on January 2nd picked up the S. E. trade wind, and passed through the Cape de Verde Islands to the southward between Mayo and St. Jago. Two days afterwards, in lat. 9° 30’ N., and long. 22° 40' W., a slight momentary shock, supposed to be the effect of an earthquake, was felt throughout the ship. On the 11th an attempt was made to strike deep sea soundings, but failed from the drawing of a splice used to connect two portions of the spun-yarn employed. On the following day the attempt was repeated by Captain Stanley, unsuccessfully, however, no bottom having been obtained at a depth of 2400 fathoms. Still a record of the experiment may Digitized by Microsoft® TRY FOR DEEP SEA SOUNDINGS. 15 be considered interesting. At three P.M., when nearly becalmed in lat. 1° N., and long. 22° 80’ W. (a few hours previous to meeting the S. E. trade), the second cutter was lowered with 2600 fathoms of line (six yarn spun-yarn) in her, coiled in casks, and a weight consisting of twelve 82 1bs. shot,—in all, 384 1bs., secured in a net bag of spun yarn. The jolly-boat was in attendance to tow the cutter as fast to windward as she drifted, so as to keep the line during the time it was running out as nearly up and down as possible. The following table shews when each 100 fathoms passed over the stern, the whole 2400 fathoms of line having taken 88 minutes and 40 seconds to run out :— Fathom Mark. | Time of Passing. ||Fathom Mark.} Time of Passing. Min. Seconds. Min. Seconds. 100 1 0 1300 17 5 200 2 5 1400 19 0 300 2 -30 1500 20 50 400 3 35 1600 22 30 500 5 0 1700 24 25 600 6 15 1800 26 = =330 700 7 35 1900 29 10 800 9 0 2000 31 900 10. 35 2100 382 55 1000 12 40 2200 35 0 1100 13 30 2300 36 655 1200 15 10 2400 38 40 The forenoon of January 18th was employed in Digitized by Microsoft® 16 CROSSING THE LINE. the performance of the usual ceremonies on “ cross- ing the line,” a custom now happily fallmg into desuetude—I allude to it merely for the purpose of mentioning its unfortunate consequences in the pre- sent instance; for, although the whole proceeding was conducted with the greatest good humour, we had soon afterwards to lament the occurrence of a fatal case of pleurisy, besides another scarcely less severe, believed by the medical officers to have been induced by forcible and continued submersion in what is technically called “the pond,” one part of the performance which novices are obliged to sub- mit to during these marine Saturnalia. The most interesting occurrence in natural history during the passage, in addition to the usual accom- paniments of flymg fish, dolphins, physalize and velelle, was our finding, in the neighbourhood of the equator, considerable numbers of a rare British bird, Thalassidroma Leachii, a species of storm- petrel, not before known to extend its range to the tropics; it was distributed between the tropic of Cancer and lat. 5° S. As we approached the South American coast, the rates of several of our seventeen chronometers (fif- teen Government and two private ones) were found to have strangely altered, thus reducing the value of our meridian distance between Madeira and Rio; this effect was ascribed to the firing of shotted guns when exercising at general quarters, a practice which in consequence was not afterwards repeated. Digitized by Microsoft® RIO DE JANEIRO. 17 January 23rd.—I shall not soon forget my first view of the shores of the new world. The morning was beautifully fine, and with a light breeze scarcely sufficient to cause a ripple on the water, we were slipping past the high and remarkable promontory of Cape Frio, which at first appeared like an island. A long beach of glittering sand stretched away to the westward, and was lost in the distance ; behind this a strip of undulating country, clad here and there in the richest green, was backed by a range of distant wooded hills, on which many clumps of palms could be distinguished. Few harbours in the world present a more imposing entrance than that of Rio de Janeiro. Several islands lie off the opening, and on either side the coast range ter- minates in broken hills and ridges of granite, one of which, Pao d’Acucar, the Sugar Loaf of the English, rises at once from near the water’s edge to the height of 900 feet, as an apparently inac- cessible peak, and forms the well known landmark for the entrance. Passing the narrows (where the width is a mile and a quarter), strongly guarded by fortifications, of which Fort Sa. Cruz, an extensive work, with several tiers of guns occupying a rocky point, is the principal, the harbour widens out with beautiful sandy bays on either side, and rocky headlands covered with luxuriant vegetation. Here the view of the city of Rio de Janeiro is magnificent. The glare of the red-tiled buildings, whitewashed or ¥OL. I c Digitized by Microsoft® 18 RIO DE JANEIRO. painted yellow, is relieved by the varied beauty of the suburbs and gardens, and the numerous wooded eminences crowned by churches and other conspi- cuous public edifices. Beyond the city the harbour again widens out to form an immense basin, studded with green islands, extending backwards some seven- teen or eighteen miles further towards the foot of the Organ mountains, remarkable for their pin- nacled summits, the highest of which attains an elevation of 7800 feet above the sea. The harbour presented a busy scene from our anchorage. The water was alive with small craft of every description, from the large felucca-rigged boat down to the fishing canoe simply constructed of a hollowed out log, and steamers crowded with passengers plied between the city and the opposite shore. The sea breeze died away, and was suc- ceeded by a sultry calm; after a short interval, the grateful land wind, laden with sweet odours, ad- vanced as a dark line slowly stealing along the surface of the water, and the deep boom of the evening gun echoing from hill to hill may be said appropriately to have closed the scene. Landing at the Largo do Paco, or palace square, my first favourable impressions of the city of Rio de Janeiro were somewhat lessened by the stench arising from offal on the beach, and the vicinity of the market, under the conjoined influence of a per- fect calm and a temperature of 90° in the shade. The palace, now used by the emperor only on court Digitized by Microsoft® RIO DE JANEIRO. 19 days, has two sides of the large irregular square in which it is situated, occupied by shops and other private buildings. Close by is the market, which the stranger, especially if a naturalist, will do well to visit. The variety of fruits and vegetables is great, that of fish scarcely less so. On the muddy shore in the back ground, the fishing canoes are drawn up on their arrival to discharge their cargoes, chiefly at this time consisting of a kind of sprat and an anchovy with a broad lateral silvery band. Baskets of land crabs covered with black slimy mud, of handsome Lupee, and the large well-flavoured prawns, called Cameroons, are scattered about, and even small sharks (Zygene, &c.) and cuttle-fish are exposed for sale. The streets, which, with few exceptions, are very narrow, are paved with large rough stones,—they have usually a gutter in the centre, and occasionally a narrow pavement on each side. For building purposes, unhewn granite is chiefly used, the walls being afterwards smoothed over with a layer of plaster, whitewashed, and margined with yellow or blue. The two principal streets are the Rua Direita, the widest in the city, and the principal scene of commercial transactions, and the narrow Rua do Ouvidor, filled with shops, many of which equal in the richness and variety of their goods the most splendid establishments of European capitals. Of these the most tempting, and the most dangerous to enter with a well-filled purse, is the famous c 2 Digitized by Microsoft® 20 CITY OF RIO feather-flower manufactory of Mme. Finot, where the gorgeous plumage of humming birds and others of the feathered tribe is fabricated into wreathes and bouquets of all kinds. Although the absence of sewerage is everywhere apparent, the town is well supplied with water from numerous large fountains, filled by pipes from an aqueduct five or six miles in length, communicating with the Corcovado moun- tain. One is struck with the comparative absence of wheeled vehicles in the streets of Rio. Now and then a clumsy caléche is driven past by a negro postillion, in blue livery and jack boots, riding a second horse yoked outside the shafts, and omni- buses drawn by four or six mules, are not unfre- quently met with, and seem to be much patronised. Many of the walks in the neighbourhood of the city are exceedingly beautiful; one of the pleasantest leads along the line of the aqueduct. Here the botanist fresh from Europe, will find subjects of interest at every step, and the entomologist may revel to his heart’s content among gaudily coloured Heliconie, Hesperia, and Erycine, or watch the larger butterflies of the restricted genus Papilio, slowly winging their lazy flight among the trees just beyond the reach of his insect net. A common butterfly here (Peridromia Amphinome) has the singular habit of frequenting the trunks and limbs of the trees where it rests with expanded wings, and generally manages adroitly to shift its position, and escape when swept at with the net. Some Digitized by Microsoft® AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD. Bl large dark Cicad@ are common among the branches, and the air often resounds with their harsh grating cries, especially towards evening. On the trunks of various trees along the path, especially a thorny- stemmed Bombax, the pretty Bulimus papyraceus is common, with an occasional B. Auris-leporis, but I never during my walks was so fortunate as to find any of the more magnificent of the Brazilian landshells,—for example, B. ovalis, a noble species, four or five inches in length, of which I have bought live specimens in the market. Some of the lanes, in which, on one occasion I lost my way, about dusk, would have reminded me of those of the south of England on a fine autumnal eve, were it not for the scattered palms and papaw trees in the hedge-rows, and the hedges themselves occasionally consisting of the coffee plant, conceal- ing’ clumps of banana and sugar-cane. The Cicadee were singing their evening hymn from the branches overhead, and in due time the fire-flies came out in all their glory. I had looked forward with eager anticipation to the result of the first dredging of the Voyage. None of the ship’s boats could be spared, so I hired one pulled by four negro slaves, who, although strong active fellows, had great objections to straining their backs at the oar, when the dredge was down. No sieve having been supplied, we were obliged to sift the contents of the dredge through our hands,—a tedious and superficial mode Digitized by Microsoft® 22 DREDGING IN BOTAFOGO BAY. of examination. Still some fine specimens of a curious flat sea-urchin (Encope marginata) and a few shells, encouraged us to persevere. T'wo days after, Mr. Huxley and myself set to work in Bota- fogo Bay, provided with a wire-gauze meat cover, and a curious machine for cleaning rice; these answered capitally as substitutes for sieves, and enabled’ us by a thorough examination of the con- tents of the dredge, to detect about forty-five species of mollusca and radiata, some of which were new to science. Among these acquisitions I may mention a new species of Amphioxus, a genus of small fishes exhibiting more anomalies than any other known to ichthyologists, and the lowest organ- ization found in the class; it somewhat resembles the sand-eels of Britain in habits, like them moving with extraordinary rapidity through the sand. By dint of bribery and ridicule, we had atlength managed to get our boatmen to work tolerably well; and when we were alike well roasted by the sun and repeatedly drenched, besides being tired out and hungry, they had become quite submissive, and exchanged their grumbling for merriment. A more lovely spot can scarcely be found, than the secluded bay of Botafogo with its pretty village, and the noble Corcovado mountain immediately behind, and we paid it other visits. One of the principal characteristics of Rio is slavery. Slaves here perform the work of beasts of burthen; and in the business parts of the city the Digitized by Microsoft® SLAVERY.— RELIGIOUS PROCESSIONS. 23 attention of a stranger is sure to be arrested by gang's of them heavily laden, proceeding at a jog- trot, timing their steps to a monotonous song and the noise of a tin rattle filled with stones, carried by their leader. What their domestic condition and treatment may be, I know not, but, among the slaves one sees out of doors, the frequency of iron collars round the neck, and even masks of tin, con- cealing the lower part of the face, and secured be- hind with a padlock, would seem to indicate extreme brutality in those capable of resorting to such means of punishment. Yet these, I was told, were rare exceptions, the Brazilians not being worse task- masters than the people of other slave-holding coun- tries,— and such may be the case. Whatever he may think of the true state of reli- gious feeling, it soon becomes obvious to a stranger that great care is taken to celebrate the numerous festivals of the Church with all possible pomp and splendour. One day I happened to encounter a procession in honour of St. Januarius, the patron saint of Rio. The number of ecclesiastics taking a part amounted to several hundreds, and a body of military brought up the rear. The streets and win- dows were crowded with people in their holiday costume, bands of music were playing, bells were ringing, flowers were scattered about and showered down from the houses. The profusion of tinsel and embroidery was very great, and the balconies and Digitized by Microsoft® 24 BRAZILIAN CHARACTER. windows in the line of procession were hung with rich brocade in all the colours of the rainbow. A short stay, such as ours, afforded very limited opportunities of judging of the national character ; and my impressions on this point were, probably, often erroneous. The Brazilians and English did not then reciprocate very cordially, on account of the existing state of international relations. Of late years great advances appear to have been made upon the mother-country, judging from the increas- ing liberality of their institutions, the establishment .of commercial relations abroad, the freedom of dis- eussion and influence of the press, the attention paid to public education (especially of the middle classes), the support granted to literature and science, and the declining influence of the priesthood in secular matters. The national character, however, can scarcely be considered as fully formed: the Brazi- lians have been too recently emancipated from the thraldom of a modified despotism to have made, as yet, any very great progress in developing the ele- ments of national prosperity and greatness which the vast empire of Brazil so abundantly possesses, and the foul blot of slavery, with its debasing influence, still remains untouched. On February 2nd we sailed from Rio for the Cape of Good Hope. The morning being calm, we were towed out by the boats of the squadron until a light air, the precursor of the sea-breeze, set in. While hove-to outside the entrance, a haul of the dredge Digitized by Microsoft® CROSS THE SOUTH ATLANTIC. 25 brought up the rare Terebratula rosea, and a small shell of a new genus, allied to Rissoa. The re- mainder of the day and part of the succeeding one were spent in a fruitless search for a shoal said to exist in the neighbourhood, to which Capt. Stanley’s attention had been drawn by Capt. Broughton, of H.M.S. Curacoa. At one P.M. of each day, when the weather was favourable, the ship was hove-to for the purpose of obtaining observations on the temperature of the water at considerable depths, under the superinten- dence of Lieut. Dayman. As these were continued during our outward voyage as far as Van Diemen’s Land, and the number of observations amounted to 69, the results will more clearly be understood if exhibited in a tabular form, for which the reader is referred to the Appendix. “Two of Sixe’s thermo- meters were attached, one at the bottom of the line of 370 fathoms, the other 150 fathoms higher up. The depth recorded is that given by Massey’s patent sounding machine. As the same quantity of line was always used, the difference of depth of each day should be triflmg, varying only in proportion to the ship’s drift; yet on several occasions the depth re- corded by the machine gives as much as 100 fathoms short of the quantity of line let out.”* While engaged iu sounding, a process which usually occupied three-quarters of an hour, a boat was always at my service when birds were about the * Lieut. Dayman, R.N. Digitized by Microsoft® 26 OCEANIC BIRDS.—BOAT CAPSIZED. ship, and the state of the sea admitted of going after them,—by this means many species of petrels were obtained for the collection. On one of these occa- sions, owing to a mistake in lowering the stern boat before the ship had quite “lost her way” through the water, one of the falls could not be unhooked in time; consequently the boat was dragged over on her broadside, and finally capsized with eight people in her. Some reached one of the life-buoys, which was instantly let go, the others managed to roll the boat over and right her, full of water. All were eventually picked up by the leeward quarter-boat ; the weather one, from the shortness of the davits, would not clear the ship’s side, but turned over on her bilge, dipping in the water, and was rendered ineffective when most wanted. This defect in the davits was afterwards remedied by the substitution of other and longer ones, which had formerly be- longed to H.M. steam vessel Thunderbolt, wrecked at Alooa Bay a short time previously. Among many interesting birds* procured in the above mentioned manner, I may allude to Puffinus cinereus, an European species of shearwater, which was found to be generally distributed across the South Atlantic between the meridians of 28° W. and 13° E.; on two successive days, while in the * For the occurrence of Procellariade during our outward voyage, with a view to determine the geographical distribution of the species met with by me, see “Contributions to Ornithology, by Sir W. Jardine, Bart.” p. 94. Digitized by Microsoft® PELAGIC ANIMALS. 27 neighbourhood of Tristan da Cunha, myriads of these birds passed the ship to the westward, appa- rently coming from that island. A few days afterwards, while 480 miles from the nearest land, we caught a beautiful tern (Sterna me- lanorhyncha) hitherto considered to be peculiar to Australia. On several occasions the towing net* produced a rich harvest, especially one day when almost be- calmed in lat. 34° 40’ 8. and long. 4°W. The surface of the water was absolutely teeming with marine animals. Of these a small Physalia and a Velella (V. emarginata?) were the most plentiful. The latter curious animal, consists of a flat oval expansion, an inch and a half in length, furnished below with numerous cirrhi and a proboscidiform mouth, and above with an obliquely vertical crest, the whole of a rich blue colour with white lines and dots, the soft parts conceal a transparent cartilagi- nous framework. The crest acts as a tiny sail * Not having seen a description of this useful instrument, 1 may mention that the kind used by Mr. Huxley and myself, consisted of a bag of ‘‘bunting”’ (used for flags,) two feet deep, the mouth of which is sewn round a wooden hoop fourteen inches in diameter; three pieces of cord, a foot and a half long, are secured to the hoop at equal intervals and have their ends tied together. When in use the net is towed astern, clear of the ship’s wake, by a stout cord secured to one of the quarter-boats or held in the hand, The scope of line required is regulated by the speed of the vessel at the time, and the amount of strain caused by the partially submerged net. Digitized by Microsoft® 28 ARRIVE AT SIMON’S BAY. (hence the name), and communicates to the animal a slow rotatory movement while drifting before the wind. Two kinds of Janthine (J. globosa and J. exigua,) molluscs with a fragile, snail-like shell, and a vesicular float, were drifting about, and, together with a very active, silvery-blue Idotea, half an inch long, preyed upon the Velelle. At another time, among many other pelagic crustacea, we obtained three kinds of Erichthus, a genus remarkable for the glassy transparency of its species, also Hyalea infleca and H. tridentata, curious pteropodous mol- luscs which swim near the surface. On March 8th, we anchored in Simon’s Bay ; our passage from Rio de Janeiro, contrary to expecta- tion, had thus occupied upwards of five weeks, owing to the prevalence of light easterly winds (from N. E. to 8. E.) instead of the westerly breezes to be looked for to the southward of lat. 85° 8. We were fortunate, however, in having fine weather during the greater part of that time. The period of our stay at the Cape of Good Hope was devoted to the construction of a chart of Simon’s Bay and its neighbourhood, which has since been incorporated with the previous survey of Capt. Sir Edward Belcher in H.M.S. “Samarang,”’ and published without acknowledgment. The requisite shore observations were made by Capt. Stanley and Mr. Obree, while Lieuts. Dayman and Simpson con- ducted the sounding. Our detention was lengthened by a succession of 8.E. gales, and the state of the Digitized by Microsoft® SIMON’S TOWN. 29 weather throughout was such that during the period of twenty-one days the sounding boats were able to work on six only,—the other fine days were devoted to swinging the ships for magnetical purposes. It was also intended to survey the Whittle shoal in False Bay, but when we sailed, the weather was so thick and unsettled, that Capt. Stanley was reluc- tantly obliged to give it up. Simon’s Town is a small straggling place of scarcely any importance, except in connection with the naval establishment kept up here—dockyard, hospital, &c.—this being the head-quarters of the Cape station. It is distant from Cape Town twenty- three miles. The neighbourhood is singularly dreary and barren, with comparatively little level ground, and scarcely any susceptible of cultivation. I have often been struck with the great general similarity between the barren and sandy tracts of this district, and many parts of New South Wales, where sand- stone is the prevailing rock. In both countries there are the same low scrubby bushes, at the Cape consisting of Heaths and Protez, and in Australia ot Epacride and Banksize,—the last the honey- suckles of the Colonists. ven the beautiful sun- birds of the Cape, frequenting especially the flowers of the Protez, are represented by such of the Aus- tralian honeysuckers as resort to the Banksie. We found the Cape Colony suffering from the long continuance of the Caffre war. As a natural consequence, the price of everything had risen, and Digitized by Microsoft® 30 CAFFRE WAR. there was little specie left in Cape Town. All the troops had been sent to the frontier; a party of blue jackets from the flag-ship at one time per- formed garrison duty at Cape Town; the emergency was so great that even some detachments of troops on their way back to England after long service in India, having put in at the Cape for refreshments, were detained and sent to Alooa Bay. We were all heartily tired of Simon’s Bay long before leaving it; not the less so from having this all engrossing “ Caffre war” dinned into our ears from morning to night as an excuse for high prices, and some- times for various extortions, which I had before sup- posed to be peculiar to new colonies. On April 10th we left Simon’s Bay for Mauritius. Our passage of twenty-four days presented little remarkable. We experienced every gradation between a calm and a heavy N.E. gale; during the continuance of one of the latter, we passed near the “Slot Van Capel” bank of the old charts, the existence of which it was of importance to verify ;* but the heavy confused sea, such as one would expect to find on a bank during a gale, rendered it dangerous to heave-to to try for soundings. During this passage some important observations were made by Capt. Stanley and Lieut. Dayman to * I have since learned that H.M.S. Mceander, Capt. the Hon. H. Keppel, struck soundings on this bank, but have not been able to procure the particulars. Digitized by Microsoft® OBSERVATIONS ON THE WAVES. 31 determine the height, length, and velocity of the waves. The results will be apparent from the fol- lowing tabular view.* Date 1847. Remarks. No. of Ob- servations. Force of Length of Wave. Speed of Wave. Wind. Wave. Speed of Ship. Height of No. |Knots] Feet. = a | Miles, April 21 5 | 7.2) 22 or or 27.0 |Ship before the wind with a heavy fol- lowing sea. » 23] 8] 5] 6 | 20 | 43 | 24.5 » 24) 6] 4] 6] 20} 50/24 » 2] 9] 4] 5 37 |22.1 » 26 4] 6 33 | 22.1 May 2] 6 |485) 7 | 22 | 57 |26.2|Sea irregular, observa- tions not very good. » 3] 7 | 5 {7&8 17 | 35 | 22.0/Wind and sea on port quarter. Oceanic birds were plentiful in our wake, and gradually dropped off as we approached the tropic. * The height was determined by watching when the crest of the wave was on a level with the observer’s eye (the height above the trough of the sea being known), either while standing on the poop or in the mizzen rigging ; this must be reduced to one half to obtain the absolute height of the wave above the mean level of the sea. The length and velocity were found by noting the time taken by the wave to traverse the measured distance (100 yards) between the ship and the spar towing astern. In column 3rd, the number 4 denotes a ‘‘ moderate breeze,” and 5 a‘ fresh breeze.” Digitized by Microsoft® 82 ARRIVE AT MAURITIUS. On May 2 the vicinity of land was denoted by the appearance of four tropic birds (Phaéton ethereus) and a tern; and next evening, shortly before sunset, we sighted the Island of Mauritius, the Bamboo Mountain at Grand Port being the first part seen. We rapidly closed in with the land, and during the night were near enough to see the surf on the coral reefs fringing the shore, it assuming the ap- pearance, in the bright moonshine, of a sandy beach of glittering whiteness. Captain Stanley remarks, that “ the reef on the east side of the island projects further than is laid down on the Admiralty chart, and as from the pre- valence of the S. E. trade a current is constantly setting to the westward, vessels approaching this part of the island should be very cautious, even with a leading wind, not to get too close in with the land until the passage between Gunner’s and Round Island is well, under the lee. At night, also, the distance from the land, when off the N. E. end of the island, is very deceiving, as the plains of Pam- plemousses are very low. The Rattlesnake, in pass- ing at night between the Gunner’s Quoin and Flat Island, experienced a strong set of nearly three miles an hour to the westward, which at times is said to be much stronger, and partakes in some measure of the nature of a tide.” May 4th.—When I came upon deck I found that we had rounded the north end of the island, and were beating up for Port Louis. It wasa delightful Digitized by Microsoft® PORT LOUIS. 33 morning, with bright sunshine, smooth water, a gentle trade wind, and an unclouded sky. The view was very beautiful, and quite equalled my expecta- tions, based, though they were, upon the glowing descriptions of La Pierre. The extremes of the island are low, but the centre is occupied by the partially wooded crest-like ridge, rugged and pinnacled, con- necting La Pouce with the famous Peter Botte. Viewed in a mass, the country looked burnt up, of a dull yellowish red hue,—the higher hills were dark green, and the lower grounds partially so. To the left was the fertile plain of Pamplemousses, even now, in the beginning of winter, one mass of green of various degrees of intensity. As we approached we began to make out more distinctly the sugar plantations, the groves of cocoa-nut trees and casuarinas, the features of the town, and the dense mass of shipping in the harbour. We hove to off the Bell Buoy (denoting the outer anchorage), for the steamer which towed us to our berth abreast of Cooper’s Island. The harbour of Port Louis is of singular forma- tion. It is entered by a narrow passage or break in the coral reef surrounding the island, leading into a large basin, the central portion only of which has sufficient water for shipping. The bottom is mud, which, they say, is fast accumulating, especially ina small bight called the Trou Fanfaron, where a few years ago a line-of-battle ship could float, but VOL. I. D Digitized by Microsoft® 384 ‘SPORT LOUIS. which has now scarcely water enough for a large corvette. The reefs about the entrance are nearly dry at low water, at which time one may wade to their outer margin, asis daily practised by hundreds of fishermen. Passing through the closely packed lines of ship- ping, and landing as a stranger at Port Louis, perhaps the first thing to engage attention is the strange mixture of nations,—representatives, he might at first be inclined to imagine, of half. the countries of the earth. He stares at a Coolie from Madras with a breach cloth and soldier’s jacket, or a stately, bearded Moor, striking a bargain with a Parsee merchant ; a Chinaman, with two bundles slung on a bamboo, hurries past, jostling a group of young Creole exquisites smoking their cheroots at a corner, and talking of last night’s Norma, or the programme of the evening’s performance at the Hippodrome in the Champ de Mars; his eye next catches a couple of sailors reeling out of a grog- shop, to the amusement of a group of laughing negresses in white muslin dresses of the latest Parisian fashion, contrasting strongly with a mo- destly attired Cingalese woman, and an Indian ayah with her young charge. Amidst all this the French language prevails; everything more or less pertains of the French character, and an English- man can scarcely believe that he is in one of the colonies of his own country. May 16th.— Few passing visitors, like ourselves, Digitized by Microsoft® VISIT TO PAMPLEMOUSSES. 35 leave the Isle of France without performing a pilgrimage to Pamplemousses, a pretty village seven miles distant, near which are the (so called) tombs of Paul and Virginia, and the Botanic Gar- dens. For this purpose,—as we sail the day after to-morrow, I started at daylight. The road, even at this early hour, was crowded with people— Coolies, Chinamen, Negroes, and others, bringing in their produce to market, while every now and then a carriage passed by filled with well-dressed Creoles enjoying the coolness of the morning air, or bent upon making a holiday of it, for the day was Sunday. I breakfasted in one of the numerous cabarets by the roadside, dignified with the name of “ Hotel de —, &c.” Numerous small streams crossed the road, and the country, so far as seen, exhibited a refreshing greenness and richness of vegetation. Tes Tombeaux” are situated in a garden surrounded by trees, and a grove of coffee plants, behind the residence of a gentleman who must be heartily sick of being so constantly disturbed by strangers. They exhibit nothing more remarkable than two dilapidated monumental urns on opposite sides of the garden, shaded by a clump of bamboos and casuarinas, the latter usually mistaken for cypresses. In the coffee plantation close by, I was delighted to find great numbers of a large and handsome land shell, Achatina pantherina,—it bur- rows in the earth during dry weather, but some rain D2 Digitized by Microsoft® 36 BOTANICAL GARDENS. which had fallen during the night brought it out in abundance. The Botanical Gardens are close to the church. Among the plants are some magnificent sago palms, almost rivalling those I had seen in New Guinea, during the voyage of the Fly,* and many clove and nutmeg trees, the cultivation of which in the island it had been the intention of Government to intro- duce. Here are some very fine shady walks with ponds of water and rivulets, but although these cool retreats are admirably adapted for solitary rambles and the holding of merry pic-nic parties, I found with regret that the title of botanical had misled me. On my return I was not surprised to see in an island colonised by the French—so little outward respect paid to the Sabbath. Many people were at work in the fields, and washerwomen in the streams, —a party of Chinamen were employed roofing a house, and blacksmiths hammered away within gun- shot of the church, while many of the shops and all the taverns were open in the villages. On a former occasion I had made an excursion to the summit of La Pouce, a remarkable knob-like peak on the sharp crateriform ridge behind Port Louis. Following a path, leading from the town directly to Wilhelm’s Plains, one crosses a small * Narrative of the Surveying Voyage of H.M.S. Fly in Torres Strait, New Guinea, and other Islands of the Asiatic Archipelago. By J. Beete Jukes. Digitized by Microsoft® LA POUCE MOUNTAIN. 37 stream and skirts the steep face of the hill over rough ground covered with burnt up grass, and straggling bushes. To this succeeds a region of evergreens (among which the wild mango is the prevailing tree), where a species of monkey intro- duced many years ago into the island has taken up its abode. I saw none, however, but occasionally heard their chattering as they hurried along among the bushes. Where the path crosses the ridge, it widens out into a succession of rounded eminences, with the summit of La Pouce rising suddenly from its centre in a thumb-like form. Its base is wa- tered by a small gushing rill, and the vegetation now is very luxuriant from the continual supply of moisture. The most striking plants are the tree- ferns (Cyathea excclsa and C. Bourbonica), some of which attain a height of from fifteen to twenty feet. From the eastern margin of the ridge the view is very fine; a sloping precipice, several hundred feet in height, covered with stunted bushes, overlooks Wilhelm’s Plains, nearly all under cultivation and studded with sugar plantations. The soil, when newly turned up, appeared of a dull red colour. Numbers of tropic birds were flying along the face of the cliff where they probably breed. Hight species of land shells were picked up here, either creeping up the grass or under stones and logs; they were of the genera Caracolla, Helix, and Pupa. A narrow path, difficult to find among the long grass, leads to the summit of the mountain, 2,600 Digitized by Microsoft® 388 THE CEMETERY. feet above the level of the sea. The view from the top embraces the greater part of this fine island. The coral reef fringing the shores is well seen,—the pale green of the shoal water is separated from the deep blue of the ocean by a line of snow-white surf. For entomological purposes I frequently visited the Cemetery, numbers of insects bemg attracted by its flowers and trees. The road leading to it, one of the principal evening drives, is shaded by rows of mag- nificent casuarinas, from Madagascar. Some five or six widely-separated religious creeds may each here be seen practising their peculiar modes of interment—Chinese, Mahometan, Hindoo, and Chris- tian; and among the last it was a novelty to me to observe, for the first time, the pleasing custom of decking the graves with fresh flowers, often re- newed weekly for years, disposed in jars of various kinds, from the richly ornamented vase down to the humblest piece of crockery. All the low land here- abouts has been borrowed from the sea; it is a mixture of sand and fragments of coral; and the land-crabs have established a colony in one part of the cemetery, and run riot among the graves. Although well aware of the productiveness of this fine island in marine objects, I was yet unprepared for the sight of upwards of one hundred species of fish, which I frequently witnessed of a morning in the market at Port Louis; but this to me was dimimished by the regret that the most skilful taxi- dermist would signally fail, either to retain upon the Digitized by Microsoft® LEAVE MAURITIUS. 39 prepared skin, or to reproduce, the bright colours for which so many of them are remarkable. Dredging in the harbour was perfectly unsuccessful; outside the margin of the coral reefs which fringe the en- trance to Port Louis one finds a zone of loose blocks of living Meandrine, Astree, and other massive corals, where dredging is impracticable; to this succeeds a belt of dead shells and small fragments of coral; and the remainder of the channel is tena- cious mud, in which I found nothing of interest. After a pleasant stay of twelve days, we left Mauritius, on May 17th, as soon as the last set of “sights” for rating the chronometers had been obtained, and in due time rounded the north end of the island to a light wind off the land. In the first watch a distant light was conjectured, with some degree of probability, to proceed from the well known active volcano of the Island of Bourbon. During our stay at Port Louis, Captain Stanley had complied with a requisition from the Commissa- riat to take some specie to Hobart Town, consequently his previous intention of proceeding to Sydney, by way of King George’s Sound, was abandoned. On May 24th (our noon position bemg in lat. 28° 1 8., and long. 67° 30’ E.) we tacked to the S. W., having found the impracticability of making a straight course for Cape Leeuwin without first get- ting well to the southward, and in due time we reached the latitudes where westerly winds prevail, and were enabled to proceed onward on our course. Digitized by Microsoft® 40 TRY FOR DEEP SEA SOUNDINGS. On June 14th, when in lat. 40° 45’ S., and long. 123° 28’ E., the occurrence of a calm during the forenoon, although accompanied by a consider- able swell, induced Captain Stanley to make a third attempt to obtain deep sea soundings. He had been much interested in the success of experiments of this kind, in which the grand desideratum has always been to produce positive proof of having reached bottom by bringing up a portion of its substance, hitherto unattempted on account of the great length of time required for the experiment, and the disproportionate strength of the line to the enormous weight employed, should any sudden jerk ensue from the heave of the sea. Captain Stanley had at length succeeded in contriving a very in- genious apparatus by which, upon striking sound- ings, the eight 82 Ibs. shot employed would be immediately detached, leaving no greater weight to be hauled up than the iron framework to which the shot was slung, and a small bell-lead with the usual “arming” of tallow, to which portions of the bottom would adhere. The line was similar to that em- ployed on January 12th, as then carefully coiled away in casks, each of which held from 800 to 1000 fathoms, and ran out remarkably well, with- out any tendency to “kink” or get foul; but, un- fortunately, after 83500 fathoms (or forty yards less than four statute miles) had gone out, the line parted, from some flaw, it is supposed, as a piece of the same bore a far heavier weight when tested sub- Digitized by Microsoft® ARRIVE AT HOBART TOWN. 41 sequently on board. The whole weight employed was equal to 280]bs.; and the time taken by the line to run out was 1 hour, 59 minutes, and 56 seconds. Fathom Mark. | Time of Passing. Fathom Mark. |} Time of Passing. Hrs. Min. Seconds Hrs. Min. Seconds 100 0 O 42 1900 0 38 It 200 0 1 49 2000 0 41 #5 300 0 3 8 2100 0 44 3 400 0 4 238 2200 0 47 38 500 0 5 57 2300 0 50 47 600 0 7 39 2400 0 53 57 700 0 9 30 2500 0 57 6 800 0 ll 22 2600 1 0 51 900 0 13 20 2700 1 6 15 1000 0 15 19 2800 1 12 25 1100 0 17 35 2900 1 20 27 1200 0 19 44 3000 l 26 34 1300 O 21 38 3100 1 32 45 1400 0 24 15 3200 1 39 49 1500 0 26 47 3300 1 45 37 1600 0 29 32 3100 1 52 47 1700 0 32 17 3500 1 59 56 1800 0 35 2 On June 24th we entered Storm Bay, and next day arrived at Hobart Town. None of our Australian colonies —I had previously seen them all—reminded me of the mother country so much as Tasmania. The clearings on the shores of the Derwent looked very pretty, and almost English, particularly the spire of asmall church peeping out from among the trees. Digitized by Microsoft® CHAPTER II. ARRIVE AT SYDNEY—BRAMBLE I8 ATTACHED TO THE EXPE- DITION—SURVEY ENTRANCE OF PORT JACKSON AND TWO- FOLD BAY—SAIL UPON OUR FIRST NORTHERN CRUIZE— ARRIVE AT MORETON BAY—PROCEEDINGS THERE—NATIVES AT MORETON ISLAND—ABRRIVE AT PORT CURTIS—SETTLE- MENT OF NORTH AUSTRALIA—EXCURBSIONS MADE IN NEIGH- BOURHOOD—NATURAL PRODUCTIONS—CALL AT THE PERCY ISLES—PORT MOLLE AND CAPE UPSTART—UNABLE TO FIND FRESH WATER—RETURN TO SYDNEY—RECENT OCCURRENCES THERE—SAIL FOR BASS’S STRAIT—VISIT PORT PHILLIP AND PORT DALRYMPLE—INSPECT THE LIGHTHOUSES OF THE STRAIT. WE left Hobart Town for Sydney on July 8th. On the night of the 15th, saw the fine revolving light on the South Head of Port Jackson, and next morning anchored at Farm Cove. Our stay in Sydney was protracted to a period of nearly three months. During this time, in consequence of pre- vious arrangements, the schooners Bramble, Lieut. C. B. Yule, and Castlereagh, Lieut. D. Aird, were paid off. Both these vessels had been left in December, 1845, by Capt. F. P. Blackwood, of H.M.S Fly, to continue the survey of New Guinea, (as will afterwards be more particularly alluded to), and had long been awaiting our arrival. The Castlereagh, originally purchased in Sydney, being Digitized by Microsoft® SURVEY ENTRANCE OF PORT JACKSON. 43 reported to be quite unfit for surveying purposes, was sold to her former owner; and the Bramble was re-commissioned as tender to the Rattlesnake, and continued under the command of Lieut. Yule. Ten additional men were entered on board, increas- ing our complement to 190 officers and men, of whom 36 were placed on board the schooner. After a thorough refit, both vessels were at length quite ready for sea. Meanwhile a minute survey was made by Lieu- tenants Dayman and Simpson of the inner entrance to Port Jackson, where a reef, called the Sow and Pigs, (distinguished by a beacon and a light vessel,) in the middle of the passage, leaves only a narrow available channel on either side. The exact boun- daries of them, with the depth of water, were to be determined, especially to ascertain whether a line-of-battle ship, with her full armament, could pass into the harbour. The shoalest part of the west channel was found to have 21 feet, and of the east 24 feet at low water (the rise and fall of tide being from 5 to 8 feet); consequently, at high water there would be room for a three-decker to enter.* This work was in connexion with a pro- posed dry dockt on Cockatoo Island, above Sydney, * Tt was found by comparison with Lieut. Roe’s survey, made 25 years before, that the inner edge of the shoal had extended considerably to the southward. + This has for several years been under construction ; its importance will appear more evident, when it is considered that a Digitized by Microsoft® 44 SAIL UPON FIRST NORTHERN CRUIZE. towards the expenses of which the Imperial Govern- ment were willing to contribute, provided it were made of such a size as to be available for large steamers and line-of-battle ships. In compliance with a requisition from Sir Charles Fitzroy, the Governor of New South Wales, Capt. Stanley, in the Bramble, paid a visit to Twofold Bay, 200 miles to the southward of Sydney, a place of rising importance as a harbour, also in connexion with whaling establishments, and the extensive ad- joining pastoral district of Maneroo. The bay was resurveyed, with a view to test the comparative merits of the two townships there,—one founded by government, the other by private enterprise. After all, I believe, the advantages afforded by each of the rival establishments are so equally divided, that the question still remains an open one. Oct. 11th.— After a protracted stay in Sydney of very nearly three months, we were at length enabled to start upon our first cruize to the northward, the object of which was to make a survey of Port Curtis and part of the Inshore Passage leading up to Torres Strait. The Rattlesnake and tender got under weigh soon after daybreak and ran out of Port Jackson to the northward with a fine S. E. wind. In the evening the Bramble parted com- pany, her present destination being Port Stephens, large vessel in the Australian colonies requiring repairs, which cannot be effected by the process of “heaving down,” will find no suitable place nearer than Bombay. Digitized by Microsoft® ARRIVE AT MORETON BAY. 45 for the purpose of running a meridian distance, and ours Moreton Bay. One day, while off Cape Byron, an interesting addition to zoology was made in a small floating shell-fish, which has since proved to constitute a new genus,* throwing light, I am informed, upon many fossil univalves in the older formations ; and a rare bird of the noddy kind (Anous leucocapillus) perched on the rigging towards evening, and was added to the collection; for even the beauty and innocence of a tired wanderer like it was insufficient to save it from the scalpel. On Oct. 18th we anchored in Yule’s Roads, More- ton Bay, in 12 fathoms, sand, about a mile off shore, and remained there for sixteen days. During our stay, some additions were made to render more complete the former survey of this important sheet of water. Buoys were laid down to mark the intricate channels of the north entrance, now pre- ferred for its greater safety to the south entrance, although lengthening by about 50 miles the passage to or from Sydney. The wreck of a steamer, and loss of most of those on board, had not long before caused a great sensation, and forcibly attracted attention to the dangers of the southern entrance. Moreton Bay is an expanse of water 45 miles in length, and 20 in greatest width, enclosed between * This mollusc, allied to Litiopa, Professor E. Forbes has done me the honour to publish in the Appendix as Maegillivrayia pelagica. Digitized by Microsoft® 46 . PROCEEDINGS THERE. the mainland and Stradbroke and Moreton Islands. It is open to the northward, but sheltered on the eastward by the two islands forming that side, which run nearly north and south. The Brisbane river enters the bay about the middle of its western side, and, having been the means of opening up an immense extent of the finest pastoral country, it has conferred a considerable degree of importance upon the place as a harbour, although beset with numerous shoals and narrow winding passages, through which the tides run with great force. The entrance to the river has a depth of only 10 or 11 feet at high water, consequently, is available for small vessels only ; the best anchorage for larger ones is five miles distant. The banks are con- stantly shifting, and the channel is intricate. When to this is added that the settlement,— consisting of the townships of North and South Brisbane, and Kangaroo Point, is situated 14 miles from the river mouth—it was not surprising that a proposal had been made to establish a trading port elsewhere in the bay, so that the wool and other produce of the district, might be shipped direct for England. For this purpose, Cleveland Point (at the south- east side of the bay) had been suggested, and the Colonial Government requested Captain Stanley’s opinion on the subject:— which is as follows. “This,” says he, “is the worst possible place I ever saw for such a purpose; from the proposed site of the town, a low rocky point only a few feet above Digitized by Microsoft® MORETON ISLAND. 4? the level of high water, projects for more than a mile in the sea; and from both sides of this, mud- flats, that become dry at low water, extend fora very considerable distance. The anchorage off this point must be of necessity in the stream of tide, which, when it sets against even a moderate breeze, causes a heavy sea. And as the point affords no shelter whatever for boats, it will be absolutely necessary to build a breakwater, at least as far out as three fathoms at low water.” Moreton Island, under the lee of which the Rattlesnake was at anchor, is 19 miles in length, and 43 in greatest breadth. It consists for the most part of series of sand-hills, one of which, Mount Tempest, is said to be 910 feet in height ; on the north-west portion a large tract of low ground, mostly swampy, with several lagoons and small streams. The soil is poor, and the grass usually coarse and sedge-like. All the timber is small, and consists of the usual Hucalypti, Banksie, &c. with abundance of the cypress-pine (Callitris arenaria) a wood much prized for ornamental work. The appearance along the shores of the Pandanus or screw-pine, which now attains its southern limits, introduces a kind of intertropical appearance to the vegetation. Among the other plants are three, which merit notice from their efficacy in binding down the drift sand with their long trailing stems, an office performed in Britain by the bent grass (Arundo arenaria), here represented by another Digitized by Microsoft® 48 PORPOISES AT MORETON BAY. grass, Ischemum Rottboellioide: the others are a handsome pink flowered convolvulus (Ipomea maritima), one stem of which measured 15 yards in length, and Hibbertia volubilis, a plant with large yellow blossoms. Among the marine animals of Moreton Bay are two cetacea of great interest. The first of these is the Australian dugong (Halicore Australis), which is the object of a regular fishery (on a small scale however,) on account of its valuable oil. It frequents the Brisbane river and the mudflats of the harbour, and is harpooned by the natives, who know it under the name of Yung-un. The other is an undescribed porpoise, a specimen of which, however, I did not procure, as the natives believed the most direful consequences would ensue from the destruc- tion of one; and I considered the advantages result- ing to science from the addition of a new species of Phocena, would not have. justified me in out- raging their strongly expressed superstitious feelings on the subject. We observed that whenever a drove of these porpoises came close inshore, a party of natives followed them along the beach, and when a shoal of fish, endeavouring to avoid their natural enemies, approached within reach, the blacks rushed out into the water with loud cries, and, keeping their bag nets close together, so as to form a semicircle, scooped out as many fish as came within reach. Ourseining parties from the ship were usually very successful, but only at one particular time of tide, Digitized by Microsoft® NATIVES. 49 or during the “ young flood.” Sharks are numerous close to the beach, but are generally small and harmless ; one of the natives however had lost his foot at the ankle joint, from the bite of one. There were then no white residents upon Moreton Island, but we found a party of about twenty natives encamped near the watering place. Some of the men were rather good specimens of the race, but the reverse was the case with the females; although the latter on the first day of our meeting them evinced a desire to cover their persons, they afterwards went about as naked as the men, — but the female children wore a small fringe in front. The married women had lost the last joint of the little finger of the right hand,—one had three half-caste children. The huts of these natives are of simple construction, yet comfortable enough, and perfectly waterproof,—a framework of sticks in a dome-like form is covered with bark of the tea-tree (Mela- lewea) and branches of trees. While procuring materials for a vocabulary, I found that even this small party contained indi- viduals of two tribes, speaking different dialects. It was curious to observe that although these natives had had much intercourse with Europeans, a party of them who came on board, could not be persuaded to go below; and one strong fellow (“ one-eye,” as he called himself) actually trembled with fear when I laid hold of him by the arm, to lead him down to the main-deck. VOL. I. E Digitized by Microsoft® 50 ARRIVE AT PORT CURTIS. Nov. 4th.—Sailed from Moreton Bay for Port Curtis in company with the Bramble. The wind being at north, we had to beat out through the narrow channel leading between the banks of the north entrance, probably never before attempted by a square-rigged vessel. On Nov. 7th, we rounded Breaksea Spit, and passed Lady Elliott’s Island,—low, of coral for- mation, and one of the great breeding places of the sea-birds of this portion of the coast. Next day we anchored five miles off the south entrance of Port Curtis, and sent in two boats to sound. On their return with a favourable report, the ship was got under weigh, and ran in under the head sails to round Gatcombe Head, by the channel laid down in Flinders’ chart; but, while following a boat ahead in charge of the master, the signal to “anchor immediately” was made, and we brought up as required, being then about the middle of the north channel. We remained here until the boats had sounded the remainder of the’ approach to the port suffi- ciently to enable Capt. Stanley to move the vessel without risk to a safe anchorage inside, at a spot convenient for landing at all times to obtain the requisite observations for determining an astronomi- eal position, and sufficiently central as a starting point for boat operations. This was effected on the 10th of November, when we anchored in 5 fathoms, mud, at three cables lengths distance from the shore. Digitized by Microsoft® COLONY OF NORTH AUSTRALIA. 51 In January, 1847, the recently proposed colony of “North Australia” was established by a party from Sydney, under Lieut.-Col. Barney, R.E., with a suitable staff of public functionaries. The colonists encountered more than usual difficulties and hard- ships even at the commencement. The transport conveying the first portion of the party, consisting of eighty-eight persons, struck on the shoal off Gat- combe Head, and required to be hove down, a fit spot for which purpose was fortunately found in a narrow but deep mangrove creek further up the harbour, at a place indicated upon the Rattlesnake’s chart. The party were at first encamped upon the south end of Facing Island, but afterwards removed to the main land, upon a site for the new township of Gladstone having been chosen there. The settle- ment, however, was abandoned, after a short-lived existence of five months, in obedience to orders received from home, consequent upon a change in the plans of Government regarding the disposal of convicts, for “ North Australia” had been originally intended to be a penal settlement, or one for the reception of “exiles.” The expenses incurred by this experiment amounted to upwards of £15,000. The survey of the harbour and its approaches occupied a period of three weeks. Although this work had ceased to be one of immediate importance, yet it will eventually be of considerable benefit to the colony of New South Wales, as the gradual extension of the squatting stations to the northward E2 Digitized by Microsoft® 52 PORT CURTIS. from the Wide Bay district must, ere long, call Port Curtis into requisition as a harbour, and thus enable the settlers to obviate the necessity of a long and expensive land carriage to Wide Bay, the nearest place resorted to by the small coasting vessels, communicating with Brisbane and Sydney. In illustration of this important subject, I cannot do better than quote portions of a despatch from Colonel Barney to Sir Charles Fitzroy, dated Sydney, 20th July, 1847, published in a return ordered by the House of Commons. “The extent of land fit for agriculture, within a few miles of the coast, far exceeds the expectations I had formed on my first visit. Timber for dwelling-houses and for shipbuilding is abundant, and of the best description, and within five miles of South Shore Head (the best site for a settlement) there is to be found pipeclay, brick-earth, ironstone, freestone, granite, trap, slate, indications of coal; and independent of a great supply of shells for lime on the immediate site, there is at the head of one of the navigable salt creeks a fine fresh-water stream running over a bed of lime- stone; a second creek, in which the ‘Lord Auckland’ of 600 tons, is hove down, also navigable for ten or twelve miles, termi- nates in extensive water-holes; indeed within the port there are four inlets or creeks, navigable from ten to fifteen miles for vessels drawing eight or nine feet of water, each terminating in fresh water. “The position and extent of Port Curtis, which I take to be the third harbour in importance in these seas, inferior only to Port Jackson and Hobart Town, must shortly lead to an establish- ment on its shore, offering security to numerous whaling vessels, which are now compelled to proceed to Sydney for repairs and supplies ; it must also become an important depdt for supplying steamers on passage to India with coal, which I have reason to Digitized by Microsoft® PASSAGE OF THE ASP. 53 believe will be found in abundance within a few miles of the coast. I have xo doubt also that this port will become celebrated for shipbuilding, possessing, as it does, timber of the highest quality for such purposes, and favourable positions for building, as well as for the construction of docks. “The country is capable of affording all the tropical, as well as a considerable portion of European produce, and will be found highly favourable for the breeding of stock ; indeed, I believe I am correct in stating that numerous parties, with stock to a very large amount, are now within a short distance of Port Curtis, taking up stations, not only with a view to the supply of the projected settlement, but also to the shipment of wool, tallow, &c. direct to England.” A few days after our arrival at Port Curtis, the Asp, as our decked boat had been named, joined us, having made an important addition to the surveys of this portion of the coast. On his passage up from Brisbane, Lieut. Dayman, under the unex- pected circumstances of finding that the Rattlesnake had sailed, instead of coasting along the eastern side of Great Sandy Island, thus involving the necessity of rounding Breaksea Spit, determined upon trying the passage between that island and the mainland leading into Hervey’s Bay; this he fortu- nately succeeded in accomplishing, although under difficulties which his sketch (since published by the Admiralty), will lessen to those who may require to use the same previously little known channel. Port Curtis, comprising a space of about ten miles in length, is enclosed between Facing Island on the east, or to seaward, Curtis Island on the north, and the shores of the main land on the western side, Digitized by Microsoft® 54 FACING ISLAND. leaving to the southward a wide entrance partially blocked up by shoals. Besides the narrow channel described by Flinders as leading between the south end of Facing Island and the large bank of shoal water extending about six miles to the south-east, a second, and much safer one, the least width of which is upwards of a mile, was discovered between the large bank and others of less extent towards the main land. We landed almost daily upon Facing Island, which was traversed in every direction, but nowhere could we find a practicable watering place for the ship; in fact, during our excursions, it was found necessary to carry a supply of water with us, not being able to depend upon obtaining any on shore. The island is 83 miles long and 232 in greatest width ; it is generally low, the most elevated part, Signal Hill, situated at its south end, measuring only 275 feet in height. Its aspect is various; the shores, as well as those of the adjacent main land, are often muddy, and covered with mangroves, fringing creeks, and occupying swamps more or less extensive, while the remainder of the country is either covered with the usual monotonous gum-trees, or, as over a large portion of the sea face, covered with coarse sedgy grass and small bushes, on sandy ground, which rises into a series of low sand hills ex- tending along the coast. During winter there must be much water, judging from several nearly dried up lagoons and swamps,and some empty water-courses. Digitized by Microsoft® EXCURSION ON THE ISLAND. 50 In company with Mr. Huxley, I made an excur- sion of two days’ duration, with the double view of seeing the country and adding to my collection. We started heavily laden with provisions, water, arms and ammunition, besides boxes, botanical paper and boards, and other collecting gear; and although taking it very easily, the fatigue of walking in a sultry day, with the thermometer at 90° in the shade, afforded a sample of what we had afterwards so often to experience during our rambles in tropical Australia. Towards the northern end of the island we found several creeks and lagoons of salt and brackish water, occasionally communicating with the sea, probably under the conjoined influences of spring tides and a strong easterly wind. Towards evening, finding among the contents of our game- bags several ducks, of two species—Anas superci- hosa, the “ black duck” of the colonists, the richest and best flavoured of all the Australian water-fowl, and A. punctata, or “teal,” we had them cooked “ bush fashion,” for supper. The night being fine, we enjoyed our bivouac upon the top of a sand-hill, near the sea, by the side of a dead Pandanus, which served as firewood,—although it was judged expe- dient to keep watch by turns, and go the rounds occasionally, especially after the setting of the moon and before daybreak. We saw no recent signs of natives, however, during our absence from the ship; but former experience upon this coast had taught me how necessary it is to be ever on one’s guard, Digitized by Microsoft® 56 GLADSTONE SETTLEMENT. even in apparently uninhabited places; and such watchfulness soon becomes habitual, and at length ceases to be irksome. Next day we returned to the ship, more than ever convinced of the comparative uselessness of the country which we had gone over for agricultural or even pastoral purposes, except on a very small scale. On our way back we met with two horses, both in good condition, which had been left by Colonel Barney’s party. On another occasion Mr. Huxley and myself landed at the site of the settlement of Gladstone, and were picked up in the evening by Capt. Stanley in one of the surveying boats, on his return to the ship. It is difficult to conceive a more dreary spot, and yet I saw no more eligible place for a settle- ment on the shores of the harbour. A few piles of bricks, the sites of the tents, some posts, indicating the remains of a provisional “ Government-house,” wheel-ruts in the hardened clay, the stumps of felled trees, together with a goodly store of empty bottles strewed about everywhere, remained as characteris- tics of the first stage of Australian colonization. Within 200 yards of the township we came upon a great expanse of several hundred acres of bare mud, glistening with crystals of salt, bordered on one side by a deep muddy creek, and separated from the shore by thickets of mangroves. The country for several miles around is barren in the extreme, con- sisting for the most part of undulating, stony, forest land. I have heard, however, that there is much Digitized by Microsoft® NATIVES SEEN AT A DISTANCE. 57 good pastoral country at the back. We found no fresh water during our walk; of two wells which had been dug by the settlers, through stiff clay, one was dry, and the other contained a puddle of brackish water, not fit to drink. We met with few birds, but saw many tracks of emus and kangaroos. During our stay at Port Curtis, we had no inter- course whatever with the natives, although anxious to establish friendly communication. With the aid of the spygilass, we could occasionally make out a few, chiefly women, collecting shell-fish on the mud flats of the main land, and their fires were daily seen in every direction. The employment of fire- arms against them on several occasions by the crew of the Lord Auckland (under, apparently, justifiable circumstances however), which left the harbour, after repairing her damages, only a few months before our arrival, had probably taught the natives to look with distrust upon white men; and they cautiously avoided our parties. On Facing Island, our sportsmen found little inland to recompense them for their trouble, except blue mountain parrots and quail; but along the shore, curlews, oystercatchers, and godwits, were plentiful. One day I killed a bustard ( Otis Austral- asiana), weighing 223 pounds; the goodness of its flesh was duly appreciated by my messmates. Several small flocks of this noblest of the Australian game- birds were seen; but, from their frequenting the Digitized by Microsoft® 58 SHARKS AND SHELLS. open country, and being very wary, it is only by stratagem or accident that they can be approached within gunshot. No land snakes were seen, but sea snakes seem to be frequent in the harbour. Sharks of enormous size appeared to be common; one day we caught two, and while the first taken was hanging under the ship’s stern, others made repeated attacks upon it, raising their heads par- tially out of the water, and tearing off long strips of the flesh before the creature was dead. Another swam off apparently as active as ever, although a musket ball had been fired through its head. On several occasions a party was sent to haul the seine upon a neighbouring mud flat covered at high water, and generally made good captures, especially of mullet and bream (Chrysophrys); in addition, many other more curious fishes were caught, and several rare and new crustacea— Squilla, Lupea Thalamita, and a new genus allied to Gronoplaa, which will be found described in the Appendix. Of landshells, only two kinds, a Helix and a Succinea, were found upon Facing Island. Of marine species, 41 were added to the collection ; the most important in a non-zoological point of view is a kind of rock oyster of delicious flavour and large size. Nov. 29th.—Sailed from Port Louis for the northward, in company with the Asp, the Bramble being sent to Moreton Bay in order to communicate the results of the survey to the Colonial Govern- Digitized by Microsoft® LEAVE PORT CURTIS FOR THE NORTHWARD. 59 ment, and rejoin us at Cape Upstart. For the next two days light northerly winds prevailed, after which we had the wind from about E.S.E. Dec. 38rd.—Percy Isles. The Asp having made a signal for assistance, and it being ascertained that she had lost her dingey and bumpkin by a sea which struck her while crossing a tide-race, it was judged necessary to run for the nearest place where the damage could be repaired. We consequently anchored under No. 2 of the Percy Isles, to leeward of its south-west point, in 10 fathoms, mud, between it and the Pine Islets of the chart. Here it blew so hard from E.S.E. that a second anchor was let go; the yards were pointed to the wind, and the top-gallant masts sent on deck. A party which attempted to land were forced to return, nor was it thought expedient to repeat the attempt on the following day. We remained at this anchorage until the 7th, and found the gale to subside into the south-east trade. This is the largest of the Percy Isles, being about twelve or fourteen miles in circumference. In structure, it may be said to consist of a series of hills running in ridges, many of them covered with eum- tree scrub; and all with long grass growing in tufts, concealing the loose stones, and rendering walking very laborious. On the western side of the island, about a mile from the anchorage, the sea communi- cates, by a narrow entrance, with a large basin partially blocked up with mangroves, among which a Digitized by Microsoft® 60 PERCY ISLES. creek filled at high water, runs up fora mile. At the head of this hollow a deeply worn dried-up water- course indicated the periodical abundance of fresh water; and by tracing it up about a mile further, I found many large pools among the rocks contain- ing a sufficient supply for the ship, but unavailable to us in consequence of the difficulty in getting at it. Sions of natives were frequently met with, but none were recent. From the quantities of turtle- bones about the fire-places, it is evident that these animals occasionally resort to a small sandy beach near the entrance of the basin above alluded to. The botany of the island afforded at this unfavourable season not more than five or six species of plants in flower, some of which I had met with elsewhere. A species of pine, Araucaria Cunninghami, is found here in small quantities, but more plentifully on the adjacent Pine Islets, where it appears to constitute the only arboreal vegetation. A few cabbage palms, Corypha Australis, are the only other trees worth mentioning. Among the birds observed, black and white cockatoos, swamp pheasants, and crows were the most numerous. A fine banded snail, Helia Incei, was the only land- shell met with. A Littorina and a Nerita occur abundantly on the trunks and stems of the man- groves, and the creek swarmed with sting-rays (Trygon), and numbers of a dull green swimming crab. During our stay, the bush was thoughtlessly set Digitized by Microsoft® BUSH FIRE. 61 on fire by some of our people, and continued burn- ing for several days, until nearly the whole island had been passed over; the long dry grass and dead trees blazing very fiercely under the influence of a high wind. At night the sight of the burning scrub was very fine when viewed from a distance, but I did not forget that I had one day been much closer to it than was pleasant—in fact, it was only by first soaking my clothes in a pool among the rocks, emptying the contents of my powder flask to pre- vent the risk of being blown up, and then making a desperate rush through a belt of burning scrub, that I succeeded in reaching a place of safety. Singularly enough, the Asp’s dingey was picked up uninjured on one of the sandy beaches of this island, and on December 7th we left the anchorage with a strong south-easterly wind, and anchored for the night under one of Sir James Smith’s group. On the following day we ran through part of Whitsunday Passage, so named by Cook, and anchored in Port Molle, in seven and a half fathoms, a quarter of a mile off shore. The best anchorage here appears to be in the second bay as you round the end of theisland, forming theS.E. side of the harbour; it may be known by a sandy beach at the head. During ow stay of two days, search was made for water in every likely spot, but none could be found. In the dried up beds of three shallow lagoons (one of which I had seen half filled four years before), we found native wells, one dug to the Digitized by Microsoft® 62 PORT MOLLE depth of six feet, but the water had disappeared. Port Molle, besides being a well sheltered harbour from all prevailing winds, has a much more pleasing aspect than almost any place I have seen on the north-east coast of Australia. To ourselves the change was agreeable; instead of the monotonous gum-trees and mangroves of Port Curtis and the scantily wooded stony hills of the Percy Isles, we had here many varieties of woodland vegetation, including some large patches of dense brush or jungle, in which one might observe every shade of green from the sombre hue of the pine, to the pale green of the cabbage-palm. Some rare birds were procured in the brushes,— two of them appear here to attain their southern limits of distribution upon the north-east coast of Australia; they are the Australian sun-bird (Cinnyris Australis), reminding one of the hum- ming birds from its rich metallic colouring, and the Megapodius Tumulus, a rasorial bird, the size of a fowl, which constructs great mounds of earth, leaves, sticks, stones, and coral, in which the eggs are deposited at a depth of several feet from the surface, and left there to be hatched by the heat of the fermenting mass of vegetable matter. In addition to these, our sportsmen were successful in procuring numbers of the pheasant-tailed pigeon, and the brush-turkey (Talegalla Lathami), the latter much esteemed, from the goodness of its flesh. Many plants and insects as well as several land-shells, new Digitized by Microsoft® CAPE UFPSTART—FIND NO WATER. 63 to science, which will elsewhere be alluded to, were added to the collection. Doubtless fish are also plentiful here, but we were prevented from hauling the seine by the remains of a wreck in the centre of a flat of muddy sand at the head of the bay where we were anchored ; the vessel, I have since heard, had come in contact with a coral reef, and been run on shore here, in order to save a portion of her stores. Dec. 10th.—In company with the Asp we ran up to the northward to Cape Upstart, a distance of about ninety miles, and anchored in five fathoms off the sandy beach inside the point. Two boats were immediately sent to search for water, but we found the pools where the Fly had watered, in 1844, completely empty; and it was not until the deep rocky bed of the torrent had been traced upwards of a mile higher up on the following morning, that fresh water was met with; but at too great a dis- tance from the shore, to be available for our purposes. Judging from the almost total want of water at all the places hitherto visited on this coast since entering the tropics that there was little probability of our finding it at Goold Island, Captain Stanley determined to proceed no further, but return at once to Sydney, by way of Moreton Bay, and letters were left for Lieutenant Yule signifying this in- tention. Dec. 15th. —Three days ago we sailed for Cape Digitized by Microsoft® 64 RETURN TO SYDNEY. Upstart on our return to the southward, working down the coast against a strong trade-wind, the Asp keeping in shore to survey the neighbourhood of the coast line, imperfectly and erroneously laid down upon the Admiralty chart. We had calms and light winds with thick rainy weather in the morning. While in Whitsunday Passage, a small bark canoe with two natives came off to within a quarter of a mile of the ship, shouting loudly and making gestures to attract attention, but we did not stop ; in fact, every moment now was precious, as we were upon reduced allowance of water. Soon after noon we anchored in Port Molle, and next day the Asp was stripped and hoisted inboard. Dec. 21st.—Since we left Port Molle, the winds have been variable from the northward and east- ward, with calms, and the weather quite unsettled with occasional rain. While nearly becalmed, several opportunities were afforded for dredging from the ship, and many new and curious marine animals were procured. To-day we had the wind from E.S.H., gradually freshening to a moderate gale with the sea getting up, and in the evening it was judged expedient to bear up and run for an anchorage under the largest Keppel’s Isle, where we brought up in five and a half fathoms, sand. A line of breaking water a quarter of a mile to leeward, was afterwards found to be caused by a dangerous reef not indicated upon the chart, where, Digitized by Microsoft® KEPPEL’S ISLE. 65 instead, an anchorage was marked, a circumstance which might have led to serious results, had we run in during the night. Keppel’s Isle is from ten to twelve miles in circumference—it is distant from the mainland six miles. That portion of it seen from our anchorage presented rather a pleasant appearance ; some fine verdant grassy looking places were, however, found on closer inspection to be poor stony or sandy ground, thinly covered with tufts of coarse grass. Behind a long sandy beach abreast of the ship, an extensive hollow apparently running back for two or three miles, flanked by low wooded hills, was found to be a mangrove swamp traversed by several branches of a salt-water creek, by which the flood-tide gains admittance. Here I found numbers of a singular fish of the genus Chironectes leaping with great activity over the mud among the arched roots of the mangroves, among which small crabs (Ocypoda and Macrophthalmus) were making for their burrows in all directions. Fresh water appeared scarce—I came upon one small well, and beside it a large shell for the purpose of drinking from. I followed the recent tracks of two natives, but they concealed themselves among the mangroves, with their usual caution, although armed with spears, as I could see by the marks left during their hurried flight, and they knew that I was alone. A small group of women and children were afterwards met with by a shooting party from the ship, but they VOL. I. F Digitized by Microsoft® 66 ARRIVE AT SYDNEY. ran off affrighted, leaving behind their baskets, which were filled with a small blue gregarious crab, common upon the sandy beaches. After leaving our anchorage under Keppel’s Island, we continued working to the southward against a strong S.E. wind. On the 24th while standing in for the land, about 11 P.M. , the ship was suddenly found to be within a cable’s length of the rocks off the N.E. end of Facing Island, on which we were fortunate in not having to spend our Christmas. Next day a water-snake (Hypotrophis Jukesii) four feet two inches long was caught when we were several miles off the land; it had acciden- tally been hooked by the tail by some one fishing for albacore, several of which fine fish were taken hereabouts. We rounded Dreaksea Spit on De- cember 29th, and two days afterwards arrived at Moreton Bay, where we found the Bramble. During our stay at Yule’s Roads, we had much gloomy blowing weather, with drizzly rain, and a heavy gale from N.E. to N.N.E. After replenish- ing our nearly exhausted stock of water, we sailed for Sydney, which we reached on January 14th, 1848. During this passage we were much aided by the strong current, and had usually the wind between S.E. and E.S.E., with occasional calms. Feb. 2nd, 1848.—During our absence from Sydney, and since our arrival, some events of great impor- tance to the colony had occurred. Public attention had been strongly directed towards the question of Digitized by Microsoft® RECENT OCCURRENCES IN SYDNEY. 67 Steam Communication with India and England, the facilitating of which was one of the principal objects of the Voyage of the Rattlesnake.* Meet- ings to discuss the practicability of forming rail- roadst had also been held. Dr. Leichhardt, the well-known, indefatigable traveller, had started with a party to attempt to traverse the Continent of Australia, and reach Swan River,—and Mr. Kennedy had returned from tracing the Victoria River of Sir Thomas Mitchell, which he found to become lost in the stony desert of Sturt, instead of disemboguing into the head of the Gulf of Carpen- taria, as some had conjectured. During our stay the 60th anniversary of the foundation of the colony was celebrated, and a large proportion of the 50,000 inhabitants of Sydney and the neighbourhood joined in the festivities and amusements commemorating so glorious a day in the annals of their adopted country. When wit- nessing the gaieties of the regatta, I could not help reflecting on the simple narrative of the first founder of what may hereafter become a great empire, a mighty monument of the genius of the Anglo-Saxon race. “The spot chosen for our encampment,” says Colonel Collins, “was at the head of the cove * This project, I regret to add, has not yet been carried into effect, nor does there appear to be any reasonable prospect of its speedy accomplishment. + Ihave lately heard that the first Australian railroad has actually been commenced at Sydney. F 2 Digitized by Microsoft® 68 FOUNDATION OF THE COLONY. near the run of fresh water which stole silently along through a very thick wood, the stillness of which had then, for the first time since the creation, been interrupted by the rude sound of the labourer’s axe, and the downfall of its ancient inhabitants; a stillness and tranquillity which from that day were to give place to the voice of labour, the confusion of camps, and the busy hum of its new possessors.”* Finding that there was yet some time to spare before the arrival of the usual period for leaving Sydney to pass through Torres Strait, Captain Stanley resolved upon acting in accordance with the expressed wishes of the Colonial Government, that he should make an inspection of the various lighthouses in Bass’ Strait, and for that purpose sailed from Sydney on February 2nd, with the Rattlesnake and Bramble. The Asp and one of the galleys accompanied us as far as Botany Bay, which they were to be em- ployed in surveying during our absence, under the orders of Lieut. Simpson. On February 8th, we passed between Kent’s and Hogan’s groups (in Bass’ Strait); the lighthouse on the former of these, perched upon a hill 829 feet high, is admirably situated, and although the night was rather hazy, the light (revolving) shone out with great brilliance, and was afterwards seen from the Bramble’s deck, when thirty-seven miles distant. We caught, in the narrows of the Strait, * Collins’s New South Wales, 2ud edit. p. 10. Digitized by Microsoft® BASS’ STRAIT. 69 numbers of baracoudas, a very bold and ravenous fish, aud withal a good eating one, measuring from two to three feet in length; they bite eagerly at a hook towing astern, baited with a piece of red or white rag, and are taken in greatest numbers when several miles distant from the land, and the vessel is going from four to eight knots through the water. Two days afterwards, the weather being extremely favourable for the purpose, I got several hauls with the dredge in forty-five fathoms, sandy bottom, and, in addition to many curious crustacea and shell-fish, a number of very fine zoophytes, almost all of them new to science, were in such abundance as quickly to fill the net. Feb. 11th.—While standing off and on the land during a fog, a partial clearing up shewed the entrance to Port Phillip, with its lighthouse,* and after passing through between the heads, with the usual strong tide ripple, we reached the anchorage at Hobson’s Bay after dark. I found no alteration in William’s Town, since a former visit made two years ago. The place * Of this Captain Stanley remarks —“ In consequence of being placed so far within the heads, the light is visible to seaward only between the bearings of S}W. and S.W.¢W. A better position would be on Lonsdale Point, when the light would be seen by vessels coming from the eastward as soon as they rounded Cape Schank’ It would also serve as a leading mark for navi- gating the southern channel, but the tower would require to be of considerable height to shew the light over Shortland’s Bluff to vessels inside the harbour.” Digitized by Microsoft® 70 ARRIVE AT PORT PHILLIP—MELBOURNE. appeared to be completely at a stand-still, as a small straggling village of 200 inhabitants, chiefly dependent upon the shipping for support. Far different was it with Melbourne, the capital of the district. On our way in a steamer up the Yarra- Yarra, several large and recently constructed boil- ing-down establishments in full work indicated the extensive operation of the tallow-manufacturing pro- cess. The town (or city as it may, I believe, be termed) appeared to have wonderfully increased of late, and a quiet business-like air prevailed. Every- where we met bullock-teams and drays recently arrived with wool, or on their return to the sheep stations with supplies, but there were few loungers like ourselves in the streets, nearly every one seem- ing to have his time fully occupied. It appeared to be the general and loudly expressed opinion, so far as we could judge, that the separation of the Port Phillip district from New South Wales, and its formation into an independent colony, would materially advance the interests and conduce to the prosperity of the former; and that the large surplus revenue which is annually trans- mitted to Sydney ought to be spent among the people who have raised it.* One day some of us made up a party to visit * These and other claims of the colonists have, I need scarcely add, been fully admitted by the recent separation from New South Wales of the Port Phillip district, now the colony of Victoria Digitized by Microsoft® GEELONG. 71 Geelong, the town in this district of next importance to Melbourne, from which it is distant, by water, fifty-five miles. The western shores of Port Phillip, along which we passed, are low, thinly wooded, and bear a very monotonous aspect. Vast numbers of a large “sea-jelly” (Rhizostoma Mosaica), grave the water quite a milky appearance. I was sur- prised to find the town, only a few years old, to be one already containing about 3000 inhabitants. It is built on a range of low gravelly banks facing the harbour, from which it extends backwards in a straggling manner towards the river Barwon, which, at the distance of a mile and a half, was then 100 yards wide, deep, and without current. The town of Geelong derives its consequence from being a convenient outlet for the wool and other produce of the southern districts of Port Phillip— perhaps the best sheep country in Australia. Four or five vessels were then loading for England. Unfortunately, Corio Harbour, on the shores of which the town is built, is blocked up by a bar, and vessels of moderate size are obliged to remain in Geelong Bay, about five miles off, while discharging or receiving cargo. Five days after clearing the Heads of Port Phillip, we had crossed Bass’ Strait,* and anchored * For every information required by navigators passing through Bass’ Strait, I would refer to Discoveries in Australia, with an account of the Coasts and Rivers explored and surveyed during the Voyage of II.M.S. Beagle, in the years 1837-43, by J. Lort Digitized by Microsoft® 72 PORT DALRYMPLE. in Port Dalrymple, on the northern coast of Van Diemen’s Land, and remained there sufficiently long to obtain rates for the chronometers, and con- nect it by meridian distance with William’s Town, and Sydney.* The two lighthouses of Banks’ Strait only now remained unvisited, that on the Kent Group, and another on Cape Otway, having been left to Lieut. Yule. March 8rd.—With the help of a strong westerly wind we reached Goose Island at 5 P.M., and a party from the ship landed immediately after an- choring. ‘The island is one and a half miles in length, by one in greatest breadth. The rock is a coarse sienite, forming detached bare masses and ridges, but none of considerable height. In the hollows the soil appears rich, dark, and pulverulent, with much admixture of unformed bird-guano. The Stokes, Commander, R.N., and to the Admiralty chart by Capt. Stokes. On this subject I find a MS. note by Capt. Stanley : “Stokes has mentioned in his chart that ‘there is little or no tide in Bass’ Strait.’ Such may be the case, but I have in- variably found a very strong current, depending both as to force and direction upon the prevailing winds, On one occasion, during a westerly gale, it set to the eastward with a velocity of at least three knots per hour. I mention this circumstance, as, from Capt. Stokes’ remarks, strangers might be led to suppose there were no currents in the Strait, and neglect to take the usual pre-- cautions.” * It is unnecessary to give separately the various meridian dis- tances obtained by the Rattlesnake and Bramble, as these will be found, with the various circumstances affecting their value, in the Appendix. : Digitized by Microsoft® GOOSE ISLAND. 73 scanty vegetation is apparently limited to a grass erowing in tussocks, and a few maritime plants. The ground resembles a rabbit warren, being every- where undermined by the burrows of the mutton- bird, a dark shearwater (Puffinus brevicaudus), the size of a pigeon. A person in walking across the island can scarcely avoid frequently stumbling among these burrows, from the earth giving way under his feet, and I was told by one of the residents that snakes are very numerous in these holes, living upon the mutton-birds; I myself trod upon one which, fortunately, was too sluggish to escape be- fore I had time to shoot it, and ascertain it to be the well known “ black snake” of the Australian colonists (Acanthophis Tortor), a very poisonous species. Among the sea fowl, a large gull (Larus Pacificus), was exceedingly plentiful, together with a smaller one (Aema Jamesonii), and a few penguins (Spheniscus minor). A fine flock of wild geese (Cereopsis Nove Hollandia),was seen, but they were toowary to allow of close approach. About dusk clouds of mutton- birds came in from the sea, and we amused ourselves with chasing them over the ground among their burrows, and as many specimens as I required were speedily provided by knocking them down with a stick. As usual with the Petrel family they bite severely if incautiously handled, and disgorge a quantity of offensive oily matter, the smell of which pervades the whole island, and which the clothes I then wore retained for a long time afterwards. Digitized by Microsoft® 74 SWAN ISLAND. The party in charge of the lighthouse have numbers of goats, pig's, and sheep, and also raise a few potatoes and other vegetables ; still their life is a hard one—more so comparatively, than that of the keepers of the Eddystone or Bell Rock lights at home, as they communicate with Van Diemen’s Land only twice a year, and are often in want of fuel, which they have to send for to a neighbouring island. March 4th.— Aided by the remains of a strong westerly wind, with which we at one time logged ten and a half knots—a great feat for the old Rattlesnake, jury-rigged as she was for “surveying service,” we passed through part of Banks’ Strait, and anchored off Swan Island at 9 a.m. The rock is a fine grained basalt, exposed only on the shore, the remainder of the island being a series of sand-hills covered with low shrubs and luxuriant grass growing in tufts. Having left Captain Stanley’s party on their way to the lighthouse, I found on the western side of the island a long sandy beach strewed with marine rejectamenta, among which were many new species of zoophytes ; the number and variety of sponges was very great, but nearly all had suffered so much from exposure to the sun and weather, as to be useless as speci- mens. Returning to the ship before noon, we immediately got under weigh for Sydney. March 9th.—Y esterday morning we picked up a strong 8.8.E. wind, which brought us off Botany Digitized by Microsoft® RETURN TO SYDNEY. 75 Bay by 8 a.M., but the weather being thick with rain, and the land doubtful, being seen only in occasional glimpses, it was judged prudent to haul off, standing in again during a clearing. At length the lighthouse was distinguished, when we bore up, and in little more than an hour reached our former anchorage in Farm Cove. Digitized by Microsoft® CHAPTER III. SAIL ON OUR SECOND NORTHERN CRUIZE— ENTRANCE TO THE INNER PASSAGE—ARRIVE AT ROCKINGHAM BAY—LAND MR. KENNEDY'S EXPEDITION—COMMENCE THE SURVEY AT DUNK ISLAND— COMMUNICATION WITH NATIVES —BARNARD ISLES—BOTANICAL SKETCH— EXAMINE A NEW RBIVER— FRANKLAND ISLES~—FIND THE COCOAS-XUT PALM — FITZROY ISLAND—THE WILL 0’ THE WISP AND HER STORY— TRINITY BAY—ANIMALS OF A CORAL REEF—STAY AT LIZARD ISLAND—HOWICK, PELICAN, AND CLAREMONT ISLES —BIRD ISLES—MEET PARTY OF NATIVES IN DISTRESS — CAIRNCROSS ISLAND—ARRIVE AT CAPE YORK. April 29th.—TuHE season for passing through Torres Strait from the southward having arrived, we left Port Jackson on a ten-months cruize, in order to complete the survey of the Inner Passage, or the clear channel between the north-east coast of Australia and the inner edge of the outer reefs, which again are bounded to seaward by the Great Barrier Reef, stretching from north to south, for a distance of upwards of 1000 miles. In the evening we were joined by the Tam O’Shanter, a barque having on board a colonial overland expedition under Mr. Kennedy, which we are to accompany to Rockingham Bay, 1200 miles Digitized by Microsoft® SAIL ON SECOND NORTHERN CRUIZE. 77 north from Sydney, where we are to assist in the disembarkation and starting of the party. For the first nine days we averaged only thirty miles a day, owing to a long continuance of calms and light winds with a strong adverse current, which on one occasion set us to E.S.E. fifty-three miles in twenty-four hours. At length, on May 8th we picked up astrong southerly breeze, accompanied by a northerly set. On May 12th we rounded Breaksea Spit, and Captain Stanley finding his original intention of passing inside of Lady Elliot’s Island impracticable, or at least involving un- necessary delay, determined to bear up NW. by W. keeping outside of the Bunker and Capricorn Groups, and try the channel previously passed through by Captain F. P. Blackwood in H. M.S. Fly. Captain Stanley’s remarks on this subject are so important, that I give them verbatim :— “ After reaching Lady Ellit’s Island, we steered a course direct for the High Peak of the Northum- berland Islands, so as to pass between Bunker’s Group and Swain’s Reefs, which affords a far better entrance into the Inner Passage, than the old route round Breaksea Spit inside the Bunker Group ; when the course requires to be changed, and the channel is much narrower. We sounded every half-hour without finding bottom, with from 80 to 120 fathoms, till we came to the soundings laid down by the Fly, which we found to agree almost exactly with ours. Digitized by Microsoft® 78 ENTRANCE TO THE INNER PASSAGE. “‘ Our soundings were obtained by using Massey’s patent lead, with which we found we could reach the bottom at twenty-six fathoms, when the ship was going 9.2 knots an hour; and with such a guide any error in the reckoning would be detected, even by night, as the Bunker Group gives warning by the soundings. For a steamer going to Sydney by the Inner Route, this channel would be in- valuable as far as the Pine Peak of the Percy Isles. One direct course will lead out to sea clear of all the reefs, a distance of more than 200 miles, during which period there would be ample time to ascertain by observations of the sun, whether any current had been experienced sufficient to place the ship in danger, and, as the channel between Swain’s Reef and the Bunker Group appears to be clear, there is a drift of thirty miles on each side the course from the High Peak.” May 15th.— After having at daylight sighted the land about Port Bowen and Cape Townshend, we passed the Northumberland and Percy Isles to the westward, the water being very smooth with light airs from 8S. to E.N.E. A very offensive smell which has been experienced in the after part of the ship for a week back, was to-day traced to some preserved meats prepared in Sydney ; 1036 pounds of these being found quite putrid were condemned.* * It is but justice to state here that the English invention of preserving meat in air-tight canisters had only recently been attempted in Sydney; and it was then to be regarded merely as Digitized by Microsoft® CAPE UPSTART. 79 May 19th.— At length, after several days of light and contrary winds, the wind came round to S.E. and assumed the appearance of the trade, which we had at last picked up. We ran round the north-east end of the Cumberland Islands, passed Cape Gloucester, and in the evening anchored under Cape Upstart in our former berth. During a solitary ramble next day, chiefly in order to search for a kind of rock wallaby, or small kangaroo, peculiar to this place, and which I failed on this occasion (as during two previous visits) to procure, I walked as far as the place where the Fly had watered some years previously. The large rocky basin which we had found dry in December last, when the whole plan of our first northern cruize had to be altered, in consequence of this unexpected result, was now nearly full. The aspect of the country had been considerably changed by the late abundant fall of rain, and the vegetation everywhere looked quite green. No signs of natives were seen—their visits to the immediate vicinity of the Cape appear to be made only at rare intervals; and the just an experiment to try whether a new and important article of colonial export could not be produced. Since then, further experience in the process has enabled the introducers of the plan to succeed so perfectly, that afterwards, the colonial preserved meats supplied to the Rattlesnake, including some which had been kept for eighteen months, were always preferred by us to ‘those prepared in England. The meat itself, I allude to beef and “mutton, was of better quality, and the cost much less, Digitized by Microsoft® 80 GOOLD ISLAND. chastisement bestowed upon them some years ago, in consequence of a wanton attack made upon a seining party will, probably, for some time to come, render them cautious of coming in contact with white men. While wading about among the tall grass, the long sharp awns of the prevailing kind, an Anthistiria, were more annoying than can be described, having forced their way in hundreds through my thin clothing, causing an annoying and painful irritation ; to which, the bites of clouds of musquitoes in a mangrove swamp which I had entered in chase of some bower birds, added a finishing touch, as if to test the powers of human endurance. Having expended my stock of dust shot, I tried fine sand—which I had somewhere read of as a substitute, but, although used under the most favourable conditions, the experiment proved a complete failure. “Sights” for rating the chronometers, to get which was the only object in coming here, having been obtained, we left for Goold Island in the afternoon. May 21st. — Passing outside of the Palm Islands, and rounding Cape Sandwich, we entered Rockingham Bay, and anchored on the N.W. side of Goold Island, where we found the Tam O’Shanter. This island is about seven miles in circumference, gradually rismg towards the centre, to form a peak 1376 feet in height. The shores are rocky, with occasional sandy beaches, and the island is well wooded up to its summit; Eucalypti (gum- Digitized by Microsoft® NATIVES AND THEIR CANOES. 8l trees), frequently of great size, being the predomi- nant trees. The grass was very luxuriant and even difficult to wade through, indicating an abundance of water, of which several small streams were seen, One of these streamlets close to the anchorage is well adapted for watering a ship at, as boats can approach within a few yards; and the supply can never, I have good reason to believe, entirely cease. The natives, a small party of whom were here, have had frequent intercourse with Europeans, and indeed the sight alongside the ship of eight canoes, four of which carried two unarmed men, and the others one each, would of itself, to most people, have been a convincing proof of a friendly dispo- sition. That such apparent desire to be on friendly terms might often mislead strangers, is not to be wondered at. Yet these same people, a few years ago, made a sudden and most wanton attack upon a seining party belonging to H.M.S. Fly, and shortly after we left them, they attempted to cut off a small vessel which had called there for water. Their canoes are very simply constructed of a single sheet of bark of the gum-tree brought together at the ends, and secured by stitching. The sitter squats down with his leg's doubled under him, and uses a small square piece of bark in each hand, as paddles, with one of which he also bales the water out by dexterously scooping it up from behind him. VOL I. G Digitized by Microsoft® 82 LAND MR. KENNEDY’S PARTY. On May 28rd, a convenient spot for landing the overland expedition having been found on the shores of Rockingham Bay, we shifted our berth in the afternoon a few miles further to leeward, and anchored under the westernmost of the Family Islands, in order to be near the place of disem- barkation. On the two following days everythng belonging to Mr. Kennedy’s party (with the exception of one horse drowned while swimming it ashore) was safely landed, and his first camp was formed on some open forest land behind the beach, at a small fresh water creek. The object of Mr. Kennedy’s expedition, was to explore the country to the eastward of the dividing range running along the N.E. coast of Australia at a variable distance from the shore, and terminating at Cape York, where a vessel with supplies was to meet the party in October, after which they were to start on their return to Sydney ; proceeding at first down the western side of the peninsula to the Gulf of Carpentaria, and then shape such a course as was best calculated to bring them to the settled districts of New South Wales. Of the disastrous results of this unfortunate expedition, I need not here speak; I shall after- wards have to allude to the melancholy death of its gallant leader, within a day’s journey almost of the goal which he was struggling with desperate energy to reach—the nearest place where assistance could be procured for the few remaining survivors Digitized by Microsoft® Digitized by Microsoft® CUTTING THROUGH THE SCRUB. T & Wi Githmed Hypa Mrwrcloefian 1852. THEY COMMENCE THEIR JOURNEY. 83 of his party, of whom, eventually, only three were saved. I last saw poor Kennedy on the evening before he broke up his camp; he was then in high spirits and confident of success. The party, of thir- teen men and twenty-eight horses (with carts, a flock of sheep for food, &c.), appeared to be furnished with every requisite for their intended journey, and the arrangements and appointments seemed to me to be perfect. Nor did I, despite the forebodings of others, argue anything but a successful result to an undertaking, the blame of failure of which was afterwards attempted to be thrown upon those who had planned it. The small granite island (one of the Family Group) off which we were anchored, afforded little of interest to us. Fresh water was found in small quantities, not available, however, for the use of vessels. The most curious production of the island is an undescribed plant of the singular family Balanophoracee, not before known as Australian, which was found here in abundance in the gloomy brushes, parasitic upon the roots of the tallest trees. We also met with here—in probably its southern limit upon the coast—a species of rattan (Calamus Australis), with long prickly shoots, well illustrated in the annexed drawing by Mr. Huxley, representing the process of “ cutting through the scrub,” during an excursion made with Mr. Ken- nedy, for the purpose of searching for a way out from the low swampy district of Rockingham Bay. G2 Digitized by Microsoft® 84 COMMENCE THE SURVEY. May 26th.—During the forenoon, the ship was moved over to an anchorage under the lee (N.W. side) of Dunk Island, where we remained for ten days. The survey of the coast line and Inner Passage to the northward was here commenced, and afterwards continued up to Torres Strait, by an unbroken series of triangulation ; it included a space varying in width from 5 to 15 miles, extend- ing through 74 degrees of latitude and 43 of longi- tude, with a coast line of upwards of 600 miles. The programme of the survey may be briefly given as follows:—at the principal stations— chiefly islands off the coast—the various observa- tions for determining astronomical positions and theodolite angles, were made by Captain Stanley and Mr. W. H. Obree, and the ship remained there at anchor for several days. Meanwhile, Lieut. Day- man, in the Asp, laid down the coast line and neighbourhood as far as the next station twenty or thirty miles in advance.—Lieut. Simpson with the pinnace continued the soundings several miles fur- ther out, both working’ in conjunction, and often assisted by another boat in charge of Mr. Heath, while the outside soundings devolved upon Lieut. Yule. in the tender. The Rattlesnake in shifting from place to place, aided by boats in company, sounded the centre of the channel, usually following one of the lines run by Captain P. P. King, and marked upon his charts. The available boats per- manently attached to the ship, were employed under Digitized by Microsoft® MODE OF CONDUCTING IT. 85 various officers in the neighbourhood of the different anchorages, cutting up the ground, and filling up any gaps which might otherwise have been left in the new charts. The summit of a very small rocky island, near the anchorage, named by Captain Stanley, Mouna Islet, formed the first station. Dunk Island, eight or nine miles in circumference, is well wooded,— it has two conspicuous peaks, one of which (the N.W. one), is 857 feet in height. Our excursions were confined to the vicinity of the watering place and the bay in which it is situated. The shores are rocky on one side and sandy on the other, where a low point runs out to the westward. At their junction, and under a sloping hill with large patches of brush, a small stream of fresh water, running out over the beach, furnished a supply for the ship, although the boats could approach the place closely only at high water. Among the most interesting objects of natural history, are two birds, one a new and handsome fly- catcher, Monarcha leucotis, the other a swallow, which Mr. Gould informs me is also an Indian species. Great numbers of butterflies frequent the neighbourhood of the watering place,—one of these (Papilio Urvillianus) is of great size and splendour, with dark purple wings, broadly margined with ultramarine, but from its habit of flying high among the trees I did not succeed in catching one. An enormous spider, beautifully variegated with black Digitized by Microsoft® 86 COMMUNICATION WITH NATIVES STOPPED. and gold, is plentiful in the woods, watching for its prey in the centre of a large net stretched hori- zontally between the trees. The seine was frequently hauled upon the beach with great success,—one evening, through its means, in addition to plenty of fish, no less than five kinds of star-fishes, and twelve of crustacea, several of which are quite new, were brought on shore. Among the plants of the island the most impor- tant is a wild species of plantain or banana, after- wards found to range along the N.H. coast and its islands as far as Cape York. Here I saw for the first time a species of Sciadophyllum, one of the most singular trees of the eastern coast line of tro- pical Australia; a slender stem, about thirty feet in height, gives off a few branches with immense digi- tate dark and glossy leaves and long spike-like racemes of small scarlet flowers, a great resort for insects and insect-feeding birds. Soon after the ship had come to an anchor, some natives came off in their canoes and paid us a visit, bringing with them a quantity of shell-fish, (Sangui- nolaria rugosa), which they eagerly exchanged for biscuit. For a few days afterwards we occasionally met them on the beach, but at length they dis- appeared altogether, in consequence of having been fired at with shot by one of two of the “ young gentlemen” of the Bramble, on a shooting excursion, whom they wished to prevent from approaching too closely a small village, where they had their wives Digitized by Microsoft® THE BARNARD ISLES. 87 and children. Immediate steps were taken, in con- sequence, to prevent the recurrence of such collisions, when thoughtless curiosity on one side is apt to be promptly resented on the other, if numerically superior in force. I saw nothing in the appearance of these natives to distinguish them from those of Goold Island, and the canoes are the same. The men had large prominent cicatrices on the shoulders, and across the breast and belly, the septum of the nose was perforated, and none of the teeth had been removed. I saw no weapons, and some rude arm- lets were their only ornaments. On June 6th we ran to the northward 153 miles, and anchored at noon under No. III. of the Barnard Isles, a group consisting of six high rocky wooded isles, the two southernmost of which are separated from the rest by an interval of four miles. I landed upon the two largest, (I. and III. of the charts), on the first only once. I there found nothing of much interest, except some very thick beds of conglomerate superimposed upon a compact basaltic looking rock. No. III., on the other hand, consists of mica slate, much contorted, and altered from its usual appear- ance, and containing lead ore (galena), with several veins of quartz, one of which, about two feet in thickness, traverses the island from side to side. The islands of the N.E. coast of Australia, hitherto and subsequently visited during the survey, afford all the gradations between the simplest form of a sand bank upon a coral reef scantily covered Digitized by Microsoft® 88 BOTANY OF THE with grass, a few creeping plants and stunted bushes on one hand,—-and on the other a high, rocky, well- wooded island with an undulating succession of hills and valleys. In those of the latter class, to a certain extent only in the islands of Rockingham Bay, but in a very striking degree in those to the northward, there is so great a similarity in the vegetation, that an illustration of the botany may be taken from one of the Barnard Isles, No. I1I.—exhibiting what may be termed an Indo-Australian Flora. The upper margin of the coral beach is overrun with Ipomea maritima, a large purple-flowered Bossiea, and some other leguminous plants, of which the handsomest is Canvallia Baueriana, a runner with large rose-coloured flowers. To these succeeds a row of bushes of Scevola Kenigi, and Tournefortia argentea, with an occasional Guettarda speciosa, or Morinda citrifolia, backed by thickets of Paritium Tiliaceum, and other shrubs supporting large Convolvulacee, vine-like species of Cissus ; Guilandina Bondue, a prickly Cesalpinia, Deerin- gia Celosioides, and a variety of other climbers. Penetrating this shrubby border, one finds himself in what in New South Wales*would be called abrush or scrub, and in India a jungle, extending over the greater part of the island. Overhead are trees of moderate size, whose general character is constituted by a nearly ’straight’stem, seldom branching except near the top, and furnished with glossy dark green leaves. Interspersed with them there are many Digitized by Microsoft® BARNARD ISLES. 89 which attain an enormous size, as in the case of a Hernanda, a Castanospermum, two fabaceous trees, and others of which neither.flowers nor fruit were observed. Two palms, Seaforthia elegans, and Livistona inermis, also occur here. By far the most remarkable vegetable productions are the larger kinds of climbers. The principal of these, with a leafless and almost branchless cable-like stem, sometimes two or three hundred yards in length, rises over the summits of the tallest trees, and connects one with another in its powerful folds, occasionally descending to the ground. Another climber, Lestibudesia arborescens, rises by its slender stems to the tops of the trees, hiding them in its cascade-like masses and graceful festoons of exuberant foliage. Besides several other exogenous woody climbers, of which a very remarkable one is a Bauhinia, with a compressed stem spirally twisted round its axis—the most interesting is Calamus Australis, rising in a clump, then arching along the ground and from tree to tree in a similar maner to Flagellaria Indica, here also abundant. Among the other plants of these brushes, are the curious Dracontium polyphyllum, with large simple and {pinnatifid leaves, creeping like ivy up the trunks and lower branches of the trees—parasitical Loranthacez, with long dependant tufts of rush-like leaves—enormous masses of Acrosticum alcicorne and A. grande, with an occasional Hoya carnosa, Dendrobium, or other epiphyte. When the soil is Digitized by Microsoft® 90 VICTORIA RIFLE-BIRD. rich Caladium macrorhizon grows gregariously in shady places, and Hellenia cwrulea on their mar- gins,—and among stones and sometimes on trees, tufts of Grammitis Australis spread out their large and handsome undivided fronds. Two species of rat occur here—one is the large bandicoot of India, Mus giganteus, doubtless introduced by some wrecked vessel, the other is the pretty little Mus Indicus, found on all the islands of the north-east coast and Torres Strait. Among the birds, we found numbers of the Mega- podius, always a welcome addition to our bill of fare ; but our greatest prize was a new and splendid rifle-bird, which Mr. Gould has since described from my specimens and named Ptiloris Victoria, as amark of respect and gratitude for the patronage bestowed upon his great work on the Birds of Australia, in the forthcoming supplement to which it will be figured along with some other novelties of the Voyage of the Rattlesnake. Before taking leave of the natural history of the Barnard Group, I must not omit a pretty butterfly inhabiting the densest parts of the brush ; it is the Hamadryas Zoilus of the Voyage of the Astrolabe, erroneously supposed in that work to be a native of New Zealand. One day I crossed over to the mainland in a boat sent for the purpose of examining a small river seen there to open upon a long sandy beach. We found a depth of four feet on the bar at low water, Digitized by Microsoft® EXAMINE A NEW RIVER. 91 so had no difficulty in entering—at a quarter of a mile from the mouth the water was quite fresh. We ascended about two miles and a half, when it became necessary to return on account of the shoalness of the stream, the boat* having grounded repeatedly. A party of about twenty natives made their appearance as soon as we entered the river, and after making’ ineffectual and repeated attempts to induce us to land, two or three of their number followed us along the bank, while the others made a straight course so as to cut off the windings and meet us at our turning place. The current here ran one and a half knots, but the quantity of water was trifling and the channel throughout very narrow, at times sweeping under the bank, so as not to allow room for the oars. At first the river was fringed with mangroves, afterwards with dense brush. The natives followed us down until we anchored for dinner in one of the reaches, when they all left on hearing the report of my gun while shooting on shore. They were painted with red and white, two of them being smeared all over with the former colour, mixed up with some ereasy substance. They seemed peaceably disposed, as we saw no arms among them, and they approached close enough to take biscuit from our hands. Near the mouth we again landed for half an * Our first cutter, very serviceable on such occasions from her light draught ; with fourteen men, arms, provisions, and stove for cooking, &c. she drew only a foot of water. Digitized by Microsoft® 92 NATIVE VILLAGE. hour, and found a cluster of three or four dome- shaped huts, large and roomy, of neat construction, covered with sheets of melaleuca bark, and having one, sometimes two entrances. Some fishing nets, similar to those used at Moreton Bay, were seen. The men retired into the bush when we landed, nor would they come out to me when I advanced alone towards them, in order to look at the huts. We anchored for the night under No. I. of the Barnard Isles. Megapodii were here very plentiful, and about daylight very noisy, running about in all directions, repeating their loud call of chro-co—chro- co. Some of the bushes presented a fine show of the scarlet flowers of Disemma coccinea, a kind of passion-flower, before only found at Endeavour River by Sir Joseph Banks, during Cook’s second voyage. In the morning we returned to the ship. On June 12th, while passing a small opening in the land, a little to the northward of Double Point, the Asp was observed on shore with a signal for assistance, which was immediately sent, when she was got off without damage. At this place, as Lieut. Simpson informed me, a boomerang was obtained from the natives; we had not before observed this singular weapon upon the north-east coast, and its use is quite unknown on the north coast from Cape York to Port Essington. This one too was painted green, a colour which I never heard of elsewhere among the Australians, whose pigments are black, white, yellow, and red. Near this place, while tacking close in shore, a Digitized by Microsoft® FRANKLAND ISLE». 93 native dog was seen by Lieut. Simpson, in chace of a small kangaroo, which, on being close pressed, plunged into the water and swam out to sea, when it was picked up by the boat, leaving its pursuer standing on a rock gazing wistfully at its intended prey, until a musket ball, which went very near its mark, sent it off at a trot. The kangaroo lived on board for a few days, and proved to constitute quite a new kind, closely allied to Halmaturus Thetidis. We anchored in the evening off the northern extreme of Frankland Isle, No. IV. about three- quarters of a mile off shore. At night a party was sent on shore to look for turtle, but, after remaining there for three hours, having’ walked several times round the island, they returned without having seen the slightest trace of these animals. The Frankland Group consists of four islands, two of which are very small, and each of the other two (I and IV.) about a mile in length. To these may or may not be added another high and much larger detached island situated about five miles to the N.W., about midway between the remainder of the group and the main land. No. IV. is formed of two wooded rocky eminences at its extremes, connected by level ground, consisting of dead coral and sand, thickly covered with trees at one part, and scattered bushes at another. ‘I'he low woody portion of this island is strewed with flat blocks of the same kind of recent coral conglomerate that occurs in situ on the beach, also with quantities of Digitized by Microsoft® 94 SHELL-COLLECTING. pumice twelve feet above high water mark of spring tides. There is little underwood, the trees overhead forming a shady grove. Herbaceous plants are few in number—of the others I shall only mention a wild nutmeg, Myristica cimicifera, not, how- ever, of any commercial importance. The Torres Strait rat was exceedingly plentiful here, in hollow trees and log's, also about the roots of the pandanus trees and under blocks of coral. Our dog's caught many, as they do not shew so much agility as is usual in the genus. The principal bird is the megapodius,—a gecko, and another small lizard are abundant,—of land shells we found a new Scarabus and a small brown Helix, in great abun- dance under blocks of coral, and on the trunks and branches of trees, a pretty Cyclostoma (C. vitreum) formerly found by the French in New Caledonia, also a new and pretty Hela, remarkable for its angular sinuated mouth and conical spire,—this last has been named H. Macgillivrayi by Professor E. Forbes. The reef furnished many radiata and crustacea, and as usual the shell collectors—consist- ing of about one-half the ship’s company, reaped a rich harvest of cowries, cones, and spider shells, amounting to several hundred weight. One day I was much amused when, on hailing one of our men whom I observed perched up among the top branches of a tree, and asking whether it was a nest that he had found, the answer returned was—“ Oh no, Sir, its these geotrochuses that I am after.” Digitized by Microsoft® THE COCOA-NUT PALM. 95 The southernmost island of the group differs from No. IV. in being higher and more rocky. Many of the trees here were very large, straight, and branching only near the top. It appeared to me that they would be highly useful as timber, and so regretted being unable to procure specimens, on account of their great height. With the exception of a low sandy portion, overgrown with shrubs and small trees, the remainder of the island is quite free from underwood. Two small clumps of cocoa-nut trees, loaded with fruit, were found on the eastern side of the island, within reach of the spray, ina place where they might have originated from a floating nut or two thrown upon the beach. This is the only instance in which I have seen this useful plant growing wild in any part of Australia, or the islands strictly belonging to it. We succeeded in shooting down a number, and I know no more grateful beverage than the milk of a young cocoa- nut, especially under the influence of tropical noon- day heat, on an island where there was not a drop of fresh water to be found. As usual the megapodius was plentiful, and one of our party killed six in a few hours. I also shot a fine large crested pigeon, of a species hitherto considered peculiar to the settled parts of New South Wales, and to which the singularly inappropriate specific name of Antarc- ticus is applied ; it thus ranges 3880 miles within the tropics. June 20th.—Fitzroy Island. After anchoring for Digitized by Microsoft® 96 FITZROY ISLAND. a short time to form a station, we finally came to under Fitzroy Island, half a mile from the shore. This island is about five miles in circumference, high and well-wooded, with two peaks, one of which is 861 feet in height. The rock, when exposed, is granitic. The small bay on the western side of the island, where the ship lay, has a steep beach of fragments of dead coral, through which oozes the water of two streamlets, at one of which the ship completed her stock with great facility. Following upwards one of the two branches of the principal stream through a narrow gully, one reaches a small basin-like valley, filled with dense brush, through which it is difficult to pass, on account of the unusual quantity of the prickly Calamus palm. Several trees of the pomegranate (Punica Granatum) were met with bearing fruit; as this plant is found wild in India, and here occurred in the centre of a thick brush not likely to have been visited by Europeans, it is probably indigenous. A kind of yam (Dioscorea bulbifera) was found here, and proved good eating. In consequence of this, a party from the ship was sent to dig for more, but, having mistaken the plant, they expended all their time and trouble in rooting up a convolvulus, with small, inedible, and probably cathartic tubers. A new species of large fruit-eating bat, or “ flying- fox,” (Pteropus conspicillatus), making the third Australian member of the genus, was discovered here. On the wooded slope of a hill I one day fell Digitized by Microsoft® FIND A NEW VAMPYRE BAT. 97 in with this bat in prodigious numbers, presenting the appearance, while flying along in the bright sunshine, so unusual in a nocturnal animal, of a large flock of rooks. On close approach a strong musky odour became apparent, and a loud incessant chattering was heard. Many of the branches were bending under their loads of bats, some in a state of inactivity, suspended by their hind claws, others scrambling along among the boughs, and taking to wing when disturbed. In a very short time I procured as many specimens as I wished, three or four at a shot, for they hung in clusters, — but, unless killed outright, they remained suspended for some time,— when wounded they are to be handled with difficulty, as they bite severely, and on such occasions their cry reminds one of the squalling of a child. The flesh of these large bats is reported . excellent; it is a favourite food with the natives, and more than once furnished a welcome meal to Leichhardt and his little party, during their adven- turous journey to Port Essington. One day we were surprised to see a small vessel approaching the anchorage from the southward. She proved to be a cutter of twenty-five tons, called the Will o’ the Wisp, fitted out by a merchant in Sydney, and sent in a somewhat mysterious way (so as to ensure secrecy) to search for sandal, wood upon the north-east coast of Australia. If found in sufficient quantity, a party was to be left to cut it, while the vessel returned to Moreton Bay with VOL. 1 H Digitized by Microsoft® 98 AFFRAY WITH NATIVES. the news, and communicated with the owner, who was to send a larger vessel to pick it up and convey it at once to the China market.* An inferior kind of sandal wood, the produce of Hxocarpos latifolia (but which afterwards turned out to be useless), was met with in several localities—as the Percy Isles, Repulse Bay, Cape Upstart, Palm Islands, &c. At this last place they had much friendly intercourse with the natives, who were liberally treated with pre- sents. It is supposed that the sight: of so many valuable articles had excited the cupidity of these savages, for, one morning’, at half-past three o’clock, a party came off in “ large canoes with outriggers,” and boarded the cutter when all hands were below. Their first act was to throw into the cabin and down the fore hatchway some lighted bark, and when the master and one of the crew rushed on deck in a state of confusion, they were instantly knocked on the head with boomerang’s and rendered insensible. At this crisis, had it not been for the successful courage of the mate, who cleared the deck with a sword, and allowed the remainder of the crew to come up to his assistance, the natives would probably have obtained possession of the * In 1847 nearly 1000 tons of this wood, procured chiefly from New Caledonia, the New Hebrides, &c. were exported from Syd- ney to China, where it is burnt with other incense in the temples. The sandal-wood trade in these islands gives employment to about six small vessels, belonging to Sydney. In China it realizes about £30 per ton. Digitized by Microsoft® EXAMINE TRINITY BAY. 99 vessel ; as it was the survivors retired in confusion, which was further increased by the discharge among: them of a swivel gun, mounted on a pivot amidships. At Goold Island, where the Will o’the Wisp next went in search of water, they had another affray with the natives, of whom several were shot, but whether justifiably, or from revengeful motives, is known to themselves only. Knowing that the Rattlesnake was upon the coast they proceeded in search of her to obtain surgical and other assistance, and, meeting two of the surveying boats, they were directed to Fitzroy Island. Some parts of this account appeared so extraor- dinary, and others: so improbable, that Captain Stanley felt it his duty to report it to the Colonial Government, along with the depositions of the men. Some days afterwards, the master, whose skull had been fractured, being pronounced to be in as fair away to recovery as was possible under the circumstances the Will o’ the Wisp sailed for Moreton Bay, which we afterwards learned she reached in safety. July 26th.—A party left before daylight in the pinnace and first galley, to examine an opening’ in Trinity Bay, marked upon King’s chart. We found it to present the appearance of a wide creek running through low mangrove swamps, and with the eye could trace its windings for the distance of two or three miles. In all probability this is the embouchure of a considerable fresh water stream, but the shallowness of the head of the bay and the H 2 Digitized by Microsoft® 100 CROCODILES—ISLET IN TRINITY BAY. usual bar off the mouth of the supposed river, determined Captain Stanley to return to the ship, as the time which would otherwise have been spent in exploring an useless creek might be devoted to some better purpose. June 29th.—Left Fitzroy Island for an anchor- age under Cape Grafton, where we remained for the three following days. While running down to the anchorage we entered a large patch of discoloured water, with a perfectly defined margin, yet the lead shewed no difference in the depth or nature of the bottom. It would also appear that since Captain King’s survey the water has been shoaling here- abouts. Ona small island inshore, the skull of a crocodile was found upon the beach, and this reminds me that several of these animals were seen in one of the rivers of Rockingham Bay. The Australian “alligator,” as it is usually called, is a true crocodile, identical, accordmg to Mr. Gray, with the common Indian species. July 8rd.—Ran to the north-west fifteen miles, and, after having anchored midway to form a sur- veying station, brought up finally under a small unnamed islet in Trinity Bay. This island, viewed from our anchorage on its north-west side, presents the appearance of a ridge connecting two rounded eminences, with a sharp sea face exposing the stratification of the rock. This is a micaceous rock, assuming at one place the appearance of mica slate, and at another being a conglomerate, with frequent Digitized by Microsoft® LOW ISLES. 101 veins of quartz. The strata, which are often flexuous, or slightly contorted, have a westerly dip of 60°, and the strike is N.N.W. and 8.8.E. On the windward side there is a long gradual slope, covered with tall coarse grass, among which many quail were found. The shore is fringed with the usual maritime trees and bushes, and an extensive mangrove bed runs out upon the reef in one place. This reef is of great extent, stretching out to wind- ward upwards of a mile, as far as a small rocky isle like a hay-cock. On July 7th we anchored to leeward of the Low Isles, in the northern part of Trinity Bay, in eight fathoms, mud, half a mile from the shore, and remained there for the four succeeding days. ‘This small group may be said to consist of three islets. One is low, sandy, and well wooded, about 300 yards in diameter, and is situated at the north-west extremity of a horse-shoe reef, with its concavity to leeward; the other two may be looked upon as merely groves of mangroves on the reef, the roots of which are washed at high water, except in a few places, where narrow ridges of dead coral have afforded footing for the growth of a samphire- looking plant (Salicornia Indica). The sandy islet presents no remarkable feature. The remains of burnt turtle bones indicate the occasional visits of natives from the mainland. A solitary megapodius was shot, but the only other land-birds are a little yellow Zosterops, and the larger ground-dove (Geopelia humeralis). Digitized by Microsoft® 102 ANIMALS OF During our stay we were fortunate in having fine weather, light winds, and low tides, which enabled such as were inclined to look for shells upon the reef to do so under the most favourable cir- cumstances. This reef is of great extent, with all the varieties of coral, mud, and sand, and proved a most productive one. A sketch of the distribution of the principal of its productions may be of interest to some. Many kinds of fishes, Murena, Diodon, Balistes, Serranus, &c. are found in the pools among the coral blocks; the first of these, of bright colours variously striped and spotted, resemble water-snakes, and are exceedingly active, gliding through the interstices in the coral and hiding in its hollows,—they bite savagely at a stick presented to them, and are by no means pleasant neighbours while wading about knee-deep and with bare arms turning over the coral which they frequent. Ona former occasion I had been laid hold of by the thumb, and the wound was a long time in healing. Crustacea are also numerous; blue and green Gonodactyl leap about with a sharp clicking noise—legions of Mycteris subverrucata traverse the dry sands at low water—and in the shallow muddy pools, dull green Thalamite and Lnupee swim off rapidly, and smooth Calappe seek refuge by burrowing under the surface. Of mollusca, two species of olive (O. erythrostoma and O. leucophca) were found on the sandy margin of the islet—several Cerithia and Subule (S. macu- lata and S. occulata) creep along the sand flats, Digitized by Microsoft® A CORAL REEF. 1038 and, with some fine WVatice, and a Pyramidella, may be found by tracing the marks of their long burrows. Several Strombi and Nassa coronata inhabit the shallow sandy pools; the egg~-shell and many Cypree occur under coral blocks, which, when over sand, often harbour different kinds of cones—of which the handsome C. Teatile is the commonest. A delicate white Lima (L. fragilis) is abundant here, merrily swimming away in the pool under an upturned stone, and leaving its fringe-like tentacles adhering to the hand when seized. Lastly, it would be improper to omit mentioning the very fine oysters adhering to the roots of the mangroves. But these are only a small portion of the shell-fish collected here. Among’ radiate ani- mals, several Ophiure and Ophiocome and other Asteriade, with two kinds of Echinus, are also plentiful under blocks of coral (Astrea and Mean- drina) in the pools; one of the last, remarkable for its very long, slender, black spines, has the power of giving an exceedingly painful puncture, if carelessly handled—for a few minutes the sensation is similar to that caused by the sting of a wasp; of the others, a fine Ophiura is remarkable for its great size and grass-green colour, and an Ophiocoma tor the prodigious length of its arms. July 19th.—Six days ago we anchored under the lee of the reef on which the Hope Islands are situated, but in a position which afforded little shelter. While off Cape Tribulation, a remarkable Digitized by Microsoft® 104 HOPE ISLANDS. hill in the back-ground so strongly reminded us of the Peter Botte at Mauritius, that it was so named upon our chart,—it is 8311 feet in height, the Cape itself being 1454 feet. For about six days lately the weather has been very boisterous, blowing hard trom E.S.E. with a considerable sea. The weather having at length moderated, I yesterday and to-day visited the islands composing the group. A deep and clear channel of a mile in width separates these islands, the larger of which is surrounded completely, and the smaller partially, by an extensive reef. The former, or western one, is merely a long strip of heaped up coral and shells, with a little sand and some drift wood run- ning parallel to the outer edge of the reef, in the direction of the prevailing wind. It is over-run with low bushes, and a few other plants, such as the large purple-flowered Bossiwa, and Ipomea maritima. A long bank of dead coral only a few feet above high-water mark, with an intervening ditch-like hollow, separates it from the sea to the eastward; while on the other side, towards the reef, it is margined with tall mangroves. Small and barren though this spot be, it is yet inhabited by lizards and a species of rat. Besides the usual waders on the reef, I found great numbers of doves and honeysuckers, and, among the mangroves, fell in with and procured specimens of a very rare kingtisher, Halcyon sordidus. Among the man- groves a rare shell, a species of Quoyia, occurred. Digitized by Microsoft® THREE ISLES. 105 The eastern and northern islet is nearly circular, half a mile in circumference—formed of coral and shell-sand, covered with bushes and small trees. The most conspicuous plant is the prickly G'uilan- dina Bonduc, the long briar-like trailing and climbing shoots of which impede one while travers- ing the thickets. A pair of white-headed sea- eagles had established their aérie in a tree not more than twenty feet from the ground, and I could not resist the temptation of robbing them of their eggs. July 28th.--Anchored under the Three Isles, between Capes Bedford and Flattery. The principal one of the group, situated to leeward of an extensive reef, is margined towards the reef by beds of coral— conglomerate, and elsewhere by a sandy beach—it is half a mile in length, composed of coral sand, the highest part not more than twelve feet above high-water mark, with several groves of low trees, and is over-run with tall sedge-lke grass; the second is composed of a strip of heaped-up frag- ments of coral, to windward covered with bushes, and to leeward separated from the reef by a belt of mangroves; the third is a mere clump of mangroves not deserving of further notice. The botany of an island of this class, of which there are many on the N.E. coast of Australia, may serve as a specimen, as the plants are few. Mimusops Kaukii constituted the principal part of the arboreal vegetation, Clerodendrum inerme and Premna obtusifolia form Digitized by Microsoft® 106 STAY AT LIZARD ISLAND. low straggling thickets, — scattered bushes of Suriana maritima and Pemphis acida fringe the sandy margin of the island, and behind these the beautiful Josephinia grandiflora, a large white- flowered Calyptranthus, Vitex ovata and a Tribulus creep along the sand, or spread out their procum- bent branches. Traces of natives, but not very recent, were met with in a dried-up well dug to a great depth, and several low, dome-shaped huts, and numerous fire- places, around which remains of shell-fish and turtle were profusely scattered. Many of the heads of these last animals were here and elsewhere seen stuck upon branches of trees, sometimes a dozen together. , July 31st.—I landed this morning with Mr. Obree, on one of the T'wo Isles off Cape Flattery, and we were picked up by the ship in passing. It is well-wooded, chiefly with the Mimusops Kaukii, trees of which are here often 60 feet high and 3 in diameter. Under the bark I found two new land- shells (to be described in the Appendix), one of them a flattish Hela, in prodigious numbers,— and this more than ever satisfied me that even the smallest islands and detached reefs of the north-east coast may have species peculiar to themselves, nor did I ever return from any one of the 37 upon which I landed without some acquisitions to the collection. We remained a fortnight at Lizard Island, at the Digitized by Microsoft® LIZARD ISLAND. 107 usual anchorage, off a sandy beach on its north- western side. Lizard Island is conspicuous from a distance, on account of its peak,*—the central part of a mountainous ridge running across the island, and dividing it into two portions, of which the eastern is hilly and the western low, and intersected by small ridges of slight elevation. The island is about 24 miles in greatest diameter; the rock is a coarse grey granite, easily decomposible. A large gvassy plain extends westward from the central ridge,—a portion of this, half a mile from the beach, densely covered with coarse grass and reeds and scattered over with Pandanus trees, is usually a marsh. At present it is dry, with a few pools of fresh water, connected below with a mangrove swamp opening upon the beach by a narrow creek. Formerly boats could ascend this a little way, but now the entrance dries across at low water,—nor could the fresh water conveniently be conducted to the beach by the hose and engine, as I had seen done in the Fly in the month of May. Fortunately, however, we found a small stream in a valley on the northern corner of the island, which supplied our wants. Although the dry barren nature of the soil— * Capt. Stanley’s azimuth and altitude observations, taken at two stations at the base, the distance between having been measured by the micrometer, give its height as 1161 feet; and Lieut. Dayman’s barometrical measurement makes it 1151 feet, above the sea level. Digitized by Microsoft® 108 EAGLE ISLAND. varying from coarse quartzose sand (from the disin- tegrated granite) to reddish clay—is not favourable to the growth of luxuriant vegetation, still several interesting plants were added to the herbarium. Of these the finest is a new Cochlospermum, a low spreading tree, nearly leafless at this time, but covered with clusters of very large and showy golden blossoms. A heath-like shrub, (Chamelaucium) common here, was remarkable for existing on the open plains as a weak prostrate plant, while in the scrub it formed a handsome bush 10 feet high, with a stem 6 inches in diameter. Of quail, which in 1844 were very abundant, I saw not more than one or two,—probably the burn- ing of the grass during the breeding season had effected this partial clearance. Snakes appear to be numerous.—two out of three which I examined were poisonous—the other was the diamond snake of New South Wales. A very fine land shell, Hehax bipartita, was found in colonies at the roots of the trees and bushes. A large and handsome cowrie, Cyprea Mauritiana, generally distributed among the islands of the Pacific, was here found for the first time in Australia. Aug. 1st.—I crossed over to Hagle Island with . Mr. Brown, and spent a day and night there. This place was so named by Cook, who states in explana- tion of the name,—“ We found here the nest of some other bird, we knew not what, of a most enormous size. It was built with sticks upon the Digitized by Microsoft® EAGLE ISLAND. 109 ground, and was no less than 26 feet in circum- ference, and two feet eight inches high.”* An American professort conjectures the above nest to have possibly been that of the Dinornis, the gigan- tic New Zealand bird, known only by its fossil remains. A very slight knowledge, however, of ornithology, would be sufficient to confute the notion of any struthious bird constructing a nest of this kind, or of a wingless land bird of great size inhabiting an islet only a quarter of a mile in length. Both Mr. Gould and myself have seen nests of the same construction, the work of the large fishing-eagle of Australia. This island is low and sandy, with a few casuari- nas, or “she-oaks,” a fringe of Surana maritima, some ZYournefortie, and thickets of Clerodendrum inerme. Land rail and other birds were numerous. The reef, which is very extensive, did not dry throughout at low water, but some sand banks along its lee margin were exposed, and upon them I found the greatest assemblage of “ pretty” shells that I ever met with at one place. What would not many an amateur collector have given to spend an hour here? There were fine Terebre in abundance, orange-spotted mitres, minutely-dotted cones, red- mouthed Strombi, glossy olives, and magnificent Natice, all ploughing up the wet sand in every * Hawkesworth’s Voyages, vol. ii. p. 599. + In Silliman’s Journal for July, 1844. Digitized by Microsoft® 110 FIND A HUMAN SKULL. direction,—yet, with two exceptions, they are to be seen in every collection in Europe. As usual we found plentiful remains of recent turtle feasts: One of the boat’s crew, not over- stocked with brains, during his rambles picked up a human skull with portions of the flesh adhering. Accidentally learning this from the conversation of the men at our bivouac during supper, inquiry was made, when we found that he had foolishly thrown it into the sea, nor could it be found during a subsequent search. I was anxious to determine whether it was aboriginal or not. On the one hand, the natives of all parts of Australia usually evince the strongest desire to bury or conceal their own dead; on the other, there might have been some connexion between the skull and the remains of a hut of European construction, portions of clothing, a pair of shoes, some tobacco, and fragments of a whale boat seen here.— But all is mere conjecture. August 14th.—After leaving Lizard Island, we passed to the southward. of No. III. of the Howick Isles, and. anchored off the N.W. extremity of No. I. in 63 fathoms, mud. This is the largest of a group of about ten islands, which agree in being low, and covered for the most part with mangroves. No. I., however, is distinguished by having three bare hillocks at its south-eastern end, the central one of which forms a rather conspicuous peak. A party of natives was there seen watching our move- ments, but no communication with them was at- Digitized by Microsoft® HOWICK. ISLES. 111 tempted. Opposite the ship we landed on a small sandy, bushy portion of the island, slightly elevated, fronted by the reef, and backed by mangroves. We found here the usual indications of occasional visits of the natives in a pit dug asa well, and numerous remains of turtle and fish about the fire- places. A few quails, doves, and other common birds were met with. On August 18th we removed to an anchorage under No. VI., the second largest of the group. With the exception of a sandy, grassy plain, half a mile in length, the whole of the island is densely covered with mangroves, and fringed with a reef of coral, chiefly dead. Great numbers of large turtle- shells were scattered about, shewing the periodical abundance of these animals. Another large “ vam- pyre-bat,” Pteropus funereus, differing from that of Fitzroy Island, was met with in great numbers among the mangroves,—a very large assemblage of these animals on the wing’, seen from the ship while approaching the island, quite resembled a flock of rooks. Here, as elsewhere on the mangrove-clad islands, a large honeysucker (Ptilotis chrysotis) filled the air with its loud and almost incessant, but varied and pleasing notes,—I mention it, because it is the only bird we ever met with on the north- east coast of Australia which produced anything like a song. Aug. 21st.—We ran to the N.E. about twenty- eight miles, and anchored off Cape Melville, a Digitized by Microsoft® 112 CAPE MELVILLE. remarkable granitic promontory; here the Great Barrier Reef closely approaches the coast, being distant only ten miles, and visible from the ship. A few miles to the south some pine-trees were seen on the ridges, as had previously been noticed by Cun- ningham, during King’s Voyage. They appeared to be the same kind as that formerly alluded to at the Percy Isles, in which case this useful tree has a range on the north-east coast of 500 miles of latitude, being found as far south as Port Bowen. Next day we shifted our berth to a more secure anchorage under the neighbouring Pipon Islets, where the Bramble joined us in the evening. The schooner had been sent on in advance of the ship to the northward nearly a month before, in order to be at the head of Princess Charlotte’s Bay during the first week in August, according to an arrange- ment made by Captain Stanley with Mr. Kennedy, but no signs of the overland expedition were met with during ten days spent at the rendezvous.* While at this anchorage, the Bramble, being in want of water, filled up at a small stream, inside of Cape Melville, assisted by some of our boats and people. The party so employed was one day attacked by a number of natives, but, the usual precaution of having sentries posted and a guard * We afterwards learned that it was not until the middle of October (or two months afterwards) that Kennedy’s party reached the latitude of Princess Charlotte Bay, at a considerable distance too, from the coast Digitized by Microsoft® PELICAN ISLAND. 118 of marines close at hand prevented the loss of life on our part. Aug. 28th.— After a run of 45 miles, we reached Pelican Island, the survey of the space thus rapidly gone over being left to Lieutenant Yule and the Bramble. The island is rather more than a quarter of a mile in length, with a large reef to wind- ward; it is low and sandy, covered with coarse grass, and a bushy yellow-flowered Sida. Great numbers of birds frequent this place; of these the pelicans (Pelecanus conspicillatus) are the most remarkable, but, incubation having ceased, they were so wary that it was not without some trouble that two were killed out of probably a hundred or more. > All four were built upon exactly the same plan. The supporting posts are four in number, and raise the floor about four and a half feet from the ground, leaving a clear space beneath. Before entering the body of the hut each post passes through an oval disc of wood, a foot and a half in diameter, the object of which is probably to prevent the ingress into the dwelling of snakes, rats, or other vermin, most likely the Mus Indicus, with which all the Digitized by Microsoft® DESCRIPTION OF HUTS. 225 islands to the westward are overrun. To the stout uprights are lashed transverse bars supporting three long parallel timbers running the whole length of the floor; on these seven or eight transverse poles are laid, crossed by about a dozen longitudinal and slighter ones, on which a flooring of long strips of the outer wood of the cocoa-nut tree is laid across. After penetrating the floor, the main posts rise five feet higher, where they are connected at top by others as tie-beams, which cross them, and project a little further to sustain the two lateral of the five longitudinal supports of the roof, which, at the gable ends, are further secured by other tie-beams. On the two central cross-bars also is laid a platform running one half the length of the hut, floored on one side, forming a partial upper mass VOL. I. Q Digitized by Microsoft® 226 DESCRIPTION OF HUTS. story, with a space of three feet between it and the ceiling. The sides and roof are formed of slender poles or rafters arching over from side to side, secured by lashings of rattan to five poles running lengthways; the whole forming a strong framework thatched over with coarse grass pulled up by the roots in large tufts, with a few cocoa-palm leaves laid over all. The lower part of the sides and upper portion of the ends under the overhanging gables are formed by strips of coarse matting. There are usually entrances at both ends, and the centre of one side, closed by a flap of matting finer than the rest. Opposite each door an inclined beam—one end of which rests on the ground, and the other leans against the fork of a short upright post—-serves as a step for mounting by. Near these huts were several large sheds, open at one side, where the cooking is performed,—judging from the remains of fires under them. On two small stages, planked over, we saw a number of thin and neatly carved earthen pots, blackened with smoke; these are usually a foot in diameter, but one was as much as eighteen inches. I was struck with a feature exhibiting the cleanly habits of these savages, from whom in this respect the inhabitants of many villages in the mother country might take a lesson,—it consisted in the well swept ground, where not a stray stone or leaf was suffered to re- main, and the absence about the dwellings of every- thing offensive to the smell or sight. I could not Digitized by Microsoft® FOOD OF THE NATIVES. 227 help contrasting the condition of these people with that of the Australian blacks, a considerable por- tion of whose time, at certain periods of the year, is spent in shifting about from place to place, searching for food, living from hand to mouth, and leading a hard and precarious life. But here, on this little island, the cocoa-nut tree alone would be sufficient to supply many of the principal wants of man. The fruit serves both for food and drink,— the shell is used to carry about water in,*—the fibres of the husk are converted into cordage, and the leaves into matting, while the wood is fashioned into spears and other useful articles. The cultiva- tion of bananas and yams—of the latter of which, and of two other edible roots, we saw large quanti- ties in the huts,—costs him very little trouble,—he occasionally keeps a few pigs, and when inclined, can always catch plenty of fish, and occasionally a turtle upon the reefs at low water. Before leaving the beach I presented old Wadai with an axe, as a recompence for his civility. The poor man looked quite bewildered at his unexpected good fortune, and for a little while was quite speech- less,—not understanding the nature of a gift, or being taken with a sudden fit of generosity, he afterwards waded out to the boat with some cocoa- nuts to give me in return. * Some of these are represented in the preceding woodcut, — the hole in the top is usually plugged with a portion of banana leaf. Q 2 Digitized by Microsoft® 298 BARTERING FOR YAMS, July 4th.—The first cutter was sent to Brierly Island to-day, for the double purpose of endeavour- ing to procure yams from the natives for the use of the ship’s company, and enabling me to make addi- tions to my vocabulary and collection. Mr. Brady took charge of the bartering, and drawing a number of lines upon the sandy beach, explained that when each was covered with a yam he would give an axe in return. At first some little difficulty occurred as the yams were brought down very slowly—two or three at a time,—but at length the first batch was completed and the axe handed over. The man who got it—the sword-bearer of yesterday—had been trembling with anxiety for some time back, holding Mr. Brady by the arm and watching the promised axe with eager eye. When he obtained possession of it he became quite wild with joy, laughing and screaming, and flourishing the axe over his head. After this commencement the bartering went on briskly amidst a great deal of uproar, the men pas- sing between the village and the beach at full speed, with basketfuls of yams, and too intent upon getting the hiram kelumai (iron-axes), to think of anything else. Meanwhile Mr. Huxley and myself walked about unheeded by almost any one. The women kept themselves in the bush at a little distance, making a great noise, but avoided shewing them- selves. Occasionally we caught a glimpse of these sable damsels, but only one female came near us,— a meagre old woman who darted past with an axe Digitized by Microsoft® NATIVES GET TIRED OF US. 229 in her hand, and sprang up into one of the huts like a harlequin, shewing at the same time more of her long shrivelled shanks than was strictly decorous. Besides the usual petticoat reaching to the knee, made of a grass or some leaf—perhaps of the pan- danus,—cut into long shreds, this dame wore a somewhat similar article round the neck, hanging over the breast and shoulders, leaving the arms free. An axe was offered to one of the men, who had pre- viously sat for his portrait, to induce him to bring the woman to Mr. Huxley, who was anxious to get a sketch of a female, but in spite of the strong in- ducement we did not succeed, and any further notice taken of the woman seemed to give offence. While wandering about the place we came upon a path leading in to the adjacent brush, but blocked up by some cocoa-nut leaves recently thrown across. This led past an enclosure of about three-quarters of an acre, neatly and strongly fenced in, probably used as a pen for keeping pigs in, judging from the absence of anything like cultivation, and the trodden-down appearance, apparently made by these animals, a jaw bone of'one of which was picked up close by. At length the natives appeared anxious to get rid of us, after obtaining about seventeen axes and a few knives, in return for 868 pounds of yams, which cost us little more than a halfpenny per pound. After wading out to the boat, the natives assisted in shoving her off, and when we had got well clear of Digitized by Microsoft® 230° THEIR SUSPICIOUS CONDUCT. the beach, they treated us to what might have been one of their dances, dividing into two parties, and with wild pantomimic gesture, advancing and re- tiring, and going through the motion of throwing the spear, with one or two of which each was pro- vided. Even during the height of the bartering very few of the natives had laid aside their weapons, and it was evident that they were influenced by no very friendly feeling towards us, and were glad to be | relieved of our presence. They had latterly become more noisy than usual, and even insolent, and I believe that had we staid a little longer, hostilities would have commenced, as they probably regarded our forbearance to be the result of fear. We landed on the opposite side of the island to give me an opportunity of procuring some specimens, as it was judged that our shooting there would not annoy the inhabitants. The boat remained off at anchor while some of us strolled along the beach, getting an occasional shot. Birds however were few. Among those seen were the fishing-eagle, osprey, and two smaller birds—all Australian. On the slope behind the beach we saw for the first time signs of cultivation,—in a small plantation of bananas and yams. There was no fence, but the ground had been partially cleared, leaving the stumps of the smaller trees and shrubs as posts for the yam plants (a Dioscorea with broad heart-shaped leaves) to train themselves upon. After a stay of nearly an hour, we were moving down towards the boat, when Digitized by Microsoft® THEIR SUSPICIOUS CONDUCT. 231 the natives made their appearance round the point, coming up in straggling order. One in advance of the rest came along at a rapid pace with his spear poised, and pointed it at the nearest of our party, when within a few yards of him, with what intention I do not presume to say,—but the natives were evi- dently in a state of great excitement. As they might erroneously have supposed that we had been making free with their cocoa-nuts and yams, some grass which had been cut for the sheep on board was taken out of the bag and shewn them as being: intended for our bobo (pigs)—which they appeared to understand. The one among them who had yesterday made the allusion to Joannet Island pointed to our guns, talking at the same time with great energy, and making signs as if wishing to see the use of a weapon of whose wonderful effects he had lately heard. As many swallows were flying about, I told Wilcox,—probably the best shot of the party—to shoot one, which was done cleverly, and the bird fell at our feet. The indications of surprise were not so great as I expected to have seen exhi- bited, but after several more shots had been fired, some with ball along the water, a few of the natives began to shew signs of uneasiness and sneaked away. Old Wadai, however (perhaps feeling per- fectly secure under the shelter of his perfect in- significance), and one or two others sat down under a tree beside us, apparently unconcerned, and some Digitized by Microsoft® 232 FORM VOCABULARY. of the rest remained on the beach until after our departure. We did not afterwards land upon Brierly Island, so I may conclude with a short description. It is not more than half a mile in length, with a central ridge attaining the height of 347 feet, and sloping downwards at each end. It is well wooded with low trees and brushwood, and mixed up with them there is a profusion of cocoa-palms scattered about in clumps, from the margin of the beach to the shoulders of the hill; long coarse grass, at this time of a beautiful light green tint, covered the re- mainder. The usual fringing coral reef surrounds the island, running off to a great distance in one direction. The greater part of the shore and the projecting points are rocky (where the soft splintery mica slate has been exposed), with occasional sandy beaches. We saw no fresh water, but the de- clivities here and there shewed deep furrows in the red clayey soil, the effects-of torrents after heavy rains. To-day and yesterday I obtained in all about 180 words of the language of the Brierly Island people. The small vocabulary thus formed, the first ever obtained in the Louisiade Archipelago, leads to some interesting results, and fills up one of the gaps in the chain of philological affinities which may afterwards be brought to bear upon the perplexing question—Whence has Australia been Digitized by Microsoft® LANGUAGE OF THE LOUISIADE. 2338 _ _. peopled? Taking the numerals as affording in the present instance the most convenient materials for hasty comparison, I find words in common—not only with those of other divisions of the Pelagian Negroes,* as the inhabitants of the north coast of New Guinea on the one hand, and New Ireland on the other, but also with the Malay and the various Polynesian languages or dialects spoken from New Zealand to Tahiti} This latter affinity between the woolly and straight-haired sections of oceanic blacks appears to me to render it more curious and unexpected that the language of the Louisiade should completely differ from that of the northern part of Torres Strait,f the inhabitants of both being connected by strong general similarity and occa- sionally identity in manners and customs, and having many physical characteristics common to both. Yet while the natives of the Louisiade use the decimal system of the Malays and Polynesians, the Torres Strait islanders have simple words to express the numerals one and two only, while three is represented by a compound.§ * Natural History of Man, by J. C, Pritchard, M.D. 2nd ed. p. 326. + D’Urville’s Voyage de l’Astrolabe. Philologie. Tom, ii. t Jukes’ Voyage of the Fly, vol. ii. p. 274. § These remarks I give as written in my journal, with the sole exception of the term Pelagian Negroes. The reader is referred to Dr. Latham’s observations on my Vocabularies in the Appendix to this work. Digitized by Microsoft® 234 ATTACK UPON THE SURVEYING BOATS. July 6th.—Lieutenants Dayman and Simpson, with the pinnace and second galley, returned to the ship after an absence of several days. On the morning of the 4th, after having spent the night at anchor in one of the bays on the south side of Joannet Island, they were attacked by the natives under the following circumstances :—In the grey of the morning the look-outs reported the approach of three canoes, with about ten men in each. On two or three persons shewing themselves in the bow of the pinnace in front of the rain-awning, the natives ceased paddling, as if baulked in their design of surprising the large boat, but, after a short con- sultation, they came alongside in their usual noisy manner. After a stay of about five minutes only they pushed off to the galley, and some more sham bartering was attempted, but they had nothing to give in exchange for the kelumat so much coveted. In a short time the rudeness and overbearing inso- lence of the natives had risen to a pitch which left no doubt of their hostile intentions. The anchor was got up, when some of the blacks seized the painter, and others in trying to capsize the boat brought the gunwale down to the water’s edge, at the same time grappling with the men to pull them out, and dragging the galley in-shore towards the shoal water. The bowman, with the anchor in his hand, was struck on the head with a stone-headed axe, the blow was repeated, but fortu- nately took effect only on the wash-streak; another Digitized by Microsoft® ATTACK UPON THE SURVEYING BOATS. 235 of the crew was struck at with a similar weapon, but warded off the blow, although held fast by one arm, when, just as the savage was making another stroke, Lieutenant Dayman, who until now had exercised the utmost forbearance, fired at him with a musket. The man did not drop although wounded in the thigh; but even this, unquestion- ably their first experience of fire-arms, did not intimidate the natives, one of whom, standing on a block of coral, threw a spear which passed across the breast of one of the boat’s crew and lodged in the bend of one arm, opening the vein. They raised a loud shout when the spear was seen to take effect, and threw several others which missed. Lieutenant Simpson, who had been watching what was going on then fired from the pinnace with buck shot and struck them, when, finding that the large boat, although at anchor, could assist the smaller one, the canoes were paddled in-shore in great haste and confusion. Some more musket shots were fired, and the galley went in chase endeavouring to turn the canoes, so as to bring them under the fire of the pinnace’s 12-pounder howitzer, which was speedily mounted and fired. The shot either struck one of the canoes or went within a few inches of the mark, on which the natives instantly jumped overboard into the shallow water, making for the mangroves, which they succeeded in reaching, dragging their canoes with them. Two rounds of grape-shot crashing through Digitized by Microsoft® 236 ATTACK UPON THE SURVEYING BOATS. the branches dispersed the party, but afterwards they moved two of the canoes out of sight. The remaining one was brought out after breakfast by the galley under cover of the pinnace, and was towed off to some distance. The paddles having been taken out and the spears broken and left in her, she was let go to drift down towards a village whence the attacking party were supposed to have come. Some blood in this canoe, although not the one most aimed at, shewed that the firing had not been ineffective. This act of deliberate treachery was perpetrated by persons who had always been well-treated by us, for several of the natives present were recognised as having been alongside the ship in Coral Haven. This, their first act of positive hostility, affords, I think, conclusive evidence of the savage disposition of the natives of this part of the Louisiade when excited by the hope of plunder, and shews that no confidence should ever be reposed in them unless, perhaps, in the presence of a numerically superior force, or the close vicinity of the ship. At the same time the boldness of these savages in attacking, with thirty men in three canoes, two boats known to con- tain at least twenty persons—even in hopes of taking them by surprise—and in not being at once driven off upon feeling the novel and deadly effects of musketry, indicates no little amount of bravery. In the course of the same day, when Lieut. Dayman was close in-shore with the galley laying down the Digitized by Microsoft® CHANGEABLE WEATHER. 237 coast line, he had occasion to approach the native village before alluded to, and observed the men following the boat along the beach within gunshot, sharpening and poising their spears, violently gesticulating and calling out loudly, as if daring him to land. A favourable opportunity was now afforded for punishing the natives for their treachery ; but from highly commendable motives of humanity, no steps were taken for this purpose by Lieut. Day- man, and they were treated with silent contempt. July 10th.—The Bramble and two of our boats were sent to ascertain whether an easy passage to the westward existed in-shore near the islands (the Calvados Group) extending in that direction, while, at the same time, the ship stood to the southward and anchored in 28 fathoms, four miles inside the barrier-reef. On our way we passed numerous small coral patches, and others were afterwards found to the westward, running in irregular lines, and partially blocking up the passage inside the barrier, which it was expected would have been found clear. We remained here for five days, during which period we had much variety of weather—sometimes blowing hard from E.S.E. to E.N.E. with squalls and thick gloomy weather—at other times nearly a calm, the air disagreeably close and muggy, the temperature varying from 75° to 85°, with occasional heavy rain. Small fish appeared to abound at this anchorage. I had never before seen the sucking-fish (Hcheneis Digitized by Microsoft® 238 SUCKING-FISH AND SHARK. Remora) so plentiful as at this place; they caused much annoyance to our fishermen by carrying off baits and hooks, and appeared always on the alert, darting out in a body of twenty or more from under the ship’s bottom when any offal was thrown over- board. Being quite a nuisance, and useless as food, Jack often treated them as he would a shark, by “ spritsail-yarding,” or some still less refined mode of torture. One day some of us while walking the poop had our attention directed to a sucking-fish about two and a half feet in length which had been made fast by the tail to a billet of wood by a fathom or so of spun yarn, and turned adrift. An immense striped shark, apparently about fourteen feet in length, which had been cruizing about the ship all the morning, sailed slowly up, and, turning slightly on one side, attempted to seize the apparently help- less fish, but the sucker, with great dexterity, made himself fast ina moment to the shark’s back—off darted the monster at full speed,—the sucker holding on fast as a limpet to a rock, and the billet towing astern. He then rolled over and over, tumbling about, when, wearied with his efforts, he laid quiet for a little. Seeing the float, the shark got it into his mouth, and disengaging the sucker by the tug on the line, made a bolt at the fish; but his puny antagonist was again too quick, and fixing himself close behind the dorsal fin, defied the efforts of the shark to disengage him, although he rolled over and over, lashing the water with his tail until it Digitized by Microsoft® THE CALVADOS GROUP. 239 foamed all around. What the final result was, we could not clearly make out. Many water snakes were seen here, swimming about on the surface; and one of two chasing each other and playing about the ship was shot by Captain Stanley from his cabin window, and brought on board. It appeared to be of the genus Hypotrophis, and measured 37% inches in length; it had a pair of minute poison fangs on each side of the upper jaw ; the colour was a dirty greenish with numerous pale narrow bands. July 16th.—The pinnace having returned yester- day and reported a clear passage for the ship to the westward close in-shore, we got under weigh and returned on the same line by which we had come out, anchoring for the night in 19 fathoms water, under Observation Reef II. Next day we rounded Brierly Island from the eastward, passed between it and Joannet Island, and after running a few miles further to the westward, anchored in 80 fathoms— 15 miles W.N.W. from Brierly Island, and two miles from the nearest of the Calvados Group. In passing Brierly Island the place appeared to be deserted. We saw a single canoe hauled up on the beach, but no natives. On July 18th, after standing to the westward 32 miles, we hauled out south, and anchored in 22 fathoms, about eight miles from the nearest of the Calvados. We remained at this anchorage for the next three days. One day we were visited by a Digitized by Microsoft® 240 INHABITANTS OF THE CALVADOS GROUP. canoe from a neighbouring island, and on the follow- ing morning two more canoes came off. The people in one canoe kept at a safe distance, but those in the other came alongside, and after: exhausting their stock of yams and other articles of barter, went off to their more cautious companions, and speedily returned to us with a fresh supply. The canoe was an old patched-up affair, and while one of the natives was standing up with a foot on each gunwale, a previous fracture in the bow, united only by pitch, gave way, and a piece of the side, four feet long, came out, allowing the water to rush in. The canoe would speedily have been swamped, had not the author of the mischief held on the piece in his hand, while some of the others bailed away as rapidly as possible, and the remainder paddled off with despe- ration, shouting loudly to the people in the second canoe for help. But their friends seemed as much frightened as themselves, not knowing the nature of the accident, and probably supposing that we had been roughly treating their companions ;—they made sail for the shore, and did not stop until they had got half a mile away from the ship, when they waited until the damaged canoe came up in a sinking state, bailed her out, and after taking some people out of her, both made off, under sail, and we saw no more of them. But for this accident I would probably have got a few words of their language to compare with those obtained at Brierly Island. Our visitors were pro- Digitized by Microsoft® THE LOUISIADE ARCHIPELAGO. 941 fusely decorated with the red, feathery, leafy shoots of an Amaranthus, which they wore fastened in bunches about the ankles, waist, elbows, and in the hair. In other respects, I saw nothing among them different from what has already been described at Coral Haven. From this anchorage we enjoyed an extensive view of the south-eastern portion of the Louisiade Archipelago. On the extreme right is the large South-east Island, with its sharply undulating out- line, and Mount Rattlesnake clearly visible, although distant 45 miles. Next, after a gap partially filled up by Pig Island, Joannet Island succeeds, 103 miles in length, not so high as South-east Island but resembling it in dimness of outline,—its highest point, Mount Asp, is 1104 feet in height. Next come the Calvados, of various aspect and size, some with the undulating outline of the larger islands, others rising more or less abruptly to the height of from four to upwards of nine hundred feet. They constitute a numerous group,—upwards of 40—some of which, however, are mere rocks, are delineated upon the Rattlesnake’s chart, and there are others to the northward. Behind them, in two of the intervals, the large and distant island of St. Aignan (so named after one of D’Entrecasteaux’s lieutenants) fills up the back ground, falling low at its eastern extreme, but the western half high and mountainous, with an elevation of 3279 feet. Further to the westward the last of the Calvados in this view was VOL I. R Digitized by Microsoft® 249 DUCHATEAU ISLANDS. seen to form a remarkable peak, 518 feet in height, to which the name of Eddystone was applied; and still further to the left Ile Real, of D’Urville’s chart, shoots up to the height of 554 feet, as a solitary rocky island with rugged outline and an abruptly peaked summit. . July 23rd.—Yesterday we were prevented from reaching our intended anchorage at the Duchateau Isles by a strong easterly tide, the wind at the same time being too light to allow us to stem it. To-day the ship was moved closer in, and moored in a convenient berth in 18 fathoms, half a mile north from the middle island. We remained here for eleven days, thus affording good opportunities for examining the group. The Duchateau Isles are three low, wooded, coral islets, the largest of which is only three-fourths of a mile in length. The two eastern islands are connected by a reef, partly dry at low water, and separated by a narrow passage from the smaller reef, sur- rounding the western island. The southern, or wind- ward margin of these reefs, presents a similarity to the barrier class by rising up suddenly from an unknown depth, with constant and very heavy breakers, but the northern, and at present the leeward portion, extends only a little way, with irregular and not well defined outline, and anchor- age near it in from twelve to fifteen fathoms. The three islands agree in presenting the same physical characters. They are margined by a beach of Digitized by Microsoft® “PLANTS AND ANIMALS. 248 white coral sand, with occasional thin beds and ledges of coral conglomerate, succeeded by a belt of tangled bushes and low trees, after which the trees become higher and the ground tolerably free from underwood, with occasional thickets of woody climbers. The cocoa-palm grows here in small numbers, usually several together, overtopping the other trees among which one of the Bombacee (silk- cotton trees) and Pisonia grandis attain the greatest dimensions, having frequently a girth of twelve or fifteen feet, with a height of sixty or seventy. A large leaved Calophyllum is the prevailing tree of the island, and among the others I may mention a Myristica and a Caryophyllum, neither of which, however, are of the species furnishing the nutmeg's and cloves of commerce. Of mammalia a large Pteropus, or fruit-eating bat, was seen once or twice, but no specimen was procured. The little Indian rat occurs abundantly on all the islands, taking to hollow logs and holes under the roots of trees for shelter. Here it is tamer than I have elsewhere seen it,—by sitting down in a shady place, and remaining quiet, I have sometimes had three or four within a few yards of me playing about, chacing each other, or turning over the dead leaves. It even climbs bushes and low trees, and gets out among the branches like a squirrel. Birds were plentiful, and our sportsmen com- mitted great havoc among the megapodii and pigeons. The former were very numerous, running abont the R 2 Digitized by Microsoft® 244 NICOBAR AND NUTMEG PIGEONS. thickets, and calling to each other like pheasants in- a preserve at home. Among the other game birds, first in size and splendour comes the Nicobar pigeon (Calenas Nicobariea). As its appearance exhibits a near approach to the gallinaceous birds, so do its habits. It lives chiefly on the ground, runs with great swiftness, and flies up into a tree when dis- turbed. A nest found here was of the rude platform construction usually found among the pigeon family ; it was built in a tree about ten feet from the ground, and contained a single white egg. The most com- mon of the family, however, is one of the nutmeg pigeons, Carpophaga Oceanica. Many of both sexes were furnished with a large, round, fleshy caruncle on the bill at the base of the forehead,—this is said to be present during the breeding season only. Its favourite place of resort during the heat of the day is among the nutmegs and other spreading shady trees where we found it difficult of detection, even when led up to the spot by its cooing. This last, may be represented by the letters poor-o0-00-00 hoor-r-r-r, the first syllable loud and startling, the remainder faint and long drawn out; on the other hand the ery of the Nicobar pigeon is merely hoo- hoo. In flavour the Oceanic pigeon far surpasses the white or Torres Strait species, the merits of which, as an article of food, we had so often fully appreciated during our last cruize. Most of them were very fat, and some even burst open in falling to the ground after having been shot. A Digitized by Microsoft® BIRDS, REPTILES, AND FISHES. 245 solitary specimen of another large pigeon—with the throat white, and the plumage with purple and green metallic reflections—was obtained, also a small dove of a new species, with pink forehead and broad cream-coloured pectoral band, which has been named by Mr. Gould Ptilonopus strophium. The only other bird which I shall mention is a very fine king- fisher (Halcyon saurophaga), with white head, neck, and lower parts, green scapulars, and blue wings and tail, previously known by a single specimen from New Guinea in the British Museum. It is a very shy bird, frequenting the margin of the island, usually seen perched on some detached or solitary branch, as if sunning itself, and darting off into the dense brush upon being approached. Small lizards were plentiful, but we met with no large ones or snakes during our rambles on the Duchateau Isles. These islands are probably much resorted to by turtle, as they were daily seen swim- ming about, and one was caught on shore during our stay by a party of natives. The variety of fishes caught at this anchorage was considerable, and fur- nished many additions to the ichthyological collec- tion, to which the paucity of other objects in zoology for some time back enabled me to bestow much attention.* Among the genera most remarkable * Besides many kinds preserved in spirits, which have not yet been examined, my collection contained stuffed specimens of about forty species of Louisiade fishes. These, I have been informed by Sir John Richardson, have nearly all been previously described from other parts of Oceania, the Indian Ocean, and the China Digitized by Microsoft® 246 SHELLS AND HERMIT CRABS. for singularity of form and brilliancy of colouring I may mention Holocentrum, five kinds of which were procured here, one brilliantly coloured with blue and silver, and the remainder more or less of a bright scarlet. The land-shells appear here to be limited to a soli- tary Helicina, found on the leaves and trunks of trees; and the trifling amount of rise and fall of tide, not exceeding three feet, prevented any search for marine species upon the reef. By dredging, how- ever, in some of the sandy channels among the coral patches, in two to three fathoms water, some small Mitre, Nasse, Subule, and other interesting shells were procured, but no zoophytes came up in the dredge, and hardly any crustacea. One can scarcely avoid taking notice of the prodigious numbers of small hermit-crabs ( Cenobita) tenanting dead uni- valve shells, and occurring from the margin of the beach as far back as the centre of the islands, where they are found even in the holes of decaying trees at some height above the ground. During our stay at this anchorage the weather was fine for the first three days, but afterwards was usually hazy, with strong breezes from between east and south-east, with squalls and occasional showers, the thermometer ranging between 72° and 85°—re- Sea. The family Sparide is that best represented in the Louisiade Archipelago so far as I could judge,—three species of Pentapus numerically more than equal all the rest, and the next commonest fish is Diacope octo-lineata. Digitized by Microsoft® NATIVES OF THE CALVADOS. 247 spectively the maximum and minimum temperature registered on board. We were frequently visited by canoes from the Calvados Islands. The parties of natives usually landed on one of the adjacent Duchateau Islands before communicating with the ship, and sometimes passed the night there before returning on the fol- lowing morning. They brought with them cocoa- nuts, yams, and various other articles to barter with ; among these were some productions of the country which I had not previously seen— Indian corn, ginger, and sugar-cane. The canoes were of the common description, with the exception of one of large size, closed at the bow and stern, with a high peak at each end, a standing mast, large oval sail, and the platform entirely covered over.* Few addi- tional observations upon the natives were made here. On one occasion I procured a few words of their language, all of which, with one doubtful exception, are similar to those formerly obtained at Brierly Island. At another time we saw squatted down in a canoe alongside, with four men in it, two female children about three years of age, quite naked, with their hair twisted into long yarn-like strands falling over the shoulder; one of the two was a plump, laughing, intelligent creature, with fine features, great black eyes, and long silky eye-lashes. At this place we had the misfortune to lose by death our carpenter, Mr. Raymond. His remains * This is the canoe figured on p. 206. Digitized by Microsoft® 248 DUPERRE ISLANDS. were interred on the largest of the islands, in a clearing made by the wood-cutters, and as an addi- tional precaution, for the purpose of concealing the grave from the keen sight of the natives, a large fire was made upon it to efface all marks of the spade. Aug. 4th.—We left our anchorage this morning for the Duperré Islands, twenty-one miles to the westward, and reached them before noon. On our way we passed in sight of the Montemont and Jomard groups, each consisting of two low, wooded. islets, similar to those which we had left. As the ship went along she raised prodigious numbers of flying fish in large scholes, closely watched by frigate-birds, boobies, and terns. The afternoon was ineffectually spent in searching for an anchorage, the pinnace and one of the cutters having been sent in-shore for that purpose. In the evening the anchor was let go after a cast of fifty fathoms, but slipped off the bank, and had to be hove up again. In company with the Bramble we passed the night in standing off and on the islands, directed by bright moonlight, and a fire on the westernmost of the group which the pinnace’s people had been sent in to make. The following day was spent in a similar manner, and with the like result. The Bramble, when ordered by signal to point out the anchorage which Lieut. Yule had found a week before, at once passed through an opening in the northern margin of the reef con- nected with the Duperré Isles, and brought up in Digitized by Microsoft® UNABLE TO FIND ANCHORAGE. 2419 the smooth and moderately deep water inside, but it was not judged safe for us to follow, so the pinnace was hoisted in-board, and the ship kept under weigh all night. Aug. 6th.— We passed out to sea to the southward by a wide and clear channel between the Duperré and Jomard Islands. The former are five in num- ber, all uninhabited, small, low, and thickly covered with trees. They extend over a space of about six miles on the northern margin of a large atoll or annular reef extending eleven miles in one direction and seven in another, with several openings leading into the interior, which forms a navigable basin afterwards called Bramble Haven. Inside the greatest depth found was twenty fathoms, with numerous small coral patches shewing themselves so clearly as easily to be avoided,—outside, the water suddenly deepens to no bottom with one hundred fathoms of line, at the distance of a mile from its edge. For several days we continued making traverses off and on the line of barrier reefs extending to the westward, obtaining negative soundings, and occa- sionally communicating by signal with the Bramble, which was meanwhile doing the in-shore part of the work. The next islet seen was Ile Lejeune of D’Ur- ville, situated in lat. 10° 11'S. and long. 151° 50’ E., eight miles to the westward of the nearest of the Duperré group, with a wide intervening passage. The sea face of the barrier now becomes continuous Digitized by Microsoft® 250 WESTERN ISLANDS OF THE LOUISIADE. for twenty-one miles further, its northern side broken into numerous openings, leading into shoal water. It is, in fact, an elongated, almost linear atoll, with islands scattered along its sheltered margin. After this, the barrier becomes broken up into a series of small reefs, with passages between, still preserving a westerly trend, until it ends in long. 150° 58’ HE. Several small, low islets are scattered along its course; of these the Sandy Isles come first, three in number, two of them mere sand- banks, and the third thinly covered with trees, apparently a kind of Pandanus. The neighbouring Ushant Island (supposed to be that named Ile Ouessant by Bougainville) is larger and densely wooded, and still further to the westward we saw the two Stuers Islands, also low, and wooded. All those islets hitherto mentioned as occurring along the line of the barrier reef are of the same character,— low, of coral formation, and generally wooded—and so are two others situated a few miles to the north- ward of the reef, and unconnected with it. These last are Kosmann Island, in lat. 11° 43’ 8. and long. 151° 33’ E., and Imbert Island, situated thirteen miles further to the westward. Aug. 11th.—To-day we came in sight of two etroups of high rocky isles, very different from the low coral islets in the line of the barrier reef, which here ceases to shew itself above water. These are the Teste and Lebrun Islands of D’Urville, the latter two in number, and of small size (the western- Digitized by Microsoft® ARRIVE IN SIGHT OF NEW GUINEA. 2651 most, in lat. 10° 58'S. and long. 150° 59’ E.), the former, a group of four, of which the largest measures two and a half miles in length, while the smallest is a remarkable pyramidal projection, to which the name of Bell Rock was given,—this last is situated in lat. 10° 572’ 8. and long. 151° 2’ E. Aug. 12th.—We saw in the distance part of the high land of New Guinea in the neighbourhood of where its south-east cape has been conjectured to be, and approached within a few miles of the Dumoulin* Islands, a group of four rocky isles, the westernmost of which is 400 feet high, and less than a mile in length; there are besides five rocks, some of con- siderable size. The Dumoulin Isles are inhabited, and appear fertile,—they are tolerably well-wooded with small trees and a sprinkling of cocoa-palms. In standing off for the night, the water suddenly shoaled from no bottom with 80 fathoms to casts of 16 and 12 fathoms, of coral, and sand and shells, and then deepened again as we went out. One is inclined to suspect that this may be a submarine extension of the barrier reef. The Bramble meanwhile had been ordered in to look for anchorage, and found it under the lee of the largest island in 25 fathoms. She remained in that neighbourhood for several days while we were beating about at sea. Several of the Dumoulin * The hydrographical engineer attached to D’Urville’s last expedition, and the constructor of most of the charts published in the Hydrographical Atlas of ‘‘ Voyage au Pole Sud, &c.” Digitized by Microsoft® 252 DUMOULIN ISLANDS. Islands proved to be inhabited, and the natives exhibited no hostile feeling towards the Bramble’s people. A specimen of the rock, taken from the shore and given me by Lieutenant Yule, is a very curious siliceous breccia; when viewed from the sea I had observed the cliffs to exhibit horizontal and vertical fissures—apparently lines of cleavage—as I had geen assumed on various occasions during our last cruize by granite and porphyry. This, at least, indicated a great approaching change in the geological structure of the New Guinea Islands, contrasted with those of the Louisiade Group which had come under our observation. Digitized by Microsoft® CHAPTER VII. BRUMER ISLANDS—CATAMARANS AND CANOES—FRIENDLY RELATIONS WITH THE NATIVES OF NEW GUINEA—ARE WELL RECEIVED AT THEIR VILLAGE—TATOOING AND DRESS OF THE WOMEN—THE HUTS DESCRIBED—LARGE CANOE FROM THE MAINLAND—TASSAI LADIES RETURN OUR VISIT—THE NATIVES DESCRIBED—THEIR WEAPONS, ORNAMENTS, FOOD, ETC—CUL DE SAC DE L’ ORANGERIE AND COMMUNICATION WITH THE NATIVES—REDSCAR BAY AND ITS INHABITANTS—LEAVE THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA AND ARRIVE AT CAPE YORK. August 17th.—WE are once more comfortably at anchor after many dreary days at sea of thick blowing weather* spent in sailing backwards and forwards, daily tantalised by the sight of land, which was approached only that we might stand off again for the night. Yesterday afternoon the Bramble was seen coming out from under the largest of the Brumer Islands, and on her making the usual signal for good anchorage, we followed * In working to the eastward (in June) Bougainville for four days had “the wind constantly blowing very fresh, at E.S.E. and S.E.” (just as we found it) “with rain; a fog so thick that,” says he, ‘‘ we were obliged to fire guns in order to keep company with the Etoile; and lastly, a very great sea, which hove us towards the shore. We could hardly keep our ground by plying, being obliged to wear, and to carry but little sail.”,—Bougainville’s Voyage round the World. Translation by Forster, p. 308. Digitized by Microsoft® 254 BRUMER ISLANDS. her in and brought up after sunset in 85 fathoms, mud, about a mile from the shore. The island under which we thus anchored, is the westernmost and largest of a group of five, the next in size being about a mile in length, moderately high and wooded, and the remaining three mere rocks. The large Brumer Island is long and nar- row, running H.N.E. and W.S.W., two miles and two-thirds in greatest width; it is situated in lat. 10° 45’ 30” 8. and long. 150° 23° E. The whole island presents a luxuriant appearance, being covered with cocoa-palms and other trees, and on the high ground several large fenced enclosures of cultivated ground—where among other plants we could distinguish the banana and sugar-cane— attested the fertility of the soil. ‘The western, and at present the leeward side of the island, as viewed from our anchorage exhibits the appearance of a broken ridge on its southern half with several eminences topped by immense detached blocks of rock, partially concealed by the trees,—to this, in the centre, succeeds a break occupied by a very low irregular cliff behind a bay with a sandy beach,— afterwards the land rises suddenly to form a hill, 665 feet in height, with a steep face to the north- west, and a gradual slope backwards,—and beyond this another hill, not so high (386 feet), but some- what similar in form, shut out our further view in that direction. The mainland of New Guinea filled the back ground with a broken outline of ridges of Digitized by Microsoft® NATIVES AND CATAMARANS. 255 wooded hills along the coast in front of a more distant and nearly continuous range of high moun- tains covered with trees up to their very summits. Next morning we were visited by a party of natives from the neighbouring island, consisting of six men in a canoe, and one on a catamaran or raft. They were perfectly unarmed and came boldly alongside with a quantity of yams and cocoa-nuts for barter; when their stock was exhausted, they returned for more, and, accompanied by others, repeated the visit several times during the day. Although there was no obvious difference between these natives and those of the southern portion of the Louisiade, yet the catamaran was quite new to us, and the canoe differed considerably from any which we had seen before. The first catamaran was only nine feet long,—it consisted of three thick planks lashed together, forming a sort of raft, which one man sitting a little behind the middle, with his legs doubled under him, managed very dexterously with his paddle. We afterwards saw others of a larger size, some of them capable of carrying a dozen people with their effects. ‘One of this description is made of three logs—rarely two or four—laid side by side, and firmly secured to each other with strips of rattan at each end, and in two or three other places. The upper surface is smoothed down flat, and the central piece projects a little way at each end which usually shews some rude carving touched up with red and Digitized by Microsoft® 256. CATAMARANS AND CANOES. white paint. As the sea washes over a catamaran during rough weather, on such an occasion a small temporary stage is sometimes erected in the centre, and on this the cargo is secured with strips of cane. The canoe of this part of New Guinea is usually about twenty-five feet in length, and carries seven or eight people. It is made of the trunk of a tree, hollowed out like a long trough, roundly pointed at each end, a foot and a half in extreme width, with the sides bulging out below and falling in at top, leaving only eight inches between the gunwales which are strengthened by a pole running along from end to end. The ends—which are alike—are carved like those of the catamaran in imitation of the head of a turtle or snake, but more elaborately. The outrigger consists of a float as long as the Digitized by Microsoft® BRUMER ISLANDERS. 257 canoe, attached by small sticks or peg's let into the wood to eight or nine supporting poles the inner ends of which rest in notches in both gunwales, and are secured there. A portion, or the whole of this framework, is carefully covered over with planks or long sticks, and occasionally a small stage is formed on the opposite side, over the centre of the canoe, projecting’ a little outwardly, with room upon it for two people to sit and paddle. The canoes of this description which we saw were not provided with any other sail than a small temporary one, made by interlacing the leaflets of the cocoa-palm, and stuck up on poles when going with the wind free. The paddles used here are similar in shape to those seen in the Louisiade Archipelago, with spear-shaped blades and slender handles, but are larger — measuring six feet in length—and of neater construction, the end of the handle being carved into some fanciful device. About sunset, and when about to leave us, one of the Brumer Islanders, standing on a large cata- maran alongside, put himself into a grotesque atti- tude, and commenced beating with his hand upon a large tin can which some one had given him, at the same time going through some of the motions of a dance. He seemed to be a most amusing vagabond, for, upon our drummer being set to work in the chains, after joing with the other natives in the first exclamations of surprise, he listened attentively for a little, and then struck up on his own extempore VOL. I. s Digitized by Microsoft® 258 NATIVES ON BOARD. drum, keeping very good time and causing roars of laughter by his strange grimaces and antics. The effect of this pantomime was heightened by the style of painting adopted by the actor whose face had been blackened with charcoal, variegated by a white streak along the eyebrows turned down at the ends, and another along the cheeks passing round the chin. Aug. 18th.—The boisterous state. of the weather did not prevent the natives from repeatedly coming off to us with various articles of barter; and we were even visited by a party of seven men from Tissot Island, who paddled up on a catamaran five or six miles to windward against a strong breeze and cur- rent. After some little persuasion, several of them were induced to come on board and were shewn round the ship, presented with various articles, and dressed out with scraps of clothing of every description. At first they shewed symptoms of uneasiness, and made frequent protestations of friendship, as if the circum- stance of our repeating them gave increased confi- dence. Their mode of salutation or expression of friendship consists in first touching the nose with the forefinger and thumb of one hand, and then pinching the skin on each side of the navel with the other, calling out at the same time, magastiga! This habit resembles on one hand that of rubbing noses, so general in Polynesia,—and on the other, the custom of pinching the navel and repeating the name for that part, practised by the islanders of Torres Strait. At length our visitors withdrew, well pleased with their Digitized by Microsoft® LAND ON THE LARGE BRUMER ISLAND. 259 reception, during which their common exclamation indicative of surprise and delight, an ad long drawn out, was in constant requisition. Aug. 19th.—A quantity of cooked yams in bas- kets and large earthen pots was brought off to-day by a party of natives, as if in acknowledgment of our civility to those whom we had invited on board yesterday. Nothing was asked for in return—a very unusual circumstance,—and that it was intended as a present was further shewn by their leaving a proportionate share on board the Bramble, and im- mediately pushing off for the Rattlesnake with the remainder, explaining that it was intended for us and could not be sold. The weather being now favourable for communi- cation with the shore, the two cutters were manned and armed for this purpose, and sent away in charge of Lieut. Simpson, and, as usual, I was one of the volunteers who joined the party. Two of the natives gladly went in one of the boats—the same two who had previously invited us on shore, as if to return our hospitality and point out the fresh water about which we had made repeated inquiries, our stock of that all-essential article being now much reduced, and the ship’s company on an allowance of six pints each per diem. We landed at a little bay near the centre of the western side of the nearest and largest of the Brumer group. Although perfectly sheltered from the wind, a heavy swell broke upon the margin of a fringing coral reef running out fifty or sixty 8 2 Digitized by Microsoft® 260 FRIENDLY RECEPTION. yards from the sandy beach and stretching across the bay. The boats were backed in from their an- chors, and, after seven of us had got on shore by watching an opportunity to jump out up to the middle in water, and cross the reef, hauled out again to await our return. Some women on the beach retired as we were © about to land, but a number of boys and a few men received us, and after a preliminary halt to see that our guns were put to rights after the ducking, we all started together by a narrow path winding up a rugged wall of basaltic rock, fifty feet in height. From the summit a steep declivity of a couple of hundred yards brought us to the village of Tassai, shaded by cocoa-nut trees, and beautifully situated on a level space close to the beach on the windward side of the island, here not more than a quarter of a mile in width. No canoes were seen here, and a heavy surf broke on the outer margin of a fringing reef. On the outskirts of the village we met the women and remainder of the people, and were received without any signs of apprehension. One of our friends immediately got hold of a drum*—a hollow cylinder of palm-wood two feet and a half in length, and four inches in diameter, one end covered over with the skin of a large lizard,— and commenced beating upon it very vigorously with the palm of the hand, singing and dancing at the * Represented in the uppermost figure on next page. Digitized by Microsoft® VILLAGE OF TASSAI. 261 same time, as if in honour of our arrival. Each of us joined in the merriment as he came up, and in a short time the whole of Tassai was in an uproar. Among the natives every one seemed pleased, bustling about, watching our motions, examining our dress, and laughing and shouting immoderately as each new object was presented to his view. Meanwhile I wandered about the village, accom- panied by some women and children, picking up at the same time materials for my vocabulary. One old dame brought me a cocoa-nut shell full of water which I returned after drinking some, but she pressed me in a very motherly way to put it into my bag, having doubtless imagined from our inquiries after water, that even a little constituted a valuable present. We had seen neither stream nor well upon the island, and besides, it is probable that the great abundance of cocoa-nuts enables them to subsist with very little water. We dis- tributed among them some iron-hoop, knives, Digitized by Microsoft® 262 PATTERNS OF TATOOING. fish-hooks, and calico, to which I added a quantity of useful seeds,* which last were eagerly sought after when their use had been explained and under- stood. The women shewed an unsual amount of curiosity, and were much pleased at the notice taken of them, for, on examining the curious tatooing of one, others immediately pressed forwards to shew me theirs, directing particular attention to the difference of patterns. This practice of tatoomg the body—or marking it with colouring matter introduced into the skin by means of punctures or incisions—is rarely exhibited by the men, and in them is usually confined to a few blue lines or stars upon the right breast ; in some instances, however, the markings consisted of a double series of large stars and dots stretching from the shoulder toward the pit of the stomach. Among the women the tatooing extends over the face, fore part of the arms, and whole front of body continued backwards a little way over the shoulders, usually, but not always, leaving the back untouched. The pattern for the body consists of series of vertical stripes less than an inch apart, connected by zigzag and * Part of a large supply procured at Hobart Town by Capt. Stanley from the Government garden there. They were placed. under my charge, and were sown wherever circumstances appeared favourable for their growth, chiefly on uninhabited islands, there seldom having been an opportunity of distributing them among the natives of the shores we visited. Digitized by Microsoft® DRESS OF THE FEMALES. 263 other markings,—that over the face is more com- plicated, and on the fore arm and wrist it is frequently so elaborate as to assume the appearance of beautiful lace-work. Unlike the men—whose only article of dress con- sists of a small breech-cloth of pandanus leaf passing between the legs, and secured before and behind to a string or other girdle round the waist—the females wear petticoats (noge) of the same leaf, divided into long grass-like shreds, reaching to the knee. That worn by the girls consists merely of single lengths made fast to a string which ties round the waist ; but the women wear a larger and thicker kind of petticoat, composed of three layers of different de- grees of fineness and lengths, forming as many “flounces,” the upper one of more finely divided stuff, neatly plaited above, over a girdle of the same tough bark (barrai) used in making their larger kinds of rope. Two or three of these petticoats are usually worn one over the other, and in cold or wet weather the outer one is untied and fastened round the neck, covering the upper part of the body like a cape or short cloak. The hair of the women is also usually but not invariably twisted up into “ thrums” like those of a mop, a style of dressing it here pecu- liar to the female sex. Many pigs were running about the village—small in size, lean and long legged, usually black, with coarse bristles—also two or three dogs, similar to those seen at Brierly Island. One young woman Digitized by Microsoft® 264 NATIVE HUTS. was seen carrying about in her arms and fondling a very young pig—an incident which afforded us as much amusement as a lady’s lap-dog, with one end of a ribbon round its neck and the other attached to a wasp-waisted damsel, would have caused among these utilitarian savages. The village covers a space of about half an acre ; it consisted of twenty-seven huts built at right angles to each other, but without any other attempt at arrangement. These huts are of various sizes—the largest thirty-five feet long, twelve wide, and twenty- five high. All are constructed on a similar plan, being raised from the ground about four feet on posts, four, five, or six in number, passing through the same circular wooden discs seen at the Louisiade Archipelago, intended, I believe, to keep out rats or other vermin. The sides and roof are continuous, and slope sharply upwards, giving to an end view the appearance of an acute triangle, while a side view exhibits a long ridge rising suddenly at each end to a point and descending by a straight line of gable. The roof is neatly and smoothly thatched with grass, and the sides are covered in with sheets of a bark-like substance, probably the base of the leaf of the cocoa-nut tree flattened out by pressure. The entrance is at one end, overhung by the gable like a curtain, with a small stage to ascend by. I did not examine the interior of the houses, being de- sirous to avoid any cause of offence by exhibiting too much prying curiosity. From the accounts of Digitized by Microsoft® UBM GOy TEMS HP TRU LOT] “WY 2ggl Uopuoy ‘sieysyqug “eu0og MRL KNLAD MAN ‘IYSSVL #0 aAOVuUwea Digitized by Microsoft® Digitized by Microsoft® RETURN TO THE. BOATS. 265 others of the party it appears that there is a second partial floor above the principal one ; they saw large bundles of spears stowed along the sides of the hut which they looked into, and some human skulls sus- pended near the entrance.* After a very short stay of a quarter of an hour only we returned by the path formerly taken, accom- panied by about fifty men, women, and children, and went on board the boats. During our visit we had met with the most friendly reception ; no weapon of any kind was seen in the hands of the natives who at the same time probably thought us perfectly unarmed, as they at first supposed our guns to be instruments for carrying water in, and we had no opportunity of shewing the effects of fire-arms with- out involving the risk of causing a tumult. The anchor of one of the boats having caught the coral, some delay was caused, during which an old man from the beach swam off to her, as if he perfectly understood what had happened, and, after diving several times, cleared the anchor, for which he was rewarded with an axe. His skill in diving was re- markable,—he went down feet foremost, apparently without an effort, and after remaining below about half a minute, came up shewing no signs of exhaus- * These huts resemble in form some found on the Duke of York and Bowditch Islands, in the western part of the Pacific, 300 miles to the northward of the Samoan group.—See Narrative of the United States’ Exploring Expedition, vol. v. p. 7; also plate opposite p. 3. ‘ Digitized by Microsoft® 266 AGAIN VISIT THE ISLAND. tion. But all these natives appeared to feel as much confidence afloat as on shore; and we had frequent opportunities of observing their fearlessness of the water, and dexterity in swimming and diving when alongside the ship. Aug. 20th—It being considered probable that the natives might be induced to part with some of their pig's, a party was sent on shore, to endeavour to procure some by barter. On landing, which was effected with much less difficulty than yesterday (for it was now high water, enabling the boats to oo over the reef although heavy rollers were coming in), we found that most of the men were absent, and the few remaining, although made to understand what we wanted, did not appear to like our paying a visit to their village, as if suspicious of our inten- tions towards the women, a circumstance which Europeans must always be on their guard against in dealing with savage tribes. Our stay therefore was very short—not exceeding five minutes,—and on the way back, besides picking up a few scraps for my vocabulary from a number of women and children in company, I procured a very fine white Helix from the branch of a bread-fruit tree, and had a brief opportunity of examining the rock of the island. This is of volcanic origin, and consists of a stratified earthy tufa and volcanic conglomerate, hollowed out below by the sea, succeeded by a harder vesicular rock above which one of the forms of lava has been poured out. Digitized by Microsoft® LARGE CANOE. 267 On our return to the beach we found that scarcely any bartering had gone on, and that the exhibition of a number of axes and knives, had been attended with the bad effect of exciting the cupidity of the natives. Soon afterwards a canoe with people from the mainland arrived, and as anything but good feeling appeared to subsist, and we had failed in our object of getting the pigs, we left for the ship—and this was our last communication with the shore during our stay at this anchorage. Aug. 22nd.—The most interesting occurrence of the day was the arrival from the main of a very large canoe, with twenty-six people on board.* When close to she shortened sail and attempted to paddle up, but bemg too unwieldy to stem the cur- rent, the end of a rope from the ship was carried out to her and she hauled up under our stern and made fast there. Besides the ordinary paddles we observed at each end two others of large size—pro- bably used for steering with, pulled as oars, with cane gromets on the gunwale. We had not before seen so fine a sample of Papuans; several were elderly men of fine figure and commanding appear- ance. One man among them who sat alone upon a small raised stage over the platform appeared to exercise a considerable degree of authority over the rest ; the only instance yet seen by us, either here or at the Louisiade, of any one assuming: the functions * Represented in the frontispiece. Digitized by Microsoft® 268 DESCRIPTION OF CANOE. of a chief. He called a small canoe alongside, and getting under the mizen chains attempted to climb up at once, and appeared surprised that the privilege of coming on board denied to the other natives was not immediately extended to him. He was, how- ever, accidentally allowed to come up the side and remain on deck for a short time. He was a tall slender man, of about forty years of age, with sharp Jewish features,—his face and chest were painted black, and he wore a crest of cassowary feathers across his head. This large canoe measured about forty feet in leneth, and was constructed of a hollowed out tree raised upon with large planks forming a long coflin- like box, closed with high end boards elegantly carved and painted. ‘Two rows of carved fishes ran along the sides, and both ends were peaked, the bow rising higher than the stern, and, like it, but more profusely, decorated with carving painted red and white, streamers of palm-leaf, egge-cowries, and plumes of cassowary feathers. The outrigger frame work was completely covered over, forming a large platform above the centre of which a small stage rested on a strong projecting beam the outer end of which was carved into the figure of a bird, while the inner reached to the centre of the body of the canoe, and served to support the mast. The planks forming the sides were strongly supported by knees where each of the ten or twelve outrigger poles passes through one side and rests against the other, Digitized by Microsoft® NUMEROUS VISITORS TO THE SHIP. 269 and some loose bottom boards form a partial shifting deck. The mast is supported above by two stays fore and aft, and below steps into a massive bent timber crossing the centre of the canoe, resting on the bottom, and is secured above to the inner end of the long cross beam by strong lashings, and some large wedges between it and one side. The sail is of great size, being as long as the platform, but both im construction and mode of management is pre- cisely similar to that formerly described with refer- ence to a canoe seen at Coral Haven, supposed to have come from Piron’s Island. A few days ago we saw another canoe closely resembling the above mentioned, but much smaller and carrying only eleven people. It exhibited, however, one peculiarity in the great breadth of beam amidships—amounting to four feet—which gave it much room for stowage and additional buoyancy. Of late the number of natives daily coming off to the ship has rapidly increased, so as now to amount to upwards of 100 in about 15 canoes and cata- marans. Those from Tissot Island and the main- land usually arrive in the forenoon, and, after an hour’s stay, leave us for the northern village on the nearest Brumer Island, where they spend the the night and return the next morning with a fair wind. The noise and scrambling alongside when bartering is going on baffles all description,— besides the usual talking and shouting, they have a Digitized by Microsoft® 270 MODE OF BARTERING. singular habit of directing attention to their wares by a loud, sharp ss, ss, a kind of hissmg sound, equivalent to “look at this.” In their bargaining the natives have generally been very honest, far more so than our own people whom I have fre- quently seen cheating them by passing off scraps of thin worthless iron, and even tin and copper, for pieces of hoop, the imposition not being found out until the property has changed hands. As at the Louisiade iron hoop is the article most prized by the natives, and is valued according to its width and thickness as a substitute for the stone-heads of their axes. They also shewed great eagerness to obtain our hatchets and fish-hooks, but attached little value to calico, although a gaudy pattern, or bright colour, especially red, was sure to arrest attention; but in such matters they are very capricious. Hvyen glass bottles were prized, probably as a substitute for obsidian or volcanic glass, portions of which I saw among them, used in shaving, as was explained to me, and pro- bably also for carving in wood. Aug. 25th.—Yesterday and to-day, in addition to upwards of a hundred natives alongside bartering, we were honoured with visits from several parties of the Tassai ladies, in whose favour the prohibition to come on board was repealed for the time. The young women were got up with greater attention to dress and finery than when seen on shore, and some had their face blackened as if to heighten their attractions. The outer petticoat, worn on gala days such as this, Digitized by Microsoft® NATIVE LADIES ON BOARD. P71 ‘differs from the common sort in being much finer in texture and workmanship, besides being dyed red and green, with intermediate bands of straw colour and broad white stripes of palm-leaf. It is made of long bunches of very light and soft shreds, like fine twisted grass, apparently the prepared leaf of a calamus or rattan. None of the women that I saw possessed even a moderate share of beauty (according to our notions) although a few had a pleasing expression and others a very graceful figure, but, on the other hand, many of the boys and young men were strikingly handsome. We had no means of forming a judg- ment regarding the condition of the women in a social state, but they appeared to be treated by the men as equals and to exercise considerable influence over them. On all occasions they were the loudest talkers, and seemed to act from a perfect right to have every thing their own way. It is worthy of mention, that, even in their own village, and on all other occasions where we had an opportunity of observing them, they acted with perfect propriety, and although some indecent allusions were now and then made by the men, this was never done in the presence of the women. Of their marriages we could find out nothing,—one man appeared to have two wives, but even this was doubtful. The circum- stance of children being daily brought off by their fathers to look at the ship, and the strange things there, indicated a considerable degree of parental affection. Digitized by Microsoft® 272 NATIVE DANCES. Returning to our visitors :—the fiddle, fife, and drum were put in requisition, and a dance got up to amuse them. The women could not be persuaded to join, but two of the men treated us to one of their own dances, each having been previously furnished ‘with a native drum or baiatti. They advanced and retreated together by sudden jerks, beating to quick or slow time as required, and chaunting an accom- panying song, the cadence rising and falling accord- ing to the action. The attitude was a singular one— the back straight, chin protruded, knees bent in a crouching position, and the arms advanced; on another occasion, one of the same men exhibited himself before us in a war dance. In one hand he held a large wooden shield, nearly three feet in length and rather more than one in width, and in the other a formidable looking weapon two feet in length—a portion of the snout of a saw-fish with long sharp teeth projecting on each side. Placing himself in a crouching attitude, with one hand covered by the shield, and holding his weapon in a position to strike, he advanced rapidly in a succession of short bounds, striking the inner side of the shield with his left knee at each jerk, causing the large cowries hung round his waist and ankles to rattle violently. At the same time with fierce gestures he loudly chaunted a song of defiance. The remainder of the panto- mime was expressive of attack and defence, and exultation after victory. But a still more curious dance was one performed a few nights ago by a party Digitized by Microsoft® ONE REMAINS ON BOARD. 273 of natives which had left the ship after sunset and landed abreast of the anchorage. On seeing a number of lights along the beach, we at first thought they proceeded from a fishing party, but on looking through a night-glass, the group was seen to con- sist of above a dozen people, each carrying a blazing torch, and going through the movements of a dance. At one time they extended rapidly into line, at another closed, dividing mto two parties, advancing and retreating, crossing and re-crossing, and mixing up with each other. This continued for half an hour, and having apparently been got up for our amuse- ment, a rocket was sent up for their’s, and a blue- light burned, but the dancing had ceased, and the lights disappeared. In the evening when the natives were leaving for the shore, one of them volunteered to remain on board on the understanding that some of us should accompany him to Tassai, where, he explained, there would be plenty of dancing and eating, enumerating pigs, dogs, yams, and cocoa-nuts, as the component parts of the feast. He was taken down to the wardroom, and shortly underwent a complete meta- morphosis, effected by means of a regatta shirt of gaudy pattern, red neckcloth, flannel trousers, a faded drab “Taglioni” of fashionable cut buttoned up to the throat, and an old black hat stuck on one side of his woolly head. Every now and then he renewed his invitation to go on shore, but was satisfied when given to understand that our visit VOL. I. . ¥ Digitized by Microsoft® 274 NATIVE SONG. must be deferred till the morrow. Hewasa merry, active, good-humoured fellow, and gave us a number of songs, one of which I wrote down. Although unfortunately I cannot give an accompanying translation, yet this song exhibits the remarkable softness of the language from the great number of vowels. Ama watuiya boyama Manyure gerri gege udaeno Dagi ginoa dagi gino ama Watu yebbo. Manyure gerri gege idaeno Dagi egino da’ gino ama Watu yebbo—watu yebbo. Most of them—perhaps all—were extempore, as on turning his attention to the moon, he struck up a song in which the name of that body was fre- quently mentioned. He was treated to an exhibition of the magic lantern in the cabin by Capt. Stanley, and a rocket was sent up to his great astonishment and admiration, which he found words to express in “Raina” (fire) “kaiwa, oh! dim dim!” Aug. 26th.— Our guest became very uneasy when he saw no canoes from the island coming off, and no symptoms of lowering a boat to land him. His invitation to the shore and pantomime of killing a pig were repeated time after time, and he became very despondent. Two canoes from the mainland came alongside, and he got into one which shoved off, but quickly returned and put him on board, as they were not going to the island. The poor fellow Digitized by Microsoft® PECULIARITIES OF THE PAPUANS. 275 at last appeared so miserable, being actually in tears, that a boat was sent to put him on shore abreast of the ship, and, when he landed, two young women and a child came running up to meet him. A number of natives on the sandy beach were anxi- ously watching the boat, as if the long detention of the man on board the ship had made them suspicious of our treatment of him. Without entering into details of uninteresting daily occurrences, I may here give a general ac- count of such circumstances reyarding the natives as have not previously been alluded to or insuffi- ciently described. It would be difficult to state the peculiarities of this portion of the Papuan* Race (including also the inhabitants of the Louisiade) for even the features exhibit nearly as many differences as exist among a miscellaneous collection of indi- viduals of any European nation. They appear to me to be resolvable into several indistinct types, with intermediate gradations; thus occasionally we met with strongly marked Negro characteristics, but still more frequently with the Jewish cast of features, while every now and then a face presented itself which struck me as being perfectly Malayan. In general the head is narrow in front, and wide and * As the term Papuan when applied to a Race of Mankind is not strictly correct, I may here mention that whenever used in this work, it includes merely the woolly or frizzled haired inhabitants of the Louisiade, S.E. coast of New Guinea, and the islands of Torres Strait. 1r 2 Digitized by Microsoft® 276 COLOUR OF THE HAIR AND SKIN. very high behind, the face broad from the great projection and height of the cheek bones and de- pression at the temples; the chin narrow in front, slightly receding, with prominent angles to the jaw ; the nose more or less flattened and widened at the wing's, with dilated nostrils, a broad, slightly arched and gradually rounded bridge, pulled down at the tip by the use of the nose-stick; and the mouth rather wide, with thickened lips, and incisors flat- tened on top as if ground down. Although the hair of the head is almost invariably woolly, and, if not cropped close, or shaved, frizzled out into a mop, instances were met with in which it had no woolly tendency, but was either in short curls, or long and soft without conveying any harsh feeling to the touch. In colour too it varied, although usually black, and when long, pale or reddish at the tips ;* yet some people of both sexes were observed having it naturally of a bright red colour, but still woolly. The beard and moustache, when present, which is seldom the case, are always scanty, and there is very little scattered hair upon the body. The colour of the skin varies from a light to a dark copper colour, the former being the prevailing hue; individuals of a light yellowish brown hue are often met with, but this colour of the skin is not accompanied by distinctive features. * Probably artificially produced, as is known to be effected by means of lime water, by the inhabitants of the north-west coast of New Guinea. Digitized by Microsoft® STATURE AND STRENGTH. Q77 The average stature of these Papuans is less than our own, being only about five feet four inches ; this did not appear to be the case when seen along- side, but on board the ship, and especially when clothed, the difference became very apparent. Al- though well made, and far surpassing us in agility, they were our inferiors in muscular power. Their strength was tested by means of a deep-sea lead weighing twenty-two pounds which none of the natives could hold out at arm’s length, although most of us who tried it experienced no difficulty in sustaining the weight for a few seconds. Among the people who came alongside the ship one day we noticed two cases of that kind of elephantiasis called “ Barbadoes Leg,” in one com- bined with enormous distention of the scrotum, which was larger than a man’s head, and studded with warts. One of these unfortunate objects had both legs much swollen, especially about the ankle, where the skin was almost obliterated by large scab- like warts, the other, besides the diseased leg, had a huge tumour on the inner side of the right thigh. The weapons procured at this place consist of spears, clubs, a wooden sword, and a shield. Of the first there are several kinds, all larger and heavier than those obtained at the Louisiade, but, like them, made of hard, heavy, well polished cocoa- nut wood. The spears vary in length from nine to eleven feet, with a diameter, where thickest, of rather more than an inch. From their great weight Digitized by Microsoft® 278 WEAPONS. it would scarcely be possible to throw them with effect to a greater distance than from fifteen to twenty yards, and, judging from the signs and gestures of the natives on various occasions when explaining their mode of warfare, they are also used for charging and thrusting with, the neighbourhood of the armpit being the part aimed at as most vulnerable. The spear in most common use tapers to a point at each end, more suddenly in front and very gra- dually behind where it usually terminates in a small knob with two or three ornamental rings. Some- times a gromet, or ring of cordage, is worked upon the spear near one end, to prevent the hand slipping when making a thrust. There are many other kinds of spears variously barbed on one or both sides near the head. The fishing spear is usually headed by a bundle of about four or six slender, sharp pointed pieces of wood, two feet in length, sometimes barbed at the point. We obtained three clubs here—the only ones seen—one, closely resembling the stone-headed club of Darnley Island, consists of a wooden shaft, four feet long, sharp pointed at one end and at the other passing through a hole in the centre of a sharp-edged circular disk of quartz, shaped like a quoit, four inches in diameter; the second is twenty-seven inches in length, cut out of a heavy piece of wood, leaving a slender handle and cylindrical head, three and a half inches long, studded with knobs; the Digitized by Microsoft® 279 WEAPONS. Spears, Shield, Basket, and Comb. New Guinea. Digitized by Microsoft® Ee SS SSS | ae) — — ) nll oe || a ||| = = DO — — = 280 ORNAMENTS. remaining one, a less formidable weapon than the others, is flat on both sides, with a serrated edge, and measures twenty-two inches in length and three in width. The ornaments worn on this part of the coast are in general so precisely similar to those of the Louis- iade, already described, that a brief allusion to them is sufficient. In both places we saw the same nose- sticks, combs stuck in the hair, flat circular earrings, woven and shell armlets, round ornaments made of melon shell, necklaces of dog’s teeth and black seeds, and white cowries strung round the legs, arms, and neck. I observed here none of the human jawbones worn as bracelets so frequently met with in the Louisiade, nor did painting the body appear to be carried to the same extent, although the mode of doing so was the same. Here too we sometimes saw the hair collected and twisted behind into a single or double queue, and procured a neatly con- structed bushy wig of frizzled hair. A girdle of split rattan wound about a dozen times round the waist is in common use here, but I do not recollect having seen it in the Louisiade. Among other articles of native manufacture I may mention large baked earthen pots* used in cooking’, also very neatly made round flat-bottomed baskets in sets of four, partially fitting into each other, with a woven belt to suspend them from the * Similar to that figured on p. 261. Digitized by Microsoft® MANUFACTURES. 281 shoulders by,—in these various small articles are carried, among them the spatula and calabash, with lime to be used in betel chewing—and a netted bag, a foot and a half in width and one in depth. Their rope is beautifully made of the long tough stringy bark of a tree, strongly twisted and laid up in three strands, and for finer lines and twine a kind of flax, resembling the New Zealand, but still more the Manila sort, is used here. The finest sample of the prepared material which I saw measured eleven feet in length, and consisted of a bundle of rather fine white fibres. Although very much coarser than our hemp, it is of nearly uniform size, and possesses considerable strength, but breaks easily when knotted. We saw it in considerable quantity, but had no means of ascertaining the plant from which it is derived, probably, however, a banana of some kind. We occasionally saw pieces of a white soft papery cloth, apparently similar to the tapa of Polynesia, and like it made of the inner bark of some small tree, but it did not appear to be applied to much use. In the Louisiade we had not observed the betel pepper, but here it was found in common use—both the leaf and green fruit, especially the latter, being added to the lime and areca-nut. Still betel chew- ing, although a very general habit, is by no means universally practised, for many elderly people re- tained the original whiteness of the teeth. By the males it appears to be adopted only after attaining Digitized by Microsoft® 282 MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS. the state of manhood, and among’ the females is almost entirely confined to the old women. The fondness of these people for flowers and strong-scented plants is remarkable,—they wear them in their hair, thrust under the armlets and girdle, or as garlands round the neck. Among the chief favourites may be mentioned an amaranth with purple leaves, giving out a very rich colour upon pressure being applied, and a species of mint- like herb which they dry in bunches, and carry about with them. In addition to the drum formerly mentioned, and large shells— Cassis or Triton—with a hole at one end, used as trumpets, we saw a small Pandean pipe made of portions of reed of different lengths, and a tube of bamboo, two feet long, which gives out a sound like a horn when blown into. The staple article of food is the yam, which is produced here in great abundance, of large size, and excellent quality. Several other tubers, or roots, are eaten. Among them is that of aspecies of Calladium, which requires much cooking: to destroy its acridity. The cocoa-nut tree grows everywhere. In the canoes we saw abundance of sugar-cane in pieces two feet in length and an inch in thickness, and the natives brought off to us bananas, bread- fruit, mangos, and prepared arrow-root. To a cer- Digitized by Microsoft® FOOD. 283 tain extent also the natives feed upon fish, judging from the nets and fishing-spears seen among them. The former, although frequently thirty or forty feet in length, did not exceed eighteen inches in depth,— they have small meshes, thin triangular wooden floats, and shells at the bottom as sinkers. Although we saw many pigs onshore in the village, only one was obtained by barter, in this one a spear wound behind the shoulder was made alongside the ship before handing it on board, but for what purpose we could not understand, as it did not kill the animal. Dogs also I have reason to believe are occasionally eaten, but whether cannibalism is ever practised by these people is a question which we have not the means of settling, as no evidence bearing upon the point could be obtained. August 29th.—During our stay of thirteen days at this anchorage the wind has usually been strong from East to E.S. E., with dull, gloomy, squally weather, and occasionally showers of drizzling rain. To-day, however, the rain was so heavy that we caught seven tons in the awning. To this haziness, which by obscuring distant objects was unfavourable for surveying purposes, we owed our long detention here. As our intercourse with the shore was limited to the two brief visits formerly mentioned, I made no addition to the collection, with the exception of a solitary Helix, nor was anything of zoological interest brought off by the natives, except a string of heads of a species of hornbill (Buceros plicatus), and fea- Digitized by Microsoft® 284 LEAVE THE BRUMER ISLANDS. thers of a cassowary, a scarlet lory, and a few other birds. No fish were caught at the anchorage, pro- bably on account of the nature of the bottom—a tenacious, greenish, muddy clay—and the strength of the current which prevented our lines from resting on the bottom. Observations made with the lead alongside at the time of high and low water indicated by the shore shewed in thirteen days’ observations a rise and fall of only from two to six feet. Neither during the ebb nor the flood tide was there any appreciable difference in the direction of the current at our anchorage which set constantly to the west- ward between West and W.S. W., at the rate of from one to one-and-a-half knots an hour. This cur- rent may reasonably be conjectured to come from the northward and sweep round the 8. E. cape of New Guinea (distant from this anchorage about fifty miles), thus making it appear probable that a clear passage exists between the S. E. extreme of New Guinea and the western termination of the Louisiade Archipelago: indeed so far as Lieut. Yule’s obser- vations were carried in this direction no reefs were seen to impede his progress to the north-east. Sept. 4th.—Five days ago we sailed from the Brumer Islands, and continued running lines of sounding's off and on the coast, the in-shore details being left as usual to the Bramble. On one occa- sion, while within a few miles of the shore, the water suddenly shoaled to twelve, ten, and six fathoms, rock or coral, although half an hour before no Digitized by Microsoft® ANCHOR OFF DUFAURE ISLAND. 285 bottom could be got with a hundred fathoms of line, —apparently an indication of a submarine barrier, more or less continuous, running at a variable distance from the shore, and following the general trend of the coast. The appearance of the land seen lately is very fine: the coast being backed by ranges of high mountains presenting a very diversified out- line; one of them, named upon the chart Cloudy Mount, attains an elevation of 4477 feet. Yester- day and to-day great numbers of a storm petrel (Thalassidroma leucogastra) have been following in our wake. This afternoon, while off the eastern end of the bay called by Bougainville the “Cul de sac de VOrangerie,” the Bramble was signalled to lead in towards the land off which we anchored at 9 p.m. in 30 fathoms. From our anchorage we next morning saw on Dufaure Island, from which we were distant about three miles, a village in a grove of cocoa-nut trees behind a sandy beach, and the natives came off in considerable numbers bringing large quantities of cocoa-nuts and bread-fruit ;* they did not appear however to have any yams. Two or three small pigs, of the same description as that hitherto seen (Sus Papuensis), were procured ; and we obtained two fine live opossums, of a rare and singular kind (Cuscus maculatus), for an axe a-piece. They ap- * This was of smaller size than it attains in the South Sea Islands; we cooked it in various ways but failed to make it palatable. Digitized by Microsoft® 286 OBTAIN TWO OPOSSUMS. peared to be quiet gentle animals, until much irri- tated, when they bite hard. We fed them at first on ripe cocoa-nuts, of which they were very fond ; but latterly they became accustomed to pea-soup. They spent most of the day in sleep in a corner of the hen-coop where they were kept, each on its haunches with the tail coiled up in front, the body arched, and the head covered by the fore paws and doubled down between the thighs; at night, how- ever, they were more active and restless, their large reddish yellow eyes being then obscured by the dilated pupil, which during the day appears as a narrow vertical line. One was frequently taken on deck towards evening and allowed to climb about the rigging, moving very slowly, and endeavouring to get up as high as possible. The natives resemble those seen at Brumer islands (from which we were distant about thirty-six miles) so closely that I saw no points regarding them deserving of separate notice, and their language is the same, judging from a small vocabulary of about seventy words. The only manufactured article new Digitized by Microsoft® CUL DE SAC DE L’ORANGERIE. 287 to us was a small wooden pillow* about a foot long and six inches high, with a slight concavity above to receive the neck of the person using it. Both women and children came off with the men to traffic with us and look at the ship, but none could be tempted to come on board, although they paddled up alongside without the slightest hesita- tion. We were frequently solicited to accompany them on shore, but no one was allowed to leave the ship. The northern shores of the Cul de Sac are low and wooded, forming an extensive tract of level land stretching backwards towards the mountains, with a large opening at its eastern end, which is probably the mouth of a great river. The Bramble was sent to examine this bay, but the shoalness of the water, and the unfavourable nature of the weather pre- vented the completion of this work. During her absence a large canoe was seen in the bay, differing from all those hitherto observed in having a trian- gular or latteen sail set with the apex downwards, thus resembling those in use on the north coast of New Guinea, among some of the Malay Islands, and those of the Viti Archipelago. The weather, since leaving Brumer Islands, has usually been gloomy, with frequent rain, occasionally very heavy, and a close muggy feeling in the atmos- phere as if one were living in a vapour bath; the * Wooden pillows are also in use in some of the islands of Polynesia and in New Caledonia. Digitized by Microsoft® 288 APPEARANCE OF THE COAST. temperature on board ship ranged between 72° and 83°. During our five days’ stay off Dufaure Island we were daily employed in catching rain water for ship’s use, being on reduced allowance of that necessary article. The wind throughout has been steady at S.E., occasionally varying a point or two towards east. Sept. 18th.—For the last three days the coast has appeared as a strip of low land, backed by mountain ranges of moderate elevation.* We observed several openings, apparently creeks or mouths of rivers, and saw much smoke and some canoes, but our dis- tance from the shore was too great to allow of com- munication. In the evening we stood off to seaward, and during the night, while trying to avoid it, pro- bably passed over the assigned position of a reef laid down on one of the charts as having been seen in 1804, but without being able to confirm or disprove its existence. * From the haze involving distant objects—less frequent (as we afterwards had reason to believe) during the westerly monsoon— the much higher Owen Stanley Range was not then visible ; it had also, probably from the same cause, quite escaped the notice of D’Urville who passed this portion of the coast at the distance of about eight or nine miles. + Although this reef does not exist in the position assigned to it, I may state that its presence upon the charts rests upon the authority of Coutance; Freycinet, rejecting Coutance’s longitude of Cape Deliverance and adopting that of D’Entrecasteaux, has laid down the reef in question as bearing W.S.W. from Point Hood, at a distance of twelve leagues. Another but smaller reef is stated on the same authority to exist five leagues S.E. } E. from Cape Rodney. Digitized by Microsoft® PASSAGE ALONG THE COAST. 289 Sept. 19th.— Passed Mount Astrolabe, a series of long flat-topped ridges parallel with the coast, but were unable clearly to identify the Cape Passy of D’Urville where his running survey terminated, and where the Astrolabe and Zelée bore away to the westward for Torres Strait. Sept. 20th.—During the forenoon the Bramble was observed to windward, and in the afternoon she was sent in-shore to look for anchorage. Following her we stood in towards a remarkable headland (365 feet high) which afterwards received the name of Redscar Head, from the reddish colour of its cliffs. At the distance of six and a half miles from the shore we struck soundings in twenty-seven fathoms, and soon afterwards crossed a narrow ridge of coral, with only five fathoms over it; after this the bot- tom consisted of tenacious mud, and we carried in from twenty-two to eighteen fathoms, in the last of which we anchored two miles and two-thirds off the point. When Lieut. Yule came on board we heard that since we left the Bramble near Dufaure Island to do the in-shore work, he had on one occasion an affray with the natives in the neighbourhood of the Toulon Islands. When the Bramble was nearly becalmed close in-shore, several canoes with about thirty people, including several women and children, came off to barter. A small pig* was handed up * As has often happened the bone of contention did not rest with the belligerents, for the pig was eventually handed over to me VOI I U Digitized by Microsoft® 290 BRAMBLE FIRES ON THE NATIVES. into the chains, but, owing to an unavoidable occur- rence, no return was made for it, upon which the owner snatched the cap from off the head of a marine attending at the gangway. The canoe which had brought the pig then shoved off, and, on being directed by gestures to return the cap, one man stood up and poised his spear, and the others got their arms ready. Several musket shots were fired into the canoe from a distance of six or seven yards, but, regarding the effect, conflicting statements have been made. No resistance was attempted, as, after the first shot, some of the natives jumped into the water and all made off in confusion, which was further increased when a round shot was fired in the direction of a distant canoe coming out from the shore. Sept. 21st.—Took a passage in a boat sent with Lieut. Simpson to get a round of angles on one of three neighbouring islands (afterwards called Pari- wara, the native name), situated two miles and a half N.W. from Redscar Point, with which they appear formerly to have been continuous, and, like it, are remarkable for their red and white cliffs. The largest, that on which we landed, is only three- fourths of a mile in length. In shape it is somewhat triangular: one side is formed by a rounded ridge, the highest point of which is 284 feet in height, with irregular cliffs along the sea margin; the opposite and prepared as a specimen, now in the British Museum, the only Sus Papuensis in England at the present time. Digitized by Microsoft® PARIWARA ISLAND. 291 angle is occupied by a rounded hill projecting as a headland with rocky cliffs ; and these two opposite portions are connected by low land forming a sandy beach on two of the sides. The island is covered with long coarse grass growing in tufts; there are also some pandanus trees of two kinds (P. spiralis and P. pedunculata), and some low brush of stunted bushy trees, their tops matted together, and indi- cating by the direction in which their branches are bent that the prevailing wind is from the south-east. Strictly speaking, there is no soil upon the island : what may, however, be considered as such consists of the disintegrated calcareous rock, on the low part mixed up with sand. This rock, acted upon by the weather, has a tendency to fall down in large masses, leaving cliffs, steep and rugged in some places and smooth in others; in colour it varies from white to red, and is usually of a light pink. Behind one of the beaches, a few feet distant from high water mark, I observed a bank twelve feet high of slightly agglutinated coral sand in parallel beds, mixed up with large depositions of weather-worn shells: Tridacna, Hippopus, Strombus, §c., all of species now living on the reef. At one end this deposit appears to have been tilted up, forming a slight ridge stretching across the low part of the island. The shores in some places are fringed with coral conglomerate composed of shells and sand, fragments of coral, and rolled pieces of rock from above. The reef surrounding the islands does not U2 Digitized by Microsoft® 292 PARIWARA ISLANDS. dry at low water, and in crossing’ it in the boat very little live coral was observed, except on the outer margin, outside of which the bottom is a tenacious mud, effervescing on the application of hydrochloric acid. I collected a few plants, among which are a yellow flowered Cleome, a purple Pongamia, Convol- vulus multivalvis, Evolvulus villosus, Guettarda speciosa, §c. The only birds seen were a white- headed eagle and an osprey, neither of which were molested although the latter frequently came within shot, and followed meas if from motives of curiosity. Almost the only insects seen were small grass- hoppers, rising in numbers at every step, and green ants which have nests in the bushes, and appear identical with those of the Louisiade and Australia. No fresh water was found here. Some recent traces of natives were met with—including two fire places where turtle and fish had been cooked on a framework of sticks over a fire,—precisely similar to one of large size, formerly seen on the Duchiteau Islands. JI saw many places where turtle egos had been dug out of the sand behind the beach, where besides were numerous burrows of a maritime crab (Ocypode cursor), which also appeared to feed upon the eggs—judging from the quantity of empty shells about the holes of those creatures. Of the two remaining islands of the group, one, less than a quarter of a mile long, is covered with Digitized by Microsoft® PARIWARA ISLANDS. 293 trees, probably a Bombax or Lrythrina,—at this time destitute of leaves,—on the other is a high bare rock with three other small detached, needle-shaped ones lying off it. The observations with the theodolite having been completed we obtained some soundings and returned to the ship. The view we had to-day from the Pariwara Islands was not so interesting as I had expected. The shores of the bay stretching to the northward of Redscar Head for many miles are low and covered with tall trees behind a strip of sandy beach. At the back of the point in the corner of the bay, we saw an opening two hundred yards wide, with tall mangroves on the northern bank, appa- rently one of the mouths of a river traversing the great extent of low wooded country behind. A very large fire two or three miles behind the beach, sending up great volumes of smoke, might have been intended for a signal, but neither canoes nor natives were seen during our absence from the ship. Sept. 24th.—A canoe with twelve young men and lads came off from the shore, and approached within two hundred yards of the ship, but although tempted by the exhibition of a large piece of red cloth, they would come no closer. Their visit was apparently prompted by mere curiosity as they had nothing to barter with. These natives closely resembled the other Papuans seen to the eastward, but were smaller in stature, and wore the hair frizzled up into a mop projecting backwards, nor had Digitized by Microsoft® 294 NATIVES COME OFF. I before seen in one canoe so many handsome faces. As a breech-cloth they wore a narrow strip of white cloth passing between the legs and secured to a string round the waist, but this was too narrow to serve as a fio-leaf. Among their ornaments we saw necklaces of small white cowries, and round flat pieces of shell two inches in diameter worn on the breast, also black, tightly fitting, woven armlets, in which they had stuck bunches of apparently the same purple odoriferous amaranth seen elsewhere, while other tufts of this plant were attached to the ankles and elbows. The canoe was nearly of the same description as those commonly seen at the Brumer and Dufaure Islands, but the outrigger float was rather shorter, having only five poles to support it instead of seven or eight, and the bow and stern, Digitized by Microsoft® CANOE DESCRIBED. 295 especially the former, much sharper and more raking. On the side opposite to the outrigger there was a small slightly projecting stage of two planks only. The paddles were six and a half feet in length, much clumsier than those seen in other parts of New Guinea, and without the carving on the handle, the blade also differed slightly in shape, being more elliptical. After paddling inshore a short distance they made sail and landed near the point. The sail resembled the common one of the Louisiade, being long, narrow, square at the ends, and stretched between two yards or masts, and in setting was merely stuck upon end and sup- ported by guys fore and aft. During our stay at this anchorage we had fine weather, with light variable winds of short duration, generally from the westward, but sometimes from the northward, and the thermometer ranged between 77° and 84°. Sept. 25th.—Weighed in the afternoon with a very light air from 8.W., and stood to the N.W., but by sunset, when we anchored in 27 fathoms mud, we had made only about eight miles. The weather was very sultry all day with the ther- mometer from 82° to 84°in the shade. In the evening we got a land breeze from about east, which lasted most of the night. Sept. 26th.—Soon after daylight we were visited by a party of natives who came from an opening in the low land at the north-east corner of the bay— Digitized by Microsoft® 296 MORE NATIVES VISIT US. apparantly the mouth of a large river. They were in three canoes carrying respectively seven, four, and three people, and paddled up alongside without hesi- tation, appearing anxious to be admitted on board, holding on by the chains and peeping into the ports in a most inquisitive manner. With the exception of two or three cocoa-nuts nothing was brought to barter with, but they readily parted with bows and arrows, of which they had a very large supply. These bows appear to be made of the hard heavy wood of the cocoa-nut tree, pointed at each end, and varying in length from five to six feet, with a greatest width of an inch and a quarter and thickness of five-eighths. The string isa strip of rattan three- eighths of an inch wide. The arrows are precisely similar to those used by the Torres Strait Islanders, consisting of a head of cocoa-nut wood, nine to eighteen inches in length, shipped into a light reed 24 to 84 feet in length, and secured by a neat cane plaiting. They are variously barbed on the edges in one or more series, or furnished with constrictions at short intervals which would cause a piece readily to break off in a wound and remain there. Some were headed with a piece of bamboo shaped like a gouge or scoop, and several other varieties were observed. This is the first occasion of our meeting with these weapons, which appear almost completely to have superseded the spear of which only a few small ones were seen in the canoes. In exchange for their bows and arrows the Digitized by Microsoft® BAMBOO KNIFE. 297 natives attached most value to articles of clothing of every description. Glass bottles were also eagerly sought after—but iron was not prized—indeed its use appeared to be unknown, nor had they any name for it. While leaning out of one of the wardroom ports, and getting words from a very intelligent native whose attention I secured by giving him various little presents from time to time, I had occasion to point to a bamboo scoop* lying in the canoe in order to get its name. The man, to my surprise, immediately bit off a narrow strip from one side, as if to sharpen the edge, and taking up a piece of stick, shewed me that this scoop was used as a knife. Not to be outdone I took one of our common knives and cut away vigorously at a piece of wood to shew the superiority of our knives over his one; he appeared suddenly to become ter- rified, talked vehemently to the others, drew their attention to me, and repeated my motions of cutting the wood, after which his canoe pushed off from the ship’s side. My friend refused to accept of the knife—as I afterwards found the natives had also done to other people when iron implements were offered them—nor would he pay any further atten- tion to my attempts to effect a reconciliation. The greatest peculiarity among these people is their mode of dressing the hair; it is usually shaved off the temples and occasionally a little way up the * Resembling that figured in Jukes’ Voyage of the Fly, vol. i. p- 277,—but smaller. Digitized by Microsoft® 298 NATIVE HAIR-DRESSING. forehead, then combed out at length, and tied mid- way with a string, leaving one part straight, and the remainder frizzled out into a mop projecting horizontally backwards. Some also had a long pigtail hanging down behind, in one case decorated with a bunch of dog’s teeth at the end. Across the forehead they wore fillets of small shells strung together over a broad white band of some leafy sub- stance. The septum of the nose was perforated, and some wore a long straight nose-stick of bone with black bands. All our visitors had their teeth darkened with the practice of betel chewing,—we saw them use the leaf of the betel pepper, the green areca nut, and lime, the last carried in a small calabash with a spatula. We had been becalmed all the morning, but before noon the sea-breeze set in from the 8.8. E., and we Digitized by Microsoft® LEAVE NEW GUINEA. 299 got under weigh, ran past S. W. Cape, and anchored in 22 fathoms mud, off a large island afterwards named in honour of Lieut. Yule. Sept. 27th.—This has proved a very uneasy anchorage under the combined influence of a strong breeze from the south-east anda heavy sea. At one, p.m., we got under weigh in company with the Bramble, and left the coast of New Guinea, running to the westward for Cape York, in order to meet the vessel with our supplies from Sydney. Next evening Bramble Cay was seen on our weather beam ; being so low and so small an object, we had nearly missed it. We hauled upon a wind immediately but could not fetch its lee, so anchored two and-a-half miles N. W. by W. from it. Great numbers of boobies and noddies came about us, but our distance from the shore was too great and our stay too short to send on shore for bird’s eggs. Sept. 29th.—With a strong south-easterly breeze we passed to the westward of Campbell and Stephens’ Islands, the Bramble leading, and anchored in the evening near Marsden Island. On Campbell Island, numbers of the natives came down to the edge of the reef, waving to us as we passed by, and inviting us to land. There were many cocoa-nut trees, and we saw a village on the north-west side of the island, beautifully situated on the shady skirts of the wood. The huts resemble those of Darnley Island, being shaped like a haycock or bee-hive, with a projecting central pole ornamented with a Digitized by Microsoft® 3800 ARRIVE AT CAPE YORK. large shell or two attached to it. Most of the huts were situated in small enclosures, and there were other portions of ground fenced in with tall bamboo paling. On the following day the Bramble* left us for Booby Island, to call at the “ post-office” there, and rejoin company at Cape York, and we reached as far as the neighbourhood of Cocoa-nut Island at noon, passing close to Arden Island, then covered with prodigious numbers of blue and white herons, small terns, curlews, and other waders. Oct. 1st.—We had a fine breeze and pleasant weather, and in the afternoon reached our former anchorage in Evans’ Bay, Cape York, and moored ship in seven fathoms. A party was immediately sent to examine the water-holes, which promised, after a little clearing out, as abundant a supply as they afforded us last year. We met some of the natives who came down to the rocks as the boat landed, and among them I saw many old acquaint- ances who joyfully greeted us. * On his return, Lieut. Yule reported that the boats of an American whaler, lost on the Alert Reef (outside the Barrier), had reached Booby Island, and the crews had been saved from starvation by the depot of provisions there. That this supply will be renewed from time to time is most likely, as the Legislative Council of New South Wales, last year, voted the sum of £50 for provisions to be left on Booby Island for the use of ship- wrecked people. Digitized by Microsoft® CHAPTER VIII. RESCUE A WHITE WOMAN FROM OAPTIVITY AMONG THE NATIVES—HER HISTORY—BRAMBLE AND BOATS COMPLETE THE SURVEY OF TORRES STRAIT—WINI AND THE MUL- GRAVE ISLANDERS—INTERCOURSE WITH THE CAPE YORK NATIVES —NEARLY QUARREL WITH THEM AT A NIGHT DANCE —WITNESS A NATIVE FIGHT—DISCOVER SOME FINE COUNTRY — INCIDENTS OF OUR STAY—MANY NEW BIRDS FOUND —RI- MARKS ON THE CLIMATE, ETC. OF CAPE YORK. On the day after our arrival at Cape York the vessel from Sydney with our supplies anchored beside us, and besides provisions and stores, we had the additional pleasure of receiving five months’ news from home. On Oct. 16th, a startling incident occurred to break the monotony of our stay. In the afternoon some of our people on shore were surprised to see a young white woman come up to claim their protec- tion from a party of natives from whom she had recently made her escape, and who, she thought, would otherwise bring her back. Of course she received every attention, and was taken on board the ship by the first boat, when she told her story, which is briefly as follows. Her name is Barbara Thomson: she was born at Aberdeen in Scotland, and along with her parents, emigrated to New South Digitized by Microsoft® 302 HISTORY OF A WHITE WOMAN, Wales. About four years and a half ago she left Moreton Bay with her husband in a small cutter (called the America), of which he was owner, for the purpose of picking up some of the oil from the wreck of a whaler, lost on the Bampton Shoal, to which place one of her late crew undertook to guide them; their ultimate intention was to go on to Port Essington. The man who acted as pilot was unable to find the wreck, and after much quarrelling on board in consequence, and the loss of two men by drowning’, and of another who was left upon a small uninhabited island, they made their way up to Torres Strait, where, during a gale of wind, their vessel struck upon a reef on the Eastern Prince of Wales Island. The two remaining men were lost in attempting to swim on shore through the surf, but the woman was afterwards rescued by a party of natives on a turtling excursion, who, when the gale subsided, swam on board, and supported her on shore between two of their number. One of these blacks, Boroto by name, took possession of the woman as his share of the plunder; she was com- pelled to live with him, but was well treated by all the men, although many of the women, jealous of the attention shewn her, for a long time evinced anything but kindness. A curious circumstance secured for her the protection of one of the principal men of the tribe a party from which had been the fortunate means of rescuing her, and which she after- wards found to be the Kowraréga, chiefly inhabiting Digitized by Microsoft® TAKEN BY THE BLACKS. 303 Maralug, or the Western Prince of Wales Island. This person, named Piaquai, acting upon the belief (universal throughout Australia and the Islands of Torres Strait so far as hitherto known) that white people are the ghosts of the aborigines, fancied that in the stranger he recognised a long-lost daughter of the name of Gi(a)om, and at once admitted her to the relationship which he thought had formerly subsisted between them; she was immediately ac- knowledged by the whole tribe as one of themselves, thus ensuring an extensive connection in relatives of all denominations. From the head-quarters of the tribe with which Gi’om thus became associated being upon an island which all vessels passing through Torres Strait from the eastward must approach within two or three miles, she had the mortification of seeing from twenty to thirty or more ships go through every summer without anchoring in the neighbourhood, so as to afford the slightest opportu- nity of making her escape. Last year she heard of our two vessels (described as two war canoes, a big and a little one) being at Cape York—only twenty miles distant—from some of the tribe who had com- municated with us and been well treated, but they would not take her over, and even watched her more narrowly than before. On our second and present visit, however, which the Cape York people imme- diately announced by smoke signals to their friends in Miralug, she was successful in persuading some of her more immediate friends to bring’ her across to Digitized by Microsoft® 304 RESCUED FROM CAPTIVITY. the main land within a short distance of where the vessels lay. The blacks were credulous enough to be- lieve that “as she had been so long with them, and had been so well treated, she did not intend to leave them,—only she felt a strong desire to see the white people once more and shake hands with them ;” adding, that she would be certain to procure some axes, knives, tobacco, and other much-prized articles. This appeal to their cupidity decided the question at once. After landing at the sandy bay on the western side of Cape York, she hurried across to Evans’ Bay, as quickly as her lameness would allow, fearful that the blacks might change their mind; and well it was that she did so, as a small party of men followed to detain her, but arrived too late. Three of these people were brought on board at her own request, and as they had been instrumental in saving: her from the wreck, they were presented with an axe a-piece, and other presents. Upon being asked by Captain Stanley whether she really preferred remaining with us to accom- panying the natives back to their island, as she would be allowed her free choice in the matter, she was so much agitated as to find difficulty in ex- pressing her thankfulness, making use of scraps of English alternately with the Kowraréga language, and then, suddenly awaking to the recollection that she was not understood, the poor creature blushed all over, and with downcast eyes, beat her forehead with her hand, as if to assist in collecting her Digitized by Microsoft® HER HISTORY. 305 scattered thoughts. At length, after a pause, she found words to say,—“ Sir, I am a Christian, and would rather go back to my own friends.” At the same time, it was remarked by every one that she had not lost the feelings of womanly modesty—even after having lived so long among naked blacks ; she seemed acutely to feel the singularity of her position—dressed only in a couple of shirts, in the inidst of a crowd of her own countrymen. When first seen on shore our new shipmate presented so dirty and wretched an appearance that some people who were out shooting at first mistook her for agin, and were passing by without taking further notice, when she called out to them in English, “ I am a white woman, why do you leave me?” With the exception of a narrow fringe of leaves in front, she wore no clothing, and her skin was tanned and blistered with the sun, and shewed the marks of several large burns which had been received from sleeping too near the fire on cold nights ; besides, she was suffering from ophthalmia, which had previously deprived her of the sight of one eye. But good living, and every comfort (for Captain Stanley kindly provided her with a cabin and a seat at his table), combined with medical attention, very soon restored her health, and she was eventually handed over to her parents in Syd- ney in excellent condition. Although perfectly illiterate, Mrs. Thomson had made good use of her powers of observation, and VOL. I. x Digitized by Microsoft® 306 PROCEEDINGS WHILE ON BOARD. evinced much shrewdness in her remarks upon various subjects connected with her residence among the blacks, joined to great willingness to communi- cate any information which she possessed. Much of this will be found in another part of this volume, incorporated with the result of my own observa- tions. Several hundred words of the Kowraréga language, and a portion of its grammar, were also obtained from time to time, and most of these were subsequently verified. And, although she did not understand the language spoken at Cape York, yet, as some of the Gudang people there knew the Kowraréga, through its medium I was usually able to make myself tolerably well understood, and thus obtain an explanation of some matters which had formerly puzzled me, and correct various errors into which I had fallen. It was well, too, that I took an early opportunity of procuring these words, for my informant afterwards forgot much of , her lately acquired language, and her value as an authority on that subject gradually diminished. Grom was evidently a great favourite with the blacks, and hardly a day passed on which she was not obliged to hold a levee in her cabin for the reception of friends from the shore, while other visitors, less favoured, were content to talk to her through the port. They occasionally brought pre- sents of fish and turtle, but always expected an equivalent of some kind. Her friend Boroto, the nature of the intimacy with whom was not at first Digitized by Microsoft® SURVEY OF TORRES STRAIT COMPLETED. 307 understood, after in vain attempting by smooth words and fair promises to induce her to go back to live with him, left the ship in a rage, and we were not sorry to get rid of so impudent and troublesome a visitor as he had become. Previous to leaving, he had threatened that, should he or any of his friends ever catch his faithless spouse on shore, they would take off her head to carry back with them to Miralug; and so likely to be fulfilled did she consider this threat, being in perfect accordance with their customs, that she never after- wards ventured on shore at Cape York. During the period of our stay at Cape York, the Bramble, Asp, and Rattlesnake’s pinnace were sent away to the western entrance of Torres Strait to finish the survey, and returned after a month’s absence. The boats had held no intercourse with any of the natives, except a small party of Kow- rarégas, the inhabitants of Mulgrave and Banks Islands having carefully avoided them. Hopes had been entertained priorto starting of seemg something of a white man of the name of Wini, who had lived with the Badts for many years. Gi’om had seen and conversed with him during’ a visit to Maralug which he had made in hopes of inducing her to share his fortunes. She supposed him to be a foreigner, from his not appearing to understand the English she used when asked by him to speak in her native tongue. He had reached Mulgrave Island ina boat after having, by his own account, killed x 2 Digitized by Microsoft® 308 WINI AND THE his companions, some three or four in number. In course of time he became the most important person in the tribe, having gained an ascendancy by procuring the death of his principal enemies and intimidating others, which led to the establishment of his fame as a warrior, and he became in conse- quence the possessor of several wives, a canoe, and some property in land, the cultivation of which last he pays great attention to. Wini’s character ap- pears from the accounts I have heard—for others corroborated part of Gi’om’s statement —to be a com- pound of villany and cunning, in addition to the ferocity and headstrong passions of a thorough savage,—it strikes me that he must have been a runaway convict, probably from Norfolk Island. It is fortunate that his sphere of mischief is so limited, for a more dangerous ruffian could not easily be found. As matters stand at present, it is probable that not only during his life, but for years after- wards, every European who falls into the hands of the Badu people will meet with certain death.* * In further illustration of this assertion I give the following note with which I have lately been furnished by Mr. J. Sweatman, R.N., who served in the Bramble at the time of the occurrence of the murder to which it alludes. In June 1846 the supercargo and a boat’s crew of a small vessel from Sydney procuring trepang and tortoise-shell in Torres Strait, landed upon Mulgrave Island (the vessel being about seven miles off) in order to barter for tortoise-shell. The natives appeared at first to be friendly enough, but, towards evening some circumstances occurred which induced the boat’s crew to re-embark, and they then went to a Digitized by Microsoft® MULGRAVE ISLANDERS. 3809 The inhabitants of the neighbouring Banks Island are described by Gi’om as evincing the same hostility towards Europeans. Only a few years ago the Italegas, one of the two tribes inhabiting that island, murdered two white men and a boy, who had reached their inhospitable shores in a small boat, probably from a wreck. Such savage out- rages committed by the inhabitants of the north- western islands would probably be completely prevented were they oftener visited by Europeans ; such was the case with the people of Darnley Island, once dangerous savages, now safely to be dealt with by taking the usual precautions, and where, as at the Murray Islands, I believe strangers in distress, without valuable property, would now be kindly treated. We remained nine weeks at our anchorage in small sand-bank about a mile off to pass the night there. The supercargo and three men landed, leaving two men in the boat at anchor; about midnight the latter were alarmed at hearing shouts and yells on shore, and, landing in haste, found that the natives had attacked their comrades, whose muskets, being Gamp, were quite useless. The supercargo and two men were killed—a shot from the boat however dispersed the natives sufficiently for the two men to drag their surviving comrade into the boat, but he had an arrow through the body, and his hands were partially severed, and he soon died. The bodies of the three people on the sand-bank could not be recovered, the natives returning to the attack with showers of arrows, nor could the small force on board the schooner attempt to punish. the perpetrators of this unpro- voked murder. Digitized by Microsoft® 310 INTERCOURSE WITH CAPE YORK NATIVES. Evans Bay. The natives, of whom there were usually a number encamped in the neighbour- hood, attracted by the presence of the ship, as vul- tures by a carcass, continued on perfectly friendly terms, assisted the wooding and watering parties, brought off fish and portions of turtle to the ship, and accompanied us on our walks on shore. The usual remuneration for their services was biscuit, and, next to that, tobacco, besides which axes and knives were highly prized and occasionally given them. Immediately on landing for the purpose of an excursion, each of us looked out for his kotaiga* from among a crowd of applicants surrounding the boat, the haversack was thrown across his shoulders, and away we started for the bush. It was often difficult for the possessor of a good stock of biscuit to shake off other useless volunteers ; these hangers-on, with few exceptions, were more remarkable for their capacity for food than for their powers of endurance, shewing a deeply rooted antipathy to any exertion not actually necessary, and for every trifling addi- tional service asking for bisiker miro, choka miro, neipa, or some such thing. Still a few of these same blacks make a very agreeable addition to a shooting party, as besides their services as guides, and in pointing out game, they formed amusing companions and enlivened many a noonday bivouac * Derived from the Kowrarega word Kutaig (younger brother); here in the jargon used between us it signified friend, associate, companion, &c. Digitized by Microsoft® INDUCE THEM TO GET UP A NIGHT DANCE. 811 or dull thirsty march in the hot sun with their songs, jokes, and mimicry. One evening I was asked to join a party made up for the purpose of witnessing a native dance. Many strange blacks were then encamped on the margin of the beach, and altogether about 150 people belonging to four or five tribes had collected. Not being apprised of our coming they shewed much surprise and suspicion at our landing after dark, but, with some trouble, a number were induced by the pro- mise of a quantity of biscuit to get up a dance round vlarge fire on the sand to the music of a drum which we had taken with us to announce our ap- proach. The dance after all wasa very poor affair, — none of the performers were painted and decorated, there was little scenic effect, and they seemed glad when it was over. The bag containing the pro- mised biscuit was most injudiciously handed over to an old woman named Baki, or “queena woman Baki,” as some one had taught her to call herself, for distribution among: the party. She doled out a few handfuls to some women and children who had not been at all concerned in the matter, and would have marched off with the remainder had she not been prevented. The appointment of a woman to this office wave great offence to the men who had been dancing,—while not one among them would have scrupled forcibly to deprive her of the whole on the very first opportunity, yet every man there scorned the idea of having to ask a woman for anything,— Digitized by Microsoft® 312 NEARLY QUARREL WITH THEM. the consequence was that the performers were not rewarded, and naturally imagined that we had broken faith with them. The discontent increased, some of the men left in a state of great excitement, and went for their spears and throwing sticks. One or two rockets were sent up soon after to amuse them, on which the few remaining women and children hurried to their sheds of bark and hid their faces in terror. When a blue light was burned, and lit up the gloomy shadows of the neighbouring bush, it disclosed the spectral figures of many armed men among the trees, singly and in groups, intently watching our motions. Paida, who with other native allies of ours still remained with us, was very urgent for us to be off,. telling me that spears would be thrown immediately (kaibi: halaka miro) ; being a kotaig of mine, he considered him- self bound to attend to my safety, so conducted me to the boat which he assisted in shoving off, nor did he retire from the beach until we had got into deep water. I have alluded to this occurrence, trivial as it may appear, not without an object. It serves as an illustration of the policy of respecting the known customs of the Australian race, even in apparently trifling matters, at least during the early period of intercourse with a tribe, and shews how a little want of judgment in the director of our party caused the most friendly intentions to be misconstrued, and might have led to fatal results. I must confess Digitized by Microsoft® OBSERVATIONS ON CAUSE OF OFFENCE. 3813 that I should have considered any injury sustained on our side to have been most richly merited ; more- over, I am convinced that some at least of the collisions which have taken place in Australia, between the first European visitors and the natives of any given district, have originated in causes of offence brought on by the indiscretion of one or more of the party, and revenged on others who were innocent. As a memorable instance I may give that which happened during Leichhardt’s overland journey to Port Essington, when his camp was attacked one evening, and Mr. Gilbert lost his life. Long: afterwards the undoubted cause of this appa- rently unaccountable attack transpired in the acknowledgment, while intoxicated, by one of the persons concerned, that a gross outrage had been committed upon an aboriginal woman a day or two previously, by the two blacks belonging to the expe- dition. One day I witnessed a native fight, which may be described here, as such occurrences, although fre- quent enough in Australia, have by Europeans been witnessed only in the settled districts. It was one of those smaller fights, or usual modes of settling a quarrel when more than two people are concerned, and assumed quite the character of a duel upon a large scale. At day-break, I landed in company with six or seven people who were gomg out on different shooting parties. The natives came down to the boat as usual, but all carried throwing-sticks Digitized by Microsoft® 814 WITNESS A NATIVE FIGHT. —contrary to their usual practice of late; and at the place where they had slept, numbers of spears were stuck up on end in the sand. These prepara- tions surprised me, but Paida would not explain the cause and seemed anxious to get me away. The shooters marched off—each with his. black—but I loitered behind, walking slowly along the beach. About 200 yards from the first camping-place, two groups of strange natives, chiefly men, were assembled with throwing-sticks in their hands and bundles of spears. While passing them they moved along in twos and threes towards the Evans Bay party, the men of which advanced to meet them. The women and children began to make off, but a few remained as spectators on the sands, it being then low water. A great deal of violent gesticu- lation and shouting took place, the parties became more and more excited, and took up their position in two scattered lines facing each other, extending from the margin of the beach to a little way in the bush, and about twenty-five yards apart. Paida, too, partook of the excitement and could refrain no longer from joining in the fight; he dropped my haversack and bounded away at full speed to his camping-place, where he received his spears from little Purom his son, and quickly made his appear- ance upon the scene of action. The two parties were pretty equally matched— about fifteen men in each. The noise now became deafening; shouts of defiance, insulting expressions, Digitized by Microsoft® DEXTERITY IN THROWING THE SPEAR. 815 and every kind of abusive epithet were bandied about, and the women and children in the bush kept up a wailing cry all the while rising and falling in cadence. The pantomimic movements were of various descriptions ; besides the singular quivering’ motion given to the thighs placed wide apart (common to all the Australian dances), they frequently invited each other to throw at them, turning the body half round and exposing the breech, or dropping on one knee or hand as if to offer a fair mark. At length a spear was thrown and returned, followed by many others, and the fighting became general, with an occasional pause. The precision with which the spears were thrown was not less remarkable than the dexte- rity with which they were avoided. In nearly every case the person thrown at would, apparently, have been struck had he stood still, but, his keenness of sight enabled him to escape by springing: aside as required, variously inclining the body, or some- times merely lifting up a leg to allow the spear to pass by, and had two been thrown at one per- son at the same moment he could scarcely have escaped, but this I observed was never attempted, as it would have been in war,—here each individual appeared to have a particular opponent. I had a capital view of the whole of the proceedings, being seated about fifty yards behind and slightly on the flank of one of the two contending parties. One spear thrown higher than usual passed within five yards of me, but this I was satisfied was the result of Digitized by Microsoft® 316 DISCOVERY OF MEW RIVER. accident, as I had seen it come from Paida’s party. Soon afterwards I observed a man at the right extreme of the line next me, who had been dodging round a large scevola bush for some time back, make a sudden dart at one of the opposite party and chop him down the shoulder with an iron toma- hawk. The wounded man fell, and instantly a yell of triumph denoted that the whole matter was at an end. Paida rejoined me five minutes afterwards, appa- rently much refreshed by this little excitement, and accompanied me on my walk, still he would not explain the cause of the fight. The wounded man had his arm tied up by one of our people who landed soon afterwards, and, although the cut was both large and deep, he soon recovered. The frequent excursions of our shooting parties being more extended than during our last visit became the means of adding considerably to our knowledge of the surrounding country. One of the immediate consequences was the discovery of several small streams of fresh water. The principal of these, which we named Mew River (after its first finder, the sergeant of marines on board), has its mouth in a small mangrove creek three-quarters of a mile to the eastward of Evans Bay. About five miles further up its source was found to be a spring among rocks in a dense calamus scrub. It waters a fine valley running nearly east and west behind the range of hills to the southward of Evans Bay, Digitized by Microsoft® THE VALLEY OF THE MEW. 317 and its line is marked by a belt of tangled brush exceeding in luxuriance anything of the same des- cription which I had seen elsewhere. The variety of trees in this dense brush is very great, and many were quite new tome. The Seaforthia palm attained the height of 60 to 80 feet, and the rattan was very abundant, and from the recurved prickles catching and tearing the clothes, it was often no easy matter to penetrate the thickets. Among the plants along the river the most interesting is an indigenous species of banana or plantain, probably the same as that found at Endeavour River during Cook’s first voyage. The fruit is of small size with numerous hard seeds and a small quantity of delicious pulp; cultivation would, doubtless, wonderfully improve it. Another remarkable plant found on the grassy borders of the jungle and characteristic of rich damp soil is a beau- tiful species of Roscea (?), (one of the Scitamineze or ginger family), about a foot high, with a solitary leaf and large bractece, the lower green and the upper ones pink, partially concealing handsome yellow flowers. From its succulent nature I failed in preparing specimens for the herbarium, but some roots were preserved and given to the Botanical Garden at Sydney. The lower part of the valley is open forest land, or nearly level and thinly wooded country covered with tall coarse grass. Further up it becomes more beautiful. From the belt of wood, concealing the windings of the river, erassy sloping meadows extend Digitized by Microsoft® 318 PROPOSED SETTLEMENT upwards on each side to the flanking ridges which are covered with dense scrub occasionally extending in straggling patches down to the water, and forming a kind of imperfect natural fence. The soil of these meadows is rich sandy loam, affording great appa- rent facilities for cultivation from their proximity to what is probably a never failing supply of fresh water. Here, at the end of the dry season, and before the periodical rains had fairly set in, we found the stream at half way up to be about six feet in average breadth, slowly running over a shallow, gravelly, or earthy bed, with occasional pools from two to four feet in depth. I have alluded to this subject at greater length than under ordinary circumstances I would have done, in the belief that, should a settlement ever be established at Cape York, the strip of good land that runs along the upper part of Mew River may hereafter be turned to good account. Several other valleys watered by small and apparently permanent streams were discovered by our shooting parties, chiefly by Wilcox and the sergeant of marines ; these were afterwards visited by me, and my opinion of the productiveness of the country about Cape York almost daily became more and more favourable the further I extended my excursions. I need scarcely repeat the arguments which have been adduced in favour of the expediency, I may almost say necessity, of establishing a military post, or small settlement of some kind, in the vicinity of Digitized by Microsoft® AT CAPE YORK. 319 Cape York. simply because, while perfectly agreeing with Mr. Jukes* and several other persons who have drawn the public attention to the subject, I have little in addition to offer. Still a few words on the question may not be out of place. The benefi- cial results to be looked for were such a settlement to be formed would be — Ist. A port of refuge would be afforded to the crews of vessels wrecked in Torres Strait, and its approaches, who otherwise must make for Booby Island, and there await the uncertainty of being picked up by some passing vessel, or even attempt im the boats to reach Coupang in Timor, a distance of 1100 miles further. And now that the settlement at Port Essington has been abandoned the necessity for such a place of refuge is still greater. 2nd. Passing vessels might be supplied with water and other refreshments, also stores, such as anchors, &e., which last are frequently lost during the pas- sage of the Strait. 3rd. The knowledge of the existence of such a post would speedily exercise a beneficial influence over our intercourse with the natives of Torres Strait, and induce them to refrain from a repetition of the outrages which they have frequently committed upon Europeans; the little trade in tortoiseshell which might be pushed in the Strait (as has fre- quently been done before by small vessels from Sydney and even from Hong Kong) would no longer * Voyage of the Fly, vol. i. p. 302. Digitized by Microsoft® 320 ITS ADVANTAGES. be a dangerous one—and protection would be afforded to the coaling depét for steamers at Port Albany.* 4th. In a military point of view the importance of such a post has been urged upon the ground, that in the event of war, a single enemy’s ship stationed in the neighbourhood, if previously unoccupied, could completely command the whole of our commerce passing through the Strait. 5th. From what more central point could opera- tions be conducted with the view of extending our knowledge of the interior of New Guinea by ascend- ing some of the large rivers of that country, dis- emboguing on the shores of the Great Bight? 6th and lastly. But on this point I would advance my opinion with much diffidence—I believe that were a settlement to be established at Cape York, missionary enterprize, judiciously conducted, might find a useful field for its labours in Torres Strait, beginning with the Murray and Darnley Islanders, people of a much higher intellectual standard than the Australians, and consequently more likely to appreciate any humanizing influence which might be exercised for their benefit. Several kangaroos or wallabies, the largest of * I adduce this last advantage on the presumption, which now assumes a greater degree of probability than before—that the steam communication before alluded to (p. 132), will be estab- lished, and that the Torres Strait route, the one which is almost generally advocated, will be the one adopted. Digitized by Microsoft® KANGAROO AND NEW BIRDS. 821 which weighed forty pounds, were killed during our stay at Cape York. A kangaroo dog belonging’ to Captain Stanley made several fine runs, all of them unsuccessful however, as the chase was seldom upon open ground, and there was little chance of over- taking the kangaroo before it got into some neigh- bouring thicket where the dog could not follow it. This wallaby proved to be the Halmaturus agilis, first found at Port Essington, and afterwards by Leich- hardt in Carpentaria. A singular bat of a reddish brown colour was shot one day while asleep sus- pended from a branch of a tree; it belonged to the genus Harpyia, and was therefore a contribution to the Australian fauna. Among many additions to the ornithological col- lections of the voyage were eight or nine new species oi birds, and about seven others previously known only as inhabitants of New Guinea and the neighbour- ing islands.* The first of these which came under my notice was an enormous black parrot (.Wicroglos- sus aterrimus) with crimson cheeks; at Cape York it feeds upon the cabbage of various palms, stripping down the sheath at the base of the leaves with its powerful, acutely-hooked upper mandible. The next in order of occurrence was a third species of the genus Tanysiptera (T. Sylvia), a gorgeous kingfisher with two long, white, central tail-feathers, inhabiting * Many of these have since been figured and described, with accompanying notes on their habits, &c., in the recently published Supplement to Mr. Gould’s Birds of Australia. VOL, I. Y Digitized by Microsoft® 822 NATIVE BIRD-NESTING. the brushes, where the glancing of its bright colours as it darts past in rapid flight arrests the attention for a moment ere it is lost among the dense foliage. I may next allude to Aplonis metallica—a bird somewhat resembling a starling, of a dark glossy green and purple hue, with metallic reflections—in connection with its singular nest. One day I was taken by a native to the centre of a brush, where a gigantic cotton tree standing alone was hung with about fifty of the large pensile nests of this species. After I had made several unsuccessful attempts to shoot down one of the nests by firing with ball at the supporting branch, the black volunteered to climb the tree, provided I would give him a knife. I was puzzled to know how he proposed to act, the trunk being upwards of four feet in diameter at the base, and the nearest branch being about sixty feet from the ground. He procured a tough and pliant shoot of a kind of vine (Cissus), of sufficient length to pass nearly round the tree, and holding one end of this in each hand and pressing his legs and feet against the tree, he ascended by a series of jerks, resting occasionally, holding on for half a minute at a time with one end of the vine in his mouth. At length he reached the branches and threw me down as many nests as I required. He afterwards filled the bag which he carried round his neck with the unfledged young birds, which on our return to the native camp on the beach were thrown alive upon the fire, in spite of my remon- Digitized by Microsoft® A NEW BOWER-BIRD. 323 strances, and when warmed through were devoured with great apparent relish by himself and _ his friends. Two days before we left Cape York I was told that some bower-birds had been seen in a thicket, or patch of low scrub, half a mile from the beach, and after a long search I found a recently con- structed bower, four feet long and eighteen inches high, with some fresh berries lying upon it. The bower was situated near the border of the thicket, the bushes composing which were seldom more than ten feet high, growing in smooth sandy soil without erass. Next morning I was landed before daylight, and proceeded to the place in company with Paida, taking with us a large board on which to carry off the bower as a specimen. I had great difficulty in ¥2 Digitized by Microsoft® 824 A NEW BOWER-BIRD. inducing my friend to accompany me, as he was afraid of a war party of Gomokudins, which tribe had lately given notice that they were coming to fight the Evans Bay people. However I promised to protect him, and loaded one barrel with ball, which gave him increased confidence, still he insisted upon carrying a large bundle of spears and a throwing-stick. Of late Paida’s tribe have taken steps to prevent being surprised by their enemies. At night they remove in their canoes to the neigh- bouring island Robumo, and sleep there, returning in the morning to the shore, and take care not to go away to a distance singly or unarmed. While watching in the scrub I caught several glimpses of the teminya (the native name) as it darted through the bushes in the neighbourhood of the bower, announcing’ its presence by an occasional loud churr-r-r, and imitating the notes of various other birds, especially the leather-head. I never before met with a more wary bird, and for a long time it enticed me to follow it to a short distance, then flying off and alighting on the bower, it would deposit a berry or two, run through, and be off again (as the black told me) before I could reach the spot. All this time it was impossible to get a shot. At length, just as my patience was becoming exhausted, I saw the bird enter the bower and disappear, when I fired at random through the twigs, fortunately with effect. So closely had we concealed ourselves latterly, and so silent had we Digitized by Microsoft® BRUSH TURKEY. 825 been, that a kangaroo while feeding actually hop- ped up within fifteen yards, unconscious of our presence until fired at. My bower-bird proved to be a new species, since described by Mr. Gould as Chlamydera cerviniventris, and the bower is ex- bited in the British Museum. Among the game birds of Cape York, the emu is entitled to the first rank. Only two or three, however, were seen, and we were not fortunate enough to procure one. One day an emu allowed me to approach within fifty yards by stalking it cautiously, holding up a large green bough before me, when, becoming alarmed, it darted in its fright into a thicket and was lost to view. Many brush turkeys (Zulegalla Lathami) were shot by our sports- men, and scarcely a day passed on which the natives did not procure for us some of their eggs. The mode in which these and other egg's are cooked by the blacks is to roll them up in two or three large leaves, and roast them in the ashes; the ego's burst, of course, but the leaves prevent the contents from escaping. Both bird and eggs are excellent eating; the latter, averaging three and a half inches in length, of a pure white colour, are deposited in low mounds of earth and leaves in the dense brushes in a similar manner to those of the megapodius, and are easily dug out with the hand. I have seen three or four taken out of one mound where they were arranged in a large circle, a foot and a half from the surface. The laying bird carefully effaces Digitized by Microsoft® 326 SEASONS. any mark shé may have made in scooping out a place for the eggs, but the keen eye of a native quickly detects the slightest sign of recent disturb- ance of the mound, and he seldom fails to hit upon the eggs. As at Port Essington, the year at Cape York is divided into two seasons,* the dry and the rainy. From personal observation and other sources of information, it would appear that the limits and duration of these admit of so much variation that it is impossible to determine with certainty, even within a month, when one ceases and the other begins. It would appear however that the dry season, cha- racterized by the prevalence of the south-east trade, usually terminates in November, the change having for some time previous been indicated by calms, light winds, sometimes from the westward, a gloomy un- settled appearance in the weather, and occasional showers—violent squalls of wind and rain are fre- quent about this time until’ the westerly breezes set in, when the weather becomes moderate with frequent rain, occasionally very heavy, and intervals, often of many days duration, of dry weather. In the month of March the south-east trade usually re- sumes its former influence, the change being often attended with the same thick squally weather, and * The natives of the neighbouring Prince of Wales Island distinguish the dry season (aibé or the fine weather), the wet (kiki or the N.W. wind which then prevails), and the period of change (malgai), equivalent to our Spring and Autumn. Digitized by Microsoft® WINDS. 327 perhaps a gale from the north-west, which ushered in the westerly monsoon. Our own experience of the winds during our last stay at Cape York, at the period when the change of the monsoon was to be expected, may be summed up as follows. During the month of October the trade wind prevailed, keeping pretty steady at E.S8.E., and generally blowing rather strongly, with hazy weather and an occasional shower. For three days in the middle of the month we experi- enced light north-westerly winds dying away again in the evening, and on the 25th a violent squall from the same quarter accompanied by very heavy rain rendered it expedient that the ship should next day be moved a cable’s length further off shore. During the four last days in the month we had calms and light winds from the northward of east, as if the trade were about to cease, but it commenced afresh and continued until the 26th of November, generally very moderate, with fine weather. During the last six days of our stay we had hght airs from about N. W.., succeeded in the evening by a slight puff of south-easterly wind followed by a calm lasting all night. Last year, during the month of October, we experienced no northerly or westerly winds, but a moderate trade prevailed throughout, pretty steady at E. 8. E., but varying much in strength. In a place situated like Cape York, only about 640 miles distant from the equator, the atmospheric temperature may be expected to be very high; still Digitized by Microsoft® 328 TEMPERATURE. the heat, although occasionally very oppressive for a time, caused very different sensations from those experienced during the almost stifling calms of Port Essington. At Cape York, however, calms seldom lasted above a few hours, as from its peninsular posi- tion the land receives the full influence of nearly every breeze. An abstract of the thermometrical observations made on board the Rattlesnake shews the following results :— Oct. 1848. aver. 81° aver.max. 850 aver. min. 770 5 » 1849. 55 8le ‘sy 83° 8 a 78° 7 Noy.1849. __,, 81°9 35 84°8 a 79° During the above period, the highest and lowest temperatures recorded by the self-registering maxi- mum and minimum thermometer are, for October 1848, 88° and 78°; for October 1849, 83° 8 and 77°; and for November 1849, 88° and 76°. Digitized by Microsoft® APPENDIX. No. I. Observations on the temperature of the Sea, made during the Voyage of H.M.S. Rattlesnake, Dec, 1846—July, 1847. BY JOSEPH DAYMAN, RN. Lieut. and Assistant Surveyor. Position of Ship T Temperature of Sea Date emp: Lat. Long. of Air | Surface |Depth in fath.|/Depth in fath. 1846 Dec. 17 | 34°52’ N| 16°24’/W| 59° 61° | 61° 132 » 28 | 28 34 18 38 66 67 63 130 » 30 | 23 22 20 58 68 69 66 66 | 61°190 » 31 {2113 |22 1 | 66 | 71 | 61 193 1847 Jan. 1 | 18 40 | 23 18 68 73 | 70 78 | 57 178 » 2|15 28 | 23 22 | 72 | 73 | 53 180 5. 8 8 55 22 38 78 .| 82 59 191 » O| 6 28 | 22 39 82 84 | 51 185 66 | «65 54 | 22 34 | 79 | 82 | 50 361 ” 7 5 8 22 19 82 83 49 340 yy. 12 1 5 22 32 77 83 52 335 », 14| 2378/2615 | 79 | 80 | 53 268 » 15 5 9 | 27 51 78 80 | 54 153 | 60 293 ° 6] 755 | 2911 | 79 | 80 | 53 183 | 47 273 * 17 | 1249 | 3223 | 79 | 81 | 80 59 » 19] 15 5 | 34 44 79 80 | 59 226 | 62 317 » 20|17 48 | 36 20 80 81 67 132 » 21 | 2010 | 37 58 78 80 | 59 146 | 50 306 Feb. 4 | 26 7 | 40 30 66 77 (| 60 231 | 51 351 35 5 | 27 21 38 1 73 76 65 182 | 51 342 » 8 | 30 52 | 36 48 71 73 =| 61 200 | 51 360 9 | 33 22 | 36 54 | 68 | 70 | 60 184 | 50 324 » 10] 35 21 35 31 68 68 62 168 | 49 309 » 12] 37 20 | 30 58 69 66 | 57 205 | 45 355 » 13 | 36 50 | 27 50 66 66 | 62 215 | 45 370 » 15 | 36 31 24 7 63 64 58 194 | 45 339 ” 16|36 7 |21 4 | 59 | 66 | 55 196 | 47 336 » 17 | 35 30 19 34 64 69 58 215 | 51 366 ” 18136 47 | 18 47 | 64 | 68 | 57 128 | 50 257 » 19|38 7 16 43 65 63 | 48 370 Digitized by Microsoft® 330 APPENDIX. Date Position of Ship Temp. Temperature of Sea Lat. Long. of Air | Surface |Depth in fath.)Depth in fath. 1847 o on o 1 0 0 0 0 Feb. 21 | 37 54 S| 10 28W| 59 62 53 205 | 43 345 » 23) 36 4 4 53 62 67 61 205 | 48 345 » 24 | 34 42 415 69 70 51 364 | 44 650 » 25 | 35 28 3 6 68 69 54 195 | 46 335 » 26 | 36 57 1 31 65 67 53 195 | 49 335 »» 27 | 38 22 0 28 64 62 55 192 | 45 338 Mar. 1 | 38 25 4 1E 56 55 48 195 | 44 335 » 38 | 36 47 10 24 63 66 | 54 208 | 46 348 » 41] 36 41 12 1 66 64 55 188 | 46 328- » 5 | 36 22 13 40 66 68 52 217 | 46 367 » 6] 36 24 14 42 71 70 | 65 147 | 56 284 Apr. 13 | 36 17 26 43 61 68 62 215 | 60 360 » 14} 36 53 27 49 66 69 65 215 | 56 360 » 15 | 38 10 29 39 67 69 67 205 | 58 350 » 16/38 8 | 32 54 69 69 | 64 128 | 60 278 » 19 | 37 49 39 50 64 59 51 266 | 53 316 » 21 | 38 13 45 36 66 60 55 158 | 52 293 » 24 | 34 24 54 14 60 64 60 157 | 58 287 » 26] 3013 | 56 50 65 71 61 162 | 60 283 » 27} 28 16 | 57 18 70 73 ~+| 60 210 | 57 360 » 28 | 26 56 | 57 31 70 74 =| 60 200 | 57 350 May 1| 25 48 61 6 74 _ 62 165 | 59 320 » 38] 20 42 | 58 47 76 77 ~+'| 74 140 | 57 300 » 18] 21 53 56 45 77 77 63 182 s» 19 | 24 16 56 58 76 75 71 182 » 20] 26 9 58 45 74 71 63 140 | 73 360 » 21 | 27 36 | 61 9 69 73 =| 54 333 3 22 1:28 6 63 30 68 69 53 300 » 24} 28 1 67 28 67 69 54 286 » 23 | 29 49 | 67 14 66 66 | 54 360 » 26|32 4 | 68 6 65 65 | 55 340 » 27 | 33 48 70 11 63 63 54 350 » 28 | 35 33 72 6 61 60 55 350 » 29 | 36 6 74 15 60 59 52 350 June 1] 35 0 | 80 56 61 59 | 55 346 » 6 | 36 42 97 54 55 56 51 320 » 12} 39 57 |118 0 48 54 | 45 320 » 14/40 46 {123 26 49 53 50,380 July 9 [15 miles EJof Cape Pil-| 53 55 | 48 375 lar, VanDie-|men’s Land.| Digitized by Microsoft® APPENDIX. 331 No. II. Tux following pages contain abstracts of the meridian ‘distances measured in H.M. Surveying Ship “ Rattle- snake” and her tender the “Bramble,” in the survey of the Inner Route through Torres Strait, the Louisiade Archipelago, and the 8S. E. Coast of New Guinea, during the years 1847-8-9 and 50, under the command of the late Captain Owen Stanley, R.N., F.R.S. The Ist three columns require no explanation. The 4th (interval of days) is the elapsed time between the last day at the first station and first day at the second. The 7th (meridian distance in arc) is the result of the particular measurement specified between the two places named. The 8th (mean meridian distance from Sydney) is that deduced by a mean value of two or more distances by the same T. K.’s, and in some instances of one only, in some of the principal stations connected with the survey. The times throughout these abstracts have been deter- mined by equal altitudes of the sun, excepting in those instances where the contrary is specified by A.A. The interpolations in the “ Rattlesnake’s” distances have been calculated by Owen’s method: those of the “ Bramble” by a method of Lieut. Yule’s. In the “ Rattlesnake’s” distances interpolation has been employed throughout ; in the “ Bramble’s” only where an intermediate distance is measured between two rates. The asterisks point out the place to which the mean meridian from Sydney refers. Digitized by Microsoft® 332 APPENDIX. Abstract of Meridian Distances measured in H. M. Surveying Digitized by Microsoft® oy 3 zB} 2 |3¢ es < = 38 see 2 * sc im = se he er, distance @| PLACES MEASURED BeTweeN. |@| = | 22 | g@ | Meridian from z a ¢ ge & a Are Fort Macquarie, s| & |#2 | Be . Sydney. ef Fey Magi ES ° _ se a a7 Bec. or fw 1846} Greenwich and Madeira 7 ‘ 14] 10 V7 o- 16 53 22W 2 5 1847} Madeira & Rat. I. Rio de Janeiro . 12/31 | 31-6 v 2614 38W, .. . » | Rat. I, Rio Janeiro and Simon’s Bay 12/36 | 50 . 61 32 52E : o »> | Simon’s Bay and Mauritius I. 13|28 | 20 oe 39 1 6E oe », | Mauritius I. and Hobarton, V. D. L. 14/40 {40 a 89 45 43E ‘ », |Hobarton and Sydney . . . 11] 11 5 . 3 52 39E oa ti » | Sydney and *Parramatta 2 ‘ 10] 1 06 : 01313W; *0 13 13W » | Sydney and *Twofold Bay . : 9) 35] 3 ‘ 117 53W) *1 17 53W >» | Twofold Bayand *Gabol. . 3 8] 5 21 : 000 37W| *1 18 35W 3, | Gabo I. and Fort Macquarie . 8] 4 9°5 : 118 40E . - ,, | Twofold Bay and Fort Macquarie . 9} 9 |126], o| 117 54h) .. oe », | Fort Macquarie and *MoretonI. . 16} 8 8 |60to81; 2 9 59E 184%] Moreton I.and Fort Macquarie . 15/10 |10 a 2 825W!|-*2 9 30E 1849] Sydney and Moreton I. . . : 17| 7-5 }15 |62to75| 210 7E 1847| Moreton I.and *Port Curtis . : 16/12 |14 |71 81) 15959W| *0 8 87E », | Port Curtis and Port Molle . . 15} 11 83 |64 84) 23048W] .. we » | Port Molle and Cape Upstart 16] 24) 1:5 ite 1 5 42W Sie >, | Cape Upstart and *Port Molle . 16} 4 15 1 542E | *2 21 538W », | Port Molleand MoretonI. . . 15 | 22-5 | 28 4 31 59E aie 1848) Sydney and *Port Phillip ‘ 15} 11 6-4 61814W| *6 19 48W » | Point Gellibrand and Shortlands Bluff |16| 3 26 014 18W » | Point Gellibrand and Port Dalrymple 16} 9 | 12°5 155 30E| .. - »» | Port Dalrymple and Sydney . . 16/14 |142 os 4 25 53E : ate » | Sydney and *Rockingham Bay . 16)31 |28-9 |64to84| 5 327W) *5 3 27W » |Sydney and *Cape Upstart . 16|22 |25°8|64 79| 327 00W| *3 27 37W », | Rockingham Bay and Cape Upstart 16| 9 82/73 84) 1 36 32E é » | Mound Islet and No. 3 Barnard Group) 16| 4 38/71 84] 0 218E 3 » | No.3 Barnard Gp. & No.4 Frankland Gp.|16| 5 55172 78) 0 6 4W 5 » |No. 4 Frankland and Fitzroy I... 16| 7 61)72 79} 0 534W P ae »» | Mound Islet and *Fitzroy I. . . 15 | 16 79 |84 72) 0 928W) *5 12 55W », | Fitzroy I. and Islet Trinity Bay . 16} 6 44173 79] 01825W) .. a », | Islet Trinity Bay and Low Isles. 16| 4 24173 77| 0 7 23W oe », | Low Isles and East Hope I. ‘ 16/10 5'4|72 78) 0 6 2W| .. oe », | Fitzroy I. and *East Hope I. . 16 20 91/73 79) 0 3157W| *5 44 52W », | East Hope I. and *Lizard I. . 3 15| 9 37/73 79} 000 7E| *5 44 45W » | Lizard I. and No. 1 Howick Group’ 16| 3 14/1738 79) 92949W] .. : x, | No. 1 Howick, and No. 6 Howick bu 16| 3:5] 13/76 79) 0 8 56W : » | No.6 Howick ‘and Pipon I. 16] 3:5] 25/76 82} 01745W| .. . » | Lizard I. and *Pipon I, 7 . 16/10 2:7|73 82) 0 5614W)| *6 40 59W » |Pipon I, and Pelican I, . - 16| 2 14/76 83; 941 00W| .. . » | Pelican I. and Night I. y 16} 12 69|78 84) 91614W : » |NightI.and C. Reef . E 16] 9 9°4|78 83) 0 432W| .. Ba », |Pipon I. and *C, Reef . “| 16 | 23 97176 84) 1 125W| *7 42 24W », |C. Reefand Piper’sI. . . 16) 4 56|/8u 84) 01719W] .. 25 » |Piper’sI.and SundayI. . 16) 4 48/80 84) 0 1 4W] .. : y, | Sunday I. and Cuirncross I. . ‘ 16} 3 1:6}81 84) 01737W| .. . », |CairncrossI.and Z. Reef. . 16| 2 25/81 84) 012 7W) .. . », |Z. Reefand Cape York . ‘ 3 16| 4 3-7|81 85] 010 22W . » |C. Reefand *Cape York F 16/17 |13:5}78 86) 058 33W 48 42 sw » | Cape York and *Port [-sington 16/10 8-5 |/81 90! 1023 50W! *19 5 58W 1848 | Port Essington and Sydney 15/71 |60 |62 90} 190018W| .. be APPENDIX. 333 Ship, “ Rattlesnake,” by Capt. Owen Stanley, R.N., F.R.S. SPOT OF OBSERVATION. Latitude of Spot of Observation. REMARKS. Mr. Veitch’s Garden, Funchal $ Rat I. Rio de Janeiro N.W. end of Dockyard, Simon’ 8 Bay West side of Tonnelier’sI. . Ross bank Observatory See ea oe Fort Macquarie . . . Parramatta Observatory . Jetty at Eden, Twofold Bay . . . Landing place on West side . . Fort Macquarie . . i - . Ditto . . Watering place near the N, Ww. end Fort Macquarie, Sydney Watering place near the N.W. end ‘Westside of Facing I , Port Curtis . 1-10th mile N. of Sandy Bay, E. side of har. Sandy Bay, near the Cape . 1-10th mile N. of Sandy Bay, E. side of har. Watering place near the N.W end : Lighthouse, Point Gellibrand Lighthouse, Shortland’s Bluff 3 North point of Lagoon De . . Fort Macquarie > Summit of Mound Islet » - = Sandy Bay, near the Cape . . . Ditto ditto - Sandy beach, West extreme . Sandy beach, West side Ditto ditto . Ditto “ditto si Centre of North side of Islet N.E. point of Western Isle Beach on West side of I. . . ditto Ditto . South end of Sandy Bay on West side . N.W. extreme of I. ‘ * Middle of West side of I... ‘ S.W. side of West I... ‘ Ditto ditto . . S8.W. side of Island ; Coral patch, N.W. end of Island Dry sand, N.W. end of reef . < : Ditto ditto . N.E. extreme of West i, on large reef ¥ S.W. side on sandy beach. 7 . N.W. extreme on sandy beach Dry sand on N.W. end . Sextant Rock, Evans’ Bay. . . Ditto ditto : ‘ . Government House, Victoria . ‘ Fort Macquarie 37 53 11 52 48 55 55 43 22 43 43 39 29 26 14 7 14 7 54 13 9 34 34 14 55 14 48 41 41 11 22 33 51 4oN 308 288 108 338 508 208 0s 338 338 448 338 448 455 488 38 488 448 318 08 0S 338 258 38 358 208 228 575 578 268 568 4535 455 568 4658 0S 98 98 218 5858 508 508 308 548 348 508 318 318 28 335 oo Wt 16 53 22W 43 8 0 bot Greenwich. *By the Bramble’s T. K.’s *By the Bramble’s T. K.’s mean of * do. [2 measurements do. do. *Mean of 3 measurements *Mean of 2 measurements *Mean of 2 measurements * do. do. Latitude from Chart *One measurement *Mean of 2 measurements *One measurement *One measurement *One measurement *One measurement *One measurement *The mean of 3 measurements *One measurement “Useless (interval being too long) Digitized by Microsoft® Pr > Pe PP Pr FP re PP AA AA AA AA AA AA AA 334 APPENDIX. 2 & 18.8 vd S |gSE| .£ Mean : ed! = g2e os Meridi Mer. distance = | PLACES MEASURED BETWEEN. |_ 2] — [EZ2| &5 | distance from 5 o5| @ P2e| ge tance IN | Fort Macquari m S BP izcsS| 38 Are. Sane Zz 2 Acs & ydney, BCs) 9 | of 1849| Sydney and Moreton I. i 17} 7-5 |15°0 {62to75} 210 7B] .. » | Moreton I. & No. 1 Obs. Reef ©. Haven |17|21-5| 248/66 85] 0 446w| .. »» | No. 1 Obs. Reef & No. 2. Obs. Reef C.Ha.|17}12 |11'5/81 85/ 012 7W] 4 , ,, 5» | No. 2 Obs. Reef and *Duchateau Isles {17/14 |10°9/81 87] 043 30W| *1 9 7£ », |Duchateau Isles and *BrumerI. . 17) 14 93/79 87| 2 156W| *053 ow », | Brumer I.and *DufaureI. . . 17/16 |20°7/79 85) 037 7W] #1 29 58W » | Brumer I. and Redscar Bay . 3 17/30 |14:3]/79 86] 332 8Ww] .. Pe »» | Redscar Bay and Cape York . 5 17/12 |123/82 86] 420 4W » | Brumer I. and Cape York x 17/42 |22-7) .. 75123W| .. if »» | Cape York and *Mount Ernest . 17| 3 69/83 88] 0 412W] *8 45 2w », | Mid. Duchateau and Cape York . 17/61 =|45:1] .. 95156W| .. ve »» | Cape York and *Bramble Cay . 15/16 |17-4/82 88) 11955E} *7 20 55W » |Cape York and *Redscar Bay ‘ 15/21 |16°7/82 88} 41951E| *4 21 51W 1850] Redscar Bay and Midd. Duchateau 17| 9-5] 66/83 88} 529 55E ue i », | Middle Duchateauand Sydney . 16) 29-5 | 43-4] .. 1 5 59W Sa » |Redscar Bay andSydney . 16/39 |652°4]73 88] 42947E » | Sydney and Bay of Is. New Zealand 15/185 | 16°6 |63 77] 22 54 20E »» | Bay of Ie. and Port Stanley, E. Falkland |15|56-5 |90°5|44 671128 8 9E 1847| Fort Macquarie and Port Stephens 9] 3 2 9 0 47 15E »» | Port Stephens and *MoretonI. . 9} 12 62) 5 1 22 24E 1848] Moreton BayandSydney . . 9/10 85 | 13-5 2 9 OW! -*2 9 25E 1849] Moreton Bayand Sydney . . 10/18 {15°8) 35 2 941W »» | Fort Macquarie and Moreton Bay . 10] 10-5 | 16:2] 8 2 910E 1847] Moreton Bay and Port Curtis. . 10; 8 26) 65 20 7W 1848] Sydney and *Port Curtis ae 9}19 |24 |11 0 719E|}+*0 8 35E 1847| Port Curtis and Moreton Bay 7 10/17 |18 Jj10 2 016E 1848] Sydney and *Kent’s Group, Lt. H.. 10} 95] 50] 9 35511W] *3 55 11W 35 Sydney and *Hobson Bay, Port Phillip |10/16-5| 48] 9 6 18 56W | *6 19 0OW », |Hobson’s Bay and Sydney . 10|17 7 110-5 619 4E x» | Sail Rocks, Pt. Curtis, & Rockingham B.| 10} 4 38) 7 520 3W| .. ad » | Goold I. (Rockingh. Bay) & *Fitzroy I. 10) 15 56) 4 0 950W!] *5 14 19W y»» | Fitzroy I. and a rocky Islet, C. Melville] 10/36 |23°5| 4 138 00W| .. ae » |A rocky Islet, C. Melville, and Pelican I1.}10| 7 83) 35 031 38W] t.. 34 x» | Pelican I. and *Cape York . é 10}15 |10-8} 2-5 117 3W]| *8 40 52W », | Cape York and Booby I. 7 e 10| 2 0-7 | 15 03818W] .. te 1849] Booby I. and Cape York 7 10} 2:5) 3-4) 25 0 38 19W 1848] Cape York and Moreton I. . - 10/38 |23°4) 6 10 49 10E : 1849] Moreton I. and North Solitary I. . 10| 7 4-2 ie 01 =7£E »> | Moreton I. & No.1 Obs. Reef Cor. Haven} 10/21 {41 {20 0 429W » | No. 1 Obs. Reef and No 2 Obs. Reef 10} 13 82) 3:5 01214W » | No.2 Obs. ReefandGreenI.. . 10} 6 5:2| 3 02649W] .. » | No.2 Obs. Reef and Green I. . : 10| 6 3-2] 3 0 26 48W », | Green I. and Duchateau Isles + 10] 3 46) 3 01553wW| .. * » | Green J.and*Middle Duchateau . 10} 1 11] 1 01643W| *1 8 34E x) | Middle Duchateau & Duperre sandbank |10| 3 19 | 3:5 01954W] .. Be »» | Middle Duch4teau and Lejeune Isle 10] 5 34) 4 033 26W| .. a >, | Lejeune I. and Kosmann I. . : 10} 2 2 3 0 16 52W »» | Lejeune I. and EastSable I. . a 10} 29] 2:8] 3 0 25 47W é >, | Lejeune I. and West BarrierI. . 10! 3 22701) 38 0 40 28W », | Lejeune I. and West Dumoulin I. . 10} 5 4:5] 3 1 418W| .. ae » | Middle Duchateau and *Brumer I. . 10/14 |15-6] 4 2 113W| *0 52 40W >» |Brumer I. and *DufaureI. . ? 10/17 5-0 | 2:5 035 20W] *1 27 48W » |BrumerI.and Cape York . ‘ 10}43 |17-9] 4 74819W| .. ae »» |Cape York and DarnleyI. . : 10/125 | 7 2 1 13 39E . »» | Cape York and Bramble Cay . 10}16 {10-3} 1:5 1 20 34E é 1850) Redscar Bay and Bramble, off Round I.| 10] 8 7 3 0 87 45E » | Redscar Bay & Bramble, off C. Rodney | 10/16 8-4) 3 1 35 25E . . », | Redscar Bay and Bramble, off Dufaure}10/21 |142) 3 24841E] . ‘ >» | Redscar Bay & Bramble, off Brumer I. {10/23 |17-9| 3 3 27 34E . 3» | Redscar Bay and Middle Duchateau I. BL, 24-7) 3 5 29 46E »» | Middle Duchateau I. and Syd: | 3 es 1 7 30W » | Sydney and Bay of Is, New Piaieae Py iso *]. 22 55 24E . » | Bay of Is. and FalklandI. . 7157 195 128 3 9E APPENDIX. SPOT OF OBSERVATION. Latitude of Spot of Observation. REMARKS. Watering place near the N.W. end Dry sand, W. extreme of reef . Dry sand, E. extreme of reef Centre of Middle I., North side . ‘At the ship’s anchorage . 2 At the ship’s anchorage . . At the ship’s anchorage Sextant Rock, Evans’ Bay . Ditto ditto . N.W. end of Island Sextant Rock, Evans’ Bay Centre of Bramble Cay 5 Sandy point, N. extremity Pari iwara I. Centre of Middle I., North side. Fort Macquarie . * é Ditto . : Kairaro I., Kororareka Bay | s . In front of Chaplain’s house . . In the Garden, Tahlee House . Watering place on N.W. end of Island Fort Macquarie. . . Ditto . Watering place near N. Ww. end of Island At the Observ. spot W. side of ve I. Ditto ditto Watering place near N.W.end of I. . At the Lighthouse ‘ - Near the Lighthouse, Point Gellibrand . Fort Macquarie . Rocky point, } mile S. of N. W. ex. Goold i The same as ‘‘ Rattlesnake’s” On its summit . ‘ . . 8.W. side of Island Sextant Rock, Evans’ Bay N.W. end of I. . Sextant Rock, Evans’ Bay : Watering place, near N.W. end of I. Summit of Island . Dry sand, W. extremity of reef Dry sand, E. extremity of reef —- On Coral’ Islet, near Green I, (8. side) Ditto’ ditto On the N.E. ex. of Eastern Duchiteau Rattlesnake’s Observation spot On sandbank E. of Duperre Isles . On N.W. extreme ofthe I. . i On middle of North side of Island . Centre of Island . ‘ 5 ‘ East end of Island ‘ . N.W. end, on a detached rock Rattlesnake’s anchorage ‘ Rattlesnake’s anchorage a ‘ Sextant Rock, Evans’ Bay. ‘ . East end of Treacherous Bay Z On the centre of theCay . . On board the ‘“ Bramble,” at anchor Ditto ditto Ditto ditto Ditto ditto = On centre of N. side of Island ‘i : Fort Macquarie ,Bisiised Kairaro I. Kororareka Bay Near Chaplain’s house, Stanley, 0 27 11 11 11 10 10 9 10 10 10 10 9 9 11 33 33 35 51 32 27 33 33 27 23 23 27 39 37 33 18 16 "14 13 10 none observ. 10 27 a2 Il ll 11 11 11 *1] 1 ll 11 ll 11 10 10 10 10 *9 9 9 10 11 a 5 18 21 16 45 30 16 41 41 14 41 8 14 16 51 51 16 41 40 5 51 51 5 51 51 5 29 52 51 9 55 15 54 41 41 5 56 18 21 8 8 16 16 10 10 4 10 5 54 45 30 41 35 8 58 16 16 a 448 398 308 518 308 368 148 318 318 588 318 388 218 518 3358 338 0s 19S 188 44S 338 3358 448 458 458 448 588 318 338 338 578 138 218 318 318 448 8s 398 308 368 368 458 518 488 385 208 68 368 208 308 368 318 0s 3858 535 208 518 33 51 338 By igs ae N.B.—The distances in the Louisiade and New Guinea are calculated with the mer. dist. of the Sextant Rock, Cape York, assumed to be 8° 40! 50” W. of Sydney, to adapt them to the original A of the N.E. Coast of Australia. *One measurement *One measurement The mean of 4 measurements [to Observ. spot by Charts Measured to Sail Rocks, & reduced Mean of 3 measurements One measurement Mean of 2 measurements One measurement *By Capt. King’s Sextant Mean of 4 measurements Two measurements *Capt. King’s Sext. Sea horizon Repeated *By triangulation N.B.—The distances in the Louisiade and New Guinea are calculated with the mer. dist. of the Sextant Rock, Cape York, assumed to be 8° 40’ 50” W. of Sydney, to adapt them to the original A of the N.E. Coast of Australia. *From Chart 335 PP PPP PP PPP PPP PP b> PP >>> >> Tue following is a summary of the results obtained from the Chronometric measurements of H. M.S. “ Rattlesnake”? and “ Bramble,” giving a proportionate value to each, according to the number of T. K.’s employed. M M 2 ee E '. ov ich, ei Sater Ee eating | the Observed Tnstrumes t | Initials of SPOT OF OBSERVATION. | from Fort | % | longitude of | Tatitude. observe | Observers of Macquarie, 2 Fort Macquarie Latitude. Latitude, « Sydney. a to be : Ro] 151° 14’ 47”E, Bt sou Que ode cad : Parramatta Observatory 013 13 | W]151 i 34] 33 48 50S} From | Naut. Alm Eden Jetty, Twofold Bay .| 117 53] W 1/149 56 54E|37 4 20S] Circle. 0. 8. Gabo Island ‘ ‘ . 1 18 35 | W | 149 56 12E None observed. Lighthouse, Pt. Gellibrand, | 6 19 29 | W | 144 55 18B | 387 52 31S] Az. & Alt.| 0.8. Pt. Philip Lighthouse, Kent's Group 3 55 11 | W | 147 19 36E | 39 28 58S) Sext. Cc. B. Y. 4 Rossbank Observatory, Ho- | 3 52 39 | W | 147 22 8E | 42 52 108) Circle and] 0.8. © barton Az. Alt. Tahlee H., Port Stephens 047 15/ E/}152 2 2E/82 40 188 Capt. King N. pt. of Lagoon Bay, Port | 4 24 56 | W | 146 49 51E None Dalrymple observed. North Solitary Island . 21035 | B | 153 25 2028/2956 8S] Sext, | CBY. Moreton I. watering place,| 2 9 28] E |153 24 15E|27 5 448 /Seahor.Cir.) 0. S. N.W. end & Az, Alt, Obs. spot, W. side Facing I. | 0 8 36] E | 151 23 23E | 23 51 458/ Az. & Alt, |0.8.,C.B.Y. Port Curtis and Sext. | and J. D. Port Molle, near Sandy Bay, | 2 21 53 | W | 148 52 54E | 20 19 48S/ Az, alt. 0.8. E. side of harbour a Cape Upstart, Sandy Bay | 3 27 37 | W | 147 47 10H |19 42 38) Az. alt. 0.8 near Cape Mound Islet, Rockingham B. | 5 8 27 | W146 11 20E/17 55 258] Circle. 0.8. Fitzroy I. sandy beach, W. | 5 13 27 | W146 1 20H/16 55 57S] Circle. 0.5. side East Hope I., beach on W. | 5 44 52 | W |145 29 55E | 15 43 458] Circle. 0. 8. side Lizard I. sandy beach, W. | 5 44 45 | W | 145 30 2E/14 39 568] Circle. 0.8. side West Pipon I., §.W. side 6 40 59 | W | 144 83 48/14 7 98] Circle. 0.58. C. reef dry sand, off Resto- | 7 42 24| W | 143 32 23E | 12 34 50S] Az Alt. | W.H.0. ration I. Sextant Rock, Evans’ Bay, | 8 41 33 | W | 142 33 14H | 10 41 31S) Az. Alt. | W.H.O. C. York Port Essington, Government | 19 5 23 | W {182 9 24H ]11 22 28) Az. Alt. | W.H.0. | House Booby Island. ‘ - | 919 51 | W] 141 54 56E | 10 35 568 Au Bramble Cay. 2 .| 7 2123] W | 148 538 24E |} 9 8 38S] Az. Alt. | W.H.O, Pariwara I. (N. side) Red-| 5 925] W146 5 22H] 9 14 258] Az. Alt. | W. HO. sear Ba: : Middle Duchateau Island 1 7 50| E | 152 22 37E| 11 16 518 Circle. 0.8. No.1 Obs. reef, Coralhaven, | 2 4 48] E | 153 19 35E}11 18 39S] Circle. 0. 8. Louisiade Kairaro I., Bay of Islands, | 22 54 40} E {174 9 27E|35 16 OS Sext. W. 4H. 0. New Zealand Chaplain’s House, Stanley, |150 57 49 | E | 57 47 24W}| 51 41 19S] Az. Alt. | W.H O. E, Falkland iby Wicrosonre Initials: O.S8.—Captain Owen Stanley. J. D.—Lieut. J. Dayman. C. B. ¥.—Lieut. C. B. Yule, W. H. 0.—-Mr. Obree. APPENDIX. 337 No. III. Observations of the mean magnetic inclination made on shore in the Voyage of H.M.S. Rattlesnake, by Lieut. Joseph Day- man, R.N. Instruments employed: Robinson's 6-inch Inclinometer ; Fox's Dipping Apparatus. The following tables contain the absolute determinations of the magnetic inclination and declination made in the Voyage of H.M.S. Rattlesnake on shore. A very large series made almost daily at sea with Fox’s instrument and the Azimuth Compass require several corrections before they are fit for publication. Madeira. In Mr. Veitch’s verandah, Funchal, by Robinson’s Needle, A. . 3 : ‘ . 59°47 N Ditto ditto, by Fox’s Needle, A 60 40 2N On the summit of the Pico dos Bodes, ditto - 64 105N Ther. 64. Ditto angle of deflection, 2 grains ditto . 33:13 6 Ther. 59. Funchal ditto, 2 grains 38 8 8 Rat Island, Rio de Janeiro. By Robinson’s Needle, A. 1 F . » 1215138 Ditto A. 2 : » 121918 Mean 121718 Simon’s Bay, Cape of Good Hope. In the dockyard near the Observation spot of Ere- bus and Terror, by Fox’s Needle A, with index error applied 53 40 058 Tonnelier’s Island, Port Louis, Mauritius. By Robinson’s Needle, A 1 ‘ : . 534898 Ditto A2 2 - . 53 48 8S Mean 53 48 8S VOL, I. Digitized by Microsoft® 338 APPENDIX. Hobarton, Van Diemen’s Land. At the Magnetic Observatory, Ross bank, by Robinson’s Needle, A 1 A : Ditto A2 Mean Port Jackson. On Garden Island, by Robinson’s Needle, A 1 Ditto ditto A 2 Mean Port Curtis, N.E. Coast of Australia. On Facing Island, by Robinson’s Needle, A 1 Ditto A2 Mean No. 1. Percy Island. In a sandy Bay, on North side of Island, by Robinson’s Needle, A 1 Ditto A2 Mean Keppel Island. In a small Bay, on North side, by Robinson’s Needle, A 1 Ditto ditto Mean Moreton Bay. Near the N.W. end of Moreton Island, by Robin- son’s Needle, A 1 Ditto A2 Mean Digitized by Microsoft® 62 46 58 70° 36.08 70 41 58 70 3878 62 45 38 62 4778 51 28 9S 51 30 98 51 29 98 49 355 49 028 49 188 50 46 68 50 49 58 50 48 0S 55 2018 55 1358 55 16 8S APPENDIX. Port Phillip. Near Capt. Bunbury’s House, Williamstown, by Robinson’s Needle, A 1 ; Ditto A2 Mean Port Dalrymple, V. D. Land. In Lagoon Bay, by Robinson’s Needle, A 1 Ditto A2 Mean Swan Island, Banks’ Strait. Near the Lighthouse, by Fox’s Needle B, with index error applied : ‘ Port Jackson. On Garden Island, by Robinson’s Needle A 1 Ditto ditto A2 April 1848 Mean 339 67°12..78 67 16758 67 1478 69 2908 69 19 5S 69 24 28 68 5615 62 48 98 62 39 18 62 44 08 Rockingham Bay, N.E. Coast of Australia. On Mound Islet, by Robinson’s Needle A 1 Ditto ditto A2 Mean No. 2. Barnard Island. Onthe West Point of the Island, with Fox’s Needle C (index error applied) Low Isles, Trinity Bay. On the North Point of North Low Islet, Fox’s Needle C (index error applied) : : Lizard Island. On the West side of the Island, by Robinson’s Needle A 1 ‘5 5 ‘ Ditto A2 Mean to Digitized by Microsoft® 4415 58 4410 68 4413.08 44 88S 42 2245S 39 32 98 39 31 88 39 32 38 eT 340 APPENDIX. No. 5. Claremont Isle. On the North side of the Island, by Robinson’s Needle A 1 : - 380:1179.8_ Cape York. In Evans Bay, by Robinson’s Needle A 1 . 331028 Ditto by Fox’s Needle C, corrected for index error . - ‘ . . 33 845 33 938 Port Essington. In Proa Bay, 1 mile west of Settlement, by Fox’s Needle C (with error applied) : - 851468 On board the ship, at anchor at Port Essington, same needle corrected for local attraction and index error : ‘ . . 834808 Note.—The observations on board the ship at this station are the nearest to the truth, there being much iron-stone strewed over the country about the observation spot on shore. Port Jackson. Garden Island, by Robinson’s Needle A 1, March 1849 3 : : ‘ . 62 4428 Moreton Bay. eae On the N.W. side of Moreton Island, by Robinson’s Needle A 1 a : is . 552138 Coral Haven, Louisiade Archipelago. On a patch of Coral near Pig Island, by Robinson’s Needle A 1 . r é . 32 3528 Ditto by Fox’s Needle, index error applied ; 3 - 382 3308 Mean 32 34 18 Duchdteau Islands, Louisiade Archipelago. On the Middle Island, by Robinson’s Needle Al 32 48 68S Ditto Fox’s Needle B (with index error applied) ‘ : . 325648 Mean 32 52 58S — Digitized by Microsoft® APPENDIX. Cape York. In Evans Bay, by Robinson’s Needle A 1 . 341 330 22'.4 8 Bramble Cay, South Coast of New Guinea. By Fox’s Needle B, with index errror applied Garden Island, Port Jackson. By Fox’s Needle A, corrected for index error, &e. Ditto B ditto Ditto Cc ditto Bay of Islands, New Zealand. Near Kororareka Bay, by Fox’s Needle A, corrected for index error ‘5 : a Ditto B Ditto C Mean East Falkland Island. Near the Chaplain’s house at Stanley, by Fox’s Needle A, corrected for index error . B Ditto § 3 Cc Ditto ‘ 5 Mean At the Observation spot of the Erebus and Terror near the old settlement, Berkeley Sound, by Fox’s Needle B, corrected for index error Fayal, Azores. In the Consul’s garden, Horta, by Fox’s Needle B, corrected for index error A ‘ Ditto ditto A Mean Digitized by Microsoft® 31 49 28 62 4498 62 4495 62 44 98 —————S— 68 28 18 68 59 37 59 44 59 28 59 36 68 38 858 52 19 51 43 50 58 51 40 68 51 25 68 66 58 4N 67 26 9N 67 12 6N 342 APPENDIX. The following absolute determinations of the magnetic declina- tion were made with a declinometer, and A.M. and P.M. azimuths of the sun: William Town, Port Phillip y . 9°910'52"E Lagoon Bay, Port Dalrymple, V.D. Land . 10 29 16 E Garden Island, Port Jackson, March and April, 1848 3 . ‘ : . 9 643E Mound Islet, Rockingham Bay, N.E. Coast of Australia : 5 5 - 619 18 FE Lizard Island 3 3 ditto . 546 7E Evans Bay, Cape York, North Coast of Aus- tralia ‘ é 5 . . 442 31E Garden Island, Port Jackson, March and April, 1849 : : ; 3 -10 9 10E Moreton Island, East Coast of Australia . 9 2114E Ccral Haven, Louisiade Archipelago . 744175 Duchateau Isles ditto : - 714 5E Bramble Cay, S.E. Coast of New Guinea . 4 22 37E Kororareka Bay, Bay of Islands, New Zealand 13 27 20 E Stanley, East Falkland Island, July 1850 .16 54 46E Digitized by Microsoft® Digitized by Microsoft® g Gc qi Catenicella Calpidium | D.cornulata Fig 43 Lunulites. = Digitized by Microsoft® T &W Boone, Pubhshers, London. 1651 Falimardal h Walton, Uith- APPENDIX. 343 No. IV. An Account or tue Poryzoa, anp SertuLartan Zoo- PHYTES, collected in the Voyage of the Rattlesnake, on the Coasts of Australia and the Louisiade Archipelago, §c. By Gzorce Buss, F.R.S. Tuts collection includes about eighty-five species, dis- tributed in twenty-nine genera, and may perhaps be regarded as the largest and most interesting of the kind ever brought to this country. When it is stated that seventy-eight of the species are new or undescribed, the number will appear extraordinarily great, but when the comparatively neglected state of exotic Zoophytology is considered the wonder will be much diminished, and still further, as it may safely be assumed, that many of the species here given as new have been previously noticed, though so insufficiently described, as in the absence of figures not to admit of correct identifi- cation. Making, however, a considerable deduction on this account, the remainder will still stamp the present collec- tion with extreme value. As an instance, may be cited the genus Catenicella, of which this collection affords about fifteen species, and of which certainly not more than three have been previously noticed in any way, and of these no sufficient descriptions or figures are extant by which even that small number could be identified. The explanation of this is perhaps to be sought in the circumstance that the species of Catenicella are deep sea forms, and only to be obtained by dredging in decp water—very few being apparently found on the shores. Digitized by Microsoft® 344 APPENDIX. Though the number of new or supposed new species is so great, the number of new genera is comparatively small, not amounting to more than four. It has, however, been found necessary considerably to modify the characters of several other established genera, so as to include new species, With respect to the geographical distribution of the species, my means of comparison have been pretty exten- sive. They have been derived from the examination of Mr. Darwin’s and Dr. Hooker’s collections, placed at my disposal by the kind liberality of Mr. Darwin,—a con- siderable collection of South African species mainly pro- cured from Mr. Bowerbank—and from the Collection of British and exotic Zoophytes in the British Museum, for the freest opportunities of examining which I have to thank Mr. Gray. From these various sources, and others of less account, I have been able to examine species from avery considerable extent of the earth’s surface—more especially in the Southern hemisphere, and to arrive perhaps at as fair a view of the geographical distribution of species as the present imperfect state of Zoophytology will allow. POLY ZOA. The number of species of Polyzoa is about fifty-four— belonging to twenty-four genera. Of these genera it is believed that four will be found to be new, or hitherto undescribed, and it has been deemed requisite to modify the characters of several others upon the more extended survey of species afforded mainly by the present collection. The new genera here instituted are: Calpidium Didymia Diachoris Dimetopia Digitized by Microsoft® APPENDIX. 345 And the genera whose characters it has been found requi- site to modify are: Catenicella Canda Salicornaria Emma Cellularia Acamarchis Scrupocellaria Caberea. Bicellaria Of the twenty-four genera, three, or perhaps four, appear to be peculiar to the Australian seas. These are : Calpidium Didymia Canda ? Dimetopia. All the rest, excepting two, Emma and Diachoris, appear to be distributed over the globe in both hemispheres. The above two are perhaps limited to the southern. Of the fifty-three species, about thirty-three seem to be new, or to have been so imperfectly described as not to admit of precise identification, and five others have syno- nyms more or less doubtful applied to them. Six species only are common to the seas of Europe, viz. : Tubulipora phalangea? Anguinaria spatulata Crisia denticulata Acamarchis neritina Eucratea chelata Retepora cellulosa. Sixteen others are met with in other parts of the Southern hemisphere, viz. : Catenicella elegans? Catenicella cribraria - ventricosa ————-- cornuta Eschara lichenoides, oc- Cellularia monotrypa curring in Algoa Bay ; Bicellaria tuba, in New Caberea Zelanica Zealand ; and Acamarchis tridentata, m Emma crystallina Algoa Bayand New Zealand; - tricellata, in New Caberea lata Zealand and Campbell’s Is- Catenicellu hastata land. Thus of the fifty-four species, about thirty-four would Digitized by Microsoft® 346 P APPENDIX. seem to be peculiar to the Australian seas. Ten of these belong to the genus Catenicella, and one to the closely- allied Calpidium, three to Didymia and Dimetopia, and one to Diachoris, of which genus two other species are found in the Straits of Magellan. The method according to which the Polyzoa are ar- ranged, is, in the primary divisions at least, pretty nearly identical with that indicated in the Synopsis of the Fami- lies and Genera of Polyzoa Infundibulata, given in Dr. Johnston’s “ British Zoophytes.”* A few words, however, will be necessary to explain more particularly the subsequent subdivisions here adopted. The order, Polyzoa infundibulata, is divided into three suborders, coinciding very nearly with the Tubuliporina, Celleporina, and Vesicularina of the work above referred to, but as the characters of these suborders are derived from the conformation of the opening of the cell, I have thought it more convenient to name them accordingly. The first suborder, having a round, simple opening to the cell, is here termed the Cyctostomata; the second, with the opening of the cell filled up by a usually thin, mem- branous or calcareous velum, and with a crescentic mouth provided with a moveable lip, the CurzLostomata; and the third suborder, which might perhaps include the Hal- cyonellea of Ehrenberg, as well as the Vesiculariade, dis- tinguished by the existence of a more or less well-marked fringe of setze (sometimes only rudimentary) around the opening of the cell when the animal is protruded, the CTENOSTOMATA. The following synoptical arrangement—which it must be remarked, includes only the genera occurring in the Rattlesnake collection—will serve to indicate the subse- quent divisions. * Vol. 1, p. 263, 2nd Edit. Digitized by Microsoft® APPENDIX. 347 Synoptical Arrangement of the Polyzoa included in the Rattlesnake Collection. Suborder I. CYCLOSTOMATA (Tubuliporina). Fam. 1. TusuLrroripaz. Gen. 1. Tubulipora. Sp. 1. J. phalangea? 2. Pustulipora. 2. P. australis, n. sp. 3. Idmonea. 3. I. radians. Fam. 2. CristapZ. 4, Crisia. 4. C. denticulata. 5. C. acropora, n. sp. Suborder II. CHETLOSTOMATA (Celleporina). §. 1. UNISERIALARIA. Fam. 1. CarenicELLipe. 5. Catenicella. a. fenestrate. 6. C. hastata, n. sp.? 7. C. amphora, n. sp. 8. C. margaritacea, n.sp. 9. C. ventricosa, n. sp. 10. C. plagiostoma, n. sp. ll. C. lorica, n. sp. 12. €. cribaria, n. sp. b. vittatee. 13. C. formosa, n. sp. 14. C. gibbosa, n. sp. 15. C. elegans, un. sp. 16. C. cornuta, 0. sp. 17. ©. wmbonata, un. sp. Digitized by Microsoft® 348 APPENDIX. c. inermes. 18. C. carinata, n. sp. 6. Calpidium, n. g. 19. C. ornatum, n. sp. Fam. 2. Eucratrap&. 7. Eucratea. 20. £. chelatu. 8. Anguinaria. 21. A. spatulata. § 2. MULTISERIALARIA. 1. Articulata. a. internodes elongated, multicellular. Fam. 1. SaLIcoRNARIAD#. 9. Salicornaria. 22. S. punctata, n. sp.? 23. S. bicornis, n. sp. 24. S. dichotoma, n. sp. 25. S. marginata, n. sp. Fam. 2. CELLULARIADA. 10. Cellularia. 26. C. monotrypa, un. sp. 11. Serupocellaria. 27. S. cervicornis, n. sp. 28. S. diadema, n. sp. 29. S. cyclostoma, n. sp. 30. S. ferox, n. sp. 12. Canda. 31. C. arachnoides. &. imternodes short, 2—4 celled. 13. Emma. 32. E. crystallina. 33. E. tricellata, n. sp. 2. Inarticulata. Fam. 3. BicELLartiab.£. 14. Bicellaria. Digitized by Microsoft® APPENDIX. 349 34. 2B. tuba, n. sp. 35. B. gracilis, n. sp. 36. B. grandis, n. sp. 37. B. flevilis, n. sp. 15. Acamarchis. 38. A. neritina. 39. A. tridentata. Fam. 4. Caprrrapa. 16. Caberea. 40. C. rudis, n. sp. 41. C. Zelanica. 42. C. lata, u. sp.? Fam. 5. Fiusrrape. 17. Flustra. 43. F. pyriformis ? 44, F. denticulata, un. sp. 18. Retepora. 45. R. cornea, n. sp.? 46. R. cellulosa. 47. R. ctenostoma, n. sp. 19. Eschara. 48. E. lichenoides. 20. Diachoris, n. g. 49. D. Crotali, n. sp. Fam. 6. CeLLeporipz. 21. Cellepora. 50. C. bilabiata, n. sp.? Fam. 7. GEMELLARIADE. 22. Didymia, n. g. 51. D. simplex, n. sp. 23. Dimetopia, n. g. 52. D. spicata, n. sp. 53. D. cornuta, n. sp. Suborder III. CTENOSTOMATA. (Vesicularina, &c.) Fam. 1. VESICULARIADE. 24. Amathia. 54. A. biseriata. Digitized by Microsoft® 350 APPENDIX. Suborder 1. CYCLOSTOMATA. Fam. 1. TUBULIPORIDA. 1. Tusuipora, Lamarck. 1. T. phalangea, Couch. Hab.—Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. A small, imperfect specimen, which may be referred to the variety noticed in “ British Zoophytes,’” and figured Pl. 46, fig. 3, 4. 2. Pusruxrpora, Blainville. 1. P. australis, n. sp. P. deflera? Couch. Branched dichotomously; branches short, incrassated, truncate. Cells wholly immersed, or about half free, numerous ; surface minutely papillose, summits of papillz of a dark brown or black colour. Hab.—Bass Strait, 45 fathoms; and elsewhere in the Australian seas. About half an inch high. The stem becomes thicker as it ascends, and divides into two equal short branches, each of which again subdivides into two short truncate branches, in a plane at right angles to the primary divi- sion. The cells in the upper part of the stem appear free for nearly half their length, and are gently curved out- wards. The surface is covered with pretty regularly and quincuncially arranged minute papille, the apex of each of which is flattened or rounded, and of a dark brown or black colour. The mode of subdivision of the polyzoary, and the truncated ends of the branches, and the more numerous cells, suffice to distinguish this species from P. proboscidea. The cells in the figure of P. deflexa appear to be much more slender in proportion, and the branches in that species are not truncated, but attenuated at the extremity. Digitized by Microsoft® APPENDIX. 351 3. IpmMonga, Lamourour. 1. L. radians, M. Edwards. Ann. de Se. N. tom. 9, p. 25, Pl. 12, fig. 4. Retepora radians, Lamarck. Hab.—Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. One minute specimen, but very perfect, has been ex- amined; but it is undoubtedly the one described and figured by M. Edwards, and noticed by Lamarck as inhabiting the seas of New Holland. M. Edwards’ doubt therefore as to this locality is now removed. Fam. 2. CRISIADA. 4. Crista, Lamourour. 1. C. denticulata, Fleming. Hab.—Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. Parasitic upon a species of Salicornaria. The only difference, if there be any, between this form and the British, consists in the rather greater projection or freedom of the extremities of the cells, which are curved towards the front. 2. C. acropora, n. sp. Cells 9 to 13 in each internode ; lateral branches given off between the Ist and 2nd, or between the 2nd and 3rd cells above a joint. A small conical tooth, sometimes bifid, above and behind the mouth. Hab.—Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. A small parasitic species, distinguished from C. denti- culata, which it much resembles, by the less average number of cells in each internode, and the less number intervening between the origin of a branch and the joint below it, and by the small conical tooth or tubercle above and behind, or to the outer side of the mouth. Digitized by Microsoft® 352 APPENDIX. Suborder IT. CHEILOSTOMATA. § 1. Uniserialaria. Cells disposed in a simple series. Fam. 1. CATENICELLID 4. Cells connected by flexible joints. 5. CATENICELLA, M. Edwards, (Lamarck, An. s. Vert. t. ii, p. 181.) Cells arising one from the upper and back part of ano- ther by a short corneous tube, and disposed in a linear series, all facing the same way, and forming dichotomously divided branches of a phytoid polyzoary; cells geminate at the bifurcation of the branches; each cell furnished with two lateral processes usually supporting an avicularium. Ovicells either subglobose and terminal, or galeriform and placed below the mouth of a cell in front. This interesting and important genus may be regarded as characteristic, not only of the present collection, but perhaps also of the Australian seas, as far as the Polyzoa are con- cerned. Thirteen species are here described, and as it has been found extremely difficult in most cases to identify any of them with the very few hitherto noticed forms, the synonyms given must be regarded as at least extremely doubtful. Each cell arises from the upper and back part of another, with the intervention of a short corneous tube which is prolonged from the interior of one cell to that of the one above. The cell is furnished on each side at the top with an usually well-developed avicularium, in some species of huge size, and in some very minute, or entirely aborted. This avicularian process in most cases supports above a hollow process, which is sometimes closed and more or less elon- gated, constituting a conical or acerose spine, sometimes open above and assuming the form of a shallow cup or re- ceptacle. In some species both modifications of this portion of the lateral process are met with in the same specimen. This form of spine or cup—as the case may Digitized by Microsoft® APPENDIX. 353 be, is always distinctly separated by a septum from the cavity of the avicularium itself. Below the avicularium there is also in many cases a third distinct cavity which is usually widely open, the opening being covered in very frequently by a convex transparent membrane, and its bot- tom apparently perforated by several minute foramina— from this part of the lateral process there is in many spe- cles a prominent ala or keel prolonged to the bottom of the cell—which ala not unfrequently divides into two branches, which, again coalescing at the bottom of the cell, circumscribe a more or less oval space, the bottom of which is also perforated by minute foramina or apparent foramina, and which is often covered over by a transparent convex membrane. This membrane, however, as well as that which covers in thesubavicularian space, is more usually broken off and wanting. The inferior oval space above described is here termed the lateral area, and it is employed in the specific charac- ters. It would thus be correct to say—that each cell is furnished with two lateral processes, each of which in the fully developed state consists of three distinct compart- ments,—one superior, acup or spine: amiddle one, which is the avicularium: and an inferior; and it would appear that one or more of these elementary compartments of the lateral process may be more developed than the next, or sometimes entirely aborted. The mouth of the cell is situated at the upper part in front, and is of the same con- formation as in the rest of the Cheilostomatous sub-order, An important generic character consists in the gemination of the cell at each bifurcation.* These characters are common to all the species included in the genus, which furthermore admits of being subdivided into two extremely natural sections or subgenera, (or per- haps into three). These subdivisions are named respec» tively the “ fenestrate,” and the “ vittate.” * Tab. I. fig. J, 2. VOL. I. 2A Digitized by Microsoft® 354 APPENDIX. In the fenestrate division, in the whole of which the cells are of larger size and stronger than in the other, the wall of the cell appears to be constituted of at least two distinct lamine. The external lamina, on the front of the cell, is perforated by a certain number of holes, is wanting rather in a certain number of spaces, for which spaces the term “ fenestre’”’ is employed. These apparent openings do not, therefore, penetrate into the cavity of the cell. But besides the fenestre, there is, in some cases, a small central opening which does penetrate through the wall. In most cases the fenestre are arranged in a crescentic, or rather horse-shoe shaped line, indicative, as it were, of the limits of aregular oval space, in the front wall of the cell, the upper part of which oval would be formed by the mouth, and the remainder filled up by the deposition of cal- careous matter, as happens for instance in the older cells towards the bottom of the polyzoary in certain Cellula- rie, &e. A further characteristic of the fenestrate Catenicellz is the terminal position of the ovicells. These organs are clearly transformed cells, or cells dilated to considerably more than their natural bulk, and assuming a subglobose form. And what is worthy of remark, these terminal ovicells always have a sessile avicularium on the summit. In the “ Vittate’’ the cell is smaller, and usually more delicate and transparent. They probably want the outer lamina, or have it very thin, and consequently present no fenestrate spaces, and the front of the cell is beset (sometimes very sparingly) with more or less prominent, minute, acuminate “papille.”’ On each side, sometimes on the anterior aspect, sometimes quite laterally, is a narrow elongated band or “ vitta,’’ as it is here designated, from which the distinctive sectional appellation is derived. This band or stripe varies in width and proportionate length and position in different species ; it is slightly ele- vated, and marked with larger, or small circular discoid, or Digitized by Microsoft® APPENDIX. 355 acuminated eminences. This subdivision is further dis- tinguished by the situation of the ovicells, which are not terminal, but occur at irregular intervals on cells in the course of the series. They are of the same galeate form as in many others of the Escharine, but are not as in them placed above the mouth of the cell, but below it in front: and in all cases the shape of the ovicell-bearing cell is much altered from the rest, and in all the vittate species the cell upon which the ovicell is produced arises from its predecessor, not with the intervention of a short tube, but is immediately sessile upon it, by a broad hase. a. Fenestrate. Cells large, fenestrate in front ; ovicells terminal. 1. CG. hastata, n. sp. ? C’. bicuspis? Gray. Dieffenbach’s New Zealand, Vol. ii. p. 293. Fenestre, 7—9, disposed in a crescent, and with elon- gated fissures radiating towards them from the median line. Avicularia supporting a large pyramidal pointed hollow process, compressed, and perforated before and behind by five or six small circular pores. Hab.—Bass Strait, 45 fathoms, dead shells. Of a yellowish white colour, sometimes reddish. Forms fine bushy tufts, with long wavy branches, arising from a short common stem, and it attains a height of five or six inches. It appears sometimes to be parasitic upon other polyzoa, and is then much smaller. Its peculiar charac- teristics are the perforated and striated scutiform area on the front of the cell and the perforated, or apparently perforated pyramidal lateral processes above each avicu- larium ; these processes are much developed, and give the cell the form of a broad inverted shear-head. It seems to be an abundant species in Bass’ Strait, and it occurs also in New Zealand. (Dr. Hooker’s Collection.) 2 a2 Digitized by Microsoft® 356 APPENDIX. 2. C. amphora, un. sp. Cellaria catenulata ? var. B. Lamarck. Anim. sans Vert. Vol. ii. p. 180, (2nd ed.). Cells oval, sides rendered straight upwards by the broad avicularia which are prolonged upwards into an acute spinous angle, and support a shallow cup. Front of cell with nine pyriform fenestra, with fissures proceeding from their pointed ends towards an oval central perfora- tion. An elevated band, extending from the sides of the mouth to the upper angular processes of the avicularia. An elevated flattened band along the middle of the back, which at the top sends off a narrower lateral band to each avicularian spine. Hab.—Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. A fine species of a bright reddish brown, and in the younger cells very transparent. Forms small, regularly branched bushes, four to six inches high and wide. It is peculiar by its extremely regular vase-like form of cell, which is given by the continuation upwards of the broad avicularia in nearly a straight line, and their prolongation into a sharp angular spine, on the inner side of which is a shallow cube-like cavity, whose sides are usually more horny than calcareous. The number of fenestre appears to be very constant. The length of the branches before their dividing, and their straightness, together with the colour of this species, render it not improbable that it is the form intended by Lamarck, (1. c.). 3. C. margaritacea, n. sp. Cellaria vesiculosa ? Lamarck. Cells oval or sub-globular, much compressed ; avicularia short and broad, supportmg a deep cup-like cavity. Fenestre 5, large. Lower margin of mouth notched in the middle; back of cell minutely sulcated; sulci short, interrupted, and irregular. A small lateral “ area.” Digitized by Microsoft® APPENDIX. 357 Hab.—Swan Island, Banks Strait. A very beautiful species, the branches resembling strings of minute pearls. The pearly lustre (in the dry state) owing without doubt to the minute sulci on the backs of the cells. These sulci are not, however, consequent upon the drying, because they are equally apparent and constant when the specimen has been immersed in fluid. The species may almost at once be distinguished by the notch in the lower margin of the mouth, which notch repre- sents the central suboval opening present in some other species. 4. C. ventricosa, n. sp. Tab. i. fig. 1. Cells oval, compressed, rather wide below; avicularia wide, supporting sometimes a cup-like cavity, sometimes a closed broad conical spine. The prehensile part of the avicularium itself small, seated in a deep notch below the acuminate summit; lateral area large and well defined. Fenestre 7, with fissures radiating to a rounded central opening. Anterior surface of cell studded with minute acuminate papille; posterior surface smooth, sometimes spotted. Hab.—Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. Colour dirty white or brown. Habit stiff, stem strong, straight, branches short and crowded—probably attains a height of four or five inches. The only other species with which it can be confounded is C. amphora, from which it differs in the greater size and more irregular form of the lateral processes, in the pre- sence of the minute papille on the surface, and in the absence of the narrow longitudinal band on the back ; instead of which the older cells in C. ventricosa exhibit a sort of broad scutum, almost covering the back of the cell and sending off two lateral bands on the sides of the cell, one passing below the avicularium and above the lateral area, and the other towards the acuminated apex of the avicularium. It also wants the raised bands which inC., Digitized by Microsoft® 358 APPENDIX. amphora pass from the sides of the mouth to the apex of the avicularium in front. One large specimen presents a variety worthy of note—in this the backs of all the cells, except one here and there, exhibit (internally ?) numerous irregular-sized leopard-like spots. 5. C. plagiostoma, n. sp. Cells short-ovoid ; avicularia very large and long, ascend- ing from near the bottom of the cell into an acute spinous point, and supporting a deep cupped cavity ; mouth placed obliquely ; front of cell divided into fine large subtri- angular fenestree by four broad bands. Back of cell with a broad central band and two narrower bands branching from it on each side; surface of spaces left uncovered by the bands on the back beset with scattered, long setose spines. Hab.—Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. Colour brownish white; habit stiff, branches short. This species is at once recognisable by the peculiar oblique position of the mouth—the enormously developed avicula- rium usually only on one side of the cell, and by the sculpture of the cell—which appears as if it were swathed with broad tapes or bands. The wide spaces left between the bands in front clearly represent the true nature of the fenestre of other species. It is the only species furnished with elongated setose spines. 6. C. lorica, n. sp. Cellaria catenulata? Lamarck. Cells elongated rhomboidal, truncated at each end. Fenestre three, large, the lowest the largest, arranged in a triangle. Mouth very large; avicularia wide and strong; two lateral areze on each side, well developed; surface in front with a few indistinct circular spots around the fenes- tre, and behind marked with faint longitudinal strie. Hab.—Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. Digitized by Microsoft® APPENDIX. 359 Colour white, transparent. A fine widely branching species, in which the catenulate aspect is more evident to the eye than in almost any other. It is at once recognisa- ble by the rhomboidal scutate form of the cell viewed anteriorly, and, when the back is also viewed, the resem- blance of the two aspects to the back, and breast-plates of a coat of mail, is very striking. The structure of the lateral processes is more distinctly to be made out in this species than in any other. Each lateral process consists, 1st, ofa deep cuplike cavity above ; 2nd, a middle compartment, the avicularium; and 3rd, a third loculament below the avicularium, the wide opening of which is covered in by a convex transparent membrane. The bottom of this locul- ament appears to be perforated, and it is to be noticed also that there is a small central perforation in the septum separating it from the cavity of the avicularium. Towards the bottom of the cell, on each side, is a well developed lateral area of exactly the same conformation as the sub- avicularian loculament, and like it covered in by a convex transparent membrane. It might be supposed that these cavities were for the purpose of containing air, in order to render the otherwise heavy branches of the polyzoary buoyant. They, at all events, appear to be perfectly empty. 7. C. cribraria, n. sp. Cells sub-globular, compressed, more or less alate. Avicularia large, without any superior appendage, and prolonged downwards into elevated lateral ale. Anterior surface with numerous small round fenestre, placed at equal distances apart, and evenly distributed over the sur- face, the circumferential fenestrae beimg larger than the rest. A minute central perforation of a crescentic form, the lower lip projecting, and the upper lip, lingulate in the middle, falling behind the lower. Hab.—Bass Strait? This species also occurs in New Zealand. Digitized by Microsoft® 360 . APPENDIX. Colour brown, loosely branched and several inches high. Distinguished readily by the cribriform aspect of the front of the cell, and by the curiously formed central orifice, and by the absence of any superior appendage to the avicularium. b. Vittate. Cells furnished with a narrow elongated band or vitta on each side, without fenestre. Ovicells not terminal, galeriform. 8. C. formosa, n. sp. Cells oval; avicularia large, flat, or cupped above. Vittz elliptical, rather anterior. Hab.—Swan Island, Banks Strait. Colour light plumbeous. Parasitic upon C. margaritacea. The cells are the largest of any in the Vittate division, and very regular and uniform in size and outline. The more distinctive characters are taken from the compara- tively broad vittze, and the flat or cupped upper surface of the avicularia, which are usually continued downwards into a prominent ridge or ala. 9. C. gibbosa, n, sp. Cells pyriform, ventricose posteriorly, much attenuated at bottom. Avicularia small, placed in front close to the sides of the mouth, at the base of strong conical pomted processes which project in front, and are connected across the top of the cell by a prominent toothed ridge. Vitte long linear, entirely lateral. Hab.—Princeof Wales Channel, Torres Strait, 9 fathoms, mud. Of a dark lead colour, when dry. Forms an elegantly branched bush about two inches high. The gibbous form of the cells, and the peculiar anterior position of the avicu- laria, at the base of the projecting lateral processes, at once distinguish it from all the other vittate species. The toothed (sometimes entire) ridge extending between the two lateral processes across the top of the cell an Digitized by Microsoft® APPENDIX. 361 overlapping the mouth like a pent-house is also a very peculiar feature. 10. C. elegans, n. sp. Tab. i. fig. 2. Cells elongated ovoid ; avicularia large and projecting, without any superior appendage; vitte narrow, rather anterior. Hab.—Bass Strait, 48 fathoms. Port Dalrymple, on stones at low water. A delicate and beautiful parasitic species; the branches slender and spreading ; colour white and very transparent. Cells regular and uniform in size and shape. A very similar if not identical species occursin Algoa Bay, South Africa, the only difference between them being that the latter is rather larger and has the vittee much longer; in the Australian forms these bands do not reach above the middle of the cell, whilst in the South African they extend as high as the mouth. ll. C. cornuta. n. sp. Cells oval; avicularia in many cells wholly transformed into long pointed retrocedent spines, on one or both sides, in others into shorter spines or unaltered. Vittz linear, extremely narrow, entirely lateral, and extending the whole length of the cell from the base of the avicularium. Hab.—Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. Colour yellowish white, growth small; parasitic upon C. amphora. As some difficulty might be experienced in the discrimination of this species from C. elegans, and another South African species (not the variety of C. elegans above noticed), it is requisite to remark that the long retro- cedent spines when present are not placed upon or super- added to the avicularia, but that they seem to represent an aborted or transformed state of those organs. They vary much in length and size in different cells, and even in those of the same branch; as it frequently happens that Digitized by Microsoft® 362 APPENDIX. there is a spine, usually of diminutive size, on one side and a very large avicularium on the other, and sometimes (but rarely) an avicularium of more moderate size on both sides. But the character of the species by which it is more par- ticularly distinguished consists in the presence on a great many cells, in one part or other of the polyzoary, of the two large and strong spines projecting backwards. This retrocession of the spines is alone a sufficient character to distinguish the present species from the South African form above alluded to (C. taurina, B.) And the length and lateral position of the vittz would distinguish the unarmed cells from those of C. elegans. 12. GC’. umbonata, n. sp. Cells more or less pyriform, alate, narrow below, bulg- ing or ventricose upwards. Avicularia large and strong. Vitte strap-shaped, anterior, extending from the level of the mouth to the bottom of the cell, with elevated acumi- nate papille or short spines. A broad compressed project- ing process on the middle of the back. Hab.—Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. The cells in this species are small, inflated or ventricose, and as it were sub-globular above, becoming much at- tenuated below—but the cavity of the cell does not appear to extend into this contracted portion, in which is con- tained the connecting tube strengthened by calcareous matter—the inferior continuation of the lateral ale, which descend from the base of the avicularium. Owing to the large size of the avicularia, the upper part of the cell is much widened, and the whole acquires somewhat of a triangular form, and has a peculiar rugose aspect, derived, in part also, from the large size and elevation of the acuminated papille, not only of the vitte but on the surface of the cell itself. The central umbo or crest pos- teriorly is a marked feature. Digitized by Microsoft® APPENDIX. 363 c. Without vitte or fenestre. 13, C. carinata, n. sp. Cells oval, narrowed at both ends; lateral processes, (without avicularia?) projecting horizontally outwards from the sides of the mouth about the middle of the cell. Mouth nearly central, with a small tooth on each side, and below it a triangular space with three strong conical emi- nences. The cell which bears the ovicell geminate. Hab.—Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. This remarkable form differs so widely in many respects from any of its congeners, as almost to deserve to be considered as the type of adistinct sub-genus. The lateral processes, which may be taken to represent the perfect avicularia of the other species, are, as far as can be ascer- tained from specimens that have been dried, without a moveable mandible, and are probably really so, because there is no corresponding beak. These processes are chan- nelled in front, nearly from the base to the extremity ; they arise by a broad base on each side of the mouth, and on the front of the cell, and from the conjoined bases is continued upwards and downwards, or to the top and bottom of the cell, a prominent flattened band. The expanded bases circumscribe an oval space, nearly in the centre of the front of the cell, the upper two-thirds of which space are occupied by the circular mouth, on each side of which is a small calcareous tooth, to which appa- rently are articulated the horns of the semilunar lateral cartilage. The lower third is filled up by a yellow, horny (?) membrane, upon which are placed three conical eminences, disposed in a triangular manner. The back of the cell is very convex, and has running along the middle of it an elevated crest or keel, which is acuminate in the middle. The ovicell is situated in front of the cell below the mouth, and below it are three considerable-sized areolated spots, disposed, like the three conical spines, in a triangle. The Digitized by Microsoft® 364 APPENDIX. cells upon which the ovicells are placed are always gemi- nate, that is to say, have a smaller cell growing out from one side. 6. Carripium, n. gen. Tab. i. fig. 3—5. Char.—Cells with an avicularium on each side; with two or three distinct mouths, arisimg one from the upper part of another, in a linear series, all facing the same way, and forming dichotomously-divided branches ; cells at the bifurcations single; ovicells—? This very peculiar genus, remarkable as it is, seems hitherto to have escaped notice. It is distinguishable from Catenicella, in the first place, by the anomalous cir- cumstance that each cell is furnished with two or more, usually three, distinct keyhole-shaped mouths, and is doubtless inhabited by three distinct individuals. Whether these are separated from each other by internal partitions is unknown, but the closest examination of cells rendered transparent by means of acid fails to discover such. In cells thus prepared, there are apparent, however, three distinct masses, reaching from the bottom of the cell to each orifice, and which are probably the remains either of the body or of the retractor muscles of the animals. An- other point of difference from Catenicella is the non-gemi- nation of the cell at the dichotomy of a branch. The avicularia, moreover, do not form lateral projections, but are sessile, or imbedded, as it were, in the sides of the cell immediately below the upper angles. 1. C. ornatum, nu. sp. Tab. i. fig. 3—5. Cells triangular-urn shaped, very broad above, with a straight border, much compressed ; mouths, 2—3, keyhole shaped. Five fenestree below each mouth; numerous branching bands on the back of the cell. Hab.—Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. This curious species is the only one belonging to the genus. The cells are very large, regular, and uniform, Digitized by Microsoft® APPENDIX. 365 resembling very closely an antique sculptured umm. Colour dark brown, and the walls so thick as to be nearly opaque. The polyzoary, which appears to attain a height of four or five inches, is bipinnate (with all the branches on one plane), the branches alternate, and given off with extreme regularity. The ultimate ramules are incurved. The whole forms a very elegant object. The central stem, or series of cells, differs in no respect as regards the size or disposition of the cells composing it, from the branches. Fam. 2. EUCRATIADA. 7. Evucratea, Lamourouzx. 1. Eucratea chelata, Lamouroux. Hab.—Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. In all respects identical with the British form. It also occurs at Port Adelaide. 8. Aneuinagia. Lamarck. 1, A. spatulata, Lamarck. Zitea anguina, Lamouroux. Hab.—Bass Strait, and other localities. This species (which appears to be pretty generally dis- tributed over the globe) is identical with the European form. Itis to be remarked, however, that a second species (A. dilatata, Busk. Ann. Nat. Hist. 2nd Ser. vol. 7, p. 81, pl. 9, fig. 14) is found in Torres Strait, but which does not occur in the Rattlesnake collection. §. 2. Multiserialaria. Cells disposed alternately in a double or multiple series. 1. Articulata. Polyzoary divided into distinct inter- nodes by flexible articulations. a. Internodes elongated, or composed of numerous cells. Digitized by Microsoft® 366 APPENDIX. Fam. 1. SALICORNARIADA. Cells disposed around an ideal axis. 9. Sanicornaria, Cuvier. a. Surface divided into more or less regular hexagonal spaces by elevated ridges. 1. S. punctata. n. sp. Cellaria salicornioides? Audouin. Savigny, Egypt. Pl. 6. fig. 7. Hexagonal areas with an acute angle above and below; bottom of area pyriform, surface covered with minute transparent granulations. Mouth of cell in the upper third, with a minute tooth on each side. Hab.—Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. Off Cumberland Islands, 27 fathoms, fine grey mud. Parasitic upon Sertularians and Polyzoa; branches strag- gling of irregular lengths. 2. SS. bicornis. nu. sp. Areas with an obtuse angle above and below, sometimes rounded above ; a minute projection on each side near the top. Bottom of area long-oval, smooth, sometimes with a perforation above the mouth. Mouth with a minute tooth on each side. Hab.—Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. Parasitic. Branches shorter and thicker than in the pre- ceding species. In the shape of the area they are very much alike, but in S. bicornis, in some cells, and occa- sionally throughout the greater part of the imternode, the area differs widely from the more usual form. It is much expanded, and presents a wide arch above. In this case there is usually a considerable-sized perforation above the mouth of the cell, as occurs not unfrequently also in S. Digitized by Microsoft® APPENDIX. 367 farciminoides in the younger cells, and which opening is probably normal, until it becomes filled up by the gradual deposition of calcareous matter. What more especially distinguishes the present from the preceding species are the minute projections on either side at the two upper lateral angles of the hexagonal area, and the smoothness of the surface of the cell. They are both perfectly distinct from S. farciminoides. b. Surface not divided into distinct areas by raised ridges. 3. SS. dichotoma. n. sp. Mouth of cell elliptical, occupying two-thirds of its length. Two small perforations on each side immediately above the mouth, protected by a convex transparent hood, which has a rounded opening on its under surface. Hab.—Prince of Wales Channel, Torres Strait, nine fathoms. Forms small crowded tufts from one to two or three inches high; branches very regularly dichotomous. 4. S. marginata. n. sp. Cell circumscribed by an acute raised border; opening oval, rather more than half the length of the cell. Cell attenuated below the opening. Hab.—Prince of Wales Channel, Torres Strait, nine fathoms. : A small broken fragment only preserved ; parasitic upon Sertularia mutulata, so that its habit cannot be satis- factorily determined. It is of a greenish colour, but this may be adventitious, although general and uniform throughout the specimen. This species differs from the above in being much larger, and in wanting the two per- forations on each side above the mouth—in the less comparative size of the opening of the cell, and in the Digitized by Microsoft® 368 APPENDIX. remarkable elevation of the sharp margin surrounding the upper half of the cell. In the looser aggregation, and in the form of the cells, it shews the transition from Salicor- naria to Cellularia. Fam. 2. CELLULARIADZ. Cells disposed in the same plane. 10. Crtiuraria, Pallas. Char. (B.) Cells bi-triserial, oblong* or rhomboidal, contiguous. Opening of cell occupying at least half of the front. Margin thickened, sometimes spinous above. A short spine or a sessile avicularium on the upper and outer angle. A. inarmate—without avicularium. 1. C. monotrypa. na. sp. Cells oblong, narrowed below, with a single perforation, in the upper and outer part behind. Opening oval, mar- gin smooth ; a short spinous process at the upper and outer angle; a sharp short spine in the middle of the upper border of the middle cell, at a bifurcation. Ovicell? in form of a very shallow excavation in the upper part of the cell in front. Hab.—Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. The only species with which this can be confounded, is C. Peachii, (Busk. Annals. Nat. Hist. Vol. 7. 2nd Series, p. 82.°Pl. VIII. fig. 1.) The latter, however, is very much smaller, the cells nar- rower in proportion to their length, and the margin of the opening minutely verrucose. The cell has more than one posterior perforation ; and the central cell at a bifurcation is rounded above and without a spinous process; lastly, the ovicell is much loftier and tesselated on the surface. * This shape of the cells is given from the back view of them. Digitized by Microsoft® APPENDIX. 369 11. Scrupocetuarra, Van Beneden. Char. (modified.) Cells rhomboidal, with a sinuous depression on the outer and posterior aspect. Each fur- nished with a sessile avicularium at the upper and outer angle in front, and with a vibraculum placed in the sinus on the outer and lower part of the cell behind. Opening oval, or subrotund, spinous above. Ovicells galeriform. This natural genus is characterized more particularly by the presence upon each cell of a sessile avicularium seated on, or in fact forming the upper and outer angle, and of a vibraculum placed on the back of the cell. The cells in some species are provided with a pedunculate operculum, by which it is intended to designate a process, which arisiug by a short tube from the anterior wall of the cell, imme- diately beyond the inner margin of the opening, projects forwards and bends over the front of the cell, expanding into a variously formed limb, and serving as protection to the mouth of the cell in front. The cavity of the tube by which the process arises, becomes, in the expanded portion, continuous with variously disposed grooves or channels, which terminate at the edges of the operculum. This organ affords excellent specific characters (not in this genus alone). Besides the sessile avicularia above noticed, many species of this genus also possess avicularia of another kind, and which are placed on the front of the cell below the opening and towards the inner side, or in other words, to- wards the middle line of the branch. In this genus, in all those species in which the second avicularium occurs, each individual cell is provided with one. This additional avi- cularium appears to be composed of a flexible material, and it is very easily broken off, so that in many instances, per- haps throughout an entire specimen the organ itself may be wanting, although its position is clearly evidenced by the existence of a rounded opening in the usual situation of the organ. It is necessary to distinguish this form of VOL. I. 2B Digitized by Microsoft® 370 APPENDIX. flexible (if such it be) avicularium from the truly articu- lated and moveable avicularia, in the form of bird’s heads, and which form does not occur in the genus Scrupocellaria. a.—Orercutat#. Cells furnished with a pedunculate operculum. 1. 8S. cervicornis, n. sp. Veins or channels in the oval operculum, branching so as to resemble the antlers of a stag. The marginal spine next above the pedunculated operculum, bifurcate. Hab.—Off Cumberland Islands, 25 fathoms, fine grey mud. A small, delicate, parasitic species, very transparent. The very peculiar markings on the operculum at once dis- tinguish it. The upper margin of the mouth is furnished with five elongated spines, the innermost of which is forked at the extremity. 2. SS. diadema, n. sp. Cells elongate, external side nearly straight, vibraculum sublateral, very prominent. Limit of operculum entire, or obscurely bi-trilobed. A flexible avicularium in front. Ovicell usually with a single row of four or five openings immediately above its mouth. Hab.—Moreton Bay. b. Inopercutatz. Cells without a pedunculate oper- culum. 3. &S. cyclostoma, n. sp. Opening of cell nearly or quite circular, margin much thickened, with three or four short indistinct spines above. Vibraculum sublateral. A flexible avicularium in front. Ovicells —? Hab.—Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. 4. 8S. ferox, n. sp. Opening of cell broad oval, pointed below; three short Digitized by Microsoft® APPENDIX. 371 indistinct spines above; vibraculum large, sinus deep. An enormous anterior avicularium, as wide as the cell. Ovi- cell lofty, with numerous punctures over the surface. Hab.—Louisiade Archipelago. Bass Strait. Distinguished from the former species by the enormous anterior avicularium, and the form of the opening. Another peculiarity of this species is the curious serrated appearance of the radical tubes. 12. Canpa, Lamouroux. Char. (B.) Cells rhomboidal, sinuated on the outer side for the lodgment of a vibraculum. No sessile avicularium on the upper and outer angle in front. An uncertain number of flexible avicularia, arranged along the middle of the branches, and in much less number than the cells. This genus is at once distinguished from Scrupocellaria, to which it is otherwise closely allied, by the absence of the sessile avicularium on the upper and outer angle in front, and also by the circumstance, that although there are flexible anterior avicularia, they do not correspond in number with the cells, but seem to be disposed in a special tract along the middle of the branch or internode. The connexion of the branches by transverse tubular fibres is not a character of either generic or specific importance, though it is more striking in the only species hitherto known as belonging to this genus, than in any other. These transverse tubular fibres are, like the radical fibres in Scrupocellaria, always inserted, not into the body of a cell, but into a vibraculum. They are evidently of the nature of a byssus. 1. C. arachnoides, Lamouroux. Cells biserial ; opening oval, truncated above, and the upper margin recedent, with a spine on each side, the outer the longer surface of cell covered with transparent granulations, 2B 2 Digitized by Microsoft® 372 APPENDIX. Hab.—Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. b. Internodes composed of two-four cells. 13. Emma, Gray. Dieffenbach’s New Zealand, Vol. ii. p. 293. Char. (B.) Cells in pairs or triplets. Opening more or less oblique, subtriangular, partially filled up by a granulated calcareous expansion. A sessile avicularium (not always present) on the outer side, below the level of the opening. This genus appears to be a natural one, though very closely allied to Tricellaria (Fleming). The more impor- tant points of distinction consist in the conformation of the opening of the cell, and in the position of the avicularium when the latter organ is present. The lower half of what would otherwise be the oval opening of the cell is filled up by a thin plate of calcareous matter, granulated on the surface, and by which the actual opening is rendered more or less subtriangular, the mouth being placed just below the apex of the triangle. The margin of the opening is considerably raised, especially at the oval end, so that the opening appears to be situated in a deep depression. This character of opening, however, occurs also in a triserial species of Cellularia from Algoa Bay. The position of the avicularium entirely below the level of the opening on the outer side of the cell, is the peculiar characteristic of Emma as distinguished from Tricellaria, in which that organ when present is placed on the upper and outer angle as in Cellularia proper, and Scrupocellaria. It is worthy of notice that avicularia may be present on every cell in some specimens, and most usually, whilst in others of equal size there will be none at all apparent. So that the position of these organs in this genus, as well as in Tricellaria, is of more importance systematically than even their existence. Digitized by Microsoft® APPENDIX. 373 1. £. crystallina, Gray, 1. c. Cells in pairs; three spines on the outer edge, the central usually the longest and strongest. Hab.—Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. Parasitic upon Polyzoa, &c. circinate branched— branches irregular divaricate. The opening of the cell triangular, very obliquely placed. 2. Emma tricellata, n. sp. Cells in triplets; three or four long spines on the upper and outer part; a small spine on the inner and lower part of the edge of the opening. Hab.—Bass Strait. Parasitic upon Catenicella, &c. Habit long straggling, very like the preceding species. The cells are more in- fundibuliform, and the avicularium, which, as in E. crys- tallina is not always present, is larger, but occupies the same position on the cell. 2. Polyzoary continuous throughout. Fam. 3. BICELLARIAD/. Frond wholly divided into narrow ligulate, dichotomous, bi or multiserial branches ; no vibracula. Avicularia when present pedunculate. 14. Bice.iari, Blainville. Char. (B.) Cells turbinate, distant. Opening directed more or less upwards. Mouth submarginal. Several curved spines, marginal or submarginal. 1. B. tuba, un. sp. Opening round, looking nearly directly upwards; a digitiform hollow process below the outer border supporting 2—4 long incurved spines; 2—3 other long curved sub- marginal spines behind or above the opening, none below it in front—a solitary spine on the back a short way down the cell. Avicularia very long, trumpet-shaped, arising on the back of the cell. Digitized by Microsoft® 374 APPENDIX. Hab.—Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. This species is at once recognisable by the remarkable form and unusual position of the avicularium, and also by the peculiar digitiform spiniferous process on the outer side of the opening. 2. B. gracilis, n. sp. Cells elongated, slender, opening round or suboval, look- ing obliquely forwards and upwards; three marginal (some- times slightly submarginal) spines above and behind the opening, and two much longer curved hair-like spines arising from the anterior and lower edge of the opening. Ovicells globose, subpedunculate, attached to the upper and inner part of the margin of the opening. Avicularia small, like bird’s heads. Hab.—Bass Strait. A delicate slender species, not unlike B. ciliata or avicularis in habit. The two long spines arising from the anterior edge of the opening suffice to distinguish it from the former of these two species. 3. B. grandis, nu. sp. Cells much elongated outwards, horizontal or projecting portion oblong, rounded at the extremity; 2—5 long curved submarginal spines, externally a single dorsal spine about half way down the cell; opening oval, narrower outwards ; very oblique mouth at the outer end. Avicu- laria— ? Hab.—Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. Quite distinct from B. ciliata not only in its size, which is nearly three times as great, but in the form of the cell and the openmg. The number of spines varies very much, and two or three of them, not unfrequently, arise from a common projecting process or base. Digitized by Microsoft® APPENDIX. 375 4. B, flexilis, n. sp. Cells obliquely truncated above with a short spine on the outer angle; opening large, suboval, with an obtuse angle outwardly ; margin slightly thickened, wholly unarmed. Hab.—Off Cumberland Islands, 27 fathoms, fine grey mud. Of a light grey colour: grows in large loose tufts, com- posed of long forked ascending branches. It is a very peculiar species, and some difficulty has been found in finding it a place. In the opening of the mouth, and the external short spine, it is aCellaria; and in the colour and want of distinct articulation, it approaches Acamarchis ; whilst in the form of the cell, and their mode of mutual connexion, it is a Bicellaria: it differs from all other species of that genus, however, in the absence of any long spines, and in general habit. Were it not referred to that genus, it would probably constitute the type of a distinct one. A curious little trident-like organ is visible in the narrow part of some cells, 15. Acamarcuis, Lamouroux. Char. (B.)—Cells elliptical,* closely contiguous ; open- ing very large, margin simple, not thickened. Avicularia not always present, like birds’ heads. To which may be added, that the species are frequently coloured, red or bluish. 1. A. neritina. Lamouroux. Hab.—Rio de Janiero. Broken Bay, N. 8. Wales. This species appears to be one of the most generally distributed of the Polyzoa; it occurs in nearly every lati- tude in both hemispheres. (?) 2. A. tridentata. Krauss. Corall. d. Siidsee, p. 3. fig. 2. Hab.—Bass Strait (?) * Viewed posteriorly. Digitized by Microsoft® 376 APPENDIX. This species is placed doubtfully in the Rattlesnake Col- lection. It occurs, however, in Van Diemen’s Land and New Zealand (Dr. Hooker), and is abundant in South Africa. Fam. 4. CABEREADA. Polyzoarium entirely divided into ligulate dichotomous bi or multiserial branches; back nearly covered by large vibracula ; avicularia sessile. 16. CaBerea, Lamouroux. Selbia, Gray. op. c. Vol. IL. p. 292. Cells bi-multiserial, in the latter case quincuncial. Posterior surface of branches concealed by large vibracula, which are placed obliquely in a double row, diverging in an upward direction from the middle line, where the vibracula of either row decussate with those of the other. Avicularia when present of the flexible kind, sessile on the front of the cell. The remarkable feature of this genus resides in the vibra- cula, which here appear to attain their utmost develop- ment. Each vibraculum appears to belong not to a single cell as in Scrupocellaria, but to be common to, or applied to the backs of several. They are more or less pyriform or long oval in shape, and the two rows decussate with each other along the middle of the branch—giving in the narrower species, especially, much the aspect of an ear of barley, and in the wider of a straw plait. The walls of the vibracula are usually thin, and very transparent, so as to allow the outlines of the cells to be seen imperfectly through them. The upper and outer extremity of the vibraculum is bifid, and to the inner horn is articulated the seta, and from the notch between the two horns there is continued nearly, if not quite, to the inner extremity of the organ, and along its upper border, a shallow groove, in which is Digitized by Microsoft® APPENDIX. 377 lodged the seta when in a state of rest. In most species the setais serrated with distant teeth on one side. Where there are more than two rows of cells, the marginal cells differ in conformation from the central. As in Scrupocellaria, the opening of the cell is sometimes protected by a pedunculate operculum. The genus, there- fore, may, like that, admit of being divided into sections, distinguished respectively by the presence or absence of a pedunculate operculum. a. Operculate. 1. C. rudis, n. sp. Multiserial ; opening of cells oval, margin much thick- ened, with a strong projecting upturned spine on each side in the central cells, and with three strong and long similar spines on the outer side, and a smaller one on the inner side in the marginal cells. Operculum spatulate, or pointed above, entire. Each cell of the central rows with two small avicularia in front, immediately below the mouth, Each marginal cell witha single large vibraculum in front below the mouth. Vibracula slender, very trans- parent. Setz short, not serrated. Hab.—Bass Strait. Colour dirty white: forms a broad frondose polyzoarium 13 to 2 inches, or perhaps more, in height. The branches, all disposed in the same plane, are flat, thick, and about 3th of an inch wide, composed of from four to six rows of comparatively small cells, which viewed behind appear lozenge or diamond shaped, and arranged quincunically. It is not always easy to observe with accuracy the outline of the vibracula, owing to the extreme tenuity of their walls, but the groove along the upper border is very dis- tinct and most usually has the seta lying in it. The avicularia on the marginal cells are very large, but not uniform in size. Along eaeh border of the branches runs a bundle of radical tubes, the number of which dimi- Digitized by Microsoft® 378 APPENDIX. nishes as the branch ascends, each terminating in a vibraculum. 2. C. zelanica, Busk. Selbia zelanica, Gray. Dieffenbach’s New Zealand, Vol. ii. p. 292. Crisia Boryi, Audouin. (Savigny, Egypt, pl. 12, fig. 4.) Biserial; opening of cell oval or elliptical, rounded at each end, crossed in front, and thus divided imto two nearly equal parts by a transverse calcareous band, from the lower edge of which depends a pedunculate, falciform operculum. Cells frequently produced upwards into a large arcuate ovicell. Vibracula ovoid, sete long, ser- rated. Hab.—Off Cumberland Islands, 27 fathoms, fine grey mud. Slender : sufficiently distinguished by the peculiar form of the operculum. This part is so indistinctly represented in Savigny’s figures, as to render it impossible to deter- mine with certainty whether his species is the present one or not. The posterior view is much more like, but that is insufficient of itself to afford a specific character. The back of the branches exactly resembles an ear of barley. This species occurs in New Zealand, and also in South Africa. b. Inoperculate; opening of cell without an oper- culum. 3. C. lata, n. sp? C. dichotoma?, Lamouroux. Branches 4—7 serial ; opening of cells in central rows, oval, sometimes square below; and the cell frequently produced into a shallow arcuate cavity. A short blunt spine on each side of the mouth. Marginal cells shallow, opening oval, margin much thickened, granulated : usually a short conical spine at the summit; a very minute sessile Digitized by Microsoft® APPENDIX. 379 avicularium behind the outer edge, superiorly. Vibracula very large: sete serrated. Hab.—Off Cumberland Islands, 27 fathoms fine grey mud. Colour white or yellowish; forms close rounded tufts 2; to 3 inches in height and width, composed of uniform dichotomously divided branches, about } of an inch wide, and which become wider towards their truncate extre- mities. The vibracula are very large, and though dis- tinctly defined, are yet sufficiently transparent to allow a view of the lozenge shaped cells. The central rows of cells vary in number from two to five, and the cells com- posing them are arranged with extreme regularity. The- marginal rows are placed in a plane posterior to the central, and as above noticed, the cells of which they are composed are widely different from the central. The only other species with which the present can be confounded is Caberea Hookeri (Cellularia Hookeri, Fleming) a British form. The latter species appears to differ from C. lata, chiefly in its having a large tubular spine on each side of the mouth of the lateral cells, and in each of the central cells, or nearly so, being furnished with an anterior avicularium, below the opening and to one side. The lateral sessile avicularium on the marginal cells is also much larger. Fam. 5. FLUSTRADA. Polyzoarium expanded, continuous or encrusting. Cells disposed in straight series, which do not radiate from a centre. 17. Frustra, Linn. a. Cells on one side only. 1. F. pyriformis ?, Lamouroux. Cells pyriform, or barrel-shaped, prominent, marked with transverse wrinkles. Ovicells lofty, keeled in front, with a strong central, and two lateral longitudinal ribs. Digitized by Microsoft® 380 APPENDIX. Hab.—Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. Sometimes small and parasitic, upon Sertularians and Polyzoa—sometimes independent, then of large growth, forming dichotomously divided fronds, with strap-shaped truncate, unequal divisions. b. Cells on both sides. (Carbasea, Gray.) 2. F. denticulata, un. sp. Cells much elongated, narrow; sides parallel, ends square ; an upturned spine on each side at the oval end; sides of cell denticulate, denticles very numerous, small, acute. Avicularia irregularly distributed on the surface of the frond. Hab.—Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. Frond divided into numerous strap-shaped, truncated segments, of various widths; it attains a height of several inches. In habit it is very ike some forms of F’. truncata, and there is a Mediterranean species (undescribed?) in which the cells are denticulate, much in the same way as in the present species, but otherwise quite distinct. 18. Rererora, Lamarck. Char. (B.)—Polyzoarium foliaceous, calcareous, or horny, reticulate ; cells only on one side. 1. R. cornea, n. sp. R. ambigua? Lamarck. Cells oval, not very regularly arranged, in a continuous, foliaceous, subcircular frond; reticulated with oval spaces, not as wide as the interspaces. Ovicells large, galeriform, immersed, smooth. Hab.—Off Cumberland Islands, 27 fathoms, fine grey mud, This remarkable species is so completely a Retepore in construction, that it seems impossible to separate it from that genus, merely from the circumstance that its compo- sition is more horny than calcareous. The frond is more or less orbicular, or rather is composed of more or less Digitized by Microsoft® APPENDIX. 381 orbicwlar or reniform folds, one over another, and attached as it were to a common centre. The substance is very thin and transparent, and the interspaces are much broader than the elliptical spaces. 2. R. cellulosa. Hab.—Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. Not distinguishable from a Mediterranean specimen. 3. R. ctenostoma, n. sp. Frond umbilicate, irregularly infundibuliform, spaces elongated, narrow, margins subdenticulate ; interspaces as wide as the spaces. Mouth of cells tubular, projecting ; with six or seven unequal acute expanding teeth. Hab.—Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. A very distinct and beautiful species. The frond is about half an inch wide, and though really umbilicate and sub- infundibuliform, does not at first sight appear so, being much more expanded on one side of the centre than on the other. 19. Escuara, Ray. 1. E. lichenoides, M. Edwards. Mem. sur les Eschares. Ann. d. 8. N. t. vi. p. 31. pl. 2. fig. 3. Hab.—Australian Sea, probably Bass Strait. (It also occurs in Algoa Bay.) 20. DiacnHoris, nu. gen. Tab. i. fig. 10O—12. Cells separate, each connected with six others by short tubes; disposed in a horizontal plane, and forming a con- tinuous irregular frond ; free, or partially adnate. The mode of arrangement and interconnexion of the cells in this genus is remarkable, and highly interesting. It represents, in fact, a dissected Flustra or. Membranipora. The cells are disposed in linear parallel series, and those of two contiguous series are alternate with respect to each Digitized by Microsoft® 382 APPENDIX. other. Each cell is connected with one at either end in the same linear series by a rather wide short tubular pro- longation, and with two on each side in the contiguous series by narrower tubes, so that each cell, except in the marginal rows, is connected with six others. It is this mode of interconnexion of the cells that affords the diagnos- tic generic character. There is but one species in the present collection, but in Mr. Darwin’s there are two others from the Straits of Magellan, as yet undescribed. 1. D. Crotali, n. sp. Tab. i. fig. 1O—12. Cells erect, open in front, perforated on the sides and bottom ; a lanceolate appendage articulated to each upper angle. Ovicell conical, placed on the upper edge. Hab.—Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. The frond, though not strictly speaking adnate, as it seems to have no attachments, is usually spread loosely over other polyzoa. There is no appearance of a moveable mandible in the lanceolate appendages, but which, never- theless, most probably represent avicularia. These organs are of a lanceolate form, with an elevated ridge or keel along the back, and slightly concave beneath. They pro- ject in front, slightly depending ; and at the base of each is a rounded eminence. Fam. 6. CELLEPORIDA. Polyzoarium massive or crustaceous, composed of ovate cells in juxta-position ; and arranged, more or less regu- larly, in linear series, radiating from a central point or line. 21. CreLieProra, Otho Fabricius. 1. Cellepora bilabiata, n. sp.? C. labiata ?, Lamouroux. Cells deeply immersed ; mouths in some entire and un- armed; in others, with two acuminated conical lips; Digitized by Microsoft® APPENDIX. 383 immediately beneath the apex of the posterior lip a small sessile avicularium. Ovicells subglobular, with a scutiform area on the upper surface, marked with several lines on each side, radiating from a central line. Hab.—Bass Strait. Parasitic on several zoophytes. This species to the naked eye exactly resembles C. pumicosa, but on closer examination several important differences will be observ- able. The cells in C. bilabiata are less rounded and less distinct than in C. pumivosa. As in that species, some of the cells are furnished with av avicularium, and others un- provided with that appendage; and again, some cells sup- port an ovicell, whilst others do not. The mouth of the unarmed cells in both species is more or less circular and plain, but in C. biladiata, even in the unarmed cells, the mouth is occasionally distinctly bilabiate. In C. pumicosa the avicularium is placed subapically on a solitary posterior obtuse mucro, but in C. bilabiata there are two such pro- cesses longer and more pointed, one in front and the other behind the mouth; the avicularium, as in the former case, being placed immediately below the apex of the pos- terior mucro. The ovicells also differ very much. In C. pumicosa this organ presents several rather large circular spots or perforations?, whilst in C. dilabiata it exhibits a scutiform or horse shoe-shaped area, marked with several transverse lines on each side of a middle longitudinal line. Fam. 7. GEMELLARIADS. Cells opposite, in pairs. 22. Dipymia, n. gen. Tab. i. fig. 6. Cells joined side by side; opening large, oval; mouth subapical, central. No avicularium. Ovicells contained within a cell, which is central at each bifurcation. Digitized by Microsoft® 384 APPENDIX. 1. Didymia simplex, n. sp. Tab. i. fig. 6. Cells oblong, narrowed below, broad and truncate, with an angle externally above. Back marked with transverse ruge. Hab.—Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. A fine species, growing in loosely-branched phytoid fronds, to a height of several inches. In some (dried) specimens the branches are a little incurved, but not in all. The situation of the ovicell is peculiar. It is contained within the upper part of a cell placed between, or rather in front of the pair, from which the two branches at a bifur- cation take their origin. The ovigerous cell differs widely in form from the others, being pyriform, and much attenuated below; and the orifice is below the middle. The upper compartment, in which the ovicell or sac itself is lodged, appears to be separated from the lower by a transverse diaphragm. 23. Dimetopia, n. gen. Tab. i. fig. 7—9. Cells joined back to back; the mouths of each alternate pair looking in the same direction, and at right angles to the intermediate pair. 1. D. spicata, n. sp. Tab. i. fig. 9. Cells infundibuliform. Margin of opening much thick- ened, with six equidistant, elongated pointed spines. Hab.—Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. White, transparent, forming thick tufts about 13 to 2 inches in height. The same species also occurs in New Zealand. 2. D. cornuta, un. sp. Tab. i. fig. 7, 8. Cells suddenly contracted about the middle. Opening oval, wide above; margins slightly thickened with a short thick conical horn on each side above, and a long projecting spine (rarely two) in front below. Hab.—Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. Branches narrower than in the preceding species. Colour Digitized by Microsoft® APPENDIX. 385 yellowish. Tufts loose; ovicell small in proportion to the size of the cells. It is placed immediately above and behind the upper margin of the opening of the cell to which it belongs. Suborder III. CTENOSOMATA. Fam. 1. VESICULARIAD. Cells tubular, horny. 24. Amatura, Lamouroux. 1. A. biseriata, Krauss. Corall. der Siidsee, p. 23. Fig. 1. a. bcc. Hab.—Swan Island, Banks Strait. The biserial arrangement of the cells is not a sufficient character, because in Amathia cornuta (Lamouroux), the cells are also biserial as well as in another South African species, very like the Australian form probably intended by Krauss, but apparently different from it. In the South African form the cells are shorter, narrower, and more cylin- drical, and the branches are terminated by two lanceolate tags, which are not present in the Australian species, in which latter the cells also are wider, longer, and prismatic, or subhexagonal, with very thin walls. SERTULARIAN ZOOPHYTES. The number of species of Sertularian Zoophytes com- prised in this collection amounts to thirty-one, belonging to five genera, all of which appear to be common to both the Northern and Southern hemispheres; and four are European types. The fifth, Pasythea, is stated by La- mouroux, to be found on Fucus natans and in the West VOL, I. 2c Digitized by Microsoft® 386 APPENDIX. Indies ; so that the present collection does not present any peculiar Australian generic form. It is far otherwise, how- ever, with respect to the species. Of these three only are found in the European seas, viz. : Sertularia operculata. Campanularia dumosa. ” volubilis ? Of which the first is a perfect cosmopolite, and the last is perhaps doubtful. There are also, what is much more strange, not more than three species which I have been enabled to trace to any other locality, even in the Southern hemisphere. These are :— Sertularia elongata. 55 divaricata, n. sp. Plumularia Macgillivrai, n. sp. The first occurring in New Zealand ; the second on the south coast of Patagonia and in the Straits of Magellan; and the third (which, however, is not, strictly speaking, an Australian form, having been procured in the Louisiade Archipelago) in the Philippine Islands. With these six exceptions, the whole number of species would therefore, to a certain extent, appear to:be characteristic of the Australian seas. Of the thirty-one species, it appears strange that not less than twenty-five should here be described as new; and there can be no doubt many so described are included under the vague and uncertain descriptions of Lamarck and Lamou- roux; but, in the absence of authentic specimens, or trustworthy figures, I have found it impossible to identify satisfactorily the species described by them, and have therefore thought it better to assign new names rather than to apply former ones, which would in all probability prove incorrect. It is hoped, at all events, that the descriptions here given will be found sufficient to prevent Digitized by Microsoft® APPENDIX. 387 any misconception of what is intended in the following catalogue. The mode in which the species are arranged will be seen from the following synoptical arrangement :— Synoptical Arrangement of the Genera and Species of Sertularian Zoophytes collected on the Voyage of the Rattlesnake. Order. ANTHOZOA HYDROIDA. Sub-order. SzRtuaRina. Fam. I. Serru,ariaps. Gen. 1. Sertularia. § 1. Cells alternate (Sertularia.} (a) Cells distichous. 1. S. elongata. 2. S. divaricata, n. sp. 3. S. crisioides. (b) Cells secund. 4. S. pristis. § 2. Cells opposite (Dynamena) (a) Cells distichous. . S. subcarinata, n. sp. . S. patula, n. sp. . orthogonia, nu. sp. . mutulata, un. sp. . operculata. . divergens, 0. sp. . trigonostoma, 0. sp. . digitalis. n. sp. . loculosa, n. sp. . unguiculata, n. sp. 15. S. tridentata, n. sp. 2. Pasythea. 16. P. hexodon, n. sp, 2c2 fmt _ NRRRRARNRNH Digitized by Microsoft® 388 APPENDIX. 3. Plumularia. § 1. Angiocarpez. 17. P. Huczleyi, n. sp. 18. P. hians, n. sp. 19. P. delicatula, n. sp. 20. P. aurita, nu. sp. 21. P. brevirostris, n. sp. 22. P. ramosa, un. sp. 23. P. divaricata, n. sp. 24. P. phenicea, un. sp. 25. P. longicornis, n. sp. 26. P. Macgillivrayi, n. sp. § 2. Gymnocarpez. 27. P. effusa, un. sp. 28. P. campanula, n. sp. Fam. 2. CaMPpaNULARIADZ. 4, Campanularia. 29. C. volubilis (?) 30. C. dumosa. 5. Laomedea. 31. L. Torresii, n. sp. Order. ANTHOZOA HYDROIDA. Suborder. SERTULARINA. Fam. I. SERTULARIADA. Gen. 1. Sertularia, Linneus. 1, Cells alternate (Sertularia.) a. Cells distichous. 1. S, elongata, Lamouroux. Hab.—Swan Island, Banks Strait, thrown on the beach. Port Dalrymple, on stones at low water. (Also New Zealand.) 2. S. divaricata, nu. sp. Cells urceolate-subtubular, or very little contracted towards the mouth, often adnate to the rachis nearly their whole length; mouth looking upwards, with three large Digitized by Microsoft® APPENDIX. 389 acute teeth, two lateral, and one rather longer than the others, and slightly recurved, above. Ovicells — ? Hab.—Bass Strait, 45 fathoms, dead shells. Colour dirty yellowish white ; polypidom branched, from acommon stem; branches irregular, (?) straggling, pinnate and bipinnate, pinnze and pinnules divaricate at right angles, alternate; rachis flexuose, or with an angle at the origin of each pinna. The cells are placed at wide distances apart; small and adnate very nearly to the top. The mouth circular, with three large teeth, the one above frequently obscured by adventitious substances, very acute, ascending, and a little recurved.—Sertul. Gayi. (Lamou- roux. Exp. p. 12. pl. 66. fig. 89 has four teeth.) This species occurs also on the south coast of Patagonia, and the Straits of Magellan; in the latter locality, how- ever, the habit is much more robust. 3. S. crisioides, Lamouroux. (Dynamena.) Cells adnate, conical, slightly curved, truncate at bottom, narrow at top; mouth vertical, external. Hab.—Off Cumberland Islands, 27 fathoms. Very like a Thuiaria, but the cells are not immersed, though very closely adnate, and the outer angle of the square base of each cell is in contact with the upper and back part of the one below it, so that a small triangular space or opening is left below each cell. The branches are very regularly alternate; and the polypidom is of a light brownish colour. b. Cells secund. 4. S. pristis, (B.) Idia pristis, Lamouroux. Cells tubular, all contiguous or adnate to each other, and to the rachis, upper half curved laterally, lower half closely adnate, almost immersed in the rachis; mouth look- ing upwards, rounded, expanded, almost infundibuliform, border slightly scalloped towards the rachis, and projecting externally. Ovicell cyathiform, long narrow with circular Digitized by Microsoft® 390 APPENDIX. ruge. Mouth as large asthe diameter of the cup, margin very slightly everted. Hab.— Princeof WalesChannel, Torres Strait, 9 fathoms. Off Cumberland Islands, in 27 fathoms, fine grey mud. I see no reason why the present species should not come under Sertularia. It is peculiar from the position and extreme contiguity of the alternate cells. The ovicells arise from the back of the rachis towards the side. When viewed posteriorly, the cells are seen through the trans- parent rachis, and it might thus at first sight appear as if the rachis itself were cellular and not tubular, but such is not the case. The tubeis wide and continuous from end to end. 2. Cells opposite—(sometimes alternate on the stem.) (Dynamena.) a. Cells distichous. 5. S. subcarinata, un. sp. Cells tubular, upper half divergent, ascending. Mouth looking upwards, circular, with an anterior and two lateral broad, expanding teeth. A narrow angular line or keel down the front of the cell. Ovicell— ? Hab.—Bass Strait, 45 fathoms dead shells. Colour white, transparent, growth small, straggling. Branches irregular, divaricate nearly at right angles, sub- alternate. The three expanding teeth and the anterior ridge or keel, besides its habit, distinguish it from a Tas- manian species with which alone can it be confounded. The cells are large. 6. S. patula, n. sp. Cells tubular, upper third free, divergent ascending. Mouth perfectly round, looking upwards and outwards, margin entire everted. Ovicell—? Hab.—Bass Strait, 45 fathoms, dead shells. Colour whitish. A small parasitic species, with opposite branches. 7. S. orthogonia, n. sp. Digitized by Microsoft® APPENDIX. 391 Cells tubular, nearly half free, divergent laterally at a right angle. Mouth looking directly outwards, border entire, slightly everted. Ovicell—? Hab.—Prince of Wales Channel, Torres Strait, para- sitic upon S. pristis. Very like the preceding in habit and size, of which it may possibly prove to be a variety. The cells, however, throughout the whole of the polypidom are of precisely the same character, in each form, and exhibit no interme- diate steps. In the present species the cells are much longer, rather narrower, and the upper half is turned out abruptly at a right angle, whilst in the former they ascend at an angle of 45°, and the free portion is much shorter. The branches in both are opposite ; the ovicells are unfor- tunately absent in each. 8. S. mutulata, un. sp. Cells compressed or flattened, from side to side; some- times angular, lower half adnate, upper half divergent, projecting like a bracket. Mouth looking directly upwards, narrow oblong, quadrangular. Ovicells aculeate, with strong widely set spines, pyriform depressed. Hab.—Prince of Wales Channel, Torres Strait, 9 fathoms. Colour light olive grey. Polypidom about three inches high, irregularly? branched, branches not opposite. Thecells are distichous, and of a very peculiar form, but varying in some degree according to their situation. The younger(?) cells on the secondary branches are flat on the inferior or outer aspect, with two angles on each side, or are qua- drangular ; whilst the cells on the stems or older or fertile branches are usually rounded below, or on the outer side, and thus have only one angle on each side. The mouth varies in shape according to the cell; in the former case being a regular long rectangle, whilst in the latter it is rounded on the outer side. The ovicells are placed in a Digitized by Microsoft® 392 APPENDIX. single series on one side of the rachis, as in S. digitalis, but are widely different in form. 9. S. operculata, Linn. .Hab.—Swan Island, Banks Strait. This species occurs in all parts of the world. It is to be carefully distinguished from S. bispinosa, Gray,—also an Australian and New Zealand species, but which does not occur in the present collection. 6. Cells (on the branches) secund, contiguous. 10. S. divergens, Lamouroux. Cells urceolate, much contracted towards the mouth ; upper half free, divergent, projecting laterally almost horizontally ; mouth small elliptical, with the long axis looking directly outwards; two lateral teeth. Ovicell smooth, rounded, ovoid; oral margin not elevated. Hab.—Swan Island, Banks Strait. Colour light yellowish: parasitic upon a fucus. Height from }$ to % inch; simply pinnate, branches distant, regularly alternate. The stem is divided into internodes, from each of which arises a single branch. The cells on the stem are alternate. b. Cells secund. 11. S. trigonostoma, n. sp. Cells ovoid, gibbous, much contracted towards the mouth. Very small portion free, projecting forwards and outwards. Mouth looking outwards and forwards, trian- gular, with a short blunt tooth on the external angle. Ovicell— ? Hab.—Prince of Wales Channel, Torres Strait, 9 fathoms. Colour very light yellowish. Polypidom simply pinnate, about two inches high: longest pinne about half an inch. Cells small adnate, projecting suddenly at top, and much contracted at the mouth. The mouth is of a triangular form, the longest side of the triangle being below. The cells are placed in pairs, but one is always a little higher Digitized by Microsoft® APPENDIX, 393 than the other (subalternate), and one pair is placed on each internode on the pinne. The stem is also indistinctly divided into internodes, from each of which a single pinna is given off alternately on opposite sides, and besides the pinne there are three cells on each internode, two on the side from which the pinna springs, and on the oppo- site side alternate in position to the other two. 12. S. digitalis, n. sp. Cells digitiform, slightly curved to the front, mouth circular, looking directly upwards. Margin entire, ex- panded. Ovicells long-ovoid, muricate, spines numerous crowded, mouth prolonged, tubular. Hab.—Prince of Wales Channel, Torres Strait, 9 fathoms. Colour dark grey, almost black. Stem two to three inches high, rising either from a strong main trunk (?) or from a mass of intertwined radical tubes. Stems or branches pinnate: pinnae or branches alternate, straight, divaricate. The cells forming a pair, are, on the branches, adnate to each other throughout their whole length. But on the stem the cells are distichous and wide apart. The ovicells are peculiar in their long flask-like form, and tubular mouth. They are placed all on one side of the rachis, generally in single file, but sometimes in pairs. 13. S. loculosa, n. sp. D. distans?, Lamouroux. Cells completely adnate to each other, each apparently divided into two compartments by a transverse constric- tion. Upper half turned horizontally outwards. Mouth roundish, irregular, contracted: looking outwards, and a little downwards. Ovicell— ? Hab.—Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. Colour deep brown; polypidom simple unbranched (?) about half an inch high, parasitic upon a broad leaved fucus. The cells are so closely conjoined as to form but one triangular body, which appears as if divided into five Digitized by Microsoft® 394 APPENDIX. loculaments by transverse constriction. The upper ap- parent constriction however seems merely to indicate the line of flexure of the upper part of the cell upon the lower. The form of the conjoined cells is not unlike Lamouroux’s figure of S. (D.) distans ; but the present is clearly not that species. 14. S. unguiculata, n. sp. Cells urceolate, upper half free, projecting in front, and much contracted towards the mouth ; elliptical, with the long axis horizontal, looking forwards aud a little out- wards ; two long lateral teeth, the outer the longer and usually incurved. Ovicell ovoid; mouth wide, with a much elevated, thickened border. Hab.—Swan Island, Banks Strait, thrown on the beach. Colour bright brown; polypidom pinnate; the stems arising from creeping radical tubes, very thickly intertwined around along slender body. The stems are from one to four inches long, the pinne about 1—3 inch, alternate. The rachis of the stem is divided into distinct internodes, from each of which are given off two pinne, and upon which are also placed usually six cells, three on either side. The pinne are also divided, but less distinctly, into inter- nodes of various lengths. The pairs of cells on the pinne are all secund, and in contact with each other at their bases, though widely divergent above. 14, S. tridentata, un. sp. Cells urceolate, ventricose below, contracted towards the mouth. Mouth looking forwards and outwards, cir- cular, with three acute teeth, two lateral, longer than the third, which is above. Hab.—Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. ; Colour yellowish white. Polypidom simply pinnate, about 21 inches high; pinne in the middle ? of an inch. The cells are ventricose below, and almost flask-shaped. Digitized by Microsoft® APPENDIX. 395 The two lateral teeth are long, acute, and slightly everted ; the upper third tooth is sharp, but not near as long as the others; the border of the mouth is as it were excavated below, so that the mouth is as nearly as possible vertical. Contrary to what is the case in S. divergens, but exactly as is represented in Savigny’s figures of the so-called S. disticha (Egypt. pl. 14. fig. 2, 3.); and S. distans (Egypt. pl. 14. fig. 1, 3.) the lateral teeth are sloped or bevelled off from below upwards, and not from above downwards, as in S. divergens (Mihi.) 2. Pasyruea, Lamoroux. Cells in distinct sets, at some distance apart. 1. P. hexodon, n. sp. Cells in sets of six,—three on each side ; a single axillary cell in each dichotomous division of the polypidom. Ovicell pedunculate ovoid, adnate to the rachis, with a lateral opening. Hab.—Off Cumberland Isles, 27 fathoms. As this differs in the number of cells in each set, as well as in the form of the cells, and in the form and position of the ovicell, it appears irreconcileable with Lamouroux’s P. quadridentata. According to the figure given of the latter the ovicell is not adnate, and is spirally grooved. 3. Prumutaria, Lamarck. a. Angiocarpeee—ovicells enclosed in siliquose, costate receptacles. 1. P. Huzleyi,n. sp. Plumularia—Huxley, Philos. Trans. Part II., 1849, p. 427. pl. 39. figs. 43 and 45. Cells cup-shaped, shallow; mouth nearly vertical, sub- quadrangular, margin subcrenate, plicate; with a small acute central denticle in front, and a wide shallow notch behind. Rostrum twice as long as the cell, arising from Digitized by Microsoft® 396 APPENDIX. the rachis by a broad ventricose base, adnate the whole length of the cell, narrow upwards and slightly expanded again at the summit; lateral processes very short and wide, canalicular adnate. Coste of ovarian receptacle numerous, each with a single branch near the bottom, and beset with small cup-like processes, and not connected by a membrane. Hab.—Port Curtis. Off Cumberland Islands, m 27 fathoms fine grey mud. Colour yellowish white. Polypidom about 6 inches high, rising with a single flexuose stem, which is naked at bottom, and afterwards gives off alternate branches, bifa- riously disposed at each angular fluxure. Branches simple, 2—3 inches long ; pmnules about }inch. The construction of the ovarian receptacle in the present section of the genus Plumularia is well exemplified in this species, owing to the comparative simplicity of the elements of which it is composed. 2. P. hians, n. sp. Cell cup-shaped, deep, cylindrical ; mouth nearly vertical; margin with three teeth on each side, the middle one the longest, acute, much expanded, the other more rounded ; a wide notch posteriorly. Rostrum, arising from the rachis, as long as the cell, slender, tubular, adnate; lateral processes very small, ovarian receptacles—? Hab.—Prince of Wales Channel, Torres Strait, in 9 fathoms. Colour bright brown, rachis shining, very dark brown ; polypidom about six inches high, simply pinnulate, pin- nules about half an inch; thickly and regularly disposed, alternate. 3. P. delicatula, n. sp. Cell cup-shaped, rounded, mouth at an angle of 45,; margin dentate, with two lateral teeth of equal size and a central one in front longer, all acute; entire posteriorly. Digitized by Microsoft® APPENDIX. 397 Rostrum a little longer than the cell, scarcely connected with the rachis, slender, and closely adpressed and adnate to the cell below, wide and projecting upwards; lateral processes large, rising above the margin of the cell, coni- cal, tubular, or canalicular. Hab.—Prince of Wales Channel, Torres Strait, in 9 fathoms. Colour of rachis and pinnules, delicate yellowish white above; of rachis, light brown, inferiorly; polypidom about two inches high, rising in several straight simply pianulated fronds from a common centre ; pinnules ascend- ing about } inch. 4, P. aurita, n. sp. ' Cells cup-shaped, tapering at bottom, constricted just below the top; mouth at an angle of 45°, circular; margin subcrenate, plicate, with three folds on each side, with a wide shallow notch in front and entire behind. Rostrum, slender, attenuated below, adnate up to the cell, summit contracted, tubular; lateral processes very long, expanding, rising far above the margin of the cell, conical, tubular. Hab.—Off Cumberland Isles, 27 fathoms. Colour bright brown; polypidom 2—3 inches high, con- sisting of straight pinnate fronds, pinnz or branches not opposite, nor regularly alternate, divaricate at right-angles. 5. P. brevirostris, nu. sp. Cell sub-tubular, curved; mouth expanded with two equal acute teeth on each side, and a longer narrow and slightly incurved, central one in front. Rostrum small, conical, projecting, about halfthe length of the cell; lateral processes small, recurved at an angle, canalicular. Hab.—Off Cumberland Isles, 27 fathoms. Colour dirty white. In habit, and to the naked eye, very much like the last; its growth, however, appears to be longer and less regular. The difference in the cell is very great. Digitized by Microsoft® 398 APPENDIX. 6. P. ramosa, nu. sp. Cells cup-shaped, deep, rounded at bottom; margin elevated on the sides, expanding, with four teeth on each side, the first and second in front much expanded, acute, incurved at the point; a long slender imcurved central tooth in front ; margin entire behind. Rostrum not con- tinued to the rachis, adnate the whole length of the cell, wide and projecting, narrowed to the poimt, which is tubular, opening oblique, longer than the cell; lateral processes conical, short, tubular, closely adnate. Coste of ovarian receptacle with short opposite tubular branches ; not connected by a membrane. Hab.—Swan Island, Banks Strait, thrown on the beach. Colour greyish brown; polypidom 4—5 inches high, much branched, branches irregular, divaricate, rismg in great numbers almost immediately from the mass of radical fibres. A beautiful species, and the ovarian recep- tacles very interesting. 7. P. divaricata, un. sp. Cells cup-shaped, long, slightly contracted at bottom ; mouth circular ; margin sub-expanded, dentate, with three nearly equal upright teeth on each side, and a long, round pointed central tooth infront. Rostrum narrow at bottom, closely adnate, scarcely rising higher than the central tooth ; lateral processes small, closely adnate. Hab.—Bass Strait, 45 fathoms. Colour dark brown, almost black when dry. In habit it is extremely like the preceding species, from which, however, it is quite distinct. The polypidom is five to six inches high, perhaps more; stem slender, branches long, divaricate at right angles, not opposite. 8. P. phenicea, n. sp. Cells cup-shaped, rounded, bent over in front, so that Digitized by Microsoft® APPENDIX. 399 the mouth is nearly vertical; margin with two folds, subcrenate, and with a broad, but pointed lateral lobe; entire posteriorly. Rostrum, arising solely from the cell, small, upper half free, projecting, tubular; lateral pro- cesses long, cylindrical, or tapering, free, projecting. Hab.—Prince of Wales Channel, Torres Strait, in 9 fathoms. Colour bright buff, many of the branches having a piebald aspect, or mottled with dark purple patches; when wetted these portions present a beautiful crimsom colour. Polypi- dom five to six inches high, rising with a strong, tapering, longitudinally grooved stem, which is sometimes sparingly branched, but more commonly simple. Stem and branches pinnate or bi-pinnate, the pinne and pinnules alternate. The latter are about } inch in length. 9. P. longicornis, n. sp. Cells urceolate, deep, upper half curved abruptly upon the lower, so that the mouth is vertical; margin subplicate, subcrenate, rising on each side into a broad angular lobe, entire behind, and quite free from the rachis. Rostrum, rising entirely from the cell, with a broad base, suddenly contracting into a long slender tube, which projects in front a long way from the cell; lateral processes very - long, free, tubular, projecting suddenly forwards and a little upwards and outwards. Hab.~—Prince of Wales Channel, Torres Strait, 9 fathoms. Colour pale buff. Polypidom five to six inches high, consisting of a strong straight, tapering stem, sometimes with a single ascending branch given off near the bottom ; stem and branches pinnate ; pinne 14 to 14 inches long ; alternate, and arranged with the utmost regularity, of uniform length, till near the summit, when they shorten rapidly, so as to give the polypidom a rounded truncate end. The pinnules are excessively fine and delicate, not Digitized by Microsoft® 400 APPENDIX. more than +; to =); inch long, and very closely set, so that the whole polypidom has the most exact resemblance to a beautiful silky quill feather. 10. P. Macgillivrayi, n. sp. Cells campanulate, deep, rounded at bottom; margin subplicate, entire. Rostrum large, rising from the cell, adnate the whole length of, and as long as, the cell; the upper third constitutes a cup distinct from the lower por- tion; lateral processes adnate, wide, short, curved upwards, canalicular or tubular. Coste of ovarian receptacle con- nected by a membranous expansion. Hab.—Louisiade Archipelago, reefs at low water. Colour bright brownish buff. Polypidom six to seven inches high, consisting of a strong central stem, giving off opposite branches, at regular intervals, and bifariously disposed. Pinnules about } inch long, closely set. b. Gymnocarpee—ovicels naked. ll. P. effusa, n. sp. Cells urceolate ; deeply emarginate posteriorly, entire in front, ventricose below ; a small pedunculate infundibuli- form process attached in front to the projecting portion of the rachis on a level with upper border of the cell. Ovicell—? Hab.—Prince of Wales’ Channel, Torres Strait. Colour buff. Habit very peculiar. The polypidom rises to a height of seven or eight inches, with a long slender waving, but upright stem, which is naked inferiorly, and above gives off numerous straight or waving branches, again sub-dividing into other shorter straight ramules, about an inch long. The branches and branchlets are both pinnulated ; the pmnules are not more than +; to 7, inches long, extremely delicate and minute, so as in the dry state to be scarcely visible. The transition from the former section of the genus Plumularia to the present, is Digitized by Microsoft® APPENDIN. 401 well shewn, through P. Macgillivrayi and the present species. 12. P. campanula, n. sp. Cells campanulate, border entire; lateral and eee appendages canalicular. Branches alternate. Ovicells—? Hab.—Bass Strait, 45 fathonis dead shells. There appear to be two varieties of this species, or that different portions of the same polypidom may assume very different characters. The larger and probably more com- mon form, is at first sight extremely like P Catharina, but it will soon be noticed that the branches are alter- nate instead of opposite. The shape of the cells and their average size is precisely the same as in that species. The lateral and anterior appendages differ in form very con- siderably. In P. Catharina these organs are longer, more slender, infundibuliform, whilst in P. campanula they are shorter and thicker and the terminal cup is open on one side or canalicular. The ovicells might perhaps afford a more striking characteristic, but they are unfor- tunately wanting in all the specimens of P. campanula. The second variety is much slenderer, unbranched, the cells and their appendages smaller but of the same form, and the cells usually contain a mass of opaque black matter. This species is parasitic, and appears to attain a height of several inches. FAM. TV.—CAMPANULARIAD.E. 4. Campanutarta, Lamarck. 1. C. volubilis? Ellis. Hab.—Prince of Wales Channel, Torres Strait. As one or two ovicells, parasitic upon Sertu/aria pristis, are the only evidences of this species that have come under observation, some doubt as to identity of the species with the British form may be entertained. 2. C. dumosa, Pallas. VOL. I. 2D Digitized by Microsoft® 402 APPENDIX. Hab.—Bass Strait. Parasitic upon Sertularie. Rather more slender than the usual British form, but otherwise identical. 5. Laomepra, Lamouroux. 1. Laomedea Torresii, n. sp. Cells campanulate, nearly sessile upon an incrassated collar projecting from the stem. Margin of mouth not thickened, with four shallow excavations. Hab.—Prince of Wales Channel, Torres Strait. Of a light brown colour, two or three inches high. At first sight it is very like Laomedea antipathes, Lamouroux, which occurs in New Zealand, but differs materially in its smaller size and in the four shallow emarginations of the mouth, which part in ZL. antipathes is entire and with the margin a little thickened. Norr.—Circumstances having prevented the insertion here of descriptions of new species of Lunulites (Tab. I. fig. 13—16), and a few other Zoophytes of the “ Voyage of the Rattlesnake’’—examined by Mr. Busk subsequently to the preceding paper having been placed in the printer’s hands —I may mention that the descriptions in question will shortly be published elsewhere.—J. M‘G. END OF VOL. I. cee 2 Ss G. NORMAN, PRINTER, MAIDEN LANE, COVENT GARDEN. Digitized by Microsoft® PUBLISHED BY T. & W. BOONE, 29, NEW BOND STREET. REDUCED IN PRICE TO £3. Just published, a new revised and cheaper edition, complete in 6 vols. post 8vo. with 55 Maps and Plans, price £3. HISTORY OF THE WAR IN THE PENINSULA AND THE SOUTH OF FRANCE. BY LIEUT-GENERAL SIR WILLIAM NAPIER, “ THE FAITHFUL, IMPARTIAL, AND ELOQUENT HISTORIAN.’ Sir Robert Peel’s Speech. “The great work of General Napier does undoubtedly record it, (national tribute to those engaged in the Peninsular War) and will continue to do so as long as the English language shall last.”—Times. N.B. A few copies of the former large type Library Edition, in 6 vols. demy 8vo. price £6. and some odd volumes to complete sets, price 20s. each, may be had on early application. ALSO, BY LIEUT.-GENERAL SIR W. NAPIER. A REPLY TO LORD STRANGFORD’S “ OBSERVATIONS” on some passages in Colonel NarrER’s History of the Warinthe Peninsula. Second Edition, 8vo0. price 1s. A REPLY TO VARIOUS OPPONENTS, particularly to “ Strictures on Colonel Napier’s History of the War in the Peninsula,” together with Observations illustrating Sir John Moore’s Campaign. 8vo. price 2s. M.-GENERAL SIR W. NAPIER’S JUSTIFICATION OF HIS THIRD VOLUME, forming a Sequel to his Reply to various Opponents, and containing some new and curious facts relative to the BATTLE OF ALBUERA. 8vo. price 1s. 6d. A LETTER TO GENERAL LORD VISCOUNT BERESFORD, being an Answer to his Lordship’s assumed Refutation of Colonel Napier’s Justification of his Third Volume. 8vo. price 1s. 6d. COUNTER-REMARKS TO MR. DUDLEY MONTAGU PERCEVAL'S RE- MARKS upon some Passages in Colonel Napie.’s 1 ourth Volume of his His- tory of the Peninsular War. In 8vo. price Is. 6d. The above Pamphlets are required to complete the early Editions. THE SEARCH FOR SIR JOHN FRANELIN. In 1 vol. 8vo. with large Maps by Arrowsmith, cloth, price 10s. NARRATIVE OF AN EXPEDITION TO THE SHORES OF THE ARCTIC SEA, IN 1846, 7. BY JOHN RAE, HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY’S SERVICE; COMMANDER OF THE EXPEDITION. Digitized by Microsoft® 2 Published by T. & W. Boone, 29, New Bond Street. Royal Quarto, on Indian Paper, price 1s. 6d. PORTRAIT OF MAJOR-GENERAL SIR CHARLES JAMES NAPIER, CONQUEROR OF SCINDE. FROM A SKETCH BY MAJOR-GENERAL SIR W. F. P. NAPIER. “] must say that, after giving the fullest consideration to those operations, that I have never known an instance of a general officer who has shewn to a higher degree than he has done all the requisite qualifications to enable him to conduct great opera- tions. He has manifested the utmost discretion and prudence in the formation of his plans, the utmost activity in perfecting his preparations to ensure success; and finally the utmost zeal, gallantry, and science, in carrying those plans and preparations into execution, I must say that the march of General Napier against Emaum Ghur was one of the most extraordinary marches I ever read of; and it was, I must say, most completely successful. He marched the army through the desert, with all the heavy guns, transporting all his materiel as well, and by this extraordinary march he deprived the enemy of all means of retreat.”—Speech of the Duke of Wellington. “ The taking of the fort of Emaum Ghur, was one of the most brilliant affairs ever undertaken and executed.”—Speech of the Earl of Ripon. «« To the example which he set the troops—inspiring an unparalleled confidence in their commander,—we must mainly attribute the success of the actions of Meeanee and Hyderabad.” —Speech of Sir Robert Peel. In one volume 8vo. price 7s. boards, REMARES ON MILITARY LAW AND THE PUNISHMENT OF FLOGGING. BY MAJOR-GENERAL SIR CHARLES JAMES NAPIER, K.C.B. “ This work, we have several times taken occasion to remark, is far less known than it deserves to be, especially among the profession. It abounds in lessons of profound wisdom, delivered in the clearest language, and it is as modestly aa it is ably written ; nor have we often met with a more amusing book. There are to be found in it many interesting and characteristic anecdotes, and there is a vein of quiet humour that is very diverting, but which interferes not at all with the serious purpose of the author, who has left upon every page traces of a benevolent heart and sound in- tellect.”—Naval and Military Gazette. In a Box, price 12s. 6d. MILITARY FIGURES FOR THE PRACTICE AND EXPLANATION OF THE “EXERCISE AND EVOLUTIONS OF THE ARMY,” According to Her Majesty's Regulations ; Arranged for the Company, Battalion, and Light Infantry, BY MAJOR HOPKINS, K.H. “ Major Hopkins, of the old 43rd, in which corps he served with distinction, has invented a set of Military Figures, arranged for the illustration and practice of the evolu- tions of the Infantry, according to Her Majesty’s regulations, and exceedingly well calculated to effect their object. Being adapted to the movements either of the Battalion, Company, or Light Infantry, these Figures, which are accompanied by an Explanatory pamphlet, and are very properly dedicated to Lord Fitzroy Somerset, will be very useful to young officers of the Infantry.”— United Service Journal, Digitized by Microsoft® Published by T. & W. Boonr, 29, New Bond Street. 3 BATTLES OF QUATRE-BRAS, LIGNY, WAVRE,; AND WATERLOO. Nen, revised, and cheaper edition, complete in 1 vol. 8v0. uniform with General Napier’s History of the War in the Peninsula, and the Wellington Dispatches. DEDICATED, BY PERMISSION, TO HER MOST GRACIOUS MAJESTY, THE QUEEN. HISTORY OF THE WAR IN FRANCE AND BELGIUM, IN 1815, FROM THE TESTIMONY OF EYE-WITNESSES AND OTHER SOURCES, EXCLUSIVE AND AUTHENTIC, BY CAPTAIN WILLIAM SIBORNE, CONSTRUCTOR OF THE ‘f WATERLOO MODEL.” Third Edition, beautifully embellished with Medallion Portraits, engraved on steel, of Tue Duxe or WELLINGTON, Lorn Hitt, Prince Brlicner von Wautstapt, Soutr, Duxe or Datmartia, Naerotzon Buonaparte, Ney, Doxe or Etcaincen, Tur Duxe or Brunswick, Count ALTEN, Tue Prince or OranceE, Sir Tuomas Picton. Tue Marquess or ANGLESEY, A Folio Atlas of Anaglyptographic Engravings on Steel, from Models, containing 2 PLANS oF QuaTRE-BRas, shewing different Periods of the Action. 2-- Lieny - - - - - ditto. 2 ~ - - WAVRE- - - = - - ditto. 3 - - - WATERLOO - - - - - = ditto, With Maps of Belgium and part of France, illustrative of the above, sold separately, price 12s. In announcing a History of the War in 1815, by the Constructor of the celebrated Model of the Battle of Waterloo, the Publishers feel confident that the undeniable proof which the latter work of art affords of the most indefatigable perseverance and industry in the collection of materials for the accurate representation of an event so fertile in glorious achievements, and so decisive in its influence upon the destinies of Europe, as also of the professional skill with which those materials have been arranged for the complete deve- lopment of that ever memorable conflict, offers a sufficient guarantee for a similar appli- cation of the author’s unwearied zeal and research in the task he has undertaken of supplying what still remains a desideratum in our national history and military records —a true and faithful account of that last campaign in Europe, comprising the crowning triumph of the British army, and, at the same time, the closing chapter of the military life of its illustrious chief, the Duke of Wellington. Numerous as are the accounts already published of this great conflict, the information which they convey is generally of too vague and indistinct a nature to satisfy either the military man who seeks for professional instruction, or the general reader who desires to comprehend more clearly, in allits details, that gorgeous machinery, if it may so be termed, which was put in motion, regulated, and controlled by the greatest masters of their art, who, in modern times, have been summoned forth to wield the mighty engines of destruction wherewith nation wars against nation. How just is the observation of Jomini, one of the most talented military writers of the day—‘‘ Jamais bataille ne fut plus confusément décrite que celle de Waterloo.” On consulting these accounts the public glean little beyond the fact that at Waterloo the allied army stood its ground during the whole day, in defiance of the reiterated attacks by the French, until the Duke Digitized by Microsoft® 4 Published by T. & W. Boonz, 29, New Bond Street. of Wellington led it forward to crown its exertions with the most splendid victory. They afford us but a faint idea of those strategical movements and combinations upon which the grand design of the campaign was based by the one party, and with which it was assailed by the other; and we seek in vain for the development of those tactical dispositions by which the skill of the commanders and the valour of the combatants were fairly tested. From the want of due consecutive arrangement in the details, and the tendency too frequently manifested to compensate for this deficiency by mere anecdotie narration, the motives by which, in the great game of war, the illustrious players are actuated, are left out of view, while circumstances which especially call forth the skill of subordinate officers in command, as also the courage, the discipline, and the prowess of particular brigades, regiments, or even minor divisions of the contending masses, are either imperfectly elucidated, or, as is often the case, unhesitatingly set aside to make way for the exploits of a few individuals whose deeds, however heroic they may be deemed, constitute but isolated fractional parts of that great sum of moral energy and physical force combined, requisite to give full effect to the application of the mental powers of the chieftains under whose guidance the armies are respectively placed. These remarks have reference, more or less, not only to the generality of the accounts of the Battle of Waterloo, with which the public have hitherto been furnished, but also to those of Quatre-Bras, Ligny, and Wavre; the first of which, brilliant as was the reflec- tion which it cast upon the glory of the victors, became eclipsed solely by the more dazzling splendour of the greater, because more important, triumph of Waterloo. To endeavour to remedy these deficiencies, through the medium of the evidence of eye- witnesses, most willingly and liberally supplied, as well as carefully collated, examined, and, at the same time, proved, wherever practicable, by corroborative testimony—every component piece of information being made to dovetail, as it were, into its adjacent and corresponding parts—is the chief object of the present publication. The opportunities which Captain Siborne has enjoyed of collecting the data requisite for this highly important work, have been peculiarly favourable. Having commenced his large Model under the authority of the government, he received permission to address himself to the several officers who might have it in their power to communicate valuable information ; and, with a view to render such information as complete as possible, and to substantiate it by corroborative testimony, he forwarded his applications to almost every surviving Waterloo officer—not limiting his inquiries to any one particular period of the action, but extending them over the whole of the Battle of Waterloo, as-also of that of Quatre-Bras, and of the entire campaign. In this manner he has succeeded in obtaining from the combined evidence of eye-witnesses a mass of extremely important matter; and when the public are informed that Captain Siborne has also been in unreserved communi- cation with the governments of our allies in that war, concerning the operations of the troops they respectively brought into the field, it is presumed that the extraordinary advantages he possesses for a satisfactory fulfilment of his design will be at once acknow- ledged and appreciated. One remarkable defect which is manifested, without a single exception, in the existing histories of this campaign, consists in the want of good plans upon scales sufficiently comprehensive to admit of the positions and movements being duly illustrated. By the application of the anaglyptograph to accurately executed models, Captain Siborne has succeeded in producing plans of the different fields of battle, which afford so striking a representation of the features of ground—a representation which has all the appearance of the subject being shewn in relief—that not only the military man who is accustomed to examine plans, but the civilian who has never studied any thing of the kind, will be enabled thoroughly to comprehend them even in the minutest details. To respond to the interest felt in the record of that glorious contest by the relatives and friends of the combatants, correct lists will be appended to the work, of the names of all officers who were present, distinguishing those who were killed or wounded. Marginal notes will also be introduced wherever officers’ names are first mentioned in the course of the work, explaining, if surviving, their present rank and if dead, the date of their decease, and the rank which they then held. A work brought out under such favourable auspices, and grounded upon materials which, considering the advanced age of the principal contributors, would at no remote period have been placed beyond our reach, cannot fail to excite, in a considerable degree, * Digitized by Microsoft® Published by T. & W. Boonr, 29, New Bond Street. 5 the attention of the public ; for which reason no pains have been spared in rendering the illustrations fully commensurate with the value and importance of the design. The new edition is complete in 1 vol. 8vo. embellished with beautifully executed medallic por- traits, and accompanied by a folio volume, (to be had separately), containing military maps and exquisitely engraved anaglyptographic plaus from models expressly made by Captain Siborne, of the fields of battle of Quatre-Bras, Ligny, Wavre, and Waterloo. SUBSCRIBERS. HER MOST GRACIOUS MAJESTY, THE QUEEN. HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS PRINCE ALBERT, K.G.; G.C.B. HER MOST GRACIOUS MAJESTY, QUEEN ADELAIDE, HER ROYAL HIGHNESS THE DUCHESS OF KENT. HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS, THE DUKE OF CAMBRIDGE, K.G.; G.C.B.; G.C.H. HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS, PRINCE GEORGE OF CAMBRIDGE, K.G. HIS MOST GRACIOUS MAJESTY, THE KING OF HANOVER, K.G.; G.C.B.; G.C.H. HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS, THE CROWN PRINCE OF HANOVER. HIS MAJESTY, THE KING OF PRUSSIA. HIS MAJESTY, THE KING OF SWEDEN. HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS THE CROWN PRINCE OF SWEDEN. HIS MAJESTY THE KING OF SAXONY. HIS SERENE HIGHNESS, THE REIGNING DUKE OF BRUNSWICK. HIS SERENE HIGHNESS, THE PRINCE BERNHARD OF SOLS-BRAUNFELS. General the Marquess of Anglesey, K.G., G.C.B., G.C.H. General Bacon, Portuguese Service. Lieut.-Colonel Barton, K.H. 12th Lancers. Colonel Thomas Hunter Blair, C.B., Unatt, Major-General Sir Guy Campbell, Bart. K.C.B. Colonel Chatterton, K.H. Commanding 4th Dragoon Guards. William Crawford, Esq. 2nd (R.N.B.) Dragoons. Lieut.-Colonel John Crowe, K.H., Unatt. Major-General Sir Jeremiah Dickson, K.C.B. Lieut.-Colonel Dorville, C.B. Unatt. Major-General Sir Neil Douglas, K.C.B., K.C.H. Major Edward Ward Drewe. Captain N. F, Dromgoole, h. p. 35th Regt. Colonel Berkeley Drummond, Scots Fusilier Guards. Colonel Dyneley, C.B., Royal Horse Artillery. Lieut.-General Sir De Lacy Evans, K,C.B. Lieut,-Colonel Gawler, K.H., Unatt. Captain E. Gilborne, late of the 71st Regt. Lieut.-Colonel Grove. Lieut.~General Lord Greenock, K.C.B. Colonel the Lord Viscount Guillamore, Unatt. Major-General Hamerton, C.B. ee the Rt. Hon. Sir Henry Hardinge, Lieut.-General Lord Harris, C.B., K.C.H. The late General Lord Viscount Hill, G.C.B.,G.C.H. Colonel George W. Horton, Unatt. Captain W. Humbley, h.p. Rifle Brigade. Lieut.-Colonel Edward Keane, Unatt. Colonel Clark Kennedy, C.B., K.H. Command- Colonel James Shaw Kennedy, C.B., Unatt. Captain Kincaid, late of the Rifle Brigade. Colonel Charles King, K.H., late of 16th Light Dragoons, Charles Lake, Esq. late of the Scots Fusilier Guards. General Sir John Lambert, G.C.B. Lieut.-Colonel Leach, late of the Rifle Brigade. Lieut.-Colonel Francis La Blanc, Unatt, Lieut.-Colonel Louis, Royal Artillery. Lieut.-Colonel Marten, Commanding Ist Dragoons. Lieut.-Colonel A. C. Mercer, Royal Artillery. | Major-General Douglas Mercer, C.B. Lieut.-Colonel Monins, Commanding 69th Regt. Major-General the Honourable Henry Murray, C.B. Lieut.-Colonel Muttlebury, C.B., late of 69th Regt. Major-General O’Malley, C.B. Frederick Hope Pattison, Esq., late 88rd Regiment. General Sir George Quentin, C.B., K.C.H. His Grace the Duke of Richmond, K.G. Major Reid, late 33rd Regiment. Colonel T. W. Robbins, h.p. 18th Regiment. Colonel William Rowan, C.B., A.Q.M. Gen. Lieut.-General Sleigh, C.B. Major-General J. Webber Smith, C.B. Lieut.-General Lord Fitzroy Somerset, K.C.B. Colonel Stawell, Commanding 12th Lancers. General Lord Strafford, G.C.B., G.C.H. The late Lieut.-General Lord Vivian, G.C.B.,G.C.H. Colonel Whinyates, C.B., K.H., Royal Artillery. Lieut.-General Sir Alexander Woodford, K.C.B., K.C.H Major-General Sir John Woodford, K.C.B., K.C.H. Colonel Yorke, Assist. Q. M. Gen. All the above-named Officers were at Waterloo. ing 7th Dragoon Guards. OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. “The accounts already published vary so much, and so little reliance is to be placed upon some of the details that we feel no apology to be requisite for noticing a work so faithful and excellent as that which has been recently published by Captain Siborne. ~—Of all the accounts we have yet seen, that recently published by Captain Siborne is the fullest, the fairest, we believe the most accurate —the best.”—Times, Jan. 1845, “Tt is written in a free and impartial manner, is lucid in its descriptions, sur- prisingly correct in details, and many important features of the campaign, which have hitherto remained either wholly unnoticed, or else kept too much in shadow, are now brought forward into proper relief; whilst the grand military operations of the period eo Digitized by Microsoft® 6 Published by T. & W. Boone, 29, New Bond Street. are delineated with the pen of an enlightened soldier. Ina word, by separating, with much discrimination, the gold from the dross, he has turned to excellent account the materials for his undertaking, which seem to have flowed to him from every quarter; and the consequence is, that a standard history has been produced, remarkable for its spirit and vigour, as well as for its truth.” —U. S. Journal. “ We hail this work as « standard history of the Battle of Waterloo and of the Campaign of Flanders—a worthy companion and sequel to the Peninsular Campaigns of Napier. A compilation from the testimonies of eye-witnesses (as this is) had they been dressed up for publication, and subjected individually to the public judgment, would have been cold and lifeless; here all is freshness, vivacity, unaffected truth ; and thus is explained the very superior style of the writer, who possesses a nerve and spring of thought and a brilliant colouring of phrase, combined with a transparent clearness of expression, such as is rarely attained by the purely literary writer, and seldom, if ever, found in connection with profound, professional, and practical knowledge, as in this work. The most intimately acquainted with the scenery and incidents of the days of June, 1815, are loudest and most decided in their admiration of the plans and portraits which embellish these volumes. The ground is engraved by « peculiar progress, which represents in relief the slightest elevation, and sinks the smallest depression by the pecu- liar curve and measure of the line. Thus, the spectator looks down upon the ground of the battle itself with the clear perception of all its undulations, and its every variety of form and aspect. A second, and very different process, to which the plate is then subject, places in their positions the troops exactly as they occupied the field. These speaking plans have an accuracy hitherto unimagined, with an effect which is unequalled by any previous attempt. There are portraits of the Heroes of the campaign, which have as much merit as novelty—being engraved medallions—perfect portraits in high relief.”’—Naval and Military Gazette. “ The eventful victory which these two splendid volumes are intended to com- memorate has had many historians, but none so good or comprehensive as Captain Siborne. His facility of access to official documents, both English and foreign, the assistance which he has received from the surviving Waterloo heroes of all ranks, and the zeal, energy, and talent, which he has displayed in the construction of his materials, have produced a record, not only of the battle itself, but of the whole Waterloo campaign, which is likely to be as enduring as it is creditable to his talents as a writer, and his reputation as a soldier. For ourselves we heartily thank Captain Siborne for his spirited volumes, and sincerely do we hope they will meet their due reward. Of this we are certain, they cannot be too soon in the hands, not only of every Officer of the Service, but also of every civil member of the community.” —United Service Gazette. «« We cannot feel our debt acquitted to Captain Siborne for the pleasure and instruc- tion his work has afforded us, if we did not bring our unqualified testimony to the minute accuracy of detail, the highly honourable and_ soldier-like spirit, and the admirable candour and fairness by which it is everywhere characterized. When the work was first announced for publication, we conceived great expectations from a history compiled by one whose access to every source of information was favoured both by interest in the highest quarters, and the circumstances of an official appointment on the staff. We were not disappointed. Such are the volumes before us—a Military Classic—and they will remain so while Waterloo is a word to stir the heart and nerve the arm of a British soldier.’—Dublin University, May. “We can declare in all sincerity that we have perused his narrative of marches and onslaughts with infinite satisfaction. He tells his tale with singular clearness. He is at home in all the varied movements and changes of position, &c.; and his account of Cavalry Charges, especially in the affair of Quatre Bras, the advance of columns and cannonading, sweep you onwards as if the scene described were actually passing under youreyes. His Plans and Charts too are excellent, and every way worthy of the modellist of the Field of Waterloo. We thank Captain S., not only for. the amusement we have derived from his performance, but for the opportunity with which the appearance of a genuine English History of the Battle of Waterloo supplies us, of refuting some of the errors regarding it into which vther historians have fallen.” Fraser's Mag. # Digitized by Microsoft® Published by T. & W. Boones, 29, New Bond Street. 7 The Ta1rD EDITION, in one vol. post 8vo. price 10s. 6d. bds. of ADVENTURES IN THE RIPPLE BRIGADE, IN THE PENINSULA, FRANCE, AND THE NETHERLANDS, FROM THE YEAR 1809 TO 1815, BY CAPTAIN JOHN KINCAID, Frrst BATTALIon. “ An admirable little book.” — Quarterly Review. ‘To those who are unacquainted with John Kincaid of the Rifles,—and few, we trow, of the old Peninsula bands are in this ignorant predicament, and to those who know him, we equally recommend the perusal of his book : it isa fac-simile of the man —a perfect reflection of his image, veluti in speculo. A capital Soldier, a pithy and graphic narrator, and a fellow of infinite jest. Captain Kincaid has given us, in this modest volume, the impress of his qualities, the beau ideal of a thorough-going Soldier of Service, and the faithful and witty history of some six years’ honest and triumphant fighting. “ There is nothing extant in a Soldier’s Journal, which, with so little pretension, paints with such truth and raciness the ‘domestic economy’ of campaigning, and the down-right business of handling the enemy. “ But we cannot follow further ;—recommending every one of our readers to pursue the Author himself to his crowning scene of Waterloo, where they will find him as quaint and original as at his debut. We assure them, it is not possible, by isolated extracts, to give a suitable impression of the spirit and originality which never flag from beginning to end of Captain Kincaid’s volume; in every page of which he throws out flashes of native humour, a tithe of which would make the fortune of a Grub-street Bookmaker.”— United Service Journal. “¢ His book has one fault, the rarest fault in books, it is too short.” Monthly Magazine, April. Also, by the same Author, Second Edition, in one vol. post 8vo. price 10s. 6d. RANDOM SHOTS FROM A RIFLEMAN. “ Tt is one of the most pithy, witty, soldier-like, and pleasant books in existence.” United Service Journal. “ The present volume is to the full as pleasant, and. what is still more strange, as original as the last. Criticism would become a sinecure if many such volumes were written : all left for us is to admire and recommend.”—WNew Monthly Magazine. “ The present volume is likely to add to his reputation. It is a useful Appendix to the larger works of Napier and other military commentators. It is never dull, tedious, technical, or intricate.”—Times. “ Those who have read Captain Kincaid’s Adventures in the Rifle Brigade will seize this volume with avidity, and having dashed through it, will lay it down with only one feeling of regret—that it is not longer.”— News. AN ESSAY ON THE PRINCIPLES AND CONSTRUCTION OF MILITARY BRIDGES, And the Passage of Rivers in Military Operations, By GENERAL SIR HOWARD DOUGLAS, Bart. K.S.C. &e. &e. Second Edition, containing much additional Matter and Plates. 8vo. price 20s. boards. “ Of this valuable work we expressed a very high opinion when it was first pub- lished ; and now that the able author has added much important new matter to it, we need only say that it is worthy of his own high reputation as a tactician and Military Engineer; and that no soldier in Europe can know his business thoroughly without consulting it.”— Literary Gazette. Digitized by Microsoft® 8 Published by T. & W. Boone, 29, New Bond Street. Elegantly bound in the Uniform of the Regiment, 1 vol. post 8vo. price 10s. 6d. THE ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN JOHN PATTERSON, With Notices of the Officers, Sc. of the 50th, or Queen’s Own Regiment, FROM 1807 TO 1821. DEDICATED BY PERMISSION TO QUEEN ADELAIDE. “‘ This volume contains a well-written, yet unvarnished narrative, of the adventures of the 50th foot, (better known as the ‘ Dirty Half-hundred,’ from their black facings), during the Peninsular war. It argues well for the bravery, as well as modesty, of Cap- tain Patterson, that throughout his work we have but little of himself, and mach of bis brother officers.”—Bell’s Messenger. “ Captain Patterson’s Adventures are the record of a brave soldier—of a dashing, high-minded British officer, who never fears a rival,and never knew what it was to have an enemy, or to hate any man. His descriptions are remarkable for their vivid- ness and accuracy, and his anecdotes will bear repetition once a week for life.” —Sun. “ Captain Patterson is one of the pleasantest of the numerous tribe of gallant officers who bas done so much credit to the British name, by fighting and writing with equal spirit.”—Constitutional. THE HISTORY OF THE GERMAN LEGION, FROM THE PERIOD OF ITS ORGANIZATION IN 1803, TO THAT OF ITS DISSOLUTION IN 1816. Compiled from Manuscript Documents, By N. LUDLOW BEAMISH, Esa. F.R.S., LaTE MasoR UNATTACHED. Two vols. 8vo. complete, with Plans and Coloured Plates of Costumes, price £1. 10s. The second volume sold separately, price 10s. “ The work is not like others we could name—a mere compilation from newspapers and magazines. Major Beamish has left no source of information unexplored; and the access he obtained to manuscript journals has enabled him to intersperse his general narrative with interesting personal anecdotes, that render this volume as delightful for those who read for amusement, as those who read for profit.” Atheneum. ‘« We are altogether much pleased with the volume, and heartily recommend it to the British public.” Literary Gazette. In post 8vo. price 5s. RECOLLECTIONS AND REFLECTIONS RELATIVE TO THE Duties of Troops composing the Advanced Corps of an Army, By LIEUT.-COLONEL I. LEACH, C.B., LATE OF THE RIFLE BRIGADE, Author of “‘ Rough Sketches of the Life of an Old Soldier.” Also, by the same Author, A SKETCH OFTHE SERVICES OF THE RIFLE BRIGADE, From its Formation to the Battle of Waterloo. In 8yo. price 2s. 6d. boards. Digitized by Microsoft® Published by T. & W. Boone, 29, New Bond Street. 9 In 2 vols. 8vo. with numerous plates, some coloured, price 36s. EXCURSIONS, ADVENTURES, AND FIELD SPORTS IN CEYLON; Its Commercial and Military Importance, and numerous advantages : to the British Emigrant. BY LIEUT.-COLONEL JAMES CAMPBELL, Late of the 45th and 50th Regiments, and for many years Commandant of the Districts of Galle, and the Seven Korles, and Judicial Agent of Government. “ These two volumes are full of interesting matter.”--Morning Herald. ““ We never wish to take up a pleasanter, more fresh spirited production than this of Colonel Campbell’s.”—Waval and Military Gazette. In 18mo. cloth, gilt leaves, price 28. 6d. ; or, postage free, 3s., which may be sent in postage stamps, HINTS ro SUBALTERNS or toe BRITISH ARMY. By HENRY HARDBARGAIN, Late —— Regt. Dedicated to WiLLIAM Hiaernson Durr, Esq., &e. &c. &e. “ Scribimus indocti doctique.” Containing—Shetches of Commanding Officers—The Art of getting Leave of Absence—Military Miseries—Glossary, &c. “T have also added, for the information of those non-military readers who may deign to peruse this small volume, a Glossary of those exclusively military terms, they might otherwise be at a loss to comprehend; and which, the profound ignorance that great part of the world are in with respect to military matters, renders it most necessary to explain :—for instance, I assure my readers, that the other night when I was dining out, an old gentleman asked me whether the officers who were on guard in London, on the day of the Derby, did not receive a compensatory pension from government; nay, so firmly convinced was he that such was the case, that I had some difficulty in per- suading him that his impression on the subject was erroneous.” —Preface. In 2 vols. 8vo. cloth, price 24s. HISTORICAL RECORD OF THE ROYAL MARINE FORCES From their Formation to the Present Time, INCLUDING AN ACCOUNT OF THEIR SERVICES IN CHINA, BY P. H. NICOLAS, LIEUT. ROYAL MARINES. . “Mr. Nicolas has had a wide and fertile field to work upon, and excellently has he turned his materials to account. Impelled by a sincere attachment for bis old com- rades, by an ardent desire for their welfare, by the very natural wish for a more minute and connected narrative of their daring career than bas hitherto been given to the world, he has produced a luminous and comprebensive work, than which none can be better of its class, and which reflects equal credit upon his feelings as an officer, and his talents as a writer.”—United Service Gazette. . “These volumes cannot fail to prove eminently acceptable to the members of the gallant corps, whose honours they record, and generally indeed to the military service of both arms,”—Naval and Military Gazette. Digitized by Microsoft® 10 Published by T. & W. Boone, 29, New Bond Street. NEW LIFE OF LORD NELSON. SECOND EDITION. In 2 vols. 8vo. Illustrated with 4 original Portraits, Engravings and Facsimiles. MEMOIRS OF THE LIFE OF VICE-ADMIRAL LORD VISCOUNT NELSON, K.B., DUKE OF BRONTE, ETC. ETC. ETC. DERIVED PRINCIPALLY PROM HIS PRIVATE CORRESPONDENCE, HITHERTO UNPUBLISHED, BY THOMAS JOSEPH PETTIGREW, ESQ., F.R.S., F.S.A. DOCTOR OF PHILOSOPHY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF GOTTINGEN, ETC. ETC. ETC. ConsIDERING the number of Lives* that have been written of the Vice-Admiral Lord Viscount Nelson, and the voluminous Collection of his Dispatches and Letters published by the late Sir Nicholas Harris Nicolas, it may be reasonably be inferred, that there remains nothing further in connexion with Nelson and his varied exploits to be said—that, in fact, the subject is completely exhausted ; yet, upon examination it will be found that there exists a variety of interesting particulars unconfirmed— unexplained—and even mysterious. The full development of these, it must be obvious, is only to be obtained from the PRIVATE CORRESPONDENCE of the cele- brated hero. It is well known that a very intimate, indeed, an almost daily correspondence was maintained between I.ord Nelson and Lady Hamilton; and in the Letters and Docu- ments, now to be presented to the public, a Diary will literally be found containing his thoughts and reflections upon the passing events, public and private, during the course of his distinguished career. But the materials from which this new Life of Nelson is composed are not confined to the letters which passed between Lord Nelson and Lady Hamilton—they embrace also those of the Kiug and Queen of Naples, the Emperor of Russia, the King of Sardinia, Prince Charles Felix of Savoy, many distinguished Naval Commanders and celebrated Diplomatists of the time. Among these may be mentioned:—H.R.H. the Duke of Clarence, Earl St. Vincent, Earl Spencer, Earl of Bristol, Lord Elgin, Lord St. Helens, Lord Hobart, Lord Sidmouth, Lord Collingwood, Lord Melville, Lord Eldon, Lord Grenville, Lord Hood, Lord William Gordon; the Hon. Nicholas Vansittart, the Hon. H. Addington, the Hon. Hugh Elliot, the Hon. General Sir W. Stewart, Sir Thomas Troubridge, Sir T. M. Hardy, Sir Richard Keats, Sir J. T. Duckworth, Sir John Orde, Sir Hercules Ross, Sir Brooke Boothby, Sir Sidney Smith, Sir Alexander Ball, Sir Evan Nepean, Sir Edward Berry, Sir George Rose, Sir A. S. Hamond, Sir William Hoste, Sir Henry Blackwood, Sir Pulteney Malcolm, Sir James Crawford, Sir Thomas Louis, Sir Ben- jamin Hallowell, Sir J. Sutton, Sir Manley Dixon, Sir J. Hillyar, Sir Thos. Staines, General Sir Joun Acton, General Dumouriez, Admiral Tchitchagoff, Count Bernstorff, Count Panin, Adjutant-General Lindholm, Governor Balaschotf, Captain Lloyd, Captain Parker, Captain Langford, Rev. A. J. Scott, (Chaplain to Lord Nelson), John Scott, Esq. (Secretary), William Beckford, Esq., R. Payne Knight, Esq., Richard Bulkeley, Esq., William Hayley, Esq., Alexander Davison, Esq., John Tyson, Esq., Perkius Magra, Esq. (Consul-General at Tunis), Lambton Este, Esq., Rev. C. Este, Abbé Campbell, Dr. Baird, &c. Rev. Edmund Nelson (the father of Lord Nelson), * By Clarke and M‘Arthur, Charnock, White, Churchill, Harrison, Southey, &c- Digitized by Microsoft® Published by T. & W. Boone, 29, New Bond Street 11 Lady Nelson, Josiah Nisbet (her son), Rev. William afterwards Earl Nelson, Mrs. Matcham (Lord Nelson’s sister), Manrice Nelson, Esq. (his brother), &c. &c. The light thrown upon the transactions which took place from the battle of the Nile, August 1, 1798, to that of Trafalgar, October 21, 1805, in the course of this extensive correspondence will be found most interesting ; so also will the minute particulars relating to the conduct and flight of the Neapolitan Royal Family, the surrender of the Castles of Uovo and Nuovo, the Blockade of La Valetta, the Con- vention of El Arish, &e. &c. UPWARDS OF SIX HUNDRED LETTERS AND DOCUMENTS, WHICH HAVE NEVER BEFORE BEEN PRINTED, and the existence of which were scarcely known, will appear in these Memoirs, which have been written with a view of completing the history of one of the bravest and most patriotic Admirals that ever adorned the British Navy. It was originally the intetion of the author simply to have edited the Correspondence, and published it as Supplementary volumes to those which have already appeared ; but upon examination the documents were found to be too numerous and too interesting to be disposed of in that manner, They embrace such a variety of topics, public and private—correct so many errors and misconceptions that have gone forth and been very generally believed—enter so unreservedly into the subjects to which they refer— and altogether render such a complete picture of Lord-Nelson’s mind and character— that it has been adjudged most proper to arrange them as a distinct publication, in the form of a New Memoir, illustrative of the career of the Hero. Although it has been necessary in this view to describe the various actions and incidents in which Nelson was concerned, it has been thought proper not to enter upon minute details which have already appeared, and which by those who may be professionally interested in such a matter will readily be found in the previously published Lives ; bnt rather to endeavour to combine, in the form of a Narrative, the Correspondence alluded to with the par- ticular events to which they apply, and which form so interesting a portion of our Naval History. OPINIONS OF THE PRESS. “Mr. Pettigrew has executed his task well, and the public are indebted to him for what may be designated “The” Life of Nelson. We must not omit to mention that these interesting volumes contain so much classic lore to Naval officers that they must find their place in the library of every ship that floats.”— Nautical Magazine. “It is impossible to peruse these two volumes without feeling that Mr. Petti- grew has rendered signal service to British history and to the memory of the renowned Sailor.”— United Service Gazette. “We deem it a very extraordinary publication, since it pours a fresh flood of original papers before us, ulthough we had been led to believe that every available scrap written by Nelson had been gleaned, and was already printed.” United Service Journal. “ We conclude to-day the review of these most interesting volumes by recommending our friends to read them carefully ; they will find many, very many passages and letters that will explain in the most lucid manner the motives that have actuated the great commander in circumstances of difficulty and doubt.’’—Nautical Standard. “ This is a book which is likely to be read with avidity. It is the private history of Lord Nelson, the one which sets furth most unmistakeably the true lineaments of the man. The entire Hamilton correspondence has been at the command of Mr. Pettigrew and he has turned it to good account. It is full of interest.”—Atlas. “Mr. Pettigrew has made admirable use of his materials, and his Memoirs of Nelson will be read, we are persuaded, much more generally than even that model of biography ‘ Southey’s Life.’”’—Norfolk Chronicle. Digitized by Microsoft® 12 Published by T. & W. Boone, 23, New Bond Street. Fourth Edition, 18mo. cloth, gilt leaves, price 2s. 6d. SHORT WHIST, BY F. P. WATSON, ESQ. To which is added, LONG WHIsT, WITH INSTRUCTIONS FOR YOUNG PLAYERS, BY ADMIRAL JAMES BURNEY. REVISED BY F. P, WATSON, ESQ. SEcoND EDITION, 18mo. cloth, gilt leaves, price 3s. HAND-BOOK to the GAME OF BILLIARDS, ADDRESSED TO THE NOVICE AND THE PROFICIENT, With the Laws and 44 Diagrams, To which is added, POOL, BY COLONEL B #* * * * #, “This is a very useful little book, and ought to be in the hands ofall beginners.”” Bell’s Life in London. « All that the Billiard player can acquire from instruction, he may gain from this hand-book ; and having well studied it, it will be his own fault if, by practice, he do not become a proficient in this most delightful pastime.””—Argus. “ Every Billiard player, be he novice or proficient, will find this a manual adapted exactly to his wishes.”—Court Journal, SrxtH Epirion, 18mo. sewed, price 1s. HINTS TO THE CHARITABLE, BEING PRACTICAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE PROPER REGULATION OF PRIVATE CHARITY:. CONTAINING LETTERS ON: THE COAL FUND, | THE LOAN FUND, THE WIFE’S SOCIETY, THE CHILDRENS’ ENDOWMENT THE PENNY CLUB, SOCIETY, THE BENEFIT SOCIETY, &e, &e. &e. BY THE HON. AND REV. S. G. OSBORNE, Author of “ Old Rainy Day,” 8vo. price 3d.; ‘‘ Hand-bill for the Cottage Wall,” &c. Also by the same Author, Third Edition, 18mo. price 1s. HIntTs FOR THE AMELIORATION OF THE MORAL CONDITION OF A VILLAGE POPULATION. CONTENTS. THE SQUIRE, KEEPERS OF PUBLIC HOUSES, THE FARMER, THE LABOURER, THE TRADESMAN, FEMALE SERVICE, EDUCATION, &c. &c. Digitized by Microsoft® Digitized by Microsoft® Digitized by Microsoft® Digitized by Microsoft® Digitized by Microsoft® Digitized by Microsoft® Sask cr i? Cat crore ares Rens Siac Be ay eperyen ey