Production Note Cornell University Library produced this volume to preserve the informational content of the deteriorated original. The best available copy of the original has been used to create this digital copy. It was scanned bitonally at 600 dots per inch resolution and compressed prior to storage using ITU Group 4 compression. Conversion of this material to digital files was supported by the Andrew W. Mellon Foundation. Digital file copyright by Cornell University Library 1995. This volume has been scanned as part of The Making of America Project, a cooperative endeavor undertaken to preserve and enhance access to historical material from the nineteenth century.RECLUSE ISLAND.LAKE GEORGE: Its Scenes and Characteristics, with Glimpses of the Olden Times. TO WHICH IS ADDED SOME ACCOUNT OP TICONDEROGA, LAKE LUZERNE, Schroon Lake and the Adirondacks. WITH AN APPENDIX, CONTAINING NOTES ON LAKE CHAMPLAIN. By B. F. De Costa. NEW YORK: Anson D. F. Randolph & Company, No. 770 Broadway.Entered according to an Act of Congress, in the year 1868, by B. F. De Costa, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, for the Southern District of New York ROBERT RUTTER BINDER, 84 BEEKMAN STREET,Preface This book is designed to convey, in a compact form, all that general readers may desire to know about Lake George. The author was originally attracted to the subject by its rare charms, and afterwards persuaded to throw his thoughts into the present shape, for the reason that a book of this kind was actually needed; especially as Lake George has suffered so much at the hands of magazine writers and others, who have done little more than to transcribe popular errors. In preparing this work the author has sifted out the legends from the facts, which, in the history of this Lake, are quite as romantic as any fiction, and has endeavored to base his statements on original authorities. That no lake in America has greater claims to consideration, is abundantly proved by the increasing throngs of visitors who assemble at the Lake every summer. This is pre-eminently “ Health’s cheerful haunt.” The pure air, the lovely scenes, and the numberless localities consecrated by song and story, form an attraction to which few persons could be insensible.IV. PREFACE. The tourist at the Lake will find this work a complete guide, and by following the author’s suggestions he will gain an introduction to every point of interest. In sending out this, the Third Edition, the Author has made such corrections as have been rendered necessary by recent improvements on some of the lines of travel; and has likewise added a chapter on Lake Luzerne. Stuyvesant Park, New York, 1871.Contents. Chapter I..................L’Overture. Chapter II. . . . . . . Down the Lake. Chapter HE. . . . The Lake in the Seasons. Chapter IY. ..... Among the Islands. Chapter Y............... In General. Chapter YI.............Colonial Days. Chapter YII. ..........Colonial Days. Chapter YIII. . . . Revolutionary Scenes. Chapter IX................. Ticonderoga. Chapter X. . . . . Schroon Lake and thjt Adirondacks. Chapter XI. . # , Lake Luzerne.Lake George. L’OVERTURE. CHAPTER I. Scenes must be beautiful, which, daily viewed, Please daily, and whose novelty survives Long knowledge and the scrutiny of years. — Cowper. Situation —Extent — Glen’s Falls — First View—Prospect Mountain — Black Mountain—The Bolton View — Historic Associations. > we must speak of the situa- / of Lake George, which lies at the head of a valley of the St. Lawrence extending southward Pft? through Vermont and New York, ( \ and reaching nearly to the Hudson River. It is about thirty-five miles long, and from one mile to four miles wide. The broadest part is found about eight miles £ from Ticonderoga, while it at-. tains its greatest depth at a point four miles farther north. It is elevated, probably, about three hundred feet above the sea; and, according to fair estimates, it must stand8 L*OVERTURE. two hundred and forty feet above the level of Lake Champlain, the receptacle of its surplus water, which passes through a creek, and flows over two picturesque falls. Surrounded on all sides, except at the outlet, by beautiful hills, and mountains of primitive rock, it receives from their springs and brooks an unfailing supply of water that is sufficiently sparkling and pure to justify the name—St. Sacrament—which the lake originally received. At some remote period, this whole region was swept over by a great deluge which left the country far and wide covered with loose earth and gravel, and gave to the lake a floor of beautiful white sand. This, in connection with the crystal purity of the water, renders objects visible at a considerable depth. Only a small portion of the lake is seen at a single view. There is no broad and striking expanse of water. This lake (like Como and Windermere) assumes more of the character of a noble river flanked by highlands. Winding sweetly on its way among the verdant hills, it gradually unfolds its wealth of beauty, surprising and delighting the tourist at every advance by some new and exquisite scene. In approaching the lake from Albany, the tourist takes the Saratoga railroad, and, passing north, reaches Glen’s Falls, whence he goes on nine miles by coach, or else he continues on to Whitehall to take the steamer for Ticonderoga, and approaches the lake from the north. Most persons, however, prefer thel’ overture. 9 round trip, thus going by one route and returning by the other. In taking the first, the traveller will do well to secure a seat upon the top of the coach, and thus be the better prepared to get the full benefit of the journey. Before starting, he will desire to visit points of interest in this vicinity. The scene of the death of Jane McCrea will attract some, who insist that the young lady was murdered, and not accidentally killed. Others will visit the Falls of the Hudson, which are close at hand. The river makes a descent of about sixty feet in a succession of falls. When the stream is full the sight is magnificent and one that well repays the trouble of a journey. The bed and walls of the river are composed of blue, fossiliferous liipestone, and the scenery is bold and striking. The admirers of Cooper must not fail to explore the falls and visit the cave under the rocks below, where the novelist lays the most thrilling scenes depicted in The Last of the Mohicans. It was in this cave that Hayward and Cora found refuge ; where David struck his pitch-pipe, and sang the “ Isle of Wight ” to the chiming of the music of the falls. Leaving Glen’s Falls, the coach rolls on through a beautiful undulating region, whose scenery cannot fail to charm the eye. Soon after leaving Glen’s Falls, French Mountain rises to view; and, after passing the Notch, at about three miles from the lake, is seen the monument to Colonel Williams, who was killed in theIO l’ overture. Battle of Lake George, fought on this spot, Sept. 8, 1755. This monument was erected by the Alumni of Williams College, upon the rough boulder upon which, it is said, Williams stood when he received his death-wound.1 A little further on may be seen “ Bloody Pond,” where Baron Dieskau’s troops halted after BLOODY BOND. their defeat, and where, at sunset, they were again attacked, and routed with much slaughter, and, it is said, mingled their blood with the water of this shallow pond, which in the season is covered with beautiful white lilies. (1) — Col. Williams was buried near where he fell. His grave was opened about thirty years ago, and not long since his skull was in the possession of a physician in South Carolina.L ’ OVERTURE. II About half a mile from the village of Caldwell, the south, or upper end of Lake George, comes in sight, glittering among the verdant hills like a sea of glass. This view is one of extreme beauty, yet in the course of his rambles down the lake, the traveller will obtain others that are finer. In order to obtain an extended view of the lake, it is necessary to climb some one of the mountains on the border. A fine view may be had from the eminence called Rattlesnake Cobble, which rises south of the village of Caldwell. A mountain road leaves the highway opposite the Fort William Henry Hotel, and winds around the base of the mountain, through a fine wood, enabling the tourist to walk easily half way up the ascent. He then leaves the road and moves directly toward the summit, and, in the absence of a path, climbs over fallen trees, ledges and loose rocks, which task a strong man’s strength. On the top of the Cobble there is an open space in the woods, which forms a beautiful out-look upon the lake. Here the village of Caldwell is seen directly below our feet, while half of the lake, dotted with green isles, and fenced in by mountains, stretches away before the sight until lost in the haze, out of which Black Mountain looms, apparently barring the way. The view from this point is one that delights the eye; and though the neighboring and much loftier Prospect Mountain, with its beaten path, is oftener climbed, it can afford no such satisfactory view of the lake. The12 I/O VERTURE. glimpse gained from that mountain may be far more grand, but it is certainly not superior in beauty. Indeed, at the present time, the view from the apex of Prospect Mountain is wholly obstructed by the trees. It is found, when reached, to be a place “ Where to the north, pine trees in prospect rise; Where to the east, pine trees assail the skies; ■Where to the west, pine trees obstruct the view; Where to the south, pine trees forever grew! ” In fact the climber sees nothing else. Yet, by descending a few rods, he will find an opening where he may get a tolerable glimpse of the country towards the east and south. Three hours will suffice for the trip up Cobble Hill, which may be safely achieved, notwithstanding the stories that he will hear about snakes; while to ascend Prospect Mountain will ordinarily consume the greater portion of a day. But no one should leave the lake without ascending both. Nor would it be -altogether unprofitable to climb the French Mountain, on the east side of the lake, above which the traveller first beholds the morning sun. A still more lovely view may be had at Bolton, ten miles down the lake, from an eminence also called Prospect Mountain, where the air “ Nimbly and sweetly recommends itself Unto our gentle senses.” The Bolton view has a wider range, and is more com-L ’ overture. 13 prehensive than that at the head of the lake, in addition to being more attractive. Here we take our second lesson in the geography of the lake, and, overlooking the Narrows, (which in early times was called the First Narrows, to distinguish them from the Narrows at the outlet), we get a glimpse of the region beyond. Seen from this point, the lake loses the crowded aspect which it wears while we are upon its shores, and the islands appear reduced in size. Black Mountain, however, affords a view which, for grandeur, eclipses everything else. About three miles north of Fourteen Mile Island, in a small clearing, stands an old house used in the winter by the Black Mountain lumbermen. This is the point of departure in making the ascent. Taking one of the rough roads used in winter in hauling logs, we follow it for about three miles, which brings us to a pond, situated a mile from the summit, and which in the summer is flecked with lilies. At this point we turn to the left and clamber on as best we may. Up we go along the dry bed of winter torrents, and over loose debris and huge rocks magnificently embossed wTith rich lichens. Here and there in a crevice may be found a spring at which we can quench our thirst, while beautiful harebells delight the eye. This mountain does not afford any opportunities for the study of Alpine flora, though the botanist may occasionally find the sand-wort (Greenlandica arenaria), which bears a pretty white flower worth preserving.14 l’oy ertuke, This, like all mountains, is very deceptive. In a transparent atmosphere its summit does not appear very distant, yet as we go forward, it recedes and beckons us on and up, while occasionally we lose sight of it altogether. It is very provoking sometimes to be obliged to scramble for two hours over the rocks to reach a point that you expected to reach in a few minutes. Yet the journey is not without its rich compensations, and, as we mount up, we find ourselves slowly rising into a new world. Finally, we stand on the bare and desolate peak of Black Mountain, where the eye sweeps the entire horizon, and sees the green hills* everywhere rolling like billows, while the lake reposes in the vale below, mute and motionless as a silver sea. This is a place eminently calculated to inspire lofty sentiments. With the poet one may say: “ There as thou standst The haunts of men below thee, and around The mountain summits, thy expanding heart Shall feel a kindred with that loftier world To which thou art translated, and partake The enlargement of thy vision.” Here, however, few persons rise in their inspiration above the need of bodily nourishment, as the remains of numerous bottles abundantly testify. From this elevation the scene is one of great variety. Besides the lake at our feet, Champlain stretches away toward the north; in the south may be seen the Hudson, glittering like a silver thread; in the north-l’oyeetuee. 15 west are the Adirondacks; and away in the east are the Green Mountains, with Camel’s Hump. It is interesting to watch the steamer Minnehaha running up the lake from Ticonderoga, winding her way among the numerous islands, and leaving a trail of light on the surface of the calm lake. In visiting Black Mountain, strangers should take a guide and start early in the day, or else prepare to spend the night somewhere on its side. But, although so much has been said of the mountain-views, we must not forget the beautiful walks that are to be found among the wild old woods on the hillsides and along the shores. In the language of another, we may say: “ Nor is the stately scene without Its sweet, secluded treasures, Where hearts that there the crowd may find Their own exclusive pleasures; Deep, charming shades for pensive thought, The hours to wear away in, And vaulted isles of whispering pines, For lover's feet to stray in." Long ago the beauty of Lake George began to attract the attention of travellers, many of whom were foreigners. It was even then the general opinion, that no lake exceeded it in loveliness. By some visitors, it was called “ the Como of America,” and others compared it to the lakes of Westmoreland and some of the Scotch lakes; while all agreed that it must eventually become a popular resort. The predictioni6 l’o yerture. has been more than justified by the thousands of tourists who now annually visit Lake George. This lake is adorned with no ivied ruin or lordly hall. Besides Caldwell, (a summer convenience, more for use than ornament,) there are only four villages, — Bolton, Dresden, Hague, and Ticon-deroga. Here and there the boatman finds a farmhouse or cottage, but he may sail for miles among certain districts, without seeing a sign of human life. And yet there is no lack of antiquity. Among the lofty hills he will find peaks that were laid bare before Eden bloomed, towers more ancient than Babel, and nature-carved crags that rejoiced in the sun’s warm rays before Memnon began to sing. As with the scenery so with its historic associations, in which no lake can be richer. There is hardly a spot, either on land or water, that has not been the scene of some warlike exploit or heroic adventure. Forming in colonial times a part of the great highway between Canada and New York, it was often the chosen battle-ground of the French and English, who, in connection with hostile Indian tribes, waged a barbarous war on each other. Often was the lake traversed by the soldier, the savage, and the monk. Hither came the brave Montcalm, the pious Father Jogues, the good Roubaud, Rigaud, St. Ours, and Courcelles, together with Abercrombie, Howe, Lord Amherst, Putnam, Rogers the Ranger, Johnson, Williams, "King Hendrick,” and Stark, and a multitude ofl’o veeture. 17 others who are invested with historic renown. The story of their deeds contains all the elements of romance. Cooper in his novels has invested the lake with a thrilling interest, but the literal history is ofttimes stranger than the. overwrought fiction. It is also interesting to be reminded of the fact that the French pushed their discoveries in this direction in early times, and that Champlain, who heard of the Hudson River through the Indians, started on his way thither, intending to go by Lake St. Sacrament, about the same time that Henry Hudson was sailing up to Albany, which was four years before the Dutch took possession of New York, and eleven years before the English Puritans landed on Plymouth Rock. In times of peace the Indian hunted the deer which abounded in the woods, or, gliding over the waters in his canoe, darted his spear at the trout. But when the signal for war was given, the lake became alive with armed men all eager for the fight. Then those sweet and tranquil scenes upon which the tourist now delights to gaze were obscured by the smoke of battle, and the solitudes echoed with the rattle of the musket and the boom of artillery. Rogers and Putnam both traversed the lake, with cannon mounted on their boats, which scattered the Indian canoes in fragments on the water; and in the winter they traversed the ice on skates, and, after the fight, carried their wounded home on sleds. The imaginative mind can easily re-animate the lake with the splendid armies ofi8 l’o tehture. Abercrombie, Amherst, and Montcalm, numbering from nine to sixteen thousand men each, and sailing in boats and batteaux, marshalled in beautiful array, with all the pomp and circumstance of war. How peaceful it appears to-day at the head of the lake around the ruins of Fort George, and the grass-grown F O R T C, T. OJtC E . site of Fort William Henry! Yet here, through long and bloody wars, the cross of St. George waved defiance to the Lilies of France. Here forts and palisades wTent up, opposing trenches were dug, and mines sprung. Here the iron-mouthed cannon from the narrow embrasures of Munro, belched out death by day, while the huge bomb with its fiery trail came shrieking from the camp of Montcalm by night. Here, too, was the scene of the massacre of the English by the French Indians of St. Francis. But nowI/O VEKTUPvE. 19 all signs of bloodshed and strife have passed away. The hapless victims are forever at rest; and the descendants of the Abenakis, from the ancient village of their fathers, now unconsciously pitch their summer tents, and pursue the harmless trade of the basket-maker, over their graves.DOWN THE LAKE. CHAPTER II. The crowded steamer leaves the village pier; Its paddles splash; it flaunts a gaudy flag: And brazen music loudens into noise. The Start — French Mountain — The Islands — Bolton — The Narrows — Tongue Mountain — Black Mountain— Buck Mountain — Sabbath Day Point — Hague — Friends* Point — Anthony's Nose — Rogers’ Slide — Prisoners’ Island. HE tourist, in order to view the lake, will find it necessary to pass over its entire length in the steamer, which runs regularly to Ticonderoga, going down in the morning and returning in the afternoon. Leaving the little quay at Fort William Henry Hotel, the Minnehaha glides out into the centre of the lake, leaving behind a long line of foam. The high, wood-crowned mountain on the east side is It terminates in the beautiful point called Plum's Point. More than a mile downDOWN THE LAKE. 21 the lake, on the west side, close to the shore, is the first island which we pass. It is called Tea Island, TEA ISLAND. and is a perfect gem. In 1828 a “Tea-house”1 was kept there to accommodate visitors, which fact accounts for its present name. A mile and a half farther on is Diamond Island. An account of its early use by Burgoyne, as a military depot, and of the defeat of Colonel Brown at this place, will be found in the chapters relating to the history of the lake. When the country was first settled, the island was overrun with rattlesnakes. One writer says, that the people seldom ventured upon it. Anbury2 writes, on very good authority, that, before the Devolution, “ A batteau, in sailing up the lake, overset near Diamond Island, and, among other things, it (1) — Stewart’s Trav., Vol. i., p. 121. (2) — Anbury’s Trav., Vol. i., p. 3S5.22 down the lake. contained several hogs, which swam to the shore, as did the Canadians, who were rowing. The latter, apprehensive of the rattlesnakes, climbed up trees for the night, and the next morning, observing a batteau, they hailed the people in it who took them in.” It is called Diamond Island on account of the beautiful quartz crystals obtained here. Silliman, who was here in 1819, says: “ The crystals are hardly surpassed by any in the world for transparency and perfection of form. They are, as usual, the six-sided prism, and are frequently terminated at both ends by six-sided pyramids. These last, of course, must be found loose, or, at least, not adhering to any rock; those which are broken off have necessarily only one pyramid.”1 Writing at this time, he says: “ There is a solitary miserable cottage upon this island, from which we saw the smoke ascending; — a woman who lives in it, is facetiously called, ‘ The Lady of the Lake/ but, probably, no Malcolm Greeme and Ehoderick Dhu will ever contend on her account.”2 In 1821 he visited the lake again, when he remarks of Diamond Island: “ This small island, scarcely covering the area of a common kitchen garden, is inhabited by a family who occupy a small but comfortable house, and constantly explore the rocks for crystals. . . . At present, they are scarcely obtained at all, except by breaking the rocks.”3 (1)— Silliman's Trav., p. 153. (2)—ib. p. 152. (3)—ib. p. 168.DOWN THE LAKE. 23 Near by, on the shore, there was a place called Diamond Point, where crystals were also obtained by the same man — an Indian named Sampson Paul. It is said that he once killed an immense panther at this place, as the animal was coming out of the lake benumbed with cold. The little bay beyond this point is Montcalm’s Bay. Beyond Plum’s Point is Dunham’s Bay, where some say Colonel Brown landed after his defeat at Diamond Island. One mile beyond, are the Three Sisters, though properly there are only two islands; and a little way east is Long Island, where Rogers camped one winter’s night in 1758, after having been defeated by the French. In the bay, farther to the right, is the hotel called “ Trout Pavilion,” one resort of those who are fond of fine fish. As we pass on to Bolton, which is ten miles from Caldwell, we leave on the west side the islands called The Three Brothers. To the right is a large and heavily wooded island, called Dome Island, on account of its resemblance to a dome. West of Dome Island is Recluse Island,1 a lovely spot, commanding a fine view of the lake in all directions. This island is owned by Rufus Wattles* Esq., (1) — This is the island which, in January of 1868, was reported as sunk by an earthquake, and which, consequently, became so famous in the newspapers. It stands to-day as fair as ever, and will last as long as the lake, it being nothing less than a part of the lake's bed, which was lifted up into its present position during that dim antiquity to which the formation of this region must be referred.24 J> OWN THE LAKE. of New York, who has here erected the only private residence yet to be found on the islands of the lake. It is a neat cottage, embowered among the trees, where a genial hospitality is gracefully dispensed. On the sides of this island, facing the Narrows and Bolton, are the remains of some earthworks, which were probably erected by Abercrombie's forces, who, in 1758, were stationed on the lake. Near by, is an islet, often called Sloop Island, or Ship Island. In sailing down the lake, it appears in the distance like a small ship under sail. In 1851, it was visited by Parodi, the famous singer, who erected a rude cross, which still remains. Hence the island has sometimes been called by her name. The steamer now heads in for the landing at Bolton, three-fourths of a mile distant, and one of the most charming parts of the lake. After touching at the landing, the Minnehaha starts for Fourteen Mile Island, which is four miles from Bolton, and located at the foot of Shelving Bock, on the right of the entrance to the Narrows. As we pass towards this spot, we leave Green Island on the left, beyond which, in the mouth of Northwest Bay, is the spot called, (with little taste or reason,) Hog Island. Directly in front is that beautiful elevation, called, from its shape, Tongue Mountain, and which, for a distance of six miles, forms the east side of Northwest Bay. As we approach Fourteen Mile Island, we get a just view of the Narrows. At this point the sides of the lakeDOWN THE LAKE. 25 approach each other, and the space between is nearly filled np with clusters of islands, of various shapes and sizes, so that the steamer is obliged to wind carefully through. At a distance no passage can be seen, and THE NARROWS. the islands, covered with foliage, resemble a tongue of land, stretching across the lake, forming what often appears like an impassible barrier. At first, we look in vain for islands and a passage through. So it was on our last trip down the lake; but, on a nearer approach, the passage widened, and the little rifts in the woods, here and there, opened like celestial gates. Then “ The shaggy mound no longer stood Emerging from entangled wood; But, wave-encircled, seemed to float, Like castle girdled with its moat: Yet broader floods extending still Divide them from the parent hill, Till each, retiring, claims to be, An islet in an inland sea.” But before going through, we stop at the landing, and have time to observe the beauty of the place and26 DOWN THE LAKE. its rare adaptation as a summer resort. This site has advantages that are found nowhere else on the lake, and travellers who have the time will find it much to their advantage to spend some days here. Note also the group of islands called the Hen and Chickens, which lie near the east shore. On the west side, close by Tongue Mountain, is an island, the character of which may be gathered from its name, — Flea Island. In passing through the Narrows, we find ourselves in the very heart of the lake, surrounded on every side by scenes that delight the eye. Black Mountain looms up directly before us. According to barometrical calculations, it is 2,878 feet above tide water, and is the highest mountain near the lake. It is banded around its sides with alternate lines of maple, pine, and birch, which thin out by degrees as they rise, until, two-thirds of the way up, the bare rocks chiefly appear, sentinelled here and there by a few dead trunks, while the top of the mountain stands out completely divested of verdure, and dark, threatening, and bare. The view from the summit is one of much grandeur. It is readily ascended with the aid of a guide. Around its scarred and rifted sides, often swept by fire, we see the work of time and weather, which “ Down the lake in masses, threw Crags, knolls, and mounds confusedly hurl’d, The fragments of an earlier world.” The next islands to be noted are the Hatchet Islands, so called, from an Indian hatchet once foundDOWN THE LAKE. 27 there. On the west, in the curved side of Tongue Mountain, close to the shore, nearer than the steamer usually goes, is a double echo, the sounds made there being repeated from two distinct quarters at the same instant. On the west shore, farther on, is Half-Way Island, which marks the centre of the lake, being half way to Ticonderoga. Beyond Black Mountain, is next seen the Sugar Loaf, a spur of the former mountain, which now loses the symmetrical and imposing aspect that it presented from the Narrows, and seems to sink down, at the same time taking the appearance of a formless mass of rock, scooped out into deep ravines. Some persons fancy that in this vicinity they are able to detect a form in the north part of the mountain, which resembles an elephant’s back, and hence it has sometimes been called Elephant’s Ridge. Along the base of this mountain, may be seen the Floating Battery Islands. Opposite the Ridge is Harbor Island, the scene of Montcalm’s first skirmish with the English. Next to it is Vicar’s Island. On the right appears the little hamlet of Dresden, nestling in Bosom Bay. On the west is Buck Mountain, about eight hundred feet high, the side of which towards the Lake forms a sort of palisade. At one time, the deer were extremely plenty in this entire neighborhood. In 1802, Dr. Dwight, the grave divine, joined in the hunt, and captured a deer in the lake. The deer are usually hunted by dogs and driven into the water, where they are28 DOWN THE LAKE. captured or killed. Buck Mountain received its name from the fact, that a buck, pursued by a hunter and his dogs, leaped from the precipice overhanging the lake, and was literally impaled alive on a sharp-pointed tree projecting below. Silliman, when on the lake, saw the man who drove the buck. Chasing the animal out of the woods, toward the open place which looks down at such a tremendous height upon the lake below, he believed that, with the help of his hounds, he was sure of his game. From afar, The hunter marked that mountain high, The lone lake’s western boundary, And deemed the stag must turn to hay, Where that huge rampart barred the way: Already, glorying in his prize, Measured his antlers with his eyes; For the death-wound and death-halloo, Muster’d his breath, his whinyard drew.” But he was disappointed at last, for the poor beast, now driven to desperation, had less fear of the precipice than of the dogs, and, reaching th^Pbrink, sprang forward into the air, and descending, met his cruel £ate upon a sharp tree below. As we sail on, Black Mountain rises behind us, and begins to assume the symmetry and commanding height which it completely loses while the traveller is sailing under its brow. The next place, on the west side of the lake, is the projecting tongue of land known as Sabbath Day Point. This name was given to the spot at an early day, though for what reason itDOWN THE LAKE. 29 is impossible now to say. Perhaps it was on account of the general aspect of peace which usually prevails. Magazine writers and others1 say, that the place was so called by Abercrombie, in 1758, when, as they aver, he halted here on Sunday morning to refresh his troops, before proceeding to attack Ticonderoga. But a reference to the almanac shows that it was on a Wednesday, and not on a Sunday, that he landed here. Nor, as others say, was the name given by Lord Amherst the year following. In fact, the French officers of Montcalm’s army, in their official reports, dated one year before Abercrombie came to the lake, call the place Sabbath Lay Point, a name by which it was at that time generally known by both the French and English. SABBATH DAY POINT. During the Revolution, it is said, a fight occurred here between some Militia and a party of Tories and Indians. The Americans gained the victory, the killed and wounded of the enemy numbering about forty. The view up the lake from this point is one of rare beauty. And look — Black Mountain is now (X)—See Lossing’s Field Book, Vol. i., p. 115, N. 2.3<> D 0 WN THE LAKE. fully itself once more, lifting up its dark, but gracefully defined peak in sharp contrast with the deep blue sky, while all the surrounding parts of the landscape, which form the accessories of this mountain, sink into their true and subordinate positions. Throughout the entire central portion of the lake, Black Mountain seems to travel with the tourist, and presents itself in the midst of every new view. The student of nature will be amply repaid by watching its various aspects. The point opposite Sabbath Day Point, is Bluff Point, beyond which, on the east shore, are the Odell Islands; while on the west, about the same distance, may be seen the Scotch Bonnet. Two miles to the north of the Bonnet, is the little village of Hague, where the steamer stops for passengers. Sailing on from Hague, we pass Cook’s Island and then Friends’ Point, where two scouting-parties belonging to the same force, once met, and in the darkness of the night came near firing upon one another. Two miles below Hague, on the east shore, will be seen Anthony’s Nose, a bold and lofty hill, with rocks jutting out into the lake. There are three other places in the State that bear the name of the Old Saint, who, evidently, for some reason not so clear, was a great favorite. One is on the Hudson, forming the southern limit of the Highlands, and two others are situated on the Mohawk. At this point may be found the deepest water of the lake. A fisherman in his boat onceDOWN THE LAKE. 31 narrowly escaped drowning in the huge waves caused by a rock that fell into the lake from Anthony’s Nose. In the hill opposite, the guides used to point out a dozen mortars in a solid rock, which, they avered, were made by the Indians for the purpose of pounding corn. Two miles farther down, on the west shore, is Rogers’ Slide. This is a steep, smooth precipice of ROGERS’ SLIDE. naked rock, inclining at a sharp angle, in the face of the mountain. It forms a prominent object from the lake, and, in 1757, was called “ Bald Mountain,” by Father Roubaud, in his Relation. At the foot of the Slide the water is quite deep. It received its present name, it is alleged, from the fact that Rogers the Ranger was once surprised here by the Indians, and made his escape on the ice. The latest version of the story runs somewhat as follows : In the winter of 1758 Rogers was surprised by some Indians, while out on a scout, and put to flight.32 DOWN THE LAKE. Shod with snow-shoes, he eluded pursuit, and, coming to this spot, saved his life by an ingenious device. Descending the mountain, until he came to the edge of the precipice, he threw his haversack down upon the ice, unbuckled his snow-shoes, and, without moving them, turned himself about, and put them on his feet again, with the heels in front. He then retreated by the way he came, until he reached the southern brow of the rock, where he found a ravine, down which he escaped, and sped away on the ice towards Fort George. The Indians, in the meanwhile, came to the spot, and, seeing the double set of tracks, concluded that they were made by two persons who had thrown themselves down the cliff, rather than to fall into their hands. But, on looking about, they saw Rogers disappearing in the distance on the ice, and, believing that he slid down the cliff, concluded that he was under the special protection of the Great Spirit. They then gave up the chase. So runs the latest version of the story. But, in 1802, the cliff was called Rogers’ Rock, not Rogers’ Slide. The best account Dwight could get at that time, was, that he escaped down a valley, and that the Indians supposed he fell off the precipice. Dwight’s guide told him that one Colonel Cochrane and several others escaped in the same way, and that years after, when surveying the land, he showed his companions a bullet, fired at him on this occasion, lodged in a tree. The earliest account, however, simply says, that thereI> O \V N THE LAKE. 33 was a tradition that a man once escaped from the savages in some such way. But what is worse, Rogers, who is very prolix where his own adventures are concerned, says nothing whatever about the affair in his journal; which most persons will accept as good proof that it never occurred. Rogers was a New-Hampshire man, whose brutal character is illustrated by his deeds. After the French war he went to England, and while there dined in company with some officers, who agreed, over their wine, that the person who could tell the greatest falsehood should have his bill paid by the others. When Rogers’ turn came, he told the company that liis father was shot by a friend, who mistook him for a bear ; that his mother was followed in the snow, on a stormy day, by a hunter, who supposed he was following the tracks of a panther: and that when a small boy, he travelled on foot in the woods, ten miles, with birch brooms on his shoulder, having nothing to guide him but marks on the trees. Judgment was at once uproariously given in his favor by the company.1 Rogers returned to America when the Revolution broke out, but was suspected by Washington as a spy, and could get no employment. He eventually obtained a commission from the English commander, and raised a company of Tory Rangers, which, on Long Island and elsewhere, proved more or less a scourge. He was proscribed by the New-Hampshire (I)—New Hampshire Coll., Vol. i., p. 240.34 DOWN THE LAKE. Legislature, who decreed a divorce for his wife. Neither the time, place, nor the manner of his death is given. But while thus dwelling upon the story of Rogers, we have been nearing the foot of the lake, whose waters, at this point, begin to shoal. It decreases in depth until the outlet is reached, where the water, now somewhat discolored by clay, passes through a narrow creek, and tumbles- over the falls, on its way to Lake Champlain, making a descent of about two hundred and forty feet in the course of four miles. At this end of the lake there is nothing of special interest to detain the traveller, before proceeding to Ticonderoga; though he will, of course, notice the little island called .Prisoners’ Island, where, tradition says, the French sometimes confined their prisoners, and from which a party once escaped by wading across a shallow place to the main land, on the west shore. The French called this island Isle au Mouton} It probably made a convenient sheep-fold. Schuyler and Martin, who, in 1758, were returned by ‘Abercrombie as Montcalm’s prisoners on the expiration of their parole, were received on this island by the advanced guard of the French. (1) — Col. Doc., Vol. x. p. 759.THE LAKE IN THE SEASONS. CHAPTER III. 0 me, my pleasant rambles by the lake, My sweet, mild, fresh three-quarters of a year, My one Oasis in the dust and drouth Of city life. — Tennyson. Spring — Summer — Boating — Echoes — Progressive Change — Sunrise — Sunset — Autumn — Black Mountain — Jefferson — Indian Summer — Winter — Ice. , y--r^'x r- i IIOEYER desires to know Lake George thoroughly, will find it necessary to study all its varied moods, which are as changeable as the sky. Yet it has certain general characteristics in each of the four seasons. The early spring is, perhaps, the least interesting season of the year. When the snow disappears, the ravages of winter become apparent. The woods everywhere have a black and sodden look. The oaks, which retain their dusky foliage much longer than the other trees, and part with their leaves as reluctantly as the belle loses her charms, are now completely stripped; and the woods, except36 THE LAKE IN THE SEASONS* where the evergreen pine appears, wear an aspect of extreme poverty and desolation. The action of the frost is revealed even on the rocks. Eventually, the warm-breathing air of the south comes, and the vegetable kingdom feels the thrill of a new life. Imperceptibly, the tone of the landscape is changed, and the hills, and islands, and shores, are suffused with a pale, delicate emerald green. At this time, a day of genial, sunny weather causes a sudden growth of verdure that will transform the whole lake. Then the water, which previously had reflected the leafless trees and cheerless hills, is lighted up with beauty, and in the sunlight gleams with the richest hues. Joy and gladness then seem to fill the very air. At this period the showers on the lake are very fine. But spring soon gives away to summer, which rapidly shoots up into its green prime, when the country is thronged with visitors from every part of the United States. Lake George at this time presents the most lovely picture. The majority of transient visitors congregate at Caldwell, and here, all day long, the water is covered with boats containing parties engaged in fishing, rowing, and in excursions to the islands. We need not go abroad on Italian lakes, or sail in Venetian gondolas, in order to witness picturesque scenes. Often on Lake George the boating parties, arrayed in bright costumes, reflected on the waves, with the accessories of green hills, blue skies,THE LAKE IN THE SEASONS. 37 and sparkling water, form scenes that never fail to delight the artist’s eye. There is no end of song and merry-making. Under the shadow of French Mountain, from the summit of which, in the spring of 1757, Kigaud reconnoitred Fort William Henry, will be found a remarkably good echo, which, in a calm day, will repeat with great fidelity all the variations of the bugle or flute. Visitors often row to this spot. It is easily found, and then • • • “ Many a laugh and many a shout The busy echoes toss about, Till joyous with the merry rout The hills are pealing.” To describe a day of summer-time here, would be a difficult task. From dawn until evening the lake is the subject of progressive change, and is continually going on from glory to glory. Sunrise often presents a scene of rare beauty. In the course of the night the mist accumulates among the hills and on the surface of the lake, and the first act of Old Sol, is to drive it away. This is a gradual work. As a range of mountains extends along the east side of the lake, we first view the light in the sky overhead, which gleams with red and gold. But as the day advances, French Mountain doffs its nightcap, and the sunbeams, bursting through the tree-tops, charge down the declivities upon the fleecy fog, like angelic spears. Unable to withstand the assault, the misty battalions break and fly. In due time the work is thoroughly finished, and38 THE LAKE IN THE SEASONS. “ Now flaming up the heavens, the potent sun Melts into limpid air the high-raised clouds And morning fogs, that hovered round the hills In parti-colored bands; till wide unveiled The face of Nature shines, from where earth seems Far-stretched around to meet the bending sphere.” As the day wears on, it is delightful to lounge around the lake, watching its changeful mood, as its surface is rippled by the wind, or shaded by some passing cloud. About noon the air will often be charged with a fine haze, which gives greater apparent depth and distance to the view. There is then a wide scope for the imagination, and, under its influence, the mountains seem to increase in height, presenting at the same time a softer outline. Everything in the distance is seen through a strongly refracted light, so that it is often difficult to tell where shore and water meet ; while some of the little transfigured islands appear as if rising towards the sky. To the landscape painter, the lake at such times affords a rare study. A gentle breeze, however, is always sufficient to dispel these effects. Late in the afternoon, the sun swings around on the west side of the lake, when the hills gradually extend their shadows along its entire length, except at Bolton, ten miles down, where the range descends, and allows the King of Day to fling his beams with full force across the water upon the opposite mountains. The sunset is enjoyed to its fullest extent by the passengers who come up the lake at this hour from Ticonderoga ; while the view, looking downTHE LAKE IN THE SEASONS. 39 from Caldwell, is much finer than in the morning. There lie the mountains towards the north, eight miles distant, vested in purple, each rock and crag a gleaming gem, while the roseate sky, barred with rich purple and green, is mirrored on the smooth lake, which, when ploughed by the homeward-bound Minnehaha, glitters like a sea of gold. Erelong the sun sinks to rest, and the splendor fades, leaving only a deep purple glow, which gives way to a black pall. Before it is too late, however, the visitor must take a boat and row out into the middle of the lake, to observe the richness of the shadows on the water, and the color of the surrounding hills. Then all that is unsightly is obscured, and the rich green of field and wood becomes wonderfully softened, and yet intensified, in the gloaming light, which is now reflected wholly from above by the canopy of deep blue. At this time the reflection of the green hills gives the water a beauty that the artist strives in vain to convey, especially when it is marked by those trails of light that follow in the track of some belated boat or Indian canoe. But finally the twilight dies away, the mountains are reduced to dusky, indistinguishable forms, and the lake is left to the meek-eyed stars, which, here and there, sow a jewel in the wave. But after all that can be said about summer, autumn is the most beautiful portion of the year, though few visitors linger to enjoy its glories. At this season,40 THE LAKE IN THE SEASONS. Dame Nature, like an old coquette, puts on her most gorgeous robes, and strives to appear young. How magnificent the hues ! The mountains appear all aflame with glory. Sunsets and rainbows appear to have fallen down upon them, and all their borders seem covered with rich Cashmere shawls. There is a radical difference between the American and European autumn. Indeed, Tacitus speaks of some old Germans who knew nothing at all about it. Autumn in England and on the continent appears tame, while in America it is the true carnival time. The splendor of our autumn is to be accounted for by the fact that in America we have a far greater variety of forest trees. In France, for instance, there are only about forty species that grow to the height of thirty feet, while in America there are no less than one hundred and forty. Around Lake George there is the usual variety, so that the hills blaze, and yet, like the Burning Bush, are not consumed. Here and there may sometimes be found only a few varieties, and then, as Moir says of the English forests in autumn, “ The faded woods a yellow livery wear.” The west side of Black Mountain appears from a distance to have only some maples and birches (the latter predominating) besides the pines; hence it is chiefly marked around its side with zones of green and yellow. But elsewhere there is no lack of color, theTHE LAKE IN THE SEASONS. 41 crimson and scarlet -being of the deepest and most exquisite hue. Jefferson visited the lake in June, 1791, accompanied by Mr. Madison, while Washington was on a southern tour, and improved a part of his vacation in the use of his rod and gun, at the same time giving some attention to natural history, a science in which he excelled, and which, but for the claims of his country, would probably have occupied a much larger portion of his life. Writing about the botany of the lake, he said of the trees : “ Those either unknown or rare in Virginia, were the sugar-maple, in great abundance; the silver fir, the white pine, pitch pine, spruce pine, a shrub with decumbent stems which they call juniper, an aralea, very different from the mundiflora, with very large clusters of flowers, more thickly set on branches, of a deeper red, and a high pink fragrance. It is the richest shrub I have seen. The honeysuckle of the gardens grows wild on the banks of Lake George ; the paper birch, an aspen with a velvet leaf, a shrub willow with downy catkins, a wild gooseberry, and a wild cherry with a single fruit (not in the bunch cherry), and strawberries in abundance.”1 These are some of the trees and shrubs not found in Virginia, but they form a small portion of the flora of the lake, which the philosopher admired quite as much as the magnificent pickerel and trout. And when the (1) —Jefferson’s Works, Vol. iii. p. 265.42 THE LAKE IN THE SEASONS. leaves ripen,1 the forests display every conceivable color. It is then a rare pleasure to watch the reflections of the mountains on the water. Of course, the weather will not always serve our purpose. Cold, disagreeable days come, when we are fitly reminded of the words of Ossian : “ Arise, winds of autumn, arise: blow along the heath! streams of the mountain, roar ! roar, tempests, in the grove of my oaks! ” Still, there are not wanting beautiful days when the sky and air are in harmony with the resplendent hues of the forest, and when the lake appears like some sweet scene of enchantment. Then the little rich, russet-colored isles, nestling in the shining lake, look like apples of gold in pictures of silver, while the tall, maple-crowned hill, looming up in the distance, seems a pyramid of fire. Whoever takes two or three of these glorious days for a trip down the lake, will store up in the portfolio of his mind a succession of beautiful scenes that will last for life. And when autumn declines, and the magnificent foliage has disappeared, then comes the Indian Summer ; though many persons unacquainted with its characteristics place it earlier in the season. It usually occurs about All Saints’ Day, November 1st, and by some of the French who visited the lake it was known as the Summer of All Saints. On the continent of Europe it is called the Summer-Close, and in Eng- (1) — The frost has nothing to do with changing the color of the leaves in autumn.THE LAKE IN THE SEASONS. 43 land, Martin-mass Summer, as the peasantry look for it about St. Martin’s Day, which falls on November 11th. This season is marked by a reddish, hazy, quiet atmosphere, and a slight rise in the temperature. In the autumn the haze is not always seen around the lake. After the September and October rains the sky is sometimes attended by a wondrous clearness and depth. We may always measure the purity of the air by the clearness of the reflections in the water. When the air is perfectly free from mist, the maple torch flames as brightly in the water of the lake at your feet as on the rocky cliff above your head. But during the Indian Summer, the lake is always veiled in mist. Longfellow happily describes it in Evangeline : " Such was the advent of autumn. Then followed that beautiful season Called by the pious Acadian peasants, the Summer of All Saints. Filled was the air with a dreamy and magical light; and the landscape Lay as if created in all the freshness of childhood. Peace seemed to reign upon earth, and the restless heart of the rec* on file . . . 30. 0.— To pd expences 3 Persons from Bengta to Albany . . 9.06 To pd Benjamin French for Pork 4 bbls rec* . 12. 0.— To pd Gershom Hewit Expence over lake . . 1.10.— To pd Jn° Stevens Canaan, Expence rec* . . 3.16.— To pd ditto d° d° . . 2.16.— To pd George Palmer Esqr for flower d° . . 3. 1. 6 To my Expences at Albany ..... 7. 6 To ditto, on road to Still Water, Fort Edward &° 9.— To ditto, at & near Fort Edward, getting men together . . . . . . . . 16. 4 To pd Abram Wing in part for Expences . . 9..— To d° Cash to John Stevens . . . .1. 8.— To d° horse-shoeing 7/6 — Expen8 on road 5/- . .12. 6 To pd Butler for Expen9 as Express to Stillwater .12.— To horse hire for ditto..........................15.— To Expen8 on road at meadw runbridge & Fort Geo : 16 men ....... 1.10.— To Expen8 on Lake & at Ticonderoga Landing . . 7. 6iv APPENDIX. To d° at Ticonda & on Lake returning . . . . 9. 4 To pd enlisted men for their Exp8. — Peter Cas- wel <|p Rec*...............................4. 2.— To Expe3 on road & at Saratoga, returning . . . 9.— To d° at Lanesborough d° . 7.— To pd Mayhon Wagoner to Transport Prisoners £ 2 12 6 from Lake to Lanesborough . . . £ To pd Prisoners Expences at Lanesborough . .16.10 To fetching my horse rode by Jn° Brown, & keeping &°.................................1. 8.— To advanced mony to one of Prisoners sick . .12.— To pd for 10 Loaves Bread for Prisoners . . . 7. 6 To 10lb Pork for ditto . . .5.— To pd two Waggoners from Lanesbor.0 to Noble- ) ^ «___ town 58 miles each — they found themselves £ To pd Exp8 at Lanesbor0 5/- d° on Road 7/6 . .12. 6 To pd for Ton Iron to Mr French, for Chains . 28.10.— To Expences advanced on the Road as Bill ^ from Hartford to Bennington including a Gun I 1Q . box for Cap* Mott 50/- for which he must be j * * charged & also 35/3 Expence paid for Mott J To Expences on the Road . . . . 1.16.— £131.11.10 Supra— Cr By Cash recd of Mess” Deane Leffingwell &° Rec* . . . . . . . 100. 0. 0 By an order on Treasurer in full this acco* this ? Q1 31st day May 1775 .....................£<*1.11.10 £131.11.10 Errors Excepted B Romans.APPENDIX. V. II. PETITION OF JOHN NORDBERG. [ From N. Y. Miscellaneous Papers, Yol. xxxi. p. 15. N. Y. Revolutionary Papers, I. p. 206. In Office of Secretary of State at Albany.] “ The most respectable Gentlemen, Provincial Congress in New York. “ I beg leave to represent to the most respectable Congress this circumstance. “ I am a native of Sweden, and have been persecuted for that, I have been against the French faction there. “ I have been in His Britanick Magesty’s Service sinse January 1758. “ I have been twice shot through my body here last war in America, &I am now 65 years old — reduced of age, wounds & and gravels, which may be seen by Doctor Jones’8 certificate. “ 1773. I got permission in Jamaica to go to London where I petition to be an Invalid officer, but as a foreigner I could not enjoy a commission in England, or Ereland His Magisty was graciously pleased to give me the allowance for Fort George 7 shilling sterling per day, with liberty to live where I please in America, because the fort has heen abandoned this 8 year and only 2 men remain there for to assist any express going between New York and Canada. I arrived here in New York last year in September with intention to live in New York : as I heard nothing els than disharmony amongst Gentlemen which was not agreeable to my age. I resolved to go to Fort George and live there in a little Cottage as an Hermit, where I was very happy for 6 months. “ The 12 of May last Mr. Romans came & took possession of Fort George, Mr. Romans behaved very genteel and civil to me. I told that I did not belong to the army and may be considered as a half pay officer invalid, and convinced him that I was pleagd with Gravell, Mr. RomansVI. APPENDIX. give me his passport to go to New Lebanon for to recover my health, & he told me that in regard to my age, I may go where I please. “ As I can’t sell any bill for my subsistance,. & I can’t live upon wind and weather, I therefore beg and implore the most respectable Congress permission to go to England, and I intend to go to my native country, I could have gone away secret so well as some others have done, but I will not upon any account do such a thing — I hope the most respectable will not do partially to refuse me, because major Etherington, Captain Brown, Captain Kelly which is in the army have been permitted to go to England, and it may happen they return here again on actual Service, which old age & infirmities render me incapable of. “ As it is the custom among the Christian nations and the Turks, that they give subsistance to every Prisoner according to their Rank should the most respectable Congress, have any claim upon me to be a prisoner here, I hope they will give me my subsistence from th 12 of May last, according to My Rank as Captain I implore the favor of the most respectable Congress answer. I have the honour to remain with great respect, “ Gentlemen “ Your most obed4 humble Servant “John Nordberg. “ New York, decemb* 1775.”APPENDIX. vii in. LAKE CHAMPLAIN. Lake Champlain was discovered and named by Samuel de Champlain, in 1609. It appears that he had left the infant colony of Quebec for the purpose of exploring the interior ; and having advanced as far gs possible with his boat on the Richelieu River, he left the boat, and, attended by only two of his followers, joined a party of Algonquin Indians, who were proceeding in their canoes to give battle to the Iroquois. July 2, they travelled on foot around the Chambly Rapids, which had obstructed the passage of his heavy boat, the Indians carrying their light canoes. Reembarking above the rapids, they sailed on until they emerged upon the great lake to which he gave his name, and then bore away southward up the lake, and met the Iroquois between Ticonderoga and Crown Point. The night previous to the battle both parties spent the time use-ually devoted to sleep in preparing for the encounter. This consisted in singing and dancing, and in applying to each other all manner of abusive epithets, accompanied by declarations of what on the morrow they intended severally to acchieve. Yet, as the Iroquois were unaccus tomed to fire-arms, when the day came they were soon put to rout. Champlain gives the following account of the fight. He says: “ My companion and I were always concealed, for fear the enemy should see us, preparing our arms the best we could, being, however, separated, each being in one of the canoes belonging to the savage Montagners. After we were equipped with light armor, we each took an arquebusviii APPENDIX. and went ashore. I saw the enemy leave their barricade. There were about two hundred men of strong and robust appearance, who were coming slowly towards us, with a gravity and assurance that greatly pleased me, led on by three chiefs. Ours were marching in similar order, and they told me that those who bore the three lofty plumes were chiefs, and that there were but these three, who were to be recognized by these plumes, which were considerably larger than those of their companions, and that I must do all that I could to kill them. I promised to do what I could, and that I was very sorry that they could not clearly understand me, so as to give them the order and plan of attacking their enemies, as we should certainly defeat them* all; but there was no help for that; that I was very glad to encourage them and to manifest my good will when we should be engaged. “ The moment we landed they began to run about two hundred paces towards their enemies, who stood firm, and had not yet perceived my companions, who went into the bush with some savages. Our’s commenced calling me in a loud voice, and making way for me, opened in two, and and placed me at their head, marching about twenty paces in advance, until I was within thirty paces of the enemy. The moment they saw me, they halted, gazing at me and I at them. When I saw them preparing to shoot at us, I raised my arquebus, and aiming directly at one of the three chiefs, two of them fell to the ground by this shot, and one of their companions received a wound, of which he died afterwards. I had put four balls in my arquebus. Our’s, on seeing a shot so favorable for them, set up such tremendous shouts that thunder could not have been heard; and yet, there was no lack of arrows on both sides. The Iro-APPENDIX. ix quois were greatly astonished seeing two men killed so quickly, who were provided with arrow-proof armor woven of cotton thread and wood; this frightened them very much. Whilst I was re-loading, one of my companions in the bush fired a shot which so astonished them anew, seeing their chiefs were sfain, that they lost courage, took to flight, and abandoned the field and their fort, hiding themselves in the depths of the forest, whither pursuing them, I killed some others. Our savages also killed several of them and took ten or twelve prisoners. The rest carried off the wounded. Fifteen or sixteen of ours were wounded by arrows, but they were promptly cured.” After this the party returned, and the savages amused themselves by torturing their prisoners, one of whom Champlain shot, in order to deliver him from his cruel tormentors. This was, undoubtedly, the first time that a white man ever saw the lake. In course of years, as seen by the history of Lake George, this lake became a part of the great route between the Canadas and New York. As early as 1730, the French conceived the idea of founding a great political power on the shores of the lake, the capital of which should be Crown Point. Here they built a fort called Fort St. Frederic, and laid the foundations of an extensive settlement, of which many traces are still found by the antiquarian. Twenty-five years later, as the reader has already been informed, the fort was built at Ticonderoga. But in 1759 the French power on Lake Champlain was broken, and their plans and settlements were dissolved. There were but few events in the history of Lake Champlain during the Revolutionary struggle, that are not detailed in the history of Lake George. The day afterX A P PJ1 NDIX. the capture of Ticonderoga, the fortress at Crown Point, garrisoned by a dozen British troops, also surrendered, and within a short time Benedict Arnold captured some British craft that were unsuspectingly abroad on the lake. Yet during the Revolution there was but little severe fighting here. In the year 1814, Lake Champlain was made quite memorable in our naval annals by the victory of the American commander, Commodore Macdonough, over Commodore Downie. Macdonough’s force consisted of fourteen vessels, eighty-six guns, and eight hundred and eighty men ; while Downie had sixteen vessels, ninety-five guns, and one thousand men. The battle took place opposite Plattsburgh, on Sunday morning, September 7. Soon after daylight, the Americans had intelligence of the approach of the British, and the fleet was prepared for action. Before the fight commenced, an unusual scene was enacted on board the Blag-ship Saratoga. Assembling his crew on deck, prayers were read by Commodore Macdonough, who fervently implored the Divine protection, and the successful termination of the conflicts, all the while the housetops on shore being covered by spectators, awaiting the issues of the day with the most painful anxiety. When the enemy, with flags and streamers flying, came around Cumberland Head, and arrived within range, Macdonough sent a twenty-four pound shot the entire length of the deck of Downie’s flag-ship, killing a number of men. The Americans then opened a general fire, which the English did not return until they were able to do so with great effect. At the first broadside of the English Flagship, the Confidence, a large number of the crew of the Flag-APPENDIX. XI ship Saratoga were either killed or wounded. But the men rallied and gave a powerful reply, the broadsides being exchanged with such rapidity that the vessels at times seemed all aflame. Twice the cry was raised that Commodore Macdonough was killed, and it seemed at one time as if it would be necessary to surrender; yet by a skilful manoeuvre the fight was maintained until the British commander himself was killed, and his colors pulled down. The other vessels of the fleet were managed with equal gallantry, and the British were all obliged to surrender, with the exception of the small gun-boats, which, at the end of two hours and a half, escaped from the harbor with the aid of their sweeps. While this battle was going on, the British were active upon the land, fourteen thousand men under General Provost attacking an unequal force of Americans under General Macomb. The result of the contest on the lake, however, disheartened Provost, who finally beat a retreat. Thus ended a memorable struggle, rendered all the more interesting by the place where it occurred, which was not, like most naval engagements, on the dark, blue, boundless sea, but on this inland lake, bordered by hamlets, villages, and farms, and environed on all side by green hills, meadows, and distant mountains. The people of New York and Vermont residing on the shores of the lake, thus found themselves at liberty to pursue their respective avocations until the war with England closed. Lake Champlain is one hundred and fifty miles long, and varies greatly in width. Some parts being only a fourth of a mile wide, and others stretching out to a breadth ofxii APPENDIX. thirteen. It covers an area of more than five hundred square miles. Its water, unlike that of Lake George, is more or less discolored, especially on approaching the southern terminus, or South Bay, where the water becomes muddy. Here, too, the channel grows narrow, and at times the steamer glides along within a few feet of overhanging cliffs which lie on the east side ; while on the -west are the so-called “ Drowned Lands,” consisting of swamp and marsh. It was by this route that Burgoyne brought the bulk of his army in 1777. Towards the north, the scene constantly improves ; yet, nevertheless, we miss the sweetness and beauty of Lake George. We occasionally fall in with odd-looking craft. The number of vessels engaged in the navigation of the lake is not large, though their extremely picturesque character renders them objects of interest. Modeled often after the pattern of the Ark, or at least the Chinese junk, these clumsy craft — half French and half American, and ranging from thirty to a hundred tons, now sloop now schooner rigged, and now carrying the piratical latteen sail — go creeping at snail-pace from port to port all the summer, the domestic stove-pipe on the quarter-deck ever sending up its curling cloud-wreaths, and proclaiming the presence of the “ skipper’s ” family, who, like himself, have a roving commission for the season, and no homestead, except that afforded by the surface of Champlain. We may also see rafts of canal boats from the ports of New Jersey that have come up the Hudson, reaching this lake by the Champlain Canal, on their way to Montreal. In order to see every part of the Lake, the tourist must embark at Whitehall, where the steamers leave daily on the arrival of trains from Albany and New York, andAPPENDIX. xiii proceed down the lake. After passing through what is known as the South Bay, and passing Ticonderoga, where the steamer always makes a landing, the lake begins to widen, affording a broad expanse of water, dotted here and there with islands; while in course of time the mountains rise in the distance on either hand; Camel’s Hump and Mansfield Mountain looming up towards the east, and the cloud-splitting Adirondacks lying with especial boldness against the western'sky. Among the points touched on the lake, in addition to those already mentioned, are Chimney Point, opposite Crown Point, so called from the remains of French masonry ; Port Henry a mile and a half north of Crown Point, on the same side; West Port, sixteen miles further on, lying at the east side; Basin Harbor, and Fort Cassin ; the former five, and the latter eight miles from West Port. Cassin Harbor is named after Lieutenant Cassin, who, in 1814, defeated the British in their attempt to destroy the American fleet. Split Rock, on the west shore, near which is the lighthouse, forms the terminus of one of the ranges of the Adirondacks. Here a part of the mountain is split off, and separated from it by a chasm twelve feet wide, forming a very remarkable feature. Seventy miles from Whitehall, on the east side, is the city of Burlington, the seat of the University of Vermont. Port Kent, a small village, lies on the opposite side of the lake, which is now ten miles wide, and in the distance the Adirondacks appear. Port Kent is a point from which these mountains may be reached. At this place the tourist will feel repaid by delaying to visit the Falls and the Walled Rocks of the Ausable River, which, though comparatively unknown, afford some of the wildest and most impressive scenes to be found in thexiv APPEND X. country. Everything may be sec a in the course of a day. The next point of interest is Port Jackson, on the west shore, with Valcour Island opposite. Near this point, in 1776, Arnold was severely defeated by Captain Pringle, who commanded the British. On the same side is Plattsburgh, situated one hundred miles from Whitehall. Twenty-five miles further on, at House’s Point, we pass the American lines and enter the dominion of the Queen, where we at once begin to realize that we are in a foreign country. This is indicated by an occasional soldier in the Queen’s uniform, and by the constantly increasing number of French Canadians of the lower classes, who, to their untidy aspect, add the equally poor attraction of their wretched patois. Here, also, the custom-house officials pay their respects to the traveller’s baggage, and ply the question, “ Anything dut’able ? ” The tourist may here go on twenty-three miles by water, or take train for Ogdensburg and Montreal.MAP OF lAKE GEORGE a. Diamond Island. b. The Three Sisters. c. Long Island. d. The Three Brothers. e Recluse Island. !; /. Dome Island. i g. Green Island. j h. Hog Island. i. Fourteen- Mile Island. 7.* The Narrows. j Tc. Floating Battery Islands. j l. Vicar’s Island. fti. Harbor Island. i n. Odell’s Island. ' o. Friends’ Islands. p. Mutton, or Prisoner’s Island. q. Clay Island. 1. Site of Fort William Henry and Hotel. ■L Trout Pavilion. 4. Bolton. 5. Tongue Mountain. 6. Shelving Rock. 7. Black Mountain. 8. Sabbath Day Point. 9. North West, or Ganasouke Bay. 10. Bosom Bay. 11. Hague. 12. Friends’ Point. 13. Anthony’s Nose. 14. Ticonderoga. 15. Buck Mountain. 16. Rogers’ Slide. 17. Peak of French Mountain. 18. Fort George. Montcalm’s Intrenchments, 1757 Length of Lake........... Greatest Width........... Greatest Depth (Survey of 175:|5, $8 ft.) probably. Elevation above the Sea... about 34 Miles. ...... 4 “ ......200 feet. .....240 “