VII. EXTRACTS FROM THE NEW WORLD, A DESCRIPTION OF THE WEST INDIES. JOHN de LAET, Director of the Dutch West India Company, &c. Translated from the original Dutch, BY THE EDITOR. . 7 s 36PRELIMINARY NOTICE. In tracing the history of American colonization few writers have taken the trouble to examine fully the original authorities to be found among those nations that were the first to engage in enterprizes to the new world. The English, the French, and the Dutch, were nearly equally active at one period in planting civil- ization upon the coasts of North America ; but the jealousy enkin- dled by the common pursuit of commercial advantages led to a mutual disposition to undervalue each other’s share in the glory of maritime discovery. The right of occupying the country thus came into dispute among the different powers, and conflicting claims of title arose, that often rendered the shores of the new world a scene of bitter and sometimes bloody contention. It is obvious enough that in such a state of things the truth of history would require something more for its support than the partial statements of any one side in the controversy; and in order to arrive at a satisfactory result it would be necessary to compare the pretensions of the various rival states with one another. Thus while England extended her claim to the whole country from Labrador to Florida, and conferred upon it the names of New Eng- land and Virginia, the French were not far behind in asserting their title to a jurisdiction of nearly equal extent, who, blot- ting out from their maps the English names, denominated the whole New France. The Dutch were more modest in their pre- tensions, as well as more equitable in the distribution of territory ; conceding to their rivals what each seemed to have fairly merited by successful efforts to colonize the country, they inscribed on their maps the names of New France, Virginia, and New England, but at the same time set up a claim of their own to those parts of the North American continent that had been first explored, if not dis- covered, and colonized by themselves, to which they gave the name of New Netherlands. The careful historian before under- taking tantas componere lites,Production Note Cornell University Library produced this volume to replace the irreparably deteriorated original. It was scanned using Xerox software and equipment at 600 dots per inch resolution and compressed prior to storage using CCITT Group 4 compression. The digital data were used to create Cornells replacement volume on paper that meets the ANSI Standard Z39.48-1984. The production of this volume was supported in part by the New York State Program for the Conservation and Preservation of Library Research Materials and the Xerox Corporation. Digital file copyright by Cornell University Library 1993.'.PRELIMINARY NOTICE. 283 will have recourse to the statements of the respective parties wherever they are to be found, and diligently investigate the grounds upon which they severally rest. The ultimate predominance of England, together with the gene- ral spread of her language and literature throughout so large a part of the new world to the exclusion of almost every other, has given a manifest advantage to the advocates of her original claims of title over those of her less fortunate rivals. American histori- ans have written with English prejudices, expatiating with ardour upon the heroic enterprize and religious seal that led to the coloni- zation of Virginia and New England, while they have almost for- gotten to record the earlier sprinklings of French hamlets on the St. Lawrence and the bay of Fundy, as well as the undaunted and persevering efforts of the Dutch skippers in exploring the coast from Cape Cod to Chesapeake bay, and dotting the banks of its rivers and estuaries with hardy settlers before an English ship had ascended the Hudson or the Delaware. The obstacles pre- sented by the intervention of a foreign language, in which alone many of the earlier accounts are to be found, have contributed without doubt to increase the measure of injustice on the part of our own writers, especially in the case of the Dutch, whose lan- guage presents too repulsive an exterior to induce even the histori- cal student to explore its treasures. Thus the indefatigable annalist, the late Dr. Holmes, whose noble work is a monument of patient labour and learned research, ascribes the discovery of Long Island Sound and Connecticut river to Thomas Dermer, an Englishman, in 1619; when, had he perused the Dutch authorities of that period, he would not have hesitated to give the credit of the achievement to skipper Block, who, in the year 1614, sailed through the East river into the Sound, and ascended the Connecti- cut as far, or nearly so, as the present site of Hartford.* The Dutch author to whom we are chiefly indebted for recording the early voyages of his countrymen to the new world, is John de Laet, one of the most distinguished of European geographers, from whose principal work the following extracts have been made. He was a native of Antwerp, but appears to have resided during the latter part of his career at Leyden, where the greater * See below, p. 296.284 PRELIMINARY NOTICE. part of his works were issued from the unrivalled press of the Elzevirs. His last publication was an edition of Vitruvius on Architecture, which he dedicated to Christina, Queen of Sweden, in 1649; he died during the same year.* Among his writings not the least interesting is the controversy in which he was engaged with his countryman the celebrated Grotius, or Hugo de Groot, as the name was written in his vernacular tongue, on the origin of the native American race. De Laet, in the first instance, published an edition of the essay of Grotius on that subject with annotations, in 1643; to which the latter replied, and De Laet afterwards rejoined. Both wrote in the Latin language. But the work on which his reputation chiefly rests, was entitled the “New World,or a Description of the Westlndies,” &c., origin- ally composed in Dutch, and published in a black-letter folio at Ley- den, in 1625.f It was inscribed by the author to the States Gene- ral of the United Provinces in a handsome dedication, dated at Leyden, November 15th, 1624. This work contains the earliest published account of which we have any knowledge relative to the Dutch settlements on our river; tracing the discoveries of Hudson and other navigators upon the coast, whose MS. journals of their voyages the author evidently had before him when he wrote. This circumstance is distinctly stated in his preface, in which, after enumerating the various publications to which he had been indebted, he adds, “ Together with various manuscript journals of different shipmasters and steersmen, whose names we have here and there mentioned in our descriptions.” (Beneffens verscheyden gheschreven Journalen van verscheyden Schippers ende Stier- lieden, welcker namen wy hier ende daer in onse Beschryvinge hebben uydfgedracht.) De Laet not only mentions the name of Hudson, but quotes several passages from his journal, the more interesting as no other portions of it are known to be in existence the meagre log-book kept by his mate, Robert Juet, being all that * Biographie Universelle, t. xxiii. Art. Laet. f The title is as follows; “ Nieuwe Wereldt ofte Beschryvinghe van West Indien, uit veelderhande Schriften ende aen-teekeninghen van verscheyden natien by een versamelt Door Joannes de Laet. Ende met noodighe kaerten ende tafels voorsien. Tot Leyden, In de Druckerye van Isaack Elzevier. Anno 1625.” See below, pp. 299, 300.PRELIMINARY NOTICE. 285 is preserved of the original accounts of the voyage during which he discovered the noble river that bears his name.* It is equally clear that our author possessed the journals of Adriaen Block, and Cornelius Jacobson May, whose explorations of the coast were made from 1614 to 1623. The name of New Netherlands first appears in the work of De Laet, who describes its boundaries, and assigns the grounds on which the Dutch claimed the country. The period at which he wrote is the one in which the first attempts are supposed to have! been made for the regular settlement of a colony, although trading j houses had been previously erected on the river. The colonial records seem to point, though indirectly, to that date, as the com- mencement of a regular administration of affairs, under Peter Minuit as governor; and a respectable Dutch author, who wrote the Annals of the Netherlands, briefly alludes to the settlement of “ Nieuw Nederlandt, nu Nieujork,n by several Dutch families (Jmisgezinnen), under the year 1624.f The publication of De Laet without doubt exerted a favourable influence on the enterprize, which was begun under the auspices of the West India Company, of which he became a director. It was not, however, until the year 1630, that the principal impulse was given to the growth of the infant colony. A charter of privileges for the benefit of indi- viduals who would transport settlers to the New Netherlands, or emigrate thither, was then promulgated by the West India Compa- ny, which induced many influential persons to engage in the settle- ment of the country. Under this charter, Yan Rensselaer planted his colony near Fort Orange, one hundred and fifty miles from the mouth of the river ; and with him were associated in other enter- prizes of a similar character a number of prominent citizens, among whom was our author. It does not appear that De Laet ^ visited the country, although he evidently took a deep interest in j its prosperity, as one of the patroons or founders of colonies, and | a director in the West India Company. His daughter Johanna de Laet, the wife of Jeronimus Ebbingh, afterwards resided here j and * By a singular coincidence, the journal of Juet was published by Purchase in his collection of voyages, at London, the same year (1625) that De Laet’s work appeared at Leyden. t Kort Yerhaal der Nederlantsche Geschiedenissen, etc. door Hermanus Meijer, te Groningen, 1747.286 PRELIMINARY NOTICE we find the latter among the schepens or magistrates of New Amsterdam, as late as 1673.* In the tax list of the same year, Ebbingh’s estate is one of the largest assessed. Among the publications of De Laet was a history of the West India Company, which appeared from the preSs of the Elzevirs, in 1644. It is a folio volume, in the Dutch language, entitled a “ History or yearly relation of the transactions of the chartered West India Company, from its beginning to the end of the year 1636, in thirteen books, ornamented with various copperplate en- gravings. By John de Laet, a director of the company. Leyden; by Bonaventuer and Abraham Elzevir. Anno 1644.”f The affairs of the New Netherlands occupy, however, a comparatively small space in this work, since the operations of the Company in other quarters were of much greater magnitude and importance. None of the writings of De Laet appear to have been translated into our language, although most of them were well known to English scholars through the medium of the Latin and the French, in which he seems to have composed with as much facility as in his vernacular tongue. A Latin edition of the New World was published in 1633, under the title of “ Nows Orbis, seu description ?iis India Occidentalism Autore Joanne de Laet Antuerpiensi&c.; and another appeared in French, in the year 1640, both from the press of the Elzevirs at Leyden. These editions became exten- sively known, and gave the author at once a distinguished place among the savans of Europe4 The success of the work was complete ; it furnished the best account of the New World that had yet appeared, containing, as Charlevoix justly remarks, the fruits of great research, not only in relation to the political establishments of the European powers in America, but also in respect to the , natural history of the country, and the character and manners of the native races. He drew his materials, continues the same * Moulton’s New Orange, 13, note. t Historic ofte Jaerlijck Verhael van de verriehtinghen der geoctroyeerde West Indische Compagnie, &c. J The original edition in Dutch was so completely eclipsed by its successors, that its existence seems to have escaped the notice of tthose writers who have given a list of De Laet’s publications. It is not mentioned by Charlevoix, Bru- net, or Watt, nor by the author of the valuable article concerning him in the Bi- ographie Universelle.PRELIMINARY NOTICE. 287 writer, from good sources, and used them with skill and discern- ment, except when he consulted only protestant authors, and per- mitted his judgment to be warped by religious prejudice.* A late English writer, after mentioning that De Laet was a great profi- cient in the languages, and composed or edited several works re- lating to geography and civil history, adds, “ These works are still in considerable repute, as well on account of the historical and geographical information which they contain, as on account of the great beauty of the Elzevir typeset In preparing the Latin edition of his “ New World,” De Laet instead of translating the Dutch text recomposed the work anew, condensing and altering many of the chapters, and interweaving the new materials collected in the interval of publication. The original work was divided into fifteen books, to which three were now added, besides many new chapters and additional maps. Among the latter was a map of “ Nova Anglia, Novum Belgium, et Vir- ginia” containing also “ Novcb Francice Pars” on which the ter- ritory claimed by the Dutch is distinctly laid down. The French edition of 1640, is an exact counterpart to the Latin; containing the same number of books and chapters, and the same maps and other illustrations. The text is also the same, being for the most part a faithful translation of the Latin. The following extracts comprise all that the original edition of De Laet contains on the subject of the New Netherlands; and for the purpose of enabling the reader, who may not have the means of referring to the work itself, now rarely to be met with, the chap- ters of the Latin edition, corresponding exactly to the French, are also added. It will be seen that the original edition enters much more fully into a description of the discoveries of the Dutch in this quarter than the others; while in the latter new matter is added relative to the productions of the country, and the character of the native inhabitants. The brief vocabulary of the language of the Sanhickans, a nation of the Delawares, who inhabited the west side of the Hudson from the Highlands to the sea, forms a valua- ble contribution to the materials for instituting a comparison of the different American dialects. In making the translation, we have endeavoured to conform as * Histoire de la Nouvelle France, t. i. xlviii. t Rees’ Cyclop. Art. Laet.# 288 PRELIMINARY NOTICE. strictly as possible to the literal sense of the original, the object being not so much to furnish an agreeable narrative, as to present in a plain English dress the few chapters devoted by the author to the discoveries of his countrymen upon our shores. At the period when the description was written, the first efforts were making to establish a colony within the bounds of our present populous and flourishing commonwealth; a company of merchants had already erected their trading houses upon the banks of the river, and under the charter of 1621 ^preparations were in progress to colonize the country from the Connecticut to the Delaware. In 1624 a few families had probably come over, as we have already seen, but nothing had been done towards effecting a settlement worthy of commemoration by the pen of the historian. The plan, however, had been marked out; the name of New Netherlands, appearing now for the first time, and the careful description by our author of the limits of the territory comprehended under that name, indicate with sufficient distinctness what was intended to be done. And had the government of the United Provinces, instead of leav- ing the gigantic undertaking to the unassisted enterprize of a few merchants, lent her aid and employed a portion of her undoubted resources in promoting its success, the result must have been far more satisfactory, and the colony of New Netherlands might have existed to the present day, a monument of the commercial pros- perity and maritime vigour of the parent State. Editor. Sec the charter of the West India Company in Hazard’s State Papers,DESCRIPTION, &c. BOOK III. NEW-NETHERLANDS. Chapter VII. The first discovery and general description of that part of the country called by our countrymen New-Netherlands. In the foregoing chapters we have spoken of that portion of the West Indies lying to the north, which the French, as relat- ed in the last book, some years since more fully discovered and explored, and to which the English at a later period had begun to give the name of New-England. We had thus reached in our description the promontory called by the English Cape Cod, and following the route of the French navigators, had arrived in our last book at Cape Malebarre and Port Fortune*. The main land bends inwardly from this point, and forms, as it were, a large bay, that extends nearly east and west to a great river, from which the coast again stretches to the south-west, or nearly so, to the extremity of Florida. This part of the coast, situated as we have described, including numerous islands, and two large rivers, the most southerly in latitude 38° and fifty odd minutes, and the most northerly in latitude 40° 30', which flows from the north, a great distance inland—this portion of the West Indies, I say, our countrymen call New-Neth- erlands, because it was first more fully discovered at the charge of Netherlanders, and some years after was visited by others of our people, and provided by them with a fort and habitations, under the authority and special grants of their High Mighti- nesses the States General of the United Provinces. As to the first discovery, the Directors of the authorized East India Company, in the year 1609, despatched the yacht * The French discoveries here referred to, were those of Champlain and others, in 1603-4, &c. when they ranged the coast from Nova Scotia to Cape Malebarre, the southern extremity of the peninsula of Cape Cod. Port Fortune was a harbour at the same place, probably the same now called Chatham Harbour. Gosnold, an English navigator, had visited and named Cape Cod in 1602, as well as other parts of the coast of New England; hence De Laet does not claim for the French the merit of making original discoveries in that quarter. It will be perceived that he applies the term West Indies to the continent; in this he follows the Spanish writers, some of whom still adhere to that usage. 37290 DE LAET’s DESCRIPTION Half-Moon, under the command of Henry Hudson, captain and supercargo, to seek a passage to China by the north-east. But he changed his course and stood over towards New France, and having passed the banks of New Foundland in latitude 43° 23', he made the land in latitude 44° 15', with a west-north-west and north-west course, and went on shore at a place where there were many of the natives, with whom, as he understood,, the French came every year to trade.* Sailing hence he bent his course to the south, until running south-south-west and south- west by south, he again made land in latitude 41° 43', which he supposed to be an island, and gave it the name of New-Holland, but afterwards discovered that it was Cape Cod, and that accord- ing to his observation, it lay twro hundred and twenty-five miles to the west of its place on all the charts.! Pursu- ing his course to the south, he again saw land in latitude 37° 15'; the coast was low, running north and south, and opposite to it lay a bank or shoal within which there was a depth of eight, nine, ten, eleven, seven, and six and a half fathoms, with a sandy bottom. Hudson called this place Dry Cape.% Changing his course to the northward, he again discovered land in lat. 38° 9', where there was a white sandy shore, and within appeared a thick grove of trees full of green foliage. The direction of the coast -was north-north-east and south-south- west, for about twenty-four miles ; then north and south for twenty-one miles, and afterwards south-east and north-west for fifteen miles. They continued to run along ths coast to the north, until they reached a point from which the land stretches to the west and north-wrest, where several rivers discharge into an open bay. Land was seen to the east-north-east, which Hudson at first took to be an island, but it proved to be the main land,and the second point of the bay, in latitude 38° 54,.[| Standing in upon a course north-west by east, they soon found themselves embayed, and encountering many breakers, stood out again to the south-south-east. Hudson suspected that a large river discharged into the bay, from the strength of the current that set out and caused the accumulation of sands and shoals. * Probably near the mouth of Penobscot, (called by the French Pentagoet„) river; there was a small French settlement at the same date, considerably farther to the eastward, named Port Royal, now Annapolis, Nova Scotia. t In the translation we shall convert the Dutch miles into English; in the present instance seventy-five miles in the original become in English measure two hundred and twenty-five. I Near the mouth of Chesapeake Bay; the description of the coast corres- ponds to the vicinity of Cape Charles. || This was without doubt Cape May, now laid down in latitude 3£° 57', varying only 3'from the observations of Hudson. The remainder of the des- scrintion applies well enough to Delaware bay and river, now first discovered, as claimed by the Dutch.OF THE NEW-NETHERLANDS. 291 Continuing their course along the shore to the north, they observed a white sandy beach and drowned land within, beyond which there appeared a grove of wood; the coast running north-east by east, and south-west by south. Afterwards the direction of the coast changed to north by east, and was higher land than they had yet seen. They at length reached a lofty promontory or head-land, behind which was situated a bay, which they entered and run up into a road-stead near a low sandy point, in lat. 40° 18b* There they were visited by two savages clothed in elk skins, who showed them every sign of friendship. On the land they found an abundance of blue plums, and magnificent oaks, of a height and thickness that one seldom beholds; together ‘„with poplars, linden trees, and various other kinds of wood useful in ship-building. Sail- ing hence in a northeasterly direction, they ascended a river to nearly 43° north latitude, where it became so narrow and of so little depth, that they found it necessary to return.! From all that they could learn, there had never been any ships or Christians in that quarter before, and they were the first to discover the river and ascend it so far. Henry Hudson returned to Amsterdam with this report; and in the following year, 1610, some merchants again sent a ship thither, that is to say, to the second river discovered, which was called Manhattes, from the savage nation that dwelt at its mouth. And subse- quently their High Mightinesses the States General granted to these merchants the exclusive privilege of navigating this river and trading there; whereupon, in the year 1615, a redoubt or fort was erected on the river, and occupied by a small garrison, of which we shall hereafter speak. Our countrymen have con- tinued to make voyages thither from year to year for the pur- pose of trafficking with the natives, and on this account the country has very justly received the name of New-Netiier- lands. Chapter VIII. Situation of the coast of New-Netherlands from Pye Bay to the Great River of the Mountains. The better to understand the bearing of the coast and the extent of the country, we should begin somewhat farther to the * This is about the latitude of Sandy Hook. The highlands of New Jersey formed the lofty promontory referred to. + The latitude of Albany is 42° 39’. It appears from Juet’s Journal of the voyage, that Hudson sent his small boat several miles farther up the river than his ship proceeded, and in this way he probably reached the latitude of Albany, described as nearly 43 °.292 BE LAET’s DESCRIPTION north, namely at Pye Bay, as it is called by some of our navi- gators, in latitude 42° 80', to which the limits of New-Nether- lands extend. The distance from thence to the extreme point of the Lizard, according to the observations and reckoning of Captain Adrian Block, is two thousand and seventy miles, or thereabout. On the cape in this bay the ground is very sandy; a numerous people inhabit there, who are extremely well-look- ing, but timid and shy of Christians, so that it requires some address to approach them.* From this place to a point named by Captain Block Cape Bevechier, (from its great resemblance to Bevechier, the land being clammy, and not very elevated,) across Wick Bay, (another bay so called by our people, extending to the south-east,) the distance is thirty-six miles, and the course to the south-east by east and north-west by wrest. The coast trends from this cape, in the first place, north-west and south-east, for fifteen miles, and then north-east and south- west for eighteen miles, towards another sandy point. From the latter to Cape Malebarre, the distance is twenty-seven miles, and the direction of the coast north-east by north and south- west by south. This cape was also called by our countrymen Flat Hook; the surf breaks very much upon the point at its extremity, although there is three fathoms’ water at low tide, in as much as the currents here meet, rendering the navigation dangerous to those who are not acquainted with the coast.f Our Netherland ship-masters have not in a single instance had the misfortune to get stranded upon the shoals in this quarter, although according to some accounts there is a reef extending out to sea in a southerly direction for the distance of ninety miles. Not that it is very shallow for so great a dis- tance, but only that the bottom can be reached with the lead; and there is the least depth of water twenty-four or twenty- seven miles off from the shore and out of sight of land. The soundings are very unequal, sometimes thirty fathoms, and then only seven or eight. But on the other hand it is said by some navigators, that no such reef lies so far to the south of * The latitude of Pye Bay corresponds to that of Marblehead, a few miles north-east of Boston ; from which to the Lizard, at the entrance of the English Channel, the distance is much greater than it was computed by the Dutch nav- igator. The name of Pye Bay was not adopted by the English after the settle- ment of the country. t Cape Bevechier seems to have been on the western side of the peninsula of Cape Cod, but the land in all that region is the reverse of the character given it by the author; instead of being clammy, or adhesive, it is mostly composed of loose sand. There are banks of clay, however, on the east side, called Clay Pounds, but not far enough from Cape Malebarre to answer the description of Cape Be- vechier. The second sandy point noticed, without being named, twenty-seven miles from Cape Malebarre, may have been Race Point on the extremity of Cape Cod, although the distance between them is somewhat greater.OP THE NEW-NETHERLANBS. 293 Cape Malebarre, but only to the eastward of it; we shall leave this matter to be settled by the more complete discoveries of our skippers hereafter.* Nine miles to the west of Cape Malebarre lies an island about six miles from the shore, and three miles in extent, or thereabout; but at a distance one might suppose that it was part of the main land ; it was called by some, as I conjecture, Petochnock. In respect to the bearing of the coast in this quarter, I do not find it laid down on any charts of our country- men that have come to my hands. But a number of islands lie off in that direction, as, for instance, one that was common- ly called by our Dutch captains, Texel, and by others Cape Ack.t It is a large island, and appears white and clayey, accord- ing to the description of Capt. Cornells Jacob May. About a mile and a half from the south-west extremity of this island, lies another small island, which was named by our countrymen Henry Christian's Island, and by others Marten-vinger’s Is- land.:): In this vicinity are likewise several small islands, called Elizabeth’s Islands, which are upon the starboard side in coming from the river or bay of Nassau ; and in order to run on the outside of Henry Christian’s Island, it is necessary to steer a south-east course. Beyond these lies also an island to ■which our countrymen have given the name of Block's Island, from Captain Adrian Block. This island and the Texel above mentioned are situated east by north and west by south from one another, and the distance is such that you can see both from the quarter deck when you are half way between. To the north of these islands and within the main land, is situated the river or bay of Nassau, || which lies from the above named Block’s Island north-east by east and south-west by west. This bay or river of Nassau is apparently very * The most satisfactory account of these shoals, now know as George’s Bank, is contained in the late editions of Blunt’s Coast Pilot, from a survey made at the expense of the author of that work, in 1821. They are also laid down on a chart of the north-eastern coast by the same indefatigable hydrographer, with great minuteness and acknowledged accuracy. A new survey of them has been re- cently made (1837) by the direction of our government, under the superinten- dence of Lieut. Com. Charles Wilkes. U. S. N., from which it appears that the shoalest water found upon the bank was 2* fathoms, or fifteen feet, and that the soufidings varied suddenly, in frequent instances, from seven or eight to thirty fathoms, thus confirming the Dutch account of them. Their distance from land is also ascertained to be the same as stated by our author, namely, ninety miles. They are laid down on the Dutch maps under the name of the Great Malebarre Reef, (£’ Groot Riff van Malebarre,) and by the English in early times, as the Malabar Shoals. It may be well to add, that none of our gazetteers or geo- graphical publications contain a tolerable description of this remarkable feature upon our coast; the excellent nautical work already mentioned being the only authority relative to them of any value. t Martha’s Vineyard. % Now called JVo-man’s-iand. || Narraganset Bay.294 DE LAET’s DESCRIPTION large and wide, and according to the description of Captain Block must be full nine miles in width; it has in the midst of it a number of islands, which one may pass on either side. It extends east-north-east about twenty-four miles, after which it is not more than two petard shots wide, and has generally seven, eight, nine, five, and four fathoms of water, except in a strait in the uppermost part of the bay, at a petard shot’s distance from an island in that direction, where there is but nine feet water. Beyond this strait we have again three and a half fathoms of water; the land in this vicinity appears very fine, and the inhabitants seem strong of limb and of moderate size. They are somewhat shy, howTever, since they are not ac- customed to trade with strangers, who would otherwise go there in quest of beaver and fox sldns, &c., for which they resort to other places in that quarter. From the westerly passage into this bay of Nassau to the most southerly entrance of Anchor bay, the distance is twenty-one miles, according to the statement of our skippers, and the course is south-east and north-west. Our countrymen have given two names to this bay, as it has an island in the centre and discharges into the sea by two mouths, the most easterly of which they call Anchor bay, and the most westerly Sloop bay.* The south-east shore of this bay runs north-east by north and north-north-east. In the lower part of the bay dwell the Wapenocks, a nation of savages like the rest. Capt. Adrian Block called the people who inhabit the west side of this bay Nahicans, and their sagamore Nathattow; another chief was named Cachaquant. Towards the north-west side there is a sandy point with a small island, bearing east and west, and bending so as to form a handsome bay with a sandy bottom. On the right of the sandy point there is more than two fathoms water, and farther on three and three and a half fath- oms, with a sharp bottom, where lies an island of a reddish appearance. From Sloop bay, or the most westerly passage, it is twenty-four miles to the Great Bay, [Long Island Sound,] which is situated between the main land and several islands,! that extend to the mouth of the Great River [Hudson]. In this great bay are many islands both large and small, that have no particular names, so far as is known to us, except that on a chart of this quarter made some years since, several small islands are laid down at the entrance to this great bay, near what we should • These names appear to have been given to the different entrances into Narraganset Bay. f On ihe early Dutch maps, Long Island is laid down as a group of islands, into which it was supposed to be divided by the various inlets. The imperfect map accompanying the Latin edition of this work, (1633,) has this error among others.OF THE NEW-NETHERLANDS. 295 call Fisher’s Hook [Montauk Point,] to which the name of Gesellen (the Companions,) is applied. And another, called Long Island, lies over across the bay, to avoid which, when approaching Fisher’s Hook and running for Fresh river, one must steer to the north-west. Towards the main land within the bay lies a crooked point, behind which there is a small stream or inlet, which was called by our people East river, since it extends towards the east. There is another small river towards the wTest where the coast bends, which our countrymen called the river of Siccanemos after the name of the Sagimos or Sacmos ; here is a good har- bour or roadstead behind a sand-point about half a mile from the western shore in two and a half fathoms water. The river comes for the most part from the north-east, and is in some places very shallow", having but nine feet of water at the con- fluence of a small stream, and in others places only six feet. Then there are kills or creeks with full five fathoms water, but navi- gation for ships extends only fifteen or eighteen miles. Salmon are found there. The people who dwell on this river, according to the statements of our people, are called Pequatoos, (Pequods) and are the enemies of the Wapanoos.* A small island lies to the south-west by south from this river, as the coast runs ; near the west end of it a north-west by west moon causes low water. We next find on the main a small stream to which our people gave the name of the Little fresh river, where some trade is carried on with the natives, who are called Morhicans. Next, in the south-west, succeeds a river named by our countrymen Fresh river, (the Connecticut,) which is shallow at its mouth, and lies between two courses, north by east and wrest by north; but according to conjecture, allowing for both, its general direction is from the north-north-west. In some places it is very shallow, so that at about forty-five miles up the river there is not much more than five feet of water. There are few inhabitants near the mouth of the river, but at the dis- tance of forty-five miles above they become numerous; their nation is called Sequins.f From this place the river stretches thirty miles, mostly in a northerly direction, but is very crook- ed ; the racks or reaches extend from north-east to south-west, and it is impossible to sail through them with a head wrind. The depth of water varies from ten to twelve feet, which is the * The river here described is the Thames, navigable fourteen miles to Nor wich, in Connecticut. f Trumbull, History of Connecticut, mentions a Pyquaug sagamore called Sequin, who was living when the English commenced their settlements on Con- neticut river. Pyquaugs, afterwards Weathersfield, was just forty-five miles from the mouth of the river.. 296 DE LAET’s DESCRIPTION greatest, to eight or nine, and sometimes to four and five, and then to eight and nine again. The natives plant maize, or In- dian corn, and in the year 1614, they had a village resembling a fort for protection against the attacks of their enemies. They are called Nawaas, and the sagamore was named Morahieck. They term the bread made of maize in their language, leganick. This place is situated in latitude 41° 48'. The river is not navigable with yachts for more than six miles farther, as it is ver}^ shallow and has a rocky bottom. Within the land dwells another nation of savages, who are called Horikans ; they ascend the river in canoes made of bark. This river has al- ways a downward current, so that no assistance is derived from it in going up, but a favourable wind is necessary.* From Fresh river to another called the river of Roodeberg, it is twenty-four miles, west by north and east by south ; this stream stretches east-north-east, and is about a bow-shot wide, being a depth of three and a half fathoms at high water. It rises and falls about six feet; a south-east by south moon causes high water at its mouth. The natives who dwell here are called Quiripeys rf They take many beavers, but it is neces- sary for them to get into the habit of trade, otherwise they aie too indolent to hunt the beaver. Twelve miles further to the east there lies a small island, wrhere good water is to be found; and twelve miles beyond there are a number of islands, so that Captain Block gave the name of Archipelagos to the group. The great bay is there about twelve miles wide. There is a small stream on the main that does not extend more than a mile and a half from the shore, when it becomes perfectly dry. The natives are here called Siwanoos, and dwell along the coast for twenty-four miles to the neighbourhood of Hellegat. At the entrance of this bay, as we have already mentioned, are situated several islands, or broken land, on which a nation of savages have their abode, who are called Matouwacks; they obtain a livelihood by fish- ing within the bay; whence the most easterly point of the land received the name of Fisher’s Hook, and also Cape de Baye (now Montauk Point). This cape and Block Island are situated about twelve miles apart, in a course east by north and west by south. * This description of the Connecticut was probably derived from the Journal of Captain Adrian Block, and is the earliest account of the river extant. Block was unquestionably the first European who explored it. Trumbull, History of Conneticut, says, “None of the ancient adventurers, who discovered the conti- nent of North America, in New-England, made any discovery of this river. It does not appear that it was known to any civilized nation until some years after the settlement of the English and Dutch at Plymouth and New-Netherlands.” Block’s discovery was, it would seem, before both, viz. A. D. 1614. t Quinncpi-cick was the Indian name of New-Haven ; Roodeberg, or Red hill, the Dutch name.OF THE NEW-NETHERLANDS. 297 Hellegat, as named by our people, is another river, according to the description of Captain Adrian Block, that flows from the great bay into the great river; and the current according to his statement, comes a distance of about one hundred and eleven miles east of the great river. The two currents of the great river and the Hellegat, meet one another near Nutten Island (now Governor’s Island).* In coming from the great river to the bay, the reaches extend east by north, and east-north- east and east-south-east, formed almost entirely by islands. The natives here bring on board the ships oysters, squirrels, and wild ducks. We have now come to the great river, of which we shall next speak. Chapter IX. Of the great North river of the New-Netherlands, and its situation. The great north river of the New-Netherlands was called by some the Manhattps river, from the people who dwell near its mouth; by others, also, Rio de Montaigne, or River of the Mountain; but by our countrymen it was generally called the Great River. There is a large bay at its entrance, which is now named by our captains Port May, barred at its mouth by a sandy point; and off the eastern hook of the river extends a reef, that must be very bold, since wThile we have twelve fath- oms water on one part of it, there are only five or six on another, and again but one and a half, with a firm bottom. About five miles within the hook of the river, near the eastern shore, lies an island not more than a mile and a half in extent, to which our people gave the name of Nutten Island, because excellent nut trees grow there. On the east side, upon the main land, dwell the Manatthans, a bad race of savages, who have always been very obstinate and unfriendly towards our countrymen. On the west side are the Sanhickans, who are the deadly enemies of the Manatthans, and a much better people ; they dwell within the sandy hook, and along the bay, as well as in the interior of the country. The entrance to this river lies in latitude 40° 28’ or 30’. Over against Nutten Island, or the western side of it, there are four other small islands.*)* The river is fourteen or fifteen fath- * What is now called East river is here described as Hellegat river, and its current is reckoned from the eastern entrance of Long Island Sound. The word gat has the sense of gut when used nautically, as the Gut of Canso, &e. f Only two of these islands are now remaining, but it is said that the rocks where the others once lay, are to be seen at low water. 38298 DE LAET’S DESCRIPTION oms deep at its mouth, and continues of that depth in a straight channel; it is for the most part a musket shot wide, but varies somewhat in its width. Its course is between north-east and north-north-west, according as the reaches extend. Within the first reach, on the western bank of the river, where the land is low, there dwells a nation of savages, named Tappaans. The river here is quite shallow in the middle, but deep on both sides. The stream is greatest and flows north and south out of the northern entrance, and a south-east and north-west moon causes the highest tides. About three miles inland there is a bay sheltered from all winds, nearly twenty miles in circuit; there flows here a strong flood and ebb, but the ebb is not more than four feet, on account of the great quantity of water that comes from above, overflowing the low lands in the spring. The second reach of the river extends upward to a narrow part, named by our people Haverstroo ; then comes the Seyl- maker’s reach, as they call it; and next a crooked reach, in the form of a crescent, called Kock’s reach. Next is Hogerack, and then follows Vossen reach, which extends to Klinckers- bergh ; this is succeeded by Fisher’s reach, where, on the east bank of the river, dwells a nation of savages called Pachami. This reach extends to another narrow pass, where, on the west side of the river, there is a point of land that juts out covered with sand, opposite a bend in the river, on which another nation of savages, the Waoranecks, have their abode, at a place called Esopus. A little beyond on the west side, where there is a creek, and the river becomes more shallow, the Warana-wan- kougs reside; here are several small islands. Next comes another reach called Klaverack, where the water is deeper on the west side, while the eastern side is sandy. Then follow Backerrack, John Playsier’s rack, and Yasterack, as far as Hinnenhoek. All these reaches are dotted with sand and shah- low, both on the east side, and in the middle of the river. Finally, the Hertenrack succeeds as far as Kinderhoek; at this place and beyond, the river at its greatest depth has but five fathoms of water, and generally only two or three. Beyond Kinderhoek there are several small islands in the river, one of which was called Beeren Island (Bears* Island). After this we come to a sheltered retreat named Ouwee Ree, and farther on are Sturgeon’s Hook and Fisher’s Hook, over against which, on the east side of the river, dwell the Mohicans. On the east lies a long broken island, through which several creeks find a passage, forming several islands ; on which a fort was erected, in latitude 43 . The tide flows to this place, and the river is navigable for ships. Higher up it becomes so shallow that small skiffs can with difficulty sail there; and one sees in the distance several lofty hills, from which most of the water in theOF THE NEW-NETHERLANDS. 299 river flows. Judging from appearances, this river extends to the great river St. Lawrence, or Canada, since our people as- sure us that the natives come to the fort from that river, and from Quebec and Tadoussac. A fort was built here in the year 1614, upon an island on the west side of the river, where dwell the Mackwaes, the ene- mies of the Mohicans. Almost all those who live on the west side, are enemies of those on the east, and cultivate more in- tercourse and friendship with our countrymen than the latter. The fort was built in the form of a redoubt, surrounded by a moat eighteen feet wide ; it was mounted with two pieces of cannon and eleven swivels, and the garrison consisted of ten or twelve men. Henry Christians first commanded here, and in his absence James Elkens, on behalf of the Company, who, in 1614, received authority from their High Mightinesses, the States General. This Fort was constantly occupied for three years, after which it was suffered to go to decay. On this river there is a great traffick in the skins of beavers, otters, fox- es, bears, minks, catelossen, and the like. The land is excellent and agreeable to the eye, full of noble forest trees and grape vines, and nothing is wanting but the labour and industry of man to render it one of the finest and most fruitful lands in that part of the world; for the Indians who inhabit there are indolent, and some of them a crafty and wicked people. Chapter X. Of the appearance of the land, and the manners of the people on the great river of the Mountains, Henry Hudson who first discovered this river, and all that have since visited it, express their admiration of the noble trees growing upon its banks ; and Hudson has himself described the manners and appearance of the people that he found dwelling within the bay, in the following terms :— “When I came on shore, the swarthy natives all stood around, and sung in their fashion; their clothing consisted of the skins of foxes and other animals, which they dress and make the skins into garments of various sorts. Their food is Turkish wheat, (maize or Indian corn,) which they cook by baking, and it is excellent eating. They all came on board one after another in their canoes, which are made of a single hollowed tree ; their weapons are bows and arrows, pointed with sharp stones, which they fasten with hard resin. They had no houses, but slept under the blue heavens, sometimes on mats of bulrushes interwoven, and sometimes on the leaves of300 BE LAET’S DESCRIPTION trees. They always carry with them all their goods, such as their food and green tobacco, which is strong and good for use. They appear to be a friendly people, but have a great propen- sity to steal, and are exceedingly adroit in carrying away what- ever they take a fancy to/’ In latitude 40° 48', where the savages brought very fine oysters to the ship, Hudson describes the country in the follow- ing manner:—“ It is as pleasant a land as one need tread upon; very abundant in all kinds of timber suitable for ship- building, and for making large casks or vats. The people had copper tobacco pipes, from which I inferred that copper might naturally exist there ; and iron likewise according to the testi- mony of the natives, who, however, do not understand pre- paring it for use.” Hudson also states that they caught in the river all kinds of fresh-water fish with seines, and young salmon and sturgeon. In latitude 42° 18', he landed :*—“ I sailed to the shore,” he says, “ in one of their canoes with an old man, who was the chief of a tribe consisting of forty men and seventeen women; these I saw there in a house well constructed of oak-bark, and circular in shape, so that it had the appearance of being built with an arched roof. It contained a great quantity of maize or Indian corn and beans of the last year’s growth, and there lay near the house for the purpose of drying enough to load three ships, besides what was growing in the fields. On our coming into the house, two mats were spread out to sit upon, and im- mediately some food was served in well made red wooden bowls; two men were also despatched at once with bows and arrows in quest of game, who soon after brought in a pair of pigeons which they had shot. They likewise killed a fat dog, and skinned it in great haste with shells which they had got out of the water. They supposed that I would remain with them for the night, but I returned after a short time on board the ship. The land is the finest for cultivation that I ever in my life set foot upon, (Is het schoonste landt om te bouwen als ick oyt myn leven met voeten betrat,) and it also abounds in trees of every description. The natives are a very good people, for when they saw that I would not remain, they supposed that I was afraid of their bows, and taking the arrows, they broke them in pieces and threw them into the fire. &c.” He found there also vines and grapes, pumpkins and other fruits ; from all of which there is sufficient reason to conclude, that it is a pleasant and fruitful country, and that the natives * The present city of Hudson is inlat. 42 14', near where the adventurous navigator went on shore. The time occupied by him in exploring the river was from Sqpt. 13th to Oct. 3d, as appears from the Journal of his mate, Robert Juet.Otf THE NEW-NETHERLANDS. 301 are well disposed, if they are only well treated ; although they are very changeable, and of the same general character as all the savages in the north. They have no religion whatever, nor any divine worship, much less any political government, except that they have their chiefs whom they call Sackmos, or Sagi- mos. On different occasions some of our people have been en- countered by them and slain ; for they are revengeful and very suspicious, and on this account often engaged in wars among themselves, although remarkably timid and deficient in courage. But with mild and proper treatment, and especially by inter- course with Christians, this people might be civilized and brought under better regulation; particularly if they were placed in contact with a sober and discreet population that cul- tivated good order. They are, besides, very serviceable, and allow themselves to be employed in many things for quite a small compensation ; even to performing a long day’s journey, in which they discover greater fidelity than could be expected of such a people. As to the climate and seasons of the year, they do not ill agree with our countrymen, although it is somewhat colder there than is pleasant; it freezes and snows excessively in winter, so that the river often becomes a solid mass of ice. But this occurs some years more than others, as with us. There is also a great variety of winds in that country, and in summer much thunder and lightning with violent gusts. In short, it is a country well adapted for our people to inhabit, on account of the similarity of the climate and the weather to our own ; especially since it wants nothing that is needful for the subsistence of man, except domestic cattle, which it would be easy to carry there; and besides producing many things of which our own country is destitute. Wine can be made there with industry, since vines are already found that require nothing but cultivation. We have before stated how much the country abounds in timber suitable for ship-building; it is sought by our people for that purpose, who have built there several sloops and tolerable yachts. And particularly Capt. Adrian Block, when his ship was accidentally burnt in the year 1614, constructed there a yacht with a keel thirty-eight feet long, forty-four and a half feet from stem to stern, and eleven and a half feet wide. In this vessel he sailed through Hellegat into the great bay, and explored all the places thereabout; continuing his course as far as Cape Cod, where he fell in with the ship of Henry Chris- tian. He afterwards returned home, and left the yacht on that •coast for further use.302 DE LAET'S DESCRIPTION Chapter XI. Further description of the coast to the second great river, (the Delaware,) and from thence to latitude 38° north. In coming out of the bay that lies at the mouth of the great river of the mountains, we have a tolerably deep channel by keeping the river or its mouth to the north-east, and the outer cape of the high land of the bay to the south-east. From the sandy hook of the bay or Port May to Fishers’ Hook (Montauk Point), or the eastern extremity of the broken land where the Matouwacks dwell, the land stretches to the east and north-east and the distance is about eighty-one or eighty-four miles, ac- cording to the report of some navigators, but according to Cor- nelius Jacob May only seventy-five miles. When one is out- side of the above mentioned hook of Port May, and bound to the south, the coast tends to the south-south-west and north- north-east, and land is visible on both sides. Beyond, the coast runs south-west by south,, and north-east by north, and presents a fine, bold shore, with tolerably high sand hills, extending to a lofty foreland within the land. But farther south the coast is somewhat lower, with but one foot of water along the shore, beyond which water is visible within, and here and there a low sandhill. Continuing our course we meet with a gut- or inlet, and farther on another gut, in about latitude 39° 50', which is called by our people Eyer haven, (Egg-harbour,) and also Bay haven. This is a small river or kill, within which all is broken land, and in the bay are several inconsiderable islands. A little beyond, in the same direction, a tolerably high forest is seen upon a low promontory, and then succeeds a flat sandy shore with very small sand hills or downs ; towards the south lofty woods are again visible, with here and there slight elevations.* From thence to Cape May the coast trends mostly to the east north-east and west south-west, and the guts or inlets are so numerous that there appears to be one for every short mile. 'But one should be cautious not to approach too near the coast, since there are polders or low places enclosed with banks, on which the sea breaks with great violence ; and the water con- stantly grows more shallow, so that at one cast of the lead there may be seven fathoms, at another but five, and a third only three or less. As we approach Cape May, the coast runs west south-west and east-north-east, and twelve or sixteen miles out to sea lies a bank or shelf of sand, where there is but four and * Drommeltien—an obscure and obsolete expression ; the meaning as given above is somewhat conjectural. Drommel van huysen means the raising of a house, &c.OF THE NEW-NETHERLANDS. 303 a half fathoms water, while nearer to the land we have seven fathoms or more. The second river lies also within a great bay, called by our people New Port May : it has two capes or headlands, of which the northern is named Cape May, and the southern Cape Cor- nelius, and these two capes lie east-north-east, well to the north, and west south-west, well to the south, of one another, so far distant that one is scarcely able to see across with the eye. To the south-west of Cape May, and full half-way over towards Cape Cornelius to the south-south-east, there are sandbanks; the bay also within is full of sand bars and shoals, so that numerous channels are formed, rendering the bay highly dan- gerous to those unacquainted with it. Within this bay is another large river, called the South river, of which we have spo- ken in the seventh chapter; and several smaller streams, which I shall describe hereafter, as the true bearing and further situa- tion of the coast, as observed by our navigators, have not reach- ed me, although some of them are well acquainted with these rivers, which they discovered and have visited for several years. Several nations of savages inhabit the banks of these rivers, namely, the Sawanoos, Sanhickans, Minquaas, Capita- nesses, Gacheos, Sennekaas, Canomakers, Naratekons, Kone- kotays, Matanakouses, Armeomeks, &c. nearly all of whom are of the same character and condition as those we have alrea- dy described. They plant and raise maize, beans, and whatever else other natives possess. The most southerly cape, called by us Cape Cornelius, has a white shining appearance, and a reef runs off from it to the south-south-east, to the sea; it is situated in latitude 38° 54\ Twelve miles from this cape lies another, wrhich our countrymen call Cape Hinlopen, and the course is north-east by east and south-west by south. From here the coast stretches first most- ly north and south, and then south-west and north-north-east, and also south-west and north-east. Along the shore there is six and seven fathoms water, and the bottom is excellent; then again in two or three tacks we have only three fathoms. From hence to latitude 38° 18' the land trends to the south-west, well to the south, and north-east, well to the north, with a very small foreland, and within there is a spacious body of water together with low broken land ; this continues for about twenty-four miles. To the south the land runs mostly north-east by east and south-west by west, and is a very uneven bottom, varying from six to seven and five fathoms water.TRANSLATIONS FROM ,T H E LATIN AND FRENCH EDITIONS ,OJ DE LAET’S NEW WORLD; 1633—1640. BY THE EDITOR. NOVUM BELGIUM, or NEW NETHERLANDS.7 Book III.—Chapter. VII. Description of that part ’of the continent of North America which was first more fully explored and settled by our countrymen. Thus far we have treated of that part of North America which the French first explored, and having planted colonies therein, had for some time occupied ; but which the English have of late endeavoured to reduce into possession, setting up a claim thereto, and distinguishing it by the names of New England and New Scotland. In our preceding book, we took a survey of this coast as far as the promontory called by the French Cape Ma- lebarre, but in the former chapters of the present book, following the more recent explorations of the English, we reached Cape Cod. From Cape Malebarre, (taking our departure from that point,) the coast makes a great bend to the west, and forms as it were a bay, into whose bosom a large river discharges itself, and finally into the sea; and from the mouth of which the coast again bends to the south. This territory including a number of islands, extending from lat. 38° 30’, (where another large river discharges,) to lat. 44°, and beyond within the land, we now denominate New Netherlands, because this part of. the country was first more fully explored under the auspices and at the expense of our people, and afterwards, having been constantly visited and finally colonized under the authority ofOP THE NEW-NETHERLANDS. 305 the most illustrious States General, first received the arts of civilization*from the Netherlanders, who erected a fortification on its soil with the consent of the native inhabitants. The bend in the coast had, indeed, been observed by others, and the shores even seen and approached in the neighbourhood of Cape Malebarre, but none had noticed, so far as appears, that a noble river, covered with boats and inhabited by nume- rous and varied tribes of people, flowed into the farther part of the bay thus formed, until the discovery was made by our peo- ple in the year 1609. The East India Company had des- patched Henry Hudson, an Englishman, in a small bark, towards the northern coast of America, for the purpose of dis- covering a passage to Tartary and China; in which proving unsuccessful, he changed his course, and approached New France in lat 44° 15b Afterwards running to the south, he saw land in lat. 41° 43!, and supposing it to be an island he named it New Holland; but it soon after appeared that it was a part of the main land, and the promontory of Cape Blanc or Cod, which, judging from his reckoning and observations, was seventy-five miles further to the west than it was laid down on the charts. When they had examined the coast in various places, and had gone as far south as lat. 37°, (either from necessity or other- wise,) they returned along the coast as far as lat. 40°, where they entered a spacious bay, and cast anchor behind a low and sandy cape. Here they were visited by two savages clothed in elk skins, and hospitably received; and on the shore they gathered blue plums that were ripe, and saw around them noble oaks, poplars, and other trees. Afterwards weighing anchor they entered the river itself, and ascended to lat. 43°, where the channel became narrower, and too shallow for large vessels, and it appeared from indubitable signs, that no Europeans had before visited the river. When, therefore, Hudson had returned towards the end of autumn to Amsterdam in his bark, and made known what he had discovered respecting this river, (which he called Manhattes, from the name of the people who dwelt at its mouth,) immedi- ately, in 1610, some Amsterdam merchants sent thither a ves sel loaded with a variety of goods, and having obtained from the States General exclusive authority to visit the river and neigh- bouring regions for purposes of trade, they carried on a commerce with the natives for several succeeding years; for which pur- pose our people remained there during winter, and finally, in 1615, built a fort under the auspices of the States General, and garrisoned it with soldiers, as we shall relate hereafter. Such was the commencement of what resulted in the application of the name New Netherlands to that part of the northern conti- nent, which continues to this day. 39306 DE LAETV DESCRIPTION Chapter VIII. A particular description of New-Netherlands in respect to the situation of the Coast. The main land, as we have already stated, changes its direc- tion from Cape Malebarre to the west, being studded, with many islands,, and the coast itself being so much intersected by bays and inlets that it is doubtful whether it deserves most the name of continent or island, about which authors differ. Having passed the Cape, a small island presents itself at the bend of the shore, six miles from the main land, and not more than three miles in extent, which is called Petockenock. Near this, to the west, is an oblong and spacious island, which our people, on account of its resemblance to Texel call by the same name. Next on the south, at the distance of three or four miles, lies another, which they call from its discoverer Henry Christian’s Island, but the English apparently Martha)s Vineyard, in lat. 41° 15'. It is said to be fifteen miles in circumference, and abounds in trees and birds, with every convenience for fishing. A small island succeeds near the main land, which they call from its appearance Dover cliff; and two miles beyond is Eli- zabeth’s island, in lat. 41° 10', in the middle of which is a pool of pure water, and a rocky elevation that the English undertook to fortify, but abandoned it. The last of these islands is the one which Capt. Adrian Block called after his own name. But let us return to the continent. Here first a bay discloses itself, (which some consider a river,) called Nassau, six miles wide at its entrance, which is obstructed by islands, and about eight fathoms deep ; afterwards it becomes narrower, terminat- ing as it were in a point, with a depth of four, five, and some- times nine fathoms, except in the extreme recess where it is more shallow. It is surrounded by a pleasant and fertile coun- try, inhabited by sturdy barbarians, who are difficult of ac- cess, not being accustomed yet to intercourse with strangers. At the distance of twenty-one miles west of this bay, there is another, divided by an island at its entrance, so that it has two names ; for the part on the east is called Anchor, and that on the west Boat bay. The savages who dwell around this bay are called Wapenokes, though it is said by others that the western side is inhabited by the Nalucans. Twenty-four miles or thereabout beyond, we enter a very large bay, enclosed by the land for a long distance, or rather by islands intersected by channels, of which there is a great number, until we reach the mouth of theOF THE NEW-NETHERLANDS. 307 great river. There are also numerous small islands, to which no particular names have been given, navigators taking the liberty of changing them arbitrarily. Near the entrance of this bay the main land forms a crooked prominence in the shape of a sickle, behind which an inlet receives a small stream, that flows from the east and has received its name from our people. Another little river discharges on the same part of the coast, which derives its name from a chief of the natives, called Sic- canamos ; here is a very convenient roadstead. Behind a small promontory there is another stream that is navigable for fifteen or eighteen miles ; here salmon are taken. The native inhabi- tants are called Pequatoes, who are the enemies of the Wapa- nokes. From thence the coast turns a little to the south, and a small river is seen which our people named Frisius, where a trade is carried on with the Morhicans. Next comes a river called by our countrymen De Versche Riviere, or Fresh river, which is shallow and shoaly at its mouth, so that it is difficult for small vessels to ascend it; near the sea there are but few inhabitants, but within the interior of the country dwell the Sequins, at the distance of forty-five miles ; the Nawes are the next above, who cultivate the land and plant maize, from which they bake cakes, called by them leganick. In the year 1614, they were defended by a kind of palisade in the form of a camp against their enemies, in lat. 41° 48', as I find it was observed by our people. Beyond live the Horikans, who are accustomed to descend this river in boats made of the bark of trees sewed together. Another river meets us twenty-four miles west of this, to which the name of red hills has been given; the Querepees in- habit its banks ; many beaver are taken here, since a demand for our goods has stimulated the naturally slothful savages. Twelve miles west an island presents itself, and soon after many more are seen, whence our people called this place Archipelago. The bay is here twelve miles wide ; on the main reside the Suwanoes, similar in dress and manners to the other savages. I have remarked that the large bay was enclosed by several islands, separated from one another only by small channels. These are inhabited by a race of savages who are devoted to fishing, and thus obtain their subsistence ; they are called Ma- touwacks. The name of Fisher’s Hook has thus been given to the eastern cape of these islands, which somee consider the head of the bay. In the interior of this bay a branch of the great river, or another river as others consider it, discharges, which our people call Helle-gat, or the entrance to the infernal regions (inferni os). The current of the sea setting from the east to the west, meets another current of the great river near308 DE laet’s description an island, which our countrymen called Nutten Island, from the great abundance of nuts which it produces. Chapter IX. Of the Great or North River of the New-Netherlands, and the different people who dwell near it. The great river of New-Netherlands is called by some Man- hattes, doubtless from the people who reside near its mouth; by others the river of the mountain ; by some also Nassau, but more frequently by our countrymen the Great North river, to distinguish it from another which flows into the same ocean more towards the south. Near the mouth of this river there is a bay of moderate extent which our people commonly call Port May, from the name of Capt. Cornelius May ; it is shut in from the ocean by several islands and a sandy point extending to- wards the east, and on account of rocks and shoals is dangerous to navigators, although behind the point there is a convenient an- chorage for ships. The people who dwell about this bay are called Aquamachuques. In entering the river from the sandy point, at the distance of three miles or more within the entrance, there is an island which derives its name from the nut trees that grow on it, as we have already stated ; opposite to which on the left or western side of the river lie three or four islands near shore. The mouth of this river is in 40° 28' or 30' north latitude. The channel at its mouth is fourteen or fifteen fath- oms deep, and preserves nearly the same depth in its course, sometimes wider and sometimes narrower ; and with various windings it ascends towards the north and north-west. On the right or eastern bank of the river from its mouth dwell the Manhattce or Manatthanes, a fierce nation and hostile to our people, from whom nevertheless they purchased the island or point of land which is separated from the main by Helle gat, (le trou d’enfer, of which we have already spoken,) and where they laid the foundations of a city, called New Amsterdam. On the left or western side of the river dwell the Sanhikans, the deadly enemies of the former nation, and a better and more decent people ; they live along the shores of the bay and within the land. Opposite to the Manhattans dwell the Machkentiioomi, and within the first bend of the river on the same side the Tappaanes. The river is here shallow in the middle, but along its banks on each side it preserves its depth, and forms a bay which is about eighteen miles in circuit, and protects ships against the uncertainty of the winds, when necessary. TheOP THE NEW-NETHERLANDS. 309 flowing and ebbing of the sea are here sufficiently strong, but on account of the immense quantity of water which comes from above, the river falls not more than four feet, and very often in the spring overflows its banks where they are low. The second bend of the river is toward the north-west extend- ing to a narrow part which our people call Haverstroo, and thus with various windings it reaches a place which our coun- trymen call Vischer’s Rack, that is, the fisherman’s bend. And here the eastern bank is inhabited by the Pachami ; a little beyond where projects a sandy point, and the river becomes narrower, there is a place called Esopus, where the Waorane- kys, another barbarous nation have their abode. To these suc- ceed after a short interval the Waranawancougys, on the oppo- site side of the river; from hence ascending by various wind- ings of the shore which our people distinguish by particular names, we reach another small point where the channel dimi- nishes in depth and has not more than three or four fathoms, being interrupted by frequent shallows and sand bars, occasion- ing greater delay than danger; then comes Bears’ island, (Ur- sorurn insula, or Beeren eylandt), and behind it a small bay which they call Old Harbor. On the right bank of the river opposite this island dwell the Manhicans, and along the shore extends an oblong island in- tersected by various channels, so that it seems to be several islands ; then we reach another island where our countrymen formerly had a small fort. The tide flows as far as this place and the river is covered with large vessels ; but above the river diminishes rapidly in depth and is scarcely sufficient for small boats. Lofty mountains are seen in the distance ; from them the greatest part of the water with which this river is filled, de- scends ; but its sources are supposed not to be very far distant from the great river of Canada, since not unfrequently the Indians come to our fort from Quebec and Tadousac. This fort which we call Orange, is situated on an island adjacent to the left bank of the river, which a nation of barbarians inhabit whom they call Mackwas, the enemies of the Manhikans who occupy the right bank of the river. Nearly all the savages on the western side are hostile to those on the eastern side of the river. In this fort were formerly placed several pieces of can- non and a small garrison of soldiers under the auspices of the illustrious States General of the United Provinces of the Nether- lands, which Henry Christian and afterwards Jacob Elkens commanded ; and thus our people from the year 1614, for seve- ral successive years, occupied it, until the West India Company having received a new and most ample charter from the same powerful Lords, began soon to send their ships to this river, and the colonization of the country was more fully undertaken.310 DE LAET’s DESCRIPTION Chapter X. The nature of the climate and soil, the fruits, plants, fyc. of the New Netherlands. Our countrymen who first explored this river, and those who subsequently made frequent voyages thither, describe the won- derful size of the trees, (a good proof of the luxuriance of the soil,) suitable for edifices and vessels of the largest class. Wild grape vines are abundant, and walnut trees, the fruit of which differs from ours, being smaller and the shell harder and smooth- er. This is also the case with other trees, shrubs, and plants that grow spontaneously; but when cultivated with the labour and industry of man, maize or Indian corn, for example, yields a prolific return. So with various kinds of pulse, especially beans, which have an admirable variety of colours ; pumpkins of the finest species, melons, and similar fruits of a useful charac- ter ; so that nothing is wanting but human industry. Our peo- ple have begun in different places to sow wheat and several other kinds of grain, and also flax, hemp, and other European seeds, to which the soil is extremely well adapted. There is a great variety of herbaceous plants, some of which bear splen- did flowers, and others are considered valuable for their medi- cinal properties. I cannot avoid describing here two of this class, although it is not known whether they possess any useful qualities. Two plants were sent to me from New Netherlands that grew finely last year in a medical garden of this city, one of which I have caused to be figured below, but the other was de- stroyed by the inclemency of the winter before it could be drawn. They were congeners, though differing somewhat in shape and the structure of the leaves and stalks. They agreed in having their leaves of the form of the iron head, with which the East Indians and Africans point their darts ; both likewise had tender and very flexible stalks, either four or five angled, rough with small prickles, (exiguis sentibus asperi,) and no- dose or jointed; the leaves growing from the joints, and other footstalks springing from the axils of the leaves. They differed in these respects ;—the leaves of the one that perished, were broader and smooth on both sides ; of the other, beside being narrower, the under side was rough and of a less deeper green ; in the second place, the leaves of the former were supported by long petioles, while those of the latter had very short ones ; thirdly, the stems of the former were of a greenish red colour, of the latter wholly green; and finally, while the first seemedOF THE NEW-NETHERLANDS. 311 to bear no flowers, on the latter, both from the joints and the summit of the principal stalk sprang minute flowers of a red- dish white colour, resembling in form and general appearance the flowers of the water pepper, except that those of the Ame- rican plant are somewhat handsomer, and grow in clusters of a more globular form. Some one has remarked that one of these plants might be the male and the other the female, per- haps not without good reason. Both perished last winter, on which account I was unable to make farther observations. I here add a figure of the flowering plant.* The forests every where contain a great variety of wild ani- mals, especially of the deer kind, and other quadrupeds that are indigenous to this part of North America. Innumerable birds are also found here, both large and small, those that frequent the rivers and lakes, as well as the forests, possessing a plu- mage of great elegance and variety of colours. In winter supe- rior turkey cocks are taken ; they are very fat, and their flesh is of the best quality. The rivers produce excellent fish, such as the salmon, sturgeon, and many others. The temperature of the climate differs little from our own; for although the country is many degrees nearer to the equator than the Netherlands, yet it is not less cold in winter ; the frost is very intense ; deep and frequent snows fall and cover the ground for a long time, with the same variety of seasons as with us. The winds are equally changeable ; and in summer there is much thunder and lightning with violent showers. I am therefore of the opinion that scarcely any part of America is better adapted for the settlement of colonies from this quarter, especially since nothing is wanting that is necessary to sustain life, and the soil can be rendered still more productive by labour and industry; cattle only are wanted, which can be easily transported there and kept with the utmost convenience on ac- count of the abundance of fodder found almost every where. The grape vines also, if properly attended to, seem to promise a rich supply of wine.t * A drawing of the plant appears in both the Latin and French editions of the work, from which, in connexion with the imperfect description in the text, it appears to have been a species of Polygonum, probably from the shape of its leaves, P. sagittatum, or scratch grass, a common weed. f The author’s interest in the country as a patroon and a director of the West India Company, leads him to speak favorably of it, but without exaggeration. It will be noticed that but a small portion of these chapters is contained in the original Dutch edition.312 DE LAET S DESCRIPTION Chapter XI. The Manners and Customs of the Natives of New-Nether- lands, and the language of the Sankikans. The barbarians being divided into many nations and people, differ much from one another in language though very little in manners ; they possess the same constitution of body as those that inhabit a great part of New France. Their clothing is composed of the skins of wild animals, especially beavers, foxes, and the like, sewed together in the manner of savages, with which they cover themselves entirely in winter, and slightly in summer. Their food principally consists of maize or Indian corn, from which they bake cakes resembling bread ; fish, birds, and wild game. Their weapons are bows and arrows, the latter pointed with sharp flint stones or the bones of fishes. Their boats are one piece of wood, hollowed out by fire from the solid trunks of trees. Some of them lead a wandering life in the open air with no settled habitations ; lying stretched upon the ground or on mats made of bulrushes, they^take both their sleep and food, especially in summer, when they go nearer to the sea for the sake of fishing. Others have fixed places of abode, and dwellings built with rafters in the form of an oven, covered above with the bark of trees, so large that they are sufficient for several families. Their household furniture is mean and scanty, consisting of mats and wooden dishes, together with hatchets made of hard flint stone by dint of savage labour, and tubes for smoking tobacco formed likewise of flint stone ingeni- ously perforated, so that it is surprising how, in so great a want of iron implements, they are able to carve the stone. They neither know nor desire riches. They have no sense of religion, no worship of God; they indeed pay homage to the devil, but not so solemnly nor with such ceremonies as the Africans do. They call him in their language Menutto or Menetto, and whatever is wonderful and seems to exceed human capacity, they also call Me- netto ; evidently in the same manner as we have mentioned above the Canadians use the word Oqui. They have no form of political government, except that they have their chiefs whom they call sackmos and sagamos, who are almost always the heads of families, for they rarely exceed the limits of one family connexion. They are like most barbarians suspicious and fearful, although greedy of revenge; they are fickle, but if humanely treated, hospitable and ready to perform a ser- vice ; they ask only a small remuneration for what they do, andOF THE NEW-NETHERLANDS. 313 will make very long journeys in a short time with greater fide- lity than could be justly expected from such a barbarous people. Nor is it to be doubted that by associating with Christians they could be imbued with religion and correct manners, especially if there should be planted among them colonies of well ordered people, who would employ their services without violence or abuse, and by degrees accustom them to the worship of the true God and the habits of civilized life. I cannot omit giving some idea of the language of these bar- barians, (as I have done with others,) and especially of the Sankikans, who dwell on the upper part of the South river, as we shall presently relate. Their names of numerals are the following :— 1 Cotte 6 Cottash 20 Myssynach 70 Nyssastigen 2 Nyss6 7 Nyssas 30 Nackynagh 80 Gahashynagh 3 Nacha 8 Gechas 40 Weywynagh 90 Pescongynach 4 Wywe 9 Pescon 50 Parathg}mah 100 Cottapach. 5 Parenagh 10 Terren 60 Cottegynagh The parts of the human body are thus named. Head, Wyer. Eye, Mouth, Tongue, Shoulder, Schinquoy. Toonne. Wyeranou. Duchke. Arms, Nachk. Nails, Hyckaes. Stomach, These. Feet, Syt. Hair, Mytrach. Nose, Akywan. Lip, Chettoen. Chin, Hochquoy. Breast, Toorsay. Fingers, Rinskan. Nerve, Cheet. Belly, Nathey. Forehead, N achkaronck. Ear, Hyttrwack. T ooth, Wypyt. Neck, Nequoykangan. Breasts, Noenackan. Thumb, Rideren. Blood, Mohocht. Thigh, Promine. The names of the sexes are— Male, Renoes. Female, Orquoywe. The elements, &c. :—Fire, Tinteywe; Water, Empye ; Frost, Kepatten ; Snow, Wynoywee; Tree, Hitteocke ; River, Soukeree ; Hail, Tasseckii. The names of animals :—Deer, Atto ; Bear, Machquoyvo ; Beaver, Temaquoy; Wolf, Metumnu; Lion, Synquoy Mackyrggh ; Otter, Counamoch ; Dog, Aram ; Fox, Woucous. Of birds:—Swan, Wynkyckso ; Duck, Comconcke ; Tur- key, Sickenum ; Partridge, Ourikinck ; Crane, Tarecka; Tur- tle Dove, Mymy ; Goose, Ciahack. 40314 DE LAET’s DESCRIPTION Of fishes :—Pike, Caopyte ; Eel, Syackameck; Trout, Cackykane ; Perch, Caycakanesse. Qualities :—Good, Ouret; Bad, Matet* Chapter XII. A Description of the maritime coast to the other river, and to 38° north latitude. Between the sandy point (Sandy Hook) that wre have said shuts in the bay, as it were, at the entrance of the North river, and the extremity of the islands which the Mattou- wacky inhabit, the distance is seventy-five miles, according to the most correct observations of our countrymen, from north- east to south-west, and the sea preserves almost half the dis- tance a channel sufficiently deep. In leaving this bay and sail- ing along the coast to the south, the land appears first lofty and visible on both sides, extending towards the south and then bend- ing a little more to the west without breakers or shoals ; near the shore on the main land are seen sand hills, but a little be- yond the land sensibly declines and becomes lower, the shore being separated from the continent by intermediate water. The surface of the sea is almost uninterrupted except that here and there small banks of sand are seen, and the shore being inter- sected by inlets affords a passage for the water of the ocean in several places ; this is the case in an especial manner in lat. 39° 15; at a place our countrymen call Egg Harbour, or Bay- port ; for here the shore being penetrated by the waters of the ocean receives them into an open bay in which several small islands are dispersed. After passing this harbour, woods are observed near the shore, and presently a number of sandy hills ; then the shore becomes low ; forests and sometimes one or more hillocks are seen. All this coast bears to the south-west as far as the entrance of another bay of considerable extent, lying between two promontories several leagues apart, of which the one on the north is called Cape May, and the one on the south Cape Cornelius from the first discoverer. This bay is extremely hazardous to navigators on account of the frequent shoals and sand bars, so that it cannot be entered without the greatest danger, except with a very skilful pilot; nevertheless there are channels of sufficient depth among the shoals. Into the bosom of this bay flows a great river, descending • This vocabulary consists of words in the language of the Delawares, and proves that the Sanhickans belonged to that nation. See Gallatin on the Indian languages, in Transactions Am. Antiq. Soc. vol. ii.OF THE NEW-NETHERLANDS. 315 from the interior of the country, which is called South river to distinguish it from the other of which we have already spoken, and it has been explored by several of our navi- gators. There are besides a number of smaller streams that discharge into this bay. But since a satisfactory account of this river has not yet reached us, I shall omit saying any thing more concerning it. I only add that various nations of savages inhabit its banks and possess the interior districts. On a small- er stream that flows into the bay a little below the mouth of the large river, dwell the Sewapoos; immediately above on the right hand are the Siconysy, and on the left the Minquasy ; higher up are the Naraticongy, Mantaesy, Armevvamexy, all of whom in the order of which we have mentioned them, inhabit the right bank near the smaller streams that empty into the larger river. Farther removed from the river are the Mce- roahkongy, Amqkaraongky, Remkokes, Minquosy or Machoe- retini, Atsayongky; and the farthest removed of all are the Mattikongy and Sankikanes, who extend to the fortieth degree of north latitude and are about fifty-four miles from the mouth of the river ; some of them are adjacent to the Sawanos, Capi- tanasses, Gacheos, and others who differ little or nothing in their mode of life and manners from those whom we have al- ready described ; they cultivate the land and subsist on maize and beans. Moreover Cape Cornelius, as they call it, is in 38° and 55’ north latitude ; from thence following the direction of the coast which trends to the south-west, we meet at the dis- tance of twelve miles with another cape which our people call Hinlopen, from which the direction of the coast is at first south erly and afterwards south-west as far as latitude 38°, where we stop for the present. NOTE. It has probably been observed that a slight discrepancy exists in the statements of our author in respect to the precise date of the erection of the first fort on the river. In one place, (p. 291,) he refers to the year 1615, as the time; and in another, (p. 299,) he mentions the building of a redoubt on an island nearly in the lati- tude of Albany during the previous year. The later editions of the work contain the same statements without any material varia- tion. Bancroft supposes that De Laet confounded the fort near Albany with one built at the mouth of the river in 1614, where Adrian Block (not 1 Blok1) had his quarters in that year ; adding316 DE LAET’S DESCRIPTION, &C. that “ the Dutch Records prove there was no fort at Albany till 1615.”* This supposition does not, however, reconcile the dis- crepancies in De Laet, who in mentioning the year 1615 evidently intends it as the date of the first fort on the river, without stating its particular locality. Mr. Barnard, whose excellent memoir of the late Stephen Van Rensselaer has been already cited, considers the proof to which Bancroft refers as “ too indefinite and uncertain to control the direct testimony in the case.”t The “ direct testimony” is the statement of De Laet; but since that author is not consistent with himself in this matter, as we have seen, no reliance can be placed \ on the precise accuracy of the dates given by him. The colonial records are therefore appealed to with manifest propriety for the determination of the point in dispute. A greater importance has been attached to this question than really belongs to it, from the circumstance that the priority of set- tlement on the river seemed to depend upon it. SmithJ and other writers have stated the matter in such a way as to lead to the pre- valent impression that Albany was settled before the city of New- York. But granting for the sake of argument, that the fort at Alba- ny was built prior to any on Manhattan Island, it does not follow that the settlement was made earlier at the former place; since it is quite certain that an establishment for the purposes of trade existed on Manhattan island in the year 1613, before it is pretended that any fort was erected on the river. The testimony bearing on this point will be fully given hereafter; at present it is sufficient to say that it is drawn from an early account of the hostile visit of Capt. Samuel Argali, of the Virginia colony, to our waters on his return from an expedition against the French settlements in Acadie, called by the English Nova Scotia. The forts were doubtless built as soon as practicable after this occurrence, but it would be necessary in the first place to send advices to Holland, and to ob- tain from thence the ordnance and other means of defence necessa- ry for the purpose of completing the forts. This may have been partially done during the following year, 1614, but it is not likely to have been fully accomplished, all things considered, (especially the great length of the voyages at that early period,) before the arri- val of the second season. Editor. * Hist. United States, ii. 272—3, notes. f Discourse on the Life and Services o Stephen Van Rensselaer—with an Appendix, containing an Historical Sketch of the Colony of Rensselaerwyck, p. 46. t History of New-York, i, 3.