Cornell Muiversity Library Cornell University Library arV17446 il (inna nu 4 031 275 856 olin, a FRESH-WATER AQUARIA. FRESH-WATER AQUARIA: THEIR CONSTRUCTION, ARRANGEMENT, AND MANAGEMENT, WITH FULL INFORMATION AS TO THE BEST WATER-PLANTS AND LIVE STOCK TO BE KEPT, HOW AND WHERE TO OBTAIN THEM, AND HOW TO KEEP THEM IN HEALTH. BY |. REV. GREGORY C.’BATEMAN, A.K.C. ‘ PROFUSELY ILLUSTRATED. Shis Work forms fhe First Division ~of “Ghe Aquarium Book.” LONDON: L. UPCOTT GILL, 170, STRAND, W.C. 1890. ® PRINTED BY A, BRADLEY, THE LONDON AND COUNTY PRINTING WORKS, 55 TO 57, DRURY LANE, W.C. PREFACE. WAS always fond of Natural History, and while Iwas a boy I frequently looked forward to one day possessing an aquarium so large that I might collect as many aquatic creatures as I liked from the neighbouring ponds and streams, place them all together in my tank, and then make myself quite happy by watching the habits and the changes of my captives. But, alas! in course of time. I found, as so many find, that the realisation of one’s hopes does not always bring with it the anticipated pleasure. For when I did eventually own as big and—as appeared to me at that time—as suitable an aquarium as I could wish for, and when I did stock it with many curious and (to my mind) interesting animals, I was, after all, not very happy, nor even content; far from it. The Sticklebacks and the aquatic Spiders would not build their nests. side by side;. the Dytiscus marginalis absolutely refused to live on anything like friendly terms with the Minnows; the Snails while crawling over my most valued plants were not able to refrain from devouring them and ruining them; the water would not keep: bright, nor the glass of the tank clear, and my patience was sorely tried. I bought or borrowed whatever books I could upon aquarium and kin- dred matters, but I was. not able to obtain all the information I required. Then JI .attempted to find out by experiment vi PREFACE. that which I could not ascertain by reading. After not a few failures and disappointments, most of my attempts were successful, and as I began to have more knowledge of these things, I resolved that I would, at some time or other, try to write such a book as that I wished for so much when I was making my first blunders in aquarium matters. By-and-by, Mr. Upcott Gill was good enough to give me an opportunity of contributing to The Bazaar a series of articles upon the fresh-water aquarium. These articles are now re-published in book form, and so in this way I have kept my resolution and have written my book; but as I finished looking over the “proofs” of its last chapter, I confessed, with not a little mortification, that it fell far short of the book I had hoped to write. However, I shall feel very thankful if I can be the means of saving some keepers of an aquarium from dis- appointment, and many aquatic animals from unnecessary suffering. Before or while writing the above-mentioned articles, I read all or portions of the following books, and to the authors I am more or less indebted: “Land and Fresh-water Shells,” by R. Rimmer, F.LS.; “ British Beetles,” by HE. C. Rye; “Manual of British Beetles,” by J. F. Stephens, F.L.8.; “ British Wild Flowers,” by Miss Pratt; “The Aquarium,” by J. E. Taylor, Ph.D., F.LS., &e.; “The Fresh and Salt-water Aquarium,” by Rev. J. G. Wood, M.A.; “Lakes and Rivers,” by C. O. G. Napier, F.G.S.; “Ponds and Ditches,” by M. C. Cooke, M.A., LL.D.; “Pond Life—Insects,”’ by HE. A. Butler, B.A. B.Se.; “Popular History of the Aquarium,” by G. B. Sowerby, F.L.S.; “The Book of the Aquarium,” -by Shirley Hibberd ; “ Intro- duction to Entomology,” by Kirby and Spence; “The Natural History of British Fishes,” by F. Buckland; “Land and Fresh- water Shells of the British Islands,” by J. EH. Gray, Ph.D., F.R.S.; “Popular History of British Crustacea,” by Adam White; “The Microscope,” by Jabez Hogg, M.R.C.S., F.R.MS.:; “The Home Naturalist,” by Harland Coultas; “Country Walks,” by the Rev. H. Houghton, M.A.; “The Badminton Library ” —“Fishing,”—by H. Cholmondeley Pennell; “L’Aquarium,” PREFACE. vil J. Rothschild, Editeur. In addition to these books, I have consulted Science Gossip and Cassell’s Natural History. There are other books whose names and authors I have forgotten, but some of the useful information which I obtained from them I remember, and for it I am grateful. But the correct- ness or inaccuracy of whatever information I have gained from books or articles, I have tried to prove by practical experience. G. C. B. JACOBSTOWE Rectory, NortH DEVON. July 21, 1890. CHAPTER I. II. TIT. IV. Vv. VI. VII. VIII. IX. XI. XII. XM. XIV. XV. XVI. XVII. CONTENTS. THE AQUARIUM MAKING AQUARIA THE CABINET AQUARIUM CoLLEcTING EQuIPMENT MANAGEMENT OF THE AQUARIUM WATER-PLANTS AMPHIBIANS FIsHES 4 SwaI~s AND LIMPETS MussELs WATER-BEETLES WATER-BUGS OR WATER-MEASURERS, WATER- SCORPIONS, ETC. ... Larva or WATER-FLIES WATER-SPIDERS AND WATER-WORMS ... FRESH-WATER CRUSTACEANS ... Hypra RECAPITULATION INDEX PAGE 25 42 59 92 109 162 187 197 228 271 284 297 302 307 Uniform with ‘ FRESH-WATER AQUARIA,” ARINE AQUARIA: Their Con- struction, Arrangement, and Management; with Full Information as to the best Animals and Seaweeds to be Kept, How and Where to Obtain them, and How to Keep them in Health. FULLY ILLUSTRATED. By R. A. KR. BENNETT, B.A. This Work forms the Second Division of ‘The Aquarium Book.” Lonpon: L. UPCOTT GILL, 170, Stranp, W.C. FRESH-WATER AQUARIA. CHAPTER I. THE AQUARIUM. W things are more interesting and less troublesome than a well cared-for aquarium. It makes no litter to annoy the tidy housewife, and no noise to distract the student. Besides, if properly arranged, it is very orna- mental. The aquarium also is exceedingly useful to the naturalist in the prosecution of his studies; and by its help the botanist can conveniently observe aquatic plants as they pass through the various stages of their existence. Those who intend to keep an aquarium must remember that though few things are less troublesome, still it does require a little care, and that little care should be given regularly and daily. A few minutes at a time will suffice —just long enough to feed the fish, to see that there is no death and no decay, to notice that the light has not been so strong as to cause the conferve to grow too rapidly, and to take care that the representatives of the Animal Kingdom do not exceed the proper proportion according to the amount of weed provided. The reason for this is that the fish inspire the oxygen held in solution by the water, and expire carbonic- acid gas. The plants, by respiration, consume the carbonic- B 2 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA. acid gas supplied by the fish, using the carbon for the con- struction of their tissues and fibres, and liberating again the oxygen for the use of the animal life within the aquarium; or, to put it plainer, the fish breathe out carbonic-acid gas and breathe in oxygen. The snails, which should always be present in the aquarium, find their food in the confervoid growth and decaying vegetable matter. They thus not only remove that which otherwise would be injurious to the inmates of the water, but they, as also do the fish, convert a part of what they eat into food for the plants. The proof that this much-desired te result is attained is seen in the apparent health and happiness of the animals and the sparkling clear- ness of the water. But to arrange matters thus will require a little experience. The plants, however numerous they may be in the aqua- rium, will not alone supply sufficient oxygen. For the principal duty of the vegetation is, as it has been said, to decompose the carbonic- j acid gas expired by the animals, absorbing the carbon into their own substance and setting free the oxygen for the use of the fish; but the oxygen must be chiefly drawn from the atmosphere which comes in contact with the surface of the water. Therefore it will be seen that the shape of the aquarium is a very important matter; and that this is the case is proved by a simple experiment. If a wide-mouthed bottle be filled with water, and an equal quantity of water be poured into a shallow dish or pan about 2in. deep, and three or four minnows be placed in each vessel, it will be seen that while the fish in the pan remain apparently well, those in the bottle will, after having ascended to the surface of the water, die. The reason that the fish in the one case die and in the 8in. 16 in. Fig. 1. THE AQUARIUM. 3 other live, is because water is simply a vehicle for holding in solution the oxygen which is necessary to animal life. And the greater the surface of water exposed to the air, the more oxygen will it absorb in proportion to its bulk. An aquarium of the shape and size of Fig. 1, which would present to the air a surface of water of 32 square inches, would hardly supply the oxygen & in. necessary for the health of three a small fish; while one like Fig. 2, having a superficial measurement of 64 square inches, would hold comfortably six small fish; but one of the shape and size of Fig. 3, presenting a surface of 128 square inches, would supply rn sufficient oxygen for tweive fish. Fic. 2. And yet all three aquaria would contain exactly the same quantity of water, viz., 512 cubic inches. I have kept twenty-six small minnows for a week in an ordinary soup-plate, a little more than half-full of water, and then only one of them died. At the present time one pike (9in. long). twenty very small roach (about l}in. long), nine perch (from 24in. to 3in. long), and one large water newt {6 in. 8, Ain, Fig. 3. (Triton cristatus) are living in perfect health in an aquarium lin. by 133in., but which contains water only 2in. deep— sufficient to cover the dorsal fin of the biggest fish as he swims just clear of the bottom. And these fish live in this comparatively small quantity of water in apparently the “pest of health, not only because the water is very shallow in B2 4 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA. proportion to its superficies, but also because the act of their swimming agitates the surface of the water, thus helping to aérate the whole of it; and for the same reason the twenty- six minnows lived for a week, and would have done s0 longer, in an ordinary soup-plate half-full of water. Of course, an aquarium ought not to be so shallow that the water-plants will fail to grow properly. A tank may be of almost any depth, but it must have length and breadth in proportion. To sum up, in order that an aquarium may be a success, it is necessary that it should be of the right shape; that the repre- sentatives of the Animal Kingdom should not be in excess of the mini- mum amount of weed; and that a little care be taken daily to main- tain their balance. It is almost unneces- sary to say that if an aquarium is taken up as a toy, to be fussed over for a few days and then = to be neglected for Fic. 4. weeks, it will be any- thing but pleasing and instructive. The water under these circumstances will quickly become corrupt and offensive, many of the animals will die, those which are unfortunate enough to survive will be extremely miserable, and the owner and his friends will come to the conclusion that an aquarium is certainly not what I have described it to be—both pleasing and instructive. There are very many kinds of aquaria, ranging from the simple, flat earthenware pan, to the beautiful and expensive combination of plate-glass, slate, fountains, enamel, and gilding. All are more or less useful. The aquarium, of course, most suitable for the fish and the plants is that which most resembles a pond—the light only entering it” THE AQUARIUM. 5 from above. The great drawback to a tank of this kind is the difficulty of watching closely the movements and ways of its inhabitants, and besides, such a one cannot be said to be ornamental. The commonest aquarium, perhaps, is that often described as an “inverted propagating glass” (Fig. 4). This kind has its advantages and disadvantages. Its advantages are the facility with which the contents can be inspected, its non-leaking character, its cheapness, its portability, and its attractiveness. Its disadvantages are its transparency, which causes much discomfiture to the fish and too great a growth of conferve ; and its proneness to apparently distort its inhabitants as they swim round it. However, the transparency can be partly overcome by judicious shading, the method of which will be explained when “light” is spoken of, and the apparent distortion can be avoided by taking care to choose white and well-blown glasses. In buying an aquarium of this kind, that which is broadest and shallowest should certainly have the preference. Another receptacle for water and fish is the common glass globe (Fig. 5), which has nothing whatever to recommend it, except perhaps to those who delight to hang their Fig. 5. Fig. 6. unfortunate captives—suspended by a chain from the ceiling— in front of the window; and of course an aquarium which is 6 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA. to be placed in this position—the worst possible—must, on account of its weight, be small; besides, if full, the surface of water exposed to the air must be extremely limited. The ordinary oblong tank (Fig. 6), containing four glass sides, is both ornamental and useful. However, in order that Fic. 7. the fish may be happy and the vegetation kept within bounds, an arrangement of curtains and the like must be made, which will be explained in due course. This aquarium is made of iron and glass or zinc and glass. | i (= Fig. 8. A very useful and somewhat easily-made tank is shown at Fig. 7. It is constructed of glass, wood, and slate. The ends and bottom are of wood, the former being lined with thin window-glass, the latter with slate; and the sides are formed of plate-glass. THE AQUARIUM. 7 A more useful aquarium than any yet mentioned is one formed of slate and plate-glass only (Fig. 8). It can be made by an amateur without much difficulty. But perhaps the tank most suitable for its purpose is Fig. 9. One side only is of glass; the others can be made of wood lined with Fig. 9. glass, or of slate only. The former method is the easier and cheaper to construct, the latter the more serviceable. Explicit directions for making aquaria similar to those shown at Figs. 6, 7, 8, and 9, are given in Chapter IT. CHAPTER II. MAKING AQUARIA. appears more difficult to make an aquarium than it really is. Even a tank like Fig. 6, though it is less easy to construct than most of the aquaria mentioned in Chapter I., is not beyond the powers of the ordinary amateur mechanic. Of course it will require some little skill, care, and patience; but when it is properly made Fic. 10. IRON Buock. A, Side View; B, End View; C, Standing on its End. it will not only be useful as an aquarium, but also, if wished, it can, at some future time, be turned into either a fernery or a vivarium. The materials which will be required for its construction are MAKING AQUARIA. 9 zinc, solder, cement, and plate-glass. The tools necessary are an old tenon-saw, square, hammer, soldering-iron, and a pair of scissors made for cutting sheet metal; but besides these a few blocks must be prepared. The amateur can either make the blocks himself, or he can get them made at a trifling cost. I will describe them in the order in which they will be required. SZ Fig. 11. STEEL Bar. Fig. 10 shows an iron block, 6in. long, having a U-shaped groove down its centre. The groove is jin. wide and $in. deep. The holes at each end of the block are for the screws which fasten it firmly to the bench. It will not only be useful for the purpose for which it has been made, but at any time it will be serviceable as a small anvil for straightening nails and the like. A B Fic. 12, Woop BLock. A, Side View; B, End View. Fig. 11 represents a steel bar a little less than jin. in diameter, and a little longer than the aquarium is intended to be. Figs. 12 and 13 illustrate blocks made of some hard wood. That in Fig. 12 ought to be not less than Gin. long, and the groove in it should be at least lin. deep, and just broad enough to receive a double thickness of zinc. The latter has a groove exactly the = & A B Fig. 13. Woop Bock. A, Side View; B, End View. same size as that in the iron block (Fig. 10). Fig. 14 is made of hard wood, faced with two iron plates. The groove in this block must equal that of the iron block (Fig. 10), and the iron plates should be just far enough apart to receive a double thickness of zinc. Besides these blocks an ordinary mitre- 10 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA. block will be useful, and all of them are more or less necessary, not only for the preparation of the zinc framework of this particular aquarium, but also for other aquaria of a much easier make. The zinc should be moderately stout—that is, about No. 12 gauge. Having decided upon the dimensions of the tank now about to be made, cut four strips of zinc its exact length, four its Fic. 14. IRON-FACED BLOCK. A, Side View; B, End View; C, Face View. exact breadth, and four its exact height. Hach piece ought to be ‘hin. wide. Now take a strip of zinc, mark a line down its centre, and place it upon the iron block (Fig. 10), the line marked on the zinc being exactly over the middle of the groove and running lengthwise with it. Then take the steel bar (Fig. 11) by the handle in the left hand, hold the rod part of it exactly over the line marked on the zine (and which, of qe =A) OE ~ Os im. Fig. 15. Fig. 16, course, will be over the centre of the groove in the block), and, with the hammer in the right hand, drive the bar and the zinc home into the groove, and about 6in. of the strip of zinc will be bent into the shape of Fig. 15; bend the rest of the strip in this way, then press, by means of a pair of pincers (Fig. 16), the zinc tightly round the steel bar. When this has been done evenly and carefully along the whole length of the strip, put MAKING AQUARIA. 11 the flat part of the zinc into the narrow groove of the block Fig. 12, the bar not having been withdrawn. Take the block Fig. 13, place it over the tubing now formed in the zinc, and by striking it (the block) with a hammer rectify any inequality which may have appeared in the moulding. Separate the steel bar from the zinc and slide the latter, tubing downwards, into the iron-faced block (Fig. 14). Then with a chisel or other like tool open the flat portion of the zinc now facing upwards until it forms as nearly as possible a right angle (Fig. 17). When this has been done, withdraw the moulding from the block, and it should now have assumed the shape Fic. 17. of Fig. 18. If the edges be found to be not quite straight and true, they may easily be made so by hammering them on a side of the mitre-block. Bend all the other strips in the same way, and then take two of them the length of the proposed aquarium and two of its breadth, and mitre them together. The mitre cuts can readily be made by means of an old tenon-saw and an ordinary mitre-block. Having fixed them in position (Fig. 19), solder the corners neatly and firmly together, taking care to have the flat portions of the moulding perfectly square—that is one edge quite perpendicular and the other perfectly horizontal (Fig. 20). This will be for the bottom of the aquarium. Now take four other pieces of moulding, corre- sponding to the last four, and repeat exactly the same operation, and then the top of the tank will be formed. Next join the top and bottom together at the corners by means of the remaining four pieces of moulding. Fig. 22 will show the way in which these joints are to be made. Care, of course, should be taken that everything is square and true. The framework of the aquarium ‘will now be complete. It will be, if properly done, very strong. For a bottom, cut a piece of zinc or slate (the latter being far MOULDING. 12 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA. preferable) the length and breadth of the tank (inside measure- ments), place it on the ledge which is running round the lower part of the frame inside, and solder or cement it there. The glass for the sides should be iin. thick, and long enough to go quite across from end to end. But the glass for the ends ought > Fig. 19. Four PIECES OF ZINC MOULDING JOINED TOGETHER, thus forming either the Top or the Bottom of Frame for Aquarium. just to touch the glass in the sides, so helping to hold it in its place. Before putting the glass into the frame its bed ought to be painted with gold-size, and then covered with a thinnish coating of cement. Recipes for several kinds of cement are given at the end of this chapter. But, for an aquarium of this A Fic. 20. Posirion oF ZINC Fic. 21. A, Zinc Frame; MOULDING WHEN FRAMED. B, Glass; C, Cement, kind, a mixture of red and white lead is recommended. Now put the glass in, and press it gently into its place. Put the sides in first. Paint all the corners with gold-size, and then fill them in with cement to the depth of about qin. (Fig. 21). When the cement has been roughly put into position, the fixing of it MAKING AQUARIA. 13 may be firmly and neatly completed by gently rubbing it with the finger upon the end of which is some gold size. The tank should now be left to dry for some days; but during this time a stand and covering for it may be prepared. The stand (Fig. 23) can be made of oak, mahogany, or deal; Fic. 22. SHOWING THE JUNCTION OF THE ZINC MOULDING AT THE CORNERS. this last should be stained and varnished. It ought to bea trifle longer and broader than the aquarium. A groove must be cut in its surface, to receive the beading of the zinc which is at the bottom of the tank. The whole should stand quite firmly. Instead of the heavy-looking covering usually made for such an SO —— Fic. 23, STAND FOR ZINC-FRAMED AQUARIUM. aquarium as this, a flat piece of glass or of perforated zinc is to be preferred: the former is the better. At the end of a week the cement will have become somewhat hard; and if red and white lead have been used as the cement, 14 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA. it should now receive two coats of a varnish made of the best sealing-wax dissolved in spirits of wine. With this the zinc bottom ought also to be painted two or three times. Japan black may be used instead of the above varnish, but it will not be so satisfactory. If no varnish at all is used, the aquarium must be filled with water for three weeks or a month before it is stocked with plants and fish, the water being frequently changed during the time. The framework of the aquarium will be much improved in appearance if carefully painted with Brunswick Black or enamel of some suitable colour; if black is used. it may be “picked out” with gold or yellow. Fic. 24. METHOD OF DOVETAILING CROSSBARS OF AQUARIUM (FIG. 7) INTO UPPER PART OF ENDS. J have taken it for granted that the maker of such a tank as this has had some little practice in the use of the soldering-iron. But should the reader not know how to solder, and yet wish to attempt to make such an aquarium as this, he cannot do better than invest 6d. in an excellent little book entitled “ Working in Sheet Metal,”* which will give him all the information he will require. It is comparatively easy to make an aquarium to resemble Fig. 7. The ends and bottom are made of lin. well-seasoned deal, dovetailed together. They are grooved. The grooves run with the grain, and are $in. deep, about the same wide, and 3in. from each edge. The ends are held firmly in their places * “Working in Sheet Metal.” Instructions to amateurs in soldering, brazin: &c. By the author of ‘Turning for Amateurs.” L : * + Strand, W.C. 5 rs.” London: L. Upeott Gill, 170, MAKING AQUARIA. 15 by two bars at the top of the aquarium (Fig. 7, a). These bars are 2in. broad and lin. thick. They are dovetailed into their places (Fig, 24), and have grooves to correspond with those in the bottom and the ends. The ends are lined with window-glass and the bottom is lined with slate. The sides are formed of plate-glass Hin. thick; these must be put in their places before the crossbars at the top of the aquarium are fastened, the grooves into which they go having previously been half-filled with cement No. 2 (p. 24). Cover the bottom with a thin layer of the cement just mentioned, and press the slate firmly and gently into its place. Fix, in the same way, the glass linings for the ends. Fill up the corners with a cement of red and white lead to’ the depth of Zin., and when it is somewhat hard put over it a coating of the cement which was first used. This cement might be employed throughout; but then, for safety, it must be used a little more liberally than the other. The junction of the glass linings with the ends, and the dovetailing of the crossbars, can be hidden by four strips of wood, 23in. wide and Hin. thick, neatly mitred together, the corners of which framing may be decorated with small turned ornaments (as in Fig. 7). The woodwork will look well either stained, sized, and varnished, or French-polished. The aquarium should have six little feet lin. high, screwed to the bottom. Slate Zin. or lin. thick will be required to make a tank like Fig. 8. It may be- procured at a slate merchant’s at a cost of about 10d. a foot. The three pieces which will be wanted can most likely be obtained the size required. The bottom 30in. long and 16in. wide, and the ends each 16in. by 18in., will make an aquarium of good dimensions. At lin. from the extremity of each end—that is, across the broad part—cut a groove in. deep and lin. broad. This is supposing that slate lin. thick has been chosen; but if it is only #in. thick, then the groove must be proportionately smaller each way. The groove may be cut in the following manner: First mark with an awl the exact place and dimensions of the groove. Then get two straight-edged pieces of wood some inches longer than the breadth of the end; place them each side of the line 16 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA. which is to be cut, and nail them to the bench—they should be Just wide enough apart to admit a tenon-saw—and with the saw cut the line to the required depth, jin. Without some such preparation as this it would be difficult to cut the sides of the grooves with the necessary accuracy. When both lines have been sawn in this way, take a chisel and mallet and cut out the slate which lies between them. But before using the chisel take the precaution to put two or three folds of carpet, or the like, between the slate and the bench to prevent all jarring and the danger of a crack. These grooves are to receive the ends of the bottom. There is E suobher way of making the cuts for these grooves. It is this: Get a piece of hoop-iron, ; = about a foot long, and straighten it. Then for a handle procure 10in. of broomstick, more or less, saw it half through lengthwise, and hammer the hoop-iron into the groove. Mark with an awl the place on the slate where the cut is to be made—and deepen this mark a little by running the point of a three-cornered file a FIG ee eo nroka) SEATE few times carefully up and down. oe (FIG. 8), show- 7 i ing Grooves for, Glass Fill the slight groove thus made a Sass Pe eae with fine white sand, and moisten it with water by means of a wet brush. Now run to and fro in this sand and water the edge of the tool which has just been made. By continually doing this, always keeping plenty of sand and water under the edge of the iron, the cut will gradually become deep enough. When the cuts have been made, the portion of slate between them may be chiselled out as before directed. As a rule, the slate can be split cleanly out by striking the chisel against the edge and not on the top of the slate, and there is less danger of breakage. The latter method of making the cuts is the more satisfactory of the two—the former so quickly blunts the saw. Now along both sides of the bottom and of each end, cut, at a distance of jin. from the edge, grooves }in. deep and Sin. 2 ry MAKING AQUARIA. 17 broad. These grooves are to receive the plate-glass sides, tin. thick. After this bore four holes, fin. in diameter, right through each end. Two of these are to be 14in. from the edge and iin. below the groove which is to receive the end of the bottom, and two lin. from the top and just within the grooves cut for the glass (Fig. 25). The holes are for the bolts which run across from end to end to hold the aquarium together. Bore them with an ordinary brace, and a bit used for metal. The bolts should be made of brass wire; but iron will do. It is a wise precaution to have the thread for the nut a little longer than necessary, for it can easily be shortened when the bolts are in their places, and the long threading is a great convenience in the screwing-up. Before putting the aquarium together, place a little cement in all the grooves. Then raise the bottom on blocks of wood to such a height that it will be level with the grooves cut to receive it in the two ends. And when this has been done, put the ends, plate-glass, and bolts into position, and screw them all together, turning the nuts of the bolts with only the finger and thumb. Before the nuts are quite screwed home, press the glass gently downward, so that it is forced firmly into its place. Carefully finish filling up the grooves with cement, and the aquarium will be completed. If iron bolts have been used, paint them with Brunswick Black. An aquarium like Fig. 9 will perhaps be more suitable for its purpose than any yet described, but will not be so ornamental. It makes an excellent tank for marine specimens; and may be made either of wood, slate, and glass, or of slate and glass only. If made on the former plan, the directions given for the con- struction of an aquarium like Fig. 7 will suffice for the building of this, with the following exceptions: A wooden side lined with window-glass, or roofing-slate, will take the place of a plate- glass side. As the aquarium will be broader than Fig. 7, the grooves in the ends for the glass front must run across the grain, and the bottom must be made the required breadth by clamping and glueing on another piece of wood. The wood work ought to be dovetailed together; but if this cannot con- veniently be done, nailing with long French nails will do. The c 18: FRESH-WATER AQUARIA. front must be framed as wellas the top. A useful size for an aquarium of this description will be 24in. long, 20in. wide, and 10in. deep. If the tank is to be made of slate and plate-glass only, the directions given for making an aquarium like Fig. 8 will be enough, except that in the place of a glass side there will be a slate one, and for this the grooves, instead of being 4in. deep and Zin. broad, ought to be 4in. deep and Iltin. broad. This is a most useful Fic. 26. PORTABLE AQUARIUM. and durable aquarium. Fig. 26 represents a very easily and cheaply made aquarium. It is a small tank, chiefly useful for observing the habits of insects and the like. Being of little weight, it can conveniently be moved about when full of water. It is deeper and narrower in proportion than a aquarium in which fish are kept ought to be. The foundation is made of lin. well-seasoned wood (maho- gany answers the purpose excellently), Cut a piece 14in. long by lin. broad. At lin. from the edge, all round, make a groove jin. wide, and the same deep; bend four pieces of zinc moulding according to the Q instructions already given, , 10in.long. Boreahole jin. Fie. 27. BoTToM OF PORTABLE AQUARIUM, in diameter at each corner eee ne fk Gelaee: Balch eine of the grooving in such a way that the square part of the moulding when sunk in the wood will come flush with the outside of the groove; and when this has been done make a cutting with a keyhole-saw to receive the flat. portion of the zinc upright (Fig. 27). Drive gently with a MAKING AQUARIA, 19 mallet each piece of moulding until its end has come flush with the other side of the wood foundation; then by driving a long French nail, minus its head, into the side of the wood and through the flat part of the zinc, each upright can be made firm. Now cut two strips of zinc 12in. long, and two Qin. long, all lin. wide. Mitre them, then join together with solder. When this has been done, take what is made of the aquarium, turn it upside down, place each upright on a corner of this frame, and solder them carefully there. Next get a piece of roofing slate, and with an old saw cut it to fit as a lining for the bottom. The four sides may be of window-glass of a moderate thickness. Use red and white lead as the cement, and paint it, when dry, with two coats of sealing-wax varnish or Aspinall’s Bath Enamel. If this cement is not covered in some way, every aquarium in which it is used must be thoroughly soaked before it is stocked; indeed, the soaking of a new aquarium in which cement of any kind has been used should never be omitted. Fill the spaces which may have occurred through inaccurate work, between the outside of the glass and the groove in the wood foundation, with Portland cement or plaster of Paris, and the tank is complete. : If the uprights are not more than 6in. in height, they will need no support at the top. Instead of the groove cut in the wooden foundation, slips of wood may support the glass at the bottom; the slips will save trouble, but will not make’ the aquarium look so neat as the grooving would. Aquaria made in this way are easily and cheaply constructed, and are not likely to leak. An arrangement of an aquarium and fernery combined is interesting and ornamental (Fig. 28). This combination is fixed outside a window. The tank should be of slate and plate-glass, like Fig. 8, but it may be similar to either Fig. 7 or Fig. 9. I£ it be either of the first two shapes, then the. stand should be so arranged that there will be a place for ferns beyond the aquarium. The effect of seeing them through the water will be pleasing, and at the same time they will provide suitable shade for the fish. The framework to support and protect the aquarium and fernery may be as c 2 Hn ea A A Te me if — a Te i ie i wit enc = Mi it —- rl 7 | = a Mi ial HN i) cen i it eat Hl Hil FIG. 28. AQUARIUM AND FERNERY COMBINED. MAKING AQUARIA. 21 high as the window—or only half as high—but its breadth should somewhat exceed that of the window. The reason for this greater breadth is that the tank may be so long that its Fic. 29. Back OF AQUARIUM AND FERNERY COMBINED. ends will not be exposed to view, the aquarium thus ap- pearing to be larger than it really is. If the tank is made 22 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA. of slate, according to Fig. 8, only a piece of plate-glass will be seen as its front, no top bar being necessary, which would mar the effect. The whole combination may be supported by a strong wooden stand outside the window (Fig. 80); or if the room to which it is affixed is an upper one, iron brackets let into the wall must be used instead of the stand. The frame, back, and sides should be glazed with tinted cathedral glass, especially if the view from the window is unpleasing. One large sheet is used for the back (A, Fig. 29); but if it should not be convenient to use only one pane for this purpose, the necessary wood-work for more than one may be tastefully covered inside with cork, with here and there a fern, which may be planted in the following way: Get a small, round tin canister with a few holes punched in the bottom, and sew round it two pieces of sufficiently-curved cork, using thin copper wire for this purpose, and in this contrivance plant the fern. Ferns ‘in suitable baskets may be hung from.the roof of the frame, but care should be taken that they are not too heavy, as this roof should be so arranged as to open and shut at pleasure. No fern ought to be hung in such a way that the drip from it would fall inside the aquarium. If anything does hang over the tank, it should be a fern-basket and filter in one, which combina- tion is not difficult to make. A fountain playing in the aquarium will be a great im- provement, and can, according to circumstances, be more or less easily contrived. Directions for making fountains and the filter are given in another chapter. Fig. 30 represents a section of the fernery and aquarium combination. A, window-sill; B, aquarium; C and D, trays for ferns, running the whole length of the aquarium; E, one of the hanging-baskets; F, fountain; G, wooden support; H and I, legs to support aquarium and tray. The trays ought to have holes in their bottoms, to allow for drainage, which should be able to run freely through the floor of the frame- work into the yard or garden outside. Instead of the trays C and D for ferns, one tray, so arranged as to admit of MAKING AQUARIA. " 23 a sloping surface of mould (as shown by the dotted line) may be substituted. All the aquaria described in this chapter, with one ex- ee Fic. 30 SECTION OF AQUARIUM AND FERNERY COMBINED. ception, I have myself made at different times, and the one excepted was made by a friend; therefore it will be seen that 24 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA. their construction is not beyond the powers of an ordinary amateur mechanic. The following cements have been found useful in the con- struction of aquaria: 1. Red and white lead—the two being mixed together into a stiff paste. The bed for this cement ought to be painted with gold-size. : 2. One pint each of plaster of Paris, litharge, fine white sand, and one-third pint of finely-powdered resin. This (or in this proportion) should be kept in a well-stoppered bottle, and when wanted the necessary quantity should be made into a putty with boiled oil and driers. This is a very quick-drying cement. It becomes, if anything, too hard. 3. The same as No. 2, with the exception of the plaster of ‘Paris and the driers. 4, The best Portland cement. 5. One part pitch and one-fourth part gutta-percha, applied when warm. These should be melted together in an iron ladle over a gas-flame or lamp. This cement is especially useful for an aquarium made of wood. In buying an aquarium, care should be taken to choose one which is broad and shallow in proportion to its size. It ought, at the same time, to be neat in appearance and strongly made. The different aquaria suitable for insects only will be de- scribed in another chapter. CHAPTER III. THE CABINET AQUARIUM. IN arrangement called the “cabinet aquarium” is ex- ceedingly interesting and instructive. It consists of a kind of backless bookcase, upon the shelves of which are placed small aquaria containing such aquatic plants and animals as are unsuitable, owing to various reasons, for the general tank. These shelves should be strong, and so constructed that they will-stand quite firmly. They may be made of almost any kind of wood, and in either a plain or an ornamental manner, as the taste of the aquarium-keeper may dictate or his purse allow. They may also be constructed to stand upon the floor, or upon a table. Care should be taken, however, that the shelves are at different distances apart, the greatest space being between the first two shelves, counting from the bottom. Shelves thus arranged will hold vessels of various sizes. The most suitable position for the cabinet aquarium is about 6ft. from a window, and out of reach of the direct rays of the sun. Then, if the stand has been wisely built, the contents of the aquaria can be easily watched without any inconvenience. No shelf should be so low as to occasion stooping on the part of the aquarium-keeper, or so high as to necessitate his standing upon a chair or stool. If the stand is required to hold very many vessels, it should be long rather than too 26 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA. high or too low. A cabinet aquarium, if properly arranged and cared for, is rather an ornament in a room. It will impede hardly any light when placed at right angles to a window. None but those who have possessed some such arrangement as a cabinet aquarium can readily understand how much in- terest and instruction it is able to afford. Some change or other is always taking place in the various aquaria, and thus there is continually a fresh lesson to be learnt or a new wonder whereat to be astonished. As nearly all the little tanks can be made more or less self-supporting, a very small amount of trouble will be required in their management. If the shelves are made to stand upon the floor of the room, and not upon a table, a small cupboard or a drawer or two may be con- trived beneath the lowest shelf, which will be very convenient for holding siphons, nets, cans, and the like. An arrangement of a simpler kind than that just described can be made by placing a piece of strong board lengthwise across any large tank which has slate or wooden ends. Such a board will hold several small aquaria. If it is of a fair length, three small inverted propagating-glasses may be placed upon it at equal distances apart, the middle glass being a little larger than the other two, chiefly for the sake of appearance. The glasses will stand quite firmly if the knob of each is inserted through a hole made in the board. There may also be room for other and smaller aquaria between the glasses. Little oblong tanks might be used, and with advantage, instead of the propagating-glasses. The vessels of the cabinet aquarium may be either rectangular or round—the former shape, for several reasons, being the more suitable; but whether they are square or round, there should certainly be some uniformity among them. Propagating- glasses of various sizes can always be used in the cabinet aquarium by fixing them as just described. A great disad- advantage of these glasses is that they so much distort the objects which they contain; but if they are used it is wise to have a few common stands at hand for them, which will be convenient in case the glasses have occasionally to be THE CABINET AQUARIUM. 27 moved. The stands can be easily and cheaply made. For instance, a piece of wood about Gin. square, having a hole big enough to receive the knob of the glasses bored in the centre, and also having two strips of wood (lin. thick) nailed across two opposite ends, will be quite as firm as the ordinary turned stand; or a small and strong wooden box, with a hole cut in the middle of the lid, or if there be no lid, through the bottom, will answer the purpose very well. In the latter case, the box must be inverted, of course. Various cheap glass bottles or jars are useful for the cabinet aquarium. For example, the jam or fruit jars made NAANGSSKCC CTT TS WY at \ MY 7 yj HUY [LAY I}; ¢ FIG. 31. EASILY AND CHEAPLY-MADE INSECT AQUARIUM. by Messrs. G. Clark and Co., of Bordeaux, are of fairly clear glass, wide-mouthed, neckless, neatly shaped, and provided with lids, which, when perforated with small holes, make excellent “covers. Of course, there are other vessels equally suitable for the cabinet aquarium, and those of Messrs. Clark are only referred to in order that some idea may be given of what kind to use. The long clear glasses used by confectioners for the exhibition of sweetmeats in their windows can be utilised with advantage for such purposes as the cultivation of certain aquatic plants and some animals. There are other bottles, too, generally used also by confectioners for keeping their goods 28 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA. in, but not for showing them. These are made of coarser glass than those just mentioned, and they also possess the dis- advantage of having a short neck and a mouth of a much less diameter than the rest of the bottle. The neck and mouth, however, can be cut off by a simple method, which will be explained. There is, nevertheless, a great drawback to all bottles and the like for aquarium purposes, and this is that their depth is much too great in proportion to their width. Still, there are circumstances under which they are more useful than wider and shallower vessels. Rectangular aquaria are by far the best for the cabinet and other purposes. Small ones, such as that illustrated at Fig. 31, can be easily, cheaply, and quickly made, according to the following directions: For the bottom (E), procure a piece of well-seasoned board lin. in thickness of any size up to 16in. long and 12in wide. No tank which is intended for the cabinet aquarium should be broader than the shelf of the cabinet upon which it is to stand. Cut four strips of stout zinc lin. wide, and of any length up to Gin. long. Bend these four pieces of zinc lengthwise at right angles. This may be done by the help of a carpenter’s ordinary vice, or by hammering half of the zine over the square edge of a hard piece of board. A line should be made down the middle of the strips to guide the bending, which ought to be quite correct. Make at nearly the extremity of one end, by means of a small awl, two holes, one through each side of the zine moulding, for the wire as represented at D D. Before nailing a piece of the moulding to each corner of the board which is intended for the bottom of the aquarium, a small portion of the wood should’ be cut away so that the zinc-moulding may be let in until it is quite flush with the edge of the board. Cut a strip of zinc 1iin. wide and so long that it will go exactly round the edges of the board for the bottom (B B). Nail one piece of the zine moulding at each corner of the THE CABINET AQUARIUM. 29 board in the place cut for it (A A). See that it is quite upright. Use small French nails, and hammer them well into the zinc. One nail at each side of the moulding will be sufficient. - Nail the piece of zinc, which has been cut 1}in. wide, quite round the edge of the wood for the bottom. The zinc to the height of jin. should come above the board. The nails ought to be put through the centre of the zinc. If the tank is not more than 6in. long, three French nails in each side will be enough; one nail at each end, close to the edge of the uprights, and one in the middle. Window-glass should now ‘be cut to fit the frame just made, and put in its place (C C). The glass ought to just reach the holes in the zinc made for the wire. Draw four pieces of thin copper or brass wire tightly through the holes made for it, and fasten it neatly (D). Copper wire must be well stretched before it is used. The wire should then hold the glass sides in their places. Melt in a tin saucer over a lamp four parts pitch and one part gutta-percha. The pitch and gutta-percha must be well mixed before it is fit for use. It should boil for some little time and be stirred with a small iron spoon. Instead of the, pitch and gutta-percha the following cement may be used, viz. : One part pitch, one part resin, and a little boiled oil—this last in the proportion of a tablespoonful to $lb. pitch. This also must be boiled and well mixed together. Take what is already made of the aquarium and hold it in the left hand. In the right hand take a spoonful of the boiling cement and allow it to cool a little for a moment or two, or it will crack the glass. Then put the spoonful of cement into one corner of the aquarium, and having returned the spoon to the saucer, with both hands tilt the aquarium carefully, so that the cement will run just at the junction of two pieces of glass, up to the top of the aquarium and then down again. Continue to do this until the cement ceases to flow. If this be well done, the cement will not be seen beyond the edges of the moulding. Treat all the corners in the same way, but do not begin a second corner until the 30 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA. first is quite firm. This cement sets very quickly. When all the corners have been cemented, with the spoon pour sufficient of the mixture on the bottom to cover it, and then the aquarium, after standing an hour, will be ready for use. After a little practice, several aquaria, such as the one just described, can be made ina morning. If carefully constructed, they look very neat, and will not leak, unless perhaps when placed for a long time within reach of the rays of a very hot sun—a position which is not fit for any aquarium. Even under these circumstances probably the tank would not leak at all, but the pitch would begin to melt. The zinc-work of these small cabinet aquaria may be painted with Brunswick Black or with Aspinall’s Enamel. Instead of the pitch-cement, Fig. 32. CHEAPLY-MADE ALL-GLASS AQUARIUM FOR INSECTS. mixed red and white lead can be substituted, and after it is quite dry covered with Aspinall’s Bath Enamel. When the red and white lead are used the aquarium must be well soaked before it is stocked. Tanks made according to the above directions should not be of greater dimensions than 16in. long, 12in. wide, and 5in. deep. Those of the largest size should be placed on the bottom shelf of the cabinet. In fact, these tanks ought to be constructed according to the shelves, and should stand at least 2in. apart when placed in position, in order that they may be easily moved. Fig. 32 represents another useful and easily-made little tank which is very suitable for the cabinet aquarium. This small THE CABINET AQUARIUM. 31 vessel is made entirely of glass, of which there are five pieces, fastened together with marine glue. The two sides and the ends are stuck to the bottom at the distance of about tin. from its edge all round. The former are 4in. shorter than the bottom, and the latter are nearly if not quite as broad. The sides are put in their places first, and when they are firm the ends are glued to the extremities of the sides. The gluing is done by holding a piece of glue about the size of a pea, attached to the point of an awl, in the flame of a candle until it begins to burn and melt, when it should be gently drawn along a mark which has been made on the glass until the glue at the end of the awl is used. The glue should be placed on the glass quite evenly to the depth of about }in., and the same in breadth. When a line of glue is completed, the edge of the piece of glass which is to be fastened by it should be gently heated, and then pressed carefully into the glue. In a minute or two the glass will be quite firm. The gluing should be executed neatly, for any trimming that is required to be done after the aquarium has been put together, tends to weaken it. As soon as the little tank is finished, it may be filled with water, and if the work has been done with care there will be no leaking. Should the vessel, however, be not quite watertight, it may be easily made so by an additional piece of glue, or by running a little of the pitch-cement previously recommended over the weak spot, and, to make matters safer, over every joint. Such an aquarium as the one just described is very usefal for small aquatic animals; but it should not be con- structed of greater dimensions than the following, viz., Qin. long, 2in. wide, and 2in. deep. I have made tanks of this kind as large as Ift. long, 6in. deep, and 6in. wide; but I find that they are liable to give a little when the weather or the room in which they are placed is too hot. Though the joints open sometimes under these circumstances as much as 3in., the glue and pitch together become so elastic that the water is rarely allowed to escape. The large bottles, which have been already referred to as suitable for the cabinet aquarium, can be cut in half by satu- rating a piece of thick worsted in paraffin, and tying it evenly 32 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA. round the bottle at the proper place and then setting it on fire. As the worsted burns, the glass will crack in the direction of the flame. The rough edges of the shortened bottles may be rubbed off by using a piece of the stone with which scythes are sharpened. Among other things, clear, thin, plain glass tumblers are very convenient vessels for the upper shelves of the cabinet aquarium; but the habits and wants of the various animals and plants should be considered before they are placed in any of the many different articles which may be converted into aquaria. Every tank of the cabinet aquarium ought to be provided with a well-fitting glass cover, for the purpose not only of preventing the escape of its inmates, but also of excluding the dust and of lessening, as far as possible, evaporation; and it is wise to gum a strip of white paper along the bottom of the front of each aquarium, in order that a record may be kept of the times when and the places where its contents were obtained, and any other circumstance of interest in connection with them. When the stand of the cabinet aquarium is completed, and all its shelves are judiciously filled with vessels, some clean and fine river-sand or well-washed bird-sand should be pre- pared for the purpose of covering the bottoms of the different aquaria. But those tanks which are intended to contain interesting aquatic plants rather than animals ought to be especially prepared for the reception of such subjects by the placing of mud, loam, or anything else they may require, beneath a layer of the gravel. The aquaria, however, which are to receive various animals will need for the covering of thetr bottoms only fine gravel or sand, for in such foundations the very useful American weed (Anacharis alsinastrum) will readily grow, and provide all that is required of vegetation in the tank. The most convenient way of planting the Anacharis in the small vessels of the cabinet aquarium is to attach to each spray a small piece of lead and drop it in the water. The spray thus weighted will sink rapidly to the bottom of the vessel, and assume there its proper position. By the help of a penholder or a small stick the lead may be THE CABINET AQUARIUM. 33 easily pushed beneath the gravel, and thus hidden from sight. The Anacharis, or any other suitable weed thus treated, may be easily placed in or removed from any aquarium without either trouble or disturbance. When this method of planting is adopted, it is advisable to fill the vessel with water before the introduction of the weed. As a rule, the different tanks of the cabinet aquarium should be supplied with water and stocked with weed before the animals which they are to contain are bought or sought for. CHAPTER IV. COLLECTING EQUIPMENT. course, it adds greatly to the interest of cabinet or other aquaria if the various specimens can be ob- tained personally from their native waters. Fish generally should be carried from place to place in well-con- structed bait-cans; and it is wise, if possible, for this purpose to procure a can which has a: mechanical contrivance for aérating the water within it. In such a can, fish may be trans- ported great distances without injury. If, however, a can without such a contrivance is used, it should be so made that the water does not readily splash out of it, and the splashing thus confined within the can goes a long way towards aérating the water and supplying the fish with the necessary oxygen. The can ought not to be more than three- quarters full of water. Of the many very useful bait-cans which have been from time to time invented, two may be referred to here, viz., one recommended by the late Mr. Frank Buckland in his “Natural History of British Fishes,” and the other patented by Mr. Basil Field, and manu- factured by Mr. H. Bowcombe, 2, Victoria-road, Holloway. The former is a German invention, and though Mr. Buckland, while speaking highly of this can, says that he engaged a tinman to construct it, he omits to mention that workman’s name and address. The latter can is shown in Fig. 33. The perforated zine interior (D) is lifted whenever a fish is COLLECTING EQUIPMENT. 35 required, and there is obviously no occasion to wet the hands or warm the water by groping in it for the fish. In the handle (A) is a small pair of bellows, worked by merely pressing the knob B. The air passes down the small tube (C), and bubbles up at the bottom of the can. When at the riverside, the perforated interior can be sunk in the water. The ordinary pike-fisher’s double live-bait kettle, which can be got at any tackle-maker’s, is practically the same thing minus the aérating bellows. Fic. 33. PATENT AERATING BalT-CAN, If the aquarium-keeper is unwilling to go to the expense of buying a bait-can, he may easily make one for himself out of an ordinary oblong tin coffee-canister. This is done by solder- ing the lid of the canister in its place, cutting a new opening in the side of the tin, and covering this opening with a small flap-lid. A handle of strong and rather thick wire is fastened on each side of the aperture by soldering a strip of tin over each end of the wire handle after about lin. of it has been bent at right angles. The lid is affixed by bending about lin. of its end over a piece of straight wire cut to such a length D2 36 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA. that it projects a short distance on either side of the lid. When the lid has been put into its place, it is fastened there by soldering a strip of tin over both extremities of the projecting wire. After this can has been painted with Brunswick Black or with enamel, very few would be able to see that it was originally a coffee-canister. I have found such a con- trivance as this very convenient, and have carried fish in it a distance of more than 200 miles by rail. When the aquarium-keeper intends, during his hunting expeditions for specimens for his aquaria, to include fish among his other captives, it is a good plan for him to set out pro- vided with a can in which he has placed one or two short, wide-mouthed bottles. He will thus be able to sort his prizes in such a way as will be conducive both to their safety and their comfort. He ought, however, to prevent all movement of the bottles within the can by cutting a piece of tin, zinc, or wood in such a way that it will fit inside the can and go over the mouths of the bottles. If the holes, which are cut in whatever material is chosen, fit the tops of the bottles exactly, the latter cannot move sufficiently to hurt the fish or anything else in the can. Theclear glass jars which have a lip but no neck, and which are sold containing jam, are excellent vessels for placing within the bait-can, and also upon the shelves of the cabinet aquarium. Should it not be the intention to catch fish, however, the can ought to be left behind, and several wide- mouthed bottles taken in its place. These may be very conveniently carried by placing, say, three of them side by side in a narrow and light wooden box or wicker basket made for the purpose. Good bottles for this purpose are those made by Messrs. Clark. They are of a portable size, and their tin covers, which screw on, are very useful for preventing both the splashing of the water into the basket or box, and the escape of the inmates. If the receptacle for the bottles is a little deeper than they are, there will be room above them for forceps, brush, macintosh, magnifying-glass, and any other small appliance which the aquarium-keeper may require. to COLLECTING EQUIPMENT. 37 Fig. 34 represents a very useful net for obtaining aquarium specimens. The frame is of strong iron, which is screwed into a stout wooden handle of about 6ft. in length. The material for the net part may be of what is called mosquito- net, or of that light canvas which is sold for straining milk. The net should not be too deep, and be of the shape represented in the engraving. It ought to be—at any rate, the fore part of it—attached to the iron frame by means of small rings, which prevent to a great extent the wearing away of the net by rubbing against the mud, stones, and bottom of the water. Such a net as this, which should be about 3ft. in cir- cumference, with care will last for a long time. Another, a much smaller net in every way, but made upon the same plan, will be found very convenient in addition to the one just described. Besides the nets, there should be taken on the hunting expedition, a long piece of strong cord, at the end of which is fastened a kind of hook, made somewhat after the fashion of a tiny anchor. This will be useful for pulling up from the bottoms of ponds, &., masses of aquatic plants, among the dripping and muddy tangles of which will be found many very interesting creatures. A very simple arrangement may be made for obtaining almost any number of Entomostraca and other small aquatic animals. It consists of a wide-mouthed bottle, a small metal funnel, and a small indiarubber or leaden tube. The broad end of the funnel is covered with a piece of very fine muslin—so fine that it will hardly allow anything but the water itself to pass through it—and the narrow part of the funnel is attached to one end of the tube. As long as the funnel will go into the bottle, the broader Fic. 34. COLLECTING-NET. 38 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA. it is the better. The funnel should occupy the same position in the bottle as represented in the illustration (Fig. 35). The bottle ought to have a piece of strong string tied round its neck, in order that it may be easily carried—even while water is running through the siphon—from place to place. Another bottle should be fastened to the end of a strong walking- or other stick, so that water may be taken from the pond, ditch, or stream, both near the edge and some distance from it, and poured into the bottle possessing the siphon. As soon as the latter is full of water, which is supposed to contain the minute animals required, the siphon is made to run, and by constant additions of water is allowed to continue doing so until sufficient captives are taken. When the muslin gets choked—as it occasionally will do—with mud and the like, it may be cleared by gently striking it once or twice against the sur- Fic. 35. BOTTLE AND SIPHON. face of the water within the bottle. This operation will necessitate, of course, the re-starting of the siphon. As the Entomostraca are attracted to the surface of the water by the shining of the sun, a fine rather than a dull day should be , chosen for catching them. Besides the cans, bottles, and nets, the collector of specimens for the aquarium will find the following articles very useful during his hunting expeditions: (1) A pair of forceps, (2) a small brush of camel’s-hair, (3) a piece of macintosh, (4) magni- fying-glass, (5) wading boots, (6) wire, string, and pocket- knife. ; The forceps are convenient for quickly and gently picking certain animals off the weeds, or out of the mud brought to the banks with the weeds, and placing them into the receptacles prepared for them. Fig. 36 represents two kinds of forceps. The steel forceps may be obtained, for a small sum of money, of COLLECTING EQUIPMENT. 39 a surgical instrument maker. The wooden forceps can be easily made at home by nailing two slender pieces of hard and elastic wood to a small centre block. If the latter pair of forceps are 1ft. long, they may be used also for bringing up objects from the bottom of the smaller aquaria. The camel’s-hair brush is convenient for removing the more delicate animals from the weeds or net, and placing them in the bottles. The piece of macintosh is useful for three different purposes : for the collector to kneel on while he is examining the weeds or mud which he has taken from the water; for receiving the various animals which fall from those aquatic plants which are shaken over it; and for wrapping up the weeds which are —eee —— SD " Fic. 36. WOODEN AND STEEL: FORCEPS. intended to be carried away. It should not be much less than lyd. square. The magnifying-glass is often of great help in making a close and careful examination of both plants and animals, and in deciding what are to be left behind and what taken home. Of course, it goes without saying that a pair of strong boots are almost a sine qud non during the expeditions in search of aquarium specimens; but those boots in which the collector can wade in the water up to his knees, are not only a great convenience, but are also often the means (by reason of the greater range which they give) of making interesting captures. A piece of string, some thin wire, and a pocket-knife, should never be left behind, for one or other of them is almost sure to be required for something during the day. 40 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA. If the aquarium-keeper be prudent, he will take care not to overburden himself with bottles and nets, for nothing is so likely to mar the pleasure of a hunting expedition as a long walk home, after hard work, with more than one can con- veniently carry. I have more than once heard it said that one of the greatest charms of English sport is that one never knows for certain what is going to “get up.” This is, in a way, true of hunting for aquarium specimens, for the collector is always wondering what he will fish up next; and after he has begun to use his nets in some well-stocked piece of water, he hardly knows when to leave off, or when he has obtained enough prizes. At least, such has generally been my own experience. There are often in ponds, ditches, and streams, what may be called traps. These traps consist of old boots, old hats, pieces of rag, and half-sunk bonnet-boxes or newspapers; and if the collector will take the trouble to examine such things, he will frequently be well rewarded for his pains, for in them or under them a good collection of many and various aquatic animals are often to be found. It is, indeed, a good plan to purposely set these useful traps. I can easily remember that while I was a small boy I often used to look forward to the time when I should be able to possess one very large aquarium in which I could place all the different aquatic animals I might procure; but I have long since learnt by experience that it is impossible for the members of such an interesting (to me) collection to live peaceably together for any length of time—no, not even for one single night. It is wise, therefore, for the collector to return home from his hunting expedition before it be too late, or before he be too tired to put his prizes into their respective dwelling-places. Should he, however, be indisposed or unable at once to finally assort his captives, he ought to transfer into shallow and well- covered vessels those creatures which he cannot trust, either for their own welfare or for the welfare of their comrades, to remain in the collecting-bottles. The various animals and plants can then be conveniently arranged on the following day. There is a little net which may be cheaply and easily made, COLLECTING EQUIPMENT. 41 and which I have found very useful for transferring aquatic specimens from vessel to vessel. The net is constructed out of one of the small wire baskets which are sold for the purpose of hanging on to the ends of teapot-spouts, in order that they may catch those tea-leaves which otherwise would fall into the cups. The wire fastening which is made to go down the spout of the teapot is taken off the basket, and a straight piece of rather thin wire, about 16in. or 18in. long, is wound (at its middle) once round the basket, just below the rim, in such a way that the two ends when twisted together form a handle of nearly 1ft.in length. The teapot-spout basket may be bought at almost every ironmonger’s for 1d. or 13d. There is hardly any part of the year which is altogether unsuitable for excursions in search of aquatic animals or plants. I have had successful days even when I have been obliged to break the thin ice which was covering the surface of the water, However, the summer-time is the best season of all for these expeditions. CHAPTER V. MANAGEMENT OF THE AQUARIUM. N aquarium in the formation of which cement of any kind has been used, should stand filled with water for ten days or a fortnight,'and the water be changed several times during that period, before it is stocked. The cement will thus have an opportunity of giving off anything which would be likely to injure the inhabitants of the tank. When the aquarium has been sufficiently seasoned in this way, empty it, clean it, and put it into its permanent position, taking care that it stands quite firm and is perfectly level in every direction. After this has been satisfactorily arranged, some sand should be taken from a river or running stream; but if it cannot conveniently be procured from there, ordinary bird- sand will do very well when it has been prepared in the following manner: By means of a fine-meshed sieve all the larger stones should be separated from the rest of the sand. As the sand is riddled it should fall into a bucket of water. When a sufficient quantity of sand has been obtained in this way, it ought to be energetically stirred for several minutes with a stick, and then the muddy water poured off. The pail should now be filled with boiling water, in which the sand ought to be thoroughly washed, and then the water emptied away. When this operation has been repeated two or three times, the sand will be ready for the aquarium. River-sand should also undergo the same careful washing. This cleansing of MANAGEMENT OF THE AQUARIUM. 43 the sand ought never to be neglected, for without it some decaying matter, either vegetable or animal, will certainly be present, and in time corrupt the water of the tank, and so cause injury to its inmates. This clean sand should now be placed in the aquarium to a depth of from 2in. to 4in., according to the size of the tank and the character of the plants which are to be introduced. But if the aquarium is bell-shaped, all its lower portion may with advantage be filled with sand until it reaches that part of the vessel where the sides begin to be vertical. This will both lessen the depth of water and increase the rooting-space for vegetation. Over the sand a layer of some fine gravel should be put, which also must be washed perfectly clean. This gravel may be obtained from a river or stream, but that which has been sifted from the bird-sand will do very well. The gravel is chiefly for the purpose of preventing fish and their comrades from turning up the sand and sediment, and thus interfering with the clearness of the water. Charcoal is sometimes buried in the sand—for it has the power to some extent of counteracting putrefaction and preventing unpleasant smells. Its presence, however, in the aquarium has its draw- backs: if allowed to float in the water, it will look unsightly; and if sunk in the sand, there will be a difficulty in renewing it when its efficiency as a deodoriser has gone. A properly- stocked aquarium needs no charcoal. ‘Among the occupants of an aquarium there will be some which. will not care to remain in the water always; and for their accommodation it will be advisable to erect a kind of rockwork, the top of which ought to rise above the surface of the water. This rockwork will also provide shade for the fish and the other animals which delight in retirement. It can be bought all ready for the aquarium; but often that which is offered for sale is gaudily coloured, or is in other respects unsuitable. Sometimes it will be found made in the shape of ruins of various kinds. Of course such rockwork is altogether out of place in a well- arranged tank, for no one with any taste at all would care to see a fish, for instance, swimming through the window of a house, or a triton wriggling through the loophole of a castle. 44 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA. Suitable rockwork can easily be constructed. It should be of small dimensions rather than the reverse, as long as it will answer its purpose; for much rockwork takes up valuable space, and does not look well in an aquarium. Care ought to be taken to so arrange it that, while it will afford the necessary shade to the occupants of the tank, it will not at the same time provide them with retreats into which they can retire altogether from their owner’s sight; for, if the animals are able to completely hide themselves, it is very possible that, should they die, their deaths will be undiscovered until the corrupting bodies have done irreparable damage to the whole aquarium. Rockwork may be made of pumice-stone, coke, melted glass, mica-schist, or other material of a like kind. If the desired shape and size cannot be found in one single piece, two or three pieces may be joined together by means of Portland cement, always remembering that this cement, after it has well set, should be soaked for some days in water before it is placed in its permanent position in the aquarium. Pieces of pumice-stone or coke may be united by means of wooden rivets, each rivet running into the adjoining parts a couple of inches, the holes for which can easily: be made with an ordinary awl. Before coke is put in the tank it should be dipped into some liquid Portland cement of about the consistency of ordinary whitewash, keeping the mixture well stirred during the process. An aquarium like Fig. 9 may have rockwork so arranged as to represent a cave, out of which and into which the fish and other animals seem continually to go and come. To effect this arrangement it will be necessary to get a piece of looking- glass about 5in. square, more or less according to the size of the tank. Paint the back of this two or three times with sealing-wax varnish, japan ‘black, or anything else which will protect it from the action of the water; then, when this is dry, place the aquarium with the glass front upwards, and cover its back, inside, with cement No.2. Now take the looking-glass and fix it firmly in the centre of the back of the tank, and around it arrange mica-schist in such a way that the glass will represent the mouth of a cave. All the back should be covered with the stone. This plan, however, is more appropriate for MANAGEMENT OF THE AQUARIUM. 45 a marine than for a fresh-water aquarium. Instead of rockwork, a small island may be constructed for the newts; and upon the island a fern or some semi-aquatic plant can be grown. All plants should be put in their places before the aquarium is filled with water. Those which do not require much rooting- space may be planted in the sand and gravel at the bottom of the tank; but those which need greater depth can be set in small flower-pots. These pots can either be hidden by means of a careful arrangement of rockwork, or they themselves may be made to resemble it by covering their sides with small pieces of coke, fastened into position with Portland cement. The whole should be then dipped as before described. There is one great advantage in putting plants into pots, inasmuch that, should occasion require, the aquarium can be emptied without materially interfering with their growth. But wherever plants are placed, whether in pots or at the bottom of the tank, the sand above their roots should be covered with plenty of gravel, as it tends to make the setting firm and permanent. The different aquatic plants suitable for freshwater aquaria will be described in another chapter. In an aquarium that is properly arranged and cared for, the water should seldom or never need changing. Its character, therefore, is a matter of much importance. The best water for the purpose is that from a river; next, that from a large and very clear pond; next, very clean rain-water; next, that from the “tap”; and last of all, and to be avoided if possible, hard water from the well, When the aquarium has been made quite clean, its glass has been well polished, the sand and the gravel, in the proper proportion, at its bottom have been perfectly washed, the plants have been put in their places, and the rockwork has been placed in position, then—and not till then— should the water be introduced. There is really only one satisfactory way, so far as I know, of filling an aquarium with water, and that is by means of a very slender siphon. A siphon of large diameter is worse than useless for this purpose; but should the proper-sized siphon not be conveniently at hand, the water may be intro- duced in one of the following ways: 46 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA. 1. Pour it very slowly and carefully, by means of a slender- spouted can, against the sides of the tank. 2. Place a jug in the centre of the aquarium, taking care that it does not stand on any plant, and pour the water gently into it until the tank is full; then remove the pitcher without emptying it. 3. Put the aquarium, if not too large, under a “supply” tap, and regulate the latter so that it allows the water to drip slowly upon a sponge placed on the gravel of the former. The sponge, while being taken out, should not be squeezed. 4, Fill the tank by the help of a watering-can which has a very fine rose. Fic. 37. CORRECT METHOD OF FILLING AN AQUARIUM. But however carefully the water is introduced into the aquarium in any one of the above four ways, it will be found not to be perfectly clear. A small siphon only will attain that much-desired end. If one siphon does not work quickly enough, two or three may be used at the same time. A slender india-rubber tube of the necessary length, not thicker than the stem of an ordinary clay pipe, will make the siphon. The smaller the tubing in its diameter, the more satisfactorily wil] it do its work (Fig. 37). The lower end of the siphon should rest on the gravel of the aquarium or upon the rockwork. MANAGEMENT OF THE AQUARIUM. 47 When the aquarium has been properly filled in the way just described, it is a good plan, if patience will allow, to postpone the introduction of any animals for at least ten days or a fortnight—the longer the better. During this time the plants ought to commence to grow and give off oxygen. At first only a few occupants should be introduced—say, a newt, three or four small fish, and a few snails—and if these do well, one or two more may be added, and so on. When the plants are fairly established, the aquarium will support much more life than when they are only just beginning to grow. If the fish swim near the surface of the water tails downwards and mouths upwards, there are too many in the tank, and unless some are speedily removed, many will die. There should always be too few inmates in an aquarium rather than too many; but if the tank is properly arranged, it is. really sur- prising how much animal life it will support. For instance, I have at the time of writing in a bell-glass aquarium, 19in. in diameter, one gold-fish, one silver-fish, one carp, about a dozen snails (Planorbis corneus), and at the least forty small minnows (Cyprinus phoxinus). All these fish are seemingly in perfect health, and have been so for about ten months. The plants in this aquarium are Vallisneria spiralis and the Cape Fragrant Water Lily (Aponogeton distachyon). The water of an aquarium that is properly balanced and cared for, should never require changing, as a rule; but circumstances do occasionally arise in which it is necessary to empty the tank. For instance, the water may have become corrupted by an un- discovered dead body; the plants may need renewing, or the rockwork re-arranging; perhaps the aquarium has sprung a leak, or it is necessary to remove it to some other position. Any one of these circumstances would require the emptying away of the water. This can easily be done by means of a piece of india-rubber tubing, of about 3in. in diameter, used as a siphon (Fig. 38.) Before the commencement of the withdrawal of the water, as many of the fish and other inhabitants of the aquarium as possible should be transferred elsewhere. How- ever, it is not probable that all will be caught, for some will hide themselves in the weeds or under the rockwork; and to 48 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA. prevent their being sucked up, the end of the siphon which is to go in the aquarium should be covered with a piece of mosquito net or similar material. The position of an aquarium is an important matter, for very much depends upon the regulation of the light. Light is necessary to the growth of the plants, and to the production of oxygen. But too much light will encourage the development of the freshwater Alge commonly called Conferva. This con- Fic. 38. METHOD OF EMPTYING AN AQUARIUM. ferva is a vegetable growth which appears upon the inside of the glass of the aquarium, depriving it of its transparency. It grows also upon the plants, interfering with their welfare, and it will quickly spread, if unchecked, throughout the water, making it thick, green, and unsightly. Care is there- fore necessary to guard against both too much, and too little light. The latter is much to be preferred to the former. The rays of the sun should never fall directly upon an aquarium, MANAGEMENT OF THE AQUARIUM. 49 for, if they do, not only will the growth of the conferva be encouraged, but the temperature of the water will quickly rise too high. The higher the temperature of the water, the fewer animals will it be able to contain; besides which, water in this condition very readily becomes impure. The average temperature of an aquarium ought to be about 50deg., and, if possible, it should never be allowed to vary more than 10deg. either way. It may be reduced by covering the tank with a woollen cloth, the lower end of which is standing in some '"-water. As a rule, aquaria are placed near a window—a position con- ducive to the growth of the plants, but not to the happiness of the fish. Indeed, it is positively cruel to put fish in an all- glass aquarium and allow the sun to shine upon it during the hottest part of the day. Since an aquarium, however, will most likely be put close to a window, let it be one facing the north if possible. An eastern aspect is not at all unsuitable, but it will be advisable to cover the tank at night, so that it will not get the early morning sun. There are many ways of shading aquaria so that they shall not be unduly influenced by light and sun. If the aquarium is round, a sheet of green paper or a piece of American cloth, hung by means of small wire hooks to the edge of the glass, will answer the purpose. This can easily be removed for the inspection of the contents of the aquarium. Of course, such a screen cannot be called ornamental, but it is effective. Flowers or ferns placed between the aquarium and the window will supply not a little shade. If the tank is rectangular, and all- four sides made of glass, the same kind of shading will do, or cardboard may be cut to exactly fit three of the sides, instead, A little protection from too much light and sun may be obtained by having three of the sides made of ground-glass, or by covering these sides (externally, of course), with whitening dabbed on with a sponge, in imitation of ground-glass; or the conferves may be allowed to grow upon the three sides, and the fourth kept clear by using, when necessary, a piece of flannel tied to the end of a short cane. A good piece of looking-glass, cut the exact length and depth of the aquarium, and placed E 50 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA. behind it, will give both shade and effect. The back of the mirror must, in some way or other, be protected from the action of the sun. It has been already mentioned that the water of an aquarium should obtain the necessary oxygen, not only directly from the atmosphere above it, but also from the vegetation growing within it; but there are circumstances under which artificial means of aération should be resorted to. For instance, the tank may be overstocked with fish, and their owner, unwisely, be reluctant to part with any of them; or the temperature of the water, from some cause or other, may suddenly have risen too high. I think, therefore, that a short description of some of the instruments by which the water of an aquarium may be artificially aérated, will not be out of place here. A fountain is very useful for this purpose, and is also, if properly arranged, ornamental. Fig. 39 represents one which may be easily and inexpensively constructed. A is. a tank, made of wood, slate, or zinc; but if- made of the last-named material, its interior should be protected from the action of the water by tar-paint, or something of the like kind. This tank has a spout and a tap at the bottom of one end. It is placed upon the top of a bookcase or some other convenient elevation, and should be hidden there if possible. B is a deal table, over which there is a cover reaching down to the floor of the room. C is an easily-lifted can, capable of holding about three gallons of water. D is a leaden or indiarubber tube, joined at the upper end to the spout of the tank A, and at the lower to E, which is a leaden pipe running under the table and through its centre, and through that of the bottom of the aquarium. The hole in the tank to receive E should be rather larger than the pipe. When the pipe has been inserted into the hole, it can be fastened in its place by means of little wooden wedges, and all the interstices left between the wedges, the pipe, and the bottom of the tank, should be tightly filled up with red and white lead. F is a leaden waste-pipe, the lower end of which runs just through the table in order that it may be inserted into the indiarubber tubing (H), which will connect it with the can (C). F is fixed MANAGEMENT OF THE AQUARIUM. 51 in the bottom of the aquarium in the same way as E has been; its length within the tank will of course regulate the ii yet it Fic. 39. AQUARIUM CONTAINING AN EASILY-ARRANGED FOUNTAIN. height of the water there. If the aquarium is made of slate, there may be an overflow-pipe at G (instead of F), fixed in E2 52 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA. the side of the tank as high as the water is intended to rise. Should there be an objection to cut the table and its cover, the longer part of the pipe (E) can be fastened by means of brackets to the bottom of the aquarium instead of the inside of the top of the table; and the tubing (H) which is affixed to F may run round the farther edge of the table, and so into the can (C) beneath it. H should be long enough to reach the bottom of the can (C), and so the noise of trickling water will be prevented. The tubing (D) might be brought quite down to the floor, and thence up under the table to its con- nection with E, whether the latter is fastened to the bottom of the aquarium or not. However, there should be an endeavour to hide from sight the tank, the tubing, and the overflow-can.’ There are various ways of forming the jet (I). The easiest, perhaps, is to cut the end of the pipe off square with a pair of cutting pincers (this will press the edges of the pipe closely together); then, with a point of a pin, make the hole or holes required. The object is to procure the flowing upward of the least amount of water with the greatest effect. No more water should be placed in the tank (A) than the can (C) is able to hold, or some time or other there is certain to be a flood in the room. The top of the overflow-pipe (F) should be pro- tected with a little cap made of finely-perforated zinc; this will prevent insects and pieces of weed being sucked down, and so causing death and stoppage. The pipes within the aquarium should be hidden by well- arranged rockwork. A good way to do this is to get a piece of slate about 3in. or 4in. wide, and long enough, when standing on the bottom of the tank touching the front glass, to reach just above the jet (I). It should rest against the overflow-pipe and not on the fountain, or it will interfere with the upward flow of the water; and for this purpose the former might be bent a little to the front. Care should: be taken that the jet points perfectly upright. Pieces of coke can be fastened by means of Portland cement to the slate just mentioned. All one side should be covered with the coke, and an inch or so from each edge of the other side ; the edges also being hidden in the same way. The whole ought then to be dipped in some liquid MANAGEMENT OF THE AQUARIUM. 53 Portland cement of the consistency of cream, and then left to dry. When it is quite dry, it must be well soaked before it is put in the aquarium. In constructing the above rockwork, and anything else of the kind, care should of course be taken that all formality of arrangement is avoided. This movable rock- work is very convenient in case a missing animal has to be searched for. Rockwork could be built against the pipes by the help of cement with perhaps better effect, but then it must be a fixture. Such a fountain contrivance as this just described I have found a great success, and very little trouble. All that is required is to take the can (C) full of the overflow water every morning, empty it, while standing on a chair, into the tank (A), and return the can to its place under the table. If the fountain is cared for by a lady, the can (C) should be smaller, and perhaps emptied twice a day instead of once. Instead of having the supply tank in the room, the fountain may be connected by means of a leaden siphon to the cistern at the top of the house. I have at present a fountain in an aquarium, worked by a siphon connected with an outside cistern, which is a great success, and when once started is no trouble at all. The two pipes — overflow and supply — run through one hole at the bottom of the window-sash. The aquarium, its slate framework covered with cork, stands on the sill of a staircase window, making an interesting ornament. A syringe is a useful instrument for supplying oxygen arti- ficially to the water of an aquarium. It may be of glass, or such a one as is commonly found in a greenhouse, and con- structed of metal. To use the syringe, it must first be filled with water from the tank, and then, being held at a good height, made forcibly to return the water. This operation should be repeated several times. A pair of ordinary kitchen bellows will also do for the purpose of aération, but it is clumsy and rather tiring to work. A smaller and more suitable pair may be generally bought at a toy-shop, or can easily be made at home. The wood for the construction of the bellows should be about 3in. thick, so that it will not break when they are worked with the necessary force, 54 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA. and will not split when the leather or American cloth is being nailed to its edge. Fig. 40 will show how such bellows may be made to work with a spring instead of the ordinary handles. A, the bellows ready for use, to the nozzle of which (j) is attached a prepared indiarubber tube (h); B, the lower side, to which the spring (d) is fastened; C, the upper side, having a round hole (f) not more than 3in. in diameter. To this hole inside is nailed the usual leather trap-door (i) which opens to receive the air and closes to expel it through the nozzle of the bellows. The nozzle ere & fof ft Fic. 40. BELLOWS FOR AERATING THE WATER OF AN AQUARIUM should be about tin. in diameter, and made of some metal; a piece of small gas-piping will do. It is fixed in the centre of a slip of hard wood, 4in. thick, and this is screwed across the narrow end of B at e. The spring is made by twisting a piece of elastic and stiff wire round the end of a broomstick or some- thing of a like nature, and when made is fastened in the centre of the broad part of Batd. The two sides are joined together by nailing to their edges a piece of leather or American cloth, MANAGEMENT OF THE AQUARIUM. 55 cut the desired shape (for which see A). The little nails or upholstering pins are placed very closely together, so that the bellows are made perfectly air-tight; and the indiarubber tubing should be just large enough to fix securely over the end of the nozzle (j). The other end of the tubing must be stopped with a cork, which should be tied firmly in its place. At the cork end of the tubing there are ten or fifteen little holes, which have been made with a strong pin, and so arranged that they are all point upwards when the tubing is at the bottom of the tank, and the bellows are resting upon the stand or table which the aquarium is on. When the instrument is com- pleted and put in the position just described, press the bellows forcibly with one hand, and immediately several small bubbles of air will be seen to rise in the water and ascend to its surface. This contrivance will be found very useful, not only for aérating an aquarium, but also for supplying air to fish which are being taken a long distance by rail or by road. Fig. 41 represents a useful instrument for aérating the water of an aquarium. It isa small pump or syringe made of india- rubber, and can be bought for a few shillings. It can also be made at home by inserting two pieces of small indiarubber tubing into opposite sides of an indiarubber ball. I have found that sound uncovered tennis-balls will answer the purpose. The pieces of tubing, one longer than the other (Fig. 41), are put into holes just large enough to receive them. These holes can be made by means of a hot piece of thick wire. The tubing and the ball are firmly united by covering the junction (Fig. 37, a) of the two several times with pure indiarubber, this having been dissolved in bisulphide of carbon or chloroform. The carbon or chloroform soon evaporates, and leaves the indiarubber dry and firm.