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FRESH-WATER AQUARIA.
FRESH-WATER
AQUARIA:
THEIR CONSTRUCTION, ARRANGEMENT,
AND MANAGEMENT,
WITH FULL INFORMATION AS TO THE BEST WATER-PLANTS
AND LIVE STOCK TO BE KEPT, HOW AND WHERE TO
OBTAIN THEM, AND HOW TO KEEP THEM IN HEALTH.
BY |.
REV. GREGORY C.’BATEMAN, A.K.C.
‘
PROFUSELY ILLUSTRATED.
Shis Work forms fhe First Division ~of
“Ghe Aquarium Book.”
LONDON:
L. UPCOTT GILL, 170, STRAND, W.C.
1890.
®
PRINTED BY A, BRADLEY,
THE LONDON AND COUNTY PRINTING WORKS, 55 TO 57, DRURY LANE, W.C.
PREFACE.
WAS always fond of Natural History, and while
Iwas a boy I frequently looked forward to one day
possessing an aquarium so large that I might collect
as many aquatic creatures as I liked from the neighbouring
ponds and streams, place them all together in my tank, and
then make myself quite happy by watching the habits and
the changes of my captives. But, alas! in course of time.
I found, as so many find, that the realisation of one’s hopes
does not always bring with it the anticipated pleasure. For
when I did eventually own as big and—as appeared to me at
that time—as suitable an aquarium as I could wish for, and
when I did stock it with many curious and (to my mind)
interesting animals, I was, after all, not very happy, nor even
content; far from it. The Sticklebacks and the aquatic Spiders
would not build their nests. side by side;. the Dytiscus marginalis
absolutely refused to live on anything like friendly terms with
the Minnows; the Snails while crawling over my most valued
plants were not able to refrain from devouring them and
ruining them; the water would not keep: bright, nor the glass
of the tank clear, and my patience was sorely tried. I bought
or borrowed whatever books I could upon aquarium and kin-
dred matters, but I was. not able to obtain all the information
I required. Then JI .attempted to find out by experiment
vi PREFACE.
that which I could not ascertain by reading. After not
a few failures and disappointments, most of my attempts were
successful, and as I began to have more knowledge of these
things, I resolved that I would, at some time or other, try
to write such a book as that I wished for so much when I was
making my first blunders in aquarium matters. By-and-by,
Mr. Upcott Gill was good enough to give me an opportunity
of contributing to The Bazaar a series of articles upon the
fresh-water aquarium. These articles are now re-published
in book form, and so in this way I have kept my resolution
and have written my book; but as I finished looking over the
“proofs” of its last chapter, I confessed, with not a little
mortification, that it fell far short of the book I had hoped
to write. However, I shall feel very thankful if I can be the
means of saving some keepers of an aquarium from dis-
appointment, and many aquatic animals from unnecessary
suffering.
Before or while writing the above-mentioned articles, I read
all or portions of the following books, and to the authors I
am more or less indebted:
“Land and Fresh-water Shells,” by R. Rimmer, F.LS.;
“ British Beetles,” by HE. C. Rye; “Manual of British
Beetles,” by J. F. Stephens, F.L.8.; “ British Wild Flowers,”
by Miss Pratt; “The Aquarium,” by J. E. Taylor, Ph.D.,
F.LS., &e.; “The Fresh and Salt-water Aquarium,” by Rev.
J. G. Wood, M.A.; “Lakes and Rivers,” by C. O. G. Napier,
F.G.S.; “Ponds and Ditches,” by M. C. Cooke, M.A., LL.D.;
“Pond Life—Insects,”’ by HE. A. Butler, B.A. B.Se.;
“Popular History of the Aquarium,” by G. B. Sowerby, F.L.S.;
“The Book of the Aquarium,” -by Shirley Hibberd ; “ Intro-
duction to Entomology,” by Kirby and Spence; “The Natural
History of British Fishes,” by F. Buckland; “Land and Fresh-
water Shells of the British Islands,” by J. EH. Gray, Ph.D.,
F.R.S.; “Popular History of British Crustacea,” by Adam
White; “The Microscope,” by Jabez Hogg, M.R.C.S., F.R.MS.:;
“The Home Naturalist,” by Harland Coultas; “Country Walks,”
by the Rev. H. Houghton, M.A.; “The Badminton Library ”
—“Fishing,”—by H. Cholmondeley Pennell; “L’Aquarium,”
PREFACE. vil
J. Rothschild, Editeur. In addition to these books, I have
consulted Science Gossip and Cassell’s Natural History. There
are other books whose names and authors I have forgotten,
but some of the useful information which I obtained from
them I remember, and for it I am grateful. But the correct-
ness or inaccuracy of whatever information I have gained
from books or articles, I have tried to prove by practical
experience.
G. C. B.
JACOBSTOWE Rectory, NortH DEVON.
July 21, 1890.
CHAPTER
I.
II.
TIT.
IV.
Vv.
VI.
VII.
VIII.
IX.
XI.
XII.
XM.
XIV.
XV.
XVI.
XVII.
CONTENTS.
THE AQUARIUM
MAKING AQUARIA
THE CABINET AQUARIUM
CoLLEcTING EQuIPMENT
MANAGEMENT OF THE AQUARIUM
WATER-PLANTS
AMPHIBIANS
FIsHES 4
SwaI~s AND LIMPETS
MussELs
WATER-BEETLES
WATER-BUGS OR WATER-MEASURERS, WATER-
SCORPIONS, ETC. ...
Larva or WATER-FLIES
WATER-SPIDERS AND WATER-WORMS ...
FRESH-WATER CRUSTACEANS ...
Hypra
RECAPITULATION
INDEX
PAGE
25
42
59
92
109
162
187
197
228
271
284
297
302
307
Uniform with ‘ FRESH-WATER AQUARIA,”
ARINE AQUARIA: Their Con-
struction, Arrangement, and Management; with
Full Information as to the best Animals and Seaweeds to
be Kept, How and Where to Obtain them, and How to
Keep them in Health.
FULLY ILLUSTRATED.
By R. A. KR. BENNETT, B.A.
This Work forms the Second Division of ‘The Aquarium Book.”
Lonpon: L. UPCOTT GILL, 170, Stranp, W.C.
FRESH-WATER AQUARIA.
CHAPTER I.
THE AQUARIUM.
W things are more interesting and less troublesome
than a well cared-for aquarium. It makes no litter
to annoy the tidy housewife, and no noise to distract
the student. Besides, if properly arranged, it is very orna-
mental. The aquarium also is exceedingly useful to the
naturalist in the prosecution of his studies; and by its help
the botanist can conveniently observe aquatic plants as they
pass through the various stages of their existence.
Those who intend to keep an aquarium must remember
that though few things are less troublesome, still it does
require a little care, and that little care should be given
regularly and daily. A few minutes at a time will suffice
—just long enough to feed the fish, to see that there is no
death and no decay, to notice that the light has not been so
strong as to cause the conferve to grow too rapidly, and to
take care that the representatives of the Animal Kingdom do
not exceed the proper proportion according to the amount of
weed provided. The reason for this is that the fish inspire
the oxygen held in solution by the water, and expire carbonic-
acid gas. The plants, by respiration, consume the carbonic-
B
2 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA.
acid gas supplied by the fish, using the carbon for the con-
struction of their tissues and fibres, and liberating again the
oxygen for the use of the animal life within the aquarium; or,
to put it plainer, the fish breathe out carbonic-acid gas and
breathe in oxygen. The snails, which should always be present
in the aquarium, find their food in the confervoid growth and
decaying vegetable matter. They thus not only remove that
which otherwise would be injurious to the inmates of the water,
but they, as also do the fish, convert a part of what they eat
into food for the plants.
The proof that this much-desired
te result is attained is seen in the
apparent health and happiness of
the animals and the sparkling clear-
ness of the water. But to arrange
matters thus will require a little
experience. The plants, however
numerous they may be in the aqua-
rium, will not alone supply sufficient
oxygen. For the principal duty of
the vegetation is, as it has been
said, to decompose the carbonic-
j acid gas expired by the animals,
absorbing the carbon into their own
substance and setting free the
oxygen for the use of the fish; but
the oxygen must be chiefly drawn
from the atmosphere which comes in contact with the surface
of the water. Therefore it will be seen that the shape of the
aquarium is a very important matter; and that this is the
case is proved by a simple experiment. If a wide-mouthed
bottle be filled with water, and an equal quantity of water be
poured into a shallow dish or pan about 2in. deep, and three
or four minnows be placed in each vessel, it will be seen that
while the fish in the pan remain apparently well, those in
the bottle will, after having ascended to the surface of the
water, die.
The reason that the fish in the one case die and in the
8in.
16 in.
Fig. 1.
THE AQUARIUM. 3
other live, is because water is simply a vehicle for holding in
solution the oxygen which is necessary to animal life. And
the greater the surface of water exposed to the air, the more
oxygen will it absorb in proportion to its bulk.
An aquarium of the shape and size of Fig. 1, which would
present to the air a surface of water of 32 square inches,
would hardly supply the oxygen
& in. necessary for the health of three
a small fish; while one like Fig. 2,
having a superficial measurement
of 64 square inches, would hold
comfortably six small fish; but
one of the shape and size of
Fig. 3, presenting a surface of
128 square inches, would supply
rn sufficient oxygen for tweive fish.
Fic. 2. And yet all three aquaria would
contain exactly the same quantity
of water, viz., 512 cubic inches.
I have kept twenty-six small minnows for a week in an
ordinary soup-plate, a little more than half-full of water, and
then only one of them died. At the present time one pike
(9in. long). twenty very small roach (about l}in. long), nine
perch (from 24in. to 3in. long), and one large water newt
{6 in.
8,
Ain,
Fig. 3.
(Triton cristatus) are living in perfect health in an aquarium
lin. by 133in., but which contains water only 2in. deep—
sufficient to cover the dorsal fin of the biggest fish as he
swims just clear of the bottom. And these fish live in this
comparatively small quantity of water in apparently the
“pest of health, not only because the water is very shallow in
B2
4 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA.
proportion to its superficies, but also because the act of their
swimming agitates the surface of the water, thus helping to
aérate the whole of it; and for the same reason the twenty-
six minnows lived for a week, and would have done s0
longer, in an ordinary soup-plate half-full of water.
Of course, an aquarium ought not to be so shallow that
the water-plants will fail to grow properly. A tank may be
of almost any depth, but it must have length and breadth in
proportion. To sum up, in order that an aquarium may
be a success, it is necessary that it should be of the right
shape; that the repre-
sentatives of the Animal
Kingdom should not be
in excess of the mini-
mum amount of weed;
and that a little care
be taken daily to main-
tain their balance.
It is almost unneces-
sary to say that if an
aquarium is taken up as
a toy, to be fussed over
for a few days and then
= to be neglected for
Fic. 4. weeks, it will be any-
thing but pleasing and
instructive. The water under these circumstances will
quickly become corrupt and offensive, many of the animals
will die, those which are unfortunate enough to survive will
be extremely miserable, and the owner and his friends will
come to the conclusion that an aquarium is certainly not
what I have described it to be—both pleasing and instructive.
There are very many kinds of aquaria, ranging from the
simple, flat earthenware pan, to the beautiful and expensive
combination of plate-glass, slate, fountains, enamel, and
gilding. All are more or less useful. The aquarium, of
course, most suitable for the fish and the plants is that
which most resembles a pond—the light only entering it”
THE AQUARIUM. 5
from above. The great drawback to a tank of this kind is
the difficulty of watching closely the movements and ways of
its inhabitants, and besides, such a one cannot be said to be
ornamental. The commonest aquarium, perhaps, is that often
described as an “inverted propagating glass” (Fig. 4). This
kind has its advantages and disadvantages. Its advantages
are the facility with which the contents can be inspected, its
non-leaking character, its cheapness, its portability, and its
attractiveness. Its disadvantages are
its transparency, which causes much
discomfiture to the fish and too great
a growth of conferve ; and its proneness
to apparently distort its inhabitants
as they swim round it. However, the
transparency can be partly overcome
by judicious shading, the method of
which will be explained when “light”
is spoken of, and the apparent distortion can be avoided by
taking care to choose white and well-blown glasses. In buying
an aquarium of this kind, that which is broadest and
shallowest should certainly have the preference.
Another receptacle for water and fish is the common glass
globe (Fig. 5), which has nothing whatever to recommend
it, except perhaps to those who delight to hang their
Fig. 5.
Fig. 6.
unfortunate captives—suspended by a chain from the ceiling—
in front of the window; and of course an aquarium which is
6 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA.
to be placed in this position—the worst possible—must, on
account of its weight, be small; besides, if full, the surface
of water exposed to the air must be extremely limited.
The ordinary oblong tank (Fig. 6), containing four glass
sides, is both ornamental and useful. However, in order that
Fic. 7.
the fish may be happy and the vegetation kept within bounds,
an arrangement of curtains and the like must be made, which
will be explained in due course. This aquarium is made of
iron and glass or zinc and glass.
|
i
(=
Fig. 8.
A very useful and somewhat easily-made tank is shown at
Fig. 7. It is constructed of glass, wood, and slate. The
ends and bottom are of wood, the former being lined with
thin window-glass, the latter with slate; and the sides are
formed of plate-glass.
THE AQUARIUM. 7
A more useful aquarium than any yet mentioned is one
formed of slate and plate-glass only (Fig. 8). It can be
made by an amateur without much difficulty. But perhaps
the tank most suitable for its purpose is Fig. 9. One side
only is of glass; the others can be made of wood lined with
Fig. 9.
glass, or of slate only. The former method is the easier and
cheaper to construct, the latter the more serviceable.
Explicit directions for making aquaria similar to those
shown at Figs. 6, 7, 8, and 9, are given in Chapter IT.
CHAPTER II.
MAKING AQUARIA.
appears more difficult to make an aquarium than
it really is. Even a tank like Fig. 6, though it
is less easy to construct than most of the aquaria
mentioned in Chapter I., is not beyond the powers of the
ordinary amateur mechanic. Of course it will require some
little skill, care, and patience; but when it is properly made
Fic. 10. IRON Buock.
A, Side View; B, End View; C, Standing on its End.
it will not only be useful as an aquarium, but also, if wished,
it can, at some future time, be turned into either a fernery
or a vivarium.
The materials which will be required for its construction are
MAKING AQUARIA. 9
zinc, solder, cement, and plate-glass. The tools necessary are
an old tenon-saw, square, hammer, soldering-iron, and a pair
of scissors made for cutting sheet metal; but besides these a
few blocks must be prepared. The amateur can either make
the blocks himself, or he can get them made at a trifling cost.
I will describe them in the order in which they will be required.
SZ
Fig. 11. STEEL Bar.
Fig. 10 shows an iron block, 6in. long, having a U-shaped
groove down its centre. The groove is jin. wide and $in. deep.
The holes at each end of the block are for the screws which
fasten it firmly to the bench. It will not only be useful for the
purpose for which it has been made, but at any time it will be
serviceable as a small anvil for straightening nails and the like.
A B
Fic. 12, Woop BLock. A, Side View; B, End View.
Fig. 11 represents a steel bar a little less than jin. in diameter,
and a little longer than the aquarium is intended to be. Figs.
12 and 13 illustrate blocks made of some hard wood. That in
Fig. 12 ought to be not less than Gin. long, and the groove in it
should be at least lin. deep, and just broad enough to receive a
double thickness of zinc. The latter has a groove exactly the
= &
A B
Fig. 13. Woop Bock. A, Side View; B, End View.
same size as that in the iron block (Fig. 10). Fig. 14 is made
of hard wood, faced with two iron plates. The groove in this
block must equal that of the iron block (Fig. 10), and the
iron plates should be just far enough apart to receive a double
thickness of zinc. Besides these blocks an ordinary mitre-
10 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA.
block will be useful, and all of them are more or less necessary,
not only for the preparation of the zinc framework of this
particular aquarium, but also for other aquaria of a much
easier make. The zinc should be moderately stout—that is,
about No. 12 gauge.
Having decided upon the dimensions of the tank now about
to be made, cut four strips of zinc its exact length, four its
Fic. 14. IRON-FACED BLOCK.
A, Side View; B, End View; C, Face View.
exact breadth, and four its exact height. Hach piece ought
to be ‘hin. wide. Now take a strip of zinc, mark a line down
its centre, and place it upon the iron block (Fig. 10), the line
marked on the zinc being exactly over the middle of the groove
and running lengthwise with it. Then take the steel bar
(Fig. 11) by the handle in the left hand, hold the rod part
of it exactly over the line marked on the zine (and which, of
qe
=A) OE
~ Os im.
Fig. 15. Fig. 16,
course, will be over the centre of the groove in the block), and,
with the hammer in the right hand, drive the bar and the zinc
home into the groove, and about 6in. of the strip of zinc will
be bent into the shape of Fig. 15; bend the rest of the strip
in this way, then press, by means of a pair of pincers (Fig. 16),
the zinc tightly round the steel bar. When this has been done
evenly and carefully along the whole length of the strip, put
MAKING AQUARIA. 11
the flat part of the zinc into the narrow groove of the block
Fig. 12, the bar not having been withdrawn.
Take the block Fig. 13, place it over the tubing now formed
in the zinc, and by striking it (the block) with a hammer rectify
any inequality which may have appeared in the moulding.
Separate the steel bar from the zinc and slide the latter, tubing
downwards, into the iron-faced block (Fig.
14). Then with a chisel or other like tool
open the flat portion of the zinc now facing
upwards until it forms as nearly as possible
a right angle (Fig. 17). When this has been
done, withdraw the moulding from the block,
and it should now have assumed the shape Fic. 17.
of Fig. 18. If the edges be found to be not
quite straight and true, they may easily be made so by
hammering them on a side of the mitre-block.
Bend all the other strips in the same way, and then take
two of them the length of the proposed aquarium and two of
its breadth, and mitre them together. The mitre cuts can
readily be made by means of an old tenon-saw and an ordinary
mitre-block. Having fixed them in position (Fig.
19), solder the corners neatly and firmly together,
taking care to have the flat portions of the
moulding perfectly square—that is one edge quite
perpendicular and the other perfectly horizontal
(Fig. 20). This will be for the bottom of the
aquarium.
Now take four other pieces of moulding, corre-
sponding to the last four, and repeat exactly the
same operation, and then the top of the tank will
be formed. Next join the top and bottom together
at the corners by means of the remaining four
pieces of moulding. Fig. 22 will show the way in
which these joints are to be made. Care, of course, should be
taken that everything is square and true. The framework of
the aquarium ‘will now be complete. It will be, if properly
done, very strong.
For a bottom, cut a piece of zinc or slate (the latter being far
MOULDING.
12 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA.
preferable) the length and breadth of the tank (inside measure-
ments), place it on the ledge which is running round the lower
part of the frame inside, and solder or cement it there. The
glass for the sides should be iin. thick, and long enough to go
quite across from end to end. But the glass for the ends ought
>
Fig. 19. Four PIECES OF ZINC MOULDING JOINED TOGETHER, thus forming
either the Top or the Bottom of Frame for Aquarium.
just to touch the glass in the sides, so helping to hold it in its
place. Before putting the glass into the frame its bed ought
to be painted with gold-size, and then covered with a thinnish
coating of cement. Recipes for several kinds of cement are
given at the end of this chapter. But, for an aquarium of this
A
Fic. 20. Posirion oF ZINC Fic. 21. A, Zinc Frame;
MOULDING WHEN FRAMED. B, Glass; C, Cement,
kind, a mixture of red and white lead is recommended. Now
put the glass in, and press it gently into its place. Put the
sides in first. Paint all the corners with gold-size, and then fill
them in with cement to the depth of about qin. (Fig. 21). When
the cement has been roughly put into position, the fixing of it
MAKING AQUARIA. 13
may be firmly and neatly completed by gently rubbing it with
the finger upon the end of which is some gold size.
The tank should now be left to dry for some days; but
during this time a stand and covering for it may be prepared.
The stand (Fig. 23) can be made of oak, mahogany, or deal;
Fic. 22. SHOWING THE JUNCTION OF THE ZINC MOULDING AT THE CORNERS.
this last should be stained and varnished. It ought to bea trifle
longer and broader than the aquarium. A groove must be cut
in its surface, to receive the beading of the zinc which is at the
bottom of the tank. The whole should stand quite firmly.
Instead of the heavy-looking covering usually made for such an
SO ——
Fic. 23, STAND FOR ZINC-FRAMED AQUARIUM.
aquarium as this, a flat piece of glass or of perforated zinc is to
be preferred: the former is the better.
At the end of a week the cement will have become somewhat
hard; and if red and white lead have been used as the cement,
14 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA.
it should now receive two coats of a varnish made of the best
sealing-wax dissolved in spirits of wine. With this the zinc
bottom ought also to be painted two or three times. Japan
black may be used instead of the above varnish, but it will not
be so satisfactory. If no varnish at all is used, the aquarium
must be filled with water for three weeks or a month before
it is stocked with plants and fish, the water being frequently
changed during the time. The framework of the aquarium
will be much improved in appearance if carefully painted
with Brunswick Black or enamel of some suitable colour; if
black is used. it may be “picked out” with gold or yellow.
Fic. 24. METHOD OF DOVETAILING CROSSBARS OF AQUARIUM (FIG. 7) INTO
UPPER PART OF ENDS.
J have taken it for granted that the maker of such a tank as
this has had some little practice in the use of the soldering-iron.
But should the reader not know how to solder, and yet wish to
attempt to make such an aquarium as this, he cannot do better
than invest 6d. in an excellent little book entitled “ Working
in Sheet Metal,”* which will give him all the information he
will require.
It is comparatively easy to make an aquarium to resemble
Fig. 7. The ends and bottom are made of lin. well-seasoned
deal, dovetailed together. They are grooved. The grooves run
with the grain, and are $in. deep, about the same wide, and
3in. from each edge. The ends are held firmly in their places
* “Working in Sheet Metal.” Instructions to amateurs in soldering, brazin:
&c. By the author of ‘Turning for Amateurs.” L : * +
Strand, W.C. 5 rs.” London: L. Upeott Gill, 170,
MAKING AQUARIA. 15
by two bars at the top of the aquarium (Fig. 7, a). These bars
are 2in. broad and lin. thick. They are dovetailed into their
places (Fig, 24), and have grooves to correspond with those in
the bottom and the ends.
The ends are lined with window-glass and the bottom is lined
with slate. The sides are formed of plate-glass Hin. thick;
these must be put in their places before the crossbars at the
top of the aquarium are fastened, the grooves into which they
go having previously been half-filled with cement No. 2 (p. 24).
Cover the bottom with a thin layer of the cement just
mentioned, and press the slate firmly and gently into its place.
Fix, in the same way, the glass linings for the ends. Fill up
the corners with a cement of red and white lead to’ the depth
of Zin., and when it is somewhat hard put over it a coating of
the cement which was first used. This cement might be
employed throughout; but then, for safety, it must be used a little
more liberally than the other. The junction of the glass
linings with the ends, and the dovetailing of the crossbars, can
be hidden by four strips of wood, 23in. wide and Hin. thick,
neatly mitred together, the corners of which framing may be
decorated with small turned ornaments (as in Fig. 7). The
woodwork will look well either stained, sized, and varnished, or
French-polished. The aquarium should have six little feet
lin. high, screwed to the bottom.
Slate Zin. or lin. thick will be required to make a tank like
Fig. 8. It may be- procured at a slate merchant’s at a cost of
about 10d. a foot. The three pieces which will be wanted can
most likely be obtained the size required. The bottom 30in.
long and 16in. wide, and the ends each 16in. by 18in., will
make an aquarium of good dimensions. At lin. from the
extremity of each end—that is, across the broad part—cut a
groove in. deep and lin. broad. This is supposing that slate
lin. thick has been chosen; but if it is only #in. thick, then
the groove must be proportionately smaller each way. The
groove may be cut in the following manner: First mark with
an awl the exact place and dimensions of the groove. Then
get two straight-edged pieces of wood some inches longer
than the breadth of the end; place them each side of the line
16 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA.
which is to be cut, and nail them to the bench—they should be
Just wide enough apart to admit a tenon-saw—and with the
saw cut the line to the required depth, jin. Without some
such preparation as this it would be difficult to cut the sides of
the grooves with the necessary accuracy. When both lines
have been sawn in this way, take a chisel and mallet and cut
out the slate which lies between them. But before using the
chisel take the precaution to put two or three folds of carpet,
or the like, between the slate and the bench to prevent all jarring
and the danger of a crack. These grooves are to receive the
ends of the bottom.
There is E suobher way of making the cuts for these grooves.
It is this: Get a piece of hoop-iron,
; = about a foot long, and straighten
it. Then for a handle procure 10in.
of broomstick, more or less, saw it
half through lengthwise, and hammer
the hoop-iron into the groove. Mark
with an awl the place on the slate
where the cut is to be made—and
deepen this mark a little by running
the point of a three-cornered file a
FIG ee eo nroka) SEATE few times carefully up and down.
oe (FIG. 8), show- 7 i
ing Grooves for, Glass Fill the slight groove thus made
a Sass Pe eae with fine white sand, and moisten it
with water by means of a wet brush.
Now run to and fro in this sand and water the edge of the
tool which has just been made. By continually doing this,
always keeping plenty of sand and water under the edge of
the iron, the cut will gradually become deep enough. When
the cuts have been made, the portion of slate between them may
be chiselled out as before directed. As a rule, the slate can be
split cleanly out by striking the chisel against the edge and not
on the top of the slate, and there is less danger of breakage.
The latter method of making the cuts is the more satisfactory
of the two—the former so quickly blunts the saw.
Now along both sides of the bottom and of each end, cut, at
a distance of jin. from the edge, grooves }in. deep and Sin.
2 ry
MAKING AQUARIA. 17
broad. These grooves are to receive the plate-glass sides, tin.
thick. After this bore four holes, fin. in diameter, right
through each end. Two of these are to be 14in. from the edge
and iin. below the groove which is to receive the end of the
bottom, and two lin. from the top and just within the grooves
cut for the glass (Fig. 25).
The holes are for the bolts which run across from end to end
to hold the aquarium together. Bore them with an ordinary
brace, and a bit used for metal. The bolts should be made of
brass wire; but iron will do. It is a wise precaution to have
the thread for the nut a little longer than necessary, for it can
easily be shortened when the bolts are in their places, and
the long threading is a great convenience in the screwing-up.
Before putting the aquarium together, place a little cement in
all the grooves. Then raise the bottom on blocks of wood to
such a height that it will be level with the grooves cut to
receive it in the two ends. And when this has been done, put
the ends, plate-glass, and bolts into position, and screw them
all together, turning the nuts of the bolts with only the finger
and thumb. Before the nuts are quite screwed home, press the
glass gently downward, so that it is forced firmly into its place.
Carefully finish filling up the grooves with cement, and the
aquarium will be completed. If iron bolts have been used,
paint them with Brunswick Black.
An aquarium like Fig. 9 will perhaps be more suitable for its
purpose than any yet described, but will not be so ornamental.
It makes an excellent tank for marine specimens; and may be
made either of wood, slate, and glass, or of slate and glass only.
If made on the former plan, the directions given for the con-
struction of an aquarium like Fig. 7 will suffice for the building
of this, with the following exceptions: A wooden side lined
with window-glass, or roofing-slate, will take the place of a plate-
glass side. As the aquarium will be broader than Fig. 7, the
grooves in the ends for the glass front must run across the
grain, and the bottom must be made the required breadth by
clamping and glueing on another piece of wood. The wood
work ought to be dovetailed together; but if this cannot con-
veniently be done, nailing with long French nails will do. The
c
18: FRESH-WATER AQUARIA.
front must be framed as wellas the top. A useful size for an
aquarium of this description will be 24in. long, 20in. wide, and
10in. deep. If the tank is to be made of slate and plate-glass
only, the directions given for making an aquarium like Fig. 8
will be enough, except
that in the place of a
glass side there will be
a slate one, and for this
the grooves, instead of
being 4in. deep and Zin.
broad, ought to be 4in.
deep and Iltin. broad.
This is a most useful
Fic. 26. PORTABLE AQUARIUM. and durable aquarium.
Fig. 26 represents a
very easily and cheaply made aquarium. It is a small tank,
chiefly useful for observing the habits of insects and the like.
Being of little weight, it can conveniently be moved about
when full of water. It is deeper and narrower in proportion
than a aquarium in which fish are kept ought to be. The
foundation is made of lin.
well-seasoned wood (maho-
gany answers the purpose
excellently), Cut a piece
14in. long by lin. broad.
At lin. from the edge, all
round, make a groove jin.
wide, and the same deep;
bend four pieces of zinc
moulding according to the Q
instructions already given, ,
10in.long. Boreahole jin. Fie. 27. BoTToM OF PORTABLE AQUARIUM,
in diameter at each corner eee ne fk Gelaee: Balch eine
of the grooving in such a
way that the square part of the moulding when sunk in the wood
will come flush with the outside of the groove; and when this
has been done make a cutting with a keyhole-saw to receive the
flat. portion of the zinc upright (Fig. 27). Drive gently with a
MAKING AQUARIA, 19
mallet each piece of moulding until its end has come flush with
the other side of the wood foundation; then by driving a long
French nail, minus its head, into the side of the wood and
through the flat part of the zinc, each upright can be made firm.
Now cut two strips of zinc 12in. long, and two Qin. long, all lin.
wide. Mitre them, then join together with solder. When this
has been done, take what is made of the aquarium, turn it
upside down, place each upright on a corner of this frame, and
solder them carefully there. Next get a piece of roofing slate,
and with an old saw cut it to fit as a lining for the bottom. The
four sides may be of window-glass of a moderate thickness. Use
red and white lead as the cement, and paint it, when dry, with
two coats of sealing-wax varnish or Aspinall’s Bath Enamel. If
this cement is not covered in some way, every aquarium in
which it is used must be thoroughly soaked before it is stocked;
indeed, the soaking of a new aquarium in which cement of any
kind has been used should never be omitted. Fill the spaces
which may have occurred through inaccurate work, between
the outside of the glass and the groove in the wood foundation,
with Portland cement or plaster of Paris, and the tank is
complete. :
If the uprights are not more than 6in. in height, they will
need no support at the top. Instead of the groove cut in
the wooden foundation, slips of wood may support the glass
at the bottom; the slips will save trouble, but will not make’
the aquarium look so neat as the grooving would. Aquaria
made in this way are easily and cheaply constructed, and
are not likely to leak.
An arrangement of an aquarium and fernery combined is
interesting and ornamental (Fig. 28). This combination
is fixed outside a window. The tank should be of slate and
plate-glass, like Fig. 8, but it may be similar to either Fig. 7
or Fig. 9. I£ it be either of the first two shapes, then the.
stand should be so arranged that there will be a place for
ferns beyond the aquarium. The effect of seeing them
through the water will be pleasing, and at the same time
they will provide suitable shade for the fish. The framework
to support and protect the aquarium and fernery may be as
c 2
Hn ea A A Te me
if — a Te i ie
i wit
enc = Mi
it —- rl 7
| = a
Mi ial HN i)
cen i it
eat
Hl Hil
FIG. 28. AQUARIUM AND FERNERY COMBINED.
MAKING AQUARIA. 21
high as the window—or only half as high—but its breadth
should somewhat exceed that of the window. The reason for
this greater breadth is that the tank may be so long that its
Fic. 29. Back OF AQUARIUM AND FERNERY COMBINED.
ends will not be exposed to view, the aquarium thus ap-
pearing to be larger than it really is. If the tank is made
22 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA.
of slate, according to Fig. 8, only a piece of plate-glass will
be seen as its front, no top bar being necessary, which would
mar the effect. The whole combination may be supported by
a strong wooden stand outside the window (Fig. 80); or if
the room to which it is affixed is an upper one, iron brackets
let into the wall must be used instead of the stand. The
frame, back, and sides should be glazed with tinted cathedral
glass, especially if the view from the window is unpleasing.
One large sheet is used for the back (A, Fig. 29); but if it
should not be convenient to use only one pane for this
purpose, the necessary wood-work for more than one may be
tastefully covered inside with cork, with here and there a
fern, which may be planted in the following way: Get a
small, round tin canister with a few holes punched in the
bottom, and sew round it two pieces of sufficiently-curved
cork, using thin copper wire for this purpose, and in this
contrivance plant the fern. Ferns ‘in suitable baskets may be
hung from.the roof of the frame, but care should be taken
that they are not too heavy, as this roof should be so
arranged as to open and shut at pleasure. No fern ought to
be hung in such a way that the drip from it would fall
inside the aquarium. If anything does hang over the tank,
it should be a fern-basket and filter in one, which combina-
tion is not difficult to make.
A fountain playing in the aquarium will be a great im-
provement, and can, according to circumstances, be more or
less easily contrived.
Directions for making fountains and the filter are given in
another chapter.
Fig. 30 represents a section of the fernery and aquarium
combination. A, window-sill; B, aquarium; C and D, trays
for ferns, running the whole length of the aquarium; E, one
of the hanging-baskets; F, fountain; G, wooden support; H
and I, legs to support aquarium and tray. The trays ought
to have holes in their bottoms, to allow for drainage, which
should be able to run freely through the floor of the frame-
work into the yard or garden outside. Instead of the trays
C and D for ferns, one tray, so arranged as to admit of
MAKING AQUARIA. " 23
a sloping surface of mould (as shown by the dotted line) may
be substituted.
All the aquaria described in this chapter, with one ex-
ee
Fic. 30 SECTION OF AQUARIUM AND FERNERY COMBINED.
ception, I have myself made at different times, and the one
excepted was made by a friend; therefore it will be seen that
24 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA.
their construction is not beyond the powers of an ordinary
amateur mechanic.
The following cements have been found useful in the con-
struction of aquaria:
1. Red and white lead—the two being mixed together into
a stiff paste. The bed for this cement ought to be painted
with gold-size. :
2. One pint each of plaster of Paris, litharge, fine white
sand, and one-third pint of finely-powdered resin. This (or in
this proportion) should be kept in a well-stoppered bottle, and
when wanted the necessary quantity should be made into a
putty with boiled oil and driers. This is a very quick-drying
cement. It becomes, if anything, too hard.
3. The same as No. 2, with the exception of the plaster of
‘Paris and the driers.
4, The best Portland cement.
5. One part pitch and one-fourth part gutta-percha, applied
when warm. These should be melted together in an iron
ladle over a gas-flame or lamp. This cement is especially
useful for an aquarium made of wood.
In buying an aquarium, care should be taken to choose one
which is broad and shallow in proportion to its size. It
ought, at the same time, to be neat in appearance and
strongly made.
The different aquaria suitable for insects only will be de-
scribed in another chapter.
CHAPTER III.
THE CABINET AQUARIUM.
IN arrangement called the “cabinet aquarium” is ex-
ceedingly interesting and instructive. It consists of
a kind of backless bookcase, upon the shelves of
which are placed small aquaria containing such aquatic
plants and animals as are unsuitable, owing to various
reasons, for the general tank. These shelves should be strong,
and so constructed that they will-stand quite firmly. They
may be made of almost any kind of wood, and in either
a plain or an ornamental manner, as the taste of the
aquarium-keeper may dictate or his purse allow. They may
also be constructed to stand upon the floor, or upon a table.
Care should be taken, however, that the shelves are at
different distances apart, the greatest space being between
the first two shelves, counting from the bottom. Shelves
thus arranged will hold vessels of various sizes.
The most suitable position for the cabinet aquarium is
about 6ft. from a window, and out of reach of the direct rays
of the sun. Then, if the stand has been wisely built, the
contents of the aquaria can be easily watched without any
inconvenience.
No shelf should be so low as to occasion stooping on the
part of the aquarium-keeper, or so high as to necessitate his
standing upon a chair or stool. If the stand is required to
hold very many vessels, it should be long rather than too
26 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA.
high or too low. A cabinet aquarium, if properly arranged
and cared for, is rather an ornament in a room. It will
impede hardly any light when placed at right angles to a
window.
None but those who have possessed some such arrangement
as a cabinet aquarium can readily understand how much in-
terest and instruction it is able to afford. Some change or
other is always taking place in the various aquaria, and thus
there is continually a fresh lesson to be learnt or a new wonder
whereat to be astonished. As nearly all the little tanks can
be made more or less self-supporting, a very small amount of
trouble will be required in their management. If the shelves
are made to stand upon the floor of the room, and not upon
a table, a small cupboard or a drawer or two may be con-
trived beneath the lowest shelf, which will be very convenient
for holding siphons, nets, cans, and the like.
An arrangement of a simpler kind than that just described
can be made by placing a piece of strong board lengthwise
across any large tank which has slate or wooden ends. Such
a board will hold several small aquaria. If it is of a fair length,
three small inverted propagating-glasses may be placed upon
it at equal distances apart, the middle glass being a little
larger than the other two, chiefly for the sake of appearance.
The glasses will stand quite firmly if the knob of each is
inserted through a hole made in the board. There may also
be room for other and smaller aquaria between the glasses.
Little oblong tanks might be used, and with advantage, instead
of the propagating-glasses.
The vessels of the cabinet aquarium may be either rectangular
or round—the former shape, for several reasons, being the
more suitable; but whether they are square or round, there
should certainly be some uniformity among them. Propagating-
glasses of various sizes can always be used in the cabinet
aquarium by fixing them as just described. A great disad-
advantage of these glasses is that they so much distort the
objects which they contain; but if they are used it is
wise to have a few common stands at hand for them, which
will be convenient in case the glasses have occasionally to be
THE CABINET AQUARIUM. 27
moved. The stands can be easily and cheaply made. For
instance, a piece of wood about Gin. square, having a hole big
enough to receive the knob of the glasses bored in the centre,
and also having two strips of wood (lin. thick) nailed across
two opposite ends, will be quite as firm as the ordinary turned
stand; or a small and strong wooden box, with a hole cut in
the middle of the lid, or if there be no lid, through the bottom,
will answer the purpose very well. In the latter case, the
box must be inverted, of course.
Various cheap glass bottles or jars are useful for the
cabinet aquarium. For example, the jam or fruit jars made
NAANGSSKCC
CTT TS
WY
at
\
MY
7
yj
HUY [LAY
I};
¢
FIG. 31. EASILY AND CHEAPLY-MADE INSECT AQUARIUM.
by Messrs. G. Clark and Co., of Bordeaux, are of fairly clear
glass, wide-mouthed, neckless, neatly shaped, and provided with
lids, which, when perforated with small holes, make excellent
“covers. Of course, there are other vessels equally suitable
for the cabinet aquarium, and those of Messrs. Clark are
only referred to in order that some idea may be given of what
kind to use. The long clear glasses used by confectioners for
the exhibition of sweetmeats in their windows can be utilised
with advantage for such purposes as the cultivation of certain
aquatic plants and some animals. There are other bottles, too,
generally used also by confectioners for keeping their goods
28 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA.
in, but not for showing them. These are made of coarser glass
than those just mentioned, and they also possess the dis-
advantage of having a short neck and a mouth of a much less
diameter than the rest of the bottle. The neck and mouth,
however, can be cut off by a simple method, which will be
explained. There is, nevertheless, a great drawback to all
bottles and the like for aquarium purposes, and this is that
their depth is much too great in proportion to their width.
Still, there are circumstances under which they are more
useful than wider and shallower vessels.
Rectangular aquaria are by far the best for the cabinet and
other purposes. Small ones, such as that illustrated at Fig. 31,
can be easily, cheaply, and quickly made, according to the
following directions:
For the bottom (E), procure a piece of well-seasoned board
lin. in thickness of any size up to 16in. long and 12in wide.
No tank which is intended for the cabinet aquarium should
be broader than the shelf of the cabinet upon which it is to
stand.
Cut four strips of stout zinc lin. wide, and of any length
up to Gin. long.
Bend these four pieces of zinc lengthwise at right angles.
This may be done by the help of a carpenter’s ordinary vice,
or by hammering half of the zine over the square edge of a
hard piece of board. A line should be made down the middle
of the strips to guide the bending, which ought to be quite
correct.
Make at nearly the extremity of one end, by means of a
small awl, two holes, one through each side of the zine
moulding, for the wire as represented at D D.
Before nailing a piece of the moulding to each corner of
the board which is intended for the bottom of the aquarium,
a small portion of the wood should’ be cut away so that the
zinc-moulding may be let in until it is quite flush with the
edge of the board.
Cut a strip of zinc 1iin. wide and so long that it will go exactly
round the edges of the board for the bottom (B B).
Nail one piece of the zine moulding at each corner of the
THE CABINET AQUARIUM. 29
board in the place cut for it (A A). See that it is quite
upright. Use small French nails, and hammer them well
into the zinc. One nail at each side of the moulding will be
sufficient.
- Nail the piece of zinc, which has been cut 1}in. wide, quite
round the edge of the wood for the bottom. The zinc to the
height of jin. should come above the board. The nails ought
to be put through the centre of the zinc. If the tank is not
more than 6in. long, three French nails in each side will be
enough; one nail at each end, close to the edge of the
uprights, and one in the middle.
Window-glass should now ‘be cut to fit the frame just made,
and put in its place (C C). The glass ought to just reach
the holes in the zinc made for the wire.
Draw four pieces of thin copper or brass wire tightly
through the holes made for it, and fasten it neatly (D).
Copper wire must be well stretched before it is used. The
wire should then hold the glass sides in their places.
Melt in a tin saucer over a lamp four parts pitch and one
part gutta-percha. The pitch and gutta-percha must be well
mixed before it is fit for use. It should boil for some little
time and be stirred with a small iron spoon. Instead of the,
pitch and gutta-percha the following cement may be used, viz. :
One part pitch, one part resin, and a little boiled oil—this last
in the proportion of a tablespoonful to $lb. pitch. This also
must be boiled and well mixed together.
Take what is already made of the aquarium and hold it in
the left hand. In the right hand take a spoonful of the
boiling cement and allow it to cool a little for a moment or
two, or it will crack the glass. Then put the spoonful of
cement into one corner of the aquarium, and having returned
the spoon to the saucer, with both hands tilt the aquarium
carefully, so that the cement will run just at the junction of
two pieces of glass, up to the top of the aquarium and
then down again. Continue to do this until the cement ceases
to flow. If this be well done, the cement will not be seen
beyond the edges of the moulding. Treat all the corners
in the same way, but do not begin a second corner until the
30 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA.
first is quite firm. This cement sets very quickly. When all
the corners have been cemented, with the spoon pour sufficient
of the mixture on the bottom to cover it, and then the
aquarium, after standing an hour, will be ready for use.
After a little practice, several aquaria, such as the one just
described, can be made ina morning. If carefully constructed,
they look very neat, and will not leak, unless perhaps when
placed for a long time within reach of the rays of a very
hot sun—a position which is not fit for any aquarium. Even
under these circumstances probably the tank would not leak
at all, but the pitch would begin to melt. The zinc-work of
these small cabinet aquaria may be painted with Brunswick
Black or with Aspinall’s Enamel. Instead of the pitch-cement,
Fig. 32. CHEAPLY-MADE ALL-GLASS AQUARIUM FOR INSECTS.
mixed red and white lead can be substituted, and after it is
quite dry covered with Aspinall’s Bath Enamel. When the
red and white lead are used the aquarium must be well
soaked before it is stocked.
Tanks made according to the above directions should not be
of greater dimensions than 16in. long, 12in. wide, and 5in. deep.
Those of the largest size should be placed on the bottom shelf
of the cabinet. In fact, these tanks ought to be constructed
according to the shelves, and should stand at least 2in.
apart when placed in position, in order that they may be
easily moved.
Fig. 32 represents another useful and easily-made little tank
which is very suitable for the cabinet aquarium. This small
THE CABINET AQUARIUM. 31
vessel is made entirely of glass, of which there are five pieces,
fastened together with marine glue. The two sides and the ends
are stuck to the bottom at the distance of about tin. from its
edge all round. The former are 4in. shorter than the bottom,
and the latter are nearly if not quite as broad. The sides are
put in their places first, and when they are firm the ends are
glued to the extremities of the sides. The gluing is done by
holding a piece of glue about the size of a pea, attached to the
point of an awl, in the flame of a candle until it begins to burn
and melt, when it should be gently drawn along a mark which
has been made on the glass until the glue at the end of the awl
is used. The glue should be placed on the glass quite evenly
to the depth of about }in., and the same in breadth. When
a line of glue is completed, the edge of the piece of glass
which is to be fastened by it should be gently heated, and
then pressed carefully into the glue. In a minute or two the
glass will be quite firm. The gluing should be executed
neatly, for any trimming that is required to be done after the
aquarium has been put together, tends to weaken it. As soon
as the little tank is finished, it may be filled with water, and if
the work has been done with care there will be no leaking.
Should the vessel, however, be not quite watertight, it may
be easily made so by an additional piece of glue, or by
running a little of the pitch-cement previously recommended
over the weak spot, and, to make matters safer, over every
joint. Such an aquarium as the one just described is very
usefal for small aquatic animals; but it should not be con-
structed of greater dimensions than the following, viz., Qin.
long, 2in. wide, and 2in. deep. I have made tanks of this
kind as large as Ift. long, 6in. deep, and 6in. wide; but
I find that they are liable to give a little when the weather
or the room in which they are placed is too hot. Though
the joints open sometimes under these circumstances as much
as 3in., the glue and pitch together become so elastic that the
water is rarely allowed to escape.
The large bottles, which have been already referred to as
suitable for the cabinet aquarium, can be cut in half by satu-
rating a piece of thick worsted in paraffin, and tying it evenly
32 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA.
round the bottle at the proper place and then setting it on
fire. As the worsted burns, the glass will crack in the
direction of the flame. The rough edges of the shortened
bottles may be rubbed off by using a piece of the stone with
which scythes are sharpened.
Among other things, clear, thin, plain glass tumblers are
very convenient vessels for the upper shelves of the cabinet
aquarium; but the habits and wants of the various animals
and plants should be considered before they are placed in any
of the many different articles which may be converted into
aquaria.
Every tank of the cabinet aquarium ought to be provided with
a well-fitting glass cover, for the purpose not only of preventing
the escape of its inmates, but also of excluding the dust and of
lessening, as far as possible, evaporation; and it is wise to gum
a strip of white paper along the bottom of the front of each
aquarium, in order that a record may be kept of the times
when and the places where its contents were obtained, and
any other circumstance of interest in connection with them.
When the stand of the cabinet aquarium is completed, and
all its shelves are judiciously filled with vessels, some clean
and fine river-sand or well-washed bird-sand should be pre-
pared for the purpose of covering the bottoms of the different
aquaria. But those tanks which are intended to contain
interesting aquatic plants rather than animals ought to be
especially prepared for the reception of such subjects by the
placing of mud, loam, or anything else they may require,
beneath a layer of the gravel. The aquaria, however, which
are to receive various animals will need for the covering of
thetr bottoms only fine gravel or sand, for in such foundations
the very useful American weed (Anacharis alsinastrum) will
readily grow, and provide all that is required of vegetation
in the tank. The most convenient way of planting the
Anacharis in the small vessels of the cabinet aquarium is to
attach to each spray a small piece of lead and drop it in the
water. The spray thus weighted will sink rapidly to the
bottom of the vessel, and assume there its proper position.
By the help of a penholder or a small stick the lead may be
THE CABINET AQUARIUM. 33
easily pushed beneath the gravel, and thus hidden from
sight. The Anacharis, or any other suitable weed thus
treated, may be easily placed in or removed from any
aquarium without either trouble or disturbance. When this
method of planting is adopted, it is advisable to fill the
vessel with water before the introduction of the weed. As a
rule, the different tanks of the cabinet aquarium should be
supplied with water and stocked with weed before the animals
which they are to contain are bought or sought for.
CHAPTER IV.
COLLECTING EQUIPMENT.
course, it adds greatly to the interest of cabinet or
other aquaria if the various specimens can be ob-
tained personally from their native waters. Fish
generally should be carried from place to place in well-con-
structed bait-cans; and it is wise, if possible, for this purpose
to procure a can which has a: mechanical contrivance for
aérating the water within it. In such a can, fish may be trans-
ported great distances without injury. If, however, a can
without such a contrivance is used, it should be so made
that the water does not readily splash out of it, and the
splashing thus confined within the can goes a long way
towards aérating the water and supplying the fish with the
necessary oxygen. The can ought not to be more than three-
quarters full of water. Of the many very useful bait-cans
which have been from time to time invented, two may be
referred to here, viz., one recommended by the late Mr. Frank
Buckland in his “Natural History of British Fishes,”
and the other patented by Mr. Basil Field, and manu-
factured by Mr. H. Bowcombe, 2, Victoria-road, Holloway.
The former is a German invention, and though Mr. Buckland,
while speaking highly of this can, says that he engaged a
tinman to construct it, he omits to mention that workman’s
name and address. The latter can is shown in Fig. 33. The
perforated zine interior (D) is lifted whenever a fish is
COLLECTING EQUIPMENT. 35
required, and there is obviously no occasion to wet the hands
or warm the water by groping in it for the fish. In the
handle (A) is a small pair of bellows, worked by merely
pressing the knob B. The air passes down the small tube
(C), and bubbles up at the bottom of the can. When at the
riverside, the perforated interior can be sunk in the water.
The ordinary pike-fisher’s double live-bait kettle, which can
be got at any tackle-maker’s, is practically the same thing
minus the aérating bellows.
Fic. 33. PATENT AERATING BalT-CAN,
If the aquarium-keeper is unwilling to go to the expense of
buying a bait-can, he may easily make one for himself out of
an ordinary oblong tin coffee-canister. This is done by solder-
ing the lid of the canister in its place, cutting a new opening
in the side of the tin, and covering this opening with a small
flap-lid. A handle of strong and rather thick wire is fastened
on each side of the aperture by soldering a strip of tin over
each end of the wire handle after about lin. of it has been
bent at right angles. The lid is affixed by bending about lin.
of its end over a piece of straight wire cut to such a length
D2
36 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA.
that it projects a short distance on either side of the lid.
When the lid has been put into its place, it is fastened
there by soldering a strip of tin over both extremities of the
projecting wire. After this can has been painted with Brunswick
Black or with enamel, very few would be able to see that it
was originally a coffee-canister. I have found such a con-
trivance as this very convenient, and have carried fish in it
a distance of more than 200 miles by rail.
When the aquarium-keeper intends, during his hunting
expeditions for specimens for his aquaria, to include fish among
his other captives, it is a good plan for him to set out pro-
vided with a can in which he has placed one or two short,
wide-mouthed bottles. He will thus be able to sort his prizes
in such a way as will be conducive both to their safety and
their comfort. He ought, however, to prevent all movement
of the bottles within the can by cutting a piece of tin, zinc,
or wood in such a way that it will fit inside the can and
go over the mouths of the bottles. If the holes, which are cut
in whatever material is chosen, fit the tops of the bottles
exactly, the latter cannot move sufficiently to hurt the
fish or anything else in the can. Theclear glass jars which
have a lip but no neck, and which are sold containing jam,
are excellent vessels for placing within the bait-can, and also
upon the shelves of the cabinet aquarium.
Should it not be the intention to catch fish, however,
the can ought to be left behind, and several wide-
mouthed bottles taken in its place. These may be very
conveniently carried by placing, say, three of them side by
side in a narrow and light wooden box or wicker basket
made for the purpose. Good bottles for this purpose are
those made by Messrs. Clark. They are of a portable size,
and their tin covers, which screw on, are very useful
for preventing both the splashing of the water into the
basket or box, and the escape of the inmates. If the
receptacle for the bottles is a little deeper than they
are, there will be room above them for forceps, brush,
macintosh, magnifying-glass, and any other small appliance
which the aquarium-keeper may require.
to
COLLECTING EQUIPMENT. 37
Fig. 34 represents a very useful net for obtaining aquarium
specimens. The frame is of strong iron, which is screwed
into a stout wooden handle of about 6ft. in length. The
material for the net part may be of what is called mosquito-
net, or of that light canvas which is sold for straining milk.
The net should not be too deep, and be of the shape represented
in the engraving. It ought to be—at any rate, the fore part
of it—attached to the iron frame by means of small rings,
which prevent to a great extent the
wearing away of the net by rubbing
against the mud, stones, and bottom
of the water. Such a net as this,
which should be about 3ft. in cir-
cumference, with care will last for a
long time.
Another, a much smaller net
in every way, but made upon
the same plan, will be found very
convenient in addition to the one
just described.
Besides the nets, there should be
taken on the hunting expedition, a
long piece of strong cord, at the end
of which is fastened a kind of hook,
made somewhat after the fashion of
a tiny anchor. This will be useful
for pulling up from the bottoms
of ponds, &., masses of aquatic
plants, among the dripping and muddy tangles of which will
be found many very interesting creatures.
A very simple arrangement may be made for obtaining almost
any number of Entomostraca and other small aquatic animals. It
consists of a wide-mouthed bottle, a small metal funnel, and a small
indiarubber or leaden tube. The broad end of the funnel is covered
with a piece of very fine muslin—so fine that it will hardly allow
anything but the water itself to pass through it—and the
narrow part of the funnel is attached to one end of the tube.
As long as the funnel will go into the bottle, the broader
Fic. 34. COLLECTING-NET.
38 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA.
it is the better. The funnel should occupy the same position
in the bottle as represented in the illustration (Fig. 35). The
bottle ought to have a piece of strong string tied round its
neck, in order that it may be easily carried—even while water is
running through the siphon—from place to place. Another
bottle should be fastened to the end of a strong walking- or other
stick, so that water may be taken from the pond, ditch, or
stream, both near the edge and some distance from it, and
poured into the bottle possessing the siphon. As soon as
the latter is full of water, which is supposed to contain the
minute animals required, the siphon is made to run, and by
constant additions of water
is allowed to continue
doing so until sufficient
captives are taken.
When the muslin gets
choked—as it occasionally
will do—with mud and
the like, it may be cleared
by gently striking it once
or twice against the sur-
Fic. 35. BOTTLE AND SIPHON. face of the water within
the bottle. This operation
will necessitate, of course, the re-starting of the siphon. As the
Entomostraca are attracted to the surface of the water by the
shining of the sun, a fine rather than a dull day should be
, chosen for catching them.
Besides the cans, bottles, and nets, the collector of specimens
for the aquarium will find the following articles very useful
during his hunting expeditions: (1) A pair of forceps, (2) a
small brush of camel’s-hair, (3) a piece of macintosh, (4) magni-
fying-glass, (5) wading boots, (6) wire, string, and pocket-
knife. ;
The forceps are convenient for quickly and gently picking
certain animals off the weeds, or out of the mud brought to
the banks with the weeds, and placing them into the receptacles
prepared for them. Fig. 36 represents two kinds of forceps.
The steel forceps may be obtained, for a small sum of money, of
COLLECTING EQUIPMENT. 39
a surgical instrument maker. The wooden forceps can be easily
made at home by nailing two slender pieces of hard and elastic
wood to a small centre block. If the latter pair of forceps are
1ft. long, they may be used also for bringing up objects from the
bottom of the smaller aquaria.
The camel’s-hair brush is convenient for removing the more
delicate animals from the weeds or net, and placing them in
the bottles.
The piece of macintosh is useful for three different purposes :
for the collector to kneel on while he is examining the weeds
or mud which he has taken from the water; for receiving the
various animals which fall from those aquatic plants which
are shaken over it; and for wrapping up the weeds which are
—eee
—— SD
"
Fic. 36. WOODEN AND STEEL: FORCEPS.
intended to be carried away. It should not be much less
than lyd. square.
The magnifying-glass is often of great help in making a
close and careful examination of both plants and animals, and
in deciding what are to be left behind and what taken home.
Of course, it goes without saying that a pair of strong boots
are almost a sine qud non during the expeditions in search of
aquarium specimens; but those boots in which the collector
can wade in the water up to his knees, are not only a great
convenience, but are also often the means (by reason of
the greater range which they give) of making interesting
captures.
A piece of string, some thin wire, and a pocket-knife, should
never be left behind, for one or other of them is almost sure to
be required for something during the day.
40 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA.
If the aquarium-keeper be prudent, he will take care not to
overburden himself with bottles and nets, for nothing is so
likely to mar the pleasure of a hunting expedition as a long
walk home, after hard work, with more than one can con-
veniently carry.
I have more than once heard it said that one of the greatest
charms of English sport is that one never knows for certain
what is going to “get up.” This is, in a way, true of hunting
for aquarium specimens, for the collector is always wondering
what he will fish up next; and after he has begun to use his
nets in some well-stocked piece of water, he hardly knows when
to leave off, or when he has obtained enough prizes. At least,
such has generally been my own experience. There are often
in ponds, ditches, and streams, what may be called traps. These
traps consist of old boots, old hats, pieces of rag, and half-sunk
bonnet-boxes or newspapers; and if the collector will take the
trouble to examine such things, he will frequently be well
rewarded for his pains, for in them or under them a good
collection of many and various aquatic animals are often to be
found. It is, indeed, a good plan to purposely set these useful
traps.
I can easily remember that while I was a small boy I often
used to look forward to the time when I should be able to
possess one very large aquarium in which I could place all the
different aquatic animals I might procure; but I have long
since learnt by experience that it is impossible for the members
of such an interesting (to me) collection to live peaceably
together for any length of time—no, not even for one single
night. It is wise, therefore, for the collector to return home
from his hunting expedition before it be too late, or before he be
too tired to put his prizes into their respective dwelling-places.
Should he, however, be indisposed or unable at once to finally
assort his captives, he ought to transfer into shallow and well-
covered vessels those creatures which he cannot trust, either
for their own welfare or for the welfare of their comrades, to
remain in the collecting-bottles. The various animals and
plants can then be conveniently arranged on the following day.
There is a little net which may be cheaply and easily made,
COLLECTING EQUIPMENT. 41
and which I have found very useful for transferring aquatic
specimens from vessel to vessel. The net is constructed out of
one of the small wire baskets which are sold for the purpose
of hanging on to the ends of teapot-spouts, in order that they
may catch those tea-leaves which otherwise would fall into
the cups. The wire fastening which is made to go down the
spout of the teapot is taken off the basket, and a straight piece
of rather thin wire, about 16in. or 18in. long, is wound (at its
middle) once round the basket, just below the rim, in such a
way that the two ends when twisted together form a handle
of nearly 1ft.in length. The teapot-spout basket may be bought
at almost every ironmonger’s for 1d. or 13d.
There is hardly any part of the year which is altogether
unsuitable for excursions in search of aquatic animals or plants.
I have had successful days even when I have been obliged to
break the thin ice which was covering the surface of the water,
However, the summer-time is the best season of all for these
expeditions.
CHAPTER V.
MANAGEMENT OF THE AQUARIUM.
N aquarium in the formation of which cement of
any kind has been used, should stand filled with
water for ten days or a fortnight,'and the water be
changed several times during that period, before it is stocked.
The cement will thus have an opportunity of giving off anything
which would be likely to injure the inhabitants of the tank.
When the aquarium has been sufficiently seasoned in this way,
empty it, clean it, and put it into its permanent position, taking
care that it stands quite firm and is perfectly level in every
direction. After this has been satisfactorily arranged, some
sand should be taken from a river or running stream; but if
it cannot conveniently be procured from there, ordinary bird-
sand will do very well when it has been prepared in the following
manner: By means of a fine-meshed sieve all the larger stones
should be separated from the rest of the sand. As the sand
is riddled it should fall into a bucket of water. When a
sufficient quantity of sand has been obtained in this way, it
ought to be energetically stirred for several minutes with a
stick, and then the muddy water poured off. The pail should
now be filled with boiling water, in which the sand ought to
be thoroughly washed, and then the water emptied away.
When this operation has been repeated two or three times,
the sand will be ready for the aquarium. River-sand should
also undergo the same careful washing. This cleansing of
MANAGEMENT OF THE AQUARIUM. 43
the sand ought never to be neglected, for without it some
decaying matter, either vegetable or animal, will certainly be
present, and in time corrupt the water of the tank, and so
cause injury to its inmates.
This clean sand should now be placed in the aquarium to
a depth of from 2in. to 4in., according to the size of the tank
and the character of the plants which are to be introduced.
But if the aquarium is bell-shaped, all its lower portion may
with advantage be filled with sand until it reaches that part
of the vessel where the sides begin to be vertical. This will
both lessen the depth of water and increase the rooting-space
for vegetation. Over the sand a layer of some fine gravel
should be put, which also must be washed perfectly clean.
This gravel may be obtained from a river or stream, but that
which has been sifted from the bird-sand will do very well.
The gravel is chiefly for the purpose of preventing fish and
their comrades from turning up the sand and sediment, and
thus interfering with the clearness of the water. Charcoal
is sometimes buried in the sand—for it has the power to some
extent of counteracting putrefaction and preventing unpleasant
smells. Its presence, however, in the aquarium has its draw-
backs: if allowed to float in the water, it will look unsightly;
and if sunk in the sand, there will be a difficulty in renewing
it when its efficiency as a deodoriser has gone. A properly-
stocked aquarium needs no charcoal.
‘Among the occupants of an aquarium there will be some
which. will not care to remain in the water always; and for their
accommodation it will be advisable to erect a kind of rockwork,
the top of which ought to rise above the surface of the water.
This rockwork will also provide shade for the fish and the other
animals which delight in retirement. It can be bought all ready
for the aquarium; but often that which is offered for sale is
gaudily coloured, or is in other respects unsuitable. Sometimes
it will be found made in the shape of ruins of various kinds.
Of course such rockwork is altogether out of place in a well-
arranged tank, for no one with any taste at all would care to see
a fish, for instance, swimming through the window of a house,
or a triton wriggling through the loophole of a castle.
44 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA.
Suitable rockwork can easily be constructed. It should be
of small dimensions rather than the reverse, as long as it will
answer its purpose; for much rockwork takes up valuable space,
and does not look well in an aquarium. Care ought to be taken
to so arrange it that, while it will afford the necessary shade to
the occupants of the tank, it will not at the same time provide
them with retreats into which they can retire altogether from
their owner’s sight; for, if the animals are able to completely
hide themselves, it is very possible that, should they die, their
deaths will be undiscovered until the corrupting bodies have
done irreparable damage to the whole aquarium.
Rockwork may be made of pumice-stone, coke, melted glass,
mica-schist, or other material of a like kind. If the desired
shape and size cannot be found in one single piece, two or three
pieces may be joined together by means of Portland cement,
always remembering that this cement, after it has well set,
should be soaked for some days in water before it is placed in its
permanent position in the aquarium. Pieces of pumice-stone
or coke may be united by means of wooden rivets, each rivet
running into the adjoining parts a couple of inches, the holes
for which can easily: be made with an ordinary awl. Before
coke is put in the tank it should be dipped into some liquid
Portland cement of about the consistency of ordinary whitewash,
keeping the mixture well stirred during the process.
An aquarium like Fig. 9 may have rockwork so arranged
as to represent a cave, out of which and into which the fish
and other animals seem continually to go and come. To effect
this arrangement it will be necessary to get a piece of looking-
glass about 5in. square, more or less according to the size of
the tank. Paint the back of this two or three times with
sealing-wax varnish, japan ‘black, or anything else which will
protect it from the action of the water; then, when this is dry,
place the aquarium with the glass front upwards, and cover
its back, inside, with cement No.2. Now take the looking-glass
and fix it firmly in the centre of the back of the tank, and
around it arrange mica-schist in such a way that the glass will
represent the mouth of a cave. All the back should be covered
with the stone. This plan, however, is more appropriate for
MANAGEMENT OF THE AQUARIUM. 45
a marine than for a fresh-water aquarium. Instead of rockwork,
a small island may be constructed for the newts; and upon the
island a fern or some semi-aquatic plant can be grown.
All plants should be put in their places before the aquarium
is filled with water. Those which do not require much rooting-
space may be planted in the sand and gravel at the bottom of
the tank; but those which need greater depth can be set in
small flower-pots. These pots can either be hidden by means
of a careful arrangement of rockwork, or they themselves may
be made to resemble it by covering their sides with small pieces
of coke, fastened into position with Portland cement. The
whole should be then dipped as before described. There is
one great advantage in putting plants into pots, inasmuch
that, should occasion require, the aquarium can be emptied
without materially interfering with their growth. But wherever
plants are placed, whether in pots or at the bottom of the tank,
the sand above their roots should be covered with plenty of
gravel, as it tends to make the setting firm and permanent.
The different aquatic plants suitable for freshwater aquaria
will be described in another chapter.
In an aquarium that is properly arranged and cared for, the
water should seldom or never need changing. Its character,
therefore, is a matter of much importance. The best water for
the purpose is that from a river; next, that from a large and
very clear pond; next, very clean rain-water; next, that from
the “tap”; and last of all, and to be avoided if possible, hard
water from the well, When the aquarium has been made quite
clean, its glass has been well polished, the sand and the gravel,
in the proper proportion, at its bottom have been perfectly
washed, the plants have been put in their places, and the
rockwork has been placed in position, then—and not till then—
should the water be introduced.
There is really only one satisfactory way, so far as I know,
of filling an aquarium with water, and that is by means of a
very slender siphon. A siphon of large diameter is worse
than useless for this purpose; but should the proper-sized
siphon not be conveniently at hand, the water may be intro-
duced in one of the following ways:
46 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA.
1. Pour it very slowly and carefully, by means of a slender-
spouted can, against the sides of the tank.
2. Place a jug in the centre of the aquarium, taking care
that it does not stand on any plant, and pour the water
gently into it until the tank is full; then remove the pitcher
without emptying it.
3. Put the aquarium, if not too large, under a “supply”
tap, and regulate the latter so that it allows the water to drip
slowly upon a sponge placed on the gravel of the former.
The sponge, while being taken out, should not be squeezed.
4, Fill the tank by the help of a watering-can which has a
very fine rose.
Fic. 37. CORRECT METHOD OF FILLING AN AQUARIUM.
But however carefully the water is introduced into the
aquarium in any one of the above four ways, it will be found
not to be perfectly clear. A small siphon only will attain
that much-desired end. If one siphon does not work quickly
enough, two or three may be used at the same time. A slender
india-rubber tube of the necessary length, not thicker than
the stem of an ordinary clay pipe, will make the siphon. The
smaller the tubing in its diameter, the more satisfactorily wil]
it do its work (Fig. 37). The lower end of the siphon should
rest on the gravel of the aquarium or upon the rockwork.
MANAGEMENT OF THE AQUARIUM. 47
When the aquarium has been properly filled in the way
just described, it is a good plan, if patience will allow, to
postpone the introduction of any animals for at least ten
days or a fortnight—the longer the better. During this time
the plants ought to commence to grow and give off oxygen.
At first only a few occupants should be introduced—say, a
newt, three or four small fish, and a few snails—and if these
do well, one or two more may be added, and so on. When the
plants are fairly established, the aquarium will support much
more life than when they are only just beginning to grow.
If the fish swim near the surface of the water tails downwards
and mouths upwards, there are too many in the tank, and
unless some are speedily removed, many will die. There should
always be too few inmates in an aquarium rather than too
many; but if the tank is properly arranged, it is. really sur-
prising how much animal life it will support. For instance,
I have at the time of writing in a bell-glass aquarium, 19in.
in diameter, one gold-fish, one silver-fish, one carp, about a
dozen snails (Planorbis corneus), and at the least forty small
minnows (Cyprinus phoxinus). All these fish are seemingly
in perfect health, and have been so for about ten months.
The plants in this aquarium are Vallisneria spiralis and the
Cape Fragrant Water Lily (Aponogeton distachyon).
The water of an aquarium that is properly balanced and cared
for, should never require changing, as a rule; but circumstances
do occasionally arise in which it is necessary to empty the tank.
For instance, the water may have become corrupted by an un-
discovered dead body; the plants may need renewing, or the
rockwork re-arranging; perhaps the aquarium has sprung a
leak, or it is necessary to remove it to some other position.
Any one of these circumstances would require the emptying
away of the water. This can easily be done by means of a piece
of india-rubber tubing, of about 3in. in diameter, used as a
siphon (Fig. 38.) Before the commencement of the withdrawal
of the water, as many of the fish and other inhabitants of the
aquarium as possible should be transferred elsewhere. How-
ever, it is not probable that all will be caught, for some
will hide themselves in the weeds or under the rockwork; and to
48 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA.
prevent their being sucked up, the end of the siphon which is
to go in the aquarium should be covered with a piece of mosquito
net or similar material.
The position of an aquarium is an important matter, for very
much depends upon the regulation of the light. Light is
necessary to the growth of the plants, and to the production
of oxygen. But too much light will encourage the development
of the freshwater Alge commonly called Conferva. This con-
Fic. 38. METHOD OF EMPTYING AN AQUARIUM.
ferva is a vegetable growth which appears upon the inside of
the glass of the aquarium, depriving it of its transparency. It
grows also upon the plants, interfering with their welfare,
and it will quickly spread, if unchecked, throughout the
water, making it thick, green, and unsightly. Care is there-
fore necessary to guard against both too much, and too little
light. The latter is much to be preferred to the former. The
rays of the sun should never fall directly upon an aquarium,
MANAGEMENT OF THE AQUARIUM. 49
for, if they do, not only will the growth of the conferva be
encouraged, but the temperature of the water will quickly rise
too high. The higher the temperature of the water, the fewer
animals will it be able to contain; besides which, water
in this condition very readily becomes impure. The average
temperature of an aquarium ought to be about 50deg., and, if
possible, it should never be allowed to vary more than 10deg.
either way. It may be reduced by covering the tank with a
woollen cloth, the lower end of which is standing in some
'"-water.
As a rule, aquaria are placed near a window—a position con-
ducive to the growth of the plants, but not to the happiness
of the fish. Indeed, it is positively cruel to put fish in an all-
glass aquarium and allow the sun to shine upon it during the
hottest part of the day. Since an aquarium, however, will most
likely be put close to a window, let it be one facing the north
if possible. An eastern aspect is not at all unsuitable, but it
will be advisable to cover the tank at night, so that it will not
get the early morning sun.
There are many ways of shading aquaria so that they shall
not be unduly influenced by light and sun. If the aquarium is
round, a sheet of green paper or a piece of American cloth,
hung by means of small wire hooks to the edge of the glass,
will answer the purpose. This can easily be removed for the
inspection of the contents of the aquarium. Of course, such a
screen cannot be called ornamental, but it is effective. Flowers
or ferns placed between the aquarium and the window will
supply not a little shade. If the tank is rectangular, and all-
four sides made of glass, the same kind of shading will do, or
cardboard may be cut to exactly fit three of the sides, instead,
A little protection from too much light and sun may be obtained
by having three of the sides made of ground-glass, or by
covering these sides (externally, of course), with whitening
dabbed on with a sponge, in imitation of ground-glass; or the
conferves may be allowed to grow upon the three sides, and the
fourth kept clear by using, when necessary, a piece of flannel
tied to the end of a short cane. A good piece of looking-glass,
cut the exact length and depth of the aquarium, and placed
E
50 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA.
behind it, will give both shade and effect. The back of the
mirror must, in some way or other, be protected from the action
of the sun.
It has been already mentioned that the water of an aquarium
should obtain the necessary oxygen, not only directly from
the atmosphere above it, but also from the vegetation growing
within it; but there are circumstances under which artificial
means of aération should be resorted to. For instance, the
tank may be overstocked with fish, and their owner, unwisely,
be reluctant to part with any of them; or the temperature of
the water, from some cause or other, may suddenly have risen
too high. I think, therefore, that a short description of some
of the instruments by which the water of an aquarium may be
artificially aérated, will not be out of place here.
A fountain is very useful for this purpose, and is also, if
properly arranged, ornamental. Fig. 39 represents one which
may be easily and inexpensively constructed. A is. a tank,
made of wood, slate, or zinc; but if- made of the last-named
material, its interior should be protected from the action of
the water by tar-paint, or something of the like kind. This
tank has a spout and a tap at the bottom of one end. It is
placed upon the top of a bookcase or some other convenient
elevation, and should be hidden there if possible. B is a deal
table, over which there is a cover reaching down to the floor
of the room. C is an easily-lifted can, capable of holding
about three gallons of water. D is a leaden or indiarubber
tube, joined at the upper end to the spout of the tank A, and
at the lower to E, which is a leaden pipe running under the
table and through its centre, and through that of the bottom
of the aquarium. The hole in the tank to receive E should
be rather larger than the pipe. When the pipe has been
inserted into the hole, it can be fastened in its place by
means of little wooden wedges, and all the interstices left
between the wedges, the pipe, and the bottom of the tank,
should be tightly filled up with red and white lead. F is a
leaden waste-pipe, the lower end of which runs just through
the table in order that it may be inserted into the indiarubber
tubing (H), which will connect it with the can (C). F is fixed
MANAGEMENT OF THE AQUARIUM. 51
in the bottom of the aquarium in the same way as E has
been; its length within the tank will of course regulate the
ii
yet
it
Fic. 39. AQUARIUM CONTAINING AN EASILY-ARRANGED FOUNTAIN.
height of the water there. If the aquarium is made of slate,
there may be an overflow-pipe at G (instead of F), fixed in
E2
52 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA.
the side of the tank as high as the water is intended to rise.
Should there be an objection to cut the table and its cover,
the longer part of the pipe (E) can be fastened by means of
brackets to the bottom of the aquarium instead of the inside
of the top of the table; and the tubing (H) which is affixed
to F may run round the farther edge of the table, and so into
the can (C) beneath it. H should be long enough to reach
the bottom of the can (C), and so the noise of trickling water
will be prevented. The tubing (D) might be brought quite
down to the floor, and thence up under the table to its con-
nection with E, whether the latter is fastened to the bottom
of the aquarium or not. However, there should be an endeavour
to hide from sight the tank, the tubing, and the overflow-can.’
There are various ways of forming the jet (I). The easiest,
perhaps, is to cut the end of the pipe off square with a pair
of cutting pincers (this will press the edges of the pipe closely
together); then, with a point of a pin, make the hole or holes
required. The object is to procure the flowing upward of the
least amount of water with the greatest effect. No more water
should be placed in the tank (A) than the can (C) is able to
hold, or some time or other there is certain to be a flood
in the room. The top of the overflow-pipe (F) should be pro-
tected with a little cap made of finely-perforated zinc; this
will prevent insects and pieces of weed being sucked down,
and so causing death and stoppage.
The pipes within the aquarium should be hidden by well-
arranged rockwork. A good way to do this is to get a piece
of slate about 3in. or 4in. wide, and long enough, when standing
on the bottom of the tank touching the front glass, to reach
just above the jet (I). It should rest against the overflow-pipe
and not on the fountain, or it will interfere with the upward
flow of the water; and for this purpose the former might be bent
a little to the front. Care should: be taken that the jet points
perfectly upright. Pieces of coke can be fastened by means
of Portland cement to the slate just mentioned. All one
side should be covered with the coke, and an inch or so from
each edge of the other side ; the edges also being hidden in the
same way. The whole ought then to be dipped in some liquid
MANAGEMENT OF THE AQUARIUM. 53
Portland cement of the consistency of cream, and then left to
dry. When it is quite dry, it must be well soaked before it is
put in the aquarium. In constructing the above rockwork, and
anything else of the kind, care should of course be taken that
all formality of arrangement is avoided. This movable rock-
work is very convenient in case a missing animal has to be
searched for. Rockwork could be built against the pipes by
the help of cement with perhaps better effect, but then it must
be a fixture.
Such a fountain contrivance as this just described I have
found a great success, and very little trouble. All that is
required is to take the can (C) full of the overflow water
every morning, empty it, while standing on a chair, into
the tank (A), and return the can to its place under the table.
If the fountain is cared for by a lady, the can (C) should be
smaller, and perhaps emptied twice a day instead of once.
Instead of having the supply tank in the room, the
fountain may be connected by means of a leaden siphon to
the cistern at the top of the house. I have at present a fountain
in an aquarium, worked by a siphon connected with an outside
cistern, which is a great success, and when once started is no
trouble at all. The two pipes — overflow and supply — run
through one hole at the bottom of the window-sash. The
aquarium, its slate framework covered with cork, stands on the
sill of a staircase window, making an interesting ornament.
A syringe is a useful instrument for supplying oxygen arti-
ficially to the water of an aquarium. It may be of glass, or
such a one as is commonly found in a greenhouse, and con-
structed of metal. To use the syringe, it must first be filled
with water from the tank, and then, being held at a good height,
made forcibly to return the water. This operation should be
repeated several times.
A pair of ordinary kitchen bellows will also do for the purpose
of aération, but it is clumsy and rather tiring to work. A
smaller and more suitable pair may be generally bought at a
toy-shop, or can easily be made at home. The wood for the
construction of the bellows should be about 3in. thick, so that
it will not break when they are worked with the necessary force,
54 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA.
and will not split when the leather or American cloth is being
nailed to its edge. Fig. 40 will show how such bellows may be
made to work with a spring instead of the ordinary handles. A,
the bellows ready for use, to the nozzle of which (j) is attached
a prepared indiarubber tube (h); B, the lower side, to which
the spring (d) is fastened; C, the upper side, having a round hole
(f) not more than 3in. in diameter. To this hole inside is nailed
the usual leather trap-door (i) which opens to receive the air and
closes to expel it through the nozzle of the bellows. The nozzle
ere &
fof ft
Fic. 40. BELLOWS FOR AERATING THE WATER OF AN AQUARIUM
should be about tin. in diameter, and made of some metal;
a piece of small gas-piping will do. It is fixed in the centre of
a slip of hard wood, 4in. thick, and this is screwed across the
narrow end of B at e. The spring is made by twisting a piece
of elastic and stiff wire round the end of a broomstick or some-
thing of a like nature, and when made is fastened in the centre
of the broad part of Batd. The two sides are joined together
by nailing to their edges a piece of leather or American cloth,
MANAGEMENT OF THE AQUARIUM. 55
cut the desired shape (for which see A). The little nails or
upholstering pins are placed very closely together, so that the
bellows are made perfectly air-tight; and the indiarubber
tubing should be just large enough to fix securely over the
end of the nozzle (j). The other end of the tubing must be
stopped with a cork, which should be tied firmly in its place.
At the cork end of the tubing there are ten or fifteen little holes,
which have been made with a strong pin, and so arranged that
they are all point upwards when the tubing is at the bottom of
the tank, and the bellows are resting upon the stand or table
which the aquarium is on. When the instrument is com-
pleted and put in the position just described, press the bellows
forcibly with one hand, and immediately several small bubbles
of air will be seen to rise in the water and ascend to its surface.
This contrivance will be found very useful, not only for aérating
an aquarium, but also for supplying air to fish which are being
taken a long distance by rail or by road.
Fig. 41 represents a useful instrument for aérating the water
of an aquarium. It isa small pump or syringe made of india-
rubber, and can be bought for a few shillings. It can also be
made at home by inserting two pieces of small indiarubber
tubing into opposite sides of an indiarubber ball. I have found
that sound uncovered tennis-balls will answer the purpose. The
pieces of tubing, one longer than the other (Fig. 41), are put
into holes just large enough to receive them. These holes can
be made by means of a hot piece of thick wire. The tubing and
the ball are firmly united by covering the junction (Fig. 37, a)
of the two several times with pure indiarubber, this having been
dissolved in bisulphide of carbon or chloroform. The carbon
or chloroform soon evaporates, and leaves the indiarubber dry
and firm. 3,000 times a minute,” but
e , “a another writer records that
At the sirene proves the vibra-
Gs He-Me ee tions to be 15,000 a second!
(CuLEx CILIARIS). The Chironomide, or Midges,
are chiefly distinguished from
gnats by their proboscis, which, instead of being long and
horny, is short and fleshy. They are very gnat-like in
appearance. Their antenne are long and plumed, especially
those of the males. The antenna is so plumed as to be of
a triangular shape. The “bite” of a Midge is not nearly so
painful as that of a gnat; and many of the Midges are
altogether harmless. These insects, like the gnats, spend the
larval and pupal portion of their lives in the water.
The members of the genus Corethra are the most gnat-like
of all the Midges. One species, C. plumicornis, is very
common, and its larva is one of the most interesting and
decidedly the most extraordinary of all aquatic larve. This
creature is sometimes called the “Phantom Larva” or the
“Glass Larva.” It well earns such names, for it is so trans-
parent that there is no little difficulty in seeing it in the water;
and through the translucent sides of the animal the greater
portion of its internal organisation is plainly visible. Its
specific gravity seems to equal that of the water, so that,
without any effort at all, it can remain at the top, middle, or
bottom of the water in which it lives, as it thinks fit. This
interesting larva is slightly more than 3in. long, about jin.
deep, and less than this broad. It gradually tapers towards
the tail. Its head has somewhat the appearance of a rabbit’s
LARVZ OF WATER-FLIES. 265
head when it has been skinned. Fig. 162 gives some idea of
this curious larva to those who do not know it. At the
extremity of the head there are two antenna-like members
(a), each of which is terminated with four spines, or claws.
The animal is supposed to use these claws in turning over the
mud in search of food; but though I have kept a great many
of these larve for a long time, and watched them closely, I
have never seen them so hunt. Perhaps it is because they
have always been provided with plenty of the insects upon
which they feed. Next to the antenne there is a cluster of
ten needle-like bristles, or lancets (b), and just behind these
bristles there are two little members somewhat like semi-
circular saws. Posterior to these “saws” is a curious upper
lip, or labrum, furnished with a kind of brush-like arrange-
ment (c). The eye (d) is large and black. In the upper
Fig. 162. LARVA OF CORETHRA PLUMICORNIS (MUCH ENLARGED).
part of the deepest portion of the body there are two air-
sacs (e). Some authorities consider that these air-sacs are
very closely connected with the respiratory organs, but others
look upon them just simply as “floats.” The csophagus, or
gullet (f), leads into a curious and powerful gizzard (n), the
use of which can be readily understood when one remembers
that this larva, as a rule, feeds upon the smaller fresh-water
crustacea, The gizzard is joined to the stomach (g) by a very
narrow channel. The stomach may be seen by the naked
eye through the very transparent sides of the creature, and
its contents can be pretty plainly observed with the help of
the microscope. The stomach is joined to the colon (%) by
four very slender tubes or ducts. Between the stomach and
the colon there are two posterior air-sacs (h), which evidently
perform the same functions as the anterior ones. There is a
266 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA.
curious fan (j) composed of delicately-plumed bristles attached
to the under-part of the last segment of the body. With the
help of this fan the larva forces and steers its way through
the water. It is also connected, so it is supposed, with the
tracheal system. Posterior to this organ there are two curious
and much-curved hooks (k), the use of which I do not know.
Dr. Carrington, in his very interesting article upon this
larva in Science Gossip, for April, 1868, suggests that they
are utilised during the creature’s transformation. Several of
these larve have become pupe, and the pupe have changed
into perfect Midges, while in my possession; but I have never
noticed the hooks made use of in any way. J represents four
bronchial leaflets, and above them there are four more plumed
bristles (m). Upon different parts of the body of the creature
there are very curious hairs, which are simple at their root,
but afterwards become compound. Sometimes as many as
seven or eight branches spring from a single stem. The
organs of respiration of this larva are very difficult to trace,
owing to their minuteness; but the appendages at the extremity
of the creature’s body are so formed and so connected with
the tracheal system that the animal, unlike most of the larve
of the Diptera, seems to have no need of coming to the sur-
face of the water for air.
I have given rather a long description of this larva, because
of the unusually curious and interesting formation of its body,
and I am sure that if anyone who does not know the animal
will examine it carefully, he will be amply rewarded for his
pains. A little trouble will certainly be required, for
though the creature is so strangely transparent, it is by no
means easy to investigate closely, owing to its restlessness.
Frequently when one sees it conveniently near to the side of
the vessel in which it is confined, and just as the magnifying-
glass has been placed in position, the creature, with a power-
ful stroke of the extremity of its body, will shoot out of focus.
A good plan, to simplify the examination, is to put two or
three of the larve in a very clear glass bottle, of not more
than lin. and not less than 3in. in diameter. One animal at
least will be almost certain to be in the right position for the
LARVE OF WATER-FLIES. 267
magnifying-glass. Under the microscope, the creature will be
even more interesting, if possible, than when seen at liberty
in the water through the magnifying-glass, though its con-
dition will not, of course, be natural.
The larva has a curious habit of suddenly turning itself, so
that its head and tail change places. Sometimes, instead of
making only half a turn, it will make the whole turn, so
quickly that the eye can scarcely follow it, as if in obedience
to the drill-sergeant’s command, “As you were!” In summer
these larve may be taken from ponds of clear water in great
numbers. Too many must not-be kept in the same vessel:
three or four in one which will hold about a quart of
water will be quite sufficient. If such a vessel is provided
with some healthy aquatic plant, and a quantity of water-
fleas and the like, the phantom larve will give no trouble
whatever. The Crustacea and their offspring will always provide
them with plenty of suitable food. These larve often live
for a long time before they become pupe. I have had some
for eight months. During that time only a very small pro-
portion of those I first captured developed into the perfect
Midge. But others which I had taken earlier in the year
(about June) entered the imago condition much quicker.
The pupa of Corethra plumicornis is somewhat like that of
the gnat. The change from the larva to the pupa is very
great indeed. Professor Rymer Jones, in reference to this
change, says that “the air-sacs, situated both in the thoracic
region and in the hinder portion, burst and unfold themselves
into an elaborate tracheal system, and a pair of ear-shaped
tubes, of which not the slightest trace could hitherto be
discerned, make their appearance upon the dorsal aspect of
the thorax; two long tracheez seem to be thus simultaneously
produced, occupying the two sides of the body, and constituting
the main trunks, from which large branches are given off
to supply—in front the head, the eyes, and the nascent limbs;
while posteriorly they spread over the now conspicuous ovaries,
and terminate by ramifying largely through the thin lamelle
(plates) that constitute the “caudal appendages.” The vessels
in which the larve and pupe of OCorethra plumicornis are
268 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA.
confined should be covered with glass, so that the insects,
when they become perfect, shall not escape before they have
been seen and examined. If a piece of flat wood is allowed
to float upon the surface of the water, the imago will be sure
of finding a resting place when it has
emerged from the pupal envelope. The
perfect insect (Fig. 163) is about Hin.
long, and of a brown colour. The
antenne are lighter in colour, the plumes
on those of the male being almost white.
Both the wings and the plumed antenne
look unusually beautiful under the micro-
scope. There are two dark stripes upon
Fig. 163. MALE MIDGE, : ie
Coretura pLuMI- the sides of the thorax. The inner edges
CORNIGIENTARGEDE: of thie wings are fringed.
The genus Chironomus includes about
195 British species, of which C. plumosus is by far the
commonest. The larva of this species is the “ Bloodworm”
of anglers, and the “Red Wriggler” of the schoolboy.
These larve can be found in stagnant water almost anywhere;
e.g., in rain-water tubs, ponds, ditches, pools, and the like.
The life-history of these insects is very similar to that of
the gnat already mentioned. These larve are much more
worm-like than those of the gnat. They are of a blood-red
colour. The pupa has five long hairy bronchial appendages
on each side of its large thorax. The perfect insect is about
3in. long, and of a light yellowish colour. There are three
dark bands on its thorax.
One of the commonest species of the family Stratiomyide
is the beautiful fly known as the Stratiomys chameleon. The
female insect deposits her eggs upon the under-side of a
broad-leafed aquatic plant—generally the Water Plantain
(Alisma Plantago). The eggs are arranged so as to overlap
each other, like the slates on the roof a house. The larve
which are hatched from these eggs are very curious and
interesting. They are elongated in shape, tapering much
towards the tail; and they have small heads. At the narrower
end of the body there is an extremely interesting breathing
LARVE OF WATER-FLIES. 269
apparatus, which partly consists of thirty feathery hairs
surrounding a small orifice connected with the tracheal system.
These hairs can be opened and closed at the will of the
animal. While expanded they are very star-like. When
the creature wishes to take in a fresh supply of air, it ascends
to the surface of the water by means of a wriggling motion,
and there it spreads out its bronchial plumes: these act not
only as a float to support the animal in the water, head
downwards, but are also so constructed as to repel the water
and to admit the air into the orifice which they surround.
As soon as the larva has obtained sufficient air, it folds the
plumes, which then inclose a small globule of air, and
this is carried by the animal to the bottom of the water.
This larva obtains its food in the same way as does that of
the gnat. A current of water, owing to the formation and
the movements of parts of the head, is made to set in towards
the head, carrying with it the minute animals and particles
of matter which form the creature’s food. The pupalhood
of this animal is passed within the larval skin. The pupa
only occupies the broader and anterior portion of this envelope,
and in it floats until it changes into the perfect insect. The
imago is a little more than in. long, and it has a broad flat
brassy-black body marked with yellow.
An insect belonging to the family Syrphide, known as
the Drone-fly (Hristalis tenaz), has a very curious larva;
or, rather, is a very curious creature during its larval state.
This larva is called the “rat-tailed larva,” and is very common
in stagnant water. The late Rev. J. G. Wood, speaking of
these larve, says: “The largest assemblage of these creatures
that I ever saw was in Wiltshire. A tub had been sunk
in the ground for the reception of water, and had gradually
become half-filled with dead leaves and other débris, which
decomposed into soft mud. This mud was so closely packed
with the larve of the Drone-fly that the water was quite
choked with them.” This larva is shaped somewhat like a.
“maggot,” with a long tail. The tail is composed of two
segments, one of which fits inside the other after the manner
of the joints of a telescope. The respiratory organs pass
270 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA.
through this curious tail, and the creature is thus able to
breathe atmospheric air while lying at the bottom of very
shallow water. When the larva is about to enter the nymphal
state, it buries itself in the ground, and becomes a pupa
while still within its larval envelope. The perfect insect
may be often seen flying about gardens and the like. It is
a little more than 4in. long, is black and hairy, and is
very active in its movements.
There are, of course, many other aquatic larve and pups,
besides those I have mentioned in this chapter, which are
suitable for and very interesting in the aquarium; but I
hope I have said sufficient to give a novice in aquarium
matters some idea what kind of creatures to look for, and
how to keep them in a manner satisfactory both to the captor
and the captives when found.
CHAPTER XIV.
WATER-SPIDERS AND WATER-WORMS.
HE Water-spider (Argyroneta aquatica) is an ex-
ceedingly interesting inmate of the tank: its
intelligence and ingenuity have long made it a
great favourite with aquarium-keepers. It is about 4in. long,
and is therefore rather a large spider. Its abdomen is ovate
in shape, and of an olive-brown colour, and the rest of its
body, including the legs, is a dark reddish-brown. Its first
and last pairs of legs are of greater length than the other
two pairs. The females of most spiders are larger than the
males, but in regard to the Argyroneta the reverse is the
case. Water-spiders may be found in the ponds and ditches
of many parts of England, especially in those of Cambridge-
shire and Norfolk; but when the aquarium-keeper is not
fortunate enough to be able to catch them in his own neigh-
bourhood, he can always buy them in London at prices
ranging from 3d. to 1s. each. The abdomen of the Water-
spiders is covered with a kind of hair, which repels the water
and prevents the creature from getting wet. Sometimes,
however, when these animals are being carried in water from
the pond in which they have been taken or from the shop
where they have been bought, to their new home (the
aquarium), they will be found at the end of their journey to
be nearly if not quite drowned. The splashing of the water
in the can in which they have travelled has so thoroughly
272 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA.
saturated the hairs which cover the abdomen that they (the
hairs) can no longer do their duty in connection with the
respiratory organs. When.a spider is found in this condition,
it should be placed upon some blotting-paper and under a
tumbler until it is perfectly dry. As a healthy spider goes
beneath the surface of the water, the latter part of its body
looks as if covered with silver, owing to the air which has
become entangled among the abdominal hairs.
Though these spiders can live upon land, they spend the
greater portion of their time under water, where they con-
struct most ingenious and curious homes, or nests. It is quite
an interesting sight to watch one of these very intelligent
creatures make its nest. First of all, it begins by weaving
a web between the branches of an aquatic plant, or between
a stone and one side of the vessel in which it is confined, or
in some similar position. When the web is completed, the
Argyroneta ascends to the surface of the water, and protrudes
above it the extremity of its abdomen, and, with a jerky
movement, obtains a bubble of air, which it holds between
the latter part of its body and its crossed hindermost legs.
The spider then descends with the bubble of air, and
discharges it within the web which it has woven. In this
way many other bubbles of air are brought beneath the
surface of the water and placed inside the web, which, after
a time, owing to the accumulation of air within it, assumes
the shape and often the size of a lady’s thimble (see Fig. 164,
in which, for the sake of clearness, the nest is shown as being
above the water). In making these journeys for air, the spider
climbs up and down a thread which it has stretched between
the nest and the surface of the water. The journeys are
long or short, according to the depth at which the Argyroneta
constructs its nest; for they are sometimes placed quite
close to the surface of the water, occasionally very near to
its bottom, but more frequently midway between these two
positions. In one of these subaqueous homes the Argyroneta
spends the greater part of the winter. I have had several
spiders which have remained in their nests under water for
three or four months, without either moving or taking food.
WATER SPIDERS AND WATER-WORMS. 273 |
When the female Argyroneta wishes to lay her eggs, she
either enlarges her old nest or builds an entirely new one.
The enlargement is effected by spinning an addition of web
to its lower part, which she fills or inflates with air as soon
as it is completed. The male Spider often makes a new nest
for himself near to the one which his lady-love has constructed
or enlarged for her eggs. The eggs are enveloped in a
kind of cocoon, which is fastened to the inside of the nest.
The young Spiders appear, according to the temperature of
the water, in about a fortnight. Almost directly they leave
the nest in which they have been born, they begin to construct
Fig. 164. WATER-SPIDER (ARGYRONETA AQUATICA) AND NEST.
small homes of web and air for themselves. Water-spiders
feed either upon terrestrial or aquatic animals; and for the
former they often leave the water. The Argyronete while in
confinement may be provided with house-flies and small
aquatic insects. Their appetites, however, are very uncertain:
sometimes they will eagerly seize flies which have been thrown
to them, and drag them within their nests, soon to turn them
out again, sucked dry of all their juices; at other times they
will disregard all food, however tempting it may be. I am
sorry to say that these intelligent little creatures are occasion-
ally guilty of cannibalism. More than once I have noticed
that when several of them have been confined in the same
carefully-covered aquarium, their numbers have gradually
T
274 FRESH-WATER AQUARIA.
diminished, until only one or two of them have been left.
One sex is not more guilty than the other of this un-
natural practice.
Vallisneria spiralis is about the most suitable plant to
place in an aquarium which is to contain these Spiders. If
possible, there should be no other animals associated with the
Argyronete, except those which are intended for their food.
A large snail is very likely to disturb the subaqueous nests and
set free the air which they contain; while a fish would be
greatly tempted to devour a spider. If the small tank which
is set apart for the Argyronete is properly situated in regard
to light, little or no conferve will interfere with the clearness
of either the glass or the water; and the interesting habits
of these animals cannot, of course, be satisfactorily watched
unless both the glass and the water are perfectly transparent.
This transparency is easily maintained. For example, the
water of the aquarium in which I had some Spiders was not
changed for nearly, if not quite, a year, and it seemed to be
just as clear then as it was upon the day I first introduced
it. This aquarium was covered with glass in such a way that
air could be freely admitted, and it was placed about 6ft.
from a window which faced due east. In this position the
light was quite good enough to allow all the movements of
the Spiders to be seen, and not sufficiently strong to cause
the growth of the sight-impeding conferve. Other aquaria
were in the same position, and all were as perfectly clear as
this one, and gave little or no trouble. These circumstances
are mentioned here in order that novices in aquarium matters
may not think that it requires any skill to preserve the
water of small portable tanks in a perfectly clear and bright
condition.