City of Cambridge SMassachusetts niver sity Library | NAC 6827 "C126H35 The WTA 4 024 413 Streets of Cambridge AN ACOOUNT OF THEIR ORIGIN AND HISTORY By LEWIS M. HASTINGS, City Engineer FEBRUARY, 1921 _ PRINTED FOR THE DEPARTMENT UNDER THE DIRECTION ee OF THE CITY CLERK City of Cambridge Massachusetts = aes The Streets of Cambridge AN ACCOUNT OF THEIR ORIGIN AND HISTORY By LEWIS M. HASTINGS, City Engineer FEBRUARY, 1921 PUBLISHED BY ORDER OF THE CITY COUNCIL UNDER THE DIRECTION OF THE CITY CLERK, iiccas;ls MAG R27 ce eee HES ATLANTIC PRINTING CO, 201 South St., Boston 65 Austin St., Cambridge THE STREETS OF CAMBRIDGE SOME ACCOUNT OF THEIR ORIGIN AND HISTORY INTRODUCTION One of the first and most fundamental needs of a civilized com- munity is adequate and convenient means of communication by public highways or roads. For this reason, the history of its growth and development is intimately connected with the story of its streets and ways. Indeed, the importance and value of roads has long been recognized by think- ing men, not simply as a ready means of getting somewhere, but, far beyond that, as a potent factor in raising the standard of social life and culture in any community. Lord Bacon, more than three centuries ago, wrote that there are three things necessary for a nation’s prosperity—a fertile soil, busy work shops, and means for the easy transportation of persons and commodities from one place to another. Thomas B. Macaulay, the noted English writer and historian, writ- ing about 1850 of the invention of the alphabet, said, “Of all the in- ventions—the alphabet and the printing press alone excepted—those inventions which abridge distance have done most for the civilization of our species. Every improvement of the means of locomotion bene- fits mankind morally and intellectually as well as materially, and not only facilitates the interchange of the various productions of nature and art, but tends to remove national and. provincial antipathies, and to bind together all the branches of the great human family.” Still later, the Rev. Horace Bushnell, a well known divine and theologian of this country, wrote these rather remarkable words: ‘The toad is that physical sign or symbol by which you will best understand any age or people. If they have no roads, they are savages, for the road is a type of civilized society. If you wish to know whether so- ciety is stagnant, learning scolastic, religion.a dead formality, you may learn something by going into universities. and libraries, but quite as much by looking at the roads; for if there is any motion to society, the road, which is the'symbol of motion, will indicate the fact. When 4 STREETS OF CAMBRIDGE there is activity, or enlargement, or a liberalizing spirit of any kind, then there is intercourse and travel, and these require roads!’ Samuel Smiles, author of many engineering works, writing in 1861, says, “Roads have in all times been among the most influential agencies of society. Roads are literally the pathways, not only of in- dustry, but of social and national intercourse. “Wherever a line of communication between men is formed, it renders commerce practicable; and where commerce penetrates, it in- variably creates a civilization and leaves a history.” If the words of these learned men are true, then the extent and condition of the roads of a country may be regarded as an index of its progress, a kind of exponent of the power to which its civilization has been raisea. Much might be written to illustrate how the life and culture of a community are very generally reflected in the cnaracter and extent of its roads. Thus the rough mountain paths, the desert camel caravan tracks, and the primitive unfinished ways which the ancient eastern peoples used for centuries, clearly typify the simple pastoral life and uncul- tured civilization which existed in those early times. Later the mighty military spirit and civilization of the great Ro- man Empire, at its zenith during the first centuries of the Christian Era, was well expressed by its system of military roads and viaducts reaching all parts of the Empire, then embracing nearly the entire civ- ilized world, many ruins of which remain to this day objects of won- der and interest to all travellers. And again, the more refined and cultured civilization of the French Republic is well typified by its system of carefully planned and highly finished national roads and highways. . But perhaps no better illustration can be given than that of our own country. When the Pilgrims landed on these shores nearly three hundred years ago, they found only a crude and savage civilization and the most primitive means of communication—simply the natural streams and such trails as the Indians’ own feet had made. These means, however, had served the needs of the simple people for an unknown number of centuries. No progress had been made because the needs of the civilization did not require it. With the coming of the white man, however; a new civilization was introduced, which quickly led to the construction of highways and the establishment of ferries and fords at stream crossings. STREETS OF CAMBRIDGE 5 Slowly, and by the expenditure of vast amounts of labor and money, these highways were extended and improved, the ferries and fords were replaced by bridges and viaducts, and the tremendous nat- ural obstacles of immense distances, wide streams, and heavy grades found in many parts of the country were overcome, and works in highway construction of great magnitude commensurate with the wealth and civilization of the country have been carried out. By these means, the freest intercourse between all parts of the country in commerce, trade, and social life is now possible and easy, and the standards of living and the culture of the people have been correspondingly raised. It is proposed, in the pages which follow, to show something of the way in which the great natural disadvantages of situation and topography, which existed in the original site chosen for the future town of Cambridge, were overcome, and a system of highways and bridges constructed adequate and convenient for local use, and which now forms an important part of the highway system of the great met- ropolitan district. EARLY HISTORY (1631 to 1775) Prior to the decision of the little company led by Governor John Winthrop and Deputy Governor Thomas Dudley, on December 28, 1630, to start on the banks of the Charles river a settlement soon to be known as “New Towne” and later as “Cambridge,” other settle- ments had been formed in the near vicinity. Salem was founded in 1628; in June, 1629, Charlestown had been founded; while Boston, Dorchester, and Watertown had been founded and settlements begun early in 1630. These dates are important because the first highway to which the inhabitants of Newtowne had access was the “path from Watertown to Charlestown,” so often referred to in the early town records. This way or path led from the center of Watertown to Charlestown, closely following the present lines of Mt. Auburn street in Watertown and Cambridge street (first called “Mill street” and afterward called “Cambridge street” and “Road to the College” in Watertown) to Elmwood avenue; thence following Elmwood avenue, Brattle street, Mason street, and Kirkland street in Cambridge—Wash- ington street in Somerville—and Main. street in Charlestown—to the Charlestown and Boston ferry established in 1631. This path from Watertown to Charlestown is undoubtedly the oldest way in Cam- bridge, and over it for at least four years—until the ferry at the fant 6 STREETS OF CAMBRIDGE of Dunster street across Charles river was established—all the travel from Cambridge to Boston had to pass. The first mention of this way appears in the Town Records for December 2, 1633, as follows: “It is ordered that noe perfon whatfo- ever fhall fell anny tree neer the Towne ( ) within the path which goeth from Watertown to Charleftowne, upon the fforfiture ffive shillings for every tree foe ffelled.” The next way mentioned in the Town Records is under date of March 2, 1633-4, as follows: “Granted John Benjamin all the ground between John Masters, his ground, and Antho Couldbyes, provided that the windmill hill shall be reserved for the Town use, and a cart- way of two rods wide unto the same.” Fifty years later or on June 20, 1684, this cartway was laid out by the Town as follows: “It was then voted whether the highway running through Rich. Eccles field down to the windmill hill should be made an open highway, and it was voted in the affirmative.” The highway here referred to was what is now known as Ash street and Bath street from Brattle street to the old Town Landing (at Windmill Hill), and seems to be the first highway formally laid out as such by vote of the Town. Other streets were laid out at an early day, as is testified to by William Wood in his “New England’s Prospect” in 1633. He says, “Newtowne is one of the neatest and best compacted towns in New England, having many fair structures with many handsome contrived streets.” Another historian, writing in 1652, says of Cambridge, “The Town is compact closely together within itself till of late years some few straggling houses have been built. * * * It hath well ordered streets and comely completed with the faire building of Harvard Col- lege.” ae The following seem to have been the streets composing the early village with the old and modern names: Braintree street, now called Harvard street and Harvard Square. Spring street, now a part of Mt. Auburn street. Long street, now called Winthrop street. Marsh lane, now called South street and part of Eliot street. Creek lane, now called Brattle Square and part of Eliot street. Wood street, now called Boylston street. Water street, now called Dunster street. Crooked street, now called Holyoke street. TEWKSBURY CAMBRIDGE - (642 To 1655. Lightly shaded area shows approximate limite at that time. Heavily shaded area shows limits of today. Scale 2% miles toaninch. STREETS OF CAMBRIDGE 7 There were numerous other “lanes” and “ways” noted in the original records, many of which cannot now be identified on account of the meagre description given. Parts of Garden street, Huron ave- nue, and Vassal lane formed the old “Highway to Fresh Pond.” Gar- den street, northerly of Huron avenue, was called the “Highway to the Great Swamp.” What is now called Massachusetts avenue from Harvard Square to the Arlington line and leading to Arlington, Lexington and the towns beyond was long called the “Highway to Menotomy.” It is not knowm when these settlements were first begun, but it must have been at a very early day. That the town then exercised control over the terri- tory is shown by an order of the town dated January 14, 1638, that “no timber shall be felled beyond Menotomy river (Alewife Brook) without a warrant from the major part of the Townsmen.” What are now called Newton (then called “Cambridge Village”) and Brighton (then called “Little Cambridge’) were added to New- towne in 1634, and in 1642 all the land lying upon Shawshine river and between that and Concord river and between that and Merrimac river, not formerly granted, was granted to Cambridge. This grant was confirmed March 7, 1643, and included Billerica, parts of Car- lisle, Tewksbury, and Chelmsford, and all of Bedford, Lexington, and Arlington. ; Thus the bounds of Cambridge at that time (and until 1655, wher Billerica was incorporated as a separate town) extended towards the north for a distance of about twenty miles, and included the consid- erable settlements of “Menotomy” (Arlington), “The Farms” (Lex- ington), Bedford and Billerica. (See Map. I.) MASSACHUSETTS AVENUE.—There is no doubt that the. road ur way connecting these villages with the center at Cambridge Court House (now Harvard Square) was laid out and in use at a. very early date in substantially the same location as Massachusetts. avenue is to-day. The practical inconvenience of so extensive a township with the: long distances it necessitated to travel to town meetings, church, etc.,. soon became apparent, and protests began to be made against it. The town records of a meeting held November 29, 1654, contain, this rather quaint entry: “In ans. to a L’re sent to the Towne ffrom or Neybours of Shaw 8 Al ae STREETS OF CAMBRIDGE Vow pa ea “hs s. ) Shine, Alias Bilracie, wherein they desire that whole tract of land may be disingaged from this place & be one Intire body of it selfe: the Towne consented to choose five persons—a Committee to treate & con- clude with them concring yr requeft therein, at wch time was chosen Mr. Henry Dunfter, Edw. Champney, Jno. Bridge, Edw. Goffe & Edw. Winship.” This request of the Shawshine people was granted, and an amicable agreement reached, and Billerica was incorporated as a town the fol- lowing year, 1655. Lexington was incorporated in 1713 and Arling- ton was incorporated as “West Cambridge” in 1807. Newton (called “Cambridge Village”) was incorporated in 1688 and Brighton (called “Little Cambridge”) was incorporated in 1807. From 1642 until 1655, then, Cambridge was at her zenith as far as territory was concerned. The setting off of the several towns left Cambridge less than her present area and the seventeen miles of highway which connected this northern territory with the Cambridge Center in 1655 had in 1807 been reduced to about two and one-fourth miles in length to reach the limit of Cambridge territory at the Arling- ton line. It may not be out of place here to recall the fact that it was over this road that Paul Revere made his famous “midnight ride,” followed later by the British soldiers on their disastrous march to Lexington and Concord, April 19, 1775. Lieutenant-Colonel Smith with 800 reg- ulars landed at Lechmere Point the night before and in the early morn- ing passed up this way from Beech street in Cambridge to Lexington Green. Later in the day a detachment of reinforcements, consisting of about 1200 marines, under Lord Percy, entered Cambridge by the “Great Bridge” over Charles river, where the Anderson Bridge now is, and passed up the whole length of the way to Lexington, where they met the first detachment of Smith’s in active retreat. Together they finished the return, with such speed as they could, leaving the Menotomy Road at Beech street on their way to Charlestown and safety. In 1805 the Middlesex Turnpike was chartered, as is related in another place (p. 15), and the portion of the way from the Arlington line to Porter Square formed a part of that turnpike from 1805 to 1842, when it was made a county road, and upon the incorporation of Cambridge as a city in 1846, the street passed to the control of the city as North avenue, and in 1894 the entire way from Harvard Bridge, Cambridge, to Lexington was named Massachusetts avenue. STREETS OF CAMBRIDGE 9 The land lying south of the “Path from Watertown to Charles- town,” and east of the “neat and compacted little village,” with its eight short streets, was for a long time used almost entirely for culti- ration and grass. Early in its history, in the year 1632, the town voted to impale or fence in this land, and a line of palings 9487 feet long, extending from the village easterly to near the present location of the Boston & Albany (Grand Junction) Branch R. R., was constructed and the cost borne by forty-two owners. About one thousand acres of land were enclosed by this paling, the location of the paling being substan- tially the same as the present’ line between Cambridge and Somerville. This impaled land was divided into lots of various sizes and appor- tioned to sundry householders of the village. Into this impaled land sundry ways were laid out. One, leading from the village by what is now Arrow street and Massachusetts avenue to about where Pleasant street now is located, was called the “Highway into the Neck.” From this point, one way led southeasterly about on the line of the present Massachusetts ave- nue to the edge of the marsh and was called the “Way to Pelhams Island,’* and another way led southwesterly following about the present line of Putnam avenue and was called the “Highway into the Little Neck.” Another way went about on the line of Pleasant street to Cottage street, and thence led by a way skirting the uplands to near where Fort Washington now is and was called the “Roade to the Oyster Banks.” From the “Highway to the Neck” a way led to the northeast nearly on the present location of Dana street and was called the ie way to the Common Pales.” There were other small ways whose names suggested the pas- toral character of occupations of many of the early inhabitants. “Back Lane,” “Cow Yard Lane,” and “Field Lane’ were some of these located close to the little cluster of houses forming the early settlement. As already stated, upon the founding of Newtowne in 1630, the Path from Watertown to Charlestown was already in use and provided a ready route for communication with the Towns of Charlestown, Salem, and Boston. It was about 434 miles by this i ‘ . . } Sce undcr head of Matn Street, page 20, for description of Pelhums Island 10 STREETS OF CAMBRIDGE way to the Town House in Boston at the present site of the Old State House at Washington and State streets. BOYLSTON STREET AND THE “WAY FROM CAM- BRIDGE TO ROXBERY.”—It was early seen, however, that it was desirable also to have direct means of communication with towns on the southerly side of Charles river—Dedham, Roxbury, Dorchester, and also Boston from the south side. The establish- ment of the ferry across the river at what is now Dunster street not only united the two parts of Cambridge as it was then consti- tuted—separated by the river—but gave the opportunity for more extended communication to the above-mentioned towns, through what was early known as “Muddy River Village,” now Brookline, and by way of “The Neck” to the Town of Boston, a distance of eight miles by this route from Harvard Square to the Boston Town House. This meant the laying out of a way from the ferry to the Wa- tertown-Roxbury road, and the first reference to it is as follows in the Town Records for 1638: “It is ordered in respect of making a sufficient path from the south side of Charles river from Cambridge to Roxbery that the line shall lie right to the upland therefor that common lands that fall within ( ) line of Mr. Harlackinden’s side shall belong to him, and his forever and in respect of which so much of his own land as falleth in the outside of the line, he as- signeth up unto the Town’s use; also in regard Mr. Harlackinden hath upon his own particular charge made a ditch he shall be freed from all ( ) about making a causey or any other charge to make that path sufficient, and his bounds to remain according to the rail and ditch now is on every side of his land.” Over this route the travel soon began to make its way, for on October 25, 1640, the Town of Boston ordered that a “Bridge be made at Muddy River, and Mr. Colburn, Elliot, and Oliver are appointed to see it done.” May 25, 1642, a committee from Boston was “appointed to join with Dedham, Cambridge, and Watertown to lay.out highways from town to town through Boston lands at Muddy River.” Similar committees were appointed by Cambridge from time to time, and frequent reference to the mattey is made in the Town Records, but no agreement seems to have been reached as to a for- STREETS OF CAMBRIDGE 11 mal laying out of the highway, although such a way was then in actual use. On January 19, 1662, it is recorded in the Cambridge Records that “Mr. John Stedman, Edd. Oakes, Thos. Fox, and Edward Shep- ard are appointed to attend the laying out of the highway from our bounds leading towards Roxbery, as the law directeth.” This was the year of the construction of the “Great Bridge” over Charles river, at what is now Boylston street. The committees of the towns still not agreeing with the Boston committee, referees were appointed, and on December 16, 1662, the referees reported that “We, William Park, John Peirpont, and Thomas Weld, chosen to determine the highway leading from Cambridge through Boston bounds, the committees between the two towns not agreeing, doe conclude that the way shall goe without the common fields by Goodman Devotion* and Goodman Stevens houses, and soe to Cambridge bounds as the ould way now runneth, whereunto the committee of Boston concurred, having left the same unto us.” The location as here given in Little Cambridge (now called Brighton) and Muddy River Village (now Brookline) has been well determined and followed the present location of Harvard street, north Harvard street, Cambridge street, and Harvard street in Brighton and Harvard street and Washington street in Brook- line. In Boston, the route followed the present location of Rox- bury street and Washington street to the old Town House. As the new bridge built in 1663 across Charles River was located some six hundred feet westerly of the old ferry, a portion of the old road and the “causie,” as it was called, across the marsh, had to be abandoned and located anew. This relocation seems to have given rise to considerable controversy between the owners of the lands and the Town, as frequent reference is made in the records of the Town to the location of lands taken, payments for the same, etc. This matter seems finally to have been disposed of by a vote passed December 13, 1663, that “Mr. Edward Jackson, Edward Oakes, and Thomas Danforth are appointed by the Townsmen to lay out all necessary highways on the south side the water, and *The house here referred to as the “Goodman Devotion House” is still standing and is known as the “Edward Devotion House,” home of the founder of Brookline Schools, on Harvard street near Coolidge Cor- ner, Brookliné. It is open to the public Saturday afternoons. 12 This milestone is now standing in a recess in the brick wall surrounding the grounds of the House of the Good Shepherd, Huntington Avenue, Roxbury. STREETS OF CAMBRIDGE agree with the proprietors of the land for the same by exchange for common land or otherwise according to their dis- cretion.” The location of this historic way has been further defined by seven milestones set in 1729 by P. Dudley, marking the route, three of which are still standing, to- gether with a “parting stone,” also set by P. Dudley in 1744 on Rox- bury street near Eliot Square, marking the junction of the ways to Boston, Dedham and Cambridge. These stones are j This parting stone is indicated and numbered upon the accompanying now standing in the back of the sidewalk map. Eliot Square, facing The old milestone now standing in the north- eee easterly corner of the burying ground near Harvard Square marked “Boston 8 miles 1734 A. I.” on its face and ‘‘Cam- : bridge New Bridge 2% miles 1794” on its back, once stood on the easterly side of the old Court is now standing in the grounds of the Har- This milestone vard Congregational F{, i - —_ < Church, Harvard St., ea Har 2 Slag o> eee Be ee Brookline. vard Square and an This milestone is now standing in the corner of the yard of the Harvard Gram- mar School, Harvard Street, Brighton. marked the beginning of this highway to Boston. While the major part of this highway was outside of even the original limits of Cambridge, its history is of special interest be- cause, for more than one hundred and fifty years, it was the route over which the most of the travel from Cambridge to Boston, Rox- bury, Dedham, and other towns passed. STREETS OF CAMBRIDGE 13 GORE STREET AND THE GRAVES HOUSE.—What is claimed to be the first house erected in Cambridge was built for the use of Thomas Graves, who came from England in July, 1629, to Salem under an agreement with the Massachusetts Bay Com- pany. Under this agreement, Mr. Graves was to receive fifty pounds a year and have a house and one hundred acres of land as- signed to him and “to have a part thereof planted at the Company’s charge.” The one hundred acres ot land with the house was lo- cated on what was soon called “Grave’s Neck,” afterwards Lech- mere’s Point, and now called East Cambridge, and Graves and family of wife and five children lived there a number of years. In 1635 the house and land became the property of Atherton Haugh, who purchased more land till in 1642 he owned about three hundred acres. In 1699 the widow of his grandson, Samuel Haugh, sold it to John Langdon, and in 1706 he sold it to Spencer Phipps, afterward Lieutenant Governor of Massachusetts. A daughter of Spencer Phipps married Richard Lechmere, who on the death of his father-in-law in 1757 bought out the other heirs and so became owner of what was long known as ‘Lechmere Point.” The land upon which this house was built was entirely sur- rounded by marsh, covered at high tide with water, and was reached from the Watertown-Charlestown road by a bridge over Willis’ Creek (Millers River) and a causeway across the marsh, with a road leading to the house, which was on the northerly side of Spring Street between Third and Fourth Street. This road and causeway played an important part in the movement of the British troops on April 18, 1775, when the eight hundred British soldiers from the Boston side were landed near the old Graves house, then standing, and marched over the road and causeway to the Milk Row road, thence to the “road to Menotomy,” and so on to Lexington and Con- cord, Later in the year 1775 and the early part of 1776, this old road was of great assistance in the work of fortifying the Point as a part of the siege of Boston. The fort built here was considered the most important of any around Boston and as such was carefully planned and armed with the larger cannon—even the causeway was protected by a small redoubt flanking it. This road is shown upon a map of Boston and vicinity illus- trating the account of the siege of Boston by John Marshall in his “Life of George Washington.” published ip 1807. 14 STREETS OF CAMBRIDGE The old Graves house, which was the occasion for the build- ing of this road and causeway which helped to make so much his- tory, stood until about 1820, when it was torn down. The old road and causeway probably formed a part of Medford Street, in Somer- ville, and Gore Street as now laid out. CARE OF EARLY STREETS.—It is instructive to learn that very early in its history the Town began to take care of such roads and ways as it then had. On November 3, 1634, it was “ordered that every inhabitant in the Towne shall keepe the street cleane from wood and all other things against his owne ground, and whosoever shall have anny thinge lye in the street above one daye after the next meetinge day shall forfeit V s. for every such default.” Also, “John White is chosen surveyer to see the highways and streete kept cleane and in repair for the yeare.” It may be remembered that “Mr. Joseph Cook,” who then lived on Holyoke Street, was in 1635 authorized by the Town to keep the ferry across the River. In 1636 we find him looking after the streets of the Town, for it was “agreed with Mr. Cook to take up all the stubbs that are within the bounds of the Town, that is within the Town gates, and he is to have nine pence apiece for taking the same and filling up the holes all above three inches.” In the following year, however, an agreement was made with Mr. Symon Crosby “to take up all the stubbs within the Town streets in any way of passage for horse carts or man, at four pence the stutb,” a cut of five pence apiece. In 1639, Joseph Cook and Edward Goffe were given “power to cause all that have carriages that way to come together and mend the highway in the neck of land.” The town appears to have suffered even in that early day from the idea which seems all too prevalent now in these later days that public property can with impunity be appropriated to private uses. September 20, 1678, it is recorded that “the selectmen of Cam- bridge having many complaints come to them do order that who- soever shall dig any clay or sand in any highway within the bounds of the Town of Cambridge shall pay five shillings for every load digged in the highway.” Among the many questions regarding the care of various kinds of live stock which were allowed to run at large on the commons STREETS OF CAMBRIDGE 15 and highways of the Town, the proper control of swine seems to have been the most troublesome. In addition to the yearly election of “hog reeves,” or wardens to look after them, numerous regula- ‘tions and restrictions were passed and many fines for their infrac- tion were imposed. In 1647 it was ordered, “that all hogs in the town shall be suf- ficiently yoaked and ringed or else shutt up.” The reference here is to the practice common at that time of placing rings in the snouts of swine to prevent rooting and attaching a frame or yoke about the neck to hamper their passing through fences when allowed. to run loose. In this connection it is interesting to read another order dated February 23, 1662-3, as follows: “ordered that all swine be yoaked wth a crotch yoake or w'h 2 crofs pieces & yt y® same be in length & bredth proporcconably to the sizes of ye swine.” Another rather curious order passed on the same date is as fol- lows: “Ordered that if any man be convicted that his dog is used to pull the tails of any beasts, and do not effectually restrain him, he shall pay for every offense of that kind twenty shillings in case that further complaynt be made.” LATER HISTORY (1775 to 1900) From what has already been said, it will be seen that for more than one hundred and fifty years after the first settlement of the Town, its growth and development had been very slow. In the year 1790, the entire population of Cambridge, then including Arlington and Brighton, was by the census given as 2115, so that within the city limits as now defined the population must have been less than one thousand persons. The length of roadways then laid out and in use could not have exceeded 12.0 miles. Of manufactures, there was practically none. The principal interests of the people were about the college and the farms. The lack of convenient connections with Boston and the poor condition of the roads leading to other towns restricted intercourse and must have tended to make the general social life narrow, self-centered and provincial. It was only after more than half a century of effort on the part of certain citizens of the town to improve the primitive conditions then existing, and overcome the great natural barrier of the broad waters of the Charles River, that a bridge and causeway was con- 16 STREETS OF CAMBRIDGE structed in 1793 from the “westerly part of Boston to Pelham’s Island in the Town of Cambridge.” The completion of the West Boston bridge was followed by the construction of another bridge in 1809 from near Barton’s point in Boston to Lechmere Point in Cambridge, called the Canal or Craigie Bridge. It is undoubtedly true that the construction of these two bridges was the most important of all the factors that contributed to the more rapid increase in population and material prosperity which soon followed. Their construction soon led to the laying out and construction of a number of thoroughfares and main roads leading to and through Cambridge, and the cutting up of various large es- tates, by means of smaller streets, into house lots for sale and oc- cupation. At about this time also another movement came into popular favor which became helpful to Cambridge interests in the same direction. Reference is here made to the policy of laying out and constructing trunk line highways, connecting towns more or less widely separated, by a company incorporated by the Legisla- ture for this special purpose. These were called Turnpike Roads and were built by the incorporated companies, using private capital, acting under charters granted by the Legislatures, giving to them certain powers and imposing certain duties and restrictions. All over the country at this time, these corporations were chartered to take over and build Turnpiké Roads, especially where the municipal authority had not the means or the courage to construct them. In most of the states, special laws were passed giving the cor- porations certain rights and defining their powers as to taking land, paying damages, limiting the amounts of tolls to be charged, num- ber of toll gates, etc.* Acting under these special laws, it is said that in the New England states alone, some one hundred eighty- two Turnpike Corporations were chartered. The most of them proved to be financial failures, and were abandoned and many of the roads surrendered to the County Commissioners of the County in which the roads were located. Indirectly, however, they were of great benefit to the country in stimulating an interest in better transportation facilities, espe- cially between the more important towns. ee *A typical schedule of toll charges is given on page 19 relati ain § : West Boston Briuge. & elating (o Main Street anit STREETS OF CAMBRIDGE 17 « CONCORD AVE. AND BROADWAY.—Cambridge was the terminal point of several of these turnpike roads constructed during: this period. The first was called the “Cambridge and Concord Turn- pike Corporation,” and was chartered May 5, 1803, to construct a turnpike or toll road from a point near the dwelling house of Jonas: Wyeth, in Cambridge to Concord, Mass., passing by the summer house of Dr. Andrew Craigie, who, as customary, later had a suit with the corporation for damages. March 5, 1805, a charter was given the same corporation to ex- tend the Turnpike from the Cambridge Common easterly to the Causeway of West Boston Bridge “in as straight a line as the cir- cumstances will permit,” but not to go nearer than a distance of ninety feet from the new building of Harvard College then being built, now called Stoughton Hall. The easterly terminus of this. turnpike was to be at the “causeway of West Boston Bridge near the house of Royal Makepeace.” This portion of the street was first called Concord St. and finally called Broadway. The westerly portion of the road was completed December 1,. 1806, and in February, 1807, it was declared open for business. The: part from the Common easterly was not completed until several years later, for in March, 1811, the Corporation petitioned to be re— lieved of its construction, but the petition was dismissed in Janu- ary, 1812. Two toll gates, which were not to be “closely located” were allowed to be built in this road. September, 1826, the Company turned over all its papers to the County Commissioners and asked to have the road laid out as a public way, which was done in May, 1829, making it a County road. HAMPSHIRE ST.—Another ambitious scheme, called “The Middlesex Turnpike,” was chartered January 15, 1805. The road be- gan at the Tyngsborough Meeting House and, passing through Chelmsford, Billerica, Bedford, Lexington, Arlington, and by the old Menotomy road to Porter Sq., Cambridge, thence in nearly a straight line to the Cambridge and Concord Turnpike Road at what is now known as Mechanics Sq. This road is now known as Hamp- shire St., in Cambridge. One of the toll houses on this turnpike stood at the intersection of Beacon and Washington Sts., Somerville. On petition of the Corporation, it was dissolved by the Legisla- 18 STREETS OF CAMBRIDGE ‘ture, March 13, 1841, and the turnpike became a county road in September, 1842. WESTERN AVE. AND BRIDGE.—Another corporation was chartered June 12, 1824, to construct a turnpike through the towns of Cambridge, Brighton and Watertown. This enterprise had sev- eral unique features. It was virtually promoted by the proprietors -of the West Boston Bridge to offset the loss they feared would re- ssult in decreased patronage on the West Boston Bridge, then a toll Ybridge, by reason of a newly authorized turnpike road connecting “Watertown with the “Mill Dam Road,” in Boston. The plan of this ‘Cambridge to Watertown Turnpike shows the route “from the pump in Watertown, to Cambridge, on the way to the pump in Dock Square”—two rather unusual terminii to be given a Turnpike Road, especially at that time! Again there were to be no tolls charged, so, of course, there were no toll houses or gates. The entire cost of the road, including two bridges over the Charles River, was to be borne by the company. The West Boston Bridge Corporation, in 1846, sold their entire interest in these and other properties to the Hancock Free Bridge ‘Corporation, and named the turnpike “Western Ave.” In 1855, it was laid out by the City of Cambridge as a public highway. RIVER ST. AND BRIDGE.—On March 2, 1808, Jonathan L. Austin, a Cambridge man who lived on Inman St., opposite the head -of Austin St., with other real estate owners, were incorporated and -authorized to construct a bridge and connecting highway, now called River St., leading from Brighton to Main St., at its junction with “Western Ave., as Mr. Paige states in his “History of Cambridge”— “For the advantage of the proprietors of the West Boston Bridge :-and the owners of real estate in Cambridgeport.” This bridge, then -called the “Brighton and Cambridgeport Bridge,” and street (first called “Brighton St.”) were completed and opened for travel Dec. Ii, 1810, and they were maintained by the corporation until 1832, ‘when, after much discussion, the Town assumed their care and umaintenance. BROOKLINE ST. AND BRIDGE.—Another toll-collecting ‘enterprise was called the “Cambridge and Brookline Bridge Corpora- tion,” composed largely of Cambridge men, and was chartered April STREETS OF CAMBRIDGE 19 25, 1850, to connect Cambridge and Brookline by a bridge, with causeways leading to existing streets in both places. Tolls were to be collected but were not to exceed a specified schedule. This led to the laying out and extension of Brookline St. to the street already laid out from Massachusetts Ave. to Auburn St. and called “Canal St.” in 1852, and the development of large tracts of land in the vicin- ity. The bridge and its approaches were made free and taken over as highways by the municipalities, April 6, 1870. The old toll house stood on the westerly side of Brookline St., a little south of Gran- ite St. WEST BOSTON (NOW CAMBRIDGE) BRIDGE.—The construction of this bridge and the approaching causeways at each end were authorized by an act of the Legislature, aated March 9, 1792, and the bridge was open for travel, November 23, 1793. The main bridge was 3483 feet long, with a causeway on the Boston side extending nearly to South Russell St. and with another causeway on the Cambridge side extending from the westerly end of the bridge to the easterly side of “Pelham’s Island,” near Moore St., a distance of about 3,600 feet. At the opening of the Bridge and causeway in 1793, a toll house was located on the north side of the causeway, at its extreme westerly end, near Moore St. Upon the laying out of Harvard St. and other streets leading into the causeway, about 1805, the toll house was moved, and in 1835 it stood about goo feet easterly of the junction of Broadway. Later it was moved again and placed on the southerly side of the bridge, nearly opposite where First St. now comes into Main St. In 1810 there was another Toll House shown on the northerly side of the causeway, at Grove St., Boston. As illustrating the “spirit of the age” as it existed one hundred and twenty-five years ago, the schedule of tolls to be collected at these toll houses may be found of interest: “Each foot passenger (or one person passing), two-thirds of a penny; one person and horse, two pence two-thirds of a penny; single horse, cart or sled, or sley, four pence; wheelbarrows, hand- carts, and other vehicles capable of carrying like weight, one penny, one-third of a penny; single horse and chaise, chair or sulky, eight pence; coaches, chariots, phaetons and curricles, one shilling each; all other wheel carriages or sleds drawn by more than one beast, six pence; neat cattle and horses passing the said bridge, exclu- sive of those rode or in carriages or teams, one penny, one-third of 20 STREETS OF CAMBRIDGE a penny; swine and sheep, four pence for each dozen, and at the same rate for a greater or less number; and in all cases the same toll shall be paid for all carriages and vehicles passing the said bridge, whether the same be loaded or not loaded; and to each team one man and no more shall be allowed as a driver to pass free from payment of toll, and in all cases DOUBLE TOLL SHALL BE PAID ON THE LORD’S DAY; and at all times when the toll gatherer shall not attend to his duty the gate or gates shall be left open.” Considering the limited resources of the time it must be con- ceded that this whole enterprise was a very large and creditable one and that the enthusiasm of the “Columbian Centinal,” a news- paper of the time, was excusable when it declared that “The ele- gance of the workmanship, and the magnitude of the undertaking are perhaps unequalled in the history of enterprises.” * MAIN ST.—Main St., as originally so called, extended from the abutment of the West Boston Bridge to Harvard Square. In 1894 the name of Massachusetts Ave. was given to the portion between Lafayette Sq. and Harvard Sq. The remaining portion, which is now called Main St., was first laid out as an approach to the West Boston Bridge in 1793. This causeway was built entirely upon marsh land and was. originally laid out 130 feet wide, but the roadway itself was con- structed only 40 feet wide and was made of the material taken from the two wide ditches or canals dug one on each side of the roadway, which was enclosed by retvining walls or bulkheads on each side, with cap stone and railing ci: top. Later the roadway was filled out to 70 feet in width, and about 30 feet beyond on each side of the way as filled was released back to the abutting owners, making the final width as at present constructed 70 feet. From the end of the causeway near Moore St., the road was constructed across Pelham’s Island “in the most direct and prac- ticable line to the nearest part of the Cambridge Road,” which was the old road formerly called the ‘““Way to Pelham’s Island.” *For a more complete description of the Cambridge Bridges see paper, “An Historical Account of Some Bridges Over the Charles River,” in Publications of the Cambridge Historical Society, No. 7, page 51, et. seq. STREETS OF CAMBRIDGE 21 On the Boston side the causeway was built from the end of the bridge near Grove St. to near what is now South Russell St., Boston. This made the total length of Bees and causeways about 8,800 feet, or I 2-3 miles. The “Pelham’s Island” here oe to was a tract of upland containing about 20 acres, slightly elevated above the marsh land, and extending from near the present location of Moore street to near Columbia street. It was largely surrounded by marsh land and on the west was bounded by a brook or narrow creek which crossed the present location of Massachusetts avenue near Lafay- ette Square, making it an island at high tide. It was so called be- cause it was owned at one time by Herbert Pelham, who came from England to this country in 1638 or 1639 and settled in Cam- bridge at the northwesterly corner of South and Dunster streets. The following is an interesting anecdote which is related con- cerning Mr. Pelham: It seems that on November 17, 1638, about the time of the arrival of Mr. Pelham with his three motherless children in this country, a Mr. Roger Harlackenden, another prom- inent and highly respected man in the colony, had suddenly died of smallpox, leaving a widow and two children and also the house at the corner of Dunster and South streets. By his will he pro- vided that 100£ should be paid from his estate to the church. Mr. Pelham soon married the widow Harlackenden and with the combined families occupied the Dunster street house and in the spring of 1640 he paid the bequest by giving to the church a milch cow! He was quite prominent in public affairs for about Io years, returning to England in 1649, and dying in 1673. He left one son named Edward in this country. In 1756 Ralph Inman, for whom Inman street was named, be- came the owner of this land and in 1792 the land was conveyed to Leonard Jarvis, a large landowner at that time, and it was from him that the Proprietors of the West Boston Bridge obtained the land needed for making the connecting road from the causeway to the ““Way to Pelhams’ Island” above referred to. The construction of the bridge and causeway immediately led to the presentation of a petition by James Winthrop, Esquire, to the Court of Sessions, to “improve the road which leads from Pel- hams Island in the Town of Cambridge to the public meeting house 22 ‘STREETS OF CAMBRIDGE in the first parish of said Town.” A committee was appointed by the Court which reported September 18, 1793, recommending that the way be laid out, with some alterations in the lines, by certain bounds and measurements.. As the description of the boundaries of the street included in the report of the committee is rather unique, a part of it is quoted here: “The northerly bound of said way begins at the northwesterly corner of the Causeway thrown up by the proprietors of the new bridge (so called) and runs from thence by a straight line to a pear tree nearly opposite the mansion house of Leonard Jarvis, Esquire, and from thence by a straight line to the centre of a barberry bush standing in the present old proprietors way near the wall at the northerly side thereof, and from thence by a straight line to the southeasterly corner post of the fence inclosing the yard in front of the mansion house of Francis Dana, Esquire, and from thence by the fence as it now stands to a small stake and stones nearly op- posite to a blacksmith’s shop on land of Wm. Winthrop, Esquire, and from thence by sundry stakes across said old proprietors way and part of the land of said Winthrop to an apple tree in said Win- throp’s land near said old proprietors way, thence again crossing said old proprietors way by sundry stakes to a well in land of Ed- mund Dana, from thence by sundry stakes to a large stake in the fence near (and a little eastward) the parsonage house (so called) and from thence by a straight line to common land before the meet- ing house, to strike said common land fifty-three feet distant from the front of a dwelling house belonging to Andrew Boardman, Es- quire, which finishes the northerly bound of said new Way.” Probably no better evidence can be given of the unsophisticated character of the men of Cambridge at that time than is indicated by the foregoing description of the bounds of one of its principal highways. While some changes have been made-in the lines of Main street at certain points by widenings at various times, the street remains at present substantially as then laid out and forms one of the prin- cipal approaches to the City from the east. It was over this street that for many years one of the stage lines passed leading west from Boston. The following clipping from the “Massachusetts Register” of 1819 gives “A list of the STREETS OF CAMBRIDGE 23 stages that start from taverns in Boston.” “New line of half-hourly ' coaches between Cambridgeport and Boston leave as follows, viz. : Half past seven A. M. and continue to leave each office every half- hour through the day until 8 P. M. Passengers taken and left at any place in Cambridge, Cambridgeport, and Boston. Office in Boston at 51 Brattle street. Fare to Cambridge 25 cents, Cam- bridgeport 12% cents.” It was upon this street also that one of the first horse-car lines. to operate in this country was located in 1856, first running from. Central Square, Cambridge, to West Cedar street, Boston. CANAL (OR CRAIGIE) BRIDGE.—The movement which ultimately led to the construction of the Canal Bridge and the two important avenues of Cambridge street and Bridge street was be- gun in 1738 when a number of Cambridge citizens applied to the General Court for liberty to establish a ferry between Cambridge and Boston. Another petition was presented the same year for the right to construct a bridge from “Colonel Phipps Farm” (now East Cambridge) to Boston. In 1785 another petition to the same effect was presented, but nothing came of either until after the con- struction of the West Boston Bridge in 1792-3, as before related. The success of the Charlestown and West Boston Bridges and the acquirement by Mr. Andrew Craigie of the control of the large tract of land on and westerly of Lechmere Point led to a revival of the scheme to construct a bridge from Lechmere Point to Bos- ton, and on October 27, 1807, Mr. Craigie and ‘twelve associates. were incorporated with authority to build the Canal Bridge. It was called “Canal Bridge” because one-third of the shares were to be held by the individual proprietors of the Middlesex. Canal Corporation, but it soon came to be familiarly called “Crai- gie’s Bridge.” The bridge was completed and opened for travel in August, 1809. The original length of the bridge was about 2800 feet, but prior- to 1834 a large portion of the bridge at the Cambridge end, about 1150 feet in length, was removed and filled solid to form a part of Bridge street. Leverett street on the Boston side was also extended’ about 400 feet to the present harbor line. The Toll house stood on the northerly side of the bridge about 400 feet easterly of Prisom Point street. ‘24 STREETS OF CAMBRIDGE Together with several other bridges it was purchased by the Hancock Free Bridge Corporation in 1846, and in 1858 it was made a free bridge. In 1910 the entire bridge was removed and replaced by the solid embankment of the Charles river dam as a part of the Metropolitan Park system. CAMBRIDGE STREET.—Upon the completion of the Canal Bridge in 1809, Mr. Andrew Craigie and four others were incor- porated March 3, 1810, as the “Lechmere Point Corporation.” They then held great tracts of land in the easterly section of the town, extending from the easterly end of the point to a line west of what is now Inman Square, and they made plans for an extensive land development and sale. In this, Andrew Craigie was the prime mover. It was first necessary to secure a connection between the new bridge and Harvard Square with its connecting thoroughfares. Two men, William Winthrop and Francis Foxcroft, owned the lands on the line of the proposed new street from its junction with the Concord turnpike (now Broadway) to near its crossing of the Middlesex turnpike (now Hampshire street). These two men joined with Mr. Craigie and his associates in laying out and grad- ing the way afterwards called Cambridge street from its junction with Broadway running easterly to its junction with Bridge street in a straight line, a distance of 10,800 feet. Unfortunately, however, Mr. Craigie and the two others did not control all the land on this line, for a length of about 750 feet near Elm street was held by owners adverse to the Lechmere Point Corporation. The town failing to lay out the’street, a petition dated June 6, 1809, was pre- sented to the General Court or Legislature to lay out the street. To this the town remonstrated and the legislature declined to 1o- cate the road. The road finally was laid out by the town July 10, 1809. Further litigation then ensued as to the right of Mr. Craigie and Mr. Winthrop to claim or recover damages for land taken in the layout of the street of their own promotion. This was finally settled on January 5, 1813, by the Court of Sessions finding that the two men “had sustained no damages.” The laying out of this street of ample width and on a straight line connecting these two civic centers was a great public improve- ment. Much of the land in the central part was low and flat, and at that time covered with wood and blueberry bushes. It was in STREETS OF CAMBRIDGE 25 this vicinity that the bear killed September 19, 1754, as mentioned in Paige’s “History of Cambridge,” was reported to have been first seen, BRIDGE STREET.—Bridge street was originally laid out, in connection with the Cambridge street project, to connect with the territory lying to the north and northwest of Lechmere Point. It began at its junction with Cambridge street, now called Lechmere Square, where the westerly abutment of the Canal Bridge was first located in 1809. From this point to Gore street, Bridge street was laid out in 1810 by the “Court of Common Pleas.” From Gore street to Third street it was laid out by the town in 1829, and from Third street to the center of Miller’s river it was laid out by the county in 1839. At some time prior to 1834, Bridge street was extended easterly about 1150 feet over the filling to the new position of the abutment of the Canal bridge, and in 1856 this portion of the street was laid out by the city as a public way. EAST CAMBRIDGE STREETS.—Immediately following the successful efforts of the “Lechmere Point Corporation,” with Mr. Craigie at its head, to secure the laying out of Cambridge street by the town, the project of cutting the property owned by them into streets and lots was undertaken. In 1811 a complete plan of the streets and lots for the district was prepared by Peter Tufts, Jr., a well known surveyor of that time, and recorded in the East Cam- bridge Registry of deeds, and the sale of lots began and has since been carried out in substantial accordance with the original plan. This plan, however, only covered lands extending to about where Charles street now is. The rest of the large area extending to Broad canal was subsequently purchased by another corporation called the “East Cambridge .Land Company,” who in.1869 laid out this tract along the same general lines as that followed by the Lech- mere Point Corporation. MT. AUBURN STREET.—Another important act which aroused great interest in the town, which was then divided by op- posing interests into two practically hostile camps, was the laying out of a new way from the junction of what is now Mt. Auburn 26 STREETS OF CAMBRIDGE street and Elmwood avenue to Brattle Square, forming a part of what is now Mt. Auburn street. The parties having interests in the new West Boston bridge and connecting streets wished to “establish the road as now laid out from the garden of the Hon. Elbridge Gerry (Elmwood ave- nue, corner Mt. Auburn street) to the garden of the late Thomas Brattle, Esquire” (at Brattle Square). On the other hand, Mr. Craigie and his friends wished the new road to run from what is now the junction of Mt. Auburn street and Elmwood avenue in a straight line to the junction of Brattle street and Mason street, and offered to give the land and build the road as far as his land went. This, of course, would tend to send the Boston-wise travel over Cambridge street and Craigie’s bridge and so help develop the Craigie interests in that direction. On December 26, 1805, the town voted to present a petition to the Court of Sessions in favor of the first plan, but at a meeting held February 17, 1806, this action was reversed, and November 17, 1806, the town voted in favor of the second plan, and May 27, 1807, the selectmen laid out the road as desired by Mr. Craigie. The town, however, seems to have again changed its mind, for on May a2, 1808, it voted to lay out the street by the first plan, appropriated $3,000 to construct the street, and directed the selectmen to build the street at once. Mr. Craigie and others immediately protested against this, and seem to have taken physical means to prevent the carrying out of the order, for on June 7, 1808, the town directed the selectmen to complete the work and prosecute “Andrew Craigie and others for trespass committed, or which may hereafter be com- mitted by him or others upon the road.” On September 6, 1808, the town voted to extend the street from Holyoke street to Main street, thus completing the road from the Watertown line to its junction with Massachusetts avenue at Put- nam Square as the part from Brattle Square to Holyoke street was the original “Spring street” of 1635. HARVARD STREET.—Harvard street is another important thoroughfare. Its easterly portion, originally called “Canal street,” formed a part of the scheme of development promoted in the early part of the nineteenth century to make of Cambridge a port of entry for commerce, and this part of the street, in addition to some con- oe Plan ox Carn briclye Begun he Rave, The bast Yay of Ah bor G94. | . eas . Poke 2 < | and Anish an Qpril [Og Tha ¢ part of Com bret org Berth 0X (hartss. ver ; Mulng se Chk G es 1] Coy 7632. Acres fwnds, Brooks — hood, included, The other pee - al See ees a cali) LLL Gort bu on he South of sad Raxy contain 2600 «eres; Ariclu ding S S| 4 opy Prd 40 acho ha Aoaw Broeks “¥c. Charlies Nuvev w nol includsd 1m eather oY Lhs 2 x | fhe os 20 atre Jad munber of Gers. She Mer in hb windings is neor Prickeo. abad, 6 Bist of frook Pacd 120 acres Ny 20 Ts tnt Wrdth ard may conlacn 260 QGeves. the 7100 Lenss thw The Ran . = 7 LE Gorden (|. ep resuet! the ffoaes ay Sarre ed, the Wack Line [srecks, The aa)prneny Dis SX \\ | are