A O>7EC SS . x iS a 6+ Lt, ae pte ° BRAZIL AND Tate Boe tee oop ARN Ss PORTRAYED IN HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE SKETCHES. BY REV. JAMES C. FLETCHER AND REV. D. P. KIDDER, D.D. ILLUSTRATED BY ONE HUNDRED AND FIFTY ENGRAVINGS. NINTH EDITION. REVISED AND BROUGHT DOWN TO DATE. BOSTON: LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY. 1870. p 1) On YY Soo Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1878, by J. C. FLETCHER, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. CAMBRIDGE: PRESS OF JOHN WILSON AND Son. PREFACE TO THE NINTH EDITION. THE demand for a ninth edition of this work is an index that the reading public, in-America and England, takes a deep interest in the subject of Brazil; and that the authors, in their attempt to prepare an acceptable book on the leading country of South America, have not labored in vain. The eighth edition had become exceedingly scarce ; copies commanded three times the original price ; and standing orders for the book, both in London and New York, for four years resulted in obtaining but a single second-hand volume. Upon inquiring into the reason for this scarcity, it was found to con- sist in the fact (1) that the historical portion of “ Brazil and _ > the Brazilians” gave the book a permanent place in both public and private libraries; and (2) that the interest aroused in the United States, by the statistics published in this work, which showed the increasing importance of Brazil in a commercial point of view, caused this volume to fall into the hands of parties who never send their books to what are termed in America ‘‘ antiquarian book-stores.”’ In this ninth edition there has been no abridgment of the descriptions of nature in Brazil, and the manners and customs of the people — descriptions which led the London Athenewm to say, in its review of the first edition, that ‘“ Brazil was never before so fully, so faithfully, so artistically photographed.” The historical portions have been brought down to date. It is in no spirit of boasting, but it is only in accordance with lv PREFACE TO THE NINTH EDITION. truth to say, that ‘ Brazil and the Brazilians” contains the only continuous general history of the Empire in any language. Southey’s great book on the history of Brazil, now exceedingly rare, does not even conclude with the first quarter of this cen- tury. Armitage’s continuation of that history only reaches the period of the Regency, —in point of time nearly a half century ago, —and this work is altogether out of print. In the Portu- guese language the late Visconde do Porto Seguro ( Varnhagen ) amassed and published a vast amount of material for future historians, but he treated mainly of the Colonial Period. Sr. Pereira da Silva is now publishing at Rio de Janeiro what he purposes to be an exhaustive history of his native land. Although many volumes have appeared, the last only comes down to 1840, the epoch of the abolition of the Regency, and of the accession of Dom Pedro II. to the ful] exercise of his prerogatives as Emperor. The data in regard to the commerce of Brazil have been brought down to 1878, as will be found on page 195, in Chapter XXVHL., and in the latter half of Appendix F. The American will be astonished to find that Brazil annually exports six times as much to the United States as she imports from the Great Republic; that his country is only sixth in the trade with Brazil; and he will not be astonished at one of the reasons for this, (which he may deem undue preponderance of the commerce of Brazil with the old world,) when he learns that Europe maintains steamship lines that annually make three hundred round trips to Brazil, while the United States has to meet this competition with one line of steamers, making yearly twelve round trips. Many important events are treated of which have occurred since the issue of the eighth edition, e.g. the successful close of the Paraguayan war (pages 352-553); the Emancipation Act and the subject of slavery (pp. 132-139 and Chapter Xxvtt1.); the triumph of the civil over the ecclesiastical law in 1874 and 1875 (veferred to in Chapter 1x. and Appendix A); the tours of the Emperor to Europe and America (Chapter XXvut.); Brazil be- fore the world at the Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia Prerace To THe Ninta Epition. Vv (Chapter Xxvm1.) ; and the enterprise (pp. 456, 457) for develop- ing the resources of Western Brazil and Bolivia by a railway around the Falls of the Madeira, and by the navigation of the Marmore. Apropos of this last subject, the authors learn that while this work is passing through the press, the hindrances (veferred to in Chapter Xxu1.) to this great enterprise for opening up the remote portions of Brazil and Bolivia have disappeared. The large trust fund of four millions of dollars deposited by the company in England “ has been decided,” says a recent issue of the New York Herald,‘ by three irrevocable decrees of the British Court of Chancery, to be available for the payment of the con- tractor’s certificates, and places the Madeira and Marmore Com- pany above the reach of those who would gladly ruin it. To the indefatigable energy of Colonel Church, and the business ability and pluck of the Messrs. Collins, are due the success that has attended this grand scheme for developing the resources of Brazil and Bolivia.” The facts on pages 424-425, concerning Gomes, the Brazilian musical composer, who has achieved fame in Europe, will be new to most readers. It is an interesting coincidence that the first musical composer of the western Continent should come from the land where repose the remains of Marcos Portugal, the composer of the famous “* Portuguese Hymn,” a tune sang in every Christian land.* The article on the yellow fever (Appen- dix D) will have a new interest for the medical reader, in view of the recent ravages of that disease in North America. * It is astonishing to find amongst the English and American compilers of “Hymnals,” “Sacred Songs,” and “ Church Melodies,” that they all fall into the error of attributing that grand and beautiful tune (called in England and America the “ Portuguese Hymn”’) to Redding, an English composer, who was born in the latter part of the seventeenth century, and died a century and a half ago. Marcos Portugal, who composed that tune for church music, died at Rio de Janeiro forty- five years ago. He composed much sacred music and several operas — the latter were often played in the first quarter of this century, in Portugal and in Italy. Some try to explain the name (“ Portuguese Hymn”’) by saying that the elder Novello, in London, arranged Redding’s (?) composition for the services of the Portuguese Chapel. Marcos Portugal, who was Chapel-Master of the King of Por- tugal, composed the tune to the words beginning “ Adeste fideles ; ” and it was sung during the offertory in the Roman Catholic Church. — J. C. F. vi PREFACE TO THE NINTH EpiTION. Several full-page illustrations have been added, which cannot but enhance the value of this edition. The new portrait of the Emperor, engraved on steel, is from the last portrait taken of His Majesty in Europe, in 1877, and was sent by him, with his autograph, to the junior author. While Dom Pedro II. is an exceedingly healthy and energetic man, his hair and beard are prematurely gray, and give him the appearance of a person of greater age. He was fifty-three years old on Dee. 2, 1878, and has ruled, either by regents or in person, forty-eight years, a longer period than any other living monarch. The portrait of the Emperor when he was twenty-eight, has been retained as a matter of history. Amongst the illustrations are the portraits of the Visconde do Rio Branco, an eminent Brazilian statesman, who has often been premier; of Sr. Saldanha Marinho, the well-known advocate, deputy, and Grand-Master Mason of Brazil; and of Sr. Carlos Gomes, the composer of the Guarany, which is at present esteemed one of the finest leading operas on the Continent of Europe. The likenesses of the Visconde do Rio Branco (Chapter Xxvul.), and of Saldanha Marinho (Chapter X.), are given because they are representative men in the conservative and liberal parties. It is almost needless to add that an entirely new Index has been prepared for this Edition. The experience of the authors in Brazil, and also in Portugal, extends over a long period, and they have endeavored conscien- tiously and impartially to give their views of the country and its people. They have had no motives to do otherwise. While they have not spared what they deemed faults, whether in religion, slavery, or other matters, they have not withheld praise when due, and it has not been from intention if they have failed to bring out the good points of the Brazilians. To foreign mer- chants in Brazil who have been unsuccessful, or to travellers hastening through the country, ignorant of the Portuguese and French languages, and never associating with the inhabitants, PreFack To THE NintH EpItion. vil the descriptions of those who have resided long in the Empire, or have travelled extensively through it, seem overwrought. One must always bear in mind the origin of the Brazilians, their newness among the nations of the earth, and the fact that the only true mode of comparing Brazil is not to measure her prog- ress with the United States, England, or France, but with the countries of America whose inhabitants are of the Latin race. To have detailed with only an ordinary degree of minuteness the changes and progress of Brazil for the last ten years, would alone require a large volume. As it is, there have been, of the emendations, by additions, by notes and by appendices, nearly one hundred pages, if in the ordinary text, of new matter printed in this edition. In some cases, letters and itineraries are retained, irrespective of date, because they illustrate manners and cus- toms that remain im statu quo, while they give descriptions of tropical nature, which is ever beautiful and unchanging. The thanks of the authors are especially due for aid and cor- rections, in preparing this edition, and for many other favors, to Dr. J. C. Rodrigues, a Brazilian gentleman of great worth who resides in New York, and who is the editor and proprietor of two most important and earnest papers in Portuguese, the Novo Mundo and the Revista Industrial; to Mr. Hitch, a partner in the house of Henry Forster & Co., Pernambuco ; to Mr. O. C. James, of Rio de Janeiro; and to E. F. Hodges, M.D., of Boston, Mass. New York, Jan. 1, 1879 \ _— PW SNM e i PREFACE. Tue popular notion of Brazil is, to a certain extent, delineated in the accompanying side-illustrations. Mighty rivers and virgin forests, palm-trees and jaguars, anacondas and alligators, howling monkeys and sereaming parrots, diamond-mining, revolutions, and earthquakes, are the com- ponent parts of the picture formed in the mind’s eye. It is probably hazarding no- thing to say that a very large majority of general readers are better acquaint- ed with China and India than with Brazil. How few seem to be aware that in the distant Southern Hemisphere is a stable constitutional mon- archy, and a growing na- tion, occupying a territory of greater area than that + of the United States, and haf ; ~ ae that the descendants of the 4 PREFACE. ‘ Portuguese hold the same relative position in South Aierica as the descendants of the English in the northern half of the New World! How few Protestants are cognizant of the fact that in the territory of Brazil the Reformed religion was first proclaimed on the Western Continent! The following work, by two whose experience in the Bra- zilian Empire embraces a period of twenty years, endeavors faithtully to portray the history of the country, and, by a nar- rative of incidents connected with travel and residence in the land of the Southern Cross, to make known the manners, customs, and advancement of the most progressive people south of the Equator. While “Itineraries” relating to journeys of a few months in various portions of the Empire have been recently published, no general work on Brazil has been issued in Europe or America since the ‘‘Sketches’’ of the senior author, (D. P. K.,) which was most favorably received in England and the United States, but has long been out of print. Although the present volume is the result of a joint effort, the desire for greater uniformity caused the senior author to place his contributions in the hands of his junior colleague, (J.C.F.,) with the permission to use the name of the former in the third person singular. The amount of matter from each pen is, however, more nearly equal than at first sight would appear. The authors have consult- ed every important work in French, German, English, and Portuguese, that could throw light on the history of Brazil, PREFACE, 5 and likewise various published memoirs and discourses read before the flourishing “ Geographical and Historical Society ” at Rio de Janeiro. For statistics they have either personally examined the Imperial and provincial archives, or have quoted directly from Brazilian state papers. The numerous illustrations are, with few exceptions, either from sketches, or photographic views taken on the spot. All have been faithfully as well as skil- fully executed by Messrs. Van Ingen & Snyder, of Philadelphia. The accompanying map, prepared by Messrs. G. W.& C. B. Colton & Co. is probably the best ever pub- lished of an Empire which has never been surveyed. In 1855 the junior author travelled more than three thousand miles in Brazil, making corrections of this map as he journeyed. Note For 1879. By aslip of the graver, Tabatinga, on the Amazon, in Brazil, has been made on the map to belong to Peru. The error was not discovered until the edition of the otherwise very correct map was worked off. NOTES FOR THOSE GOING TO BRAZIL. TuE Portuguese language is universally spoken in Brazil. It is pot a dialect of the Spanish, but is a distinct tongue: as Vieyra says, it is the eldest daughter of the Latin. Portuguese and French are the Court languages. One-sixth of the population of large cities and towns speak French. Those acquainted with the French. Italian. or Spanish easily acquire the Portuguese. English is taught in all the higher schools. The best work for conveying a true knowledge of English and American literature to Brazilians and Portuguese is the “ Chrestomathia da Lingua Inglesa "’ by Sr. J.C. Rodrigues (A. 8. Barnes & Co.,New York). While Messrs. Trubner & Co. in London, and the Messrs. Appleton, in New York, have published manuals for learning the Portuguese, it may be of advantage to state that if an Englishman or Anglo-American can give to the vowels the Continental sound, learn the contractions, accents, &c¢., and the peculiarities of two or three consonants he will find the Portu- guese the easiest of all foreign tongues. The termination fo is pronounced almost like own in the English word noun. Words ending in Ges are pronounced as if an n were inserted between the e and thes. Thus, Camées, English Camoens. Terminations ¢7 and im are very nearly pronounced like eng and ing in English: e.g. Jerusalem is pronounced Jerusaleng. X has the force of Si; thus, one of the great affluents of the Amazon, Xingu, is pronounced Shingt. The word Dom, (dominus,) which always precedes the name of the Emperor. is not used indiscrimi- nately like the Don of the Spanish, but is a title applied by the Portuguese and their descendants only to monarchs, princes, and bishops. One miireis, (a thousand reis,) about fifty-six cents, or two shillings and sixpence English. The five hundred reis, — about three dollars. A conto of reis is little more than £112 Clothes, of course, should be of a character adapted to the tropics; but always take some woollen gurments, for in the interior, and south of Bahia, the thermometer often indicates 60° Fahrenheit It hardly need be added that a dress-coat is indispensable for those going to the palace. All personal effects, like wearing apparel, are admitted duty free; but the traveller would do well to remember that he should not be overstocked with cigars. There are many drawbacks at the custom-house in favor of goods belonging to emigrants, as agricultural implements, machinery, &c , &e. (vide page 333 and the concluding chapter of this work.) As to the ParENT Laws, mode of obtaining certain privileges for inventions, &c. William V_ Lid- gerwood, Esq., (United States Charge d’Affaires in 1865-66,) can give more information than any other person in Brazil. The Lidgerwood Manufacturing Company (of which Mr William V_ Lidgerwood is & member) manufactures and imports plantation and agricultural machinery for all parts of Brazil. Undoubtedly the strongest and oldest established American house in Brazil is that of llenry Forster & Co., of Pernambuco. Messrs. J, M. Wright & Co., and Messrs. Wright & Co., of Rio de Janeiro, are the largest commission and exporting American merchants at the capital. At Para, Mr. Bond is the representative of American commerce on the Amazon. Mr. O. C. James, the suceessor of Messrs. Fales & Duncan, is the agent of the Novo Mundo at Rio de Janeiro; and executes general commissions, including railway plant. Garnier at Rio de Janeiro and Guelph de Lailhacar at Pernambuco keep English and American standard works. Hotels in Brazil are not equal to those in Europe or the States. At Rio all have high prices, ranging, according to room, from ten shillings English to £1. The Exchange Hotel and Hotel dos Estrangeiros are the best English hotels in the capital. Hotel d’Europa is the best French hotel, Bennett's, an hour from Rio, is the most comfortable place in Brazil. In Bahia, [Hotel Furtin is a good restaurant, and convenient to those arriving from sea. At Pernambuco, the ITotel Universel has the same recommendations. The hotels of Bahia and Pernambuco are small, compared with those of Rio, The prices of 1855 (pages 295 and 296) are from one-third to one-half higher in 1866, — except at Petropolis, at which place are several good hotels. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. AGE The Bay of Rio de Janeiro—Historic Reminiscences—First Sight of the Tropics— Entrance to the Harbor—Night-Scenes—Impressions of Beauty and Grandeur— Gardner and Stewart—The Capital of Brazil—Distinetion of Rio de Janeiro........ 13 CHAPTER IL. Landing—Hotel Pharoux—Novel Sights and Sounds—The Palace Square—Rua Direita — Exchange— The “ Team” — Musical Coffee-Carriers — Custom-House— Lessons in Portuguese, and Governor Kent’s Opinion of Brazil—Post-Office—Dis- like of Change—Senhor José Maxwell—Rua do Ouvidor—Shops and Feather- Flowers—The Brazilian Omnibus can be full—Narrow Streets and Police-Regu- lations—A Suggestion to relieve Broadway, New York— Passeio Publico—Bra- zilian Politeness—The ‘“‘ Gondola’”—The Brazilian imperturbable—Lack of Hotels = Piret Night in Bio dé danglr0cicccomsdceninesaiadiuseaancaverecenneaendanicena ieee 24 CHAPTER IL]. Discovery of South America—Pinzon’s Visit to Brazil—Cabral—Coelho—Americus Vespucius—The Name “ Brazil” —Bay of Rio de Janeiro—Martin Affonso de Souza —Past Glory of Portugal—Coligny’s Huguenot Colony—The Protestant Banner first unfurled in the New World—- Treachery of Villegagnon — Contest between the Portuguese and the French—Defeat of the Latter—San Sebastian founded— Cruel Intolerance—Reflections.........ccssscsessesscessccssecevccrscecescrcceees sossceesesccensece 46 CHAPTER IY. Early State of Rio—Attacks of the French—Improvements under the Viceroys— Arrival of the Royal Family of Portugal—Rapid Political Changes—Departure of Dom John VI.—The Viceroyalty in the Hands of Dom Pedro—Brazilians dis- satisfied with the Mother-Country—Declaration of Independence—Acclamation of Dom Pedro as Emperor.....ccccessesceecececeesnee seeeseeneseeeee seaeneee ep neaes Sods ateaee eauceuee - 6) CHAPTER V. The Andradas—Instructions of the Emperor to the Constituent Assembly—Dom Pedro I. dissolves the Assembly by Force—Constitution framed by a Special Com- mission—Considerations of this Document—The Rule of Dom Pedro I.—Causes of Dissatisfaction—The Emperor abdicates in favor of Dom Pedro IT.......... 73 8 CoNnTENTS. CHAPTER VI. PAGE The Praia do Flamengo—The Three-Man Beetle — Splendid Views —The Man who cut down a Palm-Tree — Moonlight — Rio “ Tigers ’’ — The Bathers — Gloria Hill — Evening Scene — The Church — Marriage of Christianity and Heathenism— A Ser- mon in Honor of Our Lady — Festa da Gloria— The Larangeiras — Ascent of the Corcovado — The Sugar-Loaf...cccsecssescssessseseseeneeseeseesssssensssnsssencensensencensecesnssscanee sa eenes CHAPTER VI. Brotherhoods — Hospital of San Francisco de Paula—The Lazarus and the Rattle- snake — Misericordia — Sailor’s Hospital at Jurujuba — Foundling-Hospital — Re- colhimento for Orphan-Girls —New Misericordia— Asylum for the Insane — José d’Anchieta, Founder of the Misericordia — Monstrous Legends of the Order —Friar John d’ Almeida — Churches — Convents..c...ccccsssessessssercnssrsseeseecrerececeananeecusenneneensesenees CHAPTER VII. Illumination of the City — Early to Bed — Police —Gambling and Lotteries —Muni- cipal Government — Vaccination— Beggars on Horseback — Prisons — Slavery — Brazilian Laws in favor of Freedom — The Mina Hercules — English Slave-Holders — Slavery in Brazil Doomed CHAPTER IX. Religion — The Corruption of the Clergy — Monsignor Bedini — Toleration among the Brazilians — The Padre — Festivals — Consumption of Wax — The Intrudo — Pro- cessions — Anjinhos — Santa Priscilliana — The Cholera not cured by Processions..... CHAPTER X. The Home-Feeling — Brazilian Houses — The Girl — The Wife — The Mother — Moorish Jealousy — Domestic Duties — Milk-Cart on Legs — Brazilian Lady's Delight — Her Troubles — The Marketing and Watering — Kill the Bixo --Boston Apples and Ice — Family Recreations — The Boy — The Collegio —Common-Schools — Highest Aca- demies of Learning — The Gentleman — Duties of the Citizen — Elections — Political Parties — Brazilian Statesmen CHAPTER NI. Praia Grande — San Domingo — Sabbath-Keeping — Mandioca — Ponte de Area — View from Inga — The Armadillo — Commerce of Brazil — The Finest Steamship Voyage in the World — American Seamen's Friend Society —The English Cemetery — Eng- lish Chapel — Brazilian Funerals — Tijuca — Bennett’s — Cascades — Excursions — Botanical Gardens — Am Old Frietid — Hotties: sen ssssvsissncisascccctasenscavecae cveeavesevaiecsasavas CHAPTER XII. The Campo Santa Anna— The Opening of the Assemblea Geral — History of Events succeeding the Acclamation of Dom Pedro II.— The Regency — Constitutional Reform — Condition of Political Parties before the Revolution of 1840 — Debates in the House of Deputies — Attempt at Prorogation — Movement of Antonio Carlos — Deputation to the Emperor— Permanent Session — Acclamation of Dom Pedro's 86 107 140 CoNTENTS. Majority—The Assembly’s Proclamation — Rejoicings —New Ministry — Public Congratulations—Real State of Things—Ministerial Programme—Preparations for the Coronation—Change of Ministry —Opposition come into Power—Coronation postponed—Splendor of the Coronation—Financial Embarrassments—Diplomacy —Dissolution of the Camara—Pretext of Outbreaks—Council of State—Restora- tion of Order—Sessions of the Assembly—Imperial Marriages—Ministerial Change —Present Condition......cccceccseeeeees pus ts heeds bah bare se O00 veeereccerecees CHAPTER XIII. Tbe Emperor of Brazil—His Remarkable Talents and Acquirements—New York Historical Society—The First Sight of D. Pedro II.—An Emperor on Board an American Steamship—Captain Foster and the “ City of Pittsburg’—How D. Pedro IL. was received by the ‘‘ Sovereigns”—An Exhibition of American Arts and Manu- factures—Difficulties overcome—Visit of the Eperor—His Knowledge of American Authors—Success among the People—Visit to the Palace of S. Christovao—Long- fellow, Hawthorne, and. Websters. ...csvsascscescesicvacesacecesessess oocess occovssseosece aaeive rect CHAPTER XIV. Brazilian Literature—The Journals of Rio de Janeiro—Advertisements—The Freedom of the Press—Effort to put down Bible-Distribution—Its Failure—National Library —Museum—Imperial Academies of Fine Arts—Societies—Brazilian Historical and Geographical Institute—Administration of Brazilian Law—Curious Trial.........00 CHAPTER XV. The Climate of Brazil—Its Superiority to other Tropical Countries—Cool Resorts— Trip to St. Alexio—Brazilian Jupiter Pluvius—The Mulatto Improviser—Sydney Smith’s ‘“ Immortal” Surpassed—A Lady’s Impressions of Travel—An American Factory—A Yankee House—The Ride up the Organ Mountains—Forests, Flowers, and Scenery—Speculation in Town-Lots—Boa Vista—Height of the Serra dos Orgdes—Constancia—The “ Happy Valley’—The Two Swiss Bachelors—Youth renewed — Prosaic Conclusion — Todda’s “ Student’s Manual”—The Tapir—The Toucan—The Fire-Flies—Expenses of Travelling—Nova Fribourgo—Canta Gallo —Petropolis..........06 daalandasadenea toon peroshaseccttassesine tas aeieane trees cock seececeee cecceeeseseneee CHAPTER XVI. Preparations for the Voyage to the Southern Provinces—The Passengers—Ubatuba —Eagerness to obtain Bibles—The Routine on Board—Aboriginal Names—San Sebastian and Midshipman Wilberforce—Santos—Brazilians at Dinner—Incorrect Judgment of Foreigners—S. Vincente—Order of Exercises—My Cigar—Paranagud —H.B.M. “Cormorant” and the Slavers—Mutability of Maps—Russian Vessels in Limbo—The Prima Donna—An English Engineer—Arrive at San Francisco do Sul CHAPTER XVII. The Province of Paranéd—Message of its First President—Maté, or Paraguay Tea— Its Culture and Preparation—Grows in North Carolina—San Francisco do Sul— Expectations not fulfilled—Canoe-Voyage—My Companions not wholly carnivo- rous—A Travelled Trunk—The Tolling-Bell Bird—Arrival at Joinville—A New Scttlement—Circular on Emigration to Brazile. cesscseeceeseeesecsee see sseeee eee ceeeeeens 9 PAGE 211 231 251 268 320 10 CoNTENTS. CHAPTER XVIII. Colonia Donna Francisca—The School-Teacher—The Clergyman—A Turk—Bible- Distributiua—Suspected—A B C—The Fallen Forest—The House of the Director —A Runaway —The Village Cemetery — Moral Wants—Orchidaceous Plants— Charlatanism—San Francisco Jail—The Burial of the Innocent, and the money- making Padre—The Province of Sta. Catharina—Desterro—Beautiful Scenery— Shells and Butterfliles—Coal-Mines—Province of Rio Grande do Sul—Herds and Herdsmen—The Lasso—Indians—Former Provincial Revolts—Present Tranquil- lity assured by the Overthrow of Rosas and of the Paraguayan Lopez Jr........... CHAPTER XIX. Journey to San Paulo—Night-Travelling—Serra do Cubatao—The Heaven of the Moon — Frade Vasconcellos — Ant-Hills—Tropeiros— Curious Items of Trade— Ypiranga—City of San Paulo—Law-Students and Convents—Mr. Mawe’s Expe- rience contrasted—Description of the City—Respect for S. Paulo—The Visionary HoteleKioop Ori aswwccsssctvexs\svecsosssone ssaunaasunacedeasslessnenvtesuiieceeeoodbeneesipenieeaied secu creas CHAPTER XX. History of San Paulo—Terrestrial Paradise—Reverses of the Jesuits—Enslavement of the Indians—Historical Data—The Academy of Laws—Oourse of Study—Dis- tinguished Men—The Andradas— José Bonifacio— Antonio Carlos— Alvares Machado—Vergueiro—Bishop Moura—-A Visit to Feijo—Proposition to abolish Celibaey—An Interesting Book—The Death of Antonio Carlos de Andrada—High Eulogium—Missionary Efforts in San Paulo—Early and Present Condition of the Province—Hospitalities of a Padre—Encouragements—The People—Proposition to the Provincial Assembly—Response—Result—Addenda—Present Encourage- MEDES....00 seeeeereee avn Weed nero eesicesebe cesieee ese reveseeetervensssnennseeneleneden te cncnsecew 0 seeeeeveveee CHAPTER XXI. Agreeable Acquaintance—Old Congo’s Spurs—Lodging and Sleeping—Company— Campinas — Illuminations —A Night among the Lowly— Arrival at Limeira— A Pennsylvanian—A Night with a Boa Constrictor—Eventful and Romantie Life of a Naturalist—The Bird-Colony destined to the Philadelphia Academy of Natural Sciences—Ybecaba—Sketch of the Vergueiros—Plan of Colonization—Bridge of Novel Construction—Future Prospects......06 ss Bid da Sadie Saas wee eeee be veceeacescedwseencnasee CHAPTER XXII. A New Disease—The Culture of Chinese Tea in Brazil—Modus Operandi— The Deceived Custom-House Officials—Probable Extension of Tea-Culture in South America—Homeward Bound—My Companion—Senhor José and a Little Diffi- culty with him—California and the Musical Innkeeper—Early Start and the Star- Spangled Banner—The Senhores Brotero of S. Paulo—Fourth of July inaugurated in an English Family—“ Yankee Doodle” on the Plains of Ypiranga—Lame and Impotent Conclusion—Astronomy under Difficulties—Deliverance—Return to Rio Qed AGING Jicarcuenesvavayedesareareeszassaiensgaesees aGaeaiteaniseasennn Saipwiaus vena eNeouge vee z o m | = c ° > < J = = a & g oe x ‘* PROFESSORES,” COLLEGIOS, AND ScHOoOLs. 177 ‘The examination was formerly a great anniversary, when the little fellows were starched up in their stiffest clothes and their minds were “crammed” for the occasion. The boys acted their parts, and the various professores, in exaltation of their office, read or delivered memoriter speeches to the admiring parents; and the whole was wound up by some patron of the school crowning with immense wreaths the ‘‘ good boys.” All were good boys, without exception ! The collegio then took a vacation of a few weeks, and commenced again with its boarders, the “very young gentlemen” students. But these things have greatly changed for the better, and many collegios are ably conducted. The principals of these establishments, when gifted with good administrative capacities, reap large sums. One with whom I was acquainted had, after a few years’ teaching, 20,000$000 (ten thousand dollars) placed out at interest. The ‘professores do not always reside in the collegio, but teach by the hour for a stipulated sum, and are thus enabled to instruct in a number of schools during the day. The English language has become such a desideratum at Rio, that every collegio has its professor Inglez. There has recently been a great improvement in the collegios as well as in the public schools. The professores were sum- moned, by a commission under the Superintendent of Public Instruction, to appear at the Military Academy, and there to be examined as to their qualifications for giving instruction. If they passed their examination, which was most rigid, they re- ceived a license to teach, for which they had to pay a certain fee. The principals also were required to undergo an examina- tion, if the commission should think it proper; and they were not permitted to carry on their collegios without a certificate. The educational authorities also asserted their right to visit these pri- vate academies at any hour of the day or night, to examine the proficiency of the scholars at any time during the term, to investi- gate their sleeping-apartments, their food, and whatever apper- tained to their mental or physical well-being. This was not a rere threat, but schools were actually visited, and some were reformed more rapidly than agreeably. The system of “cram- ming” was in a measure broken up, and the Empire thus took under its control the instruction given in the private as well as in 12 1738 BraZIL AND THE BRAZILIANS. the public aulas. This educational innovation at Rio was owing to the energetic measures of the late Visconde de Itaborahy. One of his adjutants in accomplishing this was Dr. M. Pacheco da Silva, who was afterwards appointed Regent of the Imperial College of Pedro II. at Rio de Janeiro. The note of reform was sounded, every duty connected with teachers or scholars was fully investigated, and the revolution was made, notwithstanding the complaints of professores who were degraded as incompetent, and parents who found their children rigidly examined and only promoted in the public schools after convincing proofs of real progress. There is a common-school system throughout the Empire, more or less modified by provincial legislation. The General Government during the years 1854-55 educated 65,413 children. How many more were educated in private schools I have no means of knowing. In the report of the Minister of the Empire for 1871, the tables of which were systematized by Dr. J. C. Rodrigues in the Novo IJundo for October, 1872, I find that there were in the 4.457 schools of every grade, whether public or private, 153,950 scholars, of which number 109,699 belong to the public schools. In 1876, the Government published the statistics of the schools for 1875, at which time, the report says, ‘* there were 5,890 schools, both public and private, for primary and secondary education, frequented by 187,915 scholars.” This increase has certainly either been very rapid, or the statistics of 1871 were defective. Dr. Rodrigues has written very feelingly and impartially on the education of his native land, and has shown by comparative statistics, with the United States and Europe, that Brazil is lamentably behind-hand in the education of the people. Slavery has brought with it an immense amount of ignorance elsewhere as well as in Brazil, and the Empire has that, and, except ou the sea- coast, a sparse population to contend with. Great credit is to be 8, Dr. Leoncio de Car- valho, for promoting important and liberal reforms in publie edu- given to the Minister of the Empire in 18 cation. Great ignorance prevails in a large portion of the population, and, though many years may elapse before a tolerable degree of know- ledge will be properly diffused, yet the beginning has been made, and the French proverb is true in this as in other things, ‘+ Ce n'est que le premier pas qui coite.” CoLLEeGIo oF Pepro II. 179 In the city of Rio, instruction can be divided into the following classes :—the primary, the secondary, (instrugdo secundaria,) and the private schools, (collegios.) The College of Pedro IL. the Military and Naval Academies, the Medical College, and the Theological Seminary of St. Joseph, are also under the direction of the State. In 1876, the total number of scholars in Rio was 17,279. Through some one of these establishments the juvenile Brazilian ascends the hill of knowledge. An institution already referred to, which of late has awakened more interest than any other in the capital of Brazil, was organized in the latter part of 1837, under the name of Collegio de Dom Pedro II. It is designed to give a complete scholastic education, and corresponds, in its general plan, to the lyceums established in most of the provinces, although in endowment and patronage it is probably in advance of any of those. There was at the opening an active competition for the professorships, eight or nine in number. All of them are said to have been creditably filled. The concourse of students was very considerable from the first organization of the classes. A point of great interest connected with this institution is the circum- stance that its statutes provide expressly for the reading and study of the Holy Scriptures in the vernacular tongue. For some time previous to its establishment, copies of the Scriptures had been used in the other schools and seminaries of the city, where they were not likely to be less prized after so worthy an example on the part of the Emperor’s College. The Rev. Mr. Spaulding (who was the clerical colleague of Dr. Kidder at Rio de Janeiro) had an application to supply a professor and an entire class of students with Bibles; to which he cheerfully acceded, by means of a grant from the Missionary and Bible Societies. The Military and Naval Academies are for the systematic in- struction of the young men destined to either branch of the public service. At fifteen years of age, any Brazilian lad who under- stands the elementary branches of a common education, and the French language so ag to render it with facility into the national idiom or Portuguese, may, on personal application, be admitted to either of these institutions. I have never witnessed a more in- teresting scene than the assembling of these young men for their 180 BrazIL AND THE BRAZILIANS. morning recitations. It carried me back to the Northern uni- versities, so much vigor and spirit did the Brazileiro students manifest in their sports and repartees, or in their explanations to each other of difficult points of geometry and engineering which were soon to be brought before their professors. The regular army of Brazil is 16,000 men in peace, and 32,000 in war. The national guard that formerly existed, was dissolved until it shall be reorganized after a new census. The Naval Academy was formerly on board a man-of-war at anchor in the harbor, and introduced its pupils at once to life upon the water. 1865, the academy is removed to the city. The Imperial Academy of Medicine occupies the large build- ings near the Morro do Castello, and is attended by students in the different departments, to the number of more than three hun- dred. A full corps of professors, several of whom have been edu- cated in Europe, occupy the different chairs, and, by their reputa- tion, guarantee to the Brazilian student an extensive course of lectures and study. The institution is in close connection with the Hospital da Misericordia, which at all times offers a vast field for medical observation. The Theological Seminary of St. Joseph has less attraction for the Brazilian youth than any other educational establishment at Rio. The young Brazileiro, (of course we speak of the gentleman’s son,) after leaving his collegio, enters the Medical Academy, or, having a warlike inclination, becomes a middy or a cadet, or he possibly may enter the Seminary of St. Joseph. If he has a legal turn, he is sent to the Law Schools at S. Paulo or Pernambuco. The young Brazilian likes nothing ignoble: he prefers to have a gold lace around his cap and a starving salary to the cares and toils of the counting-room. The Englishman and German are the wholesale importers, the Portuguese is the jobber, the Frenchman is the coiffeur and fancy dealer, the Italian is the pedlar, the Portu- guese islander is the grocer, the Brazilian is the gentleman. Every place in the gift of the Government is full of young attachés, from the diplomatic corps down to some petty office in the custom- house. The Brazilian, feeling himself above all the drudgery of life, is a man of leisure, and looks down in perfect contempt upon Tue BrazitiaN GENTLEMAN. 181 the foreigner, who is always grumbling, fretting, and busy. The Brazilian of twenty-five is an exquisite. He is dressed in the last Paris fashion, sports a fine cane, his hair is ag smooth as brush can make it, his moustache is irreproachable, his shoes of the smallest and glossiest pattern, his diamonds sparkle, his rings are unexcep- tionable: in short, he has a high estimation of himself and his clothes. His theme of conversation may be the opera, the next ball, or some young lady whose father has so many contos. In spite of all drawbacks, many of these men, in after-life,— whether in the diplomatic circle, in the court-room, in the House of Deputies, or in the Senate,—show that they are not deficient in talent or in acquirements. They can almost all turn a sentence well, rhyme when they choose, or make a fine ore rotundo speech, echoed by the apoiados of their companions. Some few become fine scholars, and more of them are readers than are generally supposed. Many of them travel for a year or two, and are educated in Europe or in the United States. The interest which the Brazilians, with D. Pedro II. at their head, are now manifesting in learned societies, —whose ranks are recruited from the very class mentioned,—de- monstrates that the “little old men” of twelve have not all turned out “froth ;” though too much of the vain, the light, and the super- ficial must be predicated of the Brazilian, who looks upon cards, balls, and the opera as essential portions of his existence. From such men you would not expect much of the “sterner stuff”? which enters into the structure of great statesmen. Nevertheless, the country has made wonderful progress; and it must be added, that from time to time there have arisen from the lower ranks of society men of power, who have become leaders. There is nothing in the origin or the color of a man that can keep him down in Brazil. It must be borne in mind that the Brazilian thus described is not the portrait of the large majority of the citizens of the Empire, but of one from the higher classes as generally found in the cities. There are exceptions; but the same religion and the same modo of thinking have, to a greater or less degree, given a similarity to all who comprise the upper ranks of society, and from whom come the magistrates, officers, diplomatists, and legislators. Their greatest defect is not the want of a polished education, but of a sound morality, a pure religion. Without these, a man may be 182 BraziL AND THE BRAZILIANS. amiable, refined, ceremonious; but their absence makes him irre. sponsible, insincere, and selfish. As nations are made up of indi- viduals, it should be the ardent desire of every Christian and philanthropist that this Southern people, which have so favorably set out in their national career, may have that which is far higher than mere refinement or education. The duties of the Brazilian citizen are clearly defined in the Constitution and by-laws of the Empire. Each male citizen who has attained his majority is entitled to a vote if he possess an income of one hundred milreis. Monks, domestics, individuals not in the receipt of 1008000 rent, and, of course, minors, are excluded from voting. Deputies to the Assemblea Geral are chosen, through electors, for four years. The Senator, who holds his position for life, is elected in a manner somewhat different from the Deputado. Electors, chosen by popular suffrage, cast their ballots for candi- dates aspiring to the senatorial office. The names of the three who stand highest on the list are handed to the Emperor, who selects one; and thus he who has been chosen through the people, electors, and the Emperor, takes his chair for lifetime in the Bra- zilian Chamber of Peers. There seems to have been great wisdom in all these conservative measures, and their excellencies are the more enhanced when we examine the various laws and qualifica- tions that pertain to elections and candidates in the States of Spanish America. The Chamber of Deputies consists of one hundred and eleven members, and the Senate, according to the Constitution, must contain half that number. The provincial legislators are chosen directly by the people. An election in Brazil is not very dissimilar to an election in the United States. Rio de Janeiro is divided into ten or twelve parishes (frequezias) or wards. A list of voters in each parish is posted up for some weeks before an election, and the Government designates clerks and inspectors for the various freguezias. The elections are held in churches. Upon an American expressing to a Brazilian his surprise in regard to this seeming inconsistency in a Roman Ca- tholic country,—where the importance put upon the visible temple is as great as if it were the very gate of heaven,—no satisfactory reply was obtained. The only theory by which the Fluminensian attempted to account for it was on the supposition that when the ELEcTIoNS AND PouiticaL PartizEs. 183 Constitutional Government was adopted it was deemed advisable to give a solemnity to the act of voting,—that men in the sacred edifice and before the altar would be restrained from acts of violence, and would be otherwise more guarded than in a secular building. Experience, however, has shown that political rancor will ride over all religious veneration; for it is said that on certain occasions, in some of the provinces, the exasperated electors have seized the tall candlesticks and the slender images from the altar to beat conviction into the heads of their opponents. A ballot-box, in the shape of a hair trunk, is surrounded by the clerks and inspectors; the vote is handed to the presiding officer; the name of the voter is checked, and the ballot is then deposited. Groups of people, active electioneerers and vote-distributers, may be seen in and around the church, like the crowds of the ‘ unterri- fied” near the polls in the United States. The Government has great power in the elections through the numerous office-holders in its employ ; but ofttimes it suffers a defeat. The supreme authori- ties have the right to set aside an election in cases of violence or fraudulent procedure. The parties are the zvs and the outs, or Government and Opposition. The party-lines were formerly more closely drawn, under the names of Saquaremas, (the Conservatives,) and Luztas, (the Progressives.) These names are derived from two unimportant freguezias in the provinces of Rio de Janeiro and Minas-Geraes. The elections of 1878 brought the liberals into power. These parties for some years contended for power and principle, and so warm were their struggles that at times they seemed to battle more for rule than for the success of principles. The Luzias endeavored to promote the welfare of Brazil by adopting laws and regulations for which the Saquaremas did not think the country yet prepared. Both struggled for many years, and alternately held the reins of government: at last the Saquaréma party triumphed, and from 1848 to 1864 was at the head of affairs. (1878, parties are now called Liberal and Conservative.) In 1854 the two parties were nearly reconciled, there being few dissidents. This was owing to the wise policy of the Saquarémas. They made very good use of their great influence; they adopted some of the ideas of their opponents; and they promoted to 184 BRAZIL AND THE BRAZILIANS. Government employment a number of the Luzias who were men of acknowledged ability and probity. This reconciliation was mostly owing to the political tactics of the late Marquis of Parand, who was a most skilful politician and a fluent speaker. He was an instance of a man of talent reaching by his industry and energy the highest position in the gift of the monarch and people. He knew well how to employ intrigue, and his moral character was by no means spotless; yet at his death, in September, 1856, party spirit was laid aside, the faults of the man were covered, and the energy and talent of the states- man only were remembered. At this point I will mention some of the leading statesmen and politicians, both dead and living, who for the last half century have wielded an influence in Brazil. Among the distinguished politicians and orators now dead may be counted the Marquis of Olinda, (Pedro de Araujo Lima.) who was educated at the Portuguese University of Coimbra, and who dedicated more than fifty years of his life to the service of his country. He was Regent during the minority of the Emperor, and was at various times either a member, or a chief, of the Cabinet. The Marquis d@’Abrantes, (Miguel Calmon du Pin,) a skilful diplo- matist, consummate financier, and a distinguished orator, was at different periods a member of the Cabinet, and made himself still better known by a volume giving an account of his diplomatic mission in Europe. He died in 1865. Among the veteran statesmen may be mentioned Senator Ver- gueiro, (once Regent during the minority of D. Pedro II.,) who en- deayored to advance the prosperity of his country by promoting, at his own expense, European immigration.