Say eee gt See SS L i) New York State Gallege of Agriculture At Gornell University Sthara, N. B. Library YANNIG ONIAIOSHNVAL YOU GIVI ATAVL THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK RECIPES FOR EVERYDAY USE BY JANET McKENZIE HILL EDITOR OF “AMERICAN COOKERY” ILLUSTRATED BOSTON THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO. 1923 = Copyright, 1914 BY Tue Bosron Cooxine-Scuoot Macazme Co. PRINTERS THE UNIVERSITY PRESS, CAMBRIDGE, U.S.A. PREFACE American cookery has become cosmopolitan in its char- acter. The New England cookery of colonial times has been superseded by cookery that has culled the best from every land and clime. Our markets glean from the whole wide world, to meet the demands of a people assembled therefrom, and cookery depends largely on what is available. Cosmopolitan cookery does not mean complicated ma- nipulation of materials, butit deals largely with the cheaper food-products, together with other dishes than the plain roasted, broiled or boiled joints common in the days of our forefathers. The American Cook Book deals with the matter in hand in a simple, concise manner; and while each recipe is, in general, so written that any one not versed in cookery can carry it out, the beginner before attempting a new dish would do well to make a study of the brief introductory matter given at the head of the chapter in which the recipe is found. Also, in examining a new recipe it is well to note the essentials and the non-essentials that make up its content. Non-essentials are usually added for variety in flavor or appearance, and if not agreeable may be eliminated with- out detriment to the dish; at the same time let no one forget that flavor in food is a prime requisite and it must be brought out or retained in the viand as the case may demand. The world is sadly in need of cooks, men and women, who can take common, inexpensive food-products and so treat them as to bring out their latent juiciness and flavor, and at the same time retain their nutritive properties and render them assimilable. JANET M. Hix. December 1, 1913. Nore. In all recipes in which flour is called for, bread flour (spring wheat) is, indicated when yeast is to be used ; in all other cases pastry flour is to be used. Flour is measured after sifting once. When flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is meant. Unless otherwise indicated, a tablespoonful or a teaspoonful of any designated material is a level spoonful of such material. J.M. CONTENTS CHAPTER Pace I APPETIZERS .. .. ........ 1 II Sours. . ie fehl Sorte ee 11 TE: HGGS: 3. sea -asw. (4 eee Bae as 27 TV Hise =. oe ea = Reece 239 V_ Povuttry, Domestic GrEsE anD Ducks . 60 Vi, UMBATS? go) 4. 4 oO Se Boe : 72 VII Vecetasies, Hominy, Macaroni, Erc. . 100 VIET “SAGADSS 2° asd. Gee ae eG Ges 120 IX Yeast Mixturrs—Breap anp Rotts. . 136 x Quick Hor Breaps .......... 148 XI Caxe anp Frosting .......... 154 XII Pastry anp Pies ........ .. 176 XIII Hor anv Cotp Puppines, Custarps, JEL- LIES, CREAMS, ETC... ........ 186 XIV Frozen Desserts ........... 206 XV PreEserRvES, JELLY, CANNED Foops AND PICKERS: sg ded a BO a eS 218 XVI Miscettangous Recipmss ........ 234 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Table Laid for Thanksgiving Dinner . . . Frontispiece. Opposite page Oyster'Gocktail . 2 be ww we ew we 16 Anchovy-and-Egg Canapés ............ 16 Chaudfroid of Poached Eggs ........ woe aE Sardine Canapés. ... . ...... 17 EggsilaGrant. 2. ...... . (17 Eggs and Onions in Cream Sauce . ..-.... 382 Eggs Opera. .... = .., wh ABO tnd ge a a ee ee BOG 32 Canned Salmon Loaf. ...........2.2.. 32 Canned Salmon Croquettes.........2.2.. 33 Pilauadla Turque .. 2... 2.2... we eee 33 Jellied Turkey. ...... te eile a A ea 33 Veal Cutlets, Pojarski . 2 ww ww we ee 64 Boned Leg of Lamb Studded with Ham. ...... 64 Cold Ham Mousseline .........2...2.. 65 Boiled Leg of Mutton .............. 65 Broiled Egg Plant... ...........2.4. 65 French Artichoke, Hollandaise Sauce. . ...... 80 Cauliflower, Maitre d’Hétel . ......2.22.2. 80 Salsify, Melted Butter... 2... 2... ..... 80 Tomato Jelly-and-Baked Bean Salad. ....... 81 Potato'Salad: 2404 4 suk ek owe ee SS 81 Egg Salad, Aurore... ..........0.2.. 128 Fin de Siécle Salad 2... 2... ee 128 Lobster Salad. 2. ww wee ee 129 Date-and-Banana Salad ........ .... 129 Kugelhopf Kuchen Sliced and Toasted ....... 144 Kugelhopf Kuchen Ready toShape ........ 144 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Opposite page Papovers 2... 145 Fruit-and-Nut Christmas Cakes... ....--: > 145 Little Pound Cakes .. 2... 2... ee eee 176 Clover Leaf Biscuit ...... 2.2.55 2+ 9 5 176 Melba Cups... 2 1 1 ts 176 Little Pumpkin Pies .. .......- + ee 177 Marlboro Tart .. 1... 2.0... 2-50 eee 177 Lemon Sponge Pie. . . 2 ww we ee s 177 Chocolate Charlotte Russe... .. ..... 192 Almond Meringues, with Stan bares and Cream . . 192 Charlotte Russe, with Jelly Roll. .......2.. 192 Poinsettia Wafers . .. 2... .. 2.2.22 193 Ice Cream, Baked Alaska, with Figs ........ 193 Small Graham Cracker Cakes... . ....... 193 € THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK RECIPES FOR EVERY-DAY USE CHAPTER I APPETIZERS Appetizers are served at the beginning of luncheon or dinner and, occasionally, as a prelude to a banquet or a chafing-dish supper. When prepared in individual por- tions they should always be very small; canapés should not exceed two and a half by perhaps one and a half inches in surface. Hors d’Guvres, Italian Style Hors d’ceuvres served after the Italian style are placed in a dish divided into compartments. The dishes have from two to five compartments, and usually there is a dif- ferent article in each compartment. The dish is passed, that each may help himself to what he wishes. A dish of two compartments might be supplied with a savory, as caviare, slices of pickled and smoked tongue, imported sausages in tiny slices, potted meat, and bread in some form. A dish of five compartments might be supplied with two savories, pimolas or olives, bread in some form, green or fancy butter. The various compartments should be daintily and appropriately decorated. Scandinavian Hors d’CEuvre Cut into match-like shreds, an inch long, equal portions of cold, cooked eggs, potatoes and beets, also gherkins 2 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK and anchovies, herrings or sardines; season to taste with salt, pepper and cider vinegar, then stir in enough cream, beaten firm, to hold the ingredients together. Serve on small, carefully washed-and-dried lettuce leaves, a tea- spoonful to each service. Orange-and-Strawberry Cocktail _ Peel the oranges and remove the pulp neatly and with- out having any of the white membrane left upon it; divide it into half-inch pieces, saving all the juice. Hull the ber- ries, wash and dry them, if necessary, then cut into halves. Set the whole asidesto become chilled. When ready to serve, mix the pieces of berry and orange with a very little sugar. Divide the fruit’ among the glasses and pour over it the juice. A little champagne or maraschino may be added with the juice. Grapefruit Cocktail Cut the grapefruit in halves, and take out each section of pulp in as perfect shape as possible; save all the juice; dispose the pulp and juice in cocktail glasses; sprinkle lightly with sifted powdered sugar and set a maraschino cherry above the fruit in each glass. The fruit and juice should be chilled separately before it is put into the glasses. Sherry is often added, but it is no improvement to the cocktail. Clam and Oyster Cocktails Clams and oysters for service in cocktails should be exceedingly fresh, small, carefully washed, dried and chilled; five or six of each constitute one service. Dispose on cracked ice on oyster plates with a small glass in the .center of the plate holding about two tablespoonfuls of APPETIZERS 3 tomato catsup. Additional seasoning, as onion juice, tabasco sauce, paprika, etc., may be added to the catsup if desired. Chilled quarters of small hot-house tomatoes, bits of lobster, parboiled or raw scallops, choice pieces of finnan haddie, etc. are also used in cocktails. Oyster Cocktail Sauce, September Style Chop a red and a green pepper exceedingly fine; add to tomato catsup with a scraping of new onion. The quan- tity of catsup used with the peppers will depend on indi- vidual taste. This sauce is good with lobster, scallops or fresh tomatoes. Crabflake Cocktail in Green Pepper Cups Cut green peppers of small size to form cups, discarding the seeds and the white portion on which the seeds grow. Season tomato catsup to suit the taste and turn two or three tablespoonfuls into each pepper. Set the peppers in the center of individual plates, around them dispose four or five small heart-leaves of lettuce, and on eack leaf set two choice crab flakes. Celery Relish, No. 1 Cut tender heart-stalks of celery into pieces about two inches long. Let crisp in ice water to which a lemon rind or a tablespoonful of vinegar has been added. Pick the fillets from three anchovies, fine, with a silver fork (if put up in salt, freshen in cold water); mix the anchovies with the sifted yolks and the chopped whites of two hard-cooked eggs; stir in enough mayonnaise dressing to hold the in- gredients together. Wipe the celery dry and use as a re- ceptacle for the mixture. 4 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Celery Relish, No. 2 Put heart-leaves of lettuce about three inches long on individual plates. Fill each leaf compactly with tiny slices of crisp celery and bits of anchovy (twice as much celery as anchovy) mixed with mayonnaise dressing. Cover completely with crosswise strips of fine-chopped parsley, sifted yolk and chopped white of a hard-cooked egg. Season the mayonnaise with a little onion juice and cayenne. Spread the mixture lightly with mayonnaise before setting the strips of decoration in place. Plain Sardines for Hors d’CEuvre Service Wipe the oil from the sardines, removing at the same time the skin. If the sardines are large, separate them into two fillets, discarding the backbone. Put a layer of sliced onion in an earthen dish; on this dispose the fillets and sprinkle in half a dozen pepper corns; repeat the layers of onions and sardines till all are used. Mix four tablespoonfuls of olive oil and one of vinegar and pour over the whole. If more dressing be needed to moisten the fish, use oil and vinegar in the same proportion; cover closely and set aside in a cool place. To serve, remove the fillets of fish to a glass dish, garnish with quarters of lemon and sprigs of parsley, peppergrass or cress. Serve at the same time tiny bread and butter sandwiches, pulled bread, bread sticks, toasted bread, etc. Deviled Sardines Use choice sardines; remove skin and bones if neces- sary, retaining the shape; sprinkle them generously with paprika and mustard sifted together; roll them in sifted, soft bread crumbs, then in egg diluted with milk and again in sifted crumbs, and fry in deep fat. Serve on croutons of bread the length of the sardines and an inch wide. APPETIZERS 5 Sardine Canapés, No. 1 Spread lengthwise bits of bread with butter and let brown in a hot oven. When cold spread with sardine fillets, pounded with an equal measure of butter and sea- soned with salt, paprika and a few grains of mustard or curry. Set half a choice sardine, freed of skin and bones, in the center of the paste. Decorate the corners with capers, spread mayonnaise mixed with chopped olives, parsley and chives over the fillets of fish and let chill thoroughly. Serve as a first course at luncheon or dinner. Sardine Canapés, No. 2 Cream one-fourth a cup of butter; beat into it a canned pimiento, washed, dried and chopped fine, half a cup of flaked sardines, a teaspoonful of grated onion, and cream to make it moist; press through a sieve. Pipe on to the edge of triangles or fingers of toasted-and-cooled bread. Set half a sardine down the center; fill one side with chopped white or sifted yolk of egg, and the other with chopped pickled beets. Sardine Roulettes 8 sardines 1 egg yolk, cooked 2 tablespoonfuls butter 1 tablespoonful mayonnaise 10 drops onion juice ; Thin slices hot brown bread 14 a chilli pepper, chopped Hard-cooked yolk of egg or, 1 tablespoonful chopped parsley Lobster coral Wipe the oil from the sardines, remove the fillets, and to them add the butter, onion juice, pepper, parsley and egg yolk, and pound the whole to a smooth paste; add the mayonnaise and mix thoroughly. Remove the outside or crust trom a brick-shaped loaf of hot brown bread (the bread may be made hot by resteaming). Spread the slices lightly with the sardine mixture, and as soon as a slice is spread roll it like a jelly-roll. Set them side by side on a 6 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK serving dish and sift the yolk of egg or lobster coral over the top. Anchovy Medallions Prepare rounds of cold boiled potatoes, a trifle larger than a silver dollar; spread with anchovy butter, set a row of fine-chopped, cooked, white of egg on the edge, and a row of sifted yolk inside with caviare in the center. Serve each on a heart-leaf of lettuce. Oyster forks are provided for eating these. Anchovy Canapés Prepare diamond-shaped pieces of bread two and one half inches by one and one half inches; spread with butter and let brown in the oven. When cool spread with anchovy butter, press a slice of hard-cooked egg in the center of each shape, and pipe anchovy butter around the egg, to fill the space to the edge; pipe a, star of the paste on the center of the yolk. To prepare the paste, freshen a dozen anchovies, if salt, in milk, then wipe dry. If the anchovies are put up in oil rather than salt, wipe free of oil. Remove the fillets from the bones, pound them smooth, add half a cup (four ounces) of butter and pound again, then press through a sieve. Red herrings or smoked salmon may replace the anchovy. Anchovy paste may be beaten into creamed butter, and simplifies the preparation of the dish. The paste put up by Crosse and Blackwell of London comes in small jars. Anchovy-and-Egg Canapés Roll trimmings of puff-paste, left after cutting out pat- ties or a vol-au-vent, to a little less than one-fourth an inch in thickness, and stamp out with a sharp cutter, dipped in boiling water, into diamond or other shapes. Chill and bake till done. Beat one-third a cup of butter to a cream and gradually beat in enough anchovy paste APPETIZERS 7 to tint and flavor as desired. When the puff-paste shapes are chilled, spread slightly with the paste, set a slice of hard-cooked egg in the center of each, and pipe paste on the edge of the “crust;” finish with a figure, cut from a slice of truffle or pickled beet, at the center of the egg, and fine-chopped truffle or beet in the open spaces. If truffle be used, dip the slices of egg in French dressing before setting them in place. Pimiento Canapés Rinse half a cup of pimientos in cold water, and dry on a cloth; then pound smooth, add half a cup of butter and again pound till the whole is smooth, then use to spread on small shapes of toasted or fried bread. Set a slice of hard- cooked egg in the center of each bit of bread and a figure cut from a slice of truffle in the center of the yolk. Horseradish Canapés Grate one-fourth a cup of horseradish, pound with half a cup of butter, and press through a fine sieve. Use this butter to spread rectangular-shaped pieces of prepared bread. Cover the butter with alternate strips of smoked salmon, caviare and herring. Caviare, Mobile Style Select a very small hot-house tomato for each service; peel carefully and take out a small piece from the center of each and set aside to chill thoroughly. When ready to serve, set each tomato on a heart-leaf of lettuce, sprinkle in a little salt and paprika and about five drops of onion juice. Fill with a teaspoonful of caviare, rounding it up above the tomato; sprinkle with about one-fourth a tea- spoonful of lemon juice. Serve small Boston brown-bread sandwiches and olives with this dish. 8 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Stuffed Eggs Cover as many eggs as are needed to provide half an egg for each service with boiling water, cover the dish and let stand without boiling twenty minutes. Heat quickly to the boiling point; at once drain and cover with cold water; remove the shells. Cut the eggs in halves, crosswise, and remove the yolks. Cut the yolks into small cubes; add cubes of cooked chicken, ham and pickled beet, also a few capers. Season with salt, paprika, one-fourth a tea- spoonful of curry powder or mustard, also olive oil and vinegar. Let stand to chill, then drain and mix with just enough mayonnaise to hold the ingredients together. Cut a slice from the egg-cups that they may stand level. Set them on small plates with two or three very small lettuce leaves around them, fill high with the mixture and serve at once. Chaudfroid of Poached Eggs Cook fresh-laid eggs by steaming them in round shal- low cups or by poaching them directly in water just below the boiling point. For five eggs make a cup of chaudfroid sauce and a cup of aspic jelly. Cover the eggs, chilled and set on a plate or board, with the sauce, decorate with small figures cut from thin slices of truffle, then cover the whole with aspic just on the point of “setting.” In the center of a serving dish set a lemon cut in lengthwise eighths, and surround with the eggs and thick slices of tomato cut in quarters and each holding a rounding tea- spoonful of mayonnaise; at equal intervals, near the edge, set choice olives (trim the stem end that they may stand level) and fill in with lettuce shredded in narrow ribbons. Serve as a first course at luncheon or dinner. An egg, a piece of tomato, an olive, a little lettuce and a section of lemon constitute one service.. These may be served on individual plates or passed on a large dish. APPETIZERS 9 Chaudfroid Sauce Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter; in it cook two table- spoonfuls of flour and one-fourth a teaspoonful, each, of salt and pepper; add one cup of rich chicken broth, thin cream, rich milk or tomato purée; stir until boiling; add one-fourth a package of gelatine softened in one-fourth a cup of cold water, stir until the gelatine is melted, then let cool and use as directed on the preceding page. Sardine Eclairs Y{ cup butter 2 tablespoonfuls butter Y% cup boiling water 2 hard-cooked egg yolks Y% cup flour Seasoning to taste 1 egg and 1 yolk 14 cup whipped cream (scant) 4 cup sardine fillets Brown Chaudfroid Sauce Figures cut from truffles and white of egg Aspic jelly Melt the butter in the water over the fire; when again boiling, stir in the flour, and continue to stir until the mix- ture forms a smooth mass in the center of the saucepan; turn into a bowl; beat in the yolk, then the whole egg. With a bag fitted with tube of small opening (half inch or less) press the paste on to buttered baking pans in strips about. two and one-half inches long and three-fourths an inch wide. Bake in an oven, with strong heat below, about eighteen minutes. When done, a cake will feel light when lifted in the hand. When cold, open the cakes on one side and fill with the sardine mixture; cover the flat side of each éclair neatly with chaudfroid sauce; set the bits of truffle and cooked white of egg above; and pour over a little half-set aspic jelly. Chill thoroughly. To make the filling, pound the sardine fillets, butter, egg yolks and seasonings with a pestle, press through a sieve, then fold 10 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK in the cream. To make the chaudfroid sauce, dissolve a tablespoonful of gelatine, softened in one-fourth a cup of water, in one cup of hot brown (white or tomato sauce may also be used) sauce and use when chilled and begin- ning to set. Anchovies may be used in place of sardines. Aspic Jelly for Poached Eggs Soften one-fourth a package of gelatine in one-fourth a cup of cold water, then dissolve in one cup of clarified and highly seasoned chicken broth. Deviled Crackers To two teaspoonfuls of mustard add Worcestershire sauce to form a paste; stir this paste into three tablespoon- fuls of butter beaten to a cream; add also half a teaspoon- ful of paprika or half that quantity of cayenne. Spread the mixture on thin crackers and set the crackers into the oven to become hot and colored slightly. Serve hot with celery, cheese, olives or tomato soup. Deviled Almonds Blanch two ounces of almonds and, at once, cut into shreds; sauté a light brown in clarified butter or in olive oil or let brown in the oven; add half a tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce, half a tablespoonful of chutney, one gherkin, cut in shreds, and a few grains of cayenne, mix thoroughly and serve on rounds or ovals of toasted or fried bread. If toast be used, butter it while hot. Serve as an appetizer at the beginning of meal or as a “ bonne bouche” at the close. CHAPTER II SOUPS The juice of fish, poultry and meat, which is the foun- dation of many soups, is drawn out best in cold water, slowly heated to the boiling point; the cooking should be completed at a gentle simmer. From half to a full hour is needed to produce fish broth or stock. Six to seven hours is needed to produce stock from beef, veal, etc. Stock from left-over bones, roasts, etc., may be made in three hours or less. Twenty minutes to half an hour is needed to extract the flavor of the vegetables and herbs added to soup. One pound of meat and bone to one pint of water gives a rich broth. Stock keeps better without vegetables; vegetable . juices sour quickly. To remove a small portion of fat from hot stock, use blotting or tissue paper freely. To remove small particles of fat from cold stock, use a piece of cheese-cloth wrung out of hot water. Soups made of broth are sometimes clarified. Con- sommé is usually served clear and sparkling as wine. To clarify a broth, allow for each two quarts of broth the whites of three eggs and as many fresh-broken shells as are convenient. Beat the whites until well broken up, crush the shells and mix thoroughly with the cold broth; add salt, the thin yellow rind of a lemon or any additional seasoning desired; set over the fire and stir constantly 12 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK until the boiling point is reached; let boil five minutes, then set to a cooler part of the range to “settle”; skim, strain through a napkin, wrung out of hot water and laid over a strainer. Reheat the soup before serving. Meat broths are sometimes used in Cream soups, but such soups are more often made without them; the foun- dation is a cream sauce and a purée of the vegetable or article from which the soup is named. When making cream soups, combine the cream sauce and the purée at the last moment before serving. Do not boil after the combination has been made. A cream soup should be creamy, but not too thick. Formula for Three Pints of Standard Broth (BEEF, VEAL, CHICKEN, MUTTON OR GAME) 4 pounds meat (one-fourth bone) 4 cloves 4 pints cold water 11% teaspoonfuls sweet herbs (mar- 1% teaspoonfuls salt joram, thyme, etc.) 10 or12 pepper corns, 14 sweet pep- 114 tablespoonfuls, each, carrot, per, or 1 sprig parsley onion, celery Sauté part of the meat in marrow or drippings (the best marrow is found in the hind shin), slowly and care- fully, to avoid burning the meat. Meantime, let the rest of the meat, cut in small cubes, soak in cold water. After the sautéd meat has been added to the soup kettle, let the frying pan stand in a warm place, partly filled with liquid from the soup kettle and thus insure melting from the pan all the browned material that is to give color to the soup. Sauté the vegetables about half an hour before the stock is cooked and add to the kettle with the other seasoning. Rinse out the pan and add as before to the soup kettle. When cooked, strain and set aside to cool. Ifa large quantity of stock be prepared, strain into several dishes, each holding the quantity needed for a meal, and narrow rather than flat, that there may be fat SOUPS 13 enough to form a covering for each. When finished there should be four pints of soup. White soup stock is made without browning any of the meat or vegetables. Clam Bouillon Scrub a peck of clams very thoroughly. Put them in a large kettle with a quart of water, cover close, and let cook until the shells are well opened. Drain the broth from the shells and from the kettle. Let cool a little, then for each two quarts of broth beat the whites of three eggs slightly, and add with the crushed shells of the eggs to the broth. Set the saucepan over the fire, and stir constantly until the broth boils. Let boil about five minutes, then add half a cup of cold water, and draw to a cooler place on the range. After ten minutes strain through a doubled fold of cheese-cloth laid over a colander. Reheat before serving. Clam Broth, Chantilly Style This most refreshing broth may be served hot or cold. Canned broth may be used, or, when fresh clams are obtainable, the broth may be fresh-made from either clams in bulk or in the shells. For clams in bulk, to serve eight, take one quart of fresh-opened clams, two stalks of cel- ery, broken in pieces, and one quart of cold water. Bring the whole slowly to the boiling point, and let boil five minutes. Skim carefully as soon as the boiling point is reached. Strain through a napkin wrung out of boiling water. Season with salt, if needed; add also a little paprika or other pepper. Beat one cup of double cream until firm throughout. Set a tablespoonful of the cream on the top of the broth in each cup. Half chicken broth and half clam broth is preferred by many. To secure the broth from clams in the shell use 14 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK a scant quart of cold water to half a peck of well-scrubbed clams. Put the clams over the fire with the water and let cook and steam until all are opened. Tomato Soup Cook half a can of tomatoes, two slices of onion, two branches of parsley, a chilli pepper, four slices of carrot and half a teaspoonful of spiced herbs, tied in a bit of cheese-cloth, twenty minutes. Strain through a sieve fine enough to keep back the seeds. To the pulp add five or six cups of broth —lamb, beef or veal—and salt as needed. Let boil thoroughly, skim, if needed, and serve. Boiling water with beef extract may replace the meat broth. Economical Rice Soup To one pint of liquid, drained from boiled rice, add one cup of tomato purée and one cup of broth. Chicken broth is the best, but any broth will answer. If not already flavored, cook half an onion and two stalks of celery, cut fine, in two or three tablespoonfuls of butter until lightly browned; add the tomato and broth and let simmer ten minutes, then strain into the rice. Purée of Tomato, Julienne 2 ounces raw, lean ham Uncooked giblets 1 onion, in thin slices 2 quarts water 2 small new carrots, in slices 1 quart tomatoes 1 green pepper, sliced 14 cup flour 2 branches parsley 2 stalks celery 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls fat 1 onion Bones from roast fowl or veal 1 carrot Skinned chicken feet 1 cup string beans Cook the ham, chopped fine, the onion, carrot, green pepper and parsley in the fat (fat taken from the top of a pan of soup is good) until softened somewhat; add the feet, giblets and bones with the water and tomatoes. SOUPS 15 Let simmer an hour and a half; strain through a fine sieve, pressing through the pulp of the tomatoes, but no seeds. Reheat, stir in the flour smoothed in a little cold water and let boil ten minutes. When the soup is first set over the fire, cook the celery, onion, carrot and string beans cut in Julienne shreds, separately, until tender. Add to the soup before serving. Consommé, with Poached Eggs Prepare consommé with beef, veal and a fowl, and clarify in the usual manner. When ready to serve, set a carefully poached, fresh egg in each plate of soup. Or, carefully drain off the white from each egg, when breaking it, and drop the yolks in boiling water, and let cook just below the boiling point until firm throughout. Do not hurry the cooking, as the yolk should be cooked gently until crumbly and mealy throughout. Use the whites for some other dish. Serve one yolk in a plate of soup. Jellied Bouillon (Two Quarts) Have about four pounds of beef from the hind shin; cut it into small pieces; melt the marrow from the bone in a frying pan; in it cook part of the bits of meat until nicely browned. Put the bone and the rest of the bits of meat into a soup kettle and add five pints of cold water. When the meat is browned, add it to the soup kettle. Put a cup or more of the water from the soup kettle into the frying pan; let stand to dissolve the glaze in the pan, then return to the soup kettle. Cover and let simmer four or five hours; add half a cup, each, of sliced onion and carrot, one or two branches of parsley, one or two stalks of celery and let cook an hour longer. Strain off the broth and set it aside, first, if necessary, adding boiling water to make two quarts of broth. Add, also, two teaspoonfuls of salt, 16 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK half a teaspoonful of pepper and an ounce of gelatine softened in half a cup of cold water. When cold and set re- move the fat; break up the jelly with a spoon or silver fork; serve in bouillon cups. After removing all the fat possible with a spoon, wipe the jelly with a cloth wrung out of hot water to take up any particles of fat that may remain. Lamb-and-Tomato Soup 1 quart lamb broth Y4 green pepper in slices 1 pint tomatoes Salt as needed 1 onion, cut in slices 1 tablespoonful cornstarch or po- 14 carrot cut in slices tato flour Cook the tomatoes and vegetables twenty minutes, press through a sieve; add to the broth, heat to boiling point; stir in the cornstarch or potato flour smoothed in water; let boil fifteen minutes; skim, and the soup is ready to serve. Tapioca Soup Heat two quarts and a half of consommé to the boiling point; gradually sprinkle in one-third a cup of any quick- cooking tapioca, stirring constantly meanwhile, and con- tinue to stir until boiling vigorously throughout; then let cook over boiling water half an hour, stirring occasionally. When the soup is done, the tapioca is not visiblein the soup, which it has slightly thickened. Celery Soup Cook one pint of tomatoes, one cup and a half of celery leaves and coarse stalks, a large onion cut in slices, and three or four cloves, a bit of bay leaf or blade of mace tied in two parsley branches, half an hour. Press the vege~ tables through a sieve, add two quarts of broth and let stand until boiling; then stir in two level teaspoonfuls of potato flour, stirred to a smooth consistency with half a OYSTER COCKTAIL. Page3 ANCHOVY-AND-EGG CANAPES, Page 6 CHAUDFROID OF POACHED EGGS. Page 8 SARDINE CANAPES. Page 5 EGGS A LA GRANT. ONE PEPPER OPEN-SIDE DOWN, ONE OPEN-SIDE UP, TO SHOW FILLING, ONE CUT IN HALVES. Page 37 SOUPS 17 cup of broth or water. Let simmer fifteen minutes. Broth made of fresh meat is the best, but that made from the framework and remnants of roast poultry, with a little fresh meat, makes a most palatable soup. Potage a 1’Aurore 4 cup oatmeal 3 sprigs parsley 3 cups water 1 teaspoonful salt 1 quart broth ¥% cup thick tomato purée ¥ onion ¥% teaspoonful paprika 1 stalk celery Simmer the oatmeal, water and broth about two hours; add the onion, celery and parsley, cut fine, and let cook half an hour; add the seasonings and purée, let boil once, then strain through a fine sieve. Dilute with water or broth to the desired consistency. Onion Soup au Gratin or Onion Soup in Petites Marmites Melt half a cup of butter; in it cook four large white onions, sliced fine; stir and cook the onions until they are softened and yellowed, then add three or four sprigs of parsley, two quarts of rich beef broth and a pint of water, and let simmer twenty minutes. Have ready eight petites marmites; into each of these put three round slices of French bread, freed from crust, browned in the oven, or toasted, and then sprinkled with grated Parmesan cheese. Strain the soup over the toast, which will rise to the top of the marmites; again sprinkle the toast with grated cheese and set the marmites into the oven, to melt the cheese and brown it slightly. The soup is now ready to send to the table in the little vessels. If preferred, pick out the parsley and leave the onion in the soup. 18 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Every-Day Pepper Pot Chop fine, two, each, of green peppers, onions and beets. Melt a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan; add the chopped vegetables and stir until the butter is absorbed; add a scant half-pound of fresh tripe, cut into small cubes, and one-fourth a cup of rice. Blanch the rice be- fore adding it to the other ingredients. Add two quarts of cold water (or light white broth) and one or two pounds of veal knuckle. Let simmer nearly two hours. Add three ripe tomatoes, peeled and cut in slices, or the equivalent of canned tomatoes, and let simmer twenty minutes. Remove the veal, skim, season with salt and pepper and serve. Use the veal for hash or some other rechaufiée. Mulligatawney Soup 1 tablespoonful butter 1 teaspoonful tomato catsup 1 onion, chopped 1 tablespoonful rice, blanched Y carrot, cut in Julienneshreds 1 teaspoonful salt 1 branch celery, cut small Y% pepper, chopped fine 1 tablespoonful cooked ham in 3 pints chicken or veal broth cubes 1 tablespoonful potato flour 4% cup tomato in bits (seeds 1 teaspoonful curry powder discarded) ¥% cup cooked chicken, in cubes Melt the butter; add the onion, carrot and celery, let cook five or six minutes without taking color; add the ham, tomato, catsup, rice, salt, pepper and broth; heat to the boiling point, add the potato flour and curry, mixed smooth in water and let simmer half an hour. Add the chicken and serve. Half a raw apple, pared and cut in cubes, is often added with the tomato. Giblet Soup 4 l’Anglaise Have ready two quarts of second stock, made from the remnants of a roast fowl, and the uncooked giblets, neck, ends of the wings and skinned feet, with a few bits of veal. SOUPS 19 Have alsé one-third a cup of pearl barley that has been cooked tender in boiling water or a double boiler. Cut the giblets into small cubes (less than half an inch); cut also into cubes one onion, one carrot, half a green pepper and two branches of celery. Cut, fine, the leaves of the celery and chop three branches of parsley. Cook these until yellowed in two tablespoonfuls of butter, then add to the broth with one cup of tomato purée or tomato sauce, the barley and the giblets. Tie a clove of garlic, one-fourth a bay leaf, two cloves, and a teaspoonful of thyme in three branches of parsley and drop into the broth. Let cook half an hour. Remove the parsley bou- quet, add two tablespoonfuls of Worcestershire sauce with salt and pepper as needed, and the soup is ready. Black Bean Soup Let one pint of black or dark red kidney beans soak over- night; drain, wash in cold water and rinse and drain again. Set to cook in two quarts of cold water. Slice an onion and let cook until yellowed slightly in one or two tablespoon- fuls of butter. Add to the beans with two parsley branches and half a teaspoonful of celery seed, tied in a bit of muslin. Let simmer until the beans are soft, adding hot water as needed to keep the quantity the same as in the beginning. Press the beans through a sieve; add two teaspoonfuls of salt, one-half a teaspoonful of paprika, one-fourth a tea- spoonful of curry powder and a cup of tomato purée, if at hand. Heat the soup to the boiling point. Beat one- fourth a cup of butter to a cream; gradually beat in two tablespoonfuls of flour, dilute with a little of the hot soup, stir until smooth, then return the whole to the soup kettle and let simmer fifteen minutes. Skim, and the soup is ready. Serve a slice of lemon and a slice of “ hard- cooked ” egg in each plate of soup. Pass croutons with the soup. 90 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Lima Bean Soup (To Serve Five or Six) Cover one cup of dried Lima beans with cold water and let stand overnight; drain, rinse in water and set to cook in about a quart of cold water. Let cook until tender, adding water as needed, to avoid burning. When the beans are partly cooked, slice a small onion and let it cook in three or four tablespoonfuls of fat, taken from the top of a dish of soup stock, until softened and yellowed a little, then add to the beans. Press the cooked beans through a sieve — a gravy strainer set in one piece of a double boiler and a wooden pestle are the best utensils for the purpose. There will be about a pint of purée. Melt one-fourth a cup of butter; in it cook one-fourth a cup of flour, one tea- spoonful of salt and half a teaspoonful of pepper, then add the purée and stir until boiling. Finish with three or four cups of “second broth” — broth made from remnants of roasts, steaks, etc. The neck, feet and giblets of a fowl give a good flavor to such broth. Milk may be used in place of the broth, when Cream of Lima Bean Soup results. The broth should be, when made, flavored with soup vegetables and herbs. Delicate Cream of Celery Soup Break three stalks of celery in inch-pieces and pound in a mortar. Cook twenty minutes in a double boiler with three cups of milk and aslice of onion. Thicken with three tablespoonfuls, each, of butter and flour cooked together. Season with salt and pepper. Then strain, and just before serving add one cup of cream. Simple Tomato Bisque (Soup) Scald one quart of milk with a stalk of celery and two slices of onion. Press enough cooked tomatoes through a SOUPS 21 sieve to make one pint; add half a teaspoonful of salt and pepper as desired. Stir one-third a cup of flour and a tea- spoonful of salt with milk to make a smooth batter; dilute with a little of the hot milk, stir until smooth, then stir into the rest of the hot milk. Continue stirring until smooth and thick; cover and let cook fifteen minutes. Strain into the hot purée, mix thoroughly and serve at once with croutons. Cream of String Bean Soup Chop or pound cold, cooked string beans, then press through a sieve. A gravy strainer set into one part of a double boiler and a wooden pestle are needed for this process. About one cup and a half of purée are needed for a soup to serve seven or eight people. Let one quart of milk scald with three slices of onion and three branches of parsley. Melt one-fourth a cup of butter; in it cook one-fourth a cup of flour, one teaspoonful of salt and half a teaspoonful of paprika; add the purée and stir until boiling. When ready to serve strain the milk over the purée, mix thoroughly and serve at once. Other vegeta- bles, as asparagus, peas, tomatoes, spinach, onions, etc., may be substituted for the string beans. Cream of Lobster Soup Put the body bones of two lobsters and one pound of fresh fish bones in a saucepan; add half a carrot, cut in slices, a small onion in which three cloves have been pressed, two or three branches of parsley, two stalks of celery or a teaspoonful of celery seed, and two quarts of cold water over the fire. Let simmer half an hour, then strain through a sieve and afterwards through a cheese- cloth. Melt one-fourth a cup of butter; in it cook half a cup of flour, half ateaspoonful of paprika and one teaspoon- 22 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK ful of salt; add a little of the broth (cooled to lukewarm), and stir until boiling; add the rest of the broth and let simmer ten minutes. Finish with the yolks of three eggs, beaten and diluted with half a cup, each, of milk and cream. Stir constantly, but without boiling, till the egg is set. Kornlet Soup In a double boiler, set to cook one quart of milk, one cup of Kornlet, half an onion with four or five cloves pressed into it, three branches of parsley and half a teaspoonful of paprika. When hot stir in two tablespoonfuls of flour, smoothed in a little milk; stir constantly a few minutes, then cover and let cook twenty minutes; remove the onion and parsley and press the remainder through a fine sieve. In the meantime, cook two cups of tomato and a teaspoon- ful of sugar and press through a sieve. When ready to serve, add salt as needed, pour the two mixtures together, and serve in cups with a tablespoonful of whipped cream on top of each portion. Cream of Potato Soup Put two potatoes, half an onion, and_a stalk of celery over a quick fire in cold water to cover. Let boil five min- utes, drain, and re-cover with boiling water. When tender, press the potatoes through a sieve together with the water in which they were cooked. (There should be about a pint of water and potato.) Add to this two cups of white sauce, also milk, or white stock, to make of the consistency de- sired. Remove fromthe fire, and stir in the beaten yolk of an egg, diluted with about one-fourth a cupof cream. Pour into the tureen, and sprinkle with a tablespoonful of fine- chopped parsley. Half a tablespoonful of celery seed or a teaspoonful of celery salt may take the place of the fresh celery. SOUPS 23 Cream of Asparagus Soup Cut the tips (an inch in length) from a package of as- paragus. Cook these in salted, boiling water to cover until just tender. Skim from the water and reserve to serve in the soup plates. Cook the rest of the bunch of asparagus, two thick slices of onion with a clove in each, six slices of carrot and two branches of parsley in the as- paragus broth with a quart of white stock (chicken or veal) until the asparagus is tender; take out the onion and carrot and press the asparagus through a sieve. Use a pestle and a gravy strainer with the part of a double boiler into which the strainer fits. Make a white sauce of one-fourth a cup, each, of butter and flour, half a teaspoon- ful, each, of salt and black pepper and three cups of milk. When ready to serve add the asparagus mixture and one cup of cream. Stir while making very hot, but do not let boil. Add the asparagus tips to the plates when serving. Cream of Salsify Soup Cook the salsify in the usual manner. Half an onion, a stalk of celery and two branches of parsley may be cooked with the salsify if desired. Drain the salsify and press it through a sieve. For one cup of purée prepare one pint of cream sauce (one-fourth a cup, each, of butter and flour, half a teaspoonful, each, of salt and pepper and two cups of milk); add the purée, one pint of milk or white broth and such additional seasoning as needed. Cream of Oyster Soup 1 quart milk 1 cup cold water ¥ small onion 1 quart oysters 2 sprigs parsley 1 teaspoonful salt 2 branches celery 1% teaspoonful pepper Y4 cup butter 1 tablespoonful butter 4 cup flour 24 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Scald (over hot water) the milk with the onion, parsley and celery. Stir in the butter and flour creamed together and let cook about twenty minutes. Remove the vege- tables. Pour the cold water over the oysters and look at each carefully to remove bits of shell, if present. Strain the liquid through cheese-cloth, scald, skim and add the oysters; heat quickly to the boiling point; add the thickened milk and the seasonings, and then stir in the butter in small pieces. Cream of Cauliflower Soup 1 quart milk 14 cup butter 1 small onion 44 cup flour 3 branches parsley 1 teaspoonful salt 1 small cauliflower Y teaspoonful pepper Scald the milk with the onion and parsley. Cook the cauliflower in boiling water or white broth until tender. Reserve a floweret of cauliflower for each plate of soup and press the rest through a sieve. Melt the butter; in it cook the flour with the seasonings, add the purée and broth and stir until boiling; strain in the milk; add more salt and pepper as needed. For a more nutritious soup, add with- out boiling two or three yolks of eggs, beaten and mixed with half to a full cup of cream. Bisque of Clams and Green Peas 1 or 2 ounces salt pork 1 pint clams 1 small onion 1 pint boiling water 2 new carrots 4 cup butter 1 branch celery ¥4 cup flour 1 pint green peas 1 quart milk 2 branches parsley 1 cup cream 1 pint boiling water Salt and pepper Cut the pork in bits, cook in a saucepan until the fat is well tried out, but not in the least browned; add the onion, carrot and celery, cut in slices, stir and cook until softened a little; add the peas, parsley and water and let cook till SOUPS 25 the peas are tender, then press through a sieve. Cook the clams in a pint of water five minutes, drain the liquid into the pea purée, chop the clams and add to the other ingre- dients. Cook the flour in the butter, add the milk and stir until boiling; add to the other ingredients, with the cream and salt and pepper. Kornlet Chowder Cut two slices of fat salt pork in tiny cubes (there should be about one-fourth a cup); let these cook in a saucepan until they are light-colored and the fat is drawn out; skim out the bits of pork, add half a small onion, cut in thin shreds, and let cook until yellowed; add three cups of boiling water and let simmer five minutes; then strain over a cup of potatoes, cut in slices, parboiled five minutes and drained. Let cook until the potatoes are tender; add a can of kornlet, a teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of black pepper, and two cups of milk. Let boil two minutes. Serve with browned crackers. Clam Chowder Add a cup of cold water to a solid quart of clams. Pick over carefully, rinsing in the water and removing bits of shell. Strain the water and clam liquor through two’ folds of cheese-cloth. Heat to the boiling point and in it scald the clams. Skim out the clams and keep them hot. Try out the fat from a thin slice of salt pork, cut in bits, and in it cook a small onion cut in thin slices, without browning the onion. Add one-third a cup of flour. Cook until frothy, then gradually add the clam liquor, and, when the mixture boils, strain it over one pint of sliced potatoes, parboiled five minutes and blanched by rinsing in cold water. Add a teaspoonful of salt and half a tea- spoonful of pepper. When the potatoes are tender, add 26 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK three cups of scalded milk (part cream is preferable) and the clams and additional seasoning if needed. Clam Chowder, No. 2 4 ounces larding pork 2 teaspoonfuls salt 2 quarts boiling water 1 teaspoonful pepper 1 cup thin slices carrot ¥% can tomatoes 1 cup thin slices onion 1 quart chopped clams Y% cup thin slices celery 14 teaspoonful powdered thyme 3 cups thin slices potato 1 teaspoonful beef extract Cut the pork in bits and cook until the fat is drawn out. Skim out the bits or leave them in as is desired; add the water, carrot, onion and celery and cook until the vegetables are nearly tender; add the potatoes, seasoning and tomatoes and let cook until the potatoes are tender; add the clams, thyme and extract, and if desired two tablespoonfuls of flour cooked in the same quantity of butter. Stir until boiling. Sprinkle with fine-chopped parsley. CHAPTER III EGGS She who understands the difference between a “hard- cooked” and a hard-boiled egg, and why a baked rather than a boiled potato is preferable for children and inva- lids has found the keynote to all cookery. Eggs Cooked in the Shell Select a granite ware saucepan holding a generous quart. In it heat one quart of water to the boiling point, remove the saucepan from the fire, and lower an egg into it, cover closely and let it stand six minutes, for soft- cooked, and eight minutes for medium-cooked eggs. With two eggs let stand eight minutes for soft-cooked, ten minutes for medium-cooked. To use in garnishing, for salads or to cut in slices for any purpose, after ten minutes, reheat the water to the boiling point, let boil thirty seconds (to harden the outside) then cool in cold water. Without the final short boiling the egg is not shelled or cut in good shape. Poached Eggs Pour boiling water into an iron frying pan and add about a teaspoonful of salt; break in one or more strictly fresh eggs. Add more water, if necessary, that the eggs may be covered. Do not allow the water to boil during the cooking. As soon as an egg seems “set”? on the bottom, run a spatula beneath it, that it may float in the water. As soon as an egg is slightly coagulated 28 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK throughout, remove it with a skimmer to a slice of toast or broiled ham. Serve at once. Shirred Eggs Take as many tablespoonfuls, each, of sifted bread crumbs (soft) and chopped chicken, veal or ham as there are persons to serve. Mix the meat and crumbs to a bat- ter with cream. Season with salt and pepper. Butter small egg-shirrers; spread a spoonful of the batter over the bottom of each dish, break in a fresh egg and pour over a generous spoonful of the batter. Let cook in a moderate oven until the egg is set. Poached Eggs 4 la Benedict Split some large English muffins and toast them a golden brown; on each half set a round thin slice of carefully broiled ham, above the ham set a poached egg, over the whole pour Hollandaise Sauce For four poached eggs beat one-fourth a cup of butter to a cream, add two yolks one after another and beat each in thoroughly; add one-fourth a teaspoonful each of salt and paprika and one-third a cup of boiling water; cook over hot water, stirring constantly until thickened slightly; add the juice of half a small lemon and serve at once. Too long cooking will cause the sauce to curdle. Eggs, Canada Style Select round fresh tomatoes; cut out a piece around the stem end of each, and remove enough of the seeds and pulp to make an opening to hold an egg. Season the inside of the tomatoes with salt and pepper; break EGGS 29 an egg in each. Set the tomatoes in an earthen baking dish; pour a tablespoonful of white sauce over the egg in each tomato. Bake in a very moderate oven about fifteen minutes. Pour a cup of hot white sauce around the tomatoes in the dish and serve at once. One Cup White Sauce 2 tablespoonfuls butter V4 teaspoonful pepper 2 tablespoonfuls flour 1 cup milk or Y{ teaspoonful salt 1 cup white stock Eggs Baked in Potato Nests For each nest allow a potato of medium size. Pare the potatoes, let stand some hours in cold water, drain and set to cook in boiling salted water. When tender, drain and mash. Add salt, hot milk, one or two teaspoonfuls of butter and beat until very white and fluffy. On a buttered baking sheet form thin, small rounds of potato (the potato may be spread on rounds of waxed paper as an easy means of handling the nests); on these rounds pipe potato to make nests deep enough to hold an egg, broken into them. Sprinkle the inside of the nests quite gener- ously with fine-chopped, cooked ham, then break in the eggs. Beat the yolk of an egg; add a tablespoonful or more of milk and use to brush over the edges of potato. Set the baking sheet into the oven to cook the eggs and brown the edges of the potato. A tablespoonful of Be- chamel or brown sauce may be poured over the egg before serving. The nests may also be shaped on individual earthen ramekins, and sent to the table in them. Poached Eggs, with Spinach Chop, fine, cooked spinach. For a pint of well-drained spinach make three-fourths a cup of cream sauce; stir the spinach into the sauce. Do not have the spinach too 30 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK moist. Season as needed with salt and pepper. Dispose the spinach in flat rounds on individual plates. Set a poached egg above each round. Surround with a string of sauce made of chicken or veal broth. Poached Eggs, ‘‘ Times Square’ or New York Style Mix small cubes of cooked chicken breast, fresh mush- rooms and pimientos with a little Mornay Sauce. Spread a thin layer on the bottom of individual earthen au gratin dishes, set a poached egg above, cover with Mornay Sauce mixed with tomato purée and a dash of paprika. Sprinkle with grated Swiss and Parmesan cheese. Set into a hot oven for an instant. Serve at once. Mornay Sauce Make a sauce of three tablespoonfuls, each, of butter and flour, scant half a teaspoonful, each, of salt and pepper, and one cup and a half of consommé, chicken or veal broth. Add one-fourth a cup, each, of grated Gruyére and Par- mesan cheese, and stir until melted. Eggs a4 la Dauphine Set two small slices of toasted bread, well-buttered, on a serving dish; above dispose about eighteen hot, cooked asparagus tips; above the tips set two poached eggs. Pour over the whole a scant cup of Madeira sauce, in which six or eight peeled mushroom caps (sliced or not) have been simmered about ten minutes. Madeira Sauce Cook two tablespoonfuls of flour in two tablespoonfuls of melted butter; add one-fourth a teaspoonful, each, of salt and pepper, half a cup of tomato purée and one-third EGGS 31 a cup of half-glaze (meat broth much reduced by slow cooking), and stir until boiling; add the mushrooms, let simmer, and just before serving add three tablespoonfuls of Madeira wine. Eggs Opera Butter an individual shirring dish; break two eggs into it; set the dish into a moderate oven to remain until the egg-white is slightly coagulated throughout. Set the dish on a breakfast plate; on one side of the eggs, in the dish, dispose half a dozen cooked stalks of asparagus, a teaspoonful of Hollandaise sauce above and on the other side of the eggs group cubes of calf’s liver broiled on one or two skewers, and serve at once. To cook the liver, pour boiling water over a slice of liver, cut a scant three-fourths an inch thick, then cut in cubes; butter one or two skewers and run them through the cubes. Broil over a moderate fire about four minutes, turning each ten seconds. Push from the skewer to the side of the egg. Chicken livers are often used for this dish. Poached Eggs, Lydia Style Chop together an equal quantity of cold cooked chicken and cold boiled potatoes. Use half a teaspoonful of salt for each pint of material, and turn into a frying pan con- taining a spoonful or two of melted butter, salt pork fat or other suitable fat; add a few spoonfuls of milk, chicken broth or water; cover and let cook until very hot, stirring occasionally to avoid the forming of a crust. Turn on to a serving dish. Set four or more poached eggs above and surround with agparagus sauce. To make the sauce use two tablespoonftils, each, of butter and flour, one- fourth a teaspoonful,’ each, of salt and pepper and half a cup, each, of asparagus purée and cream. Or, stir a cup of asparagus tips into a cup of cream sauce. 32 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Eggs Baked with Cheese, No. 1 Stamp out slices of bread half an inch thick into as large rounds as is possible. Take out a thin round in the center of each, spread with butter, cover the butter with grated cheese or with slivers of cheese. Set these into a baking dish suitable for the table. Break an egg on each round, pour over a little melted butter. Cook in the oven. Eggs Baked with Cheese, No. 2 Cook four eggs in the shell, as for slicing; cover with cold water, and when cold remove the shells and cut in thick slices. Have ready about six tablespoonfuls of grated cheese, and a cup of white sauce made with rich milk. Put a layer of the eggs into an earthen baking dish and sprinkle with cheese; continue until both the ingredi- ents are used; pour over the cream sauce; sprinkle on half a cup of cracker crumbs stirred through two tablespoon- fuls of melted butter; set into the oven long enough to brown the crumbs. Eggs and Onions in Cream Sauce (Oeufs a la mode de Caen) Cook four small onions in boiling water until tender, adding salt-when about half cooked. Cut the onions into three slices, each, or if this prove troublesome, into quar- ters, as you would an apple. Cook four fresh eggs in the shell as for slicing; remove to cold water, shell and cut in slices or quarters. Prepare one cup and a half of cream sauce, using three leyel tablespoonfuls, each, of butter and flour, scant half a teaspoonful, each, of salt and paprika and one cup and a half of thin cream. Put the sauce and eggs, with onions, into a serving dish, in alter- nate layers. Cover and let stand in the oven until hot throughout. Serve as the main dish at luncheon or supper. EGGS OPERA. Page 31 EGGS AND ONIONS IN CREAM SAUCE. Page 32 CANNED SALMON LOAF. Page 49 CANNED SALMON CROQUETTES. Page 48 PILAU A LA TURQUE. Page 66 JELLIED TURKEY. Page 67 EGGS 33 Onions and Eggs au Gratin Peel as many small (about the size of an egg) onions as there are people to serve. Let cook until tender in boiling water. Have as many “ hard-cooked ” eggs as onions. For eight onions and eight eggs prepare one cup and a half of cream sauce. Dispose the eggs and onions alternately in an au gratin dish; season with salt and pepper and set a bit of butter in the top of each onion; pour the hot sauce over the onions and eggs; spread over the sauce two-thirds a cup of cracker crumbs mixed with one-third a cup of melted butter and set into the oven to brown the crumbs. Eggs 4 l’Aurore, No. 1 Cook four eggs in the shell, as for slicing. Drain, cover with cold water and when cold remove the shells; separate the whites from the.yolks and chop the whites. Make a cup of cream sauce of two tablespoonfuls, each, of butter and flour, one-fourth a tablespoonful, each, of salt and pepper and a cup of rich milk. Toast from four to six slices or rounds of bread, dip the edges into salted, boiling water and spread lightly with butter. Stir the chopped whites into the sauce and spread evenly over the slices of toast, then press the yolks through a sieve over the whole. Add a few sprigs of parsley and serve at once. Eggs a l’Aurore, No. 2 Prepare as number one, but sift the yolks only over the toast. To remove the yolks cut the eggs, each, in lengthwise quarters or eighths. After sifting the yolks over the bread surround the whole with the strips of white, set at equal distances from each other. 34 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Stuffed Eggs au Gratin Cook in the shell as for slicing. Let cool in cold water; shell and cut in halves, lengthwise. Remove and sift the ' yolks. Have ready cooked ham, chicken or veal, one or more, chopped and pounded to a smooth paste. To the yolks, add an equal measure of the meat, half a teaspoon- ful of paprika, a little mixed mustard, also salt as needed. With this mixture fill and press together corresponding halves of the eggs. Prepare a cup and a half of bread, tomato or cream sauce. Dispose one-half of the sauce in an earthen baking dish; in this lay the eggs and pour over the rest of the sauce. Sprinkle on half a cup of cracker crumbs mixed with four tablespoonfuls of melted butter. Set into the oven, to reheat the whole and brown the crumbs. Bread Sauce To one cup and a half of rich milk, add half a cup of fine, soft bread crumbs and half an onion in which three cloves have been pressed. Let cook in a double boiler about an hour, stirring occasionally. Remove the onion, add one or two tablespoonfuls of butter, a scant half- teaspoonful, each, of salt and pepper, and beat well. Spanish Omelet ¥ onion 1 teaspoonful beef extract 1% green or red pepper pod 1 teaspoonful salt 2 tablespoonfuls raw or cooked ham 4 eggs 2 mushrooms in shreds 14 teaspoonful salt 2 tablespoonfuls butter or oil 4 tablespoonfuls water 1} cups tomato (discarding seeds and 1 tablespoonful butter skin Chop, fine, the onion and pepper; cut the ham and fresh mushrooms in thin shreds; let cook in the two tablespoonfuls of butter or oil till softened and yellowed; add the tomato and let simmer until the moisture is evap- EGGS 35 orated; add the salt and beef extract and set aside until ready to use. Beat the eggs until a full spoonful may be lifted, add the salt and water and mix again. Melt the butter in the omelet pan and turn in the egg mixture. Shake the pan over the stove, to keep the mixture sliding on. it, tipping it, meanwhile, to let the uncooked part of the mixture down upon the pan. When creamy through- out, spread part of the prepared mixture on the top of half the omelet, fold and turn upon a hot platter, surround with the rest of the mixture and serve at once. French Omelet, with Chicken 1 generous cup cooked chicken in half 1 cup chicken broth or inch cubes : rich milk 2 tablespoonfuls butter 4 eggs 2 tablespoonfuls flour Y{ teaspoonful salt Y{ teaspoonful salt 4 tablespoonfuls chicken Y4 teaspoonful pepper broth or water 1 tablespoonful butter Make a sauce of the butter, flour, seasonings and cup of chicken broth or milk, add the chicken and keep hot while the omelet is prepared, in the same manner as the Spanish omelet. Spread part of the chicken mixture over the omelet, then fold and turn on to the dish. Pour the rest of the mixture around the omelet. Puffy Omelet, with Oysters 3 egg yolks, beaten light 1 pint oysters 3 tablespoonfuls oyster broth or water 2 tablespoonfuls butter Y{ teaspoonful salt 2 tablespoonfuls flour Y4 teaspoonful pepper YY teaspoonful salt 3 egg-whites, beaten dry Yy4 teaspoonful black pepper 1 tablespoonful butter 1 eup oyster broth or milk To the yolks add the broth and seasonings, mix, and pour over the whites; cut and fold the whites into the yolk mixture; melt the butter in the omelet pan, turn in the egg mixture, make smooth and let stand on the range 36 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK @ moment to set the egg, then put the frying pan into a slow oven. The oysters should have been brought to the boiling point, the broth drained and strained. Make a sauce of the butter, flour, seasonings and cup of broth and add the oysters. When a knife cut down into the omelet can be removed without traces of uncooked egg, score it at right angles to the handle of the pan; spread one-half with a portion of the oysters and sauce, fold in the scoring, turn on to a hot platter, and pour the rest of the oyster mixture around the omelet. Rice Omelet (Puffy) 34 cup hot boiled rice 14 teaspoonful salt 2 egg-whites, beaten dry Y4 teaspoonful pepper 2 ege-yolks, beaten light 1 tablespoonful butter 1 tablespoonful cold water The rice may be fresh-cooked or reheated, if only the grains be distinct. To the beaten yolks add the rice and seasoning, mix thoroughly; then fold in the whites. Melt the butter in an omelet pan, turn in the mixture, making it smooth on the top. Let the pan stand on top of the range to “set” the egg on the bottom, then move to the oven, which should be of moderate heat. When a knife cut down into the center of the omelet comes out without uncooked egg, score the omelet entirely across the top and at right angles to the handle of the pan. Turn on to a hot platter. For variety, cook the rice in chicken broth or tomato purée, or serve with a sauce in which one or both of these articles is used as the liquid. A little onion juice may be added to the omelet or the sauce. Eggs Scrambled in Double Boiler 4 eggs V4 teaspoonful pepper 4 tablespoonfuls water 1 tablespoonful butter Y teaspoonful salt EGGS 37 Beat the eggs and seasonings until a full spoonful may be lifted; add the water, and beat until well mixed. Melt the butter in a double boiler, add the eggs and stir con- stantly while cooking over boiling water. Turn on to a hot dish while slightly underdone. A tablespoonful of fine-chopped cooked ham, chicken or smoked beef in shreds may be added for each egg; add with the water or stir into the butter before turning in the eggs. Tomato Timbales Beat two whole eggs and one yolk until well mixed; add half a teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, one-third a cup of sifted bread crumbs (soft), two table- spoonfuls of melted butter and one cup of tomato purée. Mix thoroughly. Turn into buttered timbale molds. Set these on many folds of paper in a baking dish. Surround with boiling water. Bake in a moderate oven until the mixture is firm in the center. The water should not boil during the cooking. Remove the molds from the water. After two or three minutes unmold. Serve with cream sauce. Eggs 4 la Grant Allow a green pepper for each service and two eggs for each pepper. Beat one-half the number of eggs to be used until a full spoonful can be lifted, and add one- fourth a teaspoonful of salt for each egg. Into an omelet pan put as many tablespoonfuls of cream as beaten eggs; add the eggs, and scrape and stir constantly until thick- ened slightly. Keep the eggs very soft. Beat the rest of the eggs, season with salt and pour over the scrambled eggs. Use this mixture to fill the peppers. Set the pep- pers in timbale or other molds to keep them upright. Let cook in a moderate oven until the egg is set through- out. Turn on to a hot platter, open side down. Pour 38 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK around half-glaze sauce to which shredded truffles have been added. Half-Glaze Sauce To a cup of brown sauce add a cup of brown stock and let simmer in an open saucepan until the mixture is re- duced one-half. Skim as needed. When ready to serve, beat in one teaspoonful of butter and two or three table- spoonfuls of sherry wine. CHAPTER IV FISH Fish is cooked when the juices are coagulated delicately, or when the flesh separates easily from the bones. Prop- erly cooked fish is always tender. Fish is most appetizing when, as far as possible, all inedible portions are discarded before cooking. As a general rule, an acid sauce harmo- nizes well with fish; if this be not provided, it is well to serve at the same time a salad, as cucumber, or lettuce, with French dressing. Onion juice or a faint suspicion of garlic improves such a salad. Any delicate vegetable or onions in cream sauce are appropriate with fish. Broiled White Fish, Mackerel and Bluefish Oil the broiler thoroughly. Do not have too fierce a fire, as strong heat hardens the fibers very quickly. Cook from fifteen to twenty minutes. Baste with butter once or twice during the cooking. If the fish be thick, the last of the cooking might be done over a dripping pan in the oven. In broiling, turn, after cooking the flesh side ten seconds, the skin side five seconds. With a fork separate the fish from the wires of the broiler, on both sides, then slide to the serving dish. Spread with Maitre d’Hétel Butter. Maitre d’Hétel Butter (For broiled fish, steak or chops) Beat one-fourth a cup of butter to a cream; beat in half ‘a teaspoonful of salt, a dash of pepper and, very 40 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK slowly, a tablespoonful of lemon juice. The heat of the broiled article will melt the butter. For a change add a tablespoonful of fine-chopped parsley with the seasonings. Broiled Scrod Dress a plump cod or haddock for broiling (so that it may lie flat upon the broiler). Put flesh side up in a pan, sprinkle generously with salt, then cover with cold water. In the morning drain, dry on a cloth, and broil in a well- oiled broiler over a clear fire. Baste twice with melted butter. Spread with anchovy sauce, and serve at once. Anchovy Sauce for Broiled Scrod Pound the flesh of four anchovies, preserved in oil, and one-third a cup of butter in a mortar. Then press the mixture through a fine sieve. Melt one level tablespoonful of butter, and in it cook a level tablespoonful of flour and a few grains, each, of salt and pepper. Stir in half a cup of milk or white broth until the mixture thickens, then beat in the anchovy butter and a tablespoonful of lemon juice or vinegar. A tablespoonful of anchovy paste may re- place the anchovies. Brook Trout au Bleu 2 quarts water 3 young carrots ¥% cup cider vinegar 1 onion 1 tablespoonful salt 2 branches sweet basil 4 green pepper 4 branches parsley Shred the pepper, carrots and onion; add the other articles; simmer half an hour, then strain into a shallow broad basin. Ten minutes before time to serve put into the liquid (court bouillon) as many fresh-caught and carefully cleaned trout as the boiling liquid will cover, without ceasing to boil. The skin will shrivel and break; then let simmer from six to eight minutes longer. Drain FISH 41 the fish, dispose them upon a hot napkin on a plate and surround with parsley. Serve Hollandaise or drawn butter sauce in a dish apart. Steamed Salmon To serve eight or ten people buy about four pounds from the middle of a salmon. Use a steam kettle or a fish kettle. Put a pared carrot or potato in the opening of the fish (the weight will hold the fish in an upright position) and set it upon the rack. Pour into the kettle lukewarm, salted water to reach nearly to the rack. Let cook about half an hour after boiling begins. When cooked lift out the rack and slide the fish on to the serv- ing dish. Remove the vegetable and any bones exposed by the contracting of the flesh. Garnish with parsley and slices of lemon. Serve with boiled potatoes and drawn butter, egg, caper or mock Hollandaise sauce. Mock Hollandaise Sauce 4 tablespoonfuls butter 2 cups water, fish or chicken 4 tablespoonfuls flour broth 1% teaspoonful salt 2 ege-yolks, beaten light 2 tablespoonfuls butter 1 tablespoonful lemon juice or vinegar Melt the first measure of butter; in it cook the flour and salt, add the liquid and stir until boiling; add the beaten yolks diluted with a little of the sauce, then stir in the acid, drop by drop, and finish with the butter a little at a time. Baked Bluefish or Shad _Cut the cleaned fish into pieces for serving. The back- bone is often removed before the fish is cut into pieces. Chop fine one small Bermuda onion and sprinkle over a buttered agate pan; set the pieces of fish on the onion; add a few spoonfuls of fish stock and salt and pepper and 42 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK cover with a buttered paper. The paper should rest on the sides of the pan. Let cook about twelve minutes, basting three times. Dispose the fish on a serving dish; strain the liquid in the pan into a cup and a half of Italian sauce and pour this over the fish. Pipe rosettes of mashed potato around the fish and serve at once. Italian Sauce Cook a small onion, chopped fine, in two tablespoonfuls of clarified butter; when tender add one-third a clove of garlic, crushed; stir two minutes, add one-fourth a pound of mushrooms, chopped fine (six small mushrooms), and cook and stir until the moisture from the mushrooms has evaporated; add half a cup of white wine and let reduce one-fourth; remove the garlic, add one teaspoonful of chopped parsley, one cup of brown sauce, one cup of veal broth, one-fourth a cup of tomato purée and salt and pepper as needed. Let boil once. Fresh Mackerel, Baked, Creole Style Split a carefully cleaned mackerel and set into an agate dish; brush over the flesh side with melted butter and set into the oven to bake for fifteen minutes. Cut half a pepper in shreds, let cook in two tablespoonfuls of oil or butter eight or ten minutes, stirring constantly; add one- fourth a clove of garlic, chopped fine, and two tablespoon- fuls of flour; when the flour is absorbed and cooked, add a cup and a half of tomato, half a teaspoonful of sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt and half a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, and stir until boiling; let simmer ten minutes, then pour over the mackerel in the dish and let cook in the oven a second fifteen minutes. Before serving, add six canned mushrooms, cut in quarters. FISH 43 Baked Mackerel, Essex Style Cut choice fresh mackerel in halves lengthwise, and trim neatly. Set, skin side down, in a well-buttered au gratin dish. Remove the skins from two onions and two tomatoes and cut them in slices. Set the slices above the fish, alternating onion and tomato.. Season with salt and pepper and add bits of butter. Bake until the fish is done. Pour over a little hot cream or egg sauce and serve at once in the dish. Cover while baking with a well-buttered paper. Salt Mackerel Baked with Cream Soak a salt mackerel in cold water twelve hours. If convenient, let cold water from the faucet drip slowly upon the skin side of the fish during the whole time. Cover with boiling water, and let simmer about ten minutes, then drain and wipe dry with a cloth. Put the fish in a large shallow agate pan, and nearly cover with hot cream or rich milk. Add also two tablespoonfuls of butter, and cook in the oven until the cream is reduced one-half. Remove to a serving dish carefully. Garnish with parsley and a slice of lemon. Serve with plain boiled potatoes. Fillets of Sea Trout, Baked Skin one large or two small sea trout, then carefully “lift” or push the flesh from the bones in two long fillets or strips; cut these into pieces suitable for serving, having all of same shape and size, also about twice as long as wide. Fold the fillets and trim them to a point at one end. But- ter an agate or similar baking dish; spread over the bottom a small onion, two tomatoes and half a green or red sweet pepper, all chopped rather fine. On this bed set the fillets; cover with a buttered paper and set aside in a cool place. Cover the head, trimmings, bones broken into several 44 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK pieces, part of an onion, three branches of parsley and a branch of sweet basil with cold water and let simmer half an hour. Then take up the buttered paper and pour in about three-fourths a cup of the fish stock and half a cup of Sauterne; sprinkle the fish with salt; return the buttered paper to place and let cook in a moderate oven about twenty minutes. Remove the fillets to a hot dish and cover to keep hot. Strain the sauce; add half a cup of thick tomato purée, and when hot beat in the yolks of two eggs, beaten into one-fourth a cup of creamed butter. Season as needed with salt and pepper, and pour over the fish. Serve at once. Halibut Sauté The halibut should be cut rather less than an inch in thickness and of a length to lie flat in the cast-iron frying pan. In the pan cook half a dozen strips of salt pork, half an inch wide and about an inch and a half long, until the fat is extracted and the remnant crisp and light brown. Remove them to the serving dish and keep them hot. Sprinkle flour or cornmeal and salt ona paper or board and press the fish upon it, dredge the upper surface with the same ingredients; turn and pat the fish until well coated, then set to cook in the hot fat. Let cook until well browned on one side, then turn to brown the other side. Serve with cucumber or other green salad. Have a strong fire until the fish is browned on one side, then lower the heat; re- new for the other side and finish with low heat. The last of the cooking may be done in the oven. The slice of fish should be whole and evenly browned when done. If the heat be’ strong throughout the cooking the fish will be tough and juiceless, cooked properly it is most delicious. FISH 45 Fresh Codfish Fried, New Hampshire Style Have a cleaned fish cut in slices about three-fourths an inch thick. Grate over the slices a little onion juice and sprinkle with lemon juice. Roll in Indian meal seasoned with salt. Cut slices of fat salt pork in cubes or strips and cook in the frying pan over a very moderate fire, to draw out the fat. Take out the pieces of pork to serve with the fish; in the fat cook the fish until well browned on one side, then turn to brown the other side. Serve on a hot dish, one slice overlapping another. Garnish with slices or quarters of lemon and French-fried potatoes. Fried Flounders, Cheese Sauce Remove skin and bones from two large flounders, to se- cure eight fillets from each. Over the fillets squeeze the juice of half a lemon, scrape over a little onion juice and pulp, and sprinkle with salt and pepper; coat with fine, soft bread crumbs (sifted), dip in beaten egg, diluted with two tablespoonfuls of milk, then again coat with crumbs. Fry about five minutes in deep, hot fat and drain on soft paper. Serve cheese sauce in a separate dish. Cheese Sauce Cover the bones and trimmings of the fish with cold water; add an onion, cut in halves, a clove in each half, two or three sprigs of parsley, two or three leaves of sweet basil (dried or fresh), three or four slices of carrot, and a bit of red pepper pod; let simmer twenty minutes, then drain off the broth. Melt one-fourth a cup of butter; add one-fourth a cup of flour and half a teaspoonful of salt and let cook until frothy, then add one cup, each, of the fish broth and thin cream, and stir until boiling; gradu- ally beat in half a cup, each, of grated Gruyére and Par- mesan cheese and two tablespoonfuls of butter. 46 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Fillets of Fish with Oysters (Halibut, haddock, flounder, white lake fish) Have the fillets removed from the fish. Cut these. in size to serve, trim to a point at each end, and sprinkle with salt, white pepper, lemon and onion juice. Cut strips of potato half an inch thick and as long as the fillets are wide. Dip these in melted butter (to facilitate re- moval), and fold each fillet over a piece of potato. Bake about twenty minutes, in a buttered dish, basting with a little fish stock, made of the fish trimmings and the liquor from half a pint of oysters and a few bits of vegetables. Dispose the fillets (first remove the potato) lengthwise on a serving dish, one overlapping another. Set a broiled oyster, seasoned with melted butter, lemon juice, salt and pepper above. Surround with the liquid, in which the fish was cooked, thickened with roux. Garnish with cutlet- shaped pieces of toast and parsley. Fish Timbales 4 cup soft bread crumbs 1 teaspoonful salt Yg cup rich milk V4 teaspoonful paprika Y cup cream 2 cups cooked fish, chopped 2 tablespoonfuls anchovy essence 3 egg-whites, beaten dry Cook the crumbs in the milk to a smooth paste, add the cream and seasonings and mix thoroughly; then beat in the fish and fold in the egg-whites. Turn into a buttered mold. Cook in a dish of boiling water, on many folds of paper, until firm in the center. Serve with Hollandaise, drawn butter or lobster sauce. Drawn Butter Sauce Y{ cup butter Y teaspoonful paprika 4 cup flour 2 cups cold water Y% teaspoonful salt YY cup butter FISH 47 Prepare in the usual manner, adding the last measure of butter, in small pieces, just before sending the sauce to the table. The butter should be beaten in so gradually that none appears on the surface. For lobster sauce add from half to a fuli cup of lobster meat in pieces and stock made of the body bones of the lobster in place of water. Salmon Timbales (Cooked Fish) 2 cups cold cooked salmon, 1 tablespoonful chopped parsley chopped fine Ys teaspoonful salt 2 tablespoonfuls butter 4 teaspoonful paprika ’ 2 tablespoonfuls bread crumbs 2 eggs ¥% cup white stock or milk Melt the butter, add the crumbs and stir until well blended; add the liquid, parsley and seasonings, and stir until boiling; add the fish and the eggs, beaten without separating; turn into buttered molds; let cook on several folds of paper in a dish surrounded with boiling water. Serve, turned from the molds, with a sauce made of one- fourth a cup, each, of butter and flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth a teaspoonful of pepper and two cups. of white stock or milk, or half of each. a Salmon Timbales (Raw Fish) ¥ pound raw salmon 1 cup double cream 2 egg-yolks (raw) 2 egg-whites, beaten dry 1 tablespoonful butter V4 teaspoonful salt 1 tablespoonful flour Y teaspoonful pepper Y cup chicken or fish broth 3 The salmon is weighed after the removal of all unedible portions. As purchased rather less than a pound is needed. Scrape the pulp from the fibers and pound to a smooth consistency; add the yolks and pound again. Before pounding the fish make a sauce of the butter, flour, salt and pepper as needed and the broth, and let this cool. Add to the fish and egg mixture, and pound again; then 48 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK t fold in the whites of eggs, beaten dry, and the cream, beaten firm, also the salt and pepper. Thoroughly grease the inside of timbale molds with softened butter, then sprinkle with capers or chopped parsley and set aside to chill, when the decoration will be held in place. Fill the molds with the fish preparation, tapping them on the table, meanwhile, that the mixture may settle firm in the molds. Cook in the oven, on folds of paper and surrounded by boiling water until firm in the center. Serve with Hol- landaise, drawn butter or fish Bechamel sauce. Capers may be added to the drawn butter sauce. Creamed Fresh Fish en Cocotte Dispose cooked fresh fish, flaked when hot, and mixed with cream sauce (one cup of fish to three-fourths a cup of sauce), in individual dishes (china or paper); pipe mashed potato on the edge of the fish; cover the fish with cracker crumbs, stirred into melted butter, and brush over the potato with beaten yolk of egg mixed with milk. Set the dishes into the oven to brown the crumbs and the edges of the potato. Canned Salmon Croquettes Open a can of salmon steak and drain off all liquid; turn the salmon on to tissue paper and let stand to drain thoroughly, then separate the fish into flakes. Make a cup of sauce with three tablespoonfuls of butter, one- fourth a cup of sifted flour, one-fourth a teaspoonful, each, of salt and pepper and one cup of milk; add the flaked salmon; mix without breaking up the flesh more than is necessary. Spread on a buttered plate and set aside to become cold. Shape into croquettes; egg-and-bread crumb and fry in deep fat. Serve with peas or string beans, and cucumbers or sauce tartare. FISH 49 Canned Salmon Loaf 1 can salmon picked fine Y% teaspoonful salt ¥% cup soft sifted bread crumbs 4 teaspoonful pepper 4 ege-yolks, beaten light 1 teaspoonful fine-chopped parsley 4 tablespoonfuls melted butter 4 egg-whites, beaten dry Use a silver fork in “ picking up ” the fish, discarding. skin and bones; add the other ingredients, save the whites, and when well mixed fold in the whites. Turn the mix- ture into a buttered mold. Bake until firm in the center, surrounded with boiling water. Unmold and pour over the sauce made in the usual manner. Sauce 2 tablespoonfuls butter 14 teaspoonful pepper 2 tablespoonfuls flour 1 cup milk Y4 teaspoonful salt Salmon Cutlets, Pojarski Style Chop fine one pound of raw salmon; beat half a cup of butter to a cream, and gradually beat and rub this into the fish; beat in, also, one-fourth a cup of double cream, half a teaspoonful of salt and one-fourth a teaspoonful of pap- rika. Let chill a little, then shape into one dozen cutlets. The mixture can be shaped very easily. Beat one egg, add four teaspoonfuls of milk, and mix thoroughly; in this dip the cutlets and at once roll in sifted soft bread crumbs. Fry in deep fat. Serve tomato sauce in a bowl. Tuna au Gratin in Shells Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter; in it cook two table- spoonfuls of flour and half a teaspoonful, each, of salt and paprika, then add one cup of chicken broth (seasoned with vegetables and sweet herbs), or of milk, and stir until boiling. Add one can of tuna picked fine with a silver fork and additional seasoning as needed; mix thoroughly 50 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK and dispose in buttered shells. Cover with a cup of cracker crumbs mixed with one-third a cup of melted butter. Set into the oven to become very hot and brown the crumbs. Set a sprig of parsley or a paper aigrette in the center of the mixture in each shell. Salt Codfish Cakes en Surprise 6 pared potatoes 1 egg, beaten light 1 cup raw salt codfish Anchovy butter Y% teaspoonful black pepper Cut the potatoes in quarters, set in a saucepan, dispose the fish above them in the center. Pour into the saucepan at the side enough boiling water to cover the potatoes, cover and boil till done. Drain off the water, let the potatoes dry out a little (on the stove), then mash thor- oughly. Add the seasonings. Stir a little of thé mixture into the egg, then return the whole to the rest of the mix- ture. Shape into smooth balls. Make a depression in the center of each ball, put in a teaspoonful of anchovy or sardine butter. Cover secure to keep the butter with- in. Fry in a basket in deep fat, four or five at a time. Drain on sort paper. Serve at once. Anchovy Butter Pick the fins from six anchovies wiped free of oil; press the flesh through a sieve; beat this paste into one-third a cup of creamed butter; beat in also a tablespoonful of fine-chopped parsley and two tablespoonfuls of chopped capers. Sardines may be used in place of the anchovies, or anchovy paste in place of the anchovy fillets. Creamed Salt Codfish, Poulette Pick tenderloins of salt codfish in thin, small bits to fill @ cup; cover with cold water and let stand overnight; set FISH 51 over the fire in same water, and let heat slowly till water looks milky (do not let boil), and drain; melt two table- spoonfuls of butter; in it cook two tablespoonfuls of flour, then add one cup of milk and stir until boiling; add the fish from which the water has been drained and beat in one egg, beaten very light; stir until the egg thickens, but do not let boil. Serve with hot baked or boiled potatoes. Finnan Haddie 4 la Delmonico Put a plump finnan haddie over the fire, skin side up, in cold water to cover; let heat gradually to just below the boiling point. After twenty minutes, remove, wipe dry and separate into flakes, discarding skin and bones. Melt a tablespoonful of butter in the blazer of a chafing-dish, add the prepared fish with a dash of paprika and stir and turn, over and over, until the butter is absorbed; add thin cream to the height of the fish; set over the hot water pan and when very hot stir in the beaten yolks of two or three eggs, mixed with half a cup of cream; add salt if needed; stir constantly until the egg is set, then serve at once. Finnan Haddie, Dinner Style Put the thick half of a finnan haddie over the fire in cold water and let heat slowly to the boiling point; draw to a cooler part of the range and let stand half an hour, without the water boiling. Remove the fish from the water and take out the bone. Set the fillet thus formed in a narrow, earthen dish, suitable for the oven and the table. While the fish is over the fire, make ready six or eight potatoes of the same size; steam or boil them, sprinkle with salt and let dry over the fire; then set them: around the fish as a border, pour over a cup of cream, add bits of butter, and fleck the potatoes with paprika. Let stand in the oven five or six minutes, then serve. 52 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Finnan Haddie Croquettes Finnan haddie all ready cooked can be purchased; or an uncooked fish may be set on the back of the range in cold water to cover; let heat slowly to boiling point, then draw to a cooler part of the range to stand half an hour without boiling; then remove from the fire and pick in bits. For a generous pint of fish, make a cream sauce of three tablespoonfuls of butter, four tablespoonfuls of flour, one cup of milk and one-fourth a cup of cream; add the fish, an egg, beaten light, and let cook over hot water until the egg is set; season as needed; turn on to a buttered plate; when cold, shape, egg-and-bread crumb and fry in deep fat. Serve with Chinese celery, cut into shreds and dressed with oil, vinegar, salt and pepper. Broiled Sardines Put about two dozen firm sardines, drained and wiped free from oil, in an oyster broiler. Broil two or three min- utes, turning each ten seconds. Dispose on slices of hot toast. Have ready one-fourth a cup of creamed butter, in- to which half a teaspoonful, each, of salt and pepper, half a tablespoonful of fine-chopped parsley and three-fourths a teaspoonful of lemon juice have been gradually beaten. Spread this butter over the hot sardines and serve at once. Sardines with White Sauce Remove the skin and tails from a dozen sardines, lay them on four slices of hot buttered toast and set them at the oven door. Prepare a cup of white sauce; add the beaten yolk of an egg diluted with a tablespoonful of lemon juice; season generously with salt and paprika and pour over the sardines. FISH 53 Oyster Stew 1 quart oysters 1% teaspoonful black pepper 1 cup cold water Y4 cup butter 3 cups hot milk or water ¥ cup fine cracker crumbs 1 teaspoonful or more salt Pour the cold water over the oysters, and rinse to remove bits of shell; strain the liquid through two folds of cheese cloth, heat to the boiling point, skim, add the oysters, and heat the whole to the boiling point; let simmer until the oysters look plump and the edges ruffle a little; add the other ingredients. Serve at once. See Soups for Oyster Soup. Poached Oysters on the Half-shell Butter as many scallop shells as there are individuals to serve. Put into each shell about six oysters with their own liquor, and sprinkle with salt, pepper, tomato catsup, and a drop of Tabasco sauce. Scatter a few bits of butter, here and there, on the oysters, and set the shells in a hot oven. Serve on doily-covered plates as soon as the oysters look plump and the edges curl. Put two or three toast points in each shell, or serve with brown-bread sandwiches. Broiled Oysters Pour about one-fourth a cup of water over a pint of oysters, and inspect each oyster carefully, to remove bits of shell. Drain on a cloth, dip in melted butter or bacon fat, and set into the spaces of the broiler. Broil over the fire, first on one side and then on the other, until the edges begin to curl and the oysters look plump. Season with salt and pepper, and a little lemon juice, and serve on bits of toasted bread. Or use maitre d’hétel butter. Or heat the broth to the boiling point, skim, add pepper, salt and butter, and pour over the whole. 54 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Oysters, Poulette Style Heat one‘pint of oysters to the boiling point, strain off the broth and keep the oysters hot. Melt two table- spoonfuls of butter; in it cook three tablespoonfuls of flour and one-fourth a teaspoonful, each, of salt and pepper; add the cup of the oyster broth and stir until boiling. Beat the yolks of two eggs; add half a cup of cream and stir into the sauce; let cook without boiling; add the oysters, a teaspoonful of lemon juice and more seasoning if needed. Serve on crackers, or on toast, or in patty or Swedish timbale cases. Fried Oysters that are Different (Mrs. Little) Wash and dry the oysters, dip in a beaten egg diluted with two tablespoonfuls of milk, and roll in fresh-grated cheese. Stand them aside for ten minutes and then dip a second time. After second dipping, roll in fine, soft bread crumbs. Fry in deep fat, drain, and serve with celery. Oyster Filling for Patties, Swedish Timbale Cases Pour a cup of cold water over a quart of oysters, and look them over carefully, one by one, to remove bits of shell, if present. Strain the liquid, heat it to the boiling point, skim, then add the oysters and bring them quickly to the boiling point. Drain off the liquid; cover the oysters to keep them hot. Melt one-fourth a cup of butter; in it cook one-fourth a cup of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt and half a teaspoonful of black pepper; add one cup of the oyster liquor and three-fourths (scant) a cup of cream and stir until boiling; add the oysters and let become very hot over boiling water. FISH 55 Green Peppers Stuffed with Oysters Select eight or ten peppers similar in size and shape. Cut out a round piece from the stem end of each and re- move the seeds and veins. Pour boiling water over the prepared peppers and let them simmer about five minutes; then drain and rub dry. Chop fine one pepper and a slice of onion; let cook in a tablespoonful of hot butter until yellowed slightly. Parboil one quart of oysters, drain and cut each in two or three pieces. Cook half a cup of blanched rice in the oyster broth, adding also salt and milk as needed. Keep the grains of rice whole. When the rice is tender, add one-third a cup of butter, the onion, pepper and the bits of oysters and use to fill the peppers. Spread cracker crumbs mixed with butter above. Bake until the mixture is very hot and the crumbs browned. Serve with tomato sauce. Sifted, soft bread crumbs — a pint or more — may be used in place of the rice. Oysters, Lansdale Select (for each service) a large firm mushroom; peel and trim, leaving the stalk intact. Cook in clarified but- ter (slowly melted and the oil on top poured off) with the stem up. Put fresh-opened oysters (3 to 5) into the same butter and let sauté until the edges curl; turn and let cook a moment on the other side. While these are cook- ing, broil a thick slice of tomato; set the tomato in a hot egg “‘shirrer,” sprinkle with salt and pepper and dot with butter. Set the mushroom, stalk upwards, on the tomato and dispose the oysters on the mushroom around the stem. Season as needed. Cover with a glass bell made hot in hot water. Set into the oven about two minutes; then serve at once. 56 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Broiled Lobster Cook the lobster in court bouillon about fifteen minutes. (A recipe for court bouillon is given under Brook Trout au Bleu.) Then split lengthwise, sprinkle generously with melted butter and let cook about five minutes, less rather than more, in a well-oiled broiler over a rather dull fire. Break open the claws, set on a hot plate, and surround with parsley. Serve melted butter, highly flavored with cay- enne in a sauce boat. Lobster-and-Halibut en Casserole 114 lbs. raw halibut 1 branch sweet basil 114 lbs. lobster 1 teaspoonful grated onion 1 onion 1 teaspoonful salt 1 carrot 3 crackers, rolled fine 2 branches parsley 3 tablespoonfuls butter Remove skin and bone from the fish, cut the flesh in six or eight pieces; remove the lobster flesh from the shell; cut the portions from the tail and large claws in pieces of nearly the same size as the fish. Cover the body bones of the lobster and the bones and skin of the fish with cold water, add the onion and carrot cut in bits, the parsley and basil and let simmer half an hour, strain and set aside. About twenty minutes before time to serve, put the pieces of fish in a buttered casserole and add a teaspoonful of grated onion, half a teaspoonful of salt and enough of the hot fish stock to cover the fish; cover the casserole and let the fish cook about fifteen minutes. Add the crackers, and the butter, in little bits, and mix thoroughly; then add the lobster, cover and let become very hot, when the dish is ready to serve. Lobster 4 la Creole 1 pint of lobster meat 3 tablespoonfuls flour Y4- cup rice 14 teaspoonful salt % a small onion - ¥ teaspoonful paprika, 14 a green pepper 2 cups tomato purée 2 tablespoonfuls butter FISH 57 Blanch the rice, then cook tender and drain. The lobster should be cut in small thin slices. Chop fine the onion and pepper, and cook in the butter until softened and yellowed (not browned); add the flour, salt, and pepper, and stir and cook until frothy; add the tomato purée and stir until boiling. Set over hot water and lightly mix in the rice and lobster. Cover and serve very hot. Scallops Baked in Shells For one quart of scallops make one cup and a half of sauce. Put the scallops over a quick fire with two table- spoonfuls of melted butter, shake the saucepan and let heat quickly to the boiling point; drain in a colander. Use the broth with chicken or veal broth, and a little cream, in making the sauce. Three tablespoonfuls, each, of butter and flour will be needed, also a scant half-teaspoon- ful of salt and of pepper, and one cup and a half of liquid. Add also the yolks of two eggs, beaten light, one table- spoonful of chopped parsley and a teaspoonful of lemon juice. Lastly, add the scallops. Dispose in buttered shells, individual casseroles or ramekins, cover with buttered crumbs and let bake until the crumbs are browned. Scallops 4 la Brestoise (Ranhofer) Put a quart of scallops over the fire with four table- spoonfuls of white wine or mushroom liquor, or half of each. Let heat quickly to the boiling point. Drain, and chop the scallops. Cut fine half a mild onion and let cook in two tablespoonfuls of butter until softened and yel- lowed, not browned; add the scallop broth and let simmer ten minutes; add soft bread crumbs, chopped fresh mush- rooms, salt and pepper as needed, and the scallops to make a mixture that may be rounded in the shells. Have the shells well buttered. Cover with a cup of soft bread 58 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK crumbs mixed with one-fourth a cup of melted butter. Let brown in the oven. Set a sprig of parsley in the center of each. Set on plates with a folded napkin. Fried Scallops Cover the scallops with boiling water. Let stand three minutes, drain and dry on a cloth. Season with salt and pepper, roll in flour, dip in egg, and roll in cracker or bread crumbs. Fry in deep fat until well colored; dress on a napkin, and serve with quartered lemons. Scalloped Clams, Rockport Style Take a quart of clams, remove and set aside the soft part; discard the black neck and chop fine the remainder of the clams. Add the chopped clams to the juice and soft part. Mix one cup and a half of cracker crumbs with a scant two-thirds a cup of melted butter. Butter an earthen au gratin dish and fill the dish with alternate layers of the buttered crumbs and prepared clams, having the first and last layer of crumbs. Season the crumbs with salt and pepper. Let bake about three-fourths of an hour in a slow oven. Or, if the dish is shallow (two layers of clams), bake from twenty minutes to half an hour. Serve at once. Crab Ravigote 3 tablespoonfuls butter 114 tablespoonfuls olives 3 tablespoonfuls flour 14 tablespoonfuls chervil fine- Y4 teaspoonful salt 1)4 tablespoonfuls parsiey { chopped 14 teaspoonful cayenne 1% tablespoonfuls tarrago: 11% cups chicken or veal broth Spinach juice to tint 2 shallots, chopped fine 1 pint crab meat 2 tablespoonfuls vinegar Make a sauce of the butter, flour, salt, pepper and broth. Let the shallots stand on the back of the range in the vine- FISH 59 gar until the vinegar is reduced one-half; add to the sauce with the fine-chopped ingredients; add spinach juice to tint a delicate green. Fold in the crab meat (generous measure), cover and let become very hot with- out boiling. CHAPTER V POULTRY, DOMESTIC GEESE AND DUCKS Roasting Chicken and Turkey Clean and truss poultry neatly (see Roast Goosg), that the cooked fowl may rest on the wings level on the platter, the drumsticks close to the body. Cover the breast with thin slices of fat salt pork or bacon. Set on a rack in a baking pan a little larger than the object. The rack should be smaller than the pan to admit of the free use of the spoon in basting. Turn often, at first, to sear over uniformly and, later on, to brown evenly. It will take half an hour to sear over the outside of a turkey. The oven should be hot during this time; then lower the heat and finish the cooking in an oven in which the fat in the pan will not burn. Baste each ten minutes with hot dripping; dredge with flour after basting. Cook until the joints are easily separated. Chickens require from one hour and a half to two hours cooking. A ten-pound turkey will require three hours cooking. Add no water or broth to the pan during cooking. Giblet Sauce for Roast Fowl Cover the neck and giblets (liver, gizzard and heart) of a fowl with boiling water, heat to the boiling point, then let simmer until tender. Chop the giblets fine, removing all bits of gristle. Pour off the fat from the baking pan, leaving but two or three tablespoonfuls in the pan; add three tablespoonfuls of flour and stir and POULTRY, DOMESTIC GEESE AND DUCKS 61 cook until absorbed; add about one cup and a half of broth (in which the giblets were cooked) and stir until boiling. Let boil six minutes. Add the chopped giblets, and the sauce is ready to serve. Péeled Chicken Wash and dry two young chickens and truss as for roasting. With a larding needle draw eight or ten long pork lardoons into the breast of each chicken. Trim the ends and tie each lardoon in a loose knot. Set on a rack in a casserole, baste with hot fat, cover and let cook in a moderate oven from one hour to an hour and a half, Baste each ten minutes with hot fat. Remove the chickens from the oven as soon as they are tender. Cook the giblets in the casserole with the chickens. Chop fine and add to a sauce made of two or three tablespoonfuls, each, of flour and fat from the casserole and a cup and a half of broth. Broiled Chicken, Alabama Style Cut a young chicken, carefully cleaned, in halves, cut- ting through the breast and back. Fasten a strip of bacon over the breast in each piece; set on a rack in a dripping pan, baste with melted butter or salt-pork fat, and let cook until tender (nearly an hour), basting each ten minutes. Brush over with butter and broil over coals or under a gas burner until well browned. Pour over about half a cup of broth (made of the neck and giblets) sea- soned with salt and pepper, and sprinkle with fine- chopped garden cress. Maryland Chicken (Miss Quimby) Singe and draw the chicken, cut in pieces for serving, separating at the joints. Season flour with salt and pep- per and in it roll the pieces of chicken. Have ready, in 62 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK cast-iron frying pan, some hot fat, salt pork, bacon or olive oil, and in this cook the chicken, turning it as needed, until it is of a golden brown exterior. Remove the chicken, and pour off the fat, leaving about four table- spoonfuls in the pan; add four tablespoonfuls of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt and a dash of pepper; stir until the fat has absorbed the flour and is slightly browned, then add two cups and a half of rich milk and stir until boiling; put the chicken into the sauce, cover and set into a moderate oven for one-half |to three-fourths of an hour, to simmer, blend flavors and grow deliciously tender. Guinea Fowl Baked in Double Pan Split and prepare the fowl as for broiling. Lay in the lower part of a double baking pan, with thin slices of fat salt pork above. Put about one-third a cup of boiling water into the pan, and cover closely. Let cook in the oven thirty minutes or longer, until cooked through to the bones. Serve garnished with cress and with cress or other green salad in a dish apart. Guinea chicks are good roasted or broiled. Panned Chicken Clean and separate a young chicken into joints. Put the chicken into a baking pan, add a cup of boiling water, cover closely and let cook about an hour and a half. Baste each fifteen minutes with melted butter and the liquid in the pan. Serve with a sauce made of the liquid in the dish and cream, and with sweet corn fritters. Sweet Corn Fritters To one cup of sweet corn pulp add the yolks of two eggs beaten light, half a teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth a teaspoonful of pepper, one cup of pastry flour with one POULTRY, DOMESTIC GEESE AND DUCKS 63 and one-half (level) teaspoonfuls of baking powder and the whites of two eggs beaten dry. Take up the mixture in a tablespoon and with a teaspoon scrape in a compact mass into hot fat; turn often while frying; drain on soft paper. To get the corn pulp, score the kernels length- wise of the row and with the back of a knife press out the pulps leaving the hulls on the cob. Stewed Chicken, Cadillac Style Cut a well-cleaned chicken into pieces at the joints, and cover with hot veal broth; let boil six minutes, then let simmer till tender. Blanch half a cup of rice, two dozen balls, cut from pared potatoes, and a dozen small onions; cook each separately until nearly done, drain and add to the chicken with a can of small stringless beans rinsed in boiling water. Let simmer about ten minutes, when all should be done. Prepare about a dozen and a half small baking powder biscuits. Turn the chicken, etc., on a large platter and surround with the hot biscuits. Chicken en Casserole Cook the chicken, cleaned and separated into joints, in butter, bacon or salt-pork fat, made hot in a frying pan, until browned on one side. Then turn the pieces, and brown the other side. Put the joints into the casse- role; put in about a pint of hot stock or water, cover the dish and set into the oven. Let cook at a gentle simmer about an hour and a quarter. Then add two dozen potato balls or cubes, one dozen tiny young onions or peeled fresh mushroom caps, and a dozen slices of carrot, all browned in the frying pan, and three or four tablespoon- fuls of sherry wine, with salt and pepper to season. Cover close, and let cook fifteen or twenty minutes longer. Send to the table in the dish, and without removing the cover. 64 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Flour and water mixed to a thin dough may be rolled into a rope or string, under the hands, and pressed upon the casserole, where the dish and cover meet, to keep in flavor. The dough should be removed, but the cover should not be lifted until after the dish has been set upon the table. The onions, potato balls and slices of carrot should be blanched and dried before being set to brown. To blanch, let boil five minutes, drain and rinse in cold water. The pieces of chicken may be rolled in flour before sautéing. The pinions, neck and back may be used for broth in which to cook the rest of the chicken. Chicken Pie, Biscuit Crust Separate a three-pound chicken into pieces at the joints. Wash carefully, cover with boiling water, let boil five or six minutes, then let simmer until tender. The chicken will cook in from an hour and a half to two hours. Add salt near the last of the cooking. Let the chicken become cold. For the crust sift together four cups of pastry flour, a teaspoonful of salt and four slightly rounding teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Work in one- half a cup of shortening, then mix to a dough with milk. Take two-thirds of the paste upon a board dredged with flour, knead slightly, then roll out to fit a baking dish large enough to hold the chicken. Roll the rest of the paste into a sheet, spread with softened butter, and fold in three layers; roll to fit the top of the dish. Cut a slit in the top of the crust. Put the pieces of chicken in the lined dish. Sprinkle in a teaspoonful of salt and half a teaspoonful of black pepper and two or three tablespoon- fuls of flour. Add two tablespoonfuls of butter in little bits, as the chicken is put in. Have ready a sauce made of two tablespoonfuls of butter, three of flour, one cup of VEAL CUTLETS, POJARSKI, WITH STRING BEANS. Page 87 BONED LEG OF LAMB STUDDED WITH HAM. Page 82 COLD HAM MOUSSELINE. Page 93 BOILED LEG OF MUTTON. Page 83 BROILED EGG-PLANT. Page 109 POULTRY, DOMESTIC GEESE AND DUCKS 65 cream and. the chicken broth. The sauce should be cold. Turn this into the dish over the chicken. Brush the edge of the paste with cold water and set the cover in place. Ornament the.cover with bits of paste, cut in crescents, if it be convenient. Set into a well-heated oven, cover with a buttered paper and let bake about three-fourths an hour. A pie is often made with only an upper crust. Curry of Chicken-and-Celery Have ready a cup of cooked celery (cut in half-inch slices and simmered till tender in water to cover) and a cup and a half of cooked chicken, cut in small pieces. Melt four tablespoonfuls of butter and in it cook two slices of onion until yellowed and softened, but not browned; take out the onion, add one level tablespoon- ful of curry powder, four level tablespoonfuls of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a slight dash of paprika; stir until frothy and bubbling, then add one cup of chicken broth, three-fourths a cup of nut milk (or plain milk without the admixture of nuts) and two rounding table- spoonfuls of currant jelly; stir and cook until smooth. and boiling, then add the chicken, celery and a table- spoonful of lemon juice. When the mixture boils it is ready to serve. Plain boiled rice should accompany the dish, but crackers or toast may be used. For the nut milk grind one-half a cup of blanched almonds or a full cup of fresh cocoanut, as fine as possible, then add to a generous cup of milk scalded over hot water; let stand an hour or longer, then press through a piece of cheese- cloth. The milk found in the cocoanut may be used. Hot Mousseline of Chicken 1 cup raw chicken breast 34 cup cooked chicken breast 1 white of egg 1 egg-white, beaten dry 14 cup double cream 14 cup cream, beaten firm 66 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Scrape enough pulp of raw chicken breast from the fibres to half fill acup; add an unbeaten white of egg and pound smooth with a wooden pestle; add half a cup of cream and again pound until smooth, then use the pestle to press through a sieve. Chop and pound enough cooked chicken breast to make three-fourths a cup, press this through a sieve and add to the first mixture, then fold evenly and smoothly through this mixture the last white and last half cup of cream. Turn into individual molds, carefully buttered. Cook surrounded with boiling water, on many folds of paper, until firm. Serve unmolded with cream or Bechamel sauce to which half a can of buttered mushrooms have been added. Bechamel sauce is a white sauce in which the liquid is half chicken or veal broth and half cream. Pilau 4 la Turque 1 cuprice 14 teaspoonful paprika 4 cup butter 3 tablespoonfuls flour 3 cups chicken broth Y4 teaspoonful salt ¥% cup tomato purée Y teaspoonful pepper 2 branches parsley 1 cup chicken broth 1 onion with 3 cloves 1% cup tomato purée 1 teaspoonful salt 1 cup cooked chicken 3 tablespoonfuls butter 1 cup cooked ham Put the rice over a quick fire in a quart or more of cold water, and stir with a fork while heating the water to the boiling point; let boil three minutes, drain and rinse with cold water on a sieve; return the blanched rice to the fire with the butter; stir and cook until the butter is absorbed; add the broth, tomato, parsley, onion, salt and paprika and let cook over boiling water until the liquid is absorbed and the rice tender; remove the onion and parsley. Melt the butter; in it cook the flour and seasonings; add the broth and purée and stir until boil- ing; then add the chicken and ham and let become very hot. Dispose the rice as a border on a serving dish, turn POULTRY, DOMESTIC GEESE AND DUCKS 67 the meat into the center and serve at once. The chicken and ham should be in very thin slices. Chicken Timbales (Cooked chicken) 2 eggs, well beaten Y% teaspoonful salt 1 cup cooked chicken 4% teaspoonful pepper Y4 cup soft bread crumbs 14 cups thin cream or rich milk The chicken should be chopped fine and the crumbs sifted. Add all the ingredients to the eggs. Mix thor- oughly. Bake in eight small, buttered timbale molds until firm in the center. The timbales will take from twenty to thirty minutes to cook. Set the molds on many folds of paper in a pan and surround with boiling water. The water should not boil after the timbales are set in the oven. Serve unmolded with two cups of sauce made of one-fourth a cup, each, of butter and flour, half a teaspoonful, each, of salt and pepper and one cup, each, of chicken broth and cream. Jellied Turkey After all the large slices of meat have been removed from a cold, roast turkey, pick off all the small pieces; carefully slice such as are at all thick and trim each piece neatly. Have ready a cold, hard-cooked egg, cut length- wise into eight pieces, and enough clarified chicken broth or consommé to fill the dish in which ‘the meat is to be molded. For a quart of broth and nearly that quantity of sliced turkey, take half a two-ounce package of gela- tine; pour over it a cup of cold broth and, when this is absorbed, add the rest of the broth and let become very hot. Cool the broth. Have ready a pan with crushed ice and water; in this chill a three-pint melon mold, pour in a little of the liquid-broth and turn the mold to coat it. 68 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Dip the pieces of egg in half-set broth (aspic) and set them, one at a time, against the mold to form a definite design; with a larding needle take up chilled capers and set them around the pieces of egg, then add a little half-set aspic to hold them in place. When the decorations are held firmly in place, add pieces of turkey and half-set aspic, alternately, to fill the mold. Unmold on a serving dish; garnish with cubes of tomato jelly and hearts of lettuce, cut in quarters. Serve French or mayonnaise dressing in a bowl. Chicken Croquettes ¥ cup butter 1 cup chicken broth 44 cup flour Y% cup cream Y% teaspoonful salt 1 egg, beaten light 4 teaspoonful pepper 14 cups cooked chicken, cut very fine Make a sauce of the first six ingredients; add the egg and let cook without boiling until the egg is set; stir in the chicken; additional seasoning, as chopped parsley, celery salt, or onion juice (one or all), may be added at pleasure. Turnon to a plate and cover with buttered paper. When cold shape into balls, cylinder or other shapes. Roll in sifted, soft bread crumbs, then cover with beaten egg, diluted with three or four tablespoonfuls of milk or water, and again roll in crumbs. Fry in deep fat, about four at a time. Serve with peas, or peas and shreds or slices of carrot mixed together. Scalloped Chicken and Kornlet For a can of kornlet or two cups of corn pulp canned at home, and one cup of chicken or veal, chopped fine, make one cup and a half of white or tomato sauce. Butter an au gratin dish, or a dozen individual dishes. Put the three articles into the receptacle, in layers, having the first of kornlet and the last of sauce. Use kornlet as the alternate layer, each time. Let bake from ten to fifteen POULTRY, DOMESTIC GEESE AND DUCKS 69 minutes. Serve hot as the chief dish at supper or luncheon. Fresh corn may be used when in season. Score the ker- nels lengthwise of the rows, with the back of a knife press out the pulp and leave the hulls on the ear. A covering of three-fourths a cup of cracker crumbs mixed with one- fourth a cup of melted butter is an improvement. Adelaide Patties Y4 cup butter Y teaspoonful pepper 1 cup fresh mushrooms 1 cup chicken broth (caps broken in pieces) 34 cup cream 14 cup flour 1 cup cooked chicken in cubes 14 teaspoonful salt 1 cup cooked peas Melt the butter; in it cook the pieces of mushroom, about two minutes; add the flour and seasonings and cook until absorbed by the butter; add the broth and cream and stir until boiling; add the chicken and peas and heat over boiling water. Use to fill patty-cases made of puff- paste. The cases may be made in advance, and then reheated and filled at time of serving. Puff-paste made of half a pound, each, of butter and flour will make six cases of the usua! size. The mixture given above is sufficient. for eight or ten cases. Roast Goose, German Style Rub a carefully dressed young goose, inside and out, with salt, pepper, sage, thyme and sweet marjoram and tet stand overnight. Mix three cups of soft (stale) bread crumbs, half a cup of cleaned currants, half a cup of stoned raisins, a2 sour apple, peeled, cored and chopped, one hot, cooked potato, pressed through a sieve, half a cup of melted butter, half a teaspoonful of salt and a little pepper, and use to fill the goose; truss and roast in the usual manner. Serve with a giblet sauce and a “ com- pote” of cherries (canned or preserved cherries). 70 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Roast Duckling (Domestic) Truss the duckling in the same manner as a chicken or goose; remove the gall bladder from the liver and put the liver inside the duck. Rub the outside with salt and pepper and spread with dripping; let cook about an hour and a half or until the flesh is very tender. Baste every ten minutes, dredging with flour after each basting. When done pour off the fat from the pan; add a cup of brown stock (beef and veal) and use to rinse the pan. Use this in making a cup of thick brown sauce; add the juice of an orange and part of the peel, cut in very fine shreds. Serve with apple sauce or apple fritters and currant jelly sauce. Garnish the duck on the platter with half slices of orange. Larded Rabbit Baked with Milk One rabbit will serve from four to six people. Cut off the head on a line with the shoulder bones. Remove the rib bones and as many layers of skin from the outside as is possible. Cut off the feet and scrape the flesh from as many tendons as are in sight, discarding the tendons. Wash in several waters, then wipe dry. Lard the whole upper surface with pork lardoons or, to save time, spread over the rabbit in the pan thin slices of larding pork. Set into a hot oven, baste, at first, with the fat in the pan, then lower the heat and baste with hot milk; dredge with flour after each basting. Let cook from one hour to one hour and a half, or until tender. Melt one-fourth a cup of butter; in it cook one-fourth a cup of flour, half a teaspoonful, each, of salt and paprika, then add one- fourth a cup of cold milk and the milk drained from the baking pan. Dispose the rabbit on a hot dish. Set around it from four to six cup-shaped rice croquettes, each holding a teaspoonful of currant jelly; between the cro- quettes set rolls of bacon, fried in deep fat or cooked in POULTRY, DOMESTIC GEESE AND DUCKS 71 the oven. Run a wooden toothpick through each roll to hold it in shape while baking. Serve the sauce in a bowl. Rabbit 4 la Marengo Separate a carefully washed and dried rabbit into eight pieces, four legs and four body pieces. Discard rib bones and all tendons possible. Season the pieces with pepper and salt and roll in flour. Heat equal parts (about three tablespoonfuls, each), of clarified butter and olive oil in a frying pan; put in the joints of rabbit and let cook, turn- ing when needed, to a golden brown. Drain the fat from the pan, add one-fourth a cup of Sauterne and let this reduce. Heat three tablespoonfuls of fat from the pan, stir in three tablespoonfuls of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt and one-fourth of pepper, then add three-fourths a cup, each, of tomato purée and rich brown stock, flavored with vegetables and herbs. Pour this over the rabbit and let. simmer forty-five minutes. Dispose a flat bed of mashed potato on a serving dish; on this set the pieces of rabbit; skim all fat from the sauce and strain it over the rabbit. Set some crescent-shaped croutons of bread around the edge. Peeled mushroom caps, with a bit of butter in the center of each, baked ten minutes, may be set in groups between the croutons. CHAPTER VI MEATS Meat is an expensive article of food, and careless cook- ery that is wasteful of nourishing properties and fails to bring out latent juiciness and flavor cannot be condemned too strongly. The cheaper the cut of meat the greater the care necessary in its cookery. With roast or broiled beef or poultry, high heat at first to sear over the outside and keep in the juices, then low heat till the cooking is completed is the general rule. Pork, veal and lamb, all of which should be cooked more thoroughly than beef, should be set to cook in a moderate oven; the center of such roasts must show no pinkness or half coagulated juices. The tough fibers of the cheaper cuts of meat call for moisture and gentle heat, long continued. To insure tenderness all meat as well as poultry and game must have been “ hung ”’ a proper length of time. Meat may be kept longer when high flavor is to be developed in the cooking process, as in roasting and broiling, than when boiling or stewing is to be the method of cooking. ‘“‘ Made over ”’ dishes of meat require skillful handling. The meat must be reheated quickly — protected from strong heat by sauce or covering of some kind, or it must be treated like tough meat and simmered a long time until very tender. Sirloin Steak, Tivoli Remove the flank, superfluous fat and the chine bone; wipe with a damp cloth and set to broil over a quick fire and quite close to it. Turn the broiler each two seconds MEATS 73 for two minutes, then remove farther from the fire to finish the cooking. Cook a steak an inch and a half in thickness from eight to ten minutes. Set the steak on a hot platter and spread with Bernaise sauce. Above set half a pound of fresh mushrooms that were cooked while the steak was broiling. Discard the stems and peel the caps. Set these, gill side up, in a buttered frying pan, drop a bit of butter in the center of each, cover and let cook in the oven. Bernaise Sauce Put two tablespoonfuls, each, of fine-chopped green pepper and mild onion (shallot), and one-fourth a cup of vinegar to simmer on the back of the range. When the moisture has nearly evaporated, add two tablespoonfuls of butter and the beaten yolks of three eggs. Set the sauce- pan in a dish of boiling water, then stir and let cook, adding twice, meanwhile, two more tablespoonfuls of butter. When the sauce thickens, season with salt and strain. The sauce may also be used without straining. ' Loin Roast of Beef Wipe with a damp cloth and set, skin side down, on a rack in the meat pan; rub over with salt and flour. Set in a hot oven to sear over the surface and baste each ten minutes with fat in the pan or with fat from the top of a dish of soup; dredge with flour after each basting. Reduce the heat, after twenty minutes, and let cook from an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half or three-quarters, as a rare, medium rare or well done piece of meat is desired. Turn the meat when half cooked. About half an hour be- fore removal from the oven, dispose around the meat in the pan potatoes pared and cooked fifteen minutes in boil- ing water. Baste the potatoes when the meat is basted. At no time should the fat in the pan be heated enough to 74 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK burn. Meat cooked at too high a temperature is never satisfactorily cooked. Gravy and Sauce for Roast Beef, Lamb, Veal, etc. Platter gravy is the unadulterated juice of the meat which drops to the platter during.carving. Brown sauce is made from the juices of the meat that have browned and adhered to the pan during the cooking of the meat. When the meat is done, remove it from the pan, pour off all the fat, then turn into the pan about a cup and a half of beef broth or water, as is convenient. Return the pan to the fire and let the liquid simmer until the browned meat juices are taken up by the water. Put three table- spoonfuls of the fat or dripping into a small saucepan; when hot, add three tablespoonfuls of ordinary flour or twice the quantity of browned flour (flour cooked and stirred in the oven until brown throughout) and one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt; stir and cook until frothy, then add the liquid from the pan, cooled a little, and stir until boiling. More salt, may be needed. Fillet of Beef, Bouquet Fashion Remove all unedible portions from a fillet of beef and draw into the best surface three rows of salt pork lardoons (strips of fat salt pork one-eighth of an inch thick and wide and any length); cut the lardoons of good length that they may be tied in a single knot. Roast or péele the fillet as desired. If pdeling be selected as the method of cooking, baste with melted glaze several times, at the last. cooking, to secure a surface of high gloss. Have ready, cooked and hot, some flowerets of cauliflower, balls of carrot and of potatoes, and about a cup of Ber- naise sauce. Dispose the hot vegetables around the meat on a serving dish. Serve the sauce in a bowl. After the MEATS 75 potato balls have been blanched and dried on a cloth, let them cook in the oven, in a little melted butter, to a golden brown, shaking the pan occasionally to avoid burning. Hamburg Roast 2 Ibs. beef (top of round) 1 tablespoonful chopped parsley i cup soft bread crumbs 1 tablespoonful chopped green 1 egg, well beaten or red pepper, or 1 teaspoonful salt Vg teaspoonful paprika 1 teaspoonful onion juice Y4 teaspoonful mace (at dis- cretion) Mix all together thoroughly, shape into a compact roll, and put in baking pan, with slice of salt pork above. Baste with dripping. Bake from thirty to forty minutes. Serve with brown or tomato sauce. Tomato Sauce for Meats 3 tablespoonfuls butter, browned 4 tablespoonfuls flour 1 tablespoonful onion teaspoonful salt 1 tablespoonful carrot 1% teaspoonful pepper 1 bunch parsley 1 cup tomato purée 1 bit of bay leaf 4 cup brown stock Chop the onion and carrot before measuring; cook these with the parsley and bay leaf in the butter until well browned; add the flour and seasonings and cook until browned, then add the purée and stock and stir until boiling, then strain and it is ready to use. Pot Roast, with Currants Purchase at least four pounds of beef in a solid piece from the chuck vein or round; roll the meat in flour. Have ready some hot salt pork fat or fat from the top of a kettle of soup in a frying-pan; in this cook and turn the meat until it is seared and browned on all sides. Set the meat into a saucepan or iron kettle (the latter is the most suitable utensil), pour in a cup of boiling water, sprinkle 76 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK over the top of the meat about two-thirds a cup of dried raisins, cover the kettle close, and let cook where the water will simply simmer very gently; add water as needed, just enough to keep the meat from burning. The cover should fit close to keep in the moisture. Cook until the meat is very tender. It will take five or six hours. Remove the meat to a serving dish; stir into the liquid two level tablespoonfuls of flour and one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt, smoothed in about one-fourth a cup of cold water; stir until boiling, let simmer ten minutes, then pour over the meat or serve in a dish apart. Serve at the same time plain boiled potatoes, turnips or squash and cabbage. The currants may be omitted. Round Steak en Casserole Cut round steak in pieces about two inches square, roll in flour and let brown in salt-pork fat or dripping. Re- move to a casserole and add broth to cover. Add more fat to the pan and in it brown a small blanched onion for each service; add these to the casserole, cover and let cook about two hours or until nearly tender; add, for each service, two small strips of carrot and half a dozen cubes or balls of potato, parboiled and browned in the frying pan, also salt and pepper as needed, and let cook until the vegetables are tender. Serve from the large dish or in individual casseroles made hot in boiling water. Swiss Steak 3 lbs. round steak (114 inches thick) Bit of bay leaf, if desired 14 cup flour Boiling water 2 tablespoonfuls butter Salt and pepper Pound the steak until the fiber is thoroughly broken up; add the flour while pounding. When the steak is tender, the flour should be thoroughly incorporated with the MEATS 77 meat. Melt the butter in a frying pan; put in the meat and let brown on one side, then turn and brown the other side. Add boiling water and let simmer from two to three hours. The bay leaf, if used, should be added with the water. Chili Con Carne, Spanish Style To prepare the chili used in this dish: from two pods of dried red chili peppers take out all the seeds and discard them. Soak the pods in warm water to cover until soft, then scrape pulp from the skins into the water, discarding the skins and saving the pulp and water. Cut two pounds of round steak into small pieces, roll in flour and cook in hot frying pan, in pork drippings, until well browned; add three or four tablespoonfuls of flour and stir until browned, then add one clove of garlic in which two gashes have been cut, and the chili water, of which there should be about one pint; let simmer until meat is tender (about two hours), adding hot water if needed. When done the sauce should be of good consistency; ‘ add salt to taste. Tenderloin Cutlets with Spaghetti 1 pound beef tenderloin 1 cup spaghetti 4 pound veal cutlet 3 tablespoonfuls butter Y% cup cooked ham 1 cup mushrooms 34 cup beef marrow 1 tablespoonful chopped onion ¥4 cup cream 8 tablespoonfuls flour Salt and pepper 1 cup beef broth 2 tablespoonfuls brandy 4 cup tomato purée 4 cup grated cheese Chop the meat and marrow in a food-chopper; pound smooth with a pestle, then gradually pound in the cream and seasonings. Form into cutlet shapes. Weigh the meat after freeing it of all waste. It will make from eight to twelve cutlets. Dip in an egg, beaten and diluted with 78 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK three tablespoonfuls of milk, then roll in soft bread crumbs, sifted; sauté in clarified butter or olive oil. Serve on a bed of spaghetti. Spaghetti for Cutlets Cook the spaghetti in boiling salted water until done; drain, rinse in cold water and drain again. Melt the butter; in it cook the mushrooms, peeled and broken in pieces, and the onion; add the flour, stir until blended, then add the broth and purée and stir until boiling; add the cheese and spaghetti; lift the spaghetti with a spoon and fork, until well mixed, while making hot over boiling water. Beef Stew For a well-flavored stew select a piece of meat that con- tains fat, bone and lean meat, the latter predominating. In this selection, everything depends on the number of people to be served. If meat is purchased in large quan- tity and one has a large sirloin roast, the flank end will make a choice stew. If seven or eight pounds of meat, enough to serve thirty people, are required, the aitchbone may be selected. This piece contains some very tender meat, and the joint may be served one day as a rare cooked roast, and then the rest be made into a stew. For a stew to serve six people, purchase two and one-half pounds of the “ chuck”; cut it into small pieces, and brown part of the pieces in a little hot dripping. Cover the rest of the meat with cold water and heat quickly to the boiling point; add the meat from the frying pan and turn some of the hot liquid into the pan; let it stand over the fire until the glaze is dissolved from the pan, then add to the meat. Cover and let simmer about two hours. Add two or three peeled onions, cut in slices, and one carrot, scraped and cut in slices, and let cook half an hour; then add five potatoes, pared, rinsed, parboiled and drained, MEATS 79 and let cook until the potatoes are tender, when all should be cooked. Add salt and pepper as needed and the stew is ready. Two and a half pounds from the hind shank of beef, which is largely lean meat and bone, may be used, if a marrow bone be added for additional marrow. Beefsteak Chowder 1 lb. round steak 1 teaspoonful salt 2 inch cube salt pork 4 teaspoonful pepper 1 onion 144 cups thin cream or rich 1 quart boiling water Milk scalded over hot water 4 potatoes Cut the steak into strips an inch and a half long and half an inch thick and wide. Cut the pork, which should be fat, into tiny bits, and cook until the fat is well tried out; add the onion cut in very thin slices, and stirand cook until the onion is softened and yellowed. Add the boiling water, let simmer five minutes, then strain over the pieces of steak; let boil five minutes, then simmer until the meat is tender. Pare the potatoes, cut in thin slices, and let cook in boiling water five minutes; drain, rinse in cold water and drain again, then add to the meat with the salt and pepper. Add more water if needed to cover the potatoes. When the potatoes are tender add the milk or cream and additional seasoning if necessary. Serve with . crackers. Left-over steak may be used. Pressed Corn Beef Select a piece of beef containing some fat with the lean meat. Do not buy “ fancy brisket ” for this dish. Cover with cold water and let cook at a gentle simmer until the meat is tender. Put the meat in a deep, narrow pan, set a board with weight above it and let stand in a cool place over night. Serve cold, sliced thin, with potato salad. Use the remnants in Creamed Corned Beef. Scald two 80 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK or three slices of onion and a stalk of celery in the milk used for the cream sauce. Plymouth Succotash 6 pounds corned beef Black pepper 6 pounds fowl 3 pints pea beans 5 quarts hulled corn 5 potatoes Salt 1 turnip Boil the corned beef and fowl, separately, until tender; when cold, remove the fat from the liquid and heat the two dishes of broth together; add the hulled corn (white or yellow kernels of corn cooked with lye to remove germ, then cooked tender in water without lye), add salt and pep- per as needed and let simmer one hour and a half. Stew the beans in a separate saucepan, then strain into the broth, etc. One hour before serving boil the potatoes and turnip (cut in rather small pieces) until done, then add with the water to the above; add the chicken and corned beef, in small pieces, and when hot throughout the dish is ready. Corned Beef Hash Chop fine an equal quantity of cold corned beef and boiled potatoes; stir in a little broth or boiling water and turn into hot salt pork fat or dripping in a hot frying pan; stir and cook until hot throughout, then let stand to color and crust slightly on the bottom. Turn on to a hot serv- ing dish. Frizzled Beef Heat two tablespoonfuls of butter or bacon fat in a frying pan. Add about one-fourth a pound (a cup packed loosely) of thin-sliced dried beef and stir and cook until well heated. Serve at once on a hot dish. Dried, smoked beef is often frizzled before it is added to cream sauce. CAULIFLOWER, MAITRE D’HOTEL. Page 111 FRENCH ARTICHOKE, HOLLANDAISE SAUVLE. Page 108 SALSIFY, MELTED BUTTER, WITH TOAST POINTS. Page 110 TOMATO JELLY-AND-BAKED BEAN SALAD. Page 125 POTATO SALAD. Page 129 MBATS 81 Baked Tripe, Spanish Style Boil four pounds of fresh tripe until tender; drain and sprinkle with salt and pepper, and arrange in a well but- tered dish. Pour over it one quart of chopped tomatoes, one large onion, sliced very thin, one-half a cup of chopped parsley, skin of one large red pepper, minced fine, one- half a cup of chopped olives and one teaspoonful of Tabasco sauce. Pour over all one-half a cup of melted butter, and bake one hour. Broiled Tripe with Bacon Rolls Simmer fresh tripe in boiling water until very tender (it will take five or six hours of cooking), add salt during the last of the cooking. Drain, and set aside in a covered dish until ready to use. Brush over the portion to be used (honeycomb tripe is considered the best) with partly melted butter or bacon fat, and set to cook over the coals or under the gas burner. Let cook three or four minutes, then remove to a hot platter, season with a little salt, if needed, and spread over the top as many slices of broiled bacon as there are individuals to serve. Bacon rolls may replace the broiled bacon. To prepare these, run a tooth- pick through each slice of bacon, rolled up like a jelly roll, immerse all at once (in a basket) in hot, deep fat. Let cook a minute, then drain, and use as specified. A quarter of a lemon should accompany each portion. “ Hot Pot” Mutton or Lamb 214 Ibs. lamb (fore quarter) Salt and pepper 6 potatoes Butter 1 onion Cut the meat into pieces for serving; dredge them with flour and sauté in a little hot fat, tried out of salt pork or bacon. Cut the potatoes in slices one-fourth an inch thick and parboil five minutes; drain, rinse in cold water 82 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK and drain again. Cut the onion in slices and parboil fifteen minutes, then drain and rinse in cold water. Put a layer of meat in a casserole, add a layer of potato and of onion, and continue the layers until all are used. Pour in a pint of broth or hot water. Have the last layer pota- toes, and put them in so that one slice slightly overlaps another. Season the layers with salt and pepper. Add a few bits of butter to the last layer of potatoes. Let cook covered about three hours in a slow oven. Remove the cover to let the potatoes brown about half an hour. Boned Leg of Lamb Studded with Ham Bone a leg of lamb. Fill the center with bread dressing, seasoned with onion and green pepper. Sew the leg into good shape. Cut raw ham into strips an inch long and one-third of an inch thick. With a pointed knife make small incisions in regular rows over both sides of the meat and into these press the strips of ham. In the pan of a double roaster put the fat from the ham, chopped fine, and two or three tablespoonfuls of dripping; when hot put in the lamb, two onions and two carrots, sliced, also three branches of parsley. Set over the fire and let all brown, turning as needed to brown uniformly. Pour over about a quart of hot beef or veal broth, or half and half of each. Set the pan in the covered receptacle and let cook in a slow oven about three hours. Remove the meat to a hot dish, strain off the liquid, season as needed and serve in a sauce boat. The sauce may be thickened with flour made smooth in water, if desired. The lamb thus prepared may also be roasted. Bread Dressing for Boned Lamb or for Stuffing Chicken or Turkey Crumble stale bread, freed of crust, by rubbingit through a colander. To two cups (well pressed down) add half a MEATS 83 cup of melted butter, one or two tablespoonfuls of fine- chopped green or red pepper, one tablespoonful of parsley, about a teaspoonful of onion pulp (scraped from an onion cut in halves), a teaspoonful of crushed thyme and half a teaspoonful, each, of salt and black pepper. Mix all together thoroughly. Boned Loin of Lamb, Roasted Have a loin of yearling lamb freed from bones and con- siderable of the flank cut off. Spread the meat, skin side down (the skin, however, should be removed as it is strong flavored), on a board; over it spread bread dressing fla- vored with a little onion, or the inside of the meat may be rubbed with an onion cut in halves; roll the meat and tie in four or five places with narrow strips of cloth. Set to cook in a hot oven; baste frequently with hot dripping and cook about half an hour. Set the meat on a hot plat- ter, pipe Lima bean purée around it and serve at once. Serve at the same time a fresh vegetable salad with French dressing. ; Boiled Leg of Mutton (Yearling), Caper Sauce The leg may be hung in a steam kettle containing boiling water; it will take about four hours to cook tender. To boil, cover with boiling water, let boil rapidly ten minutes, then let simmer until tender. The time of cooking will be about the same as for steaming. Lamb or mutton for boiling or steaming should be quite fresh. For the sauce, melt one-fourth a cup of butter; in it cook one-fourth a cup of flour and half a teaspoonful of salt, then add two cups of cold water, or liquid in which the meat was cooked cooled for the purpose; stir until boiling, then gradually beat in two or three tablespoonfuls of but- ter (in bits), add also two or three tablespoonfuls of capers. 84 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Spread the top of the meat, set on a serving dish, with a little of the sauce, sprinkle the sauce with capers and serve the rest of the sauce in a bowl. China Chilo 2 Ibs. scrag end of lamb 1 cup dried flageolet 2 onions, in slices 1 pint boiling water 1 head lettuce, in shreds Salt and paprika Select yearling lamb, cut the meat into small pieces, discarding all superfluous fat. Add the other ingredients (the beansshould have beensoaked over night and drained). Let simmer until the meat is tender. It will take about three hours. More water may be needed, but when the meat is done there should not be a large quantity of broth. Flageolet are green-colored French beans; other varieties of beans, as kidney or Lima, may also be used. Lamb Chops 4 la Diable Spread the eye of the chops, on both sides, lightly with _ “made” mustard (ground mustard mixed to a paste with a few grains of sugar, and vinegar and boiling water, half and half); roll in sifted, soft bread crumbs, cover with an egg, beaten with four tablespoonfuls of milk or water, and again roll in soft bread crumbs. Let stand to dry a little, then shake, to remove superfluous crumbs, and fry in deep fat. Let fry about six minutes. Drain on soft paper. Serve, around a mound of macaroni & |’Italienne, or peas and slices of carrot, dressed with salt, pepper, a teaspoonful of sugar and two or three tablespoonfuls of butter. Breaded Lamb Chops, Baked Wipe the chops very carefully, to remove bits of bone that may be present. Dip in soft bread crumbs (sifted), then in an egg, beaten and dilutéd with one-fourth a cup MEATS 85 of milk or water, and then in bread crumbs, seasoned with salt and pepper. Dispose on a buttered baking sheet. Bake from fifteen to twenty minutes. Serve around a mound of cooked peas, seasoned with salt, black pepper and butter. Serve with Wargrave sauce in a boat. Wargrave Sauce To one cup and a half of brown sauce add a dessert spoonful, each, of red currant jelly, Harvey’s sauce, mush- room ketchup and tomato purée; also a rounding table- spoonful, each, of gherkins, mushrooms, ham, and tongue cut in Julienne shreds. Mixed Grill (For use in lunch rooms and restaurants) Have ready one lamb chop, one or two (according to size) pork sausages, four chicken-livers, cut in halves, three slices of bacon, cut in small pieces (about three, each) and a small bunch of washed-and-dried cress. Cover the sausage with boiling water and let simmer about ten minutes, then remove to a broiler; push the pieces of bacon and liver, alternately, on a skewer, and set in place on the broiler; add the carefully wiped chop to the broiler, and let cook over a rather dull fire, removing each article from the broiler when it is done. The sausage will be cooked first. Set the cress on one end of the plate, push the ar- ticles from the skewer upon the plate, adjust a paper frill on the chop bone, set this and the sausage in place and serve at once as a single service. Other combinations for “ mixed grill” might include: lamb chop, sausage, chicken-livers and bacon; lamb chop, kidney, slice of ham, maitre d’hétel; beef tenderloin, sausage, chicken-livers and bacon; Hamburg steak, sau- 86 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK sage, tripe, bacon; Hamburg steak, slice of ham, two slices of tomato; lamb chop, lamb’s liver and bacon, sausage. Brown Fricassée of Veal Cut veal steak in pieces for serving; roll in flour and set to cook in hot fat tried out from salt pork; when the veal is browned on one side, turn to brown the other side, then add light broth or water to cover and let cook at a gentle simmer about one hour. Stir one-fourth a cup of flour (for each pint of liquid), half a teaspoonful of salt, and one-fourth a teaspoonful of pepper with cold water to form a smooth thin paste; add to the meat, stir until boiling, and let simmer ten to fifteen minutes, when the dish is ready to serve. A little tomato purée is a good addition to the sauce. Veal Pot Pie Wipe a piece of veal from the shoulder, and cut it into pieces for serving. Add a half-inch strip of salt pork or bacon for each piece of veal. Cover with cold water, put over the fire, and bring quickly to the boiling point. Then, after boiling five minutes, skim, and let simmer until the meat is tender. When nearly tender, add salt and pep- per to season, and, if desired, potatoes, pared, parboiled five minutes, drained, rinsed in cold water, and drained again. Have ready a steamer of boiling water. On the rack, thoroughly buttered, place some rounds of biscuit dough. Let these cook fifteen or twenty minutes, covered closely, and without allowing the water to stop boiling. Serve the dumplings on the ends of the platter on which the stew is dished. Dumplings Pass through a sieve, together, two or three times, two cups of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, and four level tea- MEATS 87 spoonfuls of baking powder. Mix to a dough with about one cup of sweet milk. Then pat into a sheet, and cut into rounds. Veal Cutlets, Pojarski Style Run one pound of veal, freed of all unedible portions, through a meat-chopper twice. Add half a teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth a teaspoonful, or more, of paprika and as much thick cream (half a cup or more) as can be mixed through the meat without making it too soft to handle. Wet the hands in cold water and form the meat into six or more cutlet shapes. These should be less than half an inch thick. Pat these on both sides in flour and sauté in hot fat tried out of fat salt pork. When browned on one side turn to brown the other side. Fresh halibut is particu- larly good prepared by this recipe. Hither veal or fish cutlets may be “ egged-and-crumbed ”’ before frying. Veal Balls in Curry Sauce 14 lbs. raw veal Y4 teaspoonful pepper 2 slices bacon or pork ¥ cup cream or broth 1 cup soft sifted bread crumbs 2 well-beaten eggs 1 teaspoonful salt 1 tablespoonful scraped onion 1 tablespoonful chopped parsley Pass the meat through a food chopper, add the other ingredients, mix thoroughly and shape into balls about an inch and a half in diameter. Roll the balls in flour, sazté in hot salt pork fat or butter until well browned on all sides. Remove the balls to a casserole; add butter if needed and when hot cook in it one-fourth a cup of flour, a tablespoonful of curry powder and half a teaspoonful of salt, then add two cups of milk or stock and stir until boiling, and strain over the balls; cover and let simmer nearly an hour. Serve in the center of a ring of hot boiled rice. 88 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Mock Sweetbreads with Purée, etc. 1 lb. veal pulp 4 cup butter 2 eggs Y teaspoonful salt 1 cup soft bread crumbs Y4 teaspoonful pepper 1 cup rich milk or white broth 1% cup double cream Scrape veal steak cut from the round to get one pound or two cups of pulp, as free as possible from fibers. Pound the pulp in a wooden bow! with a pestle. Add the eggs, one at a time, pounding the first smoothly into the pulp before the second is added. Cook the crumbs in the broth or milk to a smooth, thick paste, let cool, then pound into the veal; pound in also the butter, salt, pepper and cream. When the mixture is very smoothly and evenly blended, press it through a sieve, using the pestle. Form into eight or ten oval shapes, the size of a veal, heart sweet- bread split in halves. Set these in a buttered dish; pour over a cup of hot veal or chicken broth, two or three slices of bacon, cut in bits, a few mushroom trimmings, two slices of onion, half a teaspoonful of salt and a chili pepper; cover with a buttered paper and let cook about an hour (a covered casserole may be used). Strain off the broth and add tomato purée and rich broth to make one pint; use this with one-fourth a cup, each, of butter and flour in making a sauce. Set the mock sweetbreads on thin shapes of hot chestnut, sweet potato, green pea or Lima bean purée. These should emerge beyond the meat half an inch on all sides. Pipe purée on the edge around the meat. Dispose hot peas, seasoned with salt, black pepper, butter and a teaspoonful of sugar, at the sides or ends of the dish. Serve the sauce in a bowl. Vegetable Purée for Mock Sweetbreads Press the hot cooked vegetable through a ricer, add butter, salt, pepper and cream or rich milk as is needed to make a mixture that will pass smoothly through a pastry MEATS 89 bag and tube. Beat the mixture with a slitted wooden spoon until very light and fluffy. Veal Loaf Chop fine (use a food chopper) one pound and a half of veal steak, and about two ounces of fat salt pork or bacon; add one egg and the yolk of another beaten light, one pi- miento, chopped fine, a tablespoonful of fine-chopped parsley, half a teaspoonful of powdered thyme, two table- spoonfuls of thick cream or one-fourth a cup of sauce (cream, tomato or similar sauce), half a teaspoonful, each, of salt and paprika, a grating of nutmeg and two crackers rolled fine; mix all together in a compact roll; set into a baking pan on aslice of salt pork, with asliceof porkabove. Bake about two hours, basting often with hot fat; reduce the heat after fifteen minutes. Serve cold, sliced thin, with potato or green salads. Braised Calf’s Liver Cut matchlike strips of pork from that portion of a piece of fat salt pork which lies just below the rind; draw these into the best looking side of a calf’s liver, or entirely through the liver. Put the trimmings of the pork into a frying pan, and, when the fat is well cooked out, put in the liver and cook until nicely browned, first on one side and then on the other. Set the liver in a casserole or an ~ agate pudding dish. Cook two tablespoonfuls of flour in the hot fat; add about three cups of broth or water, and stir while heating to the boiling point. Pour this over the liver; add two sprigs of parsley, half a red pepper pod, a bunch of celery, cut in two-inch pieces, five or six car- rots, scraped and cut in lengthwise quarters, or in smaller pieces, if the carrots are large, and a half dozen onions peeled and browned in butter; cover and let cook two 90 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK hours in the oven. Remove the liver to a serving dish, and surround with the vegetables. Remove any fat on the gravy, and pour over the whole. Half a cup of tomato purée or of wine may replace an equal quantity of broth. Calf’s Liver, Hashed Cut one pound of calf’s liver into slices and pour over it boiling water to cover; let stand five or six minutes, then drain, wipe on a cloth and chop fine. Melt a tablespoon- ful of butter in a saucepan, put in the hashed liver, cover and let simmer very gently about one hour, stirring occa- sionally. Then add a dash of paprika, half a teaspoonful of salt and two or three tablespoonfuls of hot water or broth and serve when mixed thoroughly. Serve on rounds of buttered toast or with baked potatoes. Roast Spareribs of Pork Select a piece from young pork. If not too fat the ribs need not be trimmed, though the term “ spare ’’ would - indicate that the skin and a layer of fat had been removed from the ribs. If the skin be left, score it for cutting in slices; this is easily done with a thin, sharp knife. Dredge with salt, pepper and flour and set to cook in a very moder- ate oven; let cook twenty minutes for each pound, bast- ing every fifteen minutes with the dripping in the pan. To be wholesome, pork must be thoroughly cooked. If set to cook in too hot an oven, the outside will become seared over before the heat has penetrated the meat and the center will not be thoroughly cooked. Serve with apple sauce. Shoulder of Pork, Boned, Stuffed and Roasted Have the dealer remove the bones from a shoulder of young pig. Mix one cup of fine soft bread crumbs, one- MEATS 91 fourth a cup of melted butter; one-fourth a teaspoonful, each, of salt, pepper, sage and thyme and use to fill the opening from which the bone was taken; take a few stitches to hold the dressing within. Scorethe skin for carv- ing, brush over with dripping, dredge with flour and set to bake in a moderate oven. Let cook about three hours, basting frequently. Prepare an apple for each service. For eight apples make a syrup of one cup and a half, each, of sugar and water; in this cook the apples, turning often and watching constantly to keep the shape. When ten- der remove to an agate dish, press blanched-and-halved almonds into the top of each apple, dredge with granu- lated sugar and set into the oven to brown. Let the syrup boil a little, and use to fill the centers of the apples, set around the pork on the platter. Slices of tomato, dredged with buttered cracker crumbs, baked in the oven or broiled, on rounds of toast, may be served on the dish with the apples or may replace them entirely. Plain apple sauce or sliced or stewed tomatoes may replace the more ornamental dishes suggested. Sucking Pig, Roasted The pig may be from four to six weeks old. One six weeks old, and weighing sixteen pounds, though rather long to handle easily, will be found most delicate eating. Wash, and wipe inside and out with care, rub over the inside with salt, and, if desired, black pepper. Fill the cavity with a bread or other dressing, and sew up the slit made in dressing the pig. Wrap the ears and tail curled over the back, in buttered papers, fastening each secure with a stitch. Put a cork in the mouth, to hold it open. Tie two or three strips of cotton round the pig to hold it in an upright position, resting on the legs pressed forward. Rub the outside with salt and pepper, and dredge with flour. Set to cook in a moderate oven. Baste every 92 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK fifteen minutes with the fat in the pan or with butter melted in hot water. Cook from three to four hours. Turn the pig occasionally, that all sides and the under part may be evenly cooked. Serve with apple sauce and cabbage, celery, apple or orange salad. Bread Stuffing for Roast Pig Cut the liver in slices. Over these pour boiling water, and let stand ten or fifteen minutes, then drain. Add a dozen sage leaves, scalded in boiling water and drained, and three small, mild onions, parboiled until nearly tender and drained. Chop the whole very fine, then add ten or twelve ounces of stale bread, pressed through a colander, a teaspoonful or more of salt, and a generous measure of black pepper (half a teaspoonful will be none too much for some tastes). Mix thoroughly, then mix again with one- third a cup of melted butter. A pig a month old will take more dressing than is here given, but possibiy this quan- tity may suffice, as none is needed to keep the pig in shape. Boned Ham 4 la Ward McAllister Scrub the ham thoroughly. Cover with cold water, and heat to the boiling point. Let boil five minutes, then sim- mer six to seven hours. McAllister’s rule was “ until you can turn the bone.” A boned ham cannot be tested thus, but six hours of gentle simmering will suffice. Take the ham from the kettle, and set aside for twelve hours. An hour before serving put it into a baking-pan, pour over a pint of hot cider, and set into a hot oven. Baste with the cider every five minutes. Reheat in the same manner each time before serving. ‘‘ The oftener it is placed in the oven and heated, the better it becomes.” When the ham is taken from the oven, dredge the fat, from which the skin has been taken, with granulated MEATS . 93 sugar, and then score it with a poker heated in the coals. Slices of pared-and-cored apple, cooked tender in syrup and dredged with sugar, may be scored with the poker and used to garnish the dish. Serve apple sauce or apple-and- cress salad in a dish apart. Ham Soufflé 2 tablespoonfuls butter 2 cups milk 1 slice onion 14 cup soft bread crumbs 2 tablespoonfuls flour 2 cups chopped ham 14 teaspocnful paprika 3 eggs Melt the butter; in it cook the onion without letting it take color, add the flour and paprika, and stir until well blended; add the milk, stir until smooth and boiling, and strain it over the crumbs and ham; add the yolks beaten light and fold in the whites of the eggs beaten dry. Turn into a buttered baking dish, set the dish into a pan of boiling water on several folds of paper. Bake about twenty-five minutes, or until firm in the center. Serve at once from the dish with tomato sauce. Cold Ham Mousseline 14 cup chopped ham YY teaspoonful salt 4 cup hot chicken stock 4 teaspoonful paprika 4% tablespoonful granulated Y cup double cream gelatine Peas and slices of truffle 3 tablespoonfuls cold water Set a figure cut from a slice of truffle in the bottom of each of five timbale molds. Dispose a circle of cooked peas around the truffle and against the side of the mold. Soften the gelatine in the cold water and dissolve in the chicken stock; set the molds in ice and water; put a few drops of the liquid around the peas to hold them in place; to the rest of the gelatine mixture add the ham, salt, pepper and truffle trimmings cut fine; stir over ice water until beginning to “ set,’’.then fold in the cream 94 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK beaten very light and turn into the decorated molds. When unmolded serve with lettuce and French dressing. Jellied Fish, Ham, etc., with Lettuce Soften one-fourth a package of gelatine in one-fourth a cup of cold water, and dissolve in one cup and a fourth of hot, well seasoned broth. For fish, use fish or chicken broth; for ham or corned beef, use chicken or veal broth. Season the broth with carrot, parsley and onion — also sweet herbs if desired. Add about two cups of cooked ham or corned beef, chopped, or the same quantity of cooked fish, separated into flakes. Turn into molds. Serve unmolded, when cold, with lettuce and salad dress- ing. Cucumbers are good with the fish. Ham Croquettes Y4 cup butter 14 cups rich milk Y4 cup flour 1 cup boiled rice Y teaspoonful salt (scant) 1 cup chopped ham 1% teaspoonful paprika 1 egg, beaten light Make a sauce of the butter, flour, seasonings and milk; add the egg, cook until it thickens, but without boiling, then add the rice and ham (cooked). Mix thoroughly and turn on to a dish to become cold. Form into balls or cylinder shapes, roll in soft, sifted bread crumbs, then in a beaten egg diluted with three or four tablespoonfuls of milk or water, and again in crumbs. Fry in deep fat. Serve with peas, stewed tomatoes or tomato salad. Ham Réchauffée, with Poached Eggs Stir a cup of fine-chopped cooked ham into three- fourths a cup of hot white sauce; spread the mixture on slices of toast moistened on the edge in boiling salted water and spread with creamed butter into which a little mustard has been mixed. Set a poached egg (only fresh- MEATS 95 laid eggs can be poached properly) on the top of each slice. Allow a tablespoonful of butter and one-fourth a teaspoonful of mustard for each slice of toast or for each two slices. Common Sausages Prick the skins repeatedly on all sides, cover with boiling water, and let simmer ten to fifteen minutes; drain off the water and let cook in the oven until well browned. Serve with mashed or creamed potatoes. For luncheon, serve around and against a mound of mashed potatoes; pipe mashed potatoes between the sausage; also pipe rosettes of potato above and set balls cut from carrots, seasoned and tossed in butter between the rosettes. There should be at least one carrot ball for each service. A pound of sausage and a quart of mashed potato is needed for a handsome dish. Sausages 4 la Portland Prick the casings of the sausages repeatedly with a needle or steel fork, to prevent bursting. Set them in a dish on the back of the range, add boiling water to cover, and keep them at a temperature of about 165° F. from forty-five to ninety minutes, according to thickness. Dry on a cloth and broil over the coals. Serve on three slices of lightly buttered dry toast. Tomato sauce may be poured over if desired. Broiled Sausage, with Soubise Tomate Roll pork sausage meat, shaped in a bag, into flat cakes half an inch thick throughout. Dip these in melted bacon fat or butter and roll in soft, sifted bread crumbs, then broil over a slow fire. Pour tomato sauce, mixed with onion purée, on a hot dish; dispose the sausage above. Serve at luncheon or supper. _ 96 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Sauce Soubise Tomate Slice two mild onions and let cook in chicken broth or water until tender and the liquid is nearly evaporated; press the onions and broth through a very fine sieve. Add one-half the bulk of hot cream and an equal bulk of hot tomato sauce, also salt and pepper as needed. Do not boil after the cream and tomato are added. The onion purée should be quite consistent. Sausage Croquettes Season two cups of hot potato that has been pressed through a ricer with half a teaspoonful of salt, a few grains of paprika and one or two tablespoonfuls of butter; add the beaten yolk of an egg; mix and use to cover evenly some cold cooked sausage; shape by rolling on a board as with croquettes; dip in egg and roll in sifted bread crumbs; cook in deep fat. Drain on soft paper. Sausage, with Fried Cereal and Bananas Prick the required number of sausages freely with a fork, and set them, covered with cold water, in a sauce- pan over the fire. Let simmer ten minutes, then drain, and set into the oven to brown. Heat some fat, from a previous cooking of sausage, in an iron frying pan, and in it cook thin slices of cold breakfast cereal dredged with flour. Let the cereal become brown on one side, then turn, and let brown on the other side. At the same time have ready bananas removed from the skin and cut in halves lengthwise, and then crosswise. Dredge these on both sides with flour, and let cook in the hot fat until brown on one side, then turn, that the other side may be browned. MEATS 97 Sausages Baked, with Creamed Potatoes Chop fine four cold, boiled potatoes; season slightly with salt and dispose in a deep au gratin dish. Pour in cream to come nearly to the top of the potatoes. Prick the casings of one pound of sausages and lower them in a frying basket into a kettle of hot fat; count sixty, then remove and dispose over the potatoes. For a small frying kettle, cook the sausages in two lots, half a pound at atime. Pour over a cup of rather thick white sauce, one made with chicken or veal broth preferred. Use two and one-half tablespoonfuls of flour and two tablespoonfuls of butter to the cup of liquid. Cover the sauce with three- fourths a cup of cracker crumbs, mixed with three table- spoonfuls of melted butter. Let bake about fifteen min- utes. Serve for luncheon or supper. Bacon, with Fried Bananas Set slices of bacon between the wires of a double broiler. Put the broiler in an oven over a dripping pan. Let cook until the fat is well drawn out. In the fat sauté peeled bananas, scraped, cut in quarters and dipped in flour. Serve for breakfast or supper. Philadelphia Scrapple Cook a pig’s head in boiling water until the flesh slips easily from the bones. Take out the bones, and chop the meat fine. When the liquor in which the head was cooked has become cold, remove the fat, and reheat the liquor to the boiling point. Add the chopped meat, a teaspoonful of salt for each quart of liquid, and pepper to taste, and heat again to the boiling point. Then sift in through the fingers of one hand, while stirring with the other, as in making corn meal mush, enough corn meal to give the consistency of mush. Let boil vigorously several minutes, 98 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK then set back on the range to cook more slowly half an hour. Stir occasionally. When cooked, turn into bread pans and set aside in a-cool place. This may be kept several weeks in midwinter. When ready to use, cut into slices half an inch thick, and sauté in butter, bacon fat or drippings. Venison, with Sprouts and Chestnut Purée Have ready some rounds of venison about an inch thick, cut from the fillet under the rump and broiled as any steak; also pipe some chestnut purée on a serving dish; set the venison above and the sprouts at the ends of the dish. Pour Madeira sauce with slices of de beef marrow over the meat; or serve celery with Madeira sauce and mar- row at the same time. Purée of Chestnuts Cut a half-inch slit in one side of the chestnut shells; let cook in boiling water two minutes, drain and dry. To each pint of nuts add a teaspoonful of butter or oil and stir and shake in the oven three or four minutes; then inserting the point of a knife in the slit made in the shell before cooking, remove shell and skin together. Keep the nuts covered while shelling is in process — to acceler- ate the work. Stew the shelled and blanched nuts very gently in consommé until tender. Press the nuts through a ricer or sieve; add cream, salt, pepper and butter; beat thoroughly over the fire, then pipe, as above, on a hot place. Whole cooked chestnuts are often served with yprouts in place of the purée. Brussels Sprouts Free the sprouts of imperfect leaves, cover with cold water and let stand several hours to become crisp. Drain MEATS 99 and set to cook in boiling water slightly salted. Cook until tender; often they will cook in fifteen minutes, but sometimes considerably more time is required. Drain, add a generous piece of butter, a dash of salt and of pap- rika, and shake over the fire until the butter is evenly mixed through the sprouts. Turn on to a hot dish, sprinkle with fine-chopped parsley and add a few toast points. Dip the pointed edges of the toast in beaten white of egg and then in fine-chopped parsley. Any sprouts left over will make a good salad. CHAPTER VII VEGETABLES, HOMINY, MACARONI, ETC. Wilted vegetables should be freshened in cold water before cooking. Dried vegetables should be soaked in cold water several hours or overnight before cooking. All vegetables are set to cook in boiling water. All vegetables when done should be removed at once from the fire. Some vegetables, as spinach, asparagus, green peas, celery, tomatoes and others with but little starch should be simmered gently in very little water, and the liquid retained in the finished dish. Keep the water in which potatoes are cooking at the boiling point until the potatoes are done. Cook macaroni and rice in rapidly boiling water until done. Use a comparatively large quantity of water in cook- ing onions, cabbage and cauliflower; remove these vege- tables before all the crispness is gone. Add salt to the water in which all vegetables save those containing much woody fiber are cooking. Carrots, parsnips, turnips and salsify should not be cooked in salted water. After potatoes are cooked and drained, sprinkle with salt, and leave partly uncovered; the salt will take up the extra moisture and leave the potatoes mealy. VEGETABLES, HOMINY AND MACARONI, ETC. 101 Escaloped Potatoes and Onions Cut pared potatoes and peeled onions into very thin slices; dispose in alternate layers in a buttered baking dish, adding salt and pepper as desired. Pour on milk to cover the ingredients, and bake about three hours, adding more milk as needed. Fifteen minutes before serving, spread over the top two-thirds a cup of cracker crumbs mixed with one-third a cup of melted butter and let brown. ' This dish may be prepared with cooked potatoes and onions, when the cooking may be cut down to half an hour. French Fried Potatoes Pare potatoes of uniform size, cut each into quarters lengthwise, and the quarters into halves or thirds length- wise. Let stand several hours in cold water; drain and dry on a cloth. Set to cook in hot fat, a few at a time. Use a basket; when soft turn from the basket on to hot tissue or blotting paper. When all are cooked soft, re- turn them, a few at a time, to the reheated fat where they will quickly brown. Drain again on paper, sprinkle with salt and serve at once. Potatoes 4 la Brabanconne Pare, boil and mash six potatoes of medium size, then season with pepper and salt. Add two tablespoonfuls of butter, and sufficient cream or milk to make the mixture of the consistency usually sought for in mashed potato. When thoroughly beaten, add one-third an onion, grated, or a tablespoonful of onion juice, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley and four tablespoonfuls of fine-chopped ham. Put the mixture into a buttered pudding dish; cover the top with half a cup of cracker crumbs that have 102 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK been stirred into one-fourth a cup of melted butter, and bake about fifteen minutes. Potatoes Cooked in Milk Melt three tablespoonfuls of butter in an agate pan; add a pint of cold, boiled potatoes cut in thin slices; sprinkle with half a teaspoonful of salt, and turn the potatoes carefully over and over to mix them with the butter. Add about three-fourths a cup of milk, cover and let cook slowly until the milk is nearly absorbed. Lyonnaise Potatoes . Melt three tablespoonfuls of butter in a frying pan. Add a tablespoonful and a half of chopped or grated onion; stir and cook until the onion is softened and yellowed, then add a pint of cold, boiled potatoes cut into cubes or slices. Stir until the potato has absorbed the butter and browned slightly. Sprinkle with half a teaspoonful of salt, a dash of pepper and a tablespoonful of fine-chopped parsley. Mix thoroughly and serve in a hot dish. Hashed Brown Potatoes Chop six cold, boiled potatoes fine, adding salt and pepper. Put one-fourth a cup of fat into the frying pan, and, when hot, put in the prepared potatoes, and heat quickly. Press the potato into one side of the pan, and let brown on the bottom. When well browned, drain off superfluous fat, if there be any, and turn the potatoes on to a dish, the browned side up. Bacon fat or fat tried out from salt pork is usually preferred for this dish. Grilled Potatoes Cut cold, boiled potatoes in halves, lengthwise, and brush each piece on both sides with melted butter, olive oil VEGETABLES, HOMINY AND MACARONI, ETC. 103 or white bacon fat; set into a double broiler and let cook over a moderate fire, turning often, until hot through- out and somewhat browned. Set on a hot dish, sprinkle with salt, spread with creamed butter and serve at once. Sweet potatoes may be cooked in the same way. Broiled Tomatoes Cut the tomatoes in halves crosswise without removing the skins. Brush with butter generously, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Then sprinkle with buttered cracker crumbs; put into a well-oiled oyster broiler, and let broil over a moderate fire. These may be baked in the oven or broiled under a gas flame. They should be removed from the heat as soon as tender, before the shape is injured. Scalloped Tomatoes Mix one cup and a half of soft bread crumbs with one- third a cup of melted butter. Take a generous pint of canned tomatoes. Put a layer of the tomatoes into a baking dish suitable to send to the table; sprinkle on a few bits of fine cut green pepper, a teaspoonful of fine- chopped parsley and a little salt. Scrape on a little onion pulp. Add a layer of the crumbs. Continue in the same way until the ingredients are used, having the last layer crumbs. Bake about twenty minutes. If desired a little sugar — about a teaspoonful — may be sprinkled over each layer of tomatoes. Tomatoes 4 la St. Jacques 8 small tomatoes Salt and pepper 1% cups mushroom caps 34 cup cracker crumbs 1 cup white sauce ¥% cup melted butter 1 teaspoonful fine-chopped parsley 2 tablespoonfuls Parmesan cheese Remove a round piece about the stem end of the to- matoes, and scrape out the seed portions. Season inside 104 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK with salt and pepper. Peel the mushroom caps; leave them whole if small button mushrooms, if large, break in pieces. Sauté in a little butter, then stir into a cup of white sauce made with milk or stock; add the parsley and salt and pepper as needed and use to fill the toma- toes. Stir the crumbs into the butter and cheese and use to spread over the mixture in the tomatoes. Bake about twelve minutes. Serve on rounds of toast. Tomato Creole Cut in halves, crosswise, six large, fine tomatoes. Place in a buttered baking pan, and sprinkle over them two green peppers, fine-chopped, one teaspoonful of chopped onion, two tablespoonfuls of butter, in small pieces, and a liberal seasoning of salt and paprika. Let cook in the oven. Lift the tomato slices on to rounds of buttered toast. Then add to the liquor left in the bak- ing pan two tablespoonfuls of butter and two table- spoonfuls of flour, melted and browned. Stir well with a wire whisk. Add one cup of cream. Let it boil up. Then strain over tomatoes and toast. Stewed Tomatoes and Corn Peel four or five ripe tomatoes, cut in slices and set over the fire to simmer gently until the water is somewhat evaporated and the pulp is tender; add about half a teaspoonful, each, of paprika or black pepper and salt, and half a cup of green corn pulp, and let cook about six minutes, covered. Add two tablespoonfuls of butter, in little bits, and serve at once. Scalloped Tomatoes and Corn In a buttered baking dish dispose alternate layers of soft, sifted bread crumbs, sliced tomatoes and green corn VEGETABLES, HOMINY AND MACARONI, ETc. 105 cut from the cob. Season with scraped onion, fine- chopped green pepper and salt. Have the last layer of tomatoes; cover with three-fourths a cup of cracker crumbs mixed with one-third a cup of melted butter. Let cook about half an hour. Green Corn Oysters 1 pint corn pulp 2 eggs, well beaten teaspoonful salt 1 cup flour (about) 4 teaspoonful black pepper 1 teaspoonful baking powder To the corn pulp add the seasonings and eggs, and stir in the flour sifted with the baking powder. The exact measure of flour cannot be given, as the corn pulp will vary in thickness. Drop by teaspoonfuls into hot, salt pork fat, in a frying pan; when browned on one side turn to brown the other side. To get the pulp, score the kernels lengthwise of the rows with a sharp knife, then press out the pulp with the back of the knife, leaving the hulls on the cob. Corn Pudding 3 tablespoonfuls corn meal 1 tablespoonful butter 4 cup cold milk 1 cup corn pulp or 2 cups hot milk ¥4 can corn or kornlet 1 teaspoonful salt 2 eggs 14 teaspoonful paprika es Stir the cornmeal with the salt, paprika and cold milk, then stir into the hot milk. Cook and stir over boiling water until the mixture thickens; remove from the fire and stir in the other ingredients. Turn into a buttered baking dish suitable to send to the table; set on several folds of paper, in a dish of boiling water; let cook until the center is firm. Serve hot as a vegetable with the meat course, or with bread and butter at luncheon or supper. One or two tablespoonfuls of chopped green or red pepper is an addition to the dish well worth trying. 106 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Canned Corn Pudding, Nantucket Style Beat one egg. Add one cup of canned corn, half a cup of rolled cracker crumbs, half a cup (or less) of sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt and two cups of milk. Bake nearly an hour in a very slow oven. Serve hot, with butter, at luncheon or supper. Kohlrabi au Gratin Often the upper part of kohlrabi will cook tender very quickly while the lower half does not become tender even with long cooking. Pare the upper half of each “ globe ” and let cook in boiling water until tender; add salt a few moments before the cooking is completed. Dispose the vegetable in an au gratin dish, pour over a pint (to serve eight) of cream sauce, enriched with the beaten yolks of two eggs; sprinkle with grated cheese and set into the oven to melt the cheese. Serve as the principal hot dish at luncheon or supper. Stewed Cabbage Remove any imperfect leaves from a head of new cab- bage; cut in quarters and discard the hard portion in the center. Let stand in cold water about an hour; drain and shred rather coarse. Cover with boiling water and let cook, partly covered, from half to three-fourths of an hour; drain in a colander and return to the fire with (for a quart) a cup of cream and stir until boiling; add a tea- spoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of paprika, and a tablespoonful of butter, in little bits. Let simmer two or three minutes, then serve. Stewed Cabbage, Hollandaise Cook the cabbage as above and return to the fire. Beat one-third a cup of butter to a cream; beat in the VEGETABLES, HOMINY AND MACARONI, ETc. 107 yolks of three eggs, one at a time, half a teaspoonful of paprika, a teaspoonful of salt and the juice of a lemon; stir this through the hot cabbage; let cook a moment, without boiling, when the dish is ready to serve. Cabbage au Gratin Cut half a boiled cabbage fine. Make a pint of white sauce. Put a layer of cabbage in a buttered baking-dish, sprinkle with a tablespoonful of grated cheese and pour over a little of the sauce. Add other layers in the same way, having the last layer of sauce, and cover the top with half a cup of cracker crumbs stirred into three tablespoonfuls of melted butter. Bake until the crumbs are browned. Summer Squash, Fried Pare young summer squash and cut in slices less than half an inch thick; season with salt and pepper and dip in fritter batter. Let fry, in a frying pan, in hot salt pork or bacon fat or in deep fat, as is most convenient. Asparagus Sprew, Buttered Cut off the tips of asparagus stalks. The tips should be two inches in length. Set these to cook by themselves in boiling, salted water. Cut the remainder of the tender stalks into half-inch lengths and cook as usual. Have ready squares of toasted bread; drain the water from the asparagus, dip the edges of the toast in the hot asparagus water and spread generously with butter. Put one-fourth a cup of butter into the bits of asparagus with salt and pepper as needed; shake until the asparagus has taken up the butter, then dispose on the toast. Set the tips above the sprew, sprinkle with melted butter and serve at once. 108 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Jerusalem Artichokes Jerusalem artichokes resemble potatoes in appearance, but in composition they are more like turnips. Pare and throw into cold water, to keep them from turning black. Set to cook in boiling, salted water. When nearly tender (twenty or twenty-five minutes) prepare a white sauce — a cup is enough for four or five potatoes — using half cream and half water, in which the artichokes were cooked, as the liquid. Drain the cooked artichokes, shake over a hot stove lid to dry off, then turn into a hot dish and pour the sauce over them. A little onion or lemon juice, or both, may be added to the sauce. Jerusalem Artichokes with Meat Pare and trim the artichokes and cut them into halves; bring to the boiling point in boiling, salted water, and let boil two or three minutes, drain and dispose around a roast of beef or mutton. Cook about thirty-five minutes, basting with the liquid in the pan each ten minutes. Jerusalem Artichokes au Gratin Boil the artichokes as usual, then cut into cubes. Dis- pose the cubes in an earthen dish in layers, alternately, with cream or Bechamel sauce; sprinkle each layer with grated cheese; cover the last layer with bread or cracker crumbs mixed with melted butter, and set the dish into the oven, to brown the crumbs. French Artichokes Two distinct portions of a French or globe artichoke are eaten, — the heart or bottom which holds the purple (white when suitable for cooking) flowerets, and the lower ends of the sepals. Often the choicer part, the bottoms or hearts, are served separately, one as a service. Then VEGETABLES, HOMINY AND MACARONI, ETc. 109 the sepals forming the calyx, with sauce in the center, are served without the heart. The calyx of ane artichoke constitutes a service. This custom is quite universal in clubs, restaurants and hotels where large numbers are served & la carte. To eat the lower ends of the sepals, take a sepal in the fingers, dip the lower end into the sauce provided, and draw the lower part of the sepal between the teeth, to separate the edible from the un- edible portion. Hollandaise, Bechamel or drawn butter sauce are suitable. French Artichokes, Boiled Pull off all coarse or discolored sepals, and cut the stem close to the sepals. Rub over the cut surface of the stem with the juice of a lemon, to keep it white. Set to cook in boiling, salted water and let boil until the heart is tender. Pull back the sepals, to rest on the plate in a circle around the heart; with a spoon lift the flowerets (white or purple) from the heart, to which they are at- tached. The outer flowerets resemble the sepals in shape, the inner ones are like the purple or white part of a thistle. Broiled Egg-Plant Cut the egg-plant in halves lengthwise, then cut each half in slices half an inch thick and remove the peel; brush over with olive oil or melted butter, and pat in sifted, soft bread crumbs seasoned with salt and paprika. Broil over a moderate fire eight to ten minutes, turning often. Set on a hot dish, sprinkle with salt and pepper and dot, here and there, with bits of butter. Stuffed Egg-Plant Cut the egg-plant in halves lengthwise, and cook in boiling salted water until tender. Drain carefully, then 110 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK remove the pulp, to leave two thin shells. Chop fine half a small mild onion, and let cook in two tablespoon- fuls of butter until softened and slightly yellowed; chop the pulp of the egg-plant and six fresh mushrooms (or the equivalent in dried mushrooms soaked in cold water) ; add the onion and half a cup or more of fine-chopped, cooked meat or nuts; season as needed with salt and pepper and use to fill the shells. Cover the filling with three-fourths a cup of cracker crumbs mixed with one- third a cup of melted butter and let cook about fifteen minutes. Serve with tomato sauce. The mixture may be baked in a shallow dish instead of the shells. Salsify, Melted Butter Scrape the roots from the crown downward; cut in inch-lengths into cold water acidulated with vinegar or lemon juice. Boil in salted, acidulated water until tender, then drain. For a pint of salsify, put three or four table- spoonfuls of butter and a scant half teaspoonful, each, of salt and pepper into a saucepan; add the salsify; set the pan on the back of the range and shake the salsify in it until it is evenly coated. Serve in a hot dish. Half a cup of hot cream may be added, or the salsify may be stirred into a cup and a half of white or cream sauce. Stewed Okra, Creole Style Wash okra pods and cut from the ends to make them of uniform length. Put two dozen pods in a saucepan with a tablespoonful of butter; add half a green pepper and half an onion, both chopped fine. Let cook five or six minutes, then add two tomatoes, skinned and cut in small pieces, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and salt to taste; let simmer about twenty minutes. Serve in a hot dish. VEGETABLES, HOMINY AND MACARONI, ETc. 111 Baked Cauliflower Boil a cauliflower, taking care that it be rather under than over done. Trim the stalk so that the cauliflower will stand level. Do not remove the tender leaves. Put in a well buttered baking dish that may be sent to the table, and dust with salt and black pepper. Have pre- pared a cup of sauce made of chicken broth. Add two tablespoonfuls of thick cream and one-fourth a cup of grated cheese (American factory or Parmesan). Pour the sauce over the cauliflower to fill all the crevices. Sprinkle a layer of grated cheese over the whole, and bake ten or fifteen minutes. Substitute milk for chicken stock, if desired. Cauliflower Maitre d’Hétel Let a choice head of cauliflower stand, head down- wards, in cold salted water an hour or longer. Cook in boiling, salted water until just tender. Cream one-fourth a cup of butter and gradually beat into it half a teaspoon- ful, each, of salt and paprika and one tablespoonful of lemon juice. Trim the stalk before cooking, that the cauliflower may stand level on the serving dish, also select a flat rather than a rounding head. Have ready one or two lemons, according to the size of the cauliflower; cut in thin, even slices and sprinkle the slices with fine- chopped parsley. Spread the sauce over the cauliflower and dispose the slices of lemon above in a symmetrical manner. A slice of lemon accompanies each service. Succotash Scrape, wash and score in quarter-inch slices a quarter of a pound of salt pork. Cover with boiling water and let simmer five or six hours, or until nearly tender. Add one pint of fresh-shelled Lima beans, and more water, if 112 | THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK needed. When the beans become tender, add one pint of sweet corn pulp. Cook about fifteen minutes, and add two tablespoonfuls of butter, or a little sweet cream, and salt, if needed. Pour the succotash into the serving dish, slice the pork in the scorings, and serve at once. This dish is particularly good prepared with dried beans and either dried or canned corn. If dried vegetables be used, let soak over night in cold water. Green Peppers, Stuffed 3 green peppers 4 cooked mushrooms 1 slice mild onion Y% teaspoonful parsley 1 tablespoonful butter 14 cup raw sausage 1 tablespoonful cooked ham Y{ teaspoonful salt 1 tablespoonful flour Y% cup soft bread crumbs ¥4 cup broth 1 cup butter, melted 24 cup cracker crumbs Put the peppers in boiling water; after two or three minutes remove and with a cloth rub off the outer skin; cut each in halves, lengthwise, and remove seeds and veins. Chop fine the onion, ham, mushrooms and parsley. Melt the butter, add the chopped ingredients and stir a few minutes; add the flour, stir until blended, then add the broth and stir until boiling; add the sausage and salt; stir until well mixed, then let cook about ten minutes, stirring occasionally; add the bread crumbs and use to fill the half-peppers. Mix the cracker crumbs through the melted butter and spread over the mixture in the peppers. Bake until the crumbs are browned. Onions Stuffed with Sausage Parboil the requisite number of mild onions about an hour, changing the water twice, replenishing with boiling water. Drain and remove the centers, leaving a thin shell of onion. Fill these centers with pork sausage, rounding the top. Bake about an hour, basting four or VEGETABLES, HOMINY AND MACARONI, ETc. 113 five times with the dripping in the pan or with melted butter. Serve with white sauce if used as an entrée; serve without sauce if used with a roast (as turkey) ac- companied with a sauce. Stuffed Onions Parboil or steam six or eight choice onions about one hour. Remove from the water and cut out a circular piece from the top of each to form cups. Chop fine the pieces of onion, add an equal measure of cold, cooked veal or chicken, salt and pepper to season, one-fourth a cup, each, of fine soft crumbs and melted butter and mix thoroughly. Season the inside of the cups with salt, then stuff with the prepared mixture. Bake slowly about half an hour, basting with melted butter. Serve with white sauce. String Beans, with Maitre d’Hétel Butter After the cooked beans have been made very hot in boiling water, drain and stir into them one-fourth a cup of creamed butter, to which a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, one-fourth a teaspoonful of black pepper, a tablespoonful of lemon juice, and salt, if needed, have been added. Serve very hot. Dried or canned Lima beans and peas may be served according to this recipe. String Beans, with Cheese Drain, rinse and drain again a can of string beans. Put over the fire in boiling water; let heat while a cup of white sauce is made, using milk or white stock as the liquid. Add the beans and one-fourth a cup of grated cheese. Lift the beans with a silver fork occasionally, until the cheese is melted. Serve very hot. If intended for the substantial dish of the meal, add to the sauce the beaten yolks of one or two eggs and a little cream. 114 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Baked Lima Beans (Dried Beans) Wash a quart of Lima beans. Let soak over night or several hours, then drain and put over the fire to cook in water to cover. Cover and cook about an hour and a half, adding more boiling water as needed to keep them covered. Season with salt and pepper and stir in two tablespoonfuls of butter and flour creamed together. Let boil, then turn into a baking dish; cover the top with half a cup of cracker crumbs, mixed with two tablespoon- fuls of melted butter. Let bake about fifteen minutes. Fresh beans may be prepared in the same manner, the time of boiling being made less. Dried Lima beans may also be cooked as Boston baked beans. Lima Beans in Cream This dish is at its best when made with fresh, or green, Lima beans, but canned or dried beans give excellent results. Canned beans should be rinsed in cold water and drained; fresh beans should be cooked until tender and the water nearly evaporated. Soak dried beans over night in cold water, drain and set to cook in a fresh supply of water; cook until tender, replenishing the water as needed; when tender the water should be reduced to one or two tablespoonfuls. To a pint of fresh or canned beans, or a cup of dried beans, add two tablespoonfuls of butter, half a teaspoonful, each, of salt and black pepper, and cook and toss in the pan about five minutes, taking care to keep the beans whole; add one-third a cup of hot cream; turn into the serving dish and sprinkle with a little fine-chopped parsley. String Beans, Spanish Style _ Take two pounds of green string beans and chop fine. Put one tablespoonful of bacon drippings in a frying VEGETABLES, HOMINY AND MACARONI, ETc. 115 pan, add one onion, cut fine, and half a dry red pepper, cut fine; let onion and pepper cook until softened, then add three ripe tomatoes, cut fine, and stir in one table- spoonful of flour; then add one quart of cold water; then the chopped beans, with salt and pepper to taste, and let the beans cook until tender; keep adding water as needed, so as not to let them get too dry.: Baked Beans, Spanish Fashion Let a pint of dried beans (California, pea, yellow eyed, flageolet or Lima beans) stand covered with cold water over night; rub the beans between the hands.and rinse in cold water. Again cover with cold water and let heat slowly to the boiling point, then let simmer five minutes, adding at the last a teaspoonful of soda. Drain and rinse with cold water. Turn a layer of the beans into a baking dish, sprinkle with sweet red peppers, chopped fine, and a little salt; add also a slice or two of bacon, cut in tiny squares; continue the layers until the beans are used. Have ready cooked tomatoes, pressed through a sieve to exclude seeds; add these to the beans until they are well covered. Bake in a hot oven about four hours. Boston Baked Beans Let one pint of pea beans soak in cold water over night. In the morning wash and rinse in several waters. Par- boil until they may be pierced with a pin. Change the water during the parboiling, adding a teaspoonful of soda with the last water. Rinse thoroughly in hot water. Put one-half of the beans into the bean-pot. Pour scald- ing water over one-fourth a pound of salt pork and, after scraping the rind thoroughly, score it in half-inch strips. Lay the pork on the beans in the pot, and turn in the rest of the beans. Mix two tablespoonfuls of molasses and 116 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK one teaspoonful, each, of mustard and salt, with hot water to pour, and turn over the beans. Then add boil- ing water to cover. Bake about eight hours in a moder- ate oven. Keep the beans covered with water and the cover on the pot until the last hour. Then remove the cover, and bring the pork to the top, to brown the rind. Beans are better baked in large quantity. Boston Baked Bean Croquettes Press cold baked beans through a ricer or sieve. To a pint add three or four drops of Tabasco sauce, two or three tablespoonfuls of tomato catsup and, if liked, a teaspoonful or more of grated horseradish mixed with vinegar. Shape into small balls with a teaspoonful: of baked beans left whole in the center. Roll in soft, sifted bread crumbs, then in a beaten egg diluted with cold water and again in crumbs. Fry in deep fat about one minute. For an hors d’ceuvre make the balls the size of an English walnut, seasoning more highly than given above. Serve one or two as a service. Pass at the same time olives or small gherkins and very small Boston brown bread sandwiches. Curry of Baked Beans This dish may be made of left over Boston baked beans, or a tablespoonful of curry powder and two onions, sliced and cooked brown in two tablespoonfuls of salt pork fat, may be added to one pint of pea beans after they are disposed in the bean pot. For a pint of the left over beans, slice an onion in two tablespoonfuls of salt- pork fat, stir constantly and let cook until browned delicately; add from half to a whole tablespoonful of curry powder and half a cup of tomato purée and let simmer ten minutes, then strain over the beans, cover VEGETABLES, HOMINY AND MACARONI, ETC. 117 and set into the oven to become hot throughout. If the beans are rather dry, use a little more of the purée. When done there should not be an overabundance of liquid. Baked Beans and Pork, New York Style Let a pint of pea beans soak over night in water to cover generously. In the morning drain off the water; add fresh water and wash and rub the beans through the hands in the water. Turn the beans into a colander and let cold water run through them. Then cover with cold water and put over the fire to cook. Dip one-fourth a pound of salt pork into boiling water, and scrape the outer surface, including the rind, thoroughly, then put the pork into the beans to cook. When the skins of the beans are easily pierced, remove them from the fire, add a teaspoon- ful of salt and turn them into a rather shallow baking dish (a tin or agate dish answers nicely). Score the rind of the pork, for cutting into slices, and press it down into the beans in the middle of the dish, cover with an agate plate and bake in a moderate oven from four to six hours. Add boiling water as needed during the first of the cook- ing. Do not add water during the last hour. Just before the last hour, remove the cover, to brown the top of the beans and pork. Serve hot with tomato catsup, mustard pickles and the like. Rice, Spanish Style Put two frying pans on the stove, and in each put one teaspoonful of bacon fat. Take one onion and four green chilis, chop very fine, sprinkle with a little salt; put this in one frying pan and cook until softened with- out browning. In the other pan put one cup of rice, washed and dried; stir and let cook a light brown; add the onion and chilis and one cup of tomato; then fill the frying pan with boiling water and let cook until rice is dry. 118 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Macaroni in Cream Sauce 34 cup macaroni 1 cup milk 1 cup milk ¥4 teaspoonful salt 2 tablespoonfuls butter 4 tablespoonfuls grated cheese 2 tablespoonfuls flour Cook the macaroni in boiling, salted water until tender; drain and rinse in cold water, then drain again. Make a sauce of the butter, flour, salt and milk; add the macaroni and cheese; lift the macaroni repeatedly with two forks to mix evenly. Let stand over boiling water, covered, to become very hot. Broth and tomato purée, half and half, may replace the milk. Hominy Croquettes, Cheese Sauce 4 cup hominy Ys teaspoonful salt | 2 cups canned tomato, strained 14 teaspoonful paprika and hot 2 tablespoonfuls butter Wash and drain the hominy, add the tomato and season- ings and let cook in a double boiler until the hominy is done; stir in the butter and turn into a shallow dish; when cool enough to handle form into balls or cylinder shapes; roll in soft sifted crumbs, then in beaten egg and again in crumbs. Fry in deep fat. For the sauce use the ingredients in making the ordinary white sauce; in this melt the cheese. Sauce 2 tablespoonfuls butter 1 cup milk 2 tablespoonfuls flour 4 cup grated cheese V4 teaspoonful salt Plain Rice Croquettes, Cheese Sauce Blanch one cup of rice (by boiling two minutes and rinsing). Add four cups of milk and three-fourths a tea- spoonful of salt and let cook until the rice is tender and the milk absorbed. Have ready a cup or more of sifted VEGETABLES, HOMINY AND MACARONI, ETc. 119 bread crumbs from the center of a loaf of bread that has been baked at least twenty-four hours; also an egg beaten with three tablespoonfuls of milk. Take the rice in round- ing tablespoonfuls, form into cylinder or triangle shapes, roll in the crumbs, then pour over the egg to cover com- pletely and again roll in the crumbs. Fry in deep fat and drain on soft paper. Serve with cheese sauce and tomato- and-lettuce salad. Spaghetti 4 la Mexicana Fry three large pork chops brown. Fry three minced onions and two cloves of garlic in pork drippings. Put the chops and onions into a granite kettle with two cans of tomatoes and two green chili pepper pods (remove the seeds), one tablespoonful, each, of dry chili powder, brown sugar, tarragon vinegar and sage, one teaspoonful. of Worcestershire sauce and celery salt, and table salt to suit; let simmer slowly until the pork chops fall to pieces; strain through coarse colander. This sauce should be of the consistency of thick cream, without adding any thickening. Boil one-half a package of spaghetti in large kettle of salted boiling water; do not break into short pieces, but drop ends into the water and gradually immerse the whole stick. Keep the water boiling rapidly, adding boiling water as it boils down; do not cover; let boil forty-five minutes, drain in colander and pour one quart of cold water through to blanch. Put the spaghetti into the tomato sauce and set on stove where it will keep hot, but not boil, for fifteen minutes. Arrange in a deep platter and sprinkle the top with grated Parmesan cheese. CHAPTER VIII SALADS A salad at dinner should be seasoned with French dress- ing; such salads are served with the fish or roast. A salad dressed with mayonnaise is appropriate at luncheon, high tea, card party, reception or banquet. A green vegetable salad should be served as soon as it is dressed. Cooked materials may be seasoned (marinated) with French dressing and left to stand some time; but should be served as soon as possible after the addition of mayon- naise dressing. ; Mayonnaise loses its creamy consistency ‘(liquefies) .when mixed with other articles. - A salad is not an acid dish, and in all dressings vinegar or lemon juice should be used sparingly. French Dressing 3 tablespoonfuls oil 14 teaspoonful salt 1 to 3 tablespoonfuls lemon -\ 4 teaspoonful pepper juice or vinegar The ingredients for the dressing may be mixed and - poured at once over the salad matevfials, which are then turned over and over until the, dréssing has been taken up by them; or the condiments, mixed with the oil, may be first used, then, after each leaf or separate piece has been thoroughly coated with the oil, the acid may be poured on and the salad turned over and over until the acid is evenly mixed throughout. SALADS 121 French Dressing with Mustard (Particularly good for green salads and beans of all kinds) Use from a teaspoonful to a tablespoonful of mixed mustard to the ingredients given, on page 120, for French Dressing. Put the mustard — brown in color, such as is put up in bottles ready for table use — in a bowl, add the condiments, then gradually beat in the oil and, lastly, the vinegar. The inside of the bowl may be rubbed over with a clove of garlic cut in halves, or one-fourth a teaspoonful of onion juice or pulp may be added to the mustard. French Dressing with Chili Sauce Put two tablespoonfuls of chili sauce, one tablespoonful of vinegar, three tablespoonfuls of olive oil, and one- fourth a teaspoonful, each, of salt and paprika into a fruit jar; adjust a rubber and cover securely, then shake to form a thick emulsion. Use with a green vegetable salad. The vinegar is often omitted. Vinaigrette Sauce 3 tablespoonfuls vinegar Two or more tablespoonfuls 14 teaspoonful salt fine-chopped parsley, chives, V4 teaspoonful pepper chevril and terragon 6.tablespoonfuls oil This dressing is good for asparagus and other cooked vegetable salads. The dressing is mixed in the same manner as is French dressing. Russian Salad Dressing 1 cup mayonnaise ¥ teaspoonful paprika 1 cup olive oil 1 teaspoonful pimientos, chopped fine 1 teaspoonful vinegar 1 teaspoonful green pepper, chopped fine 1G teaspoonful salt ¥ cup chili sauce 122 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Beat the extra oil into the mayonnaise, add the other ingredients except the chili sauce, then gradually beat in the chili sauce. Nicoise Dressing 14 teaspoonful mustard 1 cooked egg-yolk, sifted 1 teaspoonful chives, chopped-fine 1 teaspoonful chili sauce Y teaspoonful salt 4 tablespoonfuls olive oil 4 teaspoonful paprika 1 tablespoonful vinegar 1 teaspoonful parsley, chopped-fine Grated onion or shallot may replace the chives; mix the dry ingredients with the egg-yolk, then gradually beat in the other ingredients. Roquefort Cheese Salad Dressing 2 ounces or 4 cup Roquefort cheese 14 teaspoonful salt (scant) 4 to 6 tablespoonfuls olive oil ¥ teaspoonful paprika 2 to 3 tablespoonfuls vinegar Beat the cheese to a cream (use a wooden spoon), then gradually beat in the oil, vinegar and seasonings. The uncooked yolk of an egg is sometimes beaten into the cheese, and thick cream may replace part of the oil. This dressing is particularly good with lettuce, endive, sliced tomatoes and cold boiled cauliflower. Serve with crack- ers or bread in some form, but not with meat or fish dishes. Mayonnaise Dressing Beat the yolks of two eggs until light colored and thick. Add half a teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth a teaspoonful or more of paprika, and beat again. Then beat in four tablespoonfuls of acid, — lemon or vinegar, or half of each, as is preferred. When the mixture is smooth, beat in half a teaspoonful of olive oil. Continue beating in the oil, increasing the quantity to a teaspoonful, and finally to a tablespoonful, until a pint has been added. Lastly, beat in two tablespoonfuls of boiling water, one at a SALADS ; 123 time. In making the dressing, use a Dover egg-beater, and beat vigorously from the start. If the dressing is to stand any time before using, cover the receptacle with a glass or china plate, and set it aside in a cool place. Beat the full quantity of acid given into the yolks at first, or the oil cannot be added in the quantity indicated. Fol- low the directions carefully, and a smooth, perfect mayon- naise may be assured. Boiled Salad Dressing, with Whites of Egg and Cream Mix half a teaspoonful of mustard, half a teaspoonful of salt and a generous fourth a teaspoonful of paprika. Add the yolks of two eggs, and mix thoroughly. Add one-fourth a cup of butter and one-fourth a cup of cider vinegar or lemon juice and vinegar, half and half. Set the saucepan over hot water, and stir until the mixture becomes smooth and thick. Then remove from the fire, and beat in the white of one egg, beaten dry. Return the saucepan to the hot water, if needed, to set the egg. Beat the mixture constantly while it is in the hot water. When the mixture is cold and the salad ready to serve, fold in half a cup of thick cream, beaten solid. Romaine Salad Discard the outer green leaves and detach the others from the stem. Look over the leaves carefully and wipe with a damp cloth if needed, or if necessary wash quickly in cold water and dry on a cloth. Dispose in a salad bowl, and when ready to serve pour on about a tablespoonful of dressing for each service. Salad Dressing for Romaine Rub a soup plate with a clove of garlic, cut in halves; put in half a teaspoonful, each, of salt, white pepper, 124 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK chili Colorado (mild Mexican pepper) and curry powder, a teaspoonful of fine-chopped parsley, the grated yellow rind of half a small lemon and a teaspoonful of grated onion. Mix together thoroughly; add four tablespoon- fuls of oil and crush the solid ingredients in the oil; add two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, mix again and strain over the romaine. This will serve four people. Lima Bean Salad Over a pint of cold, cooked Lima beans pour three or four tablespoonfuls of olive oil, two tablespoonfuls of cider vinegar, one teaspoonful of grated onion pulp, half a teaspoonful of salt and half a teaspoonful of paprika. Toss and mix; dispose on a serving dish, and surround with a “ pin-money mangoe”’ chopped fine. Serve at once or let stand in a cool place for some time before serving. Lima-and-Black-Bean Salad Let one cup each of Lima and black beans soak over night, separately, in cold water; drain, wash in cold water, drain and set to cook in cold water. After boil- ing begins, replenish with boiling water as needed and let cook until tender. Season with salt when about three- fourths cooked. When cold, season, separately with oil, vinegar, onion juice, paprika, chopped parsley and about one-fourth a teaspoonful of mustard or curry powder. Let stand until well seasoned. Serve in a bowl lined with lettuce hearts. Dispose the dark beans in the center and the light ones around the edge. String Bean Salad in Crown of Eggs Cut four hard-cooked eggs in lengthwise quarters, and trim the quarters to stand level. Soften a teaspoonful SALADS 125 of gelatine in cold water and dissolve with just as little boiling water as possible. Select a plate with a pattern that gives a circle about five and one-half inches in diam- eter. Dip the trimmed ends of the egg quarters in the gelatine and set them, one after another, upright on this circle, the yolks outward. Have the plate chilled and the sections of egg will adhere to the plate. Set the plate aside in the refrigerator until ready to serve. Season one pint of cold, cooked string beans with half a teaspoonful salt, one-fourth a teaspoonful of paprika, four or five tablespoonfuls of oil, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar and about one-fourth a teaspoonful of onion juice. Let stand in a cool place an hour or more, then add more oil or other seasoning if needed, and turn inside the crown (ring) of eggs. A tuft of heart-leaves of lettuce may be set in the top of the beans and single leaves back of the sections of egg. Baked-Bean-and-Tomato Salad Stir together three tablespoonfuls of vinegar, six tablespoonfuls of oil, half a teaspoonful of scraped onion and half a teaspoonful, each, of salt and paprika. Pour part of the mixture over a pint of cold Boston baked beans; toss until the beans are coated with the dressing, then turn into asalad bowl. Set a border of peeled-and- sliced tomatoes round the beans and turn the rest of the dressing over them. Cold Lima, kidney or string beans may be served in the same way. Tomato-Jelly-and-Baked-Bean Salad Stew two cups and a half of tomatoes, two slices of onion, two cloves, three branches of parsley, half a tea- spoonful of salt, half a red or green pepper pod, or half a teaspoonful of paprika, fifteen minutes. Press through a 126 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK sieve. There should be nearly two cups of purée; add one-fourth a package of gelatine, softened in one-fourth a cup of cold water; stir until the gelatine is dissolved, then turn into a shallow dish. Mix three tablespoonfuls of olive oil, one and a half tablespoonfuls of vinegar, one- fourth a teaspoonful, each, of salt and pepper and a tea- spoonful of grated onion, and pour over one pint of cold baked beans; toss and mix together and turn into the center of a dish. Unmold the tomato jelly and cut it into small cubes. Prepare two-thirds as much dressing as was mixed for the beans, pour it over the cubes of tomato and dispose these around the beans. Sprinkle the whole with fine-chopped parsley or parsley and green pepper mixed, and serve at once. Egg-and-Tomato Salad Cut hard-cooked eggs in quarters, after removing a slice from one end that the eggs may stand level. On individual plates set slices of ripe tomato with two or three heart-leaves of lettuce; on each slice of tomato set one of the prepared eggs, held together with a ring cut from a slice of tomato. Surround with mayonnaise dressing. Stuffed Tomato Salad Peel small tomatoes, cut out the hard pieces around the stem ends and remove the seed portions to make tomato cups. Sprinkle inside lightly with salt and pepper, and fill with equal portions of celery and walnuts cut in pieces and mixed with mayonnaise dressing. Serve on lettuce leaves and garnish with curled celery. Pass mayonnaise in a separate dish. Bits of cooked chicken, veal or ham may replace the nuts, or be used with them. SALADS 127 Tomato-and-Onion Salad Peel and slice ripe tomatoes; peel and cut in thin slices one or two mild, white young onions. Prepare a French dressing according to the usual formula. Put the onions in the salad bowl and pour over the dressing; with the salad fork and spoon turn the slices of onion over and over in the dressing, pressing upon them to extract some of the flavor. Add the slices of tomato and turn them carefully in the bowl, to keep the shape while the dressing is absorbed. At the last, tuck in some tender heart- leaves of lettuce and serve at once. The onion may be served or not according to taste. * 1912 Salad ” 4 cup olive oil Y{ teaspoonful salt Juice of 4 a lemon 4 teaspoonful paprika ; Juice of 14 an orange 1 teaspoonful Worcestershire 1 teaspoonful grated onion sauce 3 teaspoonfuls parsley, chopped Y teaspoonful mustard fine Put the ingredients for the dressing into a fruit jar, adjust one or two rubbers and the cover, and shake until the mixture is smooth and thickened a little. This is sufficient for eight portions. Select smooth, firm to- matoes; peel and cut into slices a generous half-inch thick; stamp out small rounds from the slices and insert in the center of each slice four or five cooked asparagus tips. Dispose on heart-leaves of lettuce. Cut the small rounds into cubes and dispose these, with several olives and cooked chestnuts, cut in slices, at one side, then pour on the dressing and serve at once. Tomato-Jelly-and-Asparagus Salad 214 cups tomato ¥ teaspoonful salt 2 slices onion 1% package gelatine 2 stalks parsley % cup cold water 4 green pepper 128 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Cook the vegetables fifteen minutes, add the salt and the gelatine softened in the cold water and strain into a shallow dish. When ready to serve, turn the jelly on to a clean sheet of paper, and with a knife dipped in boiling water cut the jelly in half-inch cubes. Dispose the cubes on heart-leaves of lettuce; above set a row or layer of cooked asparagus tips. Pour over half a cup of French dressing. Lengthwise quarters of hard cooked eggs may be added as a garnish. Tomato Jelly, Quickly Made Soften one-fourth a package of gelatine in one-fourth a cup of cold water, add half a cup of boiling water and one cup and a half of chili sauce. Set aside in a shallow pan or in individual dishes to harden. Serve with lettuce and French dressing, or cut in cubes as a garnish to any variety of salad. Cucumber Jelly Pare two cucumbers and cut in slices; add a slice of onion, a stalk of celery, half a tablespoonful of nasturtium seeds, a piece of green pepper pod and half a teaspoonful of sweet herbs, with water to cover. Let simmer until the cucumber is tender, then press through a very fine sieve. Season with salt, pepper and a tablespoonful of lemon juice. Then add, for each pint of liquid, one-third a package of gelatine, softened in one-third a cup of cold water and dissolved over hot water. Tint delicately with green vegetable color-paste and turn into molds to harden. Serve, with any salad dressing, in the same ways that tomato jelly is used. Cucumber-and-Pimiento Salad Pare a chilled cucumber and cut it into julienne pieces (like a match but shorter); remove pimientos from a can, EGG SALAD, AURORE. Page 131 FIN DE SIECLE SALAD. Page 131 LOBSTER SALAD. Page 133 DATE-AND-BANANA SALAD. Page 134 SALADS 129 rinse in cold water, dry on a cloth and cut in shreds similar in size and shape to those of the cucumber. Use equal measures of each. Dress each separately with French dressing to which a little grated or scraped onion has been added. Dispose in the salad bowl separately, one as a wreath around the other, or mix the two together. Particularly good with fish. Cauliflower-and-Beet Salad Dress flowerets of cold, cooked cauliflower with oil, salt, pepper and vinegar, or lemon juice. Dress the shredded outside leaves of a head of lettuce, and a beet cut in figures, and the chopped trimmings, each separately with the same ingredients. Dispose the lettuce on the center of a serving dish, and the carefully drained cauliflower above. Sprinkle with the figures cut from the beets, and dispose the chopped beets in points around the central mass. Serve mayonnaise in a dish apart. Potato Salad 1 quart potato cubes 1 teaspoonful salt 1 cup tiny carrot cubes Y% teaspoonful paprika 6 flowerets cooked cauliflower 14 teaspoonful mustard 8 slices fine-chopped onion 4 hard cooked eggs 2 tablespoonfuls chopped parsley 2 tomatoes 2 tablespoonfuls piccalilli 1 cup mayonnaise dressing 8 tablespoonfuls olive oil Capers and parsley : 4 tablespoonfuls vinegar The cubes of potato should be half an inch in diameter. Cut the carrots in julienne pieces, then when these are cooked cut them into tiny cubes; break the flowerets of ‘cauliflower into small pieces. Put the onion, parsley and piccalilli into a wooden bowl and chop all together until very fine, then add to the cooked vegetables; add also the oil, vinegar, salt, paprika and mustard; mix thoroughly and shape in a mound; spread the mayonnaise over the 130 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK mound; with capers, outline the surface in four sections of same size; fill one with the whites of two eggs chopped fine; fill another with the sifted yolks of two eggs; fill a third with chopped parsley, and a fourth with capers. Cut two of the eggs into lengthwise eighths, cut the peeled tomatoes into quarters or eighths, lengthwise, ac- cording to the size; set these around the base of the salad and finish the top with a sprig of parsley or lettuce heart. Potato Salad for Thirty 5 quarts potato cubes 2 pickles, mustard preferred 2 onions 1% tablespoonfuls salt 10 cent bottle stuffed olives 1 teaspoonful paprika 5 cents worth parsley Y4 teaspoonful black pepper 4 cup piccalilli 144 cups olive oil ¥% cup vinegar Cut the potatoes in cubes when cold. The parsley, loose in cup, measures one cup of leaves. Chop the parsley, onions, olives and pickles together in a wooden bowl; chop very fine. Add all the ingredients to the po- tatoes and mix thoroughly. Cabbage Salad, Lenten Style Shave crisp, white cabbage exceedingly fine, and a smaller measure of purple cabbage in the same manner. Mix each separately with French dressing. Dispose the white cabbage in a salad bowl, with a wreath of the purple cabbage on the top. Cooked or mayonnaise dressing may be used in place of the French dressing. Cabbage Salad, French Fashion Cut a small new cabbage in quarters and let stand in ice water to chill; swing in a cloth until dry, cut out and discard the hard center, then shred very fine; shred also a green pepper, freed from seeds and veins, exceedingly fine, and prepare a tablespoonful of fine-chopped parsley. SALADS 131 For a pint of material, mix half a teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth a teaspoonful, each, of mustard and pepper, four tablespoonfuls of oil and two tablespoonfuls of vinegar. When thoroughly blended dispose on a serving dish. Garnish with figures cut from slices of cooked beet and with lengthwise quarters of hard-cooked eggs. Pimiento-and-Cheese Salad Cut Neufchatel or Philadelphia cream cheese in small cubes. Rinse canned pimientos in cold water; drain and dry on a cloth. Cut the tops of the pimientos in vandykes (points) and fill with the cheese and trimmings of the peppers cut in small pieces. Set these on heart-leaves of lettuce. Finish with a teaspoonful of mayonnaise above the cheese or around the pimientos. Serve with bread or rolls as the chief dish at luncheon or supper. Fin de Siécle Salad (Thorndike Style) For one service take four-or five heart-leaves of lettuce, one (canned) artichoke bottom, two short stalks of as- paragus, a generous tablespoonful of flageolet (French beans, green in color and kidney-shaped), half a French endive cut in julienne shreds, about a tablespoonful of mayonnaise dressing, a little sifted hard-cooked yolk of egg, and one very small beet cut in halves. Set the artichoke bottom on the lettuce, the asparagus tips on two opposite sides of the artichoke, and the beans on the artichoke between the asparagus; above the whole set the dressing; dispose the strips of endive over the dress- ing; set the halves of beet at the base of two sides op- posite each other, and sift the yolk over the whole. Egg Salad, Aurore For one large or two small portions there are needed two half-inch, thick slices of a good-sized tomato, one 132 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK tender hard-cooked egg, four lettuce leaves and two tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise dressing. Set the tomato over a little of the dressing on the lettuce. Cut the egg in quarters, remove the yolk to a sieve, cut the pieces of white in halves crosswise and dispose on the tomato, the pointed ends to the center; dispose the rest of the mayon- naise at the points where the pieces of white meet. Sift the yolk over the dressing. Serve at once. Yvette Salad Take equal measures of celery cut in thin slices, or sprigs of cress; lean, cooked ham or corned beef or tongue in tiny cubes, and half as much of pimientos cut in half- inch squares. Dress with mayonnaise dressing. Salmon Salad with Macédoine of Vegetables ! 1 pint clarified chicken broth 1 pint cooked salmon 1 pint cooked vegetables in bits French dressing or 1 tablespoonful gelatine Mayonnaise dressing V4 cup cold water Lettuce Use a pint mold; the broth should be strong and well seasoned. For the vegetables use string beans, asparagus tips, peas, celery and carrot. Soften the gelatine in the cold water, dissolve in the hot broth; when cooled some- what add the vegetables, and when beginning to set mix thoroughly and turn. into the mold. Ice and chilled vegetables shorten the process materially. When ready to serve, dip the mold in warm water to the top of the dish and unmold on a chilled dish. Fill the center with flakes of cold, cooked salmon seasoned with French dress- ing. Serve French or mayonnaise dressing in a bowl. Shrimp Salad Fresh or canned shrimps may be used for this salad. If canned shrimps be used, cover them with cold water; SALADS 133 let stand two or three minutes, then drain and dry on a cloth. Reserve a whole shrimp for each service, and pick the rest into two or three pieces, each, discarding the intestinal vein. Mix the pieces of shrimp with mayon- naise or cooked dressing and dispose in nests of lettuce. Garnish with the whole shrimps and a few capers, and serve at once. Lobster Salad Lobster meat for salad or other preparation should be handled as little as possible. Remove the meat from the shells with care, leaving the pieces as they are, or cut them into smaller pieces: Dispose on a bed of carefully dried lettuce leaves and serve the dressing in a bowl. As lobster is rather rich, a simple French dressing is best. If mayonnaise be used, do not mix it through the lobster, set a little above each portion of lobster. Chicken Salad, Spring Style 1 pint cold cooked chicken in cubes 14 cup blanched almonds, shredded 1 cup white grapes skinned, cut 6 tablespoonfuls olive oil in halves and seeded 1 teaspoonful salt 14 cup cubes of pared apple ¥% teaspoonful paprika 1 tablespoonful lemon juice - 2 tablespoonfuls lemon juice 2 heads French endive, cut juli- 4 cup or more mayonnaise dress- enne style. ing Sprinkle the tablespoonful of lemon juice over the cubes of apple while preparing them, in order to keep the apple white. Mix the oil, salt, paprika and lemon juice and pour over the prepared ingredients; mix thoroughly and shape in a mound on a bed of lettuce leaves; spread the mayonnaise over the top of the mound. Sprinkle the dressing with fine-chopped pistachio nuts. Blanch the nuts before chopping. Napolitaine Salad Cut hard-cooked eggs in even slices. Dispose these alternately with thin slices of Bologna sausage, crown 134 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK shape, on a serving dish. Season a pint of cold, boiled potato cubes and half a pint of beet-root cubes, sepa- rately, with sauce tartare. Turn these into the center of the crown. Sprinkle the whole with fine-chopped parsley. For the sauce tartare, add to a cup of mayonnaise dress- ing one-fourth a cup of fine-chopped olives, capers, pickles and parsley. Apple-and-Pimiento Salad Pare six tart apples and cut them in julienne shreds or in small squares. Squeeze over them the juice of a lemon; add one or two pimientos, rinsed in cold water, drained and dried on a cloth and cut in small pieces. Mix six tablespoonfuls of oil with a scant half teaspoonful of salt and a dash of paprika and turn over the apples and peppers. Toss together lightly. Serve on crisp heart- leaves of lettuce with roast or broiled meats, or with cheese custard, croquettes, etc. Grape-fruit Orange-and-White-Grape. Salad Cut the grapefruit and orange in halves, crosswise, and lift out the half sections, freed from the membrane with a sharp knife, in whole pieces. Remove the skin from the grapes, cut them in halves and take out the seeds. Serve the prepared fruit—in such proportions as is desired — on lettuce hearts. Pour a tablespoonful of French dressing over each service. Use lemon juice, one tablespoonful to four tablespoonfuls of oil, in making the dressing. Date-and-Banana Salad Peel and scrape four bananas; cut them in thin slices and at once squeeze over them the juice of half a lemon. Pour boiling water over a pound of choice dates; stir and separate the dates in the water, then skim out upon an agate plate. Set the plate in the oven to heat the SALADS 135 dates thoroughly, then cut each in four lengthwise pieces and.discard the stones. Over the dates pour a table- spoonful of lemon juice. Mix four tablespoonfuls of olive oil, one tablespoonful of lemon juice and a generous quar- ter of a teaspoonful, each, of salt and paprika, and pour half over the bananas and the other half over the dates. Serve on heart-leaves of lettuce. The bananas and dates may be mixed together or kept separate. Prune-and-Pecan-Nut Salad 14 lb. cooked prunes, cutinlength- 14 teaspoonful salt wise strips 2 tablespoonfuls lemon juice YY Ib. pecan nut meats, cutin three 1 tablespoonful sherry wine, at dis- pieces each cretion 1 cup double cream Heart-leaves of lettuce Y teaspoonful paprika Do not overcook the prunes; they should cut in smooth, firm pieces; add salt and paprika to the prunes and nuts. Beat the cream, seasonings, wine if used, and lemon juice until firm throughout. Mix three-fourths of it with the nuts and prunes; set the mixture in rounding spoonfuls on heart-leaves of lettuce; pipe a star of dressing above the salad in each leaf. Serve with bread and butter at luncheon or supper. Endive-and-Prune Salad Wipe the blanched leaves of a head of endive and dis- pose lightly on a salad plate; above set about one-fourth a, pound of cooked prunes, cut in smooth quarters, from the stones. Mix together four tablespoonfuls of olive oil, half a teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of paprika, two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice and two tablespoonfuls of claret wine, and pour over the whole; mix and serve. Lemon or orange juice may replace the claret. For a large head of endiye more dressing may be required. Serve with roast meats on chilled plates. CHAPTER Ix YEAST MIXTURES — BREAD AND ROLLS Commercial yeast is a collection of yeast plants put into such a condition that their growth is arrested for the time being. Moist, warm flour presents food under the right con- ditions for the growth of yeast plants. As the yeast plants grow and multiply, chemical changes take place in the flour, and carbon dioxide and alcohol are evolved. The carbon dioxide lifts up the mass of moist, warm flour and makes it light. If this dough be handled and baked properly, sweet wholesome bread of fine, uniform texture results. The quantity of liquid taken determines the quantity of bread made, or, in making a loaf of bread, the size of the loaf depends on the quantity of liquid used. The texture of the bread depends largely on the propor- tion of flour to the liquid, or the quantity of flour used. The larger the quantity of yeast used, the shorter, comparatively, the time required for the process. Make a “sponge” or a thin batter of yeast, liquid and a little flour, for mixtures containing shortening, sugar, eggs, etc. For ordinary bread made with compressed yeast, mix in all the flour at the beginning. When dry yeast is used, start the bread with a sponge. Bread is best when the rising process is not hurried; and rolls keep the shapes given them much better if the final rising be not pushed. YEAST MIXTURE — BREAD AND ROLLS 137 In baking, biscuit and rolls call for a quicker heat than bread in loaves. Rolls and biscuit present a better appearance if glazed just before the baking is completed; white of egg gives a crisp glaze, cornstarch paste a soft exterior. Recipe for Two Loaves of White Bread ¥ cake compressed yeast 2 tablespoonfuls shortening (at night) 2 tablespoonfuls sugar Y% cup water 1 teaspoonful salt 2 cups scalded milk or half About 7 cups flour milk and half water To the milk, or milk and water, add the shortening, sugar and salt; when lukewarm, add the yeast mixed with the half cup of liquid and the flour. Use an earthen bowl and mix with a knife. Knead until elastic. Let rise in a temperature of about 75° F. The shelf over the stove is not a suitable place. When doubled in bulk, shape into loaves. When again light, bake about one hour. To mix in the morning, use one whole yeast cake. Two Loaves Entire Wheat Bread ¥ to 1 whole yeast cake 1 teaspoonful salt ¥ cup lukewarm water 4 tablespoonfuls molasses 2 cups scalded milk or half 1 cup white flour milk and half water 6 cups (about) whole wheat flour 2 tablespoonfuls shortening Mix and finish as white bread. Sugar may be sub- stituted for the molasses. When bread less sweet is preferred, use half the measure of sugar or molasses. For a change, use white flour and whole wheat flour in equal proportions. Graham Bread (Mixed in morning) 1 cake compressed yeast 1 teaspoonful salt 1% cup lukewarm water ¥ cup molasses 114 cups scalded and cooled milk 234 cups sifted graham flour 2 tablespoonfuls butter 1% cups white flour 188 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK To the milk add the butter, salt and molasses; when lukewarm, add the yeast mixed with the water and stir in the flour. More flour may be needed. The dough should be quite firm, though not stiff enough to knead. Cover and set aside to become doubled in bulk; cut down and turn into a pan. The pan must be larger than the ordinary brick-loaf pan. When again nearly doubled in bulk bake about one hour. Rye Meal Bread 1 yeast cake 14 cup molasses ¥% cup lukewarm water 14% cups sifted rye meal 144 cups scalded milk 1 cup whole wheat flour 2 tablespoonfuls shortening 114 cups white bread flour 1 teaspoonful salt Soften the yeast cake in the water. To the milk add the shortening, salt and molasses, and, when lukewarm, stir in the softened yeast, the meal and flour. The mixture should be quite stiff, but not stiff enough to knead. Cover and let stand until light or doubled in bulk; cut down and turn into the pan. Cover and, when again nearly doubled in bulk, bake one hour. This mixture when ready to bake will nearly fill a sandwich-loaf bread pan. Such a pan is ten inches long, four inches wide and three inches deep with straight sides. The pan is usually supplied with a cover, but this should be discarded. Sweet Rye Bread, with Raisins 4 to 1 whole yeast cake 1 cup shortening 14 cup lukewarm water 1 teaspoonful salt 2 cups scalded milk 1 cup seeded raisins Y cup sugar or molasses 3 cups rye flour 3 cups wheat flour (about) Soften the yeast in the water. To the milk add the sugar or molasses, shortening, salt and raisins; when lukewarm, add the yeast and the flour and mix to a dough. YEAST MIXTURE — BREAD AND ROLLS 139 Knead until smooth and elastic. Use white flour for kneading. Cover, and when light shape for two brick- loaf pans. When again light bake about one hour. Raisin Bread 1 cake compressed yeast 14 cup melted shortening 4 cup scalded and cooled 1% teaspoonful salt milk 1 egg 1 cup scalded and cooled milk 1% cup raisins 134 cups bread flour About two cups flour 14 cup sugar One-half a teaspoonful or more of cinnamon may be added if desired. Make a sponge of the yeast, milk and the one cup and three-quarters of flour. When light and puffy add the other ingredients and mix to a soft dough; knead until smooth and elastic; cover and let stand until doubled in bulk. Do not let stand on the shelf of the range: it is too hot. When light, shape into a loaf, and when again light bake about one hour. One Loaf Date Bread 1 cup scalded milk YZ teaspoonful salt 2 tablespoonfuls shortening 4 cup molasses or sugar 14 to 1 whole cake compressed 1 cup cleaned dates yeast 3 cups whole wheat flour 14 cup water or scalded milk White flour for dough (lukewarm) Melt the shortening in the hot milk and add the salt, molasses and dates chopped or cut in large pieces. To mix at night use the small quantity of yeast. Use the whole cake when mixing in the morning. Crumble the yeast cake and mix in the lukewarm liquid, then add to the ingredients in the bowl; add the whole wheat flour and one cup of white flour and mix to a dough, adding meanwhile as much more white flour as is required. 140 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Knead the dough until smooth and elastic. When light shape into a loaf, and when again light bake one hour. Bran Bread 1 cup milk 1% teaspoonful salt 14 cup water 3 tablespoonfuls molasses 1 cake compressed yeast 1 cup entire wheat flour 2 tablespoonfuls butter Bran as needed for a soft dough Scald the milk; add the butter, salt and molasses. When lukewarm add the yeast, mixed with the water, the flour and bran as needed to make a soft dough. Do not knead. Let stand, covered, until light; cut down and turn into an ordinary bread pan. When nearly doubled in bulk bake one hour. Salt-Rising Bread Into a pint of lukewarm water stir flour to make a drop batter. Let stand in a vessel of lukewarm water, in a warm place, keeping the temperature as nearly 70° F. as possible. When light and foamy, in eight or ten hours, add a quart of lukewarm water, two teaspoonfuls of salt, and flour to make a batter rather stiffer than before. Keep at the temperature of about 70° F., and when again light turn into pans, and when nearly doubled in bulk, bake in an oven of ordinary temperature for bread. One-fourth a cup of corn meal may be stirred into the water with the flour when making the “drop batter.” One-fourth a cup of sugar (less if desired) may be added with the salt when mixing the dough. French Bread Soften a cake of compressed yeast in one-fourth a cup of boiled water, cooled to a lukewarm temperature, and stir in about three-fourths a cup of flour, enough to make a dough that may be kneaded. Knead until the little ball YEAST MIXTURE — BREAD AND ROLLS 141 of dough is smooth and elastic. Then make a cut across the top in two directions. Have ready a pint of boiled water, cooled to a lukewarm temperature, and into this put the ball of dough. It will sink to the bottom of the dish. In about fifteen minutes it will float upon the water, a light, puffy “sponge.” Into this water and sponge stir a teaspoonful of salt and between five and six cups of flour, enough to make a dough stiff enough to knead. Knead or pound the dough until it is smooth and elastic, and does not stick to the hands or board. It will take fifteen or twenty minutes. Cover the dough, and set it aside in a temperature of about 70° F. until it has doubled in bulk. This may be baked in any kind of pan; but, to secure the crusty French loaf, a Russia iron pan, giving long, narrow loaves, is desirable. For one of these pans divide the dough into two equal pieces. Roll, and stretch these under the hands on the board until they are as long as the pan. Have a round stick (like a curtain roller) lightly floured. Press this down through the center, lengthwise of the loaf, and roll it back and forth, to make a furrow. French bread is concave rather than convex on the top, but this shaping may be omitted. Cover, and let stand to become light. Cut three or four slantwise cuts in the top of the bread, five or six inches apart. Bake about forty minutes. When nearly baked, brush over the surface with the white of an egg, beaten and strained, and return to the oven to dry the glaze. Quick Yeast Rolls To one cup of scalded milk add one-fourth a cup of butter, half a teaspoonful of salt and a level tablespoonful of sugar; stir till the butter is melted and the liquid is lukewarm, then stir in a cake of compressed yeast mixed with one-fourth a cup of lukewarm water, and as much bread flour as can be conveniently mixed in with a spoon. 142 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK The dough should not be mixed stiff enough to knead. Mix, cut and turn the dough over and over with a spoon or knife; cover and set aside to become light. When the dough has doubled in bulk, with buttered fingers pull off bits of the dough and work into smooth balls and set them close together in a buttered pan: When very light bake about twenty-five minutes. ‘ Potato Rolls 1 cake compressed yeast ¥ cup sugar Yj cup lukewarm water 4 cup shortening 1 cup scalded milk % teaspoonful salt Nearly 2 cups flour 2 egg-yolks 1 cup hot mashed potato About 2 cups flour Mix the yeast through the water smoothly. Cool the milk, add the yeast and flour for a sponge. Beat very thoroughly, cover and set aside to become light. Add the other ingredients. Mix all together thoroughly with a knife. The dough should be about as stiff as can be stir- red, yet not stiff enough to knead. Cut through and through the dough repeatedly; cover and set aside to become doubled in bulk. Turn upon a well-floured board, roll into a sheet one-fourth an inch thick and cut into rounds, brush the rounds with melted butter, double over like a Parker House roll, brush over the tops with butter and let rise. Bake about twenty minutes. Turkish Rolls Work one-fourth a cup of almond paste into one cup of boiled water cooled to a lukewarm temperature; add one tablespoonful of butter, one tablespoonful of sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt, one cake of compressed yeast mixed in one-fourth a cup of lukewarm water, and between three and four cups of sifted flour. Mix all together thoroughly and knead to a smooth dough. The dough YEAST MIXTURE — BREAD AND ROLLS 143 should be soft as can be handled. Let stand to double, about, in bulk; shape into oval rolls; when again light, brush over with milk and bake in a hot oven. Hot Cross Buns 1 cake compressed yeast 1 teaspoonful salt 4 cup lukewarm water 3 egg-yolks 2 cups scalded milk ¥% cup melted butter 3 cups flour (about) Flour for soft dough Y cup sugar Ornamental icing Make a sponge of the first four ingredients; when light add the others save the frosting. The dough should be stiff enough to knead. When again light, turn upside down on a board very lightly dredged with flour, roll into a sheet and cut into rounds. Set the rounds close to- gether or some distance apart (according as to whether a soft or crusty exterior be desired). Bake about half an hour. When baked, brush over the surface with white of egg, or a teaspoonful of cornstarch smoothed in cold water and cooked with boiling water to a paste, and return to the oven to dry the glaze. Remove to a wire cooler, and with ornamental frosting pipe a cross upon the top of each bun. Brookline Biscuit Have a pint of sifted flour in a bowl; into this rub two level tablespoonfuls of butter. Scald one cup of milk, and when lukewarm add one-fourth a cake of compressed yeast dissolved in one-fourth a cup of luke- warm water. Stir this into the flour, and set to rise over night. In the morning work in sufficient flour to make a dough, and knead it until it is elastic and does not stick to the fingers. Let rise until very light; then take from the bowl to the bread board, without working, and roll out into a rectangular sheet longer than it is wide and half an inch thick. Spread softened butter upon this 144 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK and fold the dough evenly, to have three layers. With a sharp knife, dipped in flour, cut the dough into strips three-fourths an inch wide. Take hold of a strip at the ends, pull gently, to lengthen it, then twist the ends in opposite directions and form the shape of the figure eight, joining the two ends underneath. Place the bis- cuits in buttered pans so that they will not touch, and when light bake in a rather hot oven to a delicate brown. The recipe makes two dozen biscuits. Soufflé Luncheon Rolls 1 cup scalded milk 1 egg beaten light 2 tablespoonfuls butter Y% teaspoonful salt ¥ cake compressed yeast 1 teaspoonful sugar 44 cup lukewarm liquid 1% cups flour Melt the butter in the milk; add the sugar and salt and when lukewarm the yeast, with the lukewarm liquid, the egg and flour. Beat about ten minutes. The mix- ture should be rather thicker than a drop batter, but not as stiff as a dough. Cover and set aside to become light. Cut down and use in filling muffin pans to rather more than half their height; when the batter fills the pans, bake in a hot oven about twenty minutes. Brush over the top of the rolls with a teaspoonful of cornstarch, smoothed in cold water and heated to boiling in a half cup of boiling water; return to the oven to dry off. If there be time, the rolls will be improved if the batter be ,cut down and allowed to rise once or twice before it is put into the pans. Philadelphia Butter Buns 1 cake compressed yeast 14 cup butter, melted Y4 cup water 2 egg-yolks. 1 cup scalded milk ¥ teaspoonful salt 14% cups bread flour Grated rind 1 lemon V4 cup sugar Flour for dough KUGELHOPF KUCHEN SLICED AND TOASTED. Page 146 KUGELHOPF KUCHEN READY TO SHAPE. Page 146 POP OVERS. Page 148 FRUIT-AND-NUT CHRISTMAS CAKES. Page 167 YEAST MIXTURE — BREAD AND ROLLS 145 Make a sponge of the first four ingredients; when light add the others; about two cups of flour will be required. Knead until smooth and elastic. Cover close and set aside to become doubled in bulk. Turn upside down on a board, roll into a rectangular sheet, spread with soft- ened butter, dredge with sugar and cinnamon, sprinkle with currants and roll as a jelly roll. Cut into pieces about an inch and a quarter long. The dough will make sixteen buns. Butter well the bottom of a pan of the proper size and dredge generously with brown sugar; set the buns on the sugar and let become light. Bake in a moderate oven. Turn upside down. The sugar and butter should glaze the bottom of the buns. Serve with coffee or cocoa. These are good reheated. Three or four tablespoonfuls of butter and a generous half cup of sugar are none too much on the pan. ; Bismarck Rings 1 cake compressed yeast 3 egg-yolks or Y cup water or milk (scalded) 1 egg and 1 yolk 1 cup scalded milk Y{ cup sugar 14% cups flour (about) 4% teaspoonful salt 4 cup melted shortening Flour for dough Make a sponge of the first four ingredients; when light, add the other ingredients and mix to a soft dough. Knead until smooth and elastic. Cover and set aside (out of drafts) to become double in bulk. When light, divide into about eighteen pieces of the same size; shape these into balls; dispose on the kneading board, cover with one or more earthen mixing bowls and let stand to be- come very light. Roll each ball into a rectangular sheet about one-fourth an inch thick; as soon as one is rolled spread it with almond cream, then roll like a jelly roll. Join the ends securely, to form a ring on the pan. Let stand again to become very light. Brush over with the yolk of an egg, beaten and mixed with one or two table- 146 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK spoonfuls of milk. Slash each roll in several places. Bake about twenty-five minutes. Serve hot with coffee or cocoa. These are good reheated in a paper bag such as is used for cooking. Almond Cream Filling Beat one-fourth a cup of butter to a cream; gradually beat in two ounces (one-fourth cup) of almond paste, then one-fourth a cup of sugar and one egg or two yolks and use to spread the Bismarck Rings. Kugelhopf Kuchen (For afternoon tea) 1 Ib. (4 cups) flour 1 cake compressed yeast 10 ounces (114 cups) butter 3 tablespoonfuls lukewarm water 2 tablespoonfuls sugar 7 eggs V4 teaspoonful salt 1 cup large raisins (seeded) Soften the yeast in the water, mix thoroughly, and stir in enough of the flour to make a soft dough. Knead the little ball of dough; with a knife slash across it in opposite directions and drop it into a small saucepan of lukewarm water. Put the rest of the flour, the salt, sugar and butter softened and broken into bits, into a mixing bowl; add four of the eggs and with the hand work the whole to a smooth consistency; then add the rest of the eggs, one at a time, and continue beating each time until the paste is smooth. When the little ball of sponge has become very light, at least twice its original size, remove it with a skimmer to the egg mixture, add the raisins, and work the whole together. Let stand to become double in bulk. Cut down and set aside in an ice chest over night. Shape on a board either into a loaf or buns. When again light and puffy bake in a quick oven. Cut the cake into thick slices. Toast these over a quick fire, being careful (by not YEAST MIXTURE — BREAD AND ROLLS 147 moving the cake while toasting) to retain the lines of the toaster. Spread with butter, sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon mixed, and serve at once on a hot napkin. Wellesley Toast Cut fresh-baked bread into even slices; toast, then spread with butter and dredge quite thick with sugar and cinnamon, mixed together. Serve at once with tea or with cocoa. CHAPTER X QUICK HOT BREADS Use no sour milk, molasses or lemon juice in mixtures lightened with baking powder or bicarbonate of soda and cream of tartar, unless such acid be first neutralized with soda. Quick hot breads in which butter and sugar are used may be mixed as cakes. If the quantity of butter be small, — less than one half the measure of sugar, — add the sugar with the dry in- gredients; melt the butter and add it to the mixture at the last. An iron pan, made hot beforehand, is the best article in which to bake popovers or muffins. Whole Wheat Popovers 1 cup whole wheat flour Y teaspoonful salt 1 cup white flour 2 cups milk 2 eggs Beat the eggs light without separating, add the milk; beat in the flour and salt gradually, using the egg beater. Pour into hot, well buttered cups. Bake about forty- five minutes. Baking Powder Biscuits 2 cups pastry flour : 14 teaspoonful salt 4 level teaspoonfuls baking 2 to 4 tablespoonfuls shortening powder 4 to 24 cup milk or water Pass the dry ingredients together through a sieve wo or three times; work in the shortening with two QUICK HOT BREADS 149 knives; add the liquid, a little at a time, mixing it in mean- while with a knife. The dough should be as soft as can be handled. Turn the dough on to a floured board, turn it with the knife to coat with flour, then knead slightly; pat with the rolling pin, and roll into a sheet about three-fourths of an inch thick; cut into rounds; bake from fifteen to twenty minutes. Brush the top of the biscuit with melted butter before baking to insure a rich colored crust. Sour Cream Biscuit To each cup of thick, sour cream, milk or buttermilk beat in half a scant level teaspoonful of soda, then use as sweet milk, cutting down the quantity of baking powder a little. With cream use but little shortening. One to four tablespoonfuls, according to the richness of the prod- uct, will be needed with sour milk or buttermilk. Maple-Sugar-and-Nut Biscuit 3 cups pastry flour ¥% to 1% cup shortening 3 slightly rounding teaspoon- Milk as needed fuls baking powder 24 cup nut meats, broken in pieces 34 teaspoonful salt 24 cup shaved maple sugar Sift together the flour, baking powder and salt. With two knives cut in the shortening; add milk, a little at a time, and mix to a dough; turn on to a floured board; toss the dough in the flour; knead slightly and roll into a rectangular sheet much longer than wide. The sheet of dough should be less than half an inch thick. Spread the sheet of dough with melted butter, sprinkle on the nuts and the sugar; roll like a jelly roll; make the roll long rather than thick; cut in pieces an inch and a, half long. Set these on end, close together, in a buttered pan. Bake about twenty minutes. Serve hot with butter for tea or luncheon. 150 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Blueberry Muffins 2 cups white flour 1 egg beaten light 2 rounding teaspoonfuls bak- 3 tablespoonfuls melted butter ing powder About 34 cup milk 14 teaspoonful salt 1 cup blueberries Y4 cup sugar Sift together the dry ingredients (the sugar may be omitted). Add the egg with the milk (a little more milk may be needed), mix to a dough, stir in the berries. Bake in a hot, buttered muffin pan about twenty-five minutes. Cornmeal Muffins 3 tablespoonfuls butter 144 cups flour 1 cup sugar 34 cup cornmeal 1 egg and 1 yolk 3 teaspoonfuls baking powder 34 cup milk Y{ teaspoonful salt Mix in the same manner as a cake. Bake in a hot well- buttered muffin pan (iron) about twenty-five minutes. Southern Corn Bread 1 cup white cornmeal 1 egg, beaten light Y% teaspoonful salt 1 quart sweet milk 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder = 2 tablespoonfuls butter Sift together the dry ingredients, stir in the egg and milk. Turn into a well buttered baking dish suitable for the table; add the butter cut in bits. Bake about half an hour. Stir often until the bread begins to thicken. Serve with a spoon and from the dish. Graham Muffins 1 cup graham flour 4 level teaspoonfuls baking powder 1 cup white flour 1 egg YY cup sugar 1 cup milk (about) 4 teaspoonful salt 3 to 4 tablespoonfuls melted butter Sift together the dry ingredients; beat the egg, add the milk and the butter and stir into the dry ingredients. QUICK HOT BREADS 151 Bake in a hot, well buttered muffin pan about twenty- five minutes. Bran Muffins 2 cups bran 3 tablespoonfuls butter 1 cup entire wheat flour 4 cup molasses 3 teaspoonfuls baking powder 14% cups thick sour milk 4 teaspoonful salt 14 level teaspoonful soda 1 egg Sift together the flour, baking powder and salt and add the bran. Stir the soda into the sour milk and molasses, add the egg, beaten light, then stir into the dry ingredients; add the butter, melted. Bake in a hot, well buttered muffin pan about twenty-five minutes. German Apple Cake, Revised 2 cups flour 3 apples 14 teaspoonful salt 3 tablespoonfuls currants 4 level teaspoonfuls baking 2 tablespoonfuls butte powder 3 tablespoonfuls sugar at 4 cup butter 1 egg, well beaten euster 1 egg ¥ cup milk 1 cup milk Sift together the dry ingredients, and work in the butter. Beat the egg, add the milk and stir into the dry ingre- dients. Turn the mixture into a buttered pan. Pare, quarter and core the apples; cut the prepared quarters in slices and press them, core side downwards, into the top of the dough, making two rows lengthwise of the cake; sprinkle with the currants and dredge with granulated sugar. Let bake about eighteen minutes, or until nearly done; without moving the cake in the oven, pour over a custard mixture and continue the baking until done. Serve hot at breakfast, luncheon or supper, or as a hearty dessert at dinner. To make the custard, cream the butter, beat in the sugar, then the egg and milk. 152 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Griddle Cakes with Sour Milk 144 cups flour 14 teaspoonful soda Y4 teaspoonful salt 1 egg 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder 2 tablespoonfuls melted butter 1 cup thick sour milk Sift together the flour, salt and baking powder; stir the soda into the milk; add the egg, beaten very light, and the melted butter, and stir into the dry ingredients. If the sour milk be rich and creamy, the butter may be omitted. Set by spoonfuls on a hot, well oiled griddle; when bubbles appear throughout and the cake is well browned on the bottom, turn to brown the other side. Do not turn the cakes but once. Sour Cream Griddle Cakes 1 cup sour cream or buttermilk 1 level teaspoonful baking powder 1% teaspoonful (scant) soda 14 teaspoonful salt 2 egg-yolks 2 egg-whites, beaten dry 1 cup flour Sour Cream Waffles Same as above, with the addition of two or three table- spoonfuls of melted butter. Bread Crumb Griddlecakes Soak two cups of bread crumbs in cold water, turn into a cloth and wring out the water; add two cups of thick, sour milk and one cup of flour. Let stand over night; then add one egg, beaten very light, half a teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of soda dissolved in one or two table- spoonfuls of cold water, and two tablespoonfuls of flour sifted with two teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Mix thoroughly. A little more flour may be needed. In cool weather the crumbs may stand over night in the sour milk. Make smooth with a spoon, then add the other ingredients. QUICK HOT BREADS 153 Rice Cakes Put about three pints of cold water over three-fourths a cup of rice, stir with a silver fork and let heat to the boiling point over a quick fire; let boil three or four minutes, pour into a sieve and let cold water run through the rice to blanch it. Put the blanched rice into a double boiler with about three cups of milk. Let cook,:undis- turbed, until the rice is tender and the milk is absorbed. Add a seant teaspoonful of salt when about half cooked. Turn the rice on a shallow dish. When cooled enough to handle shape into round, flat cakes three-fourths an inch thick, pat them in flour on each side, then sauté in hot salt pork fat until nicely browned, first on one side and then on the other. Serve at breakfast or supper with Honey Syrup Boil two cups of granulated sugar and one cup of boiling water, washing down and covering the saucepan as in making fondant, about six minutes. Add four tablespoonfuls of strained honey. Serve cold. CHAPTER XI CAKE AND FROSTING Let all ingredients be choice. Pastry flour is preferable to bread flour. Measure after sifting once; add the leavening ingredients and sift again. Fine granulated sugar, unless some other variety is specified, is indicated in all the recipes. Have all ingredients at hand, measured, and pans ready, before beginning to mix the cake. Sponge cakes, proper, are made without leavening ingredients or butter; lightness is secured by the intro- duction of air into eggs by beating, and the expansion of this air in the oven. In order to retain the air great care must be used in the mixing. Never beat a sponge cake mixture after the sugar is beaten into the yolks; fold in the egg-whites, beaten dry, and the flour. To fold in the flour and whites, cut down through the ingredients with a slitted spoon and turn them over and over gently; repeat until all are evenly blended. To mix a butter cake beat the butter to a cream (until smooth throughout and whitish on the edges), beat in the sugar gradually, the yolks beaten light if used, then, alternately, the milk and the flour with the leavening ingredients, and, lastly, the whites beaten dry. If the quantity of sugar be more than twice the quantity of butter, beat this excess of sugar into the beaten yolks, then beat the two into the butter and sugar. CAKE AND FROSTING 155 Beat a butter-cake mixture thoroughly after the addi- tion of the whites of egg, beaten dry; this, other conditions being right, will give a fine-grained cake. To bake cake, divide the time indicated for baking into quarters. The mixture should simply rise in the first quarter; brown in spots in the second quarter; brown all over in the third quarter; settle a little and shrink from the sides of the pan in the fourth or last quarter. Confectioner’s sugar, sifted and mixed into sugar syrup, cream, milk, fruit juice or water (hot or cold), makes a good, simple frosting, but boiled frosting tastes the best. Boiled frosting may be lightened by the use of egg- whites, beaten dry. The usual proportions are three- fourths a cup of sugar (with water to dissolve) to each white of egg, beaten dry. The syrup for boiled frosting is usually cooked to the soft-ball degree. This degree is indicated at from about 238° to 242° F., and the final consistency of the frosting depends largely upon the actual degree reached in the boiling; thus for uniformity in the finished product a sugar thermometer is most valuable. If, when completed, a boiled frosting is too thin and runs from a cake, return the frosting to the fire in a saucepan on an asbestos mat or in a double boiler, and beat constantly and thoroughly while the mixture thickens. If a frosting has been cooked too long, add a little lemon juice. Sponge Cake 5 egg-yolks 2 tablespoonfuls lemon juice 1 cup sugar 1 cup flour Grated rind 1 lemon 5 egg-whites Beat the yolks until light colored and thick; gradually beat in the sugar; add the lemon rind and juice; then cut 156 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK and fold in the whites of eggs, beaten dry, and the flour. Bake in a tube pan about fifty minutes. Half a cup of potato flour may be used in place of the whole cup of wheat flour. Potato flour gives a tender sponge cake. Angel Cake, Fryeburg Recipe Beat the whites of eight eggs until foamy; add half a teaspoonful of cream of tartar and beat until dry, then gradually beat in one cup and a half of sugar and one tea- spoonful of vanilla, then fold in one cup of pastry flour measured after sifting. Bake in a tube pan about forty- five minutes. Almond Biscuit Beat the yolks of three eggs very light; gradually beat in half a cup of granulated sugar, the grated rind of half a lemon, half a cup of sifted pastry flour, and, lastly, the whites of three eggs, beaten dry, with one-eighth a tea- spoonful of cream of tartar. Turn into small buttered tins, preferably such as are longer than the width; set half a blanched almond in the top of the mixture at each end, dredge with granulated sugar, and bake in an oven hotter than for a loaf of sponge cake. Marguerites Bake sponge cake mixture in small round tins, or bake in a thin sheet and stamp into rounds with a small tin cutter. Blanch some almonds, split them, cut the halves in strips of uniform thickness and let brown delicately in the oven. Spread the rounds of cake with confec- tioner’s frosting, and dispose the shreds of almond on the frosting to simulate the petals of a daisy. Finish each center with a yellow candy or a drop of frosting. For the frosting stir a tablespoonful or more of boiling water into sifted confectioner’s sugar to make a paste CAKE AND FROSTING 157 that will remain in place. Add a few drops of vanilla or other flavor. Lady Fingers Beat the whites of three eggs dry and the yolks thick; into the yolks beat half a cup of sugar and a grating of lemon rind; fold in half of the whites, half a cup and one tablespoonful, extra, of flour, then the rest of the whites. Line a pan with paper; on the paper shape the mixture in portions an inch wide and about five inches long; dredge with sugar. Bake about ten minutes. Maple Syrup Cake 24 cup butter 3 cups flour ; 114 cups sugar 4 level teaspoonfuls baking 114 tablespoonfuls maple syrup powder 3 eggs, beaten without separating 24 cup water Mix in the usual manner and in the order given. Bake in a sheet in a large pan. Cover with Maple Syrup Frosting 134 cups maple syrup 34 cup nut meats, in pieces 1 or 2 egg-whites Cook the syrup to 240° F. on the sugar thermometer. Pour in a fine stream on to the white of egg, beaten dry, beating constantly meanwhile. Return the frosting in a saucepan to the fire on an asbestos mat or over hot water; beat slowly and constantly until the frosting thickens a little; add the nut meats; spread upon the cake and draw the spoon across it, back and forth, from end to end with a waving motion. Cream Pie Beat one-third a cup of butter to a cream; gradually beat in one cup of sugar; add two eggs, beaten light, half a cup of milk and one cup and a half of sifted pastry flour, 158 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK sifted again with half a level teaspoonful of soda and one slightly rounding teaspoonful of cream of tartar. Bake in two layer-cake pans; put the layers together with an English cream filling. Sprinkle the top layer with sifted confectioner’s sugar or spread with confectioner’s frosting. English Cream Filling Scald one cup of milk over hot water; stir one-third a cup of flour with one-third a cup of cold milk to a smooth paste, then cook in the hot milk, stirring until the mixture thickens; cover and let cook fifteen minutes. Beat one egg; add one-half cup (scant) of sugar and beat again; add also one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt and stir into the hot mixture. Continue to stir until the egg is set. When cool add half a teaspoonful of vanilla. Confectioner’s Chocolate Frosting Melt one ounce of chocolate; add two tablespoonfuls of sugar and three tablespoonfuls of boiling water and cook till smooth. Add a little more water if necessary; then stir in sifted confectioner’s sugar as needed. For a change, stir sifted confectioner’s sugar into a tablespoon- ful of lemon juice mixed with several tablespoonfuls of strawberry or raspberry juice. Omit chocolate with fruit juice. Mrs. Cornelius’ Park Street Cake 4 cup butter 1 cup milk 1 cup sugar 3 cups flour 1 cup currants 1 teaspoonful soda 4 egg-yolks 2 teaspoonfuls cream of tartar 1 cup sugar (slightly rounding) 1 teaspoonful lemon extract Y% teaspoonful mace 4 egg-whites Beat the butter to a cream; gradually beat in the first cup of sugar, then the currants. Beat the yolks very CAKE AND FROSTING 159 light, beat in the second cup of sugar and beat the two mixtures together. Sift together the flour, soda, cream of tartar and mace; add these to the first mixture alternately with the milk; then beat in the whites of eggs beaten dry. Bake in two brick-loaf bread pans. Sift granulated sugar over the top of the dough in the pans. Bake from one hour to one hour and a half. Spanish Cake 1 cup butter 6 level teaspoonfuls baking powder 2 cups sugar 2 teaspoonfuls cinnamon 4 yolks of eggs 1 teaspoonful, each, cloves and 1 cup milk mace 3)% cups sifted flour 4 whites of eggs Mix in the usual manner. Bake in layers and put to- gether with boiled icing; or, bake in a sheet, in a small dripping pan, after sprinkling the top with currants or chopped nuts and granulated sugar. The fruit or nuts sink into the cake and the sugar gives a crusty exterior, which answers for an icing. - Bride’s Cake 14 cup butter 21% cups flour ‘ 1% chee sugar 1 level teaspoonful baking powder ¥ cup milk 4 egg-whites Grated rind of 1 lemon Bake in a tube pan, cover with confectioner’s frosting, decorate with ornamental frosting and a confectioner’s or bisque cupid. Ornamental Frosting 1 cup sugar 1 egg-white is ¥ cup boiling water 1 teaspoonful lemon juice Melt the sugar in the water; wash down the sides of the saucepan; cover and let boil three minutes; uncover and let boil, undisturbed, to 238° F. Pour in a very fine 160 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK stream through a small sieve on to the white of egg, half beaten, beating constantly meanwhile. Continue the beating until the frosting begins to cool, then beat in the lemon juice. This frosting may be used for fine or coarse piping. Keep the frosting in the bowl covered with a damp cloth while using the tubes. White Cake, Chocolate Frosting 14 cup butter 3 egg-whites 1 cup sugar 2 cups flour : ¥ cup milk 3 teaspoonfuls baking powder Frosting 2 ounces chocolate 2 egg-whites . 14 cups sugar Y% teaspoonful vanilla Y cup milk Bake the cake in two pans. Put the layers together and cover the whole cake with the frosting. Halves of English walnut meats may be pressed into the frosting at regular intervals if desired. To make the frosting, melt the chocolate over hot water, add three tablespoonfuls of the sugar and three or four tablespoonfuls of the milk and stir and cook until smooth and boiling; then add the rest of the sugar and milk and cook to 240° F. Finish as all boiled frostings. As the starch in the chocolate “breaks the grain” of the sugar a chocolate frosting may be stirred enough to keep it from burning. Nut Cake, Chocolate Frosting 14 cup butter 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder 144 cups sugar 1 cup nut meats, chopped 34 cup milk 4 egg-whites 2 cups flour Mix in the usual manner. Bake in a sheet between thirty and forty minutes. When cold, cover with choco- late frosting and decorate with halves of nut meats. CAKE AND FROSTING 161 Orange Cake Beat one-fourth a cup of butter to a cream; gradually beat in half a cup of sugar; beat two eggs, without sep- arating the whites and yolks; beat in half a cup of sugar, and then beat the whole into the butter mixture; add the grated rind and juice of half an orange, half a cup of milk and one cup and three-fourths of sifted flour, sifted again with three level teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Bake in two layers; put the layers together with orange filling and sift confectioner’s sugar over the top. Orange Filling Beat one egg, add one cup of sugar, two tablespoonfuls of butter and the grated rind and juice of one orange; stir and cook over boiling water until the mixture is thick and smooth. Cocoanut Cake with Lilac Decoration Cream half a cup of butter; gradually beat in one cup of granulated sugar, then beat in, one after another without previously beating, three whole eggs. Add, alternately, half a cup of milk and one cup and three-fourths of sifted flour, sifted again with two slightly rounding teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Lastly, beat in one cup of grated cocoanut. Bake in a tube pan about forty-five minutes. Cover with confectioner’s frosting and decorate with candied lilacs, put on to represent lilac blossoms with strips of angelica for stems. Graham Cracker Cake Y cup butter 1 pound graham crackers 1 cup sugar 2 slightly rounding teaspoonful: 3 egg-yolks baking powder 114 cups sweet milk 3 egg-whites, beaten dry 162 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Mix the cake in the usual manner. The crackers should be bought in bulk to get full weight. Roll and pass through a fine sieve. Repeat the rolling if necessary. Sift the baking powder into the crumbs and mix thor- oughly. Bake in three layer-cake pans. Put the layers together with Mocha frosting. Spread Mocha frosting lightly over the top and sides; then use a pastry bag and small five-pointed tube in piping the rest of the frosting over the cake. Mocha Frosting Beat half a pound of butter to a cream; gradually beat in two cups and a half of sifted confectioner’s sugar and ascant quarter acup of very strong black coffee. German Brod Torte Pass through a sieve, ricer or vegetable press enough cold, boiled potatoes to fill a cup twice. Chop, fine, enough blanched almonds to fill a cup. Sift together, three times, two cups of flour, two level teaspoonfuls of baking powder, a scant half teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of cin- namon and half a teaspoonful of cloves. Cream one cup of butter; gradually beat in two cups of sugar and one cup of grated chocolate (preferably sweet), then the beaten yolks of four eggs, three-furths a cup of milk, the potato, the flour mixture, the almonds, and, lastly, the whites of four eggs beaten dry. Bake in a large tube pan in a moderate oven about forty-five minutes. When cold, spread with Chocolate Fudge Frosting Melt two ounces of chocolate over hot water; add two cups of sugar and one cup of milk, and stir while gradually heating. Beat vigorously when the boiling point is reached, CAKE AND FROSTING 163 then let cook to the soft-ball stage. Remove from the fire, add a teaspoonful of butter, and let stand until cold, then beat until creamy and spread on the cake. When of the consistency of thick molasses the icing is ready to use. Properly made, this frosting remains soft and creamy. The cake is always light, moist and rich. Date Loaf Cake 1 Ib. stoned dates 2 rounding teaspoonfuls baking 1 Ib. nut meats powder 1 cup pastry flour 1 cup granulated sugar Y% teaspoonful salt 4 eggs 1 teaspoonful vanilla The weight of the dates after stoning is required. English walnut meats are particularly good for this cake, but any variety of nut meats may be used. Leave the dates and nut meats whole; sift over them the flour, salt and baking powder sifted together two or three times. Mix thoroughly; add the sugar and mix again. Beat the whites of the eggs dry and the yolks till thick. Mix the yolks evenly through the other ingredients, then mix in the whites and the extract. Bake one hour in two bread pans lined neatly with paper. The heat of the oven should be moderate. One-Egg Chocolate Cake Beat half a cup of butter to a cream; gradually beat in one cup of sugar, then one egg beaten light. Sift together two cups of sifted flour, half a teaspoonful of soda, one teaspoonful of cream of tartar, two level teaspoonfuls of cinnamon, a level teaspoonful, each, of clove and all- spice and one-fourth a nutmeg, grated; add this mixture to the first, alternately, with one cup of sweet milk. Bake in a sheet and cover or not with frosting. 164 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Frosting for One-Egg Cake Stir one cup of sugar, two squares of chocolate, half a cup of water and a tablespoonful of butter over a slow fire until the sugar and chocolate are melted; let boil twenty minutes; beat until cool; add a teaspoonful of vanilla; beat again and spread on the cake. Devil’s Food Y cake chocolate 2 egg-yolks 1 cup brown sugar ¥% cup milk 2 egg-yolks 1 teaspoonful soda ¥ cup milk 2 cups flour Y cup butter 2 egg-whites 1 cup brown sugar Melt the chocolate in a double boiler, add the other ingredients in the bracket, and stir and cook over hot water until the mixture thickens; let cool, and add to the cake mixture just before it is turned into the baking pan. Prepare the cake mixture in the usual manner, adding the whites of eggs, beaten dry, at the last; then add the cooked mixture, and beat the whole thoroughly. Sift the soda before measuring, then sift with the flour. Bake in a sheet. Cover with a boiled frosting made of a cup and a half of sugar and the two egg-whites left over from the custard part of the cake. Half a teaspoonful of cin- namon and one-fourth a teaspoonful of cloves may be added with the flour. Flavor the frosting with half a teaspoonful of vanilla. Chocolate Cake Beat half a cup of butter to a cream; gradually beat in half a cup of granulated sugar and half a cup of sifted brown sugar; then add one ounce of melted chocolate, the beaten yolks of two eggs, half a cup of molasses, one- fourth a cup of cream, one-fourth a cup of milk, two cups CAKE AND FROSTING 165 of flour with half a teaspoonful of soda, half a teaspoon- ful, each, of cinnamon and mace and one-fourth a tea- spoonful of cloves. Lastly, beat in the whites of two eggs beaten dry. Bake in a sheet about twenty-five min- utes. Cover with marshmallow frosting. Marshmallow Frosting Cook one cup and a half of brown sugar, one-fourth a cup, each, of butter and boiling water until it forms a soft ball when tested in cold water. Melt half a pound of marshmallows over boiling water; add to the first mix- ture and beat until thick enough to spread over the cake. Just before spreading add half a teaspoonful of vanilla. Chocolate Cream Cake (Mrs. Vermaas) Beat one-fourth a cup of butter to a cream and the yolks of two eggs until thick. Then gradually beat half a cup of sugar into each, and combine the two mixtures. Add four ounces of chocolate melted over hot water; then, alternately, half a cup of milk and one cup and a half of sifted flour, sifted again with two level teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Lastly, beat in the whites of two eggs beaten dry and a teaspoonful of vanilla extract. Bake in two layers about eighteen minutes. Put the layers together with the following icing. Spread the same icing over the top. Cream Icing for Chocolate Cream Cake Set two cups of granulated sugar, one tablespoonful of butter, and two-thirds a cup of rich milk into a sauce- pan of boiling water, and stir occasionally until melted. Then set over the fire, and stir constantly while boiling from four to six minutes. The mixture should boil at once, or the time cannot be judged accurately. When 166 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK thick as cream, remove from the fire and beat until cool enough to spread. Flavor with a teaspoonful of vanilla extract. The icing should be perfectly smooth, and cover the two layers to the depth of one-fourth an inch. Chocolate Fudge Cake (A. E. K.) Beat half a cup of butter to a cream; gradually beat in one cup of sugar, then two squares of chocolate, grated, the yolks of two eggs beaten light, one cup of sifted flour, less two tablespoonfuls, one teaspoonful of vanilla, the whites of two eggs, beaten dry, and one cup of pecan nut meats. Bake in a pan lined with a buttered paper. The pan should be nine and one-half by five and one-half inches, or its equivalent. Cut the cake in cubes. The cubes should be the size of caramels. The cake may be cut when hot or cold. Chocolate Nougat Cake 4 cup butter 4 cup milk 1)4 cups sugar 134 cups flour 4 ounces (squares) chocolate 3 level teaspoonfuls baking powder 3 teaspoonfuls boiling water Boiled frosting 2 tablespoonfuls sugar 4 Ib. blanched almonds 3 eggs Cream the butter and beat in the sugar. Melt the chocolate over hot water, add the small measure of water and sugar and stir over the fire until smooth; then gradu- ally beat the mixture into the butter and sugar; add the eggs beaten light without separating the whites and yolks, and, alternately, the milk and flour with the baking pow- der. Bake in layers or in one large sheet. Add the al- monds, sliced, to the frosting. Plain Boiled Frosting 34 cup sugar 1 egg-white ¥% cup boiling water Few drops lemon juice, or grated rind 4 lemon CAKE AND FROSTING 167 Melt the sugar in the water over the fire, and wash down the grains of sugar with the tips of the fingers wet repeat- edly in cold water; cover the saucepan and let boil three minutes (to dissolve grains of sugar); uncover, and let boil to 238° F. Pour the syrup very slowly and in a fine stream on the egg-white beaten dry, beating constantly meanwhile; remove the beater and beat occasionally until cool and thick enough to remain in place. The cake should be cold or nearly so when the frosting is set in place. Little Fruit-and-Nut Christmas Cakes 4 cup butter ¥ cup milk 1 cup sugar 134 cups flour 14 chopped nuts 214 level teaspoonfuls baking Y% chopped raisins powder 2 eggs, beaten light Frosting, small red candies, chopped pistachio nuts, candles Mix in the usual manner but without separating the whites and yolks of the eggs. Bake in small tins. Select tiny candles and candle holders; they may be bought in boxes holding two dozen. Little Pound Cakes Y4 cup butter 34 cup sifted flour _ 4 cup sugar 4% teaspoonful baking powder 2 egg-yolks (level) ¥% tablespoonful brandy or 44 teaspoonful mace milk 2 egg-whites, beaten dry Dispose in tiny tins; bake in a quick oven. The mix- ture need not be spread in the tins; it is rich and the heat will cause it to run and fill the shapes. Spread a little confectioner’s frosting on the center of each and deco- rate with a bit of candied cherry. Blitzen Kuchen ¥% cup butter (scant) 1 cup flour 1 cup sugar 3 egg-whites, beaten dry 3 egg-yolks Blanched almonds 168 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Mix in the usual manner. Spread on well buttered pans to the depth of half an inch; sprinkle with the almonds cut in lengthwise shreds. When baked and cold cut into small squares or other shapes. Drop Cookies 2 tablespoonfuls butter 2 tablespoonfuls milk ¥4 cup sugar 1 cup flour : 1 egg, well beaten 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder Cream the butter, beat in the sugar, egg, milk and flour with baking powder in the order given. Drop by small teaspoonfuls on a buttered pan; set a pecan nut meat above, and dredge with sugar; bake in a quick oven. Quick Cookies 1 cup butter (scant) 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder 1 cup sugar 2 eggs, well beaten 2 cups flour Mix the butter, sugar and flour with baking powder with the hand, as in making pastry; add the eggs and stir to a dough. Knead on a floured board; roll into a thin sheet; cut into small cakes; set in to a buttered pan; brush over with beaten egg (white, yolk or whole egg); dredge with sugar; bake in a quick oven. Honey Cakes 14 cup butter 2 oz. sweet almonds 1 cup strained honey Y{ teaspoonful mace 1 tablespoonful lemon juice 4 teaspoonful soda Grated rind 1 lemon 21% cups flour Melt the butter, add the honey, the almonds, blanched and chopped, and the other ingredients. Mix thoroughly, then set aside, covered, in a cool place over night. Roll into a sheet half an inch thick; cut into squares; bake in a moderate oven. When baked brush over the tops of the cakes with a syrup made of a cup of sugar and half CAKE AND FROSTING 169 a cup of water. Boil about five minutes, then beat until it begins to turn white, then use quickly. If it becomes too thick to spread, add a little hot water and let boil again. Oatmeal Drop Cookies 34 cup butter 1 teaspoonful soda 1 cup light brown sugar Y teaspoonful cinnamon 2 eggs, beaten light 4 teaspoonful cloves 4 tablespoonfuls sweet milk 1 cup raisins, chopped 2 cups rolled oats 4 cup nut meats, chopped 1 cup flour Drop the mixture from a spoon on to a buttered baking sheet. If the mixture spreads too much in baking, add more flour. Walnut Cookies 1 cup butter Y{ teaspoonful salt 114 cups sugar 2 cups nut meats 3 eggs, well beaten 114 cups flour 114 cups flour Whole nut meats 1 teaspoonful soda Mix in the usual manner, adding the first measure of flour with the soda and salt, then the nut meats, broken in pieces or chopped, and the last measure of flour. Drop by spoonfuls on to a buttered tin. Decorate the top of each spoonful with a nut meat, dredge with sugar and bake. Poinsettia Wafers Yf cup butter 1 egg-white, beaten dry 1% cup granulated sugar Flour for dough Y% lemon, grated rind and Decoration juice 1 egg-white . 2 egg-yolks Strips of citron and cherries , Granulated sugar Take the dough on the board (magic cover is best), a little at a time, knead slightly, roll into a sheet, and cut into shapes as desired. A cutlet cutter was used for the wafers shown in the illustration. Set the shapes in a but- tered pan, brush over with the white of an egg, beaten 170 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK slightly, decorate with strips of angelica or citron and candied or maraschino cherries, to represent a poinsettia. Dredge with granulated sugar. Bake to a delicate straw- color. Honey Cookies 14 cup butter 3 cups or more flour 34 cup granulated sugar 4 level teaspoonfuls baking powder Can a y lemon Glaze | See sonds 1 egg and 1 yolk Granulated sugar Mix in the usual manner; beat the whole egg and yolk without separating the white from the yolks. Roll into a sheet, cut into cakes, set into a baking pan, brush over with the white of egg slightly beaten, sprinkle with the nuts, dredge with sugar and bake in a moderate oven. Bake one cake before rolling out much of the dough; if the cake spreads too much and looks too rich, add more flour. Nuremberg Gingerbread 4 eggs 1 cup sugar 1 teaspoonful mace 2 cups flour J4 teaspoonful cloves V4 teaspoonful salt 14 cup candied orange peel 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder 4 |b. blanched almonds Beat the eggs very light without separating; beat in the spices and sugar, then the flour, salt and baking powder, and, lastly, the almonds split in halves. Turn into narrow tins well buttered. The mixture should be about three-fourths an inch in depth. Bake about twenty minutes. When cold spread the bottom with con- fectioner’s frosting made with two ounces of chocolate. Pipe narrow threads of white icing across the cake about an inch apart. Before the frosting hardens draw a silver knife down through it to divide the lines into sections about an inch wide; this spreads the white frosting where the knife comes in contact with it. CAKE AND FROSTING 171 Nuremberg Fingers To the ingredients given in the above recipe add one- third a cup of flour, and chop the almonds. Shape with hands or rolling pin into oblongs, similar in size and shape to lady-fingers. Bake, and when cold spread the under side with chocolate icing and decorate with white icing. Ginger Balls 34 cup shortening 1 tablespoonful ginger 1 cup coffee “A” sugar 1 tablespoonful soda 3 eggs or 6 yolks well beaten 1 cup lukewarm water 3 cups flour 1 cup molasses 1 teaspoonful salt 2 ounces candied orange peel Use lard and butter, half and half; cream this; beat in the sugar, then, alternately, the flour sifted with the ginger and soda and the liquids. Bake in well buttered popover pans about twenty-five minutes. The recipe makes two dozen balls. If candied peel be used, soften in hot syrup, chop fine and add to the creamed shortening and sugar. Sand Tarts IY cups butter 2 egg-yolks 4 cups flour 1 egg-white 2 cups sugar Cream the butter, beat in the flour, then the sugar, and, lastly, the yolks and white beaten together. Cover the dough close and let it stand over night. Next day roll into a very thin sheet, using as little flour as pos- sible. Cut into shapes, brush over with the white of an egg, set half a nut meat above, dredge with granulated sugar and bake at once. Doughnuts Sift together five cups of sifted pastry flour, half a teaspoonful of mace, one teaspoonful of salt, two slightly 172 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK rounding teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar and one level teaspoonful of soda. Beat two eggs and the yolk of another; add a generous cup of granulated sugar, and, when well mixed, a scant cup of milk. Stir the liquid into the dry ingredients, adding a little more flour, if necessary, to make a soft dough. Take a little of the dough on to the board, pat into a sheet, cut into rounds and fry in deep fat. Orange Crullers 2 eggs, beaten light 1 teaspoonful salt 14 cup sugar 1 teaspoonful cream of tartar Y4 cup rich milk slightly rounding 2 cups sifted flour 34 level teaspoonful soda Grated rind 1 orange Add the sugar to the eggs, then the milk and flour, sifted with the dry ingredients, and the orange rind. Mix to a dough; roll, part at a time, into a sheet one-fourth of an inch thick. Cut into rounds an inch and a fourth in diameter. Set about a fourth of a teaspoonful of orange marmalade on a piece of dough, cover with a second round and press the edges together; fry in deep fat; roll in sifted powdered sugar. Five O’Clock Cream Cakes YZ cup butter 1 cup cream 4 cup boiling water Y4 cup sugar ¥ cup flour % teaspoonful vanilla extract 1 whole egg Bar-le-duc currants 1 egg-yolk Chopped pistachio nuts With the butter, water, flour and eggs make chou- paste (see Palmerston éclairs). Drop the paste by the teaspoonful on to a buttered baking sheet. Bake about twenty minutes. When cold, open the cakes on one side and fill with the cream, sugar and vanilla beaten firm; let the cream mixture show on the open side. Set a little of the preserves on the top of each and sprinkle with the chopped nuts. CAKE AND FROSTING 173 Scotch Shortbread 1 pound (4 cups) flour Y pound (1 cup) butter 14 pound sugar Put the flour, butter and sugar on a baking board, letting the board rest against the wall, to keep it from mov- ing round the table. Break the butter in small pieces and work into a lump by rubbing along the board with your flat hand and wrist. Roll the lump into a sheet three- fourths of an inch thick, cut in four pieces and prick all over with a silver fork. Put in a hot oven for 5 minutes, then let cool a little and bake 25 minutes longer. When baked, it should be of a very pale, amber tint. Oat-Flake Wafers Beat three-fourths a cup of butter to a cream; gradually beat in two cups of sugar, then two cups of oatmeal, half a cup of boiling water, half a teaspoonful of salt and one teaspoonful of soda sifted with one cup of flour. Mix thoroughly, adding flour as is needed to make a dough. Roll very thin, cut in squares and bake in a quick oven. Almond Meringues Beat the whites of four fresh eggs dry, then gradually beat in one cup of granulated sugar, and when very firm take a spoon and beat in half a cup or more of chopped almonds. Lightly tack strips of waxed paper (such as is used in wrapping butter, etc.) on to a board about one inch in thickness; with a spoon drop the mixture on the paper, giving each portion an oval shape; sprinkle with sliced almonds and dredge with granulated sugar. Set the boards into a slack oven to let the meringues dry out rather than bake. After three-fourths of an hour increase the heat to color the meringues delicately. When baked, lift from the paper with a spatula. 174 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Almond Meringues, with Strawberries and Cream Prepare the mixture as above; with an oval cutter as a pattern, pencil out oval shapes on the paper. On half of these shapes draw a second line, about half an inch from the first, all around. With a spoon fill the solid ovals with the meringues mixture, making it flat on top. Use a pastry bag and plain tube to fill the narrow oval shapes; dredge all with granulated sugar. Set the boards into a slack oven to let the meringues dry out rather than bake. After three-fourths an hour increase the heat to color the mer- ingues delicately. When baked lift from the paper with aspatula. Press the soft part of a solid meringue and an elongated, ring-shaped meringue together, to form a case. Fill these, at serving, with whipped cream and sugared strawberries. To make in quantity allow one white of egg and one-fourth a cup of sugar for each meringue. A cup of cream and half a box of berries will fill six. Pfeffer Nuesse 1 pound sugar ¥ tablespoonful cloves 1 pound flour Y% tablespoonful mace Grated rind 1 lemon ¥% tablepoonful nutmeg Y% cup fine-chopped citron 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder 1 tablespoonful cinnamon 5 eggs Sift the flour, sugar, spices and baking powder together; add the lemon rind and citron and mix to a dough with the eggs beaten without separating the whites and yolks. Roll the dough into a sheet half an inch thick, cut out with a very small (about one inch in diameter) round cutter. Set same side up on a lightly floured board and let stand over night. When ready to bake set wpside down on a tin, and brush over the top with cold water. Bake in a moderate oven. Do not brown, but bake through. When just right they look like tiny pots with CAKE AND FROSTING 175 half of the contents running over. The recipe makes seventy cakes resembling macaroons. Nut Caramel Frosting 114 cups granulated sugar 2 whites of eggs 5 tablespoonfuls caramel syrup 24 cup pecan nut meats 4 cup boiling water Cook the sugar, syrup and water to 238° F. Pour gradually over the whites of eggs beaten dry, beating constantly meanwhile. Return to the fire over boiling water and beat until the frosting thickens perceptibly; beat in the nut meats, broken in pieces, and spread on the cake, leaving the frosting rough. Fluffy Caramel Icing 14 cups granulated sugar Y cup water 14 cup sugar cooked to caramel 4 whites of eggs Pour the water over the sugar cooked to caramel, and stir until the caramel is melted; add the cup and a half of sugar, stir until melted, cover and let boil two or three minutes; uncover and let boil to 240° F. on the sugar thermometer; then pour in a fine stream on the whites of the eggs beaten dry, beating constantly meanwhile. Beat occasionally until cool enough to spread. Half of this recipe will make enough frosting for a sheet of cake of ordinary size. Trilby Frosting To a boiled frosting, beaten until nearly cool enough to spread, add a cup of marshmallows cut into quarters, one-fourth a cup of candied or maraschino cherries cut into slices, and half a teaspoonful of vanilla. CHAPTER XII PASTRY AND PIES Shortening makes tender pastry, water, tough pastry. Equal weights of flour and shortening are the pro- portions for puff-paste. One-half the weight of the flour in shortening makes plain paste. Three-fourths the weight of the flour in shortening, the last fourth folded in, makes flaky or semi-puff paste. Lard makes a soft crust, butter a crisp one. _ In making a pie, let both “crusts” lie loosely on the plate; never stretch pastry to cover the plate; roll the paste to the proper size; lift from the plate and let it contract all it will; cut one-fourth an inch beyond the plate; in cooking, it will shrink to the edge of the plate or inside of it. Brush the edge of the lower paste with cold water, press the upper paste upon it, but keep both free from the edge of the plate. A pie full of juice will not “‘ run over or out,” if it be put together properly. Pie Crust Pass together through a sieve three cups of sifted pastry flour, half a teaspoonful of salt and half a teaspoonful of baking powder. With a knife or the tips of the fingers work into this mixture from two-thirds to three-fourths a cup of shortening. When each little particle of fat is coated with flour, add gradually, mixing meanwhile with a knife, enough cold water to make a paste that sticks together without adhering to the knife or bowl. Turn on LITTLE POUND CAKES. Page 167 CLOVER-LEAF BISCUIT Small Biscuit Baked in Groups of Three MELBA CUPS. Page 211 LITTLE PUMPKIN PIES, WITH WHIPPED CREAM ABOVE. Page 182 MARLBORO TART. Page 183 LEMON SPONGE PIE (MISS SHEA). Page 179 PASTRY AND PIES 177 to a board lightly dredged with flour. Roll the paste with a knife in the flour, then pat it with the rolling-pin into a rectangular shape, and roll out into a long strip. Roll this up tight like a jelly roll, and use when desired. This will make two pies. For a more flaky pastry pre- pare as above, using but half a cup of shortening; then, when the paste is rolled out into the rectangular sheet, spread it with one-fourth or one-half a cup of shortening; then fold it three times, or roll it up, pat and roll out again, and it is ready for use. Flaky Pastry for Two Pies Sift together one cup and a half of sifted, pastry flour and one-fourth a teaspoonful, each, of salt and baking powder. With a knife or the tips of the fingers work in three ounces (about one-third a cup) of shortening, then, using a little cold water as needed, mix with the knife until the dough cleans the bowl, then turn on to a board lightly dredged with flour; turn the paste on the board to coat the entire surface with the flour. Pat with the pin and roll into a rectangular sheet. Have ready about two tablespoonfuls of butter beaten to a cream; spread part of this over one half of the paste, and fold the other half over the butter; again spread one-half of the surface with butter and fold the other half over the butter. Use at once or wrap in waxed paper and set aside, covered, in a cool place until the next day, or even two or three days. Puff-Paste Weigh out half a pound (one cup) of butter and half a pound (two cups) of pastry flour. Put two table spoon- fuls of the flour into a dredger for use when rolling the paste. Add one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt to the rest of the flour. Rinse an earthen bowl and a wooden spoon, 178 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK or the hands, in hot water, then in cold, letting cold water, changed once or twice, stand in the bowl some time, or until the bowl is chilled. Then refill the bowl with cold water, and in it work the butter, with the hand or spoon, until it is pliable and waxy throughout. Then pat it into a thin rectangular cake. Take off about two tablespoonfuls of the butter, and set the rest aside in a cool place until ready to use. With the tips of the fingers or a knife work the two tablespoonfuls of butter into the flour and salt. Then gradually add cold water, and mix the whole to a paste. About three-fourths a cup of water will be needed. The paste should be of such a consistency that it does not stick when kneaded. Dredge a magic cover (used on board and pin) lightly with flour and work it in thoroughly. Then knead the little ball of dough until it is elastic. Cover it with the mixing-bowl, and let ‘‘ rest ” five minutes. Then pat it with the rolling-pin and roll into a rectangular sheet. Have the sheet of paste a little more than twice the width and three times the length of the cake of butter. Set the butter in the middle of one-half the paste, the greatest length of the butter over the greatest length of the paste. Then turn the paste lengthwise over the but- ter, thus folding the paste in the center, lengthwise, and enclosing the butter. Press the three open edges of paste together, to include the air, then fold one end of the paste over and the other under the butter. There will now be three layers of paste over and three under the layer of butter. Press the edges of paste together firmly. Now turn the paste around, in order to roll the sheet of paste in a direction opposite to the first rolling. Let “rest”? about five minutes. Then pat gently with the pin, to press the paste together in ridges and break up the enclosed air into smaller bubbles. Roll the paste into PASTRY AND PIES 179 a long strip, taking pains to roll the butter between the layers of paste and without letting the paste break through to the butter. Keep the edges even. Fold the paste, to make three even layers, with edges perfectly straight. Then turn the paste half-way around, so as to roll in the opposite direction. Let “rest’’ a few minutes. Then pat and roll into a sheet as before. Fold to make three layers. Turn half-way around. Pat and roll out as before. Continue folding, turning, and rolling until the paste has been rolled out six times. Begin counting with the first rolling after the butter has been added. When roll- ing the sixth time, shape the paste for the article or arti- cles to be cut from it. Puff-Paste Vol-au-Vent For a vol-au-vent roll the paste to such thickness that two pieces the size of the vol-au-vent cutter may be cut from it. Dip the cutter in boiling water and stamp out the two pieces; cut each piece again about three-fourths an inch from the edge; cut one piece half through, the other, for the upper piece, three-quarters through; brush the lower piece with cold water and set the other above it; cut out small figures, brush the under side with cold water and use to decorate the center of the top. Let chill on ice half an hour; bake about forty minutes; cut out the center and remove uncooked paste if present. The, oven should be hot on the bottom to send up the paste. Cover the top with brown paper if necessary. Lemon Sponge Pie 3 tablespoonfuls butter 3 rounding tablespoonfuls flour 1)4 cups sugar ; Y¥% cup milk 3 yolks eggs, beaten light 4 teaspoonful salt, scant 134 lemon juice, grated rind if 1 cup milk desired 3 whites eggs, beaten dry 180 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Beat the butter to a cream, beat in part of the sugar; then the yolks, rest of the sugar and the lemon juice. Mix the flour and salt with the half cup of milk, add to the first ingredients, then add the cup of milk and the whites of eggs. Turn into a large agate plate lined with pastry as for a custard pie. Bake from thirty to forty minutes in a moderate oven. Mock Mince Pie 1 cup raisins, seeded and chopped }4cup vinegar from sweet pickle jar or 4 crackers, rolled fine ¥% cup lemon juice 1 cup molasses 1% cup melted butter 1% cups sugar 2 eggs, beaten light Salt and spice as desired. Mix all together and bake between two crusts. Mock Mince Pie, Spring Style Chop together one cup, each, of rhubarb and raisins; add the grated rind and juice of one lemon, two table- spoonfuls of butter, one cup of sugar, one egg well beaten, and mix thoroughly. When turned into the plate lined with pastry dredge on a little flour and half a teaspoonful of salt. Bake with two crusts. Blueberry Pie, with Meringue 2 egg-yolks 1 cup sugar, scant 1 tablespoonful lemon juice 2 tablespoonfuls flour 3 cups fresh blueberries or Y{ teaspoonful salt 2 cups canned berries Beat the yolks, stir in the lemon juice and berries. Sift together the sugar, flour and salt and stir into the blueberry mixture. Turn into a plate lined with pastry as for a custard pie. Bake about twenty-five minutes or until the mixture is “set.” When cooled a little, spread a meringue over the top and return to the oven to cook the meringue. The time of cooking will depend on the PASTRY AND PIES 181 thickness of the meringue. With two whites of eggs cook about ten minutes. To make the meringue, beat the whites dry, then beat in as many rounding tablespoonfuls of sugar as there were whites of eggs. Raisin Pie Line a pie plate with rich pastry, fill with a cup and a half of large seeded raisins, three-fourths a cup of sugar mixed with two tablespoonfuls of flour, the juice of one lemon, half a cup of water, half a teaspoonful of salt and a tablespoonful of butter in bits. Cover with paste. Bake about forty minutes. Cherry Pie Line a plate with pastry; put in as many stoned cherries as the pastry will conveniently hold, probably about a pint measured after stoning; add the juice; sprinkle with half a teaspoonful, scant measure, of salt, about a cup of sugar and two tablespoonfuls of flour. Dot with bits of butter, a tablespoonful in all. Brush the edge of the pastry with cold water, and spread over the whole an upper crust. Press the two crusts together close on the edge, and brush the two edges with cold water. Bake about forty minutes. Tart cherries make the best pies. A little lemon juice improves a pie made with sweetish fruit; more sugar will be required with sour cherries. Sour Cream Pie Beat one egg and two yolks of eggs light; beat in one cup of sugar, one cup of sour cream, half a cup of seeded raisins or currants, a level teaspoonful of flour, one-fourth a teaspoonful of lemon extract and one-fourth a teaspoonful of ground cinnamon and cloves. Bake in a pie-plate lined with pastry until about firm in the center. Beat the whites of two eggs dry, then gradually beat in two 182 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK rounding tablespoonfuls of granulated sugar and spread over the pie. Return the pie to the oven to cook the me- ringue. Let cook about eight minutes in a slow oven, then increase the heat to brown the meringue slightly. Butter-scotch Pie Bake pastry rolled as for pie crust on the outside of an inverted pie pan. Prick the paste all over and set it on a tin sheet to keep the edge from contact with the oven. When baked set inside the pan, turn in butter- scotch filling and cover with a meringue made of the whites of two eggs and one-fourth a cup of granulated sugar. Let bake about ten minutes. Serve when partly or wholly cold. Butter-scotch Filling Scald one cup of milk in a double boiler; stir three level tablespoonfuls of cornstarch and one-fourth a tea- spoonful of salt with half a cup of cold milk to a smooth consistency, then let cook in the hot milk, stirring con- stantly, until smooth and thick. Cook two tablespoonfuls of butter with one cup of brown sugar until the sugar is soft and bubbly throughout. Do not cook it to caramel. Stir the sugar into the cornstarch mixture, then add two yolks of eggs beaten light and diluted with a little of the hot mixture. Use when cooled a little. Pumpkin Pie 1}4 cups cooked and sifted 2% cup sugar pumpkin 2 tablespoonfuls molasses 1 cup milk Y4 teaspoonful salt ¥ cup cream 1 tablespoonful ginger 1 egg, beaten light Mix all the ingredients together and turn into a deep plate lined and finished with a fluted edge. Bake until the center is firm. The oven should be of good heat at PASTRY AND PIES 183 first to bake the pastry. After ten or fifteen minutes reduce the heat. Twenty-five or thirty minutes of cook- ing are needed. Marlboro Tart Line a large pie plate (agate is preferable) with pastry; with pastry jagger cut off long strips, a scant half-inch in width, of flaky or puff-paste. Mix together two cups of grated apple, the grated rind and juice of one lemon, one cup and a half of sugar, two eggs beaten without separating the whites and yolks, two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, one-half a teaspoonful of salt and one cup of thin cream. Turn into the plate lined with pastry, wet the edge, and set the strips of pastry over the top of the filling in two directions. Finish with a strip of paste on the edge. Let bake until firm in the center. : Strawberry Tarts Cut out round or oval shapes from flaky or puff-paste; set these on a baking sheet, prick with a fork, then pipe a narrow band of chou-paste on the edge of each; let bake about twenty minutes. For a basket of strawberries, hulled and washed, if needed, take a cup of sugar and one- fourth a cup of boiling water; cover and let stand on the back of the stove, stirring occasionally until melted and boiling; put in part of the berries and skim out as soon as the boiling point is reached; repeat until all the berries have been thus cooked. Let the syrup boil until very thick, draining in any syrup that may stand on the berries; return the berries to the syrup, let boil once, then use to fill the open space in the center of the tarts. Cranberry Tarts Cut rounds from flaky paste and an equal number of rounds from puff-paste, if at hand, otherwise use flaky 184 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK pastry for both sets of rounds. Cut out three or four small rounds from the paste to be used as covers, but retain them in place to give vent to the steam. Put a spoonful of cranberry jelly on the flaky rounds, brush the edge with cold water and press the puff-paste rounds above; dredge with granulated sugar and bake in a rather hot oven about fifteen minutes. Other fillings, as jam or jelly or stewed fruit may be used. Napoleons Roll flaky or puff-paste into a sheet one-fourth an inch thick, and cut to fit square or oblong biscuit pans. Prick these with a fork, brush over with beaten yolk of egg diluted with milk, and let bake until done. At once cut into strips three inches long and one inch and a half wide. Three pieces of paste form one service. Put fruit jelly (currant, quince, apple, etc.) or orange or lemon curd on the lower bit of paste; whipped cream, sweetened and flavored, or cream cake filling on the second layer; and confectioner’s frosting, white or chocolate, on the last layer. Cream Cake Filling Scald one pint of milk; sift together half a cup, each, of sugar and flour; add one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt, dilute with a little of the hot milk, and when evenly blended stir into the rest of the hot milk; stir until the mixture thickens; cover and let cook ten minutes. Beat two eggs; add one-fourth a cup of sugar and beat again, then stir into the hot mixture; let cook two or three minutes, until the egg is set. When nearly cold and ready to use, beat in half a teaspoonful of vanilla extract. PASTRY AND PIES 185 Confectioner’s Frosting Into one-fourth a cup of boiling water or hot sugar syrup stir sifted confectioner’s sugar to make a frosting that is stiff enough to remain in place, yet liquid enough to run smooth. Flavor to taste. Use vanilla with choco- late. The chocolate should be melted and added with the sugar. CHAPTER XIII HOT AND COLD PUDDINGS, CUSTARDS, JELLIES, ' CREAMS, ETC. The cooking of a steamed pudding must be continuous, and boiling water must be used to replenish the supply or the pudding will be “ heavy.” If eggs are to be added to a pudding made of uncooked grains, tapioca, cornstarch, etc., cook the starchy material in the liquid, then add the eggs with the sugar and finish the cooking over hot water, or protected in some way from strong heat. Baked custards or puddings in which eggs are used should be set in the oven in a pan of boiling water, on many folds of paper. The water should not boil during the cooking. Such dishes are cooked when they feel firm in the center. A souffié must be served the instant it is done, lest it “fall.” Send from the oven to the table. Four eggs to a quart of milk give a custard of delicate consistency; such custard must be served from the dish in which it is baked. Hight eggs to a quart of milk are needed, when the cus- tard is to be turned from the mold in perfect shape. Yolks of egg rather than whites should predominate in custards. Two yolks are equivalent to a whole egg. A pudding should be cooled before meringue is spread upon it. Set the meringue to cook in a very moderate oven. Even a shallow meringue should cook at least ten minutes before it begins to color. PUDDINGS, CUSTARDS, JELLIES, CREAMS, ETC. 187 In making meringue for puddings, pies, etc., allow two level tablespoonfuls of sugar to each white of egg. Beat the whites dry, then gradually beat in the sugar. After setting the meringue in place dredge the top with gran- ulated sugar. Two ounces of gelatine — the usual package — will jelly two quarts of liquid. In summer, or if fruit, etc., is to be held in the jelly, cut down the quantity of liquid to three pints. In combination with whipped whites of eggs or cream, one tablespoonful of gelatine (one-fourth a package) will jelly one pint of material (the cream is measured before whipping). Avoid heating fruit juice that is to be jellied—heat detracts from the flavor. The success of a Bavarian cream depends on having the gelatine mixture, into which the cream is folded, at the right consistency when the two are combined. With ice in which to chill the gelatine mixture the process can be completed quickly and at just the right moment. English Plum Pudding 1 Ib. beef suet 1 grated nutmeg 1 Ib. seeded raisins 1 tablespoonful mace 1 Ib. currants 1 tablespoonful cinnamon 4 Ib. citron 4 teaspoonfuls cream 5 tablespoonfuls brown sugar 6 eggs 8 cups grated bread 1 cup brandy or fruit juice 1 cup flour Chop the suet fine, shave the citron, roll the fruit in the flour and spices sifted together. Beat the yolks, add the cream and stir into them all the other ingredients; add the whites of the eggs, beaten dry, at the last. Cook six hours without allowing the kettle to stop boiling. Serve with hard sauce or with a cup of sugar and half a cup of water, boiled five minutes and flavored with half a cup of wine or brandy. For a richer sauce use 188 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Frozen Brandy Sauce Mix one pint of double cream, half a cup of sugar, one teaspoonful of vanilla, the juice of one lemon and one-third a cup of brandy, and freeze as ice cream. Hard Sauce, Holiday Style Beat half a cup of butter to a cream; gradually beat in one cup of sugar. Divide into three parts; leave one plain, add one or two ounces of melted chocolate to one part, and into the third beat strawberry or raspberry preserves or jam to color and flavor as desired. A little rose color-paste may be added to heighten the color of the preserves. Steamed Blackberry Pudding ¥ cup butter 14 teaspoonful salt 4 cup sugar 1% cup water or milk 2 egg-yolks 2 egg-whites 2 cups flour 1 cup blackberries 4 teaspoonfuls baking powder Cream the butter, beat in the sugar, yolks, liquid, flour with baking powder and salt, and, lastly, the whites beaten dry and the berries. Steam in a buttered mold one hour and a half. Serve with blackberry hard or liquid sauce. Blueberries, peaches or apples may replace the blackberries. The pudding is particularly good when made with raspberries. Blackberry Hard Sauce Cream half a cup of butter, beat into it one cup of sugar, and then, drop by drop, half a cup of crushed and sifted blackberry pulp. Raspberries or strawberries may be used in the same way. PUDDINGS, CUSTARDS, JELLIES, CREAMS, ETC. 189 Blackberry Liquid Sauce Crush and sift a basket of blackberries to exclude seeds. Mix with one cup and a half of sugar; let stand until the sugar melts; stir before using. Raspberries and straw- berries may be used. Baked Apple Dumpling Tart apples V4 teaspoonful salt Salt 3 tablespoonfuls butter 3 tablespoonfuls cold water 1 egg (this may be omitted) 1% cups pastry flour 34 cup milk (scant measure) 3 teaspoonfuls baking powder Butter an agate baking dish; into it slice tart apples to fill to the top; add a dash of salt and the cold water. Make a soft biscuit dough of the other ingredients and spread it over the apples. Bake in a quick oven about twenty-five minutes. Invert the dish so as to have the apples on the top. Serve hot, with butter and sugar or syrup. Apple Dumplings - Make flaky pastry, using two cups of flour, half a cup of shortening, and water as needed, folding in at the last two or three level tablespoonfuls of butter. Roll the pastry into a sheet and cut into rounds large enough to enclose an apple. Have ready some pared-and-cored apples, cooked in a cup, each, of sugar and water until tender but not broken, and then cooled. Set an apple on each piece of paste, and enclose it secure. Have the paste smooth on top, brush over with beaten yolk of egg and dredge with granulated sugar. Bake about fifteen minutes. Serve hot with hard sauce. Rolled Apple Dumplings Sift together two cups of sifted pastry flour, four level teaspoonfuls of baking powder and half a teaspoonful of 190 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK salt. Work in one-fourth a cup of shortening, then mix to a dough with milk (between half and two-thirds a cup will be needed). Turn the dough upon a floured board, and toss with the knife until lightly floured, then knead slightly and pat and roll into a rectangular sheet less than half an inch in thickness. Pare and core four or five quick-cooking tart apples and chop them rather coarse. Sprinkle the apples over the dough, dredge with two or three tablespoonfuls of sugar, then roll like a jelly roll and very compactly. Cut the roll into pieces two inches long. Set these on end close together in a buttered baking pan. Put a bit of butter on top of each roll. Bake in a quick oven about twenty-five minutes. Serve hot with syrup and butter. Blackberry Shortcake 3 cups pastry flour 1% cups milk (about) 6 | Le monnle baking 2 baskets berries 2 cups granulated sugar 1 fnspooal salt Butter to spread YX to 14 cup shortening Sift together the flour, baking powder and salt; with the tips of the fingers work in the shortening; mix to a soft dough with the milk. Spread the paste in two round tins. Bake in a quick oven. Before beginning to mix the cake, mix the berries and sugar, cover and let stand in a warm (not hot) place until the cakes are baked. Spread the bottom of the cakes generously with butter. Set one cake on the serving dish, cover with the prepared fruit, above this set the other, cover with fruit, and dispose the rest of the fruit on the dish around the cake. Serve at once. Strawberries, raspberries, peaches and canned apricots make good shortcakes. Canned apricots need a generous measure of sugar. Hot marshmallow sauce is good with strawberry shortcake. PUDDINGS, CUSTARDS, JELLIES, CREAMS, ETC. 191 Hot Marshmallow Sauce Boil one cup of sugar and half a cup of hot water five or six minutes after boiling begins. Do not stir after the syrup boils. Remove from the fire; add half a pound of marshmallows and beat until they are melted. Flavor with half a teaspoonful of vanilla, if desired. If serving be delayed, keep the sauce hot over warm water, then add a few drops of hot syrup or boiling water and beat again. Apricot Shortcake Yg cup butter 2 egg-whites 1 cup sugar ¥ cup milk 2 egg-yolks 134 cups flour 21% teaspoonfuls baking powder Filling 1 cup canned apricots 1 cup sugar 1 egg-white, unbeaten Juice 1 lemon Mix the cake part in the usual manner; bake in two layers. When cold put together with filling between and above. Remove the skin from the apricots, if present; drain free from syrup; press the pulp through a ricer or sieve. Measure after sifting; add the sugar, lemon juice and white of egg, and beat the mixture until it will stand alone. A slitted wooden spoon is the best utensil at first— later an egg beater may be used. It will take about half an hour to beat the mixture firm. Raw apples grated, banana pulp pressed through a ricer, or other semi- solid fruit may be used. Apricots give a most pleasing flavor. When raw fruits are used mix the pulp at once with the lemon juice to keep it from discoloring. Cake made with raw fruit should be eaten the day it is made. Made with apricots the cake will keep several days. 192 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Brown Betty Put a layer of sliced tart apples in a buttered pudding dish. Sprinkle with sugar and ground cinnamon or grated lemon rind, and cover with bread crumbs — center of the loaf — mixed with melted butter. Alternate the layers of seasoned apples and buttered crumbs until the dish is filled, having the last layer of crumbs. Bake about an hour. Serve with cream. If the apples are dry, add half a cup of cold water, when the dish is first set into the oven. From one to three pints of apples may be used to one pint of crumbs. Molasses may be used in the place of sugar. Half a cup of sweetening may be used to a pint of apples. Raisins, citron and nuts, all cut fine, may be added to the:apples. Bread Pudding, Viennoise 3 eggs, beaten light 14 teaspoonful cinnamon ¥% cup sugar cooked to caramel 3 cups milk 4 cup water 2 cups soft sifted bread crumbs 4 cup sugar 1 cup dried currants 14 teaspoonful salt Beat the eggs, add the caramel dissolved in the water, the sugar, spice and milk, and pour over the bread and fruit. Turn into individual buttered-and-sugared molds (dredge the molds with sugar after they are buttered to insure easy removal from molds). Let cook in a dish of boiling water as a custard. Serve hot with any pudding sauce. Delmonico Pudding with Peaches or Apricots Pudding 4 to 6 halves of canned apricots 184 cups scalding hot milk or peaches with a little fruit 2 yolks eggs syrup Y4 teaspoonful salt Y{ cup cornstarch 14 cup sugar 14 cup cold milk 1 teaspoonful butter CHOCOLATE CHARLOTTE RUSSE (BAVARIAN CREAM FILLING). Page 204 ALMOND MERINGUES, WITH STRAWBERRIES AND CREAM. Page 201 CHARLOTTE RUSSE, WITH JELLY ROLL. Page 205 POINSETTIA WAFERS. Page 169 ICE CREAM, BAKED ALASKA, WITH FIGS. Page 209 SMALL GRAHAM CRACKER CAKES. Page 161 PUDDINGS, CUSTARDS, JELLIES, CREAMS, ETC. 193 Meringue Y teaspoonful vanilla extract 2 whites eggs 4 tablespoonfuls sugar Put the fruit and syrup in a pudding dish; make a thick “boiled custard” of the other ingredients, cooking the starch ten or fifteen minutes in the hot milk before adding the yolks of eggs with the sugar. Turn the custard over the fruit. Beat the whites of eggs dry; gradually beat in half the sugar, then fold in the other half and the extract. Spread the meringue over the custard and let stand in a moderate oven about ten minutes. Serve hot or cold. Baked Rice-and-Milk Pudding Blanch a cup of rice by heating to the boiling point in plenty of cold water and then draining and rinsing in cold water. Add one cup of sugar, a teaspoonful of salt, a grating of nutmeg or a little ground cinnamon, one-half to one whole cup of stoned raisins and six cups of milk. Let bake in a moderate oven about three hours. Stir two or three times during the first hour, to keep the raisins from. settling to the bottom of the dish. If necessary, cover with a buttered paper, to keep the top from be- coming too brown. If the pudding looks at all dry, add another cup of milk ten or fifteen minutes before taking from the oven. The grains of rice should be whole, each imbedded in a creamy mass. This will serve eight or ten people, and is at its best when half cold. Baked Tapioca Pudding 3 cups hot milk Y teaspoonful salt Y cup quick cooking tapioca 3 eggs 14 cup sugar Mix the tapioca, sugar and salt, and stir into the hot milk; let cook until the mixture thickens slightly, then 194 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK stir in the eggs beaten light. Turn into a buttered baking dish and let cook (without boiling) until firm in the center. Serve hot with a sauce flavored with vanilla or wine. Sauce for Tapioca Pudding Stir three level tablespoonfuls of flour and one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt with cold water to make a smooth thin paste; pour on one cup of boiling water, and stir until smooth and boiling; add three-fourths a cup of sugar and let simmer ten minutes. Flavor with one teaspognful of vanilla, two tablespoonfuls of sherry or a grating of , nutmeg or half a teaspoonful of ground mace. Chocolate Batter Pudding 1¥ cups hot milk . 2 squares chocolate 4 cup flour Y4 cup sugar ¥ cup cold milk 4 egg-yolks 14 teaspoonful salt 3 tablespoonfuls butter 4 teaspoonful cinnamon 4 egg-whites Stir the flour, cold milk, salt and cinnamon until smooth; then cook in the hot milk ten minutes; add the chocolate; beat the yolks, beat in the sugar, then beat into the hot mixture; add the butter; fold in the whites beaten dry. Bake in a well buttered pudding dish about half an hour. Serve hot, with Sabayon, wine or yellow sauce. Yellow Sauce Beat the yolk of an egg until light and thick; gradually beat in one cup of sugar, then one cup of hot milk, the white of one egg beaten dry and one teaspoonful of vanilla. Sabayon Sauce 1 whole egg 4 cup sherry wine 2 egg-yolks 1 teaspoonful lemon juice 14 cup sugar PUDDINGS, CUSTARDS, JELLIES, CREAMS, ETc. 195 Beat the eggs until light and thick; gradually beat in the sugar; set over boiling water and beat constantly while the wine is gradually added. When the sauce thickens slightly, add the lemon juice and turn into a cold dish to arrest the cooking. Nut-and-Raisin Soufflé 5 whites eggs Y cup chopped nuts 1% cup seeded raisins 44 cup sugar Cut fine the raisins and chop the nuts; if the raisins are chopped, they cannot be mixed oneal through the soufflé unless they are. “cooked with water. Beat the whites dry; fold in the sugar and prepared nuts and raisins. Turn the mixture into a buttered baking dish and let cook as a custard (on many folds of paper and surrounded with boiling water) until the center is firm and the mixture well puffed. Serve hot, from the baking dish, with cream and sugar or with cold, boiled custard. Fig Whip 5 whites of eggs 14 cup sugar Y{ teaspoonful cream of tartar 8 or 10 cooked figs Beat the eggs a little, add the cream of tartar and beat until dry; gradually beat in the sugar, then fold in the figs cut in small pieces. Turn into a buttered baking dish dredged with sugar; set into a dish, on many folds of paper, and surround with boiling water; let cook about twenty-five minutes. The water should not boil during the cooking. Serve hot with cold, boiled custard. Candied fruit, raisins, nuts, prunes, cooked apples, bananas, peaches, etc., may be used in the same way. The last three fruits are usually added in the form of a purée. 196 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Dried Apricot Soufflé Wash half a pound of dried apricots, drain, cover with cold water and, after some hours or the next day, cook until tender and the water nearly evaporates. Reserve half a cup of this purée for a sauce. Beat the whites of five eggs dry; gradually beat in half a cup of sugar and the apricot purée. Turn the mixture into a pudding dish, buttered and dredged with granulated sugar, and let cook until firm in the center and well puffed up. Cook on many folds of paper in a dish with boiling water around. Serve hot with the half-cup of purée folded into a cup of cream and half a cup of sugar, beaten firm. Crusts with Bananas, Raisins and Pears 6 rounds of cake or bread 1 cup water 4 cup seedless raisins ¥% cup sugar 3 bananas 1% tablespoonfuls cornstarch 3 pears 4 cup cold water Juice 14 lemon Y4 teaspoonful salt Stale sponge cake or brioche are usually selected, but bread may be used. Cut the material into slices, then stamp into rounds. Toast, sauté in clarified butter or spread with butter and let color slightly in the oven. Cook the raisins until tender in boiling water. When done there should be a cup of water; add the bananas, peeled, scraped and cut in cubes, also the pears, pared and cut in cubes. Fresh or canned pears may be used. Let cook about two minutes, then add the sugar; when again boiling stir in the cornstarch and salt smoothed in the cold water; stir till boiling, then let simmer ten min- utes. The fruit should not lose its shape nor should the mixture be sloppy. Currant jelly, to make the mixture red, may be added before the bananas and pears. Serve the fruit, etc., on the crusts either hot or cold. PUDDINGS, CUSTARDS, JELLIES, CREAMS, ETC. 197 Croustades of Fruit, Maltaise Cut stale sponge cake into squares of a size suitable for individual service. Remove a square piece from the center of each piece to form a case. Fill the hollow center with julienne strips of preserved fruit, pear, peach, pineapple or plums, mixed with cooked sultana raisins and a thick syrup flavored to taste. Serve hot or cold. Apricot Dessert, Easter Style Cut rounds from stale sponge cake half an inch thick, a little larger than a poached egg. Set a canned apricot in the center of each. Add half a cup of sugar to the apricot syrup and let cook until well reduced. When cold put a spoonful of syrup over each apricot to glaze it slightly (if there be skins on the apricots remove them). To a cup of cream add three tablespoonfuls of sugar and a few drops of vanilla and beat until firm. Pipe the cream around the apricots. Each portion will resemble a poached egg on toast. Peach Gateau Cut sponge cake in thin slices; pare and slice ripe peaches and sprinkle with sugar as needed. In a glass dish dispose alternate layers of cake and the peaches, with cream or cold boiled custard. Boiled Custard 1 pint milk 1% teaspoonful salt 3 or 4 egg-yolks 1% teaspoonful vanilla extract ¥% cup sugar Scald the milk in a double boiler. Beat the yolks, add the sugar and salt and beat again; dilute with a little of the hot milk; mix thoroughly and stir into the rest of the hot milk. Stir and cook until the mixture coats the spoon slightly. Strain into a cold dish. Flavor before using. 198 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Zabaione Beat one whole egg and three yolks; add half a cup of sugar and beat again; set over hot water and stir con- stantly while half a cup of sherry wine is gradually added; continue stirring and cooking until the mixture thickens; then add a tablespoonful of lemon juice and fold in the whites of two eggs beaten dry. Continue the cooking and folding until the whites are set and the mixture is quite thick and fluffy. Serve, hot or cold, preferably cold, in glasses. Rhubarb-and-Raisin Jelly 40 or more raisins 1 orange, juice and rind 2 cups rhubarb 4 package gelatine 1 cup sugar ¥4 cup.cold water Cook the raisins in boiling water until the skins are tender and the water reduced till it barely covers them. Remove the raisins, add the rhubarb (in small pieces), the sugar, and the juice and grated rind of the orange; let cook, shaking the saucepan gently once in a while, until the rhubarb is tender but not broken; add the gelatine softened in the cold water, and, if needed, boiling water to make one pint in all. Cut the raisins on one side and remove the seeds. Have the mold chilled in ice water. Dip the raisins in a little of the rhubarb liquid and press them on the bottom and sides of the mold following some regular order or pattern. Add any raisins left over to the rhubarb mixture; when this begins to thicken, turn into the mold. Serve with whipped cream. Claret Jelly, with Plums Soften half a package of gelatine in half a cup of cold water; add one cup and a half of boiling water; stir until the gelatine is dissolved, then add two-thirds a PUDDINGS, CUSTARDS, JELLIES, CREAMS, ETC. 199 cup of sugar, the juice of one large lemon and, when cooled somewhat, one cup and a half of claret wine. Set aside to become firm and cold. When ready to serve beat one cup of cream until firm. Set green gage plums (canned) around the unmolded jelly; pipe the cream on the jelly and between the plums. Have the syrup from the plums boiled to a jelly and cooled; set this around the edge. Sprinkle the whole with fine-chopped pistachio nuts. Raisins Molded in Wine Jelly 14 package gelatine 1 cup sugar 4 cup cold water Juice 1 lemon 2 cups boiling water 1 cup sherry wine 14 Ib. large raisins If the skins are at all tough, cook the raisins in hot water until tender; drain and dry on a cloth, then seed carefully to preserve the shape. Use the water in which the raisins were cooked, after straining, for the hot water needed in making the jelly. Set a mold in ice and water, pour in a few spoonfuls of the liquid, and let it become firm. Arrange raisins on this to form some symmetrical design, and put a few drops of the liquid about each raisin. As this sets, it will hold them in place. Cover with a half-inch layer of liquid jelly. Then, when firm, add more raisins and more jelly in layers, until the ingredients are used. Serve garnished with whipped cream and cubes of jelly, molded without raisins for this purpose. Banana Sponge Vy package gelatine 1 cup banana pulp Y% cup cold water 34 cup sugar Y4 cup boiling water Juice 1 lemon 3 egg-whites Garnish 2 or 3 bananas 1 cup double cream ¥% lemon 2 tablespoonfuls sugar Y{ teaspoonful vanilla 200 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Soften the gelatine in the cold water, and dissolve in the boiling water; peel and scrape ripe bananas, press the pulp through a sieve or ricer; heat the cup of banana pulp to the boiling point, add the sugar and lemon juice; stir over ice water until the mixture begins to thicken, then fold in the egg-whites beaten dry. Line a mold with parchment paper neatly; slice the bananas and squeeze over them the lemon juice to keep them from discoloring; dispose these on the bottom and sides of the mold; turn in the sponge. When unmolded decorate with the cream beaten firm. Pineapple Sponge 14 cups grated pineapple 4 package gelatine ¥Y% cup water Y4 cup cold water 24 cup sugar Juice 44 lemon 2 egg-whites Cook the pineapple and half cup of water about ten minutes, then press through a cheese-cloth to remove all liquid possible; add the sugar and gelatine softened in the cold water and stir over the fire until the sugar and gela- tine are dissolved; chill in cold water; add the lemon juice, and when beginning to set add the whites beaten dry and beat until very stiff; turn into a’mold. Serve unmolded with sugar and cream or a boiled custard. Eggs en Surprise Drain the syrup from a can of choice apricots. To two cups of syrup add the juice of two oranges and one lemon and half a cup of sugar, and set over the fire to become hot. Soften two level tablespoonfuls of granu- lated gelatine in half a cup of cold water, and turn into the hot liquid. Stir until the gelatine is dissolved, then strain through a cheese-cloth. Reserve half a cup, and set the rest to cool in ice water. Beat the whites of three PUDDINGS, CUSTARDS, JELLIES, CREAMS, ETC. 201 eggs until dry. When the liquid mixture becomes cold and begins to thicken, add to it the beaten whites, and continue to beat (with the egg beater) until the whole will hold its shape. Then with it form rounds on serving dishes, and set half an apricot on each, to simulate a poached egg. Pour a little of the reserved syrup over the apricots, to glaze them slightly and exclude the air, and set aside in a cool place until ready to serve. This recipe will serve ten or twelve. Almond Meringues, with Strawberries and Cream Beat the whites of four fresh eggs dry; then gradually beat in one cup of granulated sugar, and when very firm take a spoon and beat in half a cup or more of chopped almonds. Lightly tack strips of waxed paper (such as is used in wrapping butter, etc.) on to a board about one inch in thickness; with an oval dish as a pattern, pencil out oval shapes on the paper. On half of these shapes draw a second line, about half an inch from the first, all around. With a spoon fill the solid ovals with the meringue mixture, making it flat on top. Use a pastry bag and plain tube to fill the narrow oval shapes; dredge all with granulated sugar. Set the boards into a slack oven to let the meringues dry out rather than bake. After three-fourths an hour increase the heat to color the meringues delicately. When baked lift from the paper with a spatula. Press the soft part of a solid meringue and an elongated, ring-shaped meringue together, to form a case. Fill these, at serving, with whipped cream and sugared strawberries. To make in quantity allow one white of egg and one-fourth a cup of sugar for each me- ringue. A cup of cream and half a box of berries will fill six. 202 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Stewed Prunes Stuffed with Nuts Wash prunes, then drain and let stand over night in a fresh supply ef cold water. Let simmer until tender; add a small quantity of sugar and let simmer a few moments, until the liquid is thickened somewhat and is not large in quantity. Make a slit on one side of each prune and -remove the stone; fill the opening thus left with sliced or chopped nuts. Spread a little whipped cream on indi- vidual dishes and set three or four prunes on the cream; partially cover with more cream and finish with one or two prunes stuffed with nuts. Serve as a dessert dish at dinner or luncheon. Apricot Bavarian Cream 14 package gelatine (scant) 34 cup sugar 4 cup cold water (scant) Juice 34 lemon Y% cup hot apricot syrup 1 cup double cream 1 cup apricot purée 4 cup thin cream Apricots for ling mold Sauce ~ Y{ cup sugar yy lemon juice Apricot syrup For this dish with sauce one can of apricots is required. Soften the gelatine in the cold water and dissolve in the hot syrup; add the apricot purée (canned apricots pressed through a sieve), the sugar and lemon juice; stir until the sugar is dissolved, then chill on ice and water. When the mixture begins to thicken, fold in the cream beaten quite firm. Have ready an earthen bowl holding one quart, set a half apricot in the bottom, above this against the sides of the bowl set a row of half apricots, each cut in three or four lengthwise strips; set these a little dis- tance apart; put apricot cream mixture into the bowl to the top of the apricot lining; then set in place against the bowl another row of strips of apricot; put in mixture PUDDINGS, CUSTARDS, JELLIES, CREAMS, ETC. 203 as before and so continue until the bowl is filled. For the sauce boil the rest of the apricot syrup with the sugar and lemon juice about six minutes; skim and use when cold on each service of cream. Pineapple Dessert Open a can of choice, sliced pineapple. Set eight slices into glass saucers and pipe pineapple Bavarian cream in the open centers and around the edge of each slice. Cut two slices of the pineapple into thin triangular pieces and a few candied or maraschino cherries into thin strips and use to deccrate the dishes. For the Bavarian cream soften a tablespoonful of gelatine in one-fourth a cup of cold water, and dissolve in one cup of the liquid from the can, heated to the boiling point; add one-fourth a cup of sugar and the juice of a lemon. Set the dish containing the gelatine mixture into a pan of ice and water and stir until it begins to thicken, then gradually fold into it one cup of double cream beaten solid to the bottom of the bowl. When the mixture is stiff enough to hold its shape, set it in place with a pastry bag and star tube. Coffee Charlotte Russe 1 cup double cream 34 cup sugar 1 cup cream, top of milk bottle 34 cup hot black coffee 14 package gelatine 3 egg-yolks 4 cup cold black coffee 2 tablespoonfuls sugar Whip the cream until quite firm throughout. Soften the gelatine in the cold coffee. Cook the first, measure of sugar to caramel; add the hot coffee and let stand to dissolve. Beat the yolks, add the small quantity of sugar, and cook in the hot coffee and caramel until the mixture thickens; add the softened gelatine and stir until dissolved; let chill until the mixture begins to thicken, then fold in the cream. Have lady-fingers trimmed to fit a mold. 204 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK : When the cream-mixture is firm enough to hold its shape, set a lady-finger in place; put a spoonful of the coffee mixture at the base to hold the cake in place, and repeat until the mold is lined with the fingers; then finish filling the mold. Set aside to become chilled and firm. For a firmer mixture use one-third a package of gelatine. Chocolate Charlotte Russe (Bavarian Cream Filling) 2 ozs. chocolate Y{ cup cold water 24 cup sugar 1 teaspoonful vanilla extract ¥% cup boiling water 1 cup double cream 4 package gelatine 14 cup cream from top of milk bottle Melt the chocolate over hot water, add the sugar and boiling water and stir until boiling. Soften the gelatine in the cold water and add to the hot chocolate mixture. When the gelatine is dissolved, add the vanilla and stir in ice and water until the mixture begins to thicken; fold in the thick and thin cream beaten together until very light. Line a quart Charlotte Russe mold with lady fingers, put the chocolate mixture into it by spoonfuls. When unmolded the dish may be decorated with half a cup of double cream, beaten firm, and slices of mara- schino cherries. The decoration may be omitted. Chocolate Charlotte Russe (Without Gelatine) 1)4 ozs. chocolate 1 cup double cream Y{ cup boiling water 14 cup cream from top of bottle of 1g cup sugar milk ¥% teaspoonful vanilla Melt the chocolate over hot water, add the boiling water and sugar and stir and cook until smooth and boiling. Let cool, then add the vanilla and cream and beat until firm. Have ready glass cups or paper cases PUDDINGS, CUSTARDS, JELLIES, CREAMS, ETC. 205 lined with strips of lady-fingers. The strips should be of uniform width and length and should extend half an inch or more above the receptacle. Use the chocolate mixture to fill the lined dishes or cases. Cherries and half a cup of cream beaten dry may be used as a garnish. Charlotte Russe, with Jelly Roll Line the bottom and sides of an oval Charlotte mold with thin slices of sponge jelly roll. Soften one and a half tablespoonfuls of gelatine in one-third a cup of cold milk and dissolve in one cup of scalded milk; add a scant half cup of sugar and stir until dissolved; then add one teaspoonful of vanilla and three tablespoonfuls of sherry wine and stir over ice and water until the mixture begins to thicken, then fold in one cup and a half of cream beaten very light but not dry. When the mixture holds its shape, use to fill the prepared mold. Slices of plain sponge cake may replace the jelly roll. CHAPTER XIV FROZEN DESSERTS It is a matter of economy of time and ice to chill a mixture that is to be frozen before packing it in the freezing mixture. Parfaits and mousses are a combination of whipped cream and a fruit or custard mixture. The two articles to be combined should be of about the same density; to secure this, use a small quantity of gelatine with fruit juice and pulp, and yolks of eggs with chocolate, coffee and caramel. When molding ices, chill the mold before filling it. When packing filled molds, reverse them after they are filled; this is particularly necessary when packing parfaits, which should be of the same texture from cover to cover. It is a very simple matter to unmold an ice packed in a mold made with two covers. To unmold an ice, let water from the cold water faucet run over the mold, then wipe dry. Vanilla Ice Cream (Junket) Heat one quart of milk, one cup of double (whipping) cream, one cup of sugar and one tablespoonful of vanilla extract to a lukewarm temperature (not over 80° F.); stir in one junket tablet, crushed and dissolved in one tablespoonful of cold water, and let stand in a warm place, undisturbed, until the milk jellies, then chill and turn into the can of a freezer. Pack the freezer with three measures of crushed ice to one of salt; turn the crank until FROZEN DESSERTS 207 the mixture is frozen. When frozen, remove the dasher and beat the cream with a wooden spoon. Cover care- fully, drain off the water and replenish the ice, but add no salt. If ice is scarce, use crushed newspaper with the ice. Cover the whole with a piece of carpet. Packed with crushed ice in a fireless cooker, an ice will keep in good condition a long time. The space around the frozen mixture must be filled solidly with ice; no air spaces must be left. Delmonico Ice Cream 1 quart milk 214 cups sugar 8 eggs or 16 yolks 1 quart cream 2 tablespoonfuls vanilla extract Scald the milk over hot water. Beat the eggs, add the sugar and beat again, then cook in the hot milk, stirring constantly until the mixture coats the spoon. Add the cream and strain into the can of the freezer. When cold, add the extract and freeze. Ice Cream with Condensed Milk Mix one quart of milk, one can of condensed milk and one tablespoonful of vanilla. If the condensed milk is sweetened, no additional sugar is needed. Crush one junket tablet and dissolve it in one or two tablespoonfuls of cold water. Have the milk heated to a lukewarm temperature (less than 100° F.). Stir the tablet mixture into the milk; let stand until jellied, then freeze as usual. This makes a particularly good ice cream; the junket tablet may be omitted, but though such ice cream is good, it is not as creamy and velvety as when the tablet is used. Vanilla Ice Cream Sundae Have ready caramel or maple syrup and chopped pecan nut meats. Puta tablespoonful of the syrup in a sherbet 208 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK cup; add a generous cone of ice cream, pour on one or two spoonfuls of syrup and sprinkle with chopped nuts. This is one of the best combinations served in sundaes. Strawberry Ice Cream 1 quart milk 1 quart thin cream 1 tablespoonful cornstarch 2 boxes strawberries 2 cups sugar 2 cups sugar Juice 14 lemon Scald the milk over hot water; mix the cornstarch and sugar and stir into the hot milk; cover and let cook fifteen minutes; add the cream; let the mixture chill, then begin to freeze. Mix the hulled strawberries with the sugar and let stand an hour or more, then strain through a very fine sieve or two layers of cheese-cloth; add the lemon juice; turn into the cream mixture, which should be on the point of freezing, then finish freezing. Delicious Ice Cream 1 quart milk ¥% cup sugar 2 teaspoonfuls cornstarch % teaspoonful salt ¥% cup sugar 1 pint cream 3 eggs or 6 yolks 1 cup preserved ginger chopped fine V4 cup sherry wine Scald the milk over hot water; sift together the corn- starch and sugar and stir into the hot milk; continue stirring until the mixture thickens slightly, then let cook, stirring occasionally, for ten minutes. Beat the eggs, add the second half cup of sugar and the salt; mix and stir into the thickened milk. When the egg is “ set,” remove from the fire, and when cold add the cream and freeze. Add the ginger mixed with the wine and turn the dasher a little longer. Ice Cream & la Mexicana Put two cups of granulated sugar in a saucepan over fire and stir constantly until it is melted; add two cups FROZEN DESSERTS 209 of English walnut meats and pour into a shallow, buttered pan to harden. When perfectly cold, grate or chop fine. Crumble two dozen macaroons into fine crumbs, then toast in hot oven a few minutes. Make a rich, boiled custard of yolks of four eggs, one-half a cup of sugar and two cups of cream, then pour over the stiffly beaten whites of two eggs and let cool. To one quart of cream add one-third a cup of sugar and beat until thoroughly mixed, add to the custard, and flavor with vanilla or maraschino, then freeze. When half-frozen add the macaroon crumbs and half of the grated walnut mixture and finish freezing. Let ripen two or three hours. Sprinkle remaining grated walnuts over the cream when serving. This is the typical ice cream of Mexico, just as it is served there. Individual Baked Alaska, with Figs, etc. Cut sponge cake into pieces of a size to take, when hollowed into a case, a slice of brick ice cream. The walls of the case should be half an inch thick, and the full height about an inch and a half. Set the cake on a board about an inch thick. Put the slice of cream inside and cover with a piece of cake half an inch thick. Spread the whole with meringue, then pipe meringue on the edge above, to make a well for fruit. Meringue may also be piped on the sides if desired. Dredge the whole with granulated sugar and set into a hot oven to color the meringue slightly. Remove to a serving dish and fill in the open space above with preserved or brandied figs. Peaches, apricots or chestnuts may replace the figs. With peaches, Melba sauce (raspberry) may also be used. Meringue for Baked Alaska Take two level tablespoonfuls of sugar for each white of egg; beat the whites dry, then gradually beat in the sugar. 210 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Frozen Rice Pudding Y cup rice 6 egg-yolks 1 quart milk 34 cup sugar 34 cup sugar 1 pint cream 1 teaspoonful salt 1 pint preserved peaches Put the rice over a quick fire in a quart or more of cold water; heat quickly to the boiling point, stirring mean- while; drain on a sieve, rinsing well with cold water. Return the rice to the fire with the milk, sugar and salt and let cook until tender. Beat the egg-yolks, add the sugar, and cook in the cream, scalded over hot water, until thickened slightly; then strain over the rice. When cold, freeze as ice cream. Add the preserved peaches, cut in small pieces, soaked in brandy or maraschino and drained. Pack in a mold, cover to exclude salt water, and let stand about two hours imbedded in equal measures of salt and crushed ice. Serve with a cold sauce made of equal parts of peach marmalade, sugar syrup and ma- raschino. Rich Frozen Pudding 1 pint rich milk 114 cups cream 6 egg-yolks 1 tablespoonful vanilla 1 cup sugar 1% cups fruit soaked in Jamaica Y{ teaspoonful salt rum or sugar syrup Scald the milk in a double boiler; beat the yolks, add the sugar and salt and beat again; then cook in the hot milk until the mixture coats the spoon; add the cream and, when cold, the vanilla and freeze as ice cream. Stir the fruit —a mixture of sultana raisins, candied cherries, pineapple, etc., soaked over night as above — into the frozen mixture. Pack in a melon mold, then bury in three measures of crushed ice to one of salt. Let stand an hour or longer. Serve with whipped cream sweetened and flavored. FROZEN DESSERTS 211 Plum Pudding Glacé 3 ozs. chocolate 1 tablespoonful vanilla 4 cup sugar 1 junket tablet 4 cup boiling water 1 tablespoonful cold water 1 quart milk 1 Ib. fruit (currants, raisins, citron, 1 cup double cream French fruit), lcup sugar Syrup or wine Melt the chocolate over boiling water, add the sugar and water and stir and cook until smooth. Heat the milk, cream, sugar and vanilla to about 90° F.; stir in the chocolate mixture and the tablet, crushed and dissolved in the cold water. Let stand in a warm place until the mixture jellies, then chill and freeze. Add the fruit soaked over night in sugar, syrup or wine to cover and drained. Pack in a melon mold lined with lady-fingers. Let stand one hour or longer, packed in equal measures of salt and crushed ice. Serve with Vanilla or Wine Sauce Beat the yolks of two eggs until very light, then beat in, gradually, half a cup of powdered sugar. Stir over hot water until the mixture begins to thicken, then remove from the fire and beat until cold. Add a teaspoonful of vanilla extract or a tablespoonful of wine, and then fold into the mixture one cup of double cream, beaten until solid to the bottom of the bowl. Melba Cup Prepare a vanilla ice cream. Chill some preserved or brandy peaches, half a peach for each service. Also have ready some chilled Melba sauce. To serve, put a spoonful of the sauce in a long-stemmed glass; above this set a rounding spoonful of the ice cream; make a depression in the cream for half a peach, hollow side upwards; over this pour a spoonful of the sauce and serve at once. 212 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Melba Sauce Pour part of the juice from a can of raspberries and re- serve for sherbet or other use. With a wooden pestle press the pulp from the berries through a sieve fine enough to keep back the seeds. To a cup of this rather thick pulp add a scant three-fourths a cup of sugar (less if the berries have been sweetened) and stir over the fire until boiling. Chill before using. Peaches, Melba Style Select large choice peaches. Cut them in halves, and cook in a syrup made of sugar equal in weight to the peaches, and a cup of water to each pound of sugar. Re- move the peaches as soon as they are tender. Let the syrup cook until very thick, then add maraschino as suits the taste. Have ready a sponge cake cooked in a ring mold. Pour the cooled syrup over it, set: the chilled peaches above, and fill the hollows of the peaches with vanilla ice cream. Pour raspberry sauce over the whole. Ice Cream Fruit Sundae Prepare an ice-cream mixture that does not call for eggs — as junket or thin cream sweetened and flavored— and freeze in the usual manner. When ready to serve, put a spoonful of some variety of fruit preparation in the bottom of a glass cup; above this dispose the ice cream, finishing with more of the fruit. In their season, fresh fruits crushed and mixed with sugar are available. At other times, preserved strawberries, raspberry jam sifted to exclude the seeds, or figs stewed, sifted and sweetened, may be used. Maraschino may be added to the first two fruits and sherry to the figs, if desired. Preserved ginger (stems, in jars) chopped and mixed with the figs, makes a particularly good sundae. FROZEN DESSERTS 213 Canned Apricot Ice Cream Press one can of apricots (juice and fruit) through a sieve; add two cups of sugar and one quart of cream. Freeze as usual. Peach Ice Cream Remove skin and stones and press enough peaches through a potato ricer to make one cup and a half of pulp. Add the juice of a lemon and one cup and a fourth of sugar, and turn into the can of a freezer packed for freezing; let stand until chilled, add a pint of cream and freeze as usual. Serve with sliced peaches sprinkled with lemon juice and sugar and chilled. Ice Cream Croquettes Chop fine half a cup of blanched almonds, spread on a baking sheet and let brown in the oven. Stir occasion- ally that the nuts brown evenly; when cool they are ready to use. Dry macaroons, rolled smooth and sifted, may be used in place of the nuts, so also may sponge cake crumbs. The cake may be browned before or after being pulverized. Any variety of ice cream may be selected, but vanilla is usually chosen. Roll a large tablespoonful of the ice cream into a ball, then with a spatula turn it on a board (or plate) to a cylinder-shaped mass. Lift with the spatula to a brick mold lined with paper; put two or more croquettes into the mold, cover with a strip of waxed paper, and add other croquettes. Let stand, covered secure, half an hour or longer in a mixture of salt and crushed ice. Roll in the chopped nuts or fine crumbs while giving the finishing touches to the shapes. Serve at once with a little caramel sauce on the plate beside the croquette, or return a second time to the mold for chilling. Croquettes of vanilla ice cream rolled in sponge cake crumbs (browned in oven) are par- 214 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK ticularly good with strawberry or raspberry sauce. If a quantity are to be prepared, they may be chilled in the can of the freezer. The paper set between the layers should be quite firm. Have the mold chilled and packed before beginning to shape the croquettes. Ice Cream, Tea Room Style To serve, put a rounding spoonful of vanilla ice cream into a silver or glass cup and pour over a spoonful of marshmallow sauce and over that a spoonful of chocolate sauce. The two sauces should be kept slightly warm over warm, but not boiling, water. Marshmallow Sauce Boil three-fourths a cup of sugar and one-fourth a cup of milk, without stirring, for six minutes (until the syrup threads). Set the syrup aside to cool. When about blood heat, beat with a spoon until thick and white. Set the saucepan into boiling water and stir until thin enough to pour. Stir half a pound of marshmallows with two tablespoonfuls of water (in a double boiler) until smooth. Pour the syrup over the melted marshmallows and beat together thoroughly. Keep warm, but not hot, while in use. Chocolate Sauce Melt one cup of sugar in half a cup of boiling water; cover, and let boil two or three minutes; uncover, and let boil to 236° F., or until the syrup threads; when cool, beat to a cream; set over a dish of hot water, add a tea- spoonful of vanilla extract and two ounces (or more) of chocolate (melted) and beat until smooth and thin. Orange or Lemon Ice Boil a quart of water and a pint of sugar rapidly for fifteen minutes. Add a teaspoonful of gelatine softened FROZEN DESSERTS 215 in a few tablespoonfuls of cold water, and strain. When cool, add a cup of lemon juice, and freeze as usual. For orange ice, add a pint of orange juice and the juice of one lemon. For peach ice, use one cup and a half of peach pulp and juice, the juice of two oranges and one lemon. Apricot Bombe Glacé Press the apricots in a can through a fine sieve; add the syrup from the can, one quart of water and two cups of sugar, and stir until dissolved. Then freeze as usual. Beat one cup of cream until firm, also the white of one egg till dry; beat one-fourth a cup of sugar into the white of egg, also a teaspoonful of vanilla or orange extract, then fold in the cream. Line a two-quart melon mold with the frozen apricot mixture, turn the cream mixture into the center and cover the cream with some of the apricot mixture, filling the mold to overflow. Spread paper over the ice and press the cover in place over the paper. The paper should extend in all places beyond the mold. Pack in equal measures of salt and crushed ice. Let stand about three hours. Chill the mold thoroughly before lining it with the frozen apricots. Milk Sherbet with Decoration Mix one cup and a half of sugar with the juice of four lemons and gradually beat in one quart of rich milk. Pack and freeze at once. Serve in glass cups with a cherry and a sprinkling of chopped pistachio nuts above. Cider Frappé Turn sweet cider into the can of a freezer packed as for freezing, and freeze as ice cream. Draw off the water, repack with ice and salt, and let stand an hour or more to ripen. Serve in small glasses, or in the thin red shells of 216 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK apples from which the pulp has been taken. Only a thin shell of apple should be retained, and the inside should be brushed over with lemon juice to keep it white. Angel Parfait Boil three-fourths a cup of sugar and one-third a cup of water to 240° F. Pour the syrup, in a fine stream, on the whites of two eggs beaten dry, beating constantly mean- while. Beat occasionally until cold. Beat one cup of double cream and one cup of cream from the top of a quart jar of milk until firm. Fold the cream and one table- spoonful of vanilla extract into the meringue, turn into a mold, and pack in equal measures of salt and crushed ice. Let stand about three hours. Renew the ice and salt when needed. Caramel Parfait 4 cup sugar 1 teaspoonful salt ¥ cup boiling water 1 cup double cream 2 egg-yolks 1 cup cream from top of jar of milk Y4 cup sugar Cook the half cup of sugar to caramel; add the boiling water and let cook until the caramel is dissolved and thickened slightly. Beat the egg-yolks, add the one- fourth cup of sugar and the salt, mix thoroughly, then cook in the caramel syrup (over hot water) until the mix- ture thickens. Let become chilled. Beat the cream until quite firm throughout. Have a quart mold chilled in salt and ice. Fold the two mixtures together and turn into the mold, filling it to overflow. Cover the cream with paper and press the cover down over the paper, letting the paper emerge on all sides. Pack the mold in equal mea- sures of salt and crushed ice. Let stand about three hours. When unmolded sprinkle with blanched almonds, sliced and browned in the oven, and crushed caramel. FROZEN DESSERTS 217 Crushed Caramel Stir and cook one-fourth a cup of sugar in a saucepan over the fire until melted and of an amber color. Turn on to an oiled pan. When cold pound in a mortar or in several folds of cloth. This may be sprinkled over chocolate, vanilla or caramel ice cream. Tutti-Frutti Parfait 34 cup sugar 1 pint double cream 4% cup boiling water 1 tablespoonful vanilla 2 egg-whites 34 cup candied fruit Boil the sugar and water to 238° F.; pour the syrup in a fine stream on the whites beaten dry. When cold, fold in the cream beaten quite firm, the vanilla and the fruit, chopped fine and soaked over night in wine or sugar syrup. Drain the fruit before adding it to the other ingredients. Turn into a mold, cover secure — with paper that extends beyond the mold on all sides and the cover of the mold. Pack in equal measures of salt and crushed ice. Let stand about three hours. Renew the ice as needed. CHAPTER XV PRESERVES, JELLY, CANNED FOODS AND PICKLES Germs that cause fruit to spoil do not thrive and mul- tiply in a heavy sugar syrup or in strong acids, thus we have “ preserves,” jams, jelly and pickles. If all germs on and in food be destroyed, and all others excluded, such food may be kept for a year or longer; the process is known as canning. In making preserves, jam, marmalade and jelly, from three-fourths to a full pound of sugar is allowed to each pound of prepared material. Such articles need not be sealed in air-tight jars. In canning fruit, sugar is not a necessity; if the fruit is to be used as a compote, the quantity palatable to those who put it up is usually added. If the fruit is to be recooked in puddings or pies, it will have a fresher flavor, if it be canned without sugar and the sugar added at the time of the final cooking. Fruit juice for use in sherbets, punch or jelly should be canned without sugar. General Rule for Jelly Making Put soft fruit into a saucepan, crush with a pestle and let heat slowly. Cut apples and firm fruit in quarters, and cook in water to cover. When hot throughout or cooked tender, turn into a cheese-cloth bag and let drain. After a time press out as much juice as possible for a PRESERVES, JELLY, CANNED FOODS AND PICKLES 219 second quality of jelly. For each cup of juice take a cup of sugar. Heat the sugar in the oven; boil the juice twenty minutes; add the hot sugar. Stir until the sugar is dis- solved, then let boil and skim until a little, when tested, will jelly slightly on a cold plate: Turn into tumblers, set on a cloth in a shallow pan of boiling water. Often the mixture will jelly as soon as it boils after the sugar isadded. 218° F. is about the right degree (mea- sured on the sugar thermometer) for jellies containing apple juice. Three-fourths a cup of sugar to a cup of juice is enough for apple and crabapple jelly. A cup of sugar is often used in currant jelly, especially if a few green currants, which are no disadvantage, are used. When the jelly is cold, have rounds of paper an inch longer in diameter than the top of the glass; brush the edge of a paper with mucilage and press it over the top of the glass and close against the sides. The paper will exclude dust. If jelly is to be kept some time, set a small round of paper dipped in brandy, brandy side down, on the top of the jelly, before covering the top of the glass. In canning in an open kettle, when the food is ready, adjust the rubber to the sterilized jar, fill the jar to overflow with the boiling food, adjust the sterilized cover and at once close secure. The jar during this process should stand in a saucepan on a folded cloth saturated with boiling water. When the food is cooked in the jar, in a canner, steam cooker or similar receptacle, and is ready to be sealed, adjust the rubber, fill the jar to overflow with some of the same food cooked for the purpose in another jar, or with boiling water, or both; put on the sterilized cover, cover the receptacle and let cook from five to twenty minutes longer; then without disturbing the cover fasten secure. The time of final cooking depends 220 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK on the variety of food; five minutes will suffice for berries, while it is safer to cook corn twenty minutes. Jars, covers and all utensils used in canning are steril- ized by putting them over the fire in cold water to cover completely, gradually heating the water to the boiling point and boiling for some minutes. Put up properly, the shrinking of food to leave an empty space in the jar does not affect the keeping of the food; the air inside the jar has been sterilized. In making sweet pickles, do not cook firm melon rinds, pears, etc., too long in the syrup; long cooking in syrup withers and toughens the fruit. Heat the syrup on three successive mornings and pour over the fruit; finally reheat the fruit in the syrup and seal in cans. If such cooking will not suffice for melon rinds, cook them in boiling water first of all, taking care not to overcook. Strawberry Preserves Take equal weights of hulled and washed berries and granulated sugar; put these into a preserving kettle in layers, a layer of berries first; when the juice is well drawn out, set the dish over the fire and let the contents simmer twenty minutes after boiling begins; skim as needed; take the preserves out on plates, cover with glass — panes of .window glass answer nicely — and set the plates in the sun; stir occasionally for two days, then store in glass jars. Some berries give a darker colored pre- serve than others. The fruit and sugar mixture should not be more than three inches deep on the plates. The above recipe is the one used by an expert who puts up straw- berry preserves for sale. Miss Parloa, in Farmers’ Bulletin, No. 208, gives a similar recipe, but cooks the fruit and sugar over the fire but ten minutes after boiling is once established. PRESERVES, JELLY, CANNED FOODS AND PICKLES 221 Strawberry Jam or Marmalade Allow one pint of sugar to each quart of prepared fruit (hulled and washed). Crush the fruit, add the sugar, and mix thoroughly; let stand until the sugar is dissolved, then press through a, fine sieve; rinse the pre- serving saucepan with cold water, turn in the sifted mixture and let cook slowly, stirring frequently, about two hours. If the seeds be not objectionable, the mix- ture may be set to cook without sifting. Store as jelly. Preserved Apples Pare, quarter and core enough apples to weigh six pounds. Boil the skins in water to cover. Sprinkle three pounds of sugar over the apples, and let them stand until the sugar is dissolved; then strain the hot water from the skins over them. Let stand until cold, then strain off this syrup and heat to the boiling point and pour it over the apples. Repeat this several times, then return the whole to the fire with the juice of two or three lemons and let cook slowly until the apples are clear and transparent. Store as canned fruit. Glacéd Crabapples (Miss Reece) Select a hard, red variety of crabapples. Use only perfect fruit. For a peck of apples take five pounds of granulated sugar. Wash and wipe the fruit, leaving on the stems if desired; put the fruit and sugar in stone jars or casseroles, in layers, adding cinnamon and cassia buds to taste. Cover the jars with a buttered paper. Bake in a slow oven two and one-half hours. These may be stored as canned fruit, but will keep in earthen jars some time. 222 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Grape Conserves 3 pints grapes 2 oranges, juice only 8 cups sugar 1 pint water % Ib. raisins, seeded 1 cup English walnut meats Cook the grapes till softened; press through a sieve to exclude seeds and skins; add the other ingredients, save walnuts, and let cook twenty minutes; add the nut meats, let boil once then store as canned fruit. The pulp may be separated from the skins, cooked and pressed through a sieve to exclude seeds and then added to the skins and other ingredients. In this way the skins are retained. The grated rind of the oranges will give a higher flavored conserve. Grapefruit Marmalade Take any number of grapefruit. Allow a lemon to each three grapefruit. Cut each in quarters, then slice the quarters as thin as possible, through rind and pulp. Discard all seeds. Weigh the prepared fruit, and for each pound pour on three pints of cold water. Set aside for twenty-four hours. Let boil gently until the rind is very tender,— six hours or longer,— then set aside until the next day. Weigh the material (water and pulp), and for each pound take a pound of sugar. Let simmer until it thickens slightly on a cold saucer. Store in fruit jars or as jelly in glasses. Stir occasionally while cooking. This marmalade should be light in color. It thickens on cooling. Avoid cooking too long. Peach Preserves Boil two pounds of sugar and a pint of water five min- utes, after boiling begins, and skim carefully; add two pounds of peaches cut in halves and then pared; let cook until tender (no longer); skim out upon plates and PRESERVES, JELLY, CANNED FOODS AND PICKLES 223 drain off the juice into the syrup as fast as it appears. Boil the syrup about twenty minutes, skimming as needed. Return the peaches to the syrup; let boil up once, then store in jars. Crack a few stones and cook the meats with the peaches. Brandied Peaches Prepare peach preserves; half fill the jars containing the peaches with syrup, then add French brandy to com- plete the filling of the jars. Apple Mint Jelly Cut the apples in quarters, removing imperfections. Barely cover with boiling water, put on a cover and let cook, undisturbed, until soft throughout. Turn into a bag to drain. For a quart of this apple juice set three cups of sugar on shallow dishes in the oven to heat. Set the juice over the fire with the crushed leaves from a bunch of mint; let cook twenty minutes, then strain into a clean saucepan. Heat to the boiling point, add the hot sugar and let boil till the syrup, when tested, jellies slightly on a cold dish. Tint with green color-paste very delicately. Have ready three to five jelly glasses on a cloth in a pan of boiling water. Let the glasses be filled with the water; pour out the water and turn in the jelly. When cooled a little remove to a board or table. Plain Apple or Crabapple Jelly Make as above, omitting the mint leaves. Apple-and-Grape Jeily Take one pint or one quart, each, of apple and grape juice, prepared according to the directions given in the general rule for jelly making; boil twenty minutes, add 224 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK three-fourths a cup of sugar for each cup of juice taken and let boil to 218° F. For a more pronounced flavor of grape, take a quart of grape juice and only one pint of apple juice. Flavorings for Apple Jelly Besides mint leaves, given elsewhere, boil the thin yellow rind and the juice of one lemon with a quart of apple juice. Add a teaspoonful of vanilla to about a quart of jelly just as it is turned into the glasses. Boil two or three rose geranium leaves in the jelly and add these with the sugar. Dewberry Jelly Dewberries are not very rich in the jellying principle, and while sometimes they may produce a satisfactory jelly, it is safer to combine them with apples. To the juice from ten quarts of apples use the juice of two quarts of berries. Let boil twenty minutes, add the sugar, heated in the oven, and let boil till the mixture jellies. Use three-fourths a cup of sugar to one cup of juice. To obtain the juice, cook the apples and berries separately. Of course, the apples call for longer cooking than the berries. Probably less apples could be used, and a jelly with more of the characteristics of the dewberries would result. Blackberries and raspberries may be used in the same way; both combinations give most excellent jelly. Mint Jelly, with Green Grapes Pick green grapes from the stems; add half a cup of water to keep them from burning, cover and let simmer until tender, then drain in a bag. Reheat the juice with a bunch of mint; let simmer ten minutes; remove the mint and add a cup of sugar, made hot in the oven, PRESERVES, JELLY, CANNED FOODS AND PICKLES 225 for each cup of juice. Let boil till thick or until it jellies on a cold dish. Tint delicately with green color-paste; skim as needed and turn into hot glasses. If the mint be crushed before it is added to the juice, a stronger mint flavor is assured. : Guava Jelly Pick over, wash and pare guavas. Slice fruit and put over to boil with just enough water to cover. Simmer until fruit is soft and seeds drop from pulp. Strain over night through jelly bag. In the morning measure and add Juice of one lime to each quart of juice. Boil rapidly until juice has boiled down about one-fourth, which can be told by the lowered ring on the inside of kettle. Then add sugar, one cup for each cup of juice, and boil until it drops thick from the spoon and is ready to jell. S. B. M. Grape Juice Wash the grapes, pull them from the stems, put them, covered, over a slow fire to simmer gently, and stir oc- casionally until the grapes are softened throughout; then drain in a bag, pressing out the last of the juice if desired. Rinse fruit jars and covers in boiling water; turn the boiling juice into the jars, set on a hot folded cloth, filling them to overflow; adjust the rubbers, remove the covers from boiling water and fasten the jars secure. Or, fill the jars with the strained juice, set them on a cloth laid over a rack in a steam cooker or canner, sur- round with lukewarm water and let cook ten minutes after the water boils, then close secure with rubbers and the sterile covers. Canned Pears Cut a dozen Bartlett pears in halves, leaving the stem on one half; pare and remove the cores. Make a syrup 226 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK of one cup and a half, each, of sugar and water and the juice of one lemon; skim, put in the pears and cook until just tender, no longer. With a silver fork drop the pears into a sterilized quart jar set on a cloth in a pan of water; pour in syrup to fill the jar to overflow, adjust the rubber and the sterilized cover and tighten the jar. Peaches may be put up in a similar manner. Apples and berries for pies should be put up without sugar; berries are ready for sealing when scalding hot throughout; apples, when softened and boiling. -The main point thereafter, is to fill jars to overflow, have the covers sterilized (made hot in boiling water) and seal at once. Canning Vegetables Vegetables for canning should be fresh-gathered and used at once. Only young tender vegetables can be canned successfully. The length of time for cooking will vary a little from year to year, and depends also on the manner in which the cooking is carried out. In certain household canners the cooking is done under a heavy pressure of steam; this shortens the time of cooking. In a steam cooker the pressure of steam is less than in most canners, but is higher than when the cooking is conducted in a wash boiler fitted up with a rack on which the jars are set. Vegetables may be cooked in an open kettle and then transferred to jars, but in most cases cooking in the jars is preferable. Canned Asparagus Use only the tender portions of the stalks. Set these in the jars with the heads up; put lukewarm or cold water in the cooker; when heated to boiling, fill the jars with boiling salted water, adjust rubbers and covers and let PRESERVES, JELLY, CANNED FOODS AND PICKLES 227 cook until tender, nearly an hour; tighten the jars before removal from the kettle. Canned Peas Put the shelled peas into cans, filling the cans to the top. Set the cans on a rack, covered with a cloth, over cold or lukewarm water, and let cook until the water boils. Fill the jars with boiling water to which a tea- spoonful of salt to a quart of water has been added; adjust the rubbers and covers, but do not fasten them. Cover and let cook one hour, or until tender. Then tighten the covers and remove from the kettle; or let cool in the kettle, covered. By experimenting it is prob- able that the time of cooking may be cut down somewhat. Peas do not require as long cooking as string beans. Canned String Beans Prepare the beans as for the table, then pack into jars; set the jars into the steam cooker or other appliance, the covers beside them. Put lukewarm water into the cooker. Cover and let the jars heat gradually, then fill the jar to overflow with boiling water; again cover and let cook until the beans are right for the table; add salt — a teaspoonful to a quart — to boiling water and replenish the jars as needed; adjust the rubbers and covers and let cook about half an hour. Often two or three hours is all of cooking required. Canned Beets Cook the beets in a saucepan as for the table. When tender rub off the skins (in a saucepan of cold water) and set into jars; fill to overflow with boiling water, ad- just rubbers and covers, set the jars on folds of cloth in a steamer and let cook about fifteen minutes, then tighten covers. 228 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Canned Tomatoes For the best results put into the cans as many whole, small, peeled tomatoes as can be put in without crush- ing them; set the cans as usual on the rack in the cooker or canner with the covers beside them; let them begin to cook while other tomatoes, in pieces, are set to cook di- rectly over the fire. When the pieces are scalded through- out and the liquid boiling, use to fill the spaces between the tomatoes in the jars; add a teaspoonful of salt to each jar, adjust the rubbers and sterile covers and let cook about ten minutes longer, then seal. Avoid overcooking the tomatoes; the heat penetrates them easily. They con- tain little or no woody fibre (starch) and need but little cooking to become thoroughly sterilized. Canned Carrots Use carrots that are not overgrown; scrape, cut in halves or quarters lengthwise, or leave whole according to size. Pack them into jars; half pint or pint jars are best for home use, as in general a large quantity of carrot is not wanted at a time. Start to cook with lukewarm water in the cooker; when this boils, fill the jars with boiling water and let cook until the carrot is nearly tender enough for the table; adjust the rubbers and sterile covers and let cook about ten minutes, then seal and set aside to cool. The carrots must be watched or they will be overcooked; young carrots will cook in fifteen or twenty minutes. Canned Spinach Cook the carefully washed spinach as for the table, drain and pack into jars, filling the jars rather solidly; slowly pour in boiling water to fill the jars to overflow, adjust rubbers and sterilized covers and seal securely. PRESERVES, JELLY, CANNED FOODS AND PICKLES 229 Canned Corn In canning corn, the time may be materially shortened if only the pulp be taken, the hull being more difficult to sterilize. To prepare, score the kernels lengthwise of the ear, then with the back of the knife press out the pulp, leaving the hulls on the cob. As the pulp ex- pands greatly in cooking, the jars must be filled only two- thirds full. When cooked about an hour, stir down the corn; use one can to fill two or three others, adjust rubbers and covers loosely, and let cook another hour, then see that all are in good condition. The covers of any cans that do not need further attention may now be tightened. If covers are displaced or jars need attention, cook fifteen minutes after adjustment, then seal. Sour Gherkin Pickles Wash the cucumbers (select those of small size) and throw them into salted water to remain over night. A cup of salt to a gallon of water is a good proportion, when the pickles are to stand in it not more than twenty- four hours. Scrub and wipe the pickles and throw them into an earthen jar. Scald vinegar and pour over the cu- cumbers; cover and let stand a week or longer; much de- pends on the strength of the vinegar. When ready to store, drain off the vinegar, and, if strong, use to scald other pickles. Pack the pickles in glass fruit jars; add cloves, red peppers, mace, nasturtium and white mustard seeds. Half a cup of mixed seeds and spices is enough for a gallon of pickles. Scald a fresh supply of vinegar and pour over the pickles in the jars. Let the jars stand on a cloth wrung out of boiling water while the vine- gar is being poured into them. Fill the jars to overflow and cover as in canning fruit. The pickles will keep indefinitely. 230 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Sweet Cucumber Pickles Prepare as sour pickles, except add sugar to taste to the vinegar when scalding it. Sprinkle white and black mustard seed, pieces of horseradish, ginger root, green and red peppers through the cans. Dill Pickles Boil and skim three gallons of water, and two pounds of coarse salt. Select cucumbers from six to eight inches long. Wash and wipe them carefully, then put a layer of them in a big stone jar; one that will hold at least four gallons. Then put in a layer of grape leaves and a bunch of dill seed on the stalk. Go on in this way till the jar is full, topping it with plenty of cabbage leaves. On the very top put a large stone. Fill up with the brine, and let it stand. Quiet fermentation takes place. In about two or three weeks the cucumbers ought to be transparent, like amber, with a sub-acid flavor, which the grape leaves and dill give the cucumbers. End of the Season Pickles 2 quarts green tomatoes 1 ripe cucumber 1 quart ripe tomatoes 1% cup salt 3 heads celery 3 pints vinegar 3 red peppers 2 pounds brown sugar 3 green peppers 1 teaspoonful mustard 3 large onions 1 teaspoonful pepper 1 small cabbage Chop the vegetables, sprinkle with the salt and let stand over night. Drain thoroughly, pressing out all the liquid. Add the other ingredients and cook until trans- parent (about one hour); store as canned fruit. Cauliflower Mustard Pickle Let a fair-sized cauliflower stand, head downward, in salted water an hour; break the flowerets apart and trim PRESERVES, JELLY, CANNED FOODS AND PICKLES 231 the stems neatly. Cover with boiling water and let cook about six minutes; drain in a colander, then pack into a fruit jar. For one jar put over the fire a scant quart, of vinegar. Mix together one-fourth a cup of mustard, one-third a cup of sugar, one tablespoonful of yellow ginger, one teaspoonful of turmeric, and one tablespoonful and a half of flour; pour a little of the hot vinegar over the sea- sonings and mix to a smooth consistency, then stir into the rest of the hot vinegar; ‘stir until boiling and let simmer ten minutes; stir in one tablespoonful of olive oil and pour over the cauliflower in the jar. A tablespoonful of white mustard seed and half a tablespoonful of celery seed may be added to the jar as the cauliflower is put in. Other vegetables, as Brussels sprouts, button onions, slices of green tomato or thick slices of cucumber may be prepared by the same recipe. A mixture of several kinds of vegetables is often preferred. Pickled String Beans Select tender beans, keep them full length, but prepare otherwise as for the table. Cover with boiling water and let boil ten to fifteen minutes; drain, rinse in cold water and drain again. Pour on vinegar, scalding hot, to cover the beans. They will be ready to eat the next day. Spiced Peaches 7 lbs. peaches 1 cup water — 5 lbs. sugar 24 cup stick cinnamon 1 pint vinegar ¥ cup whole cloves Remove the skins from the peaches. Have ready a syrup made of the sugar, vinegar and water; add the spices, then add a few of the peaches with one or two cloves pressed into each; let cook a moment, turning the peaches if necessary to soften all sides. Set the peaches 232 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK in fruit jars. When all are cooked, reduce the syrup and with it fill the jars to overflow. Close the jars as in canning fruit. Pears and ripe cucumbers or musk-melon rinds may be prepared in the same way: If the cucumbers and rind are not too tender, they may be cooked first in a little boiling water; if very ripe this is unnecessary. The shape of the pieces should be kept. Sweet Pickled Prunes Wash three and one-half pounds of prunes, then let stand over night in cold water to cover. Cook in the water until nearly tender. Drain off the water, add one cup of vinegar and one pound of sugar; also, if desired, one ounce of stick cinnamon broken in pieces and half an ounce of whole cloves; let cook until boiling, then add the prunes; let cook about ten minutes, then store as canned fruit. Euchered Figs 7 Ibs. fruit 1 cup water 5 lbs. sugar 14 cup whole cloves 1 pint vinegar 24 cup stick cinnamon Make a syrup of the sugar, vinegar and water; skim and add the spices. Scald figs in the syrup on three con- secutive mornings; on the third morning put the figs in jars, boil the syrup to the consistency of molasses and pour it over them. Put the spices into the jars with the fruit. If the figs have tough skins, let cook, in boiling water, barely to cover, until tender; use the water in which they were cooked in making the syrup. PRESERVES, JELLY, CANNED FOODS AND PICKLES 233 Tomato Catsup (Canned Tomatoes) 1 can tomatoes Y% teaspoonful paprika 34 teaspoonful salt Y teaspoonful cinnamon Y% onion, grated 3 branches parsley, chopped 2 tablespoonful sugar 1 celery stalk 14 teaspoonful ground cloves V4 cup vinegar Let all simmer together until reduced to about one pint; press through a sieve, reheat and store in a can. A slice from a clove of garlic is an improvement to the catsup. CHAPTER XVI MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES Cheese Pudding with Pimiento Butter two thick (three-fourths an inch) slices of bread, put the slices together and cut them in cubes. In a buttered baking dish mix the cubes of bread with a pimiento cut in small squares, and two-thirds a cup of sliced or chopped cheese. Beat two eggs; add half a tea- spoonful of salt and two cups of rich milk; mix and turn over the bread, etc. Bake in a very moderate oven until the pudding is well puffed and the egg is set. Serve hot with green salad or cooked fruit. Welsh Rabbit 1 tablespoonful butter 2 whole eggs or 4 egg-yolks 1 lb. cheese cut in thin slices 1 cup cream, rich milk, ale or 1% teaspoonful salt tomato puree ¥% teaspoonful paprika Melt the butter, add the cheese and seasonings, and stir until melted and the curd separates from the fat; add the eggs, beaten and diluted with the liquid, and stir and cook until smooth. Serve on the untoasted side of bread toasted on but one side, or on crackers. Mexican Rabbit 1 tablespoonful butter 14 teaspoonful salt 1 green pepper cut in squares 4 yolks of eggs or 1 Ib. cheese 2 whole eggs 24 cup kornlet 24 cup tomato in small pieces MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES 235 Melt the butter; in it cook the pepper (discard the seeds) until softened a little; add the cheese, cut in thin bits, and stir constantly until melted; add the kornlet and salt and stir until well blended, then add the eggs, beaten and mixed with the pieces of tomato (canned), and stir until the mixture is hot and smooth; serve on the untoasted side of bread toasted on but one side, or on crackers. Cream Cheese, with Bar-le-Duc Split Boston or the smaller Hub butter crackers; toast or let brown in the oven. Work a cream cheese or press it through a sieve to make it light, then fold in about one-fourth its bulk of cream, plain or whipped, and a few grains of salt. Pipe the prepared cheese on the edge of the crackers and set a teaspoonful of red bar-le-duc cur- rants in the center. Serve as a part or the whole of the dessert course at luncheon or dinner. Cheese Croutons These croutons may be made of whole slices of bread one-fourth an inch in thickness, or of finger-length pieces about an inch and a half wide. The former are quite as good, when they are served with scalloped tomatoes, onions or cabbage as the chief dishes at luncheon. The latter shapes are more appropriate for use with salads or soups, when other substantial dishes have preceded or are to follow. Spread the bread with butter, cover with thin slices of American factory cheese. Set into the oven to crisp the bread slightly and partially melt the cheese. For variety sprinkle the cheese with paprika. Cheese Savory Put a cake of choice cream cheese into a bowl that has been rubbed inside with the cut-side of a clove of 236 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK garlic. To the cheese add one tablespoonful of softened butter, one teaspoonful of fine-chopped chives, half a teaspoonful of fine-chopped parsley and _ one-third a teaspoonful, each, of Worcestershire sauce and anchovy paste; add also a little salt and paprika, and mix the whole together thoroughly; then press it closely into a glass, and when very cold turn on to a plate. Serve with browned or toasted crackers, with or without plain celery or lettuce hearts seasoned with French dressing. Toasted Cheese with Pecan Meats Use small thin crackers and lay them neatly, side by side, in an earthen baking dish suitable for the table. Cut thin slices of rich cheese the shape of the crackers and about one-fourth smaller; set these in the center of the crackers; on the cheese set halves of pecan nut meats; put the dish in the oven to melt the cheese. Do not have the oven hot enough to brown the crackers. Serve on the dish with celery, apple or other sauce. Tomato Cream Toast Melt three tablespoonfuls of butter; in it cook three tablespoonfuls of flour and a scant half teaspoonful, each, of salt and pepper; then add one cup and a fourth of tomato purée (stewed tomatoes, strained) and half a cup of hot cream. Dip the edge of six slices of toast, one after another, in boiling salted water, then dip into the sauce, and remove to a serving dish. Grated cheese of any kind may be stirred and melted in the sauce if desired. Cheese Sandwiches Cut bread in slices one-quarter of an inch thick, re- move crusts and trim into small shapes; toast a delicate brown, spread lightly with a cold “ rabbit ” of any kind MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES 237 and press together in pairs. For afternoon tea these sandwiches should be very small. For chafing-dish suppers or for picnics larger sandwiches are admissible. Any soft cheese (even the common factory cheese, if it be soft enough to be creamed) may be beaten smooth with a little chilli sauce or tomato catsup and used for a sandwich filling. Cream Cheese Sandwiches Mash Neuchatel or Philadelphia cream cheese to a smooth paste and fold into it enough stiff-beaten cream to make a mixture that will flow easily through a pastry bag and tube. Spread noisette bread (entire-wheat bread made with whole filberts) with creamed butter and then with the cheese; set one or two preserved strawberries or bar-le-duc currants on the cheese and cover with a second piece of bread, spread lightly with butter and the cheese mixture. Garnish the plate of sandwiches with three or four open sandwiches. To make these, pipe a ring of the cheese mixture on toasted halves of Boston crackers, and set a preserved strawberry or currant in the center and at each side. Date Bread, Cream Cheese-and-Lettuce Sandwiches Cut the bread in thin slices and shape as desired; spread one bit of bread with butter, another bit withcream cheese; set a heart-leaf of lettuce between and press together. Chopped nuts may be stirred into the cheese. Sand- wiches containing lettuce cannot be served too promptly after making. Cold Baked-Bean Sandwich, Club Style Butter two slices of Boston brown bread; on one of these dispose a heart-leaf of lettuce holding a tea- 238 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK spoonful of cold Bernaise sauce, above the sauce set a generous tablespoonful of cold, baked beans, then another lettuce leaf and sauce; then finish with a second slice of bread, a tablespoonful of beans, a floweret of cauliflower, and a teaspoonful of the sauce over the cauliflower. Sardine or Anchovy Sandwiches Pound the flesh of the fish in a wooden bowl until smooth; if convenient, add the sifted yolks of two or more hard-cooked eggs and again pound until smooth; season with paprika salt if needed and press through a sieve; add chopped pimientos and truffles. Have ready one-fourth the measure of rich cream; beat this stiff and fold into the fish mixture; add salt and pepper as needed and use as a sandwich filling. Garnish the plate of sandwiches with three or four canapés or open sandwiches. For these toast the halves of Boston or Hub crackers; when cold, spread with the fish mixture, rounding it slightly to a dome shape; make smooth with a silver knife, and draw the knife through the center of the surface to make a design; fill this with chopped truffles and set a few bits of pimiento on the edge. Fried Oyster Sandwiches Drain and wipe the oysters dry. Dip in sifted, soft bread crumbs seasoned with salt and pepper, then in an egg beaten and diluted with three or four tablespoon- fuls of milk or water, and then again in soft crumbs. Fry to a golden brown in deep fat; drain on soft paper. Have ready slices of bread, Boston brown or graham preferred, of a size suitable to take two oysters. Spread the bread with sauce tartare or butter, put two slices together with two oysters between and serve at once. Sauce tartare is mayonnaise dressing made with a little onion juice and to a cup of which two tablespoonfuls, MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES 239 each, of chopped capers, olives, pickles and parsley have been added. Hot Chicken Sandwich, Indienne Remove the flesh from the bones of cold, stewed or roast chicken, and chop the meat, not too fine (use bowl and knife). Have ready rounds of toasted white bread; spread these with butter, and then generously with chicken and press together in pairs. When ready to serve pour over very hot chicken gravy. Serve with cabbage or celery salad or stewed cranberries. In making the sauce use one-fourth a teaspoonful of curry powder with each two tablespoonfuls of flour. The better the chicken broth for the sauce, the better the dish will be. Baking-powder biscuit, split and toasted, may replace the bread. English muffins may also be used. Spanish Toast Peel as many good-sized tomatoes as ‘there are persons to be served and cut the tomatoes in pieces; for six to- matoes add three green peppers cut in thin rings (dis- card the seeds) or chopped, and a small onion, peeled and sliced thin or chopped. Add also a tablespoonful of fine chopped parsley, a teaspoonful of salt and a dash of paprika. Let simmer until smooth and rather thick. Have ready rounds or squares of well toasted bread; spread the toast with butter, above set a spoonful of the cooked tomato, and finish each slice with a carefully poached egg. Baked Bananas Remove the peel from eight bananas and scrape the pulp, to remove coarse threads. In an agate pan melt two tablespoonfuls of butter; in this lay the bananas, pour over them half a cup of sugar, then sprinkle with 240 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK the juice of one lemon. Let bake slowly, basting occa- sionally, turning the bananas once, until the bananas are tender and the liquid quite thick and jelly-like. Both the sauce and the bananas will become quite pink in color. Slow cooking and removal from the oven when. done are essential to success. Banana Croquettes Remove skins and coarse threads from small bananas (near the top of the bunch). Scrape the bananas and cut off the ends to simulate a croquette. Roll in an egg beaten and mixed with three or four tablespoonfuls of milk, and then in soft, sifted bread crumbs. Fry in deep fat about two minutes. Serve with wine or vanilla sauce as an entrée with steak, chops and roasts of beef and lamb or as a dessert dish. Cranberry Sauce Heat two cups, each, of sugar and water to the boiling point. Add one quart of cranberries. Cover the saucepan and let stand on the back of the range five minutes; move to the front of the range and let cook five minutes after boiling begins. Set the sauce aside, covered, in the saucepan until cold. Cranberry Jelly Cook one quart of cranberries and one cup of water in a covered dish five or six minutes. With a pestle press the mixture through a fine gravy strainer (fitted into part of a double boiler). At once stir in two cups of sugar and, without reheating in the least, pour into a mold or dish. Baked Apples Remove the cores from well flavored apples. Set them in an agate dish, pour in one-fourth a cup of boil- MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES 241 ing water and let bake until tender. Dispose on a hot Serving dish. Sift powdered sugar over the tops of the apples. Set a candied cherry at the open space. Serve hot with a pitcher of cream. Stuffed Baked Apples Remove the cores from eight tart apples. Pare the apples and set them in an earthen au gratin dish ; fill the centers with orange marmalade and dredge the outside with granulated sugar. Pour a few spoonfuls of water around the apples. Let cook in the oven until the apples are tender. A few chopped nuts stirred through the mar- malade is a good change. Serve hot or cold with cream, as a breakfast or dessert dish. Slices of Orange and Lemon for Teas Cut the fruit in halves lengthwise; lay flat side down on a board and with a sharp knife cut in exceedingly thin slices. Dispose these in a glass dish, in alternate rows, orange and lemon, each half slice slightly overlapping another. Fill the center with cubes of preserved ginger or pineapple. With a smaller dish, cut in quarter rather than half slices. Serve a piece of lemon, orange and the third article in each cup of tea. The effect of the arrangement is that of a flower with petals of two colors, alternating. Salambo Cut a grapefruit in halves, crosswise. With a thin, sharp knife, cut around the pulp in each little section of the fruit so that the whole of each triangular section of pulp may be freed from the surrounding membrane and lifted out when eaten. Also cut the membrane, sepa- rating the sections and the core from the skin and remove all the membrane and the pithy center in one piece. Dis- 242 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK pose the halves of fruit in grapefruit glasses, then set a circle or wreath of red bar-le-duc currants around the center of each. Powdered sugar may be sprinkled over the fruit before the preserve is set in place, but will be superfluous for most tastes. Serve as a dessert dish. Rhubarb with Sultana Raisins Pick the stems from half a cup of sultana raisins; cover with boiling water and let cook until the raisins are tender and the water is nearly evaporated; add one pound of rhubarb cut in half-inch lengths, and about a cup of sugar; shake the dish over the fire or in the oven occa- sionally, until the rhubarb is just tender. If the stalks are tender the peeling need not be removed. More sugar may be wished by some. Cider Jelly 14 package gelatine Y% cup sugar (scant) Y4 cup cold water 114 cups sweet cider Soften the gelatine in the cold water and dissolve by setting the dish into hot water; add the sugar, and when dissolved and cooled somewhat add the cider. Turn three-fourths of the jelly into a mold and the rest into a bowl. When the mold of jelly is ready to serve, beat the jelly in the bowl with a fork or beater and dis- pose it around the unmolded jelly. Mint Jelly with Gelatine Y{ package gelatine Y% teaspoonful salt 44 cup cold water : V4 teaspoonful paprika 1 cup granulated sugar 34 cup mint leaves 1 cup vinegar Green color-paste Soften the gelatine in the cold water. Boil the sugar and vinegar five or six minutes, add the softened gelatine; MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES 243 the salt, paprika, mint leaves chopped fine, and color- paste to tint as desired. Stir in ice and water until the mixture begins to thicken (that the mint may not settle); turn into small molds and set aside to become firm. When turned from the molds, garnish with the tips from fresh stalks of mint. , Use of Bag and Tube Fix the tube in place; roll outward the upper part of the bag so as to put the mixture just above the tube with- out smearing the sides of the bag. Fill the bag about one- third full. With the right hand carefully twist the bag above the mixture, guide the tube with the left hand, and force out the mixture by continuing the twisting, at the same time using pressure with the right hand. To form a star, hold the bag in vertical position and press out a sufficient quantity of the mixture. Separate the tube from the material by pressing the tube downward slightly and raising it quickly. For other designs hold the bag at other angles, between the vertical and a hori- zontal position. Uses for Canned Pimientos Pimientos should always be rinsed in cold water and dried before use. Pimientos may be added in small bits to almost any salad or “‘ made” dish, being appropriate with meats, fish, vegetables or fruit. They are a good addition to almost any sandwich preparation. They may be added, in bits, to dressings for stuffing fowl, veal, fish, tomatoes, etc.; to creamed chicken, fish or vegetables; to hashed meats and vegetables; to an omelet or to scrambled eggs; to cheese, pudding or rabbits; or to a dish of rice, macaroni or hominy. They are good in creamed potatoes. 244 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK Lemon Fizz 6 lemons, juice of all 1 cup sugar Grated rind of 3 lemons Y% cake compressed yeast 2 quarts boiling water 1 cup lukewarm water Pour the water over the lemon juice and rind, add the sugar, cover closely and let stand until lukewarm; add the yeast cake softened in the lukewarm water, and cover and let stand over night. Next morning bottle and tie down the cork; set aside in a cool place. It is ready to use in one day. It will effervesce when poured out. Cracker Jack 2 cups granulated sugar 2 tablespoonfuls butter 2 tablespoonfuls molasses About two quarts of popped corn Stir and cook the sugar to caramel, add the molasses and butter. Have the corn in a wide shallow pan; pour the candy over it to cover the corn. Set away to harden, then break into irregular shaped pieces. Fig Paste Confections (Luncheon or Dinner Sweet) Boil half a pound of figs in a cup of water in a covered dish, watching them closely to avoid burning. When soft, press them with a pestle through a rather coarse purée sieve. Add one pound and a half of powdered sugar, mix thoroughly, and let cook in a double boiler, uncovered, until the mixture becomes a stiff paste, then turn into a dish and set aside to become cold. When cold, cut into small pieces, and roll them on a board dredged with confectioner’s sugar into balls, and press the balls flat, to make thin, round cakes about an inch and a half in diameter, completely covered with the sugar. Pack in boxes with plenty of sugar between the layers. MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES 245 Caramels a la Mexicana Put one cup of granulated sugar in an iron skillet and stir constantly over a slow fire until the sugar is melted. As soon as the sugar becomes syrup, add half a cup of water, stir and cook until the caramel is a smooth syrup, then add one cup of rich milk or cream. Add next one cup, each, of granulated and light brown sugar, and boil steadily until mixture forms a soft ball when tested in cold water. Take from the fire, add one cup of coarse chopped nut meats and stir to creamy consistency. Pour into shallow pans lined with paraffine paper, spread smoothly about half an inch in thickness and mark into squares while warm. Fruit-and-Nut Caramel Fudge Stir three cups of sugar and one cup of thin cream over the fire until the sugar is melted. Then boil without stirring to the soft ball stage. At the same time stir one cup of sugar over the fire until it becomes caramel. Pour the first mixture into the caramel and let boil up once. Take from the fire and beat until thick, adding, at the last, half a cup of citron, candied cherries, pineapple, and plums cut fine, and one cup of pecan nut meats. Crystallized Apricots 1 package gelatine ¥ cup boiling water 1 cup cold water Juice 1 lemon 2 cups granulated sugar 34 cup apricot purée Soften the gelatine in the cold water. Boil the sugar and boiling water as in making boiled frosting to 238° F. on the sugar thermometer. Add the gelatine, lemon juice and apricot purée (cooked apricots pressed through a sieve). Stir over ice water until the mixture begins 246 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK to thicken, then turn from a pitcher or through a funnel into depressions made in a box filled with cornstarch. Let stand in a cool place some hours, then pick from the depressions, brush off the loose starch and brush the surface with a little water in which a little gum arabic has been dissolved, or with white of egg; then roll in gran- ulated sugar and set on waxed paper to dry. Candied Orange or Grapefruit Peel Cut the peel, removed from the fruit in quarter sections, in strips of uniform thickness. Let cook in boiling water until very tender. The dish should be large of surface to keep the pieces whole. Set aside until the next day. Take the original weight of the peel in sugar with enough water from the peel to dissolve it (half its weight). Boil and skim; add the peel and let cook until the syrup is nearly absorbed; when cooled a little, pick out the strips of peel and roll them, one by one, in granulated sugar. Let dry on table oilcloth. Store in closed glass receptacles. If the peel becomes hard, simmer in a little hot syrup — a few pieces at a time — until soft, then again roll in granulated sugar. Candied Pansies, Mint Leaves, etc. Set an ounce of gum arabic and half a cup of cold water over the fire in a double boiler and stir while melting. When cold, use in brushing over the leaves, petals or blos- soms. If flowers are used, the stems must be covered with the solution, as also both sides of leaves and petals. Let dry on table oilcloth. More gum arabic may be added, if the mixture be too thin to dry well. Make a syrup of half a cup of water and one cup of sugar. Let boil to 234° F. When cold, dip into it the prepared articles and dredge with granulated sugar on both sides. MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES 247 Crystallized Fruit Stone cherries. Remove hard center and outside and cut pineapples in slices. Let cook in boiling water until tender. For a pound of drained fruit, cook one pound and a quarter of sugar, and a cup of the water in which the fruit was cooked to the soft ball stage (238° F.). Remove from fire and pour over the fruit, set in a shallow dish. The syrup should cover the fruit. Re- turn to the fire and let boil once. Set aside until next day. Drain on a sieve. To the syrup add half a cup of sugar and again cook to 238° F. Put in the fruit, let boil once and set aside over night. Repeat this process three times, adding half a cup of sugar each time. The fruit by this time will probably have taken up all the syrup it will absorb. Let dry off a little and store in glass, tight-closed. Pineapple in slices may need to be reheated in the syrup four or five times. Each variety of fruit should take up all the syrup possible. Where fruit is candied in large quantity, shallow trays provided with wire screens to keep the fruit under the syrup are used. Salted Filberts or Hazel Nuts Boil the shelled nuts in water about five minutes, drain, add cold water and slip off the skin. Let dry a little, then moisten each with white of egg slightly beaten, sprinkle with salt and let color very delicately in the oven. Viscogen Viscogen is a solution of lime in sugar; it is used to thicken thin cream; as viscogen contains nothing but lime, sugar and water, it is harmless. One-fourth a tea- spoonful is used to three-fourths a cup of cream. To make viscogen, dissolve five ounces of sugar in ten ounces of 248 THE AMERICAN COOK BOOK water. Slake two ounces of quick lime in six ounces of cold water; strain to remove unslaked particles of lime; combine the two liquids and shake occasionally for two hours. After three or four hours set the mixture aside to settle, then pour off the clear liquid. Store in small bottles. Use a glass stopper. Exposed to the air viscogen darkens quickly and loses its strength. INDEX Atmonps, DrEviuep, 10. Anchovy Butter, 50. Apples, Baked, 240. Preserved, 221. Stuffed Baked, 241. Apricots, Crystallized, 245. Artichokes, French, 108. French, Boiled, 109. Jerusalem, 108. Jerusalem, au Gratin, 108. Jerusalem, with Meat, 108. Asparagus, Canned, 226. Sprew, 107. Bacon, WITH FrrED BANANAS, 97. Banana Croquettes, 240. Bananas, Baked, 239. Bavarian Cream, Apricot, 202. Bean Croquettes, Boston Baked, 116. Beans, Baked, Boston, 115. Baked, Curry of, 116. Baked, New York, 117. Baked, Spanish, 115. Lima, Baked, 114. Lima, in Cream, 114. String, Canned, 227. String, Spanish, 114. String, Pickled, 231. String, with Cheese, 113. String, with Mafttre d’Hoétel Butter, 113. Beef, Corn, Pressed, 79. Fillet of, 74. Frizzled, 80. Loin Roast of, 73. Beefsteak Chowder, 79. Beef Stew, 78. Beets, Canned, 227. Biscuit, Almond, 156. Baking Powder, 148. Brookline, 143. Maple Sugar and Nut, 149. Sour Cream, 149. Bismarck Rings, 145. Bombe Glacé, Apricot, 215. Bouillon, Clam, 13. Jellied, 15. Bread, Bran, 140. French, 140. Graham, 137. One Loaf Date, 139. Raisin, 139. Rye Meal, 138. Salt-Rising, 140. Southern Corn, 150. Sweet Rye, 138. Two Loaves Entire Wheat, 137. Two Loaves of White, 137. Brod Torte, German, 162. Broth, Clam, Chantilly Style, 13. Formula for, 12. Brown Betty, 192. Brussels Sprouts, 98. Buns, Hot Cross, 143. Philadelphia Butter, 144. Butter, Anchovy, 6. Mattre d’Hétel, 39. CABBAGE, STEWED, 106. au Gratin, 107. Cake, Angel, 156. Bride’s, 159. Chocolate, 164. Chocolate Cream, 165. Chocolate Fudge, 166. Chocolate Nougat, 166. Cocoanut, 161. Date Loaf, 163. Devil’s Food, 164. German Apple, 151. Graham Cracker, 161. Maple Syrup, 157. Nut, 160. One-Egg Chocolate, 163. Orange, 161. Park Street, 158. 250 Cake, Spanish, 159. Sponge, 155. White, 160. Cakes, Blitzen Kuchen, 167. Five O’clock Cream, 172. Ginger Ball, 171. Honey, 168. Little Christmas, 167. Little Pound, 166. Rice, 153. Canapés, Anchovy, 6. Anchovy and Egg, 6. Horseradish, 7. Pimiento, 7. Sardine, 5. Candied Orange Peel, 246. Pansies, 246. Canning Vegetables, 226. Caramel, Crushed, 217. Caramels & la Mexicana, 245. Carrots, Canned, 228. Catsup, Tomato, 233. Cauliflower, Baked, 111. Mattre d’Hotel, 111. Caviare, Mobile Style, 7. Charlotte Russe, Chocolate, 204. Coffee, 203. with Jelly Roll, 205. Cheese, Cream, with Bar-le-Duc, 235. Toasted, with Pecan Meats, 236. : Savory, 235. Chestnuts, Purée of, 98. Chicken, Broiled, 61. Curry of, 65. Hot Mousseline of, 65. Maryland, 61. Panned, 62. Péeled, 61. Roasting, 60. Scalloped, 68. Stewed, 63. en Casserole, 63. Croquettes, 68. Pie, Biscuit Crust, 64. Timbales, 67. Chili Con Carne, 77. China Chilo, 84. Chops, Lamb, & la Diable, 84. Lamb, Breaded and Baked, 84. Chowder, Beefsteak, 79. INDEX Chowder, Clam, 25. Clam, No. 2, 26. Kornlet, 25. Clams, Scalloped, 58. Cocktail, Crabflake, Pepper Cups, 3. Grapefruit, 2. Orange-and-Strawberry, 2. Cocktails, Clam and Oyster, 2. Codfish, Creamed, Salt, 50. Fresh, Fried, New Hampshire, 45. Cakes en Surprise, 50. Conserves, Grape, 222. Consommé, with Poached Eggs, 15. Cookies, Drop, 168. Honey, 170. Oatmeal Drop, 169. Quick, 168. Walnut, 169. Corn, Canned, 229. Canned, Pudding, 106. Green, Oyster, 105. Corn Pudding, 105. Crab Ravigote, 58. ‘Crabapples, Glacéd, 221. Cracker Jack, 244. Crackers, Deviled, 10. Croquettes, Baked Beans, 116. Banana, 240. Canned Salmon, 48. Chicken, 68. Finnan Haddie, 52. Ham, 94. Hominy, 118. Rice, 118. Sausage, 96. Croustades of Fruit, 197. Croutons, Cheese, 235. Crullers, Orange, 172. Crusts with Bananas, Raisins and Pears, 196. Cup, Melba, 211. Custard, Boiled, 197. Cutlets, Tenderloin, 77. Veal, Pojarski, 87. in Green Dessert, Apricot, 197. Pineapple, 203. Doughnuts, 171. Dressing, Boiled Salad, 123. INDEX Dressing, Bread, 82. French, 120, 121. Mayonnaise, 122. Nicoise, 122. Roquefort Cheese Salad, 122. Russian Salad, 121. for Romaine Salad, 123. Duckling, Roast, 70. Dumpling, Baked Apple, 189. Dumplings, 86. Apple, 189. Rolled Apple, 189. Ecuairs, SARDINE, 9. Egg-Plant, Broiled, 109. Stuffed, 109. Eggs, Canada Style, 28. Chaudfroid of Poached, 8. Opera, 31. Poached, 27. Poached, & la Benedict, 28. Poached, Lydia Style, 31. Poached, ‘‘ Times Square,” 30. Poached; with Spinach, 29. Shirred, 28. Stuffed, 8. Stuffed, au Gratin, 34. a l’Aurore, 33. & la Dauphine, 30, & la Grant, 37. en Surprise, 200. and Onions, au Gratin, 33. and Onions in Cream Sauce, 32. Baked in Potato Nests, 29. Baked with Cheese, 32. Cooked in the Shell, 27. Scrambled in Double Boiler, 36. Fic Pasts Conrections, 244. Fig Whip, 195. Figs, Euchered, 232. Filling, Butter-scotch, 182. Cream Cake, 184. English Cream, 158. Orange, 161. Fingers, Nuremberg, 171. Finnan Haddie, Dinner Style, 51. & la Delmonico, 51. Croquettes, 52. Fish, Baked, Bluefish or Shad, 41. 251 Fish, Broiled, 39. Creamed, en Cocotte, 48. Fillets of, with Oysters, 46. Timbales, 46. Fizz, Lemon, 244. Flounders, Fried, Cheese Sauce, 45. Frappé, Cider, 215. Fritters, Sweet Corn, 62. Frosting, Chocolate, 160. Chocolate Fudge, 162. Confectioner’s, 185. Confectioner’s Chocolate, 158. Maple Syrup, 157. Marshmallow, 165. Mocha, 162. Nut Caramel, 175. Ornamental, 159. Plain Boiled, 166. Trilby, 175. for One Egg Cake, 164. Fruit, Crystallized, 247. Fudge, Fruit-and-Nut Caramel, 245. GINGERBREAD, NUREMBERG, 170. Goose, Roast, 69. Grape Juice, 225. Griddlecakes, Bread Crumb, 152. Sour Cream, 152. with Sour Milk, 152. Guinea Fowl, Baked, 62. Halibut Sauté, 44. Ham, Boned, 92. Ham, Cold, Mousseline, 93. Jellied, 94. Croquettes, 94. Réchauffée, 94. Soufflé, 93. Hamburg Roast, 75. Hash, Corned Beef, 80. Hominy Croquettes, 118. Hors d’ceuvres, Italian Style, 1. Scandinavian, 1. “Hot Pot,” 81. Icz, ORANGE or Lemon, 214. Ice Cream, Baked Alaska, 209. Canned Apricot, 213. . Croquettes, 213. Delicious, 208. Delmonico, 207. Fruit Sundae, 212. 252 Ice Cream, Peach, 213. Strawberry, 208. Tea Room Style, 214. Vanilla, 206. Vanilla Sundae, 207. & la Mexicana, 208. with Condensed Milk, 207. Icing, Cream, for Cake, 165. Fluffy Caramel, 175. Jam, STRAWBERRY, 221. Jelly, Apple Mint, 223. Apple-and-Grape, 223. Aspic, for Poached Eggs, 10. Cider, 242. Claret, with Plums, 198. Cranberry, 240. Cucumber, 128. Dewberry, 224. Flavorings for Apple, 224. Guava, 225. Making, General Rule, 218. Mint, 242. Mint, with Green Grapes, 224. Raisins Molded in Wine, 199. Rhubarb-and-Raisin, 198. Tomato, 128. ~ Koxtrasi av Gratin, 106. Kugelhopf Kuchen, 146. Lapy Fineers, 157. Lamb, Leg of, Boned, 82. Lamb Chops, 4 la Diable, 84. Breaded and Baked, 84. Liver, Calf’s, Braised, 89. Calf’s, Hashed, 90. Loaf, Canned Salmon, 49. Lobster, Broiled, 56. Lobster & la Creole, 56. Lobster-and-Halibut en Casserole, 56. MacaRonl IN CREAM Sauce, 118. Mackerel, Baked, Essex Style, 43. Fresh, Baked, Creole Style, 42. Salt, Baked with Cream, 43. Maftre d’Hétel Butter, 39. Marguerites, 156. Marmalade, Grapefruit, 222. Medallions, Anchovy, 6. INDEX Meringues, Almond, 173. Almond, with Strawberries, 174, 201. Mexican Rabbit, 234. Mixed Grill, 85. Muffins, Blueberry, 150. Bran, 151. Cornmeal, 150. Graham, 150. Mutton, Boiled Leg of, 83. “Hot Pot,” 81. Napo.teons, 184. Nuts, Salted, 247. Oxra, Stewep, 110. Omelet, French, with Chicken, 35. Puffy, with Oysters, 35. Rice, 36. Spanish, 34. Onions and Eggs, au Gratin, 33. Stuffed, 113. Stuffed with Sausage, 112. Orange and Lemon for Teas, 241. Oyster Filling for Patties, 54. Stew, 53. Oysters, Broiled, 53. Fried, 54. Green Peppers Stuffed with, 55. Lansdale, 55. Poached, on the Half-shell, 53. Poulette Style, 54. Parrait, ANGEL, 216. Caramel, 216. Tutti-Frutti, 217. Paste, Puff, 177. Pastry, Flaky, 177. Patties, Adelaide, 69. Peach Gateau, 197. Preserves, 222. Peaches, Brandied, 223. Melba Style, 212. Spiced, 231. Pears, Canned, 225. Peas, Canned, 227. Pepper Pot, Every Day, 18. Peppers, Green, Stuffed, 112. Pfeffer Nuesse, 174. Philadelphia Scrapple, 97. Pickles, Cauliflower Mustard, 230. Dill, 230. INDEX Pickles, End of the Season, 230. Sour Gherkins, 229. : Sweet Cucumber, 230. Pie, Blueberry, with Meringue, 180. Butter-scotch, 182. Cherry, 181. Chicken, Biscuit Crust, 64. Cream, 157. Crust, 176. Lemon Sponge, 179. Mock Mince, 180. Pumpkin, 182. Raisin, 181. Sour Cream, 181. Pig, Sucking, Roasted, 91. Pilau a la Turque, 66. Popovers, Whole Wheat, 148. Pork, Roast Spareribs, 90. Shoulder of, Roasted, 90. Pot Roast, 75. Potage 4 l’Aurore, 17. Potatoes, French Fried, 101. Grilled, 102. Hashed Brown, 102. Lyonnaise, 102. 4 la Brabanconne, 101. and Onions, Escaloped, 101. Cooked in Milk, 102. Preserves, Strawberry, 220. Prunes, Stewed, Stuffed with Nuts, 202. Sweet Pickled, 232. Pudding, Baked Rice-and-Milk, 193. Baked Tapioca, 193. Bread, Viennoise, 192. Canned Corn, 106. Cheese, with Pimiento, 234. Chocolate Batter, 194. Corn, 105. Delmonico, 192. English Plum, 187. Frozen Rice, 210. Plum, Glacé, 211. Rich Frozen, 210. Steamed Blackberry, 188. Puff Paste, 177. Purée of Tomato, Julienne, 14. Rassrtr, LARDED, Baxkep, 70. 4 la Marengo, 71. Relish, Celery, No. 1, 3. 253 Relish, Celery, No. 2, 4. Rhubarb with Raisins, 242. Rice, Spanish Style, 117. Croquettes, 118. Rolls, Potato, 142. Quick Yeast, 141. Soufflé, 144. Turkish, 142. Roulettes, Sardine, 5. SALAMBO, 241. Salmon, Canned, Croquettes, 48. Salmon, Canned, Loaf, 49. Cutlets, Pojarski, 49. Steamed, 41. Timbales, 47. Salsify, Melted Butter, 110. Sandwich, Cold Baked Bean, 237. Hot Chicken, 239. Sandwiches, Cheese, 236. Cream Cheese, 237. Date Bread, 237. Fried Oyster, 238. Sardine, 238. Salad, Apple-and-Pimiento, 134. Baked Beans-and-Tomato, 125 Cabbage, 130. Cauliflower-and-Beet, 129. Chicken, 133. Cucumber-and-Pimiento, 128. Date-and-Banana, 134. Egg, Aurore, 131. Egg-and-Tomato, 126. Endive-and-Prune, 135. Fin de Siécle, 131. Grapefruit-Orange-and-White- Grape, 134. Lima Bean, 124. Lima-and-Black Bean, 124. Lobster, 133. Napolitaine, 133. 1912,” 127. Pimiento-and-Cheese, 131. Potato, 129. Potato for Thirty, 130. Prune-and-Pecan-Nut, 135. Romaine, 123. Salmon, 132. Shrimp, 132. String Bean, 124. Stuffed Tomato, 126. Tomato-and-Onion, 127. 254 Salad, Tomato Jelly-and-Asparagus, 127. Tomato Jelly-and-Baked Bean 125. Yvette, 132. Sardines, Broiled, 52. Deviled, 4. for Hors d’ceuvre Service, 4. with White Sauce, 52. Sauce, Anchovy, 40. Bernaise, 73. Blackberry Hard, 188. Blackberry Liquid, 189. Bread, 34. Brown Chaudfroid, 9. Chaudfroid, 9. Cheese, 45. Chocolate, 214. Cranberry, 240. Drawn Butter, 46. Frozen Brandy, 188. Giblet, for Roast Fowl, 60. Half-Glaze, 38. Hard, 188. Hollandaise, 28. Hot Marshmallow, 191. Italian, 42. Madeira, 30. Marshmallow, 214. Melba, 212. Mock Hollandaise, 41. Mornay, 30. Oyster Cocktail, 3. Sabayon, 194. Soubise Tomate, 96. Tomato, for Meats, 75. Vanilla, 211. Vinaigrette, 121. Wargrave, 85. White, One Cup, 29. Yellow, 194. for Tapioca Pudding, 194. Sausage, Broiled, 95. Croquettes, 96. with Fried Cereal, 96. Sausages, 95. & la Portland, 95. Baked, 97. Scallops, Baked in Shells, 57. Fried, 58. & la Brestoise, 57. apple, Philadelphia, 97. INDEX Scrod, Broiled, 40. Sherbet, Milk, 215. Shortbread, Scotch, 173. Shortcake, Apricot, 191. Blackberry, 190. Soufflé, Dried Apricot, 196. Nut-and-Raisin, 195. Soup, Bisque of Clams and Green Peas, 24. Black Bean, 19. Celery, 16. Cream of Asparagus, 23. Cream of Cauliflower, 24. Cream of Celery, 20. Cream of Lobster, 21. Cream of Oyster, 23. Cream of Potato, 22. Cream of Salsify,”23. Cream of String Bean, 21. Economical Rice, 14. Giblet, 4 l’Anglaise, 18. Kornlet, 22. Lamb-and-Tomato, 16. Lima Bean, 20. Mulligatawney, 18. Onion au Gratin, 17. Tapioca, 16. Tomato, 14. Tomato Bisque, 20. Spaghetti 4 la Mexicana, 119. for Cutlets, 78. Spinach, Canned, 228. Sponge, Banana, 199. Pineapple, 200. Squash, Summer, Fried, 107. Steak, Round, en Casserole, 76. Sirloin, Tivoli, 72. Swiss, 76. Stew, Beef, 78. Oyster, 53. Stuffing, Bread, 92. Succotash, 111. Plymouth, 80. Sweetbreads, Mock, with Purée, 88, Syrup, Honey, 153. Tart, Mar.Boro, 183. Tarts, Cranberry, 183. Sand, 171. Strawberry, 183. Timbales, Chicken, 67. Fish, 46. Timbales, Salmon, 47. Tomato, 37. Toast, Spanish, 239. Tomato Cream, 236. Wellesley, 147. Tomato Creole, 104. Timbales, 37. Tomatoes, Broiled, 103. Canned, 228. Scalloped, 103. ala St. Jacques, 103. and Corn, Scalloped, 104. and Corn, Stewed, 104. Tripe, Baked, 81. Broiled, 81. Trout, Brook, au Bleu, 40. Fillets of Sea, Baked, 43. Tuna au Gratin, 49. Turkey, Jellied, 67. Roasting, 60. INDEX 255 Use or Bae aNnp Tuss, 243. Uses for Pimientos, 243. VEAL BALLS, 87. Brown Fricassée of, 86. Cutlets, Pojarski, 87. Loaf, 89. Pot Pie, 86. Venison with Chestnut Purée, 98. Viscogen, 247. Warers, Oat-Fiake, 173. Poinsettia, 169. Waffles, Sour Cream, 152. Welsh Rabbit, 234. ZABAIONH, 198. By the Same Author Sataps, SaNpwicnes, and Cnarine-Disn DarntTIEs Practica, Cooking aND SERVING Tue Up-ro-pate Waitress Book or Entries Cooxine ror Two aie Ae PSE Depa vies Hanae eee Oye Ree ee Stati Shia ats igs 4 autre i a re Soe Pacnea aati STs ii ae ee read setts! = ee s rf rt See ee i ce wi i a cat tt ts ea + a sis iF ie Past ty ne ig = oo oes Sree Soe