LIBRARY OF THE NEW YORK STATE COLLEGE OF HOME ECONOMICS CORNELL UNIVERSITY ITHACA, NEW YORK Breakfast Table, First Course asinod puodas ‘aiqey, ysejyeoig ——— aS asino7 yseT ‘o[qey yseyyeorg MRS RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK A MANUAL OF HOUSEKEEPING By SARAH TYSON RORER Author of Mrs. Rorer’s Philadelphia Cook Book, Canning and Preserving, Bread and Bread Making, and other valuable works on cookery; Principal of Philadelphia Cooking School & PHILADELPHIA ARNOLD AND COMPANY 420 Sansom STREET nein. 591. Copyright r902 by SARAH Tyson RoreR All Rights Reserved —& Made at the Sign of the Ivy Leaf in Sansom Street Philadelphia George H Buchanan Company PREFACE IN active teacher and a constant student must in twenty years collect and accumulate a vast <5) amount of knowledge; in fact, too much to be embodied in a single book. I have no apology to offer for the appearance of a new book on Domestic Science, especially this one. It Tepresents on paper The School at its period of highest development, and the results of hard work of the best years of my life. Please read carefully each chapter of instructions preceding the recipes, for herein lies the great value of the work. I have not compiled a recipe book, but have made a complete new book telling the things one needs to know about cooking, living, health, and the easiest and best way of housekeeping. It is a book of general household knowledge. A great change in the methods of living has taken place in America during the last few years. There was a time in the memory of teachers yet quite young when schools of cookery were places where persons were taught to make all sorts of fancy, odd and occasionally used dishes. In fact, to succeed with these elaborate dys- peptic-producing concoctions was the highest ambition. All this has now changed: the teacher or cook book 3 4 PREFACE (an ever present teacher) that does not teach health, body building, and economy in time and money, is short lived. There are still a few women who do elaborate cooking to please the palate and appetite, and the general habits of people. They are still in the palate stage of existence. Strive to reach a higher plane of thought— eat to live. Why should any woman be asked to stand for hours over a hot fire mixing compounds to make people ill? Is this cookery? Is the headache that follows a food debauchery more pleasant or pardon- able or less injurious than that which follows drink ? Results of intemperance are identical. Simple living and high thinking have the approval of learned men and women, but, like all temperance questions, depend so much upon habit, education and palate that progress must be slow; but there is no better stimulant to the enthusiastic worker than slow progression—the constant but regular improvement. It has been fifteen years since I published my first book ; during this time I have seen the art progress from “fancy cookery” to the highest type of Domestic Sci- ence. It has found a permanent place in the curriculum of our public schools, where it has been most valuable as a means of mental and moral training as well as useful for the individual in home keeping or obtaining a liveli- _ hood, all of which tend to and aid in the development PREFACE 5 of industries. To fit students for living should be the main object of public education. I believe that every woman should know how to housekeep. Giving up entirely the moral influence of a good meal, I believe that all women should learn to cook as an aid to higher education. Cookery puts into practice chemistry, biology, physiology, arithmetic, and establishes an artistic taste. And if our motto is, “ Let us live well, simply, economically, healthfully and artisti- cally,” we have embraced all the arts and sciences. CONTENTS PREFACE . CHEMISTRY OF Foops KitcHEN CALENDAR Proper Seasons for Diteient Peads METuops oF CooKING Soups : Thick, Nutritious Soups i Soups with Milk Soups from White Stock Chicken Soups Gumbos of Okra and Filée Mutton Soups Fish Soups Chowders FisH ‘ - Odd Dishes of Fish Frogs Crustacez Mollusks MEatTs Beef Mutton Veal Pork PouLTRY GAME STUFFINGS MEat SAUCES CaRVING SERVING 6 PAGE 17 26 33 47 63 77 81 83 86 92 95 106 113 114 123 135 140 163 172 181 186 204 212 214 231 239 CONTENTS Eccs MILK Cream Butter Cheese VEGETABLES : . Starchy Vegetables Italian Pastes : Starchy Vegetables, also Commins Sia ; Succulent Vegetables Containing a Little Starch and Sugar Vegetables Containing Ritoxen aie Starch Vegetables Containing Nitrogenous Matter with- out Starch or Sugar . ‘ Vegetables Containing Sugar, No Sees Green or Succulent nee Salad Plants A Few Edible Weeds F Plants Used as Seasonings and ileyarie Spices Flavorings SALADS : Dinner Salads Luncheon, Supper and Biedeneibn Bulads Fish Salads CEREAL Foops BREAD Small Beside The Second Cooking of Be Baking Powder Breads Sour Milk and Soda Breads Quick Breads with Eggs Unleaven Breads Nuts ‘ ; ' ’ ‘ ' ; PAGE 247 259 267 268 271 277 283 300 311 317 323 338 349 361 422 424 426 431 436 439 448 457 467 474 487 501 505 507 514 515 518 522 8 CONTENTS SERVING OF FRUITS : Sub-acid and Dried Fruits Pastry DEssERTS Cold Pudenge Plain Desserts Simple Hot Puddings, Cantatas Pew or Milk Desserts, Flavored with Chocolate Desserts without Eggs or Milk Apple Desserts, Few Containing Eggs or Milk ‘ Frozen Desserts ‘ j 2 Puppinc SAUCES CAKES Fillings CANDIES BEVERAGES Fruit Punches : JELLY MAKING AND PRESERVING Jelly Making Preserving Canning . \ Canning Vegetables ‘ s i Tas_e WalIrtING, oR How To TRAIN THE Wines A PLea FOR THE LITTLE DINNER . SERVING DINNER WITHOUT A Ma . JEWISH RECIPES SPANISH RECIPES CREOLE RECIPES Hawaiian RECIPES . ‘ ‘ PAGE 542 549 551 558 558 568 571 581 584 588 600 607 613 626 628 634 638 640 642 644 647 650 653 664 667 670 680 685 691 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Alaska Baked Ice Cream Apple Salad in Apple Cups Baked Onions i . Baked Potato Bean Cutter Beef Bird’s Nest Boiled Fish Boiled Spinach Boned Chicken in jally; Cold Bread Patties and Pattie Cutters Breakfast Table, first, second, third courses Brown Stew of Beef Café Parfait Cherry Salad Cherry Stoner Chicken en Casserole é Chicken Cut for Stewing or Fricassee Chicken Salad Chinese Tea Basket : Chuck Rib Roast, Cut for Codkine’ Cod Fish Balls ‘ Coffee Cake Corn Meal Loaf Croquette Mold Cutting Beef for Hamburg Steals Duck or Goose . s Duck Trussed Ready for Baldas Eggs Brouilli ‘ : Egg Soft Boiled in Egg Cup Eggs in Tomato Sauce Farmhouse Apples ‘ F 5 Fish, : . . . ‘ . . Frontispiece Facing 602 450 402 286 350 140 250 98 402 236 178 146 602 450 648 188 194 458 634 140 98 620 494 50 156 236 200 250 250 250 590 238 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS French Bread Pans French Bread Pans, Russian ioe French Coffee Pot ._ French Floating Island Fringed Celery Frozen Pudding with Compote ‘of Orauges Fruit Cannelons ; ‘ : : Frying Basket Frying Pan : Gas Stove Showing Theraiometer or = Tadicator z Gas Stove Baking and Broiling German Potato Bread : Group of Inexpensive Convenient Whensils Halibut Steak 4 la Flamande Hamburg Steaks, Cutting Beef for Ice Cream Molds ‘ 5 Lamb or Mutton Larding Larded and Gauked Fillet Leg or Shin of Beef Leg of Mutton Lobster Salad Loin of Mutton Loin of Beef, Portion of Loin of Beef Taken Apart Macaroons ‘ Marrow Bones Measuring Cup Milk Biscuits Mock Charlctte ' Mold for Boned Turkey or Chicken Molds for Jellies and Creams Muffin Pans Orange Shells and Baskets jae Couktaile Parmesan Balls on Lettuce, with French Dressing Pattie Cutters Pea Patties Pears Facing 492 492 634 562 440 604 570 146 494 570 566 506 492 546 450 178 350 542 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Perfect Russian Pan Pheasant Philadelphia Cream Said Planked Shad, Putting on the Garnish Planked Shad, Ready to Serve Porterhouse Steak ‘ : Porterhouse or Sirloin Steak, elon Taming Portion of the Loin Pop Over Pans Pork ‘ Potato Salad Pulled Bread ‘ Putting the Wedineste< ona Pudding Princess Charlotte ‘ Ramekins Rib Roast . Roasting in a Gauze Door Oye Roast Pig Roll Pans Rolled Roast Rolled Wafers Saddle of Mutton Salad Materials Samovar : Serving and Waiting at a Course Dies series of eight illustrations Shirred Eggs Shoulder of Mutton ‘ Trussing on Back of Duck Trussing on Back of Turkey Sirloin Roast j Sirloin Steak, before Temmine Sirloin Steak, Pan Broiled Skimming Spoon Small Cakes, Mixed ; Soft Boiled Egg in Egg Cup Soup and Gravy Strainers . Soup Kettle Facing 492 238 458 108 108 150 150 156 492 172 458 494 562 562 178 230 144 238 492 230 620 232 440 634 656 250 234 200 190 230 150 150 48 626 250 48 48 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Sponge Cake, French Filling ‘ ‘i i Facing 626 Steamed Egg : ; . : : i 250 Stewed Peas in Turnip Cups ‘ 4 . ‘ 350 Stewed Prunes ‘ ‘ : i ‘i ‘ 542 Strawberry Cocktail a Qe 546 ' Stuffed Tomatoes 2 : 5 : ‘ é 402 Stuffed Potatoes. : : ; : : 286 Syllabub ‘ : 5 : 604 Taking out the Fillet 0 or Tenderioits : : 146 Tea Kettle . . 634 Tendons Drawn from Leg of Chidsen: or Turkey 188 Turkey or Chicken. ‘ ‘ : 236 Turkey Trussed Ready for Baking . : 190 Twentieth Century Bread . ‘ ‘ 3 , 494 Veal ‘ é 5 : . , , 172 Vienna Rolls ; a F : ‘ 492 Waldorf Salad in Apple Cups 3 , . 440 Watermelon 5 . . . ‘i 542 Whole Fruits . i j i . i 7 542 Whole Wheat Pudding. . 8 > 38 570 CHEMISTRY OF FOOD Of all the changes brought about during the Nineteenth Cen- tury, few have had a greater influence for good than the progress made in scientific cookery. A proper understand- ing of the conditions under which we live is of vital impor- tance and assistance to the housewife and mother. Domestic science, including chemistry of food, is now taught in nearly all the public schools of our large cities. The young child is able to tell not only the chemistry of common foods, but the effect of heat upon them. These girls when they reach womanhood will be able to select and cook foods necessary to sustain and build the body—they will know the elements of food, the general plan of body building. Let us compare the living machine, the human body, to the railroad engine or locomotive. For both it is necessary to begin by selecting materials for the general structure. When these materials have been worked and fitted together, fuel must be constantly supplied and an abundance of air to make it burn; and in the third place water is required. As a result of this combination, motion, heat and waste are produced. Pure air is of vast importance in body building. The oxygen uniting with the combustible part of the materials produces energy. The approximate principles of the body are resolved into about sixteen elements, each of which must be constantly sustained and nourished. A “ perfect ” or “ com- plete” food contains all the elements necessary for the build- ing of body. There are in the body five gases: Oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, chlorine and fluorine. The four solids are carbon, sulphur, phosphorus and silica. Seven minerals: Cal- cium, sodium, potassium, magnesium, manganesium and a trace of iron and copper. Oxygen, hydrogen and carbon are found in nearly all the tissues and fluids of the body. Seventy-five per : : 10 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK cent. of the adult human body is water; the proportion is greater in infants and less in the aged. It is one of the essen- tials in carrying on the vital processes. It dissolves substances necessary for the nutrition of the body, and carries from it the waste products. It is the medium in which chemical reaction takes place, and which carries the nutrient materials from one place to another. A considerable increase of water in the body, however, is looked upon as unfortunate, while a deficiency, if prolonged, causes a retention and accumulation of waste in the body, resulting in imperfect nutrition, and is one of the chief causes of constipation. Potassium chloride is found in the cells of tissues and in the muscle juices and nerve tissues. Green plants contain more potassium than sodium salts. This is also true of the potato; hence, succulent green vegetables supply to the system one of the necessary elements. We are told that green vegetables have no food value, and, according to the common acceptance of the meaning of these words, we can readily understand that they lack tissue-building elements ; but they contain salts, which play a very important part in body building. Magnesium is found with lime in the tissues. No one has ever discovered its particular use, but there it is, a constant ingredient in the muscles and brain. To have a perfect diet, one must select from all the food products, not live on a too concentrated or restricted diet. Nutrition may be said to take place under five conditions: Digestion, absorption, assimilation, destructive metabolism and elimination or excretion. The first begins in the mouth and continues throughout the alimentary canal; it is the process by which food is converted into assimilable compounds. All foods are not immediately assimilated or used; some are stored for future use. For instance, starch is digested and stored in the liver as glycogen. The carbo-hydrates are burned for heat and energy, and the excess stored as fat in the connective tissues. Destructive metabolism is a process that is con- tinually going on in the tissues; a sort of tearing out of the dead cells during the activity of building the new. For example, the waste products cast out of the lungs are products CHEMISTRY OF FOOD 11 of destructive metabolism. They are no longer required by the system, are, in fact, in the way, and must be thrown aside for new materials. The relations between food, exercise and habits of the indi- vidual must be in proper proportion to the food ingested. The works of the body are of two kinds, muscular and nervous, and the internal as well as the external work is done by the stored energy produced by the burning or oxidization of the foods. Persons frequently forget that every time the heart beats, blood is consumed to produce the muscular action. In the energy of living, we use blood produced from the food we eat. Alimentary principles may be divided into three classes: The albuminoids, nitrogenous foods or proteids; three words meaning the same, and comprising lean meats, fish, mollusks (oysters and clams), the crustacez (lobsters, crabs, shrimps), cheese, casein in milk, legumin found in the leguminous seeds, as old peas, beans and lentils, nitrogenous matter in nuts and the gluten of grains. The second division, non-nitrogenous or carbonaceous foods, consists of fats and the carbo-hydrates, the sugars, starches and mucilage, inulin and pectose, found in sea weeds and certain vegetables. The third group consists of inorganic foods, water and mineral salts. Eggs and milk are typical or perfect foods; that is, they contain within themselves all the elements necessary for the development of the young of their especial kind. The egg is a perfect food for the development of the chick, and milk for the young mammal; neither of these are, however, perfect foods for the human adult. When added to our daily bills of fare they are placed in the nitrogenous or albuminous group, and served with such foods as white bread and butter. Cows’ milk, a typical food for the calf, is by no means a typical food for the human being. Nor would human milk supply the requirements of the calf. The calf gets its growth in from four to five years ; from infancy to manhood is three times that long. One can see at a glance that such food would quite upset the delicate digestive apparatus of an infant. When we go contrary to the laws of nature, sickness and suffering are the results. Cows’ 12 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK milk does not agree with the average infant; it was never meant to agree and has no right to agree. In vegetable foods the carbo-hydrates predominate and must therefore be mixed with nitrogenous substances, in order to form a perfect diet. Many vegetables are rich in nitrogen, others in starch. In arranging our daily bills of fare these must be blended. A perfect diet consists of common food materials blended to suit the age, sex, occupation and climate in which the indi- vidual lives. They must not only be well proportioned, but well selected and taken in proper quantities, or they are worse than waste, as their presence clogs the delicate digestive organs, throwing them out of order. There is more danger from over-eating than from under-eating. When persons reach middle life or a little beyond there is less vigor, hence, less necessity for a large quantity of food. People who dis- obey this rule either accumulate fat and become unwieldy, or wear out the secretory organs, and have such diseases as gout, rheumatism, Bright’s disease, and many kindred com- plaints. Rich and highly-seasoned dishes please the palate and induce the thoughtless to take greater quantities of food than can be assimilated ; too much meat, too many starchy foods and sweets with too few green vegetables and fruits produce torpid or over-worked livers. Men as a class eat too much meat, and are prone to kidney and liver troubles; women eat too much starch mixed with sugar and cooked butter, as in cakes, pre- serves and puddings, and are prone to corpulency and con- stipation. The total amount of food required each twenty-four hours varies, of course, with the occupation and condition of the individual. The average adult in exercise requires as a day’s ration about six pounds; of this amount about three and a half pounds will be water, much of which is found in the common foods and taken in beverages. Of the remaining part, one-fourth will be nitrogenous matter; three-fourths carbonaceous, with about two hundred grains of mineral mat- ter. This is not the amount consumed by the average Ameri- can, but the amount he should consume. Animal foods, being richer in albuminoids or nitrogenous CHEMISTRY OF FOOD 13 constituents, must be taken in small quantities. By mixing a small’amount of lean beef with bread or potato we get a food palatable, attractive and containing the necessary require- ments. A mixture of beans and potatoes will contain rather more of the tissue-building elements. It would require two pounds of ordinary bread to supply the nitrogen in twelve ounces of meat. Three meals a day might be arranged from a table of ingredients containing the proper proportions of all the elements: Bread cg we ac eee OH Re Uw 12 oz, Butter ogous Aue ge eo ae we ae ea 3 fs Millon aesiaG cae: Giver a uy peace tee G 4st Potato ‘ ap) ie PGR). Aa os 6 «6 Ricesii2«. waite. 2h els geled is. wk J 4“ Cabbage du. are wien Boe a 6 « CHEESES) gigi ge A GH hye a A 4 £8 SUSAR 2b a toe GS GE Re ae r 4 Water alone, including that in tea and coffee. . 55 ‘* A second illustration will give another example of the same idea: Beef, weighed raw 2... 2. eee wee 12 oz. Whole wheat bread . . . ‘ i! Big BZ Butter 2. 4.05) gu Behe Sa BE Mata ow 3 Potato. 6 2 ee eee Be Go « Io Watef ig ck nh wo eg we eR a wh a ee 55 #8 Each one of these articles may be replaced by another of the same class. For instance, old beans are nitrogenous or muscle-making foods and may be substituted for beef; cheese, the casein of milk, may be substituted for either beef or beans; rice, macaroni, white bread, boiled chestnuts, white or sweet potatoes, are each interchangeable one with the other, at different meals. Olive oil, cream, oleaginous nuts and butter are also interchangeable. When green or suc- culent vegetables or fruits are used, less water is required. It is wise to serve fruits with cereals or breads, vegetables with meats, cream with starchy puddings, olive oil with green vege- tables. Digestion is more easily performed with correct com- binations. 14 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK Starch does not occur in animal foods, but nitrogen is found abundantly in many vegetables. Nitrogenous foods are, as a rule, more easily digested uncooked. All starchy foods must be well and thoroughly cooked. In old peas, beans and lentils the starch is so incorporated with legumin, the nitrogenous principle, that the cooking must be long and slowly done in order to soften the envelope or wall of the starch granules, otherwise fermentation or flatulency will result. The first object of cooking is to assist digestion. Careful, simple cooking only can do this; for instance, baked or boiled potatoes are easily digested; when fried the starch granules are covered with a coating of fat which prevents digestive secretions from acting on them; frying renders them difficult of digestion. A large quantity of fried foods may be eaten without nourishing the body; and of one thing we are quite sure, they always tax the digestive organs. Many foods are chemically changed in the process of digestion. Starch is not found in the blood as starch, but is changed by enzymes (unor- ganized ferments) in the digestive secretions, into sugar. The ptyalin of the saliva, the pepsin and rennin of the stomach, the trypsin, amylopsin, and steapsin of the intestinal secretions are enzymes. The enzyme ptyalin in the saliva (an alkaline medium) acts upon the starch precisely the same as diastase, which is found in the common malt extracts. If our foods are well cooked and thoroughly masticated we assist in the digestion of the starches and save the cost of “ aids to digestion.” Digestion is natural; indigestion, the artificial digestion, unnatural. The secretions of the stomach are slightly acid and have no effect upon starches. The starches are separated in the stomach from other substances and passed on into the second stomach, the duodenum, the upper part of the small intestine, where again, in the presence of alkaline secretions, they meet the enzyme amylopsin, which continues and completes the digestion begun in the mouth. The nitrogenous foods are torn apart by mastication; they enter the stomach (an acid medium), and in the presence of CHEMISTRY OF FOOD 15 the enzyme pepsin are partly or wholly digested, as the con- ditions may be; if the digestion is not finished, they pass into the duodenum where in the presence of an alkaline medium, digestion is continued by the enzyme trypsin. The oils are emulsionized in the small intestine in an alkaline medium, by enzyine steapsin and the bile. Defective teeth and hasty mastication are frequently the primary causes of indigestion. Soft foods are to be especially condemned; mushes, for instance, should be masticated, other- wise they pass into, the small intestine in an unprepared condi- tion. Starches are burned in the body to produce heat and energy; they also produce fat. If taken in excess of that needed for immediate use, are stored as fat in the connective tissue. Fats and oils are burned in the body to produce heat and energy. Too much starch and sugar increase the weight of the body and crowd the liver. The albuminoids build the muscular lean flesh and tissues. Mineral matter aids in the formation of the teeth and bones. The cereals are rich in these salts, hence, are admirable foods for the young, not infants, but for children sufficiently old to have teeth for mastication, and for nursing mothers, DIET TABLE This table shows the quantity of nitrogenous and carbona- ceous elements in one hundred parts of some of our common foods and will assist in arranging a well balanced dietary. Nitrogen. Carbon. Lean beef. . Be ce eal Ge Be 5 3.00 11.00 Common roasted beef. . 2... 1. we ee 3.528 17.76 Calf’siliver oo. 8. oe a we oe - 3-093 15.68 Calf s heatt & aoe. sl a O Se aS 2.031 16.00 White fishy: a Gg edo fa aa eS as ae car 2.41 9.00 Salmon. s <6 4 4%} & oo ee aS ee 2.09 16,00 Bel Sige a see et ee ah ee ee 2.00 30.05 Eggs. 6 ae HOR ew Re ee 1.90 13.50 Milk (cow’s) . - ee ee eee ee ee 66 8.00 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK Nitrogen. Carbon. Oysters... 2... cio EO Gin ta asa » Bis 7.18 Lobster... .. 2... Sigay oF te eae 2.93 10.96 Cheese (ripeold). . 2... 2.2. .20-08 4.126 41.04 Cheese (Cream) .. 2... ..--..-, 2.920 71.10 Cheese (Neufchatel ) tan Gato ge kas Gey Se 1.27 50.71 Beans (fresh full-grown Limas). ...... 4.50 42.00 Beans (old dried)... 2... 2. wae 4.15 48.50 Peas (dried). ss. ace ee 4 He we 3.66 44.00 Pedsi(Split) sg Wa we ae Re ee 3-91 46.00 Lentils. dd ee SY ae ee - 3.87 43.00 Hard wheat... ......... : 3.00 41.00 Softwheat .... 0 fe... eee . 1.81 39.00 Flour, white. . 2. 05 ww ee ee . . 1.64 38.50 Oatmeal. ....... ott Gad reat sae eet ae Pay 1.95 44.00 Rye flour . . gj daly War Pat daecit ee ime ae wo ee ae TTS 41.00 Rice yas 8 4 we ES eS ee eG 1.80 41.00 Potatoes .. ‘ ia eae Se RS aw +33 11,00 Batley aca RR ee HP RR 1.90 40.00 Indian corn . tte Te CR hae adh, ere . . 1.70 44.00 Bread (common home-made). . . . . . 1,20 30.00 Carrots a es be Re ee RS 31 5.50 Fish (dtied)}i-e «<5 ep 244 eS ee 92 34.00 Nuts (English walnuts) . ..... 2.6. 1.40 20.65 Almonds... 0... eee ee ee 2.67 40.00 Butter es bla ae we ole w8 -64 83.00 Oliveoi: 22% ee ¥ as wwe ee Traces only. 98.00 KITCHEN CALENDAR The inexperienced housewife finds more or less difficulty in determining the exact time required for cooking the various vegetables and meats so that they may all be done for the same meal at the same time. Thermometers for ovens have not, until recently, been in general use. Now one can have the so-called “thermometer,” really an indicator, put into the oven door of any modern range, either gas, coal or wood, and at a very small cost; thus relieving the cook from the necessity of stand- ing and watching and making unsatisfactory attempts to ascer- tain the true heat of the oven. One cannot always tell what is meant by a moderate, moderately cool or quick oven, unless one has had long ex>erience, and even then there is a lack of exactness and an unusual amount of worry. In this calendar, we refer only to Fahrenheit. A potato will bake in three-quarters of an hour at a tem- perature of 300° Fahr.; it will harden on the outside and almost burn at a temperature of 400° in twenty minutes, and if the oven is only 220° it will take one hour and a quarter to a half. In boiling meats always use boiling water and after the first five minutes of rapid boiling reduce the temperature to 180°, and cook twenty minutes to each pound. The meat must always be covered with water. In making stews where the meat is cut into small pieces, it is better to heat it at first in a little fat, then make the sauce and allow the meat to cook for two hours at a temperature of 180°. An eight pound turkey with stuffing should go into an oven at 400° for a half hour to seal the outside, and then bake at 280° for two hours longer. Without stuffing, the oven must be 400° for a half hour and then dropped to 280° for an hour and a half. A four pound chicken with stuffing will bake at 400° for a 2 17 18 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK half hour: and then one and a half hours at 280°; the same sized chicken not stuffed, a half hour at 400°, then one hour at 280°. A tame duck stuffed with potatoes placed in an oven at 360° requires one hour to brown and one hour at 230° to finish. A goose must be cooked according to its age, and it is very difficult to select a young goose unless one is experienced. See directions for selecting geese. If they are stuffed with potatoes, cook in an oven at 400° for thirty minutes; then for two hours at 230°, basting frequently. SCHEDULE FOR FISH AND GAME Fish take on their weight in length rather than bulk, which gives a specific time independent of weight. Brown quickly for a half hour, then cook at 300° for a second half hour. Planked fish under the gas or before a wood fire will require thirty minutes, and in a coal, wood or oil oven forty-five minutes. Oysters are done when the gills are thoroughly curled. Game such as woodcock, snipe and pheasants, must be roasted or baked continuously for thirty minutes at 400°. Partridge, split down the back, thirty minutes at 400°. Prairie chicken forty-five minutes at 400°. A haunch of venison will cook in a quick oven at 400° about thirty minutes, then bake slowly for two hours at 300°, basting frequently. To test run a skewer in the fleshy part and if the blood fol- lows upon drawing the skewer out and the meat at the same time is tender and rare, it is done. All red meats should be served rare; all white meats well done. All meats should be nearly done before being seasoned with salt, as the salt draws out the juices and toughens the fibre, making even good meat dry and unpalatable. GENERAL BAKING IN COAL OR WOOD STOVE All meats must go into a very hot oven (400°). After they have been thoroughly seared on the outside cool down the oven KITCHEN CALENDAR 19 to 260°, when the fat will begin to melt. Baste with this fat every fifteen minutes. Do not use water. Bread in small French loaves will be baked continuously at 360° for 30 minutes; square loaves at 300° for ten minutes and for fifty minutes at 260°. Pastry, such as patties and tarts, for twenty minutes at 360°. Muffins, gems, sally lunns and other light breads twenty minutes at 360%. Corn bread in shallow pans forty-five minutes at 360°. Pies with upper crust thirty minutes at 360°; with under crust thirty minutes at 340°. Apples, cored, in a slow oven at 260°, so that they may become soft without hardening the skin. Cakes without butter require a hot oven 300° to 360°. Four-egg sponge cake, twenty minutes; sixiegg sponge cake thirty minutes; ten-egg sponge cake, forty-five minutes. Angel food and sunshine cake, baked in pans made for the purpose, require a cool oven, 230°, which is gradually increased during the first half hour to 260°, baking in all three-quarters of an hour. If the cake is not brown at the end of this time increase the heat for just a moment until it assumes the proper color. Cakes containing butter, such as pound cake, cup cake and fruit cake, must be baked in a very slow oven. Fruit cake may be steamed for three hours and finished in an oven at a temperature of 240°, or it may be put into an oven at 220° for three hours and finished at 260° for one hour. For gas baking allow twenty degrees less than the above. 20 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK The time required for cooking green vegetables : Green peas, young and fresh . . 2... . . « 15 minutes Green peas, old and not fresh. . . 2... 1 eee 3o0.C* String beans... . . a) gabe ee oe 45 “« Beans, shelled(green). ....... 6S Wee 45 Lima beans, young, fresh . . ... . wy Ga aC BIC 3o.COi* Lima beans, dried (soaked)... 2... 2.2... 45 ‘ Cabbage, whole head, simmer . . ........ 2 hours Cabbage, halfhead . .........-. - . J hour Cabbage, quarterhead. ....... ose Taeoae ake 3 30 minutes Cabbage, chopped... 2. 2... ee ee eee 20 =“ Cauliflower and Broccoli. . .... a) ee Ce gor. oft Cucumbers, cut into quarters. . . . . ay ssa 3o0.Ci«sSE” Squash, pared and cut into blocks... ... 1... 20 «6 Pumpkin, in squares for pies ....... se wees goro «#8 Tomatoes, peeled and stewed. . . .. Sent eas B 3o0.—C*SS: Tomatoes, baked, whole, slow oven. . ... . . hour Tomatoes, stuffed and baked... . 2... a © t¢ Green peppers, stuffed, ........ i ey (OS Green peppers, stewed. . . 2... ee ee ee 30 minutes Onions; N€W', 8s Oe 45 <« Spanish onions, whole, ... 1... ..-- 2... 2 hours Spanish onions, cut into slices .... 1... 1 hour Okie. 59s, ee Rn aS eae rss Celery, stewed. >. . 2... Sie CaWaer aL ney nee 30 minutes Spinach) 2: 2g 4 4 4. Aes in see sia a nee A A Io <« Brussels sprouts, fresh. . . 2... fee Pe soo Kale 4.4.4 a '% w % pat Be, ees a wae i we ae aig EE Bananas, baked (240°) . 2 1. 1 eee ee es 30—C«‘*S] Apples, sweet, baked (slow). .......... go. OU Apples, sour, baked (slow), .......... 20 All underground vegetables are as a rule rich in woody fibre; use boiling, unsalted water to start, adding salt when they are partly cooked. Rule for cooking dry and underground vegetables. Potatoes, to boil until they can be easily pierced to the centre withafork ......... 2.4... 30 minutes Potatoes, to bake, slowly. . .......-2.0. 45 «€ Potatoes, cut intodice tocream. ......... Io ¢é Rice, Carolina, 2... 1 2. ee eee sxe, QOS eS KITCHEN CALENDAR 21 Rice; Pathiay <.9-¢ © ex 4 OR BE Rw eS 20 minutes Beans, soup, dried, soaked over night,slowly. . . . 2 hours Beans, if for baking, until skin cracks . . . 2... 30 minutes Peas, dried, soaked overnight. ...... . . 2 hours Lentils, dried, soaked over night ......... 1 hour Sweet potatoes, medium size, toboil. . ...... 40 minutes Sweet potatoes, medium size, to bake . .... 45to50 “ Turnips, white, cut into blocks, tostew .... . 20 as Turnips, yellow, cut into blocks, tostew. . .... jo. Carrots, cut into dice, tostew .......-.. 1 hour Parsnips, cut into halves. . . ian BBL eases bo Beets,snew .........- +. ee ee . 645 minutes Beets;old 2? isa ae Gee Se lee RO, a 4 hours Salsify, boiled ©. 0... ee ee eee 45 minutes Globe artichokes. 2... 00. ew. ee ee ay. 8 Jerusalem artichokes, sliced . . ...... oa. FO. HE Jerusalem artichokes, whole ...... gos aac A | OEE Asparagus. ....... BSNS 1S EE te dee 38 45 * Polkishorts: a0204- . da. dal a0e a ee ie eee o 45 |" Green sweet corn, athe it beginstoboil ...... 5 ss TO MEASURE A half pint measuring cup, tin or glass, can be purchased at any house-furnishing store for ten cents, and is the standard measure for all recipes. These measures are level. A cup” = 4% pint 1 gill (34 pint) = ¥% cup I pint of brown sugar = 13 ounces 2 cups (or I pint) of granulated sugar = I pound 2% cups of powdered sugar = fF 4 cups of sifted flour = ff § I pint of water = Fs I pint of solid fat = 1 ss I pint of solid chopped cooked meat aso ep I pint of wheat = I * 1 pint of Indian meal = I * frounce Io eggs, medium sized, = I *¢ A common tumbler holds about ¥ pint A common-sized wineglass, 4 tablespoonfuls y gill A dash of pepper = ¥ saltspoonful 22 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK ROUNDING MEASURES To save confusion in weights and to be uniform with English and French methods, measure all tablespoonfuls and teaspoon- fuls rounding, as much above the spoon as the bowl below. In all these recipes a tablespoonful or teaspoonful means a round- ing measure, unless otherwise stated. I rounding tablespoonful of flour 36 ounce I rounding tablespoonful of sugar a I rounding tablespoonful of butter r SS 1 tablespoonful of ordinary liquids By X teaspoonful X tablespoonful 1 dessertspoonful I saltspoonful I teaspoonful 2 teaspoonfuls hid ded wd 4 teaspoonfuls == 1 tablespoonful 1 dessertspoonful = « I “cc 1 teaspoonful 2 dessertspoonfuls 45 drops of water Ile td I teaspoonful 1 fluid dram 16 oz. avoirdupois, or commercial weight 1 pound A hundredweight == 112 pounds 31% gallons, liquid measure = I barrel 2 barrels = _iI hogshead 1 barrel of potatoes about 150 pounds 1 barrel of flour = 196 pounds 1 barrel of sugar about 350 pounds THERMOMETER SCALES Fahrenheit—Freezing point 32° of the scale ee Boiling point == 212° « “ Centigrade—Freezing point = oo ss eg Boiling point = Io00° “ A degree of Centigrade is greater than a degree of Fahrenheit as nine is greater than five. To reduce Fahrenheit to Centigrade subtract 32 from the given number in Fahrenheit, muliply the result by 5 and divide this by 9. To change Centigrade to Fahrenheit multiply the degrees of Centigrade by 9, divide the result by 5, then add 32. Boiling point of water at sea level, Fahrenheit, 212°; Centi- grade, 100°. KITCHEN CALENDAR DIGESTIBILITY OF FOODS Articies oF Dist. How Cooxgp. Pigs’ Feet(soused) ...... . . + . Boiled Sweetbreads ....... aE) we ga Stewed or Broiled Prpe. gon) ee eR - Boiled RRS 4 BOK ee Rw He wee ‘4 - Boiled—plain EGGS: fe a ee GO EAL we . Raw Eggs (whipped)... 2... 2. ee, . Raw Bos) (a6. ds a ePe a e: . . . . Soft Boiled RICE. ge eit ee Ak ee es eG) wae a Boiled with milk Salmon‘Trout «2 3 a 6 2 2 ee ee Boiled Venison Steak .... . 2... . . Broiled Brains = 2g gir SaosaP see cas ayo “eh ae Ge Boiled Ox Ever. ge eo ea oh A RO as Broiled Cod fish (cured dry). . 2... .....- Boiled : Egg$. 245) AG eA Ew Roasted TURKEY car oa Sow) NE ge Bee es Boiled Gelatin: 5. 4.4 2 ee ww wa . Boiled GoOSE- segs Gnd AE gs SSS EDS Se Roasted Pig (sucking) . Be Ge ee le Se Le Roasted Lamb ..... fe Bert Be ae , Broiled Cabbage. . 2... ee ee ee ... Raw Chicken... 1... a ee . . » Fricasseed Beek. “sacle Bas aby ag es See Boiled Beef? 2 gece a Se es ee we es x Roasted RaCO thing g oo eG) He lee ee Ge. S 7 . Broiled MUttON cc ge a oe ee ogee nt Boiled CornBread. - . 2... 2... . . Baked Mutton . ..... . .. . + Roasted Sausage’ eGo ka 4 ke OH Rw RO a ee Broiled OYsterss ww. as A. seh ap oe Sees aie we Stewed Irish Potatoes ........26.. Boiled Gheeses eng ai nates Bick ay Spay Sw Raw "TUMDIPS) ie A a ww a Boiled Eggs 2... 2.4.2... 4. + Hard Boiled CS. och gl ces TSC aay wy Ge GOs aN nae el IT 1G Fried Beets.) 4. oe tanks & Ou RS . . » Boiled FowIssg ie: ake eH Ba es Boiled Salmon (salted)... 2... ew eee Broiled BEC at a ay ae Ge aes hace ‘ . . Fried Howls: co cs ngs Sere, hy ver “See we ngs ee! ES Roasted Ducks ss ae Hs ee Gelae 30 welon. ae Es Roasted Veal paiva wwe eS ew Boiled Vartilage ss: cece ay RS ... . Boiled Céali ss. 0% eee ee ae ee . . . . Roasted Cabbage: on ig a ao Gp A gi Boiled Pork oe 25 gy oe lat Bat oay ba ee RS ES Roasted Tendon. .,..- +2 ey ee e+ + Boiled TIME OF 23 CHYMIFICATION. HH. PARRARAA PW WWWWWWWWWWHWWNHDNDNNNNNNNNHD HS eee ee ee M. 00 oo oo 24 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK NAMES OF FRUITS AND VEGETABLES IN VARIOUS LANGUAGES ENGLISH Almond Apple Apricot Artichoke Asparagus Banana Bean, Broad Bean, Kidney Beet Berberry Black Currant Borecole Broccoli Brussels Sprouts Cabbage Cardoon Carrot Cauliflower Celery Cherry Chicor Cress, Cress, Water Cress, Winter Cucumber or Succory arden Eggplant Endive Fig Filbert Garlic Gooseberry Grape Horseradish Kohlrabi or Turnip Cabbage Leek Lemon Lettuce Melon, Musk Mint, Common Mulberry Mushroom Mustard Nectarine Olive FRENCH Amandier Pomme Abricote Artichaut Asperge Bauane Féve de Marais Haricot Betterave Epine vinette Cussis and Gro- seille noir Chou vert, or Non pomm Broccoli and Chou brocoli Chou de Bruxelles ora jets Chou pommé or Cabus Cardon Carotte Chou-fieur Céleri Cerise Chicorée Sauvage Cresson Cresson de Fon- taine Cresson de Terre Concombre Melongéne Auber- gine sh Chicorée des Jar- dins, Endive Figue Noisette Ail Groseille Vigne Cranson or le Grand Raifort Chou-rave Poireau Limon Laitue Melon Menthe des Jardins Mare Champignon com- estible Moutarde Péche lisse Qlive GERMAN Mandel Apfel Aprikose Artischéke Spargel Pisang Grosse Bohne, Gar- ten Bohne Tiirkische Bohne Rothe Rtibe Berberitzen Schwarze nisbeere Griiner Kohl Italienischer Kohl Johan- Sprossen Kohl Kopfkohl Kardon Moéhre or Gelbe Riibe Blumen Kohl Sellerie Kirsche Gemeine Cichorie Gemeine Garten Kresse Brunnen Kresse Winter Kresse Gurke Tollapfel and Eier- pflanze Endivie Feige Haselnuss Knoblauch Stachelbeere Traube and Wein- trauben Meerrettig Kohl Rabi Gemeiner Lauch or Porro Zwiebel Citrone Gartensalat and Lattich Melone Miinze Maulbeere Essbare Blatter Schwdmme en. Nectarpfirsich Olive SPANISH Almendra Manzana Albaricoque Cinauco Esparrago (Guineo) Haba Judias and Fasoles Betarraga Berberis Grosella negro Col Broculi Berza Cardo Chirivia Berza florida Appio hortense Cerezo Achicoria Mastuerzo Berro Hierba de Santa Barbbara Pepino or Cohom- TO Berengena Endivia Higuera Avellano jo Uva-Crespas ina Rabano Picante Puerro Limon Lechuga Melon Menta Moral Seta Mostaza Especie de Durazna Qliva ENGLISH Onion Orange Orach Parsley Parsnip Pea Peach Pear Pepper, Red or sat shile i ‘ineapple Plum Pomegranate Potato Pumpkin or Gourd Quituce Radish Rape Red Currant Rhubarb Selsity Savoy Sea-kale Spinach Strawberry Sweet Chestnut Thyme Tomato Turnip Walnut White Currant Watermelon KITCHEN CALENDAR FRENCH Oignon Oranger Arroche Persil Panais Pois Piment Ananas Prune Grenade Pomme de Terre Courge Coignassier Radis and Rave Navette Groseille rouge Rhubarbe Sauge Salsifis Chou de Milan or pommé fraisé Chou Marin and Crambé pinard Fraise Marron Thym Tomate Navet Noyer Groseille blanche Melon d’Eau GERMAN Zwiebel Pomeranze Meldekraut Petersilie Pastinake Erbse Pfirsiche Birne Spanischer Pfeffer Ananas Pflaume Granate Kartoffel Kirbis Quitte Rettig and Radies Repskoh! Gemeine Johannis- beere Rhabarber Salbei Haferwurzel Bocksbart Wirsing or Herz- koh] Meerkohl and Spinat Erdbeere Castanie Thimian Liebesapfel Rtibe Wallnnss Gemeine Johannis- beere Wassermelone 25 SPANISH Cebolla Naranja Armuelle Perejil Chirivia and Pas- tinaca Guisante Alberchigo Pera Pimiento Pina Ciruelo Granada Batatas Inglezas Calabaza ° Membrillo Rabano Naba silvestre Grosella Ruibarbo Salvia Barba Cabruna Berza de Saboya Col marina Espinaca Fresa Castano Tomillo Tomate Rote oguera Grosella Sandia 26 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK PROPER SEASONS FOR DIFFERENT FOODS It is impossible to give the exact seasons for fruits in different parts of the United States, but a general idea will be helpful. Preserve all fruits when at their height; they are then in season, This rule will apply also to canning or jelly making. In the South, of course, the time will be earlier than in the far North. It is a well-known fact that green fruits contain a goodly amount of pectose, which by the action of natural fer- ments in the fruit is changed to pectin. This pectin exists in a ready formed condition in Irish moss, and is found in fruits just ripe. Ina day this is again changed, hence over-ripe fruits will not make firm jelly. See jelly making. Tomatoes should be canned during August; after that time they lose their solidity and become watery, also their sweetness of flavor and become more acid, MEATS Beef and mutton are used the year round, but are really in best condition and in season during the winter months. Veal and lamb are in season during the spring months, from the first of April to the first of June. They are used before and after this time, but are not plentiful. “Spring” chickens appear about the first of May. With the present incubator method of raising chickens, and the “house” fashion of raising lambs, we have both at an earlier season, but they are high in price, and do not give a corresponding amount of nourishment. Capons, from December until April. Turkeys from September until March. Geese and ducks, sold under the name of “green geese” and “ducklings,” from the first of June to the first of September ; old ducks and geese, from the first of December to the first of April, KITCHEN CALENDAR 27 Guinea fowls are best from the first of June to the first of October, although they appear in the markets the year around. Game is in season during the fall and winter; the season begins about the first of November and closes February first. Woodcock are in the market from the first of August to January. They are best after the first of October. Cold stor- age game is exposed for sale at all seasons, but is undesirable food. Reed birds or rice birds are in season along the Middle Eastern coast from the latter part of August and September to October. These are the reed birds of the North and the rice birds of the South. Rabbits and hares are in season from November first to February first; in many places they are in market the year round; they are not good, however, when out of season. Venison is good from September first to January first. Wild duck, partridges and geese from September first to April first ; the choicest of these are the canvas back, red head, mallard, teal and widgeon. FISH JANUARY Cod, haddock, lake halibut, chicken halibut, striped bass, eels, Columbia River salmon, smelts, red snapper, Nova Scotia herring, pickerel, catfish, terrapin, green turtle, scallops, oysters, white bait. You will find exposed for sale long lists of fish not included here. They are not in season, however; but are preserved in some fashion, either in cold storage or by freezing, and are not wholesome food. We have now coming from the South prawns, fresh mackerel and shad. FEBRUARY Cod-fish, haddock, halibut, striped bass, eels, Columbia River salmon, frost fish, Spanish mackerel, sheep’s-head, red snapper and smelts still coming from Maine and Massachusetts and the inferior frozen ones from Canada. During the latter part of this 28 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK month we have our choicest smelts from Long Island. Southern shad are now more plentiful; salmon, trout, and white fish are good. Terrapin, green turtle, scallops and oysters are in fine condition. Soft shell crabs are beginning to come, also a little fresh crab meat from the Southern waters. MARCH Cod-fish, haddock, halibut, striped bass, chicken halibut, eels, Columbia River salmon, flounders, Spanish mackerel, pompano, sheep’s-head, red snapper and shad are quite abundant from North Carolina and are beginning to come a little farther north. Salmon trout, white fish, yellow perch and pickerel are also coming in small quantities; terrapin, green turtle, oysters and scallops are still in season. During the latter part of the month we have salmon coming from the Kennebec and other rivers of Maine, and they remain in good condition all through April. APRIL We have about the same list, adding now good shad, from the Susquehanna, Delaware and Hudson Rivers, and fresh mack- erel also make their appearance at this season. Sheep’s-head are still coming from North Carolina as well as king fish; smelts go out of season, that is they lose their sweetness; red snapper is in its best condition the middle of this month. Sea bass are coming from the North, and blue fish make their appearance in southern waters about the middle of the month. The season for brook trout opens April first. Salmon trout, white fish, green turtle, lobster, prawns, hard shell crabs, and crawfish are found in good condition. Scallops leave us at the end of this month as well as oysters. We have in their place clams. The latter part of this month frogs’ legs are in good condition and plentiful. MAY Lobsters, crabs,prawns and shrimps are now in good condition; oysters and scallops have gone, clams of different varieties taking their place. Oregon salmon continues during the entire month. Flounders are at their best. Fresh mackerel, Spanish mackerel and pompano come in refrigerator cars and are in KITCHEN CALENDAR 29 good condition. Butterfish and weak fish are plentiful and cheap. King fish appear and are good until October. Sheep’s- head, porgies and sea bass are abundant. Shad now comes from the Connecticut waters and is of very superior flavor, but is passing out of season, the flesh becoming soft and unpalat- able. Brook trout are at their best, and we still have eels and striped bass, cod, halibut, chicken halibut and haddock, green turtle, and frog’s legs. JUNE Cod-fish has just gone out of season, the flesh is soft and not at its best; cod is truly a winter fish. This may also be said of haddock, halibut and chicken halibut. We have striped bass, eels, lobsters and fresh salmon from the rivers of Maine and Canada, which is cheapest during this season of the year. Black bass, fresh mackerel, pompano, Spanish mackerel, weak fish, butter fish, king fish, sheep’s-head, sea bass, sturgeon and porgies, the latter being cheap and perhaps undesirable. A few shad are exposed for sale, but they are unpalatable. Blue fish, however, are getting larger and are much better than during the previous month. This also applies to black bass. It may be remembered that striped bass in some markets are called rock fish, and are salt water fish; while black bass are fresh water fish. Crabs, lobsters, clams, frogs’ legs and crawfish are still in season. JULY Eels, lobsters (from Maine and Canada), pompano, flounders, black bass, Spanish mackerel, butter fish, weak fish, sheep’s- head, porgies, sea bass, blue fish, moon-fish, brook trout, green turtle, crawfish, shrimps, frogs’ legs and soft crabs are still in season. This list will also answer for August. SEPTEMBER Cod-fish, haddock, halibut are coming, and are in better con- dition than during the previous month, but they are not first- class until October. Rock or striped bass, lobsters, eels, salmons now come from Nova Scotia, and the price is steadily advancing and becomes very high until the last of the month, 30 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK when the East coast salmon go out of season. Flounders, black fish, fresh mackerel, Spanish mackerel, the latter being in their best condition during this month, pompano, butter fish, weak fish, porgies and a few smelts are exposed for sale, but are not in good condition, while red snapper is now beginning to be more solid, but is not at its best until October. The grunter, a fish similar to the red snapper, is also in season. Sea bass and blue fish, salmon trout, white fish, cod-fish and porgies, green turtle, crawfish, frogs’ legs, lobsters, hard crabs and soft crabs are high in price, and are, perhaps, in their best condition. Moon-fish, butter fish and oysters are exposed for sale, but-are not fine. Clams, hard and soft, and soft crabs are now coming from the East coast, north of New York. OCTOBER Cod-fish during the latter part of the month are in better con- dition ; striped bass or rock fish, lobsters, black fish, Columbia River salmon are here, but are not as fine as those caught on the Maine coast, which come earlier in the season. Flounders, fresh mackerel, Spanish mackerel, pompano, weak fish, king fish, sheep’s-head, grunter, red snapper, white perch, sea bass, black bass, blue fish, salmon trout, white fish, yellow perch, pickerel, masquallonge, green turtle, carp, oysters, clams, hard and soft crabs, crawfish and prawns. Hard and soft crabs are now passing out of the market. White bait and scallops are beginning to make their appearance, but are not in as good condition as they are in November. Oysters are getting better. NOVEMBER Cod is now in fine flavor. Haddock, halibut, rock or striped bass, salmon, trout, fresh mackerel, grunter, perch, red snapper, smelts are in good condition. Black blass, white fish, yellow perch, pickerel, masquallonge and blue fish are in good condi- tion up until about the middle of the month, and those exposed for sale during the winter months are preserved by freezing. Masquallonge, cod-fish, green turtle, terrapin, red snapper are fairly good. Oysters are better; frogs’ legs, hard crabs, craw- fish and prawns are rather going out of season, KITCHEN CALENDAR 31 DECEMBER During this month oysters are in fine condition, also scallops, smelts, while lobster and crustacez in general are in poor, soft condition. Oysters and scallops come in as the lobsters go out; flounders, terrapin, halibut, cod-fish are now at their best. Rock or striped bass, Columbia River salmon, frost fish, tom cods, cusk, black fish, red snapper, black bass, pickerel, masquallonge, green turtle, and shad from the St. John River, Florida, are exposed for sale in the markets; they have been transported, of course, in refrigerator cars; they are not fine in flavor and are quite high in price. VEGETABLES Our rapid transportation makes it almost impossible to give exact time when vegetables are in season. Our country being large, the climate so very different in different parts, vegetables, like fruit, are in season the whole year. Celery in New York, Philadelphia and Boston is truly in season during the winter ; from the South, as early as July 1st. Lettuce can be had all the year round; in the winter it is grown in hot houses, or comes from the far South; while in summer we have a home produc- tion, which is less desirable than that grown in winter. Mushrooms are grown in cellars or fields, and can be pur- chased at any season. We have a number of vegetables that can be grown in any garden during the summer and put aside to keep for winter use. It is well to remember that appetites are destroyed by too much sameness. Use vegetables in sea- son in the locality in which you live. Such vegetables as car- rots, turnips, parsnips, beets, cabbage, onions, celery, salsify, leeks, endive and potatoes are easily kept for winter use. This relieves you of the necessity of canning vegetables. Tarragon, parsley and herbs may be dried just before the flowering season. -Green peppers and okra are also easily dried. The winter vege- tables are greater in number than the summer ones, hence it is not necessary to can and preserve such foods, unless one lives on a narrow diet. Winter vegetables are sweet and white potatoes, artichokes, 32 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK celery, endive, cabbage, onions, leeks, chicory, yellow and white turnips, kale, winter squash, pumpkins, mushrooms, old peas, beans, lentils, old beets, salsify, carrots and parsnips. Spring.—All the above with spinach, scullions, dandelions, asparagus, poke, corn, salad and early lettuce added. Summer.—Peas, string-beans, summer squash, cucumbers, tomatoes, sweet corn, new potatoes, lima beans, new beets, let- tuce, fresh sweet peppers, mushrooms, summer cabbage, egg plant, okra, Brussels sprouts and onions. Autumn or Fall—Potatoes, sweet and white; celery, cab- bage, tomatoes, peppers, lima beans, corn, Brussels sprouts, kidney beans, onions, cos or Romaine, new white turnips and new carrots. HS te METHODS OF COOKING Primitive man, no doubt, could easily masticate and digest his raw wheat, but in the present generation under existing circum- stances this is entirely out of the question. Heat does not always alter the chemical constituents of food, but when prop- erly applied, practically aids digestion. Such changes may not be detected by chemical analysis, and yet be perceptible to the digestive apparatus. Heat coagulates and hardens albumin. Thus we say meats are rendered less digestible by cooking. Cooking is necessary, however, to remove the danger of poisonous germs. The woody fibre of vegetables is softened by moist, slow cooking, the starch cells are ruptured, and the whole is made more easy of digestion. A slow, moist heat softens the fibre of meat; an intense heat hardens and toughens it. Meat slowly cooked at a temperature of 180° Fahr. becomes tender, juicy and easily digested; when boiled at a gallop the connective dissolves, the meat falls from the bones and into strings, but the fibre is not tender. Such boiled meat is leathery and difficult of digestion. The cooking of meat also enables it to be more readily masticated. In the raw state it is rather tough and can be torn apart only with great difficulty. One can easily observe this by the method in which the lion pulls the flesh from the bones while he is eating. Albumin exists in the juices of meat as well as in the blood, and unless the outside of each piece is coagulated (“sealed”) at once, much nourishment is lost, but a continued high tem- perature is a disadvantage. The results of cooking depend much more upon the skill of the cook than the amount of money spent for material. A piece of so-called inferior meat in the hands of an edu- cated cook will be sent to the table palatable, sightly and nutri- 3 83 34 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK tious. But the finest roasts our markets afford are dry, tasteless and valueless when badly cooked. The most experienced chemist with all his modern appa- tatus cannot demonstrate the causes and sources of flavors. Practical taste and experience alone create and detect flavors— the cook holds the secret. The pleasure of eating, digestion and health depend upon the knowledge of the cook. Good, wholesome and nutritious food is always attractive, palatable and pleasure giving. Heat is applied to animal and all vegetable foods, either by boiling, steaming and braising—moist heats; broiling or grilling and roasting—dry heat in an abundance of air; baking—dry heat, as in an oven; frying—immersing in hot fat; and sautéing—cooking in a little fat. THE STOVES AND FUEL WITH WHICH WE COOK Combustion or burning means the rapid union of a substance with oxygen. The temperature at which the burning takes place is called the kindling point. The article burned is burned or oxidized. This burning is also called oxidization. Oxygen exists free (this means that it is not combined with other materials) in the air, and forms about one-fifth of its volume. Wood, oil and coal are composed mainly of carbon and hydro- gen, and are all incapable of supporting combustion or burning without the assistance of oxygen. Hence, all our household structures or stoves for the burning of wood or coal have a draft at the bottom of the fire-box. In gas and oil stoves oxygen is supplied through perfora- tions at the base of the burners. In a gas stove we call them mixers, or Bunsen burners. In an oil stove a perforated tube encircles the wick, allowing the air to enter equally at all points. This mixture of air with the gas produced by the burning wick gives the blue flame, the same as the burner on the gas stove. Where a balance is kept up there are no free particles of carbon to deposit themselves upon the utensils in the form of soot. Too much air hinders combustion; the direct pipe or chimney damper should be closed as soon as the fire is kindled. This METHODS OF COOKING 35 will save the fuel and keep up an intense and even heat through- out the stove. All properly arranged stove drafts are adapted to the size of the fire-box and constructed to admit the least possible quantity of air beyond that necessary for active com- bustion. The cook who opens wide the lower door has not yet learned how-to make or keep a good cooking fire. When the fire does not burn she gives it an occasional “poke,” which still further deadens it. Gas is the cheapest and most easily managed of all fuels, providing care is given to its use. A good gas stove well managed will, counting in the time for care and lack of dust, cost one-third less than coal. A good blue-flame oil stove is quite its equal as far as cooking is concerned, but requires more care, as it must be filled and have the wicks adjusted each day. In the hands of a careful cook neither gas nor oil stoves give off unpleasant odors. For all cooking purposes, a blue flame is desirable. For illumination, a red flame. Coal and charcoal are mostly carbon in rather an impure state. Hard or anthra- cite coal being dense, almost pure carbon, must be heated throughout before combustion will take place. For this reason, on kindling a coal fire some lighter material which will, while burning, heat the coal, must be used. When once heated to the point of combustion the coal readily takes fire, and other coal placed on top of the hot coal will, in turn, burn. Wood on top of coal deadens and smothers the fire. Boxes or stoves used for heating or cooking purposes are not complete unless they are attached to a chimney or flue. Flames tend upward ; heated air expands, becomes lighter and is pressed upward by te heavier air with which it is surrounded. The fire is kindled at the bottom of the stove where the cold air enters the fire-box, and this is also at the bottom of the chimney. Thus, as the air is heated, it is pressed upward in the chimney, causing a “draft.” The cold air coming in at the bottom in its turn is heated, and so keeps on this continuous pushing upward. The chimney also serves to carry off the poisonous products of combustion. Any interference with the upward tendency of the hot air causes the chimney to smoke. There are several causes for smoky chimneys. The rate of motion of the current varies 36 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK with the size, height or length and temperature of the chimney. A cold chimney, one that has been standing idle all summer, or a new chimney will smoke. The fresh brick and mortar are good conductors of heat, and absorb it so rapidly that the rising current becomes cold, condenses and obstructs the ascent. The smoke crowded underneath fills the chimney and is forced down and into the room. To avoid this, start a fresh fire with an abundance of light material, such as shavings or excelsior, until the chimney is heated and the smoke begins to ascend easily; then add hard wood or coal. It must be remembered that with this smoke come also the poisonous products of combustion, which make a perfect flue a necessity. The higher the chimney, the greater the draft. A brick chimney, however, may be so high that it will cool the air current below the top or outlet. For this reason, pipes of galvanized iron are used as extension shafts. High buildings and tall trees overshadowing a chimney frequently disturb the draft, which is another cause for smoking chimneys. The wind passes down the chimney with sufficient rapidity to cool the ascending air, which is forced back and down into the room. In wood fires we frequently notice volumes of flame coming out through the openings of the stove. Such conditions can be regulated only by extensions to the chimney. An ordinary cook stove with such a draft would, on a quiet day, bake beauti- fully, but never when the wind is blowing. To condemn a stove thus placed would be folly. In this country there are very few ill-constructed cooking-stoves; the defects are usually in the chimneys. Chimneys built on the south or east side of a house give less trouble than those on the west or north side. The cold air is apt to chill them. When there are two fireplaces in the house, or a fireplace below and a stove entering the chimney above, the fire in one or the other will not burn well unless the one not used is closed. For example, if a fire is lighted on the first floor and the stove or pipe hole is open on the second, the current is interrupted and the room will fill with smoke and gas. This difficulty will be remedied by keeping the stove closed on the second floor while the fire is burning on the first floor, or closing the METHODS OF COOKING 37 chimney place below, or lighting a fire in it when there is a fire on the second floor. Air entering a flue or stovepipe horizon- tally will also interrupt the draft. For this reason a damper in the stovepipe is used to cool off or check the fire. Anthracite coal being nearly solid carbon may be arranged to “keep.” To accomplish this, lift the lid on the top of the stove, or open a little damper at the top of the fire-box; this will allow cold air to enter, pass over the upper surface of the coal, chill it, and prevent rapid burning. As this is imperfect com- bustion, great care must be taken to have the chimney flue open, that the products of combustion may not come out into the room. Carbon-monoxide, the product of imperfect combustion, is a colorless, odorless, poisonous gas. Being an accumulative poison it is still more dangerous. As hard coal contains a little sulphur, the odor of the sulphur is noticed, when the drafts are imperfect, which is like the sounding of an alarm-bell, for carbon-monoxide is found in its company. Gas stoves used continually for cooking purposes must, like coal stoves, be attached to a chimney to carry off the poisonous products of combustion. There is less danger in summer, when all doors and windows are open, GAS COOKERY The application of heat is just the same, no matter what fuel is used. Oil, gas, wood or coal gives about the same result, when managed by a trained housewife. Gas cooking is the ideal cooking. It is economical and cleanly, two very important points. Roasting and broiling in a gas stove are done under- neath the gas jets, in other words in the lower oven, by some called the broiling oven or broiling chamber. The oven must be heated for five or eight minutes before using. Where economy of space must be observed a small flat top gas stove with three burners with a steam cooker and a portable oven, will easily serve a family of six to eight. The baking is done precisely the same as in any other stove. Heat all ovens thoroughly before putting in the articles. Some cakes require 38 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK a cool oven, but even then the jets must be lighted a few minutes before using the oven. For meats and all articles requiring a very hot oven, light the gas five minutes before using the oven, from three to four if a cool oven is called for. To use gas economically, one must always keep in mind the capacity of a single burner. The gas must be lighted when you are ready to use it, and turned out the moment you have fin- ished. Under such circumstances, taking also into considera- tion that it does not require time for replenishing, as an oil, coal or wood stove, and there is no dust or ashes to remove, gas is the cheapest of all fuels. In preparing a dinner on a gas stove, select vegetables that may be cooked in the oven, and meat cooked in the underneath oven or broiling chamber, or materials that may be cooked in a steam cooker on top of the stove on a single burner. By paying attention to details of this kind a gas range may be used, the necessary water heated for scullery and laundry purposes, at a cost of not over $10 per quarter; much cheaper than coal for the same amount of work. A sample dinner prepared at a minimum cost: Cream of Pea Soup Broiled Steak Baked Potatoes Scalloped Tomatoes Salad Mock Charlotte First prepare the charlotte. In so doing, use one burner on the top of the stove, allowing five minutes for its use. An hour before dinner time, light the oven burners; when the indi- cator registers 9, wash the potatoes, put them in a baking pan and in the oven on the grate. Prepare the scalloped tomatoes, stand them aside as they require but twenty minutes cooking. Trim and wipe the steak ready for broiling. It will require fifteen minutes, and the broiling chamber is already heated. Light a top burner for the pea soup, which will be made while you are broiling the steak, if canned peas are used; if fresh, allow fifteen minutes for the first boiling of the peas, press them through a colander, and finish while the steak is broiling. gt a3eg Zulloig pue 3uryeg JoJeIIpuy JO JaJawWOWIeyT Surmmoys 3A01S sey 2A01G sey METHODS OF COOKING 39 Twenty minutes before dinner place the tomatoes in the oven. In five minutes put the steak underneath. Now finish up the soup. Turn out the burner, the water in the under boiler will keep it sufficiently hot. The potatoes are done. Take each one carefully in a napkin; press it until it is perfectly soft within the skin, being careful not to break the skin, and dish them on a folded napkin. Dish and season the steak. Turn cut the oven burners at once. Place everything in the oven to keep warm while the soup is being served. The cooking of all this dinner, if carefully managed, will cost not more than five cents. Let us observe for a moment the reverse of this meal. We will have boiled or mashed potatoes ; these will require an extra burner. Select stewed tomatoes instead of baked. These will take another burner. The soup will take the third, and the oven will be lighted for twenty or twenty-five minutes for heating and broiling the steak. It can be seen at a glance that seven or eight cents will be required against the five cents in the first case. Large gas bills are not, as a rule, caused by the stove or the meter, but the lack of thought or knowledge of the cook. Where long, slow cooking becomes necessary, as in the making of stock and the cooking of cereals, use the simmering burner, after the articles have first been brought to boiling point. On baking days where six or eight loaves of bread must be baked at one time, put four on the underneath grate and four on the upper grate. After the bread has been baking fifteen minutes change the upper for the under row; turn down the burners to the minimum and bake slowly after the loaves have all been nicely browned. When using the oven for baking purposes, it is wise to select a small roast or a steak for the dinner, as these can be roasted or broiled underneath, thus again making double use of the oven burners. When baking cakes or cinnamon bun, that require a slow fire, chicken or fricandeau may be cooked underneath. A slow fire is much the better roasting fire. In baking, light the oven burners at least five minutes before putting the articles in the oven. Meats or poultry require a very quick oven. Heat the oven until the indicator points to 12; continue at full heat until the 40 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK meat is seared on the outside, then turn down the gas until the hand runs back to 8 and cook slowly fifteen minutes to each pound. For pastry the indicator should point to 10; bake at this temperature for five minutes, then cool to 9 and finish the baking. Bread in square loaves does not require extreme heat. The indicator should register 8 during the entire baking. For large loaves, gradually increase to 9, at which point the baking will be finished. For angel food, sunshine and sponge cake, start at 6; increase the heat slowly for 20 minutes until it registers 8; finish cooking at this point. Three-quarters of an hour is the time allowed for the baking. For cakes containing butter, heat to 6 before putting in the cakes; after twenty min- utes increase the heat to 8, and finish. Bake a cup, or pound cake at slow heat, register at -7, for two hours, TO BROIL STEAK Light the oven burners at least five minutes before the time for broiling. Allow twelve to fifteen minutes for a steak an inch and a half thick. When the rack and pan are hot, place the steak on the rack, and put it as near the flames as possible without having it touch. As soon as it is seared and brown on one side, turn, sear and brown on the other. Now turn again. Remove the rack three or four slides down, but do not reduce the heat. Cook for five minutes; turn the steak and broil for five minutes longer and it is ready to season and serve. A steak properly broiled will be “ done” throughout, rare and juicy, not raw or purple in the middle, as is usually the case over a coal fire. Broil chops the same as steak. For broiling or planking fish, heat the oven five minutes, and place the fish flesh side up; when nicely browned, turn down the burners and cook slowly for a half hour. Fish cooked under the gas is most delicious. In these days good cooks no longer guess at oven tempera- tures. They have positive results; gas, as well as wear and tear on one’s nerves, are saved. One knows when the oven is ready, how much to reduce the heat, and how to regulate until the METHODS OF COOKING 41 baking is done. There is no opening or closing of the doors, allowing the escape of the heat during baking. The tempera- tures given above are exclusively for gas cooking. BOILING It may seem presumptuous to suggest that few people know how to boil water, but such is the case. During my experience as a teacher, which extends over a period of twenty years, I can safely say that not more than fifty ladies applying for admis- sion to my school have been able to tell what is meant by the “boiling of water,” or the different temperatures at which it boils, and why, and what chemical changes take place during and after the boiling. We boil water in the kitchen for two purposes: for the cooking of the water itself frequently to remove dangerous germs, and for the purpose of cooking other materials. The average housewife—I am speaking now of the masses—has few conveniences for experimental examinations, hence she must take a great deal for granted. The boiling point, under ordinary atmospheric pressure (sea level), is 212° Fahr.; this point changes according to the altitude. When bubbles form on the bottom of the kettle, come clear to the sur- face and rupture quietly without making an ebullition, the water is simmering. At this point the thermometer should register 180° Fahr., and it is at this temperature that we cook meats and make soups. When the bubbles begin to form on the sides and bottom of the vessel and come toward the top of the water, there is a motion in the water, but it is not really boiling hot ; it is simply giving back the atmospheric gases which have been absorbed within. It is only when the thermometer reaches 212° Fahr. and the water is in rapid motion that it can be called boiling water, and the atmospheric gases still continue to be given off with the steam for a considerable time after the water has commenced to boil rapidly; in fact, it is difficult to deter- mine when the last traces have been expelled. It is safe to suppose, however, that ten minutes’ boiling will free the water from its gases, make it tasteless and render it unfit for the making of tea, coffee or other light infusions of delicate materials, By filtering boiled water, allowing it to drop from 42 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK x an upper into a lower vessel, it will be aerated and assume its original flavor. Boiled water is flat. The mineral matter in this water, which is calcareous, is precipitated. Our tea-kettle, if not cleaned daily, becomes encrusted with these materials. We speak of boiling meats, boiling eggs, boiling vegetables, but we know that these materials are much better when cooked in water below the boiling point. But it is very difficult to get rid of the term “boiled.” Boiled meat is not boiled at all, but is cooked far below the boiling point that the fibre may be softened and the meat made tender. The meat itself does not boil, even if the water surrounding it is boiling. Boil a piece of meat at full gallop for thirty minutes, after the meat has been thor- oughly heated, plunge a thermometer into the centre of the meat, and to your surprise it will not register over 170° Fahr. Meats baked in very hot ovens register about the same. Boiling is one of the simplest and best methods of cooking the so-called inferior pieces of meat, and consists in plunging the whole piece into a large kettle of boiling water. The meat must be entirely covered, boiling rapidly for five minutes, the temperature of the water then lowered to 160° or 180° Fahr., and the cooking continued at this temperature. Some cooks lower the water to 130°, especially for mutton. Meat loses greater weight in the boiling than by any other process. The better pieces of meat, such as the round and shoulder, lose about twenty-five per cent., and such a piece as the brisket, being rich in fat, loses forty per cent. Four pounds of beef will lose one pound. Four pounds of mutton will lose fourteen ounces. Salt meats that have already parted with a large portion of their juices must be thoroughly washed in cold water and put on‘to boil in cold water; the water in which they were boiled may be saved for other purposes. All water in which meats are boiled should be saved for stock and sauces. For soups, start always with cold water. All vegetables go over the fire in boiling water; there is no exception to this rule. Such as turnips, cauliflower, cabbage and Brussels sprouts, after the first boil, must be cooked slowly in an uncovered kettle, METHODS OF COOKING 43 Rice and macaroni boil rapidly, not that rapidly boiling water gives a greater degree of heat, but the motion washes apart or separates the particles or grains. Rice cooked slowly in a small quantity of water is heavy and unsightly. STEAMING Steaming is an admirable method of cooking tough meats or hams, fruit cakes, puddings and things requiring a long, moist heat. Modern housewives use for this purpose a “cooker” or sterilizer. The old-fashioned perforated steamer over a kettle of boiling water will, however, answer every purpose. Steam- ing requires a little longer time than boiling. Potatoes, rice, peas, beans, corn, squash, cucumbers and pumpkins may be steamed. Materials never boil in a double boiler, nor are they steamed. Things cooked in a double boiler are cooked below boiling point. For making custards, scalding milk or cooking cereals, it is most advantageous, as it removes all danger of burning, ROASTING By this method the nutritive juices and the flavor extractives, are more thoroughly retained than by any other method of cooking. Roasting and broiling are practically the same, and mean to expose one side of the meat to the fire, while the other is exposed to the fresh air. The method is almost obsolete in this country, as conveniences for such cooking have gone out of date. In our hurried life such methods are too slow, except where the gauze door oven is used. Baking has almost entirely substituted the roasting of beef. Roasting most thoroughly and quickly seals the juices on the outside, forming a crust which acts as a barrier, preventing further escape of the juices. The meat loses less weight than by boiling, is richer and finer in flavor. Beef, mutton, game, turkeys or chickens, in fact all meats with the exception of pork and veal have the best and highest flavor when cooked in this fashion. The loss of weight in roasting is due to the loss of water and fat, which amount to about twenty per cent, 44 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK BAKING This is a method of cooking in the oven of a stove. It is by no means an inferior way of cooking meat, providing the basting is carefully done. We bake our bread, cake, potatoes and tomatoes, meats, poultry and game. Four pounds of beef will lose in baking one pound three ounces; four pounds of mutton will lose in baking one pound four ounces, STEWING OR FRICASSEEING , This is really “boiling,” in a sauce. After the meat has been browned either by throwing it into a hot pan or into a little hot fat, it is cooked in a brown sauce at a temperature of 180° Fahr. If the mixture is allowed to boil hard during the cooking it will become tough and shriveled. When properly stewed the texture is soft and loose and readily breaks down under masti- cation. This is why we are told that stewed meats are easy of digestion. Stewing is the most economical method of cooking meats. There is practically no loss. The loss in weight is not 15 per cent., and what is lost to the meat is held in the sauce, so that really one gets a full return for each dollar spent. BRAISING Braising is a cross between boiling and baking, a method largely employed in France; hence we take for granted that it must be an economical way of cooking meats. It is best adapted to inferior pieces, those requiring long, slow cooking. A covered pan is employed for the purpose, and in this country is called a “roasting pan;” but we cannot “roast” in a covered pan. The meat is placed in the pan, the pan partly filled with stock or water, then closely covered and placed in a well heated oven. The meat browns even while the water in the pan is evaporating ; tough or dense flesh, such as that found in old poultry or cattle illy fed, when cooked in this manner, is tender and palatable, hence more easy of digestion. It is also a choice method of cooking veal and pork. Flavor insipid meat, such METHODS OF COOKING 45 as veal, with bay leaf, carrots, onions and various herbs placed in the pan during the braising. The loss to the meat in cooking is held in the water or stock which is used for the sauce. BROILING OR GRILLING This is the same as roasting, applied to a smaller portion of meat. We broil or grill our steaks, chops, spring chicken and fish. FRYING By frying we mean cooking by immersion in hot fat at a tem- perature of 350° to 380° Fahr. There must be sufficient fat in the pan to wholly cover each article. We fry such things as cro- quettes, egg plant and oysters. This method is less injurious than sautéing. When fats are heated to a high temperature, fatty acids are developed, which greatly irritate the digestive organs. Fried meats are always to be avoided even by persons with strong digestion. They will in time produce disorders of the digestive tract. The art of frying is little understood in the average house- hold. The products of the frying pan are usually indigestible, greasy, unsightly and unpalatable. Fats over-heated, before the articles are fried, are most injurious. If too cool, foods are greasy and under-done. An article well fried will come from the fat as free from grease as though it had been cooked in water. A croquette that will soil the fingers as it is taken from the fat is not fit for food. Fried oysters leaving their marks on the serving plate are certaintly not palatable or dainty. Oil is the best material for frying. “Ko-nut” or “Nut-ko,” made from cocoanut, a cocoanut butter, is also excellent. The compounds sold under various names as cottosuet, cottolene and vegetole are mixtures of suet and cotton-seed oil, are wholesome and give better results than lard. Lard is last to be chosen, it absorbs easily, consequently is expensive. Foods fried in pure lard are greasy and rather offensive. All warmed-over foods, as croquettes and cecils, must be dipped in egg and rolled in 46 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK bread crumbs before frying. The egg rich in albumin coagu- lates, forming a thin grease-proof covering over the outside, as soon as they are put into the hot fat. Thus articles are cooked in fat without taking up the fat. This fat, when cool, must be strained and put aside to use over and over again, as long as it lasts. Ten pounds of fat will last the entire winter, and you may fry four or five times a week, if the digestion of the family will allow. SAUTEING This is cooking in a small quantity of fat. An omelet, lyon naise potatoes, hash brown potatoes are sautéd, not fried. Butter is usually employed for this purpose, but is the poorest of all frying materials, as it decomposes at a very low tempera- ture. Oil is more wholesome. LARDING By this we mean stitching a piece of meat with strips of fat salt pork. These strips are called “lardoons,”’ and are usually two inches in length and an eighth of an inch in width. The “needle” used for the purpose is called a larding needle; instead of having an eye at the end, it has four slits which fold together as it is pulled through the meat. Place the strip of fat pork down into the needle, take a stick as shown in the cut, pull the needle through the meat leaving a portion of the lardoon at each end. We lard sweet breads, game, poultry, veal and fillet of beef. It is not, however, at all _ necessary or obligatory that any of these shall be larded, but it is the ordinary method. People not using pork simply omit that part of the recipe, oF asvg Suipieq SOUPS SIMPLE UTENSILS FOR MAKING SOUP Perhaps first in importance for the making of good soup are the utensils necessary for its preparation. The juices of meat are acid; hence it is undesirable to use either tin or iron; even after a thorough cleaning, they will impart an unpleasant odor, and spoil the flavor of the soup for the person with a delicate palate. An ordinary granite kettle with a closely fitting lid will answer every purpose. If you can afford a little more at first cost, the one with an outside copper bottom will last twice as long, and is really more desirable. The bottom being double prevents the rapid boiling which is always objectionable for clear soups. Have the kettle sufficiently large to hold the bones, the meat and the water, and leave a space, of at least four inches, from the top. This will allow of easy skimming. As the ordinary clear soup is made from bone and meat, rapid boiling clouds the soup, making a clear soup impossible, without clarification ; hence the necessity for great care in making. STRAINING An ordinary colander may be used for the first straining, and after this a purée sieve. For a perfectly clear or brilliant soup, a double cheesecloth is preferable to a flannel bag. The objection to flannel is that it holds the flavor or odor of the soup, and is rarely thoroughly cleansed ; then at the next straining, it gives to the soup a stale, unpleasant flavor. Cheesecloth is easily cleansed; the fibre of cotton is more yielding than that of flannel. Use always cold water in making soups. As all the nourishment of meat cannot be drawn out into the water, the meat from soups should be saved and used for such dishes as pressed meats, sandwiches and curries, where 47 SOUPS 49 made nutritious by the addition of other materials; in them- selves, they have no food value, but are important at the begin- ning of a heavy dinner. While the fashion of having a dinner soup is confined to the few, the masses would follow, I am sure, if they knew the hygiene of the fashion. For clear soup, select either a plain stock, bouillon or con- sommé. The first may be made from fresh meat, or the bones from cooked meats. The latter method is recommended to those who wish to live well and economically. Bouillon is a light clear soup served in cups at the beginning of a luncheon. Consommé is the most expensive and the most tasty of all clear soups; it is always used as a dinner soup, STOCK Stock is the foundation of all the clear soups, and the very life and essence of all meat sauces. To make a perfectly clear stock use a shin of beef, meat and bone in proportion of one pound of meat to a half pound of bone. Wipe it carefully with a damp cloth; cut the meat from the bone; and then into small blocks or pieces. Put into the stock kettle two tablespoonfuls of sugar and one sliced onion; stir over a hot fire until the onion and sugar brown and burn. Throw in the meat, keeping the kettle still quite hot ; shake and stir the meat until it seems slightly scorched; then add the bones that have been well cracked and five quarts of cold water ; cover the kettle, bring slowly to boiling point and skim. Push the kettle now over a moderate fire where it will just bubble, not boil, for three hours. At the end of this time add one onion into which you have stuck twelve cloves, a bay leaf, a sliced carrot, a few green tops of celery or a half teaspoonful of celery seed, and a saltspoonful of pepper. Cover and simmer gently for another hour. These vegetables may be saved and used for purée. A wire vegetable ball is a convenience. Now strain the stock and stand it aside to cool. When cold remove every 4 50 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK particle of fat from the surface, and it is ready for use. If carefully made this will be clear, brown, transparent, and when cold a thick jelly. The meat that is strained from the stock must not be thrown away, but put aside for the making of pressed meats or curries. STOCK FOR CONSOMME This is, as a rule, of rather better flavor than stock made entirely from beef. Purchase a shin of beef and a shin of veal, or what the butchers call a “knuckle of veal.”’ Wipe both care- fully with a damp cloth. Have them well cracked; remove the meat from the bone, and cut it into blocks. Put two table- spoonfuls of sugar and a sliced onion into the soup kettle to brown and burn; then add the meat from-the veal and beef. When this is carefully seared, add the bones and six quarts of cold water. Finish the same as in the preceding recipe. STOCK FROM BEEF AND CHICKEN This, perhaps, is one of the most delicate of all stocks. Pur- chase a fowl that can be used as a boiled fowl for dinner. Draw and truss. Put the sugar and onion into the kettle as directed in preceding recipes. Cut the meat from the shin of beef into blocks; put it into the kettle until seared; then add the bones. Now arrange the chicken so that it will rest, as it were, on these bones. Add five quarts of cold water. Bring to boiling point and skim. Simmer gently until the chicken is tender, and then take it out for use. Continue cooking the stock for at least three hours; season and finish as in stock recipe. WHITE STOCK This term is given to stock made from veal and chicken alone. ‘Where one has a roasted breast of veal, the bones may be used with the carcass of chickens for white stock, for milk soups and sauces. Or you may purchase a fowl and a knuckle of veal. Frying Basket Frying Pan Croquette Mold Leg or Shin of Beef Page 49 SOUPS 51 This, however, would be an extravagant method, and only necessary in large establishments with large families. All meats used in soup may be made over into such dishes as curries and pressed meats. STOCK FROM BONES The economical housewife saves every bone left from the centre of steaks, the bones from roasts, the carcasses of poultry and the liquid in which they have been boiled, for the usual house- hold stock for everyday soups. These bones may be placed in the refrigerator from day to day until the allotted time for cooking. They must be cracked, placed in the soup kettle, covered with cold water and simmered gently for four hours. At the first boil, skim. At the end of the third hour, add the flavorings the same as in plain stock. The delicate flavor of each vegetable depends upon the volatile materials they contain. This, of course, is easily dis- sipated if the stock is boiled hard or long after they are added; hence the desirability of adding them just one hour before the stock is strained. If they are put in at the beginning of the four hours, the bitter rather than the pleasant flavor is extracted, and the soup will not be agreeable. Select ironing or baking days for the making of stock, when one is obliged to have long fires for other work; in this way both fuel and time are saved. Stock made from the left-over meats or bones is not, as a rule, as clear as that made from fresh meats. When wanted perfectly clear, it must be clarified. To clarify remove the fat from the surface; turn the stock carefully into the soup kettle, allowing the sediment to remain in the bottom of the bowl. Beat the whites of two eggs with the washed shells and a half cup of cold water. Add this to the cold soup; mix carefully; bring to boiling point, and adda tablespoonful of lemon juice. Boil hard for five minutes. Let stand a moment to settle; strain carefully through two or three thicknesses of cheesecloth wrung from cold water, 52 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK The albumin in the white of egg acts mechanically, entang- ling the floating particles in a sort of fine membrane which is formed by the boiling, and leaves the soup perfectly clear. Stock may be kept in warm weather, under favorable cir- cumstances, for four or five days; in winter, for ten or twelve days. The first thing necessary to the preservation of stock is the removal of the fat. Second, it must be cooled quickly after it is strained. In summer, it will keep much longer if the vegetable flavorings are omitted ; add salt and pepper only. BOUILLON 4 pounds of lean beef 1 tablespoonful of sugar 3 quarts of cold water 2 bay leaves ¥ teaspoonful of celery seed or 1 tablespoonful of choppedonion a few tops of celery 1 tablespoonful chopped carrot 2 whole cloves I blade of mace Grating of nutmeg Whites of2 eggs and the crushed I teaspoonful of salt shells A dash of cayenne Bouillon is a clear soup made from lean beef without bone. It perhaps has less flavor than consommé, but is in many cases preferable. It is not a dinner soup; but is, as a rule, served in cups for luncheons and suppers. Chop fine the beef, after having removed all visible fat. Put the sugar into the soup kettle; brown and burn, then throw in the meat and add quickly the cold water. Stir the meat and the water until the meat is reduced to a sort of pulp. Push the kettle over the fire; bring to boiling point. Do not skim, but push the kettle back where the bouillon will simmer gently for three hours, keeping the kettle closely covered. At the end of this time, add the bay leaves, celery seed or a few tops of celery, chopped onion, carrot, cloves, mace and grating of nutmeg; simmer gently for thirty minutes, and strain. Add to the bouillon the whites of the eggs, that have been slightly beaten, with the crushed shells. Mix well together, bring quickly to boiling point, boil five minutes, and strain through SOUPS 53 two thicknesses of cheesecloth. Stand aside to cool. When cold remove the globules of fat from the surface. Season with a half teaspoonful of salt, a dash of red pepper and a few drops of kitchen bouquet to each quart of bouillon. CHICKEN BOUILLON 1 fowl 1 teaspoonful of sugar 2 quarts of cold water ¥Y% teaspoonful of celery seed 1 blade of mace or a few celery tops 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Procure a nice fowl; draw, wash and dry quickly and carefully. Cut it into pieces, removing all the flesh from the bones. Put the flesh through the meat chopper. Put the sugar into the soup kettle, and when it is browned and burned throw in the chicken meat. Stir this around for a moment; then add the cold water and the bones. Cover the kettle; bring to boiling point and skim. Simmer gently for two hours. At the end of that time add the celery tops or celery seed, the mace, a bay leaf, and if you have it, a clove of garlic; if not, add simply a slice of onion. Simmer gently for thirty minutes and strain. This may be clarified the same as in preceding recipe, and served in cups for lunch. Season with salt and pepper. If care- fully made, it is one of the daintiest of all clear soups. CONSOMME 4a la COLBERT While the stock or consommé is being heated for dinner, care- fully poach a sufficient number of eggs to allow one to each person. When the consommé is hot and nicely seasoned, turn it into the tureen and drop in carefully the eggs; send at once to the table. CONSOMME WITH MACARONI Boil the macaroni first in clear water for thirty minutes; cut it into pieces, add it to hot consommé or stock. Any starchy or vegetable matter boiled in consommé or stock will cloud it. Spaghetti or any of the Italian pastes may be used in the same way, first having been boiled in water until soft. 54 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK CONSOMME A la DUCHESS ¥Y% cup of bread crumbs ¥% cup of soft cheese I egg 1 saltspoonful of salt A dash of cayenne Work together all these ingredients; form into tiny balls the size of small marbles. Roll them in egg and drop quickly into boiling stock or water. They cannot, however; be dropped into the stock in which they are to be served, or it will become clouded. Take them out with the skimmer, put into the soup tureen, pour over the hot stock and send at once to the table. CONSOMME WITH EGG BALLS 3 hard boiled eggs 1 tablespoonful of grated parmes White of one egg or soft cheese 2 quarts of stock 1 saltspoonful of salt A. dash of cayenne Press the yolks of the eggs through a sieve; add the salt, pep- per and cheese. Now add slowly the uncooked white of egg. Make this into tiny balls like marbles; drop them into a sauce- pan of boiling water or into a little hot consommé. Lift care- fully with a skimmer, put them into a tureen, and pour over the hot stock. CONSOMME WITH MARROW BALLS ¥% cup of soft bread crumbs % cup of chopped marrow ¥Y% teaspoonful of clear onion I egg juice 2 quarts of stock 1 saltspoonful of salt A dash of pepper Mix together the bread crumbs and chopped marrow. Season with salt, clear onion juice, and a dash of pepper; mix well and add gradually the yolk of the egg. Make this into small balls, roll them quickly in the white of egg, slightly beaten; drop them into boiling water. They will first go to the bottom of the saucepan, but in a moment will come to the surface. As soon as they float (about two minutes) lift with a skimmer and put at once into a tureen; carefully pour over the hot stock, SOUPS 55 CONSOMME WITH SUET BALLS 2 ounces of suet 8 tablespoonfuls of flour 2 quarts of stock 1 saltspoonful of salt A dash of pepper Remove the membrane from the suet, chop fine, add the flour, and the salt and pepper; mix, and add sufficient ice water to just moisten, not to make it wet. Make into tiny balls, drop them into a little boiling stock, and cook slowly for five minutes. Put them into the soup tureen and pour over the hot stock. CONSOMME WITH FORCEMEAT BALLS 4 tablespoonfuls of chopped 4 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs cold meat 1 teaspoonful of chopped parsley ¥Y teaspoonful of onion juice Yolk of one egg 144 quarts of stock 1 saltspoonful of salt A dash of pepper Chop fine any cold meat that has been left over, chicken, veal or beef. Four tablespoonfuls of this meat will make sufficient for six people. Add the bread crumbs; season with salt, pep- per, chopped parsley and a few drops of onion juice. Add the yolk of egg and work carefully until the bread is moistened by the egg. Form into tiny balls, drop into a small quantity of boiling stock. Push the kettle to one side of the fire where they cannot boil rapidly, or they may go to pieces. Cook slowly for five minutes. Drain, put into the soup tureen and pour over the hot stock. CONSOMME WITH ALMOND BALLS 24 almonds Stale bread crumbs Whites of two eggs 2 quarts of stock ¥% saltspoonful of salt Blanch and chop or grind fine the almonds. Mix with them the stale bread crumbs. Add the salt, and then sufficient white of egg to bind the whole together ; work well, make into tiny balls, roll them in the remaining white of egg and drop them quickly 56 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK into hot oil—do not use butter. If you are without oil, use your ordinary frying material, whatever that may be, either lard or suet. Shake until they are a golden brown; lift with a skimmer, turn for a moment on to soft brown paper and then put into the soup tureen and pour over at once nicely seasoned hot stock. CONSOMME WITH GERMAN FARINA BLOCKS I egg 4 tablespoonfuls of farina 2 tablespoonfuls of olive oil I quart of stock A half teaspoonful of salt Beat the egg without separating until fairly light; then stir in the farina, sprinkling it in slowly that the mixture may be smooth. It should be about the thickness of good molasses. Add the salt. Put two tablespoonfuls of olive oil into an ordinary sauté pan; when hot, pour in the farina mixture. Push it on the back part of the stove where it will brown slowly. This will take at least ten minutes. Then turn it as you would a pan-cake and brown it on the other side. Lift carefully from the oil and drain on brown paper. Cut into cubes of a half inch, put at once into the soup tureen and pour over the sea- soned hot stock. CONSOMME 8 la ROYALE I egg ¥Y% teaspoonful of clear onion I quart of stock juice 1 saltspoonful of salt ¥Y% saltspoonful of pepper Beat the egg until the white and yolk are thoroughly mixed. Add two tablespoonfuls of the stock, the clear onion juice, salt and pepper. Mix thoroughly and turn into a small custard cup. Stand this cup in a pan of hot water and cook in the oven until the custard is set. Turn it out carefully, and cut into dice. Or you may cook it in a shallow pan and cut it into fancy shapes. Put these blocks into the tureen and pour over the seasoned hot stock. SOUPS 57 CONSOMME WITH SPINACH BLOCKS I pint of spinach I egg 1 drop of tobasco I quart of stock 1 saltspoonful of salt Pick the leaves from the spinach. Wash them, throw them into a dry kettle and sprinkle over the salt. Stand the kettle over a moderate fire where the spinach will sort of melt; then push it over a hotter portion of the stove, stir for five minutes, drain and chop very fine. Press it through a sieve; add the egg, well beaten, a drop of tobasco and the salt. Put this into a small pie plate or pan, stand it in another of boiling water and cook in the oven until solid. Cut into fancy shapes or blocks, put into the soup tureen and turn over the hot, seasoned stock. CONSOMME WITH TOMATO BLOCKS For this use, if possible, tomato conserve. If one is, however, obliged to use canned tomatoes, take the thickest or best portion of the tomatoes; press through a sieve and then cook slowly to a thick paste. Take a half cup of this paste, add just a suspicion of ground mace, a quarter of a saltspoonful, salt and tobasco. Stir in the whites of two eggs slightly beaten. Pour into a pie dish, stand in a pan of water and cook in the oven until thoroughly set; cut into fancy shapes. Put the consommé in the tureen first, and then carefully drop in the blocks. Serve at once. CONSOMME WITH PEA BLOCKS 1 can of peas 1 saltspoonful of celery seed Whites of two eggs or a few celery tops 1 saltspoontful of salt ¥Y saltspoonful of pepper Drain the water from a can of peas. Wash the peas and press one-half through a colander. Season with salt, pepper and celery seed; or use a half pint of fresh boiled peas. This will make sufficient for twelve people. Beat in carefully the unbeaten whites of two eggs. When well mixed turn into 4 58 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK pie tin or basin, stand it in a pan of boiling water and cook carefully in the oven, When cool cut into blocks or fancy shapes and drop into hot, nicely seasoned consommé, CONSOMME WITH CHESTNUTS Shell and blanch twenty-four chestnuts. Throw them into a pint of stock and cook carefully until they are just tender. Drain and dust them lightly with salt. Pour nicely seasoned chicken consommé or broth into the tureen and drop in the chestnuts. These must be handled lightly, as they break easily. CONSOMME WITH CURRY 1 tablespoonful of butter I onion 1 large sour apple A sprig of parsley A sprig of thyme 1 bay leaf 1 teaspoonful of curry powder 1 tablespoonful of lemon juice 2 tablespoonfuls of rice I level teaspoonful of salt Put the butter into a saucepan and add the onion sliced. Cook slowly without browning the butter. Turn this into the soup kettle. Add the apple cored and slicéd; do not pare it; add all the other seasonings and the curry. Stir for a moment, and add one quart of good chicken stock. Cover, bring to boiling _ point and simmer gently ten minutes. Put the boiled rice into the tureen, strain over the hot soup and send at once to the table. SOUP JULIENNE I quart of stock 1 small carrot 1 small turnip 1 gill of green peas or asparagus 3 young leeks heads ¥Y teaspoonful of salt | A saltspoonful of pepper Scrape and cut the carrots into long thin strips. Pare and cut the turnip the same way; slice the leeks. Cover these with a quart of boiling water, and simmer gently until tender (about thirty minutes) ; then add the stock, salt and pepper. The peas and asparagus will be cooked in separate saucepans, and the SOUPS 59 water in which they were cooked drained off and thrown away. Add them at the last moment to the soup. Lettuce is also nice added to this soup. With a round cutter about the size of a half dollar, cut bits from lettuce, and throw them into the boiling stock just at serving time. BARLEY SOUP 2 tablespoonfuls of pearl barley I quart of stock ¥Y teaspoonful of salt ¥Y% saltspoonful of pepper Wash the barley in cold water, pour over boiling water, boil it rapidly five minutes, and drain. Cover it again with freshly boiled water, and let it cook slowly for at least two hours. Drain. When the stock is heated and seasoned at serving time, throw in the barley; let it stand for about five minutes, and serve, CLEAR SOUP WITH SAGO OR TAPIOCA For this select the coarse round tapioca. Wash thoroughly in cold water; cover with clear cold water, and soak for one or two hours, allowing two tablespoonfuls to each quart of stock. Add this to the stock. Bring to boiling point, and cook until clear. Add a palatable seasoning of salt and pepper, and serve at once. This is one of the nicest of clear soups, PORTUGUESE SOUP I quart of stock 3 leeks 8 nice prunes 1 teaspoonful of salt A saltspoonful of pepper Cover the prunes with cold water and soak over night. As a quart of soup is sufficient for four people, two prunes are allowed to each person. In the morning drain the prunes, add to the water in which they were soaked sufficient stock to make a quart. Add the leeks cut into two-inch pieces, and simmer until tender; then add the prunes, the salt and pepper. When hot, serve with long fingers of toasted bread. \ 60 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK CHICKEN SOUP WITH NOODLES This may be made from chicken consommé, or from the water in which a chicken has been boiled. When boiled chicken is to form the dinner meat, save the water in which it was cooked, and use it the next day for noodle soup. Do not have chicken soup and boiled chicken at the same meal. To each quart of strained and nicely seasoned stock, add one ounce of noodles. Boil rapidly for about five minutes and serve. CHICKEN SOUP WITH RICE This soup is not so clear when the rice is cooked in it, but the flavor is much better. Allow two tablespoonfuls of rice to each quart of chicken consommé or chicken broth; season, and cook slowly for twenty minutes. CONSOMME Aa ’PIMPERATRICE Y% cup chopped chicken ¥y teaspoontul of salt 1 level tablespoonful of flour 1 level tablespoonful of butter ¥Y% teaspoonful of onion juice y% cup of milk 1 tablespoonful of chopped ¥% saltspoonful of mace parsley y% pint of fresh green peas 4 tablespoonfuls of boiled rice 2 quarts of chicken consommé ¥Y% saltspoonful of pepper This is one of the most elaborate of all dinner soups. Take sufficient of the chicken meat which has been strained out of the chicken consommé to makea half cup (one gill). Put the butter and flour into a saucepan, mix, add one gill (a half cup) of milk, stir until boiling and add the salt, pepper, onion juice, mace and chopped parsley. Now add the chicken, mix thor- oughly, and turn out to cool. At serving time form this into small balls, roll in egg and drop each as dipped quickly into hot fat or oil. Drain on soft paper. Have ready the fresh green peas and rice that have been boiled carefully in clear water. Put the rice and the peas into the soup tureen, turn over the nicely seasoned hot chicken consommé, drop in the force meat balls, and serve at once. SOUPS 61 TOMATO SOUP I quart can, or one quart of I pint of stock or water stewed tomatoes I onion I carrot A few celery tops or a salt- 1 bay leaf spoonful of celery seed 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Add the stock and all the flavoring to the tomatoes ; cover and cook slowly for fifteen minutes. Rub the butter and flour together ; add them to this mixture; stir until again boiling ; and press through a sieve. Re-heat and serve with crottons. EGG SOUP I quart of stock 4 tablespoonfuls of rice Yolks of two eggs ¥Y% teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Put the rice in the stock; cover and let it simmer gently for twenty minutes; press it through a sieve and return to the ket- tle. Beat the yolks of the two eggs; add to them a little of the hot soup; turn this into the kettle; stir for a moment until it reaches almost the boiling point—do not let it boil, or it will curdle. Take it from the fire; add the salt and pepper, and serve at once. ENGLISH BEEF SOUP I pint of dice of beef I quart of stock 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 teaspoonful of kitchenbouquet 4 teaspoonful of salt A dash of pepper The meat for this soup is usually that strained from the stock. When cold, cut it into neat blocks. Put the butter and flour in a saucepan, mix, add the stock, then the salt, pepper and the kitchen bouquet. Bring to boiling point. Add the meat blocks and one hard boiled egg chopped fine. Put into the tureen half a lemon cut into thin slices and then into quarters; pour over the hot soup and serve at once. 62 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK OX TAIL SOUP I ox tail 1 teaspoonful of Worcester- I small carrot shire sauce ¥Y teaspoonful of salt I onion I quart and a pint of stock ¥Y% lemon A grain of cayenne Singe and wash the ox tail; then cut into joints; cover with the stock ; add all the seasoning and vegetables, and simmer gently one hour. Strain, and pick out the bits of ox tail; add them to the strained soup. Re-heat and put into the tureen the half a lemon cut into thin slices and then cut into quarters, and the Worcestershire sauce. If you use wine, add also four table- spoonfuls of Madeira. Pour over the hot soup, and serve at once. RABBIT SOUP 1 rabbit ¥Y% a lemon 2 hard boiled eggs 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped 2 tablespoonfuls of butter onion I teaspoonful of kitchen bou- 1 saltspoonful of celery seed quet or a few celery tops 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper 2 quarts of boiling water A bay leaf Skin, clean and singe a good-sized rabbit ; cut off the hind quar- ters and the shoulders, and divide the remaining part into three pieces. Put the butter into a saucepan ; add the onion, stir until a golden brown, being careful not to brown the butter. Roll each piece of the rabbit in flour; drop it into the butter, shake until a golden brown, again being careful not to brown the butter ; now add the bay leaf, celery seed and water; bring to boiling point, and skim; draw to one side and simmer gently for one hour; add the salt and pepper. Take out the rabbit; remove the meat; cut it into pieces. Strain the soup; return it to the soup kettle; add the meat, a teaspoonful of kitchen bou- quiet, and, if you have it, a teaspoonful of mushroom catsup. Put into the tureen the eggs and lemon cut into thin slices, pour over the soup, and serve at once. SOUPS 63 A GROUP OF THICK NUTRITIOUS SOUPS LENTIL SOUP ¥Y% pint of lentils I quart of stock or 114 quarts 1 small onion of water I sprig of parsley A sprig of thyme 1 bay leaf 1 tablespoonful of butter ¥Y% teaspoonful of salt 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 saltspoonful of pepper Wash the lentils; cover with cold water and soak over night. In the morning, drain; add the stock and a pint of water, or plain water, the bay leaf, thyme, salt and pepper, and simmer until the lentils are tender (about two hours); press through a colander, then through a sieve; return to the kettle. Rub the butter and flour together; add to the soup; stir until boiling; _add the onion grated. Turn this into the soup tureen; sprinkle over the chopped parsley, and serve with crottons, SPLIT PEA SOUP Make this precisely the same as lentil soup, substituting a half pint of split peas for the lentils. BLACK BEAN SOUP I pint of black turtle beans 14 quarts of boiling water I quart of good stock 2 hard boiled eggs 1 lemon 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Wash the beans, drain, cover with cold water and soak over night. In the morning, drain again, and cover with the boiling water. Cover the kettle, and boil slowly for about two hours until the beans are very tender; add the salt, pepper and stock. Press the whole through a colander, then through a sieve. Rinse the kettle; return the soup to it, and bring to boiling point. Cut the eggs and lemon into thin slices and put them into the tureen; pour over the boiling thick soup, and serve. If you use wine, put four tablespoonfuls into the tureen with the egg and lemon. 64 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK WHITE BEAN SOUP 1 pint of dried white soup 1 level teaspoonful of salt beans I small onion _ 1% quarts of boiling water I quart of good stock 1 saltspoonful of pepper Follow the rule for black bean soup, adding the onion grated just before the soup is pressed through the sieve at serving time. Serve with this crofitons the size of dice. Plain water may be used, in place of stock or water, and a teaspoonful of beef extract. VEGETABLE SOUP I quart of good stock I quart of water 1 small carrot 1 turnip Y% pint of peas y% pint of beans 1 tomato 2 tablespoonfuls of rice ¥Y teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Cut the vegetables into fancy shapes, or chop them fine. Cover them with boiling water; cook slowly until tender. Put in first the carrot, turnip, beans and tomato. Add the peas later, as they require iess time for cooking. Corn and white potato may also be added. Now add to this the stock, salt and pepper. The rice will be boiled separately in water, and added at the last moment. Being starchy, if boiled with the other vegetables, clouds the soup, SOUPS WITHOUT MEAT Under this heading will be placed all the cream soups and vegetable purées made from water. If thick soups settle, they are either too thin, or the sieve through which they have been strained was not sufficiently fine. DRIED BEAN SOUP I pint of dried white soup beans 2 quarts of water 1 large tablespoonful of butter 1 saltspoonful of bi-carbonate of 1 saltspoonful of pepper soda 1 teaspoonful of salt Wash the beans thoroughly: cover them with cold water and SOUPS 65 soak over night. Next morning drain. Put them in a kettle with two quarts of fresh cold water; as soon as they come to a boil, drain off this water and throw it away. Cover again with two quarts of fresh boiling water; add the bi-carbonate of soda, and boil gently until reduced to a pulp. Press the beans through a colander, then through a sieve; return them to the soup kettle; add the salt, pepper and butter, and serve at once. If the soup has boiled rapidly and becomes too thick, add water to make it the consistency of thick cream. SOUP MAIGRE I carrot I onion 3 or 4 stalks of the green por- 2 bay leaves tion of celery 2 tablespoonfuls of rice 2 tomatoes oracupofcanned 2 tablespoonfuls of butter tomatoes 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 2 quarts of water I teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Scrape the carrot and cut into dice. Peel and slice the onion. Put the butter into a saucepan; when hot, not brown, throw in the carrot and onion, and shake until they are a golden brown. Be careful not to brown the butter. Put everything into the soup kettle except the flour ; cover the kettle, and simmer gently for one hour; press through a colander. Moisten the flour in a little cold water, and add it to the soup; bring again to boiling point; press through a fine sieve, and serve at once with crotitons. If this is carefully made, it is one of the nicest of all the vegetable soups. VEGETABLE BOUILLON 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar I onion I carrot 3 stalks of celery or a salt- 1 head of lettuce spoonful of celery seed 4 good sized tomatoes or a pint 1 bay leaf of stewed tomato I blade of mace 2 whole cloves I teaspoonful of salt I saltspoonful of pepper 2 quarts of cold water ; White of one egg Put the sugar into the soup kettle; let it brown and burn; add 5 ’ 66 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK the onion; stir for a moment until the onion is brown; then add a carrot cut into dice and the celery; then the cold water. Now add the tomato cut into pieces, the lettuce shredded, the bay leaf, cloves, mace, salt and pepper. Bring to boiling point, and skim ; simmer gently for two hours and strain. Add the beaten white of one egg; mix thoroughly, and bring to boiling point. This time strain through two thicknesses of cheesecloth and it is ready to serve. PUREE OF VEGETABLES 2 tablespoonfuls of butter, suet, 1 large carrot cocoanut butter or olive oil I turnip I onion A sprig of parsley 1 tablespoonful of thyme 2 tablespoonfuls of rice I potato 2 quarts of cold water 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspooniul of pepper Put the fat into a frying pan; add the onion sliced, and cook to a golden brown without browning the fat. Turn this into a soup kettle. Add the carrot and turnip sliced and all the other ingredients; the potato may be simply pared and thrown in whole. Cover the kettle and simmer gently for one hour; press through a colander; add the flour moistened in a little cold water ; bring to boiling point; press again through a sieve, and serve with crotitons. ENGLISH PEA PORRIDGE 1 pint of split peas 3 quarts of water 6 leeks or 2 good sized onions 1 stalk of celery or a teaspoon- 2 ounces of bread ful of celery seed 2 tablespoonfuls of butter I pint of mashed potatoes 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Wash and soak the peas over night. Cut the onions or leeks into slices; cut the celery into pieces; put them with the butter in a frying pan; stir constantly until a golden brown; throw them into the soup kettle, and add all the ingredients, except the potatoes. The peas, of course, must be drained. Cook slowly SOUPS 67 one hour. If the peas are not perfectly tender at the end of this time, simmer gently a little longer. Press the whole through a purée sieve; return to the kettle, add the potatoes, and when boiling, season, strain and serve. This porridge should be quite thick, almost as thick as breakfast oatmeal. If it has the slightest inclination to settle, it is too thin; add a tablespoonful of butter and one of flour rubbed to a smooth paste, bring the porridge to boiling point, and serve. BROWN BROTH 2 young carrots I onion I potato 2 tablespoonfuls of butter I quart of boiling water A bay leaf 1 teaspoonful of kitchenbouquet 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Scrape the carrots; cut them into dice. Pare and cut the potato. Slice the onion. Put the butter into a frying pan; throw in the vegetables, and shake until they are a golden brown; then throw them into a kettle; cover with boiling water; add the bay leaf, and simmer gently twenty minutes. Press through a purée sieve. Return to the kettle; add the kitchen bouquet, the salt and pepper. Pour this into the tureen over a dozen cheese balls, and serve at once, SOUPS WITH MILK CREAM OF ASPARAGUS SOUP 1 bunch of asparagus I quart of milk I pint of water 1 bay leaf 1 slice of onion 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Cut the tops from the asparagus and throw them into cold water. Cut the remaining portion of the bunch into small pieces; add the water; cover the kettle and stew gently for a half hour; press through a colander. Turn this into a double 68 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK boiler; add the milk. Rub the butter and flour together. Take a little milk from the boiler; add it to the butter and flour, and keep on rubbing and adding until you have a paste. Now turn it all into the double boiler, and cook, stirring constantly until it is the thickness of cream. While this is cooking throw the tops into a little salt water; add a bay leaf, and cook carefully for fifteen minutes ; drain, throw them into the cream soup, add salt and pepper and serve at once. Asparagus contains a peculiar acid which easily separates hot milk; hence the curdled appearance if it stands, CREAM OF CORN SOUP 6 ears of corn I quart of milk A slice of onion 1 bay leaf 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Put the milk in a double boiler with a bay leaf and the onion. Score each row of grains down through the centre; press out the pulp of the corn, leaving the husk on the cob, and add it to the milk. Remove the onion and bay leaf. Rub together the butter and flour; add a little of the soup to make a paste. Turn it all into the double boiler; stir constantly for about ten min- utes; add salt and pepper, and serve at once. . CREAM OF GREEN PEA SOUP 2 quarts of green peas I quart of water I quart of milk 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper I bay leaf A small slice of onion Shell the peas. Wash the pods and put them into a kettle; cover them with the water; simmer gently for fifteen minutes; drain, saving the water; to this add the peas, the onion, bay leaf, and cook fifteen minutes; press through a colander; add the milk. Put over the fire in a double boiler. Rub the butter and flour together, add the soup from the double boiler a little SOUPS 69 at a time, and when smooth turn it back into the boiler, scrape out the bowl, and stir constantly until thick and creamy (about ten minutes) ; add the salt and pepper; press through a fine sieve and send at once to the table. There is no harm in re- heating. CREAM OF PEA SOUP FROM CANNED PEAS This may be made according to the preceding recipe by simply pressing the peas through a colander. Heat the milk in a double boiler, add the onion and bay leaf; add the peas and the thickening, and finish as directed. SOUP CRECY Save the water in which cabbage, cauliflower or Brussels sprouts has been boiled, and put it aside for soup Crécy. Into each quart grate two medium sized carrots that have been well scraped and washed. Stand it on the back part of the stove to simmer for one hour, then add a teaspoonful of grated onion, a level teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper and one table- spoonful of butter and flour rubbed together; bring to boiling point ; add a pint of milk, heat and serve at once, CREAM OF POTATO SOUP 4 medium sized potatoes I quart of milk 1 slice of onion 1 bay leaf 1 stalk of celery or a saltspoon- A sprig of parsley ful of celery seed 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour I teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Pare the potatoes, drop them into boiling water and boil rapidly five minutes. Drain, throwing the water away. Return them to the kettle ; cover with a pint of water, add the onion, bay leaf, celery and parsley. Cover the kettle, and cook until the pota- toes are tender; press through a colander, using the water and all. Put into a double boiler, add a quart of milk. Rub together the butter and flour; add a little of the soup until you vi) MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK have a smooth paste; then turn it all into the boiler; stir until the mixture thickens—not a moment longer; add the salt and pepper; press through a fine sieve, re-heat and serve at once. This soup may be kept warm in a double boiler for ten minutes, but cannot be reboiled. ARTICHOKE SOUP 3 good-sized globe artichokes 3 level tablespoonfuls of flour I quart of milk 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 bay leaf 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Wash and trim the artichokes; throw them into boiling water and simmer carefully for forty-five minutes. Take from the fire, drain, pull to pieces, and press, as much as possible, through a colander. Put the milk on a double boiler, add the artichoke pulp and the bay leaf. Rub together the butter and flour, adding a little of the milk to make a paste. Then turn the whole into a double boiler; stir constantly until it is the thick- ness of cream; add the salt and pepper, and take from the fire. Serve with egg balls, or chicken force meat balls. PALESTINE SOUP 1 pound of Jerusalem artichokes 1 quart of milk (about ten) 1 slice of onion 1 blade of mace 1 bay leaf 1 tablespoonful of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour I teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Pare and slice the artichokes and throw them at once into cold water. Drain; put them into the soup kettle; cover with boil- ing water and cook slowly until tender (about thirty minutes) ; drain, and press them through a colander. Put the milk over the fire in a double boiler; add the artichokes, the bay leaf, onion, mace; cover the boiler. Rub together the butter and flour, add a little of the hot mixture to make a smooth paste, then turn it into the double boiler, and stir continually until you have a smooth, rather thick soup; add the salt and pepper, and SOUPS 71 press through a fine sieve. Re-heat and serve with toasted bread. Cut the bread into cubes of two inches, put one in the centre of each plate, and ladle over the hot soup. CREAM OF RICE SOUP Y% cup of rice 1 teaspoonful of salt 2 stalks of celery or a salt- 2 tablespoonfuls of butter spoonful of celery seed % a good-sized onion I quart of milk 1 bay leaf 1 saltspoonful of pepper Wash the rice thoroughly; throw it into a quart of boiling water; boil rapidly for ten minutes and drain. Put it into the double boiler with the milk. Cover and cook slowly for thirty minutes. While this is cooking cut the onion into slices; cook it carefully with half the butter in a frying pan. The onion must be perfectly tender but not brown; add the celery and the bay leaf. When the rice is tender, press it through a colander ; add the mixture from the frying pan; return it to the double boiler, add the remaining tablespoonful of butter, salt and pepper. Press through a fine sieve, and serve at once. MOCK BISQUE SOUP I quart of milk 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 bay leaf 1 blade of mace % teaspoonful of baking soda A teaspoonful of sugar I pint of strained stewed toma- 2 tablespoonfuls of flour toes or a pint of canned 1 saltspoonful of pepper tomatoes 1 teaspoonful of salt Put the tomatoes into a saucepan with the bay leaf and mace. Cover and stand on the back part of the stove for fifteen min- utes. Put the milk in a double boiler. Rub the butter and flour together, soften it with a little of the milk, then add it to the hot milk, and stir constantly until it is of a creamy thickness. Strain the tomatoes into a soup tureen; add the sugar and soda, and pour in quickly the hot milk; stir lightly, and serve imme- diately. This soup must not be cooked after the milk and tomatoes are mixed; the acid of the tomato will curdle the milk, 72 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK spoiling the flavor and appearance of the soup. If you are not ready to serve the soup immediately, keep the tomatoes hot in one place, the milk in a double boiler, and mix them at the last moment, always adding the soda just before you pour the milk into the tomato, CREAM OF TURNIP SOUP 1 pound of turnips I pint of stock or water I quart of milk A bay leaf I small onion 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Pare and grate the turnips; add the stock or water, the bay leaf, onion and pepper; cook gently for twenty minutes; add the milk. Rub together the butter and flour; add a little of the soup to make a smooth paste; then turn the whole into the saucepan, and stir constantly until it just reaches boiling point; add the salt, and serve at once. Mutton stock may be used. CREAM OF SPINACH SOUP 2 quarts of spinach 1 tablespoonful of grated onion I quart of milk 1 tablespoonful of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Cut the leaves from the spinach; wash thoroughly through several cold waters ; throw them into a perfectly dry soup kettle that has been slightly heated ; push it over the fire, and stir con- stantly for fifteen minutes until the spinach is wilted and cooked. Drain, saving the water, which should be at least a half pint. Chop the spinach very, very fine, press it through a sieve, and return it to the water; add the grated onion. Put it into a double boiler with the milk. Rub the butter and flour together, add a little of the milk mixture to make a smooth paste. Pour the whole into the boiler, scrape out the bowl; stir constantly until creamy; add the salt and pepper, and serve at once. SOUPS 73° CREAM OF LETTUCE SOUP Lettuce may be substituted for spinach, using two good-sized heads. CREAM OF CELERY SOUP 4 heads of celery, or you may 1 teaspoonful of salt use the green outside parts 1 slice of onion of celery sufficient to make 1 quart of water a quart 2 tablespoonfuls of flour I pint of water 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 bay leaf Wash the celery; put it into a kettle with the water; cover and cook below the boiling point until the celery is very tender (about thirty minutes). Press through a colander. Put this with the milk in a double boiler, add the onion and bay leaf. If you wish to intensify the flavor, add a saltspoonful of celery seed. Rub the butter and flour together; add a little of the milk to make a smooth paste; scrape out the bowl into the boiler ; stir constantly until creamy ; add salt and pepper. Strain through a sieve, and serve at once. Onion must be used very sparingly in celery soup, as it easily overpowers the delicate flavor of the celery. CREAM OF BEET SOUP 4 new beets (one pound) 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 tablespoonful of arrow-root or I quart of milk cornstarch I pint of water 1 slice of onion 1 bay leaf 1 blade of mace 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Scrape and grate the beets into water; cover and cook slowly for twenty minutes. Put one tablespoonful of butter into a fry- ing pan; add the onion; cook until the onion is soft. Put it in a double boiler with the milk, bay leaf and mace; now add the beets. Moisten the cornstarch or arrow-root in a little cold water, add it to the milk, cook until creamy, add the salt and pepper and press through a fine sieve. Stir in the remaining tablespoonful of butter, and serve at once. 74 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK CREAM OF CHEESE SOUP Y pound of soft American 1 teaspoonful of onion juice cheese I quart of milk 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour I teaspoonful of Worcester- Yolks of two eggs shire I teaspoonful of salt Put the milk in a double boiler; add the cheese, cayenne, salt, onion juice and the Worcestershire. Rub the butter and flour together ; add a little of the milk mixture. When you have a smooth paste, scrape the whole into the double boiler ; stir care- fully until thick and smooth. Beat the yolks of the eggs with about two tablespoonfuls of milk; put them into the tureen, pour over the hot soup, and serve with squares of toasted bread. Large crofitons, almost the entire slice of bread, may be toasted crisp to the very centre, and one placed in each soup plate and the hot soup dished over them. This forms a delightful luncheon soup for children, as it contains much nourishment— milk, egg, cheese, as well as the carbonaceous foods, flour and butter, CREAM OF CHESTNUT SOUP I pound of chestnuts A slice of onion A piece of celery A bay leaf A sprig of parsley A dash of paprika 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 teaspoonful of salt I pint of milk Shell and blanch the chestnuts; cover them with a quart of boil- ing water; add the onion and celery chopped, the bay leaf, parsley and paprika; cover and boil gently for thirty minutes. Press through a colander; return to the kettle; add the milk. Allow this to come slowly to boiling point while you rub together the butter and flour, adding a little of the mixture to make a paste; then turn it into the kettle, stir and cook for just a moment; add the salt; press the whole through a fine sieve; re-heat and serve with crotitons, SOUPS 75 CREAM OF PEANUT SOUP I quart of milk ¥Y% pint of peanut butter I teaspoonful of grated onion A bay leaf or onion juice A saltspoonful of celery seed A tablespoonful of cornstarch or a little chopped celery A dash of paprika ¥Y% teaspoonful of salt A dash of white pepper Put the milk, peanut butter, onion and celery seed into a double boiler; stir and cook until hot. Moisten the cornstarch in a little cold milk, add it to the hot milk, and stir until smooth and thick. Strain through a sieve; add the salt, pepper and paprika, and serve at once with croiitons. CREAM OF ENGLISH WALNUT SOUP ¥Y% pint of shelled English 1 pint of water walnuts 1 tablespoonful of grated onion I pint of milk 1 level tablespoonful of corn- Yolk of one egg starch I teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Blanch the walnuts; put them through the meat chopper, then cover them with the water, add the onion, salt and pepper: cook slowly for thirty minutes, and add the milk. Moisten the cornstarch in a little cold milk, add it to the hot milk, cook until smooth, and pour at once into the tureen over the well-beaten yolk of one egg. CREAM OF OATMEAL SOUP 1 tablespoonful of butter Yolk of one egg I pint of cold cooked oatmeal I quart of milk A bay leaf 2 whole cloves 1 tablespoonful of chopped I teaspoonful of salt onion 1 saltspoonful of pepper Put the butter and onion into the soup kettle; shake for just a moment until the onion is slightly browned. Draw the kettle to one side, and let the onion soften ; then add the oatmeal, milk, 76 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK bay leaf, cloves; stir until they reach boiling point;. strain through a fine sieve, re-heat, add the salt and pepper, and pour while hot into the tureen over the beaten yolk of the egg. Or use one pint of stock and one pint of milk instead of all milk. SOUP SOUBISE 1 good-sized Spanish onion or 1 pint of cold water 3 ordinary onions 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 quart of milk 1% teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Peel and slice the onions; cover them with the water; add the salt, and simmer gently for twenty minutes; press through a colander, using the water. Put this into a double boiler; add the milk. Rub together the butter and flour, adding a little of the milk; then stir the whole in a double boiler until smooth and creamy ; add the salt and pepper; strain again, re-heat, and send at once to the table, GERMAN GRUEL SOUP 4 tablespoonfuls of flour I pint of water A sliced onion I quart of milk Yolks of two eggs 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper A dash of cayenne Put the flour in a baking pan in the oven, watching and stir- ring it carefully until it is a golden brown. While this is browning, put into the saucepan the water and the sliced onion. By the time the flour has nicely browned, the onion will be quite soft. Press it through a colander; add the water gradually to the flour, mixing all the while. Cook until smooth and thick. Put the milk in a double boiler; when hot, add it gradually to the flour mixture; cook and stir for five minutes; add the salt, pepper and cayenne, and pour while hot into the tureen over the well beaten yolks of the eggs. Add at the very last moment a tablespoonful of butter cut into bits, SOUPS 77 CREAM OF MUSHROOM SOUP ¥Y% pound of mushrooms 2 tablespoonfuls of butter (Agaricus campestris) I quart of milk 1 level tablespoonful of corn- 1 level teaspoonful of salt starch 1 saltspoonful of pepper Wash the mushrooms and cut them into slices; put them with the butter into a saucepan; cover closely and cook slowly for twenty minutes; add the milk, salt and pepper. Moisten the cornstarch with a little cold milk; add it to the hot mixture; stir constantly until the soup is of the consistency of thin cream; serve at once, with pulled bread. CREAM OF SALSIFY SOUP 12 roots of salsify I quart of milk 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of grated onion 2 tablespoonfuls of flour I pint of water 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Scrape the salsify, throwing them at once into cold water to prevent discoloration ; cut into thin slices, and put into a sauce- pan with the water and onion; cover and cook slowly for twenty minutes ; add the milk. Rub the butter and flour together ; add a little of the milk, making a smooth paste; then turn the whole into the kettle; stir constantly until it just reaches the boiling point ; add the salt and pepper, and serve at once with oyster crackers. A small bit of salt codfish boiled with the salsify greatly improves the flavor. SOUPS FROM WHITE STOCK The white stock, so frequently referred to in cookery books, is made from veal or chicken alone, or a mixture of veal and chicken. This stock is never used alone as a foundation for soup, but is substituted for water in the making of cream soups. For instance, instead of covering celery with water to cook for a cream soup, cover it with white stock, which, being rich in 78 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK gelatin, gives body to the soups. One rarely ever has to buy material for white stock; the skeletons of chickens and turkeys may be cracked, and covered with cold water, simmered gently for two hours, strained and put aside. If fresh material, how- ever, is considered preferable, a knuckle of veal is best. These sell in the markets at ten to twenty-five cents, according to the locality. One knuckle, well cracked, will make two quarts of stock, three quarts of water being added at first. Veal stock is, as a rule, used for the foundation of pepper-pot ; chicken stock is, however, much better. Wipe the knuckle carefully; remove the meat from the bone. Put the bone into the kettle and the meat on top; cover with three quarts of cold water; bring to boiling point, and skim. Push back where it will simmer gently for two hours; then add a bay leaf, a small carrot sliced, one onion with twelve cloves stuck into it, a sprig of parsley, a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper; simmer one hour longer; strain and stand aside to cool. When cold, remove the fat from the sur- face, turn out the soup (which is now a solid jelly) and remove all the sediment from the bottom. The stock may be placed aside to be used when needed. DUMPLING BROTH I quart of white stock 50 stet balls (page 55) 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Heat the stock to boiling point; add the dumplings, salt and pepper ; boil for ten minutes and serve. SOUP NORMANDY 1 knuckle of veal 3 quarts of cold water 6 ounces of bread freed from I onion crust 1 bay leaf 1 small carrot A piece of turnip 1 saltspoonful of celery seed 1 tablespoonful of butter or a few celery tops 1 level. teaspoonful of salt ¥Y% pint of milk 1 saltspoonful of pepper Wipe the veal with a damp cloth. Remove the meat from the SOUPS 79 bone; put the bone into the soup kettle; put the meat on top; add the water; bring to boiling point, and skim. Simmer gently for two hours. Lift out the meat carefully, and stand it aside to cool; add the bread, onion (sliced) and carrot (whole), and all the other seasonings. Cover the kettle, and simmer for one hour. Strain the soup; remove the carrot and put it aside; you will not need it for this dish. Press the bread and onion through a fine sieve, re-heat and add the milk and butter. This is one of the nicest of all the thick soups. The veal that has been taken from the stock may be used for curry of veal, boudins or pressed veal. SORREL SOUP I pint of sorrel I quart of white stock 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 tablespoonful of cornstarch 1 small onion or arrow-root 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Yolk of one egg Wash the sorrel carefully; throw it into a hot kettle; stir over the fire until it is thoroughly wilted; drain, and chop fine; then press it through a sieve. Put into the soup kettle the butter, and add the onion sliced. Push it to the back part of the stove where the onion will soften without browning. Add the sorrel and stock; bring to boiling point, and simmer gently ' for twenty minutes. Add the cornstarch or arrow-root moist- ened in about four tablespoonfuls of milk; cook until smooth ; add the salt and pepper, and pour while hot into the tureen over the well beaten yolk of the egg. SOUP a la SAP 114 quarts of veal stock ¥%Z pound of white potatoes 1 bay leaf 1 tablespoonful of grated onion 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 pint of peas A grating of nutmeg 1 level teaspoonful of salt Put the stock with all the seasonings and the peas over the fire; cook gently for twenty minutes; press through a sieve; return to the fire, and when boiling add hastily the potatoes that have 80 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK been pared and grated; stir until it reaches the boiling point; draw to the back part of the stove, and simmer for ten minutes. This soup will have much the same consistency as gumbo; it should be as thick as ordinary purée, and served with croiitons. MOCK TURTLE SOUP I calf’s head I pound of calves’ liver 1 calf’s heart 1 bay leaf I carrot I onion 1 turnip 12 whole cloves 4 quarts of cold water 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 tablespoonful of mush- 2 tablespoonfuls of flour room catsup 1 tablespoonful of Worcester- 2 teaspoonfuls of kitchen shire sauce bouquet 2 hard boiled eggs 1 lemon 2 level teaspoonfuls of salt (If you use it) 4 tablespoonfuls of sherry Have the butcher unjoint the jaws and crack the head into halves; wash it thoroughly through several cold waters; then with a sharp knife remove the skin from the head. Singe the ears thoroughly ; scald until it is thoroughly blanched. Put the head into the soup kettle; add the heart and liver that have been thoroughly washed; cover with the cold water; bring to boil- ing point and skim. Now add the skin; cover the kettle and simmer gently three hours; add all the seasoning, sticking the cloves into the onions. Simmer one hour longer; strain. Cut the skin into squares of about a half inch. Put the butter into another saucepan; add the flour; mix carefully and add the soup. When this has reached boiling point, add the mushroom catsup, the Worcestershire sauce, the kitchen bouquet, and salt; then add the skin and bring slowly to boiling point. Cut the egg into slices; put it into the tureen with the lemon, cut into thin slices and then into quarters, add the wine. Pour over the soup, and serve. The tongue, heart, liver and meat of the head will be saved for other dishes. SOUPS 81 A GROUP OF CHICKEN SOUPS It seems a great extravagance to boil a chicken for soup; better select a fowl of a year and a half or two years, truss it neatly, and serve it as boiled fowl with rice for dinner, save the water in which it was boiled to use for noodle or rice soup next day. In boiling meat, we use boiling water. In making soup, we invariably use cold water; here a weaker soup will result, because the chicken must be covered with boiling water to retain the flavor and make it palatable; but we have the addition of starchy food. After the chicken is trussed, put it into the soup kettle; cover with boiling water; bring to boiling point; push it to the back part of the stove to simmer for an hour and a half. Add an onion, a bay leaf, a saltspoonful of celery seed, a teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper. When the chicken is done, remove it, and allow the stock to simmer until it is reduced one-third. After the chicken has been served, crack the carcass; put it back into the kettle and cook it another hour. Strain and stand it aside. To make noodle soup, cook in this broth two ounces of noodle; rice soup, four tablespoonfuls of rice. SOUP 4a la REINE 1 3% pound chicken 3 quarts of cold water Y% pint of cream 4 ounces of bread freed from ¥Y% teaspoonful of celery seed crust 1 medium sized onion A bay leaf 1 tablespoonful of butter I small carrot I teaspoonful of salt 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 saltspoonful of pepper This is one of the most elegant of all the thick soups. Clean and truss the chicken; put it into the soup kettle with the water; bring to boiling point and skim. Simmer gently until the chicken is perfectly tender, about two and a half hours. Then remove the chicken, and boil the stock rapidly for thirty min- utes. Add the bread, onion, carrot, bay leaf, celery, salt and pepper ; simmer gently for thirty minutes longer ; press through a colander, then through a fine sieve, rejecting the carrot. 6 82 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK, BOOK Return this to the soup kettle. Chop the white meat of the chicken very fine; then rub or pound it to a paste;.add a little of the soup until it is perfectly smooth; add the whole to the soup, and press again through a fine sieve. Rub the butter and flour together ; add them to the soup; stir constantly until boil- ing, add the cream, and, when very hot, serve. ENGLISH CHICKEN SOUP The dark meat and carcass of 1 tablespoonful of grated onion one chicken or onion juice ¥Y teaspoonful of kitchen bou- » SOURING OF MILK t is supposed that thunder storms have an effect upon the sour- ing of milk. Experiments have proven, however, that such is not the case; electricity has nothing whatever to do with the rapid development of bacteria in the milk. But the conditions of the atmosphere preceding such a storm cause unusually rapid growth of bacteria. Sterilized milk is not affected by either the preceding conditions or the storm itself. To avoid such acci- dents, during the warm weather, cool the milk immediately after it is drawn from the cow, and keep it cold. Milk should be submerged in cold water, stirred until thoroughly cold, and kept cold. This milk is not in the slightest affected by thunder storms. Try the experiment. From the same dairy, cool one- half the milk as soon as it is drawn from the cow, and put in cool water or in the ice-house. Allow the other half to cool gradually, and then put it into a cold place. The milk allowed to cool gradually will sour quickly, especially during the “dog day” weather, even when there is no thunder storm, but just preceding the storm it will thicken at once. It is not the thunder, then, that has brought about the rapid growth of bac- teria, but the extreme heat preceding it. In the winter, souring may be hastened by adding a tablespoonful of thick, sour milk to the fresh milk as soon as it is strained into the pans for standing, . MILK 268 DIGESTIBILITY OF MILK Milk is said to be a stomach-digested food. When swallowed rapidly and taken in large quantities, it overpowers the diges- tion and renders the person very uncomfortable. It is not what we eat, but that which we can digest, that is true food. The value of food for nutriment depends as much upon how it is taken as upon its quality. Milk should be eaten, masticated, sipped slowly; then it forms an admirable food for children and invalids. A third barley water will aid in its digestion and make a better food for young children. TO SCALD MILK Put the milk into the upper part of the double boiler; put it into a saucepan and stand it in another of boiling water. As soon as the water in the outside boiler reaches again the boiling point, the milk is sufficiently heated. Milk never boils in a double boiler, but is sufficiently scalded for all practical pur- poses. The cooking or heating of milk makes it somewhat more difficult of digestion. There are exceptions, however, to the rule. The advantage is, that when milk is heated, people will sip it from a spoon; thus it becomes mixed with the saliva, and enters the stomach in a more digestible condition. Many per- sons can take fresh, warm milk with comfort, but could not pos- sibly take it if it was boiled. Scalded milk is always preferable to milk that has been boiled. TO STERILIZE MILK Pour fresh milk into perfectly clean bottles. Stop them with cotton plugs. Stand the milk in a sterilizer or steamer, and steam continuously for an hour and a half. To make sure that the milk is sterile, it may be put aside over night and sterilized for one hour the second day. It frequently occurs that the adult germs are more easily killed than the spores. Those that mature during the night are sure to be killed the next day, and thus the milk becomes dead or sterile. Sterilized milk is cer- tainly unfit for food for infants, and should not be used except in extreme cases of epidemics. If typhoid is in the neighbor- 264 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK hood, or if you are not quite certain of your milkman, it may be wise to sterilize the milk, but should only be resorted to as a choice of two evils. PASTEURIZED MILK Louis Pasteur, a French chemist of the latter part of the last century, found that almost all dangerous germs were killed at very low temperature; while more rugged natural germs would stand considerable heat. After long, careful and varied experi- ments, he found that milk heated to 165° Fahr. was practically free from all dangerous bacteria, and still retained a certain amount of its own life; hence the term pasteurization, which means heating liquid to 165° Fahr. Put the milk into bottles; stop the bottles with cotton plugs ; put them into water at the temperature of 155° Fahr.; increase slowly to 165° Fahr., and keep it there for thirty minutes. Be very careful that the heat does not go above 165° Fahr. This milk will not keep indefinitely, as sterilized milk, but is much better for infant feeding. KOUMYS Pasteurize two quarts of milk. When lukewarm (98° Fahr.), add one-third of a compressed yeast-cake dissolved. Boil together two tablespoonfuls of sugar, and two of water; add them to the milk; stir carefully. Put at once into bottles, cork, tying the corks, and stand in a warm place (about 65° Fahr.), over night, or for twelve hours. Then turn the bottles carefully on their sides in a cold place (about 50° Fahr.); let them remain twenty-four hours and it is ready to use. These bottles must be opened with a champagne tap. Small beer bottles with patent corks are convenient as far as the cork is concerned, but are most inconvenient to open, as koumys is highly charged with carbon dioxid, and the moment the cork is opened, the contents of the bottle will shoot to the ceiling. Koumys is more digestible than milk; by the slight fermentation, the formation of the gas, the casein or curd is broken up and rendered more soluble. It contains a slight percentage of alcohol, MILK 265 LEBAN Put into an aluminum kettle four quarts of milk; stand it over the fire where it will come slowly to the boiling point, and keep just below the boiling point for thirty minutes. Take from the fire, and when cool (about 100° Fahr.), add four tablespoonfuls of thick sour milk. Lift the skin that has formed over the top of the boiled milk at the side; put the spoon down and stir under the skin without breaking or tearing it, except in the place where it is lifted. Cover the kettle, in fact, wrap it in flannel, if possible, and keep it in a warm place (80° Fahr.), for five or six hours. At the end of that time, you will have a thick milk jelly. This may now be eaten just as it is, or the skin removed, and the whole whipped up with an egg beater. It may also be put into bottles, corked, and kept on the ice. Leban is without gas, and contains but a trace of alcohol. The casein is most thoroughly broken up, making it one of the most easily digested forms of milk. In fact, it aids in the digestion of other food, and is said to be a positive cure for intestinal indigestion. FLAVORED MILK In certain cases of sickness, where it becomes necessary to use milk as a continuous diet, it frequently is necessary to remove the odor or flavor of the milk. This is easily done by pasteur- izing it with raisins, or a stick of cinnamon. If the milk is to be taken warm, the raisins or cinnamon may be put into a double boiler, with the milk, heated and used at once, JUNKET 1 quart of milk 1 junket tablet 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar ¥% teaspoonful of flavoring Heat the milk to 100° Fahr.; add the sugar and flavoring, then the junket tablet dissolved in about two tablespoonfuls of water. Mix quickly and turn at once into the serving dish. Stand the dish in a warm place in any part of the kitchen until thoroughly congealed, about twenty minutes. Then stand in a cold place 266 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK until serving time. In moving this, great care must be taken not to shake or tear the jelly from the side of the dish, or whey will form at once, leaving the curd unsightly and indigestible. This may be served plain, or with cream. Sterilized, condensed, or evaporated milk will not congeal with rennet. They are dead, as it were; rennin acts only with living milk. If the milk, as soon as the junket is added, is placed in the refrigerator, it will not form a jelly. You have reduced it below the point nec- essary for digestion; and this congealing is but the first step toward the digestion of the milk. Junket may be flavored with lemon, coffee, chocolate or caramel. MODIFIED OR HUMANIZED COWS’ MILK Cows’ milk, even when diluted or partly modified, frequently disagrees with an infant. The following recipe may be used with good results. Be sure that the milk is of the very best quality, and is perfectly clean; that is, as clean as milk can be. Put two quarts of milk into a sterilized or scalded basin. Stand it in a cool place for two hours; then with a rubber tube, used as a siphon, siphon into another basin the ‘lower or under quart of the milk, leaving the cream or top milk in the first basin. Heat the under milk to 100° Fahr. (a little more than blood heat), add to it one junket tablet, dissolved in two table- spoonfuls of warm water. Let it stand for a moment until con- gealed, then break it slightly with a fork and strain it through a cheese cloth. Add this whey to the first, top milk; add two teaspoonfuls of sugar of milk, and a half pint of water, MODIFIED OR HUMANIZED COWS’ MILK, NO. 2 In cases of rickets, where a large amount of muscle and bone making food is indicated, it has been found desirable to add to the infant’s food the white of egg. This recipe has been used for many years by myself, and I have found but few cases where it was objectionable. Heat one quart of milk to 100° Fahr.; add one junket tablet, dissolved in one tablespoonful of cold water. MILK 267 Stir for a moment. When the milk is congealed and solid, break it with a fork. Strain it through two thicknesses of cheese cloth, rejecting all the curd. Put the whey at once on the ice to cool. Add a half ounce of sugar of milk, three ounces of cream, and one ounce of white of egg. The white may be dropped into a-fruit jar, a pint of whey added, and the whole shaken together, and then turned into the mass. This is also a valuable food for convalescing invalids. The cream and sugar of milk may be omitted in cases of typhoid. MODIFIED OR HUMANIZED COWS’ MILK, No. 3 For a very young infant, mix one ounce of cream with four ounces of milk, a teaspoonful of lime water, a level teaspoonful of milk sugar, and nine ounces of hot water. Use at each feed- ing one ounce of this mixture for the first week, feeding every two hours from five a. m. to midnight or one o’clock. CREAM TO WHIP CREAM The cream must be at least twenty-four hours old; better, thirty-six, and must be very, very cold. As soon as the cream is taken from the milk, or as soon as it is delivered to your house by the milkman, pack it in cracked ice and let it stand until very cold. The best churn is a small, tin vessel with a dasher made of wire. Turn the cream into this churn, which must be perfectly cold; stir rapidly for about three minutes and the cream will be whipped to the very bottom. The faster the motion, the quicker the cream will be whipped. Without a churn, turn the cream into an ordinary bowl; stand it in a pan of cracked ice or ice water, and beat it with an egg beater or a fork, or wire spoon, until the whole mass is perfectly thick. At first, it is wise to _ skim off a portion of the froth from the surface and rest it on the sieve. A small syllabub churn may be placed in the cream, and by rapidly manipulating the dasher, the whole mass may be whipped in a short time. It is necessary here to skim off the 268 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK froth as fast as it forms on the top. The reason why the cream so often “goes to butter” is that it is too warm, too thick or too new. It must be sufficiently thick to hold the air, but not but- tery. ‘ DEVONSHIRE CREAM Put four quarts of milk into a basin; stand it aside over night. Next morning stand it on the back part of the stove where it will come slowly to almost boiling point. Stand it ina cold place; then remove the cream carefully from the surface, and put it at once into a cold place. This may be used just as it is, in the place of butter. BUTTER BUTTER MAKING Among the ordinary farmers, it has been the fashion for years to make butter from sour cream, the cream taken from the surface of thick, sour milk, put into a stone jar,stirred every day as more cream is added, the churning done but once or twice a week. But it is everywhere recognized to-day that the so-called ripening of cream is simply an increased growth of bacteria. In fact, so much depends upon the number and the special variety of the bacteria, that we now have them separated and for sale, so that the farmer may ripen his cream in a few minutes by adding the proper species. If the cream stands too long, and the place in which it is kept is not thoroughly clean or is contaminated with vegetables, as is the case in many country cellars, the but- ter is bitter, and is not good. The fact is that the cream should not stand more than three days, should be closely covered, stirred each day, and kept in a place free from dangerous con- taminations. In many of the creameries sweet cream is used in preference to sour. The cream is separated from the milk by means of a “separator” and churned at once into butter. Such butter is sweet and delicious, but must be used at once or it will assume a sour or stale taste other than that which would have been imparted to the cream had it been allowed to stand before churning, The noted butter makers churn every day, and take MILK 269 back and use over the butter that has been standing in the open market more than two days. Butter is exceedingly susceptible to flavors, and must be kept in a place free from contamination. In winter at the ordinary farmhouse, where cream is cold, scald the churn; let it stand for a moment, turn out the hot water, and turn in the cream. The heat of the churn will be sufficient to bring the cream to a temperature of 65° Fahr., a good tem- perature for churning. After the butter has been churned, turn the dasher backwards and forwards for a few moments to “‘col- lect” it. Take it out; stand it for a moment in a very cold place. Do not wash the butter, as in this way it is robbed of elements necessary for its flavor and preservation. Begin now to work it, and work continuously and thoroughly until every particle of buttermilk is drained out. This is best done on a slanting board. You may use a corrugated roller or an ordinary paddle. It is the fashion to add salt, although it is much better unsalted. Allow one tablespoonful to each pound of butter. After this, work it for five minutes; make at once into prints, and stand away in a cold place. To wash soft butter, after it has been thoroughly collected in the churn, draw off the buttermilk and add water at the temperature of 50° Fahr. about one-half the amount of butter- milk withdrawn. Agitate the butter and water for just a moment; withdraw the water, and again cover the butter with water a little colder than the first. Agitate it again; this time the water will be perfectly clear and not milky. The texture of the butter is’ greatly affected by the temperature of the water. If on a warm day, the butter “comes” soft, the housewife too fre- quently cools it down by pouring over large quantities of ice or cold water, or throwing a large piece of ice into the churn. It is true, the butter quickly hardens under such a change, but is greatly affected by after temperatures. It is better to increase the coolness of the water in the washings, using the milder tem- perature at first. If by any accident the churn has been too warm, so that the butter comes in a soft condition, add a third quantity of water still a little colder than the second. TO COLOR BUTTER To color butter, add while working a few drops of annatto. 270 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK CHEESE COMPOSITION OF VARIOUS KINDS OF CHEESE (PAYEN) Roquefort Gruyere Edam Neufchatel Yrench Nitrogenous matter . . . . 26.52 31.5 29.43 8.00 Fatty matter... ...., 30.14 24.0 27.54 40.71 Mineral matter... ... 5.07 3.0 0.51 Waters 2 be ae ee 8 34-55 40.0 36.10 36.58 Non-nitrogenous matter and LOSSiie. sex nek a ae 3-75 1.5 6.93 15.80 Cheese is the curd of milk separated and pressed. This sepa- ration is brought about by two methods. In the country farmhouse schmierkase, or cottage cheese, is made from sour milk. The milk is allowed to stand until a thick bonny-clabber is formed. It is then slightly heated, which separates the curd from the whey. The curd is then strained out, mixed with but- ter and made into balls or with cream into a soft cheese, schmierkase. Such a cheese is rather more easily digested than the ordinary sweet curd cheeses, common store cheese, made from sweet milk, the curd separated by the action of rennet; then strained and pressed. Such cheese is sweet and palatable, but dense and difficult of digestion; should not be eaten unless in very small quantities, with a dinner salad with French dress- ing, or cooked and mixed with other food. Ripe or old cheese as Camembert, Gorgonzola, Roquefort and Brie, are sweet curd cheeses, put aside until “ripe.” The ripening is usually due to bacteria, in the Roquefort to a fungus. These are said to be more easy of digestion than the new sweet cheeses, as Neufchatel or cream cheese, and in small quantities aid in the digestion of other food. The casein of these cheeses is no longer in the same condition as in milk. During the pro- cess of ripening it has undergone decomposition, and new com- pounds are formed. The rich after-dinner cheeses are Roquefort, Camembert, Stilton, Brie, Gorgonzola, Schweitzer and Limburger. The medium rich, with keeping qualities, are Pineapple, Edam and English Dairy. These are also served with the salad course, MILK 271 or with coffee and crackers at the close of dinner. Parmesan, a skimmed milk cheese, with fine keeping qualities, and sap- sago, are grated and served with macaroni and other Italian pastes. CHEESE COOKERY It is not our mission here to deal with the making or keeping of cheese. The various state experimental stations, as well as the Agricultural Department of the Government, have put out from time to time carefully written bulletins upon these subjects. Here we will deal simply with cheese cookery, which is perhaps the most important part of its treatment, as it governs its digest- ibility ; consequently its food value. Cheese is a nitrogenous or proteid matter ; hence, it is a muscle or tissue building food, and is digested in the stomach. It is concentrated ; hence, must be taken in small quantities and diluted, as it were, with car- bon:.ceous foods, as bread, or rice. Among country people, new cheese is frequently eaten raw. By this we do not mean sour milk cheese, but cheese made from sweet milk and under such circumstances, it is most difficult of digestion. Being dense, even when thoroughly masticated, it is not easily soluble. Ripe or old cheese aids in the digestion of other foods, simply because it is rich in bacteria. It is an old saying that— ‘« Ripe cheese is a crusty old elf, Digesting everything but itself.’ This, however, is not exactly true, as old or ripe cheese has passed the primary stage of digestion. COTTAGE CHEESE OR SCHMIERKASE Pour four quarts of boiling water into four quarts of thick, sour milk; let it stand for a moment ; turn into a drain bag and hang aside over night. When ready to serve, beat well, season with salt and pepper, add cream and serve as a spoon cheese, or make into CHEESE BALLS To each pint of drained curd, add two ounces of melted but- ter, a level teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, and 272 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK two tablespoonfuls of thick cream. Work this until smooth and soft; make into balls the size of a tennis ball. This will take the place of cream or Neufchatel cheese, and may be served with the salad course. PARMESAN BALLS These balls must be used the same day on which they are made, and are passed with the lettuce course at dinner. Put a half pint of the drained curd into a bowl; rub it with the back of a spoon until perfectly smooth; add two tablespoonfuls of grated parmesan, and two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, a saltspoon- ful of salt, a dash of red pepper, and, if you have it, just a drop of green coloring. Mix well and roll into balls the size of an English walnut. Heap after the fashion of cannon balls, and stand away until very cold. WELSH RAREBIT Like every other cook, my own recipe for Welsh rarebit exceeds all others in quality. There is not a dish in the whole list that has so many methods of making, all more or less alike, but the simple change of seasoning gives different results. To each pound of soft American cheese allow a teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce, six tablespoonfuls of musty ale or beer, a saltspoonful of salt, a dash of red pepper, a saltspoonful of white pepper, a teaspoonful of horseradish, one clove of gar- lic. Chop or grate the cheese. Rub the pan or chafing dish with the garlic. Mix all the seasoning with the cheese. Put the ale or beer into the saucepan; as soon as it is hot and boiling, throw in the cheese and stir constantly and continuously until smooth and creamy. Toward the last, beat rapidly. Turn it on to a very hot platter that has been nicely covered with toasted bread. Serve at once. The yolks of two eggs may be added to the cheese before heating. MILK 273 A HOMELY RAREBIT I pound of cheese 4 tablespoonfuls of cream A teaspoonful of Worcester- Yolks of three eggs shire sauce Y teaspoonful of salt A dash of red pepper Beat the yolks of the eggs and cream together. Add the sea- soning to the cheese. Turn the whole into a saucepan; stand over the fire, stir and beat until smooth and creamy. Serve on toast at once. CHEESE PUDDING Grate or chop a half pound of soft American cheese. Butter four slices of bread. Line a baking dish with a portion of the bread, put over all the cheese, season with a little salt and cay- enne, then cover with bread. Pour over a pint of milk, let stand five minutes, and bake twenty minutes. CHEESE SOUFFLE Grate a quarter of a pound of cheese. Put a quart of stale bread crumbs and a pint of milk over the fire. Stir and cook until smooth. Add the cheese, cook a moment, season with salt and cayenne; take from the fire, add the yolks of four eggs; mix, and stir in the well beaten whites of the eggs. Turn into a baking dish and bake ten minutes in a quick oven. Serve at once for a supper or luncheon dish. CHEESE CROQUETTES, OR BALLS Mix with a half pound of grated cheese one pint of soft bread crumbs, add a teaspoonful of salt, a dash of cayenne, a tea- spoonful of Worcestershire sauce, and three well beaten eggs. Mix, form into small pyramids, dip in egg and then in bread crumbs and fry. Serve hot with salad course. CHEESE SOUFFLE NO. 2 Grate a quarter of'a pound of cheese; put half a pint of milk in a double boiler; add two tablespoonfuls of flour moistened in 18 Q74 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK about four of cold milk, add a little of the hot milk to this, then strain it into the double boiler; stir until thick and smooth. Add half a pint of fresh bread crumbs, the yolks of four eggs, and the cheese; stir over the fire for just a moment; take from the fire and fold in the well beaten whites of four eggs; turn into a baking-dish, or into individual ramekin cups and bake until a golden brown in a moderately quick oven. CHEESE FINGERS Roll out very thin good light paste, cut it into strips half an inch thick and five inches long, cover one-half of these with grated cheese, cover with the other strips, press together and bake until brown and crisp. Serve with salad course, CHEESE STICKS Cut whole wheat bread into strips same as above, and butter each. Rub together a quarter of a pound of common cheese, grated, a tablespoonful of tomato paste or catsup, a teaspoon- ful of Worcestershire sauce. Spread this out on the strips of bread and bake them in a quick oven until crisp, and serve with salad. CHEESE STRAWS Mix two tablespoonfuls of flour, two of bread crumbs and four of cheese. Put them on a dinner plate, make a well in the centre. Put in it the yolks of two eggs, a dash of cayenne, two tablespoonfuls of cold water. Mix and work in, a little at a time, the cheese mixture. The dough must be hard and elastic. Roll out into a thin sheet, and cut into tiny straws, or strips, four inches long and the width of a straw. Lift and place on greased paper, on a baking pan. Dry in the oven until crisp, but do not brown. Make a few rings and dry them also. Serve the straws in the rings like a bundle of faggots. Serve with salad. MILK 275 CHEESE CRACKERS Rub together four tablespoonfuls of grated cheese and two of butter. Spread this over any thin crackers, dust with cayenne and bake a few minutes in a quick oven. Serve with dinner salad. MELTED CHEESE Arrange squares of buttered toast on a silver or stoneware plat- ter, cover thickly with grated cheese, stand the dish on the rack in a hot oven, and serve as soon as the cheese melts. Slip the hot platter into another for serving. Do not transfer the cheese. A TOMATO RAREBIT Mix with one pound of soft grated cheese a half pint of strained tomato, a teaspoonful of salt and a dash of cayenne, and a cup of soft bread crumbs. Rub the saucepan with a clove of garlic, turn in the mixture and stir rapidly until hot and smooth. Serve at once on toast for supper or lunch. This has meat value. CHEESE TOAST Fill a heated platter with squares of nicely toasted bread. Put a half pound of cheese into a saucepan, add a tablespoonful of butter, and begin to beat and cook, adding, a little at a time, a pint of milk that has been thickened with a tablespoonful of cornstarch. When smooth pour over the toast. Serve hot. A nice luncheon dish. CHEESE MILK Cook one sliced onion in two tablespoonfuls of butter over hot water until a golden color, add two tablespoonfuls of flour, mix; and add one quart of milk. Stir until boiling; add a quarter of a pound of grated cheese, stir until melted, and strain. Serve with crotitons or on toast. CHEESE FONDUE Grate one cup of bread crumbs; use two cups of milk, rich and fresh, or it will curdle; a quarter pound of dry old cheese, 276 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK grated, three eggs, whipped very light, one smal! tablespoonful of butter, melted, pepper and salt, a pinch of soda dissolved in hot water and stirred into the milk at the last. Soak the crumbs in the milk; beat into these the eggs, add butter, seasoning and lastly the cheese. Butter a baking dish, pour the fondu in it, strew dry bread crumbs on top, and bake in a rather quick oven until delicately browned. Serve immediately, as it soon falls. VEGETABLES The American people, as a class, in their rushing and bustling life, prefer to take their nitrogen from animal products, which are rather more easily digested and assimilated than vegetables. It is a fact, however, that all the elements necessary for the building of the body are found in the vegetable world. Our working animals, “beasts of burden,” build and repair large bodies, under heavy labor, on materials from the vegetable kingdom. True, their digestive apparatus is rather different from man's, and is better suited to the dry, concentrated cereals. We do not, however, get from the animal a single element except that which the animal has taken from the vegetable world. His flesh is the result of the digestion of vegetable materials. Flesh is living tissue, the partly digested food, hence, more easily digested by man than vegetables at first hand. Meat is rich in water, containing less nitrogen than peas, beans and lentils, but in a more acceptable form to American and English business men or teachers who spend most of their lives in close, ill-ventilated rooms. There are many sides to the vegetarian question worthy of considera- tion. Our so-called food specialists are usually meat-eating men. Experiments with vegetable food are limited to a narrow range. I have not yet seen a single list containing nuts, cereals, fruits, nitrogenous, succulent and starchy vege- tables as a general diet. The true vegetarian uses all forms of vegetable foods; he does not try to live upon potatoes and so-called green or succulent vegetables. These do not contain nitrogen, and are insufficient to sustain life. Nuts well pre- pared and mixed with cereals, and such easily digested foods as rice give sustaining power not attainable by meat. Health and nutrition depend entirely upon the class of vegetables selected. The Japanese, who do in their country the work performed by horses here, are practically vegetarians. It is stated quite dogmatically that vegetables are less 277 278 MRS. RORER'S NEW COOK BOOK completely digested than meats. Such decisions are made after incomplete and short experiments, and cannot be sub- stantiated. Meat carefully cooked is more easily digested than some vegetables; but vegetables are clean and wholesome. Nitro- genous vegetables are slow of digestion; hence, the vegetarian requires but two meals per day; but in those two meals, espe- cially if his diet is well selected, he will receive more nourish- ment than from three meals of meat. Two points have been gained, time spent in eating and money saved. Then, too, he has had much greater variety. The vegetarian is not com- pelled to eat steaks, chops and roasted beef to be followed by roasts of beef, steaks and chops; but selects from a score of dishes made by blending different vegetables, nuts and fruits. Vegetable foods are not to any great extent digested in the stomach, with the exception of the leguminous seeds, which are rich in proteids. Vegetable foods call forth greater mechanical effort on the part of the stomach than meats. If a person has indigestion, meats are to be preferred. The amount of cellulose or waste in vegetable foods keeps up the peristaltic motion of the intestines and lower bowels; hence, vegetable eaters are very rarely troubled with constipation and torpid livers. Skin diseases are frequently due to a lack of green vegetables. An observer can readily understand, however, why we have grown into a meat-eating nation. A short visit into the house of a neighbor makes this point quite plain. The so- called cook, an uneducated woman who is perhaps a second- rate scullery maid, presides over the kitchen. She does not know the chemical composition of a single article she cooks, nor the effect of heat upon them. She does know how to cook meats; they can be broiled or roasted. These two methods form the limit of her horizon. Broiling intensifies the flavor of a steak, and with a little seasoning of salt and pepper, and a bunch of parsley, makes a palatable and sightly dish. The cook has given it little care and less thought. Not so with vegetables; they owe their flavor to volatile oils which are easily dissipated by careless or rapid cooking. Badly cooked VEGETABLES 279 vegetables are tasteless ; all the flavor has been cooked out and poured down the drain. Potatoes, a common vegetable, served in nearly every household once or twice a day, are seldom well cooked, palatable or sightly. Rice is almost unfit for food; in nine cases out of ten it is yellow, not white, heavy and sodden, a mass of wet starch. Few things show the dif- ference between comfortable and slovenly housekeeping more quickly than the dressing of vegetables. Vegetables are divided into four classes: Those rich in nitrogen, muscle and tissue building foods; those containing carbo-hydrates, starch and sugar; fatty vegetables, nuts and olives; and the vegetables containing water and mineral matter. In the first class we have peas, beans and lentils, and the chick pea of the East. Nitrogen is also found in goodly quantities in the cereals and nuts and glutin macaroni. In the second class, carbo-hydrates, we have rice, white bread, potatoes, the ordinary macaroni. Those containing mineral matter and water are the so-called succulent vegetables, as cabbage, car- rots, turnips, spinach, cress, lettuce and tomatoes. The nitrog- enous principles of vegetables are acted upon in the stomach the same as those of meat; the carbo-hydrates in the mouth and the small intestines; fats are emulsionized by the secre- tions from the pancreas and gall. There is no difference between meats and vegetables in the place or method of diges- tion. The effects upon the body, the time consumed, and the mechanical efforts of the body are, no doubt, radically different. Vegetables, as a rule, should be cooked in uncovered ves- sels, covering does not keep in the flavor. Rapid boiling ren- ders underground vegetables, as parsnips, carrots and turnips, tough. Cook them in water at 210° Fahr.; this softens the fibre and quickly renders them tender, and at the same time, they retain their flavor and color. Rapid boiling dissipates the flavor and spoils the color. Rice and macaroni should be boiled rapidly, not that the water is hotter, but the motion of rapidly boiling water washes apart and separates the particles. Both contain starch ; if allowed to simmer or cooked in a double boiler, they become soft, sticky, water-soaked and soggy. Potatoes must be cooked at the boiling point; this does not mean at a gallop. 280 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK All vegetables go over the fire in boiling water—this does not mean lukewarm or water that has been boiled, but water that ts boiling. To green vegetables add a teaspoonful of salt to each half gallon of water in which they are to be boiled. Under- ground vegetables, as the roots and tubers of plants, are best cooked in unsalted water. These are rich in woody fibre; the fibre is toughened by the hardened water. For instance, turnips are white, sweet and palatable, dainty and delicious vegetables, if cut into blocks and cooked carefully in unsalted water. Boil the same kind of turnips rapidly in salt water and notice the dif- ference—the first are white and sweet, the second, pink, coarse and unpalatable. It is a well known fact that all vegetables containing casein, as split peas, lentils, old peas and beans, are not softened in hard water. The salts of lime coagulate the casein and render it dense and difficult of digestion. Add a saltspoonful of bi-carbonate of soda to each half gallon of water in which they are boiled. This will soften the water and make vegetables tender. Do not add soda, however, to green vegetables. Onions, if carefully cooked in salted water, are delicious; they lose their sweetness and aroma when boiled in unsalted water. If green vegetables become wilted from keeping or dryness, put them in clear, cold water; do not under any circumstances add salt to the water; it draws out the juices and hardens the fibre. For example, cucumbers soaked five minutes in salted water are tough, will never regain their crispness, and are poisonous to a delicate stomach. Simple methods of cooking all vegetables are to be preferred. Carefully boiled or baked, and served with delicate sauces they are most attractive. It is said that all vegetables not containing starch are best and more wholesome served raw. The roots, as turnips, car- rots and beets, must, however, be grated or scraped. The dense fibre renders them difficult of mastication and digestion. To freshen wiited vegetables, soak them before cooking in clear, cold, unsalted water. For the convenience of persons who are on a restricted diet, the vegetables have been arranged in groups, that their chemical composition may be seen at a glance, VEGETABLES 281 BOTANICAL CLASSIFICATION OF OUR COMMON VEGETABLES Dicotyledons. CRUCIFERAE, Mustard Family. ‘Water-cress; Horseradish; Cabbage tribe; Turnip; Ruta- baga; Mustard, black and white; Peppergrass; Radish. CAPPARIDACEAE, Caper Family. Capers. Matvaceas, Mallow Family. Okra. GERANIACEAE, Geranium Family. Wood Sorrel, Nasturtium. Lecuminosak, Pulse Family. Soy Bean; Peanut; Kidney Bean; String Bean; Lima Bean; Black Bean; Pea; Chick Pea; Lentil; St. John’s Bread. CucurBITACEAE, Gourd Family. Pumpkin; Squash, summer and winter; Cucumber; Vege- table Marrow. UMBELLIFERAE, Parsley Family. This family contains many of the aromatic seeds. Carrot; Coriander ; Sweet Cicely; Fennel; Celery; Celeriac; Car- away; Parsley; Angelica; Parsnip, VALERIANACEAE, Valerian Family. Corn Salad. ComposiTaE, Composite Family. Jerusalem Artichoke; Globe Artichoke; Cardoon; Chicory; Endive; Salsify; Dandelion; Lettuce; Romaine. ConvoLvuLacEaE, Convolvulus Family. Sweet Potato. SoLtanaceak, Nightshade Family. Tomato; White Potato; Egg Plant; Chilli Pepper, in all its varieties. LapiaTaz, Mint Family. The leaves of the plants of thjs family are aromatic. Sweet Basil; Mint; Savory; Marjoram; Thyme; Sage; Stachys. 282 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK CHENOPODIACEAE, Goosefoot Family. Spinach; Beet. PHYTOLACCACEAE, Poke-weed Family. Poke or Scoke. PotyconaceaE, Buckwheat Family. Dock; Sorrel; Buckwheat. LauracEAE, Laurel Family. (This is not the family to which the mountain and sheep laurel belong.) Sassafras; Bay-leaves. Monocotyledons. ScITAMINEAE, Banana Family. Ginger ; Arrowroot; Tous-les-mois; Banana. DioscorEACEAE, Yam Family. ‘Yam. Lirraceaz, Lily Family. Asparagus; Onion; Leek; Garlic; Scullion; Chives; Shallots. PaLMACEAE, Palm Family. Sago (Dates and Cocoanuts also). GRAMINEAE, Grass Family. Rice; Oats; Wheat; Rye; Barley; Maize; Sorghum; Durra or Kaffir Corn; Millet. Of the many thousands of flowerless plants but few are used as food. In the Orient the young fronds of the common brake are used as a green vegetable, while the rhizomes are used as a source of starch. Some of the sea-weeds have proved valuable in periods of scarcity, while the Irish moss and dulse are used at all times. Many lichens have been used as dyes, but very few as food. Arctic explorers have sometimes been forced to eat various plants of this group. The best known lichen, however, is the Iceland moss. All the mushrooms and truffles belong to the large group of fungi plants void of chlorophyll. VEGETABLES 283 A GROUP OF STARCHY VEGETABLES Potatoes Sweet potatoes Rice Yams Hominy Tapioca Hominy grits Sago Italian pastes in general, as ver- Cassava micelli, macaroni, spaghetti Arrowroot Chestnuts Tous-les-mois This group contains all vegetables common to the United States, in which starch is the principal nutrient, and the cereals, chestnuts, and manufactured foods, as macaroni, etc., served as vegetables. Starchy vegetables belonging to the carbo-hydrates are fat formers, and heat and energy producers. They are digested in the mouth and small intestines; unless well masticated in the small ‘intestine only. POTATOES (Solanum tuberosum, Linnaeus) The portion of the plant used as food constitutes the tuber, an enlarged, or gorged, underground stem—the store-house for nourishment for the young plants. Many varieties, quite dissimilar in composition and general appearance, are grown in different parts of the world. Those grown in South America are of a rich yellow color when cooked, and much more dry and mealy than those grown in the United States. The German potatoes, imported for salads, are small, slightly yellow, dry and sweet. These are sold at ten cents per quart at the German delicatessen in all large cities. They are much better for salad than the American varieties. Potatoes should be kept for winter use in a cool, dry, dark place. Warmth, light and moisture cause growth and loss of nutrition, while they increase the quantity of solanin, a poison- ous substance found in all potatoes. This substance is in greater quantity in very young and old potatoes. Those ripe, or full grown, contain least, but in all cases it is dissipated or driven off in the cooking. Water in which potatoes have been boiled is unsafe for food; it should be thrown away. In making 284 MRS. RORER’S NEW. COOK BOOK potato soup, par-boil the potatoes for five minutes and throw away the water. The water of the second boiling is usually free from solanin and quite safe. Pare sparingly, as both nour- ishment and mineral matter are greater near the skin. Observe a cross section of a good full-grown potato; first comes the skin, then the fibro-vascular bundles, a narrow white layer, rich in starch and mineral matter, then the fleshy portion, in the centre of which is a watery core. The fbro-vascular layer contains nearly as much nourishment as the remaining portion of the potato. ‘As the flavor of potatoes is due to the mineral matter, which is in greater quantity near the skin, they are more tasty when boiled in their jackets. Carefully cooked they constitute a wholesome and easily digested starchy food. The amount of nitrogen is small, and does not belong to the flesh forming proteids. Potatoes can- not be depended upon as a complete food, but should be served with such nitrogenous foods as nuts, peas, beans, lentils, or lean meats. The food value and digestibility, however, depend entirely on the method of cooking. Baked, or boiled, mealy, not heavy, they are rather more easily digested than white bread or hominy; when fried or mashed and patted down with butter, served in a covered dish, they are less digestible. When fried, covered with grease, the primary digestion, which is in the mouth, is lost, as each grain of starch is surrounded by fat. The saliva cannot penetrate the fat in the usual time given to mastication, which leaves the entire digestion to the intestines ; the stomach has little or no action on potatoes, COMPOSITION OF POTATOES (Church) Water Sy Gre 1 HANES aiid OR od eh ee vgs Wu Gee Bote 75.0 Albuminoids .........-. 0 ¢°©= 2 = ..eae 1.2 Extractives, as solanin and organicacids ........ 15 Starch. eee als es et gh al ak ae Gs He oe oe a 18.0 Dextrin and pectose 2... 1 1 ee ee ee 2.0 Babs co) io. a lcay a ae eet se ROT SS ae ae seer SoS 0.3 Gelltlosé. ec. 5 oe a ES De ee » Lo Mineral matter . . Bandy, Weis ey GaP Dh Ket! ae tay Sn, 8a a 1.0 Very new and very old potatoes are scarcely worth the cooking. A potato sprouts at the expense of the starch, nearest VEGETABLES 285 the skin, hence, the potato withers, and the nutrition is lost. Old potatoes should be pared and soaked in cold water at least thirty minutes before cooking. Full grown potatoes do not require soaking. Potatoes belong to the carbo-hydrates, fat and energy pro- ducers, and are digested principally in the small intestine. TO BOIL POTATOES Pare the potatoes, remove the eyes, and throw them at once into cold water. Put them into a kettle of boiling unsalted water; boil rapidly for ten minutes, and then cook at the boil- ing point until the potatoes are nearly done; add a cup of cold water, this will cool the surface, allowing the centre to cook a moment longer and making the potato mealy to the very centre. As soon as the water again reaches the boiling point drain the potatoes perfectly dry; dust them with salt and shake the pot lightly over the fire. When they are dry and white, like snow balls, turn them in a hot uncovered dish and send at once to the table: If a “peeling” has not been taken off around the potato, the skin will burst—a well cooked ‘potato is too big for its clothes. Scrape, do not pare new potatoes. BAKED POTATOES Brush the potatoes until the skin is perfectly clean, rinse them in cold water. Place them in a pan or on the grate in a moder- ately heated oven; bake slowly until tender, about three- quarters of an hour. When done take each potato in a towel or napkin in the hand, press it gently without breaking the skin until it is thoroughly mashed within. Never stick a fork in a potato to see if it is done; this ruptures the skin, allows the steam to escape, and makes the potato soggy. If the oven is too hot, the skins will become hardened and prevent the evapora- tion of water; this also makes potatoes heavy, dark and wet. If baked potatoes are mashed according to directions, in the skin, they will keep in good condition, in a warm oven, one hour. To serve, place them on a folded napkin and send to the table, uncovered. ' \ 286 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK STUFFED POTATOES This is one of the best ways of using up cold baked potatoes ; potatoes “left over” may be cut into halves while warm, the centres scooped out, seasoned ‘with salt and pepper, then beaten until light; fill the “shells,” and put aside to be browned, at serving time. The well beaten white of an egg may be stirred in, if desired; but as potatoes are served as an accompaniment to meat, this is unnecessary. Serve stuffed potatoes with broiled or panned chicken. DELMONICO POTATOES 4 good-sized cold boiled pota- ™% teaspoonful of salt toes 4 tablespoonfuls of chopped or 1 tablespoonful of butter grated cheese 1 tablespoonful of flour ¥y pint of milk 1 saltspoonful of pepper Chop the potatoes rather fine. Rub the butter and flour together, add the, milk, and when boiling, add the salt and pepper. Mix with this the potatoes, turn into a baking dish. sprinkle the cheese over the top; press it down in the cream sauce and bake in a quick oven until a golden brown, about ten minutes. Serve with chops, or beefsteak. HASHED BROWNED POTATOES Chop two cold potatoes rather fine; add a half teaspoonful of salt, a half saltspoonful of pepper and four tablespoonfuls of cream. Put a tablespoonful of butter in a sauté or omelet pan; melt without browning; when hot put in the potatoes; smooth down, pressing them neatly into shape; cook for a moment over a quick fire, and then push to the back part of the stove where they will cook slowly for ten minutes. Watch carefully that they do not scorch. Then fold over one-half as you would an omelet, pressing them lightly ; turn out on a heated platter, garnish with parsley and send to the table. Serve with beef- steak, Stuffed Potatoes Page 286 VEGETABLES 287 POTATO BALLS Pare the potatoes. Press a small vegetable scoop, “ face ” down, into the potato, and give it a twirl, bringing out a perfect ball; throw these into cold water. When ready to use, put them in boiling water, boil for ten minutes, drain, dust with salt, and turn in a heated dish. Garnish with carefully melted butter and finely chopped parsley, or they may be boiled five minutes, drained, plunged in hot fat until nicely browned. These are served as a garnish or accompaniment to boiled fish. POTATO TIMBALE I pint of mashed potato 1 level teaspoonful of salt 3 eggs 1 saltspoonful of pepper Y% cup of cream 1 teaspoonful of onion juice A grating of nutmeg Beat the eggs without separating until well mixed; add the cream, then the potatoes and all the seasoning; beat until per- fectly smooth, and press through a sieve. Line the bottoms of small timbale molds with greased paper; fill them with the potato mixture, stand in a baking-pan of boiling water, and cook in the oven twenty minutes. When done, loosen the sides with a thin knife and turn them out carefully on a heated dish. These are much more delicate than potato croquettes, and one gets rid of frying. The dish may be garnished with nicely cooked peas, and the two served as an accompaniment to spring lamb, or lamb chops. POTATOES 4 la DUCHESS I pint of mashed potatoes 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 saltspoonful of pepper 4 tablespoonfuls of hot milk Add all the ingredients to the potatoes and beat until smooth. Turn the mixture into a pastry bag at the end of which you have placed a star tube. Press the mixture out in “ roses,” 288 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK and brown nicely in a quick oven. Serve as a garnish to broiled or planked fish. Or the mixture may be made into a fancy mound, browned in the oven, and served as an accom- paniment to roasted beef, crown roast, or roasted spring lamb. RAGOUT OF POTATO 6 potatoes 1 tablespoonful of butter 6 medium-sized onions or leeks % pint of milk 1 tablespoonful of chopped pars- 1 level teaspoonful of salt ley 1 saltspoonful of pepper Pare the potatoes, cut them into dice and put them into a sauce- pan. Peel the onions or leeks, cut them into slices, and add them to the potatoes. Cover them with boiling water and boil ten minutes; drain. Put the butter into a saucepan, add the milk, parsley, salt and pepper; when smoking hot, add the potatoes and onions, cover and cook over hot water for ten min- utes. At serving time add a half pint of crofitons, and send them at once to the table. A sort of chowder to serve in the place of soup. POTATO SOUFFLE 6 potatoes 1 teaspoonful of salt I tablespoonful of butter I saltspoonful of pepper ¥% pint of milk Whites of four eggs Steam or boil the potatoes in their jackets; when done peel quickly and put them through a vegetable press. Add the butter, milk, salt and pepper; beat over hot water until per- fectly smooth; then stir in carefully the well-beaten whites; heap the mixture into a baking-dish; dust with grated Par- mesan, and bake in a quick oven until a golden brown, about ten minutes. Serve at once as an accompaniment to baked spare-ribs, or beef, or in place of rice with poultry. POTATO CASSEROLE I pint of mashed potatoes Yolks of four eggs 1 tablespoonful of butter Y% cup of cream ‘Add all the ingredients to the potato, and beat thoroughly over VEGETABLES 289 the fire until the mixture is hot. Press it in a border-mold, or in an ordinary casserole mold, leaving the holé or well in the centre. Remove the mold, brush the potatoes carefully with white of egg, and brown in a quick oven. Lift carefully to a serving dish, fill the centre with a fricassee of chicken or rabbit, or a carefully made ragout of beef or mutton. A simple, easy way is to make the border on a platter or serving dish, and brown it in the oven before filling. POTATO a la ANNA 6 good-sized potatoes, chopped 2 tablespoonfuls of butter fine Y% teaspoonful of salt Pare the potatoes, throw them into cold water; take from the water, and chop them quickly or they will discolor. Put a layer in the bottom of the baking-dish, then sprinkle with salt, then a layer of potato, another sprinkling of salt until the dish is filled. Melt the butter over hot water, and drain it carefully over the potatoes, leaving the sediment of the butter in the dish. Cover, stand it in a pan of hot water, and bake in a moderate oven about three-quarters of an hour. When the potatoes are half done, stir them carefully ; remove the cover, also the water pan and finish in a rather quick oven. Dust the top with chopped parsley and onion juice, and send at once to the table. Serve with steak. BROWNED BAKED POTATOES Peel as many potatoes as are needed for the family, put them into a baking-dish; baste each carefully with stock or glaze; use at least half a pint of stock to eight potatoes. Bake in a quick oven basting frequently. While the crust or outside of these potatoes is rather difficult of digestion, the inside is mealy and delicate. POTATOES 4 la BORDELAISE Select small new potatoes of uniform size; scrape and throw them at once into cold water; put them into boiling water; boil rapidly for ten minutes, drain and dust with salt. While 19 290 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK these are cooking, rub together a tablespoonful of butter and one of flour; add half a pint of stock, a tablespoonful of chopped onion, a bay leaf, and, if you have them, half a can of finely chopped mushrooms, or two fresh mushrooms; bring to boiling point, add a teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet, and the potatoes. Cover and stand on the back part of the stove for ten minutes. This amount of sauce will be sufficient for a pint of potatoes. Serve with pot roast, or boiled beef, or braised mutton. POTATOES 4 la CREME 4 cold boiled potatoes Y% nutmeg, grated 24 cup of cream 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of white pepper Chop the potatoes rather fine, and add to them all the ingre- dients. Put them into small individual molds, and bake in a quick oven fifteen minutes. Send at once to the table. Serve with chops or broiled chicken. FRIED POTATOES I have not made this heading, approving of fried potatoes, but to say a word against them. There are so many delicious ways in which potatoes may be cooked, and in which they are easily digested, that it seems a pity to destroy their food value by dropping them in hot fat. Cold boiled potatoes are unfit for frying. The starch cells are already ruptured, and if the second cooking is done in hot fat, they become hard, horny, unwholesome and indigestible. If potatoes are to be fried at all, let them be plunged, raw, into hot fat at about 300° Fahr. Cut into blocks, into quar- ters, or “ shoe strings,” or into thin slices as Saratoga chips. They are indigestible in this way, but less so than those boiled and then fried. Potatoes cut into fancy shapes, plunged into hot fat until brown are used as a garnish to broiled steaks, and fish, VEGETABLES 291 STEWED POTATOES Cut cold boiled potatoes into dice; to each quart allow I pint of milk 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Put the potatoes and milk into a double boiler, cook for fifteen minutes. Rub the butter and flour together, add a little of the milk, and when smooth, add them to the potatoes. Stir lightly until creamy ; add seasoning and serve. A nice supper dish to serve with omelet. STUFFED POTATOES WITH MEAT Pare six good-sized potatoes, cut them into halves and scoop out the centres, leaving a wall a half inch in thickness. Throw the potatoes into boiling water, boil for ten minutes and drain. Stand them in a baking-pan. Have ready cold cooked meat finely chopped and nicely seasoned. Fill the potatoes with the meat, dust the tops with bread crumbs, put in the centre a piece of butter the size of a hickory nut, and bake in a moderately quick oven for a half hour. Serve as a supper or luncheon dish. POTATOES STUFFED WITH FISH Prepare the potatoes as in preceding recipe. Pick apart cold cooked fish and to each pint allow a half pint of white or cream sauce. Fill the potatoes, after they have been parboiled, with the fish mixture; dust them thickly with bread crumbs and bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. These may take the place of the fish course at lunch, or may be served as a supper dish. POTATO FRITTERS, GERMAN FASHION 4 good-sized potatoes 4 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs 1 tablespoonful of butter 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar 1 teaspoonful of salt 8 almonds, blanched, ground or Yolks of four eggs chopped fine 1 tablespoonful of flour Boil and put the potatoes through a vegetable press. Add the 292 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK butter, salt, sugar, almonds, and the yolks of eggs, beaten. Mix thoroughly and form with the hand into small round cakes. Mix the flour and bread crumbs together, roll the cakes into the mixture and sauté in hot oil or suet. Dust with sugar and send to the table. These are used as a sweet entrée, or as a luncheon or supper dish. The German Porato PANCAKE is made precisely in the same way, making the mixture into a pancake instead of fritters. POTATO CROQUETTES, ITALIAN STYLE 2 cupfuls of mashed potatoes 1 teaspoonful of onion juice 1 tablespoonful of chopped pars- 1 saltspoonful of grated nutmeg ley Yolks of three eggs 1 teaspoonful of salt 4 tablespoonfuls of bologna sau- 1 saltspoonful of pepper sage Chop the sausage very, very fine; gradually add the yolks of the eggs, and rub to a smooth paste. Add all the ingredients to the potatoes and beat over the fire until smooth and hot. When cool, form into balls the size of English walnuts; dip in egg, roll in bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat. Serve these with calves’ brains or sweetbreads, or as ordi- nary potato croquettes—Mr. Basso. POTATO CROQUETTES, STUFFED 2 cupfuls of mashed potato 4 saltspoonful of grated nut- 1 level teaspoonful of salt meg 10 drops of onion juice 2 tablespoonfuls of cream 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1 tablespoonful of parsley Yolks of two eggs Add all the ingredients to the potato, beat over the fire until smooth. Have ready cooked one pint of young, green peas; or heat one can of peas. Season the peas with salt and pepper only. Form the potato mixture into a ball the size of a tennis VEGETABLES 293 ball. With your finger scoop out the centre, leaving a space sufficiently large to hold a tablespoonful of peas. Put in the peas, put a little potato in the hole, again form the ball, dip in egg, roll in bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat. Serve with broiled lamb chops at lunch, or as an accompani- ment to roasted lamb for dinner. POTATO BALLS FOR FISH SOUP Make croquette mixture the same as in preceding recipe, using half the rule. Make the balls the size of small marbles, roll them in beaten egg, lift one at a time and drop into hot fat. Shake the pan until they are a golden brown; drain on brown paper, and put them at once in the soup tureen. Add a table- spoonful of Parmesan to the mixture when the balls are to be served with consomme. RICE (Oryza sativa, Linn.) Rice belongs to the great grass order, the group of cereals. It is exceedingly rich in starch, and contains a small amount of proteid, fat, and mineral matter. It is said, however, that varieties of the East Indian rice contain more nitrogenous con- stituents than the rice grown in America. In boiling, rice parts with a goodly quantity of both starch and mineral matter, hence, the necessity of steaming it in small quantities of water, East Indian fashion, or saving the water in which it is boiled for soups. Rice is highly valuable as a starchy food, containing four times as much nourishment as potatoes, and requires only one hour for perfect digestion. It is readily 2bsorbed and leaves little or no waste in the intestines. From both a money and nutritive standpoint it is the most desirable starchy food to serve with nitrogenous materials, as meats, eggs and milk. It forms the staple food for three-fourths of the world’s inhabi- tants. 294 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK COMPOSITION OF DRY RICE (Church), Water ose ey aise, ee Ge eS 14.6 Albuminoids, ete. 2... 6. 1 ee eee ee 75 Slarch etes:'s. os a ee awk SR ee Ea Se Ee 76.0 Pat ua) sl Gs Bold wee LE GO ae ee RP GL ee 0.5 Cellulose. ema ay i Ga set Gna ae ray Sid. wn ed A eee 0.9 Mineral matter 2 6 ek ee 0.5 COMPOSITION OF BOILED RICE (Hutchinson). Water os soe a AG ee he Bice a ee oy 52.7 Proteid! yl an csi, Grae Ge wa ah Se ee ae ee 5.0 Fate aw a eo ee aay ee Re Bee es O.1 Carbo-hydrates 2... 0... ee ee eee eee .. 41.9 Mineral: matter: 40.5. a 4 oe Sie aus 2 a 0.3 Rice is a carbo-hydrate, a fat forming and an energy pro- ducing food, and digested principally in the small intestine. TO BOIL RICE Rice served as a vegetable should be simply and quickly cooked in unsalted water. Wash a half pint of good rice through several cold waters. Have ready a large kettle partly filled with rapidly boiling water. Sprinkle in the rice slowly so as not to stop the boiling. Boil rapidly in an uncovered vessel for thirty minutes. By this time a portion of the water will have been absorbed. Drain the rice in a colander, pour through it quickly a quart of cold water, stand the colander in a plate, and then at the oven door where the heat will pass through the rice; now and then toss it with a four-tined wooden fork from the side of the colander to the middle and back again, being very careful not to break the grains. Turn it at once into a shallow dish and send to the table. Rice is well cooked when each grain has swollen four times its original size, no two are sticking together, and is as white as snow. Serve plain boiled rice with mutton or lamb and poultry of all kinds. In most foreign countries, it is also served with veal. BOILED RICE, EAST INDIA FASHION Wash a half pint of rice through several cold waters; drain, and allow it to stand for two hours. Put over the fire a quart of water in a good-sized kettle. When the water is boiling VEGETABLES 295 rapidly, sprinkle in the rice and continue the rapid cooking, tossing the rice with a wooden fork almost constantly for ten minutes. Then push the kettle to the back of the stove where it will steam without danger of scorching; toss every few min- utes. The water will be absorbed quickly, but the rice will continue to steam until cooked and dry. Do not cover the kettle or the rice will be heavy. The very moment that it is done, turn it in a heated dish and send to the table. This method requires very much more care and knowledge than the preceding one. Under no circumstances can you cook rice to serve as a vegetable in a double boiler; it may, however, be steamed in a “cooker.” Materials cooked in a double boiler are neither steamed nor boiled. Patna rice requires but twenty minutes’ cooking. American or Carolina rice from twenty-five to thirty min- utes. CORN (Zea Mays) HOMINY Of this we have two sorts, one almost the entire grain with the hull taken off, the other the grain ground after the hull has been removed; the latter is known as hominy grits. This is fre- quently served as a breakfast food, but may be served as a vegetable in place of potatoes or rice at dinner or supper. It is more easily digested boiled in water than milk. Both kinds of hominy should be soaked in cold water over night, then cooked slowly for a long while. According to Payne the fol- lowing is the correct analysis of these dried materials: Nitrogenous matter... - 1... eee 22 e « 12.50 Starches. 20 shee ie ee a gh eee: Ss. & el Se eS 67.55 Dextrin 4: 6 ¢ Sai Se 0.5 Cellulose ee Ge ca ha ey Ge ew Bee eS 0.9 Mineralmatter. 2... 1... 1 ee ee te ee 15 WINTER SQUASH (Cucurbita maxima, Duchesne) The recipes given may be used for such varieties as the Hub- bard, Boston Marrow and the Cashaw squash. Like other vegetables in this group, the winter squash is served in place of potatoes or rice; it is not, however, so rich in nourishment, but gives variety to the daily menu. BAKED SQUASH Wash and wipe the squash; saw into halves and then into quarters; remove the seeds. Stand the squash, skin side down, in a baking-pan, bake in a moderately quick oven about one hour or until tender. Dish on a platter, covered with a dainty napkin, and send at once to the table. Serve by scooping out the flesh with a tablespoon. This may be served with beef or chicken and will take the place of sweet potato. PANNED BAKED SQUASH Saw the squash into small strips and remove the rind. Cut the pieces into two-inch lengths; throw them into boiling water, cook slowly for twenty minutes and drain. Arrange them in a baking-pan; dust each layer with a tablespoonful of sugar; cut two tablespoonfuls of butter into bits, put them over the top; add a half cup of water; cover the dish and bake in a slow oven for one hour, or until the squash is soft and trans- parent. Serve, in an uncovered vegetable dish, with broiled steak or roasted poultry. 316 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK SQUASH, MASHED Peel and cut the squash into pieces. Steam or boil until per- fectly tender; drain, and mash through a colander. To each pint allow a level tablespoonful of butter, a half teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of pepper. Mix thoroughly and serve at once. SQUASH CROQUETTES These are usually made from left-over baked squash, or squash may be baked for the purpose. When thoroughly tender, put it through a vegetable press. To each pint allow a half cup of soft, fine bread crumbs, a level teaspoonful of salt, a level table- spoonful of butter, a saltspoonful of pepper. Mix thoroughly over the fire; take from the fire and turn out to cool. When cold form into cylinder-shaped croquettes; dip in beaten egg, roll in bread crumbs and fry in hot fat. COMMON PUMPKIN (Cucurbita Pepo, Linn.) BAKED PUMPKIN Cut a large ripe pumpkin into halves, crosswise; remove the seeds from one-half, put the remaining half away to use another time. After taking out the seeds cut this half into quarters; place skin-side down in a baking-pan, and bake in a mod- erate oven for three-quarters of an hour. Do not have the oven sufficiently hot to color or blacken the skin. Arrange neatly on a platter and send to the table. Serve them by tablespoon- fuls the same as baked squash. Eat with salt, pepper and butter. Serve with boiled salted meat. Baked pumpkins form a very palatable winter vegetable. BOILED PUMPKIN Cut the pumpkin into strips, pare and remove the seeds. Put these strips into a saucepan, cover with boiling water and cook slowly until perfectly tender; drain in a colander. Turn them. into a vegetable dish, and cover with white or cream sauce. Serve with roasted duck or goose. VEGETABLES 317 MASHED PUMPKIN Steam or boil a pumpkin according to the preceding recipe, when done drain and press through a colander. Return it to the saucepan, and to each quart add a tablespoonful of butter, a level teaspoonful of salt, saltspoonful of pepper. Dish and serve the same as sweet potatoes. Serve with panned or roasted rabbit. TO DRY PUMPKIN Pare, cut into thin strips, then into pieces. Spread on boards and dry in the sun or warm oven. Keep in tin boxes or in glass jars in a dry closet. To cook—soak over night in cold water; then proceed the same as for fresh pumpkin. PUMPKIN TIMBALE Add to one pint of mashed pumpkin the yolks of four eggs well beaten, a teaspoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of pepper. Mix well and fill in custard or timbale cups. Stand in a baking- pan of boiling water and bake in a quick oven, twenty minutes. When done turn carefully from the cups, and send to the table. Serve with roasted duck or hot boiled ham. A GROUP OF SUCCULENT VEGETABLES CONTAINING A LITTLE STARCH AND SUGAR In this group will be found succulent vegetables containing about an equal amount of starch and sugar; not enough, how- ever, to take the place of rice or potato, but sufficient to make them objectionable to diabetic persons. They are not valuable nutrients, and are placed among succulent vegetables as con- taining mineral matter and the necessary bulk. SALSIFY Salsify or oyster plant (Tragopogon porrifolius, Linn.) is an edible root resembling a small parsnip, and may be cooked and 318 MRS, RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK served according to the same rules. Owing to a peculiar fishy flavor it is frequently called vegetable oyster, and is used by vegetarians in imitation of the real oyster. It makes a delicious mock oyster soup; a recipe for which will be found under soups. MOCK OYSTERS 1 dozen oyster plants 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1 terspoonful of salt 3 eggs Scrape the salsify and throw it into cold water to prevent dis- coloration. Cover with boiling water, cook slowly for three- quarters of an hour until tender; drain, and press through a colander. Add the salt, pepper and the eggs well beaten. Cover the bottom of a baking or sauté pan with suet or oil, or lard if you use it. When hot drop in the mixture by spoon- fuls, making each the shape of an oyster. Brown carefully on one side, turn and brown the other. Serve at once with tomato catsup, as a supper or luncheon dish. SCALLOPED SALSIFY Scrape and boil the salsify until tender, cut it into thin slices. To each dozen roots allow a half pint of white sauce. Put a layer of the sauce in the bottom of a baking-dish, then a layer of salsify, just a suspicion of celery seed, not more than a salt- spoonful to the whole dish; then another layer of sauce, and so continue until the dish is full. Cover the top with bread crumbs and bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. BROWNED SALSIFY Scrape and boil the salsify until tender; drain and put them into a baking dish. Dissolve four tablespoonfuls of sugar in a half cup of water, pour this over the salsify, and bake in a quick oven until a golden brown, basting once or twice. SALSIFY WITH BROWN SAUCE Scrape and boil the salsify, cut it into thin slices. Rub together two tablespoonfuls of butter and two of flour, adding a pint of the water in which the salsify was boiled; stir until boiling, VEGETABLES 819 add a tablespoonful of chopped onion, a bay leaf, a teaspoon- ful of kitchen bouquet and the salsify. Cook slowly for fifteen minutes and serve. SALSIFY WITH CREAM SAUCE Scrape one dozen salsify roots and throw them in cold water. Cut them in thin slices; cover with boiling water, cook until tender, about a half hour. Drain, dish and cover with a pint of cream sauce. Serve with boiled salt fish or baked salt mackerel. PARSNIPS Parsnip is the root of the Pastinaca sativa, Linn. It resem- bles the carrot in general appearance, except that it is white, and contains both sugar and starch. Being rich in woody fibre, the parsnip must be carefully cooked to be palatable and wholesome; they are usually served as an accompaniment to salt fish, COMPOSITION OF THE PARSNIP (Church) Water < ie sae Se pa Ey ee oa Re Ge Gp ea 82.0 Albuminoids, etc. 2. 6. ee ee ee 1.2 SUGAR ge eo gles ah Ge er a ents. ed egos Geel 5.0 Starch: sek a ww ew ae ee ie eee we 3.5 Pectose; dextrin, ete: « 6 ss 6 2 eee RR 3.7 Hat, 5. tats ating a) ae cés Vee Goch SS oc anes WE SS es te 1.5 Cellilose: ssa. ody a2 al os eae Sa OY, a al eS 21 Mineral matter’y. ¢ gus wisn Ge Gi ek oe a we 1.0 Parsnips are digested principally in the intestines. ' PARSNIP TIMBALE 4 good-sized parsnips 1 level teaspoonful of salt yY% cup of milk 1 saltspoonful of pepper 2 eggs 1 teaspoonful of onion juice Scrape the parsnips and throw them at once into cold water. When all ate scraped cut into halves, throw them into boiling water and cook slowly until tender. Drain and mash them 320 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK through a colander. Beat the eggs without separating until light; add the milk; stir this into the parsnips; add the salt, pepper and onion juice. Line the bottoms of small timbale molds with a piece of greased paper, fill in the mixture, stand them in a baking-pan of boiling water and bake twenty min- utes. When done loosen the sides with a thin knife, and turn the timbales out on a heated platter; pour around cream sauce. Serve at dinner with corned beef or boiled salt fish. PARSNIPS ON TOAST 6 parsnips ¥Y pint of water 1 tablespoonful of butter Slice of onion 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoontful of pepper Select young parsnips; scrape and throw them at once into cold water to prevent discoloration. Cut them into halves and then into quarters lengthwise ; throw at once into a saucepan of boil- ing water, bring to boiling point, and cook just at the boiling point until perfectly tender, about three-quarters of an hour. When done have ready a plate covered with squares of neatly toasted bread. Lift the parsnips; drain and place them on the toast, heads all one way. Rub the butter and flour together, add the water, stir until boiling; add the salt and pepper, and the juice of half a lemon. Strain this over the parsnips and send at once to the table. Serve with corned beef or boiled salt fish. SCALLOPED PARSNIPS 4 good-sized parsnips ¥Y% teaspoonful of salt % cup of bread crumbs 1 saltspoonful of pepper 1 tablespoonful of flour 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped ¥Y pint of milk onions 1 tablespoonful of butter Scrape and boil the parsnips ; when tender cut them into blocks. Make a cream sauce from the butter, flour and milk; add the salt and pepper. Put a layer of the cream sauce in the bottom VEGETABLES 321 of a baking dish, then a layer of parsnips, a sprinkling of onions, and so continue until the dish is full, having the last layer sauce. Dust with fine bread crumbs and bake a half hour. Serve with salted boiled beef. BOILED AND BROWNED PARSNIPS Scrape the parsnips and cut them into halves, throw them into cold water. Cover with boiling water and cook slowly until tender, about three-quarters of an hour. Drain; arrange the parsnips in a baking pan flat side down. Dissolve two table- spoonfuls of sugar in two of water. Baste this carefully over the parsnips; then dust them with two tablespoonfuls of dry sugar. Put them into a quick oven and cook until a dark brown, basting once or twice. Serve as an accompaniment to roasted duck or fricassee of guinea. STRING BEANS (Haricots Verts) COMPOSITION (Hutchinson) ‘Water... SO ep eR ae ee oe ca Be 89.5 Proteids See ade ee, Hath aea Gee es Aes ga ke be 1.5 Carbo-hydrates . 2... 2... 2 eee eee xe a PKS ate 2. fo ck telde, 9” lap deci, “che ofan en che Ae ee a 0.4 Cellulosé: sas ee ee ee RS: aE IG 2 Sy ae 0.6 Mineralmatter: ¢ 6 6-3) 4 ss 2 eee we eee ww 0.7 It will be seen that string beans are not rich in nourishment and may well be placed with the green or succulent vegetables. They contain sufficient starch and sugar, however, to be detri- mental to diabetic persons. To be easily digested and palatable they must be used fresh and while the pod is young and tender. String beans are waste or bulk food and are principally digested in the intestines. STRING BEANS, STEWED 2 quarts of beans 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 level teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Cut the blossom end from the pod and pull it back, removing 21 322 MRS. RORER'S NEW COOK BOOK the string without tearing, then cut a strip from the outside of the pod. In this way one is quite sure that the string por- tion is removed. Cut the pods crosswise into pieces of a half inch, throw them into boiling water to which you have added a teaspoonful of salt; boil rapidly for about five minutes, then simmer gently for three-quarters of an hour. Drain; return them to the saucepan; add the butter, salt and pepper. Stir carefully for a few minutes; cover and stand over hot water for ten minutes, and they are ready to serve. STRING BEANS WITH CREAM SAUCE String beans as directed in preceding recipe; cut them cross- wise into pieces not over quarter of an inch; throw them into cold water for thirty minutes; put them into a kettle of boiling water to which you have added a teaspoonful of salt; bring to boiling point, and simmer gently three-quarters of an hour. Drain in a colander. In the pot in which they were cooked make a half pint of cream sauce, using a rounding tablespoon- ful of butter rubbed with a tablespoonful of flour; add a half pint of milk, a half teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pep- per; when boiling add the beans. Cover the kettle and stand it on the back part of the stove for ten minutes, tossing lightly once or twice. Serve in a heated dish, with beef or veal. BUTTER BEANS Remove the strings as directed in the first recipe; cut the pods in three or four strips lengthwise. Throw them into cold water for a half hour. Drain, put them into a saucepan, and cover with boiling water, adding a level teaspoonful of salt and a rounding tablespoonful of suet or butter. Cover the saucepan, and simmer gently for twenty minutes. Drain, cover again with boiling water, boil twenty minutes longer. Drain, add a saltspoonful of pepper and a tablespoonful of butter, and send at once to the table. VEGETABLES 323 STRING BEANS, GERMAN FASHION 2 quarts of beans 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 2 stalks of mint 1 tablespoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper String and cut the beans into strips lengthwise; cover them with boiling water, boil rapidly twenty minutes; drain, throw the water away. Re-cover with boiling water, add a teaspoon- ful of salt and the mint; cook slowly for a half hour. Drain, return them to the saucepan, add the butter, pepper and a half teaspoonful of extra salt. Shake over the fire until per- fectly hot, and send at once to the table. A GROUP OF VEGETABLES CONTAINING NITROGEN AND STARCH Old dried peas Lentils Old dried beans of all varieties Chick peas Ground or peanuts To this same family belong clover, alfalfa, cow pea, and many other plants of economic importance. This group contains edible leguminous seeds, characterized by the large amount of nitrogenous matter they contain. Gat Alsip tar-2ey (on car eae . . 14.0 Albuminoids, etc, © 0. 2. ee eee ee 23.0 Starch, -etCs-3) is sg. See SS ws Ge eel ew eee 52.3 Fat ig a 4 @ ee ee oe ee SE ee 2.3 Cellulose. . . Ga a ee A a Se 5.5 Mineral matter Apa! ihe ae Bao RB Ses ae see 29 All beans as butter, kidney, caseknife and flageolets may be cooked in precisely the same manner. The main points to be remembered are that all dried beans must be soaked over night in cold water, and cooked in soft, unsalted water just at or below the boiling point, not boiled rapidly. Water rapidly boiled is precisely the same in temperature as that boiled slowly, but the motion of the water washes off the outside of the beans and destroys their texture. KIDNEY BEANS These are a fresh shell bean, sold in pods like lima beans. The bean is small and shaped like a kidney. Shell and wash them in cold water; throw them into a kettle of boiling, unsalted water; cook slowly for forty-five minutes. Drain and season with a half teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper and a tablespoonful of butter to each pint; or use cream and omit the butter, or they may be simply served plain with tomato sauce, 328 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK KIDNEY BEANS WITH BROWN SAUCE I quart of kidney beans 2 tablespoonfuls of butter I teaspoonful of salt 2 tablespoonfuls of flour I slice of onion 1 sweet chilli I pound of soup meat 2 tablespoontuls of thick tomato Put the beans into a saucepan ; add the meat chopped fine, cover with boiling water and cook gently thirty minutes; then add a teaspoonful of salt and cook thirty minutes longer. Put the butter in a saucepan, add the flour, mix and add the tomato, the chilli mashed or chopped very fine, a half teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet, and a pint of the water in which the beans were boiled; stir until boiling; add a teaspoonful of grated onion juice or just a suspicion of garlic, a half teaspoonful of salt, and a dash of white pepper. Strain this sauce into the beans that have been carefully drained; re-heat over hot water and use in the place of meat. Serve with plain boiled rice. DRIED BEANS These may be of almost any kind or color. Black beans, how- ever, are as a rule used for soup making; the white and red beans are served in the place of meat. Every variety must be washed well, soaked over night and the next morning put into a kettle of boiling water and boiled until tender. Drain, cover with fresh cold water, and cook slowly about two hours. If boiled rapidly the skin will break and spoil the shape of the bean. When tender, drain and add salt, pepper and butter. The water in which dried beans are boiled may be saved for bean broth and soups; or with left-over beans for purée. RED BEANS, SPANISH FASHION 4 pint of dried red beans 2 tablespoonfuls of butter 1 small carrot I onion ¥Y pound of lean beef I teaspoonful of sugar 1 chilli ¥Y% teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Wash the beans and soak them over night in cold water; in the morning drain, Chop the beef, put it into a very hot kettle, VEGETABLES 329 stir a moment until the beef is browned; cover the kettle and push to the back part of the stove for twenty minutes. Then add one quart of cold water; bring to boiling point and add the beans, tied loosely in a piece of cheesecloth, sugar and pepper. Scald and peel one sweet chilli, chop fine and add it to the mixture. Cover and cook slowly until the beans are tender, about an hour and a half; then add the salt. Remove the beans, strain the sauce, add to it the beans and add the butter. The mixture should have boiled down just sufficient to cover the beans. Serve with rice or boiled chestnuts. POLENTA I pint of small white soup 1 tablespoonful of butter beans 1 tablespoonful of vinegar 114 tablespoonfuls of molasses % teaspoonful of salt 4 teaspoonful of eicend mus- 1 saltspoonful of pepper tard Wash the beans and soak them over night; the next morning cover with fresh cold water, bring slowly to boiling point and simmer one hour. When done, press through a fine colander ; add the other ingredients and stir over the fire for ten minutes. Serve in a vegetable dish; or turn into a square mold and stand to cool. When cold, cut into blocks, dip in egg and roll in bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat. Serve with tomato or cream sauce. BEAN BALLS These are made precisely the same as Polenta, omitting the mustard. When cold, form into cylinders, or small balls, dip in beaten egg, roll in bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat. Serve on a bed of nicely boiled rice. Pour around cream sauce, dust with finely chopped parsley, and send to the table. PORK AND BEANS, OR BAKED BEANS I quart of small white soup 1 pound of salt or pickled pork beans 2 tablespoonfuls of molasses Soak the beans over night, The next morning, wash them and 330 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK _put them into a kettle of boiling water and boil until the skins “will crack when you blow on them, They must not be soft. Score the rind of the pork and boil it with the beans. When the skin of the beans cracks, take them from the fire; drain and turn them at once into the bean pot; bury the pork in the centre until only the scored skin remains above the beans. Put a tea- spoonful of salt and the molasses into one pint of the water in which the beans were boiled; mix and pour over the beans in the pot. This should just come to the surface. Put on the lid and bake in a moderate oven from six to eight hours. Add more of the bean water as that in the pot evaporates. If prop- erly done each bean will be soft; no two beans should stick together. The water will have entirely evaporated and the beans be a dark, rich brown in color. If the beans have been boiled too long they will not keep shape in baking. BAKED BEANS WITH TOMATO SAUCE Boil the beans as directed in preceding recipe. Spread them out and when cold carefully “pulp” each one. This renders them much more digestible and wholesome. Put the beans in a bean pot. Add a teaspoonful of salt, two teaspoonfuls of sugar to one quart of strained tomato. Pour this over the beans, cover the pot and bake slowly from four to six hours. Pork may be added the same as in preceding recipe; or better, chopped nuts or suet in layers with beans. Use a mixture of Brazilian and pine-nuts. STEWED WHITE BEANS Y pint of beans 1 tablespoonful of chopped onion 1 tablespoonful of butter 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 saltspoonful of p2pper Wash the beans and soak them in cold water over night; next morning put them into a saucepan with one quart of boiling water and a half saltspoonful of bi-carbonate of soda. Cook slowly for one hour or until the beans are perfectly tender; VEGETABLES 331 drain, saving the water. When slightly cold, “pulp” each bean, throwing away the skins. Rub together the butter and flour; add them to the water in which the beans were cooked, add the salt, pepper and chopped onion; bring to boiling point; add the beans and cook slowly fifteen minutes and serve. BEANS WITH TOMATO SAUCE Cook the beans according to the preceding recipe, saving the water for soups. When the beans are “pulped” re-heat them in a pint of tomato sauce. RED BEANS WITH BROWN SAUCE V5 pint of red beans tablespoonfuls of butter 1 level teaspoonfu: of salt 2 tablespoonfuls of flour 1 slice of onion % pint of stock Y4 pint of strained tomatoes vob Wash the beans and soak them over night in cold water; next morning cover with boiling water and cook slowly until the beans are tender, about one hour. Drain, and pulp or skin the beans. Rub the butter and flour together, add the stock and tomato and all the seasonings; bring to boiling point, add the beans, cook slowly fifteen minutes and serve. These are among the nicest of winter vegetables and have meat value. STEWED RED BEANS ¥Y% pint of beans 4 pound of bacon or two table- I small onion spoonfuls of butter I carrot 1 teaspoonful of sugar 1 teaspoonful of salt 1 saltspoonful of pepper Wash the beans and soak them over night in cold water; in the morning drain. Put the bacon, sliced, into a saucepan, add the onion and carrot chopped fine. Add the beans and cover the whole with cold water; bring to boiling point, add a half saltspoonful of bi-carbonate of soda; simmer gently one hour 332 -MRS. RORER'S NEW COOK BOOK or until the beans are tender. When done, drain and “pulp.” Return them to the saucepan, stand the saucepan over a kettle of hot water, add an extra tablespoonful of butter, the salt and pepper and serve when hot. Cut the bacon into neat pieces and use as a garnish to the dish. BEAN SOUFFLE Cover one pint of beans with cold water and soak over night ; next morning wash and drain and cover with boiling water; boil one hour; drain and cover again with fresh boiling water ; cook slowly one hour; drain and press through a colander; add a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, a table- spoonful of butter, and four tablespoonfuls of hot milk; beat until light; then fold in the well beaten whites of two eggs; turn this into a baking dish and bake in a moderate oven twenty minutes. This dish has meat value. LIMA BEANS (Phaseolus lunatus, Linn.) These beans are both “climbers” and “bush.” They are char- acterized by being flat and larger than the ordinary kidney bean, and contain a trifle more starch and less nitrogen. As the hull of beans is indigestible, it is always wise to blanch and remove, or “pulp” them. Cook carefully that they may become soft without falling apart. TO COOK LIMA BEANS I quart of young lima beans I saltspoonful of pepper 1 teaspoonful of salt Y% cup of cream Wash the beans in cold water, put them into a saucepan, cover with boiling water and add half the salt. Boil gently for twenty minutes or until they are perfectly tender. Drain the beans in a colander and “pulp” them gently as you would slip almonds from the skins. Return them to the saucepan, -dd the cream and the remaining salt and pepper. Stand the saucepan over a moderate fire until the beans and cream are thoroughly heated. Serve in a hot dish. VEGETABLES 333 The outside skin or covering of beans is exceedingly indi- gestible and should always be removed before serving. They may be served with simply a seasoning of salt, pepper and butter. a Cold lima beans may be mixed with other vegetables and used in salads. LIMA BEAN CAKES Press cold left-over lima beans through a fine sieve. To each half pint add the yolk of one egg, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a half teaspoonful of onion juice. Form into little cakes or balls, dip into the white of the egg that has been slightly beaten with a tablespoonful of water; roll in bread crumbs and fry in deep, hot fat. LIMA BEANS 4a la POULETTE I pint of young beans Yolks of two eggs 1 tablespoonful of butter Y% pint of milk 1 tablespoonful of flour 1 teaspoonful of salt ¥Y teaspoonful of onion juice 1 saltspoonful of pepper Cover the beans with boiling water, add half the salt and boil gently thirty minutes. Drain and “pulp.” Put the butter and flour into a saucepan; when melted add the milk, stir until boiling, add the remaining quantity of salt, pepper and onion juice. Add the beans and when the mixture is smoking hot take from the fire and add the volks of the eggs beaten with the cream. Dish the beans in a round vegetable dish, garnish the edge with triangular pieces of toasted bread and send at once to the table. A very nice luncheon dish. DRIED LIMA BEANS Soak one pint of beans in cold water over night; next morning drain off the water, and cover with fresh boiling water; cook slowly one hour. Drain off this water and “pulp” the beans. Cover again with boiling water; add a sprig of dried mint, if 334 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK you have it, and a half saltspoonful of bi-carbonate of soda. Cook until tender, about one hour. Drain and add a level tea- spoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper; sprinkle over one tablespoonful of flour; mix, and add one tablespoonful of butter and a half pint of milk. Shake carefully until the sauce reaches the boiling point, and serve. LIMA BEAN SOUFFLE Press left-over boiled lima beans through a sieve, and to each half pint add the yolks of two eggs, beat, and fold in the well beaten whites. Turn in a baking pan, and bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. BLACK OR TURTLE BEANS (Dolichos Lablab, Linn.) On account of the black coloring matter contained in these seeds, they are used principally for mock turtle soup, or what is commonly known as black bean soup. They are, however, excellent when well cooked, pressed through a colander, and served in purée. RED BEANS The red Mexican beans are simply a variety of kidney bean. The flesh of the bean is perfectly white; the outside skin is red, and during the cooking colors the centre of the bean. With tomato and chilli sauce these make an admirable dinner dish and take the place of meat. Macaroni or spaghetti are usually served with them. SOY BEAN (Glycine hispida, Maxim.) Soy beans are grown principally in China where they form an important article of food; in fact, they are the richest of all in food constituents. It is also grown to a considerable extent in India, where it is mixed with rice. This bean ranks high in fat and albuminoids and is their only muscle-making food. It has more than meat value. By the Chinese it is made into cheese, pastes and sauces. Soy sauce is used by them on all meat and fish dishes. For the English and Americans it forms the foun- VEGETABLES 335 dation for such sauces as club-house and Worcestershire. Soy is an agreeable seasoning to creamed meat dishes and a very pleasant addition to French salad dressing. It can be pur- chased in jugs at any Chinese shop, or at the American whole- sale druggists by measure. COMPOSITION (Church) Albuminoids, ete. . ear. “ah @ Ge ele Ae a ee oe 35-3 Fat ish je we Bo RR oe aa Se ea ee 18.9 Starch and Dextrin. . 2... 2. 1 eet we te ee 12.5 UPAR oo seri Hoe Ge. SN We Baha ee ee 12.0 CSN MI GSE: icles, eae ae, ge 8 ae cle se a a wh ae Be? Ge 4.2 Waterss. 6.— Ug ve ete eh eh a Ow eS Sl ig ee 12.5 Mineral Matter .......... Se ae a oe ee 4.6 LENTILS (Leus esculenta, Moench) While the nitrogenous matter in lentils is greater than that in peas and beans, it is presented in a more digestible form. There is no doubt that lentils are the best and most easily digested of nitrogenous vegetables; they take the place of lean meats and should be served with rice, potatoes or other starchy foods. COMPOSITION OF HUSKED LENTILS (Church) Water? «2: So sei te an & Gh cp SG Sac Bae lee le a a es 12.5 Albuminoids s 6% sy) @ oe Ba eR ee ee we 25.0 Starch ~ 3,2 ww a a eR eS RB @ OH SL el 56.1 ats es wey Gee men ai cies Gh ie aer See We a bs Be Pe Hee ew aes 2.0 Cellalose: oe da Ck id a a er a at Be 1.9 Mineral. ‘Matter’... 40.6 6 3 6g Ge we 2.5 The red, or Arabian lentils, are rich in iron, rarely ever come to this country, and when they do, only in small quanti- ties, and sell at a high price. The Revelenta arabica, sold at a dollar a pound, is red lentil flour, used principally with milk for making soup or gruel for nursing mothers; it is said to produce milk of excellent quality. It is also used in purées or soufflés in cases of neurasthenia. Lentils should be served in every household at least once a week. They form an excellent substitute for flesh. In appear- ance they resemble a dark, tiny split pea; they are round but flat, not globular, like peas. While extensively grown in the United States they are principally used by the Germans. 336 MRS. RORER'S NEW COOK BOOK STEWED LENTILS Wash a half pint of lentils, cover with cold water and soak over night. Next morning drain, cover with fresh boiling water and cook slowly one hour. Drain; return them to the kettle; add a tablespoonful of butter, a teaspoonful of salt and a salt- spoonful of pepper; shake for a moment until thoroughly hot and serve. STEWED LENTILS WITH RICE Cook the lentils according to the preceding recipe. While they are cooking, boil, drain and dry a half pint of rice; put a table- spoonful of butter in a saucepan, add four tablespoonfuls of chopped onion; cook carefully without browning the butter until the onion is soft. Add the lentils, drained, shake the saucepan over the fire until they are thoroughly hot; add the rice; toss the whole well together, and add a level teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper and serve at once. With a carefully cooked green vegetable, these will form the “meat” course at dinner. THICK LENTIL PUREE Wash and boil the lentils as directed in the first recipe. Drain, and press them through a colander; return them to the sauce- pan and add a quarter cup of hot milk, a level teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper and a tablespoonful of butter. Beat over the fire until thoroughly hot and serve in an uncov- ered vegetable dish. LENTIL PUREE, BAKED Turn the preceding mixture into a baking dish and bake in a moderately quick oven until a golden brown. This second cooking aids in the digestion of the lentils. This, with brown bread and butter, makes an excellent supper dish. VEGETABLES 337 LENTIL SOUFFLE Add the well beaten whites of four eggs to the thick purée. Turn into a baking dish and bake in a moderately quick oven thirty minutes. Serve at once. As this is highly nitrogenous, serve with either rice or white bread. LENTIL CROQUETTES Wash a pint of lentils and soak them over night; next morning drain, cover with fresh boiling water and cook slowly for one hour; drain again. Press the lentils through a colander, add a level teaspoonful of salt, saltspoonful of pepper, two table- spoonfuls of cream, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a tea- spoonful of onion juice, and just a grating of nutmeg. Mix thoroughly; form into cylinder shaped croquettes; dip in egg, roll in bread crumbs and fry in hot fat. Serve plain or with tomato sauce. LENTILS, EGYPTIAN STYLE Boil the lentils as directed in preceding recipe. Boil an equal quantity of rice. While they are boiling strain one pint of stewed tomatoes; add a bay leaf, a good-sized onion, chopped fine, and a blade of mace. Cook until reduced one-half; strain. When the lentils are done, drain, mix them with the rice, turn into a heated dish and press a few cardamom seeds here and there into the mass. Season the tomato with a level teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper; stir in quickly a rounding tablespoonful of butter, and strain it over the lentils and rice. This is a sightly and attractive dinner dish, and has meat value. Cocoanut fat, or olive oil, may be used in the place of butter. LENTILS WITH CREAM SAUCE Boil the lentils; when done drain and dish; pour over a half pint of white or cream sauce and send at once to the table. LENTIL PIE Soak and boil a half pint of lentils. Chop fine a quarter of a pound of Brazilian nuts. Drain the lentils, add the nuts, a 2 338 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK level teaspoonful of salt and one grated onion. Rub two table- spoonfuls of peanut butter into a pint of white flour; add cold water to moisten. Knead; roll out in a thin sheet. Put the lentil mixture in a deep pie dish and add a half cup of water. Cover with the crust and bake one hour. Serve hot with English drawn butter. PEANUTS (Arachis hypogaea, Linn.) Botanically these belong to the pulse tribe; leguminous seeds rich in nitrogenous matter, but for convenience, recipes for their use and cookery have been placed with nuts. A GROUP OF VEGETABLES CONTAINING NITROGENOUS MATTER WITHOUT STARCH OR SUGAR MUSHROOMS All the mushrooms and truffles belong to a large group of fungi, plants void of chlorophyll. They are placed among the nitrogenous foods, that is they do not contain starch or sugar. They consist, however, of 90% water. Of the remain- ing 10% a portion is vegetable fibre. They are food adjuncts, or flavoring, rather than true foods. They do not contain sufficient nitrogenous matter to take the place of meat. To obtain from them the proper amount of nourishment one would be obliged to eat them in large quan- tities; as they are dense and difficult of digestion, this would be impracticable and dangerous. A cook-book is scarcely the proper place to discuss mush- rooms; the subject is too large for the available space. A few recipes for the cooking and preserving of the more common varieties will, I am sure, be of great service. The question, how can one be sure of “mushrooms” or “toadstools,” is an important one. The average person calls the edible varieties mushrooms, the poisonous ones toadstools. VEGETABLES 339 The fact is, however, that they are all toadstools or all mush- rooms. Some are poisonous, others edible. The question reverts then, to how can one be sure of knowing the poisonous from the edible varieties. Let me emphatically state that there is no royal road to distinguishing the poisonous from the edible mushrooms; one must know all their characteristics, habitat and general appear- ance. All of the common tests, as the gold ring or silver spoon, are fallacies. In certain parts of the country the common people use the Morel, calling it a mushroom and every other variety a toad- stool. In many States the Agaricus campestris is known as the mushroom, and all others are toadstools. In Maine, espe- cially on some of the coast islands, the Cantharcllus is the mushroom. So that the term mushroom or toadstool is not applied to the same fungus in different places. Avoid all mushrooms that have a veil hanging in a form of skirt from the stem and those having a cup or volva in the ground out of which the stem seems to be growing. While “veils” may be found on other mushrooms, they are sure to be found on the poisonous ones. Avoid such mushrooms; do not even taste them, for the poisonous ones are very deadly. Mushrooms differ in analysis and density of flesh as well as in flavor, hence, different methods of cooking are desirable. The Coprinus micaceus and Lepiota procera are easily de- stroyed by long and severe cooking. The more dense and common Agaricus campestris, and some varieties of the Boleti, require long slow cooking to make them tender, digestible, and bring out the flavor. Simplicity in seasoning is desirable ; wine, mustard, onion or any other decided flavors will entirely overpower the delicate mushroom flavor. All mushrooms are best cooked without peeling, with the exception of the puff ball, which should always be pared. In washing take one mushroom in each hand, gill sides down; wash them quickly by plunging them in and out of the water while rubbing the caps with the thumbs; shake and throw them into a colander. Recipes for Agaricus campestris will answer for all other 340 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK mushrooms which have firm, solid flesh, as the Cantharellus, Agaricus Arvensis, Armillaria mellea, Paxillus rhodoxanthus, Hypholoma perplexum, Lactarius deliciosus, Lactarius volemus, Marasmius oreades, and the Russule. Russula virescens is excellent raw, in salads. The Coprini are best baked or panned, the Lepiota broiled or panned, the Morchella (smorel) stuffed and baked, the puff ball sliced and sautéd. The Agaricus campestris grows in old pasture fields and along the roadside and often in gardens. It is usually found in the sod.. The cap is first rounded, as it grows, expands and shows the gills, which are at first pink, growing a dark brown as the mushroom ages. The flesh is white, the gills are free from the stem, the flesh of both the cap and stem solid. It is the common pasture or meadow mushroom, and is, perhaps, the most widely known and collected of all mushrooms. It is this variety that is cultivated in cellars and caves. AGARICUS CAMPESTRIS Cut the stems close to the gills. These may be put aside to use for flavoring sauce or soup. Wash carefully, gill sides down. Throw them into a colander to drain. To each pound allow two ounces of butter. Put the butter in a saucepan; when melted, not browned, throw in the mushrooms, either whole or cut into slices. Sprinkle over a teaspoonful of salt, a half saltspoonful of pepper; cover the saucepan closely and cook over a very slow fire for twenty minutes. Moisten a rounding tablespoonful of flour in a little cold milk. When perfectly smooth, add a half cup of milk. Strain this into the mush- rooms; stir carefully until boiling. Serve at once, either plain or on toast. This also makes a good sauce to serve with broiled or panned chicken. To serve with steak, cook the mushrooms until tender, in butter, season with salt and pepper only. Do not add either flour or milk. BROILED MUSHROOMS Cut the stems close to the gills; wash as directed and put them in a wire broiler and broil, gill side down, for five minutes; turn, put in the centre of each a piece of butter the size of a pea. VEGETABLES 341 Dust lightly with salt and pepper, and broil over a mild fire, skin side down, for five minutes. Have ready squares of neatly toasted buttered bread. Place on top the mushrooms, skin side down, and send at once to the table. PANNED MUSHROOMS Wash one pound of mushrooms and cut the stems as in pre- ceding recipes: Crowd them, skin side down, in a baking pan. Dust lightly with salt and pepper and pour over a tablespoonful of melted butter. Bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. While these are cooking, toast squares of bread, and put them on a hot platter. Heap on top the mushrooms and baste with the sauce in the bottom of the pan. If the pan is dry add a half cup of milk. MUSHROOMS IN A CHAFING DISH Wash, stem and cut the mushrooms into thin slices. To each pound allow two ounces of butter. Put the butter in the chafing dish; when melted put in the mushrooms, sprinkle with a level teaspoonful of salt and a half teaspoonful of pepper. Cover the dish; cook slowly five minutes, stirring once or twice. Moisten a level tablespoonful of flour in a little cold milk; add one gill of milk. Add this to the mushrooms, cover the dish and cook three minutes longer. Serve at once from the dish. The well beaten yolks of two eggs and a half cup of cream may be substituted for flour and milk. Stir and serve the moment the eggs are added or the mixture will curdle. UNDER A MUSHROOM BELL Cut rounds from slices of bread, with an ordinary biscuit cutter. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter in a saucepan to melt. Toast the bread ; arrange the slices in the bottom of a mushroom dish. Wash, stem and drain the mushrooms. Put three or four on each slice of bread, heaping them in the centre. Baste with melted butter; dust them with salt and pepper, and pour into the dish six tablespoonfuls of good cream. Cover with the 342 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK “bells,” stand them in a baking pan and then in a hot oven for twenty minutes. Send to the table without lifting the “bells.” In this way one gets the full aroma of the mushrooms. This recipe is arranged for individual “bells.” The portion will be the same where one large “bell” is used for the entire pound. COPRINUS, THE INKY MUSHROOM Coprinus comatus is another well known variety of the more common mushrooms. These are found growing along rail- roads, especially where soft and hard coal are transported. Also in mining localities and on ash “dumps.” In the soft coal districts of Illinois this mushroom grows most plentifully. It is readily recognized by its black spores. As it grows to matur- ity the gills seem to dissolve into a sort of inky fluid. The young plants or buttons have white gills which turn black as the spores mature. The cap has a rough shaggy appearance, hence, the common name, “shaggy mane.” In appearance it is like a tiny umbrella closed down to the stem. The stem is hollow, loose from the cap and is easily taken out. Coprinus atramentarius, the companion of the comatits, is also edible. The cap of this variety is smooth and does not so closely hug the stem. It also has white gills in a very young stage. The skin of the cap is smooth and of a grayish color, but in a short time it begins to spread and the gills turn very black from discoloration of the spores, and the edges begin to melt away. Both these varieties are not only edible, but exceed- ingly delicate and palatable. In the Eastern part of the United States they appear in the early summer, and continue until November. In Illinois they are most plentiful in September and October. Coprinus mucaceus, a tiny little mushroom, soft and easily digested, is another variety of this “inky” group. The caps of these are tan color, and the size of a large thimble. They grow in huge groups around trees, especially elms. I have seen as many as two hundred in a single bunch. These are said to be the most easily digested of all mushrooms. They have black spores, as black as ink, after cooking. VEGETABLES 343 The following recipe will answer for all soft and juicy mush- rooms as the comatus and atramentarius or nticaceus. Remove the stems, wash carefully, throw them into a colander to drain. Melt a tablespoonful of butter in a shallow baking pan, put in the mushrooms, crowding them together in two layers. Dust with a half teaspoonful of salt and a half saltspoonful of pepper. Cook slowly in a moderate oven a half hour. Serve at once on a hot dish, garnished with triangular bits of toast. Add a cup of cream to the pan, heat quickly and pour it over the mushrooms. COPRINUS MICACEUS, STEAMED Remove the stems, wash the mushrooms and throw them into a colander. To each quart allow a tablespoonful of butter. ' Put the butter in a saucepan, add the mushrooms, cover closely. Place them over a slow fire for five minutes. Lift the mush- rooms with a skimmer and put them into another saucepan. Add a half teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, and four tablespoonfuls of milk to the liquor; boil rapidly for five minutes. Dish the mushrooms on toast, pour over the sauce and serve at once. LEPIOTA PROCERA This is the “parasol” mushroom, or “Scotch bonnet.” It grows in pastures, along the edges of woods, along roadsides at the edge of woods, and sometimes in the shady spots in gardens. The cap is oval at first, umbonate at the centre when expanded. When fully grown frequently measures from six to seven inches in diameter. The surface of the cap is reddish brown, in wet weather ofttimes quite pale. As the cap expands, the darker brown surface is torn and remains in scales all over the surface of the cap. The stem is round, “stuffed,” and has a prominent ring just below the gills. This ring differs from a “veil” in that it is free from the stem and can be moved up and down. This variety is, of all mushrooms, the richest in flavor. They may be easily dried and are the best variety for catsup. 344 MRS. RORER'S NEW COOK BOOK BAKED LEPIOTA PROCERA The flesh of the cap being thin the gills dry easily. To be good they must be cooked quickly. Remove the stems; take the mushroom in your hand, cap side up, and wash each separately with a soft piece of cheese cloth; dip it into water and rub lightly the cap. This will remove the brown scales and leave the gills dry. Grease a baking pan with butter; put in the mushrooms, skin side down. Bake in a quick oven ten min- utes; baste the gills lightly with melted butter, dust with salt and pepper, and serve quickly. Or put them in a broiler, broil five minutes, turning once; baste with a little butter, dust with salt and pepper, and serve at once on heated platter. These, if overcooked, become leathery, tasteless and dry. Cook quickly and eat at once. PLEUROTUS OSTREATUS These are commonly called the “oyster” mushroom, on account of their odor. They grow in groups or clusters on trunks and branches of trees, either with a short side stem or directly out from the wood, without stem. The spores are white. For the best results select young plants, as they grow woody with age. “OYSTER” MUSHROOM SOUP Wash and shake the mushrooms ; cut them into strips crosswise of the gills, rejecting the woody portion on the stem side. To each pound of these strips allow a tablespoonful of butter, a half teaspoonful of salt, a half saltspoonful of pepper. Put the butter into the saucepan, add the mushrooms, sprinkle over the salt and pepper. Cover and stew slowly for twenty minutes. Moisten a tablespoonful of flour in a little cold milk, then add a half pint of milk. Strain into the mushrooms. Stew gently for five minutes and add another half pint of milk with a grating of nutmeg. Serve with oyster crackers the same as oyster soup. To serve as a STEw omit the last milk and nutmeg; add the beaten yolk of one egg and pour the mixture over nicely toasted bread, VEGETABLES 345 MOCK OYSTERS Trim the oyster mushrooms into the shape of oysters. Dust with salt and pepper. Beat an egg without separating and add a tablespoonful of warm water; beat again. Dip the mush- rooms first in the egg, then in the bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat, just as you would oysters. Serve at once. CLAVARIA Clavaria or coral mushroom grows in large bunches in woods. One variety is saffron color, another white, another a bluish gray; all are exceedingly delicate and tender. These are best pickled or deviled. DEVILED CLAVARIA Wash, separate the bunches and cut them fine. Measure; allow to each quart a half pint of white sauce. Throw the Clavaria into a saucepan, cover and steam on the back part of the stove while you make the sauce. Take from the fire, add the Clavaria, a teaspoonful of salt, a dash of cayenne, and the yolks of two eggs; turn the mixture into a baking dish, sprinkle the top with bread crumbs and brown in a quick oven. PICKLED CLAVARIA Wash thoroughly without breaking. Put into a steamer and steam continuously for fifteen minutes. Take from the fire, and when cool pack in glass jars. Heat sufficient vinegar to cover; to each quart allow two bay leaves, six cloves, a tea- spoonful of whole mustard, one dozen pepper corns. Bring to the boiling point. Pour over the Clavaria, fasten the jars and put aside to cool. These will keep all winter, and may be used as a pickle or on lettuce leaves with French dressing as a salad. CANTHARELLUS This group is distinguished by the form of gills, which are decurrent, forked, sometimes irregular; in some species look like veins, 346 MRS. RORER’S NEW COOK BOOK Cantharellus cibarius is known to most persons as the “chan- tarell,” and is one of the best of the edible mushrooms. The entire mushroom, cap, gills and stem, is of a rich chrome yellow. When broken it has a faint odor of ripe peach. It grows in the woods, especially under hemlocks, generally in clusters of twos or threes. Thése are best stewed with cream. MORCHELLA (Morels or Cup-Fungi) These are different in shape from the ordinary mushrooms. The cap is cup shaped, the outside of which is covered with pits irregularly arranged. The Morchella esculenta is the one best known. It grows in orchards in the early spring. These mushrooms may be stewed, baked or panned, but are best stuffed. Remove the stems, wash and drain. Make a stuffing of fine bread crumbs, seasoned with salt and pepper and chopped parsley and sufficient melted butter.to moisten. Stuff the mushrooms; stand them in a baking pan, add a table- | spoonful of butter and a half cup of stock. Bake thirty minutes, dish and put into the pan in which they weré cooked one cupful of strained tomatoes. Boil rapidly fifteen minutes, or until slightly thickened, and strain it over the mushrooms. Gar- nish with triangular pieces of toast, and send at once to the table. BEEFSTEAK ( Fistulina hepatica) This mushroom grows like a great red tongue on chestnut trees. It appears about August and continues until frost. The acid or sour taste makes them unpalatable alone, but as a sauce for beefsteak or for catsup they are excellent. BEEFSTEAK SAUCE Remove the soft upper skin and cut off the pores. Cut the mushrooms into strips. To each pound allow a tablespoonful of butter, a half cup of stock, a half teaspoonful of salt, a half teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet. Put all the ingredients with the mushrooms in the saucepan. Cover closely and stew slowly a half hour. Pour over a well broiled beefsteak, or serve with roasted mutton, VEGETABLES 347 PUFF BALLS (Lycoperdon) All puff balls are edible when young and fresh. The flesh must be white to the very centre. Do not use them if they have the slightest yellow tinge. The giant puff ball (Lycoperdon giganteum) is the largest species of the genus. I have seen this variety in Indiana and Iowa weighing from seven to nine pounds. PUFF BALLS 4a la POULETTE Pare the puff balls, cut them into slices, then into dice. Put them in a saucepan, allowing one tablespoonful of butter to each pint of blocks. Cover and stew gently fifteen minutes. Lift the lid, and add a level teaspoonful of salt, a half saltspoonful of pepper, and again cover the saucepan. Beat the yolks of three eggs, add to them a half cup of cream. Add this to the sauce- pan; shake until smoking hot, but do not allow them to boil. Serve at once on toast. Puff balls, mild in flavor, may be cooked with Agaricus campestris in equal quantities ; the mixture improves the flavor of both. Puff balls are very good pared, cut into slices, seasoned and sautéd in hot oil; they may also be broiled. BOLETUS This group contains a large number of varieties. They belong to the same genera as the beefsteak mushrooms. The spores are not borne on gills as in the common mushrooms, but in pores or tubes; these pores give the under surface the appear- ance of a fine sponge. The flesh is soft and quickly decays. To cook cut off the thick stem close to the pores. Wash the caps and remove the pores. Dust the caps with salt and pepper, dip them in beaten egg, roll in bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat. Serve at once with tomato catsup. 348 MRS. RORER'S NEW COOK BOOK MUSHROOM CATSUP Wash and slice two quarts of mushrooms. Put a layer in the bottom of a stone jar. Sprinkle over a teaspoonful of salt, then another layer of mushrooms, another teaspoonful of salt, and so continue until the jar is full. Cover and stand aside over night. Next day drain the liquor from the mushrooms and chop them fine. Measure the liquor; put it into a porcelain lined kettle and to each pint allow a saltspoonful of pepper, a blade of mace, two whole cloves, a teaspoonful of mustard seed, a saltspoonful of ground ginger, and two bay leaves. Boil five minutes; strain; add the mushrooms; boil again five minutes, take from the fire, add a half cup of port wine, bottle, cork and seal. TO DRY MUSHROOMS The Agaricus campestris, Lepiota procera, Russula and Can- tharellus are among the best varieties for this purpose. Remove the stems; do not wash, but string them on a long cord, using a darning or trussing needle. Hang them in the sun and wind, or over the kitchen range where the heat will be sufficient to thoroughly dry in a few hours. Put them away in a box lined with paper. Keep in a perfectly dry place. To cook, soak them in a little water or milk and cool them without draining. TO CAN MUSHROOMS Wash the mushrooms, remove the stems and pack the caps into glass jars, adjust the rubbers, put the lids on loosely, and stand the jars in a wash boiler, the bottom of which has been pro- tected with a rack. Surround the jars half way up with cold water. Cover the boiler, bring to boiling point, and boil con- tinuously one and a half hours. Fill two jars from a third. Screw on the tops, stand them back at once into the boiler, cover the boiler, cook twenty minutes longer, lift and when quite cold, give the tops another turn. For canning, select Agaricus campestris, Russula, Lactarius deliciosus or Lepiota procera. VEGETABLES 849 A GROUP OF VEGETABLES CONTAINING SUGAR, NO STARCH New, or green peas Beets New, or green corn Carob beans YOUNG GREEN PEAS These are very rich in water, have little mineral matter, and if it were not for the sugar they contain would be placed with succulent vegetables. In menu building they are always served with starchy foods or meats. They are palatable and easy of digestion, when cooked simply. For invalids and children, however, they should be pressed through a colander to remove the hulls, and served either mashed or made into a purée. COMPOSITION Water oye wie ee Qh Ea ee aw SS ew 78.1 Proteid gsc ee he ac ee a RG 4.0 SUGAR ere a a es a aw 16.0 Bat acer ke Se Bo Behar wie cae? Bw ho we 0.5 Gellulosés:-