yy Ah SEUNG ATRIA H OTN SENAY ata fy a ae x3 1 Siti} bas sae vec ss GS er ee: becca us a ee ce 2h ERED sare ny es toe Ave NAPE ret earn Pee Tee w TSN PUR Ltt PCat Bi ho th Fa Va ALBERT RK. MANN LIBRARY AT CORNELL UNIVERSITY Cornell University Library “TA THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING qwoay WACN—"D *q “uosBuryse yy ‘aenoyy FTA SSITIT WALVM JO NOLLVALLIND AHL UOd NISVE THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING GIVING IN FULL DETAIL ALL THE PRACTICAL INFORMATION NECESSARY TO THE SELECTION, GROUPING AND SUCCESSFUL CULTIVATION OF AQUATIC AND OTHER PLANTS REQUIRED IN THE MAKING OF A WATER GARDEN AND ITS SURROUNDINGS, AND COVERING ALL CONDITIONS FROM THAT OF THE AMATEUR WITH A FEW PLANTS IN TUBS TO THE LARGE ESTATE OR PARK BY PETER BISSET PROFUSELY ILLUSTRATED WITH ONE HUNDRED AND TWENTY HALFTONES SEVENTEEN DIAGRAMS AND TWO DOUBLE PAGE PLATES NEW YORK A. T. DE LA MARE PRINTING AND PUBLISHING CO. LTD. 1907 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED CopyricHT, 1905 BY A T. DeLa Mare Paintine anp Pusuisninc Co. Lrp. Aut Ricuts Resgrvep szueyd i9q}O pue sasseIc, fo Burzueyd posuere AT[NF939e} & GRIM papunoszins Jood 347 lepraqéy eaoerrey 24} JO aWlOs pue sari] aatzeU se PuNosByDeG 94} Ur : satTI] Aurarooyq zYArU [eI2ZAI5 a1e puNoABII0F 944 Ur SuInsoioads UINIqUIN[aAy 243 JO Gaaea] ay} 349] SuLIIzx9 Oy} 0} W998 9q SeUL aINyzoId aq} UT “3809 Ze248 JNOYZM 70] A710 & UT DAeY Aer sUOAUE 4243 Jods PuruLIEyD Naddvod WALVM SANALVWNVY NV CHAPTER PAGE TL SFOREWORD! 6 s.sc6e ea a seca ge a OPENS a Ewe PMNs eae he eS Be or Ge ee eR orien 12 II Ponps AND BASINS.........0: cece ee eect tee teen e teen ete eee nee etens 17 The Importance of a Carefully Selected Site—Making Artificial Ponds.. 17 An Excellent Material for Artificial Pond Making................-..00- 19 EXCAVATING ddaveawer cies Seadcaa ir yaaelba Maat as wee ena eG Sitaiea. a: acetals 20 Natural .Ponds.............20-.00 0 (ieikadesiata Shae tck eames ar Basins. forthe Amateut suc ssces gene ne egensted deangaadea es eewe eneuniee ees 25 IIT WINDBREAKS AND MARGINS..........0 ccc cece cee cece een ee tee eee tee tee tnne eae 31 DV AS Ors decors ds Schad iss aan aauannen eae os A Uae a cata ape IRe we le ey wie hageas Rhlaid aN aha 42 Making the Compost—Fertilizers........... 0.6 ccc c eee eee eee renee 42 Soil: for: Seedlings:...2cess soaesenpanccoe wen weasenie erg see ulveoqaee 43 Vo PLANTING AND WINTERING 62:5 eeec cence: venegue nanan tee geeeaeaewan eb eongS 44 Planting in Soil on Bottom of Pond............. 0. cece cece eee eee 44 Planting in Soil in Boxes or Tubs.......... 0c. ccc cece eee ee eens 46 Cultural Directions for Aquatics.............. 5c cece eee eee e eee ees 47 Wintering Tubers and Rhizomes........... 0... cece cece eee eee eee ee 47 Vio HARDY “WATER: LILIES... osie'etci ancien: a vectere aca sede Cage de ¥iawWiwaele sea man aune 49 Selections of the Best Hardy Water Lilies ...............00..0.0...0.. 60 VAT SO NEBUMBIUMS? jade sadsocesauincnt $4.44 4 cee Seek Gacnue Ss Aw eine warlowsa Gases 61 Their Desirability in the Water Garden............... 0.0... ccc cece eee 61 In Boxes Submerged in Pond.............. cece e eee c ue eee eeeeeeuees 62 Grown in Boxes or Half Barrels—Grown in Tubs on the Lawn.......... 64 [4] CONTENTS— Continued CHAPTER VI HEATING THE TropicaL Lity BASIN.........0000ccccccccscceeeecececececcceee ee TENDER OR TROPICAL WATER LILIES.........0.ccccccccceccceuueceecccccecce 74 Day? BIO we rings 4 a.cited ts vcs eccs nia dicot else ees ab argsaneigoeodieeounespScnanaes kuleaeanee 74 Night: SHlowéningicsg eras Soe ca vi caloesaatahad ahead ae sss eeuew aoe 81 OS VICTORIA," REGIA A28 giaida oie races deatseen ae tiem hcieets Sas saesas walheveecscel ad tea sien 88 XI THE SMALL WATER GARDEN. 2.0.0... ccc cc cece cc ccecccseuescceeuueceeeunneees 98 Selections of the Best Water Lilies and Aquatic Plants for the Beginner 98 XII MIscertangcous AQUATIC PLANTS......000.ccccecccccccccccccuuceuvecuceenes 100 XII THe Aguatic PLant GREENHOUSE. ...... 00000 cc cece cece eee e eee teeeeeten ects 115 Water Lilies for Winter Flowering Ais rea taeda er an hax eek eae tied iad aad 12I XIV PRopaGaTION oF WATER LILIES.......... 0. cece cece ccececcccuceeeucuctueucuces 123 Raising Water Lilies from Seed.............0.0.. ccc c ccc ececeeeeeuees » 123 Propagation of Tender Water Lilies.........0... cc cece cee cecuceueaes 126 By Division—Hybridizing and Seed Saving............... pats iaepsssi teach 130 Water Lilies that Bear Seed......... cece ccc cece eee n eee e enn ees 131 XV Tue CommercraL Cur FLower GROWER...........eccccececcecuceceusuceeens 133 XVI Tenper Sus-TropicaAL PLants ror MarcINs AND BorpDERS........... Oa seled wale 137 XVII Harpy PERENNIALS For Marcin AND BorDER PLANTING .......0-00sceueeeees 144 XVITI Native Orcuins, SARRACENIAS AND OTHER BoG PLANTS........0.0.0c0eueuees 165 XIX Harpy Ferns.............. peladingt Gara Se MESES Ree cance ae aah Gernot s 172 XX ORNAMENTAL GRASSES AND BAMBOOS.......0.0 cc eee cee sees e ence eee eeseeeeeens 179 XXI_ Insects, DISEASES, AND ENEMIES. ....... ccc cece ccc een e eee n nee tennneneeee 186 Aphides—A Destructive Leaf Miner............ 00s cece eee eee eee +... 186 The Nymphea Leaf Beetle—Other Larval Pests...... 2.0.0.0... eeee 187 A> Hung oid! “Diseases cniaiel ad tanh ote eantee bak Oo awe PR MRO OE Leas 188 Alge—Conferve—Rats and Mice............ ccc ccc cece ence eee eees 189 The Water Snake—Turtles—Crawfish............... Uneweedeadian hase 190 XXII Gorp and OTHER FISH FOR PONDS..........0. 0. cece cee c eee eect een nee 191 ILLUSTRATIONS Basin for the Cultivation of Water Lilies............. 0. cece eee eee eee eee Frontispiece Amateur’s Water Garden, An... cicsasaueretceisaeavocset ee waded sae den ee eties eens 3 Victoria regia (Tricker’s variety), Pond View of ........... cc eee cece eee e ence eens 8 Nymphza Marliacea rosea, Ornamental Sprays of..........cccc cece cece e reece eeeeeees 15 Hardy Nymphea in a Large, Artificial Basin............ sce c eee eee eee eee eee 16 Victoria regia in Lincoln Park, Chicago, Ill......... 0.0... cece cece eee eee eee eee nes 21. Inlet for Water to Pond (Diagram)......... 0.000 cece cece cece eee teens 22 A Terrace Water Garden (Diagram)....... 0... cece cece cece eect nee nenneeae 23 Plan for a Brick Wall (Diagram) .. 2.0.0... .0.0c0cseccc ewe e eset e wen eeernnneraeyenen 24 An Old Mill Lead on an Amateur’s Place (Two Views)......0...0:ccceeeeeeeeeee eens 26 Small Water Gardens on the Lawn, Suggestive Designs for (Four Diagrams)......... 27 Water Lily Basin on the Lawn, Suggestion for a (Diagram).................ceee eee 28. Water Lily Basin for the Lawn, A Small (Diagram)............ 0... ccc cece e cence 29 Fountain Basin, Washington, D. C............ ccc cece cece cece tte eee tect rece eenes 30 Pines and Spruces for the Protection of the Water Garden, A Windbreak of.......... 33 Water’s Edge Planting—Hardy Hybrid Rhododendrons, 35; Rhododendron maximum, The: ‘Great: ‘Leaved’ ‘Laurels dania cone rmawvan vockg seus as wane agen ened eke 37. Kalmia latifolia at the Edge of a Pond.......... cece ccc cence eee tenet enees 39 Amateur’s Water Garden, An (Three Views)........... 0c cc cece cece nce n eee e eens 41 [5] ILLUSTRATI ONS—Continued PAGE Nymphea odorata W. B. Shaw, 50; Nymphza odorata Mary exquisita, 52; Nymphea alba, 53; Nymphza Marliacea albida, 54; Nymphza Marliacea chromatella, 55; Nymphea Gladstoniana—Nymphza tetragona, 56; Nymphea odorata Luciana, 57; Nymphza James Brydon, 57; Nymphza gloriosa...........:.0eee seer eres » Ainateuiis: Pool. An ecastciarsccitacesosnnada ga Vawbasa Ke ae omiiad ¥ Pagan tenad epee eee S Root or Rhizome of Nelumbium..............0 00.0 cece cence cnet ene een teens .- 63 Nelumbium Pekinensis rubrum, 65; Nelumbium roseum plenum, 66; Nelumbium Pekin- ensis rubrum flore pleno, 67; Nelumbium Shiroman.............+.--e.+eereeee 68 A Heated Pool, A Suggestion for (Two Diagrams)..........-0.seeceeeer eee seeetneee 79 Heating a Pool or Basin from the Boiler of the Dwelling-House (Three Diagrams) -o. 72 Nymphea gigantea, 74; Nymphza Zanzibarensis rosea, 76; Nymphza pulcherrima, 77; Nympheza Pennsylvania, 78; Nymphza gracilis, 79; Nymphza William Stone, 80; Nymphea dentata superba, 82; Nymphea dentata magnifica, 82; Nymphea Jubilee, 83; Nymphza Devoniensis, 84; Nymphza rubra rosea, 85; Nymphea O’Marana, 85; Nymphea Sturtevanti, 86; Nymphza Bisseti.........-.+++++0+-++ 87 Euryale ferox, Flower of........cc cc cece cece cece e cece nen e ene ee neon eenaeeenennas 88 Victoria regia, A Fine Plant of, Grown Without Artificial Heat..........-.--+ esse eee 89 Victoria regia, Two Well-Grown Specimens of the............ 0 0c cece cece eset en eee 90 Victoria. regia, Flower: Of: oes ccc ncnads naaentead oo ede cen SENSE RS OOEEY Peas Thee 92 Victoria regia, Under Side of a Leaf of........ ccc cece cece eee erent ene e neers 93 Victoria regia Trickeri, Flower of......... 0c. cece cece ene een eee eee een eee nee ennes 94 Victoria, regia. Randi; Flowet Of: ccnoscae.gccec sv eneaa s diganna dis Die cae eee dente eens 95 Nymphea Marliacea rosea, Sprays Of........ cess cece cece ence rent ee nen senenaees 99 Aponogeton distachyum, Leaf and Flower of—Cape Pond Weed.........-....-eeeeee es 101 Cyperus Papyrus—The True Egyptian Paper Plant............ 0. cece eee eee neces 102 Eichhornia speciosa—Water Hyacinth............ 0... e eee e cence eee eee e teen ne eeee 104 Limnocharis HumboldtiimWater Poppy........... ccc ccc cece cee eet teen nee e nee ee anes 107 Ouvirandra fenestralis—Lace Leaf Plant........... 0.0 ec cece cece ene een eeneneeee 109 Water Plants; Eight. Desirable: cs. cciosicgicenstdees sosnuecada sede eeebea seedee yt heee 4 IIL Nymphza Marliacea chromatella, Sprays Of......... 0. cece cece cence eee nett tenet eee Il4 Aquatic Plant Greenhouse at Schenley Park, Pittsburg, Pa.............cc cece cence eee 116 Aquatic Plant Greenhouse of Samuel Untermeyer, Esq., at Greystone, Yonkers, N. Y... 117 Greenhouse for Aquatic Plants, Curvilinear, Sectional View of............. Ge sbrseshoat 118 Greenhouse, Interior Plan of Aquatic Curvilinear...... 0... ccc cece cece cece e cence 119 Aquatic Plant Pool at Bronx Park, N. Y. (Before the Water is Turned On).......... 120 eed) Vessels Ry pes: Oty sda ioe 4 Aca uaielon Sen s race sadoeseashus a atjcluwu acini ole dete useacatlers bie x waht 124 Roots of the Water Lilies, Types of....0.0 00... c ccc cece cece ence cececeesueueeeenens 127 Roots of Hardy Water Lilies, Typical aaa ciceree Sinem vure enact gs darauagen te a teaneoeaeauna sales aanties 129 Hardy Water Lilies, Types of....... 00.00. cece cece eee e eee eeseeeeuteeetutectuenrbrens 132 Nelumbium speciosum at H: A. Dreer’s, Riverton, N. J.........c.ccccccceccucceceesues 135 Calathea (maranta) zebrina........ 0.00. ccc cece cece cece cece ete eeeevneernebteterbenes 138 Sub-Tropical Plants at Water’s Edge.......0. 00.00 cece cece cee ceetuteecececceceees 139 Cyperus alternifolius, The Umbrella Plant.......0.. 0.00 cece cect tcc cececcccececucuees 140 Fatsia papyrifera (Rice Paper Plant)........0. 00. cece cecac cece cece veg ec cece ceceeee. 141 Musa Ensete, Abyssinian Banana...........0. 000s ccc ceecceccueeuceutcuveeveeececeees 142 Acorus Calamus variegata—Variegated Sweet Flag.... 00... e ccc cec ccc cccccccecceece. 145 Bocconia’ Cordata jes dg ends warding 04 laa bets eacnd ein avaadsa andro nenldiccdnch dees epee aun eo bcdevne is 1A7 Clematis. pamiculatay iis cts vices secs yd aa eaten eee eee baw Minodna ow Ea hee dann esate 148 Dicentra spectabilis—Bleeding Heart......... 0000 cote cece cece cece cece cece cc ecce oe. 149 Digitalis purpurea—Foxglove ....... 20.66. e cece cece eee c eee e eee e eevee cece cece eee. 150 Guintiera sta bias: Soils aieccaauhidite Lita ane Midis ola) cian wane wale ld Or lat baker 151 galas so aidanals meat Geigy aya naa Gea Aeweta ge halaena unde gp ehihed Rie ee aa 153 Iris: laevigata ..(Kamptert) 420 iisicciehs 4 pavdvanenacaudiea ees pan Demos yonse bes oeeassnneen 154 Peltandra undulata spe inkena se id HRD an cGN Odile ish anlar nalace 4c4ro atale aches Bie eek doa sada leans I Pontederia cordata—Pickerel Weed 0.0.00... 0... occeceeeececeee cece. 18 ILLUSTRATIONS—Concluded PAGE Pyrethrum uliginosum—Giant Ox-Eye Daisy..........0 00 ccc cece cece e eee c cette en nents 159 Spireaa Aruncus—Goat’s Beard Spiraa....... 0... ccc cc cece ete cece treet eee enes 161 ‘Thalia deal bata’ sje iin te acca higy oc tesssn asl veraien a ois acannon, bee neice watuenee Saree eee HEME R EA 162 ‘Typha. latitolia—Cat= Tail’ esis cages ade ors ienus death bate eda dads b2U3 Ee oR Kes 164 Cypripedium pubescents—Large Yellow Lady’s Slipper.............. ccc cee en eee e ees 166 Cypripedium, remind. fiat cae tak ween cu eaten eae Acta can cae aa aamt ig dln 167 Sarracenia flava—Pitcher Plant, 168; Sarracenia purpurea..............0.eceeee eee eee 169 Dionza muscipula—Venus’s Fly-Trap...... 0... ccc e ct ccc ccc ce erence ene te tne neeeees 170 Rustic: House tat: Ponds cis swiss: Se eccuawanian e's antiad Suisse d waa aia vous Snatched eae 171 Ferns, Fine Clumps of, for a Shady Bank........ 0.0... c ccc cece ence eet eee tees eee 73 Dryopteris marginalis—Rock Shield Fern ...........0 ccc ccc cece cence ene n ence en enes 174 Hlowerng Ferns, Frorids. Of <2 242.55 aascse econ su uli We hecle bb wei ace tind dean arpa Fe 175 Osmunda regalis, Plant of, The Royal Fern......... 0.0... cece cece cee cece eee teeeeene 176 Ferns, Fronds of Six Varieties, 177; Fronds of Four Varieties.............0ceeeeeeeee 178 Arundo: Donax macrophylla: givi0 si. uate: ye dailoec-a ¥alabu niarecBicradejadeik’s Bea wnceiviansieen sewed 179 Phyllostachys aurea—Bambusa aurea............ ccc eee c cece ence e nent eeeeeteeenes 181 Erianthus: Ravenneevicgid soda vd oie a iisesonek Waleed a idvea 8 da RERMNORS SG Ete toe 182 Eulalia :gracillima:-wntvittatas axcca4 ceycacus opin ag edee be adced aedesd Reece had Moet ney 183 Gynerium argenteum—Pampas GrassS.......... 0.0 0c cece eet eee ene nes 184 Hulaha: Japonica variegata sc. soy. xan p 34454. No skeen eea Hab OWN Fake aaa aa yess 185 Gold Fish—Common Gold Fish and Golden Ide..... 0.0... ccc eee eee 193 Gold Fish, Types of Fine Japanese.......... 0... c cece cece eee e nent eeeeteeeeeneeennes 195 DOUBLE PAGE PLATES Water Garden at Twin Oaks, The, Washington, D. C. .............055 Between pages 80-81 Formal Water Garden, Design of a (Diagram)...................25 Between pages 144-145 i NYMPHAEA MARLIACEA ROSEA [7] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING A[eo zeaq uns TV1VM NN A SMALL WATER LILY BASIN FOR THE LAWN It is suggested that No. 1 be planted with Nelumbium speciosum; No 2 with Nelumbium Pekinense rubrum; No. 3 with Nymphaea Gladstoniana ; No. 4 with Nymphaea Zanzibarensis; No 5 with Nymphaea Marliacea chromatella ; No 6 with Nymphaea Marliacea rosea ; No. 7 with Nymphaea Mrs. C. W. Ward ; No 8 with Nymphaea Gloriosa The circles and squares represent half barrels and boxes in which to grow the plants If the cost of building a cement basin exceeds the amount one desires to expend, very good results can be obtained by purchasing a large hogshead, saw- ing it in two and sinking the tubs thus formed into the lawn so that the edges will be level with the grass. Water lilies or Nelumbiums planted in these tubs will give many beautiful flowers. A series of such tubs can be arranged that will be very attractive. Place a large one, filled with Nelumbiums, in the center, and [29] THEJBOOK OF WATER GARDENING surround this larger one with a number of smaller tubs, filled with a selection of the hardy or tender day-flowering lilies. If these tubs be coated with tar on the outside to preserve the wood and buried to their edge in the grass, they will look more natural. A selection of Japanese Iris, or any Fern or other moisture- loving plant desired, can be planted between the tubs. One need never be deterred from growing this beautiful class of plants for want of a basin; the lilies will do better in a basin without a doubt, but excellent results have been obtained by using half barrels, set on the surface of the ground, placing one plant in each receptacle. One enterprising amateur makes use of an old bathtub with entire satisfaction. Whatever style of basin is adopted, the requirements are practically the same —sufficient good, rich soil with at least six inches of water above it, and two goldfish in each half barrel to keep down mosquitoes. When goldfish are placed in the barrels it is well to have some other vessel plunged in the soil so as to af- ford the fish a hiding place from the cat, as pussy is generally fond of fish, and if the water in the basin or pool be shallow she can easily reach them. FOUNTAIN BASIN, WASHINGTON, D. C. Center filled with Myriophyllum proserpinacoides (Parrot's Feather) [30] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING CHAPTER III WINDBREAKS AND MARGINS HE water lily pond, or basin, should be fully protected from the cold and high wind storms generally preva- lent from the north, northwest and sometimes from the northeast. If no buildings or nearby hillsides afford this protection, recourse must be had to a wall, a hedge, or a belt of evergreen or deciduous trees, so planted as to answer the purpose in view. és : “| The amount of space available will decide the method of protection. If the space be limited, there is nothing better than an evergreen hedge of Norway Spruce (Picea excelsa) ; this is a fine hardy ever- green, of dense habit of growth, well suited to form a windbreak. It grows quickly, reaching at maturity a height of from 60 to 100 feet, while in favorable localities it will attain a height of 150 feet. The branches are slender, in regular pseudo-whorls from the base up; the branches are gently decurved with the tips upturned, the higher branches spread horizontally, while the uppermost ones point upward. This fir can be cut back every year, as is an ordinary hedge. of Privet ; or it can be planted from three to twelve feet apart and allowed to grow naturally. can Arbor vite. This is a fine hardy evergreen, and one of the best hedge plants for screens and windbreaks, especially if the ground space is limited. It is a tall, upright growing tree, with a spread of four to six feet, attaining a height of from 30 to 60 feet, with very dense foliage. This tree can also be sheared in every year, as is done with a hedge plant, but the effect will be better if the trees are planted three feet apart and allowed to grow naturally. Tsuga Canadensis (Hemlock Spruce) is another beautiful evergreen well adapted for a hedge; it is indeed an ideal tree for a windbreak, either grown naturally or planted close and treated as a hedge plant. It is a very hardy tree, and where it gets enough sunlight it will be furnished with branches to the ground. The branches are slender and spreading; the lower ones deflex by [31] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING their own weight; the foliage is of a dark green color above, and silvery gray underneath. While only three kinds have been mentioned any evergreen can be used that grows sufficiently close, and that will succeed in the locality where the plant- ing is done. If the grounds are extensive, and a broad belt of planting can be carried out, it is well to have a background of large deciduous trees, such as Oaks, Beeches, Maples, Lindens and Tulip Poplars; while in the foreground can be planted some of the more valuable evergreen trees, such as Pinus Strobus, the American White Pine, which is one of the noblest of evergreens, growing from 80 to 100 feet in height. Its slender threadlike leaves are from three to four inches in length, of ; bluish green color with silvery lines on the flat surface, giving the tree a silvery blue effect. As the White Pine loses its lower branches as it gets older it should , be planted next to the deciduous trees. Pinus excelsa, the Bhotan Pine, is a very handsome tree, with long, droop- ing slender leaves of grayish green color, from five to seven inches in length. The tree grows to a height of from 50 to 150 feet; it is a native of the Himalaya Mountains, and is well adapted for a windbreak, for, unlike Pinus Strobus, when planted in a favorable location it retains its lower branches to the ground, making a tree not only valuable as a windbreak, but, with its long, slender leaves, giving the effect of a graceful weeping tree. It is also a beautiful specimen for the lawn. Pinus Cembra is another fine dense growing medium sized tree, of from 50 to 70 feet in height, with silvery green foliage and branches down to the ground; it is one of the finest of the Pines for lawn planting. -Pinus Austriaca, the Austrian Pine, is one of the hardiest of the Pine fam- ily, of dense growth in the young state, with very dark green, rigid leaves, three to five inches in length. This tree also loses its lower branches as it gets older; when full grown it will be without limbs for about one-half its height. It grows from 60 to 100 feet high, and with its very dark green, almost black foliage, is an excellent tree for the background as a setting for the more valuable ones. In Abies Nordmanniana we have one of the best of the Firs, a beautiful sub- ject with dense, dark green foliage, silvery white underneath. The branches are rigid, horizontal, or ascending. The tree grows from’ 75 to 150 feet in height. Abies Cephalonica is a strong, vigorous tree, reaching a height of from 50 to 60 feet, with wide spreading horizontal branches, and dark lustrous green leaves. [32] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING Abies concolor is a beautiful tree of close dense growth; it has light glaucous green leaves, giving the tree an attractive color of bluish white. Picea pungens glauca Kosteri (Koster’s form of the Colorado Blue Spruce), is the handsomest of the Spruce family. The type comes from the mountains of Colorado, and has beautiful silvery blue colored leaves. It grows to a height of from 80 to 100 feet, has stout, rigid, horizontal branches, and a fine dense habit of growth. It is a good ornamental lawn tree as well as being useful as a -wind- break. In front of the evergreens above mentioned the smaller growing ones should be planted, such as the golden Arbor vita, Thuya occidentalis lutea (T. George 28 son A WINDBREAK OF PINES AND SPRUCES FOR THE PROTECTION OF THE WATER GARDEN Peabody) ; this is a fine low tree of pyramidal habit of growth; the young fol- iage of the current year’s growth is bright yellow, the older foliage green varie- gated with yellow. Thuya occidentalis Verveeneana is a smaller and denser tree than the type; the branchlets of the current year’s growth are tinged with deep golden yellow, changing in Winter to brownish orange. [33] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING Thuya occidentalis fastigiata (T. o. pyramidalis) is a fine evergreen of a tall, narrow fastigiate form, and close green leaves. Thuya occidentalis Wareana is another tree of denser growth and deeper brighter green foliage than the type; the branches are short, horizontal at first, then ascending. Thuya occidentalis Sibirica is a dense growing pyramidal evergreen, with deep green leaves, which retain their color well through the Winter; is very hardy, and makes a fine iawn specimen, being also valuable as a hedge plant for windbreaks. Libocedrus decurrens is another fine dark glossy green leaved evergreen, of tall columnar habit, growing from 100 to 150 feet in height; it makes a beautiful specimen. The Japanese Cypress, or Retinisporas, are all fine showy evergreens well adapted for windbreaks. — Thuya gigantea is another evergreen of fine dense habit; it has dark green leaves and grows to a height of from 150 to 200 feet. This, unlike the common Arbor vite, stays green all Winter, while the latter turns a deep brown at the approach of cold weather. Cupressus obtusa is a tall growing tree, eventually reaching a height of from 70 to 100 feet. It is of pyramidal growth in the young state, with branches to the ground; as it gets older the tree loses its lower branches and assumes a rounded top. This is a beautiful evergreen. Cupressus obtusa aurea is a fine variety similar to the type, with deep golden yellow foliage during the growing season. Cupressus pisifera is a smaller and more slender tree than C. obtusa; the fol- iage is dark green, with a decided yellow tinge during the growing season. Cupressus pisifera aurea is one of the best yellow colored evergreens, the whole growth of the current year being of a rich yellow which fades to the nor- mal color the second year. This variety is quite distinct from C. plumosa aurea and is a better tree. Cupressus pisifera filifera is a fine low growing tree, with deep green foliage; the young growth is thread-like and pendant, giving a graceful weeping habit and forming a close growing, attractive tree. | Cupressus pisifera filifera aurea is a beautiful variety with all of the current year’s growth colored a light golden yellow. [34] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING Cupressus pisifera plumosa is a tree with dense dark green foliage and a conical habit of growth. Cupressus pisifera plumosa aurea is a variety of Cupressus plumosa, the terminal growth of the current year being of a light golden yellow. Cupressus pisifera squarrosa Veitchii is the best form of the squarrosa type. The foliage is of a beautiful silvery blue, similar to that of a fine form of the Colorado Blue Spruce. The leaves are very fine, arranged in spirals, giving tu the tree a beautiful graceful effect. WATER'S EDGE PLANTING-HARDY HYBRID RHODODENDRONS From left to right; R. album elegans, R. President Lincoln, R. roseum elegans In the foreground of the trees named should be planted a choice assortment of flowering shrubs; or, if more desirable, a number of the dwarf evergreens, such as Picea excelsa pumila, a dwarf, compact Spruce of perfect symmetrical habit. Picea excelsa pumila compacta grows from five to six feet in height and has dark green compact foliage. Juniperus sabina is a spreading shrub or low tree of variable habit; it grows from four to ten feet in height. Juniperus sabina prostrata is a low growing evergreen, lying flat on the ground; it has light bluish green leaves. [35] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING Juniperus sabina tamariscifolia is a low spreading, vigorous variety, with bright green leaves. Juniperus communis aurea (Douglas’ Golden Juniper) is a beautiful low growing yellow colored evergreen; the young growth is a brilliant yellow during the growing season. Juniperus Chinensis albo-variegata is a dwarf evergreen of dense columnar habit, many of the branchlets being cream white in color. Juniperus Chinensis aurea is a beautiful plant, with all of the young growth a golden yellow color. Juniperus Chinensis procumbens is a dwarf low spreading evergreen. Juniperus Chinensis procumbens aurea is a variety of the preceding, having the young growth tinged with yellow. In Juniperus Chinensis procumbens aurea variegata many of the young branchlets are tinged with deep golden yellow. Cupressus obtusa pygmea (Retinispora) is a very desirable low growing evergreen, of deep color, rarely reaching more than two feet in height. It is of dense growth, spreading horizontally. Cupressus obtusa aurea is a small growing) form, with deep golden yellow fol- iage. Pinus montana (P. Mughus) is a low growing, rigid Pine, of semi-pros- trate habit. It has dark green foliage. The foregoing forms a list of trees all of which are well suited to protect the pond from wind, and at the same time will provide a beautiful and interesting border of trees. Whatever trees are selected, they should be planted in an irregular belt if the width of ‘the ground will allow of this being done. By so doing a more natural planting will be obtained, and an undulating margin that will present a much better appearance than if the trees are planted in straight rows. All of the subjects mentioned above are suitable for windbreaks, but they will not succeed on low, wet swampy soil; if the surroundings of the pond are of this character, the gtound should be drained and filled to a higher level if this is possible. If this is not practicable, then a planting of such trees as succeed well in low, wet ground should be selected, such as Platanus occidentalis (the American Plane or Buttonwood). This is a stately, wide spreading tree, of vigorous quick growth and heavy foliage; the bark peels off from the trunk in wide sheets, leaving the trunk showing great patches of white. [36] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING “ Liriodendron tulipifera (White Wood or Tulip Poplar) succeeds well in low, wet soil. It grows rapidly, forming a large, broad spreading tree, with fine light bluish green foliage. The tree bears in Spring tulip shaped flowers of a yel- lowish green color. It is best to transplant young trees of the Liriodendron in Spring; if old trees are moved they rarely survive the operation, and seldom live if moved in the Fall. WATER'S EDGE PLANTING-RHODODENDRON MAXIMUM. THE GREAT-LEAVED LAUREL A fine hardy evergreen flowering shrub Nyssa sylvatica (Sour Gum) is another native tree well adapted for low, wet situations. It is a tall tree of slender habit, growing from 40 to 60 feet in height, with small obovate or oval glossy leathery leaves that turn a bright, beau- tiful, flaming scarlet in the Fall. Liquidambar styraciflua (Sweet Gum) is a tree also of value for its beauti- ful colored leaves in Fall, which range from the greens through yellow purplish red to deep bronzy black, often all of these colors being present in the one leaf. [37] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING It likes a low, wet, marshy place. The leaves are palmate, five to seven-lobed, on leaf stalks six to seven inches long; the bark takes on a corky effect that is very interesting. The tree grows to a height of from 4o to 100 feet, according to the location. This is one of the best of the swamp trees. Quercus bicolor (Swamp White Oak) is a native, growing to a height of from 60 to 7o feet. The head is narrow and rounded; the leaves are four to seven inches long, the trunk covered with light gray bark. It likes a low, wet position. Quercus palustris (Pin Oak) is another native tree, growing from 60 to 120 feet in height. It is quick growing, and has beautiful deeply cut foliage with a decided yellow color to the young unfolding leaves, which take on brilliant Fall hues. It is a fine tree for low, wet ground, and is also the easiest of all the Oaks to transplant. Acer rubrum (Swamp or Red Maple) is a tree that will do well in any lo- cation; in the swamp or on the dry hillside it is perfectly at home. This tree has a beautiful, symmetrically rounded head when grown where it has room to develop. The flowers are bright red in Spring; the leaves, in Fall, turn bright yellow or scarlet, tinting the swamps all over the Eastern States with their beau- tiful colors. Betula nigra is a fine tree for low ground, growing from 50 to go feet in height. It has reddish brown bark, silvery gray on the young branches. Betula occidentalis reaches a height of from 30 to 40 feet and has slender branches and broad ovate leaves; it grows well in wet. soil. Salix Babylonica (Weeping Willow) is a beautiful weeping tree, very well adapted for growing in low, wet ground. It reaches a height of from 30 to 40 feet and has long, slender, drooping olive green branches. Salix Babylonica aurea is a variety of Salix Babylonica, with bright yellow bark that is very ornamental, especially in Winter. Salix vitellina aurea (Salix vitellina aurantiaca), Golden Willow, is a very effective tree; in Winter the branches and twigs are of a beautiful yellow color. In the immediate foreground should be planted Magnolia glauca, the Swamp Magnolia or Sweet Bay. This is a fine shrub or small evergreen tree. The leaves are bluish green above, with a silvery white reverse. The flowers are very sweet scented, of globular form, and cream colored when first opening. This Magnolia is quite at home in the swamps, but it also thrives in moist soil on higher ground. [38] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING Kalmia latifolia delights in a moist, peaty soil, and grows very well in swampy places if planted on low mounds. It is one of the most charming of the native flowering shrubs. The flowers, borne in large terminal clusters, are rose colored to white, with purple spots. It attains a height of from four to twelve feet. KALMIA LATIFOLIA AT THE EDGE OF A POND One of the most charming of the native flowering shrubs Rhododendron maximum, the Great Leaved Laurel, is a native Rhododen- dron of extreme hardiness, growing from ten to twenty feet in height. The leaves are narrow and oblong, from four to ten inches in length, bright green above, grayish white underneath. The flowers are borne in large clusters, colored pale rose with greenish spots within. Rhododendron maximum roseum is identical with the type, except in the flower, which is pink colored. [39] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING Rhododendron catawbiense is a native Rhododendron that never grows as tall as Rhododendron maximum, and is less desirable than it as a garden plant, except in high altitudes. It grows at a higher elevation than Rhododendron maximum, hence is not as well adapted as that plant to low ground. The flowers are lilac purple in color, the plant reaching a height of from six to fifteen feet. It is perfectly hardy in the New England States. Rhododendron punctatum is a smaller growing plant, never reaching over six feet in height. The branches are slender and spreading. The flowers, which are colored pale rose with green spots, are borne in small clusters. This is a very fine shrub, thriving well in wet soil. Azalea arborescens has fragrant, white or rose-tinted flowers, the plant growing from eight to ten feet in height. Azalea viscosa has flowers from white to rose in color, and grows from four to eight feet high. Azalea nudiflora grows to a height of from two to six feet; the flowers range in color from white to deep pink and open just before the leaves unfold. Azalea calendulacea has flowers ranging in color from orange yellow to red; it grows from four to ten feet high. : Azalea Vaseyi attains a height of from five to ten feet, and has beautiful pink flowers. All the Azaleas like a fine, peaty soil where they will have an abundant sup- ly of water. If planted in swamps they should be raised above the water on low mounds. Tlex verticillata (Winterberry) is a beautiful red-berried native shrub that delights in a low, wet position. The bright red berries are borne on the young twigs of the current year’s growth, and measure about one-quarter inch across. ' Cornus stolonifera (Red-stemmed Dogwood) is a very effective shrub for the water’s edge, growing from six to eight feet in height. The leaves are light green above and paler underneath. In Winter, the stems of the previous sea- son’s growth are of a bright red color. This shrub should be severely cut down every Spring, so as to encourage a strong growth of young shoots that will take on this beautiful red color the following Winter. Alnus rugosa (A. serrulata) is also well adapted for wet places; it grows from eight to twenty feet high and is perfectly hardy. All the trees and shrubs should be so planted and traversed by a walk that one can wander out and in among them. The full extent of the water should [40] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING never be seen from any one point, but at each turn of the path a fresh view of the pond should break upon the vision. (This is not desirable in the case of ponds of small size, as it would not only minimize the effect but also give a strained ar- tificial look to the pond.) This effect can be easily created by having at some parts steep banks, the tops planted with some of the trees or shrubs already named. At other points the water can be hidden from view by a planting of shrubs only. Always bear in mind that the pond should not be shaded from the south, southeast, and southwest; therefore, at these points only the smaller growing trees or shrubs should be used. Where the Rhododendrons thrive well no more beautiful and appropriate subjects can be selected for planting at the water’s edge, and a generous collection of both native and hybrid varieties should be employed. In planting the Rhododendrons the native kinds should be grouped; especially should this be done in the case of Rhododendron maximum, as it flow- ers much later than the hybrids, and it is always well to plant in groups the kinds that bloom at the same time. The following list of hybrid Rhododendrons furnishes a selection of the best of each color, which will aid intending purchasers: Rhododendron album grandi- florum, white and blush; Rhododendron blandum, white and yellow; Rhododen- dron Blandyanum, bright cherry; Rhododendron Everestianum, crimpled rosy lilac; Rhododendron General Grant, rosy scarlet; Rhododendron grandiflorum, large rosy crimson; Rhododendron gloriosum, blush, large flowers; Rhododen- dron perspicuum, clear white; Rhododendron purpureum grandiflorum, showy purple; Rhododendron roseum elegans, rose; Rhododendron Caractacus, large truss, rich purple crimson; and Rhododendron Abraham Lincoln, rosy red. Photographs by Mrs. Helen Ripley Eustis, North Tisbury, Mass. AN AMATEUR’'S WATER GARDEN From end of pond From front door of house From the bridge Nymphaea Marliacea chromatella Bridge in the distance Japan Iris and Ferns on the bank [41] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING CHAPTER IV SOIL supplied with good, rich soil in abundance. Those of the larger grow- ing, night blooming class make a great growth of root and leaves and must be afforded plenty of food in the soil, which should be of sufficient depth to carry them through the season successfully, that they may attain the great- est development of leaf and flower. If the soil is not sufficiently enriched the plant food will soon become exhausted, and the plants will show yellow, starved P AO grow all Nymphzas and Nelumbiums successfully they must be leaves and small flowers that will be no credit to the grower. Making the Compost—Fertilizers For best results, prepare the soil as carefully as you would for roses or any other greenhouse plants. The sod from an old pasture (or from any grass field with a good sod) and soil inclined to a heavy clay texture, is the best for water lilies. This should be taken to a depth of four inches, and carted to a place where it can be mixed with an equal amount of cow manure, the best that can be obtained. Do not use horse manure, which is said “to be just as good.” It is not as good, never was, and never will be, for this class of plants. Also be care- ful that no pig manure is mixed with the fertilizer, as this will burn the roots badly. Do not accept manure that has been lying outside, exposed to sun and rain for a year or more. Such material as a plant food is then little better than leaf mold. Get good, strong, fresh manure, with as little straw in it as possible. Make a layer of soil about six inches in depth, then add a layer of manure of the same depth, and so continue until the pile has reached a height of about four feet, and of whatever length and width are required to furnish the soil necessary to put into the pond. The soil pile should then be covered with boards, or other material, so as to shed rain and ward off the sun’s rays. After the soil has been in this condition for some weeks (it is immaterial how many), it should be turned over and chopped, mixing the soil and manure thoroughly, afterward throwing it into a pile similar to the first, and covering it in the same way. This process [42] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING should be repeated three times; the soil will then be ready to place in the boxes, or on the bottom of the pond. The soil can be cut and composted in the Fall, or in early Spring; it makes very little difference when the work is done, only see to it that the soil is well mixed. In preparing soil for this class of plants, as well as for all others, it should not be handled when wet; for in this state the soil will get hard and lumpy, pre- venting its thorough incorporation with the manure. If cow manure cannot be secured, sheep manure will prove an excellent substitute; but being a much stronger plant food, not more than one part sheep manure to eight parts of soil must be used. When sheep manure is employed, it should not be mixed with the soil until the last turning of the pile. All soils will be benefited by the addi- tion of some ground bone meal, in small quantities; but it should be “ground bone,” not cut with sulphuric acid, which is very injurious to plant growth. Use one-half pound of bone meal to one cubic foot or 13% pounds toa yard (27 cubic feet) of soil. The bone meal should be incorporated with the soil at its last turning. The same amount of wood ashes should be added to the soil when it is put into the boxes, or on the pond bottom. A word of caution as to the use of bone meal and wood ashes may not be out of place here: These materials should be mixed with the soil as directed, and should not come in contact with each other by applying them simultaneously. If this is done, the potash of the wood ashes will free the ammonia contained in the bone meal, which will evaporate and be lost. The bone meal should always be mixed with the soil a few weeks ahead of the application of the wood ashes. Soil for Seedlings The soil in which to raise water lily plants from seed should be a light sandy loam; or, if this is not available, then a good loam that has not been composted with manure, with the addition of one-third sand, or enough to give the soil the desired open texture. The whole should be passed through a quarter-inch screen. No manure must be used in the soil in which the seed is sown. Man- ure generally causes the soil to ferment, killing many of the young plants. It should only be used in the soil when the plantlets are ready to be potted off sep- arately into small two-inch pots; then the addition of well-decayed manure will be beneficial and hasten the growth. When the plants are ready for a larger pot, the soil composted for the larger plants will answer, simply passing it through a half-inch screen. [43] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING CHAPTER V PLANTING AND WINTERING Planting in Soil on Bottom of Pond P \HIS method of planting should be adopted only in large ponds where it will be difficult or impossible to draw off the water. The roots of the lilies, once planted where they have unrestricted room, will very soon spread over the whole pond and intermingle in such a way that the weaker growing kinds will be destroyed by the more robust ones. In planting roots in large, natural ponds, the roots should be pressed down into the soft mud, two or three inches deep, and held in place by stones until the plants get well rooted. If this be not done, the roots may be disturbed and rise to the surface. The majority of the hardy water lilies increase very rapidly from the roots, therefore should have plenty of room between the plants, es- pecially if in a large pond. The stronger growing varieties, such as all the Nymphza odorata section (with the exception of Nymphza odorata minor), Nymphzea Marliacea rosea, Nymphza Marliacea carnea, Nymphza Marliacea al- bida, Nymphza Marliacea chromatella, Nymphza alba, Nymphza alba candidis- sima, Nymphza Gladstoniana, with the reniformis (tuberosa) varieties, should be planted not less than six feet apart, and in the deeper water of the pond. None of the reniformis section should be planted on the bottom of the pond, unless the roots can be confined in an enclosure, formed either of brick or boards, set on edge in the shape of a box. [44] pee THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING The medium varieties, such as Nymphza Robinsoni, Nymphza James Brydon, Nympheza gloriosa, and Nymphzea lucida, can be planted four feet apart, and in water of a depth of eighteen inches. The weaker growing varieties, such as Nymphza helvola, Nymphza pyg- mea, Nymphza Laydekeri rosea, Nymphaea Laydekeri purpurata, Nymphza Andreana, Nymphza Seignoureti, Nympheza Marliacea flammea, Nymphza Mar- liacea rubra punctata, Nymphea Arethusa, Nymphea aurora, Nymphza fulva, Nymphza Marliacea lilacea, should be planted close to the edge of the pond in water from twelve to eighteen inches in depth, and from two to three feet between the plants. The leaf surface of the hardy water lilies varies with the strength and vigor of the plant. The stronger sorts named above will cover a circle of from six to eight feet in diameter, the medium growers from four to six feet; while the smaller kinds will cover a space of from two to four feet. The planting of hardy water lilies can be done at any time from the start of growth in Spring, generally about April first, up to the last week of August. While plants set out before or after these dates may do all right, there is a certain amount of danger of losing the roots by a late Spring or an early cold Fall, re- tarding the growth. The tender or tropical water lilies should not be planted until settled warm weather arrives, or until the temperature of the water reaches nearly 70°. They should be set out from eight to ten feet apart. The tender night flowering water lilies are the strongest growers; the leaves of these will cover a circle of from twelve to fifteen feet diameter. The tender day flowering lilies are not quite so vigorous, but will cover a space of from eight to twelve feet. The leaf surface of all water lilies, however, is governed by the amount of soil and plant food available, that of the very strongest varieties not occupying a space of six feet in diameter unless food and heat conditions are favorable. The tropical lilies will have been in pots for a few weeks, and will have several leaves when they are re- ceived from the growers. They should be planted carefully without damaging the ball. If the water is deeper than that in which the plants have been growing, the leaves, at planting, will be entirely submerged. This will have no damaging effect, as generally within a few hours the leaves will be floating on the surface. It is not well to plant any of the lilies in water more than three feet in depth (that is, with that amount of water above the roots) and in that depth only the very strongest growers should be placed. The tender lilies should be planted in the [45] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING pond, where they will have the benefit of the direct sunlight all day long, if pos- sible. Planting in Soil in Boxes or Tubs This is by all means the best method of growing water lilies, as then they are confined to the space allowed to each one, and the caretaker can walk among the boxes without danger of breaking the plants or stirring up the mud on the bottom of the pond. The size of the boxes, placed four feet apart, should be from two by two feet by one foot deep for the smaller Nymphzeas, such as Nym- phea pygmea, Nymphea pygmea helvola, Nymphza Laydekeri rosea, Nym- phza Laydekeri purpurea, Nymphea Laydekeri lucida, Nymphawa Andreana, Nymphea fulva, Nymphzea Arethusa, Nymphza aurora, Nymphza Seignoureti, Nymphza Wm. Falconer, Nymphza Marliacea rubra punctata, Nymphea Mar- liacea ignea, Nymphza Marliacea flammea, and Nymphza James Brydon; and for the tender ones, Nymphza Capensis, Nymphzea coerulea, Nymphza Zanzibar- ensis and its varieties. Up to three by three feet by one foot for the larger growers like Gladstoniana, Marliacea rosea, etc. These boxes should be six feet apart from center to center. For the tropical lilies, such as Nymphza O’Marana, Nymphza dentata, Nymphza Devoniensis, boxes four by four feet by one foot will be none too large, and they should be eight to ten feet apart from center to center. If oil barrels are available they can be sawn in two, and will answer very well in place of boxes. These barrels should be burned lightly to remove any oil or other deleterious matter remaining of their former contents; they can then be filled with the soil, and carried to their places in the pond. The lily roots should be planted from two to three inches deep, and the soil covered with one inch of coarse sand or gravel to keep down the manure, and prevent the fish digging in the boxes. When all the lilies have been planted the water can be turned into the pond, and allowed to cover the crowns to the depth of four inches. This quantity of water will be sufficient until the plants begin to grow, when more can be added until the pond is full, care being taken that the plants do not receive a check from too much cold water being admitted at one time. It is better to supply the water in this manner than to fill the pond as soon as planting is done, as, if the latter plan be adopted, there is always danger of losing plants, especially newly divided roots. [46] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING The hardy lilies, once planted in boxes, need not be disturbed; all that is re- quired the following Spring being to remove the sand, or gravel, and fork in a good top-dressing of cow manure, replacing the sand. The year following the boxes should be emptied and refilled with fresh soil and the roots of the lilies divided and planted as before. Cultural Directions for Aquatics After the lilies have been planted, their wants are few. All decaying leaves and flowers should be removed as soon as they begin to look unsightly. If scum should gather on the surface of the water, wash it toward the overflow pipe with the hose, when it can be easily got rid of. Green scum will form whenever new soil and manure have been added to the pond, the still, warm water having a tendency to promote the growth of this particular alge. Should the scum appear in such quantities as to make the pond unsightly, allow a stream of water to flow through the pond for several days, which will soon abate the trouble. Keep the pond as nearly full of water as possible. If the water is allowed to get low, and a large quantity of colder water admitted the temperature in the pond will be lowered in proportion to the additional volume of water supplied. If only hardy lilies are grown in the pond this will make little difference, but trop- ical lilies thrive best in a temperature as near 80° as possible; therefore, where both hardy and tender lilies are grown in the same pond the temperature of the water should be maintained at that degree, or as near to it as can be. Keep a sharp lookout for insects and other enemies, never affording them an opportunity to spread before applying proper remedies described in another chapter. Wrintering Tubers and Rhizomes After a good sharp frost, the tender lilies should be removed from the pond, and such as are required for Winter flowers in the greenhouse tank, or for pro- pagation, should be potted and placed in the tank. The leaves should be removed from the others and the tubers placed under the greenhouse bench, or in some other place where they can be kept cool without danger of being frozen, and away from mice and rats. After a few weeks these roots should be examined, and all the young tubers removed. These look very much like hickory nuts and will be found growing around the old tuber. They can be kept all Winter in pots, between layers of damp sand, at a temperature of from 50° to 60° until it is time to start them in the Spring. The old tubers of Nymphza Lotus and Nymphza [47] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING rubra varieties are of no further use, as they begin to decay as soon as lifted from the pond and should be thrown away. All the Zanzibarensis, gracilis, Capensis, and ccerulea sections should be potted up and placed in water at a temperature as near to 50° as possible. This temperature will keep them in a semi-dormant condition until they are wanted in the Spring. If there is no greenhouse tank available in which to place the tubers they can be removed and stored in sand, as described above. The roots, or rhizomes, of the hardy lilies need not be removed from the pond if a sufficient depth of water can be maintained above the crowns so that the roots will not be actually frozen. This will have to be determined by per- sonal observation of the thickness of ice formed during the Winter. If there is danger of frost reaching the roots a quantity of tree leaves spread over the crowns, kept in place by a sprinkling of sand, or soil, over them, will protect the roots from frost without removal from the pond. If the lilies have been grown in boxes, or tubs, these can be carried into the cellar, or cool greenhouse, and placed under the bench. Whichever method is adopted care must be taken that the soil does not become dry, but is kept in a moist condition. This is essential to carry the roots successfully through the Winter. If the roots become dry, they will shrivel; dry rot will result, which soon destroys them. More roots of hardy lilies are lost every Winter through being kept too dry than by being frozen. Just how much frost the roots will withstand has not been determined. It may be said that all lilies in the tuberosa, odorata and alba sections will withstand several degrees of frost, which would prove fatal to the tetragona (pygmza) section and nearly all of its hybrids. The same is true of many of Marliac’s hybrids. In cement basins, where there is danger of the walls being cracked by frost, it is well to draw off all the water, and either remove the boxes to the cellar or greenhouse, or fill the basin with tree leaves, placing evergreen branches on top of these. If this method of protection is adopted, some means must be taken to keep rats and mice from the basin, for if allowed access to the lily roots these vermin will soon destroy them, being very partial to the Nymphza roots during the Winter months when other food is scarce. [48] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING CHAPTER VI HARDY WATER LILIES TT HE hardy water lilies begin to flower very early in the season. In sheltered ponds in the vicinity of New York and Phila- delphia the first week of May will see several of them in bloom; and from that time well into Septem- ber flowers of hardy water lilies can be picked. The roots of the hardy lilies will commence to flower within a few weeks after planting and keep on blooming throughout. the season, so that one has not to wait a whole year for the plants to become estab- lished. The hardy lilies give us a great range and varia- tion in the form of the petals as well as in the color of the blooms. Some of the flowers rise above the water on stems of from six to nine inches; others float on the surface, presenting an endless var- iety in leaf and flower. The best of the hardy lilies spring from the American species, Nymphzea odorata, Nymphza reniformis (tuberosa) and the Mexican variety, Nymphza Mexicana. These, with the European species, Nym- phaea alba and Nymphza alba rubra, and the Chinese Nymphea tetra- gona (pygmea) have all been used by the hybridist to give us the many beautiful forms we now possess. Nymphzea odorata, the white fragrant pond lily of the Northeastern States, is still a desirable one, and should be grown by every person who cultivates water lilies. It delights in deep rich soil, and should be grown with its roots unhampered by box or partition. The flower is white, in size from three to five inches across, with golden yellow stamens; the sepals and tips of the petals are very often tinted pink. The flowers are very fragrant. The leaves are dark green on the upper side while the under side is a reddish green. A large number of hybrids and chance seedlings from Nymphzea odorata The best of these are Nymphza odorata Luciana, a [49] are now in cultivation. THE BOOK OF WATER ' GARDENING variety of great beauty and vigorous growth; the flowers measure from three to six inches across, and are of a beautiful rosy-pink color. In Nymphza odorata Caroliniana we have a natural hybrid and a very beautiful one. The flowers are of a delicate rose-flesh color, while the stamens are clear yellow. The plant is of strong growth, with large leaves which often measure twelve inches in diameter. Nympheea odorata exquisita produces flowers of a very deep intense rose- NYMPHAEA ODORATA W. B. SHAW carmine color. Unfortunately, this lily is becoming scarce, and it is now difficult to obtain the true variety. * Nymphzea odorata gigantea, from the Southern United States, gives large, pure white flowers from four to seven inches across. The leaves are large, deep [50] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING green, with the under side generally tinted purplish at the margin; very free flowering. ‘Nymphzea odorata minor produces small, fragrant white flowers, from two to three inches across. This lily is much used for growing in tubs and for plant- ing at the edges of ponds. In Nymphza odorata rosea we have the far-famed Cape Cod pink water lily. The flowers, about four inches in diameter, are of a beautiful rose pink color at the tips of the petals, deepening to intense pink at the center of the flower. The stamens are pure yellow. The flowers of this Nymphea are very fragrant; the leaves are dark reddish green on both sides. Nymphza odorata sulphurea is a hybrid between Nymphzea odorata and Nymphea Mexicana. The flowers measure from four to five inches across, are of a deep sulphur yellow color, rising above the water to a height of from three to six inches. The leaves are blotched with brown spots and float on the surface of the pond. A large flowering variety of the preceding is Nymphza odorata sulphurea grandiflora. This lily is larger in flower and leaf, otherwise it is identical with Nymphza odorata sulphurea. Nymphea odorata W. B. Shaw is a seedling from the beautiful Nymphza odorata Caroliniana. The plant flowers as freely as that well known variety. The color of the flower is much deeper and brighter than that of the parent; it is a very desirable lily. Nymphezea odorata Jessieana gives flowers of large size and fine form, of a beautiful even pink color. The plant is free in flower and growth. Nymphza Mary exquisita is a fine sweet scented sort, of large size, and beautiful pink color, very free in flower and growth. It belongs to the odorata section and is quite a desirable variety. The well known Nympheza tuberosa (reniformis) is our native species from the West and Northwestern States. It has deep green leaves some of which stand out of the water to a height of twelve inches when crowded. It is one of the strongest growing lilies, and should not be planted unless the roots can be confined; even then it will soon spread all over the pond by means of its seed. It throws pure white flowers, from four to nine inches in diameter, with broad petals. The plant is only moderately free flowering, and not so desirable for cultivation as some of the others. Nymphea tuberosa rosea is not quite so vigorous in growth as its parent, but [51] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING it produces more flowers the color of which is a light shade of flesh pink. They rise above the water from two to three inches. Nymphza tuberosa Richardsoni is one of the finest of the hardy lilies, with pure white flowers, very double, and of large size, from six to eight inches across. NYMPHAEA ODORATA MARY EXQUISITA The plant has the vigorous growth of the type. While it is one of the hardy lilies indispensable in every collection, it gives very few flowers for the amount of space it occupies. Nymphza tuberosa rubra is a new hybrid of beautiful rosy-red color with red stamens; the flowers are from five to seven inches across, with the delicate perfume of the odorata section. The plant is of strong vigorous growth. This is quite a desirable variety, but not very free flowering. [52] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING Nymphezea alba is the well known white lily from Europe. The flowers float on the water, and measure from four to six inches across. The plant blooms very freely and is of quick, strong growth. Nympheea alba candidissima is a large, free flowering white variety of strong vigorous growth. The flowers are much larger than those of Nympheea alba. The leaves are large and deep green. The plant blooms continuously throughout the season. ROHS NYMPHAEA ALBA In Nymphzea Marliacea albida we have a pure white flower, of large size with yellow stamens and quite fragrant. The sepals are tinted pink. The plant is of free growth, and blooms continuously the whole season. The leaves are large, deep green above, the underside being deep red in the young stage. This is one of the best white water lilies in cultivation for all purposes. Nymphzea Marliacea rosea is still one of the best of the deep pink hardy lilies, and a fitting companion to the preceding. The flowers are of large size, deep rose pink in color. The plant is very free flowering, and of strong, vigorous [53] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING growth, with large leaves which are purplish red in the young state changing to deep green. This is one of the choicest water lilies. In Nymphza Marliacea carnea we have a lily similar to the last named in flower, leaf and growth of plant. The color is a soft flesh pink, deeper toward the NYMPHAEA MARLIACEA ALBIDA center of the flower. The bloom exhales a sweet vanilla fragrance. The plant is very free flowering. Nymphza Marliacea chromatella has charming canary yellow flowers, from four to six inches in diameter, with bright yellow stamens. The leaves are beau- tifully mottled with brown. The plant flowers freely, and is of easy, quick growth, [54] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING When it has remained undisturbed for some years the leaves become crowded and rise above the water at the center of the plant to a height of twelve inches, thus hiding a large number of the flowers. To avoid this the plant should be di- vided every two years. This is, at the present writing, the best yellow hardy water lily in cultivation for all purposes. In Nymphza Wm. Doogue we have a fine lily, of delicate coloring. The flowers are large, of a soft shell pink color, with pink sepals, which are very wide 0 + ibe NYMPHAEA MARLIACEA CHROMATELLA and slightly incurving, giving a beautiful cup-shaped bloom. The plant flowers freely the whole season. Nympheea Gladstoniana is a fine lily of beautiful form and strong robust growth. It requires plenty of space for its best development at both root and top. The flowers are of the purest white, cup-shaped, with golden yellow stamens and [55] THE BOOK OF ——— WATER GARDENING very large. The plant blooms freely. This variety shows signs of tuberosa parentage in its leaves and growth. The leaves are dark green, the leaf stalk being striped brown as in Nympheea tuberosa. The plant is also inclined to push the leaves above the water. With Nymphza Laydekeri rosea we come to a distinct class of hybrids, raised by M. Latour-Marliac, of Temple-sur-Lot, France, who has given us many beauti- ful and interesting hybrid water lilies. This lily is of the form of Nymphea pygmzea (tetragona) which it resembles in many ways, but not in the color and size of the flowers. On first opening the bloom is of a soft shell pink, which as NYMPHAEA GLADSTONIANA NYMPHAEA TETRAGONA This illustration depicts the largest and the smallest of the hardy Water Lilies it gets older becomes deep carmine rose. The stamens are orange red. The plant is moderate in growth, but very free flowering, and is desirable for tubs and small pools, or for planting at the edge of a pond or tank. Nymphea Laydekeri lilacea gives fragrant flowers, of a soft rose-lilac color shaded bright carmine, with yellow stamens. The leaves are bright glossy green beautifully blotched with brown. Nympheza Laydekeri purpurata produces flowers of a carmine rose color, [56] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING darker toward the center. The center petals and sepals are of a bright rose and the stamens orange red. The plant flowers freely and continuously the whole season. Nympheza Laydekeri fulgens throws flowers of a brilliant crimson magenta color, with garnet rose stamens. The blooms are nicely cup-shaped. Nymphea lucida has flowers of a rosy vermilion color, darker in the center, with orange stamens. The leaves are beautifully blotched with reddish brown. The plant is very free in flower and growth. Nymphza fulva gives flowers of a bright yellow color, with a red overlay, the general color being a bright carmine purple. Nymphaea odorata Luciana Nymphaea James Brydon HARDY WATER LILIES Nymphza Andreana produces flowers of a dark red color shaded with yellow. The leaves are blotched with chestnut brown. The plant blooms freely and is a very desirable variety. Nymphza aurora gives flowers of a soft rosy yellow when first opening, changing to deep red as the flower gets older. Nymphea Seignoureti has a medium sized flower, pale yellow in color shaded with pink and carmine, with orange yellow stamens. The blooms rise above the water to a height of six inches. The leaves are beautifully spotted with brown. This variety is free in flower. [57] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING Nymphza Arethusa gives a bright crimson pink flower, of large size. The plant flowers very freely. In Nymphza James Brydon we have a very fine hardy lily, one of the freest in flower and growth, and in every particular one of the most desirable of its class. The flowers measure from five to six inches across; the petals are broad, concave and incurving, giving a flower of a fine cup-shape. The color is a rich rosy crimson, while on the reverse of the petals is a silvery sheen. This variety is well adapted either for growing in tubs, boxes, or planted out in the pond. Nymphea Wm. Falconer is the darkest colored of all the hardy water lilies in cultivation. The flowers measure from six to seven inches across, are of a bright garnet ruby color, with yellow stamens. The leaves are dark red when first unfolding, changing to deep green with red veins as the leaf reaches maturity. This variety is shy in flowering, otherwise it is excellent. Nymphea gloriosa is a magnificent variety with flowers from four to six inches across of beautiful form, which float on the water. They are of a deep carmine rose color, becoming deep red with age. The plant is very free in flower, blooming continuously throughout the season. This lily is the best of this class for all purposes. Nymphza Robinsoni gives a fine flower of a unique coloring; the ground color is yellow with an overlay of purplish red; the general tone being a dark orange red. The plant is very free in flower and growth, with dark green leaves spotted with brown above and dark red on the underside. This is one of the best, and should be grown by all who have a collection of hardy water lilies. Nymphza Marliacea ignea produces flowers from four to five inches across of a deep carmine color with cardinal stamens. The leaves are of a rich bronze when young, changing with age to deep green with brown blotches. Nymphza Marliacea flammea has large flowers of amaranth red shaded with white. The stamens are deep orange. The leaves are green much blotched with chestnut brown. Nympheza flava is a pale yellow water lily from Florida. The flowers measure from three to four inches across, rising out of the water from three to six inches. The leaves are dark green, blotched with brown. Nymphza Mexicana gives a bright canary yellow flower from four to five inches across, with golden yellow stamens. The leaves are small, much spotted with brown on the surface, the underside dark crimson brown with black spots. [58] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING This is a free and continuous bloomer and is perfectly hardy at Philadelphia. This lily and Nymphza flava may winter-kill farther North. Nymphza pygmeza (tetragona) is the smallest N ympheza in cultivation. The flowers are white with yellow stamens, from one and one-half to two and one-half inches across. They exhale a tea fragrance. The plant is free in flower. The leaves are dark green with occasional brown spots, the underside being reddish green. Nymphza pygmea helvola is the result of a cross between Nymphza pyg- mea and Nymphza Mexicana. It gives beautiful small yellow flowers which float on the surface of the water. They are about two inches in diameter. The leaves . NYMPHAEA GLORIOSA are small, beautifully mottled with brown spots, the under side of a reddish green color. The plant flowers freely and is well adapted for tub culture or for planting in shallow water at the edge of the pond. Nymphza alba rubra is the true Swedish red water lily; a beautiful flower where it thrives well but, unfortunately, the water in nearly all our ponds is too warm for it, hence it is very rare in America. It should be grown in a pond, or [59] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING pool, fed with cold spring water. The color of the flowers is rosy carmine with Orange stamens. Selections of the Best Hardy Water Lilies The best six hardy lilies for all purposes should include the following: Nymphzea Marliacea albida, white; Nymphza Marliacea rosea, pink; Nymphzea Marliacea chromatella, yellow; Nymphza gloriosa, red; Nymphaea odorata Caro- liniana, flesh pink; Nymphza Robinsoni, orange red. The best twelve should include the foregoing with the following additional six: Nymphaea Gladstoniana, white; Nymphza tuberosa rubra, rosy red; Nymphea gloriosa, carmine rose; Nymphea W. B. Shaw, bright rose pink; Nymphza alba candidissima, white; Nymphzea tuberosa Richardsoni, white. The best eighteen would include all of the above with the addition of Nymphza lucida, rosy vermilion; Nymphza odorata Luciana, rosy pink; Nymphza odorata, white; Nymphzea fulva, yellow shaded pink; Nymphaea Wm. Doogue, soft shell pink; Nymphzea odorata rosea, rose pink. The best of the small flowered forms are: Nymphea pygmza, white; Nymphea pygmza helvola, yellow; Nymphea Mexicana, yellow; Nymphza Laydekeri rosea, rose pink; Nymphea Seignoureti, yellow shaded pink and car- mine; Nymphza odorata minor, white. Dr. W. W. Hvans, Hamilton, Va. yet AN AMATEUR'S POOL [60] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING CHAPTER VII NELUMBIUMS Their Desirability in the Water Garden |} ELUMBIUMS, or Sacred Lotus as they are more com- monly named, form one of the most interesting classes of plants in the vegetable kingdom. They always command interest and admiration because of the plant’s sacred history and its beautiful, large flowers, which are borne on tall stems towering above the stately silvery bluish green leaves that often measure from two to two feet six inches in diameter and from three to eight feet in height. The grand foliage, aside from its magnificent flowers, well repays one for growing the Lotus. The Nelumbiums begin to bloom toward the end of June and continue to flower well into August. The flowers, like those of the Nymphzeas, open for three succes- sive days. The first day they never open full, but just enough to give one a glimpse of their beautiful stamens; the blooms quickly close, opening again the following morning, quite full, and remain open for several hours, then they close to open out quite flat the next day, when the petals begin to fall. The Nelumbiums are of quick growth, and if good sized roots are planted they will flower the first season, if the location is congenial. If, however, they do not bloom the first year, they are sure to do so the following one. The flowers are of beautiful colors, of large size, exhaling a delicate per- fume. The plants bloom freely when once established, and are perfectly hardy as long as the roots are below the frost line or are not exposed to actual freezing. The Nelumbium is a native of India, and was held sacred by the Hindus. It was early introduced into Egypt and the Egyptians made use of the seeds for food. The seeds were gathered, dried in the sun, and pounded into a fine meal which was then baked into bread. The American Indians utilize the seeds of the American yellow Lotus, Nelumbium luteum, in a similar manner. The Chinese and Japanese still eat the roots of the plant, which are offered for sale in their stores at the present time. The Nelumbium speciosum was introduced into America by Mr. E. D. Stur- tevant, of Bordentown, N. J., about 1876. A year or two later he set out one [61] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING plant in the open which grew so luxuriantly that in eight years a space of three- quarters of an acre was covered with a mass of flowers and foliage. From that time on the Nelumbium has grown in popular favor and has been planted ex- tensively in all parts of America. Many of the public parks and large private estates have a display of the Lotus every year. In Boxes Submerged in Pond But its planting is by no means restricted to large places only; many an amateur has his Lotus growing in a half barrel in his yard, and the Nelumbium can be cultivated very successfully in this way, if no better accommodation is available. To carry the roots of Nelumbiums safely through the Winter they should not be disturbed in the Fall or Winter months, and, if possible, should remain in the pond or basin throughout the Winter. If the roots are planted in the soil on the bottom of the pond, they will be deep down in the soil out of reach of the frost; if in boxes or half barrels in the pond, or basin, the roots will be down on the bottom of the receptacle and therefore out of reach of the frost, unless ice forms to the bottom of the pond. If this should happen the boxes should be removed to a cellar where there will be no danger of them being frozen. The Nelumbiums are strong, robust growing plants which require a large amount of space, soil and food for their proper development. The soil recom- mended for the Nymphzas will suit the requirements of Nelumbiums as well. To obtain the best results in growing Nelumbiums, they should have a basin to themselves where the roots will be allowed to run at will. Nelumbiums throw out roots a distance of fifteen feet in a single season, with leaves at every joint, generally about eighteen inches apart; therefore, in a very short time all other growths in a pond with them will be killed. If it is not practicable to devote a basin to the Lotus, then a part of the pond, or basin, should be boarded up in the form of a box, of whatever shape and size desired. This should be of sufficient depth to reach to the bottom of the pond. If the bottom is of concrete the box should rest on it allowing the edge of the box to extend above the level of the soil at least six inches. This will keep the floating runners within the confines of the box and prevent them getting over the edge. In making boxes for Nelum- biums the corners should be filled in with a piece of wood, so cut that it will turn the roots aside and prevent them being jammed into the corners where they would be injured. [62] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING The best time to plant the Lotus is in the Spring, when settled warm weather has arrived, which will be, generally, about the second week in May in the North- ern States. At this time the roots receive very little check by removal, as the warm temperature starts the plants into growth at once allowing little chance for the roots to decay, which they are likely to do if kept dormant for any length of time after being removed. If, for some unavoidable reason, planting has to be deferred to a later date, then plants that have been started into growth in pots or pans should be procured in preference to tubers. In planting the roots care should be taken not to break the growing point of the tuber, which would render the tuber useless, and it may then be thrown away, unless there is another growing point on the root, which is rarely the case. The roots should be planted in the soil in a horizontal position and covered with soil to a depth of six inches with a coating of two inches of gravel, or coarse sand, as recommended in the case of Nympheeas. ROOT OR RHIZOME OF NELUMBIUM Showing three growing points. In planting great care should be taken not to break the point or the plant will die [63] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING Grown in Boxes or Half Barrels Another method of growing the Lotus is to plant it in boxes or half barrels, and submerge them in the basin, treating them in the same way as recommended for the Nymphzeas. So handled the boxes can be moved around the basin at will and placed where the plants will provide the best effect; the roots are confined within the boxes and there is therefore little danger of them escaping. If planted in this manner boxes four feet by four feet by one foot will be found a good size for all the Lotus. An oil barrel sawn in two and burned out to get rid of the adhering oil will furnish a suitable receptacle for the growth of these plants; not being as large as the boxes previously described, these half barrels are more easily moved around the basin. The boxes, or half barrels, should be overhauled every two years. The receptacles should be filled with fresh soil as recommended for Nymphea culture, and three or four roots allowed for each box or barrel. In this way the plants will bloom the first year. The following Spring all the work re- quired will be to remove the top soil and afford a good rich top dressing of cow manure, with a little soil on top, finishing with a layer of sand or gravel. Grown m Tubs on the Lawn Nelumbiums are also grown extensively in tubs or half barrels placed on the lawn. The tub is filled with soil to within six inches of the top, the tuber planted, and the remaining space in the tub filled with water. All that is necessary after- ward is to replace the water lost by evaporation or seepage, and to see that the tub is emptied at least every two years and fresh soil added. It is also desirable to have one or two gold fish in each barrel to destroy the mosquito larve that would otherwise hatch there. In lieu of the fish a small quantity of kerosene oil, just sufficient to cover the water with a thin film, can be put into each barrel once a- week; this will kill all the larvee without injury to the plants. Nelumbium speciosum is the well known so-called Egyptian Lotus; it throws beautiful flowers about twelve inches across, of a deep rose color on opening the first day, becoming paler as the flower gets older, until the third day when the color is creamy white at the base and center of the petals, the edge tinted light rose pink. The plant has large leaves, deep green above, light silvery green on the reverse. It grows and flowers freely. In Nelumbium Pekinensis rubrum we have the best of the deep colored Nelumbiums. The growth of plant and leaves is magnificent, the flowers are very [64] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING large, of a bright rose carmine color, the petals somewhat reflexed as in Nelum- bium speciosum, which this plant resembles very much in habit. It flowers freely and is very desirable. NELUMBIUM PEKINENSIS RUBRUM The best of the deep colored Nelumbiums A double form of the preceding is Nelumbium Pekinensis rubrum flore pleno, resembling the parent in color of flowers and habit of plant, but differing from it in the number of petals. The flowers are very double, and are borne on strong stems well above the foliage. [65] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING Nelumbium roseum gives flowers of a deep rose pink color, free in growth and flower. Nelumbium roseum plenum is another double form with bright rose colored blooms; very free in growth and flower. NELUMBIUM ROSEUM PLENUM Nelumbium album grandiflorum, sometimes called Nelumbium album flori- bunda, gives a fine pure white flower of large size and delicate fragrance. The leaves are large and deep green in color. This is the best white Lotus for all purposes. _Nelumbium album striatum is a variety of the preceding, with all its good qualities. The flowers are fragrant, white, with the petals striped and tipped rosy carmine. The plant is of vigorous growth and free in flower. [66] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING Nelumbium kermesinum produces flowers of a bright pink color, lighter than those of Nelumbium Pekinensis rubrum; is free in flower and of easy cultivation. Nelumbium Shiroman is a magnificent variety, giving large double flowers; on first opening they are cream colored with a few of the petals tinted a light NELUMBIUM PEKINENSIS RUBRUM FLORE PLENO green; as the flower gets older the color fades to pure white. This is a strong, robust plant, flowering as freely as N elumbium speciosum. The blooms last well in the cut state. [67] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING Nelumbium osiris is a beautiful cup-shaped blossom of deep rose color, strong in growth and free in flower. . Nelumbium pygmeza alba is a dwarf, miniature, white flowered variety, truly a pygmea in all its parts. The leaves never grow more than eighteen inches above the water. It is very useful for tub cultivation, or for planting at the edge of the pond, where a dwarf subject is desired. NELUMBIUM SHIROMAN A magnificent variety, giving large, double flowers Nelumbium luteum, the native American Lotus, is a beautiful yellow flowered aquatic, found growing wild in the Eastern and Central States of America. It is perfectly hardy, of easy culture, succeeding best where planted out in soil on the bottom of the pond. [68] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING CHAPTER VIII HEATING THE TROPICAL LILY BASIN AVING located a basin on the lawn, near the dwelling house, it can be heated from the boiler used in the dwelling during the Winter months, thus enabling one to grow the tropical lilies in the Northern States. All that is necessary is to place valves on the flow and return pipes near the boiler, so that the circulation can be regulated at will both as re- gards the house and the lily basin. A flow pipe can be taken from the boiler, covered with asbestos, and run through a terra cotta pipe to the basin, which it should enter about six inches below the water level. The return pipe should be taken through the wall of the basin near the bottom and back to the boiler in the same manner, and in the same trench as the flow pipe. This will insure a free circulation of the water. : There are two methods of heating a lily basin with hot water—one by run- ning pipes all around the basin, thus heating the water by contact with the pipes ; the other, to use the basin as a large expansion tank, the flow pipe entering the basin a few inches below the water level, and the return pipe running from the side opposite to that in which the flow enters, so as to insure a proper circulation and mixing of the water. The first mentioned method is the better of the two, but the more expensive, owing to the amount of pipe required. This will be described first: If it is de- cided to use the boiler located in the cellar of the dwelling house for heating the pond, the flow pipe, if possible, should be graded so that the highest point will be at the boiler and a gradual fall secured all the way to the basin. Near the boiler, at the highest point, means should be taken to carry off all air that may accumulate there. This can be done by a pipe running to the expansion tank connected with the system, or a pet-cock can be used, which will have to be opened by hand to allow the air to escape, failing which circulation will be stopped. The flow pipes [69] THE BOOK OF WATER GARDENING should enter the basin a few inches below the water level, at which point a tee can be placed from which branches can be run around the sides of the basin, grading them so that they will have a fall to the far end (12 inches in 100 feet will be ample), whence they can be returned, grading them with a fall to the boiler, either immediately underneath or a few feet from the flow, which will give a more uni- form temperature and amore even distribution of the heat. The size of the pipe used will depend on the size of the basin. For very large basins a flow pipe of three or four inches will be necessary, which can be run to the basin, and then sev- ae ie eee PLANT BONES Ae pee alee JOP VIEW OF LOWER DRAWING WATER. LEVEL GROUND LEVEL = LEGIT CORRECTLY LAID DOWN HILL SXSTEM FoR Ho WATER HEATING SDE VIEW A SUGGESTION FOR A HEATED POOL The above diagrams show the method of laying the pipes and arrangement for the boiler connection. The upper diagram also shows the position of the boxes in which the Water Lilies are to be grown eral branches of two-inch pipe run through the water.