Sey phe peed tes steers OS) bebe be Teese trent reo thos PP eet Rite Pariah pviey ahead aires LOGE RAT LSA TY RUE lata We ee -T Tt ee ee RR a ek nee La ear rer re pec ae re ae Pe FP PLL OT a ee EY Ve gore ne From the Personal Reference Library of PAUL IVES ALBERT R. MANN LIBRARY New YorRK STATE COLLEGES OF AGRICULTURE AND HomME ECONOMICS AT CORNELL UNIVERSITY THE GIFT OF PAUL POMEROY IVES 2D IN MEMORY OF PAUL POMEROY IVES Date Due Library Bureau Cat. No. 1137 Cocker’s Manual, DEVOTED TO THE GAME FOw x.L,, THEIR ORIGIN AND BREEDING RULES FOR FEEDING, HEELING, HANDLING, Etc, Description of the Different Breeds, DISEASES AND THEIR TREATMENT. SECOND EDITION (Revised), rE". EL. GRAY. PUBLISHED AND SOLD BY THE AUTHOR, 1878. BATTLE CREEK, MICHIGAN; FROM THE J pacar PRINTING HOUSE, Entered, according to Act of Cengress, in the year 1878, by F.H. GRAY, in the office of the Librarian, at Washington. CONTENTS. Origin of the Game,.... The Game Fow),.... Breeding Ganies,... Selection of Breeders,. ‘ire of Breeders.,.... Breeding to Feather,.. 20 Breeding In-and-In,.. 23 Crossing of the Game,. 25 Breeding for the Pit,.. 28 Influence of the Sire,.. 31 Setting Hens,..... 37 Young Chicks... . 40 Rules for Feeding,. 42 Stamper’s Rules,. 45 General Remarks,. 49 Trimming Fowls for the Pit, 5k Rules for Heeling.,....... 51 Description of Gafts,.. 52 Regulation Spur,.. 52 Singleton Spur,... 53 Cincinnati Heel,. 538 Thimble Heel,. 54 Full Drop Sock 54 Half Drop Socket, 55 Remarks on the 55 Rules of the Pi 57 New York Rules, 57 Philadelphia Rules,. 59 Western Rules,...... ove 63 Southern Rules,.... sures OL English Rules, as sa a 66 English Notes on Cocks andl CuCKers,...cccsscscccsersecesescescenss sscceenerenenesene ces 60 A Plea for the Pit, 89 Description of Games,. ; 91 Karl Derbys,.......... 91 Seftons,.........06 93 Ivish Dare-Devels,. 93. Heathwoods,. O4 Red Horse,. OL Counterfeits, . at Red Quills... 95 Claibornes,.... 05 The Tartar Fowl, 96 Jack McClelans,. 96 Dusty Millers,.. sbuvesniea asgect ‘tis cee OF The EKslin Fowl,. ei z i ste UE TTISH SlASHOCLS)..-cccacearesedseeceseisscacsivns pose sees: secnitd ogeannssssdennvantenves aa OF Stonefence Fowl....... 98 Newbold Reds..... 255 asi cote 98 Irish Muffs,... 98 Baltimore Tassels,.... a ae 99 Rattlers,...... Sess nea ssae8s Cou avane inca oveureeasenseeuecs ts sansa mink yseev EY a weti ae AMET aR edd BItipeSeets 99 Red Rippers,.... ea ws 99 Dominic Games,. - 100 Irish Piles,.......4. + 100 Brass Back Games, » 101 Henny Games,....... - 101 Breeding Coops and Pens 10L Di one 103 Roup, 103 Pip, or Gapes,... os 104 Indigestion, 104 MMOUIti ng, ..ccoccscccccccscssccvecrsecccscesccoessssccsseaseseuesenacscnssvsecssocsasacsacecauenascensenedse 105 Chicken Pox 105 Running at the Nose, or Catarrh, severe 106 CONTENTS, Diarrhooa, OF DySentery ,rrorrrsversscssrserscccsrssssssssereeseesseesercessertsesrens Costiveness, Limed Leg, Rheumatism, ........... Rattles, or Asthma... Fever,....... eecealasee Loss of Feathers, Eating their Feathers,....scccccee Inflammation, or Swelling of the Eyes, Melancholy and Moping,.. APOPlEXY,..secrceeeseeee TIS, ..00c0reeseeseecessee sees Care of Wounded Fowl.,.. The Standard of Excellence, ‘ Black-Breasted Red GaMeS....c..cccereeees Brown-Red Games, “ Ginger-Red GAIN 68 ses ccctasivosecmnnirss muattaceaionenincare Yellow Duckwing Games, Silver Duckwing Games. Red Pile Games......... White Pile Games, White Games,... Black Games, Blue Games,. Gray Games... Spangled,.......... Duckwing Games... Dominic Games,..... . : Fg 21 Brown- Red Games, . Yellow Duckwing ‘Games, Black-Red Tartar Games, Regulation Spur, - Singleton Spur,... Cincinnati Hee Thimble Heel...... Full Drop Socket Half Drop Socket Heel,.. Red Pile Games, cane 61 Brown-Red Games... ws 67 Black-Breasted Red White Georgian Games, Earl Derby Game Breeding Coop, Tartar Game Cock. Pit Fowl..... ADVERTISEMENTS, H. H. Stoddard, Hartford, Conn..,....... Wm. J, Healey, Mineral Point, Wis. Harry K. Welsh, Y York, Penn..,.......... Louis Sendker, Parker City, Penn L. E. Sinsabaugh, Syracuse, Nebraska... Cc. J. Ward, Chica; 0}, Uligssessarssseneevnce H. H. Stoddard, artford, Conn... F. H. Gray, Battle Creek, Mich 9 Daniel Allen, Galt, Ontario, Canada, Joseph M. Wade, Springfield, SRE H. H, Stoddard, Hartford, Conn,,... PREF ACH. With respect to the present work, it has many advantages over that of the first addition, Everything has been treated in so plain a man- ner that all may understand it. The rules laid down by the best sportsmen have been carefully attended to. With the author’s prac- tical knowledge of the different subjects he has advanced, nothing but what he knows to be consistent, and the fancier will meet with more accurate ideas of the subject, while his practice will give him daily proofs of its utility. As such it is presented to the public, without a doubt but that it will meet with a candid and favorable reception. We feel obliged to acknowledge an indebtedness to those who have favored us in many particulars, and by their contributions have mate- rially lightened our labors, and those manifesting an interest in our welfare have our best wishes. In closing, it is but just to say, in our work we have been aided by many standard and reliable works on poultry, to all of which we have given due credit. d ar ) “j|___ ORIGIN OF THE GAME. __f | The origin of the Game Fowl is a point that would involve am im- mense amount of labor and considerable time without leading us to any practical conclusion, It has proved a most perplexing question notwithstanding naturalists, historians, and game fanciers have written much concerning it, and still no one theory has been accepted by all as correct in every particular. We find almost every known part of the globe has been honored with their origin. Many refer to India as the original country, and possibly aver from thence they were car- ried over the world. Others to the contrary, forcibly assert that England, or the Isle of Rhodes, or some other place were their orig- nal countries. In this way, perhaps, we could go on and give article upon article yet be no nearer their origin than we were at ‘first, and we do not intend to furnish many new ideas upon this subject as it would only be filling our work up with what many care so little about. In closing we simply say, by permission we have been allowed to publish extracts from a short letter written us some time since upon this subject, and we have no hesitation in saying the writer has written more concerning Game Fowls than any other person living, having traveled in all parts of the globe and seen every variety he speaks of in their natural state. We cannot do otherwise than take his ideas for granted, knowing full well that he is conversant with what he is writ- ing about: ‘‘As for all Game fowls coming from India, it is nonsense ; but one yellow and willow-legged sort come from that country. The white, brown, black carp and blue-legged are the old British sorts, but as the whole of their ancestors of both Britons and Saxons came from Persia in Asia originally, it is probable that all our white-skinned game fowls are of Persian origin, and that all the yellow-skinned sorts a é Io COCKER’S MANUAL. are of Indian origin, and also the gypsy-combed and dark-faced will be from there too. There are five colors in India still: First, Black- breasted Reds, legs willow, eyes red and comb red. Second, Ginger Reds, legs yellow, eyes red and combs red. Third, Gingers, legs yel- low, eyes yellow and combs yellow. Fourth, Brown-reds, legs dark willow, dark eyes and dark faces. Fifth, Ginger-brown Reds, legs dark willow, dark eyes and dark faces. All of these colors are to be found, small and quite wild, and are all originals. All the others are made-up colors, except perhaps the Red Duns or Ginger Blues, which some say are original. Duck Wings and all grays are made-up colors, though many will say the contrary. White Piles and Blacks are the most artificial colors of all and took much trouble to make up.’’ THE GAME FOWL. For the present type of the Game Fowl we are without doubt in- debted to the contests that for centuries incited that strife among the breeders of it, which has in this way given so good results. The Eng- lish Game Fowl as now seen is unequaled in form and carriage and is everywhere regarded as the highest possible type of gallinaceous beau- ty. Just before the abolishing of cock-fighting in England by law, we find Newcastle, Cheltenham, Chester, Gloucester, Norwich, Lan- caster, Stamford and other smaller places were noted for their fighting strains of Games, and at one time the cockers of Newcastle challenged the world. This was just subsequent to one of their last meetings, at which over two hundred cocks were fought. Cock-fighting in Eng- land is greatly on the decline owing to stringent laws. We also have the same in this country, but from reading the reports of several mains the past few seasons we should judge it was more on the increase, as seldom before has such large sums been placed on each side or mains been more frequent. In consequence a demand has been ex- cited for a game fowl greater than ever before known, and not only is attention being paid them by fanciers and cockers alone, but other breeders of fancy poultry whose yards are now considered incomplete without one or more varieties. In this country, fanciers believe more in crossing, and for this reason many of our best games cannot be claimed as any particulur strain, but COCKER’S MANUAL. IL generally take the name of the breeder or some fancy name, given them by him for some known fighting quality, and among such per- sons are they to be found in the highest degree of perfection, and can be shown of various colors. Every country has its games, as we have stated, and just so long as they are grown so long will more or less of them be obliged to endure the severe tests well known to cockers in one or more hattles. We do not intend to treat at any length upon the subject of cock- fighting, as perhaps the views we might express would be unpopular with some and at the same time do us no real good. Every cocker will as readily bet on his own fowl as a lover of a good horse will upon his animal, All kinds of sport has its admirers, and each one will stand up for his just as strong as the other will cry it down, consequently we shall not point out the cruelty of it nor speak of any of the charges brought against it. Games compared with other fowl look small, but on handling it will be found they are larger than they look, and are more than the average size, but owing to their quarrelsome dispositions are a hard fowl to manage; still, they will often run peaceably together as soon as one becomes master. Game fowls often reach as high as eight pounds in weight, and yet the cock will appear as light and active as an ordinary fowl will of smaller size. A true game fowl should be of bold carriage, the eye large and bright, the beak well shaped and strongly made, the body should be broad between the shoulders, grad- ually tapering to the tail, the breast should be broad, full and straight, the thighs short and well turned, the legs stout, the foot flat and strong with a long claw and the spur rather low on the leg. For the game cock to show fight well he must be in the best of health, for though possessing superior qualities physical weakness and general de- bility will sometimes cause him to seek flight. Activity, determina- tion, willingness to encounter, force in fighting, etc., are the distin- guishing characteristics of the game. No other fowl possesses to so great an extent these peculiar qualities. Not only are they noted for their bold carriage but for their disposition to receive severe punish- ment in a most courageous manner. We find in the Journal of Horticulture the following article upon this subject, written by one of the oldest and most reliable breeders in England, which we consider worthy of notice: 12 COCKER’S MANUAL. “Game fowls have not gained their popularity as other breeds, by one class of ‘admirers only. Many breed them for table purposes, justly preferring their delicate white skin and flesh, round, plump ap- pearance, and rich nutritious game-like flavor, both of flesh and eggs,. to all other poultry. Others breed them for the beauty of their ele- gant muscular symmetry and brilliancy of feather ; whilst a few of the old school still breed them for those points so ominous of sudden death, and every Englishman admires their unrivaled courage. Now,. how far do exhibition birds supply either of these requirements? Cer- tainly not as a table fowl, as fully ninety per cent. of show birds have dark legs and skins, although the purestand best Game fowls ever seen in England, consequently in the world, have had white legs; and in shape a roasted or boiled exhibition Game fowl more nearly resembles a Heron in its narrow shape and length than a true Game fowl, whilst for tenderness and flavor of the two breeds, well, you can dine on one and try to on the other. “‘As for symmetry the true Game fowl was bred so as to have the greatest possible strength and activity, combined with the lightest weight possible to go to scale with. The show bird is bred with a beak and head as Jong and weak as a snipe, yet we are asked to be- lieve with all this want of leverage he can hold and tear like a hawk ; he is thin, long-necked, has long legs, and is stilty upright, conse- quently has not the least spring or force to fight if he wished—has no .forehand ; in fact, a cup-winner is out ef all proportion, for if a 5-Ib. cock has one quarter inch too much length of body, leg or head, he must necessarily be so. As to color, the original Black-breasted Dark Red has not been seen in a show pen since the first few shows at Bir- mingham, and is as different in color to our present Black-breasted Reds of the show pen as they are to Brown-breasted Reds, which are also a new-made color, being totally unknown to the old frequenters of the Royal cock pit. ‘As to their fighting it scarcely requires a word. They were never intended for it, and it would be a cruelty to put them to what they either will not or cannot do. Mr. Wright has seen both breeds, and ‘Duckwing’ has bred both, I have bred both, and used them suc- cessfully for each purpose, and I quite endorse ‘Black Red’s’ opinion. {do not write with the spleen of a disappointed exhibitor, as Iam sure I can compare results favorably with any exhibitor in England } i Hi Hp) lie v <7 | HY ” ae i Mis DUCKWING GAMES. COCKER’S MANUAL. 15 with the same number of entries, and I am not quite ignorant of the fighting bird, having fought my first main in public, with the parish constables keeping order in the pit, about the same time as ‘Duck- wing’ began breediug, and have seen a score or two of cocks judged by merits in private since he wrote his article in the Journal asking for the points of the Malay in our exhibition birds. I would ask where the whip-tail came from, carried as only a Malay and a craven does carry? What is the first thing a bad-bred one and a craven does, when intending to fly the pit? (I am sure ‘Duckwing’ knows, as I think we have had some conversation on this subject), and is it not to fold his flag and put it in true exhibition posture? whilst the up and spread tail belongs only to the true Game cock. ‘Duckwing’ must surely in varied experience have seen half-bred Malays awarded cups, and on the second and third days of the show seem so ashamed of their’ de- ception that they would neither crow nor fight. I knew a sporting American colonel to take thirteen cocks to America from our best shows, 2nd after journeying 3000 miles with them found all were dung- hills, except two low-priced despised yellow-legged ones. I have just received a letter from a breeder and shipper of Game fowls in America, asking me to try to get him something better than the trash exhibited in this and his own country. Our Journal stated that many of the birds at the last Birmingham show were as much Malays as game, and an old and able correspondent of this Journal, ‘Newmarket,’ wrote me to the same effect, and no one knows a Game cock in or out of con- dition better than he does. I recently wrote for a brood cock to a ‘gentleman who has long bred and shown as good Game fowls as any man in England, and he requested me to see a bird he was sending to a show in my district. It was awarded the cup, but I thought it the coarsest bird of the Malay type I had ever seen him exhibit, wrote him to that effect, and his reply informed me that he fully anticipated my verdict, saying that he had purchased this one not to please himself but the judges; and as this bird has taken as many, if not more cups than any other bird shown this season, it would seem he has been very successful in doing it. “As to length of head, I know an exhibitor who has a stag only three removes from a prize Malay hen, whose head for mere length would beat most prize-winning show birds; and of the many birds I have known so manufactured for the show pen, a judicious se- 16 COCKER’S MANUAL. lection has obviated all trouble in molding the head into the required shape. Not only does every poultry show contain these mongrels in abundance, our judges encourage them, and even the illustrations of our modern poultry books would pass muster for improved Malays, and are mere caricatures of real Game fowls, such as are seen in ‘Rural Sports,’ from a good painting by Marshall, of one of the most perfect cocks ever seen: It took centuries of careful breeding to gain that perfection, and the trial was often for a fortune, thousands depending on the prowess of a single bird. Now, we are told a few years’ breed- ing them to be shown a score together for a few shillings or a cup has improved them, and readers are asked to believe it. I shall give them Punch’s advice to those contemplating marriage and say, ‘Don’t.’ ’’— [CornisH DuckwInc. BREEDING GAMES. The breeding of Games is just as much a science as the breeding of other fancy poultry, and it is a mistaken idea of fanciers to think as they have purchased perhaps at a large expense a pair or trio of Games from some noted breeder’s yards that it is all that is required to pro- duce a number of fine fowl; but care, time, and a large amount of patience will also be needed. They can be just as easily raised as other breeds of fowls and at no more expense to the breeder, and as he grows in experience so much less will be the work, as each season will teach him something new. They being hardy can be confined in very small runs, and for this reason can be bred in small places as they have a strong constitution, We find them in their prime when two years old, but as a general thing the cock wears out faster than the hen, although the hens at an old age only lay about one clutch. We now have a cock in our possession which is over twelve years of age, and as far as we can notice appears as young as a two-year-old, and his stag’s comb as strong and vigorous as any we raise. But very few Game fowl ever live to this age, as owing to their quarrelsome dispo- sitions sooner or later they die by accident or some disease caused by fighting. COCKER’S MANUAL. 17 Stags bred to pullets will produce good chickens, but as a.general thing full grown or two-year-old birds bring the best. A writer in the Journal of Horticulture says, ‘‘In crossing colors in breeding the following cases—first, when there are more than six hens to each cock ; second, when the hens are dark with dark legs and the cock light ; third, when the hens are full grown and the cock not full grown ; also in breeding games from hens with a barn-door cock the the progeny will be gamer than if breeding from a game cock and barn-door hen. The fighting qualities are, however, inherited mare directly from the cock than from the hen. In breeding Game fowls together, which made the best breeders for the pit in general, more careful of their brood cocks than of their brood hens. In all animals of both sexes those taking the most after their sires are considered to be the strongest and most spirited. Asa rule, breeding from fowls not full grown is a great mistake, as even if they produce quicker birds (which some say, though contrary to my own experience), they at any rate produce weaker, smaller and softer birds both in bone and flesh.”’ It is a well known fact that every breeder has his own ideas and no amount of talking could induce him to change it. One of these is not dubbing his breeding cocks, as they select their finest stags and keep them undubbed, putting them on a walk alone with a few hens only. When our stock has been bred in-and-in too long they begin to be slower in their motions, the hens do not lay as well and also moult later each season and feather more slowly. In this case they should be crossed with a strong, healthy brood cock, as all birds from a first cross are more vigorous if the cross is good; and also best for the pit. Each succeeding cross grows less vigorous and spirited. By keeping two distinct breeds a first cross can always be had when wanted. It is said the first laying hens never breed the best birds, i. e., hens that lay in winter are not the best to breed from, having exhausted themselves before the proper season. ‘Breeders for the pit generally allow three hens to the stag, and five to the cock, but we are convinced from our own experience that the best stock can be bred from a single cock and two good hens; still it is often the case that two hens will not prove sufficient and others will have to be put in. But as a general thing we like to breed from two hens if possible. Successful breeders avoid breeding in-and-in, and it 18 COCKER’S MANUAL. is shown many good breeds have been ruined by so doing, although they were once very successful. To avoid this American breeders breed twice in and once out, while it is said the English breeder’s rule is once in and once out. Our advice is, if you have a good winning strain take good care of them and breed from them the best shape and most active and healthiest, and do not destroy their good properties by constantly crossing and changing them. SELECTION OF BREEDERS. As the selection and mating of our breeding stock is not attended without some difficulty much care and patience will be required to be successful. Fanciers who select their cocks from one yard and hens from another must not expect to raise fowls that are reliable, although their chicks will not be related. As the hens give us size and shape too much care cannot be taken in selecting them. Each fancier has his own ideas as to what his breeding stock should be, yet we often see some very poor fowls on such breeders’ yards. Some fanciers pre- fer small birds, others medium size, and again others extra large ones, and each one will show his own individual preference for one over the other. Perhaps there are some grounds on this point for question, but for us we have no hesitation in giving our judgment for the larger bird, as we can then get all the smaller ones we want without breeding especially for them, as we contend that a good large one is better than a good small one, and one of extra size with all the other good quali- ties should not be disposed of but be highly prized as one of our breeders. Another wrong is also done by some fanciers in letting their old and well tried stock run out and breeding some new breeds they know nothing of when, perhaps, they find they do not equal their old favorites and then lament for not breeding from them. They are too apt to be taken up with some new breed and each season try- ing something new, and for this reason the breeder should understand his stock thoroughly. It is a well known fact that good qualities in parents will become fixed in the offspring if care is shown in the se- lection of the breeders. The age of the breeding stock is an import- ant consideration. Some fanciers claim no hen should be selected as COCKER’S MANUAL. 1g a breeder until she is two years old, as pullets’ eggs have a tendency to produce weakly chickens, and also claim the same in breeding from too young a cock. We always have our breeding stock full grown if possible ; if not we prefer to breed cocks to pullets and hens to stags. If the fancier’s object is breeding to feather, great care should be taken in selecting his breeders or otherwise the object sought will not be obtained. If it is desired to preserve a particular color, the hen selected for the purpose should be the same in color as the cock but of different blood, that is to say, not closely or nearly related. Some claim the principle in breeding to be observed is, ‘‘like produces like,’’ but still this is not an unerring guide as we can breed from any stock of fowls, and not unfrequently an extra fine specimen will ap- pear, and by breeding such specimens or pairs we cannot obtain their like in all cases, at least a portion of their progeny will possess the quali- ties distinguishing the originals. If, however, we select the best pro- duced by such fowls as breeders and continue from season to season selecting the best samples we shall in time arrive at our desire and ob- tain a permanent improvement on the original stock. If size and strength are desired the selections should include large hens or pul- lets with good build, legs and general make. If intended for the pit special attention should be given to abtaining a breed of good size with large bone and muscle—the cock well set upon his legs, broad at the shoulders, wing strong and of good length and a tough wiry feather, one that continually urges the battle and gives his adversary no rest, and a stock whose gameness you have often seen tested. With such a cock placed with hens selected for the many fine points which they possess, being good layers and setters, the chickens will be noted for their courage and gameness. Some like a cock to be full of mo- tion while in hand and continually talking and chatting, with his legs drawn close up to his body. CARE OF BREEDERS. All fanciers must bear in mind that great care and attention must be paid to our breeding fowl during the breeding season. Particular attention should be given to our breeding cocks, as they must be in 20 COCKER'S MANUAL. the best of feather and health, as it is well known that breeding from diseased fowls result in chickens with weak and sickly constitutions, small in leg, bo1.e and muscle. We do not believe in too expensive coops for our breeding pens, but light and roomy, as we use ours only uring this season; but if intended for winter as well as summer use more expense will be added in making them. Care must be taken in feeding them and not supply too much food, as the birds may become fat and thus defeat our object. It is not well to keep them confined to one kind of food but a change should be given them often; fresh water must be supplied them daily, and if extremely warm weather at least twice each day. If a cock takes a dislike to a hen she should be removed at once as it would be useless to endeavor to breed from her and would result in her death, or at least herinjury. The eggs should be collected regularly each day, marking the name of breed and day on each. If this plan be adopted great disappointment will be prevented in the hatching of the eggs. BREEDING TO FEATHER. Since our Poultry Standard has come into existence and our poultry shows more numerous we find much attention being paid to breeding games to feather, caring more for exhibition birds than our old pit fowl which, owing to the stringent laws now in force has done much to put them out of use. Yet, notwithstanding this fact, we find that many old cockers discard breeding to feather, caring more for the ac- tion and fighting qualities of the cock than for his appearance. Among the cockers this class are greatly in the majority. A fancier, however, whose object is to breed exhibition or prize birds gives close attention to breeding to feather, to do which successfully several things are necessary to be observed. Just as much science will be needed in breeding fowls to feather as for any other purpose, and in breeding for this point it is generally expected that we will produce fowls of the same feather, but experience shows all will not be the same, - and so it is with standard birds. Many chapters have been written in which are given various rules and instructions for breeding to feather if this or that advice is followed. But there are many important points COCKER’S MANUAL. 23 besides these which must be considered as well as plumage, although it is one of the main objects in judiciously mating for breeding to feather, yet we have other well known points that we must not over- look but have an eye on form, size, vigor and action, as while we are breeding to feather none of these other qualities should be lost sight of. Select only your best birds, mate them carefully for color, avoid- ing as much as possible breecling brothers and sisters together, keeping our selected stock closely by themselves. By carefully following the course suggested you will succeed in getting a larger number of chick- ens of the right color and the more valuable for breeders. BREEDING IN-AND-IN. It has long been a disputed point whether the system of breeding in-and-in or the opposite one of crossing had the greatest tendency te maintain or impvove the quality of the breed. Both systems we find here have able and earnest advocates, each confident of being in the right. Asa genera] thing in-and-ia breeding is not looked upon in this country with as much favor as in England, still we now and then find some old cocker who perhaps brought with him a trio or. pair of some favorite breed of games, and has kept breeding them together ever since in order to keep his breed pure, and to his sorrow he gives them up as worthless for fighting. There has been much written upon this subject the past season. We find one English breeder of some repu- tation holding to it as if it were his only hope, showing how it worked in animals, why not the same in game fowls? No doubt they can be in- bred for a number of years, but in doing so intelligence on the part of the breeder is required, also great care and study in the selection of his breeding stock. It is almost impossible nowadays to obtain a breed of games pure. You will find when you breed them that they have one or more crosses, and sooner or later this will show itself, and yet this in-and-in breeding will produce bad results when practiced by an inexperienced breeder, and to do it successfully must understand his fowl. It is a well known fact that some of our finest horses, cattle and sheep have been produced by this in-and-in breeding. To pre- serve certain characteristics an amount of close breeding is necessary, Aw 24 COCKER’S MANUAL, but for strength of constitution the less the better. When our fowls have been bred in-and-in too long they begin to be slower in their motions, the hens do not lay as well as before, and they moult later and slower each season. “The question of in-breeding has never been settled by the uniform custom of any considerable number of breeders. The practice in England appears to be once in and once out, avoiding incest, while the American practice leans to the practice of twice in and once out. Some of the best English authorities have recommended the custom that prevails in this country, though it is not reduced to anything like uniformity among American breeders. By in-and-in breeding is un- derstood to imply the union of near relatives, avoiding kindred of the first degree. Long continued in-breeding would tend to diminish the bone and reduce the dimensions of the muscular form and propor- tions. It therefore becomes necessary to breed out to strangers, to keep up size and bone. As soon as this end is accomplished, we can breed back to kindred, and refine bone and muscle. By this simple process of enlarging and refining, we get the most substance in the least comrass. “The wild horse, in promiscuous intercourse, avoids consanguinity, or continued in-breeding in the highest degree, by the simple law of nature. It is a wise provision, designed to perpetuate the race. The strongest of the male species govern the flock and perpetuate their kind. The king of the harem soon gets displaced by some young, courageous rival, who usurps the throne, and holds dominion through his day and generation. He is succeeded by’ some other rival, who holds dominion over the flock till his successor becomes qualified, by brute force, to displace him. We have here the system of in-breeding and out crossing agreeable to the laws of nature. The deductions from the wild horse, roving at large, are decidedly in favor of in- breeding. It would be a natural conclusion from the common course of things, that when we have the best possible form and action ma- tured in the breed, not to lose half the benefit of superior excellence by crossing out to strangers except to enlarge the reservoir to hold more substance. We must keep all the improvement we have got, and get all we can.’: . COCKER’S MANUAL. 25 CROSSING OF THE GAME. There can be no doubt that crossing as practiced by the more ex- perienced and cautious breeders is of real benefit as it hardens up the feather, increases the size and gives us more bone and muscle, and also helps lessen the amount of superfluous flesh, the last being one great point for an old cocker as a less amount of work is required to prepare him for pit fighting. The game fowl is unlike many others, consequently the benefits of crossing can be realized ina single season, the results of which can well be shown, perhaps in some of our fowls in days gone by, but well remembered by many old fanciers and who still speak with as much pride of their Claibornes, Heathwoods, Bal- timores, etc., as our great horsemen do of their Longfellow, Bassett, etc. Here the benefit of crossing was shown in its full force, as no fowl was ever produced that excelled them in an old cocker’s eye, as determination and force in fighting could here be found. Many think as they have two strains of games that is all that is needed to make a cross, consequently their fowls in time show much worse than their old ones. Nothing can be gained in crossing without regard to form, size and general characteristics of your breeding stock. Expe- rience of old and reliable fanciers everywhere have shown this, and all ; breeders should seek to be as near perfect as possible. We believe it eannot be disputed that old cockers have made the game what they are, giving him his ferocious disposition, hardness of feather and per- fect build, and it never could have been done without care and study in breeding them. By crossing is meant the mixing of breeds, and if two towls of dif- ferent breeds cross a third is invariably produced different from either and partaking to a large extent of the qualities of both is frequently and it may be invariably said better than either. The follewing arti- ele upon this subject was written by Newmarket in the Journal of Horticulture : “Some breeders assert that in crossing, color and form or shape are derived chiefly from the cock, and that size, vigor and constitution. come from the hen. I would not, however, ‘give ‘much for any brood cock that did not impart all qualities to his progeny in excess of the hen. * * * * * * * As to crossing and mixing the different colors I think that Piles and Red Duns cross best of all, both being of 3 26 COCKER’S MANUAL. alight red. Reds will always spoil the color of grays, giving them a tinge of red and brown, but grays do not spoil the reds. The best colored Duckwings are bred from the dark gray cross though this spoils dark grays. It is well known to all good breeders that crossing colors is very injudicious, as a rule all the best breeders liking each sort to be exactly alike both in shape, in feather and in blood, and disliking all mongrel mixed colors and crosses. * * * * * * In crossing colors when the hens are of a stronger and harder color than the cock, most of the cock chickens will be the color of the hen and the pullets the color of the cock. For instance, in crossing brown- red hens with a willow-legged black-breasted red cock most of the cocks will be brown-reds and most of the pullets ot the partridge color. This. however, is not a good cross.’’ Darwin says: ‘There can be no doubt that crossing, with the aid of rigorous selection during several generations, has been a potent means in modifying old races, and in forming new ones. Lord Or- ford crossed his famous stud of greyhounds once with the bull- -dog, which breed was chosen from being deficient in scenting powers, and from having what was wanted, courage and perseverance. In the course of six or seven generations all traces of the external form of the bulldog were eliminated, but courage and perseverance remained. Certain pointers have been crossed, as I hear from the Rev. W. D. Fox, with the fox-hound, to give them dash and speed. Certain strains of Dorking fowls have a slight infusion of Game blood; and I have known a great fancier who on a single occasion crossed his tur- bit-pigeons with barbs, for the sake of gaining greater width of beak. ‘In the foregoing cases breeds have been crossed once, for the sake of modifying some particular character; but with most of the im- proved races of the pig, which now breed true, there have been re- peated crosses—for instance, the improved Essex owes its excellence to repeated crosses with the Neapolitan, together probably with some infusion of Chinese blood. So with our British sheep; almost all the races, except the Southdown, have been largely crossed ; ‘this, in fact, has been the history of our principal breeds.’ To give an example, the ‘Oxfordshire Downs’ now rank as an established breed. They were produced about the year 1830 by crossing ‘Hampshire and some instances Southdown ewes with Cotswold rams ;’ now the Hampshire ram was itself produced by repeated crosses between the native Hamp- COCKER’S MANUAL. 27 shire sheep and Southdowns; and the long-wooled Cotswold were improved by crosses with the Leicester, which latter is again believed to have been a cross between several long-wooled sheep. Mr. Spoon- er, after considering the various cases which have been carefully re- corded, concludes, ‘that from a judicious pairing of cross-bred ani- mals it is practicable to establish a new breed.’ On the Continent the history of several crossed races of cattle and other animals, has been well ascertained. To give one instance: The King of Wurtem- berg, after twenty-five years’ careful breeding, that is after six or sev- en generations, made a new breed of cattle from a cross between a Dutch and Swiss breed, combined with other breeds. The Sebright bantam, which breeds as true as any other kind of fowl, was formed about sixty years ago by a complicated cross. Dark Brahmas, which are believed by some fanciers to constitute species, were undoubtedly formed in the United States, within a recent period, by a cross be- tween Chittagongs and Cochins. With plants I believe there is little doubt that some kinds of turnips, now extensively cultivated, are crossed races ; and the history of a variety of wheat which was raised from two very distinct varieties, and which after six years’ culture presented an even sample, has been recorded on good authority. “Until quite lately, cautious and experienced breeders, though not averse to a single infusion of foreign blood, were almost universally convinced that the attempt to establish a new race, intermediate be- tween two widely distinct races, was hopeless. ‘They clung with su- perstitious tenacity to the doctrine of purity of blood, believing it to be the ark in which alone true safety could be found.’ Nor was this conviction unreasonable: when two distinct races are crossed, the offspring of the first generation are generally nearly uniform in char- acter; but even this sometimes fails to be the case, especially with crossed dogs and fowls, the young of which from the first are some-. times much diversified. As cross-bred animals are generally of large size and vigorous, they have been raised in great numbers for imme- consumption. But for breeding they are found to be utterly useless; for though they may be themselves uniform in character, when paired together they yield during many generations offspring astonishingly diversified. The breeder is driven to despair, and concludes that he will never form an intermediate race. But from the cases already given, and from others which have been recorded, it appears that pa- a 28 COCKER’S MANUAL. tience alone is necessary; as Mr. Spooner remarks, ‘nature opposes: no barrier to successful admixture; in the course of time, by the aid of selection and careful weeding, it is practicable to establish a new breed. After six or seven generations the hoped-for-result will in most cases be obtained; but even thén an occasional reversion, or failure to keep true, may be expected. The attempt, however, will assuredly fail if the conditions of life be decidedly unfavorable to the characters of either parent-breed. “Tt is scarcely possible to overrate the effects of selection occasion- ally carried on in various ways and places during thousands of gene- rations. All that we know, and, in a still stronger degree, all that we do not know, of the history of the great majority of our breeds, even: of our more modern breeds, agrees with the view that their production, through the action of unconscious and methodical selection, has been almost insensibly slow. When a man attends rather more closely than is usual to the breeding of his animals, he is almost sure to improve: them toa slight extent. They are in consequence valued in his im- mediate neighborhood, and are bred by others; and their character- istic features, whatever these may be, will then slowly but steadily be increased, sometimes by methodical and almost always by unconscious selection. At last astrain, deserving to be called a sub-variety, be- comes a little more widely known, receives a local name, and spreads. The spreading will have been extremely slow during ancient and less civilized times, but now is rapid. By the time that the new breed had assumed’ a somewhat distinct character, its history, hardly noticed at the time, will have been completely forgotten; for, as Low remarks, ‘we know how quickly the memory of such events is effaced.’ ”’ BREEDING FOR THE PIT. We do not find at the present day as much attention paid to breed- ing Games for the pit as in times gone by, still many old cockers take as much pains as ever and show just as much care and attention in breeding as in an earlier day. The best breeders for the pit consider the cock as ahead of all the qualities, consequently show great care in selecting thein, as in breeding for this special purpose we must not ‘SSANVD CHU-NMOUE COCKER’S MANUAL. 32 seek color but strength and endurance with all the good fighting qual- ities. Color, as will be observed, is of secondary importance and should not be preferred to the essential requisites for the pit. It is generally considered that a cross fowl is best for this purpose and for this reason the breed selected to cross with must be equally as good: and better if possible in their fighting qualities than those possessed by the breed intended to be crossed. In the selections made it is. hardly needful to be remarked that great caution should be observed, for it is frequently the case that some games are good billers but very poor strikers, and such it is hardly desirable to breed from. A selec- tion should be made of a well tested cock of a reliable breed, a good: biller and striker, a savage and inveterate fighter, quick in movement and who shows no quarter to his antagonist. Breeders for the pit generally allow three hens to a stag and five hens to a cock. Some, however, prefer only two hens to a cock. INFLUENCE OF THE SIRE. It is still an unsettled question as to the length of time it is neces- sary to keep a hen after a cock has been changed before the eggs can be set with a certainty of getting chicks sired by the new cock We have seen statements to the effect that 2 permanent influence resulted from copulation in the case of fowls—that absolute purity of blood could not be depended upon if the hen at any time had run with a cock of different breed. On the other hand, we find with many a cominon impression that impregnation takes place but a short time before the egg is laid. If we wish to be doubly sure we should not breed from a hen until she had finished laying her litter and wishes to set, then we would place her with a cock we desired to breed from. In this way we think we could be more assured that we had the breed we most desired. The following was written by a well known western breeder, who has given the subject much careful attention, and which we consider worthy of mention : : ‘“A correct answer to this question is important to the breeder of high-class poultry, to enable him to know when a breeding hen should 32 COCKER’S MANUAL. be confined or removed from the cock to maintain purity in her pro- geny; also, what number of eggs, being laid by one hen, are fertile after the cock has been removed from the yard. I shall not attempt to answer this question fully, but give such observations as have come to my notice. “Tn examining some of the leading works on poultry, such as Wright, Tegetmeir, aud others, I find the chapters on eggs, their formation, etc., do not touch upon the subject, but slip out of it easily, and fail to give a hint tending to a solution, All the answers I have ever seen have appeared in periodicals, and were written by breeders who gave their individual opinions, just as the subscriber is now doing. Their answers are that the period at which a cock can be removed from the hen and still have the eggs she may produce fertile at four, six, eight, ten or more days, and I believe one man had such wonder- ful hens that the characteristics of a certain cock were seen in their progeny, although they had been removed from him the year pre- vious. For fear of contamination, or for effect, some persons adver- tise that they keep their various breeds separated the entire year. This carefulness is well enough, but fully shows the ignorance of the breed- er, who seeks to make reputation by such proclamations. ‘After the yolk has fully matured, the sac which contains it is de- tached from the ovary, and passes into the oviduct or egg-passage. It is in the egg passage, in my opinion, that the eggs becomes fertilized ; That at different seasons more or less eggs are so maturing in this pas- sage ; and that all the eggs so maturing, which have not become en- veloped with the skin which we find next to the shell, are impregnated if the hen comes in contact with the cock. Hence, as production goes on faster at one period than at another, it is impossible to fix any given number of days that one impregnation by the cock may last. “It is well established that a pure-bred hen may remain with cocks of other breeds with safety to the purity of her progeny at another time than during the producing seasons. It is also well established that her eggs may be fertilized by a cock of any other breed and only produce cross-bred chicks from a limited number of eggs. Physiolo- gists maintain that in most breeding females, the first male by which they are impregnated influences their subsequent progeny, no matter by what male it may be produced; and that such a female absorbs in- to her own blood, through the offspring, some of the characteristics of . COCKER’S MANUAL, 33 the male. In fowls this rule or trait does not seem to obtain, and may be, perhaps, an indirect evidence that the yolk is vitalized or impregnated after it has become detached from the ovary. “Tf this opinion is well founded, then, the exact number of days which must elapse before preserving eggs for hatching, after the hen has been placed with her cock, no definite answer can be given, as it is impossible to know the number of eggs in process of formation in ‘the egg-passage of a living hen, and in all cases, it will be safe to wait long enough, say two or three weeks, especially so if the eggs are de- signed for sale.” Again we notice in the Fancier’s Gazette, London, the following article upon the subject, which we consider of interest to all breeders: ‘‘How long after the cock’s removal does his productive influences ‘continue to affect the hen is a question more easily asked than satis- factorily answered. Our forefathers who bred their old fighting strains with a hundred times more care for the pit than we are wont to do, for the show pen, contended that a hen was never clean, i. e., free from the influence of the cock she first laid to after moulting until she moulted again. There are others who as positively affirm that every hen is clean on becoming broody, whilst not a few assure us that the influence of the cock only extend over the limited space of three or four days. Are they all right or all wrong? Iam not so egotistical as to say, but would rather, with your permission, state a few facts which may assist your readers in drawing their own conclusions. “Every experienced breeder will have often observed chickens of one clutch showing the distinctive points of two cocks when it has happened that two cock birds have been running on the brood walk at one and the same time, or when a cock of one breed has been substi- tuted for another during the laying of the hens. For instance, I have often required a brood cock from the walk for some purpose, say a full-feather plain head, and have placed with the hens a Tassel or hen cock, the result is that the laying hens then produce chickens closely resembling both the plain heads and Tassel, or full-feathered and hen- feathered cock; but the question is, ‘How Jong is it after the intro- duction of a fresh cock before this change of parentage takes place ?’ Last autumn a poultry-killing sheep-dog so bit and mutilated a brood cock—one of the handsomest I ever saw, presented to me by one of the 34 COCKER’S MANUAL, oldest and best breeders in Cheshire—that I had great difficulty in keeping him alive. I determined to breed from him this spring not- withstanding his injury, so I placed six brood hens with him in No- vember, and not until March, after sitting several nests of eggs by him without producing a single chick did I become satisfied that he had totally lost all procreative power, as all the eggs were marked with the date they were laid and all set. JI found the eggs became prolific on and after the fifth day from the introduction of another stag and not before. Again, I had occasion to take a cock from a brood walk early in the spring. A black hen was then running with a brood of young chickens, and after leaving them she laid away privately in the woods, and nine weeks and two days after the cock was taken away she appeared with a brood of eleven strong chickens. There was no pos- sibility of her getting with another cock, no other fowl being kept within a mile of the place. Requiring a few game fowls of a particu- lar color for'some friends in Australia, I last year placed a gray pullet with a brown-red cock, both having been carefully bred in-and-in and to their respective feathers, for many years previous, the produce be- ing exactly what I required, viz: blotch breasted dark grays with marigold-shouldered cocks, and a more uniform brood in color, shape and style it would be difficult to find. Being so successful I this year placed with the cock three other sisters to the pullet which had never perviously heard a cock crow. The produce of these bear the closest resemblance to those hatched last year, but their sister (mother of last year’s trial brood) has hatched nine chickens, all quite undistinguisha- ble from true brown red and good brown reds, too. Is this caused by any latent influence of the brown-red cock from last year? And will her sisters if left with the same cock until next year produce brown-reds instead of grays? I have noticed variations of colors caused by change of constitution, water, soil, and especially by food. I had a weakness in my boyish days for breeding from any strange cock I saw distinguish himself in a main, and the motley colors I often got were a sight to see, even when the hens happened to match the cock through the hot meals and stimulating food which the cock had been fed on during his preparation for bat- tle, but none of these things can have affected the birds in question in the least, and although I have my own opinion as to the cause, I shall be glad to have that of some more competent person.’’ COCKER’S MANUAL. 37 SETTING HENS. In setting hens only the largest eggs should be selected, and in no instance should a misformed egg be used for this purpose. The hen should be set in a clean dry place, so situated that other fowls cannot disturb her. She should come off regularly for food and water, both of which there should be a plentiful supply within reach. Thirteen eggs is the average setting ; frequently more than this number are set, but the study of the fancier should be rather as to the number of chicks the hen can cover than the number of eggs. During the time of setting the eggs should not be molested but nature should be al- lowed to take its course, The time required for hatching, as a gene- ral rule, is twenty-one days, but with good and continual setting the chicks will come out in twenty days. If the eggs used are fresh they will hatch within a few hours of each other; if not fresh they require at least twenty-three days and should not be destroyed before the ex- Piration of that time. Marking the eggs is conducive to convenience and certainty as it forms the means for knowing whether any have been laid since the day of setting. It is also well, though not of course necessary, to mark the day of the month. The state of the weather should be taken into consideration, as we find that a hen ca- pable of setting and hatching a certain number of eggs in the warmer months, cannot give an equal share of heat to more than two-thirds the number in the early part of the season. Another consideration worthy of notice is sprinkling the eggs with water. This process undoubtedly assists the hatching, from the fact that the chicks receive an increased supply of fresh air, and in the summer season prevents, to a great extent, the inner membrane of the egg from becoming hardened and contracted. So in moderately cold weather, as in the spring of the year, by a careful sprinkling the egg is in a great measure prevented from chilling. Setting hens occa- sionally desert their nests. The causes of such desertion are quite numerous, principal among which could be mentioned the irritating effect produced by lice. When these are found the eggs should be carefully removed, the nest’ thoroughly cleaned, and fresh straw sprinkled with sulphur and ashes placed therein, after which carefully replace the eggs sprinkled with sulphur. The hen also should be sprinkled with sulphur, though sparingly. We know of many cases 38 COCKER’S MANUAL. where this method has been used, and can recommend it as likely to produce beneficial results. ‘‘When several hens sit nearly at the same time, if any accident should happen to one of them her eggs may be distributed among others, provided they had not too many eggs in the first instance. ‘The best time to make such a transfer will be when the hen is off the nest, lest she be dissatisfied at receiving them.’’ Some cockers raise many objections against setting eggs under ‘dunghill hens; but these objections are really entitled to no weight, and in fact are only false notions, for such hens are much less inclined to be quarrelsome and less apt to be disturbed by other hens. It has been the experience of many breeders that chickens so brought up do not partake of the qualities of the dunghill, and now it is not unusual to find cockers wanting two clutches from the same hen, setting the first under a dunghill and the second under a game hen. An early writer on this subject has the following: ‘‘The desire to sit ismade known by a particular sort of clucking, which is continued until the chickens are full grown; and a feverish state ensues, in which the natural heat of the hen’s body is very much increased. The in- clination, or, as physiologists term it, the ‘starge,’ soon becomes a strong and ungovernable passion. The hen flutters about, hangs her wings, bristles up her feathers, searches everywhere for eggs to sit up- en, and if she finds any, whether laid by herself or others, she imme- diately seats herself upon them. These signs of an inclination to set ought generally to be indulged in all hens; but those are best adapted for setting which have rather short legs, a broad body, large wings, well ‘furnished with feathers, and their nails and spurs not too long nor sharp. ‘The setting hen will sometimes exhibit impatience at her close confinement, and want to get fréquently off the nest. When this is observed, one-half of the food that usually forms her meal should be withheld, and, when she has had only half her due allow- ance, replace her on the nest, and hold out to her in the hand some hemp or millet seed. This second meal has the effect of reconciling her to sit constantly without deserting her eggs. With the same view some put food and water so near the nest that the setting hen may feed without leaving her eggs for any great length of time ; while others hold that this is not so conducive to health as the more natural method of letting her come off to enjoy good water and food at some COCKER'S MANUAL. 39 little distance. Undoubtedly it is important that setting hens should have a little exercise, as well as that the eggs should be exposed to the circulation of air, to carry off any stagnant vapor which has been proved by experiments to be deleterious and destructive to the chicks still in the egg. We have ourselves remarked that setting hens are as fond of rubbing themselves in the dust as they are of food and water ; and we have always indulged them, evidently with benefit, in this habit. Other hens will sit so closely and long that they are in danger of starving themselves for want of food. Ofsuch it has been said they have been known to faint outright, as if dead, and which, when the chickens were hatched, were so exhausted as scarcely to be able to at- tend them. It is recommended that such should be fed on the nest.’’ We find in the April number of the Fanciers’ Journal a well written article upon this subject and of interest to all breeders: “Burn out every nest-box, new or old, before and after using. The charred surface will not favor the lodgment of vermin. Fill each nest-bottom with freshly cut sod slightly hollowed towards the center, covering with fine straw. Sprinkle nest and hen with carbolic pow- der. Don’t use too much sulphur; in fact if carbolic powder is ob- tainable don’t use it at all. Let your hen get accustomed to the nest before trusting her with the eggs; then give the eggs, fo her, quietly inserting them under her rather than giving her to the eggs. ‘Make haste slowly." Don’t give her more than she can cover and care for well. Mark the eggs with ink, giving kind, if necessary, and date of sitting, preserving a duplicate record in a book kept for the purpose. Examine the nest daily. If an egg is broken, or even cracked, re- move it. Ifthe remaining eggs have any trace of the disaster, clean them from it by washing thena carefully in tepid water. The contents of an egg are alive or dead. If alive they must have air. If the pores or air-ducts of the shell are closed, the contents die of suffocation. The grave is made and hermetically sealed. It is our plan to moisten the eggs and nests three times during the last ten days of incubation when the nest is in a dry, warm situation, and the hen not permitted the freedom of out-of-doors. We have found it done most easily and effectually by a fine rose sprinkler, using tepid water. If a chick must be helped from the shell, give it aid in the form of warmth, and‘ warmth only. Insert the pipped or unpipped egg if you are assured that it contains life, in warm water, being careful to keep the opening 40 COCKER’S MANUAL. of the pipped shell above the surface. It is wonderful how quickly new life will be infused, and the little bird gain strength to help itself. If in the course of hatching it is necessary to examine the nest and its contents, remove the hen, then the contents. Allow the hen to re- turn to the nest, then give chicks and eggs Zo her; she will carefully tuck them away where they shall not be injured. Mark the chicks when taken from the nest in a web of the foot either with one of Scribner’s steel punches, or with a darning needle filled with coarse twisted silk, leaving the silk in the hole until it is healed. Make record of the mark and its purpose. Do not teed the chicks for the first twenty-four hours after hatching, then give hard boiled eggs or bread and milk.” The best brood of chickens we ever saw were never fed mixed or ‘artificial’ feed of any kind, but simply broken grains, coarse corn-meal, oat-meal, and bird seeds. It was an experiment, and astccess. Exainine each chick’s head for the long lice that are so often found there. Kerosene oil is an excellent remedy, simply applying it with the finger, the lice are exposed to view, and they generally yield to the first application. Give young chicks every care and attention. Do not let them be stunted by exposure to cold, dampness, or lack of food. Feed often, but not more at a time than will be eaten up clean. Rernember that chickens are early asleep and and early awake, and prepare food for them to find as soon as they are out in the morning, at daylight, instead of allowing them to chirp around half-starved for two or three hours. If you can manage to give them alate evening feed, they will thrive under it. Any one caring to make the experiment will be astonished at the difference in the growth of chicks fed early, often, and late, and that regularly, and those fed, as they too frequently are, without any system—‘when I happen to think of it’’’ YOUNG CHICKS. If possible the feed for the first week should consist of hard boiled eggs, oat meal, bread crumbs, etc. Where a large number ate raised this system of feeding would perhaps be attended with too much trouble and expense ; but even where such is the case efforts should be made to give them at least two or three feeds as above. Chicks COCKER’S MANUAL. 4t under two weeks old should be fed as often as every two hours during the day, and no more should be given at each feed than they can eat up clean. They should be kept at a distance from the house to pre- vent them from drinking muddy or filthy water. Oftimes it will not do to allow several hens with their chickens to run upon the yard at the same time on account of their quarrelsome disposition and liabil- ity to kill each other’s chickens, etc.; and when from any cause they are confined in coops they should be plentifully supplied with fresh water and green feed. Green grass chopped fine, lettuce, cabbage, etc., should be mixed with their food. A little meat two or three times a week is also good. Wheat screenings are very good for chicks five or six weeks old. In no case should bread soaked in water be fed as it soon sours in the stomach, and is productive of disease. A little camphor put into the drinking water will be found to assist greatly im keeping the chicks in good health. It is bad policy to allow spring * chicks to roost before they are three or four months old, as before that time the tendency is to produce crooked breast bones, so frequently seen in young fowls. Respecting the care of chickens Mr. Bement says: ‘‘We are certain more chickens are destroyed by over feeding than are lost by the want’ of it. We have remarked also that hens which stole their nests gen- erally hatched all their eggs; and if suffered to seek the food for her chickens, if the season was somewhat advanced, she would, unless some casualty occurred, raise the whole brood, while with too much kindness or officiousness not half would be raised. All watery food, such as soaked bread or potatoes, should be avoided. If Indian meal is well boiled and fed not too moist, it will answer a very good pur- pose, particularly after they are eight or ten days old. Pure water must be placed near them, either in shallow dishes or bottle fountains, so that the chickens may drink without getting into the water, which by wetting their feathers benumbs and injures them. After having confined them for five or six days in the box, they may be allowed the range of the yard if the weather is fair. They should not be let out of their coops too early in the morning, or while the dew is on the ground ; far less be suffered to range over the wet grass, which is. a common and fatal cause of death. Another cause of the utmost consequence to guard them against is sudden unfavorable changes of the weather, more particularly if attended with rain. Really all the 4 42 COCKER’S MANUAL. diseases of gallinaceous fowls arise from cold moisture. At the end of four weeks, the hen may be allowed to lead her little ones into the poultry yard, where she will soon wean them and commence laying. again. The feathering of chickens demands attention inasmuch as with them it is a most trying time. If chickens feather rapidly when very young they are always weakly, however healthy in other respects, from the fact that their food goes to sustain their feathers instead of their Jodies, and they frequently languish and die from this circum- stance alone; but if, on the other hand, they feather slowly the food in early life goes to nourish and sustain their bodies until they become more vigorous and old enough to sustain the shock of feathering with- out detriment. Chickens which feather rapidly must be kept perfectly dry and warm, however strange it may appear, or they will die; while naked chickens, as they are called, or those which feather at a more advanced age and very slowly, seldom suffer from the cold from the fact that their down is very warm and their blood is hotter and cir- culates more rapidly, as their food principally goes to blood, flesh and bone, and not to feathers.’’ In closing we will only say, don’t try to raise too many, fora place that will accommodate a large number when chicks will be found much too small when grown. Close quarters cause vermin and dis- ease. We think these instructions and the aid of a little common sense will insure you success. RULES FOR FEEDING. Nearly every old cocker has rules for feeding of his own which he follows, often producing goed results ; but our object is to give rules which have been extensively used and which on that account can be regarded as standard authority, and the following if carefully observed will result in marked success : The first thing to be provided is a coop of sufficient size, and suita- ble for a cock to exercise in. Probably one two and one-half feet wide, three feet high and three feet deep, with a roost running through the middle, would be sufficient. Another requisite is a. place with sufficient light and air. Put up your cocks in the evening two weeks COCKER’S MANUAL. 43 before they are to fight ; if stags ten days will do. For the first three or four days let the feed be mush and molasses. If your cocks be very fat mix a little vinegar with the evening food. After the third day physic them with one ounce of Epsom salts to three ounces of butter, mix well together, and at night be sure that they have no food in their coop. Give each cock a pill the size of a marble. The next day let them have as much water as they will drink. The first feed after giv- ing the physic should be mush and milk, one tablespoonful to each eock, and one feed of the white of hard boiled eggs chopped fine and mixed with barley. During the last week do not feed any barley but feed bread and eggs in the morning, and cracked corn and eggs in the evening. Wash their feet once a day and sponge their heads with ram reduced with vinegar; equal parts:should be used. Before feed- ‘ing in the morning exercise for a short time, increasing the length of time each feed. To give them their exercise, toss them on a bag stuffed with straws or a soft cushion until they become tired. If you have a very fat cock give him extra exercise and immediately after sponge and wipe dry; then place him in the coop and do not give him drink until he has become sufficiently cool. Be careful to exam- zne each cock before cooping, to see if there are any signs of disease about him; and if so remove at once. If possible let the drink be spring water, and that only to be given once a day, at noon; two or three swallows are sufficient. Jf the cock is very thin in flesh, beat sp the white of an egg with a little boiled milk, and give two swallows twice aday. The utmost care must be taken to keep the coops clean. It is best to remove the straw every morning and put in fresh. Fre- quent use of the weights is necessary to show the order and condition of the cocks. Extra fat cocks will require longer exercise and others proportionately. Ifa fowl is extremely eager to drink, it shows too much fever ; in this case give a little nitre with the water, and the fever will be reduced in a short time. This should be repeated until the desire for drink subsides. In no case feed a cock unless his crop is empty. Large fat cocks can be reduced from eight to fourteen ounces ; smaller ones from three to eight ounces. The following is to be found in the Edinburg Encyclopeedia : “~ in the carpet, or in the web of the pit. Art, 8.—When either pitter shall have counted ten tens successivel y> without the fowl refusing fight, making fight, again breasting thems fair on their feet, breast to breast and beak to beak on the center scoré: or mark, on the fifth ten being told, and also on the ninth ten beings 5 58 . COCKER’S MANUAL. told, shall have won the fight. _ The pitters are bound to tell each ten as they count them, as follows: once, twice, etc. Art. 9.—No pitter, after the fowls have been delivered in the pit, shall be permitted to clean their beaks or eyes by blowing or other- wise, or of squeezing his fowl, or pressing him against the floor during the pendency of a fight. ART. 10.—When a fowl! is pounded and no person takes it until the pitter counts twenty twice and calls three times “‘Who takes it?’’ and no person does take it, it is a battle to the fowl the odds are on; but the pitter of the pounded fowl kas the right to have the pound put up, that is, twenty dollars against one , should not this be complied with, then the pitter shall go on as though there was no poundage. Art. r1.—If a fowl is pounded and the poundage taken, and if the bird the odds are laid against should get up and knock down his ad- versary, then if the other bird is pounded and the poundage not taken before the pitter counts twenty twice and calls out ‘‘Who takes it?’’ three times, he wins, although there was a poundage before. Arr, 12.—It shall be the duty of the respective pitters to deliver their fowls fair on their feet on the outer mark or score, facing each other, and in a standing position, except on the fifth ten being told, and alse on the ninth ten being told, when they shall be placed on the center score, breast to breast and beak to beak, in like manner. Any pitter being guilty of shoving his bird across the score, or of pinching him, or using any other unfair means for the purpose ef making his bird fight, shall lose the fight. Arr. 13.—If both birds fight together, and then if both should refuse until they are counted out. in such case a fresh one is to be hoveled and brought into the pit and the pitters are to toss for which bird is to set to first; he that wins has the choice; then the one which is to set to last is to be taken up but not carried out of the pit. The hoveled bird is then to be put down to the other and let fight, while the judges, or one of them, shall count twenty, and the other in like manner; and if one fights and the other refuses it is a battle to the fighting bird; but if both fight or both refuse it is a drawn battle. N. B.—This rule is rarely carried into effect, but any pitter can ex- act it if he thinks proper to do so. é ai ’ COCKER’S MANUAL. 59 Arr. 14.—If both birds refuse, fighting until four, five or more or less tens are counted, the pitters shall continue their count until one has refused ten times ; for when a pitter begins to count he counts for both. Arr. 15.—Ifa bird should die before they are counted out, if he fights last he wins the battle; This, however is not to apply when his adversary is running away. Arr. 16.—The crowing, or raising of the hackle of a bird is not fight, nor is fighting at the pitter’s hands. Art. 17.—A breaking fowl is a fighting one, but breaking from his adversary is not fight. Art. 18.—If any dispute arises between the pitters on the result of the fight, the birds are not to be taken out of the pit, nor the gafts taken off, until it is decitled by the judges or referee. ART. 19.—Each fowl within two ounces of each other shall be a match; except blinkers when fighting against two-eyed birds, an allowance of from three to five ounces shall be made; when blinkers are matched against each other the same rule to apply as te two-eyed contestants. ArT 20.—Any person fighting a bird heavier than he is represented on the match list shall lose the fight, although he may have won. Arr. 21.—In all cases of appeal fighting ceases until the judges or the referee give their decision, which shall be final and strictly to the question before them. Arr. 22,—When a bet is made it cannot be declared off unless by consent of both parties, all outside bets to go according to the main bet. Art. 23.—Each pitter when delivering his fowl on the score shall take his hands off him as quickly as possible. ART. 24.—Any person violating any of the above rules shall i deemed to have lost the match. PHILADELPHIA RULES. ARTICLE 1.—The pit must be a%ground floor, unless otherwise agreed to. Art, 2.—The cock or stag must be weighed enclosed in a small bag, and then two ounces deducted for the weight of the bag and feathers. 60 COCKER’S MANUAL. A stag fighting a cock has an allowance of four ounces in weight, 2 blinker cock fighting a two-eyed one has four ounces ; a blinker cock and a stag of one weight are a match. i Art. 3 —The cocks being weighed and matched, you will cut — t; you must cut the hackle with all the shiners off; you can use your own pleasure about cutting out other parts of your cock. Art. 4.—Your cock now being cut out you will heel him; you can heel him with paper and water and nothing but that; if you do you will lose the battle if the opposite party finds it out. ArT. 5.—Your cock being heeled, you will bring him in the pit for battle ; you will bill the cocks one minute, and then. ‘put them down behind your scores for their battle. Art. 6.—In fighting a battle, according to Philadelphia Rules, when you deliver your cock on his score, you must stand back of him and not lean over him to hide him from the other cock. ART. 7.—A cock breaking with another cock is fight, and a cock picking at any time when on the ground is fight; but picking while in your hands is-not fight; he must make fight after you deliver him out of your hands, ’ Art, 8.—When the cocks are fast, you must handle by my drawing your spur out of my cock and you drawing my spus out of your cock, you then have thirty seconds to nurse your cock; the judge will call “down cocks ;’’ then you must strictly obey and put your cock down to renew the battle. In case one of the cocks gets disabled, you can count him out; you can lay yout cock down on his wing on his score, and count ten without the other cock making fight; you can handle him again, and so on until you count five tens; then you can get ready to breast your cocks; you must put them down on their feet and breast to breast, and if the crippled cock refuses to fight while the opposite handler counts twenty more, he has lost the battle. ART. 9.— You are not bound to lay your cock on his wing, you can use your pleasure whether to lay him on his wing or on his feet; if it is to your advantage for your cock to fight, put him down on his feet and let him fight. Arr. 10.—In counting a cock out, after you breast the cocks and you are counting twenty, if the cock should get in the disabled cock, you dare not put your hand on them unless the disabled cock makes SUINVD GTd Cea , COCKER’S MANUAL. 63 fight; and if he does make fight, you can handle, and by his making fight it will renew all the counting from the first, and if the disabled cock should make fight last it is his count. Art. 11.—The judges cut the heels off, and if all is right you must get teady for the next battle; you,are allowed twenty minutes to be in the pit with the next cock. The judges-are to keep the time. Art. 12.—All outside bets go as the main stakes. Arr. 13.—Any man not paying bets that he lost will not be allowed in any pit in Philadelphia hereafter. WESTERN RULES. Rute 1.—All birds shall be weighed, give or take two ounees, shall be a match or otherwise if parties see fit to make it so. RULE 2.—All heels to be fought with shall round from socket to point, or as near so as can be made. RULE 3.—When a stag is matched against a cock, the stag will be entitled to four ounces advance in weight. RuLeE 4.—It shall be fair for handlers to pull feathers and sling blood, er any other thing to help the bird between handlings. RUuLeE 5.—It shall be foul for A or B to touch their birds while fight- ing unless one is fast to the other, but if a bird should unfortunately fasten himself with his own heel it shall be fair to handle, but on no other consideration, and either handler violating or deviating from the above rules shall lose his fight. Rue 6.—Thirty seconds shall be allowed between each and every round. Rute 7.—In counting, the bird showing fight last shall be entitled to the count, but if his handler refuse to take the count the opposite handler shall be entitled to it. Rue 8.—The handler having the count shall pit his bird in his respective place when time is called, and count ten, then handle three more successive times; when time is called again, the birds shall be placed in the center of the pit, breast to breast, and forty more count- ed, and if the bird not having the count refuse to fight, the one hav- ing it shall be the winner. 64 COCKER’S MANUAL, RuLe 9.—A peck or blow at the opponent’s bird, and not at hi thandler, will be considered fighting. RULE 10,—When time is called the handlers must let go their birds from their respective places fair and square, for it shall be foul for ‘either handler to pitch or toss his bird upon his opponent’s, and veither one violating the above rule shall lose his fight. Rue 11.—Each party shall choose a judge, and the judges chcose -a disinterested party as referee. No referee will be competent vho hhas bet on either side, or is otherwise interested. Rue 15.—-It shall be the duty of the judges and referee to witch all movements of the fights and judge according to the above rules. The referee will be confined to the opinions of the judges only, and ‘his decision final. ' RULE 13.—It shall be the duty of the referee to keep time between sthe rounds and notify the handlers to get ready at twenty-five seconds, -then call time at thirty seconds, when the handlers must be prompt in spitting their birds; and if either handler refuse to do so, he shall lose whe fight. SOUTHERN RULES. ARTICLE 1.—When the cocks are in the pit the judges are to ex- amine whether they are fairly trimmed and have fair heels. If all be ight and fair the pitters are to deliver their cocks six feet apart (or thereabouts) and retire a step or two back; but if a wrong cock should ¥se produced the party so offending forfeits that battle. Arr. 2,—All heels that are round from the socket to the point are :allowed to be fair; any pitter bringing a cock into the pit with any