Cornell University Library OF THE Hew Work State College of Agriculture “Famine = y ~ ea asl oI oe Z EIN UZ Na re fa) “ak figs a = A NW AY at a N x “< Le asudleggngg eG? e See eee = SIM: Be eave, fie, Lully UG, ny area? hte. LARS OS ei Satta veg ah i SUBS ge. SU eg, GILT (t, Vf ¥ a or = “ FEM Mee’ et Me oS ‘, oe 4 a ae. Cat S&S CEL. Mey os * I Ay NAY, ‘ - rae =. On, Ce once — , a heen ALG < vey we oy iy iN a o \ ee Dee, PUB LISHING Co- th a pay i ae ‘ . “ ZS ON, w F VM, “QUINCY: ILLVSA : a et MN Aa Uhl ny ee ? 2) Wey GF 5 Ak ra ae a | oN “ed ‘YA pue syooy yINoud] “a9 ‘Suq adAjowoiy5-oj0yg d sSojjopuedAAA PNG pur IdAlIS yng pue sy AA ‘paeg jo 1apsaiq Ayeloads ‘ssey ‘1ayseouey] ‘SuULyMBH "DV Aq paiiqiyxa pure pau SALLOGNWAM ALIHM daes-dYVGNVLS MO *‘Sobr ‘uojysog 3¥ uad azud ysi1y SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEPING A TEXT BOOK FOR THE BEGINNER AND FOR ALL PERSONS INTERESTED IN BETTER POULTRY AND MORE OF IT—CONTAINS THE “SECRETS OF SUCCESS” BOTH FOR PLEASURE AND PROFIT—NEW AND VALUABLE INFORMA- TION ON ALL BRANCHES OF THE POULTRY BUSINESS * ONE DOLLAR 1907 _ RELIABLE POULTRY JOURNAL PUBLISHING CO. si QUINCY, ILLINOIS COPYRIGHT, 1907 i BY RELIABLE POULTRY JOURNAL PUBLISHING CO. QUINCY. ILLINOIS INTRODUCTORY UCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEPING means more to us than the mere words used as a title for this book. It means to us that we want you, valued reader, to be successful, not only in a financial way but also in deriving satisfaction and enjoy- ment from your venture in poultry keeping. We want you to learn to know the business, for poultry keeping is now one of our most important industries, to have a liking for it and in learning the business to attain success in such measure as your individual efforts entitle you. This book is essentially a compilation of the writings and experiences of many practical, observing business men who are poultrymen first, then fanciers or purveyors to the poultry markets as their several interests dictate. We have endeavored to collect the latest and best reliable information for the beginner with poultry, telling him how to start, what others are doing and have done, the best houses to build, how to manage his flock, in fact we try to show him, in so far as we may, how to become a successful poultry keeper. Successful poultry keeping depends upon much the same things that success does in any undertaking or business enter- prise. To be successful in any line of work slothful, careless, extravagant habits must give way to thrifty, painstaking and economical methods. Thought must be put into your work. Cause and effect must be studied; all the details must be looked after with intelligent care, and the hand that receives the income must constantly watch the hand that pays out. There is money—‘good money”’, as the saying goes—to be made out of poultry, but this business like any other, must be learned before great things can be accomplished. Like other human enterprises, poultry-raising pays better and better accordingly as you put more and more thought into the business. In the poultry business, above all others, ordinary common sense is the thing most needful. It is not within the scope of this book to coyer every case, but no matter where we go, certain things are true about poultry and poultry keeping, among the number being these: That poultry and eggs at all times of the year meet with a ready sale for cash; that the price of poultry and eggs does not fall below the cost of production, where intelligent methods are employed; that extra or gilt-edged prices can everywhere be obtained for first quality stock,—i. e., for extra choice, uniform and neatly dressed fowls and strictly fresh eggs; that it costs practically no more when one is rightly equipped for the work to produce a first quality article than an inferior one; that by the proper use of artificial means the highest market price can be obtained at all seasons of the year; that by adopting up-to-date methods, hundreds of dozens of eggs can be produced during the season of the year when they will command the higher prices, and that hundreds, yes, thousands of chickens or ducklings can now be raised with success and profit on a comparatively small plat of ground. A surprising amount of poultry and eggs can be produced on an acre of ground, while a full-fledged farm can be conducted on a five acre piece, where knowledge and good sense go hand in hand. Not all men are qualified to succeed to the same extent, but we claim it is fair to cite exceptional cases of success in the poultry business, where the methods employed and the man or woman who employs them is not a wonder-worker in any way, except that he or she has put heart and brains into the work. There are several branches of the poultry business that are sepa- rate and distinct from each other, although a number of success- ful men and women whom we know combine two or more branches of the business with success. What one man or woman has done, or is doing, others can do; hence, when we cite actual cases of success that have come under our personal observation, we feel that we are simply pointing out what others can do. It is no doubt true that where one person succeeds with poultry several fail. If this were not true there would be no excuse for publishing this book, the chief object of which is to describe success as it exists, and to explain fully how it was achieved. It is not the object of this book to induce thought- less, heedless persons to rush -pell-mell into poultry raising. All such persons will do well to give poultry raising a wide berth. Their habits will not win in this business. We do not mean to convey the idea that it takes a specially high order of intelli- gence to succeed with poultry, for it does not, but we are frank enough to warn the reckless, the shiftless and the indolent that they will make a flat failure with poultry. ORIGIN OF DOMESTIC POULTRY No one can say positively where, when or how the ances- tors of our present domestic poultry came into being. Some tell us that all our fowls are descended from a common ancestry whose present-day direct descendant is the Jungle Fowl of the benighted Eastern countries. While this may be true the fact remains that this descent or ascent or evolution, whatever you please to call it, must have occupied many, many centuries and today no one has thus far been able to prove his case beyond the shadow of a doubt. Ancient coins struck by ancient coiners 500, 600 and even more years before Christ bear the image of a cock bird on them, and these representations would some of them do credit to our poultry artists of today and portray birds that certainly must have had careful breeding at the hands of men. Undoubtedly as long as man has lived in a semi-civilized or civilized state, having some semblance of a home more or less permanent, just so long has poultry been domesticated and bred by man. The bones of domestic poultry are frequently un- earthed in all of the excavations of ancient cities, in the Orient, and evidence is abundant that many ancient philosophers and writers had a decided leaning toward poultry keeping. Who shall say what breeds they may or may not have had in that long past age? Consider our own short experience, the poultry business is young in this country even now, for some forty years or more ago the art of breeding thoroughbreds, as we now know them, was having its beginning. In this short time new breeds have sprung up, flourished for a time, even boomed, and then have apparently vanished in-so-far as general publicity is concern- ed. Judging from what takes place in other life channels may not this have been going on for centuries? Many breeds may have lived and died in those ancient times, the history of which is even now most uncertain. It may be that in the beginning the small, black, brown and red jungle fowl, itself of uncertain origin, was the original source from which our modern fowls have sprung, but inspection of the present day representative of this root of the domestic poultry family tree, makes it appear quite as far a cry as the evolution of mankind from a long-tailed ape. Still, wonders INTRODUCTORY may be accomplished by domestication and careful breeding, and man undoubtedly did wonderfully develop and improve by domesticating and breeding such wild fowl as came his way and took his fancy. That this is probably substantially true we have evidence in our present day standard varieties. More than half the varieties of fowls now illustrated and described in the American Standard of Perfection have been' developed, or come into being, during the past half century and even within the past thirty years more than a dozen varieties have “arrived.” Thirty years ago there were no Silver Laced Wyandottes, White Wyandottes, Buff Wyandottes, White Plymouth Rocks, Buff Plymouth Rocks nor Buff Leghorns in this country. During the last dozen years more new breeds have come into existence, and we now have Partridge Wyandottes and Plymouth Rocks, Columbian Wyan- dottes and still others, many of which are now described in the latest edition of American Standard of Perfection. The majority of these did not exist in the world twenty-five or thirty years ago. ESSENTIALS OF SUCCESS New varities are being created from time to time, some claim too numerously, others think not. Regardless of which is right, the constant aim may be said to be improvement either in utility or beauty, or both, and the goal sought at all times in the breeding of every variety is greater excellence, and the man or woman who is able to “mix the paints” and use ‘‘an eye for outline” to the best advantage is certain to win a golden reward, for the competition is keen and there is a widespread and con- stantly growing desire to “‘own the best.” THE STANDARD OF PERFECTION The American Standard of Perfection, an illustrated book of some 300 pages, is often referred to as the national guide of poultrymen. This book is published under copyright by the American Poultry Association, a national organization devoted to the advancement of the poultry industry. In the Standard ‘book each class, breed and variety is set forth, amd each and every variety is described with great care as to size, form and color, and every breeder is aiming to produce fowls from year to year that will come as near as possible to the standard require- ments. The illustrations of ideal fowls will prove a great help to all beginners. Wonderful progress has been made by intelli- gent and persevering breeders, and the choicest specimens from year to year are placed on exhibition at the annual poultry shows by the breeders themselves, or are sold to other breeders for exhibition purposes. At these poultry shows (some 500 or more or which are held every winter in the leading cities of the country, in addition to hundreds of poultry departments that are run in connection with annual district, state or county fairs), so-called poultry judges, or men who are well versed in the standard requirements and who make a business of judging poultry either by comparing two or more birds together, or by the use of what is called the score card, judge the fowls on exhibition, and cash premiums or ribbons are given to the birds that come nearest to perfection, that is, to the standard requirements. TABLE OF CONTENTS QUESTIONS ANSWERED IN THE SY)MIPOSIUMS The questions contained in the different Symposiums, together with the *::es on which their answers will be found are: PAGES I —VALUE OF STANDARD BREDS vo 12-15 Q. 1. What was the highest cash price you ever paid for a single specimen of standard-bred fowl? What was the highest price ever paid by you for two speciniens? For three? For more than three on one order, stating number bought, and price paid? Q. 2. What was the highest cash price you ever paid for standard-bred eggs for hatching, stating number and price? Q. 3. What was the highest cash price you ever received for a single specimen of standard-bred fowl? Q. 4. Why were you able to obtain the above named prices, i. e., what special merit did the specimen possess? (Note: ..if it had received a high score, state score, tell by whom scored, also where and when. If it had won prizes, state where and when. Q. 5. Please state highest average price you ever received for any three standard-bred fowls of exhibition quality, sold by you since you have been in the poultry business. Q. 6. Please state highest average price you ever re- ceived for any five standard-bred fowls of exhibition quality, sold by you since you have been in the poultry business. Q. 7. Please state highest average price you ever re- ceived for any ten standard-bred fowls of exhibition quality, sold by you since you have been in the poultry business. Q. .8. Please state highest average price you ever re- -ceived for any twenty-five standard-bred fowls of exhibition quality, sold by you since you have been in the poultry business. II—STARTING IN THE BUSINESS 16-51 Suppose you possessed your present knowledge of the poultry business and were about to begin again: Q. 9. Would you buy eggs or fowls with which to start? Q. 10. What would be your reason? Q. 11. What course would you advise for the farmer who wishes to improve his flock of mongrels by the addition of pure- bred blood with the object of raising better poultry for market? Q. 12. What course for the farmer who wishes to raise and sell fancy poultry as well as poultry for market? Q. 13. What course for the beginner with ample funds who wishes to keep a limited number of fine fowls and breed exhibition specimens? bk: @. 14. What course for the beginner without much money to invest who wishes to go into the fancy poultry business? Q. 15. What course for the beginner with ample funds who wishes to establish a large business in fancy and market poultry? PAGES Q. 16. What course for the beginner with moderate means w'% wishes to establish a large business in fancy and market p-» try? Q. 1. With your present knowledge and experience, if about to begin again, which breed or variety would you select if ycu were going into fancy poultry? @. 18. What would be your reasons for this choice? Q. 19. Which variety would you select if you were going to embark in market poultry raising? Q. 20. Your reason for this selection? Q. 21. If you wished to combine both fancy and market poultry raising, what breed or varieties would you select? Q. 22. Your reasons for this choice? III—POULTRY HOUSE SYMPOSIUM 60-67 Q. 23. What style of house do you prefer, as a fancier, for breeding stock? . Q@. 24. What style of house for young stock? Q. 25. Do you favor the colony plan for housing young stock? ‘ Q. 26. If so, what style of colony house do you use? IV—THE MATURE FOWLS 87-94 Q. 27. What do you feed your breeding stock? @. 28. How do you feed adult stock, also how often? V—INCUBATION AND BROODING 108-117 Q@. 29. If you use incubators, what proportion of all the chicks you hatch each season do you hatch artificially and about what per cent of the whole by the natural method? Q. 30. If you use brooders, how many newly-hatched chicks do you place in each brooder? Q. 31. What do you feed little chicks? Q. 32. How do you feed chicks, also how often? VI—SUCCESSFUL CHICK GROWING 128-140 Q. 33. How many head of growing stock do you house and yard together? Q. 34. At what age do you separate the sexes? Q. 35. Do you find it advisable, later on, to separate the cockerels? Q. 36. If so, what method do you follow? Q. 37. What do you feed growing stock? Q. 38. How do you feed growing stock, also how often? CONTRIBUTORS TO THE SYMPOSIUMS The numerals after the contributor’s name designate the symposiums that are answered; the figures refer to the pages on which each set of the contributor’s answers will be found. II-37; ITI-62; IV-89; V-116; VI-138 II-44; V-136 II-30; III-66; IV-88; V-113; VI-134 III-64; IV-94; V-110; VI-132 II-42; ITI-64; IV-90; V-116; VI-139 II-40; III-63; IV-90; V-114; VI-136 II-18; III-61; IV-91; V-110; VI-132 Arnold, Aug. D-............ Baker, Benj. H........... Barrows, Geo. A.........--- Benedict, H. E pa Bennett, Dr. O. P__.... Bie, Geo, H............-.- Blanchard, H. J__-........ Bouck, A. Goo c-cen III-67; IV-91; V-117; VI-139 Bradley Bros-................ I-39; III-65; IV-89; V-109; VI-131 Bradshaw, Harmon___..I-15; I-34; III-66; IV-89; V-114; VI-136 Bricault, C_.....-.-..-. II-44; III-64; IV-93; V-117; VI-139 Brown, G. W..........------ I-27; I11-65; IV-88; V-112; VI-134 Buffington, R. G...... 11-29; III-61; IV-92; V-112; VI-133 Bywaters, Wm. W........ I-21; III-63; IV-93; V-116; VI-138 Candee, W. B___............ Crandall, R. H___......... Curtiss, W. R. & Co..... Davis, W. L., (Willow Brook Farm)......... 1-14; Dikeman, Albert F_..... Doane, J. Ho. 1-13; Duston, Arthur G......... 1-12; Felch, I. Ko... Fike, H. How. Fishel, J. C. & Son........1-13; 1-14; Fishel, U. R-_........ Fogg, N. V_u----------- Gradner & Dunning......1-13; .-I-13; Graves, W. R Hainline, Gus L---........ Ham, Frank D_--.......... Hand, Mrs. H. W.......... Harris, W. 8---........!..-.. Hawkins, A. C_-............ 1-14; Hettich, John--..... om, Holterman, W. D......... Humiston, Dr. Wm. Jackson, J. H---...........- Jefferson, J. Li.....-..-..- Jones, Mrs. Chas Knapp, Edw----...........- I-15; Leach, Mrs. Tilla_-........ TABLE OF CONTENTS—Continued II-29; ITI-61; IV-88; V-112; VI-133 II-36; II1-67; V-115; VI-137 11-24; III-61; IV-92; V-112; VI-133 TI-23; III-61; IV-94; V-109; VI-130 TI-28; I1I-60; IV-92; V-112; VI-134 IJ-46; III-64; IV-92; V-109; VI-131 TI-50; ITI-62; IV-94; V-117; VI-139 1-12; IJ-17; III-60; V-112 II-30; ITI-66; IV-88; V-113; VI-134 II-24; I1I-60; IV-92; V-111; VI-133 TI-22; ITI-62; IV-92; V-111; VI-133 TI-26; III-65; IV-88; V-112; VI-134 I-21; I-63; [V-93; V-116; VI-138 TI-48; III-67; IV-94; V-109; VI-130 II-31; I-66; IV-88; V-113; VI-135 III-63; IV-93; V-114; VI-136 II-35; I1I-66; IV-89; V-114; VI-136 II-21; III-63; IV-90; V-114; VI-137 I1-20; ITI-60; IV-88; V-111; VI-133 I- 13 II-40; III-64; IV-93; V-110; VI-131 11-27; I1I-65; IV-88; V-112; VI-134 II- 32 IJ-25; T1I-61; IV-92; V-112; VI-133 II-31; IT1-66; IV-88; V-113; VI-134 _ ° JL-85; IV-93; V-114; VI-136 II-19; ITI-62; IV-90; V-110; VI-132 II-36; III-60; IV-89; V-115; VI-138 TI-39; ITI-63; IV-89; V-114; VI-136 Ling, Edw. E_-.............. Macomber, J. C_........ McGrann, Frank McQuilliande, S. J___.... Oberndorf, A_............-.- Palmer, D. F. & Son__. Pape, Chas. G_............. Parks, J. W....------ Rice, Irving F-........... 38 Richardson, F. W......... Rigg, Thos. F_--.........-.. Robinson, Wm. H_.-..... Rosedale Poultry Farm Shepherd, F. C_-_-.......... Skinner, O. E___............ Tarbox, A. & E_ 1-12; Tibbets, H...2.........-..- Thompson, E. B...........- Thompson, J. T__.......... Todd, A. BL-.............- Vass, Chas, E___........ Wehrmeyer, F. J Welles, C. H____.- Wilber Bros...............-..- Wild, Otto O-.......2....-. Williams, J. M. & Co_...I-14; Wood, G. Monroe.......... Wyckoff, C. He... INDEPENDENT ARTICLES PAGE American Poultry Industry _ 0 OT Brahmas as Utility and Exhibition Fowl; Light__.......... 68 Breeding Stock; Conditioning 95 Broiler Raising; Successful 150 ‘Broilers and Capons; Roasters. ............2-2-22--2--22:2c1e---s0ceeeeeeteees 147 Brooding House; Model 124 Caponizing—How to Do It. 154 Capons; Economy of 152 Capons; Roasters, Broilers and__.......-2---..-.---2.eeeeeee eee 147 Geese. Chick Rearing; Natural and Artificial; Successful . 118 Chicks; Incubating and Rearing. _._.. eee 121 Cochins; Beautiful Buff... 2.2.2 eee eeepc 70 . Colony Houses; Cheap 59 ' Diseases; Prevention of Poultry .......22-- 22. eeee 175 Dorkings; Silver Gray. 79 Dressing Market Poultry; Killing and__..... 22. 163 “Drying and Fluffing” Pen_.........2-022.-220-22---2--2- eee eee 105 Duck Growing; Successful 2 170 Dueks and Geese; Turkeys__--.....-..-------- 167 Ducks: Imperial: Pektitsccc..c20.2.5 eerie e neice 84 Eggs; How to Get Hatchable.... eee 103 Eggs; Market Poultry and___...... 158 Fall and Winter Work-.........-..--..-... -- 96 Foods; Vegetable or Green _-- 2-2 eee 100 Fresh-Air House Indorsed 56 Fresh-Air Poultry Houses 53 84 Geese; Toulouse- 173 Geese; Turkeys, Ducks and 167 Hot Weather Problems-_-_........-....-..-.-.----------- 95 House; Hammonton Hot-Water Pipe System; Brooding--.... 127 House; Model Brooding- 124. 122 House; Modern Incubator II-25; III- 65; V1-134 11-43; III-63; IV-93; V-116; VI-138 11-47; ILI-64; IV-93; V-110; VI-131 II-51; III-67; IV-94; V1-140 11-38; III-63; IV-93; V-116; VI-138 II-33; III-66; IV-92; V-118; V1-135 II-33; I[V-92; V-113; VI-135 II-45; II1-62; IV-94; V-109; VI-131 II-34; III-66; IV-89; V-114; VI-136 I- 15 11-50; III-67; IV-91; V-117; VI-140 II-48; I1I-67; IV-91; V-111; VI-132 II-18; III-61; IV-88; V-112; VI-133 TI-30; III-66; IV-92; V-113; VI-135 II-40; I1I-63; IV-90; V-114; VI-136 11-37; III-62; IV-89; V-116; VI-138 11-41; 11-61; IV-90; V-115; VI-137 II-48; II1-67; IV-91; V-111; VI-132 II- 39 II-38; III-63; IV-89; V-116; VI-138 I1-49; IIJ-67; IV-91; V-117; VI-140 II-41; I11-65; IV-90; V-110; VI-132 II-28; 11-65; IV-92; V-111; VI-132 II-42; III-64; IV-90; V-116; VI-139 11-20; I-63; IV-89; V-110; VI-131 II-22; 111-61; IV-91; V-109; VI-130 II-35; IlI-67; IV-93; V-115; VI-137 I-33; III-66; I1V-93; V-115; VI-137 II-32; IV-89; V-113; VI-135 11-49; III-67; IV-94; V-117; VI-140 PAGE - Houses; Cheap Colony. 59 Houses; Fresh-Air Poultry 53 Incubating and Rearing Chicks 121 Incubator House; Modern-......_---2.-22..-------2-22--0--eeeeeeeeenes 122 TCR UUCCORY Soc cccec nese eee secre ane a ne estos 5 Killing and Dressing Market Poultry____....-.-..---.-----------—-- 163 Daneshanss Blake secre sceceeceeeecev a serves eter eveceeeew nee eeeey 69 « Leghorns; Brown 81 Leghorns; Buff 82 Leghorns; White 79 Market Poultry and Eggs 158 Market Poultry; Killing and Dressing--............2.2.0 163 Minorcas; Profitable Black. 82 Orpingtonss: Buflscverrs.c tensed ta einen mene se aa os 78 Plymouth Rocks; Barred 71 Plymouth Rocks; Buff 74 Plymouth Rocks; White 73 Poultry and Eggs; Market__. eee eee eee 158 Poultry Culture; Secret of Success in__-............ 141 dees: in 7 Poultry Industry; American Poultry Plant; The son Rhode Island Reds_..._........-.--22-2-2-2-22---2---e-eeceeecceeeoneeceeteneeeeeeee Roasters, Broilers and Capons LG CHS: Bi Ge oe ie sh A eco ves eae Gp ie cee Standard Varieties; Leading Toulouse Geese_-- Trap-Nests; In Favor of ie. nc:.00.c-csceeec se eceseect ee tceccet eee cectnces 101 Turkeys 86 Turkeys, Ducks and Geese__—.....-.---------------eee-eeeeee eee eee 167 Vegetable or Green Foods... 22.2.2 cttteeteetee eter 100 Wyandottes, Buff 77 Wyandottes, Silwer_ wa... 2.2. eeseeeeeee eee cece tees va UE Wyandottes, White... 2-2 eee eee ces teeee cee 75 CHAPTER ONE AMERICAN POULTRY INDUSTRY “MAGNITUDE OF THE POULTRY BUSINESS UNCLE ‘SAM’S HENS PRODUCE FIVE HUNDRED MILLION DOLLARS WORTH OF POULTRY AND EGGS ANNUALLY—SURPRISING CONSUMPTION IN LARGE EAST- ERN CITIES—NO DANGER OF OVERPRODUCTION—BETTER OPPORTUNI- TIES NOW FOR SUCCESSFUL outs KEEPING THAN EVER BEFORE N THE report of the Secretary of Agriculture for 1905 the farm value of the poultry and egg crop of the United States is estimated at about $500,- 000,000. annually, while the total egg production of American hens is approximately 20,000,000,000 of eggs a year. It is difficult for the human mind to appreciate these big figures, they are really so far beyond our usual mental horizon. Stop a bit and think, five hundred million dollars is just about the annual value of the entire United States wheat crop. If reduced to one dollar greenbacks it would, if the bills were placed end to end, reach twice around the world at the equator and enough left over to paper the mail route between New York City and the Falkland Islands. Then consider that gigantic egg crop. It is probable that statistics have not told the whole story by more than half, for the Statistical Bureau deals only with the farmer’s hens, but even so the figures given are tremendous. Twenty billions of eggs is easy to write or say but what does it mean to you? It means that if those eggs, the yield of United States farmer’s hens for one year, were placed end to end they would go around the earth at the equator thirty times and leave enough over to reach from New York City via San Francisco to Yokohama, Japan and thence to Pekin, China, At eight eggs to the pound the annual egg crop would reach the surprising weight of 1,250,- 000 tons of eggs. Packed in cases of thirty dozen each and these egg cases placed closely together on a square of land con- taining one acre, completely filling it, they would make a solid column 4,829 feet high or 629 feet higher than Mt. Vesuvius. STRICTLY FRESH EGGS IN DEMAND Liability of the poultry business being overdone you may say after reading the above. Not a bit of it. Prices of eggs have been high and growing steadily higher during the past several years. Market poultry, live and dressed, commands appreciably better prices now than heretofore. The supply of the really good article in both poultry meat and eggs falls far short of the demand. In our large cities, during the winter months strictly fresh nearby eggs reach what are really prohibi- tive prices, except for the rich, and it is owing to the scarcity of the product that prices are so high. Fifty, sixty and even | seventy-five cents a dozen at retail is no uncommon figure for best quality, fresh, nearby, fancy table eggs in our biggest and best Eastern city markets in,the winter season. Even “case eggs’, those shipped in from a distance, bring good returns the season through. We append herewith a table of wholesale prices of western eggs in New York market for the year 1905. Remember that these are not consumers’ prices but prices paid by dealers who buy eggs in carload lots. These western eggs are good quality fresh eggs shipped from a distance but never reach as high a figure as the nearby “fancy fresh laid” or “‘hennery eggs.” WHOLESALE PRICES OF WESTERN EGGS IN NEW YORK MARKET FOR THE YEAR 1905 Highest and Lowest Quotations MONTHS ee oo for Western Fresh Firsts at Ss Market Prices per Dozen January 159,821 25 to 30¢ February 83,324 30 to 35¢ Mareh 411,65 16 to 35¢ April 584,289 174 to 18¢ ay 551,255 17 to 18¢ une 427,136 15% to 17¢ July 314,097 153 to 18¢ August ‘ 280,482 174 to 2le September 258,548 20 to 2l1e October 207,513 20 to 25¢ November 166,292 24 to 30c December 137,209 26 to 30c¢ 1 Total receipts: 3,581,631 cases The average price of eggs for the year was 22 cents, It will be noted that the heaviest receipts were during March, April, May and June, the period of lowest prices and also of greatest production, but at no time during this period of increased consumption did the prices fall below a profit making figure. 7 What becomes of all the eggs? Those that go through the regular market channels are easily traced, but there are millions of dozens consumed by families who grow their own eggs and poultry and millions more that are used for hatching purposes; of these it is not possible to take account or even make a reasonable estimate as to numbers consumed. WHERE THE EGGS GO The United States has a population of about eighty millioris, and based on this the total consumption of eggs for the entire United States is at the present time a little more than half an egg daily for each person, assuming that the entire egg product of the whole country is used for domestic culinary purposes. As a matter of fact, however, a very large percentage of eggs, the exact amount not being determinable, are used for supplying the needs of factories, tanneries, bakeries and other trades, so that the actual consumption of eggs per capita for domestic pur- poses in the United States must be very much less than is shown by these figures. To have the whole country adopt the same average per capita consumption of eggs as New York City would require about a 50 per cent increase over the present propor- tions of our egg industry, making no allowance for increase in population. : CONSUMPTION IN LARGE EASTERN CITIES Our largest market, New York City, which has a population of about 3,600,000 reports receipts during the year 1905 of SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEPING 3,591,631 cases of eggs. Estimated at 30 dozens to the case this would be 107,748,930 dozens. Many thousands of dozens of eggs were undoubtedly con- sumed in Greater New York which do not appear in this record, and these should more than offset any of the reported number which may have been shipped out of the city. While it is not possible to get figures showing the actual consumption of eggs in Greater New York because of the large number of unreported shipments which must necessari- ly reach so large a city, and be- cause of the great variety of uses to which eggs are put in the trades and for which no accurate data are procurable, the following figures will prove interesting although dealing mainly with averages. ~ . The estimated population of, New York is 3,600,000, while the average daily receipts based on the above figures are 3,532,567 eggs, or an average consumption of nearly one egg per day for each inhabitant of Greater New York. Consuming as it did over 1,289,387,160 eggs in the year, Greater New York used practically 64 per cent. of all the eggs produced in the United States during the year 1905. Figures for the City of Boston, Mass., with its population of 600,- 000, for the same year show total receipts of 1,393,456 cases, or prac- tically an average daily consump- tion of 2} eggs for each inhabitant. As shown by these statistics Boston takes 24 per cent. of the total num- ber of eggs produced in the United States. FARMERS BENEFITTED In writing on the ‘Causes Af- fecting Farm Values’, Mr. George E K. Holmes of the U. 8. Bureau of 3 Statistics, says of the poultry in- 5 dustry: “Tt may seem a matter of small consequence to mention poultry and eggs as an instance (referring to the causes of improved financial condi- tion of our farmers), but it should be remembered that the values of these products now reach an annual figure of half a billion dollars or more, or an amount about equal to the value of the wheat crop. The EGGS PRODVCED THE BIRD HE more eggs than have been produced. The exports are not worth mentioning. Apparently there is no limit to the consumption of fresh eggs at a moderate price.” Not long ago when talking with a poultryman who makes a business of shipping eggs to market, we asked him what was the lowest: price he could afford to sell eggs at and still make a reasonable profit. He lives about one hundred miles from his market and makes two or three shipments a week. He assured us that he could produce eggs to sell at 12 cents a dozen delivered _20,000,00.0,000 - BY HENS IN UNITED STATES | Uncle Sam’s Hens Produce enough Eggs each Year to make a price of eggs has been high and Belt for the Earth at the Equator 30 Eggs wide if placed end for growing higher for several years, end, and enough to spare to make a line of Eggs from New York because consumers have wanted City to Pekin, China, via San Francisco. in his market, and still make a profit that would be satisfactory ‘to him. THE POULTRY MARKET So far we have concerned ourselves with eggs alone, but every egg farmer must at regular periods renew his stock of laying pullets and dispose of a proportion of his adult stock, and if he raises the chickens himself he will also have a considerable num- ber of surplus male birds to dispose of. Lest he should become alarmed concerning the disposition of surplus birds, male and female, it may make his mind easier to know that dur- ing the past year (1906) prices of live poultry taking the country as a whole have been maintained higher and more steady than ever before. At the time of present writing (Sep- tember) roasting chickens are sell- ing alive at wholesale in the East at from 16 to 20 cents a pound, while old fowls range from 12 to 15 cents, according to quality. The figures for New York City during the past year show a most surprising consumption of live poul- try. During the year 1905, 2,073 as having been received, the highest number received in any one month “being in October, 271 carloads, the lowest in February, 105 carloads. The average wholesale price for live fowls for the year was 134 cents per pound. These figures mean that New York City consumes an aver- age of about 53 carloads of 16,000 pounds each of live poultry per —~ The day. ) New York State is credited , with having produced during the year 1905—74,516,028 dozens of eggs, not enough by nearly 33,000,- 000 dozens to supply New York City alone. It would require prac- tically all of the total egg product of the states of Maine, Vermont and Connecticut, added to the en- tire egg production of New York State to supply New York City. According to the latest figures that we have been able to obtain the egg production of the states mentioned was estimated for the year 1905 at,—Maine, 15,964,980 dozens; Ver- mont, 7,526,256 dozens, and Con- necticut, 9,551,316 dozens. Massachusetts is credited with an egg production for 1905 of 15,514,356 dozens, not enough by over 26,000,000 dozens to supply the city of Boston only. Judging from the figures given herein and the fact that the population of the United States is increasing with surprising rapidity, the rate of increase between 1890 and 1900 having been shown to be nearly 22 per cent, there is little probability, for the present at least, of the supply even equaling the demand, EVERY YEAR. Rater ae) eh LIKES BEST carloads of live poultry are reported’ AMERICAN POULTRY INDUSTRY and this should calm the tremors of those who fear overpro- duction. GROWTH OF THE MARKET The growth of the modern “market,’’ as an institution, is an interesting study. It has been identical with the develop- ment of the great centers of population called cities. During the past quarter of a century there has been a somewhat alarming concentration of population in these centers, for we are con- ‘fronted with a serious social problem when we contemplate the helplessness of these collections of thousands, tens of thousands and hundreds of thousands of people within an area that could not possibly feed a few hundred of them if they were to become dependent solely on the corporate limits of the different cities. Shut off the food supply from their numerous markets only forty-eight to ninety-six hours and they would become panic- stricken. To deny them coal is bad enough, but if they were deprived of their food supply even for a few hours, distress would be common, bringing terror to the hearts of millions. Nothing now in sight gives any promise of retarding the concentration of the people into cities, either in this hemisphere or in the old world. Increase of population and its concentra- tion in cities involves the future and indicates the possibilities of the poultry business on practical lines. To conclude that population will increase and that cities will grow in size, is to concede that the market for poultry and eggs is to be a permanent affair that will increase with the population and grow with the cities. AN AGE OF SPECIALIZING Naturally, as poultry production became a distinct and ‘ important industry, it was divided into branches representing special lines of effort. Mankind had entered upon an age of specialties and the poultry industry did not prove an exception. First, the growers of poultry were merely poultry keepers; now we have fanciers, duck growers, egg farmers, broiler raisers, etc. The development of these branches has been rapid, but not un- naturally so. It was natural that this development should re- sult from special attention, special effort and singleness of pur- pose. The practical result has been that we now have thou- sands of fanciers, including hundreds of specialty breeders, and more than one hundred separate and distinct varieties; where twenty-five and thirty years ago the common puddleduck, weighing three to four pounds, was the best this country pro- duced, we now have the Imperial Pekin, weighing ten pounds to the pair at ten weeks old, and ten to fourteen pounds each as adults, and have numerous “ranchers” who produce from five to fifty thousand ducklings annually and find for them a ready and profitable market; where three or four decades ago a flock of one hundred or more hens was a curiosity and the egg basket was seldom larger than a man’s hat, we now h«ve egg farms that each carry five, six and seven thousand laying hens, and the eggs are gathered in bushel baskets, five to ten baskets being required to gather the average daily yield, and when only a few years ago broilers, squab broilers, roasters, winter chickens and capons were strange words because seldom used, they are now common expressions, while tons upon tons of expertly produced poultry meat are consumed daily, and we have made only a fair start. The fancier, first and last, despite his “fuss” and “feathers,” has been our good friend. What we have wanted, and asked for, he has supplied. We asked for a ‘‘general purpose” fowl, and he gave us the Plymouth Rocks. We asked for more eggs, and he has given us the “200-eggs per year hen” of several varieties. We asked for better squab-broilers, broilers and roasters, and he gave us the Wyandotte. We asked for more -cannot fail to be desirable. meat and this demand was soon supplied by increasing the weights of the Asiatics, by deepening the keels of Pekin ducks and the production of Mammoth Bronze Turkeys and Toulouse geese that tip the scales at twenty to forty pounds each—too large, by half, for the average family or bake-oven. AS AN INDEPENDENT BUSINESS Admittedly our equipment of tools at present is by no means complete and we have mastered only the first principles of the production of poultry and eggs in large quantities as an independent enterprise. ‘The improvement of the utility breeds, the invention of popular sized, portable incubators and brooders and the designing of suitable brooding houses have given us a fair start, and we may look forward with confidence that great progress will be made during the next few years. No man can safely set a limit to what will be accomplished in this direction within the next decade. Ten years ago the poultry business in this country, as an independent business, was insignificant as compared with present achievements, but there is good reason to believe that the next ten years will show still greater progress. It cannot well be otherwise. Where one man was interested in the problem and trying to achieve results ten years ago, one hundred or more are now employed at the same task. These later comers include the men with years of experience who now are profiting by their reverses and successes, and the outcome Today America leads the world in the knowledge and employment of successful methods of poultry production on a large scale, and probably it will maintain this position. Other countries are adopting our methods, but we have secured a lead that will be hard to overcome. The financial risk is being eliminated from the business until it is not greater now than that involved in other business enterprises, and men of means and brains are taking up the work in rapidly increasing numbers. Nevertheless, it still remains a fact that nine out of ten, if not nineteen out of twenty of the“average well-informed men of this and other foremost poultry growing countries have but slight conception of what actually is taking place in the poultry world. So much the better for those of us who have become interested in the subject, who have a correct idea of its importance and recognize the unmistakable signs of its rapid development and splendid possibilities. Snug fortunes are being made at the present time in different branches of the poultry business where ten and twenty years ago this would have been utterly impossible, and today is but a promise of the superior conditions that will exist five, ten and twenty years hence. GOVERNMENT HAS BECOME INTERESTED No one realizes the truth of the foregoing more than the United States government and the various state governments. This came about largely as a result of the facts disclosed by the census returns of 1880 and 1890. The Bureau of Animal In- dustry took up the question eight or ten years ago and now regularly issues valuable bulletins for free distribution, giving detailed instruction and advice for use in the production of an increased amount of better poultry and the obtaining of a larger egg yield per hen. Probably twenty states of the Union are now conducting poultry plants on their state experiment stations in connection with the state agricultural colleges. At half a dozen or more of these colleges regular poultry classes have been instituted, the members ranging from twenty to thirty each term and including, as students, men and women who are above the average in intelligence, some of them being well educated. These students, as graduates, are finding positions as managers of poultry plants, as lecturers at Farmers’ Institutes, or are entering the business themselves. Numerous other public and semi-public institutions, are conducting poultry plants and in- SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEPING structing the students or inmates in practical poultry work, with a view to qualifying them for earning their living and taking up poultry production as a business, either in the employ of others, or independently. All this is “something new under the sun,” and clearly points to a bright future for the poultry industry in its several branches. STANDARD-BRED POULTRY Where 30 or 40 years ago poultry exhibitions were seldom heard of, now they are common. In the neighborhood of five hundred winter shows are held annually at the present time, while thoroughbred, or standard-bred poultry is exhibited every summer and fall at not less than a thousand state, district and county fairs, the exhibits ranging from a few specimens in an open shed to three or four thousand choice birds shown in uni- form coops and housed in buildings, each costing $10,000. to $25,000. that have been built by the fair associations, often at state expense, expressly for poultry. Long lists of cash pre- miums are offered, some of the state fair associations appro- priating one, two and three thousand dollars each for this pur- pose, while of late years the great winter poultry exhibitions, like those held regularly in Boston, New York, Philadelphia and Chicago, have offered as much as five and six thousand dollars in cash premiums at a single show, besides nearly equal amounts in medals, prize cups and other valuable trophies. THE POULTRY PRESS Not one whit less remarkable and important than the fore- going has’ been the development of the poultry press. Today more papers in the United States are devoted exclusively to poultry than to any other branch of live stock; in fact, we believe there are more poultry papers than there are horse, cattle, sheep and swine papers taken together. We may be mistaken in this, but we do not believe we are. There are between sixty and seventy poultry papers and we doubt if there are as many other exclusively live stock papers all told. Furthermore, nearly every farm paper, in fact, practically every one of them that has a large circulation, now conducts a regular poultry department, giving it, as a rule, as much space and attention as are given to gattle, horses, sheep or swine. There is no need to apologize, at this time, and under present conditions, for being interested in poultry, or for being in the poultry business. DEVELOPMENT OF LARGE PLANTS Visible signs of the rapid development and present impor- tance of the poultry business are to be met on every hand, es- pecially in the states east of the Mississippi river, where the population is greatest. The farther east one goes the more numerous become the poultry plants, small and large. New England has been called “the cradle of the poultry business’ in this country, and for good reason. Massachusetts and Rhode Island probably lead the Union in the production of poultry, area considered, but New York, New Jersey, Connecticut, eastern Pennsylvania and Ohio are following closely, while the great agricultural states of the Mississippi valley, notably Illinois, Iowa, Missouri and eastern Kansas and Nebraska, are producing vast quantities of poultry and eggs, as shown by the census returns of 1890 and 1900. These large and fertile agricultural states have the credit of producing more poultry and eggs than the eastern states, but this is not true in proportion to area. Further more, in the Mississippi basin the immense quantities of poultry and eggs are produced mostly in the old-fashioned way, on the ordinary farm by the farmer’s wife and children, while farther east numerous poultry plants have sprung up whereon the pro- duction of poultry and eggs is steadily being reduced to a science. 10 Ten and fifteen years ago one had to travel far to find half a dozen successful poultry plants that were being conducted on independent lines, while now two or three dozen of them can be visited in a week’s journey if one knows where to go. Travelers riding by train or electric car through the New England states are prone to remark that about every fourth farmer or villager seems to be in the poultry business, for on either side of the “right of way” are to be seen poultry plants varying from two or three small houses to a dozen long ones built on the continu- ous-house plan, each house being one, two or three hundred feet long, with attractive parks filled with hundreds of standard-bred White Wyandottes, White Leghorns, Plymouth Rocks, Brahmas, or first crosses. ; Even persons who consider themselves well posted are frequently surprised to learn of some extra large plant that has sprung up unheralded and become an established success before its existence was discovered by the poultry papers or the writers on poultry topics. Men of perseverance started them on a small scale and added to them little by little, thus building up large and profitable businesses on a safe and solid basis. With the specializing of the work of poultry production, the dividing of the business into branches and the development of large specialty plants, there has come a natural and highly im- portant improvement in the quality of the product. Twenty to thirty years ago no one had heard of “green ducks,” meaning ducklings eight to twelve weeks old that have been specially fed, producing a most toothsome morsel, while now thousands of tons of them are marketed in the eastern cities every spring and summer. On Long Island upwards of a hundred thousand of these ducklings are produced within a radius of ten miles ‘of the little village of Speonk. The Spring Lake Poultry Co., C. A. Stouffer, president, Harrisburg, Pa., produces forty-five to sixty thousand ducklings each season, besides several thousand broil- ers, and Messrs. Weber Bros., of Wrentham, Mass., now have an‘ annual output of over forty-five thousand ducklings. Broiler plants are in successful operation, with capacities ranging from teri to twenty-five thousand broilers per. season; ‘winter chick- ens,” or roasters, are produced by the ton in different sections of New England, New York, New Jersey, eastern Pennsylvania and Maryland, and capons, or ‘‘Philadelphia chickens,” as they were originally called, are being produced in rapidly increasing quantities in New Jersey, New England and the middle west. Chicago is now a reliable capon market, and the poultrymen and farmers of Illinois, Michigan, Wisconsin, Iowa and Missouri are turning their attention more and more to the production of capons. NOW HAVE BETTER TOOLS While we are giving credit to the fanciers for increasing the number of varieties and developing the utility as well as the beauty points of the more popular breeds, while we are praising the poultry press and acknowledging the importance of poultry exhibitions, let us not overlook the fact that the improvement in the tools used by the poultryman has been invaluable to him in his work and progress. Poultry on a large scale, while not im- possible without the use of popular-sized incubators and re- liable brooding apparatus, is, nevertheless, impracticable, for if the hen has to be relied on to do the hatching she will not sit until she gets ready, and then not in sufficient numbers to give the business the necessary elements of certainty and proper management, Worse still, if the hen had to be relied on to brood the chicks or ducklings, her instinctive habits and erratic conduct would soon limit the ambitious poultryman to a com- paratively small plant and would make his life a burden to him on account of numerous uncertainties. The great duck ranches. are proof positive of this general statement. They do not use as much as one hen for incubating. They use incubators ex- AMERICAN POULTRY INDUSTRY clusively for hatching. Nor do they use a hen for brooding— not one. Their incubator cellars and brooding houses are built on the latest patterns and are as reliable, generally speaking, as an eight-day clock. They have far less trouble with their incubators and brooding apparatus than they have to make sure that the vigor and stamina of their stock are maintained. In- breeding and close confinement are decidely more threatening than any dangers that arise from the incubating and brooding apparatus. Much credit is due the incubator inventors and manufacturers of the country (this is especially true of America) for keeping pace with the demands of the progressive poultry- men who desired to establish large plants and could not have done so were it not for the improvement in the apparatus they must use. Practically all of the large egg farms and broiler plants now use incubators and employ brooding houses for rearing the chicks. Hen’s eggs hatch in incubators even better than duck’s eggs, and numerous plants are in operation that require ten to twenty-five thousand eggs, including hen’s and duck’s eggs, every thirty days, in order to fill the machines. There are more than fifty poultry plants doing business in this country at the present time that use enough incubators to require five to thirty thousand eggs every three or four weeks. These plants could not exist if they had to depend on the hen-method of hatching PORTABLE COLONY HOUSE An English type of portable colony house recommended by Prof. Edward Brown, of Reading College. and raising chicks. An incubator is ready for work whenever fertile eggs can be obtained. It is far easier to induce hens to lay out of season than to persuade them to sit before they want to. They will lay long before they want to. They will lay long before they become broody, and by breeding in line for egg pro- duction we now have flocks of hens that average one hundred and fifty to two hundred eggs per year, where, according to the census returns of 1890 and 1900 the average American hen lays less than one hundred eggs per year. Estimate for yourself the great addition there will be to the national wealth of this and other countries when the average egg yield of all hens that are kept for laying purpose is increased fifty to seventy-five eggs per annum. Millions of dozens of eggs are now produced and sold so readily that they are like wheat in the granary or cash in the bank; once the work of the methodical poultryman be- 11 comes the common property of the poultry keepers of the farm and village, then the annual egg production of the nation will be increased 25 to 75 per cent and the national wealth will be increased in this important extent. The real importance of this national opportunity lies beyond our comprehension, for figures, when they mount into millions, are baffling, and this increase of the egg yield is a problem of that kind. IMPROVED POULTRY PRODUCTS IN DEMAND Increase of wealth and population has resulted in a steadily increasing demand for the finest products of the poultryman’s art. Wealthy famlies, fashionable clubs, leading hotels and high-class restaurants now compete for the guarantéed strictly fresh eggs and gilt-edged dressed poultry of the expert and dependable poultryman almost regardless of price, in fact, they will pay what they have to pay in order to get what they want, and they want the very best that can be produced, so that’ now we have not only broilers weighing one pound to two pounds each, but “squab” broilers weighing only three-fourths of a pound to a pound, and have roasters weighing five pounds each, that readily bring twenty to thirty cents per pound; also green ducklings that start early in April at thirty to thirty-five cents per pound and range down to twelve cents late in August when the season closes. Strictly fresh eggs guaranteed bring a premium of five to ten cents per dozen above current prices. Expert poultry- men tag of stamp their specially choice products, wrap them neatly in tissue paper, tie them with dainty ribbons and get “a, price and a half” for them, as compared with the ordinary grade of stock placed on sale; and the “professional” egg-farmer stamps his eggs with the dates on which they were laid, with the name of his farm, or with his initials, puts these eggs in one- dozen or two-dozen pasteboard boxes, guarantees them ‘‘strictly fresh” and obtains a satisfactory reward for his enterprise. Despite the greatly increased production, the prices of poultry and eggs have been higher the last year or two than ever before in the history of the industry. Increased wealth and population account for this, for it is a fact that in the eastern states where the production of poultry and eggs is greatest, the prices invariably range from fifty to one hundred per cent higher than they do in the great agticultural districts, where the popu- lation is much less per square mile and the cities are smaller. Only a few years ago the man who went into the poultry business, or talked of going into it, was considered a crank, while incubators were looked on as fakes, or as a fad. Every year, recently, has seen the business of poultry production steadily improve, reaching a higher plane and resting on a more substantial basis, while the manufacture of goods for poultry- men, including practical, reliable incubators and brooders, handy time, labor and money-saving appliances and helpful poultry supplies of various kinds has become a permanent and substan- tial business. The men who are in the poultry business today, or who contemplate taking it up as a means to a livelihood, un- questionably have before them opportunities that will tax their enterprise and call in play all the ability and energy at their command. The poultry business, in all its important branches is at present ‘‘a man’s business,’’ and we are pleased to observe that men of ability and of means are “taking hold” in sufficient numbers. If these words should chance to be read ten or twenty years hence, the middle-aged reader, if endowed with a good memory, will give us credit for being a wise prophet, when as a matter of fact we merely have noted a few of the plain “signs of the times” that point out the direction of future achievement and rapid progress. CHAPTER TWO VALUE OF STANDARD BREDS FANCY FOWLS BRING HIGHEST PRICES “FANCY’’ MEANS FOWLS BRED BY EXPERTS TO STANDARD REQUIREMENTS COMBIN- ING BOTH BEAUTY AND UTILITY—SYMPOSIUM BY LEADING SUCCESSFUL BREEDERS H ACTS count, and in this symposium we present facts showing the high prices,—fabulously high when compared with the popular idea of the value of “chickens”,—that are paid from time to time for standard-bred fowls of exhibition quality. Leading successful poultrymen testify herein, concerning prices paid and received by them for first quality exhibition or fancy, breeding fowls. No theory or dreaming here but good solid facts, positive evidence from well known breeders who produced and sold these best specimens of standard-bred poultry. To obtain this evidence we sent out a list of eight questions to twenty old-time patrons of the Reliable Poultry Journal,— men who have a national or international reputation as fanciers, owners, breeders and exhibitors of fine standard-bred, “fancy” poultry. Fifteen of the twenty have favored-us with prompt replies in time for publication, and we are pleased to present them herewith. We quote and number the eight questions asked, the answers thereto are numbered to correspond and are given in condensed form:— THE EIGHT QUESTIONS Q. 1. What was the highest cash price you ever paid for a single specimen of standard-bred fowl? What was the highest price ever paid by you for two specimens? For three? For more than three on one order, stating number bought, and price paid? Q. 2. What was the highest cash price you ever paid for standard-bred eggs for hatching, stating number and price? Q. 3. What was the highest cash price you ever received for a, single specimen of standard-bred fowl? Q. 4. Why were you able to obtain the above named prices, i. e., what special merit did the specimen possess 2 (Note: —if it had received a high score, state score, tell by whom scored, also where and when. If it had won prizes, state where and when.) / Q. 5. Please state highest average price you ever received for any three standard-bred fowls of exhibition quality, sold by you since you have been in the poultry business. Q. 6. Please state highest average price you ever re- ceived for any five standard-bred fowls of exhibition quality, sold by you since you have been in the poultry business. Q. 7. Please state highest average price you ever re- ceived for any ten standard-bred fowls of exhibition quality, sold.by you since you have been in the poultry business. Q. 8. Please state highest average price you ever re- ceived for any twenty-five standard-bred fowls of exhibition quality, sold by you since you have been in the poultry business. A. & E. TARBOX, Yorkville, Ill. BREEDERS AND EXHIBITORS OF SILVER WYANDOTTES EXCLUSIVELY A. 1. Highest price paid for single specimen, $25. For di two, $50. For three, $60. A. 2. $10. for thirty-nine eggs. A. 8. Highest price received for single specimen, $40. A. 4. We were able to obtain prices quoted because these birds were of high exhibition quality. The bird we received the highest price for ($40.) was a cockerel, winner of first prize at Philadelphia. We sold two pullets at $35. each, one won first prize at Chicago, December, 1904; the other won third at Chicago, December, 1904, and won fourth at the St. Louis World’s Fair. We sold one pen to South Africa, consisting of five birds, a male and four females, for $75. This pen won first and Silver Cup at Kansas City, Mo. A. 5. Highest average price received for three, $36.66 each, A. 6. For five, $28. each. A. 8. For twenty-five, $18. each. ARTHUR G. DUSTON, South Framingham, Mass. SPECIALTY BREEDER OF WHITE WYANDOTTES A. land2. Ihave not paid high prices for stock and eggs. I find it cheaper to breed them. A. 3. Highest price received for a single specimen, $150. I have refused higher prices than this, where I did not wish to sell. A. 4. Bird was sold on its merit as described by me, with four pullets. They went to the west and were the highest scoring pen ever shown up to that time, in that city. The buyer lost the females and mated the male to other stock of my strain. That year he sold $900. in stock and eggs from the pen, besides replenishing his stock. A. 5. Highest average price received for three standard- bred fowls, $115. each. A. 6. If to one customer, at one sale, is meant, my answer is, $250. for one pen, four females and one male. This average would be $50. A. 7. I sold from the New York Show, three years ago, two pens of five birds each, for $450. each, or $45. per bird. I have sold ten show birds, mostly males, at an average of $105. each. A. 8. AsI seldom get more than $100. for a bird I would not say that I could take you to my order book and show you twenty-five sales that would go much over $100. each, but if competition becomes much keener and the demand much sharper in Wyandottes, there is no telling where prices will go. J. K. FELCH, Natick, Mass. VETERAN JUDGE AND BREEDER OF BRAHMAS, WHITE AND BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCKS AND WHITE WYANDOTTES A. 1. Highest cash price paid for a single specimen, $50. For five specimens, $225. I have been a breeder and seller, not a buyer. VALUE OF STANDARD BREDS A, 2. I have never bought eggs for this purpose; have preferred to buy fowls. A, 3. Highest cash price received for a single specimen, $100. Have sold thirteen male Brahmas for $100. each; one hen for $55. A. 4. Simply on their merit, as a result of people seeing. them in my yards and buying them to exhibit. I sold four Barred Rock pullets for $30. each, to W. Haven, who showed’ them, won on them and refused $100. for the first prize winner. I scored her at 95 points the day I sold her and again when she was three years old, giving her the same high score. I sold two Light Brahma cockerels, one for $100., the other for $50. H.S. Ball scored the $100. bird at 96 points and the $50. bird at 954 points. A. 5. Have sold several trios for $150. each. I sold the get of one cock bird for an average of $75. each. This flock brought me $1,435. Enough birds were stolen from this flock, so that, at the same average, I would have received $2,235. from the get of that one pen. A. 6. Highest average price received for any five fowls, $250. Remember I have never been an exhibitor. It has been my patrons who have got the highest prices. The year I sold the whole flock at the $75. average per bird, these young birds were entered to win one hundred and one prizes and won eighty- seven out of the one hundred and one. A. 7. Isold a cock and eight females to one purchaser at $158. In those days this was a record price. As before stated, my birds were sold on their merits, early in the season, as a Tule at living prices to those who wanted them for exhibi- tion purposes. : A. 8. The pens have been sold at $50. to $100. for five, as a rule. Sold a pen for $65. that was never beaten. They were shown in Massachusetts, Maryland and Kentucky. The cock won first prize at one show during four years in succession. It has been my policy not to name prizes my patrons have won and I have never advertised to whom my birds were sold, for to do so would be to rob my customers of the prestige of winning. We have shown but a few times, and as a rule the winning birds were sold. The pen of Brahmas sold by us at $75. swept the deck at a Massachusetts exhibition on a score of 1893 by Judge Ballou. The cock in that pen was never beaten in his life. His score was 954 points. I could not do business if it were not for the breeding of exhibition specimens. The man who goes into poultry culture must kill half he raises, and sell them for poultry and eggs to pay current expenses. His profit must come from the exhibi- tion stock he raises and sells. If your birds win in your patrons hands you need not be worried about selling all the birds you can produce at good prices. Ten dollars for thirty or forty birds is not the question— the average sale is what tells the story. I have seen a cobbler who raised only thirteen chicks from fifteen eggs go into one of our largest exhibitions and he won three out of five first prizes. Quality is what tells, not quantity. JOHN HETTICH, Bowling Green, Mo. SPECIALTY BREEDER OF BLACK LANGSHANS A. 1,. Highest cash price paid for single specimen, $25. For two, $30. For three, $40. A. 2. Highest price paid for eggs fur hatching, $15. for twelve eggs. , A. 3. Highest price received for single specimen, $35. for a cock bird, $30. for a cockerel. A. 4, This bird had won first as cockerel, score 954 by Hewes at the Illinois State Show, 1901. Cockerel sold for $30; was unscored, sold him on description. Afterwards he won first prize and received a score of 944 points by Ben. 8. Myers. A. 5. For five fowls of exhibition quality, $35. Were worth $100. of any man’s money. January 2d, 1904, they were scored, cockerel 95}, pullets 96%, 954; hens 944, 933; pen 190}. Poultry with me is a side line. Am in the retail show business and breed Langshans for fancy. I handle them on three city lots, but have a good many raised for me on farms; 1 furnish the eggs and buy the stock back in the fall. GARDNER & DUNNING, Auburn, N.Y. BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCK SPECIALISTS. A. 1. Highest cash price paid for single specimen, $200. For two, $350. For three, $450. A. 2, Highest price paid for eggs for hatching, one sit- ting, $10. A. 3. Highest price received for single specimen, $100. We have sold a number at this price, but to give a list of the prizes won would be to injure our customers. We never claim winnings of birds we sell, unless by customers’ express permis- sion. Will say, however, that two of the birds here referred to won first prize at Chicago. A. 5. Highest average price received for three, $100. A. 6. For five, $100. each. A. 7. For ten, $50. each. A. 8. For twenty five, $50. each. J. C. FISHEL & SON, Hope, Ind. SPECIALTY BREEDERS OF WHITE WYANDOTTES A. 1. Highest cash price paid for single specimen, $50. For two, $100. For three, $150. A. 2. Highest price paid for eggs for hatching, one sit- ting, fifteen eggs, $10.; a number of times $25. per hundred. A. 38. Highest price received for single specimen, $150. A. 4. The cockerel was a very fine bird; was bred from a strain of line-bred birds and well advertised. He was good enough to win in fast company. : 5. We sold three cock birds for $300, i. e., $100 each. 6. Highest price received for five, $150. 7. For ten, $20. each. 8. For twenty-five, $18. each. Ee ee W. R. GRAVES, Springfield, Mass. SPECIALTY BREEDER OF WHITE WYANDOTTES A. 1, two, $60. A. 2. Highest price paid for eggs for hatching, one sit- ting of fifteen eggs, $10. A. 3. Highest price received for single specimen, $200. A. 4. Won first cock and special for best shaped male at Madison Square Garden, January 1903. Used as a model by Mr. F. L. Sewell, in making illustrations for the American Standard of Perfection. Highest price paid for single specimen, $35. For A. 5. Highest average price received for three, $133. A. 6. For five, $110. A. 7. For ten, $82.50. A. 8. For any twenty-five, $48. J. H. DOANE, Gouveneur, N. Y. BREEDER OF SINGLE COMB BLACK MINORCAS A. 1. Highest price paid for single specimen, $35. A, 2. Highest price paid for eggs for hatching, 13 Minorca eggs at $3. SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEPING A. 3. Highest price received for single specimen, $75. A. 4. Cock was bred in the purple and won first at Madi- son Square Garden, in 1902. F. B. Zimmer was the judge. A son of this bird won first the next year, but I lost him, with nearly all my other Minorcas, in a fire the following April. A. 5. Highest average price received for three, $50. each. W. L. DAVIS, Berlin, Conn. OWNER WILLOW BROOK FARM AND BREEDER OF SINGLE COMB BUFF, BLACK AND WHITE ORPINGTONS A. 1. Highest price paid for single specimen, $150. For two, $225. For ten, $650. A. 2. Highest price paid for eggs for hatching, $20. per dozen; six dozen, $90. A. 3. Highest price received for single specimen, $300. A. 4. I was able to obtain the above named prices simply because they had merit and were the finest specimens that A SIMPLE WATER FOUNTAIN, BUT ONE THAT IS PRACTICAL AND CONVENIENT parties could buy. Hardly a week passes that I do not receive $50. for some individual fowl. I have sold a good many at $100. each and I have specimens upon my plant that $500 cash could not buy. A. 5. Highest price received for three, $350., sold on one order. A. 7. For ten sold at one time to one party, $350. I sold a breeding lot of birds a few days ago, including twelve females and one male in Single Comb Buff variety for $300. These were simply breeding birds, not intended for show pur- poses. ; I wish to call your attention to the fact that our farm is devoted to fancy or standard-bred poultry exclusively. As our young stock matures, the specimens that show serious de- fect are consigned to the market, but there are only a few such birds; therefore, what little we do in this line of business can hardly be called utility poultry breeding. We are sparing neither money nor labor to perfect our strains and each year the number of defective specimens grow less. A. 8. In reply to the latter part of your blank I would state that we have received some very high prices throughout the country. I have sold no doubt over 100 birds in the last two years at $50. each. ‘This morning’s mail brings me an order for one at $50. to go to Tennessee and also three to go to Mexico for $100. I was offered $600. for my first prize Buff cock at New York, 1903, but I could not afford to sell him, as I was just starting and had a reputation to make, and had to have the breeding of this bird to get better stock from. I could hardly afford to keep him, being offered that price, but I considered it better business judgment to keep him, even though we needed the money, than to be minus his breeding. U. R. FISHEL, Hope, Ind. SPECIALTY BREEDER OF WHITE PLYMOUTH ROCKS A. 8. Highest price received for single specimen, $800. A.. 4, This bird won second prize at Indianapolis show, 1906. I would not sell the first prize cock bird at this same show, although I was offered $1,000. for him by the man who paid $800. for the second prize bird. A. 5. Sold three cock birds to one party for $1,300. A. 6. Sold seven White Plymouth Rocks for $1,750. This includes the $800. cock bird. A. 7. Highest average price received for ten, $250. each. A. 8. For twenty-five, $160. each. Ae C. HAWKINS, Lancaster, Mass. BREEDER OF ROYAL BLUE STRAIN PLYMOUTH ROCKS BARRED, WHITE AND BUFF; ALSO SILVER. WHITE AND BUFF WYANDOTTES A. 1. Highest price paid for single specimen, $100. For two, $200. For three, $300. A, 2. Highest price paid for eggs for hatching, four sit- tings at $10. per sitting. A. 8. Highest price received for single specimen, $300. A. 4. This bird was the first prize cockerel at the New York Show. I refused $500. for him before the breeding season. After breeding him one season I sold him for the price named. (Note:—Mr. Hawkins has omitted to state the variety to which this bird belonged, but we are of the opinion it was a Barred Plymouth Rock.—Ed.) A. 5. Highest average price received for three, $200. each. A. 6. For five, $200. each. A. 8. For any twenty-five fowls of exhibition quality, $100. each. These were.to different parties. Have sold twenty- five to one party at an average of $50. each. J. M. WILLIAMS & CO., North Adams, Mich. BREEDERS AND EXHIBITORS OF ALL VARIETIES OF SINGLE AND ROSE COMB ORPINCTONS A. 1. Highest price paid for single specimen, $100. For two, $125. We bought one lot of fifteen birds for which we paid $500. 14 VALUE OF STANDARD BREDS 2 “ A, thirteen. : . A. 3. Highest price received for single specimen, $100. A. 4. Our customer came here and picked the bird out to strengthen his flock. Their birds were off a little in some show points. We refused $300. for the first cock bird at the World’s Fair, St. Lous, Mo.; also another offer of $100. for this same bird to be used during one week at Madison Square Garden Show. : A. 5. Highest average price received for three, $86.66., i. e., $100., $85., and $75., respectively, for each of the three specimens. The $75. bird was sent to Professor Saunders of the Experiment Station, South Dakota. A. 6. Outside of those mentioned above, we average $50. each on one-half dozen or more birds each year. These are show birds for other fanciers. A. 7. We sell at least a dozen $25. cockerels each year besides those above mentioned. ‘ A. 8. Wesold twenty-five birds last season that averaged us $30. each. We have received as high prices as this on the average during the last three years. Highest price paid for eggs for hatching, $10. per HARMON BRADSHAW, Lebanon, Ind. SPECIALTY BREEDER OF SINGLE COMB WHITE LEGHORNS A. 1. Highest price paid for single specimen, $15. for a pullet. A. 2, Highest price paid for eggs for hatching, $5. per thirteen. A. 3. Highest price received for single specimen, $15. Have been offered $50. . A. 4. Because I had won several first prizes in hot com- petition. Have decided that I have been selling my birds too cheap. A. 5. $10. for trio. A..6. $30. per pen. 15 L. C. PISER, Shushan, N. Y. SPECIALTY BREEDER OF BUFF WYANDOTTES A. 1. Highest price paid for single specimen, $75. For two, $125. For three, $150. A. “2. Highest price paid for eggs for hatching, $50. for one hundred eggs. A. 3, Highest price received for single specimen, $75. A, 4. Owing to their high merit I obtained $75. for one specimen, because of his show record. Bird won first at Boston and New York. A. 5. $200. for three birds. A. 6. $275. for five birds. A. 7. $40. per bird. A. 8. Could not give this exactly, but would say $30. KNAPP BROS., Fabius, N. Y. SINGLE COMB WHITE LEGHORN SPECIALISTS A. 1. Highest price paid for single specimen, $50. For two, $75. For three, $100. A. 2. Highest price paid for eggs for hatching, $5. per thirteen. A. 3. Highest price received for single specimen, $100. A. 4. Was a winner of the first prize at New York Show. This bird was sold before leaving Madison Square Garden to a fancier who bought him on sight. A. 5. We have received $255. for three birds, making an average of $85. each. A. 6. We have received $375. for five birds or an average of $75. each. A. 7. We have received $625. for ten birds, making an average price of $62.50 each. A. 8 We have received $1,260. for twenty-five birds, making an average price of $50.40. CHAPTER THREE STARTING IN THE BUSINESS REPRESENTATIVE FOREMOST AMERICAN BREEDERS UNITE IN A SYMPOSIUM OF THE SECRET OF SUCCESS—HOW TO START RIGHT— PRACTICAL ADVICE FOR FANCIER, FARMER AND MARKET POULTRYMAN ISHING to present to our readers the latest, best and most authoritative information. on starting in the poultry business we decided that the best way would be to ask leading successful experi- enced poultrymen, how they would start if they were to begin again and possessed their present j knowledge of the business. With this idea in mind we prepared a set of fourteen questions on this subject and mailed them, with request for a prompt reply, to a number of old friends and patrons of the Reliable Poultry Journal. These poultrymen and women have learned the secrets of success and are experienced breeders and fanciers of note. They are in a position to tell the beginner how to start right and avoid the pitfalls of inexperience. Their advice should prove of great value to the novice whether he intends to become a breeder of fancy poultry, a market poultryman, or, as many have wisely chosen, expects to devote himself to a happy combination of both interests, fancy and utility. The farmer and the farmer’s flock is not overlooked, for him also good sound common sense advice is given. On first reading, some of these answers may appear to con- flict, but closer study will show that these fifty-nine successful breeders are practically of one opinion as to the essentials. Where one apparently disagrees with the majority his answer will usually contain a qualifying clause which modifies it according to the case in points or there is given good reason for his par- ticular dissension from the verdict of the majority. The only way to get full benefit of these questions and answers is to study them all carefully, apply them to your own particular case and circumstances according to your own best judgment, and then be guided by the advice of the majority who have given answers that fit your own situation. No beginner can go far wrong who will study this symposium carefully and then properly apply its teachings. The majority of these breeders agree that it is best to start with breeding stock where means will permit, and they give the reasons why; yet nearly all agree that eggs for hatching will give a good low cost start to one who does not possess sufficient means to start with stock. There is an element of chance in eggs for hatching that cannot be overlooked,—it is really a gamble or lottery. You buy the breeders chances in that par- ticular lot of eggs, say a sitting of 15 eggs for $2., $3. of $5. You may hatch and raise half a dozen birds worth « dollar each, you - may get three worth from $5. to $100. each and you may lose the whole lot and get nothing. It is for you to decide whether or not you wish to take chances in this egg lottery; the breeders have given their views and you must decide. Even though the element of chance enters largely into this egg problem, experi- ence has shown that fortune more often than not favors the egg buyer. There are chances also to be taken in the purchase of stock: The change may affect the birds, they must become acclimated and losses may result. Every reliable breeder you patronize, whether you buy eggs or stock, will do his best to help you to start right, and if losses result, from no fgult of your own, will do his best to meet you half way and help you to overcome your disappoint- ment and loss. Mongrels are spoken of in no uncertain terms in this sympo- sium. The day of the mongrel on successful poultry plants has gone forever; it no longer pays to keep scrubs. Pure-breds cost no more to raise and keep and they bring in much better returns in eggs and meat, besides being salable at. good prices as "breeding stock. The farmer who is abreast of the times has no use for mongrel stock, his horses, cattle, sheep and hogs must all be pure-breds, the best he can get, for the same reasons he should keep pure-bred poultry, not alone because they are more beauti- ful and make the farm more attractive, but because they grow thrive, produce and pay better. HOW TO STUDY THE SYMPOSIUM This symposium may be well termed “the voice of experi- ence.” Men of mark in the poultry world have contributed their advice and judgment freely. The reader should first study the questions and then compare them with the answers which are numbered to correspond. Each question has been given a number and under each of the fifty-nine separate divisions of this chapter, devoted to the replies of a prominent breeder, the answers will be found bearing the same number as the question asked. We believe that this is the simplest and best way to handle the subject satisfactorily. The reader is earnestly urged! to carefully read and study each question and answer by itself and then compare the opinions of the different breeders. Here- with is the list of questions: THE FOURTEEN QUESTIONS Suppose you possessed your present knowledge of the poultry business and were about to begin again, Q. 9. Would you buy eggs or fowls with which to start? Q. 10. What would be your reason? @. 11. What course would you advise for the farmer who wishes to improve his flock of mongrels by the addition of pure- bred blood with the object of raising better poultry for market? Q. 12. What course for the farmer who wishes to raise and sell fancy poultry as well as poultry for market? @. 13. What course for the beginner with ample funds who wishes to keep a limited number of fine fowls and breed exhibition specimens? Q. 14. What course for the beginner without much money to invest who wishes to go into the fancy poultry business? Q@. 15. What course for the beginner with ample funds who wishes to establish a large business in fancy and market poultry? Q. 16. What course for the beginner with moderate means who wishes to establish a large business in fancy and STARTING IN THE BUSINESS market poultry? , Q. 17. With your present knowledge and experience, if about to begin-again, which breed or variety would you select if you were going into fancy poultry? Q. 18. What would be your reasons for this choice? Q. 19. Which variety would you select if you were going to embark in market poultry raising? Q. 20. Your reason for this selection? Q. 21. If you wished to combine both fancy and market poultry raising, what breed or varieties would you select? Q. 22. Your reasons for this choice? OLD, TRIED BREEDS PROVE SAFEST KEEP IN VIEW THE PRACTICAL WHILE BUILDING UP A TRADE IN PUREBREDS— CROSSES RECOMMENDED FOR STRICTLY MARKET PURPOSES—THE REASON WHY I. K. FELCH, Natick, Mass. VETERAN JUDGE AND BREEDER OF LIGHT BRAHMAS, WHITE WYANDOTTES. BARRED AND WHITE PLYMOUTH ROCKS A. 9. I would never buy any eggs if I could obtain first class fowls at a reasonable price. A, 10. First; chicks from eggs shipped any distance will never be as fine as those from the same hen’s eggs set at home. Again, there is the liability of accident and of trouble with sit- ting hens, so that the investment may be a total loss if eggs are bought. Second; when eggs are laid and set at home we do not mind the accident of a poor hatch; we have eggs enough coming to repair the loss. Third; what does it amount to in the end; if you pay $100. for a pen of five fowls and raise from them one hundred chickens, it makes the flock cost but one dollar each for blood and you have the pen left. The fact that the flock was from such a pen would enable you to sell them for a dollar more each, than you could a flock raised from eggs bought. A. 11. I cannot conscientiously advise a farmer to do such a thing. He had far better buy average specimens of - Brahma hens with a White Leghorn cockerel and raise half- breeds for poultry and eggs than to cross up mongrels with pure- bred males. Such a cross will be the most profitable where eggs and poultry for market purposes are desired. The days of mongrels have Jong since passed. If he chooses to use these half-breeds let him mate a White Wyandotte male with the females, and the third year breed back the pullets of this mating to White Wyandotte cocks. Buy for the third year good White Wyandotte, males and so secure from this mating a flock of fowls that are practically pure-bred White Wyandottes. A. 12. I should choose from among the American breeds the variety I liked best. My choice would be White Plymouth Rocks from this class and Light Brahmas from the Asiatics. These two breeds will lay the most satisfactory eggs for a family trade. Raise White Plymouth Rocks for early roasters and first class eggs. Brahmas are the best winter layers of all the breeds. Brahmas are good birds to “carry over”. and in March the male birds not sold for breeding purposes can be readily sold as heavy roasters. There is no breed that pays to feed the males through winter like the Brahmas, for they are soft roasters, if kept in celibacy, from the time they are five months old until spring. We often get $3. each for these males as heavy roasters in March. The White Plymouth Rock males killed before they are five months old will pay for raising themselves and the pullets up toa laying age, practically giving us the pullets free of cost. A. 18, The day is past when one can count on selling every chicken raised for breeding or exhibition if one is to retain his reputation as a first class breeder. He must calculate on rais- ing at least 40 to 50 per cent of each one hundred chicks to be disposed of as market poultry. For such he should choose a breed that can be raised to perfection by the single mating system so that he will have the smallest percentage of culls. One breed is all that he should try to handle on a backyard lot or small farm. There is no doubt that all do the best with a variety they like best, but the breed the vast majority buy is the safest for the novice to start with, for thousands of breeders are telling in their advertisements of its merits. If one chooses an isolated breed he has to do an immense amount of advertising before he will make his variety popular, even if it has merit. The old tried breeds will prove the safest for him, Brahmas, White Wyandottes or White Leghorns as his taste dictates. A. 14. Such persons must keep in view the practical while building up a trade for the pure-breds. The beginner should choose a breed that he has made up his mind to tie to all his life, for no’man yet has ever increased his trade beyond the reflex influence last seasons’ advertising has on the current year business. He had best buy a trio of good birds and spend his first season in breeding his stock rather than trying to buy a full complement. He will learn the requirements of the business in his first years’ labor. He will find that the male birds will sell for market poultry for enough to raise his pullets, so that the pullets will cost only the time it takes to care for them. The first year will be the hard year for such a beginner, but the second year the flock will begin to care for him. Take but one breed the first year. Put an ad. in a poultry paper no larger than you can afford to carry as a yearly advertisement. A. 15. Such a beginner has no excuse if he does not suc- ceed, provided he secures the right kind of help and puts suffi- cient money into the business to make it pay. As we have said above, on a large plant at least 40 to 50 per cent of the product must be disposed of in the markets as poultry and eggs. He should choose three or four breeds so assorted as to insure the very largest uniform daily production of eggs the year round. My advice would be Light Brahmas, White Plymouth Rocks and White Leghorns, or Light Brahmas, Buff Plymouth Rocks and Buff Leghorns. If I lived near New York market I would choose Buff Orpingtons, Light Brahmas and White Minorcas. I would not keep more than these three varieties and would push them for all they were worth. A. 16. It matters not whether a man has little or much means, he is bound by the same rules and breeds. This breeder of moderate means must begin small and grow up from year to year until he becomes a breeder with ample means. A. 17. My breeds today: Light Brahmas, Barred and White Plymouth Rocks, and White Wyandottes. A. 18. Ilivein New England where yellow legs and yellow skin has the call, and as‘half one raises must go to the butcher’s block the above breeds pay the best and all are first class egg producers. In New England the breed that is both the best for poultry and for eggs pays better than the breed where the eggs are.the prime consideration. A. 19. Brahmas, and cross them with White Wyandottes. A. 20, They would reach broiling age 4 lbs. to the pair in eight weeks. The females lay dark-shelled eggs and this first cross will give about 200 eggs a year per hen. They will make larger roasters at from six to seven months old, besides they would be in grand shape during the whole seasons’ growth. A. 21. Brahmas as the best large breed. White or Buff Plymouth Rocks or White Wyandottes. A. 22. I think them all prolific layers when bred to an 17 / oblong shape of body and close plumage. Excessive blocky shape is a robber of merit both as to normal growth and egg production. 1 BEGIN WITH FOWLS NOT PULLETS AND COCKERELS BUT HENS AND COCKS—NO GUESS WORK THEN AS TO QUALITY OF FOUNDATION STOCK THOMAS F. RIGG, Iowa Falls, Iowa BREEDER OF HOUDANS AND WHITE WYANDOTTES A. 9. Fowls, not pullets and cokerels, but hens and cocks. A. 10. By so doing would secure breeding stock of known quality, as they would be fully developed in size, shape and color markings. There would be no guess work about the quality of the foundation stock. ; A, 11. Buy a pen of standard-bred fowls. Raise every ‘chick possible from this pen. At the close of the breeding season market the mongrels. If not this, buy a number of standard-bred males of the American class, one breed or variety. Turn these in with the flock of common stock. Breed to males of the same breed or variety each season. Use incubators and brooders, thus getting out early chicks. These early pullets will produce an abundance of eggs during early fall and winter. The early cockerels can be profitably marketed when price for young stock is comparatively high. A. 12. Put up comfortable but not expensive buildings. Resolve to handle but one breed or variety, White Plymouth Rock or Orpington, and stand pat on that resolution. Operate incubators and brooders. Early hatched birds will be demanded by breeders and exhibitors for the early shows and for the winter shows, and such exhibition stock brings the very highest price. The early hatched pullets reserved will supply an abund- ance of eggs which will command the highest market price. Advertise the breeding stock in the poultry press every month in the year and every year. Exhibit stock annually. A. 13. Make the start with one or two pens of fowls, not cockerels and pullets. Secure the very best stock obtainable regardless of price. Make the matings each year carefully and for quality, not quantity. Cull early each season. This is very important. Keep only the specimens of extra choice quality; get all others off the place as soon as possible. Ex- hibit in a number of the leading shows each season. ° Advertise liberally in the poultry press. ; A. 14. Same as the answer to No. 13 except that he must cut his cloth to the garment; must proceed more slowly, denying himself somewhat of the conveniences which the man of ample means can and should have, but which are not absolutely neces- sary to success—but he must not cut the quality of the founda- tion stock. Better start with a pen or trio of extra choice stock than with several pens of fair to good stock. Here is where most beginners fall down. A. 15. Same as the answer to No. 13 in regard to laying the foundation of the business. Should locate near a city and own the land, several acres, enough land that grain in particular at least may be raised. Select one variety of Wyandottes, ‘Plymouth Rocks, Orpingtons or 8. C. White Leghorns. Use incubators and brooders. Establish a personal trade for market poultry and eggs. Deliver to customers daily in neat packages, each package bearing name of producer and his guaranty of quality. Charge a little more than the market price and make the goods worth it. This alone will greatly aid in the selling of the produce. Advertise and exhibit the stock. 18 SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEPING A. 16. Same as the answer to No. 15, bringing the busi- ness to the full capacity of the farm and the owner’s resources more slowly. ; A. 17. White Plymouth Rocks and S. C. White Leghorns. A. 18. They represent the best in market poultry and egg production. They possess all the points required by the fancier and market poultryman; beauty and utility. A. 19. White Plymouth Rocks. A. 20. Consider them the best market fowls. They fully meet the demands of the American market and. can be brought to marketable size and condition more quickly than any other breed or variety. A. 21. White Plymouth Rocks. A. 22. Answered in No. 18 and 19. Also that they are one of the most popular fowls with the breeders and exhibitors. BUY PLENTY OF EGGS MOST BEGINNERS BUY TOO FEW—YOU WANT A FAIR NUMBER OF CHICKS TO START WITH H. J. BLANCHARD, Groton, N. Y. SPEGIALTY BREEDER OF SINGLE-COMB WHITE LEGHORNS A. 9. —Eggs—from a long established, well known, suc- cessful and reliable breeder who has made a specialty of the breed I want. A. 10. Ishould,buy a goodly number of eggs; most be- ginners make the mistake of buying too few, so as to have a fair number of chicks to start with. I would raise them care- fully, keeping them growing right along without setbacks if possible, giving free range when old enough, watching them carefully in every stage of growth. If they pleased me at ma- turity I would then select from the lot the most promising birds for breeders. In this way I would be more able to detect any ‘weakness or undesirable qualities inherent in the strain, and would also run a chance of having some as good birds as the old breeder of whom I purchased the eggs. ‘Furthermore, my chickens would not be of so many different ages and sizes as they would be if I had bought a few breeding birds and produced the eggs from which to hatch my chickens. A. 11. Buy some low-priced but good-sized and vigorous pure-bred males and cross on his mongrels. However, he might’ better sell his mongrels and buy pure-bred stock for breeders, as it costs no more to maintain them and much finer and more uniform poultry would be the result. A. 12. Buy a fine breeding pen from a well known, re- liable and successful breeder for foundation stock. Or, if he prefers, it would perhaps be as well to fill an incubator with first-class eggs instead of the fine breeding pen, whichever ap- peals to him most favorably. A. 13. Buy the very finest breeding pen obtainable from a well known, reliable and successful specialty breeder of exhibi- tion birds, for his foundation stock. Would recommend line- breeding in his case. A. 14. Buy eggs from exhibition matings of a well known, reliable and successful specialty breeder, hatch and raise his breeding stock. A. 15. Buy enough good breeding stock to supply eggs for running one or two 240-egg incubators during the hatching season. Also buy enough eggs from fine exhibition matings to fill one or more incubators, from a specialist of reputation and experience. A. 16. Buy 1,000 or 2,000 eggs for hatching from good general purpose matings, of an experienced, reliable and success- ful specialty breeder, hatch them in incubators and raise with STARTING IN THE BUSINESS brooders. Select a pen of your finest pullets for breeding ex- hibition stock and buy from the same breeder a fine cock to mate with them. Select the next best pullets for your utility matings and if you have the means to spare buy vigorous cocks from the same breeder, if possible, to mate with them. Or, if your cash is running low, use some of your strongest and best cockerels to mate with the pullets. A. 17. Single Comb White Leghorns. A. 18. I consider them the handsomest and most grace- ful fowl. There is a great and growing demand for them, their popularity arising largely from their known ability as layers and the handsome, large white egg bringing a good premium above regular prices in the best markets. They are hardy, vigorous and do well both confined and on free range. They $ AN ARTISTIC LOCATION FOR DUCKS are a good table fowl when well fattened, the flesh being fine grained, sweet and juicy. They are in great demand for exhibi- tion purposes at good prices, being one of the largest and most popular classes in most shows. A. 21. Single-Comb White Leghorns only. A. 22. For reasons already stated in No. 18. Also the surplus cockerels at 12 to 16 ounces each alive make delicious squab broilers and sell at high prices. They are great foragers and particularly adapted to free range. NEVER GET DISCOURAGED THE POULTRY BUSINESS WILL PAY A GOOD PROFIT— MUCH DEPENDS ON DETAIL WORK KNAPP BROS., Fabius, N. Y. SINGLE-COMB WHITE LEGHORNS SPECIALISTS A. 9. We would buy poultry for main dependence from the best breeders of the variety we wished to start with. A. 10. For the reason that one has a much better oppor- tunity to select and know what his foundation stock is; a few sittings from most reliable breeders would be a safe proposition. A. 11. Would advise him to purchase male birds from one of the general purpose varieties to breed with his mongrel females, and one or more pure bred females of same variety, and so work into pure bred stock of the variety he likes best. White Wyandottes or White Plymouth Rocks are sure to be right. 19 A, 12. Would advise purchasing a grand pen of breeding birds of the desired variety as foundation stock, and add to this stock by purchase und stock raised until a good business is developed. A. 13. First, select the variety that has the most ready sale; secure breeding stock that has been bred right so that a large per cent of the progeny will conform to standard require- ments. Study the breed and best methods of breeding. Learn to love the business, let others know in any way you can, that you have the best, the most popular variety, and you are sure to succeed. Attend the leading shows, compare results, never get discouraged. Very much depends on the little detail work. A. 14. Select the 8. C.,White Leghorns, the greatest egg producing breed; they will pay their way in eggs at the common market price. More money in market eggs than market poultry. This variety helps the profit side, while you are working up the fancy business. Pay a well known reliable breeder a good price, all he asks, for your foundation stock, and you are well started in the right direction. Attend the poultry shows; it will well pay. Study the breeding problem thoroughly. A. 15. Engage a competent man of experience to take charge of and build up the plant, a man who has had sufficient training, possesses good sound judgment and is a hustler. See that buildings are ready in the fall. Select the best one or two varieties. Secure the best to be had in yearling hens and early cockerels to mate with them in sufficient numbers to well stock your buildings, and your man is sure to make a success from the first start off. A. 16. First, acquaint yourself with your business thor- oughly by attending some Agricultural College having a poultry department with a thoroughly good man at the head of it. Prof. Jas. E. Rice, of Cornell University, Ithaca, N. Y., is just such a man. Take the time to learn the business. Prepare yourself further by spending a few months with some good poultryman on the farm, taking up the details and practical work along the lines you wish to follow. Your buildings should be ready to receive your breeding stock in the fall. Now, select the best of breeding stock and have everything in readiness for early spring. A. 17. §.C. White Leghorns. A. 18. Because we believe this variety is the best egg producing variety on earth; it matures early; the large sized, pure white eggs are sure to command highest market price; costs less for feed than the larger varieties; etc. We believe there is the greatest demand for breeding and laying stock and show birds of this variety at good prices. The country is dotted over with money-making poultry plants stocked with Single- Comb White Leghorns exclusively. The great popularity of this breed for the past fifty years is sufficient proof for the beginner that this variety is the one to select without a shadow of a doubt. The old breeders, exhibitors and beginners are the buyers. For proof that the poultry business is not overdone, notice the fact that all poultry products bring higher prices with each succeed- ing year or substantially so. Twenty years ago we sold surplus stock at six cents per pound; this fall same quality of stock brought 15 and 16 cents per pound live weight at wholesale. We believe that the poultry plant in a large or small way proper- ly managed to combine fancy and the market egg business will pay a much greater profit,—prove a source of greater enjoyment and satisfaction than if run for market poultry. As proof we cite one or two cases in our history along this line and we could cite hundreds of similar examples. i Our order books show that a customer sent us an order for two breeding pens S. C. W. Leghorns, four pullets and a cock- erel in each pen. The amount he sent us at that time, sixteen years ago, for these two pens or ten birds, was $108.00. This party is still breeding 8. C. White Leghorns and has bought many hundreds of dollars worth more stock for new blood in SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEPING breeding and exhibition birds and heavy layers. An order recently received, from this same party without waiting to write and ask a question, was for five of our best breeding cockerels, N. Y. draft $200. enclosed to pay for them, and in same letter $100. was' enclosed for ten choice pullets. One other case we cite is that of an order just received, Nov. 13th., from one of our old standby customers in Australia, enclosing sight draft on New York of £15. sterling for three pullets, practically $25. each. START WITH STANDARD-BREDS BUY FOWLS RATHER THAN EGGS—DO NOT CROSS DIFFERENT STRAINS— MISTAKES YOU MAKE THE FIRST YEAR HELP YOU TO SUCCEED A. C. HAWKINS, Lancaster, Mass. BREEDER OF BARRED. WHITE AND BUFF PLYMOUTH ROCKS; WHITE AND BUFF WYANDOTTES A. 9. Fowls. A. 10. I would buy fowls rather than eggs for the reason that eggs often give unsatisfactory results. Sometimes they prove infertile, often they are injured in transit, and often the incubator or sitting hen does poor work. If you buy fowls the eggs will be in better hatching condition, and if one lot does not give good results others can be incubated. A. 11. I would advise a farmer to purchase males of pure-bred stock to breed on his common farm fowls, and to buy a pen of utility stock of some pure breed and breed up from them, changing males each season. Select the breeds that lay eggs of the proper color and that make the best fowls for the local markets. A. 12. Select one of the varieties of Plymouth Rocks or Wyandottes, and purchase a good pen of a reliable breeder. Breed up a flock from them. Cull the flocks closely and breed from the best specimens each season. You will soon have a stock of fancy breeding birds as well as market fowls. A. 13. Purchase the very best exhibition specimens of a reliable breeder, and have them properly mated by the party who breeds them. Do not cross different strains if the one you have breeds to please”you, but if they do not, drop the strain you have and take up a new one. : A, 14. Purchase a trio of breeding birds at $25. to $50., the best you can afford. You should raise 75 to 100 chicks from a trio the first season and from such a flock you should select some choice pens for the next seasons’ breeding. A. 15. Purchase 10 breeding pens, 100 females and 10 males of first class breeding stock, costing $5. to $10. each. You should stock a large farm from the progeny of these breeding pens the first season, and have a good number of choice breeders and show birds for sale. A. 16. Purchase a breeding pen of 10 females and one male and raise 500 chicks the first year from them. Select the best for breeding, and the second year you should stock the farm with good birds from these matings. The mistakes you make the first year will help you to succeed. A. 17. Barred Plymouth Rocks and White Wyandottes. A. 18. I select these breeds as they are the most popular and sell for the highest prices. They are practical table fowls and those that do not sell for breeding or exhibition will sell at a profit for table use. A. 19. White Plymouth Rocks. A. 20. I select the White Plymouth Rocks because they lay a uniform dark-colored egg, are quick growers and have no black pin feathers. 20 A, 21. Barred Plymouth Rocks, White Plymouth Rocks, White Wyandottes, Columbian Wyandottes. A. 22. Because they are in good demand for breeding and show purposes, and are all practical utility fowls. GOOD BUSINESS FOR FARMER BEGIN RIGHT—BUY THE BEST—KEEP ONLY STANDARDBREDS — BETTER RETURNS FOR MONEY INVESTED C. H. WELLES, Stratford, Conn. I SPECIALTY BREEDER OF BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCKS A. 9. I would buy both fowls and eggs provided the eggs were from fowls mated as I want them. A. 10. I should buy the best fowls of whatever breed took my fancy. These would be good for two or threé years breeding. Every observing poultryman learns something each year and the practical experience gained by breeding one’s own birds leads me to say, buy the fowls first. If you think some other breeder has blood that you want and you can’t buy it, then do the next best thing—buy the eggs. A. 11. I would advise every farmer to dispose of his mongrels and procure the best all purpose fowl suited to his trade. It costs no more to raise and keep them, and they will command a better price and give better satisfaction both to himself and his customers. Any reliable breeder who has spent time and money in breeding his flock to a high standard is in a position to furnish this stock, as there are lots of birds raised that are not quite good enough to show that are well suited for this purpose. A. 12: This is a good business for every farmer but I would advise beginning in the right way—buy the best. No good farmer wants a poor horse or cow and it is just as essential to have good fowls. They will give better results for the amount of money invested when given the same good attention. The first expense may run high but you will be surprised how soon your next neighbor will get the fever and pay you for it. 'A, 18, Again I say, buy the best and if he don’t succeed, buy some more. This beginner has probably got an automobile and when they need the most attention he won’t be there but the cats will. A. 14, Start in a small way but buy the best and get your experience as you get interested. Buy the best, life is too short to begin any other way. Get on as near the top as possible and climb up. A. 15. I am afraid this fellow is going to be hard to teach. He has probably read all the poultry literature on the market and is going to do as he likes, right or wrong. His ex- perience will cost him something but we can’t help it. A. 16. Go slow. The water may run warm when he goes in and he will be liable to get beyond his depth. A. 17. Barred or White Plymouth Rocks. A, 18. Ihave three reasons. : First, they are the most popular birds in America and are found in the yards of more poultrymen than any other one breed or variety. Second, they are the best general purpose fowl, being excellent layers and fine market birds, maturing early and of good size. Third, they are par excellence as show birds and there is no class that attracts more attention or meets stronger competi- tion in the show yoom. The supply of choice specimens has never equalled the demand. A. 19. Barred or White Plymouth Rocks STARTING IN THE BUSINESS A. 20. The same as given in No. 18, only pay more at- tention to large size and less to fine feathers. KEEP PEDIGREE RECORDS VALUE CANNOT BE OVER-ESTIMATED—IT IS THE ONLY SURE WAY TO BREED RIGHT W. W. BYWATERS, Camden Point, Mo. SPECIALTY BREEDER OF BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCKS A. 9. Would buy a couple of trios or pens, the best obtainable and then several hundred eggs. A. 10, This would be a very good way to start to line breed and it is hardly ever best to depend on one particular mating. In this case I could thoroughly test the breeding merits of the pens and if they bred true I could select males bred from them for next season. If the eggs were from the same breeder and I had carefully kept pedigree record of pens and eggs I could mate no doubt as well as if they were all bred and raised at home. The value of a carefully kept pedigree record cannot be over-estimated as it is the only sure way to breed. A. 11. Get good males that are strong in the points you wish to establish, and use them two years; the second year breed them back to their own pullets. Males can be bought from some reliable fancier from $2. to $5. each or they may come cheaper by buying a few sittings of eggs and raising them at home.. Don’t let a dollar or two prevent your getting the best for the purpose. A. 12. Stock up with pure-breds as soon as possible and handle one variety. The cheapest method to make the change would be to buy several hundred eggs. Use the mongrels to hatch and rear the chicks and dispose of the mongrels as soon as the youngsters are old enough to wean. A. 13. ‘Buy the very best breeders obtainable and trust to the fancier you buy from to mate them for best results. A, 14. Buy a first class trio and then a limited number of eggs, the best obtainable. A. 17. Barred Plymouth Rocks. A, 18. They are more extensively bred than any other variety, thus insuring a better market for your product. A. 19. Barred Plymouth Rocks. A. 20. They combine about all the qualities desirable for this purpose and the surplus males can be sold to better advan- tage for breeding purposes. A, 21. Barred Rocks. A. 22. Because I have tested them thoroughly and know them to be desirable for both fancy and market. ALL DEPENDS ON BREEDING STOCK THE BEST ARE NONE TOO GOOD— GO SLOW AND GROW UP IN THE BUSINESS —LITTLE THEORY AND MUCH COMMON SENSE NECESSARY W. S. HARRIS, Mansfield, Mass. BREEDER OF RHODE ISLAND REDS EXCLUSIVELY A. 9. Ishould buy the fowls if I-wanted to breed many, but eggs if few. A, 10. If one is to breed a large number, it would be cheaper to buy enough breeding stock to give a sufficient number of eggs, and he would know better what to expect from the eggs. A. 11. Light Brahmas make the best poultry. Rhode Island Reds for an all purpose fowl fill the bill. Large R. I. Red males crossed on such hens would give good results, and better still if the males are from a great laying strain. A. 12. First, decide on the breed and decide wisely, as . the demand for some breeds of fowls is very limited. The all 21 around fowl has the greater demand. I have tried most all breeds and find the breeds of the American class the most profitable. A, 13. Buy eight or ten yearling hens and a cockerel, the best to be had, of some reliable breeder whose stock is vigor- ous and has stood the test in the strongest shows. Most every- thing depends on the breeding stock, so the old saying that the best is none too good certainly holds true in this case. I get the best results when using a cockerel on hens; the chicks come stronger; the reason is plain, the hens not laying much during the winter, not being forced, come along naturally. I never allow my breeders to be forced during the winter, only to come along naturally. The chicks from such stock are much the stronger. A. 14. He should go slow and grow up in the business. He must advertise or no one will know where he lives. Don’t buy a trio and expect results, as two females with one male may prove a failure. Have six birds at least with a young male, or perhaps four females with a cock might do, but with a cockerel four would be too few. The best way for such a beginner would be to find work for himself on some successful poultry plant or plants. He would gain immeasurably and surely save a lot of time and money. A. 16. If he cannot get a place on a successful plant and has a certain amount of common sense, let him tackle it without. Don’t jump into it all at once, as it takes some capital after everything is bought to carry on the business. If one uses little theory and much common sense he will be more apt to succeed. A. 17. Rhode Island Reds. | A. 18. They have proved to me to be the most profitable as an all around fowl for both meat and eggs. They mature early and are the best of winter layers. Cocks weigh about 9 lbs. and hens 7 lbs. You can hatch a month later than you can with any of the other so-called general purpose fowl, and get them to laying at the same time in the fall. A. 19. If I were to hatch during the fall I would use Light Brahmas; during the late winter and early spring, Rhode Island Reds. A. 20. The Brahma is so slow to mature that you can hold them longer than any other breed, as they remain soft. The longer into the spring you can hold a fall chicken the more you get per pound for it as a roaster. A. 21. Rhode Island Reds. A. 22. I honestly believe that one breed is all any man can properly attend to on the same plant. Rhode Island Reds have given me the best results as layers and for fancy purposes. CHEAP START WITH EGGS PURE BRED FLOCK IN SHORT TIME AT SMALL COST GARDNER & DUNNING, Auburn, N. Y. BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCK SPECIALISTS A. 9. Both. A. 10. If one buys of a reliable breeder he can get started for less money by buying eggs. It would doubtless be necessary to buy a few birds to enable one to properly mate up the pens for the first seasons’ breeding. A. 11. Buy pure-bred male or males, or better still buy SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEPING _50 or 100 eggs from pure-breds; mate the best cockerel raised - with a pen of the best females and raise all his chicks from this pen. In this way he can have a pure-bred flock in two years at small cost. A. 12. Buy 100 or more eggs from a reliable breeder. If not enough suitable males are raised to mate with the females, buy from some breeder. A. 13. Buy best pair or trio of fowls obtainable and use them for foundation stock. Would prefer to start with one pair and that pair the best money would buy. A. 14. Buy eggs. A. 15 and 16. Buy both stock and eggs. A. 17. Barred Plymouth Rocks. A. 18. Better demand at better prices than for any other variety, so far as I know. A. 19. Barred Plymouth Rocks. A. 20. Best utility fowl we have. grown, hardy and marketable at any age. A. 21. Barred Plymouth Rocks. A. 22. Choice exhibition specimens sell readily at $50. to $100. each.. As market fowls they have no superior. % ote tied FARMER, SELL YOUR MONGRELS PURE-BREDS MAKE DOLLARS WHERE SCRUBS MAKE CENTS—GET THE BEST PURE STOCK YOU CAN BUY AND MAKE MONEY FROM THE _ START U. R. FISHEL, Hope, Indiana. SPECIALTY BREEDER OF WHITE PLYMOUTH ROCKS Good layers, quick A. 9. I would buy fowls by all means. A. 10. In buying fowls you save one year’s time, also in buying fowls they pay their way right from the start. A few dollars more than that required for the purchase of eggs will buy a good mating of breeders. If you buy your foundation stock of a good reliable breeder there is no reason why your investment should not prove a profitable one. A. 11. IfI1wasa farmer and wanted to make more money out of my poultry I would sell every mongrel I had and buy a small flock of one variety of pure-bred fowls. With this flock as the foundation I would in a few seasons have a flock of fowls that would be making dollars where the mongrels make me cents. A. 12. The only wise course for the farmer to take in rearing poultry for fancy and market is to stock his farm with one breed of fowls that are in great demand, and select a variety that will breed true to color. Reserve the best for the fancy trade and sell the ordinary ones to the markets, realizing from one to three cents more per pound for them. A.. 13. The way for the beginner to follow who wants to breed only a few fowls and those good ones should be to buy a small pen of the very best quality that he can afford to buy. Secure the birds of a breeder that you know breeds his winners. You then know that you are getting stock that will produce your winners. Always tie to a specialty breeder. You can then bank on it that you are getting pure blood and stock that will give you excellent results. A. 14. To the man that has but little capital I would say buy a small pen or trio of as good quality birds as your means will permit. Breed them and sell their progeny until you have enough money to get better birds. If you take the proper variety and buy of the right party you will make money from the start. : A. 15. The proper way for one who has plenty of capital 22 to enter the poultry business is to start slow, learn the business and add to the plant as you know the details. Don’t build a thousand dollar poultry house and buy ten dollars’ worth of chickens, expecting the business to pay. It takes the chickens to make thé business profitable. A. 16, Aman with moderate means will generally start right for he cannot start except on a small scale. Buy a few good birds, do not spend too much money for fine buildings, and you will be all right. A. 17. I would by all means breed White Plymouth Recks. A. 18. They command the best of prices both for fancy and market poultry. They are easy to breed by breeding true to color; are the very best of egg producers; the best table fowl we have, in fact, the White Plymouth Rocks are the most beautiful and profitable fowl bred today. A. 19. White Plymouth Rocks. A. 20. They are by all odds the best money makers there are; splendid layers, fine table fowls, in fact, they combine every good quality and have no poor ones. A. 21. White Plymouth Rocks. A, 22, As mentioned above, they sell for more money and breed truer than any other variety. QUALITY BEFORE QUANTITY BETTER TWENTY-FIVE GOOD BIRDS THAN ONE HUNDRED INFERIOR ONES—SELECT A POPU- LAR STANDARD VARIETY THAT SUITS YOU WILBER BROS., Petros, Tenn. SPECIALTY BREEDERS OF SINGLE COMB WHITE LEGHORNS A. 9. Would. buy stock, considering well quality and not price. A. 10. On buying stock well mated for extra results, paying a reasonable price and considering quality before quan- tity (from an honest breeder who deals with his patrons as he would desire to be dealt with), one is started for the front, hav- ing gained a foundation that will keep him right with the breed- ing and long experience behind him. However, if the beginner is not financially able to purchase a foundation flock of good birds, would advise him to well consider the above and order eggs of the best possible stock. A. 11. Would advise the farmer to cull down very close, considering his best laying and table quality specimens. selling off his scrubbiest birds and be sure he has selected his best; rather 25 of his best birds than 100 little, big, all colors anid shapes. Afterwards buy from some good reliable breeder of his choice of variety, purpose considered, a good cockerel, strong and vigorous, to be mated with hens, a good yearling cock to be mated with pullets, not mating more than 10 or 12 females to a male. A. 12. The farmer wishing to raise fancy stock as well as poultry for market should consider well his market and the color of the birds, color of skin, color of eggs, etc., his market requirements, such as will meet with ready sale at top prices. Select the most popular standard breed, suitable to fill these requirements, make his foundation stock of extra quality, selecting and separating his better specimens for fancy and sell- ing the lower quality birds to the market. A. 13. The beginner with ample funds wishing to keep a limited number of fine fowls will not find everything in this line smooth sailing. Before engaging and entering into the busi- ness he should study well the leading poultry journals, adding to his library a copy of the American Standard of Perfection a STARTING IN THE BUSINESS visit some good shows, then select the variety that best suits his taste and that he has a love and fancy for, not overlooking one of the popular varieties. Make a very close study of the subject, have your houses and yards properly built, buy for foundation stock a good trio or pen mated to produce high class exhibition birds. Get them of some reliable and noted breeder who has won for years in the better class of shows and you will have the correct start, after which your future success depends upon your own efforts. A. 14. Make a close study of the chosen variety. Go to some good shows if possible. Get in communication with some good breeder, telling him your circumstances and wishes, and order a sitting or two of eggs from the breeder’s best matings. Do not buy cheap sittings. A. 15. We would well consider location, market, houses of modern types, but convenient and comfortable to fowls. Having attended some good shows and studying the Standard and poultry journals he would be ready for the foundation stock. Would consider well the quality and the variety best suited, choosing one of the popular ones. Reserve the best birds for SELECT BREED TO SUIT LOCALITY LEARN MARKET REQUIREMENTS AND BE GOVERNED BY THEM—CATER TO THE DEMAND OF THE PUBLIC W. L. DAVIS, Berlin, Conn. BREEDER OF SINGLE-COMB BUFF, BLACK AND WHITE ORPINGTONS A. 9. I certainly should advise buying grown stock with which to make a start. A. 10. The reason for buying full grown stock would be simply because I know what I want and with that in view I should proceed to secure just the kind of specimens that I wanted to carry out my ideas on breeding. There never can be any doubt when you buy stock, as the material is there for you to see and judge. In buying eggs there is always a doubt whether you get that which you pay for or not. If I could buy from a reliable dealer eges from his best yards I would consider this a PEKIN DUCKS AT HOME A flock of Pekin Ducks at the Echo Poultry Farm, Great Valley, N. Y. breeding and fancy trade, selling the lower quality on the market. A. 16. Start as per our answer in previous question, building from the ground up, not being too hasty, but keeping in view his future, and the amount of money he has to invest. Do not overlook the quality of the foundation stock. A. 17. Single-Comb White Leghorns, the best to be had g considering size, standard qualities and egg production. A. 18. Because they are unexcelled as layers and are found on the world’s greatest poultry plants where eggs are wanted in abundance the year round, the eggs of good size, high flavor, with a white shell, that are in demand at a good price. There has never been and never will be enough of these birds reared to fill the great demand for first quality breeding and exhibition stock. They are beautiful, profitable and the greatest of all layers. : A. 21. Single-Comb White Leghorns. A. 22. Because they are unexcelled layers, non-sitters, make very plump, small roasters and broilers, their skin being creamy or yellow and the meat very sweet, fine and juicy. 23 fair way to start into breeding the very best. If I could not be sure of this I would buy stock by all means. A. 11. I should advise the farmer in addition to buying new blood to buy eggs for hatching from a good reliable breeder. If I liked the offspring and they did well with me I should go still further and buy some stock from this same breeder. A, 12. Go to some good breeder and buy the best grade of birds that he thought he could sell. Pay the breeder a fair price and let this be the start. If the farmer lives in a locality where ‘there is a call for high class poultry with good prices for same, I should advise paying a good price for a pen ‘of birds to start with. If the farmer was a novice at raising poultry a cheaper pen would be better to start in with, and he could correct his mistakes as he went along, at the same time getting educated in the breeding business. A. 13. Buy the very best that he can procure. Pay the breeder for the best and be sure that attention and time are given to them in securing same.. A. 14. Would advise him to buy several sittings of good eggs from a reliable breeder. You understand all through my SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEPING remarks I am laying great stress upon buying stock of reliable breeders. We have lots of them in this country that I would just as soon send to for eggs and know that I would get what I ordered as I would to go and see them laid at the plant. There are, however, some unreliable breeders that cannot be dealt with in this way. Also, advertisements are misleading, and a look at their stock would convince an experienced breeder at once that they were not all that they should be A. 15. Hire a thoroughly competent man to attend to the business for the first year or so at any rate, paying him from $60. to $100. a month. Go with him to some good breeder and buy extra good stock, also make arrangements with that same breeder to secure a sufficient number of eggs for hatching. A. 16. I would advise him to buy eggs of the variety he liked best. Begin small and grow up with the business, learn- ing as he goes along. A. 17. Orpingtons. A. 18. They are bound to be one of the most populaz varieties in America, and they have the good qualities back of them to make them so. You cannot keep a good man down nor can you keep this good variety of poultry down. They have real merit and anything in this country that has real merit back of it has got to be a success in time. They are among the best layers, as the Australian egg laying contest proves. They command the highest prices in the fancy trade of any breed that I know. They are handsome, attractive birds; they will forage for their feed better than any other variety I know of; easy keepers, making finest of mothers, and can be broken of sitting easily. They have white skin that is fast becoming popular in our great public markets. To lovers of the very best things to eat they appeal the strongest. ; A: 19. IfI was to embark in market poultry raising I would take the variety that was best adapted for the locality into which I was going. If it was around New York I should take Orpingtons by all means, as they are in such demand. Boston is a great town for yellow skin and I should select some varieties like the Wyandottes or White Rocks for that locality, although I believe if Orpingtons were selected it would not be long before the market would find out their good qualities, and the up-to-date poultryman could get a better price than his neighbor who is breeding yellow skinned birds. A. 20. My reasons for these selections are purely business ones to make the most money where I can, by catering to the demand of the public. A. 21. I can only answer this question by stating that I am in both lines, and I breed nothing but Orpingtons. A. 22. My reason for this choice is that I have been very successful in the poultry business, and this is the reason of my holding to the Orpingtons exclusively. I formerly raised Games, Leghorns, Light Brahmas and Barred Plymouth Rocks. For the past five years my Orpington business has increased each year, therefore my choice of this breed is perfectly satisfactory to me. MORE ECONOMY TO BUY FOWLS ' COST OF ONE THOUSAND EGGS WILL PAY FOR STOCK THAT WILL PRO- DUCE THREE TIMES AS MANY W. R. CURTISS & CO., Ransomville, N. Y. SPECIALTY BREEDERS OF WHITE WYANDOTTES; SINGLE COMB LEGHORNS AND PEKIN DUCKS, t A. 9. Would buy fowls. A. 10. It is more economical. The same money you would invest in one thousand eggs will buy a pen that would 24 produce at least three times as many eggs of the same quality, and your eggs are fresh and will hatch better than eggs shipped from a distance. Eggs are a lottery; you do not know what you have till the season is over. A. 11. We do not believe in cross breeds. Get a pen of pure blood stock and get the mongrels off the place as soon as possible. It might pay to introduce males in a flock of mongrels, but a pen of good birds would not cost any more than pure-bred males for a big flock. A. 12. Buy a good pen of breeding stock; it is the best way to start. A. 13. We do not advise buying birds in a show room. Go to some good reliable breeder and pay him to mate a few pens that will produce just what you want. We believe a better start can be had this way than in any other; as in our way, it is up to the breeder to make good. He is responsible for what the stock breeds. A. 14. ,Go on a practical poultry plant, learn the busi- ness and get a position as manager. Would not advise starting in the poultry business without capital, unless it is to start small and work into it in connection with another business. A. 15. Secure a good reliable manager and be governed by his experience in building up the business. Experience is a great help and there is no chance of success without it. A. 16. Learn the business and be governed by circum- stances. No two men can make a success in just, the same way. A man must be adapted to the business to succeed. A. 17. Should breed White Wyandottes. A. 18. They are the most popular variety and easiest to breed right, as to standard requirements, less culls and more specimens that can be sold at a good figure to show or breed. A. 19.- Pekin Ducks, White Wyandottes for roasters, 8. C. White Leghorns for eggs and broilers. A. 20. Pekin Ducks are the most hardy and best sellers, with not so much risk of losses by disease and death. White Wyandottes are hardy, mature quickly, fatten easily, and look well dressed. Good White Leghorns lay white eggs of good size, lay well and make } to 1} lbs. weight, well feathered, more quickly than any other breed. _ A, 21. White Wyandottes, 8. C. White Leghorns, Mam- moth Pekin Ducks. A. 22. Pekins best for green ducks; Wyandotites best for crate-fattened roasters; Leghorns best for eggs, for market and squab broilers. BUY THE BEST BIRDS YOU CAN DON’T LET PRICE STAND IN THE WAY—GOOD BIRDS WELL MATED SAVE TIME, AND TIME IS MONEY . C. FISHEL & SON, Hope, Indiana. SPECIALTY BREEDERS OF WHITE WYANDOTTES A. 9. I would buy fowls, not eggs. A. 10. I believe I could get started in a much more satisfactory way and would get in the business much sooner. I do not fancy starting with eggs. I want to see the birds that lay the eggs and want.to know how they are mated. A. 11. By introducing some good, thrifty, pure-bred male birds a flock of mongrels can be wonderfully improved. A, 12, Buy a good pen, say 8 or 9 females and one male, properly mated. A pen poorly mated will disgust a beginner the first year. Watch that point. It is in.the mating. Of course you must have good blood back of the breeders. A. 13. Buy eggs of some responsible breeder who has STARTING IN THE BUSINESS won the prizes at the leading shows year after year, not from a breeder that has won say five or ten years ago and is still adver- tising the old winnings. A. 14. Buy the best birds you can buy; don’t let price be in the way. Remember your time is worth as much as your money and in mating means one years’ work gone. A. 15. Buy stock birds and good ones, also eggs. A. 16. Buy eggs from some responsible breeder. A. 17, White Wyandottes first and last. A. 18. They are the best general purpose fowl today. They are the best layers in the American class. They feather out nicely, and are always nice, plump birds at any age. A. 19. White Wyandottes. A. 20. Being a white bird they always demand the top price as market fowls. They mature as early as any American variety and earlier than some. A, 21, White Wyandottes. A. 22. I believe I could always sell the majority for fancy and in that way could realize a much better price. We have never yet been able to supply the demand. t EGGS A GOOD START MAN WITH SMALL MEANS SHOULD START BY BUYING EGGS—BIRDS WORTH $100.00 RAISED FROM $10.00 WORTH OF EGGS J. H. JACKSON, Hudson, Mass. SPECIALTY BREEDER OF WHITE WYANDOTTES A. 9. If I wanted high class show birds would get a few of the very best from a noted line breed strain. A. 10. I believe from my experience like begets like. A few good ones bred from fowls of many years good breeding are bound to give or produce several like themselves in a seasons’ breeding. In buying eggs you have to run more chances but the expense is not so large, and it is the best way for one that cannot afford to buy high class stock. I have seen birds well worth $100. raised from $10. worth of eggs. , A. 11. The best way would be to make:a deal with some good breeder for one hundred or more eggs at best price, which is much lower by one hundred lots than sittings. One season with fair results would give him a good flock if the eggs were from a good strain. He would be able to select a pen of large, vigorous and good laying birds to breed from another season for the best results. A. 12. Would recommend same course as given in answer to No. 11. Buy eggs from a noted strain that has been bred for egg production as well as fancy. Have them selected and mated by an expert. Show some of the best at local shows; it is a chance to compare them with others. When able to breed some good ones begin to advertise in a small way; a steady advertisement is best. A. 13. Buy some high class birds, not chance birds, but _fowls from a breeder of note that is able to breed high class standard specimens. Such a breeder will be able to furnish one with stock or eggs from time to time that will put the beginner in the front as a breeder and exhibitor of fancy fowls. If yards are limited chicks could be put out to raise with some farmers that can be depended upon to give them plenty of good food and free range. He could afford to pay more for this service than a farmer or his wife could get out of raising common farm fowls. A. 14. Buy a few, one or more sittings, from a reliable breeder of note and select only the very best, if only a pair. A sitting should produce one or more real good birds. I saw a f mate to a few of these pullets. 25 cockerel recently that colud not be bought for less than $50. that was raised from a sitting of eggs, and he was well worth the price to one that wants the best. A, 15. Buy a large number of eggs from several noted breeders and compare the results of the quality raised. A large number of chicks raised from each strain would soon prove which is the best and in a fair way. Engage an experienced poultryman to look after all details. A. 16. Buy as many eggs as your means would allow for raising chicks and other expenses. If satisfied that any one breeder would give him satisfaction or results wanted, place an order with that one. Lack of means does not allow as much experimental work as may be done by one with ample means. A. 17. White Wyandottes. A. 18. Because I believe them to be the best all purpose fowls. They make the best for market from a half-pound broiler to a medium-sized roaster, what the market demands at best prices. Always free from dark pin feathers, have rich, yellow skin and legs, deep, broad breast, very close comb; one of the best winter as well as summer layers of large brown eggs; a breed that has been well tried. A. 19. White Wyandottes. A. 20. They meet all the best market requirements. Would use a strain that has size as well as laying qualities. A, 21. White Wyandottes. A. 22. They are as large as fowls can be and still be active, and good layers must be active to be good layers and stand forcing. Also command best prices in market as broilers or roasters on account of shape of body. STUDY THE STANDARD READ LEADING POULTRY JOURNALS— GET AND BREED QUALITY—SHOW YOUR BEST—ATTEND THE SHOWS AND GET ADVICE FROM JUDGES AND BREEDERS EDWARD E. LING, South Portland, Me. WHITE WYANDOTTE SPECIALIST A. 9. Atrio, or breeding pen. A. 10. Would visit a reliable specialist of the breed I preferred. Would select the best trio or pen that I could induce him to sell me. If I could not buy the birds I wanted, would buy eggs from the best pen he would sell me eggs from, bearing in mind first, last and all the time, quality and not price. A. 11. Buy astandard-bred cockerel of any of the Ameri- can breeds you prefer and mate to a few of your best females. The second season select the best pullets from this mating and mate back to this cock bird, or preferably buy a cockerel and Each season select the best of their offspring of these matings for your breeding pens. A. 12. First subscribe for one or more leading poultry journals. Obtain a “Standard.” Study the section pertaining to the breed and variety you have selected. Visit the yards of a successful specialist of the variety you desire. Obtain a trio of good standard line-bred birds, or, if you prefer, as good eggs as he will sell you. If you have studied your Standard carefully, you will be able to select your best birds for your breeders. Reject such birds as show serious defects, as deformities or weakness. Take your best birds to some of the fairs and poultry shows. Even if you do not win you will know what the judges think of your birds. Try each year to remedy defects and mate more carefully. A. 13. Subscribe for one or more of the leading poultry journals. Buy a Standard of Perfection. Study both care- SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEPING fully. Buy a nice breeding pen from some specialist of the breed preferred. Have him mate the birds for you, which is very important. Tell him frankly that you are a beginner and if he is honest he will be glad to help you get results, for if you are pleased you will be more than likely to tell your friends, which in turn helps the specialist. Have a judge or specialist select your exhibition birds and also mate your- breeding pens. Send your best birds to the shows, even if you do not win you have a chance to compare your birds with other good birds. If a score card show, you can learn much by studying the de- fects; try and overcome them in your next year’s matings. A. 14. Invest in one or two good poultry journals, also a Standard of Perfection. Study carefully the breed you prefer. Buy one or more sittings of eggs from a specialist in the breed you desire. Select a fancier that you believe breeds the birds he exhibits. A. 15. Same as answers to Nos. 13 and 14. A. 16. Would buy eggs from a specialist in the breed I desired. Would if possible obtain the assistance of some suc- cessful fancier in selecting my birds both for exhibition and breeding pens. Have them assist in mating the breeding pens. Obtain a Standard of Perfection and become familiar with the breed that you intended to keep. Cull faithfully and look care- fully to the same details. A. 17. White Wyandottes. A, 18. First: They have been more successful with me. Second: Because the demand for White Wyandottes is not confined to any one section or state, but extends all over the country, and high class birds find ready buyers. Third: If the number of birds exhibited at nearly all the leading shows means anything, they are by far the most popular variety today. Fourth: They combine both fancy and general utility and they have the largest Specialty Club in America behind them. Fifth: They have built me up a prosperous, fancy poultry business from a single investment of $5.00 in eggs, my original capital invested. A. 19. White Wyandottes. A. 20. They can be marketed at top prices from an eight-ounce squab broiler to a large roaster. T have, today, cockerels a few days under six months old that weigh 84 lbs. strong, and some that weigh from 7 to 7} lbs. They will stand heavy feeding without losing use of legs, and with their plump, stocky bodies, are nearly always ready for market. A, 21. White Wyandottes. A. 22. Because I believe no breeds or varieties stand so high for a combination of both fancy and market qualities as the American breeds, and I consider White Wyandottes at the head of the class. BUY BREEDING STOCK EARLY FALL OR EARLY WINTER BEST TIME TO START—GIVES TIME TO KNOW FLOCK AND LEARN SUCCESSFUL MANAGEMENT N. V. FOGG, Mt. Sterling, Ky. SINGLE COMB WHITE LEGHORN SPECIALIST A. 9. I would buy fowls in the fall or early winter. A. 10. By buying a small flock of good birds in the fall one can feed and care for them during the winter and gain a great deal of practical experience, which is very valuable to anyone in the poultry business. Feeding and caring for the breeding stock during the breed- ing season will give some good ideas for feeding and caring for the young birds. If one is successful in raising the young birds he will have a good sized flock for the next winter and by caring for the small flock the winter before he will know better what the fowls need, and thus will not make the mistakes on the large flock that he made on the small one. By buying stock from a reliable breeder the birds will be mated as they should be and the owner will get better results. A. 11. First of all, get him to realize the value of good, warm, well-ventilated houses in which to care for his birds. Dispose of the three, four and five-year-old hens and the cock birds, retaining a good flock ofthis best young hens. Buy a few pure-bred male birds to mate with the hens, also buy a few sittings of eggs of the one variety best suited to his purpose. A, 12. I would advise him to keep only one breed and give the pullets and hens free range. Be careful that everything is clean about the place. Would keep the cocks and cockerels in a nice grassy yard of good size. If he is going to raise many young birds would advise him to use the very best incubators and brooders, as they are better than the natural method when many young birds are raised. If he has many fowls to sell or is going to sell eggs for hatching during the breeding season, would advise him to ad- vertise in a small way at first and advertise more as he has birds or eggs to sell. If for market, furnish a choice article, delivering it to your consumer direct for a fancy price. , A. 13. After deciding on the variety which he wishes to breed I would suggest that he purchase a high-scoring pen properly mated from a reliable breeder. He should have a small incubator and a sufficient number of brooders to properly care for the chicks, which should have plenty of room. He should take one of the best poultry journals and more if he has the time to read them; also read the writings of the best writers of poultry subjects. All his houses should be modern. For feeding the chicks, growing and breeding stock would advise the use of the very best feeds. A. 14. Would recommend to the beginner with small means, that he fitx a house that is warm and has plenty of venti- lat ion, with as litle cost as possible, and then buy a few common hens to use to incubate the eggs which he buys during the breed- ing season. After deciding on the variety he wishes to breed, buy some eggs for hatching from some of the best breeders, get eggs from as good breeding stock as he can afford to buy. If he intends to show at any of the fall shows would advise buying some eggs early in the season so as to have birds ready for these shows. A. 15. First of all, he should locate as near as possible to a high class market with good shipping facilities and grain markets. He should find if possible a farm with a good location for poultry houses. I would prefer land that is rolling with drainage toward the south; this will let all the poultry houses face the south, as they should be to get the best results. The farm should be high and dry with a good water supply. One starting the business on a large scale should get a farm large enough to raise feed for his birds; all buildings should be modern and as convenient as possible so as to save labor. He should have one to help him who has a thorough knowledge of the business. A. 16. He should consider market, location, and get as large a farm as he can afford so he may raise products that will help to pay for the farm. His houses should be warm and as convenient as possible. If he can not have a man with him that knows the business would advise him to get the very best books and read them carefully; also not to go into the business too fast, study your business and add more to the plant as you think best. A. 17. Single Comb White Leghorns. A. 18. I have bred several different breeds and find the 8. C. White Leghorn comes nearer my ideal than any other; 26 STARTING IN THE BUSINESS high scoring birds are sold for high prices. There is always a good demand for breeding birds. All pullets that can be raised will bring extra good prices if sold as layers. The S. C. White Leghorns, are coming to the front fast; they are active, fine layers, very hardy, mature early and always present an attractive appearance. STUDY YOUR BREED BUILD UP THE FLOCK—SHOW—AD- VERTISE—AS BUSINESS GROWS LET THE ADVERTISEMENTS GROW ALSO B. S. HUME, French Village, IIl. WHITE WYANDOTTE SPECIALIST A, 9. Fowls. A. 10. Because eggs are so uncertain and when you buy fowls you know just what you are getting. A. 11. By placing White Wyandotte males with his flock thereby infusing new blood year by year, building up his flock, enabling him to have more and better poultry. A. 12. Buy a lot of graded utility White Wyandotte females and buy several high grade males to mate with them, and as soon as this is begun he must commence to advertise. A. 13. Go to some reliable breeder who has plenty of good birds for sale, and pay him the price. He will tell you how to mate for best results. But before doing this make up your mind as to what breed would be most satisfactory, and A PORTABLE HOUSE USED FOR REARING CHICKENS study their habits. Let the public know what you have, through the poultzy journals. Be honest and upright in your dealings and success will be your reward. A. 14. Buy a trio of good birds as cheap as you can get them, and study their qualities. Insert a classified advertise- ment in a poultry paper after one year’s experienee. As your business grows let your advertising grow also. If you have a poultry show nearby, show your birds. Nothing will teach you the fine points of an exhibition bird as experience in the show room will. shh : 27 A. 17. White Wyandottes. A. 18. Because I think they are the best all purpose fowl before the public today. As table fowl they are not ex- celled by any other variety. For hardiness they stand the test in both hot and cold weather. As prolific layers, they are in a class by themselves. GET AND KEEP THE BEST CHOICE SPECIMENS WILL SERVE FOR SHOW, SALE AND BREEDING—CULLS SELL READ- ILY IN THE MARKET—FOWLS PREFERRED TO EGGS FOR’ START—‘‘GO SLOW.” G. W. BROWN, Camden, Arkansas BREEDER OF WHITE WYANDOTTES. BARRED ROCKS, INDIAN GAMES. BUFF COCHINS. LIGHT BRAHMAS, LECHORNS. PIT GAMES, WILD AND BRONZE TURKEYS A. 9. I would buy the fowls by all means. A. 10. In buying eggs we take many chances of getting poor results, as many things can keep eggs from hatching. I would buy of an honest breeder, who could be trusted and who by his show record had proven the quality of his breed, and have him select and mate up for me each bird in line the very same as he would breed them himself. A, 11. Simply to improve common stock for the market, my advice to the farmer or poultryman is to get good, large, strong, well bred males each year, improving and bringing the stock up to the desired qualities. A. 12. To breed fancy poultry as well as market stock, my advice would be to get a pen of some American variety, and buy the very best line-bred blood to be had, urging the breeder to use his best judgment in selecting and mating them the same as for himself. All the choice specimens raised can be sold fog fancy breeding or exhibition, while the culls can be readily sold on the market. No matter how fine the quality may be, there will be many unfit for anything but the market. With the best a fine strain can soon be built up, getting the cream of the fancy as well as market business. A. 18. Buy the very best line-bred blood to be had from a breeder that will select and mate them in line, just as the birds were bred. Don’t buy too many birds, no matter how much cash you may have, for first you must go slow, and pre- pare yourself to handle the stock. Jumping in the poultry business, with plenty of cash and no experience, is the cause of many failures. A. 14. If I had but little money, the larger part of it would go toward buying the very best line-bred blood to be had and a good cheap, comfortable home for the birds. Then, in- stead of buying quantity, get quality every time, as a choice trio of birds at $25. to $50. is far better than a score of poor birds at the same price. A. 15. With ample funds, go slow and buy the very best. Employ men of experience and study the work night and day. Go slow and watch and study as you go, and success will crown your efforts. A. 16. Buy the best if only a very few, and try to build a foundation with the best blood, then study the work, and enlarge the business as the means and experience will justify. No matter how much or how little cash we may have, all depends on our experience and knowledge of the business, just as in all other work. No one could jump into any business without experience and ever hope to make a success. All large industries have been built up slowly and have had men of experience at »the helm. SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEPING A. 17. I have bred over 40 varieties of poultry, and after four years of close attention and study, began to cull out, keeping only what I found to be in the greatest demand, the best all round combination birds. Of all the best, my choice would be the Barred Rocks and White Wyandottes. A, 18. They are in the greatest demand and combine, nearer than any other varieties, all the good qualities; being the best of table fowls as well as egg producers, and a great farmer’s and fancier’s fowl. _ A. 19. White Wyandottes. A, 20. They mature quicker and make a large early bird, and are easily dressed for market. They have a very choice quality of flesh as well as the best appearance. A. 21. Barred Rocks and White Wyandottes. A. 22. The Barred Rocks as a fancier’s fowl, bring the best prices and are in the greatest demand. White Wyandottes are also a great fancier’s fowl, as well as the best of market fowls. DISPOSE OF ALL MONGRELS BOTH TIME AND MONEY ARE LOST TRYING TO IMPROVE MONGRELS—GET PURE-BREDS CHARLES E. VASS, Washington, N. J. BREEDER OF SINGLE AND ROSE COMB BUFF ORPINGTONS. AND SINGLE COMB WHITE AND BLACK ORPINGTONS A. 9. I would buy choice fowls, if only a pair. A. 10. In buying eggs the different climates oftimes prove a detriment to a satisfactory hatch, which is very dis- couraging to both buyer and seller. If stock is purchased one is not buying something he has not seen, and as a rule promi- nent poultrymen assure the buyer satisfaction. A. 11. Farmers lose both time and money in trying to improve a flock of mongrels. Better dispose of all mongrels and purchase a pen of pure-breds. Any of the heavy varieties, especially the Orpington, make excellent market fowls. Farmers should remember that clean legged fowls are the most eagerly sought after. A, 12, Fancy and utility are profitable if one is competent to select the prize birds at the proper age. I would suggest that all birds pot intended for breeders, especially males be marketed when six to eight weeks old in order to secure the highest market prices for broilers and to give more room for the growing prize birds. é A. 13. First and most important of all is a proper loca- tion; one should be selected with a slight slope to the south and gravel soil if possible. The second consideration should be the buildings; there has been a great deal of stress laid on buildings. One that suits the writer best is a building not over 30 feet in length divided into three pens each, and as many of this kind as necessary. Third, look up a breeder of sound reputation who has a good show record and is a specialist, and purchase your choice of the 70 or 80 varieties. A. 14. One with limited means should go very slow. Better start with a pair of first class specimens and study your birds from year to year, than to invest too heavily and fail with an utter disgust for the poultry business. A. 17. Single or Rose Comb Buff, White or Black Or- pingtons. ce A. 18. The Orpingtons being a new variety, combining qualities for both the fancy and utility side of the business, are eagerly sought after. They are grand layers and a desirable table fowl as well as being among the foremost at our leading exhibitions. A. 19. Buff Orpingtons. / A. 20. Always ready for market from six weeks on being plump and juicy. - BEGIN WITH YEARLING HENS MORE ECONOMICAL—QUALITY KNOWN FROM FIRST—EGGS FOR HATCHING AN UNKNOWN QUANTITY — PRACTI- CAL ADVICE FOR THE FARMER ALBERT F. DIKEMAN, South Peabody, Mass. SPECIALTY BREEDER OF WHITE WYANDOTTES AND WHITE PLYMOUTH ROCKS A. 9. Fowls, consisting of yearling hens and a good cockerel. A, 10. Fowls are more economical,—the quality can be determined as soon as bought. Eggs bought for hatching are an unknown quantity. The best might be paid for, while the quality of them would depend entirely on the integrity of the breeder from whom they were purchased. I would prefer to put my money into a few fine specimens rather than to see how many the same money would buy. In buying eggs I would be obliged to lose a whole season before seeing any results and, even then, might have to start all over again. A. 11. Select the best hens, on the farm, that nearest conform to the size and color of flesh and leg that his market demands. From these select those most uniform in color. Buy enough good, pure-bred cockerels of any one variety that are nearest in shape and color to the hens. From the progeny mate the cocks (cockerels bought previous season) to the pullets that nearest approach the females of the cock’s variety in shape and color. Mate the best cockerels back to the hens. This makes the second seasons’ chicks ? of the blood bought, and gives the quickest and best start possible without first buying all pure blood. _ A, 12. Buy as many good birds as his means will permit. Select the breed or variety, within the range of his market requirements, that appeals to him most. The second season mate the best cocks back to their best pullets and the cockerels back to their dams. When in need of new blood go to the 28 breeder from whom the first purchase was made. Don’t try to improve your stock by buying males from a different strain, as the usual result is a lot of culls caused by too violent crossing of alien strains. A, 13, Attend all the representative shows that you can during the season previous to your starting in the busi-. ness. Select the breed or variety that you like best. Question ‘breeders and judges closely; make notes of their answers. Be governed by the preponderance of this cumulative evidence. Select a breeder in whom you can place confidence and allow him to select the stock and mate it for you. Buy the best he has if he will sell it. Buy a “Standard” before you buy your stock. Make yourself familiar with, at least, that part of it that describes the particular kind that you are to purchase. Stick to the breeder from whom you first bought and if you want to make a change clean out all of his strain and try a new one. It is only by breeding birds in line that the best results are obtained in raising exhibition poultry. A. 14. Buy a trio of the best your means will permit, then proceed as in answer to question No. 13. A. 15. Buy the best to be obtained of the breed or variety that, within your market requirements, best suits you, weight, color of feathers, skin and legs, being given due con- sideration. Mate and breed as in answer to question No. 13. Always select the most vigorous, up to weight specimens, with STARTING IN THE BUSINESS due regard for shape and color. Use plenty of printer’s ink (advertising) and show every where possible. These two re- quirements are absolutely essential to success. A. 16. Hire out for at least a year, and this would be much better with some progressive plant. When you think you have mastered the general principles of mating, breeding and raising, put all the cash you can spare into the best stock obtainable, then proceed as in answer to No. 15. A. 17. First: White Wyandottes; Second: White Ply- mouth Rocks; Third: Rhode Island Reds. A. 18. White Wyandottes are the most popular show birds today. If they should cease to be such they would still be the best “general purpose” fowl, being always plump, lay large brown eggs, and mature quicker than the Rocks. White Plymouth Rocks second, for the reason that they make a larger soft roaster than either of the other two. The Reds are persis- tent layers but are very prone to go broody besides having black pin feathers when in the broiler stage of growth. White Wyandottes are fit to kill at any time after they are four weeks old, and do not show such long legs and neck, when dressed, as do the Rocks. A. 19. White Wyandottes. A. 20. Quick maturity, preponderance of breast meat, prolific layers of good sized brown eggs, tractability when in- cubating eggs, quiet, gentle mothers. Always command the top price in the market either for eggs or meat. A. 21. White Wyandottes, Rhode Island Reds. A, 22. White Wyandottes for fancy and market, Reds for winter eggs. The Reds have a heavier coat of feathers, making them able to withstand extreme cold better than any other American variety. Are made up of three or four different breeds, thus insuring great vitality. START WITH A SMALL FLOCK INCREASE AS FAST AS MEANS PERMIT— EXHIBIT AT LOCAL SHOWS—ADVERTISE ROWLAND G. BUFFINGTON, Somerset, Mass. SPECIALTY BREEDER OF WYANDOTTES. BUFF, SILVER PENCILED AND COLUMBIAN; PLYMOUTH ROCKS, BUFF AND PARTRIDGE; BUFF ORPINGTONS; R. I. REDS. WHITE AND PARTRIDGE COCHIN BANTAMS A. 9. Fowls. A. 10. We could begin to do business sooner. A small flock of fowls bought early in the season and all eggs hatched until first of July would, if we had fairly good success in raising, give us quite a large flock for business the next season. A. 11. I would advise the farmer to do just as I would do, purchase a flock of the breed desired and raise all he could the first season. Another course might be advisable,—buy male of pure blood aud cross with the mongrel hens. A. 12. Do as advised in No. 11, only purchase some of the best blooded stock and he will have fancy poultry and im- prove the market poultry as well. A. 14. Without much money to invest, the best plan would be to begin with one variety on a small scale in connec- tion with some other business and increase the poultry part as fast as means would permit. Show some birds at local shaws; advertise sparingly at first and increase as you have goods to sell, A. 15. The first course for such a beginner is to learn the business, as it is impossible to get any one to do it for him without spending $5. to get $2: A. 17. Buff Plymouth Rocks, Buff Wyandottes and Buff Leghorns. 29 A. 18. While some of the other American breeds may be equally as good for market poultry, no breed will equal them for egg production. The Buff Leghorns are hardy, large size, lay a large egg. Some of the other varieties of Leghorn may have these good qualities. I prefer them on account of color. A. 19. I should have to experiment some with crosses to decide this question. KEEP PURE-BREDS MORE SATISFACTORY THAN CROSSES—DON’T SELL BIRDS YOU CAN’T REPLACE FOR THE MONEY W. B. CANDEE, De Witt, N. Y. WHITE WYANDOTTE SPECIALIST A. 9. Fowls. A. 10. Results much more certain, that is your eggs would be better than those bought. Advantage of seeing just what you are breeding from. A. 11. For the farmer, buy a good sitting of eggs, put. them under a hen, mark the chicks, get a good man to sort them in the fall. Keep the best cockerel, mate him to the pullets that are not disqualified, set all eggs the following spring, have them sorted that fall again, by which time he should begin to learn what a good one is; then he can do his own sorting. The next spring get a cock or cockerel from the same party from which he purchased the eggs, and mate him to a small pen of AN EXCELLENT BROOD COOP AND RUN the very best females. Keep only pure-breds; do not cross. In time he can kill all the mongrels and he will have a flock that will be more satisfactory than if he undertakes to cross up with pure-breds. A. 12. Same as No. 11. A. 14. Same as No. 11 for his birds. Build a small colony house, say 8 by 10, or 10 by 12, and use as a breeding house. Then as he goes on if he wants to build a large housefhe could use the small one for a chick colony house, or if he decides to quit he has not lost a small fortune in the business. A. 15. Get an expert to lay out a good sensible plant and let the same man, if he is a good judge of birds, go to some reliable breeder and select as many good birds as the beginner wishes to buy. Put these in the new house with a competent. man to take care of them. Use all eggs for hatching and keep SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEPING all the young birds until the required number is reached. Don’t sell what you can’t replace for the money, no matter how flatter- ing the offer. A. 16. Same as answer to No. 11, but buy both eggs and a good pen and follow advice given in answer to No. 15. A. 17. White Wyandottes. A. 18. Popular, good sellers, good mothers, and market birds for the farmer, or for the one wishing to keep only a few birds good broilers and roasters, and will lay eggs in winter if properly bred, hatched and cared for. Attractive in appearance, stand confinement, are not flyers, will stand severe cold, and when ready to sell at market prices, they bring good prices. A. 19. White Wyandottes. A. 20. Same as answer to No. 18. VISIT THE SHOWS AND BREEDERS STUDY YOUR CHOSEN VARIETY—ONE IS ENOUGH— KEEP ONLY THE BEST—MARKET THE BALANCE GEORGE A. BARROWS, Groton, N. Y. SINGLE COMB WHITE LEGHORN SPECIALIST A. 9. I should buy fowls. A. 10. With my present knowledge I believe that I could buy fowls that would suit me and therefore get a quicker start than I could with eggs and be more certain of having good stock. : A, 11. My advice would be to discard the mongrels entirely and start with pure-bred stock. A. 12. I would advise the purchase of a pen of the very best birds that could be found of some one of the large breeds. If the object is to sell fancy poultry, my advice is to buy the yery best birds that can be found regardless of cost. A. 13. If I were a beginner with ample funds the first thing I should do would be to decide on what one breed (not several) I most desired and why. Second: I would then study that breed from the “Standard” and would visit several shows and make it a point to study the variety I desired. Third: I should then visit several of the reliable breeders of my chosen variety and if possible take a competent judge with me. Fourth: I should buy a few of the best specimens that I could find regardless of cost, but in buying I should buy from the flock that was the best as a whole, and not from the flock that had a few fine specimens but as a whole was inferior. ‘Fifth: After buying I should make that variety a constant study. A. 14, The beginner without much money would have to study his chosen variety but probably visit less shows, less breeders and do without a judge. He would do well to pick out the breeder that he had the most confidence in and then trust him to furnish him some of his very best eggs or a few birds. I think a few eggs would be the best and then let him study the birds as they grow up. A. 15. I should advise one variety for both fancy and market, and with ample funds would purchase as many birds as I desired of one of the large varieties, all good stock. As I bred them year by year I should keep only the best from which to sell fancy birds and market the balance. A. 16. The beginner with mcderate means would prob- ably do better to purchase eggs of some large variety, buying only as many as his money will care for, feed, and house after hatched. Then as his sales of eggs and market poultry and fancy stock come along he can enlarge his business. A. 17. White Leghorns. 30 A. 18. I believe 8. C. White Leghorns to be the best breed for laying purposes, also to be the. most popular breed of heavy layers of large white eggs. A. 19. Probably White Plymouth Rocks. A. 20. First: I have taken a fancy to this particulas variety of large fowls. Second: They are among the most popular breeds. A. 21. White Rocks or White Wyandottes. A, 22. Simply a liking for these kinds. START WITH WELL MATED FOWLS THEN CAN SEE AND KNOW QUALITY—RAISE PURE-BREDS H. H. FIKE, Libertyville, Illinois. WHITE WYANDOTTE SPECIALIST A. 9. Fowls by all means. A. 10. Could see the quality of fowls and know what I had. If I bought eggs they might be from a dozen different pens of stock not mated properly, and it would take me years to breed up. A. 11. Sell off all mongrel stock, and raise full blood White Wyandottes. A. 12. Same answer as No. 11. market poultry. A. 13. Buy birds from a known breeder, and pay at least $25. to $50. per bird. ; A. 14. Buy just as good birds. with one pair. Selling the culls for If compelled to, start °A. 15. The two don’t go together on a large scale; fancy and market cannot be combined and run on a large scale pro- fitably. A. 16. Don’t start at all. A. 17. White Wyandottes. A. 18. Because ‘they are as salable as twenty dollar gold pieces. The demand is far greater than the supply for top notchers. A. 19. White Wyandottes. A. 20. Can be brought to broiler age sooner than any other breed, market price. their yellow skin and legs commanding highest GET A GOOD FOUNDATION WORK CONSTANTLY FOR BETTER POUL- TRY AND MORE OF IT—HAVE FAITH IN YOUR FLOCK—CULL THE YEAR ROUND WILLIAM H. ROBINSON, La Fayette, Ind. BREEDER OF BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCKS AND WHITE WYANDOTTES A. 9. I would buy fowls, a few, and the best. A. 10. With eggs you cannot see what your stock is until matured; when buying stock you can buy on approval from most any reliable breeder and if not satisfactory it may be returned for good stock or money refunded. When starting with the fowls you have a good foundation to begin with, and can see what your coming youngsters, if properly cared for, will develop into when matured. A. 11. “Would cull quite severely to my best stock in one and two-year-old females, throwing out all male birds, and buy STARTING IN THE BUSINESS from a reliable breeder some good pure-bred cockerels which would not require nearly as many as to buy the females. In this way and by constantly introducing new blood by pure-bred male birds, a good flock of farm poultry can be secured. A. 12. Work himself constantly to “better poultry and more of it,” buy nothing but the best blood, advertise, and ad- vertise the best, have faith in your flock; if you do not, your neighbor certainly will not and will look elsewhere. Cull almost the year round, keep your flock looking well and vigorous, and you will be surprised how your surplus cockerels will sell. A. 13. From experience, would work slow, keep but a few, but the best your means would permit, do not house too many in your coops or buildings, breed for constitutional vigor, and breed for exhibition specimens only; this you will gain only by a limited number, proper housing, and care and feeding. Advertise moderately, and strive to make every sale far or near a satisfied customer. Time and stock will tell. Guarantee your birds in every way, or in other words, give good value for value received, and success is bound to crown your efforts. Also will say, do not be afraid to show your stock in good company; often times we find them no better or as good, in what is called the hottest company. A. 14. Answered in above. A. ‘15. Have buildings and poultry in accordance with funds and advertise largely, using the best journals, the best of stock, and good sound judgment, both with your poultry as well as your customers. A. 16. Breed the best, cull closely for your market poultry, cull almost constantly, then breed and sell only the best. Advertise by all means in good journals; you can throw hard _ earned money away no faster than by poor advertising in poor journals, to say nothing of postage and time. A. 17. Almost any of the Plymouth Rocks or yee dottes, or a breed that is in big demand. A. 18. My reason is that a good, well known breed is always in good demand, and with any article that is in good demand « good business can be done with less introducing and advertising. A. 19. Can be answered as above, although the old re- liable Barred: Plymouth Rocks I believe are the leaders. A. 20. Because they are known the world over, are beautiful fowls, are admired by everybody, are ready for market at most any age, will stand confinement well when necessary, are truly an American breed; others have their fancy and come and go, but the old reliable Barred Plymouth Rock is in the lead and are the best general purpose fowl in the world. A. 21. Barred Plymouth Rocks and White Wyandottes. A. 22. Barred Plymouth Rocks, as I have said before, are the old reliable for market or show room. Next to them in many years experience I have found no fowl more profitable or more beautiful as show birds than White Wyandottes. “MAKE HASTE SLOWLY”’ GET THE BEST—CULL CLOSELY— STUDY STANDARD — ADVERTISE GUS L. HAINLINE, Lamar, Missouri WHITE WYANDOTTE SPECIALIST A. 9, I would buy fowls. A. 10. I would know just what type of fowl I wanted and what kind of mating would produce it and get that mating; while there would be a good deal of uncertainty in the hatch of a large consignment of eggs. “A house built on a good rock foundation will stand.” 31 plump, round appearance. A. 11. Would advise the buying of medium grade cock- erels of some fancier that had a reputation for good fowls; and unless his mongrels showed decided ‘‘Asiatic”’ type, 1 would advise Wyandotte cockerels, as they are, I believe, the best foragers in the world and they make the best broilers. A. 12. Choose his breed; buy as good a pen as he could afford, or get; yard them, and raise every chick possible from them; keep all pullets raised, sell off all mixed cocks and cock- erels and put the pure stock cockerels in with mixed stock; mate up the best birds again and hatch their eggs and sell others on market. When stocked up, get a good judge to score surplus stock, advertise in the best journal published, cull closely, and treat customers on the square. A. 13. Buy a copy of the “Standard.’’ Choose a good reliable breeder; get the best he will sell right; have him ship them to a good judge for inspection; raise all you can; make haste slowly, study your fowls, advertise and sell surplus cock- erels, don’t let go of your good pullets. A. 17. Partridge Wyandottes. A. 18. They are the ideal fancier’s fowl and their popu- larity is increasing rapidly; they are as yet in a crude state and will admit of wonderful development and improvement. A. 19. White Wyandottes. A. 20. They make the best broilers in the world; dress very nicely with clean, yellow skin and legs; ideal shape, with They are fine rustlers, healthy, bear confinement, and their white plumage and altogether pretty, appearance would enable one to get the highest market price for them alive. SEE WHAT YOU ARE GETTING THEN YOU KNOW WHAT TO EXPECT— FOWLS BEST FOR START—START WITH A FEW AND HAVE THEM ALL GOOD J. L. JEFFERSON, Des Plaines, Ill. WHITE PLYMOUTH ROCK SPECIALIST A. 9. I would buy fowls. A. 10. In buying fowls, you can see what you are getting, and have some jdea what to expect from them. A. 11. By getting pure-bred males. A. 12. By getting a pen of good birds for a starter and then, after the first year, sell off all his mongrels. A. 13. By buying the best pen that can be found, in other words, go to the best breeder of the variety that he wishes to handle, and buy if possible the best he has, or the very ones the breeder wishes to keep for his own use, regardless of the price. Get few birds, but have them all good. Have them resemble one another, and come as near to the Standard as possible. A. 14. Buy the best pen his circumstances will permit; if he is not a good judge of the breed, trust to the honesty of the breeder. If he knows the breed, go to the breeder’s yards and do his own selecting. Always go to the breeder’s yards if possible, as there is where you will find out how his flock aver- ages as a whole. A. 15. Buy the best pen possible regardless of every- thing, but see what you are buying if possible. Perhaps a better way would be to buy say three pens from three of the best breeders, breed each pen separately, and then keep only the birds from the pen that turned out the best, and sell off all the others. Stick to this strain and this man for new blood. Ad- vertise and show; the more you advertise and show the quicker you will get a good paying business, but do not be afraid to SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEPING spend money for advertising. Advertise all the time, and never stop showing. Don’t be afraid of getting beaten at a show after you have made a good winning at a few shows. You must expect that as no one breeder has all the good birds, you must not expect to win all the time. It won’t hurt your business half as much to get beaten as not to show at all. Get your name before the people in all the ways possible. Advertise in all ways that you can think of, but the poultry. journals are the “main. stays.” A. 16. Buy the best pen you can afford, and go slow, learn the business from the ground up, and learn it well. Don’t depend on some one else to raise the chicks for you, for if you can’t raise them or don’t know how to do it, you may depend on it that you can not hire some one else to raise them. Have never yet seen a plant pay where the owner had to hire some one to do the work, that is, do all parts of the work. You may be able to hire a man to clean the houses, water the chickens, etc., but what would he do when it came to running a brooder and feeding the little chicks? This work should all be done by yourself, if you wish to succeed.’ A. 17. White Rocks or Wyandottes. A. 18. There is more demand for these two breeds than any others. You will find more of them in the show room. They are the best market fowl, and best layers taking the year through. A. 19. White Wyandottes. A. 20. They mature the earliest of the Americans, they start laying before they are six months old, they are the best broilers at an earlier age, and they are very hardy. A. 21. White Rocks or White Wyandottes. A. 22. These two breeds are in as large a demand as any others if not larger, for the fancy part, and they both dress right for the market, both are good size for that purpose, and plump out well at all ages. FOWLS AND EGGS FIFTY EGGS HATCHED OUGHT TO GIVE TWO GOOD PENS D. F. PALMER & SON, Yorkville, Ill. BREEDERS OF BARRED ROCKS EXCLUSIVELY A. 9. Fowls, if I had plenty of money. A. 10. Then I would know the quality of stock I was going to breed from. If I was to buy eggs I would not buy less than 50 and would be well pleased if I raised two pens of five birds each. A. 11. Buy large, vigorous cockerels. A. 12. Commence by buying a few good birds or eggs and work up. A. 13. Buy the best you can find. A, 14. Buy 100 eggs of a good breeder. A. 15. As the good breeders go into winter quarters most of them have some good bargains that could be bought at a reasonable price, which if properly mated will soon breed up some choice birds. A. 16. Same as Nos. 14 and 15. A, 17. Barred Plymouth Rocks. ; A. 18. They are very hardy and good foragers; we con- sider there are no better layers. 19. Barred Plymouth Rocks. 20. We consider them the best in all respects. 21. Barred Plyriouth Rocks. 22. Same as No. 20. a taal 32 BREED ONLY ONE VARIETY START OFF .CAREFULLY UNTIL EXPERIENCE IS GAINED—‘‘LEARN TO CREEP BEFORE WALKING” DR. WILLIAM H. HUMISTON, Cleveland, O. WHITE WYANDOTTE SPECIALIST A. 9. Itis best to purchase fowls. A. 10, In purchasing fowls you can select nearly ideaB birds, standard weight or a little above, and those possessing. shape, color, health and vigor. Buy a pen of six or eight hens. one year old, and mate them with an early hatched, full weight,. vigorous cockerel. In this way you can the first season obtain a good start and raise at least 100 birds. A. il. Purchase a male bird for every twelve females. Select over weight White Wyandotte males. A. 12. Keep but one variety. Get a start by securing: White Wyandottes from a. winter laying strain. They make choice early broilers, excellent soft roasters, dress attractively, no dark pin feathers, have yellow skin and legs. Market the- culls and obtain fancy prices for the balance. ‘A, 13. Breed only one variety, and secure the stock from a successful breeder who has a reputation for square deal- ing and whose stock has won at the leading shows, and is line bred. . A. 14. It is better to start off carefully until experience has been gained. Secure only a few, but high class birds. A. 15. It cannot be done successfully without practical knowledge and experience.. He must purchase this by securing, an honest, experienced, hard working man to take charge of the business. A. 16. Learn to creep before walking, that is, go slowly until knowledge of the business is attained. A. 17. White Wyandottes. A, 18. Beauty and utility. A. 19, One ofthe American breeds, Wyandottes or Rocks. A. 20. Early development, attractiveness when dressed, and size. A. 21. White Wyandottes in country, Buff or Partridge for city. A. 22. See answer to No. 18. UNDERSTAND YOUR FOWLS SUCCESS MORE CERTAIN WITH BIRDS YOU ADMIRE G. MONROE WOOD, Woouville, N. Y. BREEDER OF SINGLE COMB WHITE LEGHORNS A. 9. Fowls. A. 10. I would care for a flock of hens in a way so that I would get good fertile eggs and lots of them. A. 11. I would buy pure-bred males of some good re- liable poultryman. In the fall I would sort out the best pullets and the next spring I would mate these pullets to the same cocks, their fathers, also the cockerels to their mothers; that would give you well bred stock in a little time. A. 12, Same as No. 11. A. 18. I would buy fowls or eggs, or both, from some good reliable and successful fancier. A. 17. White Leghorns. A. 18. After having and taking care of a strain of poultry STARTING IN THE BUSINESS that you admire, and understanding their ways and habits, you would be liable to be more successful with them than with some strain you did not fully understand. A. 19. I would select White Wyandottes, White Rocks or Light Brahmas. A. 20. They are larger and more adapted to broilers and toasters than the lighter breeds. GO SLOW UNTIL YOU LEARN DON’T TRY TO DO IT ALL FIRST SEA- SON— THE BUSINESS WELL LEARNED ANYONE CAN SUCCEED AND PROSPER CHARLES G. PAPE, Fort Wayne, Indiana SPECIALTY BREEDER OF SINGLE COMB BLACK MINORCAS A. 9. Prefer to buy fowls. A. 10. Buying fowls—seeing them before buying if pos- sible—is more satisfactory both to the breeder as well as pur- chaser. If the eggs do not hatch well the blame is always placed on the breeder personally. The trip or transit is hardly ever taken into consideration where they get rough usage, and some- times get overheated in express car or chilled on track. A. 11. Dispose of the smaller stock and buy several good, vigorous cock birds of a breed known either for their laying or table qualities—whichever the farmer prefers. A, 12. The farmer certainly has the best opportunity for breeding and selling fancy poultry—plenty of greens and grain. It is an easy matter to breed fancy poultry, breed several CANVAS SHELTERS FOR BROOD COOPS pens carefully and intelligently until you learn the variety thoroughly that one intends to breed. If for fancy stock, get them in show shape by careful feeding and training and en- deavor to win several good prizes. Advertise in a good poultry paper what you have for sale, be honest and liberal in your dealings and you will succeed if you keep stock and surround- ings clean. A. 18. Study several preferred varieties that the beginner thinks he would like to breed.. By breeding them several years he will readily find which variety he thinks is best adapted to the surroundings, and which breed can be bred with the least trouble and expense. Stick to the variety, take advantage of every opportunity to improve the strain, and your stock will soon be in demand. 33 A, 14, Anyone that has a suitable poultry house— medium sized run with plenty of sunshine and enough money to buy a trio of a standard variety—can succeed and prosper. A, 15, I£ inexperienced, get a good poultry farm mana- ger and go slow until you get the poultry business pretty well learned. Don’t try to do it all the first season. A. 17. Single-Comb Black Minorcas. A. 18 First of all, they are layers of large white eggs and lots of them, they are easy to breed, mature early, are a splendid table fowl and one of the best varieties among the faney birds. They always attract attention in the show room and I know of no prettier sight on a farm or city lot than a flock of high class S. C. Black Minorcas with their bright head-gear and elegant green lustre. : A, 21. Have bred Minorcas for ten years and the longer IT breed them the more I become attached to them. START,;WITH FOWLS SAVES A YEAR FARMER WILL SUCCEED BEST WITH PURE-BREDS—TWO GOOD ONES BET- TER THAN TWENTY-FIVE POOR ONES J. M. WILLIAMS, North Adams, Michigan BREEDER OF SINGLE AND ROSE COMB BUFF_ORPINGTONS A, 9. Fowls. A. 10. Starting with fowls, we consider we are one year in advance of the one that buys eggs. After deciding on your choice of fowls you are going to breed, get your stock of a breeder of established reputation, and you have, in our mind, the kind of start you should have. A. 11. Buy pure-bred males. We do not believe in mongrels, it is just as easy to raise pure-bred poultry. Good utility stock can be bought very low of any particular breed you want. 5 A. 12. By starting with pure-bred utility stock, and buying a good male or two a year of a reliable breeder, a flock can be improved each year. The farmer each year, with a small classified ad in one or two good journals, can make three to five times more than the regular market prices. We have several farmers here doing that now and they are more than pleased. A, 13. Buy stock of a breeder of national reputation that will be honest with you and give you what you pay for. Make a study of the breed you like, and if you like poultry it is as easy as falling off a log. If you don’t like to bother with your poultry, keep out of the fancy. A. 14. If you can’t. pay for any more than two good ones, get two good ones. They are worth twenty-five poor ones. A, 15. By all means quality—then get about half what you think you want, and then get experience. A. 17. Buff Orpingtons. : A. 18, They are considered today by the poultrymen at large to be one of the best all around breeds; among the best layers in the chicken family, maturing early, making them valuable for broilers. As a fancy fowl in the show room, their massive shape and fine golden buff appeals to everyone. A, 19. Buff Orpingtons. A. 20. Early maturity—broilers—hardy constitution— great winter layers when eggs are highest. When sold as a fowl they are good size, much larger than the majority of the breeds. A. 21. Buff Orpingtons. A. 22. You get a happy combination of both fancy and market poultry in the Orpingtons. They are one of the finest table fowls we have, one of the greatest; egg producers there is, and in the greatest demand for fancy all over the world. SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEPING GOOD START THE WHOLE THING LESS CHANCE OF DISCOURAGEMENT BEGIN- NING WITH FOWLS—GET THE BEST—DON’T TIE UP TOO MUCH MONEY IN BUILDINGS C. L. PENSYL, Bloomsburg, Pa. BREEDER OF BUFF PLYMOUTH ROCKS EXCLUSIVELY A. 9. Buy fowls to start with. A. 10. Because you have the birds to start with,—have value for some of your money. Eggs, you run so many chances by shipping them. You may not get a good hatch. If you have a few birds to begin with you can give more attention to the eggs and get a far better start. The beginner may pay $5. for a sitting of 13 eggs, put them under a hen and likely have her leave the nest and discourage him right in the start. If he buys a trio of birds I consider he won’t get discouraged so quick,— that was my experience. A. 11. I would advise the farmer if he wishes to im- prove his flock to buy some good cockerels of either the Rocks or Wyandottes and breed them with his mongrels. Then let him select his best every year and cull his breeding stock closely. Every second year or so add a couple new breeding cockerels. I fully believe in this way he can build up w fine strain for market purposes. A, 12, If he has no fancy stock’ would advise him to buy a pen of pure-breds, mated for fancy stock, of some good re- liable breeder. In a short time if he takes an interest in his birds he can have a good flock. Would advise him to advertise his stock in some reliable poultry journal. Keep only one breed and cull closely every year. He will soon be realizing a fancy profit above the ordinary fowl. A. 13. Buy a pen of the best he can afford to buy, mated up for exhibition. Be sure that he is dealing with a good reliable breeder, one that will use him all right. If he wishes to get right up on top with his birds, would advise him to buy some winning male birds or winning pen at some large show. Then he can advertise young stock bred by or from say New York, Boston, or Chicago winners. If he is successful in raising stock I am sure he will have no trouble in selling same. A. 14. I would advise to buy only two birds if he hasn’t much money—the best be can afford to buy. Cull his breeders very close each season and use nothing but the best for breeders. If careful, in a couple of years, he will have a good fair start and can learn as he goes along. Possibly he could get a start by buying eggs if he has good luck. A. 15. Start with Rocks or Wyandottes—nothing but the best, and learn as he grows in the business. Read some good reliable poultry journal and then use his own ideas along with some of the others. The birds he can’t sell for fancy he can readily sell for market poultry. Especially for a beginner I would advise to go a little slow at first unless he has lots of money, then would advise him to employ some good experi- enced man. A. 16. Buy the best stock Rocks and Wyandottes his money will afford. Don’t put too much money in buildings. Have them built for warmth but not to look at. After business gets to paying put on the finishing touches. Too many get a lot of money tied up in buildings when their means are limited, where they should use it for birds to start with. A good start is the whole thing. A. 17. Buff Plymouth Rocks. A. 18. Because I have tried a great many other breeds and found none that I have as much satisfaction in as in the Buff Rocks. They have good size, are easily raised. Breed pretty true to type and color if mated properly, and are fine table fowls. Their beautiful shade of golden buff color is always noticed by the fancier at first sight in breeding yard or show room. Single birds of this breed have sold as high as several "hundred dollars each, and I always find sale for all I can raise at good fancy prices. A, 19. White or Buff Rocks or White Wyandottes would be my choice. A. 20. Because they have the size, nice yellow legs and skin, and are free from dark pin feathers, which makes them very salable. Their meat is juicy and fine flavored. A. 21. Rocks and Wyandottes. A. 22. Because they have the size for market fowls and then for fancy. They bring really the highest prices at the big shows. BREED FROM GOOD LAYERS TRAP NESTS ADVISED—DON’T PAY TO BREED POOR EGG PRODUCERS—PURE-BREDS BEST HARMON BRADSHAW, Lebanon, Indiana SINGLE COMB WHITE LEGHORN SPECIALIST A. 9. Stock by all means, if only a trio. A. 10. First: Because you can see just what you have to breed from and will know, in a measure, what the offspring will be. Second: Because you can raise more good birds from a good trio than from six sittings of the best eggs you could buy. A. 11. Would advise him to purchase a few first class birds and pen to themselves, using trap nests.. Get a few birds from a hen that you know is a good layer and build your AN ENGLISH FATTENING SHED flock from them. It does not pay to breed from a poor egg pro- ducer even though she is a blue ribbon winner. A. 12. Sameas No. 11. Also you can raise prize winners as well as market fowls with no more expense, if you start right. There are always market fowls among the pure-breds. A. 13. Start with two small pens (not to exceed six females and a male) and learn by experience how to breed and care for them. Use trap nests so you will know which hen produced the winner and which hen is the good layer. A. 14. Spend what he can for birds and start as in answer No. 13. A. 15. Same as No. 13 unless he employs a man with experience to help him. A. 16. Same as Nos. 13 and 14. 34 STARTING IN THE BUSINESS A. 17. Single-Comb White Leghorns. A. 18. Because they are my fancy and are beautiful. A. 19. Single-Comb White Leghorns. A. 20. First: Because they are the best egg producers known. If this were not true the largest egg farms in the country would not have them. Second: There is more profit in eggs for the market than poultry. You can produce fifty pounds of eggs cheaper than fifty pounds of poultry. The eggs will bring you in the most money. Third: They eat about half as much as the larger breeds. THEY SERVE AS PATTERNS IF YOU START WITH FOWLS THEY SHOW YOU WHAT GOOD BIRDS SHOULD BE—GET THE BEST MRS. CHARLES JONES, Paw Paw, III. BREEDER OF BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCKS; BUFF COCHINS AND GOLDEN BRONZE TURKEYS A. 9. I would buy fowls. A. 10. If you buy fowls it gives you birds of ‘the best breeding, if you buy of a reliable breeder. Buy trios or breed- ing pens and have them mated up for best results. They serve as patterns and show you what a good bird should be. A. 11. I would buy a trio and raise what good birds I could and use my cockerels with my mongrels until I could raise enough pure-bred fowls from my yards of good stock. Sell off all the mongrels, as there is much more satisfaction in raising good stock than mongrels. A. 12, Buy the best of the variety that suits him best. A. 13. I would buy the very best money would buy and always breed in line, as line breeding is the only way to establish a strain and the only way to keep your birds at the top. A, 14, Buy eggs but buy from the most reliable breeders and from an established line of the best breeding. A. 15. I would buy large breeding pens of the kind or kinds that I wanted to breed from. A. 16. I think one or two breeding pens and some eggs of the same lines of breeding. A. 17. Barred Plymouth Rocks and Buff Cochins. A. 18. Because they are by all means the most popular fowl today for the fancy as well as good utility fowls. Buff Cochins are good layers, quiet and natural pets, besides showing a great deal of intelligence. They are my favorites. A. 19. Plymouth Rocks. A. 20. Good layers, quick growth, heavy weights, great foragers. FOR FARMER AND FANCIER PRACTICAL ADVICE FOR BEGINNERS— START WITH GOOD STOCK—ENCOUR- AGES ENTHUSIASM AND QUICK RESULTS OTTO O. WILD, Benton Harbor, Michigan SPECIALTY BREEDER OF WHITE WYANDOTTES A. 9. I should buy fowls. A. 10. Fowls give you the finished product to study while you are learning the breed or variety, and you can watch development of the chick to maturity from the eggs the fowls themselves produce. There are few beginners who become totally discouraged the first season when fowls are the basis of their start. A. 11. The farmer should select as near as possible females of blocky, compact shape, of moderate size, low on legs full in breast and short at back, without feathered shanks and dark pin feathers. To these would mate a pure-bred male, white in plumage and of the Wyandotte type, low down, short, full and round, and not too heavy. The ‘progeny should be salable at any age at paying prices. The farmer ordinarily considers height as size, i. e., length of leg. We believe his greatest mistake in grading up a mongrel flock is due to this misconception, A. 12. He should improve his mongrel stock by intro- ducing pure-bred males and breeding to a blocky type without trying to increase size too rapidly, making plumpness the prime factor. He should also start with a pair, trio or pen of pure- bred stock and work up to an understanding of their good and bad points by degrees; perfecting them as he progresses and discarding the graded stock as the pure-breds increase to take - their place. 35 A. 13. a. For early enthusiasm and quick action, buy show birds that can win and supplement these purchases from time to time as the necessity demands. b. Should buy two pairs mated for sex; cock and pullet and cockerel and hen, or he can increase the females to four in each pen provided they are full or half sisters. They should be as nearly as possible of standard shape and color (shape to take precedence) of unquestioned line breeding and the result of six or more consecutive matings. They should thenceforth be bred in line. A. 14. Would put all my allotted funds for stock into the best pair of line bred birds the money would buy. Would prefer cockerel and pullet of ample size and development, and would continue to breed them in line. Would choose the young stock because of its continued usefulness only. A. 17. «White Wyandottes. A. 18. Because they are decidely the most popular breed or variety now before the public. Because no one as yet has mastered uniformity of type, general characteristics nor per- manently fixed color in entire strains, and finally, because there is a gold mine in sight for the one who does. A. 19. White Wyandottes. A. 20. Because they are hardy, thrifty, early developers of just the right size and shape to bring the highest market price alive or dressed at any age. Because they are crowding the so-called egg machines for first place, and finally because in dressing, the offal is small, and their feathers, because of color and texture, cover in value the cost of dressing, leaving larger profits. A. 21. White Wyandottes. A. 22. Because utility and fancy are known and recog- nized in this variety to a much greater extent than in any other breed or variety with which I am conversant and in consequence their sale is more easily effected at larger gains. STOCK SUREST START YOU GET RETURNS ONE YEAR SOONER—FAR- MER SHOULD SEEK PURE-BREDS—EARLY MATURITY, GOOD SIZE AND EASY FEEDERS MRS. H. W. HAND, White Hall, II. WHITE WYANDOTTE SPECIALIST A. 9. The surest, quickest, and most satisfactory way is to purchase a trio or pen of good birds. A. 10. I should prefer to begin with a few good birds rather than eggs, because you get returns one year sooner. SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEPING Birds are more easily and safely transported than eggs, the disappointments are fewer and the cultivation of the eye for the true type begins at once. . A. 11. He should head his flock with pure-bred cockerels of one of the best market varieties, that is, the close-built, round or plump varieties. The farmer should think of early maturity, good size, and easy feeders. The White Wyandottes answer all these requirements. ; A, 12. He should buy either eggs from a reliable breeder, or a pen of fowls properly mated, and from the offspring sell all culls and inferior cockerels for market, retaining inferior pullets for laying purposes, and using his select birds to breed from for himself and his customers. A. 13. Purchase a pen of birds conforming as nearly to the Standard as possible. Buy them of some reliable breeder who has a well established strain, that shows the evidence of careful, continuous breeding to correct type and color. Invest your money in a few fine specimens rather than in a large number of inferior ones. Select the variety that will give you size, plumpness, eggs, early maturity, and the variety that you think will give you the greatest number of customers. A. 14. I should advise him to go slow. Adopt one variety only, begin on a small scale, and as his experience grows, and his business increases, invest the profits in more equipment and better stock. A trio of good birds in one pen, carefully handled, is more profitable than several pens of inferior stock. “A. 17. I should select but one variety, and that would be the White Wyandottes. A. 18. They are an all purpose fowl. They are of good size, are plump, and in marketable condition at all ages after six weeks. They are easy keepers, producing more pounds on less feed than any other variety. They are good rangers, though not bad flyers, and are heavy producers of large brown eggs, both winter and summer. They are the best and gentlest of mothers, and are hardy and vigorous. The eggs are sought by the broiler plants, the chicks by the marketmen, and the exhibi- tion specimens by the greatest number of fanciers, of any variety of the day. Withal they are the most popular, the most profit- able and the most beautiful of all chicken kind. BETTER FLOCK FROM STOCK ON SMALL SCALE START WITH STOCK; ON LARGE SCALE BUY EGGS R. H. CRANDALL, Worth, Mich. BREEDER OF SINGLE AND ROSE COMB WHITE AND BROWN LEGHORNS; WHITE WYANDOTTES, PEKIN DUCKS, TOULOUSE GEESE AND BRONZE TURKEYS A. 9. If starting on a small scale I would buy stock; large scale, good eggs. A. 10. On a small scale you could raise a better flock from good stock than from eggs bought. Eggs are much the cheaper way to make a start on a large scale, as you can get a lot of stock out in a few weeks in the spring. A. 11. I would advise him to buy good pure-bred White Wyandotte cockerels, which will better both his egg production and market stock. In my experience the White Wyandottes make the best market bird of any breed and are the nearest to a general purpose fowl. A. 12. Breed Leghorns, as they are a source of profit from the time the pullets are large enough to lay until you have found sale for them. A. 14. Breed Leghorns, because they are the greatest egg producers if you get stock that has been bred with these 36 points in view. They will lay more eggs for amount of feed con- sumed than any other known breed and there is a large demand for them as egg producers and breeders at from $1. up. A. 15. Leghorns for fancy and eggs. White Wyandottes for market with Pekin ducks also, if you are near some good market. A. 19. White Wyandottes. A, 20. They have yellow flesh and legs with white plu- mage and no dark pin feathers to mar the appearance of dressed birds, always round and plump from a broiler to maturity. Mature early and are not long-bodied and leggy like the Rocks. FOWLS FIRST, THEN EGGS FOWLS MOST ECONOMICAL PURCHASE, BUT IT PAYS NO BUY EGGS — WORK AND WAIT, SUCCESSS WILL COME W. W. KULP, Pottstown, Pa. BREEDER OF SINGLE AND ROSE CQMB WHITE AND BROWN LEGHORNS; WHITE WYANDOTTES; BUFF AND BARRED ROCKS AND PEKIN DUCKS A. 9. I would buy both fowls and eggs. Fowls first then eggs. A. 10. I would buy fowls because you can produce more eggs cheaper than you can buy them for the same amount in- vested. I would buy some eggs too, for you can get eggs of fowls that breeders will not sell, thereby getting a line of blood that will be of value in your ‘breeding operations. I have bought eggs for twenty years and it has paid me. A. 11. I would buy eggs of the breed I wished to have. Keep all the best males two years. Then buy eggs again of a strain that would suit well with that bought first. This way he will soon have them much like the standard-bred stock he is using. But never keep one of the half or three-quarter bloods for they will not produce uniform quality of stock like the pure bloods. Or cockerels can be bought for their vigor, size and shape. Either plan will work, only if eggs are bought don’t expect to raise five nice cockerels from each sitting. If you get two nice cockerels from a sitting you will have them at a low price. A. 12. To sell fancy poultry, absolutely pure eggs or stock must be bred. I would buy some eggs and raise chicks. If I did not have enough in the fall I would purchase females and fill the pens. Select a breed you like and stick to it, do not change unless you are sure you have made a mistake. Take the advice of a poultryman of years of experience. He knows and also can tell you where you are planning to do too much and what obstacles you will be likely to strike. A. 13. Let him visit the breeder he wishes to buy of and pay him.for as good as he will spare, and pay him for some of his knowledge too. He knows and can help you. I have known men go to a place and want the very best at a low value. When they could not be bought they would pick out other nice looking ones that the breeder knew were not what were wanted, yet would let them have them to pay for their trying to get the best for half their value. A. 14. Buy as many and as good as his money will pay for, and work and wait for the rest. Buy a few good birds and breed them. Build up the business until you are in the other class, that is, with much money. It can and is being done all the time, but the person must not expect to spend much on him or herself during the building-up time. A. 15. First learn the business with some one who knows how. No other way will work, for no man can get a STARTING IN man to do it all for him; that is, do all the managing, for if he is able he will be doing it for himself. He can have fun if he wishes, for he can get men who will about make the expenses of the place; but the man who does not know his own business had better not try to run it unless for experiment. A. 16. Learn it with a good firm. A. 17. Leghorns and Wyandottes. A. 18. They are thoroughly practical breeds. If you have utility breeds you have a big sale for market and you have the fancy too, for they are fancy as any breeds. There is no breed of the egg-producing class equal to the Leghorns, all things considered. The Wyandottes are the best in the world in the meat class. A. 19. White or Silver Penciled Wyandottes. A. 20. I have found them good layers and large enough for meat trade, and not so liable to be killed by improper feeding as the Rocks. I have had a good many years to study this and think I am right. CORRECT MATING NECESSARY ANYONE CAN BREED POULTRY BUT EX- HIBITION SPECIMENS ARE ANOTHER PROPOSITION—EXPERIENCE IS REQUIRED F. C. SHEPHERD, Toledo, Ohio. BREEDER OF BUFF PLYMOUTH ROCKS A. 9. I would buy the best trio or pair of fowls that I could afford, also eggs from two or three reliable breeders. A. 10. From a trio or pair I could breed a lot sufficient to give me a start, but if they had not been mated right the whole seasons’ work might be lost. If I had chicks from several other strains I could select the best from all and re-mate them for my second seasons’ breeding with more certainty of the re- sults. Also by having the blood of several strains I could cross them or breed them straight and note results and cull or abandon such as did not show improvement, and in this way gradually work to build up a strain of my own. A. 11. My advice would be to buy eggs, raise all the chicks possible from them. The following season ‘kill all the mongrel males he has. Breed that season from the pure-breds, males only. By following this plan for two or three seasons he will be free of his mongrels and have a flock of pure-breds. A. 12. The same as Nos. 9 and 10. Selection of the finest to sell for exhibition or breeding purposes, after selecting his own breeders. Sell the culls or those not needed as market poultry. A. 13. Buy the best trio or pen that it is possible to get, properly mated for breeding exhibition specimens. Be content to breed a limited number and to only keep a limited number until the business is learned. Anybody can breed poultry, but breeding exhibition specimens is another proposition. You ean- not teach anyone how to breed exhibition specimens by simply telling them. You might as well try to teach a boy to swim by telling him how you do it; throw him in where it is over his head a few times and he will learn himself. The beginner must first have his breeding birds properly mated and then breed and keep only a limited number until he learns, not what some one tells him, but all the little “ifs, ans, ins and outs” that only come with practice and experience. A. 14. Buy eggs from the most reliable breeders and get the best you can afford. A. 15. Employ a competent man and let him do the Managing. A. 16. Begin in a small moderate way according to the THE BUSINESS means, either with stock or eggs or both. Do not attempt to establish a “large business” in too short a time. Meantime treat the business as you would any other business, i. e., give it your undivided time and attention and use the best business judgment. A. 17. Buff Plymouth Rocks. A. 18. First: As “fancy” poultry, by that I mean exhi- bition specimens, there is always a demand at large prices. Second: As market poultry there is no breed that can surpass them. They can be grown to two or three pounds weight as chicks in less time and at less cost, and with less care than any variety that I know anything about. As egg producers the tests and records will show that they are the equals of any breed, with this in their favor they do their heaviest laying during the months when eggs bring the highest ‘prices. POPULAR BREEDS BEST GET SOLID FOUNDATION STOCK — START WITH ONE BREED AND GROW UP WITH IT AUGUST D. ARNOLD, Dillsburg, Pa. COLUMBIAN WYANDOTTE SPECIALIST A. 9. Both. A. 10. Both are good to start with. If I had plenty of money I would buy the best pen of fowls I could get, regardless of price, in fact, would get a number of pens and get a good start as quickly as possible. If limited in means would then buy eggs froin an honest breeder, but never from a man who sells eggs at $1. per sitting, for no man can sell good eggs at such prices, unless his object is to benefit humanity at his own ex- pense. Neither would I buy from a man who breeds sixty varieties of fowls. A. 11. I would advise him to buy pure-bred males and cross on the mongrels. We have seen common dunghills crossed in this way with the best results, both as to looks of the flock and as to improvement for market and in laying qualities. A, 12. Let him start with a variety that is a well known all purpose fowl. Cull well, and sell for market each year such as are inferior in fancy points. Keep only the best males. Farmers are the only ones who can sell eggs for $1. per 15, having a number of males running with the whole flock and not pretending to breed for fancy points. A. 13. Get a variety that has a solid foundation as to their make up. A general purpose fowl that is a pretty fowl and useful both as to market and the fancy. A new breed or variety of fowls for a beginner is better than an old breed. He starts in with the new breed and grows up with it, and from the start stands a good chance to make sales. If he takes up an old variety he is in a crowd of hundreds and maybe thousands, he stands only one chance in a thousand to make a sale and is discouraged and goes out. In the selection of a new breed of fowls he must use good judgment, for most of the new breeds and varieties have not a solid foundation and they fall by the way. A. 14. Get a few sittings of eggs from a specialist of known reputation. Choose a variety of fowls that you fancy. Select the best each season. When having a good start in numbers place a small ad in a poultry paper, then keep the object in view to do as you wish to be done by. Show at a county fair, but never till you have something good to show. A, 15. Take up a popular variety or breed that has been made so by its own merits. Buy stock and eggs from the best breeders, no matter about the price. Get the best anyway. Become a specialist and give all your time and attention to one breed. Go to some successful breeder and get all the pointers 37 SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEPING: Use your poorest quality fowls and chicks for market. A. 16. Take up a tried variety, one that has the qualities both for the fancy and market side. Build cheap houses but on right plans, a few at a time; add as your means will permit and as your trade demands. Cull hard and market all inferior birds, keeping the best for the fancy. Don’t think at the start that it is an easy way to get rich quick, for you will change your mind; it takes work and lots of it. A. 17. Columbian Wyandottes. A. 18. Because they are the combination of the best and most useful of the Asiatics on the one hand, and on the other of the White Wyandottes, the most popular fowl in the world This combination for market and the fancy gives as near perfec- tion in an all purpose fowl as we have yet found. For hardiness, quick growing and laying, they are all that can be expected; for beauty, they have no equals. Their popularity is growing at such a pace as has never been experienced by any fowl. A. 19. Columbian Wyandottes. A. 20. Because they have all the good qualities required for market poultry. ; A. 21. Columbian Wyandottes. A, 22. Because I do not think I could get anything better for the purpose. ; you can. SMALL OR LARGE SCALE PLANTS START WITH FOWLS AND EGGS UNLESS MEANS ARE LIMITED, THEN CHOOSE FOWLS ALONE A. OBERNDORF, Centralia, Kans. BREEDER OF SINGLE COMB WHITE LEGHORNS AND BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCKS XQ A. 9. Fowls and eggs if on a large scale. Fowls only if on small scale. A. 10. Ifona large scale it would enable me to get differ- ent strains and study and decide upon the best points. If ona small scale the same can be done from the start to a more limited extent. A. 11. Get pure-bred cockerels of the larger breeds and at the same time a pen of one of the larger breeds, and keep them separate until he has replaced the mongrels by pure-bred stock. A. 12. Get a pen of fancy poultry and some fancy eggs and breed and raise them in separate pens. A. 18. Procure exhibition birds—prize winners only. A. 14. Buy Single-Comb White Leghorn eggs from reli- able breeders. : A. 15. Start with pens and eggs of layers, egg producers, such as Single-Comb White Leghorns and fleshy birds like Barred Plymouth Rocks. A. 16. Same as No. 15. A. 17. Single-Comb White Leghorns and Barred Ply- mouth Rocks. A. 18. Single-Comb White Leghorns are the best egg producers and require a moderate amount of feed, are showy and clean looking. Barred Plymouth Rocks are a popular breed and good sellers as “‘springs.”’ A. 19. For broilers Single-Comb White Leghorns, for roasters or capons Barred Plymouth Rocks. A, 20. Single-Comb White Leghorns can be made fit for broilers in less time and with less feed than others. For roasters and capons I prefer Barred Plymouth Rocks because they have yellow skin and plump bodies. A, 21. Single-Comb White Leghorns and Barred Ply- mouth Rocks. A. 22, They are attractive, egg producers and good sellers. d 38 SURE WAY TO START RIGHT | BUY BOTH STOCK AND EGGS THE BEST OBTAINABLE E. B. THOMPSON, Amenia, N. Y. BREEDER OF BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCKS EXCLUSIVELY 9. I would buy both eggs and birds. A: 10. Buying both eggs and stock would be a sure way to get a fine start. I could raise a lot of birds from the stock I bought and in addition to these raise some birds from the eggs. These eggs would be from the best birds the breeder had. Birds that he would not sell. You will see that having some chicks from such eggs as these and having also some fine stock to breed from, the beginner is in splendid shape for successful breeding. A. 11. I would advise buying some Barred Plymouth Rock cockerels, to cross with his mongrel hens. A. 12. I would advise breeding pure bred Barred Ply- mouth Rocks. The best of these the farmer could sell for breed- ing purposes and the others for market purposes. A. 13. I would recommend buying the finest and best . A. A SHED-ROOF COLONY HOUSE birds to be obtained, and be sure they are properly mated. The best birds will not breed unless mated right and too few breeders seem to be experts in mating. In addition to buying the best: birds I would recommend buying some eggs for hatch- ing from the finest matings. I would buy at least two or three pens of birds and several sittings of eggs; the best to be had at ary cost. A. 14. I would recommend buying one or two trios or pens as good as 1 could afford and a few eggs from the best. A. 15. Buy several pens of the very finest birds. Supple- ment this with several hundred eggs—this for the fancy breeding. A. 16. Begin with a few fine birds for fancy breeding and with a few ordinary birds for market breeding, and enlarge. the flocks as capital will permit. A. 17. Barred Plymouth Rocks. A, 18. This breed is the most popular and therefore in most demand and greatest money maker. A. 19. Barred Plymouth Rocks. A. 20, I understand that market poultrymen breed them ° very largely. A. 21. Barred Plymouth Rocks. A, 22. On account of their popularity for both fancy and market breeding. STARTING IN THE BUSINESS STUDY THE POULTRY PAPERS GO SLOW—LEARN FIRST HOW TO CARE FOR AND MATE _ BIRDS — ATTEND SHOWS AND STUDY THE STANDARD MRS. TILLA LEACH, Cheneyville, Ill. BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCK SPECIALIST A. 9. birds, would do so, also buy eggs from some breeder; if short of money would buy eggs only. A. 10. The fowls would give me a good start the first year, while from the eggs I might get one or two specimens better than I could buy. Would need two trios because I am a firm believer in “double mating.” A. 11. Buy one or two hundred incubator eggs from some breeder who has high grade market poultry, mark the chicks and use them for next year’s breeders. Of course I mean to buy eggs from pure-bred stock. I do not believe in trying to grade up mongrels. A. 12. Buy eggs, or a trio, from a breeder of high class exhibition stock, whose birds are also good layers and strong, vigorous market poultry. A. 13. As in this case expense need not be considered, I would buy a trio of the best from a reliable breeder, study the Standard and poultry papers during the breeding season, and secure the best advice and assistance possible when culling out and remating for another season. Such a beginner should attend one or more poultry shows during each season, taking some of his birds with him and, if possible, watching the judge score them, as in that way much can be learned. A. 14. Buy eggs instead of stock, but be sure they are from a good exhibition line. Attend the shows, study the Standard, and ‘‘make haste slowly,” learning first, how to care for the birds properly and to mate them, before investing much money. : A. 15. Hire a competent manager and follow his advice for the first one or two years. , A. 16. Buy incubator eggs from a breeder of choice exhi- bition stock that is strong and vigorous, not inbred too closely. Learn the market side of the business first, gradually working into the fancy as knowledge increases. A. 17. Barred Rocks. A. 18. Because I like them best. It is difficult to breed choice specimens, consequently more credit is due to the breeder who succeeds in raising, not buying, good ones. Also, they are more popular, take the United States over, than any other vari- ety, and there is more demand for good breeding stock. A. 19. Do not know; cannot imagine myself raising poultry for market only. TO PROCEED INTELLIGENTLY STUDY THE BREED AND THE INDIVIDUALS THE FIRST YEAR BRADLEY BROS., Lee, Mass. BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCK SPECIALISTS A. 9. Both. j A. 10. To have as many opportunities as possible from which to obtain the best. A. 11. Use pure-bred males, selecting birds that show quick maturity and proper body form, and of a strain in which these characteristics have been prominent for years. If I had the money to buy two trios of first class. 39 A. 12. Perhaps a trio and their eggs in addition—limited number. A. 13. Obtain the best birds he can buy and a limited number of the best eggs to be had. The most choice specimens produce results that money cannot, and some specimens are almost priceless for breeding. In a variety requiring two pens, the purchase: should comprise perhaps a quartette of each. A. 14. Get a choice breeding trio and then make a care- ful and discreet’ purchase of eggs, always of winning blood. Study the breed and the individuals as he finds them the first year, and so be better able to proceed intelligently. A. 15. Birds at medium prices but of very best blood, regarding of course the type most needed for market in his local markets. A. 16. Purchase small number of high grade and others of medium grade fancy stock selected for market type also. Also purchase eggs at moderate prices of strains exhibiting the characteristics most desired for the markets. A. 17. Barred Plymouth Rocks. A. 18. Our success with them. One of the most popular breeds for all—from the farmer, who buys one male a year, and the market poultryman, to the man of means who has a hobby to be gratified in fancy poultry. They are adapted to needs of all. They are utility and fancy birds combined. If you observe in the shows, if anywhere more than others, ’tis around the Barred Plymouth Rocks one finds often the most enthusiastic crowd. A. 19. Barred or White Rocks, Rhode Island Reds. Most experience with Barred Rocks, not much with others. A. 20. Stamina, form, skin, quick growth of these birds. Would select individuals with reference to requirements. A. 21. Barred Plymouth Rocks. A, 22, Experience and observation. FROM A FARMER’S VIEWPOINT DAY IS PAST FOR ANYTHING BUT PURE-BREDS FOR THE UP-TO-DATE FARMER KEEP THEM PURE H. TIBBETS, Neponset, III. BREEDER OF BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCKS A. 9. I would buy fowls. A. 10. By buying a trio or breeding pen of some good reliable breeder you get an idea of how they mate their birds to produce choice specimens; it teaches the beginner more than if he buys eggs. A. 11. I would advise a farmer who wishes to improve his flock to buy some good pure-bred cockerels; by that means his flock will improve each year. The day is past for anything but the very best bred stock of any kind for the farmer to keep. I can answer from a farmer’s standpoint. A. 12. I would advise the farmer who wishes to raise: poultry for the fancy as well as for market to keep nothing but. the very best of stock; keep them pure, do not cross them. A. 13. For the beginner with ample funds buy the very best stock that he can get from some breeder who has had plenty of experience and knows how to mate and breed his own birds. Then let him attend the shows and look over the speci- mens there. Subscribe for some good reliable poultry journal. Then by careful study and perseverance he ought to succeed. A. 17. Barred Plymouth Rocks. A. 18. As they are bred more than any other variety there are more buyers for them. They combine as many good points as any variety, as follows: Dress well at any age, are good layers, good mothers, and have good size. SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEPING THE BEST ARE CHEAPEST CHEAPER IN THE END TO START WITH THE BEST AND BUILD UP SLOWLY— “BREED FOR FURTHER IMPROVEMENT ROSEDALE POULTRY FARM CO., Greenwood, Mass. BREEDERS OF WHITE WYANDOTTES EXCLUSIVELY A. 9. Fowls, from a first class breeder, supplemented by eggs from same strain. A. 10. Tosecure benefit of experience of the breeder, and uniformity of stock. ’ ' A. 11. Purchase of males regardless of price from a first class breeder, using no other males. Add some females from the same strain, gradually weeding out all birds which do not show the benefit of the crossing. A. 12. Purchase best birds obtainable from breeder who has made a specialty of exhibition birds with good market qualities also. . A. 18. Get the best, regardless of price, and faithfully breed for further improvement. A. 14, Cheaper in the end to start with the very best, and build up slowly. A, 15, Allow a well-established breeder to select the nec- essary stock, and thus secure at once what would otherwise re- quire years of experiment and disappointment. A. 16. Same as Nos. 12 and 14. { A. 17. White Wyandottes. A. 18. Because when given proper treatment they quick- ly show improvement and thus encourage further effort on the same line. The competition is so keen that all breeders are obliged to devote their utmost energy to their work, as neglect of any detail is fatal to the highest results. A. 19. White Wyandottes. A. 20. They are about the correct size to meet market requirements. They make a very pretty showing with their yellow skin legs and plump, attractive bodies. Pin feathers do not show. _ BUY MATED BIRDS A FINE PEN WILL GIVE A GOOD START—SHOW AND ATTEND THE SHOWS—‘“‘STANDARD”’ NECESSARY GEORGE H. BIE, Racine, Wis. BREEDER OF BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCKS EXCLUSIVELY A. 9. I would buy fowls. A. 10. I could buy a first class male for breeding from $20. to $25., mated correctly with a pen of ten females that I would pay $100. for from a good reliable breeder. From this pen I could get at least 500 eggs in the hatching season. I could not buy that number of eggs from the same breeder much less than I paid for my pen of birds, and I would have my pen of birds for another season. A. 11. I would buy cockerels, either Barred Plymouth Rocks or Wyandottes—birds that can be bought from $2. to $3. each from some good breeder. Those would not be considered real fine birds but would be all right for the purpose. Put in one cockerel for every twelve to fifteen females in the flock. If I was satisfied with results from them I would mate those same males back on their own pullets the next season. Get _new males the following season. A. 18. Buy fine pen of birds from a good breeder and have him mate them. He will do much better to buy mated birds for the first year or two than to depend on his own judgment for mating. In the meantime get all the good reading matter he can obtain on his chosen variety. Take one or more good poultry journals. Get a Standard of Perfection. Send some of his best birds to the shows and go there himself. If his birds do not win a prize he will profit by it as he will find out their weak points. He must be willing to live and learn. A. 17. Barred Plymouth Rocks. A. 18. I have bred them for eighteen years. I bred several other varieties for twelve years and then dropped them all but the Barred Rocks. I have found them the best all round purpose fowl that I have had anything to do with. There is no variety of fancy poultry that receives more attention at our shows. There is always a ready sale for all the good ones and the culls will bring the highest market price. A. 19. Barred Plymouth Rocks. A. 20. They are as hardy as any fowl living and are good winter layers. The young birds are fit for market at any time after ten weeks old and bring the highest market price. ENTIRE YEAR GAINED ‘START WITH FOWLS—SAVES A YEAR IF WELL MATED STOCK IS BOUGHT—BUY THE BEST W. D. HOLTERMAN, Fort Wayne, Ind. SPECIALTY BREEDER OF BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCKS A. 9. If I had sufficient means to buy the very best I would buy a few fowls, otherwise the best eggs that money can obtain. A. 10. I should prefer fowls because in the first place it practically means the saving or gain of an entire year in the life of a fancier, and if he buys a correctly mated pen of the best out of a true fancier’s yards, he gets a practical working know- ledge of how birds should be properly mated for breeding, particularly if he studies the specimens sent him very closely. This, one is naturally apt to do the first year. Every fancier will concede that the one knowledge absolutely necessary for success is—proper mating. Therefore, to the beginning fancier I would say: Buy birds—buy the best. 3 A. 18. To such a one I would say, invest $50. to $200. in a pair or trio of line-bred birds, that have been bred in line for years for that one purpose—exhibition birds or show birds. He should be satisfied with nothing else but the very choicest specimens to be had from any one breeder. These birds should be all of the same blood lines (related). Of his young stock from this pair or trio he should next season select a few (remem- ber, however, only a few) of the most vigorous and best pullets and mate these back to their sire. Of his cockerels he should only keep one—the best one—to mate back to the hen or hens he purchased. The next season he should continue breeding along these lines—breeding as close as possible without impairing the vigor. Whenever he wishes to buy he should only buy from the breeder from whom he made his original purchase. Thus will he establish a line of showbirds. = A. 14. Let this man write to the most reliable breeders and fanciers of the variety he desires to keep, and obtain from them prices of eggs from their most select specimens. Since the advent of the trap nest every fancier can easily identify the eggs from each individual female in his breeding yards. Some fanci- ers refuse to make such a quotation but I would rather pay $2. per egg for such eggs than eggs from the regular pens at $5. per sitting. 40 STARTING IN THE BUSINESS A. 15. This man could well afford to buy both stock and eggs. For his exhibition poultry, however, I should advise him by all means to start with stock—the best he can obtain. He should work the market poultry end of the business vigor- ously from the beginning and should take his time to establish himself firmly in the fancy business. If he does this thoroughly, the fancy business will bring in more money in the end than the market poultry. A. 16. Let him do as above suggested with this differ- ence, that the first year or two he combine either gardening or small fruit raising with the poultry business, so that he will have sufficient funds to carry him through to success. A. 17. Barred Plymouth Rocks. A. 18. Because in the first place they are probably the most difficult of all varieties to breed true to their standard requirements and this, therefore, opens a wide field for the fancier who succeeds in breeding the choicest. That this is true is shown by the average high prices paid for fancy Barred Ply- mouth Rocks. Undoubtedly the average price paid for birds of this variety is higher than that paid for any others. They also form the center of attraction in the showroom. They are not so nervous and flighty as some of the smaller breeds nor so heavy and clumsy as some of the larger. They form a happy medium in their character. BUY A FARM GOOD GRAVEL SOIL BEST—GET BEST STOCK AND EGGS YOU CAN AF- FORD—BUILD INEXPENSIVE HOUSES A. B. TODD, Vermilion, Ohio. SINGLE COMB WHITE LEGHORN SPECIALIST A. 9. I would buy the finest eggs that money could buy from two line-bred strains, and breed from birds obtained from them, and get a strain of my. own. A. 10. My reasons for so doing are, I could get a better grade of stock after once hatched and raised than I could get for five times what the finest eggs would cost. A. 11. The quickest and best way for a farmer to improve his flock of mongrels.is to buy the best cock or cockerel he can afford and breed from him, and add new blood every year in this way, or buy good eggs and hatch his own breeding cockerels. A. 12. If he wished to start at once I would advise him to buy a trio or pen of the best stock he could afford. A. 138. Buy a place of 10 or 20 acres of good gravel soil, and buy a few choice birds, say 15 to 25 fowls of a strain that has been line-bred for years. Start on a small scale and learn how to breed exhibition specimens, and gradually work his way up. A. 14. Lease a place of 5, 10 or 20 acres of good gravel soil for three, five or ten years, and build temporary poultry houses costing not to exceed $1. per fowl. Buy a good grade of eggs from two line-bred strains of fowls and start a strain of his own. A. 15. Buy a place of 20 to 25 acres of good gravel soil near a good market, and buy the best stock and eggs that he can afford. Build poultry houses costing not to exceed $1. per head. Start in gradually and add to the flock each season as the busi- ness increases. Be a good advertiser in the leading poultry journals. A. 16. Buy a farm of 20 to 50 acres of good gravel soil, if not, lease a farm of 20 to 50 acres for three, five or ten years, and build houses costing not to exceed $1. per head. Start with as good pure-bred stock and eggs as he can afford. Continue as advised in No. 15. A. 17. Single-Comb White Leghorns. A, 18. First: They are the most showy and finest exhi- bition fowls in existence. Second: As great layers of pure white eggs they are second to none. Third: They are one of the hardiest varieties and are easiest to raise of any breed. A. 19. The Columbian Wyandottes. A. 20. They are next to the Leghorn in hardiness, and in their quick growth, for an excellent table fowl they have no superior. A, 21. Rocks. A. 22. There is a good demand for either breed as a fancy fowl, and for market neither can be excelled. : Columbian Wyandottes or Barred Plymouth BEGIN SMALL AND GROW NO MAN EVER MADE A SUCCESS AT THE START WITH A BUSINESS HE HAD NO KNOWLEDGE OF~YOU MUST LEARN O. E. SKINNER, Columbus, Kansas. BREEDER OF BUFF PLYMOUTH ROCKS; BUFF AND PARTRIDGE COCHINS A. 9. Eggs. A. 10. From eggs hatched I could judge of the breeder’s stock as a value to start a flock. If they would not reasonably reproduce, should discard them as a flock foundation. A. 11. Barred Rock males. From the fact that Barred Rock blood immediately takes effect in both color and better size. Besides my long observation is that Barred Rocks are the ideal market fowl—both dead and alive. A. 12. My experience has been largely along this line and I have used Barred Rocks for this reason. At the age of broilers you can almost invariably pick out your culls if any, and obtain as much for them at this young age and thus save half your feed bills. For combining fancy and market there is no breed as profitable as the Barred Rocks. A, 13. Buy a choice pen or pens properly mated by the seller to produce immediate results, and advise the party of whom purchased so he will know exactly what you wish to do. A. 14. Purchase a small pen to satisfy his immediate desires in the fancy line, and at the same time to give him an idea of what his chosen breed is like, and then stock up later on with eggs, as a hundred eggs would give him quite a flock. A, 15. Goslow the first year so as to get some knowledge. . No successful business man ever made a success at once of a 41 Take all other lines of busi- They have all come up gradually. business he had no knowledge of. ness as an example. A. 16. About the same as No. 15. A. 17. Strictly fancy, would take Partridge Cochins. A. 18. The percentage of culls is less. There is always a great demand for all the pullets you can possibly raise,and then the average demand for males will keep you closely cleaned up all the time. Besides I have always been able to get better prices for this breed. They are the easiest of all the large breeds to raise by artificial methods. A. 19. Barred Plymouth Rocks. A. 20. With this breed you can almost invariably select your poorest specimens at broiler age and thus avoid feeding so long—increasing the profit by this means. Further, most markets invariably pay a higher price for Barred Rocks, as they go on the market cleaner, their plumage not showing the dirt from their trip to market, like most other breeds. They are more active than their closest competitors, (the Wyandottes), SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEPING easier to grow by artificial methods, as they are the last to die in a mixed flock of youngsters in brooders if conditions have not been the best for their growth. THE BEST IS BEST GO TO REPUTABLE BREEDER AND BUY BEST HE WILL SELL—LEARN TO MATE FOR BEST RESULTS DR. O. P. BENNETT, Mazon, Il. SPECIALTY BREEDER OF BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCKS A. 9. I would buy both. A, 10. I would buy the best pen of fowls I could get in order to learn what constitutes a good fowl, also to learn the proper way to mate them. I would buy eggs from the best breeder and from his best birds in order to get a chance for the best chicks. : A. 11. Buy as many good fowls as possible, keeping their produce and gradually getting rid of the mongrels. A, 12. Sell all his old stock, buy eggs and as many breeders as possible. Increase and better his flock from these. A. 138. Buy a pen or two of the very best fowls possible from the best breeder. Also buy the best eggs from same breeder. A. 14. Begin as above but only on a smaller scale. A. 15. Let a reputable and capable breeder fit him out with a part of what he needs and then let him learn from these. By the time he has the proper experience he will have a large enough flock of his own. . A. 16. Same as No. 15, but on a smaller scale. A. 17. Barred Plymouth Rocks. A. 18. I believe them to be the most practical and profitable fowl on the market. They are by far the best fowl for the farmer, market poultryman and for the fancier. THE FARMER’S MISTAKE MONGRELS, MIXED BLOOD AND CROSSES NOT DE- SIRABLE—PURE-BREDS ARE BEST—KEEP ONE BREED F. J. WEHRMEYER, Benton Harbor, Mich. WHITE WYANDOTTE SPECIALIST A, 9 I would buy both eggs and stock. A. 10. Because I, like the majority, could not afford to buy many high class birds, hence I should buy birds to the extent of my ability financially, and then buy eggs from the same breeder. Almost everybody could buy a few nice birds; if not 50 or 25, then a pen or trio. This increases the interest and gives one a few eggs to set, and above all, a few females and male to use in mating the next season with the choicest chicks raised from the eggs bought, and in this way start a “‘line’”’ in breeding. Of course, if I did not understand what was meant by ‘‘line- breeding” I should immediately ask and learn; this being es- sential. A. 11. Ido not believe in mongrels of any sort on a place for farmers or others. I am a farmer as well as a breeder of poultry. I am sorry to say that entirely too many farmers of my acquaintance labor under the wrong impression that mixed blood, or stock, gives better results. No one has ever advanced a sound reason to substantiate this. It is all guess work and imagination. Pure-bred fowls thrive just as well, lay just as many eggs, are just as healthy, vigorous and thrifty as any mongrel ever dared to be. All that is necessary is for the farmer to occasionally buy a new male or two to place with his flock- This is true even with mongrels. Then why keep mongrels? They cost us no less to keep. Why not keep some one breed and let this be pure? When it comes to « question of marketing, especially alive, all dealers will tell you that a coop or crate of chickens all one color sells better than a mixed lot. All farmers know that pure-bred stock produces the best offspring— colts, shoats, calves, etc., and certainly poultry. Then why breed mongrels? Every farmer, I don’t care where he is, rich or poor, appreciates nice looking animals around the farm. With horses, cows, hogs, etc., this question of pure-bred stock is usually a difficult one for the average farmer. When it is a question of chickens, what an easy matter to keep a pure- bred flock. Eggs from pure stock are so cheap and so easy to get. Let your broody mongrels hatch and mother them, they'll thrive and grow as plump and fat as any mongrel chick. The, next season buy a year-old cock bird of the same breed and mate him to your pullets. Gradually sell off your mongrel stock, and in just a short time the mongrels on your farm will be a thing of the past. Nothing—absolutely nothing—adds so much interest to a farm place as a beautiful flock of some one breed of chickens. Visitors admire them—the help around the place treat them with more respect (which usually means a little better care and better profits), the wife enjoys helping with the work among them and so do the boys and girls. A TRIO OF STANDARDBRED WHITE WYANDOTTES A. 12. Start with some one breed of pure-bred stock, preferably White Wyandottes, the best that his purse will stand, gradually increasing the flock or flocks. Read good poultry journals. Show a few choice birds at different convenient poultry shows. Begin advertising in a reliable poultry journal. By raising a quantity there will be lots of nice plump market stock at top prices and some choice ones for breeding and exhi- bition purposes, or to supply others with eggs for hatching. A, 13. Personally visit several well known fanciers or breeders of the variety he has chosen, and there buy if possible the best fowls that money will obtain, or visit and buy at some poultry show. The breeder thus selling will gladly assist him from time to time over any difficult problems in mating, etc., until he understands it better, for the average poultry fancier is a jolly good fellow and appreciates the fact that the ‘faney” will never be overdone and always welcomes a new arrival. Then hatch and raise. Show the best you have at some exhibition— never mind whether you win or not, show the best you have anyhow. Affiliate with poultry clubs, join your local club, if any. Read good poultry journals and books and as soon as 42 STARTING IN THE BUSINESS possible begin advertising when ever you think you can spare either eggs or some surplus stock. A. 14. Assuming that the beginner has other means or other work that bring in money, he has but to buy some choice eggs, hatch and raise some stock. In a local way he will soon begin to grow, and by painstaking efforts succeed eventually in climbing up the ladder. He will fall back occasionally but this only adds to his determination and fires his ambition all the more. A. 15. Engage the services—if possible—of some ex- perienced poultry keeper or manager and do as he suggests. A. 16. Begin small, save a surplus to bridge over any set-backs and gradually grow step by step. Perseverance— strict attention to the work—will count here as in any business. Begin with some known bred-to-lay stock and feed liberally for eggs and thus get started in increasing the profits so that all earnings can go toward the growth of the business. A, 17. White Wyandottes. A. 18. White Wyandottes are very interesting fowls in- asmuch as they afford much study (which proves a pleasure) to breed them to standard requirements. Being white in color they look more beautiful than any other fowl when seen in a yard or upon a green lawn. To realize that many people really enjoy seeing White Wyandottes one has only to listen to the remarks of visitors at poultry shows. As they view the various birds they suddenty come upon your favorites and with a burst of enthusiasm remark, “See those beautiful white chickens, are’nt they simply lovely?” What more does a fancier want than such indorsement to convince him that the White Wyan- dottes are worthy of being loved? A. 19. White Wyandottes. A, 20. We have had other breeds and after experimenting with White Wyandottes have learned that they are of more value and, being finer-boned, are always preferred by the dis- criminating dealers. As broilers there is nothing to equal Wyandotte chicks, as they develop flesh rather than feathers. They will stand close confinement, responding readily to good treatment and when dressed are as plump and toothsome meat as it’s possible to conceive. The feathers being white are worth considerable, to say nothing of the pin feathers not showing as in colored varieties. A, 21. White Wyandottes. A. 22, Being known as the best all around purpose fowl. From a fancy view they keep you “busy” raising them to stand- ard quality. As layers they are hard to beat. When selling alive, in the market, nothing looks quite as nice or clean, and when dressed nothing as plump, fleshy and tempting. ONE MALE AND SIX FEMALES WILL GIVE A GOOD START AND SHOULD YIELD 75 TO 100 GOOD CHICKS THE FIRST SEASON J. C. MACOMBER, Reading, Mass. BREEDER OF PARTRIDGE WYANDOTTES AND BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCKS A. 9. I should buy both stock and eggs. A. 10. The best and surest way to get the right start is to buy stock. It is more expensive, but if you get what you want, you may know what to expect of your chicks. Buy the fowls early enough and allow them to be well settled before the breeding season commences, so that the eggs will be more fertile and the results more satisfactory. One should be able to raise to maturity 75 to 100 chicks from a pen of six females and one male. While buying eggs is more or less of a speculation, one is more than likely to get several birds out of a stting, each one of which is worth more than the cost of the eggs. A, 11. I should advise him to buy a couple of pens of pure-bred stock from a reliable breeder, at moderate prices. One can pick up pure-bred stock, that is not fancy, at from $2. to $3. for females, and $5. for cockerels. These pens should be kept separate, breeding as many birds from them as is possible, keeping along with his mongrels until he increases his pure-bred flock to as many as he desires to keep, then discard the mon- grels entirely. A. 12. I should advise that he purchase a couple of pens of as good stock as he can afford, breed them entirely separate from any stock that he might have, watch their breeding by marking and keeping a pedigree of all chicks each year. Save out the fanciest stock for breeders another season, using the fair to good youngsters for market purposes and sending a few of the fanciest to the fall and winter shows. When he finds that he is able to breed really fancy stock, advertise well, and when- ever he makes any sales, be sure that his customer is pleased, even though in pleasing him he may be taken advantage of. A. 13. Buy a pen—or, if it is necessary, in order to ob- tain exhibition specimens, to resort to double mating—buy two pens of the very best stock it is possible to get. Don’t stop to consider price, if you can only get quality, then use a system of line breeding, and by the aid of trap nests, keep a careful pedigree of each chick so that you will know the breeding on the female side as well as on the male side. By carefully study- ing this system, you will soon find where your good birds come from, and you will soon be able to breed the kind you are looking for with very little trouble. A. 14. I should advise him to stay out of it as a business, unless he could handle it on the side in connection with some other. In such a case, he should buy eggs until he succeeded in getting at least a pair of fancy exhibition birds, then start with them for his foundation stock. Such a course would take several years to get the business on a paying basis, but without much money, I believe it is useless to go into the fancy poultry business, excepting as a side issue. A. 15. If the beginner you refer to here does not thor- oughly understand the business, I should advise him to start in a very small way with the fanciest stock he can get, and learn to breed and care for fowls by handling them himself exclusively, and when he feels that he is thoroughly competent to master the business go into it on as large a scale as he thinks best. He _ should have by this time plenty of foundation stock, and if he 43 has not the stock to suit him, he will surely know where and how to get it. A. 16. Same as in No. 15. A. 17. Partridge or Columbian Wyandottes or Barred Plymouth Rocks. A. 18. All three varieties are attractive, handsome, and leaders in the show room. The Barred Plymouth Rock is an old standby and the only objection to them for a beginner—con- sidering the business end of the fancy—is that he would need a great deal of experience and advertising before he could command the trade, there being so many well known breeders of this variety already. With the Partridge and Columbian Wyan- dottes there are practically no old and established breeders, inasmuch as both breeds are comparatively new and especially the Columbian. There has been very little attention given them by breeders generally, until within the past two or three years. Both breeds are bound to be popular and a beginner would stand a better show and get a big trade quicker on these varieties than he would by taking up the older ones. A. 19. Barred Plymouth Rocks, Partridge or Columbian Wyandottes. A. 20. All three of the above breeds cannot be bettered for market purposes. ‘They are great layers, and are splendid table fowls, besides they are attractive in your yards, and a nice flock of any one of these varieties is a great satisfaction. Per- SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEPING sonally I have bred nearly all varieties starting with the Barred Plymouth Rocks and each of the varieties which I have bred, I have tested along with the Barred Rocks. The first variety that I found that was their equal was the Partridge Wyandotte, and then the Columbian. Brahmas consumed more food and laid less eggs, but were a splendid table fowl. They were not as profitable as the Barred Rocks, so I discarded them. Leg- horns are handsome and just about equal to the Barred Ply- mouth Rocks as layers, but are too small to be profitable as table fowls. Hamburgs are out of it in every way, excepting that they are proud and pretty. White Plymouth Rocks and White Wyandottes fell a little below the Barred Rocks in weight and were not quite as good layers. Of course, I only give this as my experience and it is my reason for breeding the varieties that I do. GOOD START FOR LITTLE MONEY MAY BE HAD BY BUYING EGGS—BUY THE BEST FROM SPECIAL MATINGS C. BRICAULT, M.D. V., Andover, Mass. WHITE WYANDOTTE SPECIALIST A. 9. Eggs. A. 10. In buying eggs, one with limited means can get a much better start than he would buying stock, for breeders will sell eggs from their best matings, and « very good start can be had for little money. A. 11. By buying eggs for hatching from breeders who make it a point to breed for utility purposes; then gradually discard the mongrels and keep only the pure-breds. The best THREE COMPARTMENT FOOD HOPPER way would be to sell off every mongrel and invest in eggs for hatching of the breed chosen. A. 12. Sell all the stock of mongrels now on the farm, and buy eggs for hatching from both the breeder who breeds exhibition stock and the one who breeds for market points, eggs and meat. A. 13. Buy the best specimens of the chosen breed that breeders can be induced to sell. Breed from these only, and cull down to the best birds every year. A, 14. Buy eggs from special matings. Get an experi- 44 enced breeder the first. year to select the best birds for breeders; breed only from the best specimens. A. 15. Buy largely of the highest quality birds, both for fancy and market poultry. A. 16. Buy eggs from special matings and from the best pens of breeders in both fancy and market poultry. A. 17. White Wyandottes. A. 18. Because they are the best for layers and market poultry, easy to breed to standard requirements, and one of the most popular of breeds, if not the most popular. A. 19. White Wyandottes. A. 20. Because they are excellent layers, make the best broilers and look well as dressed poultry. As yearling hens they do not take on too much fat, as others do. A. 21. White Wyandottes. ‘ A. 22. Because they combine the qualities which make an ideal fancy and market fowl. DON’T RAISE TOO MANY KEEP ONLY THOSE WHICH GIVE PROMISE OF DEVELOPING INTO EXTRA NICE, “THRIFTY, VIGOROUS BIRDS BENJAMIN H. BAKER, Owensboro, Ky. BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCK SPECIALIST A. 9. I would buy both fowls and eggs. A. 10. I would go to a breeder of my favorite variety whom I knew to be progressive, and buy a few of the best birds that he would sell and then contract with him for eggs from birds bred in line with the ones that I had purchased. By this method one would be surer of getting a good foundation and I would consider it of the greatest importance in establishing a line of breeding. A. 11. I think the best method would be to buy cock- erels from some good reliable breeder every year, always insist- ing on birds of good size and plenty of vigor. By this method one could easily improve his females and dispose of his cock- erels and surplus pullets at a much better price than usual. By this method he would increase the size of his hens and when through with them they would bring nearly double what the mongrels ordinarily do. A. 12. I think it would be well for him to select some popular variety that has good market qualities, not try to raise too many and keep only those which give promise of developing into extra nice, thrifty, vigorous birds. Show at his most con- venient local show and build up a trade that he can hold. The first few years do not ask the prices that the foremost breeders get, but be liberal with his customers and they will soon come “to believe in him.”’ A. 13, The beginner with ample funds can well afford to get the best birds he can obtain. He would naturally want to try to raise some birds himself; but I think it would be well for him to select some good locality in the country and offer the farmer’s wives a premium above the market price to raise a few choice birds for him—he to furnish the eggs from his yards. By this method he is most certain to get some extra good birds even if he is not successful with his own flocks. A. 14. To this person the road to eminent success is likely to be quite long with many turns in it. He had better go a little slowly for a while or he will become disheartened and give up. I would advise him to secure the confidence of some good reliable breeder, buy eggs from him each season, and with proper care in a few years he would likely have a good sized flock of excellent birds. STARTING IN THE BUSINESS A, 15. Place his money on interest and invest only a small amount in birds until he becomes thoroughly acquainted with the business. t A. 17. Barred Plymouth Rocks. A. 18. They are conceded to be the most popular variety by both farmer and fancier. From a practical point of view they stand at the head as the best general purpose fowl which rank they have long held, and the indications are that they will continue to hold it for some time to come. Wherever you go you are sure to find Barred Rocks or fowls that resemble them very much. The farmer’s wives each year, being anxious to improve their flocks, usually select some progressive breeder from whom to buy new blood, generally buying cockerels. At a result, you seldom ever find a breeder of Barred Rocks thas has enough good birds to supply his demand. From the fancy point of view there is no variety that when bred up to its highest state of perfection more appeals to one’s fancy for the beauty in its markings and feathers. They have always taxed the minds of the best breeders to raise them to their present perfection, and the indications are that they will continue to require the most careful breeding to improve them, A. 19. I would cross Cornish Indian’s with Barred Ply- mouth Rocks. A. 20. I have found by experience and believe that it is generally conceded by those who have tried them that the Cornish Indians stand easily at the head of all varieties as a table fowl, and when crossed on the American varieties they seem to transmit that quality, and I found that they grow very rapidly into big, fine table fowls. A. 21. Barred Plymouth Rocks and Single Comb Brown Leghorns. A. 22. Consider the practical qualities that they have— the Barred Rock being a good, general purpose fowl and the Leghorn an excellent layer. The great numbers that are bred create quite a good demand for breeders. This sustains the fancy side of it, thns giving one a ready market at a good price for his best specimens. START WITH EGGS THEN GROW UP IN THE BUSINESS ALONG WITH THE CHICKENS—GOOD STOCK WORTH A GOOD PRICE J. W. PARKS, Altoona, Pa. BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCK SPECIALIST A. 9. Eggs. A. 10. My main reason would be, that by buying eggs I would grow up with the business right along with the chickens. Second: Were I to buy stock I would not know exactly what the fowls were fed on, and changing off from one system of feeding right on to some other method does not always pan out. I know that from experience, as one customer will write that the birds were received all O. K. and are laying fine, and another man that was sent full sisters right from the same pen, will com- plain about poor laying. I of course cannot write each customer my methods of feeding in full. Third: It is not advisable to change fowls from one method of housing to another. For instance, I use the open front coops exclusively, and might sell stock to a man who was afraid fresh ‘air would hurt his stock. He might raise stock himself with this system, but mine would hardly do well under the change. A.’ 11. I would advise Mr. Farmer to study his market a little and see what it called for in the way of eggs and fowls. Should his market call for brown eggs, it will at the same time call for yellow-skinned fowls, as I find everybody is after the yellow skin. I would pick out the hens that come the nearest to having good yellow skin, and the ones that laid the brown eggs. You of course would not have much trouble selecting the ones that laid the brown eggs, as most any kind of a hen except the Leghorn and Minorca will lay these. With these I would mate male birds—cockerels—of some well known breed that filled the demands of your market. I would of course be sure that the breeder from whom I bought kept the kind of goods I wanted. Then I would send him what- ever amount I could spare, say $5, and ask him to please send me the best bird he could for the money. Right here you might ‘remind him of the points you are working for. 45 When selecting the breeder to buy from it might be well to remember that all birds of the breed you chose are not good layers. We quite often hear the remark that such and such a breed are no good for laying, while it should be said instead that the females of such and such a strain are not good layers, or sitters or whatever the kick may be. A strain in our notion means that such and such a person has worked and improved his stock by scientific breeding, etc., until it surpasses some other person’s strain in some points, hence the importance in selecting the breeder that satisfies your wants. A. 12. I would invest in selected eggs for hatching, and would place them under hens well dusted with lice powder of some kind at least twice during incubation. The number of eggs to buy, of course, would depend on how extensively he wanted to go into the business, but above all don’t invest your hard-earned money in the cheapest fowls you find on the market. I have in mind a neighbor of ours that sent clear out to Iowa to get Leghorn eggs at $4. per 100, and from the 500 eggs purchased he has about 30 small frys. I believe he could have sent to Colorado, bought eggs from some reliable breeder that charged an honest price, and had more chicks from 100 eggs. If a breeder has good stock he has worked hard to get it, or paid a nice price, and cannot give his goods away. A. 13. I would go and work on some up-to-date poultry farm for a year at least, and get some knowledge of what a good chicken is and learn to know that every egg from a fine hen. does not hatch a winner. I would have some experience at least if I had to work for merely nothing. I remember well of working for seventy-five cents a week and my board while learn- ing the business, and at the age of seventeen. Next, I would buy an incubator or two and right here the cheapest is generally the dearest, as it costs money to put up a good incubator with a ten or twenty year guarantee back of it. Would also buy a few hens for hatching. You might buy com- mon hens in the fall and as soon as they got broody set them, and should you not have luck with your incubators you would have hens to fall back on, and vice versa. I would next select the breeders of the variety that I wanted, and choose the men that had been doing the winning, and buy eggs from select stock. These generally come high, as they represent years of hard work, hence the importance of knowing a little about the business be- fore you get too much capital invested. If I were buying a place to start on I would try and get one with a south-eastern slope and sandy ground if possible, and if you are able to get a place with a stream of water on it that can be run through the yards, you are all to the good. I would invest in a Standard and commit the requirements of my chosen breed to memory, watch my stock closely, see where they lacked, and work to overcome that in my next year’s mating. I would take in the smaller shows first, if successful I would prepare to make some of the larger shows, after winning would use printer’s ink liberally, let the people know I had the goods, and the trade would come. A. 14. Just the same as the man that had the money would have to do, to try and get a little knowledge of the busi- SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEPING ness somewhere. We haye men who have started right in their’ backyard with a few chickens, and today are the foremost breeders, but to learn the business it must be taken slowly and your ground well worked. I would buy a few hens, and when they got broody send to some reliable breeder of the chosen variety. My object would be to get a few good ones to start with, and then breed from them. The next year you could have the breeder you buy from sell you eggs from several pens, keep tab on them, and mate your stock without purchasing new blood the second year. A. 15. He too would have to go through the mill to be able to jump right into the business on a large scale. Visit some of the successful poultry farms and note the style of buildings, etc. Have an expert lay out the plant and have the same built while you are learning the business. Get some man that under- stood the business to go in with you, especially some man that was without funds who would be willing to buckle on his years of experience to your capital. At the same time it would be well to remember that just because you furnished the money you don’t necessarily know the business. I have in mind a man that used to take his visitors through his incubator cellar and ' take eggs out of the machines to show how it was done. A. 16. Study the markets and find out the variety that is the most in demand. Take into consideration the variety that is the most popular at the shows. I would advise an amateur to select some old reliable strain to start with, and leave the new varieties for the experienced breeders to work on. I would buy a great many eggs of some reliable breeder who sold his eggs at a fair price. Even if you did not get so many choice birds you would have some to supply your market. You should trap nest your birds for the first laying year, and select for your breeding stock for the second year the females that are the best layers. Market the poor layers; they will bring just as good a price on the ‘market as the good layers and perhaps more. layer is generally a fat sluggish hen. I would take a few of the choicest ones to a local show where the competition was not so keen, and if I won would start several little ads in some paper with a “sworn circulation,” and above all advertise only what you have. You will not have any 96-point hens the first year, nor will you find many 200-egg hens. The winners and the layers you do have will depend a whole lot on who you bought your eggs from. A. 17. Barred Plymouth Rocks. A. 18. Because there is more of a demand for them than any other variety. They are one of the oldest varieties, and the variety that we find some of in almost every flock of chickens. They have stood their ground while other varieties have come and gone. They are one of the hardest varieties to breed which makes it all the more sport, for there is not much real sport in working for something that can easily be obtained. They are the variety that you always see the visitors crowded around in all our big shows. They are of the type that can be developed as layers, and not lose any of their winning points. A. 19. Barred Plymouth Rocks. A. 20. They stand at the head of the list as the best all purpose fowl. They have yellow legs, and beaks, beautiful blue gray barred plumage, which makes them a desirable fowl for either city or country as they do not show the dirt, and are not as quickly noticed by the hawks or crows as the white varieties. They are remarkably hardy, easy raised, are the best of layers if encouraged a little in that direction, and are good sitters and mothers. They have the much desired yellow skin, and when dressed for market are quick sellers. These generally conceded points of excellence fully account for the universal popularity of this breed. A. 21. Barred Plymouth Rocks. A. 22, here is always a demand for them as fancy stock, owing to their universal popularity, while there is always a The poor .« demand for them on the markets, owing to their yellow skin - and small bones. They will lay as many eggs in a year as any other variety, while they spend some time clucking around— the non-sitter also takes her rest. They lay a brown egg, and with a little extra care and judicious breeding by using trap- nests, they will lay large brown eggs and lots of them. START WITH LINE-BRED STOCK FOLLOW UP BY BREEDING IN LINE— DON’T WASTE TIME “IMPROVING” SCRUB STOCK—ONE VARIETY ENOUGH J. H. DOANE, Gouverneur, N. Y. BREEDER OF SINGLE COMB BLACK MINORCAS AND WHITE WYANDOTTES A. 9. Unless I could visit the breeder and get full infor- mation as to the breeding, would surely buy eggs from “‘line-bred stock” for a new start. A. 10. One can buy eggs from a breeder’s very best birds at a moderate price, quality considered, while to buy the best birds requires an outlay of cash that takes the ardor off most beginners. Unless a beginner fully knows the breeding of his stock, he is very liable to go wrong in breeding, if he procures stock from different breeders. Not knowing how the birds were bred, the chances are more than even that they will not breed properly from a standard-bred standpoint. Knowing what I do, would surely buy eggs from a breeder who has a repu- tation won in competition in the best shows, who breeds in line of descent, for he would inform me how they were bred and I could follow up his line of breeding. A. 11. Hit them where the chicken got the ax. Next best thing is to get a well bred standard-bred male and grade up. But life is all too short for such a course in poultry breeding. With cattle, horses, sheep or swine it is well enough to grade up. With poultry the cost of a few settings of eggs from well bred stock is small, profit and pleasure considered, and the course is all too long to spend time improving mongrel fowls. Any farmer can buy a few sittings of eggs from some nearby breeder and the chicks will be uniform (to a great extent) and that alone will give him a neat profit above his mongrel stock; while the next year he can raise-his own standard-bred chicks. A. 12. Procure his eggs, (or stock if he prefers) from a strictly fancy breeder of the breed or variety he desires to keep. Be sure they are “line-bred.”’ Select the best specimens to breed from. Get full advice from the breeder how to follow up his line of mating. Market all chicks that do not come up to a high standard. Do not be afraid to cull the second time; culls are sure to come from the choicest mating. Give your customers full value for their money and you will succeed. Not all will be pleased, but stand ready to take back all stock under a guarantee to please, for some men value a dollar too highly to be pleased even though they get the pick of your flock. You can find plenty of purchasers for your good birds. A. 13. Not having had the pleasure of plenty of means (ready ensh), my advice is to get the best stock you can, devote to it all the time and care you have at your command. Exhibit your best birds and be prepared to take defeat from the fellow who has to watch his birds, for the chances are more than even that he will wax you. Not because he is more intelligent by any means, but because being limited in means, he must watch ' every smallitem. A beginner with ample funds who will devote his spare time and watch details with care, who possesses a fancier’s pride, can select, cull and care for his birds and put 46 them in the show room in such condition that they should win. STARTING IN THE BUSINESS Many of our best fanciers who have means put their birds in the shows in the pink of condition and win. But this is a case where “millions do not count,” it is care and study that win out. A. 14. Buy the best you can; keep your eye peeled for defects and cull like fury. No buyer ever went to Dunn’s or Bradstreet’s to see where he should buy his show birds, else the writer would be awaiting his first order. Be sure you know your choice of breeds and stick to it. One variety is plenty; two should be the limit. Do not let another’s success lead you to discard your own first choice. Any one of many varieties are “the best hens on earth.” It rests with the fancier to put on the gilt edge. Remember that many others are striving for first place, and constant care and watchfulness is the price of success in the fancy. A. 15and16. I could suggest no difference in methods to be followed by these two parties, except that the beginner with moderate means would exercise more diligence and care because of his lack of funds, thereby outstripping the fellow with means, unless the latter forgets his cash and ‘‘pulls off his ecoat’’ himself. A. 17.. Single-Comb Black Minorcas. A. 18. Experience of eighteen years with Black Minorcos has convinced me that the demand for really good specimens of this breed is far ahead of the supply, and at very good prices. Not only the best birds are in demand, but birds of less quality from a show point are in constant demand properly mated as breeders. Other breeds may do well with their owners. The Minorcas being splendid layers, quick sellers and easily confined, make an ideal fowl for the fancier. There is no speculation as to the outcome; a sure profit awaits the breeder if he but lets the buying public know he has the stock and will deliver quality equivalent to the buyer’s cash. Quick growers, early layers, unlimited demand for a limited supply, make the Minorcas an ideal breed. “ A. 19. White Wyandottes. A. 20. White Wyandottes are probably bred in larger numbers both for the fancy and market than any other breed or variety. Believing as the writer does that “fancy and market poultry should go together,” and the fact that White Wyan- dottes dress plump, as broilers, light and heavy roasters or mature fowl, together with their early maturity, excellent laying qualities, docile disposition and hardiness, easily commends them as the peer of all breeds or varieties for market poultry. A. 21. Black Minoreas and White Wyandottes. A. 22. Both are very popular, quick growers, good layers, in good demand both as fancy and market poultry; large, plump bodies with excess of breast meat. Being popular and in great demand, makes these two varieties of as great if not greater as a combination for fancy and market than any other. COST OF STOCK AVERAGE COST OF RAISING PURE- BREDS FROM EGGS AT #5 A SIT- TING—KEEP A RECORD OF CHICKS FRANK McGRANN, Lancaster, Pa. BREEDER OF SINGLE COMB BLACK MINORCAS; BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCKS; WHITE WYANDOTTES AND SINGLE COMB WHITE LEGHORNS A. 9. Without much money to invest I would purchase eggs, but with ample funds would purchase the best stock that money could buy. : » A. 10. Figuring eggs at $5. per sitting, from pure-bred stock, one can expect at least a 75 per cent hatch, and should raise 75 per cent of the chicks, and should have at least a trio 47 of breeders to each sitting. A trio of pure-bred birds will cost on an average $25., and the cost of rearing chicks will be about $1. per chick. Therefore a trio of birds hatched and reared will cost $8. In buying eggs, one never knows just how good the stock which produced the eggs really is until the chicks have matured, therefore if you are not certain that the poultryman, who sells you eggs, is perfectly honest you will often come out at the small end of the horn. In buying stock direct, you can have the birds sent on approval, and if they fail to come up to your expectations you may return them. A. 11. Let him select the best females out of his entire flock and mate them separately to pure-bred Plymouth Rock or Wyandotte males. Hatch only from these pens, and in several years he will have a fine flock of market poultry. A. 12. Let him select a variety of fowls which will answer his purpose, both for fancy and market. He can sell the best of his stock for good prices and sell his eggs for hatching, and his culls will make fine market poultry. I am of the opinion that there is no better fowl for this purpose than the Plymouth Rock or Wyandotte. A. 13. Purchase a pen of the best birds which you can secure, and request the poultryman from whom you purchase to mate them for you. Place leg bands on all of your females, A SMALL COLONY BROOD COOP and use trap nests. Keep a strict account of all your eggs, by numbering them. When it comes to hatching the eggs, if you use an incubator, place each hen’s eggs in a separate compart- ment of a pedigree tray just before they begin to pip, and if you prefer to hatch with a hen, give to each hen, eggs from one hen only. When the chicks are hatched, and are ready to be removed from the incubator, or from under the hen, punch mark them in the web of the foot giving each hen’s chicks a separate mark, where there are not more than fifteen hens in the pen. Where there are more than that number, give a special mark to what you consider your best hens, and give all other hens in the pen the same mark. By following this method,. you can find out just which of your females breed the best exhibition specimens, and will also know just how to mate your birds in future seasons. As soon as you have any birds which you believe are fit to show, do so and go to the show with your birds. Here you will meet various poultrymen with whom you can compare notes, and receive some valuable information. A. 14. Buy eggs from some good reliable poultryman, and proceed as in No. 13. A. 15. Same as Nos. 12 and 13, only purchase more birds.’ 1 SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEPING A. 16. Same as Nos. 12, 13, 14 and 15. A. 17. Single-Comb Black Minorcas and Single-Comb White Leghorns. A. 18. Ihave had more demand for Black Minorcas than any of the other varieties which I have heretofore bred, and think this is due to the fact that the Minorcas lay a larger egg than any other fowl. Some people prefer to have a white bird and for this reason I have selected the Single-Comb White Leghorn, as they also possess fine laying qualities and are an excellent “all-round” fowl. A. 19. Either Barred Plymouth Rocks or White Wyan- dottes. A. 20. Because they mature very rapidly, are easily reared, and have a fine appearance when dressed for market. A. 21. Columbian Wyandottes. A. 22. Because they are very popular among the fanciers, and possess good qualities as a market fowl. EXPRESS COMPANIES RUIN EGGS EGGS FOR HATCHING LIABLE TO BE INJURED DURING SHIPMENT— SAFER TO START WITH STOCK ° W. R. GRAVES, Springfield, Mass. WHITE WYANDOTTE SPECIALIST A. 9. Would buy fowls, if not more than one pair. A. 10. For the reason that unless you can obtain the eggs yourself so as not to depend on the express companies handling, which ruins more good eggs than any other cause, you are liable to have discouraging results. Also, for the fact that ‘while you cannot buy the best birds a breeder owns at a fair price, it is doubtful if you can get eggs from the individual hens A COLONY POULTRY HOUSE that produce the prize winning or highest quality birds. The breeder usually has some stock for sale from these birds that are not their equal in points, but on account of the blood lines back of them, they will, well mated, breed stock equal ‘to their grandsires, which they usually take after. A. 11. Would advise purchasing a pure-bred male each year and breeding to the most vigorous and persistent layers. A, 12. Buy a pair or more as his means would warrant, raising all the chicks he could from them through the breeding season. 48 A, 13. Would advise him to find out the breeder that breeds and raises the prize stock at some leading show of the breed he desires, and purchase of him the best that he will sell. It is very essential that he find out for certain who has bred the winners, for they are not always bred by the exhibitor. A. 14, Would advise him to secure a partner that has had many years’ experience in this work, but has not the means to invest in it heavily himself, placing his money against the other man’s experience. A, 17. White Wyandottes or White Plymouth Rocks. A. 18. They are the best for a general purpose fowl, suiting many locations in the United States. CHEAPER—MORE SATISFACTORY To BEGIN WITH STOCK—CAN RAISE "NICE FLOCK FROM A TRIO -A. & E. TARBOX, Yorkville, N. Y. SPECIALTY BREEDERS OF SILVER LACED WYANDOTTES A. 9. Fowls. A, 10. Consider it cheaper and more satisfactory. When you buy stock you have the fowls to continue laying and to use another year if you want them. One can raise a nice flock from - a trio. A. 11. Buy a trio or pen of fowls ‘of the breed he fancied; if he could not do this, buy cockerels and better the flock that way. A. 16. Buy a few good birds and breed from them, the next year breed from them and their chicks and keep increasing until he gets the desired number. : A, 17and19. Silver Laced Wyandottes. A. 18and20. They furnish the fancier plenty of work. Are one of the prettiest breeds there is. They are one of the best general purpose fowls. A gentleman from California says: “T have always. considered the Silver-Laced Wyandottes, as bred to the present standard and as actually seen at the large shows, the greatest work in the poultry kingdom of the moulding of man’s hands, the very highest perfection of workmanship in poultry craft.’ We agree with him. They grow quickly, have a compact body, and are yellow meated. THREE OR FOUR PENS GIVE A GOOD START—HAVE THEM DIFFER- ENT FAMILIES BUT ALL THE SAME STRAIN F. W. RICHARDSON, Hicksville, Ohio BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCK SPECIALIST A. 9. Fowls. : A. 10. Buy the best money could buy. Visit some good breeder and know just what you are buying. In buying eggs you have to chance getting them from good specimens, also of getting a good hatch, and then they have to be developed well, which an experienced breeder can do best. A, 11. Buy some cockerels from some good breeder, birds that he does not wish to sell to his fancy trade on account of defective combs, eyes, etc. They can be bought at a very reasonable price and will much improve the flock. A. 12. Would buy a good breeding pen of the chosen variety and pen them separately, and should raise enough good birds the first year to get a good start of pure-breds. Sell the STARTING IN THE BUSINESS culls on market, keeping the best. specimens for the following year, and buy a good .cockerel to mate with the pullets kept. A. 13. I would buy the best male and two females that I could get of the variety I wished to breed. Have them prop- erly mated to produce the desired results. A. 14. Visit one of the best breeders having the variety desired. Purchase three or four good breeding..pens «properly mated to produce exhibition specimens, but from the same strain, Would never put much money in buildings until I was thoroughly established in the fancy. A. 15. I would want to build large, roomy buildings, large yards, and have. them well scattered; then buy the best birds possible to stock the buildings and yards. A. 16. Would start at the bottom of the ladder, by buy- ing the bést birds for breeders within my means; not expend much on the buildings at the start, and then increase as the market justifies. A. 17, Barred Plymouth Rocks. A. 18. There is no other breed on earth that has the same keen competition in the show room. It is competition that makes a great demand for high quality specimens at big prices. The Barred Plymouth Rock is the most popular breed among the farmers, making a good demand for all off-colored specimens. They are as good layers as any large breed, and sell well on the market as table fowls. THE GREATEST DEMAND AT PRICES PROFITABLE TO PRODUCER INDICATES THE BEST FROM MONEY-MAKING STAND POINT J. T. THOMPSON, Hope, Indiana BREEDER OF WHITE PLYMOUTH ROCKS AND MAMMOTH BRONZE TURKEYS A. 9. I would buy either the fowls or eggs. A, 10. If I had a reasonable amount to invest I would buy the fowls, but if my means were limited I would buy eggs, for while it takes a little more time to start with eggs, it is never- theless much the cheapest way to start. A. 11. T would advise him to buy a vigorous male of the variety that he prefers to mate with his mongrels, using good judgment of course; in selecting the male. If he wants to in- crease the size of his stock, not caring anything about improving the egg yield, I would advise him to get a male of any of the large varieties, while if he wants to improve the laying qualities of his flock, and at the same time raise stock that is good size, and will bring a good price on the market, I would advise getting a male of an American variety. A. 12. The farmer that wishes to make more money from poultry, from a fancy as well as from a market standpoint, must select a breed or variety that are good layers, good size, will mature quickly, and at the same time are popular with the fanciers of the country, which insures him a good demand for all the best specimens he raises each season, and at good prices. A. 18. I would advise him to buy from a reliable breeder some of his best specimens, buying only a few of the most select. From the same breeder I would buy each season a few eggs from his very best pens. By mating the best birds raised from his eggs with the best ones that you raised from your matings you would not be breeding them too close, and at the same time keeping your flock free from any foreign blood. Not only that, but by buying a few eggs from his best pens each season, you certainly stand as good a chance of raising as good birds as he does. A. 14. Start with eggs, as that is the cheapest way. He ‘mongrels. 49 can buy eggs from a breeder’s best pens even though he cannot buy the birds, thereby getting the right kind for his foundation stock. A. 15. Buy the fowls with which to start, selecting a variety that are good layers, of good size and at the same time that are in popular demand for fancy purposes. A. 16. My answer to question No. 15 also answers this one, with the exception that I would advise this beginner to buy eggs instead of fowls with which to start. A, 17. White Plymouth Rocks. A, 18. In raising or offering anything to sell, whether it be fancy poultry or any of the necessities of life, it is to your interest from a money-making standpoint to raise or offer for sale whatever is in the greatest demand and can be sold for prices that are profitable to the producer. . And when it is a fact that for the past ten years the White Plymouth Rocks have been in greater demand and have been sold at higher prices than any other variety, and that they are easier to breed to standard requirements than any other variety, it is certainly convincing to the most skeptical.person contemplating starting in the poultry business that this is the best. variety that he can breed. : A. 19. White Plymouth Rocks. A. 20. For layers they are excelled by no other variety, being good winter as well as summer layers, and their large size, their quick maturing qualities, their pure-white plumage, and their rich yellow skin and legs make them an ideal market fowl. EITHER EGGS OR STOCK BOTH CAN BE DEPENDED UPON TO GIVE A GOOD START IF FROM EQUALLY GOOD SOURCE C. H. WYCKOFF, Aurora, N. Y. SINGLE COMB WHITE LEGHORN SPECIALIST A. ‘9. Would buy eggs or fowls according to which best suited my needs at the time. A. 10. From the great number of reports received from our customers during the many years we have been supplying them with both breeding stock and eggs for hatching, I find that about as many credit their success to having started by one method as the other. I am therefore convinced that where the breeding stock and eggs offered are of equal strength and breed- ing, the selection may be decided by the purchaser taking which- ever is best suited to his convenience at the time. A. 11. Dispose of the mongrels entirely and start with pure-bred stock of the varieties desired. Or, if unwilling to go to this expense, purchase male birds each fall and breed up the I believe however, that the first proposition. is cheapest in the end. A, 12and13. Nothing short of preaching a whole. sermon would do this question justice, and I have quit preaching. As a short answer will say however, read the matter up in the poultry journals, study it and follow up by visiting successful poultry plants; then go to work at-it and get the knowledge by practical experience that cannot be had by any other means. A. 14and15. Obtain by the best. means available a whole lot. of practical experience. A. 16. Same answer as No. 14. While knowledge ob- tained by other means may be an aid to success, yet a thorough, practical knowledge of the branch of poultry business desired is the only thing in my judgment that will insure it. A. 17. Single-Comb White Leghorns. A. 18. My admiration for the breed coupled with the great and growing demand for them. SUCCESSEUL POULTRY: ‘KEEPING jorafts od 9s. Single;Comb. White Leghorns... . + | UO a oe art Apy 20. cThey:, will ;predyge more;-value- fuels in- their eggs laid during the year for a given amount of value (money): in the, J food consumed, than any..other,,breed or. variety of my knowledge, Z They: give me full satisfactionjin. both:pleasure and profit. ; a be eo PASee SE BEES Be ed sah os ‘ oe Bae os oe ee Gl USER ee heh aoe : 1 SMALL PLANT WELL, MANAGED mayen. oa IS, BEST. FOR, BEGINNER oF. SMALL: OR AMPLE ‘MEANS’ AND WILL ‘YIELD ae NES PROFITS IRVING F. RICE, Corian’; N. Y. Kees _ SINGLE" coms WHITE. ‘LEGHoRN SPECIALIST AE ws 1 ies de Ses » tae 9. I would buy a good: breeding pen and also apes ffotn: a reliable breeder. : A. °10. If there is a question of means a. bresder can get a,cheaper start: with eggs if he can be sure ‘he is getting what he buys. At the same time if he can buy good fowls for a founda- tion he has a profit while the chicks are growing, and the eggs from a good flock will not only pay for their. own keeping but should pay for the food-ebnsumed by the small chicks: Whilé the chicks from. purchased eggs alone must be kept.at an expense Until five or six monthsiold before any income is received, except that derived from selling the surplus cockerels. A. 11. I would advise that all mongrels are sold and a pen of standard-bred fowls purchased, but if this is not practical I would advise that a déck'of the preferred variety’ be mated to the ‘best hens of the flock adapted to this purpose. + A, 12. A-farmer to cater to the fancy poultry trade-must be also a “fancier” and must exhibit his stock at fairs and shows. After exhibiting and winning he must advertise his stock and eggs in a good poultry journal. ‘Build comfortable houses and give his poultry as much care and attention as he does his other farm stock. A.’ 13. I ear aaie a beginner aaane funds to purchase a choice breeding pen from a good reliable-breeder and pay lim ‘his price,-do‘not.dsk for his ‘“ddwest price gn his best -birds,” but pay for a. good pen carefully selected and mated for -hest results, and-then increase your floek by hatching eggs df you feel that you. can trust the‘ breeder, to send oe what syou-pay for. ~ Al 14, - Buy as many good birds as you can, then éxhibit -them at fairs and small shows until you have thoroughly learned the requirements of prize winning birds, ‘gradually entering the darge shows. .Then select a: good paper nad advertise your stock and, winhings continually until the people are familiar with ryour name and breed; always use-great care in selecting and _breeding your birds, and above,all treat; your.customers honor- oy s A.: 15, However ample the funds, I would sn go care- fully and slowly; do not embark too heavily at: first; a small ‘plant well conducted and carefully managed: will yield larger ‘profits than a large plant, dependent upon. hired help who are ‘interested only in putting in their time and drawing their pay. It is a business made up of minute details and it is the little unmanaged things and leaks that eat up the profits, A. 17. White Leghorns. A. 18. | First:. They are the most. Gractibal fox fly jand easy to hatch and raise and the best layers for the smallest ‘quantity of, feed. Second: More can be housed in a. building than can the.larger breeds. Third: There is no danger of overfeeding them, as they are active and always busy. The egg ‘farms are all stocked with this variety which proves them to be the best egg machines. Fourth: They lay. large white eggs 50 which command a faney pfive’on the:New York ‘market: » Fifth and last: They. ané'the most beautiful fowls and there‘is a Saree demand. for‘ them. ‘. bere a “Ag s39.2 White’ “Wysindobiebs’ a ee A. 20. Because.'they take on flesh quickly: and sae have a plump ‘yellow carcass, and being white, pin. feathers do not ‘show: as plainly ‘as in colored varieties.. Their bodies are always: plumip,. where. as the Rocks are-all frame until nearly matured; the‘latter put on flesh after their frames are developed: wer Ca * al BREEDING sTOCK BEST START™ = EGGS: GIVE GREATEST GOOD FOR LEAST - “'POSSIBLE OUTLAY AND ARE- BEST FOR A BEGINNER WITH A SMALL’ PURSE ARTHUR G. DUSTON, South Framingham, “Mass. WHITE WYANDOTTE SPECIALIST ‘ A.. 9. Fowls: : ; A. 10. .I1 have answered fowls’ instead ee eggs with the imental. proviso that I have the money to invest that would allow me to buy the quality that I would want. To start with stock I would be the gainer by having the birds in hand, and would not have to trust to the uncertainties, however slight, of a regula mating. . -J would. have the stock on my place con- trolling in a'great’ measure the fertility and avoiding the risk of any injury to the eBes, but the aney would be many times greater. - “ou A. 1. The inteodietion of big, iene males - sana if possible, a side pen of pureed to eraduall replace the flock of mongrels., ., A. 12. Doas already ne et a small pen of good birds dnd‘‘as fast as possible discard the common hens, have nothing but fancy birds, and by all means only one variety that they may roam at will and not:run any risk of being mixed -up with another breed. This permits one to'bend all his eneree to the perfecting of this one variety. A. 13. Buy the best to be had. Study and breed them along accepted lines. A. 14. This party must go slower and to achieve the ‘greatest success for the least possible outlay he will purchase eggs for hatching from some strong matings, raising with care the chicks, and, if he wants the best results to be obtained from the young the next year, he will be guided by the advice of the party from whom he makes his original purchase when making his matings for another -year.. A. 15. Buy a good, big flock of fair breeders for the foundation flock for the market, of the variety chosen, and one or two pens of high class birds. In this way one can continually Strengthen his whole line, by reserving the males from the best .pens to use on -the pens of breeders, thus growing stronger in quality from season to season until the whole flock is of the -highest. merit, but always going on with the knowledge that it costs less to make 7} lbs. on a well-bred male than 74 ii, ona mongrel. A, 17, White Wyandottes. - A..,18. Some years of experience with: other breeds proved to my satisfaction that in this bird was combined the greatest number of good a with the least possible number of defects. 1A. .19. White ayant: ay A. 20. For the reason I proved them fourteen years ago _and thousands have proved them since to be unbeaten as layers, this mainly deciding me as to which of the five varieties I was ‘breeding, to keep. Afterwards q ‘‘try out’?.in’ brooder! house w.oyowes STARTING IN THE BUSINESS work showed that as broilers and roasters they distanced any- thing I had tried, making 2 to 24 pounds in eight weeks. , \ A, 21, White Wyandottes. A, 22. The market side I have alread covered, and for a fancy bird we have one of the most popular of all the varieties. The best specimens are unsurpassed for beauty, grace and sym- metry, and while so many are bred the’ choicest | ting as good prices as any variety and far more than almost any other, so that a ready sale is seared any bpendes for good stock, 4 TRAP-NEST YOUR HENS ( na PUNCH-MARK ALL CHICKS AND STUDY THE BIRDS AS THEY GROW S. J. McQUILLIANDE, West Hartford, Conn. WHITE PLYMOUTH ROCK SPECIALIST A. 9. Fowls. A. 10. In the first place I would consider them the cheapest. Second: I would have a chande to study the young stock that I hatched from their eggs as they grow. A. 11. Kill them all and sell them for the best price obtainable. Start all over again with the variety of pure-breds he likes best or what he considers to be the most profitable variety for him. A. 12. Buy a trio of the variety he is most interested in, find out who raises the best of that variety, visit his place if possible, see what, you are buying, and buy the best you can afford—if only two birds, one male ‘and one female. ; mate the following year | ‘to produce better results. A. 13. I would advise a beginner to purchase a pen of four females.and one male to start with. Trap-nest your hens and set the eggs from each hen separately. Punch-mark the little chicks when they are hatched. Study your birds as they grow. When your birds are matured you will know how to If you follow this system for two or three years you are sure to raise good exhibition birds, provided you had first class stock to begin with. 1,A,. 14. Buy as good a trio as his capital will allow and proceed in the same manner as recommended in answer to No. 13. ; A. 15. If the beginner possesses some knowledge of the poultry business his course will be easy; all he will require is a little common sense and good judgment. Would advise visit- ing as many of the practical poultry plants as possible in opera- tion throughout the country and studying their methods. A. 16. Select one variety, the best adapted to your market, buy the best your means will allow, cull close every year, exhibit as much as possible, do not raise too many to start with, study the variety you select, become acquainted .with others that breed your variety and obtain from them all the information possible. A. 17. White Plymouth Rocks. A, 18. They are good layers, they are handsome to look at, they are excellent market fowls and make good broilers. The prices paid for them at the show room are as high as any other variety. A. 19. White Plymouth Rocks. A. 20. They grow faster than any other fowl that I know of; the cockerels very often go eight pounds in six and one- half months. I have had them weigh ten pounds in eight months. CHAPTER FOUR , Ri THE POULTRY PLANT LOCATION, BUILDINGS AND YARDS WHAT IS MEANT BY A GOOD LOCATION—PREFERRED TYPES OF POULTRY BUILDINGS—OPINIONS OF FOREMOST BREEDERS AS TO BEST HOUSES FOR BREEDING AND YOUNG STOCK, GIVEN IN A POULTRY HOUSE SYMPOSIUM— PROFITABLE INFORMATION FOR BEGINNER ‘AND VETERAN N MOST cases the beginner of moderate means will find it advisable to locate his first venture in the poultry business at his own home, whether it be a backyard, town lot or farm. Without funds it is usually unwise to launch the enter- prise by the purchase of real estate and so tie up all the available money in land and buildings. A small start is best; you can grow as fast as you please and your capital will permit, once you have gained the necessary experience. ; Nearly every beginner is employed at other work and he had best stick to his salaried job until he has established him- self with poultry, or demonstrated practically his ability or inability to do so. The clerk, student or mechanic can usually begin in a small way at home and 'so learn the business in hours not devoted. to other duties. The professional man will find ample employment for his leisure hours in the study and care of a small flock on the home place. Such beginners will usually find it much to their advan- tage to purchase some of the more desirable types of ready- made, low-cost portable houses. These buildings are both practical and satisfactory, being particularly well adapted to rented locations. Even permanent plants on large or small farms will find these portable houses very desirable for coloniz- ing flocks in the fields, in fact good portable colony buildings, large and small, are always convenient and servicable on any poultry plant regardless of size or permancy. The beginner with ample means will usually suit himself as to location, choos- ing one that pleases his fancy most, but he too will find it wise to go slow, make sure his site is a good one and favorable to the work in hand, while it will be best to build practical and inex- pensive buildings rather than elaborate, costly, more artistic structures. Poultry may be profitably kept for fancy purposes and to supply the family with eggs on a small town lot or in a backyard, and there are many paying poultry ventures located on village half-acre and acre homesteads. To make a living from poultry ' a five-acre farm is small enough and fifteen or twenty acres is better, but one man should seldom attempt to operate a farm exceeding forty to fifty acres as that is practically as much as he can handle to advantage without good, permanent, compe- tent, hired help, which labor is scarce and difficult to procure. A twenty-acre plant or larger ought: to grow a large proportion of the food required by the poultry and even on a one-acre place the garden should supply the family table and provide an ample stock of winter vegetable food for the flock of breeders. Any farm or land that will grow good green grass and sup- port small fruits and fruit trees will serve also for successful poultry keeping. Well drained, light sandy or gravelly loam is the best soil. Clay soil is the least desirable and heavy, soggy, sticky clay soils are really unfit for satisfactory poultry raising. Of all locations a gentle southern slope on well drained rolling 52 grass land, lightly wooded, or set with orchard fruits, is the most preferable. Shade and sunshlne are both desirable. On a gentle slope if the buildings and yards are well placed, the plant is easily kept clean and the yards practically cleanse themselves with each heavy rain. Permanent poultry houses should be placed on the higher levels of ground, never in the hollows. See that they are so located that all surface water in winter and early spring thaws and heavy summer rains will drain away from them, and also will not settle in the yards or runs. In climates where the winter temperature falls to zero or a few degrees above, or where the mean annual temperature is 56 degrees Fahrenheit or lower, all permanent poultry buildings should front or face south or a little east or south. Runs in such locations should preferably be to the south of the building but may be made on both south and north sides, if desired. ‘For climates where the mean annual temperature exceeds 60 degrees F. houses should face east or a little south of east, yards running east and west from front or back of house as desired. With fresh-air poultry houses of ordinary height from 18 to 28 cubic feet of house air space should be allowed per bird. With closed houses of usual height of stud from 28 to 40 cubic feet per bird will be required for best results. Or in houses of average height allow 5 to 10 square feet floor space for each bird in closed houses, and from 4 to 7 square feet floor space per bird in fresh air quarters. Three nests of ordinary dimensions, 14 by 14 by 14 inches each, are all that are needed for a flock of 20 layers. Six to eight inches, lineal measure, is sufficient space to allow per bird for roost room. Roosts should be 16 inches away from back walls of houses and from 14 to 16 inches apart measured center to center. For breeding stock and layers allow from 65 to 75 square feet of yard room or run for each bird in the flock. Growing chicks should have liberal or free range after they are a month or six weeks old. They can be reared in confinement but it is better not to place too close a limit on their range, give them as much or more room than you would breeding fowls. See that they have plenty of shade and shelters that are easily accessible. All yards should be planted to fruit trees like plums, peaches, cherries, apples and pears. Blackberry and raspberry bushes make ideal shade for growing stock. With convenient continuous houses and long narrow yards it is estimated that 400 breeding birds can be comfortably housed and yarded on one acre of land. One man can properly care for 1000 breeding fowls and raise from 3000 to 5000 chicks a season with suitable conveniences, but he will find his working hours pretty well occupied. There are a number of practical poultry- men who are doing this and who clean up about $1000 to $2000 a year profit from their business to pay for their time, labor and the interest on their invested capital. During the late winter and spring months they lead pretty strenuous lives and work long hours. 5 On a practical one-man-plant in the busy season it is no THE POULTRY PLANT uncommon thing for the proprietor to begin work at 4 o’clock in the morning and keep at it until bedtime, 9:30 or 10. In the summer time, after the early chicks are marketed and the coming breeders are sufficiently well grown to need less care and attention, he has more time to himself and a practical man we ‘know usually puts in his leisure hours building brooders and colony coops or renovating, repairing and building houses or yards. It sounds like a life of all work and no play, doesn’t it? Well, it is not as bad as all that, for though the hours are long and the work plenty, there are breathing spells between the working stunts. One of the men we have in mind doesn’t forget to play a little. He has a fine pleasant home on a nice farm all built and paid for by poultry. His buildings are insured for more than $4,000 and his dwelling and furnishings for as much more. He keeps two horses, two cows, has a fine garden for family use. Owns a piano and mechanical player, also a phonograph with which he drives away care on winter evenings before making the last rounds for the night of the incubators and brooders. He has to “keep pretty close to home” as his work is confining and may need his personal attention at any time, but he makes it a point to take his pleasure at home also. He can’t go to town to the theatre and his family, a good sized one, prefers to keep him company at home, so they have music and vaudeville entertainments of their own in the’ family circle to vary the monotony of winter evenings “way back in the country.” There are many city people who would be glad to change places with this poultry farmer. : A FEEDING PEN FOR CHICKS By the use of such a pen mature fowls or large chickens are prevented from eating special chick food. The slats are sufficiently far apart so that the young chicks can pass in and out of the pen. What this man has done through pluck and perseverance others can and will do. He started fifteen years or more ago. Had always been working in the city, first one job and then another with little or no success, an increasing family and the usual run of hard luck. When he struck out for the country he bought on the installment plan a good sized back country farm with buildings good enough to live in. When he moved on the place he “had only fifty cents left to his name” and began work- ing out and trading off his own labor for necessaries and for other help and labor on his home place. He started small with poultry and grew and today though pluck, push and persever-. ance is the proprietor of a successful poultry plant and has money in the bank. He says that all he possesses he owes to his hens. No doubt that is true in part but his own honest endeavor, a liking for the business and good healthful outdoor farm work, have all played an important part in his success. 53 In this chapter we haven’t room for a great variety of house plans and building instructions. The latest edition of the book Poutrry Houses anp Fixtures of the R. P. J. series is devoted exclusively to that purpose. In it will be found com- plete specifications and instructions for building modern de- pendable houses for all poultry purposes. There are incubator houses, brooder houses, buildings for breeders and layers, colony houses and coops and numerous valuable labor saving appli- ances. We particularly recommend for study the Hunter Scratching-Shed House, the Scratching-Shed Colony House, the Maine Experiment Station Curtain Front House, and the Tolman Fresh-Air House, all of which are fully described and illustrated in Pouttry Houses ‘anv Fixtures. In this chapter we present a few other good buildings that were not included in the special house book. FRESH-AIR POULTRY HOUSES Open-House Method is Tried by an Experi- enced, Observant Poultry Student in the State of Washington, Who Reports Results A MODIFIED FORM OF FRESH-AIR HOUSE IS DE- SIGNED, USED AND RECOMMENDED FOR TALL- COMBED VARIETIES IN COLD LATITUDES H. HEIDENHAIN, WENATCHEE, WASH. (With Illustrations by the Author) [Editorial Note:—Following we present Mr. Heidenhain’s article in which he relates his experience with Leghorns in the Tolman type of fresh-air houses and describes the modified form of house he found it advisable to build in the cold latitude of the state of Washington. The Tolman Fresh-Air House is fully described and illustrated in the book Pounrry Hovszs AND Fixtures of the R. P. J. series. The illustrations and descriptive matter are quite complete. It will be noticed that Mr. Heidenhain has omitted to describe the construction of the double doors used on his modified type of fresh-air poultry house. The photograph, however, shows plainly the con- struction of these doors. It is generally known that a square poultry house is cheapest in construction, other things being equal—a strong point in favor of Mr. Heidenhain’s type of house. Low cost is a strong recommendation for this house as it is for any poultry building where profit earning is the object.—Ed.] OUR EXPERIENCE WITH THE TOLMAN FRESH-AIR POULTRY HOUSE Last fall when the task was put before us to provide lay- ing houses for about 400 hens, we decided to build first two houses according to Mr. Tolman’s Fresh-Air House plan. Mr. Tolman’s reasons for the construction of this style of houses seemed to be so sound and the results obtained by him were so excellent that we thought little risk was involved in following his advice, to use the same style of house for Leghorns, although his experience was limited to Brahmas. The two houses were finished in September and were at once filled with pullets and’ cockerels of different varieties, among which the Leghorns took a prominent part. The in- habitants of these two houses were healthy and happy and seemed, at first, to stand the great changes of temperature be- tween day and night which is characteristic of our climate, pretty well. ..The pullets began to lay in November and the egg yield was steadily increasing. We got in the former part of December in one of these houses 40 pullets, not all of which SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEPING had. reached maturity, on the average of 12 eggs per day.,.: (The other house contained later hatched chickens).; Our. hopes were swelled that we had hit. the right plan and that. our egg yield from this flock soon would become still greater. . But here we were disappointed. As soon ‘as the weather became more severe the egg yield did not. even keep its own but diminished in an alarming manner. From an. average of 12 eggs during the first third of December we rapidly went down, making the average for the second third but it sight eggs per day. _ The middle of the month, had Brousie us snow and cold nights and we noticed that the combs of the Leghorn pullets got white tips and those of the Leghorn cockerels turned bluish. It was not necessary to carry the experiment any further at least as far as Leghorns were concerned. As we were short of quarters for our birds, we had to leave them in these houses, but provided for the fronts muslin doors which could be opened the full width of the front, when closed,.which hereafter was much too small.for that number of chickens, which. Mr.: Tol- man recommends to keep in such a.house. The area is but 96 square feet, which gives each fowl only 2}, square feeti Not from a theoretical, point of view, but from practical observa tion we had come to the conclusion that not-less than 4 equate feet should be allowed to each chicken. There are days on which chickens are better off: indoors than outdoors, no matter how necessary fresh air is for. their well being. The house, therefore, must have room enough for the chickens to move about and to scratch for their food. ' In a house which is overfilled, the chickens stand idle. For the phlegmatic Brahmas this may be no hardship; they also keep warm by the mere size of their bodies, but the little Leghorns soon feel chilly if compelled to idleness on a stormy day. ; Another feature in Mr. Tolman’s plan which did not find our approval is the depth of the droppings boards, caused by the use of the threefold roost. Occasions, frequently happen, especially in the fall when the weather turns severe, on which | FRESH-AIR POULTRY HOUSES FOR COLD LATITUDES To the right in the picture are two Tolman Open-Front Houses. The two square houses, with part canvas and part wooden doors, show the Tolman Houses as modified, used and recommended by H. Heidenhain, Proprietor West End Poultry Ranch, Wenatchee, Wash. done every night. A 3-inch wide strip over the top of. these doors was left open to admit fresh air. After these changes were made no more combs got frozen, in fact the color of the combs of the cockerels soon became bright red again and our egg yield increased in spite of the weather becoming still worse. The average of the last third of December was 15 eggs per day. HOW THE PLAN FOR OUR FRESH-AIR HOUSE WAS DEVELOPED During the course of this experiment the question as to the style of laying houses best adapted to our climatic con- ditions was daily discussed and finally a plan was elaborated which seemed to satisfactorily fulfill all requirements. It was out of question to follow.in future the Tolman plan, even in the modified form i. ‘e., with muslin frames in front, as, for our purpose at least, the interior arrangement was not practical. In the first; place we found the floor space 54: the chickens must be treated individually. The attendant. must be enabled by the arrangement of the roosts, to reach any single bird without disturbing the rest of the flock. This. cannot be done with three roosts, as the third one is too far away from the front of the droppings boards. To bring the roosts closer together would not do, in fact in Mr. Tolman’s plan the roosts are as close together as admissible, perhaps a little too close. Two roosts are all that should be used.. ' The wire front in Mr. Tolman’s plan’ has proved disas- trous to the large combs of Leghorns. The house being of small size the excitable. Leghorns fly right towards the front whenever a person enters the house,.thereby lacerating their combs. Here again it shows that circumstances. change con- ditions. What is right’ for the easy going Brahmas will not. necessarily suit the nervous Leghorns, - . Placing the nests under the droppings Seas as is. often: done, also in Mr. Tolman’s plan; we do not find - “practical. Not THE ‘POULTRY .PLANT(U0 Ue alone: that: it: neduces the: available. floor. area, ‘butuit, also gives dark corners in which the hens are induced ‘to Jay; andy one hag, to.stoop down andl crawl. qinder the droppings: ‘boards in search’ for eggs. il ese Ee eS He ae tay ta 1h B7E oe Having abockred. ak defects in the Tolman house.we had to avoid them int our.futuré plan without sacrificingsthe: fresh air feature. ' In the first place we had to decide the number of chick- ens to be housed in one house. All experience seems to point to a limitation of thesflock-to 50 head- Taking this as a maxi- yaensiéns, Which would give nearly200 square.- feet floor area, mum for small breeds, it means about 40 for. the largest ‘and 45 for the medium sized breeds. -If we figure for the medium sized fowls about 6} inch and for the. largest small breeds like Leghorns, about 5} inch roosting space, for breeds about 7 inch, we arrive’ in every “instance pretty close to the same result . Ee] 12%. 8X10 : trough Window Bex . N % = 5 Z R oN , ‘ eg y NM N , ~ Sasa B iS 2 ~-—-- HEIDENHAIN’S FRESH-AIR POULTRY HOUSE A.—Sectional view showing location of roosts, droppings board and nests. 3 -. Be —Plan,’ giving general dimensions and location of interior fixtures. - i. e., 28 running feet of roosting space. Using two roosts, the length of each one: would then: be 14 feet. -Therefore, the house must measure in. one direction at least .14 feet, if. the allowable greatest number of chickens“are to be-put in a ‘single. house, 55 is figured-to bé a little over 14 feet. ‘ ‘ing the number of chickens whieh can bé housed: therein: - and fresh ‘air. ‘which; offi ourse; is ‘ ‘desirablefrém’: an! ‘econémical’ point of view. As said before; ‘each! ‘chiéken should have ‘at least 4 squaré feet: floor “spade.” Phat ‘makes: for 50 head,’ 300: square feet. If 14 feet is: the: length: of one side of the ‘house, the other ‘side "There would be no hari ih making the house larger either way or both’ ways, but on! a cbtimercial: plant like! ours, no ‘money ‘can’ be thrown’ away for dispensable things. After discussing and planning the interior for other di- we finally decidéd on a 14. by 14 foot house, which, allowed the arrangement of all fixtures i in an easy and commodious: “manner and at the same time was the cheapest to bald on i of its square shape. ae - The question whether single houses or lihses with seratch- ing ‘sheds attached should be chosen, was also thoroughly “discussed.” While the latter are very nice in ‘many ways (we have. five of such houses in use) they are not cheap, .cohsider- The chickens stay either in one or the other compartment. On ae _ vold nights and on some eold days the doors mustbe kept ‘closed. Suppose the shed is in floor space just as large'as the - house proper, then the chickens have-only the benefit of half” the. building. It costs about as much: to build the partition between the house and the shed as to close the front ,of the shed, Doing this we get a house double the area and double the volume of air, which is a decided advantage . on oceassion as before mentioned. Now then. we had to provide for an seaadants of light The solution of this problem seems to us is given in the use of large doors in front of the building, as shown Jin our plan. | The question whether ea roof or hip roof was to be used was decided in favor of the latter, on account of the size of the house and saving of material. By putting the gable side to the south we managed to provide for the large doors in front, which admit all light and air required. Too much light must be avoided in a climate like ours, with almost uninterrupted sunshine for 9 months of the year. In our old scratchi sheds, the chickens do not know where to hide irom the rays of the sun. Undoubtedly the chickens like the open.sheds and ee. antly they retire to the roosting room when the sun gets too strong. Having observed this we took care to provide ‘for shade as well as light in our new plan and made the doors of such size, that at any position of the sun, the house gives shady comers as well as sunny places. The height ofthe doors is such that the sun sweeps in the course of the day over the whole floor except in summer when it is not necessary. The roosts we laid-against the north wall being the one most remote from the front and therefore giving the birds best shelter against draft when the doors are left open over night. We placed the window on the east side rather than the west side as all living beings enjoy the first warming rays of the rising sun. The space under the droppings boards we left free and placed the nests on shelves in two stories on the west wall, Likewise watering trough and grit box are placed over a shelf, thus leaving the entire floor space available for the chickens’ exercise.: It is-of little importance ‘of what material the houses are built. Local conditions are deciding in the selection of the proper lumber for walls and, the material for the roof. Like Mr, Tolman. we made it .a point to have our houses tight against. any. draft:,..We lined the walls with-hcavy water-proof build- ing paper, on the: inside, using shiplap outside, and covered the house ‘with..good roofing felt... All-fancy or decorative work SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEPING such as corner strips, molding, etc., have been omitted, our only object being the comfort of the inhabitants. These houses have been in use since December and have proved equally serviceable with Plymouth Rocks as with Leg- horns. We have had no frozen combs, although our nights in January were pretty cold and the air was damp and chilly from the time the chickens were put in until the end of Feb- ruary, only a few single days of sunshine interrupting the mono- tony of cloudy skies. We are satisfied that our poultry houses fulfill the require- ments, of our climatic. conditions, but we hardly think that one plan will answer under all conditions. All we can say is: “Study your climate and your breed‘and ‘then build to suit. FRESH-AIR HOUSE INDORSED THE TOLMAN ‘CTYPE OF FRESH-AIR HOUSE IS THOROUGHLY TESTED AND FOUND ADMIRABLY SUITED TO THE NEEDS OF POULTRYMEN IN MIDDLE TENNESSEE— MODERATE COST, HEALTHFULNESS AND SAVING OF TIME ARE STRONG FEATURES AVING had some experience with the Tolman 7 Fresh-Air House, I most heartily indorse it, at least for a moderate climate. I have used three of them the past winter, in breeding pens, the results being far more satisfactory than with other kinds previously used. In fact, I am so well pleased ,with the results that hereafter all new houses I build will be of this kind. Up to a year ago, I was using the customary tight house ventilated as well as safety would permit. Every morning when opening the houses, both my sense of smell and common sense rebelled. I could not believe that it was healthful for anything to breathe such foul air, so when the Re.iaBie Poutrry Journay described the Tolman house, I was an immediate convert. I drew my plan, purchased the material and went to work, Being somewhat of an amateur carpenter, I did all the work myself with the aid of a man of all work. The re- sult was so satisfactory and the finished house appealed so to my common sense, I went on and built two more. The houses cost me $20.00 each for material, rough lumber at $6.00 per thousand and flooring at $17.50. The picture herewith, I took of one of them. I built my houses according to the dimensions given by you —14 ft. long, 8 ft. wide, 4 ft. high at front, 6 ft. at rear and 8 ft. at peak, and for a breeding pen house it is large enough. The frame is made of 2 by 4’s, two being nailed together for the sills, only one-half of each lapping the other, the inside one j E. L. PARSONS forming a shoulder on which to rest the uprights and floor joists. A two inch corner is cut out of the ends of floor joists so that when they rest upon the shoulder the top comes even with the outside of sill. The three sides of house are covered with tongue and grooved flooring, the dressed side in, then this is covered with a roofing paper and painted, making a thor- oughly tight’ and dry wall and giving a good clean surface in- side. The floor is of rough poplar boards fitted closely at all sides, this being covered with building paper and then with the flooring same as used on: sides, making a tight, warm, floor and which comes up about two inches above where the sides of house join the sills, insuring a dry floor. The roof is of rough common lumber, but it would be better to have it edged and dressed, covered with roofing paper and held more firmly in place by means of 4 by 3 strips, all well coated with a good roofing paint. The front is enclosed with 1-inch mesh poultry wire, in the corner being a small door for the birds to go and come. The door is a regular panel house door and the window a 12 by 14-8 light, both set in frames made out of 4-inch strips, door, sash and frames being painted. The house photographed, of which I enclose a print, being built in a temporary location, is set right upon the ground, but those built at permanent locations are set up on posts and as the ground is quite sloping, the front is about three feet higher above it than the rear. This allows the air to circulate under- neath, gives the birds additional shelter and makes a good place for drinking fountains and hoppers. 56 THE POULTRY PLANT The front part of the house is used for a scraching pen, a 12-inch board set on edge dividing it from the back part, the latter being used for roosts and nests. I use a sloping drop- pings board hinged to back of house 2 ft. 6 in. above the floor, the front edge overlapping a trough to catch the droppings. Every morning it is scraped with a hoe and droppings carried away, then by means of rope and pulley is raised out of way of nests. These are six in number and trap, and are placed under the droppings board. The roosts, two in number, rest upon two supports which are hinged to wall at back and rest upon legs at front. They are one foot above the board and the legs slide upon it when all is raised and lowered together. When board is being cleaned, roosts are raised and held by a strip. It is all much more simple than it sounds. Only about three minutes each morning and again each evening is required to put all.in order; it is easily cleaned and kept clean; the birds always have fresh, wholesome air to breathe; and it is a pleasure to keep fine birds under such conditions. My birds are Barred Rocks and White Wyandottes and I believe that if the youngsters are raised in open front coops and gradually hardened, all but the most tender breeds will do better in such houses most anywhere in the States. If the houses are made as tight as mine are, there can be no drafts and I have not seen a sign of dampness although there is such'a tendency toward it where I live, that it is almost impossible to keep free from it in my dwelling. Believing ‘that this style of house not only improves the quality of a flock, but adds materially to the health and com- fort of the birds, I hope many readers will give it a trial. To those who do, I would say, make the roof, sides and floor tight; door and window fitting so that a draft through them is im- possible; insure a circulation of air under the house; and in summer time remove door and window, substituting poul- try wire. 7 PIANO BOX POULTRY HOUSE THE POULTRY PLANT CHEAP COLONY MONSES FIVE DOLLAR PIANO. BOX HOUSE AND | THE DUSTON TEN DOLLAR COLONY BREEDING OR BROODER HOUSE PIANO BOX HOUSE Purchase two good second hand upright piano boxes; they can usually be had for $1.50 to $2: each. Buy a six light 8 by 10 glass window, second hand one will answer, at a cost of 25 to 50 cents. Two strap hinges, a small roll of tar paper, caps and nails, a doorhasp and staple, a soap box for nest and a five-foot piece of 2 by 3-inch stuff for a roost, these are the other necessaries. All told, the equipment should not exceed $5. Place piano boxes back to back 2 feet apart with ends south, first removing the backs and tops of both boxes. Draw all nails with a nail puller and save them. Use one of the tops for the floor between the boxes and the other to close the open space between the north ends of two boxes. They will need very little fitting. Cut 2 feet off one back to make a door for the south end and hang it with the strap hinges to the west box to swing west and out, space between south ends of boxes is opening closed by this door. Saw out a hole in the lower part of south end of, east piano box to fit window, 2 feet square is right. Fit in the six-light, 8 by 10 glass, window on.the inside of this hole to slide up 10 inches and then west" to take out. This serves for window and chick door. PIANO BOX COLONY HOUSE To make roof saw one of the boards, 6 feet long and 8 inches wide, found in-all piano boxes, diagonally from one corner lengthwise to opposite corner. Nail one of these triangular pieces to north end, butt of wedge (8 inch end) to east and one to south end butt of wedge to east—this gives a pitch for your roof. Make roof of the balance of backs and make it tight. Use roofing ‘paper or tar paper to cover slope of east box, entire roof and all of west side; batten it on with laths if location is very windy, otherwise the tin caps and nails will be all that are need- ed. Roost should: be placed in west box two feet from floor. Soap’ box filled with straw serves as nest bex. This house will serve as quarters for half a dozen breeding birds or will make an excellent’ brood house for two’ sitting ‘hens, and will care foe them uy their Hoe to maturity. “ : a8 f ‘DUSTON .COLONY HOUSE - The house herein described was. designed. by.. Arthur G. Duston, White Wyandotte: specialist.. This: house is 10. feet long and 5 feet wide, 5 feet 34 inches high in front, and 4 feet . 2 inches in the back. .A large double window furnishes light. “Tt is ‘placed low in the house, one foot from the board floor. “is made in two sections. 59 When the door is open, the sun shines in as though it were an open shed. The door is 2 feet 6 inches, by 4 feet 6 inches and The inner section ‘is hinged to the outer, thus making a door within a'door. The opening in the door proper is covered with one inch mesh wire netting. This permits of the opening of the panel door. In winter, except in stormy weather, this outside door is left open all day. When closed, the building is tight and warm. The first. year there is no need of papering the sides, but after that the openings from shrinkage make drafts, which, df course, the birds cannot stand. The roof is covered with any good roofing fabric. This colony house is built of 2 by 3 inch studding and 4 inch matched stock. MATERIAL REQUIRED This house is 10 ft. long by 5 ft. wide, inside measure. It requires 230 ft. matched stock and 118 ft. 2 by 3 stock as follows: . Three side sills 2 by 3s 10 ft.; two end sills 2 by 3s 5 ft. Halve (rabbeted joint) sills together. Two side plates 2 by 3s 10 ft.; two end plates 1 by 3s 5 ft. 14 in. Set end plates even with top of side plates. Set all 2 by 3 pieces edgewise. Three front posts 2 by 3s 4 ft. 9 in.; two back posts 2 by 3s 8 ft. Frame sills and lay floor, then set posts on top of floor and under plates. Boarding on front 5 ft. 34 in. long; boarding on back 4 ft. 2 in. long; boarding on roof 5 ft. 8 in. long. _Two 2 by 4s 10 ft. shoes, spiked under sills. One 2 by 4, 10 ft. roosts. One 12- light window sash, 12 inches above floor. One 14 by 2, 14 ft., cut to go above sash. One door 2 ft. 6 in. by 4 ft. 6 in. One door (small), 1 ft. 10 in. by 3 ft. 9 in. Two 24 in. hooks and eyes. Two pair 3 in. strap hinges. Approximate cost $10. The house is built on two pieces of 2 by 4 in. stuff, rounded at the ends. A work horse can haul one of these houses all over the farm. Anyone can hang three or four foot wire netting on stakes driven in the ground and in a few minutes have a house and yard ready for occupancy. This colony house makes an admirable building for a pen of fine breeding birds or ten or a dozen layers. It is also well adapted for use as a brooding house for hens with chicks or for an individual indoor brooder. For colonizing growing chicks in flocks of thirty to fifty. A, .G. DUSTON’S, PRACTICAL COLONY. HOUSE POULTRY HOUSE SYMPOSIUM PROMINENT POULTRYMEN GIVE THEIR. OPINIONS ON POULTRY BUILDINGS—COLONY HOUSES “RECOMMENDED FOR POULTRY OF ALL AGES AND PARTICULARLY FOR YOUNG STOCK In this symposium a number of the leading American breeders express their opinions concerning the preferred styles of poultry houses. large number of breeders all over the country: Q. 23. What style of house do -you prefer, as a fancier, for breeding stock? Q. 24.° What style of house for young stock? Q@. 25. Do you favor the colony plan for housing young stock? Q 26. Ifso, what,style of colony house do you use? The answers to these questions will be found under the name of each breeder making a reply, and each answer is given the same number as the question asked. Study and comparison of these answers will prove exceedingly interesting to those who contemplate erecting poultry buildings. The answers are given The following questions were sent out to a briefly and get right down to business without any waste of . words. Many of the poultry buildings herein recommended,notably the A. F. Hunter scratching shed house, the fresh-air colony house, apex or A shaped house, and small colony houses, are described and fully illutrated in the book of the R. P. J. series entitled Pouttry Houses anp Fixturss, in which book com- plete information as to specifications and building instructions is given in detail, so that any person who is at all familiar with the use of carpenter’s tools can easily erect such buildings as he may desire. I. K. FELCH, Natick, Mass. BREEDER OF LIGHT BRAHMAS, WHITE WYANDOTTES, BARRED AND WHITE PLYMOUTH ROCKS A. 23. A two-story house; birds learn to go up and down stairs. The yards can be planned to cover the greatest number of feet, with the least cost for fencing, and the flock cared for with the least labor. A. 24. Colonize the young stock where they can have the greatest liberty to glean from the fields the slugs, insects and worms. Keep no more than 25 to 40 in these small houses, placing the houses as far as possible in shaded retreats. A. 25. Yes. I colonize’*my standard-bred stock and give them the liberty of the farm. A. 26. Most anything does for colonizing chicks; abso- lute free air open sheds. If a chicken lives practically in the open air until the middle of October, it is best to get them into winter quarters before the frosty nights come. Plan for free ventilation of the winter houses. A. C. HAWKINS, Lancaster, Mass. WHITE, BUFF AND BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCKS, SILVER, BUFF AND WHITE WYANDOTTES - A. 23. I prefer a house with shed attached or a house with open shed underneath, so that the fowls can have exercise in the open air in all kinds of weather. A. with floor and covered with 4-inch mesh wire netting. I put 24. For young stock I prefer a colony coop 4 by 8 ft.. ‘desired slant at other times. 60 fifty chicks with four hens in such a coop and leave the chicks there until matured. A. 25. . Yes. A. 26. A coop 4 by 8 feet, 3 feet high in front and 2} feet in rear, boarded on back and ends with }-inch mesh wire in front. J. C. FISHEL & SON, Hope, Ind. WHITE WYANDOTTES A. 23. Colony house with large yards, plenty of shade, and set well in blue grass; never put in so many birds as to ruin the growth of the grass. A. 24, Same style, not too many in house and yard. A. 25. To some extent, only let them have free range. A. 26. Simply a shed-roof house about 8 by 10 or 12 feet according to the flock, but be careful not to crowd; there is where so many make a mistake. W. W. KULP, Pottstown, Pa. Ss. C. AND R. C. WHITE AND BROWN LEGHORNS, WHITE WYANDOTTES, BUFF AND BARRED ROCKS AND PEKIN DUCKS A, 23. I prefer a very good and handy house but use common ones. I prefer a house with a scratching shed, as the fowls like the open air. Any kind of a plain room cannot be improved on with the sides double, and enough windows to light it well. An alleyway makes the feeding and watering simpler but makes the room smaller or causes more expense. A, 24, All my houses are plain shed roof houses, most of them alone in a yard. This is of great benefit to the birds but adds to the labor. A. 25. I like the young to have all the room possible to range. ALBERT F. DIKEMAN, So. Peabody, Mass. WHITE WYANDOTTES AND WHITE PLYMOUTH ROCKS A, 23. Shed roof, low at back. Absolutely wind and weather proof at back, ends and roof; high enough in front to allow sun to penetrate to back wall; pens twelve feet deep and ten feet wide. Two window openings in each pen (in front), one filled with a frame, this being covered with coarse burlap, the other to contain two sash (6 lights each) 10 by 13 inches; top sash hinged at top to swing out, thus keeping out both snow and rain. All fixtures, except dropboards, removable, and all easily cleaned. A, 24. Open front colony house with hinged hood in front, arranged to turn back on bright days and to fit any Floor 5 by 8 feet, back three feet high, front five feet; front tight boarded from floor up 2 feet. A. A, 25. Most emphatically. 26. Fully answered ‘in 24, THE POULTRY PLANT ' ROWLAND G. BUFFINTON, Somerset, Mass BUFF, SILVER PENCILED AND COLUMBIAN WYANDOTTES, BUFF AND PART- RIDGE PLYMOUTH ROCKS, BUFF ORPINGTONS, R. I. REDS, BUFF, BLACK, WHITE AND PARTRIDGE COCHIN BANTAMS A. 23, Colony houses have given us the best results, having tried houses 200 feet long and cut them up for the colony plan. Conditions are changing; we need houses to save labor and have in mind plans for a 200 hen house for one flock. A. 24, We find nearly all of the chicken colony houses suitable for the purpose. A. 25. Yes. A. 26. Piano boxes placed on the side and roof raised to make one pitch. W. B. CANDEE, De Witte, N. Y. WHITE WYANDOTTES A. 23. Long house, not less than 18 or 20 feet wide; alley on north side, pens in south. Separate yards for each pen. A. 24, Colony houses for young stock with free range, house to be 6 feet square, shed roof 54 feet high in front and 4 feet in back, sides of matched stuff, paper roof, door in front 2 feet wide, chick slide about 8 by 10 in window, 6 light 8 by 10, window hinged at top to swing in, opening covered on outside with 1-inch wire mesh netting. A. 25. Yes, after the chicks have been kept in the nursery brooder for at least six weeks. J. H. JACKSON, Hudson, Mass. WHITE WYANDOTTES A. 23. I prefer a one slant. roof high enough in front to, walk through; slant to about 5 feet in rear, face south if possible. No rear walk, go right through pens; the birds are not so wild being among them, a good point in breeding fancy or show fowls. A. 24. On colony plan that would hold about 30 to maturity. A. 25. Yes. A. 26. A slant roof, from size of a dry goods box to 10 feet in length. W. R. CURTISS & CO., Ransomville, N. Y. WHITE WYANDOTTES, S. C. WHITE LEGHORNS AND MAMMOTH PEKIN DUCKS A. 23. We prefer colony houses and lots of range. A. 24, Pipe system for starter; transfer to colony house on range. A, 25. Yes. A. 26. We use Apex house 6 by 8, on skids to move easily. WILBER BROS., Petros, Tenn. S. C. WHITE LEGHORNS A. 23. We use and much prefer, especially in the south where our winters are mild and summers warm, the open-front scratching shed style. Probably this style of house would not suit the northern or eastern breeders in their deep snows and zero weather. It gives great satisfaction south where the winters are mild and deep snows seldom seen, and birds can be on ground most every day in the year. : A. 24. For young growing ‘stock we prefer and use movable houses made of light wood and often piano boxes or large dry goods boxes, well covered and ventilated, that we can move often from place to place that birds may have new range. A. 25. We certainly approve and use colony houses for young stock. A, 26, We make our colony houses, as answered in a previous question. WILLOW BROOK FARM, W. L. DAVIS, Berlin, Conn. 8. C. BUFF. BLACK AND WHITE ORPINGTONS A. 23. I consider a colony house preferable for breeding, especially for fancy stock, with plenty of room and green runs continually. A. 24. I like the style of house that we build ourselves here at: Willow Brook Farm. ‘A. 25. Colony houses for young stock is the proper method. We use them exclusively at our farm, and have met with the best of results. A, 26. We use a small 3 by 6 foot shed-roofed colony house. We generally plan to have about 15 to 20 birds in each house. THOMAS F. RIGG, Iowa Falls, Iowa. HOUDANS AND WHITE WYANDOTTES A. 23. Detached’ houses, each with roosting pen and scratching shed; three to four feet between ceiling joist and roof, this space filled in with oat straw. In such a house there can be no frost or dampness. * Air will be pure and’ fowls healthy. Never again. will-I have a closed ceiling in a poultry house. A. 24, Roomy colony houses. A. 25. Yes. : A. 26. Shed-roof building 12 by 16 feet, facing east. Our prevailing winds and storms are from the’ south-west in the summer and fall and spring. ‘ : H. J. BLANCHARD, Groton, N. Y. S. C. WHITE LEGHORNS A. 28. Colony plan, double slant third pitch roof with straw loft system of ventilation in gable, warmly built and supplied with glass windows and also muslin covered frames to slide in the opening in place of the glass windows when wanted for ventilation. Also prefer board floors. With this style house the birds can be kept comfortable in extremely cold as well as in mild weather. ; A. 24. Colony plan 12 by 20, double slant third pitch roof, board floor. Two windows, 6 lights 9 by 13 in south side, door 40 inches wide in each end at south side, opening outward, also slatted doors at same opening swinging inward, for addi- tional ventilation in hot weather. A. 25. Ido. A. 26. Described in 24. O. E. SKINNER, Columbus, nace BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCKS, BUFF AND PARTRIDGE COCHINS A. 23. I use an inexpensive house on the isolated plan. I have one house on the collective plan, 102 feet long, but my isolated (colony) houses give me the best results. My breeding pens are 8 by 10 with scratching shed. For young stock 8 61 SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEPING by 16. . These houses have one slant to roof, 7 feet high on south and 34 on north, 14 feet ship-lap: cuts without waste. Door on south side at east corner, windows: just west of door. Roosts to the west end all on a level 14,inches from the ground. A small window in center of east end. above scratching shed roof. Scratching shed on east end of building with small open- ing closed with slide. A. 24. As above, after old enough < take from brooder. A. 25. Yes. A. 26. I use the same houses that they live in through fall and winter, having scratching sheds attached for bad weather. EDW. KNAPP, KNAPP BROS., Fabius, N. Y. ss Cc WHITE LEGHORNS A. 23. A continuous house with glass, wood and_ cloth front, so constructed as to give plenty of light and. ventilation. Much less work, and business can be better managed in early spring. A, 24. We prefer the colony house plan. A. 25. Wedo. : A, 26. A movable, well’ lighted and ventilated, cheaply constructed building, 8 by‘ 16, shed roof, good height on front side. J. W. PARKS, Altoona, Pa. BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCKS A. 23. The A. F. Hunter “Open-Front.” We make ours in pairs, in other words, we make our frame 10 by 38. We-divide this in the center and have two compartments 10 by 19. We again divide each compartment, and have a roosting room 10 by 9 and a scratching shed 10 by 10. We place our roosting t AN ENGLISH TYPE OF PORTABLE HOUSE rooms in the center, and have our scratching sheds on each end. We place our nests, roosts, water table and male bird cage in the roosting room, and in the scratching shed we have our dust box, dry mash hoppers, grits, etc. We have our houses 7 feet high in front and 5 feet in rear with a two-foot projection in front of house, so as to leave a dry place for chickens and at- tendant. We have a 3 by 5 window in our roosting room, and a 3 by 7 open front in our scratching shed. We of course have muslin curtains to let down over the open front during cold ‘62 nights and. stormy days: We also have a muslin door between roosting room and ncravelang shed which we close es zero weather. , A. 24, Sled runner colony house. — A. 25. We have raised chickens with almost every style of coops and have settled down to the colony houses. A. 26. We ‘use. the sled runner colony house. They are built on three 3 by. 6 inch joists, and the ends of the. 3 by, 6 pieces are sawed off. like a, sled runner. We ‘make our houses 6 by 7 feet floor and 6 feet high i in front, and 4 feet high in back. We make them out of matched lumber, and have double floors, with a window and door in front. We place our brooders in them in the early spring,.and move them around with a horse each two weeks even if it is only the length of the house, as by doing that we keep our grass from getting killed. U. R. FISHEL, Hope, Ind. WHITE PLYMOUTH ROCKS A. 23. Colony house 8 by 24 with roosting room 8 by 12 and scratching shed 8 by 12. Double wall with curtain front. .A splendid house at little expense. A. 24. We use piano box colony house 5 by 10 feet, made out of two piano boxes at cost of $7. A. ‘25. To be sure. A. 26. 5 by 10 feet, made of piano boxes. ARTHUR G. DUSTON, So. Framingham, Mass. WHITE WYANDOTTES A. 23. ‘A fairly substantial building is always needed but all filagree is unnecessary and I would never build over a 50 foot building. I like a double pitch roof, a door and window in each pen to’allow ample ventilation and all the sun possible. . A. 24, Iam using a colony coop 10 by 5 feet, shed roof, but were I to build more, would make them 10 by 6 feet, as a little more depth is preferable even if the house was shortened somewhat. A. 25. Yes, if yarded, but find that where used and houses not far enough apart the different sizes will get mixed and all kinds of trouble ensue. A. 26. Yes. 10 by 5 feet, 4 feet high in rear and 5 feet front. One outside window let down for light. Ten years with this style of house has proven one of the best houses I have, and has been copied by hundreds with entire satisfaction to them. F. C. SHEPARD, Toledo, Ohio BUFF PLYMOUTH ROCKS A. 23. Plain shed roof with dirt floor; drop curtain, ronst cover; muslin, doors and windows. A, 24, Same. A. 25. Yes. A; 26. Piano boxes with wire screens and muslin front. AUG. D. ARNOLD, Dillsburg, Pa. COLUMBIAN WYANDOTTES A. 23. I prefer a house with open front for summer and muslin front for real cold weather; too warm housing is the greatest cause of disease. Scratching sheds separate from the roosting apartments are very desirable, ° A. 24. Houses with open fronts without roosts until UMPHE POULTRY PLANT“) ” birds‘ate nearly grown; theée hotises so arranged-that when signs of cold rains in the fall are apparent the chicks can: be: kept inside till‘thé rains-are over. ' + + pe i A; 1850) Dfawor it, but do not use it as most o = birds'are raised on farms. Paes rag ! ceed ee 8: DUNNING, Aubin, N. Y. ‘Sousa ee BARRED ‘PLYMOUTH ROCKS ; Vee A. 28. A. 24. Colony house large enough for 25 half-grown chicks. ; A, 25) Yes." A. .,26., For young. stock house 5 by.8 feet, wire front in which muslin curtains can be usediin cold: weather. & Uiyita ” : : Nye: y aor? eA - OBERNDORF, Centralia; Kansas S$. C, WHITE LEGHORNS AND BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCKS 4.! 23. The open shed. A. 24. Colony houses 34 by 64 feet floor space, 2 feet high in back, 3 feet high in front, well ventilated. AS "95. Yes. ‘AL 26. Answered in 24. E. B. THOMPSON, Amenia, N. Y. BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCKS A. 23. Coils houses wails alleyway are taost convenient and my choice. Small houses for a breeding pen do well placed in a large yard. A, 24. I use colony houses till birds are put in large winter quarters. AL 25. Yes. A, 26. Single house. aa MRS. TILLA LEACH, Cheneyville, Ill. BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCKS A. 23. The “Hunter ‘Scratching Shed House” with door between roosting room and shed always open. A, 24, Open front roosting coops about 4 by 6 feet. GEO. H. BIE, Racine, Wis. BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCKS A. 25. Yes, I favor the colony plan. A. 26. My colony houses are 6.by 6 floor space, 5 feet high in front, 3 feet in rear, with double doors in front. ROSEDALE POULTRY FARM CO., : Greenwood, Mass. WHITE WYANDOTTES A. 23. Portable houses 6 feet front by 8 feet side on ground, 6} feet high at the front: with one door opening into + yard, and window with small burlap frame above window for ventilation during cold weather; 44 feet high at back. Door and window. open at all times, except extremely cold or stormy weather. Long. laying houses. 10. by 10 sections, 64 feet at front, 4}cfeet at back.. One window and one door in front opening into yard, ventilated with burlap frame as above. Colony houses large enough for one dozen fowls. A, 24. Portable houses as above: described: ' A, 26. -Yes.' % if ‘4,26. Portable houses as previously described. a FRANK D. HAM, Livingstone, N. Y. BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCKS A. 28. Long house divided into pens 10 by 10 with alley on north side and a good sized window on south side of each pen. A, 24. Small house, to hold 50 tq,75. birds. A. 25. Yes. W. S. HARRIS, Mansfield, Mass. 4 RHODE ISLAND. REDS 23. Ifhe i “only a few acres, long | houses. 24. Houses about 10 feet square. | 25. I prefer it when one has plenty of land. 26. I have some 8 by 8; most of my houses are of the long type. ~ Sh WM. BYWATERS, Camden Point, Mo. BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCKS A, 24. I keep little chicks in brood coops till they out- grow them, then they are placed in colony houses of any con- venient pattern till sold - ies breeders or moved into winter quarters. A. 25. Ido. C. H. WELLES, Stratford, Conn. BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCKS A. 28. I like the houses with cloth or curtain front facing the south. These are the best ventilated and birds do the best in these houses with more even temperature. The cloth front allows the moisture to escape, keeping the house dry at all times and more birds can be housed in a building of this kind. A. 24. I would use same as above. A. 25 Idon’t favor a small house; birds need to be active and have plenty of room to work in. A. 26. Am using small colony houses now. J. C. MACOMBER, Reading, Mass. PARTRIDGE WYANDOTTES AND BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCKS A, .23. My breeding:house is 165 feet long, 12 feet wide, containing 18 pens. These pens are 8 by 12. The back of the house is 5 feet high and the front 7 feet. with a window and a door in each pen, the door opening into the yard. There is also a door from one pen to the other following right up through the house. There is no floor in the house, but sand is kept to the depth of 6 to 8 inches with straw and hay above this. Each pen is boarded up tight, so that there will be no draft as is the case with wire partitions in a long house. The droppings boards are 18 inches from the top of the sand and the roosts far enough apart so that it is impossible for. the birds to rub their tails and wear them out against the back of the house, or against each other. A, 24, After taking the young stock out of the brooder house, they are put in colony houses, 6 feet wide, 8 feet long, 4-feet high in the back and 6 feet in front. No floor excepting SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEPING sand and no opening except the front. In the front are two doors. Each one has a frame covered with cotton cloth. On the outside over one of these doors is fine chicken wire so the door may be left open nights while the larger door is closed. During the day time, both doors are left open unless it is desired to keep the chickens inside. A. 25. Ido. A. 26. Answered under 24. : \ F. J. WEHRMEYER, Benton Harbor, Mich. WHITE WYANDOTTES A. 23. Prefer a building (such as we use) which gives plenty of fresh air, using curtain front and one in which the attendant as well as owner must be among the birds while feed- ing, etc. This accustoms them to being handled, etc., which does not hurt them, and visitors or prospective buyers enjoy being among them (rather than viewing them through bars or netting); it affords everybody more pleasure. ‘A, 24, Indoors until warm days and then out in any- thing comfortable and under control of attendant in case of bad weather. If incubator,hatched, then indoor brooders with outdoor ruts until warm enough to place out in colony small coops or houses. A. 25. Yes. | A. 26. Not always what we’d like to use. Our idea and what we are aming to use is a large enough box or house on runners moved from place to place and removable yard surround- ing. We have some. Our other idea is to have permanent building with double run so as to keep one green all the time. This suits us. The main idea with us is to use something where the stock can remain from beginning to maturity. DR. O. P. BENNETT, Mazon, Ill. BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCKS A. 23. I prefer a plain south front house about 16 feet wide and not over 72 feet long, lined with two-ply tarred felt. A. 24, The colony houses that can be moved about. A. 25. Yes. A. 26. CT DoveLe winoows \ | ARROWS SHOW Ale CURRENT | | FOR VENTILATION | | ; DOUBLE 8 |] coors | © "i | | VENTILATING | | HOLES IN INNER: | LOOO0O0 | I 21’ FIG. 2—SECTIONAL VIEW SHOWING VENTILATING SYSTEM cellar he was surprised to find that, after doing all the work re- quired, filling the lamps, trimming them, attending to the regu- lation of the machines, filling the machines, turning the eggs, testing them and everything necessary from starting the eggs until the chicks were ready to be taken to the brooders, the average time required per machine was not over ten minutes per day. cleaning, which was quickly accomplished by means of a pocket knife and a soft cloth. With a cement floor and the table on rollers or small wheels it would be still more convenient. Such an incubator house will be found a most satisfactory style to run, it being easy to have perfect ventilation at all times, and very little difficulty in keeping the heat at an even temperature even in warm weather. 123 at SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEPING MODEL BROODING HOUSE PLANNED TO ACCOMMODATE CHICKS NEWLY HATCHED TO THOSE SIX WEEKS OLD—FORTY- TWO PENS WITH “PROGRESSIVE” RUNS INTO WHICH THE CHICKS ARE DAILY MOVED—INCUBA- TOR ROOM AND IMPORTANCE OF VENTILATION C. H. PAYNE, C. E. We have visited a number of poultry plants, both in Europe and America, and have been astonished to see the great dis- advantages under which poultrymen are frequently struggling. The trouble is, so many plants have grown up bit by bit, without any definite object in view. Additions have been made to suit the convenience of the moment, and as a whole they are far from economic or satisfactory. In starting a poultry plant, no matter whether you have an acre or a hundred acres, make or have made for you, a plan of how you can best utilize the whole of your land so as to enable you to run a big business with the bule and prevents a rush of cold air entering the room and so lowering the temperature. One of the details that is frequently overlooked is the ven- tilation of the incubator room. It is simply absurd to install the room with machines, scientifically designed to supply the embryo chicks with pure air when the room is imperfectly con- structed, and does not itself contain pure air. In civil engineer- ing we have had considerable experience in the ventilation of public buildings, and therefore speak understandingly. We tell you plainly that it is not enough to have an inlet here and an outlet there, and trust to natural ventilation. The poultry- man who would put perfect vitality into his chicks can only do so by the oxidation of the embryo by a constant supply of pure ae | a Pav dary qd L/S NY VE LL+ PPO /NcuvBATOR fFroom FIG. 1-GROUND PLAN OF BROODER HOUSE WITH INCUBATOR ROOM AND “PRO- GRESSIVE RUNS” FOR CHICKS UP TO SIX WEEKS OLD least possible labor. Then build as little or as much as you wish, but stick to your plan, and you will ultimately have a com- plete plant with every building in the right place. As a guide to the beginner, or to the poultryman who finds himself all wrong and decides to start over again, as many successful poultrymen have had to do, we shall describe and illustrate some parts of. the plan that we are working upon in building up the Utility Poultry Farm. There are of course many differences of opinion in the handling of chickens, and there are many methods. After thirty years’ experience during which we have studied and investigated the best methods on both sides of the Atlantic, we have adopted these ideas, among others, as giving the best results for the money invested. INCUBATOR ROOM AND ITS VENTILATION The incubator room is of the usual character, sunk into the ground to a depth of three feet. This depth of excavation is ample in the northern states for up-to-date machines. The furnace room for the brooder house is also sunk three feet below the corridor floor and the entrance to the incubator room, being through this sunken part of the brooder house, acts as a vesti- Gipss VPuwg air into the incubator room. This air should contain in its bulk about twenty-one parts of oxygen to seventy-nine parts of nitrogen; which is essentially common pure air, If we intro- duce such air into the incubator, this oxygen of the air passes freely through the porous shells of the eggs, and in the more developed stages of the embryo, much of the oxygen is con- sumed as fuel in supplying the animal heat, and the volume of air that leaves the machine contains carbon dioxide in place of the oxygen that went in. Then again, the lamps of the machines in the act of com- bustion consume a quantity of oxygen, which undergoes a similar chemical change, and so the atmosphere of the room becomes charged with noxious gases, which, to say nothing of the peculiar odor of the oil of the lamps, renders the air void of life-giving power. We must therefore adopt some definite method of cir- culating throughout the room, without drafts, a continuous and sufficient supply of fresh pure air. TO PREVENT STAGNANT AIR With a temperature of sixty degrees in the room and an external temperature of forty degrees, two ordinary flues open- 124 INCUBATION AND BROODING ing two or three feet above the floor level will, if of sufficient capacity, maintain a constant change of air; simply because there will be twenty degrees of difference in the specific gravity of the interior and the exterior. The lighter air, together with the diffused impure gases floating therein, would be forced out of the room by the pressure of the superior air of the external atmosphere. Obviously, then, there is no difficulty in keeping the incubator room right in cold weather. The trouble is when the external atmosphere registers seventy degrees and the room also seventy degrees, there is then no margin of difference in the specific gravity, hence the air becomes stagnant. To increase the temperature of the room beyond seventy degrees would be wrong, because it would reduce the circulating power of the ventilating system of the incubators. One of the foremost incubator manufacturers puts eighty degrees as the maximum temperature in which his machine should work, giv- ing the machine twenty-two degrees of working power. While an incubator will give fair results under such conditions, we know by actual test that it will do very much better when the room is kept down to seventy degrees. We therefore lay down what will, sooner or later, come to be observed as a general rule, namely, that a building erected especially for incubators, shall A FRESH AIR BROODER Our brooder house, as will be seen by the illustration (Fig 1), is designed on the “progressive” plan with forty-two pens. The chicks are put in at one end, and pass from pen to pen daily, and come out at the other end when six weeks old. Let us point out wherein we believe many brooder houses are wrong: They do not provide sufficient space to enable the chicks to obtain proper exercise during bad weather, and they do not provide enough fresh air. The chicks are too often coddled and pam- pered as if they were exotics, and are kept in a hot house tem- perature. Such a system is not well calculated to produce a large percentage of healthy chicks. / We know that chickens have lungs for the purpose of breathing in the air to gain its oxygen. These lungs in their size, their coatings and their rapidity of respiration are adapted to an atmosphere of pure air. If we fail to supply this all our efforts in other directions are rendered futile. Fresh air is one of nature’s most bountiful gifts, and yet untold numbers of chickens perish every year for the want of it. We have dem- onstrated with the large pipe brooder at South Dartmouth, Mass., that “infant mortality” is wholly preventable. Chicks FIG. 2-SECTION OF BROODER HOUSE SHOWING CANVAS SHELTER IN SOUTH FRONT AND WINDOW NEAR THE PEAK OF THE BROODING SECTION OF THE HOUSE be so constructed and ventilated that its variations shall be restricted between fifty and seventy degrees. In such a room with machines well adjusted, all other conditions being about right, incubation will become a mathematical certainty. How are we to keep the room down to seventy degrees and at the same time constantly change the air? That is the pro- blem. There is only one way by which circulation of the air is carried out by the natural forces set in play by temperature changes without mechanical adjuncts of any sort, and that is, to apply artificial heat to the exhaust flue. Increase the tem- perature of the exhaust flue to ninety degrees and we have a working gravity margin of twenty degrees. In our plan this is accomplished without cost and without labor. We construct the exhaust flue of metal and lead into, and carry up inside of it, the smoke stack of the brooder house heater, and so utilize heat that is usually wasted. During the first hatch of the season the heater will not be working. That, however, will be early in the season when the external atmos- phere is low enough. The end of the hatching season is the time when this is needed, and then the brooder will be running full blast, and the air in that exhaust flue will have a velocity equal to the smoke inside of it. By reference to the plan of the incubator room, shown in the ground plan, the fresh air duct will be seen at the north end of the room, and the exhaust flue is over the doorway at the opposite end. were taken direct from the incubator and put under hot water pipes, without fringed hovers, in boods of fifty. Those chicks reached the age of two months—long past the ‘‘mortality”’ period—and there was never a sick chick among them, much less a dead one. That, however, is an expensive plant, built for a perpetual output of broilers. Ordinarily the pipe system is a little risky for baby chicks during the first few days. A cheap heater naturally burns low during the night and the tem- perature in the brooders necessarily drops just enough to chill the youngsters, but not enough to be felt by them after they are a week old. The brooder house we illustrate is intended only for breed- ing stock, to be used from about the middle of March. When chicks are not required earlier than the middle of March un- doubtedly outdoor brooders produce the hardiest stock; that is to say, those that survive all the hardships and perils that chicken life is heir to are perfect specimens of hardiness. We want the hardiness of the outdoor brooder chick, but we do not want the accidental losses, and we do not want the trouble. We, therefore, planned our brooder house with this end in view, and we have so far demonstrated that we are on the right side. We have run a flock of sixty-six chicks and never had a day’s sickness. Two came to a violent death by cats or rats, while all the others are perfect specimens of what six months’ chickens should be, and the pullets have. been laying for a month past. 125 SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEPING To prevent possible disappointment to beginners, we must explain that such results are possible only when all the conditions of chickenhood are favorable. First the eggs must be from stock of sound hereditary constitution; stock must be grown on free range, and mated and housed for strong fertility. The eggs must be incubated under natural conditions. That is to say, in a machine constantly supplied with fresh, pure air, and supplied correctly, so that it does not dry up the life’s blood of the embryo, and then vainly seek to correct the matter by pour- ing in water. We have operated most of the standard incuba- tors in Europe and America, and we never were able to grow a large percentage of chicks until we secured the ‘no-moisture machines.”’ All these conditions have a direct influence upon the vitality of the chick, and we want to impress upon the be- ginners that it is only when all the conditions are about correct that we are immune from disease and death. Where our brooder house differs materially from others is that we depend entirely upon the internal heat of the brooders— of course, for winter brooding this would not do. It is a cheap. “PROGRESSIVE BROODING” FROM SIX DAYS TO SIX WEEKS Method is the great labor-saver in all things, more especi- ally in the care of chickens. We believe in a methodical arrange- ment of the brooder house, so that the chicks shall have as nearly as possible, the exact temperature suitable to their res- pective ages, the space most suited for them, and so forth. This cannot be done when the pens are all alike. Every think- ing man knows that what are suitable accommodations for newly hatched chicks, cannot be adequate for fifty six-weeks chicks, and if the pen is large enough for the bigger chicks there must be a great waste of room for the smaller ones. This is one important fact poultrymen have ignored and continue to ignore. It is, however, well for beginners to look this straight in the face. We have to “‘fit the accommodation to the growth of the chicks” —if we do not another potent factor will step in and promptly “fit the chicks to the accommodation.” When the incubator room and brooder house are apart chicks are often chilled at the start by exposure to the cold air while passing from one build- A GASOLINE COLONY BROODER AND CHICKS single boarded building (Fig. 2), wind-tight on the north, water- tight, open on the south, and fitted with canvas shutters to be used in bad weather to keep out snow and rain. The partition between the brooder pen and the sheds is of matched boards, with a door of similar boards, about two feet wide, leading into each shed. Over this partition, between the two roofs, are con- tinuous glass sash, hinged at the top, to open outwards, where they are held by iron stays. If desired, a “‘green-house gear’’ ould be used, by which all the sash would open or close simul- taneously. These sash clap onto the outside of the upright scantlings, and the roofing material is turned up at the bottom inside of the sash, so the question of keeping the wet out is ex- tremely simple. When the sash are all open they fit almost close together, like one long sash, and will turn the rain and keep the building dry whether open or closed. Our chicks have the warmth and comfort of the old hen when in the brooder, and the freshness and purity of outdoor air whether in or out of the brooder. We know by experience that contact with fresh air quickens the circulation, invites to exer- cise, sharpens the appetite and promotes health. ing to the other. Such a chill usually upsets the bowels and the chicks are quickly pasted up in the rear and never get afair’ °° ° chance. We avoid the possibility of such a chill by having our buildings connect. While the pipe system is a great labor saver, it is, we think, a little too variable for the small chicks. We therefore start off with six separate indoor brooders for the little chicks for the first six days of their life. During the first day the chicks are limited to a space of three by four feet. The second day jthey are permitted to run out to a cross board, giving them two feet of the cool shed; this board is extended each day until they have the whole of the eight-foot shed. These chicks have no mother to guide their baby steps. We must therefore prevent them straying too far from the warm brooder until we findthey know their way back. The vitality of a flock is often destroyed at this point by allowing them to stay out in the cold too long. Theoretically we start with a temperature of ninety-five degrees and gradually reduce, until at the end of six weeks we have dropped to seventy degrees. We say “theoretically” be- cause a few degrees either way does not matter. For the first 126 INCUBATION AND BROODING day or two we do not like to fall below ninety degrees, and we do not like at any time to exceed ninety five degrees. On the seventh day the chicks are passed on to the pipe system, the first pen of which is three feet six inches wide. Day by day they are passed forward, each pen increasing one inch in width, giving the six-weeks chicks a space of six feet six inches—more than double the space they started with. Six days after the first hatch another hatch will be ready and the newly hatched chicks will be put into the lamp brooders, and so the house is kept running just as long as required. ot Rear Haut LONGITUDINAL SECTION THROUGH CENTER LINEOF Posts FIG. 1-GROUND PLAN AND SECTIONAL VIEW OF HAMMONTON BROODING HOUSE HAMMONTON HOT-WATER PIPE SYSTEM BROODING HOUSE __ The accompanying brooder house plans (Figs. 1 and 2), show the style of house in use at Hammonton, N. J., and else- where. In this style of house the hot-water piping system is used, and instead of decreasing the number of chickens in each ‘pen as they increase in size, the size of the pen is increased. ji The brooder, as may be seen in Fig. 2, consists of boards nailed together with cleats, which rest on four hot-water pipes. In the brooder house at Hammonton strips of carpet are sus- The pipes should be three inches from the floor for the pended from each side of the “brooder,” and also between the pipes, nailed to the under side, with the fringed edges of carpet (double or single), just high enough so the chick can feel it on its back, and here is where they like to hover. +++ It will be observed that the pens grow larger towards the end away from the heater. The first young chicks are placed in pens A to G, to be followed by the next new hatch, and these earlier chicks are removed to larger pens. This shifting from pen to pen goes on until the house is full. The chicks that have progressed by successive stages to pens K, L and M are fit for broilers, and are marketed as fast as they are ready. The chicks have grown and need the largerjpens to accommodate them. a R fe 8 ‘y#) 7 Ze . eh e s Sk ee A oa IN jo = s Tl kee 3 9?-- os s/ | Wore Mething, aA 2 8 F | Bow’ Partition, Sepa - Stl voool f Yi WM WY WY Y = _ a A Boy 4 a wn ete ee ee ee Pre ee nee oe Ges eee ee eee, (A FIG. 2-HAMMONTON BROODING HOUSE smallest chicks, and from five to seven inches from the floor for the largest, having a uniformly upward slant from pen A to pen M. The brooder tops are twenty inches wide, and should be tined with paper on the under side. They are movable, each trooder top extending the width of the pens only. It is custo- mary,to enclose a room of suitable size at the entrance of the brooder house, where the incubators are kept. The chicks can thus be transferred to the brooder without inconvenience. These pipes are fed with hot water from a stove or furnace located in an excavation at the A end of Fig. 1. The hot water circulates to and fro through a coil of pipes. The brick foun- dations are a protection against rats, mink, etc. 104 CHAPTER EIGHT SUCCESSFUL CHICK GROWING THE CARE OF GROWING CHICKS NECESSITY OF PROPER WEANING OF NATURAL AND ARTIFICIALLY RAISED CHICKS—HOUSING AND FEEDING SUGGESTIONS—IMPORTANCE OF SUNSHINE AND FRESH AIR—ANOTHER SYMPOSIUM EANING time is a critical period in the life o. small chicks, particularly those which are grown by artificial means. It is at this time and in the failure to properly lead up to it that many beginners make fatal mistakes in care and management. : When brooder chicks are from six to eight weeks old depending on the season, the weather, and the develop- ment of the chicks, they should be ready to leave the brooder for colony coops, except in the case of midwinter chickens which of necessity must be kept in buildings warmed by artificial heat. Unless chickens are properly handled at weaning time there is liable to be a cessation of growth which means loss of time and may mean that the chick will fail to develop properly. Stunted imperfect chicks and even increased mortality may result from errors at this time. If intended for breeders or profitable market stock, chicks must be kept growing all the time from the start, and there must be no setbacks like “standing still’ with no ap- parent gain or temporary stops in growth. With a healthy normal chick you should be able to almost see it grow, so con- tinuous and rapid is the development. WEANING HEN-REARED CHICKS The weaning of hen-reared chicks is a comparatively simple matter. Usually when the little birds are from a month to six weeks old the hen mother has already given evidence of her desire to leave them, and has been laying for some little time. As arule it is best to let the chicks occupy the hrood coop or house which they have become familiar with, and the hen mother may be returned to the laying pens. Keep a plentiful supply of dry grain food, grit, charcoal and pure water always before them, see that they are safely shut up at night so that they can- not be injured by prowling vermin, give them liberal range, shelters for protection from sunshine and from stormy weather, and they will usually thrive and prosper. If they grow too large for their small houses, remove them to a colony coop and there- after handle in the same manner as you would brooder chicks. GRADUALLY HARDEN THE CHICKS Lead up to weaning naturally and gradually. Let the change be a constant and almost imperceptible one from the start and there will be no trouble at weaning time. Begin, when the chicks are a few days old, to air out the hover chamber at frequent intervals and expose the under side of the hover to direct sunlight. Reduce the heat under the hover very gradu- ally, but keep it warm enough to make the chicks comfortable. When operating a brooder in cold weather, keep the hover space warm enough so the chicks can warm up quickly. If you do this and care for the chicks properly, you will seldom find them under the hover in the day time. They run in out of the cold to warm up a bit and then run out again to scratch in the litter or play with their mates. Like all young things, healthy chick are playful and get a liberal amount of exercise in this manner. If you doubt this, watch a flock of brooder chicks running with a bit of wood or other non-edible substance, watch them jump about and flap their tiny wings, and race in and out of the brooder in the sheer joy of a happy existence. If you keep your eyes open you will cease to be a “doubting Thomas” and find small chicks quite as playful as young kittens or other frisky young creatures. OUTDOOR RUN NECESSARY Provide an outdoor run early, it will do them good even in winter to have a run outside on every fair day for a little while when the sun shines. On days when it is stormy, keep the chicks indoors, but supply an abundance of fresh air by opening the house windows and by keeping the brooder vents open. Never wholly close the ventilators of your brooders. Close, dead air will kill more chicks than any other one cause. Fresh air is a life giver and a life saver, don’t forget this. On windy or stormy days it may be necessary to close the vent on the windward side, but keep the opposite or lee side vent open. Whatever you do, air out the whole brooder daily, if only for a few minutes. Don’t use a brooder which has a fixed or immov- able hover. Sunlight under the hover kills germs and prevents sickness. The only way to get sunlight under the hover is to remove the hover board or metal and expose its under side and the inner side of the felts to sunshine and fresh air. If this is done every time the chicks are fed it will benefit the chicks and there will be no danger of chilling them. IMPORTANCE OF SUNSHINE AND FRESH AIR As long ago as in 1889 the Rhode Island State Agricultural Experiment Station issued the statement in its Bulletin No. 61 on the “Mortality of Brooder Chicks,” that: “Sunlight is the best and cheapest germicide for the tubercle bacillus. We found that the ‘simple expedient of removing the hovers and setting them out of doors in the full sun all day reduced the evidence of tuberculosis in the post-mortem examinations from nearly 50 per cent to only 3 per cent.” If fresh air and sunlight will work this wonderful change in a fatal malady like tubercular disease, it certainly can be counted on to prevent diseases of a less malignant nature. When brooding in cold weather we cannot always keep the hovers out all day. We can remove them for a little sunning and airing while feeding the chicks several times a day, and gradually work up to keeping them out all day as the chicks become gradually hardened, older, stronger and better able to do without artificial heat. What ever else you may neglect, do not fail to supply 128 SUCCESSFUL CHICK GROWING Nature’s best tonic and disease preventives, fresh air and sun- light (when it is available), in all parts of the brooder. We firmly believe that dry feeding is the most satisfactory and most successful method of feeding brooder chicks. Dry grain chick food of good quality, should be kept always before the birds. The brooders should be well littered with cut clover or chaff and some fine sand. Use sand and chaff half an inch deep on the floor beneath the hover. Keep pure beef scraps, good quality, green-cured, dry cut clover or alfalfa; granulated charcoal; chick-size grit and pure fresh water (with the chill off in cold weather) always. before the chicks. They will not over- eat, and fed in this manner there is no danger of their going without food when they need it. In addition to this, chick food should also be scattered in the litter. Fresh green food like grain sprouts, lettuce, split beets, or apples should be supplied fre- quently. Give them a grass run as soon as possible after they are a week or ten days old, and in any case provide an outdoor half the height; the balance of the front should be wire netting and provided with a framed hood on which is stretched water- proof muslin or close-woven burlap. This hood should he hinged at the top to swing outward and held in position by wooden ratchets. The hood when closed should cover the whole wire front. Provide a large.door in the center of the front and in the bottom of this make a small opening, for a chick door, provided with a slide to close it. The floor of this coop should be wood, kept off the ground by one inch cleats. In such a colony coop the checks may be safely kept from weaning time until well grown and ready for the larger houses. After the chicks have become accustomed to doing without artificial heat, place one of these portable colony houses in a sheltered position, preferably in an orchard beneath a good sized tree, and move the chicks to it in the morning of a pleasant day. Place a small wire enclosed run about 6 by 10 feet in front of the house and keep the chicks confined for a few days until WHITE WYANDOTTES IN THE SHADE run, giving them a chance to use it during the sunny part of every fair day. i. tole Cared for in this manner the chicks will grow sturdy and thrive like hardy weeds; they will be always plump and in good condition. WEANING TIME Gradually reduce the temperature in the brooder unil 75 to 65 degrees is reached; then on mild nights accustom the chicks to going without artificial heat until they are able to do without the lamp altogether. When the chicks are from six to eight weeks old they should be well feathered and well grown. At this time if they have been hardened properly, and gradu- ally used to doing without artificial heat, they are ready to be transferred to the colony coops. These should be shed roofed box coops of about 3 by 6 feet floor capacity; 3 feet high in front and 2 feet high in the rear; the roof should be removable. The front should be boarded up at the bottom for a little more than they become used to their home. Hed the floor of the house with a little sand and an inch or more of chaff, cut straw or similar litter. Run this house with the cloth hood closed at night at first; as the chicks grow and the weather becomes warm- er the hood may be left up on mild nights and finally kept open all the time. Do not put more than 50 chicks in one flock at weaning time, and when they are ten or twelve weeks old. thin the flocks down to 25 in a colony coop. FEEDING GROWING CHICKS When the brooder chicks are four weeks old begin feeding a little whole wheat and cracked corn for variety, in addition to the chick food. Gradually’ reduce the amount of chick food and increase the quantity of wheat and cracked corn. Hulled oats may also be fed if obtainable at a low figure, also kaffir corn, large millet, broom-corn or other small hard grains. If 129 . SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEPING possible give the chicks a grass run, if not, keep them well supplied with fresh green food, like lawn clippings, clover, green cut rye, beets, turnips, etc. : If the birds are to be marketed, feed cracked corn and beef scrap, keeping it constantly before them. In addition, keep in one compartment of the food hopper, the following dry ground grain mixture: Yellow corn, 50 pounds; heavy oats, 15 pounds; hard red wheat, 15 pounds; sound barley, 15 pounds; all ground together to flour fineness. Add to this 5 pounds of pure mealed clover or alfalfa and thoroughly mix. Feed dry from a food hopper. Keep market birds confined in moderate sized runs Do not let them range. If the chicks are to become breeders or layers, keep the beef scrap and the above meal mixture always before them, but allow free or liberal range. Supply a grass range if you can, but in any case allow plenty of fresh green food. Three times a day give a liberal feeding of mixed hard grains in about the following proportions: 40 pounds sifted cracked corn; 30 pounds hard red wheat; 20 pounds heavy oats; 10 pounds barley; 40 pounds cracked corn; 40 pounds clean wheat screenings; 10 pounds oats (hulled preferred); 10 pounds barley. Grit, charcoal and pure water should of course be kept always before the birds. KEEP QUARTERS CLEAN Keep the chicks’ quarters clean; if they are confined to small runs remove to new runs often, always plowing up and disinfecting the old ground from which the chicks were moved. Air-slaked lime (if thoroughly slaked) will answer for disinfec- tion if a good top dressing of it is given before plowing under. It will be well to plant these old runs to rye or oats to sweeten the soil and afford green food for fresh crops of chicks. The colony houses should be cleaned at least once a week and kept clean, renewing the sand and litter often. In these houses use a creolin disinfectant or a good lice paint at frequent intervals. Take the roofs off and sun and air the coops often. A little hot whitewash applied to the interior in the early morn- ing of a bright sunny day, and a thorough drying out after- ward, is an excellent means of sweetening the coops. Don’t let the chicks get lousy. If lice appear use a lice paint on the woodwork and a good lice powder on the birds. When the chicks are a little more than half grown put roosts into the coops for them. If they are healthy, well-fed and well-nourished you need not fear crooked breast bones. Provide shade and shelter for the birds to run to in hot or stormy weather, but don’t neglect to make the proper use of Nature’s best remedies, sunshine and fresh air In closing this chapter we present our final symposium of the experience of successful poultrymen. The following ques- tions were asked of a large number of prominent breeders who are known to be men of experience and who have attained suc- cess in poultry keeping: Q. 33. How many head of growing stock do you house and yard together? Q@. 34. At what age do you separate the sexes? % Q@. 35. Do you find it advisable, later on, to separate the cockerels? Q. 36. If so, what method do you follow? Q. 37. What do you feed growing stock? Q. 38. How do you feed growing stock, also how often? As in previous symposiums we have numbered these ques- tions and the answers, which follow beneath the name of each breeder from whom replies were received, each bear a number which corresponds with the question asked.- W. R. GRAVES, Springfield, Mass. WHITE WYANDOTTES A. 33. From 25 to 50 according to size of place. A, 34. When they are easily distinguished. A. 35. Yes, I do for show birds. A. 36. When matured or nearly so have house with large coops, and place one bird in house with run and change birds every day, not allowing them in coop over three days at a time. W. L. DAVIS, WILLOW BROOK FARM, Berlin, Conn. BREEDER OF S. C. BUFF, BLACK AND WHITE ORPINGTONS A. 33. For young stock we house in a yard together at the present time about 40 or 50, and as they grow older we cull this number down to about 25. A. 34. We separate the males from the females at the time we hear the young cockerels commence to crow, in fact, we allow them to remain together as long as conditons are satisfactory and they get along well together. but never wait for them to commence to try to run each other, but take the matter in hand and separate them. A. 35. I think it advisable to separate the cockerels just as soon as they show any sgns of trying to run the yard. A. 87. Our growing stock is always fed enough, but we always try not to overfeed. We keep ground beef scraps in front of our growing stock all the time. They never can eat too much of this. A. 38. The greatest success in the poultry business is to be obtained by prompt, regular feeding, and also giving them plenty of good fresh water. I think one of the finest foods in the market today is stale bread that has been dried out so that it will keep an indefinite time.. Take this bread and soak the same in a pail of water for an hour, then put it into a small cider press, and squeeze out all the water, and you have feed as good as anything that I know of. If your baker will give you the wheat and graham bread mixed together you have something then that the chickens will like and do well upon. Buy good beef scraps, and keep it before your chickens all the time. They know how much to eat, I find, without telling them. If you do not believe this, come to our farm and we will show you the results. WILBER BROS., Petros, Tennessee S. C. WHITE LEGHORN SPECIALISTS A. 33. Twenty-five to 50 according to size, but never any more. A. 34, As soon as the cockerels begin paying attention to pullets, from two to three months of age. A. 35. We do, as the older cockerels will run over and worry the younger ones and they will not mature into as good specimens. Birds of about the same age can be reared together but different aged cockerels, also pullets, should be separately yarded. A. 36. Again, if when we note some cockerels or pullets at the age of nearing maturity showing up to be very fine we separate them, allowing only two to five in yard. A, 37. After birds reach ten weeks they are colonized in lots of 25 to 50 and fed a variety of grain, vegetables twice a weck finely cut up, often boiled and seasoned, ground beef scraps twice weekly, cabbage, sun-flower seed. butter milk once a week, the variety being our object in view to give birds growth in bone and flesh. ; 130 SUCCESSFUL CHICK GROWING A. 38. After birds are ten weeks old and colonized on free range with abundance of shade, sunlight, grit, shell and water, their three meals are mixed grains well sown broadcast in litter and grass, morning, noon and a full feed at night, the latter being given them about four o’clock. They will putina good time before roost time and their morning feed meets them when coming from night quarters. J. H. DOANE, Gouverneur, N. Y. PRFEDER OF S. C. BLACK MINORCAS AND WHITE WYANDOTTES A. 33. For me, as a fancier, 50 is enough. A market poultryman could put 100 together with good results, if well removed from neighboring colonies. A. 34, . Just as soon as the cockerels become troublesome. A. 35. Yes, separate all that do not come up to a high standard as soon as possible and give the better ones a chance to develop finer. A, 36. At this time, I separate the culls for the ax and retain only such as bid fair to develop good ones. Cull closely should be the watchword of the fancier, and better quality is attained in this way only. A. 37. Whole grain exclusively with plenty of cracked or whole corn. A, 38. Scattered in the grass three times daily. J. W. PARKS, Altoona, Pa. BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCK SPECIALIST A. 34. When the cockerels get to nagging the pullets. A. 35. We very seldom have much trouble with cock- erels until winter comes when they must be kept in the houses, and even then they get along among themselves all right until a nice day comes and we have to let them out, and then the ones from different pens sometimes get to mixing things up a little. A. 36. We generally take day about leaving them out, and in some cases we just run a little temporary fence around each coop, leaving the door on the outside. It isn’t that they find things to eat that we like to leave them out when it is a nice day; it is because we like to see them outside where they can stretch themselves, as we like to do ourselves after being shut in a while. A. 37. We feed our young growing stock on range all the oats they will eat for breakfast, a little wheat or cracked corn for dinner, and for supper all the corn they will eat up clean. We keep a hopper of dry mash where they can help themselves. We also allow them beef scraps at all times. A. 38. We feed our growing stock in front of their coops in nice weather, and on bad days throw it in the coop in the litter. As we move our coops at least every two weeks and sometimes every week we have a clean place to feed them, and they do not tramp out the grass in front of coops. We feed our growing stock three times a day, and they always have access to the dry mash in hoppers. While there are plenty of insects in the summer for the growing chicks I very seldom feed any beef scraps, and when I do feed them scraps I generally make it about one-half wheat bran and place that in hoppers before them. For my part I do not care for the young stock to get all the scraps that they would eat, as it brings them to maturity too soon. We hear too much nowdays in favor of early maturity. It can be done and in some cases is all right, but it would not be the thing for a breeder like myself to follow, as I know a little about it from experience. I would much sooner have the pullet for a breeder that did not commence to lay until she was six and one-half or seven months old than the one that commenced to lay at five months. I have had them lay at five months old, and that is something out of the ordi- nary for the Barred Rocks, but it was at a sacrifice of size and vitality. You take a pullet that is allowed to get her size, that is, fill out and get matured before she commences to lay, and when she gets down to it she is going to make the eggs come, as she has the constitution and strength back of it, and at the end of two years she will be ahead of her sister that commenced to lay six weeks earlier, and she will lay better sized eggs. There may be exceptions in this case, and I do not want to be consid- ered one that is trying to stop the wheels of progress, but am opposed to anything that is detrimental to our favorite and profitable breed, the Barred Plymouth Rocks. BRADLEY BROS., Lee, Mass. BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCK SPECIALISTS A, 33. Fifty to 100 according to convenience and range, etc. A. 34. At about five months old. A. 35. Too much trouble and don’t do as well as a rule. If particularly fine show birds, we separate them in pens for the purpose and give a hen or two perhaps. A. 87. Same as I feed little chicks. They get all the beef scraps and cracked corn they will eat, for they have farm range. Mixed grains also; corn one part, cracked corn two parts, wheat two parts, barley one part, buckwheat and shells. A. 38. Twice a day, or as for fowls. Mash usually at noon what they will eat up clean. C. H. WELLES, Stratford, Conn. BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCK SPECIALIST A. 83. This depends upon size of house. I don’t like to have over 25, but most always do as I like about this number. 34. When I put them in for the winter. 35. I do not as a rule, except on my best specimens. 36. What I cannot accommodate in small runs I coop. 37. Same as I feed little chicks. 38. I keep it by them all the time in dry food hoppers. PRR ry FRANK McGRANN, Lancaster, Pa. BREEDER OF SINGLE-COMB BLACK MINORCAS, BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCKS, WHITE WYANDOTTES AND SINGLE-COMB WHITE LEGHORNS A. 33. Not more than 50 in a flock. A. 384. Just as soon as I am able to distinguish the cock- erels from the pullets. A. 35. Not unless I take out the best of them and fit them for exhibition purposes. A. 386. Give the cockerels which I have selected for exhibition purposes plenty of house room and free range if possible, also feed them specially. A. 37. Just the same as breeding stock, only I feed them a mash food three times a week. A. 38. Scatter the grain food on the grass in the yards, and feed the mash in a low trough. I feed three times a day. W. D. HOLTERMAN, Ft. Wayne, Ind. BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCK SPECIALIST A. 37. Growing stock get much oats and meat scraps in addition to the other grain foods. I prefer hulled or clipped oats. The young cockerels are watched carefully with regard 131 SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEPING to meat scraps, as these are liable to make their combs large and beefy. The best thing these birds get is the range of the farm. Charcoal is left before them all the time. A. 38. Growing stock also receive only dry food. I find a feed of three times a day is sufficient. Will try hopper feed- ing for these. They have fresh pure water always, H. E. BENEDICT, Horseheads, N. Y. BUFF PLYMOUTH ROCK SPECIALIST A. 83. If yarded, 25 to 50 according to size of yard. If free range, let them run in larger flocks, the pullets and cock- erels separate. ; A. 34. As soon as they begin to worry the pullets. A. 35. Not as a general thing until I put them in winter quarters. If they get to fighting put an old cock with them. A. 36. According to my circumstances and the condi- tion of things I may have to take out some of the smaller ones and give them a better chance. If any of them get too lordly, take them out. Kill off the culls as soon as you can. A, 37. All kinds of dry grain. A. 38. Scatter it on the ground (except cracked corn, feed that in a trough), if weather is dry; if wet, feed inside in litter. After two months three times a day will do. A. B. TODD, Vermillion, Ohio S. C. WHITE LEGHORN SPECIALIST A. 33. From 40 to 60, A. 34. About six to eight weeks, or as soon as they can be distinguished. A. 35. Yes. / A. 36. Pick out those having perfect combs, good shape, style, etc., and have the others fattened for market. A TYPE OF OUTDOOR BROODER WITHOUT RUNWAY OR CONFINING PEN A. 387. Cracked grains same as fed growing chicks, also a dry mash, hopper fed, with beef scraps and plenty of fresh water and grit before them at all times. A. 38. I hopper feed all of my growing stock, being care- ful to see that hoppers are kept filled at all times EDW. KNAPP, OF KNAPP BROS., Fabius, N. Y. S. C. WHITE LEGHORN SPECIALIST A; 33. One hundred to 150. _ A. 34. We do not think it necessary to separate the sexes until the cockerels show their masculinity. A. 35. We do; as they develop, we place the best ones by themselves. A. 36. We watch best birds and if necessary take out the unruly ones. A. 37. Our growing stock thrive well on same ration fed three times a day as we feed adult stock, just what they will pick up clean in a short time. H. J. BLANCHARD, Groton, N. Y. S. C. WHITE LEGHORN SPECIALIST A, 33. One hundred to 150, according to location, size of house, age of chicks and amount and character of range. I do not approve of yarding young stock when of suitable age to run at liberty. A. 384. At about four months old. A. 35. Ido not. A. 37. Wheat and cracked corn, two parts wheat and one part corn for whole grain, and a dry mash once a day com- posed of corn meal, wheat bran and alfalfa meal with about ten per cent high grade beef scrap, thoroughly mixed. A. 38. Whole grains are fed scattered widely on the ground twice a day and the dry mash fed in shallow troughs once a day, usually in the morning. A. & E. TARBOX, Yorkville, Il. SILVER LACED WYANDOTTE SPECIALISTS A. 83. We house about 50 as a general rule and give free range. A. 34. At five or six months. byt think it would be better at three or four months. A. 35. Yes. A. 37. Coarse grains (balanced ration). Beef scraps. A, 38, We feed the grain foods in litter; feed three times a day. F. W. RICHARDSON, Hicksville, Ohio BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCKS A. 33. Fifty head is the limit. A. 34. Four months old. A. 35, I separate a few show specimens later. found it necessary to separate breeding cockerels. A, 87. Feed soft food once a day mostly for morning feed, composed of corn, oats, barley, equal parts, and soaked oats at noon; whole corn at night. A. 38. Wheat in morning, oats at noon, corn at night Never CHAS. E VASS, Washington, N. J. BREEDER OF SINGLE AND ROSE-COMB BUEF ORPINGTONS AND SINGLE- COMB WHITE AND BLACK ORPINGTONS A. 33. It’s not profitable to allow over 50 or 60 head tc roam together. 132 SUCCESSFUL CHICK GROWING A. 34. Just as soon as the males interfere with the females. A. -35. Not if they house peaceably. A. '37. Cracked corn, wheat, barley and beef scraps. A. C. HAWKINS, Lancaster, Mass. *BREEDER OF WHITE, BUFF AND BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCKS, SILVER, BUFF AND WHITE WYANDOTTES A. 33. I have about 40 in each colony coop and give all unlimited range. A. 34, At five to six months. A. 35. I run cockerels in flocks of 50 to 75 with good success. Exhibition specimens should be kept each in a separate pen. A. 37. A mash for first morning feed and a mixed grain always before them. Free range. The mixture is cracked corn, wheat and oats, charcoal and coarse sand or grit always before them. aA. 38. The mash in long troughs, giving plenty of room without crowding. The mixed grain in hoppers protected from rain. J. C. FISHEL & SON, Hope, Ind. WHITE WYANDOTTE SPECIALISTS 33. About 40 or 50. 34. When about four months old. 35. Yes, about five months old. 37. Soaked food such as oats, wheat and a little ace corn, but mostly oats and wheat. A. 38. Hopper feed them with meat scraps added. phe U. R. FISHEL, Hope, Ind: WHITE PLYMOUTH ROCK SPECIALIST A. 33. We do not yard growing stock; give them free range. A. 34. Nine months. A. 35. No. A. 38. Make them work for all the food except mash. Feed twice a day. THOMAS F. RIGG, Iowa Falls, Iowa HOUDANS AND WHITE WYANDOTTES A. 33. About 25. Each colony house has yard 132 by 182 feet in clover and fruit trees. A. 34. Not until cockerels begin to get troublesome. A. 35.. Yes. ; A. 36. Cockerels for'sale as breeders and exhibition stock are placed in a grass run removed from the other stock. In the fall they are placed in the cockerel house, each one having a pen 3 by 6 feet. A. 87. Same as I feed chicks. A. 38. The mixture of grains as for chicks, kept con- stantly before stock in self-feeding hoppers. Mash fed at noon daily. W. R. CURTISS & CO., Ransomville, N. Y. BREEDERS OF WHITE WYANDOTTES, SINGLE-COMB WHITE LEGHORNS AND MAMMOTH PEKIN DUCKS A. 33. Put 75 to 100 together; take out cockerels and leave the pullets. A, 34. As soon as they are fit to sell for broilers or to crate-fatten. A. 35. Keep pullets and cockerels separate if possible. A. 36. Cockerels which we keep to breed we house in colony houses on as large a range as possible. A. 37. Grain three times a day, mash once a day. Al- ternate wheat, corn and oats. J. H. JACKSON, Hudson, Mass. WHITE WYANDOTTE SPECIALIST A. 383. Young stock have free range, do not crowd. Feed plenty and often. A. 34. Not until cockerels get sexual vigor. When raised for breeders like to give them free range for growth. Culls penned up and go to market as soon as possible. W. B. CANDEE, De Witt, N. Y. WHITE WYANDOTTE SPECIALIST A. 33. Generally put out about 75 chicks about six weeks old in the 6 by 6 colony house. A small yard of netting is put around each house for a week, houses 5 or 6 rods apart, then this is taken away and as many as 800 or 1000 run on same range. A. 34. When about twelve to fourteen weeks old. A. 35. I have four pens in separate cockerel house and the cockerels are divided in those pens according to size as they are separated from the range, being careful about this to prevent as far as possible their fighting. If one shows fear in the pen he is put in a separate coop or with females for a short time to get him on his feet again. A. 37. In colony houses put dish of grit and charcoal, also a hopper containing dry mash and another containing a mixture of cracked corn and wheat; about three parts corn to two parts wheat. Fill these every morning, and aim to have just a little left in them the following morning. Clean earth- enware water founts put in as cool a place as possible and large enough so they also will have some left on next morning. ROWLAND G. BUFFINTON, Somerset, Mass. BREEDER OF BUFF, SILVER PENCILED AND COLUMBIAN WYANDOTTES; BUFF AND PARTRIDGE PLYMOUTH ROCKS; BUFF ORPING- TONS; RHODE ISLAND REDS; BUFF, BLACK, WHITE AND PARTRIDGE COCHIN BANTAMS A. 33. From 40 to 60. A. 34. We let them run together until October when the pullets are put in the breeding yards. A. 35. Yes, we put about 20 in one flock as near one age as possible. We never put small males with large ones, they continue small. A. 37. Dry mash same as we give the hens and cracked corn at noon. 133 SUCCESSFUL POULTRY’ KEEPING ALBERT F. DIKEMAN, So. Peabody, Mass. BREEDER OF WHITE WYANDOTTES AND WHITE PLYMOUTH ROCKS A. 33. Depends entirely on size of yard,—at least 50 square feet to each bird. Not over 100 birds in any one flock. A. 34. From eight to twelve weeks according to actions of cockerels. A. 35. Yes, for show purposes, as some are sure to haze the others and this retards growth and breaks flight and tail feathers. A. 36. Pen the troublesome ones separately, watch them closely; if they appear lonesome and do not eat readily, give them three or four old hens that are, later, intended for market. _A. 37. We use self-feeding hoppers containing a hard grain mixture of 50 per cent white wheat, 25 per cent cracked corn, and 25 per cent hulled oats. Grit, charcoal good beef scraps and fresh clean water. All these available for the stock at all times. A. 38. Same as 37. G. W. BROWN, Camden, Arkansas WHITE WYANDOTTES, BARRED ROCKS, INDIAN GAMES, BUFF COCHINS, LIGHT BRAHMAS, LEGHORNS, PIT GAMES, WILD AND BRONZE TURKEYS A. 33. Our breeding pens are 50 by 100 feet and houses 6 by 8 feet and to each breeding house and yard we run ten females and a male. In our colony houses, we have them 10 by 18 feet, there are 100 birds in each. A. 34. At six to eight months old we separate all males and females, the males running in large fields to themselves and the females the same. A. 35. We find it best to let the cockerels run together just as long as possible. but often have to put up, (special birds causing trouble) exhibition pens and yards for keeping all such, and for preparing for the shows. A. 36. All birds causing trouble, as explained above, are cooped alone in special coops for this purpose. A. 37. For growing stock, we use vegetables well cooked and seasoned, mixed with a good warm mash of shorts, bran and oats, with plenty of cooked meat or green bone. A. 38. We feed three to four times daily. B. $8. HUME, French Village, Il. WHITE WYANDOTTE SPECIALIST 33. Not over 30 or 40. 34. At six months old. 35. Not if they get along quietly. 36. I farm them out when I can. 37. Mostly soaked oats and wheat, some little corn. Oats give them bone and muscle and make young stock thrifty. PRR N. V. FOGG, Mt. Sterling, Ky. BREEDER OF SINGLE COMB WHITE LEGHORNS EXCLUSIVELY A. 33. Cockerels are separated from the pullets as soon as they can be easily picked out. A. 37. My growing stock is fed three times per day with the mash at noon. They are fed a feed of mixed grains in the morning and at night, composed of wheat, oats and cracked corn. At noon their mash is fed and is composed of wheat bran, ground oats, beef scraps, corn meal and wheat middlings. I also feed green stuff unless my birds are on a nice grassy field.’ EDW. E. LING, So. Portland, Me. WHITE WYANDOTTES A. 33. About 20. A, 34. About seven to eight weeks old. A. 35. Sometimes, if there should be birds that did not get their share of the feed. A. 36. Put in a pen with smaller cockerels. GEO. A. BARROWS, Groton, N. Y. S. C. WHITE LEGHORN SPECIALIST A. 33. Each colony. house will hold about 60 chicks. These are not yarded but are given unlimited free range. A. 34. From five to six months. A. 35. Only to remove any weak birds from among the strong ones. A. 37. I feed the growing chicks after four weeks on equal parts cracked corn and wheat and keep grit before them all the time, and this season I have kept beef scraps before part of my chicks all the time with good results. A WHITE WYANDOTTE MOTHER AND CHICKS A, 38. It has been my custom to scatter the grain on the ground three times per day for my growing chicks, but this season I placed food hoppers in three of my colony houses and kept them filled with cracked corn, wheat and beef scraps and the result was such that I think that I shall use that method entirely next season. H. H. FIKE, Libertyville, Ill. WHITE WYANDOTTES A. 33. Not over 100 in one colony with unlimited range (no yard). A. 34. When twelve weeks old. A. 35. Yes. A. 36. About 25 to a lot. A. 387. Same as for little chicks. J. L. JEFFERSON, Des Plaines, IIl. WHITE PLYMOUTH ROCKS A, 33. Whatever is left in each brooder, generally about. 35 are housed together. I use no yards to speak of. A. 34. Between three and four months. 134 SUCCESSFUL CHICK GROWING A. 35. March hatched cockerels should be separated about the first of November and the best placed each alone, that is, if you want to use them for showing, otherwise it would make no difference. ke A. 86. Coop each of the best alone after they are taken in for the winter, or else coop say about three together in a pen, if they seem to agree well. Sometimes they do the best when crowded thick in a pen so they have no chance to fight, and this is the best way to handle late-hatched cockerels. A. 87 and 38. Same as I feed little chicks. D. F. PALMER & SON, Yorkville, Ill. BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCK SPECIALISTS A. 33. We give the growing stock free range. A. 34. We don’t separate until we house them for the winter. A. 35. Yes, if you have plenty of room. A. 34. When about three months old. A. 35. Wedo. A. 36. We separate them in the winter when they get uneasy by distributing among our hens. A, 37. Wheat and cracked corn and oats, and be very sure not to feed any damaged grain. A. 38. Three times per day CHARLES G. PAPE, Fort Wayne, Indiana. S. C. BLACK MINORCA SPECIALIST A. 33. Twenty-five. A. 34. At five or six months, A. 35. It seems that they spread out in better share (more plump). It certainly saves their plumage. FORAGING—CLOSE TO NATURE A. 37. Keep cracked corn and wheat in feeders where they can help themselves all the time, so arranged that the old ones can’t get to it. GUS. L. HAINLINE, Lamar, Missouri WHITE WYANDOTTES A. 33. Not over 50, prefer 30. A. 34. Five months. A. 35. Have not done so. A. 387. Ground bone or meat scraps occasionally; oats and kaffir corn; young stock scattered out over the farm; to illustrate, I counted seventeen head following my corn binder cutting kaffir corn, a quarter mile from their colony house. G. MONROE WOOD, Woodville, N. Y. WHITE LEGHORN SPECIALIST A, 33. About 100 until nearly six weeks old and then we give them free range. WM. H. ROBINSON, La Fayette, Ind. BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCKS AND WHITE WYANDOTTES A, 33. In colony coops from 25 to 100 according to size of coop. Never crowd; a vital point and loss A. 34. At whatever age they bother the other sex; if on large free range can be done quite late. A. 35. Yes, in large grassy yards well cared for. A. 36. Simply in large grass runs, plenty of the best of food and pure water. Good management and good judgment in housing and roosting. A. 87. When reaching more mature age we gradually wean them from the small grain, place them in colony coops, not crowded, and feed cracked corn and wheat from the hopper, with beef* scraps also before them. With this and large free farm or orchard range, young stock is bound to grow and mature early and strong, hardy and vigorous in every respect. A. 38. Fedas above with hoppers constantly before them, they go and come as they choose. There is no crowding and jamming over one another at feeding time. The birds have been allowed to balance their own ration, and go and come from the fields at their own free will, where they may scratch and. 135 SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEPING hunt for bugs and insects among the berry bushes, orchards, etc., to return and take some food from the hopper and quietly go to their roost as nature intends they should. MRS. H. W. HAND, White Hall, II. WHITE WYANDOTTES A. 383. From 25 to 35. A. 34. At about twelve or fifteen weeks of age. ‘A, 35. When they are about five months old I separate them into colonies, each colony as near the same age as possible. A. 37. I feed my growing stock plenty of wheat, corn and oats, morning and night, and at noon steamed oats or a properly ‘balanced mash, with range on a blue-grass field. A. 88. The grain is scattered so that they will have to hunt ‘for it, and the mash fed in troughs. Do not like to feed meat scraps in hoppers to growing stock. they get plethoric and have liver trouble. MRS. CHARLES JONES, Paw Paw, Ill. BREEDER OF BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCKS, BUFF COCHINS, GOLDEN BRONZE TURKEYS 33. About 500. 34. They all have the run of the farm. 35. I separate cockerels when put into winter quarters . 87. Oats and corn, and they have the run of an orchard with all the apples they can eat. A. 38. Twice a day. pa = HARMON BRADSHAW, Lebanon, Ind. 8. C. WHITE LEGHORNS A. 33. Let them run at large after they come from the brooder. . A. 34, At six to eight months. A. 35. Yes. A. 36. Have small pens 3 by 3 feet, 5 feet high, one cock- erel to a pen. A. 87. Same as for breeding stock. A. 38. Same. C.-L. PENCYL, Bloomsburg, Pa. BUFF PLYMOUTH ROCKS A. 34. As soon as the young cockerels begin to crow and bother the pullets. / A. 35. Yes, Ido. I think it better for buff pullets and cockerels to be separated until breeding season. A. 36. Keep them in runs by themselves until I find sale for them. Think they both do better than penning them up in exhibition coops separate, and the cockerels won’t fight if raised up together. A. 37. After they are large enough to eat wheat and cracked corn, etc., I feed them all they will clean up every time, and usually throw it amongst clean litter to keep them on the move all the time, and then let them out for green stuff, bugs, etc. A. 38, I feed mostly all hard food or dry food, and feed three times per day. MRS. TILLA LEACH, Cheneyville, IIl. BREEDER OF BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCKS A. 34. When the cockerels become so troublesome that I am obliged to. A. 35. Yes, advisable but not possible; am limited as to room. A. 87. Wheat, cracked corn, etc., scattered and also in boxes. At night mash like the older fowls. As soon as new corn is ready they have it on the cob. A. 38. A light feed of cooked mash at night; aim to keep plenty of grain by them during the day, also some beef scraps. GEO. H. BIE, Racine, Wis. BREEDER OF BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCKS A. 33. About 30. A. 34, At about three months old. A. 35. Yes, for all cockerels that I want for exhibition _purposes or for fine breeders. A. 36. Ihave a number of small pens, very often I place two cockerels in the same pen, that is, if I find out that they agree together. ROSEDALE POULTRY FARM CoO., Greenwood, Mass. WHITE WYANDOTTES EXCLUSIVELY A. 33. Forty or 50, or less, determined by size and temperament. Free range during fine weather. A. 34. At sixteen weeks. A. 35. Always. Weed out the fighters and place them with birds with whom they agree. A. 36. Mate or match up according to their likes and dislikes. , A. 387. Same as for breeding stock. A. 38. Same as other stock. Four times a day, meals about equally divided. BENJ. H. BAKER, Owensboro, Ky. BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCK SPECIALIST A. 34. Ido not separate them until well near to maturity A. 35. I find it quite advisable later on to separate the males. It often saves a good male from being ruined for show- ing and as a breeder, as they often would lose a great deal of energy from the loss of blood in fighting. A. 36. I coop them in coops about 2} feet by 24 feet, sometimes putting two together if they get along well. I find that they develop better and quicker and less subject to accident than any other method I know of. FRANK D. HAM, Livingstone, N. Y. BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCK SPECIALIST A. 33. Twelve females with one male. A. 34. At five months old. A, 35. Yes. A. 36. Large yards for the cockerels; free range for the pullets. 136 SUCCESSFUL CHICK GROWING A. 37. Corn, wheat and scraps. A. 38. Twice a day morning and night, all they will eat up clean. W.S. HARRIS, Mansfield, Mass. RHODE ISLAND RED SPECIALIST A. 33. At times I have 1500. Have had over 5000, sometimes more. About 15 to each 100 square feet of yard space; all have free grass range. A, 34. Three months of age. A. 35. I prefer to keep them separate until about two or three weeks before breeding. A. 36. I keep them all together until ready to breed. The off-colored or less desirable I market as broilers regardless of price, as I want the room for the pullets. O. E. SKINNER, Columbus, Kansas BREEDER OF BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCKS, BUFF AND PARTRIDGE COCHINS A. 33. Seventy-five in a house 8 by 16 until good frying size, and then after culling, 40 to 50, not exceeding 50. A. 35. Yes, they worry the pullets all the time and do not do as well themselves. i A. 36. We have pens for cockerels entirely away from hens or pullets. They keep much more quiet and do much better. OTTO O. WILD, Benton Harbor, Mich. — WHITE WYANDOTTE SPECIALIST A. 33. Twenty to 30 in piano boxes on unlimited or-. chard range. Fifty in my breeding houses 10 by 18, unlimited range. A. 34. When: ever cockerels show full sexual develop- ment. A. 35. Cockerels are yarded together in flocks of 15 to 20 when taken from general run. They are separated again when any evidence of quarreling starts. The fighters go first. A. 36. I have a house in which coops 3 by 4 feet are ranged along the wall in tiers. Each cockerel gets one of these compartments if worthy of such care. Cheaper birds are yarded with a vigorous cock who keeps them well in hand. A SUCCESSFUL HATCH A. 34. I do not separate at all, as I sell breeding stock. My male birds are nice this way. Of course Ido not get quite so many eggs, but the yards are cleaned up by March. A. 35. If you separate the sexes you will of necessity have to separate the cockerels if you wish to keep their plumage nice, as they pull each other to pieces. A. 36. When I separate the cockerels I have small pens 3 by 5 feet in a large building. A, 37. Same as for adult stock, using fine ground beef meal in mash. A, 38. Mash in troughs. litter. Feed three times daily. Cracked grains in plenty of J. M. WILLIAMS, No. Adams, Mich. SINGLE AND ROSE-COMB BUFF ORPINGTON SPECIALIST A. 83. Twenty-five we find do much better than 50 together. The more we can divide them the better we like it. A. 37. Cracked corn, wheat, barley and hulled or clipped oats, supplemented by mixed and ground grains. Beef scrap or cut bone also. A. 38. Dry grains in hoppers. Ground grains and meat rations in mash at noon. Being on unlimited grass range no other green food is supplied during the growing season. R. H. CRANDALL, Worth, Mich. >. C. AND R. C. WHITE AND BROWN LEGHORNS, WHITE WYANDOTTES, PEKIN DUCKS, TOULOUSE GEESE AND BRONZE TURKEYS A, 33. Place 50 birds in a house and set it on a grass range. A. 34. As soon as the cockerels begin to crow or show signs of breeding. A. 35. We separate the males from the females only in breeding season. females do better not to be annoyed by males. 137 SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEPING W. W.'KULP, Pottstown, Pa. BREEDER OF SINGLE AND ROSE-COMB WHITE AND BROWN LEG- HORNS, WHITE WYANDOTTES, BUFF AND BARRED ROCKS, AND PEKIN DUCKS A. 33. Twenty-five. A. 34, When well grown. I raise Leghorns and they cannot be separated unless they are put in a covered pen and this should not be done until they are grown. | A. 37. Same as the chicks, as they are both growing stock. F. C. SHEPARD, Toledo, Ohio SPECIALTY BREEDER OF BUFF PLYMOUTH ROCKS A. 33. I house from 15 to 30 together. They have the range of five acres. A, 34. At about when the cockerels begin to crow. A. 35. Sometimes late in the season J find it advisable to put the more vigorous ones by themselves A. 36. Place them in small pens built for that purpose. A. 37 and 38. Same as for breeding and adult stock. AUG. D. ARNOLD, Dillsburg, Pa. COLUMBIAN WYANDOTTES EXCLUSIVELY A. 33. From 50 to 150. A. 34, When males begin to get active. A. 35. As soon as they get to fighting I separate them; as long as they agree I keep them in lots of ten to fifteen. A. 36. I have individual coops 3 feet wide and 4 feet long; here they stay until sold or used for breeding A. 37. Coarse cracked corn and wheat mixed with hulled oats every few days. Also twice a week plenty of green bone. A. 38. Expect to try dry hopper feeding the coming season. GARDNER & DUNNING, Auburn, N. Y. BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCK SPECIALIST A. 33. About 25. A. 34. At about four or five months. A, 35. Only the most valuable ones. flocks of 20 or 25 till sold. A. 36. Those intended for exhibition are put in small pens before they are old enough to fight and injure themselves or be injured by other cockerels. A. 37. Cracked corn, wheat and beef scrap. They have free range with clover and insects. Also running water. A, 38. All they will eat up clean three times per day dry. Others run in A. OBERNDORF, Centralia, Kansas BREEDER OF SINGLE-COMB WHITE LEGHORNS ANDIBARRED PLYMOUTH ROCKS A. 33. Not over 30. A. 34, From six to eight weeks"old. A, 35. Yes. A. 36. Sort them and place the smaller ones in separate yards, as some always mature faster than others. A. 37. Mixed rations of corn, wheat, millet, kaffir corn, ground oats, beef scraps, grit and charcoal. A. 38. Scatter the feed on the ground and in troughs, twice daily. E. B. THOMPSON, Amenia, N. Y. BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCK SPECIALIST A. 33. About 30 growing chicks to a house. unlimited range. A, 34, Four to six months. A, 35. Yes. A. 37. Cracked corn and wheat, also a mash every day including ground oats. The ground oats is a great bone making food for growing stock. A. 38. The dry food is fed from hoppers, the mash on boards. : They have WM. BYWATERS, Camden Point, Mo. BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCK SPECIALIST A. 38. Free range mostly for young stock. A. 34. Usually about 5 months or just as they begin to take on their adult plumage. A. 35. Yes, if they are top-notch show birds, but usually quite a number will do well together if no pullets are close by. A. 36. If I have very valuable show birds that I am pre- paring to show or send to customers for that purpose, I scatter them out in my breeding yards. A. 388. On free range they do very well on two feeds daily. : J. C. MACOMBER, Reading, Mass. BREEDER OF PARTRIDGE WYANDOTTES AND BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCKS A. 33. About 75. A. 34. From two to three months. A, 35. Ido. A. 36. If there are a few that grow much faster and are larger than the others, I take them out and put them in with those of their size. If there are a few that are not growing so well as the others, I take them out, and put them with smaller ones or ones of their size, A. 37. As soon as we get them off the mash and they will eat the grain nicely, we give them as explained for chicks, a feed of one part cracked corn, one part hulled oats and one part wheat. Beef scrap is fed in hoppers all they want, also charcoal and grit until they go into the colony houses. A. 38. As they are now on range and in colony houses, we feed them the same grain rations as above, all they will eat twice a day, at sunrise in the morning and about six o’clock at night, or before sunset. Beef scrap is then taken away from them, as being on range they find all the bugs, etc., that are necessary and which takes the place of the beef scrap. We feed them in this manner until October, when we put them in the laying houses. 138 SUCCESSFUL CHICK GROWING F. J. WEHRMEYER, Benton Harbor, Mich. WHITE WYANDOTTE SPECIALIST A. 33. We aim to never keep more than 25 in one yard, and when out in colonies never more than 25. 3 A. 34. At about three months. The reason being that the little cockerels gobble up too much feed and the little pullet chicks get the worst of it. A. 35. Yes, for the same reason as above, also annoy- ing pullets, and cockerels we notice ought to be fed more libera- ally. If, however, you mean separate cockerels (one to a pen) no. We allow them to run together, as many as possible, usu- ally 25. A. 37. Practically the same as breeding stock, making sure of plenty and variety. A. 38. When indoors, in clean litter with occasional A. 88. Make them scratch for all they get except the mash which is fed in troughs. ARTHUR G. DUSTON, So. Framingham, Mass. WHITE WYANDOTTE SPECIALIST A, 33. Fifty. A. 34. As cockerels mature and begin to notice the females. A. 35. Yes, to make as small lots of them as possible. They will fight less and do better. A. 36. Iuse the small colony coors that I grew the chicks in, as I find that they do better than in the big houses. A. 37. Dry mash, corn, wheat, oats, barley, buckwheat and skimmed milk. Grain three times a day. A SILVER WYANDOT mashes in pans. When outdoors, we aim to throw a handful of grain under and around most every tree (fruit trees), and they benefit the trees by their scratching, etc., having ‘plenty range. Always feeding liberally, besides mashes in troughs. All feeding usually being but three times daily. DR. O. P. BENNETT, Mazon, III. BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCK SPECIALIST 33. Not over 60 to 75. 34. As soon as cockerels begin to bother pullets. 35. When they commence to bother pullets. 36. Place them in different runs. 37. Principally wheat and ground mash. ee ee TE MOTHER AND BROOD C. BRICAULT, M. D. V., Andover, Mass. WHITE WYANDOTTE SPECIALIST A, 33. From 40 to 60. A. 34. When three months old. A. 35. No. A. 37. Whole wheat, cracked corn, beef scraps in hoppers, then once a day a prepared growing food. A. 38. Whole grain in hoppers and growing food once per day Clean water, and always green grass in unlimited quantities. ARTHUR G. BOUCK, Frankfort, N. Y. BARRED PLYMOUTH ROCKS A, 33. From 30 to 50 in each colony house, but give them free range, the colony houses being placed in orchard. 139 SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEPING A. 35. I separate sexes when placing the young stock in winter quarters. A. 36. I grade each sex as to size, etc., and place those of about the same size in each pen. A. 387. I feed growing stock three times daily. Mash in the morning and cracked corn, oats and barley at noon and night, giving them all they will eat. Beef scraps, grit and charcoal are hopper fed. S. J. McQUILLIANDE, Metuchen, N. J. WHITE PLYMOUTH ROCK SPECIALIST A. 87. Mostly corn, wheat and oats. A. 38. I feed all growing stock with hoppers and use the best grain that money will buy. C. H. WYCKOFF, Aurora, N. Y. S. C. WHITE LEGHORN SPECIALIST A. 33. Seventy-five to 100. A. 34. At about 12 weeks of age. A. 35. No, if kept away from the females they are fairly peaceable. A. 37 and 38, After chicks are removed to colony houses their feed contains less fine cracked and more whole grain; and those that have a wide range have the feed where they can go to it at any time. IRVING F. RICE, Courtland, N. Y. 8. C. WHITE LEGHORN SPECIALIST A, 33. One hundred in each colony house. A. 34, About three months: old, or when the cockerels begin to annoy the pullets. A. 35. The most promising exhibition cockerels are sep- arated from large flock and are kept in small flocks. A PRIZE WINNING BUCKEYE HEN AND CHICKS A. 37. Wheat, corn and oats, and a dry mash where they can help themselves at all times; in this dry mash meat is mixed. i A. 38. Only three times a day, scattered in the litter except’ ‘the dry mash which is placed in troughs. J. T. THOMPSON, Hope, Ind. WHITE PLYMOUTH ROCKS AND MAMMOTH BRONZE TURKEYS A. 33. I never house over 50 birds in one building. A. 34. I separate the sexes when they are about three months old. A. 37. I feed my growing stock, that is, after they get to be a couple of months old, the same that I feed my breeding stock, with the exception that I feed them more corn than my breeders, as I consider corn about the best food for growing stock. 140 SECRET OF SUCCESS IN POULTRY CULTURE A VENERABLE POULTRYMAN GIVES RESULTS OF FIFTY YEARS’ EXPERIENCE IN POULTRY CUL- TURE—BELIEVES SECRET LIES IN FEEDING—COMPARES POULTRY, MEAT AND EGGS WITH FOODS WHICH PRODUCE THEM—SELLING EGGS BY WEIGHT—ACCEPTS DR. DECHMANN’S THEORY I. K. FELCH, Natick, Mass. [A lecture delivered apes 1906 ye Sage of Natick before the poultry class at the Rhode Island State eriment Station and reproduc- ed here from copy furnished us by Mr. Felch}. ADMITTING that the feeding of hens is not all there is to poultry culture, yet you, my reader, can spend your lifetime studying the subject and still leave beneficial discoveries for others to make. ‘ Fowls and eggs are a manufactured pro- duct—a ound of flesh or a pound of eggs will be found to cost practically the same, no matter what breed we use to produce them, when we have found under what conditions each separate breed does its best. The Brahma pullets at seven to eight pounds and the White Wyandottes at five to five and one-half pounds, fed and cared for under like circum- stances, will cost the same per pound to produce and the same for care and food during the months of their usefulness. The breed that lays the greatest number of pounds in eggs will cost the most to feed. At the end of their usefulness, say at two years, they sell each at the same per pound. It matters not that it takes seven months to mature the Brahma and six months to mature the Wyandotte, ‘at the grand windup we find things evened up. SELLING EGGS BY WEIGHT Today all eggs are sold by the dozen, but we find 150 Brah- ma eggs, 168 Plymouth Rock, 213 Wyandotte and Rhode Island Red eggs, as these breeds as flocks lay them, all will weigh the same. Now as all are sold at the same price per dozen we find that the Brahmas are suffering under a custom that is protect- ing the smaller breeds, and that the Rocks are receiving 113 per cent and the Wyandottes 13 per cent per pound more than do the Brahmas. The only advantage the Brahmas have is in the private trade they sometimes enjoy where they receive 50 cents per dozen from the wealthy, who often appreciate the difference in the size of eggs. eggs and you would hear little about differences between the cost of keeping of the larger varieties. The present practice of selling by number instead of weight.takes away all the desire or pride of the fancier to produce eggs that are strictly first-class. CONSTITUENTS OF POULTRY PRODUCTS AND FOODS But these conditions can be improved by man. In a single lecture we can give only the most generally used rules for feed- ing, which have thus far given satisfactory results. It is our object to feed that which in its composition is like the elements we find in the desired product, to-wit, poultry meat and eggs, so that it will produce them in abundance and besides give us a fresh, glossy plumage when we are preparing them for ex- hibition, How to do this is the live question of the hour, and to pre- sent the subject so that the young and inexperienced may profit by our words is our endeavor at this time. Our colleges are doing wonderful work in this direction and one does well to study the results of their experiments. But thousands do not do this, even those who are employed as Make 14 pounds (24 ounces) a dozen of: helpers and caretakers in poultry raising. Yet they will read and profit by an essay couched in simple language, and to give them this is our object today. All analyses show that poultry meat and fresh-laid eggs are so nearly alike in their constituent parts that both are produced in their greatest abundance by the use of foods of the same character, this food being secured by the proper mixing of the different grains with vegetable and animal matter. The feed- ing of such a balanced food is wise. Discarding small fractions, we find that a fowl is composed of water, 51 per cent; ash (bone forming), 34 per cent; protein, 24 per cent; fat (or heat), 23 per cent. In the new-laid eggs we find water, 66 per cent; ash (the shell), 12 per cent; protein, 114 per ‘cent; fat, 9 per cent. To feed to produce these essentials is our work. We must. sq mix the grain and meat that we shall secure the exact pro- portion, and furnish carbohydrates for the warmth and comfort of our living factories—for such are our flocks. In following out this theory we find by analysis that corn has water, 11 per cent; ash (or bone), 14 per cent; protein, 8 per cent; carbohydrates, 67 per cent; fat, better than 4 per cent. In peas we have water, 10 per cent; ash, 24 per cent; pro- tein, 17 per cent; carbohydrates and fat combined, 53 per cent. Mangel wurzels have 87 per cent water; ash, 1} per cent; protein, 1} per cent; carbohydrates and fat, 6} per cent. Clover and hay has 15 per cent water; ash, 6 per cent; protein, 7 per cent; carbohydrates and fat, 38 per cent. Sunflowers have water, 84 per cent; ash, 24 per cent; pro- tein, 12 per cent; carbohydrates, 21 per cent; fat, 29 per cent. (Too much carbohydrates and fat for an exclusive food). Beef scraps have water, 11 per cent; ash, 6 per cent; protein, 66 per cent; less than 4 per cent of carbohydrates, but 14 per cent of fat. ; In these we find all that we found in poultry meat and-eggs, besides starch, sugar and gum in the carbohydrates, which with the fat gives the necessary heat. The sunflower with its 21 per cent of carbohydrates and 29 per cent of fat, lacks albumen in proportion, which makes them desirable as a food for only a short time to secure gloss upon the plumage and to fill their skin with fat in our high colored specimens, for exhibition purposes. Another list is expressed in a different manner: Corn, 11 per cent water; 11 per cent muscle growing properties; 14 per cent bone forming properties; balance, heat and fat. Oats, 22 per cent muscle growing; 3 per cent bone forming; balance, heat and fat. Wheat, 17 per cent muscle growing; hardly one per cent bone forming; balance, heat and fat. Barley, 20 per cent muscle growing; 2 per cent bone form- ing; balance, heat and fat. Beans, 32 per cent muscle forming; hardly 1 per cent bone forming; balance, heat and fat. When we combine 15 pounds of corn, 10 pounds of oats, 15 pounds of barley and 15 pounds of wheat bran we have a mixed meal that contains 17 per cent of muscle growing properties, 1} per cent of bone forming properties and the balance is heat and fat. When we add to this composition meal, enough beef scrap and ground clover, so that the mash represents in bulk 141 SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEFiING 15 per cent of meat, 25 per cent of vegetable matter and 60 per cent of this composition meal we have made a balanced ration, which will give the flock no excuse if it fails to produce flesh, eggs or a fine plumage. But here is an item worth knowing: While we can obtain protein from grain, protein derived from milk and meat is much more productive of muscle and early fecundity, and well repaid will be the feeder who is generous in the use of meat and fish bi-products, such as beef scraps, desiccated flsh and beef blood. Of course fresh raw meat and bone must be considered best. Any bi-product that is not clean and wholesome is a questionable commodity. Clean feeding is as essential for fowls as for the human family. ACCEPTS DR. DECHMANN'S THEORY There is something besides the question of muscle growing and egg production which is of vital interest to us. Recently it has been claimed that glass, granite, sea shells, charcoal and even gravel stones are all digestible and are really food as well as helps to digestion and that they complete the A BUNCH OF THRIFTY BARRED ROCKS work of the food in perfecting the plumage and giving it a rich gloss. We see a healthy, brilliant plumage only upon a healthy body and prolific egg producer. The fact that sea shells, charcoal and pounded glass are eagerly eaten led me to accept the theory that the grit and gravel likewise are digested and have a work to perform in pro- ducing a healthy condition in our flocks. Dr. Dechmann, is right. If the feathers contain glass, do we not have a motive for the fowls eating the glass? Here is a case in point: I had a flock of cockerels cooped for killing. They had everything to eat but charcoal and gravel. I commenced to feed these and was astonished at the amount they ate and the gain in flesh they made in ten days, after this addition to their rations. Fowls when molting should never be without food rich in protein (milk and meat), gravel, grit, char- coal and pounded glass. A PROPERLY BALANCED RATION You can see why corn and mangels are a failure in egg pro- duction as compared with cereals rich in protein. Excessive fat is a foe to vital vigor, and this is why very fat hens lay eggs that hatch poorly. A long continued fat condition becomes a disease. A healthy diet is one that has 17 to 20 per cent muscle growing power (such a diet is likewise egg productive) and 13 to 2 per cent of bone forming power so that the chick may be well boned and strong, and that the eggs may be covered in a firm, smooth shell. No one can hatch healthy chicks out of fat, thin-shelled eggs. A The foregoing is the result of my past 50 years’ experience in poultry culture. While it has served me, it will not keep you, my reader, to the front in these days of extensive research, intense application and keen study of the business. Today in almost all businesses we are looking among the bi-products for a large portion of our profits. Thus must we be constant in the outlook for new forms of foods, new rations and methods of care (even to the saving of the feathers) that we may secure the very last cent of profit, getting the greatest growth at the lowest cost for food consumed. The entire nation’s increase in wealth is but 3 per cent each year where labor secures a fair living. This increase gets into so few hands we are slow to believe that it is true. But true enough it is, that careless manage- ment brings failure to any calling. This warning means that we are to give our best efforts in ability, zeal and study, making our calling a second nature, so to speak. A competency comes only by a strenuous life among our fowls. PURE AIR A NECESSITY Pure air is just as much a food for our flocks as the grain we feed. A hun- dred times have I told you that a fowl’s heart beats 150 times each minute of its life. Why? Because it never sweats. Respiration is the channel through which they expel the waste and impurities that perspiration accomplishes for the human family. They need seven times the air in proportion to weight that does the horse or man. Think of this: A ten pound hen demands the same amount that a child of seventy pounds does. Furnish this and the rations I have and will describe, with housing that will se- cure the temperature of May and September, and you will see a corresponding eggproduct. It will be folly to furnish excessive heat and expect a pro- duct that is largely albumen. For one may as well overfeed the furnace that drives the looms and fail to furnish the wool or cotton out of which to weave the cloth. The hens are as much a factory for the production of eggs as the cotton mills are for the production of cloth. Each day they must have their exact needs supplied if they are to give us the best product of their labor. Her food must be such that she can glean from it the 3 8-10 bone forming material, the 214 per cent of protein and suficient carbohydrates to produce health. , How to do this is the question in poultry culture. Poultry culture is no longer a problem of thoroughbreds alone. Even those who reed primarily for exhibition purposes have to be- come poulterers for fully 50 per cent of their yearly product TO PRODUCE DESIRABLE EGGS Why do hens lay soft-shell eggs? Why do soft-shell eggs hatch poorly? You say the fowls are too fat. The fowls are 142 SUCCESSFUL CHICK GROWING all right enough. The fault is with you. You are feeding too fat-producing food. In factory language, you are feeding the furnace and neglecting to furnish material for the looms—in this case the necessary elements for an egg product. You are not feeding protein enough—meat, barley, oats and clover— if the birds are confined so that they cannot glean from the fields the insects, worms and vegetables they need to manufacture meat and plumage and eggs. A healthy plumage is as essen- tial for perfect chicks as any part of the body. When those overfat hens have had a chance at green cut clover, meat, oats, wheat, sea gravel, shells and charcoal at their discretion and are made to exercise in open scratching sheds, then the eggs will come smooth and firm in shell and hatch you the strong, healthy chickens you desire. WHAT AND WHEN TO FEED Wheat is probably the most perfect food found in a single grain. As it is desirabl to feed the meat in the mashes, the bi- product of wheat from our best flour mills is probably better and cheaper than whole wheat. Damaged wheat or grain is poor stuff to buy; good sound , heat screenings are far better. Only heavy, first-class oats are profitable. None other should be bought. They are per- fect bone food, but no single grain can be fed constantly and satisfactory results be secured. The old saying that a barrel of oats and barrel of buckwheat will make a barrel of eggs has, I fear, given a fictitious value to buckwheat as a food for fowls. As the original saying came from a farmer whose flock had a pan of clabbered milk to which to repair at will, and the run of a barn stored with clover and millet, I am of the opinion that the buckwheat ran away with the reputation that should have been given to the milk and clover as the balancers of the ration that gave the barrel of eggs. The fowls surely had no excuse not to lay. Few will advise the buying of buckwheat when the mid- dlings and bran from good sound wheat can be procured. Corn and clover are all we can feed in winter to secure an egg whose yolk will produce for us a golden sponge cake and custard. And many families for this reason will pay 50 cents per dozen for Brahma, eggs the year round when the fowls are thus fed. Oats, ‘buckwheat and wheat, without clover, produce eggs that make this cake and custard white. It is even well to know the cause and effect of color in eggs. The vegetables to be fed are cabbage, green clover (steamed when dry), mangels and lettuce. Those that are to be cooked for mashes are potatoes, beets, onions, turnips, squashes or pumpkins, steamed clover meal, beef scraps and corn meal—a good combination for high colored eggs in winter. Corn meal and wheat should be mixed with boiled potatoes and turnips. These many mashes should only be fed in suffi- cient quantities so that they will be eaten up clean in the morn- ing. If overdosed the flocks become cloyed and lazy. Give the mash as a light breakfast and it will send the fowls to nest where its stimulating influence hastens egg delivery. The last meal at night should be of mixed grains, and pure water must be given morning and evening, for to drink is the last thing a fowl does before going to roost. There is no saving in feeding what is called cob meal as the cob will not digest. Shell your corn before grinding. When a breeder is constantly with his flocks, it is probably best to feed at four times during the day the quantity which one naturally would feed morning and evening. Fowls soon learn to come at your call to feed them. I had one feeder whose call was a regular war whoop, another used a dinner bell, another a small school bell; but each brought all of the flock within hearing. Fowls have brains and know how to use them. I have no use for a small head, diminutive comb, ear lobes or wattles. These head embellishments when generously developed are sure signs of procreative vigor in a male. FORMULA No. 1 To return to feeding, I present in Formula No. 1 a meal made up of 50 pounds of oats; 1 bushel of corn; 1 bushel of barley; 2 bushels of wheat bran; 1 bushel of charcoal. These are to be well mixed and ground into a fine meal. For a light breakfast use as much of this as necessary, add 20 per cent as much ground beef scraps and scald thoroughly, leaving it stand over night. If too moist in the morning add wheat bran to secure a crumbly mass. If in winter, or if the fowls be yarded away from green food, add clover:meal to the mixture. Feed dry mixed grains at night. FORMULA No. 2 When feeding potatoes or turnips mash them and add equal parts of corn meal, wheat bran and beef scraps until it is a crumb- ly mass, letting the scraps or desiccated fish, whichever you use, be 15 per cent of the bulk. Avoid all wet, soggy mashes. Feed dry grains in the scratching shed for balance of the day. If you have cabbage or mangels, make the morning mash without vegetables and give these raw vegetables for the flock to employ themselves with through the day, concluding the day’s feeding with oats and barley. FORMULA No. 3 In the morning mix hot steamed clover meal 20 per cent, meat scrap or desiccated fish, 20 per cent, composite meal (as in No. 1), 60 per cent, with sufficient skimmed milk or milk whey to make a crumbly mass. Feed mixed grains balance of the day in the litter of their shed. FORMULA No. 4 You may live near a creamery, or run a butter farm, so that you can secure or have quantities of skimmed milk and butter- milk. Heat it to curds, using the whey to mix formula 3. For the second day give a light breakfast of mixed grains. Then at noon take equal parts of beef scraps and cheese curds well mixed, using enough wheat middlings and corn meal to ab- sorb the moisture. For vegetables use cabbage and mangel wurzels and feed oats and wheat at night. FORMULA No. 5 Cow peas, oats and wheat bran, equal parts, are to be made into a meal. Mix equal parts of this compound with clover meal and meat meal. Scald into a hot mash for the morning feed. Changing these mashes from day to day will supply every possible want for egg production. When beans can be purchased at one dollar per bushel, they are a cheap ingredient to mix with these mashes instead of barley. If you were to feed any one of these formulas every day and all day, good as they are, your fowls will reject them. Then change is the best policy. There is a false idea that salt is injurious to fowls. On the other hand, these mashes should be reasonably seasoned with pepper and salt to make them palatable to yourself. Don’t overdose them. In all formulas we take it for granted none but first-class ‘heavy oats or hulled oats are to be used. It is folly to buy damaged or musty grain for fowls. I would not take such as a gift. With reference to oats for young chicks, I would use only hulled or crushed oats. 143 SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEE?fiiss The advocates of feeding dry grain to chicks have much to commend them, provided the chicks have perfect liberty to roam and the numbers are limited to such a degree that they secure sufficient worms and insects for the meat supply and the fields furnish the new grass as their vegetable diet. When the chickens are raised in large numbers and in limited quarters it is folly to use only dry grain if we are to secure the best results. CARE OF HENS AND CHICKS Many persons tell you not to feed chicks for 24 to 48 hours after hatching. This may be good advice for those who hatch with incubators and rear the chicks in brooders, but with hens, especially the earlier broods, the chicks often are two days in hatching. It is well to place before them a saucer of crushed crackers and scalded milk over which pulverized shell is scattered, so that the hen and the early chicks may satisfy their hunger. This will cause the hen to remain 12 to 24 hours longer on the nest and may result in one or more doubtful eggs hatching, and a strong lot when she leaves the nest. The hen with her brood should be removed to a large box, the bottom of which has been overlaid with a gravel sand and fine ground grit covered with hay chaff, there to remain a couple of days before being taken to the lawn or a field. The first meal in this large box should be a bread made from the meal mentioned in Formula No. 1. The bread should be prepared just as our wives make a corn cake, and baked thor- oughly. Crumble it into scalded skimmed milk, squeeze the milk out well and give the milk as drink for the first day or two, after that in the forenoons for two weeks, giving them pure water in the afternoon. This bread and milk is the forenoon feed. In the afternoon give them mixed dry feed like the standard, or prepare one for yourself of 20 pounds of corn, 15 pounds of hulled oats, 10 pounds of wheat and 2 quarts of charcoal. Crack all as fine as canary sand. Sift out the flour and add two quarts of canary and millet seed and you will have the best dry food for chicks you can possibly buy. Give the chicks a free run so they can secure worms and young grass blades. When the chicks are two weeks old they can be fed as we feed our general flocks. Let the little fellows scratch in the hay seed for this dry grain. If they are being reared in confined quarters they must have a meat ration. Do not forget that the protein from milk and meat hastens them to maturity quicker than if they have to depend on the protein from grain. Fine gravel grit, sea gravel and charcoal in boxes, to take at their option, must be provided. Early, before the grass blades have started, sow oats in frames and leave them for the chicks to harvest for grain food. This is essential to perfect development. If chicks have field liberty, I do not believe in meat rations for them till weaned, for it is apt to cause too great muscle development in proportion to the bone structure. The bone must be strong and well grown, then put on muscle and fat. If you look out for the bone structure, you will have no weak, tottering chicks. I believe in getting the chicks upon the ground at the earliest moment after frost is out of the ground and before the brood s ten days old. Before the frost is out the floor of the quarters would better be covered three inches deep with a gravel loam, and furnish all flocks with outside runs that they may have a part of each day in open air. A damp, chilly atmosphere must be guarded against. Dry, cold quarters are far better than quarters that are damp and very much warmer. A lack of bone-forming food with an excess of protein and fat-forming grains causes the tottering weakness we too often see in flocks and gives us the grown chicks with weak knock- knees and weak hips, which we see rising above the back as they crouch upon the ground. Hulled oats, wheat with nutritive salts and bone meal given when these symptoms appear, will soon correct the matter. When green clover is not to be had, steam the dry clover and feed it until you can get them out on the ground. ‘ DO NOT FORCE THE CHICKS Men tell you they can raise good chickens on cracked corn alone. I tell you I can raise better ones on the mixed feed and I know these latter will lay earlier in life and produce more eggs during life and a larger number annually. It will take some- thing more than a dam that has laid 200 eggs a year to make sure the second generation will make a like record. These fowls that are noted for their personal records have in most cases made them by extensive forcing processes. This forcing process should never be indulged in when their eggs are being used for incubation. They should be kept under normal conditions, and then the chances are that their chickens when forced may repeat or excel their ancestors. The hen in the best physical condition during the breeding season gives us the phenomenal chickens both in the exhibition and in the breeding pen. Of what we eat are we made. It is a well-known fact that when all else fails to agree with an invald, a raw, fresh egg can be taken and assimilated as a food by the most sensitive stomach. The chronic invalid, the child and the hospital inmate are and should be large consumers of eggs. If we can demonstrate that by feeding a special ration we can produce eggs highly charged with beneficial salts, it will give such eggs a great, vital value for the use of such persons and any price almost will be cheerfully paid, even 50 cents to one dollar a dozen. I believe if we can feed to our mated stock 10 grains of Dr. Dechmann’s nutritive salt to each fowl, together with the feed that I have recommended, nearly or quite all the eggs will hatch and nearly all chicks can be raised into healthy, strong and very prolific stock. If we can show this vital force in the egg, surely we should be led to follow up the theory in the feeding and rearing of the young stock up to mature age, thus giving to the purchaser a better, more prolific lot of fowls. This is the course the thinking poultryman of the future will adopt. What matters it that it adds 10 cents per dozen to the cost of the eggs or 30 cents each to the chickens? The purchasing public will cheerfully pay a dollar more to secure its benefits. I will not detain you longer. If I have aroused you so you will think of these things, and induced you to enter a strenuous life in poultry culture, my mission has been accomplished. We often hear jibes at the expense of writers who try to tell the novice how to set a hen and how to manage the young brood. These “criticisers were once novices themselves and needed like instructions. Old writers are too prone to forget that the world is ever new, that it is only they who are growing old. Too many of them think they have nothing to learn. The young-old writer is the salvation of the rising genera- tion—admitting there is little that is “new under the sun.” We should remember that all things are new to the young poultrymen just starting in the business and they form the audiences that should listen attentively to the things that have carried the old fanciers successfully through life. MAKING NESTS So small (?) a thing as care in making a suitable nest many times saves a valuable sitting of eggs. It is the little cares that secure success. In the early season if a sod of earth six inches .thick be fitted into a fifteen-inch square box and a place seven by ten inches be hollowed out but left flat at the bottom, and the whole warmed to 100 degrees, the eggs also warmed to the same degree before the hen has been taken to her new sitting coop, in nineteen cases:out of twenty she will take kindly to the nest 144 SUCCESSFUL CHICK GROWING and eggs and not leave it for forty-eight hours. Nor should she be disturbed for that length of time, that the germs may get a good start, for during the first forty-eight hours more germs are killed than during any other period of incubation under hens. After two days I should gently remove each hen each day for fifteen to twenty minutes, until she would come off by her- self when her nest was opened for her each morning. If they are taught to come off daily they will stay off but a short time and if properly fed their bowels seldom become deranged. They even take on flesh while incubating. When it can be so arrang- ed that the place or room where they are nesting can be at a temperature of 45 degrees, then we can hatch in winter as well as in spring—if the eggs are gathered before the germs are chilled. Oftentimes the eggs are declared infertile when the trouble is that they have not been gathered often enough through the wintry day to save the germs from chilling. The woman who had the best success raising chickens for me never allowed the hens to come off the nests by themselves. She took them off each day and returned them in fifteen minutes. Almost invariably all the eggs had chickens in them and nearly all the eggs hatched. She it was who raised for me twenty-two Brahmas, in two broods which weighed 53 10-16ths pounds in sixty-one days and at 100 days old weighed 107 pounds. INDIVIDUAL COOPS In any latitude after the middle of April, or at any time after the frost is out of the ground, the very best plan is to arrange a little coop and yard that is to be occupied by the days or that continues the work to the twenty-third or twenty- fourth day, which often oceurs with sitters of low temperature. It is folly to set a hen of low temperature in winter or one of high temperature in summer, for both will rot the eggs and give you no chicks. In selecting a hen in winter one used to it can tell by feeling the lower body if she should be set. If it feels bare and hot she is the one you want but put no more eggs under he than will touch her bare skin. If more eggs are set the chances are that in her turning them several will get beyond her body, a cold night will freeze the germs and before the three weeks are up half the germs will be killed. If care is not taken to secure a hen with this proper heat, bad results are often the case. How often we hear mensay: ‘I set three hens on eggs from the same breeders; two gave me good broods, the other not a chick.” It is often the case that a hen sticks to th: nest and apparently bids fair to be a good hatcher, yet she has not heat enough even to start the germs. Now suppose you set her with several others in similar nests. During the three weeks she changes nests with one or more, thus spoiling not only the hatch of her own nestful of eggs, but one or more of the others. Or she retards the hatch to 24 or 25 days, and several cripples come out, with more or less chicks that do not grow up to be average specimens of the breed. All this one worthless hen and careless owner can accomplish and such poultry keepers are the ones loudest in favor of incubator raised chicks. Now, my reader, you can save all this trouble by care and forethought, by attending to the little things. One may care for a dozen incubating hens as easily and in the same time as he can for one or two. He may give up a room to ten or twenty sitters and arrange a tier of nests like the accompanying cut. TIER OF NESTS FOR SITTING HENS ARRANGEMENT OF NESTS FOR SITTING HENS By the use of the arrangement of nests illustrated above one is enabled to readily care for ten sitting hens. Fully described by Mr. Felch. brood when hatched, and form the nest upon the ground. Fill the ground with boiling water, make the nest of chaff and hay not over ah inch deep and set your hen. The moisture in the earth will help to secure a good hatch. If during incubation the weather has been very dry, pour water around the nest the 17th or 18th day—it may save one or more chicks from stick- ing in the shell. In case you use this kind of nest, see that the hen comes off daily for two or three days after the second day and she will form the habit of coming off at a regular time—if you are regular in giving her fresh water and feed. FOOD FOR SITTING HENS Let her food while incubating be principally wheat, with a little corn and oats. If set inside « house furnish her a grass sod or have the coop so slatted that she can reach through and get the grass. I repeat, be sure she has vegetable growth, grit, wheat, oats and a little corn while incubating, and see to it that she leaves the nest daily for at least fifteen days. TEMPERATURE OF BROODING HENS The hen that hatches the eggs in twenty-one days will have a healthier, hardier brood than the one that hatches in nineteen These nests are fifteen inches square, fitted with sods the. under sides of which are scooped out two inches deep for a space 9 by 7 inches near the center of the sod. The bottom of the scoop should be flat. Place the sod, grass side up in the nest and press down the portion above the excavation. Cover the bottom of the nest with tobacco dust and carbolic lime and build the nest not over one inch thick with soft hay and chaff. To do the work most satisfactorily, wait till you have ten hens that wish to sit. Warm a few dozen china eggs and place the hens upon them. If they settle down you are safe to put the warm eggs under them. You can care for those hens in fifteen minutes each day by gently removing them, closing the door for fifteen minutes, then dropping the door which becomes an inclined plane for them to walk up into their nests. Those that do not, you can forcibly return, and then close the door until the next day. You can care for twenty hens in a few minutes. While the hens are off you have time to cleanse the nests that have been fouled and to remove any hens that have sickened from any cause, but when removed daily few will be- come sick. When these ten birds have hatched their eggs give to each eleven chicks until the number of chicks is exhausted and reset the hens thus relieved from raising a brood. In the foregoing pages I have given the feeding formulas for feeding young chicks. As fast as you have eleven well dried chicks remove a hen with them to larger boxes that have ample hay and chaff in the bottom and feed her with cake made from our formula, No. 1. It must be baked hard and then crumbled into scalded milk, with the pulverized egg shells. She will settle down to her box for twelve hours or more. * 145 SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEPING By following this plan you will have gathered all the re- tarded eggs under the last hen to hatch, which is usually the one with the lowest temperature. Let her be one of the hens to take eleven of the chicks to raise for she will be the one least liable to set the second time. When the nests have been ren- ovated and rebuilt, your quarters will be ready for another set of hens. PLAN OF YARDING HENS AND CHICKS If you have the land, take your horse and plow and upon a grass plot strike your parks or yards, 50 by 100 feet in size. Along the flat side of the furrow string eight inch wide boards and drive stakes (five feet or more in length) so they will come six inches above, four feet wide, inch-mesh, wire fencing. Tack the lower edge of the wire fencing to the board and the top edge to the stakes. When the boards are strung turn the fur- rows back. String a strong wire from the tops of the stakes to lace the fence to between the stakes; this will save half the number of stakes. You now have an enclosure proof against night prowling vermin that in many places decimate our flocks. On the north end it young chicks will appropriate a low board border to a walk. It teaches them to roost on an elevated perch, and such chicks learn to roost without setting their keel bone flat upon the perch. All this will prevent huddling and the vitiating effect that comes from it. If these chicks are to be confined in these yards, at sixteen weeks take all males to new quarters, that is, all such as are to be retained for breeding stock and exhibition purposes, kill- ing all that are to be sacrificed to the broiler market, leaving the twenty-five to thirty pullets to enjoy each yard alone. Now for the next two months feed these pullets heavily with formula No. 1, with a large proportion of meat. The yards will furnish ample growing grass as vegetable for them. As they approach fecundity or when the two year old hens have been marketed, remove these pullets to their winter quarters, made vacant by the killing of the hens. The males sold on the market will have paid the expenses of rearing the whole flock to the age when the pullets commence to lay. ; Thoroughly rake these vacated yards and top them with horse manure after having sowed them down with clover and is a good plan to build an open shed facing the yards; the back two feet high and the shed roof five feet high in front, the toof being large enough to cover four feet of grass. Place your chicken coops, five in number, ten feet apart. The chick coops should be 30 by 30 inches with 12 inch sides and double roofs, and they should be slatted in front, the palings being 3 inches apart. I say full three inches apart just so the hen may be re- tained. It is a fact that nine-tenths of all crooked backs come from coops being too closely slatted. In squeezing through the chicks slip their hips—crooked backs and wry tails are the results. After the chicks are ten days old the doors can be fastened open and the hens have their liberty with the chicks in all fair weather. WHEN CHICKS GROW OLDER When one of the five hens shows a disposition to wean her chicks, take all the hens away. When they are six weeks old remove all the small coops, leaving the chicks to go to roost upon the perch that should run along the rear wall of the shed, eighteen inches from the ground: This perch should be put in when the shed is made, for the chicks will form the habit of roosting there by perching upon it in the day time before they are forced to abandon their coops. It is not a bad plan to arrange poles along the open yards. Did you ever notice how QUARTERS FOR HENS AND CHICKS Partial ground plan of out-door quarters for the accommodation of 20 hens and 220 chicks, as described in detail in the accompanying article by Mr. Felch. red-top grass. In the early spring clean up the coarse manure. The young grass will come with the original sod and you are ready by the middle of April for another year’s business. During all the life of these chicks keep their boxes filled with finely cracked oyster shell and charcoal. Of coarse after eight weeks of age they can be fed without cracking the corn; the oats, wheat and barley can be fed whole and mixed in the proportion of an equal part of each. For this dry feed for chicks under six weeks old crack all grain to the size of canary seed, adding canary and millet seed to the compound as directed in the previous pages. We have many breeds and are constantly adding new breeds and varieties to the list. The Almighty has given us brains to govern circumstances, and so we may make our flock most productive and profitable, adding alike to our pleasure and material welfare. 146 CHAPTER NINE ROASTERS, BROILERS AND CAPONS SOUTH SHORE SOFT ROASTERS FAMOUS SOFT MEATED WINTER CHICKENS GROWN ALONG THE SOUTH SHORE OF MASSACHUSETTS BAY—FAVORITE VARIETIES—HOW BIRDS ARE GROWN—ONE DEALER MARKETS OVER 250 TONS A YEAR IN BOSTON—LIVE POULTRY AT 30 CENTS A POUND SOLD AT GROWERS DOOR—A PROFITABLE INDUSTRY. HERE is probably no more profitable branch of the poultry industry than that of growing “soft roasters’” as practiced in the famous “South Mass. For the most part the chief producing section for this toothsome and expensive poultry product is confined mainly to the upper portion of Plymouth county, Massachusetts, and includes a radius of nearly twenty miles round about the quaint New England towns of Hingham, Norwell, Rockland and Hanover. This business of soft roaster growing was a comparatively new thing less than ten years ago, and to-day is stjll largely confined to a rather limited area on the ‘South Shore” of Mas- sachusetts bay, so that the product is known to marketmen as the “South Shore Soft Roaster.” Boston market is an exceptionally good one for all kinds of first quality poultry products and to this fact is due, in part, the extraordinary demand for South Shore chickens at prices that will seem most remarkable to those readers who are fa- miliar with the selling prices of ordinary chickens in this and other sections of the country. Practically all of the entire output of the “soft roaster” section of the South Shore is sold in the Boston market and it is extremely doubtful if any of this exceedingly dainty and luxurious poultry meat finds its way outside the confines of the “Old Bay State.” The producers seldom sell direct to the marketmen, the majority of the soft roasters being bought alive by a dealer who makes a contract with the grower to raise birds to be sold to him when ready for market. $2.50 TO $3.50 EACH FOR LIVE ROASTING CHICKENS AT WHOLESALE These dealers make regular trips throughout the section covering twenty or more miles in a day, collecting such birds as are in marketable condition, paying the producers in cash for their product according to the live weight and the prevailing prices. The demand for South Shore chickens is so great that they are seldom quoted in the market reports, the marketmen usually engaging the product of the dealer well in advance of shipments and the goods have usually a customer waiting for them on arrival. High priced private trade, the leading swell clubs and the.more prominent hotels take the bulk of the out- put. The well grown soft roasters frequently net the producer $2.50 to $3.50 each at the door of his home when the season is at its height. The dealer takes all birds to his home place to be killed, dressed and shipped to Boston marketmen, appor- tioned according to the orders which he has received for im- mediate delivery. The dealer makes all arrangements with the Shore” district but a few miles south of Boston, i ' marketmen and the producer is saved all the bother and worry | of killing, dressing, packing, marketing and collecting, and has the advantage of disposing of his birds alive for cash, at a hand- some profit without even the trouble of catching the birds in. their pens. It is scarcely any wonder that in the soft roaster. district nearly every family having poultry is engaged in ‘this profitable branch of the poultry business. ONE DEALER MARKETS, 250 TONS OF ROASTERS A YEAR To give the reader some idea of the magnitude of the soft roaster business we cite the fact that one dealer alone ships. to Boston upwards of 250 tons of this prime grade of dressed poultry annually. The writer had the pleasure of assuring, himself of the truth of this statement by examination of the records of shipments, the precise items of which obviously are not for publication, “since very few business men care to have their books opened wide in print for the benefit of the public. : The Light. Brahma is the most, propular. variety with soft, roaster. growers and undoubtedly two-thirds of the. roasting’ chickens produced along the South Shoré ‘are either Light Brahmas or Brahma crosses. The White Plymouth Rock is’ however becoming very popular and promises: to be heard from later. To a limited extent the Barred Rocks aré also used. The Rocks possess the advantage of rather quicker growth and can be made to develop into a finished market bird at top weight in a little less time than the Brahma. In hard- iness this American variety seems to be the equal of its Asiatic: relative and the near future will unquestionably find greater numbers of the White Rocks on soft roaster farms. The Brah- ma has however proved its worth and will be likely to be, for. many ‘years to come, the leading soft roaster breed. UP-TO-DATE INCUBATORS USED FOR HATCHING Many roaster growers do not keep any breeding stock and buy all their eggs for hatching. Practically all eggs are hatched in modern, up-to-date incubators and the chicks are mainly reared under hot-water pipes, the “open hover” pipe brooder house system or some modification of it being the most popular. Where breeding birds are kept the method of housing and caring for them varies with the owner, colony breeding houses- and dry feeding are probably the most in favor, though on some plants long laying houses will be found and some feed moist mashes. There are a number of breeders who make a regular busi- ness of producing hatching eggs to sell to roaster growers and this has developed into quite an extensive branch of the poul- try business in this section. Such egg men regularly get 50 cents a dozen for hatching eggs the year round. 147 SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEerinu COLONY PLAN OF HOUSING BREEDERS—HOW THEY ARE FED It will suffice to detail the colony plan of housing breeders. The fresh air house promises to become a popular colony house, but at present closed colony houses are the rule. In a house having about 90 to 100 square feet of floor space are kept from 30 to 35 females and usually three males. These birds are fed a dry grain mixture consisting mainly of cracked corn, oats and wheat in varying proportions, but averaging about equal parts. Beef scrap, pure water and grit are kept before the birds.all the time and green food is fed often in winter; chiefly turnips or beets split and nailed up for the fowls to pick at. Cabbages are also used as well.as cut clover SOUTH SHORE SOFT ROASTER and cut alfalfa. In the warm weather the birds have liberal runs on grass land. The houses are run practically wide open in mild weather and open by day in cold weather. The fresh air house is run wide open the year round. Good egg yields are obtained and the fertility is much better than the average. For hatching the eggs modern hot air incubators are chiefly used. THE HATCHING SEASON : For the Christmas trade the grower of roasting chickens begins hatching in April and runs well into the summer. Many growers hatch chicks the year round, disposing of some as broilers, but the quantity of broilers produced is not large in comparison to the roaster business. Hatching for the regular soft roaster trade begins in earnest about the first of August and continues well into cold weather. y HANDSOME PRICES OBTAINABLE The period of best prices for soft roasting chickens is from June 1st to July 15th, at which time the “top notch” roaster will bring the producer 30 cents, and sometimes more, per pound live weight. And consider just one moment that at this price the dealer goes to the home of the producer, in most cases goes into the coops, catches the birds, weighs them and pays cash. The producer’s only trouble is to raise the birds and put them in market condition. The lowest prices prevail between October 1st and Novem- ber Ist, when the dealer usually pays from 14 to 17 cents per pound live weight. At this time much of the product is ‘“far- mer raised,” so that the prices for roasters that are not of first quality will sometimes fall to 12 to 13 cents per pound alive. A good deal of western poultry reaches the Boston market at this season and helps keep the prices down. TIME OF HEAVY SHIPMENTS The time of heaviest shipments of soft roasters to Boston market is usually between March 1st and August 15th, and begins again September 1st. During June and July, when soft roasters are netting the producers 30 cents per pound alive, the consumer has to pay from 45 to 50 cents per pound at re- tail. Out of the difference the dealer and the marketmen have to take their profits. METHODS OF FEEDING GROWING ROASTERS There are nearly as many methods of feeding the growing chicks as there are soft roaster growers. Some use moist mashes, some combine moist mashes and dry grain food and many feed dry grain food exclusively. Almost every grower you meet thinks he alone has the only food ration that will grow chicks successfully (and perhaps he has—for him). It is the same old story we find everywhere in other branches of the poultry business,—there are many good rations which may all be adapted to suit the needs of the one who uses them; the chief essentials being wholesome food, fed in reasonable variety. In every case, whether the grower feeds as does his neighbor or not, the objective point is the same; all are seeking to produce a large, plump, soft meated, yellow fleshed chicken grown in the quickest possible time. Some of the most successful roaster growers start their chicks on dry grain chick food, obtaining the best, ready-mixed food of this kind that the market affords. The chick food is fed freely and kept always before the chicks. Incentive to ex- ercise is supplied by scattering a part of the food in a litter of cut clover, mow sweepings or cut alfalfa. Pure water is kept always before the chicks. The brooders are kept comfortably warm and well aired. Beef scrap or other meat food is fed as early as the fourth day and is usually kept before the chicks from then on to the time when they are ready for the dealer to take to market. Hopper feeding of dry grain is extensively practiced. NEWLY HATCHED CHICKS ARE CAREFULLY WATCHED The first few days the chicks are in the brooders they are kept moving by the attendant and prevented from “bunching” or huddling in little groups. This is to prevent them from find- ing out that they can get warm by so bunching, and to teach 148 ~ ROASTERS, BROILERS AND CAPONS them that they can only get warm underneath the hovers. This plan means a little extra work when the brood is first taken from the incubator, but it pays, as the chicks are much less likely to huddle outside the hover and become chilled. CRACKED YELLOW CORN AND BEEF SCRAPS THE COMMON GROWING FOOD When the little chicks are three or four weeks old it is com- mon practice to begin to wean them from the chick food by gradually adding a little cracked yellow corn and small wheat to their food, or feeding a mash of yellow corn meal, wheat bran, middlings and beef scrap. This is increased gradually and the proportion of chick food fed reduced until the chick food is stopped altogether. In the same manner less and less wheat is fed until the birds get very little but cracked corn and beef scrap. Some flocks are grown altogether on cracked yellow corn and beef scrap fed from a hopper. The amount of freedom given the birds differs with the individual breeders. Some allow practically free range, while others grow their birds in very cramped and limited quarters. It is no uncommon sight to see from 50 to 80 half-grown to full-grown birds occupying a yard not over forty, feet square with a small house about 6 by 9 feet. In such crowded quarters the birds apparently do well, but undoubtedly require more attention and more careful feeding than those allowed more liberal accommodations. ALL COCKERELS ARE CAPONIZED Both the pullets and cockerels are sold as soft roasters. It is customary to caponize all the cockerels as soon as they are big enough. Plymouth Rocks are usually ready to caponize when they reach from two to three pounds. live: weight, while from three to four pounds is about the right weight for Brahmas. Like all fancy market poultry, soft roasters must be grown quickly and should be sold as soon as they are “ripe.” They should be plump and soft meated, with breasts well rounded. Slips and pullets are sold off first since they are the first to go by the ripe age. This is usually when the pullets are from four to six months old. Much depends on the birds themselves and any evidences of maturity are considered indications for marketing. If pullets are permitted to come to laying or other- wise “go by” they make a less desirable dressed product and lose much of the ‘‘soft meatedness” desired. An experienced dealer or marketman can tell birds which have “gone by” al- most at a glance. For capons the best selling age is usually from six to nine months. The best selling weights are from eight to ten pounds per bird when prices are highest, while at moderate prices the larger the roaster the better it will sell, as a rule. OVER $4,000 FOR ONE MAN’S OUTPUT ONE SEASON As an example of the prices paid to growers by the dealers who collect the birds, the following will prove interesting, al- though the names are withheld by request. A certain dealer has been regularly drawing on a carpenter who lives near the town of Rockland, Mass., and who makes a business of grow- ing soft roasters. For several weeks in 1905 this dealer paid him over $200 a week in cash at the door of his home for live soft roasting chickens, and one day in May the dealer took on a load of about 150 roasters, for which the carpenter received $375 in cold cash. Allowing that the birds averaged ten pounds each, and that the live weight price was 25 cents per pound, this was an average of $2.50 per bird. Many fanciers who advertise extensively would be glad to sell as large an order for the same money, particularly as in such a sale there are no culls for off color eyes, faulty markings or other fancy points. The only essential points are a prime, plump, well rounded, yellow skinned carcass; quickly grown, soft meated and of good market weight. The dealer assured us that this man had at that time over $1500 worth of stock visible that was nearly ready to market, and said further that by the close of the season beginning Feb- ruary 1st and ending July 1st, he would have paid this grower between $4,000 and $4,500 for live chickens. How much of this was profit to the grower he could not say, but believed that it would be fair to say one-half could be considered profit to pay the grower for his labor. This is only one of many cases, too numerous to mention in this article. HOW THEY ARE DRESSED All soft roasters are dry picked. The method of killing is to bleed the bird by severing the blood vessels in the throat and then sticking it in the brain to paralyze the bird and thus loosen the feathers. As shown in the illustration, the picker sits while working. All feathers except the stiff quills are saved and sorted by the picker while at work dressing the birds. The picker has two tubs close at hand and places the white feathers in one and the colored ones in another. The feathers are sold to bedding manufacturers in the city and net, the dealer several hundred dollars annually. All South Shore soft roasters, whether slips, capons or pullets, are dressed clean; all the feathers except the small ones on the tips of the wings are removed. Where the birds are to be marketed as capons the Philadelphia style of dressing is sometimes practiced as shown in the illustration showing South Shore capons dressed Philadelphia style. These three pairs of capons were most attractive specimens of the Plymouth Rock- Brahma cross. The center pair weighed 18} pounds, the pair on the right 16 pounds and that on the left 16 pounds. After the roasters have been stripped of their feathers, which is quick- ly done, they are thrown into a tank of cold water to cool them thoroughly and get rid of all animal heat. At the close of the day the pickers take the chickens from, the tank and hang them in carefully sorted pairs from wooden racks, where they are left to dry over night. In the morning before the expressman arrives for the day’s shipment the birds are packed in boxes having lids which fasten on strong bolts. Clean burlap is the only packing used. The weights are carefully ascertained and a record kept of the gross, net and tare weights. A copy of this record with a bill for the goods accompanies each shipment inside of the box. Certainly this branch of the poultry business pays and is worthy of careful development in other sections of the country. Boston surely has no monopoly on the buyer who will pay high prices for fancy chicken meat. There must be others in our, many large cities who are simply waiting to be educated up to what the prime soft roaster really is as a table delicacy so that the clamor of their palates will result in a loosening of purse strings. Something has been done to develop this trade in the neighborhood of our large cities other than Boston, but up to date there are plenty of opportunities for building up a business in new territory and creating a demand. Enterprising poultrymien are sure to recognize a good thing and help to push it along, and it is to be hoped that there soon will be many more soft roaster centers that will rival the famous “South Shore” in the production of this desirable table delicacy. 149 SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEPING SUCCESSFUL BROILER RAISING CHOOSING THE BREED—HOW TO FEED AND FORCE BROILERS FOR MARKET—EXPERT AD- VICE GIVEN IN DETAIL—TWO POUND BROILERS AT EIGHT WEEKS OLD—PRACTICAL AD- VICE FROM THE SCHOOL OF EXPERIENCE ARTHUR G. DUSTON, South Framingham, Mass. I believe that many lose courage in raising broilers by not obtaining the right stock at the start. At the request of the editor I am going to present to the readers some hints on broiler- raising as exemplified by me on my farm. Many try Brahmas. They might do far worse. Let us take the Brahma from the egg and follow it. Mr. Felch says Brahmas are superior for this purpose. Yet, in an argument with an incubator manufacturer his first and best-proved claim is, that they do not hatch as well artificially as eggs from the American or Mediterranean classes. Does it pay to put eggs in machines that will make the chick cost, on coming into the brooder house, 25 to 50 per cent more than others? Once in the brooder, Brahmas prove very strong as little chicks, but look out for leg-weaknesses, their heavy bodies proving too much for small legs. Again, anyone watching chicks raised artificially knows that they will attain their height earlier than those raised with hens. So a Brahma chick has that against it as a broiler, for long legs with feathers on them hurt a broiler in the market. But properly taken care of, Light Brahmas will prove fairly satisfactory as broilers. As roasters, which subject cannot be even touched on in this article, they are choice. While the Brahma is under consideration it seems well to take up two of the more popular crosses made with them, viz: Leghorn on Brahma and Wyandotte on Brahma. Leghorn on Brahma have some very good points which are: Yellow skin and legs, fairly plump bodies, and they also feather early, but a large proportion of the early cockerels will be so near full blood Leghorn that they would easily be taken for them by a casual observer, and to force them, giving a liberal quantity of meat or ground bone, together with the heat, will develop extremely large combs, which gives the appearance in a dressed bird of its being old—a point against us. Furthermore, the nervous temperament of this cross (taken from the Leghorn) keeps them from making flesh, where other varieties would take on fat. I have run this cross where at fifteen weeks I could not force at least twenty-five per cent of them to weigh more than from one and one-half to one and three-quarters pounds. The Wyandotte-Brahma cross is almost ideal, being hardy, low-combed and not getting “stagy” at an early age, as with the Leghorn cross; but there is something to the feathered leg that is not inviting to the buyer. To see, a neat, yellow breasted broiler with feathers on the legs and feet will detract from its appearance more than one would think unless he has had the very fastidious market of Boston to cater to. The carcass of this cross is plump and yellow, only a small proportion coming so dark as to have black pin-feathers enough to injure the looks. To leave the Asiatics, we will touch on the Barred and White Plymouth Rocks. The rich yellow legs and bodies of these justly popular fowls, the quick growth, with not enough comb to hurt, gives us a broiler hard to beat—one of the worst faults being dark pin-feathers in the Barred, which are always somewhat objectionable in a broiler, for the reason that they are put on the market at an age when it is impossible to get them all out. I can not go through all the breeds, but will only take up 150 those I have honestly tried. This brings me to the last, the White Wyandottes. To be frank, I will state that I once thought of discarding this breed as not fitted for my business purposes, but after “summering and wintering” them I now feel that I would drop all other breeds before I would the reliable White Wyandottes. Let us note their faults. The first is that in some birds, more especially those bred for extreme whiteness, you will find they are not yellow-meated. At the same time I have seen the whitest plumage birds have rich, yellow skin, beak and legs. In buying stock look for yellow beak, and as yellow a leg as you could naturally expect at the time of year you are buying; that is, make allowance for a bird hived up in a yard, with sand to dust in, as it will surely bleach the legs to a flesh color. Another trouble you may have with the Wyandotte, as perhaps you would have with no other breed, is, when confining a large number in a small pen they easily take up feather-pulling. I think this is due to the peculiar way in which they feather. Some will grow to weigh one and one-half pounds before they have any but neck and wing feathers. Then the pin-feathers start all at once, making the habit easily formed by the “chicken act” of striking one another, or picking off any soft food that may adhere to the feathers. But plenty of green food will obviate that to a great extent, especially should that food be freshly cut clover. Of course it can not be obtained in winter, but well-cured clover rowen can. With care after this warning you need have no trouble in this direction. : ‘Regarding white skin, I will tell you how to overcome that by the use of the right kind of food, making it yellow enough to suit anyone. Now that we have seen the faults of the White Wyandottes in their worst light, let me extol their virtues as broilers, for they have many. The eggs being reasonably thin shelled hatch as well as any you can get. They mature as laying pullets a full month earlier than Plymouth Rocks, thus giving you eggs for early hatching. Their clean, yellow legs, low combs, white pin-feathers, and quick growing qualities, render them the best broilers I can put out. I have sold hundreds to dress eight ounces (one-half pound) and they were as round as a “butter ball,”’ this being one of their most important merits, that when properly fed they are at all times ready for market. They will stand all the forcing any chick can. If you try to raise Rocks and Wyandottes in the same pen, the experiment will prove to you this fact. Your Rocks will go “‘off their legs,’” while the deep-breasted, plump-bodied, smooth-skinned, active little Wyandottes will take their medicine five times a day and stand as straight as matches. Remember, it is generally the bird that can stand the greatest amount of food that makes the quickest grown broiler, and must be the bird you should adopt, as every additional day means additional cost from labor, coal and feed. I have written this article from the market point of view, that is, the sales-counter, as that is where our returns for broilers come from. Now, for one moment let us look at the matter as epicures. Take any one of the varieties mentioned above, and the Wyandotte, besides having the extra flesh om breast, as I stated before, caused by the great depth of breast- bone, is as juicy and delicious as any, and, in the opinion of “our folks,’’ more so, a dish luscious enough for a king. This is just my experience briefly set before you. If I have written anything that will in any way aid my brother poultry- men, I am satisfied. Do not be in hurry to cross your stock, as no one can make me believe again that there is anything gained by crossing, for there is no place that a thoroughbred of some variety will not fill the bill, and once you start to cross. where can you stop? The labor and skill of years come to naught when you destroy the integrity of a breed or strain by crossing ROASTERS, BROILERS AND CAPONS STARTING THE CHICKS We will say that we have decided on the variety that we will run; our eggs are as fresh as possible and of uniform size; we have put them into a well made incubator and with proper care have gotten out a good hatch, which came along promptly, so that the morning of the twenty-second day we find the chicks nicely dried off. We now get our warmed, cloth-lined basket, with a heavy cover or shawl to prevent them getting chilled. Right here I want to say, I believe more chicks “‘pass out,” to the land whence no wanderer returns, from getting chilled in moving them from a warm, moist incubator on a cold day into the brooder than most folks are aware of, and those little fel- lows you had such fond hopes of, but lost last winter with what you called bowel trouble or diarrhoea, were really chilled in being changed from their birthplace to their temporary home. Well, we have got them safely, we hope, into the brooder, which has been brought wp to the temperature of the incubator. Of course we have placed our board in slides about a foot away from and in front of the hover, so that the babies ean not get out in the long pen and not be able to find the way back and thus get chilled. Just bear in mind for the first week that to keep them warm is more essential than the kind of food. The first day of their lives in a brooder has almost passed and they have not eaten anything. Night has begun to come on and it is time to feed the hens, but let us first scatter down for the chicks a liberal supply of rolled oats, the white flakes of which will instantly attract them, and they are left to themselves. In the evening, as we fix the fire preparatory to locking up for the night, we look at them and are pleased to find them scattered all over the hover bottom, and their contented little “peep” is the last sound to fill our ears as we go out, and our mind is already filled with visions of juicy broilers and big breasted roasters and the perquisites thereunto attached. The next morning as we turn out at daylight to see our orphans we find them calling for breakfast. We touch up the fire and then a feed of rolled oats is given them with a dish of warmed skimmed milk. We use an old fruit can for this pur- pose with a notch cut in the edge. Partially filled with the milk and inverted into a saucer, this makes an elegant fountain for small chicks. A saucer not much larger than the can is best, then the chicks will not get “stuck up.” The milk on the down will stick them together as bad as paste would. Some of the little fellows that would not eat will drink, so you save them along until they will eat. That you will save more chicks by giving them warmed skimmed milk than by any system of feeding grain, is my way of thinking. We next powder some charcoal in a dry bone or shell mill, and this is put into a dish and set in for the chicks to eat. We have found this an excellent regulator for very young chicks, as well as older birds. We are now going to feed every two hours until our young charges are turned over to the butcher. Let it be done by the clock; you will then be more regular and can more easily even up the day. THE FIRST WEEK For the first week you are limited to rolled oats, millet seed (which is a semi-green food) and cracked corn, run through a mill to make it fine enough, then sifted to save the meal, which, of course, is wasted by throwing it on the ground. We have kept our milk before them all the time, and have carefully washed the dishes twice a day, noon and night, as nothing gets any more filthy than do these dishes if left uncleaned, the fat of the milk, dirt and droppings all adding their mite to make it so, more especially as the chicks get older. Some think skimmed milk expensive to feed, but after trying it you-will be convinced that the increased growth that comes from feeding it gives you a good profit on it, and this is what we should always think of when weighing the cost of food. The real question is, can I get enough quicker growth by using it and give me a profit on it? For feeding choice “fancy” chicks I have heard it contended that whole milk was cheap to feed. I have been able to buy all the skimmed milk I want for five cents a can, eight and one- half quarts to a can, and have used as high as twenty-six cans a day for broilers and roasters. As we have put into each hover not over fifty chicks, we must see that the sand is carefully scraped off the top as often as necessary, probably twice the first week, which will be in- creased each week until about the third, then we begin to clean them regularly every morning. We run the wheelbarrow into the walk and lift the hover, which is hinged against the parti- tion so it is easy to get at. We take a small dust pan, or, if you prefer, make a scraper, by driving nails through a stick, something like a rake only closer together. Then scrape or rake the top off, going quickly from one to another. THE SECOND WEEK For the first week we keep the board in the slides just forward of the hover, as stated before. Now the second week we will remove it and keep an eye on the chicks to see that they do not get lost or get chilled by staying away from the heat too long. For this. week we will feed about the same, only perhaps it will be well to try them on a little mash made up of one-third corn meal and two-thirds wheat bran, seasoned with salt and pepper, just the same as though we were to eat it ourselves. Mix well and add boiling water. Don’t put in enough to make it sloppy. Allow it to stand a short time, then feed. Not much will be eaten, but they will get so before the end of the week they will look for it, as you feed your soft and hard grains al- ternately. During the second week we have cracked some wheat in our mill, so have had that for an extra dish and a change, giving corn as a last feed generally. A good many feed cut or pinhead oat meal to little chicks. This we have found to be a trifle pasty or gummy, and have dropped it, as more will get stuck up around the vent when this is fed than when not. There is one thing that is absolutely imperative—that is, to get your chicks out on the ground. If it is bright and warm put them out for a few minutes when a week old. Do not let them stand “humped” up and shiver, but make them hustle around, by driving or by feeding a handful of millet seed. + After the second week they must go out every day unless it storms, no matter if it is zero weather. After you have tried it you will see how essential it is, for you can not keep them on their legs under such high feed in any other way. THE THIRD WEEK The third week we always settle down to our regular routine, to be continued until about ready to market. As we enter upor the duties of the third week we will now get our routine started and will see the chicks push along for the next five weeks, at which time we hope to see two-pound birds ready for the market, and get sight of the returns for our labor. The first thing in the morning is a feed of hard grain; then comes a feed of chopped raw potatoes. As the chopping knife and tray were too slow, we got a mince meat chopper, had a new disc made with larger holes, about three-eighths of an inch in diameter, and ran the potatoes through that, catching in a pan the first and last to. come out as it is nothing but water. The other is the pulp. Now take their feed dish and give each pen all they will eat. A little later we throw in a little cabbage, cut in strips, which they will seize and chase each other around for until it is all eaten. 151 SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEPING This constitutes all the green food they have, except-once in a while we may substitute onions in place of cabbage. We have gotten our mash made for the day, and as 9 o’clock has come we will feed our first feed of it for the day, only feeding what they will eat quickly. We feed on tin plates, about fourteen inches in diameter and a quarter of an inch deep with a wide fold at the top. These can be readly cleaned preparatory to another feed by scraping with the feeding shovel, which is a small shovel about four inches across, made of heavy sheet iron and a white iron handle. We have a pan to put the leavings in, if any. They go into the swill for the pigs. At 11 o’clock another mash, then the dishes are picked up, taken into the kitchen or cook room and washed. Again at 1 and 3 o’clock we feed the mash and if we have used good judgment we have had a hungry mob each feeding. If we have been liberal, we find they have left something each time and are not ready for their feed. When this is so just scant them until they clean up each time and do it quickly, taking care you have enough for all. You will find the number of plates will have to be increased, as the.chicks increase in size, in order that each may have a chance. At 5 o’clock or before dark throw down a liberal feed of cracked corn. We follow this bill of fare for about four weeks. As we have crowded thé chicks pretty well, by putting one hundred ina pen we must take éxtra precautions against filth. At about four weeks of age a day’s droppings is considerable on the floor of the pen so the floor is now raked over each day and the collections wheeled-out. For this we must use a:loop toothed rake. We have by this time found our fountains small and easily tipped over by the chicks, so we have adopted new ones hold- ing nearly two quarts, made of galvanized iron and cone shaped | on top, to keep the youngsters from roosting on them, and in- stead of the saucer we use a small deep agate pan, only a trifle larger than the fount. This we find to be very satisfactory as the chicks can not put their feet in it. ’ FINISHING OFF THE CHICKS To come back to the six to eight weeks old chicks. We must now think of finishing them off. We examine them, weigh a few, calculate how much flesh can be made on them in about ten days, for as broilers Boston has no: use for anything | over four pounds to a pair. We have fed so much bran that as we lay back the feathers on the breast we say, ‘“They ought to have more color.’ How can we get it? We cast about for a way to get this. We know corn will do it, but we lose time if we drop off from soft feed to hard. The chicks won’t grow as fast and we must turn them off as soon as possible to get the most profit from them. So we put into the mash all the cotton seed meal we can stir in and not make it “salvy” or “‘puddingy,” as we call it. With a little treacle added we have accomplished the result. We now have a fine yellow skin if we have not foolishly chosen a blue blooded carcass, but any yellow-legged variety will respond to the treatment. I would caution you against trying to feed this for too long a time, say more than two weeks, as the chicks will get cloyed by it, and you cannot hold their flesh, to say nothing of making any unless you keep their appe- tites ‘‘up to the clip.” This being such a high feed, it seems to become nauseous to them. One would find it difficult to keep them on their legs if it were fed from the first. We have now “forced” the birds for eight weeks and have obtained what we set out for, viz: Two-pound broilers at eight weeks. This has been successfully accomplished on our farm with White Wyandottes. We have not done quite as well with any other variety. They will stand on their legs where Plymouth Rocks would be rolling on their sides with the same feed. We put up two pens of 110 each, and at eight weeks they weighed two pounds each, and a portion two and one-quarter pounds each under this system of feeding and almost the same treatment. By continuing the regular feed we have made five and five-eighths pound roasters at fifteen weeks old. SHIPPING LIVE CHICKS TO MARKET One thing more before closing: If you ship poultry to market alive, and it travels twenty to thirty miles on the rail- road, feed the night before, not too heavy but some, as the birds will empty themselves in the night and on the journey. Give them all the water they will drink before they start on their funeral ride. You will thus save a portion of your shrinkage to nobody’s injury, but to their gain, I believe, as you help retain the juiciness of the flesh. Some of these hints have been gained in the expensive school of experience, but if any earnest, honest poultryman can get anything of assistance from them he is welcome. As one word of caution, do not attempt to raise your breeding females under suclr hot-house methods, because you will sacrifice your size through early maturity, as after a period of forcing as given above it is no uncommon thing for pullets to lay at sixteen weeks, and we all know that is enough to stop growth. You may start your breeders in the brooder, holding off forcing foods, but get them out as quickly as possible. The summing up of the discussion is, breed, feed and care. Let us not disdain to use the breed because it may be bred to “fancy points,’ as the fancy bas given us our best and most practical varieties, and the nearer a typical bird he have, of almost any breed, the better carcass we have. THE ECONOMY OF CAPONS AN ENGLISH POULTRY FARM WITHOUT FENCES WHERE ALL THE COCKERELS ARE CAPONIZ- ED—THE CAPONS BEING A GOOD _ PROFIT WITH THE SMALLEST AMOUNT OF OUTLAY FRANKLANE L. SEWELL, Artist Aside from the small runs connected with the long brood- ing house and a few yards for the favorite breeding birds, fences were quite needless, as all the cockerels for market stock were caponized, thus doing away with the need of separating the sexes. This is immediately recognized as a great economy. The farm was a large one mostly worked for hay and grain. The land not the richest, would hardly pay the 80 pounds (nearly $400) per year rent from the product of its hay and grain. The poultry added considerably to the income of the tenant who had made poultry quite a study in America as well as in England, having been a student at Kingston, Rhode Island. s THE MOVABLE BREEDING PENS The farm being devoted to hay and grain gave ample room for portable houses. Our visit was in haying time and the long swaths stretched out over the wide meadows on which quite a number of movable breeding pens were arranged. Those in the picture at the lower left hand are the shape favored on the place. They are of five-eighth inch tongued-and-grooved boards. Three by 6 feet on ground measurement and 4 feet high to the peak; three feet at sides with sliding door at center of long side. They are very simple but answer the purpose well. A small door at the end assists in gathering the eggs and the handles at each corner makes frequent moving about quite a simple 152 ROASTERS, BROILERS AND CAPONS matter. The yard 6 by 12 feet and 3 feet high is a light wooden frame. On top of each yard we noticed a large fork full of hay had been spread for shade and to the north side was attached burlap to shelter the fowls from the wind, which we were told is quite severe in cold seasons. As soon as the hay lands are raked clean of their crop, these houses will be used for young stock in the autumn and moved every day or two. The con- stant changing to new ground and forage benefits the birds and greatly adds to the productiveness of the ground, and we can safely assert from our own and others’ experience, that with good as should be, but it was found that when chalk was placed in the water fountains, the water was sweetend, and they were sure the fowls kept in better condition. We have seen a small proportion of slaked lime also used with beneficial results, especially in the summer weather when the fowls are apt to have bowel trouble. ; The poultry kept here was chiefly for market, and the White Plymouth Rocks and White Wyandottes used as breed- ing stock. An experimental cross that was expected to prove quite satisfactory, was that from a white Old English White AN ENGLISH FARM WHICH MAKES A SPECIALTY OF CAPONS The position of the fowl on the caponizing easel The small movable breeding pens that are ‘‘favored on the place” extensive poultry growing over these fields, they would double their yield of hay. One ton of hay to the acre was considered a fair crop a few years ago at this farm, upon Goring Heath over the chalk- hills, but we were assured that the land had been much improved by allowing the poultry to range on it. This is the same experi- ence that a New England Poultry Farm reported, only their hay crocs have more than doubled in the last ten years of ex- tensive poultry keeping on the land. The wells on this farm were not as deep, nor the water as A few of the flock of 200 ducks The operation of caponizing The long brooder house Legged Game cock with White Wyandotte females. They will make medium sized birds—the kind wanted on the London market—that will bring what will amount to about one shilling per pound, and they will have white skin, white feathers, and white flesh. In the early season the higglers, (or butchers) will give about the same price for a bird of three or four pounds weight as for one larger that would take longer and more ex- pense to rear, so of course the one cheapest to rear to that size is the best for the grower. In this neighborhood they tell the tenderness of young fowls by the suppleness of their wings. 153 SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEPING The breast bone test is considered the best. In Leadenhall you will hear the poultryman say “‘its breast bone is as soft as glue.” During the summer the young stock is being sold principally to the butcher in the nearby town and he is giving quite as much or more than could be obtained by sending them to London. We were surprised at the thin walls of the incubator houses, but were assured that the modern American type of incubators used were giving satisfactory results in these simple structures. The 300 feet long brooder house was furnished with sec- tional brooders. These were fairly satisfactory, but a change in the piping was in prospect ‘to make the circulation more perfect. After using the continuous house system a sentiment was expressed in favor of the separate outdoor brooder plan with brooders placed under cover of a small house in the early season when the weather is bleak or the ground apt to be slushy —then the small house would be ready for the well-grown chicks after they no longer require its protection, and it can be removed and used for younger broods. The chicks were kept in this long brooder house until some of them were old enough to market. They will do better now since the hay fields are swept of their product, and the young stock can occupy a greater part of the movable houses—can range over new ground, fill- ing up on insects and tender grass, for the frequent rains keep the hay fields green here. We noticed in the long brooder house an American made bucket spray pump which we were told was used for spraying the houses and small coops with coal oil. A box for destroying gapes was shown us in which the fowls sat upon slats above the fumes of carbolic acid heated to steam by two lamps. The upper story of the box could be made quite tight or opened at the side and the birds were watched through a couple of glass- lights at the sides to see that all was going well. It was claimed to be effective in destroying the gapes. We would want to ex- periment with this fumigator cautiously, however, at first. THE CAPONIZING TABLE OR EASEL We illustrate the style of caponizing table used on this place. It is really an “easel.” It holds the bird on the opera- ting board in the mcst convenient position of any we have seen, and the operator’s claim for it is that in this position the intes- tines of the bird fall away so that the parts worked upon are easily exposed when operating. The wings are held together above the bird’s back by a bent iron, rod or hook, and the legs placed together ‘through a loop in a strap.as ‘geen in the illustration, and both the iron rod ° and strap each ‘have a separate weight sufficient to hold the bird securely without bruising it. This easel has somewhat the ap- pearance of the table used at the South Shore Roaster Plant described in the Ret1aBLe Pouttry Journat, its chief difference being in the more upright tilt, which this expert operator claims he has found to facilitate his work. The illustration to the left shows quite plainly the position in which the bird is placed on the ‘‘easel.”” The feathers have just been plucked from the side of the bird through which the operator intended to work. The second photograph with the operator just starting to work, shows the convenience with which the work is done—a box or a table at the right of the . operator holding the few simple instruments used (which were of American make). The bowl was used to hold water with carbolic acid added to it. In this carbolized water the instru- ments were frequently washed and the knife dipped before each ncision was made. The time spent upon caponizing was con- dered a very small item compared to the labor of making and keeping up fences. The young males handled as capons are quiet and require-less feed to bring them to the marketable size. The capons do not fight and worry each other and no fences 154 being required to separate them from the pullets, they bring a good profit with the smallest amount of outlay. The young bird on the caponizing easel is one of the crosses from the White Old English Game Cock and a White Wyan- dotte female; the reversion resulting in this case showed some red plumage on the shoulders of the wings. THE FEEDS USED The principal foods we found at this place were, for soft feeds, barley meal and middlings with 12 per cent of meat meal or blood and bone, with some small grit mixed in. This was being fed to the growing stock, and in the evening, wheat and dari to the younger chicks and considerable maize to the older chickens. Maize (corn) was being also fed freely as an evening feed to the old stock at the time of our visit, as they explained— “We are glad to get them into good flesh, or even quite fat be- fore molting—after they commence to drop their feathers well we will hold up on the fattening foods and feed a better diet for laying condition. This would consist mostly of good sound oats.” CAPONIZING—HOW TO DO IT FULL AND EXPLICIT DIRECTIONS FOR CAPONIZING Every poultry raiser has each year a large number of sur- plus cockerels. These he finds it hard to dispose of at a profit. In the market he can seldom get for them (in their natural state) more than one-half or two-thirds of what he can readily obtain for pullets and hens. It is a fact, however, that when properly caponized and brought to a marketable size, he can obtain for these same cockerels, now developed into capons, twice as much as he can get for his pullets and hens. A Chicago commission merchant, with whom the writer had a talk in June, reported capons selling at twelve to eighteen cents per pound in that city during the season, and the demand strong. He was then handling capons bought from Illinois, Ohio and Indiana that weighed ten, eleven and twelve pounds. They were killed when from ten months to a year old. DIRECTIONS FOR CAPONIZING From twenty-four to thirty hours before performing the operation, select such cockerels as you intend to caponize (these should be from two to four months old), confining them in a clean and airy coop or room without either food or water. The best time to confine them is at early morning, as their long fast will then end about noon of the following day, at which time the operation is best performed. Should the day be cloudy or wet do not caponize them, but let the opera- tion go until you have a bright and fair day. It is necessary that you have all the light pos- sible in the matter. If it be a cloudy day and you decide not to caponize, the birds may be given a little water and food if necessary, but ~ it is much better to avoid this if possible, as it is very desirable to have their intestines quite empty, thus allowing their testicles to be more readily seen, besides giving the operator much more room in which to perform his work. Lay the bird on the operating table (this table is fully described elsewhere in this article) on its left side. Wrap the cord (Fig. 1) twice around the birds legs, above the knees. In making one wrap only, there is danger of the birds kicking themselves out of the loop. Fig. 1—Cord for Holding Fowl ROASTERS, BROILERS AND CAPONS Hook the other cord once around both his wings close to the body. To the opposite end of these cords attach a half brick, or some other weight, letting them hang over the sides of the table. This holds the bird securely. Have all your instru- Le FIG. 2-KNIFE FOR MAKING CUT ments in readiness, that you may work quickly. Thread the canula (Fig. 5) with a strong and long horse-hair or fine steel wire (we think wire the better), letting the wire form a loop at the curved end, and extend well out at the other end. Now, after slightly wetting the spot, proceed to pluck the feathers from the upper part of the last two ribs and just in front of the thigh joint. Pull the flesh on the side down toward the hip, and when the operation is finished the cut between the ribs will be entirely closed by the skin going back to its place. While holding the flesh back with the left hand, with the right hand take the knife (Fig. 2) and insert it (cutting edge away from you) between the last two ribs, cutting first down, and then up a little way, following the direction of the ribs, making the cut not over one inch long. Cut deep enough to go through. skin and flesh, being very careful not to go so deep as to cut the intestines. There is little danger of doing this, however, if they are empty, as they will be from the bird’s long fast. The danger of cutting the intestines is when they are full, as in this state they press against the ribs. ‘ Should the cut bleed, stop a moment, let the blood clot on the thin skin covering the bowels, and then remove it with the spoon forceps. Next take the Spring Spreader (Fig. 3), press it between the thumb and finger until the ends come together, insert- ing the ends in the incision, with the spring end toward the bird’s feet (see operating table). Upon looking into the cut a thin tissue-like skin will be seen just under the ribs and enclosing the bowels. Take a sharp hook (Fig. 4) and pick the tissue open, so that you may get in- to the bird with the instruments. The breaking of this skin does not cause the least pain to the bird. One of the testicles will now be brought plainly to view, lying close up to the back of the fowl. Sometimes both testicles are in sight, but this is not generally the case, as the other one lies beyond and more on the other side of the bird, the intestines prevent- ing it from being seen from this opening. The testicle brought to view is enveloped in a film. This should be brought away with the testicle. Some people, in caponizing, tear the skin open and then take the testicle out. The danger in so doing is, that if this skin is left, there is danger of causing a ‘‘slip.” Now comes the only dangerous part of the whole operation, getting hold of and removing the testicles; but with a steady hand and plenty of light not one bird in fifty should be lost. Fig. 3—Spring Spreader ——————eee FIG. 4~SHARP HOOK TO OPEN FILM-LIKE SKIN Attached to the testicle and lying back of it is one of the prin- cipal arteries of the fowl, and this, if ruptured, is sure to cause death. It is here that the canula (Fig. 5) proves of great ad- vantage. The hair (or wire) being small and very fine, is easily slipped between the testicle and artery without injury to either, and a clear, clean cut made. Take the canula in the right hand and adjust the hair (or wire) in it so that a loop about one-half inch long will extend from small end of tube, leaving the two ends of wire extending far enough out of the open end to secure a good hold. Insert the end of the tube that has the loop on it very carefully and slip the loop over both ends of the testicle and entirely around it, hold end of tube close down to the tes- ticle. When the testicle is entirely encircled by the loop, take both ends of the wire (or horsehair) which comes out of the other end of the tube with thumb and first finger, holding it FIG. 5-CAPONIZING CANULA tight, and draw up on it carefully but firmly, being particularly careful to have the loop around testicle. Keep the end of the tube very close to testicle all the time. If drawing up on the wire does not at once cut testicle, slightly turn from one side to the other (but not entirely around), then the testicle will come off. After removing it, carefully examine inside of bird to see that no piece is left in, and also to see that no foreign substance, such as feathers, etc., has gotten in. If any have, it is necessary to remove them, for if allowed to remain, they are liable to cause inflammation. Sometimes a feather or part of the testicle may drop among the bowels; if this occurs move bowels around with probe (Fig. 6) until the object is found, then remove with spoon forceps. When the operation is per- formed, remove the spreader at once and the skin will very soon slip back over the cut and heal in a short time. Never sew the cut as it will heal just the same as any other small flesh wound. The bird can now be turned over on its right side, cut made and testicle removed in exactly the same manner as just des- cribed for the left side. Both testicles may be taken out with the one incision, but to the learner we would say this is attended with more difficulty than the two incisions. The other testicle being situated so far over on the other side, there is more diffi- culty in reaching it, besides danger in piercing artery running back of first testicle. To an experienced person there is no danger in removing both testicles from one incision, but to those o-—— FIG. 6—CAPONIZING PROBE who have not that degree of confidence given by practice we would recomménd the two cuts. The bird recovers just as quickly as though one cut were made, and the operation is performed equally as quick, if not quicker. If both testicles are removed from one cut, the lower must always be taken out first, for if the top is first removed, the small amount of blood that may follow will cover the lower one, keeping it from view. A “slip” is neither capon nor cockerel. He is much in- ferior to the former and a great deal worse than the latter. The “slip” is caused by not entirely removing the testicles. The smallest fraction left in the bird will grow again with no benefit to the fowl. 155 SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEPING THE BEST TIME TO CAPONIZE Fowls hatched early in the spring make the finest capons. They can be cut before hot weather comes, which is a great ad- vantage although no ill results follow the operation at any time in the year. The bird should be from two to three months old (not over six months,) and weigh not less than a pound to a pound and a half. The size is equally as important as the age. June, July, August, September and October are the months gener- ally taken for caponizing, for the reason that spring chickens arrive at proper age and weight for market during the months of January, Febru- ary, March, April and May, at which times there is the greatest demand for them in the cities, and the highest prices secured. That capons are in our markets at certain seasons only, is because the demand is far in’ excess of the supply. The time will be when capons may be obtained the year around. Fig.7—The above Photograph was Engrav- ed from Life, Illustrates the Method of Holding Fowl Ready for Caponizing. OPERATING TABLE The top of an ordinary barrel (see illustration) meets all requirements of a table, admits of the birds being easily secured, brings the birds to the proper height with the operator; in brief, makes as good a table as can be desired. It costs nothing, as there is always an empty barrel lying around, or one that can be easily emptied. / Our first advice would be, “Keep cool and make haste slowly.” If you are rather tender-hearted, read the directions over carefully and then try your hand on a dead fowl. All surgeons do this in the first place, and probably it would be as well for you to follow their example. Have plenty of light. It is impossible to perform the operation unless you have this. After your first performance of caponizing you will be sur- prised at its simplicity. Always keep your instruments in per- fect order. Before using the knife see that the edge is sharp, and that the other tools are as they should be. After beginning the operation of caponizing there should be nothing to hinder you from going right ahead. FEEDING CAPONS The question is often asked ‘‘How are capons to be fed?” After caponizing give the bird all he will eat of soft food, and let him have plenty of water. Caponized fowls begin to eat almost immediately after the operation is performed, and no one would think for a moment that a radical change had been made in their nature. Now leave the bird to himself, as for the time being he is his own doctor. It is well to look him over two or three days after the operation, as in breathing, the air sometimes gets under the skin causing “wind puff” or a sight swelling, in other words. Simply prick through the skin at the sides with a sharp needle, gently pressing at the same time, when the air will be expelled and the capon relieved. Within ten. days from the operation the wounds will be healed over. A day or so after caponizing the bird should be allowed to run at large, treating him just the same as any growing poultry would be treated. 156 KILLING AND DRESSING CAPONS FOR MARKET The capons should be allowed to grow at least one year old. By this time they will have attained an imposing size. Some keep them even longer than a year. While this is optional with the raiser, yet we should not advocate killing them under one year old if they. are being raised for market. There is a great difference between the dressing of capons and an ordinary fowl. When the capons are ready for market, select such as you propose killing, and confine them. Keep them without food or water for about twenty-four hours before killing, that their crops may be entirely emptied. Now get ready your place for killing and dressing the fowls (if you have conveniences in the chicken house this will do quite well, or the woodshed, or any cool outhouse), and drive two heavy nails or wooden pins about one foot or less apart in an overhead beam. Make two nooses of strong string, each noose long enough to hold one each of the legs, and have the capons hang low enough to pluck with ease. Have a weight of two or two and one-half pounds attached toa hook, and when the bird is killed, fasten this hook in his lower bill after you hang him up for plucking. The weight holds the bird in position while picking and renders the operation much easier. Next procure a table to dress the fowl upon, and make a frame on the same principle as a small box without the ends and cover. In this you lay the capon, back down, to remove the intestines. When everything is in readiness take your capon and sus- pend him by the two legs from the nooses. Catch hold. of his head, and with your poultry killing knife cut vein at back of throat, through the mouth. Never cut this from the out- side. Immediately upon cutting’ vein, run point of knife through roof of the mouth clear into the brain. This operation causes what is termed “dropping the feathers,’ making them come off more easily. As soon as the knife enters the brain the bird loses all sense of feeling. Begin plucking at once. As to the style of dressing, the feathers are left on the wings up to second joint, the head and hackle feathers, also on legs half way up to the drumsticks, all the tail feathers, includ- ing those a little way up the back and the long feathers on hips close to tail. These feathers add greatly to appearance of the bird when dressed, and are also a ready marker from other fowls in markets. Never cut the head off, as this is a disting- uishing feature of the bird. A capon may readily be identified among a thousand cockerels, as the comb and wattles cease to grow immediately after caponizing is performed. Wash head and mouth well with cold water, being careful to remove all blood. A capon should not be torn in plucking. There is no danger of this happening if proper care is taken. Place the plucked fowl back downwards in the box frame already deseribed. Cut carefully around the vent and pull out the intestines. These will be found covered with fat, which, as they are pulled out, should be pushed back. When the end of the intestines is reached, insert your finger and break this off, leaving every- thing else in. As may be expected the fat will be found very heavy around the opening, and if slightly turned outward will soon become hard, which will give a rich appearance in this portion of the bird. Let the birds hang in a clean, cool place until thoroughly cold. For packing use a new box of the re- quired size, lined with white paper (any good, clean paper will do). Pack the birds in solid, back up, being careful not to bruise them. Your birds are then ready for market. With a bird not torn and the feathers left on, you have a fowl which for inviting and “taking” appearance it is impossible to equal. FIG. 8-POULTRY KILLING _ KNIFE TABLE POULTRY AT THE DAIRY SHOW, LONDON, ENGLAND 1—The successful fitter of five pairs of First Prize Table Fowls at the-Dairy Show (114 pairs competing) and his first prize specimens. 2—Right, First Prize Winning Goose. 3—Table Ducks and Geese. The nearest pair of Ducks winners of First Prize. 4—The central pair winners of Special for Best Pair of Table Fowls and winners of the Gold and Silver Medal. CHAPTER TEN MARKET POULTRY AND EGGS HOW TO PREPARE POULTRY FOR MARKET SELLING STOCK ALIVE AND DRESSED—METHODS OF DRESSING—SHIPPING CRATES AND BOXES—HIGH PRICES OBTAINABLE FOR FANCY HIGH GRADE POULTRY AND EGGS—FEATHERS ARE VALUABLE FRED HAXTON HE sure road to success in raising poultry for market purposes is quality. It is immensely more profitable to produce a small number of birds and sell them at high prices than it would be to raise a large number’and sell them at ¢ the ordinary market rate. From five to fifteen cents a pound premium is paid for strictly fancy dressed poultry—in fact, the best goods command almost their own price, and are seldom to be found in the open market, generally being sold by the poultryman to fine hotels and clubs and markets in exclusive neighborhoods, without allowing a middleman a share in the profits. To illustrate the adage that “fancy goods bring fancy prices,” it may be stated that a club in Chicago pays 50 cents a dozen the year around for its eggs, and takes all the capons a large poultryman can raise at 40 cents a pound. After making his name on a box of poultry a synonym for quality, the market poultryman will find no difficulty in dispos- ing of all the stock he can raise at a good premium. Private trade pays best, if a regular supply can be given. In nearly all markets, however, the best dealers will agree to pay a certain bonus on every pound of fancy poultry. The requirements of practically all the markets for poultry are similar. SHIPPING LIVE POULTRY A standard poultry crate is used in all the large markets, and to secure highest prices the birds should be shipped only in these. The fowls look much better in crates of uniform size, and are more easily packed in freight or express cars and handled in the markets. These coops may be bought at a low price in any large poultry market, or may be easily constructed by the shipper. The crates should be 4 feet long, 30 inches wide, 12 inches high for chickens and ducks, and 18 inches high for tur- keys and geese. The corner posts are of 2 by 2 inch stuff and two of these also are used in the middle of the coop. Six pieces of 2 inch stuff 12 inches long and six pieces 30 inches long are cut and nailed into three rectangles, one for each end and one for the middle of the crate. Ten-penny nails are used. Half- inch boards are nailed on the bottom, which is made tight. Strips 4 inch thick and 2 inches wide are nailed on the sides and top, about 1} inches apart. Two strips are left loose on the top for putting in or removing poultry, or a hinged door is applied. Laths are nailed around the coops at the ends and in the middle to keep the strips from coming off. The coop for broilers should be 10 inches high and 2 feet wide. These crates are both light and strong and being open prevent the smothering of the birds if they are not crowded too tightly in the crates Care should be taken to ship birds of about the same size and color together. A crate of fowls of uniform color and size will bring two or three cents a pound more than would a case of black, white, speckled and large and small chickens mixed in- discriminately. Young fowls should not be shipped with old ones, for then the chances are that the whole shipment will be sold as old stock. Most of the loss in shipping live poultry is due to suffoca- tion, some crates arriving on the hottest days containing three to a half dozen dead birds. In hot weather do not put more than 100 pounds of adult birds in a coop, but in cold weather 120 pounds may be shipped. Of spring chickens when small, 50 to 60 pounds may be sent in the regulation coop’ and when large, 70 to 90 pounds. It is best to ship the hens, pullets, cockerels and cocks in separate crates, but when a shipper has not suffi- cient birds, mixed lots may be sent. It is seldom profitable to send to market live spring chickens weighing less than a pound, as the supply is immense and the market is often glutted. It is better to send these dressed as broilers. Chickens weighing a pound and a half to two pounds sell best early in the season; late in the spring two-pound weights are preferred. In the early spring when young birds first come in, some small ones will sell well, but as soon as the stock begins to be plentiful the small chickens are not wanted. Along in June and July, when chickens are bought to place in cold storage, two pounders are preferred. As a general thing, two-pound stock sells best the year around. Live poultry should be shipped so as to reach the market from Tuesday to Friday. As receipts increase toward the end of the week, enough stock is left over to supply the trade on Monday, and late in the week dealers prefer to sell the fowls at a sacrifice rather than carry them over Sunday and have the trouble and expense of feeding them. Monday, is usually a poor day to sell poultry. Just before shipping, the birds should be fed and watered liberally, whole corn and wheat being the most sustaining foods. If the trip is to be a long one it is a good plan to provide a few handfuls of grain in a corner of the crate. Some shippers tack half a cabbage to the top of the coop. The large dealers have special cars for shipping live poultry. The coops are built right into the coaches, the sides of which are covered with wire netting. A car will hold 5,000 birds, and an attendant travels with the shipment, sometimes as far as from California to New York, to feed and water the stock. These cars are rented to the dealers who pay a certain rate in advance of the regular freight charges for the use of them. The rental for a thousand mile trip is $42, and at the end of the journey the birds weigh more than they did when they started. Five hundred of these cars are in use on the leading railroads and more are being constructed. , Express and freight rates on live poultry are low. The coop weighs about forty pounds, and is returned when empty for 10 cents, nearly all the railroads making this special rate. Shipments of around 400 miles generally cost about $1.25 a 158 MARKET POULTRY AND EGGS hundred pounds, by express, and considerably less by fast freight. ‘Tags with the name of the consignee and the shipper should be attached to both ends of each coop so that if one is torn off the other will remain. It is also advisable for the shipper to stencil his name and address on each crate, to insure its return. Most of the live poultry is shipped from April to November, the bulk of the supply in the winter months being sent dressed. This is because of the fact that during hot weather poultry will spoil unless carefully packed in ice, and many shippers find it difficult to obtain clean ice at reasonable prices. In fact, the poultry market generally is comparatively dull in the summer months, the first touch of cold weather adding several cents a pound to the prices. DRESSING CHICKENS Dealers everywhere give notice that all poultry should ‘be well fed and watered and then kept from 18 to 24 hours without food before killing. Stock dresses out better when it is well watered and appears much brighter. Full crops injure the appearance of the bird and the contents are liable to sour. When this happens only low prices will be paid. CAR LOADED WITH POULTRY One of the special poultry cars loaded with live fowls destined for the large city markets. Kill chickens by bleeding in the mouth or opening the veins of the neck, and hang by the feet until properly bled. Leave head and feet on and do not remove the intestines or crop. For scalding chickens the water should be near the boiling point but not boiling (160 to 175 degrees Fahrenheit). Pick the legs dry before scalding; hold by the head and legs and immerse and lift up and down five or six times; if the head is immersed it turns the color of the comb and gives the eyes a shrunken ap- pearance, which leads buyers to think the fowl has been sick. The feathers and pin feathers should then be removed immedi- ately while the body is warm, very cleanly and without break- ing the skin. Next “plump” by dipping ten seconds in water nearly or quite boiling hot, and then immediately into cold water. Hang in a cool place (or better place on shelves in the shape you wish them to appear when cooled—hanging draws the breast muscles and makes them look thinner when cool and harder to pack) until the animal heat is entirely out of the body. To dry pick chickens properly, the work should be done while the chickens are bleeding; do not wait and let the bodies get cold. Dry picking is much more easily done while the bodies are warm. Be careful and do not break and tear the skin. The plumping is very essential. Do not singe the bodies for the purpose of removing any hair or down, as the heat from the flame will give an oily and unsightly appearance. Remove pin feathers thoroughly, but if it is impossible to take them out without tearing the skin cut them off with a sharp knife. Dry picked poultry generally commands a higher price than scalded stock, and is safer for shipment in warm or doubtful weather. Scalded birds are less attractive than those dry picked, because unless the scalding is done with great care and by an expert the skin usually is discolored in places and becomes puffy after a day or two. Chicago accepts both scalded and dry picked stock, generally, however, paying a premium for the latter. Boston insists on dry picked, and the better trade in New York and other large cities will have nothing else. “Shaping” the birds is an essential to securing fancy prices. This is done by placing them in a trough 10 inches wide, with an angle of the opening about 70 degrees. The chickens are put in the trough back down, and the flesh is forced forward onto the breast'’and the whole body made compact. This will make even a scrawny bird look plump and a fine one will undergo a. great transformation. On top of the trough a thin board is placed and on this a weight. After the fowls have been in the shaper a few hours and all the animal heat has disappeared they are ready for packing. It is important that the bird be thoroughly cooled before shipment, and if ice is placed on the chickens in cooling them—which is inadvisable but sometimes necessary in hot weather,—all the moisture should disappear. before they are removed for shipment, unless the birds are to: be shipped in ice. Do not cool the fowls too rapidly. DRESSING TURKEYS Kill in the same manner as chickens, but drypick while the turkey is bleeding. Do not wait until the body gets cold. Be careful not to break the skin and do not remove the head. Markets differ as to whether the neck and wing feathers should be left on, but most require that they be untouched. The tail feathers come off with a twist; a straight pull will ‘‘set”’ them. All old and heavy gobblers should be marketed before January 1st, the demand after the holidays being for small, fat hen tur- keys. From the middle of October to the first of the year is the best period for selling/turkeys, although early in the season there is a great demand for “baby turkeys,” as they are called, which weigh about five pounds apiece and bring high prices— sometimes as great as a full grown turkey would fetch later in the fall. DUCKS AND GEESE When not dry picked, scald in the same manner as chickens, but remember that more time is required for the water to pene- trate and loosen the feathers. Do not try to pluck the plumage just before killing for the sake of securing a higher price for the feathers, as this gives the skin an inflamed appearance and causes injury to the sale. Leave the feet on and do not pick the feathers off the head; also leave the plumage on the neck for 2 or 3 inches. Do not singe the bodies, as this spoils their appearance. After they are picked clean the fowls should be held in’scalding water ten seconds, for plumping, and then rinsed off in clean, cold water. Fat, heavy ducks always bring by far the best prices, and it does not pay to ship thin birds as they can be fattened in two or three weeks and bring several cents a pound more. CAPONS Only large, heavy fat capons are wanted. A thin capon will bring no better price than an old roaster, but prime, fat capons command the best of prices the year around and dealers in every city complain that they cannot secure enough to supply 159 SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEPING the demand. Capons always are dry picked. The feathers should be left on the neck from the head two-thirds of the way down to the shoulders and likewise on the first two joints of the wing. The feathers also should be left on the tail and half way up the back, and on the legs from the knee joint two-thirds up the hips. ‘ In fact, only the feathers around the body itself are removed, and there is less shrinkage in dressing capons than in any other class of poultry, the only loss being the blood and the body feathers. Care should be taken to keep the capon DRESSING ROASTING FOWLS Feathers fall to the floor, and are swept up constantly, dried, and sold, being a source of considerable revenue. The five men shown at the table have dressed 700 fowls in one day. clean, and paper should be wrapped around the head to prevent it from soiling the plumage of other birds when they are packed in boxes. BROILERS Nearly all the broilers are shipped dressed, as the trade is conducted only in cold weather, and is at its height from March to June. Those who make the largest profits, however, en- deavor to place the birds on the market as soon after the first of January as possible. From the latter part of November until after New Year’s the bulk of the demand is for large fowls for roasting and frying, but after the holidays broilers come to the front. Some of the largest growers find a steady demand every week in the year, by contracting to furnish a stated supply to large hotels or restaurants, or to dealers who handle the best class of stock. For the live poultry trade, chickens averag- ing a pound each are in greatest demand early in the year. These never sell for less than $3 a dozen, and often bring nearly a dollar apiece. The prices decline gradually after the first of March, but remain high until well along in the summer. Ten dollars a dozen often has been paid for live one pound birds in February. After April 30th, most of the chicks are sold by weight, and hundreds of thousands of broilers are reaching the dealers by that time. The advice of the largest commission men is: Hatch broilers early. November is not too soon to begin, and the first shipped bring the fancy prices. In May it is best to send broilers weighing one and one-half to one and three-quarter pounds, which are worth $6 to $7 a dozen. Broilers should be dressed in the same way as chickens. ROASTERS The raising of “soft roasters” has become an independent industry, and properly prepared birds weighing more than six pounds being in great demand from the first of January until the middle of the summer, and again from September on to Thanksgiving. These command prices almost as high per pound as broilers, and are simply young birds, generally from six to nine months old—put through a special fattening process to make them plump and tender. They are dressed, dry-picked, wrapped in parchment paper and packed a dozen or a half dozen in a box. The supply of these usually is contracted for, and comparatively few are found in the open market. From 20 to 35 cents a pound is paid throughout the season. SHIPPING DRESSED POULTRY hk, ‘Even though a bird is properly dressed, it will reach market in bad shape unless care is taken in packing it. Fancy stock always sells better when shipped in neat boxes holding one or two dozen birds each. The dealers have agreed on certain sizes of boxes for differ- ent grades of stock, and these only should be used. Basswood or any other material except cedar may be used for the boxes; cedar taints the flesh. Each bird should be wrapped in parch- ment paper, which makes it keep longer; ordinary butchers or wrapping paper, on the other hand, hastens deterioration. Two layers of fowls are put in a box, six facing one end and six the other. The regulation box for broilers is made of 4 inch lumber, and is 16 by 16 by 4 inches, inside measure. This will hold a dozen birds. Care should be taken to assort each lot so that the broilers put into each individual box are nearly uniform in size, color’and, weight. Lots should range from 15 to 18 pounds per dozen, or 19 to 22 pounds, or 23 to 26 pounds. These average ranges of weights follow naturally as the season advances. The largest broiler dealer in the West says: ‘‘Boxes should be paper lined, at least, and each broiler should be wrapped in paper if the shipper wants appearance to count in the disposition of his stock. Buyers like to see broilers packed breast up. All culls and off stock should be packed separately and so marked. For roasting chickens the inside measurements of the box is 18 by 8 by 30 inches. This will hold twenty-four roasters, in DRESSING FOWLS IN A LARGE CHICAGO ESTABLISHMENT The men work at tables and each dresses his own fowl. They strip the bodies first, then the legs, and then the neck. Machines do not work well on scalded poultry. ‘These men are members of a union, and make good pay. two layers. Uniformity in size, color and weights of roasters packed in each box is absolutely necessary for attainment of the best results. A good three-layer box is 24 by 18 by 12 inches. but the two-layer package is most favored by the trade. For adult fowls the standard box is 20 by 18 by 12 inches. 160 MARKET POULTRY AND EGGS This will hold 24 birds. For turkeys the standard box is 26 by 24 by 15 inches. This will hold twelve young toms, or six young toms and eight hens, or sixteen hens. On the outside of each box should be stencilled the shippers’ name and the gross, tare and net weight of the box with the grade of the fowls it contains. The largest poultry dealers in the world, Swift & Co., pack their stock in boxes and grade it as follows: Weight per doz. Small broilers, 20 to 25 pounds. Large broilers, 26 to 30 pounds. Small fryers, 31 to 36 pounds. Large fryers, 37 to 42 pounds. Small roasters, 43 to 48 pounds. Medium roasters, 49 to 60 pounds. Large roasters, 60 pounds and over.” : As poultry packed in boxes cannot, of course, be iced, the shipments should be sent in refrigerator cars. Some successful poultrymen who have a trade direct to the families pack the birdsin paste- goods on consignment he becomes the shipper’s agent, and any attempt to defraud his principal is punishable by fine or imprison- ment. Not so if he buys goods outright, agreeing to pay for. them at a stated price. In the latter case the shipper’s only recourse if he fails to receive the contract price is a civil suit, resulting in a judgment generally worth no more than the paper it is written on. For this reason dishonest merchants fre- quently offer to buy outright. Too great care cannot be exer- cised in these matters. When a direct sale is made, except to a well-known house of good reputation, the safest method of pro- cedure is for the shipper to consign the goods to his own order, making draft through bank or express company and attaching it to the bill of lading from the railroad company, properly endorsed. The bank or the express company will then present the draft and surrender the bill of lading only on payment, so that the commission merchant cannot obtain the goods until he has paid for them.’ Five cents on the dollar is the usual commission for selling poultry. board boxes, each holding one bird. Common stock, which constitutes the bulk of the shipments, is sent in bar- rels. Three or 4 inches of ice, broken to the size of a fist is put in the bot- tom, and on this is packed a layer of poultry with the heads down, the backs up and the feet in the center of the barrels. Another layer of ice 2 or 3 inches thick is put on top and then another layer of chickens, ducks or geese, and ice, and so on until the barrel is full. A fifty-pound cake of ice is put on top and over all is ap- plied a piece of burlap, kept in posi- tion by the top hoop. The poultry ‘should not be frozen before being packed as frozen stock is worth two or three cents a pound less than that not frozen. HOW TO SELL A private trade brings the best returns. If the poultryman is near a city of good size he will have no diffi- culty in disposing of his products at prices far above those paid in the open market. Next to a family trade—or preferable to it if the business done is a large one—is the supplying of the best hotels and restaurants, or clubs. If direct sales are impracticable, as often is the case because of the grower’s distance from the market, arrangements can be made with a city dealer or commission man to take all the birds raised. Capons, fancy roasters, broilers and other fine stock generally are contracted for, some shippers being paid from 5 to 10 cents a pound above the market price the year around. If the goods are sold through commission merchants, care should be taken to investigate the reliability of the merchant, as a dangerous number of “fly-by-night” concerns are in the business to fleece everybody with whom they deal, fleeing with the gains. This practice is so common that the United States government has issued this advice to shippers: ‘Beware of being tempted by higher market quotations than are sent out by well estab- lished dealers. High quotations are the favorite bait of the imposter.” “There is also a legal point that is well to bear in mind: In most, if not all, states, when a commission merchant receives 161 BD ss BOXES AND BARRELS USED FOR PACKING DRESSED POULTRY FOR{SHIPMENT SAVE THE FEATHERS The poultryman overlooks an important source of profit. if he neglects to save the feathers. The value of the feathers is: an important reason for dry-picking the birds, as dry-picked body feathers from chickens bring from 18 to 19 cents a pound, while scalded feathers are worth only a cent a pound. The demand is steady the year around, the following being the average prices per pound: Prime Live Geese, white-- 0.02... 60 @ 62 Mixed Grey Feathers_ a2... eeee cece 43 @ 44 All Grey. 38 @ 42 Old Geese, according to quality _2_...........--- 20 @ 40: Mixed Geese and Duck_ : @ 37 Duck Feathers, white... 02-2 ceececeeecececeeeeee 42 @ 44' Mixed 32 @ 33: Old Duck, according to quality__o.0. 00 15 @ 35 o™ 3 SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KErrinu Chicken body dry picked, prime__....-..------------------ 034 @ 043 GOW: OF MUS Ys 2 eset dele eee nee eaten ue 02 @ 04 Dry but quilly @ 03} Dry picked, quilly and damp-................---.---------- 01 @ 02 Sealded 01 @ White Chicken body, dry picked_....................-..-- 18 @ 19 Chicken and Turkey body, mixed_...........2222...2--2------- @ 04} Turkey Body, dry and choice----.. @ 064 Green and little damp--............ .-. 01 @ White Turkey body, dry, prime-- 60 @ 70 Tail, choice and clear-_-..-...4--.--------2-e20 eee @ 40 Tail, mixed with skirt feathers. ---............ --.----- 20 @ 25 Wing, from first two joints_--..... 7 2 @ 19 Wing, tail and pointers_-_...........2...2.. 2-2 -------- @ 17 Wing and tail clear... ieee ieee eee eee ee @ 25 Wing and pointers @ 13 Pointers- @ 07 In picking turkeys, says the Shippers Guide, save all the feathers that grow on the tail of the turkey; also those on the two joints of the wing next the body. The pointed one-sided quills that grow on the outside or tip of the wing sell at a low price; and should be kept separate from the others. It would be best to keep each. kind separate. Lay quill feathers straight, in as A BOX OF DRESSED POULTRY OPENED TO SHOW ~— METHOD OF PACKING light boxes as possible; do not stuff them into bags, as it breaks them. Body feathers should be shipped in sacks. Before packing weigh your boxes with the covers, and mark the weight in plain figures on the side of the box. Chicken body feathers should be forked over to allow the animal heat to get out of the feathers; they should be well dried out before shipping as the dampness mats them together, and they sometimes arrive heated and mouldy. Be sure and have no quill feathers mixed in with the body feathers. They can be shipped in sacks. Dry picked feathers command best prices. White chicken body feathers, dry picked, command big prices, but must be kept dry and clean. Feathers should be spread out on a floor to dry for if shipped at once they may become musty. Burlap bags are commonly used for shipping. PROFITS IN COLD STORAGE Whenever the supply of poultry in any market exceeds the demand, the surplus is put into cold storage where it is kept until prices are high again, often being left in the coolers seven or eight months. In addition, hundreds of thousands of dollars are invested each summer in poultry to be put in refrigerators until next winter. Rather than sell stock at low prices, the poultryman often will find it profitable to place the birds in storage warehouses until the demand is strong. The warehouses. will take small consignments as well as large ones, and the rates are extremely low. One-fourth of a cent per pound is charged for the first sixty days or less, and thereafter an eighth of a cent a pound per month. All poultry put in storage must be packed in boxes. The ordinary rate for cold storage of eggs is 40 cents per thirty dozen case for the season from March 15th, to January 1st, on eggs stored prior to June 1st. On eggs stored on or after June-1st the rate is 10 cents per case for the first month and five cents a case for each month additional. The storage ware- house will advance from 70 to 80 per cent of the market value of the goods stored. It is estimated that 1,800,000,000 eggs or one-tenth of all the eggs laid in the United States are placed in cold storage every year. The regular storage season for poultry is from September 30th to May Ist, and for this period a special rate of one-fourth to one-third of a cent a pound per month is made by most of the warehouses. A dozen broilers can be kept in the coolers from October to May for only 2 cents apiece. All poultry remaining in the coolers more than two or three weeks is frozen immedi- ately upon arrival and is kept as hard as arock. The tempera- ture is kept at from 28 to 30 degrees, but the initial freezing is done with the thermometer at 12 to 15 degrees. FATTENING POULTRY FOR MARKET Fattening poultry by machinery has become an important industry in the last few years. Thirty-eight ‘feeding stations” with a capacity of from 3,000 to 10,000 birds each are in opera- tion in the middle west, and many machines are in use in eastern states. The machine consists of a four-gallon receptacle mount- ed on a tripod and so arranged that when the operator pushes a treadle a quantity of semi-liquid ground food is forced through a rubber tube into the crop of the chicken, the operator hold- ing the tube down to the bird’s throat. The birds are kept in small coops arid their crops are crammed full twice a day for two weeks. As a rule, they are kept in the crate three weeks, but fed from troughs the first week. Some fatteners do not use the machine at all. Crate-fed chickens are always in great demand at high prices. The crates in most common use are made of lathed or turned strips in tiers. A thin chicken weighing four pounds will by cramming be made six or more pounds in two or three weeks. If it was worth 12 cents when thin, it is worth 20 cents when crate-fed, per pound. The ordinary cost of putting from two to three pounds on the weight of a chicken has been found to be about 15 cents, and the average increased selling price from 75 cents to a dollar. This accounts for the enormous growth of the poultry fattening business. At the Canadian Experiment Station 365 chickens fed in crates gained an average of 2.35 pounds each, and the average cost of food consumed was 5.27 cents per pound of increase in the live weight. This low cost of increased weight was secured when ground grain cost $1.20 a hundred pounds and skim milk 15 cents a hundred pounds. The foods used were ground oats mixed with sour milk, skim milk, or buttermilk, and this was given in troughs in front of the crates, no machine being used. PRICES TO BE OBTAINED One dollar for a broiler, $2.50 for a roaster or capon, $3.50 for a dressed turkey, $2.00 for a goose, $1.00 for a duckling— these are not exceptional prices for good stock. The value of market poultry has increased steadily since 1901 and will con- tinue to remain high. The consumption of poultry has in- creased enormously. With a private trade of high class, excellent prices are ob- tained the year around—from 5 to 10 cents or even more per 162 MARKET POULTRY AND EGGS pound for roasting fowls and others that are sold by weight, being paid as a premium. Some of the most successful poultry- men with private markets place each bird or pair of birds in pasteboard boxes made for the purpose, and sell the chickens “by the box’’—not by weight—at $1, $1.50 or multiples. of 50, according to the kind of stock. For those who must depend on the open market the best plan is to write to the commission merchant or dealer and secure from him a list of the average prices per month paid for all kinds of stock, and then arrange to have the birds ready for sale in the month when prices aver- age highest. Heavy roasting fowls, capons, turkeys, geese and ducks are in greatest demand and fetch the highest prices from November to February not so much of this class of poultry being consumed during warm weather. In the summer, too, it is difficult to ship dressed poultry because of the trouble of icing it, and for this reason most of the stock from April to October i is shipped alive. The great increase in the price of poultry during recent years may be shown from the following quotations for turkeys. From time to time these reports contain special instruc tions for killing, dressing, packing and shipping poultry, and we have drawn on this source for a portion of the information given in this article. In the best eastern markets, New York and Boston, and on the Pacific coast, dry picked poultry has the preference and commands the best prices. In the middle west and western markets as well as in some southern ones scalded poultry is required and is in greatest demand. This we believe to be due chiefly to the fact that dry picked poultry to present an attractive appearance requires the services of an experienced picker. The west and south is still comparatively new country in the production of high-class market poultry and outside of some of the large packing houses, experienced dry pickers are few in number and hard to find. In the east where high-grade dry picked poultry is in greatest demand and scalded stock almost “goes begging” for a customer, there are many experienced men who make killing and dressing market poultry a profession. The prices paid for their services vary in different sections of the country. 1906 1905 1904 1903 1902 1901 1900 1899 | 1898 1897 | 1896 1 to18 |17 to19 | 16 to174/17 to18 84 to 12 74 to9 9 .tol10 8 toll |10 to113| 8 to 124 8 to 12 to19 |19 to20 | 16 to 17} 18 | 9$to 143| 74to9% | 84t010 | 8 toll | 9$to12 | 8 to124, 9 to 134 to 17 19 |16-to17 |15 to18 /|10 to15 to 12 8 to12 8 to13 94 to 124; 8 to13 | 13 124/14 to15 | 11 to12 |12 to13 9 to124| 64to 8 7k to 10 8 to10 8 to 12 9 8 to12 to 124/14 to15 |11 to12 /10 to12 94 to 124} 6 to 84| 6 to 9 7 to10 6 to 9 6 to 9 7 to 10 to 124 ig to15 |10 to12 |10 tol2 {10 to12 54 to 74 to 7 6 to 9 5 to 8 5 to 7 6 to 9 to 124 to15 |10 to114]10 toll | 11} to 12 6 to 74! 54to 7 7 to 8 6 to 8 6 to10 7 to10 to 18 15 | 12 tol17 11 | 12 to124/ 6 to 8 6 to 74| 74to10 6 to 10 7 to10 8. toll to16 |15 to16 | 12 toJ4 | 10 toll 13 7 to 9 7 to 8 8 to12 7 tol 7% to 10 8 toll 2 to16 |13 to17 12 | 11 to14 |11 to13 7 to 8) 6 to 9 83 to 10 7 toll 8 to10 7k to 9% | 164 to 21 116 to18 |15 to18 |/15 to18 | 10 to16 7 to10 6 to104{ 9 toll 8 to114/ 8 to104/ 9 to 114 Besehaish one desteziet je ehSssveatiee fae ae 16 t0174'14 to17 !15 to174!13 to18 9 tol1l4! 8 to 94! 9 to10%! 8 toll 8 to12 | 104 to 114 These are for ordinary birds and when two prices are given the bulk of the stock was sold at the higher figure. Prices quoted for January, February, March, November and December are for dressed birds, and for the rest of the year, for live turkeys. The figures are those paid to the country shippers; and not those which the stock brought when bought by the butchers.. Fancy turkeys were disposed of, as a rule, at 5 cents or more per pound above these figures, which were supplied by Howard, Bartels & Co., official statisticians for the Chicago butter and egg board. Broilers should be marketed as early in the year as possible, before the market is flooded with them. A dollar apiece often is brought for the best stock. Roasters find a good market throughout the year, except in the hottest part of the summer, and specialties, such as ducklings, young geese, ‘‘baby’’ turkeys, crate-fed poultry, or machine fatted fowls, are always in demand at high figures. KILLING AND DRESSING MARKET POULTRY DRY PICKED POULTRY IS PREFERRED IN EASTERN MARKETS—HOW TO KILL AND DRY PICK—SOME ADVICE ON SHIPMENTS— WHERE SCALDED POULTRY IS IN DEMAND— REQUIREMENTS OF VARIOUS MARKETS P. T. WOODS, M. D. Methods of killing and dressing market poultry vary in different sections of the country and it is necessary for the poultryman to make himself familiar with the existing condi- tions and the requirements of his particular market center. This is easily done if he will obtain the regular market bulletins from one or more of the commission dealers in the city in which he intends to dispose of his output. ‘very easily torn. In nearly all cases they are paid on the piece-work plan, receiv- ing a certain amount per bird for all that are dressed, the prices ranging from 3 to 6 cents per head for chickens and from 4 to 8 cents per head for ducks. : In the vicinity of New York City and Philadelphia there are a number of famlies who devote the greater part of their time to dry picking market poultry and they derive a very comfortable-income from this source. At Vineland, New Jersey, which is in the heart of a broiler, roaster and duck raising section, there is a family consisting of father, mother, two daughters, a son and wife, who make a busthess of travelling about the country dressing poultry for the growers in that section. These . pickers visit different plants at regular intervals, the men doing the killing and rough picking and the women serving as pin- featherers and finishers. It is no uncommon thing for one of these pickers to rough pick 200 broilers in a day without tear- ing the skin, and it should be remembered that broilers are When dressing full grown birds that are reasonably free from pinfeathers these pickers will finish a considerably larger number. EARNINGS OF A SKILLED PICKER In the July 1905 issue of the ReviaBLeE Pouttry JouRNAL we told the story of an expert picker who picks South Shore Soft Roasters and made the remarkable record of earning $23.00 one week, $33.40 the second week, $34.80 the third week, $36.44 the fourth week and $38.56 the fifth week, in five successive weeks’ work dry picking soft roasting chickens at 4 cents each. The record is all the more remarkable because in this case the picker finished the birds, removing all pinfeathers, cooled them in the water tank, hung them up to dry, and cleaned up his part of the picking room at the close of each day’s work besides helping weigh up the finished product when the same were packed for shipment, and he worked no longer hours than the average working man. This is an exceptional case but there are many good pickers in the east who regularly earn from $15.00 to $25.00 per week. 163 SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEPING Duck picking is a more tedious’ process but experienced dry pickers are able to earn a comfortable income. The aver- age price paid is 7 cents per duck, and a good picker can finish from 40 to 60 ducks per day. In the August RELIABLE POULTRY JOURNAL we called attention to the fact that on one of the large eastern duck ranches the pickers were earning from $2.80 to $4.20 per day. As all of this work is piece-work a skilled workman can usually earn very satisfactory pay, all depending on his ability. LEARN TO DRY PICK—IT PAYS Dry picked poultry is becoming more and more in demand in the western markets and as the call for high-grade poultry increases and the market poultry industry develops in this section, there will be greater opportunities for earning good pay in this line of work. The enterprising young man with a liking for poultry work will soon begin to take up dry picking and he will be among the first to reap the benefits. In the opinion of the writer the dry picked fowl when dressed by an expert, presents by far the most attractive appear- ance, and if we are to believe the testimony of many epicures and reliable housekeepers, dry picked birds are much more to be desired as a table delicacy than the scalded product. Some may consider this difference an imaginary one but it is only necessary to compare the expertly dressed dry picked carcass with the scalded, parboiled, or partially cooked unattractive ones to acquire a decided preference for the dry picked article. Aside from this the dry picked bird will keep better, reach market in better condition, and none of its naturally fine flavor has been injured by contact with hot water, usually dirty and often decidedly repulsive. Even when the scalding is done by an expert the practice is an objectionable one and results seldom justify the means employed. Dry picking is a comparatively simple matter, easily learned, and once the operator has acquired a little practice, there is no more need of tearing the bird during dry picking than there is after the carcass has been skillfully scalded. HOW TO KILL AND DRY PICK Experienced dry pickers claim that the only trick in getting the feathers to come out easily is in the method of sticking. If the bird is killed properly the feathers will come out easily without tearing the skin. If the killing or sticking is not done as it should be or if the bird is choked too much the feathers may cling as if they were clinched, and it will be practically impossible to get them out without tearing the skin. Nearly every experienced picker has his own particular method of killing and dressing. Along the south shore in Massachusetts the pickers for the most part prefer to sit while working and hold the birds in their laps. It is a practice of some to stick the bird through the throat immediately beneath the angle of the lower jaw or mandible, then give the bird a sharp blow on the back of the head with a blunt stick or billy, the shock of the blow resulting in a nervous spasm that loosens the feathers. The most expert, however, have discarded this method for the nicer operation of sticking the bird through the mouth, allowing the knife point to penetrate the base of the brain, accomplishing the same result in loosening the feathers in a much more satisfactory manner. The writer learned the New Jersey method of dry ;icking and much prefers it to all others, and will endeavor to describe this method of killing and dressing in detail. When learning to dry pick the beginner will get much more satisfactory results if he will practice on adult fowls until he acquires the knack of it. Select adult birds that are well feathered and practically free from pinfeathers, and the opera- tion will be a comparatively simple matter. After one or two trials the beginner should be able to remove all of the feathers in a few rapid movements of the hands. Make preparations for dressing the birds by having every thing as convenient as possible. Provide two barrels placed against the wall of the room or building in which you intend to operate, one for blood and waste feathers and the other for the feathers which are to be saved. Have a good sharp knife with a medium-sized blade; an ordinary pocket knife will answer. The chickens to be killed should be placed in coops within easy reach of the picker. The operator should roll up his sleeves and put on a large apron, We prefer to use a bran sack tied across the breast, just beneath the arms and again around the waist. This covers the clothing and is thick enough to afford ample protection from blood that may be spattered. A soft cap should be worn to keep the feathers out of the hair. Drive a nail in the wall above the center of the barrel in- tended for blood and waste feathers at a point a little higher than the head of the picker. Provide a loop of stout cord from 6 to 10 inches long and fasten this to the nail. Make a noose in the lower end of this cord to be slipped over the fowl’s feet to hold it firmly by the legs. When the fowl’s legs are secured in this noose the bird should hang close to the wall with its head on a line with the operator’s left arm when held in a horizontal position with the elbow against the side of the body. This position will be found to be the most convenient. If the bird is hung either too high or too low it will be awkward to handle. After a few trials the picker will be able to judge exactly what point is the most convenient for him to hang the birds and the exact length of the cord he should use. Do not hang the. bird from a beam or pole in the center of the room where it can swing both ways, and do not hang the bird in a similar position fixing a weight to the upper mandible to hold it steady. Such practice makes the operation an awkward one and pre- vents getting the best results. With the bird hanging against the wall in the proper posi- tion as described above it cannot get out of reach should it struggle and slip from the hand, and it is always under control. The picker should stand facing the wall with his knees braced against the barrels. This gives him a purchase so that the bird may be held firmly when it struggles. The killing knife may be stuck into the wall or placed on a shelf near by. Some pickers prefer to have it tied to a cord fastened about the waist. STICKING Grasp the neck of the fowl with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand. Draw the hand gently downward until it strikes the angle of the jaw forcing the fowl’s mouth open, but be careful not to choke it. Hold the mouth firmly open with the third finger. Introduce the knife into the throat and with a few quck motions of the knife up and down sever the large arteries at the side of the neck just below the ear, so that the bird bleeds freely. Now hold the knife at an angle with the bird’s bill pointing toward the back part of the roof of the mouth in a line with the eye. With a rapid movement drive the knife through the roof of the mouth into the base of the bird’s brain and give a quick half turn of the blade. This causes paralysis, renders the bird insensible, practically kills it, and a quick sudden shudder will pass through the fowl indicating that the feathers have loosened. ° Adult birds should be stuck much more heavily than squab broilers or broilers. As a rule with small chickens the twisting in motion of the knife should be very slight. If the sticking is too heavy or too light the feathers will not loosen properly, It is, however, a very simple matter and easily acquired with a little practice. 164 MARKET POULTRY AND EGGS BEGINNING TO PICK As soon as the fowl is stuck the operator should begin at once to remove the feathers, taking them off as rapidly as pos- sible. Grasp the wings with the thumb and first two fingers of the left hand, holding the neck of the bird between the third and little finger, stretching the body a little downward without choking the bifd so as to keep the noose and string taut. This gives the operator full control of the bird so that he can hold it firmly. Next with two or three quick motions with the right hand remove the large stiff wing feathers; also the stiff feathers at the shoulder joints. In removing the large wing feathers they should be grasped with the extended fingers of the right hand and pulled out with a quick downward movement. The stiff feathers at the shoulder joints are pulled upward. Now grasp with the right hand the tail feathers and re- move them all with one quick twisting motion. Pass the right hand rapidly down the back from the rump to the neck, remov- ing all the feathers with the thumb and forefinger pulling them downward. The bird should then-be shifted to the right hand and the left hand used to pick the soft feathers of the abdomen. These can all nearly be removed at one time by grasping a hand- ful of them in the left hand and making a quick turn of the wrist throwing the thumb outward. Next remove all the feathers from the sides of the breast pulling towards the fowl’s back and a little downward on each side. Remove the balance of the feathers on the breast with a downward motion. If the sticking has been properly done these feathers will all come out easily without any danger of tearing; in fact, in adult birds they seem almost to fall out. Again transfer the bird to the left hand grasping it firmly by the head and quickly strip the feathers from the neck with the thumb and finger of the right hand, pulling them a little down- ward. The feathers on the wings and thighs may be easily removed with the thumb and forefinger of either hand. It only requires a quick eye and a little practice to become an expert picker in a short time. It will surprise the beginner to see how rapidly and how easily birds can be dry picked by following this plan. Good pickers will often have half a dozen birds stripped or rough picked before the first bird is done flut- tering. Some years ago the Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals investigated this method of picking in the state of New Jersey, and after going carefully into the subject and witnessing the operation performed by~a number of expert pickers the society’s agents were satisfied that there is no more cruelty in this method of killing than in any other; and that the suffering on the part of the bird is reduced to a minimum. It is doubtful if the bird experiences any considerable amount of pain, since the cutting of the large arteries is so quickly done that it could scarcely be felt and when rapidly followed by the sticking into the brain the bird becomes at once insensible to pain. Sticking through the side of the neck and clubbing on the head with a piece of wood is much more brutal and by no means as satisfactory as the method we have described. REMOVING THE PINFEATHERS The pinfeatherer will find it more convenient to hold the bird in the lap and should be seated on a stool or box conven- ient to the rough picker, or if the picker is to do the finishing as well as the roughing, he should remove the bird from the noose, seat himself in a chair and finish the bird in this position. All long hairs and pinfeathers should be removed by the aid . of the fingers and a blunt knife. The picker usually begins at the rump, cleans every thing along the back to the neck, then goes over the breat and abdomen, the wings next, and last the thighs, carefully cleaning up the whole fowl so that the carcass is free from pinfeathers and looks clean and attractive. If there are any large tears in the skin these are cleansed and sewed up by the pinfeatherer. In pinfeathering a blunt half-bladed case knife will be found the most convenient to use. Should the crop be full the skin at the back of the neck is split and the crop worked out through the opening and removed. As soon as the birds are finished they should be thrown into cold water to cool. After all animal heat has left the body they are taken out, the heads and mouths thoroughly cleaned, the feet and legs scrubbed with a brush to remove all dirt, and the carcasses hung up on racks to dry. On some plants it is customary to have two cooling baths, one simply of cold water to remove the first heat from the carcass, and another, containing water and chunks of ice, into which the birds are afterwards thrown to remain during the hot weather, until it is time to ship them to market, and in cold weather until all the animal heat has left the body when they are taken out and hung up to dry. DRY PICKING DUCKS Dry picking ducks is a much less simple matter and re- quires more skill and patience. A good-sized shoe knife with a half square end made as sharp as a razor is used for sticking in a very similar manner to that described above for chickens. After sticking, the duck is then given a sharp blow on the base of the skull with a round piece of hard wood similar to the police- man’s short billy. The bird is held in the lap, its neck between the knees, and legs and wings firmly grasped in the left hand and the feathers quickly removed with the right hand, with a sharp movement from the tail toward the head. In some of the more tender parts the pulling is done in an opposite direc- tion, or toward the tail. After the coarse feathers and larger pinfeathers are re- moved the carcass is rubbed over with a little water and shaved with a sharp shoe knife having a concave edge. As stated above the requirements in dressed poultry differ with the various markets. BOSTON, PROVIDENCE, NEW YORK AND PHILADELPHIA MARKETS There is very little difference in the demand of the eastern markets, Boston, Mass., Providence, R. I., New York, N. Y., and Philadelphia, Pa. Here dry picked poultry is always at a premium. Beginning with the new year there is an ever increasing demand for good-sized soft roasting chickens. Weights most in demand are those which will dress approximately 10 pounds to the pair. Plump, soft-meated, quick-grown, yellow skinned stock are in the greatest demand. Late-hatched chickens suitable for broilers and weighing from 3 to 43 pounds per pair will also command good prices early in January. By the middle of January squab broilers or individual chickens that dress about 12 ounces to one pound each, are in good demand and usually command good prices from the middle of January to the first of May. Soft roasters bring the best prices between June 1st and July 15th. The lowest prices for roasting chickens prevail between October Ist and November 1st. Broilers com- mand the highest prices between the middle of April and the middle of June; the lowest prices during August and September. Ducks bring the best’ prices from May 1st to June 1st and the lowest prices during July and August. Fowls asa rule bring good prices throughout the year, but lowest Prices prevail during the latter part of the summer. Poultry for these large eastern markets should be starved for. 12 to 24 hours before killing so that the crop and entrails will be empty. They are sold with the heads on and entrails in. If the crop contains food it must be removed. For Boston, Providence, New York, or Philadelphia all poultry should be 165 SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEPING dry picked and thoroughly bled. They should not be stunned by pounding them on the back of the head as this causes the blood to settle and injures the sale. Scalded poultry will not “bring more than half price in New England markets. PACKING FOR SHIPMENT IN HOT WEATHER Strong and sound barrels are best for ice packing poultry for shipment during hot weather. These barrels should be well washed before using and only clean ice should be used. Place a good layer of broken ice on the bottom of the: barrel, then a layer of poultry beginning in the middle and packing in a circle with heads down, backs up and feet toward the center, then alternate layers of ice and poultry. Fill the barrel to within 6 inches of the top, taking care to have ice between the poultry and the staves of the barrel. Fill the top of the barrel with large pieces of ice and cover with clean burlap, and mark with brush or stencil. If to be shipped a long distance put in an extra large piece of ice on top. If properly packed the poultry can be on the road fifty hours without injury. Always ship by express in warm weather. COLD WEATHER SHIPMENTS During cold weather poultry can be shipped either by freight or express. It should be entirely cold but not frozen before it is packed. Boxes make the best packages and should be lined with paper and packed so closely that the contents cannot move. Never use straw for packing and never wrap the dressed poultry in paper. Mark the cover of the package distinctly with the kind and quality of the contents, the gross weight and the correct ' tare in plain figures. Have your own address on the box and see that the package is properly addressed to the merchant to. whom you are shipping. Never ship any goods to arrive on a holiday. Always place a duplicate invoice in every package and notify the dealer by mail of shipment, sending the original invoice in your letter. Yellow meated, yellow-legged, plump poultry is most in demand in the eastern markets and when cleanly dry picked and neatly packed commands the top prices. BALTIMORE MARKET Scalded poultry is preferred in Baltimore, Maryland, market and sells best with head and feet off. The birds should be scalded carefully and feathers removed without breaking the skin. The scalded poultry should be plumped after picking by dipping it for a few moments in hot water, not quite boiling, and then throwing the birds into cool water of the natural temperature where they should remain ten to fifteen minutes. When this is done cut off the head and feet and hang the car- casses up to thoroughly dry off. Be sure that all animal heat has passed out of the body before packing for shipment. Ship in plainly marked packages as advised above, packed tightly so that the flesh will not become bruised in transit. There is a light demand in Baltimore for dry picked poultry. BUFFALO AND CHICAGO MARKETS In Buffalo, N. Y., and Chicago, Ills., scalded poultry is in greatest demand and commands best prices. Care should be taken not to scald the heads. For scalding use water that is as near the boiling point as possible without boiling. Pick the legs dry before scalding. Hold the bird by the head and legs, immerse in the hot water, and lift up and down two or three times. Be careful not to immerse the head as it turns the color of the comb and gives the eyes a shrunken appear- ance, leading the buyer to think the fowl has been sick. Re- move the feathers and pinfeathers without breaking the skin and plump the bird as directed in preparing them for Balti- more market. Birds are sold with heads and feet on and en- trails in (undrawn). If crops contain food they should be re- moved. Expertly dressed dry picked poultry is becoming more and more in demand in these markets. ST. LOUIS MARKET A prominent dealer in St. Louis, Mo., says that careful handling and fine appearance of the stock are half the selling. When everything is plenty a fine lot of poultry will find favor and sell readily, while rough stuff will lie around and may possibly have to be sacrificed at a discount. The St. Louis market prefers scalded poultry carefully picked and well plumped. The birds should be bled in the mouth and are sold with heads and feet on, undrawn, the crops removed if they contain food. SAN FRANCISCO MARKET Dry picked poultry is in demand in San Francisco, Cal. No poultry is scalded for this market as buyers will not purchase it. The entrails are always left in and never drawn. Crop is only removed when it contains food. Heads and feet are always left on. Poultry should be packed in barrels or small boxes weigh- ing from 100 to 200 pounds. Large plump poultry is always in the best demand. This market differs from the eastern, southern and mid-western markets, as the birds are customarily sold by the pair or by the dozen. 166 CHAPTER ELEVEN TURKEYS, DUCKS AND GEESE CARE AND MANAGEMENT OF TURKEYS TURKEYS FROM SHELL TO MARKET—USE OF TURKEY HENS TO HATCH AND RAISE THE POULTS — TREES THE BEST ROOSTING PLACE — NESTS —CARE OF SIT- TING HENS— FEEDING POULTS— LIBERTY TO ROAM —STANDARD WEIGHT MRS. HATTIE A. WELD, Greely, Kans. HENEVER I talk, write or even think turkey, it is a White Holland Turkey. Why? First, because to me they are the most beautiful. Any one who can look upon a flock of fifty or one hundred turkeys all white as snow—except the black beard and the beaks, legs and feet which are varying tints of pink, any one, I say, who can look upon such a flock without admiration, has no eye for the beautiful. Second: Their quiet, gentle disposition always wins friends for them. , Third: They dress well for the market. We now have them bred to a size that can compete favorably with any va- riety of turkeys. But I will not stop now to give all their good qualities. WHEN STARTING, BUY BIRDS, NOT EGGS Better begin with turkeys instead of just buying the eggs. A chicken hen will hatch the eggs just as well as a turkey hen and she will do her best at raising the poults; but she does not wander far enough to give them the food they require and therefore they always lack the size of the turkey-raised birds. And besides, the lice that they get from the chicken hen are so much harder to fight and seem to do the little ones so much more harm than the regular turkey lice. kind is a benefit, but of two evils choose the lesser. Buy your breeders in the fall, if possible. November is the very best month as the turkeys are in range condition, not fattened in the least, and all you have to do is to keep them growing and in good breeding condition. One feed a day is plenty. I prefer to give that at night as this makes them range after cattle or other stock and gives them necessary exercise. But at five o’clock (as the days shorten, feed at four), I put a little wheat or ‘oats in a trough and call them, that all may go to roost satisfied. Have oyster shell, grit and charcoal where they can get it any time. Also plenty of water as the turkey does not like to depend upon snow any more than other fowls do. We yard our chickens in October and leave the range for the turkeys as the two do not feed well together. THE BEST ROOSTS AND NESTS With us the best roosting places are the tree tops and the colder the weather the higher the turkeys fly. They should have a shed open to the south where they may go during stormy days, if they wish. And they will ‘greatly appreciate some poles for perching under this shed. _ To be sure neither’ The first of February is none too early to prepare nest- ing places. We get salt or sugar barrels and scatter them around in the orchard, laying them down with open end to the south, driving a couple of stakes at each side to keep the barrel solid. Cover with brush and old hay, having the opening partly hidden. Now place a cozy nest in the barrel and a couple of china nest eggs and we are ready for Mrs. White Holland. Drive the hens accidentally (?) past these hidden (?) nests and see if you do not enjoy the performance of the hen that is about ready to begin laying. Her neck stretches out, she looks on this side and on that, goes partly in, comes out, goes in again, turns round and round and right then and there apparently concludes to deposit twenty or twenty-five eggs in that fine place at laying time. Or, if there is an unused stall in the barn, the turkey hen likes to lay there too. One year I had three White Hollands sit in the same manger upon 46 eggs and they brought out 45 poults. The only trouble was when one hen raised up to turn her eggs, her neighbor upon left or right would stretch out her long neck and with her beak roll under herself as many eggs as she had time to steal. So I had to fasten boards between the three hens. PROTECT THE PULLETS At mating time if your male bird is a large, clumsy, old bird and his mates are pullets, you may save yourself some unpleasant work by putting gloves upon him. Just get the heavy duck gloves that cost 25 cents for three pairs. Put them upon Mr. Tom’s feet sewing fast above the spur with heavy thread. Leave plenty of room for his toes to clinch round the perch, being especially careful to leave room for the small back toe. The thumb and extra finger of the glove I bring up over the top of the foot and sew securely. Last year my old 35 pound tom wore out three pairs—but I did not have a hurt pullet while he was wearing them. If one of the females does happen to be torn, anyone by using a little grit, a fine’ needle and some waxed, white silk thread can perform the necessary surgical work. First, cut off the feathers near the edges of the wound; next syringe the wound with warm water containing a weak solution of carbolic acid. Take short lengths of white silk and wax it, bring the torn skin up in place and hold it there. Now take a stich in the two edges, draw close together and tie. Cut your thread and take another stich. It does not take long to sew up a bad hurt and the turkey never moves. It will heal readily and hardly leave a scar if well done. A good healing ointment may be used to hasten the work. , 167 SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEPING MANAGING THE CONTRARY LAYER Sometimes White Hollands begin laying in February but usually it is from March 15th to April Ist. If the weather is cold gather the eggs soon after they are laid and stamp the date upon each. Then you can set the oldest first each time. Turn the eggs once a day till you set them. If your hen does not fancy any of the nests you provide let her choose one for herself as she will not go far, and being “white” it is almost impossible for her to go to her nest with- out your seeing her. If it is an inconvenient place for her to sit, do not worry. Let her lay her clutch of eggs and begin sitting. I usually remove her to the nest where I want her to sit the first night she is broody, but it would be safer with some to wait till the second night. I have barrel nests arranged in a large, grassy yard under some cedar trees, both for shade and because I imagine the odor from the cedar to be a lice pre- ventive. Carry your hen gently, talk to her and put her in the barrel carefully. Let her see the half dozen nést eggs you have given her and press gently down upon her shoulders, if she does not want to sit down, rub some of the eggs upon her bare breast, continuing to press her down gently. Sometimes it is necessary to bend her legs back carefully and hold her down for a few minutes, talking to her all the time. I have never had but one turkey refuse to sit upon the nest and that time I think it was because of my impatience. When the hen settles down fasten her in securely, leaving plenty of room for ventilation, and slip away. Do not dis- turb for two or three days (except to peep in to see if she is sitting). Now she is both hungry and thirsty, take her off gently and away she will go for the corn and water, and you want to have a good big water dish for Mrs. Sitting Turkey always wants to stand in water while she drinks. I do not know whether it is to allay the fever in her feet and legs or to take the stiff feeling out. I simply know her likes and cater to them. Let her drink, eat her corn and pick some grass. This gives you time to exchange the nest eggs for good ones, provided your hen has been sitting all right. I should like to say right here that I often give the eggs to two chicken hens and let them sit upon them for a couple of weeks while the turkey finishes her clutch of eggs. In this way you get your poults a couple of weeks earlier and the turkey makes just as good a mother as when sitting her full time, only you must be sure she is down to business before taking the eggs from the chicken hens. Dust your turkey with a good louse powder two or three times while she is sitting and also have a good dust place in her yard. Do not use the powder too near hatching time. CARE OF TURKEY MOTHER AND POULTS Fifteen or sixteen eggs are enough for the turkey. She can cover more all right, but as nearly every egg hatches and the little ones grow so rapidly, if she has a larger brood she can not hover them so well in our heavy spring rains. And it does not take 28 days for them to hatch. On the 26th day you will have turkeys. Now do not disturb your hen. The little ones come out of a small hole and the egg shells never slip over each other as chicken egg shells do, so there is no need to interfere and it always makes the hen ner- vous to be bothered, especially if she is a pullet. If the mother turkey does not bring off her brood the sec- ond day, I generally take her off in the afternoon. Reach in, get hold of her legs, lift her straight up and out of the barrel. Then take the little ones out. If it should be a cold, wet time leave the turkey undisturbed till the third day. Take some of the shells from the nest, remove the inner membrane, crush the shell into tiny bits and scatter for the little ones to peck 168 at. They will not eat much till they get so they can stand well. It is not best to try to rush them, as the old hen knows best how and when to teach them to eat. ‘Their first real food is cottage cheese, made from clabber milk, with a tiny bit of pepper added but no other seasoning. Scatter this on a board near the hen, and she will hold pieces of the cheese in her beak for the babies to take. This is why I begin with the cheese as it seems their nature to look to their mother’s beak for their first food. Feed only a little at a time. Here is where so many make a fatal mistake. You must feed sparingly for a few days but feed often. Every two and one- half hours is my rule. Their second feed is a few pinches of popular brand of chick food. I scatter it upon a nice smooth place, and sit down to watch the little ones eat. I pick up first one, then another. Beginning thus early they never have any fear of you, and my hens having been handled from their youth up fear no danger for their little ones from me. For a couple of weeks I alternate the cheese and chick food, giving three feeds a day of the chick food and two of the curd. Sometimes if we have continued rains so the little ones can not range, I omit the curd as it has a tendency to irritate the bowels if not bal- anced by green foods and insects. LET THEM ROAM Now, here many turkey breeders will differ with me but I give the hen and her flock their liberty at once, but usually take her some distance from other fowls as little turkeys follow anything that is moving. At night the mother will take her young back to the nest and she will get the last one into the barrel, without help usually, and she never crushes one as a chicken hen sometimes does. I say I give the turkey hen her liberty—and so I do—but I guide her to the pasture or a corn field or some place where the grass is not rank. And I do not let her out of the yard till the dew is gone from the grass. After the little ones are four weeks old three feeds a day of the chick food are plenty and probably the old hen has begun to wander too far to come up except for dinner and supper. Now, too, begin to mix whole grains of wheat and kaffir corn in with the chick food. In this way you will teach them to eat the whole grains. Right at first they will not like it as turkeys do not like to change from one grain to another. By the time they are six or seven weeks old I am putting oats in, too, and the chick food is omitted. Some complain of oats but I have found no trouble as my turkeys always have grit, shell, etc. I think oats one of our best grains for making size. SHADY YARD AND OPEN SHED A week or two, at most, is long enough to let the turkey roost in the barrel. Remove the barrel and: she will select a place near by for her brood. I think my big shady grassy yard has paid for itself many times. The fence is four feet high and no varmint has ever troubled the turkeys there. There is a low shed at one side, opening to the south, that is covered with roofing paper so it is warm and rain proof. Rainy nights I put my turkey hens under this shed but during fair weather they want all out doors to sleep in. If a heavy rain comes up in the night it only takes a few minutes to gather the little ones into my big apron, and take their mother under my arm and run to this shed. I suppose there is little use in doing this as a turkey seems to know instinctively to choose a roost- ing place that is a little higher than the surrounding ground and her great wings are just like the roof of a house to shed water but I can sleep better if the flock is under the shed during a bad storm. I keep them roosting in this yard just as long as I can, but finally they go to the trees. TURKEYS, DUCKS AND GEESE INSECT POWDER FOR POULTS T have not said a thing about dusting the little ones for lice. Try to put a little insect powder on their heads, under the bill along the throat, and along the quill feathers of the wings, once a week'at first. Later I do this just whenever I can. During continued rains is your opportunity to fight the lice and you must do it, too, for at such times the turkeys are deprived of their main weapon against lice—their daily dust bath. Some use lard, vaseline, etc., but whenever I have tried greasing little turkeys I have always had a funeral, so I stick to the insect powder. SIZE DEPENDS ON EXERCISE When your turkeys’ heads begin to get red you count them raised and begin to spend the money they will bring— in your mind. And I want to help make the pile as large as possible. Let the turkeys range as far as they will, for their size depends so much upon this; and they are as regular as a- clock in returning home for supper at five. They will not miss the time fifteen minutes. Possibly this is because their owner is always at the gate and their supper is always ready for them just at this time. A BENEFIT TO CROPS One can’t compute the. grasshoppers, chintz bugs and all sorts of insects that a flock of turkeys will turn into cash, besides destroying mice, moles and even snakes. A “doubting Thomas” should follow the flock for an hour and I think his distrust would vanish. A farmer can readily tell which field of clover was hunted over by the turkeys by the scarcity of grasshoppers at cutting time. They will pick a tender leaf of said clover here and there but the fee they levy is very small for the service they render. Then take them in the cornfields—when the corn is too large for the plow. One has no idea of the weed seed they devour. Or turn them out on the field where oats or wheat has been harvested. The grain is always followed by a crop of fox tail and this weed is a delight to turkeys. They begin at the bottom of the head and with one effort strip nearly every seed from the stalk. A flock of turkeys is not a detri- ment to the farm but a benefit if one takes time to find out the truth. Ours never molest the grain or the corn in the shock. If they were starved to it, probably they would. But they are fed every morning (when I can hold them long enough) and always at night, so during the day it is insects and weed seeds for which they search. When October is with us and frosty nights and cold morn- ings come, the turkeys like to linger round the barn in the sunny places, but for your pocketbook’s sake you must not permit it. By nine o’clock take a long stick in each hand and drive them to the fields and pastures. It will be no trduble, as turkeys drive like sheep—at least mine do. I keep them hunting the late grasshoppers and seeds till past ten, then I slip away. Sometimes they do not see me go, and keep on hunting. Sometimes they beat me to the house—but they have had their morning exercise and so have I, and both they and myself are benefitted by these rambles. I drive them to the range every day during October if they do not go by them- selves and my! the pounds of turkey it adds to my flock. PURE-BREDS PAY BEST It pays to raise pure-breds even for market. When I began years ago with White Hollands and marketed 9 pound pullets and 14 pound cockerels, I thought my turkeys paid pretty well. But now I find the cost but little more in pro- ducing 17 pound pullets and 26 pound cockerels. Then, too, if you carry a good grade of stock you can dispose of every bird raised for considerably above market price by advertising your stock. There are very few “culls” among turkeys. They breed so much truer to type than chickens. If one is ailing very much the balance of the flock often kill it. Inhuman? No, sir. Instinct. The fittest should survive. And the largest, strongest, most vigorous male should be allowed to occupy the place he wins by defeating all others —the head of the flock. And I cannot help thinking our “‘Stand- ard Makers” are going against nature when they award ‘‘First”’ to a 26 pound cock over his 35 pound competitor of equal score. Anyhow, friends, you breed big birds and I will guarantee you five chances for sales where the breeder of “Standard weights” has one. 169 SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEPING SUCCESSFUL DUCK GROWING THE PROFITABLE IMPERIAL PEKIN DUCK—ACCOUNT OF A VISIT TO MR. JAMES RANKIN’S FAMOUS MAPLEWOOD DUCK FARM—VALUABLE POINTERS ON INCUBATION, BREEDING STOCK, BROODING AND OTHER MATTERS OF INTEREST TO POULTRYMEN P. T. WOODS, M. D. E do not know of anything that gives us more genuine satisfaction than a good long talk with a thoroughly practical and successful poultry- man who has had many years of experience and who was one of the pioneers in the business. Therefore, when recently we found ourselves en route for South Easton, Mass., on a particu- larly fine day, we anticipated much pleasure and profit from our proposed visit to Mr. James Rankin who has been aptly named by the poultry fraternity the ‘Father of the Pekin Duck Industry in America.” Our pleasant expectations were agree- ably fulfilled and we will now endeavor to tell our readers some- thing about all that we saw and learned at this great’ modern duck ranch and home of the justly famous Imperial Pekin Duck. We were met at the Easton railroad station by Mr. Ran- kin’s son-in-law and after a delightful drive over some fine country roads arrived at Maplewood Farm, one of the largest and best equipped duck’ ranches in the country. One of the first things we noticed as we approached Maplewood was the excellence of the location and layout as well as the fine con- struction and stability of the farm and duck buildings. While Pekin Ducks are the chief products it cannot be considered an exclusively duck farm since other farming interests are also well established and conducted. But the Imperial Pekin is there in all its glory and standard excellence and is unquestion- ably the farm crop of greatest importance, all other features being subservient to it. On our arrival Mr. Rankin met us at the door of the in- cubator cellar, and being particularly interested, we were at once conducted into that department to, view 190 newly hatched ducks that had just been excluded from 200 eggs left in the machine at the final test. Mr. James Rankin is well known in the poultry world and his name is always associated with the Pekin Duck Industry. About forty years ago. he made his first start with ducks and ten years later he came promi- nently beter the poultry public as an incubator inventor and eee of both shite and ducks. The Monarch Incubator was devel- oped and manufactured by Mr. Rankin on his home farm, and for over a quarter of a century proved itself to be one of the most successful hot water tank incubators ever invented. During recent years owing to pressure of other business and because of the high cost of construction, and so necessarily high selling price, it was decided to abandon the manufacture of these machines and take them off the market. Nineteen of these Monarchs of 600-egg capacity each, are now in use on the farm and bringing off remarkable hatches of strong, vigorous duck- lings, besides two 300-egg capacity machines of a more modern make which Mr. Rankin considers quite equal in operation and results to his own invention. This gives Maplewood Farm in its two incubator cellars a total machine capacity capable of setting 12,000 duck eggs at’ one time. SAVING EGGS FOR HATCHING Naturally one of the first things we talked about was arti- ficial incubation, a subject in which the writer is much interested and one on which Mr. Rankin is well qualified to talk authori- tatively. He firmly believes in keeping eggs cool when saving them for hatching and recommends that they be kept at a tempera- ture of between 40 and 50 degrees Fahrenheit. As low as 35 degrees will not injure the eggs and at 40 to 45 degrees they can be safely kept for three or four weeks before setting them. Eggs lose vitality rapidly when exposed to a temperature above 75 degrees and are seldom fit for hatching when kept for more than three or four days at this temperature. This information coming as it does from forty years experience of a very active, capable and observing man should prove valuable to all poultry keepers who save eggs for incubation. Only well formed, medium-sized eggs with sound shells are used for hatching. As a rule the fresher the eggs the better for incubating pur- poses, but entirely satisfactory results have been obtained from one month old eggs, when they have been properly kept. While keeping the eggs they are not disturbed to handle or turn them. They are placed in boxes, baskets or cases and allowed to remain until needed for sitting. This plan has been found to give the best results. 170 TURKEYS, DUCKS AND GEESE COOLING OR AIRING THE EGGS For a long time in the earlier years of his business Mr. Rankin used to hatch with hens, the Pekin Duck seldom sits and when she does cannot be depended upon as a reliable mother. He found that where the hens were confined to the nests and only allowed off for a brief interval each day to feed, drink, exercise and dust, the results were better than where the birds were allowed their own sweet will. Further he made the inter- esting discovery that by protecting the eggs, covering them while the hens were off the nest, he got better hatches of stronger chicks and ducklings. This led him to believe that while it is necessary for the hen to leave the nest to feed and attend to Nature’s needs, so allowing the eggs to cool, it is not proof that the eggs need cooling. Some incubator manufacturers have advised cooling or airing the eggs daily for the simple reason that the hen allows them to cool, losing sight of the fact that while it is a necessity for the hen to leave the nest it may not be helpful to the embryo. When the hen leaves the nest and the eggs cool, they quickly return to the temperature when she covers them again with her warm body and in a very short, time they have regained their normal temperature. With an incubator it is different and it may require an hour or more to regain the lost heat. He firmly believes that cooling and airing the eggs is in a large measure responsible for the poor hatches obtained by some who employ artificial means. In this belief he is supported by the opinions we have heard expressed by many other experienced poultrymen. The eggs get sufficient colling and airing while turning them twice a day in all ma- chines where eggs are turned by hand. Where eggs are ma- chine turned without removing them from the incubator it is well to air them a few minutes at each turning. When operating in cold weather the doors of the machines are kept closed while turning, in warm or hot weather they may be allowed to remain open at this time. The eggs are turned twice daily beginning in the morning of the third day. The eggs are always turned by hand and their relative position in the trays changed daily to help offset any inequality of the heat in the egg chamber. Hand turning in this manner more than pays for the labor involved by the better hatches ob- tained. When turning eggs in a very cold room they are turned as quickly as possible to avoid too much cooling. Care is taken not to jar or shake the eggs overmuch while turning as the less shaking they get the better. TEMPERATURE OF EGG CHAMBER AND TESTING The temperature of the egg chamber is maintained at 102 degrees with a thermometer on a live egg until the animal heat begins to get well established which is on or about the fifteenth or sixteenth day, when the heat is allowed to go to 103 degrees, at which point the temperature is maintained throughout the balance of the hatch. Readjustment of the regulating device is frequently necessary when running a machine filled with strongly fertile eggs, as there is always a tendency to a rise of temperature, and this is considered a good sign. The duck eggs are tested out after they have been incu- bated about seventy hours and all the clear eggs are sent to market. Mr. Rankin assured us that these infertile eggs brought @ price equal to strictly fresh eggs and that they were really considered a superior article because of their keeping qualities Being so short a time in the machine they do not dry down appreciably and in appearance are equal to any egg fresh from the nest. They are not in the least injured for any culinary purposes and will boil perfectly, which is considered one of the best -tests of a fresh egg. In keeping qualities these tested out infertile eggs are superior to all others as they will keep in perfect condition for months, if kept in a cold, dry place. The sales of these eggs total up a very comfortable figure during the season. A second. test is always made on the tenth or twelfth day and all eggs missed at first test, or those in which the germs have died, are removed. A final test is usually made on or about the 24th day. Whenever a dead egg becomes putrid it is smelled out and removed. These can often be detected by the color or marbled appearance of the shell. The wire cloth of the egg trays is covered with or replaced by burlap which is less liable to injure eggs and makes turning easier, as the eggs do not roll about on it as they do on wire. Moisture is used in the machines from the 18th day and is considered a necessity in incubating duck eggs. The usual method is to sprinkle the burlap on the tray and the eggs thor- oughly with water at about the temperature of the eggs, the object being to saturate the air of the egg chamber with mois- ture. On the 26th day the eggs and trays are made quite wet with moderately warm water and the machine closed to remain so until the hatch is over. The ducklings are usually all out on the 27th day and are removed to the brooders on the 28th. THE BREEDING STOCK At Maplewood they are carrying this year (1906) 1,100 head or prime young breeders, and they have carried as high as 2,500. All of these breeders are fine lusty, healthy, vigorous youngsters. Mr. Rankin does not believe in carrying any con- siderable proportion of one or two-year old birds over for breed- ing purposes. He pushes all his growing stock for all that there is in them, and gets all the growth and eggs he can in the short- est possible time. The breeders are picked from the growing pens before the birds go to the fattening yards, and only the choicest. and most vigorous, healthy specimens are selected. He selects his best drakes for next winter’s breeders from the growing yards containing this year’s January, February and March hatched ducklings. At the time these birds are chosen the flocks are in their best possible shape just prior to the final finishing for the market, and will average to weigh about six or seven pounds each and worth at market prices from 25 to 30 cents a pound. So it will be seen that his breed- ing stock stands him at market prices from $1.50 to $2.00 a head. Add to this the fact that these birds when selected are but eight to ten weeks old and must be fed and cared for until nine months old before breeding them, it is not surprising that breeding birds do not sell for less than $3.00 to $5.00 each. Choosing the breeding ducks is done in the same manner but is seldom begun before the March hatched ducklings begin to develop. As a rule ducks will mature for breeding about twelve weeks earlier than the drakes, so that as a breeder a six months old duck compares favorably with a nine months old drake. We show herewith a picture of a flock of Imperial Pekin Drakes which our artist took for us at Maplewood. This flock contains nearly 300 fine breeding males, all early hatched youngs- ters that have been carefully selected as the pick of the season’s production. Never before have we seen a more handsome lot of Pekin drakes in one bunch and it is extremely doubtful if such a lot was ever before duplicated, many of them going ten pounds and over in weight and all in the pink of condition. The Rankin method of selecting ducklings, taking the pick of the flock to save for breeders as soon as their good points can be determined, is a particularly good one and worth follow- ing. Raising as he does from 25,000 to 30,000 ducklings annu- ally this gives him a grand opportunity for the selection of the best sort of breeding stock for all essentials, including standard points, profitable tendencies as to development, size shape and vigor. 171 SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEEPING NO WATER EXCEPT FOR DRINKING PURPOSES This duck ranch is unique in one respect that the breeding stock do not have access to a water run. No water is supplied to ducks or ducklings except for drinking purposes. The breed- ing houses are light, airy and well ventilated, and divided into pens of twenty-five birds each; five ducks to each drake, early in the season, and later on six to eight ducks to one drake as the males become more active and begin to handle the ducks. more roughly. If too many drakes are. allowed in the pens late in the breeding season, they are liable to spoil the appear- ance of the ducks by rough usage and make their heads and necks sore and bloody by pulling at the feathers. The breeding pens are about 12 by 20 feet and have out- side yards about 20 by 100 feet each. There is a three-foot walk just back of the pens in the breeding house and separated from them by a low two-foot high partition. The birds are fed in the house near the walk, and all the water they get is one bucket to each two pens (the water trough is in the middle partition) three times a day, or but twelve quarts of water for each fifty ducks at each meal. That seems pretty closely figur- ing for water supply for birds that are normally considered water fowl, but the breeders were in the best possible condition, and we were given to understand that the fertility of the eggs was all that could be desired or expected for the season of the. year. Neither the old or young stock ever have water to swim or bathe in. FEEDING THE BREEDERS Young stock selected for breeders are turned out to pas- ture as soon as possible in flocks of 200 each. Here they are housed in open sheds or shelters and are fed twice a day all they will eat of the following mash mixture: Three parts, by measure, heavy wheat bran, one part low grade flour, one part corn meal, five per cent beef scrap, three per cent fine grit,and all the green food they will eat in the shape of corn fodder, clover, alfalfa, oat fodder, or green rye, cut fine. When housed in the breeding pens in the fall the brids are put on the laying ration and from then receive a mash twice a day, morning and evening, composed of equal parts, by measure, wheat bran and corn meal; ten per cent beef scrap; twenty per cent low grade flour; ten per cent boiled turnips, mangel beets or potatoes; fifteen per cent clover, rowen or alfalfa, green rye or refuse cabbage, cut fine, and three per cent grit. At noon they get a light feed of corn and oats. Clean grit and the best quality of oyster shell is kept in boxes always before the birds. The mash food is never cooked and is always mixed with cold water. The houses are always kept clean and well aired. The breeding pens are cleaned out and bedded frequently with meadow hay grown on the farm. The ducks appreciate the clean, dry bedding, and it is necessary to keep their feet warm and give them a dry bed. Unlike hens, ducks do not need “ any incentive to exercise; they are always on the move and usually busy both day and night. On account of this ten- dency to be always on the move and talking about it, and because of their extreme timidity it is necessary to avoid hav- ing dark quarters at night. Lighted lanterns are kept in the houses and yards at night to keep the ducks quiet. LOTS OF HARD WORK IN DUCK GROWING While one of the most profitable branches of the poultry business there is plenty of good hard work connected with the conduct of a large duck ranch. It means early to rise and late to bed for the man in charge if a respectable balance is to be kept on the right side of the ledger. It isn’t a business suited to the man who likes short hours or who wants to linger in bed after daybreak. The duck man must be up and doing before sun-up, when the first gray haze of dawn shows on the horizon. The ducks will be up and waiting for breakfast and it isn’t good business policy to keep them waiting too long. They have lusty appetites and the clamorings of their empty stomachs will cause them to fret off good flesh or will affect the egg crop if permitted to go long unappeased. Mr. Rankin employs six men on his duck farm and he keeps them all busy. For himself he considers fourteen to sixteen hours out of the twenty-four a day’s work, and he has been keeping this sort of thing up for a long time and is still hale, hearty and remarkably young and vigorous for his ‘years. On one of our visits to his plant we reached there on an early morning train and found him busily at work hoeing the aspara- gus bed, having already finished the routine work for the morn- ing. Many years of strenuous farm life have not marred his health or activity and there are few men in offices today, fifteen or more years younger, who are his equal in physique. NO GROUND POISONING Although Maplewood has been a duck and poultry plant for forty years there is no evidence of ground poisoning of which we hear so much now in the poultry papers. Cleanli- ness and good common sense care of the farm are responsible for this freedom from the common evils attendant on the con- stant use of yards and houses for poultry and ducks. Maplewood Farm is very flat and there is no gentle slope to aid in the natual cleansing of the yards with each rainfall, but the soil is fairly well drained. Once each week the men sweep out the runs and yards and the manure so cleaned out is used on another part of the farm for fertilizer. In hot weather the yards are also swept thoroughly when ever there are signs of an approaching heavy rain. Otherwise the hot sun on the wet droppings would cause a very unpleasant odor. As soon as the ducks are out of the yards for the season the soil is well turned over by deep plowing, is thoroughly worked and planted to’rye, clover, alfalfa, corn or other crops. One or two crops a year on the ground gives all the disinfecting needed. On this ranch they grow all the green food and vege- tables used and store away quantities of mangle beets, tur- nips and cabbages for the winter. Rye is kept growing the year round. Clover, alfalfa and corn fodder are grown in large quantities. Fresh cut, shredded green corn fodder is con- sidered one of the best green foods for ducks of all ages. BROODING AND FEEDING THE DUCKLINGS All ducklings are brooded in hot water pipe houses of the ordinary box-hover pattern with one flow and one return pipe, each 2 niches in diameter. It is aimed to keep the temperature under the hovers at between 80 and 90 degrees and the house itself comfortably warm. There is always plenty of fresh air in the houses at all times and when the ducklings are two weeks old they get an outdoor run on green rye. The little birds are kept com- fortable, clean and well fed. Their runs and hovers are bedded with planer shavings. : The water founts are galvanized iron and are placed on a wire cloth fastened on to a board walled pit at a level with the earth floor of the run so that any water slopped is quickly drained away and does not mess up the brooder house. For the first four days the ducklings are fed four times a day all they will eat up clean in twenty minutes of a mash made of four parts by measure of wheat bran; one part corn meal; one part low grade flour, five per cent fine grit. From four days to four weeks old they are fed four times 172 TURKEYS, DUCKS AND GEESE a day all they will clean up of a mash made of four parts by measure wheat bran; one part corn meal; one part low grade flour; three per cent fine grit; five per cent fine ground beef scrap (soaked first by scalding). Finely cut green clover, rye or cabbage is fed freely. From the end of the fourth week until six weeks old they have the following mash four times a day all they will clean up quickly: Three parts by measure wheat bran; one part corn meal; one part low grade flour; three per cent fine grit; five per cent beef scrap; one per cent fine oyster shells and a liberal amount of fine cut green food mixed in mash. From the end of the sixth week until eight weeks old, they have the following mash three times a day: Equal parts by measure wheat bran, and corn meal and fifteen per cent low grade flour; ten per cent beef scrap; ten per cent green food and three per cent grit. Keep oyster shells before them. From eight weeks until finish at ten or eleven weeks they are fed three times a day on a mash of one-half corn meal; equal parts by measure wheat bran and a low grade flour; ten per cent beef scrap, and three per cent grit. Oyster shell is kept before them. Green food is fed less freely until within ten days to two weeks of market time and then is omitted altogether. The birds are watered at feeding time. All mashes are made dry and crumbly, never gummy or pasty. As soon as the ducks are weaned from the brooder they are housed in the fattening sheds and yards to remain there until ready for market, unless selected for breeders, in which case they go out on pasture. The mortality among ducklings on this plant is estimated at not over two per cent of the sound, healthy ducklings hatched. All weaklings are killed when the ducklings are taken from the machine to be placed in the brooders. GRAIN, GRIT AND SHELL BY THE CARLOAD All grain, grit, shell and beef scrap used on this farm is bought by the carload. It takes a vast amount of food to keep this plant going in the height of the season. At the time of our visit the 1,100 breeders were receiving about fifteen bushels of mixed mash food at a meal. When the brooder houses are full and the plant is going at full capacity it requires 760 buckets of mash mixture a day to satisfy the hungry ducks and ducklings. These buckets average 12 quarts each, so that it means 285 bushels of mixed feed per day to run this plant in the busy season. Four expert pickers are employed by this plant while the market season is on. These men receive seven cents per head for picking ducklings and will dress from 40 to 60 ducks each as a day’s work. Maplewood averages to market 200 ducks a day during the season which begins in Februay and ends in August. Be- sides this many hundreds of breeders are grown and thousands of eggs are sold for hatching. Pekin ducks are remarkably prolific layers and when once well established in laying it is not uncommon to get as high as 90 per cent egg yield from the flock. After the first few eggs are laid and the birds get in full lay the fertility is remarkably good. The ducks usually start laying in January and are well established and showing a good fertility by the middle of March, and they keep it up until well into June or early July. The ducks will average about 140 eggs per head for the season, some making records as high as 165 eggs. Young ducks will often begin laying at five months old but it is customary to endeavor to hold them back until they are more mature. MARKETING AND PROFITS All ducks marketed by this plant are hatched, grown, killed, dressed, cooled and iced on the home farm. They are New York market when prices are favorable. marketed when from nine to eleven weeks old. Mr. Rankin estimates that the total cost of raising duck meat, labor in- cluded, is not over 10 cents per pound at the present prices for grain. Marketable ducklings will average to dress six pounds each at nine weeks old and seven pounds each at ten to eleven weeks old. One drake grown last season weighed nine and one-half pounds when dressed and ready for market at ten weeks old; this is an exceptional record weight. The prices for fancy market ducks are highest early in the season and the man who beats his competitors getting into market gets the cream of the profits. This season had only begun when we made our last visit to Maplewood and it was too early to obtain figures on the market, but all the incubators were in full blast and the brooder houses rapidly filling up with ducklings. Last year (1905) the top price was 30 cents per pound for early ducklings and did not go below 15 cents late in the season. Mr. Rankin at the last of the season during July made but one shipment at this lowest price as he was able to control the market for his output, and for all other lots the lowest price paid was 19 cents per pound. Boston market takes the bulk of the out- put of this plant although some few shipments are made to the Last season sales of Maplewood ducklings averaged 20 cents per pound. At an average gross cost of production of 10 cents per pound this means quite a tidy profit. The buying public is only just beginning to get acquainted with the excellence of properly grown duck meat and each year sees a constantly increasing demand. With such generous pro- fits to pay for the hard work it is not strange that the industry is developing by a steady and sturdy growth. For a man who likes outdoor life and is willing to stay at home, work hard and keep long hours there is no branch of the poultry business that gives promise of better or more cer- tain returns. To Mr. James Rankin belongs the honor of being one of the first men in the United States to recognize the value of the Pekin duck and to help create the great market outlet in this country for specially grown, fed and fatted ten weeks old duck- lings. May he live long and prosper. ‘TOULOUSE GEESE B. F. HISLOP, Milford, Il. Several years ago we decided that geese would be a source of income in connection with other poultry rearing. The question then was to decide on the variety we would breed. First we looked to the common market’s demand, knowing that this went hand in hand with the fancy. We easily learned the market demanded the heaviest geese, also the fattest, and that the Toulouse came nearer this type than any other, hence our selection. There are drawbacks to all kinds of poultry rearing—one don’t get from this “something for nothing” any more than in another calling, but of all the birds we have handled, geese have the least, and they can stand pampering and heavy feeding and all the breeder needs to do is to see that they have green forage, plenty of drinking water and a little grit; then he can feed any kind of grain he chooses and in any quantity. Of course grain for the young goslings should be in the form of mash and generous in quantity, in connection with green forage, etc., but the adult birds may be scrimped on this if one does not care to fatten them. 178 SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEgrrinu The young birds before in full feather must be protected from inclement weather, but the adults can live most anywhere at all seasons, open sheds or the shelter of buildings is all they ever need in our vigorous winters. During the summer the adults may be plucked at least three times, first at close of breeding season, the others as soon as feathers are in condition; this is when the quills of the small feather (no others should ever be plucked) are free from animal matter, like blood, etc. These feathers will pay for the bird’s keep, leaving the price of fowl as profit. Geese are different from other domestic fowl, as it requires no high fencing to keep them confined anywhere; a big tight pasture is sufficient as they never think of flying over, and the adults are too large for small openings. ; They are only fit for the common market about three months in the year at best, November, December and January; rest of the season are thin, no matter how fed (we never tried stuffing them). The goslings are very vigorous with good care, seldom die, barring accidents. We say, a gosling hatched means a goose for market, and seldom miss it. To get the best size one wants to keep them growing ‘all summer. We hatch the eggs and rear the young with chicken hens, as we find them more docile and easier handled. They are then very tame, regular pets, always happy and contented, while other young fowls do lots of crying around. Our goslings reach from standard weights up to as high as 20 to 22 pound females, and 23 to 25 pound males, in December. Average good birds, 16 pound females and 19 pound males, highest weights given are our exceptionally fine show birds and fattened, although this is done on range and whole grain. We have never been able to supply the fancy market at good prices, since we have established our reputation to send what we promise and cheerfully take back birds that are not satisfactory. True, we don’t get as large sums for single speci mens as is often received for turkeys or chickens, but on an . average (most all geese are good specimens in a well bred flock) we make as much and often more profit off of our geese than any other variety of fowl we handle. They are not as prolific when it comes to eggs and young birds as turkeys, neither to be compared with chickens in this respect, but the per cent of young reared to maturity is too great for comparison. Being large birds the ordinary farmer need not expect to rear large numbers of them, nor does he of any kind of stock, but every farmer could easily keep a trio or two of old breeders each year and rear all the young possible from these. The adults while not laying can run in lots with shoats or even several old hogs with little or no danger, or with horses and cows if there are a few nooks for them that the large animals can’t go in. The old birds kept for breeding should never be made ex~- cessively fat during the winter, if one wants best results in spring. Geese live to a good old age and breed well, young breeders are not as good as old ones. Toulouse are by many farmers called ‘‘dry land’ geese, it isn’t necessary for them to have swimming pools; it won’t hurt them to but they can’t be fat- tened to top weights when they do. Goslings should never be allowed to swim while in down, or when weather is chilly. The young birds keep changing in color until in full feather, then they remain the same, both male and female are alike to a feather, male coarser and larger, with more of a masculine look about the head, but. one not familiar with them can’t distinguish between the sexes nor can an old breeder until they about reach maturity; then their voices become different, that of the female, very hoarse and male squeaky; actions of birds also a key to sex. Geese in common market bring from 10 to 12 cents per pound; as breeders, good ones $5 up to $15 or more. 174 CHAPTER TWELVE PREVENTION OF POULTRY DISEASES BREED ONLY SOUND, HEALTHY STOCK IMPORTANCE OF FRESH AIR AND SUNSHINE—WHOLESOME FOOD AND PURE WATER NECES- ‘SARY TO HEALTH—DON’T WASTE FIVE OR TEN DOLLARS’ WORTH OF TIME AND MEDI- CINE DOCTORING A DOLLAR BIRD, AND SO RISK INFECTION OF YOUR WHOLE FLOCK S THE prevention of disease is of much greater importance than the cure so far as poultrymen are concerned, we shall devote this chapter en- tirely to a brief discussion of how to avoid poultry ailments. For those who care to go more fully into the subject and who desire to know the best methods of treating sick fowls, we recommend a eareful study of the book ‘Reliable Poultry Remedies” of the REetiaBLE PouLttry JOURNAL series. In that book will be found all that it is necessary for poultrymen to know about diseases common to poultry. In the prevention of poultry diseases one of the most im- portant matters is to bear in mind the fact that “like begets like.” You cannot grow good crops from poor seed, you cannot raise strong sturdy chickens from breeding stock that has.had serious sickness or that is debilitated and out of condition. Once you breed birds that are not in condition or that have made only a fair recovery from a serious illness, you start trouble that it will take several generations of careful breeding to up- root. To be absolutely sure of having healthy chicks it is not sufficient alone to have healthy parent stock, the stock must have been healthy for more than one generation; in other words, to have healthy chicks you must have healthy grand-parent and parent stock. Begin now to select and handle your stock with a view to breeding only healthy fowls hereafter. If this is given careful attention, in a few years, provided you properly care for your stock, disease on your poultry plant will be con- spicuous only by its absence. , THE BREEDING STOCK Breeding stock must be perfectly sound, healthy, vigorous and active. Cured fowls that have once had a serious ailment Should never be used in the breeding pen if the best results are desired. Examine all breeders carefully, particularly the mouth, throat, nose and eyes. Don’t breed a bird that has a cough or that is seriously troubled with canker. Breeding birds should be plump but not overfat. They should be as nearly physi- cally sound as it is possible to have them. Fowls of either sex which exhibit a tendency to grow dark about the face, comb and wattles when frightened or startled, or after running, should not be used in the breeding pen, as there is in all probability something wrong with the circulatory organs and they cannot as a rule be depended upon to produce healthy offspring. Select birds that are good feeders, but don’t use the gluttons of the flock. There are always a few birds in every flock that are in- clined to make hogs of themselves in the matter of feeding, and these are seldom good layers and almost invariably are poor breeders. It is best to make use of their gluttonous tendencies to get them fatted quickly and off to market. While it is true that so far as we know disease cannot be transmitted through heredity, it is also true that the tendency to disease may be handed down for several generations. For this reason it is absolutely necessary to breed only sound, vigorous, healthy, active specimens. Be sure that breeding birds are well matured. Don’t use those which are exceptionally pre- cocious. Too early maturity is just as bad as too late maturity, Choose birds which mature evenly and well and show as far as possible good development at all stages of growth. Look for the bright eyes, red comb, smooth, dry, well-kept plumage, keen appetite and activity, which indicate the healthy fowl. If you pay attention to these details the battle is half won. NATURE’S BEST REMEDIAL AGENTS Nature has provided for us two of the best remedial agents, disinfectants, blood purifiers and health promoters, in pure fresh air and sunlight. Fresh air is of just as great importance at night as during the daytime. Many fowls that would other- wise be sound and healthy have their constitutions utterly. ruined by cooping in tight, poorly ventilated poultry buildings. No poultry house should be too tightly closed at night. Some allowance should always be made for a liberal supply of pure fresh air. As a general rule fowls do best in any climate in cold poultry houses that are well ventilated or in open front build- ings, the so-called fresh air poultry houses. There are many types of thesé buildings and most of them will prove safe and satisfactory. The most essential feature is to provide a plen- tiful supply of pure fresh air at all times without drafts about the roost. Houses that are tight at the north end and east and west sides and have a tight roof, can have the windows or openings in the south front kept open for the greater part of the time, night and day through the year, in fact, the south front should never be wholly closed. In cold houses where this plan is adopted there will never be any trouble from so-called ‘‘house sweating,” the birds will not be as susceptible to sudden weather changes, and the egg yield will be just as good as, and frequently better than, that of fowls kept in tight, close poultry buildings. Tight poultry houses will be greatly benefitted by having muslin screens substituted for a part of the glass in the south front. Use the coarse unbleached muslin and tack it loosely on to wooden frames which take the place of the upper half of the window sash. In this way fresh air can be supplied without danger from drafts, even in small narrow poultry buildings. Sunshine is one of the best purifiers and disinfectants that we have, and all poultry houses should be so arranged as to admit an abundance of sunlight to the interior of the house whenever the sun shines. WHOLESOME FOOD AND PURE WATER NECESSARY Wholesome food and pure water are of the greatest im- portance. Remember that the greater per cent of the fowl’s 175 SUCCESSFUL POULTRY KEErinu body, and of eggs produced by fowls, is water. They need a constant supply of clean, pure, fresh water at all times. It should be drawn from a source from which we would be willing to take our own supply. Disease will spread through impure or polluted drinking water more quickly than in almost any other way. Where a good, pure, fresh running stream can be had it will serve well for watering the fowls, but as a rule running streams are not fit for drinking purposes. No stock should be permitted to drink from streams which run through foul barnyards and piggeries, or which receive the seepage from manure heaps, privys and piggeries. Neither should streams into which factories empty their waste be used for watering stock of any description. Where a stream has its source in a pure spring or springs and runs through clean open land or woodland, and is not contaminated from above mentioned sources, it may be safely made use of and proves an ideal means of watering, provided it is so placed that it will not receive the wash of crowded poultry yards. Drinking fountains should be cleansed frequently. For adult fowls 10 or 12 quart galvanized iron pails make the best~ drinking vessels, as they are easily handled and may be thor- oughly cleaned with very little labor. Good galvanized iron drinking fountains are best for little chicks, although easily cleaned earthenware, glass or cast-iron water fountains may be used when convenient. It is seldom wise to allow more than one pen of fowls to water from the same pen or bucket where birds are kept in continuous houses, since by watering two pens from one receptable you simply double the chances of infection should sickness break out in either one of the flocks. All food should be sound, sweet and free from must and mold. Never use sour, musty or moldy grain. It is a pro- lifice source of bowel troubles in both young and old stock. Cracked grains when purchased in this condition should be care- fully inspected, as they are very liable to be musty. Fowls need a variety of food to keep their appetites in good condition, which means keeping them healthy. Grain may be supplied mixed or separately, and it is wise to feed at least two or three kinds such as wheat, corn and oats. Barley, buckwheat, kaffir corn and other grains and seeds may also be used to advantage by way of variety. Green food is of the utmost importance and some fresh raw food should be fed at all seasons of the year. The ideal way to feed green food is to give the birds a good pasture on clover or grassland. If this cannot be supplied, furnish them with an abundance of raw vegetables such as mangels, beets, turnips, cabbages and small potatoes, as much as they will clean up during the day. Vary this supply occa- sionally by giving cut clover or cut alfalfa. By keeping an abundance of green food sufficient for each’ days’ needs before the birds all the time, you will prevent many common ailments and discourage feather picking. Oyster shell, grit and charcoal are necessary to the health of the birds, and should be kept before them at all times. Oyster shell is particularly necessary and it has been found by careful tests that birds supplied with grit alone do not do as well as those that have oyster shell and no grit, while those having both grit and oyrster shell do best. Charcoal is necessary as a cor- rective. The fowls will not eat more than they need of it and it keeps their digestive organs in good condition and prevents diarrhoea. CARE OF THE POULTRY HOUSE Poultry houses should be kept reasonably clean. By this we mean filth must be avoided. A little dust will do no harm, but extreme dustiness is dangerous to the health of the birds. You will generally find more or less catarrhal trouble in build- ings that are exceedingly dusty. Sand or gravel is preferable as a filling for poultry houses to loam or other dusty soil. Road dust should not be used as it is necessarily of a filthy character containing all sorts of impure matter. Fowls will enjoy and take benefit from a good dust bath and such should be supplied in some sunny portion of the pen. Clean, sandy loam mixed with a little sifted coal ashes makes a very good dust bath, and the fowls will prefer it in summer time kept a little moist. VERMIN % You cannot expect fowls to be very healthy and do well if they are subject to continued attacks of lice and mites. These poultry vermin must be gotten rid of if we are to get best results. With a little care one can enjoy almost entire freedom from these pests. A good liquid lice killer used freely about the roosts and droppings boards will insure freedom from mites. To get rid of the body lice on the fowl, dust the birds once in three months with pure Dalmatian or Persian Insect Powder. This powder should be made of the pure fresh ground Persian insect flowers, or Pyrethrum, and should be purchased of a reputable drug supply house. The price varies from 25 to 30 cents a pound, and it is well worth the money to any poultry- man. In dusting the fowls they should be dusted thoroughly, working the powder well into the feathers down to the skin all over the body. If all birds are given a thorough dusting and a little of the powder is scattered in each nest, there will be no more trouble from lice for some time. We seldom find it nec- essary to dust brids oftener than once in three months, but it is absolutely necessary to use the pure, fresh, unadulterated powder. AVOIDABLE CAUSES OF DISEASE Among the avoidable causes of disease are poorly ventilated poultry houses, overcrowded buildings, crowding on the roosts at night, dampness, filthy quarters, impure food and water, the use of moldy or musty litter material, and breeding from unsound, unhealthy or debilitated stock. All of these causes can be avoided with a little care. All new fowls received should be quarantined for a short time before being introduced to a flock. Sick birds when found should be immediately removed from the flock, and if seriously sick had best be killed and cremated. It is never wise to spend five or ten dollars’ worth of time and medicine doctoring a bird whose carcass is only worth about a dollar at market prices. If it were simply a matter of doctoring the bird alone, the matter would not be so serious, but as a rule when time is taken to treat sick fowls the danger of infection of the balance of the flock is not reckoned with. Ifa sick bird is promptly disposed of and the carcass cremated the danger of infection of the bal- ance of the stock is reduced to the minimum. If the bird is simply placed by itself on some other part of the farm and the attendant goes from treating it to the buildings occupied by the other stock, or if contagion is carried in some other way, there is always liability of spreading the disease. As a general rule the best way to treat simple sickness in fowls is to provide a range for them on some remote part of the farm where they will be obliged to rough it in open front sheds with the roosts well elevated in the rear part where the birds can sleep free from drafts, but at the same time have the benefit of practically living in the open. Keep a mixture of dry grains always before these birds and plenty of oyster shell, grit, char- coal and pure water. See that they have an abundance of green food. Any that are worth saving will usually come through without the necessity of special treatment. The outdoor natural “roughing it” life will be all that is necessary to bring them round in good shape. Seriously sick birds had best be killed at once and the carcasses cremated. 176 teint iN tai wii! Fa altaln taenladile d