IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) <_ ^ .«^ 5?^^ ^ 1.0 I.I 1^121 §15 US ^^ "^ ■u liiii 12.2 lit la 1-25 III 1.4 1.6 ^ 6" ► Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WfST MAIN STRliT WIBSTIR,N.Y. 14SM (716)t73-4S03 ^^% 4^ 4^ ^ I ^ i v> CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series. CIHIVI/ICIVIH Collection de microfiches. Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques Technical and Bibliographic Notes/Notes tachniquas at bibliographiquas Tha Inatituta haa attamptad to obtain tha baat original copy availabia for filming. Faaturaa of thia copy which may ba bibllographically uniqua, which may altar any of tha imagaa in tha raproduction, or which may aignificantiy changa tha uaual mathod of filming, ara chaclcad balow. L'Inatitut a microfilm^ la maillaur axamplaira qu'll lui a it6 poaaibia da aa procurer. 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Whenever poaaible, theae have been omitted from filming/ II aa peut que certainea pagea blanchaa ajouttea lore d'une reatauration apparaiaaant dana la texte, maia, loraque cela 6tait poaaibia, cea pagea n'ont paMI i ■ i V r\ r* ^ r V V ' 92516 <*«■ SUBSCRIBERS NAMES. L >ORD Alhburton William Pierce Aflie A*Court Aihe, efq. M.P. John Allen, efq. Thomas Afhwood, efq, B Duke of Buccleugh * -f Lord Vifcount Beauchamp 2 copies Sir Jofeph Banks, bart. Prefidenc of the Royal Society Colonel Byde Samuel Baglhaw, efq. of Ford Owen Salifbury Brereton^ efq. Vice-Prefident of the Royal Society Captain Bofville W. H. Bevan, efq. Lincoln's Inn Mr. William Butcher, Paradife-Rovv, Lam- beth Mr. Champion Brayj Manchefter Mr. John Blackwall, Blackwall i Earl of Carliile Earl Cornwallis • Lord Cathcart Right Honourable H; S. Conway, M. P. * Sir Gray Cooper, bart. M.P. * D. P. Coke, efq. M. P. 2 copies P. G* Crauford, efq. F. R. S. A 3 Mr. m SUBSCRIBERS NAMES. James Cotton, cU\, late of North Carolina Mr. Nicholas Crcfvvcll, Eclalc, Derbyfhire, 3 copies Mr. Peter Copland, Jamcs-flrect, Grofvcnor- f(juare Mr. John Henry Carey, late of Maryland A. C. 3 copies D Duke of Devonfliire * Larl of Dartmouth * Karl of Dunmorc Sir J. Dyer, bnrt. * ColonelDonald M*Donald, Highgate Kcv. Dr. Downes, Prebend of St. Patrick's, Dublin Pvobert Dormer, efq. Dukc-ftreet, Weftminfter T. Dyer, eU\, * Captain Henry Duncan, of the Royal Navy Mr. Dennifon, Duke-ftreet, Manchefter-fquare E Right Honourable William Eden, M. P. * Honourable Thomas Erlkine, M. P. * -f William Frazcr, elq. Undersecretary of State T. Freemantle, efq. Captain Frazer, Coldftream Reg. of Guards Captain Freemantle, ditto Mr. Fifk ^ r»Ir. Septimius Furnis, Macclesfield Mr. Richard Falkncr, Sheffield Mr. Charles Fox, Cornwall -j- 6 Du SUBSCRIBERS NAMES. G Duke of Grafton, lo copies Lord Grofvcnor * "f- Sir Sampfon Gideon, bart. M. P. Lady Glynnc, Howardin-Caftlc, Flintfhlre Lieutcnant-Gcncral the Hon. T. Gage Major John Randolph Grymes, late of Vir- ginia. Mr. Charles Greatrcx, Manchcftcr Mr. Robert Gee, Stockjiort Mr. William Greaves, Bakewell H Earl of Hillfborough * Lord Vifcount Howe, Firft Lord of the Ad- miralty, &c. &c. * Lieutenant-General the Hon. Sir William Howe, K. B. &c. Hon. Major-General Harcourt * Commodore William Hotham, of the Royal Navy Colonel Hill, late of the pth. Reg. of Foot Capt. David Howell, 15th Reg.Dragoons, M.P. Mr. Hopkins Enfign Hewgill, Coldftream Gua r Mr. Michael Harris, Millbank-row, Wcft- minfter Mr. Hairs, Oxford-ftrect -j- Mr. Thomas Hall, Macclesfield Mr. John Hadfipld, ditto Mr. Micha Hall, Cal\leton i ( " t s William Jones, efq. T. L 3 copies A 4 Mr. SUBSCRIBERS NAMES. Mr. Thomas Kerfhaw, Dcrbylhire Mr. Keriley, late of Philadelphia -|* Mr. Daniel Key, Uanchcller Mr. Benjamin Kirk, Brough Mr. Charles Kirk^ Nevvfmithy Lieutenant General Lifter Edward Bcachcr Le Croft, efq. f Mr; P. Lcyburn, late of Maryland Mr. Charles Lees, Derbylhire B. L. M Duke of Montague * Major-General Martin, Coklftrcam Reg. Guards Colonel Monirefor, late Chief Lngincer in America * Lieutenant Colonel Morihead Mr. Ifaac Martin, Bradvvell Mr. Samuel Miller, Bridgehay Mr. Mafon, Mattock Bath Mr, Richard Mangnell, SheiHcld N Lord North • Lord Newhaven Mrs. Ncedham, Perryfoot Mr. Robert Needham, jun. ditto O Sir George Ofborn, bart. M. P. Major Gene- ral in the Army, Lieutenant-Colonel of the 3d Rep;. Foot-Guards, Groom of his Ma- jefty's Bedchamber, 8rc. 4 Mr. SUBSCRIBERS NAMES. Mr. Thomas Oycll, Chappcl in Frith. Mr. Oppic, Great Quccn-ftrcet, Lincoln Vinn» fields Mr. Oliphant, Fludyer-ftrcct, Weftminftcr * f P Duke of Portland * Lord Vifcount Palmerfton * Samuci Phipps, cU\, Lincoln's-inn, 2 copies « Pollock, ciq. * f Richard Phillips, c(q. Lincoln's inn Mrs. Charlotte Pringle, Royal Row, Lambeth Mr. Richard Potter, Derbyftiire Mr. Robert Poole, Button Hill R. P. 12 copies R. Quarme, efq. R Duke of Richmond George Rofe, cfq. John Randolph, efq. late Attorney General of Virginia Samuci Remnant, efq. Mr. Ru(h, Surgeon of the 2d. Troop of Horfc Grenadier Guards Mr. John Richardlon, Derbylhirc Mr. John Robinfon, Haflbp. Earl of Salilbury * Lord Vifcount Stormont, 4 copiei Lord Vifcount Sackville * Lord Soudiampton, 2 lop'es Sir !• ' ( itt. 4 ^1. \ \K \ SUBSCRIBERS NAMES- Sir Richard Sutton, barr. M. P. ♦ Colonel Stevens, ill. Reg. Foot Guards, Equerrj to the Prince of Wales, and Aid de Camp to the King, &c. Colonel Sherriff, Portland Place * Governor Sinnott, of Niagara in Canada Major Stockton, late of New-Jerfey Mr. G. S. Mifs Stopford, Stockport Mr. John Smith, Manchefter J. F. S. 7 copies Major General H. Trelawny, ifl Major of the Coldftream Reg. Guards Mr. Richard Threfher, Strand Mr. John Thomas, Dean-ftreet, Soho V J.ieutenant General Vernon, Lieutenant Go- vernor of the Tower I! w Lord Weftcote ^ Sir John Borlafe Warren, bart. M. P. &c. J. W^ilmot, efq. M. P. 2 copies Thomas White, efq. Lincoln's-Inn Eardly Wilmot, efq. Enlign Webb, Coldftream Reg. Guards Mr. James Wright, Heafield W. Z. 5 copies ADVERTISEMENT. THE late great and very extraor- dinary revolution in America, a re- volution with its attending circumftances unparalleled in the annals of hiftory, having excited the curiofity of all ranks of people, not only of Great Britain, but of every nation in Europe, to procure the moft authentic information concerning that country, and there being nothing of the kind hitherto publiflied that gives any fatisfadory account thereof, is the caufe of my offering thefe volumes to the public. IW } ' The moft painful talk to me throughout this work has been to mention the hard- fliips ii ADVERTISEMENT. fhips and feverities I have undergone, is thefe are now at an end, and freely for- given ; for although I may have much to lament, I folemnly declare that I have no refentments to indulge, no revenge to pur- fue ; and the few inftances I met with of kind and generous treatment have af- forded me infinite gratification and plea- fure to relate. Far be it from me to wifli to widen a breach already too much extended ; but' thofe illiberal and vindidive principles which hitherto appear to have actuated the public as well as private condu•• cxpanfes. P. 41, 1. 7, for excurfioii, r.cxertion. P. 75, 1. 2 !, ' • the men. P. 182, 1. 6, r. a variety. P. 199, 1. 3, r. prcpolfcfTed. P. 211. I. 15, r refi- dcnce. P. 215, 1. 28, fr fc6l, r. fcx. P. i')o, 1. 1 6, r. as all the rrfl- of their. P. 293, 1. 3, 4' h Ith ■sssc ll^ I III CONTENTS. INTRODUCTION. The Author's Apology. Achnotvledgement of Deficicnces, Reafons that induced him to publijh theje Volumes, 5/- milies. Solicits for hidulgence and Candor, Profejfes Impartiality and Diffidence, - - ■ Page I CHAP. I. Firfl Appearance of Land, Capes of Virginia, Chefa- peak-Bay, Hampton-Roads, Mujketoes, Norfolk, JameS'River, Janies-'Toiun, Plantations, Williamf- burg - - - « " 7 CHAP. II. IVilliam/burg, Races, Breed of Running Horfes, 17 CHAP. III. The different beautiful Situations, and Gentlemen^s Seats, on James-River, - - - - - ^^ CHAP. IV. Richmond, Falls of Janus-River, ^c. - 30 C H A P. V. Inhabitants. Climate. Sky, Thunder and Lightning. Face of the Country, Bullfrogs, Strange and tre- men dons Sounds, Inchantment, Negroes. 35 ■SI I .ii I .. u 4; ■ Vol. I. CHAP. \ r i 1 ' i; CONTENTS. H iiit' «j CHAP. VI. Jilatwer of Life of each Rank of the Inhabitants. Hani I^at'c and J were Treatment of the Negroes. Page 41 CHAP. VII. Hoiifcs. OrdinarieSy or Inns. Aflrange Animal, Black Snakes. Devour Frogs and Mice, Fafcinate Birds in the Air. Flying Squirrelsy £s*f. - - 49 C H A P. VIII. ^mlitv and Appearance of the Soil. Wheat. Indian-Corn, Tobacco. Pc/ciyhurg. Falls of Appamattox. Bland- foh-d. Pohnhunfas. Indian Ewperor''s Daughter. Randolph and Boiling Families, The River Appa- Viatlux. - - " - ^'j CHAP. IX. General Characler, and great Hojpitality of the VirgifjianL Number of Inhabitants in Virginia. - - (>- C H A P. X. A wretched Situation. Nottoway- River, Horfes refufe to eat Bacon. Troublcfome Companion, Maherren- River, -_-> -. "73 C H A P. XI. North Carolina. Halfax-Toivn, Roanoak-River. Falls, Rock Fight. Floods. - - - 84 CHAP. XII. Lofty Timber. Method of clearing Land. Woods on Fire, Dreadful Conflagratiofts- - - 92 CHAP. XIII. inhabitants of the Country and of the Towns. Clajfes of People. Stores. Planters, Methods of Trade and Comtnerce. - - - 9® a Tarlurg, ;*: ; e O N T i: N T s. CHAP. XIV. Tiu-btirg. Altacked by an itinerant Nctv-light Prtacher. Get f.'jj}. Strange Ignoranc' and uncouth /ippearance of ti.f Inhabitants. lnj}ance cf extraordinary Jiofpitality and Jji.nevoIfna: Chowan Sound. Rattle Snakes. Cure for tJ)eir Bite, CHAP. XV. Extraordi, W ylni G Alociojpjn Snakes. Page 101 7/ an Innlt ^extraordinary n oinan. yinicruan Ueneral an Jnnleeper, Dreadful Thunder^clap. Simplicity of the Negroes. j4n extraordinary In/lance thereof. - - n i CHAP. XVI. Nutbufj Cn\'h. Alcmher of Congrfs. Anecdotes of the famous Hcnderfouy and the Origin of the new Settle- ment of' Kentucky, - - - - 122 CHAP. XVII. Harrifjurg. Tar-River. Taken Sick. Extremely ill. Uncivilized Inhabitants. Handfomc ll^omen. Inflances of ivorfc than Jhvage Brutalitv. A very fmgular and diverting Trick. Meet nvith a beautiful Girl. An extraordinary Occurrence. - 129 C iT A P. XVIII. Wcods. Glades, or Savannahs. Licks. Hunters. IVild Horfes. Peculiar Sentiments of an European^ on his Arrival in America. - - 140 C H \ P. XIX. Appearance of the Cowtry. Difeafes of the Climate. Snakes. Game. Racoons. Defcription of the Op- poffum. Beer made of Perftmmons. Cheapnefs of Land. Delightful Climate. Stanzas nvritten in Solitiide. 147 a 2 Neivfe- '\ \ } ( '■ « i s CONTENTS, fi I M :i||.i CHAP. XX. New/e-Rivfr. Hill/borough. Strong Po/f. Hmu Fields. Singular Phcnoncnon, Accounted for, - Page 159 CHAP. XXI. HaW'Rivcr, Deep-River. Cape Fear River. Carro^ •way AJountains. Grand and elegant Pi. 'fpcciive. Bad Aconwiodations. Vnfuitahle to an Epicure^ or a Pet'it- Maitre. - - r " '^7 CHAP. XXII. Tadkin-River. Sali/bury. Beautiful Perfpe^'ive. Tryon Mountain. Brttfljy Mountains. The King Mountain diflinguifljed for the unhappy Fate of the gallant Major. Fergufon. ^- - -- - 174 CHAP. XXIII. Blazed Path. Origin and Ufe thereof. Defrription of a Back Wood's Rifleman. Hisflrange Drefs and peculiar Sentiments. -'.''': \1^. CHAP. ]^IV. Catawba Indians. The King. Once a powerful Nation. Cufloms. Depopulation. Caufes thereof. Manner of Life. Abortions of the young Women. - 1 84 CHAP. XXV. Catawbds vafl Property. Their Mam failures. Their No/line fs, - *! - 1 92 CHAP. XXVI. (^atawba-River. An uncommon Inflance of Penury. Rich Mifer. Wretchednefs and Mifery of his Slaves, Wii^f n/u! /ifigi./ar ]^}\n;''i:trn. Great Kxtint. Loivcr Snnvra Toivns, A vnj} aiul pr fituble Purrhnfc. H.rtiy or Hyop SfuiLc. My'} y -ifcnotis. Alarming AciOUiUs of t]:c bhliaiis, - - 255 C H A P. XXXV. Ford the Dan. Fa// in. Part w'tli m\ /rvc/v Gti'ulf. Gd /oj}. Perplexing Si/u,ttion. Come upon a Number of Indians. Fheir Behaviour. 7heir Hof/utu/i/y and Kindnefs. - - - - - 2^7 CHAP. XXXVI. Direcled the Way b\ the Indians. Leathernvood Creel. P/antations abandoned. Beaver Creek. Arrive at the Fort. Refufed Admittance. - 274 CHAP. XXXVII. Threaten to fet Fire to the Fort. Admitted. Shocking Scenes of Iniquity and Obfcencnefs within. Ride out and viftt the Plantations around. Refolve to fet cut on my jfouniey. - - - - 280 CHAP. XXXVIII. Situation of the Fort. SmitFs River. Soil. Ginfeng., Snake-root. Prices of Wheat^ Corn, Beef, Pork, Tobacco, ^e. Culture of Indian Corn. Its great and itmverfal Utility. - - - 288 CHAP. XXXIX. Set out for Kentucky. Vifit the Summit of the Wart Mountain, Defcription of a mojl extenfive, grand, and elegant PerfpCLllve. Ideas raifed in ike Mind. 300 Defcetid • ! IH c o N r E N r s, CHAP. XL. Hifr>i(l the Afrjt/fif.ihi. Crofs the N, w River. JWnhUe J'lri- of H'Jjiofi. j-lry'tvc at Stnhlnuik,! f. Cv^fs the North Briuuh of Holjlon, Cvcfs C/inrha^Rivtr. /Ifiiiid tht' j^rmt jillc^iin^. ;c pi) C H A P. XLI. Crofs the luij} yllit^nny Mouutaitis. Fall upon the J^nr' rioi's hnmeh, Crofs tre OuJ'iotto Mouutiuns. //>.- pt net r able Thul.ts of Laurel. River of Kentiuky, u4rrlve at the famed miv Seithtneut on Kentucky. 310 C H A P. XLir. The famed Settlement of Kentueky. Mr. Henderfon m tiiilitary Alan. Injtidieious Forts. A fine command' ing Situation. Want of Subordination in y/merica. Hardy Race, but illiberal. Elephants Bones on the Ohio. - - - 326 CHAP. XLIII. The Rivers Kentucky and Ohio. Woods and Inclofures, Came. Wild Beafls and Fi/Jj. A general Account of the Indians, Their Characler. Difpofitions and Numbers. - - « 3^4 CHAP. XLIV. A Lifi of the Niimes of all the different Indian Nations on' the Continent of North Americay with their Situations, and the Number of Gun-men or Warriors in each Nation, - , « 3^iy CHAP- XLV. J^eave Kentucky. Sail doivn the Ohio. The Falls of the Ohio. A;^reeable Companions, Flnter the Miffffippi, ^nd proceed down that River. Meet fome Chickefaws, Thtlr ' (1 1% n I i CONTENTS. Their ^ne Horfes. A gallant Nation. Attacked by a vo^ " Superiority of French and Indians, Defeat them* Their Origin. Their Coavalry. - Page 353 CHAP. XLVI. Leave Tajfous. Arrive at Hatches. Proceed to New Orleans. French Inhabitants averfe to Spani/h Govern- ment. InfurreElion quelled. Enrnejlly ivijh for Bri- tijh Liberty. Number of Families in New Orleans and Louiftana, - - . 365 CHAP. XLVII. Dangerous Alligators. Vc^ Fertility of the Soil. Spanijh Beards, Wait on the Governor. New Orleans* Great Di/lrejfes offome Englijh and French imprifoned by the Spaniards in New Mexico. Vajl Flocks of Cat' tie and Horfes. Etttenftve Savannahs. A good Priefl. Leave New Orleans. Arrive at Manchac. Coaji along the Gulf of Mexico. Mobile ^ Penfacolay Apala- chicholof l2fc* - - - - 371 CHAP. XLVIII. The Rivers MiJ/tJftppi, Miffourisy Illinois^ TaJfouSy AkanfaSy RougCy Apalachicholay Mobile, ^c. Colo' rado. North-River, or Rio Bravo. New Mexico. Gulf of California, Mines of Potoft. Acapulco. Old Mexico. La Vera Cruz. Diftances of Places. De- fcription of the Country, - - ' 38S 41 INTRO. ■i^^' INTRODUCTION. The Author*s Apology. Acknowledgement of Defi'^ c'lences, Reafons that induced him to publijh tkefe Volumes, Similies, Solicits for Indulgence and Candor, PrefeJ/es Impartiality and Diffidence, THE author of the following fheets has no apology or excufe to offer for their publication, but fincerely good intentions, to which, however, he may juflly lay claim ; and an earned defire ot communicating, and transfufing through- out this the parent flate of Britifh America, a more general as well as a more particular knowledge of that extenfive and extraor- dinary country, • than feems to prevail at this interefting period, notwithftanding the great, though lately much to be la- mented hoftile intercourfe between that vail continent and thefe kingdoms. Vol. I. B He I \ \ . \\ t ; Ml I « INTRODUCTION. il '\ ;r ■ i i He candidly acknowledges a multitude of deficlences, originating in want of abi- lities. They are written without ornament or elegance, perhaps in fome refpe£ts not perfedly accurate, being compofed under peculiarly difadvantageous circumftances : but although the fubjed, as well as the matter, be entirely new, yet he has ftridly adhered to truth, which has been his in- variable guide and director. Having very lately arrived in England from America, where he had made many cxtenfive journies, and fatiguing, pe- rilous expeditions, prompted by unbound- ed curiofity, and an infatiable enthufiaf- tic defire of knowledge, during a refidence in that country for a confiderable length of time, in which he had become per- fedly reconciled and habituated to the manners, cuftoms, difpofitions, and fenti- ments of the inhabitants, he eagerly fought out, and purfued with a degree of avidity rarely felt, every treatife and publication relative to America, from the firil difcovery by the immortal Columbus, down 1 :|. INTRODUCTION. % n down to Carver's late Travels therein, and even the Penfilvania Farmer's Letters, by Mr. Hedtor St. John (if indeed fuch a perfon ever exifted); but always had the extreme mortification to meet with difap- pointment in his expe(flations, every one grafping at, and enlarging on the greater objects, and not a fingle author descend- ing to the minutiae, which compofe as well the true perfpeQive, as the real grand intercourfe and commerce of life. Aduated by thefe motives, he was in- duced to hazard this undertaking, wifhing to fupply that neceflary fhare of inferior knowledge, which to him appeared to be wanting in Great Britain, the original feat of empire, from the deficiences al- ready pointed out. For a defcription of the formation of a fingle brick, of a vaft multitude of which, artfully arranged, prodigious build- ings and elegant palaces are con (lru£ted, to a perfon entirely unacquainted with fuch a thing, is as neceflary, beneficial, and fometimes equally agreeable as the defcrip* lion of the edifice itielf. B 2 And Til I !'.! f t'l ! ;i 4 INTRODUCTION. And the particular mode in forming the compofition for making the fineft china is more fought after, and certainly of no lefs value, than the moft elegant, rich, and expenlive fet of porcelain of the beftDrefden manufadture. In one refpedt he folicits the indulgence of .the public. As feveral matters related in the courfe of the following pages are perfedly novel, uncommon, and ftrangc to an European reader, efpecially to a Bri- ton, who may thereby be induced to de- cide againfl the veracity and probability of the whole, from the apparent incredi- bility, to him, of fuch fmgular pheno- mena, and in his opinion, marvellous, furprifmg relations; on thefe occafions, he entreats the man of candour only to fufpend his cenfure arid judgment, in fuch inftances, either until he meets with fome intelligent perfon in whom he can con- fide, and on whofe decifion he may re^ ly, who has made a confiderable refi- dence in, and progrefs through that extraordipary country -, or ijntil he com- municates INTRODUCTION. B municates his doubts and difficulties through the channel of the public, and ballances in his mind the weight of the explanation and defence he may obferve in reply, fupported by fuch authority as may be adduced. For however Angular, wonderful, and aftonifhing fome things herein may ap- pear, yet the author folcmnly declares he has been guided folely by nature and truth, which, during the courfe of his life, as well as in this relation, he has always endeavored to purfue, and to pay implicit obedience to their venerable didates. On this principle alone he has at- tempted to folve every difficulty that oc- curred to him in his travels ; and fuch uncommon appearances, and ftrange phe- nomena, as to fome have feemed not to be eafily accounted for, he has always found more reconcilable to, and confif- tent with, the plain and fimple chain of events, regularly proceeding from na- tural caufes, than the imaginary fplendid B 3 embel- f ; '. r- 1 * i , i- ;'■ U •i i 14 i,' ^ II i' tA;i-|j H «wgi r f g! I'i it 'l (1 t! I" : I' n > .1 6 INTRODUCTION. embellifhments of fidion, however inge- nious and elegant. Should thefe Volumes be favorably re- ceived, and deemed to merit the notice and approbation of the public, he means to proceed uith a brief account of the late war, in regular progreflion, from its commencement down to the prefent pe- riod. If otherwife, he conceives the pub- lication of two volumes void of defert, is a fufficient obtrufion on the public, to whom, as well as to himfelf, it will be moll agreeable, and more difcreet, to can- cel or fupprefs the remainder. However, he trufts that a proper dif- tindion will be made between his capa- city and his good intentions, flattering himfelf, that what is wanting in the for- mer may be fupplied by the latter ; and will endeavour to atone for his defi- ciences in abilities, by the ftrideft can- dour and impartiality. On thefe grounds, therefore, he refls his expedations, and awaits the decifion. ffi: *.^ ■[ o u IN THE R UNITED STATES of AMERICA. I . In'' X' i i CHAP. I. Fir/} Appearance of Land. Capes of Virginia, Che' fapeak-Bay. Hampton-Roads. Mitfketocs. Norfolk* jfameS'River. Jatnes-Town, Plantations. IVil- Uamjburg, WE came in fight of land, on the fourth day of Auguft, in the fore- noon, in a fine day, with a clear ferene fky. It appeared at a diftance like the tops of the trees juft emerging above the horizon, on the furface of the water 5 and B4 as \i\ H fi i M ... '.\ \ , I! •rf I 8 A Tour in the !j i' ' j ¥ 'ii'i as the (hip approached arofe higher, but only the height of the pines, with which all the land on the Tea board is covered ; for the whole coaft is very low, and found- ings are found at a great diftance from the fliore, which gradually decreafe as you advance nearer the land. This regular decreafe of the foundings, and the change of colour in the water, are the only prefervatives of lliips, in the night and hazy weather, from running on this dangerous, ihallow, flat coaft, without perceiving it until too late ; for there is no light-houfe near the Capes of Virginia : a moft laudable intention of ereding one on Cape Charles having been fruftrated by a difagreement between the aflemblies or parliaments of Virginia and Maryland, at whofe joint expence it was to have been built arid fupported ; and by the commencement of the late inaufpi- cious hoftilities in America. We foon failed within the Capes of Virginia, Cape Henry and Cape Charles, which lail is an ifland named Smith's. Wc United States of America. g We paft Lynhaven Bay on our left, and the opening of the Chefapeak on the right, and in the evening anchored in Hamp- ton Road, which appears to be very fafe. The diftance between the Capes is a- bout twelve miles, but the vaft bay of Chefapeak widens after you enter, until it becomes about thirty miles over, near thirty-five Englifh leagues within land ; then the breadth decreafes from thence to the head of it, and is generally from fif- teen to five miles, which is the breadth of it at its extremity, where the Elk and the mighty river Sufquahannah fall into it, at about three hundred miles difiance from the fea, through the whole of which vafi: extent the tide ebbs and flows. The night being calm we were aflaulted by great numbers of mufketoes, a very noxious fly, which feems to be of the fpecies of gnats, but larger and more poifonous, leaving a hard tumor wherever they bite, with an intolerable and pain- ful itching ; they penetrate the fkin, fill themfelves with blood, and make their principal I'll W i|l: ■ I m I & 'i 10 A Tour in the \ , ^1:1, i Hi'' principal attacks in the night, accompa- nied by a fmall, fhrill, difagreeable note, the very found of which efFe£tually pre- vents you from flcep, after you have been once bit. On the day following, the captain of the fhip, Mr. R , and I went up Elizabeth River, in the yaul, to Norfolk, about twenty miles, where wc dined very agreeably, and returned that even- ing to the fhip in Hampton Road, fo that I had not at this time an opportu- nity of feeing much of the town. How- ever, it appears to be charmingly fituated at the forks of a very pleafant river, the Elizabeth, on the north-eaft: fide, Mr. Sprowle's little village of Gofport being on the fouth, and the pretty town of Portfmouth on the fouth-vveft fide, over again ft Norfolk, at the diflance of about eight hundred yards, which is the breadth of the river there -, with fufficient depth of water for a fhip of the line. Norfolk is a corporation, with a mayor, aldermen, &c. in a flourifhing flate of 7 im- ;' . I ' I, United States of America, 1 1 improvement, and increafing daily ; it contains about feven thoufand inhabitants, of all colours and denominations, of which perhaps more than two thoufand are whites. But it was by no means in fuch a ftatc of increafe and improvement as the more inland towns, at or near the falls of the great rivers ; thefe being the chief emporiums of trade and commerce for the large, populous, and extenfive back country, weft and fouth of them ; and, having alfo all the advantages of navigation, intercept the inland trade from Norfolk, which renders it, though flourifliing, yet only fo in an inferior degree. [Soon after the commencement of the late unhappy and ill-fated hofllllties in America, the beautiful town of Norfolk fell a facrifice to the miftaken fury and devaftations of civil war ; in an unfortu- nate meafure of the Britifh governor of Virginia, rendered excufable however, and even very juftifiable, by the circum- ftances !| I:! 1' I ' ' 1 i( 1 1 I ■ < 12 A lour in the v\ 1 Aances attending it ; and the more int'* prudent, criminal, and even vindidtive, favage depredations of a back- wood's mob of American foldiery, who feemed then to carry their unjuft, barbarous, and ill- grounded rcfentments againft all the low- country and fea-coaft; having propofed even to fpread defolation throughout the whole, merely becaufc it was within reach and command of the Britifh navy; and becaufe the principles and conduct of the inhabitants were more temperate and li- beral than theirs. The American foldiery, chiefly then back-woods riflemen, taking every op- portunity of firing from under the cover of the houfes and wharfs, upon the Britifli troops, and loyalifts who had been com- pelled to feek refuge on board the fhip- ping then in the river, by this means picking off a few individuals every day, in this fneaking, cowardly manner; a meiTage was fent them by his majefty's governor, the earl of Dunmore, who was then on board the fleet, requefting them to |r • United St at a of /hncrlciu i% to defift from fuch unjuflifiablc pracllccs, othcrwifc he (lioukl be coinpcilcd to hrc upon the town, perhaps to its dclh'udion, though very rekidtantly : but they per- filling in their defpicablc iinmilitary of- fences, he fent them orders to rCiHovc all the women and children out of the place by a limited time, when a cannonade would certainly be commenced upon the town ; > and the fhips of war were drawn near, and prepared for that purpofe. This being accordingly executed, and the enemy galling the troops from the warehoufes on the wharfs, thefe were obliged to be fet on lire to diflodge them, which was thus com- pletely effected ; but it was univerfally no- ticed, and particularly obferved by every perfon, that almoft at the fame inftant the flames broke out likewife in the back part of the town,fartheft from the (hipping; for the rebels had alfo fet fire to it, in many dif- ferent places themfelves, by order of the provincial congrefs of Virginia, by which means the conflagration foon became gene- ral and tremendous, and in a (hort time en- tirely I'" \ ' '1 I i^i' 1:..' ■\: i ' * 1 5 W'i i * M ' i||^ •I 14 -^ Tour in the tirely deftroyed, and confumed to aflies this fine town, the firft in Virginia in magni- tude, opulence, and navigation. The Americans not only burnt Nor- folk, but the village of Gofport, and a great part of the beautiful little town of Portfmouth alfo, fmce that time ; and, by an ad: of their legiflature, granted a compenfation in money to fuch per- fons as were well afFeded to their caufe, for the value of their property thus de- ftroyed.] ^ Oa the fixth, the fhip" weighed an- chor, and proceeded up James River. As the weather was extremely hot, I preferred going up in her to a journey by land ; which, from Norfolk to Richmond, at the falls of James River, is about an hundred and thirty miles. After pafling a great number of moft charming fituations on each fide of this beautiful river, we came to anchor before James Town, now a paltry place, not by any means deferving even the name of avil- United States of America. 1 5 a village, although once the metropolis of Virginia, and ftill pofiefiiiig feveral pri- vileges in confequence thereof, one of v^hich is fending a member to the afTem- bly, or parliament ; who is now Cham- pion Traverfe, efq. the proprietor of the whole town, and almoft all the land ad- jacent, and I believe there are no more voters than himfelf. On the feventh, Mr. R and I, having been furniftied with horfes by Mr. Traverfe, made an excurfion to Williimf- burg, which is but a few miles dillant ; perhaps eight or ten. The roads are excellent, the face of the country is level, the foil rather fandy, but the whole land appears to be one con- tinued immenfe foreft, interfperfed with openings where the trees have been cut down, and the ground is cultivated, of larger or lefs dimenfions : thefe are called plantations, and are generally from one to four or five miles diftant from each other, having a dwelling-houfe in the middle, with kitchens and out-houfes all detached ' *wil n . V t:; u i ■ V n %A:a J-';. ' \ \ \ '• \ ■A ■ ■ ,1' V II *■:• i- i:'! r ■■111 ■ "1 s6 A Tour in the detached ; at fome little dlftance there are always large peach and apple orchards^ &c.; and fcattered over the plantations are the tobacco houfes, large wooden edi- fices, for the cure of that grand flaple produce. We dined very agreeably at the Raleigh taYern, where we had exceeding good Madeira, and afterwards walked out to view the town, which is now the feat of government^ and metropolis of Virginia. CHAP. % \\^ tint ted SfaUs of America^ 1 7 C 11 A P. 11. Williamjburg* Races* Breed if Runntng-Horfes* ' 11 ■ ■■; WILLIAMSBURG is an inland town on the higheft land about the middle between the rivers of York, on the north, and James, on the fouth, at the diftance of feven miles from the neareft ; and is healthy for the climate. There is one handfome ftreet in it, juft a mile in length, where the view is ter- minated by a commanding object each way ; the Capitol, an elegant public build- ing, in which the aiTembly, or fenate, and courts of judicature are held, at one end of the ftreet ; and the college of William and Mary, an old monadic ftrudlure, at the other end. About the middle be- tween them, on the north fide, a little diftance retired from the (Ireet, (lands the palace, the refidence of the governor ; Vol. L C a large B«< I VI I ^ -fell jr. ii , I: ^ ,:• I': ■ I , I ^ ^':!i sfH. '•<:!■ U«1: i8 j4 Tour in the a large, commodious, and handfomc building. [Since the commencement of the late hoflilities in America, when the feat of war was in Virginia, about the time of, or foon after lord Cornwallis's furrender at York Town, the Americans converted the palace at Williamfburg into barracks for the accommodation of their troops; who, being by no means remarkable for cleannefs or care, by fome accident fet it on fire, by which it was entirely de- flroyed ; thus occafioned, as many ima- gine, by their negled. It has alfo been alledged, that fome loyalifts, provoked at feeing it converted to fuch vile purpofes, fo very difFerer : from the original inten- tion of the ftrudure ; and incenfed in the highefl: degree at beholding the houfe of the reprefentative of their fovereign thus polluted by the naftinefs, filth, and de- predations of the American foldiery, pri- vately fet iire to it in the night : and they • are I \ I i c \ t( v\ it ol oj if United States of America, 1 9 are not few who believe that to this hift caufe it owed its ruin.] AH the public edifices are built of brick, but of le generality of the houfes a: wood, chiefly painted white, and are every one detached from each other; which, with the ftreet deep with fand, (not being paved) makes a fingular appearance to an European ; and is very difagreeable to walk in, efpecially in fummer, when the rays of the fun are intenfely hot, and not at little increafed by the refledion of the white fand, wherein every ftep is almo# above the (hoe, and where there is no ihade or (helter to walk under, unlefs you carry an umbrella. There is a whimfical circumftance attends WiUiamfburg ; which is, a part of the town (that has been added to it fince it was firft built) having the ftrcets laid out in the form of a W. Williamfburg is alfo the county-town of James-city county ; where the courts of common pleas are held monthly, as C 2 they i1 1 % i 1 jil i 1 ,t 1 1 \ 1 i >> I k\ i ■■ ■k A' i i ' ( t ! ' ''A i 1 i {■ '■ J ■'ii ; i! ^ I I ^! i ip i ^'i! M i'i '■ K I' i • ■ ■ t 1 '-•.« i,'i|> * •.•:!' 20 j4 Tour in the they are alfo in every county in the co- lony j which amount to fixty-eight in number. The quarter feflions are alfo held quarterly in each county. Befides thefe, there are two courts of oyer and terminer held annually at Williamfburg ; and likewife two general courts in April and Odober, which receive and deter- mine appeals from every county, and all the inferior courts, as well as try orfginal caufes for fums above twenty pounds. Thefe, as alfo the courts of chancery, courts of admiralty, and aifemblies or parliaments, befides the college, occafion a great refort and concourfe of people to Williamfburg ; and are indeed the chiefs if not the whole, fupport of the place : for her fhare of commerce is very incon- fiderable, and (he does not pofTefs a fingle manufacture. There are races at Williamfburg twice » year ; that is, every fpring and fall, or autumh. Adjoining to the town is a very excellent courfe, for either two, three or four mile' heats. Their purfes are ge- neraUl-' ton- igle United States of America 2 1 gerally railed by fubfcription, and are gained by the horfe that wins two four- mile heat out of three ; they amount to an hundred pounds each for the firft day's running, and fifty pounds each every day after; the races commonly continuing for a week. There are alfo matches and fweepflrikes very often, for confiderable fums. Befidea thefe at Williamfburg, there are races eflablifhed annually, al- moft at every town and confiderable place in Virginia ; and frequent matches, on which large fums of money depend ; the inhabitants, almofl to a man, being quite devoted to the diverfion of horfe-racing. Very capital horfes are flarted here, fuch as would make no defpicable figure at Newmarket ; nor is their fpeed, bot- tom, or blood inferior to their appearance ; the gentlemen of Virginia fparing no pains, trouble, or cxpence in importing the bed (lock, and improving the excellence of the breed by proper an^ jwdiciop^ jzrqfling. C 3 Indeed B^t ', 11 i* \\t \\i lit I ' 1 al{* f I t hi I I lit' hi iflfi ■I 'i i! il yi Tour tit the Indeed nothing can be more elegant and beautiful than the horfes bred here, either for the turf, the field, the road, or the coach ; and they have always fine long, full, flowing tails ; but their car- riage horfes feldom are poffefled of that weight and power, which diftinguifti thofe of the fame kind in England. * Their flock is from old Cade, old Crab, old Partner, Regulus, Babraham, Bofphorus, Devonfhire Childers, the CuUen Arabian, the Cumberland Arabian, &c. in England ; and a horfe from Arabia, named the Bell- fize, which was imported into America, and is now in exiftence. In the fcuthern part of the colony, and in North Carolina, they are much attached to quarter~raci7igy which is always a match between two horfes, to run one quar- ter of a mile flreight out ; being merely an excurfion of fpeed ; and they have a breed that perff * m it with aftonifh- ing velocity, beating every other, for that diftance, with great eafe ; but they have no bottom. However, I am confident that erica, ac n bed atch quar- being they onifb- )r tbat T bave tfident tbat United States of A/nerica. a 3 that tbere is not a horfe in England, nor perhaps the whole world, that can excel them in rapid fpeed : and thefe likewife make excellent faddle horfes for the road. The Virginians, of all ranks and deno- minations, are exceflivcly fond of horfes, and efpecially thofe of the race breed. The gentlemen of fortune expend great fums on their finds, generally keeping hand- fome carriages, and feveral elegant fets of horfes, as well as others for the race and road : even the moft indigent perfon has his faddle -horfe, which he rides to every place, and on every occafion ; for in this country nobody walks on foot the fmalleft diftance, except when hunting : indeed a man will frequently go five miles to catch a horfe, to ride only one mile upon after- wards. In fhort, their horfes are their pleafure, and their pride. C4 CHAP. F IT H' \^^ t ■ I: ill f\ I r I •% \\- .»■ i I . .. m ! I' w I ! I' H A Tour in the CHAP. III. The different beautiful Situations, and Gentlemen*]; Seats^ on James River, I N the evening, Mr. R- and I were unfortunately feparated, occa- fioned by a very ridiculous and iingular accident ; the efFed of which had like to have been tragical enough to him. Jufl: when we were ready to return to the fhip, by fome miftake, wrong horfes were brought to the door ; and not obferving it, we mounted them : thefe horfes being very fpirited, and Mr. R— — , having bid adieu to the gentlemen with whom we dined, fuddenly clapped both his fpurs in his horfe-s fides, inadvertently, with great force; the horfe inflantly reared up, and fprung forwards, leaving poor R upon the ground, at the door, flat on hi^ back, with his fkull almofi fradlured. By this means the miflake in the change of our horfes was difcovered and redified ; but Mr. R— — * was fo much hurt, that he United States of America, 15 h€ was obliged to be blooded, and carried into the Raleigh again, where I left him ; and was thereby reduced to the neceiTity of returning alone to the fhip. On the ninth of Auguft the (hip got under weigh, and proceeded up the river, paffing the delightful fituations of Sandy- Point, Cabin-Point, Brandon, Flower dc Hundred, Maycox, &c. on the fouth fide ; and Swine- Yards, belonging to Mr. Cole, Colonel Byrd's beatuifulfeatof Weft- over, Colonel Harrifon's of Barclay, &c. on the north fide : we anchored oppofitc to City- Point, at the confluence of the Appamatox River and the James, and about an hundred and thirty miles within land, from the capes of Virginia. Here the fecond mate was carried on fliore to the houfe of a Mrs. Brown, hav- ing been for a confiderable time languilh- ing, and in great pain, occafioned by a violent contufion he received by a fall on the deck from the main-yard-arm, reef- ing the main-fail in a gale of wind ; and ^on after he ended his days there. As \ 1 i, 1 1 ; ■\ 1 \ I ^ 1 a r \ ill) it I 26 A Tour in the il iih- ^1' i I As the fliip was not to go much far- nlicr up, and was to receive great part of her cargo at this place, I hired a boat and four negroes, for one dollar and a half per day (about fix fhilJings and nine- pence fterling) ; and on the tenth I left the fhip moored, and proceeded up the river in the boat ; propofing to land ^at every place whcfe beauty of perfpedive, or fingular appearance of any kind, might ftrike the attention, or excite my curiofity. I had almoft omitted to mention an un- fortunate accivient that happened at this place, before I left the (hip. A young failor, having killed and cut up a fine large flurgeon, that had leaped out of the water and fallen into the boat, along fide of the fhip, which happens frequently here ; bringing in the laft piece himfelf, in his hand, his foot flipped oflF the gun- wale of the boat, between which and the fliip he fell into the river, and was never feen or heard of more. The principal fituations that com- manded my notice and admiration, were Shirley United States of America, 27 Shirley Hundred, a feat of Charles Car- ter, efq. at prcfent in occupation of Mr. Bowler Cock : this is indeed a charming places the buildings arc of brick, large, convenient, and expenfive, but now fall- ing to decay; they were ereded at a great charge, by Mr. Carter's father, who was fecretary of the colony, and this was his favourite feat of refideiicc. The prefent proprietor has a moft opulent fortune, and poflefles fuch a variety of feats, in fitualions fo exceedingly delightfuV ihat he overlooks this fvveet one of Shirley, and fuffers it to fall to ruin, although the buildings mull have coft an immenfe fum in conllruding 5 and would certainly be expenfive to keep in repair, which ex- pence, however, mufl be greatly increafed by this negle£t. Varina, the feat of Ryland Randolph, efq. a moft lovely and delightful fpot; an elegant building, but unfiniflied, oc- cafioned by the owner's verfatility of tafte, and perpetual alterations. Chat- ■ i: i t \ 1 . I ii ! U •I'i I ! •I' s\ I irmiiHi il'^iM ii lii :! I ' = f m .{ iii! 21; k ■i:i i 28 ji Tour in the Chatfworth, the feat of William Ran- dolph, efq. whofe father was furveyor- general of the fouthern diflrid of North- America, &c, is a very good houfe, with an agreeable perfpedive. A Mr. Mayho's ; a very pretty place alfo. All on the north fide of the James. On the fouth fide are the beautiful little towns of Bermuda Hundred, Of- born's, and Warwick : and a feat be- longing to a Mr. Gary, a lovely f^tuation, who has alfo erected fome extremely va- luable mills, iron-works, &c. of equal emolument and importance to himfelf and the community. They are fituated near the town of Warwick, about five miles below Richmond, and the falls of James-River. [Thefe valuable mills and iron works have been fet fire to, and entirely de- ftroyed, during the late unhappy war, jin 1781, in an expedition under the ^om- United States of America. 29 command of Brigadier General Ar- nold.] I flept on board the boat ; and on the eleventh, in the forenoon, landed at the town of Shokoes, at the falls of James- River, and immediately difcharged the boat. I then waited on Mr. -— .— , a mer- chant, at that place, on whom I had been been furniflied with letters of credit, &c. He was at home, and received me with kindnefs, attention, and friendfiiip. He offered me apartments in his houfe, which I accepted, and he Teemed fludious to ferve and amufe me. I. i i lil u., ' ' it J: ill ' 'II CHAP. 14! I I 'if* 3^ A Tour in the r 1 , M -1. m ^1! 1 1 i ■^i* CHAP. IV. Richmond. Falls of JameS'River^ &c. ■\r\ ■ ■• r. . f f A T this place the whole appearance . of the country undergoes a total change. From the fea to the falls, about one hundred and fifty-five miles, there is not a h^l^ to be feen ; fcarcely a;i emi- nence, being one continued flat level, without even a fingle ftone to be found ; •nothing but fand and fhells on the fhores, and the land confifts of loam, fand, and clay, but univerfally covered with woods. Here a ledge of rocks interrupts the whole flream of the river, for the length of feven miles ; during the courfe of which, that vaft current of water rufhes down, raging with impetuofity, tumb- ling and dafhing from rock to rock, with an aflonifliing roar, that is heard for many miles diftance. The land fuddenly fwells into hills of a great height, and abounds with c m United Stales of America. 3 1 with prodigious rocks, and large ftones, ^s well as trees. On the fummits of thofe hills, mod of which over-look, and many of thenx over-hang the falling torrent of the James, handfome houfes are built, which com- mand a wild, grand, and moft elegant perfpedlive. The James, here, is about half a. mile wide ; the tide flows up to the very rocks of the falls, w!ich continue to interrupt the current fo' . u length of feven miles above. There are feveral iflands in the river among the falls, which are chiefly covered with wood and rocks ; but are of fmall extent: the tide reaches the lower end of one of theie iflands, which is fervifeable in checking the violence of the torrent of the water in the falls, and thereby favours the paflage of the ferry boats below. There are three towns at this plhce. Richmond, the largeft, is below the falls, and is feparated only by a creek, named Shokoes, from the town of Shokoes, which joins If w- li lift t: t ii ■m ,r 1 li • ■, i ^i - f;H lii .11 /■M I I ri }' ',11 :;. ii ii 'V 1! m I , 1 ■, w If \iy i !|: 1 ; ( ( 32 A Tour in the joins the lower end of the falls ; thefe are both on the north fide of the river : on the fouth fide Hands the town of Chefterfield, beft known by the name of Rocky- Ridge, from its fituation. Veflels of fmall burthen come up to the rocks of the falls, and large (hips come within two miles of them to load. At James town, the river is between two and three miles wide; and juft above it is always frefh water : the breadth de- creafes gradually to the falls. Dmring my refidence at Richmond, I made feveral little excurfions around in the adjacent country, on vifits to feveral gentlemen, who honoured me with invitations. Among thofe, from whom I received particular attention and civilities, were Thomas Mann Randolph, of Tucka- hoe, efq. R. Good, of Chefterfield, efq. Mr. Gary, &c- I alfo rode as far as Weftham, a fmall town on the James, feven miles above Richmond, juft where the falls commence. Tobacco, the grand ftaple of 11 • a lis he United States of America. %% of Virginia, is navigated down the river from the back country to Weftham, inhogf- heads of a thoufand weight each, ready for exportation, every hogfhead upon two^ ca- noes laflied together ; then it is brought by land-carriage to Shokoes, or Rich- mond, as the falls totally intercept and preclude all communication by water for their continuance of feven miles. In floods, an immenfe body of water com.es down the James, which fwells to a great height and aftonifhing widenefs, overflowing all the low ground for many miles ; but at the falls, where the moun- tains arife abruptly on each fide, and con- fine the river within more narrow bounds, the noife, violence, and impetuofity of the torrent, is not to be defcribed. It is dread- fully tremenduotis and awful. It feems that once, when the river was in fuch a ftate, a man, who was bringing down his tobacco to market, inflead of landing at Weftham, being quite intoxi- cated with fpirituous liquor, was carried down the torrent ; and, amazing to think Vol. L D on I \ l! ■ \\' I i, h i,l I ..I I ! 1 I < \ iti ii 1 M i: \ ' { ^ ' ' ' ■ 3 .■ i ] _ 1 ? i ' t '■ 1 t 1 \ I li lip ^^ ' ;'• !|. Ml I; „ JiU '4> ' ;4i f (si 34 on ^ Tour in the ! arrived fafe at Shokocs warehoufe* wharf below, with his tobacco ; having been brought to the (hore, after he had got over all the falls, by boats fent out from thence to his afliftance, by thofe, who with aftonifhment and horror, ob- ferved him in his dreadful rapid defcent and paffage over them. When he was brought to the fhorci l^e was ftill in a ftate of infenfibility and flupefa^ion, oc- cafioned by inebriation and terror. This is* indeed one of the mod extra- ordinary accidents that has occurred, or perhaps was ever heard of; but I have no reafon to doubt the fad^t, as it v^as re-* lated to me, and vouched for, by fcveral perfons of credit and veracity, who were eye-witneffes of this fingular event. ',1 !" i ! il Ci k . I. . I . < HAP- I- i \: P- Unitcd States of America i C M A ^. V. n Ai tnhabUantSt Climate. Sky. 'Thunder and Ll^hlnln^t, • Fact of the Country. Bullfrogs. Strange and tre- mendous Sounds, Inchcintment* Negroes, TH E cuftoms and maimer of living , of moft of the white inhabitants here, I muft confefs, did not a little ifur-^ prife me ; being inadlve, languid, and enervating to the laft degree. Indeed the whole appearance of the country, aiid face of nature, is ftrikingly novel and charming to an European, ef- pecially to a Briton. The air, the Iky, the water, the lanci, and the inhabitants, being two- thirds blacks, are objects entirely different from all that he had been accuftomed to fee be- fore. The iky clear and ferene, very feldom over-caft, or any haze to be ob- feryed in the atmofphere ; the rains fall- ing in torrents, and the clouds immedi- ately difperfing. frequent dreadful thuh- D 2 itt \m M lii:| il i;i II 1 a? !ft <:-, If ^ '% ■I li- jl tl I . I < 'it ■'fit i^l J6 yf r^ o//r /« th^ der in loud contending peals ; li.under guAs happening often dally, and always within every two or three days, at this feafon of the year. Erufcations and '^nfhes of lightning, conflantly fucceeding each other, in quick and rapid traufitions. The air dry, and intenfely hot in the fummer, cold and piercing in the winter, and always keen and penetrating. During the night, thoufands of lights, like bright burning candles,being large winged infeds, called fire-flies, gliding through the air in every direction ; frequently vanifhing, and perpetually fucceeded by new ones. The rivers, large expances of water, of enormous extent, and fpreading under the eye as far as it can comprize ; nature here being on fuch a fcale, that what are called great rivers in Europe, are here conu- dered only as inconfiderable creeks or rivulets. The land, an immenfe foreft, extended on a flat plain, almofl with- out bounds ; or arifing into abrupt afcents, and at length fwelling into flu- pendous mountains,^ interfperfed with rocks reft, United States of America. 37 I rocks and precipices, yet covered with venerable trees, hoary with age, and tora with tempefts. The mountains fuddenly broken through, and fevered by mighty rivers, raging in torrents at the bottom of the tremendous chafm, or ghding in awful majeftic filence along the deep val- lies between them. The agriculture on the p jtations is different from every thing in Europe ; being either tobacco, three feet hip^h, with the plants a yard apart ; or Indian corn, at the diftance of fix feet h'^tween each ftalk, in regular ftreight rows, or avenues,frequently twelve or fifteen feet in height. While the mind is filled with aftonifh- ment, and novel objeds, all the fenfes arc gratified. The flowery (hrubs which over-fpread the, land, regale the fmell with odori- ferous perfumes : and fruits of ex^uifite relifh and flavour, delight the tafte, apd afford a moft grateful refrefliment. The prodigious multitude of green frogs, reptiles, and large infefls, on the D 3 trees, 'ii I i'l -*.i llll ' u I aW ' n ■j r r 1 "I . i. :l ' i 'I 38 -^ I'our in the trees, as well as the bull-frogs in the fvvamps, ponds, and places of water, dur- ing the rpring, fummer, and fall, make an inccfliint noife and clamour ; the bull- frogs, in particular, emitting a moft tre- mendous roar, louder than the bellow- ing of a bull, from the fimilarity of whofe voice they obtained their name; but their note is harfh, fonorous, and ab- rupt, frequently appearing to pronounce articulate founds, in ftriking refemblancc to the following words, Hogjloead tobacco* Knee deep. Ancle deep. Deeper and deeper, Piankitankt and many others ; but all equally grating and diflbnant. They fur- prife a man exceedingly, as he will hear their hoarfe, loud, bellowing clamor juft by him, and fometimes all around him, yet he cannot difcover from whence it proceeds; they being all covered in water, and juft raifing their mouth only a littli above the furface when they roa:* out, then inftantly draw it under agaiii. They ^ire of thf fi2;e pf ^ man's fop^ . 9 •,^i..i United ^taici of America* 39 Nor can you perceive the animals from whence the founds in the trees pro- ceed, they being moft efFedually hid among the leaves and branches. So that at firll this abfohitely appears to be a country of enchantments. As I obferved before, at leaft two- thirds of the inhabitants are negroes, whole difference of features and colour, and rank offenfive fmell, are extremely difagreeable and difguftful to Europeans : but, poor creatures ! they are all humi- lity and fubmiflion ; and it is the greateft pleafure of their lives, when they can pleafe the whites. You cannot underftand all of them, as great numbers, being Africans, are inca- pable of acquiring our language, and at bell but very imperfedly, if at all ; many of the others alfo fpeak a mixed '''aled between the Guinea and Englifh. It is fortunate for humanity, that thefe poor creatures poflefs fuch a fund of contentment and refignation in their D 4 minds j It U \^ i ' .'* ii 'i ; I' \\ \\\ \ \ 'i ) .■ . \ \\ 40 A Tour in the minds ; for they indeed feem to be the happieft inhabitants in America, not- withftanding the hardnefs of their fare, the feverity of their labour, and the un- kindnefs, ignominy, and often barbarity of their treatment. 1. \i !l i 'u!.' CHAP. i ■ i i > ■ ^1 . i ,1'. 1 ■ ' i United States of America, 4 \ CHAP. VI. Manner of Life of each Rank of the Inhabitants* TO give an idea of the manner. in \yhich a white man fpends his time in this country, a defcription is ne- ceflary of each degree in life. The gentleman of fortune rifes about nine o clock; he perhaps may make an excurfion to walk as far as his ilables to fee his horfes, which is feldom more than fifty yards from his houfe ; he returns to breakfall, between nine and ten, which is generally tea or coffee, bread and butter, and very thin flices of venifon- ham, or hung beef. He then lies down on a pallat, on the floor, in the coolefl: room in the houfe, in his (hirt and trou- fets only, with a negro at his head, nid another at his feet, to fan him, and keep off the flies ; between twelve and one he takes a draught of bombo, or toddy, ^ liquor compofed of water, fugar, r\xm% and 1 1 '■ « 1 ' I J' ■ . i- i I I i II'. i I 1 1 it Tl , P I: 42 ^ Taiir in the and nutmeg, which is made weak, and kept cool : he dines between two and three, and at every table, whatever elfe there may be, a ham and greens or cabbage, is always a ftanding difh; at dinner he drinks cyder, toddy, punch, port, claret, and madeira, which is gene- rally excellent here : having drank fome feiv glafles of wine after dinner, he re- turns to his pallat, with his two blacks to fan him, and continues to drink toddy, or fangaree, all the afternoon ; he does not always drink tea; between nine and ten in the evening, he eats a light fupper of milk and fruit, or wine, fugar, and fruit, &c. and almoft immediately retires to bed, for the night ; in which, if it be not furnifhed with mufketoe curtains, he is generally fo molefted with the heat, and harraffed and tormented with thofe pernicious mledts the mufketoes, that he receives very little refrefhment from fleep. This is his general way of living in his family, when he has no company. No 1 ■ ' i ■■.» 53 i fe United States of America. 43 No doubt many differ from it, feme in one refped, fome in another j but more follow it than do not. The lower, and many of the middling claffes, live very differently. A man in this line rifes in the morning about fix o'clock ; he then diinks a julap, made of .rum, water, and fugar, but very ftrong ; then he walks, or more gene- rally rides, round his plantation, views all his flock, and all his crop, breakfails about ten o'clock, on cold turkey, cold meat, fried homminy, toaft and cyder, tam, bread and butter, tea, coffee, or chocolate, which laft, however, is feldorai tafted but by the women j the reft of the day he fpends much in the fame manner before defcribed in a man of the firft rank, only cyder fupplies the place of wine at dinner, and he eats no fupper > they never even think of it. The women very feldom drink tea in the afternoon ; the men never. The poor negro flaves alone work hard, and f^re ftill harder. It is aftonifhing, ' and lll'l i" .1 i ,- ! I i'W ■ i 1 1 i 1 1 li' ' ' i! '; 1 ' \, 1 ' i J:' r l:f '* m , ■ ( ill'!* > r ■'* 44 !/? 7 which is generally every two or three years, they feldom lofe more tMn a week's work thereby, either in the delivery, or fuckling the child. •■ T ' In fobmiiTibn to injur jr and infults, they are likcwife obliged to be entirely paflive, nor dare iany of them refill, or even de- fend himfelf againft the whites, if they fhould attack him without the fmallefl: provocation; for the Itw direds a nc- groe's arm to be flruck off, who raifes it againfl a white perfon, fhould it be ozAf ill his own defence, againfl the moft wanton and wicked barbarity and out-^ rage. -' ' "-■' ':"' " •"'•--•i Yet notwithftandmg this degrading fitua^ion, and rigid feverity to which fate has fubje^ed this wretched race, they are certainly ' 1 i ! ? ■ . I , ill I i I f. » fi \ i. 1 ! i 1 i \':i ; "' ill !l' .. if 1 *!l i Ml 48 A Tour in the certainly devoid of care, and adually ap- pear jovial, contented, and happy. For- tunate it is indeed for them, that they are blefTed with this eafy, fatisfied difpofition of mind, elfe human nature, unequal to the weight, muft fink under the pref- fure of fuch complicated mifery and wretchednefs. •Having had occafion more than once to mention homminyt hoe-cake, &Cf it may not be improper at this time to ob- ferve, that homminy is an American diih, made of Indian corn, freed from the hufks, boiled whole, along with a fmall proportion of a large kind of French beans^ until it becomes almoft a pulp: it is in general ufe, and to my tafte, very agreeable. Hoe-cake is Indian corn, ground into meal, kneaded into dough, and baked on a hot, broad, iron hoe. This is alfo in conmion uic, and 10 my palate, extremely harfh and unpleafant. n», j'< CHAP. ' 'i United States cf America, 49 CHAP. VII. Houfes. Ordinarlesy or Inns, A Jirangc Jmrr.al. Black Snakes. Devour Frogs and ALce. Fujci' nate Birds in the Air. Flying Squirrels^ K 1 ''|| \ •' 5l' » \ i ; ;, 1 li!i :|'!!r:| ■ill ill: ! ■ 1 5» ji Tour in tie nlng behind a rock. I fought there, and every where for it immediately, to no purpofc, for I could not difcover even a trace thereof remaining. When I returned, I mentioned what I had fccn ; but no one, from my dcfcrip- tion, could intbrni me what animal it was ••»:- However, nothing is more common lie re than the black fnake. He is very bold and daring ; yet, to the human race, entirely harmlefs and inofFenfive ; nor is liis bite poifonous, and is as readily cured as the fcratch of a briar : notwithftanding which, it is faid, and I believe with truth, that he is mafter of all other fnakes ; even the rattle-fnake fubmits to him. This fuperiority arifes from the ftrength and power of his mufcles, for he infinuates himfelf in fpiral wreaths around his anta- gonifl, and then contrading,by that means conquers or kills him. His prey, for food, he fwallows whole. * For a defcription of this animal, fee chap, xiiii. 5 It Ujiited Suites oJAmcrka, 53 It is confidently reported, and iiniver- fally credited, that they devour fquirrels, and that they have been found with fquirrels whole in their bellies. I myfelf have feen them fwallow frogs of a very large fize. After the frog is almoft wholly in, if you ftrike the fnake, he will in- ftantly difgorge it, and the frog will leap away. The black fnakes are particularly fer- viceable in deflroying rats and mice, which they feek after very eagerly, and devour for food : for this purpofe, they are 6ven more ufeful than cats, becaufe, by their flender form and peculiar make, they are enabled to purfue thefe vermin into their lurking holes and hiding places, whicli they generally do, and thereby at once deftroy the whole progeny. But the Americans, one and all, have fuch an averfion and antipathy to the very appearance of the whole fpecies, that notwithftanding this kind of ferpents are abfolutely harmlels, and indeed extreme- ly ferviceable for the purpofes juft men- E 3 tioned, I ; / ! k »" I r« I !■ m\ ' . I I i' i I I I ll ,1 '} S:i 54- ^ "To'ur in the tioncd, yet they are as eager to kill and deflroy them, as the mofl: noxious, viru- lent, and deleterious of the fpccies, the rattle, moccaflbn, and horn-fnakes. I have heard many (1 range relations of the power of fnakes, in charming birds, and drawing them down out of the air, to. devour them, by a certain fafcination in their eyes. To thefe talcs I formerly gave no credit; but I have now had con- vidion of their truth, by frequent ocu- lar demonftration. I have obferved a little bird, fluttering in the air, within a fmall compafs, gra- dually dcfccnding until it came down on a bufh, then hopping from fpray to fpray, every time lower, conllantly fending forth a tremulous, doleful note, expreffive of dread and furprife, until at length it would drop into the jaws of a fnake on the ground, that was gaping open ready to devour it. On fuch occafions, I always ftruck the fnake, and the inflant he moved, the t -i. ^i| It United States of America. 5 5 bird became liberated from his fafcina- tion, Hying away with the greateft alert- nefs, and would chirp, and foar over my head in the air, for fome little diftance, as if grateful for its deliverance from fo formidable an enemy. This very extra- ordinary circumftance I have taken parti- cular notice of feveral different times. Squirrejs of many various kinds abound prodigioufly, but the grey fox-fquirrcls are the moil plenty, and mod common : you may fee them any where in the woods, and at any time, jumping from tree to tree, and making mod aflonifhing leaps, often fifteen, twenty, and fome- times thirty feet, from one branch to another. Thefe arc the largefl, but the flying-fquirrel, though much fmaller, jumps twice as far ; and indeed he takes fuch prodigious vaults, that he feems to fly, and appears to have wings, but they are only an expanfion of fome loofe fkin on each fide of him, which affords him fome little fupport in the air, and breaks E 4 his lit 1 1. 1 ' ! '■' »!! i \ h ♦ ■! M 4 .-, '■ J im\ A' n i TW i :( 1.1 . ii! if J 46 ^"1 Tctir in the his fall when he mifles his hold, which indeed is very feldom. The mod beautiful of the whole fpe- cics is the ground fquirrel, which isfmali, and moft delicately ilriped with qontrafts of darker and lighter Ihades. !■!: ! !'!1!4 i ' it W !■ • 11 'i i; ! ■ ■ \'\l rtfe Ul rr CHAP. !#: Ti t United States of Ai merica. S7 CHAP. viir. Appomattox, ^"^uies. JThe Rner 'pHE moft commanding and excel- ;;; Belvidera. an ele J°;^ t ;T„ ' fo?^ r. • ^^''^^' ^nd was alrnoft the tt srt; °' ^" '"^ '-'^ ^^^^ Juft below the falls there •ive fidicries ther on each fide of the are very lucra- there are many more on ^ r '""'' "' ferentr,lac., L;"??''^^>"«-dif- <^wners places, that yield great profit to the mil] On the fouth fid s and iron-wofks, which e are moft valuable are worked by I ' iL A '1 ,' ; .1 S r ,1 li. 'I 4; (!" \^ 1 '' I' ii n 11 ^1^ ss j^ Tour in the by means of a canal, cut from the adjoin^ ing falls of the James. The low grounds on the James are ex^ tr^mely rich and fertile, producing vaft quantities of Indian-corn, wheat, and to- bacco. The foil is of a dark redifli co- lour, and one foot and a half deep pure loam. The high land is of an inferior quality, yet fufficiently fertile to produce good crops of tobacco, wheat, and Indian corn ; fome of it is of a redifli colour, mixed with clay, which is the beft ; and the worft is of a light brown, intermixed with fand. The low grounds yield an increafe in wheat of twenty- five, thirty, and fome- times thirty- five bufliels, from one of feed : the high land from eight to fifteen for one. This is generally the produce of one acre. Much about the fame quan- tity of Indian corn is produced from an acre, according to the quality and excel- lence of the foil, though it does not re- quire il.il :i I 1 1 i.'iM ■:£■ 1 ; J quire n,ore than a peck of feed to plant >t. The produce of an acre in fi . t..rc of tobacco, in the beftLd ,'"'■ fixteen hundred nnd ^1/ ' ''''°"' ontheworft aCtfi'\P°""''^^^^'feht: weight r„\°"\^^'^''""''"-<^d pounds '-te\„^d:er:dX^;-;::nr^ =orn, with two, three and 1 ""' about five thoufand plants of tobacco Above the falls, the hifih land Z again tolerably level S "" beight to the fL / " ''J"al in fc c to the fummit of the firft hills ^ he towns of Richmond and S ' are in Hfnr.v^ '' Shokoes - ^o^zr:p- '1 '''''''^^'^' Chefterfidd. ^ ' " '" ''" ^"""'^ of On the twenty-eighth of Auguft J f,. atRichmond.hccau/cli 7 -^°** i could purchafe , ' '"^"'"""^ '^" ^^^' wLich was about twenty- I ! ■ i 1 if^r I \M\ 60 ^ Tvwr /;; i/jf 1 1 m- i( !! ^1| Jl 1 :t f ! rr '■ twenty-five miles diftant, and direflly in my way, I rode a horfe of Mr. 's, who prefled me to make ufe of him. I was fortunate in the company of a Mr. Buchanan, who was alfo going as far as Peterfburg. We eroded the James in the ferry-boat, early in the morning, rode through the towns of Rocky -bridge, and Warwick, which is about five miles from it. We halted at a town named Gfborn's, eight miles farther on, to bait our horfcs, after pafling Cheflcrficld county court- houfe> and a church, or chapel, at this little town. Here we dined, and in the afternoon, mounting our horfes, we ar- rived at Blandford, having crofTed the Ap- pamattox river, on a lofty wooden bridge, at the town of Pokahuntas. Here we put up at Boyd's, which is the befl houfe of public entertainment in the place. 1 fhall never forget the prodigious and in- cefTant noife and clamour that continually aflailed my ears, during the whole of this day'ii days ride. proceedin,f,.o„nhe„.een-fro,s, ^"d a multitude of other large inf.as o- the trees. a»d the bull-fJs ia t ! wa.ps d ,,,3„,^.^^ M.Lr,:7fhTrrrr - - a«o„.hed th^.7:Xo ';S-: libly difcover one of them • h^^ ri r of the hull ^ but thenoiie dous '°^' "^^ ^^''■"'"^'^'y tremen- Here, at the falls of the riv^r a -"-, a. three tow., lIl^B^^^ Peterfburg, and Pokahuntas. JeT f , '"^' ^"^' '^^^- ^^e falls, own of p rf "^"^^^ ^^^^^ rown ot Pokahuntas which ftnnH tlie north /]de of rh. ' ^^' the d.n.^.. f .Z^^^"^^'^^' "'-^"^ed after the daughter of the fai Peror, or chief, p ^^^o the Ind la ned Indian owhattan (which em- James], who gave all th f^ appellation of th IS e r4ver e land around th in marriage, with h pJace, as a portion ^^"^jUicr 1 OKahunti'? f/^ ^ vi /- "uuiab, to an ancef}or r.f 'heprefent Randolph and Boiling taf ^romwhKhan.ent royal blood, a branch of 1 1 I f J' ■•1 I I I I H i\ f t • ' 'if •< !■ ■I ^i ■ 62 ji Tour in the of the Randolphs, and the whole of the Boilings (two of the moll refpedlable houfes in Virginia), are a^^lually de- fcended. On the fouth fide of the river is the town of Peterlburg, fituated under a hill, amongft rocks, and is extremely un- healtay. A illtle diftance, perhaps half a mile below J Kjfi the fouth fide alfo of the Ap- pomattox, flands the charming pretty tow^i of Blandford, in a beautiful plain, on tlic river brink, on a very piearant and delightful fpot. The town of Pokahuntas is in CheRcr-' field county \ Peterfburg is in the county of Dinwiddle, in the lower corner ; and Blandford (lands in the upper end of Prince George'c county j but neither of them is a coiinty-town. The principal tobacco trade in America centers at Peterfburg, or Selling's Point, which it is generally called, fuiu the name of a family (a branch of whofe origin I have juft related), to which the greater Vmted States of America* ^3 greater part of the town and adjoining lands belong. It is fomcthing remarkable, that no child born at this place ever grew up to maturity, excepting the prefent proprie- tor, Mr. Boiling, whofe ieat over-looks Peterfburg and the adjacent country and river i which is occafioned by the infalu- brity of the air, and the extreme un- healthinefs of the fituation. There are alfo fome valuable mills in the vicinity of this place, eredled by Mr. Bannifttr, a very public fpirited man, who refidcs in an elegant houfe near Pe- terfburg, which are carried on by means of a canal, cut from the neighbouring falls of the Appamattox. The Appamattox is a fmall river, much about the fize of the Thames, and runs into the James at City Point, about twelve miles, In a dired line, below Blandford. Sailing vefiels, floops, fchooners, and flats, or lighters, come up to the bridge at the falls ; but (hips of burden take in their cargoes five and eight miles below. In i '^A-% I: il ,: i ■ i . i ( f 1 J 1! \ i ! F 1 li 64 A Tour In the In Blandford I found an excellent or- dinary at Boyd's, and a tolerably agreea- ble mixed company of ladies and gentle- men. Amongft the reft, were a couple of old gentlemen, one of whom was a ma- jor in the army, with gay young wives, who did not feem altogether at eafe, nor, in all probability, had they every reaibn to be fo : however, they afforded us diverfion and entertamment enough to obferve their various mancEuvres on both fides, or rather on all fides ; for each of the four appeared to be a commander in chief,* and to have different purfuits and objeds in view. %^\ f, i 1, r- C H A P. VniUd States ofAftitricai (i CHAP. IX. General CharaSlcry and greaf Hofpltalily of the Fir- gittiar.s. Number of InhahitaMs in Firginia^ THE Virgiftiang are genetoiis, ex- tremely hofpitable, and poffefd Very liberal fentiments. There is a greater diftitidloh fupported between the different claffes of life here, than perhaps in any of the reft of the colonies ; nor does that fpirit of equality, and levelling principle, whieh pervades the gfeateft part of America, prevail to fuch an extent in Virginia. However, there appears to be but three degrees of rank amongft all the inhabit t?nts, exclufive of the negroes. The firft confifts of gentlemen of the beft families and fortunes in the colony, who are here much mote refpedable and numerous than in any other province in America. Thefe in general have had a liberal education, pofiefs enlightened un- Vol. I. F derfland- 1 , j i % ^^ \ m\^ ,^- w :. it- .. .1 I t \n 'vis 66 ji Tour in the m- derflandings, and a thorough knowlcJg-e of the world, that furniflies them with an cal'c and freedom of manners and con- vcriation, highly to their advantage in exterior, which no vicifiltude of fortune or place can divcn: them of; they being adiKilly, according to my ideas, the moll agrccahle and befl companions, friends, and neighbours, that need be dciired. The greater number of them keep their carriages, and have handlbmc fervices of plate ; but they all, without exception, have Ihids, as well as fets of elegant and beautiful horfcs. Thofcof the fccond degree in rank are very numerous, being perhaps half the inhabitants, and confift of fuch a variety, lingularity, and mixture of charadlers, that tlie exatl: general criterion and lead- ing feature can fearcely be afcertained. However, they are generous, friendly, and hofpitable in the extreme ; but mixed with fuch an appearance of rudenefs, ferocity, and haughtinefs, which is in fadt only a want of polilh, occafioned by their ffi <; :ed |efs, in by heir United States of America, dy their deficiences in education, and ia knowledge uf mankind, as well as by their general intercourfe with flaves, over whom they are accuftomed to exerciie an harfh and abfoliitc command. Many of them poflefs fortunes fuperior to fome of the firft rank, but their fa- milies are not fo ancient, nJt refpe.i8«^c IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 1.1 I^|2j8 |25 lit 1^ m 14.0 m II ii^^^^^^i^B iiii^^^^^^s iiniB^^^^B < 6" ► Hiotographic ScMices Corporatioii ^^ ^'^ <^. 23 WiST MAIN STIKT WfBSTER,N.Y. I45M (716)S72-4S03 v\ ^ y o^ II U' I : f.'^^ J i ' ^ ^^ S 'I ■ M\ i f a. « ' i 68 ^ Tour in the and condudl, numbers of them are truly valuable members of fociety, and few, or none, deficient in the excellencies of the intellectual faculties, and a natural genius, whfch, though in a great mea- fure unimproved, is generally bright and fplendid in an uncommon degree. The third, or lower clafs of the people (who ever compofe the bulk of mankind], are in Virginia more few in number, in proportion to the reft of the inhabitants, than perhaps in any other country in the univerfe. Even thefe are kind, hofpita- ble, and generous ; yet illiberal, noify, and rude. They are much addided to inebriety, and averfe to labour. They are likewife over-burdened with aii impertinent and infuperable curiofity, that renders them peculiarly difagreeable and troublefome to ftrangers : yet thefe undelirable qualities they poflefs by no means in an equal degree with the gene- rality of the inhabitants of New Eng- land, whofe religion and government have XJnited States of America, 69 have encouraged, and indeed inflituted and edablifhed, a kind of inquifition, of forward impertinence and prying intru- fion, againft every perfon that may be compelled to pafs through that trouble- fome, illiberal country : from which de- fcription, however, there are no doubt many exceptions. To communicate an idea of the ge- neral hofpitality that prevails in Virginia, and indeed through all the fouthern pro- vinces, it may not be improper to repre- fent fome peculiar cufloms that are uni- verfal ; for inftance: If a traveller, even a negroe, obferves an orchard full of fine fruit, either ap- ples or peaches, in, or near his way, he alights, without ceremony, and fills his pockets, or even a bag, if he has one, without afking permiflion ; and if the proprietor fhould fee him, he is not in the leaft offended, but makes him perfedly welcome, and affifls him in choofing out the fineft fruit. F 3 But " \ Ti ) % \ 1% ,. ! 1^ Ni ! "■ 1 , \ '» , ( II IS' 'll-:^ ' i ; i i V {■■ I M \ \W 70 A Tour in the But this is lefs to be admired at, when it is confidered that there is no fale here jfor any kind of fruit, and the fineft peaches imaginable are fo abundant, that the inhabitants daily feed their hogs with them during the feafon. In the time of preffing cyder, if a tra- veller fhpuld call, to enquire his way, he is generally offered as much fine cyder as he can drink, is frequently requefted to |lay all night, and made heartily drunk in the bargain, if he choofes it. When a perfon of more genteel fi- gure than common calls at an ordinary (the name of their inns), for refrefhment and lodging for a night, as foon as any of the gentlemen of fortune in the neigh- bourhood hears of it, he either comes for him himfelf, or fends him a polite and prefling invitation to his houfe, where he meets with entertainment and accommo- dation, infinitely fuperior, in every re- fpe<5l, to what he could have received at the inn. If he fhould happen to be fa- tigued with travelling, he is treated in, the United States of America. j i the «ioft hofpitable and genteel manner ; and his fervants atid horfcs alfo fare plen- teoufly, for as long a time as he choofes to ftay. All this is done with the bell grace imaginable, without even a hint being thrown out of a curiofity or wifh to know his name. However, it liiiiift be acknowledged, that many of the fecond, and almoft all the lower clafs of the people, are ignorant in the extreme. Their fentiments, and all their ideas are illiberal, narrow, and contracted ; occa- iioned l>y their Inadive fituation, con- fined to a fmall 'npafs, and very li- mited fphere of i: owledge, wherein the fame obje(fls are ever prefented to their view, without any variation, change, or novelty, being thereby precluded from a more general intercourfe with the world, and the different members of fociety at large. About the commencement of the late imfortunate difturbances, and inaufpicious * hoftilitics, the American congrefs pre- F A tended li' ! i f ', I 9 ! ) 'I! ¥ I VW ! i I n. . it' i' ' M; ' 1 . )|i :• ' !> i* . ( ! ' 'i 1 It 72 ^ Tour in the tended to h^ve a calculation made of the numbers of all the inhabitants in each province and colony included within thpir domination, which they publiflied. But I have always concluded that'of- tenfible enumeration of theirs to be greatly exaggerated, purpofely to magnify their Tjefources, numbers, and prowefs. ' In that oflentatious calculation, Vir- ginia was reprefented tp contain fix hun- dred and fifty thoufand inhabitants i of which near two-thirds ^re blacks, I computed the true number of fouls \n Virginia to be then about five hundred thoufand iji the whole, witl^ a (imilar proportion of flaves included ; and they have certainly decreafed in popuUtioii fincc that tiipe* CHAP, p, XJntted States if Amtrka, 73 •- I I . ■( •• * I I ' t (' ^. \ r f i, IJ.,: •f.- f'i:^ i i: In hV""' 1 ^'1 ^ t| 86 yl Tour in the houfes, are all fwcpt away by the tor- rent, and caried down with the llream. There is a fingular phenomenon at- tends this river, which is, that during days, or feafons of rain, it does not rife any thing, or but very little beyond the common magnitude; but two or three days after the rain has ceafed, when the fky and fun are again become bright and fine, and the bad weather is forgotten, then, and not before^ the Roanoak begins to fwell, and encreafes with fuch rapidity and violence, that the inhabitants have fcarcely time to drive their cattle, horfes, Iheep, hogs, &c, off from the low- grounds up to the high, before the whole are overflowed -, and without this precau- tion all their live flock w^ould be fwept away and deftroyed, which frequently happens, notwithftanding every exertion and care. There is another peculiarity attends this river; that fs, the low grounds are generally higher, next the river fide, than where they adjoin the high-land j thus, by ■(■!: : r- it- ng rife the \ree the and ben, LS to )idlty have orfes, low- hole ecau- fwept ently ertion Ittends IS are than thus, by United St atei of America, 87 by means of guts, communicating from the river to the back part of the low- grounds, which is moftcommonly a miry fwamp with cauleways over it, the wa- ter of the floods is foon brought there, by which the retreat of every living creature is cut off in a very fliort time after the waters begin to encreafe, and confequently 'all included within mud inevitably perifli, fhould the inundation overfpread the whole. However, the floods feldom cover every fpot, there being fome particular places in the low grounds confiderably higher than the refl:, which, on fuch occafions, are ct-owded with the poor terrified ani- mals : but once every two or three years the Roanoak fwells feveral feet above the highefl: of thofe places. The Roanoak, or as it is fometimes called, the Morattuck, is above a quarter of a mile over at Halifax, but very deep, and is much wider many miles above. It empties itfelf into Albemarle Sound, at Edinton, where it is feven miles wide, G 4 and 1-1 1 1 |:' •1 i ■ ;-| t! V i li i ii\ u .. i! \\\\ I'll II ■ 11 : ill!! ■V i '3' » i t,i If p ii Ii 1i I '■ ( i . 1 '/^^ i I : i il 83 \/i Tour in the and •receives on the north fide, the Chowan-River, or Sound; which is formed l^y the confluence of the three rivers, Maherrin, Nottoway, and Blackwater, and is fomething more than two miles in hreadth. The communication with the fea, from this enormous body of water, is through Roanoak inlet, where there is a bar, lludtuating banks, and fhifting quick- fands, that prevent fhips of burden from entering this extenfive bay. I put up at Martin's, the bed houfe of public entertainment in Halifax. Here I difpofed of my black boy, who was in fa£t totally ufelefs to me ; but I gained ten pounds by my bargain. From this place I macle many excur- fions around it, and had the honour of yifiting, by invitation, every family of note, for a confiderable diftance in the ■ .■ . ■ ■ • • • vicinity. Being one of a party that was to pafs fome days on a jaunt in the country, I prppofed calling to take a view of the ^' ■ ^ - ' • • falh pafs the falh Vnitid Statei of Afiicrica. J? 9 falls of Roanoak. We were accompanied by Charles Eaton, efq. and Mr. W. Park, whole feats are in the neighlxrarhood of thefc falls. There was nothing remarkable to be obferved in them, only a prodighu^ body of water, dafliing and tumbling over rocks : but to thofe who have iccn the falls of the James, thefe are . no obje£t. There is a very extraordinary circum- ftance, however, attends thefe falfs every fpring, about the eighth of May; it is called the rock fight. This is occafioned by fuch amazing numbers of thofe fifhes, here called Bafs-Rocks, coming up to the falls at the fame time to fpawn, that a dog thrown into the river then, would not be able to fwim acrofs, nor could live in it one quarter of an hour : you may adually fee them crowded thick upon each other, even to the furface of the water. This fmgular phenomenon continues for three days, but on one of thefe days, iii particular, M ■ I ,1' \ ' . I m m ^ 1 1 ^ I . I ri li i i- 1 h ' 1 n i I r: •:,! tM h •I II • i r mH I' I 'i J t 'i I r, • 90 jd Tour in tie particular, the agitation of the water Is moft violent, the whole river being i/i a foam. There are many valuable fiflierien at, and in the vicinity of Halifax, below the falls, on each fide of the river. During this excurfion we called at Mount Pleafant, the feat of — — ^ Daw ion, efq. on the banks of the Roan- cak, about eighceen miles above Halifax, and in returning ftayed fome days at the feats of Mr, Eaton, and Mr. Park. About a mile out of Halifax town is a creek named Quankey (the Indian ap- pellation for red paint, with which it a- bounds), with an exceeding lofty bridge thrown over it, built of timber, on the fouth fide of which is the feat of a Mr. Nicholas Long, where we frequently walked out in the mornings and even- ings to drink cow's milk, which was there excellent. About five or fix njiles farther on, in the fame diredion, is a confiderable fcttlement, upon a pretty large water-courfe, named the f . 1 United Slates of America. 91 the Marlh, where wu fevcral times went, on invitation from Alexander M*Colloch, cfq. a gentleman of confidcrahle note, and Archibald Hamilton, cfc^.^ a mer- chant of eminence, who carried on a very extenfive and valuable commerce in Virginia, as well as in North Carolina; and we were entertained with great hof- pitality and politenefs b'y each of them. We vifited Willie Jones, efq. dodlor Cathcart's, William Williams, efq. ^c. among many other gentlemen's feats, and met with a moft courteous and friendly reception from all. * This gentleman's brother, lieutenant colonel John Hamilton, is now in the Britifli fervlce, and commanded a provincial corps, named the North Ca- rolina loyaliils, having behaved with great gallan- try, both under the eail of Cornwallis and lord |lawdon« CHAP. ■-'■ « i ♦ i i : ' ■! ■ 1 "i ■ I' I iip ' > !♦ f I 92 A Tour in the c H A P. xir. Lofty Timber. Afethod of clearing Land, fV^ods on Fire. Dreadful Conflagrations. TH E low grounds of Roanoak are extremely rich and fertile, but in general too light and fandy for the cul- ture of wheat, which here grows much too luxuriant and high, whereby it falls and lodges before the ears fill and ripen. Tfao foil is a fine black loam, for feveral feet deep, and is indeed inexhauflible, but extremely fubjcdl to inundations, which fweep away whole inclofures, as well as the crops9 and often leave the land covered with wrecks of the flood, and incumbered with vaft quantities of large trees, brought down by the tor- rent. The low-grounds are generally from a quarter to a mile wide ; and it is ob- fervable, for the whole length of the Roanoak, that the low-grounds are al- ways • ? ;r i United States oj ji^erXit. fj ways on one fide of the ilver only, iiever on both together, but >ill proiuifcuoufly : thus, when the low grounds are on the north fide, there are high lands on the fouth ; and where the low grounds arc on the fouth fide, the land on the north fide is high, almofl fiufli to the brink of the river. It is remarkable alfo, that wherever the high lands join the river, they arc rich and fertile, but where they join the low grounds only, they are of a very inferior quality. The timber is of an immenfe bulk on the low grounds, and confifts of white and yellow poplars, black wallnut, horn- beam, red bud, fweet gum, dog wood, fycamores, oaks, afli, beech, elm, G?r. On the rich high land, it confifts of hickory, faflafrafs, oaks, &c. and on the inferior high land, of lofty pines, of a great height, mixed with fcrubby oaks, black-gum, and maple. In this part of America there are feven different fpecies of oak, viz. black-oak, white- . ^ i- h\ I! I i iii , : , ! i I ti ■> I * ». w- ti ■ 111 : . \m\- IJ J- .. .f :■:! :! f :! i|l:i^Ji 't..:: i * 1^ n i V. ii4 94 u^ 7d?«r /« /^^ white-oak, red-oak, Spanifli-oak, willow- oak, live-oak, and fcrubby oak. The appearance and colour of the foil in the beft high lands, is dark brown, "w^ith a flight tinge of red, 'and covered with tall timber. That of the worfl is whitifh-brown, either very fandy and light, or ftifF, wet, and livery, with low, crooked timber, excepting the pines, which generally grow large, tall, and ftraight every where, unlefi they are crowded together. But the worfl timber^ on the worfl land, makes a better appear- ance, and is larger than the trees in St. James's and Hyde-parks. The general mode of clearing the land in this couBtry, where timber is of no value, and labour is of great, is by cut- ting a circle round the tree, through the bark, quite to the wood, before the fap rifes, which kills it ; and they cultivate the ground below immediately, leaving the trees to rot (landing, which happens within a very few years, and they never bear leaves more. A large large United States of America, 95 A large field in this fituation, makes a moft fingiilar, ftriking, and tremendous appearance : it would feem indeed dan- gerous to walk in it, as the trees are of a prodigious height and magnitude -, yaft limbs, and branches of enormous [vlq impending in awful ruins, from a great height, fometimes breaking off, and fre- quently whole trees falling to the ground, with a hor-rible crafli, the found of which Is increafed and protradled by the reverbera- tion of the furrounding echoes. Yet, not- withftanding this apparent danger, very few accidents ever happen from it. I nevpr heard of any excepting to beafls. When the timber is cut down, or falls, they faw the fmaller trees in pieces, and heap ihem up together in huge piles, and in many different places, where they fet fire to them in the winter, at which time the whole country around appears in a blaze ; and the atmofphere is tlien extremely incommoded, and totally pervaded with fmoak. For 1 ' y \ I. P ! ill I ;.. 'fi III ■I" 1 V I!'' n n if- '.; i r um *M iM: '1 ' ' ■\ 1 ■ jl I i' » i. il i M Aid 96 yl Tour in the For very frequently the large, dry# and almoft rotten ftanding timber, catcheis fire, and blazes with great fury : the fire is alfo communicated to the leaves on the ground, in the furrounding woods, which are there accumulated to a great depth, by falling from the trees to the earth, where they have been encreafing, ftratum fuper Jlratum^ from the moft remote pe- riod of time; being very dry and com- budible, they inftantly catch fire hke tinder ; the conflagration quickly fpreads many miles on every fide, and at length becomes general and dreadfully tremen- dous ; for there is no poffibility of ex- tinguifhing, or reftraining the violence and velocity of the devouring fiames, which deftroy and confume fences, in- clofures, timber, and all vegetation ; driving even the wild beads before them in flocks ; and their progrefs, at length, is only terminated by fome large river, or by heavy rains. This United States of America^ ^j^ This has induced the legiflature to en- deavour to guard againft fuch alarming accidents, by pafling aifts to prevent fet- ^ ting fire to the woods, Gfr. notwith- ilanding which, thefe terrible conflagra- tions are ftill frequent every year, c niiilii \ 't-i' f !■ >! W- k\ Vol. I. H CHAP. K 'i \t\ %. '\ \^ > h| 98 A Tour in the n li II •n r ■ I? CHAP. XIII. Jnhahltants of the Country and of the Towns, dlajjes of People, Stores. Planters, Methods of Trade and Commerce. t THE inhabitants of this part of America may be comprehended in a very few claffes. All in the country, without exception, are planters, flore-keepers or perfons in trade, and hunters : thefe laft are chiefly confined to the back country and frontiers next the Indians. In the towns there are fome few mechanics, furgeons, lawyers, (lore- keepers or perfons in the commercial line, and tavern-keepers. However, the generality of the towns are fo inconfiderable, that in England they would fcarcely acquire the appella- tion of villages. The different diftind branches of ma- nufacturers, fuch as hofiersi haberdafhers, 7 clothiers, r ■ ri Untied States of America, 99 clothiers, linenTdrapers, grocers, ftatlo- ners, &e, are not known here ; they are all comprehended in the fingle name and occupation of merchant, or ftore« keeper. /; . ; ... • ^ What are called (hops in England, are known here, by the appellation of (lores, and fupply the inhabitants with every in* dividual article neceffary in life, fuch as linens, woollens, filks, paper, books, iron, cutlery, hats, (lockings, (hoes, wines, fpi- rits, fugars, &c, and even jewelry ; for which in return they receive tobacco, fkins, furs, cotton, butter, flour, ^c* in confiderable quantities at a time, being obliged to give a year's credit. By this it appears, that there is but little fpecie in circulation ; indeed there is no great occafion for it 5 for a planter raifes his own meats, beef, and bacon, his own corn and bread, his drink, cyder, and brandy, his fruit, apples, peaches, (^c, and great part of his cloathing, which is cotton. H 2 He II: If I 1 i i: i t « 1: ; 31.'. f If % I \%A .rli: {■ ■ i til > . 11. i, ■<■. ill 8 ■ i ■ ■■ * ' ^ 1 1 > Wii- ; j Hi 1 ; .. i'i •, ; 100 A Tour in the He has no market to repair to but the neareft ftore ; which chiefly fupplies him v^ith finery, befides the ufeful and neceflary articles for agriculture, and what little clothing his flaves require, for which he pays his crop of tobacco, or whatever elfe may be his ftaple produce, and is always twelve months in arrear. mi i\ t:\ } 11 I 1 ,; li < '1. ^^2^ kuik. CHAP. i ff United States of Afnerica, i o i CHAP. XIV. Tar burg. Attacked hy an itinerant New-light Preacher, Got Loji. Strange Ignorance and uncouth Appear- ance of the Inhabitants, In/iance of extrao''dinary Hofpitality and Benevolence. Chowan Sound. Moc* 1 cojfon Snakes. Rattle»Snakcs. Cure for their Bite. I Made an excurfion to a little town, named Tarburg : it is not half fo large as Halifax, being a very infignifi- cant place indeed. . I was entertained by a Mr. Hall, the ' night I remained in this place, and re- turned to Halifax next day. Tarburg is about forty miles due fouth from Halifax, and has not been built many years. The chief produce around this place is tar; Indian corn, and hogs. There is a large wooden bridge over Tar-river, at this town, which is very high and wide, yet feveral as good have been carried away by the floods, ,; H 3 I made i I % \ < ^ ■ ■I';.' li m I; \\\ 1 ) ',! . i ■,il . '':( hi .1 j : ml i .-i' ■• : r i ■'! i ;., 11 IC2 j§ Tour in the I!. hi I made another peregrination, which on account of the fingularity of the ad- ventures therein, I Ihall relate. It was to Chowan- found. I fet out from Halifax, and rode along (down the fouth fide of the Roanoak, as far as Pul ham's ferry (about fifteen miles below the town), where I crofled the river, and that evening reached Mat^ IhetV Btickle's ordinary. " '' Here I found tolerable accommoda- tions j but had to defend myfelf againft the formidable attacks of a new-light itinerant preacher, who had t)erverted this family, AS well as mofl of the inhabitants iil the vicinity ; and after exhaufting all the fire of his artillery, cant, and pretended in- fpiration, upon me in vain, he very gravely and formally concluded, and pro- nounced with great folen^nity^ that I was an obftinate unbeliever, and that my hour of receiving light and divine grace was not yet arrived. ; ; ■ : / ji i.; ; Having rode thirty- fix mil^s that day, J fet oi|t jiext morning, and proceeded through ■f « '\k ■;!i; f |t day, :ceded IrougH United States of America, 103 through the dreary pines, which compofe almoil all the woods that grow down this way ; and about twelve o'clock, following a path that led me out of my road, 1 got entirely bewildered and loft. Being extremely fatigued, hungry, and dry, I called at feveral miferable hovels, at the diftances of five or fix miles afun- der, but could neither obtain diredions on my way, or any kind of refre(hment ; even the water was fo very ill tafted, and infalubrious, that it could fcarcely be drank. ' = ^ - ' ' - I rode on in this miferable dilemma and precarious fituation, among thefc ig- norant wretches, until night approached, when they all refufed to permit me to lodge under their ihelters : *' Wonder- ** ing (as they faid) where I came from, or why I fhould come there, where nobody comes ; but (telling me) if [ could get to Mr. Tyers's, about fevcn miles off, I might get quarters ; for he often had ftrange, outlandilh folks to lodge at his houfe ; and was a rich c« (i u <( U (( H4 C( man, II 1 ■', I . I: !-J! i I \ V ^ \ I rtliliu m ■ifi M 'Ii M <: i I. ■h i 104 ji Tour in the *^ man, and bad a mill, and a black-r •♦ fmith's fliop. and a ftill." Thcfe people are the moft wretchedly Ignorant of any I ever met with. They could not tell me the name of the place, county, or parilh they refided in, nor any other place in the adjacent ccntry ; neither could they furnifli me with any directions, by which I might again dif- cover and afcertain the right way. Their appearance alfo is equally fordid and mean, being of a fallow complexion and yellowifh hue, almofl as tawney a9 mulattoes, with the fmoak of che light- wood (the roots and knots of pine, fo pamed here), which is their whole fuel, clothed in potton r^gs, that had been once dyed of fomje colour, and all en- veloped in dirt and naflinefs, < With much perfuafion, | procured one of thefe lumps of mortality to accom- pany me as a guide to this Mr. Tyers's, \yhere, after much difficulty, and no fmall hazard in paffing oyer feyeral deep and 1 L'l United States of jdmerica, 105 miry fwamps, I at length arrived, a little after dark. Here I obtained ample compenfation for the churliflinefs of thofe ignorant creatures whom I had been among, by the hearty welcome, and kind hofpitable entertainment I received from Mr. Tyers, who appears to be a little monarch in this domain, being the only magiftrate in this place for thirty miles around, a; d, I had almofl pronounced, the only in* telligent being. His houfe was the feat of plenty and plainnefs, mirth and good-humour, and genuine hofpitality without oftentation ; but entirely out of the way from all public roads. . Here I found a large table loaded with fat roafted turkies, geefe^ and ducks, boiled fowls, large hams, hung-beef, barbicued pig, &c. enough for five-and twenty nien. Mr. Tyers told me, that it was but ieldom he was favoured with the com- pany of any ftrangers; but when he was fo \ i' i !'iU* i!i •i I ■IS: ,.', » ( ! f i' 'Ir if • 111 io6 yf Tour in the il \ 1i '•■'. 'i 1 ' . i 1 1 . ' !• j. , 1 ■ (1 . , ■ ! fo fortunate, it always afforded him great plcafiire to entertain them, bccaufe he was fcnfiblc that they could obtain no refreshment any where near him, and for that reafon, he had given directions to the inhabitants for twenty miles ag- round him, to fend all ftrangers to his houfe. V Mr. Tyers, with a benevolence and grace that would do honour to any fta- tion, mounted his horfe, next morning, to accompany me for the day; both to fliew me the way, and the country. We arrived at a ferry on Chowan-river, or found (named Cotton's): it is three miles over ; we croffed it, and rode along upon a wooden caufeway, through a marfh, which is here called a poccofon, growing thick with tall reeds, near three miles over. Down this way I alfo bbferved great numbers of cyprefs trees, tall, ftraight, and lofty, in many of the fwamps and Jow grounds ; befides multitudes of fm- gular United States of America, 1 07 gular excrcflences, named cyprcfd knees* which make a very odd appearance, arif- ing in the form of knees, out of the moil miry places. We then returned, and reached my old fandlified landlord Matthew Brickle^s, that night, where Mr. Tyers flayed alfo ; and in the morning we parted : he return- ing to his houfe, the manfion of benevo- lence and virtue ; and I to Halifax, hear- tily tired, and fick of my excurfion. -'' I cannot omit obferving a fingular and V6ry difagrecable fight I noticed in paffing Chowan- river : it was numbers of large ferpents, lying upon logs and fallen treea in the river, bafking themfelves in the lun. ' ' ■ ■ ■■ ^ ^v-i-/ • . ',- ^'- ' r tt feems this marlh, morafs, or poc- jCofbn, as fuch places are named here, abounds with thefe noxious difguAful creatures. Moft of them were of the kind called moccofTon fnakes, as large as the rattle-fnake, but thicker, fhorter, and jdeftitute of rattles, which renders them more ...t I : I I I il \ ' 1; • H\ io8 A 'Tour in the ; if?! ;■!, Ijl; li \ \ f ■I ! ' in?- 11 ,;|. i: III m" \ more dangerous, as by this means they bite without previous warning, which the rattle-fnake nev^r does, and their bite is equally poifonous and fatal; fome fay more fo. They are beautifully fpcckled, juft in the fame manner as the rattle-fnake, though they appear duller, the colours of each being the fame, but thofe of the moccoflbns not fo bright; for the fmii« litude between them is fo very ftrong, that thefe are generally reckoned the fe- male rattle fnakes, by the more ignorant inhabitants, , ;, , i Although the bite of both thefe fnakes have always proved certain death, yet it is furprifing to obfcrve, that the inhabi- tants are under very flender apprehen- fions from them: indeed they feem to djreadthemno more thap any other ferpent. However, all the Americans appear to have a particular antipathy to the whole fpecies. It has but very lately been difcovered, that there is a ren^edy of efficacy for the bite >i : I United States of America, 109 bite of thofe fnakes, and an antidote a- gainft their poifon. This is equal quantities of the juice of hore-hound and plantain, adminiftered internally, largely and frequently, and poultices, .of the bruifed plants applied to the wound. It was a poor negroe flave that fir ft difcovered this valuable fovereign remedy j and the aflembly, or parliament of North- Carolina, rewarded him with his freedom, and two hundred pounds for divulging it. A laudable example to governments, and an inftance of their fuperior huma- nity ; which will for ever refledl upon them the higheft honour. Notwithftanding this plain and fimple remedy may be readily obtained, and eafily adminiftered by the moft ignorant, as both horehound and plantain grow fpontaneoufly near almoft every houfe, and in moft places where the land has been cleared of woods ; yet the knowledge of this great benefit to be derived from them has extended but very little, oecafioned by II \^ v\ I ■' ! f f • III! *■ ■!■ S^ no A Tour in the by the fmall intercourfe, and very limited communication there is in general be* tween the thinly ^nd diftantly fcattered inhabitants of this ^ide-fpread country ; fo that from this ignorance, the bite of thefe noxious and deadly ferp^nts con* tinue dill to prove almoft at fatal aa fvcr. m CHAP. \M\l i i United States of America. Ill AP- C H A P- XV. Extraordinary ffoman. American Central an Inn* keeper. Dreadful Thunder-clap, Simplicity of the Negroes, An extraordinary Inflance thereof, ABOUT the beginning of Novem- ber i departed from Halifax, where with great fatisfadtion I had enjoyed a very agreeable focicty^ on my route to Hillf- boroughj which is juil one hundred and twenty-two miles diftant. I called at Edmundfon's ordinary to bait my horfe, and to breakfaO: \ which is about ten or eleven miles from Halifax. At this houfe I faw the large ft and ftiongeft woman, perhaps, in the world : {he was fix feet two inches and a half In height, well built in proportion, ftrong, robuft, and mu&ular as a man of the fame ilature. She pofleffed a boldnefs and fpirit inferior to no man ; and there was no bully, bruifer, wreftler, or any per- fon that excelled in athletic power and agility. J ^ ,i ^? i Vil . 1 1' ' '!i.S' I ' i i' 112 A Tour in ihd \i \l I: f !'■• !:1 ll ■ i ■41 '1,1 1 ' . |l. If >!■! r agility, for fifty miles around, that fhfi had not complimented with a fair and complete drubbing ; in fhort, flie was a perfect virago, of great courage and af- tonilhing flrength and ill nature. I fubmitted to fome fmall impofition in her charge, rather than enter the lifts With her in difpute, and run the rifque of experiencing her prowefs ; for indeed this is only a contribution flie conftantly levies or exacfls upon all that frequent this houfe, of which fhe is mafter as well as miftrefs, her infignificant hufband be- ing an abfolute cypher. Having received an invitation to fpend fome days with Thomas Eaton, efq. at his frat on the banks of the Roanoak, twenty- eight miles above Halifax, I ar- rived there to dinner. It is pleafantly fituated on the fouth fide of the river, which is one half wider here than at Halifax. There is a very public ferry at this place, belonging to Mr. Eaton, and of great emolument to him. < v . The ]\ '% .,/i'l jmm Urn fed States of America, 113 I The low grounds are more exten fi vc here than any where elfe on the Roanoak. Mr. Eaton poflefles a very fine eftate : this plantation alone is worth at leaft three thoufand pounds, containing about fifteen hundred acres ; yg t his father purchafed the whole for thirty pounds. With fuch aftonifhing rapidity has the value of landed property increafed in this province. During the few days that I remained at Mr. Eaton's, we made many pleafant ex- curfions in the vicinity, on vifits to every perfon of any note. In a little emigration to Ofborn Jef- feries's, efq* on the banks of Tar-River* my horfe falling lame, obliged us to call and make fome ftay at an ordinary, inn, or tavern, at Bute county court- houfe, kept by one Jethroe Sumner, where we found an excellent dinner as well as an agreeable facetious hoft. [This inn-keeper fias diftinguifhed him- felf in the courfe of the late war, being VaL. I. I the ! I : ■ m n\ f Mil :! . I m ■\ ■• i; '"hi I ; '"^ il 'i '1 fill >i lit iJji:- fi !ii^ i: 14 A Tour in the the general Sumner, of the American army, who has been fo ai \ iiil'P i« i l» if • pfs 116 ^ Tour in the ! ' I I' !^' i \i I \H ■ i. ' , (it , ;■! ■ ■n I, 1 : '■ i 1 r I 1 ■f !'■ ?h I :: !i . : I manner, for a vaft diftance : it is fifteen miles above Eaton's ferry, and at this place the river is more than half a mile wide: it is fordable only during one month in the drieft feafon of the year, and even then it is extremely hazardous and difficult ; the water being never lefs than four feet deep, and the current very rapid. The land on each fide of the river at this place is broken and hilly, befides being very flerile and poor in quality. The weather here, at this feafon of the year, is really charming, neither too cold, nor much incommoded with heat ; the air and Iky being always dear, bright, and ferene, and thunder and florms much lefs frequent, . I forgot to mention, that while I was at Mr. Eaton's, one morning having arofe very early, ft? iding at the door, I ob- ferved a fingle fmall black cloud, and not another, of any kind, to be feen in the hemifphere, the iky being a pure bright azure: that inftant, all on a fuddcn, there '■■♦ A uhi United States of America, 117 there came the moft violent and tremen- dous thunder-clap that ever I remember to have heard; the lightning ftruck Mr. Eaton's kitchen, fplit down the chimney, performed a multitude of fantaftic freaks of electricity, and killed two negroe men, but lid np hurt to two infants, then in their arms. / This was accounted the more extraor- dinary, as there was only that fingle ex- plofion : and in the moft violent thunder florms, when peals fucceed each other, in loud cpntention, for a confiderable dura- tion of time, any accident happening therefrom is feldom ever heard of; only large, lofty trees in the woods are fre-^ quently fplit in (hivers, from top to bot- tom, and fet on fire by the lightning on fuch occafions. Both Mr. Alexander and Mr. Eaton poflefs excellent plantations, rich, fertile, and very valuable ; they are both great and eminent planters, and value them- felves highly upoft their fkill, their ia- duftry, and their fuperior crops. At i'i' 1 ■ iitl* i f !■ m^ i v. ■ _ \ i r 1 Jill ! II ; I. I ) ■ I.! m : •!B ^ ,' !■ I', ■ ;! ( tf '"Mill E 'Ik ^ I ]■ 11= . i} >i ^ ii3 ji Tour in the At xMr. Eaton's I faw the large ft turnip that I can rccollcdl ever to have heard of: it was four feet eight inches in circum- ference, but was of the iiat fpungy kind, and not at all thick in proportion. This turnip was not cultivated alone, but grew in a large field unmanured, promilcuouf* 1y with many thoufands more, numbers of which were perhaps j^ large as this, for I meafured it myfelf in the field. I fhall here relate a trifling, or rather diverting circumftance that may be in- terefting to fome, by evincing the great fimplicity of the blacks. ,'' j-'r-t. It was about the middle of the day, which happened to be uncommonly hot and fultry ; I was much indifpofed and reduced very weak with an intermittent fe^cr ; ^ After waiting until the heat ' of the weather and the fever had almoft over- come mCj I refolved to walk dowoj along the fide of the river, until I fliould meet or find him ; as I apprehended he might be afleep, which all negroes are extreme- ly addided to : but in this attempt I found the utmoft difficulty, from the almoil in- fuperable impediments of trees fallen, and impending over the water, deep miry foil and leaves that funk to my knees every ftep, impenetrable briars and under- wood, black muddy gutts from the ri- ver, which compelled me to make cir- cuits of half a mile to get round each of them, and innumerable fwarms of I 4 mufl^e- tl h^^\k i,i ? 11 'I ' I V f ■■! f f» : f ,i I i ', ■'14 120 u^ Tour in the mufketoes, ticks, poifonous infcds, and fnakes. Every quarter of a mile I loudly called him, but received no anfwer. Frequently quite overpowered with weaknefs and fatigue, I funk down to reft, and as often, for mere felf-prefervation and defence, vtSiS compelled to arife again to infup- pof table toil. At length night overtook me, with my cloaths torn, my flcfh lace- rated and bleeding with briars and thorns, idung all over by poifonous infe£ls, fufFo- cated with thirft and heat, and fainting U|ider fatigue, imbecility, and difeafe. ' In this wretched miferable condition, I at length arrived at the place where I had landed in the morning, having travelled about ^VQ miles in feven hours, through a perpetual tjiipket pf jilmoft jippene' trablewoods. Here I found Richmqnd, faft afleep iji |he cfmqie, exadly in the fame fpot wl^er? \ had left {lim in the morning. peing incenfed in the higheft degree, I {Jjfeatened him ^^ith fevere punifhmeq|:, ' ' ' N Iree, I United States of America* \ 1 1 when he begged me to liften to his cxcufe, * Kay mafia (fays he), you juft leave * me, me fit here, great fifh jump up * into de canoe ; here he be, mafia, fine ^ fifh, mafia; me den very grad ; den * me fit very dill, until another great fifl\ * jump into de canoe ; but me fall afleep, * maflfa, and no vrake till you come : * now, mafia, ipe know me dcferve flojg^ * ging, caufc if great filh did jump into * de canoe, he fee me afler^j, den he ^ jump out again, and I no catch him ; * fo, mafia, me willing now take goo4 * flogging.' My pain and vexation were for a mo- ment forgotten, and I laughed heartily at the poor fellow'3 ignorance, and extreme fimplicity, in waiting there for more fifhes to jump into his canoe, becaufe one ha4 Jiappened to dp fo j and therefore forgave Jiis criipe, CHAP. 1 I . . r : 1 I i 1 ; h ] 'J: if 1 li. m ''■', ■1 (J II 'ii ,t il 1 ! h I ' I ' I M ^ ' V^: Il iir 111 W: il 'I ! f '1 T Ml,' * .' i' I Mi I, i 1 ^ Ki Ir ! I'i i t >, tl,fj 1 22 y! Tour in the '-if 'V- . .'■ '. C FJ A P. XVI. Y . .J K "i^uihufh Creek, Memher ef dongrefs* Ayiecdotei of the famous Header fan, and th Origin of the new Settlement of Kentucky, .. ij - WHEN lieft Mr. Alejcaticler's, 1 proceeded tip the river fide to Taylor's ferry, which is the itioft fre-« quented of any on Roanoak, and is fitu- ated on the great road leading from the jnoft populous parts of the Carolitias, to the richeft and moil thick fettled divifion of Virginia. I then flruck out bii my left hand, Into a very fine fettlement called Nutbufh, from a creek of that name, v\rhich runs through it ; and it is a large body of ex- cellent land. ^ * ' ^ ' I put up at the houfe of a Mr. Penn, a man of fome property, to whom I had been furnifhed with letter's of recom- mendation and civility. From this gentleman I veceived the po- }itefl attentions^ and we entered on a 3 ^^ery i]f United States of America, 123 very ferious and private converfation on political fubjedls, wherein he fully opened his mind, and difclofed Jiis fentiments oa that head with the moft undifguifed cOUt fidence, freedom, and candour. »».*5- [The above Mr. Penn was afterwards a delegate to. Congrefs from the ftate of North Carolina J and a few days fabfe- quent to. ^ their declaration of i ^ l Even there, where oratory and eloquence is as brilliant and powerful as in Weft- niinfler-hallf h^ foon became diilinguiffied II 1 i ^if ice led United States of Am erica, j 2 5 and eminent, and his fuperior genius fhons forth with great fplendor, and univerfal applaufe. He was, at the fame time, a man of pleafure, gay, facetious, and pliant ; nor did his amazing talents, and general praife^ create him a lingle enemy. In Ihort, while yet a very young mafli he was promoted from the bar to the bench, and appointed Affociate Chief Judge c. the province of North Carolina, with a / . T/ adequate to the dignity. Even in this elevated ftation, his repu- tation and renown continued to increafe. But having made feveral large pur- chafes> and having fallen into a train of expence that his circumftances and fi- nances could not fupport, his extenfive genius ftruck out on a bolder tra6t to fortune and fame, than any one had ever attempted before him. Under pretence of viewing fome back lands, he privately went out to the Che- rokee nation of Indians, and, for an in- fignificant confideration (only ten wag- 7 Z^^^ \ ■! iiV t ii in { ' I M ' '^ • ! I < ^ i'>) n n if 1 1' !il-il * i 1 J '4 '■J I ill Ii li 126 j4 I'oUr in the gons loaded with cheap goods, ftich as Coarfe woollens, trinkets, fome nre-arms, and fpirituous liquors), made a piirchafe from the chiefs of the nation, of a vafl trail of territory, equal in extent to a kingdom; and in the excellence of cli- mate and foil, extent of its rivers, and beautiful elegance of fituations, inferior to none in the univerfe. A doinain of no lefs than one hundred miles fquare, fitu- ated on the back or interior part of Vir- ginia, and of North and South Carolina \ comprehending the rivers Kentucky, Che- rokee, and Ohio, befides a variety of in- ferior rivulets, delightful and charming as imagination can conceive. This tranfaiiion he kept a profound fecret, until fuch time as he obtained the final ratification of the whole nation in form. Then he immediately invited fettkiS from all the provinces, offering them land on the moft advantageous terms, and propofmg to them likewife, to form a legiflature and government of their own ; fuch as might be moft » conve- mnd the >n in ivited :ring reous Iwife, Iment moft )nve- Unhed States of America. 127 convenient to their particular circuin- ftances of fettlement. And he inftantly vacated his feat on tlie bench. Mr. Henderfon by this means eftab- lifhed a new colony, numerous and re- fpe£kabl€,*of which he himfelf was ac- tually proprietor as well as governor, and indeed legiHator alfo; having framed a code of laws, particularly adapted to their (ingular iituation, and local cir- eumftances. In vain did the different governors fulminate their proclamations of outlaw- ry againft him and his people : in vain did they offer rewards for apprehending him, and forbid every perfon from join- ing, or repairing to his fettlement ; un- der the fandion and authority of a ge- neral law, that renders the formal affent of the governors and affemblies of the different provinces abfolutely necefTary to validate the purchafe of any lands from the Indian nations. For this inftance, being the aft of the Indians themfelves, they i|ii:i;| 4 iMi l"Wi r^' !i. I I ;l y. (11 f 11? t* 5:1 1 1^8 A Tour in the they defended him and his tolony, being iti fad as a bulwark and barrier between Virginia, as well as North and South Can folina and him j his territory lying to the weftward of their nation* I beg leave to obferve, that I do not prefume to undertake his juftification, biit only admire his cnterprifmg policy, and the vigour and activity of hi& mind. 'iil ■III II \ i i 1 1 .1 -i » i \ ■ ( i '. ■ It' ■ )■ 'i r ^ j 1 ' ! I- If ^' ■ i| -i 1 ii Li 1- CHAP. A p. United States of Americc\ C H A P. XVI. 129 fiayrljlurg. Tar River. Taken Sick. Extremely ill. Uncivilized Inhabitants. Haudlome fVom'en, Jnjianees of worfe than fav age Brutality. A very fngular and diverting Trick. Meetvoiih a bcautij it Girt, Another Jingular Trick, FROM tiie eonverfation I had with this very extraordinary perfon, Mr.. Hedderfod, I entertained a flrong inclina- tion to pay a vifitto his domain ; which muft certaidly afford a large field for fpeculation and enterprifcj being iituated in the very heart of the continent of America, and in a great degree precluded from the general intercourfe of the reft of mankind, and fo- eiety at large, being likewife feveral hundred miles diftant from any other fettlement. However, foirie mifunderftahdings and difturbances that I was informed had broke out between the Virginians and the Shaw- tiefe and other Indians, I apprehended would at this particular period render the entfcrprize rather hazardous; !4r. Hen- derfon himfelf appearing rather intimi- dated at the danger. VoL.L K HaT- m\ ■!■ I , li :i 1' i . ; 1 ' iijl 1: MIbI I ! VW % I'ilil^'i' ''^ I ,f m ! nt ,1 i ; ■:*! '' I * l^f' i::Lk ! ', '' i , ii. 'i „'•.■ I 1 r u If. 1 i i (; I'M'- ^ '1 i M i : I ;.'/■ 130 yl Tour in (he Having proceeded on my journey, I flept at a place where they have dignified a few log hovels with thr appellation of a town called Harrifburg, from the pro- prietor's name. On the day following I forded two ftreams of water named Fifhing Creek and Tar River, fome miles diflant from each other 5 the laft of which is pretty confiderable, and very rocky. Finding myfelf rather indifpofed, I flop- ped at a houfe on the banks of a water- courfe named Napareed's Creek, and was compelled to remain there all night. In the morning I became much worfe, and foon found myfelf feized with a mofl fevere ficknefs, here called a Seafoning (to the country and climate.) It was a violent bilious fever, and foon reduced me to the verge of death. There was nothing to be procured in this place fit for a fick perfon, not evea ^ ntirfe. Nature and a good conflitution were my only phylicians and medicines* Hay ( ' t'! ii i' ! i m m United States of America, 131 I lay for ten days quite delirious and tielplefs, and it was five weeks before I was out of danger; but even then, fo extremely weak and low, that I was fcarcely able to walk acrofs the room. My ftrength returned fo very flowly, that I was obliged to make a long refi-^ dence in this folitary places but thereby I be-t .ame much more familiarized with, and re- conciled to the cufloms, converfation, and manners of the people, which, it muft be confeiTed, are fufHciently rude and difgufling. I alfo formed particular, and agreeable enough acquaintances with the fofter fex 5 who are, to be fure, very fingular ia their manners and behaviour, although aimoil the only humanized beings in the place. In their ihape and features fome of them are certainly very handfome, yet, at beft, little better than beautiful favages. But was I to relate the various inftances t have feen of the extreme rudenefs and brutality of many of the men, they would K 2 fcarcely 1 III 1 1i \'\ w J I Mi 111!'! ] 1 \ k, I '; • 1 itr li: k' • 'r , It i J ;i 1 1 I :i < 1 ! ' [ ( m' j IV' t ! ■'1 1 ! i ' * < 1 i,r ■^i 132 -^ 7 United States of America . 133 ming, fowling, &c. for my amufcmcnt and diverfion. Being once on a vifit at a Mr. Glen's, he and I went to the river to Avim, it being but a very fhort diftance from his houfe ; whilft we were there, his wife and her fifter, who were both young and handfome, came down to the water-fide, and in a frolic hid our clpaths. After they had laughed at us for fome time, they informed us where they were, and I put mine on ; but he ran out of the water, and purfued the women ftark naked. Having caught his wife, he brought her into the room where her fifter an^ I were, locked the door, took out the key, threw her down on the bed, and notwithftanding her utmoft endeavours to prevent him and difengage herfelf, committed an a£l that a mere favage would have been afliamed to have attempted in public. This he would afterwards boaft of in all companies, in the prefence of his wife and every other lady, as an e.xcellent joke, and prodigious piece of humour, K3 I had I i I i\\ I , I r :N ! »' i I I •1 ' •; "l i '^ •;}• ^^ \ \ 1 I,) . I f ! • ; '( ' 1 ; i 1 i it ' 1 1 m V 1 ■•I t .it! li; m lU. ^34 \d Tour in the I had an aycrfion to the fellow ever after this, and I believe his wife liked bim no better ; for fhe frequently com- plained to me how extremely odious he was become to her. Soon after this I played this biped a trick, that afforded me a fufHcient (hare of diver fion at his expence. Being in a ftorc where Glen had juft purchafed a very handfome fowling- piece, 1 fecretly took an opportunity of loading her with powder, and wadding her with fpunk, charge over charge, fe- veral times, until the barrel was almofl; full, (fpunk is a fungous fubftancc that grows on the oak, which catches fire like tinder, and confumes flowly, until it com- municates the fire to whatever it touches.) After he had mounted his horfc to go home,l dropped afpark of fire into the muzr zle of his gun as I handed her up to him. He then rode on very quietly, followed at a little diflance by me and another perfon, tp whom I had difclofed the contrivance. All I \' • » l:fi ,rA' United States of America. 1 3^ All on a fudden, as he Wcis carrying her on his fhouldcr quite careleC^ly, (he fired oflF with a loud report ; his horl'c, which was a colt fcarcely broke, being frightened, threw him and ran away. Being much bruil'ed, he was unable to follow his horfe, and limped along to- wards his gun ; he took her up, and be- gan to walk flowly homewards, but ap- peared to be in a ftate of great furprize and perturbation. ' In a little time ihe fired again, when recoiling againft the fide of his head, the cock-pin almoft tore off his ear, and (he fell a fecond time on the ground. JHe flood fome moments in the utmoft terror and amazement, before he dared to venture to take her up again; ['which how- ever he attempted at laft, with fear and trembling. Viewing her with the greateft timidity, care, and attention, and finding the pan (hut, he opened it, and feeing it bright, unflained with fmoak, and empty, and the whole piece without any uncommon ap- K 4 pear^ . 1 • < fi; V4 Ml \ If li f !' I i . . '^ '^m ! ii'v'' : |ir 1:1 1^! 136 A Tour in the pearance, he faid to himfelf, " Surely f* the devil muft have been in this gun, ^< but I hope he has got out now ; hpw- ** ever, I muft be careful.*' He then walked on once more, holding her out at arm's length from his bodyi ^nd faft with both hands i prefently (he fired a third time, when his aftonifhment is not to be defcribed : he inftantly threw her down, and fled behind a tree, terri- fied beyond expreffion, and peeping at her from thence. In this fituation he continued to watch her, as fhe then lay upon the ground, until fhe fired a fourth time ; upon that he could contain himfelf no longer, but affrighted, left fhe fhould turn about and fhoot him, for he was now well cori- vinced that fhe was animated, he forgot his bruifes, and ran away as faft as his feet could carry him, keeping under co- ver from tree to tree, with as great cau-> tion as ever an Indian retreated from a fuperior enemy, until he conceived him- felf beyond her reach, when he halted to lJ?iited States of Jmerica, 137 to reft and breathe, being juft ready to fink down with terror and fatigue : at that inftant (he fired again, and, hearing the report, he took to his heels, and never flopped any more until he reached his own houfe ; where he declared his full afTurance that the devil, or fomething worfe, had fixed his head quarters in the fowling-piece. After he got home, he related to his wife, and to all his neighbours, a mofl lamentable tale of his atchievements and feats of prowefs, in an engagement with the devil i embellifhed with many extra- ordinary and fiditious exploits in fupcr- abundance. But the fright, and the fall from his horfe, occafioned him a fevere illnefs, which indeed had like to have put his grand antagonifl in pofleiilon of him as well as of his gun. After his recovery he could never be prevailed on to touch that fowling-piece, although he was made acquainted with tjie flratagem that had been i^lpofed on him; I i ,• i •■ \ 1^ i I 1' 6 IB' \ 1 1 ft !■ ■ m ! 1 ;|'' 1 1 1' I J > , ' ;i il: i ' i ti' 1 ' 1: i \ \ 1 ' ] ';^ m , ■u J38 A Tour in the him 5 and he was fo ridiculed and laughed at by every one, that for a long time he did not venture to Ihow his face in public. This was the only adl of retaliation I in- flidted upon this fellow, in return for a mul- titude of ridiculous filly mifchiefs, and flupid foolifli tricks, or jokes (as he called them), which he was (before this one retorted on himfelf ) perpetually playing off upon me, and every perfoji be happened to fall in company with. There was a rich planter's daughter, of her own accord, undertook to polifh me (as flie was pleafed to term it) ; this was with the approbation of her parents and friends, and certainly fhe honoured me with every attention, inftrudion, and kindnefs. Indeed, if prefents could have ren- dered me polite, I muft have foon become one of the moft polifhed youths in their country; for every prefent fhe received from the young gentlemen in the vicinity (which indeed was not a few, the girl being exceedingly handfome), fhe infifted United States of America, 139 infifted on my accepting, fo that at laft I Jcnew not what to do with them. Whilft I remained at this place I met with a very lingular occurrence: having purchafed a beautiful Chickafaw horfe, named fo from a nation of Indiana who are very careful in preferving a fine breed of Spa- nifh horfes they have long poffefled, un- mixed with any other 5 the firll day that I rode him, he was feized with a violent con- yulfion fit ; the fecond day with another ; the third day he was afFeded in the fame manner, while at grafs in the pafture ; the fourth day he w?i^ taken in a manner ftill more extraorcjinary, his mouth was drawn up over his back, and he began to move on ftraight forwards, in a dired: line, with great fpeed and force, beating down fences, going oyer the trunks of fallen trees, and every, obftrudion in hi^ way ; in this manner he rulhed on into woods, far diftant from fettlements, and was followed for feven miles, but being then loft fight of, he was never feen or heard of more, (3HAP, I t; Iff i ?is>iiiii f I'' f f I I!' i '|: i! ^ii 1 ■i I 't ■ft i i ill ml * Hi. 'M I 140 ^ Ti?«r in the CHAP. XVIII. JVoods, Glades^ or Savannahs, Licks. Hunters, Wild Horfes. Peculiar Sentiments of an Eurcipean, on his Jrrival in America, HERE, during my flow recovery from this dangerous indifpofition, I be- gan to accuftom myfelf to walk, or ride, little diftances alone in the woods. "When I firfl: attempted it, I was fure to get bewil- dered and loft, every time ; which indeed one cannot avoid, until habituated to attend to the fun, the trees, and the water-courfes. But it requires the ex- perience of feveral years, to become a good and experienced wood's- man. I obferved here, in different places in the woods, fome confiderable glades, fa- vannahs, or meadows. Thefe are natural openings, of a few acres in extent, quite deftitute of timber, aot a tree, nor even tJie vellige of one, to be perceived in them; but I * United States of America. 1 4t but the ground therein is alwvs covered with abundance of excellent long grafs. Such meadows are generally to be found near the head fpring, or fource of fmall branches of running water, and are as uncommon in America, as an equal ex- tent of natural woods, and large, llately, lofty trees are in Europe. Throughout this inland country, one frequently hears of places called Licks; which appellation, being unintellgible to any but the inhabitants, I (hall embrace this opportunity to explain. Licksareparticular places, moft common- ly on the banks of rivers, or creeks, and fometimes at fpring-heads, where the cUy or earth is impregnated with fallne particles. Thefe places are frequented by deer, elks, buffaloes, horned cattle, and horfes, which daily refort to them, to lick the earth or clay with their tongues ; this they perform with a peculiar relifh and gout, and appear to take great delight therein, coming there, for that purpofe, from the diftance of many miles around. 9 There i ^ ■ ' V i! fii.'. ! I •' fill ! \ ''^ ^ ill, ii' iW i'l. -'1 VI iMi' ; i' !' '' I iii 1 '! •■ f. >8' I ■ j ij,';; i •I 4. u 14a ^ 2l?/^r /*« t^e There is likewife another kind of licks here befides. Thefe are alfo on the banks of rivers, lakes, ftreams of water, or large ravines and chafms, and confift of chalk, or calcarious earth, of a teftaceous quality, > /hich is greedily licked up and confumed by all thofe different animals I have alrea- dy mentioned in the defcription of the former of thefe places. To the ufe of this latter kind they are prompted by nature and inftind, for falu- tary and medicinal purpofes, to corrciSt the acidity of the fuper- abundant vegeta- tive juices accumulated in the ilomach, which would otherwife occafion fevere gripings, ftridures of the bowels, and many other painful difordciS. All thefe licks are generally frequented by hunters with their rifles, at the dawn of day, or on bright moon-fhine nights, who, by this means, feldom fail of killing fome of the deer, elks, or buffaloes, that refort to them at fuch private times, for the gi^ater fecurity. a Thefe 'hefe United States of America, 14 j Thefe places, however, are only to be found or heard of in the back country, and are generally very confiderable di- flanees afunder, fome ten, twenty, and thirty miles. All the inhabitants throughout Ame- rica, that are diftant from the fea, or falt- water, give their cattle and horfes fait, fometimes once, fometimes twice a week; which is not only to promote their in-* creafe of flefh, but to render them gen- tle and tame, and to allure them to come often to their owner's plantations j elfe, in the mild fouthern climate, where there is no occafion to provide a ftock of proven- der for them againft the winter, they would otherwife run wild, and roam far beyond the reach of their proprietors, through this immenfe and unbounded foreft. Indeed, notwtthftanding every precau- tion, very great numbers of black cattle, horfes, and hogs adually do fo daily, and run at large, entirely wild, without any . .J W. -• I 1' •■ :^ ' ^■''H' .1 ■ 1 i .1 . W-V- 1: i li ! R ^ii , \\mm m ■ !i t. ^ , I .1 II '1 1 'li r. in : "11 .11 t; ■ , , ■ i i I % 1 . , • 1 , 1 U4 ^ Tour in the any other proprietors than thofe of the ground they happen to be found upon. In fome parts, each perfon, in poffefliort of a plantation, has what is called a right in the woods ; by which he is entitled to the property of a certain proportion of the live flock that runs wild> fuch as I juftdefcribed* f This right they difpofe of, and transfer froto party to party, in the fame manner as affixed property. And when they want to catch fome colts j to render them tame and ferviceable, it is an undertaking of no fmall difficulty to accomplifli* Throughout the middle arid back fet- tlements of America, there is no other criterion to afcertain the property of black cattle, fheep, and hogs, but ear-marks alone ; and of horfes, than brands with red hot irons, and ear-marks alfo. Each perfon's mark differs from an- other; and they are all fevetally recorded by the clerk of the county-courts where- in they refide. This ari- rded lere- 'hla Utiited States of America, i.\^ *rhis is fupported by the authority of the Icgiflature, who have decreed it felony to alter or deface thofe marks or infignia of property. There is an obfervation very remarka- ble, which occurred to me, and as I fup- pofe to every European on his arrival in America^ but I prefume never thought on by any native. It is an idea of rellraintj or a want of free open air, and an ex- tenfion of view, occafioned by the ap- pearance of confmcmcnt, and the pcr- fpedtive being always bounded by tlie furrounding woods, which perpetually limit the fight within narrower com- pafs than the mind requires ; bcfides an univerfal gloomy fliade, rendered difinal by the intermixing branches of the l-jfty trees, which over-fpread the whole coun- try, and the fvjn never pervades. This occafioned a fenfatioii rather pain- ful to me fur a conTiderable time, wliich, however, gradually wore off, until I could only juft recollect the idea. Vot. I, L I ac- i n ' H 3„f J I i! i 15 i'i t; ■I i Mi i m |M ■P i I 1 I i^l '11 Nit 5 I i\^ . hi I it 'I 146 A Tour in the I acknowledge indeed never to have heard this obfervation mentioned by any one whomfoever; bqt as it ftruck me mofl: forcibly, I have therefore every reafon to believe that others have like- wife perceived, at firft, the fame kind of fenfations, if they began to travel foon ^fter their arrival in this part of America, ' ! ' I |i| -I 4 ■'If CHAP. . : 1 ; 1 i' 1 j :K ' , UmUj Spates of America, 147 CHAP. XIX. Appearance cf the Country. Difcafcs of the Climate. Snokis. (lumc. Raccoons. Defcnptlon of the Op- pojjiitn. Beer made of Perfimmons. Cheopncfs of Land, Delightful Climate. Stanzas 'written in Solitude. THE face of the country, ever fince I left Mr. Eaton's, has been gra- dually fwelling more and more into hills and dales, which ace here called bottoms, as I advanced weflward; and the land is likewife more mixed with ftones, which alfo continue to increafe in magnitude. The foil is a compofition of reddiih clay and loam, flrong and fertile ; the woods lefs intermingled with pines, and more with oak and hickory; and the water every where excellent, running in vaft multitudes of beautiful clear dreams. The country and climate is in general healthy, the low grounds of the rivers alone other wife, particularly thofe of the Roanoak, occafioned by exhalations arif- ing from the damp foil, ftagnated wa- La ters, t "1 L ■I ii, " 1 1, i 1 .1 ; ll i^ I 1 1 1 '( .f 1 1 I 1 t 1 • 1 ,' ■ % i h (i I II U8 A Tcur in the leis, and by the piitlrercencc of the air, tvhofe free circulation is prevented, in fuch fituations, by lofty thick woods, im- |)ervious to the brightefl beams of the fun, under which a difmal gloom and in- falubrious moifture eternally reigns. The inhabitants of thefe places, and Iheir neareft vicinity, are fubjed: to ob- ftinate intermittents ; thefe, and bilious complaints, b;ing the chief and mofl ^prevailing endemial difcafes throughout Ihis country. There are llkewife great numbers of all kinds of ferpents in thefe fituations^ particularly that moil poifonous and dreadful of all, the rattle-fnake ; and the more filent and dangerous moccoflbns alfo abound, efpecially in and near the fwamps, guts, and rivers^ but are not ftfiet with fo frequently. - . .. ^ • Game is very plenty here, particularly 'deer, beavers, otters, raccoons, and that very extraordinary animal the oppoffum, the female of which has a double, or falfe belly ; within it the young ones grow ! "1 s of ionsi and and bns the not UniuJ States of America* l^^j grow to the teats, like fruit to the i\u'ik| and drop ofF at a certain period. After (he has brought forth her young, during the feafon of their infancy, v.-hcn- ever they perceive danger nigh, they all run into the mother's bag, or falfc bellyi for fecurity and refuge. Both thefe and the raccoons are u(e4 for food, generally barbicued, or roafled, and their flefli is not unpleafant. There are alio fome wolves, and mul- titudes of foxes, vi'ild turkies very large fat and fine, wild-geefe, duckg, and fquirrels innumerable, which make mod excellent foup ; alfo wood-peckers and jays of feveral different kinds j befidea a vaft variety of other animals, biros, beafts, &c. too many even to enumerate. Great numbers of trees in tbe wqods, efpecially in the low grounds, are coverpd with vines, and bend under the weight of the ripe grapes, which are fufpqn^ed in accumulated multitudes of larg? ap4 delicious clufters. /■ \ I' V ,■' ^1 ': 1 '?'! f f'i i^^o ^ Tour in the i'l L' ■ rn There is alfo a remarkable fruit named the perfimmon, growing wild, about a$ large as the biggeft Orleans plum, of a bright fcarlet colour, with four or five very hard feeds in each, nearly of the iize and fiiape of thofe of tamarinds, an J the pulp of the fruit, when per- fedly ripe, is of a Iharp, but lufcious fweetnefs. As other fruits are ripened by the fun, fo the perfimmon is by the froft in con- jundion with it ; for although beautiful and tempting to the eye, they cannot be eaten, and fcarcely even tafted, before they are maturated, or meliorated, by fe- deral fliarp frofts, previous to which they are auftere, rough, and aftringent, to a greater degree than any other vegetative fubftance, or production, whatfoever. All animals are exceffively fond of this fruit, particularly the oppoflums and rac- coons, who are generally found on, or near the perfimmon-trees. Thefc trees are as large as oaks, elms, or afh, and are 9 'ill Uy j Awalc'ning reflexion will urge them to know. They, like butterflies, blaze but a day. X. In ;4>„:-;i»j8«_ ^ X. In United States of America. i^j X In all the gay flutter of fafhion and drefs. They approach me,— expe£ling my praife ; Since, like them, abandon'd to ev'ry excefs.-M* Let them lif^en, with heed, to my lays. << For once then to truth and good-humour defcendy ** Nor wax thus ill-natuir^dly warm ; (' But bear with the cordial advice oJF a friend ** Who can blufli for himfelf, and reform. XII. ** Too long, my dear Sirs, have you madly deny'd ** A rational ufe to your eyes ; *< And loolc'd on thofe adlions with envy and pride, ** Which reflection ujuft hate and defpife, XIII. ** In praife of the fatal excefles of wine, ** Difdain to be feen with a pen ; ** Nor boaft of being rais'd into fomethlng divine, ♦' When 4ebas'd greatly lower than men. XIV. ** Where murder for honour is fliamefully dreft, *' O never attempt to defend; *' Nor plunge the fell fword, for a cafual jeft, " In the breaft of your worthieft friend. XV. To t' 'i [■: m ul i OYOVgh* Strong Poji, IJcrM Fiflds, Singular Phenomenon. Accounted for, THE laft two confiderable dreams of water that I crofled on my way to this place, Fifhing-creek and Tar-river, re- ceiving feveral inferior creeks and branches in their courfe, from a tolerable large ri- ver, which pafling by Tarburg, falls into the immenfc body of water, that is known by the appellation of Pamplico found, at Bath town, after a courfe of about an hundred and fifty miles, in a dire£t line, from the fource. It was in February when I left this place, and again proceeded on my journey. At the end of two miles, 1 crofTed Flat river, and in two miles farther, Little river; thefe, with another river (the Eno) wuthin a couple of miles more, meet fome fraall diftance below, and form the river Newfe. Each of thefe fmall rivers, is larger than the Thames at Richmond, and the Newfe js not much inferior to the Roanoak. After iiH w- 2; it'- 1 I < V- ^ 'f ii 'If i !: Jli: \h I: ■^ ' i i !l! , m fi.^ ,'1 160 A Tuur in the After a courfc of more than three hun- cired miles, it empties itfelf in Pampiko found, about thirty miles below the town of Newbcrn, which is fometimes called, and lately eftabliihcd as the capital of 3Sorth-Carolina. This town is fituated in a very beau- tiful fpot, on the banks of the Newfe, at the confluence of a pretty dream, named Trent river. After a ride of twenty-two miles, I ar- rived at Hillfborough, where I dined and jpafTed the reft of the day. Thii IS the third appellation this town has already been honoured vith fince it was creded, being firft named Corben-town, next Childfburg, now Hillfborough ; all in lefs ihan thirty years. It is alfo the capital of a diftridl, and the county-town of Orange. Hillfborough is a healthy fpot, en- joys a good (hare of commerce for an inland town, and is in a very promifing flate of improvement. 6 The im- liCO lied, I of >eau- e, at imed 1 ar- d and town it was town, 1 ; all id tUc en- [or an liling The United States of America. \ 6 1 The land, forfomedlftance around Hillf- borough, confills of a mixture of loam and flrong red clay of fo bright a colour that white horfcs and cattle, foon after they are brought there, become in appearance a fine fcarlet. In the vicinity of Hillfborough, a to the weftward of it, there are a great many very fine farms, and a number of excel- lent mills. The inhabitants are chiefly natives of Ireland and Germany, but of the very lowed and moft ignorant clafs, who export large quantities of exceeding good butter and flour, in waggons, to Halifax, Peterfliurg, &c, befides multi- tudes of fat cattle, beeves, and hogs. There is a very fl:eep and high hill, or fmall mountain, with two fummits of an equal height, on the fouth-wefl: of Hillf- borough, which arifes abruptly in the middle of an extenfive plain, and com- mands the whole country for a great di- ftance around. Vol. I. M This ki 1 ^5 ii ri I )\l I li ■M I'?' !! \-v J- .1 f i iJi| IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // ^ .^4 1.0 I.I L£M2.8 lU 140 1^ 1 2.0 ^K^ii^ ^% <% / PhotograiM: _Sdences CorporaliQn 23 WBT MAIN STREIT WEBSTeR,N.Y. 145S0 (716) •72-4503 •N? \ V \\ ^ ^ o^ '■^y^ ^ ) i-.4^ ^^^ ^'^T V \ % o^ ** Mill I '» I I ! '- i 162 A Tour in the This might eafily ce rendered a ve^ ry (Irong poft, by works thrown up on the fummits, which are near enough to cover and fupport each other, and fo fituated, as the communication between them could not be interrupted. The flanks and rear likewife would be ftrength- ened by the river Eno, which runs at the bafe of this mountain, and wafhes two fides of it. The flaple produce of all this coun- try being provifions of every kind, a fortified poft in this place, would thereby be enabled to fubfift and maintain itfelf in every neceflary lupply, excepting arms and ammunition, and might be defended, by a fmall force, againft a very confiderable and fuperior army. Almoft every man in this country has been the fabricator of his own fortune, and many of them are very opulent. ^ Some have obtained their riches by com- merce, others by the pradice of the law, which in this province is peculiarly lucra- tive, and extremely oppreffivej butmoft of them p on 3UgH id fo ween The ngth- at the s two coim- .ind, ?. hereby tfelf in ms and d,by a derable try has [ortune, r )y com- Ilc law, lucra- loftof them United States of America. 1 6 3 them have acquired their pofleflions by cropping, farming, and induftry. I dined next day, by invitation, at the houfe of Mr. Frank Nafli. , [Since then it has happened, in the viciffitudes of fortune, that Mr. Nafh and the author were engaged in battle on dif- ferent fides > Mr. Nalh as a General in the American army, and the author a Captain in the Britifh, at the adion of German- Town, near Philadelphia, where Mr. Na(h received his mortal wound] Here, at Mr. Nafh's, I happened to meet a Mr. Mabin (a native of Ireland) who very kindly infilled on my accom- panying him to his feat on Haw river, adjoining the Haw fields, to fpend fomc weeks there. Having a great defire to view the Haiv fields, a place I had heard much about, I went along with him to his plantation, which is about an cafy day's ride, v/eft of Hillfborough. M2 Mr. \\ , \ ■%• li ^ it n 1 L' "■ I, h I- \ i i k I r A 'li-YV \':'^>i ii il ■ If f ' r : i I; !' i; '1 J! Mil: |i 1 I 4|f ;'Nfh.| III i:j &, t;( ; ! 164 ^ T'^wr in the Mr. Mabin's farm is very valuable and! cxtenfive, but not particularly remarkable. I rode feveral times over the Haw fields, but could not perceive any thing in them extraordinary. They confift partly of wide favan- nahs, or glades* and partly of large fields overgrown with fhrubs, brufh, and low. under- wood, entirely deftltute of heavy timber. 'But there appears many velliges of trees, which in all probability have been blown down by a hurricane, and the young (hoots afterwards choaked by the extreme thicknefs of the low buOies, and fcrubby underwood. This 1 have alfo obferved to be the cafe in ma- ny other places befides. From the efFed of thefe moft violent and tremendous hurricanes and torna- does, which being fometimes partial, fre- quently move in ftrange fantaftic direc- tions, and from ^the irrefiflible force of the wind, and the vaft deluges and innun- dations of water that generally accompany them, all the appearances may be readily f-if i ii any illty >ane, aked low This ma- Vnited States cf America. 1 6 5 accounted for in a common and natural way, which, however, have lately given fcope to an ingenious, celebrated, and ele- gant author's (Dr. Dunbar) and others of lefs note (Mr. Carver,&c.) vague imagina- tions ; hazarding their fanciful and wild conjedures of fome of thefe being vjpftiges of military works, erected many ages paft, by a people the;z conversant in that Tci- ence, but whofe defoendants,^///*' mere dint of praciice^ (for war and hunting appear from the moft early period of time to have been the fole ftudy and occupation of their lives,) and by fome other equally abfurd and unaccountable tranfitions, have thereby forgotten, and, at thii day, have loft every trace thereof. Indeed it muft be confeffed, that the elephant's bones, or thofe of fome other unknown animal of vaft magnitude, found on the banks of the river Ohio, the antique fculptures in the Delaware's country, on the noith-weft fide of that amazing river, the iheils and marine f^bft^nces in the Alegany mountains, M 3 toge- \\- m \ ii i 1 '' ' |i 1 1' .c it- . i J' ii i i ■ ^ i ■ ' 'r ' 1 \\ It i ■ ' 5 i ' ■ t ■' ' i !. 1 ■ ll' 1 \ |.jl! i • I ii 1 ■!■; 1 .1 f li !;: H iM ! ! l| ! j .i f*l * !i *■)■ ll 166 A Tour in the together with many other flrange appear- ances and fingular phenomena, fo frequently to be met with throughout this moft ex- tenfive continent, dilplay a fertile field for a creative, fanciful genius to explore, and may give rife to the moft novel, ele- gant, and beautiful flights of imagina- tion, and the brighteft, moft ingenious, and fplendid embcllifhments of fiction. However, I have reafon to believe, that fome of the Haw fields have been cleared of woods by the Indians, in ages paft, who were undoubtedly fettled here -, many in- lignia, and veftiges of the remains of their towns, ftill remainitlg. V:!' !*: ■■m li m\\ 11 li J If \ 4 'I 1 ''» IV - CHAP. 3 lAP. United Slafcs of ^mcruj, 167 ' CHAP, XXI. Ilaw river. Dcip rher. Cipe Fear river* Carr:- xvay mountains. Grand ami chgant Pcrfpiit'rje. Bad Axommodatlons. Unfuitable to an Epicure^ or a Fait Afaitre. HAVING it in fpeculation to vifit Henderfon's fettlcment on Ken- tucky, I mentioned my intention to Mr. Mabin, who appeared very ftrenuous in <:Ufluading mcfrom undertaking fuch an en- terprize at prefent, on account of the mif- underftanding and difturbances now fub- fifting between the Indians and the Whites. He informed me of a report, that even Henderfon's whole fettlement was either exterminated, or in imminent danger of being fo. For this rcafon, I conchided to poft- pone this arduous undertaking, until fuch time as more certain and favourable intelligence of their fituation in the fettle- ment fhould arrive, and a better profpe«£l of reaching it without moleftation. M 4 On I i ■i ' ■ l|r! ii tl. m i 1 1 i" i 1 '. i:i .1 M I ^1! i \i' m I i 3 I ;^;/ i68 /f !r(?//r /« //5tf On the third evening after I came here, a gentleman, named Frohawk, called at Mr. Mabin's, on his return to Salifbury, where he refided. As he tarried all night, we had much convcrfation, and from his accounts of the Catawba Indians, my curiofity was ftrongly excited to vifit their nation, which was only about an hundred miles beyond the town of Salifbury. Accordingly, having expreffed my de- fire and intention to Mr. Frohawk, he was fo obliging as to propofe to condud and accompany me j an opportunity and eli- gible offer, which I with great fatisfadion embraced, and fet out along with him next morning. The road we travelled in is named the Great Trading Path, and leads through Hillfborough, Salifbury, &c. to the Ca- tawba towns, and from thence to the Che- rokee nation of Indians, a confiderabje diftance weftward. We forded the Haw river, which is there sibout twice as broad as the Thames at 11 ) I at T» ach of was licH ond de- vraa t and eli- sion him the )iigh Ca- IChe- jrabje tell is lames at Untied States of America, 169 at Putney, and within a few miles farther, in the like manner, we crofied Reedy ri- ver, another branch of the fame ftream, and as large. We dined juft by a Quaker's meeting- houfe, and in the afternoon croffed Deep river, at a ford. This is alfo about twice as wide as the Thames at Putney, and joins the Haw river fome di fiance below, after wafliing the bafe of the north-eaft fide of a ridge or chain of high hills, named the Carroway mountains. The Haw is then a large river, and runs through the fettlement and town of Crofs creek, which is chiefly inhabited by Scots emigrants from the weftern High- lands and the Hebrides* : it then afTumes a new appellation, being called the North- weft, or Cape Fear river, and pafling by the town of Wilmington, which has been frequently confidei ed as the metropolis of ♦ For an account of the unhappy fate of this loy »1 and patriotic fettlement, on account of their attachment to their King and Countiy, fee Chap, ^xxi. North- i ' I 'II .? ! I u *iii • '] 111: 1' 5 ft k '' ,1 , i ;|. If. 170 ^ Toitr in the North-Carolina, on the north-eaft, and I3runfvvick, which \s a little lower on the wcllcrn bank of the river, it falls into the Atlantic ocean at Cape Fear, after sl courfe of more than three hundred miles from the fource. We lodged that night at an inn or or- dinary, as it is called here, at the foot of the Carroway mountains, which we had frequently had a glimpfe of, during this day's rid€. We purfued our journey early on the following morning, which was extremely pleafant and fme; and when we arrived at the fummit of the mountain^ the fun juft began to verge above the horizon. Here I alighted, and indulged myfelf in gazing with great delight on the wild and extenfive profpedl around me. On the north-eaft I beheld the mountains atKillfborough, diftant above fifty miJes'; on the fouth-weft, the mountains near Salifbury ; and on the weft, Tryon mpun- tains ; with the wide extended foreft be- low, embrowned with thick woods, and inter- rfelf kvild Ufiitcd States rf America* 171 latcrfeded witli dark, winding, narrow chafnis, which marked out the courfe of the diiferent mighty ftreams tliat mean- dered through tliis enormous vale ; thinly interfperfcd on the banks of which, the forms and plantations appeared like as many infignificant fpots, that, while they pointed out the induftry, ferved alfo to expofe the littlenefs of man. On this fpot I could with pleafure havq pafled the day, had not a craving, keen appetite reminded us, that there are more gratifications neceflary for our fupport,. than feafting our eyes ; fo we defcended the mountain, and purfued our journey. It was fortunate for me, that at this time, my conftitution, health, and tafle, enabled me to fubfift on any kind of food, without repining, and. with fufficient fa- tisfadtion, however coarfe or unufual it might be. For this is not an entcrprifc for an epicure, or a petit maitre : the apprehen- fions of perifhing with hunger and want, would as etfedually deter the one from fuch . an 6 I • ; . i till ' If. v- '■\ 11 11 '\\ \ A \ \ \ \ ^:A ^'1 <; )l ' i 1 1 i * 'i. ' : t ;/! , 4 i jiir'i. v IL.Illi \ J71 j1 Tour in the an undertaking, as the dread of abfolutcly expiring with fatigue and hardfliips, would the other; the fare and accom- modations a traveller meets with through- out this country, being very indifferent indeed, even at beft, and generally mi- ferable and wretched beyond defcription, excepting at warm or opulent planters houfes, where there is always a profufion of every thing, but in the coarfeft and plaineft ftyle. The greater number of thofe who tra- vel through this country, have acquaint- ances among the inhabitants, at whofe houfes they generally put up every night, and feldom call at ordinaries. . Thofe that drive and accompany wag- gons on a journey, fleep in the woods every night under a tree, upon dry leaves on the ground, with their feet towards a large fire, which they make by the road fide, wherever night happens to overtake them, and are covered only with a blan- ket. Their horfes are turned loofe in the woods, only with leather fpancills or fet- ters rag- >ods United States of America. 173 ters on two of their legs, and each with a bell fadened by a collar round his neck, by which they are readily found in the morn- ing. ProviHons and provender, both for men and horfcs, are carried along with them, in the waggon, fufficient for the whole journey. Even thefe advantages, trifling as they may appear, a traveller on horfeback is deftitute of, and is obliged to truft to Pro- vidence, and the country through which he paiTes, for accommodation and fubfifl- cnce ; both of which are not always to be met with, and even when they are, ar^ fel^om as good, never better than the waggoners. t I ■, ) lit ' H i) n CHAP. I i!. Ml' fji ' [ ,1 'J 1 n i ( i t ! ' ' I -I i.l 111 r I; 1 iM : I m ■I' II >' "i't > !, ''i. •i1 . ■ I :| i: 1. ' 1 ■ ' 1 • ,.'.1 , :; .5, 1 I ,'■ 't 'j ' k ' J! h ( ■ J' ' . ("■&■' 1 ": ; ■ : J; J. , ■fi! i ; , '.! !, •■ if' i ■ , ,; . i i 1 i ■ 174 -^ TfW^r /// f/j^ ' CHAP. XXIL Tcidkln River, Sal'ijlmry. Beautiful Terfpcnhc. Ttyofi Mountain, Bruj7)y Alountains. The King Moun-* tain dljllngul/hed for the unhappy Fate of the gallant Alcijor Fcrgitfon. LATE in the afternoon we crofled ' the river Yadkin, at a ford, fix or fcven miles beyond which is the town of Salifbury, where we arrived that evening, being about one hundred and twenty miles weft-fouth-weft from Hillfbofough. The Yadkin is a very large ftrtfam of water, at leaft three times as wide as *he Thames at Putney : it runs through a rich and extenfive country, enters South Carolina, pafling through the Chaw- raws, having a vaft body of low grounds and rich rice and indigo lands on each lide, before which it affumes the name of Great Peedee, and falls into the Atlan- tic Ocean a few miles below George- Town, which (lands on the weft fide of a bay t; I 'B» United States of America, 1 7 ^ a 'bay named Winyaw, formed within the mouth of this river, receiving a great many inferior ftreams in it« courfe, which is remarkably crooked, being above five hundred miles along with its meanders, and more than four hundred miles, in a direct line, from its fource. Salifbury is the capital of a diflri(5l, and is the county town of Roan: it is fituated on a fmall creek that runs into the Yadkin on the fouth-weft fide. This town is larger than Hillfboroiigh, and lefs than Halifax ; but does not fhare an equal degree of commerce with the leaft of them. The trade from SaUfbury is pretty ex- actly divided between the towns on James River in Virginia, and Charles Town in South Carolina. There is a beautiful romantic moun- tain a few miles due fouth from Salifbury, which being fecn from the town produces a very line effect, as the Garroway mountains do alfo, the tops of which are Ukewife to be perceived. I went ,i ^ 11 -^^ ?i ' 1 ^! i f \ if h I ;;; ,1. ' w nil li !* \ 1 \:\\ 'M * '^ 111 : " ! I'}' ,> ! • i! ii hi II w; i !1:| ^^' 111 r m i;?6 yf Tbar /« /^(^ I went to the fummit of tliis dellgtit-s ful mountain, on the brow neareft to the town, and from thence beheld a per- fpedive, beautiful, extenfive, and grand, as I always do fuch a fcene, with fupe- rior pleafure. On the north-eaft I obferved the Carro- way mountains ; on the north-weft, at fifty jniles diftancc, the BruQiy Moun- tains, the Montague Hills, and the King's Mountain on the weft. [It was on this mountain that gallant officer and excellent partizan, Major Fergu- fon, of the Britifh army, and his whole detachment, were cut off, and killed by a vaft fuperiority of the rebels, in November 1780 ; by which misfortune this place has unhappily become diftinguiftied.] On the fouth and eaft I beheld an unbounded plain ; and the whole an im- menfe foreft, without limits, interfperfed with vaft water-courfes, and thinly fpotted with fettlements. Mr. \lk •fj • !:, I ;! M )y a iber )lace an im- lerfed lotted Mr. United States of America, i yj Mr. Frohawk being prevented by an unforefeen accident from accompanying me to the Catawba nation, I fet out alone, and after a fatiguing ride of fixty miles, arrived at a little town, named Charlottefburg, at night ; having forded feveral water- courfes during the day, which form Rocky River, a branch of the Yadkin. Charlottefburg is an inconfiderable place, and in England would not be thought deferving of even the name of a village. It ftands upon a creek that runs into the Catawba River, is not a county town, and its trade and (hare of commerce is very infignificant. During this day's ride, I obferved that the fettlemenls are fewer, the plantations fmaller, and the land, in appearance, lefs fertile, than on the other fide of Salif- bury. Vol. I. N CHAP. n ■f! : -i: V \ i\ M i L! ill" r {i'l % r 111, ! I;: I'" \ )i y\ \ k't'! ' ;•'( If'! I f V !i ') il lilli-it 1 i iJM r ii. hi :i f ; 1 1- r J ^ ii'!/ f' If I ••■*■ 1^''! IJ i ■ ■ 1 ■ ! i. 1, ! 178 ^ 7(?«r in the CHAP. XXIII. Blazed Path, Origin and life thereof, Defcription of a Bock f Food's Rifleman. HisflrangeDrefs and peculiar Sentiments, . THROUGHOUT all this country, and in every back fettlement in America, the roads and paths are firft marked out by blazes on the trees, cut alternately on each fide of the way, every thirty or forty yards : thefe are renewed every time the roads are repaiicd. A blaze is a large chip diced off the fide of a tree with an axe ; it is above twelve inches in length, cut through the bark and fome of the fap wood, and by its white appearance, and brightnefs, when frefli made, ferves to diredl the %Yay in the night as well as in the day. " The miles are chiefly computed, and are afcertained by notches chopped in the nearefl tree ; a notch for every mile. The Hrft blazed paths originated in this niaaiier : when any perfon went from one r ?:- ■ Hion and t in firft , cut jvery ewed Fthe ibove h the idby nefs, the r. and the this Ifrom one tJnited States of America, 179 one plate to another through the woods, where it would have been difficult, if not impoffible, to return upon his track, he fell upon this method of blazing each fide of the trees, at certain diftances, as he pafled on, and thereby retraced his way in returning, without the leaft trouble. The convenience and fimplicity of this mode has rendered it univerfal through- out the whole back country. It became the more readily adopted, as all who travel beyond the roads and beaten tracks, always have tomahawks in their belts ; which, in fuch fituations and circumftances, are more ufeful than any thing, except the rifle-barreled fire- locks J both of which all the male in- habitants habituate themfelves conflantly to carry along with them every where. Their whole drefs is alfo very fingular, and not very materially different from that of the Indians ; being a hunting fhirt, fomewhat refembling a waggoner's frock, ornamented with a great many fringes, tied round the middle with a N 2 broad I 411..; I 1 >■'! ;iS Ml 1 t •.■■It t > \- I i v ♦ \ t , '. I l!! t ** HI !■• '\ Hi \ ': t I \ 11 l- m i t I 4 : .1 i, ' I < i I . (I!'|t| f"* •ill I .i< iilM I* i8o -^ 7o//r /V /^^ broad belt, much decorated alfo, in which is fattened a tomahawk, an inftrument that ferves every pur pole of defence and convenience ; being a hammer at one fide and a Iharp hatchet at the other ; the iliot bag and powder-horn, carved with a variety of whimfical figures and devices, hang from thsir necks over one fhoulder; and oh their heads a flapped hat, of a reddifli hue, proceeding from the in- tenfely hot beams of the fun. Sometimes they wear leather breeches, made of Indian dreifed elk, or deer ikins, but more frequently thin trowfers. On their legs they have Indian boots, or leggings, made of coarfe woollen cloth, that either are wrapped round toofely and tied with garters, or are laced upon the outfide, and always come better than half way up the thigh : thefe are a great defence and prefervative, not only againft the bite of ferpents and poifonous infedts, but likewife againfl the fcratches of thorns, briars, fcrubby buihes, and under- I'i ^fi il^ . i:.:! <}:■'•: United States of America. 1 8 ^ underwood, with which this whole coun- try is infefted and overfpread. On their feet they fometimes wear pumps of their own manufa^ure, but generally Indian moccoflbns, of their own conQrudlion alfo, which are made of ftrong clk*s, or buck's fkin, drefled foft as for gloves or breeches, drawn together in regular plaits over the toe^ and lacing from thence round to the fore part of the middle of the ancle, without a feam in them> yet fitting clofe to the feet, and are indeed perfecHy eafy and pliant. Thus habited and accoutered, with his rifle upon his ftioulder, or in his hand, a back- wood's man is completely equipped for vifiting, courtfliip, travel, hunting, or war. And according to the number and va- riety of the fringes on his hunting fhirt^ and the decorations on his powder-horn, belt, and rifle, he eftimates his finery, and abfolutely conceives himfelf of equal confequence, more civilized, polite, and more elegantly drefTed than the moft bril- N 3 liant I t. Y \> ' ii ?! h \l\ «t (f II ! ,il < I ' I' 1 ,itfV- r 1 ' ' '^' 1 I liii n i 1 1 ; •1 ! 4 ■J I hri;-:v IM' 182 -/^ Tour in the v liant peer at St. James*s, in a fplendi(i and expenfive birth- day fuit, of the firft fafhion and tafte, and moil coflly ma- terials. Their hunting, or rifle (hirts, they have alfo died in variety of colours, fome yellow, others red, fome brown, and many wear them quite white. Such fentiments as thofe I have juft expofed to notice, are neither fo ridicu- lous nor furprifing, when the circum- Hances are confidered with due attention, that prompt the back-wood's American to fuch a train of thinking, and in which light it is, that he feels his own confe- quence, for he finds all his refources in himfelf. Thus attired and accoutered, as al- ready defcribed, fet him in the midfl: of a bound lefs foreil, a thoufand miles from an inhabitant, he is by no means at a lofs, nor in the fmalleft degree dif- mayed. With his rifle he procures his fubfift-; ^nce ; with his tomahawk he eredts hia iheltcr, Vn'itedStates of America. 183 flielter, his wigwam, his houfci or what- ever habitation he may chufe to refide in ; he drinks at the cryftal fpring, or the neareft brook; his wants are all eafily lupplied, he is contented, he is happy. For felicity, beyond a doubt, confifls, in a great meafure, in the attainment and gratification of our defires, and the ac- compliQiment of the utmoft bounds of our wifhes. This digreflion, which I thought ne- ceflTary to imprefs an idea of the fingu- lar appearance and fentiments of thefe men, for that reafon, I am hopeful, will be excufed ; and for which, I flatter my- felf, this will be deemed a fufficient apo- logy. N4 C li A P, i> it M ;., , 1 I 'ij t.r j i. S !l( ;: \ ! ri ,! h' I :* \n I- 1 . , . i , ■ It:: ill I 1:1:, ^r- !■: 184 j4 Tour in the CHAP. XXIV, Catdtvha Indians, The King. Once a powerful Nation, Cujioms, Depopulation, Caufes thereof* Manner of Life* Abortions of the young fVomen, ON the morning following I purfued my journey to the Catawba town8> which are between thirty and forty miles diftant from Charlottefburg. Having hired a perlbn at Charlottef- burg, who was well acquainted in the nation, and converfant in their language and cuftoms, to ferve as my guide, and interpreter, if there ftiould be occafion, we arrived at the nation that evening. Our horfes were turned out loofe, and we lodged in a wigw^am belonging to a family of thefe Indians, in which my guide was very intimate. My bed was a large bear's fkin, with a blanket to cover me, and I flept on the ground, before the fire. Being very much fatigued, I relied tolerably well, and in • ' * the and to a my United States of Atrurica, 185 the morning I arofe early, as ufual, and walked out to view the town This day I had the honour of being introduced to the king, or chief of the Catawba nation, whofe hard-mouthed Indian appellation I cannot recolle(^, but his Englifh name was Joe. He appeared to be a ftrong, (Iraight, well-looking, robuft fellow, little or no way diftinguifhable from the reft, other- wife than in the accidental gifts of his perfon ; for he feemed to me the likelieft, beft made, and handfomeft man in the nation. I was not a little furprifed to find that they all fpoke Englifh very intelligibly ; and they informed me that they under- ftand, and pronounce it as well as their own language. This once numerous, powerful, and even lately very refpe£table nation, is now dwindled away almoft to nothing, there being at this time no more than fixty or feventy warriors in the whole, and fuch they are, as would excite the derifion and ( ., . 1 » ; I t ■ f{li f. (• u Mr %l ; sf It ■: I II il il i,« I i 1 i \\ 'l:;.!iailS:.., I ' ' ; "IM fc! I'll c i.ii , tl:.. r ; if !■ V n i t i t ii..'. !■' li\ !' |! CHAP. 1, I hV iPi ■ I; «ti M 1 ! IS' I i ■■ I- f \\ r;v r' '•'i 1 1 ■■An ■il I jl 'Ti ; III' 192 j4 Tour in the CHAP. XXV. Catawba^ s vaft Property* Their ManufaSJurci. Their 'Najiinejst THE Catawbas are indeed a poor, inoffenfive, iniignificant people, enveloped in filth and naftinefs of perfon, for no Indian has any ideaof clcaanefs. But they poffefs an extenfive and moft valuable body of rich, fertile land, con- taining more than one hundred and fifty thoufand acres, which they hold in abfo- lute property and fee fimple inheritance. Should their depopulation continue as rapidly as it has been hitherto, in a very few years this enormous, immenfe eftate will center in a fingle family. However, this eflate, vaft and immenfe as it is, is but a poor compenfation for the lofs of a whole province ; for this nation formerly pofleiTed, and were the adlual proprietors of the greateft part of North Carolina. I am iC I i ■ L I 1 am Vni ted States of American 193 i am told that there can be no certain determined judgment formed of the man- hers and appearance of the native, uncivi- lized, wild, weftern Indians, from thefcj who feem indeed, in a great meafure, to have lod that martial independent fpirit^ for which that whole race of mankind have been ever diftinguiflicd, and to be finking faft into degeneracy and a ftatc of fervility and dependence, inferior evert to the moft indigent df the whites. The Indian women in general are called Squaws, and it is their buHnefs to cultivate the foil, as well as perform the common menial domeftic fervices ; the fole occupation of the men being war^ hunting, fi(hing, fowling, and ftiioaking tobacco; The only manufacture that I can dif- Cover among them is that of party-co- loured little bafkets, table-mats, made of ftraw, and chips, or fplits of different coloured wood ; aild an ill- formed kind of a half-baked earthen ware. VoL.L O ^Thefe V\l~\ ~ i k k. vj ; 1 li !' i \i ."• i! i'l I J: M¥ \ jin' »J: ! i 1 ; H j! ( 1 1 1 If If • s 194 -/^ T'^/zr in the Thefe infignificant trifles arc carried about by the fquaws for fale, and arc piirchafcd for the mod worthlels iiivahi- able confiderations. Many of the Catawbas have alTixed property of various kinds and defcrip- tions, and fome of their hunters .difpofe of more than one hundred pounds va- hie of deer-lkins every year Nothing can be more fimplc, fubmif- five, and obhging than the behaviour of every individual I met with in the Ca- tawba nation, male and female : and there was only their habitual naftinefs, coarfe fare, and rude accommodations that were any wife difgultful to me, dur- ing my refidence among them. However, tbefe people feem to enjoy an ample lliare of the moil valuable of all human bleiTings, the moft eftima- ble of all tranfitory pofleflions, health, contentment, and felicity ; their princi- pal concern proceeding from the appre- henfions of the encroachments of the whites, of which all Indians are indeed, uith J a,- ced ip- )ofe va- r of Ca- and linefs, tions dur- injoy lie of tima- lealth, Irinci- [ppre- f the udeed, United States of America. igj tvith great reafon, extremely jealous and watchful. For no extehfion of territory can gratify our infatiable defires, no bounds can limit our perpetual ufurpa- tions, invafions, and inroads on the un- doubted and fole property and domain of thefe comparatively dcfencelefs and inno- cent race of aboriginal inhabitants. [For a more particular^ account of the charader and difpofition of the Indians, and of the narhe, fituation, arid ftrength, or number of warriors, of each nation oa the continent of North -America, fee Chap* xliii. arid xliv.] O2 CHAP. n m I ! .1 •i ■a h * ii |!;^M ■r^'I '-.i ' : ill i 1' '■t n, ni if I' \ \\ \ r fiF^I : ;• .rur 196 A Tour in tie Hi, I ,1 ' I I il i ■ ■:i |. iii, £ '■ ■ (V ' '■':} 1 . i'l. I i fl .!' ' CHAP. xxvr. Catawba River. An uncotHmon Injiance of Penury. R'utt Mifer. IVretchednefs and Mijery of his Slaves* fVa-^ terec River, Congarees River. San tee River, Their great Extent. Fertility of the Soil, HAVING, m a few days^ fufficiently gratified my curiofity amongft this finking and degenerating nation, I left the Catawbas, and fet out on a journey to a very diftinguifhed place of trade, in South- Carolina, lately entitled Camden, the capital of a diflrid of the fame name^ formerly called, and ftill moft univerfally known, by the appellation of the Pine-tree. Having found my guide, or interpreter, ufeful to me a^ a fervant, I continned ta employ him to attend me^ which feemed to afford him great fatisfadion, although he was engaged for the fmall wages of half-a- crown per day for himfelf and his horfe alfo. However, it muft be acknow- ledged, we always lodged and fared aiike. The dividing line between North and South- Carolina, interfedts the Catawba nation. MVf fVa- Their ntly this left ij to ;, in iden, \ame» rfally LK>ff. United States of Jmerka» 197 nation. The principal town,- however, is in South • Carolina. We fet out from hence in the morning very early, and within the diftance of about feven miles, crofled the Catawba ri- ver, at a ford juft above the confluence of a confiderable rivulet that falls into it on the north-eaft (ide named Twelve Mile creek, leaving the great road or trad* ing path on our right, that leads weft towaids the Cherokee country, our courfc being almoft due fouth a little eafterly; and during all this morning's ride hitherto^ we have ftill been upon the territory be- longing to the Catawba nation. The Catawba is a large and rapid ri- ver, containing an enormous quantity of water : it is about three hundred and fifty yai:ds wide, and, although fordable, is deep» aiid runs in a rocky channel with great velocity. This day we had a dreary ride, and miferable accommodations ', having break- fafted on fome rice and milk, which it w^8 With much difficulty we could pro- O 3 cure, i ' 4 ! \V. 'ill hi Wv:l r r St ' :, Hi; 198 j4 Tour in the 1 1 1 1 'i|r : ! 1 1 , 1 / i '1 M . ; 1'': ^ :i1' , 1 1 , ' fi 1 ■* f :■; P .1-, cure, and we dined wretchedly at an ordi- nary of the fame ftyle, on the banks of a rivulet, named Filhing creek, which wc forded, as alfo Rocky creek, and lodged at night in a houfe, or rather a hovel, be- longing to a Mr. D—, a private aud pe- nurious planter. In this habitation, which had many ftrong features of indigence, was only one room and one bed, which the proprietor himfelf occupied, but very benevolently afforded us (indeed with fome degree of reludance) the accommodation of a pal- let on the floor; and after our fatif.Ting ride of more than fifty miles, eveii this was very acceptable. However this houfe, or more properly flicker, appeared to me as another man- lion of mifery, and ftrodgly recalled to jny ipind the poor oyerfper's wretched habitation, where I lodged the fjrfl night after I left Peterfburg, in Virginia. This folitary reclufe I alfo confidered a? a pqor, difponfolate, defpifed overfeer, in the employment of fpme opi}leiii.t prp- prietoy i*i!, United States cf America. 199 prictor wallowinc: in the wealth and hix- urics of Charles-iown. Fully poirdlcd vvitli this idea, which I had imbibed ovcr-niglit from every penu- rious appearance, I v.alked out early in the morning to take a general view of the plantation and agriculture. After ftrolling about for a confidcrable lime, without meeting a fmgle perfon to anfwer any interrogation, 1 happened to go into a large barn, where to my aftonifli- ment, there were near fifty negroes at work. I alked them to whom they belonged ? They replied, to Mr. D— . Who is Mr. D — ? Where does he live ? — And to my great furprife, 1 found it was the poor pe- nurious wretch qn whofe floor we had lodged, that was proprietor, not only of this eftate, but of many other plantations, together with three or four hundred more half-ftarved negroes befides. I departed from this place with a mix- ture of pity and contempt for the miferable wretch, who, polTefllng fuch a fortune, was incapable gf ufing it as he ought, for O 4 tliQ Ui Mr .1 1 1 IM ^■\ I i ■'' »!-| S' Ilii i .li\ 20O A Tour in the \ li w\ W'. ■ f I 'fi the purpofes of benevolence, and the be- nefit of mankind. But with my heart penetrated with pain and anguifli, I commiferated the fate of thofe unhappy wretches his (laves, whowere not allowed even a fuf- ficiencv of the coarfeft common r^cef- faries of life, in compenfation for the hard labour of their lives, by this griping fon of penury, who alfo endeavoured to avert his ruin, and fulfilled his confiflency, by fending us away without breakfeft. After an unpleafant ride of better than twenty-five miles, and eroding the river Wateree (which is a continuance of the Catawba) in a ferry-boat, I arrived at Camden, or the Pine-tree, about rioon. This river, the Catawba, aflumes three feveral appellations, but in different places. The upper part is named the Catawba, the middle is the Wateree, which appella- tion is continued to it as far as the con- fluence of the great Congarees river, ,on jts fouth-wefl fide, fropx thpnce it is called r: United States of America. 201 called the Santec to its mouth at Cape Roman or Carteret The Catawba river, from its fource in the Apalachian or Alegany mountains in North -Carolina, to the mouth of Santee in the Atlantic ocean on the coad of South- Carolina, is nearly fix hundred miles in length, along with its meanders, and al« moA: five hundred miles in a ilraight line} containing an aflonifhing quantity of wa- ter. Including the other branches of this river, which alfo fall into the Santee, it pafles through a country as rich and fer* tile, and contains on and adjoining its waters as large a quantity of fine land, a9 ^ny river of its extent in the univerfe, 1 ^ * ) i '■>■ h h I !l ""^ i 1 t lil 8 k 1 1 ht IS railed CHAP ^1 J j:.i. Mill' 'i 1 i ■■ii^,,Li . if Jihii .1 1 » ii-i '■■i;i ill I 202 ^ Tour in the .CHAP, xxvir. . , • I Camden. JLands. Rivers. Infers. LihabJtams. Rice, ,: • '; Jndigo.. Manure » ' " ' ., ' ■ ' ' CAMDEN is a place of confiderable commerce, and is improving very- fall, but I do not tbink it meriting the pains, fatigue, and trouble, I have taken to fee it, for I cau difcover nothing parti- cularly remarkable, either in the town, or in the country around it, ' ' It is about an hundred and fifty miles, in a dired courfej^ from Salifbury; but is an hundred and eighty, or near two hun- dred miles, by the circuitous route I made by the Catawbas, and between one hun- dred and fixty and an hundred and eighty miles from Charles Town. There is no hill, fcarcely an eminence near it, excepting Santee hills, about thirty miki, to the eaftward, on the fame fide of the river, but at the diftance of fe- veral miles from the banks, and they continue 1:: \ U?iited States of America. 203 pontinue in a chain, nearly in the fame d ire dl ion, for thirty or forty miles farther. Here the land is divided into firft ancl fecond low grounds, and high lands or barrens. >> ^/ > - - . •• • •' • *• r - The firft and fecond low grounds are what is cultivated, and formed into plan- tations, producing crops of Indian corn, rice, and indigo. '- ► ^ « - The high or barren land is divided into oak and pine barrens ; of which the oak is always the fign of the more fertile foil, for the pine barrens ^re only pine or fir-trees growing, fcattered promifcuoufly, in a bed of loofe, deep land, which fcarcely produces afingle blade of verdure, and is exceffively fatiguing and troublefomc for either horfes or men to travel through, every ftep therein finking almoft to the. knee. H --yiij«.' ,.*U i an .<.-ii w,i*i- ^i-'V-.^.-. . In the woods, efpecially in the low- grounds of all the rivers, creeks and branches of water, vaft quantities of reeds fpontaneoufly vegetate, and are in a per- petual flate of verdure, affording moft excellent '. : i *i ,•1 !i 1 if it c \ V \ 1 ^^i i!:t;ii i %m I f'M i,^ ! ^ i; ! 'iw:^ 1' P :'' .,!is| ' 1 •1 i'rlllil , ! :'N'f| '!' . 1 . 1 .■■ I' 1 I i,;i 1 204 A lour in the excellent food for cattle and horfes, which keep fat upon this provender all the year round ; for no provilion or forage of any kind is required to be laid in for them againft the winter, as during that feafon they are the fatteft. For here all the inclemeilcy of the weather is in the fummer, when the in- tenfenefs of the heat, and the fcorching rays of the fun, the multitudes of noxious ;ind ' troublefome Hies^ and innumerable other pernicious infedls, continually ex- hauft, prey upon, and torment every living creature in tlje fields and woods, fucking their blood, fretting, and torturing them al- mofl to death ; fo that at this time of the year, every kind of beafl falls away, and be comes miferably poor and lean. For 6ven to mankind, with all his refources and ad- vantages, the heat then becomes intoler- able, nor can he find any fhelter or defence Againft the afTaults of thefe flies, infedls, atid poifonous reptiles, that then infeft the whole furface of nature, . . - - / ..^ : The ■i I The United States of America* 26^ The country is throughont one conti- nued plain and foreft, with the plantations and fectlements formed only upon the fides of the rivers and watcr-courfes. The in- habitants are a feeble race, of a tawney, or yellow i(h hue, and fallow, cadaverous complexions ; but many of the rice and in« digo planters in this neighbourhood ar« very gay and opulent. Even the Negroes are (hrivelled, and di-^ ininutive in fize, compared with thofe in Virginia ; nor is their value equal, as I am informed, to theirs by near fifty per cent. The culture of both rice and indigo Is extremely unwholfome, as the former mu(i be covered with water, during the greater part of the time of its vegetation ; and the putrid exhalations, proceeding from th^t ilagnated water, muft be particularly inju- rious to health, and Qccalion obllinate in* termittents. The indigo alfo requires a gf eat deal of water in its manufaif^ure, and foon be^ comes rotteit and putrid in this fultry climate : afterwards nothing can be more o offenfive •1 f f ! f :■ : f t I ,i %\ i U3 I I '•■■'.: i ! I (il mi '' ■ ■ i !' !■ li III lil^i i I ' I i! 1:^ It ' 1 •i n i .'"1 T >lB>, 3a Ifm ' >!;' ;r' !; ■:!' ,' I 2o6 ji Tour in the ofFenfive and infalubrious than it is ; yet^ in that ftate of the higheft putrefcence, they manure their lands with it^ ipreading it over their fields whilfl: wet and ftinking, which thereby become abo- minably noifome, and abfolutely render the whole iurrouhding atmofphere, within the influence or contad of the ofFenfive putrid effluvia, extremely deleterious and baneful. r South-Carolina was, for a long timef, tvithout a fingle court of judicature for the diflribution of law, juftice, or equity, throughout its whole extent, excepting at Charles Town, the metropolis, which was a grievance of very great magnitude to individuals, and really detrimental to the province at large ; to palliate which ^ the jurifdidtion of fingle magiftrates was en- larged, and extended. However, it was peculiarly beneficial to the inhabitants of Charles Town, who were in a great mea- fure enriched thereby, as a vaft concourfe of people from every part of the province. United States cf America, 207 as well as from other governments, were then drawn there perpetually. But lately, South-Carolina has been divided into fix diftind diftridts : viz- George Town, Charles Town, Beaufort, Orangeiburg, Camden, and Chawraw : at the capital^ or chief town of each of which, courts of juftice, common-pleas, quarter- feflions, &c. are eilabliihed, and regularly held. Since that period, the whole country has been confiderably be- nefited by the meafure, and has flouriftied exceedingly. In the calculation, made by the Congrefs, of the number of inhabitants in each date, South-Carolina is faid to contain two hun- dred and twenty-five thoufand one hun- dred and fixteen, of which one fifth part only are Whites. I have good reafon to believe this number to be exaggerated about twenty- five thoufand one hundred and fixteen. This country has alfo decreafed in popu- lation confiderably fi nee the rebellion, efpe- cially fincethe evacuation ofCharlesTown, 9 when i I "Mi ill ^ *ri » ♦■'I ir t'^%%'^' k' i ta- il. f.s l'-"l fi i t'; 1 1 ; 'V ' i - ! 1 1 'V 1 I 1 1 < h 1 ' frl.. ■ ( .1 1' 1 1 i 1 ' 'i ■ ■■ J,i' i Ilj':^i I I Im I 1^ libS !ii Tear /tf i?i^^ ^heh it 13 fuppofed near ten thoufaiid inhabitants left the province. - Throughout all this large and valuable Jprdvincfe, there are only three fea-ports j the chief of which is Charles Town^ i«rith George Town on the north-eaftj and Port Royal on the fouth-weft : the latter has much the beft harbour of the wholcj the other two being incumbered with bars at their entrance, which render them in- ftcceffible to large ihips, sind diffictilt to Any, efpecially ^s feveral of thefe bankd and quickfands are reported to ilu6ttiate^ and frequently change their po(itlon< . I I Ml "* tf 1 1 ' I u' * « CHAP. ), I' ' i; i United Stiiies of America, 209 CHAP. XXVIII. Great Curiojity of the lower Clafs of Inhabitants^ Impertinent ^uefiions, Conje^urcs cf my Guide* Rendered ferv'iceable. . , ' HAVING foon fufficiently gratified my curiofity in Camden and its vicinity, and hearing much converfatioil again concerning Henderfon's fettlcment on Kentucky, the rout to which being now thought fafe, I changed mydefign of pro- ceeding to Charles-Town, for that of an expedition to the Ohio, which had long been the firft objedt of my wiflies ; in- tending to defer vifiting Charles- Town, Savannah, Augufta, St. Auguftine, &c. until after my return from Kentucky. Accordingly I fet out for Salifbury, by the neareft way, intending to pafs through the Moravian towns on my journey from thence to Hillfborough, from which place I propofed to begin my expedition to Henderfon*8 new fettlement j thefe Mo- ravians and their towns having been the Vol, I. y- P only 1-' ii { ) I • '^ I ■!, . W-. mis ' % \ ?' if i i:^; !i; l\ ^ ^ I I ^'.! S if H i^ I III 0^ ■i II ; I M •If ^1:!" I; 5.:' r ?' • ill i; li ::^i-?:r [if Ml I ^-1' ■ is Ti /t 2IO y/ Tour in the only objeds and places deferving atten- tion, that efcaped my obfervation on my progrefs fjuthward. It was about the laft of April when I departed from Camden, the heat of the weather was increafing faft, and began to be troublefome : but this was the very beft feafon of the year to enter upon my prefent hazardous undertaking. On the third day at noon my guide Clifton took his laft farewell of me, being nearly oppofite to Charlottefburg, the place of his refidence. Having found him extremely ufeful and attentive, in return for his fervices and fidelity, I prefented him with a gra- tuity of eight dollars at parting, over and above his f.anty wages, at which the poor fellow was abfolutely over-joyed, and, as I have frequently heard fmce, has re- founded my praifes, and his gratitude, far and near. ,. . It may not be improper here to obferve, how very troublefome and difagreeable the extreme curiofity of the lower clafs of I ••' 9 «i- l . rve, labk IS of itt- Um'ied States of America, 211 inhabitants at firfl appears to Grangers and travellers. I was for a Idrig time exceedingly pef- tered with the impertinent interrogations of, * What was my biifinefs ? What I fought after? Where did I intend to fettle? and What brought roe to this country ? * As I always found fotiie expedient to' evade anfwering thefe queftions, each refolved his own in the manner his ima- ginations and conjectures inclined him to believe, and they were all fatisfied ; but every one was prefling for me to fix my refidenne in his neighbourhood. My honeft guide firft took it into his head, that I was endeavouring to difcover a judicious fituation to Commence and ex- tend an European commerce ; but finding that I pafled by and overlooked the mod excellent fpots for that purpofe, and that I took great notice of the face of the country, and of the quality and fertility of the foil, and examined into the date, nature, and mod^ of agriculture, as J pafTed ; all P 2 thefe. ' II- ' r ii'i I ! Li 'U '■ •■If :■ »•• ■ ■ '-'if ^:m i i Ij ?"l; ' rj ta ^(i| ^ j J.i:^ , i )i ' . MHJ r:r f i 212 ^ 7o;/r //; ///^ thefe, with my avowed intentions, which I had frequently cxprefled, of vifiting Henderfon's fettlement on Kentucky, in- duced him at length to alter his firfl; opinion, and form an abfolute conclufiooy that I was a fpeculator in lands, fparing neither trouble, expence, nor enquiry to difcover the fined land, and beft bar- gains, to make purchafes of. This fuppofititious report he conftantly circulated, and it fpread with great celerity to an aftonifhing extent. However, I never found any injury or prejudice attend me on that account, but rather the reverfe, for every perfon appeared ftudious to contribute to my amufement and informa- tion wherever I went, and by this means I acquired a degree of knowledge, which otherwife could not have been obtained in double the time ; and befides I was al- ways beheld in a refpedkable light. , I '■*. I !.B!": ? ■ '1 CHAP- m United States of America* 2 1 3 ; 1 1- 1 •' p. CHAP. XXIX. S^Ujluty. Moravian River. Moravian Towns and Settlement. Peculiar Cujloms and Police, li omen in Common. Flourijhing State, Their Manufac- tures. Produce. Salem. Bethania, Ecthabara. 'Their Situations* AS I rode eafy journics, it was on the fourth day after my departure from Camden that I arrived at Salifbury. Here 1 remained but one night, and fet out next morning very early for the Mo- ravian towns, which lie ainioft due north from Salilbury. I crofled Grant's Creek about four miles from the town, and juft above its mouth I crofTed the Yadkin, at a very bad ford, about nine or ten miles from Salifbury. About ten miles farther I forded the Moravian River at its mouth, juft above where it enters the Yadkin, and rode along an exceeding bad rough road up the weftern fide of the river, until I arrived at Bethania, which is the moft wefterly and northerly of all the Mora- P 3 vian ■ *i I !■ K * ' I il I ■"• • ! ■' i ; •ji'fl i. ' 1 ! ■ '■ 'l-.?i| 1 ' '■ ■.H'f! ' ' ^ ;l 1 i , - ' 'f •;V ' i . ■ ■■■Ji- 1 , ' 1 ! ■ ' :,:|r }: lijiiii !!f liiliiif ' !l!:' i' r ■ I im^ 1;.. :k ff l-'ir 214 ^ Towr in the vlan townsi being about fifty miles froii^ Salifbury. It Hand? upon a water-courfe name4 Bethania dreek, which is a conliderable branch of the Moravian River. It was late at night before I arrived. I was extremely fatigued, and departed next mprning for Bethabara, which I reached to breakfaft, after fording another branch of the Moravian River, about (i^ miles on this fide of Bethania. This town is ten miles from the other j but being informed that Salem was the principal, I immediately proceeded on after breakfaft, and arrived there about noon, this place being only about feven iniles diflant from Bethabara. This fociety, fe£k, or fraternity of the Moravians have every thing in co;nmon, and are poffefled of a very large ai>4 pxjtenfive property. They have a kind of monaftic in- ftitution in their internal police, and in bringing up and educating the younger of bptH ff^i^es, who are fo^Jly fecluded from m- and iget ided from United Stafes of America, 2 1 5 from converfation, or intercourfe, with each other, until marriage j after which a houfe, a portion of land, (lock, and uten- fils of every kind, are allotted each couple, and the produce of their labour and induftry is depofited in the common flock. From their infancy they are inftrudted in every branch of ufeful and common literature, as well as in mechanical know- ledge and labour, which even then is converted to beneficial and profitable pur- pofes, for the emolument of the com- munity at large. But their peculiar uniformity in drefs, and the long beards of the men of that particular fedl of them, commonly called Dunkaids, have a very fingular, flriking, and uncouth appearance. The children are feparated from their parents during their earlieft infancy, and are brought up altogether, each fed dif- tind from the other, in a kind of femi- naries, as belonging only to the whole fociety, to whom colledively a parental 4%£tion is by this means affiduoufly in- P 4 culcated ^ 'I J 'J 1: ' ,W. ,) '1 I • :! ■•! m ; t ,7 i \' I , f. t 1, i 1 1 1 11'^ I f 'tto tin ' 'I- lilii^ ■J I ■!■]' IM' I ir'^ It ,i' J. 2l6 ^ Tour in the culcated, cheriflied, and eftablifhed \ and all perfonal attachments and paternal love and regard are as diligently checked, difcouraged, diminiihed, and, in a great degree, annihilated. It is faid that parents adually cannot diftinguifti their own offspring from others; 'and that the children alfo as foon forget every trace by which they might recognize their parents : as they are fe- parated during the earlieft ftage of in- fancy, this is readily accompUlhed and eafily accounted for. It is alfo reported that thofe members of the fociety who have arrived at years of maturity, particularly the rulers or elders, enjoy their women in common, fo that the parents on one fide are difficult to be afcertained. This circumftance, how- ever, though much and almoft univer^ fally credited, they themfelves ablblutely deiiy ; and I fliali not undertake to pro- nounce a decifion, or even an opinion, ppe way or the other. , • . The United States of America. 2,- •^ The Moravians have many excellent •nake large quantities of butter, flour and provifions. for exportation. * They alfo poflefs a number of ufefu! tt'^r7/T^-«^-oX::£ k fn' r ^P'^ '^' ^^""^^ ^°""try with « for fome hundred miles around S;^., and .etached frl ^^^ lea, focety, or order of peocle L .l «rtai„,y are valuable f'^ ' 'and ^ lation and improvement "'*'°^P°P"- It IS impoffible for me to relate or difcover one half nf ,»,. r ■ ""^ Smv'ia! T^'. ^"^ P-"'-"- of the SenT ' .r^ ^'^ ^"^ ~«-«ed ^ wence I made amongft them, for T re "•^ed there but thre, days/and ihl; Ihavp ! I' '■f i. CI en ^ ! !,' % . 1; if •f H'ferti li -r' ii I '' I Id 2l8 A Tour in the I have mentioned is only a {ketch of their exterior en pajfant. And as I have no doubt but others have fufficiently explained the principles and minutiae of the internal government of this fed or fraternity, with the advan- tages of a better opportunity of informa- tion, and fuperior abilities and. knowledge of the fubje£t than I am able to boaft of; therefore I conceive it is totally un- necefTary for me to enlarge any farther upon that head on this occafion. Salem, their principal town and fettle- ihent, is feven miles from Bethabara, feventeen from Bethania, about forty- five from Salifbury, and near ninety miles from Hillfborough. * It (lands on Bellews Creek, a branch of the river Dan, which runs into or rather principally compofes the Roano^k ; although the other two Moravian towns are built upon branches of the Moravian River, or Creek, which is alfo pretty confiderable, but falls into the Yadkin. CHAP, p. United Sf^fes of America. ^19 CHAP. XXX. ^he Ararat Mountains. *Tryon Mountcfins. Mora" v'lan Mountains* Carraivay Mountains, Grand and beautiful perfpe^ive Views. IN the ride from Sallfbury to Bethania, jny fight was frequently regaled with a glimpfc of the fummit of Tryon mountains or my left, and the (lu- pendous iftou. 1. of Ararat diredly be- fore me. Coming from Bethania to Salem, I was extremely pleafed with behold- ing the fame mountains of Tryon on my right, the Moravian mountain on my left, and the Garraway Mountains in front, although it was but very feldom I could enjoy that pleafure j viz. only in palling over the fummits of the high hills, appendages of thefe mountains. The IVJoravian towns and fettlements ^re fituated on the bafe of the fouth weft fide of the Moravian Mountains, which ?ire in fa6t only huge protuberances from, •\ IM i ■ I ■ .:! , I' !■-! ■'!'*. t ii I i S ill I fi 1 1'} ■ 11 ■/Iff'' i' III !fl:ij, f I 'I'":;; ■■;)!■ »l i I ' |i;: '■ iffdi ; ■ ".1 'it. ill!.? tm ^■n iv^^n'-J 220 -^ Ti?«r /« /;5^ from, or appendages of, the ftupcndous Ararat on t!ie north-weft, and the Carra- way Mountains on the fouth-eaft, to which they appear equally to belong. The foil in general is rich and fertile, the face of the country rocky, broken, and mountainous, though many of the Moravian fettlements are choice level fpots, and the whole is extremely well watered with excellent ftreams of that fluid, light, clear, and wholefome, which are likewife converted, by the ingenuity, labour, and induftry of the inhabitants, into the ufeful purpofes of turning mills of many different kinds. On the fourth day after my ar- rival at Salem I left it, and proceeded on my journey to Hillfborough ; and, defiring to fee as much of the country as poffible, 'ntended to take a very cir- cuitous route to that place, by the lower road over the Allamance, as 1 had come out by the upper road over the Reedy River on my firft journey fouth- weft- ward. ' . For 221 ^"'i' ' 'i 224 yi ^^«/^ /V/ //^^ and immenfity of the general objeds which compofe the furrounding, pleafing, awful fcene. ^ .. -, The trees were all juft putting forth their young and tender foliage, over which the fun beams difplayed a beautiful chear- ful luftre. The birds were warbling forth their melodious and vaciegated notes, welcoming the vegetation of returning fpring. Odoriferous gales, from every diredion, pervaded the whole furround- ing atmofphere, with the moft elegant and grateful perfumes. But fociety, en- dearing delightful fociety, was wanting to form and complete the felicity of man. m i ' ■ 1:1 km fil 1 -i ' '. i _-V:'. .1 > ..>r M . 1 1; ,1, :ii:f '1 i CHAP. ii '! United States of America, 225 ." . c H A P. xxxr. • t i Great ^Uamaucc, Regulators, Hilljborough. Cok- nel Mac Donald^ and the unfortunate Loyalijls of North Carolina. Their Difojler at Afore* s Creek Bridge. Their hard Fate and barbarous Treatment. ' WITH a folltary fighi occafioned by, and cxpreflive of, the want of a proper objed to fhare, increafe, and to whom I might communicate the ple»- fures of my imagination and fenfes, in the enjoyment of this elegant perfpedive, I left this charming fpot (defcribed in the laft chapter), and proceeded down the de- clivity of the mountain. * Having dined at the ordinary at the foot of the Carraway ridge, where I had lodged formerly on my firft expedition to the fouth-weftward, at the place where the upper road from Hillfborough to Salifbury crofTes this, I arrived at another indifferent houfe of public entertainment, where I was obliged to take up my refi- dence for the night, after a journey of fifty miles, which, in this rough country, VgL. I. Q^ , 2"*^ ■> K i 11 ' 'Xr. i i if. I k !l I!, 'ii' I " mill •': i 'P Hi: J"' ' : ! , , M I- J ' :'\i 226 ji Tour in the and bad roads, is indeed excefTively fk^ tiguing both for the horfe and his rider. Ever fince I crofTed the mountain I have been defcending all day between the Deep River and the bafe of the Carra- way Ridge, and never at any confider- able diflance from either.. This ordinary, where I lodged, is fituated at the croffing of two great pub- lic roads, viz. that from the Moravian, towns (in which I have journied fmce I left them), to Wilmington, Brunfwick, &c. on the coaft of the Atlantic, and the lower road or great trading path from Hilllborough. to Salifbury, &c. which now was the way for me to proceed by. Accordingly, in the morning, I took my left-hand crofs-road, and after a long, but pleafant, ride down the eaflern fide of the Allamance Creek, I arrived at night at the houfe of a Mr. Michael Holt, a Dutchman, whofe plantation was ad- joining the creek, near the place where it enters the Haw River; having ob- ferved tbat I rode over «i great deal o£ 6 excels 1 the rra- ler- Vnited States of America. 2 27 excellent land during thefe two days^ the lafl of which I likewife travelled at leafl fifty miles. Mr. Holt, although a High Dutch- man, or rather the fon of Dutch or Ger- man parents, for he himfelf was born in America, is a very loyal fubjedt, and entertained me with great hofpitality. He is a magiftrate, poffefles a confider- able property, and has 'a large (hare of good fenfe and found judgement, but without the leaft improvement from edu- cation, or the embcilifhment of any kind of polifli, even in his exterior. In the eourfe of a long interefting converfation, with which he entertained me, and really afforded mc a great deal of fatisfadion and information by his fofible, blunt, and fhrewd remarks on every fubje£t occafionally, he explained the whole grounds, proceedings, and termi- nation of that mod unfortunate and much to be lamented affair of the Regulators, which made fo great a noife in North Carolina, their fcene of adion, as well as in- all America befides. Qj» But, li' f t'i 'I i ■ f i '■ ' 1' ■ ,•; » 1 ' 11 liiiii i . 228 i/f Tour in the But, to avoid throwing rcflcclions and cenfure, however jiift or other wilb, on tha- radlcrs of perfons ftill in exiftence, out of whofe power it is now ever to atone for their former, perhaps ill-timed, unfortunate, and xniflaken condudt, I [hall fufFer it to reft in oblivion, only obferving that thofe un- happy, ill-fated vidims, the Regulatoi^ of North Carolina, were, and ilill are among the worthieft, fteadieft, and moft refpedable friends to Britifh government and real conftitutional freedom. But op- prefTion, mifreprefentation, and ill for- tune feem ever to have been the attend- ants on, and inaulplcious fate of exemplary loyalty and virtue, I left Mr. Holt on the fecond dav after breakfaft, and crofling the Haw River, &c. at a very good ford, arrived at Hillf- borough to dinner, having rode only about twenty-fix miles. [This Mr. Holt, of Orange county, , fome Americans from Guildford county, . almoft all the (^hiefc of the forjftcr Regu- lators, V after River, Hillf. I only ounty, ounty, Rcgu- latcrs. fators, and about {\ft^r . ° fccnerai (now m Lont1nn\ 1 »ng received creit ph. ''°"^' '■•''^'^ particular dire Jl V '"""""cement and as militia Tn ^ ^°^'' '"h'^bitants miiicia in arms, who nr« --OUS f„ this pro iJee he I "^ ""' • "oney, and troops, if thpv . u penetrate as far as Wi JnVton „?« 'r W'cfc, before which he lavT; f " ' the river of Gape Fea on h ,°' '■" ofwar.accordfnglyTj"':"''^^^^^ about fifteen hJl , '^ ''""y^^ nireen Xumdred men vrithm , f days. ' ■' mi- :,. . . "^"^'n a few having committed fo^eXtpt:;;"' ders and miftake,. which L l™" ,.^^ «ie meaiure compelled to do. ^3 much li'PlI ' 1 ;i n ■[ i- 1 '11 f I iinh !■ ! : ' I' i»30 >f Tour in the much againft Colonel Mac Donald's incli- nations, and out of his power to prevent, this afforded the rebels an opportunity to affemble and colled in great force from every quarter around, to the numr^ ber of fix or eight thoufand men, tole-«? rably well armed, to oppofe their progrefs. • Yet, in the face of fo vaft a fupe- riority, this handful of brave men, without arms for one-fixth of their num- ber, and even thefe almoll entirely def- titute of ammunition, marched boldly oUj, forcing their way, with great fpirit and refolution, for eighty miles to More's Creek Bridge, within fixteen miles of Wilming- ton, f ' ' Here (on finding thenafelves unfup- ported. Colonel Mac Donald alfo be- ing very fick, and unable to command) by falling into divifions and difler^fions among themfelves and other injudicious meafures, in attempting to crofs this ri- vulet in the faqe of works thrown up and lined by very fuperior numbers of the enemy under cover, and fuppor|ed like- <' i ; wife .If. i Ill \U lity )rcc im-p ole^ refs. aper ium- def- Y on, t and [Jreek ning- nfup- be- nand) fions licious lis ri- ip and )f the like- Xinitcd States of America, 23! wifeTjy feveral pieces of artillery, at a place 'where it was not fordablet upon a wooden bridge, the planks of which had been taken up, and the beams and fleepers greafed and rendered flippery and impaf- iable by the rebels, they met with a total defeat, feveral being killed, (particularly a gallant olHcer, Giptain Mac Leod, &c.] fighting bravely with their broad fwords. General Mac Donald, who, as I have already mentioned, happened then to be extremely ilU and almofl: all their ofRcers being taken priibners, were treated with the utmoft rigour and barbarity, to a de- gree fcarcely credible among civilized na- tions. > Thefe gentlemen were all dragged through the country in triurnph, in the moll diftreffed miferable condition, deftitute even of coinmon nece^aries, and were at laft dif- tributed in prifons and wretched places of reftraint, conftruded for the particular purpofes of cruelty, through the diftant inland parts of Virginia, Maryland, and Ppnfylvania ; and very few of them in- 0^4 deed lip I ill- !•: i t! f ' \f f ' ' ' ft ■ \ i \ 'V ■ \ \ ' 1 I { 1 i i 1 " :l ^ '■ •: li i ' (j . t- \i 'ilillllhl '^f 232 V/ Tnj • r ^^reis^ folutely refufed ff "'^*"'''' ^''- - bu't oitlfrofTherfr'^'^" -«pIat,Io,aIt,aJir°"^-'' Colonel Mar r, j . American Sng r"'"' ^' P-'-"^'^ Earl of ?! % \ 1 i^ i * r i;i' • ,1 ^ a CHAP. ; If IH tl-.i ; nn IS if;. i(;i ! '!; I ".1 234 Ji Tour m the k - 1 , CHAP, XXXII. ifir •tf I. fiVjl 'i ' f \ il ' 1:. I i ! ' :l ' ;1 li I Hiiljlorougb, Ceurti rfjuduaiure. Numbers of Itt* habitants in North-Carolina. Depopulation, Be^ . waiidered and loji. Uninhabited Forejl, Wild Beajis* Great Danger* Hycoe Creek* Country Line Crxek* « MY harfe, although an excellent one, being, as well as myfelf, a good deal fatigued and ftiff with travelling, I remained three day« at Hillfborough, for the benefit of reft and refrefhment. As I obferved before, Hillfborough is the capital of a diftri£t, of which there are fix in the province, where fupreme courts of judicature, with extenfive and peculiar j irifdidions, are held twice a year : each diftridl contains a certain number of coun- ties, of which there are thirty-two in the whole ftate. Every county alfo holds a court quarterly at a court-houfe erefted in .tlie moft central place of each ; befides thofe fupreme courts for tfie diftrids. Within the whole province of North- Carolina, there is not one good harbour, being ' ; ]i'i Ml United States of America. 235 being all obftrufled with bars, and flu6lu- ating fand-banks. That of Brunfwick and Wilmington on Cape Fear river is the beft, but noive will admit fliips of great burden. North^Carolina was computed to con- tain about three hundred tboufand inhabi- tants, in the late calculation made by the Congrefs, and to have a larger proport^oti of Whites than any other of the fouthern provinces, that is, more than a third, and nearly one half. But I am well alTured that this calculation was exaggerated above thirty thoufand at leaft ; and North-Caro- lina has decreafed in population very much indeed fmce the commencement of the late fatal hoftilities, more in proportion than any other ftate. On the fourth day, early in the morn- ing, I fet out in great fpirits for the lower Sawra towns, on the banks of the Dan river, the largeft and moft fouthern branch of the Roanoak, being the firft com- mencement of my journey to Henderfon's famed new fettlement on Kentucky. In I ! A itUtilll :i *- ' ' (i ; .¥■■ ' i r IS I i r Jjk 1' in ■ J M :'i ill !■■ I J 'ri : ! t, 236 ^ 7^//r in the f m In the beginning of this day's ride, I was particularly unfortunate in lofing my way among the various, different, per- plexing paths and tracks that are met with on the north-weft fide of Hillfborough, among which no particular road can be diftinguiflied in pre-eminence. It was alfo unlucky for me that the greater number of the inhabitants on the plantations, where I called to en- quire my way, being Germans, neither underftood my queftions, nor could render themfelves intelligible to me ; and the few I chanced to find, that did underftand Englifh, being chiefly natives of Ireland, moft wretchedly ignorant and uncivilized, could give me no directions to afcertrvin the right way, having fcarcely ever even heard of the name of the Sawras. By this means I am confident that I rode over the diftance of twenty-five miles her fore I had reached, in a dire(fl line, ten miles from Hillfborough, from whence I had fet out ia.the morning. . ii'l* % At ■' ^"""^ ^tata of America. ^3^ At length, after infinite diiBculty. I dif covered Wthing ,i,e a path or old" wh.ch however could fcarcely be afcer in, "'""=.*°'' '•"'»»•"" kowmrl. from u '""^'^ habitation 111;':"' """■'"• "'*-"« -'Hiur: The difagreeablenefs of my fituatmn a .heanxietyofmy.,i„,,,J„ --;nd S-ated by the uncertainty whether S tins path or road, dull diSch a , little ir;H*-;! M '1 .5' f l< li i,; ',! ^ Ml I'lVI 1 i< ■ ■ 'H tM& ^11.,,,. ilrffi p Ii' ii i ii 1: i ' ; , '-1: ■ i i I' i in !> ;• to! I I [#Fi iM I '^ ^ !! II I ; if I ■< 238 ^ 7o«r /« //6^ little glade or favannah, in which I had alighted, aad remained half an hour, for my horie to feed on the fine luxuriant grafs with which it abounded, who was ftill lefs able to fubfift without fome kind of nourifhment than I v/as, on account of the fuperior degree of fatigue he was com- pelled to undergo. At the approach of night, my uncafinefs and anxiety increafed to a very heavy and painful degree, for there was no habitation within many miles diftance around me, in the midft of an immenfe, univerfal, gloo- my foreft, abounding, and extremely in- fefted with wild beads, whofe difmal howls and different horrid yells and cries began to refound through the woods on every fide as night approached ; and I was abfo- lutely deftitute not only of a great-coat, cloak, or blanket, to proted me from the cold of the night, and the dews, but like- wife even of the means of making a fire to remain by, which is the only efFedual method of preventing the approach of the ravenous wild beails of the foreft, that might y;i United States of America. 2-3 91 might otherwife be fo daring as to attack^ and perhaps devour the defencelefs traveller* My apprehenfions were not a little mag- nified by a total want of confidence in my own abilities as a wood's- man, for in that moft necefTary acquifition, and for travel- ling in this country, indifpenfible qualifi- cation, I was yet a perfe<£t novice, being perpetually fubje^fl to get bewildered and loft in going only the diflance of five miles through the woods without a path. In my prefent fituation, I had advanced a long day's ride into the l^eart of this de- fart and uninhabited foreft, even uncer- tain whether the almofl imperceptible path I was in, led to the place Lwifhed to gain : befides, in the fuppofition that it did lead to it, it mufl ftill be at the diftance of another day's ride, which, ia every probability, was alfo deftitute of in- habitants, and equally infefted with and abounding in difficulty aiid dangers. I had been fo negligent and thoughtlefa as to make little enquiry about this circum- ilanc© before L left HUllbprough, and in what ■ V I Iv I i t ■ I •■1 11 ; I 51 ;i i \:ur.\ ,1 : : ' I'! M, (i..f u ^'i ,;>'ii I VI' U ill i >•! 111' l! '■■ V 1 11,'; Bi; B r J''' nit'* ; U ^1 !■■ • i vlii:. t I ifff T" I 11 i.ii'-' >' . i. .4 ' !l 1; i il I 240 yf 7i«r in the what I did make, could receive no kind of fatisfadion, for there was not a fingle pcr- fon in or near Hillfborough, who had ever travelled that way. Nor had I been more provident in lay- ing in fomc little flock of provi (ion or re- frefhmcnt, and other conveniences and necfeflaries fdr fuch a journey ; never ima- gining that there were no inhabitants for the greater part of the way. In this difagreeable, diftreffing dilem- ma, and anxious uncertainty, agitated with every painful refledion, I began to think of returning to HllWborough. This idea was ftrong on my mind, du- ring one hour's time, on the approach of night ; but ftill I proceeded on, deliberating on the confequences of the determination either way. At length, recolleding, that even if I concluded to return, I (hould be under the ncceflity of remaining all night in thefe difmal woods, without a lire, or covering, and deftitute of every protection or defence againft the approaches and at- tacks f Vnltcd States of America, 2^1 tacks of the furrouiuling wild beads, whofe loud roaring and hideous yells continually affailed mine cars, or clfe I mud travclhack again all night : in this cafe I confidcrcd, that as I found fuch difficulty in afcertain- ing and following this dull path in advan- cing forwards during this day, with all the advantages of light, it would be abfu- lutely innpoflible to retrace it one hundred yards back in a dark night, the confc- cjuences of which muft be, that of being entirely bewildered and loft in the woods, and in all probability, pcriiLing in the im- menfe unbounded forefl:, before I could ar- rive at a human habitation. Thefe confiderations determined me to pcrfift in my journey, and to purfue the path forwards to fome fettlement, which, in every human probability, it muft at length conduct me to. In this refoiution I puftied boldly and brifkly on, imtil I came to a very confi- derable ftrea^n of water, in the, low grounds of which I was much puzzled to trace the c,ontinuance of the path. Vol. L R ThU » ! ■ > . s li'i U f I 1" r III li M'' ^ \i'. ! il m i w ¥ II ■J 1 i( . . k : ;i:l .'l ' \: 'i'^ . ■ 1,1 ■' i i i , r ■ ^:^!' ' ' "'-I' m1; ; 1 r, ill i 111 2 2 A Tourr in tie This rivulet is named Hycoe creek ( as [ have been informed fince) and the place where I crofled was fo very miry, that my horfe had almoft funk down in it under me. I was now in great cxpedations of find- ing fome fcttlement, the land upon each fide of this water-courfe being exceedingly rich and fertile, but, much to my mortify cation, I travelled through thefe valuable low grounds, re-afcended the high lands, and rode on fome miles, without the leaft appearance of a human habitation. At length, to my unfpeakable comfort, when hope was almoft fled, and the gloom of evening had confiderably advanced, I heard the barking of a dog, and the low- ing of oxen ; I immediately ftruck out of the path, and endeavoured, by the neareft way through the woods, to gain the place from whence thefe agreeable and welcome founds proceeded. But in this attempt it was my fortune to encounter farther difappointments, and infuperable obftacles, for I foc^ met with ast lace my nder find- each ingly uable lands, c leaft )rtune and It wi ^ i ' t' United States of America^ 245 CHAP. XXXIII. Mr. Hart. A mojl hojphahlc, leni:z'olcnt Per/on, yf;z accoviplijhcd Gentleman, Agreeable Surpr'ifc. For' iunate Efcape. Mr* Bayly, Shange Alamur of Lodging. A lovely Girl. Sawra Tavns. Saivra, Nation. Upper Sawra Towns, MY fituation, as reprefented in the -conclufion of the lafl chapter, was not rendered lefs mortifying by the cer- tainty of a houfe and inhabitants being near, which was put beyond a doubt by the lowing of the oxen and the barking of the dogs, that I had heard, although I had found it impradicable to reach the place from whence thofe defirable founds feemed to proceed. At length I bethought myfelf of calling out as loud as T was able. This expedient fucceeded to my wifli, for, after I had hallooed feveral times as loudly as I could vociferate, to my great furprize and inex- preffible fatisfadion and pleafure, I was an- fwered by a human voice, which feemed to come from fome perfon on an eminence, jufl above the fpot whereon I was fixed. R. 3 How- I ■i I I. : '1 1 *.. IT I fi III 1 % .■' -'^ f-. ;!5 ■ 1 « t 7lf i,J'!l;iMl f •■ i '■ i,l 246 A Hour in the i ■ '{ ^ 1 1-1 :'^: J ' ! i ■;.■ 1' 1i ■■1 i ,; ' ' 1 t 1 ■ 1 i • , i-l '''M .' ■■ i' <1 ' ' ''^'^^ ^e- A oepartcu, and havinf^ been {f,nxx. te continuance of the former di"^,!: c, blind path, whofe diredion o the fea-vra Towns w^as „o>v afcertained to ml ^;ffic.entfatisfaaion,l travelled durit"! h'sJongdaylikewife,untiilateint^af t-noon,,vithcatoncedifcoveri„gt efft atr "' ' '""^-- ^-'^--^> or I Ji! But /'I ; u; .1 ) # J 'I III I tfi ^ M'i J i ^■^j:Hrt1|'f4 1 I ''fin ii, ,( 1 i ^ r '■ ' ■!''''" ' if : i ' ■i 4 ' 1 ■ ■ : t i ' E ■ h 250 A Tour in the But about that time, as I advanced on the fummit of a confiderable hill, I could plainly perceive mountains, vaft valleyt, and deep chafms, precipices, and ravines on my right : for I obferved, that the face of the country had been becoming more and more uneven, broken, and rugged, r.ad " the eminences had been gradually fwelling into higher hills, as I proceeded on, for the laft ten or twelve miles. I now perceived a po.th on my right, which appeared plainer than that I had travelled in fo long : this raifed my doubts, but at length determined me to continue to purfue that which was the dulleft. Fortunately for me, my decifion was right in tliis inftance, for in the evening I arrived at the Sawra Towns, after en- coaucering fome further difRculties in afcertaining the right way among the va- riety of different tracks I met with imme- diately on entering the vicinity of the Itttlement. At the Sawra Towns, I lodged at the houfe a Mr. Bailey, on the banks of the river r'i 1 , ' :. Tint ted States of Amerha. 251 river Dan, a common plain back wood's planter, with a large family of Bel Sa- vages, a hofpitable,but uncultivated mind^ and rude manners. Mr. Bailey had only one room, and one bed, in his houfe, on which he and his wife were accuftomed to fleep ; this they very kindly offered to accommodate me with, but as they were advanced in years, and I was young and healthy, although fuperior in rank and appearance to them, I could not think of accepting their very generous offer, but took my chance on a pallet fpread on the floor from one fide of the room to the other, on which every perfon of the family, excepting the maftcr and miftrefs, lay promifcuoufly, men and womenj boys and girls. The weather being uncommonly warm, I found the pallet by far the mod agree- ble place of repofe, and I arofe early in the morning with the rcfl of the family, which confilied, befides fomc Haves and his fmall children the little boys and girls, pf fevcral fons grown up to maturity, and three ♦ '! I: 1 ■ '1 ,. %t' I, ■ ill Hi f I trv-wf w w '■ ' ■ I 0. i f - ; 1 'l, i i N, : •; !il^l'•:^• 1 rlliiilt' ■; 'ii' ■' il , If •'iii'i! ij 252 ji Tour in the diree young women his daughters, tKe youngeil of whom was juil fifteen years old, a moft lovely charming brunette, named Betfy, of a Ihapeand features per- fedly exquifite and exprefTive, and endued with a mind and manners*, mild, gentle, and delicate, yet quite in a flate of nature, unincumbered with poliftied refinements or fafliionable ceremony, and unimproved by education, acquired knowledge, and modern accomplishments, Mr. Bailey and all his family joined in entreating me to flay with them fome days ; and, as I really flood in greaf need of reft and refrefhment, it was with infinite fatis- fadion that I complied with their very friendly hofpi table requeft. During ten days that I remained at the Sawra Towns, I found the lovely Betfy iny kind friend and conflant companion. She endeavoured to pleafe, and fhe gave d'«4ight. Although truly, and in the mofi: liberal fc nfe, the child of nature, without an alloy either of art or difTimulation, I aCxually difcovered in her mind a degree ^-. of Ion. rree UnUcd States £if Anerica, 253 of generofity, fentiment, and the moll: deli- cate fenfibility, that very few of the more po- lifhed and accompliftied ladies can boaft of. She abfolutely gained on my aflfedions every moment, ^nd it required the utnioft exertions of refolution to tear myfelf at laft from her delightful company. But the image of the lovely Betfy Bailey can never be erafed from my mind, and it is with pleafure I cherifli her remembrance. The Sawras, although once a confider- able nation of Indians, have been long extin£l : there is not even a fmole familv or trace of them remaining, excepting thefe veftiges of their towns, which fiill continue to fupport their name, this being, fortunately prefcrved as the appellation of thefe two fettlements. The upper Sawra Tovv^ns are trifling andinfignificant, compared with the lower Sawra Towns, which is an extremely va- luable fettlement : and although I found more fatigue, and greater hardQiips, dif- ficulties, and dangers in my journey hi- ther, than in all my former travels through 6 America^ i -P'pi' I - ;i|: ml m h f fw^ w t ' 1 f : ! 1 I 254 A Tour in the America, this place is not more than (ixty- five miles from Hillfborough, and ninety- five from Salifbury, in the fame county with the latter, viz. that of Roan, it is fitu- ated; being within only a very few miles of the northern boundary line of the pro- vince of North-Carolina. ' 1.1.! :i r ! :' ' ' "'l m\ ■.iilVi. 1 ■ |: 1 \\ n i CHAP, •m\i iffi ? p. Vjiiied States of America, i^^ CHAP. XXXIV. f)an River. Strange andfmgular Phenomenon, Great Extent. Lowrr Sawra Towns, yl vajl and pr;^ 1.0 ^1^ 1^ In 1.1 ■u Bii 12.2 Si 1^1^ IJ4 Hiotographic Sciences Corporation \ ^^ ^ ■s$ O *'*. ■^..v ^1"^% " iS^ 23 WIST MAIN STRUT WiUTEII,N.Y. MSM (716) t72-4503 1! 'i:.t ■v ;)i ^ ' 4 '• ; . iMr^ R ill 1 ' i [i* '' ■ ' i ■ 1 • t ,'!■ Mi I'D:- "i . li ^^'' . ^, ; ' J 1 ; , . ,t ji :4 ! ' I ! F-l. •* ' ..l i'i''i :^^V:;i:;: »tt| 256 ^ Tour /;/ /y(; and very awful appearance,aflonifhed and inti- midated Mr. Maxwell, who, on his return to Weilover, exprefTmg diflatisfadion with his purchafe, Mr. Byrd, with a generofity for which he was diftinguifhed, returned him the five hinidred pounds, and re- ceived again the property of his lands. That fame year, in the fall, or autumn, Mr. Farley of Antigua, being on a vifit at Weilover, in Virginia, and having under- ftood that Col. Byrd had a large trad of ex- cellent land in the back country to difpofe of, after being informed of the number of acres, immediately offered one thoufand pounds for the purchafe, without ever having feen it alio; which ofi'er was as readily accepted. Mr. Farley, having returned to Antigua, fuffered it to remain in this uncultivated, unimproved flate, and never went near it, until the year one thoufand feven hundred and fixtynine, when he fent his fon, James 7 Parke ^'"''d States of America. j ., Parke Farley. Efq. i„,o Virginia 1. Tided .V ^ ^^' or authority, dJ- ^'ms :r:r"^'°"^ P'-'«-3 and arms, which he rented out keenino • ■»«»>fcd predigiouriy. '"' «,»dT"" "'""■"■"• «»««k«»g- his I ' i- d ^ 1 / ! , f -I • :; Ifl1 }■ 5 1: 1? i-i ''f-p'HP| I I > I ' il' ■r' m ! » 260 -// Te^r /« the his elded daughter, ib that by this means the eftatcwas not entirely out of the family. During the ten days of my refidence at this place, we had frequent alarming ac- counts of the attacks, depredations, and fliocking barbarities committed by the In- dians on the White inhabitants, fome di- flance beyond the Dan, about the head of Sm.ith's River which falls into the Dan on the north fide, almoft oppofite to the l6wer Sawra Towns. This induced Mr. Bailey and his fa- mily, particularly the lovely, amiable Betfy, to be very flrenuous and preffing in perfuading me to defer the profecution of my intended journey, and to proceed no farther, on account of the hardfhips, difficulties, and imminent dangers I mufl inevitably encounter, at this inaufpicious period, in thepurfuit of this propofed ex- pedition to Henderfon's new fettlement on Kentucky, which was Hill a prodigious difliance from me, no lefs than five hun« dred miles, and through the Indian coun- try the greater part of the way, , :-, They ' ^ '1' United States of America, 261 ' They all very urgently and kindly re- queiled me to remain along wi:h them during the enfuing fummer ; and had I at that time attended and given way to the bias of my inclinations, and the feelings of my heart, I fhould certainly have em- braced their hofpltable propofal with in- finite pleafure. But when I maturely confidered the fatal confequences of yielding to the pleafing allurements of the fenfes, and the uncon- trouled fway of the paffions, at my early period of life, I fummoned up all my for- titude and refolution to fupport and afTiil me in the conflid^, determined to perfifl in my original undertaking, however peri- lous, and tear myfelf from this enchanting, but dangerous ftate of felicity, I therefore finally concluded to proceed, notwithfianding the hazard and jeopardy attending my farther progrefs, arifing from the alarming commotions of the Indians, which were now indeed fufficiently afcer- (ained and authenticated. S 3 Whea J ti 1 » !!! ii ri I < I' i« \-. \ .fiiti'ii % illj ni r yrr ni 1 T t^ 1 I^^^Kd ), ■ t ■ H'fi ' 1. 1 'l 1 1 '*> '1 ! ' '' i 1 '!jl ■ ■ 'i , !f ' 1 ! f I*''* ,'• 1, li!: ' : , ■ l; , "r'i' •: ■ K* m «;.'j: ' ■' ■ ! ■■ I' I'li', i I: i'/ I"'.. '.>!■ I i^ (fl Vi ^64 ^ 7i«r in the However, every one, and all the inha» bitants, with the greateft confidence af- ferted and avowed their having fcen fuch fnakes, though very feldom. They reprefented them to me, as the moft formidable and direful foes in exif- tence to the human race, and to all anima^ tion ; poifonous and fatal to a degree al* mod beyond credibility. He is defcribed as fomething refembling a black fnake, but thicker, fhorter, and of a colour more inclining to a dark brown. He never bites his adverfary, but has a weapon in his tail, called his ding, of a hard, horny fubftance, in ihape and ap* pearance very much like to a cock's fpur : with this he ilrikes his antagoniil9 or whatever objed he aims at, when he lead expeds it, and if it penetrates the ikin, it is inevitable and fudden death. So very virulent is his poifon, that it is reported, if he ihould mifs the objed h^ pointed at, and fhould flrike his horn through the bark of a young fapling tree, if it penetrates jnto the fap or vital juic^, \i ) 1 Vniud States of America. ^g, Ae bark or rind will, within a few l.our, f^ell, burft, and peel nff 7"''°"". "felfwillperifh. ^ < and the tree ofmoving';;r:r::rr'^ which he alwaysadoptswhnhri-*'""' P"rfuitofhispre,,'hethrwh^;;;f- cing hfce , hoop, with his tail arifi„. Za ^:a?,t;r^*^^''^'^•''^-s Mies, like othr;r;e„t '" "^°" '"^'^ From the above circumftance, peculiar tothemfe]ves.theyhaveaIfode;iS he appellation of hoop fnakes. ^^''^'^ '^^ Being firmly refolved to proceed «„ expedition to Kentucky Y^T^^ °° "^ hire a guide from rl- V"''*'^^"''^^^ to guwe trom this place, but everv «ufe they were as little acquainted with *<^waya,myfelf, and on account ofThe (Mf- '/ J '■ '\ f 1< ■• ^ '11 J: -^ I u % 'I, I ( V r 266 A Tour in the <•' i didurbances, and violent outrages lately committed by the Indians, at which every perlbn without exception was terrified in the higheil degree. They alfo endeavoured to communicate their panic, fears, and apprehenfions to me; but my ignorancr of the adlual danger enabled me to refifl, with effect, every attack of that nature, and deter- mined me, although I could not obtain either a fervant, guide, or companion, to perfift in the enterprize, however hazardous ; and I even concluded to fet out alone. ']u> ■A, ']• i'^ s^nH i w './if: «' ■ t-v; . CHAP. 'V •. uj.: tl' jfte;, ;' ^"i'^d Slaw, of ^,„,rica. jg^ CHAP. XXXV. ^'i^i the Dan: Fall U, t> . ■, QN the fifteenth da/ofMay I took r ^ -:rc: e:t/r;r '- ^'^icty than T 11 ^ ^^^^^^ "• "^'ng all m tears, and aoneaHn™. this jC;;' "'''""" °'P--''-Soa Bet? •iS:^^:!;:: -r-^ Dan herfelf r,ri, , ^ °''*'" '^e " nerieit, rather than any of h^r k there, although the ford at this pt. extremely rapid, rockv In ? """ particularly to thofe nn' • "^''°"''' -ith and with tht ^^;T''^''' »here- paffin» ,f ,^, ■ . ^"'^"^ manner of Pa'hng It. the „ver being alfo very wide. This > I' ti- \ i ■■< ^ .i I'; '.,1' Xk.' ) :! *■;.;■ .'iu :-j SI * ,i . :r 13 ■' ., ,■ , 268 ^ Tour in the This I experienced to my coil, for being rather inattentive in following quite clofe to my beautiful young Amazonian con- dudoi, who wason horfeback, riding boldly like a man, my horfe fuddenly plunged with me into a deep place over both our heads, and we were carried down the current, a confiderable diflance, with great velocity. Indeed it was with the utmofl difficulty I reached the oppofite Ihore at all, after the greateft hazard imaginable of being loft, notwithftanding both my horfe and pjyfeif were excellent fwimmers. The concern of my lovely guide dur- ing this dangerous fcene was inexpreffi- ble, and only equalled by her joy on my fafe arrival on ihore ; the banks of which being fo foft, fteep, and interwoven with roots of trees, which entangled my horfc*s legs fo much, that I could fcarcely get him up at all : however, at length I aC'- complifhed it after feveral violent ftruggles. There being no inhabitants on this fide of the river, they having all aban- doned their plantations, and fled into a flockaded United States of Ammca. 269 f"ge. upon fome of them I.- . killed by the In^- x ^'"^ ^"""'^ wood, to drv ^'"'' ' '^'^ ■" 'he kind J ^ ^ ''°'"^^ •' ■« this my «»nd compan on was a. .,r 1 ' ^iceable to me andTn i , ' ^"^^ '■'^- hour we fet ou^ "'""°'^ ""an an *her.in':dr:oTnIrmTe""r'"- whichfl.e«p,ere„teda?;i:f;j^^ kind i':- ii \S ! i t I, '\ ■ H.j.[:j \ihi 1: b' '1 ' UTi -p j 5 I' ■ '1 ' i 1 1 ( m 'I I M,l ' ! 5* '< 1 >l r t *! I < H I ,, I 1 ■ ft ! 1 " '. 27a ^ 7 .1- ■rr '^1 : "m m 1: I'M . m m i 1 P ! ! i^-. 1 !■ '1 ■ 1 \ \ i t; :^ 111 I-:! 1?^ V: m 'i '■■ ■■' ■■ ■ 1 i'M^ *.: :. * '-! : '' I /W l^-- I I' 274 ^ Tour in the ii >; b.:.a: CHAP. XXXVI. • Dire fled the JVay by the Indians, Leatherwood Creek, Plantations abandoned. Beaver Creek. Arrive at the Part, Refujed Jdfnittance. ' Y hbrft, "^ho had quitfe as much heed of refrferfiment as me, was alfo regaling himfelf dn the herbage, for I' had tiiirned him Iboft when I fat down to this IndiSin pnWitiVfe feaft. ■' TThelndiah^ dtdA')na&kt a (hift to keep up a kind of converfation by figns and gefttireg, for I did tiot underftatid k fingle wbrd of their linkage, and I diid not then imagine that th'e^ uiidefftood m^ ; but fl'iVcef that time I have had many reafons t?o beKeve jhat fihgliih was not alVbgthei: iJriintdlfgibfe to fome of them, klthou^h they dther could not, or Would ftdt attempt to fpeak iti For after both I and my horfe were fufHcient^y refrefhed, having ftaid with tlietodL night, one; of the Indians was 9 dif- ^in 'U s ■( dJfpatehed sloog with n,. u i- -Ho. I had z::i ;i ^ r " ^omp^nled me for fevan or etfa ' ". upon Smith 8 Rivei- . an^ r , , "^'^c*^, fo. and pointed ::Vth\1o;t^^^ Jl-ed in, we fhoot\rf a ^pT^J^ - large sjr:::,^;^^"^''* Greet ™,i,- u ' "*■**" ^eatherwood r; "' '"'' ""P''" «ftlf into Smith', R.ver. a very capital branch of the Da^ the confluence of trfiich i, k r ' »«=. •!».. ,„ , jf t» T^:. 'z the north fide. ' . f ** '*'* the^r T'' '^''''* ^"* Potation, oa the r,ch low grounds of this creek, but hey were all deferted. not a fiiT/e in' habitant was to be fee„ . a • ^ . horfes Kr^ ' *"*■ *=attle, ^fters habitations, and conveyed to d'fmaHdeas that can be conceived. I ■^^ About (! I 'I (f i; , t '$ I' ' ■■*,.. Il i i i'Hi i 3f ■ I '■■liik' I f.i :l I i iC 1' I, li 'i|i{||m|i|!| I* * • 'i: ...i I- > ■ Ml' ;K:il fl.'iil' ■ I i',S 'it !yr!-'t-'n| ..'5' 276 yf Tour in the About eight miles beyond Leather- wood Creek, I met a man on horfeback, whofc horfe was covered with foam and t * — /-,•% «r« fweat. He feemed to be in the utmoft aflonifli- ment at the fight of me, and afked me, '* Where, in the name of God, I came « " from ?** I anfwered him, I came yefter- dayfrom the Sawra Towns, and was on my way to the fort on Smith's River. ' He then exclaimed, '• Good God ! did ^< not I know that the Indians had taken " up the hatchet, and had begun to kill *' the Whites ?" and looking on the ground, '* declared he faw their tradls," or the marks of their footfteps ** there then j" and afked me " if I had not feen any of them ? But why (faid he) do I afk you that ? If you had feen them, or they had feen you, I certainly {hould *' not have met you here, for they would *' either . have fcalped you, or have put ^* you to death by their tortures." I replied, .** he was miftaken, for I had ** feen them, had ate and flept with them, and <( iC (( . » "I ick, and iiOi- me, came ;fter- LS on r. II did taken to kill n the W'or hen;" any of 1 a(k m, or {hould would .ve put ir I had them> and Vnited States of America, 277 ♦* and that they had been very kind to me, ** inftead of fcalping me, or putting me to ♦* death, as he imagined :" but he waited not to hear the laft words of what I faid, for as foon as he underflood that I had feen them, he clapped whip and fpurs to his horfe back ^gain, as fad as he could make him go, while I gazed after him, imagining the man was mad or delirious. I rode on at my leifure, wondering at this man's ftrange conduft, and compar- ing it with that of the Indians towards me, it was not at all to their difadvan- tage, I foon afterwards crofled another large water- courfe named Beaver Creek, not far from the fort, which alfo empties it- felf into Smith's River. Upon this ftref.m there was a very fine corn or grift mill, which was alfo abandoned by the proprietor, and had been left fo fuddenly, that the hopper remained half full of corn unground, while the other half was ground into meal, and in this condition it continued, T 3 the I I Ml. i" ■ill •. !, m si I j^; ii V rl: ii 'r ' 9" i t ^r W 1 k\ \- f i ! t iu IB v mf^ '! r? f¥ r " " T 1 1' ' i 1 :■ ■' i 1 ,/ . ' 1 I ' ; ' !!. 1 1^1 ri ^f ^: :. f IF l-if^ll^ 278 ^ Tour in the the water being turned ofF from the xnill-wheel. Here I alighted, and fed my horfe, and after he had eaten until he left, fet out again on my journey. , • .. Jn riding about two or three miles farther, I at length came to the fort itfelf, which contained all the inhabitants of the country around, men, woii^en, and children crouded all together. I was exceedingly happy at the thoughts of being once more among inhabitants, but this imaginary felicity was of very fhort duration, for when I went to the gate of the fort, expedting to go in, I was pofitively refufed admittance. My aftonifhment at this ftraiige unac- countable conduct towards me could only be equalled by my concern at fo grievous a difappointment and mortification, for all my entreaties and moft earneft folicita- . tions for permiflion to enter were in vain. They within infifted that I was an eneniy, or a Frenchman, becaufe I had been in company with the Indians, and had t.w United States of America, 2yg had cfcaped unmolefted, and alfo as my accent was different from theirs. This I found they were informed of by the man whom I met on horfeback, and who turned ba'-k full fpecd as foon as I acquainted him of my having been with the Indians. * This man, it feemS) had been difpatched as an exprefs to the next fort, which was a confidcrable diftance off, for afTiilance ; and had alfo been direded to reconnoitre the country between ; to difcover, if he could, what danger was to be appre- hended; whether the Indians were doing mifchief; and what numbers of them were in the vicinity. How well he executed his commiflion, his conduct, already related, evinces ; as alfo how totally unfit he was for fuch a purpofe, having fled with the utmoft precipitation on even hearing of Indians, without waiting to difcover whether they were hoftile or friendly. ' •. -. ,L-. ' T4 CHAP. ' 1 ■' i 1 ■ t > > i 1; ' 1 1' ! |! It.: 1 *"! I m m ! 1:'l I ■ ,1'. i# i !I1 ! ji h: , 280 u1 Tour in tfte % ■ • i 1 \A ' ni I hifil 'vfili I ] ■ .'ST! CHAP. XXXVII. Threaten to Jet Fire to the Foit. Mmitteci. Shock-; ing Scenes of Iniquity andObfcemnefs within. RIU t and viftt the Plantations around* Refohe to Jt-l out on my Jourmy. I Continued to entreat for admittance until they threatened to fire upon mp if I aid not retire, which made me with- draw from the gate to confider what fteps 1 muft purfue, for I never found myfelf in fo fingular and unpleafant a predicj^- ment in my life. Jioweyer, the firft thing I did was to turn my horfe loofe into a very fine field of green wheat that I obferved on the banks of the river ; and I wandered all rounc( the country adjacent to the fort for feveral hours, totally at a lofs what to do, pr in what manner to proceed. This was what is called a flopkaded fort, but to any perfon, excepting thofe who have feen fuch Jn America, it would ap- pear United States of America^ 2% i pear in no refpc6t a place of arms, for there is nothing like an efplanade, counter-* fcarp, nor ditch, neither ramparts nor parapet, qo opt-pofl, out-centry, nor vi- dettcs ; but it refembled a quadrangular polygon, inclofed with large timber, and cuts of treesfplit in two, about twelve or fixteen feet high above the ground, (landing ere^, and about three or four feet in the earth, and quite clofe together, with loop holes cut through alrout four or five feet from the ground for fmall arms. There was alfo fomething Uke abaftion at each angle, which, however, could fcarcely be faid to flank the curtains; and a log-houfe, mufket proof, on each fide of the gate. Within the area, nearly in the centre, was a common houfe framed and boarded, filled in, to the height of fix feet, with Aones and clay on the infide, as a de- fence againfl fmall arms ; it was covered only with (hingles made of pine, which pould be eafily fet on^ fire as well as ■« v.. i.-.. 'J I. ■ ,' ., ^ every ; 1 Tj 1 1 1 ■ 1 ' ( 1 \ f 1 1 1 '.1. t . ! 1 1 •■; • , 'w 1! : r . ill k ^^ ,( * n,; t( ! i. I I n • l& jWfJ' ■1 V, ■ ' ,1 11 I' m m VTil aM >l - 282 ^ Tour in the f. ■. ' ■ '■ . '1.' every other part of the whole ftrudure, without exception. 1 i r ,: I wandered round and rouqd thia fortrefs until night began to advance, and then ventured to approach the gate once more, foliciting for admittance, but with no bdtter fuccefs than before. I ufed every argument my mind could fuggeft to induce them to receive me j put them in mind I was but one man, and defired them to put me under guard if they fufpeded me after 1 was in, if they would only admit me ; and begin- ning alfo to be under apprehenfions for my own life, as the Indians would cer- tainly be tempted to kill a perfon they faw ftraggling round the outfide of the fort, although they did not moleft me when 1 came up to them at a diftance from it; and I alfo confidered that al- though one party of them fpared my life, another party might make no fcru- ple of killing me, efpecially in fo unfa^ vourable a (ituation ; this certain danger infpired me with a defperate determina- tion, ik United States of America . 283 tlon^ and I refolutely told them at the igate, that I muft come in, reprefented the fatal confequences of my l?eing left outfide,andpofitively declared that I would ^bfolutely fet fire to the fort if they per- illed in refufing me admittance. . They qgain threatening to (hoot me, 1 ^iflured them that I would as foon be killed by them as by the Indians, and fblemnly fwore I would fet fir? to the fliockades. Upon this, I was defired to wait a few minutes, until they confulted tOr- gether; at the conclufion of which they agreed to admit me. The wicker gate was then opened, and I crept in ; but, good God ! fuch a fight as was prefented before mine eyes can fcarcely be conceived in idea, much lefs defer ibed. Such a motley crew of" men, women, and children; fuch an abandoned fet of mifcreants, void of fhame, but abound- ing with fear ; fuch horrid imprecations, blafphemy, obfcenenefs, and every fpecies of If ^ \\mi i ■U 1., t^ A m f V , i 't ,' • I:': ,( ■i> i ■; ■ 1 i i i 1- •1 1 'i .' 1 ;. '■•1 . 1. .1 1 '■ ■- PI i pi'i,:- 1 ' ■ ' m •''': ' !; I i 1v lifi ji bI i - jfR V- h| ;j ,| |J||; ^ 1 ■■fi . . ; ■^- - ,r I'l' ;' ll. 1 3? ' iljit' ^ ;: !!''i i #^i:'''i 1 i|li:l! -i't- f| ' 1' -'ti 1 R \ . ■ f !, ^ -It iH i ' . 1 i -i ' ; 1 ■' MTi) s fl' f 1 : i ■ i^ ; 1 1 'm4 i II If '^'-i' 1-1 ^ 1 . f 1 284 -/I? 7o«r /// t/ie of iniquity, I never before nor fince have feen or heard of. No fubordinatlon, no regularity, no propriety, no good condud, not a fingle good word, 1 had almoft faid good thought, wa9 there within thofe gates ; but all was confufion, naftinefs, and the inoft abominable wickednefs. To defcribe the deteftable fcefnes of depravity that I was hourly witnefs of in this place, would be e:ftremely irkfome to myfelf, and difgufting to others; and on this account I (hall pafs them all over, only obferving, that a fet of more wicked, abandoned, fhanjelefs, and pro- fligate mifcreants never were nor can be colledled together. On the next day I propofed to take i walk about the fort, but they wpuld not let me out at the gate. However, on the day following I in- fifted upon it, and they threatened not to admit me again : but notwithftanding, I ventured out, and having faddled my horfe, rode a great many miles round the country. United States of America. 285 country, without feeing a Tingle inhabi- tant, or Indian. I returned to the fort at night, and was admitted ; having acquainted them with my obfervations, and the diflance 1 had reconnoitred around, two young men propofed to accompany me next day, to vifit their father's plantations. Accordingly we three fet out from the fort early in the morning, and went to one of their plantations, which w^as five miles off, where we found ^very thing unmolefted, only the domeilic animals were almoil (larvedi and appeared re- joiced to fee us. f • The other plantation was twelve miles diflant from this, and we vifited it alfo ; here a tame bear, which had been left, di- verted us very much with his antic ges- tures, and his odd manner of f^^luting his two-legged brothers whom I had brought with me from the fort : but as, fooner or later, all, even the deareft of friends, mull part, fo muft they, and the forrow on ^r ii'5*- (' 1: ■I 'iPi % :i T »M ■ !' I- I' % i !■ 'i' ' r 5 1 1 *■ i, :, !■ ; J 'i' ^ ii ;ii \ Is rli^i* b, '2- m .«,' . .( ii; !■• if 1 III \ I' I 'N^wj 'fj r i. I.- 'A- f'l 1^1 ill';: I !:i!: '^ >f:i tw i6 A Taur in titi on the occafion Was" great, even ^s tlieii? joy had been, when they met.* "*^ "^^ '-"''" Wc vifited feveral other plantations, and the two young men concluding td return next day ^to their plantations to remain, we turned our horles heads to- wards the fort, where we arrived in thd evening* *^"* ' " "'•--si;/ Having made our repoft concerning the occurrences of the day, and the ap- pearance of peace and tranquility we had evefy wher^ perceived', it was propofed for eacb perfon to return to his refped&vtf- haijitation on the day following j but tl-' midity, diftruft, and cowardice ftarted i number of objections, which occafiohed many warm debates on the fubje£t ; and' at length it was concluded on to watt 2f few days lojiger, but in the mean timd to di'lpatch two men on each quarter, to fee that all was quiet, ..and that there was no appearance of Indians. For my own part I determined on fettirtg out early next morning to purfue my jour-* ney [r '.r XJnitid States of America. ziy ney to Kentucky, having hired one of the young men, who accompanied me in our ride round the fort, to attend me in this journey, which he undertook to do with great alacrity, and feemed as eager to fee that celebrated place as myfelf. i A ii I M :;,'-i :\ I iJ ; *\ "■: m ! . ■■■J ^ 'j i if 'j< "r-:'iRr;oo c>j' : ']') ;,vi,. u „:'j >:. ?L- /I v.. f rJi virir :•; :J -rr^ A^ v'.ri f> ->■;>..• -^ii .rf ■ k < ^y. -.1 ^ *j -1 ... , .5. ■ I < • . r . n-- t T ^' :^/. J ' . M .. JL/K . "^•^ ■•• *' ;■ ':i""::j t>:* f .wvi' CHAP. .:V ipmi ■ t . ■ * 1; '1 I'l ''. 1: I > 'I , !!■ ! 1 « *^!r if • :;e>-^j 11 f 'it; mi !i. "Ifi !': ,' ■> ) ! .'■ f ni' ' i' « U\[ sS8 wrf 'T&w/- f>/ t/i^ ..> . .. i «^- . ' ; 4 ' ' C H A 1^. XXXVIII. Sltuat'tQn of, the Fort. Smith* s River. Soil. Ghi/higi . Srfakc-rootk Prices (^ Ifheat^ Conn, Beef, Pork^ itoiaccOf isfc. Culture of Indian Corn. Its greai and unlverfal Utility, TiHIS fort is (ituated oh a fmall emi- nence that commands a very fin^ view of Smith's River for feveral miiesj and of the confluence of Beaver Creek \ but it is only the lov^ grounds of the ri- ver and creek on the north-eaft fide that can be percieived ; the lofty timber on th >-\, ceedingly roeky and fteril ;"] the roads, or rather paths, are as bad as can be con- ceived ; and the houfes and plantations are very indifferent indeed ; but there is a great abundance of game, fuch as deer, bears, fome panthers, wild cats, otters, raccoons, oppoflums, wild turkeys, and all kinds of fquirrels. The growth of the timber on the low land is Very large, but not equal to that ort the low grounds of the Roanoak and the Dan : the foil is of a deep black colour, and rather light, but exceeding deep; however it is liable to be flooded* The river is about fifty yards wide, but very much interrupted with old logs, large trees, &c. that have been broughl clo^'n the ftream by the floods after heavy rains ; it is not rapid, but flows calmly along, in a fmooth, gentle current, and it is fordable but in a very few places. The high land, as I obferved before, is very rough, rocky, and poor j fome of it is rather light, and there is abundance of the valuable plant, or rather root of Gin- VoL. L U feng ! .. >t: i;^ I 290 A Tour in the \^: feng found and gathered in the woods, which in China is accounted a fpecific for almoll every diforder incident to the hu- man frame, and fells for more than its weight in gold j here it fells for about fif- teen pence currency, or a fliilling fterling a pound. The inhabitants, and negroes likewlfe find and dig great quantities of fnake-root, of each of the different kinds, which they alfo fell for nearly the fame price as gin- feng : this was exported to Europe, being fent by land-carriage to James River, where it was (hipped, and Britifh manu- factures were taken in exchange for this as well as the reft of all their commodities, at very advanced prices. They alfo fell great numbers of deer Ikins and furs; but the principal of their exports are hogs, which they raife in great numbers, and drive them, in droves of one, two, three, four, and five hundred to- gether, to the falls of James River, and of Roanoak, and to the more populous parts of the country, as well as the fea-ports. Some • ■■,1 United States of Am 'ca» 2 9 1 Sonle few black cattle are alfo brought From this part of the frontiers, but in no confiderable numbers. Deer ikins, dried of cured with the hair on, are fold for about a (hilling ilerling a pound. Raccoon fkins, about fix-pence each. Otter (kins, about two or three Ihillings each. Beaver, &c. in proportion. Their hogs they fell alive, for about twelve {hillings an hundred' weight, that is, if they are bought there ; but when driven down the country, they coft aboiit twenty fhillings fterling a hundred weight. filack cattle fell nearly for the fame priceSi Venifon is exceffively cheap, generally about half-a-erown foi^ a whole deer, ex- tlufive of the {kin. There is alfo a confiderable quantity of tobacco cultivated here, which is almoft all carried to James River, and fells there at the rate generally of fi^teeii, eighteen, or iwenty {hillings per hundred weight. They make very little wheat, and ufe flill lefs J the general price of wheat there at tj 2 home IT 1 1, ' , 1 1 '1 i! 1 - • i M i ii liw :?;•! ii: i. ■I! V .; i:' h r f * ,.'■ r: f . m \b\ V"'J i1>i U'fi leifi:'; !l I' " li^ U:% 292 A Tour in the Lome is about lialf-a-crown per buflicl, which is the mearure they fell it by. But the great fupport of the country ift Indian corn, with which they fubfift themfelves, their negroes, their horfes, and fatten their hogs, after they are in good plight by feeding on the acorns in the woods, which are always called Maji in America j of this there are fome year* amazing quantities, fo that the hogs are frequently fattened with that alone, which th-sy find themfelves in the woods ; but the pork is always foft, and for that re^- fon, people generally-feed them fome little time upon Indian corn, after they appear fufficiently fatted with maft. - «- ' Indian corn is the great ftafF of life in America, and is meafured by what is called the barrel there, which contains juft five bufhels, ahd the price then was a dollar, or four fhillings and fix pence flerling per barrel. v . . ..\ This nowever was accounted dear, for the general price is only three (hillings per barrel, which is itbt quite feven pence 9 ^ "' halfpenny halfpenny a bufliel • tl,^ i «% to fiftv (Jv. 'f'" "■'••'Slis from Indian corn, whirh ;o ■ r • «"ed Maize k ■ " ^"""^ P'^<^« ■"IS, oemg fomew hat flat nn^ «• . yeliowi/h white cow f^^^'°*^* «nd fo„,eti.„es fpectS ""'"" '^''' ^t IS contained \n e-^ro r ««een inches w" „d f o T "^'' ^^ -*« in circum We ? 'T '° '"-^^ - a hard fubftance Jed , ;'' "''■'^'''^ '^^ grains .ro.e^lXX-r'f angles from ,-. a„,, „ 5 ., ' ' "S'" «''eat.bar,ey.orr;;'''"'°'""l->«'ce -et:;ttTeV''"^"^^'-^-"''er covered with 1 th TA '"' "'^ ^^°'« - ' -'"Pofed f three :?T "'"^ ••"*' ^hich adhere ;X tr--'' o-- c^ats. fo the whole very dofely, ^ aiid ,1^ i ■■.k I )■ f* f ti (i r; . !, f . i' 'Ill w •l '■ 1 < '1 1 i (. " '* , i' I ,fl# I'ii'W !■ ■ < ( r F'f i '•''■•'if- J94 ^ 7c«r in the and arc each fomething more than th« whole ear in length, to which they are united at the ftalk, or lower extremity. Indian corn is neither fown, nor reaped. It is planted and gathered. The ground for it, is firft plowed over ope way, quite flufli ; this is crofled by furrows five or fix feet afunder, and thef^ by other furrows at right angles at fimilar diftances, which divide the whole field into fquares of five or fix feet every way. In each crofling, three grains of corn arc dropped , and covered with a hand hoe ; this is performed fome time in the month pf May, and is termed Planting of Corn. After it has fprung up above the ground, when any is miffing, or not come up, pro- ceeding either from bad feed, or worms, vermin, and infects that deftroy the tender flioots, the hills are fupplied with frelh grains again, which is denominated Re- planting the Corn* It is afterwards plowed acroft the firft furrows: the next plowing is acrofs thefe; ari4 firft tbefe ; United States of ^Imtrica* 29^ and fo on alternately, until it is all plowed five times over ; then it is weeded and chopped around the roots of the ftalks with broad hand hoes j this is called Laying bv the Corn* In Auguft and September it begins to bloflbm and (hoot out ears, which is called 7(? tajjelt becaufe beautiful, fliining, filky taflels come out from the extreme end of the ears, and hang waving down. Thefe ears proceed from the joints, from the height of three to fix feet above the ground. There is alfo another beautiful bloflbm at the very top of the whole, which is in reality the male flowers, or farina, as the elegant fhining filky taflfels are the fe- male ; for this plant is both male and female in itfelf. Thefe taflels are as foft as filk, and of all different colours appearing very bright glofly and delightful to the eye. This fl:ate of it is denominated T^he Com being in Silks, U4 Tt f 1 (1 ! I . .^1 Hil '''1 {' i\ it V 1.« i ^ f! II;! \ H '. ■ 11^ II H illii ii W H ■ "ii ■ '": I I ■ ;i^^l I'M •:(• i. |» 296 ^ 7(7«r /« ifje It has been difcovered that the fine fa- rina from the male flowers, being carried by the wind and agitaiion of the air upon the female filky taffels, impregnate them, &nd fill the grain in the ears ; for there is a taffel or filk proceeds from every fingle grain ; and experiments have evinced, that one male will impregnate five hundred plants, when all the reft of the tops, which contain the male bloflbms, are cut off, and only the female, qr ears in filks are left. It has been experienced alfo, that if there be a field of corn within a mile or two of one where all the tops or male bloflbms are cut off entirejy, yet ftill the cars will be impregnated and filled by the male farina brought by the agitation of the air and the winds ; but the ears wil) not be all full. But it has likewife been difcovered by experiments, that if all the tops of male bloffomsare cut off in afield of corn, ancl there be not another field within fix or fe- ven miles, the whole field will be ufelefs ; {here ■i^ t I !v: * ZhiiteJ States cf America^ 97 ihere will be no grain on the ears, v/.iich will not iiU, bccaufe the female part of the plant has not been impregnated by the male. The height of the flalks, when in a ftate of perfect maturity, is from eight to twelve feet and upwards ; with joints at the diftance of eight or ten inches from each other, at each of which are tv*'o leaves or blades, from one to two feet in length, and two or three inches broad. The male flowers, as has been jnft ob- ferved, grow at the top of all, and appear fomethuig like to the heads or ears of rice, or large oats, after the fine farina is blown off. The female flowers are rather below the middle of the ftalk, at the extremity of the ears which proceed from the joints in that part of the fl:alk:. In 0(flober the blades, or leaves, which ^re broad and long, are pulled off, and tied in bundles, being left in the field to cure, and are excellent provender for }\orfes ; for thofe who are accufl:omed to this ^.1 I -I >i \ ! rt ' iii ».,:,: lit. (( t- tjfci! \\ ; '! ' ) ■ 1 ' ! 1 i !■'' ' 111 ,;1 ii. 1^ ! ' i 3 ; r :'•. I '■W !.!' 298 ji Tour in the this will not eat the very fincft hay ; then the tops are alfo cut ofFjuft above the ear. And during the latter part of November, and all December, after the frods have come on, the corn is gathered, two, three, and four ears from every flalk, and the ftalks, each of which is generally above an inch in diameter, are left ftanding in ^he field. A bufhel of corn will plant near twenty acres ; and on the Ticheft lands twenty acres will produce two hundred and fifty barrels, or one thoufand two hundred and fifty bufhels. A moil aflonifhing increafe indeed 1 The land is firft plowed with two horfes in the plough, becaufe the labour is then harder ; but every ploughing befides is done with one horfe only; and one plough will work between thirty and forty acres in Indian corn. The whole of this excellent grain is ufeful, and there is no part of it ftiould be thrown away. United States of America f 299 The leaves cured are excellent proven- der for horfes ; the tops, ftalks, and hufkft are exceeding fine fodder for cattle, and the grain itfelf fupports the inhabitants themfelves, both white and black, befides feeding their horfes, and fattening their fn % X I i iti \t CHAP. )i ' f 300 ^ Tour in the ■'A-r CHAP. XXXIX. 6V/ out for Kentucky, V'ljit the Summit of the IVart Mountain* Difcription of a mojl extcnjive, grands ond elegant Perfpe^ive. Ideas raifed in the Mind, r,l!: 'Ui in AFTER this long digreflion on the cuhure of Indian corn, the grand ftaff of life throughout this continent, I fhall proceed with an ac- count of my journey to Kentucky ; for my white favage and I fet out from the fort early next mornings I had procured rifles, ammunition, atid Indian drefles for us both, which are by far the moft convenient for travelling in that country ; a$ alfo blankets to cover us, asweftiould be obliged to fleep in the woods every night ; befides bells for our horfes, to enable us to hear them at a diftance when they were turned loofe to feed, ancj hobbles, or fpancils, made of ftrong Jeather, and faftened on their legs, to prevent .-. S-> United States of American 3 o i prevent them from wandering out of our reach where we remained all night. I myfelf was provided with pocket comDafTes before I came here, and had befides a very juft idea of the geography of the country, I muft beg permiffion at this place to correal an error I have obferved in all the maps of that country, which give the name of Smith's Rivter to the Stan- ton, for this is a very great miflake, as Smith's River is that which in the maps is named the Irwine River \ and it was on the north^eail fide of it, near the con* fl or water- tourfes, we found ourfelves at night be- ginning to afcend the Wart Mountain^ which is upon the fouth-weft fide of Smith's River ; and We alighted on an agreeable and convenient fpot, near the lide of a brook of water, to put up for the night, turning our horfes out with their bells and hobbles on> to prevent our lofmg them. ' . We ftruck up and kindled a large fire, gathered leaves for us to lie upon, eat heartily of our jerked (or dried) venifon^ drank fome brandy and water, (for w« had brought a pretty large flock along Us), wrapped ourfelves up in our blan-* • kcts, ithd alfo iter- ;be- tam> e of ft an the for with tour United States of America, 303 kets, and lay down under a liirgc tree, with our feet towards the fire ^ having travelled about forty-lix miki that day. I cannot undertake to pronounce whether ir is owing to the falubrify and elaflicity of the air, thus in fice cir- culation, and totally unconfined, but cer- tain it is, that I never found myfe)f de- jected, indifpofed, or low-fpirited in the morning, after paffing the night in this manner. I arofe in the morning as gay and chearful as a lark, and fet out at the dawn of day to afcend the mountain, with my mind filled with the moft agree- able expectations of the vaft pleafure I Ihould enjoy from the amazingly great extent of the perfpedive from the fum- mit, which is reckoned equal, if not fu- perior to any, even the higheft and moft commanding inland fituation in the world, at a diftance from the fea. As we approached the fummit we found the journey exceedingly trouble- fome, the afcent becoming more ai^d more •» i ii % \ ^^! !f !: ,11 ^1 I' if ^riiii in I |i {If [■I { ! rip I' ! i !'■ . y I it J: 1! I '!!■ '' m U 'ii. r«[< U m ■ M-,( ■ i ;■ ! . J- '4 3^4 yl Tour iji thi more perpendicular, until at length We were obliged to alight from oisr horfes, and lead them after us. Even this we found the greatefl diffi- cuhy in performing, and we (hould not have attempted it had there been any place, where we could have left our horfes whh the leaft certain profpeft, or indeed probability of being able to find them again wnen we returned. The height of the Wart Mountain may be about fix or eight miles; but the extreme fteepnefs thereof towards the fummit re- tards the progrefs of a traveller fo very much, that it is abfolutely a fevere day's journey to vifit the higheft part and re- turn, making but a very fhort ftay to enjoy the beauties of the almoft un- bounded and wonderful perfpedive. After many halts we reached the fum- mit of the mountain about eleven o'clock, and were then amply rewarded for the great perils and fatigue we had undergone to attain it. ■ ' Lan- ■I -v. Lan- Vnited States of A?Jierica» 3 d Language fails in attempting to de- fcribe this mod aftoniflilng and almoffc Unbounded perfpedtive. The mind was filled with a reverential 2kwe, but at the fame time the ideas, and I had almoft faid the very foul was fenil^- bly enlarged* The reflexion oh our own littlenefs did not diminilh our intelledual faculties nor confequence ; and the mind would boldly foar over the vaft extent of the earth and water around, and even above the globe itfelf, to contemplate on, and admire the amazing works of the great Creator of all. In fhort, th6 ftrOrtgj mighty, pointed, and extended fenfations of the mind, at this aftoniihing period are far beyond the power of human language to defcribe, or convey any idea of. ,j.,, ; On the eaft you could perceive the deep and broken chafms where the ri- vers Dan, Mayho, Smith's, Bannifter's, and Stanton direi^ their courfes ; fome VoL.L X ,.:^- raging f ! "■i . I'i! 'if! 3 li ■ i ' ■ . -A I- Us III : 1' li Ml \i .■M ; ,.'. ^ r ^ ■!' f^ 306 yi Tour in the raging in vafl: torrents, and fome gliding in lilent gentle meanders. On the north you fee the Black "Water, . a branch of the Stanton ; and the break in the mountains where the Fluvannah, a vail branch of the James, pafs through in a north-eaft diredion. ;- On the north-weft you will obferve with great aftoniflimcnt and pleafure, the tremendous and abrupt break in the Alegany Mountains, through which the mighty waters of the New River, and the Great Kanhawah pafs, the latter dired- ing its courfe northward, a diftance no lefs than two hundred miles from its fource,, where the New River meets the Green* Briar river which comes from the north- eaft, a diftance alfo of an hundred and fifty ihiles. After the confluence, being then named the Great Kanhawah, it proceeds weft- ward inclining to the north, until it falls into the mighty river Ohio, after a courfe of more than two^ hundred miles from thejunOion. ^'^ ^ ''^"^ • 9 Cn XJfiited States of America, 307 On the weft ycni can very plainly dif- tovcr the three forks or branches of the Holfton, where they break through the Great Alegany Mountains, forhxing ftHk- ing and awful chafms. And ftill beyond them you may ob- ferve Clinch's River, or Pelifippi, thait is almoft equal to all the three branches of the Holfton, with which it unites, after a courfe of three hundred and fifty or four hundred miles : the length of the courfe of the Holfton being alfo above four hundred miles before they unite and form the mighty river Ho- gohegee or Cherokee^ which afterwards flows a courfe of two hundred and fifty miles in extent before it falls into the Ohio, to which it is at leaft equal, in the vaft quantity of water it contains, &s well as the fertility of the foil on itsi banks, and far fuperior to it in the excel- lence of the climate it pafles through. On the fouth you can fee the Dari, the Catawba, the Yadkin, and the Haw, breaking through the mighty mountains X 2 that ■ I, •' "1 • '"I If 1. j f I I 4i' i ■: i L* >• t 1 !•: i'-., u 'Ml'' 308 ^'7 T(>//r /// ibe that appear in confufcd heaps, and piled on each other in ahnoll every dircdtion. Throughout the whole of this amaz- ing and moft extenfive perfpedtive, there is not the Icaft feature or trace of art or improvement to be difcovcred. All are the genuine efFedls of nature alone, and laid down on her moil ex- tende.d and grandefl fcale. ; . Contemplating thereon fills the eye, engroQTes the mind> and enlarges the foul. It totally abforbs the fcnfes, over- whelms all the faculties, expands even the granded ideas beyond all conception, and occafions you almoil to forget that you are a human creature. ^ . ^ f' ,1; r;! ) ,• I J : ^ J; •^f s: y. ':iiyi CHAP. y..j Vmtcd States ofA,„.r!,a, CHAP. XL. 309 J Remained on the fu«m,of.hi3„,o„„. . ^^ ^^'"oft as much furprifed .f tX. "^attention and difre^ard ofi back x;irr.^ 1' ""'^^gafU ot the youn/r 1;™ -'"''" »- «he beauties and gran! tieur of the perfpedHve ao r »„ u -""thee„jo,.'e„to;'it^;r^^.tn :::f--'-^o„eofth;r;ie;5t «o«„ta.„ and was abfent fron, n,e above ^n hour ;.n that tinae I heard the report a fine wdd turkey which he had ihot :efsn"^'"^'°"^-"''--ord?r,o djfs^ for fupper where we ftouid halt at We defcended the mountain on the north-weft f.de, and ftaid all „i„ht at 7 to'der of a beautiful f.,„ S^;/; •^ nica- i li !(i f' ' w hV-\ H M h.i\i Yi : 1. ■ '4 ■ 4 ;• ,' t*r^ v.l i III ■: i [I !:i '( I ■ ■ ■■); i ; li^r l-iw 310 A ^our in the meadow, a little way from the bafe of thq mountain, having turned our horfcs out as ufual, kindled a fire, roafted our turkey^ and made a delicious repall upon it. What remained we faved for the riext (day's provifion. We fet out on our journey on the fp}^ lowing morning, and fleered our courfe as pearly weft-north-wefl as the mountains would permit us, intending to crofs the great Blue ridge, or South mounjtain, through a gap that is only ufed by the hunters, \yhich is about twenty miles fouth-wefl of that which the grfiat trading path goes over. By this way we propofed to fall on the head waters of Little River, which run§ into the New River jufl above thecrofling place, and thereby fave a diftance of more fhan twenty-five miles travelling. In this attempt we were fortunate pnough to fucceed, after a mofl fatiguing ^ay'$ journey of forty miles at leaft, and after croffing a number of large flream§ of watpr. We i'f mate and Icam^ We United States cf America* 3 1 1 We halted for the night on the fide of a large rivulet, which we conjedtured to be either Little River itfelf, or fome of the waters of it, having crofled the great Blue ridge at a mod difagreeable and dangeroi& gap in the afternoon. > Here we killed another wild turkey, and drefled it for fupper as before ; indeed they were fo very numerous that we could have eafily fubfifted a company of men upon them, and might kill almoft any number we pleafed. Next morning weYet out early, and tra- velled down the north fide of the rivulet, which we found to be Little River, until we arrived at New River, and at laft came to the ford. The New River is broad, deep and rapid, frequently impaffable, and always dan- gerous. However we crofled it in fafety, though with great difficulty, and hazard of being carried down with the ftream, and we looked out for a convenient fpot on the X4 weft 1 t 1 ' ■; *■; l!i !i r- w I ii: 1 i )■ 3n A Tour m the h^ it' 'I '\' m :?fl weft fide, where we now were, to remain on for the night- This we foynd neceffary to do, both becaufe our horfes were greatly fatigued in proffipg the river, and alfo to dry our cloaths which had all been foaked in the water; although we had not travelled more than twenty-five or thirty mijes during this day. The low ground pii the New River is narrow, but exceedingly rich and fertile ; the high land is alfo very fine in many places, but exceflively broken, rocky, and mountainous. The timber on the high land is very large and lofty, and that oil the low ground is almoft equal to the prodigious heavy trees on the Roanoak, already defcribed. The New River, which is only the upper part of the great Kanhawah, not being navigable, nqr indepd the Kanhawah itfelf, the extreme roughnefs of tjie coun- try, £^nd difficulty of accefs to it, the roads or rather paths being npt only almoft in^' paljable, but tot?illy impoffible ever to be - ' jrendered United States of America. 313 rendered even tolerable, by any human efforts, will not only greatly retard tbe lettlement of this country, but will always reduce the price and value of the land, be it ever fo rich and fertile. In the morning, our horfes and our- felves being very much refrefhed, we fet out again on our journey; and after tra- velling ten or twelve miles, crofled a pretty Jarge water- courfe named Peak's Creek.; and foon afterwards a large branch of Reedy Creek. In the afternoon we crofled another great ridge of the Alegany mountains at ^ gap, and in the evening came to the waters of the middle fork of the Holfton, where we halted for the night ; having travelled this day near fifty miles, and over a vaft quantity of excellent land. Next morning we purfued our journey, and travelled down the fide of the middle fork of the Holfton, which we crofled no Jefs than three times this day ; and at night came to Stahlmaker's, where a few neople, indeed all the inhabitants, had alfo ereded I i. li • I i( Ml Jij 3^4 A Tour in tie r! :&i it :-i^ ♦*«v eroded a kind of a wretched flockade fort for protedion againfl: the Indians ; but they had all left it a few days before our arrival, and returned to their refpedive homes. * ■ . * - Here we remained for two days at the old Dutchman's houfe for reft and re- frclhment for ourfelves and our horfes, which we had really very much need of, and alfo to make enquiry ocncerning our future route. The land on the Holfton is certainly excellent, and fertile in the higheft degree ; the climate alfo is delightful. But the value of eftates here cannot be confiderable for many years, perhaps cen- turies to come, for the fame reafons that have been mentioned to afFed t! :)fe on the New River, Here we gained intelligence of a nearer way to Kentucky than that commonly made ufe of, which had very lately been difcovered, viz. by crofling Clinche's Ri- ver about fixty miles froni Stahlmaker's, going over the great Ridge of the Alegany or h'f •;■: I United States of America, 3 1 5 fit Apalachian mountains, at a gap which had been ufed only by a few of the bed hunters, and falling down on the waters pf the Warrior's Branch, a, river that runs into Kentucky. With this route pretty exadly laid idown we fet out from the Dutchman's houfe on the third morning after our ar- rival, and after travelling over a vaft quan- tity of exceedingly ftrong rich land covered with lofty timber, we reached the banks pf the north branch of the Holfton, crofled the river, and put up for the night ; having gravelled that day more than thirty miles. The ford of this branch of the Holfton is, if pofTible, worfe than any we have hitherto met with, and is indeed ex- tremely dangerous. But we were fo familiarized to danger and fatigue, as to regard any thing of that pature but little. On the next morning we fet out on pur journey by the route which we had been direded to purfue, and at noon ar- jrived at the fummit of a vaft chain of moun- k 1^ ■I 1^1 ■!H:^^' '■^h ■I ' I Ml if tin % J 1' m V Is nf o B '• ?f li ii fi 316 A Tour in the >■ i\ ' 'tt .,f' :»! (Mi. mountains which feparate the north branch of the Holfton from Clinche's River. Hfere I had the pleafure of enjoying an extenfive, wild, and romantic view, parti- cularly that ftupenduous ridge of the Ale-^ gany, or Apalachian mountains, which is the chief and moft lofty of the whole. It was rendered the more interefting to me by refleding that I mud crofs it on my journey, our route being diredly over it ; and the fiimmit of this vaft chain was at the leafl: fixty miles from the ridge whereon we then flood. We made no unnecefTary delay how- ever on this commanding fpot, but de- fcended the mountain, and purfued our route with all the expedition we could ; and we arrived on the banks of Clinche's River late in the evening, fo that we could not venture to crofs the ford that night. This circumftance was a very great inconvenience to us, becaufe we always got our cloaths wet in pafling thefe great anu »pid torrents of water, which fitua- tior »o particularly difagreeable in the moin- m. ,' i treat rays ^reat Itua- the United States of America. 3 1 7 morning, becaufe we muft either delay our time by making fires to dry them, or travel with them all wet upon us, which is the moft unpleafant of the two, as well as being prejudicial to health. Thefe vaft ridge* of mountains which we crofled renderea this day's journey extremely fevere and fatiguing both for ourfelves and our horfes, although we did not travel more than about thirty miles. In the morning we undertook the ha- zardous talk of fording Clinche's River, and accomplifhed it after feveral plunges, as ufual, over our heads ; neither did we halt to dry our cloaths until noon, when we refled at the fide of a favannah, fpread all our wet cloaths on the grafs to dry in the fun, which was then intenfely hot, turned our horfes out to graze, and after finifliing a hearty meal, lay ourfelves down to fleep. Here we remained for two hours, and then arofe exceedingly refreflaed, and pur- fued our journey. On ffl fJlli* li f\ li •'Wm. R 1' SI v\ III \ a - f 1 1 ^ ! .f,, >! m I! :'- f'l! 318 ji Tour in the On the evening we had reached half way up the ftupendous weftermoft ridge of the Alegany mountains, the laft, great- eft, aud loftieft of the whole. Here we remained all night, concluding to attempt the fteepeft and moil difficult afcent in the morning, when our horfes were refrefhed and ftrong, and ourfelves alfo'lefs fatigued; for we alwav alighted and led our horfes up thefe prodigious ileep, and perilous afcents* ""■■'T.'f' , ' i ^ / '. ■ . 'I -"i L -:::ll-Ui\i)'j-j.: -J. : ■ ' > r- ; , ;,;; ■,;'. -;||;% '1^-,-,^ J^H n ^C ': ■ •/ '':■'.. .■:,■:: ,.t^j :.{.;; v-.J ;i; baM'i: ',V.' 1': Vli, ^ ■ y : » ■:... ■ .:;. . 1:. . v 'l^'^f ';i. »■]' '>'- . . ',' - , .', ..-..;■' '^ ... . : 'A;'::'' .uh: •:;-' : 1 ' 'i. t : \- v] V*- ■ ' ' ; ■■ i"i ;''r l^'MW: ' , . ?.,"*; . - . < .4 S r •- ' -■ .-.; ■ '. ■_' ■ , '.. i .- .■" - :l. , . ■-■■■' - ./;UUt » t CHAP. |!' !. ! ' 1111 ! United States of America, 3 1 9 .' if CHAP. XLL i''> A?. Crofs the vajl Alegany Mountains. Fait upon the ff'atm rior*s Branch, Crofs the Oujiotto Mountains. Im- penetrable Thickets of Laurel. River of Kentucky. Airivi at the famed new Settlement on Kentucky, WE purfued our journey up the mountain next morning, but the fun was feveral hours high before we could poflibly reach the fummit> notwith- ftauding we made all imaginable difpatch. This ridge of the Alegany or Apala- chian mountain^ is indeed of a moft ftupendous and aflonifhing height, and commands a profp« ■ •" : *-'^- ■•; ■' I took a retrofpeditive view, with fatis- fa<5tion and pleafure, of the vaft chain of mountains beyond Clinche's River, which I had crofFed : and I koked forward, with interefting anxiety and eagernefs, towards the Oufiotto great ridge of mountains, which I had ft ill to pafs over, and were at leaft fifty or fixty miles diflant before me. ■'( v- V ~ ■ The •5 f h M! % \ 11 ii' 1 I I M II ! i:;'! 11 H '111 h en- JJmtcd Stales of America^ 323 I enjoyed infinite delight in viev/ing the beauties of the perfpedive here for a con- fiderable time, and at hill left it with equal pleafure, eager to penetrate into that beau- tiful country, which 1 had beheld with fuch delicious gratifica ion at a dirtancc. I defcendcd the Ouafiotto mountains, and in a fhort time fell iiito th great War path, which has been ufed by the Irdians time out of mind. This afforded me very great faiisfa£lion, for the road was now much better than any I had travelled in ever fnice 1 had firft entered the mountains, and thereby en- abled me to gain greater dillahces in each day's journey. But although we had now left the moun^ tains, and although biiore when I beheld all this country to the weftward of them it appeared as a beautiful level extended far beyond the view, and all the horizon was as ftraight and even as a line, or as the ocean itfelf, yet now we had defcended intp it we found it extremely broken, with abundance of rocks, and thickly inter- fered with water-courfes. Y 2 How- •', :. h ti 'i i*t A ': ;' i;i.ii: I i i I !i ;h -^ Tour in the .if ,'1. ; •■ However nothing could be more plea- fant than the pure and limpid ftreams, that either glided along in fweet and filent meanders ; or tumbled and daflied from rock to rock, juft firfficiently to give plea- fure without an alloy of fear or pain, as pellucid and tranfj.jarent as cryftal. I obferved that almoft all the rocks, not only here, but every where between the mountains,confiftedof a blackifh grey lime ilone ; and where that did not prevail, the earth, rocks and every loofe ftonc appeared to be (Ironglyand richly impregnated with iron ore, which certainly abounds through- out this inland part of America. We flept that night on the banks of a creek, that runs into the Warrior's branch, at the diftance of about a mile from the river itfelf, as we difcovered in the morn- ing when we went to look for our horfes to proceed on our journey. The Warrior's branch is a confiderable river, and after its confluence with two more rivers, neither of which is fo large as itfelf, forms the Kentucky which it indeed a very pa as wh Jen the of hui Smi I I , not the lime I, the eared . with 3Ugh- of a ranch, the tnorn- horfes Icrable Ith two large aft indeed a very United States of America. 325 a very fine river, wide, deep, and with a very gentle current gliding along almoft imperceptibly. The whole length of the Kentucky, in- cluding its meanders, from the fource of the Warrior's branch in the Alegany mountains, to the confluence of the Ken- tucky with the Ohio, is certainly between four and five hundred miles, containing a body of land on each fide, that cannot be furpaflfed, and fcarcely equalled by any in the univerfe, for fertility of foil, abundance of game, excellence of climate, and every other beauty and advantage imaginable, excepting the difficulty of accefs to it. In five more eafy days journeys, the particulars of which are not worth relating, as being not materially different from what has been already mentioned, we at length arrived at the famed fettlement near the mouth of Kentucky, on the eighth day qf June, after having travelled at leafl: four hundred and ninety miles, from the fort on Smith's River, to thisplace, in nineteen days. Y3 CHAP. ';i < a. 3^6 A I'oiir in the '\r\ !■: CHAP. XLir. ^be famed Seitlemcnt of Kentucky . Air. Hendcrfon n9 military Alan. Injudicious Forts. A fine com-' manding Situation. PVant of Subordination in Ame- rica, Hardy Race, but illibcruL Elephants Bones on the Ohio, \aSi f :■! f-JM :i ' \ r \ I Was foon d'redled to the houfe of Mr. Henderlbn, where I found a mod bofpitable and kind reception. "• ' We walked over his plantation, which was really a very fine one ;. and being furnilhed with fre(h horfes we rode round feveral of the improvements in the neighbourhood. He recolleded me perfedly, but ap-. peared very much furprifed at the hazards, as well as the fatigues I had encountered to pay him and his fettlement this vifit, at this critical time, which it feems had been apprehended by every one to be particularly dangerous. All the inhabitants of this fettlenfient li^4 ?^lfo prepared for an Indian war. mt( att£ Jat( thei leai I:: J ap- irds, ered ifit, had be Lent war, lying United States of America, 327 liaving ereded three ftockaded forls, into which they had thrown themfelves, their wives, and famiHes ; but had remained only a very fhort time within them, and had left them and returned to their refpedive habitations not more than a- bout a week or ten days before my arri- val, which totally diffipated all their re- maining apprehenfions of danger or dif- truft. Almoft every houfe in the whole fet- tlement was built of logs, which are proof againft fmall arms, but being co- vered as well as entirely conftruded of wood, nothfng would be more eafy for an enemy than to fet them on fire, which prevents any idea of defence againft fuch numbers as might be able to approach dole to them. - ^ - i .; . . The three ftockaded forts alfo, though intended to cover the country againft the attacks of the Indians, were neither calcu- lated for that purpofe, nor indeed were they tenable againft an enemy of the leaft military knowledge, whoie power Y4 or )\i W : l^' ill \H >•■ 'M ! Iff , I '!.;: 1 :: ^ 1.; If! i i 11 ' • % f;;t »l I I i 5 ^1 I i. ii El t, . ■ V ■ ^ ■ n:\ I III: ::f i 'iU rJI ■^ iH' Pii 328 yf Tour in the / or f( r:e might enable them to command the open country; for neither of the forts either communicated with, nor fup- ported the other, at lead what they in- tended as means of communication and fupport defeated the very purpofe they expeded it to promote. ,. , The impropriety and total unfitnefs of thefe forts as places of defence 1 foon convinced Mr. Henderfon of, as well as the reft of the principal inhabitants, and pointed out a commanding fpot of ground to ere£l a fortification on, if ever they fhould again have fuch an occafion ; which was indeed abfolutely neceffary, in their fituation, for every reafon. It was a peninfula, containing above an hundred acres of rich low land, fur- rounded with the river Kentucky, and a large creek, on three fides, and on the neck of the peninfula, or rather juft within it, there was a remarkably high and fteep hill, which appeared to be com- pofed of a folid rock very (lightly covered with foil, but abuoilantly with loofe ftones. Juft hi th Uxs "^M m^ r Ibove fur- and in the juft high com- •vered ;ones. Jwft United States of America, 2^9 Juft before the neck of the pcninfula, in a fmall circle round the bottom of the hill, there was a large morafs or fwamp, broad, deep and miry, which was co- vered and overflowed with water, after heavy rains, as well as during the pe- riodical floods of the Kentucky. In ihort nature feemed to have formed this commanding eminence for a moft delightful feat, as well as for the purpofe of defence ; and it required but very little afliftance of art to render it ex - tremely ftrong. Mr. Henderfon was beyond all doubt a man of a vaft and enterprifing genius ; he might be an excellent judge, as well as a great legiflator ; but he was cer- tainly not at all calculated for arms, be- ing void of any talents that way, and totally deficient even of a military eyc^ judgment, or difpofition. I have obferved that throughout all the back country, indeed I had almoft fald throughout all America, there feems to be ii )■: it ^ I '^.n v'ii pi! m 1 1'^ 'I I! i i 9,1 S I, lit 'I '' ■' -'i 1^ (':■.,!„ IK-' !^ : ! ^K-4 ■■'■ in jliKl ^ 30 -« Magi- fetti thef ""sHfTT' or :tn, nt, ns, it. md I the his tgl- tJnited States of America, 331 Magiftrates were chofen by the inhabi- tants, but with his approbation ; and fuch difputes as could not be decided by one or two magiftrates were determined by fome- thing Hke a jury, whofe decifions were alfo regulated, and indeed in a great meafure directed likewife by Mr. Hen- derfon himfelf. Although the inhabitants are in reality a rude, barbarous and unpoliftied fet of men, yet you will frequently find plea- fure in their converfation ; their ideas are bold and fpirited, but their fentiments are- not liberal. However, they are certainly a fenfible, enterprifing, hardy, unpoliflied race, yet open, free and hofpitable. - ' ' Pufillanimoufnefs, cowardice and mean fpirit appear not there; hitherto they have not reached fo far, and as yet are generally confined on the c^ift of the mountains. In our rides through, and around this fettlement we vifited the confluence of the Kentucky with the Ohio, and ftrolled for i^i ' i jf V: .Si! 332 A ^our in the J! ,1 f i'i V: WP^ id ?' for many miles on the banks of the lad mentioned river alfo. Near the confluence is the place on the banks of the Ohio where the fkele- tons of nine elephants, as they are called, though many fay erroneoufly, were dif- covered; which has given rife to fuch multitudes of conjedures among the naturalifts and philofophers, without one of them being able to account for this very fingular and extraordinary circum- ftance in a manner reconcilable to com- mon fenfe and reafon. ' For there certainly is none of the fpe- cies (of elephants) now in the whole continent of North and South America. It has been lately denied that they are the bones of elephants ; and they are afferted to be the bones of fome other very large animal, of which like-* wife at prefent none of the fpecies is to be found. . , ,:,,,.,.. I would not venture to pronounce upon my weak judgment^ whether they are the bones of elephants or not, I mean thofc ice ley leaa lofe United States of Amet tea, 333 thofe few that I faw there, however I am very certain that they are much larger than belong to any other quadruped in the world, that J ever faw or heard of. But to what fpecies they did belong, or in what manner they came there, is more than I can undertake to afcertain, or even to guefs at. CHAP. Ml' i ii'i^ ill li *i;!; ■n i i ,1 t! I ■i:- I i! T\ 334- A Tcur in the l! ;;;■ ! ii !;;■*! ,!'• ''mh S'i.rl r^'ir ir CHAP. XLIir. 7 he Rivers Kentucky arid Ohio, fVoods and hulofurer. Came. Wild Bcajh and FIJI). A general Account ef the Indians. Their Chara'^er. Dlfpojitlons and Kttmhers. THE breadth of the Kentucky at the ■ confluence is between three and four hundred yards ; and that of the Ohio between eight hundred and nine hundred vards. The low ground on both rivers is ex- cellent ; on the Ohio it is about a mile wide ; on the Kentucky about half as much. The high land alfo between the rivers is exceedingly rich, and of a reddifh brown colour, with large lofty ftraight timber. The foil of the low grounds is a very dark brown, almoll a black. The woods confift of walnut, poplar yellow and white, red-bud, hiccory, fafla- fras, wild cherry, oaks of many different kinds, fuch as red oak, Spanifh oak, white- oak, mn [ar fa- int Ite- Vnlicd St at a of Ameridf* 335 oak, black oak, fcrubhy oak or black- jacks, chcfnut-oak, willow- oak, and live- oak, maple, black gum, fvveet gum, fyca- more, horn-beam, dog-wood, pine, chef- nut, beech, hoiry, maple, cedar, and many other kinds peculiar to the country, all of an aftonifliing fize, efpecially in the low grounds, many trees being twelve and fifteen feet diameter in the trunk. Thefe are ufeful in America for many purpofes ; for houfes, which are almoft all conftruded, and even covered entirely with wood ; as alfo for fences and inclo- fures, thefe being all compofed of what is called there fence rails^ which are made out f£ trees cut or fawcd into lengths of eleven or twelve feet, which again are mauled or fplit into rails from four to fix inches thick. When the inclofure is formed, every one croffing the other obliquely at each end, in regular fucceffion and erciflion, thefe rails are laid zig-zag upon each other for ten or eleven rails in height, then flakes are put againft each corner double acrofs each other, with the lower end funk a litde into the earth, St and 1 .1 r I' Hi' i.l; ! , ■>.* ! '.'■,: 71 h.i. ii. .*i' ;i I ; ,W I' j !' i' 336 A ^i'Jur in the and above thcfe (lakes, one, and fometimes two more rails are laid, which lock up the whole, and keep it (leady and firm. Thcfe inclofures are generally feven, eight and nine feet high,and are very ftrong, as well as convenient, as they can be re- moved at any time to any other place where they may become more neceffary. Timber alfo ferves for fuel, as no other is made ufe of, all over America. The Ohio here has two banks on each fide ; when the river is low, the waters are confined within the lowed banks ; at this time the batteaux come up the flream, which is then fmooth and gentle. But when the periodical Hoods hagpen, which are always twice a year, the river is then fwelled to the higheft part, of the upper banks, and runs with much greater rapidity and force, batteaux and vefTels of all kinds then defcend with the ilream, and frequently attain the diflance of an hundred miles a day. At fuch times, fhips of fmall burtheiv might go down from Pittfburg to New Orleans, I 'I. 'U United States of J,ncrica. ^ Orleans &c. i„ u.e g.oatcft faf,,„ ,. ' being then fcldom lefs fi.,„ / ^' "^ feet water. '" 'wenty-five orIe:r:!Jri';t'r^"^^^'''- '■"'e iiable to S;;e^'°^^ '''«' '^^^ they are eafily caught '"<= ^>^'' ^nJ Game of all. VX.A, ;, ,„„ ^^ Ijen^ ; a „3„ ^3y j^.„ ^^ ^ ng y «™a.nofWtr:„7;:-;:tr djce and public lofs of fh, ^ ^ large. * "''' community at a JftV "''T "^^'^ '^^^^ ^"'I fat.' are ' tW ^^""^ ""'"''^^' '"°'"^'""es five tnoufand in a florlr „f l- i kill iuft ' '*'"'='' * »"*« «ay i k'lljuftasmanyashepleafea. ^' Vot, I. y * Eltj 'I ' ■I* 1^ 38 A 'Tour in the m^m-: miii'r^ .\\. n' :'' Elks are alio very plenty, as well as ra^ cooPxS, oppoflums, foxes and wolves. All thefe 2l:c found in the lofty woods, while in the favannahs or meadows buffaloes abound. And on the rivers multitudes of almoft every kind of water fowl. There was another animal that parti- cularly engaged my attention, it being one of the fame fpecies that formerly I jufl had a glimpfe of among the rocks at the falls of James River, when it ftruck me with the ftrange idea of its refembling a fiddle with feet. Thefe animals are called here Tarapem^ and are both of the land and water kinds. They are all however of the fpecies of the turtle. One kind of them bites very fiercely when incenfed, and keeps his hold fo te- nacioufly that he will fuffer decapitation before he quits it; thefe are called Sjiap- ping Turtles : but every fpecies of thefe animals is fo generally and perfectly known as to need no particular defcrip- tion here. Some -A II )ome United States of America » 339 Some of them however are extremely beautiful, and are adorned with all the elegance of the brighteft colouring,and the moft fanciful engravings, or lines in regu- lar and exa£t uniformity : this kind is per- fectly inofFenfive and harmlefs, nor are they larger than two or three pounds weight. Thefe animals will live, it is faid, for feveral hundred years. [See chap, vli, pages 51 and 52.] During a ftay of fix weeks, I made many excurfions in the country around, and fometimes went very confiderable di- ftances,foas to take feveral days in going and returning ; and they were chiefly by water, on the Ohio, and its branches. Finding every thing in tranquillity, and the Indians perfedly quiet and friendly, I accompanied a Mr. Mac Gowaa to one of the Shawnefe towns, and another time to one of the nearefl towns of the Miniamis or Tweetwees. Both thefe excuriions v/ere by water; and I found that there was fcarcely any variety in the manner of living and cufloms 1 1 r: 1 1 'Zz '^1 II '^ i M-i III) I," ii ■ I : :i.: n * '.I •" V; \id0'' • I -fiJi r 340 A Tour in the cufloms of the different Indian nations or tribes ; for feeing one nation will enable a perfon to form a very juft and exai^ judgment of all the reft. So that the defcription already given, of the Catawba Towns, reduced and enervated as they are, is an exa£t repre- fentation of the Shawnefe, Miniamis, &c. as well as every other nation of thefe kind' of Indians. [See chap. xxv. page 195.] However fome farther general obferva- tions on the different tribes and nations of Indians in North America may not be unacceptable here ; but it is rather a difficult talk for me to give the proper and diftind: account of every different nation, and their refpedlive charadlers, &c. fiiendl) or otherwife, (their general character and difpofitions, as I have juft re- marked, being pretty much the fame), be- ing not only unacquainted with their language, but having never been longer than a few days together in their towns myfelf. So •I irT'',' So Umted States of America^ 341 So what I relate miift confeqiiently be chiefly"/ from the information of others; however it is from fuch authority as I judge may be depended upon. The general charader of the Indians is, that they are crafty, fenfible, refolute, very fufpicious, and very vindidive. An Indian will travel on foot five hun- dred miles, through the woods, in night and darknefs, fecreting himfelf during the day to revenge an injury done to his relation, or to any one of his tribe. However in every thing, but their cruel and revengeful difpofition, J admire and refped the real character of the native imcivilized and uncorrupted Indians. Their fentimcnt; 1, with all the difad- vantages of pior iiicxpreOive language, and of what is v:c\riQ^ a Jot, dull, and de- ficient interpretuiion, contain and convey the moft elevatjd, noble, fpirlced, and juft ideas, delivered in that beautiful and ele- gant Timpliclty and allegorical figures of ^explam.tion, which add digu'ty and grace ^^ 3 to 11 |v; \ ■ 1 ■■ I I k ' ^ it t i i V mi a ■ 11 Ir ,i rt ^\ii V 342 ^ Tour in the to the fubjed, and are fo much admired in the Bible and facred fcriptures of the Chriftians, in the Jewifh Talmud, the Ma- hometan Alcoran, and in all the oriental writings. Their fenfual appetites however they have no great command of, cfpecially in- ebriation, which they are particularly ad- di£ted to. But the truth is, they are Corrupted by the whites ; for they copy after, and fall into oitr vices, thefe appearing in the moft confpicuous point of view -, and I am afraid that our external virtues are fo few, and even thofe fo difficult to be difco^ vered, that the poor Indians cannot dif- tinguifh any of them to follow after. They have alfo been fo treachcroufly and barbaroufly mailacred by the whites, and fo often deceived by them, that the memory thereof is carefully preferved, and handed down from father to fon, in order to keep the rifnig race fufliciently on their guard againft our future fnares and treacherous defigns. This BpWTv United States of America. 343 , This I look upon to be the true caufe of the great caution, and complete dif- fimulation the Indians are become fo perfedly mafters of. Indeed they have arrived at fo eminent a degree of duphcity, and difguifing their fentiments and intentions, that without the affiftance of the arts of writing, read- ing, or committing their thoughts and tranfa(flions to record, they far excel us at our own weapons of fubtilty, craft, and precaution. In (hort they are zealous fteady friends; but rigorous implacable enemies, until fatisfadion. or reparation be made them for the injury they think they have fuf- tained. However let their inclinations at this prefent time be either amicable or hoftile, they all are not now fufEciently powerful, either to contend againft the w^hites in arms, or to do them any other material injury. Whites who behave to them with up- rightneis and affability are greatly re« Z 4. fpc£led II iti- I; I ni B r: If . ' :':l: 344- j4 I'cur in the rpcdcd by them, and obtain an amazing iiiHuencc; over them. But they mufl: firft be fufficiently con- vinced of the integrity and difinterefted- neis of the perfon ; after which they are more at the command of fuch a man than of one of their own chiefs. Kings they have none, and the princi- pal men of their nation become fuch by their merit alone. Thau this there is no other precedence, or difference of rank among Indians. They enjoy the fweets of liberty and freedom in the truefl: fenfe, and cer- tainly are not guilty of the many ini- quitous and fcandalous vices that difgrace Chriflianity and Europeans. 7 heir numbers on this fide the MiiTif- fippi are confidcrable. From the Gulf of Mexico to the Lakes of Canada inclufivc, it is computed there riv.cj be about thirty- five thoufand warriors. Beyond the MifTiHippi they are much more numerous, and many people, that have -■ iX i'H m w if- he ed nd Lch ive United Stales of Americal 345 have travelled there, fay they are very open and hofpitable. The little intercourfe between them; in that diftant country, and Europeans, renders them lefs fufpicious, lefs fubtle and defigning, and not fo cruel and vin- dictive as thofe on the eallern fide of that extenfive river, whofe greater ex- perience, communication and tranfadlions with the w^hites produce thofe pernicious efFeds. A reproach more fevere upon us than on them. Here I miift beg leave to make one par- ticular obfervation; left, from v^hat has been faid, it fhould be thought that the In- dians have a particular diflike to Europeans more than to the whites born in America; but the very reverfe of this is the truth, for it is the v/hite natives of the country that the Indians have the greateft a\rer- fion to, and by v>7hom they have been fo often mofttreacheroufly and barbaroufly ufed. The white Americans alfo have the moll rancorous antipathy to the whole race pm-" 11 t?: ; i in if [1 } i ;» '■]' V\ ! 2^6 A Tour in the race of Indians ; and nothing is more common than to hear them talk of ex- tirpating them totally from the face of the earth, men, women, and children. The Indians indeed do not appear to entertain any diflike to the Britifli or Trench, I mean thofe that are natives of Europe; nor have the real Britifli or French any particular averfion to them, as the Britifli Americans have. 1 ■ t, CHAP. I United States of America. CHAP. XLIV. 347 ^I-ift 'f thi Names cf M ,he j;ff . r ,. "•ch Na,k„. °^ '""'■'""» <"■ fTaraors i„ T^HE names of the different T„^- follow : * to'icct, are as Names of the Nations. The Choaaws or Flat-' heads The Natches TheCherokees. behind South Car .• Tl- Catawba, between N^^ ''" South-Carolina . ™ ^"^ The Piantias, a wandering t"rih» " ^ ^o'^ fides of the Miffi^p"":- tstifr ^'"^^ ■•" - between tK« /-I i ^'^^ and " 6oo The Situation. t^„„.^^^_ On the Mo. ^^oo bile and xco 150 800 1 !'pi i' ;i la ' :ii:^i I I 348 y^ Tip/zr /« /he Names of the Nations. Situallon, Warriors. 4000 The Piankifliaws '\ 250 The Ouachtenons I On the Ouabache 400 The Kikapous J 300 The Shawnefe, on the Siotto - - 500 The Delawares, on the weft of the Ohio 300 The Miamie, on the Mifamis river -j fallirig into Lake Eric and the ["350 Miniamis J The upper Creeks, back of Georgia " The middle Creeks, behind Weft- Florida The lower Creeks, in Eaft-Florida TheCaouitas, on the eaftof the river Alibamous - - - - The Alibamous, on the weft of the Alibamous - - . - The Akanfaws, on the Akanfaw river falling into the Mifliflippi on the weft fide - - - - The Ajoues, north of the Miflburi The Paddoucas, weft of the Mifliflippi The white sPanis -» South of 2000 The freckled or pricked > the 700 600 2000 1000 500 Fanis Miflburi 2000 The rOO 100 )0O )0O :oo )00 'he United States of America. 349 Numcs of the Nations. Situation, Warriors. The Canfes -j South of 1 600 The Ol'ages V the 600 The Grandes Eaux JMiflburi 1000 TheMiflburi, upon the river Mi flburi 3000 The Sioux o^ '\e woods •% towards the 1800 The Sioux ui the mea- i heads oft he dows J MifTiffippi 2500 The Blancs, Barbus, or white Indians with beards - - - - icoo mi- A/r M -1 1 far north near the TheAffiniboils ( ,, r, r 1500 rru nu -a I lakesof the fame ^ The Chriltaneaux 1 'jooo •' name ^ The Ouifcanfins, on ja river of that name that falls into the Mifliflippi in the eaft fide - , . mm^ The Mafcoutens -^ roo The Sakis i South of Puans Bay 400 The Mechecouakis J I-'olle Avoine, orthe"j Wildcat Indians | Near Pucans Bay The Pucans J The Powtewatamis; near St. Jofeph's River, and Detroit - - 350 . The 250 yoo ..■\ '1 \. I.. I ',1 1 '. 1: ^! /'I 1^ I I ii i n lir 1', IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 1.1 m Bii §2.2 :^ L& 12.0 lijj MjiM WA t Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STtf IT WiBSTER,N.Y. USSO (716) S72-4903 •SJ \ <^ ^ i\ '4^ Wli 350 ^ Tour in the Names of the Nations, Situation. Warrioij, The Meffefagues, or River Indians, being wandering tribes on the Lakes Huron and Superior - - 2 coo The Ottahwas "1 Near the Lakes Supe- 900 The Chipwas j rior and Michigan 5000 The Wiandots, near Lake Erie - 300 The Six Nations, or as the French call them, the Iroquois, on the frontiers of New- York, &c. - - 1500 The Round-headed Indians, near the head of the Ottahwa River - 2500 The Algonquins, near the above 300 The Nipiffins, near the above alfo 400 The Chalas 1 c t t j- no ot. Laurence Indi- *^ ans, on the back of ^^ 700 ^, ., . , Nova-Scotia, &c. The Abenaquis J 3 5^ The Conawaghrunas, near the falls of St. Lewis - - - - 200 The Amaliftes The Michmacks Total amount 58,93^ . i This ■^ ', I 200 LIS United States of America, 3 5 1 This being the whole number of mca fit for bearing arms, from hence we may be enabled to form fome idea of the num- ber of all the Indian inhabitants, men, women and children, on the continent of North America; which calculation, however, I am ready to confefs can be but rather a vague conjecture. There being fifty-eight thoufand nine hundred and thirty warriors, it is computed that about one-third of the fame number more are old men unfit for bearing arms, which makes the number of males come to maturity amount to about eighty-eight thoufand five hundred and feventy ; and multiplied by fix will produce five hundred and thirty-one thoufand four hundred and twenty, which I confider as the whole number of fouls, viz. men, women and children, cf all the Indian nations that are come in any degree within our know- ledge throughout the continent of North America. It is a moft melancholy confideration to reflect, that thefe few are all that remain 6 ' of 1/: i i f if "^1 I 1 I •l 1 35^ A Tour in the of the many millions of natives, or ab- original inhabitants with which this vail continent was peopled when firft difco- vered by the Whites ; and that even thefe will foon be extind and totally annihi- lated) confidering the amazingly rapid depopulation they have hitherto experi- enced, fince that (to them) fatal period, or 9cra of the fird arrival of the whites in America. '■;ii;'f; CHAR United States of AmeHca, 353 CHAP. XLV. Ltave Kentucky. Sail down the Ohio- 1'he Fulls of the Ohio; Agreeable Companions. Enter the Alif- Jlffippii and proceed down that River. Alcet fome Chickcfawst Their fine Horfcs. /I gallant Nation. Attachedly a vafl Superiority of French and Indians. Defeat them. Their Origin, Their Caz'alry. P. ABOUT fix weeks after my ar- rival at Kentucky two gentlemea from Virginia, on a tour from thence to New Orleans, called to view the fettle- ment. They came from Pittfburg, by water, in a very fine batteau which they had purchafed, and intended to proceed in the fame manner down the Ohio and Mif- fiffippi, being furniflied with letters of recommendation to the Spanifli governor of New Orleans, &c. Having remained along with us at Mr. Henderfon's fome days, I difcovered them to be uncommonly fenfible intelli- VoL. I. A a gent R I I; f li}_ Jl if i il r; 1 1 ^ ! (. ' It i It It ., \i, ! (/i r^iij' !.; Ill , 354 ^ Jcftr in the gent perfons, poffefling an extraordinary Ihare of genius, fpirit and enterprize, and was not difficult to be perfuaded to accompany them in their batteau to New Orleans. For I promifed myfelf abundance of fatisfadion and gratification in this voyage down the Ohio and Mifliflippi. Befides I had been fo exceffively over- fatigued in my journey liere, over the mountains, that I abfolutely dreaded the thoughts of returning in the fame man- ner. For thefe reafons I embraced this offer with great pleafurc, and after returning Mr. Henderfon, and feveral other of the principal inhabitants of Kentucky, many thanks for their civility and hofpitable entertainment, I embarked on board Mr. Wood's and Mr. Lewis's batteau, along with my young favage whom I brought from tlie eaft fide of the Alegany Moun- tains. This young man, whofe name was Wil- liam Forlune,folicited memoft earneftlyfor per- - t .1 :o \v of ge er- the the ight lyfor per- Vnited States of America, 355 permiffion to attend me this voyage, which I very readily granted, having hitherto found him of great ufe to me in every refpedt^ and an excellent hunter and Woodfman. In both thefe offers I confidered my- felf extremely fortunate. Firfl in my at- tendant, whofe fidelity I had already ex- t>enenced ; and next in the company of thefe gentlfemen who appeared equally gra':ified by having fucceeded in perfuad* ing me to undertake the voyage, and in being able to furnifti me with very to- lerable accommodations. My prefent companions and fellow-tra- Vellers were two gentlemfen^the firft named James Wood, efq. who was member of the affembly of Virginia for the county of Fre- derick, was young, adive and vigorous, was frank, open and communicative in his difpo- fition, and pofTeflfed a degree of candour and liberality of fentiment, that rendered his ac- quaintance valuable in the higheft degree i the other was Charles Lewis, of Augufta county in Virginia, efq. fcarcely inferior to A a 2 Mr. 1 \ W \ N i ii; M^ li 35^ yf Tour in the Mr. Wood ill every ellimabic qualification and defert. They had tv/o Chickefaw Indians, and three white men in their batteau, and as they juft wanted one man more to com- plete their number, my fervant fupplied the place. However, although I now call this man my fervant, yet he himfelfnevcr would have fubmitted to fuch an appellation, although he moft readily performed every menial of- fice, and indeed any fervice I could defire ; yet fuch is the infolence, folly, and ridi- culous pride of thofe ignorant back- woods men, that they would conceive it an indelible difgrace and infamy to be ftyled fervants, even to his Majefty, not- withanding they will gladly perform the loweft and moft degrading fer vices for hire. At the dawn of day on the nineteenth of July we left the Kentucky, and had a very plcafant voyage down the Ohio and Mifliflippi, if one can give that appel- lation to fuch a one, where we flept every night tw ft nd as m- ied nan lave )UgH ilcf- fire ; rldi- ack- ve it be not- the for eenlh Ihad a Lo and Ippel- 1 every nigbt United States of America. 257 night on terra (irma, or at the (horc in our batteau. We paflcd by the mouth of a muhi- tude of fine rivers, and feme of vaft "magnitude, that empty thcmfelv:s into the Ohio and Mifliflippi. On our right were the migtty rivers Ouabache or St. Jerome's, and Buffaloe River, befides a great many inferior in fize, whofe names we could not difcover, that run into the Ohio before the con- fluence thereof with the Mifliffippi. On the left, the following rivers empty themfelveeintoitjviz. Rotten or Bear Creek, Reedy River, the prodigious river Che- rokee or Hogohegee, Muddy River, Deep Creek, belides many lefler ones. As we failed down the Miififllppi, on our right were the rivers La Sonde, Aux Prunes, Metehigamias Lake or River, the river St. Francis, the White River, the ri- ver Sotouis or Akanfas, Red River, Piake- mines River, befides a vaft number of others, fome of a prodigious extent, as ■ Aa3 well it i! 1 f i : 1. ... It 1^ 1 ^ jl; i i '"i" ' J 1 «'' f iii ( •'■i'i' N i^ ■ i '■ ! : i: lit 35 8 j4 Tour in the well as many inferior one6^ whoic namc(> we never heard. And on the left fide were the Ka(ki- r>ompa,the Chickefaw, Prudhoinine River, Maggotty River, or Margot River, Ba- youc River, Soto River, Yaflbus River, Tioux F iver. Petit Gouffre River, Little River, and the Ibbervjlle which fcarcely fieferves the name of a river, and i^ only known by bjsing the Eaftern bqundary of the Spaniards, forming the illand of New Orleans, whofe territory, from the Ibbervillc Soutl^vvard includes both banks of the MiiTiilippi ; beHdes a mul- titude of water-courfes, whofe very name^ we could not poifibly learn. The day after we left Kentucky we pafled the falls of the Ohio very fafely, by keeping w^ell over on the right o^ Borth-weftern fhore, for thefe falls are by no means dangerous; and after we had pafTed them we obferved the low grounds on each fide of the river widen yery confiderably, as weU as the river itfelf, until we entered the Mifliflippi, whcr ri* M-\ ! we [fcly, ^t or are we low ridcn 1 river United States rf America, 3 y) where the land is fo low that it is fubjcifl to frequent inundations. After we had got fome diftaifce down the Miffiffippi, the high land> and fome- times the mountains approached the river, (b as to render the low grounds on eacli fide very narrow, which however were luxuriantly rich and fertile, even beyond a poflibility of defer iption. There arp likewife iflands in many places, and fome of them almoft covered with reeds. As we defcended the ftrcam of the Mifliflippi we obferved feveral lakes, or as they are termed here Lagtmes^ fome- times on one fide, fometimes on the other fide of the river. Thefe lagunes generally had vafi: quan- tities of large reeds growing round the edges ; and within them there were thoufands of water fowl of every fpe- cies. Although there was no difficulty in killing multitudes of them, yet it was ajmoft impoffible to get them, becaufe of A a 4 the ^ ' ' B J 'T Hi ' 1 1 iil llil n \l V mh I 360 ji Tour in the the reeds, which rendered that part of the laguiic, where they were, ahnoft inac- jCefTible. Thefe laguncs were formed by the vaft body of water, that comes down in the annual periodical floods, forcing its way acrofs the necks of many different penin- lulas formed by the extreme crooked and meandering courfe of the MiffifTippi, and diverting the channel of the river itfelf, from its old diredion around the peninfula, to this new one acrofs the neck of it, by which means the place where the river formerly flowed becomes a large lake of Handing \yater, here de- nominated a lagune. One day while we were on fhore at \he mouth of the Yaflbus, a placid, beau- tiful, and noble river, a fmall hunting party of the Chickefaws came up to us, and at the requeft of our two Chickefaw Indians, as well as the others, we re- Kiained there two days along with them. The Chickefaws are a very brave and refpedable nation, not for their numbers, for at :au- iing us, Ifaw re- land for Vnited States of America. 361 for they arc few, but for their virtue, and unconquerable fpirit. They arc alfo remarkably handfomc, and what is very fingular, have a beau- tiful breed of horfes amongft them, which they carefully prefer ve unmixed. The ChickefawSjit is faid,and I make no doubt of the faiSt, came originally from South America, having travelled acrofs the continent for upwards of two thoufand miles, and brought thefe horfes along with them, which art: of the breed of that much admired kind called Spaniih gennets, haying long fince taken them from the Spaniards. There is no Indian nation on the con- tinent of North America near fo hand- fome as the Ghickefaws. The Hurons come next them in beauty. The Chickefaw nation have always been fteady friends and allies to Britain, and their fidelity was never fhaken, al- though the French have often attempted it, by promifes, threats, and the mod formidable attacks with a force confider- ably Iff I' B I 'If r I, \'l'{ i ^ ii^'i |i-. id ''-;;v »il 362 ^ Tour in the »bly more than four times the number of ail the warriors in the Chickefaw nation, either to detach them from the intereft of Great Britain or tp put them entirely pff. In the former war, while the French were in pofleffion of Canada, they dc-? tached about fix hundred and fifty regular troops, ^nd more than two thoufand five hundred Indians from Canada and lUi* nois, againfl: this fmall, but heroic com- munity, for the avowed purpofe, and with pofitive orders, of completing a total conqueft, and even extirpj^tion of the whole Chickefaw nation. They fet out on this expedition with all the fecrecy and confidence of fuccefs imaginable, at leafl in their own minds ; but they little confidcred what fort of men they were going to attack, and foon found, by dire experience, that no fupe- riority in numbers is equal to a deter- mined valour and innate heroifm ; for the whole detachment was totally de- teated, the French regulars being almofl to ■ I, .'r 1 ,ii5 > )n United Slates of America. 363 |:o a man cut off, and the Indians their allies faved only a fmall proportion of their number, by a precipitate flight, leaving behind them multitudes of HTvounded and (lain. This was the laft formidable attack made on the Chickefaw nation, either by the French, or the northern Indians; for there always has beeri^a rooted enmity between the northern and fourhern Indians, who have been almoft perpetually at war with each other, without any real, and indeed without any oftenfible caufe. But the Chickefaws have always been idiftinguifhed for their gallant adions, and feats of the highefl heroifm, which has rendered them, even individually, to be particularly refpedted throughout all the nations of North America. For which reafon Chickefaw guides are more fought after, and are much more fervice^^le than thofe of any other nation. For although their language is not commonly made ufe of in any nation but their I, ; ! i r 1: i J! h ! .1 I ly 1 i 1 ■ 1 ' ' I : J i ', ■ ,1 ' , '. *' ;■ mm V' ?■ ill I . <'■ • ilil 364 A Tour in the tlieir own, yet it is uiiderflood by all, and among Indians is confidered as the language of politenels and univcrfality. Another fingularity that feems to be peculiar to this nation is, their frequently going out to meet their enemies on horfc- back, wliich, with their very fine horfes that they take fuch delight in, renders them in fact a nation of cavalry. This i^ideed is the cafe with no other nation either in North or South America, unlefs we except the Patagonians, thofe men of vaft and uncommonly large flature, lately difcovered by admiral Byron, and the other circumnavigators, &c. on the coaft of Patagonia, nei\r thg ftreights of Magellan. «: ■ 1; ! lii 11 ivi 1 i::' CHAP. * ■ tH United States of America, 3'^ CHAP. XLVI. Leave Yajfous. Arrive at batches, Prcc^cd to Krjj Oilcans, French Inhabitants averjc to Spani/o Covcrmncfit, Lifurrcc^iion quelled. Earnejlly wtjh for British Liberty. Number of Families in, New Orleans and Loui/iana. /^N the third morning we let out from V_-/ ^aflbus River, on our voyage down the MifTiffippi, after taking an affec- tionate leave of our friendly, and as wc really found them, hofpitable Chickefaws. We met with nothing very material nor interefting until we arrived at the Natches, which we did on the 20th of Auguft* being juft thirty-two days from the time' we left Kentucky. Here we flaid three days, and in that time received many civilities and marks of kindnefs from Major Fields and Mr. L. Claiborne, who were fettled on very fine and valuable plantations, upon the banks of the Miffiffippi, having come there from Virginia, of which colony they were alfo ^ natives ; III ,! f : \ W I :!■■ ir;' rm 366 ^ tour in tke natives j arid we really found them to be very entertaining, fenfible, and enter- prifing men. From Natches we proceeded on our Voyage on the fourth morning, and arrived at New Orleans in four days, being on the twenty-feventh of AuguQ. Here we found almoft all the inhabitants tvcte French ; very few of them eten un- derftanding the Spaniih language ; and they entertained the moft rooted and im- pi cable averfion to the Spanifti nation and government, as well as a ftrong pre- diledlion for the Britifli. As a proof of this, although there is a penalty incurred, by proclamation of the Spanifli Governor, of four hundred or five hundred dollars, for even admitting a Bri-» tifli fubjcd into one of their houfes, unlefs they immediately make government ac- quainted with it, yet they make no fcrupld nor difficulty of receiving any Englifliman, and entertaining him in the moft generous and hofpitablc manner openly ; at the fame time taking care to enhance the efti- matiori United States of jlttierica. 367 mation of their kind reception, by making him acquainted with the rifque they run^ and the penahy they incur the forfeiture of thereby. This is the general practice in the ifland of New Orleans, at fome diftancefrom the town, which however being the feat of government, and being alfo occupied with a Spanifh garrifon, it would be impojffible for the French inhabitants to fulfil . fucH hofpitable intentions and purpofes therein with fafety. They were at this time extremely mor- tified, humbled and intimidated by a cir- cumilance that had occurred but a Ihort time, at lead but a few years before our arrival. Soon after the territory of New Or- leans had been ceded by France to Spain, the French inhabitants aflembled together, in a large body, on the thirtieth of October, one thoufand feven hundred and fixty- eight, determined to expel Don Antonio d'Uloa the Spanifli Governor, and all the other Spanifh officers ; accordingly on the fccond of November they fent them on 9 boaid V, .l!l sll ■! . !• !■:? •H i li\ I l> >. N t|, it i I J'l 368 ^ Tour in the board a large Spanifh fhip in the harbour, with orders to leave the ifland imme^' diatelv. Previoufly to the above exploit they confined M. Aubry, who was Command- ant while the place belonged to France. The occafion was, the Spaniards want- ing to introduce their commercial regula- tions, \^hich the inhabitants refufed to fubmit to, and declared they would be either French or Britifli fubjedts, but never would confent to be Spanifh. The Governor and the reft of the Spa- hifli OfRceirs failed for the Havannah, and left in the harbour a Spanifh frigate with the marines, not in a condition to put to fea, and two hoflages for payment of debts due to the French. Four of the principal inhabitants em- barked foon afterwards to lay a reprefenta- tion of their affairs before the Court of France, and folicit redrefs of their griev- ances. Things continued in this condition for fome time, but at lafl General Count O'Reiley, I or Int XJnited States of Amei'ica, 369 O'Reiley, a brave experienced officer of irifh defcent, (who claims the ifland of Jamaica in the Weft Indies, as lord pro- prietor when the Spaniards poflefled it,) tvas ordered there by the Court of Madrid, and landed at New Orleans, with three thoufand Spaniards, and three or four ihips of waf . The inhabitants then immediately fub- tnitted ; and General O'Reiley ordered thirty of the leading men in this affair to be executed, and confifcated the eftates ot about two hundred more. This fe verity reftrained their adions, but cannot command the will. At this time fo great is their defireto be under Britifh government, and fo general, fo hearty, fo rooted is their deteftation to that of Spain, that only a dozen or two of BritAns, of fpirit and enterprize, would be able to wrcft all that country from the Spaniards ; as the inhabitants are all French, excepting the garrifon which con- fifts only of a handful of lazy, proud, mi- ferable Spaniards, who defpife the French Vol, I. Bb fettlers I A II J V > % \ \ f K.' U'! ? 11 (■ Wi 1 1 lU P B7^ A Tour in the fettlers as cordially as they themfclves are hated by them in return. At this time there would be nothing wanting or neceflary but to eredt the iland- ard of Great Britain, and the French inhabitants would one and all fupport il; fo much dc ih^ wifti for Britifh liberty, and .to fuch a degree do they deteft th« arbitrary government of Spain. The number of families in the town and ifland of New Orleans, and on the weft fide of the Mifliffippi, may amount to twelve thoufand at leaft, all of whom are thus avcrfe to be governed by the Spaniards. rt t*' ! J(i?: :''W, i >r lit .11 I ■ f. 1 <. - CWAP. .i> ^ t. United States of America. 37 1 e d- ch it; )wn the aunt horn the rT A?. CHAP. XL VII. Dangerous Alligators, Vafl Fertility of the Soil* Spa* nijh Beard,!,, Wait on the Governor, Nenv Orleans, Great Dijlrejfes of jome Englijh and French impri* foncd by the Spaniards in Nnv Mexico. Vafi Flocks of Cattle and Horfes. Extenjive Savannahs. A good Prieji. Leave New Orleans. Arrive at Manchac. Coaji along the Gulf of Mexico. Mobile ^ Penfacola^ jfpalachicohf l^c, IN the river Miflllfipi, and on the banks, are many very fingular ap- pearances. In the river, and in the creeks, rivulets and water-courfes falling into it, efpecially near the mouth, are large dangerous ani** mala named alligators, from ten to eigh- teen feet and upwards in length ; they are a fpecies of the crocodile, and equally, if not more dangerous than thofe of the river Nile in Kgypt ; thefe alfo devouring men, oxen^ or whatever elfe they can get within their horrid jaws, in that crafty fubtle manner, fo often defcribed already in different authors. B b 2 Thefe Hi 'i-jj 11 I .1 ' 1^ i: A ; « I V , i It i (I r 1 m 11: i; 15 ' '-'fs 1 1 mi 37^ yl Tour in the Thefe render it dangerous to flcep In open battcaux on the Mifliffippi, and on this account travellers are obliged to He on fiiore every night, near to a large fire, which always prevents the approach of any beads of prey. On this river the foil is fo extremely rich, and fo luxuriantly fertile,, that reeds grow . even on the high land ; a cir- cumftance that I believe is not to be paralleled any where elfe in the univerfe. The grand culture and ilaple here being indigo, this amazing fertility of the foil not only produces larger crops thereof than are obtained from equal quantities of ground in any other land or country, but alfo en- hances the value of the quality of it, which is always greater according to the ^fuperior richnefs and depth of the foil., ^ . Another very fingular and linking ap- pearance is a kind of niofs, in! long aodl numerous filaments, here called> Sfamjh i>ifjr^i, which, hang in prodigious quan- tities) impending in hoary majefty^ from ^V ■j^.: d a United States of Amerh -a, 373 all the large branches of the lofty oaks, ibmetimes touching the very ground. Thefe convey a venerable idea of vaft antiquity, and ftrikc the mind with in awe, and a fenfation of reverential regard that can fcarcely be defcribed. This has alfo its ufes, being extremely ferviceable and convenient to make our beds when we fleep in the woods 5 and it is clean, foft, agreeable, and abundant. The town of New Orleans is fituatcd on the eaftern banks of the Mifliflippi, about ninety miles above Cape Laos or Mud-Cape, where that river falls into the gulf of Mexico. The banks of the river are fo perpen- dicular, and the water is fo deep, that a ftiip of any burthen may lay her broad- fide to the bank, to land and unload, and is moored by a cable failened to the trees on the fhore. The river is above a thoufand yards wide, and the current runs all down- wards, as the tide does not reach near the ^own \ indeed the tide is fcarcely perceived Bb3 at r ' i V, . ! \ I i: Ji|! n It !' .. 374 y^ Tour in the at all within the mouth of this aflonifhing river, whofe waters, efpecially during the periodical floods, may be didinguifhed in the gulf of Mexico for many leagues, fome fay above an hundred miles out at fea. The ftreets of New Orleans arc laid out in redangular directions, the houfes are generally only one (lory high, yet many of them pretty good, and they may amount in number to three or four hundred. The ifland of New Orleans is generally pretty good land, and all of it very low and Hat. It is about an hundred and eighty or ninety miles in length, but not more than five miles from navigable water at any place throughout the whole of it. On the very next day after our arrival at New Orleans, Mr. Wood, Mr. Lewis and I waited on the Spanifh Governor ; but being informed that he was engaged for that day, my companions declined fending him any of the letters of introduction and recommendation they were furnifhed with, Thefc jji \i I United States of America. 37 J Indeed thefe haughty Virginians were fo extremely incenfed at this refufal of admif- fion, that it was ^\ith the utmoll difliculty I could prevail upon them to confent to pay their perfonal refpedts to the Governor any more at all, or to fend or prefent their credentials ; efpecially as it did not appear to them, nor indeed to me, that he was really engaged at the time we received that meflage and apology of excufe from him, as we could plainly difcern him« through a window, obferving and making his remarks, as we judged, on us, while we were walking backwards and forwards in the piazza, in expectation of his anfwer ; walking in that manner being a kind of ex- ercife a Spaniard holds in great contempt. However we were ad m itted on the day fol- lowing, and were even honored by a very friendly reception ; though I muft confefs that there appeared to me a AifFnefs and formality, in his Excellency, that indicated a didrufl, and feemed to fay that he could have difpenfed with our vifit ; not that there was any thing perfonal meant to us, B b 4 for m- V.f' H ■H. ' .i-iU I--1 1 1 37« ^ Tcur in the for the frequent proofs of civility, iin4 (Bven generous attention, we received fron^ him afterwards, evinced the contrary. But we imputed it to that narrow, illi- beral, and jealous policy of the Spaniih government, by which they endeavour tQ preclude all other nations, not only fron^ any communication with, but even as inuph from the knowledge of all their American fettlements as pofFible. The reftridions of the Spanifli govern- jnent on commerce render the prices of all European goods here very much advanced, and they would adually be almoft intoler- able, if the inhabitants did not contrive to get many things underhandedly from the Englifli, French, and Dutch, by ipeans of an illicit trade. Indeed almoft all the flour that fupports New Orleans is imported from Philadel? phia, in veflels belonging to a commerciaj houfe there, viz. Meflrs. Willing and Mor- ris, who have obtained an exclufive privi- ledge, for that fole purpofe, from the King pf Spain. From 1 w- )ort$ idelr trci^l lor- ^ri vi- sing •rom United Stdles of America. 377 From this the Governor makes a per- quifite of twenty thoufand dollars annu- ally, as all the flour, being configped to the King of Spain, is paid for by the Go- vernor, who orders it to be diftributed to the inhabitants at the rate of a dollar a barrel, clear gain advanced on the price, after the dedudion of all cofts and charges. During the time I was at New Orleans, ^ gentleman from Maryland, who had fallen, by a very unfortunate accident, into the hands of the Spaniards in I^ew Mexi- co, and with feveral other Britifh fubjeds had been mod cruelly treated by them, arrived there. Having at length obtained his liberty, for he had been a confiderable time very rigidly confined,^ he came to New Ot- leans, to endeavour to procure a paflage, either to Virginia, Maryland, or Phila- delphia. This gentleman, defcended from a Ro- pian Catholic family in Maryland, was mafter of a veflel belonging to his brother Atha- li M j 1 1 ! ■, '■{ III 1 • ■1 i 1 i m I mi'i i il-il!('": III-' II" liHi I llF P:^'. 1 ; ^itm rJi- '1; JP-f 1 ■ , • 3/3 j4 Tour /;; /i&^ Athanafius Ford, of Leonard Town, in St. Mary's County, and had failed from the river Potowmak, loaded , with the French Neutrals (as they were called,) who had been removed from Nova-Scotia by the Briti(h government on account of their flrongprediledion to the French intereft there, which at every rifk they were al- ways ready to promote and fupport. The vefTel was navigated by Brltifh failors, and was bound to the Miffiffippi, in order to carry thefe French Accadians to their country- men there, where they intended to fettle. But having got into the trade-winds, and being unacquainted with the navigation of that part of the gulf of Mexico, after having been reduced to thegreateft diftrefs for want of provifions, their whole (lock being ex- haufted for fome time, having fubfiftedon the rats, cats, and even all the (hoes and leather in the veifel, they ran into Ber- nard's bay, and landed at the mouth of Rio de la Norte, or Rio Grande, in the king- I '^ Vmte4 S totes of America. - .J . kingdom or province of New Mexico infteadoftheMifliffippi ' -eAi^rroHs::^^^^^^^^ -J«^ra.ei„.eire.aciaCed«:X^ repaft. when the veflel was feized on by o^ the K,ng ; and they were carried, moll of them to the town of New Mexico and 2T 7' ■'""""''^ ^"'"■" '^"«J from he place where they came on fhore on this mhofpitable coaft. Here they were all clofely confined for lome time. But at length the common people were permuted to go at large, in the day. on habitants. Yet the officers belonging to the vefTel *s we as all the Fno-lin, r -i ' ^"^ ^ngiifli failors, were ftill impri- i f, I.: H I ! |J >] II T v. :t-rX: 38P j4 Tour in the imprifoned with the moil rigid and bar*» barous feverity. However they were alfo offered a H- jnited enlargement, on condition of their figning a paper, written in the Spanifli language, which however they privajely contrived to obtain a tranflation of, and found it contained zn acknowledgment on their parts of having been guilty of the moft unjufllfiable and aggravated crimes, and of being treated with, the greateft hu- manity and tendernefs during this their captivity. This they had the refolution and virtue of refufing to fubfcribe to, although they were adually in danger of ftarving and perilhing for want of neceflaryfood. At length a prieft, poflefled of more hu- manity than the reft of the barbarous inhabitants of that country, having called to vifit them, took compaffion on their extreme wretchednefs, made them a pre- fent of a fat bullock every day, and inte- refted himfelf fo effectually for them as to obtain their enlargement. But ley to iut United States of America, 381 But fo numerous were this man's flocks of cattle, as well as of horfes, that although thcfe poor unfortunate creatures received above an hundred oxen from him, yet they could not be mifled out of the whole flock. And Mr. Ford aflured me that he pof- fefled more than fifteen thoufand horned cattle^ and near ten thoufand horfes and colts, which were kept fat without any trouble the whole year round by the lux- uriant pafture which that country affbrds. For it feems the land there is not over grown with woods, as in the reft of Ame- rica, but is univerfally a rich meadow, abounding with the fineft grafs in the world, and interfperfed here and there with clumps or clufters of tall and ftately trees. I made no confiderable ftay at New Orleans, which to me as wdl as to Mlr.^ Wood, Mr, Lewis, and Mr. Ford, was rather a difagreeable place; and Mr. Lewis and I fet out in a batteau for Manchac» leaving both Mr. Wood and Mr. Ford there, who were about engaging a paflage 9 for v i Hi ! r ii ti 'j= aiii. ;i!^ Ii "■... /h li;l:i|.', i. .! >i Ty ']i i^iK 382 ji Tour in the for Philadelphia in one of Willing and Morris's veflels. It was live days before we firrived at Mr. Edmund Gray's near Manchac ; but here I was mpft agreeably furprifed at meeting with an old acquaintance from Georgia, along with whom I had been initiated into the the myfteries of free-mafonry, in my journey through North-Carolina. His name was Allan Groves, and as he propofed returning to Georgia by the fame route as I did, we all agreed to join company together. Having procured a batteau on the Ib- berville, or Amit River, which falls into Lake Maurepas^ we embarked, andcoafled along the lakes, viz. Maurepas and Pon- chatrain, paffing by the mouth of the Nita Albany River, the Tangepahoa River, the Chefondo River, and the Pearl River which is divided into two branches, called Weft River and Eaft River, when it falls into the lake or bay of St. Lewis ; alfo the river Ookahootoo, the Chencala River, the Booka Hooma River, Hunting River, Pafqua- United States of America , 383 Pafquagoocula River, Cedar River, Pines Bay, and Pool River. Having touched by the way at a vaft many iflands, among which are Mattheu- raux Ifland, Roebuck Ifland, Cat Ifland, Ship Ifland, Broad Key, and Dauphin Ifland, we arrived at Mobile point, at the mouth of the great bay of Mobile, which is formed by a vaft concourfc of mighty waters. Here we made no (lay, but Immediately proceeded on our coafling voyage ; pafling the mouth of Perdido River, Efcambe or Jordan River, Middle or Governors Ri- ver, Cheiler River, St. Rofa River, Bay and Ifland, Chatahooche River, St. An- drew's Bay, River, and Ifland, Roebuck point, St. Jofeph's Bay, Cape St. Bias or Efcondido, and St. George's Ifland which forms the mouths of the river Califl:obole, and of the mighty river of Apalachicola, which is the eaftern boundary of the, province ot Weft Florida. ^ The II t! u4 3»4 ^ Tour in thi The lands in this province are indeed moft amazingly fertile and rich, cfpecially on the banks of the Miffiffippi. ' Old plantations, cultivated by the French fifty or fixty yeafs, produced laft year, tTiat is the year before I was there, ftom forty to' fixty bufhels of Indian corn to the acre'. '- The culture of every thing here is at- together by hand hoes, and manual labour of flaves, without the affiftance of horfea or oxen. ... c r ?: . • " .ft., • ' i »^ i 5 I *; o't; j. i ■ . t « ; t J >• «ii, ^1,:; i :•.} 5 " 1 it , 1:1! ii ■ i \ JU *1 CHAP. V>>it^d States of America. CHAP. XLVHI. 385 rado. North Riv.r, or Rio Bravo. W^ Gulf of California. Mine, of PoJflT' Old Mexico. UV^aCruJ Trn ''"'"' ^'finp,:onof.UC:^;:- ^^"""-Z^'- gEFORE I take „,, leave of the JLJ province of Weft Florida, it r..y not be improper to give a /ketch of the courfes, extent, and combination of the nvers; the diftances between different places, as well within the province as on the weft fide of the river^M/r' ? aongthecoaftoftheBayofMexicofas al o the ftate of the colony, culture of tl" of ^Slc^r °'''^^^' -' ^°P"'--. Weft Florida is bounded on the fouth b7 the Gulf of Mexico, including a , iHands &c within fix leagues of the coaft. from the mouth of Apalachicola ,0 the lake Ponchartrain ; on the weft it is bounded by the lake Mauripas. and Vol. I. Q ^ ^ ^ ^ A canal fl |i' h »' I 386 A Tour in the a canal, or river, named Ibbervllle, that joins the laft mentioned lake to the Mif- fiflippi, and by the Mifliflippi itfelf; on the north by a line drawn due eaft from that part of the river Miffif- fippi, which lies in the latitude of thirty-one degrees north, until it inter- feds the river Apalachicola or Catahoua- chee ; and on the eaft by the faid river, until it falls into the Gulf of Mexico. Its greateft length from eaft to weft, viz. from Apalachicola to the Mifliflippi, is about four hundred ftatute miles ; but its breadth is inconfiderable from north to fouth, being in few places fixty-nine miles according to thefe boundaries. From Rofe Bay, and St. Mary's Bay, to the north line, is not more than forty miles, which is the general diftance acrofs, as far weft as the lakes Poncharti*ain and Mauripas. From the mouth of the rivers Callfto- bole and Apalachicola to the north line is eighty-five miles, which is the wideft part of the province. 5 From I ^'^^d^^icsof^,,: erica, 3?- Fror^ ^H Loas or Mud ^pe at fh^ Ciit by the 1 1 I r '^''^^ -■•ghty miles bv knd. '"'^ Th ,,-idcfl ,art of the ifla„d of New " -Uix AfRettes, oppofite to C^t in i to the Miffifllppi, and is L. ''• fort, miles atl;: 3 "l^'^.f" ahniif ♦!,• * r P^^'» Which IS ivir real!" ^'°'''= "'^ --'• c river, then above that place frnrr, akes Ponchanrain and Mauripas: :„d WtheAmitandlbberviiieHvL it' not more than fiv^ «,;] • ' ^'^ is theMiffiflippi "'"""S^--'.to The town of New Orleans is in that lake V"h'' '^•""" *^ ^°-'' -"5 lake Ponchartrain and the MifUffi. abcK ninety miles fouth fro„,^^^:^; or nver of Ibberville and ». fame diftance north L u ' "'" the Miffiffippi. ^'""^ •''^ '"°""' of ^'^ From 388 A T^our in the \ I ( \:- From the uppcrmoft, or moft northerly end of the Ifland of New Orleans, to that part of the MiflilTippi at the thirty- fir ft degree of north latitude, is juft fifty miles. ^ Thefe diftances are in dircdt courfes over land, by no means following th« meanders of the rivers, which would generally render them double. This boundary, already mentioned, was that firfl eflablifhed for the province of Weft Florida ; but I have underftood that the north line has been extended farther up the river fince, to include the Natches, and the mouth of the river Yaflbus, to which lafl place it was carried back by Governor Johnftone's proclamation. From the upper part of the ifland of New Orleans to the confluence of the YaflTous is about a hundred and thirty miles north. From the mouth of the river Yaflfous, fouth to Natches Old Town, is about eighty miles; from Natches, fouth to l3aton Rouge, and Fort Bute, is about i» feventy- From the mouth c f the V=. /r„ *«coaftoftheGulfof4l t"^ Jong the rivers M.ffifl- • ,'"'="'' and a- «- hundred Li^ ^IT"^' ^ the chief of „;.,• u ^^^" "f rivers ; No«h Amir'i ir ^^ "' ^" ^orld. is the m- 1 ^^'P' '" the ^^^^pi/nlviSVt'"?^ "■-' AiMhony. which L ^^"' "^ ^t. hundred ml^^;r 7"''' ^"''"'ehteea •^ climates, ) ■ lU m !1! '! I, !■ m ! '■ ■ - ■'Wi ' I! k i 1 i' w 1 lin m Hi i 390 j4 Tour in the climates, and paffing through the largeft and finefl: country upon earth. Where it derives its fource is not known, having been traced as far as fifty-five degrees north latitude, and an hundred and ten degrees weft longitude from London ; being even there a very large river. The country in that part is very flat and marfhy, and the Indians themfelves cannot tell how inuch farther north and wefl it has its fource. From that place it runs in a fouth-eaft diredion to the forty-fecond degree north latitude, and ninetieth weft longi- tude ; then with many vaft bendings, continues almoft a dye fouth courfe, yntil it falls into the Gulf of Mexico in north latitude twenty- nine degrees ten mi- nutes, and eighty-nine degrees thirty- five minutes weft longitude ; having re- ceived a vaft number of wide, extenfive, and mighty rivers, and having ftretched along this globe in a di'^edl courfe, which has been traced, above three thoufand iniles ; United States of America. 39, n^iles.and including the prodigiousnu-x.- S than"; > '"' "'^-''- -t iefs than fix or feven thoufand miles. Its name in the Indian Ian. .age is laid to flgnifv narenf ^f • ^ foncfthfoian ' ™'°'-^'''^ft. . ^'/«"'ves more than an hundred confiderable rivers in its courf. "^ A^- W thoufand m C :t "7 ''^ chiefofwhich on the eftern ;?'''' '''^ following, viz. . ^'^"''^° fide are the ; J^^ft 'he Illinois, whofe fource is , tweea the lates Illinois or M eh Huron, and Erie, as the Mi4;''r/ The fecond is the vaft river Oh- r- River, anrodio-;. """^"^ Ohw, or Fair ' P'^oaigious concourfe of „ ■ , waters, extendin<. behind n ° ™'S'"y Settlements, whofe fo ' .' ^"'"^ New York srov.r " ^''""'^ ^n ^" ^arge LC? :i ^'^ -^^^^'e oflakeErie;rothat :t:7V;'- «he co„,„eft of Canada b'The 'b i^' S-t three thoufand men. :i;,';^So^ C C 4. ... ^ niiiitar/ V Jt' ': If- H I !i':m mit 392 A Tour in the jnilkary ftores, bagj^-'ge, &c. from Que- bec to New Orleans ; viz. up the river St, Laurence, acrofs lake Ontario, and lake Erie, and down French Creek, the Ohio, 3nd the Mifliflippi. The Ohio itfelf receives above an hundred rivers in its courfe, feme of which (particularly the Cherokee cr HogOi- hegee) are equal to the largeft in Europe. The laft river that falls into the Miffi^ iTippi on the eaftern fide, that I (hall take notice of, is the Yaffous, a fine, placid, (deep, and beautiful ftream, being navi- gable near an hundred and fifty miles. It takes its rife ne^r the falls of the Cherokee, or Hogohegee River, and runs through the Chickefaw nation, receiving many branches, but none very confider- able, in its coiirfe of three hundred miles to the Mifliflippi, which is in a direct line, or five hundred miles with Jts windings. From the fource to the mouth of this very fine river, it is a moft delightful open puntfjp, ^ith few mountains or hills, coi^* ipei> [ills, United States of America. 593 confidering its inland fituation, and is the happieft, and moil excellent and agree* able climate in the world. It is poffeflcd chiefly by the Chicke- faws, a very gallant, brave, and refped:- able nation, and firm Allies of Great Britain, as has been already mentioned. On the weftern fide of the Mifliffippi are many vaft rivers, but none more con- fiderable than the Ohio. However not one of them is fo well known. The largeft is the PohitenousjOrMifouri^ whofe fource has not been difcovercd, and whofe courfe extends (perhaps) fome thoufand miles, before it enters the Mif- fiflippi, which is almoft oppofite to the confluence of the Illinois, only about twenty-feven miles below. A large river north of the Miflbury is the river Moingona, and ftill farther north is St. Peter's River. South of the Miflburi is the river St. Francis ; proceeding fouthward, the next i? the Imahans or Akanfaw River. Then 194 yf Tb/zr /;i //6^ Then that moft excellent, valuable, and delightful river, named Rio Rouge, or Red River, which is of vaft extent, ex- tremely crooked, placid, and beautiful beyond defcription. The Red River receives two very large branches on the north fide, named the Black River, and Ox River, and falls into the. Mifliffippi almoft oppofite to Tonikas in Well Florida: this is the laft river I fhall take notice of on the weftern fide of the MifTiflippi. ,' The moft remarkable places weft, a- long the coaft of tl e great Bay of Mexico, from Cape Laos, or Mud Cape, at the mouth of the Mifliffippi, is firft la Balife Fort and Illand, fome diftance weft is Enfe- nada de Palos, then Woods Bay and Ifland, Ouachas Lake, Afcenfion Bay, Vermillion Bay, then from Ouachas Lake to North Cape are eight fmall rivers, and two lakes. There is alfo an ifland at the Cape, in which indeed is the Cape itfelf, firft difcovered in the year one thoufand fe- ven hundred and twenty-fix. Weft Vmted States of America. 39, Weft of the Cape, the firft is a fmall nver, and a large bay named Jacdaiches Bay, with three rivers running into if- the next is Mexicana River, which fome diftancefrom thefea is named Adayes River- then a fmall but long ifland; then the river Flons; a long ifland ; the river Magdalen • anotherifland5andafmallriverjthea R'o de la Trinidad j Dun River which falls mto la Maligne River ; Colorado or Cane River; little Cane River; and Guadaloupe River; Leon River 5 Rio del y.no ; and Honda or Deep River, all fall into St. Bernards or St. Lewis's Bay and tbeBayofSt.Jofeph. ^ ^ On the fouth weft of Maligna River M. la Salle fettled in the year X 685, and was blled about three hundred mifes up Tnmdad River, in the year 1 687 On the river Sablomini is the town andfettlementofPrefidio; within the bay f;!/!V^°''« ^ -«d "Pon the bants of t^fe different rivers and tneir branches f '' '^' "^^'""^ °f Killamouches and Al- Ja.cappa, wandering Indians, The. 396 A Tour in the fi ♦ t*i The rivers Guadaloupe and Leon fall into St. Jofeph's Bay, on the fouth-weft of which is a very long and large ifland named St. Jofeph's ifland 3 and the rivers Honda, Del Vino, Sacro, and Nuces or Nutts, fall into a Bay on the fouth-weft of it, forming St. Jofeph's Lake or Bay. Gn the fouth fouth-weft is the mouth of the great river Bravo, or De la Norte, - • which bounds on the nor^h and eaft the kingdom of New Leon, and is indeed a very large and noble river. The next river of any note is Rio de Iks Palmas, which is named Rio de las Nacos at fome diftance from the fea. This id a fine beautiful large river, and derives its fource within an hundred miles of the Gulf of California in the South Sea. Rio de la Norte or North River is alfo a very extenfive and charming river, con- fiderably larger than the laft mentioned one, running in a courfe about middle way between the Mifliflippi and the Cali- fornian Gulf, and the rivers Colorado, le los Martyree, and Rio Grande le lo$ Apoftolo§, 'United States of America. 39^ Apoftolos, or Del Coral or Blue River which form or fall into the Gulf, but IS nearer to California by five or fix hundred miles than to the Milfiffippi. Thefe vaft rivers, efpecially Rio de la Norte, and the Miflburi, head very near each other, about the forty-fixth degree north latitude, and the hundred and fifth Weft longitude. I have thus inveftigated the fource of l^iefe prodigious and extenfive waters, on a foundation that may be relied on ; and it will give power to form a more juft and perfea idea of the country, by mentioning the diftances thefe vaft waters, and principal places, are from each other! From Cape Loas to Bernard's Bay is about four hundred and fifty miles, thence to the mouth of Rio de la Norte two hundred, then to Rio de las Palmag IS feventy.five miles, which make alto^e- ther feven hundred and twenty.five miles. The courfe of Rio de las Palmas is yearly eaft, and the extent of it about five hundred and fifty miles. . From r M 398 A 'tour in the It,''* From the mouth of Rio de las Palmas, in the Gulf of Mexico, weft to the South Sea, at the mouth of the river Culiacan, the beginning of the Californian Gulf, is fix hundred miles. From Tonikas on the Miffiffippi to Mexico^ or Juan Baptifta on Rio de la Norte, is fix hundred and fifty miles ; viz. to the crofting of Red River an hundred and fifty, to Adayes feventy- five, to Trinidad feventy-five, to the Rio St. Marco is an hundred and fifty, to Mexico on the North River two hun- dred. From Mexico to. California, at the Bay of St. Luccis, Pearl River, or the Bay of St. Mary's near Cinaloa, or to Culiacan, is five hundred and feventy-five miles ; viz. to the head of Pearl River three hundred and feventy-five miles, to the mouth two hun- dred and fifty miles, this being in the fouth part of New Navarre. New Mexico or St. Paul's is about fix hundred miles, up the North River, from the Gulf of Mexico. From ' United States of Amoica. 399 From Mexico, on the North River to to Old Mexico feveu ht^ndred. to Aca- pulc^o^„.„e hundred, and the fame to La Froni Acapulco to La Vera Cruz is three hundred miles, from Old Mexico to La Vera Crt^z two hundred and feventy, and to Acapulco two hundred and feventy All thjs country, to the weft of the Mif- ligSui." '"'°'"P"''''''y P'^'''^"' and de- Inthefertilityofthefoil.intheagreeable m.ldneft of the climate, in the foftnefs and falubntyofthcair.aswellasintheabun. dance and excellence of moft beautiful water-courfes. it is not exceeded, perhl not equalled, by any other part of h . whole ,mme„fe continent of America, ll deed U can be furpafled by „o country i„ theumverle. The multitude of moft ele gant and charnung fltuations that excel m grandeur and delightfulnefs of perfpec t.ve as well as the aftonifl,i„g lu.uriLe of the fod. are far beyond any thing that can be conceived. S,, 1 here 400 A Tour^ G?r. ! H %! f • There are alfo vaft numbers of excellent harbours, and beautiful cxtenfive navigable rivers. The earth pours forth every ve- getable produdion in the moft abundant profufion, almoft fpontaneoufly, and in a manner without labour. Black cattle, horfes, and every ufeful animal, multiply to an in- credible degree, without any kind of trou- ble, as there is no occafion for providing a flock of provender for them againft winter. In fhort, there is no advantage, charm, or defirable qualification, that bountiful na- ture can beflow, but is heaped, with a de- gree of profufion, on this lovely country, that is not to be defcribed in language, or conceived in idea. For it really is capable of being rendered, not only the garden of America, but of the whole world. Yet this fine country is at prefent little better than an uncultivated defart, owing to the miftaken and narrow policy of the Spanifh governmv^nt, under whofe abfo- lute, and uncontrouled domination it has ever remained. END OF THE FIRST VOLUME. M ill ent ible ve- ant n a fes, in- )U- ga cer. or aa- le- or ble of tie :he o- las