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2 3

THE DOROTHEA "" AND TRENT AMONG THE ICEBERGS.

.-•i*

II IK MAR\i;i,()LS

Wonders of the Polar World.

BKINC A

I )

COMPLETE AND AUTHENTIC HISTORY

?0!AGES m DISCOVERIES IN THE POLAR REGION,

iNc;.rniN(t tiik i.-wkdithins of sir joiin tkanklin, ijkit. hkii.wkn. iiu.

KANK, DR. IIAYKS, ADMIRAL Rn(JER;', CAl'T. HAM,; I.I KIT. St'llWATK AS

tiiiii;k-timhsa.ni)-.mii.k slkixik joirnkv; tiik. criisk and i,<»ss (»f

TIIK .iKANNirrrK, TIIK K.VTK OF DKI.ONd, A.ND HKSCIK OK DANKN-

ll;)\VKR AND MKIA'II.I.K; CLOSING WTTII A FILL IllSTORV OF

THE (illKKLV KXPEDITION, UEINO A RKCORD OF INI'AR-

ALLKLKD ADVKNTIRK, SLKFKRINd AND 1>KATII.

FROM TIIK NARRATIVES OF

IIEDT. GREELY, COMfflANDER SCHLEY, LIEDT. MEHHOWER,

ani)TH1':<)TIIi:r(;.\!.[..\xt iikuoks wjiofacki) UKATirniATTiir, woui.d

MlUJiT KNOW THE .MYSTERIES <»F THE I'OLAR REciloNS.

TO WIIICII IS ADDKI) A

FULL ACCOUNT OF TITAT A I'i'A LLL\'G IIORnoli, CANXlliALlSi^r, AS TA FFN
FROM THE DlAlilES OF THE MEMBERS OF TJIE GRKEL Y EXJ'KDlTloy,

" Men under such awful circunnstances lose all control over their
better natures, and become even cannibals."

TIIK MIIOI.E CAREFIU.Y EinTKH HY

H E II INI A N D 1 E C K , A.M.,

THE WELL-KNOWN AUTHOR.

PROFUSELY TLT.rSTRATED WITH SCENES AND TNCmENTS IN THE ROIwVR

REGIONS AND PORTRAITS OF ARCTIC ITKROES FltOM OIMG-

INAL SKICTCIIES ANP PHOTOGRAPHS.

Thompson & Company,

^- GENKIIAL AGENTS,

FRliDliRlCTOX. NHW BRUNSWICK.

-" •**(,'^

254540

'M.,,

Entered according to Act of Conj^Tcss, in the year 1885, by

J. R.. JONES.

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C.

i^if

-If'' *

^-'i^^

-§*:¥,.

Preface.

Nearly three thousand years before the birth of Christ
the Tyrians and Phoenicians left their homes and firesides to
explore new realms, and to obtain from the then unknown
land of Spain the means of augmented wealth and luxury.
From that period down through succeeding ages until the
present time, enterprising men have found a congenial field
of labor and adventure in unknown regions in search of
riches, celebrity and conquest. This spirit has given birth
to many great states and empires. It was this spirit which
made England pass successively under the sway of Gallic,
Roman, Saxon, Danish and Norman conquerors, ""^ore es-
pecially still was it this restless spirit of adventure which
-created the greatness of the maritime cities of Genoa and
Venice, as well as that of the kingdoms of Portugal and Spain.

After the discovery of the American continent and after
the thorough exploration of the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans,
there was a field left which demanded greater heroism,
greater endurance and was fraught with greater perils than
any other part of the globe. This region lay far up toward
the North Pole. It was the land of everlasting: snow-fields,
of stupendous icebergs, of terrible storms, the land of the mid-
night sun. To navigate and explore these realms, men of
extreme daring, of sublime heroism, and of great persever-
ance were indispensable. These men possessed one great
element of distinguishing greatness, of which the explorers
.^f more congenial and inviting climates were destitute. Their
investigations were made without the prospect of rich reward
and chiefly for the advancement of Sijcience. The discovery
of a northwestern passage was kept in view, but other less

PREFACE.

mercenary and more philanthropic motives brought about
the larger portion of the expeditions, which, especially during
the nineteenth century, invaded the cheerless solitudes of
that dangerous and repulsive portion of the globe.

The recent terrible experiences of the DeLong and Greely
expeditions have awakened intense interest in the region
towards which the world still looks, with unsatisfied inquiry.
The object of this book is to present, in one volume, an
authentic record of all that can interest the general reader in
connection with the efforts put forth by Arctic explorers to
solve the problems presented in the Polar regions.

Nothing in the whole range of literature can be more enter-
taining than the accounts of the various expeditions to the
irozen North — that in search of a northwest passage under
Sir John Franklin, the voyages of Lieut. DeHaven, Dr. Kane
and Dr. Hayes, the three expeditions of Charles Francis Hall»
the remarkable sledge journey of three thousand miles, by
Lieut. Schwatka, U. S. A., the cruise and loss of the Jeannette»
and the relief expeditions sent out for DeLong, closing with
the account of the Greely expedition and the rescue of Lieut.
Greely and the survivors of his party — thus covering the
whole field of Arctic explorations.

No better example of the influence of lofty motives in the
conduct of life can be found than is seen in the case of these
brave adventurers and martyrs in the cause of science. The
youth of our country will draw many ennobling lessons from
the patriotic self-sacrifice of Franklin, Kane, Hayes, Hall, De-
Long and Greely, in the perusal of this work. There always
will be a great interest among the people in books relating
to voyages of discovery, adventure, suffering and death.

The taste of the artist and the skill of the engraver have
been brought into requisition to illustrate the information
conveyed, thus adding a charm and value to the work that
will be readily appreciated by every reader. "^

The Author.

ijs

=-v'^

CONTENTS.

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

CHAPTER I.

Introductory Remarks — The Progresx of Arctic Discovery — Comparatively little known of the Arctic
• Rrgions— 'i'hi; Norlliinen— John and Sebasttun Cabot— Martin Frobishcr- Davis— Henry Hudson—
bamn — Capuiii Phipps — Captain Coolc — Maclcenzie — De^hnew — liehring — Sir John Ross j

CHAPTER II.

Arctic F.xpbditions op thb Ninrtbbnth Cknturv— Sir John Ross— Captain Parry— Sir John Frank-
lin— Russian Expeditions under Von Wrangell and Anjou— Captain Beechey— Captain Ross fixes the
Position of the true Magnetic Pole— Back and Dr. Knig— Dease and Simpson— Dr. Rae finislies the
Geographical Exploration of the North Coast of the American Continent— Sir John Franklin's last Ex-

fieiliiion— Numerous Expeditions sent out in Search uf him— Captain McClintock finds Proof of Frank-
in's Deaih— Commander Inglewood's Expedition— Sir John Franklin the Discoverer ol the Nortli-
western Passage >o

CHAPTER 711.

Thb First American Arctic Expeditions— The first Ornnell Expedition under Command of Lieu-
tenant De Haven— After wintering near rfeechcy Island it returns safely to New York— Traces of Sir
John Franklin's Expedition foinul— An Arctic Winter ani its Horrors— Scurvy— The Expedition of
Commander Ingloficld, of the British Navy— He reaches Latitude 78° 28' 21", about 140 miles farther
north than had been previously attained — Lieutenant Osbjrn's Expedition 33

CHAPTER IV.

'I'hb SKCo'rJD Gkinnbll EXPEDITION, COMMANDED BY Dr. E. K. Kame— Two Winters in the Arctic
Region, the first in Latitmle 78° 37', Longitude 70" 40' — A Sledge Expedition from here pushes as far
as Cape Constitution in Washington Land, Latitude Si" 27', and finds Kenntdy Channel free from
Ice, aboi.nding with Animal Life, and opening in a great Polar Se.i — Safe Return to the United States
•n 1855 • 44

CHAPTER V.

American Arctic I.xpedition— Expedition of the United States Ship Vincennes under Commander
John Rodgers — Petropaulovski — Benring Strait — Wrangell Land 6<.

CHAPTER VI.

Explorations op Dr. Isaac I. Hayes- He visits Melville Bay— Winters at Port Foulke— Arctic Night
described — Highest Point reached 74

CHAPTER VH.

The Explorations op C. F. Hall— Limited Resources— Generous aid by Messrs. Grinnell, Williams
and Haven— Buries his Native Companion Kud-la-go — Holsteinborp — Destruction of the Rescue and
the Expedition Boat — Inland Excursions — Frobisher Strait or B.iy — Hall's Second Arctic Expedition —
Sailing of the Monticello— Winter-Quarters at Fort Hope — King William's Land 80

CHAPTER VIII.

The Polaris F^xpbdition op 1871— Death and Burial of Captain Hall— The Polaris Leaves the Harbot ^
and Drifts South — The Separation— Drift on the Floe — Rescue by the Tigress — Rescue of the Polaris
Party by the Ravenscraig 9S

CHAPTER IX.

Tm Gbkman Expedition under Koi-dbwey— Departure from Bremerhaven — Separation from the
lunsa— Wreck of the Hansa — Adrift on the Ice — Danger of Starvation — Return to Fredericksthal 114

CHAPTER X.

Thb Aihtrian Expedition — Weyprecht and Payer set out in the Tegetthoff— Great Discoveries — Fall
of a Sledge — Franz Joseph's Land — March to the Sea — Rescued by a Russian Whaler — The Results
of the Expeditions 134

(3)

4 CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XI.

ExraoiTiON OF Captain Giohob Narks -The ships Men mil Di«covery— Death from Kxprnure—

Mnrkham's Sleilge journey— He reucht's the Highest I'oiiit ait;iinf(l thus far— Lieuleiiaiit Schwatka'i
xp<cliiion — In Kiiijj William'!i Land— Relics i>f Sir John Kranklin Discovered— The Kucordu of
McCliiituck Found — Safe Return IJS

CIIArTKR XII.

Nordknskjold's Numbri '» Polar Voyages— The VcRn- An Old Pri)lilrm Solve<l— Thr Northern-
most Toint of Asia— A Winter in the Land of the Tchnktchi— A Trip around the World— Magnificent
Festivitie!) in Honor of NordcnskjUld and his party 149

CHAPTER XIII.

Libutknant DRLoNti's ExPBDiTioN SBTS OUT PROM San Francisco IN 1 HR Jrannkttk— Hc reaches
St. Lawrence Bay, East Siberia, where he learns that the Vi-«a had gotic South — Lieutenant Danen-
hower In Dangir -if losing the *-" ;ht of his left Lye— An ()per.iti()n P.-rfornied — Two Winters in the
Pack — The Jc.ii 'leti • Crushed he Ice— Retreat Southward— Disco .'cry of Henrietta and llennett
Island— Melville wid 'lis Party ..ved— DeLong and his Men die o( Starvation, and Chipp's Ho-it
Swamped by the S m- DeLong's La..t Records — How Noros and Nitidemann were Saved— Search for
DeLong and Cliippt- -Ruturn of the Survivors i6i

CHAPTER XIV.

Thb Evrnts or tub JrANNBTPB ExPF.niTioN DnscKinRD iiv CiiiBP-ENf.iNBHR Mbi.villr— A Drift ot

Twenty-Iwo Months in the Ice-Pack — The Melville Canal — Three New Islands discovered— Henrietta
Island — The Destruction of tlie Jeannetlc — The Dogs Aliandontd— The Retreat — Drifted to the North-
west— liennctt Island— The Lena River Reached— Nearing the Sllierian Coa^t— Without Drinkinf;
Water fur Kive Days — At the Delta of the Lena — Mountanis in Si^ht — Mr. Melville KfTccts a Liuul-
ing — Frozen Le(;s and Feet— On Half-Raiiims — The First Yakut Seen — Speaking by Signs— Itulunga 1
BulnnKa ! — Janiavialock — Putrid Goose as a Delicacy — The HiU of the Stavosta at J.unavialock —
Kusni.i— First News of DeLong and His Parly— Melville in Search of DeLong— Noros and Niudemann
Found — Their Story — Melville starts from Ihindak— On the Trail of the Seamen- Ou the West Bank
of the Lena 187

rilAPTER XV.

Mblvillb's Narrative (Canlinue(i)—\n the Lena Dell.i — A Yakut Yourt in Winter— DeLong's Records
Found — Following up DeLong's Trail— Recovery of the Records of the Jeannette— Retreat to North
Bulun — Journeying durill^; a Siberian Winter — More Traces of DeLong's Party— Retreat Toward
Bulun— Un the Lena Delta ^iS

CHAPTER XVI.

The Jrannette Exphdition, as Describei) iiv Lieutenant Daneniiowfr — Leaving mi Francisco —
East Cape Rounded — Herald Island — Wrangell Land — Frozen in — Cold Weather — 5a degrees Fahren-
heit — Aurora Borealis — Sufficient Game— Ice Bears Killed — Melville's Canal — Jeannette Island and
Henrietta Island 334

CHAPTER XVII.

The Ship Drifting to thb Northwest — The Final Moments in the Life of the Jeannette — Abandon-
ing the Jeannette — The Ship Fills with Water and Sinks— Encamped on the Ice — Preparing for the
Travel Southward — Bennett Island 255

CHAPTER XVIII.

Rbliep Expeditions for the Jeannette — First Cruise of the Corwin. 1880 — Search for missing
Whalers and the Jeannette — Kin^s Island — Wrangell and Herald Land in Sight — Second Cruise of the
Corwin, 1881— Plover Bay— Exploring Wrangell Land— Search-Expedition of the Rodgers— The Ship
Burned — Expedition of the United States Steamer Alliance to Hammerfest and Spitzbergcn — No
Tidings of the Jeannette 303

CHAPTER XIX.

Mbteorological Stations in thb Polar Regions— An International Congress— Stations Recom-
mended by the Polar Commission — The Instructions of the Officers in Command of these Expeditions —
Preliminary Expedition of the Schooner Florence— Valuable Scientific Observations k 3it

CHAPTER XX.

Lady Franklin Bay— The Greely Expedition— The Names of the Members of the Party— The Instruc-
tions of the Chief Signal-Officer— The Proteus sets out to convey the Party to Franklin Bay— Establish-
ing Fort Conger- Attempted Reliefs in 1882 and i88i— Expeditions of the Neptune and the Proteus —
The Latter Crushed — '.ieutenant Colwell's Boat-Journey South— Return of the Relief Expedition-
Spicy Letter of Mr. Linden Kent to General W. B. Hazen 3iy

CHAPTER XXI.

Thb Ex. tuition of Libutbnant P. H. Ray to Point Barrow— His Letter to General Hazen— Re-
turn of Lieutenant Ray— The Greely Party left at Lady Franklin Bay by the Proteus— Relief Expedi-
tions sent out in i88a and 1883 — They do not find the Colonists — Two Years on the Shore of Ladv
Franklin Bay— All in fair health— Lieutenant Greely's Instructions to the Relief Vessels— The Provi-
sions should be Cached near Cape Sabine and at other Places on the E^st Coast of Grinnell Land — The
Instructioiu not heeded — Lieutenant Gartinglon's Orders 33^

CONTENTS.

CIIAl I'KR XXTI.

Tm« Lifb op thb Coi-dnists at Foht CoNciFH— In C.imp— KrcctiiiR a Hou«e — Scientific Observmloim —
Sergeant lirainarcl Kstalilishcx a llenot iif Provisions .it Ci'ie Hrethcy —An Arctic Wir.ter — Meteor-
i<loi{ical Phenomena — Aurora lloriMlis— Tidal (ihservalicms — Pastimes anil Aniiiscmcnts — Among the
Kloci— DiflTiciilt Travcllinn over UunimocUs and on ilif Frozen Sua — Ur. Pavy, Sergeant Kiif.and
Ei(iuimaii Jens Kdwanls Umlcrtake a Sleilur Joiirnry i<\\ the Frozen Arctic— A Wonilerful Ksc.ipe —
(Jraphic Description of SrrHeant Rice— l.ienteiiant Lockwood's lonrney to the Highest Point ever
Keached^Alung ihoCuast ofUrecnlaml— Ixjckwuod Island— Incredible Hardships

3¥>

CIIAPTKR XXIII.

Nkar tub North Polb— Animnl Life and Vegetation of (irinnell Land— Major Greely's Jonrneyn into
the Interior (>(^(irinnell Land — Wonderful Natural Phcnomrna— A Glacier Hursl.s — Journalism Near
the North Pole— The Arctic Moon— Amusements and I'astimcs of the Explorers 36I

CHAPTER XXIV.

PKnPARiNn FOR Rbtrrat — Crossing Grinnell Land — The l.asi Kxploring Trlp< — The Retreat— Leaving
many Pnivi-.ions and the Dogs behind— Alianduning tin: Sir im-Lanm li — A terrific Gale— On the Ice-
Floc— (Jaining Land at F.s-juimau Point — Rations found at Cape Isabella :iii<l Cape Sabine — Death
staring in their Face — In Winter Quarters— The First Death-Scurvy the C.msi' 3^^

CHAPTER XXV.

Tun Rbsci'II— Tb"! Voyage of the Relief Ships Thetis, Hear, and Alert to Ladv Franklin Hay — Hattling
wiih the Ice— Looking out for the Greely P.irty — Finding the Survivors— A Terrible Sight- Relieving
the SulTeier>— Ten Graves — Homeward Hound — Meeting the Alert— Death irf Elison — Inlcrmeni of
Frederick Christiansen 391

187

.'iS

CIIAPTKR XXVI.

TllR Rbscl'K (Conlinued^ — Ofiicial Reports of the Rescue of ibc Survivors of ilie (Ireely I arty — Terrible
Sufferings — The Rescued Men frantic with joy — Narratives uf Lieutenant Cjreely and I'rivalc Coiinell—
Devotion and Heroism of the Men — How Greely was Rescued, as narrated by a Naval Officer 404

^ CHAPTER XXVII.

Cannibalism in its Worst Form — Private llinry Shot from Behind and his Flesh Eaten — Lieutenant
Greely on the Cause of the Kxetiition— Hei ry Accused nf I avinu Stolen Rations— Si rgeant F.Iison on
his Deatli-bcd declares the Shoiiling of He'iry Unjiisiifiablo — Who is to Blame for the Sufferings of
Greely's Men? — The Relief Squadron Arrives at Poiistnouth Harbor — Naval Welcomes fiT the 'I'lielis,
Bear, and Ali-rt -Reception in the Town — Reunion of thi- Survivors an 1 their Relatives — .Mrs. CJreely
Arrives — A 'I'hrilling Reunion 43s

aj4

CHAPTER XXVIII.

How THE Hoiiiiis OF thr Victims wnuR iNrnRm^n-Proofs of Cannibalism — The Flesh of Lieutenant
Kislingbury's Body cut off with Knives — The Carte-de-visitc of a Surgeon — The (jreely Survivors —
Their Physical Condition whi n Rescued — Surgeon Green's Report — What Lieiilenaiu Greely s.iys con-
cerning Cannibalism — Lieutenant Greely on Dissensions in the Cam|) — Dr. Pavy takes his own Life—
The Body washed away — A Story full of Horror — The first Taste uf Human Flesh — Private Henry
Welcome Food 446

»55

I303

CHAPTER XXIX.

Thb Grrri.Y Rrcords— His Official Report Sent In— Views of Prominent Officers and Scit.itists Re-

fardinn the Greely Kxpedilion — Dr Kmil Besscis, (Jcneral liennel, Mr. George Keeiian, Lieutenant
)«nenhower and Nindemann Denying Sensational Reports — The Comiitiim of Greely's Men when
Found — An Unofficial Report of Lieutenant Greely — Some Blame for Greely — Sergeant Brainard — In
Defeiu eof Lieutenant Greely — The Relief of Greely — Riport of Comniandcr Schley of the Expedition —
Just in Time — Desperate Situation of the Party on .Arrival of the Relief Ships— 'ierrible Sunehne and
Death — The Condition of the Camp — Six Bodies had been Cut and the Fleshy Parts Removed to a
greater ur less Extent — General Huzen on Garlington's F'ailure — ( 'ongrcssionul Invcsligutiun Suggested. 470

CHAPTER XXX

FtiTURB Expeditions — How Lieutenant Lockwood and Lieutenant Greely Spent Christmas in the Arc-
tic Region — Extracts from the Diary of the Former Officer, who Lost his Life Among the Icebergs of
Cape Sabine— The Sufferings of Holiday Week — The Fiend of Hunger — New Year, 1884 — A Christmas
in Grinnell Land, as Described by Lieutenant Greely — 1 he Work Done by Greely — Lockwood Sees
Cape Robert Lincoln, the Highest Northern Latitude Ever Seen by Man — The Secretary of War on
the Result of the Expedition Future Expeditions to the Pole— Lieutenant Greely Says that the Best
Rou;e is Via Franz Jusef Land— When to Start— How the Crew should be Selected and Equipped.... yta

■%

CONTKNTS.

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

CHAITKK 1

ExramTIONn to THI AfrrAHCTIC Rroionh— The Smith Pitlar RfRloin even more Inho^pilnhte than the
Arctic— An Antarctic Summer— Search fur Tcrrii Austialis— Kirit Vnyage Aroiinil Cape Mom— Cap-
lain Cook's Kxpedition t" Discover the Northwest Hassaffe — His Arrival at the Sandwich Islands —
Miiidt red — Captain Clerke takes Charge nf the Kxpedition— The New Shetland Inlands— Tl'e Kiissian
Sea Captain IklhnKhaiisen Reaches a very Smilhern Point- Expeditions of Captain U'UrvdIe of the
French and Lieutenant Wilkes of the United States Navy— Victoria Land i

CHAPTER II.

Tub Lipi? df C-'aptain Iamhs Cook — The Parents of Captain James Cook— Apprenticed to a Haber-
dasher—On Hoard of the Ship Kree-Love — A Common Sailor— Later a Mate— He enters the Royal
Urilish Navy— Masti-r of the Garland and the Mercury — Taking Soimdinp of the Channel of the St.
Lawrence River and Surveyintt it — Mailerof the Manof-War Northuml)erlaiid— Married — Marine Sur-
veyor of Newfoundland and Lahrador — Kxpedition sent out tmder Li'Mitenant Cook to Olservc the
Transit of Venus — Madeira — Rio Janeiro — Cape Horn — Otaheite— Taking Observations — Leaving
Otaheite ij

CHAPTER III.

Captain Cook's Vovaoim— Hicks Bay— Hostility of the Inhabitants- The Transit o. Mercury— Nearly
Shipwrecked— South Cape— Botany Bay— In groat Dancer— Ship Aleak— Refitting the Ship for Sea-
Attempts to put to Sea— The Pumps decayed— New South \Vale»— New Guinea— An Aurora Horealis —
A Dutch Set. leinent— Disease on Board— Loss of thirty Men by Death — Home again from .1 Foreign
Shore 10

CHAPTER IV.

Cook's SuroNn Expedition in the Ships Rbsolution and Adventurf— Reaching Table Bay— Fields
of Ice— Aurora Auslralis — Dusky Hay — Queen Charlotte's Sound — Cook Visits Queen Charlotte'*
Sound— Scurvy on Hoard- Pitcairn Island— Society Islands — Return to Queen Charlotte's Sound —
Marquesas Islands— Shepherd's Isles— The New Hebrides— Third Visit of Queen Charlotte's Sound.... 39

CHAPTER V.

Caitain Cook's DePAKTttRE from Nr.w ZPAi.ANt)— Terra drl Kueco — Possession Bay — Isle of Georgia
— Rituniing to Kiij;lan<l — Appointed a Captain in Greenwich Hospital — An F.xpeditien to find a North-
western Passage— Captain Cook in Command— Captain Cook sails on thegth of July, 1776 — Teneriffe —
CrnssinK the F.quator— Arrival at Cape ol Good Hope — Prinre Edward's Island — Kerguelen and Van
Diemen's Land — Ajiain at Queen Charlotte's Sound — Ten Men eaten up by the New Zeabnders —
Otaheite- Omai returned to nis Native Isle — 'I'he Coast of New Albion — Prince William's Island —
Oo"alaska — The Laiul of the Tscluiktchi — Return to Oonal.iska — Meeting Russian Seamen — Return to
the Sandwich Islands — Owhyhee— Krakatoa Bay — The Death of Captain Cook as related by an Eye-
witness — Murdered by the Savages— His Body 'I'erribly Mutilated — An Interesting Document from the
hands of Dr. Benjamin Franklin— Captain Clerke, the Successor of Captain Cook, visits Kamschatka —
He returns Southward and dies — C.'.ptain Gore succeeds in commund to

CHAPTER VI.

Thr Uniti-d States Antarctic Explobino Expedition i'viipr tiir Command op Lieutenant
CiiARi.ES Wilki-s, U. S. N. — Instructions of the Navy Department to Lieutenant Wilkes — Departure
from the United States— Arrival at Fuiichal, on the Islr of Madeira — The Smi.idron S.dls from Madeira
— Arrival at St. Jago — Porto Praya — Arrival at Rio Janeiro— The City of Rio Janeiro — Passing Cape
Horn— Anchoring in Grunge Harbor — Preparations for a Short Cruise to the Antarctic Sea u8

CHAPTER VII.

Departure op the Antarctic Expedition from Orange Harbor— The Porpoise and the Sea-Gull
Separate during a Gale — Elephant Island — F'.xpedition of the Peacock and Flying Fish — A Te-rible
G.ile and an Aurora Australis — Turning the Vessels' Heads Northward— The Peacock Arrives -it Val-
paraiso—The Relief in a Gale near Noir Island — Losing Her Anchors — Departure from Valparaiso —
Arrival at Callao— A Jaunt into the Interior of Peni — Storc-Ship Relief Ordered Home — Minerva Isl-
and—Arrival at Tahiti — The Porpoise Sails for the Samoan Group, and the Vincennes to Papieti — As-
cending Mount Aorai — The Harbor of Pago-Pago — The Vincennes Sails from Tiiila— A Narrow Escape
— Tnvai Tried for Murder — In the Harbor of Apia — Apolima — Sailing for New South Wales — Arrival
at Sydney — Departure of the Sipiadron for an Antarctic Cruise — The Flving Fish and Peacock Sep-
arated from the Vincennes and Porpoise DnriuK a Gale — The Peacock Discovers a Guano Island — l.s
there an Antan.tic Continent?— Return of the Vincennes Northward— Proceeding of the Porpoise —
French Squadron Seen — Its Commander Refuses to Speak the Porpoise 147

CHAPTER VIII.

The Vincennes— Departure from Sydney— New Zealand— The Bay of Islands— Tongataboo— The
Feejce Group — Rewa— Cannibalism at Somu-Somu— Death of Lieutenant Underwood and Midshipman
Wjikes Henry— The Squadron parts Company— Passage of the Vincennes to the Island of Oahu —
M'Kean's Island — Arrival at Oahu — Arrival of the Peaiock and Porpoise at Oahu — Vatoa. or Turtle
Island — Visiting the Hawaiian Islands — Departure from Oahu — F^xpedition up the Columbia River,
Oregon— Nisqually — Loss of the Peacock — San Francisco and Manilla— Singapore— Table Bay i8a

■ 1

THE

•MARVELLOUS WONDERS

OF TIIK

POLAR WORL^.

CHAPTER I.

ito

INTRODUCTOKY KKMARKS.

The Prepress of Arctic Discovery — (.loniimralively little known of the Arctic Regions—
The Northmen — John and Sebastian C.iUot — Martin Frohisher — Davis — Henry Hudson—
Baflin — Captain I'hipps — Cajitain Cook — Mackenzie — Desh:iew — Behring — Sir John
Ross.

If you examine a map of the Arctic regions, showing what
was known of the countries around the North Polo in the
commencement of the present century, you will find that
nearly all within the Arctic Circle was a blank. The Ice-
landers and Northmen were the first Arctic explorers, but
nothing is known of their discoveries except that they had
found a land which they called Greenland. In 1497 John and
Sebastian Cabot landed in Labrador, and afterward went as-
far north as 67° 30' in search of a northwest passage to India.
In 1576-78 Martin Frobisber made three voyages, discoAerin/
the entrance to Hudson and Frobisher Straits, leading into
Hudson Bay.

About the middle of the sixteenth century, several learned
men, including Sir Humphrey Gilbert, employed their pens
in arguing the practicability of a Northwestern Passage. In
his defence of such an attempt he spoke of a friar of Mexico
who had actually performed the journey, butswho, on celling
i| to the king of Portugal, had been forbidden to make it
nnown lest it should reach the world. Whatever the facts of
this case, some enthusiasm on the subject was the result, and
Martin Frobisher spoke of it as //ic one thing ** left undone."

17)

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.

But although he also persisted in his advocacy, it took fifteen
~ years of perseverance and

constant effort before he
could find any one who
would give him the assist-
ance he needed. At last,
when hope was nearly
dead within him, Dudley,
Earl of Warwick, came to
the rescue, and aided him
to fit out two small bar-
ques, thirty-five and thirty
tons burden respectively.
With these small craft, for
such a voyage, he left the
Thames. As he passed
Greenwich Palace, on the
8th of June, 1576, Queen
Elizabeth waved her fare-
well from a window. Briefly,
they reached what is be-

NURSL SEA-KING. *'

lieved to have been
the southern part of
Greenland and Lab-
rador, where they
could not land be-
cause of the icy field
surrounding the
coasc. Sailing to the
northward, Froblsh-
er met with a iricran-
tic iceberg, which
fell in pieces within
their sight, making
as much noise as
though a high cliff
had fallen into the
sea. They saw a
number of Esqui-
maux, and perhaps
the description given chrisiopher columdus.

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.

of them by the commander is as jroocl as any ever given in
few words : " They be Hke to Tartars, with long black hair,
broad faces, and flatte noses, and taunie in colour, wearing-
seale skinnes ; and so doe the women, not differing in the

SIR AlAkllN IROlJlbHKR.

|ashion, but the women are marked in the face with blewe
!£treekes dovvne the cheekcs and round about the eyes.'^
They came near the ship timidly, and after a while one of
them ventured into th(^ ship's boat, when Frobisher presented

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.

him with a bell and a knife, and sent him back with five of
the crew. They were directed to land him apart from the
spot where a number of his countrymen were assembled, but
they disobeyed his orders, and were seized by the natives, to-
gether with the boat, and none of them were heard of more.
Returning to the same spot a few days afterwards, one of the
natives was enticed alongside the vessel, when F"robisher, a
very powerful man, caught him fast, "and plucked him with
maine force, boate and all, into his barke out of the sea.
Whereupon, when he found himself in captivity, for very
choler and Jlsdaine he bit his tongue in twaine within his
mouth; notwithstanding he died not thereof, but lived until
he came to England, and then he died of cold which he had
taken at sea." With this " strange infidele " Frobisher set sail
for home, arriving at Harwich on October 2d.

The next voyage of Frobisher was instigated purely for the
further discovery of the precious metal, reported by him to
exist in large quantities on the east coast of Greenland. He
was furnished with "one tall ship," of 180 tons or so, and two
barques of about thirty tons each. On the way north they
observed some enormous icebergs, more than half a mile
in circuit, and seventy to eighty fathoms (210 to 240 yards)
under water. The ice being perfectly fresh, Frobisher came
to the conclusion that they " must be bredde in the sounds, or
in some land neere the Pole." They loaded up with the ore
from Hall's greater island, and on a small island in Frobisher
Strait. "All the sands and cliffs did so sflister, and had so
bright a marquesite, that it seemed all to be gold, but upon
tryall made it prooved no better than black-lead."

On this expedition they had several altercations with the
natives, and in one skirmish in York Sound killed five 01 six
of them. It is said that they found here some of the apparel
of their five unfortunate companions, who had been seized the
previous year by the natives. By means of two captives they
brought about some degree of intercourse with the Esqui-
maux, and left a letter, understanding that their own sailors
were still alive, but they were never more seen. Having
loaded with about two hundred tons of the supposed gold ore,
they set sail for home, a here they arrived safely, to the greajjt
delight of all. A "go I fever" spread, the cupidity of the
heart was awakened ; a dishonest man, who was an authority
in such matters, and who, therefore, knew better, pronounced

INTRODUCTOl'.Y REMARKS.

I I

the mica to be gold: the court, nobles, and merchants went
crazy on the subject. It was determined that a third expedi-
tion should be despatched the following year (1578).

The fleet on this occasion consisted of no less than fifteen
vessels. One hundred persons were taken to form a settle-
ment, and remain there the complete year. Frobisher was
appointed admiral and general. From first to last the voy-

KKOUISHER PAS'ilNG GREENWICH.

age was disastrous. In the straits named after Frobisher, one
of their larger barques struck so violently on a mass of ice
that she sank in sight of the whole fleet, and although all the
j^ople on board were saved, a part of the house intended for
the setders went down with the wreck. A violent storm next
ensued, which dispersed the fleet, some of the vessels being
fixed in the ice of the strait, others being swept away to sea.

INTKOnUCTOKV KKMARKS.

It was a severe season, and they were bewildered by fogs,
snow, and mist. After many perils and much hardship, it was
at length decided that each captain should load his ship with
ore and set homewards. The Heet arrived in England on or
about October ist, having- lost some forty persons. The ore
being now carefully examined proved worthless pyrites ; and.
the Arctic gold-mines seemed to have proved a " fizzle " as
great as any of the worst which have succeeded them.

On the 7th of June, 1585, two vesr>els left IJartmouth in
command of John Davis, and on the 19th of July were off the
west coast of Greenland. As they proceeded northward,,
they observed •' a rocky and mountainous land," its summit
covered with snow, Davis naming it "The Land of Desola-
tion." He could not land there,, owing to the coasl-ice, and
after sundry explorations to the southward, and again to the
northwestward, discovered an archipelago of islands, to which
he gave the title of Gilbert Sound. After other explorations
they reached a fine open passage (Cumbeirland Strait) be-
tween Frobisher's Archipelago and the island now called
Cumberland Island. After a week's further stay they deter-
mined to sail for England, where they arrived safely on Sep-
tember 30th,

The second voyage of Davis had not been particularly
prosperous either as regards commerce or discovery, but his
persistency and perseverance induced the merchants to de-
spatch a third expedition in 1587. On this voyage he pro-
ceeded as far north as 'J2>°y ^^id discovered the strait which
now bears his name. Davis made no more Arctic voyages.
He was afterwards employed in the East Indian service.

In the year 1594 the United Provinces determined to send
out an expedition in the hopes of finding a northern route to
China and India. The city of Amsterdam contributed two^
vessels: Zeelandt and Enkhuysen one each. Willem Barentz,
" a notable, skillfull, and wise pilote," represented Amsterdam,
while the other vessels were respectively commanded by Cor-
nelis Cornelison and Brand Ysbrants. The vessels left the
Texel on June 5th, and soon after separated. Following first
the fortunes of Cornelison and Ysbrants, we find that they
reached Lapland on the 23d, and proceeded eastward at^
reached Waigatz Island, Sailing through Waigatz Strait, they
found and were impeded much by large quantities of floating
ice ; later they reached an open sea perfectly clear of it. The

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.

land to the southward was in* sight, and trended apparently to
the southeast. Without more ado they concluded that they had
discovered an open passage round Northern Asia to China,
and turned their vessels' bows homewards. Meanwhile,
Barentz crossed the White Sea, and eventually made the west
coast of Nova Zembla ; proceeding thence northwards, nam-
ing several headlands and islands. About latitude 77° 25'
they encountered an immense field of ice, of which they could

MOCK SUNS, SEEN ON FOURTH OF JUNE, 1596, BY BARENTZ.

see no end from the mast-head, and they had to turn back.
After becoming entangled in drift-ice, and experiencing misty,
cold, and tempestuous weather, the crew began to murmur,
^d then refused positively to proceed. On the homeward
wiyage, after they had arrived at Maltfloe and Delgoy Islands,
they met the other ships, the commanders of which were ju-
bilant with the idea that they had discovered the Northeast
Passage. At all events, on their return, the reports given by

INTRODUCroKY REMARKS.

them were so favorably consideriid, that preparations were
immediately made for a second expedition.

The second expedition consisted of seven vessels : six laden
with wares, merchandise, and money, and factors to act as
traders ; the seventh, a small pinnace, was to accompany the
rest for part of the voyage, and bring back news of the pro-
ceedings. These extensive preparations were rendered

NOVA ZFMBLA-ROUTE TAKEN BY BARENTZ.

nearly useless by the dilatoriness of those who had the
matter in hand. The vessels did not leave the Texel till July
2d, 1595, nor reach Nova Zembla before the middle of Au-
gust. The coasts of that island were found to be unapproaclH
able on account of the ice. In few words, they returned to
Holland, having accomplished little or nothing.

Again, in May, 1 596, Barentz sailed from Amsterdam, and

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.

on July 17th reached Nova Zembla. Arrived home in the
following year, after a voyage of many hardships and trials.

In 1 607 renewed the search for a northern route to China
and Japan. Hitherto neither the northeast nor northwest had
held out much hopes of success, and they now determined on
a bold and novel attempt at sailing over the Pole itself. For
this expedition Henry Hudson — already known as an expe-
rienced and intrepid seaman, and well skilled in nautical science
— was chosen commander. This adventurous navigator left
Gravesend on May ist in a small barque, with only ten men
and a boy. The

very name
tonnaore

and
of the
vessel have been
forgotten, but it
is known to have
been of the tiniest
description. In
the second week
of June Hudson
fell in with land —
a headland of East
Greenland — the
weather at the
time being foggy,
and the sails and
shrouds frozen.
He examined
other parts of this
coast, feeling
doubtful whether
he might not reach
round Greenland

SIR HENRY HUDSON.

open water to the northward, and sail
Later he reached Spitzbergen, where the
ice to the north utterly baffled all his efforts to force a pas-
sage, and being short of supplies he set sail for England.

Two years later, 1609, we find Hudson on a third voyage
of discovery. His movements were very erratic, 2nd the
oHly record left us does not explain them. He first doubled
the North Cape, as though again in quest of the Northeast
Passage: then turned westward to Newfoundland; thence
again south as far as Charleston, South Carolina; then north
Cape Cod. soon after whicli he discovered the beau-

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.

. ;

tiful Hudson River, at the mouth of which New York is
now situated. Hudson's fourth and last voyage is that
most intimately associated with his name on account of the
cruel tragedy which terminated his life.

Several gentlemen of influence, among them Sir John
Wolstenholme and Sir Dudley Digges, were so satisfied of
the feasibility of making the Northwest Passage, that they
fitted out a vessel at their own expense, and gave the com-
mand to Henry Hudson. The accounts of the voyage itself
are meagre. We know, however, that he discovered the
Strait and •' Mediterranean " Sea. The vessel appropriated
for this service was of fifty-five tons burden, victualled only, as

DEATH OF BEHRING.

it seems, for six months. She left the Thames on April 1 7th,
1 610, and on June 9th she was off the entrance of Fro-
bisher Strait, where Hudson was compelled to ply to the
westward on account of the ice and contrary winds. During
July and the latter part of August several islands and head-
lands were sighted and named, and at length they discovered
a great strait formed by the northwest point of Labrador,
and a cluster of islands, which led them into an extensive sea.
Here Hudson's own testimony ends.

In 1 61 6 Baffin explored the bay called after him, even
entering the mouth of Lancaster Sound. For more than
fifty years after his explorations no navigator penetrated bfe-

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.

»7

yond the spot reached by him. In 1 743 the British Parlia-
ment offered a reward of ;^20,ooo to the crew who should
effect a northwest passage through Hudson Bay, and subse-
quently the conditions were extended so as to include any
northern passage for ships, and an additional reward of ;^5,ooo
was offered to the crew that should penetrate to within one
degree of the North Pole. In 1773 Captain Phipps, after-
ward Lord Mulgrave, under instructions to reach the North
Pole, sailed along the shores of Spitzbergen to latitude 80°
48', and in 1776 Captain Cook, sailing for the polar sea by
way of Behring Strait, penetrated to latitude 70° 45'. In
1 789 Mackenzie, in a land expedition, discovered and traced
to its mouth the river called after him.

In spite of all these discoveries not a single line of the
coast from Icy Cape to Baffin Bay was traced and thor-
oughly known. The eastern and western shores of Green-
land to about 75° latitude were tolerably well defined from
the visits of whaling vessels ; Hudson Bay and Strait were
partially known ; but Baffin Bay, according to the statement
of the discoverer, was bounded by land on the west, running
parallel with the 90th meridian, and across what is now known
as Barrow's Strait.

As early as the year 1527 the idea of a passage to the East
Indies by the North Pole was suggested by a Bristol mer-
chant to Henry VIII. of England, but no voyage seems to
have been undertaken for the purpose of navigating the
Arctic Seas till the commencement of the following century,
when an expedition was fitted out at the expense of several
merchants of London. This attempt was succeeded by others
at different periods, and all of them were projected and car-
ried out by private individuals. While the adventurers did
not reach India by a nearer route than doubling the Cape of
Good Hope, they evinced a fortitude, perseverance, and skill
which deserve the admiration of the civilized world.

At length, after the lapse of above a century and a half,
this interesting question became an object of royal patronage,
and the expedition which was commanded by Captain Phipps
was fitted out at the expense of the governftient. Captain
Phipps, however, found it impossible to penetrate the wall of
ice which extended for many degrees between the latitude of
80° and 81° to the north of Spitzbergen. His vessels were
the Racehorse and Carcass: Captain Lutwidge being his

(i8)

TNTHODUCTORY RKMARKS.

second in command, in tlu; latter vessel, and having with him,
then a mere boy, Nelson, th(^ future hero of England.

From the year 1 648, when the famous Russian navigator,
Deshnew, penetrated from the river Kolyma through the
Polar into the Pacific Ocean, the Russians have been as ar-
duous in their attempts to discover a northeast passage to the
north of Cape Shelatskoi, as the English have been to sail to
the northwest of the American continent, through Baffin
Bay and Lancaster Sound. On the side of the Pacific many
efforts have, within the last century, been made to further this
object. In 1741 the celebrated Captain Behring discovered
the straits which bea. his name. From the period when
Deshnew sailed on his expedition to the year 1 764, when
Admiral Tchitschagofif, an indefatigable and active officer, en-
deavored to force a passage round Spitzbergen, and thence
to the present times, including the arduous eftbrts of Captain
Billings and Vancouver, and the more recent one of M. Von
Wrangell, the Russians have been untiring in their attempts
to discover a passage eastward to the north of Cape Taimur
and Cape Shelatskoi. And certainly, if skill, perseverance,
and courage could have opened this passage, it would have
been accomplished.

An expedition was despatched under the command of Sir
John Ross in order to explore the scene of the former labors
of Frobisher and Baffin. Still haunted with the golden
dreams of a northwest passage, which Barrington and
Beaufoy had in the last age so enthusiastically advocated, our
nautical adventurers by no means relinquished the long-cher-
ished chimera.

A thorough knowledge of the relative boundaries of land
and ocean on our globe has in all ages and by all countries
been considered one of the most important features of pop-
ular information. But to no country is this knowledge of
such practical utility and such importance as to a maritime
nation like Great Britain, whose merchant marine visits every
port which is dependent upon distant quarters for the greater
part of her necessary supplies, whether of food or of luxuries,
which her population consume, and which her arts and manu-
factures require.

11
i

CHAPTER II.

ARCTIC EXPEDITIONS OF THE NINETEENTH CENTURY.

Sir John Ross — Captain Parry — Sir John Franklin — Russian Expeditions under Von
Wrangell and Anjou — Captain Ik-echey — Captain Ross fixes the Position of the true Mag-
netic Pole — Back and Dr. King — Dcase and Simpson — Dr. Rae finishes the Geographical
Exploration of the North Coast of the American Continent — Sir John Franklin's last
Expedition — Numerous Expeditions sent out in Search of him — Captain McClintock finds
Proof of Franklin's Death — Commander Inglewood's Expedition — Sir John Franklin the
Discoverer of the Northwestern Passage.

In the year 1818 two vessels were fitted out by the British
government to proceed toward the North Pole. Captain Sir
John Ross and Lieutenant Parry were appointed command-
ers. No former expedition had been fitted out on so
extensive a scale, or so completely equipped in every respect
as this one. The circumstance which stimulated the send-
ing out of these vessels was the open character of the bays
and seas in those regions, very large quantities of the polar
ice having floated down into the Atlantic for the previous
three years. This expedition had instructions to discover the
northwest passage. Another, under Captain Beechey and
Lieutenant Franklin, afterward Sir John Franklin, was to
penetrate to the North Pole. The objects of the latter expe-
dition were entirely scientific. It passed north between
Greenland and Spitzbergen, but did not go farther than lati-
tude 80° 34'. Captain Ross sailed about sixty miles up
Lancaster Sound, and returned with the report that it was a
bay, through which there was no outlet to the ocean beyond.
A year later another expedition under Lieutenant Parry
passed through Lancaster and Melville Sounds beyond the
iioth meridian, wintered at Melville Island, and returned to
Great Britain the next summer. From York Factory an over-
land expedition under Lieutenant Franklin was sent out the
same year, witii instructions to explore the north coast of
America, from the mouth of the Coppermine River eastward.
He proceeded 550 miles east of the Coppermine to Point
Turn-again, and then, having suffered great hardships, re-
(20)

AKCTIC LXl'KDITIONS (F MNKIKKNTIi CKNTURY.

turned to York I'actory in 1822 without accomplishing; the
object.

Franklin, in descending; the Coppermine River, was accom-
j)anied by as heroic a s(;t of officers and men as ever trod a
deck; among the former were Dr. Richardson, Lieutenant
Back and lieutenant Hood, and among the latter a faithful

LIEUTENANT BACK'S START— A JOURNEY OF 500 MILES FOR FOOD.

seaman named Hepburn. The Coppermine River had never
been thoroughly explored, and the rjnterprlse was one of great
danorer. Ascending the Hayes River on their inland route to
the Coppermine, they accomplished 700 miles of river jour-
ney, over rapids and falls and obstacles and difficulties innu-
merable. From the 9th of September to the end of October

AKCTIC KXl'l.OKATlONS.

'•i

they were engaged in this task, and then the setting in of th'^
ice compelled them to reHnquish their labors in that direction
for the present. Franklin, however, was not idle — it was not
in the nature of the man to be so — and therefore he. Back
and Hepburn started otf in January westward, working up
S50 miles, until in March they reached Fort Chipcwjan, where
many important observations were made. In July he was
joined by Richardson and Hood, and hoped to winter that
year at the mouth of the Coppermine. A large party was
made up, consisting of Franklin and his friends, seventeen
French-Canadian voyageurs, three interpreters, and a con-
siderable number of Indians who were to act as guides and
hunters under the leadership of one Akaitcho. The start was
all that could be desired, game plentiful, and everything prom-
ised well. But as they advanced to the north a change came
over the spirit of their dream , tood grew scarce, the diffi-
culty of transit increased, and at last Akaitcho declared that
to advance farther meant for the whole party to perish miser-
ably. Franklin persisted, however, and would have braved
all the prophesied risks, till Akaitcho said : " I will send some
of my young men with you if you persist in going forward,
but from the moment they set foot in your canoes I and my
relatives shall mourn for them as dead." Discretion being
the better part of valor, Franklin reluctantly determined to
settle in winter quarters and continue the exploration in the
summer. The place chosen for wintering was at Fort Enter-
prise, near the head of the Coppermme, and between 500
and 600 miles from Fort Chipewyan, the distance traversed
by the gallant company in the course of the year 1820 having
been 1,520 miles.

During the winter food grew scarcer and scarcer, until at
last starvation was threatened. In addition to their own
party, the Indians had to be provided for, and this greatly im-
poverished their resources. The Indians knew this, and, with
a generosity which Christian men might sometimes imitate,
gave their own food to the strangers who seemed more to
need it. " We a'-e used to starvation, you are not," they said.
Hy-and-by a time came when the situation was gloomy in the
extreme, ammunition and other articles, indispensable to the
progress of the expedition, and footl were fast failing. What
was to be done ? There was only one course open, and that
was to journey on foot a distance of over 500 miles to Fort

ARCTIC EXPEDITIONS OK MNElKKMll CliMURY.

aid.
the
the
^lat
that
•"ort

Chipewyan, in the depth of an Arctic winter, for supplies. A
volunteer was soon found. Lieutenant Back was not a man
to allow his comrades to perish while he had strength and
vigor to save them, and he undertook to perform the journey

DR. RICHARDSON, UK SIR JOHN FRANKLIN'S KXrKDITlON,
HIS COMPANION HEIHURN.

SAVING

and obtain the needful supplies. Day after day he and his
companions toiled on over ice and snow, and night after
night braved the inclemency of the weather by camping out
of doors. With snow-shoes o-allinqf their feet and ankles till

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

'til

they bled profusely ; with only sufficient food to keep them
from starving, and, therefore, rendering them all the more
susceptible to cold ; with weather unusual in the severe re-
gion for its severity, on they went, until at last they reached
the station, procured four sledges, laden to the full with need-
ful things, and the promise of more to follow, and then, after
a brief rest, set off again for Fort Enterprise.

During the journey Back travelled 1,104 miles, and when
he rejoined his companions it was to find that his unprece-
dented journey was a success in every respect, for they had
arrived at a stage in their experience when the aid he brought
was indispensable.

In 1820 twenty-three Russian sledge expeditions were
made by Von Wrangell and Anjou, who penetrated to lati-
tude 70° 51' and longitude 157° 25' west, and reported an
open sea in the distant north, which precluded further opera-
tions with sledges. In 1821 Captain Parry started on another
expedition, and after proceeding through Hudson Strait and
Fox Channel as far as Hekla and Fury Strait, returned in
1823. Two years later Franklin descended the Mackenzie
River to the sea, and traced the coast for 374 miles. His
voyage excended over 2,000 miles. About the same time
Captain Beechey had sailed around Cape Horn, and through
Behring Strait into Kotzebuc ^ound, but failed to meet Frank-
lin. Captain Barry, in 1827, set out for the North Pole with
sledge boats, which had been landed upon the northern shore
of Spitzbergen, but soon returned, after reaching latitude 82°
45'. An expedition was fitted out in 1829 by Sir Felix Booth,
and set out under the command of Captain Ross and Com-
mander (afterward Sir James) Ross, in search of a north-
western passage by some opening leading out of Prince
Regent Inlet. In 1831, while on a sledging expedition.
Captain Ross for the first time reached and fixed the position
of the true magnetic pole, in latitude 70° 5' 17" and longi-
tude 96° 46' 45". After many hardships, Captain Ross re-
turned in the autumn of 1833. In the meantime. Back and
Dr. King had set out on an overland expedition in search of
Captain Ross and his party. They navigated the great Fish
(Fhleivee-choh) River, afterward called Back River, reached
the ocean at latitude 67° 11', longitude 94° 30', and after
pushing forward to latitude 68° 13', returned. The Hudson
Bay Company then sent out Dease and Simpson, who

K hQllIDCB .*•

RICHARDSON'S ADVENTURE WITH WOLVES.

ARCTIC EXPEDITIONS OF NIMETEENTH CENTURY.

descended the Mackenzie River to the sea, and then followed
the coast to the west as far as Point Barrow. They dis-
covered two large rivers, which they called Garry and Col-
ville. The^ remained during the winter on Great Bear Lake,
and in June, 1838, started on another expedition to the east-
ward. They reached the coast by way of the Coppermine,

BACK AND HIS ATTENDANTS REJOINING HIS FRIENDS.

and findinsf their progress stopped by the ice, a portion of the
party set out on an overland expedition in an easterly direc-
tion. Passing Franklin's Turn-again, they discovered the
Dease Strait, and at its eastern extremity a large headland.
To the north they saw an extensive land, which they called
Victoria Land. The sea beyond was entirely free of ice. In

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

1839 th^y sailed through Dease Strait, and reached the spot
which had been visited by Back five years previous. The
entire American coast Hne had now been explored, except
that portion lying between Dease and Simpson's extreme
point on the west and Felix Harbor on the east, and that por-
tion lying between Felix Harbor and that point reached by
Parry in 1822, at the entrance of the Strait of Hekla and
Fury.

To settle the question whether it was possible to pass with
ships between Bothnia and the American mainland, the Hud-
son Bay Company, in 1846, sent out Dr. John Rae, who
proved that there is no outlet toward the west through Prince
Regent Inlet. Dr. Rae explored Committee Bay, and reached
a point from which he saw a headland, which he called Cape
EUice, within ten miles of Fury and Hekla Strait. Thus was
finished, with the exception of luiry and Hekla Strait, a geo-
graphical exploration of the north coast of the American
continent on May 27th, 1847.

Sir John Franklin, with the Erebus and Terror, each
fitted out with a small steam-engine and a screw-propeller,
and the two carrying 129 men and provisions for three years,
in May, 1845, sailed on his last expedition to discover the
northwestern passage. His instructions were to pass through
Baffin Bay and Lancaster Sound, then west in about latitude
74° 15' to about longitude 98°, thence to penetrate south and
west toward Behring Strait. The vessels were last seen
about the centre of Baffin Bay.

The Terror is the vessel in which Captain Sir G. Back
made his perilous attempt to reach Repulse Bay, in 1836.

The Erebus and Terror were not expected home, un-
less success had early rewarded their efforts, or some casualty
hastened their return, before the close of 1847, "O"" were any
tidings anticipated from them in the interval ; but when the
autumn of 1847 arrived without any intelligence of the ships,
the attention of the British Government was directed to the
necessity of searching for and conveying relief to them in
case of their being imprisoned in the ice or wrecked, and in
want of provisions and means of transport.

For this purpose a searching expedition in three divisions
was fitted out by the government in the early part of 1848.
The investigation was directed to three different quarters si-
multaneously, viz.: I. To that by which, in case of success,

ARC lie KXI'KDlTroNS OK NINIiTEENTH CENTUKY.

the ships would come out of the Polar Soa to the westward,
or Behring Strait, This consisted of a sinjj^le ship, the
Plover, commanded by Captain Moore, which left En inland
in the latter end of January for the purpose of enierinj^
Hehrincr Strait. It was intended that she should arrive? there

SIR je iN 1 KAN'K1,IN

in the month of July, and havin^^ looked out for a winter har-
bor she might send out her boats northward and eastward, in
which directions the discovery ships, if successful, would be
met with. The Plover, however, in her first season, never

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

even approached the place of her destination, owing to her
setting off too late, and to her bad sailing properties.

The second division of the expedition was one of boats, to
explore the coast of the Arctic Sea between the Mackenzie

I m

THE EREBUS AND TERROR WINTERING AT THE HEAD OF
WELLINGTON CHANNEL.

and Coppermine rivers, or from the 135th to the 11 5th degree
of west longitude, together with the south coast of Wollaston
Land, it being supposed that if Sir John Franklin's party had

ARCTIC EXPEDITIONS OF NINETEENTH CENTURY.

been compelled to leave the ships and take to the boats they
would make for this coast, whence they could reach the Hud-
son Bay Company's posts. This party \\*as placed under the
command of the faithful friend of Franklin and the companion
of his former travels, Dr. Sir John Richardson, who landed at
New York in April, 1848, and hastened to join his men and
boats, which were already in advance toward the Arctic shore.
He was, however, unsuccessful in his search.

The remaining and most important portion of this search-
ing expedition consisted of two ships under the command of
Sir James Ross, which sailed in May, 1848, for the locality in
which Franklin's ships entered on this course of discovery,
viz., the eastern side of Davis Strait. These did not, how-
ever, succeed, owing to the state of the ice on getting into
Lancaster Sound, until the season for operations had nearly
closed. These ships wintered in the neighborhood of Leo-
pold Island, Regent Inlet, and missing the store-ship sent out
with provisions and fuel to enable them to stop out another
year, were driven out through the strait by the pack ice,
and returned home unsuccessful. ;

The^e tnree expeditions were followed by numerous others
sent out by the British Government and by Lady Franklin.
In 1850 alone, eight expeditions were out.

In 1 85 1 Lieutenant McClintock reached, in longitude 114°
20', latitude 74° 38', the farthest western limit ever attained by
explorers starting from Baffin Bay. In 1852 Commander
Inglewood sailed up Smith Sound to latitude 78° 28' 21",
140 miles further than any previous navigators had reached,
and established the existence of a channel connecting
Baffin Bay with the great polar basin. Traces of the
Franklin expedition were found in 1850 at Cape Riley and
Beechey Island, and articles belonging to Sir John Franklin's
officers were seen in possession of the Esquimaux at Selby
Bay in 1854 by Dr. Rae, but authentic information concerning
the fate of Franklin was only obtained in 1859. An expe-
dition sent out by Lady Franklin under Captain Francis
McClintock passed in 1857 through Baffin Bay, Lancaster
Sound, and Prince Regent Inlet to Bellpt Strait, whence
sledge expeditions were made to King William Land. Here,
in 1859, were found relics of Sir John Franklin's expedition.
At Point Victory was found a tin case containing a brief
record dated May 28th, 1847, to the effect that the expedition

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

!; if

;1 .j

' ■ i

had passed the previous winter in latitude 70° 5', longitude
98° 23', and that of the previous year at Beecliey Island after
ascending the Wellington Ciiannel to latitude 77°, and retuin-
ing by the west side of Cornwallis Island. All the party

DR. RAE FINDING THE MUTILATED CORPSE OF ONE OF
• SIR JOHN FRANKLIN'S MEN.

were then well. On the margin was another record dated
April 25th, 1848, to the effect that 105 men under Captain
Crosier had abandoned the two vessels on April 2 2d, five

ARCTIC EXPEDITIONS OF NINETEENTH CENTURY.

leagues N. N. W., and had landed at that place, latitude 69**-
37' 42", lonjritude 98° 4' 15"; that Sir John Franklin had died
June I lih, 184/, and that the total deaths were nine officers and
fifteen men. Quantities of clothing were found but no trace
of the vessels. It was evident that the whole expedition iiad
perished. It seems that Sir John Franklin passed up Lancaster
Sound, explored Wellington Channel to a point farther north
than was reached by those who were sent out to search for
his party, Penny, De Haven and Belcher, sailed around
Cornwallis Island, and wintered on Beechey Island. In the
spring and summer of 1846 he either navigated Bellot Strait,
or more probably pushed through Peel Sound, and finally
reached Victoria Strait, and thus supplied the only H7ik wait-
ing to coviplete a chain of water communication between the two
oceans. Thus Sir John Franklin is the discoverer of the
Northwestern Passage. McClure, in 1850-53, had been the
first to pass from Behring Strait to Baffin Bay.

It would be ungenerous in telling the story of some of the
searches for Sir John Franklin to overlook the services ren-
dered by Lieutenant Bellot, the representative of France.
Bellot, "'"'" .''c of humble origin, rose to position by his own
perseverance and industry. On his first expedition, in the
Prince Albert, his conduct was such that he was received in
England with enthusiasm; the Bridsh government made
known to France how well satisfied it was with the zealous
and intelligent co-operation of the young officer.

His second expedition was in the Phcenix. Arriving in
the Polar regions, it was important that certain despatches
should be conveyed to Sir Edward Belcher without delay, and
Bellot, who knew that their transmission was one of the
special and urgent objects of the mission of the Phoenix and
that it was necessary they should be promptly delivered, him-
self volunteered to carry them, and with foyr men, a sledge
and an india-rubber canoe started off. Bellot talked to his
men of the danger of their position. He went forth to see
how the ice was driving, and in a few minutes afterwards one
of his men followed him. The wind was blowing with a ter-
rific fury. Bellot was not to be seen. His name was
shouted, but no answer came. On the opposite side of a
crack about five fathoms wide was his stick.

And that was all ! There could be no doubt that when he
went forward to see how the ice was driving the wind carried

ARCTIC MXl'LOKATIONS.

.him off his feet and he slipped into the crack, from which he
never arose a^ain. Never was a young hero mourned more
deeply than he. All France mourned him, and England

LIEUTENANT J. BELLOT.

mourned him, and even the Esquimaux, when they heard of
his death, cried out with bitter weeping: "Poor BellotI
poorBellot!"

chaptp:r III.

THE FIRST AMERICAN ARCTIC EXPEDITIONS.

The first Grinnell Expedition under command of Lieutenant De Haven — After wintering
near Beechey Island it returns safely to New Yoric — Traces of Sir John Frankhn's Ex-
pedition found — An Arctic Winter and its Horrors — Scurvy — The Expedition of Com-
mander Inglefield, of the British Navy — He reaches Latitude 78° 28' 21''', al)out 140
miles farther north than had been previously attained — Lieutenant Osborn's Expedition.

In 1850 an expedition was sent out by Mr. Henry Grinnell,
a merchant of New York, in search of Sir John Franklin and
his companions. Mr. Grinnell's expedition consisted of only
two small brigs, the Advance of one hundred and forty
tons, the Rescue of only ninety tons. The former had
been engaged in the Havana trade, the latter was a new
vessel built for the merchant service. Both were strength-
ened for the Arct* ■: voyage at a heavy cost. The command
was given to Lieutenant E. De Haven, a young naval officer,
who accompanied the United States exploring expedition.
The result has proved thajt a better choice could not have
been made. His officers consisted of Mr. Murdoch, sailing-
master; Dr. E. K. Kane, surgeon and naturalist; and Mr.
Lovell, midshipman. The Advance had a crew of twelve
men when she sailed ; two of them complaining of sickness,
and expressing a desire to return home, were left at the Dan-
ish settlement at Disco Island, on the coast of Greenland.

The expedition left New York on the 23d of May, 1850,
and was absent a little more than sixteen months. They
passed the eastern extremity of Newfoundland ten days after
leaving Sandy Hook, and then sailed E. N. E., directly for
Cape Comfort, on the coast of Greenland. The .weather was
generally fine, and only a single accident occurred on the
voyage to that country of frost and snow. Off the coast of
Labrador they met an iceberg making its way toward the
tropics. The night was very dark, and as the huge voyager
had no " light out," the Advance could not be censured for
running foul. She was punished, however, by the loss of her

3 (33)

ih."

••rrt

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

jib-boom, as she ran against the iceberg at the rate of seven
or eight knots an hour.

The voyagers sailed along the southwest coast of Green-
land, sor'etimes in the midst of broad acres of broken ice,
as far as Whale Island.

From Whale Island a boat, with two officers and four sea-
men, was sent to Disco Island, a distance of about twenty-six
miles, to a Danish settlement there, to procure skin clothing
and other articles necessary for use during the rigors of a
polar winter.

When the expedition reached Melville Bay, which, on ac-
count of its fearful character, is also called the Devil's Nip,
the voyagers began to witness more of the grandeur and
perils of Arctic scenes. Icebergs of all dimensions came
bearing down from the polar seas. They also encountered
immense floes, with only narrow channels between, and at
times their situation was exceedingly perilous. On one occa-
sion, after heaving through fields of ice for five consecutive
weeks, two immense floes, between which they were making
their way, gradually approached each other, and for several
hours they expected their vessels would be crushed. An im-
mense cake of ice, six or eight feet thick, slid under the
Rescue, lifting her almost " high and dry," and careening
her partially upon her beam ends. By means of ice-anchors
(large iron hooks) they kept her from capsizing. In this po-
sition they remained about sixty hours, when, with saws and
axes, they succeeded in relieving her. The ice now opened
a litde, and they finally warped through into clear water.
While they were thus confined, polar bears came around them
in abundance, greedy for prey, and the seamen indulged a
little in the perilous sports of the chase.

The open sea continued but a short time, when they again
became entangled :imong bergs, floes and hummocks, and en-
countered the most fearful perils. Sometimes they anchored
their vessels to icebergs and sometimes to floes, or masses of
hummock. It was in this fearful region that they first encoun-
tered pack-ice, and there they were locked in from the 7th to
the 23d of July. During that time they were joined L/y the
yacht Prince Albert, commanded by Captain Forsyth, of the
British Navy, and together the three vessels were anchored
for a while to an immense piece of ice, in sight of the Devil's
Thumb. That high, rocky peak, situated in latitude 74**^

HkSl AMKKUAN ARl TIC KXI'KI )rn().\S.

22', was about thirty miles distant, and, with the dark hills
adjacent, presented a strange aspect wi.ere all was white
and (ditterinor. From the Devil's Thumb the American ves-
sels passed onward throuo^h the pack toward Sabine Island,

I HE AUVANCK AND TMK KKSCUE IN A "LKAD" OV ICE.

while the Prince Albert essayed to make a more westerly

course. They reached Cape York in the ben^innino- of Aucrust.

At Cape Dudley Digges they were charmed by th.e sight of

the Crimson Cliffs, spoken of by Captain Parry and other

( t

ARf:iIC KXI'LOKATIUNS.

Arctic navio^ators. These are lofty cliffs of dark brown stone
covered with snow of a rich crimson color. This was the
most northern point to which the expedition penetrated. The
whole coast which they had passed from Disco to this cape is
high, ruoged and barren, only some of the low points, stretch-
ing into the sea, bearing a species of dwarf fir. Northeast
from the cape rise the Arctic Highlands to an unknown alti-
tude ; and stretching away northward is the unexplored Smith's
Sound, filled with impenetrable ice.

From Cape Dudley Digges, the Advance and Rescue made
Wolstenholme Sound, and then changing their course to the
southwest, emerged from the fields into the open waters of
Lancaster Sound. Here, on the 1 8th of August, they encoun-
tered a tremendous gale, which lasted about twenty-four hours.
The two vessels parted company during the storm and re-
mained separate several days. Across Lancaster Sound the
Advance made her way to Barrow's Straits, and on the 2 2d
discovered the Prince Albert on the southern shore of the
straits, near Leopold Island, a mass of lofty, precipitous rocks,
dark and barren, and hooded and draped with snow.

The two vessels remained together a day or two, when they
parted company, the Prince Albert to return home and the
Advance to make further explorations. It was off Leopold
Island, on the 2 2d of August, that the "mad Yankee" took
the lead through the vast masses of floating ice.

From Leopold Island the Advance proceeded to the north-
west, and on the 25 th reached Cape Riley, another amorphous
mass, not so regular and precipitate as Leopold Island, but
more lofty. Here a strong tide, setting in to the shore, drifted
the Advance toward the beach, where she stranded. Around
her were small bergs and large masses of floating ice, all under
the influence of the strong current. It was about two o'clock
in the afternoon when she struck. By diligent labor in remov-
ing everything from her deck to a small floe, she was so light-
ened that at four o'clock the next morning she floated, and
s^on everything was properly replaced.

Near Cape Riley the Americans fell in with a portion of an
English expedition, and there also the Rescue, left behind in
the gale in Lancaster Sound, overtook the Advance. There
was Captain Penny with the Sophia and Lady Franklin ; the
veteran Sir John Ross with the Felix, and Commodore Austin
with the Resolute steamer. Together the navigators of both

FIRST AMERICAN ARCTIC EXPEDITIONS.

nations explored the coast at and near Cape Riley, and on the
27th they saw in a cove on the shore of Beechey Island, or
Beechey Cape, on the east side of the entrance to Wellington
Channel, unmistjakable evidence that Sir John Franklin and
his companions were there in April, 1846. There they found
many articles known to belong to the British Navy, and some
that were the property of the Erebus and Terror, the ships
under the command of Sir John. There lay, bleached to the
whiteness of the surrounding snow, a piece of canvas with the
name of the Terror marked upon it with indestructible charcoal.
It was very faint, yet perfectly legible. Near it was a guide-board
lying flat upon its face, having been prostrated by the wind.
It had evidently been used to direct exploring parties to the
vessels, or, rather, to the encampment on shore. The board
was pine, thirteen inches in length and six and a half in breadth,
and nailed to a boarding pike eight feet in length. It is sup-
posed that the sudden opening of the ice caused Sir John to
depart hastily, and in so doing this pike and its board were
left behind. They also found a large number of tin canisters,
such as are used for packing meats for a sea-voyage; an anvil
block; remnants of clothing, which evinced by numerous
patches and their threadbare character that they had been
worn as long as the owners could keep them on; the remains
of an India-rubber glove, lined with wool; some old sacks; a
cask, or tub, partly filled with charcoal, and an unfinished rope-
mat, which, like other fibrous fabrics, was bleached white.

But the most melancholy traces of the navigators were three
jjfraves in a little sheltered cove, each with a board at the hedd
hearing the name of the sleeper below. These inscriptions
AJStify positively when Sir John and his companions were
there. The board at the head of the grave on the left has
the following inscription:

"Sacred to the memory of John Torrington, who departed
this life January ist, a. d. 1846, on board her Majesty's ship
Terror, aged 20 years."

On the centre one — "Sacrec to the memory of John Hart-
NELL, A. B., of her Majesty's ship Erebus; died January 4th,
1846, aged 25 years. 'Thus.saith the Lord of Hosts, Con-
sider your ways;' Haggai, chap, i., 5, 7."

On the right — " Sacred to the memory of W. Braine, R. M.,
of her Majesty's ship Erebus, who died April 3d, 1846, aged
32 years. * Choose you this day whom you will serve ; ' Joshua,
chap. xxiv.. part of the i c;th verse."

AUCl'lC EXPLORATIONS.

How much later than April 3d Sir John remained at Beechey
cannot be determined. They saw evidences of his having
ofone northward, for sledee tracks in that direction were visible.

Leaving Beechey Cape, the expedition lorced its way
through the ice to Barrow's Inlet, where they narrowly escaped
being frozen in for the winter. They endeavored to enter
the inlet, for the purpose of making it their winter quarters,
but were prevented by the mass of pack-ice at its entrance.
It was on the 4th of September, 1850, when they arrived
there, and after remainini^- seven or eight days, they aban-
doned the attempt to enter. On the right and left are seen
the dark rocks at the entrance of the inlet, and in the centre
of the frozen waters and the range of hills beyond. There
was much smooth ice within the inlet, and while the vessels
lay anchored to the " field," officers and crew exercised and
amused themselves by skating. On the left of the inlet (in-
dicated by the dark conical object), they discovered a cairn
(a heap of stones with a cavity), eight or ten (eit in height,
which was erected by Captain Ommaney of the English expe-
dition then in the polar waters. Within it he had placed two
letters, for "Whom it might concern." Commander De
Haven also deposited a letter there. The rocks, here, pre-
sented vast fissures made by the frost ; and at the foot of the
cliff on the right, that pow^erful agent had cast down vast
heaps of debris.

From Barlow's Inlet, our expedition moved slowly west-
ward, battling with the ice every rood of the way, until they
reached Griffin's Island, at about 96° w^est longitude from
Greenwich. This was attained on the nth, and was the
extreme westing made by the expedition. All beyond seemed
impenetrable ice ; and, despairing of making^any further dis-
coveries before the winter should set in, they resolved to
return home. Turning eastward, they hoped to reach Davis'
Strait by the southern route, before the cold and darkness
came on ; but tliey were doomed to disappointment. Near
the entrance to Wellington Channel they became completely
locked in by hummock-ice, and soon found themselves drifting
with an irresistible tide up that channel toward the pole.

The summer day was drawing to a close ; the diurnal visits
of the pale sun were rapidly shortening, and soon the long
polar night, with all its darkness and horrors, would fall upon
them. Slowly they drifted in those vast fields of ice, whither,

FIRST AMERICAN ARCTIC KXPEDITIONS.

or to what result, they knew not. Locked in the moving yet
compact mass; liable at every moment to be crushed; far
away from land ; the mercury sinking daily lower and lower
from the zero figure, toward the point where that metal
freezes, they felt small hope of ever reaching home again.
Vcc they prepared for winter comforts and winter sports, as
cheerfully as if lying safe in Barlow's Inlet As the winter

LADY FRANKLIN.

advanced, the crews of both the vessels went on board the
larger one. They unshipped the rudders of each, to prevent
their being injured by the ice, covered the deck of the Ad-
vance with felt, prepared their stores, and made arrangements
for enduring the long winter now upon them. Physical and
mental activity being necessary for the preservation of health,

ARCriC EXPLORATIONS.

they daily exercised in the open air for several hours. They
built ice huts, hunted the huge white bears and the little polar
foxes, and when the darkness of the winter night had spread
over them they arranged indoor amusements and employ-
ments.

Before the end of October, the sun made its appearance for
the last time, and the awful polar night closed in. Early
in November they wholly abandoned the Rescue, and both
crews made the Advance their permanent winter home.
The cold soon became intense; the mercury congealed, and
the spirit thermometer indicated 46° below zero. Its average
range was 30° to 35°. They had drifted helplessly up Wel-
lington Channel, almost to the latitude from whence Captain
Penny saw an open sea. All this while the in«mense fields
of hummock-ice were moving, and the vessels w^ere in hourly
danger of being crushed and destroyed. At length, while
driftinof through Barrow's Straits, the cons^ealed mass, as if
crushed together by the opposite shores, became more com-
pact, and the Advance was elevated almost seven feet by
the stern, and keeled two feet eight inches starboard. In tliis
position she remained, with very little alteration, for five con-
secutive months ; for, soon after entering Baffin Bay in the
midst of the winter, the ice became frozen .in one immense
tract, covering millions of acres. Thus frozen in, sometimes
more than a hundred miles from land, they drifted slowly
along the southwest coast of Baffin Bay, a distance of more
than a thousand miles from Wellington Channel. For eleven
weeks that dreary night continued, and during that time the
disc of the sun was never seen above the horizon. Yet
nature was not wholly forbidding in aspect. Sometimes the
Aurora Borealis would flash up still farther northward; and
sometimes Aurora Parhelia — mock suns and mock mo6ns —
would appear in varied beauty in the starry sky. Brilliant^
too, were the northern constellations ; and when the moon
was at its full, it made its stately circuit in the heavens, with-
out descending below the horizon, and lighted up the vast
piles of ice with a pale lustre, almost as great as the morning
twilisjhts of more genial skies.

Around the vessels the crews built a wall of ice ; and in
ice huts the> stowed away their cordage and stores, to make
room for exercise on the decks. They organized a theatrical
company, and amused themselves and the officers with comedy

" ■- ■ -*-

"^tff^xi

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i^c/iSO h-tlLi^ t^AMn^at L'-ZtJry^^ /tO vsc;;^

^If^ UJ^/uuMci^

C/iA'%>,A>t0t..ab^^

ti I

^rp I Whoever finds Ihis paper is
V^^ of the Admiralty, London, wif/i

requcslcd to forward it lotho Secretary
ally, London, wxlh a noic of the ttine and place at whtcli il
was found, or, if moro convenient, lo deliver It fur that purpose to the
British Consul al the nearesl Port.

QuicoNOfcE Irouvera cc papipr est fid d'y mariner le temps et le lieu
oil il I'aura trouv6, el Jo lo f&ire parvenir au plus tol au secretaire de I'A
miraut^ brilanniqiio h Londrcs,

CuALQUiERA quo liallarQ csle Papel, so Ic suplica doenviarlo al Socrc-
lario del Almiranlazgo> en LendriSa, con una nola del tiempo y dol lugar
en dondo se kalld.

Fen iederdiodilPapirr mogl vlndco, wordl hiermede verogt, om het
zclvc, ten spoedigste, to willen zcnden aan den Heer Minister van do
Marine der Nederlanden in 's Gravenhago, of wcl aan den Secretaris den
Britsche Admiraliteit, te London, en daar by le vocgeh eene Notn, in-
houdende de lyd on de plaats alwaar dit Papier is gevonden geworden.

FiHDEncN af dello Papiir cmliedes, naar Lellighed gives, at sende sara-
tne til Admiralitels Secretairen i London, eiler nocrmeste Embedsmand i
Danmark, T^orge, eller Sverrig. Tiden og Slocdit hvor delto er fundot
dnskes venskabeligt paategnet.

Wer dlesen 2etlel (indet, wird hier-durch ersucht denselben an den
Secretair des Admiralilets in London elnzusenden, mit,gefa^ligC^ a/i-
gabo an welchon ort und zu welchcr. zeit er gefundct worden tst.

Ett§nr^f-|Jri,fl^,S^

'to. (fl:Aj (!\^

v«

FACSIMILE OF RECORD FOUND BY LIEUT. HOBSON.

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FIRST AMERICAN ARCTIC EXPEDITIONS.

well performed. Behind the pieces of hummock each actor
learned his part, and by means of calico they transformed
themselves into female characters, as occasion required.
These dramas were acted on the deck of the Advance,
sometimes while the thermometer indicated 30° below zero,
and actors and audiences highly enjoyed the fun. They also
went in parties during that long night, fully armed, to hunt
the polar bear, the grim monarch of the frozen north, on
which occasions they often encountered perilous adventures.
They played at foot-ball, and exercised themselves in drawing
sledges, heavily laden with provisions. Five hours of each
twenty-four they thus exei*cised in the open air, and once a
week each man washed his whole body in cold snow-water.
Serious sickness was consequently avoided, and the scurvy,
which attacked them, soon yielded to remedies.

Often during that fearful night they expected the disaster
of having their vessels crushed. All through November and
December, before the ice became fast, they slept in their
clothes, with knapsacks on their backs, and sledges upon the
ice, laden with stores, not knowing at what moment the ves-
sels might be demolished, and themselves forced to leave
them, and make their way toward land. On the 8th of
December and the 23d of January, they actually lowered their
boats and stood upon the ice, for the crushing masses were
making the timbers of the gallant vessel creak and its decks
to rise in the centre. They were then ninety miles from land,
and hope hardly whispered an encouraging idea of life being
sustained. On the latter occasion, when officers and crew
stood upon the ice, with the ropes of their provision sledges
in their hands, a terrible snow-drift came from the northeast,
and intense darkness shrouded them. Had the vessel then
been crushed, all must have perished.

Early in February the northern horizon began to be
streaked with gorgeous twilight, the herald of the approach-
ing king of day ; and on the i8th the disc of the sun first ap-
peared above the horizon. As its golden rim rose above the
glittering snow-drifts and piles of ice, three hearty cheers
went up from those hardy mariners. Day after day it rose
higher and higher, and while the pallid faces of the voyagers,
bleached during that long night, darkened by its beams, the
vast masses of ice began to yield to its fervid influence. The
scurvy disappeared, and from that time untii their arrival

4»

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

home not a man suffered from sickness. As they slowly
drifted through Davis' Straits, and the ice gave indications of
breaking u;\ the voyagers made preparations for saiHng.
The Rescue was reoccupied (May 13th, 1851), and her
stone-post, which had been broken by the ice in Harrow's
Straits, was repaired. To accompHsh this they were obHged
to dig away the ice, which was from twelve to fourteen feet
thick around her. They reshipped their rudders, removed
the felt covering, placed their stores on deck, and then pa-
tiently awaited the disruption of the ice. This event was
very sudden and appalling. It began to give way on the 5th
of June, and in the space of twenty minutes the whole mass,
as far as the eye could reach, became one vast field of moving
floes. On the loth of June they emerged into open water, a
litde south of the Arctic Circle, in latitude 65° 30'. They
immediately repaired to Godhaven, on the coast of Green-
land, where they refitted, and, unappalled by the perils through
which they had just passed, they once more turned their
prows northward to encounter anew the ice squadrons of
Baffin Bay. Again they traversed the coast of Greenland
to about the 73d degree, when they bore to the westward,
and on the 7th and 8th of July passed the English whaling
fleet near the Dutch Islands. Onward they pressed through
the accumulating ice to Baffin Island, where, on the nth,
they were joined by the Prince Albert, then out upon
another cruise. They continued in company until the 3d of
August, when the Albert departed for the westward, de-
termined to try the more southern passage. Here again the
expedition encountered vast fields of hummock-ice, and were
subjected to the most imminent perils. The floating ice, as
if moved by adverse currents, tumbled in huge masses, and
reared upon the sides of the sturdy little vessels like monsters
of the deep intent upon destruction. These masses broke in
the bulwarks, and sometimes fell over upon the decks with
terrible force, like rocks rolled over a plain by mountain tor-
rents. The noise was fearful ; so deafening that the mariners
could scarcely hear each other's voices. The sounds of these
rolling masses, together with the rending of the icebergs
floating near, and the vast floes, produced a din like the dis-
charge of a thousand pieces of ordnance upon a field of
batde.

Finding the north and west closed against further progress

FIRST AMERICAN ARCTIC EXPEDITIONS.

by impenetrable ice, the brave De Haven was balked, and
turning his vessels homeward they came out into an open sea,
somewhat crippled, but not a plank seriously started. During
a storm off the banks of Newfoundland, a thousand miles
from New York, the vessels parted company. The Advance
arrived safely at the navy yard at Brooklyn on the 30th of
September, and the Rescue joined her there a few days
afterward. Toward the close of October the government
resigned the vessels into the hands of Mr. Grinnell to be
used in other service, but with the stipulation that they were to
be subject to the order of the Secretary of the Navy in the
spring if required for another expedition in search of Sir
John Franklin.

In 1852 Commander Inglefield set out on an expedition in
the Engiish steamer Isabel from Fair Island. On the 30th
day of July the expedition first saw the snowy mountains of
Greenland. Several Danish settlements were visited, and
then it proceeded to Smidi's Sound, the upper or nordiern
continuation of Baffin Bay. The western shore of this body
of water, which forms a part of the polar ocean, was composed
of a high range of ice-covered mountains, which were called
after the Prince of Wales. The extreme northern point of
these mountains was named Victoria Head in honor of the
British Queen. The most northern point discovered by Cap-
tain Inglefield on the eastern shore of this sea was named by
him after the Danish monarch Frederick VII. This steamer
reached latitude 78° 28' 21", about 140 miles farther north
than had been attained by any previous navigator. Not hav-
ing discovered any traces of Sir John Franklin Captain In-
glefield returned after an absence of precisely four months
from the day of starting. Another expedition in search of
Sir John Franklin started in 1850 under instructions of the
British Admiralty. It was commanded by Lieutenant Sherard
Osborn, and consisted of the steam-vessels Pioneer and In-
trepid, and returned to England in October, 1851. Other
British expeditions were commanded by Sir John Richardson
and Captain William Kennedy.

' I

CHAPTKR IV.

THE SECOND GRINNELL EXPHDITION, COMMANDED BY DR. E. K.

KANE.

Two Winters in the Arctic Region, tiie first in Latitude 78° 37', I.onjjitiule 70° 40' — A
Sledge Expedition from here inislics as far as Cape Constitution in Waslnngton I-and,
Latitude Si° 27', and finds Kennedy Channel free from Ice, abounding with Animal Life,
and opening in a great I'olar Sea — Safe Return to the United States in 1855.

Of the several expeditions sent out in 1853 the most im-
portant was that fitted out by Mr. Grinnell, of New York,.
Mr. Peabody, of London, and others, and commanded by Dr.
E. K. Kane.

Dr. Kane received his orders from the Navy Department
at Washington to conduct an expedition into the Arctic re-
gions in search of the great English navigator. The ship
Advance, in which he had formerly sailed, was placed under
his command. His party numbered seventeen picked men..
The brig sailed from the port of New York on the 30th of
May, 1853, '^^^ •" eighteen days arrived at St. John's, New-
foundland. After providing themselves at this place with an
additional stock of fresh meat, and a valuable team of Esqui-
mau dogs, they steered for the coast of Greenland.

On the 1st of July Dr. Kane entered the harbor of Fisker-
noes, one of the Danish settlements of Greenland. Some
fresh provisions were here obtained, and an Esquimau
hunter of superior skill was enlisted in the service of the
party.

Proceeding on from this point the other Danish settlements
of Greenland were successively visited — Lichtenfels, Sukker-
toppen. Proven, Upernavik, at the last of which places the
first Grinnell expedition of 1851 had rested after its winter
drift. At length they reached Yotlik, the most northern
point in Greenland inhabited by human beings. Beyond this
the coast may be regarded as having been until that period
unexplored. From Yotlik Dr. Kane steered northward to-
ward Baffin Islands, which he found then clear of ice, and

(44) .

SECOND GUINNF.LL I'.Xl'KDITION.

passing by Duck Island bore away for Wilcox Point. As he
apprpached Melville Bay he was enveloped in a thick fog,
during the prevalence of which he drifted among the icebergs.
After a hard day's work with the boats, they towed the brig
away from these unpleasant and dangerous neighbors. He
then determined to stand wect-ward and double Melville Bay
by an outside passage, unless prevented and intercepted by
the pack.

On the 5th of August they passed the Crimson Cliffs, so
called from the appearance usually presented by their snow-
clad summits. Next day they reached Hakluyt Island, which
is surmounted by a tall spire springing six hundred feet into
the heavens above the level of the water. They soon passed
Capes Alexander and Isabella, and thus entered Smith's
Sound. Having reached Litdeton Island, Dr. Kane deter-
mined to deposit here a supply of provisions and some per-
manent traces of his route, to be used in case it should be
necessary afterward to send an expk ling party to discover
the fate of his own. The life-boat was accordingly buried
here, containing a supply of pemmican, blankets, and India-
rubber cloth. They endeavored to fortify the precious de-
posit from the claws of the polar bear.

The 20th of August still found the brig and her crew navi-
gating the dangerous and ice-ladened waters of Smith's Sound.
At this date they encountered a storm of extraordinary fury,
and made one of those narrow escapes from destruction
which sometimes give an air more of romance than of reality
to the adventures of Arctic explorers. In a terrific gale their
three hawsers were broken, and the brig drifted with fearful
rapidity under the furious pressure of the storm. The navi-
gators continued their northern route by tracking along the
ice-belt which hugs the frozen shore. On the 23d of August
they had reached 78° 41' north latitude. This placed them
farther north than any of their predecessors had been, except
Captain Parry.

From his researches in this region. Dr. Kane came to the
conclusion that this coast of Greenland faced to the north.
His longitude here was 78° 41' west. After sixteen miles
of foot journey, the company reached a great headland,
to which they gave the name of Thackeray. Eight miles far-
ther on a similar eminence attracted their attention, to which
they applied the epithet of Hawkes. The table-lands here

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1 1

'I I '

1
I

■Ji i ;■■

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

were twelve hundred feet high. The party continued their
difficult and dangerous journey until they reached some lofty-
headlands, where they determined to terminate their excursion.
These reached an altitude of eleven hundred feet, and over-
looked an expanse extending beyond the eightieth parallel
of latitude. The view from this elevation was marked by
every element of gloomy and cheerless magnificence. On

^Ki

DR. K. K. KANE.

the left, the western shore of the sound stretched away toward
the northern pole. To the right, a rugged and rolling country
appeared, which ended in the Great Humboldt Glacier. To-
ward the northeast, the projecting headland called Cape
Andrew Jackson appeared, and the vast area between was a
sea of solid ice. Farther still, a sea of icebergs presented
their rugged and unseemly bulks to the eye of the observer.
Having carefully examined the whole country as far as his

SECOND GKINNELL EXPEDITION.

crlasses would reach, Dr. Kane determined to return to the
Advance. Winter was now rapidly approaching, and it was
necessary to select some appropriate spot in which the crew
and the vessel might pass its long, gloomy and dangerous
interval. For various reasons, Dr. Kane resolved to remain
where he then was. He had arrived at the conclusion that
Rensselaer Harbor would be the most desirable winter-quar-
ters, and on the loth of September they commenced the labors
necessary to render their position tenable and safe. They
removed the contents of the hold of the vessel to a store-
house which they prepared on Butter Island. A deck-house
was built on the vessel, in which the different qualities of ven-
tilation, warmth, dryness, room and comfort were sought to
the utmost possible extent. A site for the observatory was
selected. Stones were hauled over the ice on sledges for its
erection. Its location was on a rocky inlet about a hundred
yards from the vessel, which they named Fern Rock. Prepa-
rations were also made preparatory to the work of establish-
ing provision depots on the coast of Greenland. The advan-
tage of these provision depots will appear from the fact that
by their assistance expeditions of search could afterward be
conducted with the use of sledges and dogs. The provisions
for the latter, if taken on the journeys themselves, form so
heavy a load as seriously to embarrass the movements of the
travellers. But when they were released from this labor these
dogs conveyed the sledges and their occupants on long jour-
neys successfully, and with great rapidity, on their tours of
examination.

On the 20th of September the first party organized to estab-
lish provision depots was sent out. It consisted of seven men.
A sledge thirteen feet in length, ca'ied the Faith, was filled
with pemmican, and was drawn by those attached to it by
means of track-ropes, termed rue-raddies, which were passed
around the shoulder and under the arms. The intended loca-
tion of this depot was sixty miles from the brig, on the Green-
land coast.

The life of the party which remainc^d in the vessel was not
devoid of incident and interest. By the loth of October the
party which had been sent to establish the first depot of pro-
visions had been absent twenty days, and their return was
anxiously expected. Dr. Kane at length determined to start
out in search of them. He travelled with one companion on

I '

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

a sledge drawn by four Esquimau dogs. He averaged twenty
miles per day with this singular team. On the 15th, several
hours before sunrise, he perceived on the distant and snowy
■waste a dark object which seemed to move. It proved to be
the returning depot party. They had travelled at the rate of
eighteen miles per day, and had been twenty-eight days en-
gaged in their laborious expedition. Some of their limbs had
been frozen, and they had met with other mishaps, though
none were of a very serious nature, and they had accomplished
the purpose for which they had been sent out. The greeting
which ensued on their return to the ship was hearty on both
sides. They had made the first deposit of provision at Cape
Russell. Thirty miles farther on they left about a hundred
and ten pounds of pemmican and beef, about thirty pounds of
a mixture of pemmican and meal, and a bag of bread. On
the loth of October they made their third and last deposit on
an island called James McGary, after the second officer of the
expedition. Here they erected a cairn and buried six hundred
and seventy pounds of pemmican and forty of meat, biscuit,
■with other items, making in all eight hundred pounds.

By the 7th of November, 1853, the darkness of an Arctic
winter began to settle down upon them. It was necessary to
keep the lamps lit constantly. In spite of the intense cold,
Dr. Kane continued to make his magnetic observations in the
observatory. When the thermometer stood at forty-nine
degrees below zero, and even at sixty-four degrees below
zero, he still effected his astronomical investigations and cal-
culations.

On the 2 1st of January the first traces of the returning
light became visible. Its approach was indicated by a beaute-
ous orange tint, which flushea the distant southern horizon.
But still the darkness seemed to be eternal and unvarying.
The continued absence of light appeared to affect the health
of the party as much as the excessive rigor of the cold. By
the 2 1 St of February the sun's rays became clearly visible, and,
when March arrived, it brought with it the almost perpetual
day wiiich alternately takes the place in the Arctic realms of
almost perpetual night.

By the i8th of March the spring tides began to break and
move the massive ice which still bound the Arctic Sea. The
ice commenced to grind and crush, the water to dash to and
fro, and the vessel to rise and descend in a range of seven-

1 ,11'''

THE EREBUS AND THE TERROR.

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SECOND GKINNKLL I'.XPKDHION

teen feet per clay. On tlie 20th a depot party was sent out
preparatory to the commencement of the operations of the
summer. The necessary pre[)arations for inland trips and
researches were made, sledges and accoutrements were con-
trived, and moccasins were fabricated. While these labors
occupied their attention, a portion of thc^ depot party suddenly

9m^'^l ''^ Jill

fffij^^

KANE AND HIS COMPANIONS.

reappeared at the vessel. They brought back a terrible report.
They had left four of their number lying on the ice frozen and
disabled, and they had returned a great distance to obtain in-
stant relief.

Not a moment was to be lost. Ohlsen, the only one of the
returned party who seemed able to give any information, was
wrapped up in buffalo robes and placed upon a sledge. Nine
4

!!■ nf

AUrriC KXITORATIONS.

1 1

: : I

men started out to the rescue. The cold was intense, ranLjiiij^
seventy-eii^ht dej^rc'es below the free/.inj^^-jwint. The instaiU
the |>arty c(*ased to move they would have bt;en frozen to
death. Violent exercise alone kept them alive. When they
ventured to a[)ply snow to their lips to slak(* their thirst, it
burnt like caustic, and blood imnKnliately followed. .Som(^ o(
the men wen; seizeil with tremblini; fits and some witii attacks
of short breath. Dr. Kane himself fainted twice upon the
snow under the intense cold.

After a laborious and dangerous journey of twenty-onc!
hours, the lost party were discovered. They were nearly forty
miles distant from the brig. Their condition was perilous in
the extreme, and t}m succor did not come a moment too soon.
But the rescuers were scarcely better off than the rescu(;d.
They were compelled to drag a load of nine hundred pounds
upon the sleclge, and during their return trip the whole party
were in imminent danger of being frozen to death. They
could with the utmost difficulty resist the disposition lo sleep,
which would have immediately sealed their fate. After a fear
Inl journey of several days, the party regained the brig; but
the; sufferings of that terrible occasion were almost beyond
the power of imagination. They had travelled about ninety
miles, and most of the men had become temporarily delirious,
nearly all were frozen in some portions of their bodies, and
two of them ultimately died in consequence of their exposure.

On the 27th of April, the time having arrived to continue
his researches both after Sir John Franklin and in Arctic dis-
covery. Dr. Kane determined to resume his expedition. He
resolved now to follow the ice-belt to the Great Glacier of
Humboldt, and thence to stretch along the face of the glacier
toward the west of north and make an attempt to cross th*^'
ice to the American side of the channel. The object of this
bold venture was to attain the utmost limit of the shore of
Greenland, to measure the waste which extended between it
and the unknown west, and thus to reveal, if possible, some
of the mysteries which surrounded the North Pole. The
journey was immediately commenced. After many adven-
tures and sufferings, the Great Glacier of Humboldt was
reached.

Dr. Kane now determined to organize a double party, in
order to ascertain whether a channel or any form of outlet
existed to the northern extremity of the coast of Greenland

SKCONI) CRINNKM. KXI'KDniON.

He was convinced of the existence of such a channel from the
inovements of th(; icelxirjj^s, from tiur ()hysical character of the
tides, as well as from certain and uniform analo<^ies of physical
ijrcograph.y.

On the 3d of June one of the parties of (exploration set out
Irom the brig. They ha'd a large sledge thirteen feet long.
They aimed directly for the glacier-barrier on the Greenland
side. Their ord(;rs were to attempt to scale; the ice and exam-
ine the interior of the great mey-dc-j^/ace.

On the 27th of June one of the parties, directed by McGary
and Bonsall, returned to the brig. .Several of th(;m had become
nearly blind. After twelve days' travel, th(;y had n^ached the
Great Glacier. Th(!y found the depot of provisions, which
had been deposited the previous season, destroyed by th(^
bears. An alcohol cask strongly bound in iron was dashed
into fragments, and i* tin liquor can was mashed and twisted
into a ball. This party of explorers had found it impossibl •
to scale the Great Glacier, and returned to the brig withou
Jiaving effected any results of importance.

The other party, which had been placed undcer the guidance
of Mr. Morton, left the vessel on the 4th of June. On the
15th they reached the foot of the Great Cilacier. They steered
liOrthward, keeping parallel with the glacier, and from five to
seven miles distant from it. The thickness of the ice over
which they journeyed was found to be seven feet five inches.
They travelled frequently with the snow u)> to their knees.
When they had reached Peabody Hay they encountered the
bergs, whose surface was fresh and glassy. Some of these
were rectangular in shape and some were square, and their
length varied from a quarter of a mile to a mile. The task
of travelling over these bergs was full of difficulty and danger.
At length they made their way to the ice beyond.

On the 19th of June, having encamped, Morton ascended
a high berg in order to examine their future route and survey
the surrounding desolation. From this point he beheld an
extensive plain which stretched away toward the north, which
proved to be the Great Glacier of Humboldt. From this
point the advance of the party was perilous. They were fre-
quently arrested by wide and deep fissures in the ice. Some
of these chasms were four feet wide, and contained water at
the bottom. From this point they beheld the distant northern
shore, termed the " West Land."

I'M

1 1''

AKC'IIC r.Xi I.OKATIONS.

At lonortli, by the 21st of jiiiu'. the party reached a point
opposite the terniinatioii ot tlieClrcat (llacier. It aiipcimd
to be inixeil with earlli and rocks. TravcllinL,^ on tliey rc.'aclicd
at length tlu> liead of Keiincxly Channel, and saw beyond that
the open water. Passing- in llieir route a cape, thc;y ealltxl it
Cape Andrew Jackson, 1 lere they found |L:()od smooth ice;
for durinir tht^ kist few ihiys thev liad passed over n)tten ice,
which not unfre([uently threatened to break beneatli tlKMii,
Havinq^ tMitereil the curvi' of a bay, they named it after
Robert Morris, tlie orent financier of the; revohition.

Kennedy Channel here ^rew narrower, but afterward it
widened asjain. liroken ic(; in larsje masses was lloatin<' in
it; but therc^ W(M-e passai;es fifteen miles in width which re-
mained jierf(H'tly clear. Six miles inward from the: channel
mountains rose to the view. On the 2 2(1 of |une they en-
camped, after havini^ travelled forty-eii,du miles in a direct
line. They could plainly see tiie opposite slion,', which aj)-
peared precipito\is and surmounted with suj^ar-loaf-shai)ed
moimtains. At this part of their journey they encountered
a polar bear with her cub. A desperate fioht cMisued, in
which tlie sin:_;ular instincts of nature were strikingly illus-
trated by the: desperate efforts made by the poor brute to
protect her hel[)less offspring-, which were slain. A shallow
bay covered with ice was then crossed. They [)assed several
islands which lay in tlu: channel, which they named after Sir
John Franklin and Captain Crozier. The cliffs which here
constituted the shore of the channel were very hicfh, towerins^
at least two thousand feet above its surface. The party at-
tempted to ascend these cliffs, but found it impossible to
mount more than a few^ hundred feet. They here encountered
a cape, and the party desired to pass around it in order to as-
certain whether there lay any unknown land beyond it. But
tliey found it impossible to advance. This then was the ut-
most limit and termination of their journey toward the Pole.
Mr. Morton ascended an eminence here, and carefully scru-
tinized the aspects of nature all around him. Six degrees to-
ward the west of north he observed a lofty peak, truncated in
its form, and about three thousand feet in height. This ele-
vation is named Mount Edward Parry, after the great pioneer
of Arctic adventure, and is the most extreme northern point
of land known to exist upon the globe. From the position
which Mr. Morton had attained he beheld toward the north,

M'l (1

it'

'fl

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t I

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

from an elevation of four hundred feet, a boundless waste of
waters stretching away toward the Pole. Not a particle of
ice encumbered its surface. Here was a fluid sea, in the midst
of whole continents of ice, and that sea seemed to wash the
Pole itself. The eye of the explorer surveyed at least forty
miles of uninterrupted water in a northern direction. The
point thus reached in this exploring expedition was about five
hundred miles distant from the Pole. Had the party been
able to convey thither a boat, they might have embarked upon
the bright and placid waters of that lonely ocean. But hav-
ing been able to make this journey only with the sledge, fur-
ther explorations were of course impossible. The most re-
markable development connected with these discoveries was,
that the temperature was here found to be much more mod-
erate than it was farther south. M*arine birds sailed through
the heavens. Rippling waves followed each other on the
surface of the deep. A few stunted flowers grew over the
barren and rocky shore. The inference which may be drawn
from these and other facts is, that this open sea, termed the
Polar Basin, stretches to the Pole itself, or at least continues
a great distance until its course is interrupted by other pro-
jections of the earth.

The several parties which had been sent forth by Dr. Kane
to explore the regions just described having returned, the
season of Arctic travel had nearly terminated, and the mem-
bers of the expedition were about to relapse into winter-
quarters with their usual " darkness, monotony, and gloom.
But before resigning themselves entirely to this unwelcome
seclusion, Dr. Kane resolved to make an effort to reach
Beechey Island. Accordingly Dr. Kane manned his boat,
called the Forlorn Hope, which was twenty-three feet long,
and six feet and a half beam. The necessary amount of
provisions were placed on board and the bold venture was
undertaken. Sometimes the boat was navigated through the
unfrozen channels of water which intervened between the
floes of ice ; at others she was placed on a large sledge called
the Faith, and thus transported over the frozen wastes.

This party approached Littleton Island, which had been vis-
ited by Captain Inglefield. They here obtained a vast quantity
of eider ducks. They then passed Flagstaff Point and Com-
bermere Cape. Then came Cape Isabella and Cape Freder-
ick VII. On the 23d of July they reached Hakluyt Island,

SECOND GRINNELL EXPEDITION.

and thence they steered for Gary Islands. But on the 31st of
July, when they had reached a point but ten miles distant from
Cape Parry, their further pro<i;rcss was absolutely stopped. A
solid mass of ice lay before th(;m on the sea, extending as far
as the eye could reach. This barrier was composed of the
vast seas of ice which had drifted through Jones' Sound on
the west and those of Murchison's on the east. The adven-
turers were now compelled to retrace their way. About the
1st of August they regained tiie brig without having met with
any accident, but also without having succeeded in attaining
the object of their excursion. They found the Advance
just as tightly wedged into the ice as it had been during the
preceding eleven months, with no hope of getting her re-
leased. Two important questions now demanded their atten-
tion. The first was how they were to pass this, their second
winter, in the Arctic regions, and how they were to make their
escape in the ensuing spring.

The prospect of a second winter amid the eternal snows
and ice of the Polar Circle was not inviting to the adventurers.
A portion of them felt convinced of the practicability of an
immediate escape to the south. On the 24th of August Dr.
Kane summoned all hands together and clearly stated to them
the aspects of the case. He advised that all should remain
by the brig till the next spring, although he declared that those
who wished to return could make the attempt. Eight men
concluded to remain, and nine of them resolved that, rather
than endure the miseries of a second winter near the Pole,
they would run the risks of an instant attempt to escape.
This resolution they made immediate preparations to execute.
A full share of the remaining provisions was measured out to
them, they were assured of a welcome reception if they chose
to return, and they started lorth on August 28th from the
brig. One of this party returned to the vessel in a few days;
the rest wandered for many months and endured much mis-
ery and exposure before they rejoined their wiser comrades
in the brig.

Dr. Kane and the eight men who remained with him imme-
diately began to prepare for the horrors of the ensuing win-
ter. They gathered a large amount of moss, with which they
lined and padded the quarter-deck. This expedient rendered
their cabin impervious to the changes and the extreme severity
of the atmosphere. They stripped off the outer-deck plank-

Akcric Kxri.oKAiioNs.

I I

i?.'

ing of the brij^ for tlu: piirpost; of fin^wood. Vhc. ( iiiof neces-
sity of the explorers was fresh im^al, to j^iiurd thcMii against
the scurvy. To ohtaiii this fcjod, frc(|iu>nt excursions were
inaile for tht purpose of capturing- seals. On one of these
occasions Ur. Kane narrowly escajied a watery <^rave. 1 le
was twelve miles' distance from tlie. l)ri!4 ^^ith a sinj^le attentl-
ant. The ice broke beneath their sledoe and they wvrc pre-
cipitated into the water. After L^reat exertions and amid ex-
treme dauijer they succeeded in r(;gaininL( ice sufficiently strong
to bear their weight. They lost their sledge. t(Mit, kayack,
guns, and snow-shoes.

Th(!y waited patiently for the time to arrive when they could
comm(Mice the; necessary preparations for the journey of 1,300
miles which they would undertake in tiie spring. The vess(.'l
would evidendy remain so iirmly fixed in an ocean of ice that
its removal would be utterly impossibU;. Their return must
be effected with the combined us(^ of sledges and boats. Yet,
before commencing a final r(;treat, Dr. Kane resolved to
attempt once more a northern excursion, hoping that it might
result in some useful discovery connected with the object of
the expedition.

The region which was yet to be explored was the farther
shores beyond Kennedy Channel. The aid of the dogs was
indispensable to the accomplishment of this task, and there
were but four left out of the sixty-two, which composed their
stock when they left Newfoundland An arrangement was,
however, made with Kalutunah, one of the wandering Ksqui-
maux whom they knew, for the use of his dogs and three
sledges. Thus reinforced, Dr. Kane, accompanied by several
experi(Miced Esquimaux travellers, commenced his jouiney.
In two hours they reached a lofty berg fifteen miles north of
the brig. The outside channel seemed filled with squeezed
ice, and on the frozen plain beyond the bergs appeared to be
much distorted.

Having returned to the brig. Dr. Kane resumed his prepa-
rations for final departure. Frozen fast as she was in the ice,
there was no possibility of removing her. The only possible
means of escape was by the combined use of boats and
sledges. The party went to work industriously in the manu-
facture of clothing suitable to the journey. Canvas moccasins
were made for each of the party, and a surplus supply of three
dozen was added to the stock.

SKCONI) GUINNKI.I, KXI'KDITION.

The rrif^ans of conveyance ^vhi(•^ \v<!r(; to carry the compaiis
on this lonj^ and weary journey, antl \vhii;li were to be carricnl
1)V th(!in in a j;r(,'at measure, consisted of three bt)ats. 'liiese
iiad all suffered very materiall\' from (txposuri; to the ice and
th(; Arctic storms, and were? scarc(.'ly seawordiy. They were
stren^jftliened and tinkered in every possible way by oak bot-
tom pieces and by wash-boards, which protected the jTunwales
and i^ave thcni greater depth. A housini;- of canvas was
stretched upon a ridge line, wiiich was suspended by stanch-
ions, and which were fastened over the sides of the boats to
jack-stays. I^ach boat had a single mast, and it was so ar-
rangeil that it could be easily inishipped and carried alongside
the boat. The boats were mounted on sletlges. The pro-
visions were stored carefully under the thwarts. The boats
wt;re to be drawn by the men with rue-raddies, or straps, which
passed over the shoulder and were attached by a long trace
to the sledge. The philosophical instruments were carefully
boxed and padded and placed in the stern-sheets of one of
the boats. Spy-glasses and small instruments the travellers
carried on their persons. The powder and shot, which now
became of inhnite value to them, were distributed in bags and
tin canisters. The percussion caps, the most valuable of all,
1 )r. Kane himself took charge of and reserved.

Having made all the preparations which were possible under
the circumstances of the case, Dr. Kane announced to his
crew that he appointed the 1 7th of May as the day of their
final departure from the brig. Each man was allowed to select
and retain eight pounds of personal effects. He was deter-
mined to commence this memorable journey on the day ap-
pointed, at all hazards. At length the day preceding that of
departure arrived. The boats were removed from the brig
and placed upon the ice. This process seemed to revive to
some degree the desponding spirits of the men. The pro-
visions were then conveyed into them, and other necessary
transfers were made. After some hours of active operations,
,thc whole of their task was completed, and the men returned
on board the brig in order to spend their last night in that
familiar shelter. After supper they retired to rest in order to
recruit their energies for the toils which were to commence
on the ensuing day, upon the final success of which their future
existence depended.

At length the wished-for moment arrived when the weary

I * 1

ill

'>8

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

i; I

, n

adventurers were to take their last farewell of the vessel which
had been associated with them in so many vicissitudes and
dangers. Th'rteen hundred miles of ice and water lay be-
tween their r^resent position and the shores of North Green-
; land.

The whole return party consisted of seventeen persons,
including Dr. Kane. Four of these were sick and unable to
move. The rest were divided into two companies and appro-
priated to the several boats. Dr. Kane took charge of the
dog-team, which was to be used for the purpose of conveying
provisions from tlie vessel to the crew during the first few
days of their journey. To the boat called Faith, McGary,
Ohlsen, Bonsall, Petersen and H'ckey were assigned. To
the Hope, Morton, Sontag, Riley, Blake and Godfrey were
detailed.

The first stage of the journey was to a spot called Anoatok,
which had been a halting-place in their winter journeys. It
was a single hut, composed of rude and heavy stones, and
resembled a cave more th^n it did a house. Strange to say,
this bleak and forlorn corner of that frozen hemisphere, the
gloomiest and most detestable on the whole face of the globe,
bore a name which was imposed by the least poetical of
human beings, the Esquimaux, which was not devoid of
beauty; for Anoatok in the jargon of the shivering natives
means " the wind-loved spot." It was perched on the ( a-
treme point of a rocky promontory, and commanded a wide
view of the icy straits, both toward the north and south.

Dr. Kane had exerted himself to repair the hut, and make
it fit to shelter the sick. He had added a door to its broken
outlet, and had introduced a stove and stove-pipe. Other
improvements had been made. A solitary pane of glass,
which once had faced a daguerreotype, was inserted in the
door, to give a scanty light. The provisions which had been
removed to this place were eight hundred pounds in weight.
Seven hundred pounds still remained in the brig, to be re-
moved by successive journeys of the dog-team. The services
of these six dogs were indeed invaluable. In addition to all
their previous journeys, they carried Dr. Kane to and fro,
with a well-burdened sledge, nearly eight hundred miles
during the first two weeks after they left the brig, being an
average of fifty-seven miles per day.

So feeble and reduced were the parties who dragged the

SECOND GRINNELL KXPEDITION.

lor an

the

two boats, that they advanced but a mile a day, and on the
24th had only made seven miles. The halts were regulaied
entirely by the condition of the men, who required lono.'r
rest at some periods than at others. The thermometer ranged
below zero, and the men slept at night in the boats, protected
by their canvas coverings. Had it not been for the shelter
which the hut at Anoatok afforded, the four sick men — Good-

RELICS BROUGHT BACK BY THE FRANKLIN EXPEDITION.

fellow, Wilson, Whipple, and Stephenson — they must have
perished. At the time of their removal into it, they were so
drawn up with the scurvy that they were wholly unable to
move. Yet their delay in this hut was extremely gloomy ; for
it lasted from the time that they were removed from the brig,
until they were carried forward by the sledge to the boats,
which had been dragged by their respective crews in advance

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

! : 111

of them. During this interval they were carefully fed and
attended by Dr. Kane.

Dr. Kane's visits to the brig from time to time, in order to
obtain supplies of provisions, were full of interest to him.
On the first of these he found the vessel already inhabited by
an old raven, which had often been seen hovering around,
and whom they had called Magog. The fire was lighted in
the galley, the pork was melted, large batches of bread were
baked, dried apples were stewed, and then the sledge was
made ready to return with the load. Such was usually the
routine of Dr. Kane's lonely visits to the brig. After the
first of these visits, when h^ returned to the "wind-loved
spot," Anoatok, with his sledge, he found that the sick who
still remained there had e^-xhausted their provisions ; that their
single lamp had gone out ; that the snow-drifts had forced
their way in at the door, so that it could not be shut ; that the
wind was blowing furiously through the open tenement; and
that the thennometer ranged only thirteen degrees above
zero. The invalids were disheartened and hungry. A fire
was built with tarred rope ; a porridge was prepared for them
out of meat biscuit and pea-soup ; the door was fastened up ;
a dripping slab of fat pork was suspended over their lamp-
wick; and then all turned into their sleeping bags, after a
hearty though not very savory meal. So overcome were
they all with exposure and weakness, that they slept until
after all their watches had run down.

Dr. Kane then hurried forward to the sledge party, who
had by that time reached Ten Mile Ravine. They were
struggling with the deep snows, were overwhelmed with fa-
tigue, and were somewhat disheartened. Although their feet
were much swollen, they had toiled that day for fourteen
hours. Some were suffering from snow-blindness, and were
scarcely able to work at the drag-ropes. In spite of all their
toils and sufferings, morning and evening prayers were con-
stantly read by the adventurers. Meanwhile the sledge
party advanced slowly toward the south. On the 28th Dr.
Kane paid his last visit to the brig. He was compelled to
leave behind his collections in natural history, his library, and
some of his instruments, such as his theodolite and chart-box,
the useless daguerreotypes, and other companions and me-
mentos of Arctic toil and suffering. Then he mounted his
sledge ; gave a last look at the blackened hull and spars of

SECOND GR7NNELL EXrEDITION.

the Advance ; fiercely whipped up his dogs in a paroxysm of
mournful gloom ; and sped away for the last time over the
snowy waste which had been associated with so many recol-
lections. Thus was left behind at last in its frozen bed the
vessel which had been connected with two Arctic expeditions,
one of which is the most remarkable on record ; and there,
doubtless, she remains, an unseen monument of human en-
terprise, benevolence, and endurance.

From Anoatok Dr. Kane's next labor was to remove the
provisions and men further on in their route. A friendly Es-
quimau, named Metek, was sent forward to the next station,
with two bags of b ead-dust, each weighing ninety pounds.
The next station was Etah Bay. About midnight Dr. Kane
approached that vicinity. The sun was low in the heavens,
and the air around was marked by that peculiar stillness
which accompanies the great solitudes of nature. While
feeling the oppressive weight of that silence, his ears were
suddenly greeted by unexpected sounds of mirth and laughter.
He had approached an encampment of the wandering Esqui-
maux, consisting of about thirty men, women, and children.
The cause of their joy was the capture of innumerable birds,
called Auks, which they were engaged in catching with nets.
This was the spot which thesc birds mysteriously chose for
the purpose of breeding from year to year ; and the Esqui-
maux as regularly found their way thither in pursuit of them.

The travellers continued their weary march through the
snow, dragging their boats p ^ter them. Sometimes, when the
weather moderated — for it ^vas summer — the sledges broke
through. Six men on one occasion were thrown into the
water, and the Hope was very nearly lost. Help came to
them from the Esquimaux at Etah, who sent them the loan
of their dogs, together with an additional supply of fresh pro-
visions. The dogs were of infinite service in drawing one
of the sledges, upon which the sick men were conveyed. At
this period an accident deprived the expedition by death of
one of its most useful members. While crossing a tide-hole,
one of the runners of the Hope sledge broke through the
ice. The energy and presence of mind of Christian Ohlsen
alone saved her from being lost. By a prodigious effort he
passed a capstan-bar under the sledge, and thus sustained its
weight until it was dragged forward to firm ice. In doing
this his footing gave way beneath him, and he thus was com-

i;-.^

f I

f'u]

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

pelled to strain himself. Tiie effort ruined him. Some in-
ternal injury had been inflicted by the effort, and he died
three days afterward. His body was sewed up in his own
blankets, and carried in procession to the head of a little
til^orge to the east of Pekiutlik, where a grave was excavated
in the frozen earth. There his body was deposited with a few
simple and appropriate ceremoi.ies. His name and age were
inscribed by the commander on a strip of sheet lead ; and
ere his grave v.ras filled by his comrades, the brief and touch-
ing memorial was laid upon his manly breast. A small
mound was then erected with rocks and stones over his lonely
resting-place ; and there now sleep, in that cheerless and
wintry tomb, the remains of Christian Ohlsen.

By the 6th of June the party reached Littleton Island.
From a lofty height here of some eight hundred feet, Dr.
Kane obtained his first view of the open water. His position
at that time was 78° 22' i" latitude, and 74° 10' longitude. So
weary were the men of dragging the sledges over the snow
and ice, that they wished to take the direct route to the water,
upon which they were eager to embark wi-th the boats. But
the dangers of the plan proposed overruled their wishes, and
the inland route, though longer, was selected. The wished-
for water which greeted the eyes of the weary travellers was
Hartstcin Bay, and they welcomed it with emotions of rapture
resembling those which, as Xenophon records, filled the
minds and excited the enthusiasm of the ten thousand
Greeks when, after their long and perilous march through
Asia-Minor, and their escape from the myriads of Artaxerxes,
they first beheld the distant waves of the sea whose billows
laved the shores of their beloved Greece.

On the 1 6th of June the party reached the water. Ft was
at the northern curve of the North Baffin Bay. On the i8th
the travellers were surrounded by all the Ksquimaux who had
been assembled at Etah. They had come to bid the strangers
farewell, v/hom they had served to the best of their ability at
an earlier stage of their journey. They were indeed a mis-
erable and forlorn race, though kindly and confiding in their
dispositions. They received various presents and keepsakes
from the travellers — such as knives, files, saws, and lumps of
soap. They had been of great service in lending hand-
sledges and dogs, in helping to carry baggage and the sick
from one station to another, along their weary route ; and

111

SECOND GRINNKLL KXPEDITION,

they parted from the strangers — probably the last they were
destined ever to behold in that repulsive clime — with feelings
of regret which they did not conceal. Dr. Kane urged them
to emigrate farther south, for there they could obtain more
abundant food, and escape the perils of starvation which con-
stantly surrounded them.

On the evening of Sunday, June 17th, the party hauled
their boats through the hummocks, reached the open sea, and

OFF FOR THE OPEN SEA.

launched the frail craft upon its waters. But Eolus seemed
determined not to permit them yet to embark, for he let loose
his fiercest winds, which began to dash a heavy ivind-lipper
ai^ainst the ice-floe, and obliged the party to remove their
boats brck with each new breakage of the ice. The goods
which had been stacked upon the ice were conveyed farther
inward to the distance of several hundred yards. The storm
continued t rage, and to forbid them to venture on the
treacheious element. At last Dr. Kane saw the nece^^^ity of

'mm

iijii

'i. ' > ;

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

f ;

( I

\ ■■■'

permitting the worn-out men to repose, and in order to do
so securely, the boats were removed a mile from the water's
edge. The sea tore up the ice to the very base of the berg
to which they had fled for refuge, and the angry deep seemed
like a vast cauldron, boiling with intense fury, while the im-
mense fragments of ice crashed and rolled together with a
sound resembling thunder.

At length the storm subsided, and the troubled sea became
tranquil. The boats were again prepared for embarkation.
On Tuesday, the 19th, Dr. Kane succeeded in getting the
Faith afloat, and he was soon followed by the two other boats.
Soon the wind freshened, and the mariners began their wel-
come progress homeward ; but they had a long and perilous
voyage before them of many hundred miles. At length they
doubled Cape Alexander. They desired first to halt at
Sutherland Island ; but the ice-belt which hugged its shores
was too steep to permit them to land. They then steered for
Hakluyt Island, but had not proceeded far before the red boat
swamped. The crew were compelled to swim to the other
boats, and the former was with difficulty keep afloat, and
dragged in tow by her comrades. Dr. Kane then fastened
his boats to an old floe, and thus sheltered, the men obtained
their second halt and rest. When they had become some-
what refreshed, they rowed for Hakluyt Island, at a point less
repulsive and impracticable than the one attempted the day
before. A spit to the southward gave them an opportunity
to haul up the boats on the land-ice as the tide rose. From
this the men dragged the boats to the rocks above and inland,
and were thus secure. It snowed heavily during the ensuing
night. A tent was prepared for the sick, and a few birds
were luckily obtained to vary their stale diet of bread-dust
and tallow.

On the next morning, the 2 2d, the snow-storm still contin-
ued to pelt them ; but they pressed onward toward North-
umberland Island, and reached it. They rowed their boats
into a small inlet of open water, which conducted them to the
beach directly beneath a hanging glacier, which towered sub-
limely into the heavens to the immense height of eleven
hundred feet.

The next day they crossed Murchison Channel, and at
night encamped at the base of Cape Parry. The day had
been laboriously spent in tracking over the ice, and in sailing

i 'I

)ntin-
lorth-
Iboats
\o the
sub-
lleven

id at
had
lUing

SECOND GRINNELL EXl'EDITIONf

through tortuous leads. The day following they reached
Fitz Clarence Rock ; one of the most singular forms to be
seen in that strange clime. It rises to an immense height
from a vast field of ice, having the shape of an Egyptian
pyramid surmounted by an obelisk. In more frequented
waters it would be a valued landmark to the navigator.

Still they continued to toil onward from day to day. Their
progress was satisfactory, though their labor was exhausting.
Dr. Kane sometimes continued sixteen hours in succession at
the helm. But now their allowance of food began to grow
scanty. It was reduced to six ounces of bread-dust per day,
and a lump of tallow about the size of a walnut. An occa-
sional cup of tea was their only consolation. From this stage
in their journey Dalrymple Rock became perceptible in the
distance. But the physical strength of the men began to
give way beneath their labors and their insufficient diet. At
this crisis a gale struck them from the northwest, and a floe,
one end of which having grounded on a tongue of ice about
a mile to the northward of them, began to swing round to-
ward the boats, and threaten to enclose and crush them.
Soon the destruction of the surrounding ice threatened their
own. For hundreds of yards on every side around them the
ice was crumbled, crushed, and piled in irregular and frag-
mentary masses. The thunder of the confused ocean of
frozen wrecks was overpowering. Suddenly the ice seemed
to separate p.nd' form a channel ; and in that channel, so
unexpectedly opened before them, the men rowed the boats
with the aid of their boat hooks, and escaped a danger which
a moment before seemed inevitable and ruinous. Soon they
found themselves in a lead of land-water, wide enough to give
them rowing rqi|n, and they hastened on to the land, which
loomed ahead. ^Pleaching it, they eagerly sought a shelter.
The Hope here stove her bottom, and lost part of her weather-
boarding. The water broke over them, for the storm still
continued. At length the tide rose high enough at three
o'clock to enable them to scale the ice-cliff. They succeeded
in pulling the boats into a deep and narrow gorge, which
opened between the towering cliffs. The rocks seemed
almost to close above their heads. An abrupt curve in the
windings of this gorge placed a protecting rock behind them,
which shielded them from the violence of the winds and
waves. They had reached a haven of refuge which was
5

AKCIIC KXPLORATIONS.

. '•*;

a' T»st a cave ; where they found a flock of cider ducks on
whu.i they feasted ; and where for three days liiey reposed
from the dangers and labors of their voyage. This retreat
they fitly called Weary Man's Rest.

The fourth day of July having arrived, it was commemorated
by the adventurers by a few dihited and moderate potations,
such as their nearly exhausted whiskey flask permitted; and
they then embarked and rowed industriously toward Wolsten-
holme Island. During some succeeding days, they continued
slowly to progress toward the south, through the various
lanes of water which opened between the belt-ice and the
floe. By this time the constant collisions between the boats
and the floating ice had rendered them quite unseaworthy.
The ice had strained their bottom timbers, and constant baling
was necessary. Their fresh meat had all been consumed,
and the men were now reduced again to short rations of
bread-dust.

On the I ith of July they approached ape Dudley Digges ;
but their progress was suddenh stopped by an immense
tongue of floe which extended out to sea for a prodigious dis-
tance. They forced their way into a lead of skidge, and
attempted thus to advance. They found this to be ini])ossi-
ble ; and were glad to make tlieir escape from it. Dr. Kane
was at a loss how to proceed. He mounted an iceberg to
reconnoitre the surrounding prospect. It was gloomy and
repulsive in the extreme. They were in advance of the
season ; and he discovered that in those waters toward Cape
York the floes had not yet broken up. They seemed to be
surrounded in a ctd-de-sac, with exhausted strength and
food, and no possibility of escaping until the summer had
broken open for them a pathway of escape.^

Sailing along they passed the Crimsoi>,»Cliffs, so named
by Sir John Ross. They continued thence to hug the shore.,
The weather now moderated ; and their voyage assumed
more agreeable an'l genial features. The men frequently
landed, climbed up th^ steep cliffs and obtained abundant
quantities of auk?. Fires were kindled with the turf, and the
feasts which ensued were relished with more than an ordinary
appetite ; and that also the more truly, because the travellers
well \new that their good fortune, and their propitious seas
and weather, would not long continue. They were now in
78° 20' north latitude.

SECOND (.ilUNNELl, KXI'l-DlTIuN.

On the 1st of August lliey came witliin siglitof the Devil's
Thumb, and were no longt r wanderers in unknown regions;
but were within the hmits of the district frecjuented by tiie
wiialers. Soon they reached the Duck Islands. At length
they passed Cape Shacki- on, and then steered for the shore
of Greenland.

During two days longer they continued to follow the coast,

VIEW OF SANDERSON'S HOPE, NEAR UPERNAVTK, BAFFIN BAY.

sailino- southward. At the end of this time they discerned
the single mast of a small shallop, and heard words of
mingled English and Danish from the sailors on board of her.
They soon discerned that it was the Upcrnavik oil-boat on
its way to Kingatok to obtain blubber. 'I^he annual ship had
arrived from Copenhagen at Proven ; and this was one of the
boats which supplied her with a cargo of oil. From the

:i"i]

C ■ f!.|

1;, i ■ f f
1*1 ii

ARCTIC KXPLORATIONS.

i ! ,

,:.

sailors on board the shallop, Dr. Kane first received informa-
tion of the jT^reat events which, during his absence, had
ai,ntated the world to which he had been so lon^^ a stranj^er ;
how England and France had combined with the Turk to
humble the haughty pride of the imperial Romanoff; and
how vast armies were then engaged in mortal strife on tlu'
once quiet and fertile plains of the Crimea. For the first
time he learned the importance which Sebastopol had acquired
in the history and fate of the world, surrounded as it then was
with a battling host of a hundred thousand men.

They ron'-id on. Soon Kasarsoak, the snow-capped sum-
mit of Sanderson's Hope, appeared to them, towering above
the mists ; and as they approached the welcome harbor of
Upernavik, from which they had issued several years before
ii he gallant vessel they had now left behind them, they felt
as oiily such men under such circumstances could feel. Dur-
ing eighty-four days they had lived in the open air, tossing in
frail boats on the bosom of the angry, half-frozen deep. They
were delivered from a thousand deaths, and arrived at last
safely at Upernavik, where they were received with hospitality.

Dr. Kane resolved to embark his party in the Danish
vessel the Mariane, which sailed on the 6th of September for
the Shetland Islands. They took with them their little boat
the Faith, which had accompanied them through so many
adventures. They only retained their clothes and documents,
of all they had once possessed on board the Advance. On
the nth they arrived at Godhaven, where they found their
former friend, Mr. Olrik, the Danish Inspector of North
Greenland.

Dr. Kane and his associates returned to New York in the
squadron of Captain Hartstene, consisting of the United
States bark Release and the United States steam-brig Arctic,
which had sailed from New York in June, 1855, ^" search of
him and his party. They arrived at New York on the nth
of October, 1855.

The results of his expedition- comprise the survey and de-
lineation of the north coast of Greenland to its termination by
a great glacier ; the survey of this glacier and its extension
northward into the new land named Washington ; the dis-
covery and delineation of a large tract of land, forming the
extension northward of the American continent, and a survey
of the American continent. •»

CHAPTER V.
I

AMERICAN ARCTIC EXPEDITION.

Kxpcilition of tlie United States Ship Vincennes under Commander John Rodgers-^I'etro-
paulovski — Ueliring Strait — Wranj^el! Land.

While Lieutenant Hartstene was ncarin.j^ the port of New
York with tlie rescued party of Dr. Kane on board the Re-
lease, the Vincennes, under Commander John Rodgers, was
returning' from a cruise in the Arctic Seas on the western
side of the continent. The ship came into San Francisco
October 15th, 1855, two days after the arrival of Kane at the
Brooklyn navy-yard.

The explorations and surveys made on this cruise were in the
prosecution of the original plans of the United States Survey-
ing and Exploring Expedition which had left the United States,
under Commander Cadwalader Ringgold, in the year 1853.

The expedition consisted of tiie sloop-of-war Vincennes,
the screw steamer John Hancock, the brig Porpoise, the
schooner J. Fenimore Cooper, and the store-ship J. P. Ken-
nedy. Lieutenant John Rodgers was detached to command
the Hancock. *

The squadron sailed from Norfolk June nth, 1853. The
primary object of the expedition was the promotion of the
great interests of commerce and navigation ; special attention
being also directed to the increasing importance of the whale
fisheries in the neiohborhood of Behrincf Strait. The thor-
ough examination of that great outlet was expected, as well as
that of the adjacent coasts of North America and Asia, in-
cluding the Seas of Behring and Anadir, and the Aleutian
archipelago, with the east coast of Kamtschatka. The com-
mander was authorized to go as far north as he should think
proper, and devote as much time to the complete performance
of any part of the work as should be necessary ; but was in-
structed also to take all occasions not incompatible with these
high objects, for the extension of the boundaries of scientific
research. In the following year a reorganization of the ex-

(69)

■!11i

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

iS '

pedition became necessary, the failing liealtii of Commander
Ringgold requiring his return to the United States; the com-
mand devolved upon Lieutenant John Rodgers, the next in
rank.

The Vincennes and Porpoise sailed from Hong-Kong on
the 1 2th of September for a survey of the Bonin Isles.
Ladrone, Loo-choo, and the islands west and south of Japan,
and returned to Hong-Kong in February, 1855, with the ex-
ception of th 3 brig Porpoise, which parted company from the
Vincennes September 21st, 1854, in mid-channel between
Formosa and China to the northward and westward of the
Pescadores. The brig, with every soul on board, perished.
She was to have met the Vincennes at the Bonin Isles, and
Commander Rodgers waited for her there beyond the ap
pointed time. As there were grounds for apprehension of
her safety, since both the Vincennes and the Porpoise had
struggled together with the storm of the date named. Com-
mander Rodgers went in search of her, visiting the Loo-choo
and other islands and places where it was thought possible
she might have been driven by the gale ; and afterward th(^
Hancock and Cooper thoroughly explored the island of
Formosa, but without the slightest intelligence of the ill-fated
brig.

The following brief notices about the expedition of the
Vincennes are derived from the log of die ship and letters of
Commander Rodofers :

July 8th, 1855. — The Vincennes arrived at Avatcha Bay,
Siberia, in which lies the port of Petropaulovski. The village
presented a singular appearance, its houses, about one hun>
dred in number, being built of logs hewn square, many of
them having red roofs ; the better class covered with sheet-
iron, the red lead being probably designed as a protection
from rust. The villacre is situated at the head of a land-
locked basin, formed by a high ridge of land curving out and
rounding from the main, and then running parallel to it. A
low sand-spit forms a breakwater across the entrance. On
the shoulder of the spit, and on the promontory of the ridge,
were seen the ruins of battt^ries from which the euns had
been removed.

A boat came off with a Mr. Case, an American resident,
who reported the town deserted, and that the public property
had been destroyed, and that of private persons wantonly in-

AMERICAN AFCTIC EXrEDITION.

t' 'I

jured by the French. On a visit by the officers of the
Vincennes, the burned houses presented a mournful appear-
ance, and the deserted mansion of the governor scarcely less
of discomfort. This dwelling w?,s of logs caulked with oakum,
and lined with painted canvas ; its heating had been from
Russian stoves, which, as massive squares of brick-work,
maintained a constant temperature. A stream of clear water,
supplied from the melting snow of the hills, formed a small
cascade in the garden. In the stieets many dogs were wander-
ing without masters, to die of starvation. In the calm of the
evening the scenery was very fine, presenting from one point
the wide waters of the bay, the close, calm harbor, the distant
and majestic mountains, and the light-hued vegetation, waving
with every zephyr. X^iolets and heartsease were gathered
for home letters. Durinof the absence of the officers the seine
had been hauled, bringing up one hundred and forty salmon
with trout ; a king-salmon weighed sixty pounds ; the lightest,
ten pounds.

On the 9th an American ship with a cargo consigned to
Petropaulovski arrived from New York via Valparaiso. On
the 13th the commander of the Vincennes sent as a present
to the governor of Siberia a silver-mounted Sharpe rille with
ammunition ; the Vincennes ran out to sea, taking as an
interpreter an old Cossack sixty-seven years of age.

On July 1 6th the Vincennes encountered thick weather,
but without rain ; at noon, when it lightened up, Behring
Island was seen bearing southeast. I'Vom this date up to the
close of the month, adverse easterly winds prevailed, with the
exceptional calms accompanied by the usual fogs.

On August 1st Behring Straits were entered after passing
between St. Lawrence Island and Cape Tchaplin in a thick
fog without seeing land. The ship hauled in for Semiavine
Straits on the Asiatic side, where the commander had deter-
mined to leave a party under Lieutenant Brooke to make
astronomical and other observations. In the afternoon, land
was suddenly seen close aboard, without the position of the
ship being well known, as they had no observations. From
the deck some mound-like structvires, the huts of the Tchukt-
chis, were seen, with what appeared the framing of others —
eight or ten whale-ribs set upon end close together. A large
number of the men, with their women and children, crowded
around the ship in their baidars, skin-boats ; they were all

ifil

■;!

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

dressed in furs, generally with coats of deer-skin, and panta-
loons of seal-skin, over which they wore looser frocks made
of the intestines of whales or other sea animals. They were
tall and had large heads ; the llatness of their faces, relieved
only by prominent cheekbones, making them appear sin-
gularly heavy. Their hair was shorn, except a broad ridge
over the forehead. The women were not ugly, some of
them quiie pretty, particularly when they smiled ; and when

WALRUS or IHK ll KFIELDS.

asking for anything, they put on so winning an air and smiled
so sweetly. The party made ready exchanges of -walrus
teeth, lances and harpoons made of the ivory of the moose,
for needles, thread, siik and like articles ; tobacco being chiefly
desired. All could eicher smoke or chew, and for half a plug
of the weed they willingly gave weapons which must have
cost them weeks of patient labor. They inquired for grog
of which, however, very litde was given to them.

AMERICAN ARCTIC EXrKDrnON.

The Viiiccnnes entered the Arctic Sea Aucrust nth. It
Vijda utterly impossible to expect to wint(;r in a hiL,^h latitude —
the ship had but four months' provisions and luel — and the
commander was desirous to ri;turn to the work of the sur-
veys at the earliest date consistent with the visitint^ to the
land in about latitude 72° N., longitude 1 75° W. ; with examin-
iiii^ Herald Island, seen by the same ship, but not explored ;
aiid the endeavor to reach Wrangell Land.

On August nth the ship encountered a stream of drift-
timber, some of the trees of which were so large and nu-
merous that she had fre(|uently to alter her course of seven
knots to avoid striking them. She ran over the tail of Herald
Shoal, which had less than eighteen fathoms water, and on
the 13th passed the island, which appeared dimly betwc:en the
cloutls as two small ones. The weather became foggy, and
the ship stood for the north until she came to anchor in forty-
two fatlioms, in latitude 72° 5' N., longitude i 74° 87' W. In a
few hours the fog lifted, and a sudden change, peculiar to the
northern regions, Hashed across the scene ; it was so clear
that the horizon appeared without limit. No land or apptjar-
ance of land could be seen from the royal yards. The water,
as far as the eye could reach, was entirely free from ice, but
the weather became again foggy. Commander Rodgers,
having accomplished what he had proposed, and being as-
sured that a longer exposure of his officers and crew could
result in injury only, returned toward Herald Island. On the
24th of September the passage through the Aleutian chain
was made by night through the Straits of Amoukta. This
passage was found to be excellent, " the widest and probably
the best through these seas." Nothing of special interest
occurring on her return, October 13th, the Vincennes anchored
in the harbor of San Francisco. The Hancock and the Fen-
imore Cooper arrived in port the day following.

. I! U 1

i 11

I i

CHAPTER VI.

EXPLORATIONS OF DR. ISAAC I. HAYES.

He visits Melville Bay — Winters at Port Foulke — Arctic Night described — Highest Poi«t

reached.

'■\':

I- :i

The next American Arctic exploration on the northeastern
coast was effected by Dr. Hayes, surgeon of the second
Grinnell expedition.

The proposed route was again to be by way of Smith's
Sound, and his objects were to complete "the survey of the
north coasts of Greenland and Grinnell Land, and to make
further explorations towards the Pole, in order to verify the
existence of the reported open Polar Sea. On the former
voyage he had traced Grinnell Land beyond the eightieth par-
allel, and he now hoped to push a vessel into the ice-belt
there, and thence transport a boat over it into the open water
of the great basin which he hoped to find beyond.

The tore-and-aft-schooner United States sailed from Bokin
on July 7th, i860, and crossed the Arctic circle on the 30th
of July. Dr. Hayes visited Proven and Upernavik, where
the ship's company was increased by the addition of six per-
sons. On the 23d day of August Melville Bay was entered
in a thick snow-storm. The expedition wintered at Port
Foulke. Dr. Hayes thus describes in his journal on the i6th
day of January, 1861, an Arctic night:

" Our eyes now turn wistfully to the south, eagerly watching
for the tip of Aurora's chariot, as the fair goddess of the
morning rises from the sea to drop a ray of gladness from
her rosy fingers into this long-neglected world. It is almost
a month since we passed the darkest day of winter, and it
will be a long time yet before we have light ; but it is time
for us now to have at noontime a faint tiush upon the honzon.
A faint twilight flush mounting the southern sky to-d:iy ai u\
meridian hour, though barely perceptible, was a cheering sight
to all. We Teel that the veil of night is lifting, that th*-: l'ouc!

(74)

■"mJ

EXI'LORAIIONS OK DR. ISAAC I. HAYES.

is passing- away, that the load of darkness is being light-
ened. ...

" The p.,.>ple have exhausted their means of amusement ; we
long for the day and for work. Talk as yoi! will of pluck and
of manly amusement, this Arctic night is a severe ordeal. It

DR. ISAAC 1. IIAYKS.

is a severe trial to the moral and the intellectual faculties.
The cheering inlluences of the rising sun, which invite to
labor; the soothing inlluences of the evenn>g tvilight, which
invite to repose ; the change from day to nig-n nnd from night
to day, which lightens* the l)urden to the weary mind and the

. p

firtlJ

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

aching- body, is withdrawn ; and, in the constant lo, ing for
light, the mind and body, weary witii the cliangeless j..')gress
of the time, fail to find repose where all is rest. The gran-
deur of nature ceases to give delight to the dull sympathies ;
the heart longs for new. associations, new objects, and new
companionships ; the dark and dreary solitude oppresses the
understanding; the desolation which reigns everywhere
haunts the imagination ; the silence — dark, dreary, and pro-
found — becomes a terror. I have gone out into the Arctic
night, and viewed nature in her varied aspects. I have re-
joiced with her in her strength, and communed with her in
repose. I have walked abroad in the darkness, when the
winds were roarincr through the hills and crashing over the
plains. I have wandered far out upon the frozen sea. and
listened to the voice of the icebergs, bewailing their imprison-
ment; along the glacier, where forms and falls the avalanche;
up on the hill-top, where the drifting snow, coursing its way
over the rocks, sang its plaintive song; and again I have wan-
dered away to the distant valley, where all these sounds were
hushed, and the air was still and solemn as the tomb.

"And here it is that the true spirit of the Arctic night is
revealed, where its wonders are unloosed, to sport and play
with the mind's vain imaginings. The heavens above and
the earth beneath reveal only an endless and fathomless
quiet ; there is nowhere evidence of life or motion ; I stand
alone amidst the mighty hills ; their tall crests climb upward,
and are lost in the gray vault of the skies ; their dark clifts,
standing against their slopes of white, are the steps of a vast
amphitheatre. The mind, finding no rest on their bald sum-
mits, wanders into space: the moon, weary with long vigil,
sinks to her repose ; the Pleiades no longer breathe their
sweet influences; Cassiopeia and Andromeda and Orion, and
all the infinite host of the unnumbered constellations, fail to
infuse one spark of joy into this dead atmosphere; they have
lost all their tenderness, and are cold ancl pulseless. The
eye leaves them and returns to earth, and the trembling ear
awaits something that will break the oppressive sullness.
But no footfall of living- thin^- reaches it, no wild beast howls
through the solitude. There is no cry of bird to enliven the
scene ; no tree among whose branches the winds can sigh
and moan. The pulsations of mj' own heart are alone heard
in the gTc;at void ; and, as the blood courses through the

EXPLORATIONS Or DR. ISAAC I. HAYES.

sensitive organization of the ear, I am oppressed as with dis-
cordant sounds. Silence has ceased to be negative ; it has
become endowed with positive attributes. I seem to hear
and see and feel it. It stands forth as a frightful spectre, fill-
in<^the mind with the overpowering consciousness of universal
(lej^th — proclaiming the end of all things and heralding the
everlasting future. Its presence is unendurable. I spring
from the rock upon which I have been seated ; I plant my
feet heavily in the snow, to banish its awful presence, and
the sound rolls through the night and drives away the
phantom.

" I have seen no expression on the face of nature so filled
with terror as the silence of the Arctic night."

In the early spring the Esquimaux replenished the dog-teams
to the number of twenty. Several, however, died as before.
With the rest a provision depot for the summer use was soon
estabhshed, and on the 4th of April, 1861, Hayes, with twelve
officers and men, started out on his principal and long jour-
ney to the North. His equipment consisted of a metallic
life-boat mounted on runners, with provisions for seven per-
sons for five months, and for six persons and fourteen dogs
for six weeks. He was, however, again compelled to keep
to the eastern shore, and, consequently, encountered the
same experience of ice-hummocks with which Kane had
met ; and finally finding it impossible to transport the boat
brought out in the fond anticipation of pushing it out on the
Polar waters, he sent it back with the main party, while he
continued the journey with two companions only. But with
these he reached the west coast by nearly the same track fol-
lowed by him in 1854, corrected some errors of the chart
made at that time, entered Kennedy Channel, and on the
1 6th of the month attained a point forty miles farther north
than Kane's highest on the opposite shore. Returning in the
same track he reached his vessel after an absence of fifty-nine
days, and a journey of comings and goings of fourteen hun-
dred miles. To the highest point reached he gave the name
of Cape Lieber. To the north lay Lady Franklin Bay. In
the far distance, north of Cape Beechey, a headland was seen
to which he gave the name of Cape Union.

The schoonei, having been prepared for sea, was broken
out of the ice on the loth of July, and sailed from her winter
harbor on the 14th. After much difficulty and two trials she

t If

.11;

ifi

ARCTIC I'XI'I.ORATIONS.

I I

■i ■ i . i'

reached tlie west coast ten miles below Cape Isabella. Con-
tinuing iiis voyage southward Dr. Mayes completed the
survey of the eastern coast of Nortli Baffin Hay, from Cape
Alexander to Granville IJay ; a survey madf* independently

THi: TENl' OF DR. I. I. HAYES.

of the charts of his predecessors. The shore-line surveyed
on the eastern side, a portion of which is new discovery,
equalled about six hundred miles, and on the western side,
between Clarence Head on the south and Cape Union on
the north, about thirteen hundred miles. '

KXPLOKATFONS OF ISAAC I. HAYES.

i J

He entered M(;lvillc Bay, and after borinij^ throuo^h the
"pack" lor one hundred and fifty miles enten^d the Soulhern
Water, and reached Upernavik on the 14th of Au<^ust, and
Uisco Island September ist. The voyau^c from (iodhaven

SNOW VILLAGE— Kil-OO.

southward was very stormy. Off Halifax the ship received
such injury as required her to put into port for repairs.
Leaving this harbor, October 19th, Dr. Hayes arrived in
Boston on the 23d, after an absence of fifteen months and
thirteen days.

■II

i m

' ^■i

'I 1

CHAPTER VII.

CHARLES FRANCIS HALL.

The Explorations of C. F. Hall — Limited Resources — Cicnerous aid by Messrs. Grinnell,
Williams and Haven — Buries his Native Companion Kud-la-go — llolsteinborg — Destruc-
tion of the Rescue and the Expedition Boat — Inland Excursions — Frobisher Strait or
Bay — Hall's Second Arcuc Expedition — Sailing of the Monticello — Winter-Quarters at
Fort H<^^pe — King William's Land.

Few men have enrered upon a great undertaking with less
encouragement and means than did Charles Francis Hall,
the son of a blacksmith, an American of humble birth, without
influential friends or money of his own, to fit out an expedi-
tion to the Polar Seas. He left the port of New London,
Conn., within a few weeks of the sailing of Dr. Hayes, with-
out companions for his explorations.

The prevailing sympathy for the fate of Franklin had
kindled in Mr. Hall an enthusiasm for the search and for
Arctic exploration which failed him only with his life. Through
the nine years from the issue of the instructions to Lieutenant
DeHaven to the return of the British yacht Fox, under Mc-
Clintock, he had steadily devoted every spare hour to the
study of what might be done for the rescue. In February,
i860, he issued a circular in the nature of an appeal to his
fellow-citizens for aid in his proposed undertaking, which was
generously answered by Mr. Grinnell, of New York, and the
firm of Williams and Haven, of New London ; the latter
offering to convey the proposed expedition and its outfit free
of charge to Northumberland Inlet, and whenever desired to
give the same free passage home in any of its ships.

On the 29th day of May, i860, Hall left New London in
the ship George Henry. His only companion was the Esqui-
mau Kud-la-go, whom Captain Budington of the George
Henry had brought to the United States on his voyage in the
preceding autumn. His outfit consisted of one boat, one
sledge, some twelve hundred pounds of pemmican and meat-
biscuit, a small amount of ammunition, and a few nautical
(80)

A WINTER I

CIIART,I';s KRANCIS II.M,I,.

instruments and therniomclcrs. The. shij) did not arrive at
Holstcinbori; bcfori; die 7th of July. Hall tnct widi his first
and serious loss in the dcadi of Kudda-go before cnterinir the
iiarbor. Apparently in good health when leaving New Lon-
don, the native had contracted a severe disease whilst passing
through the fogs on the Newfoundland banks, and rapidly
failed in health. His last words were, Tcik-ko-scko? Teik-ko-
scko? (Do you see ice? Do you see ice?) This he inces-
santly asked, thinking he might be near his home. He died
about three hundr'^d miles from it, and was buried in the sea.
On July 30 the George Henry was within three miles of
" Sanderson's Tower," on the west side of the entrance to

A WINTER EXPERIENCE IN THE ARCTIC REGION-CAPTAIN PHIPPS' SHIPS.

Northumberland Inlet ; August 8'.h the barque reached her
anchorage at Ookoolear, the Esquimau name for what has
since been known as Cornelius Grinnell Bay.

Before entering the bay, a runaway boat's crew from the
whaler Ansell Gibbs, of New Bedford, was hailed on their
southward course home. They stated that on account of bad
treatment they had deserted from the ship at Kingaite in
Northumberland Sound, and had run the distance from that
place, two hundred and fifty miles, in less than three days.
Captain Budington relieved their extreme hunger, and in pity
for the necessities of the deserters furnished some supplies
for their perilous voyage, which, according to information re-

■j/.ii

L«.i

IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

1.0

I.I

1^128 |2.5

kuu

III 1.8

1.25

1.4 1.6

►

Photographic

Sciences

Corporation

23 WEST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580

(716) 872-4503

^\^^

41^

ARCTIC EXI'LORATIONS.

l!l

Mli

III!

ceived two years afterward, they succeeded in effecting to the
Labrador coast.

Tlie first impression made by the natives around the bay
was of a favorable character, especially in reference to their
good nature. In noting his impressions Hall quotes from the
reviewer of an Arctic book a reference to the Esquimau
race, as being " sin((uiar composite beings" — a link between
Saxons and seals — Iiybrids putting the seals' bodies into their
own, and then encasing their skins in the seals, thus walking
to and fro, a compound formation. A transverse section
would discover them to be stratified like a roly-poly pudding,
only instead of jam and paste, if their layers were noted on
a perpendicular scale, they would range after this fashion :
first of all, seal, then biped-seal in the centre with biped, then
seal again at the bottom. Yet, singularly enough, these sav-
ages are cheerful, and really seem to have great capacity for
enjoyment. Though in the coldest and most uncomfortable
dens of the earth, they are ever on thi; grin, whatever befalls
them. When they see a white man and his knick-knacks,
they grin. They grin when thtjy rub their noses with snow,
when they blow their fingers, when they lubricate their hides
inside and out with the fat of the seal. The good-natured-
ness referred to here was indorsed by Hall from the outset
of his acquaintance with the natives ; their other good points
as well as defects were, as would be expected, impressed upon
him with differing experiences and judgments throughout his
years of sojourn. Quite a number of the people frequented
the barque ; among them the wife of Kud-la-go, who had
heard on shore of her husband's death, and whose tears
flowed fast when she saw the treasures which the deceased
had gathered in the States for her and his little child.

On die 1 6th the two ships sailed for Nu-gum-mi-uke, their
intended winter-quarters. Before sailing two other whalers,
the Black Eagle and the Georgianna, had come in from
another whaling ground. The harbor entered by the George
Henry was not easy of access, but safe ; Hall gave it the new
name of Cyrus W. Field Bay, which it retains.

On the 2 1 St the Rescue was sent by the captain to examine
the availability for a fishing-depot of an inlet on the other
side of the bay, and Hall accompanied it, making his first
visit to the scene of the landings of the voyagers under old
Sir Martin Frobisher, three centuries before. Here he made

iii

CHARLES FRANCIS HALL.

their

.1,

amine
other
; first
■er old
made

discoveries of value, and here he lost his expedition boat,
the only means on which he could rely for the prosecution of
his westward journey ings.

The gale which brought these disasters was a severe one.
Three vessels, tiie Barque, the Rescue, and the whaler
Georgianna were anchored near each other in the bay Septem-
ber 27th, when the storm began ; it increased by 1 1 v. m. to
a iiurricane. The Rescue, after dragging for some hours,
dashed upon the breakers, a total wreck; the Georgianna
struck heavily on the lee shore.

Hall's boat was driven high upon the rocks, nothing being

A VISrr TO THE ESQUIMAUX.

afterward found of her except her stern-post ; but before the
howl of the tempest ended, he was asking of Captain Bud-
ington the loan of a whale-boat to replace his loss : he was
unable to secure one.

With a party of Esquimaux he visited Captain Parker, of the
True Love, an old whaler of forty-five years' Arctic expe-
rience, and, explaining to him his plans and the loss of his ex-
pedition boat, received the promise of one additional to the
whale-boat which he hoped to get from the George Henry
for his westward voyage. The party were piloted through a
passage from which no opening to the ship could be seen by
the woman Nik-u-jar, who, knowing every channel and inlet

ARCTIC EXl'LOKATIONS.

\ ^

within two hundred miles of the anchorage, and seated on the
logi^^erhead of the boat, with her pretty infant in her hood at
the hack of her neck, steered directly to the spot. Unfortu-
nately the True Love, a few days afterward, being driven
from her anchorage by a gale, went off to sea, and Hall was
thus disappointed both in the loan of the boat, and even in
the opportunity of sending letters home.

His original plans were finally arrested, and his attention
was given during the stay of the Barque only to the language
and habits of the people, to observations of natural phe-
nomena, and to the discoveries of the Frobisher remains, and
the location of the old-attempted settlements under that ex-
plorer.

Within the month following the loss of the boat, the native,
Ebierbing (afterward called Joe), with his wife, Too-koo-litoo
(Hannah), came to the cabin of the whaler. Joe had recendy
piloted to the bay the True Love and the Lady Celia, through
a chaimel more than one hundred and twenty miles long, be-
hind a line of islands facing the sea. Too-koo-litoo at once
impressed Hall with an expectation of valuable assistance
from her, as she as well as her husband appeared to be intel-
ligent, and spoke English quite fluently. They had acquired
this from a residence of twenty months in England. Hannah
promptly set herself to learning to read under Hall's teachinjr.

November 19th, the ice from the head of the bay began to
bear down upon the ship, and by the 6th of the month fol-
lowing she was secured in winter-quarters. Mr. Hall, havinjr
now acquired some knowledge of the native language, and
having the company of the two natives just named, with a
third, Koodloo, a relative of a woman whom he had befriended
when dying, he thought himself ready for the discomforts of
an Arctic journey. His sledge was loaded for a team of ten
dogs, with a fair outfit of clothing, provisions, and sleeping
comforts; his telescope, sextant, thermometer, and marine
glass ; a rifle, with ammunition ; a Bowditch nautical alma-
nac, and other books. Too-koo-litoo at first led the way,
tracking for the dogs, which Ebierbing managed well ; but, on
nearing the frozen waters of the ocean, where it was neces-
sary to lower the sledge to the ice, the dogs were detached,
while the woman, whip in hand, held on by the traces, which
were from twenty to thirty feet long. The difficulty of the
outgoing tide being overcome, the party, under the same

CHARLES FRANCIS HALL.

leader, again made some six miles over the ice, and finding
crood material for building a snow-house, encamped. The
fitting up of the igloo — always the work of the igloo wif(^ —
was done by first placing the stone lamp in its proper position,
trimming it, and setting over it a kettle of snow ; then placing
boards upon the snow-platforms for beds, and spreading over
tliem the canvas, containing some pieces of a dry hrub, gath-
ered for this purpose, and on this the hik-too, or reindeer-skins ;
over the fire-lamp the wet clothing was hung, to be turned
during the night by the wife.

The journey was resumed in the morning. The course
was due north, but owing to the innumerable hummocks in
the ice it was not direct, and the party only made five "miles
during the day. It was expected that the journey would be
made in one day, but the obstacles were so great that the
second night found them far away from their destination.
To add to the complications a storm came up, and they had
just secured shelter when it burst upon them in all its fury,
in their ice aboae on the frozen sea. It continued all night
long, and on the third morning of their journey they found it
impossible to proceed, in the afternoon it was discovered
that the ice was breaking, and the water made its appearance
not more than ten rods from them. They became seriously
alarmed, and consulted as to whether they should attempt to
reach tlie land, which was three miles distant, or remain in
their quarters and take the chance of being carried out to
sea. They decided upon the . latter course, and eagerly
awaited the coming cf another day. The gale abated about
10 p. M., and in the morning the weather was favorable. Pro-
ceeding on their way, they had every difficulty to contend
with. The ice had given away in every direction. The snow
was very deep and treacherous, and it v/as with great diffi-
culty that the sledge could be moved so as to guard it against
falling into some snow-covered ice-crack. The dogs also
were in a starving condition. Each member of the party took
the lead by turns, to guard against the dangers which beset
them, and to find a track through the hummocks which met
them on all sides. By 2 r. m. the entire party were in such
an exhausted condition that they were compelled to halt and
partake of their now very slender stock of provisions. After
this they proceeded with renewed vigor, reaching the shore
ice in safety, and in a short time they were alongside of

Akirnc Kxi'L( )Ka tk )Ns.

Ufrarng's igloo (ice hut), built on the southwt^st side of
RojTcrs' Island, overlooking Cornelius Grinnell Bay.

()n the following day, January 15th, the explorations com-
menced. Rabbit tracks were discovered on the hills, and in
the distance were seen the prominent headlands noticed on
the first arrival of the ship. In the meantime the provisions
gave out, and the party found themselves without food or
light, with the thermometer 25° below zero. The natives
met with no success in hunting or seal-fishing, but brought to
the hut with them some black skin and kuang, which they had
obtaintid from a cache made the previous fall by the natives,
when the ship was in the bay. At noon next day a heavy
snowstorm set in, which continued nearly four days, confining
the party to the hut, and compelling them to live on raw
frozen black skin, kuang and seal.

On Sunday, the 20th, they v^ere in a sad state from actu:il
want of food. The weather continued so forbiddintj that noth-
ing could be obtained by hunting. At 8 o'clock in the morn-
ing, Mr. Hall and Koodloo started to return to the ship with
a sledge, and twelve nearly starved dogs. A speedy trip was
anticipated, but the difficulties encountered were so great that
Ebierbing followed them on snow shoes, and taking his place
sent Mr. Hall back to the huts to await their return. The
Kupply of food was exhausted without any apparent prospect
of obtaining a supply. Christmas eve found the party with
nothing left but a piece of black skin, one and a quarter inch
wide, two inches long, and three-quarters of an inch thick.
During the night one of the natives came to the hut with
some choice morsels cut from a seal which he had just caught,
but he had no sooner entered than a starving dog, which had
been allowed to sleep in the hut over night, sprang at the
meat and ate a fair share of it. Before the party recovered
from their surprise, the remaining hungry dogs made a rush
from the outside and devoured the remainder. The next
morning Ebierbing arrived from the ship with supplies, and a.
seal weighing at least two hundred pounds, thereby raising
the siege of starvation by supplying the wants of all. A
letter from one of the officers of the ship stated that the ex-
ploring party had been given up for lost in the great storm
which they encountered on their journey.

In speaking of the Innuit people, Mr. Hall says they are
noted chiefly for their thoughtlessness and improvicience.

CHAKLKS KUANCIS IIAl.I,

When tlicy have an abundant supply of food they devour it
all as fast as they can without coiisiderincr that on the Jay
follovvihg they may he in absolute want, and no course of
reasoning can induce them to change in this respect.

February i6th Mr. Hall once more started on an exploring
expedition, arriving the same afternoon at Clark's Harbor,
and proceeding at once to Allen's Island, where he remained
two days at Ugarng's i^/oo, curiously watching the various

START OF A SLEDGE EXPEDITION.

efforts made to sustain and enjoy life by the singular people
of the north. He spent forty-two nights in an igloo, living
with the natives most of the time on their food according to
their own customs, and said he had no regrets in looking
back upon his experience, but on the contrary enjoyed his
life so spent as well as he did under the most favorable cir-
cumstances. On the 2 1 St he bade adieu to his Innuit friends
and started on his return to the ship, accompanied by Ebier-
bing, Ugarng and Kunniu, takini^^ Avith them the sledge and

».

ARCllC EXl'U)l<ATIONS.

dogs. The journey was devoid c( accident or excitement,
and the party reached the sliip on the evening of the same
day.

Hall's return from this first voyage was now compelled by
the release of the ship, the whaling season of the year having
ended. He had acquired some useful knowledge of Esqui-
mau life and language, the further in which he advanced the
more he hoped to turn it to advantage on a renewed voyage.
August 9th the George Henry took a final leave of the
inmates of the bay, a crowd of whom surrounded her in their
Kias and Oo-mi^s, waving their partings and shouting their
Ter-bou-e-tic (farewell).

HUDSON STRAIT. .

Without any special incident the George Henry reached
New London September 13th, 1862.

On the first day of July, 1864, Mr. Hall sailed from New
London in the whaler Monticello, Captain G. A. Chapel, of
New York, accompanied by the tender Helen F.

On the 28th Hudson Straits were entered and the ship
shaped her course for Resolution Island. The ship's course
across the bay was ended on the 20th day of August by her
anchoring at Depot Island.

But the landing here was a grievous disappointment to the
explorer. He had hoped to do some good surveying work
on Marble Island, the original destination of the two ships,
and perhaps to discover the remains of the most unfortunate

CIIAKLKS I'KANCIS HALL

expedition, under Knight and Barlow, which perished there
in I 719. Mate Chester, who accompanied the party to i\w.
island, estimated the weight of Hall's boat and outfit at only
one thousand four hundred pounds. It was twenty-eijdit
feet long, with a five feet ten inch beam, and of but twenty-
six inches depth, when tiilly loaded.

The whaler left the Jiarbor on her first cruise of the season,
and Hall began his five years' Arctic life ; a tent was erected
and some observations made for position.

He had now the offer of an assistant in a Mr. Rudolph,
one of the crew of a whaler which had come in ; and as the
man had spent one winter among the Innuits, was recom-
mended by the mate of the ship, and declared himself ready
to go on the proposed journey, two or three years inland, he
was accepted after being fully told the darkest side of the
experience he might be called to pass through. On the 29di
the terfder Helen F. sailed with the party of four for Wager
River, and the next day the captain landed at Whale Point,
which he believed on the river ; by Hall's observations after-
wards it proved to be forty miles south of the point of the
captain's reckoning. This was a second and yet more
grievous disappointment, and it caused the loss of a whole
year to the objects in view ; for, had the landing been on the
river, the journey to Repulse Bay could have been easily
made before the season closed, and winter-quarters secured
there with preparations for the spring journey. But there
,vas no correcting the error. Reaching a little harbor Hall
and Rudolph went waist-deep in the water to haul the boat
ashore, and a cache was soon made for stores. The posi-
tion of this "first encampment" was lat. 64° 35' N., long. 87°

33' W.

A single wliite man as a leader, with a companion who
soon proved useless as an assistant, a desolate region, and
winter almost at hand ! But here was a man of brave heart
and of experience. Up the shallow Welcome of Sir Thomas
Rowe the little craft now coasted, piloted by the Esquimau,
Ebierbing (Joe), on whom the party were for a long season
to be dependent for their steersman as well as hunter. Hall
wrote to Chapel that American whalers who had opened up
the fishing within the currents and eddies of the Welcome must
be good navigators ; for the Sylvia, drawing about eighteen
inches, often touched on her course, and no channel could be

ARCnC KXI'LOKATIONS.

found. After an advance of Init a (v.w mWc.s Joe siLjluetl a
//t/>i7c (skin-tent), and soon aftcM'ward a nntive came toward
:lie boat, 14 un in hand, A sliarp pull, and a leap from the
l)ow, and Hall had made his first new friend in Oue/a, a
native.

The natives advised Hall that he could noi reach Repulse
Hay at that late season of thi; year; that he would not find
any Innuits th(!re, as tlujy always spent the winter elsewhenr
t» kill the seal and walrus ; and that if he could «j;^et there he
would be too late to kill any Tuk-too. They would go them-
selves to the bay next season, and then to Neit-chi-lle, and it
lie would spend the winter at Noo-wook, they would give
him all the Tuk-too, walrus, seal anil bear-meat needed, rein-
deer furs and assistance. He decided of necessity to stay
with them.

The 15 th of September was a day of gale. The Welcome
was lashed into fury by the north wind, which drove (at inland
everything like t^ame. On the going down of the sea Hall
and Rudolph, with Ar-too-a and Joe, went out in swift pursuit
of an ook-irook which had been seen drifting down, seem-
ingly aslee]> ; but the cautious seal waked at tiie sound of the
oars and disappeared.

With the rapid chanLje of the season the ni 'hts besfan to
be cold, ice was forming on the fresh-water lakes, and there
were signs of an appioacliing snow-storm. A sheltered place
for the tupiks becam<; a necessity. On the 18th Hall's jour-
nal says: "It has been moving-day with us, and an interest-
ing picture might have been seen — the Innuits and the two
Kod-lu-nas, with packs on our backs, tVamping along towards
our destined new home. Old Mother Ook-bar-loo had for
her pack a monstrous roll of reindeer-skins, which was topped
with kettles anil pans and various little instrument:i used by
Innuits in their domestic affairs, while in her hand she carried
spears and poles and other things that need not be mentioned
here. Ar-too-a had for his pack his tent and pole, his gun
and et ceteras in his hand. His wife had a hui^fe roll of rein-
deer-skins and other things, much of the character of Ook-
bar-loo's. The dogs had saddle-bags, and topping them were
pannikins and such varied things as are always to be found
in Innuit use. Ebierbing had for his pack our tent and some
five or six tent-poles, while in his hands he carried his gun.
Charley Rudolph had a large roll of reindeer-skins, carrying

vard
\ the
la, a

find

re Ik;

hem-

ind it
give
rein-

) stay

Icome
inland
a Hall
mrsuit
seem-
of the

IS gun.
irrying

SHOOTING SEALS.

(5«)

' \.<.'

4 ! ;'^'

\ ,

' .fn'i^

' ! ' '■

■ f§: ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS

also numerous tcnt-pnlcs. Too-koo-litoo had deerskins, and
in her hands various things. I carried on my shoulder two
rilles and one }^un, each in covers ; under one arm my com
pass tripod, and in one hand my HttU; basket, which held m\
pet Ward chronometer, and in the other my trunk of instru-
ments."

The Innuits then brought out from their deposits the rein
deer-skins cached in the summer. The weight of these, borne
by the women, was as much as one hundred pounds to each.
At their distribution the women were allowed to choose the
best.

Tlie ground was now covered with snow, the lakes bore a
man's weight, and the heavy weatht;r on the coast drove the
game inland. Flocks of tin; J^lanntj^an ( snow-partridges )
were found after each snowfall. In midwinter, at a dis-
tance of ten feet, they are scarcely distinguishable from th(
snow.

By the help of Ou-e-la, Armou and Joe, Hall established
himself in his fu'st winter-quarters. He says of his igloo, of
ten feet only in diameter, that his house was a building with-
out a corner and without props or braces ; the wall, roof and
door a unity, yet so strong as to defy the power of the fiercest
Arctic gales. Two months afterwards he wrote . " I exchanged
tent for snow-house, ami have been all the time as comfortabl*
as I ever have been in my life. You would be quite interested
in taking a walk through my winter-quarters; one main ioloo
for myself and Esquimaux friends, and three others, all joined
to the main, for storehouses. A low, crook(;d passage-way
of fifty feet in length leads into our dwelHng."

In this igloo Mr. Hall spent the greater part of the winter.
The next summer he explored the North Pole River, near
the Fort Hope of Dr. Rae. This was to be his winter-quar-
ters, in which he was to prepare for his sledge journey next
season to the west. His two close companions, Joe and Too-
koo-litoo (Hannah), remained in his igloo.

Excepting occasionally a few salmon or perhaps a dozen
partridges, no provision was available during the severe
winter months but the deer-meat. To visit the deposits was
then a matter of frequency, and often a work of severe expo-
sure and labor ; nor, because of the scarcity of fuel, was it
often practicable to have much cooking done.

A very large number of deer had been deposited ; in Sep-

all

fllAkl.KS KKANCIS MALI,.

and

two
com
.1 nn

strii-

rcin
joriK
each,
le thi'

)ore a

^c the
idges )
a dis
m th(

3lishccl

loo, of

ir with-

)of and

lercest

langc'd
rtabl'
rested

|n /;'/<'('
joineil
re-way

kvinter.
|r, near
r-quar-
[y next
Id Too-

dozeii
I severe
lits was

expo-
Iwas it

n Sep-

tember as many as ninety-three, in the latter part of which
month Hall estimated that as many as a thousand passed in
one day; in November fifty more were cached: and a few
w(;re seen as late as January 27th. Th(!y did not again
appear until'the nwA of Marcli, whim the does that were with,
young began their migration.

Hall's share in the exposures, hibors, and privations of the
season was again of a severely trying character. On one
visit to his favorite deer-pass, where he had been accustomed
to watch behind a stone wall, he endeavored with Joe to cache
five that they had killed the day previous, and within the
weary hours of piling up over them rock and stone was over-
tai<cn by a fierce storm of sharp, cutting, blinding snow on
the wings of the gale — enough, ne said, to make one exclaim :
" None but devils should be doomed to such a punishment."
Kntering the hut on their return, each seemed to the other
and to 'I'oo-koo-litoo a pillar of snow, until for a long time
they had pounded and threshed their native dresses. On
another visit he had the misfortune to find that a deposit
made six feet above the river level had been swept by a six-
clays' gale and storm. The main supply of food must, how-
ever, be from these deposits. At times, however, his store-
house was well filled, and a season of feasting ensued ; and as
often, through a failure in recovering th'- deposits, or through
the caprice of the Innuits, he was placed on short rations.
His journal of January 21st tells the following: "I arise
usually between seven and eight in the morning, and after
smoking a little, cut a few chips from whatever ''ttle choice
block of venison I may happen to have, and eat the same raw
and hard-frozen. As eating venison alone is dry work unless
one has tood-noo, I eat seal-blubber, which is old, of strong
color, and of strong old cheese-taste."

The journals of November have interesting notes also of
refraction and parhelia. At 10 hrs. 12 min. 41 sec. mean
time of Fort Hope, the sun's lower limb was a half degree
above the sea horizon ; Southampton Island by refraction
loomed up from ten to thirty minutes of arc above it, although
at no other time visible from Hail's place of observation,
opposite Rae's Beacon Hill. Cape Frigid, forty-seven geo-
j^raphical miles distant, was visible, and the coast lines yet
farther south, while a zone of about five degrees in width
from the horizon upward was of resplendent colors extending

!ii|

i t

I !

ARCTIC KXI'I.OKATIONS.

around the heavens, the half-circle opposite the sun being the
more brilliant. At sunset the phenomenon renewed itself.
A mock sun on the 30th deceived the untutored natives.

During- the last of the winter of 1865 and the beginning o{
the spring following, estrangements from the "good feeling
which had existed between the white man and the natives
showed themselves to a degree producing some apprehen
sion of personal danger. IJut Hall succeeded in preservin<^
his control over the restless spirits of Ou-e-la, Ar-mou, and
their people. His chief dependence for securing this was his
known connection with the whalers, whose return was now
again to be expected in the bay, and, next to this, his frequent
supplies of tobacco. Happily the estrangements were not
serious. Both these chiefs had committed themselves and
their people to the promise of assistance on his journey
toward King William Land, and he was dependent on this
promise.

Ar-mou made for him a complete chart of the coasts he had
visited, embracing a line from Ponds Bay to Fo;t Churchill.
a distance of 966 nautical miles — a map rendering valuable
aid to the explorer."

Ha'l's occupations at Fort Hope had been the preparing
the necessary provision:^, and stores for this, first westward
advance. March 30th, 1866, his native friends, Ar-mou, See-
gar, Ar-goo-moo-too-lik, and Ou-e-la, gave proof of renewed
friendship by the loan of their dogs ; this was the more pleas-
ing, as during the winter he had almost despaired of securing

. ii|iii||

*In the Fo> tni::;hlly Reiinv, for Septemher, 1880, Mr. Francis Dalton, F. R. S., in an
article under the heading (if " Mental Imagery," .says: "The Esquimaux arc geographers by
instinct, and appear to see vast tracts of country mapped out in their heads." From tlie
multitude of illustrations of tlieir map-drawing junvers, I will select one from those included
\w the joiirr.als of Captain Hall, at p.ige 224, which were published last year by the United
States government under the editorship of Trofessor J. E. Nourse. It is the fac-siniile of a
chart drawn by an Esquimau, who was a thorough barbarian in the accepted sense of the
word ; that is to say, he spoke no Innguage exccjit his own uncouth tungue. He was wholly
uneducated :iccording to our modern ideas, and he lived in what we should call a strange
fashion. This man drew from memory a chart of the region overwiiich he had at one time
or another gone in a (.anoe. It extended from Pond's Hay, in latitude 73°, to Fori Cliurcliill,
in latitude 58° 44', over a distance in a str.night line of more than 960 to i,i(X) English
miles, the toast being so indented by arms of the sea that its length is .six times as great.
On the C(.mparing this chart (rough Esquimau outline) with the admiralty chart of 1S70,
their accordance is remark ible. 1 have seen many route-maps made by travellers in [i.ist
years, when the scientific ex])loralion of the world was much less advanced than it is now,
and I c-n confidently say that 1 have never known of any traveller, white, brown, or black,
civilized or uncivilized, in Africa, Asia, or Australia, who. being unprovided with instru-
ments, and trusting to his memory alone, has producetl a chart conionrable in extent and
accuracy to this barbarous Esquimau.

Ilie

■

lie

Ifl

11,

It.

ist

■V,

lu-

(95)

ir.

\ 1

ll
■1 :

It. ■

■ :

, ; : 1 '

■ \

j'i

i ll

I' '<

? I!

i I 'm'

;• >f I

! i'

1 I ■

i •■: !

ARCVIC KXI'LORATIONS.

a team, his own stock consisting of " but two female dogs,
equal to one good dog, and two puppie?, equal to a quarter
of a good dog." The price at which one had been held was
not lower than a double-barrelled gun.

Ebierbing, Ar-moo, and Nu-ker-zhoo, with their families,
and the young native, She-nuk-shoo, made up his party ; ail
the others had gone off from the encampment. The start
was made with the wind fresh from the north-northwest and
the temperature 50° below frost point, and the gale became
very severe, beating fiercely and directly in the face of one
who was poorly prepared to bear it, from his having eaten
little or no food for several days. In writing of this, he says
there had been before him an abundance of such as he would
have relished, but he had been so busy in writing and so
enwrapped in anxieties that he had little or no appetite.

Delays from different sources increased, the Innuits some-
times pleading that they must turn aside for a musk-ox hunt,
and then rest the whole of the day following. The average
travel was scarcely more than from two to three miles per
day, the party nearing Cape Weynton on the south side of
Colville Bay at the close of the twenty-eighth day — a journey
made by Dr. Rae in '54, without a dog-team, in five days.

Here Mr. Hall stored a goodly quantity of provisions for a
journey he had resolved to attempt with the aid of white men,
wliom he hoped to secure from the whalers in the coming
spring, and on the 23d of May was safe again in his old camp-
ing-ground of Beacon Hill. In February, 1867, he set out for
Igloolik, to buy some dogs for his intended sledge-journey,
which he reached on the 26th. Here he purchased fourteen
dogs, and after a journey of fifty-two days, again returned to
Beacon Hill ; but then the whaling season was open, and he
was unable to secure the necessary men. In September he
went into winter-quarters again, and on March 23d he set
out with his two Esquimaux, a white man, Sailor, and the
native, Papesooa, for King William Land. After many hard-
ships he reached Todd's Island, where he recovered from
several Innuits different articles which had formerly belonged
to (Jrozier's party, of Sir John Franklin's expedition.

ihe final return journey was now begun. All the natives
who had gone with Hall were anxious to be safe back at
Repulse Bay, Nu-ker-zhoo declaring that unless they started
back in four days, the ice and snow would be ofif the sea, and

SNOW

XIIV

CHAPTER VIII.

•t:

THE POLAUIS EXPEDITION OF 1 87 1.

Death and Burial of Captain Hall — The Polaris Leaves the Harbor and Drifts South — Thw
Separation — Drift on the Floe — Rescue by the Tigress — Rescue of the Polaris party by
the Ravenscraig.

In 1870 the Congress of the United States appropriated the
sum of ^50,000 for an expedition to the North Pole, and eight
days afterward Captain Hall received a commission as com-
mander of the same.

The vessel selected was the steamer Periwinkle, a tug
which had seen some service in tlie war of the rebellion ; her
burden was 387 tons. After being newly and heavily tim
bered and strengthened in her side-planking, the bottom was
thoroughly caulked, then double-planked, caulked, and cop-
pered. Everything else deemed necessary for safety and
comfort was also done with such care that "no vessel, even
if especially built, could have been better adapted to the ser-
vice." Launched at the Washington yard, April 25th, 1871,
she was named by Hall the Polaris, under which name she
sailed for New York, June loth, and, after further equipment
at the Brooklyn yard, proceeded to New London, June 29th,
and sailed for the Arctic zone July 3d.

Her complement of officers, including the scientific corps,
was: C. ¥. Hall, commander; S. O. Budington, sailing-
master ; George E. Tyson, assistant navigator ; H. C. Ches-
ter, mate ; William Morton, second mate ; Emil Schumann,
chief-engineer; A. A. Odell, assistant engineer; N. J. Coffin,
carpenter; Emil Bessels, surgeon, chief of scientific staff^; R.
W. D. Bryan, astronomer; Frederick Meyer, meteorologist.
The crew consisted of fourteen persons, and the two Es-
quimaux, Joe and Hannah, were again Hall's companions.

On June 29th, 1871, the Polaris steamed out of New Yorl<
harbor, and on the 13th of July reached St. John's, Newfound
land, where the governor and citizens extended to the expe

(98)

!!1

THE POLARIS ENTERING THE ICE.

(99)

lOO

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

dition a hearty welcome. From St. John's they proceeded up
Davis* Straits, and arrived at Holsteinbor<^, Greenland, on tht;
31st. They remained there purchasinjr doj^s, furs, and other
articles necessary, until the arrival of tlie transport Congress,
with additional stores and supplies ; after which, on August
17th, the journey to the pole was fairly commenced. Stops
were made at Upernavik and Kong-i-toke, for the purchase
of more dogs, and on the 2 2d, Tessuisak was reached, the
most ilorthern permanent settlement on the globe, being in
latitude 70° 30'.

When they were in Holsteinborg there war- a difference ol
opinion between Hall and his scientific associates as to the
course to be pursued. Hall's object was to reach the pole,
and to this he determined that all else should be subordinate.
The dispute was adjusted, and Hall's view prevailed. During
the three days they remained at Tessuisak he wrote a lengthy
despatch, showing tiiat all the party were in excellent spirits,
and full of hope, but this despatch did not reach the United
States for nearly a year.

On the 24th of August, 1871, the Polaris entered the
regions of perpetual ice and snow, and from that time until
the 30th of April, 1873, not a word was heard from the expe-
dition by the civilized world. When the Polaris left Tessuisak
she crossed the head of Melville Bay, passed Northumberland
Island, going through Smith's Sound. Meeting with very
little obstruction from the ice. she proceeded until she entered
what Kane, Morton, and Hayes pronounced the open polar
sea, but which proved to be but an expansion of the sound,
and to which the name of Kane Sea has since been given.
In a week they reac.ied their highest northern point, 82° 29'
by Hall's reckoning, and 82° 16' by Meyer's calculation, a
difference of about fifteen miles. On August 30th the chan-
nel, which had been named Robeson Strait, became blocked
with floating ice, through which it was found impossible to
make a passage. A small bay was found close by named
Refuge Harbor, in which Hall desired to take winter-
quarters. A consultation, however, decided against this, and
soon after the ice became master of the situation, drifting the
Polaris in a southerly direction for four days. The pack
opened on September 3d, and a cove was made to the east-
ward, which set into the Greenland shore. An immense
iceberg sheltered its mouth, and here it was determined to

THE rOLARIK EXPEDITION OF 1 87 1.

1 01

pass the winter. The cove is in latitude 80" 38' and was
named Polaris Bay, while the huge island of ice was desig-
nated Providenceberg. This point is about 200 miles north
of Kane's famous winter-quarters, and about three miles
north of the farthest point reached by Hayes.

Tlie iceberg was used as a mooring-place for the Polaris,
an observatory Vv^as at once established, scientific work was
coi.imenced immediately, and Hall began preparations for a
sledge-journey in the direction of the pole, wliich were soon
complc jd. On October loth he started with four sledges
and fourteen dogs, accompanied by Chester, the mate, and
die Esquimaux, Kbierbing and Hans. The expedition was
planned to last two weeks, one to go north, and the othe: in

HARBOR OF REFUGE— SMITHS SOUND.

which to return. On the evening of the 20th Hall wrote the
last words ever penned by him, which were a communication
to the Secretary of the Navy. It was a description of their
voyage up to the time of settling down in their winter-
quarters, and was full of words of hope and confidence in the
success of the expedition. A copy of the despatch was placed
in a pillar at Brevoort Cape, the northern headland of the
bay, where the encampment was made on the 21st of October,
187 1. The original, which was first read in Washington
nearly two years after it was written, showed conclusively that
he was confident of success, and, taken in connection with the
one written formerly, refuted the charges that the equipment
of the Polaris was incomplete. The expedition advanced

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ARCTIC KXl'l.dKATIONS.

north UMi days, makinsj^ six cnrampmcnts and proirrrssinq;
seventy miles, or ahoiit 83" 5' north. y\t that point tliere was
an appearance ol land still north of them, hut a elonil pre-
vented any observation wi'.ieii nould delinitcly settle the;
mattiM'. With the exception of a i^lacier on tlu; <'ast side of
the strait, commencinLT in latitnde 80" 30' north, the moun-
tains on all sides of Kcimieily Channel ami Kobeson Strait
were fre(! from snow and ice. Live sials, L;eese, ducks, musk-
cattle, rabbits. wolvt;s, toxes, bi-ars, partriii^cs, lemminL;s,
etc., were found in abundance. On the 13th, three days atler
they started, the Arctic ninht set in, the thermometer theii
bein_L;' 7°.

'I'lu; return trip was made raj)idly. the party reaching iIk;
Polaris in four days. I lall was apparently in liis usual health,
but the change from an o|)en-air temperature of from 15" to
20" below zero, to the atmosphere of tlu; cabin of 60° or 70°
above, hail a bad effect Ujion him, antl hv. partook of no re-
freshment except a cup of coffee. After intlulgini^ in a hot
spono(; bath, he ri;tiretl for the ni^^ht. In tiie mornin*^ his
condition had chanoetl for the worse, and he sufferetl much
from a burning- in the throat, and vumltins^". He steadily
j^rew worse for a week, and to the complications were added
partial paralysis and delirium. H(,' j)artially recovered, and
made an attempt to resume his woi k, believing;- that in a few
d:iys he would be completely restored to health. In this Jic
was doomed to disappointment, as on tht: nii^ht of November
8th he hatl a fresh attack, and was found in his cabin i)y
Tyson insensible, and breathing;" heavily. That night he
cUed, and three davs later he was laid in a shallow <'rave in
the frozen ground. The doctor pronouncetl the cause of
death to be apoplexy, but Mall believed that poison had been
placed in the cup of coffee which he drank, and in the delirium
which |)receded his death he imagined that every person who
went near him was endeavoring to kill him In regard to the
matter, the commission reported without a dissenting voice
that " the death of Captain Hall resulted naturally from
disease, without fault on the part of any one."

Physically, Hall was an exceptional man. His tenacity of
life and powers of endurance were far above those of ordinary
men. Above medium height, he was powerfully built, with
broad chest, muscular limbs, and a large; head. He was
remarkable for his temperate habits, and after his re*^urn from

I UK roi.AKis KxrKDirioN of 1871.

103

his second expedition, ixhv.r passini,' throiij^li the ordeal of an
yXrctic winter, a more robust man could not have been Ibund.
In the event of Hall's death the command was to fall upon
Uudinf^ton. The winter was passed in the usual manner in

liURlAL OF CAl'TAIN HALL.

that region, but no trouble was experienced from cold or
want of food. The scientific observations were made con-
stantly, and whenever it was possible to do so, the coast was
surveyed. Whenever the opportunity was favorable, the
Esquimaux hunted with success, and in this manner an abun-

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AUCriC KXI'l.(>UAri()N«.

ilaiUHM)!' skins was procured. TIic storerooms were also well
rillctl witli the skeletons ol animals ami l)inls, e|L,'L^s, ami niany
otlu;r curiosities of natur.il history. N<'ts and lines \V(T(; set,
but no lish eouM Ix' euiijlit. Considirrahle. driftwood was
picki'd up, uhiili had evidently foumi its way there from a
warmer climate;.

A fierce i^mIc from the northeast, about two weeks after tlu;
death of 1 lall, drove the Polaris from her mooriiii^s, anil she
drai;^!^eil her anchors until slu; kuuled ai^ainst the icelxTL; al
the mouth of the cove, where she was secured, and remaineil
there until Jun(! followim^. Later she was tlriven farther oa
tlie b-rj; by pack-ice, where her prow remaininl fast, while the
stern moved up and down, as inlluenced by the tides. This
position straineil the stern-pit;ce and started a portion ol tiie
piankini;', so that when sh(« once more settled in her native
element it was fouiul ^K\l she leaked considerably. Howev(T,
when emptied onci; by tin; steam-j)umps, it was an i^asy
matter to keej) the hold clear by working a few minutes cacli
hour.

Chester and Tyson, under orders from Budini^ton, undcT-
took a boat ex[)eililion early in Junt;. The orders were to
jT^o as far as they could up the shore. The expedition was a
failure. One boat was crushed by the ice almost at the hour
oi starting-. Its place was supj)lied by the canvas boat, but
they failed .0 reach a j)oint as far north as that reached by
Hall in his sle«.lL]^e-journey. They remained there until the
middle of July. 1S72. but before the ice opened they were
recalled by Builington, and the party was compelled to
abandon the boats, and make their way back to the steamer
overland. Budini^ton had determined to return home as
soon as the ice would leave iiim at liberty to do so, and under
existing- circumstances tlrlr. s("enied the wiser course, althouirh
it is not believed that had Hall been living he would have
consented to it.

The ice left the Polaris free early in August, and she
steamed slowly down the western shore. At the close of the;
first day she was fastened in the ice, and was in a very dan-
gerous position. In latitude So° 2' she was made fast to a
floe on the i 6th, which drifted her hither and thither in Smith's
Sound for two months, during which time not more than
twelve miles were qrained to the south, brinirinof her in the
neighborhood of Northumberland Island, in latitude 79° 53'.

RESCUE OF CAPT. GEO. E. TYSON AND PARTY.

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A|)|in lu'iitlinj'. tl.mjMT, |iinvisinii', wru- (.iiii' I on «l. (I,, a
«;nn.i'' '.Ih-IIi'I vv.is rirjlrd mi iht- irr, and iv<iy |iri|iai.itii>ii
in,t«l< !•>! .1 speedy .tliaMilnlliiHiil (>i die ve<.'.e| f.lmnld il Ix
,«»mi' net c"i'..ii y.

/\ \eiy '.eveie j;;ile sel in (mm die '.niilh nn < >< Inlx i l',lll.
riie it e |)i(".'.ed ill under die '.liiit, .iiid '.li< w.i . .1. |ii,dl\ lilird
III! ol the water and lliiuwn on li>r It* am end. on die i* >■.
r((iMsi<»n'. .ind '.lores were tliiowii ovei. and under (udeis
.iIhmiI Ii.iII the new proreeded to < any them to a inoie mi um*
|i|a((-. riie lioal'. h.id lieen loweird.and in tin- middle nl the
iii'.'ht, in the midst ol a leriilK storm, the I'niaii . hiol.r hmse
and iiniiiethately di.appe.ired, havilli; on the ice \\\c nilielrrn
|Hi>,oiis who h;i<l );on<- lh«ie to save ih«- pKJvisi.Mr., at wlm h
ihey l;il)<>i-e<l ;ill iii<dit. In the moiniii'; they ;iliempied in
reai h ihe shore, Iml laih'd. The rnl.nis was .(en (hinn;; ih'-
day under sail and sleain, l>iit soon ( haiii'ed hei (oni .'\ ,ind
<li'..ippe.ired. Another olimpse ol her w.is (aihdil ,1 hw
lioiiis Liter, luit she a;;ain disappeared, aiid ihey veiy n.ihir
ally Ixii'ved that they li.id lieen piiip'»sr|\ al».iii(''>ii. il.

The hardships endured by those who were h,! 1 jion tin;
i(c are heyoiKJ description. I'or i<>'^ days die-.e nmeleen
men, women, and thiidren drille<l on IJo.iliii;; i< e thioiivh an
Arrlie winter, at lii«' men y ol wind .ind water. I lie lioe on
whit h they loimd themselves on hsiviii;; llie ship w.i . soon
shiillered, and die parly lonnd tJKinselves disliihnted 011
«lillereiil pieces of ice. 'I In-y had two lio.ils, with wlii( h diey
linally siicce<'ded in ^»;uherin^ all upon the priiK ip.d I'oe,
when" they remained more dead ih.in .dive all nielli. Several
alleinpls were maihr to reach th(* shore. The doo-: .ind
sledges wen; put in readiness, and «'ach atlem|)t to <-s(;ipf;
proved a dismal laihirc. When il was seen that there u.is no
prospect ol reaching; tlu? shore snowdionses went Ixiilt, and
(•verythin*^ possible was done; to mak<' iIk; tiin(r pass com-
tortahly and pleasantly. Land was seen for several days, hut
us the weather was unfavorable for taking observation!,, it
a)uld not In* ntcoi^ni/ed. Sonuttimes they w(rr(; in a condition
boriltM'ins^on starvation, and saw death starin«^^ th(Mn in tin; lace.
Cannibalism was thought of, but each time food was furnished
in time to sav(; them.

Meyer succeeded in takinij an observation on New Year's
Kve, and found they were in latitude 72° 10', lonL,Mtude 60*"'
40'; showinj; that in nine weeks they had drifted southward

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ARCTIC EXPLORA rrONS.

about 525 miles. This was cheerintr^ news, thoiijrh the ther-
mometer stood 39° below zero. This was rarly in January.
In February tliey encountered several storms, and very cold
weather. The close of the month founil them nearly out ot
provisions, but early in March they caught some seals, and
had footl in abundance. Immense icebergs surrounded the
lloe, and it was soon crackim; and splitting- with as much
noise as is madt; by artillery and musketry in battle. Kver\ -
thinj^ was brok(;n in i)ieces. and the party stuck to the laroost
piece. On the last day of March an observation showed them
to be in latitude 59° 41', and that durino the last five days
thev h;ul drifted at the rate of twenty-three miles per dav.
At that time their piece of ice had o^rown much smaller, ami
the\- were in c'^ar water, no other ice beino* in sioht.

The month of Ai)ril came in with a tjrritic storm, ami it
became evidci.u that they must take refui^e in the boat. They
<;ot under way early in the morninsr, but found their cratt
leaking badly, and loaded too deep to carry th(!m. Meat and
clothes were thrown overboard, and nothino" was carried but
a tent, a frv skins for covering, and a little bread and pemmi-
can. About fifteen miles were made in a southerly direction,
when a iandino- was made to liohten the boat. The tent was
pitcJKxl, and the party remained all night, altliouoh the ice was
cracking and breaking up all around them. The voyage was
resumed again in the morning, but had only proceeded about
two hours before they encountered a gale. They had a luiin-
ber of narrow escapes before a piece of ice large iMiough to
land upon could be found; upon landing the boat was rapidly
makino- \vat(-'r. and when cleared a oreat hole was founil in
her side. Repairs were made as soon as possible, and they
took to the water, only to find themselves again surroundcil
by ice in such a manner that they were compelled to seek
retugc; on a t1oe. Gale succeeded gale, and as the ice con-
tinued to break they were constantly removing their thin^js
to a new centre. On the night of the 7th it broke again,
carrying with it the boat, the kayak, and Mr. Meyer. J'or a
time it seemed as though all were lost. The ice kept closiii>;
in on them and they were without hope of saving the boats
or their unfortimate companion. When daylight arrived an
attempt was made to rescue them, all the party, except two,
venturing away on the ice. All who ventured reached the
boat in safety, and with much difficulty she was taken back,

TIIK rOLAKlS EXTKniTlON OF 1871.

107

and Mt'yor was saved. The kayak was then secured in a
similar manner. I'he tent was taken down and erected
a!;ain on the centre of what had then become a small piece
ot ice, and a snow hut was constructed at its side. A^ain the
wiiul commenced blowino- a i^ale, and preparations were made
10 lake to the boat. They were literally washed out of the
tent and snow hut. The women and children were plr^ced in
the boat without a dry sjiot, and without so much as a piece of
fresh vvater ice to eat. The storm soon abateil, howexcr. and
the tent was pitched once more. The six months of the ^•oyal;e
on the ice were completi'd April 1 6th. At that time they
were still without any prospect of a rescue, and starvation
was starini;- them in the face. Seals were in si^ht all around
them, but none could be caught. Only a few days* j)rovisions
were left, and cannibalism was starino- them in the face. On
the i8th a small hole was discovered in the ice some distance
ofl', from which a seal large enough for three da)s' provisions
was secured, and divided equally among the party. On the
20th a sea struck the ice, and carrietl awav evervthinij which
was loose upon it. This was repeated every fifteen minutes,
and it kept all busy looking for a place which would enable
them to successfully withstand the next shock.

The agony of susp.ense continued ten days longer, and in
that brief space were crowded many perilous adventures,
which were a severe tax on the endurance of the sufferers.
An observation showed that they were in latitude 53° 57', a
distance of 1,875 iiiil<-'s in a straight line south from the point
\vher(; they started. Kach day passed as did its predecessor,
the; sufferers being all wet and hungrv. Sometimes they
came within sioht of land, but were alwavs driven off again.
Meyer seemed to fare worst of all, and his chances for surviv-
ing more than a few days longer wert' considered slentler,
ahhougli all were in a deplorable coiulition, and had suffered
indescribable tortures. Skins that had been tanned and
saved for clothing were devoun^d as a daintv morsel, but
even this did not last long, and on April 26th they found
themselves without a morsel of food. On that day a bear
was tliscovered on the ice, moving toward them. The I'^squi-
maux, Joe and Hans, took their guns, and at once went to
meet it, the result being that the bear, which came after a
meal, was soon the j-ubstance of one. That night another
gale sprung up, accompanii'd by heavy rain and snow squalls.

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ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

By mornini^ the ice upon which they had taken refuge had so
wasted away that it became evident it would not outride the
oale, and they were compelled to take the desperate chance
of a stormy ocean, in a light boat, insecurely patched and
overloaded. The danjxer was o^reat, but the boat survived
the storm, its occupants being thoroughly drenched, without
any chance to dry themselves, having seen neither sun, moon,
nor stars for a week. They soon struck a sealing ground,
where they found more seals than they had ever seen before,
but for some time were unable to secure any. They were,
however, at last successful, and had seal food in abundance.
The ice soon became very thick around them. They again
started in the boat, but were soon compelled to land on d.e
ice again, where they repaired the boat, and dried their cloth-
ing to some extent. On the 28th of April the inevitable gale
commenced again, and all night they stood by the boat, launch-
ing her in the morning, but were compelled to haul her up on
the ice, where icebergs threatened her destruction, but which
they fortunately escaped by taking to a floe. The ice became
slacker, and during that afternoon they caught sight of a
steamer ahead of them and a little to the north. They hoisted
their colors, and endeavored to cut her off, but she disappeared
without seeing them. Wearied with, hardship and disap-
pointment they landed for the night on a small piece of ice.

For the first time in many nights they beheld the stars, and
the new moon also made her appearance. A fire was kept
up all night in the hope that they would be seen by the
steamer ; though in this they were disappointed. In the
morning they started early, and at daylight again sighted the
steamer about five miles off The boat was launched and for
an hour they gained on her, but in another hour they became
fastened in the ice, and could proceed no farther. Landing
on a piece of ice they hoisted their colors upon the most
elevated point they could find, and then fired three rounds
from their rifies and pistols, which were answered by three
shots from the steamer. She was again seen the same even-
ing, and while looking, for her another steamer hove in sUA\t
on the other side.

The morning of Wednesday, April 30th, was thick and
foggy, but when the fog broke a glorious sight met the eyes
of the drifting party. A steamer was seen close to them, and
as soon as they were discovered she bore down, and soon all

THE POLARIS EXPEDITION OF 1 87 1.

109

were on board the staunch little, cra^*- Tigress, ending their
perilous journey in latitude 52° 35' north. The Tigress was
in command of Captain Bartlett, and was owned in Newfound-
land. Some time after the party was landed in safety at St.

TYSON'S CREW SIGHTING THE SCOTCH WHALER, WHICH RESCUED

THEM OFF LABRADOR.

John's, Newfoundland, and a few days later the tidings of their
rescue reached the United States. A steamer was despatched
by the government from New York to bring the party to
Washington, where they arrived early in the month of June.

'■i

ARCTIC EXl'LORATIONS.

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Thus closes what is probably the most remarkable voyage
in the history of navigation. It is marvellous that nineteen
persons, two of whom were women, and five children, one of
them only two months old, should have drifted almost two
thousand miles, for one hundred and ninety-five days, through
an Arctic winter of extraordinary severity, alive, and in good
health. The harmony which existed among the party was
striking. No one had a word of blame for any of his fellows,
and the men, gathered as they were from nearly all nationali-
ties, always thought first of what could be done foi the Esqui-
maux women and children. In his testimony before the
commissioners, one of the men said: "Captain Tyson had
command on the ice ; but he never seemed to lake much of a
lead. Everything seemed to go on very well. There was
not a great deal of commanding; it was not wanted. When
we did not do as he directed, it turned out wrong."

Let us now return to that portion of the expedition re-
maining on the Polaris after the sudden separation on tlic
15th of October, 1872. For a long time she had been leak-
ing so badly that it was evident she could not float many
days, and it was resolved to abandon her. Everything which
could possibly be of use in a sojourn in that wilderness of ice
and snow was taken out. The hawsers which held the
steamer to the ice-floe parted, and she drifted away in a help-
less manner. The lives of those on board were in great
danger. It was clear she was in no condition to reach port,
so it was determined to keep her afloat and beach her at
some point where the stores could be saved. Her engines
were useless, having evidently frozen up. Fortunately the
ice cracked, and an opening was made, through which a
favorable wind blew her to the shore, distant about twelve
miles. The beaching was successfully accomplished, and the
work of providing shelter for the winter was immediately
commenced. The ship was stripped of all her material as
rapidly as possible, and soon became a mere hulk. The tim-
bers between deck were taken out, and all the planking and
boarding removed. From this material a hut was built and
roofed over with sails. A party of Esquimaux made their
appearance, and for some strips of iron helped to carry the
provisions, coal and stores from the dismantled Polaris to the
hut. Having been extremely successful in their hunting ex-
peditions they had a large surplus of skins which they dis-

THE POLARIS EXPEDITION OF 1 87 1.

Ill

oyage
leteen
3ne; of
St two
1 rough
d cTood
ty was
fellows,
tionali-
Esqiii-
)re the
on bad
ich of a
ere was
When

ition re-
t on the
en leak-
at many
nor which
ss of ice
leld the
n a help-
lin great
.ch port,
li her at
engines
ktely the
which a
It twelve
land the
mediately
Iterial as
irhe tim-
Ung and
)uilt and
Ide their
larry the
lis to the
king ex-
key dis-

posed of to the party, and from which was manufactured
warm clothing. During the long winter they suffered little.
The snow which fell banked up the hut and protected its in-
mates from the cold, while the Polaris formed a convenient
wood-pile, where they obtained all the fuel they needed.
Their provisions were ample for a time, but they knew they
would soon be exhausted, and became fearful of their fate.
They knew that for at least a year no news of the probable
loss of the Polaris would reach the United States. " How
should they escape ? " was the g-reat question propounded by
each. There is always a man for every emergency, and in
the present instance Chester, the mate, proved the hero.
Assisted by the carpenter, Coffin, he set about building some
boats, or scows, from the boards which had been usc;d as a
lining for the cabin. The work was patiently persevered in,
and as summer drew near, the boats were finished.

Scurvy, that dreaded disease of the Arctic regions, made
its appearance, but following the teachings of the dead Hall,
the men abandoned the use of salt food, lived on raw walrus
liver, and soon the malady was eradicated.

A fortunate thing for the party was the unusually early
appearance of good weather. By the middle of June the ice
commenced giving way, and at the earliest possible moment
thereafter they took to the boats, and commenced their voy-
age in search of transportation home, with the odds fearfully
aLTainst their success. While they were on their way the
Tigress and Juniata were being fitted out to go in search of
them.

The frailty of their boats compelled them to proceed slowly
and cautiously. During the day they rowed along, and each
night the boats were hauled up on the ice, where the only
warm meal for the day was enjoyed. Their stove was a
slight improvement on the Esquimau lamp, and their fuel
was oil, while their wicks were strips of rope, and the fire-
place a remnant of an iron kettle. A snow-storm delayed
them several days at Hakluyt Island, a breeding-place for the
auks, which were at that time hatchincr their von nor, and
which supplied them an abundance of food limited only by
their powers of consumption and the means of carrying it
away.

After leaving the island their progress through th'e slush
was very slow and laborious. They skirted the solid ice-

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112

ARCTIC KXPLORATIONS.

floes until July 20th, and just two clays before the Tig^ress left
New York in search of them, they sighted a vessel, which
soon discovered them, and took them on board. She prov id
to be a Scottish whaler, the Ravenscraig. Not haviiio
secured a full cargo, and wishing to do so before he returned
home, the captain of the Ravenscraig transferred the party to
another steam-whaler, the Arctic, homeward bound, and on
the afternoon of September 17th thoy landed at Dundee,
Scotland. Their arrival was at once telegraphed to London,
and the safety of the crew of the Polaris was announced the
following morning in the American papers.

Thus ended one of the most wonderhil voyages on record.
Out of the forty men, women and children comprising the
expedition, only one death, that of Captain Hall, occurred, a
most marvellous preservation of life amid the greatest danger
to wliich mariners were ever subjected. The unfortunate
decease of Hall in the infancy of the enterprise prevented
the accomplishment of such results as were desired and ex-
pected. With the commander died the hope and heart of
the expedition, and no further attempt at discovery or origi-
nal exploration was made. The loss of so brave anci skillful
a navigator may well be an occasion for the deepest sorrow
and regret amongst all who reverence and admire American
prowess and heroism.

("3)

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CHAPTER IX.

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THK GERMAN EXPEDITION UNDER KOI-DEWEY.

Departure from Bremerhaven — Separntion from the Hansa — Wreck of the Hansa — Adnft
on the Ice — Danger of Starvation — Return to Fredericksthal.

The first German Arctic expedition, commanded by Cap-
tain Koldevvey, and originated by the celebrated scientist,
Dr. Peterman, of Leipzij^, departed from Bremerhaven on the;
15th of June, 1869. The ship Germania was especiall)' built
for this expedition, and nothing was overldoked to make tiic*
outfit as complete as possible. The ship Hansa was to ac-
company the (iermania as a tender. The vessels sailed up
through the North Sea together, and did not separate until
J inuary. May en Land was passed, and the Arctic Ocean
actually entered. On the 15th of July the Germania entered
the ice-circle of Greenland. The two vessels became sepa-
rated, and met again on the i8th, but tliroiigh some misunder-
standing of signals they became once more separated, and
never met agfain.

Meeting with impassable ice to the west, the Hansa
steered to eastward out of the ice, and began afresh. Hav-
ing reached open water a second attempt was made at pene-
trating to the coast in the latitude corresponding with the
instructions. Until the loth of August the Hansa experi-
enced good weather, and with a favorable wind sailed along
the edge of the ice in a northerly direction, until, reaching the
desired latitude, it was once more thouglrt best to attempt
the desired coast. But disappointment again met the crew.
After sailing westward one night, they found themselves on
the morning of the 14th hemmed in again on ail sides; fresh
ice formed between the floes, besides filling up every passage,
so that the Hansa was fast again ; and from this time forward
until the complete blocking up of his vessel,^ the captain's log-
book unfolds a series of troubles, dangers, and reverses.

For a long time it was hoped that the floes would part and
allow the unfortunate craft to make toward the coast. Land

("4) ^

Hi K

KXPEUITION UNDER KOLDKWEY.

I'S

could be seen at a distance of not more than thirty-five miles,
and a boat journey over the ice, and throu^jh such channels
as occasionally presented themselves, seemed to confirm for
a time that slender expectation. In the meantime, measures
were taken to abandon the ship if it should become neces-
sary. The sailors' winter clothing- was distributed ; the boats
were made ready, and their respective crews told off; and the
plan of their winter house was discussed in view of the possi-
bility of being obliged to resort to one.

Their worst fears were soon realized. On the 19th of
October the pressure of the ice upc:. the Hansa began to be
tremendous. Huge ice-blocks forced themselves under her
bow, and though these were crushed by the iron sheeting,
they raised the forward part of the ship seventeen feet out of
water, or rather out of its former position in the ice. The
conviction soon seized the minds of the crew that the Hansa
must break up, and the clothing, nautical instruments, jour-
nals, and cards, were in all haste taken over the landing-
bridge.

The ship soon began to leak, and it was plain that it must
be abandoned. All the provisions that could be secured from
the wreck, together with fuel, medicine, and whatc:ver could
be easily moved in their present position, were dragged
over the ice to a safe distance from the sinking vessel. A
house had already been constructed from pieces of coal, and
to this, their only resort, they were obliged to repair.

In the meantime the floe on which their residence was
built was drifting steadily to the south. The routine in the
black house soon became established, and as it closely re-
sembled that on board ship, the lonely sailors readily adapted
themselves to it. Care was taken to make the little settle-
ment as conspicuous as possible in order that it might be
seen by any Esquimaux who should happen on the coast.
The food was lengthened out by the shooting of an occasional
walrus, and free use of this article of diet was effectual in
preventing scurvy, from which the party continued remarka-
bly exempt.

The first days of January were destined to bring sad
changes for the exiles on the ice. On the 1 1 th there were
heavy storms from the northeast, with driving snow. At six
in the morning Hildebrandt, who happened to have the
watch, burst in with the alarm, "All hands turn out!" An

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116

ARCriC KXPI.ORATIONS.

indescribable tumult was licard outside. With furs aiid
knapsacks all rushed out. But the outer entrance was
snowed up, so to !:;ain the outside quickly we broke throuirh
the snow-roof of the front hall. Tiie tumult of tlu: elenuiits
whi( h met us tliere was b(;yond anything we had already (-\.
peric;nced. Scarcely able to leave the s[H)t, we stood hud-
dled together for protection from the bad weather. vSiid-
denly we heard, "Water on the floe close by!" The lloi
surroundinij^ us split u\) ; a heavy st;a arose. Our field becrnn
a^ain to break up on all sides. On the spot between our
house and the; j)iled up store of wood, which was about
twenty-five paces distant, there suddenly opened a large oap.
Washed by the powerful waves, it seemed as if the piece iiist
brokt.'n off wa - about to fall upon us.

Tlu! iiouse was shattered in fragments, and a temporary
bivouac in the boats had to be experienced. A new house
had to be constructed for temporary vse ; the boats were
drawn nearer the middle of the floe, and all exigencies, so far
as possible, provided for. So for several months the drift to
the south continued ; the only hope of release being in the
boats, when the influence of the now rising sun and the
southern latitude should open a channel in the rugged pack.

The month of May at last arrived, but to the weary watdi-
ers on the ice release seemed as far off as ever. From the
spot where the Hansa had foundered, in 71° north ladtude,
they had moved to 61° — a distance of nearly 700 miles.
They were startled to find that only six weeks of provisions
remained, and that unless efforts were put forth to reach some
inhabited spot, they must expect one by one to drop away
from starvation.

A small island called lUuidlek lay about three miles away,
and to this it was determined to remove, unless there should
be some immediate and unlooked-for change in tho ice. To
this point, with much labor and many stoppages, they suc-
ceeded in dragging the boats and scanty stores. Here they
spent some days looking in vain for traces of life, and the
habitations of the Esquimaux whom the old voyager, Graah,
had found here. Existence could not be sustained here lor
any protracted period. Even the animals, both on land and
sea, seemed shy, and unwilling to minister to their necessi-
ties. Moreover, there was now open water sufificient to
warrant embarking in the boats, and at any rate death upon

llXI'liDITlON UNDKK KOLDEWKV.

»i7

the sea was no more terrible than slcnv starvation upon a
rocky, barren islet. Accordinnrly, on the Otli of June, tiie
hoats were launched, sails were exK^mporized, and the party
wiM'c once more in motion, ijlad in th(.' consciousness of at
least makin.i; an effort to save their lives.

Their aim was Frederichstahl, the nearest colony on the
southwest coast of Greenland, but they hoped soon to meet
one or the other of the I'^squimaux seal-boats srarchintj^ the
I'iord. No such fortune, however, j^waited them, tlunigii the
iiicreasinf warmth and si<^ns of vegetation along the coast as
they sailed by gave promise of comfort and plenty in the
near future.

Rounding Cape Farewell, they came in sight of the long-

MISSIONARIES IN GRKKNLAND.

vvished-for bay of Fn^derichstahl on the 13th of June;. The
little settlement situated on this bay was the seat of the most
southerly of the Moravian missions of Greenland. In this far-
away place, self-sacrificing men from the Fatherland had
setded for a life of isolation and toil among the ignorant and
almost savage natives of this frozen continent. How the
sight of their homely red houses cheered our band of weary
voyagers, and how sweet to them sounded their own mother-
tongue, spoken by warm-hearted countrymen !

From this point the troubles of our voyagers ceased. They
were soon able to procure passage in a Danish vessel to
Copenhagen. From this city they sped homeward by rail,
and once more trod German soil on the 2,<^ of September.

I !l

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rli

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AUfTIC KXPF.nRATFONS.

Let US now retrace our stei)s to tlie nortluvanl. wlicrc we
\v.(t the Germania stru<^^ling with the ice of" I'^asi dreenland,
and comoare her experience; with that of h(.*r unhappy con
sort.

'] o be separated lor a short time from the sister-ship undir
existin<j^ circumstaiu'rs. caused no uni'asiness; so that at noon
ol the day that the I lansa disappeared in th(.' Iol;, the ( i( r
mania set all sail, hut soon strikinj^ upon ice, was obljocd to
turn. The horizon was eagerly scanned for thi: Hansa, hut
witiiout success. A whaling vessel, however, was discovered,
and this last oi)portunity of sending letteis home was eagerly
e-mhraic-il. The ship was found to be the Hienenkorb ot
Hremerhaven.

" On her deck, cunlined in a large caf:,e, was a bear and her
two cubs ; fortunately for them, on board a whaler they were
not likely to want for food. One would think that a creature
so j)owerful and active could never be taken alive, but on its
hunting expeditions among the drift-ice, it frequently trusts
itself to the water, and here, in spite of its endurance, man is
more active and clever, and with a well-managed boat, a luckv
cast of the noose generally falls on the neck of the swimniinL^
bear, when, half-dragged and half-swimming, he is hoisted on
deck like any other animal, the noose round its neck being a
guarantee for its good behavior. On their return they are
generally sold to some menagerie or zoological garden, the
price of a full-grown bear being lOO thalers (75 American
dollars)."

When the Hansa disappeared in the fog, the Germania
set all sail, but soon struck ice and could not proceed any
farther. .Strori;; northwesterly winds prevailed, which delayed
the vessel's progress toward, the coast. The easterly winds',
on the oth(;r hand, drov(; the ice toward the shore, which tliiis
bee ame so packed that it was impossible to re^ch the main-
land. Several weeks were spent in meeting these obstacles,
but the efforts of the ship's company were at last rewarded,
and on the 5th of August they planted their flag on Green-
land soil.

The group of islands which they had now reached, kno\\n
as the Pendulum Islands, were first discovered by Claverirn.;,
in 1823. Far to the north was seen Shannon Island, the
largest of the coast islands of Greenland, while southward lay
Sabine Island, only a few miles from the mainland. Along

m'\,H

11.1 f

EXI'KDITION UNDKK Kol.DlvWKY.

119

these islands tint cxiu'dilioii lioprd to make its way north-
ward, after liaviniL;, accordinL; to tlu'ir instructions, soiijrht for
aiul marked tin; position of Sahinc's observatory.

The straits b(;twt;en Sabine Island and thi; inainhmd, and
also between the several islands, were coniplett.ly blocked with
u iiat appeared to be all land ice. V'arther on, between Shannon
Island and th<; mainland, as far as the eye could reach, the
land was firm, and the conclusion was soon reached tliat there

HUNTING THE WHALE.

would be no breaking up that year. Along the coast, then,
advance was impossible, and the only practicable way remain-
ing; was alon^- the eastern side of Shannon Island.

"The question," says Koldewey, "has been raised several
times, especially among inland people, as to why, being unable
to advance along the land-ice, I did not re-enter the pack and
work my way through it northward, and, in a higher latitude,
again try to reach the coast. This is opposed to all expe-

Ift/.'t'

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120

AKCIJC KXI'LOKATIUNS.

ricnce ; it has long been known that in a stream of heavy ice,
in fact, in the so-called pack, nev(M', nor at any pkice, with th(^
strongest and I)est steamer, has any considerable progress
been made witlioiit the s"pport of th(* coast, or the coast
islands. Had 1 wished to have reacheil tlu* coast at a nioif
north(=:rly point, 1 should hav(; had to penetrate the ice-barrier,
again to steer along the northern border, and force my way
into the pack once more in '/S°. Such a proceeding would
certainly never have been follow^ed by the desired result, and
it would have been unjustifiable to give up a basis reachrd
with so much trouble, to follow a phantom."

After some fruitless attempts to make their way along llie
coast in the Germania, the party returned and found winter-
quarters on Sabine Island, a few miles to the south and west
of Fendtdum Island, the land which they had at first reached.
It was now plannc^d to devote the winter to sledge-journeys.
The first of these was organized at once, and was ready to
start on th(.' 14th of September. As on the departure from
home the general expectation was that th.e greatest and most
substantial discoveries must be made with the ship, tlunr
instructions spoke only of probable glacier excursions to tlv-
interior of the country, and not of extensive sledge-journeys
along the coast and the banks of the Fiord, For the particular
necessities of these journeys, therefore, no provision was
made at the outfitting in Bremen, and the sledge apparatus
(tents, coverings, and so on) was not quite what was needed.

They had learned from experience during the summer that
the round tent with a pole in the centre, which they had
brought from Bremen, was not practically useful ; it was,
therefore, changed into a four-cornered one, and provided
with a roof. At each corner a i)ole was placed perpendicu-
larly, and fastened by ropes hefd and propped up with stones.
Their furdier apparatus consisted of necessary woollen cover-
ings (for they had not yet taken to furs), provisions for eight
days, of instruments, notably the theodolite, that essential in
all coast surveys, and the customary barometer and ther-
mometer.

The sledges, which carried about six hundred-weight, were
drawn by six men, the captain, First Lieutenant Payer, Trau-
witz, Krauschner, Kleutzner, nnd Ellinger, travelling with
comparative ease over the almost snowless ice.

Fligely Fiord was explored and surveyed up to where its

EXPEDITION UNDER KOLDEWEY.

121

if in
hcr-

rau-

Ivith

Its

inland boundary becomes a part of the ruggred Tiainland be-
yond. On Kuhn Island Li.eutenant Payer noticed a stone of
exceedingly light color, which on the south side of th(; island
formed solid overhanging crystals, to at least 2,000 feet high.
Leaving the sledge, to his great astonishment he stumbl(*(l
upon a layer of coal, its strata alternating with sandstone.
Inirdier investigations proved the existence of the carbon-
iferous deposit in large quantities — possibly a useful factor in
the future development or subjugation of East Greenland.
The party soon returned to the ship, having walked a distance
of 133 miles.

The months of September and October were spent in mak-
ing preparations for the coming winter. The Germania was
released from the icy bands which the early fall had cast
;ibout her, and was drawn closer to the body of Sabine Island,
where, moored in a convenient bay, she could fearlessly with-
stand the shocks common to vessels wintering within the
Arctic circle. On the nth of October the ship was sur-
rounded with a wall made of blocks of ice frozen together,
and a sort of breakwater or boundary to the little harbor was
constructed of the same material.

The winters spent by most American and British explorers
in Arctic regu.ns have been somewhat ameliorated by com-
panionship with natives. The consciousness that other human
beines can and do live in these desolated reoions is a ereat
source of comfort to sojourners m the north, especially when
this knowledge is gained by actual contact with the denizens
of the ice. Up to tnis point, however, our explorers had seen
no trace of nativts, nor indeed any signs of their having
formerly occupied this portion of Greenland. The conclusion,
therefore, was that the Es'quiinaux had either deserted their
former abodes, or had become extinct. Clavering, in 1823,
had found an Esquimaux settlement on the island bearing his
name, but both natives and their habitations had now disap-
peared. A few skeletons and rude implements alone re-
mained to tell the story of the decayed community.

Fall, winter, and spring found the voyagers usefully em-
ployed in exploring and surveying the fiords and gulfs of East
Greenland, in taking magnetic readings, and in compiling tab-
ulated statements of their scientific discoveries. The absence
of dogs and reindeer made their labors very severe. Sup-
plies, tents, instruments, all the paraphernalia of an Arctic

r < ■

I^^

,11

122

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

sledge-journey had to be dragged through the snow by the
men themselves, the officers participating in this labor with
appropriate enthusiasm. In this way several degrees of the
eastern wall of the continent of Greenland were accurately
explored and laid down.

It is probable that no expedition has had so varied and
thrilling an experience with the animal life of the north as the
party of our present narration. Almost no journey was
undertaken without more or less danger from the immense
bears which inhabit these regions, and sometimes the creatures
approached the vessel itself with great boldness. An inci-
dent occurred on the 6th of March, in which a valued mem-

ATTACKED BY BEARS.

•-S of

ber of the expedition nearly lost his life from the bold
one of these beast";.

"We were sitting," writes Lieutenant Payer, " fortunately
silent in the cabin, when Koldewey suddenly heard a faint
cry for help. V/e all hurriedly tumbled up the companion-
ladder to the deck, when an exclamation from Borgen, 'A
bear is carrying me off,' struck painfully on our ears.

" It was quite dark ; we could scarcely see anything, but
we made directly for the quarter whence the cry proceeded,
armed with poles, weapons, etc., over hummocks and drifts,
when an alarm shot which we fired into the air seemed to
make some impression, as the bear dropped his prey, and ran
forward a few paces. He turned again, however, dragging

KXI'KDTTION UNDER KOLDKWKV.

123

his victim over the broken siiore-ice, close to a field which
stretched in a southerly direction. All depended upon our
coming up with him before he should reach this field, as he
v/oiild carry his prey over the open plain with the speed of a
horse, and thus escape. We succeeded. The bear turned
upon us for a moment, and then, scared by our continuous
tire, let fall his prey.

"We lifted our poor comrade upon the ice to bear him to
his cabin, a task which was rendered difficult by the slippery
and uneven surface of the ice. But after we had.gone a little
way, Borgen implored us to make as much haste as possible.
On procuring a light, the coldest nature would have been
shocked by the spectacle which poor Borgen presented. The
bear had torn his scalp in several places, and he had received
several injuries in other parts of his body."

As spring advanced, the crew of the Germania made prep-
arations for their homeward journey. The vessel, so long a
prisoner in icy chains, became free about the first of July, and
the engine being repaired as well as circumstances would
permit, some cruising was done as a finishing touch to the
work of the season. After examining Shannon Island and
vicinity they departed for Germany, where they arrived on
the nth of September, after an uneventful voyage of three
weeks.

CHAPTER X.

THE AUSTRIAN KXl'KDITION.

:!.!',

I ! I

t I- *(:

iiiiiir.! ji

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Wcyprccht and Payer sci out in the Tc^jotthoir—tJrtat Discoveries — l-'all of a Slodj^c—
Franz joscpii's I,nn<l —March to the Sea— Kc! cued hy a Russian Whaler — The Rcsiilu
of the KxpeiUiions.

Thk failure of tlic German Expedition of Koklewey directed
the attention of after navigators away from the ice-pacUs of
Greenland to the more open seas of Nova Zembla. Althou<;h
for many reasons, among tht;m her comparatively inland
position and political relations, tlu: government of Austria
had been prevented from takin" any active part in the gnat
geographical problems of the times, an interest in polar re-
searches gradually developed into a determination to send
h("r Ikig upon the peaceful quest of new discoveres in the
frozen north. A large-hearted nobleman, Count Nilczek, con-
tributed 40,000 florins to such an enterprise, thus not only
conhrmino but endowing the resolution. In order, however,
not to waste a large amount of money and labor upon an im-
j)raciicable scheme, it was determincxl to send out a so-calKxl
pioneer expedition under the joint command of Lieutenants
Payer and VVeyprecht. The knowledge and experience thus
irained induced the government to send out another vessel
with a more extensive outfit to spend, as the need might be,
two or more winters in the Arctic seas.

Both of the officers in whose charge the enterprise was
given were men of sterling qualities and imdoubted ability.
Weyprecht had be(Mi given the command of one of the Ger-
man expeditions, but a fit of sickness had prevented his carry-
ing out the plan which made him the commander of the party.
Lieutenant Payer has already been mentioned as a participator
in the German expedition which returned in 1870. Havins,'
also been previously employed in the survev of the peaks and
glaciers of the Alps, he was the better {prepared to enter upon
a life of active service in the snows and hummocks of Nova
Zembla. He shines as the historian of the expedition, his

('24)

TIIK AIJSTUIAN KXI-KHTTFON.

125

descriptions of Arctic sch^ik^s and «'X[)cricnces bcin^r excelled
only by thosi: ol Kane in vivid and graphic character.

The pioneer expedition was to sail in June;, 1871, and
return in September of the same* year In order to reduce
cNpenscis, so far as possible, a light sailing vessel, the Isbjcirn,
w.is chartered and manned at a trifling cost. This vessel was
fitty-five feet long, seventeen feet broad, and had a draught of
six feet, with a capacity of fifty tons. .She was owned and
commanded by the skipper, Kjelsen, and had as a crew a
harpooner, Jour sailor.s, a carpenter and a cook — all of whom
were Norwegians.

The voyage of the Lsbjorn, though without thrilling incid(Mit,
or independent geographical results of importance, foniK^d
the foundation of several important inferences bearing upon
the pro|)riety of another and more pretentious voyage. The
following are the most important of die conclusions reached :

1. The Nova Zembla sea was not filled with impenetrable
ice, like that part of the ocean contiguous to Greenland ; on
the contrary, observation and report sliowed it to be open
every year, probably up to 78° north latitude, anvd connected
with the Sea of Kara, which was also thought to be unusually
free from ice.

2. The time most favorable for navigation in this sea falls
at the end of August, and lasts during the month of Septem-
b(T — this period being considered as embracing the minimum
of ice.

3. The Nova Zembla sea was found to be shallow —
geologically, a connection with, and a continuation of, the
great plains of Siberia. In its extreme north its depth was
only 100 fathoms.

4. The expeditions of the past and present centuries, whicli
attempted to penetrate by the northwest coast of Nova
Zembla, failed because they were upon tlie place of observa-
tion before the time, and also, because they lacked steam.

5. How far the Gulf Stream had any share or influence in
the favorable condition for the navigation of the Eastern Polar
Sea, could not yet be positively determined, but the state of
the ice, the observations upon its temperature and color, and
the character of the observed animal life, seemed to testify in
favor of the action of this current in those regions.

These conclusions seemed to justify the determination to
push the proposed project of a prolonged voyage of dis-

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126

ARCTIC EXPLORA'nONS.

covery, and it was thus that the Aiistro-Ihinji^arian expedition
originated.

It was the plan of those wlio had the expedition in hand to
penetrate east and north during the latter half of August,
when the north coast of the great island of Nova Zrmhla is

ON BOARD OF THE TEGETTHOFK.

free from ice. The places for wintering were left undeter-
mined ; they were to be chosen according to circumstances
of need or progress. In case of the loss of the ship the ex-
pedition was to endeavor to reach the coast of Siberia by

^<r^

THE AUSTRIAN EXPEDITION.

127

means of boats, and then to gain the interior by one of the
moantic water-courses of Northern Asia. No connection
with Europe was to be depended on. Payer well says: "The
motives of an undertaking so long and laborious cannot be
found in the mere love of distinction or adventure. The
object must not be the admiration of m'en, but the extension of
the domain of knowledge. The grandeur of one's purpose
alone can support him, for otherwise the dreary void of things
without can only be an image of the void within."

The ship chosen for th's principal voyage was the Tegett-
hoff — a steamship of 220 tons burden, carrying an engine of
100 horse-power. It was fitted with provisions and fuel for
two years and a half, but was overloaded by about thirty tons,
so that the available space was much taken up. On the 13th
of June, 1872, the expedition set out to cross the North Sea,
and reach the coast of Norway, where the last repairs were
to be made, and the last adieus exchanged with European
brethren. The crew numbered twenty-four, and embraced
Germans, Italians and Hungarians, though Italian was the
language in which the orders were given.

After a stop of some days on the Norway coast and the
Lofifoden Islands, the Tegetthoff was at last fairly on her way
to her long abode among the icebergs of Nova Zembla. The
vessel soon came upon scenes strange and unfamiliar to most
of the crew on board. As they came into the region of ice
the temperature rapidly lowered. Fogs arose in the distance
from the leads in the ice-field, and snowstorms alternated
with cloudless skies and genial sun. Far to the north was
observed the "ice-blink " — a shining band of light in the horizon
— always a faithful monitor of solid ice, of whose radiating
power it is a protrayal. There is said to be no more solemn
sound than that made by the action upon the ice of the
elements of thaw and frost, and no pictures more sad and
ghoslly than the procession of icebergs floating "like huge
white biers toward the south." Great falls of thaw-water
flowed down the sides of the icebergs, sometimes rending
them with a noise as of thunder by their constant wearing.

But when the sun came out the fogs disappeared toward
the horizon, and the whole scene was bathed in rosy and
golden splendor, the ice-crystals flashing like diamonds in the
flood of light. Occasionally a whale would rise out of the
water like a great black mountain, and then diving deep

128

ARCTIC l.XrLORATIONS.

i ! I

i f.'

l)en(iath the surface make the ocean tumultuous with his
awkward gambols. Tlie icebergs presented sonie curious
shapes. Some were chiseled as if by a trained sculptor into
fantastic forms of Gothic architecture, with quaint litde peaks
and towers, and grotesque gables. Others represented mam-
moth structures supported by regular columns, apparently of
solid glass. Rarely were the regular prisms, so common in
the North Atlantic, observed in these Arctic Seas. Such
were some of the sights which greeted our voyagers as they
entered the Polar Ocean.

They had sailed over one ice-hole, and now again a broad
and loity barrier loomed up before them. They succeeded in
forcing their way into it, but after using all steam of which
their vessel was capable, they found the Tegetthoff actually
beset, and the floes crowding together gave an unbroken field
for miles around. On August ist the vessel was still beset
by the ice, and there being a complete calm no efforts to re-
lease her were availing. They were now in latitude 74° 39',
longitude 53°. At length, on the 2d, they broke through the
ice which separated them from the open water around Nova
Zembla, and penetrated about twenty miles towards the coast
A belt of ice 105 miles broad lay behind them, while before
them rose the mountainous coast of Nova Zembla. Sailing
and steaming on along the coast of Nova Zembla toward the
north, they came on the 9th of August to another ice-barrier,
in latitude about 75° 30' north. In the neighborhood of the
Pankratjew Islands the crew of the Tegetthoff were surprised
to descry a ship on the horizon, which they soon recognized
as their old friend, the Isbjorn. It was a matter of the greater
astonishment that a sailing vessel should have followed a ship
which, onlv with the aid of steam, and even thus with oreat
difficulty, had been able to penetrate so far in the icy seas of
the frigid zone. The object of their friends of the Isbjorn
was to establish a depot of provisions at Cape Nassau, at
whatever risk to themselves. The two ships remained
together until the 20th of August, when they parted com-
pany, the Tegetthoff steaming away to the north, and the
Isbjorn soon disappearing in the mist that arose from the
more southern water.

On the evening of this day, the 20th, a barrier of ice
stopped all further progress. As usual, the ship was an-
chored to a floe, and awaited the parting of the ice. " Oinin-

WINTER SCE^

' m\

i .IF

il !

:: !

WINTER SCENE IN NORTH GREENLAND.— DEATH OF THE POLAR BEAR.

fill'

, ;'

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'I III', AUMl:lAN liXI'l.ni I IMN.

I 29

our;," f*ayfi Piycr, " wcrc! llic f'VfMil". of tliat day, for Iininfdi-
aldy all<'i* \V(" liad made the 'I'c-'/tiliod last to llial. (If)'', tlir;
i(('(l<)S''d ill upon ii'i Iroin ail !,i<l<s, and we IxMaiiv; pii'.oii'TJi
in its L;i'a;M'. ^<' vvalcr was lo lie '.i-cn around ns, and nrocr
(i>'iUH wcn'^Oi' di'sliiial lo srr. vnr I'csscI i,i nur/cr."

Scpl'inlxr came on with ils inc rca'.in;; coM ; ()i\n\\<-r
(ipcn«'d \\\\\\ il^; really wintry vvcallicr, and yt no si^Mis 01 rc-
Icis'". I Ik' shi|>, as lirnily Jastcncd ;is with iron bands, diiltfd
iiorlhward widi tin: Hoc wlii( I) lornicd ils |)rison.

riuis lar no harm h.id iinnicdialdy thrcilmcd tlu; 'IcjLM-tt-
Iiofl and ii'M* rrc;w, l)nt tlu* 13th of ()(lol)cr was dcslinrd to
hriii'4 iK'W and cxL-it'ni; cxix-ricnccs. In ihr: inornini,'^ of that
(lav, as the men sat at IjrcaUlaiit, the (lo( to which the V(;ss(rl
was attached burst asund(;r directly below them.

" kiishini,^ on (N-ek," says I'ayer, "we discovered that wo
were surronniled and scpiee/.ed by tluMce ; the alter part of
the ship was already nipj)ed and pressed, and the rudder,
wiiich was tlu^ fust to encounter its assault, sliool: and j^roanctd;
Init as ils i;reat wei_L;ht ilid not permit ol ils bein;^' ship|)ed, we
wvxv. content to lash it lirndy. Nois(! and (onhision r(Minied
suprcnne, and st(;p by step destruction drew nii^h in tlie cnish-
iiiL!' tosjether of tlu,' liekis of ice."

The loULjf niijlit and its fearful cold was bf^fore tluMii, and
they were driftin!^ they knew not whither. I )aily, for ouf;
luiinlred and thirty days,, they vv(;re destined to experience
those terribU; oncoininirs of the ic(.'. They kept ev(M-ythin(^^
in rcadin('ss for n;treat from the: shi|> in case the worst came
to the worst. Their sledi^es were loaded, their boats wen;
manned, antl their dothiuL;; and pnjvisions were distributed.
They sle[)t in their wet, fro/.en <^arments, expectini^^ to be
called up at any time and driven forth on the ice. J^ut
whither should they i^o ? 'I'Ik; sea about them was liftinn,^ and
qriiKliiii^ far beyond the; view, (jreat hummocks danced and
whirl(;d, overturnin<^" at times with tremendous force, while
diasins op(;ned on every hand, threateninir to swallow up any
slcdoe, or boat, or person, venturinL; on the uncertain surface.
It was fortunate that these first encounters with the ice oc-
curred while it was yet light. Had these assaults surprised
thcni amid the polar darkness, confusion and disorder would
have taken the place of the calm jireparations they were now
able to make.

The pressure meanwhile continuing, it was thought best to

iftfhi

I30

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

.f'i

make some kind of a liahltation upon a firmer floe, to which
thi;y mioht bctakr themselves in an emeri^cncy. Armed ami
provided with lanterns tiiey removed two l)()ats, ont' lunulred
and fifty 1ol;s of wood, fifty planks, and a supply of coal, to
the port side of the vessel, and there built their house ot
refuge. But even this hope might fail them. A storm might
carry away the planks which formed its roof, fire might con-
sume the combustible substance of its walls, and at any lime

TRANSPORTING WOOD ON SLEDGES.

a fissure might open from beneath and swallow up the whole
community.

The winter of 1872-73 slowly crept away, and the sun, by
its reappearance, gave promise of summer. Summer came,
but the months of May and June, in temperate climates the
glad harbingers of growth and life, brought no relief to the
waiting travellers. " Nichts als Eis " (nothing but ice) was
the oft-repeated answer of those who eagerly scanned the
horizon in every direction. The second summer of the voy'

THE AUSriHAN EXPEDITION.

131

ntje had come and nearly j^one. It had bejjjun vvidi promise
of libenition, but the time of j^reatest heat had gone by, and
no .si,iL,m of the predicted release had come. 'I'he idea of dis-
coveries had utterly passed out of the minds of the explorers,
and yet discoveries beyond their utmost expectations were
awaiting them.

August 30th brought them, in latitude nearly 80°, a joyful
siir[)rise. "At mid-day," says Payer, "as we were leaning on
the bulwarks of the ship, and scanning the gliding mists,
through which the rays of the sun broke ever and anon, a
wall of mist, lifting itself up suddenly, revealed to us afar off
in the northwest the oudines of bold rocks, which in a few
minutes seemed to grow into a radiant Alpine land. At first
we all stood transfixed, and hardly believed what we saw.
Then, carried away by the reality of our good fortune, we
burst forth into shouts of joy — 'Land, land, land at last ! ' . .
. . For thousands of yea- s this land had lain buried from the
knowledge of men, and now its discovery had iallen into the
lap of a small band, themselves almost lost to the world, who,
far from their home, remembered the hom.ige due to their
sovereign, and gave to the newly discovered territory the
name. Kaiser Franz-Joseph's land."

The fall and winter of the present year were occupied in
determining more fully the extent and configuration of the
island or Arctic continent just found. This work was conducted
chiefly by means of sledge journeys to and over the rough
surface of the country which they had dignified with the name
of their emperor. One experience in the fissures of what
was named Middendorf Glacier is especially worthy of note.

The party after a brief halt were just setting out again,
when tiie snow gave way beneath the sledge-runners, and
driver, dogs, and vehicle were precipitated into some unknown
depth below. Payer fi-st heard the confused shouting of the
man, mingled with the barking and howling of the dogs from
the bottom of the crevasse, many feet below. "All this,"
says he, " was the impression of a moment, while I felt my-
self dragged backward by the rope. Staggering back, and
seeing the dark abyss beneath me, I could not doubt that I
should be precipitated into it the next instant. A wonderful
providence arrested the fall of the sledge ; at a depth of about
thirty feet it stuck just between the sides of the crevasse,
just as I was being dragged to the abyss by its weight. The

ww w

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!l ii

Mir

I it:

132

ARCTIC EXFLOKATIONS.

sledge having jammed itself in, I lay on my stomach close to
the awful l)rink : tiie rope which attached me to the sledge
tightly strained, and cutting deeply into the snow."

By incretlible tact ami perseverance Payc;r at last freed
himself from the sledge, and set about recovering the store
of lost provisions, the manuscripts, which couUI nevt^r be re-
placetl, and above all, about the rescue of the fallen coniiaile
who '.as the "pride nnd gem of the party." Being th(; only
one of the party accustomed to glaciers, Payer was of neces-
sity c'.nost alone in his exertions. Rushing back to the tent
where most of the men had rejiiained, he hurriedly explained
what had happened, and all hastened to tlie spot of the dis-
aster, leaving the tent and stores un watched. They found
their poor comrade nearly dead from the cold, but sufficiently
conscious to be pulled to the top of the ice-cliff over u'lich he
had fallen. The dogs were found uninjured and quietly
sleeping near him.

Franz-Joseph's Land was found to be almost as large as
Spitzbergen, and to consist of two main masses — Wilczek
Land on the east, and Zichy Land on the west — between
which runs a b 'oad stretch of sea, of ice, called Austria
Sound. At the time of this exploration tlu; sound was cov-
ered with ice for the most part not more than a year in
growth, crossed in many places by fissures, and piled up with
huoe hummocks. The fact that here many icebergs were
seen, which had nc' been the case in the Nova Zembla seas,
warranted the supposition that they floated away fiom the ice-
packs in a northerly direction.

The experiences of two winters in the ice had forced the
party to the conclusion that the liberation of the Tegetthoff
was too remote for them to hope to save themselves by navi-
gating the path over which tiiey had come by its aid. Her
abandonment was therefore universally aijreed on, and the
20th of May, the very day on which, in 1854, Kane had left
the Advance on the coast of Greenland, was chosen for the
first steps of their present enterprise. Their stock of instru-
ments, which had done them such good service, together with
the little museum, which all had taken so much pride in en-
larging, had to be; abandoned, as the journey southward to
the open sea could only be made by relieving the men and
dogs of everything except absolute essentials.

Boats, sledges, everything that could be taken, were at last

C/3

'Si

ry)

I I

^^2;^

I (

134

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

removed, and the march begun. For die first few days the
burdens had to be dragged over hummocks and through fis-
sures, without even the variety of water upon which to launch
the boats, hi a short time, however, narrow leads appeared,
produced by the advancing summer and a fortunate combi-
nation of other circumstances, into which the boats were
placed, and a sort of doubtful navigation was begun. But
these leads were limited, and great masses of ice must be
continually thrust out of the way. Moreover, a south wind
arose which tended to destroy what progress they had been
able to make, so that after a lapse of nearly two months of
indescribable efforts the distance betzvcen them and the ship was
not more than nine English miles. It was a joyful day for our
explorers when at last, on the 15th of August, in latitude 77°
49', they bade farewell to the frozen ocean, and launched their
barks on the more genial waters of the Nova Zembla Sea.
There being no room for the dogs in the boats, nor other pos-
sible means of conveying them, it was thought humane to
kill them, which was done to the infinite sorrow of the entire
party.

The problem of their rescue was now simple compared
with the difficulties which they had just successfully combated.
It was not, however, until they had reached and passed the
Admiralty Peninsula, on the west coast of Nova Zembla, and
were nearing Gan.se Land toward its southern border, that
the welcome sight of a ship greeted their longing eyes. Here
they met on the 24th of August two Russian vessels crui.sing
for fish and reindeer on the shores of Nova Zembla. The
services of one of these vessels were readily engaged, and
the long-; suffering crew were soon on their way to Norway,
after a ninety-six days' experience in the open air. On the
3d of September they landed at Vardo, on the Norwegian
coast, and on the 5th embarked for hjamburg, where they ar-
rived amid the congratulations and applause of thousands of
friends and countrymen.

CHAPTER XI

EXPEDITION OF CAPTAIN GEORGE NAKES.

The ships Alert and Discovery — Death from Exposure — Mavkliam's SIc(l;;e Journey — He
reaches the Highest Point attained thus far — Lieutenant Schwatka's Expedition — In
King William's Land — Relics of Sir John Franklin Discovered — The Records of
McClintock Found — Safe Return.

Another Arctic expedition, consisting of the ships Alert
and Discovery, under Captain Sir George Nares, Commander
A. H. Markham and Captain H. F. Stephenson, was sent out
by the British Geographical Society in the year 1875. The
officers and men of both vessels numbered 120, many of
whom had seen Arctic service as whalers or tixplorers. The
Valorous accompanied them to Disco Island as store-ship, and
having there transferred her surplus stores to the other two,
she left for home July 1 6th, 1875.

On the voyage to Disco they had encountered much loose
ice off Cape Farewell, and many heavy gales, in which they
lost two of their whale-boats. Leavincr Disco on tlie 2 2d, the
Alert and Discovery steamed across Baffin Bay to the north-
west instead of hugginp- the Greenland shore through Mel-
ville Bay, and struck the great central ice-pack July 24th. In
thirty-four hours they succeeded in boring through the pack
into open water — a feat never before performed, and which
the Greenland masters declared " would ne'er be credited at
Peterhead." It helped to prove the superiority of steam-
power for Arctic navigation. Reaching the vicinity of Cape
York many icebergs were seen aground and closely crowded,
indicating that they would perhaps not have fared so well had
they taken the old route through Melville Bay, and around
that cape. Pushing north they soon arrived at Carey Islands,
where they landed and established a depot of supplies, depos-
iting the usual record under a cairn. Passing Littleton Island,
where they left a record, and Port Foulke, which Nares styles
"the Elysium of the Arctic regions," they made for Cape Sa-

(135)

i'f ''''ii

(:.:itifl

,'Viv^*ii

•i-Mi

"ad

136

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

binc, the easternmost promontory of the Ellesmere Land of
Inglc'fickl, in 78° 45'. Off tliat point, July 30tli, they saw the
ice in i;reat quantities, but in the middle of Smith's Sound it
consisted of detached floes, five or six feet thick, with occa-
sionally an old floe of twice that thickness, but much decayed,
and presenting no serious obstacle to their onward progress.
At lt:ngth, however, their way was blocked by impenetrable
ice, and they were detained three days in Payer Harbor,

i i"\'\

&i>

SIR GEORGE NAKES.

ill! ■ •

awaiting a practicable opening. Several fruitless attempts
were made to bore through, but at last success crowned their
efforts, and on the 4th of August they forced their way
through twenty miles of Hayes Sound. Soon, however, they
got entangled in the pack, making but little headway, and
finally were completely beset, barely escaping collision with a
huge iceberg, and finding it necessary to unship their rudders.
With great labor, and amid many dangers for three weeks

EXrKniTION OF CAPTAIN GEOROK NARKS.

137

longer in Kennedy Channel, tliey reached Cape Liebor,
Hayes' limit of i860, on the 24th of August, and entered
Lady Franklin Sound.

Here in the shelter of an island was found a good harbor,
perfectly suitable for winter-quarters; and to enhance their
aood fortune, they saw on the next morning a herd of nine
musk-oxen peacefully cropping the fresh and short-lived Arc-
tic vegetation, all of which were killed, forming a very season-
able addition to their stores, notwidistantiing the llavor "was
so very musk." Before thi; loth of October tlujy had shot
thirty-two of them, and had at one time over thre(.' thousand
pounds of their frozen (lesh hanging up. The Discovery was
left here, remaining frozen in for ten and a half months. Their
first care was to take ashore and deposit provisions for six
months to guard against the conting(-'ncy of disaster to the
ship by fire or otherwise during her detention. Snow-walls
were then constructed around her after the now well-known
type, but heavier than usual, being made fifteen to twenty feet
thick. These precautions, with the ordinary provisions for
heat, kept the temperature of the lower deck at 48° to 56°,
throughout the winter. The period of darkness, that is, ab-
sence of sunlight, set in on the loth of October and lasted
135 days.

Leaving Stephenson and his men busy with their prepara-
tions for winter, Nares pushed on in the Alert, and on the
31st of August reached latitude 82° 24', in Robeson Channel
— the highest point ever attained by ship, and only 21' short
of Parry's sledge limit, 82° 45' north of Spitzbergen. In this
channel the sea-ice approached the land-ice so close as to
leave but a narrow waterway, and off Cape Sheridan they
closed together, completely locking the northern entrance, or
exit, into the polar sea. Along the coast a jagged parapet of
ice frinired the shelving ledges, rising to an average height of
about twenty feet, interrupted at intervals by ravines. Hav-
ing rounded the northeast point of Grant Land, he found him-
self where Hayes had been so anxious to reach, but instead
of the Open Polar Sea of that navigator he found the ".Sea
of Ancient Ice," impenetrable and forbidding. The ice was
of unusual age and thickness ; for instead of the five or six
feet of the common floe, and the ten or twelve of the old
floes hitherto encountered, it presented a front of fifteen or
more feet above water, and a total of eighty to one hundred

I ^

1 I
I i

138

ARCTIC EXV\A )RATI()NS.

.iil

^?'J "

and twenty feet — resembling a connected chain of low ice-
bergs rather than the floes or packs of more southern lati-
tudes. In ihr. shelter of such ice, wlu^re the submerg(>(l por-
tion, extending to the land, left a sufficient waterway for tiu;
ship, Nares found safe though not inviting winter-cjuartcrs;
and here they were soon frozen in by the newly formed shore-
ice.

While most of the ship's company were briefly cngag(>d in
the usual labors for the safety of the ship and stores I.ieuteii-
ant P. Aldricii, accompanied by Adam Ayles, set out Septem-
ber 2 1 St, with two dog-sledges — dogs and sledges for the
expedition had been secured at Disco — under orders to pio-
neer a route round Cape Joseph Henry, on the north side of
Grant Land, for a larger party which was to follow. I'\)ur
days later, Commander Markham, with Lieutenants A. A. C
Parr and W. H. May, started with three sledges to establish
a depot of provisions as far to the northwestward as would
be found practicable. On the 27th Aldrich and Ayles, from a
mountain top two thousand feet high, in latitude 82° 48', de-
scried the wide-extending land to the northwestward as far as
83° 7', with lofty mountains to the south. They returned to
the Alert on the 5th of October, after an absence of fourteen
days. A week later they entered on the Arctic night, the sun
having disappeared below the horizon; and on the 14111
Markham returned after a trip of nineteen days, having es-
tablished the depot at 82° 44', and tracing the coast two miles
farther to what miirht be regarded as the exact latitude
reached by Parry, elsewhere", nearly a half a century before.
Mafkham's party comprised twenty-one men and three offi-
cers, of whom seven men and one officer returned badly
frost-bitten, three so severely as to require amputation, ilie
thermometer ranging through the trip from 15° to 22° below
zero. Meanwhile, from the 2d to the 12th, Lieutenant Raw-
son had made an unsuccessful attempt to open communication
with Captain Stephenson in Lady Franklin Sound. The ice
was found impassable within nine miles of the ship, being
rotten and unsafe in the channel, and piled up thirty feet hit^Ii
on the shore, while the deep snowdrifts in the ravines made
the overland route equally impracticable.

The usual efforts to amuse and instruct the ship's company
were inaugurated under the auspices of the commander, who
says that of fifty-five men who composed the crew of the

EXI'KDI'lloN OK CAP IAIN CKORGK NARKS.

139

Alert only two wore found who could not read. Besides the
school tor instriur.ion tliere were lectiin^s, readinj^s, concerts,
and theatrical representations, Thursday of eacli week being
devoted to these entertainuKMits. The hrst theatrical per-
formance was t;iven on the i8th of November, and was thus
formally announced: "The Royal Arctic Theatre will be
opened on Thursday next, the iSth inst,, by the powerful
Dramatic Company of the Hyperboreans, under the distin-
(Tiiished patronasj^(* of Captain Nar(;s, the members of the
Arctic I'LxplorinLi;- I'^xpedition, and all the nobility and orentry
of the neighborhood." On tin; 1 )iscovery similar entertain-
ments were given, its theatre being opened Decjnber ist,
and the plays being rendcired alternately by officers and nK.n.
Each vessel had a small printing press, which was used for
issuing programmes and bills of fare on occasions of gr( at
dinn(M-s. ()n the anniversary of the (iunpowder Plot, No-
vember 5th, they had a bonlirt; on tin; ice, \nd burnt Guy
Fawkes in the approved style. Christmas was dius observed:
"First of all, in tiie morning we have Christmas waits in the
usual mann(;r. A sergeant of marines, the chief boatswain's
mate, and three othc^rs, went around th(^ ship singing Christ-
mas carols suited to the occasion, and made a special stay
outside the captain's cabin. On tlu; lower deck in the- fore-
noon there were prayers, and after that captain and officers
visited the» mess in the lower deck, tasted the pudding, in-
spected the decorations which had been made, and so on.
Then the boxes of presents -by friends in FLngland were
brou<rht out, the name of him for whom it was intended hav-
ing been already fixed to each box, and the presents were
then distributed by the captain. Ringing cheers, which
sounded strange enough in that lone place, were given for
the donors, some of them very dear indeed to the men who
were so far away from their homes. Cheers were also given
for the captain, and for absent comrades on the Alert. A
choir was then formed, and ' The Roast Beef of Old England '
had its virtues praised again. The men had their dinner at
twelve o'clock, and the office'rs dined together at five."

"The sun reappeared on the last day of February. From
November till February, with the exception of the starlight
and occasional moonlight, we had been in darkness," says the
chaplain, "not by any means dense, but sufficiently murky to
excuse one for passing by a friend without knowing him "

it!l;

140

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

'•■■J^

:>U

1; r : .

And now the time for sledge-exploration was near at hand ;
and it became important to establish an imderstandinor be-
tween the two ships, so as to secure concert of action.
Accordingly, on the 12th of March, 1876, sub-Lieutenant
Egerton and Lieutenant Rawson, accompanied by Christian
Petersen, interpreter, were despatched to attempt once more
to open communication with Captain Stephenson. Four days
later they returned to the Alert, Petersen having completely
broken down. His hands were paralyzed, and his feet so
badly frozen as to require amputation, which, however, did
not save him, as he died some three months later. E^^ rton
and Rawson, accompanied by two seamen, resumed the
attempt, and were successful; and communication as well as
co-operation between the sledge-parties of both vessels was
established.

Lieutenant Beaumont of the Discovery, in command of
eight rnen, crossed Robeson Channel with great difficulty over
the broken and moving ice, and explored the Greenland coast
to latitude 82° 18'. Scurvy broke out among his men, and
two died before reaching Polaris Bay. Beaumont pushed on
to his limit, but four others succumbed soon after turning
their faces to the ships. The three that were not disabled
hauled the sick with the provisions on the single sledge,
always making the journey twice, and often thrice, over the
rough ice. " The gallant band," says Nares, " struggled man-
fully onward, thankful if they made one mile a day, but never
losing heart." While they were thus laboring on in the heart
of a frozen desert, a search party consisting of Lieutenant
Rawson, Dr. Coppinger and Hans, the Esquimau, was de-
spatched, and had the good fortune to fall in with them when
the remaining assistants of Beaumont were on the point of
also succumbin<>- to the disease. The three officers had now
for a time a monopoly of the hauling business, but no lives
were lost, and the party reached their depot of provisions
on Polaris Bay, where the well succeeded in shooting game,
and the invalids soon recruited. Including a lengthened stay
at that point, they were absent from the ship one hundred and
thirty-two days. Lieutenant Archer surveyed Lady Franklin
Sound, and found its head, sixty-five miles inland, surrounded
by lofty mountains and glacier-filled valleys. Lieutenant
Fulford and Dr. Coppinger explored Petermann Fiord or
Bay, which also was found to terminate in a steep glacier-

EXrKDIIION Ol- CAI'TAIN GEORGE NARES.

141

front. Some good coal was found on Discovery Bay. These
local trips and Beaumont's Greenland Division of Arctic ex-
ploration constituted the Discovery's quota ; the Alert's men
took charge of the Western and Northern Divisions. Lieu-
tenant Aldrich, with seven men, explored two hundred and
twenty miles to the west side of Grant Land, finding nothing
in sight beyond but the wide-expanded sea. On his return,
when met by a relief party under Lieutenant May, only one
of his men was in a condition to assist in hauling four dis-
abled comrades, while the other two feebly struggled along
by the side of the sledge.

It was noticeable that the officers in all these sledge-journeys
escaped the scurvy, while nearly all the men were attacked.
Captc-vin Nares was severely criticised, on the return of the
expedition, for alleged neglect of sanitary precautions, in fail-
ing to provide liberal supplies of anti-scorbutic remedies on
these trips ; but it was learned that the same difference in
health between officers and men was manifest on the ves-
sels. Men who had not been detailed for any of these expe-
ditions, but had all along been within reach of hygienic,
medical and anti-scorbutic treatment, were also attacked,
there being no less than thirty-six cases at one time on the
Alert. It was therefore probably due to the generally superior
physical condition and the greater self-helpfulness of the
officers that the disparity was due, and the same phenomenon
may be noticed in any epidemic. The better-kept men, intel-
lectLially, morally and physically, always show the smallest
percentage of deaths.

The great exploring feat of the expedition was performed
by Commander Markham's party. Accompanied by Lieu-
tenant Parr, Dr. Moss and Mr. White, one of the engineers,
and twenty-eight men, he set out for the north on the 3d of
April. The equipment consisted of four eight-men sledges
—so called because each was manned by seven men and an
officer; two boats for possible navigation in northern waters;
four tents, eleven feet long, and about seven feet wide ; and
between 1700 and 1800 pounds of provisions to each sledge.
The sledges were named Marco Polo, Victoria, Bulldog and
Alexandra. The costume of the men was composed of a
thick woollen, blanket-like material, under a suit of duck to
repel external moisture. On their feet, besides thick woollen
hose, were worn blanket-wrappers and moccasins ; and all

P-R

142

ARCTIC EXl'LOKATIONS.

:if

'Mi

wore spectacles as a protection ai^ainst snow-blindness. Each
slept in a separate ha'^ of the same heavy woollen material as
the day-clotliini^, and the eight, in the compass of tht; eleven
feet of t(Mit, which was of the same warm material. Breakfast

STARTING ON A SLEDGE JOURNEY.

was taken before quitting the bags, and consisted of a panni-
kin of cocoa, some pemmican and biscuit. After five hours'
travel a lunch of biscuit, with four ounces of bacon and a
pannikin of hot tea, was taken ; and at the close of the day's
journey, varying from ten to twelve hours, when the tents

EXrEDITION OF CAPTAIN (.EORGK NARES.

were pitched, and all, except the actinij cooks, snugly
ensconced in their bags, a supper of pemmican and tea was
served. With the pemmican was always mixed a certain
proportion of preserved potatoes.

For the first few days fair progress was made, though from
the outset the way was rough and difficult, and the tempera-
ture rather low for comfort — on the 6th it was 35° below zero.
On reaching the depot of provisions at Cape Joseph Henry,
established before the close of the previous season, the party
was rearranged. Fifteen men, with three sledges, and a total
weight in provisions and supplies ot 6,079 [pounds, accom-
panied Maikham and Parr over the high, rough hummocks
of the "Sea of Ancient Ice." On the loth, " Distance made
crood," says Markham, " one mile ; distance marched, seven."
"On the 12th it was i^ made good to nine travellfcl; the
17th, 1% to nine; and on the i8th, one to ten, and taking
ten hours to do it." " Course and distance made good, north,
•four miles; distance marched, thirteen miles," and similar
entries mark the most favorable proportions. But often only
a sinfrle sledge could be drac^ged over the hummocks at a
time with their combined force, thus requiring five successive
trips to cover the same piece of ground ; and this was some-
times varied by two additional trips to carry forward a few
disabled comrades. On the 19th it was deemed advisable to
lighten the burden by leaving one of the boats beiiind — it was
not likely they should need more than one for all the " Open
Polar Sea " they would fall in with. This weighed about 800
pounds, but two of the men were prostrated by the scurvy,
and had to take its place. " Before quitting the boat, an oar
was lashed to its mast, and the mast stepped, yard hoisted,
and decorated with some old clothes," to serve as a signal
whereby to reach it on their return.

With the hummocks recurring every hundred yards or so,
varying only in height, and the intermediate spaces covered
with drifted snow-ridges, and the temperature almost con-
stantly below zero, their progress was necessarily slow — very
slow, snail-like and tortuous. "The journey," says Nares,
"was consequently an incessant battle to overcome ever-
recurring obstacles, each hard-worn success stimulating them
for the next struggle. A passage-way had always to be cut
through the squeezed-'jp ice with pickaxes, an extra one being
carried for the purpose, and an incline picked out of the per-

iki

Hiil

I5j

144

ARCTIC KXri-ORATIONS.

pondinilar siilc* of tlu' liii^h floes, or roadway hiiilt up, Ixfore
tlu: sI(iIl,h"s — t^cncrally one at a tinu' — could be brouj^iu on.
Instead of advancing wilii a steady walk, the usual means of
proirrcssion, more than half of each day was expended by the
whole party facing;' the sledge and pulling;- it forward a few
feet at a time," On the last day of April they were: conijiellcd
to halt in the presence of a new (;nemy, the foo-, whicii endaii-
ij^ered their becoming- entangled in a labjrinth of hunimo( ks.
This weary work was continued dirouLjh the; hrst liiird of
May, with a constant increase in the nundoer of the sick, when
it was decided to leave them behind, while the stronoer ones
were to make a final push for the highest point attainabh". A
camp was established for the invalids, provisions and sup-
plies on the nth, and left in char^-e of the cooks. On the
mornintr of tlu^ 12th, Markham and Parr, with such of the
men as were still in a condition to venture forward, set out,
encumbered only with a few instruments and the national
colors. Markham thus relates the last advance: "We had •
some very severe walkintjr-, throujrh which the labor of drat^^-
ging a sledge would be interminable, and occasionally almost
disappearing through cracks and fissures, until twenty mimitcs
to noon, when a halt w^as called. The artificial horizon was
then set up, and the flags and banners displayed, these llutter-
ing out bravely before a southwest wind, which latter, however,
was decidedly cold iid unpleasant. At noon we obtain(;d a
good altitude, and proclaimed our latitude to be S^° 20' 26"
north, exactly three hundred and ninety-nine and one-half
miles from the North Pole. The leaders, Markham and Parr,
though they had reached the highest point ever attained,
were no more than half content at the meagre result of so
many hardships. But they were destined soon to find that
the decision to return was the salvation of the party, as
almost all the men were stricken down with scurvy before
reaching Depot Point, near Cape Joseph Henry, By forced
marches and indomitable energy they succeeded in getting
the men to camp on June 7th; and while Markham watched
and labored for their comfort, Parr set out for the Alert,
thirty miles aw^ay. Equipped with only a walking-stick and
a couple of light rations, he trudged off alone to hurry up a
relief party, stimulated by the consciousness that on his exer-
tions depended the life-chances of those he had left behind.
Fortunately he proved equal to the emergency, and in twenty-

h, .

m
m

(2'»S)

«l

146

AKCrriC KXPLORATIONS.

I I

W ■

If !( '

!rli!

ii'Si

four hours reached the ship. Before midnight of the 8th,
Captain Nares was on the way to Depot Point at the head
of a relieving party. Lieutenant May, Dr. Moss and a sea-
man, with a light dog-sledge, were sent forward as a lightly
equipped advance party, and reached the camp in fifty hour;
from Parr's departure. Short as had been the interval, one
of the sick, George Porter, had died, and was already buried
in the snow ; but no other life was lost. Of the fifteen men
who left Depot Point two months before with Markham and
Parr, only three were able to assist in dragging th(i sledges
back ; three others struggled along behind, often falling and
sometimes fainting; while nine had been utterly prostrated
and had to be crrried on the sledges in the tedious manner
already described. They had reached seventy miles north
of Grant Land over the Pal^eocrystic ice, as Nares called it.

Captain Nares concluded to return to England, where he
arrived on the 27th of October, 1876, after an absence of six-
teen months, with his ships uninjured and with only the loss
of life already mentioned.

Early in the summer of 1878 Lieutenant Schwatka, U. S. A.,
who had taken an active interest in the subject from boy-
hood, asked for leave of absence from his place of duty on
the plains, came to New York and asked permission to
organize a search party, for the purpose of discovering the
supposed records of Franklin's last voy.ige. After listening
to his proposition, Judge Daly, of the Geographical Society,
gave him all the information in his possession concerning the
probable whereabouts of the missing treasures; commending
him also to General Sherman, and indorsing his application
to be detailed to command the exploring party. The lieu-
tenant also conferred with Messrs. Morrison & Brown, of
New York, concerning the use of a whaling vessel for the
transportation of the party to the scene of their labors.
Their only available ship, the Eothen, was at sea, but upon
her arrival her owners offered her for the use of the expedi-
tion, and she was refitted in the best manner for the comfort
of the party.

Prior to his departure Lieutenant Schwatka received in-
structions for his procedure as follows, from Mr. Morrison:
"Upon your arrival at Repulse Bay you will prepare for
your inland journey by building your sledges and taking such
provisions as are necessary. As soon as sufficient snow is

KXPEDITION OK LIEUTENANT SCHWATKA.

the

tniling
cation
ieu-
n. ot
r iht
.\bors.
upon
Kpedi-
mfort

id in-

Irison :

re for

|v such

low is

on the ground you will start from King William's Land and
the Gulf of Boothia. Take daily obsf^rvations, and whenever
you discover any error in any of the charts you will correct
the same, marking thereon also any new discoveries you may
be fortunate enough to make." He was further admonished
to carefully preserve all records found, and keep them safely
in his own possession or to intrust them to his Esquimau
interpreter. Finally, he was advised, even though his ex-
pedition proved a failure in its particular end, to make it a
ideographical success, as his facilities for doing so would be
excellent.

The Eothen sailed from New York on the 19th of June,
1878, being accompanied down the bay by several tugs con-
taining the friends a. J relatives of the explorers. Her
officers and crew were as follows: Captain, Thomas F
Barry ; Jeremiah Bomepus, chief mate ; James Piepper, sec-
ond mate ; James Kearney, boatswain ; H. Omenheuser,
cooper ; Frederick Woern, blacksmith ; Charles Budley,
Cc'ipenter, and ten seamen. The exploring party was com-
posed of five persons: Lieutenant Frederick Schwatka, com-
mander; Colonel W. H. Gilder, a New York correspondent;
Joseph Ebierbing, Esquimau guide and interpreter; Henry
E. Klietchak. civil engineer, and Frank Mellers, assistant

enmneer.

After leaving the investigating party at the scene of their
adventures, the Eothen cruised about for whales a short time,
and finally returned to New London.

Schwatka and his comrades spent the winters of 1878-79
and 1879-80 in investigating King William's Land, the sup-
posed last resting-place of most of Franklin's men. In this
work they were greatly assisted by the activity, intelligence
and willingness, both of their native interpreter whom they
had brought, and also of the Esquimaux of the neighborhood
which they were examining. In the summer of 1880 many
interesting relics of Franklin and his party were discovered.
There were many pieces of wood, iron and other material,
which by names marked upon them, or by other signs, were
proved to have belonged to one of the two ships. Many
articles with private marks were discovered. The general
testimony borne by Rae in 1854 received ample confirmation,
and many additional proofs of the fate of Franklin and his
men were unearthed. Not only was the record of M'CIin-

148

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

tock's discovery in 1859 found where he had deposited it, but
the camp of Captain Crozier, which had been found and
occupied by his whole party, was discovered, with many relics
of interest. There were several cookinjr-stoves with ilu;ir
accompanying^ copper kettles, besides clothing, blankets, can-
vas, iron and brass instruments, and an open grave, where
was discovered a quantity of blue cloth, part of which was
wrapped aroun^l a body.

On his return late in the summer of 1880, Schwatka re-
ceived great homage from the American government for his
discoveries, and also from the English nation, for his delicate
and humane service to the remains of the lost English sub-
jects.

i 1^1

! i!.

' ■.Hi

:'!!

) i|

CHAPTER XII.

NORDENSKJOLD S POLAR VOYAGES.

NonlcnskjoUrs Numerous Polar Voyagt-s — The Vega — An Old 1 roblem Solved — ^Th«
N, itlierninost Point of Asia — A Winter in the Land of the Tchuktchi — A Trip around
ilic Wnrld — Magnificent Festivities ir Honor of Nordenskjcld and his parly.

Adol.f Eric Nordenskjold is a native of Helsingfort, the
capital of Russian Finland. In consequence of a toast given
by him at a supper party in 1855, he was deprived by the
Russian Governor-General of a small official position he held
in the museum of his native city, and consequently left the
country, and took service with Sweden, becoming State
mineralogist in 1858, and from 1859 ^^ 1878 took part in no
less than seven Arctic expeditions, mostly as their leader.
These expeditions were, to Spitzbergen in 1861 and 1864;
an attempt to reach the Pole, in 1868 ; to Greenland, in 1870;
to Spitzbergen again, in 1872-73; to the Yenisei River in
Siberia, in 1875, and again in 1876. Besides these there
were two Arctic voyages, in 1868 and 1871. By all these
voyages the information in relation to Spitzbergen and
Greenland and ibe adjoining seas was largely increased.

In the voyage of 1875 to the mouths of the Obi and Yeni-
sei, Nordenskjold landed on the 8th of August on the penin-
sula of Yalnial, that is, in Samoyed, Land's End, separated
from Beli Ostrov or White Island by Malygin Sound. It
had been reached in 1737 by Selifontov in a reindeer-sledge,
and was first mentioned in the narrative of Skuratov's jour-
ney of the same year. A more southerly portion of it was
traversed by Sujeff in his overland journey from Obdorsk to
the Kara Sea in 1771. In the second voyage of the younger
KruscMistern in the Kara Sea in 1862, when the Yermak was
abandoned on the coast of this Samoyed peninsula far to the
south, in latitude 69° 54', the commander and crew escaped
^ .' land, destitute of everything, but had the good fortune
to fall in with a Samoyed elder, the owner of 2,000 reindeer,
who took them to Obdorsk, about 600 miles distant by the

('49)

I : M'

ISO

ARCTIC EX I 'LO RATIONS.

route taken. "We saw no inhabitants," says Nordenskjcild,

" but everywhere along the beach numerous tracks of men

some of them barefoot — reindeer, dogs, and Samoyed sledjres
were visible. On the top of the strand-bank was found a
place of sacrifice, consisting of forty-five bears' skulls of vari-
ous ages placed in a heap, a large number of reindeer skulls,
the lower j'w of a walrus, etc. From most of the bears'
skulls the canine teeth were broken out, and the lower jaw

i ,;i

i :

'•I

SAMOYED ENCAMPMENT.

•was frequently entirely wanting. Some of the bones were
overgrown with moss, and lay sunk in the earth; others had,
as the adhering flesh showed, been placed there durini^ the
present year. In the middle of the heap of bones stood four
erect pieces of wood. Two consisted of sticks a metre (3,28
feet) in length, with notches cut in them, serving to bear up
the reindeer and bears' skulls, which were partly placed on
the points of the sticks, or hung up by means of the notdie^,

§1"' li'tf'

NORDENSKJOLD S POLAR VOYAC-ES.

iskjcild,
men —
sledges
buntl a
of vari-
r skulls,
t bears'
wer jaw

les were
Ihers had,
ng the

lood four

[ti-e (3-2^
bear up

llaced on
notches,

151

or spitted on the sticks by four-cornered holes cut in the
skulls. The two others, which clearly were the proper idols
of this place of sacrifice, consisted of driftwood roots, on
which some carvings had been made, to distinguish the
mouth, eyes, and nose. The parts of the pieces of wood
intended to represent the eyes and mouth had recently been
besmeared with blood, and there still lay at the heap of bones
the entrails of a newly killed reindeer. Close beside were
found the remains of a fire-place, and of a midden, consisting
of reindeer bones of various kinds, and the lower jaws of
bears. Sailing on at some distance from the coast, and at
one place passing between the shore and a long series of
blocks of ground-ice, which had stranded along the coast in a
depth of nine to sixteen metres (29^ to 52^/^ feet), during
the night we passed a place where five Samoyed tents were
pitched, in whose neighborhood a large number of reindeer
pastured."

The results of those several voyages are thus summed up
by Nordenskjold : "The exploring expeditions, which, during
the recent decades, have gone out from Sweden toward the
north, have long ago acquired a trul}- national importance,
through the lively interest that has been taken yi them
everywhere, beyond as well as within the fatherland ; through
the considerable sums of money that have been spent on
them by the state, and above all by private persons ; through
the practical school they have f ^""med for more than thirty
Swedish naturalists ; through important scientific and

geographical results t!: -y hav' -ielded ; and through the
material for scientific research, which by them has been col-
lected for the Swedish Royal Museum, and which has made
it, in respect of Arctic natural objects, the richest in the world.
To this should be added discoveries and investigations which
are, or promise in the future to become, of practical impor-
tance ; for example, the meteorological and hydrographical
work of the expeditions ; their comprehensive inquiries re-
garding the seal and whale fisheries in the Polar seas ; the
pointing out of the previously unsuspected richness in fish of
the coasts of Spitzbergen ; the discoveries on Bear Island and
Spitzbergen of considerable strata of coal and phosphatic
minerals, which are likely to be of great economic importance
to neighboring countries ; and, above all. the success of the
two last expeditions in reaching the fnouths of uie large

•:. f

1 ;

Ml!

i'' *i

ill

152

AKCriC EXPLOKA riONS.

Siberian rivers — tlic Obi and Yenisei — navigable to the con-
fines of Ciiina, whereby a problem in navigation, many cen-
turies old, has at last been solved."

On the 22d of June, 1878, the steamer Vega, purchased at
Bremerhaven, for the seventh and most celebrated Arctic
\ oyage of Professor Nordenskjold, left the harbor of Karls-
krona. Besides the Vega, with her company of thirty pcr-

CUTTING ICE-DOCKS.

sons, of whom only four were seamen, the others beinq^
officers, engineers, and scientists, three other vessels which
belonged to the merchant, Sibiriakoff, were at the disposal of
the commander of the expedition, consisting of quite a little
fleet, with the Vega as a sort of fiag-ship. They were the
steam-tender Lena, Christian Jonannesen, captain; the steamer
Fraser, Emil Nilsson, captain, and the sailing-vessel Express,
under Captain Gunderson, with their respecti\'e corps of petty

i!!':; II

NORDENSKJOLD S POLAR VOYAGKS.

153

: cop.-
j cen-
sed at
Arctic
Karls-
i per-

beinf^
vv'hicli

)sal of
little

tre the

teamer
{press,

If petty

officers and crews, and S. J. Seribrienkoff as supercargo, and
representative of the commercial interests of tiie owner. The
two merchantmen were to meet the Vega and her tender at
Chabarova on Yugor Schar or Vaigats Sound, lying between
the island of that name and the Russian mainland, which waL
also tlie appointed rendezvous of the Lena, should she get
separated from the Vega. The name Yugor is derived from
the old name of the adjoining portion of the continent, Jugaria,
or Yugaria, the supposed intermediate seat of the Hungarians,
between their departure from their original Tartar home in
Central Asia and their migration southward to their present
location, toward the close of the ninth century of our era.

On the 4th of July the Vega left Gothenburg, but encoun-
tering head-winds off the west coast of Norway her progress
was slow, and It was not until the 17th that she reached
Tromsoe, where she was to take aboard the commander, and
be joined by the Lena. Here they shipped three walrus-
luinters, and such special Arctic equipments as reindeer skins,
besides coal and water. On the 21st, about fifteen days later
than intended, they set out on the regular voyage, making for
Maossoe, a small island of the Northern Archipelago, where
they were to have their last mail facilities. Here they were
detained three days by adverse winds, instead of that many
hours, as anticipated.

Leaving Maossoe on the 25th, they steamed through Mar-
geroe Sound, between the island of that name, the northern
extremity of which is known as North Cape, and the main-
land of Norway. The Vega and Lena parted company the
first night in a fog, but each proceeded on its way to Chab-
arova. The Vega was steered due east to within a few miles
of the west coast of Nova Zembla, which they sighted on the
28th at 70° 33' by 51° 54' east, in about seventy-five hours
from Maossoe. This was about' midway between the Matot-
schin Schar, or Sound, and Yugor Schar. The Matotschin
Sound divides Nova Zembla into two large islands of unequal
size, the larger terminating at Barentz Land away to the
north, in latitude ']'j°, the chief interest in which is connected
with the fate of the early navigator, thus commemorated. An
account of his voyage has been given in its proper place ; but
a fresh interest has Been awakened by the recent discovery
of the winter-house erected by him and his companions at
Ice Haven, in Barentz Bay, on the east coast of Barentz

1 1i

154

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

':!. ■'>'-.

Land, a few minutes north of latitude 76°. On the 9th of
September, 1871, Captain Carlsen, a Norwegian, while cir-
cumnavigating Nova Zembla, discovered the house, with many
interesting relics, in a remarkable state of preservation, and
brought them home, whence they found their way, through
the zeal of Barentz's countrymen, to the Hague, where they
are carefully preserved. "No man," says Markham, "has
entered the lonely dwelling where the famous discoverer
sojourned during the long winter of 1596, for nearly three

BARENTZ' HOUSE.

centuries There stood the cooking-pans over the fireplace,
the old clock iagainst the wall, the arms, the tools, the drink-
ing-vessels, the instruments, and the books that beguiled the
weary hours of that long night 275 years before. Perhaps
the most touching relic is the pair of small shoes. There was
a little cabin-boy among the crew, who died, as Gerrit de
Vere tells us, during the winter. This Accounts for the shoes
having been left behind. There was a flute, too, once played
by that poor boy, which still gives out a few notes."

■1 ! !

NORDENSKJOLD S POLAR VOYAGES.

155

The more southern of the twin islands of Nova Zembla is
separated from Vaitjats Island to the south by the Kara Part,
or passage to the Kara Sea. The part of this island which
was now sighted by the Vega's company is known as Ganse-
land, because of the great numbers of geese and swans which
breed there. By the end of June, or early in July, the greater
part of Gooseland is free of snow, and soon the Arctic flora
discloses all its splendor for a few weeks. Giving themselves
plenty of sea-room, but in the main following the trend of the
land, they proceeded to the southeast, and farther on, east-
southeast, to Vaigats Island, of which they had an excellent
view, the air being exceptionally clear. From the Murman
Sea to the west it seemed a level, grassy'plain, but on ap-
proaching the sound, low ridges were seen on the east side,
which were regarded by Nordenskjold as the last spurs of the
great Ural range. They found the merchantmen awaiting
them when they arrived at Chabarova on the 30th, and the
Lena put in an appearance the next day. The Fraser and
Express had left Vardvje Island off the northeast coast of
Norway on the 13th, and had been in harbor since the 20th.

Nordenskjold's e> pedition quit their anchorage off Chaba-
rova on the I St of August, and steamed through the sound,
the Fraser towing the Express into the Kara Sea, which ex-
tends from Nova Zembla to Taimur Peninsula, receiving the
waters of the Kara. Obi, Taz, and Yenisei, through the gulfs
bearinsf the same names. It was found that " no notable
portion of the miiss of fresh water which these great rivers
pour into the Kara Sea flows through Vaigats Sound into the
Atlantic Ocean ; and tiiat, during autumn, this sea is quite
available for navigation." On the 2d they met no ice ; on
the 3d only ice that was very open and rotten, presenting no
obstacle, and in the evenina: arrived in siHit of the larcje
island of Beli Ostrov. The Lena had been despatched ahead
with three of the naturalists, under orders to pass through the
sound which separates it from the peninsula fof Yalmal. On
the 6th, passing Sibiriakoff Island in the mouth of the Yenisei,
they anchored in Port Dickson, on Dickson Island, where
they were rejoined by the Lena on the 7th.

They finally reached Taimur Sound, and on the 19th they
steamed by a large? high, unbroken field of ice, extending from
a small bay on the west side of the peninsula. A little farther
on, they had the good fortune to find, just west of the low-

's M

156

ARCTIC KXI'l/iKATIONS.

juttinir promontory — or ratluT iii tin: fork of it — an open bay
vvliich tlu'v named Kin<; OsL.ir, and in wliich hotli steamers
came safely to anchor in the eveninsj;^. Tliey iiad nouhen^
met sucii old drift-ice as is encountered north of Sj)it/l)erL;(n.
" We iiad now reached a j^oal," says Nordenskjold, " \vhi( h
for centuries iuid been the object of unsuccessful strunroles.
For th(? first time a vessel lay at anchor off the northernmost
cape of ihe Old World. No wonder, then, that the occurrence
was celebrated by a tlisphu' of llags, and the Hrin^- of salutes,
and when we returned from our excursion on land, by festivi-
ties on board, by wine and toasts. The north point of Asia
forms a low [)romontory, which a bay divides into two, the
eastern arm projecting;; a little farther to the north than the
western."

Both the cape and the immediate tonfjuc of land back of it
are now distinctively known as Cape Chelyuskin and Chely-
uskin Peninsula, both ' the honor of the Russian explorer
of that name. T'le ^rcat Taimur Peninsula, of which this
tongue and cape form the extrenK.' northern projection, is now
further divided geographically into a West ami Ivast Taimur
Peninsula by the Taimur Lake and ri\er; and it is to the
eastern half that Ch(;lyuskin Peninsula belongs.

On the night c)f the 28th of August the Vega and Lena
parted company in the open sea, in about longitude i 28° 30',
off Tumat Island. While they followed the coast they fouiul
open water, always at a safe distance from the land on the
one hand, and the ice-pack on the other. It was therefore
demonstrated that, at least in seasons as favorable as 1878,
the whole voyage may be made without mcf^ting any serious
obstruction from ice. The Lena reached Lakoutsk on the
2 1 St of September atnid great rejoicings, being the iirst ocean
steamer that had ever reached that far inland city, about 800
miles from the sea.

A^er parting with the Lena, as stated, the Vi\ga kept on to
the jast, reaching 132° at noon, and sighting Stolbovoi Island
in *,he r.fternoon. On the 1 st of September they were a*- i 50°,
aboi'.l one degree north of the mouth of the Indigirka, and on
the 2d the temperature fell to one degree below zero. On
the 3d snow began to fall, and when they arrived off Bear
Islands, north of the mouth of Kolyma, both vessel and land
were lightly covered with it. The channel west and south
of the islands, through which they passed, was almost free of

(»S7)

i! !r'

• V'

'»•

158

ARCTIC KXrLORATIONS.

iH, .

,.^i'l!

ice, but a little farther out ice was abundant, and on the 4th,
east of the islands, heavy masses were found to have drifted
south, compelling the Vv.ga. to bear down nearer the coast
toward the Greater Baranow Rock. Indeed, ever sine*-
doubling Sviatoi Noss, the ice seen was more like that to be
met off Spitsbergen, dian any they had hitherto encountered
on this vo) age ; but no icebergs or large glacier blocks had
been met or sighted. On the 5th they were off the mouth of
the Baranicha, so often mentioned in the account of Wran-
gell's sledge-journeys. Passing the entrance to Tchaun Bay
in the night, they reached Cape Schelagskoi at four o'clock
on the afternoon of the 6th.

On the 1 2th, beyond Cape North, the Vega at last found
her way blocked by the ice-pack, and turning back, found
temporary refuge near the cape, where they were detained
by the untowarcl condition of the ice until the 18th.

On the 29th, finding no lane, lead, or outlet through the
pack, the Vega was moored to a mass of ground-ice, 130 feet
long, 80 wide, and 20 high, which afforded a fair shelter, but
110 proper haven. This, however, proved to be the winter-
quarters, except that later on ship and shelter were pushed
by the outer ice to within seven-eighths of a mile of the coast.
Soon the ice-belt which had obstructed their advance grew
from six or seven to eighteen or twenty'miles wide, and there
was no longer any hope of getting away until the ensuing
summer. Their exact position was ascertained to be in lati-
tude 67° 4' 49" north, and longitude 173^ 23' 2" west — 180°
east, half the circumference from Greenwich, had been passed
at Cape North.

During the winter months many excursions to interesting
points w.ere made by members of the expedition, by which
valuable information was obtained about the country and its
inhabitants, the Tschuktchi.

At length the moment of release approached. The tem-
perature had remained below freezing point to the middle of
June. On the 14th, however, there was a sudden change to
milder weather. A heavy thaw set in, and the coast land was
so covered with mud and slush that all excursions had to be
discontinued. But the ice which bound the ship was still so
strong that the explorers did not expect to be able to leave
before August. Throughout their stay there had been open
water seaward, but usually at a great distance from the ship.

•!::■,,*

NORDKNSKJOIJ) S I'Ol.AU VOYACKS.

159

"On tlic 1 6th of July," says NordcnskjoUl, "a heavily hdm
double sledge could still be driven from the vt;ss(;l to the
shore;" and the next day the year's ice around them bei^an
to break up, but the <;round-ice was still undisturbed, and it
was judij^ed that several days would elapse bet'on; they could
(rot clear. So the commander determin<;d to take die steam-
launch to s(!a, and visit some whalers rttportcd by the natives
to be off Serdze Kamen. But by 1.30 on tiie iStli. when al-
most ready to set out, there was noticed a movement of the
ice which held the Vega. An hour later Palander, who was
prepared for every emergency, had steam up, and in another
hour the ship was free. At 3.30 she steamed away, first a
litde to the west to get clear of the floe, ^and then in the right
direction, eastward for Serdze Kamen and liehring Strait, en-
countering no further obstruction from the ice thenceforth to
the close of the voyage. The detention in winter-quarters
had lasted 293 days.

In tfMi hours they passed Serdze Kamen, and steering
thence southeast, they arrived off Cape East in Hehring Strait
on the morning of the 20th, and at (deven o'clock, being about
midway between the Arctic and Pacific Oceans, *' the Vega
t(reeted the Old and New Worlds by a display of flags, and
the firing of a Swedish salute." Thus finally was reached the
i^oal toward which so many nations had struggled, all along
from the time when Sir Hugh Willoughby, with the firing of
salutes from cannon, and with hurrahs from the festive-clad
seamen, in the presence of an innumerable crowd of jubilant
men, certain of success, ushered in the long series of north-
east voyages 326 years before.

The prevalence of fog rendered unadvisable a landing,
otherwise much desired, at Diomede Island, the famous
market-place of the polar tribes, situated in the narrowest
part of the straits, nearly half way between Asia and America,
and probably before the time of Columbus, a station for
traffic between the " Old and New Worlds." They first cast
anchor in St. Lawrence Bay, where various expeditions and
investigations among the tribes on the east coast of the
Fchuktchi Peninsula were zealously taken up, but only for a
single day, as the commander was anxious to reach a tele-
.,Taph station to communicate the safety of the expedition to
the king and people of Sweden, and the world at large.
Steaming across to the American side they anchored in Port

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ARCTIC I'-XP I, ORATIONS.

Clarence, where tliey were soon called upon by the Esqui-
maux for interchange of civilities, nifts, and barter. Here
they remained until the 26th, when the Ve^a recrossed to ih'>
Tchuktclii Peninsula, farther to the south than before, and ;ui
chored in Konvani Bav on the 28th. The mountains wen^
high and split up into pointed sutnmits with deep valleys still
partly filled with snow ; but no glaciers were seen. The inner
bav vvas still covered with an unbroken sheet of ice, which

ATTACKED BY I'OLAK liKAKS.

suddenly breaking- up on the 30th, they beat a rather precipi-
tate retreat, just in time to escape the last chance of condict
with the great enemy of Arctic expeditions.

Steaming away to St. Lawrence Island the Veea anchon'd
m an open bay on the northwest coast on the 31st, Notwith-
standing its very considerable size, eighty by thirty miles, the
island has no good harbor, and the Vega left her exposed
situation on th.e 2d of August. The next anchorage was
madf on the 14th in an almost equally exposed bay on the

NORDENSKJOI,!) S POLAR VOYAGES.

i6i

west of Bchring- Island. In the dreary, treeless land, where
RchriiiL;" and coniDanions met nothing; but desolation, sand-
hills, and ravenous foxes, Nordenskjold and party found a
thriviiiLj colony of American and Russian traders, with
chvcllinq;-houses, official buildings, storehouses, a school-house,
and church. Behrino^, Copper, and Toporkoff Islands, besides
several islets and rocks, constitute the group known as Com-
manelcr's Islands. "The part of Behrino- Island which we
saw," says Nordenskjold, "forms a high plain resting on vol-
canic rocks, which, hov/ever, is interrupted at many {)laces by
deep ke.tde valleys, the bottoms of which are generally occu-
pied by lakes, which communicate with the sea by large o*.
small rivers. The banks of the lakes and the slopes of tlie
hills are covered with a luxuriant vegetation, rich in ^ong
grass and beautiful flowers; and might without difficulty feed
large herds of cattle, perhaps as numerous as the herds of
sea-cows that formerly pastured on its shores."

Finding here a steamer of the Alaska Company bound for
Petropaulovsky, Nordenskjold was somewhat relieved of his
anxiety to reach a telegraph station, whence to despatch news
of the safety of the expedition. After a short but pleasant
sojourn at the civilized colony, they left their moorings on the
19th, and on the 25th struck the Gulf Stream of the Pacific.
On the 2d of September, at 9.30 in the evening, the Vega
anchored in the harbor of Yokohama, Japan ; and NordcMi-
skjold at length had access to a telegraph station, and also a
litde experience of official obstruction in getting his messages
off. Here he learned that a relief steamer, called by his
name, had been sent forward by his friend Sibiriakoff, and had
been stranded on the coast of Yesso, fortunately without loss
of life, and with a fair prospect of being got off safely.

From here the expedition returned to Sweden via Ceylon,
Point de Galle, Aden, the Suez Canal, Naples, Gibraltar,
Boulogne, Paris, and Copenhagen, where they were honored
by magnificent receptions and festivities.

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CHAPTER XIII.

THE UNFORTUNATE EXPEDITION OF THE JEANNETTE.

Lieutenant DeLong's Expedition sets out from San Francisco in the Jeannetle — He reaches
St. Lawrence Bay, East Siljeiia, where he learns 'hat the Vega liad gone South — Lieu-
tenant Danenliower in Danijer of losing the Sight of his left Eye — An Opi.ration Per
formed — Two Winters in tlic Pack — The Jeaiineite Crushed by the Ice — Relrcat South.
ward — Discovery of Henrietta and Bennett Island — Melville and his Party Saved—
DeLong and his Men die of Starvation, and Chipp's Boat Swamped by the Sea—
DeLong's Last Records — How Noros and Nindemann were Saved — Search for DeLong
and Chipps — Return of the Survivors.

The American Arctic Expedition, commanded by Lieuten-
ant Georg-e W. DeLong, of the United States Navy, whidi
left San Franci.sco July 8th, 1879, was projected by James
Gordon Bennett, proprietor of the New York Herald. After
the return of the last of the two successful expeditions whidi
he had sent to Africa under Henry M. Stanley, Mr. Bennett
decided to send out, at his own expense, an expedition to at-
tempt to reach the Nordi Pole by way of Behring- Straits,
Lieutenant DeLonor became '.nterested in the undertakino-,
and the Pandora, owned by Captain Allan Young, was se-
lected and bought as a suitable vessel to convey the ex-
plorers.

The Pandora was built in Ensfland in 1862. She was a
bark-rigged steam yacht of 420 tons burden, with an engine
of 200 horse-power, and a wide spread of canvas. She was
strongly constructed, and had seen considerable service in the
northern seas. In 1873 she conveyed her owner to die Arc-
tic regions for the purpose of searching for records of Sir
John Franklin's expedition; and in 1876 Captain Young
cru seel in her about the northern part of Baffin Bay — having
be.jn deputed by the English Admiralty to search for Captain
Nare's expedition.

By special act of Congress the vessel was allowed to sail
under American colors, to assume a new name — the Jeannette
— and to be navigated by officers of the United States Navy,
(162)

UNFORTUNATE EXPEDITION OF THE JEANNE1TF.

163

with all the rigius and privileg-es of a government vessel.
The Secretary of the Navy was authorized to accept and
take charge of the ship for the use of the proposed expedi-
tion, and to use any material
on hand in fitting her for the
vovage; but upon condition
that "the department should
not be subjected to any ex-
pense on account thereof.

The Jeannette was taken
from Havre, in France, through
the Straits of Magellan 'o
San Francisco, by Lieutenant
DeLong, with Lieutenant Dan-
enhower as navigating officer,
and there delivered to the na-
val authorities at Mare Island.
After a thorough examination
it was deemed advisable, on
account of the hazardous na-
ture of the contemplated voy-
age, that her capacity to resist
the pressure of the ice should
be increased.

The officers and crew of the
Jeannette were as follnw^s :

Lieutenant George W. DeLong, U. S. N., Commander.

Lieutenant Charles W. Chipp, U. S. N., Executive; officer.

Lieutenant John W. Danenhower, U. S. N., Navigator.

George W. Melville, Chief Engineer. J. M. Ambler,
Surgeon.

Jerome J. Collins, Meteorologist. Raymond L. Newcomb,
Naturalist.

William M. Dunbar, Ice Pilot. James H. Bardett, First-
dass Fireman. John Cole, Boatswain. Walter Lee, Ma-
diinist. Alfred Sweetman, Carpenter. George Lauderback,
Walter Sharvell, Firemen.

George W. Boyd, Ad'^lf Dressier, Hans H. Erickson, Carl
A.Gortz, Nelse Iverson, Peter E. Johnson, George H. Ku(;hne,
Henry H. Kaack, Herbert W. Leach, F'rank Mansen, Wm.
F. C. Nindemann, Louis J Noros, Edward Star, Henry D.
Warren, Henry Wilson, Seamen.

LIEUTENANT GEO. VV. DeLONG.

5't'M i

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i64

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

?!l

Ah Sam and Charles Tong Sing (Chinese), Cook and
Cabin Stewards.

Lieutenants DeLong and Chipp were officers of the United
States steamer Juniata on her northern cruise in search of
the crew of the lost Polaris. Mr. Melville was engineer of
the steamer Tigress when she went north on the same errand.
All of the crew were volunteers, selected with great care from
many applicants. Nindemann was a member of the Polaris
ice-drift party.

The Jeannette proceeded direct to Ounalaska, one of tlie
Aleutian Islands, and anchored in the harbor of Illiouliouk,
August 2d. Additional stores and supplies of coal and fur
from the storehouses of the company were taken on board.

On the 6th of August the Jeannette resumed her course,
and on the 12th of August anchored opposite the little set-
tlement and blockhouse known by Americans as St. Michael's,
Alaska, and by Russians as Michaelovski. A drove of about
forty trained dogs, three dog-sleds, and fur clothing were
taken on board ship, and two native Alaskans, named Ancciuin
and Alexei, were hired to accompany the expedition as doer
drivers and hunters. Alexei was a married man, and both
could speak a little English.

On the 1 8th of August the schooner Fanny A. Hyde, con-
veying coal and extra stores for the expedition, arrived from
San P>ancisco, and on the evening of the 21st both vessels
resumed the voyage northward.

On the 25th the Jeannette arrived at the St. Lawrence Bay,
East Siberia, some thirty miles south of East Cape, where
DeLong learned from the natives that a steamer, supposed to
be the Vega, had gone south.

After rounding East Cape, Lieutenant DeLong touched at
Cape Serdze, on the northeast coast of Siberia, and left his
last letter home. It was dated August 29th, and reacl/^d
Mrs. DeLong over a year afterward.

On the 29th DeLong attempted to land at the Cape, iat.
6']'^ 12' north, but found so much ice moving about as to make
this impossible. On the 30th Lieutenant Chipp, accompanied
by Dunbar, Collins and the native Alexei, landed and learned
through Alexei from an old squaw, tha* th--": steamer had win-
tered on the east of Koliutchin P.iy; and on ^.he 31st the
same party, together with Master Darn bower, at last made
sure by a landing on the ba\ that tlic */eg 1 hau certainly

UNFORTUNATE EXPEDITION OF THE JEANNETTE.

165

wintered there and gone soutn. Swedish, Danish and Rus-
sian buttons found in the hut on shore, and traded for by
Chipp foi' l^is vest buttons as cash, were proofs enough of the
Yea's visit, <is no other snip had been in that part of the
world with Swedish, Danish and Russian officers on board.
Papers were also found written in Swedish and having on
them the word Stockholm.

On the sixth following day the ship was beginning to be
closed off by the pack-ice ; her position was established by
observation to be lat. 71° 35' N. and long. 175° 5' 48" W.

S(!utember 13th, at 8 a. m.. Lieutenant Chipp and Engineer
Melville, Ice-pilot Dunbar and the native Alexei started out
on the floe with a sled and eight dogs, to attempt a landing
on Herald Island; but the party returned without having met
with any success ; no place could be seen offering any pro-
tection for a ship, nor any driftwood. Alexei shot a seal and
brought it back in the boat, and on the second day following
DeLong, with Melville, Chipp and Dunbar, shot two bears,
after their escape of some miles from the traps.

But at the close of the month the Jeannette's position was
far from being such, as she was still held between the floes
as in a vice and drifting with th(i pack.

Christmas day was the dreariest day ever experienced.
The crew came aft to wish the officers a merry day, and made
music for them in the deck-house. The ship's bells at mid-
night of the 31st called all hands together to give three
cheers on the quarter-deck for the new year, and for the
Jeannette.

Lieutenant Danenhower was now unfortunately placed on
the sick-list, being in danger of losing the sight of his left eye.
Surgeon Ambler found it necessary that he should remain in
total darkness in his room. DeLong was very much dis-
tressed at the news, as the Lieutenant's efforts had kept off
the moping for many an hour, and he feared the effect of such
confinement on the mind. The sick man did not improve
during the month of January.

On the 15th the floe was found to have cracked and opened
about twenty feet from the starboard side, the crack rounding
the bow and running in one direction in the prolongation of
the stem, and in another acres ; ihi' stern. On the 19th there
was a loud noise as of the cvb king of the ship's frame, and
at 7.45 A. M. the wind suddenly, shifted from north to north-

I V

1 66

ARCTIC EXPLOE '"IONS.

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l-(ii

west, the ice began to move, and the ship evidently received
tremendous pressure amid the groaning and grinding floes.
The ice moving to the eastward, piled up large masses of the
floe under the stem, breaking the fore-foot.

To add to the anxieties of the ship's company two streams
of water an inch in diameter then began to flow through the
filling which had been put in below the berth deck, and the
water soon stood eighteen inches deep in the fore-peak and
thirty-six inches in the fore-hold, while in the fire-room it was
over the floor-plates on the starboard side. The deck pumps
were at once rigged and manned. At last the le?>k was

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ALONE IN THE ICE.

diminished, although the steam-pump had to be continually
kept to work, pumping out 250 gallons an hour.

March ist Lieutenant Danenhower had the sixth operation
on his eye performed, with the surgeon's statement that others
would probably be necessary at short int :'rvalr, ; he still kept
his health and spirits. The ship had again drifted northwest,
her position being determined by Chipp on the 6th to be lat,
72° 12' N., long. 175° 30' W. ; by the I3tb the drift was again
thirty-diree miles north and 55° W., and by the 27th fourteen
miles farther to north and 63° W.

DeLong thought that he was extremely fortunate in lying

I'i,

UNFORTUNATE EXPEDITION OF THE JEANNETfE.

167

SO lonq^ without serious disturbance. The upper part of the
propeller frame had been uncovered by digging- away the ice
under the stern, and no sign of any damage was apparent
there. The ice also had been dug away under the bows to a
point on the stem where the draught would be six and one-
half feet, at which depth diligent search could detect no injury
to the bow, and DeLong came more than ever to the correct
opinion that the ship's fore-foot was the seat of the damage.
Unhappily at midnight, after the digging, the pressure of the
water underneath was too much for the thin layer of remain-
ino- ice, and holes were broken through sufficient to flood the
lar^e pit under the bow. At the same time great confused
masses were piled up thirty and forty feet in height, and
Sharvell, one of the crew, reported that he saw, about five
miles northwest of the ship, ice piled up as high as the mast-
head; he thought the destruction of the ship by its reaching
that mountain of ice, or by that mountain of ice reaching her,
merely a question of time. On the 24th and 25tli eight times
as much water as before had come into the fire-room ; no
greater amount seemed to come in forward, but it was neces-
sary to keep the steam-cutter's engine going nearly all the
time aft. It was impossible to discover what could have
gone under the ship to affect the leak in this way.

The hopes of release for the ship from her icy cradle seemed
well grounded by the thermometer reading ^,7°, with a fall of
rain on the first day of June. Fires were discontinued in the
cabin and berth-deck, and the record could be made that
there was a gradual resuming of ship-shape proportions to
be ready for a start northward and eastward, or northward
and westward, whichever the ice and winds would permit;
and DeLong had been again hoping strongly day after day
for some indication of a coming liberation. The decks were
rapidly clearing, and he thought he was surely approaching
the lime when nothing would remain but to hanqf the rudder
and make sail for some satisfactory result of the cruise. From
the first day of the month to the longest of the year, fogs,
snows and gales were almost the daily log entry. The drift,
:ontrary to all expectation, had been generally to the south-
east. For more than nine months the ship had been dri\'en
here and there at the will of the winds. On the 30th her
position was 72° 19' 41" N., 178° 27' 30" F., fifty miles south,
9° E. of her place on the first. She was heeling 4° to star-

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1 68

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

board (3° all winter), and her doubling' on that side was
about four inches above the water. From 'the crow's nest it
could be seen that she was in tlu; centre of an ict;-islancl. a laiu;
of water in some places a quarter of a mile wide surrouihlimr
her at the distance of about a mile. Much effort hail l)(:en
made to liberate the screw without success. The drift on
that day was only one mile.

The journal of July 8th makes special reference to the
thickness of the lloes around and underneath the Jeannctte.
It recites the facts, that "in September, 1879, after ramming

ARCTIC BIRDS-GULLS.

the ship through forty miles of leads, she was pushed into a
crevice between two heavy floes subsequently found to be
thirteen feet thick ; a depth caused by the overriding and
uniting of one floe with another by regelation under pressure.
When she was pushed out into open water November follow-
ing she was afloat, but the next day iced in." By January
17th, 1880, the ice had a thickness of four feet around the
vessel, later measurements being rendered impossible by the
confused massing which took place two days afterward. As
the leak had now almost subsided more firmly and correcdy,
DeLong believed that he was buoyed up by a floe extending

UNFOKIUNATK liXPEPmON OF THE JEANNKTTE.

169

(Jown and iiiulcr tlic keel. "Let us hope," he wrote, "that
oni; of these days tlie mass will break up and let us down to
our ix'arinirs." How sad these bearings were to prove ! The
forefoot was irretrievably wrenched. The ship must sink im-
mediately on the "breaking up."

During the remainder of the month of July and throughout
August the monotonous Record of the previous months of
routine duty on board ship, and of drift with no release from
the ice, remained with scarcely a variation from day to day.

September ist the ship at Uv.t was on an even keel, and
this had occurred very quietly and without shock ; one or two
large chunks of ice rose to the surface and then all was still.
The ship was yet immovable, her keel and forefoot being held
in the cradles. After sawing under the forefoot five or six
feet, in the hope of getting once more properly afloat, it was
found that more wa*;er came in, and the sawin; must be
arrested. Before the close of the month the idea of open
water was abandoned, and preparations made for a second
winter in the pack.

The first break of the monotony came in May, i(S8i. On
the 1 6th, Ice-Master Dunbar called Chipp to look at Land,
clearly enough an island, bearing, by DeLong's quickly made
observations, S. 78° 45' (magnetic), N. ^2^'' 15' W. true — the
first land to greet the e)e since March 24th, 1880, fourteen
months before. What it had to do in the economy of nature
standing desolate among the icy wastes was not the cpies-
tion ; it might be the spot to which the ducks and geese had
be'^n Hying, and if the ship could get some of them for a
change, what a treat! "Fourteen months without anything
to look at but ice and sky, and twenty months drifting in the
pack will make a little mass of volcanic rock like our island
as pleasing to the eye as an oasis in the desert." On the
following day observations placed the ship in lat. 76° 43' 38",
long. E. 161° 42' 30"; the rocky cliffs of the island appeared
with a snow-covered slope, the highest and farther corner
seeming to be a volcano top. The temperature noted was
maximum 11° 5', minimum 5° 5'. The Jeannette drifted past
on the north side ; the ice was so broken, and the pack run-
ning so rapidly that DeLong did not think it prudent to
make an attempt to land.

May 24th, the pleasing sight was renewed, more land was
ahead, and the ice very slack, with many large lanes of water

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170

ARCriC EXPLORATIONS.

varying in length from an eighth of a mile to throe miles, rind
in wicUh from twenty to one hundred feet. 'Hu; lanes were
very tantalizing ; they seemed to be within a radius of iWe
miles, but the islands were from thjrty to forty miles off, nnd
from that five miles radius to them, the ice was as close and
compact as ever. On the 31st, estimating the distance: to b;
but fifteen or twenty miles, I'Jigineer Melville, in coiiij)any
with Dunbar and Nindemann, and three other seamen, set
out from the ship with a fifteen-dog team to visit this second
island. They landed on it June 3d, and took possession for
th'} United States, naming it Henrietta — the name of a sister
of Mr, Bennett; a cairn was built and a record was placiid
within it, and a limited examination made of twelve hours.
It was found to be a desolate rock, surrounded by a snow
cap which feeds several glaciers on its east face. Within the
inaccessible cliffs, nesting clovekies were the only signs of
life. To reach the land, the party left their boat and sup-
plies, and carrying only one day's provisions and their instru-
ments went through the frightful ice mass at the risk of life,
draeoinir the doLis, which, throutrh fear, refused to follow their
human leaclers. Mr. Dunbar returned badly affected hy
snow-blindness; Chipp, Newcomb, Dunbar, and Alexei were
now on the sick-list, on which Surgeon Ambler had kept
DeLong also for several days, in consequence of a severe
wound in his head received incidentally from a fan of the
windmill. A ofeneral order was made out fj-ivin^- the names
and positions of the two islands, Jeannette Island, hit. 76°
47', long. E. 158° 56', approximate; Henrietta Island, lat.
77° 8', long. E. 157° 43'.

On the very day last named, the ice around the ship was
broken down in immense masses, the whole pack being
alive, and had the ship been within one of the fast-cJosiiii^
leads she would have been ground to powder. Embedded
in a small Island of ice, she was as yet protected from the
direct crushing on her sides, but felt a conUnual hammering
and thumping of the ice under her bottom.

On the 1 2th of June, at midnight, in a few moments' time,
she was set free by the split of the floe on a line with her
keel, and suddenly righting, started all hands from their beds
to the deck. By 9 a. m. the ice had commenced comini^ in
on her side ; a heavy floe was hauled ahead into a hole where
it was supposed the ice coming together would impinge on

UNFOKTUNATK KXPEDITION OF THK JP^ANNETFE.

171

itself instead of on the ship. The pressurr was very hoavy,
;iii(l <^d\'c forth a hissinir, criinchinj:^ soiurI, and at 3.40 r. m.
the ice was report(;d comini;- tlirous^^h the starboard coal
bunkers. At four o'clock she was lyintj perfectly (juiet, but
her bows were thrown up so hij^h in the air, that lookint]f
down through
the water the
injury to her
for(;foot made
January 19th,
iSSo, could be
seen. Melville
went on the
tloetotakcher
phot()_L;raph.
but on return-
\n<y to aic ship
heard the or-
der to prepare
to leave the
vessel bv c^et-
tini;- out the
chronometers,
rin(;s, ammuni-
tion, and other
articles to the
Hoe. Lieuten-
ant Chipp was
quite sick in
bed, but was
notified ; Cap-
tain DeLon<;-
" was every-
where, seeinir
that all things
went on

smoothly and quietly, without the least haste or consterna-
tion among the crew ; he came about the deck in the same
manner as thouofh we were in no danger whatever, and
tried to have the officers and men feel as collected as he
was." There was ample time for all persons to get out
their personal effects, but to get a barrel of lime-juice, so

AHANDONING THE JEANNETTl

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172

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

necessary to prevent scurvy on their march, Seaman Starr
waded into the forward store-room at the risk of his Hfe.

When the order was given for all hands to leave the ship
at about eleven at night, her water-ways had been broken in,
the iron-work around the smoke-pipe buckled up, the rivets
sheared off, and the smoke-stack left supported only by the
guys. Three boats were lowered, the first and the second
cutter, and the first whale-boat; and the ship's party of thirty-
three made their camp on the floe in six tents, but within an
hour were compelled to move still farther from its edge by
the breaking up of the floe in their camp.

At 4 A. M., June 13th, the cry of the watch was heard,
*' There she goes; hurry up and look, the last sight you will
have of the old Jeannette!" While the ice had held to-
gether, it had held her broken timbers. When it opened—
with her colors flying at the masthead — she sank in thirty-
eight fathoms of water, stripping her yards upwards as she
passed through the floe. At 3 a. m. her smoke-pipe top
was nearly awash ; the main topmast first fell by the board to
starboard, then the fore topmast, and last of all the mainmast.
The siiip before sinking had heeled to starboard about 30°,
and the entire starboard side of the spar deck was sub-
merged, the rail being under water, and the water-line
reached to the hatch-coamings before the ship had been
abandoned. The next morning, a visit to the place where
she was last seen showed nothing more than a signal chest
and a cabin-chair with some smaller articles afloat. This
happened in lat. yy" 14' 57" N. ; long. 154° 58' 45" E.

Daylight found the party encamped on the ice, about four
hundred yards from where the ship went down. The day
was spent in arranging the effects and in gaining rest, which
was very much needed. Many of the crew were incapaci-
tated for active work by reason of severe cramps, caused by
tin-poisoning from tomato cans. Among the sick were Lieu-
tenant Chipp, Kuehne, the Indian Alexei, Lauderback, and
the cabin steward.

The doctor recommended delay until the sick party should
have recovered ; but the time was not wasted, and the rest of
the crew began the work of dividing the clothing, and stow-
ing the sleds and boats. There were as provisions 3,500
pounds of pemmican in tinned canisters of 45 pounds
weight each; about 1,500 pounds of hard bread, and more

UNKOKTUNATK EXPEDITION OF THE JEANNEITE.

173

tea than was needed ; also some canned turkey and canned
chicken, but these were disposed of in the first camp. Be-
sides these there was a large quantity of Liebig's extract, a
most important element in the diet of the crew ; a large quan-
tity of alcohol, which was intended to serve as fuel for cook-
ing during the retreat ; plenty of ammunition, and a good
equipment of rifles. The provisions were stowed on five
sleds, each having a tier of alcohol in the middle, and on
either side a tier of pemmican canisters. Another sled was
loaded with bread and a limited quantity of sugar and coffee,

There were three boats mounted upon ship-made sleds,
each of which consisted of two oak runners, shod with whale-
bone. The grand total weight of boats, sleds, and provisions
was about 15,500 pounds. To draw these, the party had a
working force, when the retreat commenced, of tv ^nty-two
men ; and the dogs were employed, with two light sleds, to
drag a large amount of stores, that the party had in excess
to those permanently stowed upon the larger sleds. Each
man had a knapsack stowed away in the boats ; each knap-
sack contained one change of underclothing, one package of
matches, one plug of tobacco, one spare pair of snow-goggles,
ard one spare pair of moccasins.

On the 17th day of June, at 6 p. m., the order was given to
break camp. The order was obeyed with enthusiasm, and
the drag-rope of the first cutter was immediately manned.
At the end of the first week the captain found by observation
that the drift of the ice had more than neutralized the way
covered by his advance, and that in fact he had lost twenty-
seven miles by the drift to the northwest in excess to his
march to the south. The progress of the party toward the
land was very slow, but finally glaciers and water-courses
became visible. On the 24th of July the party reached a
point not more than two miles distant from the land, but the
men were so exhausted that they had to camp. Next morn-
ing it was found that they had drifted at least three miles to
the southward, and along the east side of the island. On the
27th day of July an island was reached composed of trap-
rock and a lava-like soil, and on the 28th a landing was made
on the new discovery. Captain DeLong mustered every-
body on the island, unfurled a silk flag, took possession of
the island in the name of the President of the United States,
and called it Bennett Island. The .south cape was named

>}il

I ! ;

''; if!'.

(174)

UNFORTUNATE EXPEDITION OF THE JEANNETTE.

175

Cape Emma, after the captain's wife, and was in lat. 70° 38'
north, long. 1 48° 20' east.

The ship's company now encamped for several days, need-
incr i-est and change of diet. Their first surfeit on the
numerous birds readily knocked down brought some sick-
nesir", compelling a return to pemmican. Du: bar and the
two Indians explored the east side of the island, finding there
several grassy valleys ; Lieutenant Chipp and Mr. Collins
explored the south and west sides ; a box of geological speci-
mens was obtained and brought home by Lieutenant Danen-
hovver. Dr. Ambler obtained amethysts, opals, and petrifac-
tions; tidal observations were made, the greatest rise and
fall noted being about three feet. The party left the island
August 6th, and made fair progress until the 20th, when,
after drifting along the north coast of Thadeoffsky Island,
they were imprisoned nearly ten days, after which they found
themselves in navigable water, and rounded the south point
of the island.

The three boats and their several occupants were, the first
cutter, holding Captain DeLong, Surgeon Ambler, Mr.
Collins, and eleven of the crew, including Ah Sam, the cook,
and the Indian, Alexei ; the second cutter, with Lieutenant
Chipp, Ice-Pilot Dunbar, and six of the crew ; and the whale-
boat. Engineer Melville commanding, Lieutenant Danen-
hower (invalid), and eight of the crew, including the Chinese
steward, and the Indian, Aneguin.

On the loth the land of the Asiatic coast was in sight,
estimated to be twenty miles westward ; and on the 11 th a
landing was made and parties sent out hunting. An old de-
serted hut was found, and human footprints made by a civil-
ized boot. L-ieutenant Chipp and some of his sailors visited
Melville's camp, and reported that they had had a very rough
experience.

September 12th, the three boats left Semenovski Island on
which the party had camped, at about 8 a. m., and remained
in company till noon. A gale was commencing from the
northeast, which by 7 p. m. forced all hands in the whale-boat
to be pumping or baling out water. The course was south-
southwest, true. Captain DeLong was about 500 yards dis-
tant from Melville, and Chipp 700 from DeLong. The gale
increasing, both of these last were lost sight of by the whale-
boat ; the first cutter destined to land her party and make

III

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':'H'

ft'l

176

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

the sad experience of their intense suffering to death by cold
and starvation ; the second cutter to leave no record, but the
blank to be filled by the reasonable supposition of her beiiiLj
swamped by the sea ; and the whale-boat to he saved only by

ANNEXATION OF BFNNfc/lT ISLAND.

the successful use of a drag or sea-anchor, and the incessant
baling by almost exhausted men.

The course of the party in this boat will be first traced.
.Engineer Melville was in command, but relied on the profes-
sional ability of Lieutenant Danenhower, still on the sick-list.

UNFORTUNATE EXPEDITION OF THE JEANNETTE.

I by cold
, but the
er beiivj;
I only by

I incessant

it traced,
je profes-
sick-iist.

The pocket prismatic compass, useful on shor(^ where it could
be levelled and the needle come to rest, was now unavailable.
Steering was by the sun or the moon. Lieutenant Danen-
hower carried the watch and chart, and could shape the course
of the boat by the bearings of die sun at this equinoctial
period, September 15th, one of the eastern mouths of the
Lena was entered, and, by the assistance of a Tungus pilot,
the party pushed up the river, and on the 26tli reached a
small village, in which lived a Siberian exile, Kopelloiif, who
proved very useful in opening the way to intercourse by
teaching the Lieutenant Russian phrases. They were de-
tained at this place waiting for the growth of the ice for sled-
ding, and while another Russian exile, Koosmah Gerrymahoff,
with the chief of the village, went forward to Bulun to inform
the Russian authorities of th^ir arrival.

On the 17th of October, Danenhowcr began his search with
a dog-team, to explore the coasts for the missing boats, but
was unable, from the condition of the ice, to proceed far in
any direction, and returned without results.

On the 29th the two messengers returned, bringing the
news that on their way back they had met natives with deer-
sleds, wiio had Nindemann and Noros, of DeLong's party,
conducting them to Bulun. Tie two seamen had written a
note, stating that the captain's party were starving, and
needed immediate assistance. Koosmah communicate 1 this
note to Engineer Melville, who immediately started with a
native and dog-team to find the men, learn the position of the
captain's party, and carry food to them. Danenhower was
ordered to take charge of the party, and get them as soon as
possible to Bulun. November ist, the Bulun commandant
brought to him a good supply of bread, deer-meat, and tea,
and a document addressed by Noros and Nindemann to the
American Minister at St. Petersburg; this the Lieutenant
forwarded by Seaman Bartlett to Melville, and as soon as
possible himself started forward, overtaking Melville at the
first deer station. He received from him orders to go for-
ward to Yakutsk, which he reached December 17th, 1881.

At Yakutsk Melville received the first despatch from the
Secretary of the Navy, ordering him to send the sick and
frozen to a milder cliniate ; Lieutenant Danenhower's party
went forward, therefore, to Irkoutsk. Here, being advised
by the Russian oculist that his right eye would be well in a

1 H'

I! i

!.«'

178

ARCTIC KXPr.ORATIONS.

few da)s, he telegraphed to the department, throu-Ii the
American Legation at St. Petersburg, asking permission to
iiire a steamer, and st-arcii for Lieutenant Ciiipp's party diir
ing the spring and summer; also for two line oflicers to
assist. He received a reply through the Legation that two
officers would be sent. The entire party of men of which he
had charge volunteered to remain for the search, six of them
being in excellent condition ; February 5th, however, hv. re-
ceived further orders from the Navy Department tiuii, ouiiiM
to his condition of health, the order to remain and search for
survivors of th'j Jeannette was revoked. The oculist allow-
ing him to start on the 13th of March, the lieutenant went

SCENE IN LAPLAND— TRAPPING GAME.

forward with his men, except Seaman Noros, whom he had
been ordered by a subsequent telegram to permit to accom-
pany Mr. J, P. Jackson, a special messenger sent out by Mr.
Bennett to renew search on the Lena delta.

Lieutenant Danenhower, Mr. Newcomb, Cole, and the
Chinese arrived in New York city on June ist. The rest of
the whale-boat crew, except the Indian. Aneguin, who died of
smallpox in Russia, and Nindemann and Noros, of DeLong's
party, arrived in the United States pn.vious to the 12th of
February, 1882. Cole was already mentally affected, and be-
came an inmate of the Government Asylum for the Insane at
Washington, D. C.

The following sad history is derived from the records of

UNFORTUNA'n<: F.XPEDITION OF THE JKANNEITE.

179

Commander DeLong, up to his last entries of October 30tli,
and from the reports of Engineer Melville and Lieutenant
IXinenhovver, their testimony before the Naval Court of In-
quiry, and that of the seamen, Nindemann, Noros, and Bart-
lett ; the first two dl' these three being the only ones saved
from this boat.

The captain's brief journals of September, 1881, record:
•'At 9 r. M. September 12th, lost sight of whale-boat ahead;
<it 10 P. M. lost sight of second cutter astern ; wind freshening
to a gale. Step of mast carried away; lowered sail .Jid rode
to sea-anchor ; very heavy sea, and hard squalls. Barometer
failing rapidly.

" 1 3th, very heavy northeast gale At 8 r. m. set

a jury-sail made of a sled-cover, and kept the boat away
to the westward before the sea; — i 7th, grounded at a few
hundred yards, landed at 8 p. m. ; dark and snow-storm, but
Collins had a good fire going; at 10.20 had landed every-
thing, except boat oars, mast, sled, and alcohol breakers ; —
1 8th, had fires going all the time to dry our clothes ; we must
look our situation in the face, and prepare to walk to a settle-
ment.

"September 19th, ordered preparations to be made for
leaving this place, and as a beginning, all sleeping-bags are
to be left behind. Left in instrument box a record, portions
of which read thus :

"Lena Delta, September 19th, 1881.

" Landed here on the evening of the 1 7th, and will proceed
this afternoon to try and reach, with God's help, a setdement,
the nearest of which I believe is ninety-five miles distant.
We are all well, have four days' provisions, arms and ammu-
nition, and are carrying with us only ship's books and papers,
with blankets, tents, and some medicines ; therefore, our

chances of getting through seem good At 2.45 went

ahead, and at 4.30 stopped and camped. Loads too heavy —
men used up — Lee groaning and complaining, Erickson, Boyd,
and Sam, hobbling. Three rests of fifteen minutes each of
no use. Roads bad. Breaking through thin crust ; occasion-
ally up to the knees. Sent Nindemann back with Alexei and

Dressier to deposit log-books Every one of us seems

to have lost all feeling in his toes, and some of us even half-
way up the feet. That terrible week in the boat has done us
great injury; opened our last can of pemmican, and so cut it

I *

iH ;.

iliii

t »

1 80

AKcnc i:xri.()UATi()Ns.

that it must siiffia! for four Jays' food, tlicn we are at the end
of" our provisions, and must cat the donr (the last of the forty)
unless Providence sends soniethini;;" in our way. When ihe

doL,'- is eaten ? I was much impressed, and d(;rive |L,M-(at

encouraiL^cinent from an accident of hist Si.nchiy. Our \V\h\t
got soaking wet. and I had to read the lipistie and Gospel
from my praycr-l)ook. Acconhng to my rough calculation it
must have been the fifteiMith Sunday after Trinity, and iIk-
ospel contained some promises which seemed peculiarly
adapted to our condition.

"SeptcMiiber 21st, at 3.30, came to a bend in the riv(T mak-
ing south, and to our surprise, two huts, one seemingly new.
At 9 r. M. a knock outside thi; hut was heard, and Alexei said:
•Captain, we have got two reindeer,' and in l.e came bearint^'
a hind-quarter of meat. September 24th, commenced prepa-
rations for departure from the hut at 7 o'clock Ai 10

p. M. made a rough bed of a few logs! wrapped our blanki ts
around us, and sought a sleep that did not come ; 27th, made
tea at daylight, and at 5.05 had our breakfast — four-fourteenths

of a pound of pemmican At 9.45 five men arrived in

camp, bringing a line buck. Saved again ! September 30th,
I loth day from leaving the ship, Erickson is ro better, and it
is a foregone conclusion that he must lose four of the toes of
his right foot, and one of his left. The doctor commenced
slicing away the flesh after breakfast, fortunately without pain
to the patient, for the forward part of the foot is dead ; but it
was a heart-rending sight to me, the cutting away of bones
and flesh of a man whom I hoped to return sound and whole
to his friends. October ist, the doctor resumed the cutting
of poor Erickson's toes this morning ; only one toe left now.
And where are we ? I think at the beofinning of the Lena
River at last. My chart is simply useless. Left a record in
the hut that we are proceeding to cross to the west side, to
reach some settlement on the Lena River, October 3d, noth-
ing remains but the dog, I therefore ordered him killed and
dressed by Iverson, and soon after a kind of stew made of
such parts as could not be carried, of which everybody, except
the doctor and myself, eagerly partook ; to us it was a nause-
ating mess Erickson soon became delirious, and his

talking was a horrible accompaniment to the wretchedness of
our surroundings. During the night got his gloves off; his
hands were frozen. At 8 a. m. got Erickson (quite uncon-

It
of

loU

ting

in
to
)th-
ind
of
^pt
ise-
Ihis
of
Ihis
)n-

DIVIDING THE DEER-SKIN SCRAPS.

';■' ■■

■|i

(iSi)

! |-

l82

ARCriC: KXl'LOUATIONS.

/ 1

scions), and lashed on the sled under the cover of a hut, mado

a fire and q^ot warm Half a pound of do<^ was fried

for each one, and a cup of tea cfiven. and that constituted (uir
day's food. At S.45 a. m., our messmate, Krickson, departed
this life. October 6th, as to burying him 1 cannot dii,r ^
prave, the ground is frozen, and I have nothing to dig with.
There is nothing to do but to bury him in the river. Sewed
him up in the flaps of the tent, and covered him with my flag.
Got tea ready, and with one-half ounce alcohol, we will try
to make out to bury him. But we are all so weak, that 1 do
not see how we are going to move.

"At 12.40 p. M. read the burial-service, and carried our de-
parted shipmate's body down to the river, where, a hole jiav-
ing been cut in the ice, he was buried ; three volleys from our
two Remingtons being fired over him as a funeral honor.

"Supper, 5 I'. M., half pound dog meat and tea. October 9th,
sent Nindemann and Noros ahead for relief; they carry their
blankets, one rifle, forty pounds ammunition, two ounces
alcohol. . . . Under way again at 10.30, had for dinner one
ounce of alcohol. Alexei shot three ptarmigan. Find canoe,
lay our heads on it and go to sleep.

•• loth, eat deer-skin scraps. . . . Ahead again till eleven.
At three halted, used up. Crawled into a hole on the bank.
Nothing for supper, except a spoonful of glycerine. 17th,
Alexei died, covered him with ensign, and laid him in a crib.
21st, one hundred and thirty-first day, Kaack was found dead
at midnight. Too weak to carry the bodies out on the ice; the
docto.', Collins and I carried them around the corner out of
sight. Then my eye closed up. Sunday, October 23d, one
hundred and thirty-third day — everybody pretty weak — slept
or rested all day, then managed to get enough wood in before
dark. Read part of divine service. Suffering in our feet.

" Monday, October 24th, one hundred and thirty-fourth day.
A hard night.

"Tuesday, October 25th, one hundred and thirty-fifth day.
No record.

" Wednesday, October 26th, one hundred and thirty-sixth
day. No record.

"Thursday, October 27th, one hundred and thirty-seventh
day. Iverson broke down.

" Friday, October 28th, one hundred and thirty-eighth day.
Iverson died during early morning.

UNFOKI-UNATK KXI'liniTION OF IIIK JKANNKTTE.

I S3

"Saturday, October 291I1, one luinclrcd ami thirty-ninth
(lav. Dressier tliecl iliiring the niji^ht.

"Sunday, October 30th, one iuindrc^d and fortieth day.
Boyd and Gortz died diirini,^ the ni^ht. Mr. Collins dyinj^."

'i'he precedinij brief e.xtracts from this saddest of all jour-
nals tell the story of the first cutter, ( xceptin*;- that of the two
saved, Nindemann and Noros. The captain, the surgeon,
and the last one of the crew must have perished almost im-
mediately after the last one of their comrades.

According to the testimony of Seaman ISiiidemann.DeLong,
on the 9th of October, had called him aside and said to him :
"I think you have to <jjo only about twelve miles to a settle-
ment called Ku-mark-surUa, and you and Noros can make it
in three days, or at the loni^est, lour. Do the best )ou can ;
if you find assistance come back as quick as possible; and if
you do not, you are as well off as we are."

The two men started off with three cheers from their com-
rades, and a copy of the captain's chart, by which he worked.
On their first day they kilh-d one ptarmigan ; on the second,
(■d\\'\n<r to secure a deer, they made a supper on a boot sole
soaked in water and burned to a crust, with some Arctic
willow tea; on the morning of the i ith they again started on
their way south, and at 12 m. stopped to make use of some
of the alcohol, but on finding that the bottle in their pocket
had been brok(;n, dined on another boot sole with Arctic
willow tea, and supped upon some deer bones that were
burned in a hut. On the I2ih they were somewhat more
fortunate, for on gathering some driftwood I'lros looking
into the hole beneath it drew out two fishes, and Nindemann
caught a lemmini;. The day following, having nothing to eat,
a piece of seal-skin pants was cut off, soaked in water and
burned to a crust, and on like food they subsisted until the
20th, when they found in a kayak near another hut fishes
enough to keep them alive for some days ; they were becom-
ing very weak by dysentery.

On the 22d, looking through the crack o( the hut in which
they were resting, they saw a native who, or. the evening of
the satne day, returned with others, and. putting the two men
on deer sleighs, drove with them until midnight to their tents,
into which they took the two seamen and fed them. The
natives, after securing a number of deer, carried the two
farther forward, and, after learning from them, by the assist-

1 I

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I.,

Inl^i

184

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

ance of a tall Russian, that they wished to be carried to
Biilun, the most northern Russian settlement in Siberia,
landed them at that place on the 29th. Here Noros wrote,
at Nindemann's dictation, a letter to the American minister
at St. Petersburg-, informing him of the condition of DeLonfr
and his party.

Engineer Melville without any delay started on the search
for Captain DeLong and his companions, but after great
suffering and exposure of three weeks' duration he was forced
to return, without having found the missing party. On March
23d, 1882, however, accomj)anied by Seaman Nindemann and

Bartlett, he found the restinty*
place of the twelve bodies of
DeLong and his companions.
Four poles lashed together
and projecting out two feet
from the snow-drift pointed to
their resting-place. The muz-
zle of a Remington rifle also
stood above the snow bank
eight inches, its strap hitched
over the poles. A few hun-
dred yards farther were the
three bodies of Captain De-
Long, Surgeon Ambler and Ah
Sam, the Chinese cook. Along-
side of DeLonof was his note-
book with the last feebly writ-
ten lines which have been cited;
under the poles were the books
and records with which the con-
scientious care of the commander had too heavily loaded him-
self and party. Alexei's body was searched for in vain; De-
Long's journal showed that lie died in the flat boat. It is
probable that the remains of the native were borne by the
flood into the Lena. Erickson, as has been stated, had been
buried by DeLong in the river. The captain's left arm was
sticking up out of the snow.

Nindemann, with Bartlett, under Melville's direction, took
everything from the bodies, tying up each parcel separately
in handkerchiefs found upon them. After much further dig-
ging in the snow, and finding a number of other small articles,

ENGINEER GEO. W. MELVILLE.

UNFORTUNATE EXPEDITION OF THE JEANNETTE.

185

Melville had all the bodies carried over the mountain to the
southward of Mat-Vai, where, on a high bluff, a tomb had
been prepared, and a box to hold the bodies. They were
arranged side by side, DeLong, Ambler, Collins, and the
others in regular rotation, as their names were cut on a
vertical portion of a cross placed over the tomb.

The tomb itself was covered with seven-inch plank its
vvhcle length, and the cross shored with diagonal braces to
the edge of the box, a regular pyramid being built over the
tomb, which was covered with
rough stones, from one hun-
dred and fifty to two hun-^red
pounds at the base, with small
pieces at the top and sides.
The cross arm was hoisted into
its place, and keyed by Ninde-
mann with a large wooden key
to keep it in place. The cross
was twenty-two feet high, the
arm twelve feet in length.

Arrangements were subse-
quently made at Yakutsk to
have the entire cairn covered
with a deep layer of earth, to
prevent the possibility of the
sun thawing the bodies therein.

During the first week of April
Engineer Melville's party, hav-
ing completed the burial of the
bodies, were put upon the search
for the second cutter, under the
command of Lieutenant Chipp.
Nindemann and Bartlett were
sent to Cape Barkin, from which point one of them examinee^
the sea-coast of the Delta southward as far as Jamavaeloch,
working also into the mouths of the rivers ; the other followed
the north coast of Siberia to the river Osoktok, along which
DeLong and his party came. Their orders were executed in
the most thorough manner, but no trace of the second cutter
was found. The first cutter was found where she had been
abandoned in the ice of the ocean, filled with water, frozen in
and badly stove.

IN MEMORY

OP 12 OP

THB

OPPICBRS AND

MEN

THE ARCTIC STBAMBR " JBANNBTTB,"

WHO niBD OP STAKVATK>N

IN THB LBNA DBLTA, OCTOBEK, 1881.

LIBOrnNANT

C. W. UULONG.

DR. J. M. AMDLER.

J. J. COLLINS.

W. LBB.

A. CORTZ.

A. DRESSLER.

H. II. BRICKSON.

G. W, COYD.

N. IVEKSON.

H. H. KAACK.

ALBXBI.

AH SAM.

iii

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1 86

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

Melville searched the coast line west to the deserted villacre
of Chancer, thence across the peninsula, down the river
Alanack to the ocean ; along the coast, in and out of all the
bays to the northwest point of the Delta, and thence along
the north coast; completing the coast-wise search for the
second cutter by a still further search to the river Jana.

The sledging season was now at an end. He was detained
on the mountains by the melting of the snows, but reached
Yakutsk June 8th. Hearing here that Lieutenant Harber
had found it impossible to charter at fair rates the expected
steamer for the Lena, and was making other preparations
for his summer search, but prevented from meeting him,
Melville sent Bartlett to report for duty under the lieutenant,
and sent with him a track chart of the search already made
on the Delta. From Irkutsk Melville began his home jour-
ney with Nindemann and Noros, arriving in New York Sep-
tember 13th, 1882.

The bodies of Captain DeLong and his unfortunate com-
panions were brought to the United States for permanent
burial by Lieutenant Harber and Master Schuetze of the
United States Navy.

CHAPTER XIV.

UNFORTUNATE EXPEDITION OF THE JEANNETTE.

Linate com-

rbe Events of the Jeannette Expedition Descril)ecl by Ciiief-Engineer Melville — A Drift
of Twenty-two Months in the Ice-Pack — The Melville Canp.i — Three New Islands dis-
covered — Henrietta Island — The Destruction of the Jeannette — The Dogs Abandoned
—The Retreat — Drifted to the Northwest— Bennett Island — The Lena River Readied—
Ncaring the Siberian Coast — Without Drinking- Water for Five Days — At the Delta of
the Lena — Mountains in Sight — Mr. Melville Effects a Landing — Frozen Legs and Feet
—On Half-Rations — The First Yakut Seen — Speaking by Signs — Bulunga! Bulunga!—
Jamavialock — Putrid Goose as a Delicacy — The Hut of the Starosta at Jamavialock —
Kusina — First News of DeLong and His Party — Melville in Search of DeLoiig — Noros
and Nindemann Found — Their Story— Melville starts from Burulak — On the Trail of
the Seamen — On the West Bank of the Lena.

Mr. Melville, in conversation with the writer, gave a most
^rapiiic account of many of the events in the history of the
disastrous Jeannette expedition. Mr. Melville's narrative is
so full of important detail, and contains so much that is new
to even the readers of Arctic travel and adventure, that it
cannot fail to be of the greatest interest. A few points only,
however, can be touched upon. The great Arctic explorer,
during an interview, spoke especially of the subject of ice
navigation and of the long drift o/ the Jeannette of twenty-two
months in the ice-pack.

"By our constant soundings and experiments in the ice,"
said Mr. Melville, "we had made a perfect survey of the bot-
tom of the Arctic Ocean for a distance of 1,300 miles. This
peculiarity of the drift was demonstrated — tli it the ice to the
northwest of us was always fast, and whiK"; we drifted along
from the southeast in a northwesterly direction, the ice to the
south apparently being in motion all the time, the track chart
of the crew showing a canal of water in which the ship ap-
peared to drift back and forth. This was called the Melville
Canal. This drift demonstrated that whenever we drove to
tlie south of the usual line the water shoaled to from twenty
to thirty-two fathoms, while at one time when the drift took
the ship in a northerly cant the lead line dropped into a

(187)

tSS

AUCTK" KXri.OUATIONS.

sounding of eighty-two fathoms. The drcdgings showed spcci-
mens of extinct bivalves, besides star fisli and other incrustacc a\
Another peculiarity shown was that winter or summer the ice
of the- Arctic Ocean is never at rest, always in motion — crowd-
ing, grinding, jamming, telescoping, rafting together, and for
this reason it is necessary in making attempts to /each tin-
North Pole to have the land to hold on to. Wh(*rever cnik'-
ditions have gone islands have always been found to ilu;
northward. 'Fhc Jeannette discoven^d three new islands, and
during the drift in the darkness of the winter night and the
dense fogs of t\vi summer, when often wc could not see a
mile from the ship, in those 1,300 miles to the northwest we
may have passed numerous unseen islands. It is therefore
necessary in approaching the Pole to make depots of sup-
plies eitluM- on die maiii land or on outlying islands wlierc
they may be found again. l*"or instance, one little item of our
experience in the drift will show the importance of this.
After we were frozen in in September we remained in tlic
pack until the latter part of October, and we had constructed
a canvas house on the ice, by the ship's side, for the men to
work in. We broke out in a hurry, and barely had time to
gather our instruments, boats, sleds and dogs into the ship,
when we drifted off about two miles down a narrow lane of
water. About the same time Alexei had had a shot at a hear,
and was obliged to leave it on the ice. After we had drifted
about two miles, as I have stated, a party was sent back to
find the animal. Owmg to the crowding and jamming of the
ice, the bear or canvas house could not be found until about
a year or a year and a half afterwards, when Iniquin, the In-
dian hunter, was out one day and ran across what he termed
a * two-man house.' He was very much alarmed and lied
back to the ship, first marking the spot by setting his spear
in the ice and tying his hunting-jacket and cap to the top of
it. The next day Lieutenant Chip was sent out with a sled
and he found it to be the old structure. We had been all
over the drift every day, but had not come across it until then,
which shows how difficult it is to make a cache in the ice and
ever fine it again. For this reason a system of colonies and
depots of supplies can only apply where there is land to hold
on by.

" While drifting by Jeannette Island and coming close to
Henrietta Island, I was sent with one of the other officers of

UNKORIUNATK KXPEDmoN OK 1111': JKANNK'm*:.

I«9

the ship, lour men, sixteen do^s and t<^n days' provisions, to
make a landing on tlie latter island. W(; w<;re driftini^ rai)idly
by, the estimated distance beintr from sixteen to twenty-f'ivc
miles. We had supplies for ten days, but we accomplish(rd
the march to and from in less than six days, and during the
whole of this trip the ice was so much in motion thai at times
the dog trains would be on one side of the moving ice-pack
and the mv.n on the other. We continued in this way until
within three or four miles of the island, when we found it
would he impossible to effect a landing and carry the whole
of the camp ecjuipment, which was then hauled on to a floe
berg, where we erected an oar and lashed a jacket and hat to
it to mark the place. Then with the dogs, navigating instru-
ments, guns and one day's provisions we made a dash for the
island. The dogs refused to follow, and I had to seize the
leader by the neck and drag the team through the moving
ice-pack, thus succeeding in effecting a landing, the boat drift-
ing off in a northwesterly direction. I made a rapid running
survey of the northeastern end of the island, remaining there
twelve or sixteen hours. From the high lands of Henrietta
Island the ship could be seen moving off in the distance. I
secured compass bearings of her and pushed off in that di-
rection, picking up the boat and equipment on our return,
and from the time we left until we got back to the ship, as
before stated, estimated at from sixteen to twenty-five miles
from the island, we never found one of the sled tracks to form
our retreat upon.

"It was shortly after drifting by this island," continued Mr.
Melville, " that the floe became so broken as to cause ihe de-
struction of the ship. On the night of the i ith-i 2th of June,
at midnight, it was my turn of duty to take the meteorological
observation at the observatory, which had been erected on
the ice about 300 yards from the port side of the ship. The
ice had been crowding and jamming, caused by the floe in-
fringing on the island, and we all felt that it was probable that
the floe piece in which the ship had been embedded for months
was going to pieces, knowing that when that did happen, from
the thickness of the ice and its movement, the destruction of
the Jeannette was inevitable. As I was passing over the
gang plank a shock caused me to pause, and as I stood look-
ing down over the side of the ship, I saw a lane of water
opening and the ship began to oscillate from port to star-

I';

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190

ARCTIC EXPLORA'nONS.

board, and finally floated upright. The floe on the port side
drifted silently away to a distance of 250 or 300 yards. The
freeing and righting of the ship started everybody, and all
hands were up in an instant. A boat was lowered, and the
instruments from the observatory ar.d various small articles
which had been left on the ice were gotten on board, and the
dogs ferried from the receding floe to that on the starboard
side, to which the ship was now made fast. The Esquimau
dogs won't take to the water if they cap help it, unlike the
Polar bears, who take to it as naturally as fish. One of the
Kamtschatkan dogs, which stood with us to the bitter end, was
called ' Kasmatka.' He had made friends with one of the
seamen, Grerty, and when he saw his friend on the opposite
floe he waded in and swam the gap. The rest dipped their
feet in the water and backed out, yelping and howling, feeling
that they were abandoned and about to drift off from their
human protectors. When all was snug, the ship was hauled
into a rticess like a dock or Irnette. It was manifest to the
whole crew that if the ice came together, as Mr. Dunbar, the
ice-pilot, said, 'we'd either go under or on top.' By two or
three o'clock all was quiet and the people had turned in, but
before six in the morninij of the 12th, the ice was ciittincr or
grinding on the port side to such an extent that we all turned
out. The ice nipped and squeezed the vessel many times, so
as to force the oakum and pitch up out of the decks, the deck
beams rowing up so as to open the seams, and upon the sud-
den relieving of the pressure the decks would spring back with
such force as to eject half the water from a bucket which was
on the deck amidships. This continued during the day, nip-
ping and crowding, at times remaining quiet, until 3 p. m., when
the ice had forced itself underneath the forepart of the ship
and threw the bows well up out of the ice, unfortunately de-
presshig the stern. The ice beneath seemed to hold her by
the keel and canted her to starboard, also depressing the stern
and caused the ice to pile up on the starboard quarter. At
this time the ice ceased crowding and we could see the dam-
age done to - the forepart; two scarfs had been pushed out
of place. DeLong ordered me to get out the camera to
take a photbgraph of the ship as she lay, we still having
hopes that the ice would remain quiet and that all the damage
was done that would be, and still hoping to free the ship. I
exposed a plate about 4 p. m., and was in the dark room de-

UNFORTUNATE EXPEDITION OF THE JEANNETTE.

191

veloping it when the ice commenced to charj^e again. Tb<^
sliip evidently was going to pieces. The order was passed for
all hands to abandon the ship. At this time we had seven or
more on the sick-list, including Lieutenant Chip, Mr. Dannen-
hower, Mr. Newcomb, the taxidermist, Alcxei, seamen Cooney»
Stewart, Charlie Tong Sing, and fireman Lauderback and
others. DeLong took command of the deck, and, smoking
his pipe on the bridge, quietly gave the orders to lower the
boats, directing the few remaining officers on duty to see
about getting out the sick, the provisions, clothing, arms and
ammunition and all other equipments necessary for our
retreat.

"A regularly organized and systematic bill for the abandon-
ment of the ship, in case of its destruction by the ice, had
been prepared by DeLong before we entered the ice, and
each officer was detailed to look after some particular part
of the equipment. In case of the sickness of any officer his
duty was to be performed by some other officer of the ship.
As the ice kept crowding upon the poor old Jeannette she
keeled over to the starboard, and, being raised out by the
bows, careened over until her yards touched the ice. The
smokestack was still standing, but the light iron work and
stays commenced to sheer off by the rivets, and the snapping,
banging and crashing of the timbers was like a thousand
sledges at work on as many boilers. Before the water com-
menced to rise on the ship nearly all the sick, provisions and
necessary equipment had been put on the ice. Some of the
people who were not assigned to duty had littered the cabin
with personal effects, some having had their suppers. De-
Long, Dr. Ambler and myself, having been constantly on
duty, had neglected to get supper or look after any of our
effects. When the word came from the men in the engine
room that the water was risinc: in the bilije we went below to
get our clothing, which was always kept packed in knapsacks
ready for emergency, each having also a pillow case of woollen
dothing in addition. I secured my knapsack and threw it on
the ice, but before I had time to return for the additional
clothing the water rose through the ship, filling her to the
water line. Up to this time the sides had not come in. The
water-ways and decks had split open and the deck timbers
were turning upwards, but still the ship had not made any
water until apparently a mass of ice from below wa. pushed

l.iM

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192

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

Up and tore her keel out, carrying the garboard strakes with
it. Arctic ships should have neither stern pieces, forefoot or
keel extending outside of the planking or doubling. A false
keel should be fitted, which, if pushed off by the ice, would
not cause a leak. The ship would simply have no keel, tht
keelson rising in the inside to give the requisite strength, h
is a remarkable coincidence that in both the Jeannette and
Polaris both had the forefoot pushed out and caused a con-
stant pumping out for Jj4 years. In the Jeannette wt
pumped night and day by hand, by steam or by windmill,
all of which apparatus were constructed by the force on the
ship during the eighteen months.

"It was II p. M. of the 12th before DeLong ordered ever)-
one to leave the ship. The ice had come in and crushed the
vessel, but held it fast. The water had struck as high as the
combings of the hatches. Everything necessary for the re-
treat was on the ice, nothing had been forgotten. We had
more clothing, arms, etc., placed on the ice than we could carry.
The colors were run up to the mastheads, and after DeLong
had made a thorough search to see thc.t no one was left on
board, he was the last to leave her, issuing a general order
that nobody should return on board of the wreck. That
night we made our first camp on the ice. We pitched the
tents, gathered the equipments and sleeping-bags together,
as divided into five tents, and some time after midnight turned
in. We had barely got to sleep when the floe began to break
under us. In the meantime strict orders were given to watch
for the breaking up of the floe. When it split, almost under
the camp, all hands turned out in a hurry, to find the break
transverse of the line of tents, two men barely escaping a cold
bath as the ice parted beneath them. As it was the men in
their sleeping-bags were dragged out of the water. The ice
then commencing to shift, the camp was on one side, the boats
and provisions were on the other drifting from us. These
were hurried from the moving floe to the camp side, and in
an hour we turned in again. At 4 a. m., at the calling out of
the morning watch, the man of the watch in calling of the
relief alarmed the camp by singing out: 'Turn out, fellows!
If you want to see the last of the old Jeannette now's your
time.' Some merely sat up in their tents and looked out, and
others got up. The ice had completed its work. The ship
was crushed by the ice, nearly the top from the bottom ; then,

UNFORTUNATK FXrr,T>ITION OF TIIK JEANNEITE.

193

es with
•foot or
A false
:, would
:eel, tht-
glh. It
■tte and
i a con-
ette we
windmill,
e on the

2d ever)'
shed the
fh as the
• the re-
Wehad
lid carry.
DeLong
IS left on
ral order
k. That
;ched the
[together,
It turned
to break
to watch
St under
;he break
ng a cold
men in
The ice
Ithe boats
, These
e, and in
ig outol
' of the
fellows !
iw's your
out, and
The ship
)m ; then,

casing off, the hull rapidly settled, the siiip righting as she
went down, the yards taking the ice on the side stripping up
the mast and breaking them as she passed, with a rattle, down
out of our sight.

"At six in the morning all hands turned out to visit the
|)lace, and we found little if anything left but a signal chest,
an old chair, a box of succotash which had been thrown on
the ice, and the topgallant poles. The wood we gath(M-ed up
and used for fuel in the camp. We now commenced to pre-
pare the boats and sleds or our retreat. The sleds had to
be relashed, new chocks or bolsters fitted under the bilges of
the boats ; the bread had to be packed ; the wood removed
from the alcohol cases (to reduce the weight). A sick-tent
was organized and placed under the charge of the doctor.
After a thorough organization had been effected, a general
order was posted stating that we had commenced the line of
retreat to the south, the objective point being the Lena Delta,
which was five hundred miles distant in a bee line."

Mr. Melville then gave a graphic account of the retreat
over the ice-pack, and the terrible trials which beset the trav-
ellers in their struggle to reach the first land. The line of
march was marked by a line of flags, which were set up by
DeLong and Dunbar in order to facilitate the more rapid
advance of the sledding parties. "The commanding officer
would locate himself upon a high hummock with a compass
and flag. The latter was of black stuff, a yard square, and
mounted upon a staff six feet high. The assistant v/ould
advance a half mile or more, occasionally looking back to the
leader, who would direct him to the right or left, according
to the compass bearings. The assistant then sets up a flag,
and the leader follows it up and takes his stand, the assistant
advancing as before, the sledding master working up the sleds
and boats and gathering in the flags as he mlvanced. The
line of march had to be taken around hummocks, across the
smooth places, DeLong and Dunbar invariably laying out the
line through water sometimes up to the knees and hips, and
across the roughnesses, never at any time having one mil
of straight going, over which a horse could be driven, antl
never advancing a single rod without cutting the way with
axes, pickaxes and shovels, which we were obliged to carry
with us. Before the first day's march we supposed that each
party would be able to haul its own provision sled, this load

t-1

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194

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

aggrcgalinqf looo pounds, and taking the boat upon a second
advance. But owing to the snow, which was very deep, and
in the summer time when the thermometer gets as higii as 35
or 40 degrees, became wet and soggy, this was impossible.
There were eight pieces, and it required the whole force to
traverse the distance thirteen times to move all forward ; in
other words, with the exceptions of two small sleds, only one
pfece of baggage was advanced at a time, and we had to
travel thirteen miles to make one mile good. This continued
for the first month of the march, but, of course, as the supply
of provisions grew smaller, the labor was reduced, and the
loads were reduced to five, but never below that number. Dur-
ing the whole of this time the ice was drifting to the northwest.
After having marched for fifteen or eighteen days, DeLong
having had two or three good observations of the sun, it was
discovered that we had lost twenty-four miles into the north-
west, or, after marching for two weeks, we had found our-
selves to the north. On his first observation DeLong did not
think this could be possible, but two or three days afterwards,
after working a summer, he called me to one side and told
me he did not wish any of the people to know of it, but that
we had lost twenty-four miles into the northwest, and that in
case anything should happen it was only proper that I should
know th • state of affairs. Dr. Ambler, who was passing,
and seeing us in earnest conversation, the knowledge was
also imparted to him. The sun does not always shine in the
Arctic Ocean even in the summer. It may be shining above,
but owing to the dense fogs which hang between the ice and
it, the sun's face is not seen for weeks at a time. We plodded
on in silence, not knowing how rapidly we were being drifted
to the northward, but with the hope that, as we travelled
across the pack, we might come to a place where we could
launch the boats and escape, for this was our only hope; for
when we set out we knew we had the grandest march before
us on record. A week later we found we had made twenty-
seven miles into the south and east, and had apparently
stepped off the floe strip to another, which was to the south,
and running to the southeast. DeLong told me to tell the
crew of this. As we marched along I said : * Well, boys, we
have made twenty-seven miles good into the southeast.' A
cheer went up from one end to the other of the stragglers,
and one of the men said : • Next week we'll make sixty miles/

UNFORTUNATE EXPEDITION OF THE JEANNEITE.

IP5

"When the party approacliecl Bennett Island, which was
the first land touched, the floe was so much broken that th(Mr
labor was increased by being constantly obliged to build
bricl<''es of ice, or to launch their boats and haul them out on
the opposite side of the floe, or to make rafts of great floe
pieces, putting the whole of the equipment upon it. In
launching the boats it was necessary to take out all the load,
as It was feared that unless this was done the boats' baclfs
would be broken. The party reached Thadiouska Island
after camping ten days on the ice-pack and coming through
difficulties v'hich it was thought were impossible to surmount.
When we attempted to land on Thadiouska Island," Mr. Mel-
ville went on to say, " we had great dltficuky on account of
the shoals caused by the erosion of the New Siberian Islands,
of which this is one. The whole surface of the islands has the
appearance of myriads of hay cocks. During the summer the
snow is melted and washes the soil into the sea. The winter
freezes the whole ; at the first of summer the earth is loosened
and great masses go crumbling down into the sea; the pas-
sage of the ice to the Arctic Ocean is also grinding away the
earthy part of the islands. And so all the time, by the action
of the elements and by the ice-pack, the whole chain of islands
is being denuded of earth from the mouth of the Lena tiirough
the new Siberia Islands, Bennett Island and Henrietta and
Jeannette Islands. The great rivers of Siberia are carrying
the silt from the south of Siberia, and are thus filling up the
Arctic Ocean ; but this does not account for the great shallow
sea to the northward of Siberia. We found all the way from
the Lena Delta to the New Siberian Islands the remains of
ancient forests embedded in the soft soil of tlie islands, which
are being rapidly eroded away by the ice. Where Seimanoski
war once one island, it is now three, the sea making a clean
breach over it from east to west. We saw great masses of
earth, hundreds of tons at a time, rolling down into the sea.

"The mouth of the Lena River was once north of where
the New Siberia Islands now are, and the rocky islets that
now dot the way from the promontories from the mouth of
the Lena are the only remains of what were once the earth-
clad hills of the Lena Delta. The same effects are still going
on in the Lena Delta itself. Were the conditions the same
as at the mouths of the Mississippi or the Nile, in the tem-
perate climate, the Delta would be advancing into the ocean ;

11!

io6

AUCIir i:\l'I,r)kAll()\S.

i't-.

■ k

but the L'vcrlastiiii; ice k(-'c'|).s iDovini^^ down, rarryinj^^ away tho
deposit niore rapiilly than tin; river tan inakc it, ami the ic,.
clistril)ut<'.s it all over the Arctic Ocian. WC have loimd
spixiniens of earth of all kinds three luindnd miles a\va\
from the coasts where the ice had hcvn (MnlKHlcled in the
banks and carried it off. Some of this may come from
northern islets, but we all know, who have observed tlif
citrrents in the Arctic Dcean, that the ice and driftwood from
the mouth of the RiviT Lena an: carried first to the wcstwanl,
and north and west, and then to the south and west, and the
windrows of wood on the eastern shore of Spit/.beri^en arc
carried from the mouths of Siberian rivers, and it is Im
natural to suppose that the ice follows the same general diitt
as that of the wood. In the Lena Delta I have seen trunks
of ancient trees, sixteen inches in diameter, protrudini; from
the banks forty feet above the level of the river, and the
earth is constantly tumbling down, exposing more timber em-
bedded in the banks.

"As soon as the whale-boat parted comjjany with the first
and second cutter, it became evident that it would be neces-
sary to heave to and set about making a drag or sea-anchor.
the philosophy of which is that if the boat is brought arouml
with the head to the sea, and the drag made so that it will
remain immersed, it will keep the head of the boat to the s« a
to receive the seas head on, the boat And tlrag gradually
drivinir to the leeward, the dracf haviuLi' sufficient hold on the
water to keep the boat's head to the sea ; but should the sea-
anchor come home, or the line part and the boat broach to. it
would roll over like a log. The drag, in this case, was made
o( the tent-poles lashed together and a piece of hammock-
cloth. We rounded to about nine o'clock that evening (Sep-
tember 1 2th), and rode with the sea-anchor until the next
evening at five o'clock, during which time the people were
kept busy bailing to keep the boat free of water, and the drag
was assisted by means of a steering-oar in keeping the head
to the sea. Up to this time Jack Cole had acted as coxswain
of the whale-boat, having the reputation of bcMUg one of the
best fore-and-aft sailors out of New York, and having been
one of the w^atch officers on Bennett's yacht during the
famous sea-race of the I )auntless, but he commenced to show
signs of weakness during the heavy weather of the preced-
inyf two weeks. At this time I had to divide the watches in

» il

htn

,: V )

■a

.i"t

I i

'I I

:';

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198

ARCriC EXPLORATIONS.

.•il ■

steering the boat between the three seamen, Leach, Mauson,
and Wilson.

"After leaving Wassilli Island," said Chief Engineer Mel-
ville, continuing, " the first sea that broke over the boat de-
stroyed all the snow we had from which to make our drinkjna
water, and from the time we left Seimonoffski Island until we
got to the mouth of the Lena, five days, we were without
drinking water. After the gale had abated on the evening of
the 13th, the boat was put about, and our course laid to the
southwest to Cape Barkin, the point to which I was ordered
to conduct the boat in case of a separation. On the mornina
of the 15th the boat grounded in shoal water off the Lena
Delta, but so far from land that it was invisible. We thought
there were traces of the loam of land to the southward. The
young ice was making along the shore a quarter of an inch
in thickness, impeding the progress of the boat. From our
information of the Delta we were confident that we would find
natives at the northeastern point. My instructions were that,
if I struck the north coast, I was to proceed to the east to
Barkin, and there get a pilot to conduct me into a branch ot
the river and to the nearest Russian settlement ; and my in-
structions were also to pay no attention to the others, in case
of a separation, until I got to a place of safety, after which I
was to pay attention to the rescue of the others. I worked to
the east a.long the shore, every attempt to go south being
foiled by the shoals, until toward evening, when it looked like
another gale. I put the boat under easy sail and stood to the
east, intending to go in that direction for twelve hours, and
then to the south and west twelve hours, knowing that the
east coast of the Delta ran north and south, and that the
north coast at Cape Barkin ran east and west. I also knew
that while three mouths discharged to the north, thirteen dis-
charofed to the east, and that, failing to net to Barkin, the
chances of my reaching a settlement were better on the east
coast than to find one on the north without a pilot. Many
persons have said I was lucky to ge: in on the east coasi, but it
was on the score of judgment, not. luck, and I selected the
course I did for the reasons I have given.

"At six o'clock on the morning of the i6th, we put about
and stood to the south and west, hoping to reach an east
brancli, but we had had such a fresh breeze during the night,
with a current to the eastward, that when I put about, hoping

UNFORTUNA'IE KXPI^Ul TION OF THE JEANM-riTE.

199

to make land, I found it took thirty-six hours to regain what
I had run off in the twelve hours before. Finally, we raised
mountains to the south, in the Bay of Borkhia, hut beinfT al-
most certain of finding natives at some branch of the river, I
stood to the south and west until I raised two low headlands.
The men were almost crazy for water, and eagerly dipping it
from the boat's sides declared it was fresh. I had educated
myself to go without water during the Jeannette's drift of two
years, drinking but two glasses of water between meals, de-
pending upon the coffee at breakfast and dinner, and the tea
at supper, and on the march I kept chewing a piece of wood
to induce the flow of the saliva. When the men of the boat's
crew appeared to be in extreme agony for a drink of water 1
had no feeling of thirst. To keep them quiet I ordered a pot
of tea to be made of the water, when the salt became ver)
apparent and it was rejected. I then told the men they could
have all the water they wanted at the headlands we had just
seen, and, as we could make out logs on the beach, we were
all eager for a landing. There was a slight swell, and the
boat broached to and nearly swamped, and it was with diffi-
culty that we got her off, and kept the middle of the channel,
and worked up into the river.

"The question now arose in my mind whether to obey the
orders I had received and go to Cape Barkin, or go on up the
river. Peterman's chart, the only one I had, was dotted all
over with marks indicatino- huts, and other information led us
to suppose that the Delta was swarming with native life.
Some urged that I should go to Barkin, and I finally said that
if I did not effect a landing by noon I would turn back and
go to Barkin, though loath, after the experiences of the last
few days, to put to sea again. At noon we were about to gc
about, but some one said that the river was as larcje as the
Mississippi, and must be a main branch of the Lena. I only
wanted some oood reason not to 00 to sea, and we went on
up the river and effected a landing at an abantloned hut at
evening. We were so cramped as to be barely able to walk,
being frozen from the knees down. Two or three of the
party who had been exempted from duty had rubbed their
limbs with towels, but I and the majority of the working force
had our feet and legs frozen so badly as to be unable to walk,
and we had to creeo ashore. MoorinQ: the boat, we waded
around m the icy water to increase the circulation and to

ill

■11

200

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

1:, *

withdraw the frost from our hmbs. A fire was built in the
hut, and aftcjr we had removed our foot-gear and went near
the fire, the pain was excruciating, and we had lo withdraw.
Water bhsters appeared from my knees to my toes until my
Hmbs were in a condition as if they had been scalded, and
the feet were swollen so that it was impossible to get my
moccasins on without cutting them.

" The next day, from the trend of the river, and from my
study of our only chart, I believed it to be the main cast
branch of the Lena, many landmarks, such as islands in the
mid-channel, adding to the evidence. There was but one
river on the chart that trended to the north and west o-i
entering, and this particular branch trended from north ^y
west to west-northwest, and never at any time to the south
and west. We continued on until we came to a bold head-
land, where there was a short bend and a long stretch of
river due south, confirming us in the belief that wc; were in
the main branch, and that we had turned the point which
would lead us to where we could find natives within ten or
twelve miles. I was entirely mistaken, however; I had
entered an east branch, and the branch did trend to the north
and west, but when I turned to go south I found I was still
in the Delta. We camped at this headland, some of the
party goi ;■ up to the highlands. This we called 'Mud
Camp,' because of the oozy bed of the river, in which the
majority of us slept. The next morning it was with difficulty
that we got away, on account of the crippled condition in
which we were. We stood to the south with a fresh breeze,
the boat taking: in water. Cominof in sieht of two or three
well-built huts on the west bank, 1 cO'Ucluded to haul out and
rest and dry our clothes, and for this reason called it the
' Dry-out Camp,' From the evidence of the fish ends and
trails it was clear that the natives had left but a few days,
The next morning we stood to the south, intending to keep
along the west bank of the river, but when the narrow branch
expanded into a great bay I then made up my mind that 1
was still in the Delta. Proceeding to the south, on the dis-
tant hills I raised several huts, which we eagerly watched for
signs of life. I told the crew to work with a will and we
would stop there for our dinner, but we found ourselves in a
labyrinth of quicksands, sand-spits and shoals. There was
plenty of water thinly laid on and very much spread out, the

UNFORTUNATE KXrEDITION OF THE JEANNEITE.

20I

land appearing in spots. It was impossible to nro a hundred
yards without bringing up, but we at last effected a landing
to the south and east of the village, watching for a sign of
life — smoke, for instance — but we were too far away to go
to it on foot or get the boat around. We ate our modicum
of pemmican and prepared our tea, which we had carried in
a bag, and which had been washed about in the salt water in
the bottom of the boat. Up to the time of the separation of
the boats the rations had been a pound of pemmican and a half
pound of bread, but when the latter gave out the pemmican
was increased to one and a half pounds per man per day.
As soon as we parted from the others I put the men on half
the former rations, or about three-quarters of a pound, which
was equal to three cubic inches.

*' Having had our dinner, we got ready to keep on by the
west bank against the current, and were about to shove
off when we saw three canoes and three men paddling to-
wards us. We pulled towards them, when they showed signs
of fear and a desire to scud by us. I beckoned to the natives
to approach, but they kept in the distance shaking their heads.
Two of them at length passed us, but one younger than the
rest came alongside the whaleboat, crossing himself and dis-
playing a religious medal which he wore at his neck. I
directed one of the men to get out a piece of pemmican and
offer it to him, and at the same time told another of the crew
to look away, but when the cant)e was close enough to seize
and hold it. He did so, and this alarmed the native very
much, but I tried to soothe and reassure him by showing him
the hatchets and various other articles in the boat. By this
time the current had drifted us down to about where we had
camped, and the other two natives had hauled out. We ac-
cordingly landed, and I set up the tea-kettle, and then the
others came up and joined us. They had been fishing at the
place to which I was trying to get during the preceding day.
None of us could understand their language, so we had re-
course to signs. The sailors found an old goose, and fish
and venison, all of which, excepting the venison, was decayed.
We then began to form a vocabulary of the Yakut tongue,
the natives soon understanding what we wanted, and readily
telling us the names of objects which we pointed out. I
sketched a reindeer, and the natives at once exclaimed
'olean/ and in this way we rapidly wrote down fifty or sixty

202

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

i-U

■«■) . I

: 4 ; *

of their words. We drank our tea, and supposing they mlHit
like some of our alcohol for a drink I put a tablespoonful in
the tea for the natives. Thty took to it kindly, and one of
them, who was called Theodore, wanted to take a drink from
the demijohn, but I prevented him. Finally I took a knife,
which one of the natives carried, and by signs asked liim
where he had gotten It. He immediately began to imitate
the motions of a blacksmith beating the blade into shape, and
said, ' Bulunga ! Bulunga ! ' This turned out to be a Cossack
setdement on the Lena, Eulun, and this was the first intima-
tion I had that they knew of its whereabouts. I at once drew
in my note-book a sketch of a village, putting two mosques
in it. The Yakut rubbed out one of the mosques and attain
exclaimed: 'Bulunga.' I then drew a picture of the whale-
boat with all the party in it, and represented one of the
natives in his canoe leading the boat, the other two paddling
along after us. They understood this, but when I insisted
that they were to take us to Bulunga, they made me under-
stand that it was impossible, because of the ice in the river,
which was not strong enough to travel over, but yet was thick
and heavy enough to impede navigation.

" We then told the natives," continued Mr. Melville, " that
we wanted to get to a place where we could eat, sleep, and
dry our clothes. They agreed to pilot us, and we followed
them to Borkhia, the place on the headland to which I had
been tiying to get all day. The place was deserted, and but
two of the huts were found to be tenable. The names of the
natives were Malinka Tomat, or Little Thomas, Karini and
Theodore. That eveninpf one of them said he would q-q for
the head man of the village, and during the night Kanni left
the camp for this purpose. I'n the morning, being anxious to
push on to Bulun, and being unable to persuade Malinka
Tomat to pilot us, we pushed on to the south, but soon found
ourselves in the great bay which had devilled us so before.
By 3 o'clock in th.e afternoon the weather became bad, and
we went back ; but night set in, and I sheltered the boat
under the lee of a shoal, driving the tent-poles into the mud
to hold her. We passed a terrible night, and those who were
not frozen before were badly frozen. In the morning the
snow had fallen, changing the whole appearance of the coun-
try, but I landed near our camp, and the men soon found
Borkhia, and we went back there. As we approached, four

UNFORTUNATE EXPEDITION OF THE JEANNETTE.

203

natives came to greet us, the fourth being WassilH Koolgar,
or ' Wilham with the Cut Ear,' the head man of the village.
We remained there over night, Wassilli assuring me that we
could not go to Bulun; but I was so urgent that he finally
said yes. I called his attention to the fact that our boat drew
thirty inches of water, while his required but two or three
inches. He put his paddle into the water at the stern of the
whaleboat to gauge her depth, and cut a notch in the handle,
showing that he fully comprehended what was expected of
him.

"The start was accordingly made, two of the canoes going
ahead and one in the rear, but we found that Wassilli was
unable to pilot us over the shoal. He stood to the north and
then to the east, taking us out to sea to one of the oudying
islands, a voyage requiring three or four days. During this
trip they set their nets and caught us some excellent fresh
fish. Our legs were badly swollen with frost and the hard
labor which we had had to perform. On the fourth or fifth
day with the natives we arrived at the village of Arree, which
consisted of about a half dozen huts. We then learned that
Wassilli had been shot in the arm, and was too weak to go
on any farther with us then. He went off and presently came
back in a boat which had been made from i ^-inch plank,
shaped like a whaleboat, in which were seated a piratical-
looking man named Spiradon, two women, each of whom had
lost an eye, and a young man, who was said to be Spiradon's
nephew. This youth, Kapiocan, was to pilot us. They
brought us a small amount of provision, consisting of a goose
within the carcass of which three others were stuffed. This
was to be our food supply, with what fish we could catch, un-
til we reached Jainavialock.

"We remained at Arree over night, and went on for two
days, arriving at Jamavialock at noon on the 26th of Septem
ber, 1 88 1.

"The natives came down to meet us, and amonof them I
noticed a red-headed Russian exile and ex-soldier, who had
been exiled for the theft of ammunition. On landing. Leach
and I were so much crippled that we had to crawl about on
our hands and knees. We, with Lauderback and one or two
others in the same condition, sat down on a dog-sled which
was near, whereupon the women hauled us up to the hut of
the starosta, one Nicholai Shaorra.

■•:! II
.*■■; f

-I-IPII

204

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

ii'ijj'

i'- J

lilji-i:;'

{■;

H I

"A description of thi§ hut is as follows : it was rectano-ular
in form, 16 by 20 feet, and on the interior was 9 feet dear to
the ceiling, the sides sloping- inwards from the base like a
truncated cave. It was built of neatly hewn timber six inches
wide, planted in the ground and inclined inward, so that the
base would be about thirty inches from a perpendicular line
let fall from the tops of the planks. The roof rests on strin-
<^ers at the top of the inclined timbers, and consisted of close
hewn timbers calked in widi reindeer moss. The hut was
banked up with earth to a height of three or four feet, and a
thickness of three feet, and over this a layer of moss, one foot
thick, was placed. The door was at one end of the hut, and
immediately behind the huge fire-place, constructed of a box,
four feet square, and raised about four feet above the ground.
The floor was of timber, and around the hut, under the slop-
ing sides, were the beds or berths, each six feet long, about
thirty inches wide and separated by partitions. There were
two at the far end and three on each side, making eight
berths in all. The chimney was built up from the fire-place
and led through the roof, being of slicks covered with clay
from the bottoms of the ponds. Dry lumps of this clay are
usually kept stored in the huts to repair any damage which
miofht be done to the structure. At the rear were either one
or two windows, sixteen inches square. In the summer time
these are left open, but in winter they are closed by slabs of
ice. Early in the winter season, when the ice is from four to
six inches thick, sixteen or twenty slabs are cut and stored
upon the top of the house. When the cold weather sets in
one of these slabs is set in place, and a mixture of snow and
warm water is put into the chinks. This freezing all the
openings are closed, and light is admitted through the ice.
The inner surface is scraped with a knife or piece of tin every
morning to remove the hoar-frost which forms in the nifrht
and which obscures the light. The temperature of the huts
ranging from 60 to 90 degrees, the ice is gradually destroyed
from the inside, and in a few weeks is pierced with holes.
Another slab is then set in its place.

"As you go into the hut, at the right-hand corner from the
back of the fire-place are stow-holes, in which food and fuel
are kept. At the far end of the room, on the right, is the
stall, or berth, occupied by the owner of the hut, while to the
left is the guests' chamber. Over this are usually placed

UNFORTUNATE EXPEDITION OF THE JEANNETTE.

205

ler one
time
abs of
"our to
stored
sets in
Dw and
all the
he ice.
every
night
■le huts
troyed
holes.

nil the
id fuel
lis the
1 to the
)laced

portraits of the saints and other rel^ious pictures. Along
the right side are the berths of the relatives of the family, de-
scending down in regular order to the corner, which is occu-
pied by some old pensioner. I have never been in a Yakut
hut where ther-^ was not some poor person in one of these
pens. The stalls on the opposite side are where the strangers
are located. In this particular house to which we were taken,
forty people slept overnight. After the fire goes out, the old
woman usually goes outside and places a board over the top
of the chimney, I need hardly say that under these circum-
stances vermin are plentiful in the houses.

"When we reached the starosta's hut we at once turned in,
and slept until we were aroused for a breakfast of boiled fish.
We then went to sleep again, but were aroused at 9 p. m. and
given a feed of goose. The geese are killed in the summer,
when in the pin-feathers, as then they are unable to fly. They
are driven into flocks and beaten to death, the natives killing
hundreds and thousrmds of them in this way. The people
ordinarily use bows and arrows, as they have very few guns.
The geese are not cleaned at all, but are hung up in pairs by
the necks, simply to keep them from being stolen by foxes.
All the juices settle to the lower ends, and they become
putrid and full of maggots. When the winter comes they are
frozen solid, and are then stored away. When the geese are
to be used they first hang them up at the fire to thaw out,
and I have seen them so putrid that they would drop apart.

"The next day I said that I must go to Bulun, but the
native- refused to guide me. Towards 10 o'clock, however,
the weather cleared and they agreed, but they said that it
would t;ike fifteen days for the trip. They then gathered to-
gether sixty fish, of about four pounds each, which I was told
would be the food supply for the W'^ le party, including
Yapheme Koppiloff, the Russian exile, I objected to starting
with such a meagre supply, but they pointed to their nets and
said they would catch more as we proceeded. I was afraid
to go under these conditions, but decided to make the ven-
ture. Leac^i asked to be left behind, saying that he would
rather die where he was, but I would not permit it. We got
off finally, but about three or four o'clock that afternoon the
ice commenced to run one and a quarter and two inches in
thickness, and the natives positively refused to go any farther.
I was not sorry, and we ran back to Jamavialock in less than

■r(..f' )

206

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

an hour. The natives pulled the boat well out upon the
beach, and we were hauled up to the hut again by the women,
and returned to our quarters on the 27th of September, this
time in a hut by ourselves.

"I now made the natives understand who and what we
were," the chief-engineer went on to say. *' Upon a table
in cur hut I placed a large log, to represent the Jeannette,
and indicated the boats by small sticks. Illustrating the de-
struction of the vessel, the log was thrown under the table,
and in the same way I told them of the separation of the
boats in the gale. I learned from the Russian of General
Tcheranieff, the commandant of the district, and I used his
name to threaten the natives. I would tell them that, unless
they made every effort to get me and my men to Bulun, I
would complain to General Tcheranieff, and he would cause
them to be punished. I feared scurvy, as I know of a case
of a Russian officer and party who died of it in that region,
and I know also that there never was a ship that was two
winters in the Arctic seas where there was no scurvy. Our
limbs were swollen and putty-like, we had no bread to eat,
and nothing but the putrid meat which the natives gave us,
and I felt it was necessary to push on. The next day the
whole bay was covered with ice and the wind was blowing so
fiercely that everything had to be tied fast on the island. I
saw it was impossible to advance, and we had to sit down and
wait for the return of a messenger to the Cossack sergeant,
who I learned was in command at Bulun. We therefore
wrote out an account of our situation, I in English, Mr. Dan-
enhower in French, Mr. Lauderback in German, and Mansen
in Swedish. This I sewed up in an oilskin bag, and placed it
in the hands of Nicholai, with orders to forward it as soon as
he could."

Mr. Melville and the crew of the whale-boat had reached
Jamavialock in the latter part of September. They were
almost naked, their moccasins worn out and the full rigor of
a Siberian winter was settinqf in. " We had been there for a
week," to take up the story in Mr. Melville's words, "when
we heard that there was another Russian in the camp, one
Kusma, an exile. He had crossed the bay in some way,
though the ice was not yet firm. I sent for him and had a
talk. He promised that he would come back to us on the
following Thursday. I took him out and showed him the

UNFORTUNATE EXPEDITION OF THE JEANNETTE.

207

whale-boat, telling him that I wanted him to carry a despatch
to the Cossack commandant at Bulun, and that I would give
him the boat if he would bring help. Bulun was 280 versts
distant (a verst being 66 per cent, of a mile) across a range
of niountains 1,300 feet high. Kusma seemed delighted at
the idea of owning such a boat, and he promised that on the
following Sunday he would be ready to go. I proposed that
he should take Bartlett with him, not wishing to send Danen-
hower, who h?d been on the sick-list for two years, but Kus-
ma assured me that he could go faster alone, as he had a
short team of dogs, and it would increase the load from 600
to 800 pounds. This was the reason I did not send a mes-
senger with him to Bulun.

"On the evening of Kusma's departure I heard that
Nicholai Shagra was to go too. Upon inquiring about this,
I learned that Kusma was under the surveillance of the
starosta of the village, who was responsible to the Russian
authorities for him. They were to be back in five days. By
diis time the force was getting in pretty good condition. I
had complained of the short allowance of food, but it was
increased. Eight days passed and Kusma had not returned,
and I was growi»ig very impatient. I then expressed a deter-
mination to start for Bulun, and set out to march the distance,
but I was dissuaded by Mr. Danenhower, who said that we
might look for the return of our messenger at any hour, and
'why risk the safety of the whole party by such a march ? ' I
decided that he was right. We waited for thirteen days, when
Kusma arrived — on the evening of the 29th of October. He
brought us a small amount of provisions, a ball of tallow,
some tobacco and two letters, one of which was from the
priest at Bulun.

"At last, after fumbling about in his pocket for a long time,"
he produced a piece of paper, which he gave to me. He ex-
plained that he had met two 'Americansk * on the way, and
that they had given him the paper. It proved to be a pencil-
note from Noros and Nindemann, which said that they had
come for help to go to the rescue of Captain DeLong and
nine other persons. There had been thirteen in the first
cutter, and by this account one was missing. This was the
first intimation I had that any of the party was dead. As
soon as I got this note I said that we were to go back at once
to find Nindemann and Noros. Kusma told me that the two

'J ,

t i«3

,W,*, ••!

.1-* s^iN

h ,,il

208

ARCTIC EXI'LOKATIONS.

seamen had been picked up in a hut (at Bulkoor), that they
were sick, and had been taken to Bulun, and that the Cossack
commandant was to come to meet us.

" Kusma said that he could not start back at once, for the
reason that his dogs were footsore, and the natives n(.'V('r
drive them two days in succession if they can help it. Mis
excuse for being so long as thirteen days on the journey was
that after he had crossed the mountains from Tamose to the
banks of the Lena, he found that the ice in the river had
broken up and run out, and he had to wait ; that when he ^rot
to Bulun the Cossack commandant would not let him remain
there but started him back at once. I then sought other
means of transportation, but Kusma volunteered to go to
Tamose, and that we could start the next day, the 30th of
October, by getting a fresh team of dogs.

"Seven months after, when I found DeLong and the people
dead, I found also his record, on which wac written: 'October
30th, Boyd and Goertz died and Mr. Collins' dog.' This was
the last entry, written by DeLong on the morning of the day
I left Jymavialock to go to Bulun to find Noros and Ninde-
mann, to learn the whereabouts of DeLong, and of the track
by which I could go to their succor. The receipt of that note
on the 29th of October was the first knowledge any of us had
that any of the other boats' crews had landed. It had been
the common conversation that it was impossible that any of
the boats should have lived through the gale, and even at the
moment of the arilval of Kusma the subject of the talk
amongst the men was the undoubted loss of the other two
boats' crews."

•' On the 30th of October," continued Mr. Melville, " Was-
silli Koolgar was at Jamavialock with nine dogs and a broken
sled, the best he could get. I was not sufficiently clothed for
such a trip, having but a pair of cassimere trousers, a sealskin
jacket worn threadbare, and half a blanket wrapped around
my body. My limbs were frozen from my knees to my toes,
and were covered with sores and scabs ; my nails were frozen
off or shrivelled up, and my footgear was insufficient. We
took a small amount of provisions, and started out in the
dead of winter to go 280 versts in an open dog-sled. We
reached Tamose, where it was necessary to renew the sled,
and this kept us the whole of the 30th. We slept there, and
the next day started to cross the mountains. All through this

UNFORTUNATE KXrKDllION OV THE JEANNISTTE,

209

section little huts called ' povarnniars,' or cook-houses, have
been provided for the safety of travellers — the traders and
natives. At midnight we stopped at one of these and had
supper. It was now the ist of November, but it was blowing
so hard that Wassilli would not start until noon, stopping at
the second povarnniar, where we met a lot of traders and
natives who were bound nordi.

"When we arrived at the next village, Kumaksurt, the dogs
^ave out. We should have got to Burulak, but I secured a
team of reindeer and Wassilli returned. I slept that night at
Burulak, and, getting fresh teams, on the night of die 2d of
November arrived at Bulun, The deer-drivers knew what
my errand was, and, stopping at the public place, ushered me
to an outer part. They pointed to a door, which I threw
open, and there saw Noros behind a table cutting a slice from
a loaf of black bread, and Nindemann was lying on a berth,
the place being cold and miserable. I waited to see if Noros
would recognize me, and then said: 'Hello, Noros; how are
you?' He dropped the knife and exclaimed: * My God, Mr.
Melville, is that you ? We thought the whale-boat crew were
all dead ! ' Nindemann rolled out of his berth, and we shook
hands very heartily.

"The men related the story of their tiials and toils, after
the separation of the boats on the night of the gale of the 1 2th
of September, much the same as I have related. They as-
sured me that it was the general opinion that the second
cutter and the whale-boat had been swamped, and they sup-
posed that they two were the only survivors of the whole ex-
pedition. They related the difficulties of handling the boat;
how the mast was broken off and carried away, and how they
finally landed in one of the north mouths of the river, aban-
doning the boat half a mile from shore ; and how Errickson's
feet had been frozen from his having to sit at the tiller, ren-
dering amputation necessary, and how he had died and been
buried in the ice. After a number of delays they arrived at
a point of land overlooking the bay in which I had been so
devilled. DeLong concluded to send Noros and Nindemann in
advance, he having supposed that he had entered the n.ain
branch of the river, and that he was but a few miles from the
natives. The men told me of their wanderings, how they
were pressed for food, and had given up all hope. They,
stopped to rest at a hut where they found some broken sleds.

ft' T„

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2IO

arctic: rxpLouATroNs.

W !

uM^ii

After they had left the ' place of the sleds,' ihcy rcr^rcttcd
leaving it and wanted to return, but diey saw two huts and
crawled into them, unable to go any farther. Tliey fouiv]
there the remains of some decayed fish, from which thf> oil
had been extracted by the natives for use in their lamp;-,.
The men were there two or three days resting. Knowimr
that they were on the main branch of the river, seeing-; tht>
mcMuitains at the sides, they were about to start on when
Noros complained of weakness, and they stayed a day longer.

" They now heard a rustling outside the hut, and Ninde-
mann advanced with the gun, and, opening the door, saw a na-
tive, who dropped down upon his knees and begged not to he
shot. I ie told the seamen he had nothing to eat, but that he
would go and bring them provisions. He went off and soon
returned widi two other natives, food, and a team. Nindc-
mann and Noros tried to make them understand that there
were two men to the northward in danger of starvation, but
the natives could not comprehend, and hurried them on to a
native village — Kumaksurt — and thence to Bulun.

" They complained that since they had been in the village
they had Jiad litde to eat except dried fish, which the natives
had given them, and that they were only treated well when
the Cossack was there. There was plenty of meat they told
me, but they could not get any. I inquired and found that
the starosta, the priest, and the assistant priest were in the
village ; that the old priest, owing to a love of the ardent, was
not fit to be seen, but I saw the young priest, and told him
that the two men were in danger of dying from the condition
they were in. He replied that he had no authority m the vil-
lage, and that he did not dare even to enter any house. I
then selected a vacant one and told him to open the door. I
said my government would be responsible for whatever I did.
I then gathered together such utensils as were needed, and
got men to haul wood and cook for Noros and Nindemann,
and care for them as long as they were there. In the mean-
time I affiliated with the priest ; I told him that I had hoped
to have met the Cossack and to have turned him back, and
that after learning the facts that he would go with me on the
search for DeLong. Not knowing that there were two ways,
one for dogs and one for reindeer, I had missed him. As he
had left with teams and material to bring my whole party to
Bulun, all I could do was to wait their arrival.

ran)

Nil '-

m .

212

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

" I had learned that Noros and Nindemann had left DeLono-
twenty-two days before, and that then the people had had
nothinij to eat for four or five days. They said it was useless
for me to seek them, as they were all dead long ere this time,
and that the bodies would be covered with snow, and it would
be impossible to find them. They had recommended waitinc
until spring to prosecute the search, both the seamen bi inir
as yet unable to travel. In the meantime 1 had written out a
full statement of my course. One evening I had gone to sec
the priest, when an old woman came saying that another
Americansk had arrived. I went back to the hut and found
tliat Bardett had come from Jamavialock with a paper, re-
turned to me from Danenhower, V'/hich the Cossack had car-
ried from Nindemann and Noros to that place with the inten-
tion of delivering it to me. It was a telegram which they had
prepared for the United States Minister at St. Petersburg,
but which the Cossack, knowing of my presence, instead oi
sending to Irkoutsh had carried to me. Danenhower, sup-
posing it to be of importance, had sent it back to me. Bart-
lett returned by the reindeer teams for the transportation of
the party to Bukin. The Cossack had also sent a letter in
Russian to the starosta, directing him to supply me with a
dog-team, clothing, and to deliver me at tlie midway station,
where the next day I was to meet the Cossack, who would
supply the teams for the search.

"At Bulun," Chief-Engineer Melville went on to say, "I
met the native who had rescued Noros and Nindemann; and
the gollivar or head man of the village — Tomat Constantino
Mokloploff — who were to accompany me on the journey;
they being able to pick up the trail from where the sailors
were found at Bulkoor. We travelled by reindeer-teams
fram Bulun to Burulak, but were disappointed in not findmg
Sergeant Baislioff, the Cossack commandant, and Mr. Danen-
hower's party. We remained there over night, and about
eleven o'clock the next morning the party arrived with sev-
eral dog-teams. After breakfast I gave Mr. Danenhower
written orders to proceed to Bulun, and after preparing food
and clothing for the entire party, wiiH the exception of Bart-
lett, who was to be left behind to look for ir.f^ in case of dis-
aster, and to proceed southward to Yakutsh to await my
.oming. Before leaving Bulun I had given Bartlett verbal
orders, which I reported to Danenhower, to remain at Bulun,

UNFORTUNATE EXPEDITION OF THE JEANNETTE.

213

)eLon_fr

lad had

useless

lis lime,

it would

waiting
n being

tn out a
e to see
another
id found
iper, re-
had car-
le in ten -
they had
;ersburcT,
stead ol
ver, sup-
i. Bart-
tation of
letter in
e with a
' station,
10 would

say,

ann., and
istandne
ourney;
le sailors
r-teams
It find'ng
Danen-
d about
ith sev-
nhower
nc^ food
fBart-
i of dis-
ait my
it verbal
Bulun,

and if I did not come back in thirty days to organize a party
to come in search of me. At Burulak Danetihower informed
me of the entire breaking down of Jack Cole. During the
sled<'^e ride from Jamavialock it was almost impossible to keep
him on the sled, and to prevent him from throwing his cloth-
in'i" away. His mind was entirely gone, and he required the
constant care and attention of his messmates.

"I left Burulak at noon, with two dog-teams driven by
Wassilli Koolgar and Tomat Constantine Mokloploff, each
team consisting of eleven dogs. Before starting the Cossack
commandant informed me that he had supplied the natives
with provisions for ten days, for men and dogs, allowing a fish
for each man and one for each dog per day. That evening
we brought up at a station to the northward, some forty
versts distant, called Kumaksurt, wdiere we stayed over night.
The next morning we proceeded to Bulkoor, fifty-five versts
off. This was the place at which Noros and Nindemann were
found. It is located on the west bank of the Lena, at the
mouth of a small stream entering the river, and on a high
bank about forty feet above the level of the river. Bulkoor
consisted of one polatkin, a balagan, and a storehouse. We
found evidenc ^ of the two seamen having been there. We
turned in for the night, and the next day it was storming so
hard that the natives could not be induced to move. There
was a izale of wind, and the snow drifted so that it was im-
possible to face it, and there was nothing left but to camp and
await the abateme nt of the storm.

"The day following we set out at daylight and found the
hut known as the 'place of the sleds,' wdiere Noros and Nin-
demann had stopped, and had burned the sleds for fuel, and
to which they wanted to return to die. The two sailormen
bad informed me that wdien they left DeLong encamped on
the north side of a small branch of the river, wdiich DeLong
supposed to be the main one, he had told them to push on,
and that he would follow as rapidly as he could in their foot-
steps. For this reason I tried my utmost to retrace the
steps of Noros and Nindemann, in hopes of meeting DeLong
or some of his party. Wc; pushed on, following the west
bank, as DeLong had directed the seamen. They had in-
formed ine that after leaving DeLcii;.>- up to the time they
had reached the place of the sleds, they had not lodged in any
hut, and our only guide was to keep the west bank of the

U i

it I
tUPl' 'it

II-:- .(■

iil IS

214

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

river Aboorde. The natives said it was ninety versts to the
nearest povarnniar. It liad come on to storm and blow, with
a driving snow-storm from the north and east.

"We struggled on until night, when we dug a hole in the
snow bank and camped for the night. It stormed so that it
was impossible to build a fire, so we ate our raw frozen rish
and crept into our sleeping-bags. The mode of campincr in
the snow," explained the explorer, " is as follows : The natives
with their shovels, which they always carry with them to dio-
the snow from their traps or from the doors of the povarn-
niars, dig a hole six feet square by three feet deep in the
bank, throwing the snow to the windward. The sleds are
then arranged to the windward, the sleeping-bags put in the
bottom of the pit, and the dogs on top of them to keep us
warm. The sleds being to the windward, the wind and snow-
will ricochet, the blast driving over the sleepers beneath, the
snow gradually filling up the pit and keeping them warm. It
matters litde how cold or how miserable a man may be when
he first crawls in, even when the thermometer is 40 degrees
below zero, he will warm up with a gentle glow and remain
so four or five hours. In the meantime the driving snow gets
in the interstices of the bag, filling in around the neck and
hood and sleeves ; the warmth of the body melts the snow
;ind the sleeper becomes wet and begins to chill. Therefore,
every four or five hours he has to be awakened and made to
turn out and get his blood in circulation ; otherwise a person
would be very apt to freeze. For instance, on this occasion,
the snow had driven in my coat, and thawing had v.ct my
sleeve. I was aroused by a sharp biting pain in the back of
my left wrist, and hastily pulling my sleeve away i n .noved
with it a piece of the skin which had been frozen to my cooly-
tang or jacket.

" In the morning it was still storming, but we ate our raw
fish and proceeded along the west bank to a place designated
as that of ' the two crosses,' by the two sailor men. We found
there two abandoned huts and traces of where the two men
had been searching for food, but I saw no evidence of the De-
Long party having followed the trail. We had now been 48
hours without warm food, and it was still snowing and blowing
terribly, but the huts were uninhabitable. The dogs were
exhausted and it seemed impossible to go on. The natives
had been hauling the sleds, but I was so badly frozen that I

UNFORTUNATE EXPEDITION OF THE JEANNETTE.

215

could not run alongside the sled to keep up the circulation
and I was suffering in the lower limbs terribly. There was
nothing to do but to camp down in the snow a second time.
We had now arrived at the mouth of the Lena river proper
where it debouches into a great bay, the place being marked
by a magnificent landmark — the ' stolb,* — which in Russian
means *a stone column' like a pilaster. The seamen had
told me that in wandering across the bay seeking for the
river they passed around the base of the stolb. We searched
the sand spits and shoals in the vicinity, and as night came
on the natives said the nearest hut was a povarnniar at Mot
Vay, 25 versts distant, on the west bank of the river. We
reached there some time after midnight. The natives cleared
the snow from the door and we crept in, to find the interior
partly filled with snow because of a board in the roof having
been left off. The natives murmured at this, but we soon
had a fire, the sleds were unloaded and we made a kettle of
liot tea.

"As soon as the fire was lighted I noticed that the sticks
on the three sides of the floor were disarranged and removed
from their usual place, and had been arranged with the ends
towards the fire, the farther end raised up like a couch or
the beds of the North American Indians. I at once called
attention to this, and asked if that was the Yakut custom, the
natives replying that it was not. It struck me that some of
the DeLong party had slept there, and I supposed tha*^ it had
been Alexei sent out as a second search party. In tlie morn-
ino- 1 found a leather waistbelt with a buckle that I recoiinized
as having been made on the Jeannette. I made a further
search for evidence as to who mio^ht have been th ^re, bearing
in mind that the two seamen had never been in any hut until
they reached the place of the sleds. I felt that I was one step
in advance of where the seamen had been, and that I was on
DeLonq's track, but I subsequendy found that Noros and
Nindemann had slep*: there and had forgotten all about it,
and that the belt was one which Noros had used to strap a
blanket around him."

"When I was ready to start," continued Mr. Melville, " the
natives refused to ,s:::o farther north, saying that they had no
provisions. This exasperated me, as I had the assurance
of Baishoff that I had a ten days' supply for men and dogs.
Persuasion was useless, and I seized the dog-stakes and laid

' I

'If

' 'I

2l6

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

■•*i

about me across the heads and shoulders of the two Yakuts
who ran away. I found I had made a mistake, and fearing
they would desert me, I seized a gun and fired — not to shoot
them but to bring them back. As soon as I did this they
dropped down upon their hands and knees, and screamed
* Finstocki sok,' no gun, and crawled back. After they l,r,d
returned I loaded the gun again and demonstrated how well
I could shoot by firing into the side of a hut, tearing out a
place a foot in diameter, much to the fear and astonishment

of the natives.

I made them understand that I must go on.

A BATTLE WITH BLADDER-NOSES.

They assured me that if I did I would die, they would die and
the dosfs would die ; that we had nothinsf to eat and the doers
nothmg ; that it was 250 versts into the northwest to the nearest
settlement; that the dogs were broken down and unable to
travel, and I was unable to walk. They unloaded the sleds
to show me the provisions, I having thought they were
lying. I assured them that we had plenty of food while we
had the dogs ; that ten of my friends were dying of starva-
tion, and that I must go on. They replied that my people
were dead, and that there was no reason for the rest perish-
ing for dead men ; that in the spring, when the snow was

UNFORTUNATE EXPEDITION OF THE JEANNETTE.

217

<rone, we woulrl fmd them. I insisted that we must go on as
\ot\<y as the dogs lasted, at which they laughed, and said I
^voiild not eat the dogs. I assured them 1 would not only
eat the dogs, but that when the dogs were gone I would cat
Yakut. This startled them, and they immediately began cross-
\ncr themselves, horrified at the idea, but it had the desired
effect, and they started reluctantly, murmuring and i-rossing
themselves.

"We followed the west bank of the river as directed by
the seamen and as DeLong had directed them, but emerging
from Mot Vay, I found there was a perfect labyrinth of
mouths of the river. All were frozen over, it is true, so that
we could sled, but the headlands rising all the way from the
west around by the north to the east as far as 1 could see,
showed there were the mouths of a dozen rivers, and as the
natives said the nearest village was 250 versts into the north-
west, and that the road lay along the west bank of the main
river, I proceeded, visiting several huts at the dividing of the
rivers. We found offal of all kinds, refuse from fish, entrails,
hoofs and other meat which had been thrown in tho ash heaps.
These we gathered up and kept for food for ourselves and
the dogs, and continued on until we reached Cath Carta, the
place of the goose, being a favorite hunting-station and the
property of Tomat Constantine Mokloploff. Here we re-
mained for a rest, and roasted some of the hoofs and fish
heads for food, the natives pulverizing some of the reindeer
horns. The deer having been killed when the horns were in
the velvet, being then soft and spongy and filled with blood»
they made a sort of meal, of which we ate, the blood and bone
pivino; distension and some nutriment."

CHAPTER XV.

.M Ml;

Ijl

Melville's narrative — [Continued).

In the Lena Delta — A Yakut Yoiirt in Winter — Del-ong's Records Found — Follo\vin;T up
DeLong's Trail — Recovery of the Records of the Jeannettc — Retreat to Noilh liuluii—
Journeying during a Siberian Winter — More Traces of DeLong's Party — Retreat Twvard
Buhin— On the Lena Delta,

Chief-Engineer Melville in continuing his narrative of
his search for DeLong and his party in the Lena Delta said:

"At Cath Carta the natives informed me that by startinc
early the next day we could make a forced march and reach
a settlement before midnight of the night following. Wc
accordingly set out at early day, in the teeth of a gale, the
dogs being so footsore they were barely able to crawl alonn-.
We travelled on in this way all day, the natives at times los-
ing the track and wandering about until they reached some
familiar landmark, or until they found marks which they had
set up themselves. These were called * nyacks,' and con-
sisted of two sticks set up in the ground and a third restinc;^
in the crotches at the top. This third stick was arranged
either in the direction of the points of the compass or toward
the nearest village. If the natives found that they had lost
the way, we continued in the direction which they thought
was the proper pne until we got to a nyack, when they would
take their direction by that, taking their bearings also by the
wind.

" I was pleased to see with what accuracy the natives would
lay down the dog stakes when I would request them to point
due north or south. They would poise the staff for a moment
and then lay it on the snow, and when I would set up the
compass I seldom found a variation of half a point from the
true course.

"We journeyed all day until night, and being cold and

miserable, I kept asking the natives how soon we would get

to our destination, to which they answered each time 'in a

little while,' until finally I got tired and stretched myself out

(218)

id^l

».

1 ,:

''fWi

( ',

; U

' i': •

r'ln

(219)

.I.ilH,

220

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

upon the sled to sleep. This alarmed the natives very much,
as they feared it was the frozen sleep of death. Af. inte rvals
they would stop to arouse me, crying out • balagan major.'
Each time I would find that no house was in sight, and it
finally resulted in my replying ' balagan soU ' — * no bala^an.'
This continued until after midnight, when from the vivacity ol"
the natives, and the manner in which they urged the dogs for-
ward, I knew that we approached a settlement. I was barely
able to sit up, but the teams stopped, and the natives raised
me up and led me forward to where a flame seemed to be
coming out of the snow bank. The dogs finding themselves
free of their load started ahead, and the natives let go of me
and ran to see after their teams, while I fell on my hands and
knees. Seeing the flame, however, I crawled towards it. In
the meantime the howling of the dogs had roused the villaoe,
and presently I saw flames jetting up out of the banks on all
sides of me. Tiie snow covered in the huts entirely, and as
I proceeded I saw the secret of the flames — it was the flash
of the torches at the entrances of the huts. The women had
lighted their flambeaux at the fire and had come to the outer
weather doors to see who had arrived.

" In describing a Yakut yourt or balagan," continued Mr.
Melville, " I gave an account of it as it appeared in the sum-
mer. In the winter, however, additional outer apartments are
constructed, sometimes as many as three opening one upon
another. In these rooms the food and hunting-gear are kept
and the dogs sheltered. The successive snows of winter bury
the hut completely, and it is necessary now to have steps from
the ground up to the top of the bank. It was at the mouth
of one of these entrances that I f.rst saw the torches. I
crawled to the mouth of one of the caves, and, being unable
to arise, I rolled down to the bottom of the steps ; the women
started back, wondering who the stranger could be. I called
out: 'How are you, g^rls? Help me up!' They looked at
me for a moment, for my face was frostbitten and covered
with scabs, and my beard and hood coated with frost and
rime, and I was not very presentable. They soon lielped ne
to my feet, however, and seeing that I was lame, assisted mc
through the different doors, conducting me to the interior,
and seated me beyond the fireplace, in the berth usually
assigned to guests of the house. They then began to re-
move my wrappings and mittens, and the deerskin coolytang

MELVILLE S NARRATIVE CONTINUED.

221

and trousers, which are always put outside to prevent their
destruction by the heat. They then prepared to remove my
moccasins in the same way, I having been suppHed with new
ones at Bulun, which came up above the knees and were se-
cured at the waist. They rolled down the tops to tiie knees,
but on proceeding to remove the boots they noticed that the
operation was causing me pain, and upon examining my limbs
found tiiat as they stripped the boots down they removed the
skin from my legs, it having been frozen and matted to their
inside. Upon this discovery they gave a cry of horror, and
set about to relieve me, cutting the seams at the sides. The
boots being removed, they applied a coating of goose grease
to my limbs, but they had no bandages, not having muslin or
any other material of that sort.

" The house was filled by this time with the people of the
village, who had crowded in to see the stranger. Some per-
son had put the kettle on, I provided tea and sugar, and they
soon had some fish boiling. Marvellous were the stories that
the two drivers were retailing to their hearers — about my
persisting in coming after they had assured me that we had
nothing to eat, and that we would all die; how I had beaten
tlieni with the stick, and finally of my shooting at them, and
to cap the climax, about my threatening to eat the dogs and
Yakuts. This latter incident brought on an immense amount
of crossing among the Christian natives. They soon learned
the story of the arrival at Bulun of Noros and Nindemann
from DeLong's party, and of the rescue of my party at Jama-
violock, and that I now was on a search for ten dead men.
They appeared to descant on this fact, and thought I must be
crazy, as I had no means of paying them, and yet threatened
to shoot and eat them, and it seemed to them to be the
craziest thing of all that I should hunt for dead men now when
they could be found easily a few months later. I gathered
this readily from my knowledge of the Yakut tongue and
from the astonishment of the natives.

"Presendy I heard them speaking of a 'boomarda,* or
paper, and that they had seen or heard of some of the party
for whom I was searching. At this time a superb-looking
Yakut advanced bowing, and, with his cap in his hand, pre-
sented me with a paper, which I opened and found to contain
a record left by DeLong in ore of the huts on the line of his
march along the Lena river. Nindemann had told me of his

222

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

having left these records in as many different huts before
Errickson died, and that in tiie hut in which Errickson expired
was a gun and ammunition and another record, and that an
epitaph-board placed over the door recorded the death of
Errickson, I inquired of the native where this paper had
been found, and learned that it had been picked up in a hut
at Ballock, on the east bank of the liver, fifty-five versts due
east of the village in which I was located. This man, wiio
was the brightest and most intelligent Yakut I saw while in
Siberia, was named Lakinte Shamula, and he owned many-
huts and traps, seeming to be one of the leading men in that
country or section. After some time, an old woman, after
rummaging about in the pocket of her coolytang, fished out a
paper which had been found by her brat, or son — an exces-
sively bashful youth. Upon questioning him, he told me that
he had found it in a hut called Osucktock, seventy or seventy-
five versts to the east and south. I then learned that there
was another paper in an adjoining village, which they would
get in the morning, which, along with the gun, was in the
hands of the starosta of the village. After a meal of fish and
tea, the house setded for the night. That house was sixteen
by twenty-two feet, and forty adult persons slept in it that
night.

"The next morning it was storming furiously, but I found
that the starosta had sent after the paper and gun, and toward
eleven o'clock they were brought in to me, accompanied by a
Russian exile, who came as an interpreter, supposing that
I might be able to converse more freely in Russian than in
Yakut. We failed, however, as I did better with the Yakut,
Tongese, and Russian I had learned at Jamaviolock. The
third paper proved to be the record left by DeLong at the
junction of the main branch of the Lena leading '^o the north
and a branch running into the northeast called ' Obibuit
Yasia,' and in a hut called 'Usterda,' about ninety versts
southeast from the villaQfe.

" Here, indeed, was information for me," continued Mr. Mel-
ville. " I had the three records that had been placed in regular
sequence by DeLong, and had been found by the natives and
carried to ' Orseva,' or I^^jrth Bulun, where I then was. Tiie
record left at the first station stated that DeLong had landed
a few days before on the north coast of the Delta ; it related
the circumstances of the loss of the Jeannette, and stated that

MELVILLE S NARRATIVE CONTINUED.

223

he had cached the goods, log, chronometer and other boat
(Tear on the northern shore of the Arctic Ocean, marking the
spot by a tall flag-staff. The paper also stated that the boat
having been abandoned i^4 miles from the shore, the party
had proceeded to the hut on foot; that they were about to
proceed to the south ; that they were all well with the excep-
tion of Errickson, who was suffering from frost-bite ; that they
had three or four days' provision, and they had seen several
reindeers, and had no fears for the future. DeLong also
spoke of the separation of the boats on the 1 2th of September,
stating that he had seen nothing of the second cutter or whale
boat since that time. The second record left at Osucktock
stated that the men had killed two deers and had rested there
for a time, but that in the morning the party would proceed
to the south. The third paper, found at Usterda, stated that
they were obliged to camp down for three or four days, owing
to the impossibility of crossing the river; that Errickson was
suffering from frozen feet, the Doctor having been obliged to
cut off his toes, and that it had become necessary to haul
Errickson on a sled ; that they had waited for the ice to form
on the river to enable them to cross, but that on this day they
would cross and would follow the west bank to the south end
in hopes of meeting a settlement.

"This was definite information for me, and as I had lost the
trail coming from the south it seemed plain for me to follow
it up from the north to the south, as directed by DeLong's
records. While at North Bulun I made up my mind that,
owing to the weather DeLong had experienced, the number
of days Noros and Nindemann had left them with no food,
they having been subsisting on seal-oil, glycerine, and alcohol,
the party were all dead ; or that if they were in the hands of
natives they were as well off as I was. I decided to go to
Ballock, the northernmost hut at which the first record was
found; from there to proceed to the shores of the Arctic
Ocean, not more than fifteen or twenty-five miles distant, and
to gather up all the books and papers, and other articles be-
longing to the expedition ; to retrace my steps to Ballock,
Osucktock, and Usterda, cross to the west bank on DeLong's
track, and to follow the west bank to the south, as directed by
DeLong, and as I had been told by the two seamen. Being
unable to wear moccasins, I had the women make me sort of
'mittens' for the feet and legs. I made the natives under-

224

ARCTIC LXPLORATIONS.

, r

i.y'i

stand that I miint have ncv/ teams and a supply of fish foi
men and doL:s for ten days. Wassilli's team havin<^ been
used up, I released hiin to return to Jamavialock, hc.'uvr 3,5.
sured by the starosta that he would supply me for my journey.
Tiicn, to make sure that I would not be deceived, I made
them throw out from the storehouse a day's supply of fish
for men and doq^s. I then returned to the hut to put on my
clodiino- for the journey, and when I came out the sleds were
packed and lashed ready for the start.

" The wind abated, and we made the run from North Bulun
to Ballock in a few hours, arriving there at evening-. VVc
found the hut where the natives had discovered the record.
and saw the evidence of DeLong's party having- been there.
We slept at Hallock that night, and the next morning, after I
liad told the natives where I wanted to go, we started alonf;
the east bank of the Lena river proper until we came to the
ocean. The natives were much interested, and commented
upon the ' boos-barrow,* or sea-ice. After turning to the
eastward and going about two hours, wc soon sighted the
pole arising from the bank, as described i DeLong's record.
We broke open the cache, in which I fou he log, chronom-
eter, navigation-box, sextant, marine glaabes, and a lot of
worthless equipment which had been cast out of the boat,
but whicli was cached in order to cover up tlje books and in-
struments. I then loaded the sleds with everything on the
ground, carrying it away in order not to deceive any person
who might make a further search for the second cutter. We
traversed the shore for a mile or more but found no signs of
the first cutter. The ice had piled up on the beach until it
came wit lin a few feet of the cache, endangering its safety.
That night we returned to Ballock. I had had three natives
with me — lomat Constantine Mokloploff, Lakinte Shamula,
and Kafeem Keerik, a son of the starosta of the village of
North Bulun. The natives were wild with excitement at
seeing so much treasure in the way of old guns, clothing,
pots and pans, and other worthless material left behind by
DeLong. After a supper of boiled fish we turned in for the
night.

"The next morning," continued the narrator, "I prepared
to continue our journey from Ballock to Osucktock, when the
natives informed me that we could not go. It was the old
story about not having enough provisions. I was on the

MKLVII.LKS NAUUATIVK CON lINli|-.l>.

225

<loor side of tlu: hut, and scizinij a stick hcijan to Ix^labor the
natives, and a scene similar to that at Mot Vay was enacted.
Tiic natives crawled over me and escaped from tiie hut, but I
lirt'd a shot, brinj^ins^ them to. ^ Lakinte was very much exas-
perated at this treatment, appearinj^ to be diff(;re!it from all
the other Yakuts I had met, beint^ a superior kind of a man,
and not lyinp', after the manner of the simpler natives. All
the Yakuts will lie, either for amusement or to please any
stranger who may question them, and if they are found to
have committed an offence they will attempt to lie out of it as
boldly as though their hearers knew no better. After he had
returned Lakinte explained to mc that the reason why there
were no provisions was that when I went into the hut, at
North Bulun, to put on my clothing for the journey, the na-
tives had thrown the fish I had laid out back into the store-
house. This was because there had been a famine in that
section, and ninety dogs had died. I was also told that when
I had taken the fish nothing remained for the women, and
that all would have starved, as there were no men to fish. I,
therefore, had to return to North Bulun. We loaded the
sleds and started off in a tearing gale, which was fortunately
behind us, and arrived there after nightfall.

" I had everything brought into the inner apartment, so that
I could keep a supervision over it. Among the other things
were several gallons of alcohol in a keg. The natives soon
found out that it was there, and had gathered with the inten-
tion to have a spree with it. It required the utmost deter-
mination to prevent them using it, whether I would or not,
and it was only after I had started to pour it into the ash-
heap that they desisted from the attempt. They entreated
me to give them just a small quantity, but I feared that it
mifjht have made them unmanaoeable, and that it would be
impossible to move on. I therefore put the keg behind my
berth and we all went to sleep.

"The next morning it was storming furiously. I had sent
for the dogs and drivers to carry me and the records to Bulun,
going by way of the River Lena, with the intention to keep
the west bank. I discarded all the worthless stuff, camp
equipage, etc., distributing it among the natives and telling
them to destroy whatever they could not use. This was to
prevent the mi-ileading of any further search for the Chip
party. Lakinte Shamula refused to go with me to Bulun, but

«5

(■ ' ^1:

11 '

. I'

i-r

226

AKcriC EXPLORATIONS.

selected two well-known dos^-drivers, l^^ide Akeen and Stare
Nlcholai. The former had the reputation of having been cast
away on the Delta, and of liaving made the march in nine
days, in mid-winter and without food, to Bulun. Fade was a

A COSSACK.

fine, tall, stalwart fellow, much lontrer than the average Yakut,
but with a peculiar, blue, frozen countenance, square jaw and
mouth, huge teeth and a turned-up nose. This latter charac-
teristic was so strikinof, and because of the nearness of his

!;?'■«''

Mi:i,VILI,E S NARRATIVE CONTINUED.

227

name to 'Paddy,' I at once fell to calling him by that

nanvi.
"Paddy was the best driver, and although it was blowing a

westerly gale, and there was much hesitation on the part of
Constantine Makloploff and Stare Nicholai in making the
start, when I asked Paddy if he would go, he at once put on
his hood and mittens and was ready. The [)rotests of die
others were now useless. I had three teams, two of eleven
each, with all the records, and materials, and the supplies,
under the care of Nicholai and seven dogs. After midnight
we arrived at Osucktock. The hut was partlv filled with
snow, but we found evidences of the party having been there
ia the shape of broken phials and other articles. By this time
it seemed as if the weather had set in to blow continually,
with a driving snow, which came in all directions, owing to
the cTorges along the river banks. We had to follow the bed
of the river, where the wind swept down as through a funnel.
We travelled during the day, and at one o'clock in the after-
noon irot to Usterda. This was the hut where UeLonij en-
camped for several days waiting for the freezing over of the
river, and where he had left a record. It was almost unten-
antable, and but a mile to the south, on the south bank of the
Obibutyasa river, I descried another hut known as Mcsja, and
we went there, it being a better camping-place.

"We returned the next morning to Usterda, in order that
1 midit follow DeLong's tracks on the west bank of the river.
I found the tracks of the sled on which they had hauled poor
Errickson, and several places where the broken ice indicated
that the people had fallen through where the ice was young.
The sled had turned to the south, but as the snow had com-
menced to fill the banks the tracks were covered, the snow at
this time filling the b-.nks with a natural slope from their full
height to the river's bed. I continued to the south, informing
the natives that about twenty versts to the south of where I
had crossed I ought to find a ' Malinka stare balagan ' — a
little old hut, in which Errickson had died. This I had learned
from the two seamen. The natives replied that there was
such a liut, and after laboring on we came up with a hut ans-
wering the description as to distance, but on reaching it we
found nothing to indicate that the party had ever been there.
1 was now off the track, although I had followed the implicit
instructions of DeLong's record, which coincided with what

' ^ni

^^^^H

|i!

':'!'i

;;?:1fi! i

'..■ r r

228

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

I had learned from the seamen. I then inquired whether
there was not another liut in the neighborhood, and they said
there was one twenty versts farther on, but it was on the east
bank of the river. Supposing that from the toils and tribula-
tions which they had gone through the seamen might have
forgotten, I pushed on for this second hut, arriving towards
midnight; but after a thorough search no evidence of De-
Long was found.

" 1 now made up my mind," said Mr. Melville, " that I was
off the trail, and I was told that there were no other huts ex-
cepting at long distances east and west. The natives assured
me that this was the Oshee Lena, and that it was the main
branch, and as our provisions had given out after our first
stoppage at Mesja it became necessary to push on as ^apidly
as possible, as I had three hundred versts to go before I could
get to a place of safety. The natives said the nearest place
was a hut called Sisteransk, and I directed them to push on.
The dogs were barely able to move, the natives working in
the harness alongside of the dogs, and the snow was so deep
it was hard to tell if we were on the river bed or on the banks.
Finally the dogs were so exhausted that they laid down in the
snow, and could only be made to proceed by beating and
dragging them. The storm was so fierce that the dogs and
men could not face it, the former, like the men, putting their
heads down and receiving the blast upon their shoulders, and
if the drivers were not careful the teams would soon be on
the back track. Eventually we reached Sisteransk, where we
found a lot of fish heads strung on reeds, and hung up for
fox-bait. This, with the offal from the ash-heap, and some
shreds of reindeer tendon, which we gathered up, we made
into soup. The storm in the meantime was howling without,
and the dogs being staked fast had gone to sleep in the snow.
The finding c^ this food here was evidence that DeLong's
party did not come this way, as it would have been very ac-
ceptable to them."

Chief-Engineer Melville's description of his search for De-
Long and his party alone would fill a volume. His ind-
dental allusions to the power of the ice and the perils of the
polar seas are graphic. We read of crowding and tumbling
floes, across which seams run and rattle with the noise of
thunder, while blocks of ice fifty feet high are puffed up or
tossed across the surface, and of the chaos of millions of tons

MELVILLE S NARRATIVE CONTINUED.

239

vhether
ley said
:he east
tribula-
lit have
towards
of De-
it I "jvas
huts ex-
assured
he main
our first
3 .apidly
e 1 could
est place
push on.
)rking in
> so deep
le banks,
yvn in the
ting and
ogs and
ng their
ers, and
»n be on
here we
g up for
nd some
ve made
without,
he snow.
)eLong's
very ac-

for De-
lis inci-
lis of the
Jumbling
loise of
Id up or
of tons

heaped against the rocky islands, defying the progress of
even the unhampered pedestrian. Mr. Melville blurs the ro-
mantic picture of the Esquimaux calmly sitting in shoe-shaped
sleds, with the lashes of their long whips trailing gracefully
behind, while the dogs dash in full cry and perfect unison
across smooth expanses of snow and ice, and substitutes in
its place a scene as full of action, if not of progress : dogs
yelling, barking, snapping, and fighting, the leaders in the rear
and the wheelers in the middle, all as hopelessly tangled up
as a basketful of eels. Such tangles the Yakuts dissolve by
merciless poundings with heavy iron-tipped staves until the
poor brutes become more tractable, and scud along the hard
snow at a six-mile gait. After an hour's run the team is re-
leased and allowed to roll in the snow and lick the paws that
so soon become sore with travc^l. Curiously enough the Si-
berian dog returns promptly to harness when called.

Life among the Yakuts must be like a nightmare. Forty
per cent, are blind and sixty per cent, partially so, or one-
eyed, and syphilitic disease prevails to an awful extent.
Melville made his first journeys with little other sustenance
than the heads and offal of fish that could be found in aban-
doned huts, rotten deer bones, tendons, and rawhide. One
of his guides set out on a journey of some two hundred miles
with a team of tired dogs and no provisions but a tiny piece
chipped from a block of tea. Of the capacity of the Yakut
stomach we have a graphic if not reproducible account: the
Siberian Gargantua swallowing nearly nineteen pounds of
melted butter at two long drinks. Litde as the natives have
they are cheated. The Russian tax-gatherer keeps them in
ienorance of the advance in the value; of furs durinqf the last
generation, and collecting in kind pays a small portion of the
proceeds in cash into the treasury, and steals the rest, while
gamblers infest the villages systematically, buy whatever the
natives have to sell, and cheat them out of the money. Never-
theless these poor wretches supported the shipwrecked crew,
and showed no little capacity for fidelity and obedience ; there
is a picture of a frolicsome young bride's love-making to her
bashful husband, which has a touch of the idyl about it, and
Melville found near the Pole, as Mungo Park at the Equator,
that the woman's heart always has a fount of sympathy for
the sufferino: and the strancrer.

Travelling by deer-sled, though rapid work — some of Mr.

'»
m

u..

hi , ,

>:,'■'. ■'!'

'?^'||:'

230

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

1 ■;

Melville's postinq- was done at almost railroad speed, as 140
versts in thirteen hours, 80 in six and a quarter hours, and
900 versts (the verst is two-thirds of a mile) in five days and
eighteen hours — is not always pleasant, either to traveller or
animal. The wilds are pathless ; occasionally the driver has
the excitement of pursuit by a dog-team ravenous for venison-
the sleds overturn on the slightest provocation. The deer
are kept to their work by being punched in the haunches
with a pole. " When driven at the top of their speed they
labor painfully along, with heads thrust forward, nostrils dis-
tended, sides working at every leap, like a great pair of
blacksmith's bellows, and the noi-i(i of their breathing like the
exhaust of ? locomotive. Maintaining their fearful exertions
for about half an hour, they suddenly swerve among the trees,
or up a steep bank, to avoid their tormentor, or, droppintr
down in their tracks, bury their heads with open mouths in
the snow, and eat voraciously of the cooling dust." The cat-
tle are housed, during the winter months, under the same
roof and frequently in the same apartments with their own-
ers ; the horses are not stabled, even in the severest weather,
but dig through the snow for grass, or crop twigs and
branches of trees.

Concerning the Siberian exiles, Mr. Melville tells a good
deal. One, whom he met repeatedly, was a law-student who
had been arrested for participation in a students' street row.
After three examinations the courts could find nothing against
him, nevertheless he was packed off to the frozen north for
life on an "administrative order," which said: "We can prove
nothing aerainst this man; but he is a student of law, and no
doubt very dangerous." This exile's companions, whose ages
ranged from eighteen to twenty-seven, were all professional
men and confirmed Nihilists, "though several said they had
not been so until after their banishment." Each was allowed
^12.50 a month with which to feed, clothe, and house himself,
and procure fuel and service; this where ryemeal costs
nearly eight cents a pound and sugar fifty. Some of the
exiles with wealthy friends receive allowances from them, but
these must not exceed $150 at one payment, and mails are
very irregular — say twice a year, with packages at odd inter-
vals through travelling merchants. No exile may send or
receive a sealed packet. The natives are held accountable,
under penalty of imprisonment, for any escapes.

lO^

lint:!:::,
illlll

mm\w

IB i@ 1

'vJ^/iN'il

II <

(230

t'lll

■ :

i- ili

i I-:

1 ■'

i ■ 'i

1 W^

1,; •'•

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232

ARCTIC f:XPLORATIONS.

One of the exiles met by Melville had been a practising
physician in the Crimea ; he had neitiier committed a crime
nor belonged to a society ; he might, however, have offended
a rival by his marriage. He had been treating the child of
the local police-master, but she was convalescent when, one
morning, he was sent for by that official — sent, for with sidi
urgency that he was not allowed to finish his breakfast or take
an overcoat. On reaching the official's residence he was told
that he was a prisoner on *' administrative order," and, widi-
out being permitted to bid farewell to his young wife, or to
obtain clothing or money, he was packed off to Siberia within
twelve hours. His wife followed him to Irkutsk, intending to
join him in exile, but he was moved on to Verkeransk, 2,000
miles distant, just before her arrival ; she went mad, and died
in despair at this ending of her 4,000-mile journey, and he,
after an attempt at suicide, settled down in his hopelessness
to practise his profession — without fee, since no exile is al-
lowed to gain money for himself. He was not a Nihilist;
indeed, was in indifferent repute with his companions because
of his moderation in politics. There is some satisfaction in
reflecting that the Nihilists utilize their reputation for blood-
thirstiness and desperation in order to worry the officials
and to make the traders sell them goods at a discount. One
exile, a poet and scholar, whose translation of the Bible was
appropriated by the bishop of the diocese, attempted an escape
by securing a "double" — a Cossack resembling him closely,
and trained and educated till the deception could scarcely be
discovered, being substituted for him, but his clever plan mis-
carried, and he was sent into a severer captivity. The only
contented exiles are the "Scaups" (skoptzoi), who mudiate
themselves so that they can neither beget nor nurse children.
They are teetotalers and vegetarians, live in. communities un-
der police surveillance, and farm extensively. Like the Shak-
ers, they are prosperous and honest ; they die well-to-do, but,
somehow, manage to dispose of their property so that it
escapes confiscation to the State.

Chief-Encrineer Melville describes his meeting with Ser-
geant Elison at the rescue of Greely's party. Elison had lost
both hands and both feet and his nose by frostbite, "yet he
seemed cheerful and bright, and thrust out one of his arm-
stumps, which I shook in lieu of a hand. He said : ' So you

■! ■ , t

MELVILLE S NARRATIVE CONTINUED.

233

are one of the officers from the Jeannette, and poor DeLong^
is dead ! You must have had a terrible time!* Here was
sympathy, sure enough. A man with nose, feet, and hands
frozen off, who for months had been helplessly stretched upon
his back, enduring every agony and horror but death itself,
could find room in his bleeding heart to pity the past suffer-
inijs of others. A noble nature, indeed ! "

"Melville concludes with "A Method for Reaching the Pole."
The ice-barrier he regards as impenetrable to vessels, and he
looks to find above 85° an immovable ice-cap, not the chaotic
" palaeocrystlc sea" of Nares and Markham, but a clear, un-
broken surface, subject, of course, to fissures and shrinkage
cracks. He would attack the pole by way of F.anz Josef
Land, establishing depots at selected posts, each in charge
of a small party provisioned for four years, and instructed to
retreat at the end of three, leaving the remainder of th^ir
boats and supplies for the " forlorn hope " of some ten men,
who will make the " dash for the pole " on fc >t. " I propose
to prove this theory of reaching the North ^ole by going
there myself!"

"Beautiful river!" say the people of Bucharest of their
Dimbovitza ; " whoso hath once drunk of thy waters shall
always thirst for them wherever he go ! " What is the
secret of the fatal fascination which Africa and the Arctic
region have for those who have once tasted of the cup of ad-
venture and exploration ?

!*'l?

,;J.:i

■M

I?!''i: "11

if-

CHAPTER XVI.

NARRATIVE OF LIEUTENANT DANENHOWER.

The Jeannelte Expedition, as Described by Lieutenant Danenhower — Leaving San Fran.
Cisco — East Cape Rounded — Herald Island — Wrangell Land — Frozen in — Cold Weather
— 58 degrees Fahrenheit — Aurora Borealis — Sufficient Game — Ice Bears Killed— Mel-
ville's Canal — ^Jeannette Island and Henrietta Island.

"The Jeannette left San Francisco on the 8th of July, 1879,
with a full outfit for three years, with five commissioned offi-
cers of the navy, two civil scientists, and twenty-four of the
ship's company. We arrived at Ounalaska on the 3d of Au-
gust, after a long passage caused by head winds and the ves-
sel being laden below her proper bearings. The Jeannette
was perfectly seaworthy, having been thoroughly put in order
at Mare Island before starting. After coaling ship at Oun-
alaska we proceeded to St. Michael's, Alaska, to meet our
supply schooner, the Fanny A. Hyde. There we filled up
with stores, got fur clothing, purchased forty dogs and en-
gaged two American Indians — Anequin and Alexei — as hun-
ters and dog-drivers, thus completing our complement of
thirty-three. On the 25th of August we crossed BehringG
Sea, in a very heavy gale, and though the ship was loaded
very deeply she behaved admirably.

" We visited St. Lawrence Bay in order to take in coal and
the remaining supplies from the schooner, as well as to con-
verse with the native Chukches and to sret news of Nordens-
kjold. We met about twenty natives, one of whom had
learned a little English from American traders, and he told
us that a steamer had passed south the previous June. The
natives were ragged and dirty, and had no food to dispose of.
We shot some wild fowl, and then we saw remains of vessels
burned by the Shenandoah. Up the St. Lawrence Bay we
found magnificent scenery. We sent off our last mail by the
supply schooner, and on the 27th of August, 7 p. m., we
started north. Next day we passed through Behring's Strait
We rounded East Cape about three of the afternoon of the

(234)

NARRATIVE OF LIEUTENANT DANENIIOWER.

235

ig San Fran.
Zolcl Wer.thcr
Killed— Mel-

uly, 1879,
Dned offi-
ur of the
3d of Au-
d the ves-
jeannette
It in order
p at Oiin-
meet our

filled up

and en-
1 — as hun-

ment of
iBehring's

,s loaded

coal and
IS to con-
JNordens-
Ihom had
he told
Ine. The
lispose of.
|)f vessels
Bay we
lil by the
|p. M., we
r's Strait
)n of the

28th ; it was then cloudy, no observations, running by dead
reckoning. The East Cape loomed very bold and bluff. We
could not see the Diomedes in the straits.

"On the 29th I saw, from the crow's-nest, huts on the
beach. We stood in and found a summer settlement. Cap-
tain DeLong- apd a party of officers started ashore in the
whaleboat, but could not land owing to the surf breaking on
icevvard. Seeing the difficulty, the natives launched a bicia-
rah, 01* large skin-boat, very skilfully, and came off to the
ship, bringing their chief with them. We had a long inter-
view with them in the cabin, but as neither party could under-
stand the other the results of the convcTsation were not great.
Ti:ey made us understand, however, by bending the elbow
and saying 'Schnapps' what they wanted, but the captain
refused to listen to their request. Lieutenant Chipp then
went ashore and succeeded in landing about midnight, and
from an old woman from King's Island who could talk with
our Indians, we learned that Nordenskjold with the Vega had
wintered to the north of them, and had passed east to Behr-
ing's Strait in the month of June. The next day we cruised
along the coast to the westward. Met two other parties of
natives, who came alongside, but took a look at us only.

"On Sunday, August 31st, we fell in with some drift-ice,
and at daylight discovered a few huts on the beach. The
drift-ice extended about four miles off shore. Lieutenant
Chipp, Ice-Pilot Dunbar and I, went ashore in the whaleboat
to interview the natives. After a two hours' pull through the
drifipack, and seeing many seals, we reached the beach and
found several carcasses of recently slain walrus. The natives
seemed rather shy, and we had to look them up in their skin
tents. There we found c\ sailor's trypot, and a cask marked
'Centennial brand of whiskey,' — conclusive proof that the
people were in occasional communication with American
traders.

"We met an intelligent young Chukche, who offered to show
us the spot where the Vega had wintered. We took a tramp
of several hours to the westward, and saw a bay about fifteen
miles wide between the headlands, and there the natives told
us the Vega had passed the winter. We found nothing there
of any consequence. In the tents, however, we found tin
cans marked * Stockholm,' scraps of paper with soundings
marked in Swedish, and some interesting pictures of Stock-

'ii:!!'!

:l I

, *■

:)k

>iP

li, I

i !

236

ARCTIC r.X PI, ORATIONS.

holm professional boautios. The natives indicated to us |^y
siijns that the steamer had passed safely out to the (Mst.
After purchasinLT some of the pictures and tin cans wv. re-
turned to the ship.

"During- my absence the captain had got the sun at nnnn,
and the latitjde placed us about fifteen miles inland. Our
astronomical positions were not reliable, owinor to the sUiu;
of the weather, but from them and the dead reckonin^^ \v(,'
felt assured that the coast is not correctly charteil. TIk.
general appearance of the coast was fresh and pleasing. Off
what we supposed to be Cape Serdze Kamen we saw a larce
heart-shaped rock, of which Mr. Collins made an elahonitc
sketch. There were several sugar-loaf mountains in siolu.

"Our walk to the Vega's winter quarters was over a
mossy tundra; no signs of deer; the vegetation withcn-ti.
The natives were hospitable, and one old Chukche clnini-
pressed us to eat a dish of walrus blood, but we felt com-
pelled to refuse the offtn*. The natives were stalwart and
handsome ; they lived in skin tents and were cxceediiinjy
dirty. They were well clad, and the chief wore a red calico
gown as the distinguishing mark of his dignity. This was
the last time most of us touched land for a period of mure
than two years.

"About 4 r. M., August 31st, we stood to the northwest,
shaping our course to the southeast cape of Wrangell Land,
and then we felt that our Arctic cruise had actually com-
menced. We met considerable drift-ice ; the weatlicr was
stormy and misty. About sunrise, September ist, we dis-
cerned an island which was taken to be Kolyutschin, In
Kolyutschin Bay. Next day we me., pack-ice in floes of
moderate size, turned to the northward and northeastward,
and cruised along the Siberian pack, entering leads at times
to examine them.

"On the afternoon of September 4th a whaling bark bore
down to us ; we stopped engines and awaited her approach,
but the weather became misty and she did not speak us.
We had an Arctic mail on board at the time, and were disap-
pointed at not being able to send letters home. We ran
in several times and made fast to floe-pieces, to await clear
weather. That afternoon, about four, we saw an immense
tree, with its roots, drifting by. Ice-Pilot Dunbar, seeing it,
said that in 1865, when the Shenandoah destroy(\i the

I'a^nfl

NARUATIVK Ol" LIEUTENANT DANENIIOWHR.

= 37

whalers, lie was at St. Lawroiicc Hay; ami wlicn, a (v.w
months later, he landed on Herald Island, he was <;reatly
surprised to see masts and portions of tiie destroyed vessels
tlriitini* in that vicinity, Tiiis made me look out ibr a norlh-
\vest drift. Then Merald Island loomed up in the clouds.

"On the 6th of Sept(;mber the captain judtjed that we had
'.eached the lead between the Siberian and North American
i)acks, and that this was a good place to (;nter. He took
charije from the crow's-nest, and we entered the pack. Wc
met with the youn<i^ ice, and forced our way thronj;h it by
ramming. This shook the ship very badly, but did not do
her any damage ; indeed, the ship stood the concussions
handsomely. But at 4 p. m. we could proceed no farther. We
banked fires, secured the vessel with ice-anchors, and re-
mained. That night was exceedingly cold. The ship was
frozen in. At this time the ice was in pieces ranging from
ten square yards to several acres in area, with small water-
courses like veins running between them, but now quite
frozen over. It remained quiet for a number of days, and we
found ourselves in the middle of a large accumulation of
lloes about four miles across. We were then in about twenty
fathoms of water, and had Herald Island in sight to the south-
ward and westward, twenty-one miles distant by triangulation
on a base line of 1,100 yards.

"About the 15th of September First Lieutenant Chipp, Ice-
Pilot Dunbar, Engineer Melville, and the Indian, Alexei,
started with a dog-sledge for Herald Island. They got
within six miles of the beach, when they found open water
before them, and were compelled to return. We lound the
ship drifting with the ice, and with so uncertain a base the
captain would not send other persons to the island with
boats. The general appearance of the ice at this time was
uniform, with here and there almost snowless hummocks
appearing above the surface, between which were pools
whereon the men could skate. The deflorescence of salt was
like velvet under the feet. From day to day we saw a loom-
ing of land to the southwest, and sometimes in the clouds.
We soon found that the ice always took up the drift with the
wind.

"The ship at this time began to heel to starboard under the
pressure, and inclined about twelve degrees. We unsliipped
the rudder, got up mast-head tackles on the port side, with

'i r'>

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238

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

lower blocks hooked to heavy ice-anchors aboui a luindrcd
and titty feet distant, and set them taut in onler to keep tlic
ship iipri^rht. The propeller v.as not triced up, hut was
turned so that the blades would be up and down tii(.' stern-
post ; the engines were tallowed, but not takcMi apart. When
the ship commenced to hei;l, the local deviation of the com
pass increased in the ratio of one* and a half dejrrees duration
to one de<;ree of list. This was owini^ to the vast iiriionni
of iron-work, and especially the canned ooods, which had to
be stow(;d in the after-hold and on the quarter-deck. All onr
compass observations had of course to be made on the ice
well cU.'ar of the ship. At this time and later on we noticed
that the turnins^ motion of the tloe or change in azimuth of
the ship's head was very slow ; but the (loe did have a cycloidal
motion with thc^ wind, and the resultant was in the northwest
direction.

"Our position was not an enviable one. At any moment
the vess(;l was liable to be crushed like an egg-shell aiiion<r
this enormous mass of ice, the general thickness of whicli
was from hve to six feet, though some was over twc.iuv
where the floe-pieces had overrun and cemented together
and turned topsy-turvy. Pressures were constantly felt. Wc
heard distant thundering of the heavy masses, which threw
up high ridges of young ice that looked like immense nieces
of crushed sugar.

" The month of '■ ctober was quiet. We had had no equi-
noctial gales even in September. The cold was very bitter.
Wrangell Land was in plain sight to south and west many
times, and especially on the 28th and 29th of October, when
we could see mountains and glaciers, which we identified on
many occasions. Collins took sketches of them. The ship
was drifting to and fro with the wind. Up to this time we
saw a considerable number of seals and walrus, and got two
bears. Two white whales were also seen, which were the
only ones noticed during the whole cruise. Life on board
was quiet but monotonous. We got many observations,
especially from the stars. The nights were very clear, and
suitable for artificial horizon work.

" We began to find at this time, and by later experience be-
came convinced, that Rear-Admiral John Rodgers was right
when he said that the sextant, artificial horizon, and the lead
were the most efficient and useful instruments in exploring

NAK lATivE oi- i,ii:uti:nant dankniiowkk.

239

/Vrctic waters, ami that transits an<I zenith tcloscojjos wcrt; not
useful, bccaiisti rclincd observations could not be obtained,
and were not necessary in this r(;t^ion. The cold is so <;reat
as to affect the instrument, and it is almost impossible to
keep the lens free of frost and va|)or, thus maUinj^^ the re-
fraction a very indefmite correction. Our experience in this
pack was, that the state of the atmosphere was constantly
dianging; without a moment's notice the ice would sometimes
open near the ship, and vast columns of vapor would rise
whenever the difference of temperature b(itween the air and
water was great. The surface water was oenc.'rally 29° I'^ah-
renhcit, the freezing point of salt water.

"About the 6th ot November the ice began to break up.
We had previously observed considerable agitation about the
full and change of the moon, and attributed it to tidal action.
This was observed particularly when we were between
Herald Island and Wrangell Land, and when the x^ater was
shoaled — that is, about fifteen fathoms — the ice began to
break round the ship, and a regular stream of broken masses
gradually encroached upon us. From aloft the floe that had
appeared so uniform a few weeks before was now tumbled
about, and in a state of greater confusion than an old Turkish
graveyard. Tracks began to radiate from the ship, and the
noise and vibration of distant ramming were terrific, making
even the dogs whine.

"November 3d was a calm, starlight night. I got good
star observations, with Melville marking time, at eleven r. m.
I was working them up, when a crack was heard, and we found
diat the floe had split, and that the ice on the port side had
drifted off, leaving the ship lying in a half cradle on her star-
board bilge. The water looked smooth and beautiful, and
there was no noise save that of four docjs which had drifted
off with the port ice. We had previously taken in the
observatory, and had prepared for such an accident, but on
the starboard side the steam-cutter and the men's outhouse
had been left. We got the steam-cutter aboard, but left the
outhouse standing.

"And here let me mention an interesting fact. About six-
teen months afterward, the Indian Anequin came in, in a
state of great excitement for an Indian generally so stolid,
and reported, ' Me found two-man house ! ' He described
it as a house large enough for two men, and when asked if

■V

■'?'«

I 4

240

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

he had been inside said, ' No, me plenty 'fraid ! " Judge of
our surprise. Lieutenant Cliipp immediately started with
the Indian and others, and found the house at a distance of
about three miles to the southeast. It proved to be tiie lost
outhouse, thus shovang that the relative positions of the pieces
in the vicinity were comparative unchanged.

"The next morning the half cradle on which the port side
had rested could be seen about a thousand yards distant,
and this immense lead was open, but of very limited Icnoth.
The appearance of the ice can be likened to an immense
cake as it comes from the oven, broken and cracked on the
surface.

"A few mornings later the drift ice came down upon us
under the starboard bow, and wedged the ship off her cradle,
and she went adrift in the gale. This was about eight a. m.
She drifted all day until seven p. m., when she brought up on
some young ice, and was frozen in solid again. It was dark,
in the lonqr nitrht, and there was no chance of workino- the
pack had it been good judgment to do so. We reckoned
that slv_ had drifted at least forty miles, with the ice in her
immediate vicinity.

'• Previous to this time the ship had stood the pressure in
the most remarkable manner. On one occasion I stood on the
deck-house above a sharp tongue of ice that pressed the port
side just abaft, the fore chains and in the wake of the im-
mense truss uiat had been strengthened uy the urgent advice
of Engineer-in-chief William H. Shock, on Mare Island.
The fate of the Jeannette was then delicately balanced, and
when I oaw the immense tongue break and harmlessly under-
run the ship, I gave heartfelt thanks to Shock's good judg-
ment. She would groan from stem to stern ; the cabin
doors were often jammed so that we could not get out in
case of emero-encv, and the heaw truss was embedded three-
quarters of an inch into the ceiling. The safety of the ship
at that time was due entirely to the truss. The deck plank-
ing would start from the beams, showing the unpainted wood
for more than half an inch. This, together with the sharp
cracking of the ship's fastenings, like the report of a distant
charge of rifles, would wake us at night. Each man kept
his knapsack by him ready for an instant movC; and prepara-
tions were made for leaving the ship with sleds and boats if
necessary.

'M'.

[3ge of
d with
mce of
the lost
I pieces

Drt side
distant,
length,
iimense
i on the

ipon us
r cradle,

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IS dark,
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eckoned
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ssure in

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he port
the im-
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Island.
:cd, and
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out in
Id three-
]he ship
plank-
Id wood
sharp
distant
m kept
)repara-
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242

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

" Several gales, the heaviest being about fifty miles an hour,
occurred in the fall of 1879. The long night commenced
about the loth of November, and lasted till the 25th of Jan
uary, 1880. On November ist the winter routine comnn^nced.
At seven, call all hands and start fires in the galleys ; at nine,
breakfast; from eleven to one, guns given to all hands to
hunt and for exercise on the ice; at three p. m., dinner; then
galley fires put out to save coal ; between seven and eiaht,
tea, made from the Baxter boiler, which was used constandy
to condense water, we having found that the floe ice was too
salt for use, and the doctor insisted on using condensed
water. This boiler was originally intended for the electric
light, but it was found that we could not afford to run the
light, so we used the coal in condensing water. Twenty-five
pounds of coal per day was allowed for heating the cabin,
twenty-five pounds for the forecastle, and ninety pounds for
ship's galley for cooking purposes.

" We lived on canned goods, with bear and seal twice a
week, pork-and-beans and salt beef once a week ; no rum or
spirits, except on festive occasions, two or three times a year.
The discipline of the ship was excellent, and during the whole
twenty-one months in the pack there was but one punishment
given, and that was for profanity. The crew were well
quartered in berths, and were comparatively happy ; had
navigation class and theatricals. The health of all was ex-
cellent, and there was a special medical examination the first
of every month.

"Things went on in this fashion until the middle of Jan-
uary, when there were tremendous pressures, and the floes
actually backed up into mounds under the strain, the ice
being very tough and elastic. The heaviest strain came in
the stem of the ship, in a longitudinal direction. There was
also a heavy lateral strain, especially under the starboard
main chains. About nine o'clock one morning a man went
down into the fire-room on duty and found the floor-plates
covered with water ; he immediately reported the fact, and
all pumps were started. The temperature was below 42
degrees Fahrenheit (the freezing point of mercury). Mr.
Melville had great difficulty in getting up steam and starting
the donkey pumps, but succeeded admirably, the men work-
ing with their feet and legs in ice-water, and everything
frozen and freezinsf solid. It was found that the vessel leaked

NARRATIVE OF LIEUTENANT DANENHOWER.

243

badly in the bows, and we supposed that the hooding of the
planks had been started at the stem, and it was not until the
last day, June 12th, 1881, that we discovered that the forefoot
had been twisted to starboard.

"The carpenter (Sweetman), with Nindemann, worked day
and night, and (under the direction of Lieutenant Chipp)
built a bulkhead forward of the foremast, which partially con-
fined the water. Melville rigged an economical pump with
the Baxter boiler, and the ship was pumped for nearly
ejo^hteen months. A windmill pump was also made for sum-
mer, but the winds were so light that it hardly paid. During
the last few months the leak decreased, owing to the ship
Ho., ing higher, and we had then only to pump once every
halt hour by hand. The experience of January 19th gave me
great confidence in the ship's company, as it was a very
severe test on the men. I was confined to my berth at the
time, but knew everything that was going on, and the solid
and effective work done was very gratifying.

"As well as I can remember, about fifteen barrels of flour
and some other dry provisions were damaged by this acci-
dent. Previous to this we had to throw away a large quan-
tity of canned roast-beef marked * Erie brand,' it having
proved bad. The coldest weather occurred in February,
1880, being — r8°. There were also some great and remark-
able changes of temperature in the course of the day.

"About the middle of February we were found to be about
fifty miles from the place where we had entered, and Herald
Island was si id to have been in sight during one day. Dur-
ing these five months we had drifted over an immense area,
approaching and receding from the iSoth meridian, but I do
not think we crossed it at that time. We continued to drift
in this uncertain manner. We noticed that the ship always
took up a rapid drift with southeast winds, and a slow drift
with northeast winds, owing, doubtless, to Wrangell Island
being under our lee. Southwest winds were not frequent.

"At times land was reported to the northeast, but nothing
trustworthy. Some observers were constantly seeing land at
all points of the compass, and many was the trip that the
navigator and the ice-pilot had to make to the crow's-nest in
vain. We were very much disappointed in not being able to
shift for ourselves, and up to this time we had only demon-
strated to our satisfaction that Dr. Peterman's theory in re-

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244

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

gard to Wrangell Land being a portion of Greenland was no
longer tenable, for its insularity was evident, as subsequently
proved.

" March and April, 1880, wrere passed quietly, and wc were
surprised at not having any March gales. The geese and
wild fowl that some of us expected to see on their sprino- mj.
gration, did not put in an appearance. One poor eider duck
fell exhaust d near the ship, and one of our sportsmen shot
at it, and after administering chloroform it succumbed. There
were some birds seen later in the season, moving to the west-
ward, but tney were not numerous. A great many mussel-
shells and quantities of mud were often found on the ice,
which indicated that it had been in contact with land or shoals.
Our hunters ranged far and wide, and often brought in small
pieces of wood — on one occasion a codfish head, and on an-
other some stuff that was very much like whale-blubber, all
of which had been found on the ice.

"On May 3d, fresh southeast winds began, and the ship took
up a rapid and uniform drift to the northwest. Now Mr.
Collins began to predict, and told me several times that these
winds would continue till the early part or the middle of June,
•and would be followed by. constant northwest winds for the
balance of June. This prediction was fully realized, and in
the month of June we actually drifted back over the May
track. During July and August there was scarcely any wind,
and the weather was misty and raw, it being the most un-
pleasant time of the year, the coldest weather not excepted.
The damp and fog and cold struck chill to the bones, and we
could not afford to heat the ship as we did in winter. The
ice seemed to absorb all the heat from the sun during the
melting period of the year.

"The snow disappeared from the surface of the floe about
the middle of June, and the best travelling period over the
floe was considered to be between th .' middle of June and the
middle of July. But this was a subject for constant discussion
among the savans, among whom Mr, Dunbar was the most
experienced, he having been an old traveller in the Baffin's
Bay region. A considerable number of birds, principally
phalaropes and guillemots, were shot, and very much appre-
ciated at dinner.

" The surface of the floe-pieces was now of a hard, greenish
Hue, and flinty, being covered in many places with thaw-

B1B|«^:,.;«

NARRATIVE OF LIEUTENANT DANENHOWER.

245

water. There were numerous cracks near the ship, but no
leads that went in any definite direction, and there was no
chance to move, for the ship was embedded in the ice so firmly
that a wliole cargo of explosives would have been useless.
Lieutenant Chipp, an experienced torpedo operator, made
torpedoes and all the arrangements for taking advantage of
the -first opportunity to free the ship. But the opportunity
never came. ^ •

'* Mr. Chipp was an accomplished electrician, and during the
whole time in the ice he took up the subject recommended by
the Smithsonian Institution to the Polaris expedition — namely,
observations of the disturbances of the galvanometer during
auroras. He had wires laid out over the ice, and earth-plates
in the water, and the galvanometer in the current, and ob-
tained over 2,000 observations during auroras, which he
intended to turn over to a specialist for purposes of analysis
and judgment. He always found disturbances of the needle
coincident with the most brilliant auroras. He also ran the
telephones, which, however, gave a great deal of trouble,
owing to the wires being broken by the wind and the ice
movements. Those on the ship, of course, were all right.
During my sickness he also made observations of the eclipses
of Jupiter's satellites, and got some excellent results for
chronometer errors by using an improved ship's telescope
mounted on a barrel. He afterward used the transit telescope
similarly mounted. This was the best data for our chronom-
eters, being far superior to lunar observations.

"The summer weather was very bright and pleasant for
about fifteen days in July, and when the thermometer was
above 40° Fahrenheit we called it a warm day ; but the latter
parts of July and August were particularly bad, being foggy
and raw,

" During the first year we got sufficient game for table use,
and seal-skins for clothing for the men, but this necessitated
a great deal of hunting, and there was a great scarcity of
game in this region. The seal most frequently obtained was
the species called by Lamont the 'floe rat,' and averages about
sixty pounds in weight, and thirty to forty pounds when
dressed. The men generally made up the skins into boots
and trousers. The meat was not pleasant to the taste, and it
required the strongest philosophy to enable one to eat it at
all. Walrus was scarce, the depth of water being a little too

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246

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

great for them, as they seldom inhabit depths of more than
fifteen fathoms. We got six, however, which furnished excel-
lent food for the dogs, and our Chinese cook was an adept
in making walrus sausage for our amine.

" Bear chases were frequent and exciting, and about fifteen
animals were obtained the first year. Mr. Dunbar was the
champion bear-slayer, and was always ready for a keen jump
when game was reported. During the first winter a tre-
mendous bear approached the ship about midnight, drove
die dogs in, and attempted to board us over the port gang-
plank. The alarm was given. Mr. Dunbar was on deck
instantly, with rifle in hand, and shot the bear through the
heart at ten paces. It was probably the biggest and most
ferocious bear secured on the cruise, and he had been at-
tracted by the quarters of his comrade that were triced up in
the fore-rigging. A few foxes were seen, and their tracks
quite frequendy observed. They seemed to either accom-
pany or follow the bears, like pilot-fish with the sharks, and
jackals with their ferocious and stronger friends.

"During the summer some of us used to take the skin-
boats, or the dingy, and paddle among the cracks. On one
occasion Captain DeLong was alone in the dingy, and was in-
terviewed by a bear, who suddenly approached out of the
mist and stood watching him in the most dignified manner.
The captain retreated in good order. During the summer it
was very difficult to get bears, because they could take to the
water so readily, and thus cut off their pursuers. During- the
misty times they were very bold, and on one occasion a she-
bear with two cubs approached the ship to within 400 yards
of the starboard quarter. Fortunately, the dogs were on the
port side and to windward, so they did not scent the bear,
The greatest Quietness prevailed, and a squad of about ten
riflemen was immediately organized on the poop. I was
watching the bears through a cabin air-port, and it was a very
fine sight to see the mother and her two cubs approach the
ship in a wondering and cautious manner. I could see better
under the mist than the people en the poop. I heard the
captain say:

"'Do any of you think it is over 250 yards?'

"All seemed to agree, and he said:

" 'Aim at 250 yards, and wait for the word " Fire." '

"Then succeeded a volley. The bears reeled and made sev-

NARRATIVE OF LIEUTENANT DANENHOWER.

247

eral turns, and I thought we had bagged all of them, but was
astonished to see them get up and walk off in the most lively
manner. Of course all the dogs took the alarm and pursued
them to the first crack, which the bears calmly swam across,
and thus escaped. But large drops of blood were seen, and
the she-bear lay down once or twice as if wounded. In mak-
\n<y her retreat she drove her cubs before her, and became-
impatient when they moved slowly. The bears had been hit,
but the distance had been underestimated, and most of the
shots had fallen short. This was not extraordinary because
it was very misty.

"After this one year of experience in the ice we concluded
that the general motion of the ice was due principally to the
wind, and that the resultant of the winds was from the south-
east. Some of us talked about the polar region being cov-
ered with an immense ' ice-cap,' which seemed to have a slow,
general movement in the direction of the hands of a watch,
the direction of the drift, of course, being different in the dif-
ferent segments. The influence of Wrangell Island would be
to impede the drift of the segment lying to the northward and
eastward, and I imagined that there must be a constant strife
between Wrangell Land and the solid phalanx of ice from the
northeast. This polar ice-cap we know throws off in its rev-
olutions millions of acres every year through the gates of
Robeson Channel and between Iceland and Greenland. A
branch of the Gulf Stream attacks it from the Spitzbergen
side, and its influence is felt as far as the North Cape of Asia.
The general motion of this 'cap' must be very slow, but the
local motions of course depend upon the depth of the ocean
and the vicinity of land, and near nature's outlets it is very
rapid.

" Melville gave me lots of food for reflection. He analyzed
all data obtaina'ole from the Hydrographic Office reports and
Arctic literature, and marked on the circumpolar chart witli
arrows the currents as reported by various navigators, as well
as those mentioned in the theories of distinguished eeogra-
phers. We constantly discussed the question, and both felt
assured that if the ship could remain intact long enough, she
would eventually drift out between Spitzbergen and Bear
Island to Atlantic waters. A very high latitude would doubt-
less be attained, and would depend in a great measure on the
influence of Franz Joseph Land upon the motion of the pack.

KUi

, m

248

ARCnC EXPLORATIONS.

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If the ship passed to the southeast of it, tiie local motion to
the southwest might be very rapid by the pack impinorin.i o,^
those lands ; antj if passincr to the northward, the pack would
be deflected toward the Pole and a very high latitude would
be obtained, supposing no polar continental land to exist, it
is my opinion that had we entered the pack 200 miles to the
eastward of where we did, we could have worked up near
Prince Patrick Land ; for CoUinson found the deepest water
over there to the eastward, and sounded with 133 fathoms
without finding bottom.

" Our smallest depth the first year's drift was seventeen
fathoms, and the greatest depth not over sixty, the average
being generally thirty, and the ocean bottom usually uniform,
with blue mud and in some cases shale — something like round
pieces of potato, cut thin and fried, and supposed to be mete-
oric specimens. We felt pretty sure that we would continue
to drift to the northwest during the following year, but I was
not sure what influence the peculiar coast-line in the vicinity
of the North Cape would exert, it being in the form of an
elbow, and must therefore have great influence on the general
motion of the pack.

" From the fact that the spars of the Shenandoah's devas-
tations drifted to Herald Island, and that the whaling bark
Gratitude had been last seen drifting to the northwest in that
vicinity, we augured that there must also be some northwest
current ; but we have no other evidence of a current except
the formation of banks and shoals in the vicinity of Herald
Island, which ma r be similar to the formation of the Grand
Banks, by the ice bringing earthy matter there. The locality
east-northeast of Wrangell Land may be regarded as the
Arctic doldrum"^ , as far as drift is concerned. We also con-
sidered the possibility of drifting down the western side of
Wrangell Land, and then again, perhaps, once more being
able to shift for ourselves.

" The general nealth of the ship's company was excellent,
and we looked forward coolly, but not without some anxiety,
to the long night of the second winter, during which time we
might at any instant be rendered homeless and at the mercy
of the Arctic fiends.

"At the beginning of September, 1880, the Jeannette was
firmly embedded in ice of about eight feet in thickness : but
there were immense masses shoved under her keel, and the

NARRATIVE OF LIEUTENANT DANENIIUWER.

249

bows were lifted so that the keel was inclined about one
degree, the ship at the same time heeling to starboard two
decrees, and so firmly held in this gigantic vice that when
the blacksmith struck his anvil in the fire-room, one could
see the shrouds and stays vibrate, and they were not very
taut. Our executive officer had slackened up the rigging
during the first winter, and the contraction of wire rigging by
the intense cold was of course very great. The ice was piled
up under the main chains and as high as the plank-sheer. In
the vicinity of the ship the ice was tumbled about in the great-
est confusion, and travelling over it was almost an impossi-
bility.

"In the latter part of September, when the cracks froze
over, came the best time for travel, but the outlook was poor.
There was comparatively little snow, and what there was
was constantly blown by the wind, and rendered salt by attri-
tion on the surface of the ice, so that we could not use it for
culinary purposes. The captain was very favorable to fall
travelling, and he several times expressed himself to the
effect that he would not abandon the ship while there was a
pound of provisions left, and we generally understood that
he would hold on a year longer, and probably start when the
fall travelling comrr^nced, a year later. We all considered
that if our provisions held out long enough, if we were not
attacked by scurvy, and if the ship was not crushed by the
ice, we should eventually drift out after reaching the vicinity
of Franz Joseph Land, either north or south of it. The morale
of the ship's company was excellent, yet we looked anxiously
toward the long night of the second winter, which proved to
be the most fearful part of our experience. The anxiety and
mental strain on many of us were the greatest at that time.
We were so completely at the mercy of the ice that the ves-
sel might be crushed at any moment by the thundering agen-
cies which we constantly heard.

" In the month of September the ship was put in winter
quarters for the second time. She was banked up with snow,
the deck-house was put up for the use of the men, and the
awning spread so that the spar-deck was completely housed
over. Economy and retrenchment were the order of the day
in fuel, provisions, and clothing. The old winter routine of
meals, two hours' exercise, and so on, commenced on Novem-
ber ist, and all was going well.

I '

. I'

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ii' i 1

250

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

"November and December werci extremely cold, bin vve
had no severe ijales that I r. member. The meteor{)l()Mi(.^l
observations were taken every hour during- the first year, but
every two hours only (lurin<j the second. They were very
thoroui^h, and Mr. Collins was very watchful to add some-
thing^ to the science to which he was so thorouq^hly d^^votcd.
Uurino- my sickness the captain and Mr. Chipp took the
astronomical observations, but each officer in the ship jiad a
round of duty as weather observer and to assist Mr. Collins.
There was a quartermaster on watch all the time, and suam
was kept on the Baxter boiler for distilling purposes. To
save coal, fires were put out in the galley at 3 i'. m., bcincr
used only from 7 a. m. till that hour.

"The month of January, 1881, was remarkable for its
changeable temperature, and as being wanner than the two
previous months. About the middle of the month the wind
set in from the southeast, and subsequendy to that time the
drift of the ship was nniformly to the northwest. The depth
of the water begaii to increase toward the northwest, but
would always <.iecr(>ase toward the southeast or southwest, as
well as to the northeast. The vessel seemed to drift in a
groove, which we called Melville's Canal, as he was the first
to call attention to the fact. Mr. Cliipp took the soundings
every morning, and by long experience we could judge of
the drift so acciu'ately that his dead reckoning generally tal-
lied with the observations. He adopted a scale by which
'slow' drift meant three nautical miles per day ; 'moderate,'
six miles; 'rapid,' nine miles; 'very rapid,' twelve miles. He
always reckoned the direction and speed of the drift and
placed the ship before making the observation. His judg-
ment was excellent. He and the cai)tain made frequent
lunar observations for chronometer errors, but those ot the
eclipses of Jupiter's satellites were the best.

"February was the coldest month; and the mean for the
three months was only six degrees lower than that for the
fame months during the previous year. The soundings gen-
erahy ran thirty-three, but one morning Mr. Dunbar sounded
ir forty-four ; some called that place Dunbar Hole. We
drifted over this spot once again at a later period. The ab-
sence of animal life prior to May was greater than during the
previous y^ar. All hands i united every day, especially as the
doctor wanted fresh meat for the Indian Alexei, who was said

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AUrriC KXI'I.OUAIIONS.

to have tlu> scurvy, and siiHcrixl very L;rcatly fioin ;^\),
sccsscs on liis leg. On May ist, Dr. AniUlcr ri'jjoricd i|,p
I)liysical condition of tlu; crew rapidly tlcterioralino, aiid six
or seven were placed on whiskey ami (|uinine to toiK ihcm
iij). The W(?ath(T at this time was good, ami tluTe wen: no
spring gales. Of course when 1 say good, it is in an Arclir
sen St!.

"During the month of May, old man Dunbar was always
in the crow's-nest, ami got blind several times, 'j'lu; o\i\
gentleman was looking out sharj) lor land, and about the
1 6th of May he was the first to announce: it in sight. Von
can imagine tlu; excitement it caused, for we had not seen
land for many months and had not set foot on it for ni'arly
two years.

" Jeannette Island, as the new land was called, was not
lancleil on, but the astronomical position of it could be, and
doubtless was, well established from the data obtained by
Captain DeLoiig. It was by triangulation, on the base (es-
tablished by obscM'vations on dilferent days, the ship havini,^
drifted rapidly and giving a long base line, the extremities of
which were established by artificial horizon and sextant obser-
vations. I was conl'inc;d to my room at the time of the dis-
covery, but every item of it was brought to me by Dunbar,
Melville, and Chipp, and everything was so minutely dc-
3c. Ibed to me that I could almost see the land through the
ship's side.

" I understood Jeannette Island to be small and rocky.
The southern end appeared high, and the land sloped ddwn
to a low point to the northward when the island was first seen,
but subsequently mountains behind the low point were ob-
served, ami from this fact the island \vas adjudged to be more
extensive than at first supposed. Sketches were made when-
ever the island was in sight, but it would have been foolish
to have attempted a journey to it, for the drift of the ship was
too rapid and the state of the ice so changeable,

"A few days afterwards, Henrietta Island hove in sight, and
appeared extensive. The drift of the ship seemed arrested
by the northeast extremity of the island. Lieutenant Chipp
was sick abed with what afterwards proved to be tin poison-
ing, and 1 was confined to my room with my eyes. So Mr.
Melville had the good fortune to be the first to visit Henri-
etta Island, and he did his work admirably. When he left the

NAUUAIIVK OK I.IKl) I KNAN I DANKNIIOWKK.

253

ship tin* captain jiu1l;('c1 tlic island to Ik* Ironi twelve to fifteen
miles distant, it appeared so plain, i)iit he had not yet trian-
(nilalctl for it owinij;" to the slate of the weather.

"The jonrney Iroin tin; ship to I lenrietta Island was one
ot the hardest on record. Melville had to tnivel over inv
nu'iisc; masses of broken ice that were constantly in motion,
and in most easels the. doi^s were worse than useless. I !(,'
laiul(;d in a state; of" exhaustion, took a short run on the
island, and th(Mi ortieretl the men to turn in. I h; inteiidc^d
to sleep until ten o'clock the next morniuL;-, hut was j)rol)al)ly
anxious, and when Ik; turned out his w.itch said seven o'clock,
but it was probably v. m. In his anxiety hv. hail slept only
an hour anil a half or two hours. The men said that thi^y
felt as if th(;y wt.'re just j^oini; to sleep. I'CelinL; confident,
however, that they had passed the twelve hours in their
slcc|)in_!4-ba^s, he finished the examination of the island and
startetl back to the ship, and was surprised on his return
that he had ij^ained twelve hours in time. This was not sur-
prising-, from the fact that during,'' his visit to the island he
did not sec the sun but once, at which time Erickson said :
'The sun is west, sir, and it is morninsj;^ with iis.' So Mr.
Melville, on his return, had a sus[)icion that his time was
'out'

" Durinn- this trip Mr. Dunbar broke down with snow-
blinilness, and had to be carried back by the [)arty to th(; ship.
On the way to the island he went ahead to scdect the road,
and worked so hard and used his eyes so much that he be-
caiiK; thoroug-hly disabled. The old oi:ntl('man felt very
badly, it being- the first time in his Ioiil^ career that he had
over been physically unequal to the occasion. 1 le begged
Melville to leave him, his mortification was so great. But of
course this was not done. The others bore the trip remark-
ably well. They had been picked out as tlie flower of the
ship's company.

"There was a mountain on the island that the men named
after the captain's little daughter — ' Mount Sylvie ; ' also an-
other mountain, which was called ' Mount Chipp ; ' two very
bold headlands were called 'Bennett Headlands;' one bald
cape was called ' Cape Melville,' in honor of one of the chief
engineer's characteristics. There was a low, shingle-beach
cape extending to the northeast, that was called ' Point Dun-
bar.' All these names were given by the sailors who rambled

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arctic: kxplorations.

over the island, and we liave always called thenj by the names
thus originally given them. At one time the land appeared
so near to us that Machinist Lee said to me : * Why, I can
walk there and back, sir, before dinner.' On that day I was
able to get on deck, and judged the land to be between
twenty and thirty miles distant, and so I advised my friend
not to try it.

" Melville told me that he could not tell the distance he
travelled to within ten miles, but that the lowest possible
estimate was eighteen, and the highest twenty-eight miles.
You see, his journey back was on a different route, because
the ship had drifted and had approached the island in the
meantime. He gave me every detail of his trip with great
minuteness. The island was bold and rocky, with a small
number of birds, principally guillemots, and very litde deer-
moss on the place where he landed. But, of course, we do
not know the possibilities of the extensive region to the south-
west of the landing-point.

"The island was covered with an ice and snow cap, and the
immense glacier near the landing-place was gigantic and
magnificent. I think Melville got eighteen fathoms close to
the island. No seal or walrus were seen, and no traces of
bears on the island. No driftwood was seen. Melville built
a cairn, and buried a square, copper case containing copies
of the JVeza York Herald, brought from New York by Mr.
Collins, and a copper cylinder containing official documents
— the latter being a record of Captain DeLong's determina-
tion to stay by the ship to the last moment. He announced
in them his determination to stand by the ship as long as
possible, as \\^\ was in hopes of making a high latitude during
the following summer. We were all very glad when Mel-
ville got back, for the ice had commenced to swing around
the corner of Henrietta Island very rapidly, the land to the
westward of Bennett Headlands coming out rapidly, and
keeping Collins and Newcomb busily sketching as the view
changed."

CHAPTER XVII.

LIEUTENANT DANENHOWER's NARRATIVE CONTINUED.

The Ship Drifting to the Northwest — The Final Moments in the Life of the Jeannette —
Abandoning the Jeannette — The Ship Fills with Water and Sinks — Encamped on the Ice
—Preparing for the Trav.l Southward — Bennett Island.

" The ship continued drifting to the northwest rapidly until
June loth. During this time the ice in which she was em-
bedded began to crack, and the area of the piece was decreas-
ing rapidly. We knew that the important moment was
coming when the Jeannette would be liberated from this
Cyclopean vice, and that her future would be more hazardous
than while in the monster's grip ; for., it was impossible to
shape a course, and she would be momentarily liable to be
crushed by the impact of the antagonistic floe-pieces, which
sent immense masses of ice into the air, and among which the
Jeannette would be like a glass toy-ship in a railroad col-
lision.

"About eleven p. m., June loth, I was awakened by the ship's
motion. It sounded as if she were sliding do»vn hill, or off
the launching-ways. I was frightened for an instant, but im-
mediately recovered and jumped out of bed for my clothes.
The ship had slid off her bed after the ice on the port side
had opened with a loud crack. There she floated calmly on
the surface of the beautiful blue water.

"The Jeannette was finally released from her icy fetters
after an imprisonment of twenty-one months — that is, almost
the entire duration of our voyage — during which time we had
been drifting with the pack. The important point of this
drift is that we traversed an immense area of ocean, at times
gyrating in almost perfect circles, and it can now safely be
said that land does not exist in that area. Of course the
depth and character of the ocean-bed and the drift were also
determined, as well as the ai:imal life that exists in this part
of the world ; also the character of the ocean water, and

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ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

many other facts of interest which were finished with the dis-
covery of the two new islands.

"At this time we had a feehng of pleasure and pride that
our voyage had not been entirely in vain, and we felt sure
that we could add considerable to the knowledge of this
region of the Arctic ; and if we could have got out safely
without loss of life, the voyage would have been a grand suc-
cess. Captain DeLong, in my opinion, entered the; ice
boldly and deliberately, with the intention of trying the most
hazardous route to the Pole that has ever been contemplated.
When spoken to on the subject, within a few days after we
found ourselves imprisoned, I stated that to be my opinion,
and that he had undertaken the most daring and magnificent
venture on record.

"To return to the Jeannette. She was (loating idly, but,
of course, could not proceed, being hemmed in on all sides
by almost limitless masses of ice in close contact, and having
only a small pool in which she could bathe her sides. The
starboard half of her old cradle remained, so she was hauled
into it, and secured with ice-anchors on the bow and quarter,
to await her chances to escape. The rudder had been pre-
viously shipped, and the screw-propeller had been found to
be undamaged, so every preparation was made to move at a
moment's notice. On June nth Henrietta Island was seen
for the last time, to the southeast of us.

"I will now describe the supreme and final moments in the
life of the Jeannette. At this period of the cruise I was able
to spend one hour on deck, three times a day, for exercise,
the last relapse of my left eye having taken place a month
previous. I went on deck at one o'clock in the afternoon, ;ind
saw the hunters start out. The day was clear and l3cautiful,
there was a light wind from the northeast, and in some quar-
ters of the horizon it was misty and very much as in the
trade-wind regions of the Pacific. A large party war. sent
out to get seals and guillemots, if possible. My hour was up,
but I still lingered on the quarter-deck, for the ice on the port
si'le, some twenty-five yards distant, had commenced to move
t'Avard us, and I was fascinated by the dangers of the situa-
tion.

" The captain was on deck, and immediately hoisted the
hunters' recall, which was a big, black cylinder, at the main
truck. They began to come in, one by one, and the la^

NilRUATIVE OF LIEUTENANT DANENIIOWER.

257

ones were Bartlett and Anequin, who were dragging a seal
with them. At die time of their arrival the ice was in con-
tact with the port side of the ship, and she was heeled about
twelve degrees to starboard, with port-bilges heavily pressed.
The two hunters approached on the port side, passed their
auns to nie, and came up by a rope's end that I had thrown
to them. The pressure on the ship was terrible, and we
knew that she must either lift and be thrown up bodily upon
the ice, or be crushed. During the whole cruise, provisions,
tents, and boats with sleds, were kept ready for immediate
use, and at this time every step was taken for the impending
catastrophe.

"About three p. m.. Machinist Lee reported the ice coming
through the bunkers, and the captain immediately ordered,
'Lower away!' — men having been previously stationed at
the boats' falls, and some provisions put on the ice. Melville
immediately contradicted the report, and the captain delayed
the order. Thus the ship lay for two hours and a half, the
pressure of the ice relaxing at times and the ship almost
righting. Then again she would be hove over to twenty-
three degrees, and we felt sure there was no longer any hope
for her, for she would not lift. There was nothing in the
world to be done to assist her at that time. We had to de-
pend upon her shape. She floated much higher than when
we entered the pack, and that led us to hope that she would
lift easier in the nip ; for the pressure of the ice would be
below the point where her sides commenced to tumble home.
On the starboard side, while she was heeling, the nip was felt
on her timber-heads, v/hich were the weakest parts of the
frame; but on the port side she was pressed below the turn
of the bilge. Her fate was practically decided the moment
we found she would not lift, and a large amount of provisions
and clothing was then placed on the ice in readiness for the
catastrophe.

"One watch went to supper at half-past five, and the offi-
cers had bread and tea in the cabin at six. I was on the sick-
list, with eyes bandaged, but told the doctor that I could get
the charts and instruments together and be of assistance.
He said he would ask the captain. Each officer kept his
knapsack in his room, and most of us thought it was time to
have them on deck ; but we would not make the move until
ordered for fear of attracting the attention of the crew, who

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258

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

were at work on provisions and boats. While I was ta'uncr
tea, I saw Dunbar bring his knapsack up, and put it in the
cabin. FeeHnij that the moment had arrived, I went for mine
and at the head of the ladder on my return the doctor said
to me :

*' ' Dan, the order is to get knapsacks.'

" It seems that he had stepped below and found water in
the wardroom, which he reported to the captain, and the
order was tlien given to abandon the ship. The national en-
sign was hoisted at the mizzen, and Captain DeLong was on
the bridge directing the work.

"Lieutenant Chipp was confined to his bed. I threw my
knapsack over the starboard rail, and returned for clothes,
but on stepping into water, when half way down the ward-
room ladder, I realized that the ship was filling rapidly. The
'doctor and I then carried Chipp's belongings out, and I was
told to take charge of the medical stores, especially the
liquor. The ship in this condition was like a broken basket,
and only kept from sinking by the pressure of the ice, which
at any moment might relax and let her go to the bottom.

"The crew worked well, and Edward Star, seaman, espe-
cially distinguished himself. He was doing duty at the time
as paymaster's yeoman, or 'Jack o' the Dust.' The order
was given to get up more Remington ammunition, and he
went into the magazine when the ship was filling rapidly and
succeeded in getting two cases out. This man was in Lieu-
tenant Chipp's boat afterward. We always thought him a
Russian, but he spoke English very well and never would
speak of his nationality; but during his dreams he talked in
a language that was neither l^jiglish, French, German, Swed-
ish, Spanish, nor Italian, and most of the men thought it was
Russian. He was an excellent man and a giant in strencrth.
The captain thought a great deal of him, for he served him
faithfully in every resj)onsible position.

"When the order was given to abandon the ship her hold
was full of water, and as she was heeling twenty-three de-
grees to starboard, at the rime the water was on the lower
side of the spar-deck. We had a large quantity of provis-
ions on the ice about a hundred yards from the ship, but Mr.
Dunbar, who was alive to the occasion, advised the shifting
of these to an adjacent and rrorc fkvorabie floe-piece. It
took us till eleven p. m. to effect the /'-aicnal. We also had

NARRATIVE OF LIEUTENANT DANENIIOVVER.

259

three boats — namely, the first cutter, second cutter, and the
whale-boat. As soon as Dr. Ambler had looked out for
Chipp, he relieved me at my j30st, and I went to work with
No. 3 sled party, which 1 had been detailed previously to
command. The order war y;iven to camp and get coffee ; so
wc pitched our tents abreast of the whale-boat, and I set
about fitting out for the retreat.

"VVhile waiting- for coffee I walked over to the ship to take
a final look at her, and found the captain, Boatswain Coles
and Carpenter Sweetman on the port side looking at her
under-water body, which was hove well out of water, I ob-
served that the ship's side between the foremast and smoke-
stack had been buckled in by the pressure, and that the
second whale-boat was hanging at the davits, and also that
the steam-cutter was lying on the ice near by. Coles and
Sweetman asked the captain if we could lower the second
whale-boat, and the captain said ' No.' The three boats, how-
ever, were considered enough; and while journeying on the
ice we afterwards found Chipp's boat to be the iavorite with
all hands, because she was considered short and handy, with
sufficient carrying capacity for eight men. I then suggested
to the men to return to camp, for the captain doubtless wish.ed
to be left alone with the Jeannette in her last moments.

"We three returned to the camp together, having to jump
across numerous v;ide cracks and from piece to piece, and
soon after the watch was set and the order given to turn in.
Most of us obeyed the order promptly, and were just getting
into our bags when we heard a crack and a cry from some
one in the captain's tent. The ice had cracked immediately
nnder the captain's tent, and Erickson would have gor .:;to
the water but for the mackintosh blanket in vvliich he and the
others were lying — the weight of the others at the ends keep-
uv^ the middle of it from falling throui^h. The order was im-
mediately given to shift to another floe-piece. This was aboi:t
three hundred yards from the untenable ship. Alter al.)oiit
two hours' work we succeeded in shifting all our goods and
oiu- three boats to It. We then turned in.

"About four o'clock I was awakened by seaman Kuehne
calling his relief. Fireman Bartlett, who was in our tent.
Kuehne called to Bartlett t'^at the ship was sinking, and the
latter jumped to the teri -loor and saw the si)ars of the
Jeannette after the hull was below the surface. We heard the

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ARCTIC EXI'I.ORATIONS.

crash, but those were the only t\ > men wlio saw tlic \(>ssel
<lisapj3(jar. It was said tliat the ice first closed iipen her
then relaxini^ allovvin<^ the wreck to sink ; the yards caurrht
across the ice and broke off, but bein^; held by the lifts and
braces were carried down ; depth, thirty-eight fathoms, as I
remember.

" The next morninor the captain and others visited the spot,
and found only one cabin chair and a few pieces of wood-
all that remained of our old and good friend, the Jeann(;ttt.',
which for many months had endured the embrace ot the
Arctic monster.

"The Jeannette sank about four o'clock on the morninor of
Monday, June 13th, 1881. Daylight found us encam[jed on
the ice about four hundred yards from where the shij) went
down. We had slept late after the exhausting work of the
previous night. The day was spent by us in arranging our
effects and in gaining rest, which was much needed. Many
of us, indeed quite a quarter of the number, were incapaci-
tated for active work by reason o'" severe cramps caused bv
tin-poisoning by tomato cans. Among the sick were Chipp,
Kuehne, the Indian Alexei, Lauderback, and the cabin
steward.

" The doctor recommended delp ....til the sick party should
have recovered ; but the time was not wasted, and the rest
of the crew began the work of dividing the clothing and
stowing the sleds and the boats We had as provisions about
3,500 pounds of pemmican in tinned canisters of forty-five
pounds weight each, about 1,500 pounds of hard bread, and
more tea than vve needed. We had also some canned turkey
and canned chicken, but these we disposed of in the first
camp. We had a large quantity of Liebig's extract — a most
important element in our diet. We had a large quantity of
alcohol, which was intended to serve as fuel for cookino- dur-
ing our retn;at. We had plenty of ammunition, and a good
equipment of rifles. The provisions were stf)wed on five
sleds, each having a tier of alcohol cans in the middle, and
on either side a tier of pemmican canisters. Another sled was
loaded with bread and a limited quantity of sugar and coffee.
The weights of the sleds, when loaded, were as follows :

"No. I — vShip-made sled, 1,500 pounds.

"No. 2 — McClintock sled, 1,300 pounds.

"No. 3 — McClintock sled, 1,200 pounds.

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ARCTIC EXPL(3RATI0NS.

" No. 4 — McCHntock sled, 1,300 pounds.
"No. 5 — McCHntock sled, 1,300 pounds.
" Total, 6,600 pounds.

"We had three boats, mounted on ship-made sleds, eadi
of which consisted of two lieavy oak runners, about twelve
inches high and shod with whalebone, of about twelve Ic.et in
length, and having eight to ten cross-pieces made from wliis-
key-barrel staves. The weight of the first cutter, with sled
and outfit, was 3,000 pounds; weight of second cutter, with
sled and outfit, 2,300 pounds ; weight of wiiale-boat, with sled,
2,500 pounds. Making a total ot 7,800 pounds, or a grand
total of sleds and boats of 15,400 pounds.

" To draw these we had a working force, when the retreat
commenced, of twenty-two men ; and the dogs were em-
ployed, with two light St. Michael's sleds, to drag a lar^e
amount of stores we had in excess of those permanently
stowed upon the larger sleds. Each man had a knapsack
stowed away in the boats ; each knapsack contained one
change of underclothing, one package of matches, one plu"-
of tobacco, one spare pair of snow-goggles, and spare pair
of moccasins.

"On the 1 6th of June, three days after the Jeannette had
sunk, the captain called all hands and read an order to the
effect that we should start at 6 i\ m. on the followino day, on
our march south ; that we would work during the night and
sleep during tiie day, to avoid the intense light, which niigiu
cause snow blindness, the routine to be as follows:

"At half past five p. m., call all hands, have breakfast, and
break camp at half past six ; at twelve, midnight, stop one-
half hour for dinner; at six a. m. stop for supper ami sleep.
Ration table durinij the march to be as follows:

" Breakfast (per man) — F"our ounces pemmican, two bis.
cuits, two ounces of coffee, two-thirds ounce sugar.

" Dinner — Eight ounces pemmican, one ounce Liebig, one-
half ounce tea, two-thirds ounce sugar.

"Supper — Four ounces pemmican, one-half ounce tea, two-
thirds ounce sugar, two biscuits, one ounce of lime-juice.

"This amounted to less than two pounds per man per diem.
The party was divided into five tents.

"No. J — Captain DeLong. Mr. Collins, and five others.

" No. 2 — Lieut. Chipp, Dunbar, and five others.

" No. 3 — Lieut. Danenhower, Newcomb, and five others.

NARRATIVE OF LIEUTENANT DAN IIOWKR.

263

"No. 4 — Engineer Melville, and five others.

" No. 5 — I^f. Ambler, Boatswain Cole, and five others.

"The captain had also an office-tent, in which half of his
men were berthed. The tents were nine feet long by six in
width, and nx^uired very close stowage for seven men. Kach
tent had a fire-pot, a heavy galvanized-iron kettle, in which a
copper kettle was arranged, having an alcoiiol-lamp beneath
it, with a circular asbestos wick ten inches in diameter. It
also had a stewpan on lop. A cook was detailed to each
tent, with an assistant to provide snow and to draw provisions.
luich tent had a Mackintosh blanket nine by six, upon which
the men could lie at night. Tlu slccping-bags were made
of deer-skin, covered with hairless seal-skin or cotton drilling.
In our tent there were three such single bags and two donbhi
ones; but generally single bags were in the other tents.
Ours had been designed by Mr. Dunbar in November, 1879,
and were the only ones that did not require alteration after
we got on the ice. Each boat was provided with an outfit of
oars, a boat-box, with suitable articles for repairing damages,
and ammunition for the arms that had been detailed to each
boat

"The order said that the course would be south 17° east
(magnetic), which was south (true). I may here state that
the boat compasses were intentionally left behind, because
the captain said he preferred the pocket prismatic compasses.
We had six splendid Richie boat compasses, always kept in
the Jeannette ready for instant use, but they were, as I said,
left behind, much to our detriment at a later pe-riod. Each
boat had been provided with a lufT-tackle, anchor, and grap-
nel. Of course the anchor and grapnel had to be left behind;
but the whale-boat retained the luff-tackle, which proved ex-
tremely useful at a later date. The order of march was as
follows :

"All hands, except a special detail of four men, were to
advance the first cutter to the first black flag established by
Ice-pilot Dunbar, who was to go ahead to select the best road;
then the second cutter and the whale-boat and provision-sleds
were to be brought up to the first station as rapidly as pos-
sible. While this was going on, the special detail of four
men, widi St. Michael sleds, were to advance the extra pro-
visions; and the sick, with the hospital sled, were also to
move to the front.

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AKCTIC; EXri.OKATIONS.

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" Wc were ordered to sleep during the afternoon of June
17th, and on th(! anniversary of the batde of Bunker Hill ^vc
commenced our lony;- retreat. Chipp was on the sick-lis!, and
I, with my eyes conslandy bandaged and covered, could onK-
do hght duty — so the task of leading the working-pariy fcjl
to IVIelville, the captain directing. Each officer and man was
provided with a harness, which consisted of a broad canvas
strap, fashioned to go across the chest and over one shoulder,
and which had to be attached to the sled by a lanyard.

"At last the order was given to break camp. The order
was obeyed with enthusiasm, and the drag-rope of the first
cutter was Immediately manned, Melville, Dr. Ambler, my-
self, and two other men stationing ourselves on either side
of the boat with harness fast to the thwarts, and then our
work commenced in terrible earnest. The snow was knee
deep, the road very rough, and the ice full of fissures.
Through the former our feet sank easily, soon wearying the
best of us ; over the fissures. If not too wide, we had to junii)
the boats, and we had to drag the sled over lumps of ice tliat
would have taken a whole corps of engineers to level. lUit
we advanced steadily, if slowly. We reached one of the black
flags that had been planted by Ice-pilot Dunbar, but seeing
that he had planted another one ahead of us we pushed on
with the first cutter to reach that too. This goal reached,
we found that we were a mile and a half from the staitinir-
place, and that it had taken us three hours to make the dis-
tance.

" But we, In our enthusiasm, had gone too far. It appears
that the captain had only intended that we should make a
single short station on the first day, but the order had prob-
ably been misunderstood by Mr. Dunbar, whose only wish
was that we shoidd make as good progress as possible. So
we had to return ; but on our way back we found that the ice
had shifted and that our original road had been entirely
broken up, and so we had to leave our ded midway between
the two dags and then go to the assistance of the rest. We
soon found that we had been fortunate widi the first cutter.
During our absence the captain, with a special detail and
dogs, had attempted to advance the second cutter and whale-
boat. He had launched the whale-boat across a fisr.ure, and
had broken the sled in hauling her out. No. i sled, named
the ' Sylvie,' had also been broken, as well as two others.

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NARRATIVE OV LIEUTENANT DANENHOVVER.

265

"The ice was all in motion, and wc had a very bad out-
look, with our boats and sleds at various points on tlie road.
Chipp had been ordered to advance with the hospital s](;d,
with Kiiehne and Alexei and thrtM- men to assist him. The
sled was heavily laden, and the work was too severe for the
first lieutenant in his weak state, and the result was that he
fainttd from sheer exhaustion, requiring the services of the
doctor to restore him.

"On our first outward march, Machinist Walter Lee had
fallen out of the ranks and rolled upon the ice in a<;ony with
cramps in the calves of his leo-s — a result, doubtless, of his
havinL,^ work(;d for so many months on the iron plates of the
tire-room, oftentimes with wet feet. He was a lari^e, heavy-
bodied man, and the unusual task fell heavily upon him at

first.

"At six o'clock in the morninu^ Uve had been in the reyion
of th- midnight sun since the early [)art of May) we had ad-
vanced the second cutter about three-quarters of a mile from
the old camp; the whale-boat was about a hundred yards
back of her. ^Several disabled sleds stood at intervals along
the road, while the balance of our stock still remained in the
spot where they had been placed before the Jeannette went
down. It was a cold, foggy morning, and we were very much
chagrined at our ineffective efforts. We had a cup of tea,
then brought up everything in the rear of the position of the
second cutter, and then camped down, leaving the first
cutter about three-quarters of a mile in advance. Everybody
voted this the harclest day's work he had ever done In his
life.

" For two days we stayed to repair damages, and we all
concluded that the 'now or never' policy of progress was a
very ineffectual one. It would have been better for us to
have spent a few minutes In removing the Ice obstacles out
of our way, rather than to attempt to drag the sleds over
them by brute force. I did not know much about sleds and
just how much spread to give the runners, but fortunately
seaman Leach was from the State of Maine, and I depended
on his judgment; and I may add, that our boat-sled never
broke down once after he and I^artlett — an old mountaineer
and Californlan traveller — had secured It.

"After two days we again made a start for the south. We
made slow progress, about a mile or a mile and a half a day,

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266

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

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over clie rough and moving floe. It was ♦^errible work for
the men. They had to go over the road no less than thirt(;en

times— seven times with loads and six times empty-haiuleil

thus walking twenty-six miles in making an advance of only
two! The empty-handed business was the worst.

"On the 19th of June the captain called me into his tent
and told me to go with the hospital sled because, he allefred,
I could not see. I remonstrated, but without avail. I went
back to my tent, naturally deeply mortified to know that
thirty-three men were working for their lives, and I was not
allowed to help even at the cooking, although physically I
was one of the strongest men of the party. That mornintr I
started with the hospital sled, which was dragged by seven
dogs, driven by Erickson, the doctor and I assisting over the
hummocks. We advanced over rough moving ice with (treat
difficulty about half a mile, and then set up the tent for the
three invalids — Chipp, Lauderback, and Alexei — to await the
coming up of the rest of the party. I myself would never ^o
inside the hospital tent. Thus the survivors trudged alon(r,
the well heavily handicapped by die six or seven who furnished
no motive power at all. Twenty-one men did all the work
for the thirty-three.

"At the end of the first week the captain found by obser-
vation that the drift had more than neutralized the way
covered by our advance; that, in fact, we had lost twenty-
seven miles by the drift to the northwest in excess of our
march to the south. This, of course, was kept a profound
secret.

"By-and-by Lauderback and Alexei got well enoui:;h to
work ; and finally Mr. Chipp, after several ineffectual requests
to be put on duty, was allowed to relieve Melville and take
charge of the working party. Melville was put in charsre
of the road gang, which consisted of Lee and seaman Johnson,
with the dingy and the team of dogs. Their principal duty
was to keep in position the blocks of ice that were used as
temporary bridges to enable the sleds to pass safely over the
fissures. We often came to wide water holes, which caused
us mucii delay in ferrying over. The method of doing this
was as follows :

" First, a large ice piece was found ; on this the boats and
sleds were placed, and then all the floating mass was drawn
over by the men on the other side, who had transported them-

NARRATIVE OF LIEUTENANT DANENHOWER.

267

selves across by the little tlinyfy or even on smaller ice floes.
Some of these water spaces were as much as a hundred yards
wide. These openings were not connected, and of course
could not be used in the direction we wished to go. On
many occasions the boats had to be launched and paddled
across, and then hauled up again on the opposite side.
Chipp took charge of this part of the work admirably, and
the men were always glad to have him at their head. It was
wonderful how he kept up.

"As soon as the list was clear of sick the hospital tent was
dispensed with, and I for many days walked after the whale-
boat, but with Melville always watching me in jumping cracks
and pulling me out when I fell in. I found it very difficult to
judge of distances with one eye bandaged and the other
covered with a dark goggle. Collins generally walked with
me ; Newcomb and seaman Star followed other sledges, all
of us suspended from work. Besides these the captain, Chipp,
Melville, and the doctor added little or nothing to the motive
power. Eight persons out of thirty-three, or twenty-five per
cent, of the whole, were thus, so to speak, not working their
passage across the ice.

'V^n the latter part of June the snow all melted and travel-
ling was better, but the men had to wade through pools of
thaw-water and their feet were constantly wet. Seaman
Kaack's feet were covered with blood-blisters, but he never
gave in. Nindemann and I^artlett were always the leading
men in dragging the boats, each bein-'- stationed at the bow
to slew them and to lift them over heavy obstructions. As
die roads became better we were ablt; to advance two sleds
at a time, but we would often have to jump them from piece
to piece in crossing leads. Jack Cole and Harry Warren
were the leading men of one party, and I^arlett and Ninde-
mann of the other. The number of times passed over the
s^^round was now reduced to seven, and the advance was thus
very much facilitated. Mr. Dunbar used to start out, with
two or three flags on his shoulder, and pick out the best
road, planting his flags here and there in prominent places.
The old gentleman was very careful and efficient, though the
captain would often take an entirely different road — on sev-
eral occasions insisting on ferrying the goods across after the
ice had come together within fifty yards of us.

"About the 12th of July we saw a 'whale back' that looked

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268

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

very much like a snow-covered island. There had been some
slight changes in the course previous to this. I think it was
changed to south (magnetic), which would be about south 17
(true), for there was about 17 degrees of easterly variation.
The captain then shaped the course toward the point were
land was thought to have been seen. At this time we beaan
to see a heavy water sky to the south and southeast, and
the ice to the southwest was ntore broken and in c^^reatert
motion, making travelling very difficult. About July 20th
we worked nearly twelve hours in advancing 1,000 yards
over small pieces of ice constantly shifting. We coiikl not
float the boats. The land already men«^ioned appeared i^^reatly
distorted by atmospheric effects, and indeed, until witlrn a
few days of reaching it, a great many would not believe tliat
it existed at all.

" Our progress toward the land was very slow, but finally
we could see the glaciers and water-courses upon it quite dis-
tinctly. We were shaping a course toward the northeast end
of the island, the drift of the ice being along the east face.
At times we were forced to remain idle in our camping-place,
it being quite impossible either to move over the rouc^h,
broken ice, always in rapid motion, or to launch the boats.
On the 24th of July we reached a point not m'^re than two
miles distant from the land, but the men were so exhausted
that we had to camp. Next morning we found that we had
drifted at least three miles to the southward and alonir the
east side of the island.

"July 27th was very foggy, and we were working our way
through living masses of ice, when the mist lifted a little and
an immense sugar-loaf towered above us. We had been
swept in by the current, and now seemed to be our chance
of reaching the ice-foot of the island, which was very narrow,
ruiTfred and broken, beintr asfround in nineteen fathoms of
water. W^e finally got everything on one big floe-piece, and
as we caromed on the ice-foot we made a rally and jumped
everything upon the ice-clad beach. But before the last
boats and sleds were hauled up the floe-piece drifted away,
leaving them perched on the edge of the ice in a very
dangerous position, and they had to be left there for some
hours. Then came the difficult work of getting the boats
and sleds through the very rough and broken ice-fringe
alone shore.

mi\^

NARRATIVE OF LIEUTENANT DANENHOWER.

269>

"About six p. M. we had succeeded in reacliing' some smooth
pieces near the south cape, and there we camped down, each
tent being on a separate piece of floe. There was a solid
brealvwater outside of us — consequently we were not in any
great danger, though the blocks we were on wer*^ sometimes
in motion as the tide rose and fell. At this point the sides
of the island were very bold and steep, composed of trap-
rock and a lava-like soil, very dry — so much so that frequent
land-slides were occurring all the time we were there. Mr.
Collins and I took a walk over the rough ice and along the
south point of the island in order to get a view of the south
side. It appeared very rugged and trended off to the west-
northwest. From a high hummock we saw land to the west-
northwest.

"About seven p. m. the captain mustered everybody on the
island. It was so steep that we could hardly get a footing.
He then unfurled the beautiful silk flag that had been made
for him by Mrs. DeLong, and took possession of the island
in the name of the President of the United States, and called
it ' Bennett Island.' This was succeeded by hearty cheers,
three times three, with a good American • tiger.' There were
millions of birds nesting in the cliffs, and their noise was
almost deafening. I think one seal was seen, but no walrus,
during our stay of nearly a week on the island. The south
cape was called Cape Emma, after the captain's wife, and was
in latitude 70 deg. 38 min. north, longitude 148 deg. 20 min.
east.

"The whaleboat was so long that in crossing hummocks the
stern-post used often to receive heavy knocks and her gar-
boards had been stove ; indeed, she had been shaken up so
badly that she was as limber as a basket and required re-
pairs, as did the other boats. The captain and doctor
thought, too, that the party needed rest and change of diet —
so the men were sent out to get birds and driftwood, so that
we could economize on our alcohol. In a few hours they
knocked down several hundred birds with sticks and stones.
These were brought into camp and divided out. Their effect
after being eaten was like that of young veal, and pretty
nearly every one of the party was made sick, the doctor
included. I used to eat half a peck of scurvy grass every
day, and that kept me well. We had hnally to return to pero-
mican, and were very glad to do so after such a surfeit of birds.

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ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

" Mr. Dunbar and the two Indians were sent up the < ast
side of the island to explore. They were i^one two days
and reached the northeast j)<)int. They found th(; land on
the east side was more promising than on the south, ihcy

PUFFINS, AUKS. AND OTHER ARCTIC BIRDS.

found several |nrrassy valleys, some old deer horns, some
driftwood, and saw larore numbers of birds. Lieutenant
Chipp, with Mr. Collins and a boat's crew, explored the south
and west sides, and promising reports came from them. A

NARRATIVK OF LlKUTKNANl' DANENIIOWKK.

271

fair quality of lignite was found in scvt^ral places. Mr. M'S-
ville cxpcriincnted with it, and determined that it would be
serviceable fuel for steaming; purposes.

•'TIk. tidal action at tlie island was very .threat, and quite
remarkable for this j)art of the world. Tlie ice outside of us
was in constant motion, and seemed to be hfted n-c^uhirly witli
the rise of the water. We had a tide-j^aui^e set up, and it
was observed every hour by Hartlett, Nindemann, and Lee.
As I remember, the greatest rise and fall was about tliree feet;
they were reguhir six hour tides. We were there near the
time of full moon, and the * vulgar estabhshment ' was properly
establishetl. At Cape l'2mma the captain got a set of e(iual
altitiules of the sun for chronometer error, but the weather
was g(Mierally misty and unfavorable for such work. A box
of geological specimens v/as obtained, and is now in my charge,
it having been recovered from the captain's caclu;, near the
moutii of the Lena. The doctor was very enthusiastic about
certain amethysts, opals, and petrifactions that he had ob-
tained ; these are probably lost.

"While on the island I observed that the sea to the south
and west was freer from ice than that to the eastward, and
that water clouds to the northwest were very common ; and
it occurred to n\e that in good seasons a vessel could reach
the island, which might form a good base for explorations
farther to the north.

"We left Bennett Lsland about August 4th. We were
then fifty-three days out from the place where the Jean-
nette had sunk. We were fortunate enough in being able
to launch our boats and to make better progress in the
cracks between the floes. But we still had to keep our sleds
for a short time longer. Some of the dogs rendered us very
important services; but about half the number were nov/
disabled by famine and weakness. We had forty originally,
but about sixteen had died, or had been killed by the others
during the two winters in the ice. After the stock of dog-
food gave out, and owing to the scarcity of game, there were
long periods of starvation for the poor brutes. Kach man
had a favorite animal, and would share his own rations with
him; but this was not sufficient. At Bennett Island we
still had, I think, twenty-three left, and the day before leav-
ing eleven of the poorest of these were shot. We took the
remaining twelve in the boats, but in passing close to bi^

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272

AiuMu: kxi'Lokaiion;;.

floc.-piccos these j^ave us .1 i^rcal deal of troiihle hy juMiitinn
out aiul niMiiiiu^ away. I'liially, I'riiuc anil Sium)/(| vvcrc
the only two that hail sense eiioiij^h to remain hy ns.

" l'\>r the next eiijhtetMi days we were working* 1m i\V( en
floe pieces, ami sometimes inakins^ as much as ten nnh ., a
day on our course to the southwest. Several times a d.iv we
wouKI hav<' to haul the l)oats out. anil make portages .k loss
the iarije lloc'-j)ieces that l)arreil our proL;ress. I his was
very severe work. We had at this time retained only thd
boat sleds, having left the provision sleds and all sup( ilhions
articles on a lliv piece ahout Auj^iisi ()th. We now worked
tluriui; the day ami slept during the nii;ht.

"At lU'nnett Island the doctor, who helon^^cd to my hoat,
had been transferred to the caj)tain's, and Mr. Melville was
placed in charj^c of mine — that is, the whale boat. I was
ordered to remain in tlu« boat as a passenj^ir, ami to assist
in emergencies. I always carried my own I'a^j^aL^c, and
assisted whenever possible. Dunbar was detailed wiih
Chipp.

*' Wo made very good progress until about August 201)1.
On that day the leads W(;re very open, and we ihout^iu we
were all right. The wind was Iri^sh and favorable ; tlu- I'lrst
cutter and whale-boat, which lollowed closely, passeil salely
through great quantities ol ice, but the second cutter was in
the rear, and became jammed by the lloe-pieces coming
together very suddenly, and Chipp had to haul out and
transport his boat about a mile in order to get her alloat
again. \n man)' cases a passage was obtained by pryino
the floe-pieces apart ; but several times these sprang hack.
thus cuttinir off tlie advance of the second cutter. Il was
very hard and slow work, but mucii better than dragging tiie
sleds over the ice.

"The delay caused by getting Chipp's boat afloat was very
fatal to us. for the wind shifted suddenly ami we were forced
to camp after waiting for him several hours. The ice jainincd
up during the night so that we had to remain there ten days
without being able to move. Then land came in sight, and
we seemed to be drifting along the north face of an island
which the captain at first thought was New Siberia, but it was
afterward found that we were drifting along the north coast
of Thaddeoifsky. We drifted along this coast until August
28th, when, at last, we were again able to make a move. We

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NAUUAIIVr, ()!• i.ii:tiii:NANr DANINIIoWKR.

27.1

call(*<l tin* |>la(<- the W'u Day ('.iini), I»iii w«- had usrd tin;
ilclav in makiii'L^ repairs, and tlw food had Ix'cn disfrihiitrd
p(;r<a|)ila ainoiii; lUc hoals,

"On the alt'Tnoon of die 2(}\\i we laniK-hcd tlw Ijoats av.ain
and W()rk<*d in the pack lor ahoiit two hours, when laitlnT
iiro'-^rcss was a'^ain hirn-d hy the ice. Tiiially, new con-
luntiii'-;^ |('a<ls wen* !( 11 nd, and we procc«'(|cd to the soiilh-
vanl and eastward lor about liv** lumrs. Then \v(r h.inK-d
lip for the nii^ht on a small pi<*ce of lloe i( c. which was <h'ift-
iii(r verv rapiilly to tin; sonthward and down th<' passa^^* l>e-
tvvccn N<'W Silx'ria and 'l'had<leolfsky.

"Ihe next mornini^ found us in navigable water, and with
land ahont seven miles distant to the westward. Then w<!
rounded the south point ol Thaddeoflsky. We found th(r
islainl to he composed of mud hills that wer*- wearing away
rapidly and lormini^ shoals off the kind. li<-yond the low
hills there was a wet, mossy timdra, ujxm whi( h we (am|)ed
lor the nij^ht. All hands w<re then sent out hiuuiniL,'. I<<in-
(Iccr tracks and traces wen; numerous, hut none were seen.
I^arllclt reported that he foimd fof)lprints in the sand made
hy a civiliz<'d hoot. I'hc steward found a hut about two
milrs westof the; camp, and a small pi<;c(; of black bn-ad, as
woll as a small tusk and a knee-piece for a boat, fasliioiu^d
from a de(!r horn. The next morninijf we proceeded w(;st
alonnr iIk! shore, th(; water beinu^ very shoal. We saw re-
mains of several huts and quantities of driftwood. We also
saw lots of ducks and wiltl fowl, and N(;vvcomb succeefl(;d
in ijettini;^ abc>ut six brace; of ducks, which were very w(dcome.
That nii^ht we tried to land, but after several ineffectual
efforts s^ave up the attemi^t, as the wat(;r was too shoal for our
boats.

"The followini; is a detailed description of tJie boats, with
lists of persons attach (;d to each :

"Firs} Cutter. — The Captains Boat. — Captain DeLon^, Ur.
Ambler, Mr. Collins, Nind(;mann, Krickson, Gortz, Noros,
Dressier, Iverson, Kaack, Boyd, Le(;, Ah Sam, Alexei.

"Extreme len<rth, 20 ft. 4 in. ; breadth, 6 ft. ; depth, 2 ft.
2 in., from top of ^unwalc; to the top of keel ; clinker built,
copper fastened, inside lininii^; drew 28 inches loaded, and
had the jo^reatest carrying capacity of the three ; fitted with
mast and one shiftinj^ lug sail ; pulls six oars, and was an
excellent sea-boat. She had a heavy cak keel-piece to
18

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274

AKCIIC KXri.oKAIlONS.

strcnj^tluMi luT in li.uillni,'^ over the itc, and it was niiiiu.,)
ali«'r !( ;u liinL; the water. Sli'- was fitirti will) weather « laws
al Semeiu>irski Island. Septeinher i i ih, by Nindemann.

"S ■(<>//,/ ()////•/: — Lieiiien.mt ('ln|)|), l)iinl'ar, Swecinin,,
Star, Warren. Knehne, Johnson. Sharvell,

" I'Atrenie len^'lh, id It. .^ in.; hreatllh, 5 ft. 1 in.: d' pih,
2 It. 6 in.. Iroin lo|) ol "Minwah- lo top of keel; clinkci- hnjlt
eoppiM lasieneil, a very l> id s<a l)()at ; she was careriilly lnicd

ilh weallu-r 4 laws ; had one dipping; K*.!^' sail and lour oai^
.Shi' had not siiHicienL carryiiiv^ capaeity lor Chipp's allow-
ance ol provisions, so tin; captain hail two extra tins ol
pennnican in his hoat when we separated. This is aii im-
portant laet. lor LieiitenanL Citipp nnisL have* run out ol lood
very <|niel\I\'.

•' ]l'/hi/(-ihhrf. — I'jii^ineer Melville, I>i<'utenant Danenliowcr,
Neweonil), Cole, I. each, Mansen, Wilson, liartlelt, l.audcr-
baek. Charles l\>nj4 Sini;, Ane(|uin.

" IvMreme length, 25 It. 4 in.; breadth, 5 ft. 6 in.; d(|)ih,
2 It. 2 in., IroMi top ol gunwale to t<>p ol keel; clinker htiilt,
copper (asteneil. tliawin^; about 24 inches when loaded, this
beiii" caused by tlu* heavy oak keel-piece, similar to those ol
the tirsi and si'conil cutters. ./lu^ luul one mast and one (lip-
pi'VU" '^\^ ^''^'l' «^'i^' ^^'^"^ lilleil with weather ckavs about Sc])-
tember 1 i th. The masti>r boatd)uilder at Mare Islanil told
mt! that she was one ol the best laslem^d boats that he had
ever seen, anti our e.\perienci; proved it ; for the racket she
stooil on the journey over the ice was almost incredible. The
plans of the boats I s^ot from Carpenter Swectman at Kolelnoi
Iskmd. September 4th, iSSi.

" Ihe cai)tain decided to work alonq; the shoal that lies be-
tween ThaiKleoffsky antl Kotelnoi Islands. Th< re was a
moderati' wind from the eastward, and the captain tried to
keep close in, in about four feet of water. The result was
that the llrst cutter was constantly Qroundiup-, and then
laboriously sjettin^ off auain. We continued on our course
to the southward, the captain's boat i^ettinc;- in breakers at one
time and calliniL^^ for our boat to pull him out. There was
not much ice at the time, and it was decreasinjif. One day,
about noon, we ran throuorh a liiu^ of drift ice, and the whale-
boat struck on a toncfue that was under water. She be<;an
to fill rapidly, and we had to haul her out, but not before she
was two-thirds full could we reach a suitable ice piece. The

NAKKATIVK OK I.FKUTrNANT DANKMloWKK.

27f)

,)\ii" li.ul \)rr\\ knockrd oiii, I)iit sln' h;ul Mi.laiind no oiln-r
ilaiii.i""'. I l)at altciiioon \v«' passed ihroiiidi a lar;.^r vvalrr
•|,.i(c sivcral s(|iiar<' miles in an-a, with a lieavy sea ninriiiif.
W'c WIT'" sleerini^ de.id Ixlore ili«; wind. Iiavini; !<» lollnw ii)
tlic w.xkr ol l\\r (aplain, and it. was very difficnit lo I<e«-|) lioui

jihinv..
".\I)()iit three p. m. the coxswain let her jihe, and sh«- wa'i

I)i()ii','lit l)y tlu" lee hy a h<'avy sea on the starhoard (|narter.
Till- sheet was not slac keil in linn', and th<' hoal was iiov<i
aliiio.t on lier port heain ends. A iieavy j.;re(n s<-a swejiL
over ihe whole port side and lllled her lo the thwarts; sh<;
s(;in<rcr<-d and connnenc ed to setlle, l»nl <very man with ;i
|),»|cr in hand <|ni('kly relieved h<-r, and siie lloan-d av.ain. I
was never lriL;hlen<'d iielore in a hoa!, ixit it was a nK)st
(laii'^crous and terrible sitnalion. There was no ( hanee lor
tin; captain or C'hi|>p to have assisted ns, and had another
sea hoanlcd us not a man of our parly would have been
s.ivcd.

"The vvc^ather was very cold. Two hours afterward wc
met tli(! ice, amoUL; which we made our way. Chij)p's hoat
was still astern and in the water-hoh-, and w(.' wen; very anx-
ious ahout his salety. Tin; captain hauled up ahout scvcmi
1'. M.. and camped with us. 'Vhr. next day the 'L;ale was still
l)l()\vinL,^ and Chipp's hoat still missin!^^ so ahout six i'. m. the
captain hoisted a iJack lla'^'.

"On tlu; lollowin'^day Iiarll(;tt reported that the ic(; was
closiiiL,^ aroimd us, and that it w(; did not mov(; we should Ix;
shut in. Two hours alt(;rward all outlets \v«r(; dosed.
Land was also in sii^ht at this time, Ikmul^ Kotelnoi Island.
I'jickson was the fnst to sec Chij)p's boat, and j)resently vvc
saw two men makini^^ their way over th(.* lloe and jumpinij
across tilt: obstructions. It was Chipp, with Kuehne. His
boat had been nearly swampc^d, and in a sinking: condition
he had reached a piece of ice anil manai^cd to haul up. .Star
was the only man with his boat at that time who could walk ;
the odiers required ten or fifteen minutes to j:jet uj) circula-
tion ill their benumbed limbs. The captain had previously
given written ordt.-rs that in case of separation each boat
should make the best of its way to Lena River, but he had
recommended touchino^ at Kotelnoi Island. Chij)p had for-
tunately decided to follow these instructions, because he had
not his allowance of food. We ourselves had been on half

1' '

t:^

I i

i.rt»

276

AK< lie i:xi'i,<tKAri(»NS.

ralions for some l'\mr. lie 1i;hI rtinaiiicd on the ici ,il,<mj
t\vciit\ -lour hours, and iIkii i^ot a clianc*' to jl,m'I iukIc i way
I It' toKl us lliat l)\ inalxini; a |)orla;^c ol about two mil. , \y^,
fonltl lauiuli our l»oats and l«:tili the land. I Ic scni jij , |,,,,„
to assist us. and alter six or t'\yj\t hours ol tirrihlc uciL wc
succcciicd in i^cttiuL; our lioat to the scioiid cutter. j hm
nii;ht we reat hetl the southeast corner ol Kotehu)i Ishind
ant! camped on a low cape extendini^ well out Iroin th<- niotm-
lain and lorniiuL; a Ix .mtilul hay.

" 'I'liis was Septeniher ()tli, I tluid<. W'e stayed there ahom
thirty-six hours. l.arL^e parties were sent out huntiiin, -^^
numerous de«'r trat ks IkuI !)<•( n seen. Next morninj^ uc not
under way aj^ain ami worketl aiouLi shore until ahout noon,
when wf had to make a loni; and laborious portaiL^e, (Iminir
whicii Mr. Punhar fell down exhausted and with i)alpiiati()n
of the heart. We continued until midnii^lu, and then (ainpcd
on a bleak, desolatt- sj)Ot. N<-xt morniuL;, Se|)teml)('r 7lli.\\c
sliaped a ( ourse lor the island ol .Stolbovoi Irom the south
point ol Kotelnoi. liltv-one miles distant to tlu; southwest.
We had Iresh brecv.es the Inst day, and ilurin^ the nii^lu not
into a vc^ry bad place and came vers n< ar bein^; smasjud up
by drill ice. We passed in si^ht of Stolbovoi ; but it was not
consideretl worth while to land on the barren island, which
was, besiiles. too distant.

"On the nioht of September 9th we hauled up on a piece
of ice off the north end of Semenoffski Island, ami there
slept. On September loth we rounded the north end of
this isUunl ami came down the west shore, stopi)ino to cook
dinner antl to examine the island. Ilavin<r seen the tracks
of deer j^oinL; toward the south end of the island, the captain
sugi^ested that a i)arty of hunters deploy across it, ami ad-
vance to the south in hopes of erettini,^ a deer. About ten of
us went. I went alono the beach with Kuehne and Johnson,
Bartlett, Noros, Collins, and the bulians skirtin*^ the hills.
We raised a doe and fawn runnini: to the northward as fast
as possible, they havino- pnrviously seen the boats. Several
siiots were fired, and the doe fell under Noros' last shot.
We hurled the body down a steep bluff to Chipp, who had it
butchered, and the captain ordered all served out, having pre-
viously given orders for all hands to camp.

" That evening the captain told Melville that he and many
of his party were badly used up, and must have rest and a

ii'ce
icre

ook
acks
plain

ad-

\n of

ison,

Ihills.

fast

/'cral
Ishot.
lad it

pre-

lany
Inda

(=J7)

278

ARCTIC EXPLORVIIONS.

full meal before proceedino^. All these days — for the past
twenty — we iiad been on very short allowance and luul never
had a full meal. Melville said that lie and his i)arty \v(re in
excellent condition and wanted to move on, anil did not like
losing time. The entire deer was served out and we had
orders to remain till Monday morning, or about thirty-six
hours. We had noticed that after two or three days of north-
east winds it generally finished up with a heavy gale from
that quarter, and it was thought we would be likely to (^ct it
on Monday or Tuesday. Tiiat evening Chipp came over and
asked me to go out with him and get some ptarmigan if pos-
sible. VVe came upon a large covey, but could not g(!t a shot.
This was my last talk with Ciiipp. He was in better health
than usual and was cheerful, but not altogether satisfied with
the outlook.

" On Monday morning, September 1 2th, we left SemcnolTski
Island, and stood to the soutinvard alon ;; the west side of the
island, lying to the south. About half-past eleven a. m. we
ran throu»di a lot of drift ice, following the first cutter. It
was pretty close work, and our boat had to Uiff through be-
tween two big cakes of ice. The sheet was hauled aft in
luffing, and the boat sided over against the lee-piece, thereby
knocking a hole in her starboard side. She filled rapidly,
and we barely succeeded in making fast her bow to an adja-
cent cake of ice ; there we put on a lead patch and remedied
die damage!. This was the last piece of ice that we saw.
While repairs were going on I had a chat with Collins, who
was as amiable as usual, and had some pleasant story to tell
me. The doctor was also very affable, and asked particularly
after my health and comfort.

" We then started on a sou thv/est course. The captain kept
his boat almost right before the wind ; it was very difficult to
keep from jibing, and as the whale-boat was the faster sailer
it was hard to keep in position. Our orders were to keep
astern of the captain, within easy hail, and for Chipp to brinj^
up the rear, he bemg second in command. The wind and
sea increased very rapidly, and about five i\ m. we were out
of position about nine hundred yards off the weather quarter
of the first cutter. Melville asked me if we could g(!t in po-
sition safely, and I told him that by jibing twice and lowerinij
the sail we could do so. He then told me to take charge : so I
jibed very carefully; ran down to the captain's wake and

NAKKAIIVE CF LIEUTENANT DANENHOWER.

279

then jibed her aijain, each time havlnij lowered the sail, and
luiviiiLj jL^otten out two oars u. keep up the headway before
the sea while sluftino- the sail. I then had seaman Leach put
at the helm, as he was the best helmsman in the boat. My
eyes would not permit my taking the helm or I would have
(lone so. We then rans^ed aloni; the weather side of the first
cutter, had our sail close reeftd, and to keep from rimninj;
away from her had to take it in, thereby allowinjLj the seas to
board us.

"About dusk the captain stood up in his boat and waved his
hands as if to separate. This is what the nu:n say ; I did
not see it. At the same time Chipp was said to be lowerino;
his sail. Melvilh; asked my advice, and I said we should steer
with the wind and sea four points to the north quarter; that
we could make good weather of it until dark, when we should
heave to on account of the liability to meet young ice in tlu;
darkness. In the meantime I advised that we should prepare
a good drag. He told me to go ahead and do it. So I
ordered Cole and Mansen to take three hickory t(;nt-poles,
each about eight feet in length, lash them in a triangle, and
lace a strong piece of cotton canvas across it, tli'in take the
boat's painter and make a span similar to the bellyband of a
kite, and to the middle of this span make fast th(-' luff tackle
fiill. On the lower end of each tent-pole the; re was a brass
nib which, with the wei<jht of the wet canvas and tin.- bioht
of the rope, would, I said, probably make the drag heavy
enoui^h ; if not, we would send down the spare fire-pot and
boat bucket to help it.

"The irale was now at its full force, and the seas were
running high and spiteful. Leach was steering admirably, but
we had to keen four balers eoin<>- all the time to i)rt:vent the
boat from filling and sinking. 'IT.i; drag, having been com-
pleted, was placed forward of the mast in readiness for use.
I had the drag rope coiled down clear for running. The men
were very weary. There were only two seamen in the boat
who would pull in a seaway, the others being inexperienced,
except the helmsman. I had been watching the seas for a long
time, and had noticed that tiiey ran in threes, and that there
was a short lull after the third and heaviest one. I had the
men detailed as follows : Wilson and Mansen at the oars,
keeping them peaked high above the sea. Cole at the hal-
yards 10 lower sail, Anequin and the steward to gather the

28o

AKCriC EXI'LORAIIONS.

ryiir (■■

^li

ill

:!l*

■'H ■ ■ '

sail, Bartlctt to launch the drai^, and Leach at the helm. ]
gave preparatory orders very carefuil)' — at the words Lower
away!' to put the helm iiard-a-str rboarti, lower sail and <riv(;
way with starboard oar, holding water with the port oaV, if
possible in the seaway.

" I watciied more than live minutes for my chance, for our
lives depended on tlie success of diat movement. At tlie
proper moment I shouted ' Lower away! ' and every man did
his duty; tiit; boat came round, gave a tremendous dive and
she was then safe, heatl to sea. We eased the oars and
launched the drag. It watched about three points on liic
port bow — so I sent down the spare fire-pot and a bucivct by
putdng loo[)s. or wiiat we call becKets, on the bales. Cole
suggested sending down a painted bag with the mouth open.
It filled with water, dragged, and was very effective*. We
then lay head to sea during the night. A number of tlie
party turned in under the canvas. Melville was exhausted
and had his legs badly swollen ; so he turned in abreast the
foremast, leaving me in charge.

" Leach and Wilson steered widi a paddle during the niij^ht,
and I sat at tiieir ixjet watching. The upper gudgeon of the
rudder had been carried away, so we took the ruiidcr on
board. Our fresh water had been ruined by the seas that
had boardc;d us, but late on the night before leavino- the isl-
and Newcomb had brought in several ptarmigan, which had
been dressed and put in our ketde, the other tents not caring
to take their share. This proved excellent food for us the
next day. as they were not too salt to be eaten.

"At daylight, SeptcMiiber 13th, there were no boats in sinjht,
and the gale was still raging. About 10 A. M. I noticed that
a new sea was making and the old sea was more abeam.
From this I judg(!cl that the wind had veered to the southeast
and would grow Ijohter. About noon the water bej^in to
tumble in very badly on the port quarter, and the boat was
down by the stern. We were thoroughly wet, and the sleep-
ing gear was so w^ater-soaked and swollen that it jammed be-
tween the thwarts and could not be shifted in trimminir. I
rigj: d the mackintosh on the port quarter, the stroke oars-
man holding one corner and I the odier for seven hours.
This kept a great deal of water out of the boat and acted
like a ' tarpaulin in the rigging ' to keep her head to sea. At
4.40 p. M., per log, I called Melville and told him that it was

NARRATIVE OK LIEUTENANT DANENIIOWER.

281

tim<' to get under way. The sea was very luavy, but was
fallinsT- '^"^^ '^y standins^ west at first we could gradually haul
up to south-southwest as the sea went down.

"We got under way without getting a sea aboard and stood
to the westward, and by 8 r. m. were able to haul up to south-
southwest, on which course; we stood during the night. The
second night was more coniforiable, but still we were all very
wet; but we were perfectly safe. 1 lay down for an hour
abreast the foremast while Melville relieved me, but could not
sleep, and soon returned to my old place.

"At 6 o'clock on the morning of the 14th I gav(; ord(M-s to
nri'iiare breakfasi, and a few minutes late«' we were surprised
by the boat taking ground in two feet of water. We backed
off, and I recommcMided standing to the eastward. I had
reckoned that when we rounded to we were about fifty miles
off Harkin, our destination ; that we had drifted at least fif-
teen miles to th<; southwest during the gah.', and that we had
run about twenty-five miles during the night, so that we were
on the shoals north of P)arkin. I said if wv. stood to the west
wc would have no show; but that if we went east until deep
water was reached, and tluMi stood due south to the; highlands
of the coast, we would find plenty of water and a good land-
ing-place. Melville was of course in command, but he relied
on my judgUKMit, as he did in all emergencies.

" bartlett thought he saw a low beach with logs upon it. I
told him to take anoth(.'r good look, and then he said he
thought he was mistaktMi. It was only a smooth i)atch of
water among the shoals. We noticed that the water was only
brackish, and that tlu-re was a thin skim of young Ice near
us. We stood to the eastward, occasionally feeling our way
south, but always touched the ground quickly when moving
in that direction. 1 noticed there was a very strong easterly
set here. The winds were light and southerly; we stood all
night about east-southeast, and early next mcr ling got nine
lathoins. I then recommended steering due south, but Mel-
ville wanted to go southwest, because that was the captain's
course; so I assented and shap(;d a southwest course, which
we continued to steer until the morning of Septemb(.'r 1 7th.
The winds were very light, and we often had to [)ull the boat.
I was at the coxswain's feet conning the boat.

"At daylight we got ten feet of water, and soon after saw
a low beach. We made two attempts to land through the

;

) ir V 51

t A \

i ''IE

282

ARCnC P:xrL01<ATI()NS.

breakers, but could not get within a mile of the shore. The
land trended north and south, and I said that we were evi-
dendy south of Barkin, and that if there was water enou'^h
we might fetch it that night from the souduvard, as vve had a
good breeze about east. With a view to linding :he captain
and Chipp we stood up the coast, hoping to reach Barkin be-
fore dark.

" Tlie condition of tiie part}- on this morning was very bad.
Leach and Lauderback were disabled with swollen legs, the
skin having broken in many places, and most of tin- others
were badly off. We had been in the boat ninety-six hours
and wet all the time. I had taken the precaution twice duriiv.
that time to pull off my moccasins, to wring out my stockings
and to rub my feet, in order to restore circulation. I advised
the others to do the same, but the most of them unfortunately
did not take the advice. I also beat die devil's tattoo almost
all the time to keep up the circulation ; so the next mornhv
I was the best man in the party on my feet.

"After going to the northward about thirty minutes we saw
two low points of swamp land, and it was evident tliat we
were at the mouth of a swamp river. We had a talk, and I
advised getting ashore as cjuickly as possible and drying our
things out. So we entered this river with a leadiner wind, the
current being very strong. We got as much as five fathoms
in the middle of the rivet , but it shoaled very rapidly on either
side of mid-channel. It was four or five miles wide, but we
could not get within a mile of either beach. I advised stand-
ing up the river until noon, and tiien to decide fully what we
should do. When that time arrived I said we were proi)ably
in a swamp river, about thirty or forty miles south of Barkin;
the wind was east, and if we turned back we would have to
beat out, but w^ould have the current in our favor; after
getting clear of the point we could run up the coast with a
fair wind. ' But.' I added, * if a gale comes on we will be in
the breakers.' Melville then decided to turn back and start
for Barkin.

"At tlis juncture Bardett spoke up and said that he believed
vve were in the east branch of the Lena. Melville referred to
me, and I said that it might be so, but that we should have
higher land on our port hand if that were the case. The
trend of the river corresponded pretty well with the coast
outlet, and if we could find an island about thirty miles up

NARRATIVE OF LIEUTENANT DANENHOWER.

283

stream* it would, doubtless, prove that we were in that place.
Bartlett said that he believed such a vast body of water could
not be a swamp river ; it was bigger than the Mississippi at
its mouth. I still held to my belief that it was a swamp river,
but said that it would be a good plan to try to make a landing
before night.

"So we stood up stream and were fortunate enough to
make a landing at seven i*. m., in what we found afterward the
Tunguses call an orasso, or summer hunting hut. We had
been 108 hours in the boat since leaving Semenoffski Island.
The men immediately built a fire in the hut, and gathered
round it before they had restored circulation by exercise. 1
knocked about outside and carried up my sleeping-bag before
supper, so my blood was in good circulation before I went
near the fire. We had a cup of tea and a morsel of pem-
mican, having been on quarter rations since we separated.
We went to sleep with our feet toward the fire, and several
of the men passed the night in agony, as if millions of
needles were piercing their limbs. Bartlett described it as
the worst night he ever past. I slept like a child and was
very much refreshed next morning. We found fish-bones,
reindeer-horns, and human foot-prints ; also a curiously
fashioned wooden reindeer with a boy mounted on his back.
We were very much delighted with our prospects of meeting
natives.

" Next morning we got under way about seven, steered up
the river about two hours, and then could proceed no farther.
Bartlett started out to reconnoitre, but when he was a
hundred yards distant I saw that he was limping ; so I ran
after him and sent him back, I went about half a mile and
saw several swamp-like rivers coming from the northwest ;
then went back to the boat and told Melville he had better
prepare tea while Mansen and I took a more extended scout.
We went farther, and Mansen used his eyes for me. I could
see some high land about two miles off, and I asked Mansen
to look well to see if he could get over to it, for I was sure
deep water lay alongside of it. He thought he could trice a
passage to it, all but in one small place ; so we returned with
that information. The land was about ten feet hUAi and cov-
ered with good deer-moss. We saw many deer-tracks, es-
pecially where they had come down to water at the river ; we
also saw another hut close bv on a small flat.

284

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

■!i!.

" We then went back to Melville, and soon after started
out with the boat. We had splendid luck ; we struck a pas-
sage and reached the deep water. We passed an island, and
I began to think that Bartlett was right. We proceeded at
least thirty miles that afternoon, and at dark we reached a
point about sixty feet high, where we expected th(; river to
turn due south. Here we pitched the tents and passed the
night.

"About four o'clock next morning Bartlett and I took a
scout. We saw two large rivers to the northwest, and a
broad river coming from the south. We thought we were at
the right turning-point, but were not sure. At six 1 called
Melville and the others and ordered tea cooked. The wind
was fresh from the west and blowing right on the beach.
We had breakfast, and then I took the well men and loaded
the boat. We struck the tents at the last moment and
assisted Melville and Leach into the boat, close-reefed the
sail, and made every preparation for getting the boat off the
lee shore. After some difficulty we succeeded in doing this,
and ran close-hauled on the starboard tack under close-
reefed sail, standing about south-southwest under the lee of
a mud-flat. I was at the helm, and Bartlett on the bows with
sounding-pole. We saw seven reindeer, but did not stop to
get at them. About eleven we saw two huts on the west
bank and in a good situation for landing ; so I recommended
that we should get ashore and dry out everything.

"It was Sunday, September i8th, and was the first real day
of rest that we had taken for a lonof time. We found two
very nice summer hunting dwellings, built with sloping sides
and shaped like the frustum of a pyramid, the sloping sides
forming the cover for the occupants, and the aperture at the
top being the chimney. This was what the Russians call a
polotka and the Tunguses an orasso. The sun was bright
and beautiful. We opened out everything to dry and passed
a delightful Sunday, being sure that rescue was not far off.
Newcomb made a good warm jacket out of his sleeping-bag.
We also wrote a notice to the effect that the whale-boat had
landed at this point, and stuck up a flag to mark the place
of the record. There were lots of fish bones in the hut,
some refuse fish, and a piece of black bread, all of which our
Indian ate with avidity. There were also frames for nets and
for drying fish.

wfPm

NARRATIVE OF LIEUTENANT DANENHOWER.

285

al day
I two
sides

sides
at tiie
call a
Dright
assed

-off.

-bag.
.t had

place

hut,

th our

[s and

"At eight \. M., on Monday, September 19th, we got under
way again and stood up the river. I was at the helm and
Hartlett on the bows, and the crew, divided into two watches
of four each, taking two-hour tricks at the oars. Melville
was in the stern sheets in command of the boat. We stood
south for two hours with light wind and oars. All was going
well, and we were in strong hopes of reaching a settlement
marked on the chart before night ; but we soon began to be
headed off by mud-flats and sand-banks. About one a. m. we
were more than a mile from the west bank, which we were
following because the village was marked as on that side.
We then saw a point of land, and I proposed to go ashore to
set up the prismatic compass and get some bearings, as well
as to prepare dinner.

"After two hours' work against a strong current we suc-
ceeded in reaching the shore, and the cook had set about
o-etting fire when, to our surprise and delight, we saw three
natives coming around the point in three dug-out canoes and
pulling with double paddles. We immediately manned our
boat and went to meet them, but they appeared shy and
stood to the southward. We lay on bur oars and held up
some pemmican, and, finally, a handsome youth of about
eighteen approached cautiously and took a piece. Then he
called his two companions and they also came to us. We
then induced them to go ashore with us to the old landing,
where we built a fire and commenced preparing tea. One of
the natives gave us a goose and a fish — all they had at the
time. Their boats were very neat and well fitted with
nets.

"I noticed that one of the strangers had a gray coat with a
velvet color, and when I pointed to it inquiringly he said
'Bulun.' Then I pointed to his knife, or bohaktah, as he called
it, and he also said ' Bulun.' From this I imagined that Bulun
was the name of the place where they had obtained them.
We had a very joyous time drinking tea and eating goose, for
we felt that we were safe. The natives showed us all their
hunting-gear, and we showed them the compass, the watch,
and our rifles, much to their delight.

"After eating they crossed themselves, shook hands, and
said 'Pashee bah! They also showed us their crosses, whi^h
they kissed ; and I was very glad to have in my possession a
certain talisman which had been sent to me by a Catholic

1 :i iiir

286

AUCIIC rxri.OKATlONS.

IViciul at San iM-ancisco, witii ihc incssai^c that it had hccn
Mrss.'il l>y the priest, and I woiihl br sure to he sale if I wop,
it. 1 did not liavc inurh laitii in ihis, hovvcxc r, hut I showed
it to tho nativrs, and tiicy kissed it (h-voiitly.

" It was the only arlieh^ in tlie possession of the p;n-i\, in,
(h'ed. that intliiMteil to the natives tliat \vt; were C'lii ishiiiis,
N'ou ean iinaL^iiu' onr technics at nieetiiiL; thes(^ peo|i|i', lor
they wvvc tile lirst strangers w lioni we had seen lor nioic tjian
twoye.irs; and I ncvtM- helore lell so thanklui to nussionanVs
as 1 ihd on that day at rMuhnj; that \\c. were ainonu; C'hn uiaii
natives.

" We indicateii to the thnv^ natives that we wanted lo slicp,
by niakin;^ si^^ns, ami restini^' the heail u|)on the hand aiul
;;norin!^. Thes- nnderslood us, and took us around the point
where wi! hail liauled our boats upon the sand beacii, ami tlieii
eliinbed a hill which was \vnn\ sixty to seventy Icet liiL;li.
This was at tlu! mouth of a small branch olihe Lena, aiul wc
have since learned this to i)e on Capi; Horchaya, saiil to be
about iMoJity-livi" miles noitlnvest of Cape Bykotfsky. 'I'hcrc
we found four houses and several stt. rehouses, all descried
but one, which was in very oo<><^l cond.iLion. There was a
oraveyard near by, with many crosses. Wc all lotl^x.'d in the
one house.

"Tiu? natives were very kind to us; they hauled tlieir nets
ami brouo'ht us tish. juirts of which they roasted before the
fire, i;ivino' us the most delicnti' morsels. Some of tin; fish
wc boiled, and alto^cth' r W(! had a very enjoyai)l(; iiual.
Then I noticed that Caranie (one of th(^ natives) had j^one
away, leaving- only the youth, whom w(> called lomat. and the
invalid, whom we calleil Theodore. I'"rt)m Carani(;'s absence
I aroucd that there must hr. other natives near by, and that
Caranie had i;onc to inform them of our presence.

" Next mornino-, while the men weri; loatlin^- tin; boat, I took
the compass aa<.l oot some bearinii^s of the sun for local time,
direction of the wind, and o-eneral lay of the land. Previous
to this 1 hail interviewttd Tomat, who dnnv a diagram on the
sand sliowinq; the course of tlu; river, and that tlu; distance to
Biilun was seveti sleeps, which he indicated by snoring; deeply
when he pointed to each stoppin;^ place. He appeared per-
fectly willino^ to i^o with us as pilot to Bulun.

" On my return, Melville asked me to hurry up, as h'' wanted
to get off. I was surprised, and asked where the other native

1. '

lets

lisll
cal.

the
•iicc
iat

lOok
me,

Ions
the
to

r'piy

|)er-

ted

ive

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(-«7)

288

AKC:iK- KXI'l.OKATIONS.

:-u3

w>i-

was. MclvilUr replied that lie had left, havinjj refused lo <ro
with us. 1 then asked him to wait a few tniiuites, while | mj^
back to the house in order to try and induce them to (om,.
Returnin*^, I found tlu- youth Tomat on the housetop, lookjixr
very sad and hewildend. When 1 asked him to arcoiiiitany
lis he re))lied, mournfully : * Sok ! Sok ! Sok!' which mcaiit
•No! No!' and then tried to explain somethini^ which I (ould
not understand, sayinj^: • Kornado,' which I only alurward
learned meant ' father.' I felt sorry for the youth, and nave
him a colored silk hanilkerchief and one or two litdc tiiinns
and then went back to Melville.

"We then started out on our own hook and tried to work
south (that is, towards Hulun) among the mud-flats; hut in
this we were not successful. At 5 r. m. we had a consulta-
tion, and 1 uri;('d thai we must decide at once wlu;ther lo re-
main out all night or go back. I recomnuMuled going hack
and forcing the natives to go with us. We had two Rcininu-
tons and a shot-gun, and I knew that it would be easy to
carry our point. Bartlett had been sounding from the how,
so I asked him if he knew llie way back. He said yes, and we
started to return. We did cjuite well until dark, but then the
wind shifted and began to blow a gale. It was a very bad
situation for a boat in such shallow water. We were for-
tunate enough, however, to get under the lee of a mud-bank,
where we secured the boat, with three tent-poles driven into
the mud and our line fast to them. Thus we rode all night.
It was very cold, and some of the men got their feet and legs
badly frostbitten. During the snow-squalls of the evening
before I had to give the helm to Leach, because my glass
would constantly get covered with snow and I could not see.

"At daylight I got Bartlett and Wilson to stand up in the
boat and take a good look at the land. Bartlett said he could
not recognize it, but Wilson was sure it was the place where
we had first met the natives. Bartlett said that if we could
weather a certain mud-flat we would have a fair way in ; so
we close-reefed, I took the helm, and went to windward of the
mud-flat. Then we ran in with a leading wind and landed.
Newcomb shot some sea-gulls, and we breakfasted on them
in order to save our few remaining pounds of pemmican.
Wilson insisted that in less than half an hour he could go to
the house where we had slept the night before. Most of us
laughed at him, but I told him and Mansen to go and see,

NAKU.vnvr. OK i.iK.uiKNAN r 1).\ni:mii»\vi;u.

2S9

whiK- I ^^-'^'^ tw*^ u\r.i\ to rccomioilrc in an opposite; dirc^ction.
Wilson and Mans<'n came back very soon. Wo were rcjoiccil
to learn that they had seen the house,

"We immediately recalled our scouts and (tmharked,
rounded tlu: point, and vver(. receivetl at the old place by the
natives in the most cordial manner. Tiiey w<Te lu;aded by
iinoliier native, an old man, wiio took oil his cap, and said
'Drasti! Drasti ! ' at the same time siiakini; iiands. lb; im-
ineciiat(;ly took possession of Melville, who was very lame,
ami iielpetl i'Mii up to the house. We unloaded tlu; boat, and
carri(;d up the sU;epinL,^-|L,^ear. Wiu;n th(; natives saw a cou|)le
of t^nills that we w(;re e,\p(;ctinL( lo feed on, th(;y thr(;w them
down in disij^ust, and immediately brouj^dit deer-meat to nt-
place them. Veo Wassili, for that was the old man's name,
proved to be ourorcat friend ; lu; willingly cons(;nted to pilot
us to Hulun, and measur(;d tin; boat's draui^ht, thus sh'Hvin_L(
that h(; was wide awake; and kn(;w what Ik; was about. This
old Tuntruse, Wassili, or Wassili Kool_<riak, or ' Cut-(;ared
Wassili,' in his styh; and beariuir always r(;minded me of the
late Commodore b\)\hall A. Parker. I b; was always diL,Miifi(;d
and kindly, and had a certain refinement of manner that was
very remarkable.

"We saw at once that Wassili was the man whom Caranie
had gone to brinsj^ to us, and that was why the youth would
not go with us until his father arrived.

" We took a crood rest, and were all ready to start next
morning with Wassili. Bartlett and myself asked to go ahead,
in order to send succor from Bulun and also to spread the
news about the two other boats ; but M(;lville preferred that
we should all keep together, foi he probably did not feel that
we were out of the scrape ourselves yet.

"On Wednesday morning, September 21st, Wassili, with
two other natives, started with us, and pursued the same
course that we had done on the previous forenoon to the
southward and eastward among the mud-flats. He went
ahead, and had his two men on the flanks constantly sound-
ing with their paddles. Their boats, or veatkas, are about
fifteen feet in length and twenty inches beam, modelled very
much like a paper race-boat, and provided with a double
paddle. The native faces the bow, pulling alternately with
the right and left hand, the fulcrum of the lever being an
imaginary point between the two hands. It is a very grace-

•9

I; 'i

k '

(! .

1 1 I'i

ago

AIUTIC F.Xri.OkATlONS.

ful and fasclnatiiijT movtMiicnt, and iIk- natives make iIuMr
boats skim alonj^- very rapiilly, soimdini; at each stroke ulicn
j^oinj^ in shoal water. Wassili loiind a channel amon<> the
mud-llats for our boats, whicli at this time drew about twenty-
six inches. We worked all day to the southward and < ast-
ward, and about eij^ht o'clock i*. m. hauled out on a flat Ixach
and camped lor the nij^ht, Wassili jjivinj^ us fish for supper.
The weather was v('ry cold and raw, with a strong- hicczo
blowintr, and our pilot was very anxious about the stale of
the river, fearinj^ thcit we wouKI be stop[)ed by younj; lee at
any moment.

"The next morninj^ the banks were frinj^t^d with younj; ice,
but this v/e broke our way throuijh and continued our (ourse
up the river. After the sun came out, the ice melted, and
we worked all day through a labyrinth of small streams.
passinj^ several huntinj^-lodoes. At ni<;ht we slept in two
liouses on shore, and next morninj^ we entered a larjje hotly
of water which we thought was the main river. About noon
we reached a point of land on which there was a deserted
village of about six well-built houses and a number of store-
houses. Wassili took us to a house and told us to couchc, or
eat. I noticed that one of the natives went away in his
canoe. I then look a look at the villaofe. The houses were
in good repair, and there were numerous troughs for feeding'
doers, and cookinir utensils in them. The doors were not
locked, but those of the storehouses were well secured with
heavy iron padlocks of peculiar shape.

" Things looked more promising now, and I felt sure that
the winter occupants of these houses could not be far off.
During this resting spell I examined Leach's and Lauder-
back's feet and limbs. Leach's toes had turned black, and
Lauderback's legs were in a fearful condition, being gready
swollen and having large patches of skin broken. We
dressed them as well as we could with some pain-extractor
that I happened to have along, and when that gave out we
used grease from the boat-box.

"In about an hour a boat appeared in sight, and a number
of people disembarked and entered a house near us. A few
minutes later, Wassili came and asked Melville and me to go
with him. He conducted us to the house, where we shook
hands with an old native named Spiridon, who had two very
hard-looking women with him, each of whom had lost the

NAKRAilVK OK l.IKU TKNANT DANKNIlDWKk.

!9I

left ey<'- They served tea to us, how<!ver, in china cups;
also Lj'WC us some! nnndeer tallow, which they consiih^nid a
(rn-'Ut delicacy. S|)iridon looked to me like a n-i^ular old
iiiratt;, and then* was an air of myst(;ry about tht! |)lace that
made ine tell Midvilh; I thouiLjht Spiridon was an old rascal,
and that I was afraid to trust him. 1 le tjave us a larjj^e
fToosc, however, that was dressed anti stuffed with s(;ven
other ^eese, all boned, and tiiis he said we must not (*at
until sleepinir-time on the followinnr day. 1 le also said that
wc would leave next mornint;;. Ncwcoinb liad seen a num-
ber of ptarmiii^an llyinLj about the disserted houses, and had
baL;j,H:d a few of thesir beautiful birds, which were in their
wliitc winter pluma^re, feath(;r(!»l from bt,'ak to toe.

"Then we started with a new |)ilot (Kapucan), a younij
man who lived with Spiridon. Old Wassili was quite (ex-
hausted, and he showed us his left (dbow, where he had a
severe gunshot wound, not yet hc-aled. Caranie and Theo-
dore still accompanied us, and the formi-r proved to b(,' a
better pilot than the latter. We worktnl wvsy har-i l\v.it day
until eight p. m., the men pulling all the time in one-Iiour
tricks. I had the helm and Hartlett th{! sounding-poles. We
camped for the night in a palotka, antl wh.en we got under
way again the next morning only four of us were able to load
the boat and g(;t her off the beach.

"During the previous three days Leach and Lauderback
had been working manfully at the oars whenever their turn
came, although their limbs were in such a condition that tiiey
could not stand, and they had to b(i assisted to and from the
boat. Melville and Bartlett were in a similar condition.

"About noon we reached the village of Geemovialocke
(which we afterwards found to be on Cape Bykoffsky), where
we were received cordially by about twelve men, women and
children. Melville and I were taken to the house of a certain
Nicolai Shagra, who was the chief.

"A few minutes later in dashed a slight young man whom
we at once saw was a Russian, and I thought he was a
Cossack. His name was Efim Kopiloff, a Russian exile who
lived in this village, and he proved very useful to us later on.
At this time he could say ' Bravo ! ' which he thought meant
good, and that was the only word we had in common ; but in
less than two weeks he taught me so much Russian that 1
could make myself fully understood to him in a mixture of

I ^i

-!V?i

■ h ■ '

I'll

■ !il

1 ;i

9B''

292

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

Russian and Tunguse. We stayed at Nicolai's all nifrht, and
his wife gave us a fish supper, which we enjoyed iicartily
We described as well as we could that three boats had been
dispersed in a gale, and that we did not know where tlie other
two boats were ; also that we wanted to go to Bulun, which
place he told us was fifteen days off.

" I need now to give you some explanation why we were at
Cap*^ Bykoffsky, so far out of our course to Bulun. Olu
Wassili, we understood at the time, was bound first of all to
deliver us to the care of his chief, Nicolai Shagra, and with
him we eventually found ourselves. The reason why they
did not take us to Bulun, as they promised, is not very dear,
even to me. It was a very unfortunate time in the season.
Young ice was making during the night and breaking up
and thawing di'.riug the day. It was the transition period
between navigation and sledding. Nicolai Shagra told us it
would take fifteen days to reach Bulun, but I think that he
meant that a delay of fifteen days would be necessary before
we started — that is, to await the freezing of the river. The
next morning it was stormy, and he told us that we could
not go ; but about nine o'clock he came in and began to
rush us off, as if he really intended to send us to Bulun.
He put sixty fish in our boat, and made signs for us to hurry
up knd embark. We did so, and he, with three others, went
ahead to pilot us through the mud-flats. Efim was in the
boat with us.

"We worked up the river for about two hours, constantly
getting aground, and, in the teeth of a fresh breeze, were
making very slow progress. Before the village was out of
sight, however, the pilots turned around and waved us back.
We up helm and v/ent back to the village, where they had a
sled ready to carry Melville back to the house. About four
of us secured the boat, but Nicolai insisted on hauling her
up, for he made signs that she would be smashed by die young
ice if we did not do so. The natives then assisted us, and
we hauled her high and dry up on the beach. The condition
of the men that day was such that I was not sorry that we
had turned back, because they were not up to a fifteen days'
journey as represented by the natives. We were then taken
to the house of a certain Gabrillo Pashin, where we remained
all night.

" Next morning Efim and Gabrillo came to me and made

NARRATIVE OF LIEUTENANT DANENHoWER.

593

sicrns that they wished me to go with them. They took me
to an empty house at the end of tlie village, where I found
some old women engaged in cleaning up. They indicated
that they wished us to occupy it ; so I had it cleaned out and
moved the whole party into it about noon. Melville mustered
the party and told them that he and I were afraid that
scurvy had appeared among us, that we must keep the house
and ourselves very clean, keep cheerful, and we could prob-
ably get along very well until proper food arrived. He also
tokl them that I should take charge of everything during his
sickness.

" The next morning all hands except Jack Cole, the Indian,
and myself, were in a very bad condition, and we were the
only persons who were able to get wood and water. Wilson
was able to hobble about the house and prepare fish, of which
we were given eight per day — four in the morning and four
in the evening. Yaphem lived with us ; so that made twelve
men with four fish, weighing about ten pounds, for breakfast,
and the same amount for supper. We had no salt, but we
had a little tea left. After a few days the natives gave us
some decayed wild geese for a midday meal ; they were 'pretty
high,' as an Englishman would call them, but we managed to
stomach them, for we were capable of eating almost anything.
Efim also gave us some goose eggs.

" Thus we lived for about a week. Then came an orasnik,
or native feast-day, during which Efim took some of us out
to make calls, when the natives presented us with fifteen
other geese of a similar high character as the others. But
our party improved in condition day by day ; one by one re-
ported himself as fit for duty, and in about a week's time Mel-
ville, too, was well enough to reassume charge informally.
The natives were orenerous to us. I am not sure what their
resources in fish were at the time, but I know they were not
catching too many. One day I hauled the nets with Andruski
Burgowansky ; we drew seven nets and got only eleven
hulook — a splendid fish, one of which he gave me as a present.
There was a little deer-meat in the village at the time, but we
were unable to get any.

"One day we were surprised by the arrival of a Russian at
the village. I have forgotten to tell you that on the night
after we got back the young ice formed on the river, and that
sledding commenced in our vicinity about a week later. This

v'm

li'

• I*

■f ..'

294

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

Russian was brought to our house, and I acted as interpreter
as well as I could. Learning that he hved only nine or ten
versts away, I asked him to take me home with him, as I
wished to talk with him about our future movemeius and to
learn the best route for gctung to Bulun. To this he willino-ly
consented, and at two in the alternocn wc drove over to his
house. With him and his wife, a Yakut woman, I spent the
evening, and here I learned some news from the great world
from which we had been so long absent. He told me that the
Czar had been assassinated, that the Lena was still in the
river, that Sibiriakoff was running some steamboats, and also
that Austria and Prussia had been at war. He spoke ot
Count Bismarck, of Generals Skobeleff and Gourko, and the
Turkish war, and of a great many other things besides. His
wife presented me with some tobacco, about five pounds of
salt, a small bag of rye flour, some sugar, and two bricks of
tea. And here let me say that the native women were always
very kind, in spite of their ugliness.

" Next morning Kusmah Eremoff — for that was the name
of this Russian exile — took me to the door and showed me a
fine little reindeer which he had bought for us, and asked if
it suited mr. I told him it would be very welcome, and so it
was immediately slaughtered. We had tea for breakfast, with
fish and fish pates which tho good woman had made especially
for me; and just before I left Kusmah promised that on the
following Sunday he would take me tj Bulun with deer-
teams. I asked him who else would go, and he said two
other Russians. \ asked how many Tunguses, and he said
there would be none because they were bad ; and on ail oc-
casions he tried to indicate that there was somethinij wron«'
with the Tunguses. I asked him to come over the following
Wednesday to consult with Melville, and then I reUirned
home with the provender. Our people were delighted with
the change of diet. The deer, when dressed, weighed ninety-
three pounds.

"On Wednesday Kusmah came over as he had promised
Melville. We took him down to the boat and had it turned
over for his inspection. We then retired to an empty house,
where Melville, Kusmah and I had a consultation. Kusmah
said he could go to Bulun and return in five days. When
asked if he could go quicker with or without me or Melville,
he indicated that it made no difference. Melville decided that

ife'v-

(295)

i 't

■

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■'!';

;i -A

I ■■!

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i '':■

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296

ARCTIC EXPLOUATIONS.

Kusmah had better go alone. Kiismah acquicscotl, but on
the foUowiiiiT Friday we were surprised to It^arn that he was
goiiiL; to take Nicolai Shagra with him. I have not nun-
tioned tliat the second day after our return lo tlie vilhu-o,
Nicolai came to us and wanted a written paper from us, whrdi
he promised lo forward to Bulun at the earhest ot)portuiiity.
I wrote a paper in luighsh and French, which Wilson put into
Swedish, and Lauderljack into (ierman ; and all fourwrsions
of this document, together with a picture of the siiip ami a
drawing of the American Hag, were sewed up in oil-skin and
given to Nicolai, who handed them to his wifi.-, and that i^ood
woman put them into her cupboard lor safe-keeping. They
were never forwarded. Subse(iuently Melville and 1 pic-
pared despatches for the Minister at St. l*etersburg, lor tiic
.Secretary of the Navy, and for Mr. James Gordon Bcnm^tt;
l)ut Melville sent nothing by Kusmah.

"The day after we arrived it was decitled that I sJiouM iro
to Bulun, as I was in the best physical contlition and the most
available person, luir more than two weeks my projected
trip was talked about by us and by the men. I was to hrincr
back food and decM" sUhIs for the whole party, and also to
take the desj^atches whicii we had prepared. After my re-
turn from Kusmah's house, however, Melville decided di;it
Kusmah should go alone, and as he promised to be back in
five days he decided not to send any despatches by him. but
to take them himself. He seemed to think that Kusmah ()uo;ht
to .get there and back cpiicker if he went alone, and was
very much disappointed when he learned that Nicolai Siiagra
went with him.

" This man Kusmah was a robber, who had been exiled
there and was dependent upon the natives in a great measure.
He could not leave his home without official permission ; but
he took the responsibility in this emergency, and evidendy had
to have somebody to back him and to assist him as a witness,
and he therefore, very naturally, took with him the chief
of the natives, though he first proposed to take me. Me
said that it made no difference in time if one should accom
pany him.

"The next morning I told Melville that before Kusmah left
he should be particularly enjoined to spread the news of the
two missing boats among the natives everywhere he went,
and I said I would like to run over to his house to give him

NAKKATIVl-: OF LIKUTF.NANT DANKNIIOWER.

297

, but oil

lu> was
ot mcn-

vilhii)e,
IS, which
ortunity.

put into
v^Tsioiis
p aiul a
-ikiu and
lial >^(K)d
I. Thoy
(\ 1 \)r(]'
^ tor tlie
Hcmu'.tt;

houhl _o;o
the most
projected
to l)ring
d also to
;r my re-
ed that
back in
lim. but
ah ought
and was
Shagra

tn exiled
measure,
ion ; but
MUly had
witness,
ic chief
^ic. Me
acconi-

Imah left
rs of the
he went,
Hve him

tlijse orders. Midville consented. I went down to Nicolai
Shagra's to ^^at a doi; team, and wbile there Spiridon hove
in siglil with a line: team ol nine doq;s. 1 immediately took
possession of liim and bis team, anil drove over to Kusmab's
house, where I had a lonj^ interview, diirin^Lj which I went
over the charts with him ai^ain. On this occasion lie told
me positively that Harkin was only lifty versts northeast of
his house, and I immediately determined to <;o there to seek
for traces of the missing boats. I w(;nt l)ack to Melville
and told him what 1 wanted to do. I b; did not assent to the
proposal at first, but finally a<^n-e(;d. Whih; at Kusmab's I
wrote a line to my brother in Washini^^ton, and ^^ave it to
Kusmah to mail at Bulun. My eye would not permit writing;
much.

"I took my rifle and sleepin^-ba^-, put them on Sf)iridon'R
sled, and pointed toward his village. Me seemed very much
astonished, but finally obeyed, and starteil homeward. On
reachini;- his house I had a consnlialion with him and Caranie,
and tried to get them to consent to take me to liarkin next
morniuL^. Hut they said that the hoos-byi'al — that is, posh-ice
— would prevent them from .uoiiiLj^, and that it was impossi-
ble to go there at that timi; of the year. We then iiad sup-
per, after which I huntetl iij) old Cut-eared Wassili, and he
consented to take \\\v to Kahoomah, which Kajnican said was
to the northwest of us. If I could not go to Harkin, I was
ol?d at any rate to go to the northwest to search in that
quarter and to spread tlui news.

"The next morning Wassili, Kapucan, and I started with
twelve dogs for Kahoomah. We first went down a little
river to the southeast, and the young ice broke in many
places, letting the dogs and sled into the shallow water. I
was surprised at the southeast course, for Kapucan had told
me that Kahoomah was to the northwest. After thinking a
few moments I concluded that Kahoomah must be the Tun-
guse name for Kusmah, and that surmise proved to be cor-
rect. They took me back to Kusmab's bouse, where they
had another talk, and tlien agreed to try to take me to
Harkin. I set up the compass, and Kusmah pointed to the
northeast, saying that Barkin was only fifty versts distant in
that direction, but that we would have to iro first to the south-
east and then swing round to the northward.

" We had ti> wait all night for another sled from our village.

298

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

i I

; 1

i ■fliiii

,if ■ i ■ !'

I ■ ': i.: ^''

It came next morning, and then we started to the southeast.
About eleven o'clock we came to a big river riinninn- north,
and I noticed that old Wassili looked up the stream very
anxiously and thoughtfully. I set up the compass, and whcMi
the needle came to rest the natives sung out with dtilioht and
surprise, 'Tahrahoo,' and pointed toward the south vnd of the
needle. I insisted, however, on going north, but the old iii^n
said it was impossible, on account of boos-byt'al or posh-ice.
I then decided to let him follow his intentions and see what
they were.

"About 4 p. M., after having travelled over a region cov-
ered with driftwood, we reached a small hut situated near a
bold headland, and the island that they call Tahrahoo was
about three miles off shore. They said they would take nic
there the next morning. At this time another sled hove in
sight; it was driven by an oA man named Dimitrius, who had
been sent after us by Kusmah, with a kettle and a tt.a-pot for
me. Wassili and I went upon the hill about sunset, and had
a good view of the river and the adjacent island. He indi-
cated that the steamer Lena had entered there, and that there
might be some signs of boats on the adjacent islands; but I
told him that I wanted to go round the headland and to the
northward. But both old men insisted that this would be
impossible.,

" The next morning, to satisfy me, they started toward the
island, the two old men and myself going in advance, to test
the young ice. About a mile offshore the ice was black and
treacherous, and so unsafe that the old men refused to go
any farther. So we had to turn back and return from a fruit-
less search. It demonstrated, however, that what the natives
said was true — that the ice was not strong enough for travel-
ling. The second night we slept at Kusmah's, and then re-
turned to Geemovialocke.

"At the end of five days Kusmah had not returned, and it
waj not until October 29th that he put in an appearance,
after an absence of thirteen days. On his way back, at Ku-
mak Surka, he had, however, met with the two men of the
captain's party, Noros and Nindemann, who had written a
brief statement about the condition of the captain's party.
They gave it to Kusmah, and he hastened to bring it to us.
He told us that the men were to have reached Bulun the
previous day (October 28th) ; so Melville immediately

NARRATIVE OF LIEUTENANT DANENIIOVVER.

299

started with old Wassili and dog teams, to find the men and
learn the position of the captain's party and carry food to
them. He gave me orders, which he afterward put in writing,
to take charge of the party and get it to Bulun as soon as
possible.

"On November ist, the Bulun commandant, a Cossack,
named Gregory Miketereff Baishoff, came to us widi a good
supply of bread, deer-meat, and tea. He handed me a long
(locuinent addressed to the American Minister at St. Peters-
burg, and signed by Noros and Nindemann. It contained
some details of the captain's position, but was not definite
enough to allow me to start immediately to their relief Be-
sides, I knew that Kumak Surka was nearer to Bulun than
to us, and that Melville, after seeing the men, could get to the
captain much quicker than we could ; so I immediately de-
spatched the document to Melville, by special courier James
H. Bartlett, fireman, vho was the best man of the party at
that time. The commandant at the same time had tiie fore-.
sight to appoint a rendezvous at which he and I should meet
Melville on his vvay north. H^ also sent a letter to a subor-
dinate, ordering him to equip Melville for the journey. This
man was a non-commissioned officer of Cossacks, and he
acted with great intelligence and good judgment. He was
a tall, fine-looking man, with black side whiskers, forty-two
years of age.

"Bartlett started that night with a deer team, and was likely
to get to Bulun only a few hours after Melville, because the
latter had taken the dog road, which was 240 versts long,
while the deer road was only eighty versts across country.
The commandant had come by the deer ruad, thus missing
Melville. I told the commandant that he must get us to
Bulun as soon as possible, but he was rather non-committal,
and would not state a definite time for starting.

"That night I slept uneasily and was awake by four o'clock
next morning. Efim was up, and I asked him where he was
jjoing. He 2»aid that he was going with the commandant to
Arrhue, the village where Spiridon and Wassili lived. I
told him to tell the commandant to come to me immedi-
ately. I thought I would try a high-handed game with this
Cossack commandant, and it worked admirably. He came
to me about five a. m., in uniform, and I told him that if he
did not get us clothed and started by daylight next morning

300

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

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I would report him to General Tchernieff and have him
punished ; but that if he did well and got us ready he would
be handsomely rewarded. He accepted the situation t^ravely
and said ' Karasclio,' which meant 'all right.' I invited him
to sleep with us the next night ; and the next morniiicr^ ac
daylight, fourteen dog teams, with about two hundred dotrs,
were assembled at our village, and the natives brought us
an ample supply of skin dlothing. This was Thursday, No-
vember 3d.

"We started for Bulun, and on Saturday met Melville at
Kumak Surka Serai, which is the first deer station. I had a
long consultation with him, and he told me that there was no
possible hope for the captain's party, but that he and the two
natives were going to the spot where Noros and Nindemann
had left him, and also to the Arctic Ocean to look for relics.
He told me, further, that he had left written orders at Bulun
for me to proceed to Yakutsk with the whole party. I will
here state that his orders to me were given by virtue of a
written order from Lieutenant DeLong which placed him [w
command of my boat, and all persons embarked in the boat
were made subject to Melville's orders and directions. This
I knew to be unlawful ; but, as the captain was the highest
naval authority at the time, I had nothing to do but to obey.
And so I had accepted duty under Melville from the time of
the separation, because I considered that it was my duty,
under the circumstances, to do so.

"We arrived at Bulun on Sunday, and the commandant in-
formed me that we must remain until the following Saturday.
I found written orders from Melville telling me to proceed to
Yakutsk with the whole party as soon as possible, and there
await his arrival ; but he told me verbally at Kumak Surka
Serai to leave Bartlett at Bulun.

"As transportation farther south could be provided for only
six of the party, I took the five weakest men and started for
Verkhoyansk, leaving the other six to follow when Melville
should return. I left written orders with Bartlett to start a
search party out for Melville in case he did not return by
November 20th. The resources of Bulun were very limited,
it being only a village of about twenty houses ; and our pres-
ence there made fearful inroads on their winter stock. We
travelled by deer sled to Verkhoyansk, a distance of 900
versts. Thence to Yakutsk by means of deer, oxen and

NARRATIVE OF LIEUTENANT DANENHOWER.

301

horses, a distance of 960 versts, reaching the latter place De-
cember 17th, 1881, where we were well taken care of by Gen-
eral Tchernieff, the governor. About December 30th Mel-
ville arrived at Yakutsk, and soon afterward the other six
men came on. On New Year's day the thirteen survivors of
the Jeannette were all present at Yakutsk. The most of us
were in good condition, but my left eye was completely dis-
abled, and the right one was suffering by sympathy. One
man was insane and had to be kept under restraint, and Leach
was disabled slightly with frozen feet.

"Melville started north from Yakutsk January 27th, taking
with him Bartlett and Nindemann — Nindemann because he
was one of the men who had last seen the captain, and Bart-
lett because he had picked up a little Russian and could get
along first rate with the natives. Most of the men would
have been worse than useless, because they could not have
made themselves understood, and would have had to be
waited on by the natives.

"At Yakutsk Melville received the first despatch from the
Secretary of the Navy, which ordered him to send the sick
and frozen to a milder climate. So he ordered mc to pro-
ceed with the whole party to Irkutsk, and thence to the At-
lantic seaboard. At Irkutsk I received despatches from the
department ordering me to remain and continue the search,
but I was quite unable to do so. After the long excitement
of our life in the north my eyes began to trouble me more
and more, and having got cold in them during the sledge
journey from Yakutsk to Irkutsk, I was compelled to seek
professional advice. The two oculists whom I consulted told
me that my left eye was ruined and should be taken out to
prevent the right one from being constantly affected ; that I
should not read or write, and should not leave here until the
right eye was in a better condition. The reports of the ocu-
lists about my right eye were at first very encouraging, and
that was why I proposed to the department to charter the
steamer Lena, in order to make a spring search for Chipp. I
also asked foi* two officers to be sent to assist, thinking that
if my right ey a broke down there would then be somebody
here to take my place.

" Melville told me every detail of his trip of twenty-three
days from Bulun. He says he has traced the captain's party
as far as a summer hunting station called Sisteranek, on the

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302

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

west bank of the Lena, and that the party must be some-
where between that station and Bulcour, neither of which
places is marked on the ordinary map. They had been two
days without food when Noros and Nindemann left iluin,
and the region is devoid of game and inhabitants. Tlu.' men
had insufficient clothing, and there is no reasonable hope.

•' I think Chipp's boat swamped during the gale, for she
nearly did so on a previous occasion, and was a very bad sea
boat. If he succeeded in reaching the coast he had less food
than the other boats, and his chances of life were therefore
worse than the captain's party. If his boat swamped she
would probably con^e to the surface after the bodies floated
out ; she had not sufficient weight in her to keep her down.
The specific gravity of pemmican is nearly that of water,
and we found that some of the canisters, which probably con-
tained air space, would actually float. The sleepino-bajTs,
when water soaked, would be the heaviest weight in tiie boat,
and these were probably thrown overboard in the gale. The
northeafit winds continued two days after the gale, and Chipp's
boat may have drifted ashore near the mouth of the Olenek,
if not carried to the northeast as the driftwood seems to be
—that is, to the New Siberian Islands."

CHAPTER XVIII.

RELIEF EXPEDITIONS FOR THE JEANNETTE.

First Cniise of the Corwin, 1880 — Search for missing Whalers and the Jeannettc — Kings
Island — Wrangell and Herald Land in Sight — Second Cruise of tlie Corwin, 1881 —
Plover Bay — Exploring Wrangell Land — Search-Expedition of the Rodgers — The Ship
Burned— Expedition of the United States Steamer Alliance to Hammerfest and Spitz-
bergen — No Tidings of the Jeannette.

When the North Pacific whaHng fleet of 1879 had returned
from their cruise later than usual, without bringing any word
of the Jeannette, and it was further learned that two of their
number, the Mount Wollaston and the Vigilant, had not been
seen later than October loth, and then in the same region
where the Jeannette had been last seen, much anxiety began
to be felt for the ships. In the following month of May the
Revenue Steamer Corwin, Captain C. L. Hooper, was
ordered to proceed from San Francisco on a cruise in the
waters of Alaska, and to afford assistance to the ships if they
should be fallen in with. The Corwin arrived at Ounalaska
after a rough passage of twelve days, sailing from which port
June 8th, and touching at St. Paul's, lat. 57° 5', long. 169° 51',
she shaped her course for Cape Romanzoff, and at daylight
of the nth first struck the ice north of Kounivak Island, lat.
60° N., long. 160° W. The heavy pitching and grinding
along the edge of the pack made it unsafe to attempt to force
the way, and the Corwin anchored in a fair harbor until the
going down of the gale on the 13th. After working about
twenty miles through leads, picked out from time to time, on
the 15th Captain Hooper found himself utterly helpless,
drifting with the pack southward and eastward about two
miles per hour. At 8 a. m. he was in only five fathoms of
water among grounded ice, which gave the vessel sharp nips,
trying her strength. At one time the Corwin was lifted up
bodily several feet, and held suspended for some minutes ;
coming in contact with one, " stern on,' the rudder was forced
over, the screw steering gear carried away, and the wheel

(303)

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304

ARCTIC EXrLORA'nONS.

chains partcil. Happily tlic rudder stock, which was of the
best Oregon oak, stood the strain, althoujrh lor a lime it
seemed as if nothin*^ could save it. On the 16th th(; ship
continued to drift hclph'ssly all day.

On the 17th a sharp northeast *;ale brok(! up the ur and
started it off shore, allowing; the Corwin to proceed low aids
Norton Sound and St. Michael's, where she was again de-
tained se'veral days.

,„<|fi^:-^ -j^*^'

ir.

IN A "LEAD" IN AN ARCTIC ICEFIELD.

iil'': ■ - '|!

On the 28th the Corwin entered the Arctic Sea ; on the
30th she made two whalers, one of which had communicated
wiJ;h the natives at Point Hope, but could learn no L;ood
tidino^s there. Followincr the ice-pack around from Cape
Serdze Kamen, she le*arned from the natives and whalers
without exception that in their opinion nothingr would ever be
heard of the Mount Wollaston or the Vicrilant. They were
reported as last seen by Captain Bauldry of the Helen Mar

RKLIKK KXTKUirioNS KOR TIIK JKANNK riK.

305

of New Bedford, forty mil(;s south(uist of I I<Tald Island, with
clear water at tlv; time to the northward, in which dirt^ction
they were steerin,L,^

Diirinj^ liis cruise; in the; Arctic Ocean, Captain I looper
visited Kin<;s Island, Capes I'riiu-e of Walcrs, l^spenber^^ and
Lisburne; saw Herald Island and VVrani^cll Land from a
(listanr(\ and after expcTiencinn; many trials and hardships
rctiinu'il to San I'Vancisco. Here the Corwin was <^n(;atly
str(MiL;th<'ned and fitted out for another cruise in the Arctic
Oc'-aii.

On the 4th day of May, 1881, the Corwin set out on her
sccoml cruise, and after a stormy voyaj^^e arrived at Ouna-
laslca on the iSth. Sailin*;- from Ounalaska May 2 2(1, the
ship reached St. Paul's the day following;, findint^ then; as at
Ounalaska that the i)rec(:dini; winter had been mild and the
snow li.t:^ht. The thermomt^ter had but once rej^isten^d below
zero. On the 24th, in lat. 58° 43' N., lon.t,r. 171° 26' I-:., the
temperature of the water fell to 32°, and ice was sighted from
the deck. On the 27th she was at die moudi of Anadir Gulf,
the wind blowing hard from the northward with a short heavy
se^ running; the course was shaped for St. Lawrence Islancl,
Wi.ich was found covered with snow and almost surrounded
by ice. As soon as the vessel was made fast, a general rush
was made for the shore, each trying to be the first to land.
The rim of ice was probably one thousand feet in width, and
full of hollows and hummocks, but after many falls, with some
narrow escapes from going into the deep crevices which run
through it in various directions, the shore was reached, and a
general scramble up the almost perpendicular rocks followed.
While this was being done, Professor Muir, an experienced
mountaineer, came over the ice with an axe in his hand, and
reaching the island a few hundred feet farther north, opposite
a bank of frozen snow and ice one hundred feet high and
standing at an angle of fifty degrees, commenced cutting
steps, and ascended the ice cliff, the top of which he soon
reached without apparent difficulty ; and from this the sum-
mit of the island was gained by a gradual ascent neither diffi-
cult nor dangerous.

Another party making the attempt for an ascent through a
small steep ravine up which they climbed, succeeded after
several narrow escapes from falling rocks, in reaching the
top of the ravine, but then found that their ascent was

■ij

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\o6

ARCTIC KXriX)RATIONS.

scarcely bci^^un. for ahovc them was a plain siirfacf ot iK-nly
a thousand Icct iiigh, and so steep tiiat tin* rock which cov-
ered it at the sliohtest ton'h came thunderino to the hoiion^
Hooper had now to interpose his antiiority, and order ii
retreat for tiie safety oi this party whose descent was made
one at a time, the upjxM" ones reinaininir quiet till the lower
ones were out oi danjL^er.

The top of the island, ordinarily inaccessible, under ilie

A WAVli-WORN ICEIiERG.

slvilful guidance of Professor Muir, had been thus reached by
a large party, and everywhere carefully searched for traces
of the Jeannette and missing whalers. All prominent points
were carefully examined for cairns, but none were found, or
anything which would indicate that the island had ever
before been visited by human beings.

From Kolintchin Island a sledge party, coii^sisting o( First-
Lieutenant Herring, Third-Lieutenant Reynolds, Coxswain
Gessler, and two natives, with, twenty-five dogs, four sleds,
one skin-boat, one tent, and well supplied with blankets, pro-

KKI,li:i' KXI'IiDmoNS I'OK rilK JJIANNKTIK.

307

visions, arms, and liirs, was .-cut out, with orders to n^turn to
Caix: Scrd/.c Kaiiicn. 'I'hcy wcrt; absent twcnty-eii^dit days,
but (ii<l not hear any n<;ws of tlie Jeannette.

On July 3otii Herald Island was si^hteil by the Corwin,
and soon Ca[)tain I loo|)<'r effected a landint;^. 'Ihe explora-
tion now made is tin; lirst in the history of this island.

I'loni the summit a _i;()(k1 view was offered of Wranj^^dl
band, the maLjnetic bearing of its extremity bein_i^ tjiven by
Professor Muir as south 40"; west antl south 70°; west or
80^1162" 26'; west and north 86° 34' N. (true). Thr con-
tour of the east(;rn end of the land was clearly defuKul as
about forty miles distant, bul farther away, on its north side,
a blue line appeared above the horizon which Muir supposed
to b(; land extendinj;^ in that direction. 'I'o the party who
rt-aclictl the summit, all sense of fatii;u<; vanished, for the mid-
niq;ht sun was shinini^ with gleaming splendor, colorini^ all
the waste of tlu; ice, sea, and granite.

While the exploration on the island was i^oin^ on, the
Corwin steamed around to the north side in a cl(.>ar U-dd be-
tween the grounded and the drift-ice, and made an examina-
tion of the shore line. At 2.30 a. m., all hands having
returned to thv. vessel, she cast off from tin; ground-ice and
"jtcanied through the drift, toward clear water, which was
reached about 6.30 a. m. The Corwin was also the first to
land here; the lu'st of explorers to aj)proach, indcu'd, v(!ry
near this island, the bearings of which were afterward so
fully determined by Lieutenant Berry, U. S. N., of the Rod-
gers.

From this first exploration of Wrangell Land, Captain
Hooper crossed over to Point Barrow, where he; found a part
of the crew of the whaler Daniel Webster, whose captain,
not having been familiar with Arctic navigation, had remained
in a lead just half an hour, long enough to have his ship
crushed. Nine of the crew who had escaped to the shore
were taken aboard the Corwin, others having gone overland
to Icy Cape.

August 24th, the cutter had again made a distance of 600
miles, arriving in Plover Bay, where was found the (Jolden
Fleece, with Lieutenant Ray, of the U. S. A. Signal Service,
on his way to establish a meteorological station at Point
Barrow.

On the 27th the Corwin sailed to the northward, and soon

li :i

3o8

ARCTIC EXI'LOKATIONS.

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S' l> I

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after a^ii-ain siLT-hted the blue peaks of Wranu-ell Laiul, stand-
ing along the ice-pack from which she neared Herald Island
but, in a fierce gale that lasted several days, lost her iron ice-
breaker, and. as the oak sheathing which had protected th(;
soft Oregon plank around her bows was also entirely oone,
the captain could not again venture into the ice. After cruis-
ing eastward into the vicinity of Kotzebue Sound and Mothain
Inlet, and at St. Michaels receiving on board a second party
of shipwrecked men, the cutter went on her way to San Fran-
cisco, where she arrived October 21st, 1881.

On the 1 6th day of June, 1881, the steamship RodL^ers.
Captain Berry, formerly the Helen and Mary, started from
San Francisco on a. cruise for the Jeannette. In addition to
the very large amount of stores and pemmican purchased
from the remainder of the Jeannette search expedition appro-
jiriation. the ship had received three years' full navy rations,
ample for thirty-five officers and men for five years. The
Rodgers safely arrived at Wrangell Island a second time on
.September 2 2d, and on September 27th Captain Berry turned
south for winter-quarters, and arrived at St. Lawrence Bay
on the 1 6th day of October. The preparations for the winter
were unfortunately kept back by continued bad weather, which
prevented the transfer to the shore of a large part of the
provisions and supplies.

November 20th, Fjisign Hunt started up the coast with a
dog-team, to visit the camp of Master Putnam, but was com-
pelled by severe storms to return to the ship. In tb'" morn-
ing of November 30th, the startling cry of fire was hciad on
board the Rodgers, issuing from the hold, which was -p c'o^ely
filled with stores that it was next to impossible to gc' vater
into it. By 4 p. m. some of these had been secured, the: men
working in the smoke and carbonic acid gas below decks; the
boats being loaded, the ship was abandoned at midnight.
She drifted up the bay, rigging and sails on fire, and her
magazine exploded in the early morning. The cause of the
fire could not be learned ; it was probably from spontaneous
combustion, or from the firing of the deck underneath from
the donkey-boiler.

In a camp formed of overturned boats, sails and tents,
officers and crew found a shelter from a violent snow-storm;
next morning a party ol natives from the village Noomamoo,
seven miles off, came to offer a hospitable refuge in their huts,

;'S;1

REi-IEF liXl'EDlTluNS FOR THE JEANNKl JE.

309

and the party, after a fatiguing tramp, were distributed among-
the eleven homes which made the settlement, making the
uncoiiilortable exchange of ship life to a winter's siege on
walrus and blubber. Afterward the officers and crew were

ArTACKKD BY WALRUS.

divided into four parties, and scattered in three other villages
within a radius of twenty miles.

Natives communicating the news of the burning of the ship
to Putnam, he started south with four loaded sledges for their

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310

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

relief, meeting Lieutenant Berry, who was on his way to Mas-
ter Putnam's camp. The latter had been left near Caoe
Serdze, to explore the coast in search of tiie Jeannette. Con-
tinuing his trip under orders, he delivered his provisions on
January 4th, and on the loth started on his return accom-
panied by Hunt, Zane, Castillo, and three natives, driving
his own team of nine dogs. In an attempt to face a heavy
gale, probably not having the ability to control tlie doers, or
not being aware of the abrupt deviation from the course taken
by the other sleds, he missed hi? way in crossing the bay and
drifted out to sea on an ice-floe. An immediate hunt wiiicli
was entreated of the i' atives, was not permitted tiiat nicrht
by the violence of the gale, and the wind unhappily detached
the ice from the shore, and carried it to sea ; next morninrr
all was clear water. On the 14th and on the 17 th the search
was renewed along the shore thirty miles, but no good news
was heard ; on tiie 29th it was learned that six of the dogs
had come ashore without har: ess, one of them with a pistol-
shot wound in his neck, given probably by Putnam, who in-
tended to use it for food, had he succeeded in escaoing. He
was seen three days afterward, being carried out to sea, but
an earnest effort to reach him in a canoe failed, the ice cut-
ting through the boat. How long he survived can never be
known ; the temperature was from twenty to forty degrees
below zero, and he had no protection from the fierce winds,
except his warm clothing. His death was either from the
cold, want of food, or from the breaking up of the floe. A
month's search on the shore made by Waring and Stoney
levealed nothing more of one of the most promising officers
of the expedition.

In the meantime, February 8th, Lieutenant Berry, as yet
unacquainted with this sad disaster, left Cape Serdze with
Hunt to follow the coast westward in search of the missing
crews ; arriving at the Russian post of Nishne March 24th.
he learned of the landing of part of the Jeannette's crew at
the mouth of the Lena, and continued his journey, overtaking
Chief Engineer Melville's search party, and proceeding to
Yakutsk. Berry intended to fit out a new expedition, but on
learning that Lieutenant Harber had been ordered by Secre-
tary Chandler to make a summer search, he returned home,
and Hunt joined Harber.

The party from the Rodgers left on shore at St. Lawrence

RELIEF EXPEDITIONS FOR THE JEANNEITE.

311

Bay, under Master Waring, U. S. N., was received on board
the whaling barque Nortii Star, Captain L. C. Owens, ot" New
Bedford, May 8th. Tiie captain, having heard of the party by a
letter which Waring had intrusted to the natives for any
passing whaling vessel, had forced his ship through the oppo-
site ice for their rescue. On their way to Ounalaska, falling
in with the revenue cutter Corwin, the Rodgers party were
transferred to her, arriving in San T'rancisco June 23d, 1882.

Another expedition in search of the Jeannette was sent out
by the United States government, under Commanders Cooper
and Wadleigh. The United States screw-steamer Alliance left
Hampton Roads June i6th, 1881, and anchored in the harbor
of Hammerfest, Norway, July 24th.

August 27th the Alliance left Spitzbergen, and cruised
under sail until September nth to Hammerfest, after which
she succeeded in getting again as far north as 79° 3' 36".
The ice and the weather showed Commander Wadleigh that
it would be unsafe to attempt to reach Cape Brewster. Sep-
tember 25th, under the instructions of the department as
already named, he began his return, arriving at Reykiavik,
October loth, Halifax, Nova Scotia, November ist, and New
York, on the nth. While at Reykiavik he received news
from Governor Finssen of the stranding and wreck of a mer-
chant vessel of 1,200 tons, June 26th, 1881, on the rocks just
outside of Thorshaven. The governmental examination which
had been made of this ship had found upon it the inscription
Jamestown, Boston, Mass. There was, however, no informa-
tion offered to Commander Wadleigh, indicating in any man-
ner the slightest knov/ledge or rumor of the Jeannette.

iSm-

I III;: ^

m':: \

CHAPTER XIX.

METEOROLOGICAL STATIONS IN THE POLAR REGIONS.

An Intc-national Congress — Stations Recommended by the Polar Commission— '["he In.
structioiis of the Officers in Command of these Expeditions — Preliminary Expedition of
the schooner Florence — Valualjle Scientific Observations.

In September, 1875, the late Lieutenant Carl Weyprecht,
one of the commanders of the Arctic expedition in the ill-
fated Tegetthoff and the discoverer of Franz Joseph's Land,
first made the proposition, that the world should unite in one
uniform system of magnetic and meteorological observations
at as many stations as possible, as well in the Arctic as in
the Antarctic regions. These results were to be compared
with those to be obtained in the temperate zones. The estab-
lishment of an official Polar Commission was the result, all
the members of which were clothed with authority by their
respective governments. This commission recommended that
the following stations should be occupied by observers, to be
appointed by the respective governments :

By the United States, Lady Franklin Bay, Grinnell Land,
N. lat. 81° 44', W. long. 64°' 30', and Ooglaamie, near Point
Barrow, Alaska. N. 71° 18' lat, long. VV. 156° 24'; by Austro-
Hungary, Jan Mayen, lat. N. 70° 58', long. 8° 35', and Pola,
lat. N. 70° 52', E. long. 13° 51'; by Denmark, Godthaab, lat.
64° 10', W. long. 51° 45'; by Finland, Soudan Kyla, lat. N.
6y° 24', E. long. 26° 36'; by France, Cape Horn. lat. S. 56°
00', W. long. 67° 00'; by Germany, South Georgia Island, S.
lat. 54° 30CW. long. 38° 00', and Kingawa, N. lat. 67° 30', W.
long. 67° 30' (Hogarth Inlet, Cumberland Sound) ; by (ireat
Britain and Canada, Fort Rae or Fort Simpson, on (ireat
Slave Lake, N. lat. 62° 30', W. long. 115° 40', and Toronto,
where observations will be made by Canada, N. lat. 43° 39',
W. long. 79° 23'; by Holland, Dickson Haven, or Port Dick-
son, N. lat. jTi^ 30'- E- lori.2r. 82° 00'; by Italy, Punta Arenas,
Patagonia, S. lat. 53° 10', W. long. 70° 55'; by Russia, Nova
Zembla (Karmakule Bay), N. lat. 72° 30', E. long. 53° 00', and

(312)

METEOROLOGICAL FTATIONS,

313

Mouth of the Lena, N. lat. 73° 00', E. long. 124° 40'; by
Sweden, Spitzbergen, N. lat. 79° 53', E. long. 16° 00'; by the
An'^entine Republic, steps have been taken to establish a
macmetic observatory at Cordoba, S. lat. 31° 30', W. long.
64° 30'. A number of "Auxiliary Stations " were alfeo pro-
posed.

In addition to the two stations named above for Russia,
the Geographical Society of that country proposed to main-
tain seven special meteorological stations in Siberia. The
United States Signal Officer reported in 1882 that the follow-
ing named countries were co-operating with the United States
in the work of Polar research : Germany at Pendulum Island,
North Atlantic, and South Georgian Island, in the Antarctic
Ocean; England and Canada, Russia, Austria, France, Hol-
land. Finland, Norway and Sweden, and Denmark.

The Bulletin of the Geographical Society of Paris {Premier
Triniestre, 1883) reviews the proposed plan of work, and
locates the observers as follows : The United States, at the
points before named ; England, at Fort Rae, Great Slave
Lake, 62° 30' N. ; Germany, on Cumberland Gulf, 66° 30' N.;
Denmark, at Godhavn, Greenland, 64° 10' N. ; Austria, at Jan
Mayen, between Norway and Greenland, 70° 58' ; Sweden, on
Mosoel Bay, Spitzbergen, 79° 53' N. ; Norway, at Bossekop,
the north cape of Finmark, 69° 56' N. ; Holland, at Dickson-
haven, the mouth of the Yenesei, 73° 20' N. ; Russia, at So-
kandyla, Finland, 67° 24' N., at Karmakul^ Bay, north coast
of Nova Zembla, 72° 30', and at Cape Borchaya, on the east
of the Lena Delta, 73° N. For these stations the following
moneys have been contributed, chiefly by national appropria-
tions: For the two parties in the United States, ^100,000;
for the English, $33,000 ; for the Danish, 1^40,000 ; for the
Austrians, by Count Wibczek exclusively, ;j^4o,ooo ; lor the
Swe'lish, 5^16,000; for the Holland observations, $13,000; for
Norway, $8,000 ; for Russia, $90,000 ; for France, at Cape
Horn, $60,000 ; for the German observations at the Georgian
Islands, $36,000 ; for observations by Italy and the Argentine
Republic at the South Shetland Islands, $16,000.

"If we add to all these stations those already existing in
Russia, Siberia, Alaska, the English Provinces of the North,
etc., it will be seen that around the whole Polar Circle will be
a zone of observatories, whose observations will form the
study of the globe to the eightieth degree of north latitude ;

'■■Ii- \i

■4 ■ si

1 1ll

■iM

ARCriC: EXPLORATIONS.

while in the southern hemisphere England has a meteoro-
logical observatory in the Falkland Islands. . . . Tlic lanrcr
number of the civilized nations are striving by scientific means
to wrest the mysterious secrets of the deep from their hidden
recesses of the North."

At the date of the issue by the United States Signrd Ser-
vice, Washington, of the " Memoranda " from which some of
these notes of the stations are cited, it is stated by dcMieral
Hazen, that since the organization of the International Com-
mission other nations have enlisted in the work ; the observ-
ing parties have all been despatched to their respective
destinations, and they now are actually engaged in tiie con-
templated observations. The stations will be occupied for
at least one, and, in some cases, for three years, and may be
divided into two classes, namely: (i.) The special polar
stations within thirty degrees of the north or south pole ; and,
(2.) The auxiliary stations, which are spread over the rest of
the habitable globe. Besides these land stations, observations
made on shipboard are extensively called for, and it is hoped
that enough observations will be accumulated to allow the
making of a complete map of the weather, and of the mag-
netic disturbances throughout the whole globe, for any moment
of time during the period in question. In addition to the
main work of these international stations, all possible atten-
tion will be given to numerous collateral subjects. Thir-
teen nations have thus far entered heartily into the project;
fifteen polar stations and over forty auxiliary stations have
been establis^^ed.

A distinction was made between the observations con-
sidered obligatory and those regarded as desirable. Those
considered obligatory in the aid of meteorology are, observa-
tions on the temperature of the air and of the sea, barometric
pressure, humidity, winds, clouds, rainfalls, and the weather
and optical phenomena ; those for magnetism are for abso-
lute declination, inclination, and horizontal intensity ; and for
variations of the same.

In the Official Report of the Chief of the United States
Signal Service for the year 1881, he said that " Owing to the
very mobile nature of the atmosphere, the changes taking
place on our portion of the globe, especially in the Arctic
Zone, quickly affect regions very distant therefrom. The
study of the weather in Europe and America cannot be sue-

METEOROLOGICAL STATIONS.

315

cessfiilly prosecuted without a daily map of tiic whole northern
hemisphere, and the g^reat blank space of the Arctic region
upon our simultaneous international ciiart has long been a
subject of regret to meteorologists. . . . The general object
is to accomplish by observations made in concert at numerous
stations such additions to our knowledge as cannot be ac-
quired by isolated or desultory travelling parties. No special
attempt will be made at geographical exploration, and 7icithcr
expedition is in any sense an attempt to 7-cacIi the North Pole.
The single object is to elucidate the phenomena of the weather
and the magnetic needle, as they occur in America and Europe,
by means of observations taken in the region where the most
remarkable disturbances seem to have their origin."

In the expression of these sentiments and in the carrying
out, as General Hazen said, the promises of his predecessor,
the late General Meyer, by co-operating with the International
Committee he was also furthering the objects in view by the
late Professor Henry, as expressed in his letter to Hon. B.
A. Willis, in which he wrote : " I am predisposed to advocate
any rational plan for exploration and observation within the
Arctic Circle. Much labor has been expended on this sub-
ject, especially with a view to reach the Pole ; yet many
problems connected with physical geography and science in
general remain unsolved.

"I. With regard to a better determination of the figure
of the earth, pendulum experiments are required in the region
In question.

"II. The magnetism of the earth requires, for its better
elucidation, a larger number and more continued observations
than have yet been made.

"HI. To complete our knowledge of the tides of the
ocean, a series of observations should be made, at least for a
year.

"IV. For completing our knowledge of the winds of the
globe, the results of a larger series of observations than those
we now possess are necessary, and also additional observa-
tions on temperature.

"V. The whole field of natural history could be enriched
by collections in the line of botany, mineralogy, geology, etc.,
and facts of interest obtained with regard to the influence
of extreme cold on animal and vegetable life."

The plan referred to by Professor Henry was the one em-

;

*H. i!

'H:|-

3i6

ARCTIC KXI'LOKAIIONS.

braced in a Memorial whicli liad bcuMi submittcil to Conirress
by II. W. HowoaU;, tluMi on duty at the Uiiitcti States sl^unaj
Service Office. The efforts for this preliminary polar cNpi;.
ditioii resulted in tiie despatch to Cumberland Sound, by ih,.
aid of private subscription only of the l*'lorence, a lore aiid
aft vessel of fifty-si.K tons, built in Wells, Maine, in 1851. ioi-
mackerel fisliini^-; afterwards used by Williams tS: Haven,
I lall's benefactors, as a sealer in the Southern seas. Alihonoh
a staunch and fair sea-boat, she was too small for the |)iir-
pose, anil sailed at least twi) months later than was dirsirahK;,
leavinj^ New London Aui^ust 2,^, ^'^11- Her three professt'il
objects were, to collect material, do<js anil sled_>;es ; secure the
help of the I'^sijuimaux for a second steamer which it was pro-
posed should follow; accomplish some scientific work, and
repay the outlay by whalincf.

The b'lorence, under the command of Captain Gcoroc K.
Tyson, the leader of liie lloe party from the Polaris, first
anchored in Ni-an-ti-lic harbor, on the western shore of Cum-
berland Sound, and after securini; there a numberof Hsquiiiiaux
and materials, anchored, October 7th, in An-naw-nac-liH)k, in
about latitude 67" N., lonoitude 68'' 40' W. A small observa-
tory and workini;-place was erected under shelter for nieico-
roloii^ical and other observations, and as soon as the snow
became compact a snow-house built over this tent, which
remained as a lining-. Scientific work was begun at once in
the interests of meteorology and the collection of specimens
in natural history. The co-laborers were Mr. Ludwig Kum-
lien and Mr. O. T. Sherman.

But on the return of the Florence to Godhavn, July 31st,
no expedition steamer was to bo seen, nor a word of news
of such, or of letters from home ; after tliree weeks of wait-
ing-, therefore, profitably employed in scientific labors, the
Florence returned to Cumberland Sound and re-landeil the
Esquimaux and their effects. September i 2th she heaileil for
home, reaching St. John's, Newfoundland, on the 26tli, from
which port, after encounteringr a storm of unusual fury, Cap-
tain Tyson's skill brough* her safely into Boston, October
30th, 1877.

The value of this expedition virill thus readily appear to
consist in the labors of the scientific officers who have been
named.

■ I

CHAPTER XX.

I.ADY TKANKMN HAY.

Tlic (irocly F,xpe(1iti()n — Tho Nanii-s of tlic Mi:ml)«Ts of the Party — The InstruclionH ol
(he Chief Sifjiiiil-C Xliccr — The I'roteufi sets out to convey tlie Party to I'raiiklin Hay —
I'MaliMshiiij; Fort C'oiij^er -Allemptod Reliefs in 1882 and 1885 — l',x|ie(iilh)ns of the
Nt|'liiiu and the Proteus — 'I'he Latter Cruslied — Lieutenant (iplweil's Hoal-Journey South
— Ktlurn of the Relief Kxi)edition — Sjiicy Letter of Mr. 1-inden Kent to (Jencral W. H
Ila/rii. ,

Tm; colony at lH)rt Conji^cr, in Lady Franklin liay, lat. 8i°
44' N. and loni,^ 64° 30' W., was established under an art of
Congress, appropriatintj the sum of 1^25,000 for this purj)Osc.
First Lieutenant A. W. (irecly, U. S, A., in June, 1881, was
charged with the establishint:^ of a permanent station at the
most suitable point north of the 8ist parallel, and c:onti<;uous
to the coal vein discovered near Lady Franklin Hay in 1875.
This station was to be maintained for three years at least, and
an annual visit should be paid to the station to carry fresh
food and supplies, and, if necessary, to brin^ back invalid mem-
bers of th(! expedition and to carry out fresh men to take their
places.

The party consisted of:

Lieutenant and Brevet-Major A. W. Grecly ; Lieutenant
F. F. Kislingbury ; Lieutenant James B. Lockwood ; L)r. O.
Pavy, ActinjT Assistant Surgeon and Naturalist ; Serji^eants
Hrainard, Frederics, Lonj^, Klison, Cross, Linn, Jewell,
Ralston, Israel and Rice ; Corporal Saler ; Hospital Steward
Biedcrbeck ; Privates Connelly, Bender, Ellis, Whistler,
Henry and Schneider, and Frederick Christiansen and Jens
Edwards, Esquimaux.

Lieutenant Greely received his instructions from the Chief
Signal Officer, General Hazen.

The directions for the outward voyage, and the general
work of the party after reaching their station, required that
after leaving St. John's, Newfoundland, " except to obtain
Esquimau hunters, dogs, clothing, etc., at Disco and Uper-
navik, only such stops will be made as the condition of the

(317)

3i8

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

" •■ \t

■i,

I ;:> :i

^•■i^li-^

ice necessitates, or as are essential in order to determine; the
exact location and condition of the stores cached on tin; east
coast of Grinnell Land by the English Expedition of 1875.
During any enforced delays along the coast it would be well
to supplement the English depots by such small caches from
the steamer's stores of provisions as would be valuabh; to a
party retreating southward by boats from Robeson's Channel.
At each point where an old depot is examined, or a new one
established, three brief notices will be left of the visit — one to
be deposited in the cairn built or found standing, one to be
placed on the north side of it, and one to be buried twenty
feet north (magnetic) of the cairn. Notices discovered in

cairns will be brought away,
replacing them, however, by
copies."

The steamer Proteus, on her

arrival at Ladv Franklin Bay,

was to dischar her cargo with

the utmost de :h, and return

to St. John's, bringing a report

of the proceedings and observa-

,,^^|^_^^^^^^^^ tions made during the voyage,

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ while the party which landed,

I^^B^^^^^^KB^^It after erecting a dwelling-house

and observatories, were to make,
% in accordance with the proposals
made to the navy department,
sledging expeditions for geo-
graphical surveys to the high
land north of Cape Joseph
Henry; their chief work, however, was to be that of the
scientific observations which have been named.

Leaving St. John's, Newfoundland, July 7th, 1881, Lieuten-
ant Greely reached Godhavn on the i6th, the voyage being
made in the face of continuously adverse winds, two strong
northerly gales and constant cloudy and foggy weather. The
ship behaved admirably. The only ice seen south of Cape
Farewell was a few icebergs off Funk Island, and about forty
in 52° N. and 53° 15' W. Pack-ice was fallen in with at
10.30 p. M. July 1 2th, in lat. 61° 30' N., 53° 30' W., and a second
pack encountered the same day, at 2.30 p. m., in 62° 30' N.,
52° 15' W., was passed through in an hour; neither offered

LIEUTENANT A. W. GREELY.

LADY KKANKI-IN BAY.

319

any obstructions to free passag^e or caused the slightest dt;lay.
They both consisted of ice-Hoes varying from one to eight
feet above the water. Coming from the east coast of Green-
land they had drifted with the southerly current from Cape
Farewell into Davis Strait.

From Herr Krarup Smith, inspector of North Greenland,
it was learned that the past winter in Greenland, except a
brief period of cold in March, had been one of marked and
unusual mildness, and that the ice north of Upernavik had
broken up very early. July 20th, Dr. Octave Pavy joined the
expedition as acting assistant surgeon. Twelve dogs, a large
quantity of dog-food, and some sealskins were procured, with
a considerable quantity of " mattaky skin of the white whale,
a very valuable anti-scorbutic ; and a few articles of fur cloth-
ing obtained by barter, as they could not be bought for
money. Hard bread and tobacco were principally given in
exchange.

The remains of the house purchased by the Florence in
1880 were taken on board, as well as thirty thousand pounds
of buffalo pemmican stored by the same expedition. A good
set of observations for time were made July i9-20th, at the
only hours during which the sun shone.

Leaving Godhavn the morning of the 21st the vessel
reached Rittenbenk the same forenoon. At that point were
purchased a number of sealskins, a large quantity of dog-
food and other minor articles, which had been accumulated
for the expedition through the energy of Dr. Pavy. Being
delayed by the fog Lieutenant Lock wood was sent with a
party to obtain birds from Awe-Prins Island. He returned
that evening with sixty-five guillemots (Alcaawa or Alca
Bruennichi). It was said at Rittenbenk that the spring had
been the most forward one for years.

From Rittenbenk, ru.xning through the Waigat, the steamer
was off Upernavik 9 p. m. July 23d, but owing to the fog could
not enter the harbor until next morning. Two Esquimaux
who were expected to accompany the expedition were not
available, and in consequence a trip to Proven, about fifty
miles distant, was necessary to obtain others. Skin clothing
could not be obtained, except ten suits, which having been
made by order of the Danish Government for the use of the
International Polar Station of Upernavik of 1882-83, were
now sold.

I-:!.:.

'' !?■

320

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

On the morRing of July 25th Lieutenant Lockwood left in
the steam-launch Lady Greely for Proven, taking a circuitous
route inside the islands, rendered necessary by bad weather.
He returned early on the 28th, bringing for service with the
expedition a native, Jans Edward, and a half-breed, Frederick
Shorley Christiansen ; he also procured about a dozen suits
of skin clothing, which, though second-hand, were very ser-
vic( ?.ble. He had killed one hundred and twenty guillemots
dr ring his voyage. The launch behaved admirably, both as
a s a-boat and under steam.

Lieutenant Kislingbury, under orders, made two visits,
July 24th and 25th, to the "Loomery" near Sanderson's
Hope, bringing back the first day three hundred fine birds,
and on the latter one hundred and fifteen, all guillemots (Alca
Awa), and ten dogs, five of whom died of dog disease, and
must have been sick when sold. Additional dog-food, sledcre
fittings, dog harness, and sealskins were also bought. It was
through the marked interest and kindly influence of Inspector
Smith that the expedition secured the services of the natives
and obtained so fair a stock of needed articles.

The meteorological records of the past winter showed it to
have been very mild, and the spring very early. Inspector
Smith remarked that in fourteen years Upernavik had never
been so green. Reports from Tessi-ussak were to the effect
that the ice, breaking up very early, was all gone. On the
afternoon of July jgth the anchorage of Upernavik was left,
and at 7 p. m., having run out the southern way, the vessel
was distant three miles, just off the island to the west. Run-
ning northward a few hours the Middle Passage was taken,
and at 7 a. m., July 31st, the engines were stopped, as the dead
reckoning placed the vessels only six miles south of Cape York;
a dense fog prevented the land from being seen, but an hour
later, the fog lifting a few minutes, showed land about five
miles distant. This experience of the " Middle Passage " may
be fairly said to have been without parallel or precedent.
The run of the English Expedition of 1875-76 from Upernavik
to seventy five miles south of Cape York in seventy hours was
said to have been unprecedented ; this passai^e by the same
route, and to within five miles of Cape York, was made in
thirty-six hours, half the time taken by the expedition under
Sir George Nares to run a less distance.

Nothing in the shape of a pack was encountered in Baffin

od left in
:ircuitous
weather,
with the
Frederick
zen suits
very ser-
uillemots
Y, both as

^vo visits^
nderson's
fine birds,
lots (Alca
lease, and
Dd, sledge
t. It was
Inspector
be natives

owed it to
Inspector
lad never
the effect
On the
c was left,
:he vessel
1st. Run-
as taken,
the dead
pe York;
t an hour
bout five
,oe " may
recedent.
Ipernavik
lours was
Ithe same
made in
)n under

Baffin

"or

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»c

Ucly ||-^%

I >

! tl^

a
t
11
a
a
1.
tc
w
w

lai

frc

sis

thi

fee

vef

gal

ten

ice

the

fror

LADY FRANKLIN BAY.

321

Bay; but in about 75° 08' N., 6;^° 40' W., a pack was seen to
the westward ; whether open or compact was uncertain. At
8.15 A. M. July 31st, the fog lifting, disclosed Petowik glacier
near, to the north of which, in small patches of dirty reddish
color, was seen the red snow among the " crimson cliffs " of
Sir John Ross. Sighting the Carey Islands at 3.10 P. m., two
parties were landed on thv- southeast at 5.45 r. m. The party
under Dr. Pavy obtained from the cairn on the summit the
record left by Captain Allen Young in 1875 and 1876, and
with Lieutenants Greely and Lockwood found and examined
the whaleboat and depot of provisions left by Sir George
Nares in 1875 ; they were in good and serviceable condition.

August 2d Litdeton Island was reached. Here a personal
and exiiaustive search of seven hours was necessary to find
the English mails. There was a very small cairn near the
mails, but with no record. A record enclosure was left here,
and Lieutenant Lockwood with a party landed about six and
a half tons of coal, as a depot of fuel for possible future use.
Lieutenant Kislingbury and Dr. Pavy visited Lifeboat Cove
to communicate with the Etah Esquimaux and see the Polaris
winter-quarters. Several photographs of the surroundings
were taken by Sergeant Rice, and a number of relics were
brouoiht off. The transit instrument of the Polaris was found
about twenty feet from the cairn.

About 7.45 p. M., off Cape Lieber, a heavy pack against the
land was passed to the eastward, and at 9 p. m,, August 4th,
the vessel was stopped for the first time by ice, in the extreme
southeast part of Lady Franklin Bay, only eight miles from
destination. The pack was a very heavy one, and running
from Cape Baird northward in a semicircle, reached the
Greenland coast, where it touched the land just south of
Offley Island, near the mouth of Peterman's Fiord. It con-
sisted of thick Polar ice, ranging from twenty to fifty feet in
thickness, cemented together by harbor ice from two to five
feet thick. It was impossible to do aught but wait. The
vessel was tied to the pack off Cape Baird, and awaited a
gale.

August 5th Greely went ashore at Cape Lieber, with Lieu-
tenant Lockwood, Dr. Pavy and a party, to examine the
ice from tiie cliffs. Lieutenant Lockwood erected a cairn on
the highest peak. No other cairn could be seen on it or
from it, nor on other peaks visited by Greely and Dr.

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322

ARCriC EXPLORATIONS.

Pavy. Occasional lanes of water could be seen through ([^q.
rifts of the fog-cloud which covered Hall-basin ; but the main
pack was firm and unchanged. August 6th, the pack movina
slightly, obliged the vessel to change her mooring-place from
time to time ; it drove the ship out of Lady Franklin Hay,
and during two days she was gradually driven south; prob-
ably twenty-five miles of ice in huge fields passed soutlnvanl.
Every opportunity was improved to steam around such lields,
to keep head against the southerly current ; but by the even-
ing of August 8th the steady north wind had forced the whoh*
pack down, while the fields, previously driven southward,
packed fast together, formed a huge, compact barrier, stretch-
ing from Carl Ritter Bay across to Hans Island. Only a mile
or so of open water remained. A nip appeared most prob-
able, and preparations were hastily made to unship screw and
rudder. During the night matters improved somewhat; but
again, during the 9th and 10th, the ship was forced slowly
southwards to within about five miles of Hans Island, havinor
lost about forty-five miles of latitude.

About noon of the 10th the long-desired southwest gale set
in, accompanied by snow, starting the pack northward. The
snow cleared the next morning, but the gale fortunately con-
tinued, and open water was visible on the west coast as far
northward as could be seen. At 7.30 a. m. the ship rapidly
ran northward, and about i p. m. again passed Cape Lieber,
and at 2.40 p. m. had crossed Lady Franklin Bay. Either ice-
foot or pack-ice jammed against the shore covered Water-
course Bay, but a narrow lane permitted the vessel to enter
Discovery Harbor just inside Dutch Island, where harbor ice
about eighteen inches thick was found, covering the whole
harbor as well as the western half of Lady Franklin Bay,
Lieutenant Lockwood, sent to examine the bay, reported the
place an excellent one for camp, the bay partly clear, but
shallow. He thought it probable the vessel could come
within about two hundred yards of the shore ; the bay, how-
ever, was of such shape that, while discharging, the vessel
would be unprotected against ice, as it is exposed to all winds
from northeast to south-southwest. The coal was so located
that it could be readily mined after ice formed, and could, if
required, be hauled without difficulty to Watercourse Bay or
to Discovery Harbor. Lieutenant Greely reluctantly decided
to settle at Discovery winter-quarters ; and it was a fortunate
decision, for Watercourse Bay was full of pack-ice.

LADY FRANKLIN BAY.

323

On the 1 2th the vessel broke her way through two miles
of heavy ice, and anchored off the cairn about one hundred
yards from shore ; the men were divided into two gangs, to
work day and night by four-hour reUefs, until the general
car^o was discharged, which was done in sixty hours. Coal
was landed, of which there was about one hundred and forty
tons, enough to last two winters without mining any. Work
on the house progressed rapidly, though but three or four
men could be spared for the work. The foundation was
finished, tloor stringers laid, and about one-eighth of the frame
set up. Fourteen musk oxen were immediately killed, and
enough meat procured for issue, three times a week, for the
following seven months, besides ten days' rations of dried
birds. "The post was named Fort Conger, in honor of Sen-
ator Conger, of Michigan. Photographic views have been,
and will be, taken once each day. From these one can best
judge of the progress and condition of affairs."

It is proper to state, says Lieutenant Greely, that a retreat
from here southward to Cape Sabine, in case no vt -sel reaches
here in 1882-3, will be safe and practicable ; although all but
the most important records will necessarily have to l3e aban-
doned; abstracts could and will be made of those left.

In the reports of the Signal Officer for 1881-2 it is stated
that "The station has supplies for two years ; that it was con-
templated to be visited in 1882 and 1883 by a seal steamer
or other vessel, bearing such supplies and additions to the
party as might be deemed needful ; and that in case such ves-
sel Is unable to reach Lady Franklin Bay in 1882, she will cache
a portion of her supplies and all of her letters and despatches
at the most northerly point she attains on the east coast
of Grinnell Land, and establish a small depot of supplies at
Littleton Island. Notices of the locality of such depots will
be left at one or all of the following places, viz. : Cape Hawks,
Cape Sabine and Cape Isabella. In case no vessel reaches
the permanent station in 1882, the vessel sent in 1883 will re-
main in Smith's Sound until there is danger of its closing by
ice, and on leaving will land all her supplies and a party at
Litdeton Island, which party will be prepared for a winter's
stay, and will be instructed to send sledge parties up to the .
east side of Grinnell Land to meet this party. If not visited .
in 1882, Lieutenant Greely will abandon his station not later
dian September ist, 1883, and will retreat southward by boat, i

53 ' V : »,

324

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

-■)^

following closely the east coast of Grinnell Land, until the
relieving vessel is met or Littleton Island is reached.

"During the first session of the Forty-seventh ConL,^r(.'.ss an
act was passed, June 27th, 1882, appropriating $33,000 lortlu:
supply and relief of Lieutenant Greely's party; and uiichji
this appropriation Mr. William M. Beebe was sent out with
men and supplies on board the Neptune on the 8th of [uly
following. His report to the Signal Officer, dated St. John's,
N. F., September 28th, tells the brief story of the failure of
this vessel to reach the station.

"The Neptune met the first field ice July 13th, lat. 60° N.,
long. 54° W. Mr. Beebe says that these fields, thou^j'^ not
large, were very heavy and solid, and this was undoubtedly the
heavy winter ice, borne from the eastern coast of Greenland

PACK-ICE.

by the strong current which sets southward from about Ice-
land, turns to the westward and northward around Cape Fare*
well, and flows up the western coast of Greenland, until, in
lat. (about) 67° N., it meets and mingles with the current
from Baffin Bay. These united currents set southward with
great strength down the coast of Labrador, and, trending
eastward, pass around and down the eastern coast of New-
foundland and into the Gi:lf Stream, carrying with them the
immense icebergs launched from the numerous glaciers of
West Greenland and so much of the ice-fields as had survived
the passage from Davis Strait." The passage of the ship did
not exceed three miles an hour, but she broke through the
fragments of solid ice-pans, clearing the floe within two days,
and arriving at Godhavn on the 1 7th. Here she learned the

LADY M<ANK1.IN HAV.

325

deatli of the Danish Inspector vSniitli, so frtHjiu'iuly referred
to in all previous American expeditions. IxtavinL; Godlnivn
July 20th, the Neptune encountered a blindinL;; snowstorm,
rendering it impossible to pick her way throui^h the chanu'ls.
She tied up to the ice-lields for the night. Working again
with difficulty from the 23d to the 28th. after helplessly drift-
ing with the tides in plain view of Cape York and the Crim-
son Cliffs of Beverly, she passed Littleton Island ; but, a half
hour later, was checked by an unbroken ice-barrier, frt^m
twelve to twenty feet thick, c:xtending from Cape Inglefield
on the west, across the sound, to Ross liay and to the northern
horizon. Turning again southward, and looking in only at
Life-boat Cove and Port P'oulke, she made a tolerably com-
fortable anchorage in Pandora Harbor, finding here Sir Allen
Young's record of his visit in the Pandora, 1875 I ^"<-^ ^^^ '^^
most acceptable change from the ordinary ship's fare, abun-
dance of game — Arctic hares, eidt;r ducks, auks, and a variety
of gulls. August 7th, the field ice having been thoroughly
broken by the .southwest gales, the Neptune again turned
northward, reaching on the 10th lat. 79° 20', twelve miles fron\
Cape Hawks and seventeen from Cape Prescott. On th<-
18th she anchored in Payer Harbor, lat 78° 42' N., long. 74'^
21', finding on Brevoort Island, and on an islet near it, Captain
Nares' record anc! the depot established by Captain Stephen-
son, The broken cache was rebuilt, anil a record of th(^
Neptune placed in it.

Making a third nortluvard effort on the 23d, but checked
in it. Captain Sopp found the condition of the ice and the
prevalence of the southwest winds to demand that the sliip
should seek a harbor; he returned to Pandora Bay, and from
thence, after several unsuccessful attempts even to establish
a depot as far north as Cape Hawks, anchored off Littleton
Island on the 28th. Mr. P.eebe here effected a landing, and
established one cache on Cape Sabine and a second on Little-
ton Island, securing these so as to be invisible from any point
a few yards distant, that tliey might be safe from the luah
Esquimaux, a party of whom had already twice visited the
Neptune. Minute directions for finding these stores, as well
as a whaleboat placed on Cape Isabella, were left on another
part of the island, as had been requested by Lieutenant
Greely's letter of the previous year. Mr. Beebe was satis-
fied that if Lieutenant Greely should come down to Cape

!,i ii^ 1

326

ARCTIC KXl'LOKATIONS.

*m.il

!: •;,

Sabine he would readily fiiul ihcsc. After cffccliiin '!'i> pro-
vision for the future of tiiat party, he was, iiowevci-, reluc-
tantly compelled to assttnt to tiie decision of the cajiUiin of
th(* Nei)tune, its first officer, Mr. Norman, and the siir^rcon^
to return to the United State;:. Furtb.er delay was useless
and extremely hazardous, and the safety of die ship and the
lives of all on board demanded an immediate deparlinc. On
the 8t!i of September Ciodhavn was ai;ain reached, ami inr
do<^s, do,u^-food and lumber put on shore for a su1).so(|ik,'1u
expedition : on the 24th the Neptune anchored ai^ain at Si,
John's. The voya.q;e was another and a striking ilhisiraiion

SQUIMAUX J'.IMLUING A HUT.

of the uncertainty of ice-navigation, especially as contrasted
with that of the Proteus when she took out the party under
Lieutenant Greely the previous year. It was disheartening
to the friends of Arctic exploration, as well as to the relatives
of the explorers, that no supplies could be afforded to those
at such distance from home, and no reports of their labors or
of their condition could be received. Nothing whatever could
'be done until the summer of 1883.

In obedience to orders from the War Department and from
the chief signal officer U. S. A., Lieutenant E. A. Garlington
left New York on board the United States Steamer Yantic,
Commander Wildes, June 12th, 1883, and, on arriving at St

t li

LADY FRANKLIN BAY,

327

John's on the 21st, finding there the steamship Proteus, vvliich
]i;i(l been chartered for an expedition to reHeve Lieutenant
(irccly's party, nearly ready lor sea. After a consultation
with Commander Wildes, the steamships Yantic and Proteus
left St. Joliii's June 29th, Lieutenant Garlint^ton liavinj^ been
joined on board the Proteus by Lieutenant J. C. Colwell,
l). S. N., on duty, under orders from the Navy Department,
as a volunteer.

Disko Island was sii;hted July 6th, but Captain Pike, " by
.some error in his bearini^s," ran by the entrance to the har-
bor, and was making about due course for Riltenbenk, when
some one on deck discovered a pilot-boat steamino- after them.
The ship was put about and tlic captain piloted into God-
havn.

The Yantic arrived on the 12th, havinc^ come all die way
under sail and encountering no ice. Commander Wildes in-
forming the lieutenant that he would remain at (iodhavn
probably a week, and then go to the Waigat Strait to procure
coal, (iarlington left the harbor on the 1 6th, determined to
push his way forward without further delay. The Inspector
and the Governor of Godhavn both assured him that thcM'e
would probably be no ditTficulty in reaching the station. On
the 17th, when passing Hare Island, icebergs were numerous
in every direction. On the 18th the Proteus was forcing her
way through ice varying from two to si.x feet in thickness,
and on the second day following she was stopped by an im-
penetrable pack.

The Proteus again turned south. Cape York in sight; on
the 2 2d the southeast Carey Island, the cache of Nares' Ex-
pedition, was visited, and a record taken up which was made
there August ist, 1881.

The record is as follows :

"International Polar Expedition to Lady Franklin Bay,
fitted out by the War Department, under the supervision of
General W. B. Hazen, Chief Signal Officer U. S. Army, and
colnmanded by First-Lieutenant A. V\l. Greely, Fifth Cavalry,
A. S. O. and Asst.

" Left in the Steamship Proteus, island of Upernavik, 7 p. m.,
July 29th, 1 88 1, and at 7 a. m., July 31st, stopped by a heavy
fog- about six miles south of land supposed to be Cape York.

( -IB'!

■i ti jl

^1 ";

I '■(![

328

AKCriC liXI'LOKATlUNS.

Middle passatjc takon and found iohv. entirely jcnobslnirlrdWf
ice. All well. This notice deposited Auj^ust ist, i.SSi.
(Signed) "J. B. LocKwooi),

" i.ieut. 23d Inf. iJ. S. Army, Tiiird ( )rticnr."

(Mr.MORANDA.)

"One keg- of biscuits opened and found mouldy. One can
of be(;f opened and louml j^^ood. Stores ;^^(;nerally IouikJ
apparendy in same condition as when deposited here in j;;;:.
(Signed) "J. B. Lockwood,

••Lieut. U. S. Army."

At Cape Sabine, Payer Harbor, the cache; of ston-s iniulc
by tile party from the Neptune the year previous, was loiinj
to b(! in Hiir condition.

Under the ever quickly changinrr, but now favorable con-
dition of the leads in the ice, Lieutenant Garlingion deter-
mined to go out in the harbor, to examine these and en-
deavor once more to go north. By his glass he saw that
•• the pack had broken and open lanes of water had lonneci,
leading across Buchanan Strait along Bache Island and across
Princess Marie Bay. At 8 w m. the Proteus rounded C;i|)c
Sabine and proceeded through the op(!n leads in the broken
ice to within four miles of Cape Albert, where the ship was
stopped about six hundred yards from the open water, and
Captain Pike's efforts to force a passage by ramming ( lUiiely
failed."

The Proteus on arriving next day again within four miles
of Cape Albert, discovered that the open lane was now tilled
with a solid pack ; she turned southward In a fruitless at-
tempt to make her way out ; at 2.45, movement in any direc-
tion was impossible. Ice from five to seven feet in thickness
came against her sides and then piled itself up on the Hoe
amidships and astern ; at 4.30 p. m., tiie starboard rail gave
way, the ice forced its way through the ship's side into the
bunker, the deck planks rose, the seams opened out; at 7.15
she slowly passed out of sight on an even keel. Alive from
the outset to the coming crush of the nip. Lieutenants (lar-
lington and Colwell and Dr. Harrison had succeeded in sav
ing one of the boats and a quantity of the stores; the report
to the Signal Officer affirms that with the exception of the
chief engineer of the Proteus and the boatswain, none of the

■■. 1. . M

LADY FRANKLIN HAY.

329

Iniilcs

ilk'd

IS at-

llircc-

kncss

lloe

1) the

7-15
jtrom

l(iar-
sav-

Import
the
the

crcwof tho Protons lent .issistancc to tliis work, but employed
th(Mnsi;lvt;s In ojicnin!^ and rillinjj the boxes v.vr.n of privalir
clothiniL,^ With sonK; of the ston.'s saved, I jeiiKMiant C()lw(;ll
made a cache three miles west of Cape Sabine, which was
afterwards increased by the two sidereal chronometers and a
quantity of clothing. The cache was inteiuled for LieuKrnant
Grccly's |)arty. . • . .

To HMuh^r assistance to Greely beiniL;^ now Impossible, there
remained nothinL,^ for the parties from the Proteus except the
choice either of spendimjc the winter with tiie I^srpiimaux or
attemptini,'' to cross Melville Bay in boats. Li(;ut(Miant Col-
well head(;d boldly across the bay to establish communication
with the Yantic ; the rest of the party started to coast around
the hay and reach Upernavik ; after a severe Arctic <'xperi-
encc, Colwell reached Upernavik on the 23d. and fMulInLC that
the Yantic was not there, pushed forward to (iodhavn when;
he found the tender, and i^ladly learned from Commander
Wildes that on the 2d of the month at Upernavik, he had re-
ceived on board all of the other parties from the Proteus.
Lieutenant Col well's boats had spent in them thlrty-elL^ht
days, niaklni]^ a voyage of nearly one thousand miles.

On September 13th the Yantic arrived at St. John's, brin<^-
ing Captain Pike and crew of the Proteus, and Lieutenant
Garlington and the Greely relief party. A court of inquiry
was ordered, before which Mr. Linden Kent acted as counsel
for Lieutenant Garllnii^ton, and which ended in diat officer's
honorable acquittal of all biame.

After the return of the survivors of the ill-fated Greely
expedition^ Mr. Ken^ wrote the following letter to General
W. B. Ilazen, Chi(?f Signal Officer:

"Washington, July 2 2d, 1884.
"General W. B. Hazen : —

" Dear Sir — My professional relation to Lieutenant Gar-
liniiton In the late investiijatlon of the failuie of the Proteus
expedition under his command, will signify to you the occa-
sion for this letter. His absence and your published com-
ments on his failure to leave more stores at Cap(r Sabine
suggested to me the propriety of addressing it to you. Your
sole object, I must assume, is to fix the responsibility for the
loss of eighteen brave men where it properly belongs. In
the shadow of this great calamity, I will not believe that you

M^ i;

mw^

• \ ■ I

Ji !

;^f«^

I' 'i:'-'il|

'■'i

1''

oj*^

ARC'llC EXPLORATIONS.

can IiavG a less pure motive. We have been tlirout^Ii thli?
investi_<^ation toijether, <;eneral, and as the source of our intcl-
lijrence is the same, I feel that you will the more readily
accept the aid that I cheerfully tender to the common cause
of trutii.

"The world now knows that the sad fate of the eijjjhteen
victims was due to the failure to deposit a proper ciuaniiLyof
stores at Cape Sabine. You say that ' the rations which
Lieutenant Garlington left at Cape Sabine wen; in accord-
ance with Lieutenant Grcely's instructions. Of course, if
more stores had been left, more lives would have been saved.'
The legitimate inference from this is, that while the few stores
left by (jarlington saved the lives of six of Greely's party, the
loss of the others was due to his failure to leave a larger sup-
ply. Whose fault was it that there was not a sufficient (.h-posit
of stores at Cape Sabine ? If Garlinyton's, let him answer
for it ; if not, you would not wish that he should remain longer
under such suspicion.

"In 1882 the Beebe expedition, under your instruction, was
organized for the relief of Lieutenant Greely. It was trans-
ported nordi on the ship Neptune, and arrived in the vicinity
of Cape Sabine on th(i 29th of July, and remained until the
5th day of Sept.'.mber, having been stopped in its northward
course by a barrier of ice. 'In accordance with her instruc-
tions,' derived from you, a cache of provisions was estab-
lished upon 'Littleton Island and another o Cape Sabine of
250 rations each.' The rest of her stores were, by your
orders, brought hack to St. John's and landed for future use.
Tiiere was every opportunity to establish a cache of 10,000
rations instead of 250 at Cape Sabine had you so directed.
In your testimony before the court of inquiry on the 15th of
November, 1883, you approved of Mr. Beebe's course in
thus makino; the depots in accordance with vour instructions,
though in your testimony before the same court on the 20th
of Novembc:r, in relation to the propriety of leaving the stores
at Cape Sabine, you say: 'I have regretted very much ever
since that such instructions were not given, and that his sup-
plies were not all left at Cape Sabine.' Surely it was not
Garlington's fault that the stores of the Neptune were de-
posited at St. John's instead of at Cape Sabine, or Liuleton
Island, nor can I believe that it was Greely's, as you suggest
in your memorandum of che 19th inst.

il the
iward
istruc-
cstab-
inc ot
your
"c use.

0,000

•ccted.
5th of
rse in
ctioiis,

;oth
stores
1 ever

sup-
is not
re tle-
trlcton
,'gSest

iiii

(jjO

i'l

s ^i;

M ?

;i 1, I

St- ; !S

332

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

"Under your sole direction the relief expedition of i.sgr
was sent north in the Proteus under Lieutenant Gariiiioton'^
command, and arrived off Cape Sabine on the 2 2(1 day of
July, 18S3. If he had had orders, or even ix-niiission, lo
leave supplies at Cape Sabine, there was abundant oppor-
tunity to do so; but the court of inquiry found that under
your instructions he had neither, and justified his course in
not doing; so.

" Permit me to remind you that you specially empliasized
the necessity of not permitting Lieutenant Garlington to de-
posit any of his stores on the northward course of the Protfus
in the very first lines of your written instructions to iiim,
wherein you say : * You are aware of the necessity of reach-
ing Lieutenant A. W. Greely and his party with the cxpedi-
tion of this year. This necessity cannot be overestimated, as
Lieutenant Greely's supplies will be exhausted durino the
coming fall.' When your attention was called to this, as the
records of your office disclosed, that Greely then had a full
year's supplies, you said : * It was either a clerical error or it
was put in by Captain Clapp in his first rough draft, and th(;
matter was overlooked afterward.' This is found by the
court to have been one of the nine grave errors or omissions
noted in your action 'as having either directly led or largely
contributed to the abortive issue of the expedition.'

"Again, you justified your course in not permitting Garling-
ton to land any of his supplies on the northward progress of
the ship upon the ground that the tender (the Yantic) beino;
at Littleton Island would actually be a depot. Your instruc-
tions, both written and verbal, were explicit on this point.
In the attempt to carry out your instructions 'that no effort
must be spared to push the vessel through tc Lady FrankHu
Bay,' the Proteus was caught in the ice, and lost off Cape
Sabine on die evening of July 23d, 1883. With respect to
Garlington's conduct at this time the court, in its finding, says:
'After the disaster the evidence clearly establishes the fact
that Lieutenant Garlington and his party saved all they could
from the sinking ship, and that they cached near Cape Sahine
all the stores and provisions that could be spared before
crossintT to Littleton Island.'

'* Whether the responsibility should be fixed upon Greely
or Garlington, these facts recalled to your attention, I think,
will relieve you of any doubt as to where it should in fact rest.

i i;

LADY FRANKLIN BAY.

333

"I may add that the court took occasion to note that from
July, 1882. to August, 1883, not less than 50,000 rations were
taken in the steamers Neptune, Yantic, and Proteus up to or
beyond Littleton Island, and yet of that number 1,000 only
were left in that vicinity, the remainder being returned to the
United States or sunk with the Proteus. This was the pro-
vision that was made under your instructions for Greely's
arrival at Cape Sabine, although the ofificers in your depart-
ment connected with this subject again and again urged the
propriety of making large depots on the east side of Smith
Sound, and notwithstanding the fact that Lieutenant Greely
himself, in a letter addressed to you from Lady Franklin Bay,
bearh date August I5tii, 188 r, said: 'I feel it proper to
here state that, in my opinion, a retreat from here southward
to Cape Sabine, in case no vessel reaches us in 1882 or 1883,
will be safe and practicable,* thus foreshadowing to you — his
chief, charged with his relief — the very course that he subse-
quendy pursued with such indescribably terrible results.

"If strict obedience to orders be the highest duty of a sol-
dier, let Garlington have the credit which the court accorded
to him, of having faithfully executed yours, that the regret
over the fatal consequences to him and his expedition in hav-
ing done so may be in some degree assuaged with die reflec-
tion that, as a soldier, he could have done nothing else.
Pardon me if I express my surprise at your attempt, in your
memorandum of the 19th inst, to shift the responsibility of
Garlinvton's instructions from yourself to Greely. When the
court says Garlington carried out your orders, you in sub-
stance ansvver . They were Greely's instructions, not mine.*
Docs it not occur to you that the country may think if Greely
is to be responsible for the orders that issue from your high
office, that he should also enjoy its emoluments and dignities?

"Amid the expression of the world's admiration for the
heroic conduct of Lieutenant Greely and his courageous band,
the one word of reproof and criticism from his chief will be
an unexpected greeting to him emerging from the Arctic
night of suffering and starvation. " Lindon Kent."

'^n

CHAPTKR XXI.

• \i

w-hiiy.

i ''^

Ur.UTENANT RAYS EXPEDITION.

The Expedition of l.iciilcnaiit V. II. Ray to Point 15;irrow — His Letter to Geiuml Il.v.cn
— Return of Lieuti..-int Ray — Tlie Greely Parly left at Lady Franklin Hay liy tin; I'ro-
tcrs — Relief Expeditions sent out in 1882 and 1883 — They do not find the (Colonists—
Two Years on the Shore of Lady Franklin l?ay — All in fair health — Lieutenant Grccly's
Instructions to the Relief Vessels — The Provisions should l)e Cached near Cape Sabine
and at other Places on the East Coast of Grinncll Land — The Instructions not heeded
— Lieutenant (Jarlington's Orders.

The location of an observing party in Alaska was made
under the general power of the Signal Officer to establish
stations in the United States.

The Chief Signal Officer intrusted this expedition to the
charge of First Lieutenant P. H. Ray, Eighth Infantry. Lieu-
tenant Ray's party consisted of Acting Assistant Surgeon G.
S. Oldmixon, with three sergeants and eight subordinates.
Kis orders were to sail as soon as practicable from San
Francisco, and <. .tablish a permanent station near Point Bar-
row. Special instructions in regard to the meteorological,
magnetic, tidal, pendulum and other observations, and for the
collection of specimens for the National Museum, were placed
in his hands. He was informed that it was designed to visit
the permanent station by steam or sailing-vessel in 1882, '83,
and '84.

Ray's party sailed from San Francisco in the steamer
Golden Fleece, July iSth, 1881.

On the 15th of September he wrote to General Hazen from
Ooglaamie, Alaska:

•• Sir : — I have the honor to report that the expedition ar-
rived at this place on the 8th inst, and after a careful survey,
found the most suitable place for the station to be on the
northeast side of a small inlet, which I have named Golden
Fleece, about eight miles from the extreme northern point

(334)

LIEUTENANT RAYS EXPEDITION.

335

of Point Barrow, there beini*- no high land between here and
then;, and all the intermediate country being interspersed
with small lakes and lagoons ; the only high ground at Point
Barrow is occupied by an Indian village. The point adjacent
to Point Barrow, where Macguire, R. N,, had his observatory,
is, I am told, submerged during western gales. On the oppo-
site side of the inlet, about one and a half miles away, is the
Indian village of Ooglaamie, from which I have named the
observatory. The voyage has been a long one, and particu-
larly a trying one upon the party, as a heavy gale was
encountered off Cape Lisburne, driving us out of our course
to the north and west. And there will still be more or less
suffering before I can get quarters up, as the ground is now
covered with snow ; ice is forming rapidly on the mlet and
lakes, and the cargo was landed with extreme difficulty, as
it had to be done on an open beach; and for two clays, through
a heavy surf, which often half filled our boats in landing, the
spray freezing where it struck, and the vessel liable to be
driven out to sea at any hour. On the 12th a small wharf
was built, and that night fortunately, the wind and sea abated
and the balance of the cargo was landed on the 13th and 14th,
the natives rendering valuable assistance with their oomiaks.
Everything is now on the beach above high-tide mark, noth-
ing clamaged or broken of any importance, so far as I can
find out. It is utterly impossible for me to state now what
may have been omitted with the time I have got, as I cannot
detain the vessel for fear she may be frozen in before passing
Behring Straits ; I will only be able to check and correct as I
put my stores in the building. I have no changes to recom-
mend as to the members of the party.

"From what Professor Baird said to some members of the
party, I find that he expected me to procure specimens of
native arms, boats, implements, etc. As these are of value
to the natives they will have to be purchased in trade, and as
I have not a sufficient supply for that purpose, having only
taken enough to purchase fresh meat and to hire boats and
labor in landing, I respectfully ask that I may be instructed in
the matter.

" In my report from Plover Bay I mentioned the necessity
of the vessel next year sailing from San Francisco at an
earlier date than the expedition this year; the severe ex-
perience of the last fifteen days confirms my impressions of

fi'l

■l)<f '

ijir

33^

ATACTIC EXPLORATIONS.

that date. Have not seen the sun since I have been here. I
"•ive the latitude and longitude by dead reckoning from my
own log-book — latitude 71° 17' 50" N., longitude 156° 23' 4s"
W."

June 24th, 1882, Lieutenant J. S. Powell, U. S. A., sailed
from San Francisco in the schooner Leo, one huncirecl and
fifty tons burden, with supplies for the Signal Service Station,
Ooglaamie. At St. Michael, July 26th, Powell shipjx.d as
cabin-boy a native named Kan-u-arlj, to act as interpreter and
messenger. This was effected only after much persnasion.
The news of the loss of the Jeannette having already reached
the people, they seemed loath to venture abroad in the white
man's ships. "The simple native of these shores," says
Powell, " when he sees the mighty oomiaks of the wliite men
go away in the gloom of the mysterious North, refuses to
venture within the reach of the baleful power of the icy
North."

On reaching Behring Sea, a heavy gale from the north was
experienced, with weather too thick to make headway toward
the straits. The Leo for several days lay without sii;jht of
land or sun about four miles from the entrance of Plover Bay;
the fog clearing, she was towed up the bay by the United
States Revenue Cutter Corwin, Captain J. T. Healy, and again
brought out to sea by the same ship.

Tile ship lay at anchor three days at Port Clarence, and
thence passed through the strait and crossed the Arctic Circle.
On the 14th, Gape Lisburne was sighted under the experience
of another heavy gale ; but at 12 m., on the iSth, Powell was
in a calm, longitude 158° 50' W., latitude 71° 21' N., and at 8
of the same day a southeast breeze sprang up, which Powell
thought would quickly bear the ship to Point Barrow. The
next morning he was surprised to find himself considerably
to the northeast of it, bv the action of a strong northeast cur-
rent. On landing at the station, August 20th, Lieutenant
Ray confirmed the observations of this current, adding that
had it become calm, the Leo might have drifted to the north-
east and been crushed by ice ; the vessels caught in this cur-
rent move off to the northeast, and not a piece of timber ever
returjis.

Lieutenant Ray's party were recalled by a positive enact-
ment of Congress at its session of 1882-83. They arrived
in Washington in October, 1883.

LIEUTENANT RAYS EXPEDITION.

337

The Proteus left the Greely party on August i8th, 1881,
and arrived safely at St. John's, N. F., after a voypge in which
no disturbing incident occurred. The two relief expeditions
sent out in 1882 and 1883 returned without obtaining any
news concerning the party.

The Greely colony passed two years on the shore of Lady
Franklin Bay, near the extreme limit of Arctic exploration,
without suffering from accident or disease, although at times
tiie temperature was 61 degrees below zero. Several of the
colonists were frostbitten while making journeys eastward
and westward from the station,
but wiien the camp was aban-
doned, in 1883, the twenty-five
men were all in fair health.

Lieutenant Greely had for-
warded to Washington several
suggestions which ought to
have been carefully followed.
He knew that if the relief vessels
should fail to reach the station
his own journey southward
would be very difficult and per-
ilous. He expected that if the ,.
relief parties should not reach I
him they would at least deposit fk
additional provisions at sev-
eral places on the southern
half of his line of retreat. He •:^
sueeested that one of these de-

f>t>

LIEUT. I'KEDERICK F. KISLINGBURV

posits should be within a few
miles of the spot at Cape Sa-
bine where he and his com-
panions were found. They
were all to be on the west side of the channel or strait, t. e.,
on the east coast of Grinnell Land, for he well knew
that he might not be able to cross the strait to Littleton
Island and Lifeboat Cove. He further wrote that after
having established these provision depots on the west side
of the strait, and in case no vessel had reached the per-
manent station in 1882, the vessel sent in 1883 should
remain in Smith's Sound until there was danger of its closing
by ice, and on leaving should land all her supplies and a party
33

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338

ARCTIC KXPLORATIONS.

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at Littleton Island, which party should be prepared for a win-
ter's stay and should be instructed to send sledge parlies up
the east side of Grinnell Land to meet his party. If not
visited in 1882, he would abandon his station not later than
September 1st. 1883, and would retreat southward by boat,
following closely the east coast of Grinnell Land until the re-
lieving vessel was met or Littleton Island was reached. The
relieving party should Ueep their telescopes on Cape Sabine,
the very spot where the survivors were finally rescued, and
the land to the northward. Not only must these rescuers
carefully scan the western coast for the appearance of the re-
treating colonists, but they must from time to time send siedj^e
parties across the strait to Cape Sabine and northward from
that point. " Such action, from advice, experience and obser-
vation," said Lieutenant Greely, "seems to me all that can be
done to insure our safety. No deviation from these instruc-
tions should be permitted."

Wlicn the colonists left their camp they relied upon the pro-
vision depots at Cape Sabine so completely that they left
provisions sufficient for eight months in their cabin. As they
advanced winter set in. The ice robbed them of their boats
and at last cast them upon the west shore of Grinnell Land.
below Cape Sabine. They found no relief ship, no reHef
party watching for them on the other side of the strait, and
only a few rations. Two expensive expeditions had reached
that point, but the stores which should have been deposited
there had been carried back to the United States or had gone
down with the Proteus. It is evident that the lives of all, or
nearly all, of the colonists would have been saved if the re-
lief party of 1882 or 1883 had landed a sufficient quantity of
provisions on the west side of the strait at Cape Sabine, or
Payer Harbor, or near Bache Island. But Lieutenant Gar-
lington received in>':ructions to push his vessel through to
Lady Franklin Bay, and not to deposit provisions unless he
should fail to push his way northward through Kennedy
Channel. If he could not sfet through to the nordiward he
should retreat to Lifeboat Cove on the east side of the strait,
land his stores there and remain for the winter. He was then
to "lend sledge parties across the strait to Cape Sabine. Fol-
lowing instructions, he landed no provisions, but attempted to
push his way through and lost his vessel. If he had first de-
posited his stores at Cape Sabine, not at Lifeboat Cove, on

'■^- ll iillnl"

LIKUTENANT KAY S EXPEDITION.

339

the other side of the strait, in accordance with the sugges-
tions ot Lieutenant Grecly to General Hazen, they would
have been found by the retreating colonists and many lives
would have been saved.

ill

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CHAPTER XXII.

I.IKF, AT rORT CONGER.

The Life of the Colonists at Koit Conger — In Camp — Erecting a House — Scienliic oiiser

vations — Seif;i'ant ISrainanl Isstahlislns a I'cput of riovisions al Ca|ii: Ik-ci luy An

Arctic Winter — Mctcorolo^jicil Phenomena — Aurora Horeali-. — Tidal ni)servaii()iis—
Pastimes and Amusements — Amtrng the Floes — Difficult Traveilini,' over Ilumniocki ini;
on the Frozen Sea — Dr. I'avy, Serj^eaiit Rice, and Esiiuimau Jens Kdwards Uiideitake ji
Slod>;e Journey on ihe Frozen Arctic -A Wonderful Escape — Ciraphic Descrijiion ol
Strgeant Rice — Lieutenant Lockwood\ Journey to the Highest Point ever Reached—
Along the t^oast of (ireenland — Lockwood Island — Incredible Hardships.

Out of the twenty-five colonists left by the Proteus ;it Lady
Franklin Bay, but seven )ulcl be saved by the rescuing party
under the comnian i of Commander W. S. Schley, wliicii left
the harbor of New York in May, 18.S4.

The story of the life at Fort Conger, as told b\ Major
Greely and the other survivors, is most interestin*;, while
the record of their scientific observations and exjjlorations
adds greatly to our knowledi^e of a land hitherto almost un-
known, and the tale of their sufferings from hunger and cold
during the winter of 1S83 to 1884 is sad and harrowing in the
extreme.

After the departure of the Proteus, which conveyed the
colonists to Lady F"ranklin Bay, on August 25th, 1 881, the com-
mand lived in tents until September 2d, when the doiibl<'
house, which had been constructed in the United States, hav
ing been erected, was taken possession of. This afforded far
greater protection from the cold, as it was a house within a
house. It was divided into two main compartments, with a
small i^itchen between, the officers occupying one and the en-
listerl men the other of these two rooms. Cookintr was done
in common and all fared alike, messing in the quarters in
whicu they lived. The meals were : breakfast at eight, a light
lunch at eleven a. m. and nine ?. m., and dinner at four.

Their house was finished about a week after the Pioteus
left. It was named, in honor of Senator Conger, Fort Con-
ger. During the first month the cold affected the men more

(340)

Lllh A'i I'OR'J' CUNGKK.

341

than at auy suLsL-tiucnt time at Fort Conj^cr. Later on ia
UcccinUr ihc temperature sank to from tilly to sixty-five de-
crees below zero, antl so remained lor days at a time, but
oven ia tiiat vveatiier the c()t)k's lavoriie anuisemeiit was
danciii*'' bar -headed, bare-armed, and with shppered k:et on
ihc lop of a snow-drift. Durinjj^ the day rhe men dressed in
ortlinary outside clothing, but their llannels were very heavy.

ARCTIC RF.GION-ISKKCHKY HF.AD.

Five of the men were generally, for a part of the day, en-
i^^icred in scientific work under Lieutenant Grecly's direction.
Scientific observations had been commenced at once upon
landincj. and were continued without intermission until the
abandonment of the post. These were meteorological, as-
tronomical, and magnetic, comprising also the temperature of
sea-water, thickness of ice, and the direction and speed of the

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34=

ARC lie: i;XI'l,OUATI()NS.

tides. Major Grcely also conc1iicti:cl a s(;ri(;s of oxpcrinunus
on tlie velocity of sound at different temperatures.

The men not eni'^ag'ed in scitrntific work were eni|)|()\( ,|
generally about an hour a day, and devoted tlic n^maiiidcr of
the time in amusement. All slept in bunks. The quarters
were heated by a large coal-stove, die av(M'aoe heal main-
tained being fifty degrees above zero. Playing clicfkcrs,
cards, and chess, and reading were the amusements of the
evening. The life was said by Lieutenant Greely to be far
from a lonely one, and many of the men said they had never
passed two happier years than those spent at Fort Conoer.

On September ist, Kennedy Channel having opened, .Ser-
geant Brainard, in charge of a party in boats, establislit'd at
Cape Beechey a depot of supplies to be used in die projc^cted
exploration of North Greenland, and in November, twenty
days after the departure of the sun, Lieutenant Lockwood,
Sergeant Brainard, and seven men, with a sledge and do^j
team, attempted to cross over to Greenland to examine the
provisions left at the Polaris camp by Hall ; but the darkness
and drifdng ice prevented their success, and they were com-
pelled after much suftering to return, one of the party bein^-
badly frostbitten. It will be remembered that when tlie Pro-
teus left Lady Franklin Bay the number of dogs was much
reduced by sickness and death, but those left were carefully
looked after, and by breeding Major Greely was able in the
spring of 1882 to put two good teams in the field, and in
nearly all of his explorations the dogs were found most use-
ful and almost indispensable accessories.

On October 15th the sun left them for 135 days, and a twi-
light, varying from half an hour to twenty- four hours, suc-
ceeded. For two months it was so dim that the dial of a
watch could not be read by it. On April nth the sun came
above the horizon and remained there 135 days, giving the
party a great sufficiency of midnight sun. During three
months the stars were visible constantly, the constellations of
Orion's Belt and the Great Bear beincr the brightest. The
North Star looked down from almost overhead. Standiiiq;
alone outside the fort on one of these nights the scene was
weirdly grand. To the north flamed the aurora borealis, and
the bright constellations were set like jew^cls around the glow-
ing moon. Over everything was dead silence, so horribly op-
pressive that a man alone Is almost tempted to kill himself, so

LIFE AT FORT CONGER.

343

lonely docs he feel. The astronomer of tlie party said tliat
with tlie naked eye a star ol one cietrrtjc small(;r nuiL;iiiliidc
than can be seen here in tlie same way mit^ht be discerned.
The moon would remain in sight for Irom eleven to twelve
days at a time.

An aurora borcalis, as seen by the colonists at Upcrnavik,
is thus described by one of their nimiber:

"It fust appeared in an arch extendini^ from wcst-by-north
to northeast; but the arch shortly after its first ai)pearance
broke up and disappeared. Soon after this a new display
bc^an in the direction of the western foot of the first arch,
preceded by a bright flame, from which emanated rays of a
pale straw-color. Another simultaneous movement occurred
at both extremities of the arch until a complete segment was
formed of wavering perpendicular radii. As soon as the arch
was complete, the light became greatly increased, and the
prismatic colors, which had before been laint, now shone forth
in a brilliant manner. The strongest colors, which were also
the outside ones, were pink and green, on the green side
purple and pink, all of which were as imperceptibly blended
as in die rainbow. The green was the color nearest the ze-
nith. This magnificent display lasted a few minutes ; and the
light had nearly vanished, when the northeast quarter sent
forth a vigorous display, and nearly at the same time a cor-
responding coruscation emanated from the opposite extremity.
The western foot of the arch then disengaged itself from the
horizon, crooked to the northward, and the whole redred to
the northeast quarter, where a bright spot blazed for a mo-
ment, and all was darkness. There was no noise audible
during nny part of the phenomenon, nor were the compasses
perceptibly affected."

The long Arctic winter was necessarily monotonous, but
the regular routine of observaticns, coupled with such mili-
tary discipline as was not inappropriate to the climate and the
mode of living, rendered it more tolerable. One hour's
exercise daily was exacted of all. The men were required to
bathe once a week, and great care was taken by frequent in-
spection to see that the quarters and pardcularly the berths
were; kept clean. The efficacy of the hygienic arrangements
adopted is fully demonstrated by the fact that there was no
scurvy in the expedition, notwithstanding that the water used
was from melted ice invariably obtained from the floe.

1 ^1 m

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344

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

Thanksgiving and national holidays were invariably cde.
brated by a good dinner, and the first Christmas was ren-
dered pleasant by presents for every member of the expedi-
tion from unknown but thoughtful friends.

The thermometer registered on June 30th, 1882, the h'vjh.
est temperature at Lady Franklin Bay which we knew durinrr
our stay. It was fifty-two degrees above zero. The lowest
was in February, 1883, and was sixty-six degrees below zero.
In this February our mercury froze and remained solid (or
fifteen days, so intense was the cold. The mercury in the
thermometer invariably rose during storms or high winds.
The highest barometer was slightly above thirty-one inches
and the lowest slightly below twenty-nine inches, showin<>- a

ijreat ran^e.

The greatest variations were in the winter.

The electrometer, an instrument used to ascertain the pres-
ence of electricity, was set up, but to the astonishment of
Lieutenant Greely not the slightest results were obtained.
The displays of aurora were very fine, but not to be compared
with those seen at Disco Islan 1 or Upernavik. As lar as
Lieutenant Greely could observe, no crackling sounds ac-
companied the displays, and the general shape was that of a
ribbon. The southwesterly horizon was the quarter in which
the brightest displays were seen. Sir George Nares reported
in 1876 that no shadow was cast by the aurora, but Lieu-
tenant Greely says that he distinctly observed his shadow
cast by it. There were no electrical disturbances save those
manifested by a rumbling of distant thunder heard twice far
away to the north.

In the case of the tid il observations made, a very interest-
ing fact was discovered, viz. : that the tides at Lady Franklin
Bay come from the north, while those at Melville Bay and
Cape Sabine come from the south. The temperature of the
north tide is two degrees warmer than that of the south tide
at Cape Sabine. Why this was Lieutenant Greely would not
venture to state. He used in measuring the ebb and How of
the tides a fixed gauge, an iron rod planted in the mud. The
average rise of spring tides at Lady Franklin Bay was found
to be eight feet. At Cape Sabine the highest tides rise twelve
feet. Surf was only observed twice during the two years.
AtLady Franklin Bay the average temperature of the water
was twentv-nine decrees above zero, or three degrees bi low
the freezing point. Wolves weighing ninety pounds were

LIFE AT FORT CONGER.

345

killed around Fort Conq-er, and there are foxes and other
animals there. Of fisii there is a wonderful scarcity. Per-
haps the greatest surprise of the expedition was the taking
rrom Lake Alexander, a fresh water lake, fifteen feet above
the sea level, of a four-pound salmon. rVom the bay or sea
only two very small fish were taken during the entire two
years, and very few are to be found north of Cape Sabine,

The vegetation at Lady Franklin Bay is about the same as
at Cape Sabine, and comprises mosses, lichens, willows, and
saxifrage. Snow-storms are, of course, most frequent, and
rain falls very rarely. The highest velocity of the wind was
registered during a terrific snow-storm — seventy miles per
hour. Lockwood's trips to the north in 1882 and 1883 ^vere
productive of the most valuable results. Standing, on the
19th of May in each year, where Dr. Hayes had formerly
stood at about the same day, Lockwood, from an elevation of
2,000 feet, using his strong(\st glass on Hall's Basin and
Robeson's Channel, could discern nothing but ice-packs.
Here it was Dr. Hayes claimed to have s(M;n his open Polar
Sea.

Three memorable expeditions were luidertaken by the
Grcely party from their station at Fort Conger, on Lady
Franklin Bay. One was to the north, along the coast of
Grinnell Land, by Dr. Pavy and Sergeant Rice. The second
was also to the north, along the coast of GrecMiland, by Lieu-
tenant Lockwood, in which the point farthest north was
reached. The third was to the west, in the interior of Grin-
nell Land, by Lieutenant Greely. In the lirst expedition,
which consisted of Sergeant Rice, Dr. Pavy, and F2s(juimau
Jens, the party, after visiting a couple of caches that had been
previously deposited along the shore, left die land and trav-
elled in sledges over the frozen ocean, with the object of
qiettintr as far north as possible. The thrillinir incidents of
the journey were carefully noted and most graphically de-
scribed by Sergeant Rice in his diary. Nothing can more
clearly portray the difficulties and dangers that beset Arctic
travellers. The narrative is here given as found in the diary
taken from the unfortunate explorer's dead body:

"We travelled from floe to floe, through the bursting walls
of ice, slipping and falling on the slippery and uneven footing
at times and strufrirlinsf in soft snow at others ; extricating the
dogs that got caught up in the hummocks, and cutting with

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(346)

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AMONG THE FLOES.

347

axe through the most difficult passages ; raising the loaded
g|g(l(re over icy obstacles and lowering it — with insecure foot-
ing—on the other side. Then again we would stumble into
treacherous snow which had crevices and fissures, and from
which, standing thigh deep, we had the great^^st difficulty in
extncatin(>' the sledge and landing it again on hard ice. We
travelled over all the ground twice, it being impossible to
move at all with more than half our load ; and the hopeful
anticioation of reaching at last the eighty-fourth parallel, that
buoyed us up when Cape Sheridan was left behind, had given
way to a keen appreciation of the fact that if four miles per
day could be made it would be all we could expect. This
would place us at the highest latitude ever attained — for only
twenty-five miles of ice lay between us and Markham's farth-
est — and we had twenty days' rations still unconsumed ; but
the value of our trip was fast depreciating when we reflected
that the difference between the highest point we could reach
and that already attained could give us little expectation or
hope of unlocking any additional secrets of this mysterious

sea.

"We were at all times so beset and surrounded by hum-
mocks that a view of even the shortest distance could only be
attained by scaling a paleocrystic berg. After every short
advance of perhaps fifty or seventy-five yards we would seek
an elevation to ascertain where next an opening occurred.
Often Jens, descending from an icy pinnacle, would turn to
lis, and, withdrawing his hand from the mitten and liolding it
palm upward, would extend his separated fingers and shake
his head in a hopeless manner. Never, in all his existence
in the land of desolation, had his eyes met such a view. Our
observations from different points soon convinced us ll.at ad-
vance directly north from Cape Henry was impossible, but
the route across James Ross Bay toward Cape Hecla ap-
peared to be better.

"At 3 A. M., April 2 2d, after a dreary night — during which
our sleep was disturbed by the howling of the dogs as ihey
crowded against the tent for shelter from a strong southeast
wind that was blowing — we aroused and preps; ed to start.
The high wind of the night was followed by a strange bewil-
dering morning, the atmosphere in an indefinable condition,
which destroyed shadows and distorted heights and distances
in a strange manner. The way appeared smooth until our

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348

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

Stumbling, uncertain movements and false estimates of dis-
tances proved that our eyes could not be trusted. We care-
fully advanced — the conditions gradually becoming more
favorable — until, as we neared the shore at Cape Hccla, Jens
cried out: ' Emerk !' or, water ahead ! We paid no attention
to his remark, which we supposed referred only to sohk" tidal
crack or local affair, and were soon astounded to see before
us a belt of open water e.xtending the whole line of coast
from Hecla to Henry, and also as far as we could see toward
Cape Columbia. To the north also there was an open space
of water indica'ted by the heavy water clouds that luini^r ovei-
the place. The water in front of us was at least half a mile
wide, and ice of considerable weight and draught was sailino-
toward Cape Henry with the tide. The doctor, by planting
sticks and taking bearings on the land, soon proved that the
floe was pivodng and swinging from the shore.

"As usual, we had only half our effects on the sledge. We
deposited these and returned to our camp for the others.
Reaching the open water again, we found it had widened.
After watching for some time in hopes of a favorable change
in the movement of the ice, we decided that our only chance
of getting off the floe was at Cape Joseph Henry, where, from
our distant view, tiie ice appeared to touch the land. With
light sledge, selecting only our most valuable effects — or
rather those most necessary to our preservation — we started
for the cape, and by a very forced march arrived near there
at half-past four p. m. to find the water extending around
Cape Joseph Henry and also to the northeast as far as we
could see. We could do nothing more in any direction, and,
this part of the floe appearing most likely to connect itseh
with the land, we concluded to make it our headquarters and
keep in readiness to take advantage of the first chance for
landing. We melt some ice to quench our thirst, feed the
dogs, and then select the most substantial-looking part of the
floe — near the edire — where we can be close enoui:h for a
dash ashore should opportunity offer, and at the same time
safe from the possible breaking up of the margin of the ice.
It next occurred to us that our near future might be a stay of
months on the floe, in which case all our prov.'s;nns would not
be too much. The doctor and Jens fhcn started tc return to
the northern end of our track at Cape \-t)cli to bring that
which we had abandoned. Two only wr -e r quired to go

AMONG THE FLOES.

349

to go

over the broken road ; in fact, for all of us to go would re-
duce the chances for an occasional ride on die empty sledge
(Toin*'^ out. The writer was at the time rather heavily handi-
capped with a hand which had received a recent severe cut,
and stayed behind. As it was necessary that a look-out
shoukl be kept, I was to get some rest, so as to go on watch
on the return of my companions. They left me at 7 r. m.
The weather was then calm and pleasant. I had no shelter
(the tent was part of the load for which they had returned),
but as soon as I could give up the contemplation of our rather
unpromising surroundings I crawled into my sleeping-bag,
which I laici on the ice under the lee of a hummock.

"When I turned in the sky was fair, with the exception of
die heavy water clouds that hung to the north and west. I
do not know how long I slept, but wn^ awakened by the snow
driftin*^ in the mouth of my bag. I dragged myself out and
found it snowing and drifting violently. The wind, which was
evideiuly increasing, was from the north, and it at once
occurred to me that the storm was local, originating in the
water clouds that hung over the belts of water. My first
step was to look up our traps, so that no article might be
blown away or covered up. The small and light articles 1
tied to the heavy ones. I then looked about me, and admit
that I thouofht there was cause for alarm. The snow was
falling thickly and accompanied with a blinding drift off the
ice, so that to windward I could see only a few yards. In the
opposite direction the dark frowning front of Cape Joseph
Henry loomed up through the storm with an awful and im
posing appearance. Wishing to know if the pack had neared
the shore, I clambered up the fringe of hummocks on the
edcre of the floe, and saw that althoufrh the belt of water
separating us from land had diminished in width, it still
tornied an impassable barrier, showing up in inky blackness
through the storm. 1 could not see far, but could follow its
dark oudine some distance with the eye in the direction of
Conical Hill and to the eastward, where it was lost in the
storm, which enrobed everything in a white sheet.

" 1 became very apprehensive for the safety of the doctor
md Jens, as well as thinking my owi; situation rather critical.

'hey might become lost in the srotm and thus separated
'rem me, which might be a state c aFairs worse for them, as
the pack might be breaking up and leave them cut off both

'Ir

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I'l'

350

ARCTIC EXPLOR/ 'IONS.

:t ifa

from the provisions they had gone lor and those with me
The observation I made that the ice was moving out of James
Ross Bay did not add to my peace of mind. This was cer-
tainly the case, as the shore to the south around the cape
was opening up gradually, I could do nothing but hope that
the storm was local and would not be of long duration, and
that my unfortunate companions might not go astray before
i*- ceased. Being now about as cold from standintr in the
storm as I could very well bear to be, I emptied the snow
from the sleeping-bag and arranging the flap so as to keer)
out as much of the snow as I could, I crawled in but was
truly miserable; the snow was driven with such force as to
effect an entrance through the smallest openings. Tliai
which had entered at first, melted and then froze around m\
face and neck ; more drifted in, and, added to the physical
discomforts, my anxiety was too great to admit of rest,
Toward morning I fell into a doze. Occasionally lookinL;
out, I found the weather still stormy but improving.

"At a quarter-past four a,, m. I heard the dogs barking anci
turned out to find my comrades safely returned. They haii
been so fortunate as to reach the provisions and to start t('
return before the storm had attained a sufficient height to
prevent them. After that the wind was in their backs, and
the sagacious dogs faithfully following the tracks back, enabled
them to travel with greater celerity than could be expected
under such circumstances. They had had a very hard time,
however, and were completely tired out. We erected the
tent and prepared a meal, after which they turned in to sleep
while I took up a position on the top of one of the hummocks
at the edge of the floe. The morning had turned out a beau-
tiful one after the storm, which ended as quickly as it had
beijun. For some time I could note but little chanoe. but
was convinced that the pack was moving but of James Ross
Bay, as the land was opening up to view a»'Ound Conical Hill,
and Cape Henry was presenting a different phase. After a
few hours I was startled by the grinding, crushing noise of
the ice in contact with the shore or ice-foot some distance to
the west, inside the bay. It was evident that the pack had
swung so as to touch the land and I instantly awakened my
companions. They, poor fellows, had not been long asleep,
and I am sure that nothinsj less than the intelligence that diere
was a chance for escape would have induced them to over-

AMONG THE FLOES.

351

come their weariness. Wc repainjtl again to our outlook,
and alter concluding; that it was the ice antl land, not ice and
ice, which were in contact — the pack, so far as we could see,
was still unbroken — we hastily made preparations to land
before the opportunity was lost, if there was any.

"We quickly gathered up only what was necessary, leaving
tent standing, with provisions, clothing, alcohol and dog-
food, taking only sleeping bags, cooking apparatus and the
chronometer and sextant. We thought tliere might be a
chance to return for our other property, even if we could get
ashore, and perhaps the contingency which we entertained as
most likely was the probability of our return for a longer wait.
The thundering noise of the grinding ice did not promise a
very good portage. Jens, a little bewildered, drove rapidly
in the direction of the sound, which a[)peared to be from a
point about a mile inside of Cape Henry. As we neared the
place the terrific noise of the grinding pack increased so that
it was deafening, and our hurried remarks had to be shouted
in each other's ears. Drawing near to the edge of the ice
we found it undergoing a terrific pressure. The whole im-
mense pack was moving steadily and perceptibly out of James
Ross Bay, and at this point it was forced with tremendous
weight against the lofty ice-foot, which similar causes had
erected or strengthened for years. The ice-foot was forty or
fifty feet in height, presenting a rugged front of immense
blocks of ice cemented together, and its thousands of tons of
weight could only have been forced up in such a manner by
the mighty pressure of a frozen sea in motion. As we looked
the edges of die floe would break, where weak, against the
ice wall, and the pieces forced upward would be kept in
motion like jugglers' balls for a while and then tumbled down
into the narrow water space farther on where the (loe did not
touch the land, or landed on some ledge that gave them lodg-
ment. To cross amid this commotion appeared very danger-
ous : but would we ever have another opportunity?

Our consultation was carried on in shouts and pantomime.
We drew near a point where it appeared comparatively easy
to scale the ice-foot on the other side, and where the fallinsx
debris of ice could be perhaps avoided. To test the feasibility
of the passage, one of us dropped down to the lower level of
broken ice that was held together by the pressure, and pass-
ing almost completely over, returned quickly. Standing

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ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

below, I assisted the dogs c:3wn as they were forced over-
much against their will — by the doctor and Jens. Then the
doctor, exhibiting great strength, lowered the sledge, with its
light load, to the same level, Jens appeared to have lost his
head. The dogs stood trembling and would not move. I
took Redeye, the leading dog and the first to cross bad [)laces,
under my arm and tried to drag the others along. The
doctor was pushing the full weight of the sledge and jciis was
urging the dogs. The latter could not keep their tracers from
being caught upon the ice and I dropped Redeye to clear the
lines. The intelligent brute had low gained confidence and
began picking her own way, I next seized Howler, a dorr
near at hand, and in this way — the doctor propelling the
sledge from behind and Jens and I clearing the lines and
dragging the dogs — we succeeded in reaching the other side
to a ledge that gave me a secure footing, with the dogs all
around me, but the sledge with the doctor was still on dan-
gerous ground and no time was to be lost. I had an open
knife in my teeth with which to cut the dogs clear should they
become inextricably entangled, and it now came in use in
clearing the lashing of the sledge. lens unloosed the doers,
and, pulling them past me, they filed one by one up the slip-
pery steps which the rocks and projections of ice in the wall
afforded. From the top the animals looked down on us with
scared faces, some of them whining piteously. With great
difficulty I followed them, but when pari of the way up 1 dis-
lodged a large piece of ice which, striking me in the stomach,
carried me sprawling to the lower level, but fortunately not
falling on me.

"Another attempt was more successful. I carried the seal-
skin thong, and, reaching the top, pulled up, one by one, the
different articles that comprised our load and which the doctor
and Jens made fast to the other end. They next, after all the
load was safe, fastened the line to the sledge and joined me on
the top of th6 ice-foot when the sledge was pulled up after
them. It was ten a. m. While crossing we were so absorbed
as not to notice the motion of the ice, but I think it must have
stopped swinging for a moment, held by the pressure of the
pack, as we were strangely free from the falling blocks which
were in motion when we started across. Be that as it may,
our passage was very propitious, for as soon as we could look
about from our new and safe vantage ground we found the

AMONG 'IHE FLUES.

!53

pack still moving out with a j^reat noise from the terrible grind-
iiitr ani.1 friction. It appeared to touch only at one point and a
short distance in the bay. At Cape Henry's outward point
we could see the open water boiling- and eddying with the
tide which sweeps around this prominent point with great
rapidity. We knew the appearance of the particular floe on
which we had encamped, and soon got a view of our tent, bui
it was much farther out than Wi) exi)ected. The swinging of
the great pack was carrying it out (juite rapidly. Notwith-
staiuling our safety, it was fH»l pleasant to see our only shelter,
and with it all our provisions, iciuipments and hopes of
reaching the 'highest,' receding from our view on the frozen
ocean,

"It was a great disappointment. We had succeeded in
advancing our provisions and outfit to a point wiiich promised
us at least the satisfaction of attaining a hight.T latitude than
ever before reached. Of course this would have been but
a barren victory, for we knew that the terrible character of the
ice before us would not permit a sufficient distance to be made
to solve the question of presence of land to the north, and we
knew that our experience would only add to the opinion of
our |)redecessors' — that the frozen ocean cannot be traversed
by sledges, and of course not at all. Our hardest work was
over, the coldest temperature past, and to be stopped so near
the end of our journey was not pleasan^ When, however,
we looked down on the seething black water that separated
us from the field of our labors we could not deny that we were
fortunate in escaping when we did. We have nothing more
to do with an attempt to get north; nothing remains but to
return to the station. So states my sledge journal, and we
looked about lor a passage around the cape. We found it
practicable — very rough, but our sledge was now very light,
and it was better than going up the bay and crossing Fieldin
Peninsula.

"Satisfied with the outlook, we returned to the sledge, melted
r-'^me ice, and hitching up started for View Point, where our
first cache ot provisions was, and which we must re:ach before
we could get a meal. We arrived at View Point at 1 1 p. m.
The temperature was 49° at the time, and in fact the weather
had been comparatively warm after the open water occurred.
This made our first sleep in the bags without shelter very
pleasant. Next day, April 24th, we made another long step
23

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ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

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homeward. The ice seemed fast in Marco Polo Bay, so we
started across for Harley's Spit. It soon bct;an to snow
thici<ly. We feared losini,'- our way in the blindinj;- drift, and
camping on the ice was out of tlie question. The wind in our
faces was so biting that we could hardly advance against it.
The dogs could with difficulty be prevented from turnin('-
around. Our progress was slow, and I cannot recollect liav'^
ing had a more difficult march during our whole trip. Aft(M-
ten hours of such travelling we reached our old campino--
ground at Harley's Spit. On the eveming of April 26th we
were again at our snow-house on Lincoln Bay, our old depot.
We did not find the ice in the straits disturbed after leavinfr
Black Cape. We found the snow-house drifted full, which
gave us some trouble to make it habitable. We spent tlie
27th until evening in wandering about Lincoln Bay and look-
ing for a passage in the interior which Dr. Pavy thoii<rht
would connect with the valley of Wrangell Bay. At half-
past eight Jens had harnessed up, and we started alono the
ice-foot until we struck the dry water-course, and then tinned
up its bed toward the interior. We went through a narrow
pass which opened into another broad valley surroundtxl by
high, frowning hills. The sun shone out brightly at mid-
night, and the temperature was pleasant for travelling.

"Travelling- along next morninij, we fell in with a herd of
musk-oxen. They were very wild, and, apparendy taking
our dogs for wolves, they galloped off at great speed. As
we advanced, we found the water-course and openings all
trending to the interior and no outlet toward the shore. Our
backs were toward the coast, and as yet we could sec no
opening toward Wrangell Bay valley. After travelling about
nine hours we halted, left Jens with the dogs, and walked
ahead some distance to reach an elevation for a better view.
Finding no encouragement to advance, we came back to the
sledge tired and footsore, and turned in the sleeping-bai^s,
over which the amorous dogs made love and fought all night,
making sleep impossible, although the temperature was
pleasant — only 6}4° below zero. We started back to Lin-
coln Bay in the morning, so as to follow the coast line from
there home. In passing the place where the musk-oxen were
seen, I noticed that the vegetation was quite abundant for
that region. There was considerable tuft grass, and from
what could be seen I am convinced that the musk-oxen had

AMONG Tin: FLOF.S.

355

not mi;^rat(Ml, hut wintcrccl lu:n\ There was much snow n>
movcil, as if in Ljra/.iiv^. Wc arrived at J.incohi Bay on the
iQtli, where we ietl the doirs for only tlie s(;con(l time in fivo
Jays. Ill the eveninc,^ of the same date we were ai^ain on the
way home, following- along the coast lin(.'. Wn did not find
the ice disturbed at any j)laee afti-'r leaving l»lack Cape. As
wc anticipated, the disruption was at the northern t.-ntra-nce
of Robeson Channel, and bordering on the Polar Sea. The
ice in the straits remained intact, because more landlocked.
held beiwe(Mi the two shores. On May ist we were at depot
B, near Cape Beechey, and were able to learn something of
the movenKMits of the other party by the notes U'St in the
record-book by the travellers passing through.

" NV'xt day, after six hours' pieasant travelling over the
well-beaten track between depot B and Fort Conger, we
arriv(.'d at the latter place. As we neared the station, on
which tiie sun was shining brightly, with the Stars and .Stripes
waving gayly over it, we considered it very cheerful in ap-
pearance, and contrasting favorably with its desolate look
when last we saw it. In fact, the old station always looks
invitin<'' to returning travellers, altbou''h, as a human habita-
don, it may not be either elegant or commodious. We found
the quarters almost deserted. The Greenland party was still
out in the held, and the commanding officer, with a party of
three, had started a week before for the int(;rior. Of the
officers, only Lieutenant Kislingbury was at the station, Israel
lid Gardiner of the observers, and hve of the working party.
A breakfast of delicious musk-ox steak, washed down with a
bottle of wine, made us feel at home again. We could not
have procured the same viands in civilization that morning —
our appearance was too much against us. We should have
passed for tramps. With noses and cheeks scarified and
peeled by the frost, eyes red and swolbm with incipient snow-
blindness, hair unkempt, and beards half growm and bleached
nearly white, we were not lovely to look upon. Looking
over the records of the temperature at the station during our
absence, we found that the maximum for March was — 8.0;
minimum, — 46.6, and mean, — 29.9 — not so cold as was ob-
served in the field. The mean temperature for April was
—8.6; maximum, +13.9; minimum. — 42.1. Mercury froze
for the last time on April 3d, and rose above zero for the first
time on April 8th, making 160 consecutive days during which

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33 WEST MAIN S1REET

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14SS0

(716) S73-4S03

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ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

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the temperature was below zero. The weather at Fort Con
ger was now beautiful, and the dogs lay basking in the sun
enjoying their well-deserved rest. The travellers were also
enjoying the change ot" life which returned sledgers only can
appreciate. Never did our beds seem softer, our fare so ex-
cellent, or a bath so welcome."

The most important of the undertakings by cx|)l()rincT
parties from Lady Franklin Hay was the journey of Lie ntcir.
ant Lock wood to the north, along the coast of Greenlaiul. In
it he attained at Lock wood Island the highest point of the
globe yet reached by foot of man, and looked off on the
frozen ocean beyond for some twenty-five or thirty miles
more. No land was visible to the north or northwest, but to
the northeast could be descried a cape jutting out fnun the
coast, which will probably prove to be the northernmost j'oint
of Greenland. The expedition, after incredible hardships,
returned to Fort Conger on June ist, 1883. after an absence
of two months. The North Greenland sledginr; party, as it
was called, were only turned back from proceeding farther
by the drifting ice of the Polar Ocean, after tliey had narrowly
escaped being carried out to sea. An account of their adven-
tures and discoveries is given by Sergeant Rice in his inter-
esting diary. The writer says he is indebted to Sergeant
Brainard, who accompanied Lieutenant Lockwood, for most
of his information, which Sergeant Brainard's admirably kept
sledge journal amply afforded. " In fact," says Sergeant
Rice, " the record of many intelligent observations and inter-
estincT details are lost siijht of in this account, in which I con-
fine myself to a record of the principal features of their expe-
rience and a comprehensive connection of the same. To do
this, I have laken notes from the sledge-journal, and have
been assisled by the gossip of the sledgers, with which the
quarters were of course rife after their return." The narra-
tive is here given in Sergeant Rice's own language, than
which none could be more appropriate :

"On April 3d the main party, bound for North Greenland,
left the station. They pulled out of Shift Rudder Bay on the
evening of the 5th, intending to travel by night and sleep
during the warmest part of the day. The outfit consisted of
one dog-sledge, with team and driver (Fred), and four Hud-
son Bay .sledges (toboggans). To the former Lieutenant
Lockwood and Sergeant Jewell were attached, while the

LOCKVVOODS JOURNEY.

157

Hudson Bay slcdsres were manned by Rrainard, Ralston,
Sal<:r. Micderbeck. Mlison, Fredericks, Henry, Wliistler, Lynn,
aiul Coniiell. Two of the- sledi^es were pulled by three men
each, and two were drawn by two men each. The party
follovvetl tile northern Bend of Shift Rudder Bay until Cape
Ikcchey was r«.'achcd, after which they struck across for tlie
Grcdland shore. At the end of the first march they went
into camp on the ice, erectin;^ their tents. This day's halt
was hardly a rest, for th(*y found their sleepiiio-bag^s frozen
into the semblance of sheet-iron casings. Only by gradually
introducing their bodies to thaw out the bags by degrees
could they envelop themselves. Their position on the ice a
few miles from shore was very exposed and unsheltered.
The temperature was — 47 degrees. Sleep was an impossi-
bility to most of the travellers. Morning brought its changes.
Henry, afflicted with rheumatic pains, was compelled to re-
turn home, and Connell, with a frozen foot, was carried in
the dog sledge to the shore to follow him. The main party
kept on across the straits, Jewell taking the place of one of
the men who had returned, and ':he place of the other being
supplied by 'doubling up.'

"Ajiril 7th. — They are still toiling over the rough highway
of the straits, the travelling at most times execrable. Strug-
idling through places where the ice was of the worst descrip-
tion, where their sledges were continually being overturned,
alternating with patches of deep snow, they found themselves
on a paleocrystic floe, where the conditions for travelling were
much more favorable. Here! tiiey again camped. The wind
was blowing violently ; temperature — 29. Cooking under the
circumstances was very difficult, as the small tent, violently
agitated by the wind, precipitated a constant fall of the rime
that was condensing on its sides and roof, damping the spirit
lamp and the spirits of the cook. The inmates of the sleep-
in;^r-ba<4S were not exempt from the inconvenience; of the min-
iature snowstorm, for it showered upon every barefaced ex-
posure and insinuated itself in the mouths of the bags. At 9
r. M. the party is again under way. A snowstorm coming on
during the night had so incn^ased as to force them into camp
at 2 A. M. of the 8th, before completing the allotted number of
travelling hours. Biederbeck and Saler, drawing a toboggan,
became detached from the main body, and attempting to fol-
low the tracks of the dog sledge lost sight of their compan-

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ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

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ions. The storm comin<T on with blinding drift hid tiu-m from
their surroundinii^s. The main party campinj^, iWainard
started to look them up.

" They were soon foimd on the same lloe with the encamp-
ment. Brainard's arrival was most opportune. Tiicy were
makincr preparations to pass *;he day as best they could. A
hole was already burrowed in a snowbank which, wlili a rub-
ber blanket held at their backs, was their sole protection
against the storm. The waifs were soon guided to their
companions. The storm increased so that Lynn's tent, only
ten )ards away, could not be seen from the other tent. The
tempiM'ature in the tent was — 9 while the meals iveu- lieiivr
cooked. All day the storm raged, at times the wind hlowinrr
at the rate of sixty miles an hour. On the 9th the party are
still stormstayed, and their misery must be imagined. Tlie
drifting snow had so pressed in the sides of the tents that the
travellers were curtailed of the small space which their cover-
ing generally affortiecl them. The wind appeared to be from
the southwest. Later it veered, and at 8 p. m. had sufficiently
moderated to admit of a start being made. The temperature
had risen and stood at zero. This was the first night of the
season on which the travellers saw the sun above the hori-
zon at midnight. They reach Cape Sumner on the loth, and
halt at the boat camp.

"This is the camp occupied by the party from the Polaris
who attempted to get north by boat. Their abandoned boats
and tent still remain as left when the attempt was givc;n up,
Our party ftnmd the location a very uncomfortable place. At
7 A. M. their tents were erected, but were soon after blown
down and the ridge pole of one broken. Their shelters were
aiiain raised, and the sides of the canvas weiohed down with
provisions. At 5 p. m. the tent occupied by Brainard and
his companions was again blown down. They began to
make an excavation in the snow, but it was six hours before
it was suitable for occupancy. In the confusion attendini,'^ the
collapse of the tent the allowance of alcohol fuel for cooking
the evening meal was spilled, so the cold travellers went sup-
perless to bed — or to bag. At a quarter to 10 p. m. Lieu-
tenant Lockwood arrived with the clog team. He had sep-
arated from his party on the first morning of the storm, and
had been snowed up for two days.

"April nth. — The party occupied three tents, Lieutenant

LOCKWOOD S JOURNEY.

359

Lockwood, Jewell and Esquimau Fred in one and the main
party occupying the two larger ones. During the time Ser-
jeant Brainard and his tent mates were unhoused, although
sincerely sympathizing with their neighbors, Sergeant Lynn
and his companions did not refrain from some badinage a:
their expense. An old proverb was aptly illustrated, how-
ever, when this morning their canvas was lifted bodily from
its fastenings and carried some distance, leaving the aston-
ished occupants completely exposed in their sleeping-bags.
It was now their turn to dig in the snow for several hours.
Life in these dug-outs in the snow was almost the acme of
misery. The atmosphere soon became unwholesome, breath-
iiifj was difficult and matches would hardly burn, so com-
pletely was the air mephitized. The sleeping-bags were damp
from the melting of the snow which had been driven into
them. One of the men fainted and another was suffering
very much from the effects of the cold, and most of the party
were afflicted with frozen or burned fingers. The outlook on
the morning of April 12th was not very encouraging for the
success of the party. The weather had indeed improved, and
tiiey were enjoying the pleasant temperature of only — 3, but
they found that their Hudson Bay sledges were about
played out. They were totally unfit for such work. Thtr
tents were used up, and the sleeping-bags uninhabitable in
the condition they were. Two of the men — Whistler and
Biederbeck — were sent back home because of their illness.
On this day the party go down the coast to Gap Valley for
the caclie placed there by Dr. Pavey in March, and return to
the boat camp after seventeen hours' continuous work.

"The 13th gave the travellers very pleasant temperature,
and the sleeping-bags were exposed to the sun to evaporate
some of the moisture. One of the Polaris' boats was riofhted
and placed in a position to contain the provisions to be left
for use when returning. In the afternoon Lieutenant Lock-
wood started back to the home station with dog team and
driver to procure a new sledge runner. Main party under
Sergeant Brainard go to Cape Sumner, south, for the provi-
sions there ; camping-place still at boat camp. By April
14th the tents have been repaired and are again occupied, but
also again thrown down by the gusts of wind which appear to
have been inseparable from this locality. The sudaen gusts
of wind would draw down the rocky declivities, detaching

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ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

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stones and masses of snow in such a manner as to raise; their
apprehensions of even greater misfortunes than the discom-
fort the cold wind caused them. Brainard notes an especially
remarkable sight he witnessed when a large body of snow
starting from a high elevation among the rugged cliffs, came
pouring down like a cataract of foam. It was a perfect snow-
cascade, leaping from rock to rock like a mountain stream.
Next day is spent at the boat camp making preparations for
starting nortli from this point.

" Lieutenant Lock wood returns from Fort Conger and biinfrs
some small articles of clothing and letters from their com-
rades. The latter were very welcome, and served to anuisc
and interest the unhappy travellers more than one who jias
not been similarly situattxl can understand. On the i6di the
wind is strong. The Hudson Bay sledpes are repaired;
one completely worn out is abandoned. This increased the
weight on the others, so that the weight on one sledge was
at least two hundred and twenty pounds to a man. At
twenty-four minutes past lo r. m. the party have pulled out
from the boat camp and are plodding across Newman Bay,
headed for the ' Gap Valley ' — not * Gap,' which is south of
them. April i 7th finds them in the * Gorge,* which they en-
tered from the Newman Bay side and by which tiiey intended
to travel overland so as to cut short the projection of land at
Cape Brevoort, Temperature at midnight is — 9, light snow
falling and the .sun above the horizon. The i8th was a very
trying day, and every one was completely exhausted after the
march, which was attended with worse travelling than they had
yet encountered. The snow was lying deep, and over it
there was formed a crust just strong enough not to bear.
Through this the feet and sledges broke at every step.

"April 19th. — The travellers are still tramping overland to-
ward Repulse Harbor. The Hudson Bays are maimed for
thirteen consecutive hours. It is a significant fact that the
dorr sledjTfe could travel over the same frrounci in four iiours.
On the 20th only about four miles were made. The travel-
ling in the valleys, the coast not yet reached, presented a new
feature on the 21st. The deep snow was succeeded by
patches of bare ground and gravel beds over which the
sledges could only be dragged by standing pulls. The fol-
lowing day they enter Repulse Harbor by the valley through
which the watercourse empties, and grope their way down the

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LOCKWOODS JOURNEY,

361

dryj2[orge to the bay with little knowledge of their where-
abouts or surroundinrrs.

"Tlicy stumbled blindly on until the nature of the travelling
indicated that they were once more on the coast or an arm
of the sea. The storm forced the party into camp. To go
into camp does not, however, always secure rest or comfort
to the Arctic sledger. Our litde band were busily occupied
for two hours before their tents were sufficiently secured to
insure their not being carried away by the storm. Then the
trials of the cook — a miniature snowfall showering on his
heaa, down his back and over his lamp and utensils, and
these latter burning the hands whenever they arc touched,
until the sputtering lamp raises them to a higher temperature.
I cannot do better than transcribe from I3rainard's journal
an entry made on this occasion : * Siiorty ' is cook. After
the tent is closed up he finds that the fuel (alcohol) is outside
under a huge snow-drift, which covered the side of the tent
and completely closed the entrance, making it necessary for
him to tunnel his way through to the outside. Here new
obstacles intervened: the alcohol is four feet under the snow
and the shovels all covered up. But he manfully digs away
with his hands, occasionally stopping to utter anathemas on
Arctic work generally.*"

On April 24di the travellers are winding their way along
the shore to the northward, with Repulse Harbor behind
them. On the 25th Fred, the dog driver, is sick and unable
to take his accustomed place behind the traces. He guides
the dogs by wielding the whip from the top of the load, on
which he has been placed. The party is near Cape Stanton.
The travellers encamped to-day on a more northerly point on
the coast of Greenland than had ever before been attained
by Americans. They were enjoying fine weather, the indirect
effects of which are indicated by a humorous allusion in Brain-
ard's diary to Fredericks* proficiency in snoring. I do not
think the circumstance would have been noticed at any pre-
vious stage of the journey.

On April 26th the cache of provisions left by Lieutenant
Beaumont is discovered and found to contain forty rations in
good condition. The red heart rum was especially well pre-
served. The travelling was good and the prospects bright-
ening. I find Brainard extolling in an unqualified manner
the maps of the coast as laid down by the British expedition.

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ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS,

April 27th. — SkirtinjL; along the coast the party passed
Hand and Frankfield Bays. Cape Bryant, their m.xt obii c-
tive point, stands out bold and invitinj^, apparently but a short
distance ahead. A cynic would say, however, had he i:v(i
travelled in the Arctic, that with the exception of a woman
nothing is so deceiving as an Arctic landscape. Here dis-
tances cannot be very correctly estimated by the eye. Our
travellers stepped out hopefully, but hour after hour tluy
plodded on without perceptibly diminishing the distance.
Quite tired out, the camp is at last reached. The tempera-
ture is — 15. The ind'-ruigable PVedericks, affectionately
called "Shorty" by his comrades, freezes his fingers while
lashing up the broken ridge-pole of the tent. The outlook
of tiie party was now becoming very encouraging, about
twenty-five miles having been made in the last two tlays and
the travelling ahead apparently very good. To the north-
ward Cape May and other |)rominent points presented a fine
view. This day a small covey of ptarmigan were faih-n in
with and Esquimau Fred killed five. The 28th was j)assed
as a day of rest, preparatory to the final dash of the advance
party and the return of the supporters. The clear weather
afforded the party a fine view of Cape Britannia and St. An-
drew's Bay, from which latter place the English party were
forced to return.

April 29th the party separated, Lynn, Jewell, Ralston, Eli-
son, Fredericks and Saler starting back for Boat Camp, and
Lieutenant Lockvvood, Brainard and Esquimau Fred con-
tinuing on to the north. With the supporting party we have
now nothing to do. They had performed their work well
and faithfully through the worst, and deserve the highest
credit for it.

We will now follow the fortunes of Lieutenant Lockwood
and his companions. After the good-byes and handshakings
were over — good-byes that in this case had the appropriate
accompaniment of tears from at least three of the party who
were greatly affected with snowblindness — the dogs were
directed across St. George's Fiord. They had rations for
dogs and men for twenty -five days, which, with moderate
good fortune, should enable them to trace a great di tnnce
of coast line and place them at a far higher point than had
ever been attained on the Greenland continent The party
camped at one a. m., dogs very tired. Brainard is suffering

LOCKWOOI) S JOURNEY.

363

from snow-blindness and essays to find relief by poulticini^ his
eves with tea leaves. Snow laid so heavy that two loads were
inacle and t^^round travelled over twice. May Day under such
circumstances ! The weather is very warm and at midiiii^iit
the temperature is — 27 degrees, iccompanied by wind. This
was tiie first occasion on which die temperature was at the
tree/ing point of water in the tent since they started out.
The snow becoming worse as they k(;pt in the bay, Lieutenant
Lockwood decides to head directly for Cape Britannia instead
of Cape May, as at first intended. Lines of ice hummocks
skirted the fiord at intervals.

On May 3d, when near Cape May, Lieutenant Beaumont's
farthest, they found that a tidal crack of considerable extent
had opened up, Th.is offered an opportunity for deep sea
sounding, of which the travellers at once availed themselves.
Four hundred and twenty-four feet of line, 240 of sealskin
lashing and some rope — in all 820 feet — was lowered with
the lead. No bottom. The whip was then added, but the
weight failed to reach soundings. In pulling up the line it
parted and all except the whip and seventy feet of rope was
lost. On May 4th our travellers are nearing Cape Britannia,
their Ultima Thule heretofore. They have alrc^ady passed
Lieutenant Beaumont's farthest. At seven w m. Capt* Britan-
nia is reachedj and the American Hag enthusiastically raised
over land never before trodden by man. Lieutenant Lock-
wood now made his first observations for latitude and longi-
tude, and found, as near as he could compute it, that the
position given to chat point by the Nares map was correct,
although the expedition did not reach the place. The travel-
lers ascended the cape, which they found to be about 2,700
feet high, and affording a fine view. Britannia appeared to
be an island, and was not the termination of Greenland, for
they could see unknown land extending to the northeast.
Lieutenant Lockwood, inspired with an explorer's ardor, indi-
cated to the driver, Fred, a prominent point on the new land
to tlic north, and promised him a reward of 100 krons — cur-
rency with which Fred was familiar — if he succeeded in get-
ting his dogs that far.

After leaving Cape Britannia the travelling was good. On
the 5th the party heard the grinding of the ice in the distance.
While lashing the sledge Fred told Brainard he thought the
ice outside was moving. A tidal crack 100 yards wide was

364

ARCTIC I'Xri.ORATIONS.

seen. Thry travelled Insiilc ol this over the enilnyd or
landlocked ice, wiiicli tlid not ap|)<'ar to have l)(<'n iuokcn

for many years. May r.ili il„.

dot^s were

ravcnoii', ihai
they actnally chewed up i|„.
wooden casing ol" die d,,.,.,
inonieler. 'Iliis was sli(>\\iivj
almost as miidi (onicinid lor
scii-nce as did " Kiny." ol (mr
team, when he aj»|)(are(l lo
mistake one ol' those nidi.
nary thermal instniuK iiis for
a hviji'ometer. i'enipeintiMc
+ 6.''

Onr travellers were now en-
joyino- t\\v. satisfaction ot lol.
lowing a coast lino never he-
fore seen. New points were
reached from time to tiim.
The coast was formed of a
rapid succe; 'on of project ions
and capes, with inlets and l);ns
of more or less depth iiiterveii.
ino. A prominent point, wliic h
they calletl Hiack C'a|)e, was
passed this day, and they caniped on the morninj^ of the 7th
at a smaller point a little farther on, wiiich was did)l)e(i Kah-
bit Point, because of the killino ol a har(; as they were eoiii!'
into camp. Animal life did not ajii)ear less abundant !,< re
than farther south. Traces of musk o.xen, not fresii, an<l
two ptarmi<;an were seen. On the 8di the little party passed
the mouth o\' another fiord and arrived at Distant Cape.

[These names arc descriptive, beino- some su<^q;esiive titles
which have since, in the projection of the luap, l)een su|)|)i(.'-
mented by a more lastino- appellation which I shall adc!, paren-
thetically, to the former.]

We will not follow the explorers closely at this part of their
journey, but state that from the 8th to the T3th of May they
continued to advance alonsT this new coast line, reachiiie- new
points at every march and sometimes passing- several in one
day. Dome Cape (Cape Nijkander), then Cape Mohn, were
passed — the last mentioned is in latitude 83 deg. 10 min.

LIFAITKN AN r JAS. 11. l.DCKWtU)!).

IX)CKW()()I)S jOUKNIiY.

3^>5

Tlu'V th<*n crosstrd a lar^^*: (iord (Mi'i,L(,!L;s) and rcacln*! (!ap(;
Sloriii (I loHiiH.'yi'r). The coast liin; trciidcd lo the iiorllirast
and cadi cape, until passed, c()inj)lel(;Iy hid tlu; next from
view, riu: traveUin-^ was very _L;()od ; tiieir h)ad was dfcreas-
jiic at ev(;ry march and ra|)id proLjrctss was Ixrin;^^ made each
ihy. I'Vom Shoe Ishmtl (Mary Murray Island) they start<:d
01) the i.lllii iind in out; loni; marcii — Shoe Ishin(l is in latitude;
,Sj dcn^. 19 min., longitude 42 tU'.'j^. 21 min. — j)as'>ed " Wild
I'iord." liumnjock Capt; (Cape K. I. Dodt^^e), W«:ypr(;cht In-
let, " I'yramiil Island" (iirainard Island), and reach(;d th<:ir
jartliest at twenty-live minuti^s to tw«'ive i'. m. of the same dat(\
It was snowin-jj hard at the time ami a strong; wind was hlow-
jnir. Lieutenant Lockwood here decided lo j)r )ceed no
lartlxM*, hut, alter sto|)|)in;^ '""K^ enouiLjh to take a s(;ries of
observations to determine his position, to start on the return
journey. The party had made six marches from Cape Hritan-
nia. It was thirte(;n days since they had left Cape Bryant,
aiul as they wen; provisioneil from the latter point with only
twenty-live days* rations, half or more was already consumed.
At 10 A.M., May 14th, the storm ceased and the observations
W(;re taken, afl(;r wliich a cairn was built and souk; specimens
of tiie vei^etation, chiefly lichens, and rock colUxted. To ob-
tain observations for ecpial altitudes it was necessary to remain
over till the next day, the 15th.

Aft(;r takinjjj said observations Lieutenant Lockwood and
Scri,^(.'ant Hrainard ascended the highest elevation on the cape
they iiad reached to obtain a view to the northward. They
attained an elevation of 2,600 to 3,000 feet in heii;ht, and
could see to the northeast, distant about eitjht miles, another
ca|)e (Kane). The intervenini:; fiord (Conii^er Inl(;t) appeared
to connect widi the one to the south of them (Weyprecht),
thus making of the land on which they stood an island. Hack
to tile eastward of them a mountain (Mount Howgate) about
<our thousand feet high intercepted the view. Farther to the
northeast, beyond Cape Kane, could be seen another point
of land. It appeared to be distant about fifteen miles. This
has since been named Cape Robert Lincoln, and the opening,
between it and Cape Kane, Hunt Fiord. The explorers could
see nothing more; to the northward of this last point. The
horizon was hazy in that direction, and they are unable to say
if the low blue streak they saw in the distance was land or
only some atmospheric phenomenon. They incline, I believe,

J.F

:n> f

366

ARCTIC EXI'LORAIIONS.

to the latter opinion — probably a low cirrus clouil (jr the
evaporation from a tidal crack. Should it be land it appears
to luivt' taken a direction more directly north than the coast
tiiey had disovt^red. Out upon the Polar Ocean to tli( nonl,
their view was more extended, includint^, so they iiiin|<, a
ran<i^e of sixty miles. The ice was of a very rough, forhiddjnu
character, ofltTini; no chance for travelling, and no land coiilil
be seen. Looking eastward into the interior nothing mox the
eye but a confused mass of snow-capped mountain peaks ancf
hills, the coast badly broken up by fiords.

They now descended to the tent and packed up, after which
the dogs were turned homeward. The travellers W(.'re now
indeed glad to think that every step placed them nearer Iiomk;,
albeit that home was only a rude Iiabitation on the shores
of (irinnell Land. A rough reduction of his observations
showed Lieutenant Lockwood that he and his com|)anions
had reached the highest point on our globe yet attaineil. The
observations have since been carefully computed by Israel,
our astronomer, and place the " farthest " at latitude <S3 deg.
24 min. north, longitude 40 de^. 46 min. west. It is interest-
ing to know that at this northern point of Greenland traces
of animal life were as frequently met with as at any oilier
part of the coast. Tracks of foxes, hares, lemmings and
ptarmigan were noticed. The question of whether this coast
still furnishes a route much nearer the Pole or ends in the
nortliern extremity of the continent of Greenland at a point
not far from that reached by this expedition, still remains un-
settled to vex the enterprising spirits of those who cannot
rest until their feet have been placed on the northern axis of
this globe.

The return journey was monotonous and uneventful. The
travelling was, of course, tiresome. The temperature; had
become long before this very agreeable, but the unpleasant
result was that the snow became much softened. On the
2 1 St of May our travellers had Cape Britannia again to the
north of them. They found the tidal crack closed and ce-
mented by ice which was strong enough to bear a man. On
the 2 2d, travelling across St. George's fiord, many snow bun-
tings were seen and numerous fox tracks were observed.
There was a severe snow-storm here, so thick that a compass
was in requisition all the time. This storm was preceded by
a perihelion, which Brainard states exceeded in beauty any

I.OCKWOODS JOURNEY.

i(>7

of tliosc phenomena which he had hcforc seen. It cxliihilcd
bcaiiiitiil prismatic colors and formed in contact arclics and
coiu< lUric circles. On the niorniniLC ^' ^'^^- 24th Cap(! liryant
vas readied, and the sledgers found their cache in j^ood
order and were able to replenish their stock of provisions,
whicli was so depleted that nolhint^ r(;niained on the sledj^e
except four ounces of t(;a, half an ounce of onion powder and
a handful of cracker dust. The doi^s wen; almost starved, as
will ajjpear by the fact that Uiey obtained acc(.'ss to a small
quantity of shotgun ammunition and actually gnawed thecart-
j.j(l,^r(;s — probably because of the grease on the watls — sending
their teeth through the metal of at least a dozen of them. At
Cape Bryant soundings were taken through a tidal crack
about a quarter of a mile outsiile the cape, and the bottom
found at 1 14 feet. Thcry used the line left on tlie outward
trip. At this time snow-blindness was making it very un-
pleasant for the travellers. Tl»ey left Cape Bryant on May
26th and killed another ptarmigan on the way. Four miles
south of the cape they found the cache of outfit discarded b)
Lieutenant Beaumont's party when an attempt was nrdfXv. to
cross the straits. On the 27th our travellers changed their
moccasins for sealskin boots, the snow being damp enough
to wet their feet. They are on the west side of Repulse Har-
bor on the 28th, and find another cache and record left by
Lieutenant Beaumont. On May 29th they an* at lioat Camp
with the men who were awaiting their return, antl the whole
party cross the straits and arrive at the home station on June
1st. Two or three of the party were suffering very much
from snow-blindness, and during the last march Ralston had
to be led.

'• '

);■■!:

\iim

lii -'!''!' i"

: A ■> H

S'.!-|^! -.It,:.. I

i^i^:

^1 ^JJ ;!

i'vlri?

IML

'. J, V

f» Ij

ft,.i:h

:rl:'^!i

:tl,li!!l

CHAPTER XXIII.

NEAR THE NORTH POLE.

Animal Life and Vegetation of Grinnell Land— Major drecly's Journeys into the Interior
of CJiinnclI Land — Wondi-rful Natiir.d I'hcnomena — A (Ilr.ciei- liursls — JoiirnaliMii Near
the Norih Pole — The Arctic Mi)on — Amuscniciils and Pastimes of tlie Kxploiers.

Animal life was abundant, with scant vegetation slmilai
to tiiat met with in Grinnell Land. Traces of hares, lem-
mings, ptarmigan and snow bunting, and the tracks of a bi;ar,
were seen, and droppings of the musk ox as far as twenty
miles north of Cape Britannia. Looking to the northeast-
ward from an elevation of about two thousand feet, the land
was seen for about fifteen miles, the farthest point. Cape
Robert Lincoln, being in about latitude 83 deg. 35 min., and
longitude -58 de '^rees west. Aldiough the weather was un-
usually clear, no other land could be seen, the lorizon beini;
e.xamined carefully to the northward and northwestward. On
the 15th they started south, picking up en route the union
jack and sextant left by Lieutenant Beaumont, of the Nares
expedition, during his extraordina»-y retreat with a scurvy-
'otricken party in 1875, and, rejoining the three men who had
remained at Cape Summer, Newman Bay, the combined
party returned to Fort Conger, where tluiy arrived on June
1st, after an absence of fifty-nine days, all in good condition,
except that two of the supporting party were snow-blind and
had to be led into camp.

Game was abundant, more than one hundred musk oxen
being seen, besides hares and birds. From the summit of
Mount ArtluM* Major Greely, who was alone able to make
the ascent, was satisfied from the trend of the mountains and
the appearance of the country that Grinnell Land ended but
a short distance tc the westward, and that its coast line must
run nearly southwest from the extreme point reached by
Lieutenant Aldrich, Royal Navy, in 1876. The sledging sea-
son over, travelling by land was almost impracticable, but
early in August Major Greely went to Cape Dcfossc in the
(368)

NEAR THE NOR'IH POLE.

369

he Interior
;»!isin Near

I CVS.

simiKii
cs, 1cm-
: a bear,
> twenty
)rtheast-
:hc land
It, Cape
nin., aud
was iin-
n beino
rd. On
c union
Nares
scurvy-
A'lio had
)nibined
on June
ndition,
[lintl and

Isk oxen
limit of
fo make
bins and
M but
Ine must
:hecl by
jrinir sea-
[bl('. but
in the

steam launch and found Kennedy Channel perfectly clear of
ice throiij.rhoiit its whole extent.

The following is a statement of the game killed by Lieu-
tenant Greely's party in the region adjacent to Lady Franklin
Ikiy during their long stay in the frozen North :

August, 1881 — 16 musk oxen, 1 hare, i ptarmigan.

September, 1881 — 5 wolves, 10 musk oxen, i seal.

February, 1882—7 hares.

March, 1882 — 1 lemming, 4 hares.

April, 1882 — I fox.

May, 1882 — 2 lemmings, 3 musk oxen, 5 seals, i hare.

June, 1S82 — i wolf, 4 lemmings, 18 m"sk oxen, i seal, 11
hares, 17 king ducks, 6 long-tailed ducks, 20 dovekins, 2 bur-
cromaster gulls, i Arctic fox, 20 sknas, 5 brent geese, 7 ptar-
mi.q;ans, 7 turnstones.

July, 1882 — 4 ermines, 10 musk oxen, 2 hares, 3 long-tailed
ducks, 19 eider ducks, i Sabine gull, 5 Arctic terns, 1 18 sknas,
27 brent geese, 6 turnstones, i sand piper, 14 owls.

August, 1882 — 2 ermines, 33 musk oxen, 2 seals, 11 hares,

5 king ducks, 6 long-tailed ducks, 7 eider ducks, 13 dovekins,
I burgomaster gull, 3 Arctic terns, 40 sknas, 37 brent geese,
32 ptarmigans, 54 turnstones, i sandling, 16 knots, 2 ringed
plover, 2 owls, i walrus.

September, 1882 — 3 foxes, i ermine, i musk ox, 3 seals, 2
hares, 1 raven, 3 ptarmigans, 1 turnstone and i owl.

November, 1882 — i fox and i musk ox.

December, 1882 — i seal.

February, 1883 — i hare.

March, 1883 — 1 ermine and 3 hares.

April, 1 883 — 2 hares and 4 ptarmigans.

May, 1883 — 3 musk oxen, 2 seals, 7 hares and 11 turn-
stones.

June, 1883 — I wolf, 2 foxes, 8 musk oxen, 3 seals, 14 king
ducks, 27 long-tailed ducks, i eider duck, 21 dovekins, i
diver, 3 burgomaster geese, 12 Arctic terns, 12 brent geese,
15 ptarmigans, 28 turnstones, 8 knots, i owl and i philarope.

July, 1883 — I lemming, 3 hares, 8 king ducks, 5 long-tailed
ducks, 2 brent geese, 3 turnstones, 2 knots and i philarope.

August, 1883 — 3 seals, 6 long-tailed ducks, 3 eider ducks,

6 dovekins, i brent goose, 1 turnstone and i knot.

A summary of the above gives a total of all game killed
as follows: 7 wolves, 7 foxes, 8 ermines, 8 lemmings, 103

:. i' / •

m M . ::'!

j'1'

370

AKCriC EXriX)RATlONS.

musU oxiri, 19 seals, 57 Iiaivs, 44 king clucks, 53 Ioiit;-t;ulcil
ducks, ^o cider tlucks, 60 dovtkins, i diver, 6 bur^oiiiasui
gulls, 1 Sabine .l;u1I, 21 Arctic terns, 1 7S sknas, .S4 hiim
geese, i raven, 79 lUarniigans, 100 turnstoiu;s, i s;uul|)i|>( r,
I sandlini;, 27 knots, 2 ringed plovers, iS owls, 2 ijiulan)|)(s
anil 1 walrus.

The above statement of the game found Ly ilu; Laily
I'rankiin Bay ex[)eilition, which was prepareil by Seij^caiit.
Hrainard, is of inttrrest as showini; what specie-s of birds and
animals frequent (irinnell Laiul, anil at what season ol die
year the migratory birds return to that region. No j^ainc
was killed during the montiis ot October, November and

MUSK ox HUNTINC. IN TMK ARC TIC RKGIONS

December, 1881 ; January and October, 1882, and January,
1S83, when hunting was impossible on account of the dark-
ness and cold. The solitary musk ox killed in Novenibi;r,
1882, was found by the party which was sent during that
month to Carl Ritter Bay, though there can be no doubi that
it is resident throughout the year, subsisting during the winter
season on saxifrage and the scant grass, to find which it re-
moves the snow with its hoofs. The number of these animals
seen disproves tlie theory advanced by Major Feilden in his
paper on mamm dia (see " Voyage to the Polar Sea," volume
ii., page 201, Nares) "that the number of musk oxen in
Grinnell Land is extremely limited," and was well nigh ex-
hausted by the onslaught made by th<; Nares expedition
during the winter of 1875-76.

NRAR TIIK NOKTII I'Or.K.

o7^

Soon after the return of Ser^t-ant Rice, I )r. Pavy and tlic
I{s(iiiiinaii Jens, Lieutenant (lr(*ely cauK! hack to I'Ort Conifer
after an exploration of (;l(;ven days in tlu* int<;rior of (irinn<:ll
Land to tlu; westward (jf th(t station, 'I'lury arrived on tl-e
cvenini,' of Miiy 7tli, i.S.Sj. LieutcMiant (iret^ly expected to
1)(; [Tone a niucli Ioniser tiuK; and liis appearance was a sur-
prise, riie followinn sk<-tcn of his discoveries and tlie adven-
tures of tlie party is from tlu; graphic \)v.n of Serg(;ant Rice,
as recorded in his diary :

Tlie coinniandtrr started Ironi l'"ort Con^tT on April 20lh
with the purpose of travelhn;4 westward over tlie coiuitry
until, if possible*, the western coast ol (iriunell Land slivould be
reached. I le was accompanied by Serjeants Cross and Long
and Privates Connell, Bender and Whisth.T. Cross and Long
were supporting, and rtrturned after two days. 'I'he party
visited the English cache at Stony I'oint and appropriat(,'d
such of the contents as they refpiired, and llien proceeded up
Conybeare liay. This opening had not hvcvx <.'xplor(.'d by the
Enijlish and was found much thtcpi.-r than ih(;y supposed, Li(;u-
tenant Archer passed the mouth of the bay and has mapped
out its entrance very correctly, but our travellers foimd it to
be thirty miles deej) instead of t(Mi. At the head of the bay
three valleys were found leading into it, but none were prac-
ticable for travelling. On April 28th they opened out a new
fiord, which they entered and found to be about three miles
wide and fifteen to twenty long, running north-norduvest. It
was surrounded and enclosed by lofty, frownmg cliffs, strangely
imposing and picturesque. In the valleys before mentioned
musk oxen and wolves were seen. Into the fiord, afterward
named after Captain Howgate, there emptied a river, on the
icy surface of which they travelled some distance before its
diaracter was discovered. The ice runninfif together it was
difficult to observe where the fiord ended and the river becran ;
but as they advanced the evidences of its being fresh w.ite.',
and not an arm of the sea, multiplied, Th(;y noticed that the
water forced up in the cracks was brackish, and gradually
grew fresher. Farther on Lieutenant Greely found the
.stream to be open, with evidences of its having remained so
all the year round.

The travelling was now of the finest description. The
fresh water from the open channel of the stream inundated
the ice that covered the shallower parts abutting the banks

372

ARCriC EXPLORATIONS.

■ Mm

Mm i±±.

and over which the party was travelling. This thin sliL^t of
water freezing- without any inequalities gave to their icy Iijuli.
ways the appearance of a waxed floor or a plain covered \vitli
laminated steel. It was almost too smooth, for it was no
easy matter to keep the footing. The great reflective quali-
ties of the polished ice also caused much inconvenience from
snow-blindness, with which one member of the party (Wliistlc^r)
was especially affected. But these were slight drawbacks
compared with the great advantages they were enjoyinc
Probably no Arctic travellers were ever so favored as thesr-.
The sledges glided over the ice without requiring the least
exertion to draw them. In fact, it was difficult to keep in
advance of them. At one time the commander judgeil that
four and a half miles were made in one hour. He arrived
at this conclusion from counting his steps, which were meas-
ured. After meeting with the open water of the stream a
few steps to the edge of the ice furnished them with a delicious
draught of pure ice water — a boon which no mortal except an
Arctic traveller or perhaps a wanderer in the deserts of Africa
can fully appreciate.

A small island in the river was next discovered and the
source of the river soon reached. It proved to be a large
lake, from fifty to seventy-five miles long and about seven
broad. It was open at the point from which it fed the
river, where the accelerated movement of the water wore
away the ice by attrition or prevented it from forming at all.
The stream also starting out with great rapidity was open tor
about three mile.s, and, as already stated, had the appearance
of remaining so all the year round. The depth of the river at
its head was three and a half feet, width fifty yards in its nar-
rowest part, increasing to about three miles at its estuary.
Along the valley thus drained the party found enough drift-
wood, of the ground willow, to serve for fuel. Abundant
traces of game — musk oxen, hares and foxes — were seen in
all directions, and they were led to believe that these animals
had not migrated during the winter. The traces bore the
stamp of continuous occupation of the ground, and, as nearly
as I could learn, resembled those seen by Dr. Pavy and the
writer near Lincoln Bay. Small fish, resembling minnows,
were seen at the head of the stream. Lieutenant Greely and
his party now pushed on over the lake, following its south side
for a short distance. Here the snow was found to lie very

NEAR TIIE NORTH POLE.

373

deep and the party found good use for their snow shot^s.
They S001 left the short^s of the lake and started across for
its west side, having for their objective point the mouth of a
valley through which the commander hoped to continue west-
ward.

As they neared the shore, which they reached the next day,
they saw that a glacier of great size and magnificence filled
the valley and abutted on the lake. On the examination
which a closer proximity afforded they found the glacier facing
the lake with a perpendicular front of from one hundred to
two hundred feet in height, back of which the ice rapidly in-
clined to a greater elevation, increasing to at least six hundred
feet at a distance of only one hundred yards from its face.
Farther up the valley it wound its way, receding from view
in the dim perspective in milky, undulating folds. The frown-
inof front of this magnificent mer de glace was awe-inspiring
in its grandeur and dazzling in its beauty. The sun scintillat-
ing and glistening on the crystal points, the strange freaks of
color that the direct and reflected light made in playing among
the blocks and protuberances adhering to the irregular front
of this frozen Niagara since the last great segments of ice had
fallen away and dropped like a glass mask at its feet, giving
to some the appearance of green chalcedony and to others
that of pure, transparent crystal, added to the enchanting
spectacle. The glacier, which Lieutenant Greely has honored
with the name of his wife, was two miles wide at its face. A
moraine was formed at the margin of the lake — since called
after the chief signal officer — about one hundred yards from
the glacier's present face, and proves that in forcing the
debris to that position it must at some time have extended
that far.

The most glorious spectacle was afforded, however, by the
"calving" or breaking away of a portion of the ice. It was a
sight which has been vouchsafed to but few. Dr. Hayes was
so fortunate as to witness a similar process of nature at one
of the Greenland fiords and has left a graphic description of
the same. Our party have rhapsodied considerably over that
which they now saw, and all agree that no idea of its beauty
and sublimity can be conveyed. They were encamped within
safe distance and had their attention attracted by the crack-
ling noise which attended the disruption of the ice as the
mass — so huge and immense in itself, but so small compared

1 ■

374

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

lifl ill:: f;

to the great body of the ice stream — was detached. The
noise as the ice in hundreds of thousands of tons came crush-
ing down was immense. The tottering blocks and colunins
of crystal were played upon by the sunlight, which turned
them into masses of flashing silver as they trembled and a
cataract of diamonds as they fell. Over the scene of dcmoii-
tion there then arose a cloud of the icy particles which, ascend-
ing, veiled the spot. The sun, playing through the sparklinir
mist, gave to it the most beautilul tints of color, among which
a pink, rosy hue predominated.

Our commander, finding that the glacier completely occu-
pied the valley and offered no chance for ascending to its
upper surface — the perpendicular front was insurmountable—
and also that no other opening to the westward presented
itself now, determined to give up his project and return. He
started to return with his party on May 3d. Retracing their
steps over the river, they found it breaking up; in many
places the ice which they had travelled over when outward-
bound was broken away. The only episode of interest that
occurred on the return journey was the circumstance ot
Bender losing his companions for five hours in a fog. He
had separated from the party to obtain a view from some ele-
vated position, and, a dense fog settling down, he wandered
astray. The party arrived at the home station on May 7th in
excellent spirits. Their short journey appears to have intro-
duced them into an Arctic paradise not far from our vicinity.
It will almost do for the use of those visionary theorists who
have accepted Symmes' eccentric, or rather concentric, con-
ception of the polar regions. The farthest point reached by
Lieutenant Greely was but sixty miles west and ten north of
Discovery Harbor; but the tortuous route makes the distance
travelled — so he thinks — 300 miles.

In the last days of May Israel and a companion were at the
"Bellows" doing some surveying, and killed three of a herd
of musk-oxen. When brought in the carcasses proved very
light and poor. It was apparendy too early in the season to
allow the animals a chance to get in better condition. The
scanty vegetation was not far enough advanced.

The mean temperature for the month of May at Fort Con-
ger was +17.41 ; maximum, +33.4; minimum, +1.1. Snow
fell during 143 hours. The temperature rose above the
freezing point for the first time on May 28th, after 271 succes-

NEAR THE NORTH F'OLE.

375

sive days. Tlu-' new ice on the harbor was found to be still
nearly four and a lialf fe it thick on June ist.

At the time Major Greely made his journeys into the in-
terior of Grinnell Land the relief ship Neptune was strug-
fTlin^i- with an impassable barrier of ice in Kane Sea.

Later in August Lieutenant Lockwood made two journeys
in the launch — on the first to the head of Archer Fiord,
brinL;Ing back large quantities of game, and on the second
he entered Weyprecht Fiord, but was unable to advance far
on account of the ice. Much disappointment was felt at the
non-arrival of the expected relief ship, with, first, stores, and
above all news from home, and many were the conjectures as
to the cause of her failure to come ; but no discouragement
was felt, and feeling a pardonable pride in their achievements
of the past year they prepared to attempt even more in the
next. The winter passed away more rapidly and pleasantly
than would be supposed possible. There was plenty of read-
ing matter. Major Greely and Dr. Pavy delivered occasional
lectures, and holidays were celebrated as before. Another
feature suggested by Major Greely did much to promote con-
tentment and good feeling. Each man was allowed on his
birthday to select the dinner, of which all partook — a privi-
lefje which was greatly appreciated and never abused.

Sergeant Rice's diary abounds in evidences of the attempt
of the members of the Greely party to enliven each other's
spirits during the long periods of desolation at Fort Conger.
To iudee from his notes and suq^gestions Serjeant Rice was
himself no small contributor to the general amusement.
They had a paper, which they printed on the polygraph,
called T/ie Arclic Moon, and some articles intended for it are
found in the diary. Sergeant Rice also translated a French
romance for the benefit of iiis comrades, their increasincj in-
terest being evidenced by the decreasing length of the chap-
ters and the great condensation of the latter part, so anxious
were they to. reach the denouement quickly. Speeches and
lectures appear to have formed part of their amusement. In
one place Serrreant Rice has the following "sufjgestions for
an humorous sketch: "

"Suppose the photographing of a baby which has been
given to a couple whose motto for years has been * hope.*
Describe said baby a beautiful, innocent, dew-eyed darling —
the preparation of the baby for the photographer's manipula-

!lil4

I, *

376

ARCTIC EXPIXJRATIONS.

^llt

j^i^^iiii'

tion. The baby is gorged by the mother as the Bedouin
would a camel before starting on a desert journey, so that it
would be quiet and content. Results in babe's indicrestion
Then the attending troop of relatives. The photographer
must await the arrival of some one who is said to chann tiu.'
baby. Baby gets tired, but must be photographed sniiliiKr.
He must vouchsafe a smile of benevolence, while in heart 1^0
desires to out-Herod Herod.

" The next subject is the beauty — or the faded beauty

who is, as are also her friends, dissatisfied with the photograph
of her in the sere and yellow leaf. Or the young lady who
resembles Mary Anderson or Adelaide Neilson. Or the itr.
norant lady, who will not tolerate a shadow under her chin.
Or the general with the battle-scar, which his patriotic wife
worships.

*• Suggestions from cartes de visite. The social equality of
the arrangement of photographs in a shop window — Henry
Ward Beecher cheek by jowl with Pat Rooney.

" It is easy to recognize a photographer (unless he makes
all his pictures by chance) by the manner in which the subject
is posed and the arrangement of the light. A photographer
has negatives in number equal to the population of a country-
town. Quote the criticism on Walter North's garden scene.
The sense of beauty and best momentary pose of the body is
a gift which cannot be picked up as a mechanical art can be,
Instance among difficult subjects, the fat woman — ' like heav-
enly pastures, large and fair.' The trials of the jail-photog-
rapher, the ' Bashful Sitter.' Custom House officers and
dry plate. Speaking of troubles of photographing nature,
writer might mention experience with a seal in the Arctic."

The following is one of Sergeant Rice's efforts in the poet-
ical line :

i; ''!'!;

OH, WHAT'S THE TEMPERATURE?"

On the shores of an Arctic sea,
On the banks of Grinnell Land,

Where mortal man ne'er ought to be,
There dwells a little band.

This enterprising colony

Came without being sent.
Commanded by A. W. G.,

Who was on science bent.

:douin
that it
estion.
raphcr
"111 ih(;
milinfi.
;art he

:auty —
,oi:;raph
dy who
the ig-
er chin.
)tic wife

.lality of
—Henry

e makes
2 subject
^rapher
country
n scene,
body is
t can be,
ke heav-
photog-
ers and
nature,
rctic.
he poet-

NEAK IHE NORTH POLE.

With a shipload of thermometers,
And kegs of lime-juice many,

Anemometers, barometers,
But of shoes they hadn't any.

In their abode, 'mid ice and snow,

They at each other stare,
For wiiile hourly wagging signal flags

They find they've nary a chair.

But they have other luxuries
That perhaps amount to much,

Immense amphibious " morp.:idites,"
Velocipedes and such.

And out into the frosty air

Two dozen iron beds
Have formed a most appropriate lair

On which to place the sleds.

Their Arctic home is fortified

Against the Polar bear ;
Barometers on every side

And thermometers everywhere.

Secure within this safe retreat

Reposed A. W. G.,
And asked of one he chanced to meet,

"What's the frigidity?"

At every hour of all the day

Observers then were sure
Of having •' Horace" to them say,

" Oh, what's the temperature?"

And when, upon their hourly tramp.
They'd chance to ope his door.

He'd look up from his student lamp—
"And what's the temperature?"

At evening, when relieving came.
Did he rest his weary head ?

Oh, no, my friend ; it was the same—
" What temperature ? " he said.

If Roxy went but in the room

To look upon the fire,
A ghostly voice from out the gloom—

" Is the temperature any higher? "

When Israel midnight vigil kept.
He'd hardly close the door

Before a voice from a man who slept —
" Is the temperature any lower? "

377

i':. !

378

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

At morning when thi; breakfast meals

Were on ilie table spread
A muffled tread through the doorway steals-

" How cold is it ? " he said.

lit!/ !::' M?!-

I, '.i! ?'k: t

jmr H

;pri::

War zKt

'^-■,?'"i ;l ' j ■

B|H

'£'■•'']

§mt

^^;^^ ■;: :.i

A question's heard through all the months
From the General, lank and lean —

A hundred times if he's asked it once—
•« What is the monthly mean ? "

The months roll by, a year is gone,
A voice comes through the door

From a tall, slim man, with a red cap on—
•' Will the m(!an be minus four?"

The weary sledgers, tired and sore,

Come by which island way.
But hardly have they passed the door—

•* How cold did ) ..u have it, pray?"

Should any of tl.is noem tell,
Should it fall in other hands,

The poet sure will then catch h — 11
From the gentleman who commands.

Latitude 81" 44' north, December, 1882.

"THE TIDOMETER."

G. W. IL

One more extract, to close this somewhat pathetic inspection of the dead
explorer's diary. It is headed : " Doggerel notice stuck up to have myself
awakened as usual to take tidal readings," and is as follows:

In the stall among thermometers,
Barometers, hydrometers.
Along with the geographer
(Who is also the chrop.o^Tipher)
There sleeps the old phutographer,
WI10 wants some one to jog him, for
When 10 : 40 by chronometer
lie must go ar.d read tidometer.

CHAPTER XXIV.

PREPARING FOR RETREAT.

Ciossing Orinnell Land — The Last Exploring Tripi- — Tlic Retreat — Leaving many Pro-
visions ami tlie Dogs behind — Au/'nclcniii^ ihe Steain-Launch — A terrilic Gale — On the
Ice Floe— (iaininf; L;inil at Esquimau I'oint — Rations louiul at Cape l-.al)ella antl
Cape Sabine — Death staring in their Face — In Winter Quarters — The First Death —
Scurvy the Cause.

On February ist, 18S3, twenty-six days before the sun re-
appt-arecl, a caclie of provisions was made at Cape Baird, and
these were increased from time to time durin^r the month with
a view to retreatin;^ southward in the fall should the relief
vessel again fail to arrive, until the quantity reached about
three hundred rations. Lieutenant Lockwood was early in
the field. On March loth, accompanied by Brainard and
Jewell, with two dog- trains driven by Jens and Frederick, he
established a depot of supplies at Cape Summer. Returninijj
to Fort Conger on the i8th, they rested until the 27th, and
then, with the addition of Ellis, who, with Jewell, was to go
only as far as Cape Britannia, once more took the field for the
north coast of Greenland. At the end of six days they had
reached the Black Horn Cliffs, where they were met by open
water. They waited three days for the lead to close and
made several journeys toward the interior with a view of tak-
ing an inland route, but finding none practicable and the ice
appearing firm they once more attempted to round the cliffs,
when a southerly gale with the spring tide drifted the floes
away from the land ice. Lieutenant Lockwood succeeded at
once in effecting his escape, but the others, with dogs, sledge
and provisions, remained several hours on the floe, until it
struck the ice foot as it drifted northward, when they made a
bridge of their sledge, and with much difficulty and danger
reached the land, not a little disappointed at the result of a
journey which had promised so well. They returned to Fort
Conger, arriving on April 1 3th, and seeing to the northward
at Repulse Harbor, on their way, a lane of water extending

(379)

■♦ ;

1 It:

t;.

1 'I'

380

ARCTIC KX PI .ORATIONS.

across to Lincoln lia\ ami from five to six miles in width.
During this trip important tidal observations wen; madr hy
Jew(dl at Black Horn Cliffs, Repulse Harbor and Caj)c Suin
m(,'r.

Lieutenant Lockwood's next journey was to the westward
in continuation of Major Cirecly's exploration in that direc
tion durinLj the j)revious year. He was once more arconi-
panietl by Brainanl and I'^squimau I*V(;derick. They lra\ i lied
to the head of Ella Hay. Arthur i'iord, and to the twin Ljla-
ciers, which cut off farther advance in that direction. A hircrc
mountain seen here, some five thousand feet in heii^ht, was
called Mount Difficult)-. Retracing their steps, they next
followed the shores of Beatrix Bay, abandoning dieir laroc
sled antl taking a smaller one lirought for light travelling, and
pushed on until they reach(Kl the west coast of (irinndl Land
and look(!d out on the Polar Ocean. On the manh ihey
discovered an immense inland glacier which, from its resem-
blance to the great wall of China, was called the Chinese
Wall Glacier, afterward changed to Agassiz Glacier. This
forms the ice cap of Southern Grinnell Land, being separated
from the north(;rn ice cap by a belt of land about sixty miks
in width. By a strange coincidence the farthest point west
was reached on the same date as the highest northern latitude
the previous year — namely, May 13th. Owing to the prev-
alence of a severe snow storm, they rested three days at
the mouth of Greely Fiord, in order to obtain observations
for position, which was ascertained to be latitude 80° 48' 39'
north, longitude 78° 26' west. On the evening of the 16th,
the weather being perfectly clear, the party ascended to the
top of a cliff some twenty-two hundred feet in height, to view
the adjacent coast. The cliff was of fossil formation. Atone
place the petrified roots of a tree were found intact. On the
north side the land terminated in a high headland, fifty or
sixty miles distant, which was called Cape Brainard. To the
south, somewhat more distant, was Cape Lockwood. Beyond
the latter another point was discerned with a telescope, sep-
arated from Cape Lockwood by open water. This was sup-
posed to be new land, and was called Arthur Land. On the
same day they started back toward Fort Conger, but the re-
cent fall of snow, which was quite soft and more than knee-
deep, made travelling very difficult, and their progress was
slow. To add to their trouble their provisions were running

J'UTM'AKINC I'OR KKIRKAr,

38'

short, .iiul thi'V were ronipcllctl to subsist on lialf rations.
Th»; lii^t of tlu' (loi^ provisions had been fxhaiistcil, and at
their second camp they killed one ol" liieir dogs to supply
lood for the rest. After a most tryini; journey they reached

GREEI.Y'S MARC:H SOUTHWARD.

their base of supplies, from which they had been absent four-
teen days, and arrived at Fort Con<jcr on May 26th.

During the season of 1882 Major Greely made two jour-
neys into the interior of Grinnell Land, leavinpf Fort Concjer

> '5

15 •! !

382

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

'I u •'i -it

' ,■ till ' ml jml

on April 230! and June 24th respectively. The first of these
journeys occupied twelve and the second nineteen days, and
many important discoveries were made. Conybear Bay was
found to b(j a larnre fiord. Weypreclit Fiord and a numl)er
of lakes were seen, the largest of which, about seventy miles
long by fifty wide, was called Lake Hazen. This was fed by
rivers and streams from the ice cap of Northern Grinncll
Land, and discharged through Ruggles Rive*" into Weyprcclit
Fiord, and, notwithstanding the early season in April, the river
was open on the shores of Lake Hazen. Winter-quarters of
Esquimaux were found and some relics showing that they had
possessed dogs, sledges and iron. Two ranges of mountains
running nearly parallel with the United States range were
called respectively Conger and Garfield range, and a lofty
peak, the highest in Grinneil Land, Mount Arthur. Of (r]a-
ciers there weni many, the largest of which was called Hen-
rietta Nesmith Glacier. Great hardships were endured on
the second of these journeys, when the Major and Linn,
leaving the supporting party, travelled with packs, which
weighed on starting about eighty pounds, fording and swim-
ming many streams and being otherwise subjected to much
exposure, without, however, any eventual ill resulting there-
from.

In June Lieutenant Lockwood and Brainard made another
journey to the interior of Grinneil Land, taking a north-
westerly direction to within a short distance of the Unitec'
States range and adding a number of glaciers and several
rivers to those already known. They were absent six days
(June 13th to 19th) and took provisions for that time in
packs on their backs. This practically closed the operations
for the year. The season of 1S83 was a very backward one,
at least two weeks behind that of 1882, which was in turn a
close season as compared with 1881, when the ice was re-
markably open.

It was early feared that a relief vessel might not reach thi-
station, and preparations were made to abandon the post as
soon as the state of the ice would permit. In anticipation of
this, on April 5th. Rice, with ten men and a dog sledge, went
to Thank God Harbor for the English ice-boat known to
have been left there by Beaumont and returned with it in
good condition on the 15th. It was a double boat, made
specially for ice work and very light, weighing only about

PREPARING FOR RETREAT.

383

seven hundred and fifty pounds, complete with its outfit.
There was no break of importance in the ice until August
4th, when a southwest gale set in and continued several days,
breakin<:if up the ice in the bay so that a start was deter-
mined on.

Tlie boats taken were the steam-launch Lady Greely, the
whaleboat Narwhal, both built in the United States, the jolly
boat Valorous, left at Cape Hawkes by the English and
broucjht up in the Proteus in 1881, and the ice-boat Beau-
mont. Two tons of coal and about eight months' supplies
were left in a secure place, to be ready should a return be
made necessary. A number of barrels of blubber, spoiled
meat and bread were broken up to serve as food for the
twenty-three dogs which were left in possession. The coal
was part of some fifteen tons which had been mined and
hauled from the vein in Water Course Bay. The records of
the expedition, copies of all photographs widi four dozen
selected negatives and the lighter instruments, including the
pendulum, were taken. At two o'clock on the afternoon of
August 9th, 1883, the party of twenty-five bade farewell to
the place which had been to them for two years not only a
home but a home fraught with so many pleasant recollections
that they still speak of it as the paradise of the Arctic. The
steam-launch, which Major Greely says was most efficient,
towed the other three boats, the people and stores being
divided among them. Three tons of coal and a quantity of
provisions were stowed at Cape Baird, and that was therefore
the first objective point. Passing to the southward of Bellot
Island, the ordinary channel for vessels being still closed,
they soon cleared the pack and entered a lead to Archer's
Fiord, where they came near losing the launch in a nip.
Arriving at Cape Baird on the morning of the loth, they took
on the provisions and left at midday with fifty days' supplies.
Passing around Cape Leiber they encountered a moving pack
from the northward, and were compelled to run into Cape
Crocrofft and tie up to the land ice. Here they took up forty-
eight pounds of corned beef, left by Major Greely the previ-
ous year, and, the tide having drifted the ice off shore, they
ran on to Cape Bock and Carl Ritter Bay, finding compara-
tively open water.

The provisions left here by the Proteus in 1881, 200
rations, and those cached at Cape Cullinson by Nares in

'ill!!

'■'V]

! »

I '

:i.|J '"'

.11: :■ ,. !

i^' ; '

¥m.

384

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

1875, 240 rations, were taken on board. The small stores in
the Nares cache, such as tea, tobacco and sugar, were bad as
well as a barrel of bread. About midway between Capes
Leopold, Bon Bouche, and Lawrence they were frozen in for
five days, when they forced tlieir way out, and after various
detentions from the boats getting ashore, and several severe
nips, which the launch stood well, the other boats beincr
hauled up, they finally reached Cape Hawkes on August 26tli!
They landed and left a record on the summit of Wasiiinoton
Irving Island, and took on the small quantity of potatoes
pickles and bread found in the English cache, except about
three or four hundred pounds of the latter, which was too
mouldy for use. At 4 p. m. the same day they started for
Cape Sabine, having clear water until 10 p. m., when the wind
off shore drove the pack out and compelled them to make
fast during the night. Young ice several inches thick formed
off the mouth of Allman Bay, the water being fresh there on
account of the flow from John Evans glacier, so that they
were unable to extricate the launch, but drifted slowly to the
southward with the pack. The tide occasionally would open
a la: o and they worked through it a short distance, only to be
brought up again. For the season of the year the tempera-
ture was unprecedentedly low, being generally below zero, and
the party suffered mucu with cold. In order that they might
not be missed by the expected relief vessel a tripod was
erected on the ice and a flag hoisted at an elevation of thirty
feet to attract attention. A northeast gale broke the floe, so
that the position of the party was frequently changed, and
they were finally driven to within about six miles of Cape
Albert.

As soon as the state of the ice permitted the stores from
the different caches were collected at Camp Clay. These
may be summed up as follows, viz. : Beebe cache and English
cache, 240 rations each. In the latter considerable tea, sugar.
chocolpte. bread and doe biscuit unfit for use. The rum and
alcohol were missing. Garlington cache, 500 pounds of
bread, ninety of pemmican, and a few cans each of roast mut-
ton, peas, string beans, green corn, and two boxes of lemons.
These last were in excellent condition and proved a rare treat
in more respects than one. Major Greely speaks of them in
the highest terms, and says that he would never again go to
the Arctic without lemons, and the scraps of paper in whid\

PREPARING FOR RETREAT.

585

they were wrapped furnished the news of the day. The
bomhartlment of Alexandria, the eruption of yEf a, and the
election of reform governors in many of the States were all
heard of through this means, and we were frequendy sur-
prisefl after the Major came on hoard the Thetis, when tell-
in<T him what we supposed would be an interesting- item of
news, to hear him say, " Yes, I heard of that ; we read it in
the scraps that were around the lemons."

Here Major Greely determined to abandon the steam-
launch and Valorous, which was accordingly done, two small
sleds being made from the inside works of the launch. With
these and the twelve-man English sled, which had been re-
covered from Thank God Harbor, where it was left by Beau-
mont, and had been brought along to meet such an emer-
•nMicy, the party set out across the ice for the nearest point
of land above Cape Sabine, some eleven miles distant. It
was a wc-ary journey ; th'; ice was rough and hummocky, and
two journeys were required with tlie small sleds for the pro-
visions, and two with the larger one to transport the boats.
Even then they accomplished only about one mile daily.
Officers and men worked alike at the drags. On S(-ptember
13th, finding that the large sled was weakening, tiie whale-
boat was abandoned and only the Beaumont remained. Twice
driven back into Kane Sea by southwesterly gales, and fcar-
injr as much that they would be driven to the southward past
Cape Sabine as that they would not reach that point, the floe
on which they were travelling was driven, on September 2 2d,
by a nordivvest gale, down by Brevoort Island to the mouth
of Baird Inlet, where it was stopped by grounded bergs and
so broken up that they were left on a small piece only about
fifty yards in diameter. The floe continued to come down
from the northward, and, grinding and crumbling together,
piled up in some places to a height of twenty-five feet. Their
encampment of snow houses and tents was broken up, and
they were forced to attempt a landing, which they finally
effected on the north side of Baird Inlet on September 29th.

Two men. Rice and Esquimau Jens, were at once sent to
Cape Sabine to examine into the state of affairs there, while
the remainder, except Long and Esquimau Frederick, who
were detailed as hunters, set about constructing winter quar-
ters. Game, however, was very scarce, and only three seals
and a few ptarmigan were obtained. Rice and Jens returned

M'i i

'■\i

I , I

i mm

,1! ! ! .

I HI

if vi';

' ;*!! ■ ■ ; ■■■SI

■!:l-:.i

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

on the 9th of October with the discourairinir news of Uk JVo-
tens disaster, and the scanty supply of provisions at Sabine
Major Greely uj^on hcarinn^ their report announced tlmt ilic
party must abandon Esquimau Point, as he had named it
and transfer the camp to a place nearer the base of supplies

A start was made on the next day, when one load of pro'
visions was atlvanced as far as Rosse Bay, and on the mh
the remainder. Tiiey then travelled alono- a strait discovered
by Rice, and named after him, which connects Ross(; j^ay with
Buchanan Straits, placing- Cape Sabine on an island instead
of the mainland, as was formerly supposed. Rice and Jens
havin<^ oone to Cape Isabella to ascertain whether any sup-
plies had been left there last year, found only the 144 pounds
of meat left there by the Enorlish in 1875.

The people had been on reduced rations since Sei)tcmbcr
25th, when the allowance of meat was made twelve ounces,
and at Esquimau Point one-half that quantity. On tlu;
evening of October 15th they reached the Proteus wreck
cache, with all their provisions, except one load, vvhicli liad
been cached at Cocked Hat Island, and set to work on winter
quarters. A hut was built of stones, roofed over with tlio
whaleboat from the Beebe cache, the oars servinjr as rafters
and covered widi canvas, the sides being- banked up with
snow. Of course, there were no means of heating it, as
barely fuel enough was obtained to warm the food. It was
never cooked. On the ground canvas was spread, and over
this buffalo overcoats, on die top of which the sleeping-ba<;s
were placed.

On the 2d of November a party was sent to Cape Isa-
bella to secure the meat which had been found there. It was
composed of Rice, Linn, Elison, and Eredericks, with the
small sled and several days' provisions. On the 9th, about
midnight, Rice returned and reported the party at the head
of Russe Bay, suffering severely with cold and Elison dyino
with frost-bites. Relief was at once sent, and about noon ol
the 1 2th Brainard reached them in a severe gale with foo(!
and medicine, and found Elison badly frozen and delirious,
PVedericks and Linn were in the sleeping-bag with him tryin*;
to keep him warm, and the three were literally frozen in the
bag, and had to be cut out. They would undoubtedly have
perished but for Brainard's timely arrival, as the temperature
was minus 30° Fahrenheit, and they were without a tent.

II.

PREPARING FOR RKTRKAT.

2,^7

Willi lIk^ assistance of a party under Lieutenant Lockvvood,
which had also come to the niscue, they wv.vv. irotten to Camp
Clay, I'^liso'^ havinir both hands and leet frozen stiff, so that
lie never Msed them aoain. They had been compc.'lled to
a'oaii'lon the meat at Baird Inlet, with (;verythin<j;' not abso-
lute;!)' necessary to save life.

Diuint^' the lattc;r part of OctobtM' Lon^-, with the two na-
tives, was stationetl at the junction of Rice and Huchanan
Straits for the purpose of hunting, and suffered n^reatly with
cold and hunger. They had only a tent to live, in nnd w(M-e
on reduced rations. They returned about NovcMiiber 8th,
badly frost-bitten, havin<]^ killed only three seals. From No-
vember ist the command was placed on further reduced
rations, which had been accurately estimated to last until
March I St, with a reserve of ten days' full rations for the trip
to Littleton Island \yhen the sound should freeze over. This
reduced ration was composed as follows : Meat and blubber,
lour and one-third ounces; bread and do<^ biscuit, six and
one-half; canned vegetables and rice, one and two-fifths;
butter and lard, thre«-quarters ; soups and beef extract, nine-
tenths; cloud-berries, pickles, raisins, and milk, one ounce;
making a total of 14 88-100 ounces per day. About this
time the whale-boat Narwhal, which had been left on the Hoe,
drifted down near Cape Sabine and was wedged in the ice
between Brevoort Island and the mainland. She was secured
and used durino- the winter for fuel. After the middle of No-
vember hunting became impossible on account of the dark-
ness and cold, besides beKig useless, as there was no game
to be had, so they waited patiently for the closing of die sound
by ice, but waited in vain.

Throughout the entire winter open water separated them
from Littleton Island, where there was an additional cache
of provisions which, though not large, would have been suffi-
cient, with economy, to pull the entire party through, and
near at hand were natives on whom they might have relied
for assistance, as did Kane; and Hayes. Every effort was
made to preserve cheerfulness in the little band, so necessary
to its very existence. Conversations were kept up on all
sorts of subjects, however frivolous, and they talked when
they felt least like it, because they deemed it their duty. The
few books that they had were read and re-read by the dim
light of a blubber-lamp with moss wicking, and a statistical

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388

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

almanac was a perfect mine of wealth. The survivors speak
in the warmest terms of the major's powers of conversation
and the (jallant efforts which he made to keep up the spirits
of his little band. Notwithstanding their destitute condition
Thanksgiving and Christmas days were observed as usual
For more than a month they saved from their scanty rations
in order that they might have, at least by contrast, a <r^^Q^\
dinner on those days. It consisted principally of rice puddino
with a glass of rum punch to wash it down.

As early as March 13th Long was sent with Frederick and

WATCHING FOR SEALS.

Jens to Alexandra Harbor to look for game, the English ex-
pedition of 1875 having reported abundant traces in tiiat
quarter. They returned exhausted, however, after an ab-
sence of three or four days and empty-handed. Long, how-
ever, had made the important discovery of new land in Hazen
Sound, having seen from the western side of Mount Carri
three capes beyond the farthest reported by the Nares expe-
dition. The life at Camp Clay during the winter and sprinfj
is simply indescribable. Rice discovered salt shrimps, with
which they eked out their suppers, but they contained very
little nutriment, and the labor of catching them may be im-

PREPARING FOR RETRKAT.

agined when it is known that it required 1,300 to fill a jrallon
measure. Lichens gathered from the rocUs, saxifrage, and
boiled seal-skin were also eaten. Twenty-four foxes, weigh-
ins^ ahout four pounds each, were killed with shotguns as they
prowled around the camp, and with the return of daylight
fourteen ptarmigan, sixty dovekies, a small seal, and, in April,
a bear, which netted them 257 pounds of good meat. Noth-
infT was wasted, and this last undoubtedly saved the lives of
the few who survived. Sergeant Brainard had charge of the
issue of provisions, which were carefully weighed in an impro-
vised scale, cartridges serving as weights, and equitably dis-
tributed. In March it was found necessary to again reduce
the ration, there being nothing left then but bread, meat and
tea, and on May 14th the last issue was made. This con-
sisted of six ounces of meat, everything else being exhausted.
Some ate it at once, others hoarded it as long as possible
before relying wholly on the seal-skin, shrimps, and lichens.

The first death was that of Sen:;eant Cross, who had been
the machinist of the steam-launch, and then there was a long
lapse of time until Esquimau F"reuerick gave in. This last,
toj^elher with the death of the other Esquimau, Jens Edward,
by drowning, proved a serious loss, as they were both good
hunters, and without the kyak much of the o-ame that was
killed could not be secured. Long, however, was the main
reliance of the party as a hunter. He is an old frontiersman
and a dead shot. Had it not been for the; scarcity of oame
he would have had no difficulty in providing for the entire
party. Rice, who with Fredericks had volunteered to go to
Baird Inlet to recover the meat left there the preceding
autumn, died on the trip of exhaustion and was buried by
Fredericks on the floe. The meat was not found. After
this, which occurred April 9th, they fell off rapidly, and but
for the timely arrival of the ships not a man of them would
have survived. Lieutenant Lockwood, and Mr. Rice, the
photographer, succumbed after a heroic attempt to secure for
their starving comrades about 200 pounds of meat supposed
to be cached at a place named Bad Creek, distant about fif-
teen miles from the encampment. Mr. Israel, the astronomer,
perished on May 27th, Lieutenant Kislingbury died on June
1st, and Dr. Pavy, the naturalist, slept into death on June 6th.
Not one of the victims realized that death was near. They
all died a tranquil, painless death. Thanks to the energy and

\% \

390

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

despatch with which tlu: expedition had been filtcd out we
were on tlie <^round at the earhest possible tlate, and liad iIk
exact position of the party been known when w(; sailed iropi
New York, not another life could have' been saved. Ma\ itli
the winter hut, which was only six feet above hii^h ualcr
mark, was abandoned, and th(i party moved up the hill op
account of the dampness from meltinjj^ snow, and lived in a
wall-tc;nt, and here they were found on the day of the rescue
which they little thought was so near at hand.

While lyino- in their tent, too exhausted to nro out in the
southwest gale which was raging, something very like the
sound of a steam-whistle was heard, and Long and Hiainard
were sent to the rocks, where a signal of distress was llyin<.,
to see if there was anything in sis^ht. Intervening hills hid
the ships from their view, and they returned disapijointal
with their melancholy report. Brair.ard says that this was
the bitterest moment of his life, and that he then gave up all
as lost. Long, not yet fully satisfied, went out again, and
climbing to the hill-top, saw the Bear's steam-launch approach-
ing, with the ships in the distance. Too overjoyed to control
himself, almost too weak to stand, he tumbled rather than ran
down the hill to meet his rescuers, and was the first of the
party to arrive on board the ship.

i '» J^pa IS

CHAPTER XXV.

THE KKSCUE.

riic Voyage of the Relief Ships 'I'hclis, Hear, and Alert to I.ady Franklin Hay— Battling
^vitll tlie Ice — I.ooUiiiK out for the (ireciy rarty--I''iii<lifi<^ the Survivors — A Teriible
_Siol,t._K(.lievinj; the Sufferers — Ten(;ravcs — Homeward Hound — Meelinj,' the Alert —
Death of Klison — Interment of Frederick C'hrisliansun.

TiiK United States q^ovcrnmcnt not having received any
news concerning the Greely colony, in the spring of 1884
sent out another relief expedition, consisting of the steamers
Thetis, Hear, and Ak:rt.

The Bear, the first of the Greely Relief Expedition to leave
New York, sailed shortly before four o'clock on the afternoon
of Apr'' 23d. The officers and crew of the Bear wen; as
follows: Lieutenant W. H. Emory, commander: Lieutenant
F. H. Crosby, executive ; Lieutenant John R. Colwell, navi-
Ljator; Lieutenant N. R. Usher, ensign; L. K. Reynolds,
])asscd assistant surgeon ; H. E. Ames and Chief-Engineer
John Lowe. Seamen, Jacob Johnson, Albert Jason, John
Johnson, James E. Burke, James C, Coogan, James J. Camp-
bell, Joel C. Evans, Hugh Brock, Ferdinand Boljohn, Carl J.
Carlson, Arthur Lloyd, Francis Duryea, John Johnson, Jr.,
and Heinrich Krasburg; boatswain's mate, John Quevedo ;
carpenter, Joseph B. Freeman ; ordinary seamen, Louis C.
Smith. Charles H. McLeod, David H. Kiernan, and John
Roberts; landsmen, Otto Shurz, Gustave Weber, and George
Sovo; machinists, J. M. Beam and Henry Thomas; black-
smith, Thomas J. Warton ; firemen, James Regan and Archie
Ciirrie; ice-pilot. Captain Ash.

The Bear was purchased by the United States government
on January 31st, 1883, from W. Giuve, Son & Co., of St.
John's, Newfoundland, for ^icx),ooo. She was used as an
Arctic sealer, and was considered one of the strongest ves-
sels afloat. She was a three-masted vessel, barkentine rig,
and was divided into two compartments. Her dimensions
were: Length, iQoi feet; breadth of beam, 29I feet; depth

• (391)

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392

ARCnC EXPLORATIONS.

of held i83 feet; c^ross tonnage, 689 tons; net top'^aj^M, 4^^
tons. She was built at Dundee, Scotland, in 1874, iiinl liad
compound engines with cylinders of 25 and 50 inches diamc-
ter respectively, and 30 inches stroke. She was built of
hard wootl and slieathed troi^^ the keel to above ilu-. water-
line with greenheart, a wood obtained in Deniarara, S(Hiih
America. It is considered the hardest wood in tlu; world.
The forward part of the vessel for about fifteen feet was hujlt
up of solid timbers. The; Bear was thoroughly overhauled
and refitted at the Brooklyn Navy Yard. The cost of the re-
pairs amounted to nearly $20,000.

The Thetis, the flag-ship of the Greely Relief Kxpedition,

sailed from New York on May
1st. Her officers and crew
were : Commander W. S. Schley,
the commander of the expedi-
tion ; Lieutenant Urell Sebrec,
Lieutenant Emory H. Taunt,
Lieutenant Samuel C. Lemley,
Ensign Charles H. Marlow.
Chief-Engineer George W. Mel-
ville, Passed Assistant Surgeon
E. H. Cireen ; ice-pilot, j. W.
Norveau ; cook, Max Tyron ;
steward, Charlie Yono- Sinir;
y quartermaster, George Cross;
•fi.st- class fireman, Thomas
Clark ; second-class firemen.
Harvey D. Wall and Frederick
W. Griffin ; seamen, William
Attkin, George Harvey, William Johnsen, C. Oxchmitt, \V.
Booth, Edward W^ Walker. Joseph B. White, C. Wilson. C.
Puelsen, F. Bujjessen, J. W. Powers. Bartley Cook, Miehacl
Hicke)', Joseph Mitre, Thomas Maloney, George G. Yewell,
J. Munsen, F. V. Taylor, and J. McDonald.

The United States government bought the Dundee whaler
Thetis on the 5th of February. She was two years old, was
of 600 tons burden, and was the strongest and staunchestof
the Dundee whaling fleet. On the 8th of February Lieuten-
ant-Commander F. E. Chadwick, naval attache of the Ameri-
can Legation at London, and Mr. Leigh Smith, ths well-known
Arctic explorer, inspected the Thetis at Dundee. Secretary

LIEUTENANT W. H. F.MORY.

TIIK RESCUE.

393

Chaiull(T. on the foUowint^ clay, detailed Lieutenant-Com-
maiidtT Caspar \\ Goodrich, the* executive officer of the Lan-
caster, to jjroceed to London and to brintj to this country the
Thciis. This order was, however, countermanded, and Rear-
Atlmiral Baldwin, who commands tiie Luropean station, de-
tailed Lieutenant Lazarus L. Reamy, also of the Lancaster, to
take change of the vessel. On the 14th of L'ebruary the
London Hoard of Trade, upon inspection, approved the
Th(;tis, and the purchase of the vessel by the United States
was finally completed. The amount paid for the vess(;I war>
about ^140,000. The oris^inal price asked by her owners was
nearly $160,000. She was formally turned over to the United
States on the 26th of February, and she sailed from Dundee
on the morning of the 29th. On reachini; New York the
Thetis was taken to the Navy Yard, where she was refitted
for the expedition.

The Alert, the last of the relief vessels to leave port, sailed
on May loth. Her officers and crew were as follows: Lieu-
tenant-Commander George W. Coffin, commanding; Lieu-
tenant C T Badger, Lieutenant LL J. Hunt, Ensign C. S.
McLlane, Ensign A. A. Ackerman, Chief-Engineer W. H.
Naunian, Passed Assistant Surgeon, E. S. Nash ; able seamen,
Frank Blokus, P. C. Hansen, Charles Baxter. William Bloom,
M. C. Bot, Thomas Nilson, Thomas Watts, Thomas Beeswei-
hemck, Charles Guyken, Armand Olsen, J. Luckscheintz,
Charles Tristram, Alexander Watson, Herman Lara, H.
Lupkerwitz ; fireman, J. Wachtc:r, John SulHvan, T. S.
Roberts, William Hess; boatswain's mates, Joseph Doyle and
Thomas Bragger; blacksmitii, A. H. Kemble; quartermasters,
Philip Shantz, Salvator Torgada ; machinists, William J.
Bowers and J. T. Green; captains of maintop, Albert Jones
and Charles Anderson; carpenter's mate, Edward White;
steward, Waldemar Wettergreen; cabin cook, Olaf Ander-
son; ship's cook, Adam Weizel.

The Alert, which was presented to the United States by
England to be used in the expedition, was built of wood at
the Pembroke dock-yard in 1856, and was originally a five-
gun sloop of war. In 1874 she was thoroughly overhauled
at the Portsmouth dockyard, and was fitted up specially for
an Arctic exploring vessel. She took part in the English
Arctic expedition, in 1875, ^^^ proved herself admirably fitted
for such work. She was formally- turned over to Minister

1 in

394

ARCTIC EX PI, OK AT IONS.

Lowell on March 25th. Tin: Alert is now rcj^ardt'd as one
of the stronj^est vessels alloat. She reijisters 1,045 l"iis, ami
is 1 79 feet loni; over all, and 160 feet at the water-line. [\^^.^
breadth of beam is 32^ feet, and when fully ecpiippi.cl she
draws 15 feet.

The Thetis arrived at Disko on May 2 2d, accompanied by
the collit;r l.och (iarry, after a pleasant passaije of U\\ days
and two hours from St. John's. On the Ih'st day out several
lar<;e berijs were passed, but once clear of the coast no mote
ice was seen until wr. mared the shores of Greenland. On
the morniuLi" of May 18th the ship was comi)letely surrounded
for several hours by loose, scattered fiekl-ice, on some pieces
of which seals were seen. The west coast of GrcMiland was
sii^hted on May 20th, in latitude 64" 30' north, lon^iuule 53°
20' west, and the part of Davis Straits throuj^h whicli wr. wimc
then passini,'^ was found to be remarkably free from \vr, only
an occasional berg being seen. Off Di.sko she met large pans
of floating ice, varying in thickness from three to five leetaiid
e.xtentling about three miles to seaward. Not without sonii:
difficulty she worked Ium" way through these and madt; last
with ice anchors to the fi.xed ice in the mouth of the harbor of
IJevely. Here she learned that the past winter had been one
of the most severe ever experienced. The Bear had arrived
on May 15th, ten days and fifteen hours from St. John's. On
the passage down she had taken a more westerly course than
that pursued by the Thetis and encountered continuous fields
of ice and large b(;rgs on the coast of Labrador and met winter
ice off the Whale iMsh Island.s, which lie about twelve miles
south-southwest from the entrance to Lievely Bay. Takincr
a westerly course she forced her way through to the mouth
of the harbor, where she Piadc fast to the ice. Two w^halcrs,
the Triune and Cornwallis, had arrived, and shortly afterward
the former attempted the passage to Upernavik, but failed on
account of the ice. She returned antl both then sailed, "s
their captains said, for the Southwest fisheries. On the 17th
the Bear left for Upernavik and succeeded in getting as far
as Hare Island, some seventy miles north of Disko, where she
was stopped by an impassable barrier of winter ice, and on
the 1 8th put back to Disko. In the meantime the Dundee
whalers Polynia and Nova Zembla had arrived, and on the
2 1 St, the day before the arrival of the Thetis, they left for
the north, followed closely on the same day by the Bear. Sh<;

THE kKSCUE.

395

took witli lit-T as (Ion* drivir Hans I lavscn, wiu) atcoinpanieil
N()pl<ii!^l^j<^l^l to Cape York llic previous year. 1 )avi<.i
l)-iiii(ls()ii wlio was on boanl the IVotinis with Liciittiiant
(}jii-liii^l()ii, ami mack: the passuLji: across iMtlvilK* liay in
Liciiiciii'viU Colwt'Il's boat, \v(;nt in tin; same capacity on l)oarcl
ihc 'llulis. |)uring' the stay at Disko preparations were
made for encoimterinL; tlie ice. Men were clriUed at " abanilon
shin. " Sixty (lays' provisions, inchulin*^ pemmican, tea, sus^ar,
bn.ul aiul extract of bei:f, were placed on deck to be ready
lur an enieri^ency.

Anns, ammunition and accoutrements were distributed.
Kach man was given a knapsack
coiUainiuL; a change; of clothing,
foot-Ljciar and tobacco, to be kej)!
at the head of his bunk and not
to he disturbed except in the
event of abandoninjr ship. Tor-
pedoes, both of gun-cotton and
(Tiinpowder, were experimented
with and found to operate well,
althougli the ice here was too
soft to give them a fair test,
riirouirhout lie cruise there
were no drills, except these, and
at fire quarters, the idea being
to have no unnecessary work.

The Thetis sailed from Disko
on May 24th, convoying the
Loch Garry. At five p. m., liav-
ing advanced about forty-five miles to the southward, heavy
pack-ice was met, and, preferring not to risk the Loch Garry
in it, Commander Schley waited until the next morning for a
lead, and then, the ice being still close packed, the Loch Garry
was sii^nalled to return to Disko and there await an easterly
wind, while the Thetis stood on, taking a lead where it could
be found, ramming and boring as occasion required.. On the
27th she arrived off Hare Island and the next morning, hav-
ing been again joined by the Loch Garry, together witii the
whalers Arctic and Wolf, the four vessels proceeded together
to Upernavik, sometimes one and sometimes another leading
the way, except the Loch Garry, which, being an iron vessel
and not adapted for ice work, always brought up the rear

CO.MMANDKK W. S. SCHl.KY.

m ■?

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596

ARCTIC EXPLORATiUNS.

On May sgtli, at half-past seven a. m., the Thetis and Loch
Ciarry arrived at Upernavik, followed later by the Wolf ;uk1
Arctic. Here the ships found the Bear, together with iiu.>
Scotch whalers Triune, Polynia and Nova Zembla. iho
Bear had arrived the previous evening, having first niu up
to lierry Island, tv.enty-five miles north, to examine tlir siaic
of the ice. Lieutenant Kmory reported that it was imj

k1 Narwhal,

ble, that the whalers C

His. Ai

assa-

le, tnat tne wnaiers L,ornwaiiis, Aurora ana iNarwhal, an
Dundee, were there waiting for the ice to open. In tin; after-
noon all the whalers, with the Thetis and Bear, left Uper-
navik, the Loch Garry remaining behind to await the convoy
of the Alert and a more favorable season for crossing Melville
Bay. Governor Elborg, of Upernavik, accompanied the shins
as far as Knigatock, a small setdemcnt twelve miles norih,
where they tied up tc the ice, the Arctic close by the Triune,
Polynia, Wolf and Nova Z<-mbla ; on the other side of the
island th-j Cornwallis, Aurora and Narwhal in sight from the
hill top. The whalers were much surprised to see the squailron
so early in the field. The vessels of no other expedition,
either of relief or exploration, had ever arrived there at so
early a date, or even left England or the United .States before
June 1st, the day on which this expedition left Knigatock and
made a start across Melville Bay.

PVom this time until the day of our arrival in the open
water around Cape York the ships were continually battling
with the ice or waiting for a chance to push on where it was
found impenetrable. The entire fleet of eight whalers and
the two (expeditionary vessels were together at the Duck
Islands from June 6th to iitii. The Thetis and Bear had
touched at Tessnisak, the northernmost of the Danish settle-
ments, on the way up. W^hile waiting for the ice to open the
men had fine shooting. Kider duck, dovekies and loons wore
abundant. I^'rom this |)oint the vessels separated, the Thetis
and Bear, widi the whahers Arctic and W'olf, being generally
in company, the remainder running in groups of three or four
together, with the PLsquimau.x and Jan Mayen, which after-
ward came up. P'ach day, though eventful in itself, was but
a repetition of the [)rec(.'ding. The ice varied in thickness
from three to five feet, even more when rafted, and it was
only by watching the leads carefully and taking advantage ot
every favorable opening, that the ships made any progress at
all. Commandeer Schley almost lived in the crows' nest.

THE RESCUE.

397

SoiiK^times wlien waiting they would tie up to the l(;e of a
l3cr«^ IjLit more frequently to the Hoe, an.l, if tiie obstruction
Avas" not absolutely impassable, resorted to ramminLj and
torucc'.DCs to force a passage. On the 14th and 15th they
made comparatively tine runs to the westward, passinsj^
throuL,di much open water and loose pack-ice. On the i 6th
and 17th they were at a standstill all day within fifty miles
and ill slight of Cape York, the ice beino- there impenetrable
and, widi a fresh southerly wind, threatening a nij). Captain
Fairwcather, of the Aurora, who has had much experience in.
these waters, stated that he hac never before seen the land
ice here extend so far off shore — about thirty-live miles. At

CAPE YORK— MF.I.VnXE BAY.

nine r. m. on the 17th the Thetis and Bear, with the whalers
Aurora and Wolf, jrot under way, the ice havinj^ opened, and
worked throu<rh leads and heavy pack toward Cape York.
At two A. M. on June iSth the ships passed into open water
off Cape York, the Aurora leadin^-, the Wolf next, and then
the Thetis and Bear. The crew of each vessel as slie cleared
the ice gave three cheers. The Arctic was still hull down
astern, but in another hour she, too, ran into the north water.
It was a lovely mornino-, the temperature just below the freez-
ing point, the sun shining brightly, scarcely a ripple on the
fiurface of the water, while thousands of little auks flying
about the ship made the air resound with their cheerful
twitter.

■4

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ii :

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1-^'

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i^ • ■! ■'» V

ll^^'lfiM

1 ^-

398

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

Being now in a region where we might hope to find traces
of the Greely party, our colors were hoisted to attract atten-
tion. The Bear was signalled to push ahead and s(;nil a
party on shore to communicate with the natives, and she was
the first ship to reach the land ice off Cape York. Pr(|)ara-
tions had been made to send in a joint sledging party troin
the two ships with ten days' supplies should it not be possible;
to reach near the cape, but this was not necessary, and Lieu-
tenant Col well, of the Bear, with three men, a sledge au'l small
boat went in, the Thetis coming up. In the meantime the
Bear was despatched to the northward, and Lieutenant Colwell
with his party having met a native on the way out returned
and took passage on board the Thetis until the two ships met
at Littleton Island. Nothing had been heard here of the
Greely party. From this point a search was made at all
places where records or people were at all likely to be found.
The Bear went to the Carey Islands, the Thetis to Conical
Rock, Westernholme and Saunders Island, Cape Parry and
finally to Littleton Island, where she arrived on June 21st.
At the last place the Beebe cache was foimd in good condi-
tion, but no tidings of the Greely party. Until now no one
on board supposeti that they would have to go beyond this
place, but failing here the impression became general that
they were bound to Lady Franklin Bay, with a probability of
a winter in the Arctic, no one supposing for a moment that
the party had come south and been unable to cross the sound.
Letters were got ready to send home by the Alert when she
should go in the fall, and sledging parties were discussed to
start north when the ships could go no farther. On Sunday,
the 22d day of June, 760 rations were landed and cached, and
it was decided to land 3,000 more at Payer Harbor. The
Bear arrived at noon, and at lour p. m. both ships ran across
through open water to Cape Sabine, arriving at Payer Harbor
at ten minutes to seven, where they inacle fast to the ice.
Parties were at once sent to scour the adjacent hills for
records.

Lieutenant Colwell thus describes the finding of die sur-
vivors :

"On this, the 22d day of June, 1884, we found all that re-
mained of the Lady Franklin Bay expedition in command of
Lieutenant A. W. Greely. The object of our trip into these
waters was accomplished. The problem for which so many

THE RESCUE.

399

theories have been advanced has been solved. The anxiety
about the Bccir continued all through the morning ; the gale
was increasing and the weather growing thicker, and still no
sicrns of her. A little after twelve two men who were pulling
iiTa dory from the shore sang out, 'There's the Bear.'
Mount Garry Island shut off the view from the deck, so 1
mounted to the crow nest and anxiously watched the top of
the island. Two or three minutes passed, and then the litde
black nest at her foremast head slowly crept over the edge ;
then her mainmast and mizzenmast heads, with the ensign
and pennant Hying, assured me beyond doubt that it was the
Bear. She soon made fast. Captain Emory reported, and
by 2.30 we were off for Cape Sabine. All sail and steam
carried us across in about four hours. The cairn could be
seen on the top of Brevoort Island, and the location of the
one on Starknecht Island was descried. Lieutenant Taunt
and Ensign Harlow were sent at once to examine these, as
soon as the ships made fast to the ice in Payer Harbor.

"In each of them records of Greely were found, dated in
October, 1883, and reporting all well at that time. The
location of their camp was given as being at a point midway
between Cape Sabine and Cocked Hat Island. Captain
Schley went on board the Bear at once and started for the
camp. The Thetis remained to pick up her officers and men,
and soon joined the Bear at Camp Clay, as the winter-quarters
of the Greely party were called. All remarked on the pos-
sibilities of the next hour while on our way around, but no
one dreamed of the horrible tragedy that was to be revealed.
The wind had increased to well-nigh a hurricane. It tore
wer the hills in furious blasts, driving the water in sheets
iefore it, and heeling the ship to an uncomfortable degree.
The Bear had steamed nearly up to the ice, and people could
be seen running about on shore. Some one was seen on
the ice siirnallinsf with flaes. ' Send doctor with stretchers
and Harlow with photograph machine ; seven alive.' When
it came to the last two words I made him repeat them. With
what careful interest I watched them no one can realize.
It might be D-E-A-D ; but no, A-L-I-V-E waved plainly
through the air, and the fate of the Greely party was know^n
on board the Thetis. Boats were lowered at once, manned
with strong crews, and a party of officers and men started for
the shore. It seemed a long pull. It was a hard pull, but

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AKCnC EXPLORATIONS.

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with water clashing over the rail at every lunge and rollino-
gunwales under in the short but heavy seas, we finally reached
the ice foot and hurried to the scene of misery. A few st(;ps
from the landing we met a black face, with horrid, siarino
eyes, wrapped in a clean blanket that contrasted straivrdy
with the filthy clothes that covered the body of one of the
survivors. It was Fredericks, who was strong enough to walk
to the boats — a miserable sight, but cheerful compared with
the one that met our gaze a few steps farther on. A sh<>ht
incline to the left and the busy relief parties came in view.
Passing a small fiic on which pots of milk were warming we
came to the tent, under which lay four of the poor fellows.
Two lay outside, one widi his face swollen so that hv. could
barely show by his eyes the wild excitement that filled his
being. The other was muttering in a voice that could scarcely
be heard in the howling of the gale his hungry app(;al for
food. Pushing aside the flaj)s of the tent we saw a sioht the
like of which we trust never to see again. Crowded together
in the little of the tent that was left stanching lay Greely and
three of his men in their sleeping-bags, their faces black with
dirt. Their hollow cheeks and their gleaming eyes made a
J icture that we will never forget, and told a story that has
but few rivals in the histories of miserable sufferings. The
short glance revealed four men with the hand of death laid
upon them ; one, indeed, was gasping his last feeble breath
while food and stimulants were forced betvvt^en his teeth,
The fate of the other three was a question of a very few
hours. The gale was killing them in their weak and exhausted
condition. To move against such a wind was an impossibility.
An able-bodied, healthy man bent to it at times. So there
they lay, waiting for death, unable to cook the pitiful ration
of tanned oil sealskin and lichens that they called their
meal.'

The scene at the camp beggars description. It is sufficient
to say that they were starving, and but for the timely relief
afforded some of them would have died durino; the ni":ht.
Connell had been given up as lost. The gale was killing
them, and Major Greely says that he gave himself only about
sixty more hours to live. Fredericks, Long and Brainard
were the strongest of the party, and they were only able with
great difficulty to walk down to the boat. It is a remarkable
coincidence that Mr. J. W. Norman, the ice pilot of the Theti§,

THE RESCUE.

401

who was mate of the Proteus in 1881, and the last person to
say good-bye to Greely at 1 ady Franklin Bay, was also the
first to greet him here, having accompanied Lieutenant Col-
well in the Bear's steam-launch, and being the first to arrive
at the camp he jumped ashore at once. Upon landing, with
his pockets full of bread, he heard from Long the melancholy
;;ews that there were but seven left, and knowing that Greely
was one of them, he ran up the hill to within hailing distance
and called out, " You are all right, Greely ; there are two
ships here for you."

The major, recognizing the voice, replied : " Is that you,
Norman? Cut the tent." The tent had blown down on them
and they were too weak to set it up again. They had not
eaten anything warm for more than two days, being unable
to crawl out and build a fire. Our glance was a short one :
work was to be done, and all turned to do it with heart and
liands. The poor sufferers were wrapped in blankets, fed
with warm milk, beef-tea and crackers, and carried to the
boats. A photograph was taken of the camp despite the time,
II P.M., and the weather. The living having been provided
for, our next sad duty lay with the dead. The graces were
on the summit of a ridge behind the camp — ten of them, with
their scanty coverings of gravel. Each body was carefully
unearthed and wrapped in blankets, marked to correspond
with its number on the diagram that was made and carried
to the boats. This task being finished and the bodies divided
between the boats, the next difficulty was to reach the ship.
It seems almost a miracle that they got safely alongside
and could discharge their sad cargoes, with the survivors in
charge of the sympathizing officers and crew, who removed
their rags, bathed and fed them. Their dead comrades were
piled on the dory and covered with a tarpaulin. We steamed
back to Payer Harbor, and about 4 a. m. made fast to the ice
again in about the same place we first had the information
that led to the stirring events of the night.

The next day the Bear revisited the camp and collected
every scrap and relic appertaining to it. The cairns were
revisited, and the records left by Greely, his pendulum, jour-
nals, the flag of the Nares expedition that he proudly brings
back from the place where they left it as marking their
highest latitude, his instruments, and their records. Our
work being completed, we turned homeward from the places

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402

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

made sad by so many former, and triply so by the recent
disasters. They have closed the gates of Smith's Souiul for
a time, but expeditions to come — and they are sure to come;
— will learn more from the conduct of the party in commancl
of Lieutenant Greely tiian they could ever know from iho
combined experiences of the earliest to the latest explorers
in tiiose remons.

The ships then ran across to Littleton Island. The sound
was still open, but two or three miles to the norduvard was
seen drifting toward us an ominous line of ice which would
probably have prevented our advance in that direction, at
least for some time. We left Littleton Island on June 241I1,
homeward bound, and stood down the coast, taking up cii
route the records left for Commander Coffin, of the Alert, as
we went north, and substituting for them others which told
of die result of the expedition, and directed him to proceed
to Disko. Just south of Cape Parry we met seven of the
Dundee whalers working their way to the westward, and in-
formed them of the result of our mission. This was the last
that we saw of the whalers, and the occasion seems a fit one
to say that during our intercourse with them we found the
captains at all times courteous and obliging, and we gready
enjoyed their jolly good company. We bade them God-
speed, as they did us, and may they have a fine catch. Re-
entering Melville Bay on Jjne 27th we found that the recent
northerly winds had driven the pack to the southward, leav-
ing an open lane of water, like a canal, through which, with
only an occasional block, we readily passed.

On the 30th, off the Devil's Thumb, we met the Alert and
Loch Garry struggling manfully through a blind lead, having
weakened the floe by torpedoes. The combined squadron
then proceeded to the southward, and on the 2d of July the
Thetis and Bear stopped at Upernavik to take on the coal
left there by the Loch Garry, the other two ships going on
to Disko. On the 5th the squadron was once more united at
Disko, making preparations for the homeward voyage.

The amputation of Elison's feet having become imperative
on account of the sloughing of the old wounds, the operation
was performed by the surgeons of the three ships. He had
bee out of his mind several days previously, yet stood die
operation, but, as was feared, had not sufficient strength to
endure, and died three days after. On the 7th the remains

THE RESCUE.

403

of Frederick Christiansen were interred in the jjraveyard at
Godliavn — a detail of officers and men from tach of the
ships, the Danish officials and the entire native population
attending the obsequies. A brief service was held in the
small church by the native priest; Mr. Andersen, the Danish
Inspector of North Greenland, making a short address in
Eni^lish. On the 8th we bade good-bye to the Danish offi-
cials, who here, as well as at Upernavik and Tessinisak, have
treated us with marked kindness and hospitality, and on the
morning of the 9th the squadron sailed for St. John's.

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CHAPTER XXVI.

THE RESCUE CONTINUED.

Official Reports of ihe Rescue of the Survivors of the Greely Party — Terrible SufTerincs—
The Rescued Men frantic with joy — Narratives of Lieutenant Greely and Private Con
nell — Devotion and Heroism of the Men — How Greely was Rescued, as narrated by p,
Naval Officer.

On the 17th day of July the Secretary of the Navy, Hon.
William E. Chandler, received the following telegram :

•'St. John's, N. P., 9 a. m., yu/y iy//i, 1884.
"//on, JV. E. Chandler, Secretary of the Navy, Washington:

"The Thetis, Bear and Loch Garry arrived here to-day
from West Greenland. All are well. We separated from the
Alert 150 miles north during a gale. At 9 p. m., June 2 2d.
five miles off Cape Sabine, in Smith's Sound, the Thetis and
Bear rescued alive Lieutenant A. W. Greely, Sergeant Brain-
ard. Sergeant Fredericks, Sergeant Long, Hospital Steward
Biederbeck, Private Connell, and Sergeant Elison, the only
survivors of the Lady Franklin Bay expedition. Sergeant
Elison had lost both hands and feet by frostbite, and died
July 6th at Godhavn, three days after the amputation, which
had become imperative.

" Seventeen of the twenty-five persons composing this ex-
pedition perished by starvation at the point where found.
One was drowned while sealing to procure food. Twelvt
bodies of the dead were rescued, and are now on board the
Thetis and Bear. One, Esquimau Turnsvik, was buried at
Disko, in accordance with the desire of the Inspector of West-
ern Greenland. Five bodies buried in the ice fort near the
camp were swept away to sea by winds and currents before
my arrival, and could not be recovered. The names of the
dead which were recovered, with the date of death, are as
follows: Sergeant Cross, January ist, 1884; Wederick, Esqui-
mau, April 5th ; Sergeant Linn, April 6th ; Lieutenant Lock-

(404)

THE RESCUE.

405

wood, April 9th ; Sergeant Jewell, April 1 2th ; Private Ellis,
May 19th; Sergeant Ralston, May 23d; Private Whistler,
May 24th; Sergeant Israel. May 27th; Lieutenant Kisling-
bury, June ist; Private Henry, June 6th; Private Schneider,
June 18th. Names of dead buried in the ice fort, with date
of death, where bodies were not recovered, as follows : Ser-
o-eant Rice, April 9th, 1884; Corporal Salem, June 3d; Pri-
vate Bender, June i6th; Acting Assistant Sergeant Pavy,
June 6th; Sergeant Gardner, June 12th. Drowned while
breaking through the newly-formed ice while sealing, Jens
Edwards, Esquimau, April 24th.

"I would urgently suggest that the bodies now on board
be placed in metallic cases here for safer and better trans-
portation in a seaway. This appears to me imperative.
Greely abandoned Fort Conger, August 9th, 1883, and
reached Baird Inlet September 29th, following, with the
entire party well. He abandoned all his boats and was adrift
for thirty days on an ice-floe in Smith's Sound. His perma-
nent camp was established October 21st, 1883, at the point
where he was found. During nine months his party had to
live upon a scant allowance of food, brought from Fort Con-
ger, that cached at Payer Harbor and Cape Isabella by Sir
George Nares in 1S75, but found much damaged by lapse of
time; that cached by Beebe at Cape Sabine in 1882, and a
small amount saved from the wreck of the Proteus in 1883,
and landed by Lieutenants Garlington and Colwell on the
beach where Greely's party was found camped. When these
provisions were consumed the party was forced to live upon
boiled sealskin strips from their sealskin clothing, lichens and
shrimps procured in good weather, when they were strong
enough to make exertion. As 1,300 shrimps were required
to fill a gallon measure the labor was too exhausting to
depend upon them to sustain life entirely. The channel be-
tween Cape Sabine and Littleton Island did not close, on ac-
count of the violent gales all winter, so that 240 rations at
the latter point could not be reached. All of Greely's rec-
ords and all instruments brought by him from Fort Conger
are recovered and are on board.

"The Greely party are very much improved since their
rescue, but were critical in the extreme when found, and for
several days after. Forty-eight hours' delay in reaching them
would have been fatal to all now living.

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ARCriC EXPLORATIONS.

"Smith's Sound was not open when I left Cape Sabine.
The winter about Melville Bay was the most severe lor
twenty years.

"Tiiis jrreat result is entirely due to the unwearied cncr>nr
of yourself and the Secretary of War in fitting out this cxpe-
dition for the work it has had the honor to accomplish.

" W. S. Schley, Commander."

On the same day Lieutenant Greely sent the followIrK^
despatch to the Chief Signal Officer, General Hazen :

"St. John's, N. F.. 7?ify 17M.
"For the first time in three centuries England yields to
America the honor of having penetrated farthest north.
Lieutenant Lock wood and Sergeant Brainard, May 13th,
reached Lock wood Island, latitude 83.24, longitude 44.05.
They saw from 2,000 feet elevation no land north or nortii-
west, but to nortiieast Greenland, Cape Robert Lincoln, lati-
tude 83.35, longitude 38. Lieutenant Lockwood was turned
back in 1883 by open water on north Greenland shore, the
party barely escaping drifting into the Polar Ocean. Dr.
Pavy in 1882, following the Markham route, was adrift one
day in the Polar Ocean north of Cape Joseph Henry and
escaped to land, abandoning nearly everything. In 1882 I
made a spring, and later on a summer trip into the interior
of Grinnell Land, discovering Lake Hazen, some 60 by 10
miles in extent, which, fed by the ice-cap of north Grinnell
Land, drains Ruggles River and Weyprecht Fiord into Cony-
beare Bay and Archer Fiord. From the summit of Mount
Arthur, 5,000 feet, the contour of land west of the Conijjer
Mountains convinced me that Grinnell Land tended directly
south from Lieutenant Aldrich's farthest in 1876. In 1883
Lieutenant Lockwood and Sergeant Brainard succeeded in
crossing Grinnell Land and, ninety miles from Beatri.\ Bay,
the head of Archer's Fiord, struck the head of a fiord from
the western sea, temporarily named by Lockwood the Greely
Fiord. From the centre of the fiord, in latitude 80 deg. 30
min., longitude 78 deg. 30 min.. Lieutenant Lockwood saw
the northern shore termination some twenty miles west, the
southern shore extending some fifty miles, with Cape Lock-
wood some seventy miles distant, apparently a separate land
from Grinnell Land. I have named the new land Arthur

THE KLSCUE.

407

Land. Lieutenant Lockwood followed, .i^oin^r and returning
on an ice-cap avera<;ing about 150 feet perpendicular face.
It follows that the Grinnell Land interior is ice-capped with a
belt of country some sixty miles wide between the northern
anil southern ice caps.

"Ill March, 1884, Sergeant Long, while hunting, looked
from the northwest side of Mount Carey to Hayes' Sound,
sccinLj on the northern coast three capes westward of the
farthest seen by Nares in 1876. The sound extends some
twenty miles farther west than shown by the English chart,
but is possibly shut in by land which showed up across the
western end. The two years' station duties, observations, ail
explorations and the retreat to Cape Sabine were accom-
plished without loss of life, disease, serious accident or even
severe frost-bites. No scurvy was experienced at Conger,
and but one death from it occurred last winter.

"Greely, Commanding."

Another telegram sent by Lieutenant Greely to General
Hazen on the same day reads as follows:

" Brainard, Bietlerbeck, Connell, Fredericks, Long, myself,
sole survivors, arrived here to-day, having been rescued at
the point of death from starvation by relief-ships Thetis and
Bear June 22d, at Camp Clay, northwest of Cape Sabine.
All are now in good httalth, but weak. I abandoned P^ort
Conger August 9th, and was frozen in the pack off Victoria
Head August 29tii ; abandoned steam-launch September 1 ith,
eleven miles northeast of Cocked Hat Island. When on the
point of landing, we were three times driven southwest by
storms into Kane's Sea. Finally arrived September 29th in
Baird Inlet. Learning by scouting parties of the Proteus
disaster, and tliat no provisions had been left for us from Cape
Isabella to Sabine, I moved, and established winter-quarters
at Camp Clay, halfway between Sabine and Cocked Hat.
Inventory showed that by daily ration, four and one-third
ounces meat, seven of bread and dog biscuits, and four ounces
of miscellaneous, the party would have ten clays' full rations
left for crossing Smith Sound to Littleton Island up to March
1st.

"Unfortunately Smith Sound remained open the entire
winter, rendering crossing impossible. Game failed, despite
daily hunting from early February. Before the sun returned

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408

ARCriC EXI'LOKAIIONS.

only 500 pounds of meat could bo obtained. I)uriii<> this
yc-ar minute shrimps, seaweed, sassafras, rock lichens, and
seal-sUin were resorted to for food, with results as shown Ijv
the number of survivors. The last re«;ular food was issm il
May 14th. Only 150 pounds of meat having been left by
Garlington, comi^elled me to send in November four men tn
obtain 144 pounds of I'jiglish meat at Isabella. Duriivrihc
trip Klison froze solid both hands and feet, and lost them, sur-
viving-, however, tiirough our tcrribh; winter and spring, until
July 8th. The survivors owe their lives to the indomitable
energy of Captain Schley and Lieutenant Emory, who, pre-
ceded by three and accompanied by five whalers, forced tin ir
vessels from Upernavik, through Melville Bay, into North
Water at Cape York with the foremost whaler. They trained
a yard wherever possible and always held it. Smith's Sound
was crossed and the party rescued during one of the most
violent gales I have ever known, the boats being handled
only at the imminent risk of swamping. Four of us were
then unable to walk, and could not have survived exceeding
twenty-four hours. Every care and attention was p- n us.
We have .saved and bring back copies of meteorolog 'dal,
astronomical, magnetic, pendulum, and other observations;
also pendulum, Yale and standard thermometers, forty-eiuht
photographic negatives, a collection of blanks and photo-
graphic proofs, Esquimau relics and other things necessarily
abandoned. The Thetis will remain here for five days prob-
ably."

Commander Schu^y, in a conversation with the writer, thus
described the findinr and rescuing of the Greely party:

"On the 22d of J'jne, while lying in the drift ice off Cape
Sabine, in Smith's So:ind, latitude 78" 45' north, longitude 77"
30' west, and which forms part of Ellesmere Land, we sighted
signals of distress at a distance of about seven miles. It was
about 9 o'clock p. m., and the sun shining brightly, but bitterly
cold.

"After considerable trouble we steamed down towards the
pack-ice upon which they were, and a horrible sight met our
eyes. Lieutenant Greely, Brainard, Fredericks, Long, Beid-
erback, and Connell were crying like children and hug^ini^
each other frantically. They seemed frantic with joy. I put
off in a cutter, and after great difficulty reached them. The\
flew at me, and I at first imagined they were crazy. The)'

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(409)

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410

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS

seized each of the men in the boat, hugged them, kissed their
hands, and did everything one could imagine to show their
joy and gratitude. All but poor Elison. His feet and hands
were so badly frozen that he could not move. He lay still
on the ground and moaned. The others of the party, also,
were more or less frost bitten, but they seemed to forget their
sufferings.

" The party on the ice looked as if they could not live five
hours, they looked so feebK^ notwithstanding the almost
superhuman str ngth they had shown when we reached them.
Slowly, one by one, seventeen of the party had yielded up
their lives to the demon starvation. One of them, the strong-
est, had gone seal-hunting. He never returned. He was
drowned while trying to get to a seal before it reached the
edge of a floe upon which they were. He missed his footinc^,
fell into a seam in the ice and was seen no more.

"We encountered a gale day before yesterday which was
so furious that the Alert separated from us in it. Greely, in
his report to me, said that on August Qtli, 1883, he abandoned
Fort Conger. They travelled northerly, and, ai'ter consider-
able privation and suffering from the cold, reached Baird
Inlet on September 29th. I'here was no one in the party
who was not in full possession of health, and, e.xcepting their
isolated position, every tiling was well."

During the trip from the Arctic region to St. John's Lieu-
tenant Greely gave a detailed description at the mess-table
of the Thetis of the hardships nis party encountered during
the long winter in camp on Cape Sabine. The following is
the substance of his story:

" When the site for the camp had been selected we set at
once to building a house to shelter us from the severities of
the winter. Stones were gathered together and piled in walls
to enclose a space of about 25 by 17 feet. Over the top of
this was placed the whaleboat found at Starknecht Island, left
by the Neptune in 1S82. This formed a ridge-pole, and the
rest of the roof was made by stretching tent and boat-sails
down to the sides of the house and pinning them down with
rocks. Snow was heaped up to the eaves, which were about
five feet high, to keep out the wind. In this miserable hut
we laid down from the ist of November until the latter part
of May. From the inside the walls were barely high enough
to allow the men to sit up in their sleeping-bags. All during

THE RESCUE.

411

our retreat from Fort Conger fuel had been a very precious
article. Every thin<i^ was saved, of course, and the strictest
watch kept on its issue. There was never enough for more
than cooking purposes, so that all during the long, dark, bitter
cokl days of winter we had no source of warnitli except our
clothes and sleeping-bags. As a matter of economy cooking
was done only twice a day, and then die discomforts from the
smoke more than counterbalanced the little warmth which
came from the blaze. At times it was suffocating, and the
quarters would have to be vacated to save life. The fuel was
cut ill the smallest pieces, the amount for every fire carefully
weighed before serving out, and every precaution taken to
drive the neat against the heating surface of the vessel.
Much of the heat was expended in reducing die ice and snow
to water for our tea and coffee. By using a stove patented
by ourselves, witli a funnel-cap over the fire, with the kettle
at the small end, little escaped its legitimate purpose. At
all times during our stay in the Arctic regions we have used
brackish water, containing such a percentage of salt that tlie
experience of all other expeditions would have seemed to
indicate that violent scurvy should have resulted, whereas we
had none excepting a case in January, which was of a mild if
not doubtful form. The light was obtained from a miserable
Esquimau lamp, with a single wick dipped in seal-oil, which
would furnish light for about eight hours a day. Only one
man could read at a time by it, and he had to crouch down
close to it. Turns would be taken at reading aloud. All our
literature was read and reread.

"The sun disappeared the latter part of October not to
come again until the middle of February. No warnuli could
be obtained from its rays, and it was along in March before
it shone on our hut, ovvinsi' to the liiirh hills around us. The
only news that the party received of the outside world during
all this time was obtained from scraps of paper taken from a
box of lemons landed bv the Proteus before she was crushed
by the ice. We dried these carefully and kept them, so that
they could be read over and over again by each one of the
party. The lemons were frozen and in a good state of j:)res-
ervation, and were of inestimable value to the men in their
weak and debilitated condition. Every Sunday I served out
a quarter of a lemon to each person. Bread and meat ra-
tions were issued daily : all other stores were issued on

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ARCTIC EXI'LORATIONS.

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Thursdays. On Sundays the ration was increased a little.
At Conger I had been in the habit of lettincr each man choose
his bill of fare when his birthday came, and I tried to keep it
up during our reduced days at Camp Clay. Any litde tliver-
gencc that would break the monotony was of great value.
Days to come would be anticipated, while reference to those
past would occupy us when there were none ahead to look
for. A favorite amusement was to make out a bill of fare of
what we would like when relief came. The tastes of the men
were astonishingly varied, and when we look at them now
seem almost ludicrous. I tried to call off their attention from
a contemplation of the frightful situation in which we were
placed. A series of lectures was begun, and other intellectual
amusements, all of which had a highly beneficial effect on the
llagging spirits of the party. Two hours a day could be filled
in by lecturing on various subjects of personal interest, in-
eluding the United States, their products, etc. Each State
would furnish the data, and when the lecture was over a
general discussion would be entered into by all hands, each
one expressing his views. Mr. Rice, the photographer, would
devote another hour each day, either in telling stories, of
which he had a large supply, or else would draw from his
f.tock o( general information, of which he had a great deal.
Dr. Pavy would give very instructive and carefully thought-
up lectures on history, despite the wretched condition of his
audience. Six days of the week were occupied in this manner.
On Saturday the subject would be moving incidents by flood
and field, in which each person would speak in turn. In this
manner the personal experiences of those who went on the
various sledging and exploring parties became familiar to all,
and enables us now to speak most intelligently of all the work
we have accomplished. The seventh day we rested quietly,
each one with his own tlioucrhts.

"The most trying position of any individual member of the
party was that occupied by Sergeant Brainard. Placed in a
similar position, not one man in a tliousand would have been
as faithful to the tempting responsibilities that were allotted
him as he was while issuing rations to the party. He found
himself, day after day, exposed to the temptation of partaking
of more than his share of the rapidly decreasing supplies,
but he acted with heroic fidelity, and never in one instance
4.bused the confidence reposed in him by his comrades. In-

THE RESCUE.

413

deed, he must have used less food than the allotted amount,
as the supplies under his care turned out on the approach ol
spring fully two per cent, more than the most sanguine of
the party had dared to anticipate. In this way the dreary
weeks and months dragged slowly and hopelessly along, with -.
out leaving a ray of hope to light up the souls of that doomed
company of victims to the cause of science."

On June 3d the party reached the highest northern latitude
by four miles in latitude 83° 24' 5".

Private Connell, who soon recovered from his sickness, has
aiven the following narrative of the sufferings and hardships
experienced by the Greely colonists during their stay in the
polar regions :

"After the quarters had been completed a party of five pro-
ceeded northward in a whale-boat and established a cache of
provisions on the west coast of Robeson Channel, to be used
the next spring by exploring parties. This party succeeded
in placing a cache at or near Cape Beechey, but on account
of the closing in of the ice on the western shore they had to
leave their boat until next year and proceed overland to Fort
Conger. They were for fifteen couLCCutive hours at the oars,
and had many narrow escapes from being crushed by the
heavy ice drifting south in Robeson Channel. In November
of the same year Lieutenant Lockwood, with a party of eight
men, undertook to cross Robeson Channel to the Polaris'
winter-quarters of 1871, but on account of the darkness and
of the ice being still in motion, the party had to return to the
station. This was the last party that went in the field of ex-
ploration in the year 1 88 1 . The party then settled down in
their dreary home until the return of the sun, which disap-
peared below the horizon on October i6th, and did not return
again until March ist. The monotony of the dark winter was
relieved by lectures by the officers of the expedition and other
amusements gotten up by the men. In the spring of 1882
the whole party were reported in good health by the surgeon,
and preparations were made for explorations to the north and
northwest. Lieutenant Lockwood, Sergeants Brainard and
Jewell, and one native, with a dog-sledge, on the first day of
March, crossed Robeson Channel to Hall's Rest, from there
to Newman's Bay and back again to Fort Conger, where they
arrived on the loth. This party travelled while the tempera-
ture was 58° Fahr. below zero, and were storm-bound for

i;/i

'ii;

\M' ills: °| : 'If

lili;i!r

4-4

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

three days in Newman's Bay. Another party, under cliarae
of Sergeant Brainard, started on March 12th to place a boat
and small depot of provisions near Cape Summer on the
south side of Newman's Bay. This party had a very cold
temperature during the night of the 12th, the index-pen goincr
into the bulb of the thermometer, the thermometer graduatin^^
to 61° below zCiO. They returned to the station on the
evening of the 20th, none the worse after their cold expe-
rience. On March 19th Dr. Pavy and Sergeant Rice, with
Esquimaux and a dog-sledge, started north to try and find
out if any land could be discovered north of Cape Joseph
Henry. They met with open water, and, drifting on tlie ice-
floe for two days north of Cape Hecla, losing all their camp-
equipage on the floe and barely escaping with their lives, they
returned to Fort Conger, arriving there on May ist. The
next party, under the command of Lieutenant Lockwood, to
explore the nortl; coast of Greenland, started on April 3d, a
supporting party going as far as Cape Bryant, when Lieuten-
ant Lockwood, with Sergeant Brainard and one Esquimau and
dog-sledge, proceeded north, reaching Jackwood Island on
May I ith, latitude 83° 24'.

" They named Cape Robert Lincoln, in 85° north, planting
the stars and stripes nearer the north pole than any other
flag afloat. The third party, under Lieutenant Greely, started
westward on May 25th, and made important discoveries in
that direction, discovering .1 fiord leading into the Conybeare
Bay. Leading from the northwest into this fiord a beautifu'
river discharges, its mouth about two miles wide. Its length
is about twenty miles, and it was open at its head when the
party arrived there on the last day of April. The oudet of
this is now a beautiful lake, surrounded on the north and
west side by a range of mountains, where a number of glaciers
were cropping through and discharging into the lake. Sev-
eral musk oxen, wolves, hares and ptarmigans were seen in
the vicinity of tiiis lake, and the party claims that without a
doubt the musk ox winters in or about the vicinity of the
lake, and does not migrate, as some Arctic authorities claim.
Lieutenant Greely's party returned to the station on May
loth. This finished the important sledging parties for the
spring. Lieutenant Lockwood returning on June 1st, about
which time the ice commenced to break up. Lieutenant
Greely, however, made another journey, with a cart and

THE RESCUE.

415

packs, in June, extending his previous explorations farther to
the westward. The ice in Kennedy's Channel broke up early
in July, and the channel was entirely clear of ice in the first
davs of August. Lieutenant Greely went in the launch to
Cape Cracroft on August 12th, and could see no ice to the
southward as far as could be seen by a powerful telescope
from an elevation of about 400 feet. The party could not
understand why a ship did not reach them, the season being
such an open one to the north. They were disappointed
but not discouraged. During the summer and fall a great
quantity of musk ox meat was procured, which lasted
tliroughout the winter, giving a fresh meat diet three times
a week.

"We settled down to our second winter in the Arctic
regions, and carried out about the same general routine that
had been observed during the preceding winter. Every one
was very cheerful with the coming ot spring again. The
health of the party was reported good by the surgeon. There
were caches laid out at Cape Baird early in February, 1883,
to be used in case of a retreat southward. In the first days
of March Lieutenant Lockwood, Sergeant Brainard and Ser-
geant Jewell made a preliminary trip to Newman's Bay before
starting to extend their previous discoveries along the Green-
land coast, and returned to the station after an absence of five
or six days. In the latter part of March Lieutenant Lock-
wood, with two sledges, started on the trip for which he made
the preliminary one, but on account of meeting a large ex-
tent of open water to the north of Repulse Harbor, extending
across to Lincoln Bay on the Grinnell side and northward as
far as he could see, he had to return to the station. In the
meantime a party left the station for Polaris Harbor, and
brought across an English 20-foot iceboat, which had been
left there by Lieutenant Beaumont, of the Nares expedition
of 1875 and 1876. On April 25th Lieutenant Lockwood and
Sergeant Brainard, with one native and a dog sledge, started
westward to extend Lieutenant Greely's explorations, and dis-
covered on May 1 3th an arm of the Western Ocean in the
shape of a large fiord ; also a large glacier extending across
the face of Grinnell Land, north and south, which they com-
pared to the Chinese wall. This glacier is probably the
largest that has ever been discovered excepting the Hum-
boldt. Its face is much longer and higher than the Hum-

i I

■i! f

> Ml

' i 1 1 ■ "

li^^';^:-

R'^M ^'i;

^ 1

■?

. !i

) ;

410

AUll l( I'.Xn.OKAIIONS.

boldl, however, ami .1 most rcmarkal)!*' fcaliin! of il was its
lailUliil r(*s(«iul)iaiu< to llu> surraet' of (lie cartl), <'xliH)iiin;; lii||
aiul valley. It was praetieally ;«ii ice cap, thront;h whi« h only
the hij^hesl peaks projeeted. The name ol this j^laeier was
^all)se(plelltly thani;eii to ,\i;assi/ ( il.uier. They heiii;; already
on short rations, were loinpelleil to return to I'orl C"on"(i
This lioiil. whieh is an arm ol the Western ( )eean, they cx-
plor<>il lor a tlistanee ol twenty miles. Ascemlin^ an < l( va
lion t)l about .1 thous.uul leel. where they eouKl see the litinl
lamls t( 1 nunatiuL; this lioul, the Western ( )cean eouKI he •(•en
several miles hevoml, prt)vin!:; ( onelusively that drinnell l.mul
is an islanil. The parly relurneil to the station ahoiM May
2'j{\\. laeutenant l.odswooil and Ser«4<'.»nt Hrainanl made
another trip tt)waiil ihe I'niled Stales Mountains, ^\\\r norili
tVom the st.uion. and found that the north of the mount, liiis
was entireK iee. rapped with sexeral ijlaeiers tliseluui'iin'
throuLjh the v^aps .ind valleys ol the mountauis.

" NoiiuniLj further w.is ilone this sununer in lh(* line of ex
pK>raiit>n. No ships arriviuj^ by AuL;ust 9th tlu; parly
ah.iiuloiu'd the st.ition and relrealeil southward in three
boats, in tow o\ the steam lauiu h. Hy laUiuj; atlvanla^c ol
westerly wimls aiul llu' stale ol the iee leads opi.'nin^ alonu
the shor(\ tlu^y reaeheil Cap<^ I lawkes by Auoust 26lh, pickinu
\)p a cache o\ provisions there. X'iewinj^ from W^ashin^lon
Irvins.; Island open water as l.ir as Cape Sabiiie. Lieuleiiaiu
(ireely conchuUxl to keep on with the launch a!ul boats lo
Ca|)e Sabine ; but belori* reachiui^ there, the. ice closini^ in
aiul the liMnpiMalure that nii;ht j^oinj.;' below zero, the boats
were hauK'd tm the lloe, where further ilevelopmenls of tiu-
ice were awaited. W^e ilrifteil with tlu; whole pack, the ocmi-
eral drill bein^ st)uth toward Cape Sabine. On Septenihcr
9th the launch and two boats were abandoned, the i)arly with
sledv^e. iceboat and rations making over the ice toward Capi;
Sabine, it w-as necessarv for ihe parly to travel five miles lo
make onv mile oood. When within about six miles of Cocktxi
Hat Island a southwesterly L^ah^ sprani^ up and tirove llicni
back into Kane's Sea attain. I'hree or four days after wo
made another attempt to reach the shore with boat and sledge,
this time octtino- within two miles of the shore, but a northerly
i^ale drove the ice southwanl past Cape Sabine. This gale
lasted four days. The lloe on which the party were drilled
as tar south as Baird Inlet, where they crot off the ice. On

'I I IK KKSCUI',

4'7

S('()l(inl>rr 20II1 prf'pnr.ilIoMs wcrr made for vvitilcrini' niuii

SI I

ith iii'i'' ;r; llx" cnndilinn ol tlir \(c vvoiild permit a pa-.sa^ff
lo LillisioM Island. In die mranliinc S'li-caiil Ki

acio;

( <■

wiis sciil li> ( a|>f Sahiiw (o scf il any n-jord or rations vvrn;
ll„.|-,.. I )i',( ovciin;- tlic little that had l>een lell then: liy tin*
|V(»|( hs and NepliMie. it was then decided dial the wholf!
v(' to (ape S.d)ineand winter in that vicinity,
hut. ( 'olle( lii).. ;dl rations and (lothiii!' tlur

i);iil\

hoiild move

,.|r( Mil", a snow

nail) w re moved in liy N<»venil»er 1 :,t, ( )n November i:t
SdiM ant i\iee with three men went, lo Cape Isahella with
a sm;ill sled;;<' to hrini; 150 ponnds of < ann'd meal left liy
Sir /Mian Yonnj;, ol the I'andora, aftervvaid tin- jeannetle, in

"All'M" leavini; (_"ap<' Isabella on the reJinii trip ('orpo.al
I'Jison LM)i his feel and hamls hadly Iro/.en, and, hein;^ entirely
(•\liaiist<-(l, the ahandomnent o| the meat was necessary in
(irdcr that he should he hauled on the sledi^e toward the
(aii1|). SerL'cant Rice (am<- on ahead to :i<nd a party hat k
relief. They started at once under Lieutenant Lo(kwf )d
1 I )r, I'avy to hrinj.; ldi;.on home on a larj^e i'aii^li h
Me lost his hands and feet <lurin<j tlve winl<'r. O

lor
aiu

slcil'.'e

Ivhriiary 1st Serjeant Kice, wi

ith i-

.(|iiimaux, tried to reach

l.illNlon Island to sec; what therf* was there, in case

h..(l

l()iiu)v<' on March tst.Iiut on account ol Smith's Sound heini^
open throujdiout th(; winter tluy were comp<'lled to return
ailrr an ahseiict; of .six days from the siutvv hut. Smith's
.Soiiiul c()iitinu(!d f)j)(;n throui^hout the <ntire winter and
spriii!^, and was so at the timt: of th(; arrival of tlie relief
ships. Death from starvation romuKMiced A|)ril 4th — Cross
liaviiii;- dieil of scurvy |anuary i.Sth — and the last was on
[uiic i()th. I'Or my part three hours later would have finished

Schneider — not later
than I do."

7th

mc, and an arrival on June 17th mii^ht j^ossihly liavc; .save(

il)h

i(^ rest ol my story you know

l)f;tte

111 rej^ard to tlu; heroic death of .SerLjcant Rice, Mr. Con-
iK^ll said: "Not s("ein!j any chance of L''<:ttin'j to Littleton
Lland, and no provisions l)(;in<^ on hand, S(;rireant Rice volim-
tccrcd, with one man, Sen^^eant L'redericks, to try and recover
meat that had heen abandoned on an ice Hoe the previous
lall. Leaving- the sleepin^^-haj^s and rations at the huts that
had been built at Haird inlet, he j)roceeded Avith an empty
slcdoti to Shelter to find the meat and regain his little cache

1.
f ' I ■

!,<

f! ■!! ,■ ! n

III i»

■?i

lif H

'^1

•wSH

Jifil

mi' ■' '-l!

IF' '11 ,

418

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

at the huts. A severe and cold storm coming on that even-
ing he died of exhaustion and exposure on the floe. His last
words were : ' Tell Lieutenant Greely that I tried very hard
to get the meat, but could not succeed.' Fredericks remained
witli Rice until he died, and then returned to Shelter. Com-
ing back the next day to bury Rice on the ice Hoc, I'red-
ericks himself hauled tiie sledge and sleeping-bags back to
the camp."

The Ibllowing interer.ting summary of the voyage of the
Greely relief expedition Is furnished by one of the officers
who took part in the gallant rescue :

"The transfer of the remains of the dead of the Lady
Franklin Bay expedition to Major-General Hancock, of tiie
United States Army, completes the last act of the tragtdy, so
far as the squadron is concerned, and the Greely relief expe-
dition of 1884 becomes a thing of tiie past.

" The ships will go to the Navy Yard at Brooklyn, where
they will be put out of commission, the Thetis and Bear to be
sold in accordance with the provisions of the act of Congress
which authorized their purchase, and the Alert probably to be
returned to England with the thanks of the American people
for her generous loan.

" It is a great pity that the first two of these vessels cannot
be retained in the naval service, as they would be very useful
in deep-sea surveys such as have been carried on in the Pa-
cific for some years past by the Tuscarora and Ranger, which
were thus diverted from iheir legitimate duties. They are
staunch and excellent sea-boats, economical under steam and
easily handled under sail by a very small crew, with ample
stowage capacity for coal and provisions, and comfortable
quarters for officers and men. Why sell them, then, when
they can be utilized by the government in many ways? They
are very evenly matched, though the Bear is the faster of the
two by perhaps half a knot, but either of them is capable in
fine weather and smooth water of eight knots per hour on an
expenditure of seven tons of coal per day under steam alone,
with an increase of from one to two knots per hour if the
wind favors. With a head wind and sea the Bear, on account
of her sharp bow and lean model, loses less in speed than the
Thetis, while the latter, with bluff bow, greater breadth of
beam and ketde bottom, is superior as a sea-boat, and better
for the work, as, having less length, she answers her helm

<4Si

■#

THE RESCUE.

419

more readily. Both, however, are most excellent ships, and
none better could have been found for the service on which
they were sent. Though not seriously injured by the rou«;h
usage wiiich they necessarily received while navigating in the
ice and through unsurveyed seas, neither of them "returns
wholly unscathed. Both struck twice, at different times, on
unknown rocks, and the Thetis lost a part of her jib-boom by
collision with an iceberg, and injured her rudder to such an
extent that it was found necessary to ship a spare one, while
Mrs. Thetis, the mother of Achilles, who poses as figure-head
of that sliip, has been converted into an Amazon by the loss
of her right breast, the result of ' riding it out,' as Dr. Kane
expresses it, ' in lee of a friendly berg.'

HOME OF THE EIDER DUCKS.

"Now that it is all over we conclude that we did not have
a bad time of it altogether, except the commanding officer,
the measure of whose responsibility it is impossible to over-
(■scimate. The temperature was se'dom very low, 12° to 15°
Fahr. being the lowest recorded, and generally it was quite
mikl. There was a great deal of snow, and it was not com-
fortable to stand watch for four hours in a driving storm, but
we were warmly clad, and soon became accustomed to it.
Working through the ice possesses a strange fascination,
which, together with the insomnia induced by continuous day-
lii^ht, frequently kept us up all night. When we were forcing
a lead the forecastle-rail would generally be filled with officers
and men hanging over the bow and watching the ship as she

li;v

420

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

rose on the floes, gliding upon her forefoot and bnakina
through, sending the fields of ice to the right and left, it" there
was room for them to separate, or, as was more frequently
the case, backing off for another blow. Sometimes torpedoes
were resorted to for the purpose of weakening the ice and
thus enabling tlie ship to bore through ; but we were much
disappointed in the effect of these. However, they were us(;d
once at a very critical moment to good purpose. Just north
of Cape Dudley Diggers the Thetis encountered a neck of
very thick ice some sixty feet across, connecting two larye
floe pieces and separating us from a very fine lead Ram-
ming failed to force a passage, and left us with our bow-
jammed high and dry on the floe so that the engines could
not back her off. Six torpedoes were accordingly laid — four
of gunpowder in line ahead, one of gun-cotton and one of
gunpowder on the starboard-bow, holes being bored for them
through the ice, so that they could be dropped down about
four feet below the surface of the water. They were ex-
ploded simultaneously, and so eased the nip that, by reversing
the engines, we immediately glided off, and the floe ahead
was so cracked that we had now no difficulty in boring
through. This was on the 19th day of June, only three days
before the rescue, when a delay of only a few hours might
have been fatal to some of the little band of survivors at
Camp Clay. The gunpowder torpedoes invariably gave more
satisfactory results than the gun-cotton, the latter being too
quick in their action, so that they simply blew clean holes in
the ice from six to ten feet in diameter, without makinof any
lateral fracture.

"After we got north of Disko the shootinc: was fine.
Dovekin, loons, and eider ducks were abundant, and, after
reaching the north water at Cape York, we had the litde auk,
the most toothsome of all Arctic birds, and the only one that
is not more or less fishy in flavor. At Littleton Island, on the
day after the rescue, when the procuring of game was an ob-
ject, in order that we might have fresh meat for the survivors.
parties from the two ships bagged more than three hundred
eider ducks in a few hours' time. With larger game we were
less fortunate. Only two polar bears were seen, one of them
too far distant to go after, as the ships were under way at the
time, while the other was shot by one of the men on board
the whaler Arctic. We ate of the steak of this, a last year's

THE RESCUE.

421

cub, and found it quite palatable, though the meat was ver)'
coarse in texture and a little fishy. One of our finest dogs
(Growler) partook freely of the liver and died with fits the
next clay. It is a peculiar fact, which has been commented'
upon by nearly every Arctic explorer, that the liver of the
white bear is poisonous to both man and beast, though so far
as I know no one has ever ascertained the cause.

"In our intercourse with the captains of the Scotch whalers
we found them to a man jovial and genial good company, al-
ways ready to give us the benefit of their experience in the
ice, though they made no secret of the fact that they would
use every endeavor to secure the reward of 5^25,000 offered
by Congress to any but a national vessel for the recovery or
information as to the tate of the Greely party. After leaving
the Duck Islands, the Arctic, Aurora and Wolf were gener-
ally in company with the ships of the expedition, but upon
one occasion, the Aurora, Captain Fairweather, after waiting
thirty-six hours with her nose tied up to a point in the ice
where the prospect of a lead seemed favorable, gave up, and
standing in toward the land tried to work an inshore lead.
She had scarcely left us when the lead opened and the re-
maining four ships stood on, making a fine run toward Cape
York. Several days afterward, however, the Aurora, by main
energy, came up with us agaui, and, referring to his mistaken
lack of patience, Captain Fairweather remarked: 'I said to
myself, ah, Jem, mon, you're a dom fool ; the boys have
beaten you.' But she was the first ship finally to reach the
open water. The Arctic, Captain Guy, had generally led the
van, and was by all odds the largest and most powerful ship
in the fleet ; but on the evening when we made our last start,
before arriving at Cape York, she was so completely em-
bayed in the ice that it was some time before she could get
clear and follow. We preceded her into the north water by
about an hour.

"When tied up to the ice waiting for a lead visits were
freely interchanged between the ships of the expedition and
the whalers, and the latter initiated us into the mysteries of
what they call a ' mollie,* which term is adopted from the
' molle-moke,' a noisy, chattering sea-bird, which feeds on the
refuse of the whales caught. The captain of one of the
ships desirinof to entertain his friends hoists a bucket at the
mizzen topgallantmast head. This in a well-regulated, civil-

ill

< f<

VMli

;i;<

If •*■

422

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

izcd port would indicate a dcsin; to have tlic water Ijoaj.
aloi^Ljsidc to su|)i)Iy tlic sl'.i|) with fresh water. Ilni hcj,.
it means anythini;^ but water. The captains of the oih,.,-
whalers in siL,dit repair on Ijoard, ami witii Scotch whiskey
and clay pipes, intc^rspersed with yarns, they mak{> u ni,,|,t-
of it. Mere words are inadc-quate to describe these; ciucr-
tainiiKMits, and perhaps liie terse style which an I'jiwlj^|j
ac(|uaintanc(.' of mine adopted in relatini^" his experiences on
board a Russian frii^ate will '^\vc the best idea ot them. H,.
would say, as if inliMidini^ to spin you a lont^ yarn, 'i.ctinc
tell you about my visit to the Russian llai;ship. I went on
board and they j^ave me a drinU which thc;y called "cadet
punch," and llu;y 'oisted me over the side with a thini^ they
called a w'ip.'

"Our fare on board the ships of the relief squadron was
excellent. Wt; were provided with (.'verything possihh; in
the way of food, and forward and aft alike lived like fiL;htiii"-
cocks.

"I'lu! jjuncli was made of nun wliich had been left in ;>
cache on LittU.'ton Ishuul by Mr. \V. 11. Beebc, jr., who com-
mandetl the (}reely relief (.'X|)etlition of 1882, and was most
cxc<;llent, and the more welcome, as although lavish in th •
supply of s^ootl thiny^s to eat, no drinkables were allowed us
by tile Hoard which supervised the littini^ out of the e.\])edi-
tion. except such as was in the hands of the surL^con for
medicinal pur|)oses only. y\t Disko, Ui)ernavik and Tcssin-
sak tlu; Danish officijils tre.; :d us with marked courtesv and
did everything- in their power to forward the object of the
expedition. At Godhavn, Disko Island, the capital of North
Greenland, a villai^e of about one hundred inhabitants, the
men were oiven a run on shore and had a dance with the
Esquimau belles. And they can dance, not even our own
American twirls, who are '.generally conceded to excell all
others in the Terp'iichorean art, beatinq- them, though it must
be admitted that the sealskin knee-breeches and boots worn
by the latter are better ada|)ted to ease and grace of move-
ment than the cumbersome skirts affected by their more
civilized sisters.

"One of the features of the expedition was getting the
Loch Garry to Upernavik so early in the season as May 29th.
She was the first iron vessel that haci ever visited that port,
and when she sailed from St. John's the prediction was gen-

TIIK liESCUK.

423

And in arriving

cral that 'that iron l)ox would n('V( r return,'
so far west as the Devil's riuiinb, under the convoy of the
Alert., where they were met by the 'I'hetis ami I'xar on their
return trip, June 30th. both vessels aeconii)lished all that was
expected ot" them. 'Iliis was a pl< asant reunion. A lon^
coiuins^' on soon after we nu:t theni, the four vessels made
fast to the ice, and visits were freely interchanged across the

1 1

./= ?^

ESQUIMAU AND KAIYAK.

floe ^nd concrratulations received upon the result of the ex-
pecllilon. It presented a very animated scene as the ships
steamed up to the ice, three or four men hanq-ini:' under the
bow until the prows struck the ice, when they immediately
dropped down. An ice anchor, ice auqer and hawser were
dropped over to them and in the twinkling of an eye wc were
fast. So much for the Greely relief expedition of 1884 We

Mlif

I' I,

;«'

'. '. ^l

■''i

j, I

'ilij!:

'.< •' ■»

424

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

have been most handsomely received and commended for
what it was ma'le possible to accomplish by the spUndid
manner in which the ships were fitted out under the direciion
of the Honorable Secretary of the Navy, and, with a secret
satisfaction in having been instrumental in the work of re-
lieving- Greely's starving party, we have no favors to ask, no
complaints to make ; and while we would gladly, under simi-
lar circuiiistances and the same leadership, undertake another
trip to the Arctic, none are ambitious to attempt an original
exploration in that quarter, and all are willing to postpone the
organization of the next naval Arctic expedition until the
time proposed by Secretary Chandler in his reply to an ad-
dress delivered by the latter at the meeting of welcome in
Portsmouth, N. H., in which he advocated further advances
toward the North Pole.

if ! i ? r Ik

CHAPTER XXVII.

A HORKIHLK DISCOVERY.

Cannibalism in its Worst Form — Private Henry Shot from Ikhind and his Flesh Eaten—
Lieutenant Greely on the Cause of the Execution — Henry Accused of havinj; Stolen
Rations — Sergeant Elison on ids Death-bed declares the Shooting of Henry Unjustifiable
— \Vl\o is to Wame for the Sufferings of (lieely's Men ? — The Relief Squadron Arrives at
Portsmouth Harbor— Naval Welcomes for the Thetis. Hear, and Alert — Reception in the
Town— Reunions of the Survivors and their Relatives— Mrs. Greely Arrives — A Thrill-
ing Reunion.

When the vessels of the Greely relief expedition reached
St. John's, the world was told that only six members of the
Greely colony were living. One had been drowned, one had
died on the way home, and seventeen, it was said, had perished
by starvation. This was a shocking story, but soon a much
more terrible one was to be told. When their food gave out
the unfortunate members of the colony, starving in theT tent
on the bleak shore of Smith's Sound, were led by horrible
necessity to become cannibals ! The complete history of their
experience during that terrible winter has afterwards been
told by one or the other of the survivors, and makes one of
the most dreadful and repulsive chapters of the annals of
Arctic exploration. Greely and his surviving companions
were forced to choose between death and this way of pre-
serving life, and they have chosen the latter. From July,
1882, to August, 1883, not less than 50,000 rations were taken
in the steamers Neptune, Yantic, and Proteus up to or be-
yond Littleton Island, and of tiiat number only about 1,000
were left in that vicinity, the remainder being returned to the
United States or sunk with the Proteus. Two costly expe-
ditions had taken those provisions to Smith's Sound, but
Greely and his men gained practically no benefit from them.
Greely's instructions and the plain teachings of common
sense were disregarcied. He foresaw that he might be com-
pelled to retreat down the west shore of Smith's Sound; he
could establish provision depots along the upper part of the

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426

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

line, but those below must be established by the relief parties.
In his instructions he pointed out the spots on the west side.
where food should be placed, and then directed that a colony
should be established on the other shore. He even foresaw
that he might reach Cape Sabine and then be unable to <>,;[
across ; therefore, he directed tiiat the relief colony should
not only strive to find him by telescope but should also s nj
sledge parties f^ the west side, to rescue him. His insuuc-
tions were not heeded, and the terrible sufferinqrs, the death,
and the cannibalism of (freely and his men resulted from this
nc<:!^lect.

It will be remembered that in Commander Schley's first
despatch to Secretary Chandler announcing the finding- of tlie
Greely party he said :

•' 1 would urgently suggest that the bodies now on hoard
be placed in metallic cases here for safer and better trans-
portation in a seaway. This appears to me imperative."

As Mr. Chandler was in West Point, the despatch was
answered by Rear-Admiral Nichols, Acting-Secretary of the
Navy. He said :

"Use your own discretion about care and transportation of
bodies."

Secretary Chandler afterward telegraphed :

" Prepare thera according to your judgment and bring them
home."

It took some days to prepare the iron caskets, which were
all bolted and riveted. It was remarked at the time by ex-
perienced officers that this would hardly have been necessary
for the preservation of the frozen bodies. They could safely
have been brought on, without any delay, in wooden coffins.
The design was obviously to prevent all possibility of friends
of the deceased being given an opportunity to look at their
remains for the purpose of identification or otherwise, kven
the sailors on the relief ships, with the exception of a lew
men who assisted in removing the; bodies, were not alhnved
to see them. The lips of the officers were sealed. Wlua
Commander Schley met Secretary Chandler and General
Hazen at Portsmouth, August 2d, on the arrival of the ships
from St. John's, he was very much agitated, and cailcti the
gentlemen into the cabin of the vessel, where he comnuiiii-
cated to them those terrible facts.

The sufferings and privations of the men in their canvas

A HORRIBLE DISCOVERY.

427

hut durinc^ the long, bitter winter of 1884 have not half been
told. It has been published that after the game gave out
early in February they lived principally on sealskins, lichens,
and shrimps. As a matter of fact, they were kept alive on
human flesh. When the rescuing party discovered the half-
starved survivors their first duty was to look to the two men
who were insensible from cold and privation, even to the
point of death. One of them, a German, by the name of
Ser(,^eant Hlison, was wild in his delirium.

" Oh," he shrieked, as the sailors took hold of him to lift
him tenderly, "don't let them shoot me as they did poor
Henry. Must I be killed and eaten as Henry was? Don't
let them do il. Don't! Don't!"

KILMNG SKAI.S.

The sailors were horrified, but at once reported the man's
words to Commander Schley. After a brief investigation he
felt satisfied that the poor fellow was speaking the; truth, and
that some of the men who perished had been stripped of their
flesh to keep their surviving comrades alive. Mr. Schley
proposed to make thorough work of it. When the horrible
reality was brought out before an investiL^atinLT committee he
did not propose to hav<; it rest solely on his oral testimony.
He instructed two or three gentlemen, among whom was Dr.
Ames, the surgeon of the Bear, to make a careful examina-
tion, and put their conclusions in writing. This was done,

I <^M

428

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

i 4

,?" ' (

, ■

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and thi^ reports arc now in the hands of the Navy l)(j);\rt-
ment. Lieutenant Greely was decidedly averse to havinjr
the bodies of the buried dead disturbed. He thoui^ht it wise,
as they had been buried so long, to let them remain in ih(Mr
Arctic graves. Commander Schley did not agree* with lijm.
The bodies were dug from their graves in the little hill just
back of the permanent camp establishes! in October, 1883.
Most of the blankets contained nothing but heaps of white
bones, many of them p.v:ked clean. The remains could be'
identified only by the marks on the blankets. By inciniries
Ct)inmander Schley tli -^over- d that many of the seventeen
men who art; saitl to have perished from starvation had h(;en
eaten by their famishing comrades. It was the one last re-
sort. Provided supplies had not arrived, deadi start;d the
hungry and crazed mtn in the face, but there was hope if life
would hold out for even a few weeks. It is reported that the
only men who escaped the knife were three or four who died
of scurvy.

Charles B. Henry's death was particularly tragic. He was
a young German, his real name being Charles Henry bach,
without any relatives in this country, and joined Company H,
Fifth Cavalry, in Cincinnati. His friends tried to dissuade
him from going with the expedition, but his spirit of adven-
ture was aroused by tales of Arctic exploits, and he deter-
mined to go. Driven to despair by his frightful hunocr,
Henry saw an opportunity to steal a little more than his share
of rations, and he made the attempt. He was found out and
shot for his crime. In the published official report the death
of this man is set down as having occurred on June 6th,
When the body was found his hands and face, thciiiirh
shrunken, were intact and recognizable ; but nearly ('V(;ry-
where else the skin had been stripped from him and the llesh
picked from the bones. Kven his heart and lungs were eaten
by his comrades. One rib was found shattered by a bullet
balls anil to another small fragments of lead were attached.
A bullet hole was found in the skin. The body was in this
condition when it was interred.

In an interview Lieutenant (ireely thus spoke of tht; death
of Henry :

" The tragic end of Private Henry was first referred to, and
Lieutenant Greely admitted that the man was shot by orders
on June 6th. As early as March, before the party went into

'^.Ji

A HOKKinM'; DiSCOVKKY.

429

Its siimmor camp, it was susjK'ctcd that Henry had been
secretly possessini;;^ liimself of nnieii more than liis share of
the slender stores, and this susj)icion finally heeoininjL^r a eer-
tainty the Lieutenant had th(.' utmost difficulty in protectinjj^
the culi)rit from the natural iiuliL^nialion of his comrades.
Henry was at one time discovered intoxicated, havin^;^ broken
into the stock of liquors, and it became necessary, in ortler to
preserve the all-important discipline of the little party, to
warn him that a sunmiary military execution would follow
fiirlh<M- depredations.

" Iwents proved that this warnin^^ was of not tlu; slightest
avail. Henry, imjjc'lh^d by his bitter hunu^er, stole, amon^*^
other provisions, two pounds of bacon. The eating of this
lari;(! amount of meat made him ill and disclosed his selfish
crime to the other membcM's of th(; party. A search was at
once instituted, and it was discovered that, with othc^r articles,
Henry had stolen and secreted the sealskin boots of the hun-
ter of the expedition.

"Lieutenant Greely then^upon issu(;d written orders that
Henry be shot for disobedience, and, though the Lieutenant
was unable to leave his tent, the orders were carried into
effect. Hiree men w(*re detailed to perform the duty, and in
the rille of one of the three a blank cartridge was inserted.
Lieutenant (ireely stated that he himst:lf would hav(; shot the
man had it not been for the exhaustion which from May 24th,
the date of the beginning of the summer camp, had confined!
him to his quarters. As it was, the; Lieutenant did not wit-
ness the execution or see the. body before burial,

*' Henry was, as Lieutenant (irt^ely asserted, the only one
of the party who caused any trouble. It was understood by
his comrades that he was a deserter from the Seventh Cav-
alry, and that charges of forg(;ry aiul theft had been made
ai^ainst him some time previous to his departure on the Arctic
exp(;dition. A detailed report of Henry's execution was sent
to the Secretary of War by Lieutenant (ireely about a week
ago.

"As to the eating of human flesh, Lieutenant Greely stated,
with much feeling, that, so far as liis personal knowledge
went, no act of this sort had been committed by any one con-
nected with the party, and that, if anything of the kind oc-
curred, it was an individual act, utterly unauthorized and
heartily deprecated."

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430

ARCTIC KXri .ORATIONS.

The followintr is l.iontenant Grcdy's official report of the
oxecution of Private Henry, at Camp Clay, near Cape Sa-
bine:

*' PctRTSMOUTII, N. H., Aun^USt I 1 til, I 8.S4.

"To Adjutant-General United States Army (through Chief

Signal Otticer, United Slates Army) :

"Siu — I have the honor to report tiiat on June 6th, 18S4, at
Camj) Clay, near Cap(^ Sabine, (irinnell Land, it bcHainc
nea.'ssary for me to orch^r the military execution of PrivaK;
Charles H. I lenry, Fifth Cavalry, for continued thieving. The;
order was given in writing on my undivided responsil)ihty,
btring ileemed absolutely essential for the safety of the sur-
viving members of the expedition.

"Ten had already died of starvation and two more lay at
the point of death. The facts inducing my action were as
follows :

"Provisions had been stolen in November, 1883. and
Henry's complicity therein was more than suspected. March
24th, 1884, the party nearly perished from asphyxia. While
sev(;ral men were imconscious and efforts w(;re being nuulc
for their restoration, Private Henry stole about two pounds
of bacon from the mess ston.'s. He was not only seen by
Esquimau Jens Eilwards. but his stomach being overloaded he
threw up the undigested bacon. An open investigation was
held, and ev(.'ry member of the party d(2clared him guiky of
this and other thefts. A clamor for his life was raised, but
was repressed by me. I put him under surveillance until our
waning strength rendered his physical services indispe-nsable.
Later he was found one day intoxicated, having stolen the
liquor on hand for general issue. A second time his life was
tlemamled, but I again spared him. On June 5th, thefts of
provisions on his part having been reported to me, I had a
conversation with him, in which I appealed to his practical
.sense, pointing out that unio.i was necessary to our preserva-
tion. He promised entire reformation, but distrusting him I
issued a written order that he should be shot if detected
stealing.

*' On June 6th he not only stole part of the shrimps for our
breakfast, but visiting unauthorized our winter-camp, stole
certain sealskin reserved for food. I then ordered him shot.
On his person was found a silver phonograph, abandoned by
me at F'ort Conger and stolen by him. In his bag was found

b«.

A IIOKRIHI.K DISCOVERY.

431

t of ihd
ape Sii-

18K4.
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)nsil)ility,

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ation was
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ini^ him I
detected

)s for our
inp. stole
Ihim shot,
idoned by
/as found

a larq^e quantity of sealskin and a pair of sealskin hoots,
stolen a few days before from th(; hunter. SusjxctinL; eom-
plicily on the part of several. I ordered iiis (?x(,'ciition by three
of the most reliable men. After his death th<.' order was read
to the entire party, and was concurred in by every member
as beini^ not only just, but as essential to our safety. To
avoiil public scandal I ordered that no man should speak of
this matt(;r until an official report was made of the facts.

"1 have the honor to recpiest that a court of inf|uiry be
ordered or a court-martial convened, should the Honorable
Secretary of War deem either advisable, in this case. I have
thoujj^ht it best not to ask the written statements of the sur-
vivini^ members of the party for appendices to this report,
lest 1 mii^ht seem to be tamperini,'^ with th(Mn. I have not
asked since our rescue, Jime 22d, whether opinions concur-
ring; in my action have clian^^t:d or not, leavinc,^ su( h ques-
tions to your action, if deencd recjuislte. I necessarily reijret
that circumstances imposed such a terrible responsibility upon
mc, but I am conscious that 1 should have; failed in my duty
to the rest of my party had I not acted promptly and sum-
marily. I am respectfully yours, "A. W. CiuKii-Y,
"First Lieutenant I'ifth Cavalry, A. S. O., and

Assistant Commander of L. I*. 13. Expedition."

Ser<ife^ant EHson, like Henry, a German, who died on board
of tiie Bear of exhaustion, communicated to three; .Scan-
dinavian sailors of that ship, named Knudson, Dirkson, and
Derikson, how Henry was shot. "About forty days before
\vc were rescued," he said, " we were absolutely devoid of any
food or means of subsistence except our sealskins, our boots,
and now and then a bird, which was shot bv Hrainard or
Lon<j. Lieutenant Greely was for weeks so weak and sick
that he was unable to leave the tent. Mv arms had been
frozen, and I therefore was unable to use them, so Lieutenant
Greely, althoujrh sick himself, kindly attended to my wants,
feedinfr me like a baby. But soon he became so wt.'ak that
he had to be fed by Sercreant Brainard, and during this time
Ser<jeant Long had the sole control over the camp. Lieuten-
ant Greely always treated us kindly and with consideration.
Henry was one of the best and most reliable members of the
colony, and, as far as I know, was never reprimanded or pun-
ished for disobedience of orders, or any other misdemeanor.

ill*

-!,J

432

AiuMic i:xri.()i<ArioNs.

l,ons4 was op|uisril to 1 Iciiry Ironi llu* Ix'^inniiii;, and I mn
salislU'il thai \hr chari^cs ol laiicny against I Icnrv wrn
trutn|)<Hl lip l)y him and !'.is rlunu l'"i(>d('ri»ks. ( >n )miic '^[\\
l.i(Mit(Miant ( inM'ly signed {\\c onlciol Ihc ('xcciidon 01 I |( my,
\vh<< liad hvcw charL^cd willi slcalinn liaron. Tlic pa|)( 1 w,).,
liandcd to liini hy I .Dm.;. ('(>n»('inin«; this <hari;(>, I v,\\\ only
say, lliat durin«; the last Inrly d.iys not an oiina? of hacon ( onld
he found in th<> r.iinp. Ou the 2()lh day o\' )ni\<* 1 .iciiicn.nii
(ircH'lv was in a helpless condition, and nnai)l(' to know wliai
was iLioini; on ontsid<\ ( )n this day S(Mi^<'ant l-onj; killed
Private^ 1 lenry hy shootini; hiiM in the back, and then rt|M)H<(|
to Lieutenant (lre(dy that the e\e( ution had taken pkuc. .uM.
inq" that Henry h.id been intoxir.ited. Henry was scin hiiiir
for victuals wIum\ he was shot. Ow the same day l.on^ shot
twt) plarmii;ans, whiih fact he concealed Irom his comp.inioiis.
Henry's lioily. fi'om which flesh was cut oil, was \r\{ unlnniid
until the ilav when die rescuing ships hove in si^hi. rii(>
shoolino o\ Triv.ite 1 lenry was (MUirely u nj u si i liable, .uul no-
body is to blame for it but Serocant Lono. He and I'Kthr-
icks W(Me ih.'> only mcMubcrs of our party who could walk 011
boaril of the steam launch, the others hail to be carried ilinc
by tlie sailors."

b^lison w.is feund in a conditioti which makes his allei^a-
tit>ns, to say tlu^ least, sui;i;t'stive of inaccuracy.

In an int(M-vi(^w Lieutenant (ireely on the j^th day of Au-
gust pave the lollowiiv' semi-ollicial account of the (events of
the latter part o\ {\\c retreat southward from b'ort ConiL^^cr,
which can only be made more ex[)licit but no mori; impressive
by his t>Hicial report:

About November ist the party be<;an to be served with
one-tpiarler rations, and dt^bilitated health soon showed [hv
effect of this insullicient amount of food. The men were not
before this in as qoml condition to withstand Arctic weather
as they had been a year befor(\ About NoviMiiber 1st pro-
visions were missed from ♦^h.e stores, and it was concliKh il
that they must have been stolen. Much comi)laint was niaii(
by the men. and threats aj^ainst the thii^f were loud. Jaiuiary
24th the parly was near perishinq; from asphyxia and several
of its members were unconscious.

Private Henry during; this terrible experience was seen by
one of the Esquimaux to steal some of the bacon from the
stores. He soon afterwards was taken ill from overloacliiiL;

A IKiUKIIlMi DISCUVKKY.

433

Ills sloiiiarli ami vomih d n|) llu- l)a(nn iimli^^'^rslrd. An in-
V('sti_i;ati»)r) was had aixl I Icmy wa;; provd [Miilty not only of
this l)iil <>l several previous ihelts.

It was a lenil)l(! slate ol alliiirs. I leniy's indijMianl ( om-
s demanded his deadi. ( )ver and over at;ain lleiiiy
lised to relorin, l>nt this did not ;,lill the < lainoi lor hi!»

r;i(l«"
iile

Lieutenant (ireely reinonstrat<d with his men ami all was
(Hiifled. Takini; llenry in hand, Lienletumt ( finely repnt-
sciited to him the; enormity ol his ollen( c and pointed ont Uj
him tlu' nt'cessity lor < oneerted action in the parly il all woiiid
Ix; saved. I l('nry was then plaicd under j^Miard lor several
weeks, until the imieasin^ leehleness ol the other mendxTS
ol the party remler«Ml it ne<f;ssary lor them to avail them-
selves ol Henry's personal services. Shortly afterwards Ik;
stole li(pior from lIu! stores and Ix ( ame intoxicated. A^;ain
jiis (onirades elamored for his life, and again Lieutenant'
(Ireely restrained them.

On jmu' 5th Henry aj^ain stol(! and tarried away some of
the |)rovisions. Li(;utenant (ireely spoke lirndy to llenry
ami told him it would lie policy for him to stop. Said the
iicntenant: " I'or (iod's sake, llenry, as you seem to hav** no
moral s(Mise, reniembcr that our lives tlepend upon our hold-
iii'' t()i.reth<:r."

With great earnestness I lenry promised not to he guilty
of theft again. Li('utenan( (ir<;(!ly f(;lt that he eouhl not
trust I lenry. Aftx-r revolving in his mind their eiretimstances
the li(Mit -nant, on his own resjioniahility, issued a writt(;n or-
der, now in the posse.ssion of one of the survivors, com-
manding that I lenry be shot on sight of commis.sion of any
more thefts of food.

At this time the i)arty had h'ft, as a last resort, only pieces
of sealskin and such shrimps as they could procure. About
June 6th Henry went to the old winter (juarters at Camp
Clay, near Cape Sabine, and stoh; some of the last sealskin,
which was the only food left. He also tcwk the last jiair of
hoots in the stores. On being closely cpiestioned by Lieu-
tenant (ireely, he admitted his guilt. Lie was again ready
with promises to do better. His fate was upon him.

1 le was, in the afternoon of that day, a little distance at the
rear of the summer quarters, alone by himself. The written
order for his execution was committed to three of the party.
38

> i

■U]

I I

u •.>'

Al« riC I.MM.OKAIIONS.

TIloy wore ordered to shool liim, ciiroiintcrini^ as little daiiiyT
lh(MiiscIv(!s as possil>l(\ as llcnry w.is tlu! strorii^cst of iIk
party.

Sadly lUr dkmi dcpartrd on (Iumi torrihlf crnind. Tin ij
comra(l('s Iclt in cami) tmiUHl llicir eyes to the ocean.

In a few ininntes the bnuvc; bore to tlieir ears the sound ol
two (|niek pistol shots. Ail were silent. Slowly. ail< i a
short iiUerv.il, the men n^lurnecl. The written ord(M' was
handed to Lieutenant (Ireely, and the horrible but necessary
execution was ove/. ll(Miry was nevcM' seen a^ain by his
roinrades, and his body was understood to \)r interred at the
foot of the northwest iee lloe.

The order lor {]\r excnaition of Ibniry was that afternoon
read to the survivors, and all coneurri'd in tlnr justice and ne-
cessity o{' the act. No report of tlu; manner of his death
has ever beiMi made to Lieutenant (ireely, antl the sntvivors
tacitly ignored the terrible remembrance.

All throuL^h the retreat tlu" discipline, with the (exception ot
Henry's thefts, was well maim wed ainl all yielded implicu
ob(Hlience <*v(mi to the last dreai day on Cape Sal)in(\

A verbal report was made to (ieneral 1 la/en by Lieutenant
("ireely shortly alter tin; arrival of the relief expedition at
Portsmouth. In r(\oard to the execution of Henry ( lineral
Hazen said : " It was irjt only justifiable, but the noblest ihinijj
in the expedition."

A written report was submitted by Greely to the War De-
partment a few days as^o fully covering Henry's case, and a
court-martial has been asked for by Li(^utcMiant Greely if the
facts seem to the War ne|)artment to warrant it.

In closinj;' Lieutenant Greely said : "I n^t^ret that the re-
sponsibility of decidinj^ HcMiry's cas(' was thrust upon me, but
I feel that I should have failed in my duty to the rest of the
noble men of my command had I not acted as I did."

Whether the four bodies which were swept out to sea and
never recovered would have added further evidence to this
story of horHble cannibalism cannot be learned now. though
the papers n the possession of the Navy I)ej>artment give
all the panicu'ars as told by the survivors. At first they were
loth to tu.)k of the horrible experience they had passed
through, but after promises of absolute secrecy their ('vidcnce
was all taken in writing. Lieutenant Greely said that he
wished the men had been rescued by the army instead of the

A iiokKiuiJ'. Disi ovr.kv.

435

navy. (^^ coursr it was inipossiltic to kcc() tlv actual state
ol .iffairs from llic crew, hut al)soliitc silrtw <• was irnjioscd
ii|)()i) lluin. riu' ofdccrs vv<'r<' not allowed (o talk ol what
h.ul OK ""■<•'' '" their pn'sciuc. ()nc man who openly sjtokc
in tlic mess room alxuit the inhiiinanity of iisin^ fragments
ol luiinaii fl(;sh as hait for shrimps was severely reprimanded.
Not a word ol tin; laet.s was ^nven to anyl)f)dy nntil Comman-
der Schley made his report to Secretary Chandler.

It is more than prohahle that, wiien all tin* (htails of tlu;
story ar(; known, I )r. ( )( tave l*avy. the surgeon of the <xpe-
(lilioii, will be found lo have sharcJ the same, or a very si.ni-
lar. lale to youni; lleiiry. 'Ihe deaths of both men an- en-
tered under the same date on the ship's journal. Nothini^ is
said about I lenry's Ix-inj^ shot. There is a blank left bemath
th(* words "«ni<ler the lollovvin^ order, " and the names of the
two inen are written at tlu; bottom of the pai^e. 'I'he order,
whi( h was written on a separate pifxc of paper, had not been
(opicd in the bf)ok. Dr. I'avy's body was one of tin; four
swept away to sea. It is said tiiat most of the uK^n who went
with tlu; ex|)edili()n were und(,'r arrest ( arUer in tlu; winter
for the sanu! offence which cost poor I lenry his life.

HaviuL^ questiotu'd a few of tlu; oflR:(;rs on tlu; three relief
ships as they made; fast to their nujorinLjs at ilu; navy yard ol
New York, some of theni assert(;d flatly that tlu; bodies of
the dead sailors were not at all mutilat(;d when they w<:re
found, and scouted all id(;a of cannibalism. <^)thers admitted
that the bodies were shockinir to look ujjon, but attribute ;d it
to the storm and the ice. The eatin*^^ story they believed to
be a sailor's yarn. Tlu; remains of the m(;n w(;re wrapped
in cloths as .soon as ju)ssible after they were duL,^ up, and sonu;
of th(; party did not see th(;m at all. Commander Schley de-
diued to have anythins^^ to say about the state of the bodies
any nK)re than he gave to the public in his first official le-
spatch.

"Did you see Henry'.s body ?" he was asked.

" I did not."

"Of what did he die ? "

"Starvation or scurvy, I believe, the same as the others."

" Do you know whether he was shot ? "

"I am not prepared to answer that question," said the com-
mander, hurriedly, "and, furthermore, I positively decline to
be interviewed. When an ofificial inquiry is made into the

,}!=

I f

43^'

AKCTIC KXI'I.OUAIIONH.

«l(Mails ol \hc tri|i I sli.ill say wh.it I have In say, if aiulliiii"
;\\h\ m>l Ix'lorc" VVillmiil aiiollirr vvdid tin* «()inm,iii(!< i
liinricd lu'low.

I'lu* in«Mnl)(Ms of the cicvv were a Iitll«' nunr ( (uninniiii aiivr
l>iil «'»)nllitiinj4 in tlu-ir slalcnicnts. Ivnoiirji was !,aiil, Ikiu.
<'v< r, to conliiin some ol the iirjy stories alloal. Al !• mm ;,
<l()/('n nl tin- men .itltnillcd tli.it I Itiiry was shot lor '.i(.ilii|,r
lootl.

On the lirsl day of ,\u«;usi al noon the rrlicl" sciiiadioii w;|.,
srrw oil the haihor ol IN)i{smoiith, New I lampsliirc, \vlii(|)it
rnlcnMl at a little allcf live miiuil<'s to one, and c ainc to aixhof
at a <|ii. liter past two o'clocU. While passim; lhroii;;li ||)(.
Atl.iiitii" stpiatlroii all the men ol war cheered in a mo'.i ions.
im; stvN'. and the scene w.is olaii exhilaratim; and amm.iiiiii/
<lesi'rij)lion. Crowds ol ladies and gentlemen were on hoard
of the llaj^ship ieniK'sse*' and the Tallapoosa, and all \\(i(in
tile linest spirits. The lower hay was alive with small daft
iLjayly tlressed in tlu- hriijhtest huntiiii^, and with a l)rilliani sky,
water rivallini; the hhie Mediterranean, and a gentle hici/c,
nothiniL; was wanting to make the* scene perfect in color anil
form, an appropriate day lor llio reception ol tlu! Aiclic sur-
vivors.

As soon as the relief ships cann* to their proper anchera<rr,
tluMr commamlinL; ollicers came on hoard of the I i'nn(s.s((;,
and wore welcomed hy all with fervent i^reetin_L;s, cheers by
tlu> men, and loiul claj)pini; of hands and a llntter of liaiui-
kerchit>fs on the part of the charmiiiL; huly i^iiests. ( om.
niander \V. S. Schley, Charles S. Cotton, antl Lieutenant VV.
S. h",mor\. as they descended from the side-ladder to the
(|uartiMdecU, looUi^l like hron/.ed sailors who had cruised on
the eijualor and amon^ troi)ical islands. No one would
dream from their aspect that tlu* sun of tlu* polar rei^ion had
left its haiul upon their h(\-ilthy complexions. Their color
suLjoested the ardent rays of tlu^ fiery tropics. They wnr
evidently in excellent health, none th(' worse for their [x'ciiliar
and dangerous experience amid ber^s and ice-lloes. Shortly
after the arrival of the commandino officers the juniors came
on board, and there was a deli«>htful meeting amouLT old mess-
mates, relations, and friends. Many of the wives of the offi-
cers of the relief expedition were on board to meet their
husbands, and the reunions were very touching. Mrs. Grecly,
her brother, and brother-in-law were sent to the Thetis, the

!' 'e S

A IIOUKIIIM-: IHSCOVKRY.

437

inomfil. ;.lu* .uk Iioifd, in llic < ii|)l;iiir'. jmj;. and was tli«- Inst
(0 \v< i( nine her lnisl)an<l. .Sul>s«(|ii»ntly •'lalivr', ol llic snr
vivci'.ol the ( Ircrly cxjH'jIiiicMi vvcic pci inili'd in vi'.ii lln-ir
liicml ., I>iit j'/'ncial viiiilin^^ was (noliiliitrd. ( it n* r.il | l.i/cn,
n'MiciiCiitin;; Hk' S(m iclaiy n( War, vvlio was iniaMc lo join
(he ccivinonics, al.o i ailed on I ,iciilcnanl (inclyand snr
vjvdis and w.i:. vi.iMy a(l'(|rd hy ilu- mcctinj-, as were llic
(.(•iillciM'-a (onncclcd vvilh die si. id. She JMouidil lirr two
iilllc 'Mrls vvidi li<r (loni ( aliloi nia, l»nl sent dw t liildicn lo
ihc Ik-I'I in I'oil'anoiidi lo await, their (allMr tli'-rc. ( )iie o|
them was horn alter i.ieiitenani ( ireely'', deparMire, and lie
learned of its hirlh at. Si. jolnj';,. Willi Mrs. (Ireely were
lur Ivvo hrotlier.s, the Messrs. Nesniilh, ol .San I )iej.;o, ( "ali-
loriiia. I lu" laentenanl's lather and mollier, who reside at
Nc\vhiiry|i<>rl, were nnahle to he pre-.ciii on a((()iinl ol tlwir
advaiued a;.;e. Mrs. (ireely is a tall, slim lady, with s.id eyes
ami a thin, wan lace, which showed the anxiefy she had snf
lc;rcd. She wenl lo the adiniral's <ahin, where she tf)ok a
^jass of wine, and tried to j;(!l a little rest alter the latii'iie ol
.seven lonf^ ilays ol travellinj^r, hut she (onld not stay there
while the Heel, which l)()re her luishand and tlu; hodies of his
true companions, was coining in, so S(;cretary Chandler es-
corted her lo the deck ol the Tennessee, where she was yr'wcu
a (liair and a iield-j^Iass, and was introduced to Mrs. Scliley,
tiic wile of her hushand's n^scuer. A cahle was drawn across
the deck to keep iIk; crowd away from Mrs. (ireely, and within
there was a happy .L;ronp.

The masts of the thre(; Arctic shi|)s wf-re soon seen follow-
injj^ those of the Allianc(; in dose; order, and as the latter came
around the point on which old, dismanth^d I'Ort Constitution
stands, the ladies surroundini; Mrs. (ire(dy ^^•we way for the
si<,Mial officer, who st(;ppe(l out from under tju; awninj^^ and
siL^iudled to the Allianct; the orders Irom Admiral lane.
Then the; I'hetis came in sit^ht, and at a sii^nal from the ad-
miral all the sailors in the lied clamhered iif) the rii^r^dni^,
waved dK;ir caps, and eave a rousini^^ ch(;er, while the hand on
the Tennessee hronL,du the tears into Mrs. Greely's eyes hy
playing the old familiar air:

" Home iij^aiii, home again,
Kroin a foreign shore ;
And, oh it fills my soul with joy,
To meet luy friends once more."

4r nl ' m '■-

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438

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

The signal officer directed the Thetis to iier anchoracre.
She had scarcely dropped her anchors when the Bear Cume
slowly steaming around the corner of old Fort Constitiiii( n,
as black and solemn as a hearse in a funeral procession, and
the sailors in the rigging cheered again. Then came the
Alert, and a third cheer was heard, to which, however, there
were no responses.

The flags on all the Arctic fleet, which had been at half-
mast since the rescue at Cape Sabine, were raised to the
mast-head by signalled orders from the Secretary of the Navy,
who remarked that this was a day of joy and of welcome to
the survivors, and not of mourning for the lost. When the
Arctic fleet dropped their anchors Secretary Chand-er offered
his arm to Mrs. Greely and escorted her to the gang-plank,
followed by her brothers. They were placed in charge of
Commander Merry, of the lallapoosa, who, in his launch,
conveyed them to the Thetis. The secretary returned to his
place on the deck, and as the launch passed by on her short
voyage to the Thetis, the secretary exclaimed : *' Ladies and
gentlemen, let us give Mrs. Greely three good cheers!"
Every man aboard the Tennessee caught the word and
shouted at the top of his voic^;, while every woman waved her
handkerchief. As the little launch passed tlie other vessels
the same compliment was repeated, and pretty soon Mrs.
Greely was seen climbing up the gangway of the Thetis, and
was clasped in her husband's arms. The deck of the vessd
was cleared, and the meeting was witnessed only by her two
brothers.

In a few moments Commander Merry returned to the Ten-
nessee, closely followed by a queer-looking black war-boat,
as \Uyht as a balloon and as swift as a bird. It had an en<j;lne
in its centre. It is the same launch that broutjht Lieutenant
Greely and his surviving companions from their por.ition of
starvation in the ice at Cape Sabine. It steamed toward the
Tennessee. As it neared the vessel voices cried out:
"There's Schley'" "There's Bill Emory!" "There's
Coffin!" Mrs. Schley and her pretty daughters left their
chairs and Mrs". Coffin followed them to the admiral's cabin,
escorted by Secretary Chandler and Admiral Luce. There
was another hearty cheer as the little tug came up to the
gangway, and the three commanders of the Arctic fleet were
greeted by their old friends on board with a royal welcome.

A HORRIBLE DISCOVERY.

439

As soon as they coukl shake themselves loose Commander
Schley and Commander Coffin went to the cabin, and another
scene of joy occurred, while the band played " Home Again "
a second time.

Never before in the history of Portsmouth has there been
so grand and imposing an event as the celebration of the re-
turn of Lieutenant Greely and the survivors of his expedition,
which, under the auspices of the municipal government of
Portsmouth, took place on the 4th day of August. If throngs of
thousands of people, numerous bands of music, and boundless
enthusiasm could make a celebration a success, this was suc-
cessful. The day was perfect. On the crowded streets and
through the squares there was everywhere order and cheerful-
ness. Throngs from all sections of the country came crowding
into the city shortly after sunrise, and the thousands which were
ndcled by trains and incoming steamers were apparently lost in
the immensity of the crowd already present.

At 8.30 A. M. boats, barges and steam-launches began to
discharge heavy freights of officers and seamen from the
North Adantic Squadron and Arctic fleet along the cro\A ded
wharves. As fast as they arrived they were drawn up along
the streets adjacent to Market Square. The civic organiza-
tions and military companies arrived from various points on
early trains, having to take part in the celebration. All the
public buildings and many private ones were handsomely
and appropriately decorated, and "Welcome to Our Arctic
Heroes "was imprinted everywhere on flying bunting. At
10 o'clock the steam-tug Leyden landed the last of the sailors
from the fleet, and the naval column was formed for the
march on David and State streets, and moved to an appro-
priate place.

From an early hour in the morning crowds blocked up the
streets near where Greely was to land. The coming of the
Arctic hero was the all-absorbing object of interest. Every
steam-launch was scanned and every barge anxiously watched
for his presence. At 11.20 o'clock, amid considerable en-
thusiasm. Commander Schley, Lieutenant Emory and Com-
mander Coffin disembarked from a barge. Following them
were the other officers of the Greely relief expedition. All
were attired in neat uniforms. Then were landed the sailors
of die Thetis, Bear and Alert, wearing heavy stoga boots
with pants tucked in the tops, dark blue shirts and regulation

' !

' \yriik

■; si

^il I'l

& •

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■M

440

ARCTIC KXPLO RATIONS.

navy caps. They rolled along with a sailor gait. All wt^re
bronzed, sunburned and weather-beaten. They were entlui-
siastically greeted as they landed, and the crowd pressed for-
ward to shake their hands. Five sailors from the squatlioii
greeted their companions from the re^'.ef ships with a licarty
"messmate, welcome home," and other honest grcetinL^s.
Not a lew tears were shed at affecting meetings between old
messmates.

A roar of welcome went up when, at 1 1 o'clock, Gredy
was discovered with his comrades coming towards tlie land-
ing in the admiral's barge. Greely was clothed in while,
with a slouclied hat, and wearing spectacles. As he and his
companions alighted all crowded to welcome him. Gr(M;ly
leaned upon the arm of Lieutenant Powell, and languidly
lifted his hat. His every movement indicated weakness. 1 lis
comrades received much attention, and were objects of curious
scrutiny. All were placed in coaches and inmiediately driven
to the Rockingham House, it having been decided that they
should not appear in the procession. At the hotel crowds
gathered to catch a glimpse of them. Lieutenant Greely said
to the Associated Press representative that he felt very well
that morning, and he looked it. He expressed himself as
being much moved by the cordiality of his reception. Mrs.
Greely joined her husband at the hotel. Meanwhile the
arrangements for starting the procession were completed.

Upon two large stands in Market Square were gathered
many prominent persons and a number of ladies.

At 11.20 the procession began to move along the packed
streets. Thunderous applause greeted the sailors of the re-
lief squadron as they moved along, the crew of the Thetis
leading, with that of the Bear and then the men from the
Alert. The ovation continued through the entire route of the
procession.

Commander Schley, Lieutenant Emory and Commander
Coffin were received with tremendous applause as they passed
along in an open carriage. They smilingly acknowledged
the tribute of the crowd by lifting their hats. After diem
rode the other officerrs of the relief squadron, and they, too,
received a h arty ovation. After them rode in an open
carriage Secretary Chandler, General Hazen, Commodore
Wells and Acting Admiral Luce. These gentlemen also
received a tribute of applause. The marching of the long

'■ !

A HORRIBLE DISCOVERY.

441

procession was vei*)' fine, and the manoeuvres of the battalion
of marines from the squadron ven^ brilhant. As the head
of tlie procession neared the Rockinj^ham House, wli(;r(,' Lieu-
tenant Greely and the survivors of tiie party were \vaitiuL( to
review the procession, the pressure of the crowd became so
great that the advance of the column was delayed sev(.ral
minutes.

Lieutenant Greely and his comrades were seated upon a
balcony, and when the head of the procession appeared cheer
after cheer greeted him. The men in the i)rocession joined.
As the crews of the Thetis, liearand Alert passed, Lieutenant
Greely bowed very low and seemed to look his L^ratitude to
tho men who had so recently rescued him from an Arctic grave.
The scene was affecting, and much emotion seemed to per-
vade the entire throng, and many brushed tears from their
eyes. The relief crews respectfully raised their caps. Lieu-
tenant Greely was kept busy bowing his acknowledgments as
the long procession passed. Commanders Schley and Coffui
and Lieutenant Emory raised their hats as they passed the
hero. After the procession had passed, Lieutenant Greely
and his party entered the hotel and remained a short time.
They were then driven to the grand stand, where ihey again
reviewed the procession and received the plaudits of the
multitude.

Among the prominent men on the stand were Secretary
Chandler, General Hazen, Governor Hale, Mayor Lathrop,
of Dover; the Mayor of Newuuryport, Mayor Puinam, of
Manchester; Samuel J. Randall; Congressman Robinson, of
New York ; officers of the relief expedition and North At-
lantic Squadron, and members of the city governments of
many New England cities. Shortly after 2 o'clock the invited
guests proceeded to the Rockingham House, where they were
entertained at dinner by the city of Portsmoutn.

The meeting of citizens at Music Hall in the evening, to
extend the official v/elcome of the city of Portsmouth to Lieu-
tenant Greely and the remainder of his crew, was largely
attended, and was characterized by unbounded enthusiasm.
In the auditorium there was a representation cf Portsmouth's
foremost citizens, while upon the stage sat many distinguished
gentlemen. Among those on the stage were the officers of
the North Atlantic Squadron and Arctic relief fleet. In the
front seats in the orchestra sat the crews of the Thetis, Bear

I!::!

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442

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

and Alert. These sturdy sailors were enthusiastically rcrc-ivcd
by the audience wiien they enteretl, as were; their olfici-rs
when tlu;y sliortly afterwards took seats on the sta<;c. Aiiioncr
others on tin; sta^e were W, \i. Chandler, Secretary of the
Navy; (ieneral Hazcn, Chic-f Signal Officer ; Admiral Luce,
Commodore Welles, General H. 1\ Butler, ex-Speaker Ran-
dall, Congressman Robinson, of New York: Governor Hale,
of New Hampshire ; Senator Hale, of Maine, and nianv
others.

Remarks were made by Rev. W. A. McGinley, Rev. II. h".
Movey, ex-Speaker Randall, Commander .Schley, Lieutenant
Emory and others. The meeting closed with prayer by
Rev. J. A Gross.

In the presence of a large concourse, and with the attend-
ance of Secretary of War Lincoln, Lieutenant-General F. H.
Sheridan, Commander-in-Chief; Major-Gene ral W. S. Man-
cock, Commanding the Division of the Atlantic; Commodort;
Fillebrown, United States Navy, and many other distinguislicd
officers of both services, the remains of Lieutenant Grecly's
companions, who died in the Arctic regions, received on
August 8th at New York impressive melancholy honors due
to military merit.

The foo^y weather which had detained the returninor relief
ships near Wood's Holl, Rhode Island, having cleared off, the
vessels were able to creep up the coast so as to be within
sight of Sandy Hook early on the 7th.

Early in the day the batteries of the Fourth and Fifth
United States artillery, to the number of about four hundred
men, were drawn up in line at half-past nine o'clock on the
governmf.nt wharf on Governor's Island, facing south, the
band on the left of the line, near the point of disembarkation.
The troops were commanded by Major R. J. Jackson. Drums
were muffled, the officers and men wore the regulation in-
signia of mourning, and flags drooped at half-mast on the
government ships and buildings and on American vessels in
the harbor. It was remarkable that, with the exception of a
large French steamer lying at anchor in front of the Battery,
few of the foreign ships in sight showed any half-mast signals
of mourning.

After the men had been under arms some t.tiu- General
Hancock, accompanied by his staff, went to tuv. i.inding, wi;- i*e
he r.'.ceived Secretary of War Lincoln ?,nd Lieuisnaiit-Gcn

i^'t.

A IloUKini.K I)rsc:()VKKY.

44^

cral Sheridan, who arrivt^l on the island at lialf-past ten
o'clock. They had Ixhmi (escorted from thv. baltcry by Colo-
nel -' !odj4CS, Captain l^ond and Lieiit(;nanl Riley, who were
detailed lor that duty l)y (ieneral I Iriucock. 'Vhv secr(;tary
and his party crossed over to the islai d on the United Stat(;s
steam-launch Ordnance, (jeneral Sheridan wore the unilbrin
of his rank. Among the members of his j)ersonal staff were
Colonel M. V. Sheridan (the i^eneral's brother), Colonel
(ireoory and Coloncd Volckman. Accompanying Major-
Ccneral Hancock were Captain John .S. Wharton, Nint;teenth
Infantry; Captain G. S. L. Warcl, 'I'wenty-second bifantry,
and First Lieutenant Tiomas 1 1. P)arber, all belon_(,nn_£( to his
personal staff. Of the division staff thert; were with the g-en-
eral Lieutenant-Colonel William 1). Whipple, Assistant Adju-
tant-General ; Lieutenant-Coh^nel RoL^er Jones, Assistant In-
spector-General ; Colonel 11. 1'". Clarke, Assistant Commis-
sary-(ieneral ; Colonel Charles Sutherland, Medical Director;
Colonel Daniel McClure, Assistant l'uymast(;r-General and
Colonel A. J. Perry, Assistant Ouartermaster-Cieneral.

When Secretary Lincoln ami ( ieneral Sheridan stepped
ashore they were rjreeteci by General Hancock, who offered
them the salutes due to their resp(;ctive ranks. Both the
Secretary and Lieutenant-(u'n(;ral d(M'linf:d these- honors.

Precisely at ten minutes to el(!Vt;n o'clock the black hulls
of the three Arctic ships were seen from Fort Columbus, be-
tween Governor's Island and the cpiarantinc station. They
approached with a slow, solemn motion, Commander Schley's
vessel, the Thetis, leading the van. The P'car, with Lieu-
tenant Flmory in charge, came next, and the Alert, under
Lieutenant Coffin, broujj^ht up the rear. Slowly and majest-
ically they steamed past F^ort Columbus, and then, heading
down the bay, stopped in mid channel between Bedloe's
Island and the fort, their prows turned toward the latter,
where anchors were let iro and steam blown off.

The ships had at length arrived at their destination and
broui:;ht their adventurous voyage to a close in tlu; same porr
from which they had gone forth to battle with the rigors of
the frozen North. As soon as they got into line with Fort
Columbus its guns thundered a national salute in honor of
the returned adventurers and of the brave men who laid
down their lives without a murmur at ih': call of duty.

No sooner had the three black hull !*ecn recognized than

!• ill

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444

ARCTK" EXPLORATIONS

I m

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'/'I

lit

lite if

hi!

General Hancock sent off his aide-de-ca p, Lieutenant
Thomas H. Barber, in a steam-launch to grec. the returned
explorers in his name, and to offer such assistance as tliey
might need. The aide-de-camp had orders to remain with
Commander Schley and to accompany the bodies ashon?.
At the same time the steamtug Catalpa shot out into mid-
stream from the direction of the Brooklyn bridge. She was
closely followed by Commodore Fillebrown's barge and the
steam-launches Despatch, Minnesota and Ordnance. These
craft waited for the bodies to be placed on the Catalpa, in
order to form her escort to the landing-place at Governor's
Island.

The hulls of the three relief ships showed but little signs of
severe usage in the Arctic Ocean, and were it not for the
presence of some strange-looking dogs and sledges on board
the Bear it would never be suspected that she had returned
from a voyage to frozen seas.

When the echo of the saluting guns had died away, there
was an interval of more than an hour before the bodies were
removed to the Catalpa. As soon as this was effected minute
guns were discliarged until after the caskets had been deposited
in the hospital ward. During the wait the troops were allowed
to march back to quarters, where rations were served. The
first minute eun was the sitjual for their reassembling and
again forming on the landing. The mounted men of Light
Battery B were already formed on horseback, with gun
caissons, awaiting but the signal to move by the flank of the
escort, carrying the remains to their temporary resting-place.

From nine o'clock in the mornino: the little steamer Thomas
Riley kept bringing over large numbers of people to the
island. Some of them were connections of the deceased,
others belonged to the military or civil service and still more
were sightseers. Tlie latter explored the island thoroughly.
They swarmed on the grassy glacis of the fort, perclu^d upon
the parapets and crowded the covered way. No part of the
fortifications was sacred to the visitors. They crowded to
suffocation the hospital ward the moment the bodies were
deposited there.

It was twenty minutes to one o'clock before the Catalpa
and her escort steamed up to the dock where the troops were
drawn up. As soon as the tug was made fast Commander
Schley, Commander Coffin, Lieutenant .Sebree, Li( utenant

A HORR1J5LE DISCOVERY.

445

Crosby and other officers of the relief ships stepped on shore.
They were at once introduced by Lieutenant Barber to Gen-
eral Hancocls:, who received them in the most cordial manner.
He immediately presented them to Secretary Lincoln and to
General Sheridan, who also received them very warmly. At
that moment Commodore Fillebrown disembarked from his^
barp^e.

A detail of eight men and a sergeant was told off to carry
the caskets from the tug, along the front of the escort, to the
caissons. Each casket was constructed of boiler iron, firmly
riveted and hermetically sealed. They were all painted black,
having a silver plate on the lid, with an inscription showing
the age of each man and the date of his death. The caskets
were covered with the American ensign ; the national shield
on that of Lieutenant Lockwood only. As each casket was
borne on a stretcher along the front of the escort the troops
presented arms, the officers saluted, colors were drooped and
the band played a dirge. An affecting scene was witnessed
while die body of Lieutenant Fred Kislingbury was passing.
His brothers, John G. and William H., and his son, Walter
Kislingbury, a lad of fifteen years, wept bitterly. The heart
of General Hancock was moved at the sight. He took the
orphan's hand and spoke encouragingly to the boy.

At five minutes after one o'clock the procession took up its
line of march in the following order :

Line of eleven gun caissons, each one drawn by two horses,
each caisson carrying one of the bodies. The escort, under
command of Major Jackson, with arms reversed, officers and
men wearing crape on the left arms and on the sword hilts,
marching in slow time, the band playing the dead march.
The Secretary of War, Generals Sheridan and Hancock, the
staffs of these two officers, several other distinguished gen-
erals and the friends and relatives of the deceased.

Upon arriving at the hospital the caskets were at once un-
strapped from the caissons, carried into the mourning ward
that had been prepared for them, and there deposited upon
the tresdes, where they were to rest until sent to their final
destinations. Guards of honor were stationed in the ward, the
rest of the troops silently retired to their quarters, the curiosity
seekers began to thin out, and at three o'clock the island was
deserted by its visitors, and the brave dead were left in the
sentinel's care to sleep on in their glory.

' !

fill!':

CHAPTER XXVIII.

TERRIBLE STORY OF CANNIBALISM.

How the Bodies of the Victims were interred — Proofs of Cannibalism — The Flesh of
Lieutenant Kislingbury's Body cut off with Knives — The Carte-de-visite of a Surgeon—
The (Jreely Survivors — Their Physical Condition when Rescued — Surgeon CJrecii's Re.
port — What Lieutenant Greely says concerning Cannil)alism —Lieutenant Greely on Dis-
sensions in the Camp — Dr. Pavy takes his own Life — The Body washed away — A Story
full of Horror — The first Taste of Human Flesh — Private Henry Welcome Food.

Thk question whether the starving men of the Greely Ex-
pedition resorted to cannibaHsm to stay the gnawing pangs
of hunger and prolong their lives has at last been answered.
The body of Lieutenant Kislingbury was exhumed on the
1 4th day of August at Rochester, N. Y,, and it was found that
the flesh had been cut from the body, and that only the skele-
ton remained.

The result of the examination is given in the following af-
fidavit, whicli was made immediately upon the return of the
party to the city :

" From the upper portion of the sternum and clavicle to the
lower border of the fifth rib on the left side the skin and mus-
cles had all been removed down to the ribs on the right side,
The skin and muscles down to the lower border of the last
rib were gone. There were two openings between the fourth
and fifth intercostal spaces into the thoracic cavity. The skin
and muscles on the anterior portion of the abdomen were
intact to the crest of the iliurn or pelvic bones ; muscles and
skin of anterior and posterior of the thighs were entirely re-
moved except the skin on the anterior portion of the knee
joints ; muscles and skin of left leg removed to within three
inches of ankle joint ; on right leg skin and muscles removed
to within five incKes o^ mkle joint.

" Both feet were intac and the toes all present. There was
no vestige of integument or muscles on either arm, including
the muscles of the shoulder-blades to wrist joints, except on
(446)

TERRIBLE STORY OF CANNIBALISM.

447

the right forearm, the interosseous membrane remaining.
Flesh and muscles on both liands intact.

"Tiie examination of the posterior portion of tlic body
showed that the skin and muscles of the back from the sev-
enth cervical vertebra had been dissected or cut completely
away down to the bones, with the exception of pieces of skin
from two to three inches square on each side of the upper
portion of the sacrum. The pelvic bones were completely
denuded. All the extremities were attached to the body by
Ijaaments only. No fractures of tin; body were discovered.
We found all the organs of the thoMs. and abdomen present.
There was evidence of recent inflammati(M) of the stomach
and bowels. The large intestines wen* disten^led with hard-
ened lumps of fecal matter, in which there was haii, moss or
woody fibre.

"In our opinion the flesh removed was cut away with some
sharp instrument. That remaining on the feet, hands and
face showed no signs of decomposition.

[Signed] " Charlp:s Buckley, M. D.

" F. A. Mandkville, M. D.

"Subscribed and sworn to before me this 14th day of Au-
gust, 1884. "Edward Angevine,

" Commissioner of Deeds."

•I

I I

The work of opening the heavy iron receptacle was found
to be comparatively easy, all there was to do being to un-
screw the fifty-two iron bolts which held down the lid. The
noiseless ease with which the latter was pried from its bed
showed that there was an absence of gas, and it was feared
that there might be no body in the casket at all. Between the
cover and the contents of the coffin there was some rubber
packing saturated with white lead, and white lead also sur-
rounded the bolts and joints. Feeling his way into the mass
of snowy cotton waste which filled the coffin to the top, Mr.
Jeffries soon exclaimed : " He is there." A strong odor of
alcohol, but no very pronounced suggestion of decay, eman,
ated from the casket. Dr. Buckley uncovered the lower por-
tion of the coffin's tenant, and then it appeared as if one of
the legs — the right one — was missing, but when the waste
was all removed it became apparent that the limb was tied
under the left one.

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448

ARCTIC KXFLORATIONS.

The casket was next placed upon the floor, and the un-
shrouded form taken from it and placed upon the table. On
the bottom of the coffin were noticed two large spots of
blood, but tliey were pronounced of common occurrence at
burials. Tiie sheet was taken away and the tarred rope
which entwined the blanket cut, and the work of taking off
this last covering began. Slowly antl reverentially the blanket
was removed, and then there was a suppressed cry of horror
upon the lips of those present. The half-body, half-skeleton
remains lay outstretched in all their ghastly terror. The
blackened, fleshless face, bearing marks of Arctic toil, had no
resemblance to the dead man. The head was covered with
long, matted, dark-brown hair and a lighter-colored mous-
tache cleaved to the upper lip, while a wool-like beard of
the same color surrounded the lower portion of the coun-
tenance. The skin was dried to the skull. The sightless
sockets, the half-opened mouth, gave the dead man a look of
mute, appealing agony.

" That tells the whole story," moaned one of the brothers,
Sfazine with a strangle fascination on the awful scene.

The skeleton was slirunken. There was little, if any, flesh
on the arms and legs^ and the body from the throat down was
denuded of its skin. The feet were incased in bluish woollen
socks and were emaciated, but almost intact. Upon the right
side of the breast, between the ribs, appeared two gaping
wounds, which did not fail to inspire those present with a sus-
picion that poor Kislingbury might have been foully dealt
with. Th.e doctors examined the mouth, and John Kisling-
bury, watching their movements, soon directed the attention
of his brother to evidence which established the identity of
the body, saying : "That is he, Frank ; see, his tooth is gone!"
A plate containing several false teeth was in the mouth. Fur-
ther proof was furnished by marks on the right toe, which had
been injured, while the lieutenant was guarding rebel prison-
ers at Elmira, by a horse stepping upon his foot. For some
time he expected he would have to have the toe amputated,
but it finally was saved. When the doctors touched the
moustache of the dead man it came off partially. The nose
was found, as described by officers of the relief expedition,
partly missing. When the remains were turned over on one
side, the skinless back and bare shoulder blades presented
the same sickening spectacle as the front.

ill;

i.t

TEKKlIil.E STOKV OF CANNIBALISM.

449

The physicians did not find any evidence of violence, and
placed the body in its original position. Tiien the brothers
were informed that the stomacli and other internal organs
were all present, and they were asked whether they desired
the same to be opened in order to complete the examination
and (establish the cause of death. They answered that nothing
should be left undone whicli could furnish proof upon that
point. It was found that the int(;stines adhered to tlu* sides
of the abdomen, proving that there had been recent inllam-
mation of the stomach and bowels. From the large intestine
a ball of dark hair-like substance was taken, showing that the
last thing eaten by deceased in his starving conclitioti was
probably portions of clodiing or sealskin strips. As it had
bcMii reported by the survivors that Li(!utenant Kislingbury
had last fall sustained a rupture by falling off an iceberg, an
examination was made of the lower portion of the bod)', but
no evidence wha*:ever was foimd that anythiiiL:' of the kind
had occurred. No internal evidence of any wounds was
found, and the conclusion reached was that the openings be-
tween the ribs on the right side of the breast were caused by
the knives of those who stripped the body of its flesh and
skin to still the terrible cravings of long-ai/^ravated huni:er.
Li utenant Kislingbury had died of starvation and disease, and
his ( omrades had eat(.'n his body, like those of others who had
dieii before and after him. The examination was concluded
at 8.45, and the remains were again placed in the casket and
reinturred. Subsequently the physicians in attendance made
and subscribed to the above sworn statement in accordance
with the facts.

When the body of Private William \^niistler, of the Greely
Arctic Expedition, was interred at the Rockfield Cemetery,
two miles east of Delhi, Ind., there was no suspicion of canni-
balism. The body was consigned to the grave with due
honor, and with the pomp of military display. The relatives
of young Whistler are simple country folk, and have litde ac-
cess to the daily newspapers. Christian WhisUer, the father
of the dead explorer, gave no heed to the printed tales of
cannibalism, but the aged William W^histler, the grandfather
of the deceased man, as soon as he read the story resolved
to have the body exhumed and to see for himself what there
might be in the rumors. It was decided by him to exhume
the body on Sunday, but arrangements to that effect could
29

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TEST TARGET (MT-3)

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Hiotographic

Sciences
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23 WeST MAIN STREET

WEBSTER, N.Y. MSIO

(716) •73-4S03

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450

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

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not be completed. It was the intention of the grandfather to
have the exhumation strictly quiet, and, as the ne\vspa|)(rs
had said that the body would be disinterred on Sunday, he
postponed it untli diis morning.

So quietly was the affair conducted that farmers within a
half-mile knew nothing of it. Six men opened the grav(; at
6.20 A. M., and at 7.15 the casket was carried from the grave
to beneath the shade of a tree in the cemetery. The hody
lay in what is known as the Whistler Graveyard. This ceme-
tery is a veritable country churchyard. There are but twelve
graves in it. Fourteen persons besides the laborers who
opened the grave were present. They were Dr. Charles K
Angell, Dr. E. W. H. Beck, VV. F. Sharer, W. Smith, I). A.
Fassett, L. G. Beck, Mr. and Mrs. Jeffjrson Deil, William
Whistler and wife, Christian Whistler, and representatives of
the press.

It took only ten minutes to loosen the fifty-two bolts and
raise the lid of the casket. The body was wrapped in cotton
waste, around which was a hemp cord. Displacing these, a
blanket was found next to the body. When this blanket was
removed the ghastly sight of a mere skeleton was seen, there
was nothing of the body left, save the head and trunk. All
the flesh had been cut from the limbs. The arms, legs, and
shoulders were bare bones.

Strips of flesh had also been taken from the breast. The
left foot, which had been frozen, was not touched, and the left
hand was unharmed. The face was sunken, but not unlike
the ordinary corpse, and the red hair and short beard made
it easy for Whistler's friends to identify him. It was particu-
larly noticeable that the bones were picked entirely clean;
not a vestige of flesh is left on them. The back has nothinj;
on it. In fact, the only things left of the man are his head,
breast, intestines, and the left hand and left foot.

The appearance would show that an expert had done the
cutting of the flesh. A thorough examination by the physi-
cians showed that the stomach was entirely empty. The
head and neck were unharmed by blows. The head was in-
cased in a knitted cape, over which was a sealskin. The
skeleton hands wore mits — a mitten covering half the hand
When the coffin was opened there was a strong odor of alco-
hol, but no further very bad stench.

The physiciansi made no report, and will not unless asked

TERRIBLE STORY OF CANNIRAI.ISM.

451

hv the government officials. They say that they can report
nierely a fleshless man picked as clean as if his bones were
to be varnished. The aged grandparents took a look at the
body for a minute only before it was again fastened in the
casket. They said that the face was easily recognizable, and
as to the horrible condition of the body they had but little to

say.

" Poor boy," said the old lady, " he was a good lad, but it is
better that he has been eaten by his comrades tlian that he
should have eaten of them."

Whisder died on May 24th. He was twenty-seven years
of age.

The bodies of Privates Charles B. Henry and Roderick
Schneider were conveyed from Governor's Island and buried
in Cypress Hills Cemetery with appropriate hont . s. The
services, which were held in the chapel on the island, were
conducted by Post-Chaplain E. H. C. Goodwin, and attended
by General Hancock, his staff, and the companions-in-arms
of the deceased. On the coffins Union Jacks were folded,
and when the services were over, the bodies were placed
upon caissons tmd escorted to the steamboat Chester A.
Arthur, on which they were taken to Brooklyn. General
Hancock and staff followed in steam-launches, and the sol-
diers were transported on a barge.

The cortege landed at the foot of Atlantic street. A large
crowd awaited its arrival for over two hours.

The bodies were removed by eight soldiers, and the escort
set out for the cemetery in the following order:

Brooklyn Police Squad ; Mounted Battery F, Fifth Artillery;
Band of the Fifth Regiment of Artillery; four Foot Bat-
teries; carriage containing the Rev. Mr. Goodwin and Medi-
cal Director Janeway ; the caskets containing the bodies of
Privates Schneider and Henry, on artillery caissons, flanked
by pall-bearers on foot ; carriages containing Generals Han-
cock and Ferry, Adjutant-General Whipple, and staff and
regimental field officers.

The route of procession was lined with people, and the
flags were displayed at half-mast on the City Hall, Municipal
Building, Court House and many private buildings.

On reaching Cypress Hills the body of Private Henry was
borne to a grave in the soldiers' plot. The remains of Pri-
vate Schneider were placed in the receiving vault, where they

•152

Ai« ii< ;\ri »>K \ut»Ns.

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V. »i

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rcinaiiu'il until (he arrival ol l»is r«'lativ<-s iuwu (lrnnan\. |t
is alloi^tnl tlial hnih lnulii-s wck' citcn l>y ll\«' siirvivm,, Inn
tlu' |»rot»l lonlil m»l Ix* cstaltlislu'il lur ilic aluivt* irasttn..

1 1\<" KMuains ol Scii^rant William II. Cross, ol ll\c (,i((ly
l'A|u'*litiiM), Nvcrr n>nv<\('il to Washiiii^Mon, I >. I'., wIkk- iI„,
inttMiiUMU took pKuc. A tt>mn\iUrf »om|t«»:ir»i ol \\ ijli.nii |.
l'*<M*v:uson. William (\ I'rakt", John jost, |«>lm Minni-,. .iii<| ,\
Lanlmaii. irprcsiniinv; I'lanUlin l,o»liM\ No. :. I\ni;;lit', (,|
IVthi.is. rctrivt'il [\\r rcm.iins at tlu* .\<lams I'Aprc ,. d. pni,
Si\th street .mil \'ii\;ini.i avcmir. St>utlnvcst, and <M(iiit,|
tiu'm to Odvl I'rllows' Hall. Navy N'aul. \'\\r hotly was ( n
east>il in .1 strong Mark taskcl, n\aJ<' «»l ln>il<'r iron, srnirrjv
rivett'il, in whirh it was plarcd al (lovcrnoi's Island. This
easket, with iis fonicnts. w<'i>;hr(l seven hmulr< d puimds.
The lid was boltevi on with lilty six serew holts, whi.h Udiilij
liave iliseonra!_;t il anv attempts to open the casket. e\en it ii
were vieemeil ailvisahle to open it. The l\nii;hls ol TnUims
eomniitlee reii'i\<'d a tileiMam Irom the I'osi (Jn.irle! 'na-tt r
at ( lovernor's Island telling; them not to <>pcn tin- (askel iin
der an\' i-irenmst.\ni'es. It was inlende«l {o \\.\\r evpo-.i'd the
remains to view, hnt it is snpp«>s<'d that they were noi in
i^ood lontlition to be e\pose<l. The t'on»mitt«'e ol l\ni'.;lii\
ol" Pythias si-rved .is .v i^n.ird ol honor. An American lli-
partially covered the lower p.u t ol the c.iskel. Ne.ir llic
head was a silver \Amv inscribed .is loUows :

W'll I I AM II. C'koss,

Scrs;(\mt I'nited States Army.

Dieil January iSth. 1884.

Ai^eil thirty-nine years.

;. 'y

"It has always been published." said one of the conunittcc,
"that he died on the ist ol' jamiafy ; but this inscription is
correct. \\c dieil on the iStli. lit; was the first man io siu-
cnmb to the hanlships ot the e.xjx'ilition."

riie remains* ot" Seroeant Joseph I'^lison were broiiL,^lu to
Pottsville, Pa., for interment. A deputation ot" the Ciowrii
Post, tOi^ether with a large concourse of people, were at iht*
ilepot to receive theni. The remains were enclosed in an
iron casket, hea%'ily riveted, and could not be opened, so that
a last inspection of the familiar features of the martyr of the
ice was prohibited. The remains were immediately taken to

IKKKMir,!'. Sln|;v (•!• rANNIIIAI.lsM.

453

man lu siic-

llic i(".itl«'nrf' of Alois lli'.nn. a hrollur of llw <l«( ca-.f-d, a(
\'()ik\ill<'. uluTr a « alalal(|iir had Imtm i'Vit l«<l, .nid wluTr
all lli.il i'. iiuMlal ol (he \oiiii;; lino laid in sl.il*-. jMianNd I»y
II. ml ol iKtiior Iroin dir I'nst. \\\r liincial |no((ssion was

•I r

|(tri U'

I in llx' lollowiiii* ordri

j'ollsvillr I'olirc I'oh r ; W.'.l I'.ikI I'.and ; Si. I'.miard's
Sn(irly; Si. John iIm- jiapli .t Sorir ly ; Si. (olin's .Sourly;
\\',i'.liiiii;lon HciK-JK iai .Soiiciy; (.ninan Mci haiiic s ; all
nlin T < ivK so( iriic ; ( (till I ami I )ar o(|i( «is ; lirr drparlinml ;
Thiid jliinsidr ISaiid : ( onipaiiy II, Tij-lidi K»';Minrii| ; ( oin
|t.iiiV K, l'.i';l»!l> K<7Minrni ; ( niii|Mtiy I', I'niiidi k»j;iiiHnl ;
\(>ikvill<' Itand; visiliiu; I'(»M'. ( ,. ,\, !<.(•! .SiMiiandoali, .S|.
(lair. Mincisv illf, Tori ( '.uhon and S( liii\ ikill I lavrn ; ( lovvm

r..',l. No. .'
and lii'Mids.

( I. A. i\., (iiiaid ol I Iniior ; licarsr ; ulalivcs

Tlir inlcnnrni look plaic al ihr ( imnan ( "alliolic C*in(!-

liTV. <>

I \vl)i( li i hiin I) dir <!)'(( a<('d

was a nvnilxt

)(is(|tli I'.lison was lioin on |aniiaiy ^'/tli, i.S.|(>, al I'adcn,
derm. niy. and lo avoid licini- dialled inio dw army lie Idl
his ralliciland, arriving; in Anuiiia on iIh- 2<^iIi <»! I < jaiiaiy,

|S()S.

In a l('tt<'|- to Ins hrolhcr

(»IS. (

lal<-d

>ix niijcs iiorili

ol l.aily I'ranklin i?ay, July ^»lli, i.S.Si, lir sa\s: "I am in j'«»od
IkmIiI) and spirits, and Iravr ihr Uniird Stairs with tlic lull

assurance thai I shall sc<- its shores ai-ain.

«r askiii}^ his

IViciids lo think kindly ol him, In- < om hnhs I>y sayinj^ : " I will
siii(l\' think ol yon in my cold altodc. Surrounded hy snow
aixl icf, my heart shall heat warm lor yon <v«ii shoiiM the
lllcrmometcr r<'!L^isl<'r (So de|L>rees helow zero."

The ohsecpiies ol LienlenanI James l». Lockwood, United
.Stat<s Army, were ol)s«'rved at .Ami.ipolis, Maryland, with all
the ceremoni<'s possible «liirin'' the vacalitm of the Naval
Academy. Iweryon*; nnit<'d in |)ayinL; honor to the distiii-
t^iiished dead, whos*' <'Xploit in rea( hin|^ tin; hij^diest latitnde
the loot of man ever trod, had added another name to the
roll of ilhistrions Annapolitans, whose fame is historic. 'I he
n'mains of lat.'utenant I.ockwood w<n; transfernrd, dnriiiL,^ tlu;
services, from th(* chapel of St. Ann(,''s to tli(; ciinrch. At
two o'clock the church Ix'^mh to (ill rapidly. The olfutTs,
professors, and cadets th(rn at the Naval Academy were

present, tojrethcr with a larj^e conj^rej^ation of leadinj^ citizens.

■ l)y the rector, Rev.
services for the dead as they

The pall-bearers were met at tin
Mr. S. Southgate, who read the

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454

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

proceeded down the main aisle. Halting at the chancel, the
pall-bearers deposited the remains on the altar and the ser-
vices were continued.

The pall-bearers were Lieutenant Peck, W. D. Orme, S.
W. Rittenhouse, W. Atkinson, Ensign R. B. Dashiell, and
Nevett Steele. The coffin was beautifully decorated with
flowers, in the centre a crown and the rest covered with
crosses. Lieutenant Lockwood's father, mother, and three
sisters and Admiral Balch were present.

After service was concluded at the church the corpse wrs
removed to the hearse, and the procession formed and pro-
ceeded down College avenue to the Naval Cemetery, the bell
of St. Anne's tolling a solemn dirge as the cortege moved
away in the following order:

Music; firing party; chaplain; pal 1 -bearers ; hearse; pall-
bearers; body-bearers; sailors, bearing national colors draped;
cadetr ; officers and professors ; the governor's guards ; car-
riages ; civilians.

On arriving at the Naval Cemetery the remains were de-
posited in a grave between those of Commander Edward
Terry and Lieutenant Collins, of the United States Navy, the
site of which is a high, woody bluff that overlooks the birth-
place and alma mater of the young hero. The religious rites
ended, the firing party gave the martial spirit a soldier's last
farewell, and Lieutenant Lockwood was left to sleep till the
final reveille.

Sergeant Edward Israel was buried at his home, Kalama-
zoo, Michigan. He was the youngest man in the expedition,
being only twenty-three years of age, and the only Hebrew in
it. His friends came on to receive the body.

Sergeant David Ralston was sent to Howard, Knox county,
Ohio.

Sergeant David Linn was buried in Philadelphia.

Private William A. Ellis' remains were taken charge of by
his mother for interment at Clyde, New York.

In the officiaj report of Edward H. Green, M. D., surgeon
of the steamship Thetis, of the Greely relief squadron, on the
condition of the survivors of the Greely party when found at
their camp on Smith's Sound, and their subsequent treatment,
and as a preliminary to the medical history of the case" of the
wretched survivors of the expedition, the surgeon gives a
rdsum^ of their mode of life at Camp Clay, in order that the

terribl:*, story of cannibalism. 455

reader may better appreciate the condition in which hey
were found.

On September 29th, 1883, Lieutenant Greely landed with
his party at Baird Inlet after thirty days' exposure drifting on
an ice-Hoe ; the record left at that time stated the party were
all well. On October 25th, they moved around to a point
between Cape Sabine and Cocked Hat Island. A glacier
was situated at the foot of the mountains on either side of
them, about a mile distant. They constructed a house of
loose rock and moss, the walls being three feet in thickness.
The roofing consisted of old canvas stretched over a boat ;
the dimensions of the house were 25 feet long by 17 feet wide
by 4 feet high, making a cubic air-space of 1,700 feet; in this
the twenty-five members of the party lived all winter, having
a cubic air allowance of about seventy feet for each man.
The whole party could barely squeeze in and lie at length,
two or three being obliged to occupy the same sleeping-bag ;
the effect of this diminished air-space will be seen later on.
Their hut was but 100 yards removed from the ice-foot of the
sound, and 200 yards to the south of them was an artificial
lake, from which they drew their water supply by melting up
ice ; as the sea-water strained into this lake, they were drink-
ing brackish water all the while.

On November ist, 1883, Lieutenant Greely took a careful
account of his stock of provisions, and found there was but a
whole ration for each man (estimating as an army ration,
about forty-six ounces of solid food per diem) for forty days.
Dr. Pavy and he advised together, and it was with some re-
luctance that they determined to divide up the rations so as to
make them last until March ist, putting aside from time to
time, so that at the end they would still have ten days' sup-
plies left with which to attempt the trip to Littleton Island, if
the straits were frozen over. Dr. Pavy did not think the
party could exist on the ration during the winter, but the
common voice was to make it go as far as it would ; so each
man was given the following daily allowance:

Meat and blubber '. 4.33 ounces.

Bread and dog biscuit 6.5 "

Canned vegetables and rice 1.4 "

Butter and lard 0.75 "

Soup and beef extract ,..0.90 "

Berries, pickles, raisins, and milk i. "

I i i i

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456

ARCTH: KXI'I.OKATIONS.

If- ^

Tho daily allowance for th(; four months was 14.8S ounces.
Duriiii; the winter tiur followinj^ amount of s^aiiu; was sttdind,
wiiich acKlcd to tliuir stores: two s(;als, yiijidini^ about u,,
pounds ol meat, one bear, yic.'lilinj; ^cx) pounds ot nu;at, ( i^hi
loxes, four pounds eaeii, and sixty dovekios (uria bruiuiithjij^
a small bird, weigiiinL; about a pound.

Marcii ist found tin; i.»arty intact, with the excejition of
SerL,'eant Cross, who dietl in January with well-marked scor-
butic symptoms — the only case of pronounced scurvy iluu
dm'eloped — ami 1 lans, their J'^sf|uimau hunter, who was lost
in his boat vvhile huntini^ seals, early in l-'ebruary. TIk; n^st
of thcr stores having,'' bi^m exiiausted, the remaining supplies
wen; ilivided up so as to last until May 12th.

After the last reduction th(' party bi:^Mn rapidly to weaken
and tlie. About the; 24th of March the whole party was ovcr-
couK? with asphyxia, and nearly lost their lives, owim,'^ to th(>
atmos|)here Ix'ini;' surchar^i.'d with carbonic acid. They luul
lit their alcohol stove in tlui hut to cook a mt-al, without j)rc-
viouslv haviuij' removed the raijs from the vent-hole in tlu-
roof: the remairiiuL,'' oxvi^en of the air was soon consunicil
by the stove, and the wliole party W(:re seized with iainliiess.
vertis^o, and dyspncua. It was with the j^jreatest difficulty tlu.y
strui^Li'K'd from their sleepinj^^-bai^^s, and stumbled ancl wcMe
helped into the oj)en air, many faintiui^ away and droppiiiir
unconscious after reachin;^ the openinor. Beini;' poorly clad
for a tenijATature such as .i)revailed outside at the time
( — 46" v.), many were frostbitten. The after effects of this
mishap remained for a long time, and weakenetl many of
them.

After May 12th everything like a regular ration was ex-
hausted, and they struggled on as best they could, catchinti^
the shrimps (which they boiled) ; gathering reindeer moss,
which, when boiled, yields a mucilage similar to Iceland moss,
and boiling up the sealskin linings of their sleeping-bags,
from which a gelatinous mass was extracted. They had no
fuel for artificial warmth, and barely sufficient to allow for
melting the i^e for procuring drinking water and to cook a
meal every other day; so that the living temperature of the
hut for the winter was from 5° to 10° Fahi. They recognized
the fact that the nearer they could approach a state of hiber-
nating, the better were their chances of getting through.
Only those employed as cooks and hunters exerted them*

''i'l^'i

SS oiin(<-s.
IS stMurcd,
about i2(;
iiu;at, linlu
jrimniihii),

:cc[iti<iii of
irkcd scor-
icurvy ihai
no was lost
Tilt" rcsl
ng sui)[)li(s

' to weaken
y was ovLT-
win,!^' to the
Tlicy luul
kvithoiit pro
■liolc ill tlu:
1 consumwl
ill laiiUncss.
fficiilty they
I ami were
(.1 droppiiii^f
poorly clad
It the time
fccts of this
jcl many of

ion was ex-
ikl, catchintj;
ide(.'r moss,
:elancl moss,
lepinof-bags,
iliey had no
o allow for
Id to cook a

iture of the
recognized

Lte of hiber-

ig through.

irted them*

■J

■n

■^
u

^457)

,1 :

i^K

fe;

45«

Ai«in* rxri.oKAiioNs.

I 1

srlvrs mnrh, and thry wrro ^ivrn a «lnnl)lr ration, Tlif psf
n(TUj)i<Ml tluMr slrrpin^-liaj^s, an«l sN-pl sixtcrn to <i..|)t,,.„
hours out of tin* twenty-four. In answer to roiuplaim . oi
hunj;rr Dr. Pavy's motto was, " (Jui tlort, dine," wliirli u,,s
philosophical without hriuj^ liliinj^.

Then! sc'cuicd to Im; hut litth; acute sufterinj;^ from th< I.kI,
of food. It was only alt<'r the introduction of food inio thr
stomach that the craving In-cam** j^reat. I'or days th< y ut m
without food without actual suflerinj;. 'I'he (halhs se< nw ,1 1,,
take place fmally from heart trouhle (hydrops perj<;u(lii).
The feet and face hecauK! o'dematous ; for a day or s(» ilx y
would complain of pain ov(T the heart; hav(! a spasm <»l |i,iiii
over the pra'cordia ; a slij^dit j;en<'ral (onvulsion, and all would
he over. Their chief suff<.*rinjr durinj; the winter was Ikuii
constipation.

There were! but seven out of the twenty-five found iilivc.
These were y\. \V. (ireely, Mrst Lieutenant, U. S. A.; lifiiry
Hietlerbcck, Hospital Steward; I). Hraiuard, .Serj^cuU, I'. S.
A.; Morris Comiell, Private, U. S. A.: Joseph I'.lisnii. Si i
i^eant. U. S. A.; Julius I'Vedericks, .Ser<;eant, U. .S. A.,
I'rancis Lonj;, Ser^i'ant, H .S. A. The hrst four mentioned
were taken on hoard the ilajL;sliip Thetis and placed iimh ••
my care, and with the«n this i)a[)er will principally he (oii
:ern(Kl.

June 22(1, II r. m., A. W. (ireely. Lieutenant, U. S. A., .it.
40. I)iseas<', asthenia. On. admission he fainted alter I Mini;
carried helow in the wardroom, anti vomited ; admiuisicicd
anmioni.i" spts. aromat. 6 c. c. (100 minims), renewed in ten
minutes ; placed him in a berth, ^ave a t(!aspoonful of raw,
fr(!sh beef, minceil ; clothes were carefully cut off of him and
heavy red llannels, previously warmed, substituted. His
body emitted a sickly, offensive odor ; emaciated to a decree.
The skin hanj^ini;^ from his limbs in Haps ; face, hands anil
scalp blackened with a thick cru«t of soot and dirt (having
not washed or changed his clothing for ten months).

hi an interview at Portsmouth Lieutenant Greely saiil, as
to the reports of divisions in the expedition : " hi re^artl to
the story of two factions, with Lieutenant Kislingbury in
charge of the opposition, I will say that that rumor is totally
false, having no foundation whatever. The trouble between
Kislingbury and myself occurred in 1881, the first year of thi'
expedition. He desired to be relieved from duty and I not

! -A '

TI'.KKini.K srokV «ii' CANNIHAflsM.

459

wisliiii;^' to retain a man against his will. alllHMi;^!! I had ihr
iiowcr U) <l<) so, ^avc hifM his lilM-rty. It is n»y impi'ssion
tli.it li'' <l'"sini| to r»'iiini to tin- Tuitrd State. Il<\v»nt
soiithwaid. Imt thr l'r«»l«Mis was sunk and hf i«tiiiM'(| to
(Inly. I in'al'd him as ihoiiidt iH»thin!L; liad ha|»|»*i)cd and
rci (lUly, when l.oikwood <h»'d, I y;{\i' Ki ,hnLd»ury thr sriond
|)la(«- in ill'* <'X|MMhtion."

" Wli.it do yon say abonl lh»j conchtion ol Kishn^lmry's
Ixxly?" asked th«' r('|)ort«r.

"I say that it is nrws, ,nid horrihl'- n«'.vs, to m*-. All these
hit'T disclosnres .itid frrildr <liari;»s (onv njion ni'- with
awliil suddenness. I can tnilliliilly say thai i hav siiffrrfd
luorr in'-ntai anguish tln'sr last h-w lays th.in I did in all my
sojourn in the North, when the ( hanes vvre a hundred to
one ai^ainst me. I can hnl r<|»(.it that if thcr'- was any
caiinihalism, and tlu-r*! now seems to he no doid»l ahout it,
the inan-ealin.L,^ was done in secrecy atid entirely without my
knowledge and contrary to my dis( ipliti'-. I (an ^ive no
slron^'er denial. I hav<' df-mand'd an investii^ation and it
will iomr. in timer, hut I (an say nothinj^^ more than I have
ah'cady stated. All my |>aj»ers and Kislin^d>nry's diary, Lf)ck-
wood's diary, and, in fact, (;very s( ra|) of paper relating' to the
(!Xp(;dition an; in charg*' of the War I >''parttn'nt at W'ash-
in^aou. 'I'he crew of tlu; 'I'lu-tis can testily that the hody of
the last man dead, .Schneidcrr, was not mullilated in any way,
and the fact that we ke|)t IJison alive in tiie hopeless state
we were in on,i,du to convince anybody tiiat we an,* not canni-
hals. .Sinc(; my return from Newl)ur\'port eve-ry one of my
men has called npon me. They ( ame in a hody, and assured
ine empiiaiically that they kn(;w nothini,^ about the c(^ndition
of th<; l)()di(;s of their fallen comrades, and each solemnly
swore that he was inn(HX.'nt. I'crhaps thos»: who died last
fed upon the b(Klies of those wIuj di(;d Ijefore : hut all this is
siip|)osition. I can hut answer ft)r myself and for my orders
to the party. For days and weeks I lay on my back unable
to move. If in my enfeebled condition one or more of my
men AkI upon human flesh it was beyond my control and
certainly beyond my knowledge. I know that I have been
criticised for not telegraphing the fact of the shooting of
Henry as soon as I arrived at St. John's, but you must re-
member that I was in a wretched condition of body and mind.
I was in a cjuandary whether or not I should be tried for

.1 1

4^0

AK( IK I'.Xri.nKAIIdNS.

iminlcr, as Henry was shot on my own responsibility and ii.»t
l)y tlu" order of a regular eonrl inarlial."

I lie si( kenini^' horrors that (luster about (Ireely's liiil.
part)' of \vr«l( lied cannibals hav<' not yet hail been told. IIk
aiknowledi^ed shoot ini; ol I jenry, tlu' lindin;^ ol the bod\ oi
lat'iilenanl KisiinL^bnry stri|»|»e(l ol' (lesh, the bnryinj^ ol a
\\«»od<n iniat;*' and a lew bones nnder the name (»f iVivaic
1 ItMiry. tiu' n)ys!erions, |i<'rsistent retieenee of ilu; ollKcrs—
all these point to rev«laiions yel to toin<'. When the olluiai
incpiiry is instituted it is elaimed thai (In- present Uiiown
horrible lacts will sink into insii^nilicance by the side ol ih,.
terrible. !L;hoiil like stories that will I)e wrun;; Irtim nnwilliiiM
witnesses.

Alter the thron|L; of curious visitors had left the Arcti( llcci
at Hrookl) n the jimior ollicer Ix'canur mor<* communicative.
As the twilij^ht settled d(!wn he L;rew philosophical and Icll
to morali/.iiiL; on the awful st<»ries the survivors had burdeiictj
him with, lie seemed achiuu;- to share his secret with some
one. and with little uri^iu!^- toKl wliat he knew of the late ol
the lour nun that wenr washed away. There was no on( on
deck, aiul the monotonous la|)|)in<4 of the water ai^ainst the
dark sides of the; vessel was the only accomi)animenL to the
oTuesome storv whispered ])\- tin- ollicer:

"Poor 1 >r. I*avy! i cannot rid myself of his ima_!.;<'," bc^an
the youiiu; sailor, briiiLjiiiL; his chair still closer. '* lie is j^ct-
tini^ to be a ni!.;htmare with me, and if he comes to me in such
a manner lunv must it be with those; mad wretches who fell
upon him aiul ilevoured him? \'ou may think the shootiiii^^
of Henry was sat! enough, but infinitely more pathetic was
the death of tliis poor fellow. To lie there on his couch and
see the luinsjry eves of his stron^jer comrades Lrloalin<' over
his wasted form and prayini; for his death was enoiiL;!! to
drive a well man mad. And so it drove this poor sick cloctor
to his death. He died by his own liand that the starving
'tevils about him mioht have one more meal.

"Tile very day that Henry was condemned to die Surqcon
Pavy took hiij own life. The despairintj little company had
split up into two factions, both clamoring^ for the death of
some one that the others might live. With all his strength
of character Lieutenant Greely was forced to yield to the de-
mands of these mad wretches, and with heavy heart issued
the order that took Henry from his living comrades and

mum.

TKUKIIII r. sroKY <il CANNIIlAI.fSM.

461

plan*' Jii^ llcsii at llu- mrny of tli<: inni win) Iml a lew mln-
iilc. Itrlon; had callfMl liim Kiotlicr. I hi-, lailimi lonk ilnr
l„)(lv <>r the «h-a(l mail ami I i|)i i^uard ovrr it in the L;iavc-
vani on iIh' hill. Ihry had iik at leu* srviral days and du-y
iiirant lo jL^iianl with jralous wau Iiliihu.'ss their };iaviyard
'iiiiiii'.' room. I hr olh<i- la< lion down hy th<- s' a \v<r<: widi-
oiit ('V«n a handlul ol shrini|),. lluy knew dir graveyard
on \\\r hill fonlain«tl a (orpsc, and with hjiid nnirnuirs ol ilis-
(oiilriil d<'( lan-d that sonii: one ol their party must siilirr lor
lh<: n-st. i )r. I*avy was the weakest ol them all. i\l»oiit his
(Kill); conch they clustered and sal lor hours uinnoveil, watth-

m.AR KN ri;Ri.N(; a mut in thk arciu: ku.ioNs.

\n<^ each bn^ath and hopinc,^ that his death iniL,du not he. lonjr
delayed. The nuito appeal <)( those wild, huniLjry (.'y(;s, ph^ad-
iiii; for an early di-ath was too much for him, and with a last
(lesj)airin^ effort he* rush(;d down to the sea and was picket!
up dead. Almost before th(; heart had ceas(id to beat, b(;fore
the corpse was cold, those mad men — for they were mad —
rushed upon the body and with thc'ir sailors' sheath knives
i\u'^ into the warm flesh. They strij)ped lone" shreds of flesh
and skin from off the bones while yet the muscles quivered
with the life that had just i^one out. These ohastly drippintj
morsels they carried to the little fire and haixlly waiting till
the chunks of meat turned brown, tore them with their teeth "

Nfl

■ 1

J !•

4.62

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

k!";?:

■* ■!'

Ulyt

— and with a weary sigh the officer dived down into his
cabin.

The records show tliat the body of Surgeon Pavy was
" washed away." He died on June 6tli. Three days before
Seaman Coop died, on June 12th, Sergeant Gardiner was
missed and four days later Private Bender is recorded as
dead. All these bodies were reported " washed awa)' by the
sea." The fact that these men died within convenient market
days of each other and the reported finding of a headless
trunk other than that of Henry explain too clearly the awtnl
meaning hidden in the mysterious explanation, "washed
away."

It was late in the afternoon of August 1 4th when the news
from Rochester reached the Arctic fleet. Commander Scliley,
with Lieutenants Emory and Colville, were enjoying them-
selves at a reception given by Commodore Fillebrowne ; and
the Thetis, the Bear, and Alert were left in charge of junior
officers. The decks were alive with gayly dressed youn^
ladies, gossiping and flirting with the handsome officers. The
phrill treble of their laughter echoed from the quarterdeck,
and from the totnfortable cabin below came the joyous sounds
of convivial merry-making. The forecastle was equally given
over to jollification, and the bronzed sailors vied with eadi
other in making their quarters attractive to the ladies. The
vessels looked more like pleasure-boats than heavy Arctic
ships.

In a moment all this was changed. The awful story of the
eaten body spread through the crowd like a flash. The
laughter grew silent, the sounds of merriment in the cabin
died away. The officers turned from their fair companions to
listen to the tale, and the sailor's jaw dropped over the half-
told story. There was no need for further concealment.
The worst was known, and the officers felt at greater liberty
to talk. The visitors spoke in whispers, and touched with
reverent awe the relics of the Arctic heroes. They felt in-
stinctively tl^at it would be a profanation to remain any longer,
so one by one they stepped silently over the vessel's side.

Under the awning on the quarter-deck the junior officer
told in low tones the story of the eating of the bodies as it
had been told him. He was indignant that the facts had not
been permitted to moulder into forgetfulness locked up in the
archives of the War Department, but now that all was known,

TKUUriU.K STORY OF CANNIHAMSM.

4^5,?

Tie held that the survivors were to be honored and not blamed
lor the lengths they had gone to keep alive.

" Do you think that it was from ciioice these wretched men
brought themselves to feed upon such tlesh ? " he ;^sked.
"Can you imagine anything more loathsome to the men them-
selves than their first descent upon these corpses which had
but a few hours before been their living, loving brothers?
Do you believe for a moment that they loved this flabby, nau-
seating food ? It was easier to die than to live upon their
brother's flesh, but their duty to their country forbade their
dying, and, like noble men, they kept the feeble spark of life
alive at the cost of ever)'t!iing but -life itself. I honor them
for it. It is the very acme of heroism. When all the stories
of Arctic suffering have been written, and the songs of Arctic
heroism sung, above them all shall stand the record of these
men who ate their comrades that they might live to give to
the world the fruits of their three years' toil. And if you
could but hear the survivors tell of their mad hunger, of die
awful suffering that crazed their minds, you would not blame
them for this last sad step.

"Here, on this very spot, one of the survivors held us
through all one night telling, if words can tell, of his first
taste of human flesh. He would give years from his life to
forget it, but, he said, that first taste, the sensation of having
between his teeth the flesh of one who had been once his
friend, was with him always. Waking^ or sleeping, he seemed
to feel his lips pressing the smooth, flabby meat that must be
choked down somehow if he would live. And then the in-
human, savage way of getting it ! Each feeder upon such
food must cut off his own shreds of flesh. No friend could
be found to perform this horrible office. Every man, if he
would eat, must of necessity be his own butcher. And these
cannibalistic orgies, these midnight feasts, were secret. The
little beaten path, worn smooth between the graveyard and
the wretches' tent, told its own tale. But every dweller in
that tent shut his eyes and refused to see. Body after body
was stripped of flesh, but none of those that trod that litde
path dared speak of this. No man asked a question at the
too common sight of a starving wretch, creeping up to the
only fire at midnight, carrying in his hand a strip of flesh.
As he thrusts this into the flame on the end of a pointed stick,
no one of his companions says a word. And when tearing

«ll

M-i'

' H

464

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

} IF 1 1

» !

^M!

. 1 ii,^ 1

!i4ii^

the smokin£T flesh with his teeth he lies down, and another of
the would-be sleepers rises up and j^oes silently down that
mysterious path, knife in hand, it is easy to guess his horrid
purpose.

"And the after-effects of these ghastly feasts were as awful
as the descent upon the mangled corpses. The mere tliowlit
of what they had eaten brought on nausea, and in their weak
state the stomach refused to retain this human flesh. Is it
wonderful that these men will carry that sensation of chewinc-
human flesh forever? ' I hope and pray I may forget it wIk n
I die,' was the only prayer that the wretched cannibiil could
truly pray. It was his heaven of heavens to forget that awful,
sickening taste."

And so the officer went on telling in his own way all he
had heard.

Commander Schley paced the deck and communed with
himself. " If you only knew my position you would not ask
me to say a word," he said, in a kindly, sorrowing voice.
" My only duty is to the government. I have convictions,
strong convictions on this subject, but I have no right to say
a word row. I wish I had. At the proper time my lips inav
be opened, but now I dare not open them."

If tlie stories of the sailors can be believed, not a sin<;le
body from the north in the metallic coffins but would revi-al
traces of the knives of their living companions. The locality
in wdiich the men lived was thought to be enough to prove
the worst fears true. Shrimp could not be caught, and ihe
obtaining of game was almost out of the question. Tluir
camp scene had been the same, the sailors thought, as luin-
dreds of others they had heard of, and the stories they told
did not seem to be the flotsam and jetsam of the forecastle.
That some of the living had to die for their companions' sake
had been a foregone conclusion, and when the ill-fated Henry
was shot, it is urged, it was not so much for a breach of mili-
tary discipline as to fill men's stomachs.

The sailors laughed when spoken to of Henry's body.
They had never seen his body or heard of it. They had seen
and heard of a little pile of bones, which were as clean as
turkey's legs at a poor man's Christmas dinner. The bones
had been laid out on a board on the snow, and the parts were
placed in what seemed to be the relative positions. Upon
them were seen the indentations of sheath-knives, and long

'< I

TERRIDLE STORY OF CANNIBALISM.

465

scratches that looked as thousi^h they had been made by teeth,
and if so not from the teeth of wild animals, for tliere are
none at Cape Sabine, but from the teeth of the starvincr men
who fell upon him before the blood had left his body. Then
the body was buried, and the days orew dark again, and
more futile attempts were made to catch shrimp. It was use-
less, and the different frozen impressions around the unmarked
orave of Henry proved that more than one meal had been
nicuie of the body. Again and again it was dug up and put
back into its icy coffin, only for the same reason that beef is
put into an ice-box. Hence it was diat when the body was
taken up for the last time, flesh, which neitlier rotted in such
a climate nor been devoured by wild animals, was gone.

The grave-yard of the starving band became their dining-
room, as one of the Thetis's men express<id it, and thither
they went regularly. That Lieutenant Greely was unaware
that the rough hands of the sailors, which had toiled so hard
in the voyage across the icy seas, were engaged" in tearing
away the flesh of their dead companions, is probably true.
Lieutenant Greely, by his posidon and his natural character,
was, perhaps, out of respect, kept in ignorance of the canni-
balistic life the men were leading for a long time, for all die
time perhaps, and yet when such a supposition was laid
before one of the Thetis's men, he smiled and turned away.
He spoke soon, and asked if half a dozen starving men, who
had given up all hope of ever seeing their dear ones again,
would make a difference in men in low or high station. No-
where on the face of the earth had there been such a com-
munistic city as the embryo hamlet in the North, and all must
have lived the same.

A picture of the camp cannot be imagined more truly than
from Commander Schley's first account of it. It was pitched
by the sea at Cape Sabine. The men had two forts, one at
the sea. line and the other farther inland. At the sea fort the
bodies were first buried. Five bodies, die commander said,
had been buried here. The sea rose one day and washed
away half the fort, and, peculiarly, the half in which were
buried the five dead seamen. From the second fort up to
the sea one of the sailors report that there was a beaten
track in the snow. It was a clear and even one, and had
been formed by the passing to and fro of men. Certainly
not five funerals could have made such an impression. " How

\S\ ;

■ <

19! I

¥':%'

)

4<S6

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

was the fort erected ? " was unconsciously asked, and tht- sail-
ors fell back as though to answer would be to lift the veil
from a dark and horrible story. But there was no gainsayiivr
the fact that the men believed that here in the beginning one
or two of the survivors had stolen out at night to this fort
and, with their sheath-knives, mangled the bodies and fed
where Commander Greely could not 'see them, and the only
witnesses to their horrible banquets the white fields of snow
and ice. Hunger made them bolder, the sailors argued, and
Lieutenant Greely, gfowing weaker, did not ask where the
men were going who stole out to the fort by the sea.

Horrible as this story may appear, there are facts even
more terrible locked up in the frozen sea, and only whisper-
ings of them could be obtained from the sailors. Even the
flesh of the dead men became comparatively scarce, and as
the chances of escape grew darker there were divisions and
subdivisions of the bodies, and that human flesh was stolen
just as Henry had stolen the bacon there can be little doubt.
One of the sailors said that down by the camp pieces of flesh
had been turned up from the snow in out-of-the-way places,
giving the idea that when the men went to the fort to eat,
some of them had stolen pieces of the flesh and buried them
by the camp to feast on when the last of the supplies would
be gone. Such things had happened before among the
whalers, and men were on a level when their stomachs were
empty. One of the sailors, who had turned up human flesh
from the snow, remarked it to an oflicer, who said : " Pshaw,
those are rations, and, of course, they kept them fresh in the
snow," as though the meat would putrefy where thermome-
ters were ornaments. The word cannibalism was never men-
tioned by the officers on the homeward trip, although it was
well known that it was under discussion in the forecastle.
The fate of Henry was kept secret. Flags were wrapped
above his coffin, although the greater part of his remains
were in the sea or had gone to nourish the survivors, and the
flags waved over a few bones and pieces of wood and cloth
made in the shape of a man.

Until the death of Surgeon Pavy, of the Greely party, which
occurred on June 6th, three weeks before rescue came, the
flesh cut from most of the dead bodies for use by the sur-
vivors as food and bait was removed by a hand skilled in dis-
section. A fev of the bodies had the fleshy portions cut

TERRIBLE SIORY OF CANNIH/^LISM.

467

away entire. But with the majority the work had been so
well done that a casual observer would not have suspected
without further evidence, of which there was plenty, however,
that tiie survivors had been reduced to cannibah'sm, and had
for a long time been subsisting- principally on the bodies of
their dead comrades. It is not a coincidence that the body
of Dr. Pavy, with those of two others who died after him,
should be reported as washed away. With the surgeon gone
the scalpel could not be used. Before, the bodies had been
left with Httle mark of the terrible work done. After his
death the survivors were forced to dismember the bodies and
denude them of flesh in a way that left nothing but bones.
So these unfortunates were reported as buried in an ice-floe
and washed away, and to the list was added Corporal Sailor,
who died on June 3d, and Sergeant Rice, who died on
April 9th.

On most of the bodies an incision was made from the clavi-
de downward below the ribs. The scalpel was then passed
along under the skin, and the flap was carefully laid back on
either side. The flesh was then removed from the ribs, the
skin was pulled back in place, and the edges were carefully
joined so that there was no external evidence left of the
ghastly work but a dark line. The thighs were treated in the
same manner, the skin being replaced about the fleshless
bones. The legs were stripped to the ankle-joints, and the
arms to the wrists. The hands, feet and face were not muti-
lated. This was a work requiring skill, and must have been
a long and careful operation. No one in the party except
the surgeon could so skilfully remove the flesh from a human
body and leave the skin intact. How Dr. Pavy met his death
has not been explained, but it was probably by the knife.
With him gone, and every day the pangs of hunger growing
more unbearable, the caution was relaxed, and the survivors
ate of human flesh however they could easiest secure it.

In the last days, before relief came to the wretched men, it
was the doctrine of the survival of the strongest that ruled.
All sense of honor and of feeling had been lost. It was Ser-
<i[eant Long who first saw the steam-launch, and slid down
the snow and ice from the distress signal to greet the rescu-
ing party. His face and beard were covered with blood from
a duck which he had recently shot and had been eating raw.
It is stated that he stopped to conceal half the body of the

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468

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

bird before sliding down the snow. He was the strongest of
the party, and, despite the frightful gale, was able to walk to
the launch. Sergeant Fredericks also had considerable
strength left, and clambered on board the Thetis almost un
aided. After so many months in the desolate Arctic regions,
after so much suffering, and passing through such scenes of
horror, it was seldom that die men stood upright. They
crawled about on their hands and knees over the rocks and
ice, and when Sergeant Brainard was undressed on board the
Thetis his knees were found calloused to a thickness of over
half an inch. In the midst of such horrors it was wondered
by the rescuing party how Greely and his few companions
kept their reason. About the camp were scattered bones of
the dead, and dissected and mutilated bodies were half ex-
posed in the little burial plot back of the tent. !t was a scene
at which the rescuers shuddered as they looked and the truth
stood revealed.

The bodies of those who died natural deaths were not
mutilated where death had been caused by disease. As to
how many died of scurvy accounts differ. Commander Schley
reported seventeen as having died from starvation. Sergeant
Cross, the first of the exploring party to die, passed away
last New Year's day, according to Commander Schley's re-
port. He did not die of starvation, but from the use of
liquor. He would drink anything that had a suspicion of
alcohol about it, even paint. This love for liquor was so
strong among some of the sailors of the relief party that the
carpenter, using a little alcohol with which to mix shellac,
was obliged to guard it as a miser hides away his money.
Sergeant Connell, one of the rescued, says that Cross died
of scurvy on January i8th. At St. John's it was reported
that one of the two men lost on April 9th died of scurvy.
With several dead of scurvy and Henry shot, all did not die
of starvation. Instead, it is feared that others met death as
Henry did. It is known that court-martials were of frequent
occurrence in the Greely camp. Dr. Pavy was on trial no
less than three times. There were dissensions among the
men, and as their condition grew more desperate these in-
creased. Until weakened in body and mind by privation
each did all he could for the others. But at the last the
struggle for life became single. It was each man for him-
self.

TERRIBLE STORY OF CANNIBALISM.

469

The officers of the relief vessels still refuse to say any-
thing on the unpleasant subject, as is their duty. Sailors talk
freely. But some of the scenes they describe are too revolt-
ino" for repetition. At the Greely camp matters were found
in as bad a condition as it is possible to imagine. The disin-
terment of the remains of Lieutenant Kislingbury has shown
only what could be revealed by the opening of any of the
other iron coffins. Where only scattered bones were left no
attempt was made to put them together except in the casket
marked Private Henry.

Frederick Taylor, member of the Thetis crew, and one of
the men who rescued Lieutenant Greely from his starvation
at Cape Sabine, returned to his home in Buffalo. The vvriter,
who called on him, was shown a piece of the identical seal-
skin for stealing which private Henry was shot. It looks
like a pretty tough morsel for food, being simply leather and
nothing else. The hair had all been boiled or scraped off.
Samples of Arctic willow, six or eight inches high, out of
which tea was made, were also preserved by Mr. Taylor;
likewise reindeer moss and lichens from the rocks. A tusk
of walrus from Saunders' Island represents to him a visit to
the most northerly settlement of human beings. A faded
piece of brown bunting (once red) and a strip that was once
white is preserved as a relic of Lieutenant Lockwood's
northerly venture, being part of the flag planted there for a
few hours. Another flag-relic is a piece of the signal of dis-
tress flown at Camp Clay, four miles from Cape Sabine. A
model of a " kyak," or Esquimau canoe, is prized very highly
for its beauty of construction. A bull's-eye lantern and a
sk^in of woollen yarn were rescued from the Greely camp as
souvenirs.

'iPVr

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i 4

CHAPTER XXIX.

CONCLUSION.

The Cicely Records — His Offitial Ucpoit Stiit Fn — Views of Prominent Officers aii'l Scien-
tisis Ki'i;;ii(ling tlic (Jnely Kxpcdilioii — Dr. iMiiil Hossells, Ciciicral Hcnnct, Mr. duorjje
Kecnan, Lieutenant D.uienhower and Nindemann Denyiiit; Scnsalion;il Re|K)its— The
Condition of (Jreoly's Men wlieii Found — An Unofficial Kepurt of Licutenaiu (Jix-cly—
Some Hlame for Crecly — Serjeant Hrainaiil^^liv. D.cfenfie pj I.ieutenant (Jieciy— Ihe
Relief of Clieely — Uepoit of Commander Schley of the ICxpedition — Just in 'rime — Des-
perate Situation of the I'ariy on Anival of the Relief Ships — 'I'errihle SulTerin(j and
Death — The Condition of the Camp — Six Hoilics had been Cut and the Fleshy parts Re-
moved to a greater or less Kxlenl — General liazcn on Uarlington's Failure— Coiigrc*.
sional Livesligation Suggested.

TnK records and relics of the Greely Arctic expedition,
which were brought to New York by the relief party and
there turned over to the authorities at Governor's Island, a
few days later were brought to Washington and delivered to
the chief signal officer. The latter directed Lieutenant Ray,
of the signal service, the officer who commanded the Point
Barrow expedition, to take charge of them. They will be
Used by Lieutenant Greely in making his report of the expe-
dition, and by the chief signal officer in making his report to
the secretary of war. The collection includes all the records
of the scientific work and discoveries of the Greely party,
their instruments and the private papers and diaries of mem-
bers. General HazcMi says that when the expedition was
fitted out every member was supplied with blank books in
which to keep his personal record of the events of his stay
in the Arctic regions. It was the understanding that these
records were to be tlieir personal property, and were not to
be subject to the supervision of Lieutenant Greely or any
one else. Seventeen of them are now in the custody of Lieu-
tenant Ray\ Their contents will be considered as confidential
between the govenmient and the writers, and while portions
of them will be used, as it was mtended they should be when
provision was made for their compilation, in making up the
history of the expedition, nothing that they contain will be
(470)

CONCLUSION.

471

macl(^ l)ublic until Lieutenant Greely's report of the expedi-
tion has been made.

The report of Lieutenant Greely was sent in by him dur-
in<r the latter part of September, and will be published with
the report of the Chief Siijnal Officer, General Hazen.

Dr. Bessells, chief of the scientific staff" of the Polaris, upon
bciiii;^ asked by a reporter soon after the arrival of the rescu-
in<i^ tleet what he thoujrht of the work Greely had done,
said:

"As to the real scier ific work of the expedition, we as yet
know very little, but Greely probably followed his instruc-
tions, and made all the observations required by the Inter-
national Conference held at Hamburi^. As one of the <:^eo-
araphical features of tlve .jex{).udU I may mention that

Lieutenant Lockwood and Serfjeant Br^ard reached latitude
83 de<;. 24 min. north, trettinci^ about four miles north of the
hiij^hest point readied by Captain Markham of the F^nglish
expedition under Sir Geor<je Nares on May 12, 1876. The
hiLjhest point reached by the International Station officer is
apparently an island, which they have named after Lieutenant
Lockwood. ' From an elevation of 2,000 feet ' they saw no
land to the north, which proves that Greenland actually does
not extend beyond the eighty-fourth parallel, as I have proved
myself several years ago on theoretic grounds by means of
tidal wave observations. The tidal wave, following the east
coast of Greenland, passes along its northern border and en-
ters Robeson Channel. Another point of geographical interest
is the fact that the expedition supposes that it actually sighted
the west coast of Grinnell Land, running almost due south
from the fdrthe?t point reached by Lieutenant Aldrich in May,
1876."

Here Dr. Bessells referred to the despatches, and, with
compass and pencil, marked out the points referred to, and
sketched the hitherto unknown western border of Grant
Land. Lake Hazen, Ruggles River, Weyprecht Fiord, the
Conger Mountains and Mount Arthur, he said, were newly
discovered and newly named places. Continuing, Dr. Bessells
said: "That makes Grant Land a peninsula connected with
Grinnell Land by an isthmus, as Boothia Felix is connected
with the northernmost coast of the continent. Another point
of geographical value is what they say about Hayes' Sound,
about the western extension of Hayes' Sound, which in-

472

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

I' ■ I . .-,.,,,„,

creases the distance of the latter from its mouth by twenty
miles. When the. Polaris expedition, after havin*; been sliip.
wrecked, wintered near Ktah, an Ksquinian settlement, they
were informed by the natives that Hayes' Sound was not
landlocked, but that it connected with the Western Sea, thus
making- Grinnell Land an island. The Enj^lish expedition,
under Sir Georj^e Nares, judging- from the sluggishness of
the tide, considered it a bay of no great extent.

"Greely seems to have brought his instruments and records
all away with him. If we consider how difficult it is to carry
heavy instruments like a magnetometer, etc.. Lieutenant
Greely can scarct^ly receive too much praise. The value of
his records of observations would not have been as great it the
instruments with which the observations were made had not
been brought bark for comparison with the standard instru-
ments kept here.''

Dr. Bessells criticised with some severity the judgment
of General Hazen in the organization of the relief expedi-
tions. The first, he said, was placed in command of an in-
temperate man, and the second was under the control of a
cavalry officer, who had never had any nautical experiencir
and whose orders were very vague. It would probably turn
out. Dr. Bessells said, that Greely had provisions enough to
last another year at Lady Franklin Bay. With respect to
Commander Schley's report of the condition of the ice in
Smith's Sound, Dr. Bessells said it was yet too early to form
an opinion as to what the season would be. The ice never
breaks up so early, and X would be folly to attempt to pass
north before the middle of August.

General Bennet Chief of the Ordnance Bureau, who was
president of the court of inquiry which investigated the failure
of the Proteus expedition, was asked if the failure to estab-
lish a station at Littleton Island had anything to do with the
loss of so many of Greely's party.

" I am afraid it had a great deal to do with it," was the
reply. " Lieutenant Greely confidently expected to find suc-
cor at Littleton Island. He abandoned his station at Lady
Franklin Bay early in August and proceeded southward. He
was so confident of finding supplies farther south, that he
did not use all those which had been cached on his way down.
Upon reaching Cape Sabine he found only the stores whidi
the Proteus cached, 250 rations, and the small amount left

CONCLUSION.

473

by Nares in 1875. Accord! nor to the despatch he came be-
low Cape Sabine as far as liaird Inlet, when; h(; abandoned
his boats. Why that was done we do not know. He was
lor nearly a month on an ice lloe, whicii drifted him back to
Cape Sabine, wiiere he made his permanent camp. He iiad
but few stores to subsist on, but it was the best he could
do. Littleton Island is in a southeasterly direction from Cape
Sabine, only about twenty-five miles distant. He could not
reach it, because the channel was open. If he had been able
under the circumstances he would have been worse off than
he was, because only 250 rations were there left by Beebe in
1882. Hut suppose a station had been established at Little-
ton, and men left there with provisions, boats and telescopes,
as Greely expected would be the case, the whole party might
have been saved. Greely would have signalled from Cape
Sabine, as he probably did in vain. If the party had been
seen, as they probably would have be( n, the men at Littleton
Island would have made an effort, and probably a s iccessful
one, to cross over and rescue them, notwithstanding stormy
weather."

Mr. George. Ken nan, of Washington, D. C, who has ♦aken
an active interest in the recent attempts to relieve Greely's
party, and who went before the Arctic reli(;f board last spring
to urge the offering of such a reward as would secure the
co-operation of the whaler in the search, was asked by a re-
porter what he thought of the news received from St. John's.
He replied : " It is a story of remarkable and heroic achieve-
ment in the field, clouded by disaster due to incompetence in
Washington. If Lieutenant Greely and his party had all
returned in safety to the United States, as they might have
clone had they been properly supported, their Arctic record,
in point of skilful management and success, would have been
unparalleled. No other Arctic expedition has ever spent two
consecutive winters and part of a third in such high latitudes
and achieved such results without a casualty or a single case
of serious sickness. If Lieutenant Greely had found at the
mouth of Smith's Sound the shelter and food which he had a
right to expect there, he would probably have brought his
entire party back to the United States in perfect health, after
three winters in the highest northern latitudes that have ever
been reached, and after a series of sledging campaigns, which
lor boldness and skilful execution have rarely been surpassed."

;ii

474

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

"Could the disaster which befell his party have been averted
with tJKj knowledge available at the time the relief expedi-
tions were fitted out?"

" Unquestionably ; and that is the pity of it. It doubles the
grief which must be felt in the face of such a terrible catas-
trophe to think that two ships on successive years, and prob-
ably a third, were in a position to land stores which would
have saved the lives of those eighteen dead men. Becbc, in
1882, anchored in Payer Harbor, just north of Cape Sahiiu;,
with a ship full of stores. Garlington, the next sumiiuir,
anchored in the same place, also with a ship full of stores,
and a few days later the Yantic, with four months' provisions
on board, was only thirty miles away. Any one of these
three ships might have landed stores enough, exacdy where
Greely afterward made his winter camp, to have carried that
brave party through ; but their commanding officers were not
ordered to do so, and they did not think of it."

" Were Greely's movements those which it was anticipated
he would make ? "

" They were precisely such as I anticipated. It was thought
at the Signal Office that he would remain at his station until
September ist; but as I pointed out in a letter to the New
York Herald on the 17th of last September, if he remained
until September ist he could not get away at all that year, 011
account of the impracticability of sledging operations alon^
that coast in the fall. I therefore thought he would abandon
his station in July or August, 1883, and come down to th(
mouth of Smith's Sound in boats, as he was, in fact, doing at
the very time my letter was written. It was of course a ter-
rible shock and disappointment to him when he failed to find
the shelter and food which he expected, but the party seems
to have faced the terrors of an Arctic winter, without shelter,
fire, or adequate food, in a most heroic manner, and to have
held out to the last with unflinching courage and extraordinary
tenacity. If a few hundred more rations could have been
saved from the wreck of the Proteus they would have carried
the whole party through. All but one of the dead perished
last spring after the 4th of April."

" If Lieutenant Garlington had landed stores on his way
north at Littleton Island, in accordance with what were known
as his ' supplementary instructions,' would such stores have
been of any use to Lieutenant Greely?"

CONCLUSION.

475

"As it turned out, not the slij^htest. There* were a few
hundred rations on Littleton Island, but Grccly could not
•ret across the tossin^^ ice of Smith's Sound to avail himself
of them. The place to land stores, as repeatedly pointed out
by Dr. Hoadley, Mr. Merriam, and others, and as shown by
die example of the Nares expedition, was the vt^estern coast
of the sound — the coast that Greely must come down — not
the opposite coast, which he mij^ht never reach. It is to the
caches made by the British expedition of 1875 on the western
coast that the few survivors of Lieutenant Greely's party
mainly owe their lives."

" How important are the discoveries made by Lieutenant
Gre(!ly ?"

"From the point of view of an Arctic q^eographer they are
of first-class importance. Lieutenant Greely has not only
taken away from Commander Markham, of the British navy,
•the blue ribbon of Arctic discovery' for the highest latitude
ever attained in any part of the world, but he has greatly ex-
tended the limits of the Nares explorations bodi in Greenland
and Grinnell Land, and has given a severe Licw to Captain
Nares' palaeocrystic ice, and the theories which the latter
founded upon it. The fact that two of Greely's sledge parties
were stopped by open water in the polar basin, and that both
were at times adrift in strong currents which threatened to
carry them helplessly away northward, would seem to show
that the polar basin is not the solid sea of ancient, immovable
ice which Nares described, and which he declared was 'never
navigable.' Lieutenant Greely's explorations extended over
three degrees of latitude and nearly forty degrees of longi-
tude. He has virtually ascertained the true outline of Grin-
nell Land, has crossed from east to west, and on the northern
coast of Greenland has Qfone one decree of latitude and ten
degr'ies of longitude beyond the farthest point reached by
Captain Nares' accomplished sledging ofificer, Lieutenant
Beaumont. These achievements alone reflect the highest
credit upon Lieutenant Greely and his men ; but to them
must, of course, be added the great mass of scientific knowl-
edge gathered by the party during their two years at Lady
Franklin Bay, the records of which have fortunately been
saved. When these observations have been collated and put
in order, they will be found not second in importance to any
furnished by the circle of international polar stations."

H'':,

;\i

476

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

Lieutenant Danenhower, U. S. N., of the Jeannettc expe.
dition, who is now doing duty on the Minnesota, said, am-
cerninor the rehef of the Greely party, that the Thetis relief
party was tlie best equipped that was ever sent to the north-
ern latitudes. He was aslced whether there could not be a
cause for regret that such a well-prepared fleet had not
pushed its way farther north after having accomplished its
object.

" No," answered Lieutenant Danenhower. " That expe-
dition started out with definite instructions, and it could do
no more than carry them out. I know that Commander
Schley went up there with the single object of finding the
Greely party and returning after having done so. If personal
ambition had ruled his movements there is no telling what he
might have don*^. But he acted conscientiously, expeditiously,
energetically, and skilfully, and we have the great result. He
might have pushed his way through Smith Sound as he did
through Melville Bay. Smith Sound is the most treacherous
part of the Polar Ocean. But Mr. Schley's caution, prudence,
and admirable discretion made him successful in his under-
taking."

Referring to the hardships the Greely party must have
undergone, Lieutenant Danenhower said: "Their journey
over the ice from F"ort Conger to Cape Sabine must have
been terrible. The distance, if I remember rightly, was 250
miles. At Cape Sabine Greely probably found the records
of Lieutenant Garlington. The explorers must have seen
the relief ship in the offing, and crawled as best they could
out on the ice to meet her, for the despatch says that tiiey
were picked up about five miles out from the cape. It is re-
markable that an Esquimau should have been the second man
to die. And another Esquimau died among the first — 011
April 24th. This would seem to show that the white man
can outlive even the Esquimaux under such circumstances;
although, perhaps, those poor fellows overworked themselves
as did Alexei of the DeLong party. Speaking of the streni;th
of men. Lieutenant Greely was considered a delicate man, and
most peoplu believed that he would give out under hardships.
We novr see that he did not. His wife always expressed
confidence in his physical and mental capacity, and during all
this suspense had borne herself in a dignified and sensible
manner."

CONCLUSION.

477

Lieutenant Danenhower spoke of a couple of the lost men
whom he knew. He said that Sergeant Edward Israel, of the
Si<''nal Corps, the astronomer of the party, was very highly
esteemed in his home at Kala:nazoo, Michigan, and was
looked upon by his fellow-townsmen as a man of whom bright
thin<ys were expected. Mr. Danenhower saw Israel's widowed
mother last winter, when she had about given up hope of
seeing her son again. Of Second Lieutenant Frederick W.
Kislingbury, Lieutenant Danenhower said that he nad ren-
dered important service during the war as a volunteer, and
was afterward appointed to the regular army. Kislingbury
was from Rochester, New York, and left two children.

In further conversation the lieutenant said : " In September
last Professor Joseph Lockwood, of the navy, now on the
retired list, advocated the plan of sending a * forlorn hope '
expedition of relief after Greely. The scheme was deemed
impracticable. From the evidence now before us we know
that if a vessel had been able to get to Cape York at that
time it would have reached Cape Sabine, for the channel was
so open that Greely's party could not get from Sabine to Lit-
tleton Island, having abandoned their boats. The condition
of the ice at that season in Melville Bay is not known. It is
almost impossible for a ship to work through the bay in the
darkness of the polar nights. It must be remembered that
this expedition had the advantage of continuous daylight.

" I have always said, in reply to questions that have been
put to me, that some of the Greely party would be found
alive. I did not think, however, that Commander Schley
would reach them before the middle of July. They must
have sustained themselves wonderfully for nine months. Sir
John Franklin's party and DeLong's party also endured ter-
rible privations and sufferings for extraordinary lengths of
time."

Lieutenant Danenhower was asked as to the possible
causes of Greely's mishap. " I do not hesitate to express the
opinion," he replied, "that Greely was sent too far north.
There are eleven stations up there, but Greely was thrust
some ten degrees farther north than some of the others.
Point Barrow, for instance, is in 72° north, while Greely had
to go up to 82°. He would not have been ordered up there
had it not been for English reports. The International Con-
gress decided thut Greely was too high up."

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478

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

As to the benefits of Greely's search and polar expeditions
generally, the explorer said : " No doubt Greely has a series
of valuable observations, as such, but it is not at all certain
that deductions of great value will be made from them. As
far as I can see from study and experience, nothing of great
value has been obtained from meteorological observations in
the polar regions, and nothing is likely to be. I think there
are much better fields for exploration and scientific work.
The statement is made by scientists that the most favorable
stations for meteorological observations are in the polar and
equatorial regions — the extremes. The last Congress pro-
posed to establish eleven stations within the Arctic circle, but
I have heard of no station near the Equator. The worlj -
possibly excepting the Germans — is tired of polar expeditions,
anyhow. I believe that they should cease until some special
means of locomotion, such as air-machines, are devised.
That may sound strangely, but I say it seriously. They are
of no use as weather stations, because they cannot take a
long enough series of observations and cannot be sufficiendy
numerous."

One of the most delighted men about the Navy Yard was
Quartermaster Nindemann, of the Jeannette expedition. He
was at work in the rigging loft of the yard when approached,
and opened a conversation on the Greely trip. It was a topic
on which the man had talked so much that he at once started
off on an interesting discussion of the subject. When asked
whether in his opinion the Greely party would be found he at
once said : " Yes. I feel confident that some of them will be
found alive. They may be on their way drifting southward,
perhaps in Lady Franklin Bay, and it would not have been
impossible for them to drift to Littleton Island." Nindemann
who has seen so much service in the Arctic reorion crave an in-
teresting account of various hardships through which he and
others had passed, while floating along on the ice. He was
trying to show how it was possible for the Greely party to get
along on the ice, for he had not yet been informed of the re-
ceipt of news about the rescue. He said :

" When the survivors of the Polaris expedition were picked
up in the ice in April, 1873, ^ ^^s one of them. We had
drifted 196 days. It stands to reason that the Greely boys,
who were better supplied than we, ought to stand as good a
chance at least. We had a tough time of it. Nineteen of us

CONCLUSION.

479

were blown off on the Ice. Fourteen were left on the ship.
We had only a quarter of a pound of bread and meat a day
per man, and for the last twenty days before the Tigress
picked us up we had only two crackers a day. Once in a
while we captured a seal, but that was very seldom. Oh, I
think the Greely party will come out all right."

The writer thought it but fair then to inform the hearty-
looking sailor that he had formed a correct opinion of tlie
case, and that the despatch from St. John's told of the rescue
of a certain number of the party. He stood and looked half
in doubt, half fearing that there was but an attempt at a very
ill-considered joke; and then seeing that the writer was the
bearer of really true information, he seized his hand with zeal
and a great amount of pressure, and said: "Well, thank God
for that! And the Bear party found them, did it? I can't
say I am surprised, for I have been looking for it, and yet you
have shaken me all up. I had it pretty straight, didn't I?
It's'mighty good news for some folks, but think of the poor
fellows who have dropped out. There'll be a sad ending to
a long waiting for their friends."

Serjeants Brainard and Loner and Private Connell, of the
Greely Arctic expedition, who were exhibiting for some days
at the Dime Museum at Cleveland, Ohio, were shown tele-
grams from Washington stating that an army officer, who had
seen the diaries of the expedition, says the survivors when
found were in two parties, one headed by Brainard and the
other by Long, living separately as two tribes, and refusing to
speak to one another ; that Greely was an invalid the last few
months, and the "party headed by Brainard cared for him like
a child ; that the stealing of rations was a common practice ;
that hunters sent out for birds concealed them for them-
selves.

All of these statements Brainard, Long, and Connell deny
emphatically, and insist that the party was not divided, but
say that while five slept in the wall-tent Brainard and Long
slept together under the fly of the tent because the interior
was not large enough for all. Sergeant Brainard says Lieu-
tenant Greely walked out every day, and was able and com-
petent to command the party, which he did throughout.

All agree that nobody except Henry was shot. A special
report of the same army officer says that Brainard when
found was much stronger than the rest ; that when he came

:V'im

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.h^*

480

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

aboard great surprise was expressed at it; that when asked
why such was the case he said : " Oh, I could eat tlie stuff aiul
digest it, but the others coukhi't;" that when some one of the
rescuing party remarked upon the absence of Dr. Pavy's
body and expressed wonder as to what became of it, Hrainavd
said: " He is all gone. I finished the last of him just bt^forc
you arrived."

This report being shown Brainard, he said : " i don't kiKnv
who the army officer is, but whoever he may be he is a slan-
derer. I was not the strongest of the party, and, moreover,
I was not on the Bear, but came home on the Thetis. Tlu;
story is a lie out of whole cloth." Sergeant Long and Pri-
vate Council corroborated this denial.

Commander Schley, when asked about the condition of the
Greely party when found, said:

" I am very glad indeed to be here. Our voyage was (|uite
a sailing away from the joyous, sunny, pleasant world that we
are accustomed to. I did not suffer from the effects of the
exposure to any great extent. I had no uncertainty or anx-
iety to prey upon my mind. I was absolutely certain of wha.
I had to do, ready for any emergency, prepared for the worst
■or the best, and had the utmost confidence in my men. My
only regret was that it was not a year earlier. The voyage
was, of course, one of peril and discomfort, but I did not lose
or gain a pound's weight, and am in very good health. The
whole voyage was one of sensational scenes and incidents,
perilous moments, furious storms, narrow escapes, etc., but
there was nothing to compare with the terrible impressive-
ness of the hour of rescue. The only tears I have shed for
many a year were shed on that memorable occasion, and there
was not a man who could retain his composure. The scene
was inexpressibly horrible and thrilling. A little camp of
survivors, looking actually like skeletons, and nearly all of
whom were in the last stages of starvation, while one at least,
Connell, was actually in the very agony of death, doomed to
die within an hour if nourishment had not been at hand, and
unconscious for two days afterward that he had been saved.
The little camp, desolate, filthy, barren, on an ice-bound coast,
with the long row of graves that told their story with awful
pathos — the first grave made with all the care and skill that a
village sexton could have bestowed upon it ; the second less
carefully constructed ; the third more narrow and shallow, and

CONCLUSION.

481

iition of the

the others showing wanin<( strength and failing energy, until
tlie last body that had just been dragged out of sight of the
camp, and left to the mercy of wind and storm uncovered, be-
cause no one could lift the earth or ice with which to cover
him. The picture was a terrible one indeed, and the days
immediately following were scarcely less terrible. Greely,
and those of his party who were rescued, were bathed in the
cabin. They were perfect skeletons wrapped in skin. Iwery
bone was clearly visible. Hips and ribs were frightfully
prominent. Those men were hungry every five minutes;
ravenous is an inadequate word."

"When will your report be made?"

"It will go to Secretary Chandler within ten days, describ-
ine^ every tUtail of the expedition from its inception to its
abandonment, illustrated by 300 instantaneous photographs
and covering 250 pages."

"What will it tell about cannibalism?"

"Nothing whatever. The discovery of the living and the
dead will be accurately described, the mutilation of the bodies,
etc., but no conclusions will be drawn. I really know nothing
about it, as I have repeatedly said, and it is not my business.
The trouble has been that top much has been said. Lieuten-
ant Greely, however, has very discreedy kept quiet, and will,
doubdess, explain everything in due time. At the time of his
rescue Greely was the weakest physically and strongest men-
tally of the entire party. I have seen the statements about
dissensions in the party, and that Long and Brainard headed
separate parties at the time of the rescue. I saw nothing to
indicate this, and know nothing about it. Without defendinsf
Lieutenant Greely at all, I should not make up my mind
against him in any particular before his official report has been
made. I can see no sense in the desire to exhume Private
Henry's remains. I have officially stated that his body was
one of those mutilated, and nothing more could be accom-
plished by its disinterment."

Before sections F, G and H of the British Association for
the Advancement of Science on September 3d, 1884, Lieuten-
ant Greely amid unbounded enthusiasm was called on by
Sir Henry Lefroy, the presiding officer, who said that the
British Association felt honored in being able to honor Lieu-
tenant Greely as the brave explorer who had surpassed the
brilliant achievements of a glorious line of predecessors, and

3«

til

482

AlUnir I'Xl'I.OKAllONS.

If J 1 ■-

luul hcru HWCcvssWA in \\\r lionoraMo tlrsirr (o plant lii-;
national llajj nearest to the North Pole, tluis rxceedinj. i||r.
noblest elloils cwv nia«le. I\< Icninj; to tlu' persistcni <• o|
pnrpose shown l>v lienlenanl ( ireely's party in hiiniMnj; huk
tlu* pendnhnn apparatus, he icniaikr\{ that ()wn< was n<iiiiin|.
nol>l(M- in lh(^ annals ol si ientilie heroism than the tleleiinin.i
tion o\ these hnni;ry men lo dra^ the ( umhersoine box aloiii-
lluMi weary way.

It was Inlly two nn'miles alter risin^j Ix'lore I ,ient«ii;int
lire(>l\' eonM spe.\k. so iMcat was th<^ onlhnrst ol entluisi.i ,in
whii ii iM(>et(«il him. In intnuhu injt; his papers he k niaiK((|
that he was smpriseil to learn that the jMonnd (hil iu\\ ih.iw
lowtM- at l.i(nn<Miant Uay's station, vvhiih was ten iIcj-k^s
larther sonlh th.m his own, where the ground thawed lo ,[
mneh i;re.il<M- depth — namely, twenty to thirty inehes. In w.
!^ ad lo an op< n polar sea he dilVtMCMl Irom Lieutenant K.iy.
lie tlivl not heltevc^ lluMc was a navii^aMe sea at the Pole, hut
he was oi l\w opinit)n that there was open water somewlu ic
alH>ut. l.ieulen.ml (licely's pap(>r, which was entitled "l\c
e<M\t I )iseoveri(>s in Niirthern lireenlainl and in Cirinnell Laiul,"
was as (ollows :

"The j;('<\ui;vphiial work of the Lady I'ranklin itay Lxpctlj-
tion covers nearly three decrees ol latitude and over lotiy
ilei;rees ol loni^itudi^. Starting Irom latituile .Si" /\,\' ,iiul
loutjitude S.p ,)s'. I.ituitenant Lockwotid reached, May iSlh,
1SS2. tMi the noilh eoast of ( Ireenland, latitud<' S3'' 24' and
loni;ilude 40'' 40'. I'rom the same slartini; point he reaehcd
to the southwest, in May, 1SS3, (Ireely I'iord, an inlet ol tiio
West<M'n Polar ("^eean, latitude So" 4S' ami longitude 7S" 2()\
This journey to the northward resulted in the addition to etii
charts ot" a new coast line ol nearly \Oi) miles beyond tlu-
larthest pc^nt seen by Lieutenant Heaumont, R, N. It also
carricil lireenland over lour hundretl miles northward, .uiviiiij
that continent a much greater extension in that direction than
it hat! oenorally been cr<Hliteil with. The vegetation rescmhlctl
closely that ol" Cirinnell I .and. Amon*^ the specimens brouj^ht
back the .Arctic poi>i)y and several saxilVau'es were identilicd.
About the ejohty-third parallel traces ol* the polar bear, len)
niins:^ and Arctic lox were .seen, anil a hare and ptarmiLjan
wore killed. Lieutenant Lockwood and myself journeyal
across Grinnell Land and examined into its physical comli-
tion, discovering what may have been hitherto unsuspected,

roN» i.i's?nN.

483

lli.il brlwrcn tlic Ikm*!-; «ir An licr and (infly I'innlfi, a dis-
t;in< '' olsoiiic scvfiily miU";, slrd* lifi iUr pcrpriulir (ilar (ront
I an inunriisc Uf <aj» wlii» li lolluw'. < losfly (rnin •asl: la west

(lie ri;;hly (irst paiallcl. I lir avraj^c licijdtl was ttol Irns

ihan I S'>

irrl.

)(' ni)(

lulr.t
il

ions »»r iIk! smlac f nl iIh* icf < on-

(onncd «li>'i''ly to llu- < nnli}Mnati'Mi ol llif roiMilry, sci thai ihr
varialion'i in llir lln« kncss m( ihr i( c (ap wrrr inronsidfiahlf,
III alxMit sixty nnl«s l»m Iwn pKnes wc-n- lonnd wli'-ir llu:
slope .nid spa( r were so tnndili(-d as [<> render an ascent of
llie ire possible. This i( c < ap, exlendin;; soiilliward, covers
(Iriniiell l.andalniosi «nlirely Ironi the eiflity Insl parallel to
||,iv<"' •*^"»""' '^'"1 lioni Kennedy ( hannel weslward to ( ireely
I'joid in the polar orean. hi ( onnet lion with the line ol per-
ncliial snow I may say that on IVJonnt Arthur it was not fiir

Iroin .^.S<)o

leet ahove th«' sea. l'r(Mn l>aroinelri( al ineasiire-

mcnls it appeared that die (rest of ( irinnell Land was o( ahont
2,500 leet elevation in Iront ol tin- sonthern ice cap and ;j,<kx>

led near Monn

It Art

iiir

Lieiilenant (irerl' was lre<|nently applauded and sat down
.(mill expressions olt!;.- liveliest satisT.K tion. 1 1(! spoke vrry
plainly, and the only elfei t of his rf:c(;nt (^xposnrr: visible
was ihe nervousness noticealile by a Ihish on his fa( f.

Admiral Sir i'aasimis ( )inmanney, Koyal Navy, delivered
an address and expressed his belief that Lientr-nant (ireely's
searches will be prodndive of very imporlant results.

Lieutenant (ireely, rising to reply, remarkr-d that hr. was
extremely (lattered at his recctption and at an indorsement
from such eminent men as had spoken. I |e took occasion to
say that a fact had surprised him. it was the discovery that
when the tide was (lowinj^ from the North I'ole it was found
by hi . observations that the wat(;r was warmer than when
(lowinir in the opposit(! direction, lie took the trouble to
have prepan^d an elaborate; set of observations showin^^ this
woinK-rhil phenomenon, which would eventually be published.
To him these; peculiarities were unexplainabh;, and he hoped
that llu! observations would hr. studied by his liearers, and
souk; explanation found in rcL^ard to the tluirmometric
observations of tlu; expedition. I Je r(;marked that the mean
temperature for the year of the hourly observations was 5'^
below zero, which justihed him in spy'ng his station was the
coldest point of earth ever reached.

The Arctic steamer Lock Garry, as she lay at the Brooklyn

(' ii

484

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

r Mr ; 'i

I <t J It', J ' 1

■- ' if' '

Navy Yard shortly after her arrival, looked dirty aiui d-.
sertcd. The only si<^n of life on her deck was a larijjc, siion.
tailed, black-haired dog, the property of Ensijjn Chanilxis.
This animal looked more like a bear than a dog and paced
restlessly up and down the deck, occasionally stopping to
sniff the air, as tiiouijh not satisfied with its surroundiPL'^s,

Within the vessel the scene was changed. Cooks were
rushing hither and tliither preparing for dinner, whiKi tlio
officers and crew lounged about discussing Arctic expeditions,
the weather and dieir prospects for returning to Dundeo,
Scotland, where they all belong, and where the Loch Garry
is owned. Among them were Captain R. Jones, of the Loch
Garry, and Chief Officer Campbell and Lieutenant Ri-anuy,
who brought the Thetis to this port from Dundee. All are
Scotchmen. Ensign Chambers, of the navy, was not on board,
having left the vessel a few hours previous to visii; friends
in the city. When questioned in relation to the expedition
the Dundee men declared that they had been ordered to
" keep their mouths close " and " leave the talking to the
American authorities."

" Ensign Chambers has all there is," said one of the officers,
"and he will tell you what he pleases of the expedition."

'• Is there anything about it which he will not tell ? "
was asked.

" Oh, no. Commander Schley's expedition was a success,
but it would not have been if the whalers had not shown the
relief vessels along. Why, at one time, while on the way to
Disko, the vessels encountered some heavy ice floes, which
the Thetis began trying to blast with torpedoes. Commander
Schley said the ice was impassable, and while discussing the
situation along came a little whaler and crashed throufdi the
barrier. Before the commander recovered from his astonish-
ment the whaler was almost out of sight.

" I don't believe Ensign Chambers will tell you how the
Lock Garry was fitted out. We were promised heavy furs,
boots, hats, gloves and snow-glasses and other things to fight
the cold and ice. All we got were two wheelbarrows for
carting coal and two ice-anchors. Our little vessel, with her
three-inch plates and no fortifications inside, was utilized to
break up the ice for the relief vessels on many occasions.
The latter vessels were all as strong inside as iron could make
them. Besides all that Lieutenant Greely and his party were

CONCLUSION.

485

not as friendly to Commancl(;r Schley as people rescued under
such circumstances trcnerally are."

" What was the difficulty ? "

"I don't understand it exactly, but Greely thought that
;irmy men instead of navy men should have been sent to him,
and a coldness between the rescued and the rescuers has
sprung up. The fact of the matter is Greely would have
stood a small chance of being rescued had the expedition
been composed of other than navy men. If there had been
any sailors on the Proteus expedition that vessel never would
have been lost. Army people ought never to have been sent
up in the Arctic regions. If the United States had fitted out
a whaler with whaling men, Greely would have been rescued
a year ago."

"Wliat is thought of Greely's work?"

"He has donr, a deal of good work, but he is solely to
blame for the loss of the nineteen men of his party. In
St. John's, Newfoundland, there was much talk against him.
The relatives of those lost men will have an investigation
before long, and the public will know of matters that the au-
thorities are endeavoring to keep quiet. Greely did well, for
a soldier, until he struck that floating cake of ice; then he
began to show his weakness. There he stayed and allowed
his men to die off like sheep. The season was in his favor,
and he could easily have reached Litdeton Island, where
ti\ere were provisions enough for ten months or more. He
was only twenty-five miles south of that island, and he could
have made the distance in less than two days. He allowed
one poor fellow to start out alone, while twenty-five able men
lay around and starved to death. A combined movement
would have saved them all. They were afraid of the water,
that's all, and when they got on the ice they wouldn't move.
Instead of using the boats, which were intended for the pur-
pose of reaching supply stations by water, they chopp(;d th(;m
up for fuel. Ninety miles to the south of them was the Gary
Islands, where they could have found food and shelter ior time
eternal. They could have lived with the natives, and would
have been rescued by whalers had they endeavored to go
south, instead of losing all heart and lying down to die.
They had only to drag their boats over ice here and there to
reach Litdeton Island, and it would have been less difficult to ^
get to the Carys.

486

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

0§ ' 1

Pl'v'* ill 'i . ^

" The men on the Proteus suffered greater harclsliips h^.
tween the time their ship was lost and the time of tiieir rescue
than Greely and his party would liave had to endure had they
endeavored to reach either of the isles. Greely's party look
the most barren place in the Arolic regions to die, when di( y
could have reached a better spot and lived. The living an
all heroes, but justice should be done to the dead, and Circfly
will have some hard questions to answer in a short time. I Ic
has not told a connected story yet. The men on the Thetis
declared they could not understand his tale. They are guard
ing him closely for fear some person may get hold of him and
something may come out.

" The Alert was a hindrance to the expedition. She is a
helpless old tub, and it took most of our time, after June 25th,
to look after her. One good vessel with men who know the
Arctic regions on board would have rescued Greely long a^j^o,
and the United States government woidd have been savtil a
sight of money."

A naval officer, who was on board one of the. Greely relief
vessels, on September 5th said:

" I saw the interviews with an officer, and I think a great
injustice is being done to Sergeant Brainard. One look at
that man would be sufficient to satisfy you that the statements
made regarding him are untrue, and Brainard is right in
denying them. In the first place, he did not board the Bear
until several weeks after the party was rescued. Neither was
he the strongest man of the party."

"Who was?" asked the writer.

"Why, Long was decidedly the strongest. He met the
rescuing party and was able to walk when taken aboard of
the Bear, while Brainard had to be carried."

"Perhaps Brainard's name has been confused with Long's?"
was suggested.

" That may be," was the reply, " for I fancy that Long would
be much more likely to say such things than Brainard. Why,
Brainard was practically the head of the expedition after
Greely became incapacitated for duty, and he showed himself
possessed .of ability far above his station. Long was the
hunter for the party, and he was a dead shot. There is no
doubt in my mind that he kept more than his share of the
game killed. When he met the rescuing party his mouth
was all bloody, and when, a little later, the winter camp was

CONCLUSION.

4S7

rclships !)(;-

lu;ir r(;snic

•c had ihry

party took

when ilicy

livinjjj arc

and (in'dy

: time. \\v

I the '1 hctis

>^are guard -

1 of him atul

1. She is a
r June 25th,
ho know tlie
ily long a<][o,
een saved u

Greely relief

hink a great
One look at

le statements

is right in

rd the Bear

Neither was

He met the
In aboard of

fith Long's?"

Long would
linard". Why,
Sedition after
Dwed himself

)ng was the
There is no

share of the
ty his mouth
Iter camp \vas

visited by two officers and Ice-pilot Norman, the latter picked
up the bodies of two eider ducks recently killed, and evidently
pkiced tiiere for safe-keeping."

"Was there cannibalism ?"

"Why, of course there was; but I believe Grecly didn't
know of it, and if lie ate human flesh himself he didn't know

it."

"Was the subject ever mentioned?"

" Not that I know of. Wiien it was announced that the
bodies were to bt; taken aboard ship Greely urged that they
be left where they were buried. Lock wood, he said, particu-
larly requested it. That was all right, for Lock wood's body
was not mutilated. Brainard didn't tell of any cannibalism,
you can rest assured of that. I don't think any of the diaries
which are preserved mention it, but it is supposed that
Schneider's diary, which was lost, made some reference to it
It was either picked up and secreted by one of the men, or
was thrown overboard with Greely's sleeping-bag by mistake.
When the diaries are published, Lieutenant Lockwood's will
he far the most interesting. It is very full and written en-
tirely in shorthand, and nobody has yet read it. The mutila-
tion of the bodies was done by a skilful hand, and there is no
doubt but that the hospital steward used the knife after the
decease of Dr. Pavy."

" Did you see any signs of a division in the party ? " was
asked.

"No, sir; and that is another mistake. When the surviv-
ors were found they were all under one tent ; that is, all were
camped in the tent but three, who were just outside a flap of
the tent. Even Lieutenants Greely and Lockwood had no
serious misunderstanding up to the time the boats were
abandoned.

"The criticisms upon Greely's lack of discipline are unwar-
ranted. He said that he would take no initiative steps against
anybody, and would wait until attacked, and although he is no
particular friend of mine I know that he will come out ahead.
He has never said a word against Hazen, but he has criticised
Garlington severely for not examining the cache of. provisions
at Payer Harbor as directed. If he had done that and left a
fresh supply, instead of the spoiled rations that were there,
probably many more of the party would have been able to
pull through. Greely's work was remarkable. He brought

ill

iir

^;i

;

' r ?

n >

.k ' :.'

^^j'i'mmui

488

AUCIIC i;xri, ORATIONS.

every man to the place lie saiil he Aoiild two days before the
time fixi'd, where he had eviry leisoii to expect assistanct.-.
He must have exercised discipline or he never coulil have
done it.

"At Cape Sabine Dr. Pavy and one of the men canu; imo
his tent and insisted upon an immediate division of the sii|)-
plies on hand. Greely emphatically refused, and when iIk y
further insisted he ordered them out of die teiU, weak as I)c
was, threatening^ to shoot them on the spot if they did not uo,
and they went. Iwery officer of the relief expedition has ex
pressed admiration for Greely's pluck and manaijemcnt, and
if there is a fiijht about the matter you may rest assureil that
Greely will hold his own. He is no fool. He will lindouhi-
edly be promoted unless there is stronir oi)position in h\<^\\
quarters. But that story about Hrainard I will bet anylhinn
is not true. If he had gone quietly to his home on a larin
they couldn't help making him a lieutenant. He deserve s it
if ever a man did. Long might have been the man meant,
but not Brainard."

*' I see," continued the officer, " that some on(t is again quoted
as saying that all the survivors were taken aboard tht; Hear,
and that the Thetis was not present. That's a mistake. 1
will tell you just how it was. The Thetis arrived at Littleton
Island first on the 2 2d of June, and the Bear arrived about
2.30 in the afternoon. Both vessels started for Payer
Harbor tocrether. The Thetis arrived first and was made last
to an ice-floe. Captain Schley immediately sent out two
search parties under Lieutenant Taunt and Ensign Harlow,
and another was sent out by the Bear as soon as she arrived.
Lieutenant Taunt's party found the records of the Greely
party off top of Brevoort Island, and returned to the Thetis
with them. Those records told where the survivors were
camped. The steam-launch of the Thetis was broken, so that
of the Bear was sent with people from bcdi ships to the
camp, which was only about four miles distant. The Hear
not being fastened as was the Thetis, was boarded by Caj)tain
Schley and steamed for Cape Sabine, and the Thetis remained,
sounding her whistles for the search parties to return, wliicli
was the signal heard by the Greely party in camp. The
Thetis picked up the other two search parties, Harlow hav-
ing found the instruments in another cache, and arrived at
Camp Clay about ten minutes after the Bear. Boats, officers,

CONCLUSION.

4R9

)cfor(^ the

.ssisiami;.
)uld have

camt* itUo
r lh(^ suji-
.vlicn thiy
■cak as In-
lid not 1^0,
on has ex
•mcnt, and
isiin'd ihiit
1 r,n{h)iil)t-
on in h'\'^\\
It anytliiiv^
on a liuiu
tUsi;rv(s it
nan nn^ant,

gain quoted
-d thi; Ucar.
I mistake. I
at LittU^ton
rived ahout
for l'ay<r
IS made last
nt out two
ign Harknv,
she arrived,
the Gret'ly
the Thetis
vivors were
ken, so ihiit
ihips to the
The Bear
I by Captain
is remaiiu'd,
leturn, wbicb

[Camp. ll^'^

arlow hav-

arrived at

ats, officers,

I r

and men were immediately sent asliorc to render assistanet
riirccof the survivors w<;re taken on board the liear — I -on
lUison, and Fredericks. The four other survivors and all tin
d(;ad bodies were taken on board the Thetis. Six ot the
hodies were transferred to the Bear n<rxt day. So you sec
both vessels were present at th(' rescut*. and Hrainard was
rii^dit in denyinjj^ that he was taken aboard tlie Hear. There
have been lots of mistakes published in this connection, but I
have given you the correct story, as you will see when Captain
Schley's report is made public."

The report of Commodore Winfield Scott Schley of the
expedition under his command for the relief of the Greely
party was submitted to the Secretary of the Navy during the
latter part of the month of October, 1884. It cites the orders
under which the expedition was organized, and then enters
upon a graphic narrative of the events of the voyage.

Harly on the morning of June 7th the ships Thetis and
Bear reached Littell Island, which locality Commodore Schley
terms a desired outpost for advance to the more perilous
dangers of Melville Bay. Violent gales, snow-storms, and
dense fog now prevailed, delaying farther progress; but on
the morning of June iith, when open water had been ob-
served through rifts in the fog to the northwest, the lines were
cast off and the voyage was resumed.

The usual perils of Arctic navigation were experienced
upon the northward journey from this point. Constant and
anxious watch was kept for opportunities to make headway.
Mile by mile a way was forced around obstructions and
through dangerous and tortuous leads until, on the morning
of June 1 8th, the neighborhood of Cape York was reached.
Here communication was opened with the natives, but no
tidings of Greely's party could be obtained. Littleton Island
was reached on the 21st of June, up to which time nothing
had been heard of the objects of the search. The passage
across to Payer Harbor was made on the afternoon of the
22d, during a heavy gale, and the vessels were moved to the
Ice foot with ice anchors. Parties were started at once to
visit the cairns and caches at this point, in order that no
opportunity should be lost to push northward, if no tidings
of Greely were to be found. Some cheers were heard above
the roaring winds by those on shipboard, but could not be
located accurately. In a few minutes Seaman Yewell made

■ ?

' k

I I t

imi'-i

i '!

« .

:.i

M,,

'!,.'»

490

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

his appearance, almost out of breath, and reported that
Greely and his party were at Cape Sabine. He brought and
delivered to Commodore Schley records found by Lieutenant
Taunt in a cairn on Brevoort Island. The records had been,
chiefly prepared by Lieutenant Greely in person, and were
found to bear dates of eight and nine months previous. The
latest paper, written Sunday, October 21st, 1883, was as
follows :

" My party is now permanently in camp on the west side
of a small neck of land which connects the wreck Cache Cove
or Bay, and the one to its west. Distant about equally from
Cape Sabine and Cocked Hat Island. All well."

Shordy after Yewell's arrival. Ensign Harlow signalled
from Sialknecht Island : " Send five men. I have found all
Greely's records, instruments, etc."

Lieutenant Colwell was now instructed to proceed to the
wreck Camp Cache, and if one of the party were alive, to in-
form them that their relief was at hand. Commodore Schley
followed in the Bear, leaving the Thetis, with instructions to
pick up the remaining searching parties, and then follow the
Bear.

As the steam-cutter reached the wreck Camp Cache, Lieu-
tenant Colwell and ice-masters Ash and Norman discovered
Sergeant Long reclining on the rocks. Taking him into the
cutter, and learning from him the location of the camp, they
went to it and announced to Lieutenant Greely the coming
of relief. Ice-master Norman returned to the steamer cutter
from the camp, and took Long off at once to the Bear. Long
was too weak to get on board himself, and was carried up the
side by the crew and placed on a chair in the saloon. Full
particulars having been learned from him, in a few moments
Commodore Schley, with Lieutenant Emory, Ensign Rey-
nolds, Dr. Ames, and several of the crew of the Bear, went
ashore, and reached Greely's camp about 9 p. m. Lieutenant
Colwell now reported that he found the tent covering partly
blown down upon them, and that he had partially raised it
with the assistance of Ash and Norman, and had given the
survivors spme milk and beef exiiact.

Signal was made to the Thetis to s ;nd more officers and
men with Ensign Harlow, aid the photographic instruments;
also to send clothing, blankets, and stretchers. To this signal
Chief Engineer Melville, Dr. Green, Lieutenant Tarrent, Lieu-

\i :

CONCLUSION,

491

tenant Lemley, and Ensign Harlow, of the Th tis, and Lieu-
tenant Usher, of the Bea •, responded. Tiiesc officers were
assigned various duties in connection with the removal of the
jiving and the dead, their effects, etc. The doctors were left
to administer stimulants to Lieutenant Greely, Sergeant Lli-
son, Sergeant Brainard, Hospital Steward Biederbeck, Ser-
.•^eant Fredericks, and Private Connell, who were found alive
in this wretched tent. Ensign Harlow photographed the
tent, the burying-ground on the ridge, and the ice foot near
by. The camp was located nearly midway between Cocked
Hat Island and Cape Sabine. It was about seventy-five feet
from the beach, on a slight elevation, and protected by high
mountains to the southwa d. All the survivors except Long
were found in the tent, but Brainard, Biederbeck, and Fred-
ericks subsequently emerged and insisted that they were
strong enough to walk to the boat. It required but a short
time to demonstrate their mistake, and they, with the others,
were carried upon stretchers.

By 1 1 P. M. the survivors were so far strengthen(>d by
stimulants that all were removed to the ships — Lieutenant
Greely, Sergeant Brainard, Hospital Steward Biederbeck, and
Private Connell to the Thetis; Sergeants Fredericks and Eli-
son to the bear. The gale which had blown all day increased
to a hurricane during the night. Work with boats, therefore,
was both difficult and dangerous. With much difficulty the
ships were kept head to the wind. The frequent squalls
often drove them ofif broadside too, and while in such posi-
tion, without sail, their rails would be driven almost into the
water. Although the shore was distant at times hardly one
hundred feet, the boats would nearly swamp in traversing
that short distance. The work of exhuming the bodies of the
d(;ad for transportation to the United States was carried on
under the orders of Lieutenant Emory, and so energetically
and promptly performed that the ships were able to start for
Payer Harbor at four o'clock on the morning of June 23d.

Commodore Schley describes as follows the impressive
scene inside Greely's tent:

"Lieutenant Greely was found in his sleeping-bag, his
body inclined forward and head resting upon his left hand.
The Book of Common Prayer was open and held in his right
hand. He appeared to be reading prayers to Private Con-
nell, whose condition was most desperates and critical. He

!t1''||

fit

I' '

Pi !

492

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

< 'ij

was cold to the waist, all sensations of hunger gone, was
speechless and almost breathless ; his eyes were fixed and
glassy ; indeed, his weakness was such that it was with diffi-
culty he swallowed the stimulants given him by Drs. Green,
and Ames ; his jaws had dropped, his heart was barely pul-
sating, and his body temperature very low.

"This tender scene of a helpless, almost famished officer
consoling a dying companion was in itself one that brought
tears to the eyes of the s<-rongest and stoutest of those who
stood about them on the merciful errand of relief. Sergeants
Brainard and Fredericks, and Hospital Steward Biederbeck
were extremely weak and hardly able to stand ; they were no
longer able to venture away from their camp to seek food nor
to prepare their simple diet of boiled seal-skin, nor to collect
lichens, nor to catch shrimps, upon which they had to depend
to a great extent to sustain life. Their faces, hands and limbs
were swollen to such an extent that they could not be recog-
nized. This indicated that the entire party had but a short
lease of life, probably not more than forty-eight hours at the
most. This fact was recognized by them all, and had come
to them from their experience during that long and desolate
winter in watching their dying companions, as one after an-
other passed away from amongst them forever.

"Poor Sergeant Elison was found in his sleeping-bag,
where he had lain helpless and hopeless for months, with
hands and feet frozen off. Strapped to one of the stumps
was found a spoon which some companion had secured there
to enable him to feed himself. His physical condiiion other-
wise appeared to be the best of any of the survivor- and this
may be attributed to the fact that each of his comj^^. i loiis had
doled out to him from their small allowance of food some-
thing to help him, on account of his complete helplessness to
add anything to his own by hunting about the rocks for
lichens or catching shrimps. He suffered no waste of
strength by exertion incident thereto. This care of Elison
was such as only brave and generous men, suffering villi
each other under the most desperate circumstances, could
think of.

" Sergeaiit Long was very much reduced, though in some-
what better condition than some of the others. His office of
hunter for the starving party had made it necessary to in-
crease slightly his pittance of food to maintain his strength,

CONCLUSION.

493

that he might continue the battle for food and life to the help-
less. In this case, however, the effect of this continued effort
had told its story in his wasted form. Shorter and shorter
journeys were made in good weather, while in the frequent
bad weather of that region his strength was so much im-
paired, that when the joyful signal was heard, he had only
enough left to stagger out to the rocks overlooking the water
to see if the signal heard had proceeded from ships in sight.
His first visit was a bitter disappointment, as he saw nothing.
A second visit, fifteen minutes later, brought him within fifty
yards of the Bear's steam-cutter, and in view of the relief-
ships coming around Cape Sabine. When the steam-cutter
ran into the beach where Long was seen, he rolled down the
ice-covered cliffs and was taken into the cutter. He informed
Lieutenant Colwell that the location of the camp was just
over the cliff. In the case of Sergeant Elison, the medical
officers were fearful from the first that his chances of life were
very small. As soon as healthful food was available, and the
digestive functions should be re-established fully, the health-
ful round of blood circulation would becfin its distribution of
new life to the injured parts, and inflammation would natu-
rally occur. If Elison's strength should increase more rapidly
than the inflammation, the amputation of the injured parts
would perhaps save his life. Several days after his rescue,
June 28th, Dr. Green reported that Elison was threatened
with congestion of the brain. The symptoms i '"'^reased
rapidly until the poor fellow lost his reason.

"At Godhavn his condition was so critical that the surgeon
of the expedition, after consultation, determined to amputate
both feet above the ankle, as the only chance of life left the
sufferer. Disease, however, triumphed, and amid the bleak
scenes that had surrounded him for three years, in his heroic
sacrifice, and within the desolate solitude of that region of ever-
lasting ice and snow, surrounded by his sorrowing comrades,
he passed away abojt 3 a. m. of July 7th, three days after the
amputation.

"Lieutenant Greely was physically the weakest but mentally
the most vigorous of his party. He had lain in his sleeping-
bag for weeks on account of his gradually failing strength.
He was unable to stand alone for any length of time, and was
almost helpless except in a sitting posture; all pangs of
hunger had ceased ; his appearance was wild ; his hair was

1^1

lil

\ihii

! (

494

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

long and unkempt ; his face and hands were covered with
sooty black dirt ; his body was scantily covered with worn-
out clothes ; his form was wasted ; his joints were swollen
and his eyes were sunken.

"The first inquiry was if they were not Englishmen, but
when he was told that we were his own countrymen, he
paused for a moment as if reflecting, then said: 'And 1 am
glad to see you.'

"The condition of his camp was in keeping with the scene
inside the tent, desperate and desolate ; the bleak bareness
of the spot, over which the Arctic bird would not fly ; the
row of graves on a little ridge, loo feet away, with the pro-
truding heads and feet of those lately buried, a sad but silent
witness to the daily increasing weakness of the little band of
survivors ; the deserted winter-quarters in the hollow below,
with its broken wall, invaded by the water from the meltincr
snow and ice above it ; the dead bodies of two companions
stretched on the ice foot tha«- remained ; the wretched apology
for cooking utensils, improvised by them in their sore dis-
tress, hardly deserving the name ; the scattered and worn-out
clothes and sleeping-bags of the dead ; the abserxe of all food
save a few drops of boiled sealskin scraps ; the wild and weird
scene of snow, ice and glaciers overlooking and overhanging
this desolate camp, completed a picture as startling as it was
impressive. I hope never again in my life to look upon such
v/retchedness and such destitution. The picture was more
startling and more deeply pathetic than I had ever dreamed
could be possible. In beholding it I stood for a moment
almost unmanned, and then realized that if the expedition
had demonstrated any one thing more than another, it was
that an hour had its value to at least one of the party. Stouter
hearts than mine felt full of sorrow. Eyes that had not wept
for years were moistened with tears in the solemnity of that
precious hour in the lives of that heroic little band of sufferers,
until this moment so hopeless and helpless.

" The dead were buried on a ridge back of the camp, dis-
tant from it about forty yards. The bodies of Privates Henr)'
^ and Schneider were found on the ice- foot west of the camp,
distant fifty yards. In exhuming these bodies, one at a time
was taken up and wrapped in blankets. Tickets or tags of
canvas were sewed to them, marked in the order of exhum-
ing them, I, 2, 3, etc.

CONCLUSION.

495

"Lieutenant Emory drew a plot of this burying-ground,
with the nur:bv.rs of the graves marked in order of exhuming.
The plot was subsequently submitted to Sergeant Brainard,
who had superintended the burials. The names of the dead
bodies according to the number were marked on them. Their
identity was complete. The bodies were all carefully wrapped
up and stowed in one of the dories on board the Thetis. They
were then covered with ice and guarded until tar.ks could
be prepared to hold alcohol. This was done three days after-
ward, when six of the bodies were transferred to the Bear.
All the bodies were then placed in alcohol in the tanks and
carried to St. John's, N. F.

"At 1 1 A. M., June 23d, Lieutenant Emory, with the Bear,
was sent batk to the wreck to make another search of the
locality more extend^^d than that of the preceding day, and to
include the coast from the ice limit, half a mile west of the
camp, up to Cape Sabine. This search lasted several hours,
but added nothing to that made the previous day. At 5 p. m.
the Bear returned to Payer Harbor, having barely escaped the
crush of ice against the land in the vicinity of Cape Sabine.
At 6 p. M., June 23d, both ships sailed from Payer Harbor to
Littleton Island, which point they reached at 9.30 p. m.

" The preparation of the bodies of the dead for alcohol and
their condition is referred to as follows: The tanks having
been prepared by June 25th, the bodies of the dead were
transferred to them. Dr. Green, Chief Engineer Melville
and Ensign Harlow, of the Thetis; Dr. Ames, Lieutenant
Crosby and Lieutenant Col well, of the Bear, prepared the
bodies in the following manner : From each body the clothing
was removed. It was then wrapped in strips of cotton cloth
from head to foot backwards and forwards several times.
Cotton sheeting was then used to cover the whole, cut to fit
the form of the body. Wrapped in this way the body was
placed in the tanks and secured agaik^st movements from
ramming ice, or when rolling in the passage after leaving the
ice. This arrangement was temporary, and would not answer
when making the passage beyond St. John's.

"In preparing the bodies of the dead for transportation in
alcohol to St. John's it was found that six of them, Lieutenant
Kislingbury, Sergeants Jewell and Ralston, Privates Whistler,
Henry and Ellis, had been cut, and the fleshy parts removed
to a greater or less extent. All the other bodies were found

]

: Ii

496

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

I-'-' li

I'M

intact. When the bodies of the dead were exposed in pre«
paring them, the identification was found to be complete.
Some of them could be recognized by aid of a picture tai^en
with us from home. Others whose features had decayed
were identified by other characteristics. I am therefore
satisfied that no mistake was made in this important matter,
which so impressed us from the beginning."

Commodore Schley then recites incidents of the return to
St. John's. Records were deposited in the Nares cairn for
Commander Coffin, informing him of the result of the expedi-
tion, and ordering him to Upernavik, or Disko, where the
Thetis and Bear were to await his arrival. The return trip
was made amid much danger, the ships often being much ex-
posed and encountering heavy floes of ice. At a point near
Wolstenhome Island the rescuing party fell in with the
Dundee whalers, and announced to most of them the news
of the rescue of Lieutenant Greely and six of the Lady
Franklin Bay Expedition. This was done in order that they
might not continue on into the dangers of Smith Sound, or
be led farther north if they had so intended, in view of the
reward offered by Congress for the rescue of the Greely
party.

" In connection with these splendid sailors of the Dundee
fleet," Commodore Schley says, " I would state to the depart-
ment that they were most cordial to me during the interval
of time when the ice conditions of Melville Bay kept us
together. From them a vast amount of useful information
touching the navigation of this region was obtained, which
aided me greatly and increased my confidence so much in
pushing my expedition into the ports of Melville Bay, at that
early period of a very close and unfavorable season. Both
at Disko and Upernavik the governors informed me that the
season was the closest and severest for thirty years. In their
behalf I am glad to say that their appreciation of the situation
of Lieutenant Greely and his party in the desolate waste of
the dismal Arctic regions inspired them, as it did us, with a
determination to assume any risk necessary to reach the
imperilled party. If my ships had met with accident some of
these noble men would have reached Greely, though, as the
sequel has demonstrated, too late to have saved the lives of
the few survivors I had the good fortune to reach in time."

Commodore Schley continues : •

CONCLUSION.

497

" From the time of entering^, May 19th, until we left the ice,
there was not a moment when the ships were out of danger.
The most unceasing vigilance was necessary to prevent dam-
acre or to take advantage of opening leads to advance. Much
of my time, as well as that of the energetic commanders of
the other ships, was spent in the Crow's Nest ; in many in-
stances we passed sixteen to twenty hours in them, on the
lookout or in navigating leads. The anxiety and great re-
sponsibility of this period cannot be understood properly
without experience in these dangerous regions. Often the
labor would almost break us down; but it was never forgot-
ten that Greely and his party were in peril. The confidence
of our countrymen, the remembrance of their God-speed, and
the interest you took in the expedition, encouraged us when
<lifficulties increased. The struggle with ice was constant and
furious for 1,300 miles, to reach and rescue the survivors of
the Lady Franklin Bay Expedition, and to bring them home.
After passing Waigat Straits the winds, which had been north-
erly, hauled to southwest, and increased on July 4th to a
moderate gale, with snow during most of the day. . . .

"During our stay in Greenland we were assisted in every
way by the inspector of North Greenland and the governors
of Godhavn, Upernavik and Tassuisak. These gendemen
were unremitting in their politeness and assistance to the
expedition."

Referring to the cost of the expedition. Commodore Schley
says the total expense will aggregate about $750,000. A
considerable portion of this sum was for the purchase of the
ships, which were returned in good condition. Their value,
together with that of the returned stores and outfits in all de-
partments, when disposed of, either by sale or transfer to the
general service, will greatly reduce this amount. During the
cruise of the ships on the coast of Greenland, Lieutenants
Debre, Crosley and Badger, who were the executive officers
of the three ships, doing duty as navigating officers in addi-
tion thereto, ascertained that the English Admiralty charts of
that coast were deficient in a number of particulars. When-
ever opportunity offered advantage was taken by these offi-
cers to increase the accuracy of navigating this region. Com-
modore Schley highly commends Commander Coffin, and
says his duties were executed with judgment and skill. Of
Lieutenant Emory he says : " Lieutenant W. H. Emory, com-
32 , ' ■ ■

k3^ w -n

498

Aiunc: Kxri.oKAiioNs.

maiuHnq;' tho Hear, was iiinlcr my immediate ohscMvation
ilurinj^ most of tin; cruise. It allords me tlu; j;reatest pleasiin;
to testily to tlie promptness, (Mieri^y, and skilllii'iness ol tliis
meritorious ollicer; his coolness anti j^ood jiid«;nieiU were
valuable to me. On no occasioi\ was it necessary to eiiiur
prompt or onler liim to discharoi- duty. I le was always on
the watch, with the keenest appreciation of the situation, in
anticipalinij all my wishes. 1 woukl commend him specially
to the Pepartment as an oiliciT of hi^h professional merit
and competency, and W()uld frankly slate that much of ihr
success of the expedition is due to him and his ably-ofliciMcd
shij>.

Commodore Schley also commends the other officials o!
the various ships, and .says the selection of the crews of the
three vessels was faultless. 'I'here were no punishments on
hoard the ships until the return to civilization, and the few
cases then were caused entirely by rum. The report con-
cludes : "If not a brc^ach of official eti<|U(;tte, I would static that
our success in the work which w(* had the; honor to accom-
plish was made possible, first, by the munificent appropria-
tion of Conj^ress ; second, by the unceasiny;^ enerj^y of your-
self and the Secretary of War; your masterly comprehension
of the problems to be solved by the expedition ; your indc-
fatii^able activity in fittini^ it for its work, and your unllamginj^v
interest in preparing everythino which concerned its success.
This spirit was caught up by the officers and men you hon-
ored. and was the main spring of their action when absent.
Much of the success of the expedition was due to you, and
when I say this I only convey to you the sentiment of all who
served with me in the difficult, dangerous, and honorable
duty which you intrusted to our charge."

General Hazen, the Chief Signal Officer, has also sent in
his annual report to the Secretary of War. Speaking of the
Arctic relief expeditions he says, among other things, reter-
ring to the departure of the Yantic, after the loss of the Pro-
teus, from Littleton Island to St. John's without leaving pro-
visions, that this abandonment of Lieutenant Greely and his
party to probable starvation by the officers whose only mis-
sion in those waters was to succor them, displayed a lamenta-
ble disregard of grave responsibilities. He holds that if
Lieutenant Garlington had insisted upon leaving rations from
the Yantic, or if another relief vessel had been sent from St.

( (INCMISION.

499

bsiMvatntn

it \)ltMSlM<'

[«ss of ll»is
inciU were
y to citlii r
always on
lituation, ii»
lU spiH-iall^
ional merit
\\\v\\ of tlu;
)ly-oflu:(M((l

officials ot
rcws of till'
ishnu;nts on
ukI the fow

rt^port con-
sul stat(r that
ir to atoom-
it approiitia-
r^y of your-
ImprcluMision
your indo-

r unflai;;uini![
its success.

Ml you hon-

hen abstMit.
to you, aiul

nt of all wlu)

id honorable

John

as he says lie himself urL;e<l, loss of life and disashT

vvoiiM hav<' Ix'cn averted, (leueral llazensays Lieutenant
(ircely carried out his inslruelions literally, and the Signal
Uiinau carried out tlw prearran^cul plan. lie conlinues.
alter referrini; to Iaeut<'nant (ireely's retreat to ("ape Sahiix',
and to the success of the nlief exptrdition under Connnauder
Schley, as follows:

"Uj) to the r<;turn of the «x|)edition this year I had hop<;(l
there would Ix* no occasion lor raisinj^ tlu* cpiestion of blame
at this or any future lime. Ihit new li^ht has l)(;en cast u|H)n
tlu- subject, and with it my duty becomes plain, and tin- truth
of history and justir(* to all call for such impartial in{|uiry and
authoritative judonu^nt as a tribunal broad <'n()Uj4h to end)rac(;
the; whole (|U(!Stion shall institut<; and pronounct', and the
CoMKrcss of the United States is manifestly such a tribunal.
... I therefore trust that this whol<; matttrr of the I <ady
I'Vanklin Hay expetlition, and the; (expeditions orjL,'^ani/.ed for
its relief, will hv. dccMued worthy of a thorou^^h investi^^j^ation
by Congress."

General lla/tm regards the (ireely expedition as "amon^
the fon'inost of its kind," and insists that "both Lieutenant
Grecly in die Arctic and the Signal Ihireau in Washini^ton
rarricxl out their parts of the pn-arran^c^d plan of re.scue hter-
ally and successfully in every particular."

'lU

CIIAPTKR

XXX.

FUrilKK KXI'KDirioNS.

I' ■■* I ' 1** I,

How I,iculrM!\nt l.ockwond niiil l.ioulcnnni (lirrly Spent t!liiiMmiiH in Hu' Arclic Krp;ion-.
ExIraiMs tiiini llic Hmvof llio I'Vuinor OHicoi, who l.osl his l,i(o Ainon|; the IrclM'i);s of
C-i\)ie Si\liiiic -'I'lii' Snlicnni;s ol llolitlay Week — The l''icn(l of llun>;cr -New Vciir,
1884— A rhrislinas in (iiinui'li \mm\ «s Dcscriltctl l»y l.iculcntint (iiccly — 'I'lit! Work
Poni" l)y (iK'cly — t.ciiUwooil Si-os rape Ivolicrt l.ini'oln, (he llij;hesl Norlhern l.iililuilc
Mvcr Seen liy Man— The Secretary ol War on tlie Kesull of the I'ixpedilioii I'niiirc
Kxpedilions (o the I'olc — Lieutenant tlieely Says that the Host Route is Via I ran;.
Josef l.anil -When to Slait — How the Vvcvf sliouUI l)e Selecteil and Kiiiiippeil,

TiiK Story of that Christinas day, 1883, at Capt* Sal)iiic, of
Groi'ly aiul his mumi, is by far thi* most patlictic and pitiful tiiat
the world has over read, yet in the lines writttMi by one brave
man there is no word of complaint from his brave soul.

LocUwood, the noble oentleman, the bravi^ man, the iraljant
soldier, and the true heart, wrote of that time to tell how
brave men look calmly into the i;rave and j^rasp hands with
death, no matter how horrible his shape may be, and lay down
to eternal sleep.

\n October Major Greely and his comrades reached Cape
Sabine in their southwartl search for succor, and on the 20th
of the month occupied the hut of snow and ice that formed
the last home on earth of some of the party. Very soon the
scant food remaining to them became so much reduced that
the daily story, written alike by the rescued and the dead, was
of the dread battle with the fiend of hunfrcr.

Lieutenant Lockwood wrote all of his daily histories in
"short-hand," and his diaries transcribed are probably the
most voluminous of all, making many volumes of manuscript,
In these daily writings he formally notes the temperature, and
the constant record ol 33° or 34° tells of the suffering by cold,
even were there no words to tell of frozen hands and feet, or
of sleepless nights.

As the rations grew smaller, the record tells of how the

(Soo)

I'lmiKr. I'xi'r.niiioNs.

501

Anlir UrRiott—
l» tlic lin-l"'i|',* "(
i^cr -Now Yciu,
,,,.ly .-'ri\i; Work
Noillu-ni l.iililudc
xi>o«litii)ii I'lilnrc
mte iH Vi;i \\Mn
Imiippoil.

)c. Sabine, of
kI pitilul tli;U
jy one biiwr
c soul,
ti, the ^rallant
to tell lu)w
IP liands with
luul lay down

flioiiiM)! nf .ill fnnird on llw jmhxI (liini;s".M lioiiu* " t(» cat
iiiid (lrinl». I'A'cn wliilc wriiiuLf <»! sonw «v«ni, a «',a|» will
(oinc, siuh as " Mcinoramliim — rranbcny j<'Ily," and the nar-
rative ^oes on.

Olliters and men join in talk of " home " and "America,"
and of ibe sweets of life and lood lliere, and ^b-eluily plan
t>r;md leasts, set dinners, and e\rlian<.'c hospitalities. I ,o( k-
woods.'iys: " lb*;iinar<l is lo come to supper at my home on
reacliiii}^ WashiiiLMon, and i h.ive promis<(| liim i ally hm,
stewed oysters, smearease, and pr<s<rv< d stiavvberri<-s with
cake. Alter snp|)er a smoke, .-md then wine and cake, and
s()in(; Hini;in.L; by Mary Murray (the home name of a sister).
1 have invit<d i'rederic ks ;ind Lons> lo inmc lo the house and
iiat soiiK" preserved strawberries and black cake. 'lUr. otluT
mess ha<l ;i ,L;fovvl tonight about their soup; 'got it cold,'
they said."

In the long months of night, and the bitter cold and storm
and starvation, the d.iys and even \\\r. hours wen; coimt<(l.
lie says: "\Mr. count the days Irom one Sunday to another,
and lo solstice; and Christmas." The winter solstice marked
to these the passage of half the tedious nijdit, and tlu; return
of the sun meant the loosening of the mighty bonds of sur-
rounding let; and probabh- rescue. They, too, looked forward
to Christmas, and in a small way, i)itinilly small, a commemo-
ration of tin; day. December icS Lock wood thinks of a new
dish for a Christmas dinner dessert — "oranges and ()ineapple
cut u[) togelh(!r, and eaten with grated ( (» oamit," and then
says: " My mind dwells constantly on my childhood's home.
Oh, my dear home, ami tlu; dear ones tlutre ! Can it be pos-
sible 1 shall some day sec them again, and that these days of
misery will pass away? My dear father; is Ik; still aliv(;?
My dear mother and sist(;rs, I larry, and my nieces and
brolhers-in-law ; how often I think of th(;m."

December 21. — After a burst of joy at reaching " the top
of the hill," and the turning southward of the t;arth to find the
long absent sun, he t(;lls that: " By a great effort was abb; to
save one; ounce; of my bread and about two ounces of butt(;r
for Christmas. I shall make; a vige)rous effe)rt te) abstain from
eating it before then." Think of that! A " vigore)us e;ffort"
to keep from eating an ounce; of bre;ad. And Ik; "put it in
charge of Biederbeck as an additie)nal safe-guard." .Shooting
a fox that same day made " an extra one for Christmas."

« >y

502

AKt lit I MM OK \ri«>NS.

1 VrcinlMM- 22. — "W r li>ok lni\v.»rtl \n i«»-m«Mn>\v ,\\h\ ( hii'.i
mas." aiul "I i^llcicil i»M>i\r ,\\\\ nnc ,» it).»'>t niikr\ on km,!;
ins.^ lu>i\i(' \o\ .1 siiii^li' «lo!4-l)isniil now, l>iil roniul no lakri',."
rile next *l.n. "I sa\«'*l n<Mrly all m\ haul lurad \^^y
C'luislinas. thoii'L^h I weed il s<»n'[y." I( was a wriMrhnl ,|,iy
aiul he aiul olhcrs were very wrak. aii«l he hopes " t hiisim.i'.
will he b»Ml(M- than l«> »la\." aiwl (»> inakr his JiniuT jM.nul.i
he mavlc .1 tntiKMuloiis <'llt>rl aiitl vvcnl wilhoiil his nim, m
onlcr to have it l«>r Christinas" [o ;uU\ t«> the piineh.

C'hristnuis (»ve eaine, an»l he aikhMl to his seantv savinrs loi
tUv ne\t ila\'s least hall nl his bread .tutl his pieee ol lemon
Ah' (.'hrislinas ev<' had i^nMter powia* there d\an even lirir
in w.iint honu's. l>v \v<>ll spr<'ad hoards, to tnrn the thoueliis
lo the absent ones. The dev(»ted and laithlnl son and loviiii;
brother \vrot(V "To nii;hl is (."hristnias ev<\ and tuy ihonidiis
.ire tinned t«>\v.\rd home. ( iod pr(>s<'rv(> me to see this ij.iv
ne.xt yeat". and (mijov it home with those I h»v(\ ro-morrew
is lo be pretty miieh a repetition ol I'hanksjMvinj;. I have
saveil np mv bre.id and rum. 1 tinnk ol lite children at home;
the Christinas-tre(> tonight, and tht^ toys c. Kill my lin^eis
are tt>o eold lo vrite mor(\"

At last eonuvs the Christmas all have looked forward to lor
so lon.v, and the diary tells this story: " I )eeemb(>r 25. Ha-
ronuner. J?o.*).> : thermomeler. ,vS.5. Christmas. We have
all hcc.n lalkinj.; aiul w.iilini; anxiously lor the hour, and now
it is here and (5 r. m.) nearly oone.

" Hreaklast consisted ol" thin soup of peas and carrots, with
a little 'elubberaiul some sj)oonruls ol" polatO(!s. This we li.ul
at si\ o'clock. Cloudberries S(M*ved out (two cans to e.ich
messV

"At ' r. M. Lonvi lij^hletl up lor tlu; event ol the day — din-
ner, ninner ciMisisied ol" a line, rich slew «)! all seal meal.
with onions, a littK^ blubber, potatoes, and bread crumhs.
After this we had, in the course oi' an hour or so, a line, iiici!
stow, w'ith raisins, and a little blul)ber aiul milk.

"Those were pretty much the same as 'I1ianksi;ivinij, hut
the cooks made a _oiv;it dc;al on that day, and the meals seemed
better. I'he cooks arc iu)w preparing" some lino chocolaU;,
antl that will be followed by a punch of one gill of rum lo
each man.

" riio party have boon in fine spirits to-day. Choi^rs were
o-ivcn after breakfast for Lioutonant Grooly, Corporal Klisoii,

ll'M'KI I Ml' hi I IMNS.

.V\5

Kicc, nn<l \hr two r(M»Ivs ll was ajinrtl that wr sIicHiId jmv^
v,u\\ "I tl"' l^vo l".t|iiiin.\iis lillv tciils (n»m rub miinlMi nl
tl\c rvprdilion. |t» he kepi lot ih< m Im ncsl ( liri'.lina;.'

"\»'.|rnla\ has |»as'i«tl." \\r \vri(«s llir n»\l alhinnnii, "lui(
I liml my nolcs nl v'''it''r<l;«y very iin|nil»M I. I'h- Jay was a
jMcat siHMt'ss. VV<' all \\,\i\ ('nniij;li, «»r nrarly (Miniij^li. I liad
ny\\\ ouiUMVi extra whirh I h.iil savrj np, nnr nimrc oriuillrf
|i(";i(lrs. and tli<' mm nl the Simdav lulnn*.

" ll was ai'HMMl cailv in i\\r innrmiM' that iinlhini' shnnld
hv saiil to mar Ihr picasmrs nl tjir <|,iy. Many Kindly
thoiiidil'i wrrr rxprcssfd jnr thnsc at linmc, and nh ! hnvv
oiicn wo spoke oT what vv.is };nini; nn at niir scv«ial Immcs.

" Many of the party j',av«' tlw hill nl Ian* at tlwir Immcs.
or cnnrsc, I «lid nnt InriM'l In mcntinn rnasi linkcy, craii-
licrrics. and inincM* pic

" l\<'minisr<'n(cs nl linm'", invilatinns tn Inlnrc ( hrislmascs,
ananiM'tnents Inr Inlnn* ("Ini.lmas m«r|iin»s. pakrnc rystic,
and l«) lli«* Aim Arhnr hntcl. The reading; nl ijir record.
Some snnj;s in all lanjMiaiMs, iiu liidinj; I'reiuli, ( l<'rinan,
Daiiisli, and Inmiit. Ilie Mnhday Itill;; nl (are wei7M'ead hy

Sixi
ll

)nii

iiuls ri<<\ three pniin<r. milk, two pnmnh; cnllec

>H<

two ami a (inarl«'r elinc <»lale. Iivr pniinds raisiii"

Iwel

v<* am

a hall lemnns, twelve and a hall pounds hrcad, six and a iiall
pounds l)rea<l toast, twn pniinds lard, thn-e pounds l»liil)l»er,
eii;hl pountis elondberries, «)ne pound siiwar, twenty live
oimces carrots, Tilty ounces peas in [he stews, six ounces rx-
tract nlljeer, twelve to Inurtefn niincrs seal meal, Inurnunces
rum to each man — somewhere ahniil thirty-six niinces of solid
lood to each man.

"The supply in the mornini; was pretty much the same as
usual, but tlu' seal stew was voted l>y all as df^licioui; and ex-
tremely salislactory, TIk" ric(^ was tlie same, and many wero
the praises i;iv<'n to ea( h. The piin< h was extr(!mely line.
Chocolate ahout seven n'chu k, and hy this time most of us
W(!re loo lull for iitterance, and tin' conversation gradually
slackened off, and, with tlui soni^s, tlw! day ended.

"To-day W(! have all been fe(din|j;^ extremely well all day
— nice and warm, and cnmfortabh; in iIk^ extreme. .Some of
us at(! too much y(;sterday, but only so much as to feci a littlo
uncoinlbrtable at times, but we all slept well.

"The cooking' was a threat ordeal to the cooks on account
of the smoke, there beinj';' very little wind, but the cooks were

AKCTir EXPLORATIONS.

given an extra half gili of rum. They did nobly. Bender
relieved Fredericks to-day, his eyes hurting him a crood
deal.

Our talk this morninnr was of home and our families. Dr.
Pavy, Rice, Israel, Brainard, and others expressed themselves
as having conceived a very high idea of my father, from what
they had heard from Lieutenant Greely and from me. I have
invited them to come to the house particularly. I have ex-
tended a general invitation to all the members of the expedi-
•ion, I spoke this morning of the reunions of my family, and
how enjoyable they are. My remarks about my father brouoht
tears — the first time I have siied tears since I have been
in this country; if I except the occasion at Esquimaux Point
v^hen Rice returned with the records — the only time I spoke
also of my sisters, and of Mary Murray, whose many virtues
I highly eulogized.

'• Kislingbury was kind enough to make for each of the
party a cigarette. Many of us are now out of tobacco en-
tirely."

Could so terrible a story of suffering and privation be told
more graphically ? And who to-day will not offer a pitying
prayer for the brave, good soldier and son and his comrades,
who laid down their lives so uncomplainingly?

December 26. — The diary of Lockwood reads of Christmas
week : " To-day, thermometer, 34.8°. We have all been
feeling extremely well to-day ; nice and warm and comfort-
able in the extreme. Some of us ate too much yesterday,
but we all slept well. Breakfast this morning was late, con-
sisting of a soup made of seal-blubber, which was very good,
I d'd not feel very hunger. Supper of English beef, etc. I
had a few bread crumbs, salt water, and 'gunpowder,' which
Long warmed over the lamp. We spoke a good deal to-day
of the prospects of getting across the straits in the spring;
of Rice's preliminary trip ; of the chances cf finding food
there, etc. The day has been calm. We count on 240 ra-
tions as certain. A fox has been seen around to-day. but our
efforts to shoot him were not successlul so far. The talk this
eveninor is all about food, dessert, etc.

" December 28. — Thermometer 29.5°, calm and clear. I
exchanged places with Whistlc^r during the forenoon, he oc-
cupying my bag and I his. Had very cold, numb hands all
the forenoon, but now the circulation seems to have come

FUTURE EXrEDITIONS.

505

back, though it has run out of one of my feet. The coldness
of the extremities is due evidently to the short rations, and
shows how food is fuel in this country. Kentucky spoken of
this morning. Jewell made some remarks in connection with
horse-breeding in the State.

"Last night Gardiner commenred a book on American
shipping, found in the cache Iiere. We gleaned from this
that the navy board ordered before we left recommended the
establishment of a formidable navy, and that the President
brought the same and the subject of American shipping be-
fore Congress. It is singular how we tluis pick up little strips
of information. Rice read some of McCartliv's History of
Modern Times, and thus die evening was prolonged until
9.30 p. M.

" I have amended my lunch with Lieutenant Greely. He is
to send to California for the recipe of the Chinese way of
making curry and riai with chicken. This is to be substituted
for the tenderloin steak. With Cross I am to eat Welsh rare-
bit, black cake, and egg-nog. I am to take to his house the
cake : he furnishes the other articles.

"The record of the 28th and 29th covers about the same
ground. .There was intense cold, and the principal thing of
interest v/as an order of Lieutenant Cireely to make an ex-
periment of using seal-blubber for fuel.

"December 30. — Thermometer 21°. Last night marketing
was continued late into the night, and much impatience was
expressed for this morning with its son-of-a-gun (a bread
stew). Snyder, with some one else, struck up a bargain at
three o'clock this morning.

" I save to-day's rum for to-morrow night, when I shall
probably remain up to see the' old year out. The son-of-a-
gun this morning was particularly fine, and the stew this
evening equally so.

"Very little conversation, and but little to-day, on the sub-
ject of eating. Full meals seem to have the effect of induc-
ing silence, the party lying down and enjoying comfortable
repose. It is singular how warm and comfortable a good
meal makes one. Came on blowing to-day about noon, and
a storm is now raging from the east. The rope makes lots
of smoke, but it is owing a good deal to the heat and the time
occirpied in cooking. This morning the smoke was dense and

bliiidinir.

This evenino was much better on account of the

5o6

ARCriC EXPLORATIONS.

ft '"lity ii

wind. I am suffering with my eyes, which seem to have been
affected by the smoke.

" Memorandum. — Cracked wheat with honey and milk.

" December 31. — Thermometer 21°. Thermometer yester-
day morning at ten o'clock inside the house 24°. Storm rao^iivv
all last night and all day to-day from the east This evening
it seems to have stopped.

"About ten a. m. it was discovered that the water-hole was
frozen up, and a new hole nearer the shore was commenced.
We worked at the new hole from this time until 4.15 i\ m.,
when Brainard succeeded in striking water. It was very se-
vere work. The wind blew in gusts very hard. All the well
ones went out except Lieutenant Greely. Those who did not
go out were Lieutenant Greely, Elison, Jewell, Gardiner,
Henry, the doctor, Biederbeck, Cross, Bender, Whistler, and
the two Esquimaux ; also the two cooks. The two cooks and
the Esquimaux, and the doctor and Biederbeck, do not take
part in keeping open the water-hole. Whistler was occupied
in cutting up the wood.

" This evening was fixed upon for trying the blubber to
cook by, but it has been postponed. The water used by the
doctor for dressing frost-bites has been warmed up to-day for
the first time over the blubber-lamp. This might have been
done right along. Instead, about three ounces of alcohol
each day have been used.

" Breakfast this morning consisted of ox-tail soup, and
supper of English meat. My rum issued yesterday I will
drink to-night, as I want to set up and see the old year out.
Supper was delayed until about five o'clock by the work on
the water-hole. We all got cold feet by going out. My own
became painfully cold, and we are still very cold. It is dis-
comfort n: the extreme.

" How glad we all are that the end of the year has been
reached again, can hardly be explained. Rice expects to
start across about the end of January. We had to cut down
through about four feet of ice to reach water.

"Tuesday, January I, 1884. — Day passed in bag. Lieuten-
ant Greely came over and paid me a visit shortly after break-
fast. He 'told me that the doctor had made overtures to
make allowance (offensive remark made some time ago), but
that he had declined. He told me also that some time ago
he felt certain that the doctor was eating during the night

FUTURE KXPKDITIONS.

507

Corporal Elison's allowance of bread. Was within two and
a half feet of the doctor at the time, and would swear to the
fact before a court. He thouoht it right to mention the fact
to Brainard, but had said nothing to any oik; else about it.
But this, as well as fornuir matters, he should make the sub-
ject of report to the proper authorities on his return, to act
upon as they chose.

" He told me that Klison's hands and feet were suppura-
ting fast, and that the line of demarcation was becoming
clearer ; that amputation would evidently have to be per-
formed, but that nothing would be attempted here, but at Lit-
tleton Island. All this seems to have been gained mostly
or altogether from Biederbeck.

"He told me that he would do all in his power to aid me
in getting a staff appointment on my rt;turn ; that if I desired
I could have three or four weeks on my n:turn, nominally on
duty, but with litde or nothing to do, particularly at the signal
office, and that if I desired there would be no trouble in get-
ting three or four months' leave of absence.

"Salor went out to-day and cut out the water-hole without
trouble. I ate to-day a good breakfast ot rice and tomatoes,
with some bread. At noon I ate three dog-biscuits with but-
ter, and a little latter we had cloudberries and rum and lemon.
Supper consisted of fine seal-meat stew. While eating I had
the misfortune to spill my bread, and, in picking it up, spilled
the last drop of my tea. Very kindly Lieutenant Greely,
Long, and Biederdeck gave me a little, so the cupful was al-
most regained. Before I got my stew Snyder offered me
seven dog-biscuits, and next Sunday's scanty addition of the
son-of-a-gun for my stew this evening, but afterward changed
his mind. When Ellis perceived 1 had spilled my tea he of-
fered to trade me half a cupful, but as he took advantage of
my misfortune, I declined.

"We have all been feeling remarkably high spirited to-day
on the coming of the New Year, and this evening all seem
hopeful. We now speak frequently of going home this year.
We are all in high hopes. I go over this evening and take
Jewell's place in Lieutenant Greely's bag, with the latter and
Israel. The condition of the party is far superior to anything
I expected, and the future bids well to come out all right.

" How my thoughts wander homeward to the dear ones
there ! Are they thinking of me ? "

508

AK( IK' I'.XI'lCKAriONS.

'f '. J

■i.^

Lioiitrnant (Ircoly, in tli(! course of coiivcrsalioii. «U'srtib(«s
a Polar Christmas (1882) in (Iriiinrll I ,.uul as follows:

"It was Cliristnias \\\r. \u (Irinncll I -and as in all I'hr woiid
bcsi(l(\ Vhc t(Mn|>(MalMro was nuxNM.Uf lor \\\r season, raiiv
ini; iVom tw'enty live lo thirty dei^rees helow the zero ol I'aliK n-
lieit. I'^or two days, however, a severe storm ol hiL;h wind uikI
driltino' snow had prevailed, renderim; our nsnal ont-ol door
exercise diflicnll and tlaiii^erons. I'or sevcMity days the chcci
less oloom and darkness of the lonjr Arctic nioht had 1)(( n
upon us. leaving their impress in the shap(^ ol failing app<'
tit(N, lailini; color, and depressed spirits. Now more than
over came to our minds a sense ol isolation and a remem-
brance ol* that world from which we were separated by long
and dreary expanses of ice and snow.

"Would storm and wind allay and i;ivc us a brij^dit ("hrisi-
mas ? This was the cpiestion which disturbed our minds. At
noon, to our delight, the wind ("ell, and a few hours later ihc
snowy douils vanished as if by maj^ic, anil once ai^aiii the
starry beauties of the Polar lu^aven shone forth in all tlu-ir
glory. This sudden chani;^ sj)oke well for the morrow, and
gave new vii^or to Sergeants Rice and Prainard, who had set
their hearts upon a fitting celebration of tlu! coming d.iv.
Tlu^y asked the use of all flags, baimers, and other decorative
articles, intimating at the same time that my absence bom the
men's quarters until six \\ m, was desirable. At that hour tli(>
results of their work stooil disclosed. The bright ll.igs, neat
bamiers, and gay guidons were tastefully arranged, and |)rc-
sented a markin! and <lelightful contrast to th(; snu)ke hc-
grimetl walls and < <Mling. bi the most prominent jdace was
hung an afghan. whosi* alternations of snowy whit(Miess and
crimson color wen* broken by various di'vices in d( liiatr
neetUe-work. Its gold(Mi anchor of hope, its silve. hoisc
shoe ot luck, its while lilies of purity, its sweet violets of re-
membrance, its jiolar star and its cross of faith, were to us all
emblems ever dear. \Vt ought by loving hands in other
climes, its lu^st usefulness served to cIuhm* ami brighten our
lonely .Arctic quarters on this Christmas \'Wv.

"Our stock of jiresents was not large. The grt'ater part el
them had been contributed through the kindiu^ss of a lady in
Now York city, who, although unac(piainteil with any memher
of the expedition, had, with considerate thoughtfulness, for-
warded some little gift for each one of the party. I'he prcs-

I'UrUHK I'XI'l'.DmoNH.

509

<^nt for IJrnlrnanl KisliiinlHny, wlirn oprncd, caused consitl-
oial)I<' nKMiiincul, il hciiiu^ ,1 Ijtilc wooden do^. It clicilcd
from tli<' linitrnaiit a qncHtion to PHvalr Srhnciclrr, whi( h lias
been often heard in lower latitudes: 'Ah, S( hneider, don't
yo\i want to buy a doi; ? * I'lif appropriateness of the re-
mark lay in the fact that Schneider had ilevoted himself lo
tile I'lsipiinianx pnpnies, and was then caring esperially for
two litters of them. The officers' mess was the recipient of
nil <',\cellent imitation of an Irish potato. TIk* (oinmandini;
officer received a fan, whi< h was lianlly needed to recall the
climes for which it was made. 'I'he presents for the men
nearly always included pip('s or tohacco, with the addition of
hooks, slates, pencils, wristlets, etc. .SerL;caiit Ric(; thoutrht
it ail adverse fate which sent to him, a non-smoker, a pouch
filkxl with a goodly c|uantity of the weed. Ser^^(;ant (iardiiier
was i;reatly delii;htetl and surprisc^l by receiviiiL,'^ from his
sister a comforter knit hy her hands.

"Hie gifts from tlu; commanding officer were now in order.
Twenty-four cans of uniform size, numbered from one up-
wards, were set out on the table and disposed of by chance,
riie hi,L;hest throw had first choice and s(dectefl a numlier
which entitled him to the corresponding (an. As with Portia's
scaled caskets, the privil(!j^e of external examination was
iTianted, and as in that case where weij^hty gold and shining
silver lost the prize, so h(!re the heavier and more attractive
cans were not always the most valuable. In general the
heavier cans wvrc filled with beans, nuts or ric(^ while the
lighter contained orders for confections, fruits, rum, etc. One
fortunate individual. Sergeant (iardiner, drew an ord(*r for a
ton of ic(! — a second, an order 'good for nothing,' and a third,
a ticket * good for a passage to St. John's by the first steamer.'
As transpired two years later, (iardiner — poor fttllow — had it
in mind to turn t'.ie joke upon m(; and |)ay me off in my own
coin. On one of the bright days that came to us in the spring-
time at Sabine — for, even amidst all o;:r sufferings and ter-
rible privations, our spirits never entirely failed us, and some
days were bright and cheerful to us — he opened his wallet
and .said:

"'I have here, Major, a paper that may interest you. I had
intended to present it to you to be honored on our arrival at
home, but, as that may never be, I would like you to read
it now.' ♦

5'^^

Aurnr *r\r» okamons.

" tt \v.is 1UV onl(M' lor .\ ion »»l wr.

"\VI\il(Ml\r «.»liliMo >v,»^ m |Momrs'i. skilllnl h;\n»l'4 ItM.) Ix-cn
busy |>r<'jMriii!;; o\ir I "hi i"iltn;»'; itip. .\ di livion'; cpo utv-

|Hntn>li\\5^ i( wcic 1r«>n\ the ».\n ;u\>l i\v>t Iroshlv Ihmm iIh' l.nm
riu^ n\<M ritU(M\l ol ihi^ ('vrtuii|L^. as wms n \[\\\a\ ;nul uppropi i.u, ,
ImusI U>nh itt s«m<^. rUntiUiot^ tMc'loilirs. roiui*- stino; .\n,|
•■.<M)tinu nt.\l «luii(^s \\r\r iriuinr.l, jL^ivinji wav. Ms twnliu'hi
.\]>p\-o,ul\r\l. (v> s.urrvl lu iniis .u\»l ll\os«' Ixwtittlnl Mnd i« ii,|, i
V.'luisnnas *',\iols \vl\uh \\A\r roiwr down lo «is Innn die iwi.l

dlo ao(^

U1S \\\[U sonos ol p\;us(' was usIumimI \\\ \\\m

i.1\tistnias inoin \u our KmuIv homo in tho \\vm\ and li
Northland.

o;in

At si\oMo»K on (,'lnistiuasdavlho ihrrnioinrior rrn'i'Mcivd

toitN virjM

0('

bol

o\v

M»>, h\\\ \:\\\n »\('athcM ai\d a rloai skv

insn\-<\l a d(Mi5;hthil i\,\\\ as .\\x\\' days j;o ai that s(-as<«n ni
(h<^ y(\u. Out iMcwklast » an\(\ as \>snal. at hall past iiMu
At WW o'vlvvk tho nion assnnMcd lo» tho rnstonuiry Sahhuii
Tho soloviion o\ IValuis lor (.'hiisltnas day w.c;

soryu'c^

tvavl. a>; \v<Ml as \\w \_;otn and i,|nih

I'sal

tUM.

Silnali

as \y<' woK^ upon tho \(Ms*o \

il ih

»o woild. and liyuu' in tli

v;r(\\t shadow »

>l that Aittir niidit. to ns al

raino inor(>

touchinv^ly and loi»il>ly than vwv tho ttinh *>1 thoso lu.uniliil

«1,-\v.

U I v.\\c (1

(!■' I'l ill.' ii'it ;

\«- «\i\j;» iM {\u- nii^imni". mill lowiwn \\\ Uw nil<Mnti>Hi pi\(

No(\l I say ihat onr inornltti^ rxrivisos >vri*o riosod with

Traiso Civ>d troin W hon^

All Hi

ossnuv

vny. tn w

hi.l

\ V\V\)

the l(\\st nuisiv-al rais<^l his yoia^ ?

" Purini; th(^ vlay n<\\rly (n<My itutn took an nnnsnal amount
o( plnsi«.a) (^\oivis(^ in yi(ny i>l the appi«M<hin!; loast. and tlu"
llifOOMuilo vourso to Oiitih Islanil and hack was, as nsnal. (in-
tavotito o\ tho k\,\\. ll hioh iu>on hromdu to us uauidil Init
tho shining stars and ciivlinv> pk\n<'ts o\ tlu' nijdu, yot o\\\
oycs and S(M1S(^s, trainovi to Aivtit" vlarkuoss. < nai>l('d us to
koop i\\c rou*;h n>aviway throuv^h tho lauvdinl iv cliioi and o\\

th(

o pai.xwrys

uic tl

0(^s. Aiul it naturo l>y hor frosty touih li.ul

Ixiuishod (nory liying subjoct from <iur clintoatul thus siioiU(\l
tlio Inim of animal lilo. yot with i;ranil aiul wordless yoicc^s
she sp;vko lo us through iho surj;iiiv; tides aiul eraikliui; uv
foot

M'MM;) ISPI l<l Mt>N'),

|>m «»jM 111',
s n\\>liu 'hi

VvA \\\ \\\M

\\\\ii\\\ '«' t"i»"' '>'

luis silnurd

(>ll|- ('\(M« JMf' \\,\". |<l<Mn|>llN tltMU It\ liMI! Mt III! I., ttlll \\\r

lonj: nuMUt nl llu' «1mv tIrhNi »I <|int\<'i nil :in houi |;«lri. .t; mil
rooK-^. I'lrilnii Iv iind I miu>. wcm- Jririnnnnl iltiii «'vri mIiiiij'

Bhoitltl lu< iU ilM lu si. All l;in<l'; :\\\\\ « llinc; |i;||t| lliltiltr In

o\n l.il'U'. ,\\u\, ii llir I oM\ niiiDiKil iniKrv vvM'i \v;mliiii;. il vv;m
\V»H H')»l;»(ril l)v llir tliitk'i Mini rnilU'ino|r>i nl ( in i iil.md.
A (l('li»inn<< IduK-iloin nl \\\v imi;ik nx nt (iiiinifli \ nii<l ,il',n
jmjikmI niM l.il»l«\

•' Ihr' pinni |tn<Min>' li.i.l In «ii m 'MMim' nl ilisliMi lion In iIm
oxtiv'. nnlil II wM'i .nninnut ( tl In ilii III ||i;ii .i |,ns nl t.iiiiH(l
pinitilllj; \\iU\ luMMI ';rnl in lll« |>.lllv .I'i .1 ( InisllIlM'; \'\\i limit

ihr wilo ol ihc' rnniiiiiinilinr nliid-i. I Iw fiiii.iim' nl lli»^

iindrirnnlv wilii llir |Mi<l»linr. vvms iIic !» jiimr nl ilif dimim.

\\\c l.nnlu'nl. pillr MiU' ll;liiii'% nl llif MUM .Luk ..ij; iibmil llw

jMuUiMi; wru' i\ nnvf ll\ In imiH' mikI ;i <|(-|||>||| in .ill /\ll( r

|h(' itMU'C (Mt

I) nil

Irm ;ll|il III, in \v;l'l in «")C|||(t I willl ;l I l.lV.lllil

«ij;.n. llx- };ill ol ;i llinn^;hlliil .iimv l;i<lv wlm jippifMiil* .i ilu*
wciiKiU'ss nl llu- iMiiK Mini lilr Ini sin li iilii If; nl liivniv.
Slu>illv iilln llic (linnn SciimmmI Km i' Mjt|H . nil in llu- nlln itr,'
mom. '.iMlinji iIimI Uv «mim«' nn In IimII nl ilic . un, vvlm <lt';inM|
10 cspioss, llunnjOl \\\r, lluii lliMiik'; In llir iMtlits \vlnru- inn
siild.ilt' Ivindnrss IimiI rnnlnlmlr.l .n iiiim It In llu ii plrMsmr
anil liM|t|tiiu'SM mi lliis ( JiirjIniM'. «Imv.

ir cvrniiii; pM'i'aMJ ipiKklv wilh iini'K mimI npjn'n|M inir
sniij'/i. Al llu' I'm! nl «iiic nl llicni llic nipjil nlrit rvci < .ilird
Inmliv mil :

i:i

(vrn n»

Inrk I

"( hnsln\Ms (JMy al ( nniMi wms mdcd.

The Tnlar (IimiI, (oinpii'd under llir diicilinii nl (Out
llldet jnlni K. ItMlllrll. i ly<liniMMplir I In llir I'iiikmii nl
Ivii'.Mlinn, wilh hIckik c In ihr in* nlpniMlinii nl llir ImIchI
a((|iiisilinns In a KimwIrdiM' nl llir ifj'imis < itt ninjat 'iil In
ihr Nnilh Tnlo Inmislic'd l»v JiriiMnMiil ( in«ly and \\va paiiy,
isiu)\v siil)stanlially cnmplrif d. Tin- (IimiI pir!i«Mil'i at a )daiu r
ihc iMMrvclinns ainniinl nl ImIhh' m( < ntnitli.lxil. all lliiiu". < nn

siildcd, by llic (iicrly parly. llu" rli.ul rxliihil-; llir Nnilli
American I'niar r«-};inn, Imin I'l.illin's hay In l.iiKohi '.,fn,

sliouiiij; the mnsi ret:<in (hsenv'iies, iiirlinliii}' llin'.«' nl llu:
I'liiied .Slates l*nlaris rxprdiiinii in iS'/i ,» under Captain (.,'.
v. Hall, the Hiilish Ar(li« explnialinn:, in \>^y^(t under ('ap-
lain (1. .S. Nares, and the Lady I'ranklin hay expc-dition in
I8S.V-J nnder Liiiilenant A. VV. ( ireely, U. .S. A.

fl-

>: *i

i •

n I

1 ' ^J B^

I f* f ' ' "^

.,: -j^i

5«2

Aunu" rxnnwAuoNM.

V\\r rt'sults ol" the <'\nlnran«ms ol (he ( Ikm-Iv |<.nlv. an
shown on (hr rhMil. rov<M<Ml ihrcr linus whal wms .utcmh
phshctl l>\ i»ll ll\<' oih<'r <>N()('»htions natnrd. I "he hii;h< si pitint
r(',»(h(Ml l>y tltr Tolaris, on AnvMisI ,;i, iS';i, wms S,>" i i,'
<"«>Mini;«iul(M- M;ulvl\am and I irnlcnanl ran, ol \\\r N.n<s
Hiihsh <'\|)(Mlit\on, yy\\ May > -', iS/C», hMirhcd S<" ^o' -r,"
I.irutcnanl IW\unt»on(. ol \\\c 'uwwr rspctliiitMt, on M.in ;i,
1S70, saw ncamnoni Island Ixyon*!. Lieutenant l.o(K\voot|,
ol tlie (Ireely parly, aeeotnp.inic d l>y S<Mi;eanl Hum. ml,
sl;nle»l onl ow their eeh^hraled jonincy noiihwani eaily m
May, jSS-?, erossini,', ov(M- to (ape Hiiiainiia. Meannuml l.l.iiul,
th<^ lailhesl point s(mmi l»y th<^ N.ire-; parly in 1 S'/ri, sKirhd
tlie eoast. sUelehiniL; \\\v onllin<^ ol" tlu> inlets and liot,,s as ihcy
Nvent alon^v, anil passini,; Heanntont Island reaehed on M.iy
i; as, iSS;, tw»> islai\tls, aetordins; to the aetin.ih' sraleni
the eharl, in latiUuh* S,V' .^^ «>i' ihfee and one-hall miles
n(\u<M- the pole than was eyer reaehetl l»y any hninan Iteini;,
\yhieh they nanunl I,oekw«)od and Hr.iinard Islands, and saw
a i^iH' ten nules l)ey<>n»l, l>< arino norlhcMsl, whieh they n.niKd
KoIhmI l.ineoln, the hijL',hesl seen point in the wtnld and he
li<n(\i to he the (^xtretue northern pt>inl ol the eontineni 01
<ir<'(Miland. IT the same tray<'lle'l «lisl.«nee had heen possilijc
to the northward l.oek\v<u>d and. Hninard would have Iwcii
some lUiuMy miles n<Mi<M the pole .\nd in its inuuedi.ile yicinily,
The repoi t will show that owini^ to the open sea duriui; ihc
spring; t>l k'nS^ this party was lorced to keep the eoast line
instead ol penetrating due north, as app(\us to have heci;
tluMT purpose.

l.ieulouant Loikwoo»l adtls ninety miles of eareliilly
tU^lmeated coast tv> the hith(Mtt) <^xtreme limits of ^co^raplmal
kutnvledge. Mount vSehley, on l,oekw(nnl Island, is shown
to he -2.500 teet high. This aviditional data eon\pletes the
v>utlin(\s. it is believiHl, ol the northern eoast ol (lre<'nlaiHl
auvl leaves hut a small strip of about ninety mih's ol thai
eoast to eomplet(* tht* cireumnavigation and eireumexploralion
ol that iey eontineut. The highest point reached on the
eastern coast was in 1670. Since that time two centurios
elapsed without any attempt to follow the coast on that side
until the s(HH>nd Cierman expedition, which reached, however,
a lower point in \Sjo.

The announcement which appears to have attracted the
most profound attention was that for the first time formulated

MiniKi', KxniM iniNM.

\" ^o' 'f>".

•n M.\\ '1.

I ,oi Uwooil,

t l\r.nM.\i«l,

inl r.\il\ in

Svf), sUi\i«tl

\(mI on M.w

,»!<' s( all" ol

i(v-hali mill's

ninaii Ixmiu',,

uls, anil saw

\ jlicy nanutl

!o\U\ an»l 1"'

r<>nvin<M»t oi

>rcn |»o'.mI>1('

«1 hav(* Ix'cu

ilialrvicinilv,

a tlnrini; tlu'

\(' foasl line

() havo lurt;

,)i" (.-art-hilly
iiV('()v;raphH'il
|n*l, is shown

oniploK's iho
])|" Ciroonbiul
IniiU'S oi thai
]nu'xpl<>'';il'^'"
Ichctl on ll\e

two centuries
on tliai siile

hctl, however,

[attracted the
be formulated

anil anihoiilalivrly «|«( I.immI ihal ( a|if Kolifil I ,in« oh», 'jrcii
l)y I icntrnani LorKwood and ScijManl Miainanl linni I .nek-
wood Island, (undin^; In di'* iioidirasi, was (lu- fxlicinp
uoidiftn |)oinl ol ihr lonlnnnl ol ( irccnIaiMl. A i nnsnllation
vv;!; lu'ld and dir tiniMn|tMlar niaici vvfif^ cxamintd in « nn-
iMM lion wilh I .irnlcnanl loikwonih; < hail t»l his (chlualfd
jdinnoy alonj,; ihr noidicrn ( cia.l n( ( iirrnland, and dir ihrury
was tnianintonsly arrr-pird dial -an h innsl liavr hr'H ihc la( I,
ami had Linkwood ami lli.nn.iid Itnl [misIkmI ah»a«l and
passed Capo Koluil Litirnhi llify would iiifvilaldy havo
Innnd a sonlhoily lif-nd In lli'( nasi, and a )oiiiii»y noj;i«';i|rf
ill (lislanco than thai tliry had alusidy niado norlhwaid Ironi
lluir vvinlor ron<l;v.v<Mis at (ape ( nnuer, < niipled with llio
advanta^M' ni inoviiu; noaror the warmer latilndes, wnnld
have ^iven ihein the linnor ol < <)m|ile(inj^^j the < irtnniexplora'
tioii ol the ( Ireenland « nntineni.

Sei'jjeanI Ihainard ^dve:; as a reason Tor not pnshinjf ahead
the lad that their snpply ol lood wa-. ii'sirly exhanstfd, hiit
had ihal not l»een the ( ase they inijdil li.ive made an ellort lo
advance larther. It is apparent tiiat llir (jnestion of < ircnm
exploration of the eontinent ol (ir»"enlan(l is no lonj^jrr one
ol (lonl)t, I)nt simjily one ol snpplies lor three or four men.

I'or the lime Immiij^^ the «piestion of liie North l'o!e appears
lo have been set in the shade, and ihere is already iiiik h talk
ol miMniL; the efpiipmenl ol a small land or sledjje parly lo
uiulcrlake the eoinpleiion ol the exploralion ol the (oasl line
ol ("ire<'nland. The larlhesl land s(!en by l.o(l;wood (Cape
ivoberl Linroln) was latitude <SV .^o', in lon^ilndf' 35" yj' west
ol ihe in(M'idian of (ireenwich. I he hijdiest post ser-n on
the easlern eoast by lh(! seeoiid (i<-rman expedition, 1^70,
was lalilndc* 79", in lon^dtnde if>" west ol (ireenwidi, leaving
but a small space of 4" 30' in lalilnde and 2O" 30' in lon^d-
tiidc to be explored. As a d(;gree of lonoitnde on llu, [>aral-
icls of 79-»S3" nortli is but a very few mih.-s it will l)e seen
ihat a journey of the same leni(lh whi(:h Lock wood and
Hiainard had already mad(; would have l>rouj^ht them well
ilovvn the coast, within the inlluenc(! of the ocean current
which pass(;s nearer by and would have made their connection
with the fixed point of geographical knowledge on that coast,
Cape Bismarck, latitude 77°, a c(!rtainty. It will be urg(;d in
coniuxtion with the proposed expedition to Lady Franklin
bay to bring back the records and instruments of the Grccly
33

514

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

/lis

ifi

ii"

Scat I i.k .wl

party, left at Fort Cong^er, to equip a sledge party and start
tht^'iii out on this Greenland expedition.

Intense interest is felt in the subject amonj^^ scientists and
geographers. The opportunity to crown the brilliant labors
of Greely and Lockvvood and their heroic companions with
this one grand culmination is one which it is thought the
United States should not fail to improve, as the expense
would be small and the objects and results would be quite
different from the bare discovery of the North Pole, by having
an economic as well as scientific value.

Robert T. Lincoln, Secretary of War, in his annual report to
Congress, gives the following remarks regarding the Greely
expedition :

"The Chief Signal Officer describes with sufficient detail the
events connected with the closing of the work of exploration
in the Arctic regions and the return of the survivors of the
party under Lieutenant Greely. The survivors were relieved
at Cape Sabine on June 22, 1884, by a naval expedition under
the command of Commander W. S. Schley. The zeal and
enterprise of the relieving expedition were such as to entitle
all its officers and men to the highest commendation ; and
while it reached Cape Sabine at the earliest possible moment,
the final catastrophe to the few survivors of Lieutenant
Greely's party was, but for the rescue, only a few hours dis-
tant. The Greely party numbered twenty-five persons, of
whom only seven were rescued alive, and one died after the
rescue. Of the dead, all perished from starvation except an
Esquimau, who was drowned, and Private Henry, who was
executed by order of Lieutenant Greely for repeated thefts
of food from the insufficient supply of the enfeebled and dis-
tressed company.

" The Secretary of War observes with regret that the Chief
Signal Officer has chosen to make, in his annual report, a
formal expression of opinion that, after the arrival of the
wrecked Proteus party on September 13, 1883, at St. John's,
there was still time, * as known from previous experience and
shown by subsequent facts, to send efficient relief/ stating
that • Captein Melville and others volunteered to go, giving
their full plans for the relief.'

"A contention as to what would have been the probable re-
sult of an expedition to the Arctic regions started in the au-
tumn, with such preparations as could be made after the mid

FUTURE EXPEDITIONS.

515

<i1e of September, is now useless for any practical purpose,
but a few words may properly be given to the subject, as
there may be persons whose humane consideration for the
terrible situation in which Lieutenant Greely and his party
existed for months may not be accompanied by a knowledge
of the opinion of experienced persons as to the danger of
disaster and the little hope of success of any attempt to ap-
proach him at that season.

"The Proteus party, after the wreck of that ship, reached
St. John's September 13, 1883. Lieutenant Garlington, in
charge of the party, was on that day asked by telegraph
whether anything more could be done that year. He replied,
on September 14: * By the time suitable vessels could be
procured, filled, provisioned, etc., it would be too late in sea-
son to accomplish anything this year.' Notwithstanding this
response, on the same day, by direction of the Secretaries of
War and of the Navy, a further telegram was sent to Lieu-
tenant Garlington asking for full replies from himself and
from Commander Wildes, commanding the United States
steamer Yantic, upon certain questions propounded, and
further asking whether it was a feasible project to charter a
steam-sealer to go northward, the telegram making also some
suggestions as to the outfitting of the ship and men. To
this Lieutenant Garlington replied by telegraph, September
15th, at length, saying, among other things: 'The ultimate re-
sult of any undertaking to go north at this time extremely
problematical ; chances against its success, owing to dark
nights, now begun in those regions, making ice-navigation
extremely critical work. There is no safe winter anchorage
on west shore of Greenland between Disco and Pandora
Harbor, except, perhaps. North Star Bay, winter-quarters of
Saunders. However, there is a bare chance of success, and
if my recommendations are approved I am ready and anxious
to make the effort.' He then made suggestions as to hiring
a steam-sealer, and how it was to be commanded and manned.
Commander Wildes replied in these words, under date of
September 15th: 'To charter another foreign ship with for-
eign crew for this duty to go north at this late season would
simply invite fresh disaster. . . . Ship must be American
manned and officered by navy and thoroughly equipped.
Unless winter-quarters can be reached north of Cape Athol,
the attempt would be useless. This cannot be done. Mel-

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516

AUCTIC FXPI,(lRATIONS.

ville liay will be impassabU; by October fst, at latest. Shin
cannot winter at Upernavik uiul cannot sledge north from
there'

" Under date of September 14, 1883, Chief-KnginecT Gi^or-re
W. Melville, United States Navy, submitted a propositi
method of relief for the Greely party, which was in substance
to use the steamship Yantic, but there was no suggestion in
his proposition of any hope of getting the Yantic fartjjor
north than Cape; York, his plan being to sledge northwanl
from there. Under date of September 15, 1883, Dr. James
Laws, who was surgeon in the Hartstene expedition sent out
to the relief of Dr. Kane in 1855, strongly urged the utter
impracticability, from his e;xperience, of any expedition, how-
ever well fitted, being able to reach a point where it could be
of the slightest service to the Greely party. He said that be-
fore an expedition could reach the shores of Greenland it
would be dangerous to proceed above Disco Island. CajMaiii
George E. Tyson, who, as is well known, was with Hall's last
expedition, and was in command of the party which floated
down from the Arctic regions on an ice-floe, offered his ser-
vices to lead an expedition, but he made no suggestion to l;o
in the autumn of 1883. On the contrary, he expressed, in
personal conference, his firm conviction of the impracticability
and danger of undertaking such an expedition in the autumn.

"Persons whc>s!; experience and studies gave their opinions
weight were personally consulted by the Secretaries of War
and of the Navy, among them being Captain Greer, United
States Navy, who went to Littleton Island in 1873, in com-
mand of the Tigress, in search of some of the company of
the wrecked Polaris, and Doctor Emil Bessels, who was in
charge of the scientific work of the Polaris, and after Its wreck
in 1872 spent the winter at Life-Boat Cove. Upon consider-
ation of all information, the conclusion was inevitable that,
under the most favorable conditions, a vessel might readi
Upernavik, but that it could go no farther north in that
season. This point is about seven hundred miles from Lit-
tleton Island, and the stretch of water and land between is
impassable for boats or sledges after the ist of October, and
oftentimes after the ist of September. The Arctic night be-
gins at Upernavik about the middle of October, and it was
considered that, setting aside all questions of its own perils,
the best that a new relief expedition at that time could do

FUTUKIC r.XrKIHTIONS.

517

woiilil l)t." to go a part of the way antl wait for the next sum-
iiK r to resume the jouriuy. Tlie tt'stiinony was conclusive
that sledging nortli Ironi Upernavik was impossible.

"The cleplorahU; siuiation of tlu; (Jriu'ly i)arty then feared
l)iil since known to exist, did not lessen the perils which
would have beset any r(.'li(;f party started at the be_L;inning of
an Arctic winter. Ihe Secri;tary of War knows of no one
whose opinion would be consid(;red, except the Chief Signal
Officer, who would not have regarded such an expedition not
only as substantially hopeless for any relief earlier than was
actually given, but perilous in the extreme, if not foolhardy.

" Nothing is more illustrative of the impossibility of over-
coming at all times the difficulties of Arctic travel, whether by
land or sea, than the fact that two-thirils of Lieutenant Greely's
party starved to death at Cape Sabine with one hundred and
fifty pounds of meat untouched at Cape Isabella, distant
about thirty miles, and with two hundred and fifty rations un-
touched at Littleton Island, at about the same distance, but
separated by Smith's Sound. It probably never occurred to
any one that the Greely party could not easily reach and use
both of these stores.

"The conclusion reached, after most anxious and careful
consideration, was, on the 19th of September, 1883, embodied
in a written memorandum of the Secretary of War and the
Secretary of the Navy, which was given in full in my last an-
nual report, and which was in part as follows :

"'The Secretaries of War and the Navy have decided that
it is not practicable to send another expedition to the lelief
of Lieutenant (ireely this year. They have consulted chose
persons of Arctic experience who are recognized as the. best
authorities, and who are near enough to be reached, and have
received letters from some who are more distant. These
consultations lead to the conviction that little can be accom-
plisiied after October 20th, when there are but few hours of
daylight in that region. It is doubtful if any vessel could
reach Upernavik before that date on account of the ice, the
rapidly shortening days, and the increasing cold. The dan-
ger of wrecking a new relief party in its attempt to reach this
place is far greater than should be incurred lor the chance of
rendering any aid to Greely. From Upernavik no aid could
be given except by sledging, ami this is regarded a > totally
impracticable.- The short marches and the long halLs, con>-

iS- ,

»;)

518

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

pelled by the darkness, would force the sledging^ parties to
consume so much food while accomplishing brief daily jour-
neys, that they could afford no succor to Greely, and haviiio-
no depots on the way to draw on, they would soon be coni-
pelled to fall back to avoid starvation. Some have suggest<;(|
sending a vessel to Cape York, but no one advises that it ran
be reached without imminent peril to the vessel and all on
board; and from that point, if attained, the impossibility of
sledging is again encountered. The distance from Littleton
Island to Cape York is about 225 miles, and to Upernavik
550, and to Disco 800.'

"It may be added that the Secretary of War, while deplor-
ing the terrible loss of life incurred by the Lady Franklin
Bay expedition, has never seen reason to doubt the propriety
of these conclusions reached by the Secretary of the Navy
and himself, upon all the considerations which were available
to them.

" To some of the criticisms made by the Chief Signal Officer
in hir report no reference seems to be required, beyond say-
ing that the Proteus Court of Inquiry, so called, had the merit
of basing its conclusions as to the officers with whom it dealt
upon such information of facts and conditions as was attain-
able by the officers. themselves at the time of their action, as
well as by the court. But the expression of the Chief Signal
Officer, abjve referred to, is an intrusion of an official opinion
as to the propriety of the course of the Secretaries of War
and of the Navy in not hazarding more lives in 1883 in a
nearly hopeless adventure, upon his telegraphic requests.
This excursion into an official jurisdiction beyond his own, and
his dictum upon the exercise of a superior responsibility
which he was not invited to share are extraordinary in their
time and pkice, and are hardly excusable even under what-
ever of irritation may have been caused by the findings of the
Proteus Court of Inquiry. Wa.ving, however, that consider-
ation, if there had at the time been given more weight to the
views of that branch of the public service, under whose man-
agement there had been one futile and one disastrous expe-
dition in the northern seas in two successive years, than to
the views of men having experience in such matters, it is now
hardly to be doubted that we would have had last summer the
news of two Arctic calamities instead of one. It is not thought
that the public would wish better evidence of this than is to

FUTURE EXPEDITIONS.

519

be found in the official report of Commander Schley, from
"/hich I quote :

" ' In view of the disaster to the Lady Franklin Bay expe-
dition at Cape Sabine, and the conclusion of the department
last year that it was impracticable to send aiK)ther vessel
north after the Yantic's return to St. John's, September 13,
1883, with the report of the loss of the Proteus, I would state
that the past winter in Melville Bay was the most severe ex-
perienced for thirty years.

'"The winter began earlier than usual, and continued with
great severity late into the spring of 1884. About the equi-
nox (September 21st) cold weather set in, and the tempera-
ture steadily fell at Disco, Upernavik, and Tessuisak until 60°
below zero (Fah.) was reached. This continued for a period
of sixty consecutiv days. Melville Bay was frozen over as
far as could be seen from these three points early in October.
As the season of continual darkness had come on by October,
the navigation of this region would have been well nigh im-
possible even if the bay had been open. Under the circum-
stances any vessel attempting this navigation would have
come to grief, if she had not been totally lost.

"*It can be seen now in the light of this nev; information
that the action of last year was wise and proper.' "

Lieutenant Greely has laid down his opinion upon the
advisability and propriety of future Arctic expeditions in the
followinc^ article:

"There are five routes by which attempts have been made
to reach the goal of Arctic ambition — the North Pole. The
Beliring's Straits route has probably been closed for many a
year by the unfortunate issue of the expedition which was
commanded by the lamented DeLong, The highest latitude
ever reached in that direction was by DeLong in the
Jeannette. The lack of land to the northwest forbids any
attempt in that quarter, for all authorities on Arctic explora-
tion are quite agreed that land is essential to success. In ad-
dition, the southeast current very largely increases the danger,
for a vessel once beset by the pack inevitably drifts to de-
struction. No ship which has been caught in that ice has
ever escaped from its grasp, and no hero has ever returned
to tell the tale until the indomitable will and tireless energy
of DeLong, Chipp and Melville landed the survivors of the
Jeannette on the Siberian coast 600 miles from their lost

530

AKcnc Kxri.ouAnoNs.

Ill •, ' -1

\ iv «

f !'l:.f

vessel. To the nortluvest the lerrihle cliarac Icr of the
paUeocrystio i)ack nu't by McCliire ami Collins on tin- W( ,i
coast ol H. ink's Laiul is ecjually unlavorahle. Imleed. slutnld
an atlonipt be in.ule in that quarter, it should rather be liom
Hatrtn's l^ay through Lancaster Sound and McClure's Strut.
in the ho|>e that a safe harbor could be lound at l^rince I'.u
rick Island. It was by this route that Parry in iSk) succcctlcij
in reachini^ Winter Harbor, ^b•lville Islaiul, in a sailino ship,
and returned without troid)le in the lollowinj; year. In my
opinion, lunvev(M*, no prolitabU; or successhil Arctic work c iii
be prosecuted in the luture in either (juadranl to the nonh
ward of Behrino's Straits.

"Second — The Smith Sound route. Hy this route the
nearest appro.iclu's to the Pole by lanil and sea have been
maile — on June 30. 1S72, Seroeant Myer, U. S. Army, ol tho
Polaris expedition, reacheil 82^07' on the shores of the I'olar
Ocean, near Repulse Harbor. in May, 1S76, Lieutenant
AKlrich, R. N., reacheil the northerif point of Cjrinnell Laiul,
Capt! Columbia. S;*^ oj' north, yo"^ 10' west. On May 1 :,
1S76, Commander Markham. R. N.. reached S3'' 20' 2()" iiortli
on the (ro/.en Polar Ocean, at that time the j^reatest norlhiiin
ever mad(!. This latitude was surpasseil by Lieutenan't
James B. Lockwood, U. S. Army who, carryino" kuul tweiuy-
eii^-ht miles farther north than e\.r before known, rc'.uluxl
S^'' 24' May 18, 1S82. on the north coast of (ireiMiland.

" Tiiis has been called distinctively the American route, but
in my opinion it is not the true road to the Pole, it has,
however, been practically closetl by AKlrich's remarkablt; trip
on the shores of the Polar Ocean to the wi'stward from
Robeson's Channel, and by Lockwood's mannilictMit and nu-
paralleled journey aloni;- the north coast of Oreenlaiul.
Another properly appointed expedition by this route wouKl
require two staunch vc'ssels, with thorough outfit, (•ni.iilinof
an expense of about $750,000. By skillful manaL^cinciU,
hard work, and, above all, \:;ood fortune, it could hope to
beat Lockwood's latitude but a few miles, certainly not a
decree. A sins^le bad yiMr for ice to the northwanl ot
Smith's Souml would insure failure, if it tlid not cause ilirr
disaster. It is true tliat much work necnls to be done to the
westward of Hayes' Sound, in the vicinity of Arthur Land,
but in that direction no hioh latitude could be attaintHJ.
The Lady I'Vanklin Bay expedition, which 1 had the honor

FirniKK KXPKnnioNS.

52'

to (Oininaiul, tliscovcMcd th.»> Cape Sal)in<' is on an island
(lU'dionl I'im Islaiul) and is scpaiaUul Iroiu die main coast
by kicc Strait, whicli ronncrts Rossr liay and lUichanan
Strait. By this rontc a vessel can safely reach Ah'xaiuhia
Haven from Cocked I lat Ishuul hy watch inj^^ her opportunity.
I'loin tliat base I hiyes' Soun»l antl its connecting waters can
he easily exphireil. Such a voyaj^c wouUI entail less danger
than is conse(pient on an ordinary vvhalinj^ cruise.

•'TIk^ third route is up the east loast ol (ireenland. It was
strongly advocated by the eminent ^coLjrapher. the late Dr.
i'ctermann, who fitted out th(' (lerman expedition of i<S6cS
ami assisted in tlu^ second expetlition of iSfx). Both ex-

ilitions were loinmaiuled hy Captain Koldeney. 'I'he
hiirhcst known latitude evirr attainetl on this coast was r< ached
by Koldenc-y and Vayvv in 1S70 — Cap(^ Bismarck, 77". The
radical objection to this route is the wide belt of heavy atid
impenetrable drift ice alonj; the (oast, which is continually
ri'n(!wed by tlu! imnu^nst! cpianlities of ic(; driftinj^ southward
from the Polar Basin. As far as I know no one now advo-
cates it.

^ "I'ourth — The Spit/.lK.'ri^(Mi route offers a chance, thoui^h it
Im; a sliLjht one, of a very hi^di latitude;. It was here 'hat .Sir
luhvaril Barry, in 1S27, leavinj^ I brda Cove, .Spit/luTj^cn,
;{/ 55' north, 16" 53' east, reached on July :?3, by boat and
slcdi^u', 82" 45' north. This latitude remained unsurpass(;d
for lifty years, till beaten l)y Markham in 1876, who in turn
i^iive way to Lockwood in US82. OwiiiL,^ to the southerly
drill, Barrv's extreme point was but 172 mil(;s from his ship,
altiu)u^h . had trav(dled lu^arly 500 miles, ex( lusive (>f(loid)le
trips over the same road. 1 believe that by this route in a
very favorable season, say one year in ten or twelve, a well-
niauned whaler could reach 84" or 85" nortli without serious
(liffh ilty. .Such a voyaj^e would entail the ( hances of an
entanglement in tiie pack, with tlu; j)()ssible tleslruction of the
vessel, as hap|)ened to the 1 lansa. Uniler such circ/mstances,
however, as the drift is southerly, ultimate (escape; by vesse^l
or boats would, in all probability, b(; leisible. Involving as it
(Iocs, a violation of th(; fundamcMtal principles of Arctic navi-
ijjaiion, and entailiny; <j^reat nnd serious risks, such an expedi-
tion is not to be recommended.

"Sir Kdward Barry, the most successful of Arctic t:xplorers,
after his remarkable voyage in 181 9-20 throui^h I .ancaster and

522

ARcric i:xrL()U Allows.

other sounds to Melville Island, enunciated the law of sue.
cessful ice navigation in the Polar seas. He said : ' It can
never be performed with any degree of certainty without a
continuity of land. It was only by watching the openinirs
between the ice and the shore that our late progress to tin;
westward was effected, and, had the lantl continued in tlu;
desired direction, there can be no question that we should
have continued to advance, however slowly, toward the com-
pletion of our enterprise.*

" I think all Arctic authorities now concur in Sir Edward's
opinion, '^'o thi.> has been added another proposition, which
originated, I believe, with Sherard Osborne, but has of late
years been strenuously supported by Commander Markham,
R. N. : 'To penetrate far into the unknown region, it is ne-
cessary to find a coast trending northward with a western
Biipect.' This is negatively substantiated, not only by the
loss of the Jeannette, but by the fact that the shores of East
Greenland are practically inaccessible, while Spitzbergen can
rarely, if ever, be coasted along its eastern side. Positive and
convincing evidence is presented by Barent's voyage to the
north point of Nova Zembla, Parry's to Melville Island, Mc-
Clure's to Mercy Bay, Kane's to Van Rensselaer Harbor,
Hall's to Thank God Harbor, Nares' to Floeberg Beach,
Leigh Smith's to Eira Harbor, as well as by the whalers'
yearly exp'^riences in reaching the north water of Baffin's
Bay. The cause of this may in a measure depend on the
rotary motion of the earth or other complicated phenomena,
but a reasonable explanation is, perhaps, to be found in the
northeasterly winds which prevail to such an extent in the
Arctic regions.

" Long sledge journeys are necessary for successful ex-
ploration even after the vessel is in harbor at a high latitude.
The easier the harbor is of access, so much greater will be
the chances of ultimate success. These conditions — continu-
ity of land, with northern trend and western aspect, a secure
harbor easy of access, together with good ice for sledginir
operations — are all fulfilled in the fifth route, via Franz Josef
Land.

" Ever ^nce my attentioi. was first drawn to Arctic work 1
have regarded this as the true route to the Pole. The voyage
and experiences of Leigh Smith in 1880, 1881, and 1882, leave
no doubt that at some season of every year Franz Josef Land

l-UIUKI-: KXI'KDITroNS.

523

may he. reached by a wcll-fittrd stramcr. His cxpcricncfs at
I'iira Harbor in the winter of 1881-82, show tliat the <;x[)lorer
can depend to a certain ext('nt on the jjjame of the country as
a means of sustenance. IJeutenant Payer's sledjj^e trips of
1884 indicate a much jj^reater proportion of smootli ice tlian
has been found in any other route;. In thirty chiys he made
a round trip of about 325 miles, reaching, April i, 1874, Cape
Fedgely, 82° 05' N., 58° \L I'Vom that point he observed
open water of no great (;xtent along the coast bordered by
ice, reaching in a north and northwesterly direction to masses
of land, whose mean distance; from this highest point might
be from sixty to seventy miles.

" Cape Vi(;nna, the most northerly point seen by Payer, is
laid down by him as situated on the 83d parallel. The ex-
tent oX land beyond that point is, of course, problematical.
The distance from the southern coast of PVanz Josef Land to
the northernmost point of Nova Zembla is about 180 miles.
In case of disaster, a retreat by boat is practicable. Wey-
precht, in 1874, after the abandonment of the Tegetthof, and
Leigh Smith, retreating in 1882, in consequence of the loss
, of the Eira, made the journey successfully.

"This route then presents unusual chances of success with
the minimum of danger. It is more than possible that an
English expedition will enter these waters. Chief-Engineer
Melville, U. S. N., has in view an expedition by this route,
and his varied Arctic experiences and indefatigable energy
mark him as a man peculiarly fitted for this work. It is, there-
fore, to be hoped that he will be given the desired oppor-
tunity. Two ships, with about sixty men and officers, would
be needed. One vessel should winter in Eira Harbor or some
secure point near by, while the; second should be puslicd as
far northward as possible, preferably by Austria and Rawlin-
.son's Sound, but, if that is not possible, along the west coast
of Franz Josef Land beyond Cape Ludlow. The vessels should
be provisioned for three years, and the crews should be quar-
tered in temporary houses to be erected on shore. Quarters
on land are recommended as being freer from moisture than
is possible on shipboard, a fact which to my mind has an im-
portant bearing on the question of health. A depot of sup-
plies for use in case of disaster might be established on the
northern coast of Nova Zembla. With two vessels this would
not be indispensable, but none the less wise and prudent.

}

i I

lit

■If! '1 " ■

'''I' 5 ^

524

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

"Although not a seaman, I think the following views fairly
cover the essential points regarding vessels and navigation :
Small, easily-handled steam-whalers, of good speed, should be
selected. 1 have nothing to say as to the best method of
strengthening them, but presume those adopted in regard to
the vessels of the recent relief expedition leave nothing to be
desired in that direction. It is essential that each vessel have
a steam whale-boat. It is universally admitted that naviga-
tion is impossible through close pack ice. In consequence,
the utmost care should be taken to avoid besetment. Ross
has truly said, that patience and caution are indispensable to
an Arctic navigator, and to no greater advantage can these
qualities be exercised than in avoidance of dense pack ice.
A ship should maintain almost constant motion, and only moor
when absolutely necessary, and then only to an iceberg.
Careful observations of the currents and of the ebb and flow
of the tide are of the greatest importance. Marked move-
ments of the ice are more liable to occur after the turn of the
tide, and the probable effect of such changes must be foreseen
and discounted. It was mainly by increasing watchfulness of
winds, currents, and tides, and by sound judgment regarding
their effects, that Sir George Nares succeeded in working his
vessel from Sabine to the Polar Ocean and back during two
unfavorable ice seasons. It was from similar observations
that I was enabled during the retreat in 1883, ^^ ^ ^^^^ un-
favorable year, and on the same coast, to bring my boats in
safety from Discovery Harbor to Cape Hanks.

"The expedition should receive its final supplies from
Tromsoe, and should not leave that port before the latter part
of July. August and September there, as in Smith Sound,
are undoubtedly the most favorable months^ for ice navigation.
In case of a bad year for ice, the vessels should rather return,
to renew the expedition the year following, than adventure
the experiences of the Tegetthof. The question whether
dogs or men should be employed in hauling is debatable,
among Arctic men. I unhesitatingly assert, that with do<j[s
nearly double the distance can be made that is possible with
men. Shelter, fuel, drink, sleeping-gear and extra clothing,
which form so large a proportion ot constant weight, are not
needed for dogs. Lockwood's great northing was made by
a combination, the supporting sledges being drawn by men.

the advance sledge by dogs.

He travelled far enough in

FUTURE EXPEDITIONS.

525

ws fairly
/iofation :
hould be
sthod of
egard to

,t naviga-
sequence,
nt. Ross
msable to
can these

pack ice.
only moor
ri iceberf^.
b and flow
iced move-
turn of the
De foreseen
hfulness of
t regarding
tvorking his

during two

bservations

a hke un-

ny boats in

ninety days the first spring, after the sun's return, with his
single team of seven dogs, to have reached the Pole and re-
turn, had it been in a straight line. In 1883, depending on
dogs alone, he reached the shores of the Polar Ocean in less
than half the time taken by men and dogs combined the pre-
vious year.

•' The qualification of the commander of an expedition need
not be dwelt on. Much and varied previous service is indis-
pensable, but, in addition, he should be a man who has care-
fully studied the plans and equipment of all his predecessors
in active work. He should not be above five and forty.
Subordinate officers should be under thirty-five, enterprising,
fond of field-service, and thoroughly dependable — men who
will work loyally and faithfully under any and all circum-
stances, and never give mere passive obedience. Officers
with variec! talents and special training should be selected.
One should be a photographer. The men should be as far
as practicable of one nationality, of sociable nature, sunny dis-
position, intelligent, observant, self-reliant, patient, persever-
ing, and moral, and of that class which has seen some hard
service. They should be unmarried, and between twenty-five
and thirty-five years of age. No man should be taken who
has ever been addicted to the use of stimulants. Only in ex-
ceptional cases should a man be enlisted who had served in a
previous expedition. They should be selected and kept under
discipline some time before sailing, in order that those unfit
might be weeded out. Some should be good hunters, and as
many useful trades represented as possible. Perfect health
is necessary, but especial attention should be given in medical
examination to the condition of the eyes, lungs, teeth, circula-
tion of blood, and as to rheumatic tendencies.

" Regarding food, there should be a great variety, and no
set programme as to the order in which it is to be issued.
Calculations should be made for five pounds per man daily,
and one and one-half pounds per dog. Bacon, corned (not
salted) beef, ham, and pemmican are the standard meats.
Freshly-killed meat should be taken in large quantities in
refrigerators. Birds killed by us in July in Greenland were
eaten the next June at Conger. Soups, canned and dried
fruits and vegetables of all kinds are especially important.
Fresh bread should be had daily. Macaroni, condensed milk,
oatmeal, butter, lard, cheese, pickles, preserves, condiments

■<■■

I'l

IHi

ilHi

526

ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

regular use

and tobacco should be liberally provided. The
of highwines should be discountenanced. About one gill
weekly per man was consumed by my party, but I should
recommend not exceeding half a gill more, or preferably half
a pint of vin ordinaire. For dogs, dried fish or meat must be
provided ; they will not eat dog or other biscuit unless nearly
starved. Wiiile working meat should always be fed to theqi.
The value and utility of skin clothing has been largely over-
rated. Thick woollen garments of smooth finish, and heavy
flannel underclothing of excellent quality, are enough for all
ordinary travel. For unusual exposure, an overcoat slightly
lined with dogskin or a heavy woollen temiak (a hooded
shirt, generally of sealskin) is sufficient. Any well-lined skull-
cap, with ear-flaps, will do for head covering. No satisfactory
means of protecting the face is known. Woollen, with outer
sealskin mittens, form fitting hand-gear. No single kind of
foot-gear is suitable for all conditions. Moccasins and Es-
quimau seal boots should be taken in quantities. Leather
boots do well in summer only. Heavy woollen stockings,
half short, and half reaching to the knees, are best for general
use. Sleeping socks should be of dogskin. Well-tanned,
selected buffalo robes made into two-men sleeping-bags are
best.

"The Greenland and the Siberian sledges are recommended
for dogs. In case hauling is to be done by men, then the
McClintock and Hudson Bay sledges should be taken. The
Melville sled is excellent for retreat where heavy boats are
to be hauled. Sledges are inexpensive, and conditions of
travel so vary that all contingencies should be provided
against. Alcohol is the best field fuel. Copper-bottomed,
fireproof cooking-pots, with cylinder in centre, are excellent
for sledge trips. There is but little choice regarding tentage,
but rubber tent-cloths should be taken.

" Regarding medicines, iron was most in demand with my
party, except lime-juice daily issued. I doubt governmental
aid being extended to Arctic exploration for years to come,
but none the less believe in the propriety and certainty of
future Arctic work.

"The expedition suggested by Lieutenant Ray, United
States Army, at the meeting of the British Society for the
Advancement of Science at Montreal, should receive the
attention and support of scientific men. The magnetic pole

FUTURE EXPEDITIONS.

527

of Bothnia Felix Land, located by Ross in 1831, has probably
changed its position in the past fifty years. Its re-location
would be an important contribution to science. With a home
station at Repulse Bay, or in Wager River, I believe this work
could be done without great expense or serious danger. The-
benefits to be derived from such an expedition would not be
confined to terrestrial magnetism. As regards the ethnology,
botany, and natural history, the country around King Wiii/am
Land is substantially a blank.

"A. W. Greely. U. S. a.'*

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

CHAPTER I.

EXPEDITIONS TO THE ANTARCTIC REGIONS.

The South Polar Regions even more Inhospitable than the Arctic — An \ntarctic Summer
—Search for Terra Australis — First Voyage Around Cape Horn — Captain Cook's Expe-
dition to Inscover the Northwest Passage — His Arrival at the Sandwich Islands — Mur-
dered — Captain Gierke takes Charge of the Expedition — The New Shetland Islands —
The Russian Sea Captain Hellinghausen Reaches a very Southern Point — Expeditions of
Captain D'Urville of the French and Lieutenant Wilkes of the United Slates Navy —
"ctoria Land.

The cause why the South Pole has not received the atten-
tion which has been lavished on the North Pole is to be
found in the fact, that while the Arctic regions do not present
many attractions for travel, and even less for residence or
setdement, the Antarctic regions are still more unpromising
and unattractive in both particulars. The extreme intensity of
Antarctic cold commences at a much higher latitude than in
the Northern hemisphere. In the Arctic seas large icebergs
are rarely found till the 70th parallel of latitude is reached,
while stationary fields are only met in a still higher latitude.
In the South Pacific both occur at from 50° to 60° of southern
latitude. The mountains of Cape Horn, of 1 erra del Fuego,
and oLidying islands, are covered with perpetual snow quite
to their sea-coasts. " This contrast," says P ofessor Tomlin-
son, in one of the few general works we possess on the sub-
ject, " has been ascribed to the shorter stay which the sun
makes in the southern hemisphere than in the northern. But
this difference, amounting to scarcely eight days, has been
proved to be exactly compensated by the greater nearness of
the earth to the sun during the southern than during the
northern summer. Another cause must therefore be sought,
and as it is a fact that water becomes less heated by the same
amount of sunshine than any solid substance, this cause will
be found in the vast extent of the Antarctic seas, the total

•>i

It':'

I w. m

nil

':ii

2 ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

absence of any great surface of land, and the form of the
continents which terminate towards the south almost in poiius,
thus openinjj a free and unencumbered field to the currL-nts
from the Polar seas, and allowing them to push forward the
icy masses in every direction from the South Pole towards
the southern and temperate zone."

Winter in the Antarctic corresponds to summer in the
Arctic, and vue versa. When the Arctic circle is delighting
in one long summer day, the Antarctic regions are oppressed
by the darkest gloom. When we are enjoying the bright
days of midsummer, the southern Polar regions are pitchy
dark, while at our Christmas-tide that part of the earth is
bathed in floods of sunshine.

It has been seen that our knowledge of the North Polar
seas has been largely the result of explorations in search of
a northwestern or northeastern passage or strait to the Pacific.
The exploration of the Antarctic regions is mainly due to
quests after a continent in the southern seas — the 7hra
Ausira/is incognita of many old geographers. The belief in
the existence of such a land can be traced back as far as 1576,
when Juan Fernandez is reported to have sailed southward
from Chile, and to have arrived after a month's voyage at a
charming fertile land inhabited by friendly and almost civilized
natives. If the story be not altogether apocryphal, it may
possibly have been some part of New Zealand. At the same
period there were wild reports in circulation concerning the
discovery by Alvaro Mendana de Neyra of some southern
islands abounding in silver. That navigator, however, could
not find them at all in a later voyage, and perished miserably,
with many of his companions, at Egmont, or Santa Cruz
Island. His pilot, Pedro Fernandez de Quiros, in 1605-6
made a professed voyage in search of the southern continent,
his voyage resulting in the discovery of Pitcairn's Island, the
New Hebrides, and other lands, while one of his captains,
Luis Vaes de Torres, passed through the strait between
Australia and New Guinea now named after him. The first
actual approach to the then unknown southern polar lands
appears to have been made by one Dirk Gerritz, a Dutdi-
man, in January, 1600. This vessel was in the East India
service, and was driven by a gale from the immediate latitude
of the Straits of Magellan far to the south, where he dis-
covered a barren, craggy, snow-covered coast, similar to that

)rm of the
5t in points,
le currents
orward the
)le towards

mer in the
5 deli^^hting
e oppressed
r the bright
s are pitcliy
the earth is

North Polar
in search of
to the Pacific,
nainly due to
s — the Terra
The belief in
as far as 1576,
ed southward
i voyage at a
Imost civilized
ryphal, it may
At the same
oncerning the
ome southern
owever, could
led miserably,
,r Santa Cruz
js, in 1605-6
ern continent,
's Island, the
his captains,
[trait between
\m. The first
jrn polar lands
Irritz, a Dutch-
he East India
[ediate latitude
vhere he dis-
iimilar to that

THE ANTARCTIC REGIONS. 3

of Norway. His accounts were discredited, but have since
proved to have been accurate cnoui^h, and the land is now
known as New South Shetland, and lias been proved to cross
the Antarctic circle. The expeditions of Ker<;uelen, sent out
for the purpose of explorinij^ the southern regions, resulted
only in the discovery of the group of islands now known by
his name. It is to the celebrated Captain Cook that we owe
the earliest careful exploradons of the south polar regions.

The States-General of the Netherlands were sharers in the
profits of the trading company they had established, and had
ordained that none but the servants of the company should
go to the Spice Islands. As an added protection, the routes
by the Cape of Good Hope and the Straits of Magellan
were by law reserved for their exclusive use. The other
merchants might traffic all the world over with these trifling
restrictions, but to steer their barks by either of these routes
entailed the penalty of confiscation of the vessels and arrest
of the owners. Schonten, a navigator of experience and
ability, conceived the project of finding a passage south of the
Straits of Magellan. Assisted in the enterprise by Lemaire,
who also accompanied him as supercargo, or perhaps as cap-
tain, of one of the vessels, and some other merchants of
Horn in Holland, Schonten, in 1615, fitted out two" vessels,
and made the first voyage by way of the American Cape,
which he called Horn, in honor of the town in Holland where
the expedition had been organized.

The strai^t between Terra del Fuego and Staten Island —
that is, island of the States in Holland, also so named by
Schonten — he named in honor of his companion, Lemaire,
who, for all that, it appears was himself its actual discoverer.
After many adventures and discoveries in the islands of the
Pacific, they arrived in safety at the Moluccas, in sixteen
months from the day of their departure from the Texel.
Their vessels were confiscated by the East India Company,
and the officers and crew sent home for trial. Lemaire,
disappointed and excessively chagrined at such a reward for
the services rendered, and the discoveries made by himself
and companion, died on the voyage home, at Mauritius, in
1 61 6. Schonten, less sensitive than his patron, the merchant,
and, as an experienced captain, more accustomed to the arbi-
trary proceedings of the officials of the great Dutch company,
lived to perform several routine voyages to the East, and

'' ?;

1 i-

4 ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

died in 1625, in the Bay of Antongil, on the east coast of
Madaq-ascar, where he had taken refuge from tempestuous
weather on his last return voyage — a hero of maritime explo-
ration not so celebrated as some, but worthy of being rescued
from oblivion.

Phipps' failure due north did not extinguish the hope of
finding a route from the Atlantic to the Pacific in the north-
west. The famous Captain Cook had won fresh laurels as a
navigator in 1772, and had been awarded the Copley medal
for his success in preserving the health of his men during his
voyage around the world. His courage, sagacity and ex-
perience pointed him out as the man for the contemplated
search voyage ; and having volunteered his services he was
gladly appointed to the command. His instructions were to
proceed to the North Pacific, to commence his search on tlie
northwest coast of America in latitude 65°, and to waste no
time in instituting researches in lower latitudes. The Res-
olution and Discovery we-e speedily fitted out, and the latter
placed under the subordinate command of Captain Edward
Clerke. Bayley and Anderson, companions of his former
voyage, accompanied Cook as astronomer and naturalist.

July 1 2th, 1776, Captain Cook left Plymouth, England,
and was joined by Captain Clerke in Table Bay, near the
Cape of Good Hope, some weeks later. It was the last day
of Noven.ber before they left the Cape, whence they pro-
ceeded eastward through the Indian Ocean, passing Prince
Edward's Island December 12th, and reachinof Kermielen
Land on the 24' h, ascertained it to be an island, and charac-
terized it as the Island of Desolation. For three hundred
leagues east of Kerguelen they were so beset by fog tliat it
was necessary to fire signal guns to avoid getting separated
in the dark. They arrived at Adventure Bay on the south
coast of Van Diemen's Land, now Tasmania, on the 26th of
January, 1777, and in Queen Charlotte's Sound, New Zea-
land, on the 1 2th of February. On the 25th they proceeded
northward, reaching Mangaia and Atioo, two of the Cook
Islands or Hervey Archipelago, on the 29th of March. The
season was now considered too far advanced to venture into
unknown seas with the prospect of achieving anything impor-
tant,, and Captain Cook decided on further exploration in the
tropics, postponing his northward trip until the following year.
They spent nearly three months in peaceable intercourse with

last coast of

tempestuous

iritime explo-

jeing rescued

the hope of
in the norili-
1 laurels as a
Copley medal
len during liis
acity and ex-
contemplated
irvices he was
[:tions were to
search on the
d to waste no
es. The Res-
and the latter
\ptain Edward
of his former
naturalist.
)uth, England.
3ay, near the
s the last day
nee they pro-
passing Prince
ing Kerguelen
nd, and charac-
three hundred
by fog tliat it
ting separated
y on the south
jn the 26th of
nd, New Zea-
they proceeded
of the Cook
f March, The
to venture into
nything impor-
iloration in the
following year,
ntercourse with

THE ANTARCTIC REGIONS. 5

the natives of the Tonga and Feejee groups, to which Cook
aave the collective name of Friendly Islands. On the 12th
of August they arrived at Tahiti or Otaheite, one of the So-
ciety Islands, to the southeast of the Friendly Islands. On
the 8th of December they again directed their course to the
northward from Bolabola, the most northern of the Society
group; and on the i8th of January, 177S, they discovered the
islands of the Hawaiian Archipelago. Cook named these the
Sandwich Islands, in honor of the first lord of the British ad-
miralty, John Montague, Earl of Sandwich, the chief promoter
of the voyage in which he was now engaged.

After a stay of several weeks Cook now directed his course
for the mainland of America, reaching the New Albion of
Drake, in latitude 44° ^t,', on March 7th. Coasting north,
they arrived at Nootka Sound, in latitude 49° 35'. The in-
habitants were found clad in furs, which they offered for sale,
and were civil to the strangers. They evinced an almost I'^ng-
hsh appreciadon of the rights of property, expecting pay for
everything that was taken, even the wood and water neces-
sary for the ships. They were acquainted with iron, but pre-
ferred brass, whence it came to pass that the sailors bartered
all their buttons for furs. In latitude 59° the natives were
fodud to resemble the Esquimaux of Hudson's Bay in lan-
guage as well as in physical appearance, and were not so
grasping in their dealings. In what has since been named
Cook's Inlet they thought to have found a passage to the
Northern Ocean, but found it penetrated only about 200
miles. Cook then sailed westward, and on the 9th of August
made the extreme northwestern point of America, to which
he gave the name of Cape Prince of Wales, distant from the
northeastern point of Asia, at Cape East, only thirteen leagues,
as ascertained by him. They landed among the Tchuktchi, but
did not tarry long, as they were anxious to push to the north
before the close of the season.

On the 1 8th of August, in latitude 70° 44', they came abreast
of the ice, which they found six feet high on the edge, and ex-
tending as far as the eye could reach, an impenetrable mass,
covered with walruses. Of these the sailors killed a con-
siderable number, glad to exchange the monotony of salt pro-
visions for the fresh but coarse flesh of these animals. Cook
now concluded to turn from the impracticable Northern Ocean
and turn his attention for a season to the further exploration

:t(

It: *

t,'^

I V ;

I >

f . ;!

6 ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

of the Sandwich Islands, On the 26th of November they
arrived at Movvee or Maui, an ishmd of that (j^roiip, which
they had not before visited, in latitude 20° 50', ant' on the
30th the large island of Owhyhee or Hawaii, which Cook
.spent seven weeks in circumnavigating and surveying. They
fmally anchored in Kealakeakua Bay, about the middh' of
January, 1779, and were visited by crowds of natives. The
relations of visitors and visited, of civilized English and st mi-
barbarous Hawaiian, were mutually pleasant; nodiing oc-
curred to mar the harmony of their intercourse, ancl the
opinions formed by each party of the other grew daily more
favorable, as weeks of acquaintance passed into monUis, niul
the English still lingered on their hospitable shores. Captain
Cook very justly felt that the failure to penetrate the North-
ern Ocean was more than compensated for by the discovery
of these islands. "To this disappointment," says he, "we
owed our having it in our power to visit the Sandwich Islands,
and to enrich our voyage with a discovery, which, though the
last, seemed in many respects to be the most important tliat
had hitherto been made by Europeans throughout the extent
of the Pacific Ocean."

I'rovisions were procured in abundance for the " (loatini;
islands," as the Hawaiians called them; and Cook was (luite
successful in salting a quantity of pork for sea stores, hinally
he prepared to sail around the islands to make an accurate
survey of the whole group, and weighed anchor on die 4th
of Septendjcr. But a storm arose soon after, which seriously
sprung the mainmast of the Resoludon, and they re-entered
the harbor for necessary repairs. In the short interval that
had elapsed the better disposed of the native population, with
most of their leaders or chiefs, had withdrawn into the in-
terior. The crews now came in contact with the more thiev-
ish and unprincipled of the Hawaiians, and quarrels became
almost incessant. A serious feud arose through the theft of
a pair of tongs from the forge of the ship's smith by an un-
principled native. The English sent in pursuit of tlu; lliief
were roughly handled by a mob, and on the heels of this re-
doubled outrage followed the theft of one of the ship's boats.
Captain Cook iiereupon determined to seize the king, Tereeo-
boo, and hold him as a hostage for the good behavior of his
people and the return of the stolen property.

On the 14th of February, 1779, he landed with a body of

THE ANTARCTIC REGIONS.

armed marines to carry out this resolution. The king offerc^d
no resistance, but with his two sons peacefully accompanied
thr luiy^lish to the shore, when the excited natives gathered
in crowds and prevented the embarkation. An accident pre-
cipitated the impending conflict. One of the armed English-
men at the other end of the bay fired a gun to stop a native
canoe that was about to ([uit the shore. Unfortunately,
tliroiigh misdirection of aim or oscillation of the canoe, the ■
shot that was intended to pass overhead killed a chief named
Kareemoo. The natives, taking this for a gage of battle, pre-
pared for war, brandished their knives, and put on their war
mats. Caj3tain Cook restrained his men, and they held back
their (ire till it was too late. Threatened by a native. Cook
himself fired his musket load(;d with small shot, which only
rendered his assailant more furious. The marines and the
crew now fired on the mob, but these were so closely packed
at the water's edge that they crowded each other on toward
their assailants, and in the melee four of the English were
kilh'd. The jam became so great that firearms were of but
litde use, and Cook was at the mercy of his cMiemies. He was
seen to make an effort to reach die boat, with one of the
natives in close pursuit, who, dealing him a stunning blow on
the head with a club, precipitately retreated. Cook fell on
one knee and dropped his musket, and, as he was rising, an-
other native stabbed him in the back of the neck with a dagger.
He then fell into the water, wh(Mi others crowded upon him to
keep him down. He was w-ithin twenty feet of the boat, but
the mass of his assailants was so dense, and the crew so con-
fused and panic-stricken, that he could not be rescued. He
struggled bravely with his foes and got his head al)ove water,
when they again pounced upon him with greater violence,
pushing him into deeper water. Again he forced his way to
the surface, but only to be struck down with a club, which ter-
minated the struggle. They dien hauled his lifeless remains
ashore and vied with each other in inflicting unnecessary
wounds upon their fallen victim.

The natives were soon advs dispersed, seeming to have
glutted their revenge by the. slaughter of Cook. Some time
elapsed before Captain Clerke could obtain the mutilated re-
mains for burial. They were committed to the deep with the
customary naval honors, and amid the sincere lamentations
of the afflicted crews. Captain Cook was specially solicitous
of the welfare of his men.

a ' . '

1 ii

' ^ ;

I'l s:; !

\ >'

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

Captain Gierke now assumed command of the expeJition,
intrusting his ship, the Discovery, to the immediate command
of Lieutenant Gore. They proceeded to the Northern Ocean,
touching at Petropaulovsky, in Avatcha Bay, on the coast of
Kamschatka, where they were received by the Russians with
marked hospitahty. Passing thence through Behring's Strait,
they reached latitude 70° 33', where they encountered the ice
some twenty miles lower than on the previous occasion.
They relinquished all further attempt in that direction, and
set sail for the homeward voyage. When they again reached
Kamschatka, Gaptain Gierke died, and was buried on shoie.
The command of the expedition then devolved upon Gaptain
Gore, with Lieutenant King in charge of the second vessel.
They arrived at Macao, at the mouth of the Ganton river, in
Ghina, December 3d, when they learned of the war between
England and her American colonies, aided by the French ;
and at the same time of the generous order of thr latter gov-
ernment that the vessels of Gook's expedition should be
treated as neutrals by the cruisers of France.

In Ganton the English seamen enjoyed an episode that
formed an agreeable contrast to their late experience. They
found an unexpected market for the furs for which they had
bartered knives, trinkets, and even their brass buttons two
years before on the northwest coast of America. " One of
our seamen," says Lieutenant Kine, " sold his stock alone for
^800 ; and a few prime skins, which were clean and had been
well preserved, were sold for ^120 each. The whole amount
of the value, in specie and goods, that was got for the furs in
both ships, I am confident did not fall short of /^20oo sterling;
and it was generally supposed that at least two-thirds of the
quantity we had originally got from the Americans were
spoiled and worn out, or had been given away or otherwise
disposed of in Kamschatka. When, in addition to these facts,
it is remembered that the furs were at first collected without
our having any idea of their real value ; that the greater part
had been worn by the Indians from whom we had purchased
them ; that they were afterward preserved with little care, and
frequently used for bed-clothes and other purposes ; and that
probably. we had not received t''^* fidl value for them in
Ghina ; the advantages that m.;>::ht be derived from a voyage
to that part of the American cua.st i- idcrtak'. with commer-
cial views, appeared to me of a di.';.^vec of 1. portance suffi-
cient to call for the attention of the public,"

THE /VNTARCTIC KEGIONS.

A few of the seamen were so deeply impressed with the
same conviction that they deserted the ships, and were among
the first Enghshmen tc- engage in the Pacific fur trade.

Leaving Canton with replenished purses they finally arrived
in safety at the Nore on the 4th of October, 1780, after an
absence of four years, two months and twenty-three days.
Five men had died on the Resolution, three of whom were
sickly before leaving England ; the Discovery had not lost a
man.

It was not till the year 18 19 that the commander of the
brig William, sailing southeast from the latitude of Cape
Horn, noted in latitude 62° 30' south, and longitude 60° west
an extensive, snow-covered land on the coasts of which seals
were abundant. As he was bound with a cargo to Valpa-
raiso he could not follow up his discovery, but on arrival at
that port i iformed the British consul. Captain Sheriff, of the
fact he had ascertained, and this official despatched I'Ldward
Barnsfield, master of the frigate Andromache, to explore the
new-f^yund land. It was found to consist of a group of islands,
numbering twelve, with innumerable rocky islets between
them. There was little doubt that it was a part of the same
land sighted by Gerritz more than two centuries before, and
now known as the South Shetlands. They were farther ex-
plored in 1820 by Mr. Weddell, whose crews obtained an
immense number of sea-elephants and fur seals. These
islands are nearly inaccessible, being ice-bound, while almost
any part of them, other than perpendicular cliffs, is perpetu-
ally snow-covered. There are a few small patches of strag-
gling grass where there is any soil, and a moss simib** to that
found in Iceland. In 1821 other additions were muae to our
knowledge of islands adjacent to the South Shetlands by
Captains Powell and Palmer, the latter an American, and by
the Russian navigator, Bellinghausen, who reached a very
southern point. They are respectively known as Trinity,
Palmer's, and Alexander's Lands. A voyage in 1822 has
importance, as it led to valuable results, in a commercial
point of view. The brig Jane, of Leith, Captain Weddell,
with a crew of twenty-two officers and men, accompanied by a
cutter, set sail in September of that year on a voyage to the
South Seas for the pu'-pose of procuring fur seals. At the
beginning of January, 18:3 the vessels first came in sight of
the land of the high soutiierru. latitude, and the next day

ANTAUCnC EXn.ORAriONS.

rcaduHl llie Svouth Orkneys. Th tops of the islatuls luosilv
tcnniiiat'.Hl in crao;L;y peaks, ami lookinl almost \'\\^r \]\r
moiiiUain tojjs of a sunken lanil. I'roeeetlins;' southwanl,
tliey one evenini;' j)assiHl v/ry ek)se to an object wliieli an-
pcareil like a roek. The liatl was innneilialely thrown out,
but no lH)ttoni eouKl \)c louml. It lurned out to he a dcail
vhale, \cvy much swolU-n, llo.uinq- on the: surface. W'ctKK'U
ol)iain(Hl at St>uth tleori^ia a valuahK* cari^o. I'^rom the si>a.
clepliant no k-ss than 20.000 tons o( o'\\ were obtaineil in a
few si-asons, thc> cargoes always inchulins^' a iar^x* nuinlxi- of
fur sealskins. American s<Mlers alst) look ]ari;e carLiocs of
these skins to China, where they soKl for U\v. or six tjollais a
skin. The Iskmd of Desolation, descrihed l)y Cook, W[is also
a source; of great profit. "This is a strikiniL;. but liy no means
uncommon c^xample of the commenial advantage to in- dv,
riveil from voyaot-s of discovery." bi i>^.iO- Captain Hiscoe,
commaiu'int;- the seahn^ l)riL; Mli/a Scott, made tlie discovery
of another ran''"e o( islaiuls, since nametl afti'r liim. bi iSui,
Captain Ikilley, in a ship belong:- o- to I\b^ssrs. l^iuU'rby. the
owm rs of the hist-named vessel, disctivered kind in kitiliuK-
66' 44' .S., which was in all jirobability a portion of the sanie
territory sighted by Wilkes and D'Urville a year afterwanls.
Thus, while .America and b'rance ckiim the honor of havinu-
discovered an "Antarctic continent," HalK'y seems to have
forestalled tlunn. It is extremely iloubtful whether the
patclu's of land sec>n by these explorers can be considereil to
form a great southern continent.

Captain Dumont D'Urville commanded an exi^editic!-'
despatched by 1* ranee in 1S37 ^^^^ *^'^'^- express [)urpose of ex-
ploring the Antarctic, and Lieutenant Wilkes, U. S. N., li;ul
a similar commission the same year. Wilkes aiul D'Ur\illc
siiThted each other's vessels on one occasion, but through a
mistake did not communicate.

D'Urville, after describing the "lanes" of tall icebergs by
which his ship was enclosetl anil imj)edetl, slat(;s that they
sigiited land, some few^ miles off, with promincMit p^-aks ^^,000
feet and upwards in height, and surrounded with coast ice.
Some boats were sent oil to make magnetic observalioiis,
and one of the offict^rs succeeded in landing on a small rocky
islet, on which the tricolor ilag was unfurled. Not the small-
est trace of vegetable life could be discovered. Numerous
fragments of the rock itself were carried off as trophies.

TIIK ANTAKCTK- KIHWONS.

(.Is mostly
likr [\\v.
outluvanl,
wliiih ap-
irown out.
\)c a *lt'ail
\V<-(Klrll

nil lli<- s^M-
aiiuHl \\\ a
nunil)rr ot
cai'i^ocs ol
IX (lollars a
>k, was also
ly no means
c to Ih- ilo'
tain Hiscoc,
ic clisiovt'ry

ii. Ill »^;>u.
uuU'rby, lln'
.1 in lalitiuU-
of tho same
altcrwartls.
br ot" havini;-
ims to lv.iv<'
•hotlu'i- ihr
)nsukn'oil to

oxpc'clitir'^
Irposc ot cx-

S. N.. iKul
id D'U rxillc
It through a

icebcM-gs hy
l;s that they
poaks ;vOOO
th coast ice.
)bsei-valions,
small rocky
)t the small-
Numerous
las trophies.

Close at liaml were ei<;ht or ten otiier islets. The land tlius
iliseovered w.is named Adelie Lam! (alter Admiral I )'l Irville's
.ile), /\ proieelini; cape, wiiiih had been seen early in liie

ilav, was eaUetl C

ape

iseovei

y, and the ish-t on wineli 1

j.mding was elh'eted was named I'oint (leoio^y

Will

<es Ueseri

hes I

us ilis(()\ (Mies Ml snnil.ir ternu

(o tl

lose

it" previous e\j)lorers already mentioned. Stones, j^iavel,
and, nuul, <"te.. were noted on a low ieehere, provim; the ex-
tene(! of land somewhere ahout, hut it must he honu" in

mint that a

landi

iiig on anythinL", l>nt iee was iu)t elleetee

An attempt on the part of Captain (afterwards .Sir James)
Ross to establish maenetie observations in the; southern hem-
ispher(^ was unsneeesslul, but ri-sulted in a discovery of im-
portance. On hi'i>'<i'y ' ' ih, 1S41, land was sighted, rising in
lofty snow-covered peaks, the. elevation of sonur of which was
stated to be from ij.oooleet to 14,000 feel. Various peaks
were named dWrv Sabine, and other distinguisluul philosophers
who \\,xd advocat(Hl tlu* cansi; of tlu! (nxpedition. With souk^
(lifliculty they landed on an island, on which they planleij our
Hag, and ilrank a toast to tin- health of the (hieen and IViuee
Albert. It was named I'ossession Island. There was no

vcLietation,

Init

inconceivable myria

Is of

penguins eoii

plcti'ly and tlcMisely covered tin.' whole surface of the island,
along the ledges o\ the preci|)ices, and even to tlu; summits
of the hills, attacking us," says Ross, " vigorously as we waded
through tlK^ir ranks, and pecking at us with th(Mr sharp beaks,
disputing possession; which, together with their loud, coarse
notes, and the insupportable stench from the deep bed of
guano, which had been forming for ages, and which may at
some period be valuable to the; agriculturists of our Australa-
sian colonies, made us glad to get away again, after having
loaiknl our boats with geological s|)ecimeiis and penguins."

Whales were very numcn'ous
tini(' in various directions,
bartluir sou

thirty
d

were counted at one

th the interesting discovery was made ol an
active volcano, a mountain 12,400 fe(;t altitud<!, emitting ilauK;
antl smoke at the tim(^ It was nanu'd after the. l"".ri;bus, one
of the vessels (Miiployed, whih; a second volcano, scar((ly in-
ferior in height to the lirst-nauKHl, was calh.'d Mount 'iVrror,
after our staunch old fri(;nd the vessel which so well withstood
the ice in Sir (leorge Hack's (;xj)edition. "On the aft(;rnoon
of the 28th," says Ross, " Mount Erebus was observed to

'ih in

ftrf

ANrARCriC KXl'LORATIONS.

emit smoke and flame in unusual quantities, producing a most
grand spectacle ; a volume of dense smoke was projccltci at
each successive jet with great force, in a vertical column, lo
the height of between 1.500 and 2,000 feet above the mouth
of the crater, when, condensing first at its upper part, it de-
scended in mist or snow, and grailually dispersed, to be suc-
ceeded by another splendid exhibition of tlu* same kind in
about half an hour afterwards, although the intervals between
the eruptions were by no means regular. The diameter of
the columns of smoke was between two and three hundred
feet, as near as we could measure it ; whenever the smoke
cleared away the bright red fli.me that filleil the mouth of tlu;
crater was clearly perceptible ; and some of tin* officers be-
lieved they could see streams of lava pouring down its sides
until lost beneath the snow, which, descended from a few-
hundred feet below the crater, and projected its perpendicular
icy cliff several miles into tlie ocean."

'I'he whole of the land traced to the sevcmty-ninth degree
of latitude was named Victoria Land. Ross " restored to
Englantl the honor of the discovery of the southernmost
known land," which had previously belonged to Russia, as
won twenty years before by. the intrepid Bellinghausen. A
second and a third visit was made by Ross, on the latter of
which he made some discoveries of minor importance.

i'-A'

t.:

• i \

; \ . ;; i

CIIAITI'.R II.

TIIK I 111' o;- (A IMA IN lAMKS COOK.

'IT.i- I'Aii'iils (if ('.ii>tain |;uncs I ook AppiiMitin' lo ;\ 1 l.ihiTdaslicr — < In Hoard of tlic Ship
I'lecl.ove — A ('uminnii Siiilor — l.iUcr a M ii lie enters tiic Rnyul liriiish Navy —
Master of the ( larlaml and the Mercury — Taking Soull(hn^;>^ n( ijic ( h.innel ( f the St.
Lawrence River and Surveying; it -Masterof tiie Man of- War Nurthurnli' riand -Marrieil
— M;;rine Surveyor of Newfoundland and I.aliradcn Ivxpcdition sent out in)d<r Lieu-
tenant Cook to Observe the 'Transit of N'enns — Madeira -Kio Janeiro — (ape Horn —
(Halicitc — 'I'akinj; ( )'iservations — Leavin;; ( )laheite.

Cai'IAIN Jamks Cook had no claim to distinction on acconnt
of the histrc of his birth, or the; dii^nity of his anct-stors.
His father, Jaines Cook, was in th(; hiiinhU; station of a s(;r-
vaiit in husbandry, anil marrieil a woman of the saint; rank
with iiimself, whose Christian name was (irace. Both of thc-m
were noted in their nei!:;hl)()rh()od for their honc;sty, sol)riety,
and dilio-enci;. Tiiey first li\-ed at a villai^e called Morton,
ami then removed to Marton, another villaoe in the North-
ridin!^- of Yorkshire. At Marton Captain Cook was born on
the 27th of October, 172S, and, a^riM.'ably to the custom of
the vicar of the parish, whose practice it w^as to baptize infants
soon aft(>r their birth, he was baptized on the 3d of November
following-. The first rudimt^nts of young Cook's education
were received by him at Marton, where he was taught to
read. When he was eight years of age his father, in conse-
quence of the character he had obtained for industry, frugality,
and skill in husbandry, had a little promotion bestowed upon
him, which was that of being appointed head servant, or hind,
to a farm belonging to the late Thomas Skottow, l^sq., called
Airy Holme, near Great Ayton. To this place, therefore, he
removed with his family, and iiis son James, at Mr. Skottow's
expense, was put to a day school.

Before he was thirteen years of age he was bound an ap-
prentice to Mr. William Sanderson, a haberdasher, or shop-
keeper, at Staiths, a considerable fishing town, about ten miles
north of Whitby. This employment, however, was very un-

('•3)

i . ' ' t?

:P-^i; '1^

^^1

\:'/m

fKl

I'iii'-yi-

If^

'if I If' ^'

ANTAKC TIC KXl'I,* >KA TIONS.

suitahlr to yoiini;; Cook's disposition. 'I'lic sea was the object
of his iiulinalioii, ami his |»assioii lor il coiiKI not avoid Ik In..
strciii^lhciUHl by the situalioii of du; town in whicii lie was
plarcd, aiul the manner ol lite of tlu* persons with wlioin hi-
must IrtupK ntly convrrsc. Sonu; disaqrccmciU having hat
polled InUwoon him ami his master, lie ohtainrd liis disehaiiM
ami soon alter hound himself for sexcn years to |ohn and
llenry Walker, of Whitby, jjrineipal owners of the ship I ice-
love, and ot another vessel, both of whieh were constaiiily
employ(Hl in the coal trade. Ihe nn'Htest part of his appreii-
tict'sliip was spent on board tlu; b'reedove. After he was out
of his time he continued to serve in the coal and odier
branclu's o( trade in tlu> capacity of a common sailor, till ai
length he was raised to be mate of one of Mr. |ohn Walker's
ships, l)uring- this peri(nl it is not recollected that he exhih-
itetl anything;- vc>ry peculiar, either in his abilities or his cdii-
iluct ; thouj^h there can be no doubt but that he s;ained a
considerable det;ree of knowUxloe in the j tract ical part of
navigation, antl that his attentive ami saj^acious mind was
layino- u[) a store of observations which wouKl be useful to
liim in futuri; life.

In the sprini;- o\' the yt>ar 1755, when hostilities brok(? oi;t
between ICnglaml and France, and there was a hot jjress for
seamen, Mr. Cook liappened to be in the river Thames with
the ship to which he belonoed. At first he concealed himself
to avoid beino- pressed ; but retlectin^ that it mioht be diffi-
cult, notwithstandinq^ all iiis vigilance, to elude discovery or
escape pursuit, he determined, upon further consitleration, to
enter voluntarily into his Majesty's service, and to take his
future fortune in the royal navy. Perhaps he liad some pre-
sage in his own mind that by his activity and exertions he
might rise considerably above his present situation. Accord-
ingly he went to a rendezvous at Wapping, and cMitered with
an officer of the Eagle man-of-war, a ship of sixty guns, at
that time commanded by Captain Hamer. To this ship Caj)-
tain Palliser was appointed in the month of October, 1755,
and when he took the command, found in her James Cook,
whom he soon distinguished to bean able, active, and diligent
seaman. All the otificcrs spoke highly in his favor, and the
captain was so well pleased with his behavior that he gave
him every encouragement which lay in his power.

In the course of some time Captain Palliser received a

LIIK OI- (.AI'I'AIN JAMKS COOK.

»5

Irttcr aaiu.'ilntiiiL; him that stivcral ii('iL;hl)<)rs of his had soHc-
itcd liiin to writj; in favor of ()i\r Cook on l)oarcl the iai)tair\'s
ship. Tlicy had heard liiat Captain Paliiscr had taken notice
of iiiin, ami they recjuested, it h(; thou^iit Cool< deserviiiL;- of
it, that lie wonld point ont in what manner Mr. ( )sl).ildest()n
iniL',hl Ix'st eonlril)nte his assistance towards forwardinj^ tin;
ynnni,^ man's promotion, The captain, in liis reply, did jiisti(('
to C'ooU's merit; but, as he had only heen a siu)rt time in the
navy, infornunl Mr. Oshalileston that he could not he j»ro-
nioted as a commissioned olficer. A master's warrant, ( ap-
tain l'allis('r added, miidit perhaps Ix; procnrc.'d for Cook,
hy which he woniil Ik; raised to a station that he was well
(jiialilietl to discharge with ability and credit.

Such a warrant In; obtained on the loth of May, 1759, for
ihv. (irami)us sloop; but tin; ])roi)er master havint^ unexpect-
edly returntMl to her, tlu; appointment did not take place.
V.nw days aft(M- h(! was made master of tlu- ( iarland, when,
upon iiKjuiry, it was lound that he could not join her, as the
ship had already sailed. On the n(^\t day, the 15th of May,
he was appointed to the Mercury.

Tin; destination of the Mercury was to North Am<!rica,
when; she joined the (\cvX uuiKm' the conunand of .Sir Charh.-s
Saunders, which, in conjunction with the land forces under
General Wolfe, was enL;ai;ed in tlu; famous sieu^c of Quebec.
DuriiiL]^ that si(.\s;(; a difficidt and danL^(;rous service; was neces-
sary to be i)erformed. This was to take the soundin^^s in tht;
channel of the river .St. Lawrence between the island of Or-
leans and the north short;, directly in front of the bVench for-
tified camp at Montmorency and Beauport, in order to enable
the admiral to place ships a<4ainst the enemy's batteries, and
to cover the army on a t^eneral attack, which the heroic Wolfe
intended to make on the camp. Captain Palliser, in conse-
quence of his acquaintance with Cook's saei^acity and res-
olution, recommended him to the service ; and he performed
it in the most complete manner. In this business he was
employed during the night-time for several nights tog(;ther.
At length he was discovered by the enemy, who collected a
great number of Indians and canoes in a wood near the
water-side, which were launched in the night for the purpose
of surrounding him and cutting him off. On this occasion he
had a very narrow escape. He was obliged to run for it,
and pushed on shore on the island of Orleans, near the guard

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ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

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of the English hospital. Some of the Indians entered at the
stern of the boat as Cook leaped out at the bow, and the
boat, which was a barge belonging to one of the ships of war,
was carried away in triumph. However, he furnislied tlu*
admiral witii a correct and complete draught of the channel
and soundings.

Another important service was performed by Cook while
the fleet continued in the river St. Lawrence. The navi-
gation of that river is exceedingly difficult and hazardous.
It was particularly so to the English, who were then in a
great measure strangers to this part of North America, and
who had no chart on the correctness of which they could
depenil. It was, therefore, ordered by the Admiral that
Cook should be employed to survey those parts of the ri\ tr,
below Quebec, which navigators had experienced to be at-
tended with peculiar difficulty and danger; and he executed
the business with the same diliiience and skill of which he
had already afforded so happy a specimen. When he had
finished the undertaking his chart of the river St. Lawrence
was published, with soundings, and directions for sailing in
that river.

After the expedition at Quebec, Cook, by warrant fiom
Lord Colvill, was appointed, on the 22d of September. Master
of the Northumberland man-of-war, the ship in which his
lordship stayed, in the following winter, as Commodore, with
the command of a squadron at Halifax. In this station
Cook's behavior did not fail to gain him the esteem and
friendship of his commander. During the leisure which the
season of winter afforded him he employed his time in the
acquisition of such knowledge as eminendy qualified him for
future service. It was at Halifax that he first applied him-
self to the study of astronomy and other branches of science.

While Cook was Master of the Northumberland iiiuler
Lord Colvill, that ship came to Newfoundland, in September,
1762, to assist in the recapture of the island from the I*i' nch,
by the forces under the command of Lieutenant-Co'.'nel
Amherst. When the island was recovered the English tiee'i:
stayed some days at Placentia, in order to put it in a more
complete state of defence. During this time Cook mani-
fested a diligence in surveying the harbor and heights of the
place, which arrested the notice of Admiral Graves, Com-
mander of the Antelope, and Governor of Newfoundland.

LIFE OF CAPTAIN JAMKS COOK.

The Governor was hence induced to ask Cook a variety of
questions, from the answers to whicli lie was led to entertain
a very favorable opinion of his abilities. This opinion was
increased the more lie saw of Cook's conduct ; who, wher-
ever they went, continued to display the most unremittiui;^
attention to every object that related to the kno\vled_i;e of
the coast, and which was calculated to facilitate the practice
of navij^ation.

In the latter end of 1762 Cook returned to England;
and, on the 21st of December, in the same year, married, at
Barkin<^ in I'^ssex, Miss Klizabelh lialts, an amiable and de-
scrvinij woman, who was justly entiih-d to, and enjoyed his
tenderest rey^ard and affection. Hut his station in life, and
the hij^h duties to which he was called, did not permit him to
partake of matrimonial felicity without many and very long
interruptions.

Harly in the year i '/6^, after the peace with France and
Spain was concluded, it was determined that Captain Graves
should go out again, as Governor of Newfoundland. As the
country was very valuable in a ommercial view, and had
been an object of great contention between the English and
the French, the captain obliined an establishment for the
survey of its coasts; which, however, he procured with some
difficulty, because the matter was not sutficiendy understood
by the British Government. In considering the execution of
the plan. Cook appeared to Captain Graves to be a proper
person for the purpose; and proposals were made to him, to
which he readily acceded. Accordingly he went out with the
captain as surveyor; and was first employed to survey
Miquelon and St. Pierre, which had been ceded by the treaty
to the French, who, by order of administration, were to take
possession of them at a certain period. When Captain
Graves had reached that part of the world he found there"
the governor who had been sent from France, with all the
settlers and his own family, on board a frigate and some
transports. It was contrived, however, to keep them in that
disaofreeable situation for a whole month, which was the time
taken by Cook to complete his survey. When the busi-
ness was finished the French were put into possession of the
two islands, and left in the quiet enjoyment of them, with
every profession of civility.

At the end of the season Cook returned to England,

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

ill

but did not long continue at home. In the beginning of the
year 1764 his old and constant friend and patron, Sir Hugn
Palliser, was appointed Governor and Commodore of New-
foundland and Labrador; upon which occasion he was glad
to take Cook with him, in the same capacity that he had
sustained under Captain Graves. Indeed, no man could have
been found who was better q-alified for finishing the desij^n
which had been begun in the preceding year. The charts of
the coasts, in that part of North America, were very erroneous ;
and it was highly necessary to the trade and navigation that
new ones should be formed, which would be more correct and
useful. Accordingly, under the orders of Commodore Palliser,
Cook was appointed, on the i8th of April, 1764, Marine
Surveyor of Newfoundland and Labrador; and he had a
vessel, the Grenville schooner, to attend him for that purpose.
How well he executed his commission is known to every man
acquainted with navigation. The charts, which he afterwards
published of the different surveys he had made, reflected great
credit on his abilities and character, and the utility of them is
universally acknowledged. It is understood that, so far as
Newfoundland is concerned, they were of considerable s( rvice
to the king's ministers, in settling the terms of the last peace.
Cook explored the inland parts of this island in a much
completer manner than had ever been done before. Bv
penetrating farther into the middle of the country than any
man had hitherto attempted he discovered several large lakes,
which are indicated upon the general chart. In these services
Cook appears to have been employed, with the intervals
of occasionally returning to England for the winter season,
till the year 1 767, which was the last time that he went out
upon his station of Marine Surveyor of Newfoundland.

The invention of the compass, seconded by the ardent and
enterprising spirit of several able men, was followed by won-
derful discoveries. Vasco di Gama doubled the Cape of
Good Hope * and a new way being thus found out to the
East Indies, the countries in that part of the earth became
more accurately and extensively known. Another world was
discovered by Columbus ; and, at length, Magalhaens accom
plished the arduous and hitherto unattempted task of sailing
round the globe. At different periods he was succeeded by
other circumnavigators, of whom it is no part of the preseni
narrative to give an account

LIFE OF CAPTAIN JAMES COOK.

ling of the

Sir Hugh
e of New-
e was glad
lat he had
could have
the design
le charts of
erroneous;
igation that
correct and
ore Palliser,
?64, Marine
i he liad a
iiat purpose,
o every man
e afterwards
fleeted great
ty of them is
at, so far as
rable s* rvice
le last peace,
in a much
before. Bv'
try than any
,1 large lakes,

The spirit of discovery, which was so vigorous during the
latter end of the fifteenth and through the whole of the six-
teenth century, began, soon after the commencement of the
seventeeth century, to decline. Great navigations were only
occasionally undertaken, and mon* from the immediate views
of avarice or war, than from any noble and generous priric'
pies. But of lale years they have been revived, with the en-
larged and benevolent design of promoting the happiness of
the human species.

A beginning of this kind was made in the reign of King
George the Second, of England, during which two voyages
were performed ; the first under the command of Captain
Midtlleton, and the next iinder the direction of Captains
Smith and Moore, in order to discover a Northwest passage,
through Hudson's Bay. It was reserved, however, for the
glory of his successor to carry the spirit of discovery to its
height.

No sooner was peace restored, in 1763, than these laudable
designs engaged the King's patronage ; and two voyages
roiuul the world had been undertaken, before Cook set
O'lt on his first commantl. The conductors of these voyages
were the Ca[»tains Byron. Wallis and Carteret, by whom sev-
eral discoveries were made, which contributed, in no small
degree, to increase the knowledge of geography and naviga-
tion. Nevertheless, as the purpose for which they were sent
out appears to have had a principal reference to a particular
object in the .South Atlantic, the direct track they were
obliged to hold, on their way homeward by the East Indies,
prevented them from doing so much as might otherwise have
been expected towards giving the world a complete view of
that immense expanse of ocean which the South Pacific com-
prehends.

Before Captain Wallis and Captain Carteret had returned
to Great Britain, another voyage was resolved upon, for winch
the improvement of astronomical science afforded the im-
mediate occasion. It having been calculated by astronomers
that a transit of Venus over the sun's disk would happen in
1769, it was judged that the best place for observing it would
be in some part of the South Sea, either at the Marquesas,
or at one of those islands which Tasman had called Amster-
dam, Rotterdam and Middleburg, and which are now better
known under the appellation of the Friendly Islands. This

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

beings a matter of eminent consequence in astronomy, and
which excited the attention of foreign nations as well as of
our own, the affair was taken up by the Royal Society, wiili
the zeal which has always been displayed by that learned
body for the advancement of every branch of philosophical
science. Accordin<;ly» a long memorial was addressed to his
majesty, dated February the 15th, 1768, representing the
great importance of the object, together with the regard
which had been paid to it by the principal courts of Europe;
and entreating, among other things, that a vessel might be
ordered, at the expense of government, for the conveyance
of suitable persons, to make the observation of the transit of
Venus at one of the places before mentioned. This memorial
having been laid before the 'King by the Earl of Shelburne,
one of the principal Secretaries of State, his majesty graciously
signified his pleasure to the Lords Commissioners of the
Admiralty, that they should provide a ship for carrying over
such observers as the Rojal Society should judge proper to
send to the South Seas ; and, on the 3d of April, Mr. Steph(;ns
informed the Society that a bark had been taken up for the
purpose.

The man who had originally been fixed upon to take the
direction of the expedition was Alexander Dalrymple, an
eminent member of the Royal Society, and who, besides pos-
sessing an accurate knowledge of astronomy, had distin-
guished himself by his inquiries into the geography of the
Southern Oceans, and by the collection he had published of
several voyages to those parts of the world. Dalrymple
being sensible of the difficulty, or rather of the impossibility,
of carrying a ship through unknown seas, the crew of which
were not subject to the military discipline of his Majesty's
Navy, he made it the condition of his going that he should
have a brevet commission as captain of the vessel, in the
same manner as such a commission had been granted to Dr.
Halley in his voyage of discovery. To this dernand Sir Ed-
ward Hawke, who was then at the head of the Admiralty.
and who possessed more of the spirit of his profession than
either of education or science, absolutely refused to accede.
' He said at the board that his conscience would not allow him
to trust any ship of his Majesty's to a person who had not
regularly been bred a seaman. On being further pressed
upon the subject. Sir Edward declared that he would suffer

LIFE OF CAPTAIN JAMES COOK.

his ricjht hand to be cut off before he would sig^n any such
commission. In this he was, in some degree, justified by the
mutinous behavior of Halley's crew, who refused to acknowl-
edji^e the leijal authority of their commander and involved
him in a dispute which was attended with pernicious conse-
quences. Mr. Dalrymple, on the other hand, was equally
steady in requiring a compliance with the terms he had pro-
posed. Such was the state of things when Mr. Stephens,
Secretary of the Admiralty, whose discrimination of the
numerous characters, with which by his station he is con-
versant, reflects as much credit on his understanding as his
upiight and able conduct does on the office he has filled for
so many years and under so many administrations, with honor
to himself and advantage to the public, observed to the board
that, since Sir Edward Havvke and Mr. Dalrymple were
equally inflexible, no method remained but that of finding
out another person capable of the service. He knew, he
said, a Mr. Cook, who had been employed as Marine Sur-
veyor of Newfoundland, who had been regularly educat(?d in
the Navy, in which he was a master, and whom he judgexl to
be fully qualified for the direction of the present undertaking.
Mr. Stephens, at the same time, recommended it to the
board to take the opinion of Sir Hugh Palliser, who had
lately been Governor of Newfoundland, and was intimately
acquainted with Cook's character. Sir Hugh rejoiced in the
opportunity of serving his friend. He strengthened Mr.
Stephens' recommendation to the utmost of his power, and
added many things in Cook's favor, arising from the par-
ticular knowledge which he had of his abilities and merit.
Accordingly Cook was appointed to the command of the
expedition by the Lords of the Admiralty; and, on this oc-
casion, he was promoted to the rank of a Lieutenant in the
Royal Navy, his commission bearing date on the 25th of
May, 1768.

When the appointment had taken place the first object was
to provide a vessel adapted to the purposes of the voyage.
This business was committed to Sir Hugh Palliser, who took
Lieutenant Cook to his assistance, and they examined to-
gether a great number of the ships which then lay in the
river Thames. At length they fixed upon one of three hun-
dred and seventy tons, to which was given the name of the
Endeavor.

wMmi

p:r

'I I

,. I

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

While preparations were making for Lieutenant Cook's ex-
pedition, Captain Wallis returned from his voyaj^e around the
world. The Earl of Morton, President of the Royal Society,
had recommended it to this gendeman, on going out, to fix
upon a proper place for observation of the transit of Venus.
He kept, accordingly, the object in view, and having dis-
covered, in the course of his enterprise, an island, calhxl by
him George's Island (Otaheite), he judged that Port Royal
harbor in this island would afford an eligible situation for the
purpose. Having, immediately on his return to England,
signified his opinion to the Earl of Morton, the captain's idea
was adopted by the society, and an answer conformable to it
was sent to the Commissioners of the Admiralty, who had
applied for directions to what place the observers should be
sent.

Mr. Charles Green, a gentleman who had long been as-
sistant to Dr. Bradley at the royal observatory at Greenwich,
was united with Lieutenant Cook in conducting the astro-
nomical part of the voyage; and, soon after their appoint-
ment, they received ample instructions from the Council of
the Royal Society with regard to the method of carrying on
their inquiries.

Though it was the principal it was not the sole object of
Lieutenant Cook's voyage to observe the transit of Venus.
A more accurate examination of the Pacific Ocean was com-
mitted to him, although in subserviency to his main design;
and, when his chief business was accomplished, he was di-
rected to proceed in making further discoveries in the great
Southern seas.

The complement of Lieutenant Cook's ship consisted of
eighty-four persons, besides the commander. Her victualling
was for eighteen months, and there were put on board of her
ten carriage and twelve swivel guns, together with an ample
store of ammunition and other necessaries.

On May 25th, 1768, Lieutenant Cook was appointed by the
Lords of the Admiralty to the command of the Endeavor,
in consequence of which he went on board on the 27th and
took charge of the ship. She then lay in the basin in Dept-
ford-yard, where she continued to lie till she was completely
fitted for sea. On the 3bth of July she sailed down tiic river,
and on the 13th of August anchored in Plymouth Sound.
The wind becoming fair on the 26th of that month, the navi-

LIFE OP CAPTAIN JAMES COOK.

gators got under sail, and on the 1 3th of September anchored
in Funchal Road in the island of Madeira.

It was not solely from the English that the Lieutenant and
his friends experienced a kind reception. The fathers of the
Franciscan convent displayed a liberality of sentiment to-
wards them which might have ,/Ot been expected from Portu-
guese friars, and in a visit which they paid to a convent of
nuns, the ladies expressed a particular pleasure in seeing
them.

Lieutenant Cook, having laid in a fresh stock of beef, water
and wine, set sail from the island of Madeira in the night of
the 1 8th of September and proceeded on his voyage. By
the 7th of November several articles of the ship's provisions
began to fall short, for which reason the lieutenant deter-
mined to put into Rio de Janeiro. This place he preferred
to any other port in Brazil or to Falkland Islands, because
he could there Lci better supplied widi what he wanted, and
had no doubt of meeting with a friendly reception.

At Rio de Janeiro, in the port of which Lieutenant Cook
came to anchor on the 13th of November, he did not meet
with the polite reception tiiat, perhaps, he had too sanguinely
expected. His stay was spent in continual altercations widi
the Viceroy, who appeared not a little jealous of the designs
of the English.

During th.i whole of the contest with the Viceroy, Lieuten-
ant Cook behaved with equal spirit and discretion. A supply
of water and other necessaries could not be refused him, and
these were gotten on board by the i st of December. On
that day the lieutenant sent to the Viceroy for a pilot to carry
the Endeavor to sea ; but the wind preventing the ship from
getting out, she was obliged to continue some time longer in
the harbor. A Spanish packet having arrived at Rio de
Janeiro on the 2d of December, with despatches from Buenos
Ayres for Spain, the commander offered to convey the letters
of the English to Europe. This favor Lieutenant Cook ac-
cepted, and gave him a packet for the Secretary of the Ad-
miralty, containing copies of all the papers that had passed
between himself and the Viceroy. He left, also, duplicates
with the Viceroy, that he might forward them, if he thought
proper, to Lisbon.

On the 5th of December, it being a dead calm, the navi-
gators weighed anchor and towed down the bay ; but, to their

I ■! i

E^ \

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

great astonishment, two shots were fired at them when they
Had gotten abreast of Santa Cruz, the principal fortification
of the harbor. Lieutenant Cook immediately cast anchor
and sen. to the fort to demand the reason of this conduct, tlic
answer to which was that the commandant had received no
order from the Viceroy to let the ship pass, and that, without
such an order, no vessel was ever suffered to go bf^low the
fort. It now became necessary to the Viceroy to inquire
why the ord had not been given, and his behavior appeareil
the more extraordinary as notice had been transmitted to him
of the departure of the English and he had thought proper
to write a polite letter to Cook, wishing him a good voy-
age. The lieutenant's messenger soon returned, with the in-
formation that the order had been written several days and
that its not havinir been sent had arisen from some un.ic-
countable negligence. It was not till the 7th of December
that the Endeavor got under sail.

From Rio dc Janeiro Lieutenant Cook pursued his voyage,
and, on the 141)1 of January, 1769, entered the Strait of Le
Mairc, at which time the tide drove the ship out with so much
violence and raised such a sea off Cape St. Diego, that she
frequently pitched, so that the bowsprit .vas under water.
On the next day the lieutenant anchored, first before a small
cove, which was understood to be Port Maurice, and after-
wards in the Bay of Good Success. While the Endeavor
was in this station, happened the memorable adventure of
Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Monkhouse, the surgeon, and
Mr. Green, the astronomer, together with their attendants
and servants, and two seamen, in ascending a mountain to
search for plants. In this expedition they were all of them
exposed to the utmost extremity of danger and of cold ; Dr.
Solander was seized with a torpor which had nearly proved
fatal to his life ; and two black servants actually died.
When the men had, at length, on the second day of their
adventure, gotten back to the ship, they congratulated each
other on their safety, with a joy that can only be felt by those
who have experienced equal perils ; and Lieutenant Cook was
relieved from a very painful anxiety.

In the passage through the Strait of Le Maire, Lieutenant
Cook and his ingenious associates had an opportunity of gain-
ing a considerable degree of acquaintance with the inhabi-
tants of the adjoining country. Here it was that they saw

LIFE OF CA: 'AIN JAMES COOK.

when they
ortification
ast anchor
oncUict, the
eceivecl no
lat, without
bnlovv the
to uiquire
ir appeared
itted to him
ight proper
good voy-
with the in-
il days and
some unac-
f December

. his voyan;e,
Strait of Le
^rith so much
;go, that she
nder water,
fore a small
e, and after-
le Endeavor
dventure of
urgeon, and
attendants
mountain to
all of them
of cold ; Dr.
early proved
jtually died,
day of their
tulated each
felt by those
^nt Cook was

Lieutenant
mity of gain-

the inhabi-
lat they saw

human nature in its lowest form. The natives appeared to
be the most destitute and forlorn, as well as the most stupid
of the children of men. Their lives were spent in wandering
about the dreary wastes that surround them ; and their dwell-
ings were no other than wretched hovels of sticks and grass,
which not only admitted the wind, but the snow and the rain.
They were almost naked ; and so ilevoid were they of every
convenience which is furnished by the rudest art, diat they
had not so much as an implement to dress their food. Never-
theless, they seemed to have no wish for accpiiring more than
they possessed ; nor did anything that was offered them ap-
pear acceptable but beads, as an ornamental superlluity of
life.

In voyages to the South Pacific Ocean, the d< termination
of the best passage from the Atlantic is a point of peculiar
importance. It is well known what prodigious difficulties
were experienced in this respect by former navigators. The
doubling of Cape Horn, in particular, was so much dreaded,
that, in the general opinion, it was far more eligible to pass
through the Strait of Magalhaens. Lieutenant Cook fully
ascertained the erroneousness of this opinion. He was but
three-and-thirty days in coming round the land of Terra del
FueLTO, from the east entrance of the Strait of Le ISIaire, till
he had advanced about twelve degrees to the westward and
three and a half to the northward of the Strait of Magalhaens ;
and, during this time, the ship scarcely received any damage.
Whereas, if he had come into the Pacific Ocean by Hiat pas-
sage, he would not have been able to accomplish it in less
than three months ; besides which, his people woidd have
been fatiirued, and the anchors, cables, sails, and riir^iuLr of
the vessel much injured. By the course he pursued, none of
these inconveniences were suffered. In short. Lieutenant
Cook, by his own example in doubling Cape Horn, by his
accurate ascertainment of the latitude and longitude of the
places he came to, and by his instructions to future voyagers
performed the most essential services to this part of naviga-
tion.

It was on the 26th of January that the Endeavor took her
departure from Cape Horn.

In the prosecution of Lieutenant Cook's voyage from Cape
Horn to Otaheite several islands were discovered, to which
the names were given of Lagoon Island, Thrumb-cap, Bow

l!Ml

r^'t

ANTARCTIC KXl'Li )KATI( )NS.

Island, The Groups, Bird Island, and Chain Island. It ap.
peared that most of these islands were inhabited ; and the
verdure and j^roves of palm-irces which were visible upon
some of tlu'in, j^ave them ihe aspect of a terrestrial Paradise
to men wiio, exceptini^^ the dreary hills of Terra del Put<^fo,
had seen nothinj; for a lon^ time but sky and water.

On the nth of April the Endeavor arrived in si«,'ht of Ota.
heite, and on the 13th she came to an anchor in Port Royal
Bay.

One of the first thinii^s that occupied the Lieutenant's atten-
tion, after his arrival, at Otaheite, was to prepare for ihe exe-
cution of his jrrand commission. For this purpose, as in an
excursion to the westward, he had not found any more con.
venient harbor than that in which the Endeavor lay, he deter-
mined to ^o on shore and fix upon some spot, commanded by
the guns of the ship, where he mij^ht throw up a small fort for
defence, and <4et everything; ready for iiiakin*; the astronom-
ical observation. Accordini,dy, he took a party of men and
landed, beinij accompanied by Banks, Dr. Solander, and
Green. They soon fixed upon a place very proper for
their desii^n, and which was at a considerable distance from
any habitation of the natives. While they were markin^j out
the g^round which they intended to occupy, and seeing a small
rent erected that belonged to Mr. Banks, a great number of
the people of the country gathered gradually around them,
but with no hostile appearance, as there was not among thti
Indians a single weapon of any kind. Cook, however,
intimated that none of them were to come within the line he
had drawn, excepting one, who appeared to be a chief, and
Owhavv, a native who had attached himself to the voyagers,
both in Captain VVallis' expedition and in the present voyage.

This matter being finished, and Cook having appointed
thirteen marines and a petty officer to guard the tent, he and
the men set out upon a little excursion into the woods of the
country. They had not, however, gone far, before they were
brought back by a very disagreeable event. One of the
Indians, who remained about the tent after the Lieutenant
and his friends had left it, watched an opportunity of taking
the sentry at unawares, and snatched away his musket. Upon
this, the petty officer who commanded the party, and who
was a midshipman, ordered the marines to fire. With equal
want of consideration, and, perhaps, with equal inhumanity,

MKK OF CAITAIN JAMKS COOK.

lul. It ap.
tl ; and ihv.
risible iijion
ial Paradise
. del Fuey;o,

iiiiht of Ota«

Port Royal

inant's atten-
for the cxe-
ose, as in an
ly more con-
lay, he deter-
iinmanded by
small fort for
be astronom-
/ of men anil
lolander, and
y proper for
distance from
t marking; out
,eeing a small
at number of
around thcni,
ot among the
,ok, however,
lin the line he
a chief, and
the voyagers,
■esent voyage,
ng appointed
e tent, he and
woods of the
ore they were
One of the
lie Lieutenant
nity of taking
liusket. Upon
rty, and who
With equal
l1 inhumanity,

the men immcKliatcly discharged their piec(;n among the
tiiickest of the llying crowil, who consisted of more than a
luindrcd. It being observed that the tiiief did not* fall, he was
pursued and shot dead. P>om subsecjuent information it
happily appeared that none of the natives W(.'re killed or
wounded, with the exception of the individual already men-
lioni.'d.

Lieutenant Cook, who was highly disjjleased with the con-
iluct of the petty officer, used every method in his power to
dispel the terrors and apprehensions of the Imlians, but not
immediately »vith effect. The next morning but few of the
inhabitants were seen upon the beach, and not one of them
came off to the ship. What aikhxl particularly to the regret
of the English was that even Owhaw, who had hitherto been
so constant in his attachment, anil who the day before had
been remarkably active in endeavoring to renew the peace
which had been broken, did not now make his ai)pearance.
In the evening, however, when the lieu, tenant went on shore
with only a boat's crew and some of the gentlemen, between
thirty and forty of the natives gathered around them, and
trafficked with them in a friendly manner for cocoanuts and
other fruit.

On the 1 7th Cook and Green set up a tent on shore
and spent the night there, in order to observe an eclipse
of the first satellite of Jupiter; but they met with a disap-
pointment, in consequence of the weather's becoming cloudy.
The next day, the lieutenant, with as many of his crew as
coidd possibly be spared from the ship, began to erect the
fort.

On the 26th the lieutenant mounted six swivel guns upon
the fort, on which occasion he saw that the natives were
alarmed and terrified. Some fishermen, who lived upon the
point, removed to a greater distance ; and Owhaw informed
the English, by signs, of his expectation that in four days they
would fire their great guns.

The lieutenant, on the succeeding day, gave a striking
proof of his regard to justice, and of his care to preserve the
inhabitants from injury and violence, by the punishment he
inflicted on the butcher of the Endeavor, v ho was accused of
having threatened or attempted the life of a woman that was
the wife of Tubourai Tomaide, a chief remarkable foi' his
attachment to the navigators. The butcher wanted to pur-

'(:

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

chase of her a stone liatchet for a nail. To this bargain she
absolutely refused to accede ; upon which the fellow caught
up the hatchet and threw down the nail, threatening, at the
same time, that if she made any resistance, he would cut her
throat with a reaping-hook which he had in his hand. The
charge was so fully proved in the presence of Banks, and
the butcher had so little to say in exculpation of himself, that
not the least doubt remained of his guilt. The affair being
reported by Banks to Lieutenant Cook, he took an op-
portunity, when the chief and his women with others of the
natives were on board the ship, to call up the offender, and,
after recapitulating the accusation and the proof of it, to give
orders for his immediate punishment. While the butcher was
stripped and tied up to the rigging, the Indians preserved a
fixed attention, and waited for the event in silent suspense.
But as soon as the first stroke was inflicted, such was the
humanity of these people, that they interfered with great
agitation, and earnestly entreated that the rest of the punish-
ment mitrht be remitted. To this, however, the lieutenant for
various reasons could not grant his consent ; and, when they
found that their intercessions were inefiectual, they manifested
their compassic.i by tears.

On the first of May the observatory was set up, and the
astronomical instruments were taken on shore. When, on
the next morning, Cook and Green landed for the pur-
pose of fixing the quadrant in a situation for use, to their
inexpressible surprise and concern it was not to be found. It
had been deposited in a tent reserved for the Lieutenant's
use, where no one had slept ; it had never been taken out of
the packing-case, and the whole was of considerable weight;
none of the other instruments were missing ; and a sentinel
had been posted the whole night v/ithin five yards of the tent.
These circumstances induced a suspicion that the robbery
might have been committed by some of the crew, who havin_<;[
seen a deal box, and not knowing the contents, might imagine
that it contained nails, or other articles for traffic with the
natives. The most diligent search, therefore, was made, and
a large reward was offered for the finding of the quadrant,
but with no degree of success. In this exigency Banks
was of eminent service. As he had more influence over the
Indians than any other person on board the Endeavor, and
as there could now be litrie doubt of the quadrant's having

LIFE OF CAPTAIN JAMES COOK.

)argain she
low caught
ling, at the
uld cut her
hand. The
Banks, and
liimself, that
affair being
Dok an op-
)thers of the
ffender, and,
of it, to give
butcher was
preserved a
nt suspense,
luch was the
i with great
f the punish-
lieutenant for
d, when they
ey manifested

t up, and the
-. When, on
for the pur-
use, to their
36 found. It
Lieutenant's

taken out of
_rable weight ;
and a sentinel
ds of the tent.
; the robbery
V, who havinjj;
night imagine
-affic with the
^as made, and
the quadrant,
gency Banks
ence over the
endeavor, and
[rant's having

been conveyed away by some of the natives, he determined
to go in search of it into the woods ; and it was recovered
in consequence of his judicious and spirited exertions. The
pleasure with which it was brought back was equal to the
importance of the event ; for the grand object of the voyage
could not otherwise have been accomplished.

The Lieutenant and the rest of the men had hitherto, with
a laudable discretion, bartered only beads for articles of food.
But the market becoming slack they were obliged for the first
time, on the eighth of May, to bring out their nails ; and such
was the effect of this nev^r commodity, that one of the smallest
size, which was about four inches long, procured twenty cocoa-
nuts and bread-fruit in proportion.

It was not till tlie tenth of the mv nth that the voyagers
learned that the Indian name of the island was Otaheite.

As the day approached for executing the grand purpose
of the voyage, Lieutenant Cook determined, in consequence
of some hints which he had received from the Earl of Morton,
to send out two parties to observe the transit of Venus from
other situations. By this means he hoped that the success
of the observation would be secured, if there should happen
to be any failure at Otaheite. Accordingly, on Thursday,
the first of June, he despatched Lieutenant Gore in the long-
boat to Eimeo, a neighboring island, together with Monk-
house and Sporing. They were furnished by Green with
proper instruments. Banks himself chose to go upon
this expedition, in which he was accompanied by Tubourai
Tamaide and Tomio, and by others of the natives. Early
the next morning the Lieutenant sent Hicks, in the pin-
nace, with Clerk, Pi^ersgill and Saunders, one of the mid-
shipmen, ordering t^m to fix upon some convenient spot to
the eastward, at a distance from the principal observatory,
where they also might employ the instruments they were
provided with for observing the transit.

The anxiety for such weather as would be favorable to the
success of the experiment was powerfully felt by all the
parties concerned. They could not sleep in peace the pre-
ceding night ; but their apprehensions were happily removed
by the sun's rising, on the morning .of the third of June, with-
out a cloud. The weather continued with equal clearness
through the whole of the day; so that the observation was
successfully made in all quarters.

iff

■

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

To extend the knowledtje of navigation and the sphere of
discovery, objects which Lieutenant Cook kept steadily in
view, he set out, in the pinnace, on the twenty-sixth cf June,
accompanied by Banks, to make the circuit of the island.
By this expedition Cook obtained an acquaintance with
the several districts of Otaheite, the chiefs who presided over
them, and a variety of curious circumstances respecting the
manners and customs of the inhabitants. On tl e first of July
he got back to the fort at Matavai, having found the circuit
of the island, including the two peninsulas of which it con-
sisted, to be about thirty leagues.

The circumnavigation of Otaheite was followed by an
expedition of Banks to trace the river up the valley from
which it issues, and examine how far its banks were in-
habited.

Lieutenant Cook now began to prepare for his departure.
On the seventh of July the carpenters were employed in tak-
ing down the gates and pallisadoes of the fortification ; and
it was continued to be dismantled during the two following
days. The commander was in hopes that he should quit
Otaheite without giving or receiving any further offenc; ; but
in this respect he was unfortunately disappointed. The Lieu-
tenant had prudently overlooked a dispute of a smaller nature
between a couple of foreign seamen and some of the Indians.
when he was immediately involved in a quarrel which he
greatly regretted, and which yet it was totally out of his power
to avoid. In the middle of the night, between the eighth and
the ninth, two of the marines went privately from the fort.
As they were not to be found in the morning, Cook was
apprehensive that they intended to sta^ behind ; but, being
unwilling to endanger the harmony anY good-will which at
present subsisted between the crew and the natives, he de-
termined to wait a day for the chance of the men's return.
As, to the great concern of the Lieutenant, the marines were
not back on the morning of the tenth, inquiry was made after
them of the Indians, who acknowledged that each of them had
taken a wife, and had resolved to become inhabitants, of the
country. After some deliberation two of the natives under-
took to condii t such persons to the place of the deserters'
retreat as Cook should think proper to send ; and accord-
ingly he despatched with the guides a petty officer, and the
corporal of tne marines. As it was of the utmost importance

LIFE OF CAPTAIN JAMES COOK.

to recover the men, and to do it speedily, it was intimated to "^
several of the chiefs who were in the fort with the women,
among whom were Tiibourai Tomaide, Tomio and Obcrea,
that they would not be permitted to leave it till the fugitives
were returned; and the Lieutenant had the pleasure of
observing that they received the intimation with very little
indications of alarm, and with assurances that the men should
be secured and sent back as soon as possible. While this
transaction took place at the fort. Lieutenant Cook sent
Hicks in the pinnace to fetch Tootahah on board the ship.
Cook had reason to expect, if the Indian guides proved
faithful, that the deserters, and those who went in search of
them, would return before the evening. Being disappointed
his suspicions increased, and thinking it not safe, when the
night approached, to let the persons whom he had detained
as hostages continue at the fort, he ordered Tubourai Tomaide,
Obereaand some others, to be taken on board the luideavor;
a circumstance which excited so general an alarm that several
of them, and especially the women, expressed their apprehen-
sions with great emotion and many tears. Webb, one of the
ship's crew, about nine o'clock, was brought back by some
of tlie natives, who declared that Gibson, and the petty officer
and corporal, would not be restored till Tootahah should be
set at liberty.

Lieutenant Cook now found that the tables were turned
upon him ; but, having proceeded too far to retreat, he im-
mediately despatched Hicks in the long-boat, with a strong
party of men, to rescue the prisoners. Tootahah was at the
same time informed that it behooved him to send some of
his people with them for the purpose of affording them ef-
fectual assistance. Wjth this injunction he readily complied,
and the prisoners were restored without the least opposition.
On the next day they were brought back to the ship, upon
which the chiefs were released from their confinement. Thus
ended an affair which had given the lieutenant a great deal
of trouble and concern. It appears, however, that die hieas-
iire which he pursued was the result of an absolute necessity;
since it was only by seizure of the chiefs that he could have
recovered his men. .So strong was the attachment which the
two marines had formed to a couple of girls that it was their
design to conceal themselves till the ship had sailed and to
take up their residence in the island.

;

m i

i . -> Ji

ANTAlU:riC F. X PI ,f) RATIONS.

Tiipia was one of the natives who hail so particularly ilo-
voteil himself to the expeilition that he hail scarcely hctp. al)-
sent durini^ the whole of their stay at Olaheite. This man
had often expressed a desire to go with the navij^ators, ami
wiien they were ready to depart he came on board witii a
boy about thirteen years of age and entreated that he mi^Iu
be permitteil to proceed with them on their voyage. 'I o have
such a person on the I'juleavor was tlesirable on many ac-
counts, and therefore LieutenaiU Cook gladly acceded to Iiis
proposal.

On the 1 3th of July Lieutenant Cook weighed anchor, aiul
as soon as the ship was under sail the Indians on boanl look
their leave and wept.

The stay of tlie voyagers at Otaheite was three mouths,
the greater part of which time was .spent in the most cordial
friendsiiip with the inhabitants and a perpetual reciprocation
of good offices.

While the I'jideavor proceeded on her voyage under an
easy sail, Tupia informed Lieutenant Cook that at four of tiic
neisjhborino- islands, which he distin<>uished bv the names of
Huaheine, Ulietea, Otaha and Holabola, hogs, fowls and other
refreshments, which had latterly been sparingly supplied at
Otaheite, might be procured. The lieutenant, however, was
desirous of first examining an island that lay on the noiili-
ward and was called Tethuroa. Accordingly he came near it.
but having found it to be only a small low island and luiiij^
told at the same time that it had no settled inhabitants, he
determined to drop any further examination of it and to go
in search of Huaheine and Ulietea, which were described to
be well peopled and as large as Otaheite.

The lindeavor on the i6th of July being close in with the
northwest part of Huaheine, some of the natives came off
the shore in the direction of the ship. In one of the canoes
was the king of the island and his wife. At first the people
seemed afraid ; but, upon seeing Tupia, their apprehensions
were in part dispersed, and at length, in consequence of fre-
quent and earnestly-repeated assurances of friendship, their
Majjesties and several others ventured on board the ship.
Their astonishment at everything-which was shown them was
very great, and yet their curiosity did not extend to any ob-
jects but what were particularly pointed out to their notice.
In the afternoon, the Endeavor having come to an anchor in

LIFE OF CAITAIN JAMES COOK.

cularly <\v-
ly lu'cn alv
This mail
gators, ami
»arcl wiil^ a
it ho mi«;lu
:, To liavi:
m many ao-
:cclccl to his

anchor, aiul
1 board look

wc.v montlis.
most corilial
reciprocation

vii-e under an
at four of the
ihc nanus ol
wis antl oiIht
y supplied at
however, was

n the norih-

came near it.

d and Inin^
Inhabitants. \\v

it and to i^c)
described to

a small but excellent harbor on tlic west sid(r of the island.
ihr. name of which was Owliarn*, Cook, accompanied by
Mr. Hanks, Dr. Solandcr, Mr. Monkhouse, Tuitia and the
iialiv(;s wiio had been on board ever since tin: morninjr, im-
mcnliateiy went on shorthand r»*p»'ated their excursions on tl e
two followini; days, in tlie courstr of which they found that
i\w. people of lluaheine had a V(*ry n(!ar n;semblanc(^ to
tliosi! of OtaheittN in person, dress, lanjrua.Lje and (;very other
circumstance ; that tlie productions of the country were ex-
actly similar.

'ruj)ia iiatl expr(!ssed his appr(;h(Mision that the navi<^^'ltors,
if they laiuled u|)on tlie island, woidil be expos(;d to the at-
tacks of th(^ men of liolabola, whom he n!preseiU(;d as having
latt;ly coiupu-reil it ami of whom he enttTtained a very for-
niidabU^ idea. This, however, did not ileter Lieut(;nant
Cook and the others from L;<)inL^ imnKMliately on- shore.
'riil)ia, who was of the party, introiluced tlu^ party by per-
forming; somc^ ceriMiionii's which Ik; IkuI practiscxi before at
lliiaiu^ine. After tiiis iIk? licnitenant hoisted a (li!^, and, in
th(' namc^ of his Hritannic Majt^sty, took possession of Ulietea
and th(; three neii^hborinj^ islands, liualieine, Otaha, anil
Holabola, all of which were in sii^dit.

I'Voin 'rui)ia tlu'y learnird that there were various islands
lyinij^ at different distances au»l in difftTcnt diri;ctions from
Oheteroa, bc^tween the south and northwc^st, ami that to the
northeast was Hird Island. This he representiul as l)ein<(
at the distance of three days' sail, but he seemed most di;sir-
oiis that Lieut(Miant Cook should proceed to the westward,
ami described several islands in that situation which he had
visited. It appeared from his description of them that these
were probably Boscawen and Keppel's islands, which were
discovered by Captain Wallis. The farthest island that Tupia
knew of to the southward lay, he said, at the distance of
about two days' sail from Oheteroa and was called Moutou.

On the 15th of Aug^ust they sailed from Oheteroa, and on
the 25th of the same month was celebrated the anniversary
of their departure from Enj^land. The comet was seen on
the 30th. It was a little above the horizon, in the eastern
part of the heavens, at one in the morning, and at about half
an hour after four it passed the meridian, and its tail sub-
tended an angle of forty-two degrees. Tupia, who was
among others that observed the comet, instandy cried out

AN r AUCTK : i:X IM .( >K A I'll >NS.

h I

•fl

tlial as soon as it shouM ho seen Ity llu* pr()|)l«' of Hnlihula
tlu'V woiiKI attack the inhahilaiUs of I'lictca. who would h(
oMij^ctl to (Miilcavor lo proscrvc their lives by (Iccin}^ with thi
utmost precipitation to the mountains.

i^n l\\c (>th of ()ctt>l)er, i 70(j, land was discovered, whidi
appeared to he iar^e. When on the next day it was luoic
distinctly visible ii assurunl a still larger appearance and dis-
pl.ut'il lour or live ranijt's ol hills, risini; on/ over the oilier.
.d>ove all of which was a chain ol" niountains'ol an enormous
heit;!)!. This land naturally hecanu' the subject ol nuuh
eav;er ce»nversalion, and the jL;«Mieral opinion ol all on bo.nti
the I'.ndi'avoi; w.is that they had lound the 7?r/<f mrstrn/is
i>iii\i;i!i/it. In fact, it was a part ol" New Zealand, where the
tirst advcMitures tlu* men met with were very unph'asant on
account A the hostile disposition ol th<' inhabitants.

Lieutenant Cook, haviii!^ anchored on the Sth in a bay at
the entrance ol a small river, went t)n shore in the evening,
accompiiniid by Mr. Hanks ami 1 )r. Solander and atteiuicd
with a party ol men. h(in>; desin»us ol" conversing; with
some natives wiiom he had obserxcd on the o|)positr side ol
the river Irom that on which he landed, he onlered the yawl
in to carry himsi^H" ami his comj>anions ovi'r and left the pin
nace at the entrance. When they came near \.\\v. place win re
the buiians were assembled the latter all ran away, havinsj
left four sailors to take care ol the yawl, walked up to s<n'eral
huts which were about two or three hunilri:il yards from the
water siili^ They had not i^one very far v. hen four men,
armeil with lon^ lances, rushed out of the vvooils, and running
up to attack the boat, would certainly hav(; cut her off if tlu-y
had not been discovereil by those in the pinnace, who called
to the sailors to drop down the stn^am. They instantly
obeyeil. but beino closely pursueil by the natives the (ock-
swain of tlu; pimiace, to whom the charj^c of the boats was
committed, fired a musket over th(Mr heads. At this they
stopped and looked around them; but, their alarm speedily
subsidinj;, they brandished their lances in a threatening; man-
ner, and in a few minutes renewed the pursuit. The firini^of
a second musket over their heads did not draw from them
any kind of notice. At last, one of them having lifted up his
spear to dart it at the boat, another piece was fired, by which
he was shot dead. At the fall of their associate the three rc-
maininof Indians stood for a while motionless and seemed

MKF OK <AnA1N jAMI'S ('(MtK.

O NV»>llM it!

inj; willi lli<

il was more
net' aiul ilis-
r llu* (Ulicr.
in (MWMinniis
•el ol iiuith
\ll on lto.\nl
77V/ (lu.s/rii/is
tl, where llu-
iipliMsaiil on
mts.

\ in a l)ay ;U
ihe <'venin,i^.

nrtrififtl will\ aslonishnwnt. No sooner IkuI tliey n coveretl
tluMns<'Iv<*s tlian tin y wenl l)a«k, «lraj;L;inK •'"' tl''i»«I lnnly alter
theni. I.i<Mit<'nanl C'ooU and Ins Irientls, who ha«l suaj;^letl
A little tlistanee Ironi «a« h other, were ilrawn to^^-ihrr upon
IJK' rei)«»rt of the lirst nuiskel and returned speedily (o the
ho.it, in whieh having en»ssed the river, they soon l«luUI the
Iiulian lyiiv^ <lead upon the ground.

The lieul<'nant l)ein<4 desirous ol estahlishini; an int<M'eours(!
with the natives, ordered, on the lollowiuL; day, three boats lo
he manned with seamen and marines, and pro(<<'d(d lowanls
the shor<\ areompanie»l hy Mr. Hanks, I )r. Solander, 'i'uj)ia
and others. About lilty (»! the inhahilanls seemed lo wait
lor tlu'ir landiiii;^, havinn; se.iied themselves upon the |;rouiwi
on the opposite side ol the river. Thi'; Immul; reeanh'd as a
sii;ii of Tear Li(Mit<'nant Cook, I )r. .Sol.nuh-r, and Tupia
iulvaneed towards them ; huL they had not _L;one many
pares helon! all th<' Indians sl.irted up, and every man pro-
(luceil either a lonv;^ pik«', or a small weapon of ^reen talk.
Th()u.i;h 'l'u|)ia calh-d to them in tin- lanj.;uaj;e ol ( )taheile,
ihcy only answered hy llourishiuL; their vv<'apons, and makini;
sij^Ms lor the men to depart. ( )n a musk«t heiu)^'- linnl wide
of them they dt'sisted from tlu-ir threats, and iaeulenant
0)()k, who had prudently retreat<-d till th(r marines could Ix^
landed, ajL;ain advanced towards them, with Mr. H.inks, Dr.
.Soland<'r, and I'upia, to whom were! now added Mr. (ire(Mi
and Mr. Monkhouse. Though the natives schemed willinj.,^ to
trade, Tupia was simsihh*, durinj^ tlu^ < oursir of his conversa-
tion with th<'m, that their intentions w<'re unfriendly, and of
this he repeatedly warned tlu; men. At len^rili tw«'nty or
thirty q( th<^ Indians wen; induced to cross tlu; river, u|)on
which presents were made th<Mn of iron and heads. On th(;se
they appean^d to set little vahie, and particularly on tin; iron,
not havinj^ the least conce|)ti()n oi its use, so that nothin^^ was
obtained in return (^xceptin^^ a f(;w f(;athers. Their amis, in-
deed, they offered to exchani^c! for those of tlu; voya^^(Ts, and
this b(Mng refused they made various att(*mpts to snatch them
out of their hands. Tupia was now instructed to acrpiaint the
Indians that the men wotdd be oblij^^d to kill them if they
proceeded to any further violence; notwithstanding^, one of
them, while Green happened to turn about, seized his hanj^er,
and retired some little distance with a shout of exulta-
tion. The others, at the same time, began to be extremely

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

insolent, and more of the natives were seen cominj^ to join
them from the opposite side of the river. It beinj^, tlierelorc,
necessary to repress tluMii, Hanks fired, witii small sliot,
at the distance of about fifteen yarils, upon the man who had
taken the hanj;er. 'I'hoiij^h he was struck he did not return
the hans^er, hut continueil to wave it round his heatl whih- he
slowly made his retreat. Monkhouse then fired at liiin
with ball and he instantly dropped. So far, however, were
the Indians from beini^ sufliciently terrified that the main body
of them, who, upon the first discharge, had retired to a nx k
in the middle of the river, bej^an to return, and it was with
no small difficulty that Monkhouse secured llu* hanger.
The whole number of them continuinj;' to advance, thre<' of
the party discharged their pit^ces at them, loaded with small
shot, upon wdiich they swam bark for the shore, and it a|)-
peared, upon their landing, that two or three of them were
wouiuled. While they retired slowly up the country I.ieuten-
ant Cook and his comi)anions re-embarked in their boats.

As the lieutenant had unhappily experienced that nothini^f
at this place couUl be clone with th.ese peoi)le, and found tluu
the water in the river was salt, he proceeded in the boats
round the head of th;? bay in search of fresh water. Reside
this he had formed a design of surprising some of the natives,
and taking them on board that, by kind treatment and j)res-
ents, he might obtain their friendship and lender them the
instruments of establishing for him an amicable intercourse
with their countrymen.

Some further attempts were made to establish an inter-
course with the natives. Lieutenant Coolt on October loth
went on shore for this purpose ; but being unsuccessful in his
endeavors he resolved to re-embark. On the next day the
lieutenant weighed anchor and stood away from this unfortu-
nate and inhospitable place. As it had not afforded a simple
article that was wanted, excepting wood, he gave it the name
of Poverty Bay. By the inhabitants it is called Taoneroa, or
Long Sand. I shall not regularly pursue the course round
New Zealand. In this course they spent nearly six months,
and made large additions to the knowledge of navigation and
geography. By making almost the whole circuit of New-
Zealand they ascertained it to be two islands with a strength
of evidence which no prejudice could gainsay or resist.
They obtained, likewise, a full acquaintance with the inhabi-

IJFK OF CAnAIN JAMES COOK.

tants of the diflrrcnt parts of the country, with rcganl to
whom it was dearly provtul tliat tluiy were cannibals.

While tin; ship was hanlin;; round to the south cml of a
sinaU island, which the lieutenant hatl named Portland, from
its very ijreat resemblance to Portland in tlu; British Chann«l,
she suddenly fell into shoal water ami broken j^round. WhiU;
tiu; ship was in apparent distress the inhabitants of the islantl,
who, in vast numbers, sat on its whiii* cliffs, anil could not
avoid perceiving some appearance of coidusion on board and
some* irrej^ularity in tlu; worUiiii^ of tlu; vessel, were desirous
of taking- advantage of her critic-l situation. Accordin^^ly
five canoes, full of men and well armed, wert; put off with the
utmost expedition, ami dioy canu* so ncNir and shovvc'd so
hostile a disposition by shouting, brandishini; dieir lances, and
usinO^ threatening^ i^^estures, that the lieutenant was in pain for
his small boat, which was slil' employed in sounilini;. By a
musk(!t, which he onlered to 1)»^ fired over them, they were
ratlier provoked dian intimitlated. The Hrinj^ of a four-
pounder loaded with L;rap('-shol, tIiou_<;h purposely ilischari^^ed
wid(^ of diem, produced a better effect. Upon tin? report of
the piece i\\v. bulians all rose up and shouted ; but, instead
of continuiui^ the chase, tlu^y collected themselv(!S tOL;ether,
anel, after a short consultation, went (piietly away.

On the I4di of OctobiM-, Lieutenant Cook havino^ hoisted
out his pinnace and loniidjoat to s<;arch for water, just as
they were about to set off sc;veral boats, hdl of tlu; New Zea-
land |)(;ople, were seen cominij from tlu; shor{^ After some
time live of these boats, liavini^ on board between eii^hty and
ninety men, made' towards tlu; ship, and four more followed
at no ijreat tlistance as if to sustain th(! attack. When the
first five had gotten within ribout a hundr(;d yards of the ICn-
dcavor they began to sing their war song, and, brandishing
their pikes, prepared for an engagenuMit. As the lieutenant
was extremely desirous of avoiding the unhappy necessity of
using fire-arms against the natives, Tupia was ordered to ac-
quaint them that the voyagers had weapons which, like
thunder, would destroy them in a moment ; that they would
immediately convince them of their power by directing their
effect so that they should not be hurt; but that if they per-
sisted in any hostile attempt they would be exposed to the
direct attack of these formidable weapons. A four-pounder,
loaded with grape-shot, was then fired wide of them, and this

r> ' I'

.i).„.i'

1^1

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

expedient was fortunately attended with success. The report,
the flash, and above all the shot, which spread very far in the
water, terrified the Indians to such a degree that they bci^an
to paddle away with all their might. At the instance, how-
ever, of Tupia the people of one of the boats were indiicctl
to lay aside their arms and to come under the stern of the
Endeavor ; in consequence of which they received a variety
of presents.

CHAPTER III.

CAITAIN COOKS VOYAGES.

Hicks Bay-' Jlostility of the Inhalntants — The Transit of Mercury — Nearly Shlpweckd
—South Cnpe — Motany Hay — In ^reat Danger — Ship Aleak — Retitting the Ship for Sea
— Attempt* to put to Sea — The I'unips deciyed— New South \V.\les — Ntw Guinea — An
Aurora Horealis — A Putch 'Settlement — Disease on lioard — Loss of ihiity Men by Death
—Home again from a Foreigh Shore.

While the ship was in Hicks Hay the inhabitants of the
adjoining coast were found to be very hostile. This gave
them much uneasiness, and was, indeed, contrary to their ex-
pectations, for they had hoped that the report of their power
and clemency had spread to a greater extent. At daybreak,
on the 1st of November, 1769, they counted no less than
forty-five canoes that were coming from the shore towards
the Endeavor, and these were followttd by several more from
another place. Some of the Indians traded fairly, but others
of them took what was handed down to them without making
any return and added derision to fraud.

While Lieutenant Cook was near an island which he called
the Mayor, the inhabitants of the neighboring coast displayed
many instances of hostility, and in their traffic committed
various acts of fraud and robbery. As the lieutenant in-
tended to continue in the place five or six days, in order to
make an observation of the transit of Mercury, it was abso-
lutely necessary for the prevention of future mischief to con-
vince these people that they were not to be ill-treated with
impunity. Accordingly some small shot were fired at a thief
of uncommon insolence, and a musket-ball was discharged
through the bottom of his boat. Upon this it was paddled
to about a hundred yards distance, and to the surprise of
Lieutenant Cook the Indians in the other canoes took not the
least notice of their wounded companion, though he bled very
much, but returned to the ship and continued to trade with the
most perfect indifference and unconcern. For a considerable
time they dealt fairly. At last, however, one of them thought

(39)

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

I I,

ft I

h \

S 1-' ^

i
: I'.

fit to move off with two different pieces of cloth which had been
jjiven for the same weapon. When he had gotten to such a
distance tiiat he thougiu himself secure of his prizes a musket
was fired after him, which fortunately struck the boat just at
the water's edge and made two holes in her side. This ex-
cited such an alarm that not only the people who were sliot
at, but all the rest of the canoes made off with the utmost ex-
pedition. As the last proof of superiority, the commander
ordered a round shot to be fired over them, and not a boat
stopped till they got to land.

After an early breakfast on the 9th of November, Lieu-
tenant Cook went on shore with Mr. Green and proper in-
struments to observe the transit of Mercury. Mr. Banks
and Dr. Solander were of the j)arty. The weather had for
some time been very thick, with much rain, but this day
proved so favorable that not a cloud intervened during the
whole transit. The observation of the ingress was made by
Mr. Green alone, Lieutenant Cook being employed in taking
the sun's altitude to ascertain the time.

While tho men were thus engaged on shore they were
alarmed by the firing of a great gun from the ship, and on
their return received the following account of the transaction
from Second Lieutenant Gore, who had been left commanding
officer on board: During the carrying on of a trade with
some small canoes two very large ones came up full of men.
In one of the canoes were forty-seven persons, all of whom
were armed with pikes, stones and darts, and assumed the
appearance of a hostile intention.^ However, after a iitde
time, they began to traffic, some of them offering their arms,
and one of them a square piece of cloth, which makes a part
of their dress, called a Haahanj. Lieutenant Gore having
agreed for it, sent down the price, which was a piece of Brit-
ish cloth, and expected his purchase. But as soon as the In-
dian had gotten the cloth in his possession he refused to part
with his own, and put off his canoe. Upon being threatened
for his fraud, he and his companions began to sing their war
song in defiance and shook their paddles. Though their in-
solence did not proceed to an attack and only defied Gore to
take any remedy in his power, he was so provoked that he
levelled a musket loaded with ball at the offender, while he
was holding the cloth in his hand, and shot him dead. When
the Indian fell all the canoes put off to some distance, but

CAPTAIN CCM)KS VOYAGUS.

:h had been
1 to svich a
;s a ir.uskci
loat ill St at
This cx-
) were shot

utmost ex-
commancler

not a boat

mber, Lieu-
l proper in-
Mr. Banks
;her had for
)ut this day
I durintj the
;as made by
'ed in taking

continued to keep toj^edier in such a manner tliat it was
apprehended they mij^lit still meditate an attack. To secure,
therefore, a safe passa<;e ft)r the boat of the I'^ndeavor, which
was wanted on shore, a round shot was fired with so much ef-
fect over their heads as to make them all tlee with the utmost
precipitation. It was matter of regret to Lieutenant ('ook
that they had not, in the case of the offending Indian, triou
the experiment of a few small shot, which had been success-
ful in former instances of robbery.

On tile 15th Lieutenant Cook sailed out of Mercury Bay.
This name had been given to it on account of the observation
wiiicli liad there been made of the transit of tliat planet over
the sun. The river where oysters iiad been so plentihilly
found he called Oyster River. There is another river at the
head of the bay which is the best and safest place for a ship
that wants to stay any length of time. From tlie number of
mangroves about it the lieutenant named it Mangrove River.
Before the Endeavor left the bay tlic siiip's name and tliat of
the commander were cut upon one of the trees near the
watering-place, together with the date of the year and month
when the navigators were there. ii(;sides this Cook, alLt:
displaying the English colors, took formal possession of tlie
place in the name of his Britannic Majesty, King George the
Tiiird.

The Endeavor, on the 5th of December, was in the most
imminent hazard of being wrecked. At four o'clock in the
morning of that day the voyagers weighed with a light
breeze ; but it being variable with frequent calms they made
litde way. From that time till the afternoon they kept turn-
ing out of the bay, and about ten at night were suddenly be-
calmed, so that the ship could neither wear nor exactly keep
her station. The tide or current setting strong she drove
toward land so fast that before any measures could be taken
for her security she was within a cable's length of the breakers.
Though they had thirteen fathoms of water the ground was
so foul that they did not dare to drop their anchor. In this
crisis, the pinnace being immediately hoisted out to take the
ship in tow, and the men, sensible of their danger, exerting
themselves to the utmost, a faint breeze sprang up off the
land, and they perceived with unspeakable joy that the vessel
made headway. So near was she to the shore, that Tupia,
who was ignorant of the hairbreadth escape they had ex-

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

< \

perienced, was at this very time conversing with the Indians
upon the beach, whose voices were distinctly heard, notwith-
standing the roar of the breakers. Lieutenant Cook now-
thought that all danger was over; but about an hour after-
wards, just as the man in the chains had cried "seventeen
fathoms," the ship struck. The shock threw them into tiie
utmost consternation; and almost instantly the man in the
chain cried out " five fathoms." By this time, the rock on
which the ship had struck being to the windward, she went
off without having received the least damage ; and the water
very soon deepening to twenty fathoms she again sailed in
security.

The inhabitants in the Bay of Islands were found to be far
more numerous than in any other part of New Zealand which
Lieutenant Cook had hitherto visited. It did not appear
that they were united under one head; and, though their
towns were fortified, they seemed to live together in perfect
amity.

The Endeavor, on the 9th of December, lying becalmed
in Doubtless Bay, an opportunity was taken to inquire of the
natives concerning their country ; and they learned from
them, by the help of Tupia, that at the distance of three days
rowing in their canoes, at a place called Moore-Whenniia,
the land would take a short turn to the southward, and thence
extend no more to the west. This place they concluded to
be the land discovered by Tasman, and which had been named
by him Cape Maria Van Diemen. The Lieutenant, finding
the inhabitants so intelligent, inquired further, if they knew
of any country besides their own. To this they answered
that they had never visited any other; but that their ancestors
had told them that there was a country of great extent, to
the northwest by north, or north-northwest, called Ulimaroa.

On the 30th of December they saw the land, which they
judged to be Cape Maria Van Diemen, and which corre-
sponded with the account that had been given of it by the
Indians. The next day, from the appearance of Mount
Camel, they had a demonstration that the breadth of New
Zealand could not be more than two or three miles from sea
to sea. During this part of the navigation two particulars
occur'-ed which are very remarkable. In latitude 35° south,
and in the middle of summer, Lieutenant Cook met with a
gale of wind, which, from its strength and continuance, was

CAPTAIN COOKS VOYAGES.

such as he had scarcely ever been in before ; and he was three
weeks in getting ten leagues to the westward, and five weeks
in getting fifty leagues ; for at this time, being the i st of
lanuary, 1770, it was so long since he had passed Cape Bret.
While the gale lasted they were at a considerable distance
from the land.

At daybreak the next morning he stood in for an inlet, and
at eight got within the entrance. At nine o'clock, there being
little wind, and what there was being variable, the Endeavor
was carried by the tide or current within two cables' length
of the northwest shore, where she had fifty-four fathoms water.
By the help of the boats she was gotten clear; and they
anchored in a very safe and convenient cove.

In passing some rocks on the 9th of March, 1770, in the
night, it appeared in the morning that the ship had been in the
most imminent danger. Her escape was indeed critical in the
highest degree. To these rocks, which, from their situation,
are so well adapted to catch unwary strangers, Lieutenant
Cook gave the name of the Traps. On the same day he
reached a point of land which he called the South Cape, and
which he supposed, as proved in fact to be the case, the
southern extremity of the country.

In sailing, on the 14th, the Endeavor passed a small narrow
opening in the land, where there seemed to be a very safe
and convenient harbor, formed by an island, which lay east-
ward in the middle of the opening. On the land behind the
opening were mountains the summits of which were covered
with snow that appeared to have recently fallen. Indeed,
for two days past, they had found the weather extremely cold.
On each side the entrance of the opening the land rises almost
perpendicularly from the sea to a stupendous height. For
this reason Lieutenant Cook did not choose to carry the ship
into the harbor. He was sensible that no wind could blow
there but right in or right out; and he did not think it by
any means advisable to put into a place whence he could not
have gotten but with a wind which experience had taught him
did not blow more than one day in a month. Sagacious as
this determination of Lieutenant Cook was it did not give
universal satisfaction.

By the 27th of March they had circumnavigated the whole
country of Tovy-Poenammoo, and arrived within sight of the
island formerly mentioned, which lies at the distance of nine

•ir

•\: !,

li 1

■"••' ai

" :ii P'^

L'iii

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

ill

leagues from the entrance of Queen Charlotte's Sound. Hav-
ing at this time thirty tons of empty water-casks on board, it
was necessary to fill them before proceeding on the voyage.
For this purpose they hauled round the island and entered a
bay, situated between that and Queen Charlotte's Sound, and
to which the name was given of Admiralty Bay.

The business of wooding and watering having been com-
pleted on the 30th, and the ship being ready for the sea, the
point now to be determined was, what route should be pur-
sued in returning home that would be of most advantage to
the public service. Upon this subject the Lieutenant thought
proper to take the opinion of his officers. He had himself a
strong desire to return by Cape Horn, because that would
have enabled him to determine whether there is or is not a
southern continent. But against this scheme was a sufficient
objection. It was at last resolved that they should return by
the East Indies ; and that with this view they should steer
westward till" they should fall in with the east coast of New
Holland, and then follow the direction of that coast to the
northward till they should arrive at its northern extremity.
If that should be found impracticable it was further resolved
that they should endeavor to fall in with the land, or islands,
said to have been discovered by Quiros.

In the six months wb'nh Lieutenant Cook had spent in the
examination of New Zealand he made very large additions
to the knowledge of geography and navigation. That coun-
try was first discovered in the year 1642 by Abel Jansen
Tasman, a Dutch navigator. He traversed the eastern coast
from latitude 34° 43', and entered the strait now called Cook's
Strait ; but being: attacked bv the natives soon after he came
to an anchor, in the place which he named Murderer's Bay,
he never went on shore. Nevertheless he assumed a kind
of claim to the country by calling it Staten Land, or the Land
of the States, in honor of the States-General. It is now usually
distinguished in maps and charts by the name of New Zealand.
The whole of the country, excepting that part of the coast
which was seen by Tasman from on board his ship, continued
from his dnie, to the voyage of the Endeavor, altogether un-
known.

On the 31st of March Lieutenant Cook sailed from Cape
Farewell in New Zealand, and pursued his voyage to the
westward. New Holland, or, as it is now called, New South

CAPTAIN COOK S VOYAGES.

Wales, came in sight on the 19th of April, and on the 28th
of that month the ship anchored in Botany Bay.

It was upon account of the great quantity c'* plr.nts which
Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander collected in this place that Lieu-
tenant Cook was induced to give it the name of Botany Bay.
It is situated in the latitude of 34° south, and in the longitude
of 208° 37' west.

At daybreak on the 6th of May the navigators sailed from
Botany Bay, and as they proceeded on their voyage the lieu-
tenant gave the names that are indicated upon the map to tlie
bays, capes, points, and remarkable hills which successively
appeared in sight. On the 14th the Endeavor advanced to
the northward, being then in latitude 30° 22' south, and longi-
tude 206° 39' west.

> In navigating the coast of New South Wales, where the
sea in all parts conceals shoals which suddenly project from
the shore, and rocks that rise abruptly like a pyramid from
the bottom, Lieutenant Cook had hitherto conducted his ves-
sel in safety for an extent of 22° of latitude, being more than
1,300 miles. But, on the loth of June, as he was pursuing
his course from a bay to which he had given the name of
Trinity Bay, the Endeavor fell into a situation as critical and
dangerous as any that is recorded in the history of navigation.
They were now near the latitude assigned to the islands that
were discovered by Quiros, and which, without sufficient
reason, some geographers have thought proper to join to this
land. The ship had the advantage of a fine breeze and a
clear moonlight night, and in standing off from six till near
nine o'clock, she had deepened her water from fourteen to
twenty-one fathoms. But while they were at supper it sud-
denly shoaled, and they fell into twelve, ten, and eight fathoms,
within the compass of a few minutes. Lieutenant Cook
immediately ordered every man to his station, and all was
ready to put about and come to an anchor, when deep water
being met with again at the next cast of the lead, it was con-
cluded that the vessel had gone over the tail of the shoals
which had been seen at sunset, and that the danger was now
over. This idea of security was confirmed by the water's
continuing to deepen to twenty and twenty-one fathoms, so
that the men left the deck in great tranquillity and went
to bed. However, a little before eleven, the water shoaled
at once from twenty to seventeen fathoms, and before the lead

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

lU'

could be cast again the ship struck and remained immovable,
excepting so far as she was influenced by the heaving of the
surge, tiiat beat her against the crags of the rock upon whicii
she lay. A few moments brought every person upon deck,
with countenances suited to the horrors of the situation. On
examining the depth of water round the ship, it was speedily
discovered that the misfortune was equal to their apprehen-
sions. The vessel had been lifted over a ledge of the rock,
and lay in a hollow within it, in some places of which hollow-
there were from three to four fathoms, and in others not so
many feet^of water. To complete tiie scene of distress, it
appeared that the sheathing boards from the bottom of the
ship were floating away all round her, and at last her false
keel ; so that every moment was making way for the whole
company's being swallowed up by the rushing in of the sea.
There was now no chance but to lighten her, and the oppor-
tunity had unhappily been lost of doing it to the best advan-
tage ; for, as the Endeavor had gone ashore just at high
water, and by this time it had considerably fallen, she would,
when lightened, be but in the same situation as at first. The
only alleviation of this circumstance was, that as the tide
ebbed, the vessel settled to the rocks, and was not beaten
against them with so much violence. The crew had some
hope from the next tide, though it was doubtful whether the
ship would hold together so long, especially as the rock kept
grating part of her bottom with such force as t^ be heard in
the fore store-room. No effort, however, was remitted from
despair of success. That no time might be lost, the water
was inmiediately started in the hold and pumped up ; six
guns, being all that were upon the deck, a quantity of iron
and stone ballast, casks, hoop-staves, oil-jars, decayed stores,
and a variety of things besides, were thrown overboard with
the utmost expedition. Every one exerted himself, not only
without murmuring and discontent, but even with an alacrity
which almost approached to cheerfulness. So sensible, at the
same time, were the men of cheir situation, that not an oath
was heard among them, the detestable habit of profane swear-
ing being instantly subdued by the dread of incurring guilt
when a speedy death was in view.

While Lieutenant Cook and all the people about him were
thus employed, the opening of the morning of the nth of
June presented them with a fuller prospect of their danger.

CAPTAIN COOKS VOYAGES.

The land was seen by them at about eight leagues distance,
without any island in the intermediate space, upon which, if
the ship had gone to pieces, they might have been set ashore
by the boats, and carried thence by different turns to the
main. Gradually, however, the wind died away, and early in
the forenoon it became a dead calm. High-water being e.x-
pected at eleven in the morning, and everything being made
ready to heave her off if she should float, it became necessary
to lighten her still more, and everydiing was thrown over-
board that could possibly be spared. Hitherto the Endeavor
had not admitted much water, but as the tide fell it rushed in
so fast that she could scarcely be kept free, though two pumps
were incessantly worked. Tliere were now no hopes but
from the tide at midnight, to prepare for taking the advantage
of which the most vigorous efforts were exerted. About five
o'clock in the afternoon the tide began to rise, but, at the
same time, the leak increased to a most alarming degree.
Two more pumps, therefore, were manned, one of which un-
happily would not work. Three pumps, however, were kept
of.'ino:, and at nine o'clock the ship righted. Nevertheless,
the leak had gamed so considerably upon her, that it was
imagined that she must go to the bottom as soon as she
ceased to be supported by the rock. It was, indeed, a dread-
ful circumstance to Lieutenant Cook and his men that they
were obliged to anticipate the floating of the vessel not as an
earnest of their deliverance, but as an event which probably
would precipitate their destruction. They knew that their
boats were not capabl'^ of carrying the whole of them on
shore, and that when the dreadful crisis should arrive, all
command and subordination being at an end, a contest for
preference might be expected, which would increase even the
horrors of shipwreck, and turn their rage against each other.
Some of them were sensible that if they should escape to the
mainland, they were likely to suffer more upon the whole
than those who would be left on board to perish in the waves.
The latter would only be exposed to instant death, whereas
the former, when they got on shore, would have no lasdng or
effectual defence against the natives, in a part of the country
where even nets and firearms could scarcely furnish them
with food.

The dreadful moment which was to determine their fate
drew on ; and every one saw, in the countenances of his com-

iHi'

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I ra

" -I; • '

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

panions, the picture of his own sensations. The lieutenant
ordered the capstan and windlass to be manned with as many
hands as could be spared from the pumps, and the ship hav-
ing floated, the grand effort was made, and she was heaved
into deep water. It was no small consolation to find that she
did not now admit of more water than she had done when
upon the rock. By the gaining of the leak upon the pumps,
three feet and nine inches of water were in the hold ; not-
withstanding, the men did not relinquish their labor. Tims
they held the water as it were at bay: but having endured
excessive fatigue of body and agitation of mind for more than
twenty-four hours, they began at length to flag. None of
them could work at the pump above five or six minutes to-
gether ; after being totally exhausted they threw themselves
down upon the deck. When those who succeeded them had
worked their time, and in their turn were exhausted, they
tlirew themselves down in the same manner, and the others
started up again to renew their labor. The foretopmast and
foreyard were next erected, and there being a breeze from
the sea, the Endeavor got once more under sail.

It was not possible long to continue the labor by which the
pumps had been made to gain upon the leak ; and as the ex-
act place of it could not be discovered, there was no hope of
stopping it within. At this crisis Monkhouse, one of the
midshipmen, came to Lieutenant Cook, and proposed an ex-
pedient he had once seen used on board a merchant ship,
which had sprung a leak that admitted more than four feet
of water in an hour, and which by this means had been safely
brought from Viro^inia to London. To Monkhouse, there-
fore, the care of the expedient, which is called fothering the
ship, was, with proper assistance, committed ; and his method
of proceeding was as follows : He took a lower studding sail,
and having mixed together a large quantity of oakum and
wool, he stitched it down, as lightly as possible, in handfuils
upon the sail, and spread over it the dung of the sheep of the
vessel, and other filth. The sail being thus prepared, it was
hauled under the ship's bottom by ropes, which kept it ex-
tended. When it came under the leak, the suction that car-
ried in the water, carried in with it the oakum and wool from
the surface of the sail. In other parts the water was not
sufficiently agitated to wash off the oakum and the wool.
The success of the expedient was answerable to the warmest

)

CAPTAIN COOK S VOYAGES.

expectations ; for hereby the leak was so far reduced that, in-
stead of gaining upon three pumps, it was easily kept under
with one. Here was such a new source of confidence and
comfort, that the men could scarcely have expressed more
joy if they had been already in port. It had lately been the
utmost object of their hope to run the ship ashore in some
harbor, either of an island or the main, and to build a vessel
out of her materials, to carry them to the East Indies. Noth-
inj^, however, was now thought of but to range along the
coast in search of a convenient place to repair the damage
the Endeavor had sustained.

To complete the history of this wonderful preservation, it
is necessary to bring forward a circumstance, which could not
be discovered till the ship was laid down to be repaired. It
was then found that one of her holes was in a great measure
tilled up by a fragment of the rock, upon which the Endeavor
had struck. To this singular event it was owing, that the
water did not pour in with a violence which must speedily
have involved the Endeavor and all her company in inevita-
ble destruction.

Hitherto none of the names by which Lieutenant Cook had
distinguished the several parts of the country seen by him
were memorials of distress. But the anxiety and danger
which he and his men had now experienced, induced him to
call a point in sight, which lay to the northward, Cape
Tribulation.

The next object after this event was to look out for a har-
bor where the defects of the ship might be repaired, and the
vessel put into proper order for future navigation. On the
14th a small harbor was happily discovered, which was ex-
cellendy adapted to the purpose.

At this time the scurvy, with many formidable symptoms,
began to make its appearance among the crew. Tjpia, in
particular, was so grievously affected with the disease, that all
the remedies prescribed by the surgeon could not retard its
progress. Mr. Green, the astronomer, was also upon the
decline. These and other circumstances embittered the de-
lay which prevented the commander and his companions from
getting on shore. On the morning of the 17th the lieutenant
ventured to weigh, and to put in for the harbor, the entrance
into which was by a very narrow channel. In making the
attempt the ship was twice run aground. At the first time

l|l

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

she went off without any trouble, but the second time she
stuck fast. By proper exertions, in conjunction with the
rising of the tide, she floated, and was soon warped into the
harbor. The succeeding day was employed in erecting two
tents, in landing the provisions and stores, and in makino-
every preparation for repairing the damages which the En
deavor had sustained.

It was not till the 2 2d that the tide so far left the Endeavor
as to give the crew an opportunity of examining her leak.
In the place where it was found, the rocks had made their
way through four planks. Three more planks were greatly
damaged, and there was something very extraordinary in the
appearances of the breaches. Not a splinter was to be seen,
but all was as smooth as if the whole had been cut away by
an instrument.

On the 29th of June Lieutenant Cook, in conjunction with
Mr. Green, observed an emersion of Jupiter's first satellite.
The time here was 2h. 18' 53", which gave the longitude of
the place at 2 1 4° 42' 30" west ; its latitude is 15° 26' south.
The next morning the lieutenant sent some of the men to
take a plan of the harbor, whilst he himself ascended a hill,
that he might gain a full prospect of the sea. On this and
the preceding day, the men had been very successful in haul-
ing the seine. The supply of fish was so great, that the lieu-
tenant was now able to distribute two pounds and a half to
each man.

Early in the morning of the 2d of July, Lieutenant Cook
sent the master out of the harbor, in the pinnace, to sound
about the shoals, and to search for a channel to the north-
ward. A second attempt, which was made this day to heave
off the ship, was as unsuccessful as a former one had been.
The next day the master returned, and reported that he had
found a passage out to sea, between the shoals. On one of
these shoals, which consisted of coral rocks, many of which
were dry at low water, he had landed, and found there cockles
of so enormous a size, that a single cockle was more than two
men could eat. At the same place he met with a great
variety of other shell-fish, and brought back with him a plenti-
ful supply. At high-water another effort was made to Boat
the ship, which happily succeeded ; but it being found that she
had sprung a plank between decks, it became necessary to
lay her ashore a second time.

'M '*:v i^i.

CAPTAIN COOKS VOYAGES.

id time she
)n "with the
Dcd into the
erecting two
I in making
lich the En

he Endeavor
ng her leak.
1 made their
were greatly
•dinary in the
IS to be seen,
1 cut away by

ijunction with
first satellite.

longitude of
15° 26' south,
of the men to
scended a hill,
1 On this and
:essful in haul-
, that the lieu-

and a half to

iutenant Cook
nace, to sound
to the north-
5 day to heave
Dne had been.
;d that he had
3. On one ol
nany of which
1 there cockles
more than two

with a great
h him a plenti-

made to tloat
found that she
e necessary to

On the morning of the 29th, the weather becoming calm
;ind a light breeze having sprung up by land, Lieutenant Cook
sent a boat to see what water was upon the bar, and all
things were made ready for putting to sea. But on the re-
turn of the boat the officer reported that there were only
thirteen feet of water on the bar. As the ship drew thirteen
feet six inches, and the sea breeze set in again in the evening,
all hope of sailing on that day was given up. The v/eather
being more moderate on the 31st, the lieutenant had thoughts
of trying to warp the vessel out of the harbor, but upon
eoiniif out himself in the boat, he found that the wind still
blew so fresh that it would not be proper to make the
attempt. The carpenter, who had examined ilie pum.ps, re-
ported that they were all of them in a state of decay. The
chief confidence of the men was now in the soundness of the
ship, and it was a happy circumstance that she did not admit
more than one inch of water in an hour.

Early on the 3d of August another unsuccessful attempt
was made to warp the vessel out of the harbor, but in the
morning of the next day the efforts were more prosperous,
and t'^e Endeavor got once more under sail, with a light air
from the land, which soon died away and was followed by sea
breezes. With these breezes the ship stood off to sea, east
by north, having the pinnace ahead, which was ordered to
keep sounding without intermission.

At last the Endeavor, early in the morning of the 1 3th of
August, got under sail and successfully passed through one
of the channels or openings in the outer reef which Cook had
seen from the island. When the ship had gotten without the
breakers there was no ground within one hundred and fifty
fathoms, and the crew found a large sea rolling in upon them
from the southeast. This was a certain sign that neither land
nor shoals were near them in that direction.

So happy a change in the situation was sensibly felt in
every breast and was visible in every countenance. They
had been little less than three monthr> in a state that perpet-
ually threatened them with destruction.

The passage or channel through which the Endeavor passed
into the open sea beyond the reef lies in latitude 14° 32' S.
It may always be known by the three high islands within it.
For guiding the way of future voyagers, the commander gave
them the appellation of the Islands of Direction.

ANTARCTrr KXPLORATIONS.

In the prosecution of the voyaije the crew, on the 19th of
Aui^ust, wen^ enconipasseil on i^very side with rocks and
shoals ; hut, as they iuid lately iieen exjmscd to much ^renter
danger and these objects were now become familiar, they be-
gan to regaril tiiem comparatively with little conc(>rn. On
the 2 I St, there being two points in view between which they
could see no laiul, they eonceived hopes of having at last
found a passag(; into the Indian sea. Cook, however, resolved
to land upon an island which lies at the southeast point of the
passage. Accordingly he went into tlu* boat with a party of
men, accompanied by Hanks antl Dr. Solander.

The; men immediately climbeil the highest hill, from which
no land could be seen between tlu; southwest and west south-
west ; so that the lieutenant had not the least doubt of hnclinir
a channel through which he couKl pass to New (iuinea. As
he was now about to quit the coast of New Holland, which
he had traced from latitude thirty-eight to this place and which
he was certain no luiropean had ever seen before, he once
more hoisted English colors. lie hati, indeed, already taken
possession of several particular parts of the country. Hut
he now took possession of the whole eastern coast, with all
the bays, harbors, rivers and islands situated upon it, from
latitude ^S° to latitude; 10° ^4' S., in right of King George the
Third, and by the name ot New South Wales. The party
then fired three volleys of small arms, which were answered
by the same number from the ship. When the men had per-
formed this ceremony upon the island, which they called Pos-
session Island, they re-embarked in their boat, and in conse-
quence of a rapid ebb tide had a very difficult and tedious
return to the vessel.

On the 23d the wind came round to the southwest, and
though it was but a gentle breeze, yet it was accompanied by
a swell from the same quarter, which, in conjunction with
other circumstances, confirmed Lieutenant Cook in his opinion
that he had arrived to the northern extremity of New Hol-
land, and that he had now an open sea to the westward.
These circumstances afforded him peculiar satisfaction, not
only because the dangers and fatigues of the voyage were
drawing to a conclusion, but because it could no longer be
doubted whether New Holland and New Guinea were two
separate isla,nds. The northeast entrance of the strait lies
in the latitude of 10° 39' S. and in the longitude of 218° 36'

C A r lA IN coo K S VO Y A( ; KS.

Wm and tho passaL;(; is fornu'd by tlu* main land and by a
t:()ni:,^cries of isiamls to the iiorilnvcst. called by ihc liciilcnant
tlu' I'riiux; of Wales' islaiuls, and which may probablv extend
as far as to New (uunea. I'heir dillerencc is very oiiat both
in hei|L;ht ant! circuit, and many seenn-d to be well covered
with lu:rba_i;e and wooil, nor was there any doid^t of their
bcin!4' iniiabited.

New I lolland, or, as the eastern part of it was called by
Lieutenant Cook, New South Wales, is tiie larL;-est country
in the known world which doi-s not bear the name of a con-
tinent. 'I'he length of coast, when reduced to a strais^ht line,
was no less than twenty-seven decrees of latitude, amountini^
nearly to two thousand miles, hi fad, the scjuare surface of
the island is much mon^ than e(|ual to the whole of I!uroi)e.

iMom the coast of N(;w South Wales the lieutcMiant steered,
on the 2y\ of Augiist, for the coast of New (iuinea, and on
tlu: 25th fell upon a dant^crous shoal. llie ship was in six
fathoms, but scarcely two were fountl, upon soundinij round
her, at a distance of half a cable's lenL>th. This shoal was of
such ?'^ ''xtent, reaching- Irom the east round by the north
aiKi west to the soulhwt:st, that there was no method for the
vessel to <::et clear of it but by Ikm" sjoinL'- back the way in
which she came. Mere was another hairbreadth c-scape ; for
it was nearly hi^hwater and there ran a short, cocklin^^ sea,
which if the ship had struck must liave soon buli^ed her.

At day-break on the 3d of September they came in sit^ht
of New Guinea, and stood in for it with a fresh ^ale till nine
o'clock, when they broui^ht to, bein^;' in tliree fathoms of water
aiul within about three or four miles of land.

Without stayino- on the coast of New (iuinea the b'ndeavor
directed her course to the westward. Cook had an ojipor-
tunity of rectilyini^ the errors. of former navigators. Very
early in the mornin<4" of the 6lh of Stptendier they passed a
small island which lay to the north-northwest; antl at day-
break they discovered anotlier low island extending from that
quarter to north-northeast.

On the 7th, when the ship was in latitude 9° 30' south
and longitude 229° 34' west, they ought to have been in
sight of the Weasel Isles, which in the charts are laid down
at the distance of twenty or twenty-five leagues from the coast
of New Holland. But as Cook saw nothing of them he con-
cluded that they must have been placed erroneously.

fii'-wi

im'

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

In pursuing their course the navifjators passed the islands
of Timor, Timor-lavet, Rotte and Senian. While they wi-rt;
near ihe two latter islands they observed about ten o'clock at
night a phenomenon in the heavens, which in many particulars
resembled the Aurora Borealis, though in others it was very
different. It consisted of a dull reddish light, which reached
about twenty degrees above the hori/;on ; and though its ex-
tent, at times, varied much, it never comprehended less than
eight or ten points of the compass. Out of the general
appearance there passed rays of light of a brighter color,
which vanished and were renewed nearly in the same man-
ner as those of the Aurora Borealis, but entirely without
the tremulous or vibratory motion which is seen in tiiat
phenomenon.

By the i6th Lieutenant Cook had gotten clear of all the
islands which had then been laid down in the maps as situated
between Timor and Java, and did not expect to meet with
any other in that quarter. But the next morning an island
was seen bearing west-southwest, and at first he believed
that he had made a new discovery. As soon as they had
come close in with the north side of it they had the pleasing
prospect of houses and cocoa-nut trees, and, of what still more
agreeably surprised them, numerous llocks of sheep. Many
of the people on board were at this time in a bad state of
health, and no small number of them had been dissatisfied
with the Lieutenant for not having touched at Timor. He
readily embraced the opportunity of landing at a place which
appeared so well calculated to supply the necessities of the
company, and to remove both the sickness and the discon-
tent which had spread anijng them. This place proved to
be the island of Savu, where a settlement had lately been
made by the Dutch.

The great design of Cook was to obtain provisions, which
after some difficulty and some jealousy on the part of Lange,
the Dutch resident, were procured. These provisions were
nine buffaloes, six sheep, three hogs, thirty dozen of fowls,
many dozen of eggs, some cocoa-nuts, a few limes, a litde
garlic and several hundred gallons of palm-syrup. In obtain-
ing these refreshments at a reasonable price they were assisted
by an old Indian, who appeared to be a person of consider-
able authority under the king of the country. The Lieuten-
ant and his frien,ds were one day very hospitably entertained

CAPIAIN COOKS VOYAGES.

by the kin^ himself, thouj^h the royal etiquette did not per-
mit his 'Tiajesty to partake of the banquet.

On ti.e 2 1 St of September they ^ot under sail, and having
pursued their voyage till the ist ot October, on that day they
came within sight of the island of Java. Durinir their course
from Savu Lieutenant Cook allowed twenty minutes a day
for the westerly current, which he concluded must run strong
at this time, especially on the coast of Java ; and accordingly
he found that this allowance was exacdy equivalent to the
effect of the current upon the ship. Such was the sagacity
of Cook's judgment in whatever related to navigation.

On the 2d, two Dutch ships being seen to lie off Anger
Point, the Lieutenant sent Hicks on board one of them to
inquire news concerning England, from which he had been so
long absent. Hicks brought back the intelligence that the
Swallow, commanded by Captain Carteret, had been at
Batavia two years before.

Ir being universally agreed that the ship could not safely
proceed without an examination of her bottom, Cook deter-
mined to apply for leave to heave her down at Batavia ; and
for this purpose he drew up a request in writing, which, after
he had wait' d first upon the Governor General and then
upon the Council, was readily complied with, and he was told
that he should have everything he wanted.

By the 8th of December the Endeavor was perfectly re-
fitted. From that time to the 24th they were employed
in completing her stock of water, provisions and stores, in
erecting some new pumps, and in various other necessary
operations. All this business would have been effected much
sooner if it had not been retarded by the general sickness of
the men.

In the afternoon of the 24th Cook took leave of the Gov-
ernor of Batavia with whom he had formed connections. In
the meanwhile a seaman, who had run away from one of the
Dutch ships in the road, entered on board the Endeavor.
Upon his being reclaimed as a subject of Holland, Cook, who
was on shore, declared that, if the man appeared to be a
Dutchman, he certainly should be delivered up. When th6
order was carried to Hicks, who commanded on board, he
refused to surrender the seaman, alleging that he was a sub-
ject of Great Britain, born in Ireland. The captain of the
Dutch vessel, in the next place, by a message from the Gov-

;)i '

■r\

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

1 ^ y

ill

jiir

' la

pffifljJS

jjK

ernor General, demanded the man as a subject of Denmark.
To this Cook replied that there nuist be some mistake in the
General's message, since he would never demand of him a
I), nish seaman, whose only crime was that of preferring; the
English to the Dutch service. At the same time the Lieu-
tenant added, that to show the sincerity of his desire to avoid
disputes, if the man was a Dane he should be delivered up
as a courtesy; but that if he appeared to be an English sub-
ject he should be kept at all events. Soon after a letter was
brought from Hicks, containing indubitable proofs that the
seaman in question was a subject of his Britannic majtsty.
This letter Cook sent to the Governor, with an assurance to
his excellency that he would not part with the man on any
terms. A conduct so firm and decisive produced the desired
effect, no more being heard of the affair.

In the evening of the 25th Lieutenant Cook went on board
with Mr. Banks. At this time the sick persons in the ship
amounted to forty, and the rest of the company wece in a
very feeble condition. It was remarkable tiiat every indi-
vidual had been ill excepting the sail-maker, who was an old
man between seventy and eighty years of age, and who was
drunk every day during the residence of the crew at Batavia.
Three seamen, and Mr. Green's servant, died, besides the sur-
geon, Tupia and Tayeto.

On the 27th of December the Endeavor stood out to sea,
and on the 5th of January, 1771, she came to an anchor under
the southeast side of Prince's Island. The desicrn of this was
to obtain a new supply of v/ood and water, and to procure
some refreshments for the sick, many of whom had become
much worse than diey were when they left Batavia.

As the Endeavor proceeded on her voyage to the Cape of
Good Hope die seeds of disease, which had been received at
Batavia, appeared with the most threatening symptoms, and
reduced all to a very melancholy situation. The ship was, in
fact, nothing better than an hospital, in which those who could
go about were not sufficient for a due attendance upon those
who were sick. Lest the water which had been taken in at
Prince's Island should have had any share in ">dding to the
disorder of the men, the Lieutenant ordered it to be cirified
with lime ; and as a further remedy against infection, he di-
rected all the parts of the vessel between the decks to be
washed with vinegar. The malady had taken too deep root

CAPTAIN COOKS VOYAGES.

to be speedily eradicated. Banks wrs reduced so low by it
that for some time there was no hope of his life ; and so
fatal was the disease to many others that almost every night
a dead body was committed to the sea. There were buried
in about the course ot six weeks Sporing, a man who was
one oi' Banks' assistants, Parkinson, his natural history painter,
Green, the astronomer, the boatswain, the carpenter. Monk-
house, the midshipman, another midshipman, the old jolly
sail-maker and his assistant, the ship's cook, the corporal of
the marines, two of the carpenter's crew, and nine seamen —
in all the loss amounted to th;ee and twenty persons, besides
the seven who died at Batavia. It is probable that these
calamitous events, which could not faii of makino- a powe'^ful
impression on the mind of Lieutenant Cook, might give occa-
sion to his turning his thoughts more zealously to those
methods of preserving the health of seamen, which he after-
wards pursued with such remarkable success.

On the 15th of March the Kndeavor arrived off the Cape
of Good Hope ; and as soon as she was brought to an anchor
Cook waited upon the governor, from whom he received as-
surances that he should be furnished with every supply which
the country could afford. His first care was to provide a
proper place for the sick, whose number was not small ; and
a liouse \.as speedily found, wliere it was agnxnl that they
should be lodged and boarded.

The run from Java Head to the Cape of Good Hope did
not furnish many subjects of remark.

The lieutenant having lai'i at the cape to recover the sick
and to refit his vessel till the 14th of April, then stood out of
the bay and proceeded on his voyage homeward. On the
morning of the 29th he crossed his first meridian, having cir-
cumnavigated the globe in the direction from east to west.
The consequence of this was that he had lost a day, an allow-
ance for which had been made at Batavia. On the ist of
May he arrived at St. Helena, where he stayed till the 4th to
refresh.

When Lieutenant Cook departed from St. Helena on the
4th it was in company with the Portland man-of-war and
twelve Indiamen. With this fleet he continued to sail till the
loth, when perceiving that the Endeavor proceeded much
more heavily than any of the other vessels, and that she was
not likely to get home so soon as the rest, he made a signal

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

to speak with the Portland. Upon this Captain Elliot him-
self came on board, and Cook delivered to him the common
log-books of his ship and the journals of some of the officers.
The Lndeavor, however, kept in company with the fleet till
the morning- of the 23d, at which time there was not a single
vessel in sight. On that day Hicks died, and in the evening
his body was committed to the sea with the usual ceremonies.
Charles Clerke, a young man extremely well qualified for the
station, received an order from Cook to act as lieutenant in
Hicks' place.

The rigging and sails of the ship had now become so bad
that something was continually giving way. Nevertheless
Lieutenant Cook pursued his course in safety, and on the loth
of June land, which proved to be the Lizard, was discovered
by Nicholas Young, the boy who had first seen New Zealand.
On the 1 1 th the lieutenant ran up the channel, the next
morning he passed Beechy Head, and in the afternoon of the
same day he came to an anchor in the Downs, and went on
shore at Deal.

Thus ended Lieutenant Cook's first voyage round the
world.

t t'S

i. i '

11.

Elliot him-
he common

the officers,
the fleet till
not a single

the evening

ceremonies,
ilified for the
lieutenant in

-come so bad
Nevertheless
.don the loth
IS discovered
New Zealand,
nel, the next
ernoon of the
, and went on

ge round the

CHAPTER IV.

CAPTAIN cook's VOYAGES.

Cook's Second Expedition in the Ships Resolution and Adventure — Reaching Table Bay-
Fields of Ice — Aurora Australis — Dusky Bay — Queen Charlotte's Sound — Cook Visits
Queen Charlotte's Sound — Scurvy on Board — Pitcairn Island — Society Islands — Return to
Queen Charlotte's Sound — Marquesas Islands — Shepherd's Isles — The New Hebrides —
Third Visit of Queen Charlotte's Sound.

The manner in which Lieutenant Cook had performed his
circumnavigation of the globe justly entitled him to the pro-
tection of government and the favor of his sovereign. Ac-
cordingly he was promoted to be a commander in the British
navy by commission bearing date on the 29th of August, 1 771.

The reputation the navigator had acquired by his late voy-
age was deservedly great, and the desire of the public to be
acquainted with the new scenes and new objects which were
now brought to light was ardendy excited.

Captain Cook, during his voyage, had sailed over the
Pacific Ocean in many of those latitudes in which a southern
continent had been expected to lie. He had ascertained that
neither New Zealand nor New Holland were parts of such a
continent. But the general question concerning its existence
had not been determined by him, nor did he go out for that
purpose, though some of the reasons on which the notion of
it had been adopted were dispelled in the course of his navi-
gation. It is well known how fondly the idea of a Terra
Australis incognita had for nearly two centuries been enter-
tained.

The Earl of Sandwich was possessed of a mind which was
capable of comprehending and encouraging the most enlarged
views and schemes with regard to navigation and discovery.
Accordingly, it was by his particular recommendation that a
resolution was formed for the appointment of an expedition,
finally to determine the question concerning the existence of
a southern continent.

When the design of accomplishing this great object was

(59)

ANrARcnc r.xri.oRAiioNS.

i'V

rc'solvotl upon, it cliil not inlinit of any hesitation l)y whom it
was to hv canicil into cxciution. No person was cstctMncd
0(]ually (lualiliccl witli Captain Cook lor concUirtiiiL; an cntcr-
pns(? the view of whiih was to <;ive the ntniost possible extent
to the qeooraj)hy of the olohe, antl the knowU'cli^e of naviga-
tion, l'\>r the j;real(M' ailvanta^e of the nmlertakinj;-, it was
cleteriuintHl that two ships should be employed ; and imich
attention was paiil to the choice of them, and to their i'(|iiip-
nient for the servici*. After mature deliberation bv the Navv
HiKU'd, liurini;- which particular ri\<;ard was had to the ca|)-
tain's wisdom and experience, it was ai^reed that no vessels
were so i)roper k)r discoveries in distant unknown parts as
those which were constiuctcnl like tlu; I'auleavor, Tiiis opin-
ion concurriu!:^' with that of the I'larl of Saiulwich, the ad-
miralty came to a resolution that two ships should be pro-
vidi'd oi a similar construction. Accordin<>lv, two vessels.
both of which had been built at Whitby, by the same person
who built tlu' l"'ndeavor, were purchased of Captain VVilliani
Hammond, of llull. They were about k urteen or fifteen
months old at the time when they were bou<;ht, aiul, in Cap-
tain Cook's judonuMit, were as well adapted to the intended
service as if tluy had been exj)ressly constructed for that;
purpose. The larger of the two, which consisted of 462 tons
burthen, was namcxl the Resolution. To the other, which
was ^;;6 tons burthen, was j^iven the name of the Adventure.
On tlie 28th of November, 1771, Ca])tain Cook was appointed
to the command of the former; aiul, about the same tlnic,
Tobias Furneaux was promoted to the command of th(; latter.
The complement of the Resolution, including c)fficers and
men, was fixed at 112 persons, and that of the Atlventure at
81. In the e(|uipment of these ships every circumstance was
attended to that could contribute to the comfort and success
of the voyage. They were fitted in the most complete; man-
ner, and were supplied with every extraordinary article whicii
was su^s^ested to be necessary or useful. Lord Sandwich,
whose zeal was indcfatij^able upon this occasion, visited the
vessels from time to time, to be assured that the whole equij)-
ment was a_q;reeable to his wishes, and to the satisfaction ol
those who were to engage in the expedition. Nor were the
Navy and \Mctualling Boards wanting in procuring for the
ships the very best of stores and provisions, with some alter-
ations in the species of them, that were adapted to the nature

CAITAIN COOKS VlA'AGKS.

by whom it
IS fstccnu'tl
lo an (Mitcr-
^sil>lr t'xUMil
I' of navii;;\-
.ikini;'. it was
; ami imuli
I ilu'ir vi.\\\\\)-
by the Navy
to the cap-
\t no vessels
own i^arts as
. This opin
wich. the ail-
lOuKl be pro-
two vessrls,
' same person
plain Williiun
'vi\ or liPu'en
t. anil, in Cap-
j the inleiulcd
icted tor lluU.
oil of 462 tons
other, which
\c Aclventnrc.
was api)oinli'il
he same time,
d of the; latter.
T officers ;mil
"Adventure at
■umstance was
rt anil sncciss
^omi)lete maiv
y article which
orcl Sandwich.
Ion, visited the
10 whole equip;
satisfaction ot
Nor were the
ciiriPi,^ for d^^-
lith some alter-
to the nature

of the rnterpriso; besides which, there was an ample supply
of anti scorbutic articles. :,iuh as malt, sour krout, salted cab-
ha^e. portable broth, salouj), mustard, marmalade of carrots,
and inspissated juice of wort and beer.

No less atteiition was |)aid to the cause of science in *^en-
eral. The admiralty en<;aL:^ed William 1 lodges, an (excellent
landscape painter, to embark on the voya_L;(', in order to make
drawings and paintini^s of such ol)j<cts as could not so wi^U
!)(• comprehended from written descriptions, John Reinhold
I'orster and liis son were WwA upon to exi)lore and collect
the natural history of th(^ countries which nuL,du be visited,
and an ample sum was i^ranted by Parliament for the purpose,
i'hat nothin;^ mioht be wantini^ to accomplish the scientific
views of th(; expedition, the Board of Lonj^itude a^n'(>.ed with
William Wales and William H^.yh^y to make astronomical
ohsiM-vations. Wali'S was stationi^d in the Resolution and
HayK^y in tlu; Adventure. By the same board they W(;re
furnished with the best of instruments, and j)articularly with
four time-pit;ces, three constructed by Arnold, and one by
Kendal on Harrison's principles.

'I'hou^^h Captain Cook had bi:en aj)i)oInted to the commaritl
of tin; Resolution on the 28di of NoveinbiM", 1771, such w(;re
the* preparations n(xessary for so lon^- and important a voy-
age, and the imp(!dim{Mits which occasionally and unavoidably
occurrcHl, that the ship did not sail from Deptford till the 9th
of April followinn^, nor did she leave Lonj; Reach till the loth
of May. In [)lyin_L:^ down the river it was found necessary to
put into Sheerness, in order to make, some alterations in h(;r
upper works. These the officers of the yard were directed
immediately to take in hand, and Lord Sandwich and Sir
Hui^h Palliser came clown to see them executed in the most
effectual manner. The ship beini*^ atj^ain completed for sea
hy the 2 2cl of June, Captain Cook on that day sailed from
Slieerness, and, on the 3d of July, joined the Adv^iture in
Plymouth Sound.

On the 13th of July Captain Cook sailed from Plymouth,
and on the 29th of the same month anchored in Funchiale
Road, in the island of Madeira. Havini]^ obtained a supply
of water, wine, and other necessaries at that island, he left it
on the 1st of August, and sailed to the southward.

The captain havinor found that his stock of water would not
last to the Cape of Good Hope, without putting his men to a

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

> t

I «

scanty allowance, resolved to stop at St. Jago, one of the
Cape de Verd islands, for a supply. At Port Praya, in this
island, he anchored on the loth of August, and by the 14111
had completed his water and procured some other refresh-
ments; upon which he set sail, and prosecuted his course.

On the 8th of September they crossed the line in the longi-
tude 8° west, and proceeded, without meeting anything re-
markable, till the 1 1 th of October, when at 6 hrs. 24 min. 1 2
sec, by Kendal's watch, the moon rose about four digits
eclipsed, soon after which the men prepared to observe the
end of the eclipse.

Cook had been informed, before he left England, that he
sailed at an improper season of the year, and that he should
meet with much calm weather, near and under the line. But
though such weather may happen in some years, it is not
always, or even generally, to be expected. So far was it
from being the case, that he had a brisk southwest wind in
those very latitudes where the calms had been predicted ; nor
was he exposed to any of the tornadoes which are so much
spoken of by other navigators.

On the 30th the Resolution and Adventure anchored in
Table Bay ; soon after which Captain Cook went on shore,
and, accompanied by Captain Furneaux, and the two For-
sters, waited on Baron Plettenberg, the Governor of the Cape
of Good Hope, who received the men with great politeness,
and promised them every assistance the place could afford.
From him Cook learned that two French ships from the
Mauridus, about eight months before, had discovered land, in
the latitude of 48° south, along which they sailed forty miles,
till they came to a bay, into which they were upon the point
of entering, when they were driven off and separated in a
hard gale of wind. Previously to this misfortune, they had
lost some of their boats and people that had been sent to
sound the bay. He was also informed by Baron Plettenberg
that in the month of March two other French ships from the
island of Mauritius had touched at the cape in their way. to
the South Pacific Ocean, where they were going to make dis-
coveries, under the command of M. Marion.

On the 2 2d of November Cook sailed from the Cape of
Good Hope, and proceeded on his voyage in search of a
southern continent. Having gotten clear of the land, he
directed his course for Cape Circumcision ; and, judging that

CAPTAIN COOK\S VOYAGES.

cold weather would soon approach, he ordered slops to be
served to such of the people as were in want of them, and
gave to each man the fear-nou<j^ht jacket and trousers allowed
by the Admiralty. On the 29th the wind, which was west-
north-west, increased to a storm, that continued, with some
few intervals of moderate weather, till the 6th of December.
By this gale, which was attended with hail and rain, and which
blew at times with such violence that the ships could carry no
sails, they were driven far to the eastward of their intended
course, and no hopes were left to the captain of reaching
Cape Circumcision. A still greater misfortune was the loss
of the principal part of the live-stoci< on board, consisting of
slieep, hogs, and geese. At the same time, the sudden tran-
sition from warm, mild weather, to weather which was ex-
tremely cold and wet, was so severely felt by the crew, that
it was necessary to make some addition to their allowance of
spirits, by giving each of them a dram on particular occa-
sions.

On the loth of December, began to meet with islands of
ice. One of these islands was so much concealed from them
by the haziness of the weather, accompanied with snow and
sleet, that they were steering directly towards it, and did not
see it till it was at a less distance than that of a mile.

By Sunday the 17th of January, 1773, Cook reached the
latitude of 67° 15' south, when he could advance no farther.
At this time the ice was entirely closed to the south, in the
whole extent from east to west-south-west, without the least
appearance of any opening.

On the morning of the 17th of February, between mid-
night and three o'clock, lights were seen in the heavens, simi-
lar to those which are known in the northern hemisphere by
the name of the aurora borealis. Captain Cook had never
heard that an aurora australis had been seen before. The
officer of the watch observed that it sometimes broke out in
spiral rays, and in a circular form, at which time its light was
very strong, and its appearance beautiful. It was not per-
ceived to have any particular direction. On the contrary, at
various times, it was conspicuous in different parts of the
heavens, and diffused its light throughout the whole atmos-
phere.

On the 20th they imagined that they saw land to the south-
west. Their conviction of its real existence was so strong,

ANlAUCriC EXPLORATIONS.

ii n

that they had no doubt of the matter, and accordingly they
endeavored to work up to it, in doing which the weather was
favorable to their purpose. However, what had been taken
for land proved only to be clouds, that in the evening en-
tirely disappeared, and left a clear horizon, in which nothing
could be discerned but ice islands. At night the aurora
australis was again seen, and the appearance it assumed was
very brilliant and luminous. It first discovered itself in the
east, and in a short time spread over the whole heavens.

As Captain Cook proceeded in examining Dusky Bay, he
occasionally met with some few more of the natives, with re-
gard to whom he used every mode of conciliation.

One employment, while in Dusky Bay, consisted in seal
hunting, an animal which was found serviceable for three
purposes. The skins were made use of for rigging, the fat
afforded oil for the lamps, and the flesh was eaten. On the
24th of March the captain, having five geese remaining of
those he had brought with him from the Cape of Good Hope,
went and left them at a place to which he gave the name of
Goose Cove. This place he fixed upon for two reasons:
first, because there were no inhabitants to disturb them ; and
secondly, because here was the greatest supply of proper
food ; so that he had no doubt of their breeding, and hoped
that in time they might spread over the whole country, to its
eminent advantage. Some days afterward, when everything
belonging to the ship had been removed from the shore, he
set fire to the topwood, in order to dry a piece of ground,
which he dug up, and sowed with several sorts of garden
seeds. The soil, indeed, was not such as to promise much
success to the planter ; but it was the best that could be dis-
covered.

The 25th of April was the eighth fair day they had succes-
sively enjoyed ; and there was reason to believe that such a
circumstance was very uncommon in the place where they
now lay, and at that season of the year. This favorable
weather afforded them the opportunity of more speedily com-
pleting their wood and water, and of putting the ship into a
condition for sea. On the evening of the 25th it began to
rain,- and the weather was afterward extremely variable,
being, at times, in a high degree wet, cold, and stormy.
Nothing, however, prevented Captain Cook from prosecuting
his search into every part of Dusky Bay.

CAPTAIN COOKS VOYAGES.

clingly they
k'cathcr was
been taken
evening en-
lich notbinn^

the aurora
ssumed was

itself in the
leavens.
Lisky Bay, he
ives, with re-

iisted in seal
ble for three
gging, the fat

iten. 9" ^^^''
remaining of

f Good Hope.

I the name of

two reasons:

irb them ; and

,ply of proper

,g, and hoped

country, to its

,en everything

ii the shore, he

:ce of ground,

,rts of garden

promise much

t could be dis-

The inhabitants, however, are of the same race with the
other natives of New Zealand, speak the same language, and
adhere nearly to the same customs. Their mode of life ap-
pears to be a wandering one, and though they are few in
number, no traces were remarked of their families being con-
nected together in any close bonds of union or friendship.

While the Resolution lay in the bay Wales made a variety
of scientific observations, relative to latitude and longitude,
the variation of the compass and the diversities of the tides.

When Captain Cook left Dusky Bay he directed his course
for Queen Charlotte's Sound, where he expected to find the
Adventure. This was on the nth of May, and nothing re-
markable occurred till the 17th, when the wind at once flat-
tened to a calm, the sky became suddenly obscured by dark,
dense clouds, and there was every prognostication of a tem-
pest. Soon after six water-spouts were seen, four of which
rose and spent themselves between the ship and the land ; the
fifth was at a considerable distance on the other side of the
vessel, and the sixth, the progressive motion of which was not
in a straight, but in a crooked line, passed within fifty yards
of the stern of the Resolution without producing any evil ef-
fect. As the captain had been informed that the firing of a
gun would dissipate water-spouts, he was sorry that he had
not tried the experiment. But, though he was near enough
and had a gun ready for the purpose, his mind was so deeply
engaged in viewing these extraordinary meteors that he for-
got to give the necessary directions.

On the next day the Resolution came within sight of Queen
Charlotte's Sound, where Captain Cook had the satisfaction
of discovering the Adventure, and both ships felt uncommon
joy at thus meeting again after an absence of fourteen weeks.
As the events which happened to Captain Furneaux during
the separation of the two vessels do not fall within the imme-
diate design of the present narrative, it may be sufficient to
observe that he had an opportunity of examining, with some-
what more accuracy than had hitherto been done. Van Die-
men's Land, and that his opinion was that there are no straits
between this land and New Holland, but a very deep bay.
He met with further proofs that the natives of New Zealand
are eaters of human flesh.

The morning after Captain Cook's arrival in Queen Char-
lotte's Sound he went at daybreak to look for scurvy-grass,
1

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

celery and other vegetables, and he had the good fortune to
return with a boat-load in a very short time. Having found
that a sufficient quantity of these articles might be obtained
for the crews of both the ships, he gave orders that they
should be boiled with wheat and portable broth every day for
breakfast and with peas and broth for dinner. Experience
had taught him that the vegetables now mentioned, when thus
dressed, are extremely beneficial to seamen in removing the
various scorbutic complaints to which they are subject.

He had entertained a desire of visiting Van Diemen's
Land, in order to inform himself whether it made a part of
New Holland. But as this point had been, in a great meas-
ure, cleared up by Captain Furneaux, he came to a resolution
to continue his researches to the east, between the latitudes
of 41° and 46°, and he directed, accordingly, that the ships
should be gotten ready for putting to sea as soon as possible.
On the 20th he sent on shore the only ewe and ram that re-
mained of those which, with the intention of leaving them in
this country, he had brought from the Cape of Good Hope.
Soon after he visited several gardens that by order of Cap-
tain Furneaux had been 'made and planted with various
articles, all of which were in such a flourishing state that, if
duly attended to, they promised to be of great utility to the
natives. The next day Captain Cook himself set some men
to work to form a garden on Long Island, which he stocked
with different seeds, and particularly with roots of turnips,
carrots, parsnips and potatoes. These were the vegetables
that would be of the most real use to the Indians and of
these it was easy to give them an idea by comparing them
with such roots as they themselves knew. On the 22d Cap-
tain Cook received the unpleasant intelligence that the ewe
and ram which with so much care and trouble he had brought
to this place were both of them found dead. It was supposed
that they had eaten some poisonous plant, and by this accident
all the captain's hopes of stocking New Zealand with a breed
of sheep were instantly blasted.

The intercourse which he had with the inhabitants of the
country during this his second visit to Queen Charlotte's
Sound was of a friendly nature.

On the 2d of June, when the Resolution and Adventure
were almost ready to put to sea, Captain Cook sent on shore.
on the east side of the sound, two goats, a male and a female,

CAPTAIN COOK S VOYAGES.

\ fortune to
aving found
be obtained
rs that they
ivery day for
Experience
-d, when thus
emoving the
ubject.
an Diemen's
de a part of
I great meas-

a resolution
the latitudes

chat the ships
on as possible.
ram that re-
aving them in
f Good Hope,
order of Cap-

1 with various
y state that, if
t utility to the
set some men
ich he stocked
ots of turnips,

the vegetables
ndians and of

imparing them
the 2 2d Cap-
je that the ewe
Ihe had brought
.t was supposed

by this accident
Ind with a breed

labitants of the
leen Charlotte's

land Adventure

. sent on shore,

Lie and a female.

and Captain Furneaux left, near Cannibal Cove, a boar and
two breeding sows. The men had little doubt but that
the country would in time be stocked with these animals, pro-
vided they were not destroyed by the Indians before they be-
came wild. Afterwards there would be no danger, and, as
the natives knew nothing of their beinof left behind, it was
hoped that it might be some time before they would be dis-
covered.

It is remarkable that during Captain Cook's second visit to
Charlotte's Sound he was not able to recollect the face of any
one person whom he had seen there three years before. Nor
did it once appear that even a single Indian had the least
knowledge of the commander or of any of the crew who had
been with him in his last voyage. Hence he thought it
highly probable that the greatest part of the natives who in-
habited this sound in the beginning of the year 1770 had
either since been driven out of it or had removed of their
own accord to some other situation. Not one-third of the
inhabitants were there now that had been seen at that time.
Their stronghold on the Point of Notuara was deserted, and
in every part of the sound many forsaken habitations were
discovered. In the captain's opinion there was not any reason
to believe that the place had ever been very populous. From
comparing the two voyages together it may be collected that
the Indians of Eaheinomauwe are in somewhat of a more
improved state of society than those of Tavaipoenammoo.

On the 7th of June Captain Cook put to sea from Queen
Charlotte's Sound, with the Adventure in company. It was
found on the 29th of July that the crew of the Adventure
were in a sickly state. Her cook was dead, and about twenty
of her best men were rendered incapable of duty by the
scurvy and flux. At this time no more than three men were
on the sick-list on board the Resolution, and only one of
these was attacked with the scurvy. Some others, however,
began to discover the symptoms of it, and, accordingly, re-
course was had to wort, marmalade of carrots and the rob of
lemons and oranges with the usual success.

Captain Cook could not account for the prevalence of the
scurvy being so much greater in the Adventure than in the
Resolution, unless it was owing to the crew of the former
being more scorbutic when they arrived in New Zealand than
the crew of the latter and to their eating few or no vegetables

li f n

" 1 IS'

ANTAUCnC KXPLOKATIONS.

when they lay in Queen Charlotte's Sound. This arose
partly from their want of knowing the right sorts and partly
froTi the dislike which seamen have to the introduction of a
new diet. Their aversion to any unusual change of food is
so great that it can only be overcome by the stt:ady and per-
severing example and authority of a commander. Many of
Captain Cook's officers as well as common sailors disliked the
boiling of celery, scurvy grass and other greens with the peas
and wheat, and by some the provision thus prepared was
refused to be eaten. Hut as this had no effect on the captain's
conduct, their prejudice gradually subsided : they began to
like their diet as much as the rest of their companions, and
at length there was hardly a man in the ship who did not
attribute the freedom of the crew from the scurvy to the beer
and vegetables which had been made use of at New Zealand.
Henceforward, whenever the seamen came to a place where
vegetables could be obtained, Cook seldom found it necessr.ry
to order them to be gathered, and, if they were scarce, happy
was the person who could lay hold on them first.

On the 1st of August, when r.he ships were in the la >
of 25° r and the longitude of 134° 6' W., they were nearly
in the same situation with that which is assigned by Captain
Carteret for Pitcairn's Island, discovered by him in 1 767, For
this island they diligently looked, but saw nothing.

It was the 6th of August before the ships had the advantage
of the trade wind. This they got at southeast, being at that
time in the latitude of 19° 36' south, and the longitude of 131°
32' west. As Captain Cook had obtained the southeast trade
wind, he directed his course to tlie west-northwest, not only
with a view of keeping in with the strength of the wind, but
also to get to the north of the islands discovered in his forniei'
voyage, that he might have a chance of meeting with any
other islands which might lie in the way. It was in the track
which had been pursued by M. De Bougainville that he now
proceeded. He was sorry that he could not spare time to
sail to the north of this track ; but at present, on account of
the sickly state of the Adventure's crew, the arriving at a
place where refreshments could be procured was an object
superior to that of discovery. To four of the islands which
were passed by Captain Cook, he gave the names of Resolu-
tion Island, Doubtful Island. Furneaux Island, and Adventure
Island.

CAPTAIN COOKS VOYAGES.

Early in the mornin<^ on the 15th of August, 1773, the
ships came within sight of Osnaburnr Island, or Maitea, which
had been discovered by Captain VVallis. Soon after, Captain
Cooi^ acquainted Captain Furneaux that it was his intention
to put into Oaiti-piiia Bay, near the southeast end of Ota-
heite, for the purpose of procurinof what refreshments he
could from that part of the island, before lie went down to
Matavai. At six in the evening the island was seen bearing
west, and they continued to advance towards it till midnight,
when they brought to till four o'clock in the morning, after
which they sailed in for tlie land with a fine breeze at east.
At daybreak they found themselves within the distance of
half a league from the reef; and, at the same time, the breeze
began to fail them, and was at last succeeded by a calm. It
now became necessary for the boats to be hoisted out, in
order to tow off the ships ; but all the efforts to keep them
from being carried near the reef were insufficient for the pur-
pose. As the calm continued, the situation of the vessels
became still more dangerous. Captain Cook, however, en-
tertained hopes of getting round the western point of the reef
and into the bay. But, about two o'clock in the afternoon,
when he came before an opening or break of the reef, through
which he had flattered himself that he might get with the
ships, he found, on sending to examine it, that there was not
a sufficient depth of water. Nevertheless, this opening caused
such an indraught of the tide of flood through it, as was very
near proving fatal to the Resolution ; for as soon as the ves-
sels got into the stream, they were carried towards the reef
with great impetuosity. The moment the captain perceived
this he ordered one of the warping machines, which was held
in readiness, to b'^ carried out with about 400 fathoms of rope,
but it did not produce the least effect; they had now in pros-
pect the horrors of shipwreck. They were not more than
two cables* length from the breakers ; and, though it was the
only probable method which was left of saving the ships, they
could find no bottom to anchor. An anchor, however, they
did drop ; but before it took hold and brought them up, the
Resolution was in less than three fathoms of water, and
struck at every fall of the sea, which broke close under her
stern in a dreadful surf, and threatened her crew every mo-
ment with destruction. Happily the Adventure brought up
without striking. Presently the Resolution's crew carried

U' '

■'.I

pi.

f f

1 y

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

out two Other anchors with hawsers to each, and these found
ground a litde without the bower. By heaving upon them
and cutting away the bower anchor, the ship was gotten
afloat, where Captain Cook and his men lay for some time in
the greatest anxiety. At length the tide ceased to act in tlic
same direction, upon which the captain ordered all the boats
to try to tow off the vessel. Having found this to be prac-
ticable, the two anchors were hoved up, and at that moment
a light air came orf from the land, by which the boats were
so much assistc ^ that the Resolution soon got clear of all
danger. Cook then ordered all the boats to assist the Ad-
venturt but before they reached her, she was under sail with
the land breeze, and in a little time joined her companion,
leaving behind her three anchors, her coasting cable, and two
hawsers, which were never recovered. Thus were they once
more safe at sea, after narrowly escaping being wrecked on
the very island at which, but a few days before, they had
most ardently wished to arrive. It was a peculiarly happy
circumstance that the calm continued, after bringing the ships
into so dangerous a state. For if the sea breeze, as is usually
the case, had set in, the ResoHition must inevitably have been
lost, and probably the Advencure likewise.

On the 17th the Resolution and Adventure anchored in
Oaiti-piha Bay, immediately upon which they were crowded
with the inhabitants of the country, who brought with them
cocoanuts, plantains, bananas, anples, yams, and other roots,
which were exchaneed for nails and beads.

The fruits which were procured at Oaiti-piha Bay contrib-
uted greatly to the recovery of the sick people belonging to
the Adventure. Many of them who had been so ill as to be
incapable of moving without assistance, were in the course of
a few days so far recovered that they were able to walk about
of themselves. When the Resolution entered the bay she
had but one scorbutic man on board, a marine, who had long
been sick, and who died the second d~y after her arrival of a
complication of disorders, which had not the least mixture of
the scurvy.

On the 24th the ships put to sea, and arrived the next
evening in Matavai Bay. Before they could come to an
anchor the decks were crowded with ^he natives, many of
whom Captain Cook knew, and by most of whom he was well
remembered. Among a large multitude of people who were

V -li'

."::,V

CAPTAIN COOKS VOYAGES.

collected together upon the shore was Otoo, the king of the
island. Captain Cook paid him a visit on the following day
at Oparree, the place of his residence. Upon his return from
Oparree, he found the tents and the astronomer's observa-
tories set up, on the same spot from which the trnn-it of
Venus had been observed in 1769. The sick, being twenty
in number from the Adventure and one from the Resolution,
all of whom were ill of the scurvy, he ordered to be landed,
and he appointed a guard of marines on shore, under the
command of Lieutenant Edgcumbe.

The sick being nearly recovered, the water completed, and
the nece'^'-.i'-y repairs of the ships finished. Captain Cook de-
termined to put to sea without delay. Accordingly, on the
I St of September, he ordered every tiling to be removed from
the shore, and the vessels to be unmoored, in which employ-
ment the men were engaged the greater part of the day. In
the afternoon of the same day Lieutenant Pickersgill returned
from Attahourou, to which place he had been sent by the
captain for the purpose of.^Ki)curing some hogs that had been
promised. ^;t[if

From Matavai Bay CooU directed his course for the island
of Huaheine, where he intended to touch. This island he
reached the next day, and, early in the morning of the 3d of
September, made sail for the harbor of Owharre, in which he
soon came to an anchor. The Adventure, not happening to
turn into the harbor with equal facility, got ashore on the
north side of the channel, but by the timely assistance which
had previously been provided in case such an accident should
occur, she was gotten off again without receiving any damage.
As soon as both the ships were in safety. Captain Cook, to-
gether with Captain Furneaux. landed upon the island, and
was received by the natives with the utmost cordiality.

Early on the 7th of September, while the ships were un-
mooring, the captain went to pay his farewell visit to Oree,
and took with him such presents as had not only a fancied
value but a real utility. He left, also, with the chief the in-
scription plate that had before been in his possession, and
another small copper plate on which were engraved these
words : "Anchored here, his Britannic Majesty's ships Resolu-
tion and Adventure, September, 1773." These plates, to-
gether with some medals, were put up in a bag, of which
Oree promised to take care, and to produce them to the first

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

1 ^m '

l§

'' I

M5:

ship or chips that should arrive at the island. Having, in re-
turn, given a hog to Captain Cook, and loaded his boat with
fruit, they took leave of each other, when the good old chief
embraced the commander with tears in his eyes.

During the short stay of the vessels at Huaheine, they
were very successful in obtaining supplies of provisions. No
less than three hundred hogs, besides fowls and fruit, were
procured ; and had the ships continued longer at the place
the quantity might have been greatly increased. Such was
the fertility of this small island that none of these articles of
refreshment were seemingly diminished, but appeared to be
as plentiful as ever.

From Huaheine they sailed for Ulietea, where trade v/as
carried on in the usual manner and a most friendly inter-
course renewed. Here Tupia was inquired after with partic-
ular eagerness, and the inquirers were perfectly satisfied with
the account which was given of the occasions of that Indian's
decease.

They were as successful in procuring provisions at Ulietea
as they had been at Huaheine. A.larger quantity was offered
than the ships could contain, so that the ships were enabled
to proceed on their voyage with no small degree of comfort
and advantage.

Cook, by his second visit to the Society Islands, gained a
further knowledge of their general state and of the customs
of the inhabitants. It appeared that a Spanish ship had been
lately at Otaheite, and the natives complained that a disease
had been communicated to them by the people of this vessel,
which, according to their account, affected the head, the throat,
and the stomach, and at length ended in death.

On the 7th of Octoher they proceeded on their voyage.
The intention was to sail directly to Queen Charlotte's Sound
in New Zealand for the purpose of taking in wood and water,
after which they were to pursue their discoveries to the south
and the east.

It was the 3d of November before Captain Cook brought
the Resolution into Ship Cove, in Queen Charlotte's Sound.
He had been beating about the island from the 21st of Oc-
tober, during which time his vessel was exposed to a variety of
tempestuous weather. In one instance he had been driven
off the land by a furious storm, which lasted two days, and
which would have been dangerous in the highest degree had

SM'^<

■I 1

CAPTAIN COOKS VOYAGES.

[aving, in re-
lis boat with
)od old chief

laheine, they
)visions. No
id fruit, were
at the place
d. Such was
se articles of
tpeared to be

-re trade was
friendly inter-
er with partic-
y satisfied with
,f that Indian's

ions at Ulietea

tity was offered

5 were enabled

ree of comfort

lands, gained a

I of the customs

ship had been

that a disease

. of this vessel,

lead, the throat,

their voyage,
[arlotte's Sound
mod and water,
[es to the south

Cook brought

irlotte's Sound.

the 2 1st of Go-
to a variety of

id been driven
two days, and

[est degree had

it not fortunately happened that it was fair overhead, and that
there was no reason to be apprehensive of a lee-shore. In
the course of the bad weather which succeeded this storm
the Adventure was separated from the Resolution, and was
never seen or heard of through the remainder of the voyage.

During the stay in Queen Charlotte's Sound they were
plentifully supplied with fish, procured from the natives at a
very easy rate ; and, besides the vegetables afforded by their
own gardens, they everywhere found plenty of scurvy-grass
and celery. . These Captain Cook ordered to be dressed
every day for all his hands. By the attention which he paid
to his men in the article of provisions they had for three
months lived principally on a fresh diet, and. at this time,
there was not a sick or scorbutic person op board.

The morning before the captain sailed he wrote a memo-
randum containing such information as he thought necessary
for Captain Furneaux in case he should put into the sound.
This memorandum was buried in a botde under the root of a
tree in the garden, and in such a manner that it could not
avoid being discovered if either Captain Furneaux or any
other European should chance to arrive at the Cove.

On the 26th of November they sailed from New Zealand
in search of a continent, and steered to the south, inclining to
the east. Some days after this they reckoned themselves to
be antipodes to their friends in London, and consequently
were at as great a distance from them as possible. The first
ice was seen on the 12th of December, farther south tlian the
first ice which had been met with after leaving the Cape of
Good Hope In the preceding year. In the progress of the
voyage Ice-islands continually occurred, and the navigation
became more and more difficult and dangerous. When they
were In the latitude of 67° 5' south, they all at once got within
such a cluster of these islands, together with a large quantity
of loose pieces, that to keep clear of them was a matter of
the utmost difficulty. On the 2 2d of the month the Resolu-
tion was in the highest latitude she had yet reached, 67° 31',
and circumstances now became so unfavorable that they
thought of returning more to the north.

By the 30th of the month, through obstructions and diffi-
culties which, from their similar nature to those already men-
tioned, it would be tedious to repeat, Captain Cook reached
to the seventy-first degree of latitude.

jlii

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

ihi

|i' ■ I

I •

In pursuing his course to the north he became well assured
that the discovery of Juan Fernandez, if any such was ever
made, could be nothing more than a small island. At this
time the captain was attacked by a bilious colic, the violence
of which confined him to his bed.

On the 6th and 7th of April they came within sij^ht of four
islands, which they knew to be the Marquesas. To one of
them, which was a new discovery, Cook gave the name of
Hood's Island, after one of the crew by whom it was first
seen. As soon as the ship was brought to an anchor in
Madre de Dios, or Resolution Bay, in the island of St.
Christina, a traffic commenced. Too many of the Indians
having come on board. Cook, who was going in a boat to find
a convenient place for mooring the ship, said to the officers:
"You must look well after these people or they will certainly
carry off something or other." Scarcely had he gotten into
the boat when he was informed that they had stolen an iron
stancliion from the opposite gangway, and were carrying it
off. Upon this he ordered his men to fire over the canoe till
he could get round in the boat, but not to kill any one.
Such, however, was the noise made by the natives that the
order was not heard, and the unhappy thief was killed at the
first shot. All the Indians retired with precipitation in conse-
quence of this unfortunate accident.

From the Marquesas Captain Cook steered for Otahelte
with a view of falling in with some of the islands discovered
by former navigators, and especially by the Dutch, the situa-
tion of which had not been accurately determined. In the
course of the voyage he passed a number of low islets, con-
nected together by reefs of coral rocks. One of the islands,
on which Lieutenant Cooper went ashore, with two boats
well armed, was called by the natives Tiookea. On the 2 2d
of April they reached the Island of Otaheite and anchored in
Matavai Bay. Cook's chief reason for putting in at this place
was to give Wales an opportunity of ascertaining the error
of the watch by the known longitude, and to determine anew
her rate of going; the first object was to land the instruments,
and to erect tents for the reception of a guard, and such other
people as it was necessary to have on shore. Sick there were
none, for the refreshments which had been obtained at the
Marquesas had removed every complaint of that kind.

During the stay at Otaheite they maintained a most friendly

CAPTAIN COOKS VOYAGES.

veil assured
:h was ever ^
id. At this
the violence

sight of four
To one of
the name of
1 it was first
m anchor in
sland of St.
■ the Indians
a boat to find
► the officers :
will certainly
e gotten into
itolen an iron
;re carrying it
: the canoe till
kill any one.
itives that the
Ls killed at the
ation in conse-

connection with the inhabitants, and a continual interchange
of visits was preserved between him and Otoo, Towha, and
other chiefs of the country. His traffic with them was gready
facilitated by his having fortunately brought with him some
red parrot feathers from the Island of Amsterdam.

On the 15th of May, 1774, he ai jliored in O'Wharre Har-
bor, in the island of Huaheine, and was immediately visited by
his friend Oree ; the same agreeable intercourse subsisted be-
tween the captain and this good old chief which had formerly
taken place. Red feathers were not here in such estimation
as they had been at Otaheite ; the natives of Huaheine hav-
ing the good sense to give a preference to the more useful
articles of nails and axes.

At Ulietea, to which the captain next directed his course,
the events that occurred were nearly similar to those which
have already been related.

On the 6th of June, 1774, the day after they left Ulietea,
they saw land, which they found to be a low reef island about
four leagues in compass and of a circular form. This was
Howe Island, which had been discovered by Captain Wallis.
Nothing remarkable occurred from this day to the i6th, when
land was again seen. It was another reef island ; and being
a new discovery Captain Cook gave it the name of ^almer-
ston Island, in honor of Lord Palmerston.

In pursuing his course to the west-southwest Cook passed
by a number of small islands, and, on the 26th, anchored on
the north side of Anamocka, or Rotterdam. A traffic im-
mediately commenced with the natives, who brought what
provisions they had, being chiefly yams and shaddocks, which
they exchanged for nails, beads and other small articles.
Here, as in many former cases, the captain was put to some
trouble on account of the thievish disposition of the inhabi-
tants.

While the captain was on shore at Anamocka he got the
names of twenty islands, which lie between the northwest and
the northeast. Some of them were in sight ; and two of
them, which are most to the west, are remarkable on account
of their great height.

Anamocka was first discovered by Tasman, and by him was
named Rotterdam. It is of a triangular form, and each side
extends about three and a half or four miles. From the
northwest to the south of the island, round by the east and

i' I

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

■M

!» i

.1 vf

fi 1

north, it is encompassed by a number of small isles, sand-
banks and breakers. An end could not be seen to their ex-
tent to the north, and they may possibly reach as far to the
south as Amsterdam, or Tongataboo. Together with Mid-
dleburg, or Eaoowe, and Pilstart these form a group contain-
ing about three degrees of latitude and two of longitude. To
this group Captain Cook had given the name of the Friendly
Isles, or '^.rchipelago, from the firm alliance and friendship
which seemed to subsist among their inhabitants, and from
their courteous behavior to strangers.

Pursuing their course to the west they discovered land on
the 1st of July ; and, upon a nearer approach, found it to be
a small island, to which, on account of the number of turde
that were seen upon the coast. Captain Cook gave the name
of Turtle Isle. On the i6th high land was seen bearing
southwest, which no one doubted to be the Tierra Austral
del Espiritu Santo of Quiros, and which is called by de
Bougainville the Great Cyclades. After exploi ing the coast
for some days the captain came to an anchor in a harbor in
the island of Mallicollo.

To the harbor, in which the commander anchored while he
lay at Mallicollo, he gave the name of Port Sandwich. It
has many advantages, with regard to depth of water, shelter
from the winds, and lying so near the shore as to be a cover
to those of a ship's company who may be carrying on any
necessary operations at land.

Soon after they had gotten to sea, which was on the 23d
of July, they discovered three or four small islands that be-
fore had appeared to be connected. At this time the Resolu-
tion was not far from the Isle of Ambrym, the Isle of Paoom
and the Isle of Apee. On the next morning several more
islands were discovered, lying off the southeast point of Apee,
and constituting a group which Captain Cook called Shep-
herd's Isles.

Amidst the number of islands that were continually seen
there was only one on which no inhabitants were discerned.
This consisted chiefly of a remarkable peaked rock, which was
only accessible to birds, and which obtained the name of the
Monument.

In the farther course of the ship to the southward they
drew near to certain lands, which they found to consist of
one large island, the southern and western extremities of

CAFrAIN COOKS VOYAGES.

II isles, sand-
n to their ex-
as far to the
er with Mid-
roup contain-
ongitude. '1 o
f the Friendly
ind friendship
ants, and from

)vered land on
found it to be
niber of turtle
rave the name
r seen bearing
Tierra Austral
, called by de
ioiing the coast
X in a harbor in

chored while he
t Sandwich. It
)f water, shelter
,s to be a cover
larrying on any

was on the 23CI
] islands that be-
ime the Resolu-
le Isle of Paoom
ig several more
pt point of Apee,
[ok called Shep-

continually seen
Iwere discerned.
rock, which was
[the name of the

southward they

id to consist of

extremities of

which extended beyond their sight. Three or four smaller
ones lay off its north side. To the two principal of these
Captain Cook gave the name of Montagu and Hinchinbrook;
and the large island he named Sandwich, in honor of his noble
patron tlie Karl of Sandwich. This island, which was spotted
with woods and lawns, agreeably diversifif^d over the whole
surface, and which had a gentle slope from the hills down to
the sea-coast, exhibited a most beautiful and delightful pros-
pect. The examination of it was not, however, so much an
object as to proceed to the south, in order to find the south-
ern extremity of the Archipelago.

Pursuing his discoveries Captain Cook came in sight of an
island, which was afterwards known to be called by the natives
Erromango. On account of the treacherous behavior of the
inhabitants of Erromango Captain Cook called a promontory,
or peninsula, Traitor's Head.

From this place he sailed for an island which had been Ms-
covered before at a distance, and at which, on account of is
wanting a large quantity of wood and water, he was resolved
to make some stay.

The island where they now stayed was found, upon inquiry,
to be called, by the inhabitants, Tanna ; and three others in
its neighborhood were distinguished by the names of Immer,
Erronan, or Footoona and Annatom.

In the island of Tanna was a volcano, which sometimes
made a dreadful noise, and, at each explosion, which hap-
pened every three or four minutes, threw up fire and smpke
in prodigious columns. At one time great stones were seen
high in the air. At the foot of the hill were several hot
springs ; and on the side of it Mr. Forster found some places
whence smoke of a sulphureous smell issued, through cracks
or fissures of the earth. A thermometer, that was placed in
a little hole made in one of them, and which in the open air
stood only at eighty, rose to a hundred and seventy. In
another instance the mercury rose to a hundred and ninety-
one. The commander being desirous of getting a near and
good view of the volcano set out with a party for that pur-
pose. But the men met with so many obstructions from the
inhabitants, who were jealous of their penetrating far into the
country, that they thought proper to return. For this jeal-
ousy of the islanders Captain Cook, in his narrative, has made
a very judicious and candid apology.

'I' I

r M

>■ >i

!■'!:

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

On the 20th of August Captain Cook sailed from Tanna,
and employed all the remainder of the month in a further ex-
amination of the islands around him. He had now finished
his survey of the whole Archipelago and had gained a knowl-
edge of it infinitely superior to what had ever been attained
before. The northern islands of this Archipelago were first
discovered in 1606 by that eminent navigator Quiros, wlio
considered them as part of the southern continent, which at
that time and until very lately was supposed to exist. M. dc
Bougainville was the next person by whom they were visited,
in 1768. This gentleman, however, besides landing in the
Isle of Lepers, only made the discovery that the country was
not connected, but composed of islands, which he called the
Great Cyclades. Captain Cook, b.esides ascertaining the
situation and extent of these islands, added to them several
new ones which had hitherto been unknown and explored the
whole. He thoucrht that he had obtained a rio^ht to name
them ; accordingly he bestowed upon them the appellation of
the New Hebrides. His title to this honor will not be dis-
puted in any part of Europe, and certainly not by so en-
lightened and liberal a people as the French nation.

The season of the year now rendered it necessary for the
commander to return to the south, while he had yet some time
10 explore any land he might meet with between the New
Hebrides and New Zealand, at which last place he intended
to touch that he might refresn his people and renew his stock
of wood and water for another southern course. With this
view he sailed on the ist of September, and on the 4th land
was discovered, in a harbor belonging to which the Resolution
came to an anchor the next day.

Cook went on shore at this place. He ordered an inscrip-
tion to be cut on a large tree, setting forth the name of the
ship, the date of the year and other circumstances, which
testified that the Ens^lish were the first discoverers of the

country. This he had done before wherever such a ceremony
seemed necessary. How the island was called by the natives
he could never learn ; therefore it was given the name of
New Caledonia.

As the Resolution pursued her course from New Caledonia
land was discovered, which on a nearer approach was found
to be an island of good height and five leagues in circuit.
Captain Cook named it Norfolk Isle. .

CAPTAIN COOKS VOYAGES.

from Tanna,
a further ex-
now finished
ned a knovvl-
)een attained
gro were first
"Quiros, who
lent, which at
exist. M. de
yr were visited,
anding in the
e country was
he called the
certaining the
them several
d explored the
right to name
appellation of
ill not be dis-
not by so en-
lation.

cessary for the
d yet some time
Cveen the New
Ice he intended
renew his stock
•se, With this
n the 4th land
the Resolution

-red an inscrip-
le name of the
listances, which
coverers of the
luch a ceremony
by the natives
[n the name of

I New Caledonia
jach was found
[gues in circuit.

From Norfolk Isle they steered for New Zealand, it being
his intention to touch at Queen Charlotte's Sound that he
might refresh his crew and put the ship in a condition to en-
counter the southern latitudes. On the i8th of October he
anchored before Ship Cove in that sound, and the first thing
he did after landing was to look for the bottle he had left on
shore, in which was a memorandum. It was taken away, and
it soon appeared from indubitable circumstances that the Ad-
venture had been in the cove after it was quitted by the
Resolution.

Upon visiting the gardens which had been formed at
Motuara they were found alrhost in a state of nature, having
been wholly neglected by the inhabitants. Many, however,
of the articles were in a flourishing condition, and showed
how well they liked the soil in which they were planted. It
was several days before any of the natives made their ap-
pearance, but when they did so and recognized Captain Cook
and his friends, joy succeeded fear. The captain's whole in-
tercourse with the New Zealanders during this his third visit
to Queen Charlotte's Sound was peaceable and friendly, and
one of them, a man apparently of consequence, whose name
was Pedero, presented him with a staff of honor, such as the
chiefs generally carry. In return he dressed Pedero, who had
a fine person and a good presence, in a suit of old clothes,
of which he was proud.

SHJ

y>:i '*

i '<-\

1 ,

i I

CHAPTKR V.

CAPTAIN cook's VOYAGES — (Coflflfmea).

Captain Cook's Departure from New Zealand — Terra tiel P'ucko — Possession Bay — Isle of
(leorgia — Returning to England — Appointed a Capt )in in Grcenwicli Hospital — A>i Ex.
|>e<litiun to find a Nortliwestern Passage — Captain Cook in Command — Cnptiiin Cook
sails on the 9th of July, 1776 — Tcnerifle — Crossing the Equator — Arrival at Ca|ie of
Good Hope — Prince Edward's Island — Kerguelen and Van Diemen's Land — Again at
Queen Charlotte's Sound — Ten Men eaten up by the New Ztalanders — Otahrite — f )mai
returned to his Native Isle — The Co:\st of New All ion — Prince William's Island —
Oonalaska — The Land of the Tschuktchi — Return to Oonalaska — Meeting Russian
Seamen — Return to the Sandwich Isbnds — Owhyhee — Krakatoa Bay — The Death of
Captain Cook as related hy an Eye-wiintss— MunUred I>y tlie Savages — His Body
terribly mutilated — An interesting Document from the hands of Dr. Benjamin Franklin
— Captain Clerke, the Successor of Captain Cook, visits Kamschatka — He returns South-
ward and dies — Captain Gore succeeds in conunand.

On the loth of November, 1774. Captain Cook took his
departure from New Zealand in further pursuit of his great
object, the determination of the question concerning the ex-
istence of a southern continent. Having sailed till the 27th
in different degrees of latitude, extending from 43° to 55° 48',
S., he gave up all hopes of finding any more land in this
ocean. He came, therefore, to the resolution of steering di-
rectly for the west entrance of the Straits of Magalhaens,
with a view of coasting the south side of Terra del Fuego,
round Cape Horn to the Strait Le Maire.

In the prosecution of his voyage he on the 17th of Decem-
ber reached the west coast of Terra del Fuego ; and, having
continued to range it till the 20th, he came to an anchor in a
place which he afterwards named Christmas Sound.

The inhabitants of Terre del Fuego Captain Cook found
to be of the same nation that he had formerly seen in Success
Bay. They wer;^ a little, ugly, half-starved, beardless race,
and almost naked. It was their own fault that they were not
better clothed, nature having furnished them with ample
materials for that purpose. By lining their sealskin cloaks
with the skins and feathers of aquatic birds, by making the
cloaks themselves larger, and by applying the same materials

(80)

CArrAIN COOKS VOYAGES.

ision Bay— Isle of
Hospital— A. 1 Ex-
^n^\ — Ciiptain Cook
,vrival at Cape of
s Land— Again at
s_Ot;ihritc— Omai
William's Islaml—
—Meeting Uussian
ay— The Death of
savages— Mis Body
Benjamin Franklin
—He returns South'

to different parts of clothing they could render their dress
much more warm and comfortable.

On the 28th of December Cook sailed from Christmas
Sound, and proceeded on his voyage round Cape Horn,
through Strait le Maire to Staten Island. This famous cape
was passed by him on the next day, when he entered the
Southern Atlantic Ocean.

In ranging Staten Island a good port was found situated
three leagues to the westward of St. John and in a northern
direcdon. Upon account of the day on which the discovery
of this port was made, being the ist of January, 1775, Cap-
tain Cook gave it the name of New Year's Harbor.

From Staten Island he sailed, on the 4th of January, with
a view of discovering that extensive coast laid down by Dal-
rymple in his chart, in which is the gulf of St. Sebastian.

Proceeding in his voyage, land was seen on the 14th, which
was at first mistaken for an island of ice. It was in a manner
wholly covered with snow. From the person by whom it was
first discovered it obtained the name of Willis's Island. An-
other island, of a larger compass, on account of the vast num-
ber of birds which were upon it, was called Bird Isle. A«
more extensive range of country had been seen for some
time, which was reached on the i 7th, and where he landed, on
the same day, in three different places. The head of the bay
in which he came to shore was terminated by pardcular ice-
cliffs of considerable height. Pieces were continually break-
ing off and floating out to sea ; and while they were in the
bay a great fall happened, which made a noise like a cannon.
No less savage and horrible was the interior of the country.

When Cook landed in the bay he displayed the English
colors ; and, under a discharge of small arms, took possession
of the country. In his rf^turn to the ship Captain Cook
brought with him a quantity of seals and penguins, which
were an acceptable present to the crew ; not from the want
of provisions, which were plentiful in every kind, but from a
change of diet. Any sort of fresh meat was preferred by
most on board to salt. The captain himself was now, for the
first time, tired of the salted meats of the ship. To the bay
in which he had been he gave the name of Possession Bay.

The land in which this bay lies was at first judged to be
part of a great continent. But, upon coasting round the
whole country, it was proved to a demonstration that it was

•1||:

'lib

f !

II'

--' ^t-

ANTARCTIC FXPLORATIONS.

■: U

only an islanci. In honor of his Majesty Captain Cook called
it the Isle of (icori^ia.

The captain, on the 25th of January, st(;ered from the Isle
of (ieorj^ia, aiui, on the 27th, computed that he was in latitude
sixty, south. I'artiier than this he did not intend to jjo, un-
less some sijrns of meetinjj^ with land should be discovered.
There was now a lon<^ iiollow swell from the w(!st, which was
a stronj; indication that no land was to be met with in that
direction. On an elevated coast, which appeared in sioht
upon the 31st of January, Captain Cook bestowed the appella-
tion of the South(?rn Ihule. The reason of his jjiving it this
name was, that it is the most southern land that had ever yet
been discovered. It is everywhere covered with snow, ami
displays a surface of vast heij^ht. To the more distinguished
tracts of country which were discovered from the 31st of Jan-
uary to the 6th of February, Captain Cook gave the names
of Cape Bristol, Cape Montague, Saunders's Isle, Candlemas
Isles, and Sandwich's Land.

Nothing could exceed the inclination of Captain Cook, if it
had been pracdcable, to penetrate farther to the south. If he
had risked all that had been done during the voyage, for the
sake of discovering and exploring a coast, which, when dis-
covered and explored, would have answered no end what-
ever, or have been of the least use either to navigation or
geography, he would justly have been charged with inexcusa-
ble temerity. He determinec, therefore, to alter his course
to the east, and to sail in quest of Bouvet's Land, the c x-
istence of which was yet to be setded. Accordingly, this was
the principal object of his pursuit, from the 6th to the 22d of
the month. By that day he had run down thirteen degrees
of longitude, in the very latitude assigned for Bouvet's Land.
No such land was discovered ; nor did any proofs occur of
the existence of Cape Circumcision.

Captain Cook had now made the circuit of the southern
ocean in a high latitude, and traversed it in such a manner as
to leave not the least room for the possibility of there beinjj
a continent, unless near the pole, and out of the reach of
navigation. By twice visiting the tropical sea, he had not
only settled the situation of some old discoveries, but made
many new ones ; and, indeed, had left little more to be accom-
plished. The intention of the voyage had been fully answered
and the southern hemisphere sufficiently explored. A final

',' \.l

IJ.

CAPTAIN COOKS VOYACKS.

Cook called

•om the Isle
,s in latitiuU-
d to go, un-
! discovrrt'd.
it, which was

with in that
red in si*;la
I the appella-

^ivini:; it this

had ever yil
ith snow, ami

distinguished
c; 31st of Jan-
ve the names
le, Candlemas

ain Cook, if it
■i south. If he
voyage, for the
lich, when dis-
no end what-
navigation or
with inexcusa-
ter his course
Land, the ex-
dingly, this was
fi to the 2 2d of
.irteen degrees
Bouvet's Land,
roofs occur of

If the southern
Ich a manner as
lof there beinj:
If the reach of
fca, he had not
leries, but made

re to be acconv
fully answered

tlored. A final

rnd was hereby put to the searching after a southern conti-
nent, which, for nearly two centuries past, had occasionally
engrossed the attention of some of the maritime povve-rs, and
JKul been urged with great ardor by philosophers and
geograi^lKTs in different ages.

The great purpose of his navigation round the globe b(?ing
thus completeil, the captain began to direct his vi(;vvs towards
Lngland. Ili: had, indinnl, some thoughts of protracting his
course a little long('r, for th(* sake of revisiting tlu; place
where the FnMich discovery is said to be situatcrd. But, upon
mature d(,'lil)eration, he determineHl to lay aside his intcMition.
Ih; considered that, if this discov(Ty had n^ally been made,
tlie end would be as fully answered as if it had been done by
himself. It could only be an island ; and if a judgment might
he formed from the degree of cold which they had expiTi-
enced in that latitude, it could not be a fertile one. Besides,
he would have been kept two months longer at sea, and that
in a tempestuous latitude, with which the ship was not in a
condition to struggle. I ier sails and rigging were so much
worn that something was giving way every hour; arnl there
was nothing left, either to repair or to replace them. The
provisions of the vessel were in such a state of decay that
they afforded little nourishment, and the company had been
long without refreshments. Indeed, the crew were yet
healthy, and would cheerfully have gone wherever the cap-
tain judged It proper to lead them ; but he was fearfid lest the
scurvy should lay hold of them at a time when none of the
remedies were left by which it could be removed. He
thought that It would have been cruel In him to have con-
tinued the fatigues and hardships they were perpetually ex-
posed to longer than was absolutely necessary.

From all these considerations, which were evidently the
dictates of wisdom and humanity. Captain Cook was induced
to spend no longer time in searching for the French discov-
eries, and to steer for the Cape of Good Hope.

As the Resolution approached towards the Cape of Good
Hope, she fell in first with a Dutch East Indiaman from Ben-
gal, commanded by Captain Bosch, and next with an English
Indiaman, being the True Briton, from China, of which Cap-
tain Broadly was the commander. Captain Bosch very
obligingly offered sugar, arrack, and whatever he had to
spare ; and Captain Broadly sent them fresh provisions, tea,

ill

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'0 il

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ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

and various articles which could not fail of being peculiarly
acceptable to people in their situation. Even a parcel of old
newspapers furnished no slight gratification to persons who
had so long been deprived of obtaining any intelligence con-
cerning their country and the state of Europe. Frofn these
vessels Captain Cook received some information with regard
to what had happened to the Adventure after her separation
from the Resolution.

On the 22d of March, 1775, he anchored in Table Bay.
where he found several Dutch ships, some French, and the
Ceres, an English East indiaman, bound directly for England,
under the command of Captain Newte, by whom he sent a
copy of the preceding part of his journal, some charts, and
other drawings, to the Admiralty.

During the circumnavigation of the globe, from the period
of our commander's leaving the Cape of Good Hope to his
return to it again, he had sailed no less than twenty thousand
leagues. This was an extent of voyage nearly equal to three
times the equatorial circumference of the earth, and which
had never been accomplished before, by any ship, in the same
compass of duration. In such a case it could not be a matter
of surprise that the rigging and sails of the Resolution should
be essentially damaged, aiid even worn out.

The repairs of the ship having been completed, and the
necessary stores gotten on board, together with a fresh sup-
ply of provisions and water, he left the Cape of Good Hope
on the 27th of April, and reached the island of St. Helena on
the 15th of May. Here he stayed till the 21st, when he
sailed for the island of Ascension, where he anchoi^d on the
28th. From this place he directed his course, on the 31st,
for the island of Fernando de Noronha, at which he arrived
on the 9th of June.

On the 14th of July the captain came to an anchor in the
Bay of Fayal, one of the Azores Islands. On the 30th of the
same month he anchored at Spithead, and landed at Ports-
mouth, having been absent from Great Britain three years
and eighteen days, in which time, and under all changes of
climate, he had lost but four men, and only one of them by
sickness.

In acknowledoment of his services our navigator, on the
9th of August, was promoted to the rank of Post Captam,
«Mid three days afterwards a Captain in Greenwich Hospital,

CAPTAIN COOK S VOYAGES.

•se, on the 31st
hlch he arrivtcl

a situation which was intended to afford him a pleasing and
honorable reward for his illustrious labors and services.

It had lonj^ been a favorite object with navigators to dis-
cover a shorter, a more commodious, and a mo'-e profitable
course ©f sailing to Japan and China, and, indeed, to the East
Indies in general, than by making the tedious circuit of the
Cape of Good Mope. To find a western passage round
North America had been attempted by several bold adven-
turers, from Frobisher's first voyage, in 1576, to those of
(ames and of Fox, in 1631. By these expeditions a large
addition was made to the knowledge of the northern extent
of America, and Hudson's and Baffin's Bays were discovered.
But the wished-for passage, on that side, into the Pacific
Ocean, was still unattained. Nor were the various attempts
of our countrymen and of the Dutch to find such a passage,
by sailing around the north of A.-)a in an eastern direction,
attended with better success. Wood's failure, in 1676,
appears to have concluded the long list of unfortunate ex-
peditions in that century. The discovery, if not absolutely
despaired of, had been unsuccessful in such a number of in-
stances, that it ceased, for many years, to be an object of
pursuit.

The question was again revived in the eighteenth century,
and Captains Middleton, Smith and Moore were sent out by
the government in 1741 and 1746. But, though an act of
parliament had been passed, which secured a reward of
twenty thousand pounds to the discoverer of a passage, the
accomplishment of this object continued at as great a distance
as ever.

For the conduct of an enterprise, the operations of which
were intended to be so new, so extensive and so various, it
was evident that great ability, i.kill and experience were in-
dispensably necessary. That Captain Cook was of all men
the best qualified for carrying it into execution was a matter
that could not be called in question. But, however ardently
it might be wished that he would take upon him the com-
mand of the service, no one presumed to solicit him upon the
subject. The benefits he had already conferred on science
and navigation, and the labors and dangers he had gone
through, were so many and great that it was not deemed
reasonable to ask him to engage in fresh perils. At the
same time nothing could be more natural than to consult him

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ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

upon everything relative to the business ; and his advice was
particularly requested with regard to the most proper person
for conducting the voyaj^-e. To determine this point the
Captain, Sir Hugh Palliser and Mr. Stephens were invited to
Lord Sandwich's to dinner. Captain Cook was so fired with
the contemplation and representation of the object that he
started up, and declared that he himself would undertake the
direction of the enterprise. It is easy to suppose with what
pleasure the men received a proposal which was so agree-
able to their secret wishes, and which they thought of the
highest importance towards attaining the ends of the voyage.
No time was lost by the Earl of Sandwich in laying the
matter before the king ; and Captain Cook was appointed
to the command of the expedition on the loth of February,
1776.

The command and the direction of the enterprise being
thus happily settled, it became an object of great importance
to determine what might be the best course that could h.-.
given to the voyage. All former navigators round the globe
had returned to Europe by the Cape of Good Hope. But to
Captain Cook the arduous task was now assigned of attempt-
ing it by reaching the high northern latitudes between Asia
and America. The usual plan, therefore, of discovery was
reversed ; so that instead of a passage from the Atlantic to
the Pacific, one from the latter into the former was to be
tried.

That everything might be done which could facilitate the
success of the grand expedition, Lieutenant Pickersgill was
sent out, in 1776, with directions to explore the coasts of
Baffin's Bay; and, in the next year, Lieutenant Young was
commissioned not only to examine the western parts of that
bay, but to endeavor to find a passage, on that side, from tiie
Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean. Nothing was performed by
either of these gentlemen that promoted the purposes ol
Captain Cook's voyage.

Two vessels were fixed upon by government for the in-
tended service; the Resolution and the Discovery. The
command of the former was given to Captain Cook, and ot
the other to Captain Clerke. To th** Resolution was assigned
the same complement of officers and men which she had dur-
ing her preceding voyage ; and the only difference in the
establishment of the Discovery from that of the Adventure

CAPTAIN COOKS VOYAGFS.

is advice was
)roper person
his point the
ere invited to
; SO fired with
)bject that he
undertake the
)Ose with what
ivas so agree-
hought of the
of the voyaoe.
in layin^r iiw
was appointed
h of February.

iterprise being
eat importance
; that could b.'
•ound the globe
Hope. But to
ned of attempt-
is between Asia
discove.ry was
the Atlantic 10
mer was to be

Id facilitate the

Pickersgill was

e the coasts ot

mt Young was

rn parts of that

It side, from the

s performed by

le purposes ol

nent for the in-
)iscovery. The
.in Cook, and ot
ion was assigned
ich she had dur-
ifference in die
the Adventure

was in the single instance of her having nc marine officer on
board.

From the time of the two ships being put into commission
the greatest degree of attention and zeal was exerted by the
Earl of Sandwich to have them equipped in the most com-
plete manner. Both the vessels were supplied with as much
of every necessary article as could conveniently be stowed,
and with the best of each kind that could be procured.

Every preparation for the voyage being completed Captain
Cook received an order to proceed to Plymouth, and to take
the Discovery under his command. Having, accordingly,
given the proper directions to Captain Clerke he sailed from
the Nore to th> Downs on the 25th of June, 1 776. On the 30th
of the same month he anchored in Plymouth Sound, where
the Discovery had already arrived. It was the 8th of July'
before he received his instructions for the voyage ; and, at
the same time, he was ordered to proceed, with the Resolu-
tion, to the Cape of Good Hope. Captarin Clerke, who was
detained in London by some unavoidable circumstances, was
to follow as soon as he should join his ship.

In the evening of the 12th Captain Cook stood out of Fly-
mouth Sound, and pursued his course down the channel.

It being found that there was not hay and corn sufficient
for the subsistence of the stock of animals on board, till
the arrival of the ships at the Cape of Good Hope, Captain
Cook determined to touch at Teneriffe. This island he
thought bettrr adapted to the purpose of procuring these
articles and other refreshments than Madeira. On the ist
of August he anchorea .1 the road of Santa Cruz.

In the course of the voyage, between the latitudes of 12°
and 7° north, the weather was generally dark and gloomy.
The rains were frequent, and accompanied with that close
and sultry weather which too often brings on sickness, in this
passage. At such a time the worst consequences are to be
apprehended; and commanders of ships cannot be too much
upon their guard. It is necessary for them to purify the air
between decks with fire and smoke, and to oblige their people
to dry their clothes at every opportunity. The constant
observance of these precautions on board the Resolution was
attended with such success, that the captain had now fewer
sick men than on either of his former voyages. This was
the more remarkable, as, in consequence of the seams of the

,it'

1 "f :

it', + t» ,^4^. ■■#■■'■5

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

vessel having opened so wide as to admit the rain when it
fell, there was scarcely a man who could lie dry in his bed ;
and the officers in the gun-room were all driven out of their
cabins by the water that came through the sides. When set-
tled weather returned the caulkers were employed in repair-
ing these defects, by caulking the decks and inside weather-
works of the ship ; for the humanity of the captain would not
trust the workmen over the sides while the Resolution was at
sea.

On the 1st of September, 1776, they crossed the equator.
While, on the 8th, Captaiii Cook was near the eastern coast
of Brazil he was at considerable pains to settle its longitude,
which, till some better astronomical observations are made
on shore in that country, he concluded to be thirty-five de-
grees and a half, or thirty-six degrees west at most.

On the iSth ot October the Resolution came to an anchor
in Table Bay at the Cape of Good Hope ; and the usual com-
pliments having been paid to Baron Plettenberg, the Gov-
ernor, Captain Cook immediately applied himself to his cus-
tomary operations. Nothing remarkable occurred till the
evening of the 31st, when a tempest arose from the southeast,
which lasted three days, and which was so violent that tiie
Resolution was the only ship in the bay that rode out die
gale without dragging her anchors. The effects of the storm
were sensibly felt by the n-en on shore; for their tents and
observatory were torn to pieces, and - their astronomical
quadrant narrowly escaped irreparable damage. On the 3d
of November the tempest ceased, and the next day the Eng-
lish were enabled to resume their different employments.

It was not till the loth of the month that Captain Cook had
the satisfaction of seeing the Discovery arrive in the bay, and
effect her junction with the Resolution. She had sailed from
England on the ist of August, and would have reached the
Cape of Good Hope a week sooner if she had not been driven
from the coast by the late storm. Every assistance was im-
mediately given to put her into proper condition for proceed-
ing on her voyage.

Captain Cook having given a copy of his instructions to
Captain Gierke, and an order directing him how to proceed
in case of a separation, weighed from Table Bay on the 30th
of November, 1776, though it was not till the 3d of December
that he got clear of the land. As they pursued their course

CAFFAIN COOKS VOYAGES.

ain when it
in his bed ;
out of their
When set-
;d in repair-
de weather-
n would not
ution was at

the equator,
eastern coast
its longitude,
-IS are made
hirty-five de-

DSt.

to an anchor
ui usual com-
-rg, the Gov-
;lf to his cus-
Lirred till the
the southeast,
t»lent that the
rode out the
s of the storm
leir tents and
astronomical
. On the 3d
day the Eng-
|,loyments.
Aain Cook had
in the bay, and
lad sailed from
reached the
ot been driven
,tance was im-
n for proceed-

instructions to
low to proceed
ly on the 30th
of December
id their course

to the southeast, a very strong gale which they had from the
westward was followed by a mountainous sea, in consequence
of which the Resolution rolled and tumbled so much that the
cattle on board were preserved with the utmost difficulty.
Soon after, several of the goats, together with some sheep,
died, notwithstanding all the care to prevent it.

On the 1 2th land was seen, which upon a nearer approach
was found to consist of two islands. That which lies most to
the south, and is the largest, was judged by Captain Cook to
be about fifteen leagues in circuit. The northerly one is
about nine leagues in circuit, and the two islands are at the
distance of five leagues from each other. These two islands,
together with four others, which lie from nine to twelve de-
grees of longitude more to the east, and nearly in the same
latitude, had been discovered by Captains Marion Du Fresne
and Crozet, French navigators, in January, 1772, on their
passage in two ships from the Cape of Good Hope to the
Philippine Islands. As no names had been assigned to them
in a chart of the Southern Ocean, which Captain Crozet com-
municated to Captain Cook in 1775, Cook distinguished the
two larger ones by calling them Prince Edward's Islands, after
his majesty's fourth son. To the other four, with a view of
commemorating the discoverers, he gave the name of Marion's
and Crozet's Islands.

On the 24th, steering to the eastward, a. fog clearing up a
little, which had involved tliem for some time, and which had
rendered their navigation both tedious and dangerous, land
was seen, bearing south-southeast. Upon a nearer approach
it was found to be an island of considerable height, and about
three leagfues in circuit. Another island of the same maijni-
tude was soon after discovered, and in a short space a third,
besides some smaller ones.

The island last mentioned is a high, round rock, which was
named Bligh's Cap. Cook had received some very slight
information concerning it at Teneriffe, and his sagacity in
tracing it was such as immediately led him to determine that
it was the same that M. De Kerguelen had called the Isle of
Rendezvous. The weather beginning to clear up. Captain
Cook steered in for the land, of which a faint view had been
Obtained in the morning. This was Kerguelen's Land. No
sooner had they gotten off Cape Francois, than they observed
the copsi; to the southward to be much indented by projecting

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

I'tlu '

»»

points and bays, from which circumstance they were sure of
finding a good harbor. Accordingly such a harbor was
speedily discovered, in which the ships came to an anchor on
the 25th, being Christmas Day. Upon landing they found
the shore almost entirely covered with penguins and other
birds, and with seals. The latter, which were not numerous,
having been unaccustomed to visitors, were so insensible of
fear that as many as were wanted for the purpose of making
use of their fat or blubber, were killed without difficulty.
Fresh water was so plentiful that every gully afforded a large
stream, but not a single tree or shrub, or the least sign of it,
could be met with, and but very little herbage of any sort.
Before Captain Cook returned to his ship he ascended the
first ridge of rocks, that rose in a kind of amphitheatre above
one another, in hopes of obtaining a view of the country ; in
which, however, he was disappointed, for, previously to his
reaching the top, there came on so thick a fog that he could
scarcely find his way down again. In the evening the seine
was hauled at the head of the harbor, but only half a dozen
small fish were caucrht. As no better success attended a trial
which was made the next day with hook and line, the only
resource for fresh provision was in birds, the store of which
was inexhaustible.

Nothing very remarkable occurred till the 24th of January,
1 ']']'], when they (discovered the coast of Van Diemen's Land;
and, on the 26th, the ships came to an anchor in Adventure
Bay. Captain Cook, as soon as he had anchored, ordered
the boats to be hoisted out, in one of which he went himself,
to look for the most commodious place for obtaining the
necessary supplies. Wood and water were found in abun-
dance, and in places sufficiently convenient; but grass, which
was most wanted, was scarce, and, at the same time, very
coarse. Necessity, however, obliged them to take up with
such as could be procured.

On the 30th of January, 1777, Captain Cook sailed from
Adventure Bay, and on the 12th of February came to an
anchor at his old station of Queen Charlotte's Sound, in New
Zealand. Bein'; unwilling to lose any time, he commenced
his operations tiiat very afternoon. By his order several of
the empty water-casks were immediately landed, and a place
was begun to be cleared for setting up the two observatories,
and the erection of tents to accommodate a guard, and the

CAPTAIN COOKS VOYAGES.

;re sure of
larbor was
anchor on
they found
and other
t numerous,
isensible of

- of making
at difficulty,
rded a large
St sign of it,
of any sort.

iscended the
heatre above

- country ; in
/lously to his
:hat he could
ling the seine

half a dozen
ttended a trial

line, the only
store of which

th of January,
iemen's Land;

in Adventure
lored, ordered

went himself,
I obtaining the
found in abun-
ut grass, which
,me time, very
take up with

3k sailed from
ry came to an
Sound, in New
|he commenced
rder several of
ed, and a place
) observatories,
guard, and the

rest of the company whose business might require them to
remain on shore. They had not long been at anchor before
a number of canoes filled with natives came alongside of the
ships. However, very few of them would venture on board,
which appeared the more extraordinary as the captain was
well known to them all, and they could not be insensible how
liberally he had behaved to them on former occasions. There
was one man in particular whom he had treated with remark-
able kindness during the whole of his last stay in this place,
and yet neither professions of friendship nor presents could
prevail upon him to enter the Resolution.

There was a real cause for this shyness on the part of the
New Zealanders. A dreadful event had happened to some
of Captain Furneaux's crew while he lay in Queen Charlotte's
Sound, after he had finally separated from Captain Cook in
the former voyage. Ten men, who had been sent out in the
large cutter to gather wild greens for the ship's company,
were killed in a skirmish with the natives. What was the
cause of the quarrel could not be ascertained, as not one of
the company survived to relate the story. Lieutenant Burney,
who was ordered to go in search of them, found only some
fragments of their bodies, from which it appeared that they
had been converted into the food of the inhabitants. It was
the remembrance of this event and the fear of its being re-
venofed which now rendered the New Zealanders so fearful
of entering the vessels. From the conversation of Omai, who
was on board the Adventure when the melancholy affair hap-
pened, they knew that it could not be unknown to Captain
Cook. The captain, therefore, judged it necessary to use
every endeavor to assure them of the continuance of his
friendship, and that he should not disturb them on account
of the catastrophe. It was most probably in consequence of
this assurance that they soon laid aside all manner of restraint
and distrust.

While Cook, on the i6th, was making an excursion for the
purpose of collecting food for his catde, he embraced the op-
portunity to inquire, as accurately as possible, into the cir-
cumstances which had attended the melancholy fate of Cap-
tain Furneaux's men. Omai was his interpreter. The re-
sult of the inquiry was, that the quarrel first took its rise
from some thefts, in the commission of which the natives
were detected ; that there was no premeditated plan.

'■:|}

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

"I " i s

.i.}^

\ ! '

1 (

Mi.

i»i 4

\ 'i :'

At the request of Omai, Captain Cook consented to take
with him two youths from New Zealand. That they miglu
not quit their native country under any deluding ideas of
visiting it again, the captain took care to inform their parents
in the strongest terms that they would never return. This
declaration seemed, however, to make no kind of impression.
The father of the youngest lad resigned him with an indiffer-
ence which he would scarcely have shown at parting with his
dog, and even stripped the boy of the little clothing he pos-
sessed, delivering him qi'ite naked. This was not the case
with the mother of the other youth She took her leave of
him with all the marks of tender affection that mi^ht be ex-
pected between a parent and a child on. such an occasion ; but
she soon resumed her cheerfulness, and went away wholly
unconcerned.

On the 25th of February Captain Cook stood out of Queen
Charlotte's Sound, and by the 27th got clear of New Zealand.
No sooner had the ships lost sight of the land, than the two
young adventurers from that country, one of whom was
nearly eighteen years of age and the other about ten, began
deeply to repent of the step they had taken. It was the ex-
pt;rience of the sea-sickness which gave this turn to their
reflections, and all the soothing^ encouragement that could be
thought of was but of little avail. They wept, both in public
and in private, and made their lamentation in a kind of song,
that seemed to be expressive of the praises of their country
and people, from which they were to be separated forever.
In this disposition they continued for many days, but as their
sea-sickness wore off, and the tumult of their minds subsided,
the fits of lamentation became less and less frequent, and at
length entirely ceased. By degrees their native country and
their friends were forgotten, and they appeared to be as
firmly attached as if they had been born in the ship.

In the prosecution of the voyage Captain Cook met with
unfavorable winds, and it was not till the 29th of March that
land was discovered. It was found to be an inhabited island,
the name of which, as was learned from two of the natives
who came off in a canoe, is Mangeea. The commander ex-
amined the coast with his boats, and had a short intercourse
with some of the inhabitants. Not being able to find a
proper harbor for bringing the ships to an anchorage he "was
obliged to leave the country unvisited, though it seemed

CAPTAIN COOKS VOYAGES.

ed to take
they might
ir ideas of
leir parents
turn. This
impression,
an indiffer-
injr with his
ing he pos-
lot the case
\cr leave of
liaht be ex-
iccasion ; but
away wholly

out of Queen
view Zealand,
than the two
f whom was
Lit ten, began
t was the ex-
Iturn to their
that could be
)Oth in public,
kind of song,
their country
rated forever,
i, but as their
.nds subsided,
:quent, and at
e country and
Lred to be as

ship.

:ook met with
of March that
habited island,
of the natives
ommander ex-
,rt intercourse
ble to nnd a
:horage he was
igh it seemed

capable of supplying all the wants of the crew. The island
of Mangeea is full five leagues in circuit, and of a moderate
and pretty equal height. It has, upon the whole, a pleasing
aspect, and might be made a beautiful spot by cultivation.
The inhabitants, who appeared to be both numerous and well
fed, seemed to resemble those of Otaheite and the Marquesas
in the beauty of their persons ; and the resemblance, as far
as could be judged in so short a compass of time, takes place
with respect to their general disposition and character.

From the coast of Mangeea Cook sailed in the afternoon
of the 30th of March, and on the next day land was again
seen, within four leagues of which the ships arrived on the
ist of April. They could then pronounce it to be an island,
nearly of the same appearance and extent with that which
had lately been left. ♦

The island was called Wateeoo by the natives, and was a
beaudful spot, having a surface composed of hills and plains,
which were covered with a verdure rendered extremely pleas-
aYit by the diversity of its hues. Its inhabitants were very
numerous, and many of the young men were perfect models
in shape ; beside which they had complexions as delicate as
those of the women, and appeared to be equally amiable in
their dispositions. In their man"«ers, their general habits of
life, and their religious ceremonies and opinions, these
islanders had a near resemblance to the people of Otaheite
and its neighboring isles ; and their language was well under-
stood both by Omai and the two New Zealanders.

The next place visited by Captain Cook was a small island
called Wennooa-ette, or Otakoo-taia, to which Lieutenant
Gore was sent at the head of a party, who procured about a
hundred cocoanuts for each ship, and some grass, together
with a quantity of the leaves and branches of young trees
for the catde. Though, at this time, no inhabitants were
found in Wennooa-ette, yet, as there remained indubitable
marks of its being at least occasionally frequented, the Lieu-
tenant left a hatchet and several nails to the full value of what
had been taken away.

On the 5th of April the commander directed his course for
Harvey's Island, which was only at the distance of fifteen
leagues, and where he hoped to procure some refreshments.
This island had been discovered by him in 1773, during his
last voyage, when no traces were discerned of its having any

',m:

«4

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

'q it u 5i ;

inhabitants. It was now experienced to be well peopled, and
L_ a race of men who appeared to differ miichi both in person
and disposition, from the natives of Wateeoo.

In pursuing his course, agreeably to this resolution, he
reached Palmerston Island, and at a neighboring islet, both
of which were uninhabited, some little relief was obtained.
The boats soon procured a load of scurvy-grass and young
cocoanut trees. On the i6th Omai, being on shore, (aught,
with a scoop-net, in a very short time, as much fish as served
the whole party for dinner.

On the 28th of April Captain Cook touched at the island
of Komango, and on the ist of May he arrived at Anna-
mooka. The station he took was the very same which lie
had occupied when he visited the country three years before;
and it was probably almost in the same place where Tasman,
the first discoverer of this and some of the neicjhborinnr
islands, anchored in 1643. A friendly intercourse was im-
mediately opened with the natives, ind everything was set-
tled to the captain's satisfaction, i j received the greatest
civilities from Toobou, the chief of Annamooka, and Tai])a,
a chief from the island of Komango, attached himself to the
crew in so extraordinary manner that, in order to be near
them in the night, as well as in the day, he had a house
brought on men's shoulders a full quarter of a mile, and
placed close to the shed which was occupied by our party on
shore. On the 6th the commander was visited by a great
chief from Tongataboo, whose name was Feenou.

The stay which Captain Cook made at th<" Friendly Islands
was between two and three months, during which time, some
accidental differences excepted, there subsisted the utmost
cordiality.

On the 17th of July he took his final leave of the Friendly
Islands and resumed his voyage An eclipse was observed
in the night between the 20th and the 21st, and on the 8th of
August land was discovered. Some of the inhabitants, who
came off in canoes, seemed earnestly to invite them to go on
shore; but Crptain Cook did not think proper to run the
risk of losing ♦Iv:. advantage of a fair wind for the sake of
examining an island which appeared to be of little conse-
quence. Its name, as was learned from the natives who
spoke the Otaheite language, is Toobouai.

Pursuing his course the captain reached Otaheite on the

CAPTAIN COOK S VOYAGKS.

jopled, and
1 in person

olution, he
islet, both
s obtained,
and youn^
ore, caught,
h as served

the island
d at Anna-
le which lie
sars before ;
2re Tasman,
neicrhboriny^
rse was im-
ing was set-
the greatest
, and Taipa,
imself to the

to be near
lad a house

a mile, and
our party on
I by a great

ndly Islands

1 time, some

the utmost

the Frii-ndly

as observed

)n the 8th of

bitants, who

em to go on

r to run the

the sake of

litde conse-

natives who

heite on tlie

12th, and steered for Oheitepeha Bay with an intention to
anchor there in order to draw what refreshments he could
from the southeast part of the island before he went down to
Matavai. Omai's first reception amongst his countrymen was
not entirely of a flattering nature. Though several persons
came on board who knew him, and one of them was his
brother-in-law, there as nothing remarkably tender or strik-
ing in their meeting. An interview which Oinai had on the
13th with his sister was agreeable to the feelings of nature,
for their meeting was marked with expressions of tender af-
fection more easy to be conceived tiian described. In a visit,
likewise, which he received from an aunt, the old lady threw
herself at his feet, and plentifully bedewed them with tears
of joy.

Captain Cook was informed by the natives that since he
was at the island in 1774 two ships had been twice in Oheite-
peha Bay, and had left animals m the country. These, on
further inquiry, ^"ere found to hv hogs, dogs, goats, one bull,
and a ram. That the vessels which had visited Otaheite were
Spanish was plain from an inscription iiuit was cut upon a
wooden cross, standing at some distance from the front of a
house which had been occupied by the strangers.

On the 24th of August Captain Cook quitted the southeast
part of Otaheite and resumed his old station in Matavai Bay.
Immediately upon his arrival he was visited by Otoo, the king
of the whole island, and their former friendship was renewed ;
a friendship which was continued without interruption, and
cemented by a perpetual succession of civilities, good offices,
and entertainments. One of the commander's first objects
was to dispose of all the European animals which were in the
ships. Accordingly, he conveyed to Oparre, Otoo's place of
residence, a peacock and hen, a turkey-cock and hen, one
gander and three geese, a drake and four ducks. The ge se
and ducks began to breed before the navigators left their
present station. Th'ire were already at Otoo's several goats
and the Spanish bull, which was one of the finest animals of
the kind that was ever seen. To the bull Captain Cook sent
the three cows he had on board together with a bull of his
own, to all which were added the horse and mare, and the
sheep that remained in the vessels.

At this time a war was on the point of breaking out be-
tween the inhabitants of Eimeo and those of Otaheite ; and

1 1'

7m.'

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

htl 5

'l 1

\S t

by the latter Captain Cook was requested to take a part in
their favor. With this request, however, though enforced
by frequent and urq;ent solicitations, the captain refused to
comply.

The manner in which the commander was freed from a
rheumatic complaint, that consisted of a pain extending from
the hip to the foot, deserves to be recorded. Otoo's mother,
his three sisters, and eight other women went on board for
the express purpose of undertaking the cure of his disorder.
He accepted of their friendly offer. As many of them as
could get round him began to squeeze him with both hands,
from head to foot, but more particularly in the part where
the pain was lodged. This operation, which is called Roincc,
is universally practised among these islanders ; being some-
•^imes performed by the men, but more generally by the

omen.

Captain Cook, who now had come to the resolution of de-
parting soon from Otaheite, accompanied, on the 27th, Otoo
to Oparre, and examined the cattle and poultry, which he
had consigned to his friend's care at that place. Everything
was in a promising way, and properly attended. The captain
procured from Otoo four goats, two of which he designed to
leave at Ulietea, where none had as yet been introduced, and
the other two he proposed to reserve for the use of any
islands he might chance to meet with in his passage to the
north. On the next day Otoo came on board, and informed
our commander that he had gotten a canoe which he desired
him to carry home as a present to the Earce rahic no Pretanc,

From Otaheite they sailed, on the 30th of September, to
Eimeo, where they came to an anchor on the same day. At
this island the transactions which happened were, for the
most part, very unpleasant. A goat was stolen, and the re-
covery of it was a matter of no small importance ; Captain
Cook was determined to effect this at any rate. Accordingly
he made an expedition across the island, in the course of
which he set fire to six or eight 'houses, and burnt a number
of war canoes. At last, in consequence of a peremptory
message to Maheine, the Chief of Eimeo, that not a single
canoe shodd be left in the country, or an end be put to the
contest, unless the animal in his possession should be re-
stored, the goat was brought back. This quarrel was as
much regretted on the part of the captain as it could be on

CAITAIN COOK S VOYAGES.

e a part in

h enforced

refused to

H'd from a
ndinj^ from
lo's rnother,
1 board for
lis disorder,
of them as
both hands,
part where
ailed Romec,
being some-
rally by the

liition of de-
e 27th, Otoo
:ry, which he
Everythini,^
The captain
t designed to
roduced, and
I use of any
Lssage to the
ind informed
ch he desired
'{e no Pretane.
September, to
ime day. At
were, for the
I, and the re-
nce; Captain
Accordingly
he course of
rnt a number
^ peremptory
t not a single
be put to the
-should be re-
jarrel was as
it could be on

that of the natives. It grieved him to reflect, that, after re-
fusing the pressing solicitations of his friends at Otaheite to
favor their invasion of this island, he should find himself so
speedily reduced to the necessity of engaging in such hostili-
ties as jjcrhaps had been more injurious to them than Towha's
expedition.

On the iithof October the ships departed from Eimeo,
and the next day arrived at Ovvharre harbor, on the west side
of Huaheine. The grand business at this island was the set-
dement of Omai. In onler to obtain the consent of the
chiefs of the island, the affair was conducted with great sol-
emnity, Omai dressed himself very properly on the occa-
sion ; brought with him a suitable assortment of presents;
went through a variety of religious cerem.onies, and made a
speech, the topics of which had been dictated to him by Cap-
tain Cook. The result of the negotiation was, that a spot of
ground was assigned him, the extent of which, along the
shore of the harbor, was about two hundred \ards, and its
depth, to the foot of the hill, somewhat more. A proportion-
able part of the hill was included in the grant. This business
having been adjusted in a satisfactory manner, the carpenters
of both ships were employed in building a small house for
Omai, in which he might secure his European commodities.
At the same time some of the EnMish made a jjarden for his
use, in which they planted shaddocks, vines^ pine-apples,
melons, and the seeds of several other vegetable ardcles. All
of these Captain Cook had the satisfaction of seeing in a
flourishing state before he left the island.

At Huaheine Omai found a brother, a sister, and a brother-
in-law, by whom he was received with great regard and ten-
derness. But though these people were faithful and affec-
tionate in their attachment to him, the Captain discovered,
with concern, that they were of too litde consequence in the
island to be capable of rendering him any positive service.
They had not either authority or influence to protect his per-
son or property ; and, in sucha situation, there was reason to
apprehend that he might be in danger of being stripped of all
his possessions as soon as he should cease to be supported
by the power of the English. To prevent this, if possible, the
commander advised him to conciliate the favor and engage
the patronage and protection of two or three of the principal
chiefs, by a proper distribution of some of his movables;

1111

1 !

it^:

W ■■' !■ i'

' I' r.

>r !

M ■' -; I :

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

with which advice he prudently comphed. Captain Cook,
however, did not entirely trust to the operations of gratitude,
but had recourse to the more forcible motive of intimidation.
With this view he took every opportunity of signifying to the
inhabitants, that it was his intention to return to the island
again after being absent the usual time, and that, if he did not
find Omai in the same state of security in which he left him,
all those whom he should then discover to have been his ene-
mies should feel the weight of his resentment.

When Omai's house was nearly finished, and many of his
movables were carried ashore, a box of toys excited the ad-
miration of the multitude in a much higher degree than arti-
cles of a more useful nature. With regard to his pots, ket-
tles, dishes, plates, drinking-mugs, glasses, and the whole
train of domestic accommodations, which, in our estimation,
are so necessary and important, scarcely any one of his coun-
trymen would condescend to look upon them. Omai him-
self, being sensible that these pieces of English furniture
would be of no great consequence in his present situation,
wisely sold a number of them, among the people of the ships,
for hatchets, and other iron tools, which had a more intrinsic
value in this part of the world, and would give him a more
distinguished superiority over those with whom he was to
pass the remainder of his days.

The European weapons of Omai consisted of a musket,
bayonet, and cartridge-box; a fowling-piece, two pair of pis-
tols, and two or three swords or cutlasses. With the posses-
sion of these warlike implements he was highly deliglited;
and it was only to gratify his eager desire for them, that Cap-
tain Cook was induced to make liun such presents. The cap-
tain would otherwise have thought it happier for him to be
without fire-arms, or any European weapons, lest an impru-
dent use of them (and prudence was not his most distin-
guished talent) should rather increase his dangers than estab-
lish his superiority.

Before the captain sailed from Huaheine, he had the fol-
lowing inscription cut on the outside of Omai's house:

Georgius Tertius, Rex, 2 Novembris, 1777.
»T j Resolution, Jac. Cook, Pr.

iscovery, Car Clerke, Pr.

ptain Cook,
of gratitude,
intimielation.

ifyin

to tlu

;o the island
, if he did not
1 he left him,
been his enc-

many of his
ccited the ad-
ree than arti-
his pots, kct-
[\d the whole
ur estimation,
^e of his coiin-
Omai him-
dish furniture
sent situation,
le of the ships,
more intrinsic
/e him a more
om he was to

of a musket,
;vo pair of pis-
ith the posses-
ily delighted;
lem, that Cap-
nts. The cap-
for him to be
est an impru-
is most distin-
rers than estab-

he had the foi-
s house :

1777.

CAPTAIN COOK S VOYAGES.

On the same day Omai took his final leave of the navigators,
in doing which he bade farewell to all the officers in a very
affectionate manner. He sustained himself with a manly
resolution till he came to Captain Cook, when his utmost
efforts to conceal his tears failed ; and he continued to weep
all the time that the boat was conveying him to shore. Not
again to resume the subject, I shall here mention that when
the captain was at Ulietea, a fortnight after this event, Omai
sent two men with the satisfactory intelligence that he re-
mained undisturbed by the people of Huaheine, and that
everything succeeded well with him, excepting in the loss of
his goat, which had died in kifldiiig. This intelligence was
accompanied with a request that another goat might be given
him, together with two axes. The commander, esteeming
himself happy in having an additional opportunity of serving
him, despatched the messengers back with the axes, and a
couple of kids, male and female, which were spared for him
out of the Discovery,

The fate of the two youths who had been brought from
New Zealand must not be forgotten. As they were extremely
desirous of continuing with tlie English, Captain Cook would
have carried them to England with him, if there had appeared
the most distant probability of their ever being restored to
their own country. Tiarooa, the eldest of them, was a very
well-disposed young man, with strong natural sense, and a
capacity of receiving any instruction. He seemed to be fully
convinced of the inferiority of New Zealand to these islands,
and resigned himself, though not without some degree of re-
luctance, to end his days, in ease and plenty, in Huaheine.
The other had formed so strong an attachment to the naviga-
tors, that it was necessary to take him out of the ship, and
carry him ashore by force. This necessity was the more
painful as he was a witty, smart boy, and, on that account, a
great favorite on board. Both these youths became a part
of Omai's family.

On the 3d of November the ships came to an anchor in
the harbor of Ghamaneno, in the island of Ulietea. The ob-
servatories being set up on the 6th, and the necessary instru-
ments having been carried on shore, the two following days
were employed in making astronomical observations. In the
night between the 12th and 13th, John Harrison, a marine,
who was sentinel at the observatory, deserted, taking with

lOO

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

?t !

r sf

U,'

ij^t'

fiil

f'''ll!-!

him his arms and accoiitremenls. Captain Cook exerted him-
self on this occasion with his usual vigor. He went himseh
in pursuit of the deserter, who, after some evasion on the part
of the inhabitants, was surrendered. He was found sitting
between two women, with the musket lying before him ; and
all the defence he was able to make was that he had been en-
ticed away by the natives. As this account was probably the
truth, as it appeared he had remained upon his post till within
ten minutes of the time when he was to have been relieved,
the punishment which the captain inflicted upon him was not
very severe.

The last of the Society Islands was Bolabola, where they
arrived on the 8th of December. The chief view in passing
over to this island was to procure from its monarch, C)poony,
an anchor which M. De Boufrainville had lost at Otaheite.
and which had been conveyed to P)o]abola. It was not from
a want of anchors that Captain Cook was desirous of making
the purchase, but to convert the iron of which it consisted
into a fresh assortment of tradinof articles, these beinsr now
very much exhausted. The captain succeeded in his nego-
tiation, and amply rewarded Opoony for giving up the
anchor.

Although seventeen months had elapsed since Captsin
Cook's departure from England, during which time he had
not, upon the whole, been unprofitably employed, he was
sensible that, with respect to the principai object of his in-
structions, it was now only the commencement of his voyage;
and that, therefore, his attention was to be called anew to
every circumstance which might contribute towards the safety
of the crew and the ultimate success of the expedition. Ac-
cordingly, he had examined into the state of the provisions
whilst he was at the Society Islands ; and, as soon as he had
left them, and had gotten beyond the extent of ♦his former dis-
coveries, he ordered a survey to be taken^q^' all the boat-
swain's and carpenter's stores which were m the ships, that
he might be fully informed of their quantity and condition,
and by that means know how to use them to the greatest
advantage.

It was on the 8th of December, the very day on which hi
had touched there, that the commander sailed from Bolabola.
In the -light between the 2 2d and 23d he crossed the line, in
die longitude of 203° 15' east, and on the 24th land was dis-

i%<\

CAPTAIN COOKS VOYAGES.

lOI

covered, which was found to be one of those low, uninhabited
islands that are so frequent in tliis ocean. Here our voyajT^ers
were successful in catching a large quantity of turtle, which
supplied them with an agreeable refreshment ; and here, on
the 28th, an eclipse of the sun was observed. On account
of the season of the year, the captain called the land, which
he judged to be about fifteen or twenty leagues in circum-
ference, Christmas Island.

On the 2d of January, 1778, the ships resumed their course
to the northward, and thou<»-h several evidences occurred of
the vicinity of land, none was discovered till the i8th, when
an island made its appearance, bearing northeast by east.
Soon after more land was seen, lying towards the north, and
endrely detached from the former. The succeeding day was
distinguished by the discovery of a third island, in the direc-
tion of west-northwest, and as far distant as the eye could
reach. In steering towards the second island they had some
doubt whether the land before them was inhabited ; but this
matter was speedily cleared up by the putting off of some
canoes from the shore, containing from three to six men each.
Upon their approach, the English were agreeably surprised
to find that they spoke the language of Otaheite, and of the
odier countries which had lately been visited.

On the 2d of February, 1778, they pursued their course to
the northward. The lonj^-looked-for coast of New Albion
was seen on the 7th of March, the ships being then in the
ladtude of 44° ^;^' north, and in thj longitude of 235° 20' east.
As the vessels ranged along the west side of America. Cap-
tain Cook gave names to several capes and headlands which
appeared in sight. At length, on the 29th, the captain came
to an anchor at an inlet where the appearance of the country
differed much from what had been seen before, being full of
mountains, the summits of which were covered with snow,
while the valleys between them and the grounds on the sea-
coast, high as well as low, were covered to a considerable
breadth with high, straight trees, which formed a beautiful
prospect, as of one vast forest. It was immediately found
that the coast was mhabited ; and there soon came off to the
Resolution three canoes, containing eighteen of the natives,
who could not, however, be prevailed upon to venture them-
selves on board. Notwithstanding this, they displayed a
peaceable disposition, showed great readiness to part with

.iT! flfji-f «w

<st 1^

1 02

ANTARCTIC EXPI-ORATIONS.

III

l¥\

anything they had in exchange for what was offered them, and
expressed a stronger desire for iron than for any other of our
commercial articles, appearing to be perfectly acquainted with
the use of that metal.

The ships having found an excellent inlet, the coasts of
which appeared to be inhabited by a race of people who were
disposed to maintain a friendly intercourse with strangers,
Captain Cook's first object was to search for a commodious
harbor, and he had litde trouble in discovering what he
wanted. A trade having immediately commenced, the articles
which the inhabitants offered for sale were the skins of various
animals, such as bears, wolves, foxes, deer, raccoons, and
polecats. To these were added the skins in their native
shape, garments made of them, another sort of clothing formed
from the bark of a tree, and various different pieces of work-
manship. But of all of the articles brought to market, the
most extraordinary were human skulls, and hands not yet
quite stripped of their flesh, some of which had evident marks
of their having been upon the fire. The things which the
natives took in exchange for their commodities were knives,
chisels, pieces of iron and tin, nails, looking-glasses, buttons,
or any kind of metal. Glass beads did not strike their imag-
inations, and cloth of every sort they rejected. Though com-
merce in general was carried on with mutual honesty, there
were some among these people who were as much inclined
to thieving as the islanders in the Southern Ocean.

On Captain Cook's first arrival in this inlet he had honored
it with the name of King George's Sound, but he afterwards
found that it is called Nootka by the natives.

On the 26th of April, the repairs of the ships having been
completed, everything was ready for the captain's departure,
When in the afternoon of that day the vessels were upon the
point of sailing, the mercury in the barometer fell unusually
low, and there was every other presage of an approachin<i
storm, which might reasonably be expected to come from the
soudiward. This circumstance induced the commander in
some degree to hesitate, and especially as night was at hand,
whether he should venture to sail or wait till the next morn-
ing. But his anxious impatience to proceed upc u uu: voy-
age, and the fear of losing the present opportunity of gettin:^
out of die sound, made a greater impression upo.; Ids niin '
than any apprehension of immediate dangCi. He '•etet n> ,ied

CAPTAIN COOKS VOYAGES.

103

red them, and
y other of our
:quainted with

the coasts of
ople who were
nth strangers,
a commodious
ering what he
ced, the articles
skins of various

raccoons, and
in their native
clothing formed
pieces of work-
; to market, the
. hands not yet
cl evident marks
things which^ the
ties were knives,
-alasses, buttons,
itVike their imag-
1. Though Corn-
ell honesty, there
IS much inchned

icean.
. he had honored

ut he afterwards

[hips having been
Plain's departure.
As were upon die
fter fell unusually
V an approaching
I to come from the
le commander in
iaht was at hand,
\\\ the next morn-
td upc ii llv '^pV"
)rtumt_y of g^'^-'*';,
,n upo.i liis nvAV

He :ie^v^in^

,^ed

to put to sea at all events, and accordingly carried his design
into ey ..ution that evening. He was not deceived in his ex-
pectations of a storm. Scarcely were the vessels out of the
sound before the wind increased to a strong gale, with squalls
and rain, accompanied by so dark a sky that the length of the
ships could not be seen. Happily the wind took a direction
that blew them from the coast. On the 2'jth the tempest rose
to a perfect hurricane, and the Resolution sprang a leak, but
no material damage ensued.

The first place at which Captain Cook landed after his de-
parture from Nootka Sound Avas at an island of eleven or
twelve leagues in length, the southwest point of which lies in
the latitude of 59° 49' north, and the longitude of 216° 58'
east. He named it Kaye's Island.

At an inlet, where the shi[)s came to an anchor on the i 2th,
and to which Captain Cook gave the appellation of Prince
William's Sound, he had an opportunity not only of stopping
the leak which the Resolution had sprung in the late storm,
and of prosecuting his nautical and geographical discoveries,
but of making considerable addidons to his knowledofe of the
inhabitants of the American coast. From every observation
which was made concerning the persons of the natives of this
part of the coast it appeared that they had a striking resem-
blance to those of the Esquimaux and Greenlanders, Their
canoes, their weapons, and their instruments for fishing and
hunting are likewise exactly the same, in point of materials
and construction, that are used m Greenland. Tiie animals
in the neighborhood of Prince William's Sound were, in gen-
eral, similar to those which are found at Nootka. One of the
most beautiful skins here offered for sale was, however, that
of a small animal, which seemed to be peculiar to the place.
Anderson was inclined to think that it is the animal which is
uescribed under the name of the Cafan Marmot.

On the 27th of June, 1778, they reached an island that is
known by the name of Oonalaska, the inhabitants of which
behaved with a degree of politeness uncommon to savage
tribes. A young man who had upset his canoe, being obliged
by this accident to come on board the ship, went down into
Captain Cook's cabin upon the first invitation without ex-
pressing die least reluctance or uneasiner.s His own clothes
being wet the captain gave him others, n\ wnich he dressed
himself with as much ease as any Engn^i.man could have

i it

if!

J'M,

M!!i

I I.

Ff-|

i ^

i !

^'^T'l

Mil

■ :

M^K^i:

T04.

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

done. From the behavior of this youth, and that oi ome of
the rest of the natives, it was evident that these people were
no strangers to Europeans and to several of their customs.
There was something, however, in the English ships that
greatly excited their attention, for such as could not come off
in canoes assembled on the neiohboringf hills to look at them.
In one instance it was apparent that the inhabitants were so
far from having made any progress in politeness that they
were still immersed in the most savage manners. Soon after
the vessels had come to an anchor at Oonalaska, a native of
the island brought on board such another note as had been
given to Captain Gierke. He presented it to Captain Cook ;
but, as it was written in the Russian language, and could be
of no use to the English, though it might be of consequence
to others, the captain returned it to the bearer and dismissed
him with a few presents, for which he expressed his thanks by
makino- several low bows as he retired.

On the 3d of August they had advanced to the latitude of
62° 34'. A great loss was sustained by them in thv. death of
Anderson, the surgeon of the Resolution, who had been lin-
gering under a consumption for more than twelve months.
He was a young man of a cultivated understanding and
agreeable manners, and was well skilled in his own profession ;
besides which he had acquired a considerable degree of
knowledge in other branches of science. How useful an as-
sistant he was to Captain Cook has often appeared in the
present narrative, and is fully displayed in the voyage at large.
Soon after he had breathed his last, land having been seen at
a distance, which was supposed to be an island, they honored
it with the appellation of Anderson's Island. The next day
he removed Law, the surgeon of the Discovery, into the Res-
olution, and appointed Samwell, the surgeon's first mate of
the Resolution, to be surgeon of the Discovery.

On the 9th the captain anchored under a point of land to
which he gave the name of Cape Prince of Wales, and which
is remarkable by being the most western extremity of Amer-
ica hitherto explored. This extremity is distant from the
eastern Cape of Siberia only thirteen leagues, and thus had
the glory of ascertaining the vicinity of the two continents,
which had only been conjectured from the reports of the
neighboring Asiatic inhabitants, and the imperfect observa-
tions of the Russian naviijators.

CAPTAIN COOK S VOYAGES.

105

oi tome of
people were
leir customs.
li ships that
not come off
00k at them,
ants were so
:ss that they
Soon after
I, a native of
as had been
aptain Cook ;
md could be

consequence
ind dismissed
his thanks by

he latitude of
i th^ death of
had been lin-
Arelve months,
rstanding and
wn profession;
e deijree of
useful an as-
3-ared in the
jyage at large,
been seen at
they honored
The next day
, into the Res-
first mate of

)int of land to
,ies, and which
mity of Amer-
tant from the

and thus had
wo continents,
reports of the

rfect observa-

Resuming his course on the loth Captain Cook anchored
in a bay, the land of which was at first supposed to be a part
of the island of Alaska which was laid down in Sta-hlin's
map. But, from the figure of the coast, from the situation of
the opposite shore of America, and from the longitude the
captain soon began to think it was more probably the country
of die Tchucktchi on the eastern extremity of Asia, which had
been explored by Behring in 1728. In the result it appeared
that this was in fact the case.

From the country of the Tchucktchi they steered on the
nth of July to the east, in order to get nearer to the coast
of America. After that, proceeding to the north, they reached
on the 17th the latitude of 70° t,;^'. On this day a brightness
was observed in the northern horizon, like that which is re-
flected from ice, and is commonly called the blink. This was
at first but little noticed from a supposition that there was no
probability of meeting with ice so soon ; and yet the sharp-
ness of the air and the gloominess of the weather had for
two or three dayr past seemed to indicate a sudden change.
In about an hour's time the siq^ht of a lar^je field of ice left
Captain Cook no longer in doubt with regard to the cause of
the brightness of the horizon. The ships, in the same after-
noon, being then in the latitude of 70° 41', were close to the
edge of the ice, and not able to stand on any farther. On
the 1 8th, when the vessels were in the latitude of 70^ 44', the
ice on the side of them was as compact as a wall, and was
judged to be at least ten or twelve feet in height. Farther'
to the north it appeared to be much higher. Its surface was
extremely rugged, and in different places there were seen upon
it pools of water. A prodigious number of sea-horses lay
upon the ice, and some of them, on the 19th, were procured
for food, there being at this time a want of fresh provisions.
When the animals were brought to the vessels, it was no
small disappointment to many of the seamen, who had feasted
their eyes for several days with the prospect of eating them,
to find that they were not sea-cows, as they had supposed,
but sea-horses. This disappointment would not have been
occasioned or the difference known had there not happened
to be one or two sailors on board who had been in Greenland,
and who declared what these animals were, and that it never
was customary to eat them. Such, however, was the anxiety
for a chann:e of diet as to overcome this prejudice. They

IS \ f

io6

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

i!i;

lit-
'if'

I, ;

) 1 '' d

lived upon the sea-horses as long as they lasted, and there
were few who did not prefer them to the salt meat.

Captain Cook continued to the 29th to traverse the icy sea
beyond Behring Strait in various directions and through
numberless obstructions and difficulties. Every day the ice
increased so as to preclude all hopes of attaining, at least
during the present year, the grand object of the voyage. The
season was now so far advanced, and the time in which the
frost was expected to set in was so near at hand, that it would
have been totally inconsistent widi prudence to have made
any further attempts till the next summer at finding a passage
into the Atlantic. The attention was now directed to other
important and necessary concerns. It was of great conse-
quence to meet with a place where they might be supplied
witli wood and water. But the point which principally occu-
pied the captain's thoughts was how he should spend the
winter so as to make some improvements in geography and
navigation, and, at the same time, to be in a condition to re-
turn to the north in further search of a passage in the ensu-

mg summer.

Before Captain Cook proceeded far to the south he em-
ployed a considerable time in examining the sea and coasts
in the neighborhood of Behring Strait, both on the side of
Asia and America. In this examination he ascertained the
accuracy of Behring so far as he went, demonstrated the
errors with which Stcehlin's map of the New Northern Archi-
pelago abounds, and made large additions to the geographical
knowledge of this part of the world.

On the 2d of October, 1778, they came within sight of the
island of Oonalaska, and anchored the next day in Samga-
noodha Harbor. Here the first concern was to put the ships
under the necessary repair ; and, while the carpenters were
employed in this business, one-third of the crew had permis-
sion, by turns, to go and collect the berries with which the
island abounds, and which, though now beginning to be in a
state of decay, did not a little contribute, in conjunction with
spruce-beer, effectually to eradicate every seed of scurvy that
might exist in either of ti. vessels. Such a supply of fish
was likewise procured, as net only served for present con-
sumption, but afforded a quantity to be carried out to sea; so
that hence a considerable saving was made of the p/ovisions
of the ships, which was at this time an object of importance.

CAITAIN COOKS VOYAGES.

107

Captain Cook, on the 8th, received, by the hands of an
OonalasUa man named Derramoushtc, a very sin^nilar pres-
ent, which was tliat of a rye loaf, or rather a pie in the form
of a loaf, for it inclosed some salmon highly seasoned with
pepper. This man had a like present lor Captain Clerke,
and a note for each of the two captair s, written in a character
which none on board could understand. It was natural to
suppose that the presents came from some Russians in the
neighborhood ; and therefore a few lH)tLles ol rum, wine and
porter were sent to these unknown frieiuls in return ; it being
rightly judged that such articles would be more acceptable
than anything else. Corporal Lediard of the marines, an in-
telligent man, was, at the same time, directed to accompany
Derramoushk for the purpose of gaining further information ;
and with orders, if he met with any Russians, that he should
endeavor to make them understand that they were English-
men, and the friends and allies of their nation. On the loth
the corporal returned with three Russian seamen, or furriers,
who, with several others, resided at Egoochshac, where they
had a dwelling-house, some store-houses and a sloop of about
thirty tons burthen. One of these men was either master
or mate of this vessel ; another of them wrote a very good
hand, and was acquainted with figures; and all of them were
sensible and well-behaved persons, who were ready to give
Captain Cook every possible degree of information. The
great difficulty In the reception and communication of intelli-
gence arose from the want of an interpreter. On the 14th a
Russian landed at Oonalaska whose name was Erasim
Gregorioff Sin Ismyloff, and who was the principal person
among his countrymen in this and the neighboring islands.
Besides the intelligence which they derived from his con-
versations with Ismyloff, and which were carried on by signs,
assisted by figures and other characters, they obtained from
him the sight of two charts, and were permitted to copy them.
Both of them were manuscripts and bore every mark of
authenticity. The first included the PensJmiskimi Sea ; the
coast of Tartary down to the latitude of 41°; the Kuril
Islands and the peninsula of Kamtschatka. But it was the
second chart that was the most interesting to Captain Cook ;
for it comprehended all the discoveries made by the Russians
to the eastward of Kamtschatka towards America ; which,
however^ exclusively of the voyages of Behring and Tscheri-

fA^

■;'-/i;tv i

II, ■ ■

t ' i 'r =. Ik

iffili! f.

1 08

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

koff, amounted to little or nothinjr. Indeed, all the people
with whom the captain conversed at Oonalaska agreed in
assurin^T him, over and over again, that they knew of no
other islands, besides those which were laid down upon this
chart ; and that no Russian had ever seen any part of the
condnent of America to the northward, excepting- that which
lies opposite to the country of the Tchucktchis.

When, on the 21st, Ismyloff took his final leave of the Eng-
lish navigators they intrusted to his care a lettcir to the Lords
Commissioners of the Admiralty, in which was enclosed a
chart of all the northern coasts the captain had visited. It
was expected that there would be an opportunity of sendingr
this letter, in the ensuing spring, to Kamtschatka or Ochotsk,
and tiiat it would reach Petersburg during the following win-
ter. Ismyloff, who faithfully and successfully discharged the
trust reposed in him, seemed to possess abilities that might
entide him to a higher stadon in life than that which he occu-
pied. He had a considerable knowledge of astronomy, and
was acquainted with the most useful branches of the mathe-
matics. Captain Cook made him a present of an Hadley's
octant ; and, though it was probably the first he had ever
seen, he understood, in a very short time, the various uses to
which that instrument can be applied.

While the ships lay at Oonalaska they did not neglect to
make a diligent inquiry into the productions of the island,
and the {general manners of the inhabitants.

All things having been gotten ready for his departure,
Captain Cook put to sea on the 26th day of October, 1778,
for the Sandwich Islands, it being his intention to spend a tew
months there and then to direct his course to Kamtschatka, so
as to endeavor to reach that country by the middle of May
in the ensuing summer.

On the 26th of November, when the ships had proceeded
southward till they came to the latitude of 20° 55', land was
discovered, which proved to be an island of the name of
Mowee, that had not hitherto been visited. It is one of the
group of the Sandwich Islands. As it v;as of the last im-
portance to procure a supply of provisions at these islands,
and experience had taught them that they could have no
chance of succeeding in this object if it were left to every
man's discretion to traffic for what he pleased, and in what
manner he pleased, the captain published an order prohibiting

CAITAIN CO(jKS V()YAGI:S.

109

all persons from tradiiiL;, cxceptingr such as should be ap-
pointed by himself and Cai)tain Gierke. Even these persons
were enjoined to trade only for provisions and retreshments.
While they lay olf Mowee, which was for some days, a
friendly intercourse was maintained with the inhabitants.

Another island was discovered on the 30th, which is called
by the natives Owhyhee. As it appeared to be of greater
extent and importance than any of the islands which had yet
been visited in this part of the world, Captain Cook spent
nearly seven weeks in sailing round and examining its coast.
While he was thus employed the inhabitants came off from
time to time in their canoes and readily engaged in traffic.
In the conduct of this business the behavior of the islanders
was more entirely free from suspicion and reserve than Cook
had ever yet experienced. Not even the people of Otaheite,
with whom he had been so intimately and repeatedly con-
nected, had displayed such a full confidence in the integrity
and cfood treatment of the Encjlish.

On the 1 6th of January, 1779, canoes arrived In such num-
bers from all parts that there were not less than a thousand
around the two ships, most of them crowded with people and
well laden with hogs and other productions of the Island. It
was a satisfactory proof of their friendly Intentions that there
was not a single person among them who had with him a
weapon of any kind ; trade and curiosity alone appearing
to be the motives which actuated their conduct. Among
such multitudes as at times were on board It will not be
deemed surprising that some should betray a thievish dispo-
sition. One of them took out of the Resolution a boat's rud-
der and made off with it so speedily that It could not be re-
covered. Captain Cook judged this to be a favorable
opportunity of showing these people the use of fire-arms, and
accordingly he ordered two or three muskets and as many
four-pounders to be fired over the canoe which carried off the
rudder. It not being Intended that any of the shot should
take effect, the surrounding multitude of the natives seemed
to be more surprised than terrified.

On the 1 7th the ships came to an anchor in the bay which
had been examined by Bligh and which Is called Krakatoa by
the inhabitants. At this time the vessels continued to be
much crowded with natives and were surrounded with a mul-
titude of canoes. Captain Cook, in the whole course of his

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IMAGE EVALUATION
TEST TARGET (MT-3)

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I.I

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l:£|28 |25

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WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S«0

(716) 873-4503

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( ;

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

voyap^es, had never seen so numerous a body of people as-
sembled in one place. For, besides those who had come off
to the ship in their canoes, all the shore of the bay was cov-
ered with spectators and many hundreds were swimming
round like shoals of fish. The navigators could not avoid
being greatly impressed with the singularity of this scene, and
perhaps there v;ere few on board tiiat now lamented the want
of success which had attended the endeavors of getting
homeward the last summer by a northern passage. " To this
disappointment," says the captain, " we owed our having it in
our power to revisit the Sandwich Islands and to enrich the
voyage with a discovery which, though the last, seemed in
many respects to be the most important that had hitherto
been made throughout the extent of the Pacific Ocean."

The reception which the captain met with from the natives
on his proceeding to anchor in Krakatoa Bay was flattering
in the highest degree. They came off from the shore in as-
tonishing numbers and expressed their joy by singing and
shouting and by exhibiting a variety of wild and extravagant
gestures.

During the long cruise off the island of Owhyhee the in-
habitants had almost universally behaved with great fairness
a.id honesty in their dealings and had not shown the slightest
propensity to theft. But after the arrival of the Resolution
and Discovery in Krakatoa Bay the case was greatly altered.
The immense crowd of islanders that blocked up every part
of the ships not only afforded frequent opportunities of pil-
fering without risk of detection, but held out, even if they
should be detected, a prospect of escaping with impunity from
the superiority of their numbers.

Soon after the Resolution had gotten into her station
Pareea and Kaneena brought on board a third chief, named
Koah, who was represented as being a priest and as having
in his early youth been a distinguished warrior. In the even-
ing Captain Cook, attended by Bayley and King, accompanied
Koah on shore. Upon this occasion the captain was received
with very peculiar and extraordinary ceremonies, with cere-
monies that indicated the highest respect on the part of the
natives and which, indeed, seemed to fall little short of
adoration.

Early on the 4th the ships sailed out of Krakatoa Bay, be-
ing followed by a large number of canoes. It was the com-

CAPTAIN COOKS VOYAGES.

Ill

mander's design, before he visited the other islands, to finish
the survey of Owhyhee. in hopes of meeting with a road bet-
ter sheltered than the bay he had just left. In case of not
succeeding in this respect, he purposed to take a view of the
southeast part of Mowee, where he was informed that he
should find an excellent harbor.

The circumstances which brought Captain Cook back to
Krakatoa Bay and the unhappy consequences that followed
are taken from Samwell's narrative of his death :

•'On the 6th of February, 1779, we were overtaken by a
gale of wind, and the next night the Resolution had the mis-
fortune of springing the head of her foremast in such a dan-
gerous manner that Captain Cook was obliged to return to
Krakatoa in order to have it repaired, for we could find no
other convenient harbor on the island.

"On the morning of the loth of February we were witi .n
a few miles of the harbor, and were soon joined by several
canoes in which appeared many of our old acquaintances, who
seemed to have come to welcome us back. Among them
was Cooaha, a priest. He had brought a small pig and some
cocoanuts in his hand, which, after having chanted a few sen-
tences, he presented to Captain Clerke. He then left us and
hastened on board the Resolution to perform the same friendly
ceremony before Captain Cook. Having but light winds all
that day, we could not gain the harbor. In the afternoon a
chief of the first rank, and nearly related to Kariopoo, paid
us a visit on board the Discovery. His name was Kameamea.
He was dressed in a very rich feathered cloak, which he
seemed to have brought for sale, but would part with it for
nothing except iron daggers. These the chiefs, some time
before our departure, had preferred to every article ; for,
having received a plentiful supply of hatchets and other tools,
they began to collect a store of warlike instruments. Kam-
eamea procured nine daggers for his cloak, and, being pleased
with his reception, he and his attendants slept on board that
night.

"In the morning of the nth of February the ships an-
chored again in Krakatoa bay, and preparation was imme-
diately made for landing the Resolution's foremast. We were
visited but by few of the Indians, because there were but few
in the bay. On our departure those belonging to other parts
had repaired to their several habitations, and were again to

111

f !■

; Hi

112

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

collect from various quarters before we could expect to be
surrounded by such multitudes as we had once i^^en in that
harbor. In the afternoon I walked about a mile in the coun-
try to visit an Indian friend who had a few days before come
near twenty miles in a small canoe to see me while the ship
lay becalmed. As the cnnoe had not left us long before a
gale of wind came on, I was alarmed for the consequence ;
lunvever, I had the pleasure to find that my friend had es-
capc<l unhurt, though not without some difficulties. I take
notice of this short excursion merely because it afforded me
an opportunity of observing that there appeared no change
in the disposition or behavior of the inhabitants. I saw
nothing that could induce me to think thac they were dis-
pleased with our return or jealous of the intention of our
second visit. On the contrary, that abundant good nature
which had always characterized them, seemed still to glow in
every bosom and to animate every countenance.

"The next day, February the 12th, the ships were put
under taboo by the chiefs, a solemnity, it seems, that was
requisite to be observed before Kariopoo, the kini;^, paid his
first visit to Captain Cook after his return. He waited upon
him the same day, on board the Resolution, attended by a
large train, some of which bore the presents designed for
Captain Cook, who received him in his usual friendly nianner
and gave him several articles in return. This amicable cere-
mony being settled, the taboo was dissolved, matters went on
in the usual train, and the next day, February the 13th, we
were visited by the natives in great numbers. The Resolu-
tion's mast was landed, and the astronomical observatories
erected on their former situation. We landed at the town of
Kavaroah, where we found a great number of canoes just
arrived from different parts of the island, and the Indians
busy in constructing temporary huts on the beach for their
residence during the stay of the ships.

"On our return on board of the Discovery we learned that
an Indian had been detected in stealing the armorer's tongs
from the forge, for which he received a pretty severe flog-
ging and was sent out of the ship. Notwithstanding the ex-
ample made of this man, in the afternoon another had the
audacity to snatch the tongs and a chisel from the same
place, with which he jumped overboard and swam for the
shore. The master and the midshipman were instandy

CAPTAIN COOKS VOYAGES. II3

despatched after him in a small cutter. The Indian seeing
himself pursued made for a canoe; his countrymen took him
on board and paddled as swift as they could towanls the
shore ; we fired several muskets at them, but to no effect, for
they soon ip^ot out of the reach c( our shot. Pareah, one of
the chiefs, who was at that time on board the Discovcy, un-
derstandins,^ what had happened, immediately went ashore,
j)romising to brinji^ back the stolen t^oods. Our boat was so
far distanced, in chasinu^ the canoe which had taken the thief
on boiird, that he had time to make his escape into the coun-
try. Captain Cook, who was then ashore, endeavored to in-
tercept his landing; but, it seems, that he was led out of the
way by some of the natives, who had officiously intruded
themselves as guides. As the master was approaching near
the landing-place he was met by some of the Indians in a
canoe ; they had brought back the tongs and chisel, together
with another article that we had not missed, which happened
to be the lid of the water-cask. Having recovered these
things he was returning on board when he was met by the
Resolution's pinnace with five men in her, who, without any
orders, had come from the observatories to his assistance.
Being thus unexpectedly reinforced he thought himself strong
enough to insist upon having the thief, or the canoe which
took him in, delivered up as reprisals. With that view he
turned back ; and having found the canoe on the beach he
was preparing to launch it into the water when Pareah made
his appearance, and insisted upon his not taking it away as
it was his property. The officer not regarding him the chief
seized upon him, pinioned his arms behind, and held him
by the hair of the head — on which one of the sailors struck
him with an oar; Pareah instantly quitted the officer,
snatched the oar out of the man's hand and snapped it in
two across his knee. At length the multitude began to
attack our people with stones. They made some resistance,
but were soon overpowered and obliged to swim for safet}'^
to the small cutter, which lay farther out than the pinnace.
The officers not being expert swimmers retreated to a small
rock in the water, where they were closely pursued by the
Indians. One man darted a broken oar at the master; but
his foot slipping at the time he missed him, which fortunately
saved the officer's life. At last Pareah interfered and put an
end to their violence. The gentlemen, knowing that his

Si I.

f!4

ANTARCTIC EXPI-OKA TIONS.

) 1

presence was thiir only defence aj^ainst the fury of the
natives, entreated him to stay with them till they could tjet
off in the boats ; but that lie refused and left them, i lie
master went to seek assistance from the party at tiie observa-
tories ; but the midshipman chose to remain in the pinnaci*.
He was very rudely treated by the mob, who plundered the
boat of everythin*^ that was loose on board, and then bej^an to
knock her to pieces for tlu; sake of the iron-work ; but Pareali
fortunately returned in timt^ to prevent her destruction, lie
had met the other gentleman on his way to the observatories,
and, suspectin<r his errand, had forced him to n^turn. Mc
dispersed the crowd again, and desired the gentlemen to re-
turn on board; they represented that all the oars had been
taken out of the boat, on which he brought some of them
back, and the gentlemen were glad to get off without further
molestation. They had not proceeded far before tlu^y were
overtaken by Pareah in a canoe ; he delivered the midship-
man's cap, which had been taken from him in the scuffle,
joined noses with them in token of reconciliation, and was
anxious to know if Captain Cook would kill him for what bad
happened. They assured him of the contrary, and made signs
of friendship to him in return. He then left them and pad-
dled over to the town of Kavaroah, and that was the last
time we ever saw him. Captain Cook returned on board
soon after much displeased with the whole of this disagree-
able business ; and the .same night sent a lieutenant on board
the Discovery to learn the particulars of it, as it had originated
in that ship.

" It was remarkable that in the midst of the hurry and con-
fusion attending this affair, Kanynah (a chief who had always
been on terms particularly friendly with us) came from the
spot where it happened, widi a hog to sell, on board of the
Discovery. It was of an extraordinary large size, and he de-
manded for it a pahowa, or dagger, of an unusual length.
He pointed to us that it must be as long as his arm. Captain
Clerke, not having one of that length, told him he would get
one made for him by the morning, with which being satisfied
he left the hog and went ashore without making any stay'
with us. It will not be altogether foreign to the subject to
mention a circumstance that happened on board the Resolu-
tion. An Indian chief asked Captain Cook at his table if he
was a Tala Toa, which means a fighting man, or a soldier.

CAITAIN ('(K/KS VOYAnKS.

»»5

fury of the
licy couUl .tjct
t xhv.m. ilu-
t the obstTva-
II ihe pinnace.
)luncl(.'r(:cl llu;
then bc^an to
k ; but Parcah
truction. Ho
obs(;rvatorics,
) return. He
ntlemcn to rc-
oars liad been
some of them
without further
fore they were
d the midship-

in the scuffle,
ation, and was
m for what had
and made signs
them and pad-
at was the last
rned on board
■ this disao^rec-
enant on board

had originated

lurry and con-
vho had always
came from the
>n board of the
size, and he de-
unusual length.
5 arm. Captain
m he would get

being satisfied
taking any stay'

. the subject to
.rd the Resolu-

t his table if he

in, or a soldier.

Beinjj answer red in the affirmativ<
wounds.

\h'. (hrsired to s(re his
Captain Cook held out Iiis right hand, wluth IkkI
a scar upon it, dividing iht; tluunb Irotn llu; finger, tiie whole
jengtii of the metacarpal bones. I'iie Imlian, being llius con-
vinced of his being a Toa, put tiie same (piestion to another
g(MU!(Mnan prest-nt, but he iiappened to have none of those
distinguishing marks. 'I'he chief then said that he himself
was a Foa, and shovvetl the scars of some wounds he had re-
ceived in battle. Those who were on duty at the observa-
tories were disturbed, during the night, with shrill ami mirlan-
choly sounds issuing from the adjacent villages, which ihey
took to be the lamentations of the women. Perhaps the
(piarrel between us might have filled their minds with appre-
hensions for the safety of thenr husbands ; but, be lluit as it
may, their mournful cries struck the sentinels with unusual
awe and terror.

"To widen the breach between us some of the bulians, in
the night, took away tlu; 1 )iscovery's large cutter, which lay
swam[)ed at the buoy of one of her anciiors. Th(?y hatl car-
ried her off so cpiietly that we did not miss her till the. morn
ing, Sunday, February the 14th. Captain Clcrke lost no
time in waiting upon Captain Cook, to acquaint him with the
accident; he returned on board with orders for the launch
and cutter to go, under the command of the second lieuten-
ant, and lie off the east point of the bay, in order to intercept
all canoes that might attempt to get out; and, if he found it
necessary, to fire upon them. At the same time the third
lieutenant of the Resolution, with the launch and small cutter,
was sent on the same service to the opposite point of the
bay ; and the master was despatched in the large cutter, in
pursuit of a double canoe, already under sail, making the
best of her way out of the harbor. He soon came up with
her, and by firing a few muskets drove her on shore, and the
Indians left her. This happened to be the canoe of Omea, a
man who bore the title of Orono. He was on board himself,
and it would have been fortunate if our people had secured
him, for his person was held as saced as that of the king.
During this time Captain Cook was preparing to go ashore
himself, at the town of Kavaroak, in order to secure the per-
son of Kariopoo, before he should have time to withdraw
himself to another part of the island out of our reach. This
appeared the most effectual step that could be taken on the

' ' I

1 6

ANIARCriC EXPLORATIONS.

\h<k. |;

1' '•■

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present occasion for the recovery of the boat. It was the
measure he had invariably piirsiicd, in simihir cases, at other
ishmds in these seas, anil it had always been attended with
tlie desired success ; in fact, it would be difficult to point out
any other mode of procecdini^ on these emergencies likely to
attain die object in view.

" We had reason to suppose that the kintj and his attend-
ants had lied when the alarm was first given ; in that case it
was Captain Cook's intention to secure the large canoes
which were hauled up on the beach. He left the ship about
seven o'clock, attenued by the lieutenant of marines, a ser-
g(\'int, corporal, and seven private men ; the pinnace's crew
were also armed, and under the command of Mr. Roberts.
As 'they row^il towards the shore Captain Cook ordered the
launch to leave her station at the west point of the bay, in
order to assist his own boat. 'J'his is a circumstance woriiiy
of notice, for it clearly shows that he was not unapprehensive
of meetim^ with resistance from the natives, or unmindful of
the necessary preparation for the safety of himself and his
people. I will venture to say that, from the appearance of
things just at that time, there was not one beside himself wiio
judged that such precaution was absolutely requisite ; so
little did his conduct on the occasion bear the marks of rash-
ness or a precipitate self-confiilence. He landed with the
marines at the upper end of the town of Kavaroah ; the In-
dians immediately flocked around as usual, and showed him
the customary marks of respect, by prostrating themselves
before him. There were no signs of hostilities, or much
alarm among them. Captain Cook, however, did not seem
willing to trust to appearances, but was particularly attentive
to the disposition of the marines, and to have them kept clear
of the crowd. He first inquired for the king's sons, two
youths who were much attached to him, and generally his
companions on board. Messengers being sent for them,
they soon came to him, and informing him that their fadier
was asleep at a house not far from them, he accompanied
them thither, and took the 'marines along with them. As he
passed along the natives everywhere prostrrted themselves
before him, and seemed to have lost no part of that respect
they had always shown to his person. He was joined by
several chiefs, among whom was Kanynah, and his brother,
Koohovvrooah. They kept the crowd in order, according to

CAPTAIN COOKS V'OYACKS.

117

their usual custom ; and, bciiiL,^ ii^niorant of liis Intention in
comin^t;^ on shore, frecjuently asketl him if he wanted any lioi^^s
or other provisions ; he told tiiem that he did not, and that
his business was to see the kin^. Wiien he arrived at tht!
house, he ordered some of tlie Indians to «^o in and inform
Kariopoo that lie waited \ idiout to speak with him. They
came out two or tliree times, and insttrail of returninj^ any
answer from the king, presented some pit.ces of red cloth to
him, which made Captain Cook suspect tliat lie was not in the
house; he therefore desired the lieuttMiant of marines to «;o
in. The lieutenant found the old man just awakened from
sleep, and seemini^Iy alarmed at the messaj^e, but he came out
without hesitation. Captain Cook took him by the hand and
in a friendly way asked him to ijo on board, to which he very
readily consented. Thus far matters appeared in a favorable
train, and the natives tlid not seem much alarmed or appre-
hensive of hostility on our side, at which Captain Cook ex-
pressed himself a little surprised, sayiui; that as the inhabitants
of that town appeared innocent of stealinnr the cutter, he
should not molest them, but that h<; must get the king on
board. Kariopoo sat down before his door, and was sur-
rounded by a great crowd; Kaiiynah and his brother were
both very active in keeping order among them. In a litde
time, however, the Indians were observed arming themselves
with loiig spears, clubs, and daggers, and putting on thick
mats, which they use as armor. Tiiis hostile appearance in-
creased, and became more alarming on the arrival of two
men in a canoe from the opposite side of the bay, with the
news of a chief, called Karemoo, having been killed by one
of the Discovery's boats. ,In their passage across they had
also delivered this account to each of the ships. Upon that
information, the women, who were sitting upon the beach at
their breakfasts, and conversing familiarly with our people in
the boats, retired, and a confused murmur spread through the
crowd. An old priest came to Captain Cook with a cocoanut
in his hand, which he held out to him as a present, at the
same time singing very loud. He was often desired to be
silent, but in vain ; he continued importunate and trouble-
some, and there was no such thing as getting rid of him or
his noise. It seemed as if he meant to divert their attention
from his countrymen, who were growing more tumultuous,
and arming themselves in every quarter. Captain Cook,

ti8

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

I^i

beinjj at the same time surrounded by a j^rcat crowd, thouj^dit
his situation rather hazardous ; he therefore ordered the li(!u-
tcnant of marines to march his small party to the water-side,
whvTe the boats hiy within a few yards of the sliore. The
Iniiians readily mad(; a lane for them to pass and ilid not
offer to interrupt them. The distance they had Ut ^o mij^ht
be about fifty or sixty yarils ; Captain Cook followed, havinjr
hold o< Kariopoo's haiul. who accompanitid him very willinoly.
He Wi... attended by his wife, two sons, and several chiefs.
The troublesome old priest followeil, makinj^ the same savaj^c
noise. Keowa, the younj^er son, went directly into the |)in-
nace, expectini^ his father to follow ; but just as he arrived
at the water-side, his wife threw Iut arms about his neck, and,
with the assistance of two chiefs, forced him to sii down by
the side of a double canoe. Captain Cook expostul.ited with
them, but to no purpose; they would not suffer the kin^r to
proceed, tellint,^ him that hr. would b(* i)ut to death if he
went on boanl the ship. Kariopoo, whose conduct stummed
entirely resigned to the will of others, hun<j down his head,
and appearixl much distressed.

" While the kins^ was in this sit'iation, a chief, well known
to us, of the name of Coho, was ooserved lurking near with
an iron da<j;;i:;^er partly concealed under his cloak, seemingly
with the intention of slabbin*^ Captain Cook or the lieutenant
of marines. The latter proposed to fire at him, but Captain
Cook would not permit it. Coho closin«( upon them, obi ijjed
the officer to strike him with his piece, which made him retire.
Another Indian laid hold of the ser<;(;ani's musket, and en-
tleavored to wrench it from him, but was prevented by the
lieutenant's makinji^ a blow at him. Captain Cook, seeing
the tumult increase, and the Indians growing more darin^^and
resolute, observed that if he were to take the king off by force
he could not do it without sacrificing the lives of many of
his people. He then paused a little, and was on the point
of giving his orders to re-embark when a man threw a stone
at him, which he returned with a discharge of small shot.
The man, having a thick mat before him, received litde or
no hurt; he brandished his spear, and threatened to dart it
at Captain Cook, who being still unwilling to take away his
life, instead of firing with ball knocked him down with his
musket. He expostulated strongly with the most forward of
the crowd upon their turbulent behavior. He had given up

-'"^m.

fAITA.N COOK S VOYAGES.

IIQ

all thouji^hts of jrettin}^ the kinjr on hoard, as it appeared im-
|)racticable, and lus care was then only to act on tlie defensive,
and to secure a safe embarkation for his small party, which
was closely pressed by a body of sevtrral thousand people.
Keowa, the kind's son, who was in tlu* pinnace, beinj^ alarmed
on heariii}^ the first flrin}^^ was, at his own entreaty, |)ut on
sliore attain ; for evt^n at that time, Mr. Rolx.'rts. who com-
niancUnl her, did not appreiutnd that Captain Cook's person
was in any danger, otherwistr he would have detained the
prince, which, no doubt, would have Ix.'en a j^^n-at clutck on
the Indians. One man was ()bserv<;d bc^iiind a double canoe,
in the action of dartin^,^ his sjxar at Captain Cook, who was
forced to fire at him in his own dc^firncc!, but hapixtnetl to kill
another close to him etpialiy forward in the timiult; the ser-
jjeant observinjj^ that lu; had missed the man he aimed at,
received orders to fire at him, which he did, and kill(;d him.
By this time the imp(;tuosity of the Indians was somewhat re-
])ressed ; they fell back in a body and s(;eined stajji^L^ered, but
beint( pushed on by those behind, they returned to the charge,
and poured a volley of stones amonjj^ the marines, who, with-
out waitinjr for orders, returned it witii a j^eneral dischar^^^e; of
musketry, which was instantly followed by a fire from the
boats. At this Captain Cook was h(;ard to express his
astonishment; he wavttd his hand to the boats, caih-d to
them to cease firing, and to come nearer in to receive the
marines.

" Mr. Roberts immediately brouj^ht the pinnace as close to
the shore as he could without j^roundincr, notwithstandini^ the
showers of stones that fell among the pctople ; but, the lieuten-
ant, who commanded in the launch, instead of pulling in to the
assistance of Cnptain Cook, withdrew his boat farther off at the
moment that everything seems to have depended upon the
timely e.xertions of those in the boats. By his own account
he mistook the signal, but be that as it may, this circumstance
appears to me to have decided the fatal turn of the affair, and
to havfe removed every chance which remained with Captain
Cook of escaping with his life. The business of saving the
marines out of the water, in consequence of that, fell alto-
gether upon the pinnace, which thereby became so much
crowded that the crew were, in a great measure, prevented
from using their firearms, or giving what assistance they
otherwise might have done to Captain Cook, so that he seems

120

ANTARCTIC KXPI.OKATlONS.

1 : :!!'

at Ju! most critical point of time to have wanted the assist-
ance of both boats, owin<r to tlie n-nioval of the hiundi.
For, notwilhstanilin)^ that they kept up a tire on ilie crowd
from the situation to wliicli lliey removed in that Ijoat, tlie
fatal confusion which cnsueil on lu!r beinj; withdrawn, to say
the least of it, must have prevented the full effect, that the
prompt co-operation of the two boats accordin^^ to Captain
Cook's onlers must have had towards the pres(rrvation of
himself ami his people. At that time it was to th<r bt)ats
alone that Captain Cook had to look for his safety ; for, when
the marines had hred, the Indians rushed amon<^^ them, and
forced them into the water, where four of them were killed;
their lieutenant was wounded, but fortunately escaped and
was taken up by the pinnace. Captain Cook was then tiie
only one remaininij on the rock ; he was observed making
for tin; pinnace holdinj^ his left hand aj^ainst the back cl his
head to j^uard it from the stones, and carryinj^^ his musket
under the other arm. An Indian was seen followinj^^ him, but
with caution and timidity; for he stopped once or twic(; as if
undetermined to proceed. At last he advanced upon him
unawares, and with a lari^e club, or common stake, ^^ave him
a blow on the back of the head, and then precij?itately re-
treated. The stroke seemed to have stunned Captain Cook ;
he stai^^jTcred for a few paces, then fell on his hand and one
knee and dropped his musket. As he was rising^, and before
he could recover his feet, another Inilian stabbed him in the
back of the neck with an iron daj^gcr. He then fell into a
pool of water about knee-deep, where others crowded upon
him and endeavored to keep him under; but struj^j^linji^ very
strongly with th^m he got his head up, and casting his look
towards the pinnace seemed to solicit assistance. Though
the boat was not above five or six yards distant from him, yet
from the crowded and confused state of the crew it seimis
it was not in their power to save him. The Indians got him
under again but in deeper water; he was, however, able to
get his head up once more, and being almost spent in the
struggle he naturally turned to the rock, and was endeavor-
ing to support himself by it when a savage gave him a blow
with a club and he was seen alive no more. They hauled
him up lifeless on the rocks, where they seemed to take a
savage pleasure in using every barbarity to his dead body,
snatching the daggers out of each other's hands to have the

CAITAIN COOKS VDYAGES.

121

horrid satisfaction of pit-rcinL; the fallen victim of their bar-
barous ni'^i'..

" 1 \U'vi\ make no reflection on the threat loss we siifferctl on
tiiis occasion, or attempt to describe wliat we fc:lt. It is rnouj^di
to say th.it no man was ever more beloved or admired ; anil
it is truly painful to rell(;ct that he seems to have fallen a
sacrihci? merirly for want of beinj^ pro|)tTly sui)portt:d; a fate
sini;ularly to be lamented as having' fallen to his lot, who had
ever be(!n conspicuous for his care of those under his com-
mand, and who st-t^med to the last to pay as much attention
to thtnr presc.Tvalion as to that of his own life.

" if am thinir could have; added to the shame and indij^nation
universally felt on this occasion, it was U) find that his rt.'inains
had been d(,'serted and left expos(;d on tlu: beach, although
they mij^ht have been broui^ht off. It appears from the in-
formation of four or five midshipuKMi, who arrivi:d on the
spot at the conclusion of the fatal business, that the beach was
then almost entirely desertetl by the Indians, who at lenj^th
had j;iv(;n way to the fire of the boats, and dispersed throui^di
the towns, so that there seemed no threat obstacle to prevent
the recovery of Captain Cook's body ; but the lieutenant re-
turned on board without makini^- tlu; attempt. It is unneces-
sary to dwell lonj^er on this painful subject, and to relate the
complaints and censures that fell on tiie c( iiduct of the lieu-
tenant. It will be sufficient to observe that they wefe so
loud as to oblij^e Captain Clerke publicly to notice them, and
to take the depositions of his accusers down in writinL,^ The
captain's bad state of health and approaching dissolution, it is
supposed, induced him to destroy these papers a Si. >n time
before his death.

"It is a painful task to be oblin^ed to notice circumstances
which seem to reflect upon the character of any man. A
strict regard to truth, however, compelled me to the insertion
of these facts, which I have offered merely as facts without
presuming^ to connect with them any comment of my own,
esteeming it a part of a faithful historian * to extenuate noth-
ing, nor set down aught in malice.'

"The fatal accident happened at eight o'clock in the morn-
ing, about an hour after Captain Cook landed. It did not
seem that the king or his sons were witnesses to it; but
it is supposed that they withdrew in thr midst of the tumult.
The principal actors were the other chiefs, many of them the

•

122

ANTARCTIC KXPLORATIONS.

ii,n

iif m

kingr's relations and attendants ; the man who stabbed him
with the dai,fger was called Nooah. I happened to be the
only one who recollected his person, from having on a former
occasion mentioned his name in a journal I kept. I was in-
duced to take particular notice of him, more from his personal
appearance than any other consideration, though he was of
high rank; and a near relation of the king; he was stout and
tall, with a fierce look and demeanor, and one who united in
his figure the two qualities of strength and agility, in a greater
degree, than ever I remembered to have seen before in any
other man. His age might be about thirty, and by the white
scurf on his skin and iiis fore eyes he appeared to be a hard
drinker of Kava. He was a constant companion of the king,
with whom I first saw him, when he paid a visit to Captain
Gierke. The chief who first struck Captain Cook with the
club was called Karimano, craha, but I did not know him by
his name. These circumstances I learnt of honest Kaireekea,
the priest ; who added that they were both held in great
esteem on account of that action ; neither of them came near
us afterwar Is. When the boats left the shore the Indians
carried away the dead body of Captain Cook and those of
the marines to the rising ground at the back of the town,
where we could plainly see them with our glasses from the
ships.

"This most melancholy accident appears to have been alto-
gether unexpected and unforeseen, as well on the part of the
natives as ourselves. I never saw sufficient reason to induce
me to believe that there was anything of design or a pre-
concerted plan on their side, or that they purposely sought
to quarrel with us ; thieving, which gave rise to the whole,
they were equally guilty of in our first and second visits.
It was the cause of every misunderstanding that happened
between us ; their petty thefts were generally overlooked, but
sometimes slightly punished; the boat, which they at last
ventured to take away, was an object of no small magnitude
to people in our situation, who could not possibly replace her,
and therefore not slightly to be given up. We had no other
chance of recovering her, but by getting the person of the
king into our possession; on our attempting to do that the
natives became alarmed foi' his safety, and naturally opposed
those whom they deemed their enemies. In the sudden con-
flict that ensued we had the unspeakable misfortune of losing

CAPTAIN COOK S VOYAGES.

^23

abbed him

to be the
Dii a former
. I was in-
lis personal

he was of
IS stout and
ho united in
in a greater
efore in any
by the white
to be a hard
, of the king.
t to Captain
00k with the
know him by
St Kaireekea,
leld in great
;m came near
t the Indians
and those of

of the town,
sses from the

ive been alto-
le part of the
son to induce
gn or a pre-
posely sought
to the whole,
second visits,
lat happened
^erlooked, but
I they at last
lall magnitude
y replace her,
had no other
person of the
to do that the
-jrally opposed
le sudden con-
rtune of losing

our excellent commander, in the manner already related. It
is *n this light the affair has always appeared to me as entirely
accidental, and not in the least owing to any previous offence
received, or jealousy of our second visit entertained by the
natives.

•' Pareah seems to have been the principal instrument in
bringing about this fatal disaster. We learnt afterwards that
it was he who had employed some people to steal the boat ;
the king did not seem to be privy to it, or even apprized of
what had happened till Captain Cook landed.

" It was generally remarked that at first the Indians showed
great resolution in facing our fire-arms, but it was entirely
owing to ignorance of their effect. They thought that their
thick mats would defend them from a ball as well as from a
stone ; but being soon convinced of their error, yet still at a
loss to account how such execution was done amontr them,
they had recourse to a stratagem which, though it answered
no other purpose, served to sliow their ingenuity and quick-
ness of invention. Observing the flashes of the muskets they
naturally concluded that water would counteract their effect,
and therefore very sagaciously dipped their mats, or armor, in
the sea, just as they came on to face our people ; but finding
this last resource to fail them they soun dispersed and left the
beach entirely clear. It was an object they never neglected,
even at the greatest hazard, to carry off their slain ; a custom
probably owing to the barbarity with which they treat the
ch'ad body of an enemy and the trophies they make of his
bones."

In consequence of this barbarity of disposition the whole
remains of Captain Cook could not be recovered. For,
though every exertion was made for that purpose, though ne-
gotiations and threatenings were alternately employed, little
more than the principal part of his bones (and that with
great difficulty) could be procured. By the possession of them
they were enabled to perform the last offices to their eminent
and unfortunate commander. The bones, having been put
into a coffin and the service being read over them, were com-
mitted to the deep on the 21st with the usual military honors.
What were the feelings of the companies of both the ships
on this occasion must be left to the world to conceive, for
those who were present know that it is not in the power of
any pen to express them.

« !

-■I

i < I.

124

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

•' ' ?l.

A proniotion of officers followed the decease of Captain
Cook. Captain Clerke having succeeded of course to the
command of the expedition removed on board the Resolution.
By him Lieutenant Gore was appointed captain of the Dis-
covery.

The war of Enqfland agfainst the American colonies havino-
broken out in the meantime, Dr. Benjc*min Franklin, then
ambassador at Paris from the United States of America, is-
.uied the following requisition :

"To all captains and commanders of armed ships, acting
by commission from the Congress of the United States of
America, now in war with Great Britain.

" Gentlemen :- — A ship having been fitted out from England
before the commencement of this war to make discoveries of
new countries in unknown seas, under the conduct of that
most celebrated navigator and discoverer Captain Cook ; an
undertaking truly laudable in itself, as the increase of geo-
graphical knowledge facilitates the communication between
distant nations in the exchange of useful products and manu-
factures, and thv'i extension of arts, whereby the common en-
joyments of human life are multiplied and augmented, and
science of other kinds increased to the benefit of mankind in
general. This is therefore most earnestly to recommend to
every on.e of you that in case the said ship, which is now ex-
pected to be soon in the European seas on her return, should
happen to fall into your hands, you would not consider her as
an enemy, nor suffer any plunder to be made of the effects
contained in her, nor obstruct her immediate return to Eng-
land by detaining her, or sending her into any other part of
Europe, or to America, but that you would treat the said Cap-
tain Cook and his people with all civility and kindness, afford-
ing them, as common friends to mankind, all the assistance in
your power which they may happen to stand in need of. In
so doing you will not only gratify the generosity of your own
dispositions, but there is no doubt of your obtaining the ap-
probatio 1 of the Congress and your other American owners.
I have he honor to be, gentlemen, your most obedient,
humble servant, " B. Franklin,

" Minister Plenipotentiary from the Congress of the United
States at the Court of France.

•'At Passy, near Paris, this loth day of March, 1779."

C APIA IX COOKS VOYAGES.

125

ase of Captain

course to the

the Resolution.

lin of the Dis-

colonies having-
Franklin, then
of America, is-

cd ships, actin,i(
nited States of

It from En,ij;land
:e discoveries of
conduct of that
iptain Cook ; an
increase of geo-
»icarion between
ducts and manu-
the common en-
laugmented, and
It of mankind in
D recommend to
which is now ex-
er return, should
; consider her as
:le of the effects
return to Eng-
ny other part of
:at the said Cap-
kindness, afford-
the assistance in
d in need of. In
&ity of your own
)btaining the ap-
merican owners,
most obedient,
B. Franklin,
ss of the United

Irch, 1779'"

After the death of Captain Cook Captain Clerke further
explored the Sandwich Islands, and large additions of what-
ever relates to the knowledge of their productions and in-
habitants obtained. Kamtschatka was visited, and a very
friendly intercourse maintained with the Russian officers of
that country. The navigators experienced the most generous
and hospitable treatment from Major Behm in particular, the
commander of the garrison at Holcharetsk. They proceeded
to the north in pursuit of the grand object of the expedition.
I laving passed through Hehring Strait, and attained to some-
thing more than sixty-nine degrees and a half of northern
latitude, they found it absolutely impossible to penetrate
diruugh the ice, either on the side of America or on the side
of Asia. Every hope being excluded of accomplishing this
way a passage into the Adantic ocean, Captain Clerke was
obliged to come to the determination of sailing back to the
southward. On the 22d of August, 1779, being less than a
month after this determination, the captain died of consump-
tion. Captain Gore succeeded to the command of the Dis-
covery. A second visit was paid to Kamtschatka, by which a
further acquaintance was gained with that part of the world ;
and no small accession of information was acquired with re-
spect to geographical science in general. They pursued their
course by the coasts of Japan and China; they made some
stay at Canton ; thence they proceeded to the Cape of Good
Hope. They came to an anchor at Stromness on the 2 2d of
May, 1780. Both ships arrived safe at the Nore on the 4th
of October after an absence of four years, two months, and
twenty-two days. During the whole of the undertaking the
Resolution lost only five men by sickness, three of whom were
in a precarious state of health at their departure from Eng-
land, while the Discovery did not lose a single man.

"The constitution of Captain Cook's body was robust, in-
ured to labor, and capable of undergoing the severest hard-
ships. His stomach bore without difficulty the coarsest and
most ungrateful food : great was the indifference with which
he submitted to every kind of self-denial. The qualities of
his mind were of the same hardy, vigorous kind with those of
his body. His understanding was strong and perspicacious.
His judgment, in whatever related to the services he was en-
gaged in, quick and sure. His designs were bold and manly;
and both in the conception and in the mode of execution

11 :
1

126

ANIAKCnc KXI'I.OKAIIONS.

fiii* ;

i .

1 i

liorc cviih nt marks of a j^rcal orii^inal ^cuiiis. I lis n)ura};»'
was cool aiul (IcU'iiniMcd, aiul accoinpaiiicd witli an adinii.ihlc
pr('s<MU"i' of miiul in ihc momcnl ol «lani^rr. I lis Uinprr
iniijlu perhaps liavc lu'cn jiislly MaiiUMi as snhjrct to liasti
ncss and passion, IkuI m»t thcsf hccn ilisanncd hy a disjtosi
lion the most Iumu'VoIciU aiul Inimanc

"Siuh wcrr liu* oullincs ol Captain Cook's < liaractcr ; i ut
its mosl tlislin^nishini^ Ic.iturc was that unnMnittinjL; prrsc-
vcramc in the pursuit of his ohjcrt, which was not oidy su-
perior tt> the o|)posilion ol* danj^ers and the pressure of hard
ships, but even exempt lr«)m the want ol ordinary re laxation.
nurin«' the lonsj anil tedious vovaecs in whi«"h he was eiu'ai-ed
his eai4<Mness aiul activity were never in the hast ahated.
No iiu idental li'inpiation could detain him lor a monunt ;
even those inlt'rvais ol recreation, which sometinus unavoid-
ably occurred, aiul were looked lor by us with a lon-^ini^, that
persons who have ex|)erienceil the lati^ues ol service will
reailily excuse, were submitted to by him with a certain im
patii'uce, whenever they could not be employed in makiiiii a
lurther provision lor llu^ more ellectual j)roseculion ol his
designs.

"The character of Captain Cook," says Mr, Samwell, "will
be best exemplilied by the services he has performed, whi( h
are universally known, and have rankeil his nanu! above that
of anv navigator of ancient or of modi'rn times. Nature had
ondowi'd him with a mind vii^orous aiul comprehensive, which
in his ri|>er years he had cultivated with cart! and industry.
His ircneral knowleib't* was extensive and various: in that
of his own profession he was unetjualled. With a clear judj^-
ment, stroiit; masculine sense, antl the most delermin<'d reso-
lution ; widi a j^enius peculiarly turned lor eiUer|)rise, he
pursued his object with unshaken perseveranc(! : vii;ilant and
active in an eminent *.l(\oree ; cool and intrepid among daii-
j;ers ; patient and firm under difficulties anti distress ; fertile
in expedients ; great and original in all his designs ; active
and resolv'.^d in carrying them into execution. These (juali-
tics rendered him the animating spirit of the expedition : in
every situation he stood unrivalled and alone ; on him all
eyes were turned ; he was our leading star, which, at its set-
ting, left us involved in darkness and despair.

•* His constitution was strong, his mode of living temperate.
He was a modest man, and rather bashful ; of an agreeable

(AIMAIN <()(>KS V()VA(;KS.

127

Ills toura^''

an ;ulnui.>)>l<'

I lis l<-m|"r

ijrct 10 liiisli

by a tlisposi

harart<M-; 'out

nitliiiK 1»<'>"^<*-
s iu)l only sn
•ssnrc ol banl
aiy r< laxation.
V vvas «ni:a;4r(l
« least abatt'il.
lor a inoiivnt ;
timrs nnavoMl-
a loiij^iivu, lli;^^
(>r stMviif will
\ a ((Miain iin
il in nialon.i: a
>sccnti«)n ol l»is

Sanuvrll. " will
•rlornu'd, whiili
anu- above that
s. Nature luul
[chcnsivr, which
Ir anil inilusiry.
larious: in that
ih a cU-ar ]\h\^-
lenninctl rcso-
entt'iprise, he
•(' : vij^ilant ami
lid amonj; 'lan-
lilistrcss; forlilo
|clcsi«,nis ; active
These (luali-
cxpedition: in
ine; on him all
'hich, at its set-
lying temperate.
)f an agreeable

lively

conversation, scnsibh* an<l nrK'ilii'cn

It. In I

lis temper

\\r. was somewhat hasty, i)Ut o( a disposition the most irieiully,

K'lievo

hiKJ

h. atx

lent,
1 ll

aiK

1 humane. I lis person was above six leet

loui'h a I'ood loo

kii

1^ III. Ill, he wa

ilain

b<»tl

\ ill

address and a|>peaian( e. I hi* head was small ; his hair,
which w.is a dark brown, he wore ti<(l behind. Mis la« c was
lull ol «'Xpre;sion ; his nose exteedin^ly well shaped; his
eyes, whit :h werir small and ol a brown <asl, were (piiik and

|)iercm^^; his <"ye-l)rows prominent, whuh j.;av<! his (ounttv
nance altotM-tlutr an air of austerity.

" lie was beIov<M| by his |)eo|(|r, who looked up to him aM
to a r.iliuM*, and obeyed his (ommands with aku rity. The
coiilidence we placed in him was unreinittiii;.', ; our admiration

of his jL^reat talents unboim

(h-d

our este<:in

lor 1

us L'00(

(pialities alleclionate and simcrc

1 1(^ was remai'l-cably disiinL,niislu'd for tin; activity of his
id: it vvas that which <'nabled him to p.iy an unw(!aried

mint

attention to ev(M'y object of the service. liie siri< t economy
h<! ol)serv(^d in iIk; expiMidilun; of iIk- ship's stores, and the
unremitting car<; he <;m|»loyed for the |)res(;rvalion of th<;
health of his people, w(!re the causes tliat <;nabled him to
prosecntir discoverii^s in r(!mote j)arls of the glob", for such a
iiMigth of time as hail been deemed imprac :li( .iblc by former
navigators. TIk! m«:tIiod he discovered for preserving tiie
htsdth of seamen in long voyag'^s, will transmit iiis name to
posterity as the lri«;nd and beiielaclor of mankind ; the succf.'ss
which att<'n(led it, afford(;d this truly great man mor*; satisfac-
tion than the distinguishe(| fame that atten(l(;d his discoveries.
*' I^nglaiul has biten unanimous in her tribut(.' of applause
to his virtues, and all ICurop't has born(; testimony to his
merit. There is hardly a corner of the earth, howc^ver re-
mote and .savage, that will not long remember his benevo-
lence and humanity. Th(^ grat(;ful Indian, in time to come,
pointing to the herds grazing his f(;rtile plains, will re^te to
his chiklren how th(; first stock of them vvas introduced into
the country ; and the name of C(K)k will be remembered

. whom thev worsl *

among

>pii

of every good, and the fountain of every blessing.

'>i

chaiti-:k VI.

■E 1 '

fj:

■V Jl

THE UNTTF.n STATKS ANTAK( lie r.XIM.OKIN.; KXTKHITKIN UNDF.H
TllK COMMAND Ol' LIKIJI KNAN I' ( IIAKI.KS WII.KKS, V. S. N.

Iiislnictioiis of ilu> Navy ncparlniciit (<» I.ioutonrtiil Wilkes — l)i'|inrlurc from ilie I'liitrd
States— An iv.il iit i''iiiu'hal, on tlie Isle of Matleira — 'I'lic .S<|ua<lro;i Sails from Mn<leira
— Arrival at St. ]aj;ii — I'oilo I'raya— Arrival at Uio laneiro— Tlie City of Kio Janeiro—
Passiujj; Cape Horn — Anchoring in Orange Ilarbur — I'repnralioiis for n Short Cruise to
tl>e Anlaretic Sea.

In ilio year 1838 llu; i^^ovommcnt of tlu; United Statt^s of
North Aiiu'rica sent out an cxplorinir cxjx'ilition unilor llu;
coninianil of Lieutenant Ciiarlcs Wilkes of the United States
Navy, who received tlie following instructions:

" NaVV nr.PAKTMKNT, AHQUst ll///, 1 83S.

"Sir: — The Congress of the United States, liaving in view
the inijiortant interests of our commerce embarked in the
whale-fisheries, and other adventures in the great Southern
Ocean, by an act of the i8th of May, 1836, authorized an ex-
pedition to be fitted out for the purpose of exploring and sur-
veying that sea, as well to determine the existence of all
doubtful islands and shoals, as to discover and accurately lix
the posiiion of those which lie in or near the track of our
vessels in that quarter, and may have escaped the observa-
tion of scientific navigators. Liberal appropriations liave
been made for the attainment of these objects, and the Presi-
dent, reposing great confidence in your courage, capacity, and
zeal, has appointed you to the command of the expedition,
requiring you to proceed to the performance of the duties of
that station with the vessels placed under your orders, con-
sisting of the sloops of war Vincennes and Peacock, the ship
Relief, the brig Porpoise, and tenders Sea-Gull and Flying-
Fish.

"As soon as these vessels are in every respect ready, you
will accordingly take your departure from Norfolk, and shape
your course to Rio Janeiro, crossing the line between longi-
tude 18° and 22° W., and keeping within those meridians to
(128)

:< H

Wfl.KKS ANTAIU ri' rXI'KIHTION.

129

•.S, V. S. N.

c fn.m ilio l'ni«Ml
Sails Iroiu M;»<1«'>'''»
ly of Kio Jancivo—
,r a Sh.dt Cruise to

tccl States of
on unclor tlu:
Unitctl Stat.'s

)ect ready, you

folk, and shape

[between longi-

16 meridians to

about latitude 10" S., with a view to dctcrmino the cxistcnro
of certain r'/^'/V?.? or slioals laid down in the cliarts as <io»d>tfiiI,
and whose position, sliould tlicy h(; found to exist, it is
deemed useful to the interests of our comuK^rce to ascertain.
"At Rio Janeiro you will replenish your supplies, takinjj
special care to furnish yours(!lf with a sufficiency of all those
articK'S which are considered the best j)r(^ventives and n.-mc-
dies for the scurvy. You will detf^rmine th(! lonj^'itude of
that plac(!, as W(rll as of Cape I'Vio ; aft(T which, you will
either detach a vessel, or proceed with your whole scpiadron,
to make a particular (examination of Rio Negro, which falls
into the South AUantic about latitude; 41° S., with a view to
ascertain its resources and faciliti(!s for trade.

" Havinj^ completed this surv(;y, you will proceed to a safe
j)ort or ports in Terra tl(;l l^'uej^o, wln.-rc; tlie members of the
scientific corps may hav<; favoral)i(e oj)j)ortuniti(;s of prosecu-
ting^ their research<'s. Leavini,' the; larijtT vess(;ls securely
moored, and the officers and crews o(cui)i('d in their resp(;c-
fivc duties, you will proceed willi tJK; brii^ Porpoise, and the
tend(!rs, to (explore the southern Antarctic, to th(; southward
of I'oweil's (iroup, and betwe(;n it and Sandwicli l-and, fol-
lowiu!^ tlu; track of \V(;ddell as closely as practicable, and en-
(Iteavorinir to r(;ach a hii^di soutli(;rn latitude ; takinj^ care,
however, not to be oblii^ed to pass the winter there, and to
rejoin tlu; other vessels b(;tween the middle of February and
b'ginninir of March. The att(;ntion of the officers left at
Terra del Fu(iij^o, will, in the m(;an time, l)e specially directed
to makinjj sucli accurate and particular examinations and sur-
veys of the bays, ports, inlets, and sounds, in that rej^ion, as
may verify or extend those of Captain King, and be service-
able in future to vessels engaged in the whale-fisheries, in
their outward and homeward-bound passages.

"You will then, on lejoining the vessels at Terra del
Fuego, with all your squadron, stretch towards the southward
and westward as far as the Ne Plus Ultra of Cook, or longi-
tude 105° W., and return northward to Valparaiso, where a
store-ship will meet you in the month of March, 1839. P''o-
ceeding once more from that port, you will direct your course
to the Navigator's Group, keeping to the southward of the
place of departure, in order to verify, if possible, the existence
of certain islands and shoals, laid down in the charts as doubt-
ful, and if they exist, to determine their precise position, as

j ;■

ISO

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

well as that of all others which may be discovered in this un-
frequented track. When you arrive in those latitudes where
discoveries may be reasonably anticipated, you will so dis-
pose your vessels as that they shall sweep the broadest ex-
panse of the ocean that may be practicable, without danger
of parting company, lying-to at night in order to avoid the
chance of passing any small island or shoal without detection.

*' It is presumed you will reach the Navigator's Group some
time in June, 1839. You will survey this group and its har-
bors, with all due care and attention. If time will permit, it
will be well to visit the Society Islands, and examine Eimeo,
which, it is stated, possesses a convenient harbor.

" From the Navigator's Group you will proceed to the
Feejee Islands, which you will examine with particular atten-
tion, with a view to the selection of a safe harbor, easy of ac-
cess, and in every respect adapted to the reception of vessels
of the United States engaged in the whale-fishery, and the
general commerce of these seas ; it being the intention of the
government to keep one of the squadron of the Pacific cruis-
ing near these islands in future.

"After selecting the island and harbor best adapted to the
purposes in view, you will use your endeavors to make such
arrangements as will insure a supply of fruits, vegetables, and
fresh provisions, to vessels visiting it hereafter, teaching the
natives the modes of cultivation, and encouraging them to
raise hogs in greater abundance.

"These objects will, it is presumed, orciipy you until the
latter end of October ; and when p,tcained as far as may be
possible, you will proceed to the port of Sydney, where ade-
quate supplies may be obtained. From thence you will make
a second attempt to penetrate within the Antarctic region,
south of Van Diemen's Land, and as far west as longitude
45° E., or to Enderby's Land, making your rendezvous on
your return at Kerguelen's Land, or the Isle of Desolation.
as it is now usually denominated, and where you will proba
bly arrive by the latter end of March, 1840.

" From the Isle of Desolation you will proceed to the Sand-
wich Islands, by such route as you may judge best, from the
information you may acquire from such sources as fall in
your way.

"A store-ship from the United Statec will meet you thfere,
with a supply of provisions, in the month of April, 1840.

WILKES ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION.

I3»

sd in this un-
:itudes where

will so dis-
broadest ex-
idiout danger

to avoid the
out detection,
s Group some
p and its har-
will permit, it
amine Eimeo,

or.

roceed to the
irticular atten-
,or, easy of ac-
jtion of vessels
ishery, and the
intention of the
lie Pacific cruis-

adapted to the
\s to make such
vegetables, and
er, teaching the
raging them to

y you until the
,s far as may be
ney, where ade-
e you will make
Antarctic region,
;st as longitude

rendezvous on
of Desolation.

you will proba

-ed to the Sand-

^ best, from the

irces as fall in

leet you thfere.
Lpril, 1840.

"Thence you will direct your course to the Northwest
Coast of America, making such surveys and examinations,
first of the territory of the United States on the sea-board,
and of the Columbia river, and afterwards along the coast of
California, with special reference to the Bay of San Francisco,
as you can accomplish by the month of October following
your arrival.

•• You will then proceed to the coast of Japan, taking in
your route as many doubtful islands as possible ; and you
have permission to pass through the Straits of Sangar into
the Sea of Japan, where you lay spend as much time as is
compatible with your arrival at the proper season in the Sea
of Sooloo or Mindoro.

" Of this sea you will make a particular examination, with
a view to ascertain whether there is any safe route through it,
which will shorten the passage of our vessels to and from
China.

" It is enjoined on you to pay very particular attention to
this object, in order that you may be enabled to furnish sail-
ing instructions to navigators. It may be also advisable to
ascertain the disposition of the inhabitants of the islands of
this archipelago for commerce, their productions and re-
sources.

" Having completed this survey, you will proceed to the
Straits of Sunda, pass through the Straits of Billiton, which
you will examine, and thence to the port of Singapore, where
it is probable you may arrive about the beginning of April,
1841, and where you will meet a store-ship from the United
States.

" Having completed this service, it is presumed the objects
of your enterprise will be accomplished, and you will, accord-
ingly, after receiving your supplies at Singapore, return to the
United States by the Cape of Good Hope, taking such a
course as may be most likely to further the great purposes
of the expedition.

" During your stay in the southern latitudes, should the
dysentery or any other fatal epidemic make its appearance
among your crews, you have leave to proceed to the north-
ward, until the disease shall either disappear, or be so miti-
gated as to admit of the resumption of your surveys.

"The department does not feel the necessity of giving
any special directions for preserving the health of those

i ll

;W i

132

ANTAKCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

under your command, confidinqf in your own cxperlenco.
the care and procau lions of die able surij;^;ons with wlioin
you are provided, and in tiie conviction you must leel, that
on the heahh of your crews must depend the success of the
enterprise.

" In the prosecution of these lonq; and devious voya^res, you
will necessarily be placed in situations which cannot be antici-
pated, and in which, sometimes your own judji^ment and dis-
cretion, at others, necessity must be your i^uide. Amonir
savage nations, unacquainted with, or possessinj^ but vajjue
ideas of the rights of i)roperty, the most common cause of
collision with civilized visitors is the offence and the punish-
ment of theft. You will therefore adopt every possible pre-
caution against this practice, and in the recovery of the stolen
property, as well as in punishing the offender, use all due
moderation and forbearance.

" You will permit no trade to be carried on by the squadron
with the countries you .nay visit,* either civilized or savage,
except for necessaries or curiosities, and that under express
regulations established by yourself, in which the rights of
the natives must be scrupulously respected and carefully
guarded.

"You will neither interfere, nor permit any wanton inter-
ference with the customs, habits, manners, or prejudices of the
natives of such countries or islands as you may visit ; nor take
part in their disputes, except as a mediator ; nor commit any
act of hostility, unless in self-defence, or to protect or se-
cure the property of those under your command, or whom
circumstances may have placed within reach of your protec-
tion.

'* You will carefully inculcate on all the officers and men
under your command, that courtesy and kindness towards the
natives, which is understood and felt by all classes of man-
kind ; to display neither arrogance nor contempt, and to
appeal to their good-will rather than their fears, undl it shall
become apparent that they can only be restrained from vio-
lence by fear or force.

"You will, on all occasions, avoid risking the officers and
men unnecessarily on shore at the mercy of the natives.
Treachery is one of the invariable characteristics of savages
and barbarians ; and very many of the fatal disasters which
have befallen preceding navigators have arisen from too

WILKES ANTARCTIC EXPFDITION.

^33

jrreat a rdianco on savaj^e professions of friendship, or over-
weeninj^ confidence in themselves.

" Much of the charact<:r of our fiitun; intercourse with the
natives of th(^ hinds you may visit will dt.pend on the im-
pressions made on their minds by their first intercourse with
your vessels,

" It is the nature of the savaj^e \owr to remember ben(;fits.
and never to forj^et injuries; and you will use your best en-
deavors, wh(Tever you may j^o, to leave beliind a favorable
impression of your country and countrymen. The expedition
is not for conquest, but discovery. Its objects are all peace-
ful ; they are to extend the empire of commerce and science;
to diminish the hazards of the ocean, and point out to future
navigators a course by which they may avoid dangers and
find safety.

"An expedition so constituted, and for such purposes,
armed for defence, not conquest, and engaged in pursuits in
which all enlightened nations are equally interested, has a
right to expect the good-will and good offices of the wholt
civilized world. Should our country, therefore, be uniiappily
involved in war during your absence, you will refrain from all
acts of hostility whatever, as it is confidently believed none
will be committed against you. So far from this being the
case, it is not to be doubted that even hostile nations will
respect your purposes, and afford every facility to their
accomplishment.

'• Finally, you will recollect, that though you may frequently
be carried beyond the sphere of social life, and the restraints
of law, yet that the obligations of justice and humanity are
always and everywhere equally imperative in our intercourse
with men, and most especially savages ; that we seek them,
not they us ; and that if we expect to derive advantages
from the intercourse, we should endeavor to confer benefits
in return.

"Although the primary object of the expedition is the pro-
motion of the great interests of commerce and navigation, yet
you will take all occasions, not incompatible with the great
purposes of your undertaking, to extend the bounds of science,
and promote the acquisition of knowledge. For the more
successful attainment of these, a corps of scientific gentlemen,
consisting of the following persons, will accompany the expe-
dition, and are placed under your direction : Mr. Hale, phi-

' I

134

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

mi: .A'

lolopjist; Mr. Pickerinjj, Mr. Peale, naturalists; Mr. Couthouy,
conclioloj^ist ; Mr. Dana, niineraloj^ist ; Mr. Rich, botanist;
Mr. Drayton, Mr. Agate, draughtsmen; Mr. Brackenridge,
horticulturist.

" The hydrography and geography of the various seas and
countries you may visit in the route pointed out to you in the
preceding instructions, will occupy your especial attention ;
and all the researches connected with them, as well as with
astronomy, terrestrial magnetism, and meteorology, are con-
fided exclusively to the officers of the navy, on whose zeal and
talents the department confidendy relies for such results as
will enable future navigators to pass over the track traversed
by your vessels, without fear and without danger.

*• No special directions are thought necessary in regard to
the mode of conducting the scientific researches and experi-
ments which you are enjoined to prosecute, nor is it intended
to limit the members of the corps each to his own particular
service. All are expected to co-operate harmoniously in
those kindred pursuits, whose equal dignity and usefulness
should insure equal ardor and industry in extending their
bounds and verifying their principles.

"As guides to yourself and to the scientific corps, the de-
partment would, however, direct your particular attention to
the learned and comprehensive reports of a committee of the
American Philosophical Society of Philadelphia, the report of
a committee of the East India Marine Society, of Salem,
Massachusetts; and to a communication from the Naval
Lyceum of New York, which accompany, and are to be re-
garded as forming a part of these instructions, so far as they
may accord with the primary objects of the expedition and its
present organization. You will, therefore, allow the gende-
men of the scientific corps the free perusal of these valuable
documents, and permit them to copy such portions as they
may think proper.

"The Russian Vice-Admiral Krusenstern has transmitted
to the department memorandums relating to the objects of
thia expedition, together with the most approved charts of his
adas of the Pacific Ocean, with explanations. In three volumes.
These are also confided to your care ; and it is not doubted
that the friendly contributions of this distinguished navigator
will essentially contribute to the success of an enterprise in
which he takes so deep an interest.

'1 ! I

|ti,)

WILKES ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION.

»35

r. Couthouy,
ch, botanist ;
irackcnridgf,

ous seas and
to you in the
al attention ;
i well as with
ORy. are con-
hose zeal and
ich results as
ack traversed

y in regard to
iis and experi-
• is it intended
own particular
rmoniously in
md usefulness
xtending their

corps, the de-
ir attention to
mmittee of the
, the report of
ety, of Salem,
)m the Naval
are to be re-
so far as they
edition and its
3W the gende-
these valuable
)rtions as they

as transmitted
the objects of

id charts of his
three volumes,
is not doubted

ished navigator

n enterprise in

" You will prohibit all those under your command from
furnishing any persons not belonging to the expedition with
copies of any journal, charts, plan, memorandum, specimen,
drawing, painting, or information of any kind, which has refer-
ence to the objects or proceedings of the expedition.

" It being considered highly important that no journal of
these voyages, either partial or complete, should be published
without the authority and under the supervision of the gov-
ernment of the United States, at whose expense this expedi-
tion is undertaken, you will, before you reach the waters of
the United States, require from every person under your
command the surrender of all journals, memorandums, re-
marks, writings, drawings, sketciies, and paintings, as well as
all specimens of every kind, collected or prepared during
your absence from the United States.

"After causing correct inventories of these to be made and
signed by two commissioned officers, and by the parties by
whom they were collected or prepared, you will cause them
to be carefully sealed by the said officers and reserved for
such disposition as the department may direct.

"You will adopt the most effectual measures to ;--^pare
and preserve all specimens of natural history that may be
collected, and should any opportunities occur for sending
home by a vessel of war of the United States., copies of in-
formation, or duplicates of specimens, or any other material
you may deem it important to preserve from the reach of
future accident, you will avail yourself of the occasion, for-
warding as frequently as may be done with safety, details of
your voyage and its most material events, at the same time
strictly prohibiting all communications except to this depart-
ment, from any person attached to the expedition, referring
to discoveries, or any circumstances connected with the
progress of your enterprise.

" It is believed that the officers under your command require
no special advice or direction from this department. Bearing
in mind, as they no doubt will, that the undertaking which
they arc about assisting to accomplish, is one that necessarily
attracts the attention of the civilized world, and that the honor
and interests of their country are equally involved in its re-
sults, it is not for a moment doubted that on this occasion
they will so conduct themselves, as to add to the reputatioa
our navy has so justly acquif^id at home and abroad.

i) ' f ' *'

tu,

|| 1-

136

ANTAKCriC EXl'LORATIONS.

" With the best wishes for the success of the expecliiion,
and the safe return of yourself antl your companions,

" I am, very respectfully,
(Sii;necl) "J. K. Paulding.

"To LiKUTF.NANT .ClIARl.KS WlI.KKS,

" Commanding the Exploring and Surveying Expedition, etc."

Toirether witii these instructions Lieutenant Wilkes receivetl
orders to put to sea the moment he was ready. His squailron
was composed of the following vessels: the Vincennes, a
sloop of war of 780 tons, originally single-decked, but in con-
sequence of the intended cruise a light deck was jHit on her
for the protection of the men and to afford more room. The
accommodations thus became those of a small frigate.

The Peacock, a sloop of war of 650 tons, o; iginally built
with a deck like that of the Vincennes. She had made two
cruises previous to her sailing in 1838.

The Porpoise, a gun-brig of two-and-thirty tons ; the tender
Sea-Gull of 1 10 tons ; the tender Elying-Eish of 96 tons ; and
the Relief, a new vessel, originally intended as a store-ship
for the navy. She was built for carrying, and her slow rate
of sailing made her ill-adapted for the cruise.

Orders were given to rencUrzvous, in case of separation, at
Madeira. It was soon found, in the trial of the sailing quali-
ties of the vessels, that the Relief was unsuited to act widi
the rest without great detention, and after four days Lieuten-
ant Wilkes determined to part company with her, giving her
orders to proceed to the Cape de Verdes.

On the 25th of August the winds became favorable, and
the squadron was enabled to lay its course towards Madeira.
They continued to keep the direction of the Ciulf Stream to-
wards the Western Islands. They felt its inlUience until they
reached the longitude of 48° W., and found it to set for the
last few days to the northward of east. The winils had been
light and the sea smooth, indicating no other impulse than
the n.)w of the stream. The temperature gradually decreaseil
from S^° to 75°.

On th(i night of the 26th the ships parted company wiUi
the Peacock and P'lying-P^ish in a squall, and did not again
meet them until they reached Madeira. The 5th of Septem-
ber, being near the reported shoal of St. Anne» he determined
to pass over its position.

WILKES ANTARCTIC KXrEDlTlON.

137

On the I 6th Lieutenant Wilkes made the islaml of Madeira,
and havini^ a stroni^ westerly wind he determined to pass to
Funchal, on its southern side. This may be ilone at this sea-
son, but vessels bound to that port usually prefer i^ohii;' rountl
the eastern point of the island. Wiien off the western point
of Madeira he experienced a very lono, heavy swell, which
i^ave him an opportunity of tryino- the velocity of the waves
by noting the lime the same wave was passing between tiic
vessels.

Before sunset he cast anchor in company with the Porpoise
and Sea-Ciull, aiul were the next morning joined by the Pea-
cock and Plyino-lMsh.

Shortly after coming to anchor the X'incennes was boarded
by the iiealth ofticer, with the captain of the i)ort, who gave
permission to land.

The landing at P\mchal is on a stony beach, ami is accom-
panied with some litde difficulty, pardy on account of the
surf, but more from the ni)ise, confusion, and u{)roar made by
the native boatmen in their efforts ii) tlrag their boats up on
the beach. This operation they however understand, and are
well accustomed to, and those who desire to land dry will be
wise to employ them.

The habitations of the lower order are miserable huts.
They are composed of walls of stone, about five or six feet
high, with a roof rising on all sidts to a ctMitral pole ; are
thatched with straw or broom, antl contain only one room.
The only aperture for light and smoke is the tloor. There is
but little necessity for chimneys, as fire is seldom required.
In the northern part of the islaml some of the pi'asants make
their habitation in caves or excavations on the hillside.

In the town of l^'unchal there are many elegant establish-
ments, and much luxury among the higher classes, but the
poorer classes are lodged miserably. Tl^e houses are gener-
ally of one story, of which the exterior is well kept, being
neatly whitewashed ; but the interior is anything but comfort-
able. They have but one entrance. The floors are paved
with round stone, and the walls are of rough stone, presenting
no better an appearance than our wood-cellars. The furniture
is scanty and of the coarsest kind.

Travelling is performed in sedan-chairs. This mode is al-
ways considered the safest for ladies, particularly in crossing
the mountains. Horses and mules are seldom used. On

138

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

Sf i

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>;!

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leaving Funchal for the country it is one continued ascent be-
tween high stone walls, these forming abutments to the ter-
races, which are covered with vines, and afford protection
from the sun. After reaching the hills one enjoys a delight-
ful view of the beautiful gardens. The roadsides are lined
throughout with flowers (to us, those of the green-house),
among tliem Fuchsias, digitalis, rose geraniums, Punica gra-
nata, Rosa indica coccinea. Hydrangea hortensis, mixed with
box-trees, myrtles, etc.

The valleys are covered with the Belladonna lily, and the
mountain-passes cannot be compared to anything more ap-
propriate than to a rich flower-garden left to grow wild.
Added to this, a climate which resembles our finest spring
weather.

Such of the peasantry as do not gain a subsistence in the
vineyards, have usually a small patch of ground which they
cultivate, raising grain, corn, potatoes, and the taro (Arum
esculentum), in quantities barely sufficient to eke out a scanty
living. The cultivation is commonly performed by hand, al-
though a plow of very simple construction is sometimes used.
Many of the peasantry are employed as carriers, and one is
much struck by their numbers when entering Funchal early in
the morning, with -heep-skins filled with wine on their shoul-
ders, that look at a distance more like the live animal than a
filled skin.

The south side of Madeira, although not the most fertile,
produces the finest wines. Every point which can be cul-
tivated successfully is attended to, and earth is brought
to increase the soil from other parts. The kinds of grapes
are various, and the wines manufactured are numerous. The
common Madeira is obtained from a mixture of Bual, Ver-
delho and Negro Molle grapes ; the Malmsey and Sercial
from grapes of the same name. There is a great difference
in the spots and peculiar exposure where the vine grows; and
different kinds of wine are produced, according to the state
of maturity to which the grape is allowed to arrive at before
being gathered. After being expressed, it is put into casks,
undergoes the process of fermentation, is clarified with gyp-
sum or isinglass, and a small portion of brandy is added, two
or three gallons to the pipe.

The deportment of the lower classes is a mixture of polite-
ness and servility. The language spoken in Madeira is

WILKES ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION.

139

\ ascent be-
, to the ter-
l protection
's a dcll^ht-
L2S are lined
recn-house),
Tunica gra-
mixed with

lily, and the
ing more ap-
) grow wild,
finest spring

iistence in the
id which they
e taro (Arum
e out a scanty
d by hand, al-
metimes used,
rs, and one is
Linchal early in
3n their shoul-
animal than a

e most fertile,
h can be cul-
th is brought
inds of grapes
merous. The
-; of Bual, Ver-
ey and Sercial
reat difference
ne grows ; and
,g to the state
r^ive at before
put into casks,
ified with gyp-
' is added, two

Ixture of polite-
lin Madeira is

Portuguese, but with a rapid utterance, or rather, clipping or
abbreviating^ of their words and expressiohb.

The ignorance of the common people seems great. Few
can read, and still fewer write. It is said they are acquainted
with no more than three coins, all of which are Spanish,
namely, dollars, pistareens, and bits, and that many kinds of
Portuguese coins current in Lisbon will not pass in Madeira.
The want of a small description of money is much felt.

On the 2 5tli of September the squadron sailed from Ma-
deira, and stood to the southward, intending to pass over the.
localities where shoals were supposed to exist.

After passing the Canary Islands they experienced a cur-
rent setting northeast by east, of about one-fcurth of a mile
an hour until they reached the latitude of Bonavista, one of
the Cape de Verde Islands.

On the 29th of September they passed into discolored
water, as green in appearance as that of fifty fathoms' depth.
On entering it the thermometer fell one and a half to two de-
grees. The distance run in it was about four hundred and
fifty miles. Repeated casts of the deep-sea lead were had in
from two to three hundred fathoms, but no bottom found.
The water was particularly examined for animalcnlre, but
none were detected. On leaving it a rise of temperature
took place of two degrees ; and much phosphorescence was
seen when they had passed out of it.

On the morning of the 7th they anchored in Porto Praya
bay. The island of St. Jago presents a very different appear-
ance from Madeira, particularly the southeastern portion of
it, though its formation is known to be similar. There are
many high peaks and mountains in its centre, which afford a
fine background for the barren and uninteresting coast
scenery.

The time of arrival was just after the rainy season ; the
island consequently presented a more verdant appearance
than it does at other seasons of the year.

The town of Porto Praya is prettily situated on an elevated
piece of table-land, and looked well from the anchorage.

The bay is an open one, but is not exposed to the prevail-
ing winds. There is generally a swell setting in, which makes
the landing unpleasant and difficult. The only landing-place
is a small rock, some distance from the town, and under a
high bank, on which there is, or rather was, a fortification, for

{'1

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I40

ANTARCTIC KXI'I-OKATIONS.

'-.! rr

LI. ; ii

it is now entirely gone to decay. It commands the bay, and
is situated about two hundred leet above the sea. The hori-
zontal stratification of tlu* red and yi^liow-colored sandstone
shows most conspicuously in this cliff, ami forms one of the
most remarkable objects on this part of the island. It is of
tertiary ft)rmation, and contains many fossils.

On landini;- a stranLi^er is inunetliaiely surrounded by niaii-
bers of the inhabitants with fruit, vei^elables, chickens, turkeys
and monkeys, all [)ressinj; him with barj^ains, ant! willinj^ to
take anything- for the purpose of obliging their customers.
Many of them continue to follow until they meet with some
new customer.

The soil, rocks, ami everything arouml on the surface, show
une<iuivocal marks of volcanic origin. Tiie rock above the
tertiary formation is a thick bed of cellular lava, with frag-
ments of tlu* same strewn in every tlirection over it. A
thin and poor soil gives but little susunance to a light her-
bage. Cloats and asses are found in great numbers grazing
upon it.

The walk from the landing to the town is very fatiguing,
and the road deep with sand. The hrst view of the town on
entering it is anything but striking, and all the iileas formed
in its favor are soon dispelletl. The houses are whitewashed,
and in general a|)pearance resemble those inhabitetl by the
lower orders in Madeira, but they are mi.r.h inferior even to
them. The northeast part of the town is composed of rough
stone houses, covered with j)alm leaves. The streets are
wide, and in the centre is a large public scpiare, the midillc
of which is occupied by a small wooden monument. A chapel,
jail and barracks constitute the principal public buildings.
The fort, which flanks the town, is almost entirely in decay.
This is the case with almost everything we saw here ; the
place is, indeed, little better than an African town. The
houses are of stone, one story high, partly thatched, and
others tiled. Their interior presents only a few articles of
absolute necessity. Of comfort and cleanliness they have no
idea. The houses and streets are filthy in the extreme; and
in both of them pigs, fowls and monkeys appear to claim,
and really possess, equal rights with the occupants and
owner.

The population is made up of an intermixture of descend-
ants from the Portuguese, natives and negroes from the adja*

Wn.KKS ANTARCTIC KXlMiniTION.

141

the bay, and
. The hori-
•il saiKlstoiU"
»s one of the
iicl. It is ol"

luU'd by ni.iv.-
L;kens, turkeys
aiul vvillino to
i'ir cusloiners.
cet with some

■ surface, show
)(k al)Ove the
;vva, with fra^r-
n over it. A
to a li^ht her-
jinbers grazing

very fatij^uinij:,
of the town on
c ideas formed
■(; whitewashed,
ihabited by the
nfcrior even to
posed t)f roui;h
'he streets are
lare, the middle
u'Ht. A chapel,
ublic buildings,
itirely in decay.

saw here; the
an town. The

thatched, and

few articles of
:ss they have no
le extreme ; and
.ppear to claim.

occupants and

;ure of descend-
-s from the adja-

cent coast. The negro ran: s(!ems to predominate, woolly
hair, Hat noses and tiiick lips being most fn.cpiently m(;t
with.

\ h(! language spok<!n is a jargon formed by a mixture of
the Portugucrse and negro dialects. Most of tlu; blacks speak
th(Mr nativ(r tongue. Ilale, our philologist, obtained here a
vocabidary of the Mandingo languag<.', and found it to agree
with that giv(!n by Mungo Park,

On the afternoon of the 23d of November tlu! squadron
took a light wind from the southeast, and with all sail s(;t
stood in for the; magnificent harl>or of Rio Janeiro, 'i'heir
att(Mition was drawn first to th<; higii, fantastic and abrupt
peaks of (iavia, the Sugar Loaf and Corcovado on th(; U'W;
whilst on the right they iiad th(^ bold point of .Santa Cruz ;
then before them the city of San .Salvador and the towns of
San Domingo, with Praya (irande ()|)posit(;, and tlu' islands
and (l('et that lay bc^twecn them decking this beautiful ex-
panse of water. Tluts(; object;s, witii the pinnacles of the
Organ Mountains for a background, form such a scene that
it wouKl be difficult to point out in what manner it could be
improved. The life and stir created by the number of ves-
sels, boats and steamers of various forms and of all sizes
passing to and fro give great animation to the whoh;.

The mountains present a very peculiar ap[)earance. Their
tops and sides have a rounded or worn surface, destitute of
verdure, with the exception of here and there a yc.'llowish
patch, produced by the rillandsias, which in places covers the
rocks. Th(! abruptness of the Sugar Loaf Mountain, and
those immediately behind Santa Cruz, strikes the spectator
very forcibly.

The shipping do not form, as in other places, a dense forest
of masts. There b(;ing no wharves th(-y are obliged to lie
at anchor, exhibiting their proportions and symmetry to gn-at
advantage. They are usually s(;en grouped together, with
their dim;rent flags flying, forming a picture that a painter
would delight in.

There is a feeling of security on entering the harbor of Rio
that one seldom experiences (dsewhere. The mountains
seem as it were to afford complete protection from the v^^inds
and ocean. They anchored near Enxados or Hospital I.sland,
and found the Peacock had arrived here three days before
them, and that she was proceeding with her repairs rapidly.

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142

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

The vessels being altogether unfit for the southern cruise, it
became necessary to effect the requisite repairs as speedily
as possible.

The instruments and stores were allowed to be landed free
of inspection, and ever)' assistance they could desire was
afforded by the government and its officers.

Every one, on first landing at Rio Janeiro or San Salvador,
will be struck with the indiscriminate mingling of all classes
in every place, all appearing on terms of the utmost equality;
officers, soldiers and priests, both black and white, mixing
and performing their respective duties, without regard to
color or appearance. The only distinction seems to be that
of freedom and slavery. There are many wealthy free blacks,
highly respectable, who amalgamate with the white families,
and are apparently received on a footing of perfect equality.
An air of independence is creeping in even among the work-
ing classes. Any little service that is required, and for which
they are well paid, they appear to consider as a favor done
you. The mechanical arts are at least half a century behind
those of other countries. The churches, which ar6 numerous,
are falling into decay, and, to crown all, the steps of the
churches are made a market-place for the sale of sheep,
pigeons, fruit, etc.

You can see Rio Janeiro under its most favorable aspect
during the holidays, when the church has put on all her finery
and decorations, and every one, slave as well as master, seems
intent upon enjoying himself. The Christmas week or holi-
days give a respite from all labor, and various are the amuse-
ments. The churches are decked, and the services extraor-
dinary.

The neglect of the public walks and roads shows a want of
proper attention, and strikes the visitor as different from the
usual order of things around a court. Rio has every advan-
tage to make it a clean city, but the inclination appears to be
wanting,

The houses of the city are strongly built of stone, cemented
together with clay ; this is used in consequence of the scarcity
of lime, which is only obtained by 'burning shells fished up
from the bay. The nouses are plastered on the outside, and
have a pretty appearance and color. The floors, beams and
roofs are made of the hard wood of the country, of great size
and strength, which are indeed necessary from the heavy tile

em cruise, it
■s as speedily

,e landed free
d desire was

San Salvador,
; of all classes
nost equality;
white, mixing
DUt regard to
;ms to be that
hy free blacks,
white families,
irfect equality,
long the work-
I, and for which
i a favor done
century behind

arfe numerous,
16 steps of the

sale of sheep,

avorable aspect
.11 all her fmery
master, seems
IS week or holi-
are the am u se-
rvices extraor-

lows a want of
fferent from the
,s every advan-
n appears to be

stone, cemented
e of the scarcity
,hells fished up
the outside, and
3ors, beams and
ry, of great size
Ti the heavy tile

WILKES ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION.

143

roof they have to bear. Very few of the houses have yards,
cellars or gardens ; consequently the dwellers are still greatly
incommoded from the want of w?ter-closets, detrimental both
to health and comfort, and not only an annoyance and incon-
venience to the inhabitants themselves, but shared by the
stranger in passing through the streets.

The churches are richly decorated in the interior with mas-
sive gold and silver ornaments. On some of the altars of
the saints it is the practice to suspend the diseased parts of
the body in wax, in honor of the cure supposed to have
been effected by the saints' intercession. The sight of these
is truly disgusting, although they are far from being well
executed.

The language generally spoken is Portuguese, though
some inhabitants speak French, English and German.

The repairs on the ships of the squadron to be made at
Rio were extensive, particularly those on the Peacock.
Amoncr other thincjs the head of the mizzen-mast had to be
cut off eighteen inches, in consequence of a defect in it, which
it appeared had been filled up with rope-yarns and putty, and
painted over at her outfit. The defects about the vessel were
so glaring, that in going to the high latitudes it would have
been impossible to secure the crew from great suffering and
exposure. Even in the state in which the squadron was now
put, they had every apprehension of the greatest disasters.
The Peacock, particularly, was wholly unseaworthy with re-
spect to such a cruise.

On the 6th of January, everything being ready, the squad-
ron weighed anchor and dropped down the harbor.

The winds proved light and variable during their passage
to Rio Negro, and they occasionally experienced a south-
westerly current, of little strength. On the i8th of January,
when seventy-eight miles distant from the mouth of the Rio
la Plata, they passed through the discolored water of that
river.

On the 25th they discovered the coast, which is a line of
low sand-hills, without trees, and it exhibits little appearance
of vegetation. In the evening they anchored off the bar.

The coast and the banks of the Rio Negro are composed
of sand-hills of from thirty to fifty feet in height, covered with
a scattered growth of grass, which prevents the sand from
blowing away. These gradually rise to the height of one

144

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS

iI'.m!'

hundred feet, except to the southward of the river, where the
bank is perpendicular ; at tliis iieis^ht the orround stretches
away in a level prairie, without a sinj^le tree to break the
monotony of the scene, and affords a view as uninterrupted
as the ocean.

The only verdure on the prairie is a small shrub, which,
when the lower branches are trimmed off, serves a useful
purpose. From an optical illusion (the effect of refraction)
they appear, when thus trimmed, as hxr^e as an ordinary
sized apple tree, and one is not a litde surprised to find them,
on a near approach, no higher than the surroundinir shrubs,
four or five feet. Shrubs are trimmed in this manner at dis-
tances of about half a mile from each other, and are used as
g^uide-posts on the prairie, A similar optical effect is spoken
of by travellers on the steppes of Russia.

Game is most plentiful, consisting of deer, guanacoes, and
cavias, cassowaries, partridges, bustards, ducks, etc. Arma-
dillos were common, and the ostrich was frequently seen ;
porcupines are also said to be found. The cavias were seen
running about in single file, with a sort of halting i^ait.

The width of the river is less than a third of a mile ; it has
a rapid current, and a large body of water is carried by it to
the ocean.

On the 3d of February the squadron got under way, and
were glad to leave an exposed and unpleasant anchorage.

On the 13th they made Staten Land, and soon afterwards
Cape St. Diego, Terra del F"uego. The land was broken,
high, and desolate. The Straits of Le Maire were before
them ; they were just in time to take the tide, and with a fair
wind they saileH rapidly through the strait, passing its whirls
and eddies, how quite smooth, but in a short time to become
vexed and fretted by the returning tide. The squadron
glided along with all its canvas spread to the breeze, scarcely
making a ripple under the bows. The day was a remarkably
fine one for this climate, and the sight beautiful, notwithstand-
ing the desolate appearance of the shores.

The coast of Terra del Fuego presents the same general
character throughout, of high, broken, and rugged land,
which appears of a uniform elevation of about one thousand
or fifteen hundred feet, with here and there a peak or moun-
tain covered with snow, rising to some four or five thousand
feet. • The whole wears a sombre and desolate aspect. It

WILKFS' ANTAkCTlC KXrKDITION.

145

-, where the
id stretches
:) brc'ak the
lintcrrupted

ihrub, which,
^es a useful
if refraction)
an ordinary
to find them,
idin^ shrubs,
lanner at dis-
l are used as
feet is spoken

Lianacoes, and
i, etc. Arma-
quently seen;
ias were seen
ig <^ait.
a mile ; it has
arried by it to

inder way, and
anchorage,
ion afterwards
^ was broken,
[e were before
and with a fair
jsing its whirls
cime to become
I The squadron
freeze, scarcely
is a remarkably
|l, notwithstand-

same general

rugged land,

It one thousand

1 peak or moun-

l five thousand

(late aspect. It

may be said to be iron-bound, with many high and isolated
rocks, that have bcxome detached from the land apparently
by tlie wear of ages. Numerous une.xpected indentations
occur all along the coast, many of them forming harbors for
small vessels, and some of them very safe ones.

In passing Cape Horn the weather was delightful. They
sailed within two miles of this dreaded promontory, and could
not but admire its worn and weather-beaten sides, that have
so lonir been invested with all the terrors that can beset sail-
ors. Here they first encountered the long swell of the
Pacific, but there was scarcely a ripple on its surface. Al-
though the landscape was covered with sf^ow, the lowest tenv
perature was 40° Fahreniieit.

On the 17th of Fel)ruary, 1839, at half-past 6 a. m., an-
chored in Orange Harbor, Here they found the Relief and
tenders, all well.

Orange Harbor is on the western side of Nassau Bay,
separated and protected from it by Burnt Island.. It is nearly
land-locked, and is the safest harbor on the coast. The hills
jn each side, after several undulations, rise into conical peaks,
and the naked rock is everywhere broken into a jagged out-
line, with no creeping plants to soften or take off its harsh-
ness. Everything has a bleak and wintry appearan*"e, and is
in excellent keeping with the climate ; yet the scenery about
it is pleasing to the eye, bounded on all sides by undulating
hills, which are covered with evergreen foliage. Distant
mountains, some of which are capped with snow, shooting up
in a variety of forms, seen beyond the extensive bays, form a
fine background. From the vessels the hills look like smooth
downs, and if it were not for the inclemency and fitfulness of
the weather, they might be contemplated with some pleasure.
The hills are covered with dense forests of beech, birch,
willow, and winter-bark. Some of the former trees are forty
or fifty feet high, having all their tops bent to the northeast
by the prevailing southwest winds. They are remarkably
even as to height, having more the look, at a distance, of
heath than of forest trees.

The whole coast has the appearance of being of recent vol-
canic rocks, but all investigations tended to prove the con-
trary.

Immediately on arrival at Orange Harbor, active prepara-
tions were made for a short cruise to the Antarctic.

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146

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

'HI".

ill;

T'!'!' 1

Captain Hudson, with the Peacock, and the Flying-Fish,
under Lieutenant Walker, as a tender, were ordered to the
westward, as far as the Ne Plus Ultra of Cook. Lieutenant
Wilkes went in the Porpoise, Lieutenant-Commandant Ring-
gold, accompanied by the Sea-Gull, Lieutenant Johnson, to
pass to the south, for the purpose, if possible, of exploring
the southeast side of Palmer's Land, or, should an opportu-
nity offer, of proceeding farther south. The Relief, Lieuten-
ant-Commandant Long, was ordered into the Straits of Ma-
gellan, through the Brecknock Passage and Cockburn's
Sound, with part of the gentlemen of the scientific corps, in
order to enlarge the field of operations. Mr. Peale volun-
teered to go south in the Peacock.

The Vincennes was safely moored in Orange Harbor, and
left under the charge of Lieutenant Craven, to carry on the
investigations, surveys, etc., etc. Messrs. Couthouy and
Drayton, of the scientific corps, remained in tlv-i Vincennes.
Lieutenant Carr v/as put in charge of the observatory.

The vessels were well supplied with fuel, provisions, and
various antiscorbutics, for ten months. A spot for the ob-
servatory was fixed upon, and orders left for the duties to be
performed during the absence of the squadron.

'""^m

Flying-Fish,
crcd to the

Lieutenant
ndant Rin^-

johnson, to
of exploring

an opporlu-
.■lief, Lieuten-
»traits of Ma-
i Cockburn's
itific corps, in

Peale voUin-

e Harbor, and
carry on the
:outhouy and
h2 Vincennes.
rvatory.
provisions, and
ot for the ob-
he duties to be

CHArTI'R VII.

wii.KKs' ANTAKcrnc KXTHDiTioN — {Continued).

Departure of flic Antarctic Kxpi'ditinn from Oiani^e Ilarhor — Tlu- Porpoise and Sea-Gull
Separate (luring a dale — lllipliaiil Islan<l — I'.xpedition of the I'eacoclt and I'lyinj; I'iili —
A TerriMe (Sale and an Aurora Aiislraiis — Turniiij; tlic Visscls' Heads Norlliward — The
Teacock Arrives at Valjiaraiso — The Relief in a (iaie near Noir Island — Losing lief
Anchors — I )i'parture from Valjiaraiso — Arrival at (!allao— A Jaunt into the Interior of
Peru — Store-Ship Relief Ordered Home — Minerva Island— Arrival at Tahiti — The I'or-
poise Sails for the Samoan Ciroup, and the Vincennes to I'apieli — Ascendinj; Mount Ao-
rai — The Ilarhor of FaRo-l'aKo — The Vincennes Sails from Tuila — A Narrow Kscapc
— Tuvai Tried for Murder — In the Ilarhor o( Apia — Apolima — Sailinjj for New South
Wales — Arrival at Sydney — Dejiarture of the S(|ua<iron for an Antarctic Cruise— Tiie
Flying Fish and Peacock Separated from the Vincennes and Porpoise During a (Jale — •
The Peacock Discovers a (luano Island — Is there an Antarctic Continent ? — Return of
e Vincennes Northward — Proceeding of the Porpoise — French Si^uadrun Seen — Us
Commander Refuses to Speak the Porpoise.

On the 25th of February, 1839, having conpleted the ar-
rangements for the southern cruise, the signal was ordered
to be made for the vessels to get under way, when Lieuten-
ant Wilkes joined the Porpoise. Very many of the crew
were desirous of following him, and expressed regrets and
disappointment that the Vincennes was not going south.
About 7 A. M. the ships left the harbor, with a light breeze from
the nordi, having the Sea-Gull, of which vessel Lieutenant
Johnson was in charge, in company. At the mouth of the
harbor Captain Hudson and the officers took their leave.

The wind continued light, with fine weather, until the after-
noon. A dense bank of cumuli in the southwest foretold that
they were not long to enjoy such moderate weather. About
4 p. M. a heavy squall struck the ships, which soon took them
clear of the islands, on their course to the southward.

On the 26th they discovered a sail, which proved to be the
whale-ship America, from New Zealand, bound to New York,
and afforded them an opportunity of writing home, which
they gladly availed themselves of.

After delivering their letters they bore away to the south-

('47)

! 1 '

ANIAIU TIC l:XPI.nK,M?(iNS.

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»'

i < ;

■•' ' \

iff

.,. J 'i

3^1

«'as|, ilu- wiiul iut liiiinj; to tlic nnrtluvc-sl, an*! Mnwiiij; heavy,
with a hi'hl and i< !naikal)lv riT'i'-n' ■••';» InHnuin'-.

At «la\hi;ht on the i si (»l M.iii h th«'y ha<l snnw in llnirirs,
and the Inst wr islands wen* ina«l<\ They «'x« ilcd innrh
iiniosity, .in«l a|t|»<'and to have IxM-n a jmumI ileal worn, as
thoujdi the sea had Ix-en washing; ovei tiw in !(»!• some time,
riuy w<Te ol sn«.dl si/e in lonipariscMi with tluise liny allc-r-
wards saw. I>nt. luinj; nnnsed to il»e sij-ht, they thonj^dil them
mai^nilu cnt. At noon they matle l.md, whieh prove<l to he
Ridh'v's Islaiul. It was hiidt, broken, and rn|;j;ed, with ihe
lop eoverjMJ with sin>w. The locks had a basaltic appear-
ance, and in. in) were detached Irom the main I)ody ol the isl-
and, with nninei«)us hiid\ pinnacles, very mnih worn hy the
s<'a. The snri w.is too j^real to attempt a landinj.; lor \\\v.
)nrpose ol procuring; spetimens. As they closed in with llxr
and, they lowered a l>oat and tried the cnrrent, which was
lound seitini; to tin- north northwest, Ivvo fathoms per honr.

I.atei they had several ice islands in sij^ht, (ape Mel-
ville Im arini; stmth hy east. TlH-y now had lij;hl wiiuls from
the sonih-st)nlhw( St.

rh(> north loreland ol' Kini; ( leory^c's Island was in si^ht,
and lound It) W well plactd on the charts. The appearance
ot all this land is volcanic; it is Irom eii^ht lumdred to one
tlunisaiul feet hijL^h. I he npper part is cov<'red and the val
leys lilled with snow ol i;reat depth. Helore nii^ht W(! hail
several other islands in sij^hl, with many l)eri;s and much
tl Hit -ice.

On the 2d, at tiaylioht. they made O'Hrien's and Aspland's
Islands to the easiw rd. with many ice islands, somt^ ol a
talnilar torm, and from half a mile to a mile in length.
riirouL^h the loo and mist they i^ot a sii;ht of hridj^cman's
Island, and stotul for it. with the intention of landing on it.

0\\ the ^k\ the ships stood for Palmer's Land. Tlic birds
now had very much increased. Cape pii^cons, with the ijrny
and black petrel, ami occasionally i)en_<;uins, swimming about
in all directions, uttering their iliscordant screams: they
scorned astonished at encountering so unusual an object as a
vessel in these rroz(Mi seas. At 6 hrs. 30 min. they made land,
which Lieutenant Wilkes took to be Mount Hope, the east-
ern point of Palmer's Land. Later they had penetrated
among the numerous icebergs, until they found it impossible
to go farther. They had rarely seen a finer sight. The sea

WM.KI.S ANIAKC in I Xl'l I H I l(»N.

was lilrnilly siiiiMrd with llusr iMaiitiriit innssff;, soinr at
\n\"- \\Ilil«', oIIhis slinwilli; .ill llir '.li.idr', of ||ir <>|»ill, otluTS
(iM'i.ilil );iri'n, and <>( ( asinn.illy lictr and tlwic '.one oi a
di ( |) lil.n L, fninnn<.;^ a strung; (ontra.l to the pnrc wliilc,

( )n ihr 5lh nl M.iirli du- );al<' had inc r<a'.<(l. Ilic trndcr
Sca-(inll l)(inj^ in tlosr rnni|iany, liodi vriisrls wnr in iinnii-

l <l.

»njM r

At ^

M. Ihcy narinvvly ('.(aiM-d i.rv* ral u '

ncn

Im'I^;s. Ai ,| a, \i. il l»l<'w a v<iy liravy j;alr from \\\<- soulh-
west; ihr l<n»|»( raliin- <>1 the air lt|| lo 27", and that (»! llir
walfT was 2c;" ; du* i( »• (ornird ia|tidly on iIm- d«( k, and (ov-
ncd die lif'.v'.in};, so nnn li a. lo icndrr ii dilli( nit lo work
<'idwr the Itrij; «»r schooner; danjMf. I)'*.'| tjjrni in cvty
dircclion, and it n'<|nircd all ihr wal< hinlncss dicy w»rr pos-
sessed oj to avoid ihmi.

I'roni tlw stale ol the wealher, the lateness ol the seasr)n,
and the (lillii nlly ol seeinj' around liieni, not only dnrin;; iIk!
several honrii ol the nijdil, hut ev<n in the day-time, (he ( on-
sitant loj^s and mist in whi( h they liad been lor several hours
every day «'nvelo|ied, rendered their ex<rlions a!)orliv<', and
preclnded the possibility of doin;.; ;mythin}.( more than to at-
tend to the sailiiii.', ol the vessels. These reasons determined
them . » j^ive np the endeavor to |)ro((ed farther south, le<'|
in;^ convinced that the season lor su( h explorations had }.fone
hy. Ia(uitenant Wilkes therefore ordered the Sea-(iull to
rittnrn toOraninr I larhor, well kriowin^ that her situation was
much worse than his own ; dire( tin;^^ her to touch at ! )e( cption
Island on tlxr way, while th<; I'orpoisc; pro((!eded to the
northward to (examine some of the otluT islands.

On the 7th, while makiiij^ all way to the northward, the fo;^'
lifted, and hij^li land was reported within a slK)rt distancf; ot
us. A few moments more and the I'orpois*; should have Ix'.cn
wrecked. This prov(;d to l»e l"'.lephant Island. The sea was
too hij^li to attempt a landin^^ In th<; aft(;rnoon it clearetl.
and from observations found Cape l)elsham, its eastern [joint,
well plac(Hl. Tlu^y passed l>etwe(;n it and Cornwallis Island.
The Seal Rocks were now also seen and f)hserved upon. On
the 16th the ship was off llw. Straits of L<; Mai re.

On the 30th they reached Oranj^^e 1 larbor. The Sea-Gull
had returned safely, havinj.^, after partinj^ company, visited, as
directed, Deception Island.

Early on the 25th of February, the Peacock, with the
tender Flying-Fish, got under way, and also received parting

I ;

Jil

I t

11,

1- 1 : ii:

i'' Ml-?

whit'.', }

150

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

cheers from the Vincennes ami Relief. The heavy squall
from the southwest induced Cap»ain Hudson to regain the
outer anchorage of Orange Harbor, and remain there during
the continuance of the gale. The next morning, the weather
proving more favorable, they again got under way, and stood
down the bay with all sail set, and a fine breeze from the
northward.

The heavy bank of cumuli that had been perceived in the
west, by noon began to develop itself, and by three o'clock
they were under their storm-sails. This gale lasted twenty-
four hours, and during its continuance the tender Flying-Fish
was lost sight of.

During the gale, from her bad and defective outfits, no
vessel could be more uncomfortable than the Peacock, and,
although every precaution was taken to make the ports tight,
yet from their working, it was found impossible to keep them
so.

They encountered, during the 1 7th and part of the i8th, the
heaviest gale and sea they had experienced since leaving the
United States. The ship was completely coated with ice,
even to the gun-deck. Every spray thrown over her froze,
and her bows and deck were fairly packed with it. The crew
suffered much from the gun-deck being constantly wet ; and
it being now covered with ice, the ship was damp through-
out.

On the 1 8th the gale continued, with a heavy sea, the
winds prevailing more from tiie south and the south-southeast.
There were many birds about the ship. Several icebergs
\vere in sight, and at night they had a beautiful display of the
aurora australis, extending from south-southwest to east. The
rays were of many colors, radiating towards the zenith, and
reaching an altitude of 30°. Several brilliant meteors were
also observed.

On the 19th they had another display of the aurora, and it
exhibited a peculiar effect. In the southern quarter there
was an appearance of a dense cloud, resembling a shadow
cast upon the sky, and forming an arch about 10° in altitude.
Above this were seen coruscations of light, rendering all ob-
jects around the ship visible. From behind this cloud diverg-
ing rays frequently shot up to an altitude of from 25° to 45°.
These appearances continued until day dav.'ned. The night
was remarkably fine, and many shooting stars were observed.

WILKES ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION.

151

During the afternoon of this day a fog-bank was perceived
in the southwestern quarter, and they were a sliort time after-
wards completely enveloped in a fog so dense and thick that
they could not see twice the length of the ship.

During the whole of the 21st they could not venture to run,
in consequence of the dense fog.

On the 23d it partly cleared, and the fog having been suc-
ceeded by a snow-storm, the wind hauled to the west, with a
heavy bank of clouds in that quarter. On the 24th, the wind
hauling to the northwaid and westward, brought snow and
thick weather, with some heavy squalls. Many icebergs were
met with, which were fortunately avoided. Some of the ice-
bergs were 200 feet above the surface of the water, and of a
pinnacle shape.

On the 25th they obtained a meridian observation, the first
for the last six days, and found themselves in the latitude of
68° S., longitude 97° 58' W. Here, in the evening, to their
great joy, they fell in with the tender Flying-Fish. On her
near approach all hands were turned up, and gave her three
hearty cheers. Lieutenant Walker reported to Captain Hud-
son that he had v'r.ited all the appointed rendezvous in hopes
of falling in with the Peacock. On the 17th they turned to-
wards the south for Cook's Ne Plus Ultra, and continued their
way to the- southward. The weather was at times very thick,
the ice-islands became numerous, and they occasionally passed
a little floating ice. On the i8th the ice became abundant,
and floated in large masses around them. At 4 a. m. the
water was much discolored, and some of the ice also having
the appearance of being but lately detached from the land.
They obtained a cast of the lead, but found no bottom at 100
fathoms. At eight o'clock the fog lifted, and discovered, to
the amazement of all, a wall of ice from fifteen to twenty feet
high, extending east and west as far as the eye could reach,
and spreading out into r vast and seemingly boundless field
to the south. Their latitude at this time was about 67° 30'
S., longitude 105° W. The weather becoming thick, they
stood to the northward, and soon ran into blue water.

On the 2 1 St, at 7 a. m., they saw the ice extending in broken
ranges from south by east to northeast, and the sea extending
round to the westward. At eight o'clock the water was again
much discolored, and many large icebergs were around. At
meridian their latitude was 68° 41' S., longitude 103° 34' W.,

^ I

152

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

mf:

n\:

'-'J.

ifh S

when they agahi stood to the southward, running among the
ice-islands with a fair wind, flattering themselves that they
should before noon of the nerct day get farther south than
Cook had. In this, however, they were disappointed ; for the
weather became thick, and they were in consequence obliged
to heave to.

On the morning of the 23d of March their latitude was
70° S., longitude 100° 16' W. The weather proved clear.
In the afternoon they again stood to the southward and east-
ward for three hours, when they observed the appearance of
land, and discovered large masses of ice and numerous ice-
bergs. At midnight the southern horizon was beautifully
illuminated with the aurora australis.

On the 24th they had a heavy fall of snow ; passed many
icebergs and large quantities of floating ice; got suddenly
into large fields of packed and broken ice, extending as far
as the eye could reach in all directions, which, with the accu-
mulation of snow, appeared to be rapidly becoming solid.
They lost no time in forcing their way out. All on board
were of opinion that within a short time after they cleared it
it became a firm field of ice. The latitude observed was 69°
6' S., longitude 96° 50' W.

Having on two occasions narrowly escaped being closed in
by the ice, they had determined to return, and were makin
their way to the north when they fell in widi the Peacock.

The condition of the Peacock for a winter's campaign v:vs
miserable, and on board the Flying-Fish there was no protic
tion in the event of being frozen in. The positive nature "i
his instructions, combined with the report from the Flying-
Fish, convinced Captain Hudson of the necessity of turning
the vessels' heads towards a more temperate climate. On
holding a council with his officers, he found them all of the
opinion that the season for active operations in these latitudes
had passed, and that it was advisable for the vessels to pro-
ceed without delay to the north.

The vessels accordingly steered to the northward.

The weather, during the cruise south, was exceedingly un-
favorable ; for, with few exceptions, during their stay in the
Antarctic circle, they were enveloped in dense fogs, or found
only occasional relief from them in falls of snow. The crew
during the whole time enjoyed an unusual degree of health,
which is not a little surprising; for, since leaving Orange

WILKES ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION.

153

r among the
es that they
• south than
ited; for the
ence obUged

latitude was
proved clear,
ard and east-
ppearance of
lumerous ice-
as beautifully

passed many
got suddenly
tending as far
with the accu-
icoming solid.
AH on board
they cleared it
served was 69°

»eing closed in
were making
iC Peacock,
campaign w?s
|was no protec-
itive nature oi
im the Flyin^-
isity of turning
climate. On
them all of the
these latitudes
Ivessels to pro-

iward.

exceedingly un-
^eir stay in the
fogs, or found
jw."^ The crew
jgree of health,
leaving Orange

Harbor, the state of the ship had been such as to promote
disease. The precautions and endeavors to keep the men
dry entirely failed, from the condition of the ship.

On the night of the 29th a new danger beset them, that of
being consumed by fire. At midnight they were aroused by
the smell of burning, and smoke issuing from the main hold.
The usual orders were given relative to the magazine. The
drum beat to quarters. On opening the main hatch, smoke
issued out in volumes, and fire v»^as discovered under it, pro-
ceeding from a bag in full blaze. This was soon passed on
deck and the fire extinguished. It w^s fortunately discovered
in time, and was found to proceed from a quantity of coffee,
which had been put below in the bag, after it had been burnt
or roasted, the previous afternoon.

On the I St of April, in latitude 60° 12' S., longitude 84° 20'
W., Captain Hudson despatched the tender to Orange Har-
bor with his reports, and continued his route to Valparaiso.
The last icebergs seen were in latitude 62° 30' S., longitude
87° 41' W. : the temperature of air, 33° ; of water, 35°.

On the 2 1 St the Peacock arrived in Valparaiso, v/here to
their surprise they found the store-ship, the Relief, which had
arrived some days previous.

The Relief left Orange Harbor on the 26th of February,
for the purpose of visiting various places in the Straits of
Magellan, to afford an opportunity of making investigations,
and opening a larger field for our naturalists, during the fifty
or sixty days they were to be detained on the coast. Most
of the scientific men were accordingly transferred to her, and
she was ordered to enter the Brecknock Passage, and thence
into Cockburn Sound.

Various difficulties prevented her reaching the entrance to
the Brecknock Passage, principally that of keeping too far off
the coast on long tacks to the southward.

On the 17th of March, after being at sea twenty days, they
approached the coast, and a gale ensuing from the southwest,
Lieutenant-Commandant Long on the following day deter-
mined to run in and anchor under Noir Island. The wind
was blowing a gale from the southwest, with thick weather and
hail-squalls. Noir Island was discovered under the lee, judged
to be about twelve miles distant when they steered for it. It
becoming thick they did not discover the Tower Rocks until
they were almost up with, and just had time to clear them.

1 1

'54

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

!-BlE

". '

These rocks presented a magnificent and fearful sight, the sea
breaking completely over them. Three anchors were pre-
pared. They rounded the southeast point of the island and
stood in for the bay. At about five o'clock they anchored in
seventeen fathoms, and the anchor took effect.

On the morning of the, 19th the highest point of Noir Island
was seen, capped with snow; the wind had abated somewhat,
but not enough to permit of their landing in a snug litde cove
abreast of them. In the afternoon the wind again increased,
and another anchor was let go. The sea broke tremendously
on the reef astern, shooting up in columns, such as are seen
to appear under the effect of mirage. After it became dark
the wind shifted to the southward and eastward, which brought
the sea from that quarter, and exposed them more both to
it and the wind. The anchors shortly after began to drag,
and the vessel was urged in the direction of a rock. For-
tunately the wind abated towards morning, and came from
its old quarter, southwest, more off the land, but still blew
with violence.

On the morning of the 20th one of their chain cables was
found to have parted. The chain was hove in with some
difficulty and another anchor let go. The weather towards
evening became again threatening, and produced no little
anxiety. Afc nightfall it shifted in the same way it had done
the previous evening, blowing again heavily. The ship was
felt to be constantly dragging, accompanied by that grating
kind of noise of the chain moving on the bottom, which is
anything but agreeable. The rock astern, together with the
reef toward which the wind and sea were both setting the ship,
rendered their situation truly appalling. The prospect of any
one surviving in case they had struck was extremely slight.
The night was dark and stormy, and the dragging continued
occasionally until midnight, when they found they had passed
and escaped the rock and were near the reef. They now
shipped a heavy sea over the bows, the shock of which was
so great that it parted their cables, and their drifting became
rapid. From the set of the current tliey just cleared the reef.
When the point of the island bore east of south they slipped
their cables, wore round, and made sail, and on the 21st at
daybreak they found themselves off Cape Gloucester.

The conduct of Lieutenant-Commandant Long, his officers
and men, during the perilous situation in which the Relief was

WILKES ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION.

155

ight, the sea
5 were pre-
; island and
anchored in

• Noir Island
d somewhat,
jg little cove
in increased,
remendously
I as are seen
became dark
vhich brought
more both to
-gan to drag,
1 rock. For-
id came from
but still blew

lin cables was
in with some
ather towards
■uced no little
ay it had done
The ship was
)y that grating
)ttom, which is
ether with the
letting the ship,
)rospect of any
ctremely slight,
■ging continued
lieyliad passed
eef. They now
[k of which was
drifting became
leared the reef,
ith they slipped
on the 2 1 St at
lucester.
)ng, his officers
the Relief was

placed, deserves great praise ; they did their duty in every
respect. On the 13th of April the Relief arrived off Val-
paraiso without anchors. The Flying-Fish arrived at Orange
Harbor on the i ith of April.

On the 17th of April, the time having expired for the re-
turn of the Relief, Lieutenant Wilkes concluded to leave
Orange Harbor with the Vincennes and Porpoise. Believing
the Relief had been detained, the Flying-Fish and Sea-Gull
tenders were both left to await her arrival for ten days, to
take the scientific men on board, and join him at Valparaiso,
in order to prevent detention by the slow sailing of that ship.

On the 20th he took final leave of these waters, and on the
2 1 St lost sight of land, pas-^^ing to the northward of the island
of Diego Ramieres.

On the 23d, during a strong gale, the Vincennes parted
company with the Porpoise.

On the 15th Lieutenant Wilkes made the land off Valpa-
raiso, and before noon anchored in the bay, where he found
the Peacock and received tidings that the Relief had sailed
with the store-ship Mariposa for Callao. The Porpoise ar-
rived on the 1 6th, and the Flying-Fish reached Valparaiso on
the 19th, after having experienced extremely boisterous
weather.

On arrival at Valparaiso the officers and scientific men
were assigrned to such duties as were deemed most desirable
to insure the results in the different departments.

On the 26th of May, 1839, the Porpoise sailed for Callao,
in order that some repairs might be made on her.

On the 4th of June the ships made an attempt to get out
of the bay, but were obliged again to cast anchor. At this
season of the year light northerly winds usually prevail, and
a heavy swell frequently sets in the bay, ma::ing the road-
stead very uncomfortable, and at times dangerous.

On the second day after leaving Valparaiso they had a
fresh gale from the northward, accompanied with much sea.
During the night, in thick weather, they lost sight of the Pea-
cock and Flying-Fish. On the 9th they got beyond the wind,
which blows along the coast from the northward, and the
weather improved, exchanging fog, rain, mist, and contrary
winds for clear weather, and winds from the southwest.

On the 20th, in the evening, they passed through the Bou-
queron Passage, having got several casts of the lead in three

156

ANTAKC'IIC EXl'LOKATlUlx-.S.

,.,,i.

i i

ft'. if

■rr':!..;?

and a quarter fathoms water ; and by the assistance ci" the
lights of the other vessels, anchored near the rest of the
squadron at San Lorenzo, after a passage of thirteen days.
They found them all well and proceeding rapidly with their
repairs. The Peacock and Tlying-Fish had arrived two days
previous.

Ori receiving the reports of the commanders of the differ-
ent vessels, active operations were at once begun to refit and
replenish the stores. The necessary changes in officers and
men were made in order to send the Relief home.

Lieutenant Wilkes found it necessary to have the Relief
smoked, in order to destroy the rats with which she was in-
fested, to save the stores from further damage. During this
time the repairs of the Porpoise had been completed, and the
usual observations for rating the chronometers, and with the
magnetic instruments, were made on shore, and such officers
as could be spared allowed to visit Lima.

On the 30th of June the squadron went over to Callao.
From here several officers and the scientists made excursions
to the Cordilleras, visiting Lima and Ponchoma, as well as the
valleys of the Rimac and the Rio de Catavillo, and the towns
of Obragillo, Pasco, and Bannos: the latter celebrated for its
mineral hot-springs, which flow from the base of a high
mountain.

The town of Pasco is at an elevation of thirteen thousand
feet, and situated in the plain of San Juan, at the head of
two ravines, or gullies, one called Rumiallana, leading to the
northward, and the other Huanuco, to the eastward, where
the two great veins of Colquijirca and Pariajirca unite. These
are supposed to extend some seventy miles in length, and the
town of Pasco is situated at their junction. The part of the
ground that has been broken up, and in which ores have been
found, is about half a mile in length in a north and south di-
rection, and about one-fourth of a mile east and west. Within
the whole of this extent ores have been mined of greater or
less value, and the mines formerly worked and now deserted
are said to amount to upwards of a thousand.

On the 13th of July, 1839, the squadron had finished the
necessary outfits and taken in the necessary stores. The re-
mainder of the latter were embarked in the store-ship Relief,
which was ordered to land a part of them at the Sandwich
Islands, and the rest at Sydney, New South Wales, after

WILKES ANTARCTIC EXFEDITION.

157

tance cl" the
rest of the
lirteen days,
ly with their
ed two days

of the differ-
n to refit and
n officers and

le.

/e the ReUef
li she was in-
During this
)leted, and the
, and with the
d such officers

ver to Callao.
ade excursions
L, as well as the
and the towns
lebrated for its
ase of a high

rteen thousand
It the head of

leading to the
[astward, where
:a unite. These

length, and the
The part of the

ores have been
ih and south di-
H west. Within
fd of greater or

' now deserted

lad finished the
kores. The re-
ftore-ship Relief,
the Sandwich
th Wales, after

which to proceed to the United States by the way of Cap<'
Horn.

At five r. M., having a light breeze, the signal was made tn
get under way, and the ships were soon standing out of the
bay under all canvas.

Lieutenant Wilkes had determined, on leaving Callao, to
take up the examination of the Paumotu Group, recommended
to the expedition by that distinguished navigator and pro-
moter of science. Admiral Krusenstern. He therefore
steered for the island of Minerva, or Clermont de Tonnerre,
one of the most eastern of the Paumotu Group, or Cloud of
Islands, as the name implies. He deemed this to be the most
interesting point at which to begin the surveys, and the re-
searches of the naturalists, particularly as it was inhabited,
and would thus enable them to trace the inhabitants from one
end of Polynesia to the other, across the Pacific. At the
same time it afforded a very desirable point for magnetic ob-
servations, and a visit to it would also enable him to settle a
dispute between the two distinguished English and French
navigators, Captains Beechey and Duperrey, relative to its
geographical position.

On the 13th of August he made Clermont de Tonnerre, or
Minerva Island. Clermont de Tonnerre, being the first low
coral island met with, naturally excited a great deal of interest.

At first sight the island appeared much like a fieet of ves-
sels at anchor, nothing but the trees being seen in the dis-
tance, and as the ship rises and sinks with the swell of the
ocean, these are alternately seen and lost sight of. On a
nearer approach the whole white beach was distinctly seen,
constituting a narrow belt of land, of a light clay color, rising
up out of the deep ocean, the surf breaking on its coral reefs,
surrounding a lagoon of a beautiful blue tint, and perfectly'
smooth. This island was twelve feet above the level of the
sea, and six hundred feet wide to its lagoon, and is composed
of coral debris and vegetable matter. The shrubs are few,
and not more than from twelve to fifteen feet high ; the cocoa-
nut, palms, and Pandanus showing conspicuously above them.
It was ten miles long by one and a half wide, lying in a west-
northwest and east-southeast direction. The first sounding
on the east side of the island, at three hundred feet from the
reef, was obtained in ninety fathoms, coral sand ; at one hun-
dred and eighty feet, eighty-five fathoms, coral sand ; at one

, !'

nil

' '

X !■'

158

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

hundred and thirty feet, seven fathoms, hard coral ; being at
the edge of a nearly perpendicular shelf; thence to the shore,
the bottom was uneven, decreasing to four, three, and two
fathoms, until a second or upper coral-shelf arose, over which
the water at high-tide flowed. This extended to where the
beach is composed of broken coral and shells, and arose on
a gentle declivity to ten feet high.

The Peacock sounded within three-quarters of a mile from
the southern point of the island ; at three hundred and fifty
fathoms, the lead brought up for a moment, and then again
descended to six hundred fathoms without reaching bottom.
When it was hauled up it had a small piece of white and
another of red coral attached to it. The west side of the
island is a bare reef, over which the surf breaks violently.
There is no opening or entrance to the lagoon.

On the 1 6th the ships bore away for Serle Island; they
made the distance between the two islands, twenty-six miles
and two-tenths. No signs of any other island exist between
these two.

Serle is a low coral island, and has a large and very regular
clump of trees on its western end, which, at a distance, might
be taken for a mound or hill.

On the 19th of August the ships made Henuake, Honden,
or Dog Island, and came up with it about noon. The boats
were at once despatched, in order to ascertain if a landing
cou'id be effected, and the ships began the surveying opera-
tions. The number of birds seen hovering over the island
was an indication that it was not inhabited.

On the 23d of August the ships made the Disappointment
Islands of Byron : they are two in number, called Wytoohee
and Otooho.

On the morning of the 24th they were off the northwest
end of the former island. Many canoes came off to the ship :
as they approached the vessels the natives were heard, while
at some distance, singing ; and, as they drew near, the clamor
increased, accompanied with much laughing and many gestic-
ulations; but none of them could be induced to come on
board, and they were not willing to part with anything but
some pieces of old matting. An attempt was made to get
some of their paddles, but they rather ridiculed the idea of
parting with them.

On the morning of the 9th of September the ships were in

WILKES ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION.

159

al; being at
to the shore,
ree, and two
e, over which
to where the
and arose on

■ a mile from
Ired and fifty
d then again
:hing bottom,
of white and
It side of the
aks violently.

; Island; they
enty-six miles
exist between

jd very regular
distance, might

uake, Honden,
)n. The boats
in if a landing
rveying opera-
ver the island

Disappointment
lied Wytoohee

the northwest
off to the ship :
re heard, while
lear, the clamor
id many gestic-
' to come on
II anything but
ts made to get
ed the idea of

e ships were in

sight of Metia or Aurora Island. It was totally different in
appearance from those we had met with, though evidently of
the same formation. It was a coral island uplifted, exposing
its formation distinctly, and as such was very interesting. On
approaching its eastern end Lieutenant Wilkes sounded at
about one hundred and fifty feet from its perpendicular cliff,
and found no bottom with one hundred and fifty fathoms of
line. The cliff appeared worn into caverns.

The same evening they bore away for Tahiti, at which
island they arrived on the loth. Lieutenant-Commandant
Ringgold boarded the Vincennes and brought off Jim, the
pilot ; he reported all well on board the Porpoise. At sunset
they anchored in Matavai Bay.

Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold, in the Porpoise, after
parting company on the i st of September, proceeded to the
south side of Raraka, in fulfilment of his instructions. He
found the whole southern part of it a bare reef, with the surf
breaking violently over it. When off the south point he made
the isle of Katiu or Sacken to the south, and that of Makima
to the east, and connected them ; after which he proceeded to
the westward, passing Aratica (Carlshoff), and thence to
Nairsa or Dean's Island, which he made on the 5th ; fixed its
western end, passed along its south to its western side, and
thence to Krusenstern's Island, to the westward, which he
circumnavigated ; from thence went direct to Tahiti, anchored
in Papieti Harbor on the 9th, and the next day proceeded to
Matavai Bay, the place of rendezvous.

On the 1 2th the Peacock arrived, having passed to the
Rurick Islands or Arutua, the north end of which lies in lati-
tude 15° 15' S., longitude 146° 51' W. A landing was at-
tempted at several places in the boats. One of them siic-
ceeded near a cocoanut-grove, but the two that went to land
at the village found the surf too high to attempt it.

The north shore of Arutua Island was surveyed, when they
bore away, and connected it with Nairsa, or Dean's Island,
along which they ran the whole length of its south side by
daylight. The last-named island is for the most part a washed
reef, with no opening. The compact coral blocks showed
themselves here more conspicuously, and in greater numbers
than before seen.

After making the west end of Nairsa Captain Hudson
sighted Krusenstern's Island, and then stood for Metia Island,

.!,

l-li

i6o

ANTAIICTIC KXPLORATK^NS.

\i'^

;«

- i

ji?

CO the southward, on which the officers landed the next day
on its western side. Their examination confirmed tlie facts
already given relative to its appearance.

The next day they made Tetuaroa, to the northward of
Tahiti, formerly celebrated as the resort of the Tahitians, for
the purpose of recovering from the bodily diseases brought
on by their debaucheries, etc. It is a low island, about six
miles long, with a few trees upon it, and a reef off its south-
ern end, extending half a mile. It is plainly to be seen from
the high ridges of Tahiti.

On the 14th the Flying-Fish arrived. She had visited and
surveyed King (ieorge's Group, which appeared well inhab-
ited, and have entrances to their lagoons on the west side.
The native names of the two islands are Tiokea and Oura.
Oura bears S. 68° W., distant four and a half miles. Then
the tender passed to Manhii and Ahii, round the north side
of Nairsa, or Dean's Island, to Tahiti.

The two peninsulas, if they may be so termed, of which the
island of Tahiti is made up, are of very different characters.
The smaller one, called Tairaboo, and usually spoken of as
" the small island," is the most fertile.

The whole island is of volcanic formation, but there is no
longer any active igneous action, nor is there any well-de-
fined crater to be seen. Coral reefs, with occasional open-
ings, are attached to the shores, and the larger island (Tahiti)
has also a sea reef. Between the two reefs is an almost con-
tinuous channel for boat navigation, and on the northern side
they enclose many safe and commodious harbors for shipping.
On this side also vessels may pass from harbor to harbor,
within the outer reef. This reef varies in breadth from a few
yards to fifty, or even a hundred. The shore that adjoins
the coral reef is formed of black volcanic sand, occasionally
mixed with comminuted shells, which give it a grayish hue.
Basaltic ridges reach the sea at intervals, and form projecting
points of moderate elevation.

The Porpoise, having been refitted, was sent to sea on the
20th September, 1839, for the purpose of again visiting the
west end of Nairsa, or Dean's Island, with Krusenstern's and
Lazareff. She was also ordered to pass over the supposed
locality of Recreation Island, and then to meet the Vincennes
at Rose Island, the easternmost of the Samoan or Navigator's
Group.

WILKES ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION.

i6t

;he next day
led the facts

lorthward of
Tahitians, for
ases brought
nd. about six
off its south-
be seen from

ad visited and
ed well inhab-
the west side,
^ea and Oura.
• miles. Then
the north side

;d, of which the
ent characters,
y spoken of as

put there is no
re any well-de-
ccasional open-
island (Tahiti)
an almost con-
le northern side
)rs for shipping,
rbor to harbor,
adth from a few
)re that adjoins
nd, occasionally
a grayish hue.
form projecting

nt to sea on the
rain visiting the
•usenstern's and
er the supposed
:t the Vincennes
or Navigator's

The Vincennes moved to the harbor of Papieti on the 2 2d
September. At tlie same time orders were given to the Pea-
cock and Fiying-Fish to take on board their articles from
Point Venus, and to follow as soon as they had done so. The
tender required some repairs, which could be done with more
safety at Papieti. Both vessels joined the Vincennes in that
harbor on the 24th.

Papieti, in whose harbor the ships were lying, is one of the
largest villages on the island ; being the ordinary residence
of the queen, and the abode of the foreign consuls. The for-
eign residents are also for the most part collected here.
Among all its dwellings, the royal residence and the house
of Mr. Pritchard are the only ones which possess the luxury
of glazed windows. The houses of the foreigners are scat-
tered along the beach, or built immediately behind it.

While lying at Papieti the men had an opportunity of see-
ing the manner in which justice is administered in criminal
cases. The court was held in the council-house, an oblong
buildinn: in the native style. The alleged crime was assault
with intention of rape. The judges were seated on mats,
having Paofai, their chief, a little in front of the rest ; and the
audience sat or stood around. The culprit was a petty chief
called Ta-ma-hau, a man of huge size, and apparently some-
what of a bully; he stood during the trial leaning against
one end of the house, with an air of cool indifference. His
accuser was a damsel not remarkable for personal beauty ;
she sat near the door, among a number of other women.
The witnesses were patiently heard, and the matter argued,
after which the six judges severally gave their opinions, and
made remarks on the evidence, to which Paofai listened in an
attentive and dignified manner, expressing, as occasion de-
manded, his assent or dissent. He then pronounced the
verdict of the court, by which the prisoner was acquitted,
but did not dismiss him without a brief and merited castiga-
tion. It appeared, that although not guilty of the crime
alleged, he had, while intoxicated, addressed indecent lan-
guage to his accuser.

After the departure of the Vincennes a party from the Pea-
cock, consisting of Mr. Dana and some others, obtained leave
of absence* from Captain Hudson for five days, with the de-
sign of ascending Mount Aorai. They commenced the ascent
immediately in the rear of Papieti, and by noon on the second

l62

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

" -.

day had reached an elevation of five thousand feet, where
they stood upon a platform about twelve feet square; thence
they looked down eastward two thousand feet into the
Matavai valley ; to die westward they had a j;or<;e about a
thousand feet deep running^ into Toanoa valley; to the south
the platform on which they stood was united by a narrow
ridge with Mount Aorai, which was apparently only a short
distance before them. In this place they were compelled
to pass the nitjht by a fog which enveloped them, through
which the guides were unwilling to lead them, refusing to
proceed farther along the dangerous path until the clouds
should clear away.

The next morning was clear, and they pursued their
ascending route along the edge of a ridge not more than two
or three feet in width, having on each side an abyss two thou-
sand feet deep. Seen from this ridge, looking south, Mount
Aorai seemed a conical peak, but as it was approached it
proved to be a mountain wall, whose edge was turned to-
ward them. The only ascent was by a similar narrow path
between precipices, and surpassed in steepness ose they
had already passed. The width of the crest seldt cceeded
two feet, and in some cases they sat upon it as if on horse-
back, or were compelled to creep along it upon their hands
and knees, clinging to the bushes. At last they reached the
summit, where they found barely room to turn round. The
ridge continued for only a short distance beyond them, being
then cut across by the Punaania valley.

From the summit of Aorai they had a magnificent view ; to
the south it was speedily bounded by the peaks of Orohena
and Pitohiti, whose steep sides rose from the valley beneath
them ; to the east they had the rapid succession of ridge and
gorge which characterizes Tahitian scenery ; to the west, over
a similar series of jagged ridges, Eimeo and Tetuaroa stood
out from the horizon of the sea in bold relief; to the north
they looked down upon the plain, studded with groves of
cocoa-nut and orange, and upon the harbor with its shipping
and the encircling reefs of coral.

A short distance below the summit of Mount Aorai, a
mass of turrets and pinnacles, which from its singular out-
line is called the Crown, runs along the top of a narrow
ledge.

Except the plain of the coast no level land is in sight but

i 11

WII.KES ANTARCric: KXTKniTION.

163

feet, where
larc; thence
:ct into the
)ri;e about a
to the south
by a narrow
only a short
-e compelled
hem, through
1, rel'usuig to
fil the clouds

pursued their
no re than two
Dyss two thou-

south, Mount
approached it
;as turned to-
r narrow path
2SS ^se they
Ick xeeded
as if on horse-
311 their hands

y reached the
round. The
ul them, being

ficent view ; to
vs of Orohena
valley beneath
)n of ridge and

the west, over
Tetuaroa stood
f ; to the north
vith groves ot

ith its shipping

lount Aorai, a
Is singular out-
1p of a narrow

is in sight but

the valley of Piinaania; this is divided from that of Matavai
by a ridge of the usual edge-like form, running upward to-
wards Orohena.

Very few of the natives who are now alive have been on
th(! summit of Aorai ; their paths in this direction, as in other
places, do not lead Ix-yond the limit of the groves of wild
banana (fahie). Pxyond th(i height at which these cease to
grow the ground is chiefly covered with a wiry grass
(Gleichenia), which springs up in many |)laces to the h(Mght
of ten feet, and is everywhere almost impenetrable. When
this was not too high tliey broke it down by casting their
bodies at full length upon it; and when of larger growth they
had recourse to cutting away or breaking its stiff and crowded
stems, until they had formed a way beneath it, whence the
light was almost excluded.

The want of water, which after a few days of dry weather
is seldom found even in the elevated valleys, was an additional
discomfort. It is to be recommended to future travellers in
the mountains of Tahiti to make provision against this incon-
venience. The party was so much distressed from this cause
as to enjoy the ci(;w upon the leaves as a luxury.

Mr. Dana reported that the visit to Aorai conclusively set-
ded one questionable point in the geology of the island. He
found upon its summit neither corals nor " screw-shells,"
which vague rumors have long located on the top of the
Tahitian mountains. Every one who has visited this island
has probably heard that su.ch formations existed in these lofty
positions; but the report rests wholly on native authority.
Moera, the guide who accompanied the party, and who re-
sides near -One-tree Hill, insisted that he had seen both, and
promised to show them. On reaching the summit he began
digging, and the rest of the party aided him. He soon
brought up what he called coral, but which proved to be a
grayish trachytic rock ; and, although he continued to dig for
some time longer, he could find nothing which he could ven-
ture to exhibit as screw-shells.

In their descent from Mount Aorai they followed the west-
ern side of the valley of Papoa, along a narrow ledge similar
to that by which they had ascended. After proceeding for
two hours they reached a small plain, which speedily nar-
rowed to a mere ledge of naked rock with a steep inclina-
tion; this they were compelled to traverse on their hands

1 64

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

|;.i ; r

'K\'

and knees, taking the greatest care to avoid detaching the
rock, which in many places overhung a precipice ; next fol-
lowed a perpendicular descent of about twenty-five feet, down
which they let themselves by ropes ; this difficulty overcome
the rest of the route presented no dangerous features, and
was performed in safety.

On the j-^th of September, 1839, at daylight, the Vincennes
got under way from Eimeo, and made sail to the westward,
passing th Society Island Group, viz. : Sir Charles Saunders'
Is'e, Huaheine, Tahaa, Borabora, Maufili and Moutoiti. All
of these, with the exception of the last, are high lands.

On the 30th they made Bellinghau sen's Island, which is a
low coral island, similar to those which have been already
described. It was uninhabited, and is of a triangular form.

In the afternoon they again made sail to the westward.
On the 6th of October passed near the locality of the Royal
George Shoal, but saw nothing of it.

On the 7th, which was the day appointed for the rendezvous
off Rose Island, they came in sight of it, and at the same time
descried the Porpoise. That vessel had passed by Nairsa or
Dean's Island, and connected the survey of it with that of
Krusenstern's and Lazareff. They are uninhabited, though
occasionally visited by the natives of Nairsa Island. The
position of Recreation Island was passed over, but no signs
of land discovered.

Rose Island, the most eastern of the Samoan Group, was
discovered by Freycinet, who gave it its name. It appears,
at first, like a round knoll of land, but on a nearer approach
this is found to arise from a large clump of Pisonia trees,
similar to those found growing in the low archipelago.

On the 7th they left Rose Island, and at sunrise made the
island of Manua, which is two thousand five hundred feet
above the level of the sea. It has the form of a regular
dome, rising in most places |jrecipitousiy from the water to
the height of three or four hundred feet, after which its ascent
appears more gentle and even. It is sixteen miles in circum-
ference, is well covered with a luxuriant vegetation, and has
many cocoa-nut groves on its northwest side.

On approaching it Oloosinga was in sight and shordy after
Ofoo. These two islands lie to the northwestward at the
distance of about four miles.

The island of Oloosinga is a narrow ledge of rocks, rising

.-♦•If ^

WILKES ANTARCTIC EXrEDITION.

•165

rer, but no signs

of rocks, rising

nearly perpendicular on both sides, and is three miles in
length. So precipitous is it at its ends that it is impossible to
p:iss round it on the rocks. The strip of land is about five
hundred yards in width, on which bread-fruits and cocoa-nuts
grow in great profusion and sufficient :ibundance for all the
wants of the natives.

At daylight on the 1 1 th the Vincennes was near the eastern
end of Tutuila, and off the island of Anuu.

The island of Tutuila is high, broken, and of volcanic ap-
pearance. It is seventeen miles long, and its greatest width
is ^ve miles. The harbor of Pago-pago penetrates into the
centre, and almost divides the island into two parts. It is
less varied in surface than the Society Islands, and its highest
peak, that of Matafoa, was found to be 2,327 feet above the
sea. The spurs and ridges that form the high land are like
those of Tahiti — precipitous, sharp-edged, and frequently rise
in mural walls from the water to a height of three or four
hundred feet, showing the bare basaltic rock. Above this
height the surface is covered with a luxuriant vegetation to
the very top of the mountains ; the cocoanut tree and tree-
fern give the principal character to this beautiful scenery.
Dead coral is seen along the shores above high-water mark.

The harbor of Pago-pago is one of the most singular in all
the Polynesian isles. It is the last point at which one would
look for a place of shelter; the coast near it is peculiarly
rugged and has no appearance of indentations, and the en-
trance being narrow, is not easily observed. Its shape has
been compared to a variety of articles ; that which it most
nearly resembles is a retort. It is surrounded on all sides by
inaccessible mural precipices, from 800 to 1,000 feet in height.
The lower parts of these rocks are bare, but they are clothed
above with luxuriant vegetation. So .impassable did the rocky
barrier appear in all but two places, that the harbor was
likened to the valley of Rasselas changed into a lake. The
two breaks in the precipice are at the head of the harbor and
at the Pilot's Cove. The harbor is of easy access, and its
entrance, which is about a third of a mile in width, is marked
by the Tower Rock and Devil's Point.

The Peacock and Flying-Fish again joined the Vincennes
on the 1 8th of October. Orders were given them to proceed
to Upolu, to commence the survey of that island.

The climate of Tutuila is mild and agreeable, particularly

1 66

ANTARCIIC liXri,OKATION.S.

L I

•i

,, . .1

at Pago-pago, where the temperature is lower than it is else-
where on the island, in consequence oi its generally being
overshadowed with clouils tliat hanijon the hiizli land. There
is usually a fine breeze, which sets in about ten o'clock and
continues until sunset. The nights being calm, much dew
falls in fine weather.

The surveys of the island of Tutuila having been completed
by the 23d of November, on the 25th the Vincennes weighed
anchor. In leaving the harbor she had a narrow escape from
wreck ; the almost constant southeast wind, which is fair to
a vessel entering the bay, and makes it easy of access, is
ahead on going out, which nnders egress difficult; it there-
fore becomes necessary to make frequent tacks, and a vessel
must be well manoeuvred to escape accident, for to miss stays
would be almost certain to bring about shipwreck. When
she set out the wind was light, and it failed altogether just as
she reached the most dangerous part of the channel ; they
were, in consequence, brought within an oar's length of the
reef, on which a heavy surf was breaking. The moment was
a trying one, and the event doubtfiil; all were at their sta-
tions, and not a word was spoken. The crisis was luckily
passed.

The distance between Tutuila and Opolu of thirty-six
miles was soon passed, and in the morning they were de-
lighted with the view of the latter island as they ran down
its coast to the westward. It appears much richer and more
fruitful than the otIuT islands of this group, and may be de-
scribed as of moderate height, rising gradually in a succession
of ridiros from a low shore ; here and there broad and fertile
valleys are see»\ with numerous streams falling from the
mountains in casca^'es. The eastern portion of the island is
much more rugged than the western ; the main ridge runs
east and west, and ridges or spurs run back to it from the
northern coast in a southeast direction. Between these lat-
eral ridges are broad and fertile valleys, decreasing in wic^th
as they recede from the coast. The shore is lined with a
coral reef, which is now and then interrupted by channels, and
forms snug and convenient harbors.

At noon they descried the Peacock lying in the harbor of
Apia, and shortly afterwards Lieutenant Wilkes received a
message from Captain Hudson, saying that his presence was
required on shore. In the hope that it was not a business

It i

WILKES ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION.

167

than it is else-
rencrally bcinj^
ii land. TIktc
en o'clock and
ilm, much dew

been completed
:ennes weij^hed
ow escape from
vhich is fair to
sy of access, is
fficuU; it there
ks, and a vessel
or to miss stays
pwreck. When
together just as
e channel; they
r's length of the
rhe moment was
Kic at their sta-
risis was luckily

)lu of thirty-six
r they were de-

they ran down
richer and more
and may be de-
y in a succession
[broad and fertile
[falling from the
n of the island is
Imain ridge runs
to it from the

tween these lat-

reasing in width
is lined with a

by channels, and

in the harbor of
^ilkes received a
his presence was
not a business

of such a nature as to cause detention, he left the Vincennes
in the offing, while he went asliore in his boat. On reaching
the land he found the chiefs engaged in the trial of a native
calletl Tuvai, who had killed an American named Edward
Cavenaugh, a native of New Bedford.

It appeared that on Captain Hudson's arrival the murderer
was pointed out to him in the village, upon which he very
[)roperIy determined to have the offender punished, and gave
orders> to have him arrested. He was, in consequence, seized
in a house near the water, and carried on board the Peacock.
Captain I ludson then requested a conference with the neigh-
boring chiefs, who, in consequence, had assembled on the
27 th.

The /ono, as such assemblies are called, was held in the
council-house, or fale-tele, were the chiefs were collected.
Captain Hudson stated that the object of his having requested
them to assemble was to bring the accused to a trial before
them, in order that if his guilt were established, he might be
brouglit to condign punishment; he then pointed out to them
the guilt and consequences of the crime of murder, and de-
clared the course he had considered it his duty to adopt.
The chiefs listened attentively to this address, and in reply,
through the principal one, admitted that the man taken was
in reality the guilty p(;rson, a fact known to every person
upon the island. Captain Hudson then stated to them that it
was absolutely necessary that Tuavi should be promptly pun-
ished, in order that others might be deterred from the com-
mission of the same crime. H(; suggested, however, that in
spite of the universal belief in Tuvai's having committed the
crime, it was proper that he should undergo a trial, or at
least an examination, in order that he might have the privi-
lege of being heard in his own defence.

This suggestion being approved, Tuvai was brought on
shore under a military guard, and placed in the centre of the
building. He was an ill-looking fellow of about twenty-eight
years of age, and manifested no fear, but looked about him
with the greatest composure.

The trial was simple enough ; he was first asked by the
chiefs whether he was guilty of the crime, to which he
answered that he was ; being next asked why he had com-
mitted it, he replied that he had done it in order to possess
himself of the man's property (clothes and a knife).

li^'

1 68

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

The chiefs, among whom was Pea, of Apia, to whom the
criminal was distantly related, made every effort in their power
to save his life, stating that he was in darkness, and therefore
unconscious of the guilt of the action when he committed the
murder ; that as they had but just emerged from heathenism,
they ought not to be subjected for past actions to laws they
knew not ; that these laws were made for people who occu-
pied a more elevated station ; that Tuvai was a poor man of
no account, and was not a person of sufficient importance to
be noti(5ed by a great people like us ; that faa Samoa (the
Samoan fashion) did not allow men to be put to death in cold
blood, but that after so long a time had elapsed, as in the
instance before them, it admitted of a ransom.

Pea was seconded in his endeavors by Vavasa, of Manono,
one of the finest looking of the chiefs, whose attitudes and
movements were full of grace, and his manner exceedingly
haughty and bold.

In reply to their arguments. Captain Hudson told them
that nothing but the life of the offender could satisfy the de-
mands of justice, and that they must execute the criminal
themselves. Tiiis announcement caused much excitement.

The chiefs after much reluctance consented, but expressed
great repugnance to an immediate execution.

At this point of the discussion the Vincennes was announced
as being in sight, and the proceedings were suspended. An
officer was immediately despatched, who, as has already been
mentioned, boarded that vessel off the harbor.

When Lieutenant Wilkes landed he found the assembly
anxiously awaiting the result of his arrival. After a full dis-
cussion of the whole subject, they came to the conclusion that
it would be best to transport the criminal to some other
island, for it appeared probable that this would have a better
effect than even his execution, as it would be longer remem-
bered, while to cause him to be put to death might naturally
excite a desire of revenge.

This decision was at once communicated to the chiefs, with
a statement that in conformity with the laws of Tahiti in such
cases, Tuvai should be transported to a desert island, where
he would never again 'have an opportunity of killing a white
man. The chiefs, although evidently relieved from the most
intense part of their distress, were still much affected by this
decision.

WILKES ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION.

169

I whom the
their power
id therefore
emitted the
heathenism,
o laws they
e who occu-
poor man of
iportance to
Samoa (the
death in cold
ed, as in the

t, of Manono,
attitudes and
r exceedingly

on told them
satisfy the de-
i the criminal
excitement,
but expressed

k-as announced
Ispended. An
already been

the assembly
\fter a full dis-
lonclusion that
[o some other
I have a better
longer remem-

light naturally

[he chiefs, with
1 Tahiti in such
island, where
[killing a white
From the most
[ffected by this

The prisoner was then ordered to be taken on board the
Peacock, whither he was followed by a crowd of natives with
many tears and lamentations, among whom his wife was the
most affected.

The island of Manono, '"hose inhabitants exerted such c.n
influence in the closing scenes in the war of Aana, is situated
within the sea-reef of Upolu. It contained eleven hundred
inhabitants, and is covered with forests throughout its whole
extent; its circumference is about four miles.

In spite of its small extent and scanty population, Manono
is identified with the political history of all the other islands
of the group ; for, during the reigns of the two Tamafagos,
it held supremacy over them. The reason of its acquiring
and exercising this political supremacy is principally to be
ascribed to the possession by its inhabitants of the small
island of Apolima, which they used as their " olo " or citadel.
To this retreat, inaccessible except at a single point, the in-
habitants of Manono were in the habit of retiring when pressed
by too powerful an enemy, and when his rage had spent
itself they thence returned to their home with undiminished
numbers.

This natural fortress lies between Manop'^ and Savaii, and
soundings extend to it both from the shores of Upolu and
Savaii. The coral reef attached to it is but small.

Apolima, on the most cursory examination, is evidently the
crater of an extinct volcano. Perpendicular cliffs rise from
the sea around its whole circuit, except at a single point on
its northern side. Here the lip of the crater is broken down,
and admits the water of the sea into a small bay, which affords
a safe harbor for boats. The entrance to this is so narrow as
to admit no more than one boat at a time, and is dangerous
whenever there is any surf. It may, therefore, be easily de-
fended. There is only one other point on the island where
it is possible to effect a landing, namely, at a small height to
the westward of the bay, and here it can only be done when
the water is perfectly smooth. But an enemy landing here
would have made no progress, for before the interior can be
reached from this point the steep and precipitous rocks re-
main to be climbed.

The highest point of Apolima is on its south side, where it
is four hundred and seventy-two feet above the sea. The
perpendicular cliffs which face tlie sea are of course bare of

I70

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

vegetation

If ^i

ii.f

U: li .

I i

but with this exception the whole surface is cov-
ered with cocoa, bread-fruit and other trees, or with planta-
tions of taro, yams, etc.

In the centre of the island is a village of about twenty-
houses, and the permanent population consists of no more
than about seventy-five persons.

By the 9th of November the whole squadron was assem-
bled in the harbor of Apia, after having been actively en-
gaged in examining the different islands ; but in making sur-
veys of the coasts and harbors these examinations extended
to the shores and reefs, which were all minutely surveyed in
boats. The usual observations in astronomy, magnetism and
meteorology, together with full record of the tides, were made
and kept.

On the loth the squadron sailed from Apia to New South
Wales.

On the loth of November they weighed anchor from Apia,
and made all sail to the westward; and on the nth had lost
sight of Savaii.

On the 12th they made Uea or Wallis Island, and later the
same day were off its southern end. Instead of a single island,
as might be expected from the name, there are nine separate
islands, varying in circuit from one to ten miles, and enclosed
with one extensive reef. The land is, in general, high.

On the 1 8th they saw Matthews' Rock, whose height is 1 186
feet. It is of a conical shape about a mile in circumference,
and principally composed of conglomerate. A dike of basalt
was observed occupying about a third of the width of the
island. In order to obtain specimens a boat was despatched
to endeavor to effect a landing ; the undertaking proved diffi-
cult, but was accomplished by Dr. Fox and Midshipman
Henry, who swam through the surf. They brought off some
specimens of porphyritic rock, and a few small crystals of
selenite. Patches were seen on the northern side of the
island, appearing as if covered with sulphur.

On the 26th November the Vincennes made Ball's Pyra-
mid, which appiears to be a barren rock rising abruptly from
the sea.

At sunset on the 29th November she made the light-house
on the headland of Port Jackson. They had a fair wind for
entering the harbor, and although the night was dark, and
they had no pilot, yet as it was important to avoid any loss

i 1

WILKES ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION.

171

■face is cov-
vith planta-

Dout twenty
of no more

was assem-
actively en-
making sur-
)ns extended
' surveyed in
icrnetism and
si were made

New South

or from Apia,
nth had lost

, and later the

1 single island,
nine separate
and enclosed

X high.

Iheightis 11 86
:ircumference,
dike of basalt
. width of the
as despatched

t proved diffi-

Midshipman

light off some

.11 crystals of

n side of the

le Ball's Pyra-
abruptly from

[he light-house
[a fair wind for
Iwas dark, and
lavoid any loss

of time, Wilkes determined to run in. He adopted this
resolution, because, although they were all unacquainted
with the channel, he was assured that the charts in his pos-
session might be depended upon, and they stood on under a
press of sail, accompanied by the Peacock. At 8 p. m. they
found themselves at the entrance of the harbor. At half-past
10 P. M. they quietly dropped anchor off the cove, in the midst
of the shipping, without any one having the least idea of their
arrival.

When the good people of Sidney looked abroad in the
morning they were much astonished to see twc mer of-war
lying among their shipping, which had entered tlie harbor in
spite of the difficulties of the channel, without being reported,
and unknown to the pilots.

The Porpoise and Flying-Fish arrived the next day.

The squadron remained at Sidney until the 26 h of Decem-
ber, 1839, when they weighed anchors and set ai out prepar-
ing the ships for the Antarctic cruise.

The I St of January, 1 840, was one of those days which are
termed, both at sea and on shore, a weather-breeder. The
sea was smooth and placid, but the sky was in places lower-
ing, and had a wintry cast, to which we had long been stran-
gers ; the temperature shortly began to fall, the breeze to in-
crease, and the weather to become misty. In a few hours the
ships were sailing rapidly through the water with a rising sea,
and by midnight it was reported that the tender Flying-Fish
was barely visible. Lieutenant Wilkes shortened sail, but it
was difficult to stop her way ; and on the morning of the 2d
of January the fog was dense, and the Peacock and Porpoise
only were in sight ; the Peacock and Porpoise were ordered to
stand east and west, in order to intercept the tender, but they
returned without success ; the ships also fired guns in hopes
of being heard. In the afternoon Lieutenant Wilkes deemed
it useless to wait any longer for her, and accordingly pro-
ceeded on his course for Macquarie Island with all sail set.
This separation of the tender took place in the latitude of 48°
south. The officers and crew were not slow in assigning to
the Flying-Fish a similar fate with her unfortunate mate, the
Sea-Gull. Men-of-war's men are prone to prognosticate
evil, and on this occasion they were not wanting in various
surmises.

The barometer now began to assume a lower range, and

172

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

ir'A

»i

the temperature to fall below 50°. On the 3d, the fog con-
tinuing very thick, the Peacock got beyond hearing of the
horns, bells, drums and guns, and was parted with.

The morning of the 7th was misty, with squally weather. A
heavy sea rising, and a strong gale setting in, they lost sight
of the Porpoise for a few hours. Being unable to see be-
yond an eighth of a mile it was thought imprudent to run for
fear of passing Macquarie Island, and they hove-to to await its
moderating.

The loth they encountered the first iceberg, and the tem-
perature of the water fell to 32°. They passed close to i.,
and found it a mile long, and one hundred and eighty feet in
height. They had now reached the latitude of 61 ° 8' south, and
longitude 162° 32' east. The second iceberg seen was thirty
miles, and the third about fifty-five miles south of the first.
These ice-islands were apparently much worn by the sea into
cavities, exhibiting fissures as though they were ready to be
rent asunder, and showed an apparent stratification, much in-
clined to the horizon.

The fair wind from the northwest (accompanied with a light
mist, rendering objects on the horizon indistinct) still enabled
them to pursue the course southerly. Icebergs became so
numerous as to compel them occasionally to change their
course. They continued of the same character, with caverns
worn in their perpendicular sides, and with flat tops, but the
latter were now on a line with the horizon. Towards 6 p. m.
of the 1 1 th they began to perceive smaller pieces of ice, some
of which were not more than an eighth of a mile in length,
floating as it were in small patches. As the icebergs in-
creased in number the sea became smoother, and there was
no apparent motion. Between 8 and 9 p. m. a low point of
ice was perceived ahead, and in a short time they passed
within it. There was now a large bay before them.' As the
vessels moved rapidly, at 10.30 p. m. they had reached its
extreme limits, and found their further progress entirely
stopped by a compact barrier of ice, enclosing large square
icebergs. The barrier consisted of masses closely packed,
and of every variety of shape and size. They hove-to until
daylight. The night was beautiful, and everything seemed
sunk in sleep, except the sound of the distant and low rust-
ling of the ice, that now and then met the ear. They had
now reached the latitude of 64° 11' south, longitude 164° 30*

WILKES ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION.

^7Z

the fog con-
aring of the

:h.

weather. A
ley lost sight
e to see be-
int to run for
to to await its

and the tem-
d close to i.,
eighty feet in
° 8' south, and
sen was thirty
:h of the first.
)y the sea into
•e ready to be
ition, much in-

ied with a light
:t) still enabled
rgs became so
) change their
r, with caverns
. tops, but the
owards 6 p. m.
;es of ice, some
mile in length,
iC icebergs in-
and there was
, low point of
e they passed
them.' As the
lad reached its
igress entirely
r large square
•losely packed,
>y hove-to until
•ything seemed
,t and low rust-
jar. They had
igitude 164° 30^

east, and found the variation twenty-two degrees easterly.
One and all felt disappointed, for they had flattered them-
selves that the way was open for further progress to the
southward, and had imbibed the impression that the season
would be an open one. What surprised him most was a
change in the color of the water to an olive-green, and some
faint appearances resembling distant land ; but as it was
twilight, and he did not believe the thing credible, he put
no faith in these indications, although some of the officers
were confident they were not occasioned by icebergs. The
barometer stood at 29.200 in. ; the temperature of the air 33°,
water 32°. They lay-to until four o'clock. As it grew light,
on the 1 2th, a fog set in so thick that they lost sight of the
Porpoise, and could not hear any answer to the signals and
therefore determined to work along the barrier to the west-
ward.

They were all day beating in a thick fog with the barrier
of ice close to them, and occasionally in tacking brought it
under their bow ; at other times they were almost in contact
with icebergs. During the whole day they could not see at
any time farther than a quarter of a mile, and seldom more
than the ship's length. The fog, or rather thick mist, was
formincT in ice on the riofeine. From the novelty of the situa-
tion, and the excitement produced by it, they did not think
of the danofer.

We shall now leave the Vincennes and Porpoise pursuing
their course to the westward with a head wind, and bring
the Peacock up to the barrier.

Previously to parting company on the 3d of January the
crew of the Peacock had also been engaged in building hurri-
cane-houses, caulking and chintzing, to secure them from the
wet and cold. After parting company Captain Hudson im-
mediately steered for the first rendezvous, Macquarie Island,
and was more fortunate in reaching it, although the Peacock
had experienced the same kind of weather, and currents set-
ting to the eastward.

On approaching the island they discovered large patches
of kelp, and saw numerous Procellaria and albatrosses about
the ship. On the loth ot January they made the island, and
observed a reef of rocks extending three-quarters of a mile
off its south end. Passing within a short distance of it they
did not observe any of the signals of the squadron flying, as

174

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

they had anticipated. They, notvvithstandinf^, stood in, low-
ered a boat and despatched several officers to put up the sigf-
nal, make experiments and collect specimens. The boat
approached an indentation on the west side, too open to be
called a bay, and found that the surf was rupninq^ hi<;h, nnd
beating with great violence against the rocks, which together
with the kelp rendered it dangerous to attempt landing.
They made for several other places which looked favorable
at a distance, but on approaching them they were found even
less accessible. The boat then returned to the first place to
make another attempt, which was attended with great diffi-
culty. The boat's anchor was dropped, and she was backed
in with great caution to the edge of the rollers; the surf was
very high, and rolled in with a noise like thunder, breaking
furiously upon the rocks, so as to make the boat fairly trem-
ble, and threatening every moment to overwhelm her; once
or twice she was prevented from getting broadside-to, by
hauling out towards the anchor. At length, after a dozen
fruitless attempts, and awaiting a favorable opportunity, Mr.
Eld and a quartermaster succ^^eded in getting ashore, but not
without being immersed up to their breasts. It was found
impossible to land any instruments ; and the quartermaster
was despatched to erect the necessary signals, while Mr. Eld
proceeded to visit the penguin rockery not far distant. On
approaching the island it had appeared to be covered with
white spots : these excited conjecture ; but after landing the
exhalations rendered it not long doubtful that it was birdlime
(guano).

On the 13th, in latitude 61° 30' S., longitude 161° 5' E., the
first ice-islands were seen.

There was no occasion on the night of the 13th to light
the binnacle-lamps, as newspaper print could be read with
ease at midnight. On the 14th, while still making much
progress to the south, and passing occasionally icebergs and
brash-ice, the water appeared somewhat discolored.

On the 15 th the Peacock passed many ice-islands. Many
whales were seen ; albatrosses, petrels, and Cape pigeons
were frequent about the ship. At four p. m. the mist raised
a little, and to their surprise they saw a perfect barrier of ice,
extending to the southwest, with several large icebergs en-
closed within it. Shortly after they discovered a sail, which
proved to be the Porpoise.

I
ill

1 i

WILKES ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION.

175

.d in, low-
up the sigC"
Thc boat
open to be
rr hicrh, and
zh together
pt landing,
d favorable
found even
irst place to .
great diffi-
was backed
he surf was
er, breaking
fairly trem-
11 her; once
idside-to, by
ter a dozen
ortunity, Mr.
hore, but not
It was found
uartermaster
,hile Mr. Eld
distant. On
covered with
r landing the
was birdlime

61° 5'E., the

T3th to light
be read with
laking much
icebergs and

•ed.

ands. Many
ape pigeons

J mist raised

barrier of ice,
icebergs en-
a sail, which

The Vincennes and Porpoise were left near the icy barrier,
separated Ijy the fogs and mists that prevailed at times. The
Porpoise, on the 13'th, in latitude 65° 8' S., longitude 163° E.,
discovered several sea-elephants on the ice. From the
numerous sea-elephants and the discoloration of the water
and ice, they were strongly impressed with the idea of land
being in the vicinity, but on sounding with one hundred
fathoms no bottom was found ; Lieutenant-Commandant
Ringgold felt convinced, from the above circumstances, and
the report that penguins were heard, that land was near, and
thought he could discern to the southeast somethincf like dis-
tant mountams. A nearer approach was impossible, as they
were then in actual contact with the icy barrier.

On the 14th two sea-elephants were captured and brought
on board ; they proved to be the Phoca proboscidea.

On the 15th the Peacock and Porpoise were in company;
and, after having had communication with each other, the
vessels again separated, standing on opposite tacks.

On the i6th the three vessels were in longitude I57°46'E.,
and all within a short distance of each other. The water was
much discolored, and many albatrosses, Cape pigeons, and
petrels were seen about the ships. On board the Vincennes,
they sounded with two hundred and thirty fathoms and found
no bottom ; the water had the appearance of an olive-green
color, as if but forty and fifty fathoms deep.

On this day (16th of January) appearances believed at the
time to be land were visible from all the three vessels, and
the comparison of the three observations, when taken in con-
nection with the more positive proofs of its existence after-
wards obtained, had left no doubt that the appearance was
not deceptive. From this day they date the discovery which
is claimed for the squadron.

On board the Peacock it appears that Passed-Midshipmen
Eld and Reynolds both saw the land from the mast-head and
reported it to Captain Hudson : he was well satisfied on ex-
amination that the appearance was totally distinct from that
of ice-islands, and a majority of the officers and men were
also satisfied that if land could exist that was it.

On board the Porpoise Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold
states that " he went aloft in the afternoon, the weather being
clear and fine, the horizon good, and clouds lofty ; that he saw
over the field-ice an object, large, dark, and rounding, resem-

176

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

iii,

♦ :

bling a mountain in the distance ; the icebergs were all light
and brilliant, and in great contrast." He goes on to say, in
his report, '* I watched for an hour to set if the sun in his de-
cline would change the color of the object: it remained the
same, with a white cloud above, similar to that hovering over
high land. At sunset the appearance remained the same. I
took the. bearings accurately, intending to examine it closely
as soon as we got a breeze. I am thoroughly of opinion it is
an island surrounded by immense fields of ice. The Peacock,
in sight to the southward and eastward over the ice ; the sun
set at a few minutes before ten ; soon after a light air from
the soutinvard, with a fog-bank arising, which quickly shut
out the field-ice."

On the 2 2d the Peacock and Porpoise were again in sight
of each other.

On that day the Vincennes passed the place through which
the Peacock entered on the 23d, and found no opening. To
judge from the manner in which the ice moved during the
time the Peacock was enclosed in it, he was inclined to as-
cribe the alternate opening and closing of the passage into
the bay to a tide setting along this coast. In support of this
opinion it is sufficient to state that the strength of the winds
experienced on board the vessel was at no time sufficient to
account for the manner in which the ice was found to move.

About thirty miles to the westward of this point the \^in-
cennes passed a remarki.Lle collection of tabular icebergs that
probably were attached to a rocky islet, which formed a nucleus
to which they adhered. It was quite obvious that they had
not been formed in the place where they were seen, and must,
therefore, have grounded, after being adrift.

On the 23d of January, after passing around this group of
icebergs, the sea was found comparatively clear, and a large
open space showed itself to the southward. Into this space
the course of the Vincennes was immediately directed. While
thus steering to the south the appearance of land was ob-
served on either hand, both to the eastward and westward.

Pursuing this course the Vincennes by midnight reached
the solid barrier, and all approach to the land on the east and
west was entirely cut off by the close packing of the icebergs.
The commander was, therefore, reluctantly compelled to re-
turn, not a little vexed that he was again foiled in his endeavor
to reach the antarctic continent. This was a deep indentation

WILKF.S ANTARCTIC KXI'i: DI HON.

re all light
n to say, in
m in his de-
;niained the
vering over
:he same. I
ne it closely

opinion it is
The Peacock
ice; the sun
licrht air from

quickly shut

agam

sight

through which
opening. To
ed during the
inclined to as-
e passage into
support of this
rh of the winds
le sufficient to
und to move,
point the Vin-
ir icebergs that
irmed a nucleus
: that they had
[seen, and must,

^ this group of
lar, and a large
llnto this space
directed. While
If land was ob-
iid westward,
[idnight reached
Ton the east and
of the icebergs.
)mpelled to re-
in his endeavor
leep indentation

.177

in the coast about twenty-five miles wide : we explored it to
the depth of al)out fifteen miles, and did not reach its termin-
ation. This bay was called Disappointment Hay: it is in lati-
tude 67° 4' 30" S., longitude 147^30' K. I'he weather was
remarkably fine, with a bracing air: the thermometer in the
air 22°, in the water 31°.

The next day, 24th, the ship stood out of the bay and con-
tinued its course to the westward.

The Vincennes remained in the Antarctic sea up to the
2 1 St of February, and then Lieutenant Wilkes, feeling satis-
fied that a further continuance in this icy region would not
only be attended with peril to the ship, but would cause a
waste of the time which was demanded by his other duties,
and having nearly three thousand miles to sail to the next
port (Bay of Islands), made up his mind to turn the head of
the vessel northward.

He therefore had the officers and crew called aft, thanked
them all for their exertions and good conduct during the try-
ing scenes they had gone through, congratulated them on the
success that had attended them, and informed them that he
had determined to bear up and return north.

On the 2 2d of January, 1840. the Porpoise lost sight of the
Peacock, and continued beatinqf to the southwest. The
weather was extremely cold ; sea-water froze on being a few
minutes in the bucket on deck. Some shrimps were caught.
The water at three p. m. was much discolored ; got a cast of
the lead with two hundred fathoms: no bottom; found the
current south by east, three-fourths of a mile per hour.
Later they passed large icebergs, one of which had several
dark horizontal veins, apparently of earth, through it; large
quantities of floe and drift-ice to the southward; the sea very
smooth. A report of high land was made this morning ; in-
deed everything indicated the proximity of land. The
number of seals, whales, penguins, shrimps, etc., had very
much increased. The pure white pigeons were also seen in
numbers.

Countless icebergs in sight; the sea quite smooth; not the
slightest motion perceptible. At meridian they were in lati-
tude 66° 44' S., longitude 151° 24' E., and close to the barrier,
which appeared quite impenetrable, as far as the eye could
reach from aloft, to the north-northwest and north-northeast,
with numberless immense ice-islands entangled and enclosed

178

ANIAKCriC KXPLORAIIONS.

in it in all directions. The position they occupied seemed an
inlet of elliptical sliaj^', with an openino; to the north. It was
needless to count the many scatterinj^ islands of ice distinct
from the vast chain ; intermingled with field-ice, they studded
the 'fj^uW like so many islands of various shapes and dimen-
sions. At 2 hrs. 25 nun. on the following day a sail was dis-
covered on the lee-bow ; kept off to communicate, supposing
it to be the Vincennes or Peacock.

On the 30th, after experiencing a severe gale, they stood
again to the soutinvest ; at two a. m. they made the barrier of
field-ice, extending from southeast to west, when it became
necessary to haul more to the northwest ; the weather becom-
ing thick with a heavy fall of snow, at four o'clock, the wind
increasing, compelled them to shorten sail ; at 7 hrs. 30 min,
the ice in fields was discovered close aboard, heading west ;
at this time hauled immediately on a wind to the northeast,
and soon passed out of sight of the ice and out of danger;
during the day blowing a gale of wind, and very heavy sea
running, passed occasional Ice-islands ; at meridian, being clear
of the barrier, the brig was hove to under storm-sails to
await the clearing of the weather. In the afternoon the
weather showed signs of clearing; the sun coming out again
made sail to approach the barrier; no ice in sight; great
nupibers of black petrels about.

At four r, m. they discovered a ship ahe^ad, ai 1 shortly after
another was made, both standing to the northward ; the brig
hauled up to the northwest, intending to cut them off ancl
speak them, supposing them to be the Vincennes and the
Peacock ; shortly afterwards they were seen to be strangers,
being smaller sh^ps ; at 4 hrs. 30 min. the Porpoise hoisted
her colors. Knowing that an English squadron under Cap-
tain Ross was expected in these seas, Lieutenant-Commanil-
ant Ringgold took them for his ships, and was, as he says.
" preparing to cheer the discoverer of tne North Magnetic
Pole."

" Later in the day, being within a mile and a half, the
strangers showed French colors ; the leeward and sternmost
displayed a broad pennant. They concluded now that they
must be the French discovery ships under Captain D'Urville :
desirous of speaking and exchanging the usual and customary
compliments incidental to navy life he closed with the
strangers, desiring to pass within hail under the flag-ship's

WII.KES ANTARCTIC KXFEDITION.

secm<-tl an
,rth. It was

ice distinct
;hcy stiuUU'cl

and dimen-
sail was dis-
te, supposing;

le, they stood

die barrier ot

en it became

-ather beconi-

lock. the wind

7 hrs. 30 nun.

l-K>ading west ;

the northeast,

:>ut of danger ;

^rery heavy sea

ian. being clear
storm-sails to
afternoon the

hiin»4 out again

in sight; great

IV 1 shortly after
ward ; the brig
t them off and
^ennes and the
be strangers,
[orpoise hoisted
ron under Cap-
lant-Command-

?as, as he says,
[orth Magnetic

land a half, the
I and sternmost

I now that they
IptainD'Urville:

II and customary
llosed with the
Ir the flag-ships

stern. While gaining fast, and being within musket-shot, his
intentions too evident to excite a doubt, so far from any re-
ciprocity being evinced, he saw with surprise sail making by
boarding the main tack on board the flag-ship. Without a
moment's delay he iiauled down the colors and bore up on his
course before the wind.

On the 14th of February Lieutenant-Commandant Ring-
gold, having passed a few degrees beyond his instructions,
that is, having reached iongitutle 100° K., and latitude 64°
15' S., now commenced his return, in order to examine those
places in the barrier which he had been prevented from doing
on his way west.

On the 1 6th and 17th they were employed in getting lo
the eastward, passing many worn and shattered bergs. On
the evening of the latter tlay they had another exhibition of
the aurora australis, extending from north-northwest to east;
it was of a light straw color, but very indistinct; the luminous
bank was at an elevation of 30°. The light in the northwest
was most distinct, ratiiating from a nucleus above the horizon
towards the zenith, where it formed a beautiful halo. It was
not of long duration. Many ice-islands and bergs in sight;
upwards of two huntlred, nearly all of a tabular form — the
sides of many of them beautifully excavated by the waves,
presenting innumerable Gothic arches, extending often to a
considerable distance into the body of the ice.

Their position on the i8th was in longitude 114° 17' E.,
latitude 62° 37' S. Flocks of blackbirds were very numerous,
but not near enough to be taken.

On the 19th and 20th, proceeding to the eastward. On
the 20th they had but few ice-islands in sight, although they
were seventy miles farther south than on the i8th, when the
largest number ever seen by them at one time was visible;
having reached the k)ngitude of 1 20° E., they again steered
south, to make the barrier. The current was tried, but none
found.

The 2ist proved stormy, with strong breezes from the
southeast, and much snow and rain, which covered the brig
with ice. Field-ice was seen ahe?^d when they again stood
to the eastward, longitude being 121° 30' E., latitude 65° 15'
S. On this night they experienced a heavy gale, during
which the barometer fell to 27.50 in., where it remained
during part of the 2 2d. The squalls were very severe,

iiO:

i^i;

;:flr

Ins;;:

\¥

p ..I

1 80

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

accompanied with snow, sleet, hail, and heavy seas ; they had
nov reached longitude 122° E., and latitude 64° 9' S.

February 2 2d, being Washington's birthday, the colors
were hoisted, and the crew received an extra allowance,
Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold took this occasion to ex-
press to them his satisfaction for the manner in which they
had performed their duties during the present cruise, and
that their conduct would be duly represented to the com-
mander of the expedition, and the government.

On the 23d the weather was again thick, with snow and
mist.

On the 24th they had reached longitude 1 26° E., and lati-
tude 64^ 29' S. On this day they again sighted the barrier ;
when, having completed what he deemed a full execution of
his instructions, Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold deter-
mined to put the brig's head north, which was accordingly
done.

Strong winds and gales continued for the next three days.
On the 27th they again found themselves in east variation, in
longitude 138° E., latitude 60° 8' S, The white albatross had
now ajrain become common.

On the 29th of February they had a beautiful display of
the aurora australis ; the whole southern hemisphere was
covered with arches of a beautiful straw color, from which
streamers radiated, both upwards and downwards, of almost
a lustrous white ; numbers of concentric arches would occa-
sionally show themselves, of a width of a few feet, uniting to
form a complete canopy for a moment, and then vanish.
The arches extended from east-southeast to west-northwest;
the display continued for over two hours ; the stars were seen
above them. Previous to, and during its continuance, the
thermometer indicated a change of four degrees, and the wind
shifted to the southward.

On the I St of March, in latitude 55° S., and longitude 140°
E., they passed the last ice-island.

On the 5th of March the Lord Auckland Isles were
descried. Immense numbers of albatrosses were about. The
aurora was again seen in the southern hemisphere.

On the 7th they anchored in the harbor of Sarah's Bosom,
in twelve fathoms water. During their brief stay here, all
were actively employed wooding and watering, for which this
harbor affords a fine opportimity.

1^'

WILKES ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION.

i8i

On the 9th of March they had finished, and were prepared
for sea, but the weather was threatenintj and caused them to
delay. The magnetic dip was found to be j^t^ 47' 30" S.

A whaler, under Portuguese colors, but commanded by an
Englishman, arrived, and anchored in Lawrie"s Cove, to await
the coming of the whales ! The night proved stormy; the
wind at 10 hrs. 30 min. from the northeast, blowing very
heavy in puffs. Towards noon it moderated ; later they got
under way, with a light breeze from the northwest, and stood
to sea.

On the 1 2th no current was found; latitude 49° 27' S.,
longi' ide 168° 13' E. The weather experienced from this
port to New Zealand was very similar to that in passing from
Cape Horn to Valparaiso : northerly winds with mist and fog
prevailing, with a heavy sea. On the 17th they fell in with
the whale-ship Mary and Martha, of Plymouth, Coffin, master,
who informed them that there were at least one hundred
whale-ships cruising in the neighboring seas; of tiicse several
were seen. This will give some idea of the number of ves-
sels employed, and how great a capital is engaged in this
business.

On the 1 8th they had a gale from north-northwest, which
lasted through the day. moderating at sunset. They were in
latitude 43° 2' S., longitude by chronometer, 175° 24' P^. The
barometer sank to 29.30 in. A current was experienced set-
ting northwest, in the direction of Cook's Straits.

On the 26th they reached and anchored in the river Kawa-
Kawa, in the ay of Islands, off the American consul's, about
three miles above its mouth. Many vessels were passed
lying at anchor off the town of Kororarika. Here they found
the tender P""lying-Fish ; all well.

CHAPTER VIII.

'i'lft^r

! I

WILKES" ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION — (Continued).

The Vincennes — Departure fro.. Sydney —New Zealand — The Bay of Islands — Tongata-
boo — The Feejee Grouii — Rewa — Cannibalism at Soniu-Somu — Death of Lieutenant
Underwood and Midshipman Wilkes Henry — The Squadron parts Company — Passage
of the Vincennes to the Island of Oahu — M'Kean's Island — Arrival at Oahu — Arrival
of the Peacock and Porpoise at Oahu — Vatoa, or Turtle Island — Visiting the Hawaiian
Islands — Departure from Oahu — Expedition up the Columbia River, Oregon — Nisqually
— Loss of the Pticock — San Francisco and Manilla — Singapore — Table Bay.

Having replenished his stores of provisions, Lieutenant
Wilkes took a final leave of his friends at Sydney. The Vin-
cennes weiorjied anchor on the 19th of March, and bade adieu
to these hospitable shores. The Peacock, not having com-
pleted her repairs, was left at Sydney for a few days, with
orders to follow to Tonga taboo.

At daylight op the 30th he made Cape Brett, and after
groping his way through the dark, into the Bay of Islands,
anchored in the Kawa-Kawa river, opposite the residence of
Mr. Clendon, the American consul. Here the commander
had the satisfaction to find the Porpoise and Flying-Fish,
and received the reports of their cruises.

Having completed such repairs as were necessary, the
Vincennes, with the Porpoise and Flying-Fish in company,
sailed from the Bay of Islands on the 6th of April, 1 840, for
Tongataboo.

The islands of Tongataboo and Eooa are the two souffiern
islands of the Hapai Group (the Friendly Isles of Cook) ; the
former is a low, level island, while that of Eooa is high. The
highest part of Tongataboo is only sixty feet above the level
of the sea, while that of Eooa rises about six hundred feet ;
the strait between them is eight milts wide. Tonga is ex-
tremely fruitful, and covered with foliage, while that of Eooa
is rocky and barren.

At daylight on the 4th of May, 1840, the squadron got
under way from the harbor of Nukualofa, and passed with
(182)

WILKES ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION.

■83

ands— Tongata-
I of Lieutenant
npany— Passage
Oahu— Arrival
ig the Hawaiian
egon— NisquaUy
Bay.

Lieutenant
, The Vin-

bacle adieu
laving com-
V days, with

t, and after
of Islands,
residence of
commander
Flying-Fish,

cessary, the
in company,
ril, 1 840, for

wo sou

them

Cook) ; the
; high. The
)ve the level
mdred feet;
'onga is ex-
hat of Eooa

quadron got
I passed with

safety through the reefs. At meridian, Honga Tonga and
Honga Hapai were to the north ; these are both high, and are
distant from Tonga twenty-seven miles.

At 6 A. M. Lieutenant Wilkes made signal to the Porpoise
10 part company.

On the 7th they found themselves in the midst of a number
of beautiful islands, viz. : Goro, Vanua-levu, and Somu-somu
on the right; Nairai, Ambatiki, and Matuku on the left;
whilst Ovolau, Wakaia, and Mokungai were in front ; they
were all girt by white encircling reefs.

Each island had its own peculiar beauty, but the eye as
well as mind felt more satisfaction in resting upon Ovolau,
which had more of the appearance of civilization about it than
the others ; it is also the highest, most broken, and most pic-
turesque.

The remarkable peculiarity of these coral harbors is, that
in gaining them, it is but an instant from the time the sea is
left until security is found equal to that of an artificial dock;
this is particularly the case with the harbor of Levuka. The
shore was lined with natives, watching the ships' progress
with their usual curiosity; and it was amusing to hear the
shouts of applause that emanated from the crowds on shore,
when they witnessed the men, dressed all in white, running
up the rigging to furl the sails.

The Peacock left Levuka on the 1 5th of May, and reached
Rewa at noon the next day, for the purpose of visiting that
town and inducing the king of Rewa to sign the Feejee regu-
lations, and also to carry on the surveys in that quarter.

The harbor of Rewa is formed by two small islands, called
Nukalou and Mukalou, with their attached coral reefs, and
has three passages into it. The two southern ones are safe,
though narrow, but the northern one is much obstructed with
coral lumps. The port is a secure one, and the anchorage,
which is off the island of Nukalou, is about six miles from the
town of Rewa, which is situated on a low piece of land, which
the river, passing on each side of it, has formed into an
island.

The town of Rewa, though in a low situation, has a pic-
turesque though singular appearance. It extends about a
mile along the river, and contains from five to six hundred
bouses of all sizes, from the lofty mbures (temples) with their
pointed roofs, and the barn-like edifices of the chiefs, to the

1 84

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

rickety shanties of the kai-sis, and the diminutive yam-houses,
perched on four posts, to protect the yams from the depreda-
tions of the rats. It is everywhere intersected by narrow
lanes, closely shut in with high reed fences.

On the 7th of June the Vincennes sailed from Vuna Island,

Somii-somu, although one of the chief towns of Feejee,
acknowledges a sort of subjection io Ambau,, The town of
Somu-somu contains about two hundred houses, which are
more straggling than any yet seen. It is partly built below
a bluff, which affords a very safe retreat and strong defence
to its inhabitants, and is divided, therefore, into a lower and
upper town. The old mbure near the missionaries' house is
nearly gone to decay. Here was found the only carved im-
age that could be seen in the group ; it was a small figure cut
out of solid wood, and the missionaries did not seem to think
that it was regarded by the people with any reverence. The
priest appears to have taken up his abode with the old king,
and was apparently held in great reverence.

The town is situated on the northwest side of the island of
Vuna, which is separated from the island of Vanua-levu, or
the large land, by a strait five miles wide in its narrowest
part, which Lieutenant Wilkes called the Strait of Somu-
somu. The island of Vuna rises gradually to a central ridge,
the height of which, by several measurements, was found to
be two thousand and fifty-two feet. The summit is generally
covered with clouds. From its gradual rise, and its surface
being smoother, it is susceptible of a much higher state of
cultivation than the other islands; the soil is a rich reddish
loam, and it appears to be considered as the most fruitful of
the islands. At the same time, its inhabitants are acknowl-
edged by all to be the most savage. Cannibalism prevails
here to a greater extent than anywhere else.

The length of Vuna is twenty-five miles, and its breadth
five miles.

Lieutenant Wilkes dined, and spent the afternoon with the
missionaries and their ladies, and heard a recital of some of
the trials they have been subjected to.

On the nth of February, 1840, one of their servants in-
formed them that the king had sent for two dead men from
Lauthala, a town or koro not far from Somu-somu. On in-
quiring the reason, he knew of none but that the king was
angry ; this was sufificient to know, and in some degree pre-

WILKES ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION.

185

yam-houses,

he depreda-

by narrow

y/'una Island.
3 of Feejee.
rhe town of
s, which are
r built below
-ong defence

a lower and
ries' house is
y carved ini-
lall figure cut
seem to think
erence. Ihe

the old king,

f the island of

^anua-levu, or
its narrowest

■ait of Somu-
central ridge,
was found to

\it is generally
md its surface
igher state of
a rich reddish
ost fruitful of
are acknowl-
.alism prevails

id its breadth

Irnoon with the
Ital of some ot

lir servants in-
lead men from

3omu. On in-
the king was

le degree pre-

pared them for what they shortly afterwards had to witness.
They now found that their servant was only partly informed,
for, instead of two men, they soon observed eleven brought
in, and knew that a feast was to take place. The mission-
aries, Messrs. Hunt and Lythe, went to the old king, to urge
him to desist from so barbarous and horrid a repast, and
warned him that the time would come when he would be
punished for it. The king referred them to his son, but the
savage propensities of the latter rendered it impossible to
turn him from his barbarous purposes.

On the day of the feast the shutters of their houses were
closed, in order to keep out the disgusting smell that would
ensue, but Mr. Hunt took his station just within his fence, and
witnessed the whole that followed. The victims were dragged
along the ground with ropes around their necks by these
merciless cannibals, and laid, as a present to the king, in the
front of the missionaries' house, which is direcdy opposite the
king's square, or public place of the town. The cause of the
massacre was, that the people of Lauthala had killed a man
belonofin"" to the kini^f's koro, who was doinof some business
for the king ; and, notwithstanding the people of Lauthala
are related to the king, it was considered an unpardonable
offence, and an order was criven to attack their town. The
party that went for this purpose came upon the unsuspecting
village when they were neither prepared for defence nor
flight, or, as they described it to Mr. Hunt, "at the time the
cock crows, they open their eyes and raise their h°ads from
sleep, they rushed in upon them, and clubbed them to death,"
without any regard to rank, age, or sex. All shared the same
fate, whether innocent or guilty. A large number were eaten
on the spot. No report makes this less than thirty, but
others speak of as many as three hundred. Of these it is not
our intention to speak, but only of what was done with the
eleven presented to the king and spirit.

The utmost order was preserved on this occasion, as at
their other feasts, the people approaching the residence of
the king with every mark of respect and reverence, at the
beat of the drum. When human bodies are to be shared, the
king himself makes a speech, as he did on this occasion. In
it he presented the dead to his son, and intimated that the
gods of Feejee should be propitiated, that they might have
rain, etc. The son then rose and publicly accepted the gift,

i86

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

\fi

*i' !■

■\'i-

:;^lt

«^1' ii-i/ll

after which the herald pronounced aloud the names of the
chiefs who were to have the bodies. The different chiefs take
the bodies allotted to them away to their mbures, there to be
devoured.

The chief of Lauthala was given to their principal god,
whose temple is near the missionaries' house. He was cut
up and cooked two or three yards from their fence, and Mr.
Hunt stood in his yard and saw the operation. He was much
struck with the skill and despatch with which these practised
cannibals performed their work. While it was going on, the
old priest was sitting in the door of his temple giving orders,
and anxiously looking for his share. Some of those who
joined in the feast acknowledged that the people of Lauthala
were their relations, and he fully believes that they cooked
and ate them because they were commanded to do so.

After all the parts but the head had been consumed, and
the feast was ended, the king's son knocked at the mission-
aries* door (which was opened by Mr. Hunt), and demanded
why their windows were closed ? Mr. Hunt told him to keep
out the sight as well as the smell of the bodies that were
cooking. The savage instantly rejoined, in the presence of
the missionaries' wives, that if it happened again, he would
knock them in the head and eat them.

The Porpoise and the Vincennes next made surveys of the
Espem group, and arrived off Laxemba on the 15th of June.
A few days later the great Argo Reef was explored, where
the brig Argo and another vessel had been lost.

At Lakemba there are about fifty resident Christians, nearly
all of whom are Tongese, of whom about one-third of the
population is composed ; and they have literally taken pos-
session of the island, for they never work, but subsist on the
labor of the Feejee population, who hold them in much awe.
The difference between the two races was as striking here as
at Ovolau.

Lakemba is the largest island in the eastern group. It is
five miles in diameter; its shape is nearly round, with an ex-
tensive encircling reef.

The people of this island seemed to be far from healthy ;
pulmonary diseases were common and often fatal, and an un-
sightly scrofulous affection appeared to be quite prevalent.

This island is the principal location of the Levukians, the
first settlers of Ambau. They live in a village which is

of the
2fs take
re to be

)al god,
was cut
ind Mr.
as much
)ractised
T on, the
T orders,
lose who
Lauthala
y cooked

med, and
niission-
lemanded
n to keep
that were
2sence of
he would

ys of the
n of June,
ed, where

,ns, nearly
,rd of the
|aken pos-
iist on the
nuch awe.
\g here as

)up. It is
nth. an ex-
healthy ;
ind an un-
ivalent,
ikians, the
which is

WILKES ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION.

187

denominated Levuka, and have the character at Lakemba of
being a wandering, faithless tribe, addicted occasionally to
piracy. This is not considered the case elsewhere, for the
Feejee men in general look upon them as a useful class, and
through them they carry on the trade between the different
islands.

Lakemba was found, like the rest of this group, to be of
volcanic formation. The soil is similar to that of Vanua,
composed of a dark red loam. The island in point of fertility
will compare with any of the others, and exceeds all those of
the southeast in size and productiveness. It has rich valleys,
or rather ravines, gradually rising and contracting until they
reach the hills. Extensive groves of cocoanuts cover its
shores and low lands, and add much to its beauty.

The Porpoise proceeded to the islands of Naiau and Ta-
butha, both north of Lakemba.

The islands of Aro, Chichia, Mango, Vekai, Katafanga, and
the reef of Malevuvu, as well as the other exploring islands,
were then visited and surveyed. They are all small, and lie
to the north of Tabutha.

The Peacock and the Vincennes also visited and surveyed
some of these islands.

On the 1 7th, in company with the Porpoise and boats, the
Vincennes passed over to Yendua Island ; after finishing the
survey of it, she stood over for Round Island, the most north-
ern of the Asaua or Western Group.

Lieutenant Wilkes continued his surveys of the Asaua
Group, consisting of the islands of Ya-asaua, Androna, Yan-
gata, Naviti, Eld, Fox, Agate, Sinclair, including Malolo and
Underwood Group. These islands, excepting the latter
group, are all high, and broken into many volcanic peaks,
forming many picturesque islands. They were inhabited by
a very wild set, who were even looked upon with great dread
by the rest of the group, from the frequent excursions they
make upon the larger islands.

Linthicum Island, one of the Underwood Group, Lieutenant
Wilkes occupied as a principal and last station, on the 24th,
towards five o'clock in the afternoon.

While he was congratulating himself that he had now fin-
ished the survey, it was reported to him that the three boats
were in sight, coming down before the breeze. So unusual an
occurrence at once made him suspect that some accident had

;; I

1 88

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

': .*/■;

i,i; ;{•

y.;.;

occurred; and on the first sight he goi of them he found that
their colors were half-mast and Union down. He learned
that a horrible massacre had but a short hour before taken
place, and saw the mutilated and bleeding bodies of Lieuten-
ant Joseph A. Underwood and Midshipman Wilkes Henry.

The boats were taken in tow, and as the night closed in
they anchored in its eastern Bay of Malolo.

On the 2 2d of July the first cutter of the Vincennes, Lieu-
tenant Alden and Midshipman Henry, and the Leopard, Lieu-
tenant Underwood, left the station at Eld Island, and pro-
ceeded along the right side of Waia, for the purpose of
surveying the small islands lying north of Malolo. This done,
they had instructions to join the tender, or Porpoise, on the
western side of that island, and survey such islands as they
might fall in with on the way. After passing Waia, the
boats anchored for the night under one of the small islands.

The next day they werr mployed in the survey of the
small islands, and in t?:e evening anchored in the bay on the
east side of Malolo, formed by it and Malolo-lai-lai, or Litde
Malolo.

On reaching this place. Lieutenant Alden, being desirous
of ascertaining if die Porpoise was at the anchorage on the
west side, directed Lieutenant Underwood to land near the
south end of Malolo, and to ascend a small eminence to get
a view of that anchorage. Lieutenant Alden, it appears,
cautioned Lieutenant Underwood to go well-armed, and to
be on his guard with the natives, as on his former visit, about
six weeks before, he had been led to doubt their friendly dis-
position, and, in consequence, had avoided having any com-
munication with them. He also directed Lieutenant Under-
wood to return before sunset.

Lieutenant Underwood landed, and went up the hill with
one of his men. After a few minutes. Lieutenant Alden
observed some suspicious movements among the natives near
the poi it, and, in consequence, hoisted a signal of recall.
Lieute.iant Underwood was soon seen returning to the boat
with his inan and a native. Before leaving the beach he had
some talk with the natives.

On joining Lieutenant Alden, he reported that there was
no vessel in sight, and mentioned that on his way up the hill
he suddenly came upon a native carrying an armful of clubs,
who, the moment he perceived him, threw down his load ana

li 5

WILKKS ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION.

1 8^

liat there was

attempted flij^ht, but Lieutenant Underwood detained and
made him go before them to the boat. When they reached
the beach a party of natives joined, and appeared to him
much disconcerted at finding the lad a prisoner and witliout
arms.

They passed the night at anchor in this bay, and on the
morning of the 24th discovered the tender at anchor to the
eastward. At nine o'clock Lieutenant PLmmons joined them
in the Peacock's first cutt' r. having passed the night at one
of the small sand-islands in the neighborhood. Lieutenant
Emmons found them waiting breakfast for him. The; antici-
pated that he had some more provisions for them, as he had
recently parted with the tender, and hoped to procure some
yams, pigs, etc., from him, or from the tender herself, which
would in all probability each Malolo during the day.

When Lieutenant Emmons arrived, several of the natives,
some ot whom were armed, were on the beach where the
boats' crews had cooked their br^ akfast.

Many inducements were offered to them for pigs, \ams,
etc., with very little success, each offering some excuse, and
urging the necessity of the boats going to their town for such
thinijs.

It appears that Lieutenant Underwood now volunteered to
go to the town for provisions. He, in consequence, shoved
off, leaving the other boat to follow him as soon as the tide
would allow it to cross the reef between the islands. Lieu-
tenant Emmons then puslied his boat for the shore, and landed
with three armed men on Malolo-lai-lai, in order to obtain
some angles from the top of a hill. On his approaching the
beach the natives waded off to his boat, but he ordered them
off, and directed the officer with him, Midshipman Clark, to
keep his boat afloat, and not suffer them to approach her
during his absence.

On landing they found no more than two pigs, tied to a
tree, for sale, instead of the four they had been promised as
presents. These the natives declined selling until the chief,
who was out upon the reef fishing, should return.

Lieutenant Alden entertained some uneasiness at the num-
ber of natives that had crowded around the Leopard, and
proceeded to join her, but was detained near the reef about
twenty minutes before the tide would allow the boat to pass
over, the first cutter drawing more water than the Leopard.

I i

190

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

liifM!'

^ 1'. i'

On entering the bay he found the Leopard at anchor about
2,000 feet from the shore, in just sufficient water to enable
his boat to get alongside. He was informed by the boat's
crew that Lieutenant Underwood had gone on shore, leaving
a hostage in the Leopard, whom Lieutenant Alden immedi-
ately took into his own boat. Lieutenant Underwood was
accompanied to the shore by J. Clark, armed with a rifle and
sheath-knifc ; J. Dunnock and J. M'Kean, armed with cut-
lasses ; William Leicester, who had the trade-box, unarmed ;
John Sac, interpreter, unarmed ; Jerome Uavis and Robert
Furman, unarmed. The rest of his men remained in the
boat, armed with cutlasses and two rifles.

After this. Midshipman Henry asked, and Lieutenant Alden
gave him permission to land in the canoe and come off with
Lieutenant Underwood. A few moments after a small canoe
came alongside Lieutenant Alden's boat and exchanged some
words with the hostage, who displayed a little anxiety to
return with them to the shore. As the canoe shoved off he
attempted to leave the boat, when Lieutenant Alden took him
by the arm and directed him to sit down, giving him to under-
stand that he must keep quiet. Lieutenant Emmons now
joined, and the Leopard was ordered to drop in as near to
the party on shore as possible. The tide had by this time
risen sufficiently to allow her to go most of the way on the reef.

While Lieutenant Alden was relating the circumstances of
the hostage's desire to escape to Lieutenant Emmons from
the starboard side of the boat, the hostage jumped overboard
from the larboard quarter, and made for the shore in two and
a half feet of water, looking over his shoulder so as to dodge
at the flash if fired at.

Lieutenant Underwood, M'Kean, and Midshipman Clark
were standing near the beach, when they saw the chief escape
from the boat and heard the report of the musket. The old
chief, who was standing near, immediately cried out that his
son was killed, and ordered the natives to make fight. Upon
this two of them seized upon Clark's rifle, and tried to take
it from him. One of these he stabbed in the breast with his
sheath-knife, the other Mr. Underwood struck on the head
with the butt-end of his pistol, upon which both relinquished
their hold. Lieutenant Underwood then ordered the men to
keep close together, and they endeavored to make their way
to the boat facing the natives. Lieutenant Underwood also

WILKES ANTAKCTIC KXI'EDITION.

191

chor about
r to enable
' the boat's
are, leaving
en immedi-
:rwood was
1 a rifle and
d with cut-
t, unarmed ;
and Robert
ined in the

enant Alden
3iT»e off with
small canoe
mnged some
e anxiety to
hoved off he
den took him
-iim to under-
Lmmons now
n as near to
by this time
ly on the reef,
um stances of
Lmmons from
ed overboard
re in two and
as to dodge

lipman Clark
2 chief escape
et. The old
out that his
fight. Upon
tried to take
|reast with his
on the head
. relinquished
;d the men to
ake their way
fderwood also

called upon Midshipman Henry to assist in covering the
retreat of the men to the boats, to which Mr. Henry replied
that he had just received a blow from the club of a native, and
woukl first have a crack at him. He then pursued the native
a few steps, and cut him down with his bowie-knife pistol, and
had again reached the water's edge, when he was struck with
a short club on the back of the head, just as he fired his pistol
and shot a native. The blow stunned him, and he fell with
his face in the water, when he was instantly surrounded by
the natives, who stripped him. The natives now rushed out
from the mangrove bushes in great numbers, some of them
endeavoring to get between Lieutenant Underwood and the
water, while others crowded upon his party, throwing their
short-handled clubs and usimj their spears. Lieutenant Un-
derwood, having received a spear-wound, fired, and ordered
the men to do the same ; and after he had fired his second
pistol, was knocked down by the blow of a club. Clark at
the same time was struck, and had no further recollection.

On seeing the attack Lieutenants Emmons and Alden
pushed for the shore with both boats. The former had
already started to endeavor to retake the hostage. The
boats commenced firing as they sailed in on some natives who
appeared to be wading out to meet them. As soon as the
boats took the bottom, all jumped out except two boat-
keepers, and waded in, occasionally firing at the natives, who
now retreated, carrying off their dead and wounded, and soon
disappeared among the mangrove bushes.

Before reaching the beach J. G. Clark was met, badly
wounded, and was taken at once to the boats. On the beach
lay Lieutenant Underwood partly stripped, and Midshipman
Henry quite naked, with a native close by the latter badly
wounded, who was at once despatched.

The party, picking up the bodies, bore them to the boats.
On the first inspection some faint hopes were entertained that
Midshipman Henry was not dead ; but a second examination
dissipated this idea.

The boats now hauled off, and made sail to join the tender,
where they had seen her in the morning at anchor.

Every attention was paid to the wounded and dead by the
officers that affection and regard could dictate.

The natives afterward received an exemplary punishment
at the hands of Lieutenant Wilkes and his men.

192

ANTARCTIC EXPLORAITONS.

V II

•■ (

i' 5 t

The reunion of the several vessels of the squadron did not
give rise to the feeling- of pleasure which had attended such
nieetings on oth(*r occasions. A deep gloom on the contrary
was spread over the minds of all by the melancholy late of
their comrades, who had been the victims of the butchery at
Malolo. In honor of their memories a funeral sermon \Yas
preached on the loth of August by the chaplain, before the
assembled officers and crews. It was likewise voted at a
meeting of the officers, that a monument be erected at Mount
Auburn to the memory of Lieutenant J. A. Underwood and
Midshipman Wilkes Henry.

After their departure from the Feejec Group, signal was
made to the Porpoise to part company, and the tendcT was
despatched to run along the sea-reef as far as Round Island,
before shaping her course for Oahu in the Sandwich Islands.

All the necessary arrangements with Captain Hudson being
complete by this time Lieutenant Wilkes determined that the
vessels should part company. By pursuing separate tracks
there would be a better o[)portunity of searching for some
doubtful islands, and of obtaining information in relation to
the currents and winds. The vessels therefore parted com-
pany on the evening of the 14th of August.

On the 19th the Vincennes made an island in the neighbor-
hood of the position assigned to Kemins' or Gardner's Island.
This is a low coral island, havincj a shallow lapoon in the
centre, into which there is no navigable passage, but the reef
on ihe western side is so low that the tide can llow into the
lagoon.

At ten on the morning of the 19th breakers were discov-
ered from the mast-head, and by noon a small island was
seen, to which was given the name of M'Kean's Island. In
the afternoon boats were despatched to survey it.

M'Kean's Island is composed of coral sand and blocks, and
is three-fourths of a mile long- by half a mile wide. It rises
twenty-five feet above the level of the sea, and has upon it no
vegetation except a scanty growth of coarse grass. It lies
about north-northeast sixty miles from that of Kemins.

On the 23d of September the Vincennes made the island
of Oahu, and by four o'clock we saw the town of Honolulu,
which is veiy conspicuous from the sea, and has more the
appearance of a civilized land, with its churches and spires,
than any other island in Polynesia.

WILKKS ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION.

193

Iron did not
tended such
die contrary
:holy late of
butchery at
sermon was
1, before the
J voted at a
ed at Mount
lerwood and

1, sicinal was
e tender was
.ound Island,
.vich Islands,
-ludson being
lined that the
parate tracks
ing for some
n relation to
' parted com-

the neighbor-
dner's Island,
agoon in the
, but the reef
(low into the

were discov-
ill island was
's Island. In

id blocks, and
[ide. It rises
lias upon it no
trass. It lies
Zemins,
le the island
of Honolulu,
lias more the
]s and spires,

On the morning of the 24th she came to anchor in the
roads, and found the tender had arrived a few days before us,
all well.

The appearance of Oahu is by no means inviting; it has a
greater resemblance to the desert coast of Peru than any
other of the Polynesian islands we had visited, and has as
little appearance of culdvation. The country would be termed
at first sight barren and rocky. The land in places is very
much broken, and rises into high ridges, here and there di- '
vided by deep and narrow ravines, with little vegetation, ex-
cept en the mountran ranges.

On landing a great uproar prevailed, and groups presented
themselves to view, so motley that it would be difficult to de-
scribe their dress or appearance. There are, indeed, few
places where so great a diversity in dress and language ex-
ists as at Honolulu. The majority were in well-worn Euro-
pean clothing, put on in the most fanciful manner ; but upon
the whole he should say that the crowd were scantily covered,
some being half dressed, many shirtless, none fully clothed,
and numbers of them with nothinij on but the maro. He had
been led to expect a greater appearance of civilization. The
women were all clad in long loose garments, like bathing-
dresses, and many of them were sporting in the water as if
it had been their native element. Some of these natives
wore the simple tapa, thrown over their shoulders, which gave
them a much more respectable appearance than those who
were clothed in cast-off garments.

Everything is earth-color, with the exception of a few green
blinds. The streets, if so they may be called, have no regu-
larity as to width, and are ankle-deep in light dust and sand.
Little pains are taken to keep them clean from offal ; and, in
some places, offensive sink-holes strike the senses, in which
are seen wallowing some old and corpulent hogs.

On the 30th of September the Peacock reached Oahu, all
well. On parting company with the Vincennes Captain
Hudson passed over the position assigned to a reef, by Cap-
tain Swain, in longitude 176° 56' W., latitude 9° 55' S., without
seeing anything of it, and continuing to the northward, crossed
the line on the 27th of August.

The Porpoise arrived at Oahu on the 8th of October, all
well. She had visited the Samoan Group and Vatoa, or
Turtle Island, which was found to be three miles long by one

194

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

and a quarter mile vvldo. The reef extends all around the
island, and is from one and a half to two miles wide. The
island contains about fifty inhabitants, who have native mis-
sionaries, and are Christians.

They met with a warm reception at the Hawaiian Islands.
The governor, Kekuanaoa. kindly placed at his disposal the
large stone house belonging- to Kekauluohi, in the square
where tlie tomb in which the royal family are interred is situ-
ated. The tomb was at that time undergoing some repairs.
The state coffins, which are riciily ornamented with scark-t and
jjold cloth, and in two of which the bodies of the late kinij,
I.iho-liho, and his wife were brought from Iingland, in the
frigate Blonde, were deposited in the house Lieutenant Wilkes
was to occupy. The governor had them at once removed to
the tomb, and in two days he was comfortably established^
and engaged in putting up his instruments, and getting ready
to carry on tlieir siiore duties.

From October to tlie 5th of March, 1841, Lieutenant Wilkes
and his .squadron were anchored at the Hawaiian Island, and
this time was spent in making observations. The volcano
Mauna Loa and eruption of one of the craters were observed.
From there the VinccMines set sail for the island of Mani.

On the 5th of April, 1841, Lieutenant Wilkes had com-
pleted his repairs, and nvdilv. arrangements for tlu* transporta-
tion of his stores to the Columbia River. Towards sunset he
took leave of his friends, and the same night they made sail,
and steered to the westward, in order to pass between the
islands of Oahu and Kauai.

On the 28th of April hv. made Cape Disappointment, which
he soon came up with. A lieavy sea, caused by the strong
winds that had prexailed for several days, was running. He,
notwitlistanding, stood for tiie bar of the Columbia River,
after making every preparation to cross it; but on approach-
ing nearer he found breakers extending from Cape Disap-
pointment to Point Adams, i.i one unbroken line.

All wiio have scH-n th(^ bar of the Columbia have spoken of
the wildnes'^ of the scene, and the incessant roar of the
waters, representing it as one of the most fearful sights that
can possibly meet the eye of the sailor. The difficulty of its
channrl. the distance of the leading sailing marks, their un-
certainty to one unacquaint(>d with them, the want of knowl-
edge of the strength and direction of the currents, with the

ii 1 . <i5 ft ■-

US' 7*'

around the
wide. The
native mis-

iian Islands.

disposal the

tiie square

?rrcd is situ-

ome repairs.

h scarlet and

le late kini:^»

land, in the

inant Wilkes

removed to

established^

>eltino- ready

^nant Wilkes
I Island, and
The volcano
re observed.
3f Mani.
:>s had com-
trans porta-
ls sunset he
y made sail»
jetween the .

tment, which
y the stnMif^
nnint^. He,
mbia River,
in ai;)proach-
.^ape Disap-

e spoken of
roar of the
sights tliat
(■ficulty of its
ks, their un-
lit of knowl-
lus. with the

WII.KKS ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION.

195

necessity of approachinor close to unseen dancj^ers, the
transition from clear to turbid water, all cause doubt and
mistrust.

During the night Lieutenant Wilkes took into consideration
the loss of time that must arise from avvaitir.o an opportunity
to cross the bar, and after due reflection came to the conclu-
sion that it would be better to proceed at once to the Straits
of Juan de Fuca, and there begin work on this coast.

The weather was very thick, and the wind soudi-soudnvest.
At ten o'clock the Porpoise was close und(;r his lee-quarter.

On the morning of the 1st of May he found himself well
into th(; straits; and as he proposed to defer the survey of
this part of them until his return, he hastened to reach Port
Discovery, where he anchored on die 2d of May ; just forty-
nine years after Vancouv(;r had visited the same harbor.

The Straits of Juan de P\ica are bold, and anchorage is to be
found in but few places. He could not obtain bottom in some
places with sixty fathoms of line, even within a boat's length
of the shore.

The south side is composed of perpendicular sandy cliffs,
that run back into high and rugg(.'d peaks, and is covered
with a forest of various species of pines, that rises almost to
the highest points of the range of mountains. The highest
points themselves are covered with snow ; and among them
Mount Olympus was conspicuous, rising to an altitude of eight
thousand one hundred and thirty-eight feet.

The north shore is rocky, and composed, as far as we could
examine it, of conglomerate, and in some few placets of a
reddish granite.

In the mornine the Vincennes was boarded bv a large
canoe, with Indians who spoke a few words of Englisii, The
principal man of the party was dressed in a coarse coat of red
clotii, widi the Hudson Bay Company's buttons, and corduroy
trowsers. He had neither shirt, shoes, nor hat, although tlie
rain was falling fast. 'Hie others were habited in blankets or
skins, and wore conical grass hats, resembling in shape those
of the Chinese.

On the 6th of May, finding that the messenger whom lie
had despatched to Fort Nisqually did not return, he deter-
mined to proceed towards that place without further delay.
He therefore got under way, entered Admiralty Inlet, and
soon anchored in Port Tov.'nsend, on its northern side.

riP

illi:!

196

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

On the 1 1 th of May they again weighed their anchors, and
sailed through the narrows.

Twelve miles more brought them to the anchorage off Nis-
qually, where both vessels dropped their anchors about eight
o'clock.

Nothing can exceed the beauty of these waters, and their
safety ; and not a shoal exists within the Straits of Juan de
Fuca, Admiralty Inlet, Puget Sound, or Hood's Canal, that
can in any way interrupt their navigation by a seventy-four
gun ship.

The shore rises abruptly to a height of about two hundred
feet, and on the top of the ascent is an extended plain, cov-
ered with pine, oak, and ash. Fort Nisqually, with its out-
buildings and enclosure, stands back about half a mile from
the edge of the table-land.

The Porpoise, with two of the Vincennes' boats, took dp
the survey of Admiralty Inlet; the launch, first cutter, and
two boats of the Vincennes, the survey of Hood's Canal,
The land parties intended to explore the interior were allowed
eighty days for the explorations.

Drayton and Waldron of the Vincennes, Lieutenant Wilkes,
and two servants, proceeded to the Columbia to visit Astoria,
then Fort Vancouver and the Willamette settlement, and to
proceed up the river as far as Wallawalla. From Astoria
they proposed to send parties from the Peacock into the
interior, and to set on foot the survey of the Columbia River
by means of her boats.

Fort Nisqually is constructed of pickets, enclosing a space
about two hundred feet square, with four corner bastions.
Within this enclosure are the agent's j tores and about half a
dozen houses, built of logs and roofed with bark. This fort
was considered quite large when it was first established, but
since it has become an agricultural post as well as a trading
one, it is found to be too small. Its locality is also ill chosen,
on account of the difficulty of obtaining water, which has to
be brought from a distance of nearly a mile.

Having seen the parties all off, or ready to start, the party
set out. It was a strange cavalcade, for rrc ■•z ' f rhem were
but sorry horsemen, and they had every Vr-.'-iety of <ij':outre-
ments, from the saddle and bridle to the ba*" back and i /alter.
Ihey were eight in number: Messrs. Drayn.-- "^V^ldroii, and
Lieutenant Wilkes, two servants, two Indians, ^,.k[ a Cana-

WILKES ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION.

197

anchors, and

rage off Nis-
; about eight

irs, and their

ts of Juan de

s Canal, that

seventy-four

two hundred
ed plain, cov-

with its out-
f a mile from

oats, took dp
St cutter, and
-lood's Canal.
■ were allowed

tenant Wilkes,
) visit Astoria,
ement, and to

rom Astoria
ock into the

umbia River

osing a space
rner bastions.

about half a
rk. This fort
stablished, but

as a trading
dso ill chosen,

which has to

tart, the party
f fhem were
y ;)\ cijcoutre-
ck nnd i I alter.
>'V. idroii, and
qnd a Cana-

dian guide, with four pack-liorbcs. All the horses and the
guide were kindly furnished by the gentlemen at the fort to
carry us as far as Cowlitz Farms, about sixty miles distant,
where we intended taking ccnoes.

On the second day they arrived at the Cowlitz Farms, on
the river of that name, which takes its rise in the Cascade
Range, near Mount Rainier, and has many short turns in it.
Its banks, until it approaches the Columbia, are tolerably high.
It is not navigable for barges more than three months in the
year.

The Columbia, opposite to Astoria, is four miles wide, but
in the middle of die river is an extensive sand-bar with only
a few feet of water on it, and at extreme low tides it is bare ;
the channel is very narrow on each side and difficult to navi-
gate.

The country lying north of the Columbia, between the
Cowlitz and Cape Disappointment, is generally rough and
rugged, wiui numerous streams of water, and in many places
a rich soil ; it is extremely well timbered, and is capable,
when cleared, of growing grain and other agricultural pro-
duce.

The flood is a very grand sight from the banks of the river
at Vancouver^ as it passes swiftly by, bearing along the
gigantic forest trees, whose immense trunks appear as mere
chips. They frequently lodge for a time, in which case others
are speedily caught by them, which, obstructing the flow of
the water, form rapids, until by a sudden rush the whole is
borne off to the ocean, and In time lodged by the current? on
some remote and savage island, to supply the natives Mitti
canoes.

It would be difficult to give the reader an idea of the
anxieties that beset Lieutenant Wilkes when he joined the
VIncennes once more on the i6th June, 1841. Day after clay
had passed in the anxious expectation of receiving news of
the Peacock and Flying-Fish, until a conviction became gen-
eral, with both officers and crew, that some serious accident
had occurred to one or both of them among the dangerous
coral reefs and islands they had been sent to explore. They
were now three months lat^; than the time appointed for their
arrival at the Columbia Ri>'^r,

On the 26th a messeng •- arrived with letters from Nis-
qually, informing liim of the loss of the Peacock on the bar

198

ANTARCTIC EXPLORAl jNS.

r "-I

I I

of the Columbia, but that all hands were saved. This news,
althoujLjh bad, was a great relief to iiim ; for he had feared
not only the loss of the vessels, but had serious apprehensions
for the lives of the persons on board.

Captain Hudson had attempted to enter the Columbia with
the Peacock at a time wliich in his judgment was propitious
to incur the dangers of the bar. Soon the ship struck a shoal
anil with every sea lifted and struck heavily.

The lis^hter spars were now sent down, and the pumps were
rigged ; every exertion was made to save the masts and lower
yards, by which the launch might be hoisted out as soon as
the sea would permit it.

Captain Hudson, finding that the ship was leaking badly,
ordered tlie watches in gangs to the pumps, wliich were
thenceforward kept in action until the vessel was abandoned.
Every possible exertion was made to bring the ship's head to
the sea, but without much effect.

At last, by heaving the shot overb»^ard, and starting the
water, the ship was so much lightened that, by means of the
larboard anchor, which had been cast free of the ship, she was
hove round with her head to the sea. At low water, which
occurred about dark, there was only nine feet depth of water
alongside. At 8h. 45m. the chain-cable parted, the ship was
again thrown broadside to the sea, and began again to strike
heavilv.

At iih. 30m. it was high water; at i p. m. the sea was
rapidly increasing; and at 2 a. m. the breakers were making
a continued breach over the vessel, by which the bulwarks
were stove in and the spar-deck flooded. The water was
knee-deep on the gun-deck, and the shot-lockers were buried
in it. The night passed heavily with litde hope of the ship's
holding together till morning. At last the day dawned, and
with the coming light, and at the extreme fall of the tide, the
sea providentially abated.

At six o'clock in the morning a large canoe boarded the
vessel manned by a crew of Chinook Indians, and having on
board old Ramsey, the pilot, with a colored boy belonging tc
the Vincennes of the name of John Dean. The latter, who
had been left with Mr. Waldron at Astoria, had persuadec
Ramsey and the Indians to come off for the purpose of render-
ing assistance. The launch and the boats were also hoister
out, a few provisions put in them, and a part of the men ant

WILKES ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION.

199

ed. This news,
r he had feared
,s apprehensions

le Columbia with
t was propitious
ip struck a shoal

the pumps were

masts and lower

d out as soon as

LS leaking badly,

nps, which were

was abandoned.

he ship's head to

and starting the
by means of the
■ the ship, she was
low water, which
-t depth of water
ted, the ship Avas
an again to strike

p. M. the sea was
ers were making
ich the bulwarks
The water \yas
ckers were buried
lope of die ship's
day dawned, and
,11 of the tide, the

anoe boarded the
PS, and having on
boy belonging to
The latter, who
la, had persuaded
purpose of render-
were also hoisted
rt of the men and

officers embarked, with as little delay as possible and just as
they stood, for fear of overloading tlie lioats and thus causing
the loss of all. In tliese Lieutenant Perry with Purser
Spieden, the sick, the naturalists, and the charts, books and
ship's papers were sent off to be landed in Haker's Bay.
The boats landed all in safety; and succeeded in making a
second trip, in which all who had remained on board were
taken to the shore except Captain Hudson, Lier.tenant
Walker, the boatswain, the carpenter and about thirty men.

Towards noon the breakers again increased ; and the sea
was making a breach in all directions over the ship, wliich
was fillino- fast, the water havinir risen above the lev(.l of the
berth-deck. The masts were cut away, and the vessel lay a
complete wreck with nothing standing but the stump of the
mizzen-mast.

Lieutenant Emmons, who had charge of the boats, was,
during this time, using every possible exerdon to make a
third trip, but without success ; and the crews of the boats
were the anxious witnesses of the condition of the ship, v, idi-
out being able to relieve those on board from their perilous
situation. They persevered, however, in their fruitless and
laborious endeavors, until one of the boats, in charge of Mr.
Lewis, tiie gunner, was thrown end over end, and witli Iier
crew engulfed. Lieutenant De Haven was fortunately close
at hand, and succeeded in saving those on board ; all of whom
were injured, and one of them severely by the breaking of
his hip-bone.

By three o'clock Lieutenant Emmons, with the boats, was
again approaching the ship ; but the sea was still too rough
to venture near her, and it was not till five o'clock that he
succeeded in getting alongside, when the remaining men
were distributed amon<>- the boats and embarked in crood
order, Captairt Hudson being the last to leave the ship.

The Peacock and Flying-Fish had started on the 2d of
December, 1840, from Oahu and had visited Jarvis, Duke of
York, Duke of Clarence, Bowditch, Swain's Island, Opolu,
Ellices Island, Kingsmill Island, and arrived at the bar of the
Columbia River on the I7lh of July, after having touched at
the Sandwich Islands.

On the 28th of October, 1S41, all exploring parties had re-
turned to San Francisco, and preparations were made to sai)
for Manilla, which was reached on the 13th of January, 1842

I ! '

*i: i

200

ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS.

After visiting Santa Anna on the Pasig, the mountains of
Maijaijai and the volcano Ae Taal, as well as the hot springs
at Bannos, the expedition sailed south for the Straits of
Mindoro.

On the evening of the 21st of January the Vincennes, with
the tender in company, left the bay of Manilla.

On the 2 2d they passed the entrance of the Straits of San
Bernadino. It would have been the most direct route to
follow these straits until they had passed Mindoro. Lieuten-
ant Wilkes' object, however, was to examine the ground for
the benefit of others, and the Apo Shoal, which lies about
mid-channel between Palawan and Mindoro, claimed his first
attention.

Calavite Peak is the north point of Mindoro. He made it
two thousand feet high. This peak is of the shape of a dome,
and appears remarkably regular when seen from its western
side. Mindoro is a beautiful island, and is evidently volcanic ;
it appears as if thrown up in confused masses.

The highest peak of the island by triangulation was found
to be three thousand one hundred and twenty-six feet.

From there Lieutenant Ringgold visited the Sooloo Islands,
Necker Island, and, after calling at the Sandwich Islands,
arrived at Singapore on the 19th of January, 1842, which
they left on the 26th of February, and anchored at Table
Bay, Cape of Good Hope, on the 1 3th of April. After call-
ing at St. Helena, and passing the magnetic equator on May
9th, the Vincennes with Lieutenant Wilkes on board arrived
off Sandy Hook on the loth of June, 1842

The Porpoise and Oregon had, in the meantime, proceeded
to Rio Janeiro, where they executed their instructions, and
having obtained the necessary supplies sailed for the United
States. After leaving the equator their route differed but
little from that pursued by the Vincennes, They arrived at
New York on the 30th of June, 1842.

:< f

! 1, I

le mountains of

i the hot springs

the Straits of

Vincennes, with

e Straits of San

direct route to
idoro. Lieuten-
; the ground for
vhich hes about
claimed his first

ro. He made it
hape of a dome,
from its western
dently volcanic ;
I.

lation was found
^-six feet.
; Sooloo Islands,
ndwich Islands,
-y, 1842, which
hored at Table
)ril. After call-
squator on May
n board arrived

time, proceeded
nstructions, and
J for the United
.ite differed but
They arrived at