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Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mdthode. 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 THE DOROTHEA "" AND TRENT AMONG THE ICEBERGS. m t .-•i* K '^ II IK MAR\i;i,()LS Wonders of the Polar World. BKINC A m I ) COMPLETE AND AUTHENTIC HISTORY OK ?0!AGES m DISCOVERIES IN THE POLAR REGION, iNc;.rniN(t tiik i.-wkdithins of sir joiin tkanklin, ijkit. hkii.wkn. iiu. KANK, DR. IIAYKS, ADMIRAL Rn(JER;', CAl'T. HAM,; I.I KIT. St'llWATK AS tiiiii;k-timhsa.ni)-.mii.k slkixik joirnkv; tiik. criisk and i,<»ss (»f TIIK .iKANNirrrK, TIIK K.VTK OF DKI.ONd, A.ND HKSCIK OK DANKN- ll;)\VKR AND MKIA'II.I.K; CLOSING WTTII A FILL IllSTORV OF THE (illKKLV KXPEDITION, UEINO A RKCORD OF INI'AR- ALLKLKD ADVKNTIRK, SLKFKRINd AND 1>KATII. FROM TIIK NARRATIVES OF IIEDT. GREELY, COMfflANDER SCHLEY, LIEDT. MEHHOWER, ani)TH1':<)TIIi:r(;.\!.[..\xt iikuoks wjiofacki) UKATirniATTiir, woui.d MlUJiT KNOW THE .MYSTERIES <»F THE I'OLAR REciloNS. TO WIIICII IS ADDKI) A FULL ACCOUNT OF TITAT A I'i'A LLL\'G IIORnoli, CANXlliALlSi^r, AS TA FFN FROM THE DlAlilES OF THE MEMBERS OF TJIE GRKEL Y EXJ'KDlTloy, " Men under such awful circunnstances lose all control over their better natures, and become even cannibals." TIIK MIIOI.E CAREFIU.Y EinTKH HY H E II INI A N D 1 E C K , A.M., THE WELL-KNOWN AUTHOR. PROFUSELY TLT.rSTRATED WITH SCENES AND TNCmENTS IN THE ROIwVR REGIONS AND PORTRAITS OF ARCTIC ITKROES FltOM OIMG- INAL SKICTCIIES ANP PHOTOGRAPHS. Thompson & Company, ^- GENKIIAL AGENTS, FRliDliRlCTOX. NHW BRUNSWICK. -" •**(,'^ 1^ 254540 'M.,, Entered according to Act of Conj^Tcss, in the year 1885, by J. R.. JONES. In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. # i^if M %f -If'' * ^-'i^^ f A -§*:¥,. Preface. Nearly three thousand years before the birth of Christ the Tyrians and Phoenicians left their homes and firesides to explore new realms, and to obtain from the then unknown land of Spain the means of augmented wealth and luxury. From that period down through succeeding ages until the present time, enterprising men have found a congenial field of labor and adventure in unknown regions in search of riches, celebrity and conquest. This spirit has given birth to many great states and empires. It was this spirit which made England pass successively under the sway of Gallic, Roman, Saxon, Danish and Norman conquerors, ""^ore es- pecially still was it this restless spirit of adventure which -created the greatness of the maritime cities of Genoa and Venice, as well as that of the kingdoms of Portugal and Spain. After the discovery of the American continent and after the thorough exploration of the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, there was a field left which demanded greater heroism, greater endurance and was fraught with greater perils than any other part of the globe. This region lay far up toward the North Pole. It was the land of everlasting: snow-fields, of stupendous icebergs, of terrible storms, the land of the mid- night sun. To navigate and explore these realms, men of extreme daring, of sublime heroism, and of great persever- ance were indispensable. These men possessed one great element of distinguishing greatness, of which the explorers .^f more congenial and inviting climates were destitute. Their investigations were made without the prospect of rich reward and chiefly for the advancement of Sijcience. The discovery of a northwestern passage was kept in view, but other less PREFACE. mercenary and more philanthropic motives brought about the larger portion of the expeditions, which, especially during the nineteenth century, invaded the cheerless solitudes of that dangerous and repulsive portion of the globe. The recent terrible experiences of the DeLong and Greely expeditions have awakened intense interest in the region towards which the world still looks, with unsatisfied inquiry. The object of this book is to present, in one volume, an authentic record of all that can interest the general reader in connection with the efforts put forth by Arctic explorers to solve the problems presented in the Polar regions. Nothing in the whole range of literature can be more enter- taining than the accounts of the various expeditions to the irozen North — that in search of a northwest passage under Sir John Franklin, the voyages of Lieut. DeHaven, Dr. Kane and Dr. Hayes, the three expeditions of Charles Francis Hall» the remarkable sledge journey of three thousand miles, by Lieut. Schwatka, U. S. A., the cruise and loss of the Jeannette» and the relief expeditions sent out for DeLong, closing with the account of the Greely expedition and the rescue of Lieut. Greely and the survivors of his party — thus covering the whole field of Arctic explorations. No better example of the influence of lofty motives in the conduct of life can be found than is seen in the case of these brave adventurers and martyrs in the cause of science. The youth of our country will draw many ennobling lessons from the patriotic self-sacrifice of Franklin, Kane, Hayes, Hall, De- Long and Greely, in the perusal of this work. There always will be a great interest among the people in books relating to voyages of discovery, adventure, suffering and death. The taste of the artist and the skill of the engraver have been brought into requisition to illustrate the information conveyed, thus adding a charm and value to the work that will be readily appreciated by every reader. "^ The Author. ijs =-v'^ CONTENTS. ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. CHAPTER I. Introductory Remarks — The Progresx of Arctic Discovery — Comparatively little known of the Arctic • Rrgions— 'i'hi; Norlliinen— John and Sebasttun Cabot— Martin Frobishcr- Davis— Henry Hudson— bamn — Capuiii Phipps — Captain Coolc — Maclcenzie — De^hnew — liehring — Sir John Ross j CHAPTER II. Arctic F.xpbditions op thb Ninrtbbnth Cknturv— Sir John Ross— Captain Parry— Sir John Frank- lin— Russian Expeditions under Von Wrangell and Anjou— Captain Beechey— Captain Ross fixes the Position of the true Magnetic Pole— Back and Dr. Knig— Dease and Simpson— Dr. Rae finislies the Geographical Exploration of the North Coast of the American Continent— Sir John Franklin's last Ex- fieiliiion— Numerous Expeditions sent out in Search uf him— Captain McClintock finds Proof of Frank- in's Deaih— Commander Inglewood's Expedition— Sir John Franklin the Discoverer ol the Nortli- western Passage >o CHAPTER 711. Thb First American Arctic Expeditions— The first Ornnell Expedition under Command of Lieu- tenant De Haven— After wintering near rfeechcy Island it returns safely to New York— Traces of Sir John Franklin's Expedition foinul— An Arctic Winter ani its Horrors— Scurvy— The Expedition of Commander Ingloficld, of the British Navy— He reaches Latitude 78° 28' 21", about 140 miles farther north than had been previously attained — Lieutenant Osbjrn's Expedition 33 CHAPTER IV. 'I'hb SKCo'rJD Gkinnbll EXPEDITION, COMMANDED BY Dr. E. K. Kame— Two Winters in the Arctic Region, the first in Latitmle 78° 37', Longitude 70" 40' — A Sledge Expedition from here pushes as far as Cape Constitution in Washington Land, Latitude Si" 27', and finds Kenntdy Channel free from Ice, aboi.nding with Animal Life, and opening in a great Polar Se.i — Safe Return to the United States •n 1855 • 44 CHAPTER V. American Arctic I.xpedition— Expedition of the United States Ship Vincennes under Commander John Rodgers — Petropaulovski — Benring Strait — Wrangell Land 6<. CHAPTER VI. Explorations op Dr. Isaac I. Hayes- He visits Melville Bay— Winters at Port Foulke— Arctic Night described — Highest Point reached 74 CHAPTER VH. The Explorations op C. F. Hall— Limited Resources— Generous aid by Messrs. Grinnell, Williams and Haven— Buries his Native Companion Kud-la-go — Holsteinborp — Destruction of the Rescue and the Expedition Boat — Inland Excursions — Frobisher Strait or B.iy — Hall's Second Arctic Expedition — Sailing of the Monticello— Winter-Quarters at Fort Hope — King William's Land 80 CHAPTER VIII. The Polaris F^xpbdition op 1871— Death and Burial of Captain Hall— The Polaris Leaves the Harbot ^ and Drifts South — The Separation— Drift on the Floe — Rescue by the Tigress — Rescue of the Polaris Party by the Ravenscraig 9S CHAPTER IX. Tm Gbkman Expedition under Koi-dbwey— Departure from Bremerhaven — Separation from the lunsa— Wreck of the Hansa — Adrift on the Ice — Danger of Starvation — Return to Fredericksthal 114 CHAPTER X. Thb Aihtrian Expedition — Weyprecht and Payer set out in the Tegetthoff— Great Discoveries — Fall of a Sledge — Franz Joseph's Land — March to the Sea — Rescued by a Russian Whaler — The Results of the Expeditions 134 (3) 4 CONTENTS. CHAPTER XI. ExraoiTiON OF Captain Giohob Narks -The ships Men mil Di«covery— Death from Kxprnure— Mnrkham's Sleilge journey— He reucht's the Highest I'oiiit ait;iinf(l thus far— Lieuleiiaiit Schwatka'i xpf Sir John Kranklin Discovered— The Kucordu of McCliiituck Found — Safe Return IJS CIIArTKR XII. Nordknskjold's Numbri '» Polar Voyages— The VcRn- An Old Pri)lilrm Solve 49 CIIAPTKR XXIII. Nkar tub North Polb— Animnl Life and Vegetation of (irinnell Land— Major Greely's Jonrneyn into the Interior (>(^(irinnell Land — Wonderful Natural Phcnomrna— A Glacier Hursl.s — Journalism Near the North Pole— The Arctic Moon— Amusements and I'astimcs of the Explorers 36I CHAPTER XXIV. PKnPARiNn FOR Rbtrrat — Crossing Grinnell Land — The l.asi Kxploring Trlp< — The Retreat— Leaving many Pnivi-.ions and the Dogs behind— Alianduning tin: Sir im-Lanm li — A terrific Gale— On the Ice- Floc— (Jaining Land at F.s-juimau Point — Rations found at Cape Isabella :iii— Ten Graves — Homeward Hound — Meeting the Alert— Death irf Elison — Inlcrmeni of Frederick Christiansen 391 187 .'iS CIIAPTKR XXVI. TllR Rbscl'K (Conlinued^ — Ofiicial Reports of the Rescue of ibc Survivors of ilie (Ireely I arty — Terrible Sufferings — The Rescued Men frantic with joy — Narratives uf Lieutenant Cjreely and I'rivalc Coiinell— Devotion and Heroism of the Men — How Greely was Rescued, as narrated by a Naval Officer 404 ^ CHAPTER XXVII. Cannibalism in its Worst Form — Private llinry Shot from Behind and his Flesh Eaten — Lieutenant Greely on the Cause of the Kxetiition— Hei ry Accused nf I avinu Stolen Rations— Si rgeant F.Iison on his Deatli-bcd declares the Shoiiling of He'iry Unjiisiifiablo — Who is to Blame for the Sufferings of Greely's Men? — The Relief Squadron Arrives at Poiistnouth Harbor — Naval Welcomes fiT the 'I'lielis, Bear, and Ali-rt -Reception in the Town — Reunion of thi- Survivors an 1 their Relatives — .Mrs. CJreely Arrives — A 'I'hrilling Reunion 43s aj4 CHAPTER XXVIII. How THE Hoiiiiis OF thr Victims wnuR iNrnRm^n-Proofs of Cannibalism — The Flesh of Lieutenant Kislingbury's Body cut off with Knives — The Carte-de-visitc of a Surgeon — The (jreely Survivors — Their Physical Condition whi n Rescued — Surgeon Green's Report — What Lieiilenaiu Greely s.iys con- cerning Cannibalism — Lieutenant Greely on Dissensions in the Cam|) — Dr. Pavy takes his own Life— The Body washed away — A Story full of Horror — The first Taste uf Human Flesh — Private Henry Welcome Food 446 »55 I303 CHAPTER XXIX. Thb Grrri.Y Rrcords— His Official Report Sent In— Views of Prominent Officers and Scit.itists Re- fardinn the Greely Kxpedilion — Dr Kmil Besscis, (Jcneral liennel, Mr. George Keeiian, Lieutenant )«nenhower and Nindemann Denying Sensational Reports — The Comiitiim of Greely's Men when Found — An Unofficial Report of Lieutenant Greely — Some Blame for Greely — Sergeant Brainard — In Defeiu eof Lieutenant Greely — The Relief of Greely — Riport of Comniandcr Schley of the Expedition — Just in Time — Desperate Situation of the Party on .Arrival of the Relief Ships— 'ierrible Sunehne and Death — The Condition of the Camp — Six Bodies had been Cut and the Fleshy Parts Removed to a greater ur less Extent — General Huzen on Garlington's F'ailure — ( 'ongrcssionul Invcsligutiun Suggested. 470 ^ * CHAPTER XXX FtiTURB Expeditions — How Lieutenant Lockwood and Lieutenant Greely Spent Christmas in the Arc- tic Region — Extracts from the Diary of the Former Officer, who Lost his Life Among the Icebergs of Cape Sabine— The Sufferings of Holiday Week — The Fiend of Hunger — New Year, 1884 — A Christmas in Grinnell Land, as Described by Lieutenant Greely — 1 he Work Done by Greely — Lockwood Sees Cape Robert Lincoln, the Highest Northern Latitude Ever Seen by Man — The Secretary of War on the Result of the Expedition Future Expeditions to the Pole— Lieutenant Greely Says that the Best Rou;e is Via Franz Jusef Land— When to Start— How the Crew should be Selected and Equipped.... yta Mt ■% f « CONTKNTS. ANTARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. CHAITKK 1 ExramTIONn to THI AfrrAHCTIC Rroionh— The Smith Pitlar RfRloin even more Inho^pilnhte than the Arctic— An Antarctic Summer— Search fur Tcrrii Austialis— Kirit Vnyage Aroiinil Cape Mom— Cap- lain Cook's Kxpedition t" Discover the Northwest Hassaffe — His Arrival at the Sandwich Islands — Miiidt red — Captain Clerke takes Charge nf the Kxpedition— The New Shetland Inlands— Tl'e Kiissian Sea Captain IklhnKhaiisen Reaches a very Smilhern Point- Expeditions of Captain U'UrvdIe of the French and Lieutenant Wilkes of the United States Navy— Victoria Land i CHAPTER II. Tub Lipi? df C-'aptain Iamhs Cook — The Parents of Captain James Cook— Apprenticed to a Haber- dasher—On Hoard of the Ship Kree-Love — A Common Sailor— Later a Mate— He enters the Royal Urilish Navy— Masti-r of the Garland and the Mercury — Taking Soimdinp of the Channel of the St. Lawrence River and Surveyintt it — Mailerof the Manof-War Northuml)erlaiid— Married — Marine Sur- veyor of Newfoundland and Lahrador — Kxpedition sent out tmder Li'Mitenant Cook to Olservc the Transit of Venus — Madeira — Rio Janeiro — Cape Horn — Otaheite— Taking Observations — Leaving Otaheite ij CHAPTER III. Captain Cook's Vovaoim— Hicks Bay— Hostility of the Inhabitants- The Transit o. Mercury— Nearly Shipwrecked— South Cape— Botany Bay— In groat Dancer— Ship Aleak— Refitting the Ship for Sea- Attempts to put to Sea— The Pumps decayed— New South \Vale»— New Guinea— An Aurora Horealis — A Dutch Set. leinent— Disease on Board— Loss of thirty Men by Death — Home again from .1 Foreign Shore 10 CHAPTER IV. Cook's SuroNn Expedition in the Ships Rbsolution and Adventurf— Reaching Table Bay— Fields of Ice— Aurora Auslralis — Dusky Hay — Queen Charlotte's Sound — Cook Visits Queen Charlotte'* Sound— Scurvy on Hoard- Pitcairn Island— Society Islands — Return to Queen Charlotte's Sound — Marquesas Islands— Shepherd's Isles— The New Hebrides— Third Visit of Queen Charlotte's Sound.... 39 CHAPTER V. Caitain Cook's DePAKTttRE from Nr.w ZPAi.ANt)— Terra drl Kueco — Possession Bay — Isle of Georgia — Rituniing to Kiij;lanels left IJartmouth in command of John Davis, and on the 19th of July were off the west coast of Greenland. As they proceeded northward,, they observed •' a rocky and mountainous land," its summit covered with snow, Davis naming it "The Land of Desola- tion." He could not land there,, owing to the coasl-ice, and after sundry explorations to the southward, and again to the northwestward, discovered an archipelago of islands, to which he gave the title of Gilbert Sound. After other explorations they reached a fine open passage (Cumbeirland Strait) be- tween Frobisher's Archipelago and the island now called Cumberland Island. After a week's further stay they deter- mined to sail for England, where they arrived safely on Sep- tember 30th, The second voyage of Davis had not been particularly prosperous either as regards commerce or discovery, but his persistency and perseverance induced the merchants to de- spatch a third expedition in 1587. On this voyage he pro- ceeded as far north as 'J2>°y ^^id discovered the strait which now bears his name. Davis made no more Arctic voyages. He was afterwards employed in the East Indian service. In the year 1594 the United Provinces determined to send out an expedition in the hopes of finding a northern route to China and India. The city of Amsterdam contributed two^ vessels: Zeelandt and Enkhuysen one each. Willem Barentz, " a notable, skillfull, and wise pilote," represented Amsterdam, while the other vessels were respectively commanded by Cor- nelis Cornelison and Brand Ysbrants. The vessels left the Texel on June 5th, and soon after separated. Following first the fortunes of Cornelison and Ysbrants, we find that they reached Lapland on the 23d, and proceeded eastward at^ reached Waigatz Island, Sailing through Waigatz Strait, they found and were impeded much by large quantities of floating ice ; later they reached an open sea perfectly clear of it. The INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 13 land to the southward was in* sight, and trended apparently to the southeast. Without more ado they concluded that they had discovered an open passage round Northern Asia to China, and turned their vessels' bows homewards. Meanwhile, Barentz crossed the White Sea, and eventually made the west coast of Nova Zembla ; proceeding thence northwards, nam- ing several headlands and islands. About latitude 77° 25' they encountered an immense field of ice, of which they could MOCK SUNS, SEEN ON FOURTH OF JUNE, 1596, BY BARENTZ. see no end from the mast-head, and they had to turn back. After becoming entangled in drift-ice, and experiencing misty, cold, and tempestuous weather, the crew began to murmur, ^d then refused positively to proceed. On the homeward wiyage, after they had arrived at Maltfloe and Delgoy Islands, they met the other ships, the commanders of which were ju- bilant with the idea that they had discovered the Northeast Passage. At all events, on their return, the reports given by H INTRODUCroKY REMARKS. them were so favorably consideriid, that preparations were immediately made for a second expedition. The second expedition consisted of seven vessels : six laden with wares, merchandise, and money, and factors to act as traders ; the seventh, a small pinnace, was to accompany the rest for part of the voyage, and bring back news of the pro- ceedings. These extensive preparations were rendered NOVA ZFMBLA-ROUTE TAKEN BY BARENTZ. nearly useless by the dilatoriness of those who had the matter in hand. The vessels did not leave the Texel till July 2d, 1595, nor reach Nova Zembla before the middle of Au- gust. The coasts of that island were found to be unapproaclH able on account of the ice. In few words, they returned to Holland, having accomplished little or nothing. Again, in May, 1 596, Barentz sailed from Amsterdam, and INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. X5 on July 17th reached Nova Zembla. Arrived home in the following year, after a voyage of many hardships and trials. In 1 607 renewed the search for a northern route to China and Japan. Hitherto neither the northeast nor northwest had held out much hopes of success, and they now determined on a bold and novel attempt at sailing over the Pole itself. For this expedition Henry Hudson — already known as an expe- rienced and intrepid seaman, and well skilled in nautical science — was chosen commander. This adventurous navigator left Gravesend on May ist in a small barque, with only ten men and a boy. The very name tonnaore and of the vessel have been forgotten, but it is known to have been of the tiniest description. In the second week of June Hudson fell in with land — a headland of East Greenland — the weather at the time being foggy, and the sails and shrouds frozen. He examined other parts of this coast, feeling doubtful whether he might not reach round Greenland SIR HENRY HUDSON. open water to the northward, and sail Later he reached Spitzbergen, where the ice to the north utterly baffled all his efforts to force a pas- sage, and being short of supplies he set sail for England. Two years later, 1609, we find Hudson on a third voyage of discovery. His movements were very erratic, 2nd the oHly record left us does not explain them. He first doubled the North Cape, as though again in quest of the Northeast Passage: then turned westward to Newfoundland; thence again south as far as Charleston, South Carolina; then north Cape Cod. soon after whicli he discovered the beau- to i6 INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. H . ; tiful Hudson River, at the mouth of which New York is now situated. Hudson's fourth and last voyage is that most intimately associated with his name on account of the cruel tragedy which terminated his life. Several gentlemen of influence, among them Sir John Wolstenholme and Sir Dudley Digges, were so satisfied of the feasibility of making the Northwest Passage, that they fitted out a vessel at their own expense, and gave the com- mand to Henry Hudson. The accounts of the voyage itself are meagre. We know, however, that he discovered the Strait and •' Mediterranean " Sea. The vessel appropriated for this service was of fifty-five tons burden, victualled only, as DEATH OF BEHRING. it seems, for six months. She left the Thames on April 1 7th, 1 610, and on June 9th she was off the entrance of Fro- bisher Strait, where Hudson was compelled to ply to the westward on account of the ice and contrary winds. During July and the latter part of August several islands and head- lands were sighted and named, and at length they discovered a great strait formed by the northwest point of Labrador, and a cluster of islands, which led them into an extensive sea. Here Hudson's own testimony ends. In 1 61 6 Baffin explored the bay called after him, even entering the mouth of Lancaster Sound. For more than fifty years after his explorations no navigator penetrated bfe- > INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. »7 yond the spot reached by him. In 1 743 the British Parlia- ment offered a reward of ;^20,ooo to the crew who should effect a northwest passage through Hudson Bay, and subse- quently the conditions were extended so as to include any northern passage for ships, and an additional reward of ;^5,ooo was offered to the crew that should penetrate to within one degree of the North Pole. In 1773 Captain Phipps, after- ward Lord Mulgrave, under instructions to reach the North Pole, sailed along the shores of Spitzbergen to latitude 80° 48', and in 1776 Captain Cook, sailing for the polar sea by way of Behring Strait, penetrated to latitude 70° 45'. In 1 789 Mackenzie, in a land expedition, discovered and traced to its mouth the river called after him. In spite of all these discoveries not a single line of the coast from Icy Cape to Baffin Bay was traced and thor- oughly known. The eastern and western shores of Green- land to about 75° latitude were tolerably well defined from the visits of whaling vessels ; Hudson Bay and Strait were partially known ; but Baffin Bay, according to the statement of the discoverer, was bounded by land on the west, running parallel with the 90th meridian, and across what is now known as Barrow's Strait. As early as the year 1527 the idea of a passage to the East Indies by the North Pole was suggested by a Bristol mer- chant to Henry VIII. of England, but no voyage seems to have been undertaken for the purpose of navigating the Arctic Seas till the commencement of the following century, when an expedition was fitted out at the expense of several merchants of London. This attempt was succeeded by others at different periods, and all of them were projected and car- ried out by private individuals. While the adventurers did not reach India by a nearer route than doubling the Cape of Good Hope, they evinced a fortitude, perseverance, and skill which deserve the admiration of the civilized world. At length, after the lapse of above a century and a half, this interesting question became an object of royal patronage, and the expedition which was commanded by Captain Phipps was fitted out at the expense of the governftient. Captain Phipps, however, found it impossible to penetrate the wall of ice which extended for many degrees between the latitude of 80° and 81° to the north of Spitzbergen. His vessels were the Racehorse and Carcass: Captain Lutwidge being his ^ fW tr u u M U) 03 (i8) TNTHODUCTORY RKMARKS. 19 second in command, in tlu; latter vessel, and having with him, then a mere boy, Nelson, th(^ future hero of England. From the year 1 648, when the famous Russian navigator, Deshnew, penetrated from the river Kolyma through the Polar into the Pacific Ocean, the Russians have been as ar- duous in their attempts to discover a northeast passage to the north of Cape Shelatskoi, as the English have been to sail to the northwest of the American continent, through Baffin Bay and Lancaster Sound. On the side of the Pacific many efforts have, within the last century, been made to further this object. In 1741 the celebrated Captain Behring discovered the straits which bea. his name. From the period when Deshnew sailed on his expedition to the year 1 764, when Admiral Tchitschagofif, an indefatigable and active officer, en- deavored to force a passage round Spitzbergen, and thence to the present times, including the arduous eftbrts of Captain Billings and Vancouver, and the more recent one of M. Von Wrangell, the Russians have been untiring in their attempts to discover a passage eastward to the north of Cape Taimur and Cape Shelatskoi. And certainly, if skill, perseverance, and courage could have opened this passage, it would have been accomplished. An expedition was despatched under the command of Sir John Ross in order to explore the scene of the former labors of Frobisher and Baffin. Still haunted with the golden dreams of a northwest passage, which Barrington and Beaufoy had in the last age so enthusiastically advocated, our nautical adventurers by no means relinquished the long-cher- ished chimera. A thorough knowledge of the relative boundaries of land and ocean on our globe has in all ages and by all countries been considered one of the most important features of pop- ular information. But to no country is this knowledge of such practical utility and such importance as to a maritime nation like Great Britain, whose merchant marine visits every port which is dependent upon distant quarters for the greater part of her necessary supplies, whether of food or of luxuries, which her population consume, and which her arts and manu- factures require. 11 i CHAPTER II. ARCTIC EXPEDITIONS OF THE NINETEENTH CENTURY. Sir John Ross — Captain Parry — Sir John Franklin — Russian Expeditions under Von Wrangell and Anjou — Captain Ik-echey — Captain Ross fixes the Position of the true Mag- netic Pole — Back and Dr. King — Dcase and Simpson — Dr. Rae finishes the Geographical Exploration of the North Coast of the American Continent — Sir John Franklin's last Expedition — Numerous Expeditions sent out in Search of him — Captain McClintock finds Proof of Franklin's Death — Commander Inglewood's Expedition — Sir John Franklin the Discoverer of the Northwestern Passage. In the year 1818 two vessels were fitted out by the British government to proceed toward the North Pole. Captain Sir John Ross and Lieutenant Parry were appointed command- ers. No former expedition had been fitted out on so extensive a scale, or so completely equipped in every respect as this one. The circumstance which stimulated the send- ing out of these vessels was the open character of the bays and seas in those regions, very large quantities of the polar ice having floated down into the Atlantic for the previous three years. This expedition had instructions to discover the northwest passage. Another, under Captain Beechey and Lieutenant Franklin, afterward Sir John Franklin, was to penetrate to the North Pole. The objects of the latter expe- dition were entirely scientific. It passed north between Greenland and Spitzbergen, but did not go farther than lati- tude 80° 34'. Captain Ross sailed about sixty miles up Lancaster Sound, and returned with the report that it was a bay, through which there was no outlet to the ocean beyond. A year later another expedition under Lieutenant Parry passed through Lancaster and Melville Sounds beyond the iioth meridian, wintered at Melville Island, and returned to Great Britain the next summer. From York Factory an over- land expedition under Lieutenant Franklin was sent out the same year, witii instructions to explore the north coast of America, from the mouth of the Coppermine River eastward. He proceeded 550 miles east of the Coppermine to Point Turn-again, and then, having suffered great hardships, re- (20) AKCTIC LXl'KDITIONS (F MNKIKKNTIi CKNTURY. 21 turned to York I'actory in 1822 without accomplishing; the object. Franklin, in descending; the Coppermine River, was accom- j)anied by as heroic a s(;t of officers and men as ever trod a deck; among the former were Dr. Richardson, Lieutenant Back and lieutenant Hood, and among the latter a faithful LIEUTENANT BACK'S START— A JOURNEY OF 500 MILES FOR FOOD. seaman named Hepburn. The Coppermine River had never been thoroughly explored, and the rjnterprlse was one of great danorer. Ascending the Hayes River on their inland route to the Coppermine, they accomplished 700 miles of river jour- ney, over rapids and falls and obstacles and difficulties innu- merable. From the 9th of September to the end of October i 22 AKCTIC KXl'l.OKATlONS. 11 !i '•i they were engaged in this task, and then the setting in of th'^ ice compelled them to reHnquish their labors in that direction for the present. Franklin, however, was not idle — it was not in the nature of the man to be so — and therefore he. Back and Hepburn started otf in January westward, working up S50 miles, until in March they reached Fort Chipcwjan, where many important observations were made. In July he was joined by Richardson and Hood, and hoped to winter that year at the mouth of the Coppermine. A large party was made up, consisting of Franklin and his friends, seventeen French-Canadian voyageurs, three interpreters, and a con- siderable number of Indians who were to act as guides and hunters under the leadership of one Akaitcho. The start was all that could be desired, game plentiful, and everything prom- ised well. But as they advanced to the north a change came over the spirit of their dream , tood grew scarce, the diffi- culty of transit increased, and at last Akaitcho declared that to advance farther meant for the whole party to perish miser- ably. Franklin persisted, however, and would have braved all the prophesied risks, till Akaitcho said : " I will send some of my young men with you if you persist in going forward, but from the moment they set foot in your canoes I and my relatives shall mourn for them as dead." Discretion being the better part of valor, Franklin reluctantly determined to settle in winter quarters and continue the exploration in the summer. The place chosen for wintering was at Fort Enter- prise, near the head of the Coppermme, and between 500 and 600 miles from Fort Chipewyan, the distance traversed by the gallant company in the course of the year 1820 having been 1,520 miles. During the winter food grew scarcer and scarcer, until at last starvation was threatened. In addition to their own party, the Indians had to be provided for, and this greatly im- poverished their resources. The Indians knew this, and, with a generosity which Christian men might sometimes imitate, gave their own food to the strangers who seemed more to need it. " We a'-e used to starvation, you are not," they said. Hy-and-by a time came when the situation was gloomy in the extreme, ammunition and other articles, indispensable to the progress of the expedition, and footl were fast failing. What was to be done ? There was only one course open, and that was to journey on foot a distance of over 500 miles to Fort ARCTIC EXPEDITIONS OK MNElKKMll CliMURY. 23 aid. the the ^lat that •"ort Chipewyan, in the depth of an Arctic winter, for supplies. A volunteer was soon found. Lieutenant Back was not a man to allow his comrades to perish while he had strength and vigor to save them, and he undertook to perform the journey DR. RICHARDSON, UK SIR JOHN FRANKLIN'S KXrKDITlON, HIS COMPANION HEIHURN. SAVING and obtain the needful supplies. Day after day he and his companions toiled on over ice and snow, and night after night braved the inclemency of the weather by camping out of doors. With snow-shoes o-allinqf their feet and ankles till 1^ 24 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. Hi 'til they bled profusely ; with only sufficient food to keep them from starving, and, therefore, rendering them all the more susceptible to cold ; with weather unusual in the severe re- gion for its severity, on they went, until at last they reached the station, procured four sledges, laden to the full with need- ful things, and the promise of more to follow, and then, after a brief rest, set off again for Fort Enterprise. During the journey Back travelled 1,104 miles, and when he rejoined his companions it was to find that his unprece- dented journey was a success in every respect, for they had arrived at a stage in their experience when the aid he brought was indispensable. In 1820 twenty-three Russian sledge expeditions were made by Von Wrangell and Anjou, who penetrated to lati- tude 70° 51' and longitude 157° 25' west, and reported an open sea in the distant north, which precluded further opera- tions with sledges. In 1821 Captain Parry started on another expedition, and after proceeding through Hudson Strait and Fox Channel as far as Hekla and Fury Strait, returned in 1823. Two years later Franklin descended the Mackenzie River to the sea, and traced the coast for 374 miles. His voyage excended over 2,000 miles. About the same time Captain Beechey had sailed around Cape Horn, and through Behring Strait into Kotzebuc ^ound, but failed to meet Frank- lin. Captain Barry, in 1827, set out for the North Pole with sledge boats, which had been landed upon the northern shore of Spitzbergen, but soon returned, after reaching latitude 82° 45'. An expedition was fitted out in 1829 by Sir Felix Booth, and set out under the command of Captain Ross and Com- mander (afterward Sir James) Ross, in search of a north- western passage by some opening leading out of Prince Regent Inlet. In 1831, while on a sledging expedition. Captain Ross for the first time reached and fixed the position of the true magnetic pole, in latitude 70° 5' 17" and longi- tude 96° 46' 45". After many hardships, Captain Ross re- turned in the autumn of 1833. In the meantime. Back and Dr. King had set out on an overland expedition in search of Captain Ross and his party. They navigated the great Fish (Fhleivee-choh) River, afterward called Back River, reached the ocean at latitude 67° 11', longitude 94° 30', and after pushing forward to latitude 68° 13', returned. The Hudson Bay Company then sent out Dease and Simpson, who K hQllIDCB .*• RICHARDSON'S ADVENTURE WITH WOLVES. ARCTIC EXPEDITIONS OF NIMETEENTH CENTURY. 25 descended the Mackenzie River to the sea, and then followed the coast to the west as far as Point Barrow. They dis- covered two large rivers, which they called Garry and Col- ville. The^ remained during the winter on Great Bear Lake, and in June, 1838, started on another expedition to the east- ward. They reached the coast by way of the Coppermine, BACK AND HIS ATTENDANTS REJOINING HIS FRIENDS. and findinsf their progress stopped by the ice, a portion of the party set out on an overland expedition in an easterly direc- tion. Passing Franklin's Turn-again, they discovered the Dease Strait, and at its eastern extremity a large headland. To the north they saw an extensive land, which they called Victoria Land. The sea beyond was entirely free of ice. In : 26 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. 1839 th^y sailed through Dease Strait, and reached the spot which had been visited by Back five years previous. The entire American coast Hne had now been explored, except that portion lying between Dease and Simpson's extreme point on the west and Felix Harbor on the east, and that por- tion lying between Felix Harbor and that point reached by Parry in 1822, at the entrance of the Strait of Hekla and Fury. To settle the question whether it was possible to pass with ships between Bothnia and the American mainland, the Hud- son Bay Company, in 1846, sent out Dr. John Rae, who proved that there is no outlet toward the west through Prince Regent Inlet. Dr. Rae explored Committee Bay, and reached a point from which he saw a headland, which he called Cape EUice, within ten miles of Fury and Hekla Strait. Thus was finished, with the exception of luiry and Hekla Strait, a geo- graphical exploration of the north coast of the American continent on May 27th, 1847. Sir John Franklin, with the Erebus and Terror, each fitted out with a small steam-engine and a screw-propeller, and the two carrying 129 men and provisions for three years, in May, 1845, sailed on his last expedition to discover the northwestern passage. His instructions were to pass through Baffin Bay and Lancaster Sound, then west in about latitude 74° 15' to about longitude 98°, thence to penetrate south and west toward Behring Strait. The vessels were last seen about the centre of Baffin Bay. The Terror is the vessel in which Captain Sir G. Back made his perilous attempt to reach Repulse Bay, in 1836. The Erebus and Terror were not expected home, un- less success had early rewarded their efforts, or some casualty hastened their return, before the close of 1847, "O"" were any tidings anticipated from them in the interval ; but when the autumn of 1847 arrived without any intelligence of the ships, the attention of the British Government was directed to the necessity of searching for and conveying relief to them in case of their being imprisoned in the ice or wrecked, and in want of provisions and means of transport. For this purpose a searching expedition in three divisions was fitted out by the government in the early part of 1848. The investigation was directed to three different quarters si- multaneously, viz.: I. To that by which, in case of success, ARC lie KXI'KDlTroNS OK NINIiTEENTH CENTUKY. 2^ the ships would come out of the Polar Soa to the westward, or Behring Strait, This consisted of a sinjj^le ship, the Plover, commanded by Captain Moore, which left En inland in the latter end of January for the purpose of enierinj^ Hehrincr Strait. It was intended that she should arrive? there SIR je iN 1 KAN'K1,IN in the month of July, and havin^^ looked out for a winter har- bor she might send out her boats northward and eastward, in which directions the discovery ships, if successful, would be met with. The Plover, however, in her first season, never i 38 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. even approached the place of her destination, owing to her setting off too late, and to her bad sailing properties. The second division of the expedition was one of boats, to explore the coast of the Arctic Sea between the Mackenzie i I m THE EREBUS AND TERROR WINTERING AT THE HEAD OF WELLINGTON CHANNEL. and Coppermine rivers, or from the 135th to the 11 5th degree of west longitude, together with the south coast of Wollaston Land, it being supposed that if Sir John Franklin's party had ARCTIC EXPEDITIONS OF NINETEENTH CENTURY. 29 been compelled to leave the ships and take to the boats they would make for this coast, whence they could reach the Hud- son Bay Company's posts. This party \\*as placed under the command of the faithful friend of Franklin and the companion of his former travels, Dr. Sir John Richardson, who landed at New York in April, 1848, and hastened to join his men and boats, which were already in advance toward the Arctic shore. He was, however, unsuccessful in his search. The remaining and most important portion of this search- ing expedition consisted of two ships under the command of Sir James Ross, which sailed in May, 1848, for the locality in which Franklin's ships entered on this course of discovery, viz., the eastern side of Davis Strait. These did not, how- ever, succeed, owing to the state of the ice on getting into Lancaster Sound, until the season for operations had nearly closed. These ships wintered in the neighborhood of Leo- pold Island, Regent Inlet, and missing the store-ship sent out with provisions and fuel to enable them to stop out another year, were driven out through the strait by the pack ice, and returned home unsuccessful. ; The^e tnree expeditions were followed by numerous others sent out by the British Government and by Lady Franklin. In 1850 alone, eight expeditions were out. In 1 85 1 Lieutenant McClintock reached, in longitude 114° 20', latitude 74° 38', the farthest western limit ever attained by explorers starting from Baffin Bay. In 1852 Commander Inglewood sailed up Smith Sound to latitude 78° 28' 21", 140 miles further than any previous navigators had reached, and established the existence of a channel connecting Baffin Bay with the great polar basin. Traces of the Franklin expedition were found in 1850 at Cape Riley and Beechey Island, and articles belonging to Sir John Franklin's officers were seen in possession of the Esquimaux at Selby Bay in 1854 by Dr. Rae, but authentic information concerning the fate of Franklin was only obtained in 1859. An expe- dition sent out by Lady Franklin under Captain Francis McClintock passed in 1857 through Baffin Bay, Lancaster Sound, and Prince Regent Inlet to Bellpt Strait, whence sledge expeditions were made to King William Land. Here, in 1859, were found relics of Sir John Franklin's expedition. At Point Victory was found a tin case containing a brief record dated May 28th, 1847, to the effect that the expedition 30 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. !; if ;1 .j ' ■ i had passed the previous winter in latitude 70° 5', longitude 98° 23', and that of the previous year at Beecliey Island after ascending the Wellington Ciiannel to latitude 77°, and retuin- ing by the west side of Cornwallis Island. All the party DR. RAE FINDING THE MUTILATED CORPSE OF ONE OF • SIR JOHN FRANKLIN'S MEN. were then well. On the margin was another record dated April 25th, 1848, to the effect that 105 men under Captain Crosier had abandoned the two vessels on April 2 2d, five ARCTIC EXPEDITIONS OF NINETEENTH CENTURY. 31 leagues N. N. W., and had landed at that place, latitude 69**- 37' 42", lonjritude 98° 4' 15"; that Sir John Franklin had died June I lih, 184/, and that the total deaths were nine officers and fifteen men. Quantities of clothing were found but no trace of the vessels. It was evident that the whole expedition iiad perished. It seems that Sir John Franklin passed up Lancaster Sound, explored Wellington Channel to a point farther north than was reached by those who were sent out to search for his party, Penny, De Haven and Belcher, sailed around Cornwallis Island, and wintered on Beechey Island. In the spring and summer of 1846 he either navigated Bellot Strait, or more probably pushed through Peel Sound, and finally reached Victoria Strait, and thus supplied the only H7ik wait- ing to coviplete a chain of water communication between the two oceans. Thus Sir John Franklin is the discoverer of the Northwestern Passage. McClure, in 1850-53, had been the first to pass from Behring Strait to Baffin Bay. It would be ungenerous in telling the story of some of the searches for Sir John Franklin to overlook the services ren- dered by Lieutenant Bellot, the representative of France. Bellot, "'"'" .''c of humble origin, rose to position by his own perseverance and industry. On his first expedition, in the Prince Albert, his conduct was such that he was received in England with enthusiasm; the Bridsh government made known to France how well satisfied it was with the zealous and intelligent co-operation of the young officer. His second expedition was in the Phcenix. Arriving in the Polar regions, it was important that certain despatches should be conveyed to Sir Edward Belcher without delay, and Bellot, who knew that their transmission was one of the special and urgent objects of the mission of the Phoenix and that it was necessary they should be promptly delivered, him- self volunteered to carry them, and with foyr men, a sledge and an india-rubber canoe started off. Bellot talked to his men of the danger of their position. He went forth to see how the ice was driving, and in a few minutes afterwards one of his men followed him. The wind was blowing with a ter- rific fury. Bellot was not to be seen. His name was shouted, but no answer came. On the opposite side of a crack about five fathoms wide was his stick. And that was all ! There could be no doubt that when he went forward to see how the ice was driving the wind carried I 32 ARCTIC MXl'LOKATIONS. .him off his feet and he slipped into the crack, from which he never arose a^ain. Never was a young hero mourned more deeply than he. All France mourned him, and England LIEUTENANT J. BELLOT. mourned him, and even the Esquimaux, when they heard of his death, cried out with bitter weeping: "Poor BellotI poorBellot!" chaptp:r III. THE FIRST AMERICAN ARCTIC EXPEDITIONS. The first Grinnell Expedition under command of Lieutenant De Haven — After wintering near Beechey Island it returns safely to New Yoric — Traces of Sir John Frankhn's Ex- pedition found — An Arctic Winter and its Horrors — Scurvy — The Expedition of Com- mander Inglefield, of the British Navy — He reaches Latitude 78° 28' 21''', al)out 140 miles farther north than had been previously attained — Lieutenant Osborn's Expedition. In 1850 an expedition was sent out by Mr. Henry Grinnell, a merchant of New York, in search of Sir John Franklin and his companions. Mr. Grinnell's expedition consisted of only two small brigs, the Advance of one hundred and forty tons, the Rescue of only ninety tons. The former had been engaged in the Havana trade, the latter was a new vessel built for the merchant service. Both were strength- ened for the Arct* ■: voyage at a heavy cost. The command was given to Lieutenant E. De Haven, a young naval officer, who accompanied the United States exploring expedition. The result has proved thajt a better choice could not have been made. His officers consisted of Mr. Murdoch, sailing- master; Dr. E. K. Kane, surgeon and naturalist; and Mr. Lovell, midshipman. The Advance had a crew of twelve men when she sailed ; two of them complaining of sickness, and expressing a desire to return home, were left at the Dan- ish settlement at Disco Island, on the coast of Greenland. The expedition left New York on the 23d of May, 1850, and was absent a little more than sixteen months. They passed the eastern extremity of Newfoundland ten days after leaving Sandy Hook, and then sailed E. N. E., directly for Cape Comfort, on the coast of Greenland. The .weather was generally fine, and only a single accident occurred on the voyage to that country of frost and snow. Off the coast of Labrador they met an iceberg making its way toward the tropics. The night was very dark, and as the huge voyager had no " light out," the Advance could not be censured for running foul. She was punished, however, by the loss of her 3 (33) ih." ••rrt 34 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. jib-boom, as she ran against the iceberg at the rate of seven or eight knots an hour. The voyagers sailed along the southwest coast of Green- land, sor'etimes in the midst of broad acres of broken ice, as far as Whale Island. From Whale Island a boat, with two officers and four sea- men, was sent to Disco Island, a distance of about twenty-six miles, to a Danish settlement there, to procure skin clothing and other articles necessary for use during the rigors of a polar winter. When the expedition reached Melville Bay, which, on ac- count of its fearful character, is also called the Devil's Nip, the voyagers began to witness more of the grandeur and perils of Arctic scenes. Icebergs of all dimensions came bearing down from the polar seas. They also encountered immense floes, with only narrow channels between, and at times their situation was exceedingly perilous. On one occa- sion, after heaving through fields of ice for five consecutive weeks, two immense floes, between which they were making their way, gradually approached each other, and for several hours they expected their vessels would be crushed. An im- mense cake of ice, six or eight feet thick, slid under the Rescue, lifting her almost " high and dry," and careening her partially upon her beam ends. By means of ice-anchors (large iron hooks) they kept her from capsizing. In this po- sition they remained about sixty hours, when, with saws and axes, they succeeded in relieving her. The ice now opened a litde, and they finally warped through into clear water. While they were thus confined, polar bears came around them in abundance, greedy for prey, and the seamen indulged a little in the perilous sports of the chase. The open sea continued but a short time, when they again became entangled :imong bergs, floes and hummocks, and en- countered the most fearful perils. Sometimes they anchored their vessels to icebergs and sometimes to floes, or masses of hummock. It was in this fearful region that they first encoun- tered pack-ice, and there they were locked in from the 7th to the 23d of July. During that time they were joined L/y the yacht Prince Albert, commanded by Captain Forsyth, of the British Navy, and together the three vessels were anchored for a while to an immense piece of ice, in sight of the Devil's Thumb. That high, rocky peak, situated in latitude 74**^ HkSl AMKKUAN ARl TIC KXI'KI )rn().\S. 35 22', was about thirty miles distant, and, with the dark hills adjacent, presented a strange aspect wi.ere all was white and (ditterinor. From the Devil's Thumb the American ves- sels passed onward throuo^h the pack toward Sabine Island, I HE AUVANCK AND TMK KKSCUE IN A "LKAD" OV ICE. while the Prince Albert essayed to make a more westerly course. They reached Cape York in the ben^innino- of Aucrust. At Cape Dudley Digges they were charmed by th.e sight of the Crimson Cliffs, spoken of by Captain Parry and other ( t ARf:iIC KXI'LOKATIUNS. V Hi U Arctic navio^ators. These are lofty cliffs of dark brown stone covered with snow of a rich crimson color. This was the most northern point to which the expedition penetrated. The whole coast which they had passed from Disco to this cape is high, ruoged and barren, only some of the low points, stretch- ing into the sea, bearing a species of dwarf fir. Northeast from the cape rise the Arctic Highlands to an unknown alti- tude ; and stretching away northward is the unexplored Smith's Sound, filled with impenetrable ice. From Cape Dudley Digges, the Advance and Rescue made Wolstenholme Sound, and then changing their course to the southwest, emerged from the fields into the open waters of Lancaster Sound. Here, on the 1 8th of August, they encoun- tered a tremendous gale, which lasted about twenty-four hours. The two vessels parted company during the storm and re- mained separate several days. Across Lancaster Sound the Advance made her way to Barrow's Straits, and on the 2 2d discovered the Prince Albert on the southern shore of the straits, near Leopold Island, a mass of lofty, precipitous rocks, dark and barren, and hooded and draped with snow. The two vessels remained together a day or two, when they parted company, the Prince Albert to return home and the Advance to make further explorations. It was off Leopold Island, on the 2 2d of August, that the "mad Yankee" took the lead through the vast masses of floating ice. From Leopold Island the Advance proceeded to the north- west, and on the 25 th reached Cape Riley, another amorphous mass, not so regular and precipitate as Leopold Island, but more lofty. Here a strong tide, setting in to the shore, drifted the Advance toward the beach, where she stranded. Around her were small bergs and large masses of floating ice, all under the influence of the strong current. It was about two o'clock in the afternoon when she struck. By diligent labor in remov- ing everything from her deck to a small floe, she was so light- ened that at four o'clock the next morning she floated, and s^on everything was properly replaced. Near Cape Riley the Americans fell in with a portion of an English expedition, and there also the Rescue, left behind in the gale in Lancaster Sound, overtook the Advance. There was Captain Penny with the Sophia and Lady Franklin ; the veteran Sir John Ross with the Felix, and Commodore Austin with the Resolute steamer. Together the navigators of both FIRST AMERICAN ARCTIC EXPEDITIONS. $f nations explored the coast at and near Cape Riley, and on the 27th they saw in a cove on the shore of Beechey Island, or Beechey Cape, on the east side of the entrance to Wellington Channel, unmistjakable evidence that Sir John Franklin and his companions were there in April, 1846. There they found many articles known to belong to the British Navy, and some that were the property of the Erebus and Terror, the ships under the command of Sir John. There lay, bleached to the whiteness of the surrounding snow, a piece of canvas with the name of the Terror marked upon it with indestructible charcoal. It was very faint, yet perfectly legible. Near it was a guide-board lying flat upon its face, having been prostrated by the wind. It had evidently been used to direct exploring parties to the vessels, or, rather, to the encampment on shore. The board was pine, thirteen inches in length and six and a half in breadth, and nailed to a boarding pike eight feet in length. It is sup- posed that the sudden opening of the ice caused Sir John to depart hastily, and in so doing this pike and its board were left behind. They also found a large number of tin canisters, such as are used for packing meats for a sea-voyage; an anvil block; remnants of clothing, which evinced by numerous patches and their threadbare character that they had been worn as long as the owners could keep them on; the remains of an India-rubber glove, lined with wool; some old sacks; a cask, or tub, partly filled with charcoal, and an unfinished rope- mat, which, like other fibrous fabrics, was bleached white. But the most melancholy traces of the navigators were three jjfraves in a little sheltered cove, each with a board at the hedd hearing the name of the sleeper below. These inscriptions AJStify positively when Sir John and his companions were there. The board at the head of the grave on the left has the following inscription: "Sacred to the memory of John Torrington, who departed this life January ist, a. d. 1846, on board her Majesty's ship Terror, aged 20 years." On the centre one — "Sacrec to the memory of John Hart- NELL, A. B., of her Majesty's ship Erebus; died January 4th, 1846, aged 25 years. 'Thus.saith the Lord of Hosts, Con- sider your ways;' Haggai, chap, i., 5, 7." On the right — " Sacred to the memory of W. Braine, R. M., of her Majesty's ship Erebus, who died April 3d, 1846, aged 32 years. * Choose you this day whom you will serve ; ' Joshua, chap. xxiv.. part of the i c;th verse." |8 AUCl'lC EXPLORATIONS. How much later than April 3d Sir John remained at Beechey cannot be determined. They saw evidences of his having ofone northward, for sledee tracks in that direction were visible. Leaving Beechey Cape, the expedition lorced its way through the ice to Barrow's Inlet, where they narrowly escaped being frozen in for the winter. They endeavored to enter the inlet, for the purpose of making it their winter quarters, but were prevented by the mass of pack-ice at its entrance. It was on the 4th of September, 1850, when they arrived there, and after remainini^- seven or eight days, they aban- doned the attempt to enter. On the right and left are seen the dark rocks at the entrance of the inlet, and in the centre of the frozen waters and the range of hills beyond. There was much smooth ice within the inlet, and while the vessels lay anchored to the " field," officers and crew exercised and amused themselves by skating. On the left of the inlet (in- dicated by the dark conical object), they discovered a cairn (a heap of stones with a cavity), eight or ten (eit in height, which was erected by Captain Ommaney of the English expe- dition then in the polar waters. Within it he had placed two letters, for "Whom it might concern." Commander De Haven also deposited a letter there. The rocks, here, pre- sented vast fissures made by the frost ; and at the foot of the cliff on the right, that pow^erful agent had cast down vast heaps of debris. From Barlow's Inlet, our expedition moved slowly west- ward, battling with the ice every rood of the way, until they reached Griffin's Island, at about 96° w^est longitude from Greenwich. This was attained on the nth, and was the extreme westing made by the expedition. All beyond seemed impenetrable ice ; and, despairing of making^any further dis- coveries before the winter should set in, they resolved to return home. Turning eastward, they hoped to reach Davis' Strait by the southern route, before the cold and darkness came on ; but tliey were doomed to disappointment. Near the entrance to Wellington Channel they became completely locked in by hummock-ice, and soon found themselves drifting with an irresistible tide up that channel toward the pole. The summer day was drawing to a close ; the diurnal visits of the pale sun were rapidly shortening, and soon the long polar night, with all its darkness and horrors, would fall upon them. Slowly they drifted in those vast fields of ice, whither, FIRST AMERICAN ARCTIC KXPEDITIONS. 39 or to what result, they knew not. Locked in the moving yet compact mass; liable at every moment to be crushed; far away from land ; the mercury sinking daily lower and lower from the zero figure, toward the point where that metal freezes, they felt small hope of ever reaching home again. Vcc they prepared for winter comforts and winter sports, as cheerfully as if lying safe in Barlow's Inlet As the winter LADY FRANKLIN. advanced, the crews of both the vessels went on board the larger one. They unshipped the rudders of each, to prevent their being injured by the ice, covered the deck of the Ad- vance with felt, prepared their stores, and made arrangements for enduring the long winter now upon them. Physical and mental activity being necessary for the preservation of health, n M 40 ARCriC EXPLORATIONS. they daily exercised in the open air for several hours. They built ice huts, hunted the huge white bears and the little polar foxes, and when the darkness of the winter night had spread over them they arranged indoor amusements and employ- ments. Before the end of October, the sun made its appearance for the last time, and the awful polar night closed in. Early in November they wholly abandoned the Rescue, and both crews made the Advance their permanent winter home. The cold soon became intense; the mercury congealed, and the spirit thermometer indicated 46° below zero. Its average range was 30° to 35°. They had drifted helplessly up Wel- lington Channel, almost to the latitude from whence Captain Penny saw an open sea. All this while the in«mense fields of hummock-ice were moving, and the vessels w^ere in hourly danger of being crushed and destroyed. At length, while driftinof through Barrow's Straits, the cons^ealed mass, as if crushed together by the opposite shores, became more com- pact, and the Advance was elevated almost seven feet by the stern, and keeled two feet eight inches starboard. In tliis position she remained, with very little alteration, for five con- secutive months ; for, soon after entering Baffin Bay in the midst of the winter, the ice became frozen .in one immense tract, covering millions of acres. Thus frozen in, sometimes more than a hundred miles from land, they drifted slowly along the southwest coast of Baffin Bay, a distance of more than a thousand miles from Wellington Channel. For eleven weeks that dreary night continued, and during that time the disc of the sun was never seen above the horizon. Yet nature was not wholly forbidding in aspect. Sometimes the Aurora Borealis would flash up still farther northward; and sometimes Aurora Parhelia — mock suns and mock mo6ns — would appear in varied beauty in the starry sky. Brilliant^ too, were the northern constellations ; and when the moon was at its full, it made its stately circuit in the heavens, with- out descending below the horizon, and lighted up the vast piles of ice with a pale lustre, almost as great as the morning twilisjhts of more genial skies. Around the vessels the crews built a wall of ice ; and in ice huts the> stowed away their cordage and stores, to make room for exercise on the decks. They organized a theatrical company, and amused themselves and the officers with comedy " ■- ■ -*- "^tff^xi eg" of i^c/iSO h-tlLi^ t^AMn^at L'-ZtJry^^ /tO vsc;;^ ^If^ UJ^/uuMci^ i C/iA'%>,A>t0t..ab^^ ti I ^rp I Whoever finds Ihis paper is V^^ of the Admiralty, London, wif/i requcslcd to forward it lotho Secretary ally, London, wxlh a noic of the ttine and place at whtcli il was found, or, if moro convenient, lo deliver It fur that purpose to the British Consul al the nearesl Port. QuicoNOfcE Irouvera cc papipr est fid d'y mariner le temps et le lieu oil il I'aura trouv6, el Jo lo f&ire parvenir au plus tol au secretaire de I'A miraut^ brilanniqiio h Londrcs, CuALQUiERA quo liallarQ csle Papel, so Ic suplica doenviarlo al Socrc- lario del Almiranlazgo> en LendriSa, con una nola del tiempo y dol lugar en dondo se kalld. Fen iederdiodilPapirr mogl vlndco, wordl hiermede verogt, om het zclvc, ten spoedigste, to willen zcnden aan den Heer Minister van do Marine der Nederlanden in 's Gravenhago, of wcl aan den Secretaris den Britsche Admiraliteit, te London, en daar by le vocgeh eene Notn, in- houdende de lyd on de plaats alwaar dit Papier is gevonden geworden. FiHDEncN af dello Papiir cmliedes, naar Lellighed gives, at sende sara- tne til Admiralitels Secretairen i London, eiler nocrmeste Embedsmand i Danmark, T^orge, eller Sverrig. Tiden og Slocdit hvor delto er fundot dnskes venskabeligt paategnet. Wer dlesen 2etlel (indet, wird hier-durch ersucht denselben an den Secretair des Admiralilets in London elnzusenden, mit,gefa^ligC^ a/i- gabo an welchon ort und zu welchcr. zeit er gefundct worden tst. Ett§nr^f-|Jri,fl^,S^ 'to. (fl:Aj (!\^ v« FACSIMILE OF RECORD FOUND BY LIEUT. HOBSON. im m I t s s » 11 a b si in P< gl W( hi hi va FIRST AMERICAN ARCTIC EXPEDITIONS. 41 well performed. Behind the pieces of hummock each actor learned his part, and by means of calico they transformed themselves into female characters, as occasion required. These dramas were acted on the deck of the Advance, sometimes while the thermometer indicated 30° below zero, and actors and audiences highly enjoyed the fun. They also went in parties during that long night, fully armed, to hunt the polar bear, the grim monarch of the frozen north, on which occasions they often encountered perilous adventures. They played at foot-ball, and exercised themselves in drawing sledges, heavily laden with provisions. Five hours of each twenty-four they thus exei*cised in the open air, and once a week each man washed his whole body in cold snow-water. Serious sickness was consequently avoided, and the scurvy, which attacked them, soon yielded to remedies. Often during that fearful night they expected the disaster of having their vessels crushed. All through November and December, before the ice became fast, they slept in their clothes, with knapsacks on their backs, and sledges upon the ice, laden with stores, not knowing at what moment the ves- sels might be demolished, and themselves forced to leave them, and make their way toward land. On the 8th of December and the 23d of January, they actually lowered their boats and stood upon the ice, for the crushing masses were making the timbers of the gallant vessel creak and its decks to rise in the centre. They were then ninety miles from land, and hope hardly whispered an encouraging idea of life being sustained. On the latter occasion, when officers and crew stood upon the ice, with the ropes of their provision sledges in their hands, a terrible snow-drift came from the northeast, and intense darkness shrouded them. Had the vessel then been crushed, all must have perished. Early in February the northern horizon began to be streaked with gorgeous twilight, the herald of the approach- ing king of day ; and on the i8th the disc of the sun first ap- peared above the horizon. As its golden rim rose above the glittering snow-drifts and piles of ice, three hearty cheers went up from those hardy mariners. Day after day it rose higher and higher, and while the pallid faces of the voyagers, bleached during that long night, darkened by its beams, the vast masses of ice began to yield to its fervid influence. The scurvy disappeared, and from that time untii their arrival 4» ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. home not a man suffered from sickness. As they slowly drifted through Davis' Straits, and the ice gave indications of breaking u;\ the voyagers made preparations for saiHng. The Rescue was reoccupied (May 13th, 1851), and her stone-post, which had been broken by the ice in Harrow's Straits, was repaired. To accompHsh this they were obHged to dig away the ice, which was from twelve to fourteen feet thick around her. They reshipped their rudders, removed the felt covering, placed their stores on deck, and then pa- tiently awaited the disruption of the ice. This event was very sudden and appalling. It began to give way on the 5th of June, and in the space of twenty minutes the whole mass, as far as the eye could reach, became one vast field of moving floes. On the loth of June they emerged into open water, a litde south of the Arctic Circle, in latitude 65° 30'. They immediately repaired to Godhaven, on the coast of Green- land, where they refitted, and, unappalled by the perils through which they had just passed, they once more turned their prows northward to encounter anew the ice squadrons of Baffin Bay. Again they traversed the coast of Greenland to about the 73d degree, when they bore to the westward, and on the 7th and 8th of July passed the English whaling fleet near the Dutch Islands. Onward they pressed through the accumulating ice to Baffin Island, where, on the nth, they were joined by the Prince Albert, then out upon another cruise. They continued in company until the 3d of August, when the Albert departed for the westward, de- termined to try the more southern passage. Here again the expedition encountered vast fields of hummock-ice, and were subjected to the most imminent perils. The floating ice, as if moved by adverse currents, tumbled in huge masses, and reared upon the sides of the sturdy little vessels like monsters of the deep intent upon destruction. These masses broke in the bulwarks, and sometimes fell over upon the decks with terrible force, like rocks rolled over a plain by mountain tor- rents. The noise was fearful ; so deafening that the mariners could scarcely hear each other's voices. The sounds of these rolling masses, together with the rending of the icebergs floating near, and the vast floes, produced a din like the dis- charge of a thousand pieces of ordnance upon a field of batde. Finding the north and west closed against further progress FIRST AMERICAN ARCTIC EXPEDITIONS. 43 by impenetrable ice, the brave De Haven was balked, and turning his vessels homeward they came out into an open sea, somewhat crippled, but not a plank seriously started. During a storm off the banks of Newfoundland, a thousand miles from New York, the vessels parted company. The Advance arrived safely at the navy yard at Brooklyn on the 30th of September, and the Rescue joined her there a few days afterward. Toward the close of October the government resigned the vessels into the hands of Mr. Grinnell to be used in other service, but with the stipulation that they were to be subject to the order of the Secretary of the Navy in the spring if required for another expedition in search of Sir John Franklin. In 1852 Commander Inglefield set out on an expedition in the Engiish steamer Isabel from Fair Island. On the 30th day of July the expedition first saw the snowy mountains of Greenland. Several Danish settlements were visited, and then it proceeded to Smidi's Sound, the upper or nordiern continuation of Baffin Bay. The western shore of this body of water, which forms a part of the polar ocean, was composed of a high range of ice-covered mountains, which were called after the Prince of Wales. The extreme northern point of these mountains was named Victoria Head in honor of the British Queen. The most northern point discovered by Cap- tain Inglefield on the eastern shore of this sea was named by him after the Danish monarch Frederick VII. This steamer reached latitude 78° 28' 21", about 140 miles farther north than had been attained by any previous navigator. Not hav- ing discovered any traces of Sir John Franklin Captain In- glefield returned after an absence of precisely four months from the day of starting. Another expedition in search of Sir John Franklin started in 1850 under instructions of the British Admiralty. It was commanded by Lieutenant Sherard Osborn, and consisted of the steam-vessels Pioneer and In- trepid, and returned to England in October, 1851. Other British expeditions were commanded by Sir John Richardson and Captain William Kennedy. I ' I CHAPTKR IV. THE SECOND GRINNELL EXPHDITION, COMMANDED BY DR. E. K. KANE. Two Winters in the Arctic Region, tiie first in Latitude 78° 37', I.onjjitiule 70° 40' — A Sledge Expedition from here inislics as far as Cape Constitution in Waslnngton I-and, Latitude Si° 27', and finds Kennedy Channel free from Ice, abounding with Animal Life, and opening in a great I'olar Sea — Safe Return to the United States in 1855. Of the several expeditions sent out in 1853 the most im- portant was that fitted out by Mr. Grinnell, of New York,. Mr. Peabody, of London, and others, and commanded by Dr. E. K. Kane. Dr. Kane received his orders from the Navy Department at Washington to conduct an expedition into the Arctic re- gions in search of the great English navigator. The ship Advance, in which he had formerly sailed, was placed under his command. His party numbered seventeen picked men.. The brig sailed from the port of New York on the 30th of May, 1853, '^^^ •" eighteen days arrived at St. John's, New- foundland. After providing themselves at this place with an additional stock of fresh meat, and a valuable team of Esqui- mau dogs, they steered for the coast of Greenland. On the 1st of July Dr. Kane entered the harbor of Fisker- noes, one of the Danish settlements of Greenland. Some fresh provisions were here obtained, and an Esquimau hunter of superior skill was enlisted in the service of the party. Proceeding on from this point the other Danish settlements of Greenland were successively visited — Lichtenfels, Sukker- toppen. Proven, Upernavik, at the last of which places the first Grinnell expedition of 1851 had rested after its winter drift. At length they reached Yotlik, the most northern point in Greenland inhabited by human beings. Beyond this the coast may be regarded as having been until that period unexplored. From Yotlik Dr. Kane steered northward to- ward Baffin Islands, which he found then clear of ice, and (44) . SECOND GUINNF.LL I'.Xl'KDITION. 45 passing by Duck Island bore away for Wilcox Point. As he apprpached Melville Bay he was enveloped in a thick fog, during the prevalence of which he drifted among the icebergs. After a hard day's work with the boats, they towed the brig away from these unpleasant and dangerous neighbors. He then determined to stand wect-ward and double Melville Bay by an outside passage, unless prevented and intercepted by the pack. On the 5th of August they passed the Crimson Cliffs, so called from the appearance usually presented by their snow- clad summits. Next day they reached Hakluyt Island, which is surmounted by a tall spire springing six hundred feet into the heavens above the level of the water. They soon passed Capes Alexander and Isabella, and thus entered Smith's Sound. Having reached Litdeton Island, Dr. Kane deter- mined to deposit here a supply of provisions and some per- manent traces of his route, to be used in case it should be necessary afterward to send an expk ling party to discover the fate of his own. The life-boat was accordingly buried here, containing a supply of pemmican, blankets, and India- rubber cloth. They endeavored to fortify the precious de- posit from the claws of the polar bear. The 20th of August still found the brig and her crew navi- gating the dangerous and ice-ladened waters of Smith's Sound. At this date they encountered a storm of extraordinary fury, and made one of those narrow escapes from destruction which sometimes give an air more of romance than of reality to the adventures of Arctic explorers. In a terrific gale their three hawsers were broken, and the brig drifted with fearful rapidity under the furious pressure of the storm. The navi- gators continued their northern route by tracking along the ice-belt which hugs the frozen shore. On the 23d of August they had reached 78° 41' north latitude. This placed them farther north than any of their predecessors had been, except Captain Parry. From his researches in this region. Dr. Kane came to the conclusion that this coast of Greenland faced to the north. His longitude here was 78° 41' west. After sixteen miles of foot journey, the company reached a great headland, to which they gave the name of Thackeray. Eight miles far- ther on a similar eminence attracted their attention, to which they applied the epithet of Hawkes. The table-lands here " [!■ 'til 1 1 > 1 1 1 if 'I I ' 1 I ■Ji i ;■■ 46 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. were twelve hundred feet high. The party continued their difficult and dangerous journey until they reached some lofty- headlands, where they determined to terminate their excursion. These reached an altitude of eleven hundred feet, and over- looked an expanse extending beyond the eightieth parallel of latitude. The view from this elevation was marked by every element of gloomy and cheerless magnificence. On s ^Ki DR. K. K. KANE. the left, the western shore of the sound stretched away toward the northern pole. To the right, a rugged and rolling country appeared, which ended in the Great Humboldt Glacier. To- ward the northeast, the projecting headland called Cape Andrew Jackson appeared, and the vast area between was a sea of solid ice. Farther still, a sea of icebergs presented their rugged and unseemly bulks to the eye of the observer. Having carefully examined the whole country as far as his SECOND GKINNELL EXPEDITION. 47 crlasses would reach, Dr. Kane determined to return to the Advance. Winter was now rapidly approaching, and it was necessary to select some appropriate spot in which the crew and the vessel might pass its long, gloomy and dangerous interval. For various reasons, Dr. Kane resolved to remain where he then was. He had arrived at the conclusion that Rensselaer Harbor would be the most desirable winter-quar- ters, and on the loth of September they commenced the labors necessary to render their position tenable and safe. They removed the contents of the hold of the vessel to a store- house which they prepared on Butter Island. A deck-house was built on the vessel, in which the different qualities of ven- tilation, warmth, dryness, room and comfort were sought to the utmost possible extent. A site for the observatory was selected. Stones were hauled over the ice on sledges for its erection. Its location was on a rocky inlet about a hundred yards from the vessel, which they named Fern Rock. Prepa- rations were also made preparatory to the work of establish- ing provision depots on the coast of Greenland. The advan- tage of these provision depots will appear from the fact that by their assistance expeditions of search could afterward be conducted with the use of sledges and dogs. The provisions for the latter, if taken on the journeys themselves, form so heavy a load as seriously to embarrass the movements of the travellers. But when they were released from this labor these dogs conveyed the sledges and their occupants on long jour- neys successfully, and with great rapidity, on their tours of examination. On the 20th of September the first party organized to estab- lish provision depots was sent out. It consisted of seven men. A sledge thirteen feet in length, ca'ied the Faith, was filled with pemmican, and was drawn by those attached to it by means of track-ropes, termed rue-raddies, which were passed around the shoulder and under the arms. The intended loca- tion of this depot was sixty miles from the brig, on the Green- land coast. The life of the party which remainc^d in the vessel was not devoid of incident and interest. By the loth of October the party which had been sent to establish the first depot of pro- visions had been absent twenty days, and their return was anxiously expected. Dr. Kane at length determined to start out in search of them. He travelled with one companion on I ' 48 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. a sledge drawn by four Esquimau dogs. He averaged twenty miles per day with this singular team. On the 15th, several hours before sunrise, he perceived on the distant and snowy ■waste a dark object which seemed to move. It proved to be the returning depot party. They had travelled at the rate of eighteen miles per day, and had been twenty-eight days en- gaged in their laborious expedition. Some of their limbs had been frozen, and they had met with other mishaps, though none were of a very serious nature, and they had accomplished the purpose for which they had been sent out. The greeting which ensued on their return to the ship was hearty on both sides. They had made the first deposit of provision at Cape Russell. Thirty miles farther on they left about a hundred and ten pounds of pemmican and beef, about thirty pounds of a mixture of pemmican and meal, and a bag of bread. On the loth of October they made their third and last deposit on an island called James McGary, after the second officer of the expedition. Here they erected a cairn and buried six hundred and seventy pounds of pemmican and forty of meat, biscuit, ■with other items, making in all eight hundred pounds. By the 7th of November, 1853, the darkness of an Arctic winter began to settle down upon them. It was necessary to keep the lamps lit constantly. In spite of the intense cold, Dr. Kane continued to make his magnetic observations in the observatory. When the thermometer stood at forty-nine degrees below zero, and even at sixty-four degrees below zero, he still effected his astronomical investigations and cal- culations. On the 2 1st of January the first traces of the returning light became visible. Its approach was indicated by a beaute- ous orange tint, which flushea the distant southern horizon. But still the darkness seemed to be eternal and unvarying. The continued absence of light appeared to affect the health of the party as much as the excessive rigor of the cold. By the 2 1 St of February the sun's rays became clearly visible, and, when March arrived, it brought with it the almost perpetual day wiiich alternately takes the place in the Arctic realms of almost perpetual night. By the i8th of March the spring tides began to break and move the massive ice which still bound the Arctic Sea. The ice commenced to grind and crush, the water to dash to and fro, and the vessel to rise and descend in a range of seven- 1 ,11''' r THE EREBUS AND THE TERROR. teen I prepa: siimni resear t rived, occupi *i i reappean TJiey had disabled, ; stant relie Not ar returned ; wrapped i SECOND GKINNKLL I'.XPKDHION 49 teen feet per clay. On tlie 20th a depot party was sent out preparatory to the commencement of the operations of the summer. The necessary pre[)arations for inland trips and researches were made, sledges and accoutrements were con- trived, and moccasins were fabricated. While these labors occupied their attention, a portion of thc^ depot party suddenly 9m^'^l ''^ Jill fffij^^ KANE AND HIS COMPANIONS. reappeared at the vessel. They brought back a terrible report. They had left four of their number lying on the ice frozen and disabled, and they had returned a great distance to obtain in- stant relief. Not a moment was to be lost. Ohlsen, the only one of the returned party who seemed able to give any information, was wrapped up in buffalo robes and placed upon a sledge. Nine 4 !!■ nf 50 AUrriC KXITORATIONS. I I H m 1 1 * : : I men started out to the rescue. The cold was intense, ranLjiiij^ seventy-eii^ht dej^rc'es below the free/.inj^^-jwint. The instaiU the |>arty c(*ased to move they would have bt;en frozen to death. Violent exercise alone kept them alive. When they ventured to a[)ply snow to their lips to slak(* their thirst, it burnt like caustic, and blood imnKnliately followed. .Som(^ o( the men wen; seizeil with tremblini; fits and some witii attacks of short breath. Dr. Kane himself fainted twice upon the snow under the intense cold. After a laborious and dangerous journey of twenty-onc! hours, the lost party were discovered. They were nearly forty miles distant from the brig. Their condition was perilous in the extreme, and t}m succor did not come a moment too soon. But the rescuers were scarcely better off than the rescu(;d. They were compelled to drag a load of nine hundred pounds upon the sleclge, and during their return trip the whole party were in imminent danger of being frozen to death. They could with the utmost difficulty resist the disposition lo sleep, which would have immediately sealed their fate. After a fear Inl journey of several days, the party regained the brig; but the; sufferings of that terrible occasion were almost beyond the power of imagination. They had travelled about ninety miles, and most of the men had become temporarily delirious, nearly all were frozen in some portions of their bodies, and two of them ultimately died in consequence of their exposure. On the 27th of April, the time having arrived to continue his researches both after Sir John Franklin and in Arctic dis- covery. Dr. Kane determined to resume his expedition. He resolved now to follow the ice-belt to the Great Glacier of Humboldt, and thence to stretch along the face of the glacier toward the west of north and make an attempt to cross th*^' ice to the American side of the channel. The object of this bold venture was to attain the utmost limit of the shore of Greenland, to measure the waste which extended between it and the unknown west, and thus to reveal, if possible, some of the mysteries which surrounded the North Pole. The journey was immediately commenced. After many adven- tures and sufferings, the Great Glacier of Humboldt was reached. Dr. Kane now determined to organize a double party, in order to ascertain whether a channel or any form of outlet existed to the northern extremity of the coast of Greenland SKCONI) CRINNKM. KXI'KDniON. 51 He was convinced of the existence of such a channel from the inovements of th(; icelxirjj^s, from tiur ()hysical character of the tides, as well as from certain and uniform analo<^ies of physical ijrcograph.y. On the 3d of June one of the parties of (exploration set out Irom the brig. They ha'd a large sledge thirteen feet long. They aimed directly for the glacier-barrier on the Greenland side. Their ord(;rs were to attempt to scale; the ice and exam- ine the interior of the great mey-dc-j^/ace. On the 27th of June one of the parties, directed by McGary and Bonsall, returned to the brig. .Several of th(;m had become nearly blind. After twelve days' travel, th(;y had n^ached the Great Glacier. Th(!y found the depot of provisions, which had been deposited the previous season, destroyed by th(^ bears. An alcohol cask strongly bound in iron was dashed into fragments, and i* tin liquor can was mashed and twisted into a ball. This party of explorers had found it impossibl • to scale the Great Glacier, and returned to the brig withou Jiaving effected any results of importance. The other party, which had been placed undcer the guidance of Mr. Morton, left the vessel on the 4th of June. On the 15th they reached the foot of the Great Cilacier. They steered liOrthward, keeping parallel with the glacier, and from five to seven miles distant from it. The thickness of the ice over which they journeyed was found to be seven feet five inches. They travelled frequently with the snow u)> to their knees. When they had reached Peabody Hay they encountered the bergs, whose surface was fresh and glassy. Some of these were rectangular in shape and some were square, and their length varied from a quarter of a mile to a mile. The task of travelling over these bergs was full of difficulty and danger. At length they made their way to the ice beyond. On the 19th of June, having encamped, Morton ascended a high berg in order to examine their future route and survey the surrounding desolation. From this point he beheld an extensive plain which stretched away toward the north, which proved to be the Great Glacier of Humboldt. From this point the advance of the party was perilous. They were fre- quently arrested by wide and deep fissures in the ice. Some of these chasms were four feet wide, and contained water at the bottom. From this point they beheld the distant northern shore, termed the " West Land." I I'M 1 1'' 52 AKC'IIC r.Xi I.OKATIONS. At lonortli, by the 21st of jiiiu'. the party reached a point opposite the terniinatioii ot tlieClrcat (llacier. It aiipcimd to be inixeil with earlli and rocks. TravcllinL,^ on tliey rc.'aclicd at length tlu> liead of Keiincxly Channel, and saw beyond that the open water. Passing- in llieir route a cape, thc;y ealltxl it Cape Andrew Jackson, 1 lere they found |L:()od smooth ice; for durinir tht^ kist few ihiys thev liad passed over n)tten ice, which not unfre([uently threatened to break beneatli tlKMii, Havinq^ tMitereil the curvi' of a bay, they named it after Robert Morris, tlie orent financier of the; revohition. Kennedy Channel here ^rew narrower, but afterward it widened asjain. liroken ic(; in larsje masses was lloatin<' in it; but therc^ W(M-e passai;es fifteen miles in width which re- mained jierf(H'tly clear. Six miles inward from the: channel mountains rose to the view. On the 2 2(1 of |une they en- camped, after havini^ travelled forty-eii,du miles in a direct line. They could plainly see tiie opposite slion,', which aj)- peared precipito\is and surmounted with suj^ar-loaf-shai)ed moimtains. At this part of their journey they encountered a polar bear with her cub. A desperate fioht cMisued, in which tlie sin:_;ular instincts of nature were strikingly illus- trated by the: desperate efforts made by the poor brute to protect her hel[)less offspring-, which were slain. A shallow bay covered with ice was then crossed. They [)assed several islands which lay in tlu: channel, which they named after Sir John Franklin and Captain Crozier. The cliffs which here constituted the shore of the channel were very hicfh, towerins^ at least two thousand feet above its surface. The party at- tempted to ascend these cliffs, but found it impossible to mount more than a few^ hundred feet. They here encountered a cape, and the party desired to pass around it in order to as- certain whether there lay any unknown land beyond it. But tliey found it impossible to advance. This then was the ut- most limit and termination of their journey toward the Pole. Mr. Morton ascended an eminence here, and carefully scru- tinized the aspects of nature all around him. Six degrees to- ward the west of north he observed a lofty peak, truncated in its form, and about three thousand feet in height. This ele- vation is named Mount Edward Parry, after the great pioneer of Arctic adventure, and is the most extreme northern point of land known to exist upon the globe. From the position which Mr. Morton had attained he beheld toward the north, M'l (1 it' 'fl ^ll k> ' t I 54 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. from an elevation of four hundred feet, a boundless waste of waters stretching away toward the Pole. Not a particle of ice encumbered its surface. Here was a fluid sea, in the midst of whole continents of ice, and that sea seemed to wash the Pole itself. The eye of the explorer surveyed at least forty miles of uninterrupted water in a northern direction. The point thus reached in this exploring expedition was about five hundred miles distant from the Pole. Had the party been able to convey thither a boat, they might have embarked upon the bright and placid waters of that lonely ocean. But hav- ing been able to make this journey only with the sledge, fur- ther explorations were of course impossible. The most re- markable development connected with these discoveries was, that the temperature was here found to be much more mod- erate than it was farther south. M*arine birds sailed through the heavens. Rippling waves followed each other on the surface of the deep. A few stunted flowers grew over the barren and rocky shore. The inference which may be drawn from these and other facts is, that this open sea, termed the Polar Basin, stretches to the Pole itself, or at least continues a great distance until its course is interrupted by other pro- jections of the earth. The several parties which had been sent forth by Dr. Kane to explore the regions just described having returned, the season of Arctic travel had nearly terminated, and the mem- bers of the expedition were about to relapse into winter- quarters with their usual " darkness, monotony, and gloom. But before resigning themselves entirely to this unwelcome seclusion, Dr. Kane resolved to make an effort to reach Beechey Island. Accordingly Dr. Kane manned his boat, called the Forlorn Hope, which was twenty-three feet long, and six feet and a half beam. The necessary amount of provisions were placed on board and the bold venture was undertaken. Sometimes the boat was navigated through the unfrozen channels of water which intervened between the floes of ice ; at others she was placed on a large sledge called the Faith, and thus transported over the frozen wastes. This party approached Littleton Island, which had been vis- ited by Captain Inglefield. They here obtained a vast quantity of eider ducks. They then passed Flagstaff Point and Com- bermere Cape. Then came Cape Isabella and Cape Freder- ick VII. On the 23d of July they reached Hakluyt Island, SECOND GRINNELL EXPEDITION. $$ and thence they steered for Gary Islands. But on the 31st of July, when they had reached a point but ten miles distant from Cape Parry, their further pront excursions were inaile for tht purpose of capturing- seals. On one of these occasions Ur. Kane narrowly escajied a watery <^rave. 1 le was twelve miles' distance from tlie. l)ri!4 ^^ith a sinj^le attentl- ant. The ice broke beneath their sledoe and they wvrc pre- cipitated into the water. After L^reat exertions and amid ex- treme dauijer they succeeded in r(;gaininL( ice sufficiently strong to bear their weight. They lost their sledge. t(Mit, kayack, guns, and snow-shoes. Th(!y waited patiently for the time to arrive when they could comm(Mice the; necessary preparations for the journey of 1,300 miles which they would undertake in tiie spring. The vess(.'l would evidendy remain so iirmly fixed in an ocean of ice that its removal would be utterly impossibU;. Their return must be effected with the combined us(^ of sledges and boats. Yet, before commencing a final r(;treat, Dr. Kane resolved to attempt once more a northern excursion, hoping that it might result in some useful discovery connected with the object of the expedition. The region which was yet to be explored was the farther shores beyond Kennedy Channel. The aid of the dogs was indispensable to the accomplishment of this task, and there were but four left out of the sixty-two, which composed their stock when they left Newfoundland An arrangement was, however, made with Kalutunah, one of the wandering Ksqui- maux whom they knew, for the use of his dogs and three sledges. Thus reinforced, Dr. Kane, accompanied by several experi(Miced Esquimaux travellers, commenced his jouiney. In two hours they reached a lofty berg fifteen miles north of the brig. The outside channel seemed filled with squeezed ice, and on the frozen plain beyond the bergs appeared to be much distorted. Having returned to the brig. Dr. Kane resumed his prepa- rations for final departure. Frozen fast as she was in the ice, there was no possibility of removing her. The only possible means of escape was by the combined use of boats and sledges. The party went to work industriously in the manu- facture of clothing suitable to the journey. Canvas moccasins were made for each of the party, and a surplus supply of three dozen was added to the stock. SKCONI) GUINNKI.I, KXI'KDITION. 57 The rrif^ans of conveyance ^vhi(•^ \v8 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. i; I , n 1 adventurers were to take their last farewell of the vessel which had been associated with them in so many vicissitudes and dangers. Th'rteen hundred miles of ice and water lay be- tween their r^resent position and the shores of North Green- ; land. The whole return party consisted of seventeen persons, including Dr. Kane. Four of these were sick and unable to move. The rest were divided into two companies and appro- priated to the several boats. Dr. Kane took charge of the dog-team, which was to be used for the purpose of conveying provisions from tlie vessel to the crew during the first few days of their journey. To the boat called Faith, McGary, Ohlsen, Bonsall, Petersen and H'ckey were assigned. To the Hope, Morton, Sontag, Riley, Blake and Godfrey were detailed. The first stage of the journey was to a spot called Anoatok, which had been a halting-place in their winter journeys. It was a single hut, composed of rude and heavy stones, and resembled a cave more th^n it did a house. Strange to say, this bleak and forlorn corner of that frozen hemisphere, the gloomiest and most detestable on the whole face of the globe, bore a name which was imposed by the least poetical of human beings, the Esquimaux, which was not devoid of beauty; for Anoatok in the jargon of the shivering natives means " the wind-loved spot." It was perched on the ( a- treme point of a rocky promontory, and commanded a wide view of the icy straits, both toward the north and south. Dr. Kane had exerted himself to repair the hut, and make it fit to shelter the sick. He had added a door to its broken outlet, and had introduced a stove and stove-pipe. Other improvements had been made. A solitary pane of glass, which once had faced a daguerreotype, was inserted in the door, to give a scanty light. The provisions which had been removed to this place were eight hundred pounds in weight. Seven hundred pounds still remained in the brig, to be re- moved by successive journeys of the dog-team. The services of these six dogs were indeed invaluable. In addition to all their previous journeys, they carried Dr. Kane to and fro, with a well-burdened sledge, nearly eight hundred miles during the first two weeks after they left the brig, being an average of fifty-seven miles per day. So feeble and reduced were the parties who dragged the SECOND GRINNELL KXPEDITION. lor an the 59 two boats, that they advanced but a mile a day, and on the 24th had only made seven miles. The halts were regulaied entirely by the condition of the men, who required lono.'r rest at some periods than at others. The thermometer ranged below zero, and the men slept at night in the boats, protected by their canvas coverings. Had it not been for the shelter which the hut at Anoatok afforded, the four sick men — Good- RELICS BROUGHT BACK BY THE FRANKLIN EXPEDITION. fellow, Wilson, Whipple, and Stephenson — they must have perished. At the time of their removal into it, they were so drawn up with the scurvy that they were wholly unable to move. Yet their delay in this hut was extremely gloomy ; for it lasted from the time that they were removed from the brig, until they were carried forward by the sledge to the boats, which had been dragged by their respective crews in advance 6o ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. ! : 111 of them. During this interval they were carefully fed and attended by Dr. Kane. Dr. Kane's visits to the brig from time to time, in order to obtain supplies of provisions, were full of interest to him. On the first of these he found the vessel already inhabited by an old raven, which had often been seen hovering around, and whom they had called Magog. The fire was lighted in the galley, the pork was melted, large batches of bread were baked, dried apples were stewed, and then the sledge was made ready to return with the load. Such was usually the routine of Dr. Kane's lonely visits to the brig. After the first of these visits, when h^ returned to the "wind-loved spot," Anoatok, with his sledge, he found that the sick who still remained there had e^-xhausted their provisions ; that their single lamp had gone out ; that the snow-drifts had forced their way in at the door, so that it could not be shut ; that the wind was blowing furiously through the open tenement; and that the thennometer ranged only thirteen degrees above zero. The invalids were disheartened and hungry. A fire was built with tarred rope ; a porridge was prepared for them out of meat biscuit and pea-soup ; the door was fastened up ; a dripping slab of fat pork was suspended over their lamp- wick; and then all turned into their sleeping bags, after a hearty though not very savory meal. So overcome were they all with exposure and weakness, that they slept until after all their watches had run down. Dr. Kane then hurried forward to the sledge party, who had by that time reached Ten Mile Ravine. They were struggling with the deep snows, were overwhelmed with fa- tigue, and were somewhat disheartened. Although their feet were much swollen, they had toiled that day for fourteen hours. Some were suffering from snow-blindness, and were scarcely able to work at the drag-ropes. In spite of all their toils and sufferings, morning and evening prayers were con- stantly read by the adventurers. Meanwhile the sledge party advanced slowly toward the south. On the 28th Dr. Kane paid his last visit to the brig. He was compelled to leave behind his collections in natural history, his library, and some of his instruments, such as his theodolite and chart-box, the useless daguerreotypes, and other companions and me- mentos of Arctic toil and suffering. Then he mounted his sledge ; gave a last look at the blackened hull and spars of SECOND GR7NNELL EXrEDITION. the Advance ; fiercely whipped up his dogs in a paroxysm of mournful gloom ; and sped away for the last time over the snowy waste which had been associated with so many recol- lections. Thus was left behind at last in its frozen bed the vessel which had been connected with two Arctic expeditions, one of which is the most remarkable on record ; and there, doubtless, she remains, an unseen monument of human en- terprise, benevolence, and endurance. From Anoatok Dr. Kane's next labor was to remove the provisions and men further on in their route. A friendly Es- quimau, named Metek, was sent forward to the next station, with two bags of b ead-dust, each weighing ninety pounds. The next station was Etah Bay. About midnight Dr. Kane approached that vicinity. The sun was low in the heavens, and the air around was marked by that peculiar stillness which accompanies the great solitudes of nature. While feeling the oppressive weight of that silence, his ears were suddenly greeted by unexpected sounds of mirth and laughter. He had approached an encampment of the wandering Esqui- maux, consisting of about thirty men, women, and children. The cause of their joy was the capture of innumerable birds, called Auks, which they were engaged in catching with nets. This was the spot which thesc birds mysteriously chose for the purpose of breeding from year to year ; and the Esqui- maux as regularly found their way thither in pursuit of them. The travellers continued their weary march through the snow, dragging their boats p ^ter them. Sometimes, when the weather moderated — for it ^vas summer — the sledges broke through. Six men on one occasion were thrown into the water, and the Hope was very nearly lost. Help came to them from the Esquimaux at Etah, who sent them the loan of their dogs, together with an additional supply of fresh pro- visions. The dogs were of infinite service in drawing one of the sledges, upon which the sick men were conveyed. At this period an accident deprived the expedition by death of one of its most useful members. While crossing a tide-hole, one of the runners of the Hope sledge broke through the ice. The energy and presence of mind of Christian Ohlsen alone saved her from being lost. By a prodigious effort he passed a capstan-bar under the sledge, and thus sustained its weight until it was dragged forward to firm ice. In doing this his footing gave way beneath him, and he thus was com- i;-.^ f I m. f'u] ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. pelled to strain himself. Tiie effort ruined him. Some in- ternal injury had been inflicted by the effort, and he died three days afterward. His body was sewed up in his own blankets, and carried in procession to the head of a little til^orge to the east of Pekiutlik, where a grave was excavated in the frozen earth. There his body was deposited with a few simple and appropriate ceremoi.ies. His name and age were inscribed by the commander on a strip of sheet lead ; and ere his grave v.ras filled by his comrades, the brief and touch- ing memorial was laid upon his manly breast. A small mound was then erected with rocks and stones over his lonely resting-place ; and there now sleep, in that cheerless and wintry tomb, the remains of Christian Ohlsen. By the 6th of June the party reached Littleton Island. From a lofty height here of some eight hundred feet, Dr. Kane obtained his first view of the open water. His position at that time was 78° 22' i" latitude, and 74° 10' longitude. So weary were the men of dragging the sledges over the snow and ice, that they wished to take the direct route to the water, upon which they were eager to embark wi-th the boats. But the dangers of the plan proposed overruled their wishes, and the inland route, though longer, was selected. The wished- for water which greeted the eyes of the weary travellers was Hartstcin Bay, and they welcomed it with emotions of rapture resembling those which, as Xenophon records, filled the minds and excited the enthusiasm of the ten thousand Greeks when, after their long and perilous march through Asia-Minor, and their escape from the myriads of Artaxerxes, they first beheld the distant waves of the sea whose billows laved the shores of their beloved Greece. On the 1 6th of June the party reached the water. Ft was at the northern curve of the North Baffin Bay. On the i8th the travellers were surrounded by all the Ksquimaux who had been assembled at Etah. They had come to bid the strangers farewell, v/hom they had served to the best of their ability at an earlier stage of their journey. They were indeed a mis- erable and forlorn race, though kindly and confiding in their dispositions. They received various presents and keepsakes from the travellers — such as knives, files, saws, and lumps of soap. They had been of great service in lending hand- sledges and dogs, in helping to carry baggage and the sick from one station to another, along their weary route ; and 111 SECOND GRINNKLL KXPEDITION, 63 they parted from the strangers — probably the last they were destined ever to behold in that repulsive clime — with feelings of regret which they did not conceal. Dr. Kane urged them to emigrate farther south, for there they could obtain more abundant food, and escape the perils of starvation which con- stantly surrounded them. On the evening of Sunday, June 17th, the party hauled their boats through the hummocks, reached the open sea, and OFF FOR THE OPEN SEA. launched the frail craft upon its waters. But Eolus seemed determined not to permit them yet to embark, for he let loose his fiercest winds, which began to dash a heavy ivind-lipper ai^ainst the ice-floe, and obliged the party to remove their boats brck with each new breakage of the ice. The goods which had been stacked upon the ice were conveyed farther inward to the distance of several hundred yards. The storm continued t rage, and to forbid them to venture on the treacheious element. At last Dr. Kane saw the nece^^^ity of 'mm iijii 'i. ' > ; 64 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. f ; ( I \ ■■■' permitting the worn-out men to repose, and in order to do so securely, the boats were removed a mile from the water's edge. The sea tore up the ice to the very base of the berg to which they had fled for refuge, and the angry deep seemed like a vast cauldron, boiling with intense fury, while the im- mense fragments of ice crashed and rolled together with a sound resembling thunder. At length the storm subsided, and the troubled sea became tranquil. The boats were again prepared for embarkation. On Tuesday, the 19th, Dr. Kane succeeded in getting the Faith afloat, and he was soon followed by the two other boats. Soon the wind freshened, and the mariners began their wel- come progress homeward ; but they had a long and perilous voyage before them of many hundred miles. At length they doubled Cape Alexander. They desired first to halt at Sutherland Island ; but the ice-belt which hugged its shores was too steep to permit them to land. They then steered for Hakluyt Island, but had not proceeded far before the red boat swamped. The crew were compelled to swim to the other boats, and the former was with difficulty keep afloat, and dragged in tow by her comrades. Dr. Kane then fastened his boats to an old floe, and thus sheltered, the men obtained their second halt and rest. When they had become some- what refreshed, they rowed for Hakluyt Island, at a point less repulsive and impracticable than the one attempted the day before. A spit to the southward gave them an opportunity to haul up the boats on the land-ice as the tide rose. From this the men dragged the boats to the rocks above and inland, and were thus secure. It snowed heavily during the ensuing night. A tent was prepared for the sick, and a few birds were luckily obtained to vary their stale diet of bread-dust and tallow. On the next morning, the 2 2d, the snow-storm still contin- ued to pelt them ; but they pressed onward toward North- umberland Island, and reached it. They rowed their boats into a small inlet of open water, which conducted them to the beach directly beneath a hanging glacier, which towered sub- limely into the heavens to the immense height of eleven hundred feet. The next day they crossed Murchison Channel, and at night encamped at the base of Cape Parry. The day had been laboriously spent in tracking over the ice, and in sailing i 'I )ntin- lorth- Iboats \o the sub- lleven id at had lUing 1* I I SECOND GRINNELL EXl'EDITIONf 65 through tortuous leads. The day following they reached Fitz Clarence Rock ; one of the most singular forms to be seen in that strange clime. It rises to an immense height from a vast field of ice, having the shape of an Egyptian pyramid surmounted by an obelisk. In more frequented waters it would be a valued landmark to the navigator. Still they continued to toil onward from day to day. Their progress was satisfactory, though their labor was exhausting. Dr. Kane sometimes continued sixteen hours in succession at the helm. But now their allowance of food began to grow scanty. It was reduced to six ounces of bread-dust per day, and a lump of tallow about the size of a walnut. An occa- sional cup of tea was their only consolation. From this stage in their journey Dalrymple Rock became perceptible in the distance. But the physical strength of the men began to give way beneath their labors and their insufficient diet. At this crisis a gale struck them from the northwest, and a floe, one end of which having grounded on a tongue of ice about a mile to the northward of them, began to swing round to- ward the boats, and threaten to enclose and crush them. Soon the destruction of the surrounding ice threatened their own. For hundreds of yards on every side around them the ice was crumbled, crushed, and piled in irregular and frag- mentary masses. The thunder of the confused ocean of frozen wrecks was overpowering. Suddenly the ice seemed to separate p.nd' form a channel ; and in that channel, so unexpectedly opened before them, the men rowed the boats with the aid of their boat hooks, and escaped a danger which a moment before seemed inevitable and ruinous. Soon they found themselves in a lead of land-water, wide enough to give them rowing rqi|n, and they hastened on to the land, which loomed ahead. ^Pleaching it, they eagerly sought a shelter. The Hope here stove her bottom, and lost part of her weather- boarding. The water broke over them, for the storm still continued. At length the tide rose high enough at three o'clock to enable them to scale the ice-cliff. They succeeded in pulling the boats into a deep and narrow gorge, which opened between the towering cliffs. The rocks seemed almost to close above their heads. An abrupt curve in the windings of this gorge placed a protecting rock behind them, which shielded them from the violence of the winds and waves. They had reached a haven of refuge which was 5 66 AKCIIC KXPLORATIONS. . '•*; mm tl i i a' T»st a cave ; where they found a flock of cider ducks on whu.i they feasted ; and where for three days liiey reposed from the dangers and labors of their voyage. This retreat they fitly called Weary Man's Rest. The fourth day of July having arrived, it was commemorated by the adventurers by a few dihited and moderate potations, such as their nearly exhausted whiskey flask permitted; and they then embarked and rowed industriously toward Wolsten- holme Island. During some succeeding days, they continued slowly to progress toward the south, through the various lanes of water which opened between the belt-ice and the floe. By this time the constant collisions between the boats and the floating ice had rendered them quite unseaworthy. The ice had strained their bottom timbers, and constant baling was necessary. Their fresh meat had all been consumed, and the men were now reduced again to short rations of bread-dust. On the I ith of July they approached ape Dudley Digges ; but their progress was suddenh stopped by an immense tongue of floe which extended out to sea for a prodigious dis- tance. They forced their way into a lead of skidge, and attempted thus to advance. They found this to be ini])ossi- ble ; and were glad to make tlieir escape from it. Dr. Kane was at a loss how to proceed. He mounted an iceberg to reconnoitre the surrounding prospect. It was gloomy and repulsive in the extreme. They were in advance of the season ; and he discovered that in those waters toward Cape York the floes had not yet broken up. They seemed to be surrounded in a ctd-de-sac, with exhausted strength and food, and no possibility of escaping until the summer had broken open for them a pathway of escape.^ Sailing along they passed the Crimsoi>,»Cliffs, so named by Sir John Ross. They continued thence to hug the shore., The weather now moderated ; and their voyage assumed more agreeable an'l genial features. The men frequently landed, climbed up th^ steep cliffs and obtained abundant quantities of auk?. Fires were kindled with the turf, and the feasts which ensued were relished with more than an ordinary appetite ; and that also the more truly, because the travellers well \new that their good fortune, and their propitious seas and weather, would not long continue. They were now in 78° 20' north latitude. t: SECOND (.ilUNNELl, KXI'l-DlTIuN. 07 On the 1st of August lliey came witliin siglitof the Devil's Thumb, and were no longt r wanderers in unknown regions; but were within the hmits of the district frecjuented by tiie wiialers. Soon they reached the Duck Islands. At length they passed Cape Shacki- on, and then steered for the shore of Greenland. During two days longer they continued to follow the coast, VIEW OF SANDERSON'S HOPE, NEAR UPERNAVTK, BAFFIN BAY. sailino- southward. At the end of this time they discerned the single mast of a small shallop, and heard words of mingled English and Danish from the sailors on board of her. They soon discerned that it was the Upcrnavik oil-boat on its way to Kingatok to obtain blubber. 'I^he annual ship had arrived from Copenhagen at Proven ; and this was one of the boats which supplied her with a cargo of oil. From the i\ :i"i] C ■ f!.| H' 1;, i ■ f f 1*1 ii 68 ARCTIC KXPLORATIONS. i ! , ,:. sailors on board the shallop, Dr. Kane first received informa- tion of the jT^reat events which, during his absence, had ai,ntated the world to which he had been so lon^^ a stranj^er ; how England and France had combined with the Turk to humble the haughty pride of the imperial Romanoff; and how vast armies were then engaged in mortal strife on tlu' once quiet and fertile plains of the Crimea. For the first time he learned the importance which Sebastopol had acquired in the history and fate of the world, surrounded as it then was with a battling host of a hundred thousand men. They ron'-id on. Soon Kasarsoak, the snow-capped sum- mit of Sanderson's Hope, appeared to them, towering above the mists ; and as they approached the welcome harbor of Upernavik, from which they had issued several years before ii he gallant vessel they had now left behind them, they felt as oiily such men under such circumstances could feel. Dur- ing eighty-four days they had lived in the open air, tossing in frail boats on the bosom of the angry, half-frozen deep. They were delivered from a thousand deaths, and arrived at last safely at Upernavik, where they were received with hospitality. Dr. Kane resolved to embark his party in the Danish vessel the Mariane, which sailed on the 6th of September for the Shetland Islands. They took with them their little boat the Faith, which had accompanied them through so many adventures. They only retained their clothes and documents, of all they had once possessed on board the Advance. On the nth they arrived at Godhaven, where they found their former friend, Mr. Olrik, the Danish Inspector of North Greenland. Dr. Kane and his associates returned to New York in the squadron of Captain Hartstene, consisting of the United States bark Release and the United States steam-brig Arctic, which had sailed from New York in June, 1855, ^" search of him and his party. They arrived at New York on the nth of October, 1855. The results of his expedition- comprise the survey and de- lineation of the north coast of Greenland to its termination by a great glacier ; the survey of this glacier and its extension northward into the new land named Washington ; the dis- covery and delineation of a large tract of land, forming the extension northward of the American continent, and a survey of the American continent. •» CHAPTER V. I AMERICAN ARCTIC EXPEDITION. Kxpcilition of tlie United States Ship Vincennes under Commander John Rodgers-^I'etro- paulovski — Ueliring Strait — Wranj^el! Land. While Lieutenant Hartstene was ncarin.j^ the port of New York with tlie rescued party of Dr. Kane on board the Re- lease, the Vincennes, under Commander John Rodgers, was returning' from a cruise in the Arctic Seas on the western side of the continent. The ship came into San Francisco October 15th, 1855, two days after the arrival of Kane at the Brooklyn navy-yard. The explorations and surveys made on this cruise were in the prosecution of the original plans of the United States Survey- ing and Exploring Expedition which had left the United States, under Commander Cadwalader Ringgold, in the year 1853. The expedition consisted of tiie sloop-of-war Vincennes, the screw steamer John Hancock, the brig Porpoise, the schooner J. Fenimore Cooper, and the store-ship J. P. Ken- nedy. Lieutenant John Rodgers was detached to command the Hancock. * The squadron sailed from Norfolk June nth, 1853. The primary object of the expedition was the promotion of the great interests of commerce and navigation ; special attention being also directed to the increasing importance of the whale fisheries in the neiohborhood of Behrincf Strait. The thor- ough examination of that great outlet was expected, as well as that of the adjacent coasts of North America and Asia, in- cluding the Seas of Behring and Anadir, and the Aleutian archipelago, with the east coast of Kamtschatka. The com- mander was authorized to go as far north as he should think proper, and devote as much time to the complete performance of any part of the work as should be necessary ; but was in- structed also to take all occasions not incompatible with these high objects, for the extension of the boundaries of scientific research. In the following year a reorganization of the ex- (69) li ■!11i 70 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. iS ' pedition became necessary, the failing liealtii of Commander Ringgold requiring his return to the United States; the com- mand devolved upon Lieutenant John Rodgers, the next in rank. The Vincennes and Porpoise sailed from Hong-Kong on the 1 2th of September for a survey of the Bonin Isles. Ladrone, Loo-choo, and the islands west and south of Japan, and returned to Hong-Kong in February, 1855, with the ex- ception of th 3 brig Porpoise, which parted company from the Vincennes September 21st, 1854, in mid-channel between Formosa and China to the northward and westward of the Pescadores. The brig, with every soul on board, perished. She was to have met the Vincennes at the Bonin Isles, and Commander Rodgers waited for her there beyond the ap pointed time. As there were grounds for apprehension of her safety, since both the Vincennes and the Porpoise had struggled together with the storm of the date named. Com- mander Rodgers went in search of her, visiting the Loo-choo and other islands and places where it was thought possible she might have been driven by the gale ; and afterward th(^ Hancock and Cooper thoroughly explored the island of Formosa, but without the slightest intelligence of the ill-fated brig. The following brief notices about the expedition of the Vincennes are derived from the log of die ship and letters of Commander Rodofers : July 8th, 1855. — The Vincennes arrived at Avatcha Bay, Siberia, in which lies the port of Petropaulovski. The village presented a singular appearance, its houses, about one hun> dred in number, being built of logs hewn square, many of them having red roofs ; the better class covered with sheet- iron, the red lead being probably designed as a protection from rust. The villacre is situated at the head of a land- locked basin, formed by a high ridge of land curving out and rounding from the main, and then running parallel to it. A low sand-spit forms a breakwater across the entrance. On the shoulder of the spit, and on the promontory of the ridge, were seen the ruins of battt^ries from which the euns had been removed. A boat came off with a Mr. Case, an American resident, who reported the town deserted, and that the public property had been destroyed, and that of private persons wantonly in- AMERICAN AFCTIC EXrEDITION. 71 t' 'I jured by the French. On a visit by the officers of the Vincennes, the burned houses presented a mournful appear- ance, and the deserted mansion of the governor scarcely less of discomfort. This dwelling w?,s of logs caulked with oakum, and lined with painted canvas ; its heating had been from Russian stoves, which, as massive squares of brick-work, maintained a constant temperature. A stream of clear water, supplied from the melting snow of the hills, formed a small cascade in the garden. In the stieets many dogs were wander- ing without masters, to die of starvation. In the calm of the evening the scenery was very fine, presenting from one point the wide waters of the bay, the close, calm harbor, the distant and majestic mountains, and the light-hued vegetation, waving with every zephyr. X^iolets and heartsease were gathered for home letters. Durinof the absence of the officers the seine had been hauled, bringing up one hundred and forty salmon with trout ; a king-salmon weighed sixty pounds ; the lightest, ten pounds. On the 9th an American ship with a cargo consigned to Petropaulovski arrived from New York via Valparaiso. On the 13th the commander of the Vincennes sent as a present to the governor of Siberia a silver-mounted Sharpe rille with ammunition ; the Vincennes ran out to sea, taking as an interpreter an old Cossack sixty-seven years of age. On July 1 6th the Vincennes encountered thick weather, but without rain ; at noon, when it lightened up, Behring Island was seen bearing southeast. I'Vom this date up to the close of the month, adverse easterly winds prevailed, with the exceptional calms accompanied by the usual fogs. On August 1st Behring Straits were entered after passing between St. Lawrence Island and Cape Tchaplin in a thick fog without seeing land. The ship hauled in for Semiavine Straits on the Asiatic side, where the commander had deter- mined to leave a party under Lieutenant Brooke to make astronomical and other observations. In the afternoon, land was suddenly seen close aboard, without the position of the ship being well known, as they had no observations. From the deck some mound-like structvires, the huts of the Tchukt- chis, were seen, with what appeared the framing of others — eight or ten whale-ribs set upon end close together. A large number of the men, with their women and children, crowded around the ship in their baidars, skin-boats ; they were all ifil ■;! 72 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. dressed in furs, generally with coats of deer-skin, and panta- loons of seal-skin, over which they wore looser frocks made of the intestines of whales or other sea animals. They were tall and had large heads ; the llatness of their faces, relieved only by prominent cheekbones, making them appear sin- gularly heavy. Their hair was shorn, except a broad ridge over the forehead. The women were not ugly, some of them quiie pretty, particularly when they smiled ; and when WALRUS or IHK ll KFIELDS. asking for anything, they put on so winning an air and smiled so sweetly. The party made ready exchanges of -walrus teeth, lances and harpoons made of the ivory of the moose, for needles, thread, siik and like articles ; tobacco being chiefly desired. All could eicher smoke or chew, and for half a plug of the weed they willingly gave weapons which must have cost them weeks of patient labor. They inquired for grog of which, however, very litde was given to them. AMERICAN ARCTIC EXrKDrnON. 71 The Viiiccnnes entered the Arctic Sea Aucrust nth. It Vijda utterly impossible to expect to wint(;r in a hiL,^h latitude — the ship had but four months' provisions and luel — and the commander was desirous to ri;turn to the work of the sur- veys at the earliest date consistent with the visitint^ to the land in about latitude 72° N., longitude 1 75° W. ; with examin- iiii^ Herald Island, seen by the same ship, but not explored ; aiid the endeavor to reach Wrangell Land. On August nth the ship encountered a stream of drift- timber, some of the trees of which were so large and nu- merous that she had fre(|uently to alter her course of seven knots to avoid striking them. She ran over the tail of Herald Shoal, which had less than eighteen fathoms water, and on the 13th passed the island, which appeared dimly betwc:en the cloutls as two small ones. The weather became foggy, and the ship stood for the north until she came to anchor in forty- two fatlioms, in latitude 72° 5' N., longitude i 74° 87' W. In a few hours the fog lifted, and a sudden change, peculiar to the northern regions, Hashed across the scene ; it was so clear that the horizon appeared without limit. No land or apptjar- ance of land could be seen from the royal yards. The water, as far as the eye could reach, was entirely free from ice, but the weather became again foggy. Commander Rodgers, having accomplished what he had proposed, and being as- sured that a longer exposure of his officers and crew could result in injury only, returned toward Herald Island. On the 24th of September the passage through the Aleutian chain was made by night through the Straits of Amoukta. This passage was found to be excellent, " the widest and probably the best through these seas." Nothing of special interest occurring on her return, October 13th, the Vincennes anchored in the harbor of San Francisco. The Hancock and the Fen- imore Cooper arrived in port the day following. . I! U 1 i 11 I i CHAPTER VI. EXPLORATIONS OF DR. ISAAC I. HAYES. He visits Melville Bay — Winters at Port Foulke — Arctic Night described — Highest Poi«t reached. '■\': I- :i The next American Arctic exploration on the northeastern coast was effected by Dr. Hayes, surgeon of the second Grinnell expedition. The proposed route was again to be by way of Smith's Sound, and his objects were to complete "the survey of the north coasts of Greenland and Grinnell Land, and to make further explorations towards the Pole, in order to verify the existence of the reported open Polar Sea. On the former voyage he had traced Grinnell Land beyond the eightieth par- allel, and he now hoped to push a vessel into the ice-belt there, and thence transport a boat over it into the open water of the great basin which he hoped to find beyond. The tore-and-aft-schooner United States sailed from Bokin on July 7th, i860, and crossed the Arctic circle on the 30th of July. Dr. Hayes visited Proven and Upernavik, where the ship's company was increased by the addition of six per- sons. On the 23d day of August Melville Bay was entered in a thick snow-storm. The expedition wintered at Port Foulke. Dr. Hayes thus describes in his journal on the i6th day of January, 1861, an Arctic night: " Our eyes now turn wistfully to the south, eagerly watching for the tip of Aurora's chariot, as the fair goddess of the morning rises from the sea to drop a ray of gladness from her rosy fingers into this long-neglected world. It is almost a month since we passed the darkest day of winter, and it will be a long time yet before we have light ; but it is time for us now to have at noontime a faint tiush upon the honzon. A faint twilight flush mounting the southern sky to-d:iy ai u\ meridian hour, though barely perceptible, was a cheering sight to all. We Teel that the veil of night is lifting, that th*-: l'ouc! (74) ■"mJ EXI'LORAIIONS OK DR. ISAAC I. HAYES. 75 is passing- away, that the load of darkness is being light- ened. ... " The p.,.>ple have exhausted their means of amusement ; we long for the day and for work. Talk as yoi! will of pluck and of manly amusement, this Arctic night is a severe ordeal. It DR. ISAAC 1. IIAYKS. is a severe trial to the moral and the intellectual faculties. The cheering inlluences of the rising sun, which invite to labor; the soothing inlluences of the evenn>g tvilight, which invite to repose ; the change from day to nig-n nnd from night to day, which lightens* the l)urden to the weary mind and the If . p firtlJ 11 76 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. aching- body, is withdrawn ; and, in the constant lo, ing for light, the mind and body, weary witii the cliangeless j..')gress of the time, fail to find repose where all is rest. The gran- deur of nature ceases to give delight to the dull sympathies ; the heart longs for new. associations, new objects, and new companionships ; the dark and dreary solitude oppresses the understanding; the desolation which reigns everywhere haunts the imagination ; the silence — dark, dreary, and pro- found — becomes a terror. I have gone out into the Arctic night, and viewed nature in her varied aspects. I have re- joiced with her in her strength, and communed with her in repose. I have walked abroad in the darkness, when the winds were roarincr through the hills and crashing over the plains. I have wandered far out upon the frozen sea. and listened to the voice of the icebergs, bewailing their imprison- ment; along the glacier, where forms and falls the avalanche; up on the hill-top, where the drifting snow, coursing its way over the rocks, sang its plaintive song; and again I have wan- dered away to the distant valley, where all these sounds were hushed, and the air was still and solemn as the tomb. "And here it is that the true spirit of the Arctic night is revealed, where its wonders are unloosed, to sport and play with the mind's vain imaginings. The heavens above and the earth beneath reveal only an endless and fathomless quiet ; there is nowhere evidence of life or motion ; I stand alone amidst the mighty hills ; their tall crests climb upward, and are lost in the gray vault of the skies ; their dark clifts, standing against their slopes of white, are the steps of a vast amphitheatre. The mind, finding no rest on their bald sum- mits, wanders into space: the moon, weary with long vigil, sinks to her repose ; the Pleiades no longer breathe their sweet influences; Cassiopeia and Andromeda and Orion, and all the infinite host of the unnumbered constellations, fail to infuse one spark of joy into this dead atmosphere; they have lost all their tenderness, and are cold ancl pulseless. The eye leaves them and returns to earth, and the trembling ear awaits something that will break the oppressive sullness. But no footfall of living- thin^- reaches it, no wild beast howls through the solitude. There is no cry of bird to enliven the scene ; no tree among whose branches the winds can sigh and moan. The pulsations of mj' own heart are alone heard in the gTc;at void ; and, as the blood courses through the :k EXPLORATIONS Or DR. ISAAC I. HAYES. 71 sensitive organization of the ear, I am oppressed as with dis- cordant sounds. Silence has ceased to be negative ; it has become endowed with positive attributes. I seem to hear and see and feel it. It stands forth as a frightful spectre, fill- in<^the mind with the overpowering consciousness of universal (lej^th — proclaiming the end of all things and heralding the everlasting future. Its presence is unendurable. I spring from the rock upon which I have been seated ; I plant my feet heavily in the snow, to banish its awful presence, and the sound rolls through the night and drives away the phantom. " I have seen no expression on the face of nature so filled with terror as the silence of the Arctic night." In the early spring the Esquimaux replenished the dog-teams to the number of twenty. Several, however, died as before. With the rest a provision depot for the summer use was soon estabhshed, and on the 4th of April, 1861, Hayes, with twelve officers and men, started out on his principal and long jour- ney to the North. His equipment consisted of a metallic life-boat mounted on runners, with provisions for seven per- sons for five months, and for six persons and fourteen dogs for six weeks. He was, however, again compelled to keep to the eastern shore, and, consequently, encountered the same experience of ice-hummocks with which Kane had met ; and finally finding it impossible to transport the boat brought out in the fond anticipation of pushing it out on the Polar waters, he sent it back with the main party, while he continued the journey with two companions only. But with these he reached the west coast by nearly the same track fol- lowed by him in 1854, corrected some errors of the chart made at that time, entered Kennedy Channel, and on the 1 6th of the month attained a point forty miles farther north than Kane's highest on the opposite shore. Returning in the same track he reached his vessel after an absence of fifty-nine days, and a journey of comings and goings of fourteen hun- dred miles. To the highest point reached he gave the name of Cape Lieber. To the north lay Lady Franklin Bay. In the far distance, north of Cape Beechey, a headland was seen to which he gave the name of Cape Union. The schoonei, having been prepared for sea, was broken out of the ice on the loth of July, and sailed from her winter harbor on the 14th. After much difficulty and two trials she M w t If I, .11; ifi 78 ARCTIC I'XI'I.ORATIONS. I I ■i ■ i . i' ! reached tlie west coast ten miles below Cape Isabella. Con- tinuing iiis voyage southward Dr. Mayes completed the survey of the eastern coast of Nortli Baffin Hay, from Cape Alexander to Granville IJay ; a survey madf* independently THi: TENl' OF DR. I. I. HAYES. of the charts of his predecessors. The shore-line surveyed on the eastern side, a portion of which is new discovery, equalled about six hundred miles, and on the western side, between Clarence Head on the south and Cape Union on the north, about thirteen hundred miles. ' KXPLOKATFONS OF ISAAC I. HAYES. i J He entered M(;lvillc Bay, and after borinij^ throuo^h the "pack" lor one hundred and fifty miles enten^d the Soulhern Water, and reached Upernavik on the 14th of Au<^ust, and Uisco Island September ist. The voyau^c from (iodhaven SNOW VILLAGE— Kil-OO. southward was very stormy. Off Halifax the ship received such injury as required her to put into port for repairs. Leaving this harbor, October 19th, Dr. Hayes arrived in Boston on the 23d, after an absence of fifteen months and thirteen days. % ■II i m ' ^■i 'I i 'I 1 J' CHAPTER VII. CHARLES FRANCIS HALL. The Explorations of C. F. Hall — Limited Resources — Cicnerous aid by Messrs. Grinnell, Williams and Haven — Buries his Native Companion Kud-la-go — llolsteinborg — Destruc- tion of the Rescue and the Expedition Boat — Inland Excursions — Frobisher Strait or Bay — Hall's Second Arcuc Expedition — Sailing of the Monticello — Winter-Quarters at Fort H<^^pe — King William's Land. Few men have enrered upon a great undertaking with less encouragement and means than did Charles Francis Hall, the son of a blacksmith, an American of humble birth, without influential friends or money of his own, to fit out an expedi- tion to the Polar Seas. He left the port of New London, Conn., within a few weeks of the sailing of Dr. Hayes, with- out companions for his explorations. The prevailing sympathy for the fate of Franklin had kindled in Mr. Hall an enthusiasm for the search and for Arctic exploration which failed him only with his life. Through the nine years from the issue of the instructions to Lieutenant DeHaven to the return of the British yacht Fox, under Mc- Clintock, he had steadily devoted every spare hour to the study of what might be done for the rescue. In February, i860, he issued a circular in the nature of an appeal to his fellow-citizens for aid in his proposed undertaking, which was generously answered by Mr. Grinnell, of New York, and the firm of Williams and Haven, of New London ; the latter offering to convey the proposed expedition and its outfit free of charge to Northumberland Inlet, and whenever desired to give the same free passage home in any of its ships. On the 29th day of May, i860, Hall left New London in the ship George Henry. His only companion was the Esqui- mau Kud-la-go, whom Captain Budington of the George Henry had brought to the United States on his voyage in the preceding autumn. His outfit consisted of one boat, one sledge, some twelve hundred pounds of pemmican and meat- biscuit, a small amount of ammunition, and a few nautical (80) A WINTER I CIIART,I';s KRANCIS II.M,I,. 8i instruments and therniomclcrs. The. shij) did not arrive at Holstcinbori; bcfori; die 7th of July. Hall tnct widi his first and serious loss in the dcadi of Kudda-go before cnterinir the iiarbor. Apparently in good health when leaving New Lon- don, the native had contracted a severe disease whilst passing through the fogs on the Newfoundland banks, and rapidly failed in health. His last words were, Tcik-ko-scko? Teik-ko- scko? (Do you see ice? Do you see ice?) This he inces- santly asked, thinking he might be near his home. He died about three hundr'^d miles from it, and was buried in the sea. On July 30 the George Henry was within three miles of " Sanderson's Tower," on the west side of the entrance to A WINTER EXPERIENCE IN THE ARCTIC REGION-CAPTAIN PHIPPS' SHIPS. Northumberland Inlet ; August 8'.h the barque reached her anchorage at Ookoolear, the Esquimau name for what has since been known as Cornelius Grinnell Bay. Before entering the bay, a runaway boat's crew from the whaler Ansell Gibbs, of New Bedford, was hailed on their southward course home. They stated that on account of bad treatment they had deserted from the ship at Kingaite in Northumberland Sound, and had run the distance from that place, two hundred and fifty miles, in less than three days. Captain Budington relieved their extreme hunger, and in pity for the necessities of the deserters furnished some supplies for their perilous voyage, which, according to information re- 6 if ■j/.ii L«.i IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1^128 |2.5 kuu III 1.8 1.25 1.4 1.6 6" ► Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) 872-4503 \ ^\^^ « l\ 41^ 82 ARCTIC EXI'LORATIONS. l!l Mli III! ceived two years afterward, they succeeded in effecting to the Labrador coast. Tlie first impression made by the natives around the bay was of a favorable character, especially in reference to their good nature. In noting his impressions Hall quotes from the reviewer of an Arctic book a reference to the Esquimau race, as being " sin((uiar composite beings" — a link between Saxons and seals — Iiybrids putting the seals' bodies into their own, and then encasing their skins in the seals, thus walking to and fro, a compound formation. A transverse section would discover them to be stratified like a roly-poly pudding, only instead of jam and paste, if their layers were noted on a perpendicular scale, they would range after this fashion : first of all, seal, then biped-seal in the centre with biped, then seal again at the bottom. Yet, singularly enough, these sav- ages are cheerful, and really seem to have great capacity for enjoyment. Though in the coldest and most uncomfortable dens of the earth, they are ever on thi; grin, whatever befalls them. When they see a white man and his knick-knacks, they grin. They grin when thtjy rub their noses with snow, when they blow their fingers, when they lubricate their hides inside and out with the fat of the seal. The good-natured- ness referred to here was indorsed by Hall from the outset of his acquaintance with the natives ; their other good points as well as defects were, as would be expected, impressed upon him with differing experiences and judgments throughout his years of sojourn. Quite a number of the people frequented the barque ; among them the wife of Kud-la-go, who had heard on shore of her husband's death, and whose tears flowed fast when she saw the treasures which the deceased had gathered in the States for her and his little child. On die 1 6th the two ships sailed for Nu-gum-mi-uke, their intended winter-quarters. Before sailing two other whalers, the Black Eagle and the Georgianna, had come in from another whaling ground. The harbor entered by the George Henry was not easy of access, but safe ; Hall gave it the new name of Cyrus W. Field Bay, which it retains. On the 2 1 St the Rescue was sent by the captain to examine the availability for a fishing-depot of an inlet on the other side of the bay, and Hall accompanied it, making his first visit to the scene of the landings of the voyagers under old Sir Martin Frobisher, three centuries before. Here he made iii CHARLES FRANCIS HALL. 83 their .1, amine other ; first ■er old made discoveries of value, and here he lost his expedition boat, the only means on which he could rely for the prosecution of his westward journey ings. The gale which brought these disasters was a severe one. Three vessels, tiie Barque, the Rescue, and the whaler Georgianna were anchored near each other in the bay Septem- ber 27th, when the storm began ; it increased by 1 1 v. m. to a iiurricane. The Rescue, after dragging for some hours, dashed upon the breakers, a total wreck; the Georgianna struck heavily on the lee shore. Hall's boat was driven high upon the rocks, nothing being A VISrr TO THE ESQUIMAUX. afterward found of her except her stern-post ; but before the howl of the tempest ended, he was asking of Captain Bud- ington the loan of a whale-boat to replace his loss : he was unable to secure one. With a party of Esquimaux he visited Captain Parker, of the True Love, an old whaler of forty-five years' Arctic expe- rience, and, explaining to him his plans and the loss of his ex- pedition boat, received the promise of one additional to the whale-boat which he hoped to get from the George Henry for his westward voyage. The party were piloted through a passage from which no opening to the ship could be seen by the woman Nik-u-jar, who, knowing every channel and inlet 84 ARCTIC EXl'LOKATIONS. \ ^ within two hundred miles of the anchorage, and seated on the logi^^erhead of the boat, with her pretty infant in her hood at the hack of her neck, steered directly to the spot. Unfortu- nately the True Love, a few days afterward, being driven from her anchorage by a gale, went off to sea, and Hall was thus disappointed both in the loan of the boat, and even in the opportunity of sending letters home. His original plans were finally arrested, and his attention was given during the stay of the Barque only to the language and habits of the people, to observations of natural phe- nomena, and to the discoveries of the Frobisher remains, and the location of the old-attempted settlements under that ex- plorer. Within the month following the loss of the boat, the native, Ebierbing (afterward called Joe), with his wife, Too-koo-litoo (Hannah), came to the cabin of the whaler. Joe had recendy piloted to the bay the True Love and the Lady Celia, through a chaimel more than one hundred and twenty miles long, be- hind a line of islands facing the sea. Too-koo-litoo at once impressed Hall with an expectation of valuable assistance from her, as she as well as her husband appeared to be intel- ligent, and spoke English quite fluently. They had acquired this from a residence of twenty months in England. Hannah promptly set herself to learning to read under Hall's teachinjr. November 19th, the ice from the head of the bay began to bear down upon the ship, and by the 6th of the month fol- lowing she was secured in winter-quarters. Mr. Hall, havinjr now acquired some knowledge of the native language, and having the company of the two natives just named, with a third, Koodloo, a relative of a woman whom he had befriended when dying, he thought himself ready for the discomforts of an Arctic journey. His sledge was loaded for a team of ten dogs, with a fair outfit of clothing, provisions, and sleeping comforts; his telescope, sextant, thermometer, and marine glass ; a rifle, with ammunition ; a Bowditch nautical alma- nac, and other books. Too-koo-litoo at first led the way, tracking for the dogs, which Ebierbing managed well ; but, on nearing the frozen waters of the ocean, where it was neces- sary to lower the sledge to the ice, the dogs were detached, while the woman, whip in hand, held on by the traces, which were from twenty to thirty feet long. The difficulty of the outgoing tide being overcome, the party, under the same CHARLES FRANCIS HALL. 85 leader, again made some six miles over the ice, and finding crood material for building a snow-house, encamped. The fitting up of the igloo — always the work of the igloo wif(^ — was done by first placing the stone lamp in its proper position, trimming it, and setting over it a kettle of snow ; then placing boards upon the snow-platforms for beds, and spreading over tliem the canvas, containing some pieces of a dry hrub, gath- ered for this purpose, and on this the hik-too, or reindeer-skins ; over the fire-lamp the wet clothing was hung, to be turned during the night by the wife. The journey was resumed in the morning. The course was due north, but owing to the innumerable hummocks in the ice it was not direct, and the party only made five "miles during the day. It was expected that the journey would be made in one day, but the obstacles were so great that the second night found them far away from their destination. To add to the complications a storm came up, and they had just secured shelter when it burst upon them in all its fury, in their ice aboae on the frozen sea. It continued all night long, and on the third morning of their journey they found it impossible to proceed, in the afternoon it was discovered that the ice was breaking, and the water made its appearance not more than ten rods from them. They became seriously alarmed, and consulted as to whether they should attempt to reach tlie land, which was three miles distant, or remain in their quarters and take the chance of being carried out to sea. They decided upon the . latter course, and eagerly awaited the coming cf another day. The gale abated about 10 p. M., and in the morning the weather was favorable. Pro- ceeding on their way, they had every difficulty to contend with. The ice had given away in every direction. The snow was very deep and treacherous, and it v/as with great diffi- culty that the sledge could be moved so as to guard it against falling into some snow-covered ice-crack. The dogs also were in a starving condition. Each member of the party took the lead by turns, to guard against the dangers which beset them, and to find a track through the hummocks which met them on all sides. By 2 r. m. the entire party were in such an exhausted condition that they were compelled to halt and partake of their now very slender stock of provisions. After this they proceeded with renewed vigor, reaching the shore ice in safety, and in a short time they were alongside of M i 86 Akirnc Kxi'L( )Ka tk )Ns. Ufrarng's igloo (ice hut), built on the southwt^st side of RojTcrs' Island, overlooking Cornelius Grinnell Bay. ()n the following day, January 15th, the explorations com- menced. Rabbit tracks were discovered on the hills, and in the distance were seen the prominent headlands noticed on the first arrival of the ship. In the meantime the provisions gave out, and the party found themselves without food or light, with the thermometer 25° below zero. The natives met with no success in hunting or seal-fishing, but brought to the hut with them some black skin and kuang, which they had obtaintid from a cache made the previous fall by the natives, when the ship was in the bay. At noon next day a heavy snowstorm set in, which continued nearly four days, confining the party to the hut, and compelling them to live on raw frozen black skin, kuang and seal. On Sunday, the 20th, they v^ere in a sad state from actu:il want of food. The weather continued so forbiddintj that noth- ing could be obtained by hunting. At 8 o'clock in the morn- ing, Mr. Hall and Koodloo started to return to the ship with a sledge, and twelve nearly starved dogs. A speedy trip was anticipated, but the difficulties encountered were so great that Ebierbing followed them on snow shoes, and taking his place sent Mr. Hall back to the huts to await their return. The Kupply of food was exhausted without any apparent prospect of obtaining a supply. Christmas eve found the party with nothing left but a piece of black skin, one and a quarter inch wide, two inches long, and three-quarters of an inch thick. During the night one of the natives came to the hut with some choice morsels cut from a seal which he had just caught, but he had no sooner entered than a starving dog, which had been allowed to sleep in the hut over night, sprang at the meat and ate a fair share of it. Before the party recovered from their surprise, the remaining hungry dogs made a rush from the outside and devoured the remainder. The next morning Ebierbing arrived from the ship with supplies, and a. seal weighing at least two hundred pounds, thereby raising the siege of starvation by supplying the wants of all. A letter from one of the officers of the ship stated that the ex- ploring party had been given up for lost in the great storm which they encountered on their journey. In speaking of the Innuit people, Mr. Hall says they are noted chiefly for their thoughtlessness and improvicience. CHAKLKS KUANCIS IIAl.I, 9f When tlicy have an abundant supply of food they devour it all as fast as they can without coiisiderincr that on the Jay follovvihg they may he in absolute want, and no course of reasoning can induce them to change in this respect. February i6th Mr. Hall once more started on an exploring expedition, arriving the same afternoon at Clark's Harbor, and proceeding at once to Allen's Island, where he remained two days at Ugarng's i^/oo, curiously watching the various START OF A SLEDGE EXPEDITION. efforts made to sustain and enjoy life by the singular people of the north. He spent forty-two nights in an igloo, living with the natives most of the time on their food according to their own customs, and said he had no regrets in looking back upon his experience, but on the contrary enjoyed his life so spent as well as he did under the most favorable cir- cumstances. On the 2 1 St he bade adieu to his Innuit friends and started on his return to the ship, accompanied by Ebier- bing, Ugarng and Kunniu, takini^^ Avith them the sledge and I ». m 88 ARCllC EXl'U)li7c (skin-tent), and soon aftcM'ward a nntive came toward :lie boat, 14 un in hand, A sliarp pull, and a leap from the l)ow, and Hall had made his first new friend in Oue/a, a native. The natives advised Hall that he could noi reach Repulse Hay at that late season of thi; year; that he would not find any Innuits th(!re, as tlujy always spent the winter elsewhenr t» kill the seal and walrus ; and that if he could «j;^et there he would be too late to kill any Tuk-too. They would go them- selves to the bay next season, and then to Neit-chi-lle, and it lie would spend the winter at Noo-wook, they would give him all the Tuk-too, walrus, seal anil bear-meat needed, rein- deer furs and assistance. He decided of necessity to stay with them. The 15 th of September was a day of gale. The Welcome was lashed into fury by the north wind, which drove (at inland everything like t^ame. On the going down of the sea Hall and Rudolph, with Ar-too-a and Joe, went out in swift pursuit of an ook-irook which had been seen drifting down, seem- ingly aslee]> ; but the cautious seal waked at tiie sound of the oars and disappeared. With the rapid chanLje of the season the ni 'hts besfan to be cold, ice was forming on the fresh-water lakes, and there were signs of an appioacliing snow-storm. A sheltered place for the tupiks becam<; a necessity. On the 18th Hall's jour- nal says: "It has been moving-day with us, and an interest- ing picture might have been seen — the Innuits and the two Kod-lu-nas, with packs on our backs, tVamping along towards our destined new home. Old Mother Ook-bar-loo had for her pack a monstrous roll of reindeer-skins, which was topped with kettles anil pans and various little instrument:i used by Innuits in their domestic affairs, while in her hand she carried spears and poles and other things that need not be mentioned here. Ar-too-a had for his pack his tent and pole, his gun and et ceteras in his hand. His wife had a hui^fe roll of rein- deer-skins and other things, much of the character of Ook- bar-loo's. The dogs had saddle-bags, and topping them were pannikins and such varied things as are always to be found in Innuit use. Ebierbing had for his pack our tent and some five or six tent-poles, while in his hands he carried his gun. Charley Rudolph had a large roll of reindeer-skins, carrying vard \ the la, a find re Ik; hem- ind it give rein- ) stay Icome inland a Hall mrsuit seem- of the IS gun. irrying SHOOTING SEALS. (5«) ' \.<.' 4 ! ;'^' \ , ' .fn'i^ t ' ! ' '■ ■ f§: ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS also numerous tcnt-pnlcs. Too-koo-litoo had deerskins, and in her hands various things. I carried on my shoulder two rilles and one }^un, each in covers ; under one arm my com pass tripod, and in one hand my HttU; basket, which held m\ pet Ward chronometer, and in the other my trunk of instru- ments." The Innuits then brought out from their deposits the rein deer-skins cached in the summer. The weight of these, borne by the women, was as much as one hundred pounds to each. At their distribution the women were allowed to choose the best. Tlie ground was now covered with snow, the lakes bore a man's weight, and the heavy weatht;r on the coast drove the game inland. Flocks of tin; J^lanntj^an ( snow-partridges ) were found after each snowfall. In midwinter, at a dis- tance of ten feet, they are scarcely distinguishable from th( snow. By the help of Ou-e-la, Armou and Joe, Hall established himself in his fu'st winter-quarters. He says of his igloo, of ten feet only in diameter, that his house was a building with- out a corner and without props or braces ; the wall, roof and door a unity, yet so strong as to defy the power of the fiercest Arctic gales. Two months afterwards he wrote . " I exchanged tent for snow-house, ami have been all the time as comfortabl* as I ever have been in my life. You would be quite interested in taking a walk through my winter-quarters; one main ioloo for myself and Esquimaux friends, and three others, all joined to the main, for storehouses. A low, crook(;d passage-way of fifty feet in length leads into our dwelHng." In this igloo Mr. Hall spent the greater part of the winter. The next summer he explored the North Pole River, near the Fort Hope of Dr. Rae. This was to be his winter-quar- ters, in which he was to prepare for his sledge journey next season to the west. His two close companions, Joe and Too- koo-litoo (Hannah), remained in his igloo. Excepting occasionally a few salmon or perhaps a dozen partridges, no provision was available during the severe winter months but the deer-meat. To visit the deposits was then a matter of frequency, and often a work of severe expo- sure and labor ; nor, because of the scarcity of fuel, was it often practicable to have much cooking done. A very large number of deer had been deposited ; in Sep- all fllAkl.KS KKANCIS MALI,. 9$ and two com .1 nn strii- rcin joriK each, le thi' )ore a ^c the idges ) a dis m th( 3lishccl loo, of ir with- )of and lercest langc'd rtabl' rested |n /;'/<'(' joineil re-way kvinter. |r, near r-quar- [y next Id Too- dozeii I severe lits was expo- Iwas it n Sep- tember as many as ninety-three, in the latter part of which month Hall estimated that as many as a thousand passed in one day; in November fifty more were cached: and a few w(;re seen as late as January 27th. Th(!y did not again appear until'the nwA of Marcli, whim the does that were with, young began their migration. Hall's share in the exposures, hibors, and privations of the season was again of a severely trying character. On one visit to his favorite deer-pass, where he had been accustomed to watch behind a stone wall, he endeavored with Joe to cache five that they had killed the day previous, and within the weary hours of piling up over them rock and stone was over- tai tni::;hlly Reiinv, for Septemher, 1880, Mr. Francis Dalton, F. R. S., in an article under the heading (if " Mental Imagery," .says: "The Esquimaux arc geographers by instinct, and appear to see vast tracts of country mapped out in their heads." From tlie multitude of illustrations of tlieir map-drawing junvers, I will select one from those included \w the joiirr.als of Captain Hall, at p.ige 224, which were published last year by the United States government under the editorship of Trofessor J. E. Nourse. It is the fac-siniile of a chart drawn by an Esquimau, who was a thorough barbarian in the accepted sense of the word ; that is to say, he spoke no Innguage exccjit his own uncouth tungue. He was wholly uneducated :iccording to our modern ideas, and he lived in what we should call a strange fashion. This man drew from memory a chart of the region overwiiich he had at one time or another gone in a (.anoe. It extended from Pond's Hay, in latitude 73°, to Fori Cliurcliill, in latitude 58° 44', over a distance in a str.night line of more than 960 to i,i(X) English miles, the toast being so indented by arms of the sea that its length is .six times as great. On the C(.mparing this chart (rough Esquimau outline) with the admiralty chart of 1S70, their accordance is remark ible. 1 have seen many route-maps made by travellers in [i.ist years, when the scientific ex])loralion of the world was much less advanced than it is now, and I c-n confidently say that 1 have never known of any traveller, white, brown, or black, civilized or uncivilized, in Africa, Asia, or Australia, who. being unprovided with instru- ments, and trusting to his memory alone, has producetl a chart conionrable in extent and accuracy to this barbarous Esquimau. Ilie ly ■ Se I lie Ifl 11, H sh ^H It. H 0, H ist B ■V, ^B k, H lu- (95) \n y. ir. f^ \ 1 ¥ ll ■1 : It. ■ ■ : , ; : 1 ' ■ \ ": j'i i i ll I' '< ? I! i I 'm' My 1 ;• >f I ! i' 1 I ■ ^1 i i •■: ! 96 ARCVIC KXI'LORATIONS. a team, his own stock consisting of " but two female dogs, equal to one good dog, and two puppie?, equal to a quarter of a good dog." The price at which one had been held was not lower than a double-barrelled gun. Ebierbing, Ar-moo, and Nu-ker-zhoo, with their families, and the young native, She-nuk-shoo, made up his party ; ail the others had gone off from the encampment. The start was made with the wind fresh from the north-northwest and the temperature 50° below frost point, and the gale became very severe, beating fiercely and directly in the face of one who was poorly prepared to bear it, from his having eaten little or no food for several days. In writing of this, he says there had been before him an abundance of such as he would have relished, but he had been so busy in writing and so enwrapped in anxieties that he had little or no appetite. Delays from different sources increased, the Innuits some- times pleading that they must turn aside for a musk-ox hunt, and then rest the whole of the day following. The average travel was scarcely more than from two to three miles per day, the party nearing Cape Weynton on the south side of Colville Bay at the close of the twenty-eighth day — a journey made by Dr. Rae in '54, without a dog-team, in five days. Here Mr. Hall stored a goodly quantity of provisions for a journey he had resolved to attempt with the aid of white men, wliom he hoped to secure from the whalers in the coming spring, and on the 23d of May was safe again in his old camp- ing-ground of Beacon Hill. In February, 1867, he set out for Igloolik, to buy some dogs for his intended sledge-journey, which he reached on the 26th. Here he purchased fourteen dogs, and after a journey of fifty-two days, again returned to Beacon Hill ; but then the whaling season was open, and he was unable to secure the necessary men. In September he went into winter-quarters again, and on March 23d he set out with his two Esquimaux, a white man, Sailor, and the native, Papesooa, for King William Land. After many hard- ships he reached Todd's Island, where he recovered from several Innuits different articles which had formerly belonged to (Jrozier's party, of Sir John Franklin's expedition. ihe final return journey was now begun. All the natives who had gone with Hall were anxious to be safe back at Repulse Bay, Nu-ker-zhoo declaring that unless they started back in four days, the ice and snow would be ofif the sea, and < i SNOW XIIV 7. < 1 ! r CHAPTER VIII. •t: * THE POLAUIS EXPEDITION OF 1 87 1. Death and Burial of Captain Hall — The Polaris Leaves the Harbor and Drifts South — Thw Separation — Drift on the Floe — Rescue by the Tigress — Rescue of the Polaris party by the Ravenscraig. In 1870 the Congress of the United States appropriated the sum of ^50,000 for an expedition to the North Pole, and eight days afterward Captain Hall received a commission as com- mander of the same. The vessel selected was the steamer Periwinkle, a tug which had seen some service in tlie war of the rebellion ; her burden was 387 tons. After being newly and heavily tim bered and strengthened in her side-planking, the bottom was thoroughly caulked, then double-planked, caulked, and cop- pered. Everything else deemed necessary for safety and comfort was also done with such care that "no vessel, even if especially built, could have been better adapted to the ser- vice." Launched at the Washington yard, April 25th, 1871, she was named by Hall the Polaris, under which name she sailed for New York, June loth, and, after further equipment at the Brooklyn yard, proceeded to New London, June 29th, and sailed for the Arctic zone July 3d. Her complement of officers, including the scientific corps, was: C. ¥. Hall, commander; S. O. Budington, sailing- master ; George E. Tyson, assistant navigator ; H. C. Ches- ter, mate ; William Morton, second mate ; Emil Schumann, chief-engineer; A. A. Odell, assistant engineer; N. J. Coffin, carpenter; Emil Bessels, surgeon, chief of scientific staff^; R. W. D. Bryan, astronomer; Frederick Meyer, meteorologist. The crew consisted of fourteen persons, and the two Es- quimaux, Joe and Hannah, were again Hall's companions. On June 29th, 1871, the Polaris steamed out of New Yorl< harbor, and on the 13th of July reached St. John's, Newfound land, where the governor and citizens extended to the expe (98) !!1 THE POLARIS ENTERING THE ICE. (99) lOO ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. dition a hearty welcome. From St. John's they proceeded up Davis* Straits, and arrived at Holsteinbor<^, Greenland, on tht; 31st. They remained there purchasinjr doj^s, furs, and other articles necessary, until the arrival of tlie transport Congress, with additional stores and supplies ; after which, on August 17th, the journey to the pole was fairly commenced. Stops were made at Upernavik and Kong-i-toke, for the purchase of more dogs, and on the 2 2d, Tessuisak was reached, the most ilorthern permanent settlement on the globe, being in latitude 70° 30'. When they were in Holsteinborg there war- a difference ol opinion between Hall and his scientific associates as to the course to be pursued. Hall's object was to reach the pole, and to this he determined that all else should be subordinate. The dispute was adjusted, and Hall's view prevailed. During the three days they remained at Tessuisak he wrote a lengthy despatch, showing tiiat all the party were in excellent spirits, and full of hope, but this despatch did not reach the United States for nearly a year. On the 24th of August, 1871, the Polaris entered the regions of perpetual ice and snow, and from that time until the 30th of April, 1873, not a word was heard from the expe- dition by the civilized world. When the Polaris left Tessuisak she crossed the head of Melville Bay, passed Northumberland Island, going through Smith's Sound. Meeting with very little obstruction from the ice. she proceeded until she entered what Kane, Morton, and Hayes pronounced the open polar sea, but which proved to be but an expansion of the sound, and to which the name of Kane Sea has since been given. In a week they reac.ied their highest northern point, 82° 29' by Hall's reckoning, and 82° 16' by Meyer's calculation, a difference of about fifteen miles. On August 30th the chan- nel, which had been named Robeson Strait, became blocked with floating ice, through which it was found impossible to make a passage. A small bay was found close by named Refuge Harbor, in which Hall desired to take winter- quarters. A consultation, however, decided against this, and soon after the ice became master of the situation, drifting the Polaris in a southerly direction for four days. The pack opened on September 3d, and a cove was made to the east- ward, which set into the Greenland shore. An immense iceberg sheltered its mouth, and here it was determined to THE rOLARIK EXPEDITION OF 1 87 1. 1 01 pass the winter. The cove is in latitude 80" 38' and was named Polaris Bay, while the huge island of ice was desig- nated Providenceberg. This point is about 200 miles north of Kane's famous winter-quarters, and about three miles north of the farthest point reached by Hayes. Tlie iceberg was used as a mooring-place for the Polaris, an observatory Vv^as at once established, scientific work was coi.imenced immediately, and Hall began preparations for a sledge-journey in the direction of the pole, wliich were soon complc jd. On October loth he started with four sledges and fourteen dogs, accompanied by Chester, the mate, and die Esquimaux, Kbierbing and Hans. The expedition was planned to last two weeks, one to go north, and the othe: in HARBOR OF REFUGE— SMITHS SOUND. which to return. On the evening of the 20th Hall wrote the last words ever penned by him, which were a communication to the Secretary of the Navy. It was a description of their voyage up to the time of settling down in their winter- quarters, and was full of words of hope and confidence in the success of the expedition. A copy of the despatch was placed in a pillar at Brevoort Cape, the northern headland of the bay, where the encampment was made on the 21st of October, 187 1. The original, which was first read in Washington nearly two years after it was written, showed conclusively that he was confident of success, and, taken in connection with the one written formerly, refuted the charges that the equipment of the Polaris was incomplete. The expedition advanced 11 r. i ,1 i ail ; '\ - 1 02 ARCTIC KXl'l.dKATIONS. north UMi days, makinsj^ six cnrampmcnts and proirrrssinq; seventy miles, or ahoiit 83" 5' north. y\t that point tliere was an appearance ol land still north of them, hut a elonil pre- vented any observation wi'.ieii nould delinitcly settle the; mattiM'. With the exception of a i^lacier on tlu; <'ast side of the strait, commencinLT in latitnde 80" 30' north, the moun- tains on all sides of Kcimieily Channel ami Kobeson Strait were fre(! from snow and ice. Live sials, L;eese, ducks, musk- cattle, rabbits. wolvt;s, toxes, bi-ars, partriii^cs, lemminL;s, etc., were found in abundance. On the 13th, three days atler they started, the Arctic ninht set in, the thermometer theii bein_L;' 7°. 'I'lu; return trip was made raj)idly. the party reaching iIk; Polaris in four days. I lall was apparently in liis usual health, but the change from an o|)en-air temperature of from 15" to 20" below zero, to the atmosphere of tlu; cabin of 60° or 70° above, hail a bad effect Ujion him, antl hv. partook of no re- freshment except a cup of coffee. After intlulgini^ in a hot spono(; bath, he ri;tiretl for the ni^^ht. In tiie mornin*^ his condition had chanoetl for the worse, and he sufferetl much from a burning- in the throat, and vumltins^". He steadily j^rew worse for a week, and to the complications were added partial paralysis and delirium. H(,' j)artially recovered, and made an attempt to resume his woi k, believing;- that in a few d:iys he would be completely restored to health. In this Jic was doomed to disappointment, as on tht: nii^ht of November 8th he hatl a fresh attack, and was found in his cabin i)y Tyson insensible, and breathing;" heavily. That night he cUed, and three davs later he was laid in a shallow <'rave in the frozen ground. The doctor pronouncetl the cause of death to be apoplexy, but Mall believed that poison had been placed in the cup of coffee which he drank, and in the delirium which |)receded his death he imagined that every person who went near him was endeavoring to kill him In regard to the matter, the commission reported without a dissenting voice that " the death of Captain Hall resulted naturally from disease, without fault on the part of any one." Physically, Hall was an exceptional man. His tenacity of life and powers of endurance were far above those of ordinary men. Above medium height, he was powerfully built, with broad chest, muscular limbs, and a large; head. He was remarkable for his temperate habits, and after his re*^urn from I UK roi.AKis KxrKDirioN of 1871. 103 his second expedition, ixhv.r passini,' throiij^li the ordeal of an yXrctic winter, a more robust man could not have been Ibund. In the event of Hall's death the command was to fall upon Uudinf^ton. The winter was passed in the usual manner in liURlAL OF CAl'TAIN HALL. that region, but no trouble was experienced from cold or want of food. The scientific observations were made con- stantly, and whenever it was possible to do so, the coast was surveyed. Whenever the opportunity was favorable, the Esquimaux hunted with success, and in this manner an abun- 1:'^' i ! IT^' i ^(fi V '< ! !!■' j ■' i »■ /I i 104 AUCriC KXI'l.(>UAri()N«. ilaiUHM)!' skins was procured. TIic storerooms were also well rillctl witli the skeletons ol animals ami l)inls, e|L,'L^s, ami niany otlu;r curiosities of natur.il history. N<'ts and lines \V(T(; set, but no lish eouM Ix' euiijlit. Considirrahle. driftwood was picki'd up, uhiili had evidently foumi its way there from a warmer climate;. A fierce i^mIc from the northeast, about two weeks after tlu; death of 1 lall, drove the Polaris from her mooriiii^s, anil she drai;^!^eil her anchors until slu; kuuled ai^ainst the icelxTL; al the mouth of the cove, where she was secured, and remaineil there until Jun(! followim^. Later she was tlriven farther oa tlie b-rj; by pack-ice, where her prow remaininl fast, while the stern moved up and down, as inlluenced by the tides. This position straineil the stern-pit;ce and started a portion ol tiie piankini;', so that when sh(« once more settled in her native element it was fouiul ^K\l she leaked considerably. Howev(T, when emptied onci; by tin; steam-j)umps, it was an i^asy matter to keej) the hold clear by working a few minutes cacli hour. Chester and Tyson, under orders from Budini^ton, undcT- took a boat ex[)eililion early in Junt;. The orders were to jT^o as far as they could up the shore. The expedition was a failure. One boat was crushed by the ice almost at the hour oi starting-. Its place was supj)lied by the canvas boat, but they failed .0 reach a j)oint as far north as that reached by Hall in his sle«.lL]^e-journey. They remained there until the middle of July. 1S72. but before the ice opened they were recalled by Builington, and the party was compelled to abandon the boats, and make their way back to the steamer overland. Budini^ton had determined to return home as soon as the ice would leave iiim at liberty to do so, and under existing- circumstances tlrlr. s("enied the wiser course, althouirh it is not believed that had Hall been living he would have consented to it. The ice left the Polaris free early in August, and she steamed slowly down the western shore. At the close of the; first day she was fastened in the ice, and was in a very dan- gerous position. In latitude So° 2' she was made fast to a floe on the i 6th, which drifted her hither and thither in Smith's Sound for two months, during which time not more than twelve miles were qrained to the south, brinirinof her in the neighborhood of Northumberland Island, in latitude 79° 53'. RESCUE OF CAPT. GEO. E. TYSON AND PARTY. ! t v-il li-, ill h 'i\ 11 ,i .' ( 'u 1 i. Till' I'MlAKIS I'XI'llillInN (•!• iH'/l u»5 A|)|in lu'iitlinj'. tl.mjMT, |iinvisinii', wru- (.iiii' I on «l. (I,, a «;nn.i'' '.Ih-IIi'I vv.is rirjlrd mi iht- irr, and ivii in,t«l< !•>! .1 speedy .tliaMilnlliiHiil (>i die ve<.'.e| f.lmnld il Ix ,«»mi' net c"i'..ii y. /\ \eiy '.eveie j;;ile sel in (mm die '.niilh nn < >< Inlx i l',lll. riie it e |)i(".'.ed ill under die '.liiit, .iiid '.li< w.i . .1. |ii,dl\ lilird III! ol the water and lliiuwn on li>r It* am end. on die i* >■. r((iMsi<»n'. .ind '.lores were tliiowii ovei. and under (udeis .iIhmiI Ii.iII the new proreeded to < any them to a inoie mi um* |i|a((-. riie lioal'. h.id lieen loweird.and in tin- middle nl the iii'.'ht, in the midst ol a leriilK storm, the I'niaii . hiol.r hmse and iiniiiethately di.appe.ired, havilli; on the ice \\\c nilielrrn |Hi>,oiis who h;ii-eiit soon ( haiii'ed hei (oni .'\ ,ind ii. il. The hardships endured by those who were h,! 1 jion tin; i(c are heyoiKJ description. I'or i<>'^ days die-.e nmeleen men, women, and thiidren drille; in on them and they were without hope of saving the boats or their unfortimate companion. When daylight arrived an attempt was made to rescue them, all the party, except two, venturing away on the ice. All who ventured reached the boat in safety, and with much difficulty she was taken back, TIIK rOLAKlS EXTKniTlON OF 1871. 107 and Mt'yor was saved. The kayak was then secured in a similar manner. I'he tent was taken down and erected a!;ain on the centre of what had then become a small piece ot ice, and a snow hut was constructed at its side. A^ain the wiiul commenced blowino- a i^ale, and preparations were made 10 lake to the boat. They were literally washed out of the tent and snow hut. The women and children were plr^ced in the boat without a dry sjiot, and without so much as a piece of fresh vvater ice to eat. The storm soon abateil, howexcr. and the tent was pitched once more. The six months of the ^•oyal;e on the ice were completi'd April 1 6th. At that time they were still without any prospect of a rescue, and starvation was starini;- them in the face. Seals were in si^ht all around them, but none could be caught. Only a few days* j)rovisions were left, and cannibalism was starino- them in the face. On the i8th a small hole was discovered in the ice some distance ofl', from which a seal large enough for three da)s' provisions was secured, and divided equally among the party. On the 20th a sea struck the ice, and carrietl awav evervthinij which was loose upon it. This was repeated every fifteen minutes, and it kept all busy looking for a place which would enable them to successfully withstand the next shock. The agony of susp.ense continued ten days longer, and in that brief space were crowded many perilous adventures, which were a severe tax on the endurance of the sufferers. An observation showed that they were in latitude 53° 57', a distance of 1,875 iiiil<-'s in a straight line south from the point \vher(; they started. Kach day passed as did its predecessor, the; sufferers being all wet and hungrv. Sometimes they came within sioht of land, but were alwavs driven off again. Meyer seemed to fare worst of all, and his chances for surviv- ing more than a few days longer wert' considered slentler, ahhougli all were in a deplorable coiulition, and had suffered indescribable tortures. Skins that had been tanned and saved for clothing were devoun^d as a daintv morsel, but even this did not last long, and on April 26th they found themselves without a morsel of food. On that day a bear was tliscovered on the ice, moving toward them. The I'^squi- maux, Joe and Hans, took their guns, and at once went to meet it, the result being that the bear, which came after a meal, was soon the j-ubstance of one. That night another gale sprung up, accompanii'd by heavy rain and snow squalls. h i Wi 1l 1 !! f if ' 'j 1 ; . 1 1' ■ •1 1 1 1 i 1 1 1 ! \ , " I'l 'il; ii- ■h 1 1 «f. *^l lii ii io8 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. By mornini^ the ice upon which they had taken refuge had so wasted away that it became evident it would not outride the oale, and they were compelled to take the desperate chance of a stormy ocean, in a light boat, insecurely patched and overloaded. The danjxer was o^reat, but the boat survived the storm, its occupants being thoroughly drenched, without any chance to dry themselves, having seen neither sun, moon, nor stars for a week. They soon struck a sealing ground, where they found more seals than they had ever seen before, but for some time were unable to secure any. They were, however, at last successful, and had seal food in abundance. The ice soon became very thick around them. They again started in the boat, but were soon compelled to land on d.e ice again, where they repaired the boat, and dried their cloth- ing to some extent. On the 28th of April the inevitable gale commenced again, and all night they stood by the boat, launch- ing her in the morning, but were compelled to haul her up on the ice, where icebergs threatened her destruction, but which they fortunately escaped by taking to a floe. The ice became slacker, and during that afternoon they caught sight of a steamer ahead of them and a little to the north. They hoisted their colors, and endeavored to cut her off, but she disappeared without seeing them. Wearied with, hardship and disap- pointment they landed for the night on a small piece of ice. For the first time in many nights they beheld the stars, and the new moon also made her appearance. A fire was kept up all night in the hope that they would be seen by the steamer ; though in this they were disappointed. In the morning they started early, and at daylight again sighted the steamer about five miles off The boat was launched and for an hour they gained on her, but in another hour they became fastened in the ice, and could proceed no farther. Landing on a piece of ice they hoisted their colors upon the most elevated point they could find, and then fired three rounds from their rifies and pistols, which were answered by three shots from the steamer. She was again seen the same even- ing, and while looking, for her another steamer hove in sUA\t on the other side. The morning of Wednesday, April 30th, was thick and foggy, but when the fog broke a glorious sight met the eyes of the drifting party. A steamer was seen close to them, and as soon as they were discovered she bore down, and soon all THE POLARIS EXPEDITION OF 1 87 1. 109 were on board the staunch little, cra^*- Tigress, ending their perilous journey in latitude 52° 35' north. The Tigress was in command of Captain Bartlett, and was owned in Newfound- land. Some time after the party was landed in safety at St. TYSON'S CREW SIGHTING THE SCOTCH WHALER, WHICH RESCUED THEM OFF LABRADOR. John's, Newfoundland, and a few days later the tidings of their rescue reached the United States. A steamer was despatched by the government from New York to bring the party to Washington, where they arrived early in the month of June. '■i If m no ARCTIC EXl'LORATIONS. i ,'! .i;i ; '■ 1 J ' I Thus closes what is probably the most remarkable voyage in the history of navigation. It is marvellous that nineteen persons, two of whom were women, and five children, one of them only two months old, should have drifted almost two thousand miles, for one hundred and ninety-five days, through an Arctic winter of extraordinary severity, alive, and in good health. The harmony which existed among the party was striking. No one had a word of blame for any of his fellows, and the men, gathered as they were from nearly all nationali- ties, always thought first of what could be done foi the Esqui- maux women and children. In his testimony before the commissioners, one of the men said: "Captain Tyson had command on the ice ; but he never seemed to lake much of a lead. Everything seemed to go on very well. There was not a great deal of commanding; it was not wanted. When we did not do as he directed, it turned out wrong." Let us now return to that portion of the expedition re- maining on the Polaris after the sudden separation on tlic 15th of October, 1872. For a long time she had been leak- ing so badly that it was evident she could not float many days, and it was resolved to abandon her. Everything which could possibly be of use in a sojourn in that wilderness of ice and snow was taken out. The hawsers which held the steamer to the ice-floe parted, and she drifted away in a help- less manner. The lives of those on board were in great danger. It was clear she was in no condition to reach port, so it was determined to keep her afloat and beach her at some point where the stores could be saved. Her engines were useless, having evidently frozen up. Fortunately the ice cracked, and an opening was made, through which a favorable wind blew her to the shore, distant about twelve miles. The beaching was successfully accomplished, and the work of providing shelter for the winter was immediately commenced. The ship was stripped of all her material as rapidly as possible, and soon became a mere hulk. The tim- bers between deck were taken out, and all the planking and boarding removed. From this material a hut was built and roofed over with sails. A party of Esquimaux made their appearance, and for some strips of iron helped to carry the provisions, coal and stores from the dismantled Polaris to the hut. Having been extremely successful in their hunting ex- peditions they had a large surplus of skins which they dis- THE POLARIS EXPEDITION OF 1 87 1. Ill oyage leteen 3ne; of St two 1 rough d cTood ty was fellows, tionali- Esqiii- )re the on bad ich of a ere was When ition re- t on the en leak- at many nor which ss of ice leld the n a help- lin great .ch port, li her at engines ktely the which a It twelve land the mediately Iterial as irhe tim- Ung and )uilt and Ide their larry the lis to the king ex- key dis- posed of to the party, and from which was manufactured warm clothing. During the long winter they suffered little. The snow which fell banked up the hut and protected its in- mates from the cold, while the Polaris formed a convenient wood-pile, where they obtained all the fuel they needed. Their provisions were ample for a time, but they knew they would soon be exhausted, and became fearful of their fate. They knew that for at least a year no news of the probable loss of the Polaris would reach the United States. " How should they escape ? " was the g-reat question propounded by each. There is always a man for every emergency, and in the present instance Chester, the mate, proved the hero. Assisted by the carpenter, Coffin, he set about building some boats, or scows, from the boards which had been usc;d as a lining for the cabin. The work was patiently persevered in, and as summer drew near, the boats were finished. Scurvy, that dreaded disease of the Arctic regions, made its appearance, but following the teachings of the dead Hall, the men abandoned the use of salt food, lived on raw walrus liver, and soon the malady was eradicated. A fortunate thing for the party was the unusually early appearance of good weather. By the middle of June the ice commenced giving way, and at the earliest possible moment thereafter they took to the boats, and commenced their voy- age in search of transportation home, with the odds fearfully aLTainst their success. While they were on their way the Tigress and Juniata were being fitted out to go in search of them. The frailty of their boats compelled them to proceed slowly and cautiously. During the day they rowed along, and each night the boats were hauled up on the ice, where the only warm meal for the day was enjoyed. Their stove was a slight improvement on the Esquimau lamp, and their fuel was oil, while their wicks were strips of rope, and the fire- place a remnant of an iron kettle. A snow-storm delayed them several days at Hakluyt Island, a breeding-place for the auks, which were at that time hatchincr their von nor, and which supplied them an abundance of food limited only by their powers of consumption and the means of carrying it away. After leaving the island their progress through th'e slush was very slow and laborious. They skirted the solid ice- I 1 11 ! am 112 ARCTIC KXPLORATIONS. floes until July 20th, and just two clays before the Tig^ress left New York in search of them, they sighted a vessel, which soon discovered them, and took them on board. She prov id to be a Scottish whaler, the Ravenscraig. Not haviiio secured a full cargo, and wishing to do so before he returned home, the captain of the Ravenscraig transferred the party to another steam-whaler, the Arctic, homeward bound, and on the afternoon of September 17th thoy landed at Dundee, Scotland. Their arrival was at once telegraphed to London, and the safety of the crew of the Polaris was announced the following morning in the American papers. Thus ended one of the most wonderhil voyages on record. Out of the forty men, women and children comprising the expedition, only one death, that of Captain Hall, occurred, a most marvellous preservation of life amid the greatest danger to wliich mariners were ever subjected. The unfortunate decease of Hall in the infancy of the enterprise prevented the accomplishment of such results as were desired and ex- pected. With the commander died the hope and heart of the expedition, and no further attempt at discovery or origi- nal exploration was made. The loss of so brave anci skillful a navigator may well be an occasion for the deepest sorrow and regret amongst all who reverence and admire American prowess and heroism. ("3) u u M Q PQ I ■ ' ■' i ' ' j mn i fj III, ifl CHAPTER IX. ': «'' ■I '' y :l ■'f| THK GERMAN EXPEDITION UNDER KOI-DEWEY. Departure from Bremerhaven — Separntion from the Hansa — Wreck of the Hansa — Adnft on the Ice — Danger of Starvation — Return to Fredericksthal. The first German Arctic expedition, commanded by Cap- tain Koldevvey, and originated by the celebrated scientist, Dr. Peterman, of Leipzij^, departed from Bremerhaven on the; 15th of June, 1869. The ship Germania was especiall)' built for this expedition, and nothing was overldoked to make tiic* outfit as complete as possible. The ship Hansa was to ac- company the (iermania as a tender. The vessels sailed up through the North Sea together, and did not separate until J inuary. May en Land was passed, and the Arctic Ocean actually entered. On the 15th of July the Germania entered the ice-circle of Greenland. The two vessels became sepa- rated, and met again on the i8th, but tliroiigh some misunder- standing of signals they became once more separated, and never met agfain. Meeting with impassable ice to the west, the Hansa steered to eastward out of the ice, and began afresh. Hav- ing reached open water a second attempt was made at pene- trating to the coast in the latitude corresponding with the instructions. Until the loth of August the Hansa experi- enced good weather, and with a favorable wind sailed along the edge of the ice in a northerly direction, until, reaching the desired latitude, it was once more thouglrt best to attempt the desired coast. But disappointment again met the crew. After sailing westward one night, they found themselves on the morning of the 14th hemmed in again on ail sides; fresh ice formed between the floes, besides filling up every passage, so that the Hansa was fast again ; and from this time forward until the complete blocking up of his vessel,^ the captain's log- book unfolds a series of troubles, dangers, and reverses. For a long time it was hoped that the floes would part and allow the unfortunate craft to make toward the coast. Land ("4) ^ Hi K KXPEUITION UNDER KOLDKWEY. I'S could be seen at a distance of not more than thirty-five miles, and a boat journey over the ice, and throu^jh such channels as occasionally presented themselves, seemed to confirm for a time that slender expectation. In the meantime, measures were taken to abandon the ship if it should become neces- sary. The sailors' winter clothing- was distributed ; the boats were made ready, and their respective crews told off; and the plan of their winter house was discussed in view of the possi- bility of being obliged to resort to one. Their worst fears were soon realized. On the 19th of October the pressure of the ice upc:. the Hansa began to be tremendous. Huge ice-blocks forced themselves under her bow, and though these were crushed by the iron sheeting, they raised the forward part of the ship seventeen feet out of water, or rather out of its former position in the ice. The conviction soon seized the minds of the crew that the Hansa must break up, and the clothing, nautical instruments, jour- nals, and cards, were in all haste taken over the landing- bridge. The ship soon began to leak, and it was plain that it must be abandoned. All the provisions that could be secured from the wreck, together with fuel, medicine, and whatc:ver could be easily moved in their present position, were dragged over the ice to a safe distance from the sinking vessel. A house had already been constructed from pieces of coal, and to this, their only resort, they were obliged to repair. In the meantime the floe on which their residence was built was drifting steadily to the south. The routine in the black house soon became established, and as it closely re- sembled that on board ship, the lonely sailors readily adapted themselves to it. Care was taken to make the little settle- ment as conspicuous as possible in order that it might be seen by any Esquimaux who should happen on the coast. The food was lengthened out by the shooting of an occasional walrus, and free use of this article of diet was effectual in preventing scurvy, from which the party continued remarka- bly exempt. The first days of January were destined to bring sad changes for the exiles on the ice. On the 1 1 th there were heavy storms from the northeast, with driving snow. At six in the morning Hildebrandt, who happened to have the watch, burst in with the alarm, "All hands turn out!" An '.ii'j' I ! ■ ! ■f '1: ■ ■ 1 f' :' ^ .1 1 ; i i Ml' 116 ARCriC KXPI.ORATIONS. indescribable tumult was licard outside. With furs aiid knapsacks all rushed out. But the outer entrance was snowed up, so to !:;ain the outside quickly we broke throuirh the snow-roof of the front hall. Tiie tumult of tlu: elenuiits whi( h met us tliere was b(;yond anything we had already (-\. peric;nced. Scarcely able to leave the s[H)t, we stood hud- dled together for protection from the bad weather. vSiid- denly we heard, "Water on the floe close by!" The lloi surroundinij^ us split u\) ; a heavy st;a arose. Our field becrnn a^ain to break up on all sides. On the spot between our house and the; j)iled up store of wood, which was about twenty-five paces distant, there suddenly opened a large oap. Washed by the powerful waves, it seemed as if the piece iiist brokt.'n off wa - about to fall upon us. Tlu! iiouse was shattered in fragments, and a temporary bivouac in the boats had to be experienced. A new house had to be constructed for temporary vse ; the boats were drawn nearer the middle of the floe, and all exigencies, so far as possible, provided for. So for several months the drift to the south continued ; the only hope of release being in the boats, when the influence of the now rising sun and the southern latitude should open a channel in the rugged pack. The month of May at last arrived, but to the weary watdi- ers on the ice release seemed as far off as ever. From the spot where the Hansa had foundered, in 71° north ladtude, they had moved to 61° — a distance of nearly 700 miles. They were startled to find that only six weeks of provisions remained, and that unless efforts were put forth to reach some inhabited spot, they must expect one by one to drop away from starvation. A small island called lUuidlek lay about three miles away, and to this it was determined to remove, unless there should be some immediate and unlooked-for change in tho ice. To this point, with much labor and many stoppages, they suc- ceeded in dragging the boats and scanty stores. Here they spent some days looking in vain for traces of life, and the habitations of the Esquimaux whom the old voyager, Graah, had found here. Existence could not be sustained here lor any protracted period. Even the animals, both on land and sea, seemed shy, and unwilling to minister to their necessi- ties. Moreover, there was now open water sufificient to warrant embarking in the boats, and at any rate death upon llXI'liDITlON UNDKK KOLDEWKV. »i7 the sea was no more terrible than slcnv starvation upon a rocky, barren islet. Accordinnrly, on the Otli of June, tiie hoats were launched, sails were exK^mporized, and the party wiM'c once more in motion, ijlad in th(.' consciousness of at least makin.i; an effort to save their lives. Their aim was Frederichstahl, the nearest colony on the southwest coast of Greenland, but they hoped soon to meet one or the other of the I'^squimaux seal-boats srarchintj^ the I'iord. No such fortune, however, j^waited them, tlunigii the iiicreasinf warmth and si<^ns of vegetation along the coast as they sailed by gave promise of comfort and plenty in the near future. Rounding Cape Farewell, they came in sight of the long- MISSIONARIES IN GRKKNLAND. vvished-for bay of Fn^derichstahl on the 13th of June;. The little settlement situated on this bay was the seat of the most southerly of the Moravian missions of Greenland. In this far- away place, self-sacrificing men from the Fatherland had setded for a life of isolation and toil among the ignorant and almost savage natives of this frozen continent. How the sight of their homely red houses cheered our band of weary voyagers, and how sweet to them sounded their own mother- tongue, spoken by warm-hearted countrymen ! From this point the troubles of our voyagers ceased. They were soon able to procure passage in a Danish vessel to Copenhagen. From this city they sped homeward by rail, and once more trod German soil on the 2,<^ of September. I !l ■i' li' :■;€ rli I "'A I' r > i I I^JHll ' i il *! iiS AUfTIC KXPF.nRATFONS. Let US now retrace our stei)s to tlie nortluvanl. wlicrc we \v.(t the Germania stru<^^ling with the ice of" I'^asi dreenland, and comoare her experience; with that of h(.*r unhappy con sort. '] o be separated lor a short time from the sister-ship undir existin 1 \m Mm ' It' '■ ! iil 126 ARCTIC EXPLORA'nONS. covery, and it was thus that the Aiistro-Ihinji^arian expedition originated. It was the plan of those wlio had the expedition in hand to penetrate east and north during the latter half of August, when the north coast of the great island of Nova Zrmhla is ON BOARD OF THE TEGETTHOFK. Ml free from ice. The places for wintering were left undeter- mined ; they were to be chosen according to circumstances of need or progress. In case of the loss of the ship the ex- pedition was to endeavor to reach the coast of Siberia by ^'iUH wcn'^Oi' di'sliiial lo srr. vnr I'csscI i,i nur/cr." Scpl'inlxr came on with ils inc rca'.in;; coM ; ()i\n\\<-r (ipcn«'d \\\\\\ il^; really wintry vvcallicr, and yt no si^Mis 01 rc- Icis'". I Ik' shi|>, as lirnily Jastcncd ;is with iron bands, diiltfd iiorlhward widi tin: Hoc wlii( I) lornicd ils |)rison. riuis lar no harm h.id iinnicdialdy thrcilmcd tlu; 'IcjLM-tt- Iiofl and ii'M* rrc;w, l)nt tlu* 13th of ()(lol)cr was dcslinrd to hriii'4 iK'W and cxL-it'ni; cxix-ricnccs. In ihr: inornini,'^ of that (lav, as the men sat at IjrcaUlaiit, the (lo( to which the V(;ss(rl was attached burst asund(;r directly below them. " kiishini,^ on (N-ek," says I'ayer, "we discovered that wo were surronniled and scpiee/.ed by tluMce ; the alter part of the ship was already nipj)ed and pressed, and the rudder, wiiich was tlu^ fust to encounter its assault, sliool: and j^roanctd; Init as ils i;reat wei_L;ht ilid not permit ol ils bein;^' ship|)ed, we wvxv. content to lash it lirndy. Nois(! and (onhision r(Minied suprcnne, and st(;p by step destruction drew nii^h in tlie cnish- iiiL!' tosjether of tlu,' liekis of ice." The loULjf niijlit and its fearful cold was bf^fore tluMii, and they were driftin!^ they knew not whither. I )aily, for ouf; luiinlred and thirty days,, they vv(;re destined to experience those terribU; oncoininirs of the ic(.'. They kept ev(M-ythin(^^ in rcadin('ss for n;treat from the: shi|> in case the worst came to the worst. Their sledi^es were loaded, their boats wen; manned, antl their dothiuL;; and pnjvisions were distributed. They sle[)t in their wet, fro/.en <^arments, expectini^^ to be called up at any time and driven forth on the ice. J^ut whither should they i^o ? 'I'Ik; sea about them was liftinn,^ and qriiKliiii^ far beyond the; view, (jreat hummocks danced and whirl(;d, overturnin<^" at times with tremendous force, while diasins op(;ned on every hand, threateninir to swallow up any slcdoe, or boat, or person, venturinL; on the uncertain surface. It was fortunate that these first encounters with the ice oc- curred while it was yet light. Had these assaults surprised thcni amid the polar darkness, confusion and disorder would have taken the place of the calm jireparations they were now able to make. The pressure meanwhile continuing, it was thought best to 9 uV iftfhi I30 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. .f'i make some kind of a liahltation upon a firmer floe, to which thi;y mioht bctakr themselves in an emeri^cncy. Armed ami provided with lanterns tiiey removed two l)()ats, ont' lunulred and fifty 1ol;s of wood, fifty planks, and a supply of coal, to the port side of the vessel, and there built their house ot refuge. But even this hope might fail them. A storm might carry away the planks which formed its roof, fire might con- sume the combustible substance of its walls, and at any lime TRANSPORTING WOOD ON SLEDGES. a fissure might open from beneath and swallow up the whole community. The winter of 1872-73 slowly crept away, and the sun, by its reappearance, gave promise of summer. Summer came, but the months of May and June, in temperate climates the glad harbingers of growth and life, brought no relief to the waiting travellers. " Nichts als Eis " (nothing but ice) was the oft-repeated answer of those who eagerly scanned the horizon in every direction. The second summer of the voy' THE AUSriHAN EXPEDITION. 131 ntje had come and nearly j^one. It had bejjjun vvidi promise of libenition, but the time of j^reatest heat had gone by, and no .si,iL,m of the predicted release had come. 'I'he idea of dis- coveries had utterly passed out of the minds of the explorers, and yet discoveries beyond their utmost expectations were awaiting them. August 30th brought them, in latitude nearly 80°, a joyful siir[)rise. "At mid-day," says Payer, "as we were leaning on the bulwarks of the ship, and scanning the gliding mists, through which the rays of the sun broke ever and anon, a wall of mist, lifting itself up suddenly, revealed to us afar off in the northwest the oudines of bold rocks, which in a few minutes seemed to grow into a radiant Alpine land. At first we all stood transfixed, and hardly believed what we saw. Then, carried away by the reality of our good fortune, we burst forth into shouts of joy — 'Land, land, land at last ! ' . . . . For thousands of yea- s this land had lain buried from the knowledge of men, and now its discovery had iallen into the lap of a small band, themselves almost lost to the world, who, far from their home, remembered the hom.ige due to their sovereign, and gave to the newly discovered territory the name. Kaiser Franz-Joseph's land." The fall and winter of the present year were occupied in determining more fully the extent and configuration of the island or Arctic continent just found. This work was conducted chiefly by means of sledge journeys to and over the rough surface of the country which they had dignified with the name of their emperor. One experience in the fissures of what was named Middendorf Glacier is especially worthy of note. The party after a brief halt were just setting out again, when tiie snow gave way beneath the sledge-runners, and driver, dogs, and vehicle were precipitated into some unknown depth below. Payer fi-st heard the confused shouting of the man, mingled with the barking and howling of the dogs from the bottom of the crevasse, many feet below. "All this," says he, " was the impression of a moment, while I felt my- self dragged backward by the rope. Staggering back, and seeing the dark abyss beneath me, I could not doubt that I should be precipitated into it the next instant. A wonderful providence arrested the fall of the sledge ; at a depth of about thirty feet it stuck just between the sides of the crevasse, just as I was being dragged to the abyss by its weight. The M ww w r I ;l .1 !l ii Mir i m I it: 132 ARCTIC EXFLOKATIONS. sledge having jammed itself in, I lay on my stomach close to the awful l)rink : tiie rope which attached me to the sledge tightly strained, and cutting deeply into the snow." By incretlible tact ami perseverance Payc;r at last freed himself from the sledge, and set about recovering the store of lost provisions, the manuscripts, which couUI nevt^r be re- placetl, and above all, about the rescue of the fallen coniiaile who '.as the "pride nnd gem of the party." Being th(; only one of the party accustomed to glaciers, Payer was of neces- sity c'.nost alone in his exertions. Rushing back to the tent where most of the men had rejiiained, he hurriedly explained what had happened, and all hastened to tlie spot of the dis- aster, leaving the tent and stores un watched. They found their poor comrade nearly dead from the cold, but sufficiently conscious to be pulled to the top of the ice-cliff over u'lich he had fallen. The dogs were found uninjured and quietly sleeping near him. Franz-Joseph's Land was found to be almost as large as Spitzbergen, and to consist of two main masses — Wilczek Land on the east, and Zichy Land on the west — between which runs a b 'oad stretch of sea, of ice, called Austria Sound. At the time of this exploration tlu; sound was cov- ered with ice for the most part not more than a year in growth, crossed in many places by fissures, and piled up with huoe hummocks. The fact that here many icebergs were seen, which had nc' been the case in the Nova Zembla seas, warranted the supposition that they floated away fiom the ice- packs in a northerly direction. The experiences of two winters in the ice had forced the party to the conclusion that the liberation of the Tegetthoff was too remote for them to hope to save themselves by navi- gating the path over which tiiey had come by its aid. Her abandonment was therefore universally aijreed on, and the 20th of May, the very day on which, in 1854, Kane had left the Advance on the coast of Greenland, was chosen for the first steps of their present enterprise. Their stock of instru- ments, which had done them such good service, together with the little museum, which all had taken so much pride in en- larging, had to be; abandoned, as the journey southward to the open sea could only be made by relieving the men and dogs of everything except absolute essentials. Boats, sledges, everything that could be taken, were at last y. C/3 w 'Si N ry) I I ^^2;^ I ( 134 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. removed, and the march begun. For die first few days the burdens had to be dragged over hummocks and through fis- sures, without even the variety of water upon which to launch the boats, hi a short time, however, narrow leads appeared, produced by the advancing summer and a fortunate combi- nation of other circumstances, into which the boats were placed, and a sort of doubtful navigation was begun. But these leads were limited, and great masses of ice must be continually thrust out of the way. Moreover, a south wind arose which tended to destroy what progress they had been able to make, so that after a lapse of nearly two months of indescribable efforts the distance betzvcen them and the ship was not more than nine English miles. It was a joyful day for our explorers when at last, on the 15th of August, in latitude 77° 49', they bade farewell to the frozen ocean, and launched their barks on the more genial waters of the Nova Zembla Sea. There being no room for the dogs in the boats, nor other pos- sible means of conveying them, it was thought humane to kill them, which was done to the infinite sorrow of the entire party. The problem of their rescue was now simple compared with the difficulties which they had just successfully combated. It was not, however, until they had reached and passed the Admiralty Peninsula, on the west coast of Nova Zembla, and were nearing Gan.se Land toward its southern border, that the welcome sight of a ship greeted their longing eyes. Here they met on the 24th of August two Russian vessels crui.sing for fish and reindeer on the shores of Nova Zembla. The services of one of these vessels were readily engaged, and the long-; suffering crew were soon on their way to Norway, after a ninety-six days' experience in the open air. On the 3d of September they landed at Vardo, on the Norwegian coast, and on the 5th embarked for hjamburg, where they ar- rived amid the congratulations and applause of thousands of friends and countrymen. CHAPTER XI EXPEDITION OF CAPTAIN GEORGE NAKES. The ships Alert and Discovery — Death from Exposure — Mavkliam's SIc(l;;e Journey — He reaches the Highest Point attained thus far — Lieutenant Schwatka's Expedition — In King William's Land — Relics of Sir John Franklin Discovered — The Records of McClintock Found — Safe Return. Another Arctic expedition, consisting of the ships Alert and Discovery, under Captain Sir George Nares, Commander A. H. Markham and Captain H. F. Stephenson, was sent out by the British Geographical Society in the year 1875. The officers and men of both vessels numbered 120, many of whom had seen Arctic service as whalers or tixplorers. The Valorous accompanied them to Disco Island as store-ship, and having there transferred her surplus stores to the other two, she left for home July 1 6th, 1875. On the voyage to Disco they had encountered much loose ice off Cape Farewell, and many heavy gales, in which they lost two of their whale-boats. Leavincr Disco on tlie 2 2d, the Alert and Discovery steamed across Baffin Bay to the north- west instead of hugginp- the Greenland shore through Mel- ville Bay, and struck the great central ice-pack July 24th. In thirty-four hours they succeeded in boring through the pack into open water — a feat never before performed, and which the Greenland masters declared " would ne'er be credited at Peterhead." It helped to prove the superiority of steam- power for Arctic navigation. Reaching the vicinity of Cape York many icebergs were seen aground and closely crowded, indicating that they would perhaps not have fared so well had they taken the old route through Melville Bay, and around that cape. Pushing north they soon arrived at Carey Islands, where they landed and established a depot of supplies, depos- iting the usual record under a cairn. Passing Littleton Island, where they left a record, and Port Foulke, which Nares styles "the Elysium of the Arctic regions," they made for Cape Sa- (135) i'f ''''ii ml (:.:itifl ,'Viv^*ii •i-Mi "ad 136 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. binc, the easternmost promontory of the Ellesmere Land of Inglc'fickl, in 78° 45'. Off tliat point, July 30tli, they saw the ice in i;reat quantities, but in the middle of Smith's Sound it consisted of detached floes, five or six feet thick, with occa- sionally an old floe of twice that thickness, but much decayed, and presenting no serious obstacle to their onward progress. At lt:ngth, however, their way was blocked by impenetrable ice, and they were detained three days in Payer Harbor, i i"\'\ &i> SIR GEORGE NAKES. ill! ■ • awaiting a practicable opening. Several fruitless attempts were made to bore through, but at last success crowned their efforts, and on the 4th of August they forced their way through twenty miles of Hayes Sound. Soon, however, they got entangled in the pack, making but little headway, and finally were completely beset, barely escaping collision with a huge iceberg, and finding it necessary to unship their rudders. With great labor, and amid many dangers for three weeks EXrKniTION OF CAPTAIN GEOROK NARKS. 137 longer in Kennedy Channel, tliey reached Cape Liebor, Hayes' limit of i860, on the 24th of August, and entered Lady Franklin Sound. Here in the shelter of an island was found a good harbor, perfectly suitable for winter-quarters; and to enhance their aood fortune, they saw on the next morning a herd of nine musk-oxen peacefully cropping the fresh and short-lived Arc- tic vegetation, all of which were killed, forming a very season- able addition to their stores, notwidistantiing the llavor "was so very musk." Before thi; loth of October tlujy had shot thirty-two of them, and had at one time over thre(.' thousand pounds of their frozen (lesh hanging up. The Discovery was left here, remaining frozen in for ten and a half months. Their first care was to take ashore and deposit provisions for six months to guard against the conting(-'ncy of disaster to the ship by fire or otherwise during her detention. Snow-walls were then constructed around her after the now well-known type, but heavier than usual, being made fifteen to twenty feet thick. These precautions, with the ordinary provisions for heat, kept the temperature of the lower deck at 48° to 56°, throughout the winter. The period of darkness, that is, ab- sence of sunlight, set in on the loth of October and lasted 135 days. Leaving Stephenson and his men busy with their prepara- tions for winter, Nares pushed on in the Alert, and on the 31st of August reached latitude 82° 24', in Robeson Channel — the highest point ever attained by ship, and only 21' short of Parry's sledge limit, 82° 45' north of Spitzbergen. In this channel the sea-ice approached the land-ice so close as to leave but a narrow waterway, and off Cape Sheridan they closed together, completely locking the northern entrance, or exit, into the polar sea. Along the coast a jagged parapet of ice frinired the shelving ledges, rising to an average height of about twenty feet, interrupted at intervals by ravines. Hav- ing rounded the northeast point of Grant Land, he found him- self where Hayes had been so anxious to reach, but instead of the Open Polar Sea of that navigator he found the ".Sea of Ancient Ice," impenetrable and forbidding. The ice was of unusual age and thickness ; for instead of the five or six feet of the common floe, and the ten or twelve of the old floes hitherto encountered, it presented a front of fifteen or more feet above water, and a total of eighty to one hundred SI I ^ 1 I I i 138 ARCTIC EXV\A )RATI()NS. .iil ^?'J " and twenty feet — resembling a connected chain of low ice- bergs rather than the floes or packs of more southern lati- tudes. In ihr. shelter of such ice, wlu^re the submerg(>(l por- tion, extending to the land, left a sufficient waterway for tiu; ship, Nares found safe though not inviting winter-cjuartcrs; and here they were soon frozen in by the newly formed shore- ice. While most of the ship's company were briefly cngag(>d in the usual labors for the safety of the ship and stores I.ieuteii- ant P. Aldricii, accompanied by Adam Ayles, set out Septem- ber 2 1 St, with two dog-sledges — dogs and sledges for the expedition had been secured at Disco — under orders to pio- neer a route round Cape Joseph Henry, on the north side of Grant Land, for a larger party which was to follow. I'\)ur days later, Commander Markham, with Lieutenants A. A. C Parr and W. H. May, started with three sledges to establish a depot of provisions as far to the northwestward as would be found practicable. On the 27th Aldrich and Ayles, from a mountain top two thousand feet high, in latitude 82° 48', de- scried the wide-extending land to the northwestward as far as 83° 7', with lofty mountains to the south. They returned to the Alert on the 5th of October, after an absence of fourteen days. A week later they entered on the Arctic night, the sun having disappeared below the horizon; and on the 14111 Markham returned after a trip of nineteen days, having es- tablished the depot at 82° 44', and tracing the coast two miles farther to what miirht be regarded as the exact latitude reached by Parry, elsewhere", nearly a half a century before. Mafkham's party comprised twenty-one men and three offi- cers, of whom seven men and one officer returned badly frost-bitten, three so severely as to require amputation, ilie thermometer ranging through the trip from 15° to 22° below zero. Meanwhile, from the 2d to the 12th, Lieutenant Raw- son had made an unsuccessful attempt to open communication with Captain Stephenson in Lady Franklin Sound. The ice was found impassable within nine miles of the ship, being rotten and unsafe in the channel, and piled up thirty feet hit^Ii on the shore, while the deep snowdrifts in the ravines made the overland route equally impracticable. The usual efforts to amuse and instruct the ship's company were inaugurated under the auspices of the commander, who says that of fifty-five men who composed the crew of the EXI'KDI'lloN OK CAP IAIN CKORGK NARKS. 139 Alert only two wore found who could not read. Besides the school tor instriur.ion tliere were lectiin^s, readinj^s, concerts, and theatrical representations, Thursday of eacli week being devoted to these entertainuKMits. The hrst theatrical per- formance was t;iven on the i8th of November, and was thus formally announced: "The Royal Arctic Theatre will be opened on Thursday next, the iSth inst,, by the powerful Dramatic Company of the Hyperboreans, under the distin- (Tiiished patronasj^(* of Captain Nar(;s, the members of the Arctic I'LxplorinLi;- I'^xpedition, and all the nobility and orentry of the neighborhood." On tin; 1 )iscovery similar entertain- ments were given, its theatre being opened Decjnber ist, and the plays being rendcired alternately by officers and nK.n. Each vessel had a small printing press, which was used for issuing programmes and bills of fare on occasions of gr( at dinn(M-s. ()n the anniversary of the (iunpowder Plot, No- vember 5th, they had a bonlirt; on tin; ice, \nd burnt Guy Fawkes in the approved style. Christmas was dius observed: "First of all, in tiie morning we have Christmas waits in the usual mann(;r. A sergeant of marines, the chief boatswain's mate, and three othc^rs, went around th(^ ship singing Christ- mas carols suited to the occasion, and made a special stay outside the captain's cabin. On tlu; lower deck in the- fore- noon there were prayers, and after that captain and officers visited the» mess in the lower deck, tasted the pudding, in- spected the decorations which had been made, and so on. Then the boxes of presents -by friends in FLngland were brouU 1; r : . And now the time for sledge-exploration was near at hand ; and it became important to establish an imderstandinor be- tween the two ships, so as to secure concert of action. Accordingly, on the 12th of March, 1876, sub-Lieutenant Egerton and Lieutenant Rawson, accompanied by Christian Petersen, interpreter, were despatched to attempt once more to open communication with Captain Stephenson. Four days later they returned to the Alert, Petersen having completely broken down. His hands were paralyzed, and his feet so badly frozen as to require amputation, which, however, did not save him, as he died some three months later. E^^ rton and Rawson, accompanied by two seamen, resumed the attempt, and were successful; and communication as well as co-operation between the sledge-parties of both vessels was established. Lieutenant Beaumont of the Discovery, in command of eight rnen, crossed Robeson Channel with great difficulty over the broken and moving ice, and explored the Greenland coast to latitude 82° 18'. Scurvy broke out among his men, and two died before reaching Polaris Bay. Beaumont pushed on to his limit, but four others succumbed soon after turning their faces to the ships. The three that were not disabled hauled the sick with the provisions on the single sledge, always making the journey twice, and often thrice, over the rough ice. " The gallant band," says Nares, " struggled man- fully onward, thankful if they made one mile a day, but never losing heart." While they were thus laboring on in the heart of a frozen desert, a search party consisting of Lieutenant Rawson, Dr. Coppinger and Hans, the Esquimau, was de- spatched, and had the good fortune to fall in with them when the remaining assistants of Beaumont were on the point of also succumbin<>- to the disease. The three officers had now for a time a monopoly of the hauling business, but no lives were lost, and the party reached their depot of provisions on Polaris Bay, where the well succeeded in shooting game, and the invalids soon recruited. Including a lengthened stay at that point, they were absent from the ship one hundred and thirty-two days. Lieutenant Archer surveyed Lady Franklin Sound, and found its head, sixty-five miles inland, surrounded by lofty mountains and glacier-filled valleys. Lieutenant Fulford and Dr. Coppinger explored Petermann Fiord or Bay, which also was found to terminate in a steep glacier- EXrKDIIION Ol- CAI'TAIN GEORGE NARES. 141 front. Some good coal was found on Discovery Bay. These local trips and Beaumont's Greenland Division of Arctic ex- ploration constituted the Discovery's quota ; the Alert's men took charge of the Western and Northern Divisions. Lieu- tenant Aldrich, with seven men, explored two hundred and twenty miles to the west side of Grant Land, finding nothing in sight beyond but the wide-expanded sea. On his return, when met by a relief party under Lieutenant May, only one of his men was in a condition to assist in hauling four dis- abled comrades, while the other two feebly struggled along by the side of the sledge. It was noticeable that the officers in all these sledge-journeys escaped the scurvy, while nearly all the men were attacked. Captc-vin Nares was severely criticised, on the return of the expedition, for alleged neglect of sanitary precautions, in fail- ing to provide liberal supplies of anti-scorbutic remedies on these trips ; but it was learned that the same difference in health between officers and men was manifest on the ves- sels. Men who had not been detailed for any of these expe- ditions, but had all along been within reach of hygienic, medical and anti-scorbutic treatment, were also attacked, there being no less than thirty-six cases at one time on the Alert. It was therefore probably due to the generally superior physical condition and the greater self-helpfulness of the officers that the disparity was due, and the same phenomenon may be noticed in any epidemic. The better-kept men, intel- lectLially, morally and physically, always show the smallest percentage of deaths. The great exploring feat of the expedition was performed by Commander Markham's party. Accompanied by Lieu- tenant Parr, Dr. Moss and Mr. White, one of the engineers, and twenty-eight men, he set out for the north on the 3d of April. The equipment consisted of four eight-men sledges —so called because each was manned by seven men and an officer; two boats for possible navigation in northern waters; four tents, eleven feet long, and about seven feet wide ; and between 1700 and 1800 pounds of provisions to each sledge. The sledges were named Marco Polo, Victoria, Bulldog and Alexandra. The costume of the men was composed of a thick woollen, blanket-like material, under a suit of duck to repel external moisture. On their feet, besides thick woollen hose, were worn blanket-wrappers and moccasins ; and all P-R 142 ARCTIC EXl'LOKATIONS. 11 :if 'Mi wore spectacles as a protection ai^ainst snow-blindness. Each slept in a separate ha'^ of the same heavy woollen material as the day-clotliini^, and the eight, in the compass of tht; eleven feet of t(Mit, which was of the same warm material. Breakfast STARTING ON A SLEDGE JOURNEY. was taken before quitting the bags, and consisted of a panni- kin of cocoa, some pemmican and biscuit. After five hours' travel a lunch of biscuit, with four ounces of bacon and a pannikin of hot tea, was taken ; and at the close of the day's journey, varying from ten to twelve hours, when the tents EXrEDITION OF CAPTAIN (.EORGK NARES. M3 were pitched, and all, except the actinij cooks, snugly ensconced in their bags, a supper of pemmican and tea was served. With the pemmican was always mixed a certain proportion of preserved potatoes. For the first few days fair progress was made, though from the outset the way was rough and difficult, and the tempera- ture rather low for comfort — on the 6th it was 35° below zero. On reaching the depot of provisions at Cape Joseph Henry, established before the close of the previous season, the party was rearranged. Fifteen men, with three sledges, and a total weight in provisions and supplies ot 6,079 [pounds, accom- panied Maikham and Parr over the high, rough hummocks of the "Sea of Ancient Ice." On the loth, " Distance made crood," says Markham, " one mile ; distance marched, seven." "On the 12th it was i^ made good to nine travellfcl; the 17th, 1% to nine; and on the i8th, one to ten, and taking ten hours to do it." " Course and distance made good, north, •four miles; distance marched, thirteen miles," and similar entries mark the most favorable proportions. But often only a sinfrle sledge could be drac^ged over the hummocks at a time with their combined force, thus requiring five successive trips to cover the same piece of ground ; and this was some- times varied by two additional trips to carry forward a few disabled comrades. On the 19th it was deemed advisable to lighten the burden by leaving one of the boats beiiind — it was not likely they should need more than one for all the " Open Polar Sea " they would fall in with. This weighed about 800 pounds, but two of the men were prostrated by the scurvy, and had to take its place. " Before quitting the boat, an oar was lashed to its mast, and the mast stepped, yard hoisted, and decorated with some old clothes," to serve as a signal whereby to reach it on their return. With the hummocks recurring every hundred yards or so, varying only in height, and the intermediate spaces covered with drifted snow-ridges, and the temperature almost con- stantly below zero, their progress was necessarily slow — very slow, snail-like and tortuous. "The journey," says Nares, "was consequently an incessant battle to overcome ever- recurring obstacles, each hard-worn success stimulating them for the next struggle. A passage-way had always to be cut through the squeezed-'jp ice with pickaxes, an extra one being carried for the purpose, and an incline picked out of the per- m i iki Hiil I5j 144 ARCTIC KXri-ORATIONS. pondinilar siilc* of tlu' liii^h floes, or roadway hiiilt up, Ixfore tlu: sI(iIl,h"s — t^cncrally one at a tinu' — could be brouj^iu on. Instead of advancing wilii a steady walk, the usual means of proirrcssion, more than half of each day was expended by the whole party facing;' the sledge and pulling;- it forward a few feet at a time," On the last day of April they were: conijiellcd to halt in the presence of a new (;nemy, the foo-, whicii endaii- ij^ered their becoming- entangled in a labjrinth of hunimo( ks. This weary work was continued dirouLjh the; hrst liiird of May, with a constant increase in the nundoer of the sick, when it was decided to leave them behind, while the stronoer ones were to make a final push for the highest point attainabh". A camp was established for the invalids, provisions and sup- plies on the nth, and left in char^-e of the cooks. On the mornintr of tlu^ 12th, Markham and Parr, with such of the men as were still in a condition to venture forward, set out, encumbered only with a few instruments and the national colors. Markham thus relates the last advance: "We had • some very severe walkintjr-, throujrh which the labor of drat^^- ging a sledge would be interminable, and occasionally almost disappearing through cracks and fissures, until twenty mimitcs to noon, when a halt w^as called. The artificial horizon was then set up, and the flags and banners displayed, these llutter- ing out bravely before a southwest wind, which latter, however, was decidedly cold iid unpleasant. At noon we obtain(;d a good altitude, and proclaimed our latitude to be S^° 20' 26" north, exactly three hundred and ninety-nine and one-half miles from the North Pole. The leaders, Markham and Parr, though they had reached the highest point ever attained, were no more than half content at the meagre result of so many hardships. But they were destined soon to find that the decision to return was the salvation of the party, as almost all the men were stricken down with scurvy before reaching Depot Point, near Cape Joseph Henry, By forced marches and indomitable energy they succeeded in getting the men to camp on June 7th; and while Markham watched and labored for their comfort, Parr set out for the Alert, thirty miles aw^ay. Equipped with only a walking-stick and a couple of light rations, he trudged off alone to hurry up a relief party, stimulated by the consciousness that on his exer- tions depended the life-chances of those he had left behind. Fortunately he proved equal to the emergency, and in twenty- h, . i m m lO (2'»S) «l 146 AKCrriC KXPLORATIONS. I I W ■ If !( ' !rli! ii'Si four hours reached the ship. Before midnight of the 8th, Captain Nares was on the way to Depot Point at the head of a relieving party. Lieutenant May, Dr. Moss and a sea- man, with a light dog-sledge, were sent forward as a lightly equipped advance party, and reached the camp in fifty hour; from Parr's departure. Short as had been the interval, one of the sick, George Porter, had died, and was already buried in the snow ; but no other life was lost. Of the fifteen men who left Depot Point two months before with Markham and Parr, only three were able to assist in dragging th(i sledges back ; three others struggled along behind, often falling and sometimes fainting; while nine had been utterly prostrated and had to be crrried on the sledges in the tedious manner already described. They had reached seventy miles north of Grant Land over the Pal^eocrystic ice, as Nares called it. Captain Nares concluded to return to England, where he arrived on the 27th of October, 1876, after an absence of six- teen months, with his ships uninjured and with only the loss of life already mentioned. Early in the summer of 1878 Lieutenant Schwatka, U. S. A., who had taken an active interest in the subject from boy- hood, asked for leave of absence from his place of duty on the plains, came to New York and asked permission to organize a search party, for the purpose of discovering the supposed records of Franklin's last voy.ige. After listening to his proposition, Judge Daly, of the Geographical Society, gave him all the information in his possession concerning the probable whereabouts of the missing treasures; commending him also to General Sherman, and indorsing his application to be detailed to command the exploring party. The lieu- tenant also conferred with Messrs. Morrison & Brown, of New York, concerning the use of a whaling vessel for the transportation of the party to the scene of their labors. Their only available ship, the Eothen, was at sea, but upon her arrival her owners offered her for the use of the expedi- tion, and she was refitted in the best manner for the comfort of the party. Prior to his departure Lieutenant Schwatka received in- structions for his procedure as follows, from Mr. Morrison: "Upon your arrival at Repulse Bay you will prepare for your inland journey by building your sledges and taking such provisions as are necessary. As soon as sufficient snow is KXPEDITION OK LIEUTENANT SCHWATKA. M7 the tniling cation ieu- n. ot r iht .\bors. upon Kpedi- mfort id in- Irison : re for |v such low is on the ground you will start from King William's Land and the Gulf of Boothia. Take daily obsf^rvations, and whenever you discover any error in any of the charts you will correct the same, marking thereon also any new discoveries you may be fortunate enough to make." He was further admonished to carefully preserve all records found, and keep them safely in his own possession or to intrust them to his Esquimau interpreter. Finally, he was advised, even though his ex- pedition proved a failure in its particular end, to make it a ideographical success, as his facilities for doing so would be excellent. The Eothen sailed from New York on the 19th of June, 1878, being accompanied down the bay by several tugs con- taining the friends a. J relatives of the explorers. Her officers and crew were as follows: Captain, Thomas F Barry ; Jeremiah Bomepus, chief mate ; James Piepper, sec- ond mate ; James Kearney, boatswain ; H. Omenheuser, cooper ; Frederick Woern, blacksmith ; Charles Budley, Cc'ipenter, and ten seamen. The exploring party was com- posed of five persons: Lieutenant Frederick Schwatka, com- mander; Colonel W. H. Gilder, a New York correspondent; Joseph Ebierbing, Esquimau guide and interpreter; Henry E. Klietchak. civil engineer, and Frank Mellers, assistant enmneer. After leaving the investigating party at the scene of their adventures, the Eothen cruised about for whales a short time, and finally returned to New London. Schwatka and his comrades spent the winters of 1878-79 and 1879-80 in investigating King William's Land, the sup- posed last resting-place of most of Franklin's men. In this work they were greatly assisted by the activity, intelligence and willingness, both of their native interpreter whom they had brought, and also of the Esquimaux of the neighborhood which they were examining. In the summer of 1880 many interesting relics of Franklin and his party were discovered. There were many pieces of wood, iron and other material, which by names marked upon them, or by other signs, were proved to have belonged to one of the two ships. Many articles with private marks were discovered. The general testimony borne by Rae in 1854 received ample confirmation, and many additional proofs of the fate of Franklin and his men were unearthed. Not only was the record of M'CIin- m n^ 148 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. tock's discovery in 1859 found where he had deposited it, but the camp of Captain Crozier, which had been found and occupied by his whole party, was discovered, with many relics of interest. There were several cookinjr-stoves with ilu;ir accompanying^ copper kettles, besides clothing, blankets, can- vas, iron and brass instruments, and an open grave, where was discovered a quantity of blue cloth, part of which was wrapped aroun^l a body. On his return late in the summer of 1880, Schwatka re- ceived great homage from the American government for his discoveries, and also from the English nation, for his delicate and humane service to the remains of the lost English sub- jects. i 1^1 ! i!. ' ■.Hi :'!! ) i| CHAPTER XII. NORDENSKJOLD S POLAR VOYAGES. NonlcnskjoUrs Numerous Polar Voyagt-s — The Vega — An Old 1 roblem Solved — ^Th« N, itlierninost Point of Asia — A Winter in the Land of the Tchuktchi — A Trip around ilic Wnrld — Magnificent Festivities ir Honor of Nordenskjcld and his parly. Adol.f Eric Nordenskjold is a native of Helsingfort, the capital of Russian Finland. In consequence of a toast given by him at a supper party in 1855, he was deprived by the Russian Governor-General of a small official position he held in the museum of his native city, and consequently left the country, and took service with Sweden, becoming State mineralogist in 1858, and from 1859 ^^ 1878 took part in no less than seven Arctic expeditions, mostly as their leader. These expeditions were, to Spitzbergen in 1861 and 1864; an attempt to reach the Pole, in 1868 ; to Greenland, in 1870; to Spitzbergen again, in 1872-73; to the Yenisei River in Siberia, in 1875, and again in 1876. Besides these there were two Arctic voyages, in 1868 and 1871. By all these voyages the information in relation to Spitzbergen and Greenland and ibe adjoining seas was largely increased. In the voyage of 1875 to the mouths of the Obi and Yeni- sei, Nordenskjold landed on the 8th of August on the penin- sula of Yalnial, that is, in Samoyed, Land's End, separated from Beli Ostrov or White Island by Malygin Sound. It had been reached in 1737 by Selifontov in a reindeer-sledge, and was first mentioned in the narrative of Skuratov's jour- ney of the same year. A more southerly portion of it was traversed by Sujeff in his overland journey from Obdorsk to the Kara Sea in 1771. In the second voyage of the younger KruscMistern in the Kara Sea in 1862, when the Yermak was abandoned on the coast of this Samoyed peninsula far to the south, in latitude 69° 54', the commander and crew escaped ^ .' land, destitute of everything, but had the good fortune to fall in with a Samoyed elder, the owner of 2,000 reindeer, who took them to Obdorsk, about 600 miles distant by the ('49) I : M' ISO ARCTIC EX I 'LO RATIONS. route taken. "We saw no inhabitants," says Nordenskjcild, " but everywhere along the beach numerous tracks of men some of them barefoot — reindeer, dogs, and Samoyed sledjres were visible. On the top of the strand-bank was found a place of sacrifice, consisting of forty-five bears' skulls of vari- ous ages placed in a heap, a large number of reindeer skulls, the lower j'w of a walrus, etc. From most of the bears' skulls the canine teeth were broken out, and the lower jaw i ,;i m i : '•I SAMOYED ENCAMPMENT. •was frequently entirely wanting. Some of the bones were overgrown with moss, and lay sunk in the earth; others had, as the adhering flesh showed, been placed there durini^ the present year. In the middle of the heap of bones stood four erect pieces of wood. Two consisted of sticks a metre (3,28 feet) in length, with notches cut in them, serving to bear up the reindeer and bears' skulls, which were partly placed on the points of the sticks, or hung up by means of the notdie^, §1"' li'tf' NORDENSKJOLD S POLAR VOYAC-ES. iskjcild, men — sledges buntl a of vari- r skulls, t bears' wer jaw les were Ihers had, ng the lood four [ti-e (3-2^ bear up llaced on notches, 151 or spitted on the sticks by four-cornered holes cut in the skulls. The two others, which clearly were the proper idols of this place of sacrifice, consisted of driftwood roots, on which some carvings had been made, to distinguish the mouth, eyes, and nose. The parts of the pieces of wood intended to represent the eyes and mouth had recently been besmeared with blood, and there still lay at the heap of bones the entrails of a newly killed reindeer. Close beside were found the remains of a fire-place, and of a midden, consisting of reindeer bones of various kinds, and the lower jaws of bears. Sailing on at some distance from the coast, and at one place passing between the shore and a long series of blocks of ground-ice, which had stranded along the coast in a depth of nine to sixteen metres (29^ to 52^/^ feet), during the night we passed a place where five Samoyed tents were pitched, in whose neighborhood a large number of reindeer pastured." The results of those several voyages are thus summed up by Nordenskjold : "The exploring expeditions, which, during the recent decades, have gone out from Sweden toward the north, have long ago acquired a trul}- national importance, through the lively interest that has been taken yi them everywhere, beyond as well as within the fatherland ; through the considerable sums of money that have been spent on them by the state, and above all by private persons ; through the practical school they have f ^""med for more than thirty Swedish naturalists ; through important scientific and geographical results t!: -y hav' -ielded ; and through the material for scientific research, which by them has been col- lected for the Swedish Royal Museum, and which has made it, in respect of Arctic natural objects, the richest in the world. To this should be added discoveries and investigations which are, or promise in the future to become, of practical impor- tance ; for example, the meteorological and hydrographical work of the expeditions ; their comprehensive inquiries re- garding the seal and whale fisheries in the Polar seas ; the pointing out of the previously unsuspected richness in fish of the coasts of Spitzbergen ; the discoveries on Bear Island and Spitzbergen of considerable strata of coal and phosphatic minerals, which are likely to be of great economic importance to neighboring countries ; and, above all. the success of the two last expeditions in reaching the fnouths of uie large •:. f 1 ; Ml! i'' *i ill 152 AKCriC EXPLOKA riONS. Siberian rivers — tlic Obi and Yenisei — navigable to the con- fines of Ciiina, whereby a problem in navigation, many cen- turies old, has at last been solved." On the 22d of June, 1878, the steamer Vega, purchased at Bremerhaven, for the seventh and most celebrated Arctic \ oyage of Professor Nordenskjold, left the harbor of Karls- krona. Besides the Vega, with her company of thirty pcr- CUTTING ICE-DOCKS. sons, of whom only four were seamen, the others beinq^ officers, engineers, and scientists, three other vessels which belonged to the merchant, Sibiriakoff, were at the disposal of the commander of the expedition, consisting of quite a little fleet, with the Vega as a sort of fiag-ship. They were the steam-tender Lena, Christian Jonannesen, captain; the steamer Fraser, Emil Nilsson, captain, and the sailing-vessel Express, under Captain Gunderson, with their respecti\'e corps of petty i!!':; II NORDENSKJOLD S POLAR VOYAGKS. 153 : cop.- j cen- sed at Arctic Karls- i per- beinf^ vv'hicli )sal of little tre the teamer {press, If petty officers and crews, and S. J. Seribrienkoff as supercargo, and representative of the commercial interests of tiie owner. The two merchantmen were to meet the Vega and her tender at Chabarova on Yugor Schar or Vaigats Sound, lying between the island of that name and the Russian mainland, which waL also tlie appointed rendezvous of the Lena, should she get separated from the Vega. The name Yugor is derived from the old name of the adjoining portion of the continent, Jugaria, or Yugaria, the supposed intermediate seat of the Hungarians, between their departure from their original Tartar home in Central Asia and their migration southward to their present location, toward the close of the ninth century of our era. On the 4th of July the Vega left Gothenburg, but encoun- tering head-winds off the west coast of Norway her progress was slow, and It was not until the 17th that she reached Tromsoe, where she was to take aboard the commander, and be joined by the Lena. Here they shipped three walrus- luinters, and such special Arctic equipments as reindeer skins, besides coal and water. On the 21st, about fifteen days later than intended, they set out on the regular voyage, making for Maossoe, a small island of the Northern Archipelago, where they were to have their last mail facilities. Here they were detained three days by adverse winds, instead of that many hours, as anticipated. Leaving Maossoe on the 25th, they steamed through Mar- geroe Sound, between the island of that name, the northern extremity of which is known as North Cape, and the main- land of Norway. The Vega and Lena parted company the first night in a fog, but each proceeded on its way to Chab- arova. The Vega was steered due east to within a few miles of the west coast of Nova Zembla, which they sighted on the 28th at 70° 33' by 51° 54' east, in about seventy-five hours from Maossoe. This was about' midway between the Matot- schin Schar, or Sound, and Yugor Schar. The Matotschin Sound divides Nova Zembla into two large islands of unequal size, the larger terminating at Barentz Land away to the north, in latitude ']'j°, the chief interest in which is connected with the fate of the early navigator, thus commemorated. An account of his voyage has been given in its proper place ; but a fresh interest has Been awakened by the recent discovery of the winter-house erected by him and his companions at Ice Haven, in Barentz Bay, on the east coast of Barentz 1 1i 154 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. ':!. ■'>'-. ! Land, a few minutes north of latitude 76°. On the 9th of September, 1871, Captain Carlsen, a Norwegian, while cir- cumnavigating Nova Zembla, discovered the house, with many interesting relics, in a remarkable state of preservation, and brought them home, whence they found their way, through the zeal of Barentz's countrymen, to the Hague, where they are carefully preserved. "No man," says Markham, "has entered the lonely dwelling where the famous discoverer sojourned during the long winter of 1596, for nearly three BARENTZ' HOUSE. centuries There stood the cooking-pans over the fireplace, the old clock iagainst the wall, the arms, the tools, the drink- ing-vessels, the instruments, and the books that beguiled the weary hours of that long night 275 years before. Perhaps the most touching relic is the pair of small shoes. There was a little cabin-boy among the crew, who died, as Gerrit de Vere tells us, during the winter. This Accounts for the shoes having been left behind. There was a flute, too, once played by that poor boy, which still gives out a few notes." ■1 ! ! NORDENSKJOLD S POLAR VOYAGES. 155 The more southern of the twin islands of Nova Zembla is separated from Vaitjats Island to the south by the Kara Part, or passage to the Kara Sea. The part of this island which was now sighted by the Vega's company is known as Ganse- land, because of the great numbers of geese and swans which breed there. By the end of June, or early in July, the greater part of Gooseland is free of snow, and soon the Arctic flora discloses all its splendor for a few weeks. Giving themselves plenty of sea-room, but in the main following the trend of the land, they proceeded to the southeast, and farther on, east- southeast, to Vaigats Island, of which they had an excellent view, the air being exceptionally clear. From the Murman Sea to the west it seemed a level, grassy'plain, but on ap- proaching the sound, low ridges were seen on the east side, which were regarded by Nordenskjold as the last spurs of the great Ural range. They found the merchantmen awaiting them when they arrived at Chabarova on the 30th, and the Lena put in an appearance the next day. The Fraser and Express had left Vardvje Island off the northeast coast of Norway on the 13th, and had been in harbor since the 20th. Nordenskjold's e> pedition quit their anchorage off Chaba- rova on the I St of August, and steamed through the sound, the Fraser towing the Express into the Kara Sea, which ex- tends from Nova Zembla to Taimur Peninsula, receiving the waters of the Kara. Obi, Taz, and Yenisei, through the gulfs bearinsf the same names. It was found that " no notable portion of the miiss of fresh water which these great rivers pour into the Kara Sea flows through Vaigats Sound into the Atlantic Ocean ; and tiiat, during autumn, this sea is quite available for navigation." On the 2d they met no ice ; on the 3d only ice that was very open and rotten, presenting no obstacle, and in the evenina: arrived in siHit of the larcje island of Beli Ostrov. The Lena had been despatched ahead with three of the naturalists, under orders to pass through the sound which separates it from the peninsula fof Yalmal. On the 6th, passing Sibiriakoff Island in the mouth of the Yenisei, they anchored in Port Dickson, on Dickson Island, where they were rejoined by the Lena on the 7th. They finally reached Taimur Sound, and on the 19th they steamed by a large? high, unbroken field of ice, extending from a small bay on the west side of the peninsula. A little farther on, they had the good fortune to find, just west of the low- 's M 156 ARCTIC KXI'l/iKATIONS. juttinir promontory — or ratluT iii tin: fork of it — an open bay vvliich tlu'v named Kin<; OsL.ir, and in wliich hotli steamers came safely to anchor in the eveninsj;^. Tliey iiad nouhen^ met sucii old drift-ice as is encountered north of Sj)it/l)erL;(n. " We iiad now reached a j^oal," says Nordenskjold, " \vhi( h for centuries iuid been the object of unsuccessful strunroles. For th(? first time a vessel lay at anchor off the northernmost cape of ihe Old World. No wonder, then, that the occurrence was celebrated by a tlisphu' of llags, and the Hrin^- of salutes, and when we returned from our excursion on land, by festivi- ties on board, by wine and toasts. The north point of Asia forms a low [)romontory, which a bay divides into two, the eastern arm projecting;; a little farther to the north than the western." Both the cape and the immediate tonfjuc of land back of it are now distinctively known as Cape Chelyuskin and Chely- uskin Peninsula, both ' the honor of the Russian explorer of that name. T'le ^rcat Taimur Peninsula, of which this tongue and cape form the extrenK.' northern projection, is now further divided geographically into a West ami Ivast Taimur Peninsula by the Taimur Lake and ri\er; and it is to the eastern half that Ch(;lyuskin Peninsula belongs. On the night c)f the 28th of August the Vega and Lena parted company in the open sea, in about longitude i 28° 30', off Tumat Island. While they followed the coast they fouiul open water, always at a safe distance from the land on the one hand, and the ice-pack on the other. It was therefore demonstrated that, at least in seasons as favorable as 1878, the whole voyage may be made without mcf^ting any serious obstruction from ice. The Lena reached Lakoutsk on the 2 1 St of September atnid great rejoicings, being the iirst ocean steamer that had ever reached that far inland city, about 800 miles from the sea. A^er parting with the Lena, as stated, the Vi\ga kept on to the jast, reaching 132° at noon, and sighting Stolbovoi Island in *,he r.fternoon. On the 1 st of September they were a*- i 50°, aboi'.l one degree north of the mouth of the Indigirka, and on the 2d the temperature fell to one degree below zero. On the 3d snow began to fall, and when they arrived off Bear Islands, north of the mouth of Kolyma, both vessel and land were lightly covered with it. The channel west and south of the islands, through which they passed, was almost free of 'a u A U (»S7) il i! !r' • V' '»• 158 ARCTIC KXrLORATIONS. iH, . ,.^i'l! ice, but a little farther out ice was abundant, and on the 4th, east of the islands, heavy masses were found to have drifted south, compelling the Vv.ga. to bear down nearer the coast toward the Greater Baranow Rock. Indeed, ever sine*- doubling Sviatoi Noss, the ice seen was more like that to be met off Spitsbergen, dian any they had hitherto encountered on this vo) age ; but no icebergs or large glacier blocks had been met or sighted. On the 5th they were off the mouth of the Baranicha, so often mentioned in the account of Wran- gell's sledge-journeys. Passing the entrance to Tchaun Bay in the night, they reached Cape Schelagskoi at four o'clock on the afternoon of the 6th. On the 1 2th, beyond Cape North, the Vega at last found her way blocked by the ice-pack, and turning back, found temporary refuge near the cape, where they were detained by the untowarcl condition of the ice until the 18th. On the 29th, finding no lane, lead, or outlet through the pack, the Vega was moored to a mass of ground-ice, 130 feet long, 80 wide, and 20 high, which afforded a fair shelter, but 110 proper haven. This, however, proved to be the winter- quarters, except that later on ship and shelter were pushed by the outer ice to within seven-eighths of a mile of the coast. Soon the ice-belt which had obstructed their advance grew from six or seven to eighteen or twenty'miles wide, and there was no longer any hope of getting away until the ensuing summer. Their exact position was ascertained to be in lati- tude 67° 4' 49" north, and longitude 173^ 23' 2" west — 180° east, half the circumference from Greenwich, had been passed at Cape North. During the winter months many excursions to interesting points w.ere made by members of the expedition, by which valuable information was obtained about the country and its inhabitants, the Tschuktchi. At length the moment of release approached. The tem- perature had remained below freezing point to the middle of June. On the 14th, however, there was a sudden change to milder weather. A heavy thaw set in, and the coast land was so covered with mud and slush that all excursions had to be discontinued. But the ice which bound the ship was still so strong that the explorers did not expect to be able to leave before August. Throughout their stay there had been open water seaward, but usually at a great distance from the ship. •!::■,,* NORDKNSKJOIJ) S I'Ol.AU VOYACKS. 159 "On tlic 1 6th of July," says NordcnskjoUl, "a heavily hdm double sledge could still be driven from the vt;ss(;l to the shore;" and the next day the year's ice around them bei^an to break up, but the <;round-ice was still undisturbed, and it was judij^ed that several days would elapse bet'on; they could (rot clear. So the commander determin<;d to take die steam- launch to s(!a, and visit some whalers rttportcd by the natives to be off Serdze Kamen. But by 1.30 on tiie iStli. when al- most ready to set out, there was noticed a movement of the ice which held the Vega. An hour later Palander, who was prepared for every emergency, had steam up, and in another hour the ship was free. At 3.30 she steamed away, first a litde to the west to get clear of the floe, ^and then in the right direction, eastward for Serdze Kamen and liehring Strait, en- countering no further obstruction from the ice thenceforth to the close of the voyage. The detention in winter-quarters had lasted 293 days. In tfMi hours they passed Serdze Kamen, and steering thence southeast, they arrived off Cape East in Hehring Strait on the morning of the 20th, and at (deven o'clock, being about midway between the Arctic and Pacific Oceans, *' the Vega t(reeted the Old and New Worlds by a display of flags, and the firing of a Swedish salute." Thus finally was reached the i^oal toward which so many nations had struggled, all along from the time when Sir Hugh Willoughby, with the firing of salutes from cannon, and with hurrahs from the festive-clad seamen, in the presence of an innumerable crowd of jubilant men, certain of success, ushered in the long series of north- east voyages 326 years before. The prevalence of fog rendered unadvisable a landing, otherwise much desired, at Diomede Island, the famous market-place of the polar tribes, situated in the narrowest part of the straits, nearly half way between Asia and America, and probably before the time of Columbus, a station for traffic between the " Old and New Worlds." They first cast anchor in St. Lawrence Bay, where various expeditions and investigations among the tribes on the east coast of the Fchuktchi Peninsula were zealously taken up, but only for a single day, as the commander was anxious to reach a tele- .,Taph station to communicate the safety of the expedition to the king and people of Sweden, and the world at large. Steaming across to the American side they anchored in Port '1 i ! 1 : ; 1-! M i^fl k ' 1 ■ 1 j \ 1 ■ ■• 1 1 r \ ' ' ''1 I ;■] !■■ !s ! ;i ill { f ■ I f,i ii! nil' ;i{ 160 ARCTIC I'-XP I, ORATIONS. Clarence, where tliey were soon called upon by the Esqui- maux for interchange of civilities, nifts, and barter. Here they remained until the 26th, when the Ve^a recrossed to ih'> Tchuktclii Peninsula, farther to the south than before, and ;ui chored in Konvani Bav on the 28th. The mountains wen^ high and split up into pointed sutnmits with deep valleys still partly filled with snow ; but no glaciers were seen. The inner bav vvas still covered with an unbroken sheet of ice, which ATTACKED BY I'OLAK liKAKS. suddenly breaking- up on the 30th, they beat a rather precipi- tate retreat, just in time to escape the last chance of condict with the great enemy of Arctic expeditions. Steaming away to St. Lawrence Island the Veea anchon'd m an open bay on the northwest coast on the 31st, Notwith- standing its very considerable size, eighty by thirty miles, the island has no good harbor, and the Vega left her exposed situation on th.e 2d of August. The next anchorage was madf on the 14th in an almost equally exposed bay on the NORDENSKJOI,!) S POLAR VOYAGES. i6i west of Bchring- Island. In the dreary, treeless land, where RchriiiL;" and coniDanions met nothing; but desolation, sand- hills, and ravenous foxes, Nordenskjold and party found a thriviiiLj colony of American and Russian traders, with chvcllinq;-houses, official buildings, storehouses, a school-house, and church. Behrino^, Copper, and Toporkoff Islands, besides several islets and rocks, constitute the group known as Com- manelcr's Islands. "The part of Behrino- Island which we saw," says Nordenskjold, "forms a high plain resting on vol- canic rocks, which, hov/ever, is interrupted at many {)laces by deep ke.tde valleys, the bottoms of which are generally occu- pied by lakes, which communicate with the sea by large o*. small rivers. The banks of the lakes and the slopes of tlie hills are covered with a luxuriant vegetation, rich in ^ong grass and beautiful flowers; and might without difficulty feed large herds of cattle, perhaps as numerous as the herds of sea-cows that formerly pastured on its shores." Finding here a steamer of the Alaska Company bound for Petropaulovsky, Nordenskjold was somewhat relieved of his anxiety to reach a telegraph station, whence to despatch news of the safety of the expedition. After a short but pleasant sojourn at the civilized colony, they left their moorings on the 19th, and on the 25th struck the Gulf Stream of the Pacific. On the 2d of September, at 9.30 in the evening, the Vega anchored in the harbor of Yokohama, Japan ; and NordcMi- skjold at length had access to a telegraph station, and also a litde experience of official obstruction in getting his messages off. Here he learned that a relief steamer, called by his name, had been sent forward by his friend Sibiriakoff, and had been stranded on the coast of Yesso, fortunately without loss of life, and with a fair prospect of being got off safely. From here the expedition returned to Sweden via Ceylon, Point de Galle, Aden, the Suez Canal, Naples, Gibraltar, Boulogne, Paris, and Copenhagen, where they were honored by magnificent receptions and festivities. II rMi i;:i I'l 1 \\ < ' wis '■ ill f r :' ■mw ■Irj liillfi mm I ! I', !'«: :;iji %\ m ! 1: l! i 1, 1 .i ■i ■ • <\i ■ i.i .: ■ ■ " ( ! ' ■ i' CHAPTER XIII. THE UNFORTUNATE EXPEDITION OF THE JEANNETTE. Lieutenant DeLong's Expedition sets out from San Francisco in the Jeannetle — He reaches St. Lawrence Bay, East Siljeiia, where he learns 'hat the Vega liad gone South — Lieu- tenant Danenliower in Danijer of losing the Sight of his left Eye — An Opi.ration Per formed — Two Winters in tlic Pack — The Jeaiineite Crushed by the Ice — Relrcat South. ward — Discovery of Henrietta and Bennett Island — Melville and his Party Saved— DeLong and his Men die of Starvation, and Chipp's Boat Swamped by the Sea— DeLong's Last Records — How Noros and Nindemann were Saved — Search for DeLong and Chipps — Return of the Survivors. The American Arctic Expedition, commanded by Lieuten- ant Georg-e W. DeLong, of the United States Navy, whidi left San Franci.sco July 8th, 1879, was projected by James Gordon Bennett, proprietor of the New York Herald. After the return of the last of the two successful expeditions whidi he had sent to Africa under Henry M. Stanley, Mr. Bennett decided to send out, at his own expense, an expedition to at- tempt to reach the Nordi Pole by way of Behring- Straits, Lieutenant DeLonor became '.nterested in the undertakino-, and the Pandora, owned by Captain Allan Young, was se- lected and bought as a suitable vessel to convey the ex- plorers. The Pandora was built in Ensfland in 1862. She was a bark-rigged steam yacht of 420 tons burden, with an engine of 200 horse-power, and a wide spread of canvas. She was strongly constructed, and had seen considerable service in the northern seas. In 1873 she conveyed her owner to die Arc- tic regions for the purpose of searching for records of Sir John Franklin's expedition; and in 1876 Captain Young cru seel in her about the northern part of Baffin Bay — having be.jn deputed by the English Admiralty to search for Captain Nare's expedition. By special act of Congress the vessel was allowed to sail under American colors, to assume a new name — the Jeannette — and to be navigated by officers of the United States Navy, (162) UNFORTUNATE EXPEDITION OF THE JEANNE1TF. 163 with all the rigius and privileg-es of a government vessel. The Secretary of the Navy was authorized to accept and take charge of the ship for the use of the proposed expedi- tion, and to use any material on hand in fitting her for the vovage; but upon condition that "the department should not be subjected to any ex- pense on account thereof. The Jeannette was taken from Havre, in France, through the Straits of Magellan 'o San Francisco, by Lieutenant DeLong, with Lieutenant Dan- enhower as navigating officer, and there delivered to the na- val authorities at Mare Island. After a thorough examination it was deemed advisable, on account of the hazardous na- ture of the contemplated voy- age, that her capacity to resist the pressure of the ice should be increased. The officers and crew of the Jeannette were as follnw^s : Lieutenant George W. DeLong, U. S. N., Commander. Lieutenant Charles W. Chipp, U. S. N., Executive; officer. Lieutenant John W. Danenhower, U. S. N., Navigator. George W. Melville, Chief Engineer. J. M. Ambler, Surgeon. Jerome J. Collins, Meteorologist. Raymond L. Newcomb, Naturalist. William M. Dunbar, Ice Pilot. James H. Bardett, First- dass Fireman. John Cole, Boatswain. Walter Lee, Ma- diinist. Alfred Sweetman, Carpenter. George Lauderback, Walter Sharvell, Firemen. George W. Boyd, Ad'^lf Dressier, Hans H. Erickson, Carl A.Gortz, Nelse Iverson, Peter E. Johnson, George H. Ku(;hne, Henry H. Kaack, Herbert W. Leach, F'rank Mansen, Wm. F. C. Nindemann, Louis J Noros, Edward Star, Henry D. Warren, Henry Wilson, Seamen. LIEUTENANT GEO. VV. DeLONG. 5't'M i ":*i-il i64 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. ?!l Ah Sam and Charles Tong Sing (Chinese), Cook and Cabin Stewards. Lieutenants DeLong and Chipp were officers of the United States steamer Juniata on her northern cruise in search of the crew of the lost Polaris. Mr. Melville was engineer of the steamer Tigress when she went north on the same errand. All of the crew were volunteers, selected with great care from many applicants. Nindemann was a member of the Polaris ice-drift party. The Jeannette proceeded direct to Ounalaska, one of tlie Aleutian Islands, and anchored in the harbor of Illiouliouk, August 2d. Additional stores and supplies of coal and fur from the storehouses of the company were taken on board. On the 6th of August the Jeannette resumed her course, and on the 12th of August anchored opposite the little set- tlement and blockhouse known by Americans as St. Michael's, Alaska, and by Russians as Michaelovski. A drove of about forty trained dogs, three dog-sleds, and fur clothing were taken on board ship, and two native Alaskans, named Ancciuin and Alexei, were hired to accompany the expedition as doer drivers and hunters. Alexei was a married man, and both could speak a little English. On the 1 8th of August the schooner Fanny A. Hyde, con- veying coal and extra stores for the expedition, arrived from San P>ancisco, and on the evening of the 21st both vessels resumed the voyage northward. On the 25th the Jeannette arrived at the St. Lawrence Bay, East Siberia, some thirty miles south of East Cape, where DeLong learned from the natives that a steamer, supposed to be the Vega, had gone south. After rounding East Cape, Lieutenant DeLong touched at Cape Serdze, on the northeast coast of Siberia, and left his last letter home. It was dated August 29th, and reacl/^d Mrs. DeLong over a year afterward. On the 29th DeLong attempted to land at the Cape, iat. 6']'^ 12' north, but found so much ice moving about as to make this impossible. On the 30th Lieutenant Chipp, accompanied by Dunbar, Collins and the native Alexei, landed and learned through Alexei from an old squaw, tha* th--": steamer had win- tered on the east of Koliutchin P.iy; and on ^.he 31st the same party, together with Master Darn bower, at last made sure by a landing on the ba\ that tlic */eg 1 hau certainly UNFORTUNATE EXPEDITION OF THE JEANNETTE. 165 wintered there and gone soutn. Swedish, Danish and Rus- sian buttons found in the hut on shore, and traded for by Chipp foi' l^is vest buttons as cash, were proofs enough of the Yea's visit, k was i;i h 1 ' i\\ *!! II >' ALONE IN THE ICE. diminished, although the steam-pump had to be continually kept to work, pumping out 250 gallons an hour. March ist Lieutenant Danenhower had the sixth operation on his eye performed, with the surgeon's statement that others would probably be necessary at short int :'rvalr, ; he still kept his health and spirits. The ship had again drifted northwest, her position being determined by Chipp on the 6th to be lat, 72° 12' N., long. 175° 30' W. ; by the I3tb the drift was again thirty-diree miles north and 55° W., and by the 27th fourteen miles farther to north and 63° W. DeLong thought that he was extremely fortunate in lying I'i, UNFORTUNATE EXPEDITION OF THE JEANNETfE. 167 SO lonq^ without serious disturbance. The upper part of the propeller frame had been uncovered by digging- away the ice under the stern, and no sign of any damage was apparent there. The ice also had been dug away under the bows to a point on the stem where the draught would be six and one- half feet, at which depth diligent search could detect no injury to the bow, and DeLong came more than ever to the correct opinion that the ship's fore-foot was the seat of the damage. Unhappily at midnight, after the digging, the pressure of the water underneath was too much for the thin layer of remain- ino- ice, and holes were broken through sufficient to flood the lar^e pit under the bow. At the same time great confused masses were piled up thirty and forty feet in height, and Sharvell, one of the crew, reported that he saw, about five miles northwest of the ship, ice piled up as high as the mast- head; he thought the destruction of the ship by its reaching that mountain of ice, or by that mountain of ice reaching her, merely a question of time. On the 24th and 25tli eight times as much water as before had come into the fire-room ; no greater amount seemed to come in forward, but it was neces- sary to keep the steam-cutter's engine going nearly all the time aft. It was impossible to discover what could have gone under the ship to affect the leak in this way. The hopes of release for the ship from her icy cradle seemed well grounded by the thermometer reading ^,7°, with a fall of rain on the first day of June. Fires were discontinued in the cabin and berth-deck, and the record could be made that there was a gradual resuming of ship-shape proportions to be ready for a start northward and eastward, or northward and westward, whichever the ice and winds would permit; and DeLong had been again hoping strongly day after day for some indication of a coming liberation. The decks were rapidly clearing, and he thought he was surely approaching the lime when nothing would remain but to hanqf the rudder and make sail for some satisfactory result of the cruise. From the first day of the month to the longest of the year, fogs, snows and gales were almost the daily log entry. The drift, :ontrary to all expectation, had been generally to the south- east. For more than nine months the ship had been dri\'en here and there at the will of the winds. On the 30th her position was 72° 19' 41" N., 178° 27' 30" F., fifty miles south, 9° E. of her place on the first. She was heeling 4° to star- ^-=:h 'I !-l ;.* * 111! ^i j.i. ,;r "K- 1 68 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. board (3° all winter), and her doubling' on that side was about four inches above the water. From 'the crow's nest it could be seen that she was in tlu; centre of an ict;-islancl. a laiu; of water in some places a quarter of a mile wide surrouihlimr her at the distance of about a mile. Much effort hail l)(:en made to liberate the screw without success. The drift on that day was only one mile. The journal of July 8th makes special reference to the thickness of the lloes around and underneath the Jeannctte. It recites the facts, that "in September, 1879, after ramming ARCTIC BIRDS-GULLS. the ship through forty miles of leads, she was pushed into a crevice between two heavy floes subsequently found to be thirteen feet thick ; a depth caused by the overriding and uniting of one floe with another by regelation under pressure. When she was pushed out into open water November follow- ing she was afloat, but the next day iced in." By January 17th, 1880, the ice had a thickness of four feet around the vessel, later measurements being rendered impossible by the confused massing which took place two days afterward. As the leak had now almost subsided more firmly and correcdy, DeLong believed that he was buoyed up by a floe extending UNFOKIUNATK liXPEPmON OF THE JEANNKTTE. 169 (Jown and iiiulcr tlic keel. "Let us hope," he wrote, "that oni; of these days tlie mass will break up and let us down to our ix'arinirs." How sad these bearings were to prove ! The forefoot was irretrievably wrenched. The ship must sink im- mediately on the "breaking up." During the remainder of the month of July and throughout August the monotonous Record of the previous months of routine duty on board ship, and of drift with no release from the ice, remained with scarcely a variation from day to day. September ist the ship at Uv.t was on an even keel, and this had occurred very quietly and without shock ; one or two large chunks of ice rose to the surface and then all was still. The ship was yet immovable, her keel and forefoot being held in the cradles. After sawing under the forefoot five or six feet, in the hope of getting once more properly afloat, it was found that more wa*;er came in, and the sawin; must be arrested. Before the close of the month the idea of open water was abandoned, and preparations made for a second winter in the pack. The first break of the monotony came in May, i(S8i. On the 1 6th, Ice-Master Dunbar called Chipp to look at Land, clearly enough an island, bearing, by DeLong's quickly made observations, S. 78° 45' (magnetic), N. ^2^'' 15' W. true — the first land to greet the e)e since March 24th, 1880, fourteen months before. What it had to do in the economy of nature standing desolate among the icy wastes was not the cpies- tion ; it might be the spot to which the ducks and geese had be'^n Hying, and if the ship could get some of them for a change, what a treat! "Fourteen months without anything to look at but ice and sky, and twenty months drifting in the pack will make a little mass of volcanic rock like our island as pleasing to the eye as an oasis in the desert." On the following day observations placed the ship in lat. 76° 43' 38", long. E. 161° 42' 30"; the rocky cliffs of the island appeared with a snow-covered slope, the highest and farther corner seeming to be a volcano top. The temperature noted was maximum 11° 5', minimum 5° 5'. The Jeannette drifted past on the north side ; the ice was so broken, and the pack run- ning so rapidly that DeLong did not think it prudent to make an attempt to land. May 24th, the pleasing sight was renewed, more land was ahead, and the ice very slack, with many large lanes of water ■f % : ' I -f'-k V ■< 170 ARCriC EXPLORATIONS. varying in length from an eighth of a mile to throe miles, rind in wicUh from twenty to one hundred feet. 'Hu; lanes were very tantalizing ; they seemed to be within a radius of iWe miles, but the islands were from thjrty to forty miles off, nnd from that five miles radius to them, the ice was as close and compact as ever. On the 31st, estimating the distance: to b; but fifteen or twenty miles, I'Jigineer Melville, in coiiij)any with Dunbar and Nindemann, and three other seamen, set out from the ship with a fifteen-dog team to visit this second island. They landed on it June 3d, and took possession for th'} United States, naming it Henrietta — the name of a sister of Mr, Bennett; a cairn was built and a record was placiid within it, and a limited examination made of twelve hours. It was found to be a desolate rock, surrounded by a snow cap which feeds several glaciers on its east face. Within the inaccessible cliffs, nesting clovekies were the only signs of life. To reach the land, the party left their boat and sup- plies, and carrying only one day's provisions and their instru- ments went through the frightful ice mass at the risk of life, draeoinir the doLis, which, throutrh fear, refused to follow their human leaclers. Mr. Dunbar returned badly affected hy snow-blindness; Chipp, Newcomb, Dunbar, and Alexei were now on the sick-list, on which Surgeon Ambler had kept DeLong also for several days, in consequence of a severe wound in his head received incidentally from a fan of the windmill. A ofeneral order was made out fj-ivin^- the names and positions of the two islands, Jeannette Island, hit. 76° 47', long. E. 158° 56', approximate; Henrietta Island, lat. 77° 8', long. E. 157° 43'. On the very day last named, the ice around the ship was broken down in immense masses, the whole pack being alive, and had the ship been within one of the fast-cJosiiii^ leads she would have been ground to powder. Embedded in a small Island of ice, she was as yet protected from the direct crushing on her sides, but felt a conUnual hammering and thumping of the ice under her bottom. On the 1 2th of June, at midnight, in a few moments' time, she was set free by the split of the floe on a line with her keel, and suddenly righting, started all hands from their beds to the deck. By 9 a. m. the ice had commenced comini^ in on her side ; a heavy floe was hauled ahead into a hole where it was supposed the ice coming together would impinge on UNFOKTUNATK KXPEDITION OF THK JP^ANNETFE. 171 itself instead of on the ship. The pressurr was very hoavy, ;iii(l <^d\'c forth a hissinir, criinchinj:^ soiurI, and at 3.40 r. m. the ice was report(;d comini;- tlirous^^h the starboard coal bunkers. At four o'clock she was lyintj perfectly (juiet, but her bows were thrown up so hij^h in the air, that lookint]f down through the water the injury to her for(;foot made January 19th, iSSo, could be seen. Melville went on the tloetotakcher phot()_L;raph. but on return- \n. >^ w °W Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STRiET WiBSTIR.N.Y. MSIO (716) •72-4S03 % o^ /, ^^ ^ I < I: ti :4 If: ^ii 172 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. necessary to prevent scurvy on their march, Seaman Starr waded into the forward store-room at the risk of his Hfe. When the order was given for all hands to leave the ship at about eleven at night, her water-ways had been broken in, the iron-work around the smoke-pipe buckled up, the rivets sheared off, and the smoke-stack left supported only by the guys. Three boats were lowered, the first and the second cutter, and the first whale-boat; and the ship's party of thirty- three made their camp on the floe in six tents, but within an hour were compelled to move still farther from its edge by the breaking up of the floe in their camp. At 4 A. M., June 13th, the cry of the watch was heard, *' There she goes; hurry up and look, the last sight you will have of the old Jeannette!" While the ice had held to- gether, it had held her broken timbers. When it opened— with her colors flying at the masthead — she sank in thirty- eight fathoms of water, stripping her yards upwards as she passed through the floe. At 3 a. m. her smoke-pipe top was nearly awash ; the main topmast first fell by the board to starboard, then the fore topmast, and last of all the mainmast. The siiip before sinking had heeled to starboard about 30°, and the entire starboard side of the spar deck was sub- merged, the rail being under water, and the water-line reached to the hatch-coamings before the ship had been abandoned. The next morning, a visit to the place where she was last seen showed nothing more than a signal chest and a cabin-chair with some smaller articles afloat. This happened in lat. yy" 14' 57" N. ; long. 154° 58' 45" E. Daylight found the party encamped on the ice, about four hundred yards from where the ship went down. The day was spent in arranging the effects and in gaining rest, which was very much needed. Many of the crew were incapaci- tated for active work by reason of severe cramps, caused by tin-poisoning from tomato cans. Among the sick were Lieu- tenant Chipp, Kuehne, the Indian Alexei, Lauderback, and the cabin steward. The doctor recommended delay until the sick party should have recovered ; but the time was not wasted, and the rest of the crew began the work of dividing the clothing, and stow- ing the sleds and boats. There were as provisions 3,500 pounds of pemmican in tinned canisters of 45 pounds weight each; about 1,500 pounds of hard bread, and more UNKOKTUNATK EXPEDITION OF THE JEANNEITE. 173 tea than was needed ; also some canned turkey and canned chicken, but these were disposed of in the first camp. Be- sides these there was a large quantity of Liebig's extract, a most important element in the diet of the crew ; a large quan- tity of alcohol, which was intended to serve as fuel for cook- ing during the retreat ; plenty of ammunition, and a good equipment of rifles. The provisions were stowed on five sleds, each having a tier of alcohol in the middle, and on either side a tier of pemmican canisters. Another sled was loaded with bread and a limited quantity of sugar and coffee, There were three boats mounted upon ship-made sleds, each of which consisted of two oak runners, shod with whale- bone. The grand total weight of boats, sleds, and provisions was about 15,500 pounds. To draw these, the party had a working force, when the retreat commenced, of tv ^nty-two men ; and the dogs were employed, with two light sleds, to drag a large amount of stores, that the party had in excess to those permanently stowed upon the larger sleds. Each man had a knapsack stowed away in the boats ; each knap- sack contained one change of underclothing, one package of matches, one plug of tobacco, one spare pair of snow-goggles, ard one spare pair of moccasins. On the 17th day of June, at 6 p. m., the order was given to break camp. The order was obeyed with enthusiasm, and the drag-rope of the first cutter was immediately manned. At the end of the first week the captain found by observation that the drift of the ice had more than neutralized the way covered by his advance, and that in fact he had lost twenty- seven miles by the drift to the northwest in excess to his march to the south. The progress of the party toward the land was very slow, but finally glaciers and water-courses became visible. On the 24th of July the party reached a point not more than two miles distant from the land, but the men were so exhausted that they had to camp. Next morn- ing it was found that they had drifted at least three miles to the southward, and along the east side of the island. On the 27th day of July an island was reached composed of trap- rock and a lava-like soil, and on the 28th a landing was made on the new discovery. Captain DeLong mustered every- body on the island, unfurled a silk flag, took possession of the island in the name of the President of the United States, and called it Bennett Island. The .south cape was named I il >}il M 'm i I ! ; ''; if!'. (174) !B UNFORTUNATE EXPEDITION OF THE JEANNETTE. 175 Cape Emma, after the captain's wife, and was in lat. 70° 38' north, long. 1 48° 20' east. The ship's company now encamped for several days, need- incr i-est and change of diet. Their first surfeit on the numerous birds readily knocked down brought some sick- nesir", compelling a return to pemmican. Du: bar and the two Indians explored the east side of the island, finding there several grassy valleys ; Lieutenant Chipp and Mr. Collins explored the south and west sides ; a box of geological speci- mens was obtained and brought home by Lieutenant Danen- hovver. Dr. Ambler obtained amethysts, opals, and petrifac- tions; tidal observations were made, the greatest rise and fall noted being about three feet. The party left the island August 6th, and made fair progress until the 20th, when, after drifting along the north coast of Thadeoffsky Island, they were imprisoned nearly ten days, after which they found themselves in navigable water, and rounded the south point of the island. The three boats and their several occupants were, the first cutter, holding Captain DeLong, Surgeon Ambler, Mr. Collins, and eleven of the crew, including Ah Sam, the cook, and the Indian, Alexei ; the second cutter, with Lieutenant Chipp, Ice-Pilot Dunbar, and six of the crew ; and the whale- boat. Engineer Melville commanding, Lieutenant Danen- hower (invalid), and eight of the crew, including the Chinese steward, and the Indian, Aneguin. On the loth the land of the Asiatic coast was in sight, estimated to be twenty miles westward ; and on the 11 th a landing was made and parties sent out hunting. An old de- serted hut was found, and human footprints made by a civil- ized boot. L-ieutenant Chipp and some of his sailors visited Melville's camp, and reported that they had had a very rough experience. September 12th, the three boats left Semenovski Island on which the party had camped, at about 8 a. m., and remained in company till noon. A gale was commencing from the northeast, which by 7 p. m. forced all hands in the whale-boat to be pumping or baling out water. The course was south- southwest, true. Captain DeLong was about 500 yards dis- tant from Melville, and Chipp 700 from DeLong. The gale increasing, both of these last were lost sight of by the whale- boat ; the first cutter destined to land her party and make . 15 III .1.' ':'H' ft'l 176 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. the sad experience of their intense suffering to death by cold and starvation ; the second cutter to leave no record, but the blank to be filled by the reasonable supposition of her beiiiLj swamped by the sea ; and the whale-boat to he saved only by ANNEXATION OF BFNNfc/lT ISLAND. the successful use of a drag or sea-anchor, and the incessant baling by almost exhausted men. The course of the party in this boat will be first traced. .Engineer Melville was in command, but relied on the profes- sional ability of Lieutenant Danenhower, still on the sick-list. UNFORTUNATE EXPEDITION OF THE JEANNETTE. m m I by cold , but the er beiivj; I only by I incessant it traced, je profes- sick-iist. The pocket prismatic compass, useful on shor(^ where it could be levelled and the needle come to rest, was now unavailable. Steering was by the sun or the moon. Lieutenant Danen- hower carried the watch and chart, and could shape the course of the boat by the bearings of die sun at this equinoctial period, September 15th, one of the eastern mouths of the Lena was entered, and, by the assistance of a Tungus pilot, the party pushed up the river, and on the 26tli reached a small village, in which lived a Siberian exile, Kopelloiif, who proved very useful in opening the way to intercourse by teaching the Lieutenant Russian phrases. They were de- tained at this place waiting for the growth of the ice for sled- ding, and while another Russian exile, Koosmah Gerrymahoff, with the chief of the village, went forward to Bulun to inform the Russian authorities of th^ir arrival. On the 17th of October, Danenhowcr began his search with a dog-team, to explore the coasts for the missing boats, but was unable, from the condition of the ice, to proceed far in any direction, and returned without results. On the 29th the two messengers returned, bringing the news that on their way back they had met natives with deer- sleds, wiio had Nindemann and Noros, of DeLong's party, conducting them to Bulun. Tie two seamen had written a note, stating that the captain's party were starving, and needed immediate assistance. Koosmah communicate 1 this note to Engineer Melville, who immediately started with a native and dog-team to find the men, learn the position of the captain's party, and carry food to them. Danenhower was ordered to take charge of the party, and get them as soon as possible to Bulun. November ist, the Bulun commandant brought to him a good supply of bread, deer-meat, and tea, and a document addressed by Noros and Nindemann to the American Minister at St. Petersburg; this the Lieutenant forwarded by Seaman Bartlett to Melville, and as soon as possible himself started forward, overtaking Melville at the first deer station. He received from him orders to go for- ward to Yakutsk, which he reached December 17th, 1881. At Yakutsk Melville received the first despatch from the Secretary of the Navy, ordering him to send the sick and frozen to a milder cliniate ; Lieutenant Danenhower's party went forward, therefore, to Irkoutsk. Here, being advised by the Russian oculist that his right eye would be well in a la m 1 H' 4 I! i !.«' m 178 ARCTIC KXPr.ORATIONS. few da)s, he telegraphed to the department, throu-Ii the American Legation at St. Petersburg, asking permission to iiire a steamer, and st-arcii for Lieutenant Ciiipp's party diir ing the spring and summer; also for two line oflicers to assist. He received a reply through the Legation that two officers would be sent. The entire party of men of which he had charge volunteered to remain for the search, six of them being in excellent condition ; February 5th, however, hv. re- ceived further orders from the Navy Department tiuii, ouiiiM to his condition of health, the order to remain and search for survivors of th'j Jeannette was revoked. The oculist allow- ing him to start on the 13th of March, the lieutenant went SCENE IN LAPLAND— TRAPPING GAME. forward with his men, except Seaman Noros, whom he had been ordered by a subsequent telegram to permit to accom- pany Mr. J, P. Jackson, a special messenger sent out by Mr. Bennett to renew search on the Lena delta. Lieutenant Danenhower, Mr. Newcomb, Cole, and the Chinese arrived in New York city on June ist. The rest of the whale-boat crew, except the Indian. Aneguin, who died of smallpox in Russia, and Nindemann and Noros, of DeLong's party, arrived in the United States pn.vious to the 12th of February, 1882. Cole was already mentally affected, and be- came an inmate of the Government Asylum for the Insane at Washington, D. C. The following sad history is derived from the records of UNFORTUNA'n<: F.XPEDITION OF THE JKANNEITE. 179 Commander DeLong, up to his last entries of October 30tli, and from the reports of Engineer Melville and Lieutenant IXinenhovver, their testimony before the Naval Court of In- quiry, and that of the seamen, Nindemann, Noros, and Bart- lett ; the first two dl' these three being the only ones saved from this boat. The captain's brief journals of September, 1881, record: •'At 9 r. M. September 12th, lost sight of whale-boat ahead; N IN THB LBNA DBLTA, OCTOBEK, 1881. LIBOrnNANT C. W. UULONG. DR. J. M. AMDLER. J. J. COLLINS. W. LBB. A. CORTZ. A. DRESSLER. H. II. BRICKSON. G. W, COYD. N. IVEKSON. H. H. KAACK. ALBXBI. AH SAM. m 4 iii t :: 'i h :-' r ni 1 86 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. Melville searched the coast line west to the deserted villacre of Chancer, thence across the peninsula, down the river Alanack to the ocean ; along the coast, in and out of all the bays to the northwest point of the Delta, and thence along the north coast; completing the coast-wise search for the second cutter by a still further search to the river Jana. The sledging season was now at an end. He was detained on the mountains by the melting of the snows, but reached Yakutsk June 8th. Hearing here that Lieutenant Harber had found it impossible to charter at fair rates the expected steamer for the Lena, and was making other preparations for his summer search, but prevented from meeting him, Melville sent Bartlett to report for duty under the lieutenant, and sent with him a track chart of the search already made on the Delta. From Irkutsk Melville began his home jour- ney with Nindemann and Noros, arriving in New York Sep- tember 13th, 1882. The bodies of Captain DeLong and his unfortunate com- panions were brought to the United States for permanent burial by Lieutenant Harber and Master Schuetze of the United States Navy. CHAPTER XIV. UNFORTUNATE EXPEDITION OF THE JEANNETTE. Linate com- rbe Events of the Jeannette Expedition Descril)ecl by Ciiief-Engineer Melville — A Drift of Twenty-two Months in the Ice-Pack — The Melville Canp.i — Three New Islands dis- covered — Henrietta Island — The Destruction of the Jeannette — The Dogs Abandoned —The Retreat — Drifted to the Northwest— Bennett Island — The Lena River Readied— Ncaring the Siberian Coast — Without Drinking- Water for Five Days — At the Delta of the Lena — Mountains in Sight — Mr. Melville Effects a Landing — Frozen Legs and Feet —On Half-Rations — The First Yakut Seen — Speaking by Signs — Bulunga! Bulunga!— Jamavialock — Putrid Goose as a Delicacy — The Hut of the Starosta at Jamavialock — Kusina — First News of DeLong and His Party — Melville in Search of DeLoiig — Noros and Nindemann Found — Their Story— Melville starts from Burulak — On the Trail of the Seamen — On the West Bank of the Lena. Mr. Melville, in conversation with the writer, gave a most ^rapiiic account of many of the events in the history of the disastrous Jeannette expedition. Mr. Melville's narrative is so full of important detail, and contains so much that is new to even the readers of Arctic travel and adventure, that it cannot fail to be of the greatest interest. A few points only, however, can be touched upon. The great Arctic explorer, during an interview, spoke especially of the subject of ice navigation and of the long drift o/ the Jeannette of twenty-two months in the ice-pack. "By our constant soundings and experiments in the ice," said Mr. Melville, "we had made a perfect survey of the bot- tom of the Arctic Ocean for a distance of 1,300 miles. This peculiarity of the drift was demonstrated — tli it the ice to the northwest of us was always fast, and whiK"; we drifted along from the southeast in a northwesterly direction, the ice to the south apparently being in motion all the time, the track chart of the crew showing a canal of water in which the ship ap- peared to drift back and forth. This was called the Melville Canal. This drift demonstrated that whenever we drove to tlie south of the usual line the water shoaled to from twenty to thirty-two fathoms, while at one time when the drift took the ship in a northerly cant the lead line dropped into a (187) tSS AUCTK" KXri.OUATIONS. sounding of eighty-two fathoms. The drcdgings showed spcci- mens of extinct bivalves, besides star fisli and other incrustacc a\ Another peculiarity shown was that winter or summer the ice of the- Arctic Ocean is never at rest, always in motion — crowd- ing, grinding, jamming, telescoping, rafting together, and for this reason it is necessary in making attempts to /each tin- North Pole to have the land to hold on to. Wh(*rever cnik'- ditions have gone islands have always been found to ilu; northward. 'Fhc Jeannette discoven^d three new islands, and during the drift in the darkness of the winter night and the dense fogs of t\vi summer, when often wc could not see a mile from the ship, in those 1,300 miles to the northwest we may have passed numerous unseen islands. It is therefore necessary in approaching the Pole to make depots of sup- plies eitluM- on die maiii land or on outlying islands wlierc they may be found again. l*"or instance, one little item of our experience in the drift will show the importance of this. After we were frozen in in September we remained in tlic pack until the latter part of October, and we had constructed a canvas house on the ice, by the ship's side, for the men to work in. We broke out in a hurry, and barely had time to gather our instruments, boats, sleds and dogs into the ship, when we drifted off about two miles down a narrow lane of water. About the same time Alexei had had a shot at a hear, and was obliged to leave it on the ice. After we had drifted about two miles, as I have stated, a party was sent back to find the animal. Owmg to the crowding and jamming of the ice, the bear or canvas house could not be found until about a year or a year and a half afterwards, when Iniquin, the In- dian hunter, was out one day and ran across what he termed a * two-man house.' He was very much alarmed and lied back to the ship, first marking the spot by setting his spear in the ice and tying his hunting-jacket and cap to the top of it. The next day Lieutenant Chip was sent out with a sled and he found it to be the old structure. We had been all over the drift every day, but had not come across it until then, which shows how difficult it is to make a cache in the ice and ever fine it again. For this reason a system of colonies and depots of supplies can only apply where there is land to hold on by. " While drifting by Jeannette Island and coming close to Henrietta Island, I was sent with one of the other officers of UNKORIUNATK KXPEDmoN OK 1111': JKANNK'm*:. I«9 the ship, lour men, sixteen do^s and t<^n days' provisions, to make a landing on tlie latter island. W(; w<;re driftini^ rai)idly by, the estimated distance beintr from sixteen to twenty-f'ivc miles. We had supplies for ten days, but we accomplish(rd the march to and from in less than six days, and during the whole of this trip the ice was so much in motion thai at times the dog trains would be on one side of the moving ice-pack and the mv.n on the other. We continued in this way until within three or four miles of the island, when we found it would he impossible to effect a landing and carry the whole of the camp ecjuipment, which was then hauled on to a floe berg, where we erected an oar and lashed a jacket and hat to it to mark the place. Then with the dogs, navigating instru- ments, guns and one day's provisions we made a dash for the island. The dogs refused to follow, and I had to seize the leader by the neck and drag the team through the moving ice-pack, thus succeeding in effecting a landing, the boat drift- ing off in a northwesterly direction. I made a rapid running survey of the northeastern end of the island, remaining there twelve or sixteen hours. From the high lands of Henrietta Island the ship could be seen moving off in the distance. I secured compass bearings of her and pushed off in that di- rection, picking up the boat and equipment on our return, and from the time we left until we got back to the ship, as before stated, estimated at from sixteen to twenty-five miles from the island, we never found one of the sled tracks to form our retreat upon. "It was shortly after drifting by this island," continued Mr. Melville, " that the floe became so broken as to cause ihe de- struction of the ship. On the night of the i ith-i 2th of June, at midnight, it was my turn of duty to take the meteorological observation at the observatory, which had been erected on the ice about 300 yards from the port side of the ship. The ice had been crowding and jamming, caused by the floe in- fringing on the island, and we all felt that it was probable that the floe piece in which the ship had been embedded for months was going to pieces, knowing that when that did happen, from the thickness of the ice and its movement, the destruction of the Jeannette was inevitable. As I was passing over the gang plank a shock caused me to pause, and as I stood look- ing down over the side of the ship, I saw a lane of water opening and the ship began to oscillate from port to star- ! I'; ri ii-i •n\i Mk 190 ARCTIC EXPLORA'nONS. board, and finally floated upright. The floe on the port side drifted silently away to a distance of 250 or 300 yards. The freeing and righting of the ship started everybody, and all hands were up in an instant. A boat was lowered, and the instruments from the observatory ar.d various small articles which had been left on the ice were gotten on board, and the dogs ferried from the receding floe to that on the starboard side, to which the ship was now made fast. The Esquimau dogs won't take to the water if they cap help it, unlike the Polar bears, who take to it as naturally as fish. One of the Kamtschatkan dogs, which stood with us to the bitter end, was called ' Kasmatka.' He had made friends with one of the seamen, Grerty, and when he saw his friend on the opposite floe he waded in and swam the gap. The rest dipped their feet in the water and backed out, yelping and howling, feeling that they were abandoned and about to drift off from their human protectors. When all was snug, the ship was hauled into a rticess like a dock or Irnette. It was manifest to the whole crew that if the ice came together, as Mr. Dunbar, the ice-pilot, said, 'we'd either go under or on top.' By two or three o'clock all was quiet and the people had turned in, but before six in the morninij of the 12th, the ice was ciittincr or grinding on the port side to such an extent that we all turned out. The ice nipped and squeezed the vessel many times, so as to force the oakum and pitch up out of the decks, the deck beams rowing up so as to open the seams, and upon the sud- den relieving of the pressure the decks would spring back with such force as to eject half the water from a bucket which was on the deck amidships. This continued during the day, nip- ping and crowding, at times remaining quiet, until 3 p. m., when the ice had forced itself underneath the forepart of the ship and threw the bows well up out of the ice, unfortunately de- presshig the stern. The ice beneath seemed to hold her by the keel and canted her to starboard, also depressing the stern and caused the ice to pile up on the starboard quarter. At this time the ice ceased crowding and we could see the dam- age done to - the forepart; two scarfs had been pushed out of place. DeLong ordered me to get out the camera to take a photbgraph of the ship as she lay, we still having hopes that the ice would remain quiet and that all the damage was done that would be, and still hoping to free the ship. I exposed a plate about 4 p. m., and was in the dark room de- UNFORTUNATE EXPEDITION OF THE JEANNETTE. 191 veloping it when the ice commenced to charj^e again. Tb<^ sliip evidently was going to pieces. The order was passed for all hands to abandon the ship. At this time we had seven or more on the sick-list, including Lieutenant Chip, Mr. Dannen- hower, Mr. Newcomb, the taxidermist, Alcxei, seamen Cooney» Stewart, Charlie Tong Sing, and fireman Lauderback and others. DeLong took command of the deck, and, smoking his pipe on the bridge, quietly gave the orders to lower the boats, directing the few remaining officers on duty to see about getting out the sick, the provisions, clothing, arms and ammunition and all other equipments necessary for our retreat. "A regularly organized and systematic bill for the abandon- ment of the ship, in case of its destruction by the ice, had been prepared by DeLong before we entered the ice, and each officer was detailed to look after some particular part of the equipment. In case of the sickness of any officer his duty was to be performed by some other officer of the ship. As the ice kept crowding upon the poor old Jeannette she keeled over to the starboard, and, being raised out by the bows, careened over until her yards touched the ice. The smokestack was still standing, but the light iron work and stays commenced to sheer off by the rivets, and the snapping, banging and crashing of the timbers was like a thousand sledges at work on as many boilers. Before the water com- menced to rise on the ship nearly all the sick, provisions and necessary equipment had been put on the ice. Some of the people who were not assigned to duty had littered the cabin with personal effects, some having had their suppers. De- Long, Dr. Ambler and myself, having been constantly on duty, had neglected to get supper or look after any of our effects. When the word came from the men in the engine room that the water was risinc: in the bilije we went below to get our clothing, which was always kept packed in knapsacks ready for emergency, each having also a pillow case of woollen dothing in addition. I secured my knapsack and threw it on the ice, but before I had time to return for the additional clothing the water rose through the ship, filling her to the water line. Up to this time the sides had not come in. The water-ways and decks had split open and the deck timbers were turning upwards, but still the ship had not made any water until apparently a mass of ice from below wa. pushed l.iM \" i m \ 192 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. Up and tore her keel out, carrying the garboard strakes with it. Arctic ships should have neither stern pieces, forefoot or keel extending outside of the planking or doubling. A false keel should be fitted, which, if pushed off by the ice, would not cause a leak. The ship would simply have no keel, tht keelson rising in the inside to give the requisite strength, h is a remarkable coincidence that in both the Jeannette and Polaris both had the forefoot pushed out and caused a con- stant pumping out for Jj4 years. In the Jeannette wt pumped night and day by hand, by steam or by windmill, all of which apparatus were constructed by the force on the ship during the eighteen months. "It was II p. M. of the 12th before DeLong ordered ever)- one to leave the ship. The ice had come in and crushed the vessel, but held it fast. The water had struck as high as the combings of the hatches. Everything necessary for the re- treat was on the ice, nothing had been forgotten. We had more clothing, arms, etc., placed on the ice than we could carry. The colors were run up to the mastheads, and after DeLong had made a thorough search to see thc.t no one was left on board, he was the last to leave her, issuing a general order that nobody should return on board of the wreck. That night we made our first camp on the ice. We pitched the tents, gathered the equipments and sleeping-bags together, as divided into five tents, and some time after midnight turned in. We had barely got to sleep when the floe began to break under us. In the meantime strict orders were given to watch for the breaking up of the floe. When it split, almost under the camp, all hands turned out in a hurry, to find the break transverse of the line of tents, two men barely escaping a cold bath as the ice parted beneath them. As it was the men in their sleeping-bags were dragged out of the water. The ice then commencing to shift, the camp was on one side, the boats and provisions were on the other drifting from us. These were hurried from the moving floe to the camp side, and in an hour we turned in again. At 4 a. m., at the calling out of the morning watch, the man of the watch in calling of the relief alarmed the camp by singing out: 'Turn out, fellows! If you want to see the last of the old Jeannette now's your time.' Some merely sat up in their tents and looked out, and others got up. The ice had completed its work. The ship was crushed by the ice, nearly the top from the bottom ; then, UNFORTUNATK FXrr,T>ITION OF TIIK JEANNEITE. 193 es with •foot or A false :, would :eel, tht- glh. It ■tte and i a con- ette we windmill, e on the 2d ever)' shed the fh as the • the re- Wehad lid carry. DeLong IS left on ral order k. That ;ched the [together, It turned to break to watch St under ;he break ng a cold men in The ice Ithe boats , These e, and in ig outol ' of the fellows ! iw's your out, and The ship )m ; then, casing off, the hull rapidly settled, the siiip righting as she went down, the yards taking the ice on the side stripping up the mast and breaking them as she passed, with a rattle, down out of our sight. "At six in the morning all hands turned out to visit the |)lace, and we found little if anything left but a signal chest, an old chair, a box of succotash which had been thrown on the ice, and the topgallant poles. The wood we gath(M-ed up and used for fuel in the camp. We now commenced to pre- pare the boats and sleds or our retreat. The sleds had to be relashed, new chocks or bolsters fitted under the bilges of the boats ; the bread had to be packed ; the wood removed from the alcohol cases (to reduce the weight). A sick-tent was organized and placed under the charge of the doctor. After a thorough organization had been effected, a general order was posted stating that we had commenced the line of retreat to the south, the objective point being the Lena Delta, which was five hundred miles distant in a bee line." Mr. Melville then gave a graphic account of the retreat over the ice-pack, and the terrible trials which beset the trav- ellers in their struggle to reach the first land. The line of march was marked by a line of flags, which were set up by DeLong and Dunbar in order to facilitate the more rapid advance of the sledding parties. "The commanding officer would locate himself upon a high hummock with a compass and flag. The latter was of black stuff, a yard square, and mounted upon a staff six feet high. The assistant v/ould advance a half mile or more, occasionally looking back to the leader, who would direct him to the right or left, according to the compass bearings. The assistant then sets up a flag, and the leader follows it up and takes his stand, the assistant advancing as before, the sledding master working up the sleds and boats and gathering in the flags as he mlvanced. The line of march had to be taken around hummocks, across the smooth places, DeLong and Dunbar invariably laying out the line through water sometimes up to the knees and hips, and across the roughnesses, never at any time having one mil of straight going, over which a horse could be driven, antl never advancing a single rod without cutting the way with axes, pickaxes and shovels, which we were obliged to carry with us. Before the first day's march we supposed that each party would be able to haul its own provision sled, this load e t-1 ■w 61 194 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. aggrcgalinqf looo pounds, and taking the boat upon a second advance. But owing to the snow, which was very deep, and in the summer time when the thermometer gets as higii as 35 or 40 degrees, became wet and soggy, this was impossible. There were eight pieces, and it required the whole force to traverse the distance thirteen times to move all forward ; in other words, with the exceptions of two small sleds, only one pfece of baggage was advanced at a time, and we had to travel thirteen miles to make one mile good. This continued for the first month of the march, but, of course, as the supply of provisions grew smaller, the labor was reduced, and the loads were reduced to five, but never below that number. Dur- ing the whole of this time the ice was drifting to the northwest. After having marched for fifteen or eighteen days, DeLong having had two or three good observations of the sun, it was discovered that we had lost twenty-four miles into the north- west, or, after marching for two weeks, we had found our- selves to the north. On his first observation DeLong did not think this could be possible, but two or three days afterwards, after working a summer, he called me to one side and told me he did not wish any of the people to know of it, but that we had lost twenty-four miles into the northwest, and that in case anything should happen it was only proper that I should know th • state of affairs. Dr. Ambler, who was passing, and seeing us in earnest conversation, the knowledge was also imparted to him. The sun does not always shine in the Arctic Ocean even in the summer. It may be shining above, but owing to the dense fogs which hang between the ice and it, the sun's face is not seen for weeks at a time. We plodded on in silence, not knowing how rapidly we were being drifted to the northward, but with the hope that, as we travelled across the pack, we might come to a place where we could launch the boats and escape, for this was our only hope; for when we set out we knew we had the grandest march before us on record. A week later we found we had made twenty- seven miles into the south and east, and had apparently stepped off the floe strip to another, which was to the south, and running to the southeast. DeLong told me to tell the crew of this. As we marched along I said : * Well, boys, we have made twenty-seven miles good into the southeast.' A cheer went up from one end to the other of the stragglers, and one of the men said : • Next week we'll make sixty miles/ UNFORTUNATE EXPEDITION OF THE JEANNEITE. IP5 "When the party approacliecl Bennett Island, which was the first land touched, the floe was so much broken that th(Mr labor was increased by being constantly obliged to build bricl<''es of ice, or to launch their boats and haul them out on the opposite side of the floe, or to make rafts of great floe pieces, putting the whole of the equipment upon it. In launching the boats it was necessary to take out all the load, as It was feared that unless this was done the boats' baclfs would be broken. The party reached Thadiouska Island after camping ten days on the ice-pack and coming through difficulties v'hich it was thought were impossible to surmount. When we attempted to land on Thadiouska Island," Mr. Mel- ville went on to say, " we had great dltficuky on account of the shoals caused by the erosion of the New Siberian Islands, of which this is one. The whole surface of the islands has the appearance of myriads of hay cocks. During the summer the snow is melted and washes the soil into the sea. The winter freezes the whole ; at the first of summer the earth is loosened and great masses go crumbling down into the sea; the pas- sage of the ice to the Arctic Ocean is also grinding away the earthy part of the islands. And so all the time, by the action of the elements and by the ice-pack, the whole chain of islands is being denuded of earth from the mouth of the Lena tiirough the new Siberia Islands, Bennett Island and Henrietta and Jeannette Islands. The great rivers of Siberia are carrying the silt from the south of Siberia, and are thus filling up the Arctic Ocean ; but this does not account for the great shallow sea to the northward of Siberia. We found all the way from the Lena Delta to the New Siberian Islands the remains of ancient forests embedded in the soft soil of tlie islands, which are being rapidly eroded away by the ice. Where Seimanoski war once one island, it is now three, the sea making a clean breach over it from east to west. We saw great masses of earth, hundreds of tons at a time, rolling down into the sea. "The mouth of the Lena River was once north of where the New Siberia Islands now are, and the rocky islets that now dot the way from the promontories from the mouth of the Lena are the only remains of what were once the earth- clad hills of the Lena Delta. The same effects are still going on in the Lena Delta itself. Were the conditions the same as at the mouths of the Mississippi or the Nile, in the tem- perate climate, the Delta would be advancing into the ocean ; 11! It ll . io6 AUCIir i:\l'I,r)kAll()\S. i't-. ■ k but the L'vcrlastiiii; ice k(-'c'|).s iDovini^^ down, rarryinj^^ away tho deposit niore rapiilly than tin; river tan inakc it, ami the ic,. clistril)ut<'.s it all over the Arctic Ocian. WC have loimd spixiniens of earth of all kinds three luindnd miles a\va\ from the coasts where the ice had hcvn (MnlKHlcled in the banks and carried it off. Some of this may come from northern islets, but we all know, who have observed tlif citrrents in the Arctic Dcean, that the ice and driftwood from the mouth of the RiviT Lena an: carried first to the wcstwanl, and north and west, and then to the south and west, and the windrows of wood on the eastern shore of Spit/.beri^en arc carried from the mouths of Siberian rivers, and it is Im natural to suppose that the ice follows the same general diitt as that of the wood. In the Lena Delta I have seen trunks of ancient trees, sixteen inches in diameter, protrudini; from the banks forty feet above the level of the river, and the earth is constantly tumbling down, exposing more timber em- bedded in the banks. "As soon as the whale-boat parted comjjany with the first and second cutter, it became evident that it would be neces- sary to heave to and set about making a drag or sea-anchor. the philosophy of which is that if the boat is brought arouml with the head to the sea, and the drag made so that it will remain immersed, it will keep the head of the boat to the s« a to receive the seas head on, the boat And tlrag gradually drivinir to the leeward, the dracf haviuLi' sufficient hold on the water to keep the boat's head to the sea ; but should the sea- anchor come home, or the line part and the boat broach to. it would roll over like a log. The drag, in this case, was made o( the tent-poles lashed together and a piece of hammock- cloth. We rounded to about nine o'clock that evening (Sep- tember 1 2th), and rode with the sea-anchor until the next evening at five o'clock, during which time the people were kept busy bailing to keep the boat free of water, and the drag was assisted by means of a steering-oar in keeping the head to the sea. Up to this time Jack Cole had acted as coxswain of the whale-boat, having the reputation of bcMUg one of the best fore-and-aft sailors out of New York, and having been one of the w^atch officers on Bennett's yacht during the famous sea-race of the I )auntless, but he commenced to show signs of weakness during the heavy weather of the preced- inyf two weeks. At this time I had to divide the watches in » il htn ,: V ) ■a Kt .i"t I i 'I I :'; •iijii 198 ARCriC EXPLORATIONS. .•il ■ steering the boat between the three seamen, Leach, Mauson, and Wilson. "After leaving Wassilli Island," said Chief Engineer Mel- ville, continuing, " the first sea that broke over the boat de- stroyed all the snow we had from which to make our drinkjna water, and from the time we left Seimonoffski Island until we got to the mouth of the Lena, five days, we were without drinking water. After the gale had abated on the evening of the 13th, the boat was put about, and our course laid to the southwest to Cape Barkin, the point to which I was ordered to conduct the boat in case of a separation. On the mornina of the 15th the boat grounded in shoal water off the Lena Delta, but so far from land that it was invisible. We thought there were traces of the loam of land to the southward. The young ice was making along the shore a quarter of an inch in thickness, impeding the progress of the boat. From our information of the Delta we were confident that we would find natives at the northeastern point. My instructions were that, if I struck the north coast, I was to proceed to the east to Barkin, and there get a pilot to conduct me into a branch ot the river and to the nearest Russian settlement ; and my in- structions were also to pay no attention to the others, in case of a separation, until I got to a place of safety, after which I was to pay attention to the rescue of the others. I worked to the east a.long the shore, every attempt to go south being foiled by the shoals, until toward evening, when it looked like another gale. I put the boat under easy sail and stood to the east, intending to go in that direction for twelve hours, and then to the south and west twelve hours, knowing that the east coast of the Delta ran north and south, and that the north coast at Cape Barkin ran east and west. I also knew that while three mouths discharged to the north, thirteen dis- charofed to the east, and that, failing to net to Barkin, the chances of my reaching a settlement were better on the east coast than to find one on the north without a pilot. Many persons have said I was lucky to ge: in on the east coasi, but it was on the score of judgment, not. luck, and I selected the course I did for the reasons I have given. "At six o'clock on the morning of the i6th, we put about and stood to the south and west, hoping to reach an east brancli, but we had had such a fresh breeze during the night, with a current to the eastward, that when I put about, hoping y UNFORTUNA'IE KXPI^Ul TION OF THE JEANM-riTE. 199 to make land, I found it took thirty-six hours to regain what I had run off in the twelve hours before. Finally, we raised mountains to the south, in the Bay of Borkhia, hut beinfT al- most certain of finding natives at some branch of the river, I stood to the south and west until I raised two low headlands. The men were almost crazy for water, and eagerly dipping it from the boat's sides declared it was fresh. I had educated myself to go without water during the Jeannette's drift of two years, drinking but two glasses of water between meals, de- pending upon the coffee at breakfast and dinner, and the tea at supper, and on the march I kept chewing a piece of wood to induce the flow of the saliva. When the men of the boat's crew appeared to be in extreme agony for a drink of water 1 had no feeling of thirst. To keep them quiet I ordered a pot of tea to be made of the water, when the salt became ver) apparent and it was rejected. I then told the men they could have all the water they wanted at the headlands we had just seen, and, as we could make out logs on the beach, we were all eager for a landing. There was a slight swell, and the boat broached to and nearly swamped, and it was with diffi- culty that we got her off, and kept the middle of the channel, and worked up into the river. "The question now arose in my mind whether to obey the orders I had received and go to Cape Barkin, or go on up the river. Peterman's chart, the only one I had, was dotted all over with marks indicatino- huts, and other information led us to suppose that the Delta was swarming with native life. Some urged that I should go to Barkin, and I finally said that if I did not effect a landing by noon I would turn back and go to Barkin, though loath, after the experiences of the last few days, to put to sea again. At noon we were about to gc about, but some one said that the river was as larcje as the Mississippi, and must be a main branch of the Lena. I only wanted some oood reason not to 00 to sea, and we went on up the river and effected a landing at an abantloned hut at evening. We were so cramped as to be barely able to walk, being frozen from the knees down. Two or three of the party who had been exempted from duty had rubbed their limbs with towels, but I and the majority of the working force had our feet and legs frozen so badly as to be unable to walk, and we had to creeo ashore. MoorinQ: the boat, we waded around m the icy water to increase the circulation and to ill ■11 W 200 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. 1:, * t! withdraw the frost from our hmbs. A fire was built in the hut, and aftcjr we had removed our foot-gear and went near the fire, the pain was excruciating, and we had lo withdraw. Water bhsters appeared from my knees to my toes until my Hmbs were in a condition as if they had been scalded, and the feet were swollen so that it was impossible to get my moccasins on without cutting them. " The next day, from the trend of the river, and from my study of our only chart, I believed it to be the main cast branch of the Lena, many landmarks, such as islands in the mid-channel, adding to the evidence. There was but one river on the chart that trended to the north and west o-i entering, and this particular branch trended from north ^y west to west-northwest, and never at any time to the south and west. We continued on until we came to a bold head- land, where there was a short bend and a long stretch of river due south, confirming us in the belief that wc; were in the main branch, and that we had turned the point which would lead us to where we could find natives within ten or twelve miles. I was entirely mistaken, however; I had entered an east branch, and the branch did trend to the north and west, but when I turned to go south I found I was still in the Delta. We camped at this headland, some of the party goi ;■ up to the highlands. This we called 'Mud Camp,' because of the oozy bed of the river, in which the majority of us slept. The next morning it was with difficulty that we got away, on account of the crippled condition in which we were. We stood to the south with a fresh breeze, the boat taking: in water. Cominof in sieht of two or three well-built huts on the west bank, 1 cO'Ucluded to haul out and rest and dry our clothes, and for this reason called it the ' Dry-out Camp,' From the evidence of the fish ends and trails it was clear that the natives had left but a few days, The next morning we stood to the south, intending to keep along the west bank of the river, but when the narrow branch expanded into a great bay I then made up my mind that 1 was still in the Delta. Proceeding to the south, on the dis- tant hills I raised several huts, which we eagerly watched for signs of life. I told the crew to work with a will and we would stop there for our dinner, but we found ourselves in a labyrinth of quicksands, sand-spits and shoals. There was plenty of water thinly laid on and very much spread out, the UNFORTUNATE KXrEDITION OF THE JEANNEITE. 20I land appearing in spots. It was impossible to nro a hundred yards without bringing up, but we at last effected a landing to the south and east of the village, watching for a sign of life — smoke, for instance — but we were too far away to go to it on foot or get the boat around. We ate our modicum of pemmican and prepared our tea, which we had carried in a bag, and which had been washed about in the salt water in the bottom of the boat. Up to the time of the separation of the boats the rations had been a pound of pemmican and a half pound of bread, but when the latter gave out the pemmican was increased to one and a half pounds per man per day. As soon as we parted from the others I put the men on half the former rations, or about three-quarters of a pound, which was equal to three cubic inches. *' Having had our dinner, we got ready to keep on by the west bank against the current, and were about to shove off when we saw three canoes and three men paddling to- wards us. We pulled towards them, when they showed signs of fear and a desire to scud by us. I beckoned to the natives to approach, but they kept in the distance shaking their heads. Two of them at length passed us, but one younger than the rest came alongside the whaleboat, crossing himself and dis- playing a religious medal which he wore at his neck. I directed one of the men to get out a piece of pemmican and offer it to him, and at the same time told another of the crew to look away, but when the cant)e was close enough to seize and hold it. He did so, and this alarmed the native very much, but I tried to soothe and reassure him by showing him the hatchets and various other articles in the boat. By this time the current had drifted us down to about where we had camped, and the other two natives had hauled out. We ac- cordingly landed, and I set up the tea-kettle, and then the others came up and joined us. They had been fishing at the place to which I was trying to get during the preceding day. None of us could understand their language, so we had re- course to signs. The sailors found an old goose, and fish and venison, all of which, excepting the venison, was decayed. We then began to form a vocabulary of the Yakut tongue, the natives soon understanding what we wanted, and readily telling us the names of objects which we pointed out. I sketched a reindeer, and the natives at once exclaimed 'olean/ and in this way we rapidly wrote down fifty or sixty 202 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. i-U ■«■) . I : 4 ; * m of their words. We drank our tea, and supposing they mlHit like some of our alcohol for a drink I put a tablespoonful in the tea for the natives. Thty took to it kindly, and one of them, who was called Theodore, wanted to take a drink from the demijohn, but I prevented him. Finally I took a knife, which one of the natives carried, and by signs asked liim where he had gotten It. He immediately began to imitate the motions of a blacksmith beating the blade into shape, and said, ' Bulunga ! Bulunga ! ' This turned out to be a Cossack setdement on the Lena, Eulun, and this was the first intima- tion I had that they knew of its whereabouts. I at once drew in my note-book a sketch of a village, putting two mosques in it. The Yakut rubbed out one of the mosques and attain exclaimed: 'Bulunga.' I then drew a picture of the whale- boat with all the party in it, and represented one of the natives in his canoe leading the boat, the other two paddling along after us. They understood this, but when I insisted that they were to take us to Bulunga, they made me under- stand that it was impossible, because of the ice in the river, which was not strong enough to travel over, but yet was thick and heavy enough to impede navigation. " We then told the natives," continued Mr. Melville, " that we wanted to get to a place where we could eat, sleep, and dry our clothes. They agreed to pilot us, and we followed them to Borkhia, the place on the headland to which I had been tiying to get all day. The place was deserted, and but two of the huts were found to be tenable. The names of the natives were Malinka Tomat, or Little Thomas, Karini and Theodore. That eveninpf one of them said he would q-q for the head man of the village, and during the night Kanni left the camp for this purpose. I'n the morning, being anxious to push on to Bulun, and being unable to persuade Malinka Tomat to pilot us, we pushed on to the south, but soon found ourselves in the great bay which had devilled us so before. By 3 o'clock in th.e afternoon the weather became bad, and we went back ; but night set in, and I sheltered the boat under the lee of a shoal, driving the tent-poles into the mud to hold her. We passed a terrible night, and those who were not frozen before were badly frozen. In the morning the snow had fallen, changing the whole appearance of the coun- try, but I landed near our camp, and the men soon found Borkhia, and we went back there. As we approached, four UNFORTUNATE EXPEDITION OF THE JEANNETTE. 203 natives came to greet us, the fourth being WassilH Koolgar, or ' Wilham with the Cut Ear,' the head man of the village. We remained there over night, Wassilli assuring me that we could not go to Bulun; but I was so urgent that he finally said yes. I called his attention to the fact that our boat drew thirty inches of water, while his required but two or three inches. He put his paddle into the water at the stern of the whaleboat to gauge her depth, and cut a notch in the handle, showing that he fully comprehended what was expected of him. "The start was accordingly made, two of the canoes going ahead and one in the rear, but we found that Wassilli was unable to pilot us over the shoal. He stood to the north and then to the east, taking us out to sea to one of the oudying islands, a voyage requiring three or four days. During this trip they set their nets and caught us some excellent fresh fish. Our legs were badly swollen with frost and the hard labor which we had had to perform. On the fourth or fifth day with the natives we arrived at the village of Arree, which consisted of about a half dozen huts. We then learned that Wassilli had been shot in the arm, and was too weak to go on any farther with us then. He went off and presently came back in a boat which had been made from i ^-inch plank, shaped like a whaleboat, in which were seated a piratical- looking man named Spiradon, two women, each of whom had lost an eye, and a young man, who was said to be Spiradon's nephew. This youth, Kapiocan, was to pilot us. They brought us a small amount of provision, consisting of a goose within the carcass of which three others were stuffed. This was to be our food supply, with what fish we could catch, un- til we reached Jainavialock. "We remained at Arree over night, and went on for two days, arriving at Jamavialock at noon on the 26th of Septem ber, 1 88 1. "The natives came down to meet us, and amonof them I noticed a red-headed Russian exile and ex-soldier, who had been exiled for the theft of ammunition. On landing. Leach and I were so much crippled that we had to crawl about on our hands and knees. We, with Lauderback and one or two others in the same condition, sat down on a dog-sled which was near, whereupon the women hauled us up to the hut of the starosta, one Nicholai Shaorra. 'A m ■•:! II .*■■; f i -I-IPII 204 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. ii'ijj' i'- J lilji-i:;' {■; H I "A description of thi§ hut is as follows : it was rectano-ular in form, 16 by 20 feet, and on the interior was 9 feet dear to the ceiling, the sides sloping- inwards from the base like a truncated cave. It was built of neatly hewn timber six inches wide, planted in the ground and inclined inward, so that the base would be about thirty inches from a perpendicular line let fall from the tops of the planks. The roof rests on strin- <^ers at the top of the inclined timbers, and consisted of close hewn timbers calked in widi reindeer moss. The hut was banked up with earth to a height of three or four feet, and a thickness of three feet, and over this a layer of moss, one foot thick, was placed. The door was at one end of the hut, and immediately behind the huge fire-place, constructed of a box, four feet square, and raised about four feet above the ground. The floor was of timber, and around the hut, under the slop- ing sides, were the beds or berths, each six feet long, about thirty inches wide and separated by partitions. There were two at the far end and three on each side, making eight berths in all. The chimney was built up from the fire-place and led through the roof, being of slicks covered with clay from the bottoms of the ponds. Dry lumps of this clay are usually kept stored in the huts to repair any damage which miofht be done to the structure. At the rear were either one or two windows, sixteen inches square. In the summer time these are left open, but in winter they are closed by slabs of ice. Early in the winter season, when the ice is from four to six inches thick, sixteen or twenty slabs are cut and stored upon the top of the house. When the cold weather sets in one of these slabs is set in place, and a mixture of snow and warm water is put into the chinks. This freezing all the openings are closed, and light is admitted through the ice. The inner surface is scraped with a knife or piece of tin every morning to remove the hoar-frost which forms in the nifrht and which obscures the light. The temperature of the huts ranging from 60 to 90 degrees, the ice is gradually destroyed from the inside, and in a few weeks is pierced with holes. Another slab is then set in its place. "As you go into the hut, at the right-hand corner from the back of the fire-place are stow-holes, in which food and fuel are kept. At the far end of the room, on the right, is the stall, or berth, occupied by the owner of the hut, while to the left is the guests' chamber. Over this are usually placed UNFORTUNATE EXPEDITION OF THE JEANNETTE. 205 ler one time abs of "our to stored sets in Dw and all the he ice. every night ■le huts troyed holes. nil the id fuel lis the 1 to the )laced portraits of the saints and other rel^ious pictures. Along the right side are the berths of the relatives of the family, de- scending down in regular order to the corner, which is occu- pied by some old pensioner. I have never been in a Yakut hut where ther-^ was not some poor person in one of these pens. The stalls on the opposite side are where the strangers are located. In this particular house to which we were taken, forty people slept overnight. After the fire goes out, the old woman usually goes outside and places a board over the top of the chimney, I need hardly say that under these circum- stances vermin are plentiful in the houses. "When we reached the starosta's hut we at once turned in, and slept until we were aroused for a breakfast of boiled fish. We then went to sleep again, but were aroused at 9 p. m. and given a feed of goose. The geese are killed in the summer, when in the pin-feathers, as then they are unable to fly. They are driven into flocks and beaten to death, the natives killing hundreds and thousrmds of them in this way. The people ordinarily use bows and arrows, as they have very few guns. The geese are not cleaned at all, but are hung up in pairs by the necks, simply to keep them from being stolen by foxes. All the juices settle to the lower ends, and they become putrid and full of maggots. When the winter comes they are frozen solid, and are then stored away. When the geese are to be used they first hang them up at the fire to thaw out, and I have seen them so putrid that they would drop apart. "The next day I said that I must go to Bulun, but the native- refused to guide me. Towards 10 o'clock, however, the weather cleared and they agreed, but they said that it would t;ike fifteen days for the trip. They then gathered to- gether sixty fish, of about four pounds each, which I was told would be the food supply for the W'^ le party, including Yapheme Koppiloff, the Russian exile, I objected to starting with such a meagre supply, but they pointed to their nets and said they would catch more as we proceeded. I was afraid to go under these conditions, but decided to make the ven- ture. Leac^i asked to be left behind, saying that he would rather die where he was, but I would not permit it. We got off finally, but about three or four o'clock that afternoon the ice commenced to run one and a quarter and two inches in thickness, and the natives positively refused to go any farther. I was not sorry, and we ran back to Jamavialock in less than m ■r(..f' ) 206 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. an hour. The natives pulled the boat well out upon the beach, and we were hauled up to the hut again by the women, and returned to our quarters on the 27th of September, this time in a hut by ourselves. "I now made the natives understand who and what we were," the chief-engineer went on to say. *' Upon a table in cur hut I placed a large log, to represent the Jeannette, and indicated the boats by small sticks. Illustrating the de- struction of the vessel, the log was thrown under the table, and in the same way I told them of the separation of the boats in the gale. I learned from the Russian of General Tcheranieff, the commandant of the district, and I used his name to threaten the natives. I would tell them that, unless they made every effort to get me and my men to Bulun, I would complain to General Tcheranieff, and he would cause them to be punished. I feared scurvy, as I know of a case of a Russian officer and party who died of it in that region, and I know also that there never was a ship that was two winters in the Arctic seas where there was no scurvy. Our limbs were swollen and putty-like, we had no bread to eat, and nothing but the putrid meat which the natives gave us, and I felt it was necessary to push on. The next day the whole bay was covered with ice and the wind was blowing so fiercely that everything had to be tied fast on the island. I saw it was impossible to advance, and we had to sit down and wait for the return of a messenger to the Cossack sergeant, who I learned was in command at Bulun. We therefore wrote out an account of our situation, I in English, Mr. Dan- enhower in French, Mr. Lauderback in German, and Mansen in Swedish. This I sewed up in an oilskin bag, and placed it in the hands of Nicholai, with orders to forward it as soon as he could." Mr. Melville and the crew of the whale-boat had reached Jamavialock in the latter part of September. They were almost naked, their moccasins worn out and the full rigor of a Siberian winter was settinqf in. " We had been there for a week," to take up the story in Mr. Melville's words, "when we heard that there was another Russian in the camp, one Kusma, an exile. He had crossed the bay in some way, though the ice was not yet firm. I sent for him and had a talk. He promised that he would come back to us on the following Thursday. I took him out and showed him the UNFORTUNATE EXPEDITION OF THE JEANNETTE. 207 whale-boat, telling him that I wanted him to carry a despatch to the Cossack commandant at Bulun, and that I would give him the boat if he would bring help. Bulun was 280 versts distant (a verst being 66 per cent, of a mile) across a range of niountains 1,300 feet high. Kusma seemed delighted at the idea of owning such a boat, and he promised that on the following Sunday he would be ready to go. I proposed that he should take Bartlett with him, not wishing to send Danen- hower, who h?d been on the sick-list for two years, but Kus- ma assured me that he could go faster alone, as he had a short team of dogs, and it would increase the load from 600 to 800 pounds. This was the reason I did not send a mes- senger with him to Bulun. "On the evening of Kusma's departure I heard that Nicholai Shagra was to go too. Upon inquiring about this, I learned that Kusma was under the surveillance of the starosta of the village, who was responsible to the Russian authorities for him. They were to be back in five days. By diis time the force was getting in pretty good condition. I had complained of the short allowance of food, but it was increased. Eight days passed and Kusma had not returned, and I was growi»ig very impatient. I then expressed a deter- mination to start for Bulun, and set out to march the distance, but I was dissuaded by Mr. Danenhower, who said that we might look for the return of our messenger at any hour, and 'why risk the safety of the whole party by such a march ? ' I decided that he was right. We waited for thirteen days, when Kusma arrived — on the evening of the 29th of October. He brought us a small amount of provisions, a ball of tallow, some tobacco and two letters, one of which was from the priest at Bulun. "At last, after fumbling about in his pocket for a long time," he produced a piece of paper, which he gave to me. He ex- plained that he had met two 'Americansk * on the way, and that they had given him the paper. It proved to be a pencil- note from Noros and Nindemann, which said that they had come for help to go to the rescue of Captain DeLong and nine other persons. There had been thirteen in the first cutter, and by this account one was missing. This was the first intimation I had that any of the party was dead. As soon as I got this note I said that we were to go back at once to find Nindemann and Noros. Kusma told me that the two 'J , n t i«3 ,W,*, ••! .1-* s^iN h ,,il 208 ARCTIC EXI'LOKATIONS. seamen had been picked up in a hut (at Bulkoor), that they were sick, and had been taken to Bulun, and that the Cossack commandant was to come to meet us. " Kusma said that he could not start back at once, for the reason that his dogs were footsore, and the natives n(.'V('r drive them two days in succession if they can help it. Mis excuse for being so long as thirteen days on the journey was that after he had crossed the mountains from Tamose to the banks of the Lena, he found that the ice in the river had broken up and run out, and he had to wait ; that when he ^rot to Bulun the Cossack commandant would not let him remain there but started him back at once. I then sought other means of transportation, but Kusma volunteered to go to Tamose, and that we could start the next day, the 30th of October, by getting a fresh team of dogs. "Seven months after, when I found DeLong and the people dead, I found also his record, on which wac written: 'October 30th, Boyd and Goertz died and Mr. Collins' dog.' This was the last entry, written by DeLong on the morning of the day I left Jymavialock to go to Bulun to find Noros and Ninde- mann, to learn the whereabouts of DeLong, and of the track by which I could go to their succor. The receipt of that note on the 29th of October was the first knowledge any of us had that any of the other boats' crews had landed. It had been the common conversation that it was impossible that any of the boats should have lived through the gale, and even at the moment of the arilval of Kusma the subject of the talk amongst the men was the undoubted loss of the other two boats' crews." •' On the 30th of October," continued Mr. Melville, " Was- silli Koolgar was at Jamavialock with nine dogs and a broken sled, the best he could get. I was not sufficiently clothed for such a trip, having but a pair of cassimere trousers, a sealskin jacket worn threadbare, and half a blanket wrapped around my body. My limbs were frozen from my knees to my toes, and were covered with sores and scabs ; my nails were frozen off or shrivelled up, and my footgear was insufficient. We took a small amount of provisions, and started out in the dead of winter to go 280 versts in an open dog-sled. We reached Tamose, where it was necessary to renew the sled, and this kept us the whole of the 30th. We slept there, and the next day started to cross the mountains. All through this UNFORTUNATE KXrKDllION OV THE JEANNISTTE, 209 section little huts called ' povarnniars,' or cook-houses, have been provided for the safety of travellers — the traders and natives. At midnight we stopped at one of these and had supper. It was now the ist of November, but it was blowing so hard that Wassilli would not start until noon, stopping at the second povarnniar, where we met a lot of traders and natives who were bound nordi. "When we arrived at the next village, Kumaksurt, the dogs ^ave out. We should have got to Burulak, but I secured a team of reindeer and Wassilli returned. I slept that night at Burulak, and, getting fresh teams, on the night of die 2d of November arrived at Bulun, The deer-drivers knew what my errand was, and, stopping at the public place, ushered me to an outer part. They pointed to a door, which I threw open, and there saw Noros behind a table cutting a slice from a loaf of black bread, and Nindemann was lying on a berth, the place being cold and miserable. I waited to see if Noros would recognize me, and then said: 'Hello, Noros; how are you?' He dropped the knife and exclaimed: * My God, Mr. Melville, is that you ? We thought the whale-boat crew were all dead ! ' Nindemann rolled out of his berth, and we shook hands very heartily. "The men related the story of their tiials and toils, after the separation of the boats on the night of the gale of the 1 2th of September, much the same as I have related. They as- sured me that it was the general opinion that the second cutter and the whale-boat had been swamped, and they sup- posed that they two were the only survivors of the whole ex- pedition. They related the difficulties of handling the boat; how the mast was broken off and carried away, and how they finally landed in one of the north mouths of the river, aban- doning the boat half a mile from shore ; and how Errickson's feet had been frozen from his having to sit at the tiller, ren- dering amputation necessary, and how he had died and been buried in the ice. After a number of delays they arrived at a point of land overlooking the bay in which I had been so devilled. DeLong concluded to send Noros and Nindemann in advance, he having supposed that he had entered the n.ain branch of the river, and that he was but a few miles from the natives. The men told me of their wanderings, how they were pressed for food, and had given up all hope. They, stopped to rest at a hut where they found some broken sleds. 14 ft' T„ '.i iM 2IO arctic: rxpLouATroNs. W ! uM^ii After they had left the ' place of the sleds,' ihcy rcr^rcttcd leaving it and wanted to return, but diey saw two huts and crawled into them, unable to go any farther. Tliey fouiv] there the remains of some decayed fish, from which thf> oil had been extracted by the natives for use in their lamp;-,. The men were there two or three days resting. Knowimr that they were on the main branch of the river, seeing-; tht> mcMuitains at the sides, they were about to start on when Noros complained of weakness, and they stayed a day longer. " They now heard a rustling outside the hut, and Ninde- mann advanced with the gun, and, opening the door, saw a na- tive, who dropped down upon his knees and begged not to he shot. I ie told the seamen he had nothing to eat, but that he would go and bring them provisions. He went off and soon returned widi two other natives, food, and a team. Nindc- mann and Noros tried to make them understand that there were two men to the northward in danger of starvation, but the natives could not comprehend, and hurried them on to a native village — Kumaksurt — and thence to Bulun. " They complained that since they had been in the village they had Jiad litde to eat except dried fish, which the natives had given them, and that they were only treated well when the Cossack was there. There was plenty of meat they told me, but they could not get any. I inquired and found that the starosta, the priest, and the assistant priest were in the village ; that the old priest, owing to a love of the ardent, was not fit to be seen, but I saw the young priest, and told him that the two men were in danger of dying from the condition they were in. He replied that he had no authority m the vil- lage, and that he did not dare even to enter any house. I then selected a vacant one and told him to open the door. I said my government would be responsible for whatever I did. I then gathered together such utensils as were needed, and got men to haul wood and cook for Noros and Nindemann, and care for them as long as they were there. In the mean- time I affiliated with the priest ; I told him that I had hoped to have met the Cossack and to have turned him back, and that after learning the facts that he would go with me on the search for DeLong. Not knowing that there were two ways, one for dogs and one for reindeer, I had missed him. As he had left with teams and material to bring my whole party to Bulun, all I could do was to wait their arrival. m ran) Nil '- m . 212 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. " I had learned that Noros and Nindemann had left DeLono- twenty-two days before, and that then the people had had nothinij to eat for four or five days. They said it was useless for me to seek them, as they were all dead long ere this time, and that the bodies would be covered with snow, and it would be impossible to find them. They had recommended waitinc until spring to prosecute the search, both the seamen bi inir as yet unable to travel. In the meantime 1 had written out a full statement of my course. One evening I had gone to sec the priest, when an old woman came saying that another Americansk had arrived. I went back to the hut and found tliat Bardett had come from Jamavialock with a paper, re- turned to me from Danenhower, V'/hich the Cossack had car- ried from Nindemann and Noros to that place with the inten- tion of delivering it to me. It was a telegram which they had prepared for the United States Minister at St. Petersburg, but which the Cossack, knowing of my presence, instead oi sending to Irkoutsh had carried to me. Danenhower, sup- posing it to be of importance, had sent it back to me. Bart- lett returned by the reindeer teams for the transportation of the party to Bukin. The Cossack had also sent a letter in Russian to the starosta, directing him to supply me with a dog-team, clothing, and to deliver me at tlie midway station, where the next day I was to meet the Cossack, who would supply the teams for the search. "At Bulun," Chief-Engineer Melville went on to say, "I met the native who had rescued Noros and Nindemann; and the gollivar or head man of the village — Tomat Constantino Mokloploff — who were to accompany me on the journey; they being able to pick up the trail from where the sailors were found at Bulkoor. We travelled by reindeer-teams fram Bulun to Burulak, but were disappointed in not findmg Sergeant Baislioff, the Cossack commandant, and Mr. Danen- hower's party. We remained there over night, and about eleven o'clock the next morning the party arrived with sev- eral dog-teams. After breakfast I gave Mr. Danenhower written orders to proceed to Bulun, and after preparing food and clothing for the entire party, wiiH the exception of Bart- lett, who was to be left behind to look for ir.f^ in case of dis- aster, and to proceed southward to Yakutsh to await my .oming. Before leaving Bulun I had given Bartlett verbal orders, which I reported to Danenhower, to remain at Bulun, UNFORTUNATE EXPEDITION OF THE JEANNETTE. 213 )eLon_fr lad had useless lis lime, it would waiting n being tn out a e to see another id found iper, re- had car- le in ten - they had ;ersburcT, stead ol ver, sup- i. Bart- tation of letter in e with a ' station, 10 would say, "1 ann., and istandne ourney; le sailors r-teams It find'ng Danen- d about ith sev- nhower nc^ food fBart- i of dis- ait my it verbal Bulun, and if I did not come back in thirty days to organize a party to come in search of me. At Burulak Danetihower informed me of the entire breaking down of Jack Cole. During the sled<'^e ride from Jamavialock it was almost impossible to keep him on the sled, and to prevent him from throwing his cloth- in'i" away. His mind was entirely gone, and he required the constant care and attention of his messmates. "I left Burulak at noon, with two dog-teams driven by Wassilli Koolgar and Tomat Constantine Mokloploff, each team consisting of eleven dogs. Before starting the Cossack commandant informed me that he had supplied the natives with provisions for ten days, for men and dogs, allowing a fish for each man and one for each dog per day. That evening we brought up at a station to the northward, some forty versts distant, called Kumaksurt, wdiere we stayed over night. The next morning we proceeded to Bulkoor, fifty-five versts off. This was the place at which Noros and Nindemann were found. It is located on the west bank of the Lena, at the mouth of a small stream entering the river, and on a high bank about forty feet above the level of the river. Bulkoor consisted of one polatkin, a balagan, and a storehouse. We found evidenc ^ of the two seamen having been there. We turned in for the night, and the next day it was storming so hard that the natives could not be induced to move. There was a izale of wind, and the snow drifted so that it was im- possible to face it, and there was nothing left but to camp and await the abateme nt of the storm. "The day following we set out at daylight and found the hut known as the 'place of the sleds,' wdiere Noros and Nin- demann had stopped, and had burned the sleds for fuel, and to which they wanted to return to die. The two sailormen bad informed me that wdien they left DeLong encamped on the north side of a small branch of the river, wdiich DeLong supposed to be the main one, he had told them to push on, and that he would follow as rapidly as he could in their foot- steps. For this reason I tried my utmost to retrace the steps of Noros and Nindemann, in hopes of meeting DeLong or some of his party. Wc; pushed on, following the west bank, as DeLong had directed the seamen. They had in- formed ine that after leaving DeLcii;.>- up to the time they had reached the place of the sleds, they had not lodged in any hut, and our only guide was to keep the west bank of the U i it I tUPl' 'it tn II-:- .(■ 1S iil IS 214 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. river Aboorde. The natives said it was ninety versts to the nearest povarnniar. It liad come on to storm and blow, with a driving snow-storm from the north and east. "We struggled on until night, when we dug a hole in the snow bank and camped for the night. It stormed so that it was impossible to build a fire, so we ate our raw frozen rish and crept into our sleeping-bags. The mode of campincr in the snow," explained the explorer, " is as follows : The natives with their shovels, which they always carry with them to dio- the snow from their traps or from the doors of the povarn- niars, dig a hole six feet square by three feet deep in the bank, throwing the snow to the windward. The sleds are then arranged to the windward, the sleeping-bags put in the bottom of the pit, and the dogs on top of them to keep us warm. The sleds being to the windward, the wind and snow- will ricochet, the blast driving over the sleepers beneath, the snow gradually filling up the pit and keeping them warm. It matters litde how cold or how miserable a man may be when he first crawls in, even when the thermometer is 40 degrees below zero, he will warm up with a gentle glow and remain so four or five hours. In the meantime the driving snow gets in the interstices of the bag, filling in around the neck and hood and sleeves ; the warmth of the body melts the snow ;ind the sleeper becomes wet and begins to chill. Therefore, every four or five hours he has to be awakened and made to turn out and get his blood in circulation ; otherwise a person would be very apt to freeze. For instance, on this occasion, the snow had driven in my coat, and thawing had v.ct my sleeve. I was aroused by a sharp biting pain in the back of my left wrist, and hastily pulling my sleeve away i n .noved with it a piece of the skin which had been frozen to my cooly- tang or jacket. " In the morning it was still storming, but we ate our raw fish and proceeded along the west bank to a place designated as that of ' the two crosses,' by the two sailor men. We found there two abandoned huts and traces of where the two men had been searching for food, but I saw no evidence of the De- Long party having followed the trail. We had now been 48 hours without warm food, and it was still snowing and blowing terribly, but the huts were uninhabitable. The dogs were exhausted and it seemed impossible to go on. The natives had been hauling the sleds, but I was so badly frozen that I UNFORTUNATE EXPEDITION OF THE JEANNETTE. 215 \: could not run alongside the sled to keep up the circulation and I was suffering in the lower limbs terribly. There was nothing to do but to camp down in the snow a second time. We had now arrived at the mouth of the Lena river proper where it debouches into a great bay, the place being marked by a magnificent landmark — the ' stolb,* — which in Russian means *a stone column' like a pilaster. The seamen had told me that in wandering across the bay seeking for the river they passed around the base of the stolb. We searched the sand spits and shoals in the vicinity, and as night came on the natives said the nearest hut was a povarnniar at Mot Vay, 25 versts distant, on the west bank of the river. We reached there some time after midnight. The natives cleared the snow from the door and we crept in, to find the interior partly filled with snow because of a board in the roof having been left off. The natives murmured at this, but we soon had a fire, the sleds were unloaded and we made a kettle of liot tea. "As soon as the fire was lighted I noticed that the sticks on the three sides of the floor were disarranged and removed from their usual place, and had been arranged with the ends towards the fire, the farther end raised up like a couch or the beds of the North American Indians. I at once called attention to this, and asked if that was the Yakut custom, the natives replying that it was not. It struck me that some of the DeLong party had slept there, and I supposed tha*^ it had been Alexei sent out as a second search party. In tlie morn- ino- 1 found a leather waistbelt with a buckle that I recoiinized as having been made on the Jeannette. I made a further search for evidence as to who mio^ht have been th ^re, bearing in mind that the two seamen had never been in any hut until they reached the place of the sleds. I felt that I was one step in advance of where the seamen had been, and that I was on DeLonq's track, but I subsequendy found that Noros and Nindemann had slep*: there and had forgotten all about it, and that the belt was one which Noros had used to strap a blanket around him." "When I was ready to start," continued Mr. Melville, " the natives refused to ,s:::o farther north, saying that they had no provisions. This exasperated me, as I had the assurance of Baishoff that I had a ten days' supply for men and dogs. Persuasion was useless, and I seized the dog-stakes and laid ' I 'If ' 'I 2l6 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. ■•*i about me across the heads and shoulders of the two Yakuts who ran away. I found I had made a mistake, and fearing they would desert me, I seized a gun and fired — not to shoot them but to bring them back. As soon as I did this they dropped down upon their hands and knees, and screamed * Finstocki sok,' no gun, and crawled back. After they l,r,d returned I loaded the gun again and demonstrated how well I could shoot by firing into the side of a hut, tearing out a place a foot in diameter, much to the fear and astonishment of the natives. I made them understand that I must go on. A BATTLE WITH BLADDER-NOSES. They assured me that if I did I would die, they would die and the dosfs would die ; that we had nothinsf to eat and the doers nothmg ; that it was 250 versts into the northwest to the nearest settlement; that the dogs were broken down and unable to travel, and I was unable to walk. They unloaded the sleds to show me the provisions, I having thought they were lying. I assured them that we had plenty of food while we had the dogs ; that ten of my friends were dying of starva- tion, and that I must go on. They replied that my people were dead, and that there was no reason for the rest perish- ing for dead men ; that in the spring, when the snow was UNFORTUNATE EXPEDITION OF THE JEANNETTE. 217 . 225 so deep le banks, yvn in the ting and ogs and ng their ers, and »n be on here we g up for nd some ve made without, he snow. )eLong's very ac- for De- lis inci- lis of the Jumbling loise of Id up or of tons heaped against the rocky islands, defying the progress of even the unhampered pedestrian. Mr. Melville blurs the ro- mantic picture of the Esquimaux calmly sitting in shoe-shaped sleds, with the lashes of their long whips trailing gracefully behind, while the dogs dash in full cry and perfect unison across smooth expanses of snow and ice, and substitutes in its place a scene as full of action, if not of progress : dogs yelling, barking, snapping, and fighting, the leaders in the rear and the wheelers in the middle, all as hopelessly tangled up as a basketful of eels. Such tangles the Yakuts dissolve by merciless poundings with heavy iron-tipped staves until the poor brutes become more tractable, and scud along the hard snow at a six-mile gait. After an hour's run the team is re- leased and allowed to roll in the snow and lick the paws that so soon become sore with travc^l. Curiously enough the Si- berian dog returns promptly to harness when called. Life among the Yakuts must be like a nightmare. Forty per cent, are blind and sixty per cent, partially so, or one- eyed, and syphilitic disease prevails to an awful extent. Melville made his first journeys with little other sustenance than the heads and offal of fish that could be found in aban- doned huts, rotten deer bones, tendons, and rawhide. One of his guides set out on a journey of some two hundred miles with a team of tired dogs and no provisions but a tiny piece chipped from a block of tea. Of the capacity of the Yakut stomach we have a graphic if not reproducible account: the Siberian Gargantua swallowing nearly nineteen pounds of melted butter at two long drinks. Litde as the natives have they are cheated. The Russian tax-gatherer keeps them in ienorance of the advance in the value; of furs durinqf the last generation, and collecting in kind pays a small portion of the proceeds in cash into the treasury, and steals the rest, while gamblers infest the villages systematically, buy whatever the natives have to sell, and cheat them out of the money. Never- theless these poor wretches supported the shipwrecked crew, and showed no little capacity for fidelity and obedience ; there is a picture of a frolicsome young bride's love-making to her bashful husband, which has a touch of the idyl about it, and Melville found near the Pole, as Mungo Park at the Equator, that the woman's heart always has a fount of sympathy for the sufferino: and the strancrer. Travelling by deer-sled, though rapid work — some of Mr. '» m 'I u.. hi , , >:,'■'. ■'!' '?^'||:' 230 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. 1 ■; Melville's postinq- was done at almost railroad speed, as 140 versts in thirteen hours, 80 in six and a quarter hours, and 900 versts (the verst is two-thirds of a mile) in five days and eighteen hours — is not always pleasant, either to traveller or animal. The wilds are pathless ; occasionally the driver has the excitement of pursuit by a dog-team ravenous for venison- the sleds overturn on the slightest provocation. The deer are kept to their work by being punched in the haunches with a pole. " When driven at the top of their speed they labor painfully along, with heads thrust forward, nostrils dis- tended, sides working at every leap, like a great pair of blacksmith's bellows, and the noi-i(i of their breathing like the exhaust of ? locomotive. Maintaining their fearful exertions for about half an hour, they suddenly swerve among the trees, or up a steep bank, to avoid their tormentor, or, droppintr down in their tracks, bury their heads with open mouths in the snow, and eat voraciously of the cooling dust." The cat- tle are housed, during the winter months, under the same roof and frequently in the same apartments with their own- ers ; the horses are not stabled, even in the severest weather, but dig through the snow for grass, or crop twigs and branches of trees. Concerning the Siberian exiles, Mr. Melville tells a good deal. One, whom he met repeatedly, was a law-student who had been arrested for participation in a students' street row. After three examinations the courts could find nothing against him, nevertheless he was packed off to the frozen north for life on an "administrative order," which said: "We can prove nothing aerainst this man; but he is a student of law, and no doubt very dangerous." This exile's companions, whose ages ranged from eighteen to twenty-seven, were all professional men and confirmed Nihilists, "though several said they had not been so until after their banishment." Each was allowed ^12.50 a month with which to feed, clothe, and house himself, and procure fuel and service; this where ryemeal costs nearly eight cents a pound and sugar fifty. Some of the exiles with wealthy friends receive allowances from them, but these must not exceed $150 at one payment, and mails are very irregular — say twice a year, with packages at odd inter- vals through travelling merchants. No exile may send or receive a sealed packet. The natives are held accountable, under penalty of imprisonment, for any escapes. lO^ 1 I 1 lint:!:::, illlll mm\w II IB i@ 1 'vJ^/iN'il 11 II < (230 t'lll ■ : i- ili i I-: t. 1 ■' 1 i ■ 'i 1 W^ ll 1,; •'• :'i I 232 ARCTIC f:XPLORATIONS. One of the exiles met by Melville had been a practising physician in the Crimea ; he had neitiier committed a crime nor belonged to a society ; he might, however, have offended a rival by his marriage. He had been treating the child of the local police-master, but she was convalescent when, one morning, he was sent for by that official — sent, for with sidi urgency that he was not allowed to finish his breakfast or take an overcoat. On reaching the official's residence he was told that he was a prisoner on *' administrative order," and, widi- out being permitted to bid farewell to his young wife, or to obtain clothing or money, he was packed off to Siberia within twelve hours. His wife followed him to Irkutsk, intending to join him in exile, but he was moved on to Verkeransk, 2,000 miles distant, just before her arrival ; she went mad, and died in despair at this ending of her 4,000-mile journey, and he, after an attempt at suicide, settled down in his hopelessness to practise his profession — without fee, since no exile is al- lowed to gain money for himself. He was not a Nihilist; indeed, was in indifferent repute with his companions because of his moderation in politics. There is some satisfaction in reflecting that the Nihilists utilize their reputation for blood- thirstiness and desperation in order to worry the officials and to make the traders sell them goods at a discount. One exile, a poet and scholar, whose translation of the Bible was appropriated by the bishop of the diocese, attempted an escape by securing a "double" — a Cossack resembling him closely, and trained and educated till the deception could scarcely be discovered, being substituted for him, but his clever plan mis- carried, and he was sent into a severer captivity. The only contented exiles are the "Scaups" (skoptzoi), who mudiate themselves so that they can neither beget nor nurse children. They are teetotalers and vegetarians, live in. communities un- der police surveillance, and farm extensively. Like the Shak- ers, they are prosperous and honest ; they die well-to-do, but, somehow, manage to dispose of their property so that it escapes confiscation to the State. Chief-Encrineer Melville describes his meeting with Ser- geant Elison at the rescue of Greely's party. Elison had lost both hands and both feet and his nose by frostbite, "yet he seemed cheerful and bright, and thrust out one of his arm- stumps, which I shook in lieu of a hand. He said : ' So you ■! ■ , t MELVILLE S NARRATIVE CONTINUED. 233 are one of the officers from the Jeannette, and poor DeLong^ is dead ! You must have had a terrible time!* Here was sympathy, sure enough. A man with nose, feet, and hands frozen off, who for months had been helplessly stretched upon his back, enduring every agony and horror but death itself, could find room in his bleeding heart to pity the past suffer- inijs of others. A noble nature, indeed ! " "Melville concludes with "A Method for Reaching the Pole." The ice-barrier he regards as impenetrable to vessels, and he looks to find above 85° an immovable ice-cap, not the chaotic " palaeocrystlc sea" of Nares and Markham, but a clear, un- broken surface, subject, of course, to fissures and shrinkage cracks. He would attack the pole by way of F.anz Josef Land, establishing depots at selected posts, each in charge of a small party provisioned for four years, and instructed to retreat at the end of three, leaving the remainder of th^ir boats and supplies for the " forlorn hope " of some ten men, who will make the " dash for the pole " on fc >t. " I propose to prove this theory of reaching the North ^ole by going there myself!" "Beautiful river!" say the people of Bucharest of their Dimbovitza ; " whoso hath once drunk of thy waters shall always thirst for them wherever he go ! " What is the secret of the fatal fascination which Africa and the Arctic region have for those who have once tasted of the cup of ad- venture and exploration ? !*'l? ,;J.:i ■M I?!''i: "11 if- mi CHAPTER XVI. NARRATIVE OF LIEUTENANT DANENHOWER. The Jeannelte Expedition, as Described by Lieutenant Danenhower — Leaving San Fran. Cisco — East Cape Rounded — Herald Island — Wrangell Land — Frozen in — Cold Weather — 58 degrees Fahrenheit — Aurora Borealis — Sufficient Game — Ice Bears Killed— Mel- ville's Canal — ^Jeannette Island and Henrietta Island. "The Jeannette left San Francisco on the 8th of July, 1879, with a full outfit for three years, with five commissioned offi- cers of the navy, two civil scientists, and twenty-four of the ship's company. We arrived at Ounalaska on the 3d of Au- gust, after a long passage caused by head winds and the ves- sel being laden below her proper bearings. The Jeannette was perfectly seaworthy, having been thoroughly put in order at Mare Island before starting. After coaling ship at Oun- alaska we proceeded to St. Michael's, Alaska, to meet our supply schooner, the Fanny A. Hyde. There we filled up with stores, got fur clothing, purchased forty dogs and en- gaged two American Indians — Anequin and Alexei — as hun- ters and dog-drivers, thus completing our complement of thirty-three. On the 25th of August we crossed BehringG Sea, in a very heavy gale, and though the ship was loaded very deeply she behaved admirably. " We visited St. Lawrence Bay in order to take in coal and the remaining supplies from the schooner, as well as to con- verse with the native Chukches and to sret news of Nordens- kjold. We met about twenty natives, one of whom had learned a little English from American traders, and he told us that a steamer had passed south the previous June. The natives were ragged and dirty, and had no food to dispose of. We shot some wild fowl, and then we saw remains of vessels burned by the Shenandoah. Up the St. Lawrence Bay we found magnificent scenery. We sent off our last mail by the supply schooner, and on the 27th of August, 7 p. m., we started north. Next day we passed through Behring's Strait We rounded East Cape about three of the afternoon of the (234) NARRATIVE OF LIEUTENANT DANENIIOWER. 235 ig San Fran. Zolcl Wer.thcr Killed— Mel- uly, 1879, Dned offi- ur of the 3d of Au- d the ves- jeannette It in order p at Oiin- meet our filled up and en- 1 — as hun- ment of iBehring's ,s loaded coal and IS to con- JNordens- Ihom had he told Ine. The lispose of. |)f vessels Bay we lil by the |p. M., we r's Strait )n of the 28th ; it was then cloudy, no observations, running by dead reckoning. The East Cape loomed very bold and bluff. We could not see the Diomedes in the straits. "On the 29th I saw, from the crow's-nest, huts on the beach. We stood in and found a summer settlement. Cap- tain DeLong- apd a party of officers started ashore in the whaleboat, but could not land owing to the surf breaking on icevvard. Seeing the difficulty, the natives launched a bicia- rah, 01* large skin-boat, very skilfully, and came off to the ship, bringing their chief with them. We had a long inter- view with them in the cabin, but as neither party could under- stand the other the results of the convcTsation were not great. Ti:ey made us understand, however, by bending the elbow and saying 'Schnapps' what they wanted, but the captain refused to listen to their request. Lieutenant Chipp then went ashore and succeeded in landing about midnight, and from an old woman from King's Island who could talk with our Indians, we learned that Nordenskjold with the Vega had wintered to the north of them, and had passed east to Behr- ing's Strait in the month of June. The next day we cruised along the coast to the westward. Met two other parties of natives, who came alongside, but took a look at us only. "On Sunday, August 31st, we fell in with some drift-ice, and at daylight discovered a few huts on the beach. The drift-ice extended about four miles off shore. Lieutenant Chipp, Ice-Pilot Dunbar and I, went ashore in the whaleboat to interview the natives. After a two hours' pull through the drifipack, and seeing many seals, we reached the beach and found several carcasses of recently slain walrus. The natives seemed rather shy, and we had to look them up in their skin tents. There we found c\ sailor's trypot, and a cask marked 'Centennial brand of whiskey,' — conclusive proof that the people were in occasional communication with American traders. "We met an intelligent young Chukche, who offered to show us the spot where the Vega had wintered. We took a tramp of several hours to the westward, and saw a bay about fifteen miles wide between the headlands, and there the natives told us the Vega had passed the winter. We found nothing there of any consequence. In the tents, however, we found tin cans marked * Stockholm,' scraps of paper with soundings marked in Swedish, and some interesting pictures of Stock- 'ii:!!'! :l I , *■ :)k >iP li, I i ! 236 ARCTIC r.X PI, ORATIONS. holm professional boautios. The natives indicated to us |^y siijns that the steamer had passed safely out to the (Mst. After purchasinLT some of the pictures and tin cans wv. re- turned to the ship. "During- my absence the captain had got the sun at nnnn, and the latitjde placed us about fifteen miles inland. Our astronomical positions were not reliable, owinor to the sUiu; of the weather, but from them and the dead reckonin^^ \v(,' felt assured that the coast is not correctly charteil. TIk. general appearance of the coast was fresh and pleasing. Off what we supposed to be Cape Serdze Kamen we saw a larce heart-shaped rock, of which Mr. Collins made an elahonitc sketch. There were several sugar-loaf mountains in siolu. "Our walk to the Vega's winter quarters was over a mossy tundra; no signs of deer; the vegetation withcn-ti. The natives were hospitable, and one old Chukche clnini- pressed us to eat a dish of walrus blood, but we felt com- pelled to refuse the offtn*. The natives were stalwart and handsome ; they lived in skin tents and were cxceediiinjy dirty. They were well clad, and the chief wore a red calico gown as the distinguishing mark of his dignity. This was the last time most of us touched land for a period of mure than two years. "About 4 r. M., August 31st, we stood to the northwest, shaping our course to the southeast cape of Wrangell Land, and then we felt that our Arctic cruise had actually com- menced. We met considerable drift-ice ; the weatlicr was stormy and misty. About sunrise, September ist, we dis- cerned an island which was taken to be Kolyutschin, In Kolyutschin Bay. Next day we me., pack-ice in floes of moderate size, turned to the northward and northeastward, and cruised along the Siberian pack, entering leads at times to examine them. "On the afternoon of September 4th a whaling bark bore down to us ; we stopped engines and awaited her approach, but the weather became misty and she did not speak us. We had an Arctic mail on board at the time, and were disap- pointed at not being able to send letters home. We ran in several times and made fast to floe-pieces, to await clear weather. That afternoon, about four, we saw an immense tree, with its roots, drifting by. Ice-Pilot Dunbar, seeing it, said that in 1865, when the Shenandoah destroy(\i the I'a^nfl NARUATIVK Ol" LIEUTENANT DANENIIOWHR. = 37 whalers, lie was at St. Lawroiicc Hay; ami wlicn, a (v.w months later, he landed on Herald Island, he was <;reatly surprised to see masts and portions of tiie destroyed vessels tlriitini* in that vicinity, Tiiis made me look out ibr a norlh- \vest drift. Then Merald Island loomed up in the clouds. "On the 6th of Sept(;mber the captain judtjed that we had '.eached the lead between the Siberian and North American i)acks, and that this was a good place to (;nter. He took charije from the crow's-nest, and we entered the pack. Wc met with the youn B \ 131 • 1 II ■1'i . . , , |l i|; ' :m m m I Si i 1 238 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. lower blocks hooked to heavy ice-anchors aboui a luindrcd and titty feet distant, and set them taut in onler to keep tlic ship iipri^rht. The propeller v.as not triced up, hut was turned so that the blades would be up and down tii(.' stern- post ; the engines were tallowed, but not takcMi apart. When the ship commenced to hei;l, the local deviation of the com pass increased in the ratio of one* and a half dejrrees duration to one de<;ree of list. This was owini^ to the vast iiriionni of iron-work, and especially the canned ooods, which had to be stow(;d in the after-hold and on the quarter-deck. All onr compass observations had of course to be made on the ice well cU.'ar of the ship. At this time and later on we noticed that the turnins^ motion of the tloe or change in azimuth of the ship's head was very slow ; but the (loe did have a cycloidal motion with thc^ wind, and the resultant was in the northwest direction. "Our position was not an enviable one. At any moment the vess(;l was liable to be crushed like an egg-shell aiiion •-4 o o u •-( I U H U ase toward the southeast or southwest, as well as to the northeast. The vessel seemed to drift in a groove, which we called Melville's Canal, as he was the first to call attention to the fact. Mr. Cliipp took the soundings every morning, and by long experience we could judge of the drift so acciu'ately that his dead reckoning generally tal- lied with the observations. He adopted a scale by which 'slow' drift meant three nautical miles per day ; 'moderate,' six miles; 'rapid,' nine miles; 'very rapid,' twelve miles. He always reckoned the direction and speed of the drift and placed the ship before making the observation. His judg- ment was excellent. He and the cai)tain made frequent lunar observations for chronometer errors, but those ot the eclipses of Jupiter's satellites were the best. "February was the coldest month; and the mean for the three months was only six degrees lower than that for the fame months during the previous year. The soundings gen- erahy ran thirty-three, but one morning Mr. Dunbar sounded ir forty-four ; some called that place Dunbar Hole. We drifted over this spot once again at a later period. The ab- sence of animal life prior to May was greater than during the previous y^ar. All hands i united every day, especially as the doctor wanted fresh meat for the Indian Alexei, who was said i ■■{ %' ihc the the aid wn iiti ■■ff 1 1 1 i ,1 i 1 t 1 « IH 1 j t' .|!i 252 AUrriC KXI'I.OUAIIONS. to have tlu> scurvy, and siiHcrixl very L;rcatly fioin ;^\), sccsscs on liis leg. On May ist, Dr. AniUlcr ri'jjoricd i|,p I)liysical condition of tlu; crew rapidly tlcterioralino, aiid six or seven were placed on whiskey ami (|uinine to toiK ihcm iij). The W(?ath(T at this time was good, ami tluTe wen: no spring gales. Of course when 1 say good, it is in an Arclir sen St!. "During the month of May, old man Dunbar was always in the crow's-nest, ami got blind several times, 'j'lu; o\i\ gentleman was looking out sharj) lor land, and about the 1 6th of May he was the first to announce: it in sight. Von can imagine tlu; excitement it caused, for we had not seen land for many months and had not set foot on it for ni'arly two years. " Jeannette Island, as the new land was called, was not lancleil on, but the astronomical position of it could be, and doubtless was, well established from the data obtained by Captain DeLoiig. It was by triangulation, on the base (es- tablished by obscM'vations on dilferent days, the ship havini,^ drifted rapidly and giving a long base line, the extremities of which were established by artificial horizon and sextant obser- vations. I was conl'inc;d to my room at the time of the dis- covery, but every item of it was brought to me by Dunbar, Melville, and Chipp, and everything was so minutely dc- 3c. Ibed to me that I could almost see the land through the ship's side. " I understood Jeannette Island to be small and rocky. The southern end appeared high, and the land sloped ddwn to a low point to the northward when the island was first seen, but subsequently mountains behind the low point were ob- served, ami from this fact the island \vas adjudged to be more extensive than at first supposed. Sketches were made when- ever the island was in sight, but it would have been foolish to have attempted a journey to it, for the drift of the ship was too rapid and the state of the ice so changeable, "A few days afterwards, Henrietta Island hove in sight, and appeared extensive. The drift of the ship seemed arrested by the northeast extremity of the island. Lieutenant Chipp was sick abed with what afterwards proved to be tin poison- ing, and 1 was confined to my room with my eyes. So Mr. Melville had the good fortune to be the first to visit Henri- etta Island, and he did his work admirably. When he left the NAUUAIIVK OK I.IKl) I KNAN I DANKNIIOWKK. 253 ship tin* captain jiu1l;('c1 tlic island to Ik* Ironi twelve to fifteen miles distant, it appeared so plain, i)iit he had not yet trian- (nilalctl for it owinij;" to the slate of the weather. "The jonrney Iroin tin; ship to I lenrietta Island was one ot the hardest on record. Melville had to tnivel over inv nu'iisc; masses of broken ice that were constantly in motion, and in most easels the. doi^s were worse than useless. I !(,' laiul(;d in a state; of" exhaustion, took a short run on the island, and th(Mi ortieretl the men to turn in. I h; inteiidc^d to sleep until ten o'clock the next morniuL;-, hut was j)rol)al)ly anxious, and when Ik; turned out his w.itch said seven o'clock, but it was probably v. m. In his anxiety hv. hail slept only an hour anil a half or two hours. The men said that thi^y felt as if th(;y wt.'re just j^oini; to sleep. I'CelinL; confident, however, that they had passed the twelve hours in their slcc|)in_!4-ba^s, he finished the examination of the island and startetl back to the ship, and was surprised on his return that he had ij^ained twelve hours in time. This was not sur- prising-, from the fact that during,'' his visit to the island he did not sec the sun but once, at which time Erickson said : 'The sun is west, sir, and it is morninsj;^ with iis.' So Mr. Melville, on his return, had a sus[)icion that his time was 'out' " Durinn- this trip Mr. Dunbar broke down with snow- blinilness, and had to be carried back by the [)arty to th(; ship. On the way to the island he went ahead to scdect the road, and worked so hard and used his eyes so much that he be- caiiK; thoroug-hly disabled. The old oi:ntl('man felt very badly, it being- the first time in his Ioiil^ career that he had over been physically unequal to the occasion. 1 le begged Melville to leave him, his mortification was so great. But of course this was not done. The others bore the trip remark- ably well. They had been picked out as tlie flower of the ship's company. "There was a mountain on the island that the men named after the captain's little daughter — ' Mount Sylvie ; ' also an- other mountain, which was called ' Mount Chipp ; ' two very bold headlands were called 'Bennett Headlands;' one bald cape was called ' Cape Melville,' in honor of one of the chief engineer's characteristics. There was a low, shingle-beach cape extending to the northeast, that was called ' Point Dun- bar.' All these names were given by the sailors who rambled m If II ■ r ■ 254 arctic: kxplorations. over the island, and we liave always called thenj by the names thus originally given them. At one time the land appeared so near to us that Machinist Lee said to me : * Why, I can walk there and back, sir, before dinner.' On that day I was able to get on deck, and judged the land to be between twenty and thirty miles distant, and so I advised my friend not to try it. " Melville told me that he could not tell the distance he travelled to within ten miles, but that the lowest possible estimate was eighteen, and the highest twenty-eight miles. You see, his journey back was on a different route, because the ship had drifted and had approached the island in the meantime. He gave me every detail of his trip with great minuteness. The island was bold and rocky, with a small number of birds, principally guillemots, and very litde deer- moss on the place where he landed. But, of course, we do not know the possibilities of the extensive region to the south- west of the landing-point. "The island was covered with an ice and snow cap, and the immense glacier near the landing-place was gigantic and magnificent. I think Melville got eighteen fathoms close to the island. No seal or walrus were seen, and no traces of bears on the island. No driftwood was seen. Melville built a cairn, and buried a square, copper case containing copies of the JVeza York Herald, brought from New York by Mr. Collins, and a copper cylinder containing official documents — the latter being a record of Captain DeLong's determina- tion to stay by the ship to the last moment. He announced in them his determination to stand by the ship as long as possible, as \\^\ was in hopes of making a high latitude during the following summer. We were all very glad when Mel- ville got back, for the ice had commenced to swing around the corner of Henrietta Island very rapidly, the land to the westward of Bennett Headlands coming out rapidly, and keeping Collins and Newcomb busily sketching as the view changed." CHAPTER XVII. LIEUTENANT DANENHOWER's NARRATIVE CONTINUED. The Ship Drifting to the Northwest — The Final Moments in the Life of the Jeannette — Abandoning the Jeannette — The Ship Fills with Water and Sinks — Encamped on the Ice —Preparing for the Trav.l Southward — Bennett Island. " The ship continued drifting to the northwest rapidly until June loth. During this time the ice in which she was em- bedded began to crack, and the area of the piece was decreas- ing rapidly. We knew that the important moment was coming when the Jeannette would be liberated from this Cyclopean vice, and that her future would be more hazardous than while in the monster's grip ; for., it was impossible to shape a course, and she would be momentarily liable to be crushed by the impact of the antagonistic floe-pieces, which sent immense masses of ice into the air, and among which the Jeannette would be like a glass toy-ship in a railroad col- lision. "About eleven p. m., June loth, I was awakened by the ship's motion. It sounded as if she were sliding do»vn hill, or off the launching-ways. I was frightened for an instant, but im- mediately recovered and jumped out of bed for my clothes. The ship had slid off her bed after the ice on the port side had opened with a loud crack. There she floated calmly on the surface of the beautiful blue water. "The Jeannette was finally released from her icy fetters after an imprisonment of twenty-one months — that is, almost the entire duration of our voyage — during which time we had been drifting with the pack. The important point of this drift is that we traversed an immense area of ocean, at times gyrating in almost perfect circles, and it can now safely be said that land does not exist in that area. Of course the depth and character of the ocean-bed and the drift were also determined, as well as the ai:imal life that exists in this part of the world ; also the character of the ocean water, and (255) m js i I i * . I ■ ; r ■ I ^ ii:l 256 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. many other facts of interest which were finished with the dis- covery of the two new islands. "At this time we had a feehng of pleasure and pride that our voyage had not been entirely in vain, and we felt sure that we could add considerable to the knowledge of this region of the Arctic ; and if we could have got out safely without loss of life, the voyage would have been a grand suc- cess. Captain DeLong, in my opinion, entered the; ice boldly and deliberately, with the intention of trying the most hazardous route to the Pole that has ever been contemplated. When spoken to on the subject, within a few days after we found ourselves imprisoned, I stated that to be my opinion, and that he had undertaken the most daring and magnificent venture on record. "To return to the Jeannette. She was (loating idly, but, of course, could not proceed, being hemmed in on all sides by almost limitless masses of ice in close contact, and having only a small pool in which she could bathe her sides. The starboard half of her old cradle remained, so she was hauled into it, and secured with ice-anchors on the bow and quarter, to await her chances to escape. The rudder had been pre- viously shipped, and the screw-propeller had been found to be undamaged, so every preparation was made to move at a moment's notice. On June nth Henrietta Island was seen for the last time, to the southeast of us. "I will now describe the supreme and final moments in the life of the Jeannette. At this period of the cruise I was able to spend one hour on deck, three times a day, for exercise, the last relapse of my left eye having taken place a month previous. I went on deck at one o'clock in the afternoon, ;ind saw the hunters start out. The day was clear and l3cautiful, there was a light wind from the northeast, and in some quar- ters of the horizon it was misty and very much as in the trade-wind regions of the Pacific. A large party war. sent out to get seals and guillemots, if possible. My hour was up, but I still lingered on the quarter-deck, for the ice on the port si'le, some twenty-five yards distant, had commenced to move t'Avard us, and I was fascinated by the dangers of the situa- tion. " The captain was on deck, and immediately hoisted the hunters' recall, which was a big, black cylinder, at the main truck. They began to come in, one by one, and the la^ NilRUATIVE OF LIEUTENANT DANENIIOWER. 257 ones were Bartlett and Anequin, who were dragging a seal with them. At die time of their arrival the ice was in con- tact with the port side of the ship, and she was heeled about twelve degrees to starboard, with port-bilges heavily pressed. The two hunters approached on the port side, passed their auns to nie, and came up by a rope's end that I had thrown to them. The pressure on the ship was terrible, and we knew that she must either lift and be thrown up bodily upon the ice, or be crushed. During the whole cruise, provisions, tents, and boats with sleds, were kept ready for immediate use, and at this time every step was taken for the impending catastrophe. "About three p. m.. Machinist Lee reported the ice coming through the bunkers, and the captain immediately ordered, 'Lower away!' — men having been previously stationed at the boats' falls, and some provisions put on the ice. Melville immediately contradicted the report, and the captain delayed the order. Thus the ship lay for two hours and a half, the pressure of the ice relaxing at times and the ship almost righting. Then again she would be hove over to twenty- three degrees, and we felt sure there was no longer any hope for her, for she would not lift. There was nothing in the world to be done to assist her at that time. We had to de- pend upon her shape. She floated much higher than when we entered the pack, and that led us to hope that she would lift easier in the nip ; for the pressure of the ice would be below the point where her sides commenced to tumble home. On the starboard side, while she was heeling, the nip was felt on her timber-heads, v/hich were the weakest parts of the frame; but on the port side she was pressed below the turn of the bilge. Her fate was practically decided the moment we found she would not lift, and a large amount of provisions and clothing was then placed on the ice in readiness for the catastrophe. "One watch went to supper at half-past five, and the offi- cers had bread and tea in the cabin at six. I was on the sick- list, with eyes bandaged, but told the doctor that I could get the charts and instruments together and be of assistance. He said he would ask the captain. Each officer kept his knapsack in his room, and most of us thought it was time to have them on deck ; but we would not make the move until ordered for fear of attracting the attention of the crew, who »7 I" II m n m m ti H mi 258 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. were at work on provisions and boats. While I was ta'uncr tea, I saw Dunbar bring his knapsack up, and put it in the cabin. FeeHnij that the moment had arrived, I went for mine and at the head of the ladder on my return the doctor said to me : *' ' Dan, the order is to get knapsacks.' " It seems that he had stepped below and found water in the wardroom, which he reported to the captain, and the order was tlien given to abandon the ship. The national en- sign was hoisted at the mizzen, and Captain DeLong was on the bridge directing the work. "Lieutenant Chipp was confined to his bed. I threw my knapsack over the starboard rail, and returned for clothes, but on stepping into water, when half way down the ward- room ladder, I realized that the ship was filling rapidly. The 'doctor and I then carried Chipp's belongings out, and I was told to take charge of the medical stores, especially the liquor. The ship in this condition was like a broken basket, and only kept from sinking by the pressure of the ice, which at any moment might relax and let her go to the bottom. "The crew worked well, and Edward Star, seaman, espe- cially distinguished himself. He was doing duty at the time as paymaster's yeoman, or 'Jack o' the Dust.' The order was given to get up more Remington ammunition, and he went into the magazine when the ship was filling rapidly and succeeded in getting two cases out. This man was in Lieu- tenant Chipp's boat afterward. We always thought him a Russian, but he spoke English very well and never would speak of his nationality; but during his dreams he talked in a language that was neither l^jiglish, French, German, Swed- ish, Spanish, nor Italian, and most of the men thought it was Russian. He was an excellent man and a giant in strencrth. The captain thought a great deal of him, for he served him faithfully in every resj)onsible position. "When the order was given to abandon the ship her hold was full of water, and as she was heeling twenty-three de- grees to starboard, at the rime the water was on the lower side of the spar-deck. We had a large quantity of provis- ions on the ice about a hundred yards from the ship, but Mr. Dunbar, who was alive to the occasion, advised the shifting of these to an adjacent and rrorc fkvorabie floe-piece. It took us till eleven p. m. to effect the /'-aicnal. We also had NARRATIVE OF LIEUTENANT DANENIIOVVER. 259 three boats — namely, the first cutter, second cutter, and the whale-boat. As soon as Dr. Ambler had looked out for Chipp, he relieved me at my j30st, and I went to work with No. 3 sled party, which 1 had been detailed previously to command. The order war y;iven to camp and get coffee ; so wc pitched our tents abreast of the whale-boat, and I set about fitting out for the retreat. "VVhile waiting- for coffee I walked over to the ship to take a final look at her, and found the captain, Boatswain Coles and Carpenter Sweetman on the port side looking at her under-water body, which was hove well out of water, I ob- served that the ship's side between the foremast and smoke- stack had been buckled in by the pressure, and that the second whale-boat was hanging at the davits, and also that the steam-cutter was lying on the ice near by. Coles and Sweetman asked the captain if we could lower the second whale-boat, and the captain said ' No.' The three boats, how- ever, were considered enough; and while journeying on the ice we afterwards found Chipp's boat to be the iavorite with all hands, because she was considered short and handy, with sufficient carrying capacity for eight men. I then suggested to the men to return to camp, for the captain doubtless wish.ed to be left alone with the Jeannette in her last moments. "We three returned to the camp together, having to jump across numerous v;ide cracks and from piece to piece, and soon after the watch was set and the order given to turn in. Most of us obeyed the order promptly, and were just getting into our bags when we heard a crack and a cry from some one in the captain's tent. The ice had cracked immediately nnder the captain's tent, and Erickson would have gor .:;to the water but for the mackintosh blanket in vvliich he and the others were lying — the weight of the others at the ends keep- uv^ the middle of it from falling throui^h. The order was im- mediately given to shift to another floe-piece. This was aboi:t three hundred yards from the untenable ship. Alter al.)oiit two hours' work we succeeded in shifting all our goods and oiu- three boats to It. We then turned in. "About four o'clock I was awakened by seaman Kuehne calling his relief. Fireman Bartlett, who was in our tent. Kuehne called to Bartlett t'^at the ship was sinking, and the latter jumped to the teri -loor and saw the si)ars of the Jeannette after the hull was below the surface. We heard the '■ii M '1 ill :lli i .f I .!aii 11^ 260 ARCTIC EXI'I.ORATIONS. crash, but those were the only t\ > men wlio saw tlic \(>ssel 264 AKCTIC; EXri.OKATIONS. I'' " Wc were ordered to sleep during the afternoon of June 17th, and on th(! anniversary of the batde of Bunker Hill ^vc commenced our lony;- retreat. Chipp was on the sick-lis!, and I, with my eyes conslandy bandaged and covered, could onK- do hght duty — so the task of leading the working-pariy fcjl to IVIelville, the captain directing. Each officer and man was provided with a harness, which consisted of a broad canvas strap, fashioned to go across the chest and over one shoulder, and which had to be attached to the sled by a lanyard. "At last the order was given to break camp. The order was obeyed with enthusiasm, and the drag-rope of the first cutter was Immediately manned, Melville, Dr. Ambler, my- self, and two other men stationing ourselves on either side of the boat with harness fast to the thwarts, and then our work commenced in terrible earnest. The snow was knee deep, the road very rough, and the ice full of fissures. Through the former our feet sank easily, soon wearying the best of us ; over the fissures. If not too wide, we had to junii) the boats, and we had to drag the sled over lumps of ice tliat would have taken a whole corps of engineers to level. lUit we advanced steadily, if slowly. We reached one of the black flags that had been planted by Ice-pilot Dunbar, but seeing that he had planted another one ahead of us we pushed on with the first cutter to reach that too. This goal reached, we found that we were a mile and a half from the staitinir- place, and that it had taken us three hours to make the dis- tance. " But we, In our enthusiasm, had gone too far. It appears that the captain had only intended that we should make a single short station on the first day, but the order had prob- ably been misunderstood by Mr. Dunbar, whose only wish was that we shoidd make as good progress as possible. So we had to return ; but on our way back we found that the ice had shifted and that our original road had been entirely broken up, and so we had to leave our ded midway between the two dags and then go to the assistance of the rest. We soon found that we had been fortunate widi the first cutter. During our absence the captain, with a special detail and dogs, had attempted to advance the second cutter and whale- boat. He had launched the whale-boat across a fisr.ure, and had broken the sled in hauling her out. No. i sled, named the ' Sylvie,' had also been broken, as well as two others. ^iti:.ii' NARRATIVE OV LIEUTENANT DANENHOVVER. 265 "The ice was all in motion, and wc had a very bad out- look, with our boats and sleds at various points on tlie road. Chipp had been ordered to advance with the hospital s](;d, with Kiiehne and Alexei and thrtM- men to assist him. The sled was heavily laden, and the work was too severe for the first lieutenant in his weak state, and the result was that he fainttd from sheer exhaustion, requiring the services of the doctor to restore him. "On our first outward march, Machinist Walter Lee had fallen out of the ranks and rolled upon the ice in a<;ony with cramps in the calves of his leo-s — a result, doubtless, of his havinL,^ work(;d for so many months on the iron plates of the tire-room, oftentimes with wet feet. He was a lari^e, heavy- bodied man, and the unusual task fell heavily upon him at first. "At six o'clock in the morninu^ Uve had been in the reyion of th- midnight sun since the early [)art of May) we had ad- vanced the second cutter about three-quarters of a mile from the old camp; the whale-boat was about a hundred yards back of her. ^Several disabled sleds stood at intervals along the road, while the balance of our stock still remained in the spot where they had been placed before the Jeannette went down. It was a cold, foggy morning, and we were very much chagrined at our ineffective efforts. We had a cup of tea, then brought up everything in the rear of the position of the second cutter, and then camped down, leaving the first cutter about three-quarters of a mile in advance. Everybody voted this the harclest day's work he had ever done In his life. " For two days we stayed to repair damages, and we all concluded that the 'now or never' policy of progress was a very ineffectual one. It would have been better for us to have spent a few minutes In removing the Ice obstacles out of our way, rather than to attempt to drag the sleds over them by brute force. I did not know much about sleds and just how much spread to give the runners, but fortunately seaman Leach was from the State of Maine, and I depended on his judgment; and I may add, that our boat-sled never broke down once after he and I^artlett — an old mountaineer and Californlan traveller — had secured It. "After two days we again made a start for the south. We made slow progress, about a mile or a mile and a half a day, •1 . : *( V '!, ' lill <8>, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1.25 IM |2.5 m 2.2 1^ 1^ ^ '^ IIIIM MUu '9 '^' Photographic Sciences Corporation \ ^ « N? f# \ \ ^/-^^ i\ '"^^^^ 23 WIST MAIN STREET WEBSTBt.N.Y. MS80 (716) 872-4503 266 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. 'ii . INI I' 'i ^1 ! I i'l H over clie rough and moving floe. It was ♦^errible work for the men. They had to go over the road no less than thirt(;en times— seven times with loads and six times empty-haiuleil thus walking twenty-six miles in making an advance of only two! The empty-handed business was the worst. "On the 19th of June the captain called me into his tent and told me to go with the hospital sled because, he allefred, I could not see. I remonstrated, but without avail. I went back to my tent, naturally deeply mortified to know that thirty-three men were working for their lives, and I was not allowed to help even at the cooking, although physically I was one of the strongest men of the party. That mornintr I started with the hospital sled, which was dragged by seven dogs, driven by Erickson, the doctor and I assisting over the hummocks. We advanced over rough moving ice with (treat difficulty about half a mile, and then set up the tent for the three invalids — Chipp, Lauderback, and Alexei — to await the coming up of the rest of the party. I myself would never ^o inside the hospital tent. Thus the survivors trudged alon(r, the well heavily handicapped by die six or seven who furnished no motive power at all. Twenty-one men did all the work for the thirty-three. "At the end of the first week the captain found by obser- vation that the drift had more than neutralized the way covered by our advance; that, in fact, we had lost twenty- seven miles by the drift to the northwest in excess of our march to the south. This, of course, was kept a profound secret. "By-and-by Lauderback and Alexei got well enoui:;h to work ; and finally Mr. Chipp, after several ineffectual requests to be put on duty, was allowed to relieve Melville and take charge of the working party. Melville was put in charsre of the road gang, which consisted of Lee and seaman Johnson, with the dingy and the team of dogs. Their principal duty was to keep in position the blocks of ice that were used as temporary bridges to enable the sleds to pass safely over the fissures. We often came to wide water holes, which caused us mucii delay in ferrying over. The method of doing this was as follows : " First, a large ice piece was found ; on this the boats and sleds were placed, and then all the floating mass was drawn over by the men on the other side, who had transported them- NARRATIVE OF LIEUTENANT DANENHOWER. 267 selves across by the little tlinyfy or even on smaller ice floes. Some of these water spaces were as much as a hundred yards wide. These openings were not connected, and of course could not be used in the direction we wished to go. On many occasions the boats had to be launched and paddled across, and then hauled up again on the opposite side. Chipp took charge of this part of the work admirably, and the men were always glad to have him at their head. It was wonderful how he kept up. "As soon as the list was clear of sick the hospital tent was dispensed with, and I for many days walked after the whale- boat, but with Melville always watching me in jumping cracks and pulling me out when I fell in. I found it very difficult to judge of distances with one eye bandaged and the other covered with a dark goggle. Collins generally walked with me ; Newcomb and seaman Star followed other sledges, all of us suspended from work. Besides these the captain, Chipp, Melville, and the doctor added little or nothing to the motive power. Eight persons out of thirty-three, or twenty-five per cent, of the whole, were thus, so to speak, not working their passage across the ice. 'V^n the latter part of June the snow all melted and travel- ling was better, but the men had to wade through pools of thaw-water and their feet were constantly wet. Seaman Kaack's feet were covered with blood-blisters, but he never gave in. Nindemann and I^artlett were always the leading men in dragging the boats, each bein-'- stationed at the bow to slew them and to lift them over heavy obstructions. As die roads became better we were ablt; to advance two sleds at a time, but we would often have to jump them from piece to piece in crossing leads. Jack Cole and Harry Warren were the leading men of one party, and I^arlett and Ninde- mann of the other. The number of times passed over the s^^round was now reduced to seven, and the advance was thus very much facilitated. Mr. Dunbar used to start out, with two or three flags on his shoulder, and pick out the best road, planting his flags here and there in prominent places. The old gentleman was very careful and efficient, though the captain would often take an entirely different road — on sev- eral occasions insisting on ferrying the goods across after the ice had come together within fifty yards of us. "About the 12th of July we saw a 'whale back' that looked I n *', ,i » « I ( I- ', I i 4 268 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. very much like a snow-covered island. There had been some slight changes in the course previous to this. I think it was changed to south (magnetic), which would be about south 17 (true), for there was about 17 degrees of easterly variation. The captain then shaped the course toward the point were land was thought to have been seen. At this time we beaan to see a heavy water sky to the south and southeast, and the ice to the southwest was ntore broken and in c^^reatert motion, making travelling very difficult. About July 20th we worked nearly twelve hours in advancing 1,000 yards over small pieces of ice constantly shifting. We coiikl not float the boats. The land already men«^ioned appeared i^^reatly distorted by atmospheric effects, and indeed, until witlrn a few days of reaching it, a great many would not believe tliat it existed at all. " Our progress toward the land was very slow, but finally we could see the glaciers and water-courses upon it quite dis- tinctly. We were shaping a course toward the northeast end of the island, the drift of the ice being along the east face. At times we were forced to remain idle in our camping-place, it being quite impossible either to move over the rouc^h, broken ice, always in rapid motion, or to launch the boats. On the 24th of July we reached a point not m'^re than two miles distant from the land, but the men were so exhausted that we had to camp. Next morning we found that we had drifted at least three miles to the southward and alonir the east side of the island. "July 27th was very foggy, and we were working our way through living masses of ice, when the mist lifted a little and an immense sugar-loaf towered above us. We had been swept in by the current, and now seemed to be our chance of reaching the ice-foot of the island, which was very narrow, ruiTfred and broken, beintr asfround in nineteen fathoms of water. W^e finally got everything on one big floe-piece, and as we caromed on the ice-foot we made a rally and jumped everything upon the ice-clad beach. But before the last boats and sleds were hauled up the floe-piece drifted away, leaving them perched on the edge of the ice in a very dangerous position, and they had to be left there for some hours. Then came the difficult work of getting the boats and sleds through the very rough and broken ice-fringe alone shore. mi\^ NARRATIVE OF LIEUTENANT DANENHOWER. 269> "About six p. M. we had succeeded in reacliing' some smooth pieces near the south cape, and there we camped down, each tent being on a separate piece of floe. There was a solid brealvwater outside of us — consequently we were not in any great danger, though the blocks we were on wer*^ sometimes in motion as the tide rose and fell. At this point the sides of the island were very bold and steep, composed of trap- rock and a lava-like soil, very dry — so much so that frequent land-slides were occurring all the time we were there. Mr. Collins and I took a walk over the rough ice and along the south point of the island in order to get a view of the south side. It appeared very rugged and trended off to the west- northwest. From a high hummock we saw land to the west- northwest. "About seven p. m. the captain mustered everybody on the island. It was so steep that we could hardly get a footing. He then unfurled the beautiful silk flag that had been made for him by Mrs. DeLong, and took possession of the island in the name of the President of the United States, and called it ' Bennett Island.' This was succeeded by hearty cheers, three times three, with a good American • tiger.' There were millions of birds nesting in the cliffs, and their noise was almost deafening. I think one seal was seen, but no walrus, during our stay of nearly a week on the island. The south cape was called Cape Emma, after the captain's wife, and was in latitude 70 deg. 38 min. north, longitude 148 deg. 20 min. east. "The whaleboat was so long that in crossing hummocks the stern-post used often to receive heavy knocks and her gar- boards had been stove ; indeed, she had been shaken up so badly that she was as limber as a basket and required re- pairs, as did the other boats. The captain and doctor thought, too, that the party needed rest and change of diet — so the men were sent out to get birds and driftwood, so that we could economize on our alcohol. In a few hours they knocked down several hundred birds with sticks and stones. These were brought into camp and divided out. Their effect after being eaten was like that of young veal, and pretty nearly every one of the party was made sick, the doctor included. I used to eat half a peck of scurvy grass every day, and that kept me well. We had hnally to return to pero- mican, and were very glad to do so after such a surfeit of birds. ■It' ' it. • . . , - 1! ; Mm f 'mi •,.;hi: ^^■ \'i\ 270 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. " Mr. Dunbar and the two Indians were sent up the < ast side of the island to explore. They were i^one two days and reached the northeast j)<)int. They found th(; land on the east side was more promising than on the south, ihcy PUFFINS, AUKS. AND OTHER ARCTIC BIRDS. found several |nrrassy valleys, some old deer horns, some driftwood, and saw larore numbers of birds. Lieutenant Chipp, with Mr. Collins and a boat's crew, explored the south and west sides, and promising reports came from them. A NARRATIVK OF LlKUTKNANl' DANENIIOWKK. 271 fair quality of lignite was found in scvt^ral places. Mr. M'S- ville cxpcriincnted with it, and determined that it would be serviceable fuel for steaming; purposes. •'TIk. tidal action at tlie island was very .threat, and quite remarkable for this j)art of the world. Tlie ice outside of us was in constant motion, and seemed to be hfted n-c^uhirly witli the rise of the water. We had a tide-j^aui^e set up, and it was observed every hour by Hartlett, Nindemann, and Lee. As I remember, the greatest rise and fall was about tliree feet; they were reguhir six hour tides. We were there near the time of full moon, and the * vulgar estabhshment ' was properly establishetl. At Cape l'2mma the captain got a set of e(iual altitiules of the sun for chronometer error, but the weather was g(Mierally misty and unfavorable for such work. A box of geological specimens v/as obtained, and is now in my charge, it having been recovered from the captain's caclu;, near the moutii of the Lena. The doctor was very enthusiastic about certain amethysts, opals, and petrifactions that he had ob- tained ; these are probably lost. "While on the island I observed that the sea to the south and west was freer from ice than that to the eastward, and that water clouds to the northwest were very common ; and it occurred to n\e that in good seasons a vessel could reach the island, which might form a good base for explorations farther to the north. "We left Bennett Lsland about August 4th. We were then fifty-three days out from the place where the Jean- nette had sunk. We were fortunate enough in being able to launch our boats and to make better progress in the cracks between the floes. But we still had to keep our sleds for a short time longer. Some of the dogs rendered us very important services; but about half the number were nov/ disabled by famine and weakness. We had forty originally, but about sixteen had died, or had been killed by the others during the two winters in the ice. After the stock of dog- food gave out, and owing to the scarcity of game, there were long periods of starvation for the poor brutes. Kach man had a favorite animal, and would share his own rations with him; but this was not sufficient. At Bennett Island we still had, I think, twenty-three left, and the day before leav- ing eleven of the poorest of these were shot. We took the remaining twelve in the boats, but in passing close to bi^ I.) ). { 1, n i .' \ 272 AiuMu: kxi'Lokaiion;;. floc.-piccos these j^ave us .1 i^rcal deal of troiihle hy juMiitinn out aiul niMiiiiu^ away. I'liially, I'riiuc anil Sium)/(| vvcrc the only two that hail sense eiioiij^h to remain hy ns. " l'\>r the next eiijhtetMi days we were working* 1m i\V( en floe pieces, ami sometimes inakins^ as much as ten nnh ., a day on our course to the southwest. Several times a d.iv we wouKI hav<' to haul the l)oats out. anil make portages .k loss the iarije lloc'-j)ieces that l)arreil our proL;ress. I his was very severe work. We had at this time retained only thd boat sleds, having left the provision sleds and all sup( ilhions articles on a lliv piece ahout Auj^iisi ()th. We now worked tluriui; the day ami slept during the nii;ht. "At lU'nnett Island the doctor, who helon^^cd to my hoat, had been transferred to the caj)tain's, and Mr. Melville was placed in charj^c of mine — that is, the whale boat. I was ordered to remain in tlu« boat as a passenj^ir, ami to assist in emergencies. I always carried my own I'a^j^aL^c, and assisted whenever possible. Dunbar was detailed wiih Chipp. *' Wo made very good progress until about August 201)1. On that day the leads W(;re very open, and we ihout^iu we were all right. The wind was Iri^sh and favorable ; tlu- I'lrst cutter and whale-boat, which lollowed closely, passeil salely through great quantities ol ice, but the second cutter was in the rear, and became jammed by the lloe-pieces coming together very suddenly, and Chipp had to haul out and transport his boat about a mile in order to get her alloat again. \n man)' cases a passage was obtained by pryino the floe-pieces apart ; but several times these sprang hack. thus cuttinir off tlie advance of the second cutter. Il was very hard and slow work, but mucii better than dragging tiie sleds over the ice. "The delay caused by getting Chipp's boat afloat was very fatal to us. for the wind shifted suddenly ami we were forced to camp after waiting for him several hours. The ice jainincd up during the night so that we had to remain there ten days without being able to move. Then land came in sight, and we seemed to be drifting along the north face of an island which the captain at first thought was New Siberia, but it was afterward found that we were drifting along the north coast of Thaddeoifsky. We drifted along this coast until August 28th, when, at last, we were again able to make a move. We l.,« .'i: NAUUAIIVr, ()!• i.ii:tiii:NANr DANINIIoWKR. 27.1 call(*la(<- the W'u Day ('.iini), I»iii w«- had usrd tin; ilclav in makiii'L^ repairs, and tlw food had Ix'cn disfrihiitrd p(;re- tvvccn N<'W Silx'ria and 'l'hadut six brace; of ducks, which were very w(dcome. That nii^ht we tried to land, but after several ineffectual efforts s^ave up the attemi^t, as the wat(;r was too shoal for our boats. "The followini; is a detailed description of tJie boats, with lists of persons attach (;d to each : "Firs} Cutter. — The Captains Boat. — Captain DeLon^, Ur. Ambler, Mr. Collins, Nind(;mann, Krickson, Gortz, Noros, Dressier, Iverson, Kaack, Boyd, Le(;, Ah Sam, Alexei. "Extreme lenirski Island. Septeinher i i ih, by Nindemann. "S ■(<>//,/ ()////•/: — Lieiiien.mt ('ln|)|), l)iinl'ar, Swecinin,, Star, Warren. Knehne, Johnson. Sharvell, " I'Atrenie len^'lh, id It. .^ in.; hreatllh, 5 ft. 1 in.: d' pih, 2 It. 6 in.. Iroin lo|) ol "Minwah- lo top of keel; clinkci- hnjlt eoppiM lasieneil, a very l> id si<'utenant Danenliowcr, Neweonil), Cole, I. each, Mansen, Wilson, liartlelt, l.audcr- baek. Charles l\>nj4 Sini;, Ane(|uin. " IvMreme length, 25 It. 4 in.; breadth, 5 ft. 6 in.; d(|)ih, 2 It. 2 in., IroMi top ol gunwale to t<>p ol keel; clinker htiilt, copper (asteneil. tliawin^; about 24 inches when loaded, this beiii" caused by tlu* heavy oak keel-piece, similar to those ol the tirsi and si'conil cutters. ./lu^ luul one mast and one (lip- pi'VU" '^\^ ^''^'l' «^'i^' ^^'^"^ lilleil with weather ckavs about Sc])- tember 1 i th. The masti>r boatd)uilder at Mare Islanil told mt! that she was one ol the best laslem^d boats that he had ever seen, anti our e.\perienci; proved it ; for the racket she stooil on the journey over the ice was almost incredible. The plans of the boats I s^ot from Carpenter Swectman at Kolelnoi Iskmd. September 4th, iSSi. " Ihe cai)tain decided to work alonq; the shoal that lies be- tween ThaiKleoffsky antl Kotelnoi Islands. Th< re was a moderati' wind from the eastward, and the captain tried to keep close in, in about four feet of water. The result was that the llrst cutter was constantly Qroundiup-, and then laboriously sjettin^ off auain. We continued on our course to the southward, the captain's boat i^ettinc;- in breakers at one time and calliniL^^ for our boat to pull him out. There was not much ice at the time, and it was decreasinjif. One day, about noon, we ran throuorh a liiu^ of drift ice, and the whale- boat struck on a toncfue that was under water. She be<;an to fill rapidly, and we had to haul her out, but not before she was two-thirds full could we reach a suitable ice piece. The NAKKATIVK OK I.FKUTrNANT DANKMloWKK. 27f) ,)\ii" li.ul \)rr\\ knockrd oiii, I)iit sln' h;ul Mi.laiind no oiln-r ilaiii.i""'. I l)at altciiioon \v«' passed ihroiiidi a lar;.^r vvalrr •|,.i(c sivcral s(|iiar<' miles in an-a, with a lieavy sea ninriiiif. W'c WIT'" sleerini^ de.id Ixlore ili«; wind. Iiavini; !<» lollnw ii) tlic w.xkr ol l\\r (aplain, and it. was very difficnit lo Ip to have assisted ns, and had another sea hoanlcd us not a man of our parly would have been s.ivcd. "The vvc^ather was very cold. Two hours afterward wc met tli(! ice, amoUL; which we made our way. Chij)p's hoat was still astern and in the water-hoh-, and w(.' wen; very anx- ious ahout his salety. Tin; captain hauled up ahout scvcmi 1'. M.. and camped with us. 'Vhr. next day the 'L;ale was still l)l()\vinL,^ and Chipp's hoat still missin!^^ so ahout six i'. m. the captain hoisted a iJack lla'^'. "On tlu; lollowin'^day Iiarll(;tt reported that the ic(; was closiiiL,^ aroimd us, and that it w(; did not mov(; we should Ix; shut in. Two hours alt(;rward all outlets \v«r(; dosed. Land was also in sii^ht at this time, Ikmul^ Kotelnoi Island. I'jickson was the fnst to sec Chij)p's boat, and j)resently vvc saw two men makini^^ their way over th(.* lloe and jumpinij across tilt: obstructions. It was Chipp, with Kuehne. His boat had been nearly swampc^d, and in a sinking: condition he had reached a piece of ice anil manai^cd to haul up. .Star was the only man with his boat at that time who could walk ; the odiers required ten or fifteen minutes to j:jet uj) circula- tion ill their benumbed limbs. The captain had previously given written ordt.-rs that in case of separation each boat should make the best of its way to Lena River, but he had recommended touchino^ at Kotelnoi Island. Chij)p had for- tunately decided to follow these instructions, because he had not his allowance of food. We ourselves had been on half 1' ' t:^ I i i.rt» 276 AK< lie i:xi'i,- all the time to i)rt:vent the boat from filling and sinking. 'IT.i; drag, having been com- pleted, was placed forward of the mast in readiness for use. I had the drag rope coiled down clear for running. The men were very weary. There were only two seamen in the boat who would pull in a seaway, the others being inexperienced, except the helmsman. I had been watching the seas for a long time, and had noticed that tiiey ran in threes, and that there was a short lull after the third and heaviest one. I had the men detailed as follows : Wilson and Mansen at the oars, keeping them peaked high above the sea. Cole at the hal- yards 10 lower sail, Anequin and the steward to gather the I I, iJ 28o AKCriC EXI'LORAIIONS. ryiir (■■ ^li ill :!l* ■'H ■ ■ ' sail, Bartlctt to launch the drai^, and Leach at the helm. ] gave preparatory orders very carefuil)' — at the words Lower away!' to put the helm iiard-a-str rboarti, lower sail and y the priest, and I woiihl br sure to he sale if I wop, it. 1 did not liavc inurh laitii in ihis, hovvcxc r, hut I showed it to tho nativrs, and tiicy kissed it (h-voiitly. " It was the only arlieh^ in tlie possession of the p;n-i\, in, (h'ed. that intliiMteil to the natives tliat \vt; were C'lii ishiiiis, N'ou ean iinaL^iiu' onr technics at nieetiiiL; thes(^ peo|i|i', lor they wvvc tile lirst strangers w lioni we had seen lor nioic tjian twoye.irs; and I ncvtM- helore lell so thanklui to nussionanVs as 1 ihd on that day at rMuhnj; that \\c. were ainonu; C'hn uiaii natives. " We indicateii to the thnv^ natives that we wanted lo slicp, by niakin;^ si^^ns, ami restini^' the heail u|)on the hand aiul ;;norin!^. Thes- nnderslood us, and took us around the point where wi! hail liauled our boats upon the sand beacii, ami tlieii eliinbed a hill which was \vnn\ sixty to seventy Icet liiL;li. This was at tlu! mouth of a small branch olihe Lena, aiul wc have since learned this to i)e on Capi; Horchaya, saiil to be about iMoJity-livi" miles noitlnvest of Cape Bykotfsky. 'I'hcrc we found four houses and several stt. rehouses, all descried but one, which was in very oo<><^l cond.iLion. There was a oraveyard near by, with many crosses. Wc all lotl^x.'d in the one house. "Tiu? natives were very kind to us; they hauled tlieir nets ami brouo'ht us tish. juirts of which they roasted before the fire, i;ivino' us the most delicnti' morsels. Some of tin; fish wc boiled, and alto^cth' r W(! had a very enjoyai)l(; iiual. Then I noticed that Caranie (one of th(^ natives) had j^one away, leaving- only the youth, whom w(> called lomat. and the invalid, whom we calleil Theodore. I'"rt)m Carani(;'s absence I aroucd that there must hr. other natives near by, and that Caranie had i;onc to inform them of our presence. " Next mornino-, while the men weri; loatlin^- tin; boat, I took the compass aa<.l oot some bearinii^s of the sun for local time, direction of the wind, and o-eneral lay of the land. Previous to this 1 hail interviewttd Tomat, who dnnv a diagram on the sand sliowinq; the course of tlu; river, and that tlu; distance to Biilun was seveti sleeps, which he indicated by snoring; deeply when he pointed to each stoppin;^ place. He appeared per- fectly willino^ to i^o with us as pilot to Bulun. " On my return, Melville asked me to hurry up, as h'' wanted to get off. I was surprised, and asked where the other native 1. ' lets lisll cal. the •iicc iat lOok me, Ions the to r'piy |)er- ted ive il •_> A Pi c4 A A ni t: (-«7) 288 AKC:iK- KXI'l.OKATIONS. :-u3 w>i- 'I was. MclvilUr replied that lie had left, havinjj refused lo the mud-llats for our boats, whicli at this time drew about twenty- six inches. We worked all day to the southward and < ast- ward, and about eij^ht o'clock i*. m. hauled out on a flat Ixach and camped lor the nij^ht, Wassili jjivinj^ us fish for supper. The weather was v('ry cold and raw, with a strong- hicczo blowintr, and our pilot was very anxious about the stale of the river, fearinj^ thcit we wouKI be stop[)ed by younj; lee at any moment. "The next morninj^ the banks were frinj^t^d with younj; ice, but this v/e broke our way throuijh and continued our (ourse up the river. After the sun came out, the ice melted, and we worked all day through a labyrinth of small streams. passinj^ several huntinj^-lodoes. At ni<;ht we slept in two liouses on shore, and next morninj^ we entered a larjje hotly of water which we thought was the main river. About noon we reached a point of land on which there was a deserted village of about six well-built houses and a number of store- houses. Wassili took us to a house and told us to couchc, or eat. I noticed that one of the natives went away in his canoe. I then look a look at the villaofe. The houses were in good repair, and there were numerous troughs for feeding' doers, and cookinir utensils in them. The doors were not locked, but those of the storehouses were well secured with heavy iron padlocks of peculiar shape. " Things looked more promising now, and I felt sure that the winter occupants of these houses could not be far off. During this resting spell I examined Leach's and Lauder- back's feet and limbs. Leach's toes had turned black, and Lauderback's legs were in a fearful condition, being gready swollen and having large patches of skin broken. We dressed them as well as we could with some pain-extractor that I happened to have along, and when that gave out we used grease from the boat-box. "In about an hour a boat appeared in sight, and a number of people disembarked and entered a house near us. A few minutes later, Wassili came and asked Melville and me to go with him. He conducted us to the house, where we shook hands with an old native named Spiridon, who had two very hard-looking women with him, each of whom had lost the NAKRAilVK OK l.IKU TKNANT DANKNIlDWKk. !9I left ey<'- They served tea to us, how * I i '':■ ■■m il-' ' 296 ARCTIC EXPLOUATIONS. Kusmah had better go alone. Kiismah acquicscotl, but on the foUowiiiiT Friday we were surprised to It^arn that he was goiiiL; to take Nicolai Shagra with him. I have not nun- tioned tliat the second day after our return lo tlie vilhu-o, Nicolai came to us and wanted a written paper from us, whrdi he promised lo forward to Bulun at the earhest ot)portuiiity. I wrote a paper in luighsh and French, which Wilson put into Swedish, and Lauderljack into (ierman ; and all fourwrsions of this document, together with a picture of the siiip ami a drawing of the American Hag, were sewed up in oil-skin and given to Nicolai, who handed them to his wifi.-, and that i^ood woman put them into her cupboard lor safe-keeping. They were never forwarded. Subse(iuently Melville and 1 pic- pared despatches for the Minister at St. l*etersburg, lor tiic .Secretary of the Navy, and for Mr. James Gordon Bcnm^tt; l)ut Melville sent nothing by Kusmah. "The day after we arrived it was decitled that I sJiouM iro to Bulun, as I was in the best physical contlition and the most available person, luir more than two weeks my projected trip was talked about by us and by the men. I was to hrincr back food and decM" sUhIs for the whole party, and also to take the desj^atches whicii we had prepared. After my re- turn from Kusmah's house, however, Melville decided di;it Kusmah should go alone, and as he promised to be back in five days he decided not to send any despatches by him. but to take them himself. He seemed to think that Kusmah ()uo;ht to .get there and back cpiicker if he went alone, and was very much disappointed when he learned that Nicolai Siiagra went with him. " This man Kusmah was a robber, who had been exiled there and was dependent upon the natives in a great measure. He could not leave his home without official permission ; but he took the responsibility in this emergency, and evidendy had to have somebody to back him and to assist him as a witness, and he therefore, very naturally, took with him the chief of the natives, though he first proposed to take me. Me said that it made no difference in time if one should accom pany him. "The next morning I told Melville that before Kusmah left he should be particularly enjoined to spread the news of the two missing boats among the natives everywhere he went, and I said I would like to run over to his house to give him NAKKATIVl-: OF LIKUTF.NANT DANKNIIOWER. 297 , but oil lu> was ot mcn- vilhii)e, IS, which ortunity. put into v^Tsioiis p aiul a -ikiu and lial >^(K)d I. Thoy (\ 1 \)r(]' ^ tor tlie Hcmu'.tt; houhl _o;o the most projected to l)ring d also to ;r my re- ed that back in lim. but ah ought and was Shagra tn exiled measure, ion ; but MUly had witness, ic chief ^ic. Me acconi- Imah left rs of the he went, Hve him tlijse orders. Midville consented. I went down to Nicolai Shagra's to ^^at a doi; team, and wbile there Spiridon hove in siglil with a line: team ol nine doq;s. 1 immediately took possession of liim and bis team, anil drove over to Kusmab's house, where I had a lonj^ interview, diirin^Lj which I went over the charts with him ai^ain. On this occasion lie told me positively that Harkin was only lifty versts northeast of his house, and I immediately determined to <;o there to seek for traces of the missing boats. I w(;nt l)ack to Melville and told him what 1 wanted to do. I b; did not assent to the proposal at first, but finally a<^n-e(;d. Whih; at Kusmab's I wrote a line to my brother in Washini^^ton, and ^^ave it to Kusmah to mail at Bulun. My eye would not permit writing; much. "I took my rifle and sleepin^-ba^-, put them on Sf)iridon'R sled, and pointed toward his village. Me seemed very much astonished, but finally obeyed, and starteil homeward. On reachini;- his house I had a consnlialion with him and Caranie, and tried to get them to consent to take me to liarkin next morniuL^. Hut they said that the hoos-byi'al — that is, posh-ice — would prevent them from .uoiiiLj^, and that it was impossi- ble to go there at that timi; of the year. We then iiad sup- per, after which I huntetl iij) old Cut-eared Wassili, and he consented to take \\\v to Kahoomah, which Kajnican said was to the northwest of us. If I could not go to Harkin, I was ol?d at any rate to go to the northwest to search in that quarter and to spread tlui news. "The next morning Wassili, Kapucan, and I started with twelve dogs for Kahoomah. We first went down a little river to the southeast, and the young ice broke in many places, letting the dogs and sled into the shallow water. I was surprised at the southeast course, for Kapucan had told me that Kahoomah was to the northwest. After thinking a few moments I concluded that Kahoomah must be the Tun- guse name for Kusmah, and that surmise proved to be cor- rect. They took me back to Kusmab's bouse, where they had another talk, and tlien agreed to try to take me to Harkin. I set up the compass, and Kusmah pointed to the northeast, saying that Barkin was only fifty versts distant in that direction, but that we would have to iro first to the south- east and then swing round to the northward. " We had ti> wait all night for another sled from our village. 298 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. i I I 1^ ; 1 i ■fliiii ,if ■ i ■ !' I ■ ': i.: ^'' It came next morning, and then we started to the southeast. About eleven o'clock we came to a big river riinninn- north, and I noticed that old Wassili looked up the stream very anxiously and thoughtfully. I set up the compass, and whcMi the needle came to rest the natives sung out with dtilioht and surprise, 'Tahrahoo,' and pointed toward the south vnd of the needle. I insisted, however, on going north, but the old iii^n said it was impossible, on account of boos-byt'al or posh-ice. I then decided to let him follow his intentions and see what they were. "About 4 p. M., after having travelled over a region cov- ered with driftwood, we reached a small hut situated near a bold headland, and the island that they call Tahrahoo was about three miles off shore. They said they would take nic there the next morning. At this time another sled hove in sight; it was driven by an oA man named Dimitrius, who had been sent after us by Kusmah, with a kettle and a tt.a-pot for me. Wassili and I went upon the hill about sunset, and had a good view of the river and the adjacent island. He indi- cated that the steamer Lena had entered there, and that there might be some signs of boats on the adjacent islands; but I told him that I wanted to go round the headland and to the northward. But both old men insisted that this would be impossible., " The next morning, to satisfy me, they started toward the island, the two old men and myself going in advance, to test the young ice. About a mile offshore the ice was black and treacherous, and so unsafe that the old men refused to go any farther. So we had to turn back and return from a fruit- less search. It demonstrated, however, that what the natives said was true — that the ice was not strong enough for travel- ling. The second night we slept at Kusmah's, and then re- turned to Geemovialocke. "At the end of five days Kusmah had not returned, and it waj not until October 29th that he put in an appearance, after an absence of thirteen days. On his way back, at Ku- mak Surka, he had, however, met with the two men of the captain's party, Noros and Nindemann, who had written a brief statement about the condition of the captain's party. They gave it to Kusmah, and he hastened to bring it to us. He told us that the men were to have reached Bulun the previous day (October 28th) ; so Melville immediately NARRATIVE OF LIEUTENANT DANENIIOVVER. 299 started with old Wassili and dog teams, to find the men and learn the position of the captain's party and carry food to them. He gave me orders, which he afterward put in writing, to take charge of the party and get it to Bulun as soon as possible. "On November ist, the Bulun commandant, a Cossack, named Gregory Miketereff Baishoff, came to us widi a good supply of bread, deer-meat, and tea. He handed me a long (locuinent addressed to the American Minister at St. Peters- burg, and signed by Noros and Nindemann. It contained some details of the captain's position, but was not definite enough to allow me to start immediately to their relief Be- sides, I knew that Kumak Surka was nearer to Bulun than to us, and that Melville, after seeing the men, could get to the captain much quicker than we could ; so I immediately de- spatched the document to Melville, by special courier James H. Bartlett, fireman, vho was the best man of the party at that time. The commandant at the same time had tiie fore-. sight to appoint a rendezvous at which he and I should meet Melville on his vvay north. H^ also sent a letter to a subor- dinate, ordering him to equip Melville for the journey. This man was a non-commissioned officer of Cossacks, and he acted with great intelligence and good judgment. He was a tall, fine-looking man, with black side whiskers, forty-two years of age. "Bartlett started that night with a deer team, and was likely to get to Bulun only a few hours after Melville, because the latter had taken the dog road, which was 240 versts long, while the deer road was only eighty versts across country. The commandant had come by the deer ruad, thus missing Melville. I told the commandant that he must get us to Bulun as soon as possible, but he was rather non-committal, and would not state a definite time for starting. "That night I slept uneasily and was awake by four o'clock next morning. Efim was up, and I asked him where he was jjoing. He 2»aid that he was going with the commandant to Arrhue, the village where Spiridon and Wassili lived. I told him to tell the commandant to come to me immedi- ately. I thought I would try a high-handed game with this Cossack commandant, and it worked admirably. He came to me about five a. m., in uniform, and I told him that if he did not get us clothed and started by daylight next morning 300 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. r.>.\ m m ■:). m:r ':rr' ;■' ^il': i I would report him to General Tchernieff and have him punished ; but that if he did well and got us ready he would be handsomely rewarded. He accepted the situation t^ravely and said ' Karasclio,' which meant 'all right.' I invited him to sleep with us the next night ; and the next morniiicr^ ac daylight, fourteen dog teams, with about two hundred dotrs, were assembled at our village, and the natives brought us an ample supply of skin dlothing. This was Thursday, No- vember 3d. "We started for Bulun, and on Saturday met Melville at Kumak Surka Serai, which is the first deer station. I had a long consultation with him, and he told me that there was no possible hope for the captain's party, but that he and the two natives were going to the spot where Noros and Nindemann had left him, and also to the Arctic Ocean to look for relics. He told me, further, that he had left written orders at Bulun for me to proceed to Yakutsk with the whole party. I will here state that his orders to me were given by virtue of a written order from Lieutenant DeLong which placed him [w command of my boat, and all persons embarked in the boat were made subject to Melville's orders and directions. This I knew to be unlawful ; but, as the captain was the highest naval authority at the time, I had nothing to do but to obey. And so I had accepted duty under Melville from the time of the separation, because I considered that it was my duty, under the circumstances, to do so. "We arrived at Bulun on Sunday, and the commandant in- formed me that we must remain until the following Saturday. I found written orders from Melville telling me to proceed to Yakutsk with the whole party as soon as possible, and there await his arrival ; but he told me verbally at Kumak Surka Serai to leave Bartlett at Bulun. "As transportation farther south could be provided for only six of the party, I took the five weakest men and started for Verkhoyansk, leaving the other six to follow when Melville should return. I left written orders with Bartlett to start a search party out for Melville in case he did not return by November 20th. The resources of Bulun were very limited, it being only a village of about twenty houses ; and our pres- ence there made fearful inroads on their winter stock. We travelled by deer sled to Verkhoyansk, a distance of 900 versts. Thence to Yakutsk by means of deer, oxen and NARRATIVE OF LIEUTENANT DANENHOWER. 301 horses, a distance of 960 versts, reaching the latter place De- cember 17th, 1881, where we were well taken care of by Gen- eral Tchernieff, the governor. About December 30th Mel- ville arrived at Yakutsk, and soon afterward the other six men came on. On New Year's day the thirteen survivors of the Jeannette were all present at Yakutsk. The most of us were in good condition, but my left eye was completely dis- abled, and the right one was suffering by sympathy. One man was insane and had to be kept under restraint, and Leach was disabled slightly with frozen feet. "Melville started north from Yakutsk January 27th, taking with him Bartlett and Nindemann — Nindemann because he was one of the men who had last seen the captain, and Bart- lett because he had picked up a little Russian and could get along first rate with the natives. Most of the men would have been worse than useless, because they could not have made themselves understood, and would have had to be waited on by the natives. "At Yakutsk Melville received the first despatch from the Secretary of the Navy, which ordered him to send the sick and frozen to a milder climate. So he ordered mc to pro- ceed with the whole party to Irkutsk, and thence to the At- lantic seaboard. At Irkutsk I received despatches from the department ordering me to remain and continue the search, but I was quite unable to do so. After the long excitement of our life in the north my eyes began to trouble me more and more, and having got cold in them during the sledge journey from Yakutsk to Irkutsk, I was compelled to seek professional advice. The two oculists whom I consulted told me that my left eye was ruined and should be taken out to prevent the right one from being constantly affected ; that I should not read or write, and should not leave here until the right eye was in a better condition. The reports of the ocu- lists about my right eye were at first very encouraging, and that was why I proposed to the department to charter the steamer Lena, in order to make a spring search for Chipp. I also asked foi* two officers to be sent to assist, thinking that if my right ey a broke down there would then be somebody here to take my place. " Melville told me every detail of his trip of twenty-three days from Bulun. He says he has traced the captain's party as far as a summer hunting station called Sisteranek, on the r ^f! i ,.q-.;i I'-'.' m 302 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. west bank of the Lena, and that the party must be some- where between that station and Bulcour, neither of which places is marked on the ordinary map. They had been two days without food when Noros and Nindemann left iluin, and the region is devoid of game and inhabitants. Tlu.' men had insufficient clothing, and there is no reasonable hope. •' I think Chipp's boat swamped during the gale, for she nearly did so on a previous occasion, and was a very bad sea boat. If he succeeded in reaching the coast he had less food than the other boats, and his chances of life were therefore worse than the captain's party. If his boat swamped she would probably con^e to the surface after the bodies floated out ; she had not sufficient weight in her to keep her down. The specific gravity of pemmican is nearly that of water, and we found that some of the canisters, which probably con- tained air space, would actually float. The sleepino-bajTs, when water soaked, would be the heaviest weight in tiie boat, and these were probably thrown overboard in the gale. The northeafit winds continued two days after the gale, and Chipp's boat may have drifted ashore near the mouth of the Olenek, if not carried to the northeast as the driftwood seems to be —that is, to the New Siberian Islands." CHAPTER XVIII. RELIEF EXPEDITIONS FOR THE JEANNETTE. First Cniise of the Corwin, 1880 — Search for missing Whalers and the Jeannettc — Kings Island — Wrangell and Herald Land in Sight — Second Cruise of tlie Corwin, 1881 — Plover Bay — Exploring Wrangell Land — Search-Expedition of the Rodgers — The Ship Burned— Expedition of the United States Steamer Alliance to Hammerfest and Spitz- bergen — No Tidings of the Jeannette. When the North Pacific whaHng fleet of 1879 had returned from their cruise later than usual, without bringing any word of the Jeannette, and it was further learned that two of their number, the Mount Wollaston and the Vigilant, had not been seen later than October loth, and then in the same region where the Jeannette had been last seen, much anxiety began to be felt for the ships. In the following month of May the Revenue Steamer Corwin, Captain C. L. Hooper, was ordered to proceed from San Francisco on a cruise in the waters of Alaska, and to afford assistance to the ships if they should be fallen in with. The Corwin arrived at Ounalaska after a rough passage of twelve days, sailing from which port June 8th, and touching at St. Paul's, lat. 57° 5', long. 169° 51', she shaped her course for Cape Romanzoff, and at daylight of the nth first struck the ice north of Kounivak Island, lat. 60° N., long. 160° W. The heavy pitching and grinding along the edge of the pack made it unsafe to attempt to force the way, and the Corwin anchored in a fair harbor until the going down of the gale on the 13th. After working about twenty miles through leads, picked out from time to time, on the 15th Captain Hooper found himself utterly helpless, drifting with the pack southward and eastward about two miles per hour. At 8 a. m. he was in only five fathoms of water among grounded ice, which gave the vessel sharp nips, trying her strength. At one time the Corwin was lifted up bodily several feet, and held suspended for some minutes ; coming in contact with one, " stern on,' the rudder was forced over, the screw steering gear carried away, and the wheel (303) i : ■ i I 304 ARCTIC EXrLORA'nONS. chains partcil. Happily tlic rudder stock, which was of the best Oregon oak, stood the strain, althoujrh lor a lime it seemed as if nothin*^ could save it. On the 16th th(; ship continued to drift hclph'ssly all day. On the 17th a sharp northeast *;ale brok(! up the ur and started it off shore, allowing; the Corwin to proceed low aids Norton Sound and St. Michael's, where she was again de- tained se'veral days. ,„<|fi^:-^ -j^*^' ir. IN A "LEAD" IN AN ARCTIC ICEFIELD. iil'': ■ - '|! On the 28th the Corwin entered the Arctic Sea ; on the 30th she made two whalers, one of which had communicated wiJ;h the natives at Point Hope, but could learn no L;ood tidino^s there. Followincr the ice-pack around from Cape Serdze Kamen, she le*arned from the natives and whalers without exception that in their opinion nothingr would ever be heard of the Mount Wollaston or the Vicrilant. They were reported as last seen by Captain Bauldry of the Helen Mar RKLIKK KXTKUirioNS KOR TIIK JKANNK riK. 305 of New Bedford, forty mil(;s south(uist of I Iar U-dd be- tween the grounded and the drift-ice, and made an examina- tion of the shore line. At 2.30 a. m., all hands having returned to thv. vessel, she cast off from tin; ground-ice and "jtcanied through the drift, toward clear water, which was reached about 6.30 a. m. The Corwin was also the first to land here; the lu'st of explorers to aj)proach, indcu'd, v(!ry near this island, the bearings of which were afterward so fully determined by Lieutenant Berry, U. S. N., of the Rod- gers. From this first exploration of Wrangell Land, Captain Hooper crossed over to Point Barrow, where he; found a part of the crew of the whaler Daniel Webster, whose captain, not having been familiar with Arctic navigation, had remained in a lead just half an hour, long enough to have his ship crushed. Nine of the crew who had escaped to the shore were taken aboard the Corwin, others having gone overland to Icy Cape. August 24th, the cutter had again made a distance of 600 miles, arriving in Plover Bay, where was found the (Jolden Fleece, with Lieutenant Ray, of the U. S. A. Signal Service, on his way to establish a meteorological station at Point Barrow. On the 27th the Corwin sailed to the northward, and soon li :i 3o8 ARCTIC EXI'LOKATIONS. .f-'i ll¥\ \U '. ''i i !:1 » li S' l> I ■:i-5 after a^ii-ain siLT-hted the blue peaks of Wranu-ell Laiul, stand- ing along the ice-pack from which she neared Herald Island but, in a fierce gale that lasted several days, lost her iron ice- breaker, and. as the oak sheathing which had protected th(; soft Oregon plank around her bows was also entirely oone, the captain could not again venture into the ice. After cruis- ing eastward into the vicinity of Kotzebue Sound and Mothain Inlet, and at St. Michaels receiving on board a second party of shipwrecked men, the cutter went on her way to San Fran- cisco, where she arrived October 21st, 1881. On the 1 6th day of June, 1881, the steamship RodL^ers. Captain Berry, formerly the Helen and Mary, started from San Francisco on a. cruise for the Jeannette. In addition to the very large amount of stores and pemmican purchased from the remainder of the Jeannette search expedition appro- jiriation. the ship had received three years' full navy rations, ample for thirty-five officers and men for five years. The Rodgers safely arrived at Wrangell Island a second time on .September 2 2d, and on September 27th Captain Berry turned south for winter-quarters, and arrived at St. Lawrence Bay on the 1 6th day of October. The preparations for the winter were unfortunately kept back by continued bad weather, which prevented the transfer to the shore of a large part of the provisions and supplies. November 20th, Fjisign Hunt started up the coast with a dog-team, to visit the camp of Master Putnam, but was com- pelled by severe storms to return to the ship. In tb'" morn- ing of November 30th, the startling cry of fire was hciad on board the Rodgers, issuing from the hold, which was -p c'o^ely filled with stores that it was next to impossible to gc' vater into it. By 4 p. m. some of these had been secured, the: men working in the smoke and carbonic acid gas below decks; the boats being loaded, the ship was abandoned at midnight. She drifted up the bay, rigging and sails on fire, and her magazine exploded in the early morning. The cause of the fire could not be learned ; it was probably from spontaneous combustion, or from the firing of the deck underneath from the donkey-boiler. In a camp formed of overturned boats, sails and tents, officers and crew found a shelter from a violent snow-storm; next morning a party ol natives from the village Noomamoo, seven miles off, came to offer a hospitable refuge in their huts, ;'S;1 REi-IEF liXl'EDlTluNS FOR THE JEANNKl JE. 309 and the party, after a fatiguing tramp, were distributed among- the eleven homes which made the settlement, making the uncoiiilortable exchange of ship life to a winter's siege on walrus and blubber. Afterward the officers and crew were ArTACKKD BY WALRUS. divided into four parties, and scattered in three other villages within a radius of twenty miles. Natives communicating the news of the burning of the ship to Putnam, he started south with four loaded sledges for their 5!' ' El'i J . i 1 -M fii 1 1; I' Mi mm 111; i'-i't:" - tttt'. t t). ' -*ilUtli ' 1, 310 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. relief, meeting Lieutenant Berry, who was on his way to Mas- ter Putnam's camp. The latter had been left near Caoe Serdze, to explore the coast in search of tiie Jeannette. Con- tinuing his trip under orders, he delivered his provisions on January 4th, and on the loth started on his return accom- panied by Hunt, Zane, Castillo, and three natives, driving his own team of nine dogs. In an attempt to face a heavy gale, probably not having the ability to control tlie doers, or not being aware of the abrupt deviation from the course taken by the other sleds, he missed hi? way in crossing the bay and drifted out to sea on an ice-floe. An immediate hunt wiiicli was entreated of the i' atives, was not permitted tiiat nicrht by the violence of the gale, and the wind unhappily detached the ice from the shore, and carried it to sea ; next morninrr all was clear water. On the 14th and on the 17 th the search was renewed along the shore thirty miles, but no good news was heard ; on tiie 29th it was learned that six of the dogs had come ashore without har: ess, one of them with a pistol- shot wound in his neck, given probably by Putnam, who in- tended to use it for food, had he succeeded in escaoing. He was seen three days afterward, being carried out to sea, but an earnest effort to reach him in a canoe failed, the ice cut- ting through the boat. How long he survived can never be known ; the temperature was from twenty to forty degrees below zero, and he had no protection from the fierce winds, except his warm clothing. His death was either from the cold, want of food, or from the breaking up of the floe. A month's search on the shore made by Waring and Stoney levealed nothing more of one of the most promising officers of the expedition. In the meantime, February 8th, Lieutenant Berry, as yet unacquainted with this sad disaster, left Cape Serdze with Hunt to follow the coast westward in search of the missing crews ; arriving at the Russian post of Nishne March 24th. he learned of the landing of part of the Jeannette's crew at the mouth of the Lena, and continued his journey, overtaking Chief Engineer Melville's search party, and proceeding to Yakutsk. Berry intended to fit out a new expedition, but on learning that Lieutenant Harber had been ordered by Secre- tary Chandler to make a summer search, he returned home, and Hunt joined Harber. The party from the Rodgers left on shore at St. Lawrence RELIEF EXPEDITIONS FOR THE JEANNEITE. 311 Bay, under Master Waring, U. S. N., was received on board the whaling barque Nortii Star, Captain L. C. Owens, ot" New Bedford, May 8th. Tiie captain, having heard of the party by a letter which Waring had intrusted to the natives for any passing whaling vessel, had forced his ship through the oppo- site ice for their rescue. On their way to Ounalaska, falling in with the revenue cutter Corwin, the Rodgers party were transferred to her, arriving in San T'rancisco June 23d, 1882. Another expedition in search of the Jeannette was sent out by the United States government, under Commanders Cooper and Wadleigh. The United States screw-steamer Alliance left Hampton Roads June i6th, 1881, and anchored in the harbor of Hammerfest, Norway, July 24th. August 27th the Alliance left Spitzbergen, and cruised under sail until September nth to Hammerfest, after which she succeeded in getting again as far north as 79° 3' 36". The ice and the weather showed Commander Wadleigh that it would be unsafe to attempt to reach Cape Brewster. Sep- tember 25th, under the instructions of the department as already named, he began his return, arriving at Reykiavik, October loth, Halifax, Nova Scotia, November ist, and New York, on the nth. While at Reykiavik he received news from Governor Finssen of the stranding and wreck of a mer- chant vessel of 1,200 tons, June 26th, 1881, on the rocks just outside of Thorshaven. The governmental examination which had been made of this ship had found upon it the inscription Jamestown, Boston, Mass. There was, however, no informa- tion offered to Commander Wadleigh, indicating in any man- ner the slightest knov/ledge or rumor of the Jeannette. i iSm- ml un Ml I III;: ^ m':: \ CHAPTER XIX. METEOROLOGICAL STATIONS IN THE POLAR REGIONS. An Intc-national Congress — Stations Recommended by the Polar Commission— '["he In. structioiis of the Officers in Command of these Expeditions — Preliminary Expedition of the schooner Florence — Valualjle Scientific Observations. In September, 1875, the late Lieutenant Carl Weyprecht, one of the commanders of the Arctic expedition in the ill- fated Tegetthoff and the discoverer of Franz Joseph's Land, first made the proposition, that the world should unite in one uniform system of magnetic and meteorological observations at as many stations as possible, as well in the Arctic as in the Antarctic regions. These results were to be compared with those to be obtained in the temperate zones. The estab- lishment of an official Polar Commission was the result, all the members of which were clothed with authority by their respective governments. This commission recommended that the following stations should be occupied by observers, to be appointed by the respective governments : By the United States, Lady Franklin Bay, Grinnell Land, N. lat. 81° 44', W. long. 64°' 30', and Ooglaamie, near Point Barrow, Alaska. N. 71° 18' lat, long. VV. 156° 24'; by Austro- Hungary, Jan Mayen, lat. N. 70° 58', long. 8° 35', and Pola, lat. N. 70° 52', E. long. 13° 51'; by Denmark, Godthaab, lat. 64° 10', W. long. 51° 45'; by Finland, Soudan Kyla, lat. N. 6y° 24', E. long. 26° 36'; by France, Cape Horn. lat. S. 56° 00', W. long. 67° 00'; by Germany, South Georgia Island, S. lat. 54° 30CW. long. 38° 00', and Kingawa, N. lat. 67° 30', W. long. 67° 30' (Hogarth Inlet, Cumberland Sound) ; by (ireat Britain and Canada, Fort Rae or Fort Simpson, on (ireat Slave Lake, N. lat. 62° 30', W. long. 115° 40', and Toronto, where observations will be made by Canada, N. lat. 43° 39', W. long. 79° 23'; by Holland, Dickson Haven, or Port Dick- son, N. lat. jTi^ 30'- E- lori.2r. 82° 00'; by Italy, Punta Arenas, Patagonia, S. lat. 53° 10', W. long. 70° 55'; by Russia, Nova Zembla (Karmakule Bay), N. lat. 72° 30', E. long. 53° 00', and (312) METEOROLOGICAL FTATIONS, 313 Mouth of the Lena, N. lat. 73° 00', E. long. 124° 40'; by Sweden, Spitzbergen, N. lat. 79° 53', E. long. 16° 00'; by the An'^entine Republic, steps have been taken to establish a macmetic observatory at Cordoba, S. lat. 31° 30', W. long. 64° 30'. A number of "Auxiliary Stations " were alfeo pro- posed. In addition to the two stations named above for Russia, the Geographical Society of that country proposed to main- tain seven special meteorological stations in Siberia. The United States Signal Officer reported in 1882 that the follow- ing named countries were co-operating with the United States in the work of Polar research : Germany at Pendulum Island, North Atlantic, and South Georgian Island, in the Antarctic Ocean; England and Canada, Russia, Austria, France, Hol- land. Finland, Norway and Sweden, and Denmark. The Bulletin of the Geographical Society of Paris {Premier Triniestre, 1883) reviews the proposed plan of work, and locates the observers as follows : The United States, at the points before named ; England, at Fort Rae, Great Slave Lake, 62° 30' N. ; Germany, on Cumberland Gulf, 66° 30' N.; Denmark, at Godhavn, Greenland, 64° 10' N. ; Austria, at Jan Mayen, between Norway and Greenland, 70° 58' ; Sweden, on Mosoel Bay, Spitzbergen, 79° 53' N. ; Norway, at Bossekop, the north cape of Finmark, 69° 56' N. ; Holland, at Dickson- haven, the mouth of the Yenesei, 73° 20' N. ; Russia, at So- kandyla, Finland, 67° 24' N., at Karmakul^ Bay, north coast of Nova Zembla, 72° 30', and at Cape Borchaya, on the east of the Lena Delta, 73° N. For these stations the following moneys have been contributed, chiefly by national appropria- tions: For the two parties in the United States, ^100,000; for the English, $33,000 ; for the Danish, 1^40,000 ; for the Austrians, by Count Wibczek exclusively, ;j^4o,ooo ; lor the Swe'lish, 5^16,000; for the Holland observations, $13,000; for Norway, $8,000 ; for Russia, $90,000 ; for France, at Cape Horn, $60,000 ; for the German observations at the Georgian Islands, $36,000 ; for observations by Italy and the Argentine Republic at the South Shetland Islands, $16,000. "If we add to all these stations those already existing in Russia, Siberia, Alaska, the English Provinces of the North, etc., it will be seen that around the whole Polar Circle will be a zone of observatories, whose observations will form the study of the globe to the eightieth degree of north latitude ; '■■Ii- \i ■4 ■ si 1 1ll ■iM 3H ARCriC: EXPLORATIONS. while in the southern hemisphere England has a meteoro- logical observatory in the Falkland Islands. . . . Tlic lanrcr number of the civilized nations are striving by scientific means to wrest the mysterious secrets of the deep from their hidden recesses of the North." At the date of the issue by the United States Signrd Ser- vice, Washington, of the " Memoranda " from which some of these notes of the stations are cited, it is stated by dcMieral Hazen, that since the organization of the International Com- mission other nations have enlisted in the work ; the observ- ing parties have all been despatched to their respective destinations, and they now are actually engaged in tiie con- templated observations. The stations will be occupied for at least one, and, in some cases, for three years, and may be divided into two classes, namely: (i.) The special polar stations within thirty degrees of the north or south pole ; and, (2.) The auxiliary stations, which are spread over the rest of the habitable globe. Besides these land stations, observations made on shipboard are extensively called for, and it is hoped that enough observations will be accumulated to allow the making of a complete map of the weather, and of the mag- netic disturbances throughout the whole globe, for any moment of time during the period in question. In addition to the main work of these international stations, all possible atten- tion will be given to numerous collateral subjects. Thir- teen nations have thus far entered heartily into the project; fifteen polar stations and over forty auxiliary stations have been establis^^ed. A distinction was made between the observations con- sidered obligatory and those regarded as desirable. Those considered obligatory in the aid of meteorology are, observa- tions on the temperature of the air and of the sea, barometric pressure, humidity, winds, clouds, rainfalls, and the weather and optical phenomena ; those for magnetism are for abso- lute declination, inclination, and horizontal intensity ; and for variations of the same. In the Official Report of the Chief of the United States Signal Service for the year 1881, he said that " Owing to the very mobile nature of the atmosphere, the changes taking place on our portion of the globe, especially in the Arctic Zone, quickly affect regions very distant therefrom. The study of the weather in Europe and America cannot be sue- METEOROLOGICAL STATIONS. 315 cessfiilly prosecuted without a daily map of tiic whole northern hemisphere, and the g^reat blank space of the Arctic region upon our simultaneous international ciiart has long been a subject of regret to meteorologists. . . . The general object is to accomplish by observations made in concert at numerous stations such additions to our knowledge as cannot be ac- quired by isolated or desultory travelling parties. No special attempt will be made at geographical exploration, and 7icithcr expedition is in any sense an attempt to 7-cacIi the North Pole. The single object is to elucidate the phenomena of the weather and the magnetic needle, as they occur in America and Europe, by means of observations taken in the region where the most remarkable disturbances seem to have their origin." In the expression of these sentiments and in the carrying out, as General Hazen said, the promises of his predecessor, the late General Meyer, by co-operating with the International Committee he was also furthering the objects in view by the late Professor Henry, as expressed in his letter to Hon. B. A. Willis, in which he wrote : " I am predisposed to advocate any rational plan for exploration and observation within the Arctic Circle. Much labor has been expended on this sub- ject, especially with a view to reach the Pole ; yet many problems connected with physical geography and science in general remain unsolved. "I. With regard to a better determination of the figure of the earth, pendulum experiments are required in the region In question. "II. The magnetism of the earth requires, for its better elucidation, a larger number and more continued observations than have yet been made. "HI. To complete our knowledge of the tides of the ocean, a series of observations should be made, at least for a year. "IV. For completing our knowledge of the winds of the globe, the results of a larger series of observations than those we now possess are necessary, and also additional observa- tions on temperature. "V. The whole field of natural history could be enriched by collections in the line of botany, mineralogy, geology, etc., and facts of interest obtained with regard to the influence of extreme cold on animal and vegetable life." The plan referred to by Professor Henry was the one em- ; m iW *H. i! 'H:|- 3i6 ARCTIC KXI'LOKAIIONS. braced in a Memorial whicli liad bcuMi submittcil to Conirress by II. W. HowoaU;, tluMi on duty at the Uiiitcti States sl^unaj Service Office. The efforts for this preliminary polar cNpi;. ditioii resulted in tiie despatch to Cumberland Sound, by ih,. aid of private subscription only of the l*'lorence, a lore aiid aft vessel of fifty-si.K tons, built in Wells, Maine, in 1851. ioi- mackerel fisliini^-; afterwards used by Williams tS: Haven, I lall's benefactors, as a sealer in the Southern seas. Alihonoh a staunch and fair sea-boat, she was too small for the |)iir- pose, anil sailed at least twi) months later than was dirsirahK;, leavinj^ New London Aui^ust 2,^, ^'^11- Her three professt'il objects were, to collect material, do;es ; secure the help of the I'^sijuimaux for a second steamer which it was pro- posed should follow; accomplish some scientific work, and repay the outlay by whalincf. The b'lorence, under the command of Captain Gcoroc K. Tyson, the leader of liie lloe party from the Polaris, first anchored in Ni-an-ti-lic harbor, on the western shore of Cum- berland Sound, and after securini; there a numberof Hsquiiiiaux and materials, anchored, October 7th, in An-naw-nac-liH)k, in about latitude 67" N., lonoitude 68'' 40' W. A small observa- tory and workini;-place was erected under shelter for nieico- roloii^ical and other observations, and as soon as the snow became compact a snow-house built over this tent, which remained as a lining-. Scientific work was begun at once in the interests of meteorology and the collection of specimens in natural history. The co-laborers were Mr. Ludwig Kum- lien and Mr. O. T. Sherman. But on the return of the Florence to Godhavn, July 31st, no expedition steamer was to bo seen, nor a word of news of such, or of letters from home ; after tliree weeks of wait- ing-, therefore, profitably employed in scientific labors, the Florence returned to Cumberland Sound and re-landeil the Esquimaux and their effects. September i 2th she heaileil for home, reaching St. John's, Newfoundland, on the 26tli, from which port, after encounteringr a storm of unusual fury, Cap- tain Tyson's skill brough* her safely into Boston, October 30th, 1877. The value of this expedition virill thus readily appear to consist in the labors of the scientific officers who have been named. ■ I CHAPTER XX. I.ADY TKANKMN HAY. Tlic (irocly F,xpe(1iti()n — Tho Nanii-s of tlic Mi:ml)«Ts of the Party — The InstruclionH ol (he Chief Sifjiiiil-C Xliccr — The I'roteufi sets out to convey tlie Party to I'raiiklin Hay — I'MaliMshiiij; Fort C'oiij^er -Allemptod Reliefs in 1882 and 1885 — l',x|ie(iilh)ns of the Nt|'liiiu and the Proteus — 'I'he Latter Cruslied — Lieutenant (iplweil's Hoal-Journey South — Ktlurn of the Relief Kxi)edition — Sjiicy Letter of Mr. 1-inden Kent to (Jencral W. H Ila/rii. , Tm; colony at lH)rt Conji^cr, in Lady Franklin liay, lat. 8i° 44' N. and loni,^ 64° 30' W., was established under an art of Congress, appropriatintj the sum of 1^25,000 for this purj)Osc. First Lieutenant A. W. (irecly, U. S, A., in June, 1881, was charged with the establishint:^ of a permanent station at the most suitable point north of the 8ist parallel, and c:onti<;uous to the coal vein discovered near Lady Franklin Hay in 1875. This station was to be maintained for three years at least, and an annual visit should be paid to the station to carry fresh food and supplies, and, if necessary, to brin^ back invalid mem- bers of th(! expedition and to carry out fresh men to take their places. The party consisted of: Lieutenant and Brevet-Major A. W. Grecly ; Lieutenant F. F. Kislingbury ; Lieutenant James B. Lockwood ; L)r. O. Pavy, ActinjT Assistant Surgeon and Naturalist ; Serji^eants Hrainard, Frederics, Lonj^, Klison, Cross, Linn, Jewell, Ralston, Israel and Rice ; Corporal Saler ; Hospital Steward Biedcrbeck ; Privates Connelly, Bender, Ellis, Whistler, Henry and Schneider, and Frederick Christiansen and Jens Edwards, Esquimaux. Lieutenant Greely received his instructions from the Chief Signal Officer, General Hazen. The directions for the outward voyage, and the general work of the party after reaching their station, required that after leaving St. John's, Newfoundland, " except to obtain Esquimau hunters, dogs, clothing, etc., at Disco and Uper- navik, only such stops will be made as the condition of the (317) 3i8 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. " •■ \t ■i, I ;:> :i ^•■i^li-^ ice necessitates, or as are essential in order to determine; the exact location and condition of the stores cached on tin; east coast of Grinnell Land by the English Expedition of 1875. During any enforced delays along the coast it would be well to supplement the English depots by such small caches from the steamer's stores of provisions as would be valuabh; to a party retreating southward by boats from Robeson's Channel. At each point where an old depot is examined, or a new one established, three brief notices will be left of the visit — one to be deposited in the cairn built or found standing, one to be placed on the north side of it, and one to be buried twenty feet north (magnetic) of the cairn. Notices discovered in cairns will be brought away, replacing them, however, by copies." The steamer Proteus, on her arrival at Ladv Franklin Bay, was to dischar her cargo with the utmost de :h, and return to St. John's, bringing a report of the proceedings and observa- ,,^^|^_^^^^^^^^ tions made during the voyage, ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ while the party which landed, I^^B^^^^^^KB^^It after erecting a dwelling-house and observatories, were to make, % in accordance with the proposals made to the navy department, sledging expeditions for geo- graphical surveys to the high land north of Cape Joseph Henry; their chief work, however, was to be that of the scientific observations which have been named. Leaving St. John's, Newfoundland, July 7th, 1881, Lieuten- ant Greely reached Godhavn on the i6th, the voyage being made in the face of continuously adverse winds, two strong northerly gales and constant cloudy and foggy weather. The ship behaved admirably. The only ice seen south of Cape Farewell was a few icebergs off Funk Island, and about forty in 52° N. and 53° 15' W. Pack-ice was fallen in with at 10.30 p. M. July 1 2th, in lat. 61° 30' N., 53° 30' W., and a second pack encountered the same day, at 2.30 p. m., in 62° 30' N., 52° 15' W., was passed through in an hour; neither offered LIEUTENANT A. W. GREELY. LADY KKANKI-IN BAY. 319 any obstructions to free passag^e or caused the slightest dt;lay. They both consisted of ice-Hoes varying from one to eight feet above the water. Coming from the east coast of Green- land they had drifted with the southerly current from Cape Farewell into Davis Strait. From Herr Krarup Smith, inspector of North Greenland, it was learned that the past winter in Greenland, except a brief period of cold in March, had been one of marked and unusual mildness, and that the ice north of Upernavik had broken up very early. July 20th, Dr. Octave Pavy joined the expedition as acting assistant surgeon. Twelve dogs, a large quantity of dog-food, and some sealskins were procured, with a considerable quantity of " mattaky skin of the white whale, a very valuable anti-scorbutic ; and a few articles of fur cloth- ing obtained by barter, as they could not be bought for money. Hard bread and tobacco were principally given in exchange. The remains of the house purchased by the Florence in 1880 were taken on board, as well as thirty thousand pounds of buffalo pemmican stored by the same expedition. A good set of observations for time were made July i9-20th, at the only hours during which the sun shone. Leaving Godhavn the morning of the 21st the vessel reached Rittenbenk the same forenoon. At that point were purchased a number of sealskins, a large quantity of dog- food and other minor articles, which had been accumulated for the expedition through the energy of Dr. Pavy. Being delayed by the fog Lieutenant Lock wood was sent with a party to obtain birds from Awe-Prins Island. He returned that evening with sixty-five guillemots (Alcaawa or Alca Bruennichi). It was said at Rittenbenk that the spring had been the most forward one for years. From Rittenbenk, ru.xning through the Waigat, the steamer was off Upernavik 9 p. m. July 23d, but owing to the fog could not enter the harbor until next morning. Two Esquimaux who were expected to accompany the expedition were not available, and in consequence a trip to Proven, about fifty miles distant, was necessary to obtain others. Skin clothing could not be obtained, except ten suits, which having been made by order of the Danish Government for the use of the International Polar Station of Upernavik of 1882-83, were now sold. i I-:!.:. '' !?■ !0 320 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. On the morRing of July 25th Lieutenant Lockwood left in the steam-launch Lady Greely for Proven, taking a circuitous route inside the islands, rendered necessary by bad weather. He returned early on the 28th, bringing for service with the expedition a native, Jans Edward, and a half-breed, Frederick Shorley Christiansen ; he also procured about a dozen suits of skin clothing, which, though second-hand, were very ser- vic( ?.ble. He had killed one hundred and twenty guillemots dr ring his voyage. The launch behaved admirably, both as a s a-boat and under steam. Lieutenant Kislingbury, under orders, made two visits, July 24th and 25th, to the "Loomery" near Sanderson's Hope, bringing back the first day three hundred fine birds, and on the latter one hundred and fifteen, all guillemots (Alca Awa), and ten dogs, five of whom died of dog disease, and must have been sick when sold. Additional dog-food, sledcre fittings, dog harness, and sealskins were also bought. It was through the marked interest and kindly influence of Inspector Smith that the expedition secured the services of the natives and obtained so fair a stock of needed articles. The meteorological records of the past winter showed it to have been very mild, and the spring very early. Inspector Smith remarked that in fourteen years Upernavik had never been so green. Reports from Tessi-ussak were to the effect that the ice, breaking up very early, was all gone. On the afternoon of July jgth the anchorage of Upernavik was left, and at 7 p. m., having run out the southern way, the vessel was distant three miles, just off the island to the west. Run- ning northward a few hours the Middle Passage was taken, and at 7 a. m., July 31st, the engines were stopped, as the dead reckoning placed the vessels only six miles south of Cape York; a dense fog prevented the land from being seen, but an hour later, the fog lifting a few minutes, showed land about five miles distant. This experience of the " Middle Passage " may be fairly said to have been without parallel or precedent. The run of the English Expedition of 1875-76 from Upernavik to seventy five miles south of Cape York in seventy hours was said to have been unprecedented ; this passai^e by the same route, and to within five miles of Cape York, was made in thirty-six hours, half the time taken by the expedition under Sir George Nares to run a less distance. Nothing in the shape of a pack was encountered in Baffin od left in :ircuitous weather, with the Frederick zen suits very ser- uillemots Y, both as ^vo visits^ nderson's fine birds, lots (Alca lease, and Dd, sledge t. It was Inspector be natives owed it to Inspector lad never the effect On the c was left, :he vessel 1st. Run- as taken, the dead pe York; t an hour bout five ,oe " may recedent. Ipernavik lours was Ithe same made in )n under 11 in Baffin w "^ m ^ "or "^ »» ^ °§ »c Ucly ||-^% I > ! tl^ a t 11 a a 1. tc w w bl al lai th so de frc Gi Of sis thi fee vef gal J ten ice the fror d LADY FRANKLIN BAY. 321 Bay; but in about 75° 08' N., 6;^° 40' W., a pack was seen to the westward ; whether open or compact was uncertain. At 8.15 A. M. July 31st, the fog lifting, disclosed Petowik glacier near, to the north of which, in small patches of dirty reddish color, was seen the red snow among the " crimson cliffs " of Sir John Ross. Sighting the Carey Islands at 3.10 P. m., two parties were landed on thv- southeast at 5.45 r. m. The party under Dr. Pavy obtained from the cairn on the summit the record left by Captain Allen Young in 1875 and 1876, and with Lieutenants Greely and Lockwood found and examined the whaleboat and depot of provisions left by Sir George Nares in 1875 ; they were in good and serviceable condition. August 2d Litdeton Island was reached. Here a personal and exiiaustive search of seven hours was necessary to find the English mails. There was a very small cairn near the mails, but with no record. A record enclosure was left here, and Lieutenant Lockwood with a party landed about six and a half tons of coal, as a depot of fuel for possible future use. Lieutenant Kislingbury and Dr. Pavy visited Lifeboat Cove to communicate with the Etah Esquimaux and see the Polaris winter-quarters. Several photographs of the surroundings were taken by Sergeant Rice, and a number of relics were brouoiht off. The transit instrument of the Polaris was found about twenty feet from the cairn. About 7.45 p. M., off Cape Lieber, a heavy pack against the land was passed to the eastward, and at 9 p. m,, August 4th, the vessel was stopped for the first time by ice, in the extreme southeast part of Lady Franklin Bay, only eight miles from destination. The pack was a very heavy one, and running from Cape Baird northward in a semicircle, reached the Greenland coast, where it touched the land just south of Offley Island, near the mouth of Peterman's Fiord. It con- sisted of thick Polar ice, ranging from twenty to fifty feet in thickness, cemented together by harbor ice from two to five feet thick. It was impossible to do aught but wait. The vessel was tied to the pack off Cape Baird, and awaited a gale. August 5th Greely went ashore at Cape Lieber, with Lieu- tenant Lockwood, Dr. Pavy and a party, to examine the ice from tiie cliffs. Lieutenant Lockwood erected a cairn on the highest peak. No other cairn could be seen on it or from it, nor on other peaks visited by Greely and Dr. :*: •i Hid 21 Illl 1 1 I IP 1 H IBi'll ' 1 i 1 i i 1 1 Ij ;'M ■ : iV 1' ■ ^ i; !'.' ■ ■ ]'■ ] ilfil'^il:!-! ill ID ' i''i Vy 1 ' :||i!'l' 1 1. liililiii 1 iiiiS ,.i il ^P''iK4-'- ^-' i'*'-' ] III BlffiP^iV '■' '''^: ''. m liHt pro- vision for the future of tiiat party, he was, iiowevci-, reluc- tantly compelled to assttnt to tiie decision of the cajiUiin of th(* Nei)tune, its first officer, Mr. Norman, and the siir^rcon^ to return to the United State;:. Furtb.er delay was useless and extremely hazardous, and the safety of die ship and the lives of all on board demanded an immediate deparlinc. On the 8t!i of September Ciodhavn was ai;ain reached, ami inr do<^s, do,u^-food and lumber put on shore for a su1).so(|ik,'1u expedition : on the 24th the Neptune anchored ai^ain at Si, John's. The voya.q;e was another and a striking ilhisiraiion SQUIMAUX J'.IMLUING A HUT. of the uncertainty of ice-navigation, especially as contrasted with that of the Proteus when she took out the party under Lieutenant Greely the previous year. It was disheartening to the friends of Arctic exploration, as well as to the relatives of the explorers, that no supplies could be afforded to those at such distance from home, and no reports of their labors or of their condition could be received. Nothing whatever could 'be done until the summer of 1883. In obedience to orders from the War Department and from the chief signal officer U. S. A., Lieutenant E. A. Garlington left New York on board the United States Steamer Yantic, Commander Wildes, June 12th, 1883, and, on arriving at St t li LADY FRANKLIN BAY, 327 John's on the 21st, finding there the steamship Proteus, vvliich ]i;i(l been chartered for an expedition to reHeve Lieutenant (irccly's party, nearly ready lor sea. After a consultation with Commander Wildes, the steamships Yantic and Proteus left St. Joliii's June 29th, Lieutenant Garlint^ton liavinj^ been joined on board the Proteus by Lieutenant J. C. Colwell, l). S. N., on duty, under orders from the Navy Department, as a volunteer. Disko Island was sii;hted July 6th, but Captain Pike, " by .some error in his bearini^s," ran by the entrance to the har- bor, and was making about due course for Riltenbenk, when some one on deck discovered a pilot-boat steamino- after them. The ship was put about and tlic captain piloted into God- havn. The Yantic arrived on the 12th, havinc^ come all die way under sail and encountering no ice. Commander Wildes in- forming the lieutenant that he would remain at (iodhavn probably a week, and then go to the Waigat Strait to procure coal, (iarlington left the harbor on the 1 6th, determined to push his way forward without further delay. The Inspector and the Governor of Godhavn both assured him that thcM'e would probably be no ditTficulty in reaching the station. On the 17th, when passing Hare Island, icebergs were numerous in every direction. On the 18th the Proteus was forcing her way through ice varying from two to si.x feet in thickness, and on the second day following she was stopped by an im- penetrable pack. The Proteus again turned south. Cape York in sight; on the 2 2d the southeast Carey Island, the cache of Nares' Ex- pedition, was visited, and a record taken up which was made there August ist, 1881. The record is as follows : "International Polar Expedition to Lady Franklin Bay, fitted out by the War Department, under the supervision of General W. B. Hazen, Chief Signal Officer U. S. Army, and colnmanded by First-Lieutenant A. V\l. Greely, Fifth Cavalry, A. S. O. and Asst. " Left in the Steamship Proteus, island of Upernavik, 7 p. m., July 29th, 1 88 1, and at 7 a. m., July 31st, stopped by a heavy fog- about six miles south of land supposed to be Cape York. ( -IB'! ■i ti jl If ^1 ^1 "; r^ I '■(![ 328 AKCriC liXI'LOKATlUNS. Middle passatjc takon and found iohv. entirely jcnobslnirlrdWf ice. All well. This notice deposited Auj^ust ist, i.SSi. (Signed) "J. B. LocKwooi), " i.ieut. 23d Inf. iJ. S. Army, Tiiird ( )rticnr." (Mr.MORANDA.) "One keg- of biscuits opened and found mouldy. One can of be(;f opened and louml j^^ood. Stores ;^^(;nerally IouikJ apparendy in same condition as when deposited here in j;;;:. (Signed) "J. B. Lockwood, ••Lieut. U. S. Army." At Cape Sabine, Payer Harbor, the cache; of ston-s iniulc by tile party from the Neptune the year previous, was loiinj to b(! in Hiir condition. Under the ever quickly changinrr, but now favorable con- dition of the leads in the ice, Lieutenant Garlingion deter- mined to go out in the harbor, to examine these and en- deavor once more to go north. By his glass he saw that •• the pack had broken and open lanes of water had lonneci, leading across Buchanan Strait along Bache Island and across Princess Marie Bay. At 8 w m. the Proteus rounded C;i|)c Sabine and proceeded through the op(!n leads in the broken ice to within four miles of Cape Albert, where the ship was stopped about six hundred yards from the open water, and Captain Pike's efforts to force a passage by ramming ( lUiiely failed." The Proteus on arriving next day again within four miles of Cape Albert, discovered that the open lane was now tilled with a solid pack ; she turned southward In a fruitless at- tempt to make her way out ; at 2.45, movement in any direc- tion was impossible. Ice from five to seven feet in thickness came against her sides and then piled itself up on the Hoe amidships and astern ; at 4.30 p. m., tiie starboard rail gave way, the ice forced its way through the ship's side into the bunker, the deck planks rose, the seams opened out; at 7.15 she slowly passed out of sight on an even keel. Alive from the outset to the coming crush of the nip. Lieutenants (lar- lington and Colwell and Dr. Harrison had succeeded in sav ing one of the boats and a quantity of the stores; the report to the Signal Officer affirms that with the exception of the chief engineer of the Proteus and the boatswain, none of the ■■. 1. . M LADY FRANKLIN HAY. 329 Iniilcs ilk'd IS at- llircc- kncss lloe 1) the 7-15 jtrom l(iar- sav- Import the the crcwof tho Protons lent .issistancc to tliis work, but employed th(Mnsi;lvt;s In ojicnin!^ and rillinjj the boxes v.vr.n of privalir clothiniL,^ With sonK; of the ston.'s saved, I jeiiKMiant C()lw(;ll made a cache three miles west of Cape Sabine, which was afterwards increased by the two sidereal chronometers and a quantity of clothing. The cache was inteiuled for LieuKrnant Grccly's |)arty. . • . . To HMuh^r assistance to Greely beiniL;^ now Impossible, there remained nothinL,^ for the parties from the Proteus except the choice either of spendimjc the winter with tiie I^srpiimaux or attemptini,'' to cross Melville Bay in boats. Li(;ut(Miant Col- well head(;d boldly across the bay to establish communication with the Yantic ; the rest of the party started to coast around the hay and reach Upernavik ; after a severe Arctic <'xperi- encc, Colwell reached Upernavik on the 23d. and fMulInLC that the Yantic was not there, pushed forward to (iodhavn when; he found the tender, and i^ladly learned from Commander Wildes that on the 2d of the month at Upernavik, he had re- ceived on board all of the other parties from the Proteus. Lieutenant Col well's boats had spent in them thlrty-elL^ht days, niaklni]^ a voyage of nearly one thousand miles. On September 13th the Yantic arrived at St. John's, brin<^- ing Captain Pike and crew of the Proteus, and Lieutenant Garlington and the Greely relief party. A court of inquiry was ordered, before which Mr. Linden Kent acted as counsel for Lieutenant Garllnii^ton, and which ended in diat officer's honorable acquittal of all biame. After the return of the survivors of the ill-fated Greely expedition^ Mr. Ken^ wrote the following letter to General W. B. Ilazen, Chi(?f Signal Officer: "Washington, July 2 2d, 1884. "General W. B. Hazen : — " Dear Sir — My professional relation to Lieutenant Gar- liniiton In the late investiijatlon of the failuie of the Proteus expedition under his command, will signify to you the occa- sion for this letter. His absence and your published com- ments on his failure to leave more stores at Cap(r Sabine suggested to me the propriety of addressing it to you. Your sole object, I must assume, is to fix the responsibility for the loss of eighteen brave men where it properly belongs. In the shadow of this great calamity, I will not believe that you in M^ i; \m mw^ • \ ■ I Ji ! ;^f«^ I' 'i:'-'il| ! '■'i 1 1'' oj*^ ARC'llC EXPLORATIONS. can IiavG a less pure motive. We have been tlirout^Ii thli? investi_<^ation toijether, <;eneral, and as the source of our intcl- lijrence is the same, I feel that you will the more readily accept the aid that I cheerfully tender to the common cause of trutii. "The world now knows that the sad fate of the eijjjhteen victims was due to the failure to deposit a proper ciuaniiLyof stores at Cape Sabine. You say that ' the rations which Lieutenant Garlington left at Cape Sabine wen; in accord- ance with Lieutenant Grcely's instructions. Of course, if more stores had been left, more lives would have been saved.' The legitimate inference from this is, that while the few stores left by (jarlington saved the lives of six of Greely's party, the loss of the others was due to his failure to leave a larger sup- ply. Whose fault was it that there was not a sufficient (.h-posit of stores at Cape Sabine ? If Garlinyton's, let him answer for it ; if not, you would not wish that he should remain longer under such suspicion. "In 1882 the Beebe expedition, under your instruction, was organized for the relief of Lieutenant Greely. It was trans- ported nordi on the ship Neptune, and arrived in the vicinity of Cape Sabine on th(i 29th of July, and remained until the 5th day of Sept.'.mber, having been stopped in its northward course by a barrier of ice. 'In accordance with her instruc- tions,' derived from you, a cache of provisions was estab- lished upon 'Littleton Island and another o Cape Sabine of 250 rations each.' The rest of her stores were, by your orders, brought hack to St. John's and landed for future use. Tiiere was every opportunity to establish a cache of 10,000 rations instead of 250 at Cape Sabine had you so directed. In your testimony before the court of inquiry on the 15th of November, 1883, you approved of Mr. Beebe's course in thus makino; the depots in accordance with vour instructions, though in your testimony before the same court on the 20th of Novembc:r, in relation to the propriety of leaving the stores at Cape Sabine, you say: 'I have regretted very much ever since that such instructions were not given, and that his sup- plies were not all left at Cape Sabine.' Surely it was not Garlington's fault that the stores of the Neptune were de- posited at St. John's instead of at Cape Sabine, or Liuleton Island, nor can I believe that it was Greely's, as you suggest in your memorandum of che 19th inst. il the iward istruc- cstab- inc ot your "c use. 0,000 •ccted. 5th of rse in ctioiis, ;oth stores 1 ever sup- is not re tle- trlcton ,'gSest il Is iiii (jjO i'l s ^i; M ? ;i 1, I St- ; !S 332 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. "Under your sole direction the relief expedition of i.sgr was sent north in the Proteus under Lieutenant Gariiiioton'^ command, and arrived off Cape Sabine on the 2 2(1 day of July, 18S3. If he had had orders, or even ix-niiission, lo leave supplies at Cape Sabine, there was abundant oppor- tunity to do so; but the court of inquiry found that under your instructions he had neither, and justified his course in not doing; so. " Permit me to remind you that you specially empliasized the necessity of not permitting Lieutenant Garlington to de- posit any of his stores on the northward course of the Protfus in the very first lines of your written instructions to iiim, wherein you say : * You are aware of the necessity of reach- ing Lieutenant A. W. Greely and his party with the cxpedi- tion of this year. This necessity cannot be overestimated, as Lieutenant Greely's supplies will be exhausted durino the coming fall.' When your attention was called to this, as the records of your office disclosed, that Greely then had a full year's supplies, you said : * It was either a clerical error or it was put in by Captain Clapp in his first rough draft, and th(; matter was overlooked afterward.' This is found by the court to have been one of the nine grave errors or omissions noted in your action 'as having either directly led or largely contributed to the abortive issue of the expedition.' "Again, you justified your course in not permitting Garling- ton to land any of his supplies on the northward progress of the ship upon the ground that the tender (the Yantic) beino; at Littleton Island would actually be a depot. Your instruc- tions, both written and verbal, were explicit on this point. In the attempt to carry out your instructions 'that no effort must be spared to push the vessel through tc Lady FrankHu Bay,' the Proteus was caught in the ice, and lost off Cape Sabine on die evening of July 23d, 1883. With respect to Garlington's conduct at this time the court, in its finding, says: 'After the disaster the evidence clearly establishes the fact that Lieutenant Garlington and his party saved all they could from the sinking ship, and that they cached near Cape Sahine all the stores and provisions that could be spared before crossintT to Littleton Island.' '* Whether the responsibility should be fixed upon Greely or Garlington, these facts recalled to your attention, I think, will relieve you of any doubt as to where it should in fact rest. 1 i i; LADY FRANKLIN BAY. 333 "I may add that the court took occasion to note that from July, 1882. to August, 1883, not less than 50,000 rations were taken in the steamers Neptune, Yantic, and Proteus up to or beyond Littleton Island, and yet of that number 1,000 only were left in that vicinity, the remainder being returned to the United States or sunk with the Proteus. This was the pro- vision that was made under your instructions for Greely's arrival at Cape Sabine, although the ofificers in your depart- ment connected with this subject again and again urged the propriety of making large depots on the east side of Smith Sound, and notwithstanding the fact that Lieutenant Greely himself, in a letter addressed to you from Lady Franklin Bay, bearh date August I5tii, 188 r, said: 'I feel it proper to here state that, in my opinion, a retreat from here southward to Cape Sabine, in case no vessel reaches us in 1882 or 1883, will be safe and practicable,* thus foreshadowing to you — his chief, charged with his relief — the very course that he subse- quendy pursued with such indescribably terrible results. "If strict obedience to orders be the highest duty of a sol- dier, let Garlington have the credit which the court accorded to him, of having faithfully executed yours, that the regret over the fatal consequences to him and his expedition in hav- ing done so may be in some degree assuaged with die reflec- tion that, as a soldier, he could have done nothing else. Pardon me if I express my surprise at your attempt, in your memorandum of the 19th inst, to shift the responsibility of Garlinvton's instructions from yourself to Greely. When the court says Garlington carried out your orders, you in sub- stance ansvver . They were Greely's instructions, not mine.* Docs it not occur to you that the country may think if Greely is to be responsible for the orders that issue from your high office, that he should also enjoy its emoluments and dignities? "Amid the expression of the world's admiration for the heroic conduct of Lieutenant Greely and his courageous band, the one word of reproof and criticism from his chief will be an unexpected greeting to him emerging from the Arctic night of suffering and starvation. " Lindon Kent." '^n CHAPTKR XXI. ^ n • \i w-hiiy. i ''^ Ur.UTENANT RAYS EXPEDITION. The Expedition of l.iciilcnaiit V. II. Ray to Point 15;irrow — His Letter to Geiuml Il.v.cn — Return of Lieuti..-int Ray — Tlie Greely Parly left at Lady Franklin Hay liy tin; I'ro- tcrs — Relief Expeditions sent out in 1882 and 1883 — They do not find the (Colonists— Two Years on the Shore of Lady Franklin l?ay — All in fair health — Lieutenant Grccly's Instructions to the Relief Vessels — The Provisions should l)e Cached near Cape Sabine and at other Places on the East Coast of Grinncll Land — The Instructions not heeded — Lieutenant (Jarlington's Orders. The location of an observing party in Alaska was made under the general power of the Signal Officer to establish stations in the United States. The Chief Signal Officer intrusted this expedition to the charge of First Lieutenant P. H. Ray, Eighth Infantry. Lieu- tenant Ray's party consisted of Acting Assistant Surgeon G. S. Oldmixon, with three sergeants and eight subordinates. Kis orders were to sail as soon as practicable from San Francisco, and <. .tablish a permanent station near Point Bar- row. Special instructions in regard to the meteorological, magnetic, tidal, pendulum and other observations, and for the collection of specimens for the National Museum, were placed in his hands. He was informed that it was designed to visit the permanent station by steam or sailing-vessel in 1882, '83, and '84. Ray's party sailed from San Francisco in the steamer Golden Fleece, July iSth, 1881. On the 15th of September he wrote to General Hazen from Ooglaamie, Alaska: •• Sir : — I have the honor to report that the expedition ar- rived at this place on the 8th inst, and after a careful survey, found the most suitable place for the station to be on the northeast side of a small inlet, which I have named Golden Fleece, about eight miles from the extreme northern point (334) LIEUTENANT RAYS EXPEDITION. 335 of Point Barrow, there beini*- no high land between here and then;, and all the intermediate country being interspersed with small lakes and lagoons ; the only high ground at Point Barrow is occupied by an Indian village. The point adjacent to Point Barrow, where Macguire, R. N,, had his observatory, is, I am told, submerged during western gales. On the oppo- site side of the inlet, about one and a half miles away, is the Indian village of Ooglaamie, from which I have named the observatory. The voyage has been a long one, and particu- larly a trying one upon the party, as a heavy gale was encountered off Cape Lisburne, driving us out of our course to the north and west. And there will still be more or less suffering before I can get quarters up, as the ground is now covered with snow ; ice is forming rapidly on the mlet and lakes, and the cargo was landed with extreme difficulty, as it had to be done on an open beach; and for two clays, through a heavy surf, which often half filled our boats in landing, the spray freezing where it struck, and the vessel liable to be driven out to sea at any hour. On the 12th a small wharf was built, and that night fortunately, the wind and sea abated and the balance of the cargo was landed on the 13th and 14th, the natives rendering valuable assistance with their oomiaks. Everything is now on the beach above high-tide mark, noth- ing clamaged or broken of any importance, so far as I can find out. It is utterly impossible for me to state now what may have been omitted with the time I have got, as I cannot detain the vessel for fear she may be frozen in before passing Behring Straits ; I will only be able to check and correct as I put my stores in the building. I have no changes to recom- mend as to the members of the party. "From what Professor Baird said to some members of the party, I find that he expected me to procure specimens of native arms, boats, implements, etc. As these are of value to the natives they will have to be purchased in trade, and as I have not a sufficient supply for that purpose, having only taken enough to purchase fresh meat and to hire boats and labor in landing, I respectfully ask that I may be instructed in the matter. " In my report from Plover Bay I mentioned the necessity of the vessel next year sailing from San Francisco at an earlier date than the expedition this year; the severe ex- perience of the last fifteen days confirms my impressions of I k fi'l ■l)t> LIEUT. I'KEDERICK F. KISLINGBURV posits should be within a few miles of the spot at Cape Sa- bine where he and his com- panions were found. They were all to be on the west side of the channel or strait, t. e., on the east coast of Grinnell Land, for he well knew that he might not be able to cross the strait to Littleton Island and Lifeboat Cove. He further wrote that after having established these provision depots on the west side of the strait, and in case no vessel had reached the per- manent station in 1882, the vessel sent in 1883 should remain in Smith's Sound until there was danger of its closing by ice, and on leaving should land all her supplies and a party 33 h; '» : ^ ■!•! I 338 ARCTIC KXPLORATIONS. if li '£ Uvffl: 1 i ;| 1 "\ M? I ^■^^5^^1if;|fc|| at Littleton Island, which party should be prepared for a win- ter's stay and should be instructed to send sledge parlies up the east side of Grinnell Land to meet his party. If not visited in 1882, he would abandon his station not later than September 1st. 1883, and would retreat southward by boat, following closely the east coast of Grinnell Land until the re- lieving vessel was met or Littleton Island was reached. The relieving party should Ueep their telescopes on Cape Sabine, the very spot where the survivors were finally rescued, and the land to the northward. Not only must these rescuers carefully scan the western coast for the appearance of the re- treating colonists, but they must from time to time send siedj^e parties across the strait to Cape Sabine and northward from that point. " Such action, from advice, experience and obser- vation," said Lieutenant Greely, "seems to me all that can be done to insure our safety. No deviation from these instruc- tions should be permitted." Wlicn the colonists left their camp they relied upon the pro- vision depots at Cape Sabine so completely that they left provisions sufficient for eight months in their cabin. As they advanced winter set in. The ice robbed them of their boats and at last cast them upon the west shore of Grinnell Land. below Cape Sabine. They found no relief ship, no reHef party watching for them on the other side of the strait, and only a few rations. Two expensive expeditions had reached that point, but the stores which should have been deposited there had been carried back to the United States or had gone down with the Proteus. It is evident that the lives of all, or nearly all, of the colonists would have been saved if the re- lief party of 1882 or 1883 had landed a sufficient quantity of provisions on the west side of the strait at Cape Sabine, or Payer Harbor, or near Bache Island. But Lieutenant Gar- lington received in>':ructions to push his vessel through to Lady Franklin Bay, and not to deposit provisions unless he should fail to push his way northward through Kennedy Channel. If he could not sfet through to the nordiward he should retreat to Lifeboat Cove on the east side of the strait, land his stores there and remain for the winter. He was then to "lend sledge parties across the strait to Cape Sabine. Fol- lowing instructions, he landed no provisions, but attempted to push his way through and lost his vessel. If he had first de- posited his stores at Cape Sabine, not at Lifeboat Cove, on '■^- ll iillnl" LIKUTENANT KAY S EXPEDITION. 339 the other side of the strait, in accordance with the sugges- tions ot Lieutenant Grecly to General Hazen, they would have been found by the retreating colonists and many lives would have been saved. Ml ill ^' ) I ;i ! CHAPTER XXII. I.IKF, AT rORT CONGER. The Life of the Colonists at Koit Conger — In Camp — Erecting a House — Scienliic oiiser vations — Seif;i'ant ISrainanl Isstahlislns a I'cput of riovisions al Ca|ii: Ik-ci luy An Arctic Winter — Mctcorolo^jicil Phenomena — Aurora Horeali-. — Tidal ni)servaii()iis— Pastimes and Amusements — Amtrng the Floes — Difficult Traveilini,' over Ilumniocki ini; on the Frozen Sea — Dr. I'avy, Serj^eaiit Rice, and Esiiuimau Jens Kdwards Uiideitake ji Slod>;e Journey on ihe Frozen Arctic -A Wonderful Escape — Ciraphic Descrijiion ol Strgeant Rice — Lieutenant Lockwood\ Journey to the Highest Point ever Reached— Along the t^oast of (ireenland — Lockwood Island — Incredible Hardships. Out of the twenty-five colonists left by the Proteus ;it Lady Franklin Bay, but seven )ulcl be saved by the rescuing party under the comnian i of Commander W. S. Schley, wliicii left the harbor of New York in May, 18.S4. The story of the life at Fort Conger, as told b\ Major Greely and the other survivors, is most interestin*;, while the record of their scientific observations and exjjlorations adds greatly to our knowledi^e of a land hitherto almost un- known, and the tale of their sufferings from hunger and cold during the winter of 1S83 to 1884 is sad and harrowing in the extreme. After the departure of the Proteus, which conveyed the colonists to Lady F"ranklin Bay, on August 25th, 1 881, the com- mand lived in tents until September 2d, when the doiibl<' house, which had been constructed in the United States, hav ing been erected, was taken possession of. This afforded far greater protection from the cold, as it was a house within a house. It was divided into two main compartments, with a small i^itchen between, the officers occupying one and the en- listerl men the other of these two rooms. Cookintr was done in common and all fared alike, messing in the quarters in whicu they lived. The meals were : breakfast at eight, a light lunch at eleven a. m. and nine ?. m., and dinner at four. Their house was finished about a week after the Pioteus left. It was named, in honor of Senator Conger, Fort Con- ger. During the first month the cold affected the men more (340) Lllh A'i I'OR'J' CUNGKK. 341 than at auy suLsL-tiucnt time at Fort Conj^cr. Later on ia UcccinUr ihc temperature sank to from tilly to sixty-five de- crees below zero, antl so remained lor days at a time, but oven ia tiiat vveatiier the c()t)k's lavoriie anuisemeiit was danciii*'' bar -headed, bare-armed, and with shppered k:et on ihc lop of a snow-drift. Durinjj^ the day rhe men dressed in ortlinary outside clothing, but their llannels were very heavy. ARCTIC RF.GION-ISKKCHKY HF.AD. Five of the men were generally, for a part of the day, en- i^^icred in scientific work under Lieutenant Grecly's direction. Scientific observations had been commenced at once upon landincj. and were continued without intermission until the abandonment of the post. These were meteorological, as- tronomical, and magnetic, comprising also the temperature of sea-water, thickness of ice, and the direction and speed of the 1 i ! 'U Hi !' ' i '< *« mi m''\ 34= ARC lie: i;XI'l,OUATI()NS. tides. Major Grcely also conc1iicti:cl a s(;ri(;s of oxpcrinunus on tlie velocity of sound at different temperatures. The men not eni'^ag'ed in scitrntific work were eni|)|()\( ,| generally about an hour a day, and devoted tlic n^maiiidcr of the time in amusement. All slept in bunks. The quarters were heated by a large coal-stove, die av(M'aoe heal main- tained being fifty degrees above zero. Playing clicfkcrs, cards, and chess, and reading were the amusements of the evening. The life was said by Lieutenant Greely to be far from a lonely one, and many of the men said they had never passed two happier years than those spent at Fort Conoer. On September ist, Kennedy Channel having opened, .Ser- geant Brainard, in charge of a party in boats, establislit'd at Cape Beechey a depot of supplies to be used in die projc^cted exploration of North Greenland, and in November, twenty days after the departure of the sun, Lieutenant Lockwood, Sergeant Brainard, and seven men, with a sledge and do^j team, attempted to cross over to Greenland to examine the provisions left at the Polaris camp by Hall ; but the darkness and drifdng ice prevented their success, and they were com- pelled after much suftering to return, one of the party bein^- badly frostbitten. It will be remembered that when tlie Pro- teus left Lady Franklin Bay the number of dogs was much reduced by sickness and death, but those left were carefully looked after, and by breeding Major Greely was able in the spring of 1882 to put two good teams in the field, and in nearly all of his explorations the dogs were found most use- ful and almost indispensable accessories. On October 15th the sun left them for 135 days, and a twi- light, varying from half an hour to twenty- four hours, suc- ceeded. For two months it was so dim that the dial of a watch could not be read by it. On April nth the sun came above the horizon and remained there 135 days, giving the party a great sufficiency of midnight sun. During three months the stars were visible constantly, the constellations of Orion's Belt and the Great Bear beincr the brightest. The North Star looked down from almost overhead. Standiiiq; alone outside the fort on one of these nights the scene was weirdly grand. To the north flamed the aurora borealis, and the bright constellations were set like jew^cls around the glow- ing moon. Over everything was dead silence, so horribly op- pressive that a man alone Is almost tempted to kill himself, so LIFE AT FORT CONGER. 343 lonely docs he feel. The astronomer of tlie party said tliat with tlie naked eye a star ol one cietrrtjc small(;r nuiL;iiiliidc than can be seen here in tlie same way mit^ht be discerned. The moon would remain in sight for Irom eleven to twelve days at a time. An aurora borcalis, as seen by the colonists at Upcrnavik, is thus described by one of their nimiber: "It fust appeared in an arch extendini^ from wcst-by-north to northeast; but the arch shortly after its first ai)pearance broke up and disappeared. Soon after this a new display bc^an in the direction of the western foot of the first arch, preceded by a bright flame, from which emanated rays of a pale straw-color. Another simultaneous movement occurred at both extremities of the arch until a complete segment was formed of wavering perpendicular radii. As soon as the arch was complete, the light became greatly increased, and the prismatic colors, which had before been laint, now shone forth in a brilliant manner. The strongest colors, which were also the outside ones, were pink and green, on the green side purple and pink, all of which were as imperceptibly blended as in die rainbow. The green was the color nearest the ze- nith. This magnificent display lasted a few minutes ; and the light had nearly vanished, when the northeast quarter sent forth a vigorous display, and nearly at the same time a cor- responding coruscation emanated from the opposite extremity. The western foot of the arch then disengaged itself from the horizon, crooked to the northward, and the whole redred to the northeast quarter, where a bright spot blazed for a mo- ment, and all was darkness. There was no noise audible during nny part of the phenomenon, nor were the compasses perceptibly affected." The long Arctic winter was necessarily monotonous, but the regular routine of observaticns, coupled with such mili- tary discipline as was not inappropriate to the climate and the mode of living, rendered it more tolerable. One hour's exercise daily was exacted of all. The men were required to bathe once a week, and great care was taken by frequent in- spection to see that the quarters and pardcularly the berths were; kept clean. The efficacy of the hygienic arrangements adopted is fully demonstrated by the fact that there was no scurvy in the expedition, notwithstanding that the water used was from melted ice invariably obtained from the floe. 1 ^1 m .,'M W. ' : I'M ' hi ? ! 344 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. Thanksgiving and national holidays were invariably cde. brated by a good dinner, and the first Christmas was ren- dered pleasant by presents for every member of the expedi- tion from unknown but thoughtful friends. The thermometer registered on June 30th, 1882, the h'vjh. est temperature at Lady Franklin Bay which we knew durinrr our stay. It was fifty-two degrees above zero. The lowest was in February, 1883, and was sixty-six degrees below zero. In this February our mercury froze and remained solid (or fifteen days, so intense was the cold. The mercury in the thermometer invariably rose during storms or high winds. The highest barometer was slightly above thirty-one inches and the lowest slightly below twenty-nine inches, showin<>- a ijreat ran^e. The greatest variations were in the winter. The electrometer, an instrument used to ascertain the pres- ence of electricity, was set up, but to the astonishment of Lieutenant Greely not the slightest results were obtained. The displays of aurora were very fine, but not to be compared with those seen at Disco Islan 1 or Upernavik. As lar as Lieutenant Greely could observe, no crackling sounds ac- companied the displays, and the general shape was that of a ribbon. The southwesterly horizon was the quarter in which the brightest displays were seen. Sir George Nares reported in 1876 that no shadow was cast by the aurora, but Lieu- tenant Greely says that he distinctly observed his shadow cast by it. There were no electrical disturbances save those manifested by a rumbling of distant thunder heard twice far away to the north. In the case of the tid il observations made, a very interest- ing fact was discovered, viz. : that the tides at Lady Franklin Bay come from the north, while those at Melville Bay and Cape Sabine come from the south. The temperature of the north tide is two degrees warmer than that of the south tide at Cape Sabine. Why this was Lieutenant Greely would not venture to state. He used in measuring the ebb and How of the tides a fixed gauge, an iron rod planted in the mud. The average rise of spring tides at Lady Franklin Bay was found to be eight feet. At Cape Sabine the highest tides rise twelve feet. Surf was only observed twice during the two years. AtLady Franklin Bay the average temperature of the water was twentv-nine decrees above zero, or three degrees bi low the freezing point. Wolves weighing ninety pounds were LIFE AT FORT CONGER. 345 killed around Fort Conq-er, and there are foxes and other animals there. Of fisii there is a wonderful scarcity. Per- haps the greatest surprise of the expedition was the taking rrom Lake Alexander, a fresh water lake, fifteen feet above the sea level, of a four-pound salmon. rVom the bay or sea only two very small fish were taken during the entire two years, and very few are to be found north of Cape Sabine, The vegetation at Lady Franklin Bay is about the same as at Cape Sabine, and comprises mosses, lichens, willows, and saxifrage. Snow-storms are, of course, most frequent, and rain falls very rarely. The highest velocity of the wind was registered during a terrific snow-storm — seventy miles per hour. Lockwood's trips to the north in 1882 and 1883 ^vere productive of the most valuable results. Standing, on the 19th of May in each year, where Dr. Hayes had formerly stood at about the same day, Lockwood, from an elevation of 2,000 feet, using his strong(\st glass on Hall's Basin and Robeson's Channel, could discern nothing but ice-packs. Here it was Dr. Hayes claimed to have s(M;n his open Polar Sea. Three memorable expeditions were luidertaken by the Grcely party from their station at Fort Conger, on Lady Franklin Bay. One was to the north, along the coast of Grinnell Land, by Dr. Pavy and Sergeant Rice. The second was also to the north, along the coast of GrecMiland, by Lieu- tenant Lockwood, in which the point farthest north was reached. The third was to the west, in the interior of Grin- nell Land, by Lieutenant Greely. In the lirst expedition, which consisted of Sergeant Rice, Dr. Pavy, and F2s(juimau Jens, the party, after visiting a couple of caches that had been previously deposited along the shore, left die land and trav- elled in sledges over the frozen ocean, with the object of qiettintr as far north as possible. The thrillinir incidents of the journey were carefully noted and most graphically de- scribed by Sergeant Rice in his diary. Nothing can more clearly portray the difficulties and dangers that beset Arctic travellers. The narrative is here given as found in the diary taken from the unfortunate explorer's dead body: "We travelled from floe to floe, through the bursting walls of ice, slipping and falling on the slippery and uneven footing at times and strufrirlinsf in soft snow at others ; extricating the dogs that got caught up in the hummocks, and cutting with i!^ I fl I J •1^11 II :, -I Am " ! ^11 ikh ' '^11 i 1 1 m 1 1 lii M ■ ■,!'! ^^1 Hi |p 1|. :': MHII mi ^ HI m ^ il^ j| (346) 75 z u 0! Z 'J < H < Q < a < ?4 AMONG THE FLOES. 347 axe through the most difficult passages ; raising the loaded g|g(l(re over icy obstacles and lowering it — with insecure foot- ing—on the other side. Then again we would stumble into treacherous snow which had crevices and fissures, and from which, standing thigh deep, we had the great^^st difficulty in extncatin(>' the sledge and landing it again on hard ice. We travelled over all the ground twice, it being impossible to move at all with more than half our load ; and the hopeful anticioation of reaching at last the eighty-fourth parallel, that buoyed us up when Cape Sheridan was left behind, had given way to a keen appreciation of the fact that if four miles per day could be made it would be all we could expect. This would place us at the highest latitude ever attained — for only twenty-five miles of ice lay between us and Markham's farth- est — and we had twenty days' rations still unconsumed ; but the value of our trip was fast depreciating when we reflected that the difference between the highest point we could reach and that already attained could give us little expectation or hope of unlocking any additional secrets of this mysterious sea. "We were at all times so beset and surrounded by hum- mocks that a view of even the shortest distance could only be attained by scaling a paleocrystic berg. After every short advance of perhaps fifty or seventy-five yards we would seek an elevation to ascertain where next an opening occurred. Often Jens, descending from an icy pinnacle, would turn to lis, and, withdrawing his hand from the mitten and liolding it palm upward, would extend his separated fingers and shake his head in a hopeless manner. Never, in all his existence in the land of desolation, had his eyes met such a view. Our observations from different points soon convinced us ll.at ad- vance directly north from Cape Henry was impossible, but the route across James Ross Bay toward Cape Hecla ap- peared to be better. "At 3 A. M., April 2 2d, after a dreary night — during which our sleep was disturbed by the howling of the dogs as ihey crowded against the tent for shelter from a strong southeast wind that was blowing — we aroused and preps; ed to start. The high wind of the night was followed by a strange bewil- dering morning, the atmosphere in an indefinable condition, which destroyed shadows and distorted heights and distances in a strange manner. The way appeared smooth until our , \^ ;: I l;iie tiU:l ^ \ tv I I IbiM t i 348 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. Stumbling, uncertain movements and false estimates of dis- tances proved that our eyes could not be trusted. We care- fully advanced — the conditions gradually becoming more favorable — until, as we neared the shore at Cape Hccla, Jens cried out: ' Emerk !' or, water ahead ! We paid no attention to his remark, which we supposed referred only to sohk" tidal crack or local affair, and were soon astounded to see before us a belt of open water e.xtending the whole line of coast from Hecla to Henry, and also as far as we could see toward Cape Columbia. To the north also there was an open space of water indica'ted by the heavy water clouds that luini^r ovei- the place. The water in front of us was at least half a mile wide, and ice of considerable weight and draught was sailino- toward Cape Henry with the tide. The doctor, by planting sticks and taking bearings on the land, soon proved that the floe was pivodng and swinging from the shore. "As usual, we had only half our effects on the sledge. We deposited these and returned to our camp for the others. Reaching the open water again, we found it had widened. After watching for some time in hopes of a favorable change in the movement of the ice, we decided that our only chance of getting off the floe was at Cape Joseph Henry, where, from our distant view, tiie ice appeared to touch the land. With light sledge, selecting only our most valuable effects — or rather those most necessary to our preservation — we started for the cape, and by a very forced march arrived near there at half-past four p. m. to find the water extending around Cape Joseph Henry and also to the northeast as far as we could see. We could do nothing more in any direction, and, this part of the floe appearing most likely to connect itseh with the land, we concluded to make it our headquarters and keep in readiness to take advantage of the first chance for landing. We melt some ice to quench our thirst, feed the dogs, and then select the most substantial-looking part of the floe — near the edire — where we can be close enoui:h for a dash ashore should opportunity offer, and at the same time safe from the possible breaking up of the margin of the ice. It next occurred to us that our near future might be a stay of months on the floe, in which case all our prov.'s;nns would not be too much. The doctor and Jens fhcn started tc return to the northern end of our track at Cape \-t)cli to bring that which we had abandoned. Two only wr -e r quired to go AMONG THE FLOES. 349 to go over the broken road ; in fact, for all of us to go would re- duce the chances for an occasional ride on die empty sledge (Toin*'^ out. The writer was at the time rather heavily handi- capped with a hand which had received a recent severe cut, and stayed behind. As it was necessary that a look-out shoukl be kept, I was to get some rest, so as to go on watch on the return of my companions. They left me at 7 r. m. The weather was then calm and pleasant. I had no shelter (the tent was part of the load for which they had returned), but as soon as I could give up the contemplation of our rather unpromising surroundings I crawled into my sleeping-bag, which I laici on the ice under the lee of a hummock. "When I turned in the sky was fair, with the exception of die heavy water clouds that hung to the north and west. I do not know how long I slept, but wn^ awakened by the snow driftin*^ in the mouth of my bag. I dragged myself out and found it snowing and drifting violently. The wind, which was evideiuly increasing, was from the north, and it at once occurred to me that the storm was local, originating in the water clouds that hung over the belts of water. My first step was to look up our traps, so that no article might be blown away or covered up. The small and light articles 1 tied to the heavy ones. I then looked about me, and admit that I thouofht there was cause for alarm. The snow was falling thickly and accompanied with a blinding drift off the ice, so that to windward I could see only a few yards. In the opposite direction the dark frowning front of Cape Joseph Henry loomed up through the storm with an awful and im posing appearance. Wishing to know if the pack had neared the shore, I clambered up the fringe of hummocks on the edcre of the floe, and saw that althoufrh the belt of water separating us from land had diminished in width, it still tornied an impassable barrier, showing up in inky blackness through the storm. 1 could not see far, but could follow its dark oudine some distance with the eye in the direction of Conical Hill and to the eastward, where it was lost in the storm, which enrobed everything in a white sheet. " 1 became very apprehensive for the safety of the doctor md Jens, as well as thinking my owi; situation rather critical. 'hey might become lost in the srotm and thus separated 'rem me, which might be a state c aFairs worse for them, as the pack might be breaking up and leave them cut off both 'Ir % li>: ' I I r ■ I WiT f . ; 't I'l' 350 ARCTIC EXPLOR/ 'IONS. :t ifa from the provisions they had gone lor and those with me The observation I made that the ice was moving out of James Ross Bay did not add to my peace of mind. This was cer- tainly the case, as the shore to the south around the cape was opening up gradually, I could do nothing but hope that the storm was local and would not be of long duration, and that my unfortunate companions might not go astray before i*- ceased. Being now about as cold from standintr in the storm as I could very well bear to be, I emptied the snow from the sleeping-bag and arranging the flap so as to keer) out as much of the snow as I could, I crawled in but was truly miserable; the snow was driven with such force as to effect an entrance through the smallest openings. Tliai which had entered at first, melted and then froze around m\ face and neck ; more drifted in, and, added to the physical discomforts, my anxiety was too great to admit of rest, Toward morning I fell into a doze. Occasionally lookinL; out, I found the weather still stormy but improving. "At a quarter-past four a,, m. I heard the dogs barking anci turned out to find my comrades safely returned. They haii been so fortunate as to reach the provisions and to start t(' return before the storm had attained a sufficient height to prevent them. After that the wind was in their backs, and the sagacious dogs faithfully following the tracks back, enabled them to travel with greater celerity than could be expected under such circumstances. They had had a very hard time, however, and were completely tired out. We erected the tent and prepared a meal, after which they turned in to sleep while I took up a position on the top of one of the hummocks at the edge of the floe. The morning had turned out a beau- tiful one after the storm, which ended as quickly as it had beijun. For some time I could note but little chanoe. but was convinced that the pack was moving but of James Ross Bay, as the land was opening up to view a»'Ound Conical Hill, and Cape Henry was presenting a different phase. After a few hours I was startled by the grinding, crushing noise of the ice in contact with the shore or ice-foot some distance to the west, inside the bay. It was evident that the pack had swung so as to touch the land and I instantly awakened my companions. They, poor fellows, had not been long asleep, and I am sure that nothinsj less than the intelligence that diere was a chance for escape would have induced them to over- AMONG THE FLOES. 351 come their weariness. Wc repainjtl again to our outlook, and alter concluding; that it was the ice antl land, not ice and ice, which were in contact — the pack, so far as we could see, was still unbroken — we hastily made preparations to land before the opportunity was lost, if there was any. "We quickly gathered up only what was necessary, leaving tent standing, with provisions, clothing, alcohol and dog- food, taking only sleeping bags, cooking apparatus and the chronometer and sextant. We thought tliere might be a chance to return for our other property, even if we could get ashore, and perhaps the contingency which we entertained as most likely was the probability of our return for a longer wait. The thundering noise of the grinding ice did not promise a very good portage. Jens, a little bewildered, drove rapidly in the direction of the sound, which a[)peared to be from a point about a mile inside of Cape Henry. As we neared the place the terrific noise of the grinding pack increased so that it was deafening, and our hurried remarks had to be shouted in each other's ears. Drawing near to the edge of the ice we found it undergoing a terrific pressure. The whole im- mense pack was moving steadily and perceptibly out of James Ross Bay, and at this point it was forced with tremendous weight against the lofty ice-foot, which similar causes had erected or strengthened for years. The ice-foot was forty or fifty feet in height, presenting a rugged front of immense blocks of ice cemented together, and its thousands of tons of weight could only have been forced up in such a manner by the mighty pressure of a frozen sea in motion. As we looked the edges of die floe would break, where weak, against the ice wall, and the pieces forced upward would be kept in motion like jugglers' balls for a while and then tumbled down into the narrow water space farther on where the (loe did not touch the land, or landed on some ledge that gave them lodg- ment. To cross amid this commotion appeared very danger- ous : but would we ever have another opportunity? Our consultation was carried on in shouts and pantomime. We drew near a point where it appeared comparatively easy to scale the ice-foot on the other side, and where the fallinsx debris of ice could be perhaps avoided. To test the feasibility of the passage, one of us dropped down to the lower level of broken ice that was held together by the pressure, and pass- ing almost completely over, returned quickly. Standing ■ i 55 !( ii; I' f» :i5 H! 35-^ ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. below, I assisted the dogs c:3wn as they were forced over- much against their will — by the doctor and Jens. Then the doctor, exhibiting great strength, lowered the sledge, with its light load, to the same level, Jens appeared to have lost his head. The dogs stood trembling and would not move. I took Redeye, the leading dog and the first to cross bad [)laces, under my arm and tried to drag the others along. The doctor was pushing the full weight of the sledge and jciis was urging the dogs. The latter could not keep their tracers from being caught upon the ice and I dropped Redeye to clear the lines. The intelligent brute had low gained confidence and began picking her own way, I next seized Howler, a dorr near at hand, and in this way — the doctor propelling the sledge from behind and Jens and I clearing the lines and dragging the dogs — we succeeded in reaching the other side to a ledge that gave me a secure footing, with the dogs all around me, but the sledge with the doctor was still on dan- gerous ground and no time was to be lost. I had an open knife in my teeth with which to cut the dogs clear should they become inextricably entangled, and it now came in use in clearing the lashing of the sledge. lens unloosed the doers, and, pulling them past me, they filed one by one up the slip- pery steps which the rocks and projections of ice in the wall afforded. From the top the animals looked down on us with scared faces, some of them whining piteously. With great difficulty I followed them, but when pari of the way up 1 dis- lodged a large piece of ice which, striking me in the stomach, carried me sprawling to the lower level, but fortunately not falling on me. "Another attempt was more successful. I carried the seal- skin thong, and, reaching the top, pulled up, one by one, the different articles that comprised our load and which the doctor and Jens made fast to the other end. They next, after all the load was safe, fastened the line to the sledge and joined me on the top of th6 ice-foot when the sledge was pulled up after them. It was ten a. m. While crossing we were so absorbed as not to notice the motion of the ice, but I think it must have stopped swinging for a moment, held by the pressure of the pack, as we were strangely free from the falling blocks which were in motion when we started across. Be that as it may, our passage was very propitious, for as soon as we could look about from our new and safe vantage ground we found the AMONG 'IHE FLUES. !53 pack still moving out with a j^reat noise from the terrible grind- iiitr ani.1 friction. It appeared to touch only at one point and a short distance in the bay. At Cape Henry's outward point we could see the open water boiling- and eddying with the tide which sweeps around this prominent point with great rapidity. We knew the appearance of the particular floe on which we had encamped, and soon got a view of our tent, bui it was much farther out than Wi) exi)ected. The swinging of the great pack was carrying it out (juite rapidly. Notwith- staiuling our safety, it was fH»l pleasant to see our only shelter, and with it all our provisions, iciuipments and hopes of reaching the 'highest,' receding from our view on the frozen ocean, "It was a great disappointment. We had succeeded in advancing our provisions and outfit to a point wiiich promised us at least the satisfaction of attaining a hight.T latitude than ever before reached. Of course this would have been but a barren victory, for we knew that the terrible character of the ice before us would not permit a sufficient distance to be made to solve the question of presence of land to the north, and we knew that our experience would only add to the opinion of our |)redecessors' — that the frozen ocean cannot be traversed by sledges, and of course not at all. Our hardest work was over, the coldest temperature past, and to be stopped so near the end of our journey was not pleasan^ When, however, we looked down on the seething black water that separated us from the field of our labors we could not deny that we were fortunate in escaping when we did. We have nothing more to do with an attempt to get north; nothing remains but to return to the station. So states my sledge journal, and we looked about lor a passage around the cape. We found it practicable — very rough, but our sledge was now very light, and it was better than going up the bay and crossing Fieldin Peninsula. "Satisfied with the outlook, we returned to the sledge, melted r-'^me ice, and hitching up started for View Point, where our first cache ot provisions was, and which we must re:ach before we could get a meal. We arrived at View Point at 1 1 p. m. The temperature was 49° at the time, and in fact the weather had been comparatively warm after the open water occurred. This made our first sleep in the bags without shelter very pleasant. Next day, April 24th, we made another long step 23 (! ■ , 354 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. ' 1 ^i|| ( i' * ,• i ■51, • il- ■'!!,!; : ■ Wi 'j ■ I i ..iLJli homeward. The ice seemed fast in Marco Polo Bay, so we started across for Harley's Spit. It soon bct;an to snow thici movcil, as if in Ljra/.iiv^. Wc arrived at J.incohi Bay on the iQtli, where we ietl the doirs for only tlie s(;con(l time in fivo Jays. Ill the eveninc,^ of the same date we were ai^ain on the way home, following- along the coast lin(.'. Wn did not find the ice disturbed at any j)laee afti-'r leaving l»lack Cape. As wc anticipated, the disruption was at the northern t.-ntra-nce of Robeson Channel, and bordering on the Polar Sea. The ice in the straits remained intact, because more landlocked. held beiwe(Mi the two shores. On May ist we were at depot B, near Cape Beechey, and were able to learn something of the movenKMits of the other party by the notes U'St in the record-book by the travellers passing through. " NV'xt day, after six hours' pieasant travelling over the well-beaten track between depot B and Fort Conger, we arriv(.'d at the latter place. As we neared the station, on which tiie sun was shining brightly, with the Stars and .Stripes waving gayly over it, we considered it very cheerful in ap- pearance, and contrasting favorably with its desolate look when last we saw it. In fact, the old station always looks invitin<'' to returning travellers, altbou''h, as a human habita- don, it may not be either elegant or commodious. We found the quarters almost deserted. The Greenland party was still out in the held, and the commanding officer, with a party of three, had started a week before for the int(;rior. Of the officers, only Lieutenant Kislingbury was at the station, Israel lid Gardiner of the observers, and hve of the working party. A breakfast of delicious musk-ox steak, washed down with a bottle of wine, made us feel at home again. We could not have procured the same viands in civilization that morning — our appearance was too much against us. We should have passed for tramps. With noses and cheeks scarified and peeled by the frost, eyes red and swolbm with incipient snow- blindness, hair unkempt, and beards half growm and bleached nearly white, we were not lovely to look upon. Looking over the records of the temperature at the station during our absence, we found that the maximum for March was — 8.0; minimum, — 46.6, and mean, — 29.9 — not so cold as was ob- served in the field. The mean temperature for April was —8.6; maximum, +13.9; minimum. — 42.1. Mercury froze for the last time on April 3d, and rose above zero for the first time on April 8th, making 160 consecutive days during which 'f!; ■ H ! ■SI! Ii I r I ^'*>-^^^'^%, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) I 1.0 I.I ■^ Ui2 12.2 |W gj^ lis m |i.25 i i.4 Va V. f / Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 33 WEST MAIN S1REET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14SS0 (716) S73-4S03 ^•v 5V < '^ o o^ o^ \56 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. Mm' the temperature was below zero. The weather at Fort Con ger was now beautiful, and the dogs lay basking in the sun enjoying their well-deserved rest. The travellers were also enjoying the change ot" life which returned sledgers only can appreciate. Never did our beds seem softer, our fare so ex- cellent, or a bath so welcome." The most important of the undertakings by cx|)l()rincT parties from Lady Franklin Hay was the journey of Lie ntcir. ant Lock wood to the north, along the coast of Greenlaiul. In it he attained at Lock wood Island the highest point of the globe yet reached by foot of man, and looked off on the frozen ocean beyond for some twenty-five or thirty miles more. No land was visible to the north or northwest, but to the northeast could be descried a cape jutting out fnun the coast, which will probably prove to be the northernmost j'oint of Greenland. The expedition, after incredible hardships, returned to Fort Conger on June ist, 1883. after an absence of two months. The North Greenland sledginr; party, as it was called, were only turned back from proceeding farther by the drifting ice of the Polar Ocean, after tliey had narrowly escaped being carried out to sea. An account of their adven- tures and discoveries is given by Sergeant Rice in his inter- esting diary. The writer says he is indebted to Sergeant Brainard, who accompanied Lieutenant Lockwood, for most of his information, which Sergeant Brainard's admirably kept sledge journal amply afforded. " In fact," says Sergeant Rice, " the record of many intelligent observations and inter- estincT details are lost siijht of in this account, in which I con- fine myself to a record of the principal features of their expe- rience and a comprehensive connection of the same. To do this, I have laken notes from the sledge-journal, and have been assisled by the gossip of the sledgers, with which the quarters were of course rife after their return." The narra- tive is here given in Sergeant Rice's own language, than which none could be more appropriate : "On April 3d the main party, bound for North Greenland, left the station. They pulled out of Shift Rudder Bay on the evening of the 5th, intending to travel by night and sleep during the warmest part of the day. The outfit consisted of one dog-sledge, with team and driver (Fred), and four Hud- son Bay .sledges (toboggans). To the former Lieutenant Lockwood and Sergeant Jewell were attached, while the LOCKVVOODS JOURNEY. 157 Hudson Bay slcdsres were manned by Rrainard, Ralston, Sal<:r. Micderbeck. Mlison, Fredericks, Henry, Wliistler, Lynn, aiul Coniiell. Two of the- sledi^es were pulled by three men each, and two were drawn by two men each. The party follovvetl tile northern Bend of Shift Rudder Bay until Cape Ikcchey was r«.'achcd, after which they struck across for tlie Grcdland shore. At the end of the first march they went into camp on the ice, erectin;^ their tents. This day's halt was hardly a rest, for th(*y found their sleepiiio-bag^s frozen into the semblance of sheet-iron casings. Only by gradually introducing their bodies to thaw out the bags by degrees could they envelop themselves. Their position on the ice a few miles from shore was very exposed and unsheltered. The temperature was — 47 degrees. Sleep was an impossi- bility to most of the travellers. Morning brought its changes. Henry, afflicted with rheumatic pains, was compelled to re- turn home, and Connell, with a frozen foot, was carried in the dog sledge to the shore to follow him. The main party kept on across the straits, Jewell taking the place of one of the men who had returned, and ':he place of the other being supplied by 'doubling up.' "Ajiril 7th. — They are still toiling over the rough highway of the straits, the travelling at most times execrable. Strug- idling through places where the ice was of the worst descrip- tion, where their sledges were continually being overturned, alternating with patches of deep snow, they found themselves on a paleocrystic floe, where the conditions for travelling were much more favorable. Here! tiiey again camped. The wind was blowing violently ; temperature — 29. Cooking under the circumstances was very difficult, as the small tent, violently agitated by the wind, precipitated a constant fall of the rime that was condensing on its sides and roof, damping the spirit lamp and the spirits of the cook. The inmates of the sleep- in;^r-ba<4S were not exempt from the inconvenience; of the min- iature snowstorm, for it showered upon every barefaced ex- posure and insinuated itself in the mouths of the bags. At 9 r. M. the party is again under way. A snowstorm coming on during the night had so incn^ased as to force them into camp at 2 A. M. of the 8th, before completing the allotted number of travelling hours. Biederbeck and Saler, drawing a toboggan, became detached from the main body, and attempting to fol- low the tracks of the dog sledge lost sight of their compan- UU II '■ 358 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. !li' M (■• ■*■ i ; :•' iir ■[:'■ f ions. The storm comin.' i* Is.: IH ' ) ; ^■;' t:-|,- . i ll -J-; .1, I': stones and masses of snow in such a manner as to raise; their apprehensions of even greater misfortunes than the discom- fort the cold wind caused them. Brainard notes an especially remarkable sight he witnessed when a large body of snow starting from a high elevation among the rugged cliffs, came pouring down like a cataract of foam. It was a perfect snow- cascade, leaping from rock to rock like a mountain stream. Next day is spent at the boat camp making preparations for starting nortli from this point. " Lieutenant Lock wood returns from Fort Conger and biinfrs some small articles of clothing and letters from their com- rades. The latter were very welcome, and served to anuisc and interest the unhappy travellers more than one who jias not been similarly situattxl can understand. On the i6di the wind is strong. The Hudson Bay sledpes are repaired; one completely worn out is abandoned. This increased the weight on the others, so that the weight on one sledge was at least two hundred and twenty pounds to a man. At twenty-four minutes past lo r. m. the party have pulled out from the boat camp and are plodding across Newman Bay, headed for the ' Gap Valley ' — not * Gap,' which is south of them. April i 7th finds them in the * Gorge,* which they en- tered from the Newman Bay side and by which tiiey intended to travel overland so as to cut short the projection of land at Cape Brevoort, Temperature at midnight is — 9, light snow falling and the .sun above the horizon. The i8th was a very trying day, and every one was completely exhausted after the march, which was attended with worse travelling than they had yet encountered. The snow was lying deep, and over it there was formed a crust just strong enough not to bear. Through this the feet and sledges broke at every step. "April 19th. — The travellers are still tramping overland to- ward Repulse Harbor. The Hudson Bays are maimed for thirteen consecutive hours. It is a significant fact that the dorr sledjTfe could travel over the same frrounci in four iiours. On the 20th only about four miles were made. The travel- ling in the valleys, the coast not yet reached, presented a new feature on the 21st. The deep snow was succeeded by patches of bare ground and gravel beds over which the sledges could only be dragged by standing pulls. The fol- lowing day they enter Repulse Harbor by the valley through which the watercourse empties, and grope their way down the I'" ' <■ 1' I LOCKWOODS JOURNEY, 361 dryj2[orge to the bay with little knowledge of their where- abouts or surroundinrrs. "Tlicy stumbled blindly on until the nature of the travelling indicated that they were once more on the coast or an arm of the sea. The storm forced the party into camp. To go into camp does not, however, always secure rest or comfort to the Arctic sledger. Our litde band were busily occupied for two hours before their tents were sufficiently secured to insure their not being carried away by the storm. Then the trials of the cook — a miniature snowfall showering on his heaa, down his back and over his lamp and utensils, and these latter burning the hands whenever they arc touched, until the sputtering lamp raises them to a higher temperature. I cannot do better than transcribe from I3rainard's journal an entry made on this occasion : * Siiorty ' is cook. After the tent is closed up he finds that the fuel (alcohol) is outside under a huge snow-drift, which covered the side of the tent and completely closed the entrance, making it necessary for him to tunnel his way through to the outside. Here new obstacles intervened: the alcohol is four feet under the snow and the shovels all covered up. But he manfully digs away with his hands, occasionally stopping to utter anathemas on Arctic work generally.*" On April 24di the travellers are winding their way along the shore to the northward, with Repulse Harbor behind them. On the 25th Fred, the dog driver, is sick and unable to take his accustomed place behind the traces. He guides the dogs by wielding the whip from the top of the load, on which he has been placed. The party is near Cape Stanton. The travellers encamped to-day on a more northerly point on the coast of Greenland than had ever before been attained by Americans. They were enjoying fine weather, the indirect effects of which are indicated by a humorous allusion in Brain- ard's diary to Fredericks* proficiency in snoring. I do not think the circumstance would have been noticed at any pre- vious stage of the journey. On April 26th the cache of provisions left by Lieutenant Beaumont is discovered and found to contain forty rations in good condition. The red heart rum was especially well pre- served. The travelling was good and the prospects bright- ening. I find Brainard extolling in an unqualified manner the maps of the coast as laid down by the British expedition. ■I ' .'■ • ) ■ I m li t" ;' r" 362 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS, April 27th. — SkirtinjL; along the coast the party passed Hand and Frankfield Bays. Cape Bryant, their m.xt obii c- tive point, stands out bold and invitinj^, apparently but a short distance ahead. A cynic would say, however, had he i:v(i travelled in the Arctic, that with the exception of a woman nothing is so deceiving as an Arctic landscape. Here dis- tances cannot be very correctly estimated by the eye. Our travellers stepped out hopefully, but hour after hour tluy plodded on without perceptibly diminishing the distance. Quite tired out, the camp is at last reached. The tempera- ture is — 15. The ind'-ruigable PVedericks, affectionately called "Shorty" by his comrades, freezes his fingers while lashing up the broken ridge-pole of the tent. The outlook of tiie party was now becoming very encouraging, about twenty-five miles having been made in the last two tlays and the travelling ahead apparently very good. To the north- ward Cape May and other |)rominent points presented a fine view. This day a small covey of ptarmigan were faih-n in with and Esquimau Fred killed five. The 28th was j)assed as a day of rest, preparatory to the final dash of the advance party and the return of the supporters. The clear weather afforded the party a fine view of Cape Britannia and St. An- drew's Bay, from which latter place the English party were forced to return. April 29th the party separated, Lynn, Jewell, Ralston, Eli- son, Fredericks and Saler starting back for Boat Camp, and Lieutenant Lockvvood, Brainard and Esquimau Fred con- tinuing on to the north. With the supporting party we have now nothing to do. They had performed their work well and faithfully through the worst, and deserve the highest credit for it. We will now follow the fortunes of Lieutenant Lockwood and his companions. After the good-byes and handshakings were over — good-byes that in this case had the appropriate accompaniment of tears from at least three of the party who were greatly affected with snowblindness — the dogs were directed across St. George's Fiord. They had rations for dogs and men for twenty -five days, which, with moderate good fortune, should enable them to trace a great di tnnce of coast line and place them at a far higher point than had ever been attained on the Greenland continent The party camped at one a. m., dogs very tired. Brainard is suffering LOCKWOOI) S JOURNEY. 363 from snow-blindness and essays to find relief by poulticini^ his eves with tea leaves. Snow laid so heavy that two loads were inacle and t^^round travelled over twice. May Day under such circumstances ! The weather is very warm and at midiiii^iit the temperature is — 27 degrees, iccompanied by wind. This was tiie first occasion on which die temperature was at the tree/ing point of water in the tent since they started out. The snow becoming worse as they k(;pt in the bay, Lieutenant Lockwood decides to head directly for Cape Britannia instead of Cape May, as at first intended. Lines of ice hummocks skirted the fiord at intervals. On May 3d, when near Cape May, Lieutenant Beaumont's farthest, they found that a tidal crack of considerable extent had opened up, Th.is offered an opportunity for deep sea sounding, of which the travellers at once availed themselves. Four hundred and twenty-four feet of line, 240 of sealskin lashing and some rope — in all 820 feet — was lowered with the lead. No bottom. The whip was then added, but the weight failed to reach soundings. In pulling up the line it parted and all except the whip and seventy feet of rope was lost. On May 4th our travellers are nearing Cape Britannia, their Ultima Thule heretofore. They have alrc^ady passed Lieutenant Beaumont's farthest. At seven w m. Capt* Britan- nia is reachedj and the American Hag enthusiastically raised over land never before trodden by man. Lieutenant Lock- wood now made his first observations for latitude and longi- tude, and found, as near as he could compute it, that the position given to chat point by the Nares map was correct, although the expedition did not reach the place. The travel- lers ascended the cape, which they found to be about 2,700 feet high, and affording a fine view. Britannia appeared to be an island, and was not the termination of Greenland, for they could see unknown land extending to the northeast. Lieutenant Lockwood, inspired with an explorer's ardor, indi- cated to the driver, Fred, a prominent point on the new land to tlic north, and promised him a reward of 100 krons — cur- rency with which Fred was familiar — if he succeeded in get- ting his dogs that far. After leaving Cape Britannia the travelling was good. On the 5th the party heard the grinding of the ice in the distance. While lashing the sledge Fred told Brainard he thought the ice outside was moving. A tidal crack 100 yards wide was 364 ARCTIC I'Xri.ORATIONS. seen. Thry travelled Insiilc ol this over the enilnyd or landlocked ice, wiiicli tlid not ap|)<'ar to have l)(<'n iuokcn for many years. May r.ili il„. dot^s were ^o ravcnoii', ihai they actnally chewed up i|„. wooden casing ol" die d,,.,., inonieler. 'Iliis was sli(>\\iivj almost as miidi (onicinid lor scii-nce as did " Kiny." ol (mr team, when he aj»|)(are(l lo mistake one ol' those nidi. nary thermal instniuK iiis for a hviji'ometer. i'enipeintiMc + 6.'' Onr travellers were now en- joyino- t\\v. satisfaction ot lol. lowing a coast lino never he- fore seen. New points were reached from time to tiim. The coast was formed of a rapid succe; 'on of project ions and capes, with inlets and l);ns of more or less depth iiiterveii. ino. A prominent point, wliic h they calletl Hiack C'a|)e, was passed this day, and they caniped on the morninj^ of the 7th at a smaller point a little farther on, wiiich was did)l)e(i Kah- bit Point, because of the killino ol a har(; as they were eoiii!' into camp. Animal life did not ajii)ear less abundant !,< re than farther south. Traces of musk o.xen, not fresii, an5 Tlu'V th<*n crosstrd a lar^^*: (iord (Mi'i,L(,!L;s) and rcacln*! (!ap(; Sloriii (I loHiiH.'yi'r). The coast liin; trciidcd lo the iiorllirast and cadi cape, until passed, c()inj)lel(;Iy hid tlu; next from view, riu: traveUin-^ was very _L;()od ; tiieir h)ad was dfcreas- jiic at ev(;ry march and ra|)id proLjrctss was Ixrin;^^ made each ihy. I'Vom Shoe Ishmtl (Mary Murray Island) they start<:d 01) the i.lllii iind in out; loni; marcii — Shoe Ishin(l is in latitude; ,Sj dcn^. 19 min., longitude 42 tU'.'j^. 21 min. — j)as'>ed " Wild I'iord." liumnjock Capt; (Cape K. I. Dodt^^e), W«:ypr(;cht In- let, " I'yramiil Island" (iirainard Island), and reach(;d th<:ir jartliest at twenty-live minuti^s to tw«'ive i'. m. of the same dat(\ It was snowin-jj hard at the time ami a strong; wind was hlow- jnir. Lieutenant Lockwood here decided lo j)r )ceed no lartlxM*, hut, alter sto|)|)in;^ '""K^ enouiLjh to take a s(;ries of observations to determine his position, to start on the return journey. The party had made six marches from Cape Hritan- nia. It was thirte(;n days since they had left Cape Bryant, aiul as they wen; provisioneil from the latter point with only twenty-live days* rations, half or more was already consumed. At 10 A.M., May 14th, the storm ceased and the observations W(;re taken, afl(;r wliich a cairn was built and souk; specimens of tiie vei^etation, chiefly lichens, and rock colUxted. To ob- tain observations for ecpial altitudes it was necessary to remain over till the next day, the 15th. Aft(;r takinjjj said observations Lieutenant Lockwood and Scri,^(.'ant Hrainard ascended the highest elevation on the cape they iiad reached to obtain a view to the northward. They attained an elevation of 2,600 to 3,000 feet in heii;ht, and could see to the northeast, distant about eitjht miles, another ca|)e (Kane). The intervenini:; fiord (Conii^er Inl(;t) appeared to connect widi the one to the south of them (Weyprecht), thus making of the land on which they stood an island. Hack to tile eastward of them a mountain (Mount Howgate) about f 366 ARCTIC EXI'LORAIIONS. to the latter opinion — probably a low cirrus clouil (jr the evaporation from a tidal crack. Should it be land it appears to luivt' taken a direction more directly north than the coast tiiey had disovt^red. Out upon the Polar Ocean to tli( nonl, their view was more extended, includint^, so they iiiin|<, a ran7 of tliosc phenomena which he had hcforc seen. It cxliihilcd bcaiiiitiil prismatic colors and formed in contact arclics and coiu< lUric circles. On the niorniniLC ^' ^'^^- 24th Cap(! liryant vas readied, and the sledgers found their cache in j^ood order and were able to replenish their stock of provisions, whicli was so depleted that nolhint^ r(;niained on the sledj^e except four ounces of t(;a, half an ounce of onion powder and a handful of cracker dust. The doi^s wen; almost starved, as will ajjpear by the fact that Uiey obtained acc(.'ss to a small quantity of shotgun ammunition and actually gnawed thecart- j.j(l,^r(;s — probably because of the grease on the watls — sending their teeth through the metal of at least a dozen of them. At Cape Bryant soundings were taken through a tidal crack about a quarter of a mile outsiile the cape, and the bottom found at 1 14 feet. Thcry used the line left on tlie outward trip. At this time snow-blindness was making it very un- pleasant for the travellers. Tl»ey left Cape Bryant on May 26th and killed another ptarmigan on the way. Four miles south of the cape they found the cache of outfit discarded b) Lieutenant Beaumont's party when an attempt was nrdfXv. to cross the straits. On the 27th our travellers changed their moccasins for sealskin boots, the snow being damp enough to wet their feet. They are on the west side of Repulse Har- bor on the 28th, and find another cache and record left by Lieutenant Beaumont. On May 29th they an* at lioat Camp with the men who were awaiting their return, antl the whole party cross the straits and arrive at the home station on June 1st. Two or three of the party were suffering very much from snow-blindness, and during the last march Ralston had to be led. '• ' );■■!: \iim lii -'!''!' i" : A ■> H S'.!-|^! -.It,:.. I i^i^: ^1 ^JJ ;! i'vlri? IML '. J, V f» Ij ft,.i:h :rl:'^!i :tl,li!!l CHAPTER XXIII. NEAR THE NORTH POLE. Animal Life and Vegetation of Grinnell Land— Major drecly's Journeys into the Interior of CJiinnclI Land — Wondi-rful Natiir.d I'hcnomena — A (Ilr.ciei- liursls — JoiirnaliMii Near the Norih Pole — The Arctic Mi)on — Amuscniciils and Pastimes of tlie Kxploiers. Animal life was abundant, with scant vegetation slmilai to tiiat met with in Grinnell Land. Traces of hares, lem- mings, ptarmigan and snow bunting, and the tracks of a bi;ar, were seen, and droppings of the musk ox as far as twenty miles north of Cape Britannia. Looking to the northeast- ward from an elevation of about two thousand feet, the land was seen for about fifteen miles, the farthest point. Cape Robert Lincoln, being in about latitude 83 deg. 35 min., and longitude -58 de '^rees west. Aldiough the weather was un- usually clear, no other land could be seen, the lorizon beini; e.xamined carefully to the northward and northwestward. On the 15th they started south, picking up en route the union jack and sextant left by Lieutenant Beaumont, of the Nares expedition, during his extraordina»-y retreat with a scurvy- 'otricken party in 1875, and, rejoining the three men who had remained at Cape Summer, Newman Bay, the combined party returned to Fort Conger, where tluiy arrived on June 1st, after an absence of fifty-nine days, all in good condition, except that two of the supporting party were snow-blind and had to be led into camp. Game was abundant, more than one hundred musk oxen being seen, besides hares and birds. From the summit of Mount ArtluM* Major Greely, who was alone able to make the ascent, was satisfied from the trend of the mountains and the appearance of the country that Grinnell Land ended but a short distance tc the westward, and that its coast line must run nearly southwest from the extreme point reached by Lieutenant Aldrich, Royal Navy, in 1876. The sledging sea- son over, travelling by land was almost impracticable, but early in August Major Greely went to Cape Dcfossc in the (368) NEAR THE NOR'IH POLE. 369 he Interior ;»!isin Near I CVS. simiKii cs, 1cm- : a bear, > twenty )rtheast- :hc land It, Cape nin., aud was iin- n beino rd. On c union Nares scurvy- A'lio had )nibined on June ndition, [lintl and Isk oxen limit of fo make bins and M but Ine must :hecl by jrinir sea- [bl('. but in the steam launch and found Kennedy Channel perfectly clear of ice throiij.rhoiit its whole extent. The following is a statement of the game killed by Lieu- tenant Greely's party in the region adjacent to Lady Franklin Ikiy during their long stay in the frozen North : August, 1881 — 16 musk oxen, 1 hare, i ptarmigan. September, 1881 — 5 wolves, 10 musk oxen, i seal. February, 1882—7 hares. March, 1882 — 1 lemming, 4 hares. April, 1882 — I fox. May, 1882 — 2 lemmings, 3 musk oxen, 5 seals, i hare. June, 1S82 — i wolf, 4 lemmings, 18 m"sk oxen, i seal, 11 hares, 17 king ducks, 6 long-tailed ducks, 20 dovekins, 2 bur- cromaster gulls, i Arctic fox, 20 sknas, 5 brent geese, 7 ptar- mi.q;ans, 7 turnstones. July, 1882 — 4 ermines, 10 musk oxen, 2 hares, 3 long-tailed ducks, 19 eider ducks, i Sabine gull, 5 Arctic terns, 1 18 sknas, 27 brent geese, 6 turnstones, i sand piper, 14 owls. August, 1882 — 2 ermines, 33 musk oxen, 2 seals, 11 hares, 5 king ducks, 6 long-tailed ducks, 7 eider ducks, 13 dovekins, I burgomaster gull, 3 Arctic terns, 40 sknas, 37 brent geese, 32 ptarmigans, 54 turnstones, i sandling, 16 knots, 2 ringed plover, 2 owls, i walrus. September, 1882 — 3 foxes, i ermine, i musk ox, 3 seals, 2 hares, 1 raven, 3 ptarmigans, 1 turnstone and i owl. November, 1882 — i fox and i musk ox. December, 1882 — i seal. February, 1883 — i hare. March, 1883 — 1 ermine and 3 hares. April, 1 883 — 2 hares and 4 ptarmigans. May, 1883 — 3 musk oxen, 2 seals, 7 hares and 11 turn- stones. June, 1883 — I wolf, 2 foxes, 8 musk oxen, 3 seals, 14 king ducks, 27 long-tailed ducks, i eider duck, 21 dovekins, i diver, 3 burgomaster geese, 12 Arctic terns, 12 brent geese, 15 ptarmigans, 28 turnstones, 8 knots, i owl and i philarope. July, 1883 — I lemming, 3 hares, 8 king ducks, 5 long-tailed ducks, 2 brent geese, 3 turnstones, 2 knots and i philarope. August, 1883 — 3 seals, 6 long-tailed ducks, 3 eider ducks, 6 dovekins, i brent goose, 1 turnstone and i knot. A summary of the above gives a total of all game killed as follows: 7 wolves, 7 foxes, 8 ermines, 8 lemmings, 103 :. i' / • m M . ::'! j'1' 370 AKCriC EXriX)RATlONS. musU oxiri, 19 seals, 57 Iiaivs, 44 king clucks, 53 Ioiit;-t;ulcil ducks, ^o cider tlucks, 60 dovtkins, i diver, 6 bur^oiiiasui gulls, 1 Sabine .l;u1I, 21 Arctic terns, 1 7S sknas, .S4 hiim geese, i raven, 79 lUarniigans, 100 turnstoiu;s, i s;uul|)i|>( r, I sandlini;, 27 knots, 2 ringed plovers, iS owls, 2 ijiulan)|)(s anil 1 walrus. The above statement of the game found Ly ilu; Laily I'rankiin Bay ex[)eilition, which was prepareil by Seij^caiit. Hrainard, is of inttrrest as showini; what specie-s of birds and animals frequent (irinnell Laiul, anil at what season ol die year the migratory birds return to that region. No j^ainc was killed during the montiis ot October, November and MUSK ox HUNTINC. IN TMK ARC TIC RKGIONS December, 1881 ; January and October, 1882, and January, 1S83, when hunting was impossible on account of the dark- ness and cold. The solitary musk ox killed in Novenibi;r, 1882, was found by the party which was sent during that month to Carl Ritter Bay, though there can be no doubi that it is resident throughout the year, subsisting during the winter season on saxifrage and the scant grass, to find which it re- moves the snow with its hoofs. The number of these animals seen disproves tlie theory advanced by Major Feilden in his paper on mamm dia (see " Voyage to the Polar Sea," volume ii., page 201, Nares) "that the number of musk oxen in Grinnell Land is extremely limited," and was well nigh ex- hausted by the onslaught made by th<; Nares expedition during the winter of 1875-76. NRAR TIIK NOKTII I'Or.K. o7^ Soon after the return of Ser^t-ant Rice, I )r. Pavy and tlic I{s(iiiiinaii Jens, Lieutenant (lr(*ely cauK! hack to I'Ort Conifer after an exploration of (;l(;ven days in tlu* int<;rior of (irinn<:ll Land to tlu; westward (jf th(t station, 'I'lury arrived on tl-e cvenini,' of Miiy 7tli, i.S.Sj. LieutcMiant (iret^ly expected to 1)(; [Tone a niucli Ioniser tiuK; and liis appearance was a sur- prise, riie followinn sk<-tcn of his discoveries and tlie adven- tures of tlie party is from tlu; graphic \)v.n of Serg(;ant Rice, as recorded in his diary : Tlie coinniandtrr started Ironi l'"ort Con^tT on April 20lh with the purpose of travelhn;4 westward over tlie coiuitry until, if possible*, the western coast ol (iriunell Land slivould be reached. I le was accompanied by Serjeants Cross and Long and Privates Connell, Bender and Whisth.T. Cross and Long were supporting, and rtrturned after two days. 'I'he party visited the English cache at Stony I'oint and appropriat(,'d such of the contents as they refpiired, and llien proceeded up Conybeare liay. This opening had not hvcvx <.'xplor(.'d by the Enijlish and was found much thtcpi.-r than ih(;y supposed, Li(;u- tenant Archer passed the mouth of the bay and has mapped out its entrance very correctly, but our travellers foimd it to be thirty miles deej) instead of t(Mi. At the head of the bay three valleys were found leading into it, but none were prac- ticable for travelling. On April 28th they opened out a new fiord, which they entered and found to be about three miles wide and fifteen to twenty long, running north-norduvest. It was surrounded and enclosed by lofty, frownmg cliffs, strangely imposing and picturesque. In the valleys before mentioned musk oxen and wolves were seen. Into the fiord, afterward named after Captain Howgate, there emptied a river, on the icy surface of which they travelled some distance before its diaracter was discovered. The ice runninfif together it was difficult to observe where the fiord ended and the river becran ; but as they advanced the evidences of its being fresh w.ite.', and not an arm of the sea, multiplied, Th(;y noticed that the water forced up in the cracks was brackish, and gradually grew fresher. Farther on Lieutenant Greely found the .stream to be open, with evidences of its having remained so all the year round. The travelling was now of the finest description. The fresh water from the open channel of the stream inundated the ice that covered the shallower parts abutting the banks 372 ARCriC EXPLORATIONS. ■ Mm Mm i±±. and over which the party was travelling. This thin sliL^t of water freezing- without any inequalities gave to their icy Iijuli. ways the appearance of a waxed floor or a plain covered \vitli laminated steel. It was almost too smooth, for it was no easy matter to keep the footing. The great reflective quali- ties of the polished ice also caused much inconvenience from snow-blindness, with which one member of the party (Wliistlc^r) was especially affected. But these were slight drawbacks compared with the great advantages they were enjoyinc Probably no Arctic travellers were ever so favored as thesr-. The sledges glided over the ice without requiring the least exertion to draw them. In fact, it was difficult to keep in advance of them. At one time the commander judgeil that four and a half miles were made in one hour. He arrived at this conclusion from counting his steps, which were meas- ured. After meeting with the open water of the stream a few steps to the edge of the ice furnished them with a delicious draught of pure ice water — a boon which no mortal except an Arctic traveller or perhaps a wanderer in the deserts of Africa can fully appreciate. A small island in the river was next discovered and the source of the river soon reached. It proved to be a large lake, from fifty to seventy-five miles long and about seven broad. It was open at the point from which it fed the river, where the accelerated movement of the water wore away the ice by attrition or prevented it from forming at all. The stream also starting out with great rapidity was open tor about three mile.s, and, as already stated, had the appearance of remaining so all the year round. The depth of the river at its head was three and a half feet, width fifty yards in its nar- rowest part, increasing to about three miles at its estuary. Along the valley thus drained the party found enough drift- wood, of the ground willow, to serve for fuel. Abundant traces of game — musk oxen, hares and foxes — were seen in all directions, and they were led to believe that these animals had not migrated during the winter. The traces bore the stamp of continuous occupation of the ground, and, as nearly as I could learn, resembled those seen by Dr. Pavy and the writer near Lincoln Bay. Small fish, resembling minnows, were seen at the head of the stream. Lieutenant Greely and his party now pushed on over the lake, following its south side for a short distance. Here the snow was found to lie very NEAR TIIE NORTH POLE. 373 deep and the party found good use for their snow shot^s. They S001 left the short^s of the lake and started across for its west side, having for their objective point the mouth of a valley through which the commander hoped to continue west- ward. As they neared the shore, which they reached the next day, they saw that a glacier of great size and magnificence filled the valley and abutted on the lake. On the examination which a closer proximity afforded they found the glacier facing the lake with a perpendicular front of from one hundred to two hundred feet in height, back of which the ice rapidly in- clined to a greater elevation, increasing to at least six hundred feet at a distance of only one hundred yards from its face. Farther up the valley it wound its way, receding from view in the dim perspective in milky, undulating folds. The frown- inof front of this magnificent mer de glace was awe-inspiring in its grandeur and dazzling in its beauty. The sun scintillat- ing and glistening on the crystal points, the strange freaks of color that the direct and reflected light made in playing among the blocks and protuberances adhering to the irregular front of this frozen Niagara since the last great segments of ice had fallen away and dropped like a glass mask at its feet, giving to some the appearance of green chalcedony and to others that of pure, transparent crystal, added to the enchanting spectacle. The glacier, which Lieutenant Greely has honored with the name of his wife, was two miles wide at its face. A moraine was formed at the margin of the lake — since called after the chief signal officer — about one hundred yards from the glacier's present face, and proves that in forcing the debris to that position it must at some time have extended that far. The most glorious spectacle was afforded, however, by the "calving" or breaking away of a portion of the ice. It was a sight which has been vouchsafed to but few. Dr. Hayes was so fortunate as to witness a similar process of nature at one of the Greenland fiords and has left a graphic description of the same. Our party have rhapsodied considerably over that which they now saw, and all agree that no idea of its beauty and sublimity can be conveyed. They were encamped within safe distance and had their attention attracted by the crack- ling noise which attended the disruption of the ice as the mass — so huge and immense in itself, but so small compared 1 ■ I 374 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. lifl ill:: f; to the great body of the ice stream — was detached. The noise as the ice in hundreds of thousands of tons came crush- ing down was immense. The tottering blocks and colunins of crystal were played upon by the sunlight, which turned them into masses of flashing silver as they trembled and a cataract of diamonds as they fell. Over the scene of dcmoii- tion there then arose a cloud of the icy particles which, ascend- ing, veiled the spot. The sun, playing through the sparklinir mist, gave to it the most beautilul tints of color, among which a pink, rosy hue predominated. Our commander, finding that the glacier completely occu- pied the valley and offered no chance for ascending to its upper surface — the perpendicular front was insurmountable— and also that no other opening to the westward presented itself now, determined to give up his project and return. He started to return with his party on May 3d. Retracing their steps over the river, they found it breaking up; in many places the ice which they had travelled over when outward- bound was broken away. The only episode of interest that occurred on the return journey was the circumstance ot Bender losing his companions for five hours in a fog. He had separated from the party to obtain a view from some ele- vated position, and, a dense fog settling down, he wandered astray. The party arrived at the home station on May 7th in excellent spirits. Their short journey appears to have intro- duced them into an Arctic paradise not far from our vicinity. It will almost do for the use of those visionary theorists who have accepted Symmes' eccentric, or rather concentric, con- ception of the polar regions. The farthest point reached by Lieutenant Greely was but sixty miles west and ten north of Discovery Harbor; but the tortuous route makes the distance travelled — so he thinks — 300 miles. In the last days of May Israel and a companion were at the "Bellows" doing some surveying, and killed three of a herd of musk-oxen. When brought in the carcasses proved very light and poor. It was apparendy too early in the season to allow the animals a chance to get in better condition. The scanty vegetation was not far enough advanced. The mean temperature for the month of May at Fort Con- ger was +17.41 ; maximum, +33.4; minimum, +1.1. Snow fell during 143 hours. The temperature rose above the freezing point for the first time on May 28th, after 271 succes- NEAR THE NORTH F'OLE. 375 sive days. Tlu-' new ice on the harbor was found to be still nearly four and a lialf fe it thick on June ist. At the time Major Greely made his journeys into the in- terior of Grinnell Land the relief ship Neptune was strug- fTlin^i- with an impassable barrier of ice in Kane Sea. Later in August Lieutenant Lockwood made two journeys in the launch — on the first to the head of Archer Fiord, brinL;Ing back large quantities of game, and on the second he entered Weyprecht Fiord, but was unable to advance far on account of the ice. Much disappointment was felt at the non-arrival of the expected relief ship, with, first, stores, and above all news from home, and many were the conjectures as to the cause of her failure to come ; but no discouragement was felt, and feeling a pardonable pride in their achievements of the past year they prepared to attempt even more in the next. The winter passed away more rapidly and pleasantly than would be supposed possible. There was plenty of read- ing matter. Major Greely and Dr. Pavy delivered occasional lectures, and holidays were celebrated as before. Another feature suggested by Major Greely did much to promote con- tentment and good feeling. Each man was allowed on his birthday to select the dinner, of which all partook — a privi- lefje which was greatly appreciated and never abused. Sergeant Rice's diary abounds in evidences of the attempt of the members of the Greely party to enliven each other's spirits during the long periods of desolation at Fort Conger. To iudee from his notes and suq^gestions Serjeant Rice was himself no small contributor to the general amusement. They had a paper, which they printed on the polygraph, called T/ie Arclic Moon, and some articles intended for it are found in the diary. Sergeant Rice also translated a French romance for the benefit of iiis comrades, their increasincj in- terest being evidenced by the decreasing length of the chap- ters and the great condensation of the latter part, so anxious were they to. reach the denouement quickly. Speeches and lectures appear to have formed part of their amusement. In one place Serrreant Rice has the following "sufjgestions for an humorous sketch: " "Suppose the photographing of a baby which has been given to a couple whose motto for years has been * hope.* Describe said baby a beautiful, innocent, dew-eyed darling — the preparation of the baby for the photographer's manipula- !lil4 I, * ii t 376 ARCTIC EXPIXJRATIONS. ' ^llt j^i^^iiii' tion. The baby is gorged by the mother as the Bedouin would a camel before starting on a desert journey, so that it would be quiet and content. Results in babe's indicrestion Then the attending troop of relatives. The photographer must await the arrival of some one who is said to chann tiu.' baby. Baby gets tired, but must be photographed sniiliiKr. He must vouchsafe a smile of benevolence, while in heart 1^0 desires to out-Herod Herod. " The next subject is the beauty — or the faded beauty who is, as are also her friends, dissatisfied with the photograph of her in the sere and yellow leaf. Or the young lady who resembles Mary Anderson or Adelaide Neilson. Or the itr. norant lady, who will not tolerate a shadow under her chin. Or the general with the battle-scar, which his patriotic wife worships. *• Suggestions from cartes de visite. The social equality of the arrangement of photographs in a shop window — Henry Ward Beecher cheek by jowl with Pat Rooney. " It is easy to recognize a photographer (unless he makes all his pictures by chance) by the manner in which the subject is posed and the arrangement of the light. A photographer has negatives in number equal to the population of a country- town. Quote the criticism on Walter North's garden scene. The sense of beauty and best momentary pose of the body is a gift which cannot be picked up as a mechanical art can be, Instance among difficult subjects, the fat woman — ' like heav- enly pastures, large and fair.' The trials of the jail-photog- rapher, the ' Bashful Sitter.' Custom House officers and dry plate. Speaking of troubles of photographing nature, writer might mention experience with a seal in the Arctic." The following is one of Sergeant Rice's efforts in the poet- ical line : i; ''!'!; OH, WHAT'S THE TEMPERATURE?" On the shores of an Arctic sea, On the banks of Grinnell Land, Where mortal man ne'er ought to be, There dwells a little band. This enterprising colony Came without being sent. Commanded by A. W. G., Who was on science bent. :douin that it estion. raphcr "111 ih(; milinfi. ;art he :auty — ,oi:;raph dy who the ig- er chin. )tic wife .lality of —Henry e makes 2 subject ^rapher country n scene, body is t can be, ke heav- photog- ers and nature, rctic. he poet- NEAK IHE NORTH POLE. With a shipload of thermometers, And kegs of lime-juice many, Anemometers, barometers, But of shoes they hadn't any. In their abode, 'mid ice and snow, They at each other stare, For wiiile hourly wagging signal flags They find they've nary a chair. But they have other luxuries That perhaps amount to much, Immense amphibious " morp.:idites," Velocipedes and such. And out into the frosty air Two dozen iron beds Have formed a most appropriate lair On which to place the sleds. Their Arctic home is fortified Against the Polar bear ; Barometers on every side And thermometers everywhere. Secure within this safe retreat Reposed A. W. G., And asked of one he chanced to meet, "What's the frigidity?" At every hour of all the day Observers then were sure Of having •' Horace" to them say, " Oh, what's the temperature?" And when, upon their hourly tramp. They'd chance to ope his door. He'd look up from his student lamp— "And what's the temperature?" At evening, when relieving came. Did he rest his weary head ? Oh, no, my friend ; it was the same— " What temperature ? " he said. If Roxy went but in the room To look upon the fire, A ghostly voice from out the gloom— " Is the temperature any higher? " When Israel midnight vigil kept. He'd hardly close the door Before a voice from a man who slept — " Is the temperature any lower? " 377 t) 11 i':. ! 378 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. At morning when thi; breakfast meals Were on ilie table spread A muffled tread through the doorway steals- " How cold is it ? " he said. 1 lit!/ !::' M?!- I, '.i! ?'k: t jmr H ;pri:: War zKt '^-■,?'"i ;l ' j ■ B|H '£'■•''] §mt ^^;^^ ■;: :.i A question's heard through all the months From the General, lank and lean — A hundred times if he's asked it once— •« What is the monthly mean ? " The months roll by, a year is gone, A voice comes through the door From a tall, slim man, with a red cap on— •' Will the m(!an be minus four?" The weary sledgers, tired and sore, Come by which island way. But hardly have they passed the door— •* How cold did ) ..u have it, pray?" Should any of tl.is noem tell, Should it fall in other hands, The poet sure will then catch h — 11 From the gentleman who commands. Latitude 81" 44' north, December, 1882. "THE TIDOMETER." G. W. IL One more extract, to close this somewhat pathetic inspection of the dead explorer's diary. It is headed : " Doggerel notice stuck up to have myself awakened as usual to take tidal readings," and is as follows: In the stall among thermometers, Barometers, hydrometers. Along with the geographer (Who is also the chrop.o^Tipher) There sleeps the old phutographer, WI10 wants some one to jog him, for When 10 : 40 by chronometer lie must go ar.d read tidometer. CHAPTER XXIV. PREPARING FOR RETREAT. Ciossing Orinnell Land — The Last Exploring Tripi- — Tlic Retreat — Leaving many Pro- visions ami tlie Dogs behind — Au/'nclcniii^ ihe Steain-Launch — A terrilic Gale — On the Ice Floe— (iaininf; L;inil at Esquimau I'oint — Rations louiul at Cape l-.al)ella antl Cape Sabine — Death staring in their Face — In Winter Quarters — The First Death — Scurvy the Cause. On February ist, 18S3, twenty-six days before the sun re- appt-arecl, a caclie of provisions was made at Cape Baird, and these were increased from time to time durin^r the month with a view to retreatin;^ southward in the fall should the relief vessel again fail to arrive, until the quantity reached about three hundred rations. Lieutenant Lockwood was early in the field. On March loth, accompanied by Brainard and Jewell, with two dog- trains driven by Jens and Frederick, he established a depot of supplies at Cape Summer. Returninijj to Fort Conger on the i8th, they rested until the 27th, and then, with the addition of Ellis, who, with Jewell, was to go only as far as Cape Britannia, once more took the field for the north coast of Greenland. At the end of six days they had reached the Black Horn Cliffs, where they were met by open water. They waited three days for the lead to close and made several journeys toward the interior with a view of tak- ing an inland route, but finding none practicable and the ice appearing firm they once more attempted to round the cliffs, when a southerly gale with the spring tide drifted the floes away from the land ice. Lieutenant Lockwood succeeded at once in effecting his escape, but the others, with dogs, sledge and provisions, remained several hours on the floe, until it struck the ice foot as it drifted northward, when they made a bridge of their sledge, and with much difficulty and danger reached the land, not a little disappointed at the result of a journey which had promised so well. They returned to Fort Conger, arriving on April 1 3th, and seeing to the northward at Repulse Harbor, on their way, a lane of water extending (379) ■♦ ; m Ii 1 1 It: t;. 1 'I' 380 ARCTIC KX PI .ORATIONS. across to Lincoln lia\ ami from five to six miles in width. During this trip important tidal observations wen; madr hy Jew(dl at Black Horn Cliffs, Repulse Harbor and Caj)c Suin m(,'r. Lieutenant Lockwood's next journey was to the westward in continuation of Major Cirecly's exploration in that direc tion durinLj the j)revious year. He was once more arconi- panietl by Brainanl and I'^squimau I*V(;derick. They lra\ i lied to the head of Ella Hay. Arthur i'iord, and to the twin Ljla- ciers, which cut off farther advance in that direction. A hircrc mountain seen here, some five thousand feet in heii^ht, was called Mount Difficult)-. Retracing their steps, they next followed the shores of Beatrix Bay, abandoning dieir laroc sled antl taking a smaller one lirought for light travelling, and pushed on until they reach(Kl the west coast of (irinndl Land and look(!d out on the Polar Ocean. On the manh ihey discovered an immense inland glacier which, from its resem- blance to the great wall of China, was called the Chinese Wall Glacier, afterward changed to Agassiz Glacier. This forms the ice cap of Southern Grinnell Land, being separated from the north(;rn ice cap by a belt of land about sixty miks in width. By a strange coincidence the farthest point west was reached on the same date as the highest northern latitude the previous year — namely, May 13th. Owing to the prev- alence of a severe snow storm, they rested three days at the mouth of Greely Fiord, in order to obtain observations for position, which was ascertained to be latitude 80° 48' 39' north, longitude 78° 26' west. On the evening of the 16th, the weather being perfectly clear, the party ascended to the top of a cliff some twenty-two hundred feet in height, to view the adjacent coast. The cliff was of fossil formation. Atone place the petrified roots of a tree were found intact. On the north side the land terminated in a high headland, fifty or sixty miles distant, which was called Cape Brainard. To the south, somewhat more distant, was Cape Lockwood. Beyond the latter another point was discerned with a telescope, sep- arated from Cape Lockwood by open water. This was sup- posed to be new land, and was called Arthur Land. On the same day they started back toward Fort Conger, but the re- cent fall of snow, which was quite soft and more than knee- deep, made travelling very difficult, and their progress was slow. To add to their trouble their provisions were running J'UTM'AKINC I'OR KKIRKAr, 38' short, .iiul thi'V were ronipcllctl to subsist on lialf rations. Th»; lii^t of tlu' (loi^ provisions had been fxhaiistcil, and at their second camp they killed one ol" liieir dogs to supply lood for the rest. After a most tryini; journey they reached GREEI.Y'S MARC:H SOUTHWARD. their base of supplies, from which they had been absent four- teen days, and arrived at Fort Con '5 15 •! ! 382 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. 'I u •'i -it ' ,■ till ' ml jml on April 230! and June 24th respectively. The first of these journeys occupied twelve and the second nineteen days, and many important discoveries were made. Conybear Bay was found to b(j a larnre fiord. Weypreclit Fiord and a numl)er of lakes were seen, the largest of which, about seventy miles long by fifty wide, was called Lake Hazen. This was fed by rivers and streams from the ice cap of Northern Grinncll Land, and discharged through Ruggles Rive*" into Weyprcclit Fiord, and, notwithstanding the early season in April, the river was open on the shores of Lake Hazen. Winter-quarters of Esquimaux were found and some relics showing that they had possessed dogs, sledges and iron. Two ranges of mountains running nearly parallel with the United States range were called respectively Conger and Garfield range, and a lofty peak, the highest in Grinneil Land, Mount Arthur. Of (r]a- ciers there weni many, the largest of which was called Hen- rietta Nesmith Glacier. Great hardships were endured on the second of these journeys, when the Major and Linn, leaving the supporting party, travelled with packs, which weighed on starting about eighty pounds, fording and swim- ming many streams and being otherwise subjected to much exposure, without, however, any eventual ill resulting there- from. In June Lieutenant Lockwood and Brainard made another journey to the interior of Grinneil Land, taking a north- westerly direction to within a short distance of the Unitec' States range and adding a number of glaciers and several rivers to those already known. They were absent six days (June 13th to 19th) and took provisions for that time in packs on their backs. This practically closed the operations for the year. The season of 1S83 was a very backward one, at least two weeks behind that of 1882, which was in turn a close season as compared with 1881, when the ice was re- markably open. It was early feared that a relief vessel might not reach thi- station, and preparations were made to abandon the post as soon as the state of the ice would permit. In anticipation of this, on April 5th. Rice, with ten men and a dog sledge, went to Thank God Harbor for the English ice-boat known to have been left there by Beaumont and returned with it in good condition on the 15th. It was a double boat, made specially for ice work and very light, weighing only about PREPARING FOR RETREAT. 383 seven hundred and fifty pounds, complete with its outfit. There was no break of importance in the ice until August 4th, when a southwest gale set in and continued several days, breakin<:if up the ice in the bay so that a start was deter- mined on. Tlie boats taken were the steam-launch Lady Greely, the whaleboat Narwhal, both built in the United States, the jolly boat Valorous, left at Cape Hawkes by the English and broucjht up in the Proteus in 1881, and the ice-boat Beau- mont. Two tons of coal and about eight months' supplies were left in a secure place, to be ready should a return be made necessary. A number of barrels of blubber, spoiled meat and bread were broken up to serve as food for the twenty-three dogs which were left in possession. The coal was part of some fifteen tons which had been mined and hauled from the vein in Water Course Bay. The records of the expedition, copies of all photographs widi four dozen selected negatives and the lighter instruments, including the pendulum, were taken. At two o'clock on the afternoon of August 9th, 1883, the party of twenty-five bade farewell to the place which had been to them for two years not only a home but a home fraught with so many pleasant recollections that they still speak of it as the paradise of the Arctic. The steam-launch, which Major Greely says was most efficient, towed the other three boats, the people and stores being divided among them. Three tons of coal and a quantity of provisions were stowed at Cape Baird, and that was therefore the first objective point. Passing to the southward of Bellot Island, the ordinary channel for vessels being still closed, they soon cleared the pack and entered a lead to Archer's Fiord, where they came near losing the launch in a nip. Arriving at Cape Baird on the morning of the loth, they took on the provisions and left at midday with fifty days' supplies. Passing around Cape Leiber they encountered a moving pack from the northward, and were compelled to run into Cape Crocrofft and tie up to the land ice. Here they took up forty- eight pounds of corned beef, left by Major Greely the previ- ous year, and, the tide having drifted the ice off shore, they ran on to Cape Bock and Carl Ritter Bay, finding compara- tively open water. The provisions left here by the Proteus in 1881, 200 rations, and those cached at Cape Cullinson by Nares in 'ill!! '■'V] ! » I ' :i.|J '"' .11: :■ ,. ! i^' ; ' ¥m. 384 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. 1875, 240 rations, were taken on board. The small stores in the Nares cache, such as tea, tobacco and sugar, were bad as well as a barrel of bread. About midway between Capes Leopold, Bon Bouche, and Lawrence they were frozen in for five days, when they forced tlieir way out, and after various detentions from the boats getting ashore, and several severe nips, which the launch stood well, the other boats beincr hauled up, they finally reached Cape Hawkes on August 26tli! They landed and left a record on the summit of Wasiiinoton Irving Island, and took on the small quantity of potatoes pickles and bread found in the English cache, except about three or four hundred pounds of the latter, which was too mouldy for use. At 4 p. m. the same day they started for Cape Sabine, having clear water until 10 p. m., when the wind off shore drove the pack out and compelled them to make fast during the night. Young ice several inches thick formed off the mouth of Allman Bay, the water being fresh there on account of the flow from John Evans glacier, so that they were unable to extricate the launch, but drifted slowly to the southward with the pack. The tide occasionally would open a la: o and they worked through it a short distance, only to be brought up again. For the season of the year the tempera- ture was unprecedentedly low, being generally below zero, and the party suffered mucu with cold. In order that they might not be missed by the expected relief vessel a tripod was erected on the ice and a flag hoisted at an elevation of thirty feet to attract attention. A northeast gale broke the floe, so that the position of the party was frequently changed, and they were finally driven to within about six miles of Cape Albert. As soon as the state of the ice permitted the stores from the different caches were collected at Camp Clay. These may be summed up as follows, viz. : Beebe cache and English cache, 240 rations each. In the latter considerable tea, sugar. chocolpte. bread and doe biscuit unfit for use. The rum and alcohol were missing. Garlington cache, 500 pounds of bread, ninety of pemmican, and a few cans each of roast mut- ton, peas, string beans, green corn, and two boxes of lemons. These last were in excellent condition and proved a rare treat in more respects than one. Major Greely speaks of them in the highest terms, and says that he would never again go to the Arctic without lemons, and the scraps of paper in whid\ PREPARING FOR RETREAT. 585 they were wrapped furnished the news of the day. The bomhartlment of Alexandria, the eruption of yEf a, and the election of reform governors in many of the States were all heard of through this means, and we were frequendy sur- prisefl after the Major came on hoard the Thetis, when tell- in about ^140,000. The oris^inal price asked by her owners was nearly $160,000. She was formally turned over to the United States on the 26th of February, and she sailed from Dundee on the morning of the 29th. On reachini; New York the Thetis was taken to the Navy Yard, where she was refitted for the expedition. The Alert, the last of the relief vessels to leave port, sailed on May loth. Her officers and crew were as follows: Lieu- tenant-Commander George W. Coffin, commanding; Lieu- tenant C T Badger, Lieutenant LL J. Hunt, Ensign C. S. McLlane, Ensign A. A. Ackerman, Chief-Engineer W. H. Naunian, Passed Assistant Surgeon, E. S. Nash ; able seamen, Frank Blokus, P. C. Hansen, Charles Baxter. William Bloom, M. C. Bot, Thomas Nilson, Thomas Watts, Thomas Beeswei- hemck, Charles Guyken, Armand Olsen, J. Luckscheintz, Charles Tristram, Alexander Watson, Herman Lara, H. Lupkerwitz ; fireman, J. Wachtc:r, John SulHvan, T. S. Roberts, William Hess; boatswain's mates, Joseph Doyle and Thomas Bragger; blacksmitii, A. H. Kemble; quartermasters, Philip Shantz, Salvator Torgada ; machinists, William J. Bowers and J. T. Green; captains of maintop, Albert Jones and Charles Anderson; carpenter's mate, Edward White; steward, Waldemar Wettergreen; cabin cook, Olaf Ander- son; ship's cook, Adam Weizel. The Alert, which was presented to the United States by England to be used in the expedition, was built of wood at the Pembroke dock-yard in 1856, and was originally a five- gun sloop of war. In 1874 she was thoroughly overhauled at the Portsmouth dockyard, and was fitted up specially for an Arctic exploring vessel. She took part in the English Arctic expedition, in 1875, ^^^ proved herself admirably fitted for such work. She was formally- turned over to Minister 1 in 394 ARCTIC EX PI, OK AT IONS. Lowell on March 25th. Tin: Alert is now rcj^ardt'd as one of the stronj^est vessels alloat. She reijisters 1,045 l"iis, ami is 1 79 feet loni; over all, and 160 feet at the water-line. [\^^.^ breadth of beam is 32^ feet, and when fully ecpiippi.cl she draws 15 feet. The Thetis arrived at Disko on May 2 2d, accompanied by the collit;r l.och (iarry, after a pleasant passaije of U\\ days and two hours from St. John's. On the Ih'st day out several lar<;e berijs were passed, but once clear of the coast no mote ice was seen until wr. mared the shores of Greenland. On the morniuLi" of May 18th the ship was comi)letely surrounded for several hours by loose, scattered fiekl-ice, on some pieces of which seals were seen. The west coast of GrcMiland was sii^hted on May 20th, in latitude 64" 30' north, lon^iuule 53° 20' west, and the part of Davis Straits throuj^h whicli wr. wimc then passini,'^ was found to be remarkably free from \vr, only an occasional berg being seen. Off Di.sko she met large pans of floating ice, varying in thickness from three to five leetaiid e.xtentling about three miles to seaward. Not without sonii: difficulty she worked Ium" way through these and madt; last with ice anchors to the fi.xed ice in the mouth of the harbor of IJevely. Here she learned that the past winter had been one of the most severe ever experienced. The Bear had arrived on May 15th, ten days and fifteen hours from St. John's. On the passage down she had taken a more westerly course than that pursued by the Thetis and encountered continuous fields of ice and large b(;rgs on the coast of Labrador and met winter ice off the Whale iMsh Island.s, which lie about twelve miles south-southwest from the entrance to Lievely Bay. Takincr a westerly course she forced her way through to the mouth of the harbor, where she Piadc fast to the ice. Two w^halcrs, the Triune and Cornwallis, had arrived, and shortly afterward the former attempted the passage to Upernavik, but failed on account of the ice. She returned antl both then sailed, "s their captains said, for the Southwest fisheries. On the 17th the Bear left for Upernavik and succeeded in getting as far as Hare Island, some seventy miles north of Disko, where she was stopped by an impassable barrier of winter ice, and on the 1 8th put back to Disko. In the meantime the Dundee whalers Polynia and Nova Zembla had arrived, and on the 2 1 St, the day before the arrival of the Thetis, they left for the north, followed closely on the same day by the Bear. Sh<; THE kKSCUE. 395 took witli lit-T as (Ion* drivir Hans I lavscn, wiu) atcoinpanieil N()pl Scotch whalers Triune, Polynia and Nova Zembla. iho Bear had arrived the previous evening, having first niu up to lierry Island, tv.enty-five miles north, to examine tlir siaic of the ice. Lieutenant Kmory reported that it was imj k1 Narwhal, ble, that the whalers C His. Ai assa- f le, tnat tne wnaiers L,ornwaiiis, Aurora ana iNarwhal, an Dundee, were there waiting for the ice to open. In tin; after- noon all the whalers, with the Thetis and Bear, left Uper- navik, the Loch Garry remaining behind to await the convoy of the Alert and a more favorable season for crossing Melville Bay. Governor Elborg, of Upernavik, accompanied the shins as far as Knigatock, a small setdemcnt twelve miles norih, where they tied up tc the ice, the Arctic close by the Triune, Polynia, Wolf and Nova Z<-mbla ; on the other side of the island th-j Cornwallis, Aurora and Narwhal in sight from the hill top. The whalers were much surprised to see the squailron so early in the field. The vessels of no other expedition, either of relief or exploration, had ever arrived there at so early a date, or even left England or the United .States before June 1st, the day on which this expedition left Knigatock and made a start across Melville Bay. PVom this time until the day of our arrival in the open water around Cape York the ships were continually battling with the ice or waiting for a chance to push on where it was found impenetrable. The entire fleet of eight whalers and the two (expeditionary vessels were together at the Duck Islands from June 6th to iitii. The Thetis and Bear had touched at Tessnisak, the northernmost of the Danish settle- ments, on the way up. W^hile waiting for the ice to open the men had fine shooting. Kider duck, dovekies and loons wore abundant. I^'rom this |)oint the vessels separated, the Thetis and Bear, widi the whahers Arctic and W'olf, being generally in company, the remainder running in groups of three or four together, with the PLsquimau.x and Jan Mayen, which after- ward came up. P'ach day, though eventful in itself, was but a repetition of the [)rec(.'ding. The ice varied in thickness from three to five feet, even more when rafted, and it was only by watching the leads carefully and taking advantage ot every favorable opening, that the ships made any progress at all. Commandeer Schley almost lived in the crows' nest. m THE RESCUE. 397 SoiiK^times wlien waiting they would tie up to the l(;e of a l3cr«^ IjLit more frequently to the Hoe, an.l, if tiie obstruction Avas" not absolutely impassable, resorted to ramminLj and torucc'.DCs to force a passage. On the 14th and 15th they made comparatively tine runs to the westward, passinsj^ throuL,di much open water and loose pack-ice. On the i 6th and 17th they were at a standstill all day within fifty miles and ill slight of Cape York, the ice beino- there impenetrable and, widi a fresh southerly wind, threatening a nij). Captain Fairwcather, of the Aurora, who has had much experience in. these waters, stated that he hac never before seen the land ice here extend so far off shore — about thirty-live miles. At CAPE YORK— MF.I.VnXE BAY. nine r. m. on the 17th the Thetis and Bear, with the whalers Aurora and Wolf, jrot under way, the ice havinj^ opened, and worked throuht incline to the left and the busy relief parties came in view. Passing a small fiic on which pots of milk were warming we came to the tent, under which lay four of the poor fellows. Two lay outside, one widi his face swollen so that hv. could barely show by his eyes the wild excitement that filled his being. The other was muttering in a voice that could scarcely be heard in the howling of the gale his hungry app(;al for food. Pushing aside the flaj)s of the tent we saw a sioht the like of which we trust never to see again. Crowded together in the little of the tent that was left stanching lay Greely and three of his men in their sleeping-bags, their faces black with dirt. Their hollow cheeks and their gleaming eyes made a J icture that we will never forget, and told a story that has but few rivals in the histories of miserable sufferings. The short glance revealed four men with the hand of death laid upon them ; one, indeed, was gasping his last feeble breath while food and stimulants were forced betvvt^en his teeth, The fate of the other three was a question of a very few hours. The gale was killing them in their weak and exhausted condition. To move against such a wind was an impossibility. An able-bodied, healthy man bent to it at times. So there they lay, waiting for death, unable to cook the pitiful ration of tanned oil sealskin and lichens that they called their meal.' The scene at the camp beggars description. It is sufficient to say that they were starving, and but for the timely relief afforded some of them would have died durino; the ni":ht. Connell had been given up as lost. The gale was killing them, and Major Greely says that he gave himself only about sixty more hours to live. Fredericks, Long and Brainard were the strongest of the party, and they were only able with great difficulty to walk down to the boat. It is a remarkable coincidence that Mr. J. W. Norman, the ice pilot of the Theti§, THE RESCUE. 401 who was mate of the Proteus in 1881, and the last person to say good-bye to Greely at 1 ady Franklin Bay, was also the first to greet him here, having accompanied Lieutenant Col- well in the Bear's steam-launch, and being the first to arrive at the camp he jumped ashore at once. Upon landing, with his pockets full of bread, he heard from Long the melancholy ;;ews that there were but seven left, and knowing that Greely was one of them, he ran up the hill to within hailing distance and called out, " You are all right, Greely ; there are two ships here for you." The major, recognizing the voice, replied : " Is that you, Norman? Cut the tent." The tent had blown down on them and they were too weak to set it up again. They had not eaten anything warm for more than two days, being unable to crawl out and build a fire. Our glance was a short one : work was to be done, and all turned to do it with heart and liands. The poor sufferers were wrapped in blankets, fed with warm milk, beef-tea and crackers, and carried to the boats. A photograph was taken of the camp despite the time, II P.M., and the weather. The living having been provided for, our next sad duty lay with the dead. The graces were on the summit of a ridge behind the camp — ten of them, with their scanty coverings of gravel. Each body was carefully unearthed and wrapped in blankets, marked to correspond with its number on the diagram that was made and carried to the boats. This task being finished and the bodies divided between the boats, the next difficulty was to reach the ship. It seems almost a miracle that they got safely alongside and could discharge their sad cargoes, with the survivors in charge of the sympathizing officers and crew, who removed their rags, bathed and fed them. Their dead comrades were piled on the dory and covered with a tarpaulin. We steamed back to Payer Harbor, and about 4 a. m. made fast to the ice again in about the same place we first had the information that led to the stirring events of the night. The next day the Bear revisited the camp and collected every scrap and relic appertaining to it. The cairns were revisited, and the records left by Greely, his pendulum, jour- nals, the flag of the Nares expedition that he proudly brings back from the place where they left it as marking their highest latitude, his instruments, and their records. Our work being completed, we turned homeward from the places {■ 1; 1 1 I! I ^^1, -i? -.^ ' '■■ J 402 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. made sad by so many former, and triply so by the recent disasters. They have closed the gates of Smith's Souiul for a time, but expeditions to come — and they are sure to come; — will learn more from the conduct of the party in commancl of Lieutenant Greely tiian they could ever know from iho combined experiences of the earliest to the latest explorers in tiiose remons. The ships then ran across to Littleton Island. The sound was still open, but two or three miles to the norduvard was seen drifting toward us an ominous line of ice which would probably have prevented our advance in that direction, at least for some time. We left Littleton Island on June 241I1, homeward bound, and stood down the coast, taking up cii route the records left for Commander Coffin, of the Alert, as we went north, and substituting for them others which told of die result of the expedition, and directed him to proceed to Disko. Just south of Cape Parry we met seven of the Dundee whalers working their way to the westward, and in- formed them of the result of our mission. This was the last that we saw of the whalers, and the occasion seems a fit one to say that during our intercourse with them we found the captains at all times courteous and obliging, and we gready enjoyed their jolly good company. We bade them God- speed, as they did us, and may they have a fine catch. Re- entering Melville Bay on Jjne 27th we found that the recent northerly winds had driven the pack to the southward, leav- ing an open lane of water, like a canal, through which, with only an occasional block, we readily passed. On the 30th, off the Devil's Thumb, we met the Alert and Loch Garry struggling manfully through a blind lead, having weakened the floe by torpedoes. The combined squadron then proceeded to the southward, and on the 2d of July the Thetis and Bear stopped at Upernavik to take on the coal left there by the Loch Garry, the other two ships going on to Disko. On the 5th the squadron was once more united at Disko, making preparations for the homeward voyage. The amputation of Elison's feet having become imperative on account of the sloughing of the old wounds, the operation was performed by the surgeons of the three ships. He had bee out of his mind several days previously, yet stood die operation, but, as was feared, had not sufficient strength to endure, and died three days after. On the 7th the remains THE RESCUE. 403 of Frederick Christiansen were interred in the jjraveyard at Godliavn — a detail of officers and men from tach of the ships, the Danish officials and the entire native population attending the obsequies. A brief service was held in the small church by the native priest; Mr. Andersen, the Danish Inspector of North Greenland, making a short address in Eni^lish. On the 8th we bade good-bye to the Danish offi- cials, who here, as well as at Upernavik and Tessinisak, have treated us with marked kindness and hospitality, and on the morning of the 9th the squadron sailed for St. John's. :ii!i;i , *' ' 'I 1, ■u\ '■ BJ. M , 'i t. i! |i CHAPTER XXVI. THE RESCUE CONTINUED. Official Reports of ihe Rescue of the Survivors of the Greely Party — Terrible SufTerincs— The Rescued Men frantic with joy — Narratives of Lieutenant Greely and Private Con nell — Devotion and Heroism of the Men — How Greely was Rescued, as narrated by p, Naval Officer. On the 17th day of July the Secretary of the Navy, Hon. William E. Chandler, received the following telegram : •'St. John's, N. P., 9 a. m., yu/y iy//i, 1884. "//on, JV. E. Chandler, Secretary of the Navy, Washington: "The Thetis, Bear and Loch Garry arrived here to-day from West Greenland. All are well. We separated from the Alert 150 miles north during a gale. At 9 p. m., June 2 2d. five miles off Cape Sabine, in Smith's Sound, the Thetis and Bear rescued alive Lieutenant A. W. Greely, Sergeant Brain- ard. Sergeant Fredericks, Sergeant Long, Hospital Steward Biederbeck, Private Connell, and Sergeant Elison, the only survivors of the Lady Franklin Bay expedition. Sergeant Elison had lost both hands and feet by frostbite, and died July 6th at Godhavn, three days after the amputation, which had become imperative. " Seventeen of the twenty-five persons composing this ex- pedition perished by starvation at the point where found. One was drowned while sealing to procure food. Twelvt bodies of the dead were rescued, and are now on board the Thetis and Bear. One, Esquimau Turnsvik, was buried at Disko, in accordance with the desire of the Inspector of West- ern Greenland. Five bodies buried in the ice fort near the camp were swept away to sea by winds and currents before my arrival, and could not be recovered. The names of the dead which were recovered, with the date of death, are as follows: Sergeant Cross, January ist, 1884; Wederick, Esqui- mau, April 5th ; Sergeant Linn, April 6th ; Lieutenant Lock- (404) THE RESCUE. 405 wood, April 9th ; Sergeant Jewell, April 1 2th ; Private Ellis, May 19th; Sergeant Ralston, May 23d; Private Whistler, May 24th; Sergeant Israel. May 27th; Lieutenant Kisling- bury, June ist; Private Henry, June 6th; Private Schneider, June 18th. Names of dead buried in the ice fort, with date of death, where bodies were not recovered, as follows : Ser- o-eant Rice, April 9th, 1884; Corporal Salem, June 3d; Pri- vate Bender, June i6th; Acting Assistant Sergeant Pavy, June 6th; Sergeant Gardner, June 12th. Drowned while breaking through the newly-formed ice while sealing, Jens Edwards, Esquimau, April 24th. "I would urgently suggest that the bodies now on board be placed in metallic cases here for safer and better trans- portation in a seaway. This appears to me imperative. Greely abandoned Fort Conger, August 9th, 1883, and reached Baird Inlet September 29th, following, with the entire party well. He abandoned all his boats and was adrift for thirty days on an ice-floe in Smith's Sound. His perma- nent camp was established October 21st, 1883, at the point where he was found. During nine months his party had to live upon a scant allowance of food, brought from Fort Con- ger, that cached at Payer Harbor and Cape Isabella by Sir George Nares in 1S75, but found much damaged by lapse of time; that cached by Beebe at Cape Sabine in 1882, and a small amount saved from the wreck of the Proteus in 1883, and landed by Lieutenants Garlington and Colwell on the beach where Greely's party was found camped. When these provisions were consumed the party was forced to live upon boiled sealskin strips from their sealskin clothing, lichens and shrimps procured in good weather, when they were strong enough to make exertion. As 1,300 shrimps were required to fill a gallon measure the labor was too exhausting to depend upon them to sustain life entirely. The channel be- tween Cape Sabine and Littleton Island did not close, on ac- count of the violent gales all winter, so that 240 rations at the latter point could not be reached. All of Greely's rec- ords and all instruments brought by him from Fort Conger are recovered and are on board. "The Greely party are very much improved since their rescue, but were critical in the extreme when found, and for several days after. Forty-eight hours' delay in reaching them would have been fatal to all now living. (! I 'liii 1^. j »f ii p i 1 1 ■r'j: (-. Iiri-i W'H '.^ I 406 ARCriC EXPLORATIONS. "Smith's Sound was not open when I left Cape Sabine. The winter about Melville Bay was the most severe lor twenty years. "Tiiis jrreat result is entirely due to the unwearied cncr>nr of yourself and the Secretary of War in fitting out this cxpe- dition for the work it has had the honor to accomplish. " W. S. Schley, Commander." On the same day Lieutenant Greely sent the followIrK^ despatch to the Chief Signal Officer, General Hazen : "St. John's, N. F.. 7?ify 17M. "For the first time in three centuries England yields to America the honor of having penetrated farthest north. Lieutenant Lock wood and Sergeant Brainard, May 13th, reached Lock wood Island, latitude 83.24, longitude 44.05. They saw from 2,000 feet elevation no land north or nortii- west, but to nortiieast Greenland, Cape Robert Lincoln, lati- tude 83.35, longitude 38. Lieutenant Lockwood was turned back in 1883 by open water on north Greenland shore, the party barely escaping drifting into the Polar Ocean. Dr. Pavy in 1882, following the Markham route, was adrift one day in the Polar Ocean north of Cape Joseph Henry and escaped to land, abandoning nearly everything. In 1882 I made a spring, and later on a summer trip into the interior of Grinnell Land, discovering Lake Hazen, some 60 by 10 miles in extent, which, fed by the ice-cap of north Grinnell Land, drains Ruggles River and Weyprecht Fiord into Cony- beare Bay and Archer Fiord. From the summit of Mount Arthur, 5,000 feet, the contour of land west of the Conijjer Mountains convinced me that Grinnell Land tended directly south from Lieutenant Aldrich's farthest in 1876. In 1883 Lieutenant Lockwood and Sergeant Brainard succeeded in crossing Grinnell Land and, ninety miles from Beatri.\ Bay, the head of Archer's Fiord, struck the head of a fiord from the western sea, temporarily named by Lockwood the Greely Fiord. From the centre of the fiord, in latitude 80 deg. 30 min., longitude 78 deg. 30 min.. Lieutenant Lockwood saw the northern shore termination some twenty miles west, the southern shore extending some fifty miles, with Cape Lock- wood some seventy miles distant, apparently a separate land from Grinnell Land. I have named the new land Arthur THE KLSCUE. 407 Land. Lieutenant Lockwood followed, .i^oin^r and returning on an ice-cap avera<;ing about 150 feet perpendicular face. It follows that the Grinnell Land interior is ice-capped with a belt of country some sixty miles wide between the northern anil southern ice caps. "Ill March, 1884, Sergeant Long, while hunting, looked from the northwest side of Mount Carey to Hayes' Sound, sccinLj on the northern coast three capes westward of the farthest seen by Nares in 1876. The sound extends some twenty miles farther west than shown by the English chart, but is possibly shut in by land which showed up across the western end. The two years' station duties, observations, ail explorations and the retreat to Cape Sabine were accom- plished without loss of life, disease, serious accident or even severe frost-bites. No scurvy was experienced at Conger, and but one death from it occurred last winter. "Greely, Commanding." Another telegram sent by Lieutenant Greely to General Hazen on the same day reads as follows: " Brainard, Bietlerbeck, Connell, Fredericks, Long, myself, sole survivors, arrived here to-day, having been rescued at the point of death from starvation by relief-ships Thetis and Bear June 22d, at Camp Clay, northwest of Cape Sabine. All are now in good httalth, but weak. I abandoned P^ort Conger August 9th, and was frozen in the pack off Victoria Head August 29tii ; abandoned steam-launch September 1 ith, eleven miles northeast of Cocked Hat Island. When on the point of landing, we were three times driven southwest by storms into Kane's Sea. Finally arrived September 29th in Baird Inlet. Learning by scouting parties of the Proteus disaster, and tliat no provisions had been left for us from Cape Isabella to Sabine, I moved, and established winter-quarters at Camp Clay, halfway between Sabine and Cocked Hat. Inventory showed that by daily ration, four and one-third ounces meat, seven of bread and dog biscuits, and four ounces of miscellaneous, the party would have ten clays' full rations left for crossing Smith Sound to Littleton Island up to March 1st. "Unfortunately Smith Sound remained open the entire winter, rendering crossing impossible. Game failed, despite daily hunting from early February. Before the sun returned Hi; !i'.ir ) '" '■' n ' mi^ ii i \> il: : H 408 ARCriC EXI'LOKAIIONS. only 500 pounds of meat could bo obtained. I)uriii<> this yc-ar minute shrimps, seaweed, sassafras, rock lichens, and seal-sUin were resorted to for food, with results as shown Ijv the number of survivors. The last re«;ular food was issm il May 14th. Only 150 pounds of meat having been left by Garlington, comi^elled me to send in November four men tn obtain 144 pounds of I'jiglish meat at Isabella. Duriivrihc trip Klison froze solid both hands and feet, and lost them, sur- viving-, however, tiirough our tcrribh; winter and spring, until July 8th. The survivors owe their lives to the indomitable energy of Captain Schley and Lieutenant Emory, who, pre- ceded by three and accompanied by five whalers, forced tin ir vessels from Upernavik, through Melville Bay, into North Water at Cape York with the foremost whaler. They trained a yard wherever possible and always held it. Smith's Sound was crossed and the party rescued during one of the most violent gales I have ever known, the boats being handled only at the imminent risk of swamping. Four of us were then unable to walk, and could not have survived exceeding twenty-four hours. Every care and attention was p- n us. We have .saved and bring back copies of meteorolog 'dal, astronomical, magnetic, pendulum, and other observations; also pendulum, Yale and standard thermometers, forty-eiuht photographic negatives, a collection of blanks and photo- graphic proofs, Esquimau relics and other things necessarily abandoned. The Thetis will remain here for five days prob- ably." Commander Schu^y, in a conversation with the writer, thus described the findinr and rescuing of the Greely party: "On the 22d of J'jne, while lying in the drift ice off Cape Sabine, in Smith's So:ind, latitude 78" 45' north, longitude 77" 30' west, and which forms part of Ellesmere Land, we sighted signals of distress at a distance of about seven miles. It was about 9 o'clock p. m., and the sun shining brightly, but bitterly cold. "After considerable trouble we steamed down towards the pack-ice upon which they were, and a horrible sight met our eyes. Lieutenant Greely, Brainard, Fredericks, Long, Beid- erback, and Connell were crying like children and hug^ini^ each other frantically. They seemed frantic with joy. I put off in a cutter, and after great difficulty reached them. The\ flew at me, and I at first imagined they were crazy. The)' I'iiv^^ this i^'iis, and liown Ijy IS issuid 1 left 1)\ r men [u iiriiiL,r ill,. lu'm.siir- ■in^-. until loiiiitablf who, jirc- 'ctxl ihcir to North cy _t^ain(xl I's Sound the most r liandlcd us were exceeding -' '"% WmlM, ' ■ '"'■■ Rij!.<( Ft i 410 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS seized each of the men in the boat, hugged them, kissed their hands, and did everything one could imagine to show their joy and gratitude. All but poor Elison. His feet and hands were so badly frozen that he could not move. He lay still on the ground and moaned. The others of the party, also, were more or less frost bitten, but they seemed to forget their sufferings. " The party on the ice looked as if they could not live five hours, they looked so feebK^ notwithstanding the almost superhuman str ngth they had shown when we reached them. Slowly, one by one, seventeen of the party had yielded up their lives to the demon starvation. One of them, the strong- est, had gone seal-hunting. He never returned. He was drowned while trying to get to a seal before it reached the edge of a floe upon which they were. He missed his footinc^, fell into a seam in the ice and was seen no more. "We encountered a gale day before yesterday which was so furious that the Alert separated from us in it. Greely, in his report to me, said that on August Qtli, 1883, he abandoned Fort Conger. They travelled northerly, and, ai'ter consider- able privation and suffering from the cold, reached Baird Inlet on September 29th. I'here was no one in the party who was not in full possession of health, and, e.xcepting their isolated position, every tiling was well." During the trip from the Arctic region to St. John's Lieu- tenant Greely gave a detailed description at the mess-table of the Thetis of the hardships nis party encountered during the long winter in camp on Cape Sabine. The following is the substance of his story: " When the site for the camp had been selected we set at once to building a house to shelter us from the severities of the winter. Stones were gathered together and piled in walls to enclose a space of about 25 by 17 feet. Over the top of this was placed the whaleboat found at Starknecht Island, left by the Neptune in 1S82. This formed a ridge-pole, and the rest of the roof was made by stretching tent and boat-sails down to the sides of the house and pinning them down with rocks. Snow was heaped up to the eaves, which were about five feet high, to keep out the wind. In this miserable hut we laid down from the ist of November until the latter part of May. From the inside the walls were barely high enough to allow the men to sit up in their sleeping-bags. All during THE RESCUE. 411 our retreat from Fort Conger fuel had been a very precious article. Every thin: ,1 412 ARCTIC EXI'LORATIONS. 1 ! \'4i n\ iMIl 4 I'l I t; Thursdays. On Sundays the ration was increased a little. At Conger I had been in the habit of lettincr each man choose his bill of fare when his birthday came, and I tried to keep it up during our reduced days at Camp Clay. Any litde tliver- gencc that would break the monotony was of great value. Days to come would be anticipated, while reference to those past would occupy us when there were none ahead to look for. A favorite amusement was to make out a bill of fare of what we would like when relief came. The tastes of the men were astonishingly varied, and when we look at them now seem almost ludicrous. I tried to call off their attention from a contemplation of the frightful situation in which we were placed. A series of lectures was begun, and other intellectual amusements, all of which had a highly beneficial effect on the llagging spirits of the party. Two hours a day could be filled in by lecturing on various subjects of personal interest, in- eluding the United States, their products, etc. Each State would furnish the data, and when the lecture was over a general discussion would be entered into by all hands, each one expressing his views. Mr. Rice, the photographer, would devote another hour each day, either in telling stories, of which he had a large supply, or else would draw from his f.tock o( general information, of which he had a great deal. Dr. Pavy would give very instructive and carefully thought- up lectures on history, despite the wretched condition of his audience. Six days of the week were occupied in this manner. On Saturday the subject would be moving incidents by flood and field, in which each person would speak in turn. In this manner the personal experiences of those who went on the various sledging and exploring parties became familiar to all, and enables us now to speak most intelligently of all the work we have accomplished. The seventh day we rested quietly, each one with his own tlioucrhts. "The most trying position of any individual member of the party was that occupied by Sergeant Brainard. Placed in a similar position, not one man in a tliousand would have been as faithful to the tempting responsibilities that were allotted him as he was while issuing rations to the party. He found himself, day after day, exposed to the temptation of partaking of more than his share of the rapidly decreasing supplies, but he acted with heroic fidelity, and never in one instance 4.bused the confidence reposed in him by his comrades. In- THE RESCUE. 413 deed, he must have used less food than the allotted amount, as the supplies under his care turned out on the approach ol spring fully two per cent, more than the most sanguine of the party had dared to anticipate. In this way the dreary weeks and months dragged slowly and hopelessly along, with -. out leaving a ray of hope to light up the souls of that doomed company of victims to the cause of science." On June 3d the party reached the highest northern latitude by four miles in latitude 83° 24' 5". Private Connell, who soon recovered from his sickness, has aiven the following narrative of the sufferings and hardships experienced by the Greely colonists during their stay in the polar regions : "After the quarters had been completed a party of five pro- ceeded northward in a whale-boat and established a cache of provisions on the west coast of Robeson Channel, to be used the next spring by exploring parties. This party succeeded in placing a cache at or near Cape Beechey, but on account of the closing in of the ice on the western shore they had to leave their boat until next year and proceed overland to Fort Conger. They were for fifteen couLCCutive hours at the oars, and had many narrow escapes from being crushed by the heavy ice drifting south in Robeson Channel. In November of the same year Lieutenant Lockwood, with a party of eight men, undertook to cross Robeson Channel to the Polaris' winter-quarters of 1871, but on account of the darkness and of the ice being still in motion, the party had to return to the station. This was the last party that went in the field of ex- ploration in the year 1 88 1 . The party then settled down in their dreary home until the return of the sun, which disap- peared below the horizon on October i6th, and did not return again until March ist. The monotony of the dark winter was relieved by lectures by the officers of the expedition and other amusements gotten up by the men. In the spring of 1882 the whole party were reported in good health by the surgeon, and preparations were made for explorations to the north and northwest. Lieutenant Lockwood, Sergeants Brainard and Jewell, and one native, with a dog-sledge, on the first day of March, crossed Robeson Channel to Hall's Rest, from there to Newman's Bay and back again to Fort Conger, where they arrived on the loth. This party travelled while the tempera- ture was 58° Fahr. below zero, and were storm-bound for i;/i i; 'ii; \M' ills: °| : 'If lili;i!r 4-4 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. three days in Newman's Bay. Another party, under cliarae of Sergeant Brainard, started on March 12th to place a boat and small depot of provisions near Cape Summer on the south side of Newman's Bay. This party had a very cold temperature during the night of the 12th, the index-pen goincr into the bulb of the thermometer, the thermometer graduatin^^ to 61° below zCiO. They returned to the station on the evening of the 20th, none the worse after their cold expe- rience. On March 19th Dr. Pavy and Sergeant Rice, with Esquimaux and a dog-sledge, started north to try and find out if any land could be discovered north of Cape Joseph Henry. They met with open water, and, drifting on tlie ice- floe for two days north of Cape Hecla, losing all their camp- equipage on the floe and barely escaping with their lives, they returned to Fort Conger, arriving there on May ist. The next party, under the command of Lieutenant Lockwood, to explore the nortl; coast of Greenland, started on April 3d, a supporting party going as far as Cape Bryant, when Lieuten- ant Lockwood, with Sergeant Brainard and one Esquimau and dog-sledge, proceeded north, reaching Jackwood Island on May I ith, latitude 83° 24'. " They named Cape Robert Lincoln, in 85° north, planting the stars and stripes nearer the north pole than any other flag afloat. The third party, under Lieutenant Greely, started westward on May 25th, and made important discoveries in that direction, discovering .1 fiord leading into the Conybeare Bay. Leading from the northwest into this fiord a beautifu' river discharges, its mouth about two miles wide. Its length is about twenty miles, and it was open at its head when the party arrived there on the last day of April. The oudet of this is now a beautiful lake, surrounded on the north and west side by a range of mountains, where a number of glaciers were cropping through and discharging into the lake. Sev- eral musk oxen, wolves, hares and ptarmigans were seen in the vicinity of tiiis lake, and the party claims that without a doubt the musk ox winters in or about the vicinity of the lake, and does not migrate, as some Arctic authorities claim. Lieutenant Greely's party returned to the station on May loth. This finished the important sledging parties for the spring. Lieutenant Lockwood returning on June 1st, about which time the ice commenced to break up. Lieutenant Greely, however, made another journey, with a cart and THE RESCUE. 415 packs, in June, extending his previous explorations farther to the westward. The ice in Kennedy's Channel broke up early in July, and the channel was entirely clear of ice in the first davs of August. Lieutenant Greely went in the launch to Cape Cracroft on August 12th, and could see no ice to the southward as far as could be seen by a powerful telescope from an elevation of about 400 feet. The party could not understand why a ship did not reach them, the season being such an open one to the north. They were disappointed but not discouraged. During the summer and fall a great quantity of musk ox meat was procured, which lasted tliroughout the winter, giving a fresh meat diet three times a week. "We settled down to our second winter in the Arctic regions, and carried out about the same general routine that had been observed during the preceding winter. Every one was very cheerful with the coming ot spring again. The health of the party was reported good by the surgeon. There were caches laid out at Cape Baird early in February, 1883, to be used in case of a retreat southward. In the first days of March Lieutenant Lockwood, Sergeant Brainard and Ser- geant Jewell made a preliminary trip to Newman's Bay before starting to extend their previous discoveries along the Green- land coast, and returned to the station after an absence of five or six days. In the latter part of March Lieutenant Lock- wood, with two sledges, started on the trip for which he made the preliminary one, but on account of meeting a large ex- tent of open water to the north of Repulse Harbor, extending across to Lincoln Bay on the Grinnell side and northward as far as he could see, he had to return to the station. In the meantime a party left the station for Polaris Harbor, and brought across an English 20-foot iceboat, which had been left there by Lieutenant Beaumont, of the Nares expedition of 1875 and 1876. On April 25th Lieutenant Lockwood and Sergeant Brainard, with one native and a dog sledge, started westward to extend Lieutenant Greely's explorations, and dis- covered on May 1 3th an arm of the Western Ocean in the shape of a large fiord ; also a large glacier extending across the face of Grinnell Land, north and south, which they com- pared to the Chinese wall. This glacier is probably the largest that has ever been discovered excepting the Hum- boldt. Its face is much longer and higher than the Hum- i I ■i! f i > Ml w ' i 1 1 ■ " V li^^';^:- R'^M ^'i; « ^i ^ 1 ■? i 1 . !i ) ; k i 1 410 AUll l( I'.Xn.OKAIIONS. boldl, however, ami .1 most rcmarkal)!*' fcaliin! of il was its lailUliil r(*s(«iul)iaiu< to llu> surraet' of (lie cartl), <'xliH)iiin;; lii|| aiul valley. It was praetieally ;«ii ice cap, thront;h whi« h only the hij^hesl peaks projeeted. The name ol this j^laeier was ^all)se(plelltly thani;eii to ,\i;assi/ ( il.uier. They heiii;; already on short rations, were loinpelleil to return to I'orl C"on"(i This lioiil. whieh is an arm ol the Western ( )eean, they cx- plor<>il lor a tlistanee ol twenty miles. Ascemlin^ an < l( va lion t)l about .1 thous.uul leel. where they eouKl see the litinl lamls t( 1 nunatiuL; this lioul, the Western ( )cean eouKI he •(•en several miles hevoml, prt)vin!:; ( onelusively that drinnell l.mul is an islanil. The parly relurneil to the station ahoiM May 2'j{\\. laeutenant l.odswooil and Ser«4<'.»nt Hrainanl made another trip tt)waiil ihe I'niled Stales Mountains, ^\\\r norili tVom the st.uion. and found that the north of the mount, liiis was entireK iee. rapped with sexeral ijlaeiers tliseluui'iin' throuLjh the v^aps .ind valleys ol the mountauis. " NoiiuniLj further w.is ilone this sununer in lh(* line of ex pK>raiit>n. No ships arriviuj^ by AuL;ust 9th tlu; parly ah.iiuloiu'd the st.ition and relrealeil southward in three boats, in tow o\ the steam lauiu h. Hy laUiuj; atlvanla^c ol westerly wimls aiul llu' stale ol the iee leads opi.'nin^ alonu the shor(\ tlu^y reaeheil Cap<^ I lawkes by Auoust 26lh, pickinu \)p a cache o\ provisions there. X'iewinj^ from W^ashin^lon Irvins.; Island open water as l.ir as Cape Sabiiie. Lieuleiiaiu (ireely conchuUxl to keep on with the launch a!ul boats lo Ca|)e Sabine ; but belori* reachiui^ there, the. ice closini^ in aiul the liMnpiMalure that nii;ht j^oinj.;' below zero, the boats were hauK'd tm the lloe, where further ilevelopmenls of tiu- ice were awaited. W^e ilrifteil with tlu; whole pack, the ocmi- eral drill bein^ st)uth toward Cape Sabine. On Septenihcr 9th the launch and two boats were abandoned, the i)arly with sledv^e. iceboat and rations making over the ice toward Capi; Sabine, it w-as necessarv for ihe parly to travel five miles lo make onv mile oood. When within about six miles of Cocktxi Hat Island a southwesterly L^ah^ sprani^ up and tirove llicni back into Kane's Sea attain. I'hree or four days after wo made another attempt to reach the shore with boat and sledge, this time octtino- within two miles of the shore, but a northerly i^ale drove the ice southwanl past Cape Sabine. This gale lasted four days. The lloe on which the party were drilled as tar south as Baird Inlet, where they crot off the ice. On 'I I IK KKSCUI', 4'7 S('()l(inl>rr 20II1 prf'pnr.ilIoMs wcrr made for vvitilcrini' niuii SI I ith iii'i'' ;r; llx" cnndilinn ol tlir \(c vvoiild permit a pa-.sa^ff lo LillisioM Island. In die mranliinc S'li-caiil Ki acio; ( <■ wiis sciil li> ( a|>f Sahiiw (o scf il any n-jord or rations vvrn; ll„.|-,.. I )i',( ovciin;- tlic little that had l>een lell then: liy tin* |V(»|( hs and NepliMie. it was then decided dial the wholf! v(' to (ape S.d)ineand winter in that vicinity, hut. ( 'olle( lii).. ;dl rations and (lothiii!' tlur i);iil\ hoiild move ,.|r( Mil", a snow nail) w re moved in liy N<»venil»er 1 :,t, ( )n November i:t SdiM ant i\iee with three men went, lo Cape Isahella with a sm;ill sled;;<' to hrini; 150 ponnds of < ann'd meal left liy Sir /Mian Yonnj;, ol the I'andora, aftervvaid tin- jeannetle, in "All'M" leavini; (_"ap<' Isabella on the reJinii trip ('orpo.al I'Jison LM)i his feel and hamls hadly Iro/.en, and, hein;^ entirely (•\liaiist<-(l, the ahandomnent o| the meat was necessary in (irdcr that he should he hauled on the sledi^e toward the (aii1|). SerL'cant Rice (am<- on ahead to :i u ni,,|,t- of it. Mere words are inadc-quate to describe these; ciucr- tainiiKMits, and perhaps liie terse style which an I'jiwlj^|j ac(|uaintanc(.' of mine adopted in relatini^" his experiences on board a Russian frii^ate will '^\vc the best idea ot them. H,. would say, as if inliMidini^ to spin you a lont^ yarn, 'i.ctinc tell you about my visit to the Russian llai;ship. I went on board and they j^ave me a drinU which thc;y called "cadet punch," and llu;y 'oisted me over the side with a thini^ they called a w'ip.' "Our fare on board the ships of the relief squadron was excellent. Wt; were provided with (.'verything possihh; in the way of food, and forward and aft alike lived like fiL;htiii"- cocks. "I'lu! jjuncli was made of nun wliich had been left in ;> cache on LittU.'ton Ishuul by Mr. \V. 11. Beebc, jr., who com- mandetl the (}reely relief (.'X|)etlition of 1882, and was most cxc<;llent, and the more welcome, as although lavish in th • supply of s^ootl thiny^s to eat, no drinkables were allowed us by tile Hoard which supervised the littini^ out of the e.\])edi- tion. except such as was in the hands of the surL^con for medicinal pur|)oses only. y\t Disko, Ui)ernavik and Tcssin- sak tlu; Danish officijils tre.; :d us with marked courtesv and did everything- in their power to forward the object of the expedition. At Godhavn, Disko Island, the capital of North Greenland, a villai^e of about one hundred inhabitants, the men were oiven a run on shore and had a dance with the Esquimau belles. And they can dance, not even our own American twirls, who are '.generally conceded to excell all others in the Terp'iichorean art, beatinq- them, though it must be admitted that the sealskin knee-breeches and boots worn by the latter are better ada|)ted to ease and grace of move- ment than the cumbersome skirts affected by their more civilized sisters. "One of the features of the expedition was getting the Loch Garry to Upernavik so early in the season as May 29th. She was the first iron vessel that haci ever visited that port, and when she sailed from St. John's the prediction was gen- TIIK liESCUK. 423 And in arriving cral that 'that iron l)ox would n('V( r return,' so far west as the Devil's riuiinb, under the convoy of the Alert., where they were met by the 'I'hetis ami I'xar on their return trip, June 30th. both vessels aeconii)lished all that was expected ot" them. 'Iliis was a pl< asant reunion. A lon^ coiuins^' on soon after we nu:t theni, the four vessels made fast to the ice, and visits were freely interchanged across the 1 1 ./= ?^ ESQUIMAU AND KAIYAK. floe ^nd concrratulations received upon the result of the ex- pecllilon. It presented a very animated scene as the ships steamed up to the ice, three or four men hanq-ini:' under the bow until the prows struck the ice, when they immediately dropped down. An ice anchor, ice auqer and hawser were dropped over to them and in the twinkling of an eye wc were fast. So much for the Greely relief expedition of 1884 We Mlif A I' I, ;«' '. '. ^l ■''i j, I 'ilij!: '.< •' ■» 424 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. have been most handsomely received and commended for what it was ma'le possible to accomplish by the spUndid manner in which the ships were fitted out under the direciion of the Honorable Secretary of the Navy, and, with a secret satisfaction in having been instrumental in the work of re- lieving- Greely's starving party, we have no favors to ask, no complaints to make ; and while we would gladly, under simi- lar circuiiistances and the same leadership, undertake another trip to the Arctic, none are ambitious to attempt an original exploration in that quarter, and all are willing to postpone the organization of the next naval Arctic expedition until the time proposed by Secretary Chandler in his reply to an ad- dress delivered by the latter at the meeting of welcome in Portsmouth, N. H., in which he advocated further advances toward the North Pole. if ! i ? r Ik 11 CHAPTER XXVII. A HORKIHLK DISCOVERY. Cannibalism in its Worst Form — Private Henry Shot from Ikhind and his Flesh Eaten— Lieutenant Greely on the Cause of the Execution — Henry Accused of havinj; Stolen Rations — Sergeant Elison on ids Death-bed declares the Shooting of Henry Unjustifiable — \Vl\o is to Wame for the Sufferings of (lieely's Men ? — The Relief Squadron Arrives at Portsmouth Harbor— Naval Welcomes for the Thetis. Hear, and Alert — Reception in the Town— Reunions of the Survivors and their Relatives— Mrs. Greely Arrives — A Thrill- ing Reunion. When the vessels of the Greely relief expedition reached St. John's, the world was told that only six members of the Greely colony were living. One had been drowned, one had died on the way home, and seventeen, it was said, had perished by starvation. This was a shocking story, but soon a much more terrible one was to be told. When their food gave out the unfortunate members of the colony, starving in theT tent on the bleak shore of Smith's Sound, were led by horrible necessity to become cannibals ! The complete history of their experience during that terrible winter has afterwards been told by one or the other of the survivors, and makes one of the most dreadful and repulsive chapters of the annals of Arctic exploration. Greely and his surviving companions were forced to choose between death and this way of pre- serving life, and they have chosen the latter. From July, 1882, to August, 1883, not less than 50,000 rations were taken in the steamers Neptune, Yantic, and Proteus up to or be- yond Littleton Island, and of tiiat number only about 1,000 were left in that vicinity, the remainder being returned to the United States or sunk with the Proteus. Two costly expe- ditions had taken those provisions to Smith's Sound, but Greely and his men gained practically no benefit from them. Greely's instructions and the plain teachings of common sense were disregarcied. He foresaw that he might be com- pelled to retreat down the west shore of Smith's Sound; he could establish provision depots along the upper part of the (425) II l^^^^^^^l IJI; 'mH^^^rIH Hi' ' i * ! 1 '1" ' iii"' i' "I ABVIfV^^^^KI ^1 i i ntt^^^m M ■ '^1' JnBIIHHm in ^ rP''' i m|p. . k, IBI^I^^HIf In ^ iHIHl , i ■:•;,. i i IMK i u 1 DIH ;|I jimi 'm' \ ''' sK wb^^^^hIHw ll 1 ■'.(>'. I H ^^Ri i '1 ll hI! i ' '' Wm ^^HhIi 1 nil 1 Ih msmi ■ it * '. f J' ' :):i')! ' 'iHSIS^^^Hfl ll ■Hhm^^^^^IhS 1 i 1 1^ hIRI^BHv^m '111 l^^u^^^HBiHI m f' ll i^^H K^^R^H ^^K I^^^^^H^B iH TnHH^I I^^Mh^^^IH mi i'l 426 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. line, but those below must be established by the relief parties. In his instructions he pointed out the spots on the west side. where food should be placed, and then directed that a colony should be established on the other shore. He even foresaw that he might reach Cape Sabine and then be unable to <>,;[ across ; therefore, he directed tiiat the relief colony should not only strive to find him by telescope but should also s nj sledge parties f^ the west side, to rescue him. His insuuc- tions were not heeded, and the terrible sufferinqrs, the death, and the cannibalism of (freely and his men resulted from this nc<:!^lect. It will be remembered that in Commander Schley's first despatch to Secretary Chandler announcing the finding- of tlie Greely party he said : •' 1 would urgently suggest that the bodies now on hoard be placed in metallic cases here for safer and better trans- portation in a seaway. This appears to me imperative." As Mr. Chandler was in West Point, the despatch was answered by Rear-Admiral Nichols, Acting-Secretary of the Navy. He said : "Use your own discretion about care and transportation of bodies." Secretary Chandler afterward telegraphed : " Prepare thera according to your judgment and bring them home." It took some days to prepare the iron caskets, which were all bolted and riveted. It was remarked at the time by ex- perienced officers that this would hardly have been necessary for the preservation of the frozen bodies. They could safely have been brought on, without any delay, in wooden coffins. The design was obviously to prevent all possibility of friends of the deceased being given an opportunity to look at their remains for the purpose of identification or otherwise, kven the sailors on the relief ships, with the exception of a lew men who assisted in removing the; bodies, were not alhnved to see them. The lips of the officers were sealed. Wlua Commander Schley met Secretary Chandler and General Hazen at Portsmouth, August 2d, on the arrival of the ships from St. John's, he was very much agitated, and cailcti the gentlemen into the cabin of the vessel, where he comnuiiii- cated to them those terrible facts. The sufferings and privations of the men in their canvas A HORRIBLE DISCOVERY. 427 hut durinc^ the long, bitter winter of 1884 have not half been told. It has been published that after the game gave out early in February they lived principally on sealskins, lichens, and shrimps. As a matter of fact, they were kept alive on human flesh. When the rescuing party discovered the half- starved survivors their first duty was to look to the two men who were insensible from cold and privation, even to the point of death. One of them, a German, by the name of Ser(,^eant Hlison, was wild in his delirium. " Oh," he shrieked, as the sailors took hold of him to lift him tenderly, "don't let them shoot me as they did poor Henry. Must I be killed and eaten as Henry was? Don't let them do il. Don't! Don't!" KILMNG SKAI.S. The sailors were horrified, but at once reported the man's words to Commander Schley. After a brief investigation he felt satisfied that the poor fellow was speaking the; truth, and that some of the men who perished had been stripped of their flesh to keep their surviving comrades alive. Mr. Schley proposed to make thorough work of it. When the horrible reality was brought out before an investiL^atinLT committee he did not propose to hav<; it rest solely on his oral testimony. He instructed two or three gentlemen, among whom was Dr. Ames, the surgeon of the Bear, to make a careful examina- tion, and put their conclusions in writing. This was done, I <^M M 428 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. i 4 ,?" ' ( , ■ m h and thi^ reports arc now in the hands of the Navy l)(j);\rt- ment. Lieutenant Greely was decidedly averse to havinjr the bodies of the buried dead disturbed. He thoui^ht it wise, as they had been buried so long, to let them remain in ih(Mr Arctic graves. Commander Schley did not agree* with lijm. The bodies were dug from their graves in the little hill just back of the permanent camp establishes! in October, 1883. Most of the blankets contained nothing but heaps of white bones, many of them p.v:ked clean. The remains could be' identified only by the marks on the blankets. By inciniries Ct)inmander Schley tli -^over- d that many of the seventeen men who art; saitl to have perished from starvation had h(;en eaten by their famishing comrades. It was the one last re- sort. Provided supplies had not arrived, deadi start;d the hungry and crazed mtn in the face, but there was hope if life would hold out for even a few weeks. It is reported that the only men who escaped the knife were three or four who died of scurvy. Charles B. Henry's death was particularly tragic. He was a young German, his real name being Charles Henry bach, without any relatives in this country, and joined Company H, Fifth Cavalry, in Cincinnati. His friends tried to dissuade him from going with the expedition, but his spirit of adven- ture was aroused by tales of Arctic exploits, and he deter- mined to go. Driven to despair by his frightful hunocr, Henry saw an opportunity to steal a little more than his share of rations, and he made the attempt. He was found out and shot for his crime. In the published official report the death of this man is set down as having occurred on June 6th, When the body was found his hands and face, thciiiirh shrunken, were intact and recognizable ; but nearly ('V(;ry- where else the skin had been stripped from him and the llesh picked from the bones. Kven his heart and lungs were eaten by his comrades. One rib was found shattered by a bullet balls anil to another small fragments of lead were attached. A bullet hole was found in the skin. The body was in this condition when it was interred. In an interview Lieutenant (ireely thus spoke of tht; death of Henry : " The tragic end of Private Henry was first referred to, and Lieutenant Greely admitted that the man was shot by orders on June 6th. As early as March, before the party went into '^.Ji A HOKKinM'; DiSCOVKKY. 429 Its siimmor camp, it was susjK'ctcd that Henry had been secretly possessini;;^ liimself of nnieii more than liis share of the slender stores, and this susj)icion finally heeoininjL^r a eer- tainty the Lieutenant had th(.' utmost difficulty in protectinjj^ the culi)rit from the natural iiuliL^nialion of his comrades. Henry was at one time discovered intoxicated, havin^;^ broken into the stock of liquors, and it became necessary, in ortler to preserve the all-important discipline of the little party, to warn him that a sunmiary military execution would follow fiirlhd('ri»ks. ( >n )miic '^[\\ l.i(Mit(Miant ( inM'ly signed {\\c onlciol Ihc ('xcciidon 01 I |( my, \vh<< liad hvcw charL^cd willi slcalinn liaron. Tlic pa|)( 1 w,)., liandcd to liini hy I .Dm.;. ('(>n»('inin«; this , I v,\\\ only say, lliat durin«; the last Inrly d.iys not an oiina? of hacon ( onld he found in th<> r.iinp. Ou the 2()lh day o\' )ni\<* 1 .iciiicn.nii (ircH'lv was in a helpless condition, and nnai)l(' to know wliai was iLioini; on ontsid<\ ( )n this day S(Mi^<'ant l-onj; killed Private^ 1 lenry hy shootini; hiiM in the back, and then rt|M)H<(| to Lieutenant (lre(dy that the e\e( ution had taken pkuc. .uM. inq" that Henry h.id been intoxir.ited. Henry was scin hiiiir for victuals wIum\ he was shot. Ow the same day l.on^ shot twt) plarmii;ans, whiih fact he concealed Irom his comp.inioiis. Henry's lioily. fi'om which flesh was cut oil, was \r\{ unlnniid until the ilav when die rescuing ships hove in si^hi. rii(> shoolino o\ Triv.ite 1 lenry was (MUirely u nj u si i liable, .uul no- body is to blame for it but Serocant Lono. He and I'Kthr- icks W(Me ih.'> only mcMubcrs of our party who could walk 011 boaril of the steam launch, the others hail to be carried ilinc by tlie sailors." b^lison w.is feund in a conditioti which makes his allei^a- tit>ns, to say tlu^ least, sui;i;t'stive of inaccuracy. In an int(M-vi(^w Lieutenant (ireely on the j^th day of Au- gust pave the lollowiiv' semi-ollicial account of the (events of the latter part o\ {\\c retreat southward from b'ort ConiL^^cr, which can only be made more ex[)licit but no mori; impressive by his t>Hicial report: About November ist the party be<;an to be served with one-tpiarler rations, and dt^bilitated health soon showed [hv effect of this insullicient amount of food. The men were not before this in as qoml condition to withstand Arctic weather as they had been a year befor(\ About NoviMiiber 1st pro- visions were missed from ♦^h.e stores, and it was concliKh il that they must have been stolen. Much comi)laint was niaii( by the men. and threats aj^ainst the thii^f were loud. Jaiuiary 24th the parly was near perishinq; from asphyxia and several of its members were unconscious. Private Henry during; this terrible experience was seen by one of the Esquimaux to steal some of the bacon from the stores. He soon afterwards was taken ill from overloacliiiL; A IKiUKIIlMi DISCUVKKY. 433 Ills sloiiiarli ami vomih d n|) llu- l)a(nn iimli^^'^rslrd. An in- V('sti_i;ati»)r) was had aixl I Icmy wa;; provd [Miilty not only of this l)iil <>l several previous ihelts. It was a lenil)l(! slate ol alliiirs. I leniy's indijMianl ( om- s demanded his deadi. ( )ver and over at;ain lleiiiy lised to relorin, l>nt this did not ;,lill the < lainoi lor hi!» r;i(l«" iile Lieutenant (ireely reinonstrat i ■U] I I 4 u •.>' AH Al« riC I.MM.OKAIIONS. TIloy wore ordered to shool liim, ciiroiintcrini^ as little daiiiyT lh(MiiscIv(!s as possil>l(\ as llcnry w.is tlu! strorii^cst of iIk party. Sadly lUr dkmi dcpartrd on (Iumi torrihlf crnind. Tin ij comra(l('s Iclt in cami) tmiUHl llicir eyes to the ocean. In a few ininntes the bnuvc; bore to tlieir ears the sound ol two (|niek pistol shots. Ail were silent. Slowly. ail< i a short iiUerv.il, the men n^lurnecl. The written ord(M' was handed to Lieutenant (Ireely, and the horrible but necessary execution was ove/. ll(Miry was nevcM' seen a^ain by his roinrades, and his body was understood to \)r interred at the foot of the northwest iee lloe. The order lor {]\r excnaition of Ibniry was that afternoon read to the survivors, and all coneurri'd in tlnr justice and ne- cessity o{' the act. No report of tlu; manner of his death has ever beiMi made to Lieutenant (ireely, antl the sntvivors tacitly ignored the terrible remembrance. All throuL^h the retreat tlu" discipline, with the (exception ot Henry's thefts, was well maim wed ainl all yielded implicu ob(Hlience <*v(mi to the last dreai day on Cape Sal)in(\ A verbal report was made to (ieneral 1 la/en by Lieutenant ("ireely shortly alter tin; arrival of the relief expedition at Portsmouth. In r(\oard to the execution of Henry ( lineral Hazen said : " It was irjt only justifiable, but the noblest ihinijj in the expedition." A written report was submitted by Greely to the War De- partment a few days as^o fully covering Henry's case, and a court-martial has been asked for by Li(^utcMiant Greely if the facts seem to the War ne|)artment to warrant it. In closinj;' Lieutenant Greely said : "I n^t^ret that the re- sponsibility of decidinj^ HcMiry's cas(' was thrust upon me, but I feel that I should have failed in my duty to the rest of the noble men of my command had I not acted as I did." Whether the four bodies which were swept out to sea and never recovered would have added further evidence to this story of horHble cannibalism cannot be learned now. though the papers n the possession of the Navy I)ej>artment give all the panicu'ars as told by the survivors. At first they were loth to tu.)k of the horrible experience they had passed through, but after promises of absolute secrecy their ('vidcnce was all taken in writing. Lieutenant Greely said that he wished the men had been rescued by the army instead of the A iiokKiuiJ'. Disi ovr.kv. 435 navy. (^^ coursr it was inipossiltic to kcc() tlv actual state ol .iffairs from llic crew, hut al)soliitc silrtw <• was irnjioscd ii|)()i) lluin. riu' ofdccrs vv<'r<' not allowed (o talk ol what h.ul OK ""■<•'' '" their pn'sciuc. ()nc man who openly sjtokc in tlic mess room alxuit the inhiiinanity of iisin^ fragments ol luiinaii fl(;sh as hait for shrimps was severely reprimanded. Not a word ol tin; laet.s was ^nven to anyl)f)dy nntil Comman- der Schley made his report to Secretary Chandler. It is more than prohahle that, wiien all tin* (htails of tlu; story ar(; known, I )r. ( )( tave l*avy. the surgeon of the l Ix'lorc" VVillmiil aiiollirr vvdid tin* «()inm,iii(!< i liinricd lu'low. I'lu* in«Mnl)(Ms of the cicvv were a Iitll«' nunr ( (uninniiii aiivr l>iil «'»)nllitiinj4 in tlu-ir slalcnicnts. Ivnoiirji was !,aiil, Ikiu. <'v< r, to conliiin some ol the iirjy stories alloal. Al !• mm ;, men, and loiul claj)pini; of hands and a llntter of liaiui- kerchit>fs on the part of the charmiiiL; huly i^iiests. ( om. niander \V. S. Schley, Charles S. Cotton, antl Lieutenant VV. S. h",mor\. as they descended from the side-ladder to the (|uartiMdecU, looUi^l like hron/.ed sailors who had cruised on the eijualor and amon^ troi)ical islands. No one would dream from their aspect that tlu* sun of tlu* polar rei^ion had left its haiul upon their h(\-ilthy complexions. Their color suLjoested the ardent rays of tlu^ fiery tropics. They wnr evidently in excellent health, none th(' worse for their [x'ciiliar and dangerous experience amid ber^s and ice-lloes. Shortly after the arrival of the commandino officers the juniors came on board, and there was a deli«>htful meeting amouLT old mess- mates, relations, and friends. Many of the wives of the offi- cers of the relief expedition were on board to meet their husbands, and the reunions were very touching. Mrs. Grecly, her brother, and brother-in-law were sent to the Thetis, the J' !' 'e S A IIOUKIIIM-: IHSCOVKRY. 437 inomfil. ;.lu* .uk Iioifd, in llic < ii|)l;iiir'. jmj;. and was tli«- Inst (0 \v< i( nine her lnisl)ans«(|ii»ntly •'lalivr', ol llic snr vivci'.ol the ( Ircrly cxjH'jIiiicMi vvcic pci inili'd in vi'.ii lln-ir liicml ., I>iit j'/'ncial viiiilin^^ was (noliiliitrd. ( it n* r.il | l.i/cn, n'MiciiCiitin;; Hk' S(m iclaiy n( War, vvlio was iniaMc lo join (he ccivinonics, al.o i ailed on I ,iciilcnanl (inclyand snr vjvdis and w.i:. vi.iMy a(l'(|rd hy ilu- mcctinj-, as were llic (.(•iillciM'-a (onncclcd vvilh die si. id. She JMouidil lirr two iilllc 'Mrls vvidi lirl, were nnahle to he pre-.ciii on a((()iinl ol tlwir advaiued a;.;e. Mrs. (ireely is a tall, slim lady, with s.id eyes ami a thin, wan lace, which showed the anxiefy she had snf lc;rcd. She wenl lo the adiniral's ■: m r :!i Ml ■M' •4 li . i( 448 ARCTIC KXFLORATIONS. The casket was next placed upon the floor, and the un- shrouded form taken from it and placed upon the table. On the bottom of the coffin were noticed two large spots of blood, but tliey were pronounced of common occurrence at burials. Tiie sheet was taken away and the tarred rope which entwined the blanket cut, and the work of taking off this last covering began. Slowly antl reverentially the blanket was removed, and then there was a suppressed cry of horror upon the lips of those present. The half-body, half-skeleton remains lay outstretched in all their ghastly terror. The blackened, fleshless face, bearing marks of Arctic toil, had no resemblance to the dead man. The head was covered with long, matted, dark-brown hair and a lighter-colored mous- tache cleaved to the upper lip, while a wool-like beard of the same color surrounded the lower portion of the coun- tenance. The skin was dried to the skull. The sightless sockets, the half-opened mouth, gave the dead man a look of mute, appealing agony. " That tells the whole story," moaned one of the brothers, Sfazine with a strangle fascination on the awful scene. The skeleton was slirunken. There was little, if any, flesh on the arms and legs^ and the body from the throat down was denuded of its skin. The feet were incased in bluish woollen socks and were emaciated, but almost intact. Upon the right side of the breast, between the ribs, appeared two gaping wounds, which did not fail to inspire those present with a sus- picion that poor Kislingbury might have been foully dealt with. Th.e doctors examined the mouth, and John Kisling- bury, watching their movements, soon directed the attention of his brother to evidence which established the identity of the body, saying : "That is he, Frank ; see, his tooth is gone!" A plate containing several false teeth was in the mouth. Fur- ther proof was furnished by marks on the right toe, which had been injured, while the lieutenant was guarding rebel prison- ers at Elmira, by a horse stepping upon his foot. For some time he expected he would have to have the toe amputated, but it finally was saved. When the doctors touched the moustache of the dead man it came off partially. The nose was found, as described by officers of the relief expedition, partly missing. When the remains were turned over on one side, the skinless back and bare shoulder blades presented the same sickening spectacle as the front. ill; i.t TEKKlIil.E STOKV OF CANNIBALISM. 449 The physicians did not find any evidence of violence, and placed the body in its original position. Tiien the brothers were informed that the stomacli and other internal organs were all present, and they were asked whether they desired the same to be opened in order to complete the examination and (establish the cause of death. They answered that nothing should be left undone whicli could furnish proof upon that point. It was found that the int(;stines adhered to tlu* sides of the abdomen, proving that there had been recent inllam- mation of the stomach and bowels. From the large intestine a ball of dark hair-like substance was taken, showing that the last thing eaten by deceased in his starving conclitioti was probably portions of clodiing or sealskin strips. As it had bcMii reported by the survivors that Li(!utenant Kislingbury had last fall sustained a rupture by falling off an iceberg, an examination was made of the lower portion of the bod)', but no evidence wha*:ever was foimd that anythiiiL:' of the kind had occurred. No internal evidence of any wounds was found, and the conclusion reached was that the openings be- tween the ribs on the right side of the breast were caused by the knives of those who stripped the body of its flesh and skin to still the terrible cravings of long-ai/^ravated huni:er. Li utenant Kislingbury had died of starvation and disease, and his ( omrades had eat(.'n his body, like those of others who had dieii before and after him. The examination was concluded at 8.45, and the remains were again placed in the casket and reinturred. Subsequently the physicians in attendance made and subscribed to the above sworn statement in accordance with the facts. When the body of Private William \^niistler, of the Greely Arctic Expedition, was interred at the Rockfield Cemetery, two miles east of Delhi, Ind., there was no suspicion of canni- balism. The body was consigned to the grave with due honor, and with the pomp of military display. The relatives of young Whistler are simple country folk, and have litde ac- cess to the daily newspapers. Christian WhisUer, the father of the dead explorer, gave no heed to the printed tales of cannibalism, but the aged William W^histler, the grandfather of the deceased man, as soon as he read the story resolved to have the body exhumed and to see for himself what there might be in the rumors. It was decided by him to exhume the body on Sunday, but arrangements to that effect could 29 i! ; m I:- IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // ^ i" 1.0 I.I •^ li^ |2.2 1^ £; itf ME L25 1 U.ii.6 II =^= 1!!!!=^ ^ 6" ► ^ /. f 7 Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 23 WeST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MSIO (716) •73-4S03 ^\^ A iV :\ \ ^ Ov <^ 4 & 450 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. wm mkpM mm III i:;« not be completed. It was the intention of the grandfather to have the exhumation strictly quiet, and, as the ne\vspa|)(rs had said that the body would be disinterred on Sunday, he postponed it untli diis morning. So quietly was the affair conducted that farmers within a half-mile knew nothing of it. Six men opened the grav(; at 6.20 A. M., and at 7.15 the casket was carried from the grave to beneath the shade of a tree in the cemetery. The hody lay in what is known as the Whistler Graveyard. This ceme- tery is a veritable country churchyard. There are but twelve graves in it. Fourteen persons besides the laborers who opened the grave were present. They were Dr. Charles K Angell, Dr. E. W. H. Beck, VV. F. Sharer, W. Smith, I). A. Fassett, L. G. Beck, Mr. and Mrs. Jeffjrson Deil, William Whistler and wife, Christian Whistler, and representatives of the press. It took only ten minutes to loosen the fifty-two bolts and raise the lid of the casket. The body was wrapped in cotton waste, around which was a hemp cord. Displacing these, a blanket was found next to the body. When this blanket was removed the ghastly sight of a mere skeleton was seen, there was nothing of the body left, save the head and trunk. All the flesh had been cut from the limbs. The arms, legs, and shoulders were bare bones. Strips of flesh had also been taken from the breast. The left foot, which had been frozen, was not touched, and the left hand was unharmed. The face was sunken, but not unlike the ordinary corpse, and the red hair and short beard made it easy for Whistler's friends to identify him. It was particu- larly noticeable that the bones were picked entirely clean; not a vestige of flesh is left on them. The back has nothinj; on it. In fact, the only things left of the man are his head, breast, intestines, and the left hand and left foot. The appearance would show that an expert had done the cutting of the flesh. A thorough examination by the physi- cians showed that the stomach was entirely empty. The head and neck were unharmed by blows. The head was in- cased in a knitted cape, over which was a sealskin. The skeleton hands wore mits — a mitten covering half the hand When the coffin was opened there was a strong odor of alco- hol, but no further very bad stench. The physiciansi made no report, and will not unless asked TERRIBLE STORY OF CANNIRAI.ISM. 451 hv the government officials. They say that they can report nierely a fleshless man picked as clean as if his bones were to be varnished. The aged grandparents took a look at the body for a minute only before it was again fastened in the casket. They said that the face was easily recognizable, and as to the horrible condition of the body they had but little to say. " Poor boy," said the old lady, " he was a good lad, but it is better that he has been eaten by his comrades tlian that he should have eaten of them." Whisder died on May 24th. He was twenty-seven years of age. The bodies of Privates Charles B. Henry and Roderick Schneider were conveyed from Governor's Island and buried in Cypress Hills Cemetery with appropriate hont . s. The services, which were held in the chapel on the island, were conducted by Post-Chaplain E. H. C. Goodwin, and attended by General Hancock, his staff, and the companions-in-arms of the deceased. On the coffins Union Jacks were folded, and when the services were over, the bodies were placed upon caissons tmd escorted to the steamboat Chester A. Arthur, on which they were taken to Brooklyn. General Hancock and staff followed in steam-launches, and the sol- diers were transported on a barge. The cortege landed at the foot of Atlantic street. A large crowd awaited its arrival for over two hours. The bodies were removed by eight soldiers, and the escort set out for the cemetery in the following order: Brooklyn Police Squad ; Mounted Battery F, Fifth Artillery; Band of the Fifth Regiment of Artillery; four Foot Bat- teries; carriage containing the Rev. Mr. Goodwin and Medi- cal Director Janeway ; the caskets containing the bodies of Privates Schneider and Henry, on artillery caissons, flanked by pall-bearers on foot ; carriages containing Generals Han- cock and Ferry, Adjutant-General Whipple, and staff and regimental field officers. The route of procession was lined with people, and the flags were displayed at half-mast on the City Hall, Municipal Building, Court House and many private buildings. On reaching Cypress Hills the body of Private Henry was borne to a grave in the soldiers' plot. The remains of Pri- vate Schneider were placed in the receiving vault, where they 'm •152 Ai« ii< ;\ri »>K \ut»Ns. I i Si ■.. * S t V. »i ' s'> rcinaiiu'il until (he arrival ol l»is r«'lativ<-s iuwu (lrnnan\. |t is alloi^tnl tlial hnih lnulii-s wck' citcn l>y ll\«' siirvivm,, Inn tlu' |»rot»l lonlil m»l Ix* cstaltlislu'il lur ilic aluivt* irasttn.. 1 1\<" KMuains ol Scii^rant William II. Cross, ol ll\c (,i((ly l'A|u'*litiiM), Nvcrr n>nv<\('il to Washiiii^Mon, I >. I'., wIkk- iI„, inttMiiUMU took pKuc. A tt>mn\iUrf »om|t«»:ir»i ol \\ ijli.nii |. l'*lm Minni-,. .iii<| ,\ Lanlmaii. irprcsiniinv; I'lanUlin l,o»liM\ No. :. I\ni;;lit', (,| IVthi.is. rctrivt'il [\\r rcm.iins at tlu* .\utlnvcst, and il in .1 strong Mark taskcl, n\aJ<' «»l ln>il<'r iron, srnirrjv rivett'il, in whirh it was plarcd al (lovcrnoi's Island. This easket, with iis fonicnts. w<'i>;hr(l seven hmulr< d puimds. The lid was boltevi on with lilty six serew holts, whi.h Udiilij liave iliseonra!_;t il anv attempts to open the casket. e\en it ii were vieemeil ailvisahle to open it. The l\nii;hls ol TnUims eomniitlee reii'i\<'d a tileiMam Irom the I'osi (Jn.irle! 'na-tt r at ( lovernor's Island telling; them not to <>pcn tin- (askel iin der an\' i-irenmst.\ni'es. It was inlende«l {o \\.\\r evpo-.i'd the remains to view, hnt it is snpp«>s<'d that they were noi in i^ood lontlition to be e\pose K<7Minrni ; ( niii|Mtiy I', I'niiidi k»j;iiiHnl ; \(>ikvill<' Itand; visiliiu; I'(»M'. ( ,. ,\, !<.(•! .SiMiiandoali, .S|. (lair. Mincisv illf, Tori ( '.uhon and S( liii\ ikill I lavrn ; ( lovvm r..',l. No. .' and lii'Mids. ( I. A. i\., (iiiaid ol I Iniior ; licarsr ; ulalivcs Tlir inlcnnrni look plaic al ihr ( imnan ( "alliolic C*in(!- liTV. <> I \vl)i( li i hiin I) dir , al I'adcn, derm. niy. and lo avoid licini- dialled inio dw army lie Idl his ralliciland, arriving; in Anuiiia on iIh- 2<^iIi <»! I < jaiiaiy, |S()S. In a l('tt<'|- to Ins hrolhcr Al (»IS. ( lal<-d >ix niijcs iiorili ol l.aily I'ranklin i?ay, July ^»lli, i.S.Si, lir sa\s: "I am in j'«»od IkmIiI) and spirits, and Iravr ihr Uniird Stairs with tlic lull assurance thai I shall sc<- its shores ai-ain. Ah «r askiii}^ his IViciids lo think kindly ol him, In- < om hnhs I>y sayinj^ : " I will siii(l\' think ol yon in my cold altodc. Surrounded hy snow aixl icf, my heart shall heat warm lor yon rees helow zero." The ohsecpiies ol LienlenanI James l». Lockwood, United .StatM n '^'Ul n M 454 ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. proceeded down the main aisle. Halting at the chancel, the pall-bearers deposited the remains on the altar and the ser- vices were continued. The pall-bearers were Lieutenant Peck, W. D. Orme, S. W. Rittenhouse, W. Atkinson, Ensign R. B. Dashiell, and Nevett Steele. The coffin was beautifully decorated with flowers, in the centre a crown and the rest covered with crosses. Lieutenant Lockwood's father, mother, and three sisters and Admiral Balch were present. After service was concluded at the church the corpse wrs removed to the hearse, and the procession formed and pro- ceeded down College avenue to the Naval Cemetery, the bell of St. Anne's tolling a solemn dirge as the cortege moved away in the following order: Music; firing party; chaplain; pal 1 -bearers ; hearse; pall- bearers; body-bearers; sailors, bearing national colors draped; cadetr ; officers and professors ; the governor's guards ; car- riages ; civilians. On arriving at the Naval Cemetery the remains were de- posited in a grave between those of Commander Edward Terry and Lieutenant Collins, of the United States Navy, the site of which is a high, woody bluff that overlooks the birth- place and alma mater of the young hero. The religious rites ended, the firing party gave the martial spirit a soldier's last farewell, and Lieutenant Lockwood was left to sleep till the final reveille. Sergeant Edward Israel was buried at his home, Kalama- zoo, Michigan. He was the youngest man in the expedition, being only twenty-three years of age, and the only Hebrew in it. His friends came on to receive the body. Sergeant David Ralston was sent to Howard, Knox county, Ohio. Sergeant David Linn was buried in Philadelphia. Private William A. Ellis' remains were taken charge of by his mother for interment at Clyde, New York. In the officiaj report of Edward H. Green, M. D., surgeon of the steamship Thetis, of the Greely relief squadron, on the condition of the survivors of the Greely party when found at their camp on Smith's Sound, and their subsequent treatment, and as a preliminary to the medical history of the case" of the wretched survivors of the expedition, the surgeon gives a rdsum^ of their mode of life at Camp Clay, in order that the terribl:*, story of cannibalism. 455 reader may better appreciate the condition in which hey were found. On September 29th, 1883, Lieutenant Greely landed with his party at Baird Inlet after thirty days' exposure drifting on an ice-Hoe ; the record left at that time stated the party were all well. On October 25th, they moved around to a point between Cape Sabine and Cocked Hat Island. A glacier was situated at the foot of the mountains on either side of them, about a mile distant. They constructed a house of loose rock and moss, the walls being three feet in thickness. The roofing consisted of old canvas stretched over a boat ; the dimensions of the house were 25 feet long by 17 feet wide by 4 feet high, making a cubic air-space of 1,700 feet; in this the twenty-five members of the party lived all winter, having a cubic air allowance of about seventy feet for each man. The whole party could barely squeeze in and lie at length, two or three being obliged to occupy the same sleeping-bag ; the effect of this diminished air-space will be seen later on. Their hut was but 100 yards removed from the ice-foot of the sound, and 200 yards to the south of them was an artificial lake, from which they drew their water supply by melting up ice ; as the sea-water strained into this lake, they were drink- ing brackish water all the while. On November ist, 1883, Lieutenant Greely took a careful account of his stock of provisions, and found there was but a whole ration for each man (estimating as an army ration, about forty-six ounces of solid food per diem) for forty days. Dr. Pavy and he advised together, and it was with some re- luctance that they determined to divide up the rations so as to make them last until March ist, putting aside from time to time, so that at the end they would still have ten days' sup- plies left with which to attempt the trip to Littleton Island, if the straits were frozen over. Dr. Pavy did not think the party could exist on the ration during the winter, but the common voice was to make it go as far as it would ; so each man was given the following daily allowance: Meat and blubber '. 4.33 ounces. Bread and dog biscuit 6.5 " Canned vegetables and rice 1.4 " Butter and lard 0.75 " Soup and beef extract ,..0.90 " Berries, pickles, raisins, and milk i. " I i i i !' ! I M -ii; '" ;i ,. ! 4S:.!- : •1 456 ARCTH: KXI'I.OKATIONS. If- ^ Tho daily allowance for th(; four months was 14.8S ounces. Duriiii; the winter tiur followinj^ amount of s^aiiu; was sttdind, wiiich acKlcd to tliuir stores: two s(;als, yiijidini^ about u,, pounds ol meat, one bear, yic.'lilinj; ^cx) pounds ot nu;at, ( i^hi loxes, four pounds eaeii, and sixty dovekios (uria bruiuiithjij^ a small bird, weigiiinL; about a pound. Marcii ist found tin; i.»arty intact, with the excejition of SerL,'eant Cross, who dietl in January with well-marked scor- butic symptoms — the only case of pronounced scurvy iluu dm'eloped — ami 1 lans, their J'^sf|uimau hunter, who was lost in his boat vvhile huntini^ seals, early in l-'ebruary. TIk; n^st of thcr stores having,'' bi^m exiiausted, the remaining supplies wen; ilivided up so as to last until May 12th. After the last reduction th(' party bi:^Mn rapidly to weaken and tlie. About the; 24th of March the whole party was ovcr- couK? with asphyxia, and nearly lost their lives, owim,'^ to th(> atmos|)here Ix'ini;' surchar^i.'d with carbonic acid. They luul lit their alcohol stove in tlui hut to cook a mt-al, without j)rc- viouslv haviuij' removed the raijs from the vent-hole in tlu- roof: the remairiiuL,'' oxvi^en of the air was soon consunicil by the stove, and the wliole party W(:re seized with iainliiess. vertis^o, and dyspncua. It was with the j^jreatest difficulty tlu.y strui^Li'K'd from their sleepinj^^-bai^^s, and stumbled ancl wcMe helped into the oj)en air, many faintiui^ away and droppiiiir unconscious after reachin;^ the openinor. Beini;' poorly clad for a tenijATature such as .i)revailed outside at the time ( — 46" v.), many were frostbitten. The after effects of this mishap remained for a long time, and weakenetl many of them. After May 12th everything like a regular ration was ex- hausted, and they struggled on as best they could, catchinti^ the shrimps (which they boiled) ; gathering reindeer moss, which, when boiled, yields a mucilage similar to Iceland moss, and boiling up the sealskin linings of their sleeping-bags, from which a gelatinous mass was extracted. They had no fuel for artificial warmth, and barely sufficient to allow for melting the i^e for procuring drinking water and to cook a meal every other day; so that the living temperature of the hut for the winter was from 5° to 10° Fahi. They recognized the fact that the nearer they could approach a state of hiber- nating, the better were their chances of getting through. Only those employed as cooks and hunters exerted them* ''i'l^'i SS oiin(<-s. IS stMurcd, about i2(; iiu;at, linlu jrimniihii), :cc[itiaj»ers and Kislin^d>nry's diary, Lf)ck- wood's diary, and, in fact, (;very s( ra|) of paper relating' to the (!Xp(;dition an; in charg*' of the War I >''parttn'nt at W'ash- in^aou. 'I'he crew of tlu; 'I'lu-tis can testily that the hody of the last man dead, .Schneidcrr, was not mullilated in any way, and the fact that we ke|)t IJison alive in tiie hopeless state we were in on,i,du to convince anybody tiiat we an,* not canni- hals. .Sinc(; my return from Newl)ur\'port eve-ry one of my men has called npon me. They ( ame in a hody, and assured ine empiiaiically that they kn(;w nothini,^ about the c(^ndition of th<; l)()di(;s of their fallen comrades, and each solemnly swore that he was inn(HX.'nt. I'crhaps thos»: who died last fed upon the b(Klies of those wIuj di(;d Ijefore : hut all this is siip|)osition. I can hut answer ft)r myself and for my orders to the party. For days and weeks I lay on my back unable to move. If in my enfeebled condition one or more of my men AkI upon human flesh it was beyond my control and certainly beyond my knowledge. I know that I have been criticised for not telegraphing the fact of the shooting of Henry as soon as I arrived at St. John's, but you must re- member that I was in a wretched condition of body and mind. I was in a cjuandary whether or not I should be tried for .1 1 m 4^0 AK( IK I'.Xri.nKAIIdNS. iminlcr, as Henry was shot on my own responsibility and ii.»t l)y tlu" order of a regular eonrl inarlial." I lie si( kenini^' horrors that (luster about (Ireely's liiil. part)' of \vr«l( lied cannibals hav<' not yet hail been told. IIk aiknowledi^ed shoot ini; ol I jenry, tlu' lindin;^ ol the bod\ oi lat'iilenanl KisiinL^bnry stri|»|»e(l ol' (lesh, the bnryinj^ ol a \\«»odr. I*avy! i cannot rid myself of his ima_!.;<'," bc^an the youiiu; sailor, briiiLjiiiL; his chair still closer. '* lie is j^ct- tini^ to be a ni!.;htmare with me, and if he comes to me in such a manner lunv must it be with those; mad wretches who fell upon him aiul ilevoured him? \'ou may think the shootiiii^^ of Henry was sat! enough, but infinitely more pathetic was the death of tliis poor fellow. To lie there on his couch and see the luinsjry eves of his stron^jer comrades Lrloalin<' over his wasted form and prayini; for his death was enoiiL;!! to drive a well man mad. And so it drove this poor sick cloctor to his death. He died by his own liand that the starving 'tevils about him mioht have one more meal. "Tile very day that Henry was condemned to die Surqcon Pavy took hiij own life. The despairintj little company had split up into two factions, both clamoring^ for the death of some one that the others might live. With all his strength of character Lieutenant Greely was forced to yield to the de- mands of these mad wretches, and with heavy heart issued the order that took Henry from his living comrades and mum. TKUKIIII r. sroKY r the «h-a(l mail ami I i|)i i^uard ovrr it in the L;iavc- vani on iIh' hill. Ihry had iik at leu* srviral days and du-y iiirant lo jL^iianl with jralous wau Iiliihu.'ss their };iaviyard 'iiiiiii'.' room. I hr olh