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Un des symboles suivants apparaitra sur la derniAre image de cheque microfiche, selon le cas: iB symbols — »> signifie "A SUIVRE ", le symbols V signifie "FIN". Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at different reduction ratios. Those too large to be entirely included in one exposure are filmed beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to right and top to bottom, va many frames as required. The following diagrams illustrate the method: Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent Atre filmAs A des taux de rAduction diffArents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un seul clichA, il est filmA A partir de Tangle supArieur gauche, de gauche A droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'images nAcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrent la mAthode. 1 2 3 32X 1 2 3 4 5 6 ■^' . Ai^y^^^ ^v ■ w THK GREAT BRITISH NORTHWEST TERRITORY. By lyEE Meriwether. CANADA captured? Bah! What's Canada but a few acre.s of snow and ice.'' " So spoke lyouis XV. when told of Eng- land's victor3' on the banks of the St. Lawrence — an utterance prompted by cha- grin and mortification, yet also largely due to a verj- real and dense ignorance of his lost colony across the ocean. Indeed, it is a question whether a large number of people, otherwise well informed, are not as ignorant on the subject to-day as was Louis XV. in 1763. " You are not going to Canada in that summer suit and spring overcoat? " said a friend, who knew of mj- intended trip, and met me on the way to the station. ' ' Why not ? ' ' said I . " Do you not know that, excepting mountain, lake, and sea- coa.st districts, summer in Canada is hot- ter than in New Orleans ? " ]\Iy friend said that he did not know this; that many others are equally igno- rant is evidenced by the number of tourists one sees in Canada provided with only heavy clothing, and sweltering in a tem- perattire of one hundred degrees in the shade. Only recentl}' have our school geographies ceased to misrepresent Brit- ish America by a vague white sjiot on the map; and even now, how many Ameri- cans, among thosv- fairly well informed, know that were the United States laid on top of Canada, enough Canadian territory would remain imcovered to make half a dozen kingdoms the size of Belgium or Holland ? The line of its northern boundarj', ex- tended two thousand miles eastward, would pass through Hudson's baj- and Labrador; due north of Montreal or Que- bec it would pass through a wild w.iste of unexplored and uninhabitable wilderness. But in Alberta this same parallel of lati- tude finds a country growing grass seven feet high, and forty bushels of wheat per acre. Why this great difference ? Be- cause, west of Manitoba, the isothermal lines make a j>reat turn to the north. Why do ihey tui n to the north ? I do not 37138 Pecjfic M, W. Historv n--'. PROVINCIAL. LIBi'^APY i6 THE GREAT liRiriSH NORIIIWEST '/ERR/'/'ORY. ktiDW, and found no one who docs know. Wliat is called the "Chinook," a warm wind, comes into bein^ somewhere north of Idaho or Montana, and swee])injj^ to the north, tempers the climate and en- ables the rich soil of the vSaskatchewan valley to ])roduce Inxiiriant cro])s of sjilen- did qnantit}- as well as qualit\-. In a two- luuKlred-mile drive tlirou}i;h A.berta in company with I'rof. Wm. vSaunders, di- rector-jj^eneral of Canadian agriculture, the fields of wheat, barley, oats, and other grains, the wild flowers, berries, and nuts which we saw made it hard to realize that we were five hundred miles north of Idaho, on the same parallel of latitude with Hudson's bay. Edmonton, the capital of this district, is reached by a branch of the Car.adian Pacific railway, two hundred miles long, beginning at Calgary, on the main line, kota, who were dissatisfied with the rigor- ous climate and drouths of th?t State, and were seeking new homes a '.housand miles to the northwest. A man who in the east has been a mere unit among mill- ions, umioticed and unknown feels flat- tered at the reception accorde(' him by the western people — people, for the immigra- tion agent is not alone in extending cordial greeting to newcomers. When the main- line train disappeared beyond the western horizon, after dropping me down on that particular portion of the thousand miles of prairie known as Calgary, it was not thirty minutes before the local railway agent, the telegrai)h operator, the mayor of the town, and the other ofiicials had intro- duced themselves to me and bid me wel- come. 'I'here are only two trains a week on the branch road north to Edmonton; the time required to get there made not q ..4*,^«*»,'. "fr*"..'- ' ,-^ci^''.- ■^■■'" - -V-.Ag'^^.^-V NEAR CALGARY. and running due north. Mr. R. S. Alex- ander, the Dominion government immi- gration agent, who meets newcomers at Calgary, is armed with bunches of grass seven feet long, with cabbages four feet in diameter, cucumbers three inches thick, and sundry other agricultural specimens which he exhibits as he takes possession of the prospector, escorts him northward, and fills his ear with stories of the coun- try's wonderful fertility. On the day I journeyed north from Calgary, he had in tow thirty-seven farmers from Da- unnatural the inference that nothing less than an intention to locate would prompt such a journey, and thus it was that all along the line I received a warm welcome. For fifty miles north of Calgary the character of the country is similar to that one sees along the Canadian Pacific ;. d- way all the way to Manitoba— a rolling, treeless plain. In two hour.s, however, the train enters a country the soil of which retains a :onsiderable amount of moisture; the grass is green, and one sees herds of cattle, and forests of white spruce and the tin ob; ers THE GREAT BRITISH NORTHWEST TERRITORY. i7 LAKE AGNES, NKAR I,A I'FAN. brushwood. There are few dwcllitifjfs, so few that when one i' seen, jjasscnji'ers run to the car windows and exclaim, " Tiiere's a house ! " as sailors exclaim at sight of a ship on the desert ocean. The half dozen "towns" along- the line look as though they had been set out the night before — as in f:\ct some of them have been; for the railroad has oidy been completed two years, and the oldest town dates since the operation of the road. At one place, where most of the " houses " were white tents set up to shelter immigrants just arrived, a pretty girl in the latest New York stj'le, with a ravishing bonnet and dainty lace-trimmed parasol, was on the station platform to greet us. The sight of a rose blooming in the vSahara desert would be no more surprising than the unexpected sight of that girl with the Fifth avenue raiment in that tent town in the North- west Territory. The rough life which inevitably removes the outward signs of civilization, may in time even affect one's inner nature; we observed, however, tliat the depot loung- ers on this road in Alberta were composed of a class .seldom seen loafing around rail- way stations in otlier countries. This for two rea.sons: there being but two trains a week, when one passes, the entire pop- ulation turns out to witness the 'phenom- enon. The .secotul reason is that a large per cent, of the settlers are educated Kng- lishmen, younger sons, who, not having money enough to nuuntain the dignity of their station in England, come to this country, homestead three hundred and twenty acres of land, and lead a life that is rough but independent, and infinitely more agreeable to the average Ivnglish- nian, imbued with a passion for owning land, than would be a life of work, no matter if light and lucrative, in London. Once, in a rude frontier town, hearing the sweet strain of Mendelssohn's " vSpring vSong " in the hotel i)arlor adjoining my room, I tipped softly in, expecting to see at the j)iano a woman with small, white hands; instead, there sat a man booted and spurred, in a blue flannel sliirt, around his waist a belt holding two revolvers, on his head a cowboy hat with a leather thong extending down and tied under the i8 THE GREAT BRITISH NORTHWEST TERRITORY. I chin. This man, in appearance an un- conth cowboy, in reality an Oxford grad- uate, said he came to Alberta simplj* be- cause he preferred the free, if rough, life of a ranchman to the drudgery and con- finement that is the inevitable lot of a poor man in England. Another class of settler in the British Northwest Territory is composed of what are called " Remittance" Englishmen, — the scapegraces of families of social posi- tion. The "Remittance" Englishman does not work ; his family are content if he will only keep away from England, — the further away the better, so that the expense of a return ticket will insure against his returning, and care is taken never to remit at one time money enough to enable the exile to purchase a ticket for london. These Remittance settlers are picturesque features of the Territory ; thcvtoil not, neither do the}' spin, 3'et no cowbo}', in all his giorj', is arrayed like unto them. In London they were dan- dies, and wore the highest collars, and carried the biggest canes ; in Alberta they wear the broadest-brimnird hats, the high- est boots, and carry the most formidable- looking pistols. The bulk of the settlers are stuidy men, honest in principle, but imbued with little respect for legal technicali- ties. Last year, after the completion of the railroad, some shrewd fellows from the east, discovering that several of the old settlers, who had come two thou- sand miles in ox-carts, to get to Edmon- ton, had omitted certain forms necessary to perfect their titles, made an entr\- on two or three of the best lots in the town. The old settlers consulted a law\-er. ' ' The law against us ? ' ' said the old IlLACKFOOT CAMP ON BOW KIVER. settlers, after the lawj'er had given his opinion : " Mebbeso ; but we ain't against ourselves !" and they forthwith repaired to the board houses which the eastern men had built on the disputed lots, and gave the enemy just ten minutes to vacate. "What if we don't go.-*" said one of the easterners, defiantlj'. " Wh}', then it " ill be uncomfortable, powerful uncomfortable for you," replied the old settlers, "for at the end often minutes we' air a-going to dump these houses into the river." Edmonton's main street runs parallel with the Saskatchewan river, fifty 3-ards from the edge of its blufis that are nearh- three hundred feet high. The lots are betv.een the street and the bluffs ; the houses fronted on the street, with their backs overlooking the river. The old set- tlers were prepared with logs, ropes, and rollers ; at the end of the ten minutes they began operations, and half an hour later there was a mighty roar and splash as the frame house toppled over the bluff into the water. A second half-hour suf- ficed to tumble another house over, and then operations were suspended, for the shrewd easterners, having seen enough to convince them that the climate of Alberta ■was not favorable to their kind of shrewd- ness, packed up their portable effects and departed. It was ten o'clock at night when the railroad journey through this almost vir- gin country ended. A stage drawn by four horses conveyed the passengers through a dark forest to the Saskatche- wan, which was crossed by a ferr}' tied to a pulley wheel on a wire rope suspended across the river. This curious ferry moved across the water, propelled by the rapid current ; then the four horses pulled the stage up a steep, winding road to the summit of the river's bluff, two hun- dred and fifty feet liigh, and fifteen minutes later we dashed down a street brilliant with electric lights, and halted in front of the Alberta hotel, con- ducted by a Corsican, F. Mar- iaggi, who, when I addressed him in Italian, almost fell upon my neck and embraced me. "You, Signor," he said, "are the second person in I THK GREAT BRITISH NORTH WE JT TERRITORY. 19 SCENE ON BOW RIVER, NEAR BANFF. this country to speak to iue in my beauti- ful language." Italians are not fond of migrating to the far north and I wondered that Signor Mariaggi had found even one of his coun- trymen bold enough to share his exile in Alberta. When introduced to this soli- tary Italian settler, I was reminded of the trite saying that, after all, this world of ours is small. Two years ago, when a friend and I rode into Savona, Italy, on bicycles, we were told that wheeling was unlawful, and ordered by a gendarme to dismount ; surprised at the order, we set the bicycles against a wall and demanded an explanation. While engaged in dis- cussion with the gendarme, a cavalry officer, riding bj', turned to stare at the " Inglesi," with their curious wheels and tourist costumes. This incident was re- called by what happened when Signor Mariaggi introduced me to Count X., the one solitary Italian who had followed the innkeeper's example, and drifted to Ed- monton. The count, a dark, handsome man of about thirty, e3-ed me closely for some moments, in silence, before he said : "Signor, were you not in Savona, on the Riviera, in December, 1891 ?" "Yes, Signor." " You and a friend arrived on bicycles, — a gendarme made 3011 dismount, — j'ou set your wheels against a wall, non 6 vero, — is it not so ? " " Yes, certainly ; but how the deuce do you know all this ? " " Ah ! I was there. I passed on horse- back. I turned to look at your wheels and curious attire. You do not remem- ber me ; you were busy with the gen- darme but I remember you, — ah, yes! for such bicj'cles, with valises and Amer- ican riders, are not conmion in Savona." When we asked what brought him to the Northwest Territory, the count shrugged his shoulders and breathed a gentle sigh. " I was conmiander of the troops at Savona, and Monte Carlo, alas, was too near. I went there evenings after din- ner ; sometimes I won, but more often I lost, and, ecco ! i am here ! " Edmonton, although two hundred miles north of the main line of the Canadian Pacific railway, is older than any town in Alberta ; nearly a century ago the Hudson's Bay Company established a fort here ; it was made the distributing ao THE GREAT BRITISH NORTHWEST lERRITORY. point for all that vast rcj:;ioti exten(lin . "Why, my boy," said the blulV old captain, " yon are in the tropics. The north does not really bej^in until you reach the end ->f my beat at I'Ort MclMier- son, two thousand miles from here, on the McKenzie river." The first hundred miles of this lonj.? journey is made by waj^on to Atha!)asca landing, where bej^MUs a five-hutidred-mile ride on the Athabasca river ; then comes a porta}!^e of eighteen miles ; then a long voyage down .Slave river to, and through. Slave lake ; whence begins the last thou- sand miles of the journey down the Mc- Kenzie river. Captain Hell's si.\ty-one- ton screw-propeller boat makes but one vojage a year down the ISIcKeuzie to I'ort McPherson, that last, lonely outpost of the Hudson's Bay Company, within a day's walk of the Arctic circle. Mr. Mc- Cauley, the mayor of luhnontou, also proprietor of a liverj'-stable, in speaking of the six men living at Fort McPherson, said that the place is too lonely for a bachelor, and that all six were married. One of the six held out ft)r many years, but he, too, succumbed, a year ago, under romantic circumstances. He had been engaged for twelve years to a girl in Scotland. Captain Hell's steamer goes into winter quarters at lM)rt Simpson, in latitude six- ty live degrees, where the sun rises about ten o'clock, and setsabout two. Duringthe long arctic winter tin- captain atuusi's him- self stulling arctic birds, of wliirli he has a rare and interesting collection. His crew luuit deer, fish, cut wood, and kill time as best they can from the middle of August until the following June. Everj- m;in is allowed one hundiid pounds cacli of sugar and flour, in addition Lo wages. The oflicials at I"'ort Mcl'herson are al- lowed five h'l'idred jiouuds of flour a year jier man, — a fairly lil)eral allowance, con- sidering that in that region flour costs lliirty-five to forty cents a ])oiind. Dis- tances are so great, the difllculties of trans- porta'cion .so many, including long ])ort- ages over rocky ground, that, to carry a pound of freight from Athabasca landing to Fort McPher.son costs twent^'-tv, o cents. The Indians rarely indulge in the luxury of bread ; their diet consists mainly of moose and deer meat. Fifteen Indians will eat a nu)ose in a single night ; in the same time eight Indians eat a deer, that is, each num eats from twelve to sixteen ])ounds of meat within ten hours. Thej- eat until gorged, then .sleep, then, in an hour or two, get up and go again to the ■i!S#**'' gor til sun Diei o-.vi Dui the wlu stir uux im| ten I ly. SCENE ON WILLOW CREEK, NEAR MCLEOD. ■HIE GREAT liRniSH NOKIHWEST TERRITORY. n a ^irl in tito winter titudc- six- "isfs about I)iiiitij;tlK' luisi'sliiiu- icli lie has ion. His 1. and kill middle of le. Every •unds e.'iclj to wajj^es. Dii are al- our a year .nice, con- Ion r costs ind. Dis- s of trans- loiij;^ j)()it- ;o can-}' a 'a landing tvo cents, lie luxury nainly of 1 Indians lit ; in the deer, that Lo sixteen IS. They en, in an liu to the fleshpot, resume eating until again gorged, then sleep again, and so on un- til every vestige of the animal is con- sumed save the hide and hones. The fur- iJier nortii the warmer are the summers, owing to the greater length of the days. During the weeks of constant sunshine the Indians hask lazily in the open air; when the long, arctic wiii.cr begins they stir themselves, catch fish, deer, and moose, and, when gorged with meat, seci. im|)ervious to cohl. Some have tepees, tents made of musk-ox hiiles, the majori- ty, however, wrni) theuisilvc s in blankets a strange and interesting country ; all vegetation ceases at (ioo' Hope, l;ititude sixty-six degrees, and from that point on to h'ort Mcl'herson, two hundred and eighty miles iieaier the north pole, the country is indescribably desolate. The whole vast region is i)eopled by less than five hundred Indians and I'iskimos. At l'"orl Mci'hersou there is oiie sea.son when the sun is hidden for four consecu- tive weeks ; during that time light is ob- tained by buiuing coal -oil costing one dollar a gallon, and brushwood hauled by Indians from the south. As far north LAKR LOUISE, NEAR LAFFAN. and sleep out in the snow, even when the mercury registers sixty degrees below zero. Except in the case of some Scotch girl going to marr3' her lover. Captain Bell, on his annual trip to Fort McPherson, seldom has a passenger. When lie does have one, the cost of passage, not includ- ing meals, is cne hundred and thirteen dollars. From Fort jNIcPherson a trail-path .icross the mountains leads, in four days, to the Yukon river, the descent of which can be made to the coast in ten days. Thence are steamers to San Francisco. A trip to Alaska via this route takes the traveler through as Good Hope there is some vegetation ; the six weeks of constant summer sun gives out a cumtilative heat ; there is practically no night to let the earth cool, and potatoes and barley grow rapidly ; even wheat has been grown. The missionaries at Fort Providence, latitude sixty-one degrees, have produced wheat ; and in the Peace river valley, seven hundred miles north of Edmonton, (one thousand miles north of Montana), is a large field, growing twenty bushels of wheat to the acre. The Indians, who think themselves fortunate if they can get . little barley to pound with a wooden mallet and eat with moose meat, are, of 24 THE GREAT BRITISH NORTHWEST TERRITORY. ■■■^:-^«*w^-- ■■a!/.f' •• i'l! NEAR MCLEOD. course, in clover when they get real bread. Compared with their unsophisticated cousins on the McKenzie river, the In- dians in Alberta are quite up to the times. At one of their reservations, t\vent\' miles from Edmonton, I saw trim-looking log- houses, whitewashed and furnished with stoves and culinar}' utensils. There were tables and chairs ; and surrounding the houses were fields of waving grain which the Indians had planted, and which, at the time of our visit, the\' were ju.st beginning to harvest. While visiting one of these log-houses, Mr. McCaule\-, Edmonton's mayor, who was driving me, was surprised by a comely squaw stepping forward, and, without the slightest warning, throwing her arms about his neck and kissing him. ' ' Good gracious ! ' ' exclaimed his honor, blushing. ' ' What do 3'ou mean 1 ' ' The squaw was surprised at the may- or's surprise. "Wlu," she said, "are you not a missionary?" This in very good English, gravely, yet with an eye that seemed to twinkle. As I looked first at the blushing face of Ed- monton's mayor, then at the Indian witl; her almost Mongolian features, I came to the conclusion that a woman who cooks on a patented range, lives in a comforta- ble house, and kisses good-looking men, on the plea of mistaking them for mis- sionaries, is pretty well on the road to civilization, even if she is an Indian. Although two hundred miles north of Winnipeg, the cli'uate of Edmonton is not so cold in winter nor so hot in sum- mer. At times, during Januarj' and Feb- ruary, the two coldest months, the mer- cury goes forty, and even fift\'-seven degrees below zero ; forty degrees below, however, is the ordinarj' maximum of cold, and it frequently goes to forty de- grees abo\e, even in the dead of winter. There is no month in. which there are not more dajs with the niercurj' above, than da3S with the mercury below, zero. In .summer, the maximum heat is ninety de- grees, and the mean temperature is from seventy to eight}' degrees. In the prairie countr}^ two hundred miles to the sotitli, the mercury sometimes registers one hun- dred and ten degrees in the shade in sum- mer, and sixt3-seven degrees below zero in winter — extremes, the discomfort of which is aggravated bx' fierce winds, that in summer make one feel as though the flames of Hades were sweeping over the earth ; and in winter, as if the mercury had droi)ped out of the thermometer alto- gether. Being wooded, and sheltered by the Rocky mountains, the Edmonton dis- trict is not subject to these fierce winds, and is well adapted to mixed farming. In addi- tion to all sorts of grasses, gooseberries, currants, raspberries, strawberries, and similar small fruits grow well. As j'et, large fruits have not prospered, though it is thought not impossible that even these ma\' in time be made to succeed. Professor Satmdcrs has been conducting a series of experiments in grafting, with a view to producing crosses hardy enough to withstand the northwest winters. While we were in Edmonton word was brought that, on one of the trees sent from Ottawa by the professor, an apple had been discovered. The announcement created a sensation. All Edmonton turned out to the jard of Mr. Frank Oliver, where the lyf£ the as y the you you awa cou lucl shot mor futu Pa neat low, C( shin - on t from ;•.(, othe ■| buik TI}R GREAT nRITISH NORTHWEST TERRITORY. 25 ees below, ximum of forty de- of winter, lere are not ibove, than ,', zero. In i ninety de- tre is from the prairie ) the south, rs one hnn- ide in suni- belov'^ zero comfort of inds, that lough the