IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) A ''(, ^ wJo A ^ & ^ fc ^ LO I I.I 11.25 1^128 12.5 ■50 ™^™' IM^^B :: i;s IIIIIM 1.8 1.4 11.6 - 6" V] > s>' >.v ^"^ J 'y '>/ .« y /^ Photographic Sciences Corporation J3 WEST MAIN STREET WE9STER,N.Y. 14580 (71 signifie "A SUIVRE", le symbols ▼ signifie "FIN". Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre film^s A des taux de reduction diffArents. Lorsque le document est trop firand pour dtre raproduit en un seul cliche, il est filmi A partir de Tangle sup6rieur gauche, de gauche A droits, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'imagas nicessaire. Les diagrammes suivants iilustrent la mathode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 TH Trc SIX YEARS IX THE CANADIAN NORTH-WEST. \%~mr — *i O BY MONS. JEA]^ D'ARTIGUE. Tramlated from the French by L, C. Gorbett, Esq., B. A., mid Rev. S. Smith, B.D. HUNTER, ROSE AND COMPANY. 1882. Entered according to Act of the Parliament of the Dominion of Canada in the year one thousand eight himdred and eighty-two, by Jean D'Artigue, in the Office of the Minister of Agriculture. PREFACE. THIS Book, which I dedicate to the Canadian Public, is not a work of fiction, but is purely historical. In writing it, elegance of style has not been studied, but rather a simple relation of facts as they occur. It may be wanting in interest to the lover of imaginary adven- ture, but to those who love the truth, I trust it will be found sufficiently interesting to repay a perusal. My object in undertaking this woik is not to gain notoriety, but to furnish the Canadian Public with an account, not yet given by any writer, of the object of the organization of the North-West Mounted Police Force, the trials, privations, and adventures which they encoun- tered, and the results of the expedition. This book is divided into three parts, the first of which contains a history of the campaign of the North -West Mounted Police, in the year 1874, under command of Colonel French, and though it is short, it relates facts which should form a few pages of Canadian history and 28:uy iv Preface. being an eye-witness, I have simply stated the facts, leav- ing to the general public the task of deducing conclu- sions. The second part contains the history of our sojourn in the far North- West, and gives an account of the journeys made by myself over 7ast plains ; the first, undertaken to acquaint myself with the manr.ers and actions of the Indians in their primeval state, and the second, in dis- charge of official duty, and to study further the Indian character. The third part is an account of my return journey from Fort Saskatchewan via Saskatchewan and Red River, and Lakes Winnepeg, Superior, and Huron to Samia, and thence by rail to Quebec. This part will be found the most interesting of the three, and also the most useful to intending settlers in the North-West as it contains geo- graphical and agricultural information which will give an idea of the future of that region traversed by the Saskatchewan. CHAPTER T JL. Page. General State of Affairs in the North-West Terrikories previous to the year 1874 — Organization of the North-West Mounted Police Force — My* Enlistment in that Corps— The Apostle of Temperance- Military Life during oiur Stay at the New Fon, of Toronto 9 CHAPTER II. Our Departure from Toronto — Ideas of a Misanthrope about Civilization — The Northern Metropolis of the United States— St. Paul — The Red River Valley — Our First Camping Night on the Prairie — The Hunters of the Plains— Our arrival at Dufferin, opposite Emerson. 19 CHAPTER III. Dufferin in 1874— The Stampede — The Final Oiganization of the Mounted Police — The Apostle of Temperance again — A Sioux Scare '. 32 CHAPTER IV. Departure of Mounted Police from Dufferin — Desertion of Inspector Richer— Beginning of Hardships— The Mounted Police Trans- formed into Cart-drivers — A Modem Diogenes — Camping on Souris River^The Trial of Sub-constable P.— State of the Mounted Police on their arrival at Roche Perc^e 40 CHAPTER V. Report that the Mounted Police had been Massacred by the Sioux - Roche Perc^e- Church Services— The Division of Our Forces . . . . 52 VI Contents. CHAPTER VI. Pack. Departure of the Main Column from Roche Perc but this he was unable to do. I was going to call the guard, when seeing him shivering with cold, I took pity on him and allowed him to pass, laughing to myself at the thought of the merriment which would be produced by relating the story of his spending the night on the prairie in his night-shirt. Everything turned out as I expected, and my story was received with the uproarious laughter that brought yea from your quarters. * Zounds! ' said one, ' I understand now why this fellow wears a night- shirt ; it is to scare the Indians. See how cunning he is. If the Indians attack us, and are repelled, very well ; but if it happens to the contrary, I would not give much for our scalps, — but he, on account of his night-shirt, will be looked upon as the Great Manitou of the whites and will remain unmolested.' Look over there ! Don Quixotte is on sentry ; no better selection could be made after the Six Years in the Cvina'Ulaiu3. As no wood could be found in the neighbourhood , the Ooramissioner ordered us to take with us a sufficient 8 42 Six Years in the Canadian North-West quantity of wood to last two days. Proceeding on our way, we at times came across large quantities of buffalo bones, which gave us an idea of the immense slaughter of these animals tliat must have occurred there in former years, and was then being carried on in the neighbour- hood of the Rocky Mountains, to which locality they had been drivcL ^^^ ^ plain, which we were crossing, although very fertile, \. at that time almost entirely without water, the meadow lands, usually covered with a few inches, being dried up. Happily, at night, we came to one of these meadows, the centre of which contained enough water, such as it was, to keep the men from suf- fering with thirst, but the horses and cattle had to do without. I say such as it was, — for after being taken from the hole dug to receive it, and strained, it was still as black as ink. The next morning at eleven o'clock, we reached Pem- bina Mountain Depot, where we found water in abun- dance. The last two days had been hard enough on the men, but still more so on the horses and cattle which had suffered greatly from want of water. We naturally ex- pected to rest there a day or two ; but the Commissioner decided that the march should be resumed immediately after dinner. Probably he compared himself to conquerors like Alexander and Caesar, and wanted to leave in the shade the marches of these illustrious men. "We reached the banks of the Pembina river, at this place only about fifteen feet wide. A bridge had been thrown across it some years before, but it was now in Six Years in the Canadian North- West 43 our igh such a wretched condition, we thought it unsafe to cross before the bridge was re-constructed. A party of men was therefore detailed to do this work, and also, to im- prove the road up the opposite bank. This done, we crossed the river in the evening, and in ascending the bank, we found the oxen of great service. Taking a yoke of them in front of the horses, we would hook the chain in the end of the waggon-tongue, and with this double team, take the loads up the steep bank very easily. At sunset, we camped about five miles further on. During the whole night, our half-breeds kept coming into camp with their carts. This shows the difficulty they encoun- tered in climbing the river bank. In my travels in the North- West, I noticed that even the smallest streams have very high banks, which seems to me to prove that they once carried a much greater quantity of water than they now do. In rivers, like the Pembina, which do not rise among mountains, covered with eternal snows, these large bodies of water could only be produced by very abundant rains. But as such abun- dant rains are only to be met with in very warm coun- tries, we would naturally conclude that there has been a time when the climate in that section was much more mild than it is now. Hitherto we had passed through plains that were very fertile ; but we were now in a region that was quite the contrary, and the oats, which we had brought with us, being now consumed, our horses were left in a sad plight for want of sufficient provender. Besides this, many of 44 Six Years in the Canadian North- West. the horses were already tired out, and we therefore ex- pected we would rest at least two or three days, to give them time to recruit. But Colonel French not only gave orders that wc should Qiarch at once, but inflicted upon us an indignity which took from us all the pride we felt in being members of the Mounted Police. The reason why the half-breeds were so late in reaching camp every night, was that each of them had to drive four carts ; and in order to remedy this, the Commissioner gave orders that each division should provide a certain number of men to assist them. It is useless to mention how we greeted such an order, and I believe had we not been a long distance from any settlement, the Colonel would have had to make the expedition alone. What military commander, who respects his men and wants to be re- spected by theii-, would have thought (I do not say dare) to have placed them on the same footing as those who worked for mercenary m( tives. The members of the Mounted Police had sworn to keep the British flag un- stained ; while the half-breeds had only engaged to work for so many dollars a month. No comparison could, there- fore, be made between us ; and it was more than discour- aging, on the morning of the loth to see some of our men, in their uniforms, driving oxen with sticks. And yet, notwithstanding my disgust, I could not help being some- what interested and amused when, the next morning, it fell to my lot to drive a train of these carts. Being a new hand at the work, the foreman of the half-breeds very kindly harnessed my oxen, and arranged them in order Six Years in the Canadicm North-'West 45 for starting, the strongest ox in front, the next strongest tied to the back of the first one's cart, and the weakest one behind and that tied to the second cart. On starting we received three biscuits each, on which to make our noonday meal, it being expected that we could not keep up with the main column, and be able to take our dinner with them. I would here like to describe the noise made by the carts, but words fail me. It must be heard to be under- stood. A den of wild beasts cannot be compared with it in hideousness. Combine all the discordant sounds ever heard in Ontario and they cannot produce anything so honid as a train of Red River carts. At each turn of the wheel, the}'^ run up and down all the notes of the scale in one continuous screech, without sounding dis- tinctly any note or giving one harmonious sound. And this unearthly discord is so loud, that a train of carts, coming towards you can be heard long before they are seen. We travelled a long distance that day, and the waggons going faster than our carts, they were entirely out of our sight at nightfall ; our oxen being tired out, we were obliged to camp out of sight of the camp fires of our comrades; and not only this, but our provisions and blankets beinor on the wagorons of the main column, we had to lie down supperless on the bare ground, and in that manner pass the night. In such circumstances as these, one appreciates the society of a man who preserves, through every vicissitude of life, his habitual philosophy. Among us was one 46 Six Years in tJie Canadian North- West. whose indifference to hardship contrasted greatly with the dissatisfaction and grumbling of his companions. " My friends," said he at last, " you do nothing but grum- ble, now against the Government, and then the Com- missioner, but you should remember we were prepared for this before leaving Toronto, If my memory serves me rightly, the Colonel told us then that wo might at times, be without food for two or three days at a time, and have to camp on the open prairie with nothing but the canopy of heaven for covering ; and he added that if any of us were not willing to face those hardships and probably many others, we might return to our homes. Of what do you complain then ? " " We complain," said one more touchy than the rest, " of having to drive ox- carts." " Do you think then," replied our modem Diogenes, " that it is not preferable to perform the duties of an ox-driver than to sleep in the open air, and be several days without food ? If you do, I am not of your opinion." " It seems to me," said I, " that you see only one side of the question ; you forget that if the Sioux were in the neighbourhood, they could easily get the better of us, and take possession of the oxen aud carts that are scattered along the road for several miles." " I don't forget that either," said he, " but on hearing the Commissioner speak about the privations to be endured should we not have expected dangers as well, and all the more inevitable too since we were to travel through Indian Territories ! Let us hope that we shall not find ourselves in more critical circumstances than at present." wM Six Years in tlie Caimdian Noith-Wcst. 47 These judicious observations had the effect of reconcil- ing us to our situation, if one can judge from the sonorous snores which followed. For my part, the remembrance of our proximity to the Sioux Territory, and especially the late massacres perpetrated by those savages, prevented me from sleeping. But at that season of the year a night quickly passes, and when morning dawned, seeing that no one wished to rise, I harnessed my oxen and set out again, hoping to overtake the main column before they broke up camp. But my designs were frustrated, and I found the camp deserted, the want of water having obliged them to set out early. Increasing the pace of my oxen I continued to advance, and then began in reality the hardships of privation. I was all day consumed by a thii-st that all the ravines which I crossed could not quench. When night came two of my oxen were tired out. What was I to do ? Beat them unmercifully as the half-breeds did till they would fall ? I had not sunk to such a degree of cruelty. I chose the wisest course, set them at liberty, and with the third proceeded as fast as pcr>sible on my journey. About eleven o'clock the sight of deserted waggons proved that I was not far from the camp, though I could not as yet see their fires. Very soon, however, I was arrested by the usual challenge : " Who comes there ? " "A famished man," I replied, and the sentry allowed me to pass without further explana- tion. They had located their camp in a valley, on the banks of a small brook. The men were lying around the camp 48 Six Years in iheTlanadian North-West. fires, being too fatigued to set up the tents. It mattered very little to me where I slept, the main point being to get something to eat from the kettles which remained near the half -extinguished fires. My search was at first fruitless, and I visited no less than five divisions before finding provisions at the sixth. Stealing my way over the sleeping men, I found a large kettle of cooked meat, a box of bread, and a kettle of tea. Seated on the ground, with the meat between my knees, the bread on one side, and the tea on the other, I made a meal that only a hearty man, having been two days without food, could dispose of. In fact, it was nearly daylight when I had fully satisfied my appetite, and, making my way to my own division, I climbed into a waggon and was soon fast asleep. A little after sunrise the column resumed its march, notwithstanding the fact that a large number of carts were still miles behind. Having done more than my share of ox-driving I was allowed to follow my waggon on foot, I say on foot, and a large number of the men were doing the same ; for the Commissioner, on account of the wretched condition of the horses, had ordered that one of the two men accompanjdng every waggon should walk while the other drove ; and, to be certain that his orders were carried out, the Colonel would ride, once in a while, from front to rear and back. That morning, as he was making his fii*st round, he noticed a waggon with only the driver in sight. He at once rode up and asked the driver who was his comrade and where he was. " Constable S., Six Years in the Canadian North- West. 49 sir," said the driver, " and he is lying inside of the wag- gon." " What ! " said the Colonel, " a constable the first to break my commands ! Come down at once," said he to Constable S., " or I will put you under arrest," " I don't care what you do," answered Constable S., " I joined a mounted police and not &foot one, and, as I don't feel very well to-day, I must ride on something, a horse or a wag- gon, I don't care which." Upon this rebuke, the Commis- sioner rode away ; a proof that he was fast losing his in- riuence over the men. In the evening of the following day we reached the Souris river, a tributary of the Assiniboine. Since Duf- ferin, it was the most favourable place to camp that we had met. Wood, water and grass were abundant, and the Commissioner decided we should remain there two days. Two reasons rendered this halt necessary : first, many of the horses were so exhausted that they were unable to proceed ; and second, because the carts were still far be- hind, and a great number of them had to be repaired. Though the next day was Sunday the men were kept busy, washing themselves and their clothes, and looking after the horses. On Monday, the usual monotony of the camp life was dis- turbed by the report that the Sioux were follow •n'^j us, though without daring to attack. The originator ol inis re- port was Sub-constable P., who had been in charge of a number of sick horses. As he could not travel so fast as t'r e main body he found himself the day previous to our arrival at the Souris river, some thirty miles behind, and during 50 Six Years in the CanadUin Kortli- West. the (lay one of the sick horses fell to rise no more. What could he do ? Certainly his orders were to remain there until some one was sent to his rescue. But then, he was alone, unprotected and without provisions. So he con- cluded the best thing to do was to shoot the poor dying brute, and proceed on his journey. Being well aware that if he told what he had done the Commissioner would not only fine him, but make him pay about two hundred dollars for the horse, he declared with great earnestness that he had been atuicked by five Sioux, and that, making a vigorous resistance, he won the day, losing nothing but one horse which was killed in the fight. Every one was convinced that his story was a fabrication but nobo' could prove it. On Tuesday the whole column resumed the march, the last of the carts having arrived in camp sometime during the previous night ; and finally on Friday, the 24th of July, we arrived at Ex)che Perc^. But what a change since our departure from Dufferin ! We had set out full of hope, mounted on excellent horses, accompanied by waggons carrying our supplies, and followed by carts laden with the same, but our hopes were doomed to bit- ter disappointment. No romantic incidents occurred; no encounter with the Indians and the whiskey-traders, and on our arrival at Bx)che Perc^e the colunm resembled a routed army corps. For a distance of several miles the road was strewed with broken carts, and horses and oxen overcome with hunger and fatigue. This was the natural result of the Commissioner's blunder before leaving Dufie- Six Years in the Canadian N orth-West. 51 hat lere was ■con- :ing rin, in ordering us to carry our supplies. During the whole of Saturday, horses and oxen which had been un- able to keep up to the column, continued to arrive in a deplorable condition. Was it in this manner that the Canadian Government had intended the Mounted Police to be managed and directed ? Certainly not ! Could Colonel French have done better than he did ? Certainly yes ! for although it is always a difficult matter to judge fairly the conduct of a commander-in-chief, I think I can safely say, and hope to prove it farther on, that other officers of our force could have done I etter than he. CHAPTER V. Report that the Mounted Police had been Massacred by the Sioux— Roche Terete— Church Services — The Division of Our Forces. SATURDAY evening, following our arrival at Roche Perc^e, we were overtaken by Dr. N. and Con- stable C. who had left Dufferin a week after we did. They brought the news that when they left, a report was in circulation through the Ameiican newspapers, that the Mounted Police had been exterminated by the Sioux. This report originated from desei-ters, who had left us at DufferiD, and, having gone across the lines, had given as reasons for deserting, that they were badly treated, and that they did not wish to lose their scalps in the pro- jected expedition against the whiskey traders. One can easily conceive that the Americans, who are continually at war with their own Indians, would have been glad to see our expedition miscarry. Therefore, the reports of the deserters were grossly exaggerated by the American papers which, having summed up the various difficulties that we would have to overcome, some of them concluded that we would be unsuccesful, and others that we were already exterminated. The Canadian public, considering the suspicious origin of these stories, pifb very little faith Six Years in the Canadian North-West. 53 in them. But, later on, great uneasiness was felt through the country, when it became known that the road taken by the Mounted Police was through Sioux territory, and along the international boundary. Prayers for us were said in some Canadian churches, and some leading minds went so far as to advocate the organization of a corps of volunteers to avenge us. But this project was never carried into effect ; for, as soon as we arrived at Roche Perc^e, the Commissioner sent despatches to the Government, announcing our arrival there in good health and spirits. The column was encamped on the banks of the Souris River, in a circular valley surrounded on almost every side by a range of hills some thirty to forty feet in height. Wood, water and grass were abundant, and coal also could be gathered on the right bank of the river. The quality of this coal was tested by our blacksmiths who used it during our stay there. Although this coal, on account of its friability, is not likely to be exported any great dis- tance, it will nevertheless be a great boon for the settlers in that region, where wood will soon be scarce. On our right, and about half a mile from the camp, stood Roche Percee, a pierced rock, as its name indicates. Seen from a distance, one would take ".t for a statue, whose arms rested on two adjacent supports. An isolated rock, in the midst of a plain, will naturally attract the attention of a traveller : and in company with some of my comrades, 1 went to visit this one, which is covered with hieroglyphic characters, indecipherable for us, but 54 Six Years in the Canadian North-West. doubtlessly representing memorable events that once took place in that country. The third day after our arrival being a Sunday, and, as everybody is aware, the Sabbath day being consecrated in the British Dominions to rest and prayer, we were that morning ordered to get ready for Church parade. This was the first divine service held since our departure from Dufl'erin, As the Mounted Police was composed of men belonging to different denominations, and there being no chaplain attached to the corps, I was wondering who would act in their stead. But I soon heard that, under such circumstances, it was the duty of oflRcers to act in the place of ministers of the gospel. At ten o'clock a.m. as the six divisions stood ready for orders, Colonel French, who was an Episcopalian, called fo^ the men that belonged to his denomination, and Roman Catholics, Methodist;S, and Presbyterians were called for, in like manner by officers of their respective creeds. Some de- nominations held their meetings on the hills, others in the valley. And it was a grand sight to see 300 men standing in the wilderness, several hundred miles from civilization, giving thanks, in different manners, and of- fering prayer to their Creator. Although several thou- sand miles separated us from our friends in the other pro- vinces, our thoughts and hearte were with theirs, and their prayers and ours were of like nature, and had in view our preservation and the success of the expedition. The plan of the campaign furnished to the Commis- sioner by the Government at the time of our organization Six Years in the Canadian North-West. 55 was the following : — We were to proceed from Dufferin as far as the junction of the rivers Bow and Belly, where the whiskey traders were said to congregate, destroy their forts and leave in that section a sufficient number of m en to put an end to the massacres and the whiskey traf- fic. But, about the time of our departure from Dufferin, Colonel French received new instructions from the Gov- ernment, slightly altering the above plan. After demol- ishing the whiskey traders' forts, half of the column was to proceed to Ijldmonton, and the other half to retrace their steps homeward. The junction of the above rivers, is about 450 miles dis- tant from Roche Percee ; and between these two localities lay v£ist plains almost destitute of water, wood and grass. At that time, there was no cart road connecting Roche Percee and the junction of these rivers, and the latter place was almost unknown to even the fui traders. Edmon- ton is about 200 miles further on from the junction ; and part of this distance had also to be travelled wiiliout any road to guide us. Adding the two preceding distances, we find that half of our corps hr T still to travel about 650 miles before reaching its destination, and the other half 450 miles, and then return homeward. The three divisions intended for Edmonton, were ex- pected to take with them all the supplies we had brought from Dufiierin. Now, if we take into consideration the critical st>ate to which the horses and oxen had been re- duced by the journey from Dufferin to Roche Percee, a distance of only 270 rniles, any one could see that it would 56 Six Years in the Canadian North- West. be impossible for us to tako our supplies via the junction. But then how were the three divisions intended for Ed- monton to be without supplies ? Colonel French was thus placed in a very awkward predicament. He could now see plainly the folly of his management in the outset ; neither horses nor men could be hired at Roche Perc^e, and even the fresh horses that we expected from Fort Ellice were not forthcoming ; Sub-inspector S., who was to have brought them, came himself and reported that he had been obliged to send the horses he had to Winnipeg for fresh supplies. Under these circumstances, the Com- missioner adopted the most unreasonable and incredible plan that ever originated in any man's brain — placing in the hands of Inspector Jarvis a dozen good men of his own division, with instructions to proceed to Edmonton, via Fort Ellice, with twenty-four waggons, fifty -four carts, iifty-five of the weakest horses, a large number of oxen, and a herd of cows and calves. A dozen half-breeds were also given him to assist in driving the carts ; and besides the above, he was instructed to take as far as Fort Ellice, five or six sick men and two or three waggons. As for myself, although a member of B Division, for some reason never made kn'^wn to me, I was transferred to Inspector Jarvis' con'/mand. Having only sick horses, or horses reduced to mere skeletons, and considering we were going via Fort Ellice, and thus would have to travel at least nine hundred miles before reaching our destination, was it leasonable on the part of Colonel French, to expect us to reach Edmonton Six Years in the Canadian North-West. 57 before the coming winter ? For my part, I do not think he expected for a moment that we would be able to go any farther than Fort Ellice, a distance of 130 miles from Roche Perc^e. But if he did, he thereby tacitly acknow- ledged that Inspector Jarvis was better able than he to direct the expedition. For travelling 900 miles with sick horses and heavy waggons was a very different thing from travelling 270 miles with horses that were at least in good condition at the outset. But, notwithstand- ing all these disadvantages, we shall see, later on, how successfully Inspector Jarvis conducted his party to their destination. CHAPTER VI. Departure of the Main Colnmn from Roche Perc^e— The Templar's Castles in the Air Vanish— Departure of Our Party for Fort Ellice— A Change for the Better— The Glorious Death of a Sioux Brave —A Horrible Dream. ON THE 29th of July, the main column resumed its march under the command of the Commis- sioner, and on reaching the plains, they left the inter- national boundary line, taking a north-western course towards the junction. We will now leave, for a while, these men, who were destined to encounter hardships unsurpassed in the history of man, and we will return to the little party, under the command of inspector Jarvis, still encamped at Roche Perc^. I learned from some of the men that the Apostle of Temperance was one of our party ; and, wishing to know what he now thought of the great mission of the Mounted Police, I was very anxious to see him. But I had some difticulty in finding him ; nobody could tell me where he was. Giving up the search, 1 was returning to my quarters, when seated on a hill that faces Roche Perc^e, I beheld a member of the Mounted Police who appeared very much absorbed in thought. I went up to him, and, sure enough, he was the man I sought. " Well Six Years in the Canadian North-West. 59 my friend," said I, " I am very glad to hear that you are going with us to Edmonton." But, seeing that he took no notice of my remark, J shook him, shouting at this time : " Ha ! father of the braves, are you asleep." He lifted up his eyes, giving me a reproachful look, as much as to say : " how dare you disturb my reveries," and sorry to have gone so far, I was about to apologize for the liberty I had taken, when he now seemed to realize that no offence was intended, for his face assumed a mild appearance, and, as an answer to my enquiiy, said: " would to God I had never seen this day." " Why, what is the matter with you ? " said I. " Why do you ask me that question ? " said he, " don't you know as well as I ? Have you not also been detached from the main column, where glory awaited us, to go, not to Edmonton, for we can never reach there, but to Fort Ellice, which place we may reach, but never pass, at least this year '. " " But then," said I, " if we did not go, other men would Lave to go in our stead." " All I have to say is this," said he, " if the corps had been well directed, it would not have been necessary to send this detatchment to Ellice. All this is the result of having taken with us our supplies. Now the evil is without remedy, and if the whiskey tradeij are as well organized as they are said to be, the expedition will surely prove a failure." This said, the templar resumed his thoughtful appearance, heedless of my presence, I therefore returned to the camp, reflect- ing on what a change had come over this man in so short a time. On our first meeting in the cars, he was full of 60 Six Years in the Canadian NorUi- West. hope, and possessed a fine appearance ; but now he was completely discouraged ; his castles in the air had van- ished, and his person displayed the utmost neglect." "What is the cause of all this," thought I, and I found the answer in the mismanagement of our commander-in- chief. The day after the main column left for their destina- tion, we set out for Fort EUice. Before us was the Souris River which we had to cross. Our horses were too weak to draw the waggons up the bank, but we had four yoke of oxen in pretty fair condition, and, hitching them to the waggons, we were soon safely across. We had to go a day's journey without a road, but we were fortunate in having a half-breed who had come from Fort Ellice, as guide, and resigning ourselves to his direction, we reached the road in safety. The country that lies between Roche Perc^e and Fort EUice is not equal in fertility to the Red River Valley. Wood and grass are not always plentiful, and water is also scarce in summer time. To travel in such a country under these disadvantages and labouring under the un- favourable circumatances in which we were then, requii-ed a leader of sound judgment, and great ability. And such a man we had in Inspector Jarvis. He was as fond of short marches as Colonel French was of long ones ; and he was right ; for the proverb, " slow but sure" is always the safest to follow in long marches. Taking advantage of the best camping places to be found, Inspector Jarvis vould order a halt, fo>ar or five times a day in order to Six Years in V>3, Canadian North-West. 61 give the horses and oxen time to feed. And the result of such a course was soon felt ; the animals began to recover i-apidly, and even most of the sick men were soon able to resume their duties. I must add that since we were de- tatched from the main column, we were living together like a family. No more of this quasi-discipline ; no more days without food. We performed our duties not only for our country's sake, but to please our commander. Every heart was beating for Inspector Jarvis, and if he had asked us to follow him, even to the North Pole, not one of us would have refused. After a week's march, we reached Pipestone Creek whose banks are high and steep. The crossing presented serious difficulties ; but officers and men worked so man- fully, that in two hours, waggons and carts were on the other side. — We were then within two davs march of Fort Ellice. After travelling a few miles from the creek, I saw, on the left hand side of the road, something resembling a tombstone, surrounded by a fence. I enquired of our guide what it waa " What you see," said he, " is the grave of a famous Sioux warrior. His grandfather and his father, for a long time, waged war with the United States. For some time, they were victorious ; but, at length, they and their tribe were completely overcome, and, with the exception of the children who were too young to take any part in the war, not one of the trib^ was left alive. 62 Six Years in tlie Canadian North-West. " The warrior whose grave you see was then but a child. He resolved to die ; he could not survive the ruin of his family. Suicide was vrithin his reach, but that unnatural feature of civilization is unknown among the Indians. He determined to die fighting, but, as his tender years would not allow him to carry arms, on the ashes of his forefathers, he swore eternal enmity to the American troops, and to fight them as soon as he would be old enough to do so. That time came at last. He summoned to a meeting, the few survivors of his tribe, and, in a val- iant speech, recalled to their minds the evils inflicted on their forefathers and their glorious resistance. ' For my part,' said he at the conclusion of his harangue, ' I am resolved to die, but to die in avenging our tribe and my family.' This patriotic address received unanimous ap- proval. The hearers resolved to share the fortunes of the speaker and elected him chief. And they had not long to wait before meeting a company of American soldiers whom they attacked with great impetuosity. Their un- foreseen attack disconcerted the soldiers at first, but see- ing ver)'^ soon the small number they had to deal with, they manfully stood their ground, and their discipline soon gave them the advantage. At last, every Indian succumbed but the chief, who stood at the entrance of a forest, with his back to a tree, fighting with that energy that only despair can give. A circle of steel is gradually surrounding him ; he sees now that he is going to be taken prisoner, and this is what he dreads, — not death. Flight is still possible, and quickly gathering the arrows Six Years in tJie Canadian North-West 63 of the dead warriors lying around him, he retreated into the forest, resolved on prolonging the unequal contest. He let fly his arrows, which never miased their mark, but at last, he was driven out of the wood, and had no other refuge than the bare plain. The soldiers were re- duced to two, but these pursued, resolving to avenge the death of their comrades. After a pursuit of two days, the Indian hides himself in a small thicket ; with his bow bent, he is ready to let fly the two arrows which will give him the victory. But the stratagem is guessed by the two soldiers who have, by this time, learned to be careful — crawling through the grass, one of them got within range, and discharged his rifle. The ball pierced the breast of the savage who, brandishing his tomahawk, bounded toward the enemy. But the wound proved to be mortal, and before reaching his enemy, he fell, to rise no more. So much courage disarmed the rage of the soldiers. They lavished their utmost care upon the Sioux brave, but all in vain, his spirit had already taken its flight, to join his forefathers in the happy hunting grounds." This narrative was related with such earnestness, that I naturally concluded that the tales written by Cooper and other novelists, might not be exaggerated. I there- fore longed to meet some Indians that I might induce them to relate their heroic actions. My wish was soon to be gratified, for I learned from our guide that there were several Sioux families in the neighbourhood of Fort Ellice, — refugees from the United States. Several years 64 Six Years in the Canadian North- West. before, these Indians had perpetrated massacres in the State of Minnesota, and in danger of being taken by the American soldiers, they had retreated to Canadian terri- tory where protection was afforded them, and, they were assured, would be afforded them, as long as they continued in peace. As we were now approaching the neighbourhood of these Indians, Inspector Jarvis recommended the sentries to be carefully on their watch, and the others to sleep with their arms loaded. After leaving Roche Perc^, I did not sleep in the tents with the other men, preferring to sleep outside, under a waggon or a tree. And that night, after spreading my blankets under a waggon, I laid down, placing my loaded carabine on my right side, and my re- volver on my left. Pondering for a while on the narra- tive I had heard from the guide, I, at last, went to sleep, and began to dream. I dreamed that we were encamped where we were in reality ; that I was under a waggon, and I saw Indians crawling like snakes through the grass and coming towards the camp. Taking hold of my carabine, I tried to rise, but in vain, I could not move. I then at- tempted to shout, but could ^ve no utterance. I was in great agony ,which was increasing as the Indians were get- ting nearer and nearer. Already I could see their painted faces, their naked breasts, and their heads adorned with hair and quills. Wh^i within fifty yards of the camp they suddenly made a bound which was followed by fearful yells that no pen can describe. Death stared me in the face. I collected all my strength to rise, and Six Years in the Canadian North- West. 65 this time succeeded so well, that I fell back senseless to the ground, having knocked my head against the axle of the waggon. When my senses returned. I was still lying on my back, the carabine grasped in my right hand, and the revolver in my left. Everything was still with the exception of the horses which were tied to the waggons and eating the grass we had mowed for them the night before. TJiis was only a dream, but of such a horrible nature, I did not care for a recurrence of it. In the afternoon of the next day, we reached Fort Ellice, seeing here the first human habitation which we had met since we left Dufferin. I shall give a brief description of this place in the following chapter. CHAPTER VII. Fort Ellis — Our Departure — The Kegion between Qu'Appelle River and the South Saskatchewan — Our Arrival at Carleton — The uneven Course of Love. FORT Ellice is a Hudson Bay Company's trading j. ost, situated on the right shore of the Assiniboine River. It is composed of a few wooden buildings inha- bited by the Company's employees, and surrounded by a wooden palisade. For many miles around this fort, the land is not very fertile, and, at the time of our arrival there, the grass was very scarce in that immediate neigh- bourhood. It was therefore deemed necessary to send the horses and cattle about five miles away where the grass was plentiful. Around that fort, stood several wigwams belonging to the tribe above mentioned. But the Indians were so effeminate, one would never have thought that they were of the same nation that had a few years before committed such depredations in the State of Minnesota. During our stay at Fort Ellice they did nothing but en- cumber our camp, with their squaws and papooses, and devour the remains of our meals. On the 20th of August, after having enjoyed a week's rest, we resumed our march, leaving some waggons, and a few of the weakest horses at Fort Ellice. ^e were then Six Years in the Canadian North- West. 67 about 750 miles distant from Edmonton. Under the cir- cumstances in which we were, rendered all the more critical by the approach of winter and the bad state of the road, one would think it almost impossible for us to reach that place before winter set in. But the facility with which we had traversed the distance from Roche Perc^e to Fort Ellice, led us to hope that, under the direction of Inspector Jarvis, every obstacle would be surmounted. Two hours of march brought us to the River Qu'Ap- pelle, a tributary of the Assiniboine. Here we met with our former difficulties in crossing rivers and surmounting them in the same manner. After the crossing was effected, although it was yet early in the afternoon, the Inspector decided to advance no further, convinced that a more favourable place to camp could not be found for several miles. After leaving QuAppelle, the only impoiiiant river which our road would cross, was the South Saskatchewan from which we were 350 miles distant. On the plains of the Souris it would have been easy to travel that dis- tance, but one cannot traverse the region situated between Qu'Appelle and the South Saskatchewan without encoun- tering serious difficulties. In summer time, water is hard to be found, wood is scarce in consequence of prairie fires, and grass grows plentifully only on the marshy grounds. After leaving Fort Elljce, Inspector Jarvis was our guide, he having been to Edmonton the previous year. And his knowing the road, and the most favourable places for 68 Six Years in the Canadian North- West. camping, inspired us with entire confidence in him. In traversing this somewhat barren region, we sometimes had to carry with us a sufficient quantity of water to quench our thii-st, sometimes wood for our fires, and some- times even both, always camping were grass was most plentiful. During our journey the Sioux of Ellice were often the theme of our conversation. " For Sioux," said a sub con- stable one day, " they seem to be veiy cowardly." " The word cowardly is not expressive enough," said the Apostle of Temperance, " if all the Indians resemble them, I tell you frankly that I would not be afraid to meet a score of such braves." As for the half-breeds they were of a dif- ferent opinion. They declared that their forefathers had suffered a great deal at the hands of the Sioux, and that to judge rightly of their character, it was necessary to see them engaged in a battle. The most perfect harmony never ceased to prevail in our ranks, officers and men were equal to the situation, and felt mutual dependence upon each other. Often obliged to make forced marches, in order to reach .suitable camping places, some of us would be left far behind, our horses giving out, but the men who reached the camping ground first would hasten back with their teams to help the others in. After a two weeks' march we reached Touchwood Hills, which lay about half-way between Fort Ellice and the South Saskatch wan. On entering the valley of this river, the country began to improve very much ; grass Six years in the Canadian North-West. 69 In especially became abundant and accordingly we marched more rapidly, looking forward to reaching the banks of the river, which we succeeded in doing in one week. Here we camped by the side of a band of Cree Indians who were going: to hunt buffaloes. A f eny was at our dis- posal to cross this river, but it being Saturday evening, we had to wait till Monday before ferrying our horses, waggons, and carts across. This delay was very annoying to Inspector Jarvis, for it was then September, and dur- ing this month a snow storm invariably arises in those regions, which sometimes lasts for a week. This was what we dreaded the most on account of the horses which were exhausted by our long march. By Wednesday morning we had everything across the river, and were ready to resume our march. We were then eighteen miles distant from Fort Carleton, a Hudson Bay Company's trading post on the north bi-anch of the Saskatchewan River, which place we hoped to reach before the storm, and there find shelter for our horses. But in the afternoon a freezing north-west wind, accompanied by rain, began to blow with violence, and it was impossible to go any farther that day. For- tunately we found a place to camp well sheltered by woods. The next morning the weather was clear and mag- nificent, and we set out again for Fort Carleton, which we reached in the evening. But we had not to wait long for the storm. The next morning the snow fell in large Hakes, and we hastened to get the horses into the stables of the fort. If we had been detained two days later the \ ■ Ai 70 Six years in tlie Canadian North- West. storm would have surprised us on the prairie ; we would have suffered very much and have lost our horses. At that time, Carleton was composed of the Hudson Bay Company Fort, five or six houses inhabited by half- breeds, and a dozen Indian wigwams on the neighbouring hills. The latter were going to have their " pow-wow" during our stay ; but as I will have to describe similar scenes further on in our story, I will omit any further mention of this one. During our stay here, nothing further of importance happened until the moment of our departure, when a ro- mantic scene took place in our camp. A sub-constable had fallen in love with an Indian maiden. This did not at all please the Apostle of Temperance who accosttd me with intense emotion, saying ; "I can't tolerate such a scandal. How I repent having enlisted in the Mounted Police." " What scandal," said I, " I don't understand you." " Do you not know," said he, that Sub-constable V. has become enamoured of an Uskinik squaw ? He wants, at any cost, to take her to Edmonton and marry her. Did you ever hear of such a disgrace ? " "I don't under- stand what there is about that to displease you," said I, *' For my part, I don't see any inconvenience in her coming with us, if she will agree to be our cook." '* Foolish man," said the Apostle of Temperance, walking away, »' you are making a jest of what, to me, is a serious mat- ter. If he takes her along, I shall go no farther." — and, in truth, we were all opposed to the project of the un- happy sub-constable. Approaching the camp I heard bui an( lo^ we coi col at Six years in the Canadian North-West. 71 bursts of laughter, and, entering, I wiinessed a touching and somewhat romantic scene. The poor broken-hearted lover was embracing his fiancee, bidding her a last fare- well. But alas ! for the constancy of human hearts Sub- constable V. soon proved the adage : " Hot love is soon cold," and his cheerful demeanour showed that with him, at least, *' out of sight" meant " out of mind." . ^1 CHAPTER VIII. My First Attempt to Paddle a Canoe — Ditiiculties of the Journey increasing — Our Arrival at Victoria— Making Corduroy Roada— Our Arrival at Ed- monton — The yidssitadefl of the Main Colunm D A Constable's Strange Request —Reaching the Junction, and the Disappointment that followed — New Orders from the Government— The Forces directed by Colonel McLeod — Return of the Conuni«sioner to Duff erin. AFTER the crossing of the North Saskatchewan, which lasted thijpe days, had been effected, and pre- parations made for starting the next morning, we dis- covered that an ox had been left on the opposite shore. I was the cause of this n^lect, for, two days previous to crossing of the river, I had been ordered to see that the ox-teams were safely taken over on the ferry. Therefom it was without a murmur that I received the order from Inspector Jarvis, to have the ox secured by daylight. But a difficulty presented itself. How could I get across the river which, at that place, is about 350 yards wide ? It is true there were canoes at my disposal, but I had never handled a paddle, ao I was in great perplexit^;', as no time could be lost, for, as I said before, we wanted to make an early start After thinking for a while v/hat course to pursue, I remembered hearing one of our half- breeds say that he had been for a number of years in the service of the Hudson Bay Company, whose employees Six Years in the Canadian North- West. 78 it is well known, travel a good deal with boats when trading with the Indians. So concluding that he could help me in my difficulty, I went directly to him and pre- sented my request, which was well received, and he said that, at any time, he was at my disposal. I, therefore, went back to my camping quarters, thinking no more about the difficulty of crossing the river, but of finding the ox in the morning, which, by that time, might be two or three miles away. On this account, I passed a sleepless night ; and getting up at two o'clock in the morning, I went to wake the half-breed, thinking we had now no time to spare. But he was too sleepy to be disturbed at that early hour, and he said that day-light was quite early enough to start. Money, they say, will do anything in this world ; I tried it with him, offering him five dollars, and a blanket besides ; but they had no efiect on him. Therefore, trusting to my swimming attainments in case of need, and being a very bright moonlight night, I made for the river, jumped into the best canoe I could find, and pushed away from the shore. My bold attempt was good, 80 far as it went, but in a second, the current caught the bow of the canoe, and I found myself floating rapidly down stream, notwithstanding my utmost efforts to re- turn to shore. Nothing daunted, I jumped into the water, and swam back to terra jirma, pulling the canoe after me. Early baths of this kind are not in fashion in the North- West, at this season of the year, but mine was involuntary. Going to camp, I changed my clothes, and went down to the river, ready to make another a ttempt 5 74 Six Ye(ir8 in tfie Canadian NoHh-West. This time I adopted different tactics. Walking along the shore and drawing the canoe after me by means of a rope attached to the bow, I went about half a-mile up stream, thinking by that means to have more space in order to reach the landing-place on the opposite shore. Jumping in the canoe, I again set out, but encountered the same difficulties as before. Sometimes the bow would be up stream, sometimes down ; nevertheless, I kept on paddling, now right, now left, and seeing that I was making some progress gave me new hope ; and exerting all my strength, I at last reached the shore about 100 yards above the landing place. Securing the canoe to a tree, I at once started to look for the ox ; but my endeavours were fruitless. And after rambling about till eight o'clock, I saw from a little hill where I stood, that our men were setting out from camp. I therefore concluded that the ox had been found, and re- turning to my canoe, which I found occupied by two Indians, I crossed with them, and making my way to the camping ground which was still occupied by a few half- breeds, I was informed by them that my conjecture was right, and that the ox had been found among the cart- oxen which had been brought over late in the evening. The country on the leftside of the North Saskatchewan, lying betw^n Carleton and Edmonton, is of a very dif- ferent nature from that we had just left. Between Qu'Ap- pelle River and Carleton, the road was dry ; but in the re- gion we had just entered, on account of the rains having been unusually abundant that summer, the smallest Six Years in the Canadian North- West. 75 rivulets were increased to large streams, and the road, in many places, was covered with large pools of water. In these, our waggons would sometimes sink to the axles, and it required two or three ox-teams to each load to drag them through. To add to our calamity, the grass had lost its greenness by the frost, which had immediately fol- lowed the snow-storm we had experienced at Carleton. Foreseeing these diflSculties we had, it is true, purchased .•some barley at Carleton, to take with us for the use of our horses ; but they, not being strong enough to digest such strong food, having lived on grass alone, while tra- velling from the Pembina River to Carleton, were ren- dered ill by this diet : and some of them died. We thus had to feed the barley very sparely, and the result was that every day some of the horses would fall from hun- ger and fatigue. We would stop and raise them to their feet by means of poles passed beneath them, and, incred- ible as it may appear, I have seen those horses put im- mediately to work and travel on five or six miles far- ther. After passing Carleton, the first station on our road was Fort Pitt, a Hudson Bay Company trading post on the North Saskatchewan. The thought of again meeting a human habitation raised our spirits, but we were soon to be disappointed in our expectations; for, when but a few miles from Fort Pitt, we came to a bifurcation of the road. The left road was the one we expected to follow ; but the other was shorter, and again joined the first mentioned a few mile^ beyond the fort. Inspector Jarvis took th^ 76 Six Years in the Canadian North- West. shortest road, and, when we consider that we were then in October, we must acknowledge that he was right. Victoria was then our next station. Our difficul- ties were increasing daily ; the horses now were but liv- ing skeletons, and the oxen, which were of a great a.s8ist- ance to us, were getting weaker every day ; the frost- killed grass being their only provender. Consequently our marches gradually became shorter and shorter. But in our difficulties, officers and men increased their efforts with redoubled vigour, and, at last. White Creek, about eighteen miles east of Victoria was reached. In the after- noon of the next day, some of the strongest teams were entering Victoria, while the weakest had hardly left White Creek. But the greatest harmony still reigned among us, and, ns usual, the first arrived returned to assist those that had been left behind. We had still to tmvel about eighty-five miles, on roads almost impassable for our heavy waggons, before reaching our destination ; and, therefore, Inspector Jarvis thought it necessary to leave five or six waggons at Victoria, and also the cows and calves, hay being scarce at Edmonton that year. This arrangement enabled him to dispose of half a dozen of men who were sent forward under the command of Sub-Inspector Gragnon with orders to make the roads passable. This was a difficult task, and often re- quired the co-operation of all. Bridges had to be constinicted over streams that were not fordable, and trunks of trees were thrown over mud holes, some of them over a hun- dred yards long. Six Years in Die Canadian North-West. 77 As it w s now near the end of October, and the wea- ther, especially at night, getting very cold, we were losing an average of one horse a day. Yet, we would have lost more, had we not taken the precaution to stable them in tents at night. On the 24th of ti as month we crossed Sturgeon Creek, which lies about twenty miles east of Edmonton, and for the next two days, we made very little progreas, only reaching Horse Hills a distance of eight miles. But the road being good the rest of the distance, the men having the strongest teams were ordered to press forward as fast as possible. Thus some of them reached Edmonton that night, and the next day ; as for myself, thr Apostle of Temperance and two others, we took charge of the four sick horses at Horse Hills, and walked the last twelve miles, each man holding his horse with both hands, one at the head and another at the shoulders, to keep the poor skel- etons on their legs. And in this manner, we entered the gates of , Fort Edmonton in the evening of the 2nd of No- vember, the observed of all observei-s thereof, who never expected to see the Mounted Police arrive in such a wretched state. We shall now go back to the main column which we left wending its way towards the junction of the rivers Bow and Bell3\ As already said, both water and grass were scarce on the plains that lay between Roche Percde and the junction, and therefore, it was not long before many of the horses gave out, and some of them fell to rise no more. Some of the men also began to lose cour- 78 Six Years in tJie Canadian North-West. age, being so disappointed in their expectations. Con- stable T., especially, lost heart, and one morning applied for an interview with the Commissioner. He told Colonel French that he had enlisted in the Mounted Police, think- ing there was some fighting to be done ; but that so far, the only enemy they had met was starvation, and there- fore, he begged to be discharged and allowed to go home. This request greatly astonished the commander-in-chief, and no wonder, when we considered that the column was hundreds of miles from human habitation. At last, Col- onel French came to the conclusion that the brain of Constable T. must be affected, and accordingly, sent for Dr. K. the surgeon. This officer came directly, and asked what was the matter. " Dr. K.," said the Commissioner, " I wish you to take charge of Constable T, whose brain, I fear, is a little affected by the moon." " What ! " ex- claimed Constable T, " do you take me for a fool, because I asked for my discharge ? " " What can I think of a man, who asks me without necessity for it to run to sure death ? This is what your request amounts to, but such a request I can never grant ; for, if I did, I should feel myself responsible for the disastrous results that most in- evitably would ensue." The junction was reached about the middle of Septem- ber. But what a disappointment awaited them ! In- stead of forts, serving as a refuge to the whiskey tradere, they found only two or three roofless and deserted log shanties. On the approach of the column, the inmates of these huts had dismantled them, anaign having resulted in a fizzle, A. and B. divisions were ordered to set out for Ed- monton. But after a half day's march, it was deemed im- possible for the two div^isions to reach there, on account of the weak state of the horses. Therefore, the Commis- sioner ordered them back, and with the whole column, he set out towards the International Boundary, dreading to be caught on the barren plains by the September snow storm. As it was, they would have been caught if the storm had come as early as in the previous year ; and in that case, both men and horses must have miserably per- ished ; the former from cold, having only one blanket each ; the latter from both cold and hunger. But though the column had escaped the effect of the usual snow-storm, Colonel French was still in a great dif- ficulty, the horses being unable to travel all the way back. But his mind was a measure set at rest at last by or- ders received from the Covemment to leave the main part of his forces in that region, if he thought it was proper to do so. The result was, that A. B. C. and F. divisions were left there under the command of Colonel McLeod, the assistant commissioner. Almost immediately a marked change for the better was visible ; for this oflScer, a man of giant abilities, proved himself equal to the occasion. He at once procured from Fort Benton, U. S., a good sup- ply of food and clothing for his men, who were reduced to mere skeletonsj'and were almost destitute of both. As for 80 Six Years in tJie Canadian North-West. the horses, he sent them to the Sun River Valley, U. S., to pass the winter and recruit up for the next summer's work ; and with his men, he built during the winter the fort which still bears his name. As for Colonel French, he purchased some horses from hunters, whom he came across, and returned homeward with D and E divisions. It would take many pages of the book to relate all the hardships and sufferings they had to endure on their way. But, with clothing in tat- ters, and most part of the time living on half-rations, they finally passed Fort Qu'Appelle and reached Fort Pelly, at which place E division was quartered ; and which, for some time, became the headquarters of the Mounted Police, in that section of the country. Leaving this place. Colonel French resumed his march with D division towards Dufierin, and finally entered that place on the 7th of November. Thus ended the campaign of 1874, which had it had for its theatre the European Continent would not have wanted for writers to relate its vicissitudes and perils ; yet Canadians hardly remember that eight yeai-s ago 300 volunteers offered their service to pluck from barbarism a country whi^h, in a few years, is destined to occupy an important position on the American continent. CH/ PTER IX. Etlraonton in 1874— My Journey to the riainB— A New Motlo of Travo'Mng —My First Experience in Camping Out in Winter -My Arrival at Butfalo Lake -A Bold Hunter— An Indian Camp on Red Deer River— An Indian Dance or Pow-Wow. EDMONTON in 1874 was composed of only the Hud- son Bay Company's fort, a Methodist church, and a few houses scattered along the banks of the river. As there were no houses to receive us, and the severity of the winter would not permit of any being built. Inspector Jarvis rented apartments within the fort itself, and thus provided shelter for the detachment. The forts in the North- West Territories are far from being ecMial in solidity to those in more civilized countries. Fort Edmonton, with which we arc at present concerned, consists of a palisade some twenty feet high, formed of hewn posts. At the corners of this enclosure are tur- rets, through the loop-holes of wliich can be seen the juuzzles of the guns. And strange as it may appear, these slight fortifications have ever sufficed to keep at a i"e- spcctful distance, even the Blackfeet Indians, so well re- nowned in the military annals of the United States, by the numerous massacres of which they were the authors. Within the palisade, are situated the storehouse where Six Years in the Canad'wn Korth-West. In-^lians exchange their fui-s for goods; and three parallel rows of cottages provided for the accommodation of the company's employees complete the fort. It was in these cottages that we were installed and passed the winter. To the excitement and toil of the expedition was to succeed a monotonous and sedentary life. All we had to do was to look after the horses, and even that slight ex- ercise grew less and less by d(5grees as the most of them died during the winter. I need hardly say that this inaction was very irksome to me; for when 1 enlisted, it was my intention to test the accuracy of the accounts of the Indians given by novelists, and to explore those regions hitherto unknown to any but the native inhabitants. There were a few Indians near Fort Edmonton, and also at Ellice and Car- leton ; but these seemed so degenerated that I resolved a8 H/>on as possible to carry out my original intention, and take H f/)ur through the plains stretching away t« the south of Edmonton, where the Indians were then said to be hunting the buffalo, and where I expected to find them in that perft!ctly wild and fearless state described by novelists, and pictured in my vivid imagination. I had also another motive for deciding to undertake the jour- ney. Having heard that the buffaloes were hunted to such an extent that they would soon be exterminated, I diMired to see them in their natural state while it re- mained in my power to do so. But the m inter being very severe, ! was obliged to defer jny journey until March. Six Years in the Canadian North-Weat. 83 As it is customary in these regions to travel with doga in the winter season, I resolved to adopt this mode of travelling myself ; and to say the least of it, this mode had for me the charm of novelty. Accordingly, on the 5th of March, I set out with three dogs harnessed to a sled, and took the road leading to J3ufFalo Lake, as it was in that direction the buffaloes were said to roam. I soon found that dogs travel very well when driven by their master, but if a stranger under- takes to drive them, they not only refuse to advance, but they show their teeth in a very significant manner. XLi^ half-breed from whom I hired the team acco^Q^jiiwcp;;,*) a short distance, and then, after (which I was not, having been advised to cairy no arms with me, in order to inspire the Indians with confidence), J should not have been able to withstand their attack without the aid of fire. In the afternoon of the next day, I arrived at Buffalo Lake (so named on account of its forir being similar to that of a buffalo) having travelled one hundred miles from Edmonton. On the shores of the lake was a vil- lage inhabited by Indians and half-breeds who were hunt- ing the buffalo. The half-breed who preceded mo had ap- prised them of my coming ; ho a large party came out to meet me, each contending for the honour of entertaining an envoy of the Canadian Government. Learning that I had come to see the buffaloes, the half-breeds assured me that they were to be found about sixty miles further south, and that it would be quite ea.sy to satisfy my curiosity. So the following day, notwith- standing their friendly endeavours to detain me, I set out in the direction of a Cree camp situated in the valley of Red Deer River. Before leaving Edmonton, I learned that stray buffa- loes, separated from the herd, were exceedingly fierce, 86 Six Years in the Canadian North- West. and dangerous, and was advised if I met any such, to avoid them ; and the same advice was given me by my friendly entertainers of the previous niglit. To impress this fact on my mind, one related the story of a hunter who would never hunt on horseback ; and one day, meet- ing with a buffalo bull, he fireund of tea, with which addition to their stock of stimulants, they kept up their amusements until morning. CHAPTER X. An Unexpected Propoaal— On the Koad Again— A Disagreement — Hunting the Bu£Falo — Disappearance of my Guides — Visit to Another Camp— A Council of Warriors— A Peculiar Feast— On my Return — Frozen Ears — Paternal Anxiety— The Indian Doctor— Return to Buffalo Lake— Visit to the Cree Indian Headquarters— The Indian Conjuror's Account of the Creation of the World— My Return to Edmonton and Kind jfleception ON the following morning, I was about to walk out to take a view of the surroundings of the camp, when I saw the Indian Chief coming towards me, leading by the hand the young Uskinik squaw, my partner of the previous night, and followed by the counsellor and the petty chiefs. Of course I was somewhat curious to know what^could be the object of this early morning visit ; and to my sorrow, I soon learned what it was. Without utter- ing a word, the Indians walked into the wigwam and sat down. Then the chief took out a pipe and smoking a few minutes, passed it to another who followed bis ex- ample, and so on, till all had smoked the pipe of peace. This done, the counsellor arose, and began to speak with remarkable vehemence and volubility. I could understand nothing of what he said but •' Uskinik squaw " which he often repeated, pointing at the same time, towards the young girl. But from the countenance of my host, which 6 90 Six Years in the Canadian North- West grew more and more gloomy as the speaker went on, and from his occ&sional glances at me, I could understand that this discourse foreboded me no good. When the counsel- lor had ceased to speak, my host told me that the chief, as a proof and pledge of his pacific sentiments towards the whites, had resolved to give his daughter to the white man whom he considered mast worthy of that honour, and that it was upon me his choice had fallen, and he now brought her to me, hoping I would fully appreciate the honour he wished to confer upon me. Honour in- deed ! I was terrified. My first reflections were regrets, that I had been foolish enough to venture among the In- dians alone, and then, how to safely get rid of that honour. To refuse, would bring upon me imprisonment and tor- ture, perhaps death. To marry, and desert her, I would not. To marry and live with her would be worse than death. What was I to do ? I could see no way out of my difficulty, but to appear to acquiesce, that I might gain time to get away from them. So, resolving^pon this course, I charged my host to say to the chief, that being neither a great warrior, nor a mighty hunter, I waw far from expecting so great an honour ; but, if he abso- lutely insisted on having me for his son-in-law, I begged for a delay of a few days in order to give my friends at Edmonton time to come and witness the wedding, adding that it was the custom among the whites, to invite many guests and to make great preparations for such an impor- tant event. My answer not only seemed to satisfy, but to greatly^'please the old chief; and, considering the af- thal froi the 1 fl Six Years in tJve Canadian North- West. 01 fair settled, he arose, and with his followers retired. Congratulating myself on having escaped from such a dilemma, and for having succeeded in gaining the above respite, I felt sure of escaping them altogether. When I had been there three days, some half-breeds ar- rived who were going buffalo himting, and I set out with them. We soon came across fresh buffalo tracks, but they were so few that we thought it not worth our while to follow. So, proceeding, we reached the banks of Red Deer River about noon, and crossing, two divergent roads lay before us. My companions deliberated which one to take, but opinions were divided, words ended in contra- dictions, and from contradictions they were coming to blows, when I interfered, and said that fighting could do no good, as blows could not change any man's opinions. The best way would be, for each man to take the road which he thought to be the right one. My advice was followed, and, along with the larger party, I took the road to the right, and which led us to a Cree camp, at which we arrived at night-fall. These Indians had been apprised of my coming and of the object of my visit ; they therefore came forth to meet me, bidding me wel- come, and soon had me quartered in the wigwam of the chief, who gave a dance in honour of my arrival, similar to the one described above. At dawn the next morning, an Indian informed me that he had seen a numerous herd of buffaloes only a mile from the camp, and that a party was going out to hunt them.j ^This was an opportunity too good to be last, and i IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-S) /. 7 y, ^ 1.0 I.I \^m m H: 1^ M 1.8 1-25 III 1.4 116 V] <^ /] a /: ^m ^v /^ ^W^ 7 Photograpbic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBS SR.N.Y. 14580 (>-|6) 872-4503 ^\ C^ 92 Six Years in the Canadian North- West. therefore, having hired a horse and a rifle, I set out with the hunters. In order to shelter themselves from the icy- wind, the buffaloes had entered a valley surrounded by- steep hills with only a narrow passage of ingress and egress ; and to this passage we were led by one of my tra- velling companions who conducted the hunt. Here a party of the hunters was stationed, to prevent the buffaloes from escaping, and the rest of us were dispersed in an extensive circle, behind the hills surrounding the valley. These ar- rangements completed, we ascended the hills, and, at a given signal, simultaneously attacked the herd, both rear and flank, the buffaloes rushing with might and main to- wards the only opening, and we after them. Meeting the fire of the party in the passage, the buffaloes turned and charged us. But a well sustained fire brought down a g^eat number of them ; and only a few succeeded in climbing the hills and making their escape. The hunt ended, we set to work to remove the skins and cut up the meat. Then, we built a fire, and roasted what the Indians consider the choicest and most delicate part of the buffalo, and, after enjoying this to satiety, the meat and hides were packed on sleds brought by the squaws for that purpose, and all returned to camp. Being desirous of visiting the camp of Pichican, a Cree chief, the next day and not knowing tiie way, I was in a quandary as to how to accomplish my purpose, when for- tunately two Indians arrived, who were sent by the Great Chief Kiskajou (short-tail) ^to the principal chief of the Blackfeet, and as they were going by the camp I \»i,sihed Six Years in the Canadian NoHh-West 93 r.y to visit, I asked and obtained permission to accompany them. We set out accordingly but there being no road, my dogs refused to advance. I was at , a loss to know what to do, when one of the Indians signed to me to get out and follow on foot, while he led the way on snow shoes. Th^s being done, the dogs set out again ; but the depth of the snow, and the numerous herds of buffaloes that we encountered, rendered our progress slow and dif- ficult. At nightfall, we encamped on the summit of a hill, a necessary precaution to prevent being trampled under foot by the buffaloes. In this bleak situation, without shelter from the wind, I expected to pass a very uncomfortable night ; but being very tired and having a good fire, I slept soundly until morning. On rising, my companions were nowhere to be seen ; and not knowing what direction to proceed, I was about to retrace my steps to the camp we had left, when suddenly the Indians emerged from a snow- bank in which they had buried themselves, to protect them from the cold. This to me was a new expedient, but, I must admit, it was a good one. We then had breakfast, and thus refreshed, we set out again for the camp of Pichican, which we reached that evening. My arrival created great surprise among the Indians, and all the greater since they had never seen a govern- ment functionary clothed in uniform. The Indians who accompanied me were assailed with innumerable ques- tions about me, and the chief summoned a council for the following day and requested me to attend. At the ap- I 94 Six Years in the Canadian N'orth-West pointed hour, I repaired to the council wigwam, and met at the door a young Indian, who said to me in English : "My brother is expected," and then conducted me to a seat on the right hand of the chief. Being astonished to hear an Indian speak English, I enquired where he had learned the language, when he told me that he had spent two years in college at Montreal, but becoming home-sick, he had returned to bis tribe, notwithstanding the entreat- ies of the missionary who had taken charge of his educa- tion. In the wigwam were assembled about fifty warriors who maintained a profound and gloomy silence which was at length broken by the chief, who, in a solenm tone, asked me the object of my visit. I answered that I had come to assure myself of the correctness of the information concerning the Indians, which I had collected from differ- ent sources, adding, that I belonged to a band of white warriors, commissioned to protect the Indians against their enemies. My reply was in every way satisfactory, and immediately afterwards an In(iirn entered, bearing the pipe (calumet) of peace. Having filled it with to- bacco and lighted it, he handed it to the chief, who, be- fore smoking, turned the pipe towards the four points of the compass, to show that he was at peace with all man- kind. Then taking a few draws, he passed the pipe to me. I followed his example, and when the calumet had made the tour of the assembly, two squaws entered carry- ing a pot of tea and a kettle of very young buffalo veal, prepared with a kind of sauce. This dish the Indians Six Years in the Canadian NoHh- West. 95 I consider a great delicacy ; but to my mind it was so ob- jectionably delicate, that had I not been afraid of dis- pleasing my entertainers, I should have abstained from taking any part of the feast. When all was ready everyone stood while the chief said grace, which was repeated by all the warriors. This was another surprise to me, but I afterwards learned that this tribe had become converts to Christianity, that the chief acted as pastor to his tribe, and that, as a tribe, they were noted for their honesty and good behaviour. The next day (after visiting the abattoir, a kind of enclosure formed with poles, into which the Indians drove herds of buffalo, killing the fat ones and letting the thin ones free), not being disposed to prolong my journey, I bade adieu to this tribe, and set out on my return, follow- ing the same road by which we had come. I was now without a guide, but the track of my sled in the snow made it easy to follow the trail. Kesolving to reach the same day the camp where I had joined the buffalo hunt, I spared neither myself nor the dogs. The day was warm, but about sunset a cold wind set in, which at first I did not notice, but whose baleful effects I was soon to experi- ence, for having become exceedingly warm by the rapidity of the march, I inadvertently raised my beaver cap, thus exposing my ears to the freezing wind and they were bady frozen without my realizing what had taken place. This will not be at all surprising to those who have been in a similar situation. It was midnight when I arrived at the camp. After :i ' !l 96 Six Years in the Canadian North-Weat unharnessing my dogs, I entered the wigwam of the chief; but had scarcely seated myself near the fire when I felt a sharp stinging sensation through my ears, and, for the first time, discovered that they were frozen. I, at once, resorted to the only efficacious remedy wi&hin my reach and rubbed them well with snow. But it is useless to attempt to describe the sufferings which I endured ; those only who have been in similar circumstances can form any idea of it. As the pain became greater every moment, and the Indians of this tribe could be of no help to me, I set out with all speed for Edmonton, and on that afternoon ar- rived at the wigwam of the fur trader in Red River Camp. The news of my arrival and misfortune spread like wild- fire, and very soon the wigwam of my host was encum- bered with visitors who came to sympathize with me ; and the chief especially was so extremely anxious about his son-in-law, that he would not leave me for a moment, and to encourage me, said : " The great medicine man of the nation will come to-morrow to take care of my son." In truth, the kind old chief had sent quite a distance for an Indian doctor, who came the next morning as the chief had said. He seated himself in silence, with his eyes on the ground, till the chief addressed him, and told him why he had sent for him. Approaching me, the doctor said, " Let my brother shew me his ears," and after a careful examination added, " If my brother will submit to my treatment, and follow my directions, he will soon be healed." Then taking a root from his medicine bag, Tfl Six Years in the Canadian North- West. 97 somewhat resembling a beet, he cut some thin slices, and after chewing theni till they were reduced to a pulp, he applied it to my ears ; and almost immediately I felt its soothing effects. As for the plant, from which this root is produced, I am ignorant of its technical name, and I doubt if it is even known to botanists. It is called in the Cree language " Akantamoo," and grows in marshy places. Its leaves are long and curled, and the root, which tastes like a'carrot, sometimes attains the length of three feet. After a week of assiduous care and attention, my ears had so much improved 'that, after liberally rewarding my Doctor, I set out for Edmonton, and reached Buffalo Lake the next day. There I met some hunters who were going to the plains, but in a different direction from the one I had taken ; and, postponing my return to Edmonton, I joined them. Leaving my dogs here for a rest, I hired horses for this journey, and a march of two days brought us to the camp of the Great Chief Kiskajou. I was soon summoned by this chief, who, by the voice of his coimsellor, asked me about the same questions that were asked by the chiefs I had met before. But though on this occasion I gave ex- planations as I did^before, Kiskajou did not seem satis- fied with my answers. Perhaps this was on account of my having visited his subordinates first. While at this place, I paid a visit to the conjuror or "Wise Man" of the tribe, and asked him how he accounted for the creation of the world. He said " the Great Manito II 111 I i 98 Six Years in the CanacUan North- West. (Spirit) had made it. Then he made the buffalo. But as there was no one to kill and eat the buffalo, he took some black dirt and made the Indian, and by a puff of his breath, gave him life. Then finding the Indian required some one to wait upon him, and cook his food, the Great Manito took a piece of wood and made the squaw." For some days, the snow had been melting rapidly, and I therefore thought it prudent to return to Edmonton as soon as possible. Bidding adieu to the hunter? and In- dians, I started to Buffalo Lake which I reached in the afternoon. I remained there till after nightfall, when, fearing the snow would melt before I reached Edmonton, I harnessed my dogs, refreshed by their rest, and started. Travelling the remainder of the night and through the next day till about three o'clock, I reached Edmonton, hav- ing covered a distance of one hundred miles with dogs and fifty miles with horses, without sleeping. As soon as he heard of my arrival. Inspector Jarvis came to see me, and was quite surprised to find me safe and well, as various reports had reached them about me. First, that I had been frozen to death on the plains ; then, that I had my feet, ears and nose frozen, and that amputation had become necessary, etc. But though I was still suffering from my frozen ears, in consequence of their having been exposed to the cold after leaving Red Deer River Camp, I was otherwise as well as I had ever been in my life. Before taking this journey to the plains, I had expressed to Inspector Jarvis a desire to resign my position in the M pr th w] th th Six Years in the Canadian North-West. 99 Mounted Police Force ; but the journey had changed my projects, and I now resolved to more thoroughly study the Indian character, and that region of the North- West which they inhabit ; and by retaining my position in the Mounted Police I could more easily attain my object than by any other means. CHAPTER XI. DiBturbftnce during my Absence and its Causes— Selection of a Site for a New Fort — Resignation of Colonel French and Appointment of Colonel Mc- Leod— His Visit to Fort Saskatchewan.— Fort Tail Creek- On the Red Deer River — Second Journey to the Plains — Importunate Guests— Meet- ing an Interpreter from Fort Mclieod — A Proof of Half-Breed Brav«y— Lost I — My Arrival at Pigeon Lake. ON :ay return from the plains, I found most of the men under arrest, and one of them suspended. This was more of the work of the Commissioner, Colonel French, who, not satisfied with the miseries already in- flicted upon us, must needs add a further indignity by writing to Inspector Jarvis to select a site within twenty miles of Edmonton, on the right bank of the Sas- katchewan on which he was ordered to build a Fort spa- cious enough to quarter two divisions ; ordering that the timber should be secured by tender, but the work of building should be done by the men, and that done, we were to be set to work at farming. These instructions were received during my absence, and I therefore was not present when they were made known to the men. I must say here that we were all very much dissatisfied with having been obliged, at outrageous prices, to purchase our clothing from the Hudson Bay Company's store with Six Years in the Canadian North-West. 101 Tl our own money, no provision having been made by the Commissioner for renewing our stock of clothing when needed ; and this, with many other circumstances, caused the men upon receiving the order to go to farming, to re- ply that they did not enlist in the Mounted Police for that purpose, and they could have done that kind of work without coming so far. Under these circumstances Inspector Jarvis acted as becomes a gftod officer. He could not disobey the orders of his superior without dishojuouring himself, and was therefore obliged to put the refractory men under arrest, and suspend their leader until the arrival of Colonel French, who alone had power to try their case and inflict punishment. In accordance with instructions received, Inspector Jar- vis removed his men in the spring of 1875 to a site on the south bank of the river, eighteen miles from Edmon- ton, and began at once to build Fort Saskatchewan, prom- ising the men fifteen cents a day extra pay. But no farm- ing work was undertaken that summer. There were, at that time, only two or three temporary cabins in that neighbourhood, occupied by gold finders ; but since then a marvellous change has taken place. The country around Fort Saskatchewan is exceedingly fertile and a great number of colonists have settled there and successfully till the soil. On the opposite bank of the river extends a valley some three miles in length, where elegant houses are to be seen, about which rises the Roman Catholic Chapel of Notre Dame de Lourdes; and from three miles ^!llb 102 Six Years in the Canadian North-West. above the chapel to four miles below it, as far as the mouth of Sturgeon Creek, the banks of the Saskatchewan are occupied by settlers. In the fall of 1875, Colonel French, to the great joy of almost every member of the Mounted Police, resigned his commission ; and he did so, just in time to save the Qov- emment the trouble of dismissing him. Colonel M^Leod, the Assistant Commissioner, whose proficiency we have already related, was appointed in his place. This officer came to Fort Saskatchewan in the spring of '76. He called us all together, released the men under arrest, and said that he was very sorry when he heard that men who had so willingly accomplished feats almost unparalleled in history, had revolted for so trifling* a cause. He had no desire to excuse the doings of his predecessor, far from it, but his mistakes were not just grounds for revolting ; and as obedience was the first condition of military dis- cipline, nothing like order could exist without it. He "ended by saying that the past would be forgotten, and he hoped, that as long as he remained Commissioner, his or- ders would be of such a nature that no man would feel inclined to disobey. And I may here add, that his hopes were fulfilled ; for during the whole of the time that he remained in office, not a murmur was heard, and all were proud of having such a leader. In tJie account of my first journey to the plains, we have seen that in the rogion of Red Deer River, boffitloes were very numerous ; and here the Indians during the winter season hunt them. To protect these Indians from Six Tears in the Canadian North- West. 103 the whiskey traders, Tail Creek Fort was built about half-way between Fort Calgarry, on Bow River, a^^d Fort Saskatchewan. This fort was built near the mouth of Tail Creek, and a part of the division was quartered there. In August, 76, Sub-constable M. and myself, were or- dered to hold ourselves in readiness to start for Tail Creek, where we were to pass the winter ; and for my part, I was delighted with the prospec L »f a second so- journ among the Indians. This time aw I was not to spend a few weeks only, but a few rr oiithp in their com pany, it would afford me an exceuent opportunity of stuuyiQg their manners and customs. After my journey to the plains the previous year, I should have been able myself to pilot the way to our des- tination ; but for greater security Constable C, who had been to Tail Creek several times, was detailed to go with us, as guide. At ten o'clock in the morning of the 25th of August, we set out, following the road which passes along paral- lel to the right bank of the Saskatchewan, but at some distance from it, and which leads to a gristmill situated about opposite Fort Edmonton. We were about one hundred and twenty miles from Tail Creek, but having four spiiited horses, we expected to accomplish the jour- ney in five days at the most. There was certainly a striking contrast between my two travelling companions. Sub-Constable M. was a Scotchman, seldom offeree; a remark, and answered M 104 Six Years in the Canadian North- West. questionsonly after mature deliberation. But quite the contrary was Constable C, who was an Irishman, and boasted of^his descent from the ancient Irish kings. JHe was never quiet and never tired of admiring the vast prairies] that were stretching before us," frequently re- minding us of the thousands of labourers, who were liv- ing in large towns in the most abject'misery, and who,i^if they were settled here, where land cost nothing and never becomes exhausted, would think themselves the happiest of men. We were then traversing one of the most beautiful and fertile regions of the North-west. On our right, in a deep bed, rolled the majestic waters of the Saskatchewan. According as we recede from the river bank, the ground gradually rises as far as the Beaver Hills which lie be- tween Edmonton and Fort Saskatchewan, in the direction parallel to the river. The soil enclosed between the hills is very fertile ; timber suitable for building is plentiful, and game very abundant. As for the road we were following, the settlers had abandoned it for that which extends along the left branch of the river. We had not taken the last, in order to avoid crossing the river at Fort Saskatchewan and Ed- monton. However, it would have been better Ij have chosen this road rather than the first, which being cov- ered with luxuriant grass, was difficult to follow. At sunset, being ybt [severaPmiles from the mill, we camped on the banks of a brook that we had just crossed. Scarcely had we set our horses at liberty to graze, when Six years in the Canadian Korth-West. 105 ' ft Constable C, taking possession of the kettles, ran to fill them with water for the supper ; a few minutes after, a large fire was burning and soon the repast was served on the grass. Neither I nor Sub-constable M. could under- stand the reason of so much haste, and to our questions Constable C. would reply briefly, "hurry up." Our supper was nearly over, when an Indian, issuing from a neigh- bouring thicket, (3ame towards us. He was the chief of the tribe, dwelling among the Beaver Hills. After shak- ing hands with us, the only mode of salutation used among the Indians, he seated himself, without restraint, beside the kettles : his hair waving, and having for a dress nothing but a " pagne." At the sight of such " sans g^ne" Sub-Constable M. made a grimace, and but for Constable C, who made him a sign not to stir, he was about to rush upon the Indian, and make him decamp. It was well for us that he did not do so, for six other Indians who just then were ap- proaching, followed by their squaws and papooses, would have quickly resented any insult ofiered to their chief. All sat down around the kettles, waiting for the remains of our meal, and the scene suggested a picture worthy of the greatest painter. "Do you understand now," said Constable C, "my hurry in preparing supper? We shall have to do thus every time we camp in the neighbourhood of Indians, and I hope we shall havo time to eat before they arrive ; for the sight of their persons takes away all my relish for food," 106 8ix Years in the Canadian North-West. After baving scraped and even licked our kettles, the Indians smoked for awhile, and then held a council. On hearing them repeat the word neemito, which in the Cree language signifies "to dance," I understood that they were about to engage in that exercise. The chief ad- dressed a few words to an Uskinik squaw, who comply- ing with his request, bounded away with the rapidity of a deer. At the end of an hour, she returned, holding in her hand a tambourine and a drum stick which she gave to one of the Indians, who, after tuning the instrument, began the pam-pam already known to the readers. Wo have already described a similar dance ; so we need not return to it. Sub-constable M. and I were not in a hu- mour to take part in it, but Constable C, whom a trifle in- terested, danced the whole night. The next day, in order to escape the importunities of the Indians, we set out before breakfast and soon arrived at a bifurcation of the road. On the left bank of the Saskatchewan, were to be seen some houses which, ac- cording to Constable C, formed a part of the colony of Edmonton. We were then near the creek upon which is built the mill where the road to the right terminates. As we had to cross this creek about a mile above the mill, we took the left hand road : but, after marching on it for some time, we remarked that it was taking us away from the direction we had to go. So, retracing our steps to the bifurcation, we took the other way and soon came to another branch of the road from which place appeared on our right the grist mill and Fort Edmonton. Taking the Six Years in Jte Canadmn North-West 107 road to the left, which, being recently laid out, was scarcely passable, we soon arrived on the banks of the creek where we expected to cross on a bridge which had been built some time during the previous year. But we were disappointed in our expectations ; the bridge had been carried away by a flood in the spring. The stream being not fordable, we had to build a bridge. But it will be said, does not such a work require weeks and even months ? By no means, a few hours were sufficient to throw across the creek a temporary bridge. While my comrades were cutting some branches, I cut down two or three trees which fell across the stream. Upon the trunks were laid the branches which were covered with earth. This done, we safely crossed to the other side. B^suming our march, we were soon on the road from Edmonton to Buffalo Lake, the same one that I had taken the preced- ing year, and which we were to follow as far as the vicin- ity of the above lake. Although my journey to the plains had been made when the ground was covered with snow, this road was pretty familiar to me, on account of certain striking inci- dents which occurred on it. Here is the place where the half-breed, from whom I had hired a team of dogs, gave me his last instructions ; a little farther, the tree to which I had fastened the dogs to give them a beating, etc., etc. Towards evening, we reached White Mud Creek, a tributaiy of the Saskatchewan, about ten miles distant from Edmonton, on the banks of which we camped for the night. We would have halted sooner but for som^ m m Hi I 108 Six Years in the Canadian N'orth-West Indian families which we overtook and left behind us. We had taken with us only six days provisions, hence, notwithstanding the good will of Constable C, we could not invite Indians to our meals. Besides, Sub-constable M., by his giimaces, showed his want of sympathy with such guests. At nightfall, the next day, we met, near Pipestone Creek, the interpreter of the Mounted Police from Fort McLeod, greatly excited by fear. Bearing dis- patches for Fort Saskatchewan, he informed us of the massacre of the American General Custer and his army by the Sioux ; adding, that the Indians of Canada were secretly arming themselves, and would soon fall unex- pectedly upon the whites and half-breeds. The check re- ceived by the Americans was not very serious. Custer had under his command only three or four hundred sol- diers, a very feeble force when we consider that he was attacked in an unfavourable position by several thousand savages. In the open country, notwithstanding its inferi- ority of number, Custer's army would have easily gained the day. The Indian extraction of the interpreter will account for his fears ; for the half-breeds, like the Indians, are not remarkable for their courage. The following anecdote, which I have from a reliable source, will give an idea of their courage, or rather their want of courage. " One day a great number of mounted half-breeds, ac- companied by carts, were going to hunt buffaloes. Among them was a French Canadian, who, not being able to ride, was placed in a cart. After marching a long time with- out meeting any game, they arrived in the teiTitory of 1 Six Years in the Canadian North-West. 109 the Blackfeet who were the terror of the half-breeds. (This was a fact which had been verified in. 1874 ; for before the arrival of the Mounted Police they had but rarely ventured beyond the territory of the Crees.) As their provisions were almost exhausted, and by retracing their steps starvation was awaiting them, they advanced carefully, determined to beat a retreat as soon as they should perceive the Blackfeet. During two days they met nobody, but the third day, just as they resumed their journey, they perceived in the distance some horsemen coming towards them. Although superior in numbers, they were seized with such terror that before assuring themselves as to whether they had to deal with friends or enemies, they took to flight, abandoning the carts and the Canadian, tv ho besought them, but in vain, to remain. These Indians were Crees, and seeing nobody on the carts they were preparing to take possession of them when they perceived the Canadian standing up, curious to know who the newcomers were. The Crees, who, like the hare in LaFontaine'sfable.thought themselves valiant warriors, haughtily asked him why his companions had run away. When they learned the reason of it they burst out laugh- ing, and called the half-breeds cowards. The latter had concealed themselves in a low place, at some distance from where they could see without being seen, and seeing that the Canadian was unmolested and continuing his journey with the carts, they issued from their hidin'g place and soon overtook him, ashamed of having shown so little courage." 110 Six Years in the Canadian North- West. The next morning at daybreak, the interpreter, whose nerves had been steadied by sleep, set out again, and very soon after We did the same. Having come to a bifur- cation of the road, I remarked to Constable C.,who took the road to the right, that the road to the left seemed to me to be the one I had followed the preceding year. How- ever, I did not insist, when he assured me that we were in the right way. Meanwhile, I was asking myself, but in vain, to what destination the other road, which was much travelled, could lead. After crossing Pipe Stone Creek we entered a bushy region, and as we gradually advanced the road became less passable and turned in a wesiterly direction. We could not, therefore, be on the right road, as the Way from Edmonton to Buffalo Lake lies in a southern direction and across what may be called a prairie country, I communicated my fears to Constable C. and asked him if he was perfectly sure that we were on the right road. He was forced to admit that he now entertained some doubt about it, but he thought that we would pro- bably reach Battle River by that road at all events, and by following the banks of that stream it would be easy for us to find our way again. In expecting that we would reach Battle River he was greatly mistaken, since instead of going south, we were going west as before stated, and admitting even that we should reach Battle River that way, how did he know that we could travel along its banks with the cart ? We were travelling at random, as we shall see later on. Six Years in the Canadian North-West. Ill The next day, at noon, we arrived on the banks of a stream which we erased, after demolishing a beaver dam which obstructed the way, and, entering a region where the grass was abundant and the soil loamy (different in that respect to the region we had just left, in which the soil is very sandy), we resolved to remain until the next day in order to allow our horses time to recuperate. As the soil where we stood is of the same nature as in the vicinity of Battle River, Constable C. assured me once more that we would soon be on the banks of that stream. He especially said this in order to raise the spirits of Sub- constable M. who, having charge of the provisions, had told us that we had hardly enough flour to last two daj^s. Whether there was any flour or not, it mattered little to Constable C, who, being a dead shot and having with him a fowling piece, expected to bring down all the game that would come within range. Unfortunately since leaving Fort Saskatchewan, we had not met any game, and if this continued, his skill would be of little service to us. I was, however, far from becoming discouraged, for in case the flour and the game would fail, I counted upon attacking two hundred pounds of bacon that were in the cart. Veiy early the next morning, while Sub-constable M. was preparing breakfast, I went to look after the horses in order to bring them in. But notwithstanding a care- ful search of two hours, I came back with only two horses to my travelling companions. " Very probably " said Constable C, to me, " we shall soon find the horses, 112 Six Years in the Canadian North-West. meanwhile put one of the remaining horses in the cart and go forward till you reach ^^ttle River. As we shall travel quicker than you, we shall soon overtake you." His excessive confidence caused me to smile ; but I set out nevertheless, in advance, urging the horse for- ward, anxious as I was to arrive somewhere. The more I advanced the more difficult became the road, which was narrow, and in a good many places, obstructed with stumps and felled trees. As I said before, the road to Buffalo Lake that we should have followed, passes through scarcely anything but plains ; the road on which I was travelling was becoming more and more hilly, and the forest more dense. Having marched up a gradual ascent for an hour or so, I suddenly found myself on the verge of a very steep descent. Too late to stop the horse, and the cart not be- ing provided with a brake, I found myself going down hill with extreme velocity. This unrestrained course could not last very long, and arriving at a turn of the road, the cart upset and I was thrown, head first, to a great distance. This fall stunned me for a moment, and on recovering my senses, I saw the horse lying on his back, and struggling in the harness. To set him at lib- erty was the work of a second, and I ascertained with pleasure that he had only some slight bruises. As I was about to unload the cart in order to raise it again, I heard a hollow roaring, similar to that produced by waves breaking against the rocks. At first, I thought it was the waving of the trees agitated by the wind ; but Six Years in the Canadian North- West. 113 the noise being heard only in front of rae, I soon concluded that it was produced by some other cause. Leaving the cart there, and followed by the horse, which I could not leave alone in this unknown region, I set forward in the direction of the noise. After walking in that manner some hundred yards, I came in sight of a lake on the shore of which at some distance to the right, were a few log cabins. The lake was rough, and the noise that I had heard was produced by the dashing of the waves against its rocky shore. But what lake was it ? This was a question that I could not answer. After reflecting for a while, I remembered that, since we went astray, we had been marching in a souihwestem direction ; and, as Pigeon Lake lay that way, I concluded that it was that large sheet of water which I saw before me. It was then useless to go any farther ; so, I immediately returned to the cart, from which I removed the baggage and set it up again. Then I hitched the horse in order to retrace my steps. While turning around, I heard the gallop of a horse which was approaching, and a few moments after- wards. Constable C. appeared, mounted on his horse, which was pouring with sweat, and whose sides were lacerated by the spurs of its rider. Constable C. was so excited that one would have thought that he had been running for life. " Do you know where we are ? " said he, at length. " Certainly," said I, " I cannot so soon forget that we are on the banks of Battle River ; only, to effect a crossing of several miles, a ferry is absolutely necessary. Don't you think it would be better to return, and cross 114 Six Years in the Canadian North- West. Battle River where it is fordable ?" " Pray cease your raillery," he replied, " like you, I want to go back, but first try and answer my question." " My answer will perhaps surprise you," said I, " but if you desire it, I tell you that we are at this moment in the forest that surrounds Pigeon Lake." " That is what I have just learned from a settler," said he, " on hearing this, I put my horse to a gallop in the hope of sparing you a useless march, but I was too late to overtake you before your arrival at the lake." Notwithstanding our critical situation. Constable C, soon recovered his usual gaiety, feeling confident that two Indians which he had hired would find the lost horses. In the evening we met Sub-constable M. and camped about ten miles from the Lake. 1 >ur rst ips lat on r," in Itoo C, lat ost ind CHAPTER XII. Pigeon Lake and its Surroundings— Retracing our Steps— Short of Kations. — How to Prepare Dry Meat — On the Right Road again— Battle River — Our Arrival at Tail Creek Fort— A Word about That Place— Constable P. a wonderful mathematician — My Attempt to Assist him. PIGEON LAKE is about ten miles distant from the Saskatchewan River and fifty miles from Edmon- ton. In round numbers, it is about fifteen miles long and ten miles wide. Upon its shores, there is a colony, whose inhabitants, chiefly Indians and half-breeds, live by hunt- ing and fishing. This lake abounds in fish ; and the settlers around Edmonton and Fort Saskatchewan often go to Pigeon Lake in autumn to exchange goods for fish with the Indians and half-breeds. In the vicinity of the lake, the soil is fertile, and the settlers there cultivate vegetables and a few cereals. But on account of the high price of labour, the clearing of the land would entail too great an expense to permit the cultivation of cereals being undertaken on a large scale. It is from Pigeon Lake and two other lakes situated farther south, that Battle River takes its rise. Next morning, the Indians brought us the horses we had lost. We congratulated ourselves on getting out of the predicament so cheaply, when we remembered that 116 Six Years in the Canadian North- West. horses lost in similar circumstances, have often been found only after months aud even years of most careful search." Before resuming our journey, we exchanged with a set- tler some bacon for dry meat. It may be well to make known to the reader the process by which the Indians prepare this kind of meat. Buffalo and deer are the kind of animals the most suit- able for furnishing dry meat, which is generally prepared in summer time. After having killed and skinned the game, it is cut into large thin slices which are dried in the sun. This meat thus becomes very ha^ 1, and, pro- tected from moisture, it resists decompositioi The Indi- ans employ the same process to preserve fish. He who buys meat and fish thus prepared, from the Indians, for his own use, must not be very fastidious as to cleanliness. I have often seen Indian and half-breed families trample with their bare feet upon the dry meat intended for sale. In order to be easily eaten, dry meat ought to undergo a long preparation ; but when travelling, as time is limited, it in often eaten without being pre- pared, and in such a case good teeth are necessary. Although travelling rapidly, it was only in the after- noon of the next day that we reached the road leading to Buffalo Lake ; and the horses being tired, we camped early between the two Pipestone Creeks. To my travelling companions who had good teeth, it was indifferent whether the meat was tender or not ; but as for me, it vrw otherwise, I was suffering so much from r Six Years in the Canadian North- West. 117 ' my teeth that I could hardly eat any of it. My friends were very much concerned about this, and asked them- selves, how I would be able to live until our arrival at Tail Creek. I calmed their fears, saying that I would be able to manage very well for two or three days. After supper, to their great surprise, I drew from the cart, a large piece of bacon which I cut into small slices. They watched me without saying anything, wondering what I intended to do with it. Then I put the bacon in the kettle which I filled up with water and placed on the fire. " What are you doing there ? " said Constable C» "I am cooking some bacon," I answered. " Do you know what you are doing, foolish man ? If yea eat all that salt meat, you will not find water enough to quench your thirst," said he. "Never you mind, I shall not drink more than usual,' saiti I. " My meat will be preferable to yours, which to my mind, resembles parchment more than meat." I rendered the bacon less salt by several times renewing the water in the kettle, and allowed it to cook well. When it had cooled, I gave some of it to my friends to taste, and they acknowledged that bacon thus prepared was not very salt, and consequently preferable to dry meat. About ten o'clock the following morning, we reached Peace Hills. From here, a slightly sloping plain extends as far as Battle River. This region, which is exceedingly fertile, is yet almost uninhabitated. The reason of this is that settlers who go to the North'West, find fertile 1 18 Six Years in the Oanadian Iforth- West. lands without going so far. But the Battle River region will not long remain unoccupied, for it will soon be completely transformed by the emigrants which will flock there when the Pacific Railroad which will pass through or near it is completed. In the afternoon we crossed Battle River, and, at night- fall, we reached Red Deer Lake, near the shore of which we nitched our tent for the night. Considering its little depth, this lake is in reality only a large pond ; and, at that time, being covered with ducks, Constable C. thought he would have rare sport, and, at the same time, add to our stock of provisions. Accordingly, he set out at once ; but he bum't his powder to no purpose, the game remaining beyond the range of his gun. Being then only about thirty miles from Tail Creek, we set out early the next day, in hope of reaching our destination before night. A little before noon, we came to a bifurcation, from which Bufialo Lake was presented to our view. The road to the left was the same that I had followed the preceding year, and the road to the right, which goes by Tail Creek, was the one we had now to travel. This route being entirely unknown to me, it fell to Constable C.'s lot to act again as guide ; but he was no more successful than in the first place, for, as we went along, we came to so many bifurcations that we went astray three times, losing thus so much time, that it was midnight, when we arrived at the hills that overlook Fort Tail Creek. As we had to descend a very steep hill, and the night being very dark, Sub-constable M. suggested ii Six Years in the Canadian North- West 119 that we should leave the cart there until morning, and proceed to the Fort with the horses. But Constable C. who, I must say, was full of expedients, and was ac- quainted with the road, tied the wheels of the cart by means of ropes in order to prevent them from turning ; and, in that manner, we reached the valley without acci- dent. Very soon after, we were knocking at the gate of the Fort ; and the men in charge there, who were in bed. hearing our calls, got up and let us in, being much pleased at our arrival What foUowed next was an abundant repast which they quickly prepared, and which caused us to forget our recent privations. Fort Tail Creek was then occupied by four men, one of them, Constable P. being in charge of the detachment. Having enlisted in the Mounted Police in 1873, he distin- guished himself during the campaign of 1874, and his skill in buffalo-hunting added to his reputation, and caixsed him to be sumamed " Buffalo Slayer." He was a man twenty-five years of age. His high stature and stoutness denoted herculean strength, and his piercing eye and martial appearance gave him an air of command that I shall never forget. After questioning us about Fort Saskatchewan, he began to extol the region about Tail Creek. But for ray part, I could not see what there was to extol, as it resembled a desert. However, Constable? did not stop there ; from the geography of "Red Deer River he passed suddenly to the brilliant future in store for the North- West. He gave a minute description of the prin- cipal agricultural and manufacturing machines then in 120 Six Years in the Canadian Korth-Weat. existence, and sketched with extraordinary clearness the lives of their inventors. From the applied sciences he passed rapidly to the exact sciences, and from practice to theory. In short. Constable P. held us entranced for two hours by his reasoning, and his strong and eloquent voice. This long and learned dissertation, to which my com- panions listened with open mouth, had ajstonished me. I could not undertand how such a young brain could con- tain so much knowledge, and asked myself why this "science vivante " had come to exile himself in the North- West. This was a mystery, and, feeling myself invisibly attracted by this wonderful man, I resolved to solve the mystery. Therefore, after many fruitless attempts to sleep, I got up early in the morning and directed my steps towards his quarters ; but seeing that he was yet in bed, I went to visit the neighbourhood while awaiting his awakening. Foiu Tail Creek consists of three buildings only, whose walls are made of logs placed one above another, and the roofs formed of poles covered with hay and earth. When these roofs have not sufficient pitch, the rain easily penetrates them. Two of these buildings (one used for men's quarters and the other for a stable) are surrounded by a stockade made of stakes. As for the third house, it was the dwelling of the constable or the officer, as the case might be, in charge of the forts. Situated in a bushy valley. Fort Tail Creek is overlooked by hills covered with fir trees. On the right, flows Red Deer River, on f Six Years in the Canadian North- West. 121 > the left, Tail Creek. But the site is not a good one ; for, in time of war, the surrounding hills would afford a refuge, and protection to the enemy. After a long walk I returned to the Fort, and thinking that our savant was up, I turned my steps towards his house, the door of which I found open. He was not within, and I thought that, like me, he had gone for a walk. I was about to retrace my steps, when, on a shelf, I saw a row of books, and, being curious to inspect the works of Constable P., I entered, thinking that the scar- city of books in the North-West would justify the liberty I took: While I was engaged in glancing through the • books, which for the most part dealt with mathematical, physical, and natural sciences. Constable P. returned, and, without waiting for any explanation about my intru- sion in his house, he took a seat and sat down with an air of complete satisfaction, inviting me to do the same. " Sub-constable D.," said he after a pause, " you cannot imagine how glad I am that ^'^ou have come here. I am, at present, engaged in very important scientific studies, and your competency in those matters will be of great service to me." " It is a mistake," I replied, " if you have been told that I " " Hear me to the end," said he. " This morning I went to your place to ask you what day we could begin to- gether our scientific studies. I was informed that you were out ; but here you are at last, and I now propose to you my project, do you accept it ? " "I cannot," said I, 8 122 Six Tears in the Canadian North- West. " for the very reason that the subjects you propose to study are beyond my reach. What brings me here is the desire of gaining from your society the knowledge of which you gave us a general idea last night." " What is that ? " said he, " It is you that will be the teacher and I the student." I thought, at first,- that Constable P. was only jesting, but seeing that he was resolved to study, I concluded that he was making a serious proposal. ^ " I have," said he, " deeply studied geometry and the other elementary mathematical sciences ; but convinced that, in order to build a house, it is necessary to lay a solid foundation, I am of the opinion that we should begin at the beginning." " Let it be well understood," said I, " that I am your pupil ; on this condition only I accept your offer. How- ever, if my very limited knowledge of those subjects can be of use to j'ou, I am at your disposal ; but I prefer re- ceiving lessons to giving them." The lessons being arrangeci, I departed, promising to return in the evening. That day, time glided very slowly for me, hours appeared days, for I was anxious to see how such a scholar would handle the propositions of geometry. The time appointed for the lessons came at last, and I re- paired to the house of Constable P., who appeared mean- time to have reviewed the lessons. " Well," said he, " let us begin with geometry." He enunciated the first proposition in pl^ne geometry, and then passed to the demonstration which he uttered 1 Six Years in the Canadian North-West 123 with great volubility, but of which I understood nothing. At my request, he repeated the demonstration as many as three times, but at the end, I was no more advanced than at the beginning. " I am really disappointed," said he, " that you do not understand. Let us go on with the second proposition." It was the same with the second as with the first — I un- derstood nothing ; and at that moment, having yet no doubt about the scientific ability of Constable P. I concluded that he had a way of reasoning that a common man could not follow. As we went daily on with our studies, I gradually began to think that his knowledge of the sub- jects on which he was discoursing with so much volu- bility was very superficial; but I had then no time to verify it, as he received orders to repair at once to Fort McLeod. I had forgotten him, when, a year afterwards, he wrote me a letter, reminding nie of our studies at Tail Creek, and proposing that we should continue them by correspondence. Tn order to be agreeable, as well as to clear up my doubts concerning his scientific attainments, I accepted. He answered me by the next mail, sending me absurd solutions of problems, and ridiculous questions. I had, therefore, to give up corresponding with this savant, comprehensible only to those whose brains have lost their balance. CHAPTER XIII. Constable P. is Succeeded by Constable S., of Fort Saskatchewan— Winter Dwelling of Buffalo Hunters — State of the Region between the Rivers Bow and Red Deer during the Winter — Sad fate of a Courageous Missionary — Inquest of a Supposed Murder perpetrated at Tail Creek — My Return to Fort Saskatchewan. CONSTABLE P. was succeeded by Constable S., of Fort Saskatchewan. He had not, like his prede- cessor, the mathematical fever, but he was a good non- commissioned officer, and ever mindful of the duties he had to fulfil. In the North-West Territories the autumn is by far the most pleasant season of the year. The temperature is mild, and with the exception of the infallible snow-storm of September, there is raally no bad weather. As this is the most favourable season for travelling, and the sur- roundings of Tail Creek were very solitary, we frequently made excursions to the plains which afforded us very agreeable recreation. About the middle of October the Indian and half-breed hunters began to arrive ; the former having no carts but using their squaws (whom they load like wild beasts of burden), their horses and dogs to transport their baggage ; as for the half-breeds, they carried their luggage in Red Six Years in the Canadian North- West. 125 River carta, and as many of them had been there the pre- vious year their cabins were ready to receive them, and they had only to take their goods in and settle down ; but the new comers had to build, and this is the way they set about it : Selecting a site well sheltered from the wind, and amply supplied with wood and water, they felled some trees, and placing the trunks one above another, formed the walls of the new building. The roof was con- structed with poles placed in rows and covered with hay and earth. Holes were cut in the walls for door and win- dows, the latter being closed in when so required with the skins of animals ; while the doors were made of slabs of wood split with the axe and fastened together with thongs ot rawhide. The chimney was constructed with unbumed bricks composed of hay and mud, and the floor formed of hewed logs completed the carpenter work. This done, they plastered the crevices well with mud and the cabin was ready for occupation. The ease with which they are constructed, and the wanderings of game, will account for the number of these cabins to be found throughout the whole North-West. The surroundings of Fort Tail Creek were soon occu- pied by three or four hundred persons, and night was made hideous by the deafening cries and repeated pow- wows of the Indians and the no less discordant screeches of the violins of the half-breeds, who vied with the Indians in turning our hitherto peaceful valley into a very bedlam. 120 Six years in the Canadian North- West Winter came at last in all its rigour, and snow fell in abundance early in November. Then followed the storms common in those regions and which usually arose very suddenly, — so suddenly indeed, that the bands of hunters roaming over the plains in search of buffalo were often in danger of being overcome before reaching shelter. The following episode will illustrate what not unfrequently occurs : — Some six years ago, a missionary named McDougal, who had resided in that country for about twenty-five years, started to visit an Indian camp about twenty miles distant, and which he expected to reach the same day. Mounted on his best horse, he yet could proceed but slowly, as the snow was a foot deep and he had no track to guide him. He had, however, advanced several miles when suddenly the wind arose, the sky became overcast with clouds, and in less time than it takes to write the fact the darkness of midnight and a blinding snow-storm of indescribable violence was upon him. Unable to see his way, he wandered at randoL.., and, at last, overcome with the cold, he lost control of himself entirely, fell from his horse and was soon overcome by that fatal sleep which knows no awaking. The return of the horse which, instinctively found his way to his own- stable, gave the alarm, and only after the most diligent search by the Indians, was the body of this unfortunate missionary recovered. Our sojourn at Tail Creek was gliding slowly and mon- otonously by, when an event occurred which produced 31 Six years in the Canadian North- West. 127 a great sensation in our little colony. A report was cir- culated that a half-breed woman had murdered her foster child. Constable S. immediately instituted an inquest, and, as I spoke English and French, I was instructed to bring all the inhabitants to the Fort. A difficult task, the>eader will say, and so I thought at first ; but, going about my work with calm assurance, I was surprised to find that both half-breeds and Indians would follow me like so many sheep. The inquest was prosecuted rigorously for two days, but no evidence whatever could be produced to criminate the woman ; and we were forced to the conclusion that the re- port was a calumny, which had for its origin a malignant supposition which, passing from mouth to mouth, had grown to such huge dimensions as to make the unfortun- ate woman appear a murderer. In the month of March, 1877, 1 had orders to return to Fort Saskatchewan ; and as the melting snow rendered the roads difficult for horses to travel. Constable T., at the expense of the Government, hired a dog-team by which I was to be conveyed to Battle River, and from whence a similar team was to take me on to Edmonton. The time appointed for my departure was midnight, as the snow would be hardened by the night-frost, and, punctual to the time, the half-breed, who was the best runner on Tail Creek, arrived at the Fort. I took my seat on the sled, and we started at full speed. As runners, the half-breeds consider themselves superior to the whites ; and after having proceeded about five 128 Six Years in the dmadian KoHh- West. miles, feeling somewhat chilled, I thought I would warm myself, and put the speed of my driver to the test at the same time. So, jumping out of the sled, I gave the dogs a few laishes with the whip, and away they went at a gallop, leaving us far in the rear. We ran on and on, until the half-breed could continue no longer, but taking advantage of a bend in the road, he ran across the prairie and in that way got in front of the dogs. Jumping into the sled, he put whip to the dogs, le:.ving me to make my way as best I could. Redoubling my speed, I ran for a mile or two, and finally, the dogs slackening their speed, I overtook them, and getting into the sled, rode to Battle River which we reached at sunrise. Discharging my man, I hired another team, and set out for Edmonton that afternoon, and travelling on through the night, I ar- rived there about three o'clock in the morning. Here, taking a short rest, I set out for Fort Saskatchewan, and finally reached there the same day. k '.» 1 e CHAPTER XIV. Good Results from Stationing A Division at Furt Saskatchewan— The Trial and Execution of a Cannibal — My Resolve to Retiurn to France — A Theat. rical Performance and Ball at Edmonton in 1880— St. Albert— Lost !— A Nigh| on the Plains— Found a Friend— Frozen Feet. THE quartering of A Division at Fort Saskatchewan, had the good effect of maintaining order through- out the whole region comprised between Victoria and the Rocky Mountains, in one direction, and the rivers Bow and Peace in the other. From the year 1875 to 1879, several arrests were made, chiefly among the Indians ; and oome of them were guilty of the most heinous crimes, Among the number were four murderers. Two of these murderers were arrested in 1877, but died in prison with- out being tried for their crimes. The third was a canni- bal, who had killed and eaten his wife and children, and the fourth, a father who had murdered his son. An eyewitness of the execution of the cannibal, the first that had taken place in the North-West, I will here relate the story of his most horrible crime, his arrest, treatment, confession, and execution. Kakisikutchin (a Cree word signifying "swift runner") was the name of the cannibal. In the autumn of 1878 , with his wife and children, he repaired to the left bank 130 Six Years in the Canadian Xorth-West. of Sturgeon Creek that he might hunt in that neighbour- hood durinsr the winter. His efforts were successful, and therefore there was no real cause for his crime. The only way we can account for it is this : Acts of canni- balism are said to be of frequent occurrence in the Polar Regions. When game cannot be found, the Indians are first driven to it by want, and after having once tasted human flesh, an irresistible desire follows to eat it again- Probably Kakisikutchin was one of this class, for with abundance of provisions in the wigwam, and without provocation, he first cjlew and ate his youngest child, then the rest of his children in turn, and finally his wife met the same fate. In the spring of 1879, he returned to his tribe at Egg Lake, and, surprised at seeing him return alone, he was asked what had become of his wife and children. From his evasive answers they concluded a crime must have been committed, and they imparted their fears to Inspector Jarvis who caused him to be arrested and imprisoned at Fort Saskatchewan. An inquest was instituted, and the remains of the victims discovered. Though the Indian hr.i at first denied his guilt, when confronted with their ron.ains, he confessed. His crime so exasperated the Ixt morning, we put off, and soon reached the lower extremity of the islands, from wheuQQ 162 Six Years in the Canadian Noiih-West. the roar of the rapids is distinctly heard. We easily ran these, and landed at the foot of them, to take breakfast. About ten o'clock we arrived in sight of Mosquito Point, in the neighbourhood of which there are some sand- banks. The river, which is here very wide, divides into two branches. We took the one to the right, according to the directions of Mr. Goodfellow, and on turning Mosquito Point, we were assailed by a very strong wind, which, blowing against the current, raised formidable waves. We advanced very slowly, and therefore despaired of reaching Cumberland the same evening. The branch of the river, which we had entered, was be- coming more and more narrow, and my travelling com- panions (especially Mr. R.) were of the opinion that we had taken the wrong route, and it would be necessary for us to retrace our steps. I interfered in order to express an opinion altogether different. " We are," said I, " only following the directions given us. If we are not in the right way, we have been de- ceived, which is a very improbable supposition, since the information obtained up to the present moment, although emanating from different sources, agrees in every point." " I am far from thinking" replied Mr. R, " that Mr. Good- fellow and the inhabitants of Prince Albert wanted to de- ceive us ; but I notice that the river is gi*adually getting narrower, and is taking us to the south, instead of to- wards the east as the map indicates." " You forget," said I " th. « we are just rounding Mosquito Point, and, in that case I would not be at all surprised, even if we turned to- Six Years in tJie Canadian Korth-West 103 wards the south. It is impossible to mark on the map all the windings of a river." My arguments were not able to convince them. For a long time, I opposed every thought of turning biick > but, obliged to yield to the opinion of the majority, I in- sisted on waiting; half an hour, promising that if, at the end of that time, nothing indicated that we were on the right way, I would concur in their opinion. They regret- fully granted me that request ; but they had no reason to repent of it, for soon we perceived on the right of the river, some piles of wood which the Hudson Bay Com- pany had prepared for the steamboats. We were there- fore on the right way. By retracing our steps, we would have taken, at Mosquito Point, the branch to the left which would have led us into Sturgeon River which we had been particularly cautioned to avoid. The day was drawing to a close, and we had not yet perceived the cabin of which Mr. Goodfellow had spoken of. It was strange ; for we had travelled rapidly the whole day, and, according to the map we had with us, the distance from Fort S. la Come to Birch Islands is equal or about equal to that between these islands and the cAbin. Mr. M. and G. expressed the opinion that we had already passed it. As for Mr. R., he still adhered to the idea that wo were astray, and that we would be obliged to go back. He therefore was not a little sur- prised next day, after an hour's rowing, to see on the left bank of the river a cabin built of hewn logs. This struc- ture is used to receive the s\ipplies brought by the North- 164 Six Years in the Canadian North-Wesi. cote, and intended for Fort, Cumberland situated on the lake of that name. This Hudson Bay Company's Fort is connected with the cabin above mentioned by a small stream hardly deep enough to carry small boats. Mr. R. proposed that we should row up to Fort Cum- berland and lay in another supply of provisions ; but we thought it better to continue our journey, and try to reach Pas Mission that evening. From Cumberland to Pas Mission, the banks of the river were completel}'' submerged, and crowded with float- ing trunks of trees, having the form of rafts. It was on these logs that we prepared and took our meals, and this is how these rafts are formed. At the time of high water, in the part of the river, lying between Prince Albert and the Rocky Mountains, gi'eat land slips occur on the steep banks, whose trees are uprooted, and carried away by the current. In those places where the river is en a level with the banks, it is enough that one end of the tree be- comes entangled in the aquatic plants in order to stop the others, and form a kind of raft. Night came without anything occuning to indicate the proximity of Pas Mission. Thinking that it was not prudent to camp on the rafts, we continued our journey, and towards ten o'clock, we saw some fire on the right bank of the river. We steered towards it, and found , there were some Indians camping there. Mr. M. asked them how far we were from Pas Mission. They replied that we would soon bo there. With the Indians " soon'' mav signify two days as well as two hpura. Midnight Six Years in the Canadian North- West. 165 arrived and no dwelling was in sight.: We began to think we had passed Pas Mission, and, at all events, it was time to take some rest. So, after having landed, and iastaned our boat to a tree, we went to sleep in the bot- tom of the boat. At two o'clock next morning we set out again, and, at daylight, we came in sight of some houses and a large lake. Taking this lake for Cedar Lake and the houses for the Indian Colony, we started towards these dwellings in hope of buying some fish from the Indians. We found nobody within the house we entered, but the fire burning on the hearth proved to us that the owners were not far oft'. After waiting there for a while and being resolved to wait no longer, we were starting towards another house when we saw two Indians coming towards us. They were returning from fishing and had with them a great quantity offish, some of which they exchanged with us for flour. We asked them if that large sheet of water was Cedar Lake. " My white brothel's are distant from it," answered the oldest of the two. " What my brothers see is not a lake but. a plain which the river overflows when the water is high. My brothers see at the extremity of this the houses of Pas Mission." Aft€r breakfast we took leave of the Indians and re- sumed our journey, and an hour later we landed on the right bank, in front of the Hudson Bay Company's fort, CHAPTER XVII. Future of this Colony— A Second Lesson on Geography completing the First — A Bad Adviser— Gone Astray— Lost ! — One Pastime as Good as Another — On the Bight Boad Again — Cedar Lake— Our Arrival at Babbit Point. THE Pas Mission Settlement is one of the most popu- lous in the North- West Territories, The inhabi- tants, almost aU Indians and half-breeds, dwell on the banks of the river, in cottages built upon rocks^ and are thus safe from the floods. The Hudson Bay Company's Fort, which is the landing place of the Steamboats, is sit- uated at the mouth of the Carrot River, which waters a vast and fertile region, and it is my opinion that, in a very short time, the tide of emigration will flew towards those parts, where a Province will probably be formed with Pas Mission for its capital. Having landed, we followed the directions of Mr. Good- fellow, and went towards the Hudson Bay Company's Fort, where we met its director, who gave us a hearty welcome. Some travellers have related, and still relate, that the ofticers of the Hudson Bay Company are inhos- pitable ; but this is a sheer slander. The director of the Fort, who frequently goes to Grand F^epids, gave us very definite information about the part of the river we had Six Years in tlie Canadian North-West. 167 still to travel. He was quite surprised that we had dared to descend Cole Rapids in such a frail bark. " You have yet to run," said he, " the most dangerous and imposing rapids, and if you are afraid of forgetting my instructions, I will write them down for you." "It is not necessary," we replied, "give them orally." After a moment's reflection, he continued : " From here to Cedar Lake, the banks being submerged, it will be dif- ficult for you to camp. It is already nine o'clock ; I doubt very much whether you can reach the lake before night. Five or six miles from here, the river divides into two branches of which you will take the smaller to the right. By following the other you would also arrive at your des- tination, but as it is longer, you would lose time use- lessly. After a pretty long course, these two branches unite again. Farther on, the river separates into several branches which unite to only separate again. Always take the first branch to the right even if it be smaller than the others which lead into immense lakes formed by the over- flowing of the river. If you travel during the night, let one of you keep watch in order to avoid going astray. As for houses, you will only meet with the Indian Settle- ment of Cedar Lake. If the weather be fine, you can enter the lake without danger, and coasting along the left shore, you will thus arrive at the entrance of a large bay, whence you will see Rabbit Point, which appears to be separated from the right bank, by a canal through which the current of the river flows. You will steer for this point, and after turning it, you will follow the left 168 Six Years in ilte Canadian North- West. shore. Two or three hours afterwards, you will see that the river divides into two branches. Take the one to the left. Beware of taking the other, which would lead you into rapids where you would infallibly founder. Af- ter entering the left branch, you will hear the roaring of the *' Demi- Charge" which is at the entrance of Cross Lake. Advance carefully, and when near the rapids, land on the left bank, then following a foot-path which extends along the shore, you will let the boat descend by means of two ropes attached, one to the stern, the other to the prow. Before entering Cross Lake, the river separates into three branches, forming as many rapids ; but that which you will follow by keeping along the shore, is the least dangerous. You will re-embark at the foot of the " Demi-Charge," and, after crossing the lake, you will reach Little Red-Rock Rapid, which you will run without diiliculty. From there you will hear the noise of the Red Rock Rapid, which you will run, keeping close to the right shore. From the foot of this last rapid, you will see, at some distance, on the left bank, the Hudson Bay Company's Fort, situated above Grand Rapids, which is the end of your journey." The directions of the director of Pas Mission com- pleted those of Mr. Goodfellow, who had not spoken of the rapids lying on our route. j!i.i ten o'clock we set out again, and as the director said, we soon arrived at the point where the river forms two branches. That to the right is so small, that we thought it was not the right one. We took it, however, Six Years in the Canadian North- West. 169 in order to follow the instructions received, and we did not regret it, for it proves to be the right one. Two hours later, we rejoined the left branch. According as the distance from Fas Mission increases, the banks of the river become gradually lower. At night- fall, we wished to camp, but there was not a single tree to which we could moor the boat. Around us, lay an immense lake, streaked here and there with strips of aquatic plants. After deliberating as to the best course to pursue, we agreed to travel all night, allowing the boat to drift; only, it was decided that, not to deviate from our instructions, we would keep watch, each in his turn. It fell to my lot to be the first on watch, and after me, came Mr. R. I had just gone to sleep, when he awakened us suddenly, exclaiming that we had entered a channel to the left, and that consequently, it was necessary to go back. " One soon finds out when Mr. R. is on sentry." said Mr. M. For two consecutive nights, we have hardly slept. Can't we, at least, rest this one night ? " " If I have awakened you," replied Mr. R., " it is be- cause we have just taken a direction which we were carefully recommended to avoid." " We have just taken ! " retorted Mr. M., " say rather, * I have taken. It is you who are on guard. Besides, by following the channel which, like the others, must end at Cedar Lake, we cannot help arriving there. In the meantime, talk no more about directions given or re- 11 / 170 Six Vears in the Canadian Nmili-WeM. ceived ; if the inhabitants of this country heard us. they would imagine that we don't know anything." I was ah'eady at the oars, but after the objurgation of Mr. M., I did not tliink it proper to interfere, in order to return. A short while afterwards. Mr. R. awoke me,. say- ing to me in French, " there i.s only three feet of water." I got up and asked him what he thought of the situation. " We have done a veiy foolish thing," said he, *' in follow- ing the advice of Mr. M., I greatly fear we shall repent of it." I took the oars, in order to go faster, for, according as we advanced, the current became less rapid. The depth of the water decreased in the .same proportion, and soon the boat touched bottom. Notwithstanding the dark- ness which enveloped us, we thought we saw before us, a vast sheet of water which Mr. M. declared to be Cedar Lake. " You see now" said he, " that by following anj- direc- tion whatever, one always comes out all right. Now rest yourselves. At day break wc shall steer for the Indian settlement where we will buy enough fish for the whole day. I hope to breakfast to-morrow on board the Col- ville at Grand Rapids." At daybreak, I got up first, to see this lake so extolled by Mr. M. But what was my disappointment, when, in- stead of a lake, I beheld vast marshes covered at intervals with aquatic plants. I awoke my comrades, who were astonished to hear this news. We held a consultation, before taking any definite action. I proposed that we \ Six Years in the Canadian NoHh-West. 171 should g( back, although it would be a half day's work ; but they said that, since we were so far, we must ad- vance, and if possible, open a way through the aquatic plants. Obliged to yield to the opinion of the majority, we resumed our journey rowing towards the right, hoping to find soon the bed of the river. But according as we advanced, I noticed that the water, muddy as it was, was becoming gradually clearer like marshy waler. From this, I inferred that, instead of approaching the river, we were going away from it, and I stated my fears to my travelling? companions ; but they were so excited, that they did not cease to advance, until, stopped by the reeds, they told me that they resigned themselves entirely to me. As I had rowed the preceding day, and the greater part of the night, I felt fatigued ; so, giving the oars to the others, I took the helm, and announced that we would turn back. My decision was received without a murmur ; for it was the wisest course to take after so many fruit- less attempts. As we were retracing our steps, I thought. I saw, at a great distance, some trunks of trees piled one above the other. I then remembered those logs which strew the banks of the river between Cumberland and Pas Mission, and below this last settlement. From this, I inferred that if they were trees, the branch of the river that had drifted them was not far off. Nevertheless, fearing I might be mistaken, I abstained from imparting my reflections to my companions, but they soon made the remark we were going to the right instead of going back, as I had announced on taking the management of the 172 Six Years in tlie Canadian Nortfi-West boat. " In ten minutes, at the latest," I exclaimed, " we shall enter the bed of the river. That surprises you, but you have the proof before your eyes." " What proof?" said Mr.M. opening his eyes, and, look- ing alternately to the right and to the left, forward and backward, he declared that he did not see anything. " Do you see those trunks of trees ? " said I, " Yes, but what have they to do with the river," said he. " You shall see," said I. Hardly had we passed these logs, when a swift current imparted a great speed to the boat. We were on a branch of the river, and seeing a thicket on the other bank, we steered towards it in order to take breakfast. The thicket was submerged, and we were obliged to prepare our meal as well as we could upon the floating tree trunks. After breakfast which consisted of tea, bread and but- ter, a discussion arose between Mr. M. and R., concerning the cause of our going astray, which Mr. G. put an end to by observing that we were not yet out of danger, and that it was imprudent to lose time in useless discussions, which might be better employed in trying to reach the Indians of Cedar Lake, where we could purchase fish. As Mr. G. observed, we were not yet at the end of our troubles. A little farther the branch of the river in which we were then divides into two others. We made the mis- take of taking the left, and soon found ourselves in the midst of a rapid which carried us to a lake several leagues in circumference. We determined to coast along the shores in order to find an outlet ; but, after rowing several ti olr Six Years in tlte Canadian North- West. 173 hours without success, encountering nothing but reeds, which encircled the lake, we came to the conclusion that it was better to land somewhere to take some rest. The difficulty was to tind a dry spot, and therefore I advised my friends that we should row towards the middle of the lake, whence we could have a better view. My sugges- tion was followed, and before long, we perceived, some miles ahead of us, a series of fir thickets. In the first grove, to the right, stood a gigantic fir, whose mid branches had been lopped off. " Surely," said Mr. R., " he who climbed that tree, did not take such dangerous exercise merely to amuse him- self. He had a serious motive for doing so." We steered towards this grove, and it was well we did, for, half an hour later, a violent wind arose which raised the waves, and exposed us to the greatest danger until we approached the grove, which was surrounded with reeds, through which it was impossible to propel the boat. We were then sheltered from the storm, and Mr. R, Mr. G., and I, fatigued by continued labour during two days and two nights, fell asleep. Fortunately, Mr. M. kept watch for us. He soon woke us up, exclaiming that the wind was carr^'^ing us out into open water, and that we must land at any cost. After sailing for some time along the reeds we foimd a passage which conducted us to the grove. It was in reality a kind of island, about two miles in circumference, twelve feet high, and formed of layers of rock. This was the first time that we had camped on a dry place since leaving Fort a la Corne. So, 174 Six Years in tJie Canadian North-West. forgetting our precarious condition, I took my blankets and lay down in the shade of a fir. Judging by the deep marks which the waves have left on the shore, the grove which afforded us a shelter was formerly an island situated in a permanent lake, whose disappearance can be explained by the two following causes. Lake Winnipeg and Cedar Lake have a difference of sixty feet between their levels, and are only about thirty miles distant from each other ; hence the rapids which lie between them. But, between these two lakes, ihe bed of the river being constantly excavated by the waters, this produces a corresponding fall in the level of Cedar Lake. Moreover, by taking account of the successive alluvial deposits from the river, one sees that a time will come when Cedar Lake will have completely disappeared. The .same causes will contribute to the disappearance of Lake Winnipeg, whose waters, escaping by the Nelson River, How into Hudson Bay, after a descent of seven hundred and ten feet in a course of three hiindred and eighty miles. One can, therefore, affirm that the grove in which we were camped, was formerly a permanent island, situated in Cedar Lake, which extended as far as C*umberland> judging from the alluvial deposits which cover that re'jion, and its submersion by the river during the time of the Hoods. Before long, this region will very probably furnish rich pasture lands. I had slept a few hours when I felt a hand iigl r>* Six Years in the Canadian North- West. 175 Iffc IS touch ray shoulder, and, on turning, T saw Mr. M., who, with a smile on his lips, informed me that Mr. R., from the top of a tree, had seen the NoHhcote ascending the river. We were, therefore, not far from l)eing on the right road. I got up at one ^ i nd advised an immediate depar- ture. Mr. G., 1 edifying the version of Mr. M., told me that Mr. R. had seen the smoke of the steamboat. But Mr. R,, coming down from his observatory, jut short our preparations for departure by declaring that he was not sure of having seen the smoke. We therefore pitched the tent for the night and prepared enough bread for two or three days in order to start early the next morning. Dur- ing the night an impetuous wind arose which exposed us to unexpected dangers. The trees, whose roots were not very deep, were violently shaken and threatened to crush us in their fall. It would therefore have been imprudent to remain under the tent, so we went out and did not re- turn until the storm was over. At day-break we got ready to depart. The wind was yet very high ; the waves breaking with fury upon the rocks of the islands, and the sky was overaust with dark lowering clouds which were going to resolve into rain. Mr, R. and Mr. G. suggested to wait till the storm was over, but Mr. M. and I were of the opinion that it was better to face the waves than hunger. Mr. G. finally con- curred with us, on condition that we should steer towards a row of islands which appeared to be about thre»' miles distant. So Mr. R. took the helm, and we set out. As long as we were sailing amongst the high gra«se^ which 176 Six Year» in tfw. Canadian North- West. suiTOunded the island, tlie waves did not seriouslv annoy us, and we congratulated ourselves on our decision ; but barely had we entered the sheet of water which separated us from our goal, when the skiff' was tossed about by for- midable waves. I don't know what my friends thought, but as for me, if I had not feared to draw down upon me a lecture from Mr. M., I would have proposed to turn back. In this, I was obeying the dictates, not of fear, but of prudence. For if the boat had capsized, even admit- ting that we might have saved ourselves by swimming, we would have lost everything, and rendered it iinpossr :. to continue our journey. We maintained absolute silence rowing vigorously, and keeping our eyes fi.xed on the island, where we wished to land. In some places, the water was no more than seven feet deep, and the bottom was often visible between two consecutive waves. The boat would disappear suddenly in the midst of the waves, to rise immediately afterwards and again disappear. Soon the wind became so vif;lent, we were not able to go any farther; so we turned obli(|uely towards the left, and, in a short time, we were sailing through the tall grass, surrounding some islands, upon one of which we landed, and found that it afforded us a sure slielter, although a rapid cunent was running around it. Once having pitched the tent, Mr. R. and I started in search of a channel, notwithstanding the storm, which w}is redoubling its violence. Our intention was to cir- cumnavigate t)je islands, hoping to find some branch of the river. We had grounbit 180 Six Years in tlie Canadian North- West. Point from which we were separated by an hour's sail. We agreed on the last course, fearing that, if we followed the first, we might remain there blockaded for several days by the bad weather. As we were starting, we re- solved to keep close to the shore, in case the boat should capsize ; but, on account of the numerous small bays situated on our way, we soon perceived that, in following such a courae, we would lose a great deal of time, and therefore resolved to sail before the wind, in a straight line, towards Rabbit Point. The more we advanced, the more threatening the waves became, so much so, that some of them were filling up the boat. The situation was critical, but none of us lost for a moment his " sang- froid," and, while my companions directed the boat, I baled out the water according as it poured in. After exerting our utmost efforts, we at last neared Rabbit Point ; but great disappointment was awaiting us there ; for, instead of the river which we expected to meet, we saw something like a prolongation of the lake where the waves were more menacing than elsewhere. We ap- proached the Point in order to land, but we found this impossible in consequence of the rocks being on a level with the water, and througli which the waves prevented us from guiding the skiff. We therefore had to turn the Point, and struggle with the waves in order to reach, a few hundred yards further on, a sniall bay which could att'ord us shelter. In this we succeeded, and pitched the tent, having resolve*! to await the end of the storm l»eforo resuming our journey. Six Years in the Canadian North-West. 181 According to our instructions, we should have felt the current of the river at reaching Rabbit Point, but this was far from being the case, for, as we have seen, we had to row with all our might to make any headway at all. Therefore Mr. R. was of opinion that this point was not Rabbit Point, but some point on Mossy Portage which separates Cedar Lake from Lake Winnipegoosis. For my part, I did not share his idea, and I accounted for the existence of the formidable waves we had encountered in turning the Point by the wind blowing against the cur- rent and giving, as a most striking proof, the waves with which we were assailed on turning Mosquito Point. Mr. K. ended by thinking I was right, and we all congratula- te 1 ourselves that we were not far from the end of our journey. ^ CHAPTER XVIII. Departure from Rabbit Point— Bad Ailvice and Lost Ap^'ain for Two Days —Demi-Charge Rapid— Pigmy and Giant— Our Arrival at Orand Kapids — A Word on That Colony— Some Advice for the Canadian (iovemniont — Reaching the Far North- West from Winnipeg, via the Lakes Manitoba, WinnipegooHis, and Cedar. THE 9th of July found us encamped at Rabbit Point, and the storm, which abated only for a short time at night, was still raging with fury. Something had to be done, as our provisions 'were almost exhausted, and the best course to pursue we could see was to resume our journey, if we did not wish to die of hunger. Accordingly we set sail keeping along the left shore, as we had been instructed, struggling manfully with the storm. We had been travelling in that manner for an hour, when, a mile ahead, we saw, in a birch canoe, an Indian coming towards us. In our situation this chance meeting was a very wel- come one, for we hoped to obtain from him some informa- tion, and perhaps some provisions. As soon as he was within call, we hailed him ; but whether from fear, or some other motive, he paddled as fast as he could for the bay, which is separated from Cedar Lake only by a half mile portage, thus avoiding a long circuit. After setting out from an island on which we had Six yWirti in the Ganaduin Korth-Weat. 188 (lined, we came directly in sight of alluvial deposits where the sheet of water in which we were travelling from Rab- bit Point, divided in twobraufhes. " My friends," said I, " this alluvial soil is an incontestable proof that we are in the bed of the river. The question is, which of the branches we ought to take. I propose that wo take the one to the left." " I agree with you," said Mr. R., " for, notwithstanding the wind and the waves, it seems to me that the current is carrying us in that direction. Moreover, in doing .so, we shall only follow our instructions." But Mr. M. expressed a different opinion. Taking the map, he showed us, below Cedar Lake, a small bay which he believed to be the left branch we wanted to take. Therefore he recommended the right branch as being the one we should follow. As Mr. G. appeared indifferent in the matter, the advice of Mr. M. was followed, but on condition, that, if in two or three hours we were not sure of being in the right way, we would return to the delta to take the left branch. Impelled by the wind and the oars, we sailed very quickl}'^ and soon found ourselves among rocky islands, most of them covered with firs, but presenting on their shores no trace of alluvial deposits. This was an infal- lible proof that we were getting further and further away from the bed of the river. I communicated my fears to my travelling companions, but they answered that they would keep the same direction as long as the boat would iloat. 184 Sue Years in tlie Caruidian North-West. Towards evening the sky became cloudy, and the thun< der began to roar in the dbtance ; everything foreboded a violent storm. Our situation became still more critical when Mr. R., who was at the helm, announcetl that he heard the roaring of a cataract. " It is to a certainty the Demi-Charge," said Mr. M., turning towards me, as much as to say we were in the right way. We ceased rowing ; we thought really that we heard in the distance a dull and confused noise. Therefore we steered immediately towards the nearest island in order to land. " What ! " exclaimed Mr. M., making a jump on his seat which almost capsized the skiff, " after having lost more than a week among the islands of Cedar Lake and at Rabbit Point, you want, on account of the Demi-Charge, to lose another day ? I will not consent, and I give you to understand that I will reach Grand Rapids this very night." Without taking any notice of Mr. M.'s protestation.s, we continued to steer towards the island. But what was our astonishment when, the weather clearing up, we tjaw we were travelling in swampy water ; evident proof that we were miles and miles away from the river. Aa for the noise which led us to believe that we were approaching the Demi-Charge, we no longer heard it after the storm. As it was useless to go any farther in that direction, we started on the way back, and, at night-fiedl we camped on a island covered with gigantic fir trees. Mr. R. made an observatory of the highest one, but his efforts to find out Six Years in the Canadian North-West. 185 where wo stood proved unsuccessful on account of the sunounding country boing covered with trees of higher stature. Sleep that night was out of the 'juestion, and how could it be otherwise, having, for provisions, only a few pounds of flour, which, with the strictest economy, would not last more than four days. At half past two, next morning, tvo put off. Mr, M, very much affected l>y the mistake of the preceding day, declared that, from that moment, he would not giv(^ any advice about which way we should, or should not take. We travelled pretty fast as long as we were sailing among islands, but when we came to the open water, our pro- gress was very slow, a.s we had the wind and the waves to contend with ; so that it was only after six hours of hard rowing that we reached the Delta. In leaving this place, Mr. R, demanded the control of the boat for two hours only, promising that if, at the end of that time, we had not reached the Demi-Charge, he would resign his tnist to somebody else. His demand was granted ; and, sailing along the left shore, we carefully scrutinized all the bays which were large enough to conceal an outlet. Be- fore long, we aiTived at the entrance of a bay delineated on the map, having no name, but which I shall call " Hunger Bay," in remembrance of the hunger which wo there experienced. As the entrance of this bay was nar- now, Mr. R. was led to believe the river was running through it, and therefore steered the boat into it. Always coasting the left shore, we went to the farthest end of tlie bay, l)ut there, no outlet was found. These fruitless 12 ^ ^. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) /. t « ^ ^ >/ :> y ^. PJiotographic Sciences Corporation 33 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, NY. 14580 (716,872-4503 <; 1° MS) ^ M.^ \ # % 186 Six Years in the Canadian North-West attempts discouraged at last Mr. R. He declared that he not only renounced the direction of the boat, but the same as Mr. M. the giving of any opinion. This avowal from the mouth of such an energetic man discouraged me not a little, and Mr. G. refusing to take his place, this duty devolved upon me. 1 therefore took the helm, and announced that the day would be devoted to making in- vestigations ; but that if, night having come, we had not found the river again, we would return to the Indian Settlement of Cedar Lake, where we would await the arrival of the Northcote. Aided by the wind, we were soon at the mouth of the bay, whence we turned to the left, steering towards a fir tree with its branches lopped off near the top, exactly like the one we had seen the first day we went astray.* I had remarked similar trees on some of the islands near Rabbit Point and in the vicinity of the Indian Settlement at Cedar Lake. It occurred to me that those lopped trees indicated, perhaps, the channel followed by the boats of the Hudson Bay Co. and I was not mistaken. I learned it afterwards from one of the employees. The more we advanced, the muddier the water became, a proof that we were nearing the bed of the river. " My friends," said I, unable to restrain my joy, " we shall soon arrive at the Demi-Charge." "Stop your everlasting arrive," interrupted Mr. M., " let us rather find out where we are." " Come, Mr. M." said I, " we are all four going to Winnipeg. I offer you a wager : if, in an hour at the most, we have not entered the bed of the Six Years in the Canadian North- West. 187 raX river, on our arrival at Winnipeg, I will pay for a dinner for us four ; otherwise, you shall pay for it." Mr. M. would doubtless have accepted my wager if he had not noticed that the current was becoming percept- ible. The banks, even, were not long in showing them- selves, and we soon arrived at the point where the river divides itself into two branches. According to the in- structions received, we took the left, and now, what occupied our minds was the Demi-Charge which was not far off. We advanced slowly, listening to the least noise, and observing attentively the windings of the river. We were not long before we heard a dull noise in the distance, which was made by the Demi-Charge. " Let us land," said Mr. R, who was at the helm. " After hav- ing twice lost our way, here we are at last safe and sound at the end of our journey. Let us take care not to com- mit any more imprudent acts." "Do you want to make this journey last forever?" ex- claimed Mr. M., starting from his seat. " The rapid is not in sight, and you talk of landing! What for, if you please ? Let us go on, we shall land soon enough." We continued to advance. The rapid was not yet visible, but judging by the noise which was becoming more and more distinct, it could not be very distant Mr. R. insisted upon landing, but Mr. M. obstinately re- fused. Mr. G. and I. remained silent, thinking it would be time enough to decide when we should be in sight of the rapid. 188 Six Tears in the Canadian North-West. " If you want to run the rapid," said Mr. R. at last, " do so at your own risk, I will land." He had hardly spoken these words, when, about 100 yards ahead, appeared the Demi-Charge, nolens-volens we had to advance. " Take the hehn," said Mr. R to Mr. M., " if we meet with any misfortune, you alone will be responsible for it." Mr. M. grew pale, but with admirable sang-froid, he took the helm exclaiming : " pull hard." In the twinkling of an eye, we shot into the midst of boiling, raging, whirl- pools. Sometimes the prow of the boat disappeared in the waves, sometimes the stern. The banks also appeared and disappeared alternately. We rowed with all our might, hardly breathing, the situation was so critical. Before us, rose a column of water several feet high. To avoid it, we turned slightly to the left. But not sufficient- ly to prevent a jet d'eau from partly filling the boat. A little farther, this branch of the river divides into three other branches of which we took the first to the left which is followed by the boats, and is the least danger- ous. We arrived thus at the entrance of Cross Lake, where we landed to empty the boat. "Behold the famous Demi-Charge safely run," exclaimed Mr. M., " if you wish we will also run the Grand Rapids." The enthusiasm of Mr. M. was far from being shared by any one of us, and especially by Mr. R. who, after we had landed, proposed that we should examine the rapid in following along the shore the footpath mentioned by the director of Pas Mission. But the river being then high, Six Years in the Canadian North- West. 189 we found this footpath overflown with the water, and, unable to proceed any farther through the bush, we re- turned to our landing-place. Immediately after dinner, as we were drying our clothes in the sun, which had been wet by the jet d'eau, above ment'oned, we saw two men coming towards us in a birch canoe. One of them was the Indian chief of the tribe at Grand Rapids. ,He is a man of about forty years of age, with a sharp intelligent eye, and very loquacious. The beard, which adorns his chin, shows that some white blood runs in his veins. He informed us that the Northcote had set out from Grand Rapids that morning, and that it would probably anchor that evening at the foot of Red Rock rapid. From where we stood he showed us in fact, on the other side of the lake, a lopped fir tree, and beyond this tree, the smoke of the steamboat. We bought some sturgeon from Lim, and this change of diet was most wel- come, for, on dry bread, we were becoming gradually weak. After the chief had asked us the reason why we came down the river in a rowing boat, he informed us that they were going a little farther up the river to weed some po- tatoes. This surprised not a little Mr. R,, who had not yet recovered from his excitement, and he asked the Indian how they were going to ascend the rapids. " In the canoe, certainly," answered the chit-., surprised at this question. *' In the canoe ! how ? " " By keeping along the bank, you willsee how." 190 Six Years in the Canadian North-West. In fact the Indians got into the canoe and went away, ascending the Derai-Charge, by following the sinuosities of the shore. A bark canoe permits of evolutions impos- sible for heavier crafts. The next day, at five o'clock in the morning, we set out again, steering towards the lopped tree which the Indian chief had pointed out to us, on the other side of the lake. The crossing, which is only of three miles, was effected with- out danger ; for the lake was calm : a rare thing, because the current of the Demi-Charge crosses it completely. In fact, the wind blowing against the current is all that is necessary to produce a storm capable of swamping the largest boats. Hence tlie Indian chief had expressly re- commended us not to set out if there was the least wind. The river leaves the lake by many branches. We took the first to the right, and soon reached Little Red Rock Rapid, which is of little importance, and which we ran without difficulty. From there we heard the roaring of Red Rock Rapid, and a little farther down, on turning a point, we came in view of the Northcote which was ascending the rapid by following the right shore. There was no time to lose ; we immediately steered towards the right bank, rowing with all our might. We succeeded in effecting a landing where the hauling cable of the North- cote was attached. Our way of proceeding did not please, in the least, Mr. M., and he went so far as to threaten to run the rapids alone, but his threats came to nothing, as he had the majority against him. After having been there half an hour, ■ '3 noticed that Six Years in the Canadian North- West. 191 the steamboat did not appear to have stirred ; we there- fore held a council about what course we should pursue. Mr. R. was of opinion that the best for us to do was to wait there, until the Northcote would have ascended the rapid. This certainly was the safest course, but, in fol- lowing it, how long would we have to wait there ? Pro- bably the whole day, and Mr. M. argued that the best thing to do was to resume our journey. To this, we all finally agreed, excepting Mr. R. who resigned to Mr. G. his place at the helm, not wishing to have any share in this mad undertaking. Having all re-embarked, we put off, and, in a few sec- onds, we had reached the rapid. Seen from a distance, our akifF resembled a pigmy running to measure its strength with a giant. Afraid of a collision with the Northcote, we turned obliquely to the left, and by this measure, we ran into the heart of the rapid, where we re- ceived such shocks that we forgot the preceding tossings. The boat was carried to the summit of the waves in a perpendicular direction, and plunged afterwards into the abyss whence it emerged to mount the next wave. The banks of the river appeared and disappeared in turns, and we shot by the steamer like an arrow, at a distance of about three hundred feet from her. The passengers, qui|,e surprised to see four men resembling brigands, descend the rapids in such a frail bark, began to speculate as to the result of our undertaking. Some urged that we were going to founder, but most of them had hopes of our final success. 192 Six Years in the Canadian North- West. Having anived at the foot of the rapid, we perceived, on the left bank, the Fort of the Hudson Bay Company, which is situated above the Grand Kapids. The wharf of the Northcote is located here, and here ended our adven- turous prank. As soon as we landed, the director of the establishment came towards us, thinking that we were part of the crew of the Nortlicote, and that we were the bearers of news from the boat. But he soon discovered his mistake. Our tattered clothes and worn out shoes gave us the appear- ance of four desperadoes who wanted to take possession of the Fort. This was, I think, the opinion of the director, judging by the frightened glances which he cast to- wards the houses of the Company's employees, as if to implore assistance. We soon reassured him by telling him that he should not judge by appearances, and that all we wanted was to buy some provisions. The news of our arrival spread rapidly, and in the evening, an Indian sold us a sturgeon which weighed sixty pounds. He was accompanied too, by several squaws, from whom we purchased a quantity of straw- berries which they had gathered in the neighbourhood. Our diet was thus changed as if by enchantment, and we soon forgot our recent privation^ and fatigues. . But for our delay at Rabbil Point, we should have ar- rived in time to take the Colville, which had gone to Stone Fort three days before. Before returning to Grand Rapids, she had to make a voyage to Norway House, a Hudson Bay Fort situated on Nelson River. This voyage t Six Years in the Canadian North-West 193 jd, requires at least a week ; consequently we were obliged to remain about ten days at Grand Rapids. Mr. M. sug- gested that we should proceed to Winnipeg with the boat in which we had displayed our prowess and madness, but the rest of us took good care not to undertake this foolish project The Grand Rapids, which flow between two calcareous banks, are a mile and a half long, and but for the rocks, on a level with the water, which encumber the bed of the river, the boats could ascend them in the same manner as the other rapids. At the foot of these rapids, on the left bank of the river, a mile above its mouth, there is a Hud- son Bay Company's Fort, the landing place of the Colvt'Ue ; and on the opposite bank, an Indian settlement which ex- tends along the river from the Grand Rapids to Lake Winnipeg. The inhabitants, except a few who are in the service of the Hudson Bay Company, live by hunting and fishing, the only means of subsistence which they have at their command, for this region is essentially rocky, and is unfit for the cultivation of cereals. Recently the Hudson Bay Company has had a tramway built, connecting the wharves of the Colville and the Northcote ; and it is by means of this tramway, that transhipment of merchandise brought by the Colville, and intended for the North- West, is effected ; a process more rapid, and less fatiguing than that formerly employed by travellers, who themselves carried their luggage a dis- tance of a mile and a hal£ It is only in July that the Northcote can set out and 194 Six Years in the Canadian Korth-West this delay arises from two causes, the late breaking up of the ice in Lake Winnipeg, and the insufficiency of the tonnage of the Colville, which to load the Northcote, has to make three voyages, each of which takes a week. The second cause of delay would be easily obviated, by launch- ing on Lake Winnipeg a boat of the same tonnage as the Northcote, or several boats like the Colville. In sup- posing that this should be realized, the Northcote would not be ready to leave Grand Rapids before the first of July, on account of Lake Winnipeg being not free of ice, until about the middle of June. Therefore, notwithstand- ing the best previsions, a journey from Winnipeg to Ed- monton, via Grand Rapids could not be effected before the latter end of July. .In the interests of colonization, could there not be another way opened, other than the in- convenient one, via Grand Rapids 1 There certainly could, and it only remains to utilize it ; I mean the route, via the Lakes Winnipegoosis and Manitoba. The southern end of Lake Manitoba is about fifty miles from Winnipeg, and this lake is connected with Lake Winnipegoosis whose northern end is separated from Cedar Lake by Mossy Portage which is only about five miles long. With a railway from Winnipeg to Lake Manitoba, steamboats on the Lakes Manitoba and Win- nipegoosis, a railway or canal through Mossy Portage, and steamboats on the Saskatchewan, one could rapidly reach the North- West, thus avoiding the dangerous rapids between Cedar Lake and Winnipeg. I say dangerous, es- pecially ^in ascending them ; for if the tow cables break, Six Years in the Canadian North-West. 1D5 there is nothing to prevent the boats from being wrecked against the rocks along the shore : as witness the catas- trophe which befel the Commissioner belonging to the Hudson Bay Co., in 1873. This was the first steamboat that appeared on the watera of the Saskatchewan, and, on her firs voyage, as she was ascending the Demi- Charge, the tow cables broke, an,d in a second, the Commisiioner was broken in pieces against the rocks. Happily, the crew succeeded in saving themselves. Though the route, via Lakes Manitoba and Winni- pegoosis, would be the best for colonists who wish to reach the far North-West, we do not mean to say that the route by Grand Rapids should be abandoned. On the contrary, when the projected railway, connecting Hudson Bay will be built, this will be the most econom- ical and the most direct way of exporting to Europe the grain from the Saskatchewan valley. The above is a project which the government would do well to carry into execution. Our stay at Grand Rapids appeared very long to us. We passed our time in fishing and picking strawberries. Fish are plentiful at the foot of the rapids. In a quarter of an hour, one can catch with a hook and line, more fish than he can carry. Strawberries are no less plentiful ; and I have often asked myself, if this region, though rocky, might not be appropriated advantageously to the cultivation of fruit. One would easily believe it, if one considers that here the summer is pretty warm, and dur- ing that season, night frosts are very rare, on account of 196 Six Years in the Canadian Nwth-West. the composition of the soil, and the proximity of Lake Winnipeg. Let us hope that our statesmen will take in- to consideration a question so directly concerning the future of the country. iuko i li- the CHAPTER XIX. Departure from Grand 11 .. ids— Icelandic Settlement on Lake Winnipeg-- Selkirk— Our Arrivnl .t Winnipeg — Rapid Progiess of that Place since 1870 — En route T i' Ontft.-io— Ideas of Americans about Canada — Duluth — Good Pastii..u on the La^'os — Visiting my Friends Once More — My Arrival at Quebec and ou board of the Sarmatian, en route for Liverpool. AFTER a week passed above the Grand Rapids, we took the tramway for the wharf of the Colville where, with the leave of the director of the Fort, we in- stalled ourselves in the warehouse which is used to re- ceive the cargo of the steamboat. These camping quarters were far more comfortable than that of Mr. R., which could hardly shelter us from the abundant showers of rain, so froquent, in that region, at that season of the year, Our stay ther'3 was not to be long, for, on the night of the 28th, we were awakened by the director calling out that the Colville was in sight. Hardly had we got up and took out our baggage, when the steamer anchored, and the unloading immediately began. This was com- pleted the next morning at 11 o'clock and at 10 that night, we weighed anchor, the Indians giving us a parting salute from their guns, to which the Captain replied by a whistle from the engine. This seemed to 198 Six Years in the Canadian North- West. please them greatly, if one can judge by their shouts which they continued as long as we remained in view. Being then only July, a cool night had succeeded the tropical heat of the day. Not the least breath rippled the surface of the lake, and the boat seemed to glide upon a vast mirror. But from this, it must not be in- ferred, that Lake Winnipeg is always calm ; for violent storms sometimes arise which expose boats to the greatest dangers ; and are increased by the shallowness of the lake and the presence of rocky islands. Before retiring for the night, I approached the Captain and asked him how long it would take us to reach Stone Fort. "If the fine weather continues" said he, "we shall be there in thirty-six hours, that is to say, about ten o'clock Saturday morning." This pnswer was all the more agree- able to us, since we wanted to reach Winnipeg by Saturday evening if possible. The cabins of the Colville which, like those of the Lily, contained each two beds, were not very comfortable ; but we were better off with respect to bofird. As for the crew, it was composed principally of Indians and half-breeds speaking, I think, all the Indian dialects of Canada. The next day in the afternoon, we arrived in sight of Icelandic Settlement, which has been founded since 1875, upon the southern shore of Lake Winnipeg. One asks one- self with surprise, what those colonists were thinking of to settle in such a place ; for that part of the country, taken on the whole, is unsuitable for the culture of cereals. It would have been better for them tp settle elsewhere, and Six Years in the Canadicm North-West. 199 cultivate the soil on a large scale, than to get a precarious living by fishing in Lake Winnipeg, and cultivating a few rows of potatoes. Saturday, at daybreak we arrived at the mouth of Ked River where we met the pilot who was to take charge of the Colville as far as the Stone Fort, I must say here, that the current of Red River is not so swift as that of the Saskatchewan ; but its channel is much more sinuous, hence it is very hard to follow it when the water is muddy. Such was the case then, and at one time, the pilot having swerved from the channel, the trunk of a tree got entangled in the screw, and stopped the boat. No harm was done, however, to the machinery of the Colville, which soon resumed its course. As for the pilot, all he had to endure was a few objur- gations from the chief engineei-. We were not long be- fore we came in sight of Selkirk, where we landed at eight o'clock that morning. We did not go to the Stone Fort with the Colville, as we expected, having heard that we could reach Winnipeg sooner by taking at Selkirk the morning train which leaves for St. Boniface. Unfortunately after we had landed, we learned that the train we intended to take had already left, and there being no other train that day, which we could take, we hired a carriage to take us to Winnipeg in the afternoon. Selkirk, which is of very recent origin, had made pro- digious progress. The reason of this may be partly at- tributed to the supposition that the Canadian Pacific Rail- way, now under construction, was to pass through that 200 Six Years in the Canadian North-West town. Selkirk contains hotels which would do honour to Ontario or Quebec ; and publishes a weekly newspaper called the Inter-Ocean. The prospects are that this town, connected with Winnipeg by railway, situated on Red River, and being in the centre of a very fertile district, is destined to become a place of importance. At three o'clock in the afternoon, we set out for Wifini- peg, eighteen miles distant. The road we followed lies along Red River and passes through Stone Forfc, St. Andrews, and Kildonan, Stone Fort comprises hardly anything but the Hudson Bay establishment. As for St. Andrews and Kildonan, they are prosperous, and rapidly growing. As it was at the season of the year when the weather was fine, and nature was clothed in all its beauty, our drive was very agreeable, and we entered Winnipeg charmed with the splendid panorama which, since leaving Selkirk, had unrolled itself to our view. Mr. G. alighted at the house of his relatives, Messrs. R. and M., and I took lodgings at the Hotel du Canada. Winnipeg, the capital of Manitoba, has a population of about sixteen thousand souls, and is situated at the junc- tion of the Assiniboine and Red Rivers. This city, which was but a small village in 1870, has grown even more rapidly than Chicago, the metropolis of the North- Western States. To give the reader an idea of the progress made by that place since 1870, let us picture to ourselves the impres- sions of an inhabitant of Winnipeg, who, at that time, had gone to a foreign land, and is returning to-day to his na- Six Years in the Canadian North-West 201 tive country. If he be in Canada or in the United States, he takes a ticket for St. Boniface, situated opposite Win- nipeg. Arrived at St. Vincent, he leaves the United States to enter Manitoba. A thousand reminiscences crowd into his mind at the sight of the vast plains on which he had many a time hunted the buffalo. Bat what impresses and grieves him, are the changes which have taken place in those parts. Domesticated cattle have suc- ceeded the buffaloes which have entirely disappeared ; the virgin plains, under the effort of settlers, have been partly converted into cultivated fields ; wigwams and cabins have given place to elegant houses. Judge of the disappoint- ment of our Manitoban ! The farther he advances, the more he is pained by the changes that have taken place. Finally the train stops, and they call out : " St, BonifEtce — Winnipeg." He alights from the car, and looks around; but the dwellings he beholds resemble in no wise the cab- ins of former days. The church alone, where he attended mass, and which has undergone no change, proves to him that he is at the end of his journey. Mechanically, he follows his fellow-travellers, and, with them, takes the omnibus which crosses Red River, on a steam-ferry. They pass before the principal hotels . of Winnipeg ; the omni- bus gradually gets rid of the passengers. Our Manitoban, finally left alone, asks to be driven to his home ; but the omnibus conductor, who however is thoroughly acquainted with the city, declares that he does not know his address. This answer surprises a great deal our traveller. He asks then to be taken to Fort Garry where, in former days, he 13 202 Six Tears in the Canadian North-West used to sell his furs to the Hudson Bay Company. This establishment has so well resisted the hand of progress that our traveller finds at last where he is, and the place where he was bom. But his father's home is no more, and on its place is perhaps erected a magnificent building. His discovery only adds to his regrets. His old friends are dead or have emigrated to wild lands ; the steamboats have replaced the canoes on Red River ; broad streets have succeeded the narrow cart roads ; and houses, which would do honour to a great city, the Indian wigwams and the lo£r cabins of the half-breeds. All this is what has been done in ten years ! What will be done in ten more? After passing three days in Winnipeg, I started for Ontario with Mr. M., who was still determined to make his trans- Atlantic voyage. Mr. G. remained at Winnipt^, and Mr. R was to return to Battleford. In summer, one can go from W^innipeg '^o Ontario by two different routes; the first and most expeditious by rail, via St. Paul, Chicago and Sarnia ; the second, by rail, from St. Boniface to Duluth, and from there by steam- boat, several of which ply between Duluth and Sarnia, In summer it is more agreeable to travel by boat than by rail ; and for this reason and also because I def^xi.v.J to see Lakes Superior and Huron, I chose the second. On the 3rd of August, at seven o'clock a. m., we left St. Boniface, and, in the afternoon, we entered the plains of Minnesota. This country, sparsely populated in 1874, is to-day almost completely colonized . Along the railway, between St. Boniface and Duluth, one sees villages and I I : Six Years in the Canadian North- West. 203 flourishing towns, of which the principal are : — St. Vin- cent, Brookston, Glyndon, and Bminerd. The Americans imagine that their country is superior to all others. Among my fellow-travellers, one could easily distinguish between the Americans, and others. The former could not contain their admiration at the sight of the rich fields of wheat which extended along the rail- road. A* traveller, seated opposite to me, seeing that I did not share in his enthusiasm, asked me if I knew a country comparable to this : "I know one," said I, "which is much superior." " Superior ! " said he, " not in America, any way." " Yes, in America," said I, " and in Canada, too." "I would like to know which Province of Canada is more fertile than Minnesota ? " " It is not a province," said I, "but a region scarcely yet known. I mean the upper part of the North Saskatchewan Valley." It is evident the fertility of Minnesota is incomparable in the eyes of him who has not visited the Canadian North- West, Hence my indifference at the sight of a country which had excited the admiration of the travel- lers. They listened with a lively interest to all the de- tails that I gave about the Saskatchewan region, the natural richness of which was only partially known. They did not understand how the Canadian Government had left such a vast and fertile country so long in the hands of fur-traders. Thus, unintentionally, I was per- forming the functions of an emigration agent, for several 204 Six Years in the Canadian North-West. I r of the m seem disposed to sell their land in order to go to the Canadian North-West. The following day, at noon, the train entered Lruluth. On our arrival, omnibuses conveyed the travellers, going to Ontario, to the Quebec. This steamer was going to start at night-fall, and, as I then had several hours before me, I went after dinner to visit Duluth and its vicinity. Situat- ed at the head of a bay called Fond du Lac, this city ex- tends along the shore, and is backed by rocky, inaccessible hills, which prevent it from developing in that direction. Its longitudinal streets, disposed like an amphitheatre, are well supplied with comfortable hotels. Duluth is still prosperous, though its former prosperity is somewhat diminished in consequence of the opeuings of railway con- nection between Ontario and the North- West. But that which will mark its decline, more particularly, will be the completion of the railroad from Thunder Bay to Manitoba, and which will be followed by travellers going from Ontario to the North- West. Towards evening I returned on board of the Quebec which soon weighed anchor. All those who have travelled on the boats of Lake Superior have been greatly pleased with the comfort of them. Each cabin contains two berths ; but they are much more roomy than those of the Saskatchewan steamboats. The passengers, most of whom were tourists, were not very numerous. The feminine sex was chiefly repre- sented by some American misses, who, from thejfirst day, enlivened the company, by playing captivating pieces on Six Years in the Canadian North-Weat. 205 g« the piano. The mivjical faculty, which had been slumber- ing in me for six years, suddenly awoke on hearing these harmonious strains. What a contrast between the music and the deafening uproar produced by the tambourine of the savages. The latter I endured with difficulty ; the former I heard with pleasure. The one grated upon my ear ; the other excited my imagination, and awoke in me a world of ideas and sentiments which I was not before aware of. There is in music, even in secular music, some- thing that elevates the soul and awakens in it the sense of the Infinite. By music, as by poetry, we reach the invisible, the immutable, the eternal. I almost reproached myself for my voluntary exile among the Indians who afforded so little attraction for any man accustomed to soci- ety. But without this isolation I should not have gained that experience, and made observations which I hope one day to make known to the public. Like those bold tra- vellers who, for a purely scientific object, leave family, native land, and the advantages of civilization, to encoun- ter unexpected and inevitable dangers, I have resolved, after a study of the North- West of Canada, to relate some day its natural riches, which are to-day being taken ad- vantage of by thousands of colonists. The third day we reached Sault Ste. Marie Rapid, which separates Lake Superior from Lake Huron. To avoid it a canal has been built through which the boats pass. The next day, in the evening, we reached Samia. There I parted with Mr. M. whom I arranged to meet in Toronto. By the Grand Trunk I went, to London, where A. 206 Six Tears in the Canadian North-Weat. I visited some friends whom I had not seen since 1873. Three days later T started for Toronto. Mr. M. was not at the rendezvous, and my endeavours to find him were fruitless. So, after visiting Niagara, I set out for Quebec, (passing by Ottawa and Montreal), where T arrived just in time to sail for Liverpool by the Sarmatian. Here ends the account of my adventures in the North- Wesi Wi^'^.- L873. 3 not were ebec, just orth-