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See pages 125, :US), .'Ji'i. mmtvn moohe and mattts POEMS AND TLLT^^TR HY TIOSKYNS^ABRADALL, Jon., M.A .CCHBBin OF COMfK noKG., ,...,. ,„^ ,^,, ,,,^^^^ ^^ li-vcoLs coLtBaB, oxroiii). • .nu;u (ho swot^p of ondlfts^ w(,oi.1s i iakx'fi, hiKli clilfs, anr! ii.liii,g flooas".' •iQiraoula Natiu-m. more* barbarorura, fabulosas insula. ' K^ShV {Pralectio" xi ^ •nde falfi'ic,! of fayrjx',' ' '" ' ■ i;0^;■ji^PJE:i.■ " '•: J^ox ■J'^i.-J • TH. aooK f ."T. T i^nJBt a Sket'h , mmtvn moons ann mattts: POEMS AND ILLUSTEATIVE NOTES. BY JOHN HOSKYNS-ABBAHALL, J„.,, INCUMBENT or COSrnE tONGA OTOV Awr, "^«xA, OXOW, AKD LATE FEUOW OP t-IxVCOLN COLLEGE. OXEOBD. M.A. -racula Natur.. .ores K.rbaroru™. .vbulosas insula.' ' • Al was this londe frlfylied of fayrye.' ^^'"^'' ^P^<^lectio„es, xi.). ' It'., . » ' ' . , , < > > > I ; t « t » , • <• 4 • i. LONDON: LONGMAN, GEEEN, LONGMAN. EOBEETS. . GEEEN. 1S64. ■ T * ^ m mt I 'All milieu do nos champs cultivda, en vain I'imasiiuvtion cherche A s'^teadre; elle rencontre do toutes parts les habitations dcs liommes : — mais dans ces pays ddserts I'amo so plait a s'unfoncer, in so perdro, dans un oc^an d'dternelleS forCts; elle aiinc a errer, a la clar^6 des dtoiles, aux borda des lacs immenscs, a planer sur la gouffre muf,'iasan> dcs terribles cataracts, t\ tomber uvoc la masse des ondes, ot, i)our ainsi dire, a so niCler, a ao fondre, avec toute une nature sauvage et sublime.'- Chateaujiuiand (Revolutions anciennes et modernes; livre i. part ii. chap. 57). •* * ♦ quffi passim foras nocto dieque sentirent, venerandu, pulchra, splendida,— ilia omnia notavevint quasi aii^'ua prujseutiuui Doorum. Ex quo effeetum esse, ut totidem colorent Numina, quot haberet reruni naluia sive formidinis sive venustatis specie".'— Keule (Wordsworthii do Graiis versus summatim reddens, apud Prcelectioncit de Poeticce Vi Medicd, prail. xxx.). » • • • • » »•'■.•• ' • • • , • )«■••••«,•»« • • • < • . , < • • • • * • . • • » « w < • » CONTEJ^TS. PAGES i^—xxiii xxix XXX xxxii Introduction I'iST or Strpp^BMENTAx Notes ;'&c Ebrata, &c in twt. a * * ^v— xxvii ' •' "^ ^«^ A^'ENDIX-NOTES -Dedicatory lines Canto I.-M«„,s ^^„ ^^^^^ ™wii,g.._4 St.™ / "ormng.-s. Tho horn- «• Lake KootcHireiJIr;™;-^- f^ '''■>""■"'<- *am.t c„ „j, „„.._ij J. , "*— !»• «:{!» snmmtr. -12. K»turntoIand-3 tL T ■" ""^ *™°°°- inl.abitante. ™°<''' "' n'Sht, and their Canto II._The EMBRYO CITY. I- The .settlement in the woods -2 ti '""° "I-E-™, .00., ..„ ,,,,,. A o 11—16 VI CONTENTS. 3. The Blue Mountains.— 4. Cabot's Heo.d.— 5. Night-fall on the waters. — 6. Dawn amid the islets. — 7. Noon at the copper-mines.— 8. St. Joseph's Island. — 9. Up St. Mary's River ...... 17—24 Canto IV. — Sunshine on Keetciu Gahmi. 1. The Saut Ste. Marie Canal. — 2. The entrance of Great Water. (1.) Grey mountains. (2.) Green islands. — 3. A gorgeous, but ill-omened, sunset. — 4. The Water-Wraith's home ...... 25—30 Canto V.~Stoem, and fog, and rocks. 1. Rushing into the snare. — 2. The compass at fault. — 3. Our guidance. — 4. Our movements. — 5. The breakers. — 6. A glimpse of the sun. — 7. A glimpse of the mountain- top. — 8. St. Ignace. — 9. The fog reclosing. — 10. The sunken rocks. — 11. Mudjiekeewis.— 12. The Sun God. — 13. The deliverance ...... 31 — 40 Canto VI. — Mountains and islands. 1. Speeding onward. — 2. Islet and coast. — 3. Distant heights. — 4. Ninnibohzhoo. — 5. Isle Royale. — 6. Thunder Mountain. — 7. The Red Man's superstition.— 8. The en- trance of Thunder Bay. — 9. The two janitors. — 10. The lone height. — 11. Thunder Bay and Welcome Islands. — 12. The delta. — 13. Exchange of greetu:'gs. — 14. Landing at Fort William - . . . . 41 — 54 Canto VII.— jOak 4^a auir 5tb ^Ililt. 1. The oasis in the Far West.— 2. The cows. —3. The deputation, and our host. — 4. The Fort, and its past. — 6. CONTENTS. yjj Th. tot deliver „f H,, jj^. . 55—67 Canto VIII.-The Kahministikwoya. 1. The bireh-bark boat on the river -2 Tha «,• • the wig.an.s.>. The vista be^d "^3' Caxxo ix.-3i.,Knata anlr t!,. m^nWnm 74-80 Canto X.~The wondehs op the v^^^kin. 1. Sunset on Thunder Bay.-2. The moon over the isle of tage Jday.-5. By headhmd and islet.->6. The Mirage r X.X 81— S7 tor"'"''^"'"'- '^"^ ^f's*""" <« m drat . 88 — 115 C«.TO XII._ThE ISIET OP THE MaHNITOOS. >. Down St. Mary. Kiver._2. The iabt-ttongsd .trai, - 3. The queen of the i,Iet..-4. Mishabo„._5. The U anfe glni,g._c. The White Man -7 m Tl, i" """•"■ (2.) The Arehed Eock-8 The t'^ S-g-^-Loaf. Mahnitoos ^""^ '"""' ''''™-»- Th- 116—128 A 4 VIU CONTENTS. I mimm'-~5. ^'^e^tqutl . . . 129-144 Canto XIV — Home with the waters. 1. Farewell to Maekinaw.-~2. Lake Huron and the burning woods—a. Streams and nieres.-4. The Niagara River above the Rapids.-5. The Niagara River, from the Rapids to Queenston Heights. (1.) The view from above. (2 ) The Rapids. (3.) The islet-labyrinth, (4.) Goat Island and the I^Hlls. (5.) The spray and its bow (6.) The ghost-like sheets of spray. (7.) The River and its gorge. (8 ) The rapids below the Bridgt). (9.) The Whirlpool. (10.) The outburst. (11.) Queenston Heights and Brock's Monument -6. The prospect from the Monument. (1.) The ascent of the column. (2.) The ridge. (3.) The champaign. (4 ) The River, and its future.-7. Across Lake Ontario . 145-158 Canto XV.-~^z f i«0 of Jfl^obg Appendix-Notes ' • • Supplemental Notes • • . OR, THE VISION ON THE DaRK RivEB , Abbreviations.— I. Words in frequent use n II. Authorities . Index . 159—172 173—372 373—384 385-400 401—402 402—406 407—419 INTRODUCTION. A. Its main narrative. a. Subject. b. Metre. B. IXa secondary parts. C. Its episodical stories. «. The I?ed Man's stories. b. My specimens. «. Tiieir bases. ^. Their positions. I>- Its construction. E. Its title, K Its Appendix-Notes. «. The Appendix-Notes proper. *• '^^e Supplemental Notes. ^. Tlieir order. '" "Lf "*'"»*'••* «•«"•"'• -. «» *•- o» «« i,«,. ! ('■) TJo explanations of.,. abWeviation. of .ho authoritie. K*-; Ihe index. I I - r *-.-, ! ? ucw w»i ix*ti ^ ^ff m K. INTRODUCTION. (1.) A. a. The main parts* of the substance of the Moon, fifteen cantos, which arc collectively termed Wid^p^ f)tXVp jrHOOltt or, a July among the woods and waters of the Red Man, comprise a narrative of a short tour, — in July, 1858, — through that magnificent region, which presents the grandest combination f of Rasp berry Main narra- ttve. Subject. ■ I 'ill ! ! ^ I I .? i ♦ Canto I. paragraphs 1—9, 11—13; II.; III. 2—9; IV. 1_3; V. 1-12; VI.; VIII. ; X.; XII.; XIV. (The words 'canto ' and ' paragraph' tu'e omitted in all future references.) t " If people in England had any idea of the lovely scenery and delightful climate of the American lakes, they would not confine their ^.ichting to European waters. There are 2000 miles of lake-navigation, affording fishing and scenery unsur- passed by any in the world ; while the numerous settlements on the shores would serve as pleasant resting-places, from which excursions might be made into the interior in bark-canoes, or shootiiig- expeditions organized. Now that the canal at the Sault Ste. Marie is finished, which connects Lake Superior with Lakes Michigan and Huron, there is nothing to prevent a yacht, not drawing more than 8^ feet of water, sailing from Liverpool to Fond du Lac, the last 2000 miles from the mouth of the St. LawTenco being entirely inland navigation. Lake Huron is so abundantly studded with islands, that one might cruise on it for months and always find fresh points of intereso, and sail through new channels each more beautiful than the last ; while the im- mense advantage of always being able to land in rough weather is one which yachtsmen are for the most part not slow to avail themselves of." (0. p. 86.) IB INTEODUCTION. ^: inland woods and waters tl,nt „.«.i, 'u waters, tliat earth can show.* The excursion occupied three week3.t About a weekt was passed in the first mail-boat to Lal.e Superiors She was but a little tug; she was making her < trial trip'; the dangerous waters she was to ply .n were unkno,vn to her master and crew- nor was she yet fitted for the accommodation of passengers My wife and myself wore the only purely a,nateur members of the little party; and she was the only female on board. Some of the following pagesj will .how that we had by no means a mere pleasure-trip.f It was a great change from that little tug to the tm,.;s, a large and well-equipped excursion-steamer of Cleveland (Lake Erie). On her we went fi.m Saut fete. Marie to Mackinaw.** t July 9, 7-ir, a. m.-29, 10 p. m. t J%12, 10-30u.m.-l8, lia.m § Seo p. 17 (f, „.)_ II Pp. 31—38, 225—228. XII. l! ^ ' ' ""-' ^•"- ^^- -W is con.p.i.ed in i, H Metre. Xll INTRODUCTION. Afterwards, however, we 'roughed it' not a little in a Chicago ' propeller ',* which took uy from Mackinaw to BuiFalo.! My sketches of the scenery of the Niagara River J result, not merely from the flying visit of that excur- sion, § but also from sojourns a^ several points on both sides, in different seasons of the years 1857, 1858, and 1859. It has been observed by others,] besides myself, that the scenery of this most striking part of the Laurentian water-system requires time, in order that it may be adequately appreciated. h. I scarce need offer an apology for the metre of the main narrative. It is the metre of Kalevala^ the national epic of the Finnlanders, — a poem which no mean authority^ places in the same rank with The Tliad. It is the metre of The Song ofllkmatha, Mr. * See p. 66 (f. n.). t July 25, 9 p.m.— 29, 4.30 a.m. This voyage is comprised in XIV. 1—3. + In XIV. (4-^- 6) and XV. § On July 29, 1858. II See (e. g.) Ly. Tr. vol. i. eh. ii. (p. 27). ^ Professor Max Miiller ( The Languages of the Scat of War in the East, 2nd. edu., p. 116). B is comprised raiRODUCTION. xiji Longfellow's beautiful rehabilitation of a group of the Ued Ma„'« legends- and, as such, it is declared by Herr Kohlf to be "a very good imitation of the 'Inian'uncadeneed delivery," which he compares to " *' ''°°*"»«'' "'^'""S of a stream," and to " the murmurs of the wind."| Having Mr. Longfellow's poem often in my hands, and moving_as I was and felt I was-among the scenes of that charming little epos, I almost invohmtarily cast my nan-ative in the same mould. I trust that my copious interspersion of other measures has prevented this one fi-om being dis- agreeably monotonous. B. The parts, which may be termed secondary,§ ,„,,. Hmre but few introductory words. It is hoped that^-.- they relieve the main narrative. The Water-Wraith's home,! the centre-piece of fee of them,! was suggested by the slight mention J JJf rr /' °^™ '*™'' '"' "'"' "'"^'■^"'d. in my pe„d..N„tes(see Index). On its value in more than o^e P&peet, see p. 267 (f. n.). 8 T in TTT + ^^' ^^' P- 248. § I- 10, III. 1, IV. 4, V. 13, VII XV I IV. 4. j ^ ^^e other two form III. i and V. 13. XIV ii INTRODUCTION. of the Water-Spirits in that legend about Michipicoten Island, which is related by Father Dablon.* Since it was written, I have found that such a superstition actually exists, the subject of it being a deep hole in the midst of Lake Huron.f Canto VII. may be viewed as filling somewhat the part of the intermezzo in a drama. Canto XV. as corresponding with the finale in a musical compo- sition. Epiaodi- C. (i Numerous interesting legends, — produced by The Red *^^ Prolific imagination of the Eed Men, and handed Men's J stories, down among them from ge eration to generation, are recounted in the wigwam during the long winter- evenings, to the delight of White strangers as well as the Red folk themselves.J * See p. 218. t See p. 188; cf. XIII., and Zl^t JSaPnJ^ta'jS ©«am (H£ 7). X Cat. i. 80, 83—85; P. ch. i. ; K. pp. 86—88. It has been since my composition of Canto XI., that I have seen the pas- sages, here referred to, in the two first of these books. Great part of that in the last of the three is quoted by fne in pp. 114, 115. It may be well to state here that the ' coureurs des bov: ' are pedlars in the fur-trade service. INTRODUCTION. XV ta*)S Bnum *• «• Of my three episodical ca„tos,*_the fim and „, ^ second are based on two of the legends collected in a 1^' small vow by Dr. Schoolcraft.f-the third on a '°^' traction, which was related to Her. Kohl| as of an actual event not very distant. I W not produced these stories. Their insertion would but have served to show the very paraphrastic character of the cantos founded upon them ; and the bulk already attained by my volume has necessitated the omission of more useful matter. The basis of me Bamttm mnm, which is given at the end of that httle poem, may be taken as a specimen of the extent to which the stories have been my materials, m proportion to the amount supplied by my own ' fancy, my knowledge of the Red Man's manners and eustoms, and my almost invotaarily catching some- th.ng, I would fain hope, of his thought and fee]ing.§ The traditionary tales are thus freely handled by the * IX., XI., XIII. t K. p. 422. § "Mihi, vetHstas res scribenti animus" (Liv. xliii. 13). t Sch. H. L. pp. 299, 265. nescio quo pacto antiqans (it XVI INTRODUCTION. and po- sitions. native story-tellers. Herr Kohl* writes as follows : — " It was clear to me that every narrator added much of his own, and altered a good deal according to his taste. The same story has been told me by two diffe- rent persons, and I have noticed considerable varia- tions, although the groundwork and style of composition remained the same."f /3. It may be well to give here the grounds for the respective positions of my episodes. Ibat part of the southeastern coast of Lake Superior, which is called Le Grand Sahle,X is the proper scene of UeriittaiM anti ti\t UufeU)ulruiwe0;§ buti took the liberty of inserting the story where it is, because it seemed peculiarly adapted for that place. || Cfie ;ff^itf^\tn Saiwiu atm tfie Stately ©ran^lF is the jetiological legend of the Cranes of Saut Ste. Marie : ** it accounts for the origin of the whitefish,tt t^^eir principal food,tt— as well as for the * ^- P- 88. t See also XI. [p. Ill, f. n.]. } Seo pp, 294, 381. § ix. II See p. 29o (f. ii.). «| xi. ** See pp. 110, 313, 199. ft See, especially, pp. 346 (f. n.), 199. INTRODUCTrON. ^^j- settlement of their clan at those rapids, where it i. caught in perfection, jfje ©bUfreamer anr, m mattrmin t - not localised by Hen KoM - a versifier may, I think, fairly claim to be pe^.it.ed to lay US scene on "the pebbly beach "J of ,!,« haunted isle of Mackinaw,5_a„ islet, which, by the way, strongly reminded me of that created in ne Tempest by the imagination of Shakespeare. D. It was while-feeling somewhat as if We were the first, that ever burst Into that silent sea— we gazed on the gorgeous bnt ill bo'fceous, but ill-omened, sunset, wh.ch closed the cloudless day of our entrance into Lake Superior,!! that it struck me I would occupy any .sp^.e intervals in the course of „„r trip by compos,, a light verse-account of it somewhat after Horace's of h- jaunt to Brundisium. I merely intended to .end " '° ^'■«"^'' ^"-0^' - - -lief to a matter-of-fact P-e diary. Then and there I scribbled off such an account ofthe first day's incidents,-while we Con- 'true- (ion. ;;PP.110,199,346(f.„.). tXIII ^ '• "• '^^- I See IV. 3. a t See p. 3l6(f. n.). M \ E))'. m Title. • • ■ ^^^" INTRODUCTION. Westward, westward .... Sail'd into the fiery sunsot, Sail'd int(j the purple vapours, Sail'd into the dusk of evening.* On Lake Superior, and at the lapidsf between that lake and Lake Huron, 1 composed the substance of the nunn narrative, to the end of the description of one of the Ojibwa wigwams on the Kahministikwoya.J xhe composition of the rest served to while away part of a voyage across the Atlantic in the following summer. Thus my account of the scenes and incident, of the trip was composed while they were quite fresh in my recollection. The secondary parts, and the episodical stories, have been added since,-amid the tamer scenery of central England. E. The fifteeen cantos are coUectively entitled na^pttVVV moon, or, a July among the woods and waters of the Red Man. < Raspberry Moon '— or, the month in which the wild raspberries a^-e I * H. xxii. [p. 1G4]. t Saut Ste. Marie (a. n. 28). \ VIIL 2. li INTRODUCTION. npe-is that Ojibwa '™„o„ -,.„Mch correspond., witl July. I«« Retime of the year, when the „,ag„ifi„,„. -g-on, through which we rambled, is at the height of Its short-lived summer-splendours. F.«. When the fifteen cantos went to the press, it.,,,; — to me best to relegate many matters to the Id £ of them, instead of overlaying the text with Ion, foot """ notes. Some of th.se matters required a llgthy reatment; others it appeared well to associate with kmdred subjects, under comprehensive headings. In the Appendix-Notes, which have resulted from these considerations, my first and foremost object has been «'e explanation and corroboration of my verses. Hence these Note.,, of course, must not be expected bear on the face of them many marks of originality. I would fain hope, however, that they may be con. «^ered a useful addition to the stock of British litera- "' 7 ^ ™"'"^' <"«-* of «- --itings of others and supplement to them. Even the best of these either jeontam errors or requir-e reference to other authorities ; ^Wlih: "■ "■ ""' "" ^'*'^ "' *^ '-^I-- ' rtich i, giv» a2 XX INTRODUCTION. iM i nearly aU of them lose half their serviceability through their lack of indices, a defect to some ext^^nt remedied by this little volume ; many of them are quite out of the reach of people on this side of the Atlantic. I have been studiedly terse ; indeed, many of the notes are the results of frequent distilling and elimination. In- terruptions of this part of the work, caused by various circumstances, have, again and again, delayed the com- pletion of the book.* Had I not referred to the notes by guch a host of figures, I should have summarily curtailed them. As it is,-that the size of the volume might not glaringly outrun the reasonable bounds of such a work,— I have been obliged to omit a large quantity of materials, much of which was ready for the press. I have some thoughts of submitting them to the public, ere long, in a more comprehensive shape, hoping that, in conjunction with others, which are in different stages of preparation, they may furnish useful 'handy books' on the aborigines of the New World and the immigrants from the Old, as well as a series of light sketches of what came under my own observation * The last of the cantos went to the press on Feb. 2, 1862. INIBODPCTIOJJ. ^^ on the other side of the Atlantic. Meanwhile, I,,vo„ld ask a favourable reception for this little book to subject is the region of the great lakes,-a region that, m some respects, yields to none in interest. It is true that it does not comprise .statistics of the fast- growing civilization of the White Man: such in- formation is soon out of date. It will, at aU events illustrate The Song of Hiarmha, and Herr Kohl's »teres:ing notes on the same superstitions and cus- toms, which Mr. Longfellow has so neatly introduced iu his spirited lays. i- During the composition of the Appendi.^-Notes, «n<>s„p. I inadvertently omitted to cite some passages; and ''■°"°' wlule they were passing through the press, I met with •nany other.,, most of them corroborating or illustrating r^J verses, some of them confirming or weakening thi probability of my etymological conjectures in the Notes. In some eases, I have taken occasion to pro- duce these in later Notes; in others, I have given I tHem as Supplemental Notes ; in others, again, I have [reserved them for future u,«.» ' ™» '-' course bus been taken in the easo of an intended *^a3 tal. Hi] i: 1 ! I xxu INTRODUCTION. i '^111, ■ 1 ■ Their order. TheDah kohta's Dream. The c. To facilitate reference to them, the Appendix- Notes proper and the Supplemental Notes are placed in the order of the occurrence of their subjects in the fifteen cantos. As thej are not systematically arranged, H list of them in the Table of Contents, as well as in the Index, would but have uselessly enlarged the volume. (3.) m^t liaJfeOjta^^ Br^am, or, the vision on the B^rlc River, -^e. poem composed last January,—. appears to me to be suitably included in the same volume with l^mV^tXXVt iWOOn, The Appendix- Notes to the latter explain and illustrate both. (4.) The List of Authorities, given to explain the Supplement to tlic 39th Appendix-Note. The bulk already attained by thn volume precluded anything more than a dry and curt etymological treatment of ji few words : it would have been necessary to altogether omit the myt,hs, which refer to the bearers of them. This would have been veiy unsatisfactory to myself, and probably, I would fain think, to my readers also. So, too, I reserve the materials I had collected, from autho- rities ranging over the two centuries of French sway and the c.mtuiy of English, for an introductory sketch of the mutual relations, and the local distribution, of the Red Men, who formerly possessed the woods and waters of the Laurentian valley. I INTRODUCTION. xxiii Abbreviations employed in the book, may be nsefol to ...stok any, who desire to be more fully informed on the ™" subjects summarily treated here. (5.) The synopses make an exhaustive Index unne- t„k eessary. Further,_to avoid needless enlargement of ''"'""• the volume, I have, in many matters, merely referred to the last link in a chain of references. December, 1863. a 4 if lii LIST OJP SUPPLEMENTAL NOTES; &c. N.B -These notes myht, otherwise, escape the reader, srnee they are not referred to in the text. They n>ay yo««a on turnim, to the Index. The word, nndl camtaIs""'"'"' " ""' '""'"' " "'""''" '■« The FIRE- FLY [pp. 9, 167]. The Red Man's plaiting his hair [>. G7] The use of wooden bowls and spoons [p. 731 Bass-wood \_ib.']. ■^' -■i'S]*"'' "'""" '^ "'"'""' ''"-'^ViespeeialUj The TRILLIUM [p. 79], 'Grandfather ' « title of respect j>. 1021. /^''"^PP^^'^^iwnofthename'MAHNiToo'to.. . / \(>b'ectrn iSfil T , .,. '"''''^^^^^ to a natural that ZJStl .'''^""'"*^ '"' ^^^-« that a Zilt '"T "'^-^ *" P- ^«2) relatet XXvi' LIST OF SUPPLEMENTAL NOTES; ETC. «1 M ' pi ;Ji 'Bois Blanc' [p. 1451. Comparison of the life and death of men with those of TREES [;?. 101]. The MissisAHGAs \_p. 17G]. ' Toronto' [p. 177]. The ridge comprising Queenston Heights [p. 178]. Old names of Lake Simcoe \j). 179]. ' Kootchi-tching ' (j?. 181]. ' Penetanguishene' \_p. 182]. The ivhitii spruce [ib.'\. 'AssiKiNACK ' and bearers of this name [p. 185]. ^ Mahnitoolin' \j). 187]. La Cloche [ih.'\. I take this opportunity to add, with regard to the vocal Egyptian stone, that it is in the lap of the statue,— that the word ' salamat ' ['salaam'] (= 'salutations'), the present name of the statue, is supposed to be a memorial of its daily utter- ance soon after sunrise,--and that the word ' Memnon ' is supposed to be a corruption of the name of the Egyptian king (Anumophth III.), by whose orders these two statues were erected to himself. The ivild raspberries of the lake-country/ [p.ldll. ^Missi Seepi' (commonly written 'Mississippi') [p. 193]. The entrance of Lake Superior from below [^9.200]. * Mamainse ' |>. 201]. Serpentine on the coast of Lake Superior [p. 209]. LIST OF SUPPLEMENTAL NOTES; ETC. xxvii I with those of Other names of Lake Superior {j>. 2101. * MiSSISA WGAIEGON ' [/?. 21 1]. ' ^^GiNAw' and ' Saguenay' [ib.]. The CARRiBoo [p. 213]. 'MISSIPICOOATONG^ or MlCHIPICOTEN^ [>. 2151 The Spirit of Lake Superior and the veneraL of that lake [p. 2221. "^ 'Matchi Mahnitoo ' [ib.'\. Dog Portage and Lakes [p. 233]. 'Medicine' lp.2^^. ' Canada ' [>. 244]. ' Kahministikwoya ' [/?. 247]. The depth of the river Saguenay [ib.l The Daiikohtas [p. 270]. ' Nadouessioux ' ^c, and * Sioux ' [e5.]. The MUSHKODENSHUG [ib.']. The SNOW-SHOE [/>. 283]. Ojihwa DiMiNu-^ivE suffixes [p. 292]. The sand?/ hills called ' Le Grand Sable ' [p 294] Other names of Lake Neepigon [p. 304]. L'Arbre Croche [p. 311]. The MusHKODAiNsuG \j). 334]. The Ojibwa name of the Milky Way [j? 345] XXVIU 4' I i i«ii Ebbata, etc., in the Appendix-Notes. Pruft 178 ; middle: strike out [cf. a. n. 72 (4 )! -- 199; middle: read Talon — 211' lines 13, 14: strike out, \stly, Miclia (see a. n. 72). and 2ndly, ,72 v /» ~ 217 ; ^moiivoe,, nd cc^Tis irjof h»,M. Hoiccro ^ctvfMt ISifOx,." Welcomed then our eyes the fabric, Where, in iron trappings shrouded, Work'd the potent giant genie. Dusky Steam — a willing bond-slave. To the mind of man obedient, Work'd unwearied and insensate. Yet as fill'd with strength and motion. Yet as fiU'd with understanding, Like the golden handmaids moulded Erst by canning of the Fire-God.e * See Homer, II. xviii. 372-379. B 2 4 MERES AND WOODS. 5. " Here hills and vales, the woodland and the plain, Here earth and water, seem to strive again ; Not, chaos like, together crush'd and bruls'd. But, as the world, harmoniously confused." On, through Newmarket, we wended — Ancient, well-clear'd, home-like township ;7 On, athwart full many a gully, Cleaving hill in hill involved, Mass'd by Nature, as at random, In the gracefuUest of tangles ; — ! ?i I Glode adown. to Holland Landing, Where slow crawl'd swart swampy river Struggling through his clay-morasses, Logs, and snags, and cedar-islets ; J li f II Paused where show'd Bell Ewart's haven Her lone group of Norse-like shanties. Nigh the gleaming mere of Simcoe » Scarce beruffled by a ripple. 4 I. MERES AND WOODS. 6. " the boat advanced Through cryital water, smoothly as a hawk " Then in joyaunce roU'd the noontide, — Isle and sky and bay and foreland Fleet flew by in dazzling tangle. Gracefully along the water Tow'r'd the trees, or droop'd, or bent them As to bathe them 'neath the surface. Now some faery wood- wove jetty Would our lissome bright barque shoot to,— Pause, — then onward speed, rejoicing. As the may-fly, in the sunshine. 7. " Territui exsurglt; fugit omnis inertia Bomnl." Glide we 'neath the uplifted drawbridge ; — Thread we dredg'd and stake-mark'd pathway Cut athwart the rushy shallows. Lo ! deep-dozing chipmunks, squatting On his lone snag— . rous'd and frighted B 3 . # 'l •I Iff I I' i i ^ i M i i ■ MERES AND WOODS. I. By fierce-hissing, yelling fire-boat/— Bravely parts the mere's eiTulgence, To yon distant grove escaping. 8. " a crystal mere Among steep hills and woods embosom'd ' Beauteous then the unfolded prospect ; — Gay the Red Man's sun-lit lodges lo Gleaming on the imbower'd mere-beach ; — Broad and fair shines Kootchi-tching Lake.^' 9. •' Tibur suplnum •" Glistens, as we round lush foreland, 'Neath yon pine-hung slope Orillia, — O'er, about her the dark wild-wood Crowning, clasping as fair girdle. ' The Red Man's name for the White Man's 'steam-boat' (cf. C. p. 67). .! ^K,. I. MERES AND WOODS. 10. THE SUMMER STEAMER ON THE MERE. " placidum sulcabat iter " Bravely doth float the gold-prankt boat On the pearly, silvery mere : Bravely doth show her shape below In the pool so still and clear. Gaily doth glide the sweet summer-tide; Merrily dance the blithe hours : While the nodding trees, gently waked by the breeze, Whisper welcome to Eden-bow 'rs. 11. " the sun, declining, cast A slant and mellow radiance " Now — with prow revers'd, careering Southward, by the western margin, — Felt we more the landscape's beauty, Deepen'd by the dying daylight. Lovely lay the liquid mirror, Casting back the forest's shadow ; — B 4 I ^ '< i I ! '4 MERES AND WOODS. Daintily it waved and shimmer'd, With its bowers and its flowers, When a loon'sg black neck would tower Ever and anon above it. 12. " the still breast of a crystal lake " Glode we thus by charming foreland, Glode we thus by charming island. To thy faery port, Bell Ewart ; — Whence the fire-car* whirl'd us,— bounding Through the gloom of grove primseval Lighted by the flaring elder.^ Mm i 13. ' Itur in antlquam silvam " " mali eulices ranaeque paluatres Avertunt sornnos." I Now had pass'd bay-thronM Barrie, '2 Now the sunset's glories parted. 8 Also caUed the great northern diver {Cohjmbus glacialis). 1 i !• MERES AND WOODS. Lo ! in mid career our swift steed, Swarthy, iron-harness'd Vapour, Halted, shatter'd and disabled- Halted, in the eerie gloaming, 'Mid the many-cycled ^^ greenwood. One pale star faint glimmer'd o'er us, Lightning-flies^ flash'd fitful by us, Naught the grewsome stillness breaking, Save the croaking of the bull-frog, >4 Huge, dusk, yelloAv-eyed Dahinda,— Antiphonal, in the rank swamp. Sore we smarted with the stinging Of guerilla-like mosquito, Small, shrill, poison-spear'd Suggeema,— Dancing mazy, 'wildering war-dance. Hoarse, terrific war-cry singing, Venging hunting-ground invaded. Happy they who won the kindly - "Lightning-bug" (-bug" is = beetle) is the Yankee name for tlie fire-fly. I • 'il IH 10 MERES AND WOODS. Influence of gracious Slumber Through the long drear hoiu-s slow- dwindling, Ere beyond lone Nahdowa-Sahging '^ Collingwood i6 could speed swift steam-car, And receive us worn and drowsy. Such the first day of our travel. n. THE EMBEYO CITY. -•o^ 1. " muro9 arceraque procul ac rara domorum Tccta Wdent ; quoe nuno Romana potentia coelo iEquaTlt : turn res iaopet Evandrus habebat." Ye who dwell in England's ^ London, 'Mid the world-throng'd hive of Labour ! Ye who dwell in England's » Oxford, 'Mid the princely halls of Learning ! Ye in Bladud's town luxurious Wheel'd to ^sculapian waters ! * Canada has her London and Oxford, and indeed her Windsor (two), and her Thames, — her "parvam Trojam, simulataque raagnis Pergama, et arentem Xanthi cognomine rivum." 12 THE EMBRYO CITY. flid U rr' i m *i Kl I Moving— easy, pensive, jaunty— In your homes of solid comfort, Stately leisure, snug refinement ! — Scarce, I ween, can 7/e imagine Collingwood i6, the embryo-city, Village of uo less ambition Than to be great mart of Commerce, 'Tween Pacific and Atlantic. Since her birth in grove primaeval Scarcely thrice hath flown our fleet orb Round her sovran's throne of glory. What she shall be in the future. Let the future's self determine. On that fateful site beheld we Straggling, shapeless, haste-built cluster Of wood buildings quickly comited. Sparsely rear'd amid the dank swamp- Dwelling of the noisy bull-frog. Huge, dusk, yellow-eyed Dahinda,— 'Mid the crumbling, wind-toss'd sand-heaps,— ^'fi: M I II. THE EMBRYO CITY. 18 'Mid the charr'd stems of the greenwood, Towering— gloom-wrapp'd, weird-like, ghostly — Where the fire-path from Toronto, From Ontario and from Simcoe, Meets the Georgian Bay^^ of Huron.'^ 2. " raucis, Sole sub ardenti, resonant arbusta clcadis." Sauntering here ^ in garish noon-tide, Heard we what to English hearing Seem'd of burning wood the crackle. Much we marvell'd : " Can it well be ? No : it cannot — yes : it must be — Yonder grasshopper, careering In the sheen of summer-sunshine." Yes : it was that flying insect. But no grass-hopper of England. *> We reached Collingwood on the 9th, and left it on the 12th. Besides the stroll alluded to, we walked along the shores of the Georgian Bay, and made the acquaintance of many beautiful flowers. II 14 THE EMBRYO CITY. II. Brown its legs, and brown its body : Edged with hue of English primrose Were the winglets it expanded : And the sound it loves to utter Gives its name — the rattling locust. ^^ ii ill 1 ' i^^ fjl ^'f '' §'' .;i i i M '• O ! qui me gelidis in vallitius Hsmi Sistat, ct ingenti ramorum protcgat umbra ! " From the blistering heat sweet shelter Sought we in the welcome forest. " a living and rejoicing world.* There on moss-grown boughs reposed we, While above us and around us Gorgeous butterflies ° v/ere sweeping, Wheeling round huge trunk, and 'lighting On slim stem or broad leafs surface, — Wcving, poising, opening, shutting. Now contracting, now expanding. All the dazzling glossy splendour ' They looked very like the Camberwell Beauty {Vanessa Antiopa). II. THE EMBRYO CITY. 15 Of their richly -burnish'd pinions, — Brown, with twofold white band circled,— Spots of azure-blue and yellow Lighting up gay tails and borders. 'Neath us traU'd a winsome creeper : •^ White as snow her downy petal, With faint, gentle blush beneath it ; Bright her dark-green leaf and varnish'd, As of holly or camellia. Sate we thus amid the verdure, 'N'^ath lush canopy thick-plaited By the daedal hand of Nature ; View'd the squirrel springing fearless Through the mazes of the branches ; Drank the music of the wildwood. Murmuring o'er us and around us As aerial ocean currents ; While the cow-bell's cheery tinkle. From the grass-paved highway wafted, Blent with glee of rapturous millions, 16 THE EMBRYO CITY. Denizens of merry greenwood, Free from care and free from sorrow, In the joy of life exulting, — Blent with Nature's anthem surging Through the grandest of cathedrals. U. :."l :t;' III £ V 1 III. EARTH, WOOD, AND WATER. 1. Thb Embarkation. " Dl, maris et terrse tempestatumque potentes, Ferte viam vcnto facilem, et spirate secundi ! " Forth the frail barque ^ hatli flown, Launcli'd on wild seas unlvuown. Pow'rs of the deep ! Pow'rs of the air ! Sleep ! — oh ! in mercy, sleep ! Spare ! — oh ! spare ! * At 10.30 a.m., 12th July, 1858, the Scruce (au auagram- raatical nom de plume, which I take ' poetic licence ' to give the little steamer) started from Collingwood on her ' trial-trip,' as the first bearer of Her Majesty's mail to Eupert's Land. A crowd on the pier and on a large Chicago steamer cheered us as wo went off. Captain Kennedy, who in 1851 and 1853 commanded 18 EARTH, WOOD, AND WATER. III. U>f 2. " Sollicitant freta cwca — " )\\ I ■ '■ li "■ »:; ll r*F 1 111 [*£ Chill the morn and leaden- clouded, When the Georgian Bay^^ received us On her broad and heaving bosom, Bearing us from swamp and forest. From her embryo-port and city, From the rampart-ridge '^ that warded Waves and winds of western waters. " Aurum Irropcrtutn — " Lofty, steep, and long the mountain,^ 'Neath his mantle of deep greenwood (Quoth our gazing, gloating captain), expeditions sent out by Lady Franklin in search of her lost husband, had charge of the mail to the Red River colony, and proved a very entertaining companion. He left us at Grand Portage. ^ Sahgimah Odahkahwahbewin = Sahgimah's watching-place (see a. n. 15), or the Blue Mountains (h. 1. 1500 ft.). ^-Jl III. EARTH, WOOD, AND WATEK. 'Neath the blue clay and the grey rock Stores of yellow gold concealing. 4. " rupes, vastum quoe prodit in eequor, Obvia ventorum furiis, ezpCstaque ponto,"— Now it met us, as we voyaged, Jutting northward with the bold bluff Known as Cabot's Head^ to seamen, — Motley foliage ripphng under, Glancing streams of Hmpid sapphire Coiling through the bowery tangle. 19 5. "Noxerat— " Cheerly — 'mid the darkening ether, 'Mid the amethyst-dyed turkis, 'Mid the ebon- cinctured purpL , — = Though tlie great Genoese, who set sail across the broad Atlantic, and would not put back before reaching the West Indian islands, is rightly entitled the discoverer of the New World, yet, barring the dim annals of the Northmen, the great Venetian seems to have been the first discoverer of the main- land, when he sighted the coast of Labrador on Midsummer- day, 1497. c2 20 EARTH, WOOD, AND WATEB. Gleam'd the lighthouse-flame^, and sparkled Pale stars true to evening-muster, While the night-fire of the Ojibwa^s Shimmer'd on his holy island.20 III. 6. ■ variii fretacoD«ita terris — " III Silvery grew the sheen of Morning Gold-wreath'd, amber-tressed Morning, Bending o'er the watery champaign, O'er the diamond-spangled azure. As we thridded emerald islets, « Nodding spruce and dancing aspen, ^ Before we reached the Isle of Cores and its liglit, we had passed between two other islets of some elevation. That which was on our left is the subject of the following passage in Mr. A. Murray's " Eoport of the Progress of the Geological Survey of Canada for the year 1847-8," p. 120, under the head Niagara limestones: "On some parts of the coast the rock is worn by the action of the water of the lake into remarkable piUar-Uke shapes [by the bye, I observed one at Cabot's Head, and I would compare the Sugar Loaf rock at Mackinaw]. This is parti- cularly the case at Flower-pot Island, where one column was observed resembling a jelly-glass, being worn small near the base, and enlarging symmetrically toward the top." We saw III. EARTH, WOOD, AND WATER. 21 Launch'd at length on the broad channel,^ Where La Cloche 21 and Mahnitoolin 20 Eastward crowd their violet turrets, Where Saint Joseph's 25 blue shore shyly Peeps above the western mere-brim. 7. . " In parentis viscera intravit ause Detcrlor sBtas : emit ferrum grave." Brightest blazed the Sun-God's splendour, Highest soar'd his lamp's effulgence, When we landed on the drear rido-e 22 this one standing on the beach, and heard that there had been another, but it had fallen into the water. « We passed through the islets caUed ' The Ducks' at 5 a.m., proceeded along Great Mahnitoolin Island (1. 81m., a. 1600 sq.m.), and found our way into the North Channel (120 m. from W. to E., and 25 m. from N. to S,) through Missisahging Strait, which divides the tail of that large crawfish-shaped island from Cockburn Island. This island (about 13 m. from W. to E., and 9 m. from N. to S.) is thickly wooded, and only inhabited by the Eed Man. On its west, separated by a narrow channel, is Drummond Island (about 19 m, from W. to E., and 11 m. from N. to S.), a low, wooded, and unsettled island, belonging to the State of Michigan. C. (p. 27) speaks of it en passant as "in- teresting from its fossils." Good lithographic stone is said to have been found in it (see D., p. 114). 03 ill -I' I. V. % $■ 11 ' W- 1 22 EARTH, WOOD, AND WATER. Ridge strong-sinew'd limbs are delving, Tearing treasures, sacrilegious. From the thews of the Great Mother,*" Rifling wealth throughout the ages 'Neath Earth's solid ribs embedded. There the dull rock glistens gaud-like With the peacock's changeful plumage, "With the tints the Day-King's finger Braids upon the sable rain-cloud. Bare and parch'd and stern the surface, Save where struggles forth dwarf herbage, Stunted raspberry ^3, starv'd whortle.^^ 8. " xii) Zs^Jgfljo XiyiifrnievT»s k^Tte^ Then thrice welcome waved the wild wood Of Saint Joseph's ^^ teeming island, Fann'd by mild, mere-temper'd breezes, Scantly gemm'd with hut and * clearing,' — Tawny-arm'd squaws of tho savage ' See Lucretius, ii. 598 642. III. M III. III. EARTH, WOOD, AND WATER. Paddling by the bowery border, Answering the plash of paddle With clear, merry-ringing laughter. 23 9. " longos superant floxus, varligque teguntur Arboribus," — Welcome the fair groves that tower O'er the river of Saint Maiy —26 Broad stream studded with rock-islets, Islet bristling with lithe birch-stems,^^ Army white-clad and green-crested. Stem we now a raving torrent, Struggling through his serried crevass, Writhing, coiling, plunging, darting, Likest Lerna's mangled hydra. Now with clinging slime s we wrestle ; Now ascend a rolling river s AUuding to Mud Lake (1. 10 m., b. 5 m.) and Lake George (1. 8 m., b. 5 m.). In Mud Lake " is found a great abundance and variety of fishes, and also the salamander, which the Indians caU 'the walking fish' (Menobranch7(s), and which even to them is a great curiosity" (C. p. 29). 04 I 24 EARTH, WOOD, AND WATER. III. Shaking ofFhis mere-like slumber, — ^ Slumber after his wild surges O'er the rooks that block his journey, Where, with many a bound and eddy,— 28 As the giant of the ice-deep. Chief of all that swim wide ocean, Vex'd long while by venturous oarsmen, Stung by swarms of spears incessant, — Prone he speeds in fin-ious onset, — Tossing high his showery foam-spray, Tossing high frail boat of birch-bark 27 Guided by the dexterous paddle. '' For some distance below the Saut Ste. Marie rapids, the river (b. 1 m.) is particularly tranquil. III. 28 IV. SUNSHINE ON KEETCHI GAHMI. ipids, the 1. jurentui Per medium elaisi barbara rcnit Athon." Morn had flamed forth o'er dun pine-ridge, Ere our barque had trod the channel 2t> Hewn bj cunning of the White Man,— Path meet for his hugest fire-ship From the Leap 28 of Mary's River,26 Leap of Keetchi-Gahmi Seebi,— To the White Man's Lake Superior,3» To the Eed Man's Keetchi Gahmi,— 33 To the Eed Man's grand Great Water. 2. " implas Non tangenda rates transiliunt vada." Dainty tree-clad slopes 30 trip by us, Till the broad expanse is open'd wmmm A li m 26 SUNSHINE ON KEETCHI GAHMI. IV. With Mamainse's 30 blue heights northward, — Mount o'er mount, — a pile fantastic, — Wan, blanch'd, shadowy, grisly phantoms, Frowning on the pigmy Pale Face, Who could dare with hissing fire-boat Break the sleep of Keetchi Gahmi. " Jam medio apparet fluctu nemorosa Zacynthoi, PuUchiumquo, Samcquc, et Neritoi ardua aaxis." Verdurous Cahriboo * glides by us, Glide thy lush steeps, Missi Picoo'tong ! ^ Isle, whose bow'rs and land-clasp'd havens Seem to chide the sturdy woodman, Seem to beckon up the trader. 8. " — _ quid yesper serus veliat, .... quid cogltet liumtdua Austen Sol tibi signs dabit." Speeding on, we view'd the Sun-God In full sovran state descending, — » A low wooded island, so named from sixty cahriboos (see a. n. 34) having been killed on it by Captain M'Cai^oe, who accompanied Bayfield. I presume the Cahriboo I. in the Gulf of St. Lawrence owes its name to a similar occurrence. IV, rd,- IV. SUNSHINE ON KEETCHI GAHMI. Many a flowing robe of crimson Shrouding his retiring splendour,— With their long, wreath'd skirts forewarning Wind and rain and furious tempest. So I boded, though full gaily Flew we 'neath the cloudless welkin, Fann'd by wings of strong southeaster, — Flew beneath the hollow welkin, While night's gathering gloom enwrapp'd us. 27 cahriboos M'Cai^oe, I I. in the 'enee. 4. The Water Wraith's Home.»' "•^— humida rcgna." (1.) Far, far beneath the glassy pool, — That smileth false welcome to you who roam, That doth beguile With her sunny smile,— The Chief of the Water Wraiths doth rule, And hath his viewless home. * See a. n. 35, 36, 20, and, on the minerals, 32. 28 , SUNSHINE ON KEETCHI GAHMI. IV. ■if 'I (2.) "With his children fair, Of flowing hair, — ^ He haanteth there. (3.) Far, far beneath the -mountain-pine, — Beneath the summer-bloom, — Far, far beneath the murky mine, — ^^ Wliere never sinketh sounding-line, — Amid the grewsome sunless deep. Where all is still in trance-like sleep, — He dwelleth there, — Down in weird weedy coomb. (4.) Deep, deep below the rolling wave, He hath framed his wigwam in hollow cave. — Far, far below the fair free foam, Of the grim black ir'n ^2 he hath scoop'd its dome. Each corridor — It is bravely dight With the ruddy copper's dsedal ore, IV. IV. SUNSHINE ON KEETCHI OAHMI, Shot with crimson, and pink, And purple, and blue. And the colours that link Them, of myriad hue.— The walls — they are bright With the motley bands Of the dazzling sands Of wondrous Schkuee-archibi-kunff :— ^^ And above hath Missibeezi ^s hunir, I wis, a cunningly-woven roof: No earthly hand hath wrouglit its woof; It was brode not, I wis, by mortal wight ; It was brode by his children of flowing hair, By the Meemogovissiooees ^5 fair. — There mingle ^2 — hy eye of man unseen — In magic maze, chlorastrolite^i sheen, Violet amethyst °, malachite green, And silver white. And yellow gold : — There mingle, in many a beauteous twine, Gay rainbow-wreathed serpentine, « See VI. 1. 29 I :''