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Lorsque le document est trop grand pour dtre reproduit en un seul clich6, il est filmd d partir de Tangle sup6rieur gauche, de gauche d droite, et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre d'imagas nicessaire. Les diagrammes suivants illustrant la m^thode. >y errata 8d to int na palure, ipon d 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 32X FIFEEN MONTHS ROUllB ABOUT N.^, MANITOBA AND THE NORTH WEST. ntuvs BY jr. a. MOORB. PRICE SI XP E N C E4 Cr. BUYDKN, PKIITrBB, StBATFOKD-UPON- AVOJT. ^ I y^ fU-UoS TM (i^)l'U''" PIFTM MONTHS RODMD ABODT MANITOBA AND THE NORTH WEST. E MiUtum BY J. Or. MOORE. PRICE SIXPENCE. ♦ 'fi ■ M t - >. * . ■<• \ % TV. r ,.x » f v- fi .' (■- J- 1.1 i, ^-:^ 1 ^ C)l/. .o ■ - .-;^:.='-"j;. 1 •t, V '?";T'4:t I !■■ ^ : : Oil til) l^itli October, 1881, the SiiKliuiuii, a fine Btiiiiner of tlio Allan Line, earned out of the Mersey 600 passengers, many of wliom, like myself, were bound for Manitoba. Of our voyage generally I do not intend to say much, except that it was es[)eciariy rough f I hi green, flecked with streaks of gold, and resting on a base of deep purple, the whole surrounded by crimson fleecy clouds marks the approach of day . On our left, a barren, rocky coast, with tiny white cottages dotted up its moun- tain slopes. The surface of the ocean scarce stirred by a ripple, all the vast expanse of water acting as a mirror aiid flashing back the gorgeous beauty of the skies ; \\'iilst swv:eping over the sea, and now^and again laving theii' snowy breasts in the foam left in the steamer's wake, are scores of sea mews. I remember this morning far better than anything else that met my eyes during cm' run o v'er the Atlantic. Early the next day we were off Quebec, and the first view of tliis city is superb. It runs in the shape of an elongated horse- - . ,1, . .« J.-i •:\ 4^- •• f . flee doe h '" ' cloi roc tail rip] Eill. ' wli the f wa : , _■ -■: ■>■■■ -",~ -•■ - --- ■■:- ■■:---■-■ ■ -_■-.-■■ ^ i far " ' . ■ 8.U V,/ i ^% ^'l J om ' we ■ 611]; \ ■.#;■ ', " •- ' .. f i Oil tiio I'itli Ootobbi", 1881, th(3 SiiKliiiiuii, ii fine st'jiinLM' of tlio Allan Line, carried out of the Mersey GDO passeugvn'.s, many of wliom, liko myself, were bound for Manitoba. Of our voyage generally I do not intend to say mmdi, except that it was es[»eeiariy rough and disagreeable until we readied tht^ Grulf of iSt. LawreuoQ, when we met with glorious weatlier. One morning I remember espeoiidly. We had sighted a few icebergs, gliding by wiiite and ghost-like. As we passed on towards our destination iiuge wlial s and giMUipus were lazily rcdling on the summit of the sea, spouting now and again fountains of water into the air, and thousands of wild fowl weie resting on or flitting over the waves. It is sunrise. We are steaming along the coast of Gaspe land. An arc of light opal green, flecked with streaks of gold, and resting on a base of dee[) purple, the whole surrounded by crimson fleecy clouds marks the appT-oach of day. On our left, a barren, rocky coast, with tiny white cottages dotted up its moun- tain slopes. The surface of the ocean scarce stirred by a ri[)ple, all the vast expanse of water acting as a mirror aiui flashing back the gorgeous ijeauty of the skies ; vhilst sweeping over the sea, and now^and again laving thei:- snowy breasts in the foam left in the steamer's wake, are scores of sea mews. I remember this morning far better than anything else that met my eyes durirg oui' run Over the Atlantic. Early the next day we were off Uuebec, and the first view of tliis city is superb. It runs in the shape of an elongatod horse- bIioo aromul and frinp^iiif^ tlie hanks of thoSt. Lawrence river. ll(K'ky holglitf*, frowning batteries, and strong stout walls look down on the water h(»low from the one side, wliilst, on tlio opposite spur, fir-flad hillf«, with maple dressed in its autumnal tints poei)ing in here and tliere, attraft the eye from the (piaint stone churches, monasteries, and square houses, which, apparently, have hoeii sown hroad(iast hy some unprac- tised h'lshandman, for in one place they are grouped thickly together ; in another, two or three seem lost in a very network of roads. And now for the Custom House. All who land at (iuehec must ho prepared for a little inconvenience— perchance the loss of a little temj)er. The hcst thing to do is to stand quite still and let other people run and shout. You will get your baggage tlirough the hands of the examiners quicker, for they may have some sympathy with a few quiet individuals, but shout ers are a imisancjo anywhere, and imust be especially so to a busy man who has numbers •of them all at it together. Again, there is no reason for hurry; the train for Montreal will not leave until the luggage is all through and on board the train (as they say in Canada). Our experience is singular. Eniigrjints — male and female, Irish, Swedes, Scotch, and English — the broad dialect of Somerset side by side witli the clear enuncia- tion and prolonged o's and a's of Warwickshire; each woman with children, some with babies, all with bundles, asking for their goods, dancing after their boxes, and, Avhen obtained, dragging them here and there, and claijiouring in their mixture of tongues for immediate assistance, but in vain. The rule and practice is beautifully simple. From the hold pf the ship come up the huge boxes. These are placed on drays, driven by French Canadians, who dash off with their respective loads to a huge shed, turn round the vehicle, shoot out promiscuously on and over each other :a medley load of various weight, character, and sizes, m fou 5 mm and ano nt you covt FCv)r you. bine arou treat inE Canji |the ] !and . Ifortl laid o jment I toba. I kitch( ;] — or I shirts f shouL sports crocks butch J goods i opene I shouk I for tl: I These ^ fiuitab I or an ji St. Ijawreiice , and strong from tlie one [1 liillc, with ping ill liere (iuaint stone uses, •which, onie nnprac- are gnniped seem lost in tlie Custom prepared for S3 of a little quite still and will get your iners quicker, . a few quiet nywhere, and has numbers there is no real will not ugh and on uiada). Our e and female, — the broad alear enuncia- ckshire; each ies, all with after their em here and f tongues for le rule and e hold pf the ire placed on dash off with m round the rer each other ;er, and sizes, j in one small avalanclio. Just as vou have succrH?.- fully , fouglit 3'our wuy to one of your possessions, and ; having, by tlio r( uioval of a largo l)un(llo (fading ■\ nnicli like a fair division of Hro.'-ihovols, fcuther beds, ; and gridirons) gained one of your trunks, up comes anotlier wagon, wliips round, and shoots another cargo at you, when, to escape Ixjing ilattened out like a sole, you iloo from your position, wliilst your all but re- covered treasure is buried beneath the penat(?s of some score of emigrants. I'atienco is the only thing to aid you. You may find it a relief to your feelings, com- bined with a public exhil)ition of patriotism, to stand around, and converse loudly on the ditference between tlie treatment of your belongings by polite railway porters in England, and tiie gross disrespect shown by the French Canadians in (iuebec ; it may be a good way of reliev- ■^ing your wrath, and will keep you out of the way until iiihe luggage is sorted. Ihit, j'king apart, the Canadians I and Americans treat all baggage as if it had been made i for tlie express purpose of testing its strength tlirougli the laid of Imge nmscular porters : there is niucli improve- I ment needed here. A word as to what not to take to Mani- Itoba. Do not take fire-iro'js, cooking utensils (espeeiailly j kitcheners of gigantic size). Chairs, tables, revolvers ; — or buy a gun if you do not possess one— if you have I a gun t ke it ; but have with you warm clothes, flannel I shirts, underclothing, boots (one pair of which, for men, I should come up to the knee, like the field boots used by sportsmen), blankets, pillow-cases, and such like, crockery, spoons, forks, knives, and a good strong butcher's knife (always useful), a tin opener for canned J goods you will have to take on the prairies, and the best i opener I ever saw cost 4|d. in iStratford. Women I should take warm clothes for winter and print dresses H'or the summer. Do not carry axes, hammers, &e. I These things weigh, and you will l)uy tools far more 'Suitable to the country at AVinnipeg, Brandon, Eegina, jor any town in the Far West. A gun you will want ; but if you have not one you can buy one on tlie spot that will meet all your requirements and save (he ex- pense of f;arrin.f:i-o. liomeniber, 1001b. is all tlie Aveiglit you can take lliroup'h free, and extra cliarg-es are terribly lioavy. Tlie poorer class of emigrants should, before starting on the ears, buy some canned meats and biscuits to sa^'e tlie expense of meals by the way. There is always water on the cars, and you can get a cup of hot tea at certain stations on the route. Another thing — mind your luggage is all eliecked through to Chicago — i.e., you will see a porter carrying a collec- tion of brass numbers on straps. One of these, say No. 10, he will put on one piece of your luggage and give you a brass stamp bearing a corresponding Xo JO. You will not see the boxes until the train reaches Chicago, Avhen you will again re-check it to Winnipeg. Do this with all your belongings that you do not want daily — such as brush and comb, change of linen, &o., which place in a small handbag, and keep with you. An examination of baggage takes place by the United States Customs officers, either at Point Huron or St. Yinceiit. Everybody must g<>t out then, and open their boxes and show the contents. Failure in this will cost a great delay, as the baggage wdll be left on tlie ]ilatform. Now, having given you these few hints, I will resume my journey. A shout of "All aboard for Montreal" starts us from our various occupations, and we ar<3 soon ensroi:o(>d on the long" Pullman cars, steara- injr from (inebec to the (iueen Citv of the Dominion. Our \v;;y is through forest and prairie. Now we fly by a log hut, with the surrounding wheat stubble of last harvest being turned agjiin, ready for the ero[) of next season ; over wooden bridges, and across mighty rivers that rush and d.'ince on rocky boulders ; by forest trees clad in autumnal tints of every shade, from the Virginian creeper to the blight, golden yellow of the dwarf oak. Anon, we are at the base of mighty hills, girded about >\'ith the pine and hemlock, and capped the sj)ofc the ex- Aveiglit iXi'H are sliould, 3uts and le way. get a iiiotlier )ugh to . eolleo- m.y No. lid give Xo JO. reaches imipeg. ot want en, &c., ith you. United I or St. d open in this left on ^v hints, )ard for ns, and steam- minion. 3 fly hy of last )i Tioxt ' rivxTS 5t trees >m the of the r hills, capped with tlie pure, white snow. The clouds are rolling round and round the summit, and the sun shines on them and the mountain tops, and sprinkles the trees with ri])lets of silver. After mid-day, we reach Rich- mond, where lunch is provided. Then onward. The scene has changed. We are now running through fields well-oultivated, neat fences, and in each field wells of water for the cattle. Fine shorthorns look lazily up at ns as w(^ whiz by, and sheep rush away a space, and turn ag;iin to look. But enough of panorama, or I shall s(\irce reach Manitoba. At 6 p.m. we move slowly through the tubular bridge over the St. Lawi'ence (which a fellow-passenger informs us is two miles in length), and in a fefw minutes are in Montreal. This is a charming city, if I could wait to talk about it.- Mount Koyal, a fine mountain, stands alone like a sentinel on guard at the back, looking down upon the city, whilst the mighty St. Lawrence circles around its opposite boundary, bearing upon its bosom (a common but convenient illustration) huge ships of many nations. But we must onward. From Montreal we go to Toronto, thence to Chicago — a most appropriate dwelling for our Yankee cousins, full of bustle and energy, combined with a fair proportion of dirt. Next day away to St. Paul, by the Chicago, Milwaukee, and St. Paul Railway. One more journey, from St. Paul to St. Vincent, then over the Red River, and you are at Emerson, the gateway city of Manitoba. And now, 65 miles more, and you will be landed in Winnipeg, the capital of Manitoba, and the most wonderful city of modem times. But what is the scenery that has met the eye on our voyage (for in many things it resembles a sea voyage more than a journey by land)? It takes us through scenes that no words of mine can do justice to. in some places the forest, thick with many varieties of trees, blended in a mass of autumnal colour, not in shreds, but in one great mass, standing out against the liquid blue sky. Then we glide on to a. 11 the prairie. In a short timo there is no tree in sight ; nothing for miles and miles hut grass, rolling in billows exactly like a heaving sea. Again, we are run- ning alongside a large lake. Miniature wares are seething, and curling, and dashing on shore, whilst thousands of ducks, widgeon, and wild geese whirl and fly up, and settle. It is now nine at night. The con- ductor comes into the car, " Gentlemen, Winnipeg is in sight." A rush to the windows, we are dashing over the Red Kiver, and, in a semi-circle before us, lies the city. After a drive by the bright moon, we get a bed for the night, and, in the morning, rise to look at Winnipeg, the capital of the Lone Land. Ten years ago^ a few log huts encircled For^ Grarry, which stood in the midst of a large prairie comparatively unknown to the world. To-day, a city of nearly 30,000 inhabitants, with a world-wide reputation, rears its proud head to the sky, and the value of its buildings for the year 1882 has been assessed at 30,432,000 dollars, or £6,086,400 sterling- This is an increase of 1,000 per cent, during the last three years. With the exception of Chicago, it is doubtful if such an ad'^ance can be shown by any other modem city. The Red and Assineboine rivers here form a junc- tion, and make the southern and eastern boimdaries of the city. Close to the bridge over the Assineboine is what remains of old Fort Garry, although the outer walls, the bastions, and much of the building have been removed to make room for the widening of Main Street. We will now take our bearings. Due west lie the Rocky Mountains, to the east is Lake Superior, south we have the United States and Canada, north the prairie extends to Hudson's Bay. Main Street, the principal artery, is from 130 to 135 feet in width, and runs nearly parallel to the Red River. On each side of the street are built, or are in process of erection, elegant and stately buildings, for banks, stores, private d ling lu ire run- ff*s are whilst lirl and le con- eg is in g over es the a bed ook at rs ago^ in the to the itants, head )r the Ts, or 1,000 1 the 1 aa citj. juno- 'aries 3oine )uter hare r of J ; - the )uth the the and )ide on, ate- dwellings, and puLlic institutions. The electric light has superseded gas, and illuminates the entire length of the broad avenue — tram-cars pass and re-pass each other in quick succession — telephone communication is the rule, and not the exception, for every office and place of business. Four fine bridges span the two livers at different points; building goes on with in- credible rapidity. Even in my recollection, what has ' been rolling prairie is now a street with wooden pave- ment, gravelled roads, and rows of handsome dwelling houses. i-ii! ' The Anglican Church possesses Trinity Church and Christ Church, in addition to the Cathedral, two miles distant, which is situate on the banks of the lied Kiver,, ■ near Kildonan, and adjoining the residence of that much-loved prelate, Bishop Machray, the Bishop of Rupert's Land. The Roman Catholics are exceptionally strong in numbers and in wealth ; their charity is great, and, in ' addition to their cathedral, churches, and schools, they throw open to all in need the hospital at St. Boniface,, which is their owii institution. The Presbj^erians are an exceedingly powerful body, and besides their places of worship, have erected Manitoba College, ""here those studying for their ministry receive a superior education, to fit them for the office they have undertaken. . .. In addition to these, there are many Dissenting bodies, each with their chapels, and all forming them- selves into large congregations, St. John's College, which embraces also St. John's College for Boys and St. John's College Ladies' School,, is under the supervision of and governed by a council,, under statutes given by the Bishop of Rupert's Land. In addition to these, there are large middle class and other schools, sufficient to educate, and educate well,, all the juveniles residing in or near Winnipeg, so that no class is left without the means of obtaining an fi! \ ■ I 10 tilmost frr>e and sound education for their little ones. Having thus brietiy touched upon some of the institutions of the city, T will now draw your attention to the way in wliich emigrantts both male and female, obtain employment herp, niid the average wages earned by them. First the ladies: — The moat independent females 1 hare met with are decidedly what are termed in rural districts in England "washerwomen," or, ia the more refined diction of Manitoba, "laundresses." When I tell you (as a victim) that their charges lead not into habits of parsimony, or more economical outlay of coin entrusted to you, but rather verge on lavish expenditr^-e upon such ordinary articles of domestic comfort II i pocket-handkerchiefs and collars, you will agree with me that tliis is indeed the " Paradise of the Laundry." One dollar, or 4s. 2d., per dozen for each firti( le of attire, including the before- mentioned hand- kerchiefa and collars, must lead the operator from soapsuds and mangle to the more losy prospect of independence, and, indeed, I know of few better openings for the industrious woman than that of starting an English laundry. With respect to ordinary trades, mechanics, artisans, labourers, &c., I quote from the Winnipeg Daily Times of September 28th, 1882 : — Bricklayers per day I'm Od Stonecutters „ ' 16s 8d to fil Os lOd PliiHterers ,, IGs 8d MauhiniHtH ,, 16h Sd Sawmill ineu ,, IGs 8d Crtvpenteru ,, 15s Od to 16h Sd Mouldern ,, 14s 7d Painterrt.. ,, 128 6d to Us 8d BliickHTnitha ,, Tis 6d Tailors and Shoemakers ,, lOs 6d to 128 6d Labourers iu the city ,, 10s 5d to Us 6d Farm labourers, with board per month £8 6s 8d to £9 Gs Sd Servants, females, with board ,,. £3 2m 6d to £5 3s Od ti One thing detracts much from the beauty of Winni- peg. The huge signboards that hang, projecting from the stores to the street, are hideous in the extreme. A 1 ones. of the m •-Hentiou m ^eriifile, , ' efinied ' B pendent B termed B ' or, ia B resses." B es lead B outlay ■ lavish ■ >mestio ■ >u will I of the I r each 1 hand- I from I 3Ct of I nings ' I ig an I •ades, 1 I the 1 4* lOd • ? fi hj Id d • n- m A liuge Lottie, twentv feet In height, perched near the chimneys, and overshadowing tlieni, draws attention to the wine nierdiant. A laifro gilt hlnnderbnss denotes the gnnmalcer; anollic]' calls liis shop the Gokhni liion Store, and ontside is ;i. peat wooden pillar, with an impossible animal perched upon the top, heavily gilt, and apparently hungry, from the way he keejis his mouth open. The fishmonger possesses a huge imi- tation fish, projecting over your head as you pass, and standing at right angles to the building — from its size a shark, from its mild appearance and conformation, a tr<^nt. The sooner these horrors are presented as curi(.sities to a museum the better will be the ap- pearance of Winnipeg. Now, Avhat are tlie disadvantages of this country ? "We must look on both sides of all questions. Let us see how this stands the light of experience. To begin with — the winter is beyond all quest'on most severe, the tliermoraeter on exceptional occasions, and for a fihort time, touching J33 deg below zero, but, during the few weeks of the present winter I spent in Manitoba, with the exception of a 48 hours' spell of Aery cold weather, tlie winter was delightful — a blue sky, a brilliant sun, a dry delicious atmosphere that exhilarates you as you daiice more than walk along. All these help to dispel the idea of zeros, and give a feeling of perfect health and enjoyment. So much was this the case, that I more than once felt an almost irresistible inclination to offer a small boy 10 cents to retire into a secluded position and join in a game of leap frog. But you iiuifit be well clothed. Furs or the warmest of cloth should constitute your outer gar- ments, whilst a fur cap that will pull over your ears is indispensable. All these can be bought in Winni- peg. The winter lasts a little less than five months — ithen a sudden thaw leads up to /et weather, which renders the roads difficult to traverse. I'his thaw •occurs late in March or early in April, and the spring 12 that follows is nin«f «] adveraaries. I do nnf l '^,™w»«ve but flw »° you induces Mv^l^"'''^'''^«*heI• a week', fl ^''"' -ised b, thPXK tt t *^ ™- o" -t ef»x7eKa£|^t.s^3j- up snow f' ^''* '"*« *^e nearest raw;f adjacent, or fail. ^ ■ on with; clurinsr I- Tile that 13 :\ they fall, and, if they slumber, die. But this is an exceptional storm — of no moment in the towns, only dangerous when encountered on the prairie; easily overcome with care, or in the company of old settlers. Another drawback is the high rent charged in Winni- peg. A small house for an artiean costs from £3 to £4 per month, but you must })lace on the other side the high wages obtained. Provisions are much dearer than in Southern Canada at present, but the vast herds of cattle now grazing on the prairie and the increased facility of transport will soon relieve the pressure in this respect. Indeed, beef is as cheap in Winnipeg to- day as it is in Stratford-upon-Avon. For amusement, there is cricket and lawn tennis in summer ; in winter, skating, curling, snow-shoeing, and shooting, in season. Talking of cricket, reminds me of an anecdote in which one of our friends over the border acted as umpire, which I will briefly give you. A match was being played at Toronto some years back, but, through some mishap, the umpire did not appear in vime to begin his duties. Whilst debating the •choice of another to fill the place, they were addressed by a gaunt Yankee who was standing near nursing a large sun umbrella, " What is your difficulty ? " " We hav e no umpire." " I'll empire for you," quoth the long one. " Do you know cricket ? " *' I'd blush to murmur." So^ accordingly, hs wa^ cordially thanked and taken to thf wicket. A clergyman, a Mr. Phillips, did battlf for Toronto, and took the first over. The American umpire was placidly smoking a cigarette, apparently enjoying the view of the ad- joining country, when a sharp '* How's that ? " an appeal as to a catch at the wicket, aroused him. " How's what ? " retorted umpire. " That catch," replied wicket - keeper. " Was there a catch ? " " Yeb." ** This must be a subject of investigation,'* and, slowly proceeding to the other wicket, he opened Jiis umbrella, and thus cross-examined the astonished 14 ! i) club ? " batsman. " Did you liit that ball with your " Well, I don't know that I am bound to answer, but I think I did." To wicket keeper, " Did you ketoh that ball, short si op ? " " Yes." To batsman, *' Your club hit that ball you say." " Yes." I Jecision, " Then, by Mesopotamia, you're out." I am reminded thsit the expense oi passage and land travelling to Winni])eg has not yet been touched upon. The reason is this, tliat in the books published by the Government all suoh particulars are duly set foiili, but I may briefly say this^ — Go by tlie Allan line of steamers from Liverpool to Quebec. It is the most comfortable and cheap travelling, 'i^heir assisted rates are as follows : — " Agricultural labourers, i53 to Quebec ; artisans and mechanics, £4; children between I arid 12 years, £2; infants, 10s; all rail route to Winnipeg, £i 8s lid." I cannot advise the Lake route at present, although it is cheaper. The arrangements ure not so complete as to make it advisable to put them to the test. Go in the months of April, May, or June. The winter will be over, the ground ready for seed ; work everywhere will be flourishing and abundant, but you may find travelling over the prairie wet. A word as to savings. One proof as to the prosperity of a country is to be found in the savings of the working classes, and in this respect you will find Winnipeg to be in a most flourishing state. From Mr. Drunimond's returns, the Receiver-General of the City, I take these extracts : — Up to October, 1882, the deposits in the Post-ofiice Savings' Bank in AVinnipeg reached the total of £122,106 whilst the amount deposited from the 1st to the 8th of July in that year reached a no less sum than .£48,352. This money is almost exclusively the savings of the working classes, and when we reflect that a proportion of the earn- ings had been expended in the purchase of land in the outskirts of the city for the purpose of erecting dwel- lings for occupption, and that all the principal com- mercial banks have a separate branch for savings, club ? " I', but I toh that ;>'ir club 'iieu, by id land t upon. l>y the », but I earners srtable >llows : ns and , .£2; lid." ugh it ete as in the ill be 3 will Blling proof 1 the ^you 3tate. aeral 3ber, k in hilst lulv rhis dug im- the v^el- )ni- ^gs,. I A6 besides tlie amounts sent by P.0.0. to tlio uives and families at home, I tliiuk you -will agroe with me that the labouring classes must bo doing- well. As a further proof of their progress, I will read you an extract from a letter dated j)ecemher 11th, 1882, written by a Mr, John Hale, a lather, of 1 6, Stoke New- . ington-road, London, published in the liondon papers. He says — " I worked on several jobs where bricklayers and plasterers had to do their own labouring, because they could not get labourers. No man thinks of doing anything for less than cSs. 4d. per day. Good boys can gets a much ns 6s. Id. per day. I knew women that were making their £4 Jis. 4d. per week at laundry • : work. I should add that working men and their families must expect a little rough life for a few months, until they get properly settled down." And ; he adds: — " My advice to anyone who thinks of going to Ameiica at all is to go to Manitoba, as anyone willing to work can get it there, and make money. But I Avould not advise anyone to go there who drinks. . All driiiks there cost 10 cents each, except milk, which can be bought for od. per quart. A man who drinks heavily is worse off there than here " A word as to our imports and customs duties paid. Eight months' • trade with England and the United States up to ^ September 1st shows : — In 1882 5,230,378 dels., against 1,820,941 dels, in 1881, showing an increase of ' 3,419,437 dels., or about £683,887. But whilst trade ■' with the States and Engla,nd has increased, it is abso- ; lutely nothing to be compared with that done with ' Lower Canada. For the fiscal year ending June, 1882, this amounted to 10,575,770 dels., or about £2,1 15,154. Now, as to employment for boys. Perhaps some of the most industrious of our inhabitants in the cities are ' the newspaper lads. Very different are they from the ragged urchins who follow a similar profession in our great centres. These small vendors of news are all well clad, cleanly in appearance, and courteous in manner. 16 i V' It is one of the sights of the capital to see these little busyhodies in the winter, trotting about in their fur oaps and warm coats, offering their papers for sale. Tliey make it pay well, too. I have it on the authority of one of the editors of a daily paper that most of these little ones eani not less than 3s. 6d. to 58^ per day. And now for agriculture. The land on each side of the railway for a distance of 24 miles in breadth is termed the railway belt, and as far as the Caiiadiau and Pacific llailway line has been run west of Winnipeg (about 500 miles), it is divided into townships. Each township contains 36 square miles, and is divided into 36 separate square miles, which are termed sections, and each section is divided into four equal portions of 160 acres each. The 36 sections are numbered con- secutively from 1 to 36. The even numbered ones belong to the Government for the pu: ;"Ose of homesteads and pre-emptions for settlers, with the exception of two which belong to the Hudson Bay Company, and can be purchased at prices varying from 25s to 3os per acre, without any settlement duties whatever. The odd numbered ones are owned by the Central Pacific Railway, except Nos. 11 and 29, which are reserved for the purposes of education, and are sold by public auction, and the proceeds applied solely for the support of educa- tion. Any vacant quarter section of 160 acres can be selected and entered upon by the emigrant on payment of 50s, and a further condition of a residence of six months in each year on the land for a term of three years, the building of a house, and the cropping of fifteen acres of land. At the expiration of that period he then has the right to purchase the adjoining 160 acres at the sum of 8s 4d to 10s 6d per acre, and this is termed his pre-emption, nominated and chosen by him at the time of his entry. Prom the Central Pacific Railway the land can be bought at 10s 6d per acre, payable, if wished, in six mmual payments, with interesi at six per cent, per ■ ■« i'mittmuii t-an i ifc* 1'?^^'-. hesG little their fur ' for sale. authority 8t of these day. 'h side of )readt}i is fidiau aud ^Vinnipeg >s. Each ided into sections, ^rtioiis of •red con- red ones tuesteads n of two and can ler acre, .'he odd Pacific rved for auction, educa- can be lyment of six three ing of right 8s 4d ption, entry, can in six ;. per annum, upon certain conditions of breaking and crop- ping. A rebate of one half of the purchase money is returned to the farmer upon all the hind placed under rrop in the course of tlie five years. It is only right to warn intending settlers flint there is very little land re- maining for settlement Avithiu the railway belt near to the large cities, or adjoining a railway station. If the emigrant who is wishing to farm be not possessed of capital sufficient to buy land, my advice to him would be to get just as far west as he is compelled to go to obtain good land in the railway belt, and, having secured his property by entry at the nearest land-office, to then obtain work at a farm in the locnlity for the summer, where lie wiU pan; Troni £G to £7 per month and his board. With tiiis money he will be able to hire a team and plough and break part of his land ready for the next year's eroy)ping. lint to those who possess some capital I would say, buy an improved faiTO and, if possible, near to a growing city. You will obtain these, with a log-house, stables, granary, wells sunk, part fenced, and, most important of all, a number of jicres ]»l«Mip'h((l, ready to be cropped, for from three to four pounds per acre, and the first season's crop will, over and above the expenses, pretty nearly pay for your land. The first twelve months is the hard time for a settler on virgin soil. He has his land to break, hardly any crop to look forward to, hay to gather and cut, house and buildings to erect, whereas, if the ploughing be ready to hand, house and buildings up, and a golden harvest the first year, he is on his way to indej)endence at a small outlay. My reason for saying hardly any crop to look forward to is this. It is true, that he can plant potatoes on the broken prairie soil, and he can obtain a light crop of oats ; but all the spare time he can give should be devoted to breaking, so that the hot summer sun and the prairie wind will rot the grass and make it ready for back ploughing in the autumn. U'his, after a 18 i:, 1 wintfir on it, comes out a fine tilth in the spring of the following year, and ready for crop. Prior to the purchase of any land or even gointj; to view it for the purpose of settlement, go to the nearest Dominion land office, and ask to see the surveyor's report upon this particular section. You will be mot with all kindness, and information most fully given to you there. Of course, bad land, medium land, and good land, heavy clay, deep black loam, sandy loam, and worthless sand hills, are all to be found there, but the good far exceeds the bad. A guide to all land is the classifica- tion made by the surveyors by their division of the soil into classe 1, 2, 3, 4, &c., according to quality, which classification will be shown to anyone in the land office. One word as to the pamphlets circulated by some of the railway companies of the United States. Do not trust them. One contained the followin.g^ paragraph : — " The climate of Manitoba consists of seven months of Arctic winter and five months of cold weather." This has called forth a righteously indignant denial from Arch- bishop Tache, avIio says, in a letter bearing date 25feh October, 1882 : — " For my part, after 37 years of experience, I find the climate more pleasant in Manitoba than in any other country I have seen." And, generally, a severe contradiction is given to the whole of these false statements. The Americans have a lot of poor land for sale, and they are apt to puff up their own goods by depreciating those of their neigh- bours. A great bugbear to many is the Indian, and thia fear has not been diminished by the railway and newspaper reports of the United States. Amongst my introductions in Winnipeg must be ranked very high an interview with a lady known as the Queen of the Swampis. This monarch is neither youthful nor beautiful, but her regal attire is beyond dispute unique. Her Majesty was robed in an old scarlet officer's coat of ancient cut, given to her, I understand, from the If) Govoniniont ston*^, iipoii tlio broast of vliicli woro Buspeiiflt?'! nuiny Hihvr iiifMlals of tin* dini'Misionft of an. ordinary It'ii-cii]). Her lioud-dn^ss was coiu- poscd of soTiitt material likt^ very iiin'ieiit; and ill- \180<1 la])ostry, whilst, abovti lu'r iiiocnssins, wore tuokoil u|) tlio extremities of what ^[rs. (jruiidy torniH unmentionables, or the tailor tr>usors. As far as I could plean from a disjointrd and brief conversation "witli this Swampieiui beauty, she was possessed with an irresistible cravinpj to gaze upon the lineaments of our most gracious Majesty as engraved by the autliorities of the Mint upon 2') or oO cent, pieces, which coinafj;e, wlien ex- hibited by the possessor, were promptly ])0uclied by the ladv. To those desiring an interview there is no diffi- culty eitlier to see or speak to lier. On a subsequent occasion Madame was going in for u^stheticism. l-)uring her promenade of Main Street slie passed a well-known music store, owned by one of the favourite " boys " of the city, who called in the Queen and presented her with a large red and black Japanese umbrella, and a huge paper sunflower for a fan. To see the old lady in her regimentals, with the umbrella open and the flower held like a dagger in the other hand, passing through the staring crowd with the placid look of stolid satisfac- tion on her dusky face, would have exhilarated Oscar Wilde and charmed his followers. Naught impresses till Indian like finery. An old paiish beadle or a town crier in the uniform of our forefathers would strike more awe iuto his or her bosom than a view of the Governor-General attended by the magnates of the Dominion. The North American Indian of Canada is a well-contented, peaceable individual, well treated by the Government, safe fiom intrusion upon his own territorial reserves, in receipt of treaty money yearly,, presented with oxen, ploughs, harrows, and seed for his land, with the vast ^"rairies, forests, and rivers free to him. to hmit and to trap, and, above all, living under an 20 ;i '1 admuiistrati(jii of justice wliioh gives liiiii an equality witli, and protects ]iis rights as much, as those of his white neighbour. There is but little fear, eitlier in the present or the future, of any outbreak on liis part. The worst characteristic of the Indian is his inattention to the lavatory. Wasliing is not amongst liis virtues, and Dickens's '"' unso<>ped of Ipswich " might be coadjutors of the Cj'ee, the Blackfeet, tiie Cioux, the JUoods, and the Swampis. But as it is well to ad<luce testimon}'' upon this point, I will read to you tiie opinion of Max Adeler, an ATiierican writer. "Now some think that the red iiiau disphij's a want of good taste in declining to bathe himself ; but I dou't. What is uiit ^ It is simply — matter; — tlie same kind of matter that exists every where. Tlie earth is made of dirt ; the things we eat are dirt, and they jjtvdw in tlie dirt ; and when we die and are buried we return again to thiMJirtfrom which we were mside. Science says that all dirt is clean. Tiie sa%';ige Indiau knows this; hi.s original miud grasps tliis idea ; he has his ^>agle eye ou science, aud he has no soap. Dirt is icarin. A layer one-sixteenth of au inch tliivk on a man is said by Professor Huxley to ho as comforfcahle as a fifty-dollar suit of clothes. Why, thou, should the cliild of the forest undress himself ouce a week by scraping this off, and exjioso himself to the rude blasts of winter':' He has too much sense. His head is too level to let him take a square wash more than ouce in every twenty years, aud even thtu he dou't rub hard. Now, many ignorant people consider scalping iuhumau. I don't. I look upon it as one of the most beneficent processes ever introduced for the amelioration of the sufferings of the race. What is hair V It is an excrescence. If it grows, it costs a man a great deal of money and trouble to keep it cut. If it falls out, the man becomes bald and the flies bother him. What does the Indian do in this einorgeucy. With characteristic sagacity he lifts out the whole scalp aud euds the annoyance and expense. Aud then look at the saving from other sources. Professor Huxley estimates that 2,000 pounds of the food that a man eats in a year go to nourish his hair. Remove that hair aud you save that much food. If I had my way I would have every baby scalped when it is vacciuateJ, as a measure of political economy." In the North-west men are made temperate by Act of Parliament. It is a very grave olfence, and punishable with a heavy fine, to introduce or carry with you any stimulant whatever. This also applies to the piinciual 21 portion of iVl!mitol)a, the exooption heiiig in flio oities where mvniioipnl .government has been estuhlislipd, and drunkenness can bo dealt with l)v th*^ arm of the civil law. The reason of this law beino* so ricforouslv enforc3il is to praveiit any fii'3- water findin;^ its way to the Indian, for if lie imbibes tin fiery spirit, it >^enms to diamine him into a veritable fiend. Medicinal permits are granted to tra^'e]lers solely by the Lieuten;int-(TOvernor of the Province, or of the North- west territoi'ies. I will give you an experience of a drive across the prairie nn'lertaken in the spring of last year, which will show you a few of the difficulties to be met witli. Six of us in party, we started by train from AVinnipeg to Grand Valley, which is on tlie opposite bank of the Assineboine to Brandon, about Wl miles west of our starting point. We reached here about five p.m., and calmly awaited our two wagons and teams whi(^li had to cross tlie ferry. AVe did wait — until six the next morning, for the owner of the ferrv declined conveving the horses over until that time. In vain were all our powers of persuasion tried, dollar notes wore smiled at, invective was useless, so we awaited his good pleasure. A little before seven we were able to load up, and started for llapid City. Our way lies over an undulat- ing country, fairly settled v.-ith farmers. We cross ex- temporised bridges laid over the mud in the coullees, dash through a small creek or two : ducks aud tf^al by hundreds swim in tlie little lakes, now on tlie riglithand and now on the left, plovei's — pretty little fellows with long golden legs and speckled jackets — pi'jiirie grouse, wood part] idge, falcons, and bitterns, with many gor- geous-plumed visitors to these regions, cross our j)ath again and again. In about three hours we reach Kapid City. Do not picture to yoursel f a second Winnipeg^ Kapid (Jity, altlntugh a flourishing town, would bo termed here a village. The town stands on the banks of the little 8asketchewan river, and, as it is growing fast, If i 1 22 the inhabitants think it only wants tho I'ailway to bloom forth into a Cliicago. Plere we waited, took out the horses, rested them, baited them (not forgetting our- selves), then on towards the three forks. To reach this point we liad to cross several mud holes, some covered with sheets of water, others apparently dry, but with a thin coating of treacherous mud. In one of the former we were firmly fixed. In vain the driver shouted his most persuasive shout to encourage the horses. They pulled until exhausted, and then lay down. Out jumped the Jehu, up to his waist in water and liquid inud, unfastened the traces, took the horses out, and led them asliore, and the whole company had to plunge in, put tlieir shoulders to the wheels, and at length out rolled wagon No. 1 ; but in the meantime wagon No. 2 had charged the mud, and likewise was stuck fast, so we had the delight of repeating the performance with as much celerity and despatch as we could muster. The greater portion of tlie land from Rapid City to the Three Forks is good, although some alkali exists. This is ensily recognisable, as the deposits of alkali lie white and glistening on the surface of the soil, and sliould always be avoided as land unfit to settle on. Abciit 4 p.m. we reached the Three Forks, which is a •solitary house standing on the prairie, from which point tliree trails strike out in various directions. Up to this time we had made about fifty miles. Another rest of two hours. Then we resume our journey. The scene improves. Bluffs of timber crown the little enimences, large lakes Hash in the setting sun, myriads of gulls fioat in the air around us. These birds are quite safe from the farmers, perfectly harmless to the •crops, for they will not touch grain, yet they devour the grassliopper and all insects injuiious to tho growth ■of the plant, so it is not to be Avondered at that the gull should bo regarded as a friend to be encouraged. About six we pass a beautiful lake called Salt Lake irom its briny water. On the far side of this lake. 23 lo bloom I out the g our- cli this covered with a former ted his They Out liquid and led nige in, ?th out ti No. 2 fast, so e with :•. The ■ to the exists, iali lie il, and tie on. eh is a which I. Up nother The little yriads Is are the evour rowth eguU aged. Luke lake, from the trail we are taking, stands a long granite cliff, about two or three miles in length. Green moss is trailing down its perpendicular sides Lintii it reaches the tiny waves of the lake, whilst tlie summit, fiat as a billiard table, is one white carpet of strawberries in bloom. On the surface of tlie lake, which is quivering and dancing in the fading light, rest or roam, accord- ing to their desire, thousands of Avaterfowl — coot, loon, teul, Avild duck, and diver. This is a sweet spot, but succeeding scenes, other lakes, rolling prairie, sparkling creeks, quickly follow as we drive onward. It was ten at night when our horses plunged into the shallows of Shoal Lake —clear, pellucid water, rolling up to a beach of tiny stones. Here we find a log hut, where we rest for five hours, and then our party and wagon start on for Birtle, our destiiuition. The other team is too much played out to proceed for oome hours, so we lead the van. The half moon has just risen, and gives some light as we move onward, i'rogs in full song nil the air with their strange chorus. INight or mosquito hawks shriek as they dash and circle after their prey. Save this, the night is still. Deceived by the moon- light, we lose our track, and are bmied up to the axles in an alkaline mud pit. This is a more serious stoppage. Horses have to be taken out, all portmanteaus, food, and rugs have to be taken to the bank, the seats to be unscrewed and removed, and then, for more than an hour, we try, and try in vain to move the vehicle. As a last resort we procui-e stakes of wood, and whilst three lift at the wheels, the others place first one piece and then another under the rim, and so inch by inch, first at one wheel then at the other, groping in the mud one minute, shoulders to the wheel another, and lifting another, we gradually but slowly extricate our wagon. With seats screwed on again, all re-loaded, we proceed. Soon daylight is approacliing. One minute the moon shines triumphant in the heaven, the next phe seems but a piece of pale blue paper with all her glory gone, '■■ ii; 24 for the sun has rifen with a hound, and tlirows a warm crimson glow over prairie and lake, and. imparts a sense of wannth and companionship to us. We are nearing Birtle. This is Surrey surely-r-liill and dale, woods and river, farm-houses peeping out from their resting places, wheat and. oats growing luxuriously. But my com- panion is sleeping. I hold him on to his perch, and then find myself violently bowing and nodding, and he is liolding me on. A cry from the driver, " Birtle." We rub our eyes, and gaze about as if such a thing as sleep were unknown in our experience. Pictuie to your- selves a Malvern doubled, hills on each side. In the valley, a sweet little river dancing round and over rocks, and twisting here and. there until it is lost to sight in the green foliage on either side. The hills broken into gullies, whose sides are wooded tier upon tier to tlie sky line. Over the Bird Tail Creek or river a wooden bridge, and a small village, with its church and school, its stores and houses. This will give you some sort of an idea of my first bird's eye view of Birtle. Time will not allow me to continue the record of our trip to Fort EUice the following day ;. but I will call your attention to the fact that we reached Birtle, ninety-four miles from Grand Valle}^, at five in the morning, and without unduly distressing our horses. The neighbourhood of Birtle is exceedingly fertile and well farmed ; there is quite a large agri- cultural community there, and most of them English. I was told that at the last ball given in the winter there were more than seventy ladies present, so you see it cjmnot be uncivilised. We had. to drive ninety-four miles ; now Elk Head, a station on the Central Pacific Bailway, is only eighteen miles distant, and the Portage and Westbourne railway ai'e pushing forward their line, which will be close to Birtle. I fear I have failed to convey to your minds one half of the natural beauties of Manitoba. First I must give precedence to the Aurora Borealis. 'This is a 25 y ^HTjse of • Birtle. I river, places, com- C'b, and and he Mle." ling as yoiir- In the r rocks, ost to e hills 1 tier reek or ith its is will I's eye ntiniie ? day ;. eached at five ig our lingly agri- iglish. vinter ou see "-four entral id the [•ward 3 half must is a^ common but nevertheless ever changing scene of beauty. Sometimes the whole world seems ablaze with its light. Let me try and sketch to you such a scene. A half circle, occupying one-fourth of the visible heavens, apparently made of white lumnious lace, fring'^d with pinnacles, each space tipped with a quive. ^' pink edging, whilst overhanging all is a second arc of the bluish green peculiar to the Polar E-egion — the whole is in rapid movement. One minute the bow rises majestically, and expands only to sink gracefully down the next. Again it rises higher and higher. Now the upper shafts of opal contract and touch the lower bow. Picture thousands of white peaks, tipped witli exquisite colour, all with the same slow grace saluting each other. Bight overhead, away from the arc, is a canopy of shifting light and colour, trembling and full of stars. Words are inadequate to paint such loveliness. I fear I have failed to convey to your minds one half of the natural beauties ol' Manitoba. The prairie clad in exquisite flowers, varying from the lavender crocus of spring to the tiger lily, the blush red rose, the purple and white prairie clover, the silver willow, the wild pea blossom, the *tiny cactus, with its pink star rising in the centre, the pretty primula, a rich, red, velvety flower with an orange cross, whose name I know not — all these and many more, waving and nodding to the breeze and intermixed with the feather grass, the Seneca, the reed, and the crested sedge, only partially con- cealing in some parts, in others failing to hide the red burnished glow of acre after acre of strawberries, whose life blood we press out with our wheels as we drive onward. Again, the plum, most delicious of all wild fruit, the grape, the cherry, the raspberry, black and red, the black gooseberry, high and low bush cranberry, blue bear and buffalo berry, and the hazel nut — these, ■with myriads of mushrooms in spring and fall constitute * Macoun. 26 •our wild fruit, and atld to the beauty of this great lone land. To the sportsman there is a paradise. In the big game we have the moose, the waphiti or big elk, the jump- ing deer, buffalo, musk ox, mountain sheep, and goat, the grizzly bear, the black and the cinnamon, lynx, the grey wood wolf, and the small prairie wolf, the wolverine, hare, and other smaller animals. In winged game we have wild swans, geese, grouse, spruce pai-tridge, sage cock, sandhill crane (the best game bird I have yet eaten), five kinds of plover (all good on toast), snipe, twenty-two species of duck, and, in all, " Macoun " gives forty kinds of game birds in this province. No license is required. You are not warned off any shoot- ing ground. A few miles from the cities you can find big and feathered game, and kill it in season. The grizzly bear is only found near the Rockies, but the black and cinnamon are common, the former being ■ comparatively quiet, and the latter seldom interferes with the traveller unless he commences hostilities. Game you can shoot in any quantity in season, and the product of the hunt helps to save the butcher's bill, besides giving grand sport. It is seldom that one hears a goose story. I will tell you a wild goose tale, as I heard it. An officer of the Hudson's Bay Company, Mr. Prudem, now living but a few miles from Winnipeg, was on the look-out to shoot wild geese as the flocks were passing south from their unknown breeding grounds. He had his chance, fired, and dropped a bird ; she turned out to be only wounded, so her captor treated her with care and nursed her. In a few weeks Mrs. Goose was able to waddle around and take obser- vation. So tame did she become that every Sunday, when her owner went to church, the bird attended him to the door, partly nmning and partly flying. But, spring had come, and with its genial warmth brought the flocks of wild fowl flying north to their nesting places, and one morning the goose lifted herself up on her wings, and joined a passing band of h h h V a I 1 E £ 27 e land, game jump- goat, X, the the nnged ridge, ive yet snipe, eoun " . No shoot- in find The ut the being erferes ilities. id the 's bill, 5 hears e, as I ijjany, nipeg, flocks 3eding ped a captor weeks obser- inday, d him But, ought 3sting If up d of her kind. The for some time owner had forgotten his patient by the autumn, and already flocks of geese had passed South again, fleeing from the Arctic cold, when one day watcliiug from his door he saw a bird drop from her score of mates, and circling round, alight almost at his feet, nni up to him with outstretched neck, many gooseiau songs of joy, much shaking and chatter- ing of wings. Again did the bird go to church, and stopped in her old resting place for the winter. Spring saw her join once more a passing crowd of geese. Autuniu ])elield her return, but not alone. Madame had brought with her a young* goose, wlio was intro- duced with irmch fuss and ceremony to her master, but the juvenile did not take to the new life, and in a few hours flew away to join in the Southern flight. The old bird took to its winter habits, and after passing her time as in preceding years, once more in springtime opened wide her pinions and fled away with a migratory band. She never returned. This anecdote can be fully authenticated. Query . — Have birds memories ? Time has not allowed me to speak of the new discoveries. I will briefly say that four gold mining companies are steadily at work on Lake of the Woods, 135 miles east of Winnipeg, and the assays of the quartz are rich in the extreme, richer, in fact, than any existing mine. Coal is found, and now being worked on the Souris and Saskatche- wan rivers, whilst hematite iron ore, yielding 75 per cent, of pure iron, lies on the shore of Lake Winnipeg. This is additional proof, if needed, of the future greatness of this country. It is no part of my duty here to-night to endeavour to catch emigrants. I simply give you my own views, and what has struck me in the fifteen months I have spent in this part of the Dominion of her Majesty. But if any wish to join and aid in the future of Manitoba, there is a hearty welcome to all who possess but one quality, and that 28 is indnstr}'. The loafer is not required. Brains or hands, or both, must be used, and then no man or woman in the posses qon of youth and strength need fear the result. Some hard experience may conio to the new settler, but that will be tempered to 3''ou by the unfailing kindness of our Canadian brethren. In truth, their hospitality is without bound. Poverty you need not fear. During the time I have spenf there I have not yet been accosted by a beggar, and mendicity is unknown. Strange as it may seem, incredible as it appears, that benighted land possesses not a workhouse, and no collector of poor's rates knocks at a single door. Wide open are spread the arms of invitation to all workers. Thousands upon thousands more can join in the wealth nature has so lavishly bestowed. If times are hard with you here, there is well-paid labour for every busy hand and working brain. Above your heads still will float the Union Jack of England, in your walks abroad, in your very labour, in your daily life, the same old language will meet your ear. English hands will grasp yours, and English hearts be more ready there, perhaps, than here to show their sympathy in your disc^ppointment. Permit me, in conclusion, to quote to you an extract from Lord Dufferin's speech when Governor- Greneral in 1877 :— "In a word, apart, secluded from all extraueous influences, nestling at the feet of her majestic mo^^her, Canada dreams her dream, and forebodes her destiny — a dream of ever broadening harvests, multiplying towns and villages, and expanding pastures ; of page after page of history added as her contribution to the annals of the Mother Country, and to the glories of the British race; of a perpetu.ition for all time upon this continent of that temperate and well-balanced system of government which combines in one mighty whole, as the eternal possession of all Englishmen, the brilliant history and the traditions of the past, wltkthe freest and most untrummelled liberty of action in the f utuxeJ' STRATFOEB-UPON-AVON PBINTED BY Q. BOYDEN, "HEEALD" OFFICE, HIGH STIIKKT. .