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 32X 
 
FIFEEN MONTHS ROUllB ABOUT 
 
 N.^, 
 
 MANITOBA 
 
 AND 
 
 THE NORTH WEST. 
 
 ntuvs 
 
 BY 
 
 jr. a. MOORB. 
 
 PRICE SI XP E N C E4 
 
 Cr. BUYDKN, PKIITrBB, StBATFOKD-UPON- AVOJT. 
 
 
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 TM 
 
 (i^)l'U''" 
 
PIFTM MONTHS RODMD ABODT 
 
 MANITOBA 
 
 AND 
 
 THE NORTH WEST. 
 
 E MiUtum 
 
 BY 
 
 J. Or. MOORE. 
 
 PRICE SIXPENCE. 
 
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 Oil til) l^itli October, 1881, the SiiKliuiuii, a fine 
 Btiiiiner of tlio Allan Line, earned out of the Mersey 
 600 passengers, many of wliom, like myself, were bound 
 for Manitoba. Of our voyage generally I do not 
 intend to say much, except that it was es[)eciariy rough 
 
 f 
 I 
 
 hi 
 
 green, 
 flecked with streaks of gold, and resting on a base of 
 deep purple, the whole surrounded by crimson fleecy 
 clouds marks the approach of day . On our left, a barren, 
 rocky coast, with tiny white cottages dotted up its moun- 
 tain slopes. The surface of the ocean scarce stirred by a 
 ripple, all the vast expanse of water acting as a mirror 
 aiid flashing back the gorgeous beauty of the skies ; 
 \\'iilst swv:eping over the sea, and now^and again laving 
 theii' snowy breasts in the foam left in the steamer's 
 wake, are scores of sea mews. I remember this morning 
 far better than anything else that met my eyes during 
 cm' run o v'er the Atlantic. Early the next day we 
 were off Quebec, and the first view of tliis city is 
 superb. It runs in the shape of an elongated horse- 
 
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 Oil tiio I'itli Ootobbi", 1881, th(3 SiiKliiiiuii, ii fine 
 st'jiinLM' of tlio Allan Line, carried out of the Mersey 
 GDO passeugvn'.s, many of wliom, liko myself, were bound 
 for Manitoba. Of our voyage generally I do not 
 intend to say mmdi, except that it was es[»eeiariy rough 
 and disagreeable until we readied tht^ Grulf of iSt. 
 LawreuoQ, when we met with glorious weatlier. One 
 morning I remember espeoiidly. We had sighted a 
 few icebergs, gliding by wiiite and ghost-like. As we 
 passed on towards our destination iiuge wlial s and 
 giMUipus were lazily rcdling on the summit of the 
 sea, spouting now and again fountains of water into 
 the air, and thousands of wild fowl weie resting on or 
 flitting over the waves. It is sunrise. We are steaming 
 along the coast of Gaspe land. An arc of light opal green, 
 flecked with streaks of gold, and resting on a base of 
 dee[) purple, the whole surrounded by crimson fleecy 
 clouds marks the appT-oach of day. On our left, a barren, 
 rocky coast, with tiny white cottages dotted up its moun- 
 tain slopes. The surface of the ocean scarce stirred by a 
 ri[)ple, all the vast expanse of water acting as a mirror 
 aiui flashing back the gorgeous ijeauty of the skies ; 
 vhilst sweeping over the sea, and now^and again laving 
 thei:- snowy breasts in the foam left in the steamer's 
 wake, are scores of sea mews. I remember this morning 
 far better than anything else that met my eyes durirg 
 oui' run Over the Atlantic. Early the next day we 
 were off Uuebec, and the first view of tliis city is 
 superb. It runs in the shape of an elongatod horse- 
 
bIioo aromul and frinp^iiif^ tlie hanks of thoSt. Lawrence 
 river. ll(K'ky holglitf*, frowning batteries, and strong 
 stout walls look down on the water h(»low from the one 
 side, wliilst, on tlio opposite spur, fir-flad hillf«, with 
 maple dressed in its autumnal tints poei)ing in here 
 and tliere, attraft the eye from the (piaint stone 
 churches, monasteries, and square houses, which, 
 apparently, have hoeii sown hroad(iast hy some unprac- 
 tised h'lshandman, for in one place they are grouped 
 thickly together ; in another, two or three seem lost in 
 a very network of roads. And now for the Custom 
 House. All who land at (iuehec must ho prepared for 
 a little inconvenience— perchance the loss of a little 
 temj)er. The hcst thing to do is to stand quite still and 
 let other people run and shout. You will get your 
 baggage tlirough the hands of the examiners quicker, 
 for they may have some sympathy with a few quiet 
 individuals, but shout ers are a imisancjo anywhere, and 
 imust be especially so to a busy man who has numbers 
 •of them all at it together. Again, there is no 
 reason for hurry; the train for Montreal will not 
 leave until the luggage is all through and on 
 board the train (as they say in Canada). Our 
 experience is singular. Eniigrjints — male and female, 
 Irish, Swedes, Scotch, and English — the broad 
 dialect of Somerset side by side witli the clear enuncia- 
 tion and prolonged o's and a's of Warwickshire; each 
 woman with children, some with babies, all with 
 bundles, asking for their goods, dancing after their 
 boxes, and, Avhen obtained, dragging them here and 
 there, and claijiouring in their mixture of tongues for 
 immediate assistance, but in vain. The rule and 
 practice is beautifully simple. From the hold pf the 
 ship come up the huge boxes. These are placed on 
 drays, driven by French Canadians, who dash off with 
 their respective loads to a huge shed, turn round the 
 vehicle, shoot out promiscuously on and over each other 
 :a medley load of various weight, character, and sizes, 
 
 m 
 
 fou 
 
 5 mm 
 
 and 
 
 ano 
 
 nt 
 
 you 
 
 covt 
 
 FCv)r 
 
 you. 
 
 bine 
 
 arou 
 
 treat 
 
 inE 
 
 Canji 
 
 |the ] 
 !and . 
 Ifortl 
 laid o 
 jment 
 I toba. 
 I kitch( 
 ;] — or 
 
 I shirts 
 
 f shouL 
 
 sports 
 
 crocks 
 
 butch 
 
 J goods 
 
 i opene 
 
 I shouk 
 
 I for tl: 
 
 I These 
 
 ^ fiuitab 
 
 I or an ji 
 
St. Ijawreiice 
 , and strong 
 from tlie one 
 [1 liillc, with 
 ping ill liere 
 (iuaint stone 
 uses, •which, 
 onie nnprac- 
 are gnniped 
 seem lost in 
 tlie Custom 
 prepared for 
 S3 of a little 
 quite still and 
 will get your 
 iners quicker, 
 . a few quiet 
 nywhere, and 
 has numbers 
 there is no 
 real will not 
 ugh and on 
 uiada). Our 
 e and female, 
 — the broad 
 alear enuncia- 
 ckshire; each 
 ies, all with 
 after their 
 em here and 
 f tongues for 
 le rule and 
 e hold pf the 
 ire placed on 
 dash off with 
 m round the 
 rer each other 
 ;er, and sizes, 
 
 j in one small avalanclio. Just as vou have succrH?.- fully 
 , fouglit 3'our wuy to one of your possessions, and 
 ; having, by tlio r( uioval of a largo l)un(llo (fading 
 ■\ nnicli like a fair division of Hro.'-ihovols, fcuther beds, 
 ; and gridirons) gained one of your trunks, up comes 
 anotlier wagon, wliips round, and shoots another cargo 
 at you, when, to escape Ixjing ilattened out like a sole, 
 you iloo from your position, wliilst your all but re- 
 covered treasure is buried beneath the penat(?s of some 
 score of emigrants. I'atienco is the only thing to aid 
 you. You may find it a relief to your feelings, com- 
 bined with a public exhil)ition of patriotism, to stand 
 around, and converse loudly on the ditference between tlie 
 treatment of your belongings by polite railway porters 
 in England, and tiie gross disrespect shown by the French 
 Canadians in (iuebec ; it may be a good way of reliev- 
 ■^ing your wrath, and will keep you out of the way until 
 iiihe luggage is sorted. Ihit, j'king apart, the Canadians 
 I and Americans treat all baggage as if it had been made 
 i for tlie express purpose of testing its strength tlirougli the 
 laid of Imge nmscular porters : there is niucli improve- 
 I ment needed here. A word as to what not to take to Mani- 
 Itoba. Do not take fire-iro'js, cooking utensils (espeeiailly 
 j kitcheners of gigantic size). Chairs, tables, revolvers 
 ; — or buy a gun if you do not possess one— if you have 
 I a gun t ke it ; but have with you warm clothes, flannel 
 I shirts, underclothing, boots (one pair of which, for men, 
 I should come up to the knee, like the field boots used by 
 sportsmen), blankets, pillow-cases, and such like, 
 crockery, spoons, forks, knives, and a good strong 
 butcher's knife (always useful), a tin opener for canned 
 J goods you will have to take on the prairies, and the best 
 i opener I ever saw cost 4|d. in iStratford. Women 
 I should take warm clothes for winter and print dresses 
 H'or the summer. Do not carry axes, hammers, &e. 
 I These things weigh, and you will l)uy tools far more 
 'Suitable to the country at AVinnipeg, Brandon, Eegina, 
 jor any town in the Far West. A gun you will want ; 
 
but if you have not one you can buy one on tlie spot 
 that will meet all your requirements and save (he ex- 
 pense of f;arrin.f:i-o. liomeniber, 1001b. is all tlie Aveiglit 
 you can take lliroup'h free, and extra cliarg-es are 
 terribly lioavy. Tlie poorer class of emigrants should, 
 before starting on the ears, buy some canned meats and 
 biscuits to sa^'e tlie expense of meals by the way. 
 There is always water on the cars, and you can get a 
 cup of hot tea at certain stations on the route. Another 
 thing — mind your luggage is all eliecked through to 
 Chicago — i.e., you will see a porter carrying a collec- 
 tion of brass numbers on straps. One of these, say No. 
 10, he will put on one piece of your luggage and give 
 you a brass stamp bearing a corresponding Xo JO. 
 You will not see the boxes until the train reaches 
 Chicago, Avhen you will again re-check it to Winnipeg. 
 Do this with all your belongings that you do not want 
 daily — such as brush and comb, change of linen, &o., 
 which place in a small handbag, and keep with you. 
 An examination of baggage takes place by the United 
 States Customs officers, either at Point Huron or St. 
 Yinceiit. Everybody must g<>t out then, and open 
 their boxes and show the contents. Failure in this 
 will cost a great delay, as the baggage wdll be left on 
 tlie ]ilatform. Now, having given you these few hints, 
 I will resume my journey. A shout of "All aboard for 
 Montreal" starts us from our various occupations, and 
 we ar<3 soon ensroi:o(>d on the long" Pullman cars, steara- 
 injr from (inebec to the (iueen Citv of the Dominion. 
 Our \v;;y is through forest and prairie. Now we fly by 
 a log hut, with the surrounding wheat stubble of last 
 harvest being turned agjiin, ready for the ero[) of next 
 season ; over wooden bridges, and across mighty rivers 
 that rush and d.'ince on rocky boulders ; by forest trees 
 clad in autumnal tints of every shade, from the 
 Virginian creeper to the blight, golden yellow of the 
 dwarf oak. Anon, we are at the base of mighty hills, 
 girded about >\'ith the pine and hemlock, and capped 
 
the sj)ofc 
 the ex- 
 Aveiglit 
 iXi'H are 
 sliould, 
 3uts and 
 le way. 
 get a 
 iiiotlier 
 )ugh to 
 . eolleo- 
 m.y No. 
 lid give 
 Xo JO. 
 reaches 
 imipeg. 
 ot want 
 en, &c., 
 ith you. 
 United 
 I or St. 
 d open 
 in this 
 left on 
 ^v hints, 
 )ard for 
 ns, and 
 steam- 
 minion. 
 3 fly hy 
 of last 
 )i Tioxt 
 ' rivxTS 
 5t trees 
 >m the 
 of the 
 r hills, 
 capped 
 
 with tlie pure, white snow. The clouds are rolling 
 round and round the summit, and the sun shines on 
 them and the mountain tops, and sprinkles the trees 
 with ri])lets of silver. After mid-day, we reach Rich- 
 mond, where lunch is provided. Then onward. The 
 scene has changed. We are now running through fields 
 well-oultivated, neat fences, and in each field wells of 
 water for the cattle. Fine shorthorns look lazily up at 
 ns as w(^ whiz by, and sheep rush away a space, and 
 turn ag;iin to look. But enough of panorama, or I 
 shall s(\irce reach Manitoba. At 6 p.m. we move 
 slowly through the tubular bridge over the St. 
 Lawi'ence (which a fellow-passenger informs us is two 
 miles in length), and in a fefw minutes are in Montreal. 
 This is a charming city, if I could wait to talk about it.- 
 Mount Koyal, a fine mountain, stands alone like a 
 sentinel on guard at the back, looking down upon the 
 city, whilst the mighty St. Lawrence circles around its 
 opposite boundary, bearing upon its bosom (a common 
 but convenient illustration) huge ships of many 
 nations. But we must onward. From Montreal we go 
 to Toronto, thence to Chicago — a most appropriate 
 dwelling for our Yankee cousins, full of bustle and 
 energy, combined with a fair proportion of dirt. Next 
 day away to St. Paul, by the Chicago, Milwaukee, and 
 St. Paul Railway. One more journey, from St. Paul 
 to St. Vincent, then over the Red River, and you are at 
 Emerson, the gateway city of Manitoba. And now, 65 
 miles more, and you will be landed in Winnipeg, the 
 capital of Manitoba, and the most wonderful city of 
 modem times. But what is the scenery that has met 
 the eye on our voyage (for in many things it resembles 
 a sea voyage more than a journey by land)? It takes us 
 through scenes that no words of mine can do justice 
 to. in some places the forest, thick with many 
 varieties of trees, blended in a mass of autumnal colour, 
 not in shreds, but in one great mass, standing out 
 against the liquid blue sky. Then we glide on to 
 
a. 
 
 11 
 
 the prairie. In a short timo there is no tree in sight ; 
 nothing for miles and miles hut grass, rolling in 
 billows exactly like a heaving sea. Again, we are run- 
 ning alongside a large lake. Miniature wares are 
 seething, and curling, and dashing on shore, whilst 
 thousands of ducks, widgeon, and wild geese whirl and 
 fly up, and settle. It is now nine at night. The con- 
 ductor comes into the car, " Gentlemen, Winnipeg is in 
 sight." A rush to the windows, we are dashing over 
 the Red Kiver, and, in a semi-circle before us, lies the 
 city. After a drive by the bright moon, we get a bed 
 for the night, and, in the morning, rise to look at 
 Winnipeg, the capital of the Lone Land. Ten years ago^ 
 a few log huts encircled For^ Grarry, which stood in the 
 midst of a large prairie comparatively unknown to the 
 world. To-day, a city of nearly 30,000 inhabitants, 
 with a world-wide reputation, rears its proud head 
 to the sky, and the value of its buildings for the 
 year 1882 has been assessed at 30,432,000 dollars, or 
 £6,086,400 sterling- This is an increase of 1,000 
 per cent, during the last three years. With the 
 exception of Chicago, it is doubtful if such an 
 ad'^ance can be shown by any other modem city. 
 The Red and Assineboine rivers here form a junc- 
 tion, and make the southern and eastern boimdaries 
 of the city. Close to the bridge over the Assineboine 
 is what remains of old Fort Garry, although the outer 
 walls, the bastions, and much of the building have 
 been removed to make room for the widening of 
 Main Street. 
 
 We will now take our bearings. Due west lie the 
 Rocky Mountains, to the east is Lake Superior, south 
 we have the United States and Canada, north the 
 prairie extends to Hudson's Bay. Main Street, the 
 principal artery, is from 130 to 135 feet in width, and 
 runs nearly parallel to the Red River. On each side 
 of the street are built, or are in process of erection, 
 elegant and stately buildings, for banks, stores, private 
 
d 
 
 ling lu 
 ire run- 
 ff*s are 
 
 whilst 
 lirl and 
 le con- 
 eg is in 
 g over 
 es the 
 
 a bed 
 ook at 
 rs ago^ 
 in the 
 to the 
 itants, 
 
 head 
 )r the 
 Ts, or 
 1,000 
 1 the 
 1 aa 
 
 citj. 
 juno- 
 'aries 
 3oine 
 )uter 
 hare 
 r of 
 
 J ; - 
 
 the 
 )uth 
 the 
 the 
 and 
 )ide 
 on, 
 ate- 
 
 dwellings, and puLlic institutions. The electric light 
 has superseded gas, and illuminates the entire length 
 of the broad avenue — tram-cars pass and re-pass each 
 other in quick succession — telephone communication is 
 the rule, and not the exception, for every office and 
 place of business. Four fine bridges span the two 
 livers at different points; building goes on with in- 
 credible rapidity. Even in my recollection, what has ' 
 been rolling prairie is now a street with wooden pave- 
 ment, gravelled roads, and rows of handsome dwelling 
 houses. i-ii! ' 
 
 The Anglican Church possesses Trinity Church and 
 Christ Church, in addition to the Cathedral, two miles 
 distant, which is situate on the banks of the lied Kiver,, ■ 
 near Kildonan, and adjoining the residence of that 
 much-loved prelate, Bishop Machray, the Bishop of 
 Rupert's Land. 
 
 The Roman Catholics are exceptionally strong in 
 numbers and in wealth ; their charity is great, and, in ' 
 addition to their cathedral, churches, and schools, they 
 throw open to all in need the hospital at St. Boniface,, 
 which is their owii institution. 
 
 The Presbj^erians are an exceedingly powerful body, 
 and besides their places of worship, have erected 
 Manitoba College, ""here those studying for their 
 ministry receive a superior education, to fit them for 
 the office they have undertaken. . .. 
 
 In addition to these, there are many Dissenting 
 bodies, each with their chapels, and all forming them- 
 selves into large congregations, 
 
 St. John's College, which embraces also St. John's 
 College for Boys and St. John's College Ladies' School,, 
 is under the supervision of and governed by a council,, 
 under statutes given by the Bishop of Rupert's Land. 
 In addition to these, there are large middle class and 
 other schools, sufficient to educate, and educate well,, 
 all the juveniles residing in or near Winnipeg, so that 
 no class is left without the means of obtaining an 
 
fi! 
 
 \ ■ I 
 
 10 
 
 tilmost frr>e and sound education for their little ones. 
 
 Having thus brietiy touched upon some of the 
 
 institutions of the city, T will now draw your attention 
 
 to the way in wliich emigrantts both male and female, 
 
 obtain employment herp, niid the average wages earned 
 
 by them. First the ladies: — The moat independent 
 
 females 1 hare met with are decidedly what are termed 
 
 in rural districts in England "washerwomen," or, ia 
 
 the more refined diction of Manitoba, "laundresses." 
 
 When I tell you (as a victim) that their charges lead 
 
 not into habits of parsimony, or more economical outlay 
 
 of coin entrusted to you, but rather verge on lavish 
 
 expenditr^-e upon such ordinary articles of domestic 
 
 comfort II i pocket-handkerchiefs and collars, you will 
 
 agree with me that tliis is indeed the " Paradise of the 
 
 Laundry." One dollar, or 4s. 2d., per dozen for each 
 
 firti( le of attire, including the before- mentioned hand- 
 
 kerchiefa and collars, must lead the operator from 
 
 soapsuds and mangle to the more losy prospect of 
 
 independence, and, indeed, I know of few better openings 
 
 for the industrious woman than that of starting an 
 
 English laundry. With respect to ordinary trades, 
 
 mechanics, artisans, labourers, &c., I quote from the 
 
 Winnipeg Daily Times of September 28th, 1882 : — 
 
 Bricklayers per day I'm Od 
 
 Stonecutters „ ' 16s 8d to fil Os lOd 
 
 PliiHterers ,, IGs 8d 
 
 MauhiniHtH ,, 16h Sd 
 
 Sawmill ineu ,, IGs 8d 
 
 Crtvpenteru ,, 15s Od to 16h Sd 
 
 Mouldern ,, 14s 7d 
 
 Painterrt.. ,, 128 6d to Us 8d 
 
 BliickHTnitha ,, Tis 6d 
 
 Tailors and Shoemakers ,, lOs 6d to 128 6d 
 
 Labourers iu the city ,, 10s 5d to Us 6d 
 
 Farm labourers, with board per month £8 6s 8d to £9 Gs Sd 
 
 Servants, females, with board ,,. £3 2m 6d to £5 3s Od ti 
 
 One thing detracts much from the beauty of Winni- 
 peg. The huge signboards that hang, projecting from 
 the stores to the street, are hideous in the extreme. A 
 

 1 
 
 ones. 
 
 of the 
 
 m 
 
 •-Hentiou 
 
 m 
 
 ^eriifile, , 
 
 
 ' efinied ' 
 
 B 
 
 pendent 
 
 B 
 
 termed 
 
 B 
 
 ' or, ia 
 
 B 
 
 resses." 
 
 B 
 
 es lead 
 
 B 
 
 outlay 
 
 ■ 
 
 lavish 
 
 ■ 
 
 >mestio 
 
 ■ 
 
 >u will 
 
 I 
 
 of the 
 
 I 
 
 r each 
 
 1 
 
 hand- 
 
 I 
 
 from 
 
 I 
 
 3Ct of 
 
 I 
 
 nings ' 
 
 I 
 
 ig an 
 
 I 
 
 •ades, 
 
 1 
 
 I the 
 
 1 
 
 4* 
 
 lOd 
 
 • ? fi hj 
 
 Id 
 d 
 
 • 
 
 n- 
 m 
 A 
 
 liuge Lottie, twentv feet In height, perched near the 
 chimneys, and overshadowing tlieni, draws attention to 
 the wine nierdiant. A laifro gilt hlnnderbnss denotes 
 the gnnmalcer; anollic]' calls liis shop the Gokhni liion 
 Store, and ontside is ;i. peat wooden pillar, with an 
 impossible animal perched upon the top, heavily gilt, 
 and apparently hungry, from the way he keejis his 
 mouth open. The fishmonger possesses a huge imi- 
 tation fish, projecting over your head as you pass, and 
 standing at right angles to the building — from its size 
 a shark, from its mild appearance and conformation, a 
 tr<^nt. The sooner these horrors are presented as 
 curi(.sities to a museum the better will be the ap- 
 pearance of Winnipeg. 
 
 Now, Avhat are tlie disadvantages of this country ? 
 "We must look on both sides of all questions. Let us 
 see how this stands the light of experience. To begin 
 with — the winter is beyond all quest'on most severe, 
 the tliermoraeter on exceptional occasions, and for a 
 fihort time, touching J33 deg below zero, but, during the 
 few weeks of the present winter I spent in Manitoba, 
 with the exception of a 48 hours' spell of Aery cold 
 weather, tlie winter was delightful — a blue sky, a 
 brilliant sun, a dry delicious atmosphere that exhilarates 
 you as you daiice more than walk along. All these 
 help to dispel the idea of zeros, and give a feeling of 
 perfect health and enjoyment. So much was this the 
 case, that I more than once felt an almost irresistible 
 inclination to offer a small boy 10 cents to retire into 
 a secluded position and join in a game of leap 
 frog. But you iiuifit be well clothed. Furs or the 
 warmest of cloth should constitute your outer gar- 
 ments, whilst a fur cap that will pull over your ears 
 is indispensable. All these can be bought in Winni- 
 peg. The winter lasts a little less than five months — 
 ithen a sudden thaw leads up to /et weather, which 
 renders the roads difficult to traverse. I'his thaw 
 •occurs late in March or early in April, and the spring 
 
12 
 
 that follows is nin«f «] 
 
 adveraaries. I do nnf l '^,™w»«ve but flw 
 
 »° you induces Mv^l^"'''^'''^«*heI• a week', fl ^''"' 
 
 -ised b, thPXK tt t *^ ™- o" -t 
 
 ef»x7eKa£|^t.s^3j- 
 
 up snow f' ^''* '"*« *^e nearest raw;f adjacent, or fail. 
 
 ^ ■ 
 
on with; 
 clurinsr 
 I- Tile 
 
 that 
 
 13 :\ 
 
 they fall, and, if they slumber, die. But this is an 
 exceptional storm — of no moment in the towns, only 
 dangerous when encountered on the prairie; easily 
 overcome with care, or in the company of old settlers. 
 Another drawback is the high rent charged in Winni- 
 peg. A small house for an artiean costs from £3 to 
 £4 per month, but you must })lace on the other side the 
 high wages obtained. Provisions are much dearer than 
 in Southern Canada at present, but the vast herds of 
 cattle now grazing on the prairie and the increased 
 facility of transport will soon relieve the pressure in 
 this respect. Indeed, beef is as cheap in Winnipeg to- 
 day as it is in Stratford-upon-Avon. 
 
 For amusement, there is cricket and lawn tennis in 
 summer ; in winter, skating, curling, snow-shoeing, and 
 shooting, in season. Talking of cricket, reminds me of 
 an anecdote in which one of our friends over the 
 border acted as umpire, which I will briefly give you. 
 A match was being played at Toronto some years back, 
 but, through some mishap, the umpire did not appear 
 in vime to begin his duties. Whilst debating the 
 •choice of another to fill the place, they were addressed 
 by a gaunt Yankee who was standing near nursing a 
 large sun umbrella, " What is your difficulty ? " " We 
 hav e no umpire." " I'll empire for you," quoth the 
 long one. " Do you know cricket ? " *' I'd blush to 
 murmur." So^ accordingly, hs wa^ cordially thanked 
 and taken to thf wicket. A clergyman, a Mr. 
 Phillips, did battlf for Toronto, and took the first over. 
 The American umpire was placidly smoking a 
 cigarette, apparently enjoying the view of the ad- 
 joining country, when a sharp '* How's that ? " an 
 appeal as to a catch at the wicket, aroused him. 
 " How's what ? " retorted umpire. " That catch," 
 replied wicket - keeper. " Was there a catch ? " 
 " Yeb." ** This must be a subject of investigation,'* 
 and, slowly proceeding to the other wicket, he opened 
 Jiis umbrella, and thus cross-examined the astonished 
 
14 
 
 
 ! 
 
 i) 
 
 club ? " 
 
 batsman. " Did you liit that ball with your 
 " Well, I don't know that I am bound to answer, but I 
 think I did." To wicket keeper, " Did you ketoh that 
 ball, short si op ? " " Yes." To batsman, *' Your club 
 hit that ball you say." " Yes." I Jecision, " Then, by 
 Mesopotamia, you're out." 
 
 I am reminded thsit the expense oi passage and land 
 travelling to Winni])eg has not yet been touched upon. 
 The reason is this, tliat in the books published by the 
 Government all suoh particulars are duly set foiili, but I 
 may briefly say this^ — Go by tlie Allan line of steamers 
 from Liverpool to Quebec. It is the most comfortable 
 and cheap travelling, 'i^heir assisted rates are as follows : 
 — " Agricultural labourers, i53 to Quebec ; artisans and 
 mechanics, £4; children between I arid 12 years, £2; 
 infants, 10s; all rail route to Winnipeg, £i 8s lid." 
 I cannot advise the Lake route at present, although it 
 is cheaper. The arrangements ure not so complete as 
 to make it advisable to put them to the test. Go in the 
 months of April, May, or June. The winter will be 
 over, the ground ready for seed ; work everywhere will 
 be flourishing and abundant, but you may find travelling 
 over the prairie wet. A word as to savings. One proof 
 as to the prosperity of a country is to be found in the 
 savings of the working classes, and in this respect you 
 will find Winnipeg to be in a most flourishing state. 
 From Mr. Drunimond's returns, the Receiver-General 
 of the City, I take these extracts : — Up to October, 
 1882, the deposits in the Post-ofiice Savings' Bank in 
 AVinnipeg reached the total of £122,106 whilst 
 the amount deposited from the 1st to the 8th of July 
 in that year reached a no less sum than .£48,352. This 
 money is almost exclusively the savings of the working 
 classes, and when we reflect that a proportion of the earn- 
 ings had been expended in the purchase of land in the 
 outskirts of the city for the purpose of erecting dwel- 
 lings for occupption, and that all the principal com- 
 mercial banks have a separate branch for savings, 
 
club ? " 
 
 I', but I 
 
 toh that 
 
 ;>'ir club 
 
 'iieu, by 
 
 id land 
 t upon. 
 l>y the 
 », but I 
 earners 
 srtable 
 >llows : 
 ns and 
 , .£2; 
 lid." 
 ugh it 
 ete as 
 in the 
 ill be 
 3 will 
 Blling 
 proof 
 1 the 
 ^you 
 3tate. 
 aeral 
 3ber, 
 k in 
 hilst 
 lulv 
 rhis 
 dug 
 im- 
 the 
 v^el- 
 )ni- 
 ^gs,. 
 
 I A6 
 
 besides tlie amounts sent by P.0.0. to tlio uives and 
 families at home, I tliiuk you -will agroe with me that 
 the labouring classes must bo doing- well. 
 
 As a further proof of their progress, I will read you 
 an extract from a letter dated j)ecemher 11th, 1882, 
 written by a Mr, John Hale, a lather, of 1 6, Stoke New- 
 
 . ington-road, London, published in the liondon papers. 
 He says — " I worked on several jobs where bricklayers 
 and plasterers had to do their own labouring, because 
 they could not get labourers. No man thinks of doing 
 anything for less than cSs. 4d. per day. Good boys can 
 gets a much ns 6s. Id. per day. I knew women that 
 were making their £4 Jis. 4d. per week at laundry • 
 
 : work. I should add that working men and their 
 families must expect a little rough life for a few 
 months, until they get properly settled down." And 
 
 ; he adds: — " My advice to anyone who thinks of going 
 to Ameiica at all is to go to Manitoba, as anyone 
 willing to work can get it there, and make money. 
 But I Avould not advise anyone to go there who drinks. 
 
 . All driiiks there cost 10 cents each, except milk, which 
 can be bought for od. per quart. A man who drinks 
 heavily is worse off there than here " A word as to 
 our imports and customs duties paid. Eight months' 
 
 • trade with England and the United States up to 
 
 ^ September 1st shows : — In 1882 5,230,378 dels., 
 against 1,820,941 dels, in 1881, showing an increase of 
 
 ' 3,419,437 dels., or about £683,887. But whilst trade 
 
 ■' with the States and Engla,nd has increased, it is abso- 
 
 ; lutely nothing to be compared with that done with ' 
 Lower Canada. For the fiscal year ending June, 1882, 
 this amounted to 10,575,770 dels., or about £2,1 15,154. 
 Now, as to employment for boys. Perhaps some of 
 the most industrious of our inhabitants in the cities are 
 
 ' the newspaper lads. Very different are they from the 
 ragged urchins who follow a similar profession in our 
 great centres. These small vendors of news are all well 
 clad, cleanly in appearance, and courteous in manner. 
 
16 
 
 i 
 
 V' 
 
 It is one of the sights of the capital to see these little 
 busyhodies in the winter, trotting about in their fur 
 oaps and warm coats, offering their papers for sale. 
 Tliey make it pay well, too. I have it on the authority 
 of one of the editors of a daily paper that most of these 
 little ones eani not less than 3s. 6d. to 58^ per day. 
 
 And now for agriculture. The land on each side of 
 the railway for a distance of 24 miles in breadth is 
 termed the railway belt, and as far as the Caiiadiau and 
 Pacific llailway line has been run west of Winnipeg 
 (about 500 miles), it is divided into townships. Each 
 township contains 36 square miles, and is divided into 
 36 separate square miles, which are termed sections, 
 and each section is divided into four equal portions of 
 160 acres each. The 36 sections are numbered con- 
 secutively from 1 to 36. The even numbered ones 
 belong to the Government for the pu: ;"Ose of homesteads 
 and pre-emptions for settlers, with the exception of two 
 which belong to the Hudson Bay Company, and can 
 be purchased at prices varying from 25s to 3os per acre, 
 without any settlement duties whatever. The odd 
 numbered ones are owned by the Central Pacific 
 Railway, except Nos. 11 and 29, which are reserved for 
 the purposes of education, and are sold by public auction, 
 and the proceeds applied solely for the support of educa- 
 tion. Any vacant quarter section of 160 acres can be 
 selected and entered upon by the emigrant on payment 
 of 50s, and a further condition of a residence of six 
 months in each year on the land for a term of three 
 years, the building of a house, and the cropping of 
 fifteen acres of land. 
 
 At the expiration of that period he then has the right 
 to purchase the adjoining 160 acres at the sum of 8s 4d 
 to 10s 6d per acre, and this is termed his pre-emption, 
 nominated and chosen by him at the time of his entry. 
 Prom the Central Pacific Railway the land can 
 be bought at 10s 6d per acre, payable, if wished, in six 
 mmual payments, with interesi at six per cent, per 
 
 ■ ■« i'mittmuii t-an i ifc* 1'?^^'-. 
 
hesG little 
 
 their fur 
 
 ' for sale. 
 
 authority 
 
 8t of these 
 
 day. 
 
 'h side of 
 )readt}i is 
 fidiau aud 
 ^Vinnipeg 
 >s. Each 
 ided into 
 
 sections, 
 ^rtioiis of 
 •red con- 
 red ones 
 tuesteads 
 n of two 
 and can 
 ler acre, 
 .'he odd 
 
 Pacific 
 rved for 
 auction, 
 
 educa- 
 
 can be 
 lyment 
 
 of six 
 three 
 
 ing of 
 
 right 
 
 8s 4d 
 ption, 
 entry, 
 can 
 in six 
 ;. per 
 
 annum, upon certain conditions of breaking and crop- 
 ping. A rebate of one half of the purchase money is 
 returned to the farmer upon all the hind placed under 
 rrop in the course of tlie five years. It is only right to 
 warn intending settlers flint there is very little land re- 
 maining for settlement Avithiu the railway belt near to 
 the large cities, or adjoining a railway station. If the 
 emigrant who is wishing to farm be not possessed of 
 capital sufficient to buy land, my advice to him would 
 be to get just as far west as he is compelled to go to 
 obtain good land in the railway belt, and, having 
 secured his property by entry at the nearest land-office, 
 to then obtain work at a farm in the locnlity for the 
 summer, where lie wiU pan; Troni £G to £7 per month 
 and his board. With tiiis money he will be able to 
 hire a team and plough and break part of his land 
 ready for the next year's eroy)ping. lint to those who 
 possess some capital I would say, buy an improved 
 faiTO and, if possible, near to a growing city. You 
 will obtain these, with a log-house, stables, granary, 
 wells sunk, part fenced, and, most important of all, 
 a number of jicres ]»l«Mip'h((l, ready to be cropped, 
 for from three to four pounds per acre, and the first 
 season's crop will, over and above the expenses, 
 pretty nearly pay for your land. The first twelve 
 months is the hard time for a settler on virgin soil. He 
 has his land to break, hardly any crop to look forward 
 to, hay to gather and cut, house and buildings to erect, 
 whereas, if the ploughing be ready to hand, house and 
 buildings up, and a golden harvest the first year, he is 
 on his way to indej)endence at a small outlay. My 
 reason for saying hardly any crop to look forward to is 
 this. It is true, that he can plant potatoes on the 
 broken prairie soil, and he can obtain a light crop of 
 oats ; but all the spare time he can give should be 
 devoted to breaking, so that the hot summer sun and 
 the prairie wind will rot the grass and make it ready 
 for back ploughing in the autumn. U'his, after a 
 
18 
 
 i:, 
 
 1 
 
 wintfir on it, comes out a fine tilth in the spring of 
 the following year, and ready for crop. Prior to the 
 purchase of any land or even gointj; to view it for the 
 purpose of settlement, go to the nearest Dominion land 
 office, and ask to see the surveyor's report upon this 
 particular section. You will be mot with all kindness, 
 and information most fully given to you there. Of 
 course, bad land, medium land, and good land, heavy 
 clay, deep black loam, sandy loam, and worthless sand 
 hills, are all to be found there, but the good far 
 exceeds the bad. A guide to all land is the classifica- 
 tion made by the surveyors by their division of the soil 
 into classe 1, 2, 3, 4, &c., according to quality, which 
 classification will be shown to anyone in the land office. 
 One word as to the pamphlets circulated by some of the 
 railway companies of the United States. Do not trust 
 them. One contained the followin.g^ paragraph : — " The 
 climate of Manitoba consists of seven months of Arctic 
 winter and five months of cold weather." This has 
 called forth a righteously indignant denial from Arch- 
 bishop Tache, avIio says, in a letter bearing date 25feh 
 October, 1882 : — " For my part, after 37 years of 
 experience, I find the climate more pleasant in 
 Manitoba than in any other country I have seen." 
 And, generally, a severe contradiction is given to the 
 whole of these false statements. The Americans have 
 a lot of poor land for sale, and they are apt to puff up 
 their own goods by depreciating those of their neigh- 
 bours. 
 
 A great bugbear to many is the Indian, and thia 
 fear has not been diminished by the railway and 
 newspaper reports of the United States. Amongst my 
 introductions in Winnipeg must be ranked very high 
 an interview with a lady known as the Queen of the 
 Swampis. This monarch is neither youthful nor 
 beautiful, but her regal attire is beyond dispute unique. 
 Her Majesty was robed in an old scarlet officer's coat 
 of ancient cut, given to her, I understand, from the 
 
If) 
 
 Govoniniont ston*^, iipoii tlio broast of vliicli woro 
 Buspeiiflt?'! nuiny Hihvr iiifMlals of tin* dini'Misionft 
 of an. ordinary It'ii-cii]). Her lioud-dn^ss was coiu- 
 poscd of soTiitt material likt^ very iiin'ieiit; and ill- 
 \180<1 la])ostry, whilst, abovti lu'r iiiocnssins, wore 
 tuokoil u|) tlio extremities of what ^[rs. (jruiidy 
 torniH unmentionables, or the tailor tr>usors. 
 As far as I could plean from a disjointrd and 
 brief conversation "witli this Swampieiui beauty, 
 she was possessed with an irresistible cravinpj 
 to gaze upon the lineaments of our most gracious 
 Majesty as engraved by the autliorities of the Mint 
 upon 2') or oO cent, pieces, which coinafj;e, wlien ex- 
 hibited by the possessor, were promptly ])0uclied by the 
 ladv. To those desiring an interview there is no diffi- 
 culty eitlier to see or speak to lier. On a subsequent 
 occasion Madame was going in for u^stheticism. l-)uring 
 her promenade of Main Street slie passed a well-known 
 music store, owned by one of the favourite " boys " of 
 the city, who called in the Queen and presented her 
 with a large red and black Japanese umbrella, and a 
 huge paper sunflower for a fan. To see the old lady in 
 her regimentals, with the umbrella open and the flower 
 held like a dagger in the other hand, passing through 
 the staring crowd with the placid look of stolid satisfac- 
 tion on her dusky face, would have exhilarated Oscar 
 Wilde and charmed his followers. Naught impresses 
 till Indian like finery. An old paiish beadle or a town 
 crier in the uniform of our forefathers would strike 
 more awe iuto his or her bosom than a view of the 
 Governor-General attended by the magnates of the 
 Dominion. The North American Indian of Canada is 
 a well-contented, peaceable individual, well treated by 
 the Government, safe fiom intrusion upon his own 
 territorial reserves, in receipt of treaty money yearly,, 
 presented with oxen, ploughs, harrows, and seed for his 
 land, with the vast ^"rairies, forests, and rivers free to him. 
 to hmit and to trap, and, above all, living under an 
 
20 
 
 ;i '1 
 
 admuiistrati(jii of justice wliioh gives liiiii an equality 
 witli, and protects ]iis rights as much, as those of his 
 white neighbour. There is but little fear, eitlier in the 
 present or the future, of any outbreak on liis part. The 
 worst characteristic of the Indian is his inattention to 
 the lavatory. Wasliing is not amongst liis virtues, and 
 Dickens's '"' unso<>ped of Ipswich " might be coadjutors 
 of the Cj'ee, the Blackfeet, tiie Cioux, the JUoods, and 
 the Swampis. But as it is well to ad<luce testimon}'' 
 upon this point, I will read to you tiie opinion of Max 
 Adeler, an ATiierican writer. 
 
 "Now some think that the red iiiau disphij's a want of good taste in 
 declining to bathe himself ; but I dou't. What is uiit ^ It is simply — 
 matter; — tlie same kind of matter that exists every where. Tlie earth 
 is made of dirt ; the things we eat are dirt, and they jjtvdw in tlie dirt ; 
 and when we die and are buried we return again to thiMJirtfrom which we 
 were mside. Science says that all dirt is clean. Tiie sa%';ige Indiau 
 knows this; hi.s original miud grasps tliis idea ; he has his ^>agle eye ou 
 science, aud he has no soap. Dirt is icarin. A layer one-sixteenth of au 
 inch tliivk on a man is said by Professor Huxley to ho as comforfcahle as 
 a fifty-dollar suit of clothes. Why, thou, should the cliild of the forest 
 undress himself ouce a week by scraping this off, and exjioso himself to 
 the rude blasts of winter':' He has too much sense. His head is too 
 level to let him take a square wash more than ouce in every twenty years, 
 aud even thtu he dou't rub hard. 
 
 Now, many ignorant people consider scalping iuhumau. I don't. I 
 look upon it as one of the most beneficent processes ever introduced for 
 the amelioration of the sufferings of the race. What is hair V It is an 
 excrescence. If it grows, it costs a man a great deal of money and 
 trouble to keep it cut. If it falls out, the man becomes bald and the 
 flies bother him. What does the Indian do in this einorgeucy. 
 With characteristic sagacity he lifts out the whole scalp aud 
 euds the annoyance and expense. Aud then look at the saving 
 from other sources. Professor Huxley estimates that 2,000 pounds 
 of the food that a man eats in a year go to nourish his hair. 
 Remove that hair aud you save that much food. If I had my way I 
 would have every baby scalped when it is vacciuateJ, as a measure of 
 political economy." 
 
 In the North-west men are made temperate by Act of 
 Parliament. It is a very grave olfence, and punishable 
 with a heavy fine, to introduce or carry with you any 
 stimulant whatever. This also applies to the piinciual 
 
21 
 
 portion of iVl!mitol)a, the exooption heiiig in flio oities 
 where mvniioipnl .government has been estuhlislipd, and 
 drunkenness can bo dealt with l)v th*^ arm of the civil 
 law. The reason of this law beino* so ricforouslv 
 enforc3il is to praveiit any fii'3- water findin;^ its way to 
 the Indian, for if lie imbibes tin fiery spirit, it >^enms 
 to diamine him into a veritable fiend. Medicinal 
 permits are granted to tra^'e]lers solely by the 
 Lieuten;int-(TOvernor of the Province, or of the North- 
 west territoi'ies. 
 
 I will give you an experience of a drive across the 
 prairie nn'lertaken in the spring of last year, which will 
 show you a few of the difficulties to be met witli. Six 
 of us in party, we started by train from AVinnipeg to 
 Grand Valley, which is on tlie opposite bank of the 
 Assineboine to Brandon, about Wl miles west of our 
 starting point. We reached here about five p.m., and 
 calmly awaited our two wagons and teams whi(^li had to 
 cross tlie ferry. AVe did wait — until six the next 
 morning, for the owner of the ferrv declined conveving 
 the horses over until that time. In vain were all our 
 powers of persuasion tried, dollar notes wore smiled at, 
 invective was useless, so we awaited his good pleasure. 
 A little before seven we were able to load up, and 
 started for llapid City. Our way lies over an undulat- 
 ing country, fairly settled v.-ith farmers. We cross ex- 
 temporised bridges laid over the mud in the coullees, 
 dash through a small creek or two : ducks aud tf^al by 
 hundreds swim in tlie little lakes, now on tlie riglithand 
 and now on the left, plovei's — pretty little fellows with 
 long golden legs and speckled jackets — pi'jiirie grouse, 
 wood part] idge, falcons, and bitterns, with many gor- 
 geous-plumed visitors to these regions, cross our j)ath 
 again and again. In about three hours we reach Kapid 
 City. Do not picture to yoursel f a second Winnipeg^ 
 Kapid (Jity, altlntugh a flourishing town, would bo 
 termed here a village. The town stands on the banks 
 of the little 8asketchewan river, and, as it is growing fast, 
 
If 
 
 i 1 
 
 22 
 
 the inhabitants think it only wants tho I'ailway to bloom 
 forth into a Cliicago. Plere we waited, took out the 
 horses, rested them, baited them (not forgetting our- 
 selves), then on towards the three forks. To reach this 
 point we liad to cross several mud holes, some covered 
 with sheets of water, others apparently dry, but with a 
 thin coating of treacherous mud. In one of the former 
 we were firmly fixed. In vain the driver shouted his 
 most persuasive shout to encourage the horses. They 
 pulled until exhausted, and then lay down. Out 
 jumped the Jehu, up to his waist in water and liquid 
 inud, unfastened the traces, took the horses out, and led 
 them asliore, and the whole company had to plunge in, 
 put tlieir shoulders to the wheels, and at length out 
 rolled wagon No. 1 ; but in the meantime wagon No. 2 
 had charged the mud, and likewise was stuck fast, so 
 we had the delight of repeating the performance with 
 as much celerity and despatch as we could muster. The 
 greater portion of tlie land from Rapid City to the 
 Three Forks is good, although some alkali exists. 
 This is ensily recognisable, as the deposits of alkali lie 
 white and glistening on the surface of the soil, and 
 sliould always be avoided as land unfit to settle on. 
 Abciit 4 p.m. we reached the Three Forks, which is a 
 •solitary house standing on the prairie, from which 
 point tliree trails strike out in various directions. Up 
 to this time we had made about fifty miles. Another 
 rest of two hours. Then we resume our journey. The 
 scene improves. Bluffs of timber crown the little 
 enimences, large lakes Hash in the setting sun, myriads 
 of gulls fioat in the air around us. These birds are 
 quite safe from the farmers, perfectly harmless to the 
 •crops, for they will not touch grain, yet they devour 
 the grassliopper and all insects injuiious to tho growth 
 ■of the plant, so it is not to be Avondered at that the gull 
 should bo regarded as a friend to be encouraged. 
 About six we pass a beautiful lake called Salt Lake 
 irom its briny water. On the far side of this lake. 
 
23 
 
 lo bloom 
 
 I out the 
 g our- 
 cli this 
 covered 
 with a 
 former 
 ted his 
 They 
 Out 
 liquid 
 and led 
 nige in, 
 ?th out 
 ti No. 2 
 fast, so 
 e with 
 :•. The 
 ■ to the 
 exists, 
 iali lie 
 il, and 
 tie on. 
 eh is a 
 which 
 I. Up 
 nother 
 The 
 little 
 yriads 
 Is are 
 the 
 evour 
 rowth 
 eguU 
 aged. 
 Luke 
 lake, 
 
 from the trail we are taking, stands a long granite cliff, 
 about two or three miles in length. Green moss is 
 trailing down its perpendicular sides Lintii it reaches 
 the tiny waves of the lake, whilst tlie summit, fiat as a 
 billiard table, is one white carpet of strawberries in 
 bloom. On the surface of tlie lake, which is quivering 
 and dancing in the fading light, rest or roam, accord- 
 ing to their desire, thousands of Avaterfowl — coot, loon, 
 teul, Avild duck, and diver. This is a sweet spot, but 
 succeeding scenes, other lakes, rolling prairie, sparkling 
 creeks, quickly follow as we drive onward. It was 
 ten at night when our horses plunged into the shallows 
 of Shoal Lake —clear, pellucid water, rolling up to a 
 beach of tiny stones. Here we find a log hut, where 
 we rest for five hours, and then our party and wagon 
 start on for Birtle, our destiiuition. The other team is 
 too much played out to proceed for oome hours, so we 
 lead the van. The half moon has just risen, and gives 
 some light as we move onward, i'rogs in full song nil 
 the air with their strange chorus. INight or mosquito 
 hawks shriek as they dash and circle after their prey. 
 Save this, the night is still. Deceived by the moon- 
 light, we lose our track, and are bmied up to the axles 
 in an alkaline mud pit. This is a more serious stoppage. 
 Horses have to be taken out, all portmanteaus, food, 
 and rugs have to be taken to the bank, the seats to be 
 unscrewed and removed, and then, for more than an 
 hour, we try, and try in vain to move the vehicle. As 
 a last resort we procui-e stakes of wood, and whilst three 
 lift at the wheels, the others place first one piece and 
 then another under the rim, and so inch by inch, first 
 at one wheel then at the other, groping in the mud 
 one minute, shoulders to the wheel another, and lifting 
 another, we gradually but slowly extricate our wagon. 
 With seats screwed on again, all re-loaded, we proceed. 
 Soon daylight is approacliing. One minute the moon 
 shines triumphant in the heaven, the next phe seems 
 but a piece of pale blue paper with all her glory gone, 
 
'■■ 
 
 ii; 
 
 24 
 
 for the sun has rifen with a hound, and tlirows a warm 
 crimson glow over prairie and lake, and. imparts a sense of 
 wannth and companionship to us. We are nearing Birtle. 
 This is Surrey surely-r-liill and dale, woods and river, 
 farm-houses peeping out from their resting places, 
 wheat and. oats growing luxuriously. But my com- 
 panion is sleeping. I hold him on to his perch, and 
 then find myself violently bowing and nodding, and he 
 is liolding me on. A cry from the driver, " Birtle." 
 We rub our eyes, and gaze about as if such a thing as 
 sleep were unknown in our experience. Pictuie to your- 
 selves a Malvern doubled, hills on each side. In the 
 valley, a sweet little river dancing round and over rocks, 
 and twisting here and. there until it is lost to 
 sight in the green foliage on either side. The hills 
 broken into gullies, whose sides are wooded tier 
 upon tier to tlie sky line. Over the Bird Tail Creek or 
 river a wooden bridge, and a small village, with its 
 church and school, its stores and houses. This will 
 give you some sort of an idea of my first bird's eye 
 view of Birtle. Time will not allow me to continue 
 the record of our trip to Fort EUice the following day ;. 
 but I will call your attention to the fact that we reached 
 Birtle, ninety-four miles from Grand Valle}^, at five 
 in the morning, and without unduly distressing our 
 horses. The neighbourhood of Birtle is exceedingly 
 fertile and well farmed ; there is quite a large agri- 
 cultural community there, and most of them English. 
 I was told that at the last ball given in the winter 
 there were more than seventy ladies present, so you see 
 it cjmnot be uncivilised. We had. to drive ninety-four 
 miles ; now Elk Head, a station on the Central 
 Pacific Bailway, is only eighteen miles distant, and the 
 Portage and Westbourne railway ai'e pushing forward 
 their line, which will be close to Birtle. 
 
 I fear I have failed to convey to your minds one half 
 of the natural beauties of Manitoba. First I must 
 give precedence to the Aurora Borealis. 'This is a 
 
25 
 
 y 
 
 ^HTjse of 
 • Birtle. 
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 is a^ 
 
 common but nevertheless ever changing scene of beauty. 
 Sometimes the whole world seems ablaze with its light. 
 Let me try and sketch to you such a scene. A half 
 circle, occupying one-fourth of the visible heavens, 
 apparently made of white lumnious lace, fring'^d with 
 pinnacles, each space tipped with a quive. ^' pink 
 edging, whilst overhanging all is a second arc of the 
 bluish green peculiar to the Polar E-egion — the whole 
 is in rapid movement. One minute the bow rises 
 majestically, and expands only to sink gracefully down 
 the next. Again it rises higher and higher. Now the 
 upper shafts of opal contract and touch the lower bow. 
 Picture thousands of white peaks, tipped witli exquisite 
 colour, all with the same slow grace saluting each 
 other. Bight overhead, away from the arc, is a canopy 
 of shifting light and colour, trembling and full of stars. 
 Words are inadequate to paint such loveliness. I fear 
 I have failed to convey to your minds one half of the 
 natural beauties ol' Manitoba. The prairie clad in 
 exquisite flowers, varying from the lavender crocus of 
 spring to the tiger lily, the blush red rose, the purple 
 and white prairie clover, the silver willow, the wild pea 
 blossom, the *tiny cactus, with its pink star rising in the 
 centre, the pretty primula, a rich, red, velvety flower 
 with an orange cross, whose name I know not — all 
 these and many more, waving and nodding to the 
 breeze and intermixed with the feather grass, the 
 Seneca, the reed, and the crested sedge, only partially con- 
 cealing in some parts, in others failing to hide the red 
 burnished glow of acre after acre of strawberries, whose 
 life blood we press out with our wheels as we drive 
 onward. Again, the plum, most delicious of all wild 
 fruit, the grape, the cherry, the raspberry, black and 
 red, the black gooseberry, high and low bush cranberry, 
 blue bear and buffalo berry, and the hazel nut — these, 
 ■with myriads of mushrooms in spring and fall constitute 
 
 * Macoun. 
 
26 
 
 •our wild fruit, and atld to the beauty of this great lone land. 
 To the sportsman there is a paradise. In the big game 
 we have the moose, the waphiti or big elk, the jump- 
 ing deer, buffalo, musk ox, mountain sheep, and goat, 
 the grizzly bear, the black and the cinnamon, lynx, the 
 grey wood wolf, and the small prairie wolf, the 
 wolverine, hare, and other smaller animals. In winged 
 game we have wild swans, geese, grouse, spruce pai-tridge, 
 sage cock, sandhill crane (the best game bird I have yet 
 eaten), five kinds of plover (all good on toast), snipe, 
 twenty-two species of duck, and, in all, " Macoun " 
 gives forty kinds of game birds in this province. No 
 license is required. You are not warned off any shoot- 
 ing ground. A few miles from the cities you can find 
 big and feathered game, and kill it in season. The 
 grizzly bear is only found near the Rockies, but the 
 black and cinnamon are common, the former being 
 ■ comparatively quiet, and the latter seldom interferes 
 with the traveller unless he commences hostilities. 
 Game you can shoot in any quantity in season, and the 
 product of the hunt helps to save the butcher's bill, 
 besides giving grand sport. It is seldom that one hears 
 a goose story. I will tell you a wild goose tale, as I 
 heard it. An officer of the Hudson's Bay Company, 
 Mr. Prudem, now living but a few miles from Winnipeg, 
 was on the look-out to shoot wild geese as the flocks 
 were passing south from their unknown breeding 
 grounds. He had his chance, fired, and dropped a 
 bird ; she turned out to be only wounded, so her captor 
 treated her with care and nursed her. In a few weeks 
 Mrs. Goose was able to waddle around and take obser- 
 vation. So tame did she become that every Sunday, 
 when her owner went to church, the bird attended him 
 to the door, partly nmning and partly flying. But, 
 spring had come, and with its genial warmth brought 
 the flocks of wild fowl flying north to their nesting 
 places, and one morning the goose lifted herself up 
 on her wings, and joined a passing band of 
 
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27 
 
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 her kind. The for some time owner had forgotten 
 his patient by the autumn, and already flocks of geese 
 had passed South again, fleeing from the Arctic cold, 
 when one day watcliiug from his door he saw a bird 
 drop from her score of mates, and circling round, alight 
 almost at his feet, nni up to him with outstretched neck, 
 many gooseiau songs of joy, much shaking and chatter- 
 ing of wings. Again did the bird go to church, and 
 stopped in her old resting place for the winter. Spring 
 saw her join once more a passing crowd of geese. 
 Autuniu ])elield her return, but not alone. Madame 
 had brought with her a young* goose, wlio was intro- 
 duced with irmch fuss and ceremony to her master, but 
 the juvenile did not take to the new life, and in a few 
 hours flew away to join in the Southern flight. The 
 old bird took to its winter habits, and after passing her 
 time as in preceding years, once more in springtime 
 opened wide her pinions and fled away with a migratory 
 band. She never returned. This anecdote can be 
 fully authenticated. 
 
 Query . — Have birds memories ? 
 
 Time has not allowed me to speak of the new 
 discoveries. I will briefly say that four gold mining 
 companies are steadily at work on Lake of the 
 Woods, 135 miles east of Winnipeg, and the 
 assays of the quartz are rich in the extreme, 
 richer, in fact, than any existing mine. Coal is found, 
 and now being worked on the Souris and Saskatche- 
 wan rivers, whilst hematite iron ore, yielding 75 
 per cent, of pure iron, lies on the shore of Lake 
 Winnipeg. This is additional proof, if needed, of the 
 future greatness of this country. It is no part of my duty 
 here to-night to endeavour to catch emigrants. I 
 simply give you my own views, and what has struck 
 me in the fifteen months I have spent in this part of 
 the Dominion of her Majesty. But if any wish to join 
 and aid in the future of Manitoba, there is a hearty 
 welcome to all who possess but one quality, and that 
 
28 
 
 is indnstr}'. The loafer is not required. Brains or 
 hands, or both, must be used, and then no man or 
 woman in the posses qon of youth and strength need 
 fear the result. Some hard experience may conio to the 
 new settler, but that will be tempered to 3''ou by the 
 unfailing kindness of our Canadian brethren. In 
 truth, their hospitality is without bound. Poverty you 
 need not fear. During the time I have spenf there I 
 have not yet been accosted by a beggar, and mendicity 
 is unknown. Strange as it may seem, incredible as it 
 appears, that benighted land possesses not a workhouse, 
 and no collector of poor's rates knocks at a single door. 
 Wide open are spread the arms of invitation to all 
 workers. Thousands upon thousands more can join in 
 the wealth nature has so lavishly bestowed. If times 
 are hard with you here, there is well-paid labour for 
 every busy hand and working brain. Above your 
 heads still will float the Union Jack of England, in 
 your walks abroad, in your very labour, in your daily 
 life, the same old language will meet your ear. English 
 hands will grasp yours, and English hearts be more 
 ready there, perhaps, than here to show their sympathy 
 in your disc^ppointment. 
 
 Permit me, in conclusion, to quote to you an extract 
 from Lord Dufferin's speech when Governor- Greneral 
 in 1877 :— 
 
 "In a word, apart, secluded from all extraueous influences, nestling at 
 the feet of her majestic mo^^her, Canada dreams her dream, and forebodes 
 her destiny — a dream of ever broadening harvests, multiplying towns and 
 villages, and expanding pastures ; of page after page of history added 
 as her contribution to the annals of the Mother Country, and to the 
 glories of the British race; of a perpetu.ition for all time upon this 
 continent of that temperate and well-balanced system of government 
 which combines in one mighty whole, as the eternal possession of all 
 Englishmen, the brilliant history and the traditions of the past, wltkthe 
 freest and most untrummelled liberty of action in the f utuxeJ' 
 
STRATFOEB-UPON-AVON 
 PBINTED BY Q. BOYDEN, "HEEALD" OFFICE, 
 HIGH STIIKKT. .