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This canal i>asses through United States Territory, but, as pointed out on p. 48, tlu' Canadians are making a canal of their own. This will be another and extremely important link in that system of unrivalled waterways and canals which exists in tho Dominion. On p. 321 of the ' History of the Dominion ' 1 have given a list of tho canals of the Dominion with their mileage, gathered from 'Canada: a Statistical Abstract and Record,' 1887. In addition to authorities already cited I havo quoted, for the purpose of general and descriptive accounts, from Sir W. Butha-'s 'Wild North Land ' and ' The Great Lone Land ; ' from ' Pictia-esque Canada,' edited by the Very Koverend G. M. Grant, Principal of Queen's University, Kingston, Ontario; from 'Ilocholaga,' by Sir F. Head; from 'Manitoba, its Growth and Present Condition,' by Pro- fessor Bryce ; and from 'Canadian Pictures,' l^y the Man^uis of Lome. With regard to the latter authority I havo ventured to alter, in a (quotation on p. 48, xu Preface. the words Mf the ships bo of 1400 tons' to *a ship of small tonnage,' some of the canals having only nine and not fourteen feet of "water over the sills of the locks. I have also quoted occasionally from Lord Dufterin's speeches, and from the pages of Parkman, the well- known historian of Canada. For kind supervision and invalual)lo help I am indebted to my revisers and to Mr. J. S. O'llalloran, the Secretary of the Eoyal Colonial Institute. For special information on the subject of Newfoundland I have to express my thanks to Sir Robert Pinsent, and for the latest statistical and other infor- mation on the Provinces of the Dominion, I am largely indebted to the gentlemen of the High Commissioner's Office in London. With regard to maps and geographical nomenclature, it will be seen that I have not found space on the maps for every place mentioned in the text, but a sufficient number, perhaps, have been given for the purposes of guidance and illustration. WILLIAM GRESWELL. DODINOTON, Jam 17, 1890. ill n CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. PAGES The Geography of the Canadian Dominion . . . 1-2S CHAPTER II. The Province of Quebec 2S-41 CHAPTER III. The Province of Ontario 42-51 CHAPTER IV. The Province of Nova Scotia o^-o^ CHAPTER V. The Provinces of New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island 58-66 CHAPTER VI. The Province of Manitoba 67-77, CHAPTER VII. The North-West Territories *"3-S[ CHAPTER VIII. The Province of British Columbia 81-93 CHAPTER IX. The Island of Newfoundland 93-102 CHAPTER X. Industries, Wealth, and Social Progress . . 102-123 Appendices 1 26-141 General Index 143-154 I I 'I i I .1 ^^ ^VS iL.'/ifr^f^^.^ ) LIST OF MAPS. I. General Map, showing tlio boundaries of the Provinces, with Railways .... II, Historical Map, showing Ancient Settlements III. Physical Map, showing cultivable zone of grains and grasses, sago country, region of droughts, summer and winter isotlierms, cold and warm ocean currents, the prairie steppes IV. The Province of Que])ec V. The Province of Ontario VI. The Provinces of Nova Scotia, New Bnniswick, and Prince Edward Island .... VII. The Province of Manitol)a, with southern portion of the North-West Territories . VIII. The Province of British Columbia . IX. The Island of Newfoundland .... X. The Townships of the North-West . To face PAGB I 7 17 29 43 51 67 81 93 1X2 i T(^ Wicv pa^;e 1 OA-ti'Vti f^l/l-^T.Vl't Lo ngitu de West 90 froriL Greenwich. {'irin;i f'ni. ••r.vt'ry /'r.'.s\ . T(i Hii t' t'.iyjo 1 ii Fr. ftt»r/j CHAPTER I. R. I The Geography of the Canadian Dominion. (i) After its first discovery by Cabot (1497) the continent of North America remained for many years untenanted by genuine colonists and settlors. Time alone could prove its complete adaptability to the nations of Northern Europe, and convince French, English, Germans, and Scandinavians, that here along the same lines of latitude was the natural home for the develop- ment of their energies. In the first place, the very nature of the climate and its sea-coast was suited especially to the life of a seafaring folk. The great island of Newfound- land, the bulwark of the St. Lawrence Gulf, is indented with numerous bays and inlets, and boasts of a larger coast-line for its size than any other important island in the world. Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and Prince Edward Island have peculiar attractions for fishermen and adventurers. To explore them thoroughly from bay to bay, from fiord to fiord, in the ardour of first dis- coverers, must have been a fascinating occupation. And these maritime provinces lay at the threshold of undis- covered worlds beyond. The St. Lawrence was a grand natural highway, which took the traveller into the very heart of a country abounding in natural wealth. There was nothing in the known world to equal the marvellous chain of the great lakes. To those who had been ac- customed to look with wonder and surprise upon the small inland lakes of Great Britain, nestling amongst picturesque hills, how noble these great inland seas, fringed with forest wealth to their edges, must have i » 2 The Geography of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch. appeared ! As lake beyond lake was discovered, and this splendid natural highway was opened up, the heart of the colonist and trader rejoiced. In dry countries like South Africa and Australia the main want is water and means of transport : and places only a few miles distant from one another are effectually cut off and isolated by a tract of country where it is difficult, nay, impossible, to con- struct a road. Before the days of railways, the colonists in South Africa and Australia were debarred from all the innumerable benefits which come from easy and quick communication. The merchant needs speedy dis- tribution for his produce, the farmer an easy road to his market, and the politician, who guides the affairs of the colony, needs to be as quickly as possible in touch with all sections of the community. (2) In Canada the great lakes give all classes the means of communicating with one another, and out of this natural advantage has arisen the extraordinary prosperity of the Dominion. To gain an idea of the vastness of the Lake Districts of Canada, we need simply refer to the map and see how wide is the area they occupy. Lake Superior is the largest sheet of fresh water in the world, being 420 miles from east to west, with an average breadth of 80 miles. The St. Lawrence and the Cana- dian lakes are estimated to hold 12,000 cubic miles of water, or more than half the fresh water on the globe. The shores of the Dominion are not mere barren beaches such as border the sea, but hundreds of miles of green fir-clad banks along which vast and solemn pine-forests grow, and the lumberer's axe finds ready and profitable spoil. In spite of the rigour of the climate, the country proved to be extremely healthy for Europeans, and here more than elsewhere in the New World the stock has thriven. For races dwelling in the north of Europe, Canada is a natural habitat, especially for the Bretons J I.] The 2'>voccs8 of Settlement. 5 ami Scots. Stoam has como as a powerful auxiliaiy, and has made the most of the advantages already at hand. Without losing any of its native fibre and hardihood, as it must do in tropical colonies, the British stock has lived and i)rospered, and heaped up wealth. There ia a greater e<{uality of wealth amongst all classes, and a more evenly distri))uted population in the Dominion, than in Australasia or South Africa. The lakes and rivers are partly the cause of this. They have encouraged dispersion by the facilities of travel and transport. Especially during summer their oi)en waters have pro- vided a cheap and easy transit. In the colonies of the South Pacific we hear of congested towns and crowded thoroughfares, and all the ills that, along with many advantages, centralisation ever brings in its train. Many railways exist there, and their mileage is constantly being increased ; still they are narrow and expensive arteries, compared generally with the placid lake and broad river as a medium. There is, therefore, no such town as Melbourne or Sydney in the Dominion. (3) The industries of a new country also determine the character of the population. The great mining centres of Australia and South Africa localise trade, and cause a divergence of population towards themselves. In Canada the occupations of agriculture, of lumbering and of fishing, which are the chief ones, spread the people abroad over many country towns and villages. The purely rural population of Canada is extremely numerous, and con- stitutes a most healthy and substantial class. It is the ' mascula proles docta ligonibus ' who so often have proved the mainstay of a country. The seamen and fishermen of Newfoundland, New Brunswick, and Nova Scotia are the hardiest perhaps in the world, and re- produce the stern and wholesome qualities of Scandi- navian ancestors. B 2 4 The Geography of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch. (4) As useful waterways in connection with the St. Lawrence we must consider the Ottawa, St. Maurice, Saguenay on the left, and Eichelieu, St. Francis, Chau- diere on the right hank. To the north lie the vast inland waters of Hudson's Bay stretching 600 miles from east to west, and 1 300 miles from north to south, and providing a watenv.ay for five months of the year to the very heart of the continent. Port Nelson, the trade entrepot on the west shores, is only 2941 miles distant ^om Liverpool, being 100 miles nearer than New York \ Thence by river, lake, and portage, for hun- dreds of miles the way lay open to the utmost bounds of ^Le Great West. For 200 years fur-traders have ex- plored the continent and planted their 7orts. From Hud- son's Bay Franklin undertook his land journey to the Polar Seas, and from Hudson's Bay the Selkirk colonists started to found the Prairie Province of Manitoba. (5) From the mouth of the St. Lawrence, and from Hudson's Bay, explorers could press westward to solve the geographical problems of a new continent, till beyond the sources of this great river and the latitude of Lake Superior, they found the ground rise steppe above steppe'^, and so reached the huge barrier of 'the Pocky Mountains.' This mountain chain runs down the whole continent for 3000 miles from north to south. Once this range and its subsidiary elevations were passed, the European found a more genial land and milder hill- sides abutting on the great Pacific, and fjicing the eastern world with its countless nations and peoples. Here, too, was found an island — Vancouver — guarding the entrance to this northern land on one coast, just as Newfoundland guards it sentinel-like at the entrance to the St. Lawrence on the other. On these two islands floats the British * SoG p. 317 of Haydon and Solwyn's ' North America.' ^ Appendix I. 4 [Ch. I.] The beginnings of ' Canada.' from flag, and at either erxd, at Halifax and Esquimault, is stationed a squadron of British men-o'-war, keeping watch over the ocean patlis, and over that vast limb of England s empire, which has grown so mighty since the day when the sailors first crept cautiously into the St. Lawrence, hoping, perchance, to find that North-West Passage which had filled the imagination of Columbus when he dreamt of Cipango and Prester John. Here in truth is the true North-West Passage, not a permanent sea-way, but a quick communication by shi}/ and rail. (6) The term Canada is said to have been an Indian word, Kamatha, meaning a collection of huts, which the French discoverers applied to the country around the St. Lawrence. At the present time it is used somewhat loosely to express the whole of the Canadian Dominion, but Canada Proper was originally the geographical expression for the watershed of the St. Lawrence from its mouth to the Lake of the Woods, a distance, roughly speaking, of 1 300 miles from east to west. It was not so used by Cartier in io34» being limited more precisely by him to the central part of the territory between Montreal and Anticosti '. In the French annals of coloni- sation it may be regarded as the northern part of New France, distinguishable on the east from the Island of Newfoundland and Nouvelle Bretagne or Labrador and the regions included under the term Acadia, on the south from French Florida and Louisiana. According to Sir W. Logan's report, dated May 1863, Canada Proper, njeaning the basin of the St. Lawrence, has an area of ."530,000 square miles, being nearly five times as largo as Great Britain. (7) In the early history of North America charters and grants given by both French and English kings to companies and individuals were constantly altering and ' Kingsforcl, vol. i. p. 3. TT 6 The Geography of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch. upsetting previous boundary lines and landmarks. In the first instance there was a grand simplicity al)out Pope Alexander's bull (May 1493), the year succeeding Columbus' discovery of the Bahamas, in which he drew an imaginary line from the North to the South Pole, a hundred leagues west of the Azores, assigning to Spain all that lay to the west of that boundary, while all to the east of it was confined to Portugal. This was virtually handing over to Spain by papal sanction the whole of North and South America, excepting that small part of the latter which lies, roughly speaking, to the east of the mouths of the Amazon, and is contained in the Eepublic of Brazil. This imaginary geographical definition was not accepted by other nations. Francis I of France exclaimed, ' What ! shall the kings of Spain and Portugal divide all America between them, without suffering me to take a share as their brother ? I would fain see the article in Adam's will that bequeaths this vast inheritance to them.' So in 1524 Verrazano, com- missioned by the king, conducted a series of explorations along the sea-board from Cape Fear to the Bay of New York and Narragansetts, and called the country Nctv France. In 1534 Cartier set up on the Peninsula of Gaspe both the cross and the arms of his country claiming the valley of the St. Lawrence, a river so named by him on August lo, 1535, the martyr's anni- versary. (8) Further north it must be remembered that Cabot, by his discovery of Labrador and Bacalaos (Newfound- land, 1497), had given England a prior claim to the continent of North America by right of discovery, although it was not till 1583 that Sir Humphrey Gilbert unfolded the flag of England on the Island of New- foundland and exacted homage from the fishing fleet. The Spaniards and Portuguese, it will be seen, left this I. [Ch. cs. In al)out leeding e drew Pole, a Spain B all to lis was ion the iig that king, to )ntained raphical ''rancis I of Spain without I would ^ths this no, com- lorations y of New itry New insula of . country river so yr's anni- lat Cabot, fewfound- m to the discovery, ey Gilbert 1 of New- [ling lleet. 1, left this i III'!: I HISTORICAL MAP SHO^VING AXCIENT SETTLEMENTS. To face page 7. N° U W of Greenwich ■ 80 I'ar/bfd. IMyersi^ Press "^Sjl MENTS. 70 ^6 ^i^H 45 lilba/S' ' ■Bartfitrd. 40, °'^A '"^"^ eo^ ,jjle SaunA tctaJ \.FloriAa f^ 35 30 4 M TAe 0?(Z Charters. jxart of North America almost entirely to France and England. Cortereal, the Portuguese sailor, reached in 1 50 1 the Gulf of the St. Lawrence and explored the North American coasts up to 50° N. He is said to have freighted his vessels with more than fifty Indians whom he sold as slaves. As the historian Bancroft remarks, Labrador (from Laboratores or slaves transferred from the territory south of the St. Lawrence to a more northern coast) is a memorial of his voyage and the only per- manent trace of Portuguese adventure within the limits of the North American continent, just as Portugal Cove is said to have been the only sign of their fishing expe- ditions in the neighbouring island of Newfoundland \ (9) In 1540 Francis de la Koque, Lord of RobeiTal, obtained from the French king a commission as Lord of the unknown Norumbega (comprising the littoral and mainland of New Brunswick) and Viceroy, with full regal authority over the immense territories and islands which lie near the Gulf and along the river of St. Law- rence. This clashed with the Cabots' Charters, given them by Henry VII and Henry VIII, and assigning them all lands that might be discovered with sole right to trade. In June 1578 a Royal Charter was given to Gilbert with ' licence to discover . . . such remote and barbarous lands not actually possessed of any Christian Prince or People, as to him, his heirs and assigns . . . shall seem good, and the same to have, hold and occupy and enjoy to him, his heirs and assigns for ever, with all commodities, jurisdic- tions and royalties both by sea and land ; ' also, according to the Charter of March 1584, Walter Raleigh obtained even greater concessions by sea and land. He had a monopoly of all commodities, jurisdictions, royalties and privileges by sea and land, and power to repel all intruders * According to some authorities Labrador ia so named after La Bradoro, a Spanish captain. 7S J H ]' \ li! ! !.^ll 8 The Geography of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch. that came within 200 leagues of his settlement or dwell- ings. In July 1584 his captains, Amadas and Barlowe, took possession of Roanoke, an island of fifteen or sixteen miles in length, and a beginning of colonisation was made. Virginia meant all the country between the French dominion of Canada and the Spanish dominion of Flo- rida. Here was the beginning of the power that wedged itself firmly between the northern and southern parts of New France and held the seaports and littoral of the east. The Virginia Patent discarded Verrazano's barren proclamation along the coast, but did not touch Cartier's acquisitions to the north. (10) In 1606 the Virginian settlements which had failed at first were revived. They received the right, according to King James' Patent, to have and hold all the land from Cape Fear to the St. Croix River. This territory was divided into two districts : (i) the north part, controlled by the Plymouth Company, and taking in all land from east to west between latitude 41*^ N. and 45"^ N., thus including the coast-line from the mouth of the St. Croix to the Hudson River, and embracing the Lake country in the interior ; (2) the London Company included the littoral from the mouth of Cape Fear River to the mouth of the Potomac, lying between latitude 34*^ N. to 38° N. Jamestown was founded by the London Company in 1607, and the two capes at the entrance of the bay were named after Henry and Charles, King James' two sons. This was the first permanent settlement of Englishmen in the continent of North America. It may be remembered that the first permanent French colony had been settled at Port Royal (Annapolis) by De Monts in 1604, three years previously. In 1620 the Plymouth Company was reorganised as the Council of Plymouth for New England, and included within their boundaries the whole North American coast 4 [Ch. I.l Extent of New France. from latitude 40° N. to 48*^ N., thus embracing the whole of Canada from Tadousac along the valley of the 8t. Lawrence to the interior. (11) It must be borne in mind that in 1598, more than fifty years after Eobei-val and Cartier, a charter was given to De la Roche by the French king. He was Viceroy of Canada, Acadia (meaning Nova Scotia, New Brunswick and part of Maine) and the adjoining ter- ritory, with sole right to carry on the fur-trade. In 1603 an exclusive Patent was given to Do Monts from 40^^ N. to 46''N. latitude. To this territory and more beyond it the Plymouth Company laid claim in 1620. Thus one charter is constantly overlapping and including anothei', and the confusion of rights could only be settled by the strong arm. It may be however some help to notice here what New France meant at different dates, before the name disappeared altogether from the North American continent. (12) In 1655 New France meant, according to French claims, Newfoundland, Labrador, Acadia and Canada, and the countiy beyond as far as it was discovered to the west and south by the Jesuits and others. It also meant French Florida \ This was a tract of country wedged in between Virginia on the north and Spanish Florida on the south. The Cape Fear River on the north and the Altamaha River on the south formed definite geographical limits. It was a tract of country including the watershed of the Savannah, Santee, and Great Pedee Rivers. Between the St. Croix River and Cape Fear River, that is between Acadia and French Florida, lay New England, from St. Croix to the Con- necticut and Hudson, New Netherlands along the Hudson and Delaware, Maryland and Virginia from the Sus- quehanna to Cape Fear River. Along the interior the ^ See Labberton's ' Historical Geography.' 10 The Geognqyhy of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch. Alleghanies formed a boundary between New France and the Coast Settlements. (13) In 1 713, by the terms of the Treaty of Utrecht. New France lost the Atlantic sea-board she possessed in Newfoundland, Hudson's Bay, and also Nova Scotia and New Brunswick ; but she still retained the valley of the St. Lawrence, Cape Breton, St. John's Island, (Prince Edward Island), and the vast region lying on either side of the Mississippi from the Lakes to the Gulf of Mexico, known as Louisiana, claimed for Louis XIV by De la Salle (1682)'. Louisiana was an emj^ire in itself, bounded by Oregon territory on the north-west and New Spain on the west. After February 10, 1763, New France disappeared entirely. The settlements comprised in the St. Lawrence valley, the Lake region, the Great North-West with its vast hunting j^reserves, and the command of the whole country southwards as far as the Gulf of Mexico, with the Mississippi as the western boundary, had fallen into English hands. This was the land Voltaire said was • not worth fighting for, because, after all, it only con- sisted of a few acres of snow.' (14) After September 3, 1783, the United States Terri- tories appear upon the map, and the dividing inter- national line is shown from St. John's Kiver and the coast to longitude 95" W. or about the meridian of the Lake of the Woods. In 1803, Napoleon sold Louijiana to the American Government for £3,000,000, more than doubling the area of the Republic. The international boundary line then appears (lat. 49°) upon the map, twenty degrees further west, as far as long. 1 1 5^ W. up to the Oregon territory. This boundary line was completed to the Pacific coast after the acquisition of Oregon territory from Great Britain in 1846. ^ Appendix II. I. [Ch. ee and trecht, ised ill :ia and of the Prince either InU of ilV by Oregon le west, ppeared iwrence *vith its a whole o, with en into aid was ily con- !S Terri- g inter- and the ti of the louijiana ore than national he map, ii5^W. line was sition of I.] Present Boundaries and Area. 1 1 There were two minor disputes, already alluded to, between Canada and the United States on the question of boundaries ; (i) that touching an area of 1 2,000 square miles between the Province of New Brunswick and the State of Maine, settled in 1841 by the Ashburton Treaty ; (2) that touching the possession of the island of San Juan, decided in favour of the United States. Alaska was bought from Russia by the United States in 1868. It was not till 1873 that the present boundaries of the Canadian Dominion appeared upon tlio map. (15) The Southern boundary line, as it now exists between British America and the United States, follows the 49*^ north latitude from British Columbia to the Lake of the Woods, thence in a wavy line along Eainy River to Thunder Bay on Lake Superior. Thence to the east through Lakes Superior, Huron, Erie, Ontario till the 45^ line is touched upon the St. La vrence. The State of Maine is thrust northwards, forming a rough-shaped triangle, with New Brunswick on its eastern side. The 45^ line is again touched at the Bay of Fundy. At the extreme north-west, British North America is separated from Alaska along the 141'' of west longitude. The Dominion of Canada comprises, therefore, the whole of the continent north of the United States frontier, with the exception of Alaska, stretching up to the Arctic regions, bounded on the east by the Atlantic and on the west by the Pacific oceans. It includes the following Provinces and Territories : — Quebec, Ontario (Canada Proper), Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island, Manitoba, North-West Territory, British Columbia. (16) The Area of the Dominion, not including the Lakes, is 3,470,253 square miles, the greater pait being in the North- West Territories. This is nearly equal to that of the United States, which with Alaska is 3,585,900 square miles, while that of Europe is computed at 3,800,000. 12 The Geography of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch. The following list shows the estimated population of the most impoi-tant cities in the Dominion (1890) ' : — Montreal • 202,000 Halifax (N. S.) . . 40,000 Toronto • 172,000 Loudon . 27,000 Quebec • 65,000 Winnipeg . 22,000 Ottawa (capital) . . 44,000 Kingston . 1 7,000 St. John (N. B., witli Victoria (B. C") . . 14,000 Portland) , 44,000 Charlotte Town . . 13.000 Hamilton . • 43,000 Brantford . 1 3,000 Compared with Australia the urban, as distinguished from the rural, pojiulation is far less in proportion. For instance, the city of Melbourne, the capital of the colony of Victoria, is now said to contain a population of 410,000 out of a total of 1,000,000 ; and the city of Sydney, the capital of New South Wales, contains 351,000 out of a total of about a similar number. Mr. Macfie, an Austra- lian colonist, has recently pointed out that this crowding of one-third of the populations of New South Wales and Victoria in Sydney and Melbourne respectively is an un- healthy sign. * How striking is that abnormal and un- I)roductive concentration of an excessive proportion of the inhabitants of Australia in a few towns, compared with the wholesome distribution of population in the most prosperous countries of Europe and America where land culture is properly held to be the chief industry. In the United States in which agriculture and horticulture take their rightful place, less than one-seventh of the total population is diffused over twenty-four cities, each containing inhabitants exceeding 70,000. Some idea of the importance of American agriculture may be formed from the fact that it produces an annual yield of nearly .£800,000,000, and employs on 5,000,000 farms 10,000,000 persons. Sweden and Norway, with 6,000,000 industrious people, have only half a million living in towns, the * See ' Official Handbook,' published by the Government of Canada, January, 1 890. I i n. [Ch. ntion of 40,000 27,000 2 2 ,000 1 7,000 14,000 13,000 13,000 iguished )n. For iG colony 410,000 Iney, the out of a I Austra- 3rowding i^ales and is an un- and iin- on of the ired with the most lere land ;try. In ■ticulture of the ties, each idea of e formed of nearly 0,000,000 dustrious Avns, the •nment of I.l 5^ Dlsjyersion of Population. millions being thrifty. 13 hard-working remanung peasants '.' The population of the Dominion of Canada was dis tributod thus, according to the last Census : — Mulfs. Fi-mali:^. Ontario .... 976,461 946,767 Quebec .... 678,109 680,918 Nova Scotiii 220,538 220,034 New Brunswick 164,119 157.114 Prince Edward Island 54.729 54,162 Manitoba .... 37.207 28,747 The North-West Territories . 28,113 28,333 British Columbia 29.503 19.956 2,188,779 2,136,031 4,324,810 It is now (1890) calculated to exceed 5,000,000. Wo may argue, therefore, that a very large proportion of the colonists are agriculturists, fishermen, and farmers. This is a more wholesome sign of a country's wealth, a pros- perous rural population being regarded at all times as the 'backbone of a country.' In the question of the distribution of the population, it must be remembered that Canada's unrivalled lakes and rivers have helped largely to create many points of industry in all quarters \ The growth of the town populations has been remark- able nevertheless. For instance : — In 1 80 1 the population of Toronto was .. 1830 M 1845 „ 1851 1881 >. ») 336 2,860 19,708 .30,775 86,445 In 1816, Quebec contained 14,880 inhabitants; in 1851 it contained 42,052 ; in 1881, 62,446. Montreal, fifty years ago, held less than 30,000 with suburbs ; it is now the largest city. Winnipeg provides us with a ' Extract from Paper entitled ' Aids to Australian development,' read before the Fellows of the Royal Colonial Institute, December, 1889. a Appendix III. 14 ^^tc Geofira2>ly of the Canadian Doinilnion. [Cu. more recent example of (juick growth. In 1888 its population numbered 25,000, in 1870 it was only 200. Contrasted w^ith Cai)e Town, the capital of a country wliich has been colonised for 300 years by Europeans and only numbers 30,000 white inhabitants, this growth in Canada, although it does not touch the rate of the Australian cities, is very remarkable. It is calculated that British North America could easily support a popu- lation of 140,000,000 at the rate of 40 to the square mile. The population of England is 450 to the square mile. (17) Physical Features. — River Systems.— The Cana- dian Dominion is pre-eminently a land of wide lakes and long rivers. There is no such water^vay as that of the St. Lawrence in the world. From Belle Isle to the head of Lake Superior, a distance of 2400 miles, there are only 72 miles of canal. Ocean-going steamers can steam 1 300 miles up its course into the country. At its mouth (usually placed between Cape Chatte on the southern bank and Pointe des Monts on the north) the St. Lawrence is 20 miles across. There are four main river systems in the Dominion: (i) That of the St. Lawrence; (2) the Nelson River with Lake Winnipeg, into which the Saskatchewan, Assiniboine, Red, and Winnipeg Rivers find an outlet ; (3) Mackenzie River — each of these draining a basin of half a million of square miles on the average ; (4) the Eraser River, in British Columbia. For purposes of in- land communication these systems are invaluable, but in addition the Dominion has deeply indented shores on the Atlantic and Pacific sides, and a coast-line of many thousand miles, along which are the most profitable sea- fisheries in the world. The products of the fisheries, both exported and used for home consumption, were calculated (1888) to be worth J6,ooo,ooo\ (18) Plains and Mountains. — On the east there are » 'Official Handbook,' 1890. I [Ch. I.] Ri'vern, Mountains, and Laken. 15 a series of plains, divided from one another l)y com- paratively low ranges. In the centre is the northern slope of the great central plain of North America, st> flat and even that for many miles it seems possible to drive a carriage straight ahead without natural barriers. A small tumulus seems a hill on the vast unbroken level. Near Winnipeg, a small rising called 'Stony Mount,' of 60 to 80 feet high, is the only elevation along an immense river valley. The Idizzards, or sudden and severe snowstorms, which are one of the drawbacks of the American continent along its interior plateaux, are much less frequent north of 49* of latitude. No doubt the lower the plateaux the less liable are the inhabitants to this terrible scourge. It is in the United States Territories that blizzards are chiefly felt. On the extreme west is a rough mountainous country, including the northern portion of the Rocky Mountains and Cascade Mountains. The geographical features of British Noiih America are simply a continuation, al- though under very important variations of climate and latitude, of those of the United States. As there are plains in Texas, Montana, Kansas, Dakota, Nebraska, so there are in the prairies of the Great North-West. As there is a Pacific slope in United States Territory dis- tinguishable in features and climate from the interior plateaux, so there is a Pacific slope, only of greater width, in British Columbia. The Rocky Mountains are the Great Divide, the high wall cutting off one part of the continent from the other. Mount Brown and Mount Hooker are the highest peaks in the Dominion, and reach the altitude of 16,000 and 15,690 feet respectively. (19) Lakes. — It is however its magnificent lake system which is the peculiar characteristic of British North America. There are three main lake systems lying upon the surface of the country almost in a straight line from 1 6 The Geography of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch. south-east to north-west. Confining our attention simply to the largest sheets of water, under Group I we may place Lakes Ontario, Erie, Huron, and Superior ; under Group II, Winnipeg and Winnipegosis, and Manitoba ; under Group III, Lakes Keindeer, Athabasca, Great Slave, and Great Bear. The extent of countiy through which this chain of lakes stretches is from latitude 40" N. to the Arctic Circle. The minor lakes and lakelets of the Dominion may, in each system, be counted literally in thousands. For the sportsman, fisherman, and naturalist, they provide, in many cases, a most picturesque and productive recreation ground. If we except, perhaps, the newly discovered lakes of Equatorial Africa, there are no lake systems anywhere in the world approaching those of North America. In the account of the Provinces the lakes will be treated more particularly. Michigan, of course, lies outside Canada. (20) Climate and Products. — The Canadian Dominion extends from the latitude of Kome to that of the North Cape in Norway, and has consequently a great variety of climate. Generally speaking, it is much colder in winter and warmer in summer than in the British Isles. The average summer temperature of England is about 60-62*^, that of Canada between 60° and 70°. Taking a few points from east to west, we shall find that the heat is greatest in the interior plateaux, as we might expect in a con- tinental climate. The average summer temperature of Halifax is 60", of Fredericton 64°, of Quebec 69°, of Montreal 70°, of Winnipeg 65°, and of Vancouver 61°. In the United States, further south, we shall find the summer hotter than at any of the above places. Central Illinois has an average summer temperature of 74*^, Ohio of 70-74°, Iowa of 72-78°, Kansas and Missouri are hotter still. These latter temperatures are ten degrees too high for wheat, which ripens best at 60-65°. With a 4 k si J M )> )) )> ?) JJ Another table of statistics proves the fertility of the Province of Manitoba : — Spring WJieat. Manitoba , . . . ,40 bushels per acre. Minnesota (best wheat area of United States) 20 Wisconsin . . . . . i2'2 Pennsylvania . . . . 123 Ohio . . . . .12.8 In evidence before the Canadian House of Commons on agricultural matters, it was elicited that no less than 60 bushels of spring wheat had been raised to the acre. Hay also is very cheap and plentiful, and prairie grass when cut and dried averages 2 tons per acre. What is left out does not rot quickly, but is preserved rather than destroyed by the light dry snow, and the animals find winter sustenance by pawing away the snow and eating it. The northern limits for grains and grasses reach a ' Seep. 18 of 'Agricultural Canada,' by Professor Fream. Pub- lished under the direction of the Canadian Government, 1889. m\ 1.] Lhnits of Grains and Grasses. 19 r Ls d la very high latitude in the Canadian Dominion. Rye, barley, and roots can be grown nearly as far north as latitude 65°. The whole available area for grasses and coarser grains is calculated at 2,300,000 square miles. Maize, a tropical plant, sometimes ripens at latitude 54" on the Saskatchewan. At Vermillion (latitude 53^ 24''') eveiy kind of garden stuff can be grown. Barley sown on the 8th of May is ready to be cut within three months' time. At Fort Chippew5\an, at the entrance to Lake Athabasca, good samples of wheat and barley can be grown. At Fort Simpson, in latitude 61'^ N., l)arley always ripens, and wheat is sure four times out of five. At Fort Liard in latitude 61^ N. there is the warmest summer tempera- ture in the whole region, and it is said by those who live on the Yucon that barley sometimes ripens under the Arctic Circle in longitude 143° W.' At the Forks of the Athabasca, garden produce will grow well, and it was here in 1787 that the explorer Mackenzie found a garden cultivated by a European, who grew all kinds of European vegetables. These are facts elicited from Pro- fessor Macoun by a Committee on Immigration to Canada. The following assertion also on the climate was then made : * It will be seen that about the 20th of April ploughing can commence on Peace River, and from data in my possession, the sfime may be said of the Saskatchewan region generally. It is a curious fact that spring seems to advance from north-west to south-east at a rate of about 250 miles a day, and in the fall winter begins in Manitoba first and goes westward at the same rate.' (22) The summer isothermal of 70° crosses Long Island in latitude 41*^, passes Chicago at 42°, and then rises on the Saskatchewan to latitude 52° in longitude * See p. 83 of * Guide Book for Settlers.' Published at Ottawa by the Government of Canada, 1882. a 20 The Geography of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch. Ill hi: 110°. It sinks again at the desert areas of the United States to latitude 35*^ in longitude 105°, and rises to lati- tude 47'^ in Oregon. The isothermal of 65° which, on the Atlantic coast, is off Boston, in latitude 42°, rises throu'' Canada to north of Quebec, crosses the Red River at la tude 50'^ on the 97th meridian, and Mackenzie River near the 60th parallel. This gradual advance northward of the isothermal line in proceeding from east to west, is a fact of the utmost significance with reference to the vegetation of the country. The following table represents the mean temperature of Toronto and Winnipeg : — August September October . November December January . February . March April May June July This second table illustrates the average July to August temperature, tudes* : — Toronto. Winnipeg 66-38 67-34 58-18 52.18 45-84 .^5-84 36-06 30-66 25-78 n-97 22-80 6-10 22-74 12-32 28-93 14-14 40-72 39-10 51-74 53-13 61.85 • 63.20 67-49 68-19 fit for ripening cereals, at various lati- Lat. N. Summer. Spring. Autumn. Cumberland House Fort Simpson Fort Chippewyan . . . Fort Will iam Montreal Toronto Temiscaminguo . , . Halifax 5.3-37 61-51 58-42 48-24 45-31 43-40 47.19 44-39 62^ 59° 58° 59° 6f 64° 65° 61" . 3.f . - 32° ... . 26^ . . 27° ... . 22° . - 31° - . 39° - - 37° - . 39° - • 45° - . 42° . . 46° ... - 37° . - 40° -.. - 31° - - 46° -.. July and August. 64° 62" 60° 60^ 68" 66^ 66° 66" See p. 83 of ' Guide Book for Settlers,' 1882. I.] The Trees and Forests. 21 It will be noticed that altliough there are many degrees of latitude between Fort Simpson and Toronto, there is, according to the table, a difference of only four degrees of heat during the ripening months of July and August. (23) The Forests. — There is a great variety of trees in the Canadian forests, some of very large dimensions. The black walnut (Jitglans nigra) has an average height of 120 feet, the chestnut attains a height of 100 feet'. The climate of the Dominion is a peculiarly suitable one for large trees. They require a large rainfall and a high summer temperature as well, of 65" to 67" F. Such a tree as the sugar-maple will not flourish in Europe, the summer temperature being too low. The deciduous trees are the most numerous in Canada. Of the 114 known species of pines, twenty-one are natives of Canada or of the Hudson's Bay Territory. Alluding to their evergreen appearance in the midst of the Canadian winter, Humboldt has said, ' They proclaim to the inhabitants of the northern regions that, although snow and ice cover the land, the internal life of the plants, like the fire of Prometheus, is never extinguished.' The Pinus halsamea, or balm-of-Gilead-fir, and the spruce-hemlock are veiy beautiful trees. The Pinus alba or white-spruce is well known, with its height of 140 feet and long feathering branches. The king of the pine forests is the Pinus strohus or Weymouth-pine, so called from the attention given to its cultivation in Eng- land by Lord Weymouth. This tree attains the height of 200 feet. * Some attain a green old age, vigorous to the last, but are prostrated suddenly by the storm which has swept harmlessly over younger heads. Others that have outlived the eagle, sheltered from their earliest youth in some sequestered glade, but now tottering to ' See Article in the ' Quarterly Review,' No. 217. 22 Tlic Gcofjraphy of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch. their fall, stand bald, spectral, and desolate, waiting only for " Some casual shout tliat breaks the silent air, Or tho unimaginable touch of Time," to bow their heads to the earth. Then geraniums, honey- suckles, wood-lilies, fox-gloves, and fine flowers shoot up around them, and cover for a short time the prostrate trunks with a gorgeous pall, while they collapse and crumble into dust. The tints of the autumnal woods have always excited the astonishment and enthusiasm of travellers. Even in cloudy days the hue of the foliage is at times of so intense a yellow that the light thrown from the trees creates the impression of bright sunshine. Each leaf presents a point of sparkling gold. But the colours of the leafy landscape change and intermingle from day to day, until pink, vermilion, purple, deep indigo and brown, present a combination of beauty that must be seen to be realised, for no artist has yet been able to represent, nor can the imagination picture to itself, the gorgeous spectacle.' The exports of the produce of the forests are worth to the Canadians more than double the combined value of the exported jjroduce of the fisheries and mines'. In 1888 The produce of the Mines was $4,110,000 (^^822, 000). „ Fisheries „ §7,793,000 (jf 1,558,000). „ Forests „ $24,719,000 (^4,943,000). 11 The following is a description of the Canadian climate during the various seasons : — ' In the summer the excessive heat— the violent paroxysms of thunder— the parching drought — the occa- sional deluges of rain — the sight of bright-red, bright- blue and other gaudy-plumaged birds — of the brilliant humming-bird, and of innumerable fire-flies that at night ^ See 'Official Handbook of Information,' 1890. ^m. 1] The progress of the Seai^ons. 23 appear like the reflection upon earth of the stars shining above them in the heavens, would almost make the emigrant believe that he was in the tropics. 'As autumn approaches, the various trees of the forests assume hues of every shade of red, yellow and brown, of the most vivid description. The air gradually liecomes a healthy and delightful mixture of sunshine and frost, and the golden sunsets are so many glorious assemblages of clouds — some like mountains of white wool, others of the darkest hues — and of broad rays of yellow, of crimson, and of golden light, which, without intermixing, radiate upwards to a great height from the point of the horizon in which the deep red luminaiy is about to disappear'.' As winter approaches the birds migrate south ; first the humming-birds, then the pigeons, and next the geese, wild ducks, and plovers, all returning from their breeding haunts in the far north. Those descriptions of scenery and climate painted so often and so vividly by our Arctic explorers along the Polar Seas do not apply to the cultivable zones of grains and grasses further south. The eternal winter night, and the brilliant coruscations of the Aurora Borealis, are reserved for those who ad- venture deep into the realms of the Ice King. In the latitudes of 50-60'' winter is shorn of the extreme terrors of the Arctic Circle, and the colonist enjoying the same amount of daylight as in England, forms for himself regular occupations and regular amusements. The cold, though severe, is dry and conducive to health. In some places cattle graze out all winter, and early in April ploughing begins, and both seeding and i^loughing can go on together. (24) The climate of British North America is determined by great physical causes. The greater extremes in the interior can be explained by the fact that a * continental ' * Extract from ' Tlie Emigrant,' by Sir F. B. Head. i ii 24 The Geofjraphy of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch. as opposed to a ' maritime ' or ' insular ' climate is always subject to great variations. The oc(;an is able to store heat for a longer time than land, and on the sea-coast or on islands temperature is more uniform. In England, surrounded by water, our average temperature ranges from 40" to 60^, in corresponding latitudes in Central Asia the average is from o'' in winter to about 70'^ in summer. The ocean currents also play a great part in determining the climate of the Atlantic and Pacific coasts of the Dominion. The coasts of Labrador and Newfound- land and the Gulf of St. Lawrence, are chilled and frozen by the icy current down from Davis's Straits and Baffin's Bay, bringing with it floes and icebergs down into the Atlantic almost to the latitude of Malta. The Gulf Stream, escaping from the Gulf of Mexico, just misses Newfoundland, and flows in a north-easterly direction past the British Isles into the Arctic Gulf, between Spitzbergen and Nova Zembla. It thus happens that the water which reaches the North Cape of Norway in 71*^, is of nearly the same temperature as that of the harbour of New York on the opposite side of the Atlantic in latitude 4o\ The vast expanses of the North American lakes have an effect upon the climate and keep it more uniform. The waters of the deeper lakes do not freeze in the winter except for a few miles out from shore, because the storage of heat gained during the summer months does not quickly escape from these immense inland seas of vast depth. In a small way they perform, as at Toronto, the functions of the seas, and reproduce, if we may so term it, an inland maritime climate on a modified scale. As the Canadian Dominion is a land of forests, the trees make a great difference to the climate. If the surface of a land is stripped of trees and herbage by fires or other destructive agencies, it becomes more quickly t 1.3 The EffecU of Climate. 25 hcntod by the sun, and evaporation goes on more speedily. The immense forests of Nortli America have materially assisted the rainfall in the country. At the same time they have contributed to its richness. For centuries the rotting leaves and foliage from deciduous trees have been accumulating, until the surface of the earth is covered with a fruitful and reproductive soil which the axe of the lumberer discloses to the light. The action of snow upon the land is ])eneficial. It acts as a covering and protection, and prevents the earth being frozen down to any great depth. As a rule the earth in Canada is not frozen to a greater depth than twelve or eighteen inches. When the snow melts beneath the thaws of spring, the husbandnmn, especially in Manitoba, finds the fertile soil which he has ploughed in the autumn easily worked, thus saving him much labour. From another point of view the ice and snow are beneficial. For purposes of traffic and communication they open up the whole country. King I lost is the great Macadam of the country, providing an easy way for wagon and sleigh through the most inaccessible districts. The lumberer carries on his most active operation.s in the winter months. The question of soils is most important to husband- men who have to make their living on them and from them. The extreme richness and variety ' of the Prairie soils have only recently been fully known, as the re- sources of the North-West have been more scientifically analysed. Moreover, in the absence of agues and fevers these soils are especially healthy to live upon. (25) Dr. Philpot, Surgeon to Her Majesty's Forces, 1871, writes as follows: — 'Canada is an exceptionally healthy country. I do not hesitate to make the state- ment after seven years in the country, engaged in an ' Appoiulix IV. 26 The Geography of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch. extensive medical practice. As ,: race, the Canadians are fine, tall, handsome, and powerful men ; well built, active, tough as pine-knot and bearded like pards. The good food upon which they have been brought up (with the invigorating climate\ appears to develop them to the fullest proportion of the " genus homo ".' On the sea-coast and along the shores of Newfoundland and Nova Scotia a hardy population of sailors and fisher- men have been reproducing for generations the skill and daring of the old stock : if there were a Transatlantic wing of an Imperial fleet, here would be the material to recruit from. The Newfoundland ' Jack Tar ' is as loyal as his compatriot at home, and perhaps he has more skill and experience in practical arts of seamanship. His is a coast that tests to the uttermost his native courage. Al- though chilly and extremely rigorous at times, the climate of Canada is not so trying, by sea or land, as that of England, and it gives a new vigour. There is a dis- cern i1)le difference between the Canadian and American types, and it is thought that the northerners contrast very favourably with the southerners. They are living as a nation in a home which is more like that of Northern Europe, from which they sprang. In the valley of the St. Lawrence we may expect a hardier stock than in the valley of the Mississippi. The low readings of the ther- mometer during the Canadian winters, which at first sight seem extremely prejudicial to health, are not really so. The Prairie air is extremely dry, and 'enveloping the body in a medium, conserves its animal warmth, offering no facility for escape*.' The frames, therefore, of the Canadian colonists are hardy and robust. Their national courage remains the same, prompting to great enterprises. On more than one occasion Canadians have desired to ' See p. 33 of ' Agricultural Canada,' 1889. ; 5^1 n 1.1 Mil itary rga n im t ion. 27 share the perils and l)urclens of the mother-country. The most recent and i)erhaps the most nota)>le instance 'if this was during the Soudan campaign, when a number of Canadian roi/acicurs took part in the Nile Expedition under Lord Wolseley. (26) The Canadian army. — The Canadian Eeserve nominally consists of all male British subjects between eighteen and sixty, numbering about 700,000 men'. The following was the disjiosition of the active force, January i, 1888 : — Cavalry Fii'kl Artillery Garrison Artilk-rj'. Engineers . Infantry and Rifles 1,987 1,440 3,479 179 31,506 3^.591 The Dominion is divided into twelve military dis- tricts : — Ontario . ... 4 Quebec . . . .3 Nova Scotia .... 1 New Brunswick . . i Prince Edward I^iiiud . . i British Colunil>ia . . .1 Manitoba . . . . i I 2 The different provinces of the Canadian Dominion have, in each case, their geographical and climatic pecu- liarities, as may be gathered from a study of the general features of the continent. The maritime provinces of Nova Scotia, Nnv Brunswick and Prince Edward Island dift'er from the river and lake provinces of Quebec and Ontario. Manitoba and the districts of the i)rairies naturally dilfer from both, and when we cross the Kocky Mountains we find in the province of British Columbia ' See Ilayden and Selvvyn's • North Aniericji," ji 54,?. 28 The Geography of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch. distinctive and peculiar features. The range of country is vast, running for a distance of 3000 miles through 75"^ of longitude, i. e. from 5-,° to 130 , from Newfoundland to Queen Charlotte's Island. At each step westward we are brought face to face with new revelations of nature on a grand and colossal scale. The sky is bluer, the mountains higher, the rivers larger, the forests bigger, the plains broader, than in the Old World. CHAPTER II. Qvehec. (1) The Province of Quebec, the first important centre of French colonisation, is traversed by the St. Lawrence, and has the advantages both of a maritime and a con- tinental country. It extends from east to west between 57° 50' and So'^ 6' W. longitude and from south to north between 52"^ and 45° N. latitude \ Its shape resembles that of a triangle with its base to the south-west and its apex at L'Anse au Sablon, just inside the Straits of Belle Isle. Its greatest length from the north-west corner to the Straits of Belle Isle is about i3-,o miles; its greatest width along the 71st and 72 nd degrees of W. longitude about 500 miles. It is bounded on the ' See p. 7 of ' General Sketch of tlie Province of (Quebec,' by the Hon. Honon^ Mercier, Premier of tlie Province, 1889. r^j't ' IM: I ' 1 ^^^ in Quebec. 29 east, south-east, and south by the Gulf of St. Lawrence, the Bay des Chaleurs, the river Restigouche, and tlio interprovincial line which divides it from New Bruns- wick, thence by the international line dividing Canada from the United States to the JIall Jiiver ; thence by the 45th degree of N. latitude to its intersection with the middle of the river St. Lawrence at Point St. Regis ; to the south-west, west, and north-west by the middle of the river St. Lawrence from Point St. Regis to Point a Beandct ; thence by the interprovincial line which sepa- rates it from Ontario to Point Fortune on the Ottawa ; thence along the middle of the Ottawa and Lake Temis- camingue to the northern extremity of that lake ; thence by a meridian line to James' Bay ; to the north-west and north by James' Bay as far as the mouth of the East Main River ', l)y the right shore of this river from its mouth to its source ; thence going north by a line strik- ing the most northern waters of the great river Esqui- maux, thence in a circular line till the 52nd degree N. latitude is struck, and thence to the St. Lawrence River. (2) The area of this Province is 258,634 square miles. Deducting the surface of the inland waters and those of the River and Gulf of St. Lawrence, the land amounts to 188,688 square miles or 120,764,651 acres. The whole area exceeds that of France by 54,000 square miles. The perimeter of the whole province is about 3000 miles, of which 740 miles are sea-coast and 2260 miles land-frontier. If we count the north and south shores of the St. Law- rence as an interior develoi)ment of coast along which steamers can pass we get an extra distance of 11 50 miles. The Islands of Anticosti and Brion, the Bird Rocks, the Magdalen Islands, a barren group about fifty miles north of Prince Edward Island, and all the islands near Gaspe ' See p. 8 of llonoiv Moreior's 'Sketch of the Province of Quebec' n M . 30 The Geography of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch. belong to the province of Quebec. Anticosti is an un- cultivated island about 145 miles long and 30 miles broad, dividing the St. Lawrence Gulf into two channels. It is chiefly used as a fishing station in the summer. Montreal Island and the Isle of Orleans are in the St. Lawrence, Allumet and Calumet in the Ottawa '. The province of Quebec is chiefly made up of that great basin, whose waters flow towards the St. Lawrence. The valley of the Kichelieu forms a kind of inner triangle with its head at the entrance of Lake St. Peter and its base at the international boundary on the south. The area is 1400 square miles, and the surface is level with the exception of a few eminences. From one of these eminences called 'Beloeil,' about 1400 feet high, a mag- nificent view of this fertile plain can be taken in. To the north Montreal and the great Victoria Bridge can be seen, to the south Lake Chami)lain, fifty miles distant. (3) Mountains.— Quebec has two mountain systems, (i.) The Laiircntian with a general trend from north-east to south-west. From Labrador on the east to the neigh- bourhood of the Saguenay these mountains form a com- pact barrier only broken through by the large rivers which cut them transversely. In approaching the Sague- nay the chain separates into two distinct ranges : (i) that of the ' height of lands ' which describes a great curve to the no th in the direction of Lake St. John; (2) that of the Laurentides, properly so called, skirting the north bank of the St. Lawrence River and receding gradually from it to a distance of thirty miles in rear of Montreal, forming the southern watershed of the basin of Lake St. .John and the Ottawa River. Along this whole distance the average height is about 1600 feet. Near Lak(.' St. John the principal crest of the mountains is 4000 feet. ■ See Ilonon'' Mercier's ' Sketch of tlie Province of Quebec' II.] Quehec. 31 Cape Toiirmcntc, just below Quebec, is 19 19 feet ; St. Anne's Mount, twenty miles ])elow, 2687 feet. It is the presence of these mountains which adds to the romantic beauty of Quebec. In the county of Argenteuil, north of the Ottawa River, the highest summit is that of * the Trembling Mountain,' eo6o feet. The average elevation of the interior plateau of the province in which the })asin of Lake St. John and the Upper Ottawa is situated is about 600 feet above the sea. Lake St. John is 293 feet above the sea. Amongst these mountains there are dense forests of conifers and hard woods. The valleys espe- cially abound in pine, spruce, and cedar. To the geologists, the Laurentian Rocks, extending over an area larger than France, have been extremely interesting as throwing light upon their science and opening out an older leaf of the world's history than any hitherto known. Amongst the limestone beds of the Laurentian range a fossil was discovered and named the Eozoon Canacknsr, the oldest relic of life which has been found upon the globe. 'The Laurentian Rocks must have been separated by a vast lapse of time from the next formation which suc- ceeds them. For during that intei-val they had been changed from the state of sand, mud, and gravel, into gnarled crystalline gneiss, schist, and quartz-rock, and in that altered state had been anew exposed to denudation. It is beyond that immense gap that Sir William Logan's discovery enables us to throw back the beginning of life. . . . Whilst chronicling this Canadian discovery — which marks an epoch in the history of geology — Sir Roderick Murchison has shown that a representative of the Laurentian rocks exists in Great Britain, and the whole of the Scottish Highlands has been brought into relation with the rocks of the rest of the island '.' ' 'Quarterly Review,' No. 249. ' Siluria,' by Sir Roderick Murchison. 32 The Geography of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch. (ii.) The Alleghany system. This chain is simply a prolongation of the Appalachians. Beginning from the east end of the Gaspo Peninsula they skirt the southern shores of the St. Lawrence, and only begin to trend away from it at Kamouraska. The first principal axis bends towards the river and runs to the north-west in the direction of St. Ann's Mount, and then inclines towards the south-west to form the heights between the Cape Chatte and Matane Kivers, diverges in the direction of the Chaudiere River opposite Quebec, beyond which the principal ridge runs south-west and then southward into Vermont territoi'v, where it is known as the Green Mountain. From Gaspe to Quebec this mountain chain forms the watershed between the basin of the St. Law- rence to the north and the Bay des Chaleurs and Bay of Fundy on the south. It gives a veiy imposing appear- ance, especially at Cape Chatte, to the St. Lawrence River. Some of the peaks in the region between St. Anne and Matane Rivers attain a lofty height. Mount Logan is 3768 feet high. These mountains are known generally as the Notre Dame Range. (4) Lakes. — The small lakes of Quebec province are very numerous and can be counted in hundreds, espe- cially on the north side of the St. Lawrence amongst the Laurentian Mountains, between the Ottawa and Saguenay Rivers, but as a rule they are comparatively small. Lake St. John has a superficies of 360 miles ; Ch-and Ldlie, latitude 48 and longitude 77 W., one of 550 miles. Lake Crossways lies at the sources of the St. Maurice, Lakes Kempt, Manouan, and La CoUotte form a group further south. Lake Tcmiscamingue lies at the sources of the Ottawa, Lake Shecoubish at those of the Saguenay, Mistassinnie at those of the Rupert. Lakes Edward and Kajoualwang are south of St. John's Lake. Lake St. Peter is formed by the St. Lawrence. II.l Quehec. 33 (5) Rivers. — The St. Lawrence rises in a small lake in Minnesota, which discharges its waters into Lake Superior by the Kiver St. Louis. It is designated by different names ; St. Mary's between Lake Superior and Lake Huron ; St. Clair or Detroit between Lake Huron and Lake Erie ; Niagara between Lake Erie and Lake Ontario ; and lastly, St. Lawrence, from the latter lake to Pointe des Monts, which is regarded as the line of separation between the river and the gulf. 'The total length of tlie St. Lawrence is 2180 miles. Its ordinary width varies between one and four miles in its upper course, increasing below Quebec to twenty and thirty miles at its mouth. It is navigable for ocean vessels to Montreal, which is 833 miles from the Straits of Belle Isle ; and from Montreal to the head of Lake Superior, a distance of 1398 miles, can be navigated by vessels of 700 tons with the aid of canals built to overcome the rapids. The smallest locks of these canals are 270 feet long, 45 wide, with 9 feet of water \' The tidal current is felt on the St. Lawrence as far as Three Kivers, half-way between Montreal and Quebec. The Ottawa is the largest tributaiy of the St. Lawrence. It is about 600 miles long, and drains an area of 80,000 square miles. It rises in the west of the province, and forms a boundary line between Quebec and Ontario for 400 miles. It is navigable for 250 miles, the rapids and falls being avoided by canals. The Ottawa is a picturesque river, and is fringed by the noblest forests in the world. It is on the Ottawa and its tributaries that the lumberer finds the best timber. The Ottawa is described as * a 'ong succession of reaches studded with islands, narrow I '^s, fair lakes, impetuous rapids, and magnificent falls. The oyage on its water, day after day, is a succession of charming surprises. At one time a wide prospect of '■ See p. 43 of Ilonore Mercier's 'Sketch of the Province of Quebec' \jr 34 The Geography of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch. open lake reaches almost to the horizon ; at another, you look over an endless undulating extent of hill and dale ; then you are shut up within a narrow gorge without visible escape. To increase the feeling of exhilaration which variety gives, the traveller is compelled to change perpetually his mode of conveyance — from steam to stage, from boat to ferry, from car to scow. At some intervals the traveller may have to walk ; for instance, where a narrow platform, thirty feet high, crossing a rocky valley, has been burnt by a fire in the woods.' The tributaries of the Ottawa are — River du Moino ■ So „ Noire 115 ,, Giitineau • 250 „ du Lifevre 170 ,, Petite Nation . 50 ,, Rouge . 120 ,, du Nord 60 The Sagucnay is a tributary of the St. Lawrence, and flows from Lake St. John. It is a stern and gloomy river of immense depth, and has been described as * a tremen- dous chasm cleft in a nearly straight line for some sixty miles.' It brings down the waters of Lake St. John, which receives the inflow of fourteen streams. Like the Ottawa, it boasts of magnificent scenery and forests. Thirty-five miles from its mouth are two lofty capes, some 2000 feet high, called Capes Trinity and Eternity. At the mouth of the Saguenay is Tadcusac, 134 miles from Quebec, one of the first posts occupied by the French with the purpose of securing the fur-trade. Some distance up the river is Chicoutimi, an Indian word meaning ' deep water,' where the navigation ends. The Montmorency joins the St. Lawrence 8 miles below Quebec. It is noted for its famous Falls, where a stream of water 50 feet wide rushes over a steep precipice 250 ' Sec p. 15 of Honore Mercier'a 'Sketch of the Province of Quebec' g II.] Quebec. 35 feet high. It is one of the many ' sights ' of Canada, and its appearance in winter when a solid dome of ice 200 feet high is piled up is wonderful. These Falls, being near Quebec, are often visited by ' sleigh ' and * toboggin ' parties. Close by is Haldimand House, where the Duke of Kent, Queen Victoria's father, once lived. Other important rivers on the north side of the St. Lawrence are : — Length. St. Maurice 280 miles Batiscan 93 >> Portnouf 80 ,, Betsiamite 112 ,, Outardes 234 ,, Manicoiiagan 224 ,, St. John's 150 ,, Dcs Esquimaux 100 ,, On the south side the chief rivers are : — The liichclicu, flowing from Lake Champlain on the south side into the St. Lawrence. It has a course of 50 miles. The St. Francis rises in Lake Memphramagog, and after a course of roo miles flows into Lake St. Peter. The Yamaska is about the same length. The Chaudierc flows from Lake Megantic, and enters the St. Lawrence nearly opposite Quebec. This river is noted for its beautiful Falls. (6) Counties and Districts, — The province of Quebec is divided into sixty counties : — 1. Argonteuil. 10. Champlain. 2. Bagot. II. Charlevoix. 3. Beauce. 12. Chateauguay. 4. Beauharnois. j Chicoutimi. ) 5. Berthier. * ( Saguenay. / 6. Bonaventure. 14. Compton. 7. Belle Chasse. 15. Dorchester. 8. Brome. / Drummond. ) 9. Chambly. ' ( Athabasca. J D 2 36 The Gcofjraphy of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch. 17- Ga.sp<^. 40. Pontiac. 18. Hocholjiija. 41. Portnouf. 19. Himtins'don. ( Quebec, C \ ( „ w. ) 20. Iberville. 42. 21. Jacques Cartier. 22. Joliette. Que])ec Co. 23- Kamouraska. 43- ( Kichmond. ) ( Wolfe. i 24. La Prairie. 25. L'Assoinption. 44. Richelieu. 26. Laval. 45- Rimouski. 27. Levis. 46. Rouville. 28. L'Islet. 47- St. Hyacinthe. 29. Lotbiniere. 48. St John's. 30. Maskinonge, 49. St. Maurice. 31- Megantic. 50. Shefford. 32. Missisiquoi. 51. Sherbrooke. 33- Montcalm. 52. Soulanges. 34. Montniagny. 53- Stanstead. 35- Montmorency. 54- Temiscouata. ( Montreal, C. \ I „ w. ) 55- Terrebonne 36. 56. Three Rivers. 57- Two Mountains 37- Napierville. 58. Vaudreuil. 38. Nicolet. Z9' Vercheres. 39- Ottawa. 60. Yamaska. In these 60 counties there are 65 electoral districts, the difference being caused by Montreal having 3, and Quebec 4 electoral districts. The total area of these counties is calculated to be 130,000,000 acres. This is distributed as follows : — Acres. Conceded in fiefs .... 10,678,981 In full and common socage (townsliips) . ^1950,9153 Surveyed in Town Lots . . . 6,400,000 Awaiting Survey .... 103,970,066 130,000,000 WW II.] Quebec. 37 (7) Towns and Cities.— Quebec has an historical interest of its own, which makes it difl'erent from all otliers. The French language, laws, and customs, are perpetuated amongst its inhabitants. A recapitulation of the names of its counties and towns alone would be a proof of its history. Such names as Champlain, .Tacques Cartier, Montcalm, Montmorency, Kichelieu, St. Ilyacinthe, St. Maurice, St. John's, Vaudreuil, recall vividly the cliief epochs of the history of what was once called New France. Of the whole population 80 per cent, are of French extraction \ Each coimty has a county-town, and next to Montreal and Quebec the most important are : — Richmond, the county-town of Richmond ; Sherbrooke, of Sherbrooke ; Three Rivers, of Three Rivers ; St. John's, of St. John's ; St. Hyacinthe, of St. Hyacinthe. Quebec (65,000) is the provincial capital of the immense province )f Quebec. It is a very old and interesting city. In 1608, Samuel Champlain, the great French explorer, founded Quebec at the confluence of the St. Lawrence and St. Charles Rivers. It occupies a most magnificent site, and was formerly so strongly fortified that it was deemed to be impregnable. Here, on the 'Plains of Abraham,' the decisive battle for the possession of Canada was fought in 1759, and here Wolfe and Mont- calm fell. It is 360 miles from the mouth of the St. Lawrence, and 180 miles from Montreal. * Let the spectator stand on the Flagstaff Battery within the lines won by Wolfe's gallantly, but which he could not live to enter. Below lie the steep narrow streets of a city as French as Havre or Calais. Yonder is an open market-place, with groups of women sitting at their stalls with kerchiefed heads. At a distant corner- house you may see a shrine to Our Lady, newly white- ^ Honor»5 Morcier s ' Sketch of the Province of Quebec' II 38 The Geograjjhy of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch. washed by the piety of the inmates. The first stone block adjoining the Cathedral is the celebrated Eoman Catholic College, the Laval University, named in honour of the first Bishop of Quebec. Another great pile of stone is the Parliament House for the provincial legisla- ture. . . . Then, still below, the shores are lined with warehouses and quays and masses of shipping. All the surrounding waters are filled with sails ; the scene is one of sunlight and life. Steamers with their filmy lines of smoke pass up and down the river, or rapidly across. At Point Levis, opposite the citadel, lie stranded or lazily floating incalculable masses of timber, waiting for transit to the British Isles, South America, or Australia. 'Quebec sits on her impregnable heights a queen amongst the cities of the New World. At her feet flows the noble St. Lawrence, the fit highway into a great empire, here narrowed to a mile's breadth, though lower down the water widens to a score of miles, and at the Gulf to a hundred. From the comi)ression of the great river at this spot the city derives its name, the word signifying in the native Indian tongue a strait. On the east of the city, along a richly fertile valley, flows the beautiful St. Charles, to join its waters with that of the great river. The mingled waters divide to clasp the fair and fertile "Isle of Dreams." 'The city, as seen from a distance, rises stately and solemn, like a grand pile of monumental buildings, clus- tering houses, tall, irregular, with high-pitched roofs crowd the long line of shore and climb the rocky heights. Great piles of stone churches, colleges, and public buildings, crowned with gleaming minarets, rise above the mass of dwellings. The clear air permits of the use of tin for the roofs and spires, and the dark stonework is relieved with gleaming light. Above all II.l Quebec. 39 rise the long dark lines of one of the world's famous citadels'.' (8) Montreal has a population of more than 200,000. It stands on Montreal Island, and was founded on the site of Hochelaga in 1642. This is a description by Parkman of the first founding of Montreal. It was in its beginning a religious enterprise, conducted by enthu- siastic men and women of France. * Maisonneuve sprang ashore and fell on his knees. His followers imitated his example ; and all joined their voices in enthusiastic songs of thanksgiving. Tents, baggage, arms, and stores were landed. An altar was raised on a pleasant spot close at hand, and Mademoiselle Nance, with Madame de la Peltrie, aided by her servant Charlotte Barre, decorated it with a taste which won the admiration of the beholders. Now all the company gathered before the shrine. Here stood Vimont in the rich vest- ments of his office. Here too were the two ladies with their servant, here Montmagny, no very willing spectator, and Maisonneuve, a warlike figure tall and erect, his men clustering round him. They kneeled in reverent silence as the Host was raised aloft, and when the rite was over the priest turned and addressed them. " You are a grain of mustard seed that shall rise and grow till its branches overshadow the earth. You are few, but your work is the work of God. His smile is on you, and your children shall fill the land.'" In addition to the above may be mentioned the follow- ing cities and towns ^: — Levis, 12,175; Hull, 6,890; Sorel, 5,791; Valley Field, 3,906; Nicolet, 3,764; Joliette, 3,268; Lachine, 2,406; Longueil, 2,335; Frazerville, 2,291; St. Jerome, 2,032; Chicoutimi, 1,935; Farnham, 1,880; Iberville, 1,847; Beauharnois, 1,499; ' Marshall's ' Canadian Dominion.' * Mercier's 'Handbook,' 1890. I'll 40 The Geography of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch. Kimoiiski, 1,417; Terrebonne, 1,398; Louisville, 1,381 ; L'Assomption, 1,313; Berthier, 1,039. According to the statement of the Honourable Honore Mercier, Premier of Quebec, the rural population constitutes 76-29 per cent. He also observes that from 1871-1881 the Eoman Catholic population showed an increase of 150,866 or 14-79 P^r cent. Supposing the progression to continue in the same ratio, the present decade will give an increase of 173,149, which will bring the number of Koman Catholics in 1891 to 1,343,867, or 87-97 per cent, of the total population of the Province. As regards callings the Census of 1881 grouped the Quebec population as follows : — Agricultural Industrial Commercial Domestic Unclassified 201,963 or 48-68 per cent. 81,643 „ 19.67 34,346 „ 8.27 „ 24)267 „ 5.85 72.635 ,. 17-50 ,. (9) The Eastern Toivnships are a peculiar feature of the province of Quebec. They lie close to Vermont and the United States frontier on the parallel of 45*^ N., in the vicinity of Lakes Memphramagog, Megantic, and Mas- sawippi, which are of surpassing beauty. The soil is very fertile, and the forests are full of timber. It is a purely agricultural district. These townships were ori- ginally settled by United Empire Loyalists, who adhered to England at the time of the American War. It is regarded as the * English ' portion of the province of Quebec. (10) There are five main centres of colonisation in the province of Quebec^: (i) The Valley of the Saguenay, where the extent of disposable land is 616,600 acres, valued at lod per acre; (2) The Valley of St. Maurice, • See p. 140 of Silver's ' Handbook to Canada ' (1881). T M II.] Quebec. 41 with 440,000 acres, for sale at 15. ^d. per acre; (3) The Valley of the Ottawa, with 1,358,000 acres, at is. 3^/. per acre ; (4) The Eastern Townships, with 850,000 acres, at 2s. 1(1. or 2,9. 6d. per acre; (5) Gaspe, where there are 491,100 acres, at the rate of lod. to is. ^d. per acre. Besides these centres, there are i^ million acres dis- posable in the var y of the Lower St. Lawrence. An emigrant, therefo may find abundance of room in the province of Quebec which, although it is the oldest of all, does not hold on the average six persons to the square mile. Elsewhere in the Dominion the space is abso- lutely unlimited. (11) The shipping of the province of Quebec in 1886 was as follows : — Ships. Tonnage. Amherst . .^3 1,092 Gaspo 44 2,347 Montreal . • 1,007 136,286 Perc^ 3 133 Quebec . . 856 101,481 1,975 232,556 This is exclusive of the fishing fleet '. At the close of 1885 more than 160 vessels were afloat, and 7,949 boats giving employment to nearly 11,322 men. In 1888 the total shipping of the Canadian Dominion was 1,089,642 tons. ' yee Uiggar's ' Canada,' 1889. tf r 42 The Geography of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch. CHAPTER III. Ontario. ; (i) When Champlain first explored the St. Lawrence, beyond Montreal, he came to a lake which for beauty and size seemed to surpass all others. The Indians called it Ontario, meaning in their language *The Beautiful Water,' and the explorer accepted the name. The Province of Ontario is the province of great lakes, as Quebec is the province of the great river which drains them. Formerly Ontario was called Upper Canada, and it received its present name and meaning in 1867. In contrast again with Quebec, Ontario is almost a purely British colony in population, customs, and tradi- tions. Quebec and Ontario, although they are near neighbours occupying conterminous territories, are to all intents and purposes distinct French and British colonies. That they should be so completely in accord on common subjects, and so loyal to a common centre of government, proves the power of Federal principles. Area. — The area of Ontario is calculated to be about 181,800 square miles', one and a half times the size of Great Britain and Ireland. No less than 25,000,000 acres have been surveyed. The boundaries of the Pro- vince are the River Ottawa and Quebec on the north- f-a&t, the St. Lawrence and the Lakes of Ontario and Erie on the south. On the west, it is bounded by Manitoba and the North- West Territories. The Western Peninsula, ' See p. 7 of ' Official Handbook,' 1890. [Ch. Bnce, jauty Jians 'The lame. akes, rains , and 1867. ost a tradi- near to all onies. timon inent, about e size )0,O0O ) Pro- tiorth- d Erie nitoba nsula, I ■ I I 1 T-] III.] Ontario. 43 i!| extending from Toronto to Lake St. Clair, has been called the ' Garden of Canada.' (2) Surface. — The highest mountains in Ontario are the Blue Mountains, on the south of Nottawasaga Bay. They do not exceed 1 000 feet. As a rule the country is flat or gently undulating, thus differing from the sister province of Quebec. The physical features and characteristics of the Pro- vince of Ontario are comparatively easy to understand. A glance at the map will show that Nature has given it a commanding position. Bordering on United States territoiy on the south and south-west, and reacliing in its furthest north-west limits to the Manitoba lake system, it seems fitted admirably by nature to be a dis- tributing centre for the north and south parts of the continent. The traffic Ijy the Sault Ste. Marie is said already to be equal to the tonnage that passes through the Suez Canal. Its railway system connects with that of the United States at half a dozen different points : the markets throughout the province are within easy range of the farmer in every settled district, the highways are kept in good repair, the towns and villages are thickly dotted over the country, being seldom more than five to ten miles apart, and, excepting in the new and far northern settlements, almost every farm is within fifteen miles of a railway station, shotvlng a healthy distribution of rural population. (3) Soil and Products. — The country has many varieties of soil, nearly all of which are fertile and easy of cultiva- tion. The farms yield a good return if cultivated with a view to stock-raising or dairy farming, fruit and mixed farming, the branches which promise in the future to be the leading features of agricultural industry in Ontario. Means of transport are ample, and freights are low. An Agricultural Return, collected by the Bureau of 44 Tlie Geography of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch. I Total yield. Per acre. 18,071,142 . . 16.7 9.518,553 . • 17-5 19,512,278 . 26.1 58,665,608 . • 35-4 1,106,462 . • 15-4 16,043,734 . • 20.5 1,678,708 . 21'2 482,072 . • 23-5 16,012,358 . • 144-7 8.7«7.743 • . 467.0 3,4/8,751 • • 338-3 47,061,053 . . 420.9 2,994,446 . .88' Industries for the Province of Ontario, gives the follow- ing average production of field crops per acre for the whole Province of Ontario in 1888, together with their yields : — Fall-wlieat (busliels) Spring „ liark-y Oats Rye r»-as Buckwheat Bdans Potatoes Mangolds Carrots Turnips Hay and clover (tons) (4) Towns. — The first town that claims attention in Ontario is Ottawa (44,000), the seat of the Federal Government. It is the centre also of the Ontario lumber trade. The Ottawa is the river by which, it will be recollected, the early explorers journeyed to the West across Lake Nipissmg and French Kiver, when the Niagara route on the south was closed against them by the hostility of the Iroquois. The city is in easy and quick communication with the St. Lawrence. It is thus described by the Marquis of Lome in his 'Canadian Pictures ' : — 'The city is placed on the banks of a broad stream, which narrows at one spot above the town and pours over a steep ledge of rock to expand immediately after- wards to flow on in a channel navigable except at one place where there are rapids, until it empties itself, about 80 miles away, into the St. Lawrence. Forty miles to the south, the last named mighty river is the boundary ' Extract from ' Official Handbook,' published by the Canadian Government, Oct. 1890. '1 III.] Ontario. 45 between Canada and the State of New York. To the north-west the Ottawa stretche.s on far into the wilds, having its head-waters at the heiglit of hmd which divides the basin of the St. Lawrence from that of Hudson's Bay.' Kingston (17,000) is described by the same writer as one of the pleasantest of Canadian towns. It lies in one of the oldest settled districts of Ontario and is situated on the Cataraqui River, being connected with Ottawa by the Rideau Canal. The Grand Trunk Railway j^asses through it, and the steamei's from Toronto and Montreal call at the port. ' Picturesque Martello towers rise from the waters and are posted along the environs of the town to where Fort Henry, on the hill to the southward, dominates the landscape. The streets of the lime-stone built city are well planted. Ship and boat-building with the several manufactories and the stir at the wharves caused by the transhipment of grain, keep a good deal of life in the locality, deserted as it is by troops and politicians. The traces of the old French fort built by Frontenac are yet visible . . . From Kingston the so- called thousand isles may be seen by taking the steamer down to Montreal . . . The width of the stream near Kingston is about seven miles and the whole area for many miles down is a labyrinthine maze of water, the rocky wood-clad group of islets separating the deep, strong-running channels.' (5) At the west end of Lake Ontario is Toronto, meaning 'the meeting place of the tribes,' once called Yorh (172,000). It is the seat of the Provincial Govern- ment, and has many important manufactories. Toronto is as near Liverpool, by the St. Lawrence and the Straits of Belle Isle, as New York is by the ordinary sea-route. It is called the ' Queen City of the West ' with its * array of dome and turret, arch and spire, and 46 The Geof/rcqjhy of the Canadian Dominion. [Cii. the varic'd movement of its wnter-frontn^o is one that cannot fjiil to evoke pleasure and create surprise . . . The city, which covers an area of eight or ten square miles, is built on a low-lyinp plain with a rising inclination to the upper or northern end, where a ridge bounds it, prob.ibly the ancient margin of the lake. Within this area there are close upon 120 miles of streets, laid out after a rigid chess-])oard pattern, though monotony is avoided by the pi'evalence of Boulevards and ornamental trees in the streets and avenues. What the city lacks in picturesqueness of situation is atoned for ])y its beautiful harbour and by its private gardens and public parks. The Custom House, with its adjacent examining ware- house, is perhaps one of the most striking instances of the new architectural regime. The business done here rates the city as second jiort of entry in the Dominion'.' Mr. Marshall remarks in his work on * The Canadian Dominion,' that 'the University of Toronto is perhaps the only piece of collegiate architecture on the American continent worthy of standing in the streets of Oxford ^' Niagara. The Falls of Niagara have been a theme of wonder ever since Father Hennepin first saw them and described them in his travels. No description can do them justice. Sir Charles Lyell calculated that 1,500,000 cubic feet of water pass every minute. The waters are gradually wearing the rock away and tlie shape of the Falls has changed much since the Jesuit I'xplorer saw them. The height of the American Falls is said to be 164 feet, of the Horseshoe Falls 158 feet. To Hennepin they seemed 600 feet high. It is said that the only Falls to be compared with them are the Victoria Falls of the Zambesi in South Africa. Charles Dickens in his ' ' Picturesque Canada,' edited by the Very Reverend G. M. Grant, Principal of Queen's University, Kingstf)n, Ontario. * This beautiful structure was destroyed by fire, Feb. 14, 1890. III.I Ontario. 47 ' American Notes ' has pourtrayed the * wreathing waters in the rapids hurrying to take their phi nge,' then 'the giant leap ' and the ' rainbows spanning them a hundred feet below,' and that 'tremendous ghost of spray and mist which is never laid, arising from its unfathomable grave.' The Indian says that this rising mist is the 'incense of the world rising to the Great Spirit.' Sf. Catharine's (ii,ooo) is situated on Twelve Mile Creek, and is the principal point on the Welland Canal. ' The country in its neighbourhood is like that of a great part of the peninsula between Lakes Erie and Huron, very fertile and originally covered with a fair growth of maple and other hard wood. It has now been carved out into excellent farms, occupied by people mainly Scots and English in descent.' (6) London (27,000) in Middlesex is one of the most enterprising and prosperous of the Canadian cities. It is built on a little stream called the Thames ; her bridges are named Blackfriars and Westminster ; her principal church is St. Paul's ; her streets are Piccadilly, Oxford Street, Regent Street, and Pall Mall. On the east on Lake Erie is Port Dover. Amongst other important towns are InyersoU in the county of Oxford; GucJph (11,000) famous for its Agricultural College; WoodsfocJc (8,314) in the county of Oxford ; Strafford (9,000) with an adjacent village of Shakespeare in Pertli ; WaUccrfoicn in the county of Bruce on the river Saugeen ; Hamilton (43,082) near Niagara, sometimes called ' the ambitious ' with a desire to rival Toronto; Brantford (13,000) which is brought into communication with Lake Erie by a canal. The name of Milton is commemorated in County Halton. Along Lake Ontario, on the northern shore, there is a Scarborough and Whitby. There is another Chatham in County Kent, and not far off a Colchester, Rochester, Maidstone, and Windsor, and Sandwich. The very 4^ The Geograj^hy of the CanatVuni Dominion. [Ch. I namos of tho counties and towns of Ontario hotray their English orif^in. A Journoy by steamer from Montreal to the extreme end of tht; great Province of Ontario is thus sketclied by the Marquis of Lome: — 'But here (at Montreal) if she be a ship of small ton- nage her journey need not be terminated. Kai>id waters tlash over the rocky ledges in the stream above, and the continuation of these rapids, which are often almost cascades, bars her direct progress ; but at these she finds magnificent canals constructed with 9 and sonuitimes 14 feet of water over tho sills of the locks, and she can proceed until the majestic waters of Lake Ontario allow her again for 150 miles to proceed upon her coarse. Then, wln.n the steam of \t;e Falls of Niagara rises above the plains which seem to shut out further advance, she slips quietly into the Welland Canal which carries her over 30 miles, until she passes out again upon the shallowest of the great lakes. Lake Erie. Onwards for another 140 miles, and then through similar works she reaches Lake Huron. Through a wonderful archipelago of islands, scattered on tho water on its northern shore, she wends her way until the old French post called the Rapids of St. Mary is seen upon the low and wooded shores. Here for the first time in her long inland voyage she has to leave Canadian territory, the canal which takes her onwards being built on American ground '. And now at last she will have arrived at the ultimate stage of her wanderings, for before her stretch the 400 miles of the deeps of Lake Superior, 600 feet above the level of the sea.' (7) The Lakes. — Besides Lakes Ontario, Erie, Huron, and Superior, many lesser lakes may be noticed in ' A new canal is being constructed in Canadian territory. "T^P III.] Ontario. 49 Ontario. Tlicro is Lnlc St. Clair, placod as a link botweon Lak«'.s Eli*' and Huron. Ldh' Sitnror, tho scono of oarly missionary ofTorts amongst the Ilurons. Lah'cIs'ipissiHf/, on tlu' olping of Ontario is on a great and in- creasing scale. The chief ports are as follows : — Names. I. Ottnwa . . -'. Brockville Cornwall . . Kingston . . Morrisbiirg . 3. Belleville . . Cobourg . . Hamilton . . Napanu . . Oakville . . Port Colborne Port Hope Pictoii . . . Toronto Whitby . . 4. Niagara . . St. Catherine's 5. Vmhcrstburg Dunville . . Port Burwell Port Dover . Port Rowan . Port Stanley . County. Carleton Leeds Stormont Frontenac Dundas Hastings Northumberland Wentworth Lennox Halton Nortliumborland Durham Prince Edward York Ontario Lincoln Welland Essex Monck Elgin Norfolk Norfolk Elgin Lake or River. on the Ottawa. on the St. Lawrence. y on Lake Ontario. on the Niagara. y on Lake Erie. [Ch. tings, Fron- •ly. frew, sland ttled. ;ricts. I the ly be a vil- own, city, i in- ence. ! , (I I' $S.' ;: f 1 I I; II i il I'l M Nova Scotia. Names. Countij. 6. Chatham . . . . Kent Windsor . . . Essex "• Goodrich . . . Huron s. Collingwood . . . Simcoo Sy No. 1, with list of Shipping and Population. £ 2 nv 52 The GeograjyJiy of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch. Pr.iiries. By tho twelfth article of the Treaty of Utrecht, ' All Nova Scotia or Acadia comprehended within its ancient boundaries, as also the city of Port Koyal, now called Annapolis, were yielded and made over to the Queen (Anne) of Great Britain and her Crown for ever.' Much of the romance of early colonisation has taken place in Nova Scotia. Those 150 adventurers styled The Knights Baronets of Nova Scotia, created l)y Charles I, give us a specimen of that determined s})irit of colonisa- tion of the New World in the wake of the Elizahethan heroes, which was characteristic of Englishmen. Little by little the British advanced, and fought many a sanguinary battle for the possession of Port Koyal, Canso, and Cape Breton, the key of the St. Lawrence in those days. At last the struggle closed with tlu; exi>ulsion of the Acadians from their country. The poet Longfellow has, with deep pathos, made the village of Grand Pre, Blomidon and the Basin of Mines historical. Nova Scotia, as the principal Maritime Province, has its peculiar and distinct features. The colonists who live there are chiefly fishermen and toilers of the sea, like those of Newfoundland. But mining and lumbering are carried on also to a largo extent, and the coal trade is steadily growing. 1,576,692 tons being sold in 1888, while very much less than half was sold ten years ago \ (2) Boundaries. — Tho Province of Nova Scotia is situated between 43° and 47" N. latitude and 60" and 67° W. longitude, comprising the Peninsula of Nova Scotia and the Island of Capo Breton. It is l)ounded on the north by Northumberland Strait and tho Gulf of St. Lawrence, on the east and south by the Atlantic Ocean, on the north-west by the Bay of Fundy and tho Bay of Chignecto. It is long and narrow in shape, running in a north-easterly and south-westerly direction. * See p. 4S of * Official Handbook,' iSgo. IV.] Xova Scotia. 53 Area. — Nova Scotia is about 3C0 miles loncf and 100 miles broad. Its coast-lino is 1200 miles, and tho whole area is 20,000 square miles, of which one-fifth is covered with lakes and small rivers. It is about one-ninth the size of Ontario. (3) Surface. — There aro no very high mountains in Nova Scotia. Tho central watershed extends down the whole length, giving a northerly and southerly slope. The highest mountains are found along Cape Breton in latitude 46° N. Tho South Mountains are iji Annapolis and King's counties, and form the western part of the central ridge. The North Mountains run parallel with them and border on the Bay of Fundy. Between them flows the Annapolis Kiver, along a most sheltered and fertile valley, which was the home of the Acadian peasantry, celebrated l)y the jtoet Longfellow in 'Evange- line.' The Cobequid Mountains lie in the county of Colchester, north of the Basin of Mines. The boldest scenery is found in Cape Breton from Inganischo to St. Anne's Bay. (4) Coast. —Nova Scotia and Cape Breton, which are divided by the narrow Gut of Canso, have a very long coast-line, deeply indented with innumerable bays, especially on the Atlantic sea-l)oard. It is, therefore, especially adapted for a seafaring and maritime popula- tion. Tho Bay of Fundy is remarkable for its tides, especially on its eastern arm, which terminates in the Bay of Mines. At the Equinoxes the tides rise some- times to the height of fifty feet, and form a bore similar to that seen in the Bristol Channel. Rivers. — There are no long rivers in the peninsula, owing to its natural configuration. No river exceeds fifty miles in length. The largest are the Shuhoiacad'ic, flowing into the east corner of Mines Basin. Fjist lilvcr of Pictou into Pictou Harbour, St. Marijs La Have, Mersey 54 The (1 cog rtipliy of tJie Canadian Dominion. [Ch. into the Atlantic on the south, Annapolis into Annapolis Basin, and CormvaUis into Minos Basin. Lakes. — TIutg are many lakes, ])ut none exceed twelve miles in length. The chief are : Darhics, Iiossianing ' the broad,' or, according to others, the 'five-fingered' rivi-r. It is 200 miles long. The Nc2)isiffuit is eighty miles long and flows very swiftly. It empties into Bathurst Bay, an arm of Chaleur Bay. The Mimmichi flows into Miraniichi Bay on the east coast, and is navigable for some distance. The Peticodiac flows into Shepody Bay on the south. The St. John is the largest river in New Brunswick, and is 450 miles long, being naviga1)le for large steamers as far as Fredericton, a distance of eighty-five miles, and for small steamers as far as Woodstock, a distance of 1 50 miles. The river is noted for its beautiful scenery and for its magnificent 'Grand Falls,' seventy-four feet high. Amongst its tributaries are the Oromocto, Madawaska. Tobique, the Washademoak and the Kennebecasis in the Province itself, and Aroostook and Allagash from the State of Maine. The St. John rises in Lake Temiscouata, close to the south bank of the St. Lawrence. Amongst the smaller rivers on the east coast arc the Kichibucto and Cocagne. The St. Croix is on the United States frontier and flows into the Bay of Fundy. Everywhere in this Province we shall find ri /ers and IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 1.25 " m m s. ill 31 IIIIM 2.2 2.0 14 IIIIII.6 'c-l e. ^2 ^. /a m //a y Photographic Sciences Corporation ^ 4^ \ \ 6^ a ^^^ "any used to exercise their rights, the rest of tho country heing now called the North-West Territories. It consists almost wholly of prairie land, and the settler has no trouble to begin with in tree-felling and log-burning in order to clear tho soil. In Manitol)a are wide, open, and limitless plains, and. in contradistinction to the Kiver and Lake Provinces of Quebec and Ontario, it is called 'the Prairie Province.* Before the Province was settled it was known as pai't of the Hudson's Bay Territory, the Selkirk Settlement. Red River Country, and Rupert's Land. As a home for settlers its history dates from 1811-16, when Thomas Douglas, Lord Selkirk, brought a number of Scotch- men out under his own care and supervision. He reached the Red River not by the KSt. Lawrence, but l»y Hudson's Bay, during the few summer months when navigation is possible. For a long time the Red River Settlement was an isolated tract of country, the nearest point to the head of Lake Superior being Port Arthur, distant 43;" miles. The word Manitoba is a contraction of two Indian words ' nianitou ' (spirit), and ' waban ' (strait), and was originnlly applied to a lake which seemed to the imagina- tive Indians to be troubled by some god or spirit. It is pronounced Manitoba. (2) Boundaries. — On the east and north lie Ontario F 2 '1 :| f i 114: u :•! - t;! ■ I; ili ' i!' ; I! I il I ! 68 The Geogra'phj of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch. and the Keewatin district ; on the south tho Intornational Bounchiry Line, on tho west the districts of Assiniboia and Saskatchewan. It occupies a central position in tho continent, being half-way between tho Pacific and Atlantic ()ceuns. It lies between 49-53' N. latitude, and 90-101'' VV. longitude. Its shaj)e is that of a parallelogram. Area. — Its area is calculated to be 60, 520 square iliiles, or as nearly as possible one-half the size of Great Britain and Ireland. The slope of the country is towards the north. The Riding Mountain and the Duck Mountain to tho north, rising nearly 2000 feet, and the Turtle Mountain to the south on the Boundary Line are the (jnly elevated points in this province, its surface being for the most part level or undulating. In tho words of the Earl of Duff'erin (1877), 'From its geographical position and its peculiar characteristics Manitoba may be regarded as the keystone of that mighty arch of sister provinces which span the continent from tho Atlantic to the Pacific. It is here that Canada, emerging from her woods and forests, first gazed upon her rolling prairies and unexplored North-West, and it was hence that as a prelude to future expansion she took a fresh departure.' Winnipeg is 1423 miles west of Montreal, about 200 miles further than Madeira from London, and the crea- tion of the Province of Manitoba at so great a distaijce from the old province is another illustration of the im- mensity of our North American domain. Yet, Manitoba is only in the centre of the continent after all, and is equidistant from British Columbia on the west and Quebec on tho east. The prairies seem absolutely limit- less, and they stretch to the base of the ' Rockies,' which by their trend to the north-west make the central plateaux of British North America wider than in the more southern hititudes of the United States \ This immense region, for ^ Appendix VIII. VI.] Manitoba. 6y hundreds of miles, is famed for its grains and grasses. Acre for acre, t\w country here could support a tlueker population than any similar tract on the globe. It is on the wonderful capacity of Manitoha and the North- West for producing grain and vegetables that the assumption is based that British North America could sustain a population of nearly 200,000,000 ; the northern limit for wheat being placed by Ilurlbert at 58'" N. lat. (3) Population. — The Province of Manitoba is in its infancy. In 1870 the population was 11,965, of whom only 1 614 wer'^ whites. Since then tho latter have rapidly increase ' and Avere estimated in 1887 at over 112,000, of whom about three-fourths are British. The city of Winnipeg alone is calculated to number 22,000 '. Besides British there are a large number of Germans, French and English half-breeds, and Icelanders. Of all nationalities the Scotch have been perhaps the most persistent and successful colonists of British North Am<'- rica. The Mennonites or German makers form a pecu- liar element in the population of Manitoba. They are settled along both banks of the Red River in twenty-five districts or reserves, embracing 512,000 acres, of which 300,000 are under settlement. (4) Lakes. — Manitoba, and the country to the north and north-west, is covered with a network of rivers and lakes extending far north. It is calculated that the great Lake Winnipeg drains a basin of 400,000 square miles, an area of country almost equal to the St. Lawrence Valley. Unlike Lake Superior and the others to thr west, Lake Winnipeg is comparatively shallow, and is nowhere more than 70 feet deep. Its elevation above the sea is 710 feet. Its length is 28c miles, and its breadth 57 miles ^ 1 See p. 68 of ' Official Handbook,' 1890. ' See p. 416, Hayden and Selwyn. m w m :i II i 1 I- 1 ^:- : . i f r !,1 \i I 70 T/^c Geof] )'(! pity I >f the Canadian Dominion. [Cn. iaA;c Winnipcgosis, or Little Winnipeg, is 120 miles long, 27 miles broad, and covers 2000 s(|Uare miles. This lake pours its superfluous waters through the Water- Ilen River into Lahe Manitoba, which is 120 miles long, about 24 miles broad, and covers 1900 sipiare miles. This lake, in its turn, pours its waters into Lake Winnipeg. (5) The Rivers of this region are : — V nnipcg lliccr, 16. -5 miles long, flowing north-west t"ron> the Lake of the Woods, and gathering in its coursi* the waters of many small lakes. The Bed Iliuer, nearly Coo miles in leug 1, flowing from the south, and entering Lake AVinniing. The Assinil'oine, from the north-west, joining the Ked Kiver at Winnipeg, and carrying the waters of the iSouris from the south. The Barens lUrer, draining some lakes from the east. Through the Littte Saskateheivan the accuniulateil waters of Lakes Winnipegosis and Manitoba flow into Lake Winnipeg, the communication between the two smaller lakes being by the Water-IIen River. The waters of Lake Winnipeg, which are gathered from so many different sources as far asunder as the Lake of the Woods through the River Winnipeg on the east, the ' Rockies' through the Great Saskatchewan on tlie west, and the hills of Minnesota through the Souris on the south, flow finally into Hudson's Bay on the north by the great Nelson River. This river is 350 miles K)ng, and passes through a largo number of small lakes. Its course is rendered difHcult to navigate by the count- less numbers of rapids. Its volume of water is enormous. Communication with the north-west, via ILidson's Bay and the Nelson River, is carried on with great difficulty, the Hayes route from York Factory being the usual inland route from Hudson's Bay. Ii\ the first place, VI.] Manitoba. the great bay itself is frozen over for six months in the year ; and in the second phice, there is no navigable river which can take the colonist and exploivr into the heart of the continent from tlie l)ay during tlui brief summer montiis. In Manitoba itself we have the key to undt x'standing the drainage and slope of the country surrounding Lake Winnipeg, for on the south the Winni- peg Eiver opens up the route (eastwards by lake and river to Thunder Bay, whilst on the north the Great Saskatchewan is 'the high-road to the north-west.' In course of time a railway may link Winnipeg with Hudson's Bay. (6) Climate. — There is no very marked diflVuHmce between the climate of Manltol)a and that of Quebec and Ontario, It is warmer in sununer an;l colder in winter. Spring opens up at nearly the sanu^ time along the country from Lake Superior to Athabasca :- 'The juncture of the seasons is not very noticeable. Spring glides insensibly into summer, summer into line autumn weather, which, during the equinox, breaks uj* in a series of heavy gales of wind accompanied by rain and snow. Thi'se are followed l»y that divine aftermath, the Indian sununer, which attains its true glory only in the north-west. The ha/inessand dreamy fervour of this mvsterijus season have often l)een attributed to the prairie fires, which rage over half a continent in the fall, and evoke an enormous amount of heat and smoke.* The winters avo also described : — *Tlu* winters of the north-west, upon the whole, arc agr eable and singularly steady. The mocassin is dry and comfortable throughout, and no thaw, strictly speak- ing, takes i>lace till the spring, no matter how mild the weather may be. The snow, though shallow, wears well ; and diffei's greatly from t'astt>rn snow. Its Hake is hard and dry, and its gritty consistence resend)les white . j f ---^^B m m W' ill 1 1' I ' i 1 • 1 ■ 1 1 i' ' ■1 i ! 72 The Geography of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch. slippery sand more than anything else. Generally speak- ing, the further west the shallower the snow, and the rule obtains even into the heart of the IJocky Mountjiins."" In south-western Ontario the winter is milder, no doubt, than at Eed River, but the soil beats the soil of Ontario out of comparison ; and, after all, who would ciire to exchange the crisp, sparkling, exhilarating winter of Manitoba for the rawness of Essex in south Ontario ? ' ' The mean winter temperature of Manitoba is 5"^ below freezing point, and for the summer 65^. In the depth of winter the atmosphere is generally calm and still, and the cold is, therefore, not felt in the proportion we should imagine in the raw, damp, and blustering climate of the British Islands. Probably there is no weather in North America so disagreeable as the cold raw spring-weather of England when the winds blow from the east. (7) Divisions. — Manitoba is divided into four counties : Selkirk, Proven cher, Lisgar, Marquette. These are sub- divided into twenty-four districts or electoral divisions, returning 38 members to the provincial assembly : — Westbourne. Portage la Prairie. Poplar Point. ) High Blufe. J Baie St. Paul. St. Fran?ois Xavier, W. St. Francois Xavier, E. Headingley. St. Charl-es. St. James. Winnipeg. Kildonan. St. Paul's. St. Andrew's, S. St. Andrew's, N. St. Clement's. Rock Wood. Springfield. St. Boniface. St. Boniface. St. Vital. St. Narbert. St. Agathe. St. Anne. ' Extract from Bryce's * Manitoba.' IflF VII.] North- West Territories. n t, io to of )W of nd we ate ler aw om es : iib- )ns, (8) Towns.— T'tw««/25r/7. In 1878 the first railway ran into Winnipeg, and since then a new era began for the North- West, and the jirosperity of the town commenced. Standing at the confluence of the Ked Kiver and Assini- boine it is the doorway to the great prairie region beyond, and is a great distributing centre. In 1874 the assess- ment of real and personal property was 2\ million dol- lars ; in 1883 the assessment of the town had risen to 32 1 million dollars. The site of Winnipeg was occupied originally by a post of the Hudson's Bay Company, and was known as ' Upper Fort Garry. ' Portage la Prairie ' (2500) is 56 miles west of Winnipeg along the railway, and is becoming a mercantile and manufacturing centre. Brandon is a rapidly rising town further west, with a population of 3000. Amongst others there is Selkirk (1000), Emerson (800), and other smaller towns and villages. Gladstone, Minnedosa, Shoal Lake, and Birtle are on the Manitoba and North-West Kailway, which is opening up the Great Saskatchewan valleys. •' CHAPTEK VII. Korth- West Territories. (i) Under this general term may be included all the land of the Canadian Dominion not contained in Quebec, Ontario, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, New Bruns- wick, the North-East Territories, Manitoba and British See p. 69 of ' Official Handbook,' 1890. —Ti I ! m ! » h ■ • fi ■ !' !i 1 ' 1 i ) 1 i i i ' i, ; . 74 The Geography of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch. Columbia. These territories ^ are the great unorganised domain of North America, and stretch over a vast tract of country far northward to the Arctic Ocean. On the west they are traversed by the Rocky Mountains. The main cha- racteristics of the climate and country have been already described. Towards the extreme north the cold is more intense, and Great Bear Lake is said to be frozen over for eleven months in the yefu*. Near the Arctic Ocean trees cease to grow, and the vegetation consists only of mosses and lichen. In winter it seems to be perpetual night, and in the shortest day there are only a few minutes between sunrise and sunset. In the summer the sun seems hardly to set at all, and this is the time when the exploiter and traveller has to push his journey forward. (2) Provisional Districts.— yl.s.s/;///^o/a contains about 95,000 square miles, and is l)ounded on the south by the International Boundary, on the east by Manitoba, on the north by a line drawn rear 52" lat., and on the west by a line near ' lo"^ west lou"'. The Qu'Appelle Valley is in the district of Assinil)oia. and is one of the favoured parts of the North-West. Here was the site of the famous Bell Farm, now partly broken up, which covered an area of 100 square miles, being managed by a Company. The original capital was £120,000, and in 18S7 no less than 10,000 acres were under cultivation. The Bell larm was one vast wheat - held with furrows four miles long. To plough a furrow outward and another returning was a half-day's work for a man and team. The soil of this valley is very good, and a rich black mould has been found to extend many feet l)olow the surface. The general features of this district, especially on the eastern side, resemble those of Manitoba, but the land itself lies somewliat higher, as the second plateau or steppe is reached with its ' Api)ondix IX. 'V VII.] North-West Territories. 75 average altitude of 1600 feet. It is to this Province that a number of emigrants from Scotland and the East End of London were sent in 18S3, 1884, 1885. Still later in 1888 and 1889 about 80 families of crofters from the Hebrides were settled under a system of aided emigra- tion, each family receiving an advance of .£100 to .£120 to start with. Progress is very marked in this district, which will, sooner or later, attain to the dignity of a Province of the Dominion. Within twelve months a settlement can be formed and schools established on the wild and unoccupied prairies. ' The Government allow- ance is always liberal, and the arrangements are such that directly a district becomes even sparsely settled every child can find a school within two miles '.' To the north of Assiniboia district, and on either side of the Manitoba and North-West Kailway, the country is being rapidly developed, especially in the neighbourhood of Saltcoats and Yorkton. Here is a small colony con- sisting principally of small farmers or farm labourers from England, and numbering 340 souls, although the first settlers did not come till September, 1887. In the Saltcoats district there are also German and Icelandic colonies. Alberta. This district has an area of 100,000 square miles. It lies west and north-west of Assiniboia, and is bounded on the west by the Rocky Mountains. On the south both Assiniboia and All)erta are terminated by the 49th parallel of N. lat., the International Boundary Line. Alberta has, more than any other district of the North - West, attracted English capital and become the scene of English enterprise, for here the ranches are the best in Canada. The great characteristic of the climate is the ' Prof. Fream, * Agricultural Canada.' Publislu'd under the direction oftlio Government of Caiuida, 1S89. 1 'lij ill '!'■ I 'iiil !l ) ;;!i ■■:- ; 76 The Geography of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch. Chinook wind which blows from the west. ' The district of the Chinook wind- the country of the great cattle and horse ranches — extends from the International Boundary on the south to the Red Deer Kivor on the north, and from the Rocky Mountains on the west to Jibout 140 miles east. The foot-hills stretching for about twenty miles east of the mountains, are generally bare of trees, but in spring they are soft and green with the verdure of innumerable grasses, which, once the favourite food of the buffalo, are now as eagerly sought after by the cattle that have taken their place. This is the celebrated grazing countiy where, in the latitude of Labrador, cattle and horses range winter and summer without shelter. It is more than probal^lo that the farmers on the east side of the Rocky Mountains, especially those of Alberta, will find a steadily growing market, particularly for meat and dairy l)roduce, in British Columbia. From Calgary, the capital f Alberta, through the Rockies, the Selkirks, and the Cold Range to the Pacific coast is 36 hours' journey by the Canadian Pacific Railway, which should act as a line of distribution all along its route \' The district of SasJcatcheivan coimprises about 114,000 square miles. It lies to the north of Assiniboia and Albei-ta. As the branches of the great Saskatchewan pass through its valleys it has many fertile tracts which in course of time must be opened up and prove very profitable. Emigrants are now able tc travel from the Canadian Pacific Railway to Prince Albert by the Mani- toba and North-West Railway, and a line is in course of construction from Regina in Assiniboia, constituting two profitable arteries of trade in the future. The district of Athabasca has an area of 122,000 square miles. It is bounded on the south by the district ' ' Agricultural Canada,' 1 889. o ■f IT VII.] No rth- West Te rr 'dories. II of two ,000 strict of Alberta, westward by the Province of British Columbia along the 120th west longituile, on the north by the 60th parallel of latitude. The eastern boundary is. roughly speaking, the Athabasca River from the nortlu'rn boundary of Alberta to Athabasca Lake, and then the Slave River to the point where it is intersected by the 60th parallel of latitude. (3) Rivers. — The Mackenzie is the longest river in the great North-West Territories, and following its tribu- taries — the Peace River and Finlay — to the Rocky Moun- tains its length is about 2000 miles. This is as long as the St. Lawrence from its head -waters beyond Lake Superior. This is a country indeed of ' magnificent distances.' The Athabasca is also a tributary of the Mackenzie, rising near Mount Brown in the Rockies and flowing into Lake Athabasca. It is 900 miles long. The Slave Hirer carries the waters of Lake Athabasca to the Great Slave Lake and is 200 miles long. The Pelly, Yukon, and Great Fish River also belong to the Arctic system. The Sasliatchcwan. which flows into Lake Winnipeg and is connected with the Hudson's Bay system, has two branches, North Saskatchewan and South Saskatchewan. The north branch is 770 miles long, the south 800 miles. The sources of the Saskatchewan are near those of the Athabasca, not far from Mount Brown and Mount Hooker in the Rocky Mountains. The Bow River also, which is an affluent of the Saskatchewan, rises near a tributary of the Missouri which flows southward into the Mississippi. Within a short distance different waters rise which flo'SN northwards through the Mackenzie into the Arctic Ocean, westwards through the Saskatchewan into Lake Winnipeg, and thence by the Nelson into Hudson's Bay, and, south- ward, through the Missouri and Mississippi into the Gulf of Mexico. r^ 78 Til e Geography of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch. The Churchill Hirer risos in Saskatchewan Province and flows into Hudson's Bay a little north of the Nelson. Its length is 11 00 miles. The Coppermine liivcr rises in Point Lake and flows north into the Duke of York Archipelago and the Arctic Ocean. The Assinihoine rises in latitude 52'' N., longitude 103" W., and after flowing southerly about 120 miles winds to the East and, joining the Red River, flows into Lake Winnijieg, and so into Hudson's Bay. The Albany and Moose Rivers flow into the south-west side of Hudson's Bay. The Albany River is fully 450 miles long. On the east shores of Hudson's Bay there are a few rivers flowing from the direction of Quebec and Ontario pro- vinces, such as the Rupert, East Main Rivers — of no great size and length. To the north is Great Whale River, but the interior of the country does not resemble the great North-West. There is a large tract of country called the ' Barrens ' stretching across the northern parts of the continent. (4) Lakes. — TFo/?as/ow Lair. This lake is on the watershed and sends part of its waters northerly to Lake Athabasca and to the Mackenzie River, and part to Deer Lake on the south and so through Churchill River into Hudson's Bay. Ijiike Athabasca is 200 miles long. Great Slave Lake is situated between latitude 60° 40' and 63"^^ N., and longitude 109° 30' and 117° 30' N., its greatest length from East to West being 280 miles, and its greatest breadth 50 miles. It is frozen over for six months of the year. Great Bear Lake. Here in the north is almost per- petual winter, the line of grasses and grains has been passed at about 65° north latitude, and this lake is partly within the Arctic Circle. VII.] North- Wed Territories. 79 40 its land six I V^^' been irtly Thoro arc many smaller lakes, such as Trout Lake on the river Deor, a tributary of the Severn. Severn LttJce, on the Severn. Scttind Lake and Knee Lake on the Hayes River, flow- ing into Hudson's Bay near the Nelson. South Indian or Big Lake, and North Indian or Sandy Lake on the Churchill River basin. Baker Lake and Doohannt Lake are connected with the Chesterfield Inlet on Hudson's Bay. Becchj Lake, Lake Velbi, and Lake Maedovgall are in the Groat Fish River Valley. In the vicinity of Great Bear Lake and Great Slave Lake there are numberless lakes such as Lakes Tjiche, Gravelin, Sequin, Rey, Fabre, Aylmer's Lake, Artillery Lake, and many others, affording means of communi- cation through the country from Hudson's Bay to the Rocky Mountains. In fact, the whole vast region of the North- West is a network of lakes and rivers through which hunteis and roTjaijeurs have, little by little, found their way by well- known routes and ' portages. ' (5) Towns. — In the North-West Territories there are few towns or villages except along the line of the Canadian Pacific R'lilway, from the Manitoba frontier to the Rocky Mountains. Baitleford (Saskatchewan District) on the Battle River, near its junction with the North Saskatchewan, was formerly the capital of the North-West Territories, but its place has been taken by Begina in the Assiniboia district. Battleford is 300 miles distant from the Pacific Railway. The city of Begina is 356 miles west of Winnipeg. In 1882 the only sign of human occupation was three large canvas tents. Regina owes its sudden rise and importance to tiie Canadian Pacific Railway. It is the home of the Lieutenant-Governor of the North-West i^! ! : SI n \ ' 1 i'{ . ' 1 ■ 1 ii II i lit 11 1 i, it ' (So The Geography of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch. Territories, and the meeting place of his council, and the head-quarters of the Mounted Police. The city contained in 1 886 300 houses and about 1000 i)eoi)le. It now contains 9540 inhabitants. Here Louis Kiel, who headed a rebellion of Indians and French half-castes, was executed in 1885. The region round Regina and along the Qu'Appelle Valley was a favourite haunt of the buffalo in former times. The surrounding prairie is flat and for the most part treeless. Moose Jaw, Assiniboia, is 42 miles west of Regina, and bids fair to rival the capital itself. Medicine Hat is a station 300 miles from Regina and 2083 miles from Montreal. Lethhridge is on the Belly River in the south-western part of Alberta district. It is a busy town of 1000 in- habitants. From this point, 100 miles away, the great range of the * Rockies ' is visible, rising up from the immense level plains as land from the ocean. Near Leth- hridge the hills are crossed, dividing the watersheds of the north and south. Within a few hundred feet the waters here flow in opposite directions. Near Lethhridge, which is connected by a branch line with the Canadian Pacific Railway, extremely valuable coal mines have been dis- covered, of immense advantage to the Dominion. Formerly coal had to be brought to the districts of the North-West from Pennsylvania. Banff is a celebrated sanatorium in the midst of a ^reat National Park in the Rocky Mountains. Calgary, in Alberta, is 2262 miles west of Montreal, and is the great western outpost of the North-West Territories. Its beginnings do not date further back than four or five years. It is the rising town of the pro- visional district of Alberta, the great ranching division of the North-West. Other important towns are Saltcoats, Broadview, [Ch. id the ;ainecl now oucled icuted g the )iiffalo nd for a, and la and lU western 300 in- ; great >rn the L' Leth- j of the waters which Pacific en dis- ninion. , of the a ^reat antreal, ii-West jr back :he pro- division adview, II I I I llti i .':l ■' ' 1 11 '1' 1m III ! i 1; VIII.] British Colmnhia. 8i Ml Sunimeraborry and Indian Iload, Dunmoro in Assinihoia, Edmonton in Albortii north of Calvary, Prince Albert in Saskatcliownn, soon to be connected by rail with the main i-oute. (6) In addition to the abov(^ we mnst notice the Forts and Factories of the Hudson's Bay Company. The most important of these are: — (i) York Fort, Severn Faetori/, Halle's Factor)/, RuperCs Far fori/. Main Factory, and Moose Fort on Hudson's Bay and James's Bay. (2) Carlton House, Fort Edmonton, Fort Pitt, Cumberland House, Fort Mac Lead, Hamilton, Calgary in the Saskatchewan Basin. (3) Fort Simpson, Besolution, and Chippcwyan on the Mac- kenzie. The latter Fort was the starting-i)oint of the great explorer, Mackenzie. (4) Fort Belly and Fort Flliee nut far from the trading post of Qu'Ai)pelle, in the valley of the Assiniboine. A tract of country in the North-West which will probably be opened up shortly is the Peace River Valley. The navigation of the river opens and closes about the same time as the Ottawa. In course of time the Mac- kenzie River Valley, with its vast forests and other wealth, may be opened up and brought into commu- nication wuth the rest of the Dominion. it 1 \9. i CHAPTER VIII. British Columbia. m (i) Until recently British Columbia, which is the most remote of the seven Confederated Provinces of the Dominion, seemed to be cut off by the huge barrier of the o I ■ I- 1 i 1 ] 1 ; 1 f'' 1 i ''1 ; 1 1 1 ' Sz The Geography of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch. Rocky Mountains, but it has now been linked to the rest by the Canadian Pacific Railway. In natural features this Province differs from the others in a remarkable degree. Once past the Rockies, a different climate is felt on the slope of land which trends to the Pacific Ocean. Warm currents of air and ocean from the west come to the coast and keep the climate, especially in the maritime districts, mild and equable \ The northern limits of the grains and grasses extend up to Fort Liard and to the Yukon, almost under the Arctic Circle. South of the Boundary Line a region of summer droughts is reached. The tropic currents perform for British Columbia the same service which the Gulf Stream does for the British Isles and Norway. They enable vegetation to flourish at high latitudes. Lieutenant Maury has described the physical conditions which prevail along the western shores of North America. There are, he observes, two large currents of warm water, having their beginning in the Indian Ocean. One of them is the well-known MozambiqiT^ current, called at the Cape of Good Hope the L'Agulhas current. Another of these warm currents from the Indian Ocean makes its escape through the Straits of Malacca, and, being joined by other warm streams from the Java and China Seas, flows out into the Pacific, like another Gulf Stream, between the Philip- pines and the shores of Asia, Thence it takes the great circle route for the Aleutian Islands, tempering climates towards the north-west coast of America. The winds also passing over its waters carry warmth in winter far inland to the Rockies. Between the physical features of this * the Black Stream ' of the Pacific, and the Gulf Stream of the Atlantic, there are several points of re- semblance. Sumatra and Malacca correspond to Florida and Cuba, Borneo to the Bahamas. The coasts of China 1 See p. 83 of ' Guide Book for Settlers,' Ottawa, 188 a. VIII.] British Columbia. «3 answer to those of the United States, the Philippines to the Bermudas, the Japan Islands to Newfoundland. As with the Gulf Stream, so also with this China current, there is a counter current of cold water between it and the shore. The climates of the Asiatic coast correspond with those of America along the Atlantic, and those of British Columbia, Washington and Vancouver resemble those of Western Europe and the British Isles. (2) The climate of British Columbia may be classified as insular, semi-continental, and continental. The first variety is found in Vancouver, Queen Charlotte Islands, and along the broken coast-line ; the second between the Cascade Eange and the coast ; and the last on the plateaux between the Cascades and the Rockies. The climate of the coast regions is like that of the British Isles. Here the southern wind prevails, laden with moisture from the ocean currents, resembling the Gulf Stream winds which sweep over England from the south and south- west. East of the Cascade Range, which is the lesser division of the country, the variations of heat and cold are greater, and droughts frequently prevail. But British Columbia is naturally free from the extremes of the North-West Territories, and also from the fogs and the cold mists which descend on the eastern shores of North America from Baffin Bay, and make the exposed parts of Newfoundland and Nova Scotia cold. On the Pacific side of Nt)rth America there are no great reservoirs for ice and icebergs as in Baffin Bay on the east. Behring's Strait is a comparatively shallow and narrow outlet com- pared with Baffin Bay, and the drift of the ocean currents is toivanis, rather than from, the Arctic Circle. Moreover, the long projecting shores of Alaska, which are con- tinued for a long distance by the broken Aleutian group, form a natural breakwater to shield the coasts of British Columbia from the rigours of the north. G 2 84 The Geography of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch, f (3) The fishing grounds of the North Pacific are espe- cially prolific off Queen Charlotte Islands, the Skeena River and Stikeen River, and testify to the fact that the cold currents, which are best suited for fish, prevail here '. Following the line of the coast, the climate of Victoria in British Columbia has been described as being beyond comparison the best suited to the taste of the English on the Pacific coast. * It has all the sun and none of the evening fogs of San Francisco ; the blue sky without the rain of Portland ; snow close in sight on the tower- ing Olympia range, and yet it is never cold ; hundreds of miles of inland navigation, fish at all seasons, sea and land otter, deer, elk, beaver, mink, marten, silver and sable fox, and the finest grouse shooting in the world.' (4) Boundaries and Area. — British Columbia is bounded on the north by the 60th parallel of latitude, west by Alaska and the Pacific, south by the 49th parallel or United States boundary, and east by the Rocky Moun- tains. In virtue of a well-known decision, the line between Vancouver and Washington runs through the Haro Channel and the San Juan Archipelago. This archipelago breaks up the main channel into three straits. (i) The Rosario Strait on the east ; (2) the Douglas Channel in the centre ; (3) the Haro Strait on the west. The United States, therefore, gained the control of the coast and islands from the east to the Haro or Western Channel. The area of this Province is 341,305 square miles, or nearly three times the size of the British Isles ^. (5) Mountains. — The main mass of Vancouver Island is a partially submerged mountain chain, the highest peak of which, Mount Arrowsmith, rises to the height of ' Appendix X. ^ yue p, 7 of ' Official Handbook,' 1890. VIII.] British Columbia. i^S nearly 6000 feet. It is continued to the south in Wash- ington Territory and to the noith in Queen Charlotte Islands. The range is precipitous and descends abruptly to the coast. On the mainland there are four ranges ', (i) The Coast or Cascade Range, which is in reality a prolongation of the Sierra Nevada of California. It com- mences above New Westminster, and extends jDarallel with the coast as far as Mount Elias. (2) The Gold Range. (3) The Selkirks, with their extensions north and south. (4) The vast range of the Rocky Moun- tains. At certain intervals there occur the following well- known gaps through the Rockies: — Twenty miles north of the Bouiv^ ry Line the Koo- tenay Pass traverses the Rocky Mo ains. The waters of the Belly River upon the cast and those of the Wigwam River upon the west have their sources in this valley 6000 feet high. Fifty miles north of the Kootenay, the Kananaskis Pass cuts the three parallel ranges which traverse the Province running north and south. The height of land is 5700 feet. Thirty miles to the north is the Vermillion Pass, 4900 feet. Twenty miles further still the Kicking Horse Pass, 5210 feet'^, utilised by the Canadian Pacific Railway. The Howse Pass, 4500 feet. The Leather Pass (Jasper's House, or Yellow Head), 3760 feet. The outflow of all these passes, with the exception of the Yellow Head, seeks on the east the river system of the Saskatchewan and on the west the Columbia and its tributaries. The Yellow Head on the other hand sends Hi ' Appendix XI. ^ See p. 342 of Hayden and Sohvj'n's ' North America.' i .l K I I:: ! i I 1 , li !i 1 i 1 1 1- i i 86 The Geography of the Canadian Bomiinion. [Ch. its dividing waters into the Athabasca on the east and into the Fraser Kiver on the west '. (6) Rivers. — In the Island of Vancouver there are no navigable rivers, those that exist resembling \\ inter torrents flowing with great velocity from the mountains and high ground of the island. On the mainland the most important rivers are : — The Peace River, formed by the waters of the Findlay and Parsnip Rivers in the Rocky Mountains, near the sources of the Skeena. It finds its way through the gorges of the mountains eastward by the defile known as Peace River Pass, and flows across the great North American plains until it reaches Lake Athabasca. It was along the valley of this river that Mackenzie, the intrepid explorer of the Mackenzie River Basin, found a route to the Pacific Ocean over the Rocky Mountains. Gold is said to be found in the Peace River Valley, at Omineca and along the western slopes of the mountain range, and the whole course lies within the grain and grass-bearing zone, which reaches its highest latitude here. Of this river Sir W. Butler has written : ' Unlike the prairies of the Saskatchewan, the plateau of Peace River is thickly interspersed with woods and thickets of pine and poplar. Its many lakes are free from alkali, and the willows affords sustenance to the moose.' The river is sharply furrowed and so deep that sometimes it seems to fill up the entire bottom of a narrow valley through which it runs. More frequently a wooded ter- race lies between the foot of the ridge and the brink of the water. The soil is a dark sandy loam, the rocks are chiefly lime and sandstone, and the numerous slides and huge landslips along its lofty shores render visible strata upon strata of many coloured earths and layers 1 Butler's ' Wild North Land.' i^^ VIII.] British Columbia. 87 of rocks and shingle, lignite and banded clays in rich succession. A black bituminous earth in many places forces its way through rock and shingle and runs in long dark streaks down the steep descent. Even when April comes the river lies in motionless torpor solid with its weight of ice four feet in thickness. Then comes the sudden break up and the irresistible rush of waters. Where the Peace River passes the Rockies the valley is about two miles wide, the river 250 to 300 yards wide. The gorge is one of magnificent beauty, with the 'glittering crowns of snow' 8000 feet above and the 'wide beautiful valley almost filled by the river, tranquil as a lake and bearing on its bosom, at intervals, small inlets of green forest.' The scenery is, perhaps, more beautiful than the dizzy glory of Shasta and the precipices of Yosemite. The Skeena flows westward into the Pacific, and is ascended for some distance by steam vessels from Na- naimo, in Vancouver Island. It is one of the routes to the Omineca gold mines. The Nasse is at the extreme north, near the Alaska boundary, and flows out at Observatoiy Inlet. It is navigable for twenty- five miles, and its valleys are be- lieved to abound in gold. The shortest route yet sketched out to the Pacific is by the Yellow Head Pass, along the valley of the Eraser River and thence northward to the Skeena Valley, and down that valley to Port Essington, or crossing over to the Nasse Valley and down to Eort Simpson near its mouth on the sea. The route of steamers would then be along Dixon Channel, north of Queen Charlotte Island, and in the future such an alternative route may be adopted. The Findlay Biver, called after a fur-trader, has many large tributaries. It is something like a huge right hand spread out over the countiy, of which the middle 88 The Geography of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch. ■I ii finger would be the main river and the thumlj the Omineca. ' There is the North Fork which closely hugs the main Kocky Mountain Range. There is the Findlay itself, a magnificent river, flowing from a vast labyrinth of mountains, being unchanged in size or apparent volume 1 20 miles above the Forks we had left. . . . The Omineca lay before us stretching to the westward amid cloud-capped cliff's and snowy peaks, known to the gold seeker but not accurately. It is but one of that score of rivers which 2500 miles from these mountains seek the Arctic Sea through the gateway of the Mackenzie'.' The Frascr llivcr rises near the Yellow Head Pass, not far from Mount Hooker and Mount Brown and the sources of the Athabasca, and flows northward first of all, until it breaks through the Cariboo mountains near Fort George. Turning suddenly to the south, it passes through that part of British Columbia which lies be- tween the Cascades and Gold and Selkirk Ranges, and is the chief river of the district. The Cariboo plain is a promising agricultural district '". Great Columbia Hirer. The Canadian Pacific Railway crosses the Rocky Mountains at 'the Kicking Horse Pass.' At the summit of this pass is a lake, whose waters drain in two directions, eastward by the Bow River into the South Saskatchewan and then into Hudson's Bay and ultimately the Atlantic, and also westward to the Columbia River, and so to the Pacific. Here, in these Alpine regions, are the sources of the Columbia River, which, after a great bend round the Selkirk Range, flows south into the Pacific in Oregon (United States) territory. It is deserving of note that the Yukon in Alaska, the Fraser, the Skeena, the Colorado, and the Columbia, are the only considerable rivers in North 1 Butler's ' Wild North Land.' '^ Appendix XII. ^T VIII.] British Columbia. 89 America west of the Rocky Mountains whicli find their way over the western plateaux through the gorges of the intermediate mountain ranges to thi3 Pacific Ocean. The great loop of this river round the Selkirk Range has been called the 'Big l)end of Columbia.* The region thus included is rich in minerals, timber, game, and fish. Out of its district no less than £10,000,000 worth of gold has been procured. The Canadian Pacific Riiil- way, instead of following the course of the Columbia River, cuts across the Selkirk Range by some very skilful engineering. The Tliompson liivcr, a tributary of the Fraser, upon which the town of Kamloops, meaning in Indian lan- guage ' the junction of the waters,' is founded, is a note- worthy river. In crossing the Rocky Mountains and traversing British Columbia, the railway engineers have made use of a series of deep canons. At the summit of the Eagle Pass begins the Eagle River, and the rail- way follows it down till it reaches the Shuswap Lake. ' This is a most remarkable body of water. It lies amongst the mountain ridges, and consequently extends its long narrow arms along the intervening valleys like a huge octopus, in half a dozen directions. These arms are many miles long, and vary from a few hundred yards to two or three miles in breadth, and their high, bold shores, fringed by the little narrow beach of sand and pebbles, give beautiful views. The railway crosses one of these arms by a drawbridge at Sicamous Nar- rows, and for fifty miles it winds in and out the bending shores. This lake, with its bordering slopes, gives a fine reminder of Scottish scenery \' The Eagle lUver flows into the Tliompson River and the Thompson into * See p. 41 of 'A Canadian Tour,' by the London 'Times' Cor- respondent, 1886. J I M 1 t f"m I; ' I ; 90 The Geogra2)hy of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch. the Eraser, and it is along the valleys of these rivers that the railway is constructed. (7) Coast-line.— The coast-line of British Columbia, owing to its broken character and the number of islands that adjoin the continent, is unusually long. It measures no less than 7000 miles, a distance equal to twice that of the British Isles, and is most beautiful and pic- turesque. This is the description given by the Earl of Dufferin in 1876 : — ' Such a spectacle as this coast-line presents is not to be paralleled by any country in the world. Day after day, for a whole week, in a vessel of 2000 tons, we threaded an interminable labyrinth of watery reaches, that wound in and out of a network of islands, promon- tories, and peninsulas for thousands of miles, unruffled by the slightest swell from the adjoining ocean, and pre- senting at every turn an ever-shifting combination of rock, verdure, forest, glacier, and snow-capped mountains of unrivalled grandeur and beauty.' (8) Lakes. — In the south Lakes Kootenay, Okanagan, Upper and Lower Arrow, Shuswap, Harrison, and Lilloet. In the centre Quesnelle, Horse Fly, Cariboo, Cross, Babine, Tacla ; in the north Stuart, Thutage, Dease. But of course the lake and river system of this country cannot compare with (i) the St. Lawrence ; or (2) the Mani- toba ; or (3) the Mackenzie. However, from its natural harbour advantages and diversified coast-line there is an easy access from one end to the other, which compensates for the difficulties of travel in the interior. (9) Forests and timber. - The great currents of westerly winds blowing across the Pacific, strike upon the coasts of British Columbia and Alaska. These winds are laden with moisture gathered in their course over the sea, and discharge it in copious showers upon the land. Wherever they touch North America we find magnificent VIII.] British Columbia. 91 woods antl forests. More than half the area of British Columbia is covered with the finest trees in the world. For hundreds of miles the valleys are densely wooded, and gigantic pines and huge cedars clothe the sides of the mountains, even up to the regions of eternal snows. The king of the British Columbian pines is the Douglas fir, which rivals the Weymouth species of New Brunswick, on the east coast of North America. Under the name of the Oregon pine it is a most valuable article of commerce. It frequently grows 300 feet high with a diameter of eight to nine feet. The white-cedar is a well-known forest giant of the Fraser Valley, and on Vancouver a species of oak grows plentifully. Amongst other trees are the hemlock, maple, and arbutus. Burrard Inlet is the centre of the British Colum])ian timber trade, and is only a few miles distant from New Westminster. It is nine miles long, and is fep vvA safe. The total annual produce is estimated at 200,000,000 feet of timber. (10) Population. — The population of British Columbia, including Vancouver Island, is calculated to be 100,000, including 25,000 Indians and 7000 Chinese. However, the country is filling fast, and in 1888 no fewer than 11,000 fresh immigrants settled there. In the cities of the coast large numbers of Americans are to be met with, and the dollar is the usual currency. The Chinese immigrants are more numerous here than elsewhere in Canada, and the character of a Pacific seaport is semi- oriental. In the interior chiefly arc found the 25,000 Indians, who are kept in ' reserves ' or ' locations.' European settlers must recollect that the mainland of British Columbia, apart from the sea-board, is divided into three sections, each differing from the other two in its climatic and geological features, (i) From the Fraser Eiver to Yale Eapids is the 'New Westminster,' or settled district ; (2) from Yale to Alexandria, the Simil- ! ' i t 1 i 1 t 1 II 9 3 The Geog7\q)hi/ of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch. kameen district ; (3) from Alexandria to the Kocky Moun- tains, called the Lilloet-Clinton district. (i 1 ) Towns.— The principal cities on the mainland are Vancouver (12,000), the terminus of the Canadian Pacific Railway, and New Westminster (5000). Kamloops has a population of about 700, and is the entrepot of a fine ranching district. Yale is a settlement of about 1000, and is built on a comparatively level place amongst the mountains. Just here the railway, which has j^assed over 600 miles of mountain work since it entered the 'Rockies,' comes into the more fruitful and level valley of the Fraser River. Lytfon is a small town built by gold-miners at the junction of the Fraser and Thompson Rivers. Amongst other towns and settlements on the mainland are Pemberton, William Creek, a gold centre, Hoj)e, Quesnelly, Barkerville, Okanagan. Before this country, which has been called, not inaptly, the 'England of the Pacific,' a great future is opening out. With its wealth derived from rich gold mines, forests, and fisheries, it must become rich and attract from all quarters an enterprising population. fi i|j{i:ii Vancouve7' Island. (12) Divisions. — i. Victoria; 2. Saanich Peninsula; 3. Tooke ; 4. Cowicham ; 5. Salt Spring Island ; 6. Nanaimo ; 7. Comox and Nelson. The area of the island is about 16,000 square miles, or 10,000,000 acres. Of these divisions Victoria and Cowicham and the Saanich Peninsula are best suited for farming purposes. (13) Towns. — Victoria, situated at the extreme south- east of Vancouver Island, originally the depot of the great Hudson's Bay Company, has a population of 1 5,000. It is l. [Ch. Moun- [liiiland iiiadian amloo2)S »ot of a It on a Just iiiles of les into iver. at the ainland , Hope, inaistly, opening mines, I attract ninsula ; xnd ; 6. ■e miles, aria and uited for le south- the great 50. It is mm \m To ftico patfe 9;i m IX. Oxford l/niveraity -Press. IX.] Nevifoundland. 93 distant 70 miles from Now Wostminstor, and hotwccn 700 and 750 mllos from San Francisco. ' Its narrow harhour, which is scarcely so largo as Huskisson Dock, Livorpool, is rock bound, and surrounded by the most charming miniature bays, exhibiting grassy knolls, and lusro and there evergreens in all the luxuriance of tropical foliage. A river opening out above the town invites the visitor to a boating excursion ; the fresh green of the grassy reaches which stretch into the bay, the rocky promontories, the snow-covered mountains, combine to form u landscape which deeply impresses itself upon the stranger fresh from the waves of the ocean or the sombre fir-hills of Oregon and Washington.' Eaquiniaitlf is noted for its nuignificent harbour, and is distant three miles from Victoria. This har- bour is thirty-six feet deep, and almost land-locked, and is an imperial naval station of the North Pacific squadron with a magnificent graving-dock for refit- ting. Nanaiwo (5000), sixty-five miles from Victoria, has also a good harbour. It is the headquarters of the deep- sea and whale fisheries, and is a thriving coal-mining town. CHAPTER IX. I^eiifoundland. (i) Newfoundland is an island off the North American coast, lying between the parallels of 46" 36' 50'' and T"^ 94 The Geograpliy of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch. 51° 39' north latitude, and the meridians of 52° 37' and 59° 24' 50'' west longitude. Boundaries. — It is bounded on the north-east and south by the Atlantic Ocean, on the west by the Gulf of St. Lawrence and the Straits of Belle Isle. Extent. — Its length from Cape Kay to Cape Norman is 317 miles, and its breadth from Cape Spear to Cape Anguille is 316 miles. With it must be reckoned the dependency of Labrador, eitending from Anse Sablon in the Straits of Belle Isle to Cape Chudleigh, latitude 60- 37'. Population. — In 1884 the population was found to number i;;7.539, of whom nearly 100,000 lived in the Peninsula of Avalon. (2) The following is a description of the island given by a recent writer in the 'Nineteenth Century' Magazine, December, 1888: — ' The island is larger than Ireland ; the greater portion of it is covered with thick and almost impenetrable forests of spruce and pine-trees, interspersed with birch, larch, and poplar. The forests give way occasionally to open spaces known locally as Barrens. They are covered with a dense carpet of mosses, which, in places, attain a depth of from one to two feet. There is a great variety of mosses, and some of them are of much beauty. Long trails of stag's-horn moss strike the eye amongst the velvety greens and deep olives, and the delicate grey and intricate tracery of the reindeer-lichen gives a pleas- ing contrast of colour and form. Besides mosses the barrens are rich in l)ilberries or hurts, partridge-berries, swamp-berries, and berries of various other kind:i m extraordinary abundance . . . Innumerable lakes, or as they are called in Newfoundland ponds, are thickly dotted over the country, and though there is nothing that can be called a mountain in the island (the highest m ! IX.] Neiofoundlan d. 9.^ gi'ey elevation being only 2400 feet), there are hills from onv of which no less than ^80 lakes or ponds have been counted. Large rivers traverse the island in various directions, but none are navigable for any distance, for craft larger than a canoe, as they are broken by falls and rapids and soon become shallovv\ The two principal rivers are the Humber, running west into the Bay of Islands, and the Exploits, which falls into Notre Dame Bay, to the north-east.' (3) General features. — The geography of Newfound- land is almost entirely the geography of a sinuous and broken coast-line. Everywhere this coast-line is deeply indented with bays and inlets of the sea, and there is scarcely a village in the island which has not a close access to the sea. Perhaps no country in the world has such a coast-line in proportion to its size. In the inte- rior there are several hills stretching across the island in a north-easterly and south-westerly direction, at whose bases are low and undulating valleys full of lakes and ponds. Here and there are isolated peaks or ' tolts ' rising up to a height of 2000 feet. The highest land is on the south and west. The poorest land is on the east and south, and the best nearer the north, where the largest lakes and finest timber are found. (4) Climate. The clinuite of Newfoundland varies very much. At St. John's, on the extreme east, where the Peninsula of Avalon stretches far out into the Atlantic, the weather is cold and chilly, being affected by the Arctic curnnit flowing down laden with ice from Batlin's Bay. As this icy current meets the warm waters of the Gulf Stream, it meets and creates vapour which lies ui)on the eastern sea-board in a dense and thick fog, making the navigation off the Newfoundland banks diflicult and dangerous. The fogs rarely extend inland for a distance of more than fifty miles, and the climate on the west i i ■ ^ i i ;ii: !i 96 The Geography of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch. coast is fnirly equublo, far more so than in most portions of the Canadian Dominion. The thermometer in Avinter seldom falls below zero, and rarely rises to 80'^ in summer. The mean temperature for the whole year is about 43', the mean height of the barometer about 29'^ 40' \ (5) Soil. — The best soil is found at the heads of the bays and inlets, as Gander Bay, the Bay of Exploits, on the shores of Red Indian Lake, the Bays of St. George and Port-a-Port, and in the valley of the Humber River, where the best timber grows. The Laurentian system is the lowest and oldest, and spreads over two-thirds of the island ; the Carboniferous is the highest series, and is found on the western side, and here and there are seams of coal. The primordial Silurian rocks are found only in isolated i)atches ; the Huronian system prevails on the eastern part of the island. The following is the order of the formation : — (i) Carboniferous, (2) Devonian, (3) Middle Silurian, (4) Lower Silurian, (5) Huronian, (6) Laurentian. Although it does not exist in large (quantities, still there is gold, found in quartz veins, and associated with iron ore ; silver, both native and asso- ciated with galena, copper ores, coi)per in various forms, galena, plumbago, iron ores of great variety, marble and limestone, slates, and building stones of every material. Copper is perhaps the most plentiful metal. (6) Capes. — On the east Cape Primavista, said to have been first sighted in 1497 by Cabot ; Cape Francis, once called Cape de Portogesi, showing by its name, as well as that of Portugal Cove, that the Portuguese had fisheries here. Cape Spear, in the Peninsula of Avalon at the en- trance of the magnificent harbour of St. John, on the east ; Cape Race, so well known as one of the first points of land seen by outward-l)ound steamers, Cape Pine on the ' St'o paper by tho Ilonouniblo Mr. Justice (now Sir Robert) Pinsent, road before the Royal (joloiiial Institute, April, 1885. IX.] Nei vfoundlan d. 97 have once ell as leries le en- east ; ts of n the south ; Capes Ray and Anguille at the extreme south- west ; Cape Norman on the north at the entrance of Belle Isle Strait, and on the eastern side of Pistolet Bay, Cape Bauld. In such an island as Newfoundland, with its unparalleled coast-line, the minor heads and promontories are almost innumeral)le. Peninsulas.— (i ) That of Avalon, with a veiy irregular coast-line, joined by a very narrow isthmus of a few miles in width, with Placentia Bay on one side and Trinity on the other. (2) The Northern Peninsula or Petit Nord of the French. (3) Port-a-Port on the w^est. Bays. — On the eastern side, Conception, Trinity, Heart's Content, Bonavista, Goose, Freshwater, Hall, Green, Canada and Griguet Bays. On the north. Sacred, Ha Ha, and Pistolet Bays. On the south, Trepassey, St. Mary's, Placentia, For- tune, Connaigre, Hermitage, Despair, and White Bear Bays. On the west, St. George's, Port-a-Port, Bay of Islands, Bonne, St. John's, St. Margaret, St. Barbe Bays. (7) Islands. — On all sides of Newfoundland there are a large number of snuiU islands, especially in Bonavista and Notre Dame Bays on the east, St. John's and the Bay of Islands on the west, and Fortune and Placentia Bays on the south. Belle Isle is the most northerly ; and St. Pierre, Great and Little Mi(|uelon, which latter belong to the French, and are used as depots for their fishing fleet, are the most southerly. The Cabot islands are a barren group on the west side, to which a name has only been recently given by the Newfoundland Legislature, on the occasion of the erection of a lighthouse. This is the only place in Newfoundland where the name of tlie great explorer has been preserved. St. John's Harbour, lying to the north of Cape Spear, u 1!" h 98 The Geography of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch. is the neiirest port of call from Europe, and must be distinguished from St. John at the mouth of the St. John River, New Brunswick, with its population of 44,000. This patron saint was popular in Canada, as Prince Edward Island was originally called St. John, and north of the city of Quebec there is a St. John District. (8) Straits and Channels are veiy numerous in New- foundland, and they are called by many different names, e. g. tickle, gut, sound, run, passage, reach, partly accord- ing to their size, the ' tickle ' or ' run ' signifying the narrow, tortuous channels through which the tides run swiftly. On the east coast the Baccalieu Tickle is between Baccalieu Island and the mainland ; Chandler's Reach is at the entrance to Clode Sound, Willis Reach between Willis and Cottel's Islands, Trinity Gut between Lewis Island and the mainland in Bonavista Bay, Dildo Run between New World Island and the mainland, Long- Island Tickle between Long Island, Triton and PilleyV; Island in Notre Dame Bay. On the south, Colinet Passage between Great Colinot Island and the mainland. Eastern Passage and Western Passage between Dead Islands and the mainland. On the west, Main Gut, St. George's Bay, and Belle Isle Straits between the Great Northern Peninsula and Labrador. Isthmuses. — (i) Avalon, between Trinity and Pla- centia Bay. (2) New Bay, between Bay of Exploits and New Bay. (3) The Gravels or Isthmus of Port-a-Port, connecting the Peninsula of Port-ii-Port with the main- land. Bivers. — The rivers of Newfoundland are very nume- rous, but none of very great importance. The Gander and Exploits rivers empty into Notre Dame Bay ; St. Si'l!: IX.] Newfoundland. 99 I5olle and s Pla- and Port, iiain- lume- ander St. John's into the harbour of that name ; the Diklo and Black Brook into Trinity Bay ; the Humber Eivor into the Bay of Islands. It has been said that to enumerate all the rivers and lakes in the island would fill a book, the number being prodigious. One quarter of the surface of Newfoundland is covered by fresh-water lakes and ponds. Much of the interior of the island is still un- known. It is a paradise for the fisherman and sportsman. (9) As afield for emigration Newfoundland offers room for farm-labourers. Her soil is fertile enough to keep an agricultural population. As a mineral-bearing coun- try she is rich and capable of development. The deposit of gypsum is enormous, and building slate, granite, lime- stone and marble abound. At the heads of the great lakes in the interior there is said to be 3,000,000 acres adapted for settlement and cultivation, where there are large areas of fine timber land. There are many ways in which the fishing industries can be made more pro- ductive even than they now are, and employment found for more fishermen. For fishermen, miners and agri- culturists Newfoundland is a country which, only 1 700 miles distant from the nearest shores of the British Islands, holds forth many attractions. Hitherto the great stream of emigrants bound for more distant Trans- atlantic abodes have passed it })y. (10) Newfoundland is useful to us as a nursery for sea- men. Her rough weather and difficult coast navigation call into play the best kind of seamanship. The number of able-bodied fishermen is about 30, 000 \ The number of sailing vessels cleared at their ports in 1882 was 1 107, their crews numbering 7200 ; the number of steamers cleared during the same year was 176, with crews num- bering 6568. Amongst such a population as this would ' See Paper by Sir Robert Pinsont, 1885. H 2 100 The Geografly of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch. m ; ii ! •' bo found a nucleus of a strong naval force ready, in case of emergency, to defend their own or British shores. The average annual value of the fisheries is as follows ' : — Cod fishery Seal fisliory Herring fishery Salmon fishery Lobster fishery All other fish §6,034,242 1,026,896 581,543 J 14.505 104,184 40,000 l7. 901,370 (or ^1,646,118). (11) Government. — Responsible, ( i) with a Governor at the head appointed by the Crown. (2) Executive Council of seven members. (3) Legislative Council or Upper House of fifteen members, chosen for life. (4) House of Assembly of thirty-one members, elected every four years by the people. The judges are generally appointed for life. Electoral Districts are ten in number. In the centre, (i) District of St. John's, (2) Ferryland. In the north, (3) District of Conception Bay, (4) Trinity Bay, (5) Bonavista Bay, (6) Twiilingate and Fogo. In the south, (7) District of Placentia, (8) of Burin, (9) Fortune Bay, (10) Burgeo and Lapoile. These districts are not mapped out with any regu- larity, and little account is taken of the interior, which is virtually unoccupied. The Newfoundlanders are de- prived of the control of over one-third of their coast- line on the west and north by the claims of the French. The * French shore ' is the great and open grievance of the colony, and interferes greatly with the progress of the island '. (12) Religion. — There are of the (i) Church of Eng- ^ Paper by Sir Robert Pinsent, 1885. ' Appendix XIII. IX.] Neivfoundland. lOI land, 69,000 ; (2) Wesleyan Methodists, 3;l,ooo ; (3) Church of Eome, 64,000. Tho iiuinbor of churches is about 250 \ Education is purely denominational, and is repre- sented (i) by five Higher Schools or Academies, (2) Com- mercial and Elementary Board Schools, (3) Colonial and Continental Church Society Schools, (4) Institutions of the Christian Brothers. The Public Debt of Newfoundland is very small, and does not exceed £.2 per head of the population ^ Direct taxation is unknown, and even the municipal works of St. John's and the large towns are under the Board of Public Works. (13) Telegraph. — Newfoundland is noted as being the first place where the project of the submarine cable was conceived and carried out. The first idea was not a Transatlantic cable, but a short line connecting New- foundland with Cape Breton, and so reducing by tuo or three days the period of communication between England and New York. The first section of the designed cable lay across the island between St. John's Harbour and Cape Race before it entered the sea. Just at this time (1852) a United States naval expedition was surveying, by means of deep-sea soundings, the bed of the Atlantic Ocean, and between Newfoundland and Ireland they dis- covered the existence of a plateau which seemed expressly designed for the wires of a sulmiarine cable. After four repeated trials, the oceanic cable was successfully laid down by the Great Eastern, in 1866. The shore end of it is situated in Heart's Content Bay, a small inlet in the wider reaches of Trinity Bay, on the eastern coast. This was the beginning of the system of ocean telegraphy which, spreading in every direction over the world, and ' Seo Paper by Sir Robert Pinsent, 1885. ^ Ibid. i B t I03 The Geography of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch. bringing eveiy nation within sper distance, is effect- ing a revolution, not only in ,.,'neral ideas of the day, but also in the operatic . war, commerce and diplomacy. CHAPTER X. Industries, Wealth, and Social Progress. (i) The above are in brief outline the bare geographi- cal details of the Canadian Dominion, and of Newfound- land, but they fail naturally to convey in themselves an adequate idea of the wealth and enterprise of the 5,000,000 people who have made these countries their home. A brief glance at the results already gained in the various dei)artnients of industries will show that the Canadians have already developed in a remarkable way the resources of their country. In other colonies, such as Natal and the Cape Colony, the presence of an ovenvhelming native i)opulation brings with it a large number of responsibilities and many administrative problems. In Canada there is now no native question to embarrass the politician, nor has the country to grapple, as the Republic on the south, with the negro difficulties. For in the more Southern States of the Union emancipation has brought in its wake a kind of social revolution which threatens in course of time to be of a serious nature and introduce class animosities in a free Republic. Happily for themselves the Cana- dians can boast of a comparatively unembarrassed poli- X.] Indudries, Wealth, and Social Progress. 103 tical existence. The pioblems they have to face are not those of a struggling and anxious comnumity, hut re- late chiefly to the development of the land and its wealth. (2) Agriculture is a leading industry of Canada, and to prove how much the colonists grow in excess of their own requirements we learn that in 1887 they exported i; 8, 600, 000 worth of farm produce. During this year the number of cattle alone exported was 1 16.274, of which 63,622, valued at £1,000,000, were shipped to Great Britain. There is no cattle disease in Canada, largely tln-ough the precautions of the Department of Agri- culture. The cattle themselves are of good pedigree stock from the old country and show no signs of deterioration. The herds of Shorthorns, Jerseys, and Herefords will bear comparison with those of England, which of all countries on the globe is rightly considered to be the best adapted for cattle rearing. In dairy-farming ', a very important branch of industry, great progress has been made of late years in Canada, and the best American cheeses are admittedly Canadian. Poultry raising has gradually been developed by a thrifty farming population, more numerous and more widely dispersed than in any other colony, as has already been pointed out, and it is calculated that poultry to the value of .£21,780 and thirteen millions of eggs were exported in 1887 to the United States. The fruit and vegetables of the Dominion are too well known to need noticing here, and whilst the climate is singularly adapted to English fruits, such as peaches, apples, strawberries and currants, it is also favourable to many crops which are raised with diffi- culty in England. Melons ripen as a field crop, and tomatoes are so plentiful that they sell for less than 2.9. a bushel, while in various localities, such as County Essex ' Appendix XIV. 1 I, ■' 1 1' 1 ;■■ 104 The Geograjyhy of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch. on tho shores of Lake Erie, there are vineyards resem- bling those of France. The account given of the common cereals shows that the Dominion is par excellence the country for them up to high latitudes. (3) Generally speaking, mixed farming is carried on, the growing of grain and fruit, stock raising and dairy farming being all combined in a greater or less degree. The best immigrants undoubtedly for Canada are small farmers, with a small amount of capital ranging from £500 to .£1000. There exists also in the Dominion a special Department of Agriculture, with a member of the existing Cabinet at its head; and, in 1887, legisla- tive authority was obtained for the establishment of five government experimental farms in various parts of the Dominion to test the capacity of soil and climate— one at Ottawa, for the convenience of the Provinces of Ontario and Quebec, a central institution, one at Nappan(N. S.) for the maritime Provinces, one at Brandon for the Prairie Provinces, one at Indian Head for the North- West Territories, one at Agassiz in British Columbia, from which the most profitable results may be obtained. The Agricultural College at Guelph in Ontario has long been known as the Canadian Cirencester, and there have not been wanting men like Principal Sir W. Dawson and Professor Macoun, and others, who have by their world- wide learning contributed largely to the science of agri- culture. The meeting of the British Association at Mon- treal in 1887, in itself a kind of Pan- Anglican conclave for the advancement of science, afforded abundant proof that the range and application of modern science, espe- cially with reference to agricultural chemistry, was being indefinitely advanced in the Dominion. Sir Charles Lyell has written in his ' Travels in North America,' p. 5 : — * In the course of this short tour I became convinced that we must turn to the New World if we wish to see I ll X.] Indudries, Wealth, and Socud Progre.ss. lo.', in perfection the oldest monuments of tiie earth's history, so fjir at least as relates to its earliest inhabitants. In no other countiy are these ancient strata developed on a grander scale or more plentifully charged with fossils. and, as they are nearly horizontal, the order of their relative position is always clear and unequivocal.' Moreover, as if to show that the wonderful prairies of the North are practically inexhaustible for the uses of man. it has been pointed out by Professor Macoun that even those plains where alkali is found, and for a long time regarded as i)rofitless, will become the most valua)>le of the wheat lands as settlement progresses, the alkali being converted into a valuable fertiliser ])y the ad- mixture of barn-vard manure '. (4) Forestry. — In connection with agriculture anti husbandry comes the science of Forestry. To conserve the existing forest wealth of the Dominion, to thin out, plant, and exi)eriment should be one of the chief tasks of the Department of Agriculture. Nowhere in the world has Nature been more prodigal in her gifts of the forest than in the Dominion. Although there are many durabh' woods in South Africa and Australia, still they require protection. In the settled parts of Australia, and in Cape Colony tree-planting has gradually jjecomo a state necessity. In the latter country, European occupation has too often been followed by veldt fires, which have destroyed in a short time and with terrilic destructive- ness the scanty growth of hill and valley. Consequently the surface of the earth has been exposed to the dis- integrating action of sun and rain, the hills have been quickly denuded, and, literally speaking, the ribs of the earth seem to be exjiosed. Evaporation takes place quickly and the rain clouds become scarcer and scarcer, ' See ' Official Handbook,' published by the Department of Agri- culture, Canada, October, 1S88. I 1 1 '5 ' lit !l! i ! Ml )i 106 The Geography of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch. and the increased radiation from the earth is destructive to natural orj^anisnis. The water-courses run diy and drou^lits set in with all their concomitant miseries. In Canada the earth is sheltered and screened from the heat of the sun by means of its forests, rivers never run dry there, and the accumulated mould of ages lies numy fathoms deep upon the surface. Rarely do poisonous and deadly malarious exhalations arise from the earth which are so fatal in more southern latitudes of North America and other Colonies, and the Canadian Dominion seems like a providential and beneficent extension of the temperate zone for the welfare of the northern races of Europe. At the same time the Canadian forests are a very rich mine of wealth, always encouraging a whole- some and vigorous occupation for lumberers and axe- men. It is estimated that Canada exports 700,000,000 feet of timber for the United States market — a significant fact in itself — and a similar amount for England, South America, and Australia. To carry on this trade an army of 30,000 men are employed at the rate of 5s. a day. In the Quebec Province there are 100,000 square miles of timber territory awaiting purchase. To the North-West, and esjiecially beyond the Forks of the Saskatchewan, immense areas of forests are still to be opened up as the tide of immigration rolls forward, and the means of cheap transit are provided. The Government holds a pro- prietary right over these timber lands, and leases them for a general term of twenty-one years to the highest bidder. The conservation of forest wealth should be one of the first cares of Canadian statesmen. (5) Fisheries. — Passing on to the fisheries we shall find that here too the Canadians have at hand an im- portant supply of wealth which they are developing with increasing perseverance. From the Arctic regions e t X.] Tiuhidrics, Woilth, and Social I'l'otjrenn. 107 le shall an im- ^eloping regions the currents are always bringing down a food-supply for tlio fish, especially along the eastern coasts. This is described as ' living slime formed of myriauls of minute creatures which swarm in the Arctic seas, and are deposited in vast and ever-renewed (quantities upon the fishing grounds.' In addition, the fresh-water iisheries in a country so com})letely honeycombed with lakes as the Canadian Dominion, ar<^ of gn^at importance. It is approximately estimated that the value of the home consumption in 1887 was worth £2,600,000, which to £3,400,000 worth exported and sold on the Dominion markets, gives a total of .£6,000,000. (6) Further, it is calculated that the Canadians posseas a fleet of 7294 vessels, 1198 steamers with a total net tonnage of 1,217,766. Assuming tlie average value to be £6 per ton, the value of the registered tonnage would be £7,300,000. It must be noted that about seventy per cent, of the sea-borne trade was under the British flag. On the Pacific sea-board there are not wanting signs of a growing traffic, and of trade com- munication with the countries of the east and with the Australasian colonies. This trade carries with it great opportunities of expansion. As in agriculture proper, and in forestiy and lumber- ing, this shii)ping industry re-acts most favourably upon the physique of the nation. It is different indeed from the existence of a South African and Australian miner, and in some respects is hard and i)erilous ; but there is a healthfulness in the sea breezes, rough as they are at times, which toiler and digger in search of gold jilong a malarious belt of country can never realize. The moral effect also of Canadian industries, compelling as they do the colonists to live apart, and in widely sei)arated regions, is healthy and sound. (7) Manufacture. — Since 1878 the development of \ i III f! 11 i 1 J ■ 1 08 f-'ie Geography of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch. manufactures has been more marked tLan dur'nr any previous period in the industrial history of Canadu The statistics of the increase in the capital invested show the advance that took place in the decade from 1871-1881 '. 1871. 18S1. Capital invested . . . .£1:;. 500,003 i'33. 000,000 Hands employed , . . 187,000 ^54,000 Amount of yearly wages . . £8,170,000 «,i;! ,000,000 Total value of articles produced £44,100,000 £61,000,000 A partial investigation made in 1884-5 indicated that in the older provinces there had been an estimated in- crease of 75 per cent, in the number of hands employed (over the 1878 estimate), in the amount of wages paid, and in the capital invested, while the value of the goods l)roduced had just doubled itself. Yet these manufac- tures are only in their infancy. For considering the prospect of their development it is necessary to glance at the resources Nature here again has i)laced at the disposal of the Canadians. In nearly eveiy Province iron has been discovered and coal-fields of immense area are being worked in Nova Scotia — most conveniently placed on the Atlantic highway — in the North-West Territories, and also in British Columbia, here again placed most conveniently on the Pacific highway and the road to the east and the native markets. Whether for purposes of coaling war vessels or for the more peaceful object of HUi)plying merchant steamers, the fields are equally useful. In addition petroleimi is known to exist in several parts of the Dominion, and wells have been worked most profitably in Ontario where the production is very large. It is stated that in the North-West very extensive sources of petroleum have been discovered, and a railway is projected to connect them with the Canadian Pacific. What were formerly considered to be the gloomy regions ' See p. 19 of Official Handbook,' 1890. X.] Industries, Wealth, and Social Progress. 109 of the north, therefore, may be gradually illuminated by light and fuel, and Nature provide for men a suitable compensation. In the North- West Territories anthracite and in all the provinces excellent peat is found. With reg.ard to another motive power useful for the purposes of mankind, viz, that of water, it is evident that the Dominion is more favourably situated than any other colony. In the first place, perhaps no country has, from its natural configuration and extensive coast-line, greater facilities for utilising tidal action, the rise and fall of the tidal wave being, especially in the Bay of Fundy, a most remarkable phenomenon. The water-power aiforded in the interior is absolutely limitless, and a glance of the mighty rush of Niagara conveys an idea of the storage of force beyond and above the Falls. The Falls of Niagara are a symbol of that Titanic and ever-present power, which can be made to subserve the services of man in the smallest as well as the greatest things. The Canadian saw-mills are at once the most extensive and best ai>pointed in the world. It is a wonderful sight to see a log taken out of the water by an automatic process, placed in position under the saws, and speedily reduced to inch boards. This summary process of reducing to boards in a few minutes a giant pine which has taken more than a century to grow is a triumph of the mechanical skill of mankind. (8) Eevemie and Expenditure. — The consolidated revenue for the year ending June 30th, 1888, was made up as follows ' : — Customs Kxciso Other sources X4,42 2,ooo 1,216.000 1,746,000 £7,384,000 the expenditure for the same period being £7.343,000, ' See p. 17 of 'Official Handbook,' 1890. 11 i WF' ii I I ' no The Geography of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch. leaving a slight balance in hand. It will be noticed that considerably more than half the whole Revenue was derived from Customs. Taxation as represented by Customs and Excise amounted in 1888 to i:^, 635,000, or 23s. 3f?. per head, as compared with 405. 6d. in the United Kingdom, 2 7.9. 8(/. in the Cape of Good Hope, and 6 IS. Sd. in Australasia. The public debt on July ist, 1888 was l'56,902,ooo : and deducting the assets of .£9,996,000 this sum is reduced to £47,006,000, or about £9, 13,9. 1 cr?. per head of the population. It may be re- marked that at the time of the Confederation of the Pro- vinces (1867) the net debt was only £ 1 5, 1 45,000. Within twenty years, therefore, it has been more than trebled. But this fact need not cause any apprehension when we consider that the debt has been mainly incurred for the sake of facilitating communication between the Provinces by means of liailways, and for the general improvement of the country by reproductive public works. The country which the Canadian Pacific Railway has thrown open to colonization is practically limitless, and the new townships and settlements carry with them the germs of a greater prosperity. England has l)een the money market from which the colonists have l)orrowed, and the total amount of debt payable in England on June 30th, 1888, was .£35,320,000, and the several investments for sinking funds amounted to about .£4,198,000. That the Cana- dian Dominion investments are considered safe and secure is evidenced by the comparatively low rate of interest on which the Government can borrow. The average rate of interest paid on the gross debt in 1888 was 3-12 percent.' At the time of Confederation the Provincial debts were taken over by the Dominion Government. The result of this simple transfer of liabilities to the Central Government was very satis- ' Suo p. 17 of 'Official Handbook,' 1890. X.] Industries, Wealth, and Social Progress. iii factory, this Government being able to exchange the high interest-bearing bonds of the provinces for their own bonds at a lower rate. (9) The accumulated wealth of the country may be shown in the statistics relating to banking. The increase in business in twenty-one years, between 1868- 1889, will be found to be very large \ 1868. 188i». Assets . . . jf 15,500,000 ^51,153,000 Liabilities . . 8,700,000 35,012,000 Deposits. . . 6,500,000 24,731,000 Notes in circulation 1,600,000 6,441,000 Discounts , . 10,000,000 37,891,000 In 1868 there was no reserve fund, but in 1889 it reached the sum of .£3,993,000. Altogether the paid-up capital invested in banking on May 30th, 1889. was £12,000,000. 'In addition to the ordinary chartered banks there are the Post Oifico and Government Savings Banks, the deposits in which have increased from .£300,000 in 1868 to .£8,000,000 in 1888, the number of depositors l)eing now estimated at 120,000, an undeni- able sign of the prosperity of the working classes in Canada since Confederation. These estimates do not include the deposits in one or two chartered Savings Banks or investments in the various Loan, Friendly and Building Societies, all of which show great develop- ments ^' The condition, however, of a country which l)<)asts of 13,000 miles of railway, an unrivalled system of canals, a mercantile marine ranking fourth in the world, and a growing poi)ulation of 5,000,000 cannot but be prosperous in the highest degree. (10) With regard to immigration, it is a well-known fact ' See p. 27 of ' Official Handbook," 1890. * An' Official Handbook of Information,' published by the Govern- ment of Canada, 30 October, 1888. Ill' I '\i I b :i i r / 1 fl w 1 1 ( 1 lii kL i 112 The Geography of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch. that Manitoba and tlio North-West Territories ?re being • [uickly filled up both l>y immigrants from England and settlers from the Eastern Provinces. To get on quickly many colonists from the older and more cultivated regions of Canada follow the well-known advice, and 'go west and grow up with the country.' The Government themselves have aided and systematized immigration by every means within their power. Lands are surveyed, official descriptions given, and full information l>oth in England and Canada supplied to the intending settler. The township in Manitoba and the North-West Ter- ritories presupposes a complete and accurate survey of the country from the International Boundary Line northwards. The unit of the townshii)'s survey is the statute mile or section of 640 acres, all the townships being made six statute miles or sections square. The section of 640 acres is divided into half-sections of 320 acres, and quarter-sections of 160 acres. A settler may obtain a grant of 160 acres of land free on condition of three years' residence and cultivation, and payment of an office fee amounting to .£2, or otherwise at the upset price of 'S>s. or 10.9. per acre. The townships are arranged in their running from south to north, and starting from the southern frontier which is on the International Boundary Line. These tiers are marked on the map with ordinary numerals, thus, I, 2, 3, 4, &:c. Further these townships are grouped in certain ' ranges ' or large sections, running from east to west, divided by lines called ' principal meridians.' The first })rincii)al nu'ridian starts from a point on the International Boundary Line about eleven miles West of Emerson between 97^ and 98" W. longitude, and is extended northwards. The second starts from 102° W. longitude, the third from 106" W. longitude, the fourth from no" W. longitude, the fifth from EST. N9tO. To face pag'e WZ THE TOWNSHIPS OF THE 103 Lontfitude West IQg of Creetiv Oxfbrd Uni.versUy Prrs HIPS OF THE NORTH-WEST. N9lO. ude West IDS of Oreenwich. 101 Oxfbrd, University Press . w i ■ I X.] Industries, Wealth, and Social Progress. 113 ii4°W. longitutle. &c., &c. These ranges include tlioiv- foro four degrees of longitude in each case. From the first principal meridian, which is a kind of Greenwich, and the point from which to calculate, the ranges naturally fall into two hemispheres, those on the East and those on the West. The advantages of this simple method of division, aided so materially by the level surface of the country and a wide unobstructed horizon for hundreds of miles, are numerous. In the first place there is no danger of confusion and encroach- ment, so often arising in new countries from the shifting and alteration of cairns and beacons. In the North- West Territories the surveyor having been beforehand with the occupier, the ordinary course of events has been re- versed. The occupier can at once recognise by a reference to the map the nature and limits of his little freehold of 160 acres'. The surveyed lines are marked on the ground itself by iron and other kinds of monuments or posts at the corners of the divisions and sub-divisions: and as soon as the settler makes himself acquainted with these, he \vill instantly understand the position and ex- tent of his own farm on the prairie, or of any other in the country. Or, when travelling in any part of the countiy, these posts will tell him at a glance exactly where he is, so that he cannot get lost upon any surveyed district. The Government surveyor has in fact left an accurate and trustworthy sign-post behind him, wherever the scene of his operations has been laid. Moreover, distances on the map may be calculated with very fair accuracy by the simple method of counting the number of six-mile townships East or West, North or South. The boundaries of these six-mile townships are all laid out according to the cardinal points of the *■ See Map of the North-West Torritorios with Land Regulations, published by the Department of Agriculture, Ottawa, 1886. I If; 1 14 The Geography of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch. P I' ill m W \i I 1 ' m ' 1 compass, North, South, East, and West. The section can therefore be divided and described as having a North- East, North-West, South-East, or South-West quarter. (11) Tlie transfer of property, it is needless to say, is made with the utmost speed and simplicity. There aro no mouldy parchments to unfold, no ancient title-deeds to consult, no greedy lawyer's fees to pay. A Deeds' Eegistry Office does the transfer for the colonist, and the expense of transfer to the first holder is only nominal. The emigrant does not need a very large amount of capital to begin with. The German Mennonite families began life in the North-West on an outfit of only ^£54 each. A sum of ^£150 is calculated to carry the emigrant family through the first year with a moderate degree of comfort, but they ought to be accustomed to farm work. There is no better opening in the world than here for the agricultural colonist who desires to be a freeholder as quickly as possible. With respect to the population that a townshii^ of six square miles is supposed to carry, it is clear that under the favourable conditions of soil in the North-West it will in the future be very large, even if we allow the low average of 100 persons to the square mile. The township is a kind of parish in itself, and is the unit of colonial society. Public provision is made in these sections for the purposes of education, and natu- rally the section will be utilised for all purposes of local and municipal rating. It will be noticed that the prin- cipal meridian lines do not exactly tally with those of the Provinces, such as Manitoba, and those of the judicial districts, as Assiniboia ; but in course of time for the sake of exactness and clearness tlie Provinces may pos- sibly have their boundaries determined in the North- West by these meridian lines. Thus, the double divi- sion of boundaries, namely, that adopted to separate the Districts and Provinces and that adopted to organise and X.] Industries, Wealth, and Social Progreaa. 115 IS , it is 11 the if we mile. is the ftde in natu- locate the constant supply of settlers, may disappear from the map altogether. The township of the Far West is in itself a wonderful example of orderly colonisation, and of nineteenth-century enterprise. It may seem uniform and stereotype, and slightly h eking in the elements of picturesqueness, but it secures comfort and plenty to the homes of thousands. (12) Unlike the early settlements along the Alleghaniea and the coasts of Maine, the victims often of religious Township Diagram. 640 Acres. N. 1 Mile Square ...3'i... — ] — ...30... ...32... ...33.-- ...28... ...21... ...i'6... ...34... ■ ■■ip--- ...S6... Scliool ...29... Lands ...27... H.B. ...26... Lands ...25... W, ...19... ...18... ...20... ...22... ...23... ...24... ...17... H.B. ... 8 ... Lands ...15... ...14... ...I3..- ...7... ...9... ...4... • .. 10... School ...II... Lands ... 2 ... ...12... ..6... ... 5 ... ...3 ••• ... I ... E. persecution at home, and the victims oftener of French reprisals and cruel Indian outrages, the township of the North-West grows up in peaceful and undisturbed pros- perity, the x>rotcg6 of two paternal governments. Unlike, again, the homestead of the Virginian planter, with its dark defilement of slave labour, and the gloomy memories of the Middle Passage, the North-West township grows up with clean hands, and an untarnished heritage. No I 2 I H S'l 1 2'i II ' ii6 The Geograj)hj of the Canadian Dominion. [Ch. cruelty has stained its annals, no native war defaced its growth, no revolution marred its fortunes, no class hatred and religious higotry made coarse or bitter the passions of the occupants ; it rises as a full-grown community upon the level plains, full of promise and a rich prairie instinct with destiny ; a second Acadia with an un- encumbered heritage, and an assured i)osition in the world. (13) No question of naturalisation arises in connection with the emigration of British subjects to Canada, and settling in the Dominion makes no more change than a removal from York to London, Kent to Suffolk. But if an emigrant removes to the United States he has to take two oaths, one of intention and one of fact, the latter after five years' residence. The effect of these oaths is to renounce allegiance to the Queen, and surrender the British birthright. The postal system of Canada extends to every village and hamlet in the land, and is remark- ably cheap. In course of time there may be a universal penny postage between the mother-countiy and her co- lonies, and a link of union created between the poorer emigrants and their relations which does not exist at present. The Money Order system is similar to that in operation in England, and the price for orders locally ranges from 2 cents (id) for ids. to 50 cents (2.9. id.) for £20. The Telegraph system is worked at a veiy moderate rate, some of the wires being in the hands of Govern- ment, and the telephone is used perhaps more in the Canadian than in English cities. Newspapers are to bo found in almost every village of considerable size, and they are supplied with full telegraphic reports from all parts of the globe. All important news that transpires in the United Kingdom and Europe is instantly published in Canada ; and, in fact, owing to the difference in mean time, an event which takes place in London at 5 p.m. X,] I i\!)r(ij)/iy of the CiDKiduin Domluion. [Cn holds u power ov«'r p«*rMons prol'cssinj^: its fiiilli. Tim prinoipnl roli^jfiotis (Icnoiuiiiiilioiis or(*im:i(lji iiro — Iv'oinnn ('iitltolics nuiiilx'riii}^ about \,'ji)\,i)^2 Clinrcli of Eii^ and r)')o.r..n MclhodislH 7(.H/)O.S I'rcshylorijuis 6()7,.jf»o IJnptisls 29i,i.;0 Cou^ropilioMiil isis 27,000 Tho lu»iiian Calholic, hcIiooIh o\v<^ llu>ir cxisloiicc l(» llic ijonorosily ol'llio Koiiian Calliolic clor^y. Tlio professors arc nearly all eccleHiusiics, ami are <'onieii(, lo rectMve as reiiiniieratioii I' 10 per atiiiiiin. This explains (lie low lees paid )>y pupils lor l»(»are(' (i'»7H), and is maintained hythal Itody wiih(»u( help from, the State. Tin* two K''<'«'>t keynotes of Canadian hist(U'y are piditical liJK'rty and relij;ious toleration, and it is the leIy and thorou^ddy in the Dominion. In the Military C'olle>;e at Ivinfjjslon, the Canadian Sandhin'st, tiM^ <'adets r«*ceiv«i a careful and accurate training; in accordance with tin* spirit of a conidry which in the |)ast has proved how strong' and true the martial character of its sons can he. 'IMiere are still some vetei-ans of the \>>\2 war aliv<» in the conidry, ans proves the aptitude of lh(M'olonists for arms, even when their services are not impressed. 'I'Iim supply of sailors for \i «'olonial navy, hoth on the east and west coasts, is practically unlimited, iind in due coursly of \V('s{ (iiMc I iin«l Xl I ii(/i(fi. Wrii/l//.y nnviil (l('|t(»ls, iirs«>nals. jiud IriiiiiiiiL!; Hlii|>s. sr* (lull hyscii iis well .Msliy I.Mini lln< ('jiiDHli.iii colitiiiMls will iiinl<>i'I.Mk<> I ln« dill it's (if s««ir-d. mikIiT lli<> miid.'iMcc (tf skilled ;in di'iiiiiiidrd ol" i\\\ llu' inlmhilmds liolwccu llic Ji.i^'rs of <"iHli|,M.ii iiiid sixly, it is no| likely llial lioiioiiraMe iiiili- lary I radii ions will l>e allowed lo di(« out. To prove jilso liow valiialde I lie lisliiiiL;^ indnslry is n>urarded as a inirMery I'or a navy, il is well known lliai llit> I-'rencli (Jovernnienl have always vei'e (dimale. imisl L^ive urealer skill and hardihood lo Iheirsaihtrs, and kee|> lip Iheir an«'ienl spiril. l''iom siniilai' inolives. Ihe Adniiraliy al home have encoin'ai^tMl in pasl, times llie Polar expedilions ;md llie search for Ihe Norlh-W'esf i'assa^e. It is. p(>rhaps. (o Ihe more peaceful arts of hnshaiidry in all its hranches I ha I IheCanadiati ()ovennn(>iil have lur'iiod Iheir ar lar;j;e niimhers of (*aiiadian pupils, who hy means of Iheir careful iuu\ special ediicalion keep up Ihe name of Ihe (/anadian farmers. In addilion lo lliis ('ollep> there is Ihe central experinit>nlal farm at Ollawa, as well as I hose already in(>idioMed ai Nap|>an in Nova Scol ia : itiandon in Manilolta : Indian Head in Ihe Norlh West Terrilory ; A^^Missi/ in Mrilish Columhia. In I'lii^land we have such cenh'es as ('ir<>nc«>sler and Downltui ('olle;4es, where Ihe [M'nctici^ and th<jects taught. For this a veiy good text-book has been adopted. Besides these there are the high, or as we should call them, the grammar schools, in which the classics and modern languages are added to the course taught in the primary schools. Then there are the various colleges, which in a large degree were fostered by the various denominations. Each Province has several such institutions, which are officered by men of noted talent in their particular l)ranches, and many of them by men of world-wide reputation. Some evidence of the work done by these institutions may be found in the great spirit of religious toleration which is evident in all ' Soe ' Canadian Lands and their Development.' Proceedings of the Royal Colonial Institute, vol. xx. [Ch. X.] Industries, Wealth, and Social Progress. 123 X have Com- those tained in the overn- edto. lercial to the t-book or as h the ourse the ed by veral noted m by f the the in all ugs of parts of Canada. The Toronto University is composed of the various sectarian colleges, including the Catholic one, and the same is the case at Winnipeg University, which is also an amalgamation of all the sectarian colleges of Manitoba, all of which work together as one University under the Presidency of the Bishop of Rupert's Land. In the Arts Faculty of Toronto no fees of any kind are exacted, and in most of the colleges of the Dominion (as in the case of the high schools where fees are exacted) they are only nominal. The Faculties in connection with Toronto University, and those of M^Gill University at Montreal, will compare favourably with those of the old Universities of the older world. Sir Daniel Wilson is the President of the Toronto Uni- versity, Sir William Dawson of the M^Gill University, and Dr. G. M. Grant of the Queen's University at Kingston ; and it is sufficient to mention their names to show that too much has not been claimed for tlu- institutions over which they preside '.' ' ' Canadian Lands and their Development.' Uoval Colonial Institute, vol. xx. Proceedinss of tlu 1 .i '% I'i 1 1 lll^ii i APPENDICES. 6. 7. 8. iJ. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. Tlie three Prairie Steppes of the North-West (p. 4). Louisiana and de hi Salle (j). 10). "ZfofT'^f :• "' ^'""^ °' "^^ ^^^P«^^-" -^ Con,n.,a tionofPopuhation in Colonies (p. 13). The Prairie Soils (p. 25). The Dyked Lands of Nova Scotia (p. 55). The Intervale Lands of New Brunswick p. 64). The Farms of Prince Edward Island (p. 65). The Rocky Mountains (p. 6S). Districts and Sub-districts of the North-West ,p. 74) Fish and Fisheries of British Columbia (p. 84) Mountain Ranges of British Columbia (p. 85). ' Agricultural Districts of British Columbia (p. 88) The French Shore in Newfoundland (p. loo). Dairy Farming in Canada (p. 103). Wr APPENDIX I. li'^ I'l !i Bl!H w The three Prairie Steppes of the North -West. The following is a more particular account of the three roniarkable prairie steppes reaching from Winnijieg to the Rocky Mountains, and causing the ground to rise slowly west- wards : — 'The lowest and most eastern prairie level is that which includes the Red River Valley and Lake Winnipeg with its adjacent lands on the west. The average altitude of the plain is about 800 feet, the surface of Lake Superior being 627 feet above the sea ; its width on the 49th parallel is only 52 miles, but its average breadth exceeds 100 miles, and its area is about 56,000 square miles of which one-fourth is water. A great part, of it is more or less densely wooded, particularly that part adjacent to the lakes. The southern part, extending southward from Lake Winnipeg, includes the prairie of the Red River with an area, north of the 49th latitude, of about 6,900 square miles. This steppe is bordered on the east by the Laurentian plateau, and on the west by the first escarpment which is ascended in the neighbourhood of Macgregor, 80 miles west of Winnipeg. This escarpment, where it crosses the 49th parallel, is known as Pembina Mountain, and, trending north-west, its line is marked by the Duck, Riding, Porcupine, and Basquia Hills which lie to the west of Lake Winnipegosis. The superficial deposits of the first stejipe are chiefly those of a former great hike, called Lake Agassiz, in the deeper waters of Avhich was accumulated the fine silty material now covering the Red River Valley, and constituting a rich loamy soil of unsurpassed fertility. The valley itself is about 40 miles wide, and extends along either side of the river froiu north to south of the Province of Manitoba. Its surface is perfectly flat and un- diversified, " the most absolutely level prairie region of America." •When the summit of the first escarpment is reached, in the Appendix I. 12' I, in the neighbourhood of Macgregor, a vast open country called tlif Great Plains, forming the second prairie steppe, is entered upon. On the 49th latitude this second steppe is 230 miles wide, while further north its width is not more than 200 miles. The surface of the second prairie steppe is not so even as that of the Red River Valley and is covered with thick deposits of drift, consisting chiefly of detritus worn from the soft under- lying rocks, but mingled with other mineral rubbish trans- ported from a distance. From the prairie level there arise in certain localities low hills, such as Turtle Mountain and the Touchwood Hills, composed of accumulation of drift materials similar to those of the Missouri Coteau on the west, the latter being a huge glacial moraine. Turtle Mountain nowhere at- tains a height of more than 500 feet above the prairie. It is 11 region of broken hilly ground about 20 miles squan?, is thickly wooded, and hence presents a marked contrast to the general features of the prairie. The average elevation of the second stepi)e is about i6oo feet, and it is bounded westward by the remarkable physical features known as the Grand Coteau or hill-slope of the Missouri, which is chiefly a great mass of glacial detritus and ice-travelled blocks, resting upon a sloping surface of rocks of Cretaceous age, and extending diagonally across the central region of North America, from south-east to north-west, for a distance of about 800 miles. On the 49th parallel, near the 104th meridian, the Coteau is 30 miles wide, and it broadens out somewhat as it is traced northward, east of Old Wives Lakes, to the South Saskatchewan. It is then con- tinued to the north by a range of high lands, of which the Eagle Hills constitute a part, to the elbow of the North Saskatchewan .... The Coteau belt is particularly destitute of drainage valleys, hence the waters of its pools and hikes are charged with salts, particularly magnesium and sodium sul- phates. The western part of the Coteau contains deej) valleys with tributary coulees which are mostly diy, or else occupied by chains of small lakes which dry up in summer, and then leave large white patches of efllorescent salts .... The Missouri Coteau, which is perhaps the most remarkaljlo monument of the Glacial Period now existing in the western plains, is about 400 miles west of Winnipeg and fringes the eastern margin of 1 2^ TJie Geography of the Canadian Dominion. W li!! tho third and highest prairie stoppo, which extends with a j^entle ascent westward, to the base of the Rocky Mountains. 'The third steppe, lyinjr west of the Cotean, has a much thinner covering of drift deposits, a good deal of which consists of fragments of quartzite from the Rocky M(»untains. Its (!astern part presents in places thick deposits of true tilt or boulder clay. Its surface is more worn and diversiHed than is the case with the first and second steppes, and, as the Rockies are approached, it is found to consist of fragments of quartzite with softer shaly and slaty rocks and limestone. In various localities boulders are numerous, and some of these have been used in modern times by the buffalo as rubbing-stones, and are surrounded by basin-shaped depressions formed by the feet of these animals. The average altitude of the third stejipe is about 3000 feet, though its eastern edge is generally a little over 2000 feet, whilst it attains an elevation of over 4000 feet at the base of the Rocky Mountains. Its area, including the high land and foot hills along the base of the mountains, is about 134,000 square miles, and of this by far the greatest part, or about 115,000 square miles, is almost devoid of forest, the wooded region being confined to a small area of its northern and north-western extension near the North Saskatchewan River and its tributaries. Its breadth, on the 49th parallel, is 465 miles, but it narrows rajiidly northwards. The total area of prairie country between the parallels named, including that of all three steppes, may be estimated at 192,000 square miles. Underlying nearly the whole of the prairie region are clays, sandstones, and limestones of Cretaceous age or (in the more western jiarts) shales and sandstones of the Lignitic Tertiary group, the age of the latter being probably inter- mediate between that of the Cretaceous and of the Eocene of England. The nearest panillel to be found at home is afforded by the greater part of the counties of Norfolk and Suffolk, where Cretaceous rocks (chalk in this case) are overlaid by glacial detritus or drift.'^Extract from ' Agricultural Canada,' by Professor Fream. Published under the direction of the Department of Agriculture, Canada, 1889. -»♦- Appendix II, III. T29 APPENDIX II. Louisiana and de la Salle. Louisiana was so named after Louis XIV of France, by tie la Salle the French explorer, who in 1682 descended the Mississippi to its mouth. De la Salle returned to France after his discovery, and with the help and countenance of the French Court arranged the details for a French colony on the coast of the Gulf of Mexico. In July, 1684, a fleet of four vessels with 280 persons, of whom icxj were soldiers, 30 volunteers, 6 priests, set sail from Kochelle. The fate of this colony was a miserable one. The store ship was wrecked— a great loss in those days when infant settlements depended on the mother country for supplies— de la Salle failed to find the mouth of the Mississippi, and the settlement, after lingering out a miserable existence for two years, came to an end, do la Salle losing his life at the hands of his associates. In spite of its splendid beginnings, the colony was neglected by Louis XIV, who was engrossed at homo in that miserable policy which led to the Revocation of the Edict of Nantes (1685). Moreover the French enteiiirises in the Gulf of Mexico had always incurred the enmity of the Spaniards, who regarded this sea as a mare claustim. It has been suggested that if any considerable number of French Huguenots had been allowed to settle in the valley of the Mississippi, with leave to worship God in the way they wished, a great French Empire might have arisen in Louisiana and Texas. APPENDIX III. Herman Merivale and causes of the Dispersion and Congregation op Population in Colonies. Mr. Herman Merivalk, in his lectures on Colonisation and Colonies delivered before the University of Oxford (1839,40, 41), has pointed to several natural causes which make for T I ! i 130 The Geo(j7\(phy of the Canadian Dominion. concentration in new countrieH, p. 276. 'The causes which increase to its niaxinmni the natural tendency to dispersion are, a wide extent of fertile soil, a wholesome climate, the absence of dc^nse forests, and other natural obstacles, and the want of navigable rivers, upon the banks of which men are usually inclined to settle themselves in communities.' In North America it has been the presence of so much fresh water that has helped dispersion of poj^ulation. It has been com- paratively an easy task for the wandering colonist or pioneer to shift his home westwards, and the nature of the occupations both of fur hunter and lumberer have taken them to distant parts of the Provinces. It is a curious fact that Quebec, which commands a nuignificent position on the St. Lawrence, and is the oldest city of the Dominion, should number only 65,000 out of a population of 5,000,000. Montreal (202,000) has of course largely taken her place, but the population is not centred there to the extent we might have supposed. i APPENDIX IV. The Prairie Soils. ' A SOMEWHAT common error made in this country, concerning Manitoba and the North-West, is to su])pose that the soils covering that vast area are all alike. Such is not the case. In the Red River Valley may be seen one of the finest soils in the world, whose fertility is beyond all question. Along the route of the Canadian Pacific Railway, between Moose Jaw and the Saskatchewan River, there is a large tract of land which does not seem to offer much inducement for arable cultivation, although I was informed that it resembles the extensive sheep runs of Australia ; and it is not unlikely, therefore, that it may become utilised for summer sheep-grazing, as the herbage is undoubtedly veiy nutritive. The area of which I speak is, in fact, the northern limit of what are called the " bad lands" of the United States ; in other words, the Great American Desert. This region extends over considerable portions of the States of Appendix IV. 131 Nebraska, Colorado, Wyoiiiinf:^ and Utah between the latitude of Santa Fe (36" N.), and that of Cheyenne (41 T N.), and between the meridians of 99° and 1 11° W. Much of it is occupied with the " bad lands ; " 11 nd it is these, with their arid climate and scant vegetation, which impart the desert character. They also extend around the Uinta Mountains, in latitude 41°, due east of Salt Lake; City, and in this locality were traversed by the orif^inal settlers in that city befont their eyes were gladdened with a sight of the " promised land." It is these " bad lands " — so extensive in the States— that cross the inter- national boundary south of the track under notice, and, rapidly decreasing in breadth, at length die out altogether as they are traced northward. But, indejjendt'ntly of this region, there are oceans of land of excellent fertility awaiting cultivation, and I proceed to refer to the composition of some of the prairie soils of Manitoba, the remarkable richness of which arises from the accumulation for ages pa.st of the excreta of animals, the ashes of prairie fires, and the decaying remains of plants and animals in a loamy matrix, resting upon a retentive clay subsoil. In 1884, Sir John Lawes, F.K.S., and Dr. Gilbert, F.R.S., the famous agricultural investigators of Kothamstead, Hertfordshire, i)ub- lished the results of some analyses they had made of four sami^les of Manitoba soils which they comi)ared with typical English soils. The samples came respectively from Niverville, 44 miles west of Winnipeg; from Brandon, 133 miles west of Winnipeg ; from Selkirk, 22 miles north-east of Winni]>eg, and from Winnipeg itself. These soils showed a very high per- centage of nitrogen ; that from Niverville nearly twice as high a percentage as in the first six or nine inches of ordinary arable land, and about as high as the surface soil of pasture- land in Great Britain. That from Brandon was less rich, still the first twelve inches of depth is as rich as the first six or nine inches of good old arable lands. The soil from Selkirk showed an extremely high percentage of nitrogen in the first twelve inches, and in the second twelve inches as high a peicentage as in ordinary pasture surface-soil. Lastly, both the first and second twelve inches of the Winnii)eg soil were shown to be veiy rich in nitrogen, richer than the average of old pasture surface-soil. Commenting on their results, Sir John Lawes K 2 132 The Geography of the Canadian Dominion. and Dr, Gilbert state that, whilst official records show that the rich prairie soils of the North-West are competent to yitdd large crops, yet, under present conditions, they do not give yields commensurate with their richness compared with the soils of (jireat Hritain, which have been under aral)le cultivation for centuries. This is due partly to scarcity of labour, absence of mixed farming, burning the straw, and deficiency of manure. Three other surface-soils were examined by Sir John Lawea and Dr. (Jilbert. No. I was from Portage la Prairie, 56 miles west of Winnipeg, and had probably been under cultivation for several years, the dry mould containing 0*247 1 V^^ cent, of nitrogen. No. 2, from the Saskatchewan district, about 140 miles from Winnipeg ; its dry mould contained 0'3027 per cent, of nitrogen. No. 3, from a spot about 40 miles from Fort Kllice, might be considered a virgin soil : the dry mould con- tained 0*2500 per cent, of nitrogen. In general terms, these soils are about twice as rich in nitrogen as the average of the Rothamstead arable surface-soils, and, so far as can be judged, are probably about twict; as rich as the average of arable soils in Great Britain.' — Extract from 'Agricultural Canada,' by Professor Fream. Published under the direction of the Depart- ment of Agriculture, Canada, 1889. APPENDIX V. The Dyked Land.s of Nova Scotia. 'The climate of Nova Scotia, and its extraordinary grass- growing capacity, at once indicate its adaptability both to grazing and dairying purposes. Its wonderful salt marshes merit a brief notice. Much of the soil along the Bay of Fundy consists of rich iMurine alluvium. The configuration of this bay is such that it pn^scnts, southwards to the open ocean, two coast-lines, those of Nova Scotia and the mainland, receding from each other at an acute angle ; consequently, when the north-flowing tidal wave enters the bay it finds its lateral extension gradually contracted, and so its waters get piled ur Appendix VI. ^33 Farmers along the lower reaches of the Severn Valley in Gloucestershire (and it niifrht bo added along the banks of the Parrett in Somersetshire), will be familiar with a similar phenomenon, which there, however, occurs only with the spring-tides and produces the Bore. The tides of the Bay of Fundy spread themselves out over the adjacent coast-lands, and have there dejiosited marsh-soils of inexhaustible richness. In some of these saline swam{)s marsh grass grows abundantly and yields a heavy crop. But large areas of the salt marshes have been reclaimed by means of mud dykes, so built as to prevent the irruption of the tidal water, and it is these dyke lands which constitute so interesting and peculiar a feature in Nova Scotia along the Bay of Fundy and around the Basin of Mines, and on the adjacent shores of New Brunswick. The eastern dykes are strong and broad, six to eight feet high ; and the land within them is hard and dry, and produces an abund- ance of coarse but nutritious herbage. Year after year will these reclaimed marsh lands give upwards of two tons of hay per acre, and show no signs of running out. The Salt Hay, as it is termed, costs about ^i per acre to make, and is worth from £^ to £6 per ton in the market. The cost of reclaiming and dyking tho..e salt marshes varies between £i los. and £4 per acre .... In no country of America is fruit-growing better understood or more successfully practised than in Nova Scotia. The magnificent apple orchards of the Annapolis Valley stand, perhaps, unrivalled.' — Ibid., pp. 9, 10. grass- )oth to narshea Fundy of this an, two ceding i(>n the ateral ilcd ur APPENDIX VI. The Intervale Lands of New Brunswick. ' One of the most interesting natural features of the Province of New Brunswick is afforded by the intervale lands, that is, lands lying between the slopes of the valleys. Respecting these Professor Sheldon writes: "The inteiralc lands are, as the name suggests, found in the valleys. The name is pecu- liarly appropriate and expressive. In England we should call 134 The Geography of the Canadian Dominion. them bottom-lands or alluvial soils. They are, in fact, alluvial soils to all intents and i^urposes, with this peculiarity— they are still in process of formation. In some cases these intermle lands consist of islimds in the rivers, and there are many such in the magnificent river St. John ; but for the most part they are level banks on each side of the river, in some cases several miles wide and reaching the foot of the hills, which form the natural ram2iart3 of the valley they inclose. These intervale lands are rich in quality and the grass they produce is very good."' — Ibid., p. II. His I U APPENDIX VII. The Farms of Prince Edward Island. 'The most recent agricultural statistics relating to Prince Edward Island are those obtained in the Census of 1881, in which year there were 16,663 owners of land, 13,629 occupiers of land, 1,126,653 acres occupied, and 596,731 acres improved. The live stock comprised 31,335 horses, 90,722 cattle, 166,496 sheep, and 40,181 pigs. The population at the time was 108,891, and is now about 119,000. The agricultural produce in 1881 included 3,538,219 bushels of oats, 540,986 of wheat, 119,368 of barley, 90,458 of buckwheat, 3,169 of peas and beans, 15,247 of timothy and clover seed, and 143,791 tons of hay; also 1,688,690 lbs. of butter, and 196,273 lbs. of cheese. There is a considerable export trade in horses, cattle, and sheep to other parts of Canada and to the New England States. Perhaps the most peculiar feature in the fafming of the island is the extent to which the mussel mud of the rivers is used as manure. The mud is obtained by a dredging machine, worked by horse- power on the ice over the beds of nearly all the rivers where oyster and mussel deposits occur. These deposits are from ten to thirty feet thick, and are made up of oysters, nmssels, decayed fish, and sea-weed. Used as a fertiliser, this material acts promptly and effectively and produces very large crops of hay. Improved f.rms can here be bought at ^4 per acre. ! I' A^^pendix VIII. ^35 Professor Macoun, naturalist to the Geological and Natural History Survey of Canada, writes thus : " Prince Edward Island is a lovely spot and resembles very much an P^nglish landscape, as instead of the log fences used in Ontario there are hedges of English and Canadian hawthorn along the roadsides and round the farms. The houses, too, resemble the English farm houses. The soil is of sandy clay or sandy loam, red in colour. The farmers never have droughts on the island, but the seasons are very late. The ice in the Gulf of St. Lawrence during April and May renders the spring late, while the autumn is long in consequence of the heating of the Gulf waters during summer. Growth starts late in spring, is slow in summer, and has a long time to mature in autumn. As a result, there are no absolute failures of crops. The island has the best pasturage land on the continent of America." '—Ibid., p. 12. APPENDIX VIII. The Rocky Mountains. ' The western boundary of the Prairie Region is formed by the magnificent natural rampart of the Rocky Mountains, which often present to the east almost perpendicular walls of rock, though the junction of plateau and mountain is usually flanked by foot hills, such as those to the south or west of Calgary, among which the cattle ranches of Alberta have been estab- lished. In this superb mountain range the loftiest peaks are clad with peipetual snow, thrown into bold relief by the dark green hues of the pine trees which clothe the lower slope. The spectacle of this steep straight line of snowy peaks is said to surjiass the view of the Alps from the Milan Cathedral, or that of the Pyrenees from Toulouse. The range seems to culminate between the 51st and 52nd parallels about the head waters of the North Saskatchewan, and to the north gradually decreases in elevation till on the borders of the Arctic Ocean it is represented by low elevations. A common impression is that the whole of the mountainous 1 36 The Geography of the Canadian Dominion. I 'I I fin region between the western boundary of the prairie tand the coast of the Pacific is constituted by the Rocky Mountains. Such, however, is not the case, the Rocky Mountains being only the eastern portion of this region. Parallel with them run the Gold Range, and, further west, the Coast Range. From the western edge of the prairies to the Pacific, between the 49th and 56th parallels, the average breadth is 400 miles. The Rocky Mountain range of Canada is narrower than it is further south, in the United States the average breadth near the boundary line is about 60 miles, which further decreases near the Peace River to 40 miles. True glaciers appear only about the head waters of the Bow, North Saskatchewan, and Athabasca. On the western, or Pacific, side the Rockies are defined by a very remarkable and straight and wide valley, which can be traced uninterruptedly from the 49th parallel to the head waters of the Peace River, a distance of 700 miles. 'The Rockies therefore must be distinguished from the Gold Ranges, which include the subsidiary ranges called the Selkirk, Purcell, Columbia and Cariboo Mountains. The Selkirks also have more rounded and flowing outlines, but are very diflicult to penetrate, the forests being extremely dense and tangled. It has been said that the younger Verendrye was the first European traveller to see the Rocky Mountains, but his description of the mountains he saw is hardly glowing enough, and certainly not what we should have expected, if his eye really rested on those magnificent ramparts. Others have claimed the honour for Clark and Lewis (1806).' — Ibid., p. 23. i — Appendix IX, X. ^37 APPENDIX IX. Districts and Sub-districts of the North -West. The following is a Census of the three provisional districts of the North- West Territories (August 24, 1885) :— District. Assiniboia Suh-rliiilrict. , Broadview Qu'Appello and Rogina Moose Jaw Swift Current . Maple Creek ' Medicine Hat . i Carrot River . Prince Albert . Battleford i Edmonton Calgary . M-'Leod . Ibid., p. 39. Popxiation. 9.540 2,616 465 732 1.770 5.373 3.603 5,616 5.467 4.450 48,362 APPENDIX X. Fish and Fisheries of British Columbia. 'The fishery products of the Province are already remarkable considering the small population yet engaged in the trade The exports of fish and of fish products from Victoria alone, in the year ending June, 1888, were ^279,000 in value, and the total yield, including the consumption by Indians, is over ^1,000.000 The salmon of British Columbia are famous. There are twenty- one factories for making canned salmon, twelve of them being on the Fraser, and their annual out-put is from 150,000 to 200,000 cases (each containing forty-eight i lb. tins), with 4000 to s.ooo barrels of salt salmon. The take of salmon from the Fraser is over 8,000,000 lbs., exclusive of what the Indians FTTT J 38 The Geogrcqjinj of the Canadian Dominion. ml \^t- procure. Fresh salmon, as well as tinned salmon, are now l)ein<^ shipped frozen to the markets of Eastern America and En<,'land. A remarkable British Columbia fish is the oolachan, or candle fish. It is smaller than a herring, and so oily that when dried it will burn like a candle. They are caup^ht chiefly in the Nasse and Fraser Rivers. The fish begin running in the Nasse about the last day of March, and enter the stream by the million for several weeks. Another fish destined to be of great commercial value is the skil or black cod, which is caught in 1 50- 300 fathoms of water and at some distance from the shore. It is found in countless numbers between Vancouver and Queen Charlotte Island. The sealing industry is productive, the catch of seals in 1887 being valued at ;/^47,ooo. There are disputes however between the Canadian sealers and the Alaska Com- mercial Company.'— See 'Canada, a Memorial Volume,' Montreal, 1889. y i APPENDIX XI. b M fiiiil) Mountain Ranges of British Columbia. ' After the ramparts of the Rocky Mountains are passed there are the Gold Ranges, known more particularly as the Selkirk, Furcell, Columbia, and Cariboo mountains. The width of the Gold Range is about 80 miles, but north of the Cariboo district, above the head waters of the Peace River, it dies away. Between the Gold and Coast, or as they are sometimes called the Cascade Ranges, is the interior plateau of British Columbia, with an average width of 100 miles and an elevation of 3500 feet. Its height increases southward, but declines northward at the sources of the Peace River. It is dissected by deep and trough-like valleys. In the north it is closed at about latitude 55° 30' ^y several intercalated mountain ranges. 'The Coast, or Cascade Range, have an average width of 100 miles. These mountains are extremely rugged, and receive on their seaward slopes the moisture from the sea, and have a very luxuriant vegetation. Vancouver Island, and the Queen Char- lotte Islands to the north-west, are constituted by another Appendix XII. '.39 parallel series of mountains, the Vancouver Ranpfc which is continued southward in the Olympic Mountains, and northward in the peninsular portion and islands of Alaska. The highest mountain in Vancouver Island is 7844 feet.' — 'Agricultural Canada,' by Professor Fream, pp. 52-53. APPENDIX XII. Agricultural Districts op British Columbia. * British Columbia cannot be called an agricultural country throughout its whole extent, and the province will probably be svipplied with produce for some time from Alberta and Assiniboia. Its forests are very valuable, and in 1888 the exports of timber were valued at ;^"ii 5,000, as compared with ^30,000 in 1 88 1. Yet the agricultural resources are very great. In the Cariboo district there is a plain 150 miles long and 60- 80 miles wide, and between the Thompson and Fraser Rivers there is an immense tract of arable and grazing land. The hills and plains are covered with bunch grass, on which the cattle and horses live all winter, and its nutritive qualities are said to exceed the celebrated blue grass and clover of Virginia. Between 5000 and 6000 square miles of the F«>ace River prairie land is within this province. Besides the mainland, there are on Vancouver Island about 1,000,000 acres of land well suited to agriculture, and on Queen Charlotte Islands about 100.000 acres, most of this being now covered with dense forests. Further, it should be mentioned that from 1 858-1 885 about ten millions of pounds sterling was yielded by the Gold mines, also that extremely rich coal deposits exist on Vancouver Island, and at Burrard Inlet and Nicola Valley in the main- land.* — Proceedings of the Royal Colonial Institute, vol. xviii. p. 195, 1886-7. Paper by the Bishop of New Westminster. w^ ttii.. 140 The Geography of the Canadian DominioTi. APPENDIX XIII. The French Shore Kiohts in Newfoundland. ill II! By the Treaty of Ryswick, in 1697, various places on the south coast, of which Phicentia was the French capital, wen; kept in the possession of the French. In 1702 they held nearly the whole island in their own hands. Placentia was almost as firm a stronghold of the French as Port Royal in Nova Scotia. The Treaty of Utrecht secured the complete sovereignty of England, but it conceded certain Fisheries Rights which have been a continual source of trouble. The French sailors were allowed the right of catching fish, and drying them on land from Bonavista to the eastern shores of Newfoundland, and thence northward to Point Riche on the western shore. These rights have been left much as they were then defined. The Treaty of Versailles in 1783 and the Treaty of 1814 touched them, but did not alter them materially except in changing the limits, so that they now commence at Cape St. John on the east coast on latitude 50°, and extend north and west to Cape Ray, the south-west point of Newfoundland. The anomaly still remains that, although England's sovereignty is acknow- ledged, the French claim exclusive rights of Fishery along that shore. APPENDIX XIV. m m f.- Dairy Farming in Canada. 'The value of the cheese exported has more than doubled within recent years, Canadian cheese being now recognised as the best made in America ; and of late years it has competed successfully with the English-made articles. The following figures tell the progress of this trade in eleven j-^ears : — Quantity Exported. Value. 1874 . , 24,050,982 lbs. . . .£700,000 1884 . . 69,755,423 „ , , 1,400,000 1887 . . 73,604,448 „ . . 1,400,000 1888 . . 84,173,267 „ . . 1,800,000 " Appendix XIV. 141 J Such a rapid development in the cheese trade has naturally had the effect of limiting the production of butter: but nevertheless 4,415,381 lbs., of the value of ^,60,000, were exported in 18.S8. 'In September, 1888, there were in the Province of Ontario niore than 750 cheese factories, using up the luillc of 250,000 cows. At the same time there were 40 creameries at work. Ihere are throe associations, called the (i) Dairymen's Associ- ation of Western Ontario, (2) of Eastern Ontario, (3) the Creameries Association of Ontario. The average quantity of milk used per annum in the factories is 661,147,200 lbs yielding about 28,660 tons of cheese, the value of which is ^1,247,300, or 485 pence per lb. The farmers who send milk to the factories are called -patrons." The average annual number of patrons was 24,207, and of cows 148,560, the average per factory being 56 patrons, and 341 cows. Short-horns and their grades predominate in Western Ontario, but the Ayrshire 18 the favourite along the St. Lawrence.'-Extracts from Professor 1 ream's 'Agricultural Canada,' and Official Hand- I'i i II 1' GENERAL INDEX. Acadia, 5, 9, 52, 116. Africa. Equatorial, 16. • — South. 46, Agassiz, 104. Agriculture, Canadian, 103, 121, Ainslio Lake, 54. Alaska, n, 83, 84, 87, 88. Albany Rivor, 78. Albert County, 6r. Alberta District, 75, 76, 80. Alberton. 66. Aleutian Islands, 82, 83. Alexander, Pope, 6. Alexandria, 91. Algonkins, 58. Allagash, 59, AUeghanies, the, 10, 32, 115. Alluniet Island, 30. Altamaha River, 9. Amadas, Captain, 8. Amazon, 6. America, .South, 38. Amherst, 56. Anguilh', Cape, 94, 97. Annapolis, 8, 52, 56. — County, 55, 57. — River, 53, 54. Anne, Queen, 52. Anse Sablon, 28, 94. Anticosti, 5, 29,30. Antigonish, 56. Appelaehians, 32. Arctic Circle, the, 16, 19, 78, 82, 83- — Current, 95. — Ocean, 74, 77, 78, 88. Argenteuil County, 31, 35. Arichat, 57. Army, Canadian, 27, Aroostook, 59. Arrow Lake, go, Arrowsmith, Mount, 84. Artillery, Canadian, 27. — Lake, 79. Ashburton Treaty, 11. Asia, 82. — Central, 24. Assiniboia District, 68, 74 81 AssiniboineRiver, 14,70, 73,78. Athabasca District, 71, 76. — Lake, r6, 19, 77, ^g, 86. — River, 77, 86, 88. Atlantic, the, ir, 20, 24. 52, 53- 83. 88, 94, 95, Aurora Bin-alis, 23. Australia, 12, 38, 105. Avalon Peninsula, 94, 95. 97, 98. Aylmer's Lake, 79. Azores, 6. B. Babine Lake, 90. Baccalieu Tickle, 98. Baddeck, 57. Baffin's Bay, 24,83,95 Bagot County, 35. Baio St. l>au'l, 72. Baie Verte, 54, 60, 62. Baker Lake, 79. Banff, 80. Banks, Savings, in. Barens River, 70. Barkerville, 92. Barley, Canadian, 18, 19. Barre, Charlotte, 39. Barrens, the, 78. Newfoundland, 94 f !1! -■f1 f IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) // / .^ WJ i' ^ y. Va U. I.G I.I ||28 IIIIM 116 M III 2.2 1.8 1.25 1.4 .6 -• 6" ► Wa V ;v % i> m n? 6^ b' m?.. 144 General Index. 1 i m\ Barrington, 58. Bathurst, 61, 62, 63, — Bay, 59. Batiscan River, 35. Battle River, 79. Battleford, 79. Bauld. Cape, 97. Bear Lake, the Great, 16, 78, 79. Beauce County, 35. Beauharnois, 39. — County, 35. Bedeque Harbour, 65, 66. Bedford Basin, 54. Beechy, Lake, 79. Behring's Strait, 83. Belfast, 56. Bell Farm, 74. Belle Chasse County, 35, — Isle Straits, 14, 28, 33, 45, 94, 97, 98. Belly River, 80, 85. Beloeil Mountain, 30. Bend of Columbia, 89. Bermudas, 83. Berthier, 40. — County, 35. Betsiamito River, 35. Big Lake, 79. Bird Rocks, 29. Birds, migratory, 23. Birtle, 73. Black Brook, the, 99. — Stream, the, 82. Blackfriars, Ontario, 47. Blizzards, 15. Blomidon, 52. — Cape, 54. Blue Mountains, 43. Bonaventure County, 35, 63. Bonavista Bay, 97, 98. Bonne Bay, 97. Boston, 20. Boularderio Island, 54. Bow River, 77, 88. Brandon, 73, 104. Brant County, 49. Brantford, 47. Bras d'Or Lake, 54. Briar Isla.id, 54. Bridgwater, 58. Brion Island, 29. Bristol Channel, 53. British Association, the, 104. — Isles, 16, 24, 38, 83, 84. Broadview, 80. Brome County, 35. Brown Mountain, 15, 77, 88. Bruce County, 49, Bureau of Industries, 44. Burgeo District, 100. Burin District, 100. Burrard Inlet, 91. Butler, Sir W., 86. Cabot, I, 6, 7. — Islands, 97. Calais, 37. Calgary, 76. 80, 8r. California, 85. Calumet Island, 30. Camatha, 5. Campbellton, 62. Canada, Dominion of, 11, 16, 25, 27. — Bay, 97. — Proper, 5, 9, 11. — Upper, 42. Canadian people, 26. Canals, 33, 48. Canso, 52, 58. — Gut of, 53, 54. Cape Breton, 10, 52, 54, 57, lor. — Colony, T02, 105, no. — of Good Hope, 82. Capes of Nova Scotia, 54. Capetown, 14. Caraquet Bay, 60. Cardigan Bay, 65, Cardwell County, 49. Cariboo Island, 54. — Lake, 90. — Mountains, 88. — Plain, 88. Carleton County, 61. Carlton House, 8r. Cartler, Jacques, 5, 6, 9, 37. Cascade Mountain, 83, 85, 88. Cascapedla, 60. Cataraqui River, 45. Catholics, Roman, 40, 57, 61, loi, 117, 118. Cavalry, Canadian, 27. Census of Quebec, 40. General Index. 14.5 lOI. )I, toi, Chalcurs, Bay des, 29, 32, 58, 59. C'hambly County, 35. Champlain, Saimiel, 37. Chauiplain County, 35. — Lake, 30. 35. ('handler's Reach, 98. Charles I, 52. Charlevoix County, 35. Charlotte County, 61. Charlottetown, 12, 66. Charters, Royal, 7, 8. Chateauguay County, 35, Chatham, New Brunswick, 62. — Ontario, 47. Chatte Cape, 14. 32. Chaudiere River, 4, 32, 35, Chedalmcto Bay, 54. 58. Chesterfield Inlet, 79. Chicago, 19. Chicoutimi, 34, 39. — County, 35. Chignecto Bay, 52, 54, 59. — County. 54, 58. China Seas, 82, 83, Chinese, the, 91. Chinook winds, 76. Chippewyan Fort, 19, 20, 81. Christiania. 57. Chudleigh Cape, 94. Churchill River, 78, 79. Cipango, 5. Cirencester, 119. Climate, Canadian, 16, 23. — of British Columbia, 83. — of Manitoba, 71. Clode Sound, 98. Coal Mines, Canadian, 52, 56, 80, 108. Cobecpiid Bay, 54. — Mountains, 53, 58. Cocagne River, 59. Colchester, Ontario, 47. Colebrooke, 61. Colinet Island, 98, — Passage, 98. Colorado River, 88. Columbia, British, 11, 13, 14, 27, 68. 76, 77. 81. — River, 88. 89. Columlnis, Christopher, 5, 6. Comox, 92. Company, London, 8. Company, Plymouth, 8. Comjiton County. 35. Conception Bay, 90, loi. Connaigre Bay, 97. Connecticut River, 9. Coppermine River, 78. Cornwallis, 58. — River, 54. Cortereal, 7. Cottel's Island, 98. Couchichinu Lake, 49. Council of Plymouth, 8. Councils, Local Canadian, 117. Counties of Cape Breton, 57. — of Manitoba, 72. — of Nova Scotia, 55, 56. — of Ontario, 49. — of Quebec, 35, 36. Cowicham, 92. Crop averages, 18. Cross Lake, 90. Crossways Lake. 32. Cuba, 83. Cumberland Basin, 54, 60. — House, 20 81. Currents, ocean, 23, 24. D. Dakota, 15, 17. Dalhousie. 61, 62. Darkies Lake. 54. Dartmouth, 58. Dauphine, Cape, 54. Davis's Straits. 24. Daw.son, Sir W., 104, 123. Dead Island, 98. Dease Lake, 90. Debt, Canadian, no. — of Newfoundland, lox. Deer Lake, 78. — River, 79. De Monts, 8, 58. De la Peltrie, 39. — la Roche, 9. — la Roque, 7. — la Salle. 10. Delaware River, 9. Deserts of United States, 17, 20. Despair Bay, 97. Des Esquimaux River, 29 35. Detroit, 33. Dickens, Charles, 4C. !;:':• 146 DiRby. 58. — Gut, 54. Dildo Run, 98, Dixon Channel, 87. Doobaunt Lako, 79. D'Or Cape, 54. Dorchester, 61, 62. Douglas Channel, 84. — fir, 91. — Lord Selkirk, 67. Dover Port, Ontario, 47. Downton, 119. Duck Mountain, 68, Dufferin, Lord. 68, 90. Du Lievre River, 34. — Moine River, 34. — Nord River, 34. Dunmoro, 81. Durham County, Ontario, 49. E. Kagle Pass. 89. — River, 89. East Main River, 78. — River, 53. Edmonton, 81. Education in Dominion, 118, 121, 122. — in Newfoundland, loi. Edward Lake, 32. Eel Lake, 60. Egmont Bay, 65. — Cape, 54. Electoral Districts, 36, 50, 100. Elgin County, 49. Elias, Mount, 85. EUice. 81. Emerson, 73, 112. Engineers, Canadian, 27. England, 16, 24, 83. — of the Paciiicr, 29. Eo/oon Canadense. 31. Erie Lake, 11, 16, 33, 42, 47, 48. Esquimault. 5, 93. Essex County, 49. 72. Essington. Port, 87. Eternity, Cape, 34. Europe, ii, 21. Evangeline, 53. Exploits Bay, 95, 96. General Index. F. Fabre Lake. 79. Factories of the Hudson's Hay Company, 81, Falls of the Chaudiero, 35. — of Montmorency, 34. — of Niagara, 46. — of St. John, 59. Farnham, 39. Fear, Cape. 6, 8. Ferryland Countv, 100. Findlay River. 77, 86, 87. 88. Fish River, Great, 77, 79. Fisheries, Dominion, 14, 22. 106, — Now Brunswick, 62. — Newfoundland, 100. Florida, 83. — French, 5, 9. — Sfianish, 8. Fogo, 100. Forests, Canadian, 21, 22. 23. 105. Fort Garry, 73. Fortune Bay, 97, 100. France, 31, 119. Francis I, 6. Francis, Cape, 96. Franklin, 4. Eraser River, 14, 86, 87, 88. 89. 90, 91. 92. Frazerville, 39. Fredericton, 59, 61, 62, 63. French Lake, 60 — River, 44. — Shore, the, 100. Freshwater Bay, 97. Fi'ontenac, 45. Fundy. Bay of, 11, 52, 53, 58, 59. 60, 61, 62, 109. Gabarus Bay, 51. Gagetown. 61. Gander Bay, 96. Garden of Canada, 43. Gasp«5 County, 36. — Peninsula, 6, 29, 32, 41. Gatineau River, 34. George Bay, 54. Georgetown, 65, 66. Georgian Bay, 49. Germans, the, 58, 69, 75. General Index. 147 Hav !, 106. !3- I OS- SB. 89, 58, 59> (Tilbort, Sir II., 6, 7. (Iladstone, 73. (Glasgow, 56. (Jloiuiostcr County, Now Bruns- wick, 61. Gold Riingi', 76, 85, 88. Goose Bay, 97. ay, 96. 97. Portland, 12, 62, 84. Portn«!uf County. 36. Portncuif Kivt'r, 35. Ports of Ontario, 51. — of Quebec, 41. Portugal Cove, 7, 96. Portuguese, 6. I'otonuic, 8. Prairie, the, 25, 26. Primavista, Cape, 96. Prince Albert, 70, 81. — County, 66. Prince Edward Island, 10, 11, 13, 27, 29, 64, 65, 98. Protestants, 57, 61, loi, 117, 118. Provencher County, 72. Provinces, the, 27. Pugwash Harbour, 54, 58. Q- Qu'Appelle Valley, 74, 80, 81. Quebec, Province of, 11, 13, 28. 35. 63, 78. — city, 12, 13, 16, 27, 31, 34, 37. — County, 36. Queen Charlotte Island, 28, 83, 84. 85. 87. Queen's County, New Brunswick, 61. — Prince Edward Island, 66. Quesnelle Lake, 90. Quesnelly. 92. R. llace, Cape, 96, loi. Railway, Grand Trunk, 45. — Canadian Pacific, 76, 79, 80. 81, 88, 89, no. — Intercolonial, 62, 63. — North-West, 75, 76. Railways of New Urunswick, 62. Riiinfall of Canada. 17. Rainy Lake, 49. — River. 1 1. Raleigh, Sir W., 7. Ray, Cape, 94, 97. Red Deer River, 76. Red Indian Lake. 96. Red River, 14, 20, 67, 69, 70. 73. 78. Regent .Street. Ontario, 47. Regina, 76, 79, 80. Reindeer Lake, 16. Religious sects, 1 18. Reserves, Canadian. 27. Resolution, Fort, 81. Restigouche, 29, 58, 59, 60. — County. 61, 64. Revenue, Dominion, 109. Rey, Lake, 79. Richelieu County, 36, 37. — River, 4, 30, 35. Richibucto River, 59, 6i, Richmond, 37. — Bay, 65. Rideau Canal, 45. Riding Mountain. 68. Riel, Louis, 80. Rifies, Canadian, 27. RiniDuski, 40. — County, 36. Riviere du Loup, 63. Roanoke, 8. Roberval, Lord of, 7, 8. Rochester, Ontario, 47. Rockies, the, 68, 70, 72, 74, 75, 76, 77.79,80,81,82,84,85,88. Rockwood, 72. Rosario Strait, 84. Rossignol Lake, 54. 58. Rouge River, 34. Rousseau Lake, 49. Rouville County, 36. Rupert River, 32, 78. Rup(^rt's Factory. 81. — Land, 67. Russia, II. Rye, 19, 121. S. Saanicli Peninsula, 92. Sable, Cape, 54. — Island, 54. n i< I l.-,2 General Index. Siurkvilli'. 62. Sacred Bay, 97. Sa«u<'nay County, 35. — River, 4, 30, 32, 34. 40. St. Agatlic. Maiiitnha. 72. St. Andnw's, Manituba. 72. St. Andrew's. 61. St. Aiiiie'ss Bay, 53. St. Anne's Mountain. 31, 32. St. Anne, Manitoba, 72. St. liarbt* Buy. 97. St Boniface, Manitoba. 72. St. Catlierine's, 47. St. Charles, Manitol)a, 72. St. Charles Kiver, 37. St. Clair, 33, 49. St. Clement's, Manitoba. 72. St. Croix, 8, 9, 59. St. Francis Kiver, 4, 35. St. Franvuis Xavier, 72. St. George's Bay, 63, 96, 97. St. George, Cape, 54. St. Hyacinthe, 36, 37. St. .lames, Manitoba, 72. St. Jerome, 39. St. John, city of, 12. St. John's County, Ne\v Bruns- wick, 61. St. John's Ilarhour. 60. loi. St. John's Island, 10, 65. St. John's Lake, 30, 31, 32, 34. St. John, New Brunswick, 61, 62, 63, 98. St. John's Countjs Newfoundland. 100. St. John's, Newfoundland, 95, 96, 98. St. John's County, Quebec. 36, 37. St. John's River, lo, 59, 60, 6) . St. John's Kiver, Quebec, 35. St. Lawrence, Cape, 54. St. Lawrence, Gulf of, 7, 24, 52. 94. St. La>vrence River, i, 4, 5, 7, 14. 28, 32, 33, 34, 35, 37, 45, 49. 52, 77. 90. St. Lawrence Valley, 10, 26. St. Louis, 33. St. Mary's, 33. St. Mary's Bay, 54, 97. St. Mary's La Have, 53. St. Margaret Bay, 97. St. Maurice County, 36. St. Maurice River, 4, 32. 35, 37, 40. St. Narl)ert, Manitol)a, 72. St. Paul's Island, 54. St. FauTs, Manitolia, 72. St. Faid's, Ontario, 47. St. Peter's Lake, 30. 32, 35 St. Pierre Island, 97. St. Stei)hen, 62. St. Vital, Manitoba, 72. Salmon River, 60. Saltcoats, 75, 80. Salt Spring Islaiul, 92. Sambro Head Cape. 34. Sandhurst, a Canadian, 1 18. Sandwicii, Ontario, 47. Sandy Laki', 79. San Francis(!o, 84. 93. San Juan Archipelago, 84. Santee River, 9. Saskatchewan District, 68. 76. 78, 8r. — River, Little, 70, 76. Saugeen River, 47. Sault Ste. Marie, 43, 48. Savannah River, 9. Saxonka wheat, 121. Scarborough, Ontario, 4.7. Scatari Island, 54. Scliools, Canadian, 122. Scots, the, 3, 47, 69, 75. Selkirk Colonists, 4, 67. — Earl, 66. — Mountains, 76, 86, P8, 8g. — town of, 72. Sequin Lake, 79. Setting Lake, 79. Severn Factory, 81. — Lake, 79. — River, 79. Shakespeare, Ontario, 47. Shasta, 87. Shecoubish Lake, 33. Shediac, 62. — Bay, 60, 66. Sheet Harbour, 54. Shelburne, 56. Shepody Bay, 59, 60. Sherbrooke County, 36, 37, 63. Ship Harbour Lake, 54. Shippegan Island, 60. General Index. 15;^ 76. 78, 63. ShippinjT, Ciinadian, 107. — (Quebec, 40. Shoal Lake. 73. Sliortlidrns, 103. SliulHiiacadif Uiwr, 53. 58. ShuHwap Lake, 89, 90. Hicamous Narrows, 89. Sierra Nevada. 85. Simeoe Comity, 49. — Lake, 49. Similkaineen, 91. Simpson, Fort, 19, 20, 8r, 87. Skeeiia Kiver, 84, 86, 87, 88. Slave Lake, the Great, 16, 77, 78, 79- — Kiver, 77. Soils. Canadian, 25. Sorel, 39. Soudan, the, 27. Soiilanges County, 36. Souris River, 66, 70, South Indian Lake, 79. South Mountain, Nova Scotia, 53. Spain, 6. Spear, Cape, 94, 96. Spitzbergen, 24. Split, Cape, 54. Springfield, 72. Stan.stead County, 36. Steppes, Prairie, 4. Stikeen River, 84. Stony Mountain, 15. Stratford, Ontario, 47. Stuart Lake, 90. Suez Canal, 43. Suflblk, England, 116, 120. Sumatra, 83. Sumniersberry, 81. Summerside, 66. Sunbury County, 61. Superior, Lake, 4, u, 14, 16, 33, 48, 71. Susquehanna, 9. Sweden, 12. Sydney, 3, 12. — Cape Breton, 57. T. Tdche, Lake, 79. Tacla, Lake, 90. Tadousac, 9, 34. Tancock Island, 54. Telegraphs, lor, ri6. Temiscauiingut'. 20, 29, 32. Tiiuiscouata County, 36. — Lake, 59. 60. Terrebonne, 40. Texas, 15. Thames River, Ontario, 47. Tiiompson River, 8g, 92. Three Rivers. 33, 37. — County, 36. Thunder J5ay, u, 71. Thutage, Lake. 90. Tidal action. 109. Tignish, 65, 66. Tobique, 59, 60. Tooke, Vaneouver, 92. Torl)ay, 54, 58. Toronto, 12, 13, 17, 20, 24, 45, 47. 117- Tourniente, Cape, 31. Townships, Quel)ee, 40, 41. — of the North-West, 112. Trees, Canadian, 25. Trepassy Bay, 97. Trinity Bay County, Newfound- land, 100. Trinity, Capo, 34, 97, loi. — Out, 98. Triton Island, 98. Trout Lake, 79. Truro, 56. Turtle Mountain, 68. Twelve Mile Creek, 47. Two Mountains County, 36. Twillingate, 100. United States, 10, 11, 12, 15, 16, 20, 29, 43, 54, 58. 83, 84. Universities, Canadian, 123. Utrecht, Treaty of, 10, 52. Valley Field, 39. Vancouver Island, 4,' 16, 56. 83, 84. 86. 87, 91. Vaudreuil County, 36, 37. Vercheres County, 36. Vermillion, Fort, 19. — Pass, 85. Vermont, 32, 40. Verrazano, 6. Ih 1- 154 General Index. i'. I ;; 1!^ u 1 ■ ■ f Vi(!oroy of Caiiadu, 9. Victoria, Colony of, 12. — Ilridgo, 30. — County, New Brunswick, 61. Nova Scotia, 54. — — Ontario, 49. — — Vancouver, 7, 92. — Falls, 46. Vinjont, 39. Virginia, 9, 115. Voltain;, 10. Voyageurs, Canadian, 27. Walkorton, 47. Washadomoak, 59. — Lake, 60. Washington Lakes 83, 84, 85. 93. Wat(a--Hen Kiver. 70. Waterloo County, 49. Wealth, Canadian, in. Welland Canal, 47. — County, 49. Wellington County, 49. Wentworth County, 49. Weatbourne, 72. Westminster, Ontario, 47. Westmoreland County, Now Brunswick, 61. Weymouth, 58. — pine, 91. Whale River, Great, 78. Wheat averages, i8. Whitby, Ontario, 47. White Bear Bay, 97. Wigwam River, 85. William, Fort, 20. — Creek, 92. Willis Reach, 98. Wilson, Sir Daniel, 123. Windsor, Nova Scotia, 56. — Ontario, 47. Winnipeg, city of, 12, 13, 15, 16. 17, 20, 68, 69, 73. — Lake, 14, 16, 69, 77, 78. — River, 14, 70, 71. Winnipegosis Lake, 16, 70. Wisconsin, 18. Wolfe, 37. WoUaston Lake, 78. Wolseley, Lord, 27. Woods, Lake of the, 5, 10. 11, 49. Woodstock, Ontario, 47, 59, 61. Yale County, 92. — Rapids, 91. Yamaska County, 36. — River, 35. Yarmouth, 56. Yellow Head Pass, 85, 87. York, Ontario, 45. — Archipelago, 78. — County, New Brunswick, 61 64. — Factory, 70, 81. Yorkton, 75. Yosemito Valley, 87. Yukon River, 19, 77, 88. Z. Zambesi Falls, 46. THE END. H K; Wv m- By the same Author. HISTORY OF THE DOMINION OF CANADA UNDER THE AUSPICES OF THE ROYAL COLONIAL INSTITUTE WITH ELEV^ ' MAPS AT THE CLARENDON PRESS LONDON: HENRY FROWDE OXFORD UNIVERSITY PRESS WAREHOUSE, AMEN CORNER, E.G. OPINIONS OP THE PRESS. ' Mr. GreswcH's handbook marks, we may liopo, tho beginning of a new era in the historieal studies pursued in British educa- tional establishments .... 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