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DESCRIPTION
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A VIBW OF 'VK
FALLS OF NIAGARA.
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The EDITH and LORNE PIERCE
COLLECTION of CANADI ANA
ilueerfs University at Kingston
Univkrsite de Montreal
BIBLIOTHEQUE
I ,
. I
,nn
University de Montreal
AR 1963
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DESCRIPTION
or A
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\
Taaair
OF TIIF.
FALLS OF NIAGARA,
NOW EXHIBITING
AT
^mm iF^sr®iEiiffiii^ ]bi^^jLW)WA'^^j
CORNER OF PRINCE AND MERCER STREETS,
NEW YORK.
PAINTED BY ROBERT BURFORD,
FROM DRAWINGS TAKEN BY HIM IN THE AUTUMN OF 1832,
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t '^ 2 '-iH f\j
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The Fai
osities in tl
all of the a
jiheni in ter
J^ubliinltye'
* An intclli
attempt of (he
Deans of desc
-fail entirely
I certain, m
THE FALLS OF NIAGARA.
<*
" The roarol'wRlrm !— from tho headlonff height
iNiairurn] cleavus llii! wnve-worn priu-ipico ;
'he fall of waters ! — rapid us ihe hjilit,
The tlusliin)( inaH.4 foams, slinking tlie abysR i
The licll of waters ! — where they howl anle and sublime dignity, an ocean of waters three
3uarters of a mile in width, precipitated with astonishing grandeur, in three
istinct and collateral streams, down a stupendous precipice upwards of 150 feet
in height, on the rocks below, iron) which they rebound, converted, by the violence
of the concussion, into a broad sheet of foam as white as snow ; pyramidical
clouds of vapor or spray rise majestically in uiisty grandeur from the abyss,
sparkling here and there with prismatic coloi-s, and a rainbow of extraordinary
pieauty, and peculiar brilliancy, heightens the scene, by spanning the Great Fall.
Above are seen the agitated billows, and white-crested breakers of the Rapids,
tumultuously hurrying towards the precipice, bounded on the one side by the
luxuriant foliage of Goat Island, and on the other by the fertile and thickly-wooded
ahores of Upper Canada. Below, the river winds in a stream, bright, clear, and
remarkably green, between bold and rugged banks, richly colored by both wood
and rock. The surrounding scenery, although it must be viewed with couiparative
indifference, whilst the mind is absorbed in contemplating the grandeur and
extent of the cataract, is also in excellent keeping ; stupendous and lofly banks,
immense fragments of rock in fantastic forms, impenetrable woods approaching
their very edge, the oak, ash, cedar, maple, and other forest trees of extraordinary
growth and singular shape, the pine, and various evergreens, brushwood peeping
from the Assures, and beautiful creeping plants clinging to the perpendicular
sides of the rocks, presenting a vast variety of foliage and diversity of hue, rendered
still more pleasing by«the first frosts of autumn having changed the leaves of
some of the more tender to every shade of color, from the brightest yellow to the
deepest crimson, thus combining every thing that is essential to constitute the
sublime, the terrific, and the picturesfiue.
The Niagara strait — which forms the boundary line between the British posses-
sions and the United States — is a grand natural canal, by which the superabundant
waters of Lake Erie are poured into Lake Ontiu-io. It is a continuation of the
River St. Lawrence. Its length from lake to lake is 37 miles, following the
windings of the stream, its general course being n«)rtherly, and it varies in
breadth from 30 rods to 7 or 8 miles.* In this distance the water sustains a fall
of 334 feet, thus calculated: — between Lake Erie and the Rapids, IG feet; in the
Rapids, 58 feet; in the Crescent Full, 154 feet; and the remainder beiore it
reaches Lake Ontario. In the early jmrt of its course, the river is broad and
tranquil, and ])resents a scene of the most profound re|)Ose, its waters being
nearly level with its shores, and the large and beautiful island, Owunungah,
dividmg it into two streams for a considerable distance. At Clii|)pewa and
of paintinjs^, might produce a pirliire which would probably distance every thing else of the kind."
— " The task must be done I)y a person who shall eo to the spot for the express purpose, making
the actual drawings, whieii he himself is afterwards to convert into a Panorama, which, if weH
executed, could not fail to impart some portion of the pleasure communicated hy the reality."
The same traveller, having seen the painting in progress, has expressfd the foliowmg opinion .■—
" The Panorama of Niagara, though not complelecl, is sutticieiilly advanced to enable any one
who has seen it to iudge of the elTcct ; and I have no hesitation in saying, you have accomplished
a tank which I hardly iioped to sec execiiti-d ; I think your painting gives not only an exceedingly
accurate, but a most animated view of the Falls."
* Its greatest width is across the centre of Owanungali, or Grand Island, which is about fiA
■nilea across, and divides the river into two parts for about 10 miles, the branch on each side of it
being from | to 1 mile in width. The broadest expanse of water is below tiraud Island, where it
resemblea a beautiful bay, about 2| miles broad.— /n^ra/tam't Manual,
*I)r.
never It-sJ
above I (hi
t L-akof
mean doj
the sen ,
and is b\)\
Huron, al
the sea, al
\ Thesl
but thcrri
memory '
#
lich is indis-
iny adequate
ance, of this
iited, to com-
ueiice of the
le deep and
il a sense of
n
able Rock — a
le same time,
front of the
waters three
ur, in three
ds of 150 feet
ly the violence
pyraniidical
im \he abyss,
extraordinary
he Great Fall.
)f the Rapids,
16 side by the
lickly-wooded
gilt, clear, and
by both wood
h comparative
grandeur and
id lotiy banks,
s approaching
['extraordinary
iwood peeping
perpendicular
f hue, rendered
the leaves of
8t yellow to the
) constitute the
British posses-
sui)erubnndant
iiiuntion of the
, following the
nd it varies in
r sustains a fall
IG feet ; in the
inder before it
r is broad and
8 waters being
il, Owanungah,
Chippewa and
■ else of ilio kind."
^
lo enalile any one
have acroniplislied
nly an exceedingly
which is alioul fi^
II on each side of it
id Island, where il
5
Sclilosser, about two miles above the I'^alls, where the navigation ends, a con-
siderabli! cMrniiit is |)erceptil)le, and the glassy smoothness is distiirlied by slight
ri|)pl('s ; tlie shores now contract considerably, and tliu bed of the river begins to
slope; the water shortly after becomes niui^h agitated, and the magniticcnt
Rapids coiiimcnce; rock after rock chafes the stream, wliich becomes perfectly
white, and nislies with frightful velocity to the f'l()iis avoirdupois.
t Luke Superior, the larijesl fresh-water lake in the world, is 1750 miles in circumference ; its
mean dejMli is !l(JO feet, ils uroatcsl deplli VZiM) feet ; and its snrface is (iU feet aliove the level of
llie sea . Lake Huron is HlOO miles in circumference ; has almiit the same deplii as Fiake Superior,
and is b% feel aliove the level of llie sea : Lake Michiijan has the same level and depth as l^ake
Huron, nnd is 731 miles in circumference : Lake Krie is (ioti miles in circumference, Stiri feet above
the sea, and has only a mean depili of 1 20 feet.
I These rece.ssioiis, however, were in Ihe angle or curve of the Oescent or Horse-shoe Fall ;
but there is no evidence that there has been any recession at the .sides of the Falls, within the
memory of man.
'^
,,«i«. ^'
6
excavation ; nnd, by tlie ^me calculation, it will require at least 30,000 to reach
Lake Erie ; hut when the river was confiiieci to a narrower channel, the operation
might have been much quicker. The ilistunce from the mouth of the ravine is
nearly seven miles, the average breaiith I'^OO feet. Up to the period when Goat
Island divided the Fall, ttie wliole li>rce of the water would have bt^en exerted on
this snrftice ; since that time, the op»!rative |)ower of the water has been extended
to nearly JJ500 feet : this diminished action would necessarily be attended by a
retardation in the retrocession of the cataract. The Fall has also reached a point
wlicre, in addition to the thickness of tlie limestone beds, numerous layers of
chert give additional strength and durability.
A communication has Avithin a few yeare been opened between the western
lakes and the (;ea, by tlie grand Erii; Oanal, from Lake Erie to the Hudson, and by
the Wetland Canal, between Lake Erie and Luke Ontario. The Welland Canal
commences at Port Colburn, in Gravelly Bay, passes the river Chippewa by
means of a noble aqueduct, and enters Lake Ontario at Port Dalhousie. The
work was commenced in 1824, and was completed in five years ; it is 43 miles in
length, 58 feet in width, and 8^ feet in depth; it admits vessels of 125 tons
burden ; the whole descent is 342 feet, which is accomplishetl by 37 locks. At
the Deepcut, about 8 miles trou) the Falls, 1,477,700 cubic feet of earth were
removed ; and at the Mountain Ridge, where the descent is made, 70,000 cubic
yards of rock. The idea originated with Mr. VV. H. Merritt, of St. Catherine's,
and the work was planned and accomplished, with the assistance of the British
government, by the Canada Land Company, at the expense of £200,000. This
canal is now the property of the government
Little was known of the Falls of Niagara jirevious to the commencement of the
last century. They were described by Father Hennepin in 1()78, and by La Hon-
tan in 1687. In the iatter part of the last century, they were visited by several
travellers; but it is only within a few years tliat they have been a fashionable
place of resort. The numl>er of visitors is now probably from 20,000 to 30,000
annually ; and each successive year greatly outimnd)ers its predecessor.
The immediate neighborhood of the Falls, and the banks of the strait, have
been the scenes of a succession of actions, attended with the horrors of civil war,
between the British and American troops in 1812 — 1814, |)articidarly four desper-
ate encounters ui July, August, and September, of the latter year.
I
Note.— For most of the data in this Description, we are indebted to the valuable " Manual for
the Use of Visiters to liie Falls of Niaorara," Sic, by Mr. Joseph W. I.ngraham, of Boston;
which we have been kindly permitted by the author to use for this purpose ; and to which we
would refer for a more full description of this great wonder of the world. Mr. Iiigraham ha.s been
engaged for four years in preparing an extensive work descri|)tive of these Falls, and the country
adjacent to them, which is expected soon to issue froni tlie press, and which is to be accompanied
by copious Maps, Plans, Elevations, Profiles, Views, &.c.
SS«-
m^
0,000 to reach
, the operation
f the ravine is
()d when Gout
en exerted on
been extended
attended by a
caclied u point
roua layers of
n the western
liidson, and by
VVellund Cunal
Chip|)ewa by
allioiisie. The
t is 43 miles in
s of liJa tons
y 37 locks. At
of earth were
e, 70,000 cubic
St. Catherine's,
; of the British
200,000. This
sncement of the
and by La Hon-
sited by several
n a fasiiionable
>0,000 to 30,000
:^"ssor.
the strait, have
rors of civil war,
irly four desper-
iiahlc " Manual for
lAHAM, of Boston;
e ; and lo which we
liigraham has been
ills, and Ihc country
to be accompanied
EXPLANATION OF THE ENGRAVING.
1. — Goat Island.
An Island . about half a mile in Icngtli, insrrted' like a wodgn between the Falls, pre-
sontinjr its broadest end, wliiclj is about 11120 feet, to the precipice ; it is thickly covered
witii wood, and exhibits a variety of romantic scenery. It is approached over two
bridgi's tlirown from the main sliore to Bath Island, and from Bath Island to this. A
path winds round it, from which various other patiis diverge to the most advantageous
points for viewing the ilapids and Falls.
It is roport(!d that this island was first visited during the Canadian war of 1755, by
General Putnam, who, in consequence of a vager having been laid that no man in the
army would dare to attempt a descent upon it, made a successful effort ; he dropped
down the river, from a considerable distance above, in a boat, strongly secured by ropes
to the shore, by which means lie was afterwards safely landed. Wiien the island was
first explored, after the construction of the bridge from the main shore, many dates
were found cut upon the frees, one of which was as early as 1745.
A young Englishman, named Francis Abbot, of respectable connections, either through
misfortune or a morbid state; of mind, which made him desire seclusion, took up his resi-
dence on this island, and in the neighborhood of the Falls, for two years.; and became
80 fascinated with the solitude and the scenery, that no inducement could divert his
thoughts, or draw him from the spot, where he acquired the name of the " Hermit of
the Falls." The following account of him is condensed from one furnished by Mr. In-
graham.
Me arrived at the Falls, on foot, in June, 1820, dressed in a loose gown or cloak of a
chocolate color, carrying under his arm a roll of blankets, a flute, a portfolio, and a large
book, which constituted the whole of his baggage. He took up his abode, in the first
instance, in the small inn of Ebenezer O'Kelly, on the New York side, stipulating that
the room he occupied should be exclusively his own, that he should have his tabic to
himself, and that certain i)arts of his cooking only should be done by his host. He then
repaired to the library, where he giive his name, and took out a book, j)urchased a violin,
and borrowed some music-books. The following day he again visited the library, expa-
tiated largely, with great ease and ability, on the beautiful scenery of the Falls, and de-
clared his intention of remaining at least a week; for " a traveller might as well," he
said, " in two days examine in detail the various nmseums and curiosities of Paris, as
become acquainted witli the splendid scenery of Niagara in the same space of time."
On a subsequent visit, ho declared his intention of staying at least a nionlli, perhaps six.
Shortly afler, he determined on fixing his abode on (Joat Island, and was desirous of
erecting a hut, in which he might live quite secluded. The proprietor f the island did
j not think jiroper to grant this request, but permitted him to occupy a small room in the
only house on the island, the family in which occasionally furnished him with bread
•' and milk, though he more generally dispensed with these, providing, and always cooking,
his own food. During the second winter of his seclusion, the family removed, and to
the few persons with whom he held coinmuniciition, he expressed great satisfaction at
.being able to live alone. For some months he enjoyed this seclusion ; but another fam-
ily having entered the house;, he quitted the island, (having resided on it twenty months,)
and built himself a small hut on tlie main shore, about thirty rods below the Schlosser
Fall. He lived to occupy his new residence only about two months. On the 10th of
June, 18111 , he was seen to bathe twice, and was observed by the ferry -man to enter the
water a third time about two o'clock in the aflernoon : his clotliea remoiuing for some
8
y
11!
\^
hours where he lind deposited them, nn nlami was created, and an inetToctiial search was
made for hiiu. On tlic ^IhI, his iiody was tiilsen out of tiie river at Fort Niajjora, and,
the next day, was deeently interred in tlie linrial-irround near liie Falls.
When his hut was examined, iiis tiiitht'ul dug was t'ouiid i^uardinfr the door, and was
with dilKculty jxTsuaded aside while it wiis opened ; his cat ()ec«])ied his bed ; liis gui-
tar, violin, flutes, music-books, and portfolio, wen- scattered around in confusion, but no
papers relative to himself, or tlirowinji any lijilit ii|)on his extraordinary character, were
to be found. lie was a gentleman of liiglily-eultivated mind and manners, and finished
education; master of several langua<:es; well vcr.<('d in the arts and sciences, and pos-
sessing, in an eminent degree, all tlie minor accomplishments of the gentleman. He
performed on various musical instruments with great taste, and his drawings were very
spirited. Many yi'ars of his lili' had been spent in travelling. ll<' hud visited Egypt
and Palestine; liad traveUed through Turkey, Greece, Italy, ypain, Portugal, and
France ; and liad resided for considerable jieriods of time in Home, Naples, and Paris.
In all his travels, he said, he had never met with ar.y thing that would compare, in sub-
limity, with the Falls of Niagara, except Mount il-Una during an eruj)tion. VVliile at
the Falls, business occasionally brought him in contact with some of the inhabitants,
with a few of whom he would sometimes be sociable : to all others he was distant and
reserved. At such times, his conversation would be of tiie most interesting kind, and
his descriptions of peoj)le and countries were highly glowing and animated. But, at
times, even with these, he wotild hold no conversation, communicating his wishes on a
slate, and desiring not to be spoken to. Sometimes, for three or four months together, he
would go-unshaved, often with no covering on his head, his body enveloped in a blan-
ket, shunning all, and seeking the deepest stilitudes of Cloat Island. He was about
twenty-eight years of age, in person tall and well made, and of handsome features.
When obligecf to have any intercourse with others, h<' was generous in paying for all
favors and services, never receiving any thing without making immediate payment.
He had a deep and abiding sense of religious duty and decorum ; was mild in his beha-
vior, and inoffensive in his conduct. Religion was a subject which he appeared well to
understand, and highly to appreciate. The charity he asked from others, he extended
to all mankind.
Many spots on Goat Island arc consecrated to his memory; at the upper end, he es-
tablished his promenade, whicli became hard-trodden antl well-beaten, like that in
which tlie sentinel performs his round of duty. Between CJoat and Moss Islands, em-
bowered in seclusion and shade, is one of tlie most romniilic and charming cascades
imaginable. This was his favorite retreat for bathing, where he resorted at all seasons
of the year, even in the coldest weather, when there was snow on the ground, and ice
on the river. On Terrajiin Bridge it was his daily j)ractice to walk for hours together,
from one extremity to the other, with a quick pace ; and sometimes he would let him-
self down at the end of the ])rojecting timber, which extends ten or fifteen feet beyond
the Fall, and hang under it by his hands and feel over the terrific precipice, for filleen
minutes at a time. To the incjuiry why he thus exposed himself, he would reply, that
in crossing the ocean, he had frequently seen the sea-boy, " on the high and giddy
mast," perform far more perilous acts, and, as he should ])robably again pass the sea
himself, he wished to inure himself to such diiugers. If th<' nerves of others were dis-
turbed, his were not. In the wildest hours of th(> night, he wiis oflen found walking
alone, and without fear, in the most dangerous places near the Falls; and, at such times,
he would shun approach, as if he had a dread of man.
2. — Bid die Staircase.
Constructed in the year 1820, at the expense of Nicholas Biddle, Esq., of Philadel-
phia, to facilitate the descent to the rocks at the foot of (Joat Island, where magnificent
and much-admired views of the Falls are obtained. The island is 18") feet abcwe the
gulf; the first 44 feet of the descent is in the alluvial soil and rock ; the next HS is a
spiral wooden staircase, and the remaining distance the descent is by the sloping bank,
in every direction, over immense fragments of rock, which have been broken of!" and
tumbled from the ledge above. The construction of this descent has open<>d one of the
finest fishing places in this jiart of the Union ; the water beinjr the resort of various fish
which come up from Lake Ontario, and are stopped by the Falls. The notorious Sam
Patch leajMid from a ladder, 1)7 feet high, into the smooth water in front of this stair-
cue, in October, 1829, and received no injury.
melancl
were reii
the Falls
to cross '
means,
human
dashed
floated
The
was vie\
round
horse,
his arm
{round,
le. whi
■prung
release*'
in F.
into the
In St
inhuma
to her
•econd,
round,
tiicn fill
cataract
ken ve
#ound a
abandoi
A consii
g
;tnnl soarch was
l Miiigora, and,
ic door, and was
lis bt'd ; his gui-
oni'iiciion, but no
clianiclor, were
:*rs, and iinitslii^d
licnct'S, and pos-
jri'iitlcnian, Ilo
wings wero very
ad visilcd Kgypt
, I'ortngal, and
pies, and Paris,
compare, in sub-
l)li()n. While at
the inhiibitants,
was distant and
tinjr kind, and
iniated. But, at
If his wishes on a
iiitlis together, he
eloped in a blan-
I. lie was about
iidsonie features.
in paying for all
nediate payment.
mild in his beha-
' appeared well to
Lhers, he extended
upper end, he es-
aten, like that in
Moss Islands, eni-
;harming cascades
rted at all seasons
le ground, and ice
for hours together,
he would let him-
fii'teen feet beyond
I'cipice, for filleen
would reply, that
le high and giddy
imiin pass the sea
A others were dis-
en found walking
md, at such times,
, Esq., of Philadel-
where magnificent
1H5 feet ab<>ve the
; the ne.xt H,-^ is a
y the sloping bank,
■en broken ofl' and
opened one of the
'sort of various fisli
riie notorious Sam
front of this stair-
3. — Column of Vapor.
The mightv clouds of vapor which are thrown u; from the Falls move with the wind,
#nd descend m a misty shower like rain ; they are seen from a very great distance, ap-
pearing like a pillar of smoke. When the siin and the position of tne observer are fa-
irorable, they present a remarkably beautiful appearance, sparkling like diamonds, with
occasional noshes of the most brilliant colors, and a splendid rainbow.
4. — Terrapin Bridge.
A singular bridge or pier, 300 feet in length, has been constructed upon what are
ealled the Terrapin Rocks, where a single piece of timber actually projects over the edge
of the Great Fall about 10 feet. Although the prodigious magnitude of the falling water
it not so apparent as from below, yet, trom the extremity oi this bridge, standing, as it
were, in the very midst of the mighty flood, the scene is terrific and appalling, and can-
not be viewed without astonishment and awe, not unmixed with fear. A late writer
■ays, " If the visitor is alone, and gives way to his feelings, he must fall on his knees,
fcr the grandeur of the scene is overpowering."
5. — Rapids.
Before approaching the precipice, over which the water is precipitated, the river
■inks, in little more than half a mile, 58 feet, and the stratum of limestone, which forms
its bed, is intersected with seams and patches of hard, dark-colored chert. Through
this channel of rugged rocks the water rushes with terrific and ungovernable impetuosi-
ty, a fiercely-raging torrent, converted, by the resistance with which it meets, into a
broad expanse of toam, as white as snow, bearing a strong resend)lance to the breakers
on a rocky shore during a gale. The inhabitants of the neighborhood consider it as
certain death to get once involved in the Rapids; not only becatise escape from the
cataracts would be hopeless, but because the force of the watt?r amongst the rocks would
probably destroy life before the Falls were approached. Instances are on record of the
melancholy fate of persons who have thus perished. In the summer of 1821, three men
were removing furniture from Navy Island ; the wind was high, and in the direction of
the Falls ; the current was consequently stronger than usual, and they thought it unsafe
to cross so near the Falls. They fastened their boat, and went to sleep in it. By some
means, it became loosened, and they discovered themselves already in the Rapids. No
human power could save them ; the boat was carried down, and in a few moments
dashed to pieces. Some of the goods were picked up below, much broken j but a table
floated ashore uninjured.
The celebrated Chateaubriai.d relates that he narrowly escaped a similar fate : he
was viewing the Falls from the bank of the river, having the bridle of his horse twisted
round his arm : a rattlesnake; stirred in the neighboring bushes, and startled the
horse, who reared and ran backwards towards the abyss. Not being able to disengage
his arm from the bridle, he was dragged atler him; the horse's fore legs were off the
S round, and, squatting on the brink of the precipice, he was upheld merely by the bri-
le, when, astonished by this new danger, he suddenly threw himself forward, and
sprung to a distance of ten feet, again dragging Chateaubriand with him, who was thus
released from his perilous situation.
In February, IH5i7, two men, who embarked in a boat to cross the river, were forced
fcto the Rapids by the ice, precipitated into the abyss below, and dashed to pieces.
In September, 1827, a schooner, called the Michigan, with a number of wild animals
inhumanly confined on her deck, was tjwed to the margin of the Rapids, and abandoned
to her fate. She passed the first fall of the Rapids in safety, but struck a rock at the
■econd, and lost her masts : there she remained an instant, until the current turned her
round, and bore her away. A bear here leaped overboard, and swam to the shore. She
then filled, and sunk, so that only her upper works were visible, and she went over the
cataract almost without being seen. In a fi'w moments her fragments, which were bro-
ken very small, covered the basin below. A cat and a goose were the only animals
found alive. In October, 182!), the schooner Superior was towed into the current, and
abandoned ; but she struck on a rock, about the middle of the river, where she remained
a considerable time, and finally went over the Fails in the night.
10
1 1
fi-
ll
I'l
6. — Crescent or Horse-shoe Fall.
The Crescent or Horse-slioe Fall, as it is gencrolly termed, from the precipice having
been worn by the water into somewhat of that form, is 154 leet in perpendicular heijjht;
in consequence of its shape, tlio water converges to the centre, where it descends in a
■olid mass at least 12 feet in thickness, being driven forward with an impetus that hurls
it into the gulf below, 50 feet from the base of the rock. For nearly two thirds of its
descent, tlie water in the centre falls in one vast, unbroken mass, smooth and unruffled,
and of a beautiful green color: the remainder is hidden by the vast body of vupor, as-
cending from the abyss. Tile whole surface of the river ajjpears a body of foam, diffcing
essentially from any thing of the kind produced in a similar way : the bubbles of which
it is universally composed are extremely small, are always ascending by millions, and
spread over the water in one continued and apparently solid mass. The water is also
projected upwards, sometimes to the height of iJiO ll'ot, by the force of the air below, in
an nnmense number of small white cones, with pointed heads, their tails varying from
one to twelve vards, stretching in every direction, which may be seen continually start-
ing from the cloud of spray.
From Goat Island to Table Rock, the distance in a straight line is 1221 feet, but fol-
lowing the curvoture of the Fall, which is an irregular segment of a circle, with a deep
angular gash near the centre, it is 2IJ7() feet, which vast width detracts most surprisingly
from its ap])arent height. The tremendous noise occasioned by this vast body of water
falling on the rocks below is of a most extraordinary description. Capt. Hall comprires
it to the incessant rumbling, dee]), monotonous sound, accompanied by tiie tremor,
which is observable in a grist-mill of very large dimensions, where ninny pairs of stones
are at work ; — Mr. McTaggart, to the tuiiibliiig of a vast (jiinntity of large round stones,
from a huge precipice into water of a profound depth. A slight tremulous motion of the
earth is felt to some distance on all sides, but is more particularly observable on Goat
Island : the noise may be heard, when the atmosphere is favorable, tiily miles.
7. — Cavern behind the Sheet of Water at Table Rock.
The violence of the impulse causes the water of the Great Fall to incline considerably
forward in its descent, and the continual action on the shale has hollowed out the rock
below, leaving the upper or hardest stratum hanging over in a very jicrilous manner,
above 50 feet, forming a sort of cavern, into which travellers are able to penetrate as far
as Termination Rock, an impas.sable mass, 155 feet from the entrance. The passoge
into this cavern is rather difficult; but it is the place of all others to contemplate the
extraordinary sight. The rusli of the water here Is awful, the thundering sound tre-
mendous ; but the slippery and rugged rocks, the dinieully of respiration, and the blasts
of air, which is carried down in vast (piantities by tlie river, and rises again with proper
tionate velocity in every diri'dion, with the (piantity of spray which accompanies its
ascent, renders it unpleasant to remain any length of time.
10. — Pavilion Hotel.
A large and commodious house, on the heights above the Falls, containing excellent
accommodations for about 150 persons. From the top of this house, and from the galle-
ries or verandahs in the rear, which are ranged one above tiie other, a fine view is ob-
tained ; the surrounding country, the upper course of the river for several miles, the
Rapids, and the Falls, being seen at the same time : the lower part of the Fall is of
course invisible, but the imagination cannot picture it more grand than it really is. A
foot-path, laid with pinnks, winds from the upper bank, on which the house is situated,
through the narrow, marshy slip which forms the immediate margin of the river, to
Table Rock.
The Canadian side is exquisitely beautiful, richly cultivated, and thickly inhabited :
the ground is extremely fi-rtile, and the rapid progress of popuhition, business, and the
arts, created by the Welland Canal, and its collateral works, and its inexhaustible water
Sower, will soon render it one of the most important parts of the British dominions.
Ir. Forsyth, who was the first proprietor of the hotel on this side, has recently disposed
of his hotel and surrounding property, to a company of gentlemen, who have planned a
city, and propose erecting cnurclies, schools, ball and promenade rooms, public gardens,
libraries, and houses of various sizes, so as to form a place of fashionable resort, to be
called " The City of the Falls."
i
sel
Idom
.Jr
11
precipice having
ndicular hoi(rht;
it descends in a
pctuu that hurls
two thirds of its
111 and unruflled,
)dy of vapor, as-
|.)f fooin, difti"'ing
l)ubl)l(>8 of wliicR
liy millions, and
The water is also
the air below, in
ils varying from
uontinuuUy start-
221 feet, but fol-
rcle, with a deep
nost surprisingly
ist body of water
)t. Hall compares
i by the tremor,
ly pairs of stones
rgc round stones,
ous motion of the
servable on Goat
y miles.
Rock.
;line considerably
iwed out the rock
l)crilous manner,
to penetrate as far
oe. The passage
[) contemplate the
dering sound tre-
on, and the blasts
igain with proper
1 accompanies its
itaining excellent
nd from the galle-
a fine view is ob-
geveral miles, the
of the Fall is of
an it really is. A
house is situated,
n of the river, to
thickly inhabitj'd :
business, and the
lexliaustible water
British dominions.
1 recently disposed
ho have planned a
IS, public gardens,
lablc rcsoit, to be
11 h 11.— Table Rock.
A broad, flat rock, forming a platform of considerable area, on the same level, and in
Immediate contact with the western extremity of tlie great leuge, over which the stream
ts precipitated ; being IHO feet below the upper bank. It is undoubtedly one of the best,
if not the very best point for viewing this magnificent scene, as the eye commands at
once the whole of the majestic amrihitheatro of cataracts, as well as the various stations
on both sides of the river, a considerable distance. The rocks having fallen away from
beneath, the surface projects several feet over the abyss. Visitors possesse^l of strong
nerves, frequently lay themselves flat on the rock, with the face beyond the edge, look-
ing from tliis fearful iieight into the roaring abyss below. The Table Rock is a" favorite
Slace for strangers to inscribe their initials or names, with the date of their visit ; but it
I probable that posterity will not be much benefited by this ingenuity, as the rock haa
lOany considerable seams and fissures, and a long slip, a few yards below, fell, with a
tremendous crash, in August, 181d. This mass, which was KiO feet in length, and from
30 to 40 in breadth, providentially fell during the night, or many lives might have been
lost, as the pathway to the guide's house passed over it : a portion of it, 15 feet long,
lies in the river below, and is delineated in the Picture, (No. %7.)
15. — Staircase.
In the rear of the dwelling of the guide, who provides visitors with suitable dresses,
tnd attends them to the cavern behind the Great Fall, a convenient staircase descends
ftom the platform to the sloping shore of the water below, and a rough and slippery
Sith, over fragments of fallen rock, conducts to the foot of the Fall. From the river the
all has an extraordinary appearance ; no part of the Rapids being seen, the water ap-
pears to be poured perpendicularly from the clouds.
1
II 18.— Pai A to the Ferry.
A convenient road or path, which greatly facilitates the approach to the Ferry,
and forms an agreeable promenade ; it proceeds about half a mile in a direct line, when,
torning short round, it descends, in a safe and easy manner, to the margin of the river.
19. — Ferry.
About half a mile below the Horse-shoe, and a few rods below the Schlosser Fall, the
i'iTer, whicli is there 7(5 rods in width, is safely crossed in a small boat. Although the
water is considerably agitated, the ferrymen cross, without danger, at any time of the
day, in about five minutes ; but when the wind blows down the stream, the passengers
seldom escape without a complete soaking from the spray of the Falls, which descends
like rain. The comparative smoothness of the river so immediately after the Fall, is ac-
counted for by the great depth of the pool into which the cataract is precipitated, and
tiie sudden contraction of the river ; the descending water sinks down and forms an
under current, while a superficial eddy carries the upper stratum back to the Fall.
The banks of the river are here remarkably wild and striking, and the view from this
l^ce is of the most gorgeous description, and of most surpassing grandeur.
20. — Niagara County.
The banks of the strait, for a considerable portion of its course on the United States'
side, arc in the county of Niagara. The roads on both sides are separated from the pre-
cipitous banks, in many places, only by a narrow slip of woods, and the country around
is most beautiful, being a succession of fertile fields, orchards, and gardens.
At a short distance oelow the Falls is a small territory, belonging to the remnant of
the once-powerful tribe of Tuscarora Indians, who emigrated from North Carolina about
the beginning of the last century, at the invitation of the Five Nations, into whose con-
federacy (which then received the title of the Six Nations) they were received : they
htve a Protestant missionary resident amongst them, and many have voluntarily adopt-
ed Christianity : several of their farms are handsome aiid well cultivated. ^
19
22.Schlosser Fall.
The Fall on the United States' side, called the Fort Schlosser Fall, ia 167 feet in per.
pendicular height; and although it ia in reality 13 feet higher than the Great Fall, yet
from the Table Rock it appears otherwise. This is partly from the efiect of the per>
■pective, and partly from the accumulation of rocks below, upon which the water
breaks. The whole width of the Fall to Prospect Island is if!i4 feet. Its edge is ver^
much indented, and it appears to be gradually assuming the horse-shoe shape. It is
chafed to snowy whiteness by projecting rocks, which break its fall in several places to
two thirds of its descent ; but it does not approach in extent, sublimity, or awful beau-
ty, to the Great Crescent or liorse-shoe Fall.
About 64 rods above the crest of this Fall — and of course not seen in the present
view — are two bridges, of admirable construction, crossing the worst part of the Rapids
on this side, to Goat Island, which was before only accessible, at great personal risk, by
dropping down the river between the two currents : much boldness of conception, skill,
and intrenuity, were shown in the construction of this bridge, by its spirited projector,
Hon. Augustus Porter, the principal proprietor of tlie United States' side of the Falls.
23. — Prospect Island.
On the verge of the precipice, near Goat Island, Prospect Island cuts off a portion of
the waters, forming the Central Fall. This island is about 10 yards in width, and is
connected with Goat Island by a foot bridge. It is a romantic spot ; and from it is pre-
sented the best prospect (whence its name) of the Schlosser Fall which can any whero
be obtained.
24.— Fi'ffog'c of Niagara Falls.
The rapidly-increasing village of Niagara Falls (formerly called Manchester and
Grand Niagara) is situated at the FallH, on the United States' side. Two large hotels,
the £agle and Cataract, are kept here, and the foundation of a third, on a very extensive
scale, was laid in 1836. These hotels, as well as those on the Canada side, are crowded
with visitors during^ the travelling season ; and constant communication is kept up
with various ports Dy rail-roads and well-appointed stage-coaches. This village was
burnt by the British troops in 1813, and was rebuilt after the peace.
25.^ Central Fall.
This is a very picturesque cascade, — sometimes called the Ribbon Fall, and some-
times dignified with the title of the Montmorency Fall, — which, however insignificant it
may here appear, amid the mighty rush of waters, would rank high amongst European
Cataracts.
Behind this Fall, is a splendid cavern, (No. 20,) similar to that behind the great sheet of
water at Table Rock. It was never trodden by human feet previous to July, 1834, when
it was explored by Mr. Joseph W. Ingraham, of Boston, who gave it the very appropriate
name of "Cave of ^olus, or " Cave of the Winds," in allusion to that ^^muto rex
JEolu8 antra," described by Virgil. It is about 50 feet in breadth, from 100 to 150 feet
around its floor, and about 100 feet high, and furnishes one of the most splendid views
which the imagination can conceive. The visitor may easily pass several feet behind
this Fall, and gain a view of the cavern, from the path constructed in the rock, and
there, " standing, as he does, about midway in the descent of the Fall, he may look
up 80 feet, to iu arched and crystal roof, and down, 80 feet, upon its tenible, and
misty, and resounding floor. He will never forget that sight and soundr"
'{ ' * V