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Tous les autre' exemplaires originaux sont film6s en commen9ant par la premidre page qui comporte une empreinte d'impression ou d'illustration et en terminant par la dern>4re page qui comporte une telle empret.jte. Un des symboles suivants apparattra sur la dernlAre image dr cheque microfiche, selon !e cas: le symbols — ► signifie "A SUiVRE ". le symbols V signifie "FIN". Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc.. peuvent Atre fiimAs A des taux de rAduction diff Arents. Lorsque le document est trop grand pour Atre reproduit en un seul ciichA. 11 est filmA A partir de Tangle supArieur gauche, de gauche A droite. et de haut en bas. en prenant le nombre d'images nAcessaire. Las diagrammes suivants iilustrent la mAthode. 1 2 3 1 2 3 4 5 6 STRANGERS ANiO CITIZENS are cordially Invited to visit the store of BBADFOBD & ANTHONY, 374 Washingrton St. (opp. Bromfleld St.), Boston, IMFOBTERS AND DEALERS IN CUTLERY. FISHING-TACKLE. SKATES, AND FANCY HARD1¥ARE. Thrt^^^y^npt: t.h^^ ^i^t.^wiahroy^t, from basement tQ roof. are to be seen m any Nd Table Pookc Hcisso Bazoi METROPOLITAN TORONTO LIBRARY- s. ♦ ♦. ;< • Lancev fo- all 1 EYEB' Bradfoi fbr the the bei 37 Ca»a-i r I 'I 'i:;i .A, .,;-\ ■ J ■■■ 1 ; - 1 ' \ r, I \ , - I t ■ ..J. ! , ill" OTI;: re. j ("E*'' ■»^ .?^- •T. ^y K H'-^-l^-'Kl V- .'■■■♦-■ o: Jili v.: ■a: * ■::v.^ "■> ''{I ^!fi»M'wiJKti»JMwMMiltaMHMMMMi*liiitaMMHtai LJ__ 1 A^ iJ^ A m':m^^s:mm ! S*Bi ■^i^ ..UV J "^ \< 1, ^\ <: .•X*°\ L rvr ^ i <: MrffG •-J'W W.iaIi KOPI 3' ■vJlTe ^ ^SJ Ka«te LlJ il^:^-l> 09 Lon^lade Wegt e« faom GrconWi A -. >.-^ I fc » t . A^Hift h 01 IT i kS. P.O ^&M4 mii:^^ 7 o V. ) / r-' V . : ,t. ■%,', , / «fct. L»V' ,:>;,.,«3i3iS,. -^*..iwsa*^?»-.»ps! v«r ^ > 5 >/;)iS; THE IrITIME PROYINCES: 'handbook for travellers. A GUIDE TO OklEF CITIES, COASTS, AND ISLANDS OF THE MABITIME PROV- nrCES OF CANADA, AND TO THEIR SCENERY AND HISTORIC ATTRACTIONS ; WITH THE GULF AND RIVFR OF ST. LAWRENCE TO QUEBEC AND MONTREAL ; ALSO, NEWFOUNDLAND AND THE LABRADOR COAST. i With Four Maps and Four Plant. \^ Wf- BOSTON": JAMES R. OSGOOD AND COMPANY, Latb Tiokhob & Fields, and Fields, Osqood, & Co. 1875. Copyright, 1875. Bt JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO. fn, '^A I ^, ^. ^nJ r 0^ I ^^^C\' University Press: Welch, Bigelow, & Co., Cambridge. PREFACE. ^ The chief object of the Handbook to the Maritime Provinces is to supply the place of a guide in a land where professional guides cannot be found, and to assist the traveller in gaining the greatest possible amount of pleasure and infonnation whi^ passing through the most interesting portions of Eastern British America. The St. Lawrence Provinces have been hitherto casu- ally treated in books which cover wider sections of country (the best of which have long been out of print), and the Atlantic Provinces have as yet received but little attention of this kind. The present guide-book is the first whi^h has been devoted to their treatment in a combined form and according to the most approved principles of the European works of similar purpose and character. It also includes descriptions of the remote and interesting coasts of Newfoundland and Labrador, which have never before been mentioned in works of this character. The Handbook is designed to enable travellers to visit any or all of the notable places in the Maritime Provinces, with economy of money, time, and temper, by giving lists of the hotels with their prices, descriptions of the various routes by land and water, and maps and plans of the principal cities. The letter-press contains epitomes of the histories of the cities and the ancient settlements along the coast, statements of the principal scenic attractions, descriptions of the art and architecture of the cities, and statistics of the chief industries of the included Provinces. The brilliant and picturesque records and traditions of the early French and Scottish colonies, and the heroic exploits of the Jesuit missionaries, have received special attention in connection with the localities made famous in those remote days ; and the remarkable legends and mythology of the Micmac Indians are IV PREFACE. incorporated with the account'^ of the places made classic by them. The naval and military operations of the wars which centred on Port Royal, Louisbourg, and Quebec have been con- densed from the best authorities, and the mournful events which are commemorated in " Evangeline " are herein analyzed and recorded. The noble coast-scenery and the favorite summer- voyages with which the northern seas abound have been de- scribed at length in these pages. The plan and structTire of the book, its system of treatment and forms of abbreviation, have been derived from the European Handbooks of Karl Baedeker. The typography, binding, and system of city plans also resemble those of Baedeker, and hence the grand desiderata of compactness and portability, which have made his works the most popular in Europe, have also been attained in the present volume. Nearly all the facts concerning the routes, hoteL, and scenic attractions hrive been framed or verified from the Editor's personal experience, after many months of almost incessant travelling for this express purpose. But infallibility is impossible in a work of this nature, especial- ly amid the rapid changes which are ever going on in America, and hence the Editor would be grateful for any bona fde cor- rections or suggestions with which either travellers or residents may favor him. The maps and plans of cities have been prepared with the greatest care, and will doubtless prove of material service to all who may trust to their directions. They are based on the system of lettered and numbered squares, with figures corresponding to similar figures, attached to lists of the chief public buildings, hotels, churches, and notable objects. The hotels indicated by asterisks are those which are believed by the Editor to be the most comfortable and elegant. M. F. SWEETSER, Editor of Osgood's American Handbooks^ 131 Franklin St., Boston. ^ I II I) V] VII VIIl IS 2 Rotr 1 CONTENTS. ^p %■ PAGE , 1 I. Plan or Tour 2 II. Newfoundland and Labrador . ^ III. Money and Travellino Expenses \ * 4 IV. Railways and Steamboats * . 6 V. Round-Trip Excursions ' ^ VI. Hotels ' 7 VII. Language ' ^ g VIII. Climate and Dress * , 8 IX. Fishing ' ^ g X. Miscellaneous Notes NEW BRUNSWICK. BOUTE General Notes . 1. St. John 2. The Environs of St. John 1. Liiy Lake. Marsh Road Suspension Bridge Passamaquoddy Bay Passamaquoddy Bay 2. Mispeclr Road. 3. Carleton 3. St. John to Eastport and St. Stephen 1. Eastport 4. Grand Manan 5. St. John to St. Andrews and St. Stephen, 1. St. George. Lake Utopia 2. St. Andrews. Chamcook Mountain 3. St. Stephen. Schoodic Lakes 6. St. Andrews and St. Stephen to Woodstock and Houlton 7. St. John to Bangor 8. St. John to Fredericton. The St. John River . 1. Kennebecasis Bay 2. Belleisle Bay 3. Fredericton 4. Fredericton to Mlramichi Washademoak Lake Grand Lake 11. Fredericton to Woodstock 12. Fredericton to Woodstock, by the St. John River 13. Woodstock to Grand Falls and RiviJ:re bu Loup . 9. 10, 13 15 22 22 23 24 25 26 28 30 32 33 85 36 37 39 40 42 , 44 46 . 47 48 . 49 51 . 53 VI CONTENTS. BOTJTB PAGE 1, Tobique to Bathuret 54 2. The St. John to the Restigouche 56 8. The Madawaska District 57 4. The Maine Woods. Temiscouata Lake 58 14. St. John to Shediac 69 15. The Bay of Chaleur and the North Shore of New Brunswick 60 1. Chatham to Shippigan Gl 2. Shippigan. Bay of Chaleur 64 8. Bathurst to Caraquette 66 4. Campbeliton to St. Flavie 69 16. St. John to Amherst and Halifax 70 1. Quaco. Sussex Vale . . .71 2. Albert County. Moncton to Quebec 72 3. Dorchester. Sackville 73 NOVA SCOTIA. General Notes 75 17. St. John to Amherst and Halifax 78 1. Tantramar Marsh. Chignecto Peninsula 79 2. North Shore of Nova Scotia 81 18. St. John to Halifax, by the Annapolis Valley ... 83 1. Annapolis Royal 85 2. The Annapolis Valley 88 3. Kentville to Chester 90 19. Halifax 93 20. The Environs of Halifax 100 1. Bedford Basin. Point Pleasant 100 21. The Basin of Minas. Halifax to St. John 101 1. Advocate Harbor and Cape d'Or 103 2. The Basin of Minas 104 22. The Land of Evangeline 107 23. Annapolis Royal to Clare and Yarmouth 112 1. The Clare Settlements 113 2. The Tusket Lakes and Archipelago 115 24. DiOBY Neck 116 25. Halifax to Yarmouth. The Atlantic Coast op Nova Scotia . 117 1. Cape Sambro. Lunenburg 118 2. Liverpool 120 3. Shelburne 121 4. Cape Sable 123 26. Halifax to Yarmouth, by the Shore Route .... 126 1. Chester. Mahone Bay 127 2. Chester to Liverpool 128 27. The Liverpool Lakes 129 28. Halifax to Tangier 131 29. The Northeast Coast of Nova Scotia 133 30. Sable Island 134 ^ *» I CONTENTS. Yii PAGE 54 . 56 57 . 58 59 c 60 CI . 64 66 . 69 70 . 71 72 . 73 75 78 79 81 83 85 88 90 93 100 100 101 103 104 107 112 113 115 116 117 118 120 121 123 126 127 128 129 131 133 134 PAGE R0T7TE 1 *\(t 31. St. John and Halifax to Pictou . . . ' • ' * "° 82. St. John and Halifax to the Strait of Canso and Cape Breton 138 CAPE BRETON. 141 General Notes "' 142 33. The Strait of Canso 34. Arichat and Isle Madame 35. The Strait of Canso to Sydney, Cape Breton . . . .146 36. Halifax to Sitdney, Cape Breton 1^8 37. The East Coast of Cape Breton. The Sydney Coal-Fields . 152 38. The Fortress of Louisbourq 1^* 89, The North Shore of Cape Breton 1^3 1, St. Anne's Bay ^^^ 2. St. Paul's Island .160 40. The Bras d'Or Lakes ^^^ 1. Baddeck '^^ 2. Great Bras d'Or Lake 164 8. The Bras d'Or to Halifax 106 41. Baddeck to Mabou and Port Hood 167 1. St. Patrick's Channel. Whycocomagh . . . . . .167 42. The West Coast of Cape Breton 168 1, Port Hood. Mabou 169 2. Margaree. The Lord's Day Gale 170 PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. General Notes 172* 43. Shediac to Summerside and Charlottetown .... 174 1. The Northumberland Strait 174 44. Pictou to Prince Edward Island 175 45. Charlottetown 175 1, Environs of Charlotietown 177 46. Charlottetown to Summerside and Tionish. The Western Shores of Prince Edward Island 177 1. Rustico. Summerside 178 47. Charlottetown to Georgetown 180 48. Charlottetown to Souias 182 49. The Magdalen Islands 183 60. St. Pierre and Miquelon 185 ^ NEWFOUNDLAND. General Notes 187 51. Halifax to St. John's, Newfoundland 188 52. St. John's, Newfoundland 189 63. The Environs of St. John's 195 1, Portugal Cove. Logic Bay. Torbay 195 64. The Strait Shore of Avalon. St. John's to Cape Race . . 196 Vlll CONTENTS. BOUTB PAOI 1. The Grand Banks of Newfoundland 199 55. St. John's to Labrador. The Northerv Coast of NEWFOina>LAin> 200 1. Bonavista Bay 203 2. Twillingate. Exploits Island 205 66. St. John's to Conception Bay 206 67. Trinity Bay 208 58. The Bay of Notre Dame 210 59. Placentia Bay 212 60. The Western Outports. St. John's to Cape Ray . . . .213 1. Fortune Bay 214 2. Hermitage Bay 215 61. The French Shore. Cape Ray to Cape St. John ... 216 1. The Interior of Newfoundland 218 2. The Strait of Belle Isle 220 LABRADOR. General Notes 223 62. The Atlantic Coast, to the Moravian Missions and Greenland 224 1. The Moravian Missions 226 63. The Labrador Coast of the Strait of Belle Isle ... 227 64. The Labrador Coast of the Gulf of St. Lawrence . . .229 1. The Mingan Islands 231 2. The Seven Islands 232 65. Anticosti 234 PROVINCE OP QUEBEC. General Notes 235 66u PiCTOu TO Quebec. The Coasts of Gxspfi 238 1. Paspebiac 240 2. Perci 242 3. Gaspe 244 67. The Lower St. Lawrence 246 1. Father Point. Rimouski 250 2. Bic. Trois Pistoles 251 3. St Anne de la Pocatifere. L'Islet 253 68. Quebec 255 1. Durham Terrace 259 2. o ^suits' College. Basilica * . . 261 3. Seminary 262 4. Laval University. Parliament Building 263 5. H6tel Dieu. Around the Ramparts 266 a The Lower Town 271 69. The Environs of Quebec 276 1. Beauport Montmorenci Falls 276 2. Indian Lorette 278 3. Chateau Bigot. Sillery 280 4. Point Levi. Chandifere FaUs 282 71. 72. CONTENTS. Ix PACK . 199 nouin)LAin> 200 . 203 205 . 206 208 . 210 212 . 213 214 . 215 216 . 218 220 . 223 REENLAND 224 . 226 227 229 231 . 232 234 235 233 240 242 244 246 250 251 253 255 259 261 2C2 263 266 271 276 276 278 280 282 71. 72. BOUTE 70. QUEBEC TO La Bonne Ste. Anne .... 1. The Falls of St. Anne The Isle of Orleans Quebec to Cacouna and the Saouenav River 1. St Paul's Bay 2. Murray Bay 3. Cacouna 73. The Saguenay River 1. Tadousac 2. Chicoutimi 3. Ha Ha Bay. Lake St. John . 4. Eternity Bay. Cape Trinity Quebec to Montreal. The St. Lawrence River Montreal 1, Victoria Square. Notre Dame 2 The Gesi\. St. Patrick's Church 3. Cathedral. McGill University. Great Seminary 4. Hotel Dieu. Mount Royal. Victoria Bridge The Environs of Montreal. ... 1. Around the Mountain. Sault au Recollet . 2. Lachine Rapids. Caughnawaga . 3. Beloeil Mt. St. Anne 74. 75. 7(5. Index to Localities Index to Historical and Biographical Allusions Index ro Quotations Index to Railways and Steamboats . List of Authorities Consulted PAGE . 283 283 . 288 291 . 292 294 . 290 297 . 299 300 . 301 303 . 305 309 . 311 313 . 314 316 . 318 318 . 319 320 321 332 333 334 334 "A, ^ 2? f/^ i ^ K'irim ^ I ionNi '■no k'P 1 RmW. "'"f>; EMIM >y«r p !^ nl^ •flfj ^ 5 \ l-J Xs bdt T S 1 s < > 1 A- m fItWU 5 R >v, BW*»«'i//. 7.7/ -V.'/ 0»«i SI TJ MAPS. 1. Map op the Maritime TRoviNCEa : before title-page. 2. Map of Newfoundland and Labrador : after the index, a Map of the Acadian Land : between pages 106 and 107. 4 Map of the Saouenay River : between pages 290 and 297. b Map of the Lower St. Lawrence River : between pages 296 and 297. PLANS OP CITIES. 1. St. John : between pages 14 and 15. 2. Halifax : between pages 92 and 93. 3. Quebec : between pages 254 and 255. 4. Montreal : letween pages 308 and 309. ABBREVIATIONS. N. —North, Northern, etc. S. — South, etc. E. — East, etc. W. — West, etc. N. B. — New Brunswick. N. S. — Nova Scotia. N. P. — Newfoundland. Lab. — Labrador. P. E. I. — Prince Edward Island. P. Q. — Province of Quebec. M. — mile or miles. r. — right. 1.— left. ft. — foot or feet. hr. — hour. min. — miaute or minutes. Asterisks denote objects deserving of special attention. ^Sl INTRODUCTION. I. Flan of Tour. The most profitable course for a tourist in the Lower Provinces is to keep moving, and his route should be made to include as many as pos- sible of the points of interest which are easily accessible. There are but few places in this region where the local attractions are of sufficient inter- est to justify a prolonged visit, or where the accommodations for stran- gers are adapted to make such a sojourn pleasant. The historic and scenic beauties are not concentrated on a few points, but extend through- out the country, affording rare opportunities for jounieys whose general course may be replete with interest. The peculiar charms of the Mari- time Provinces are their history during the Acadian era and their noble coast scenery, — the former containing some of the most romantic episodes in the annals of America, and the latter exhibiting a marvellous blending of mountainous capes and picturesque islands with the blue northern sea. And these two traits are intertwined throughout, for there is scarce a promontory that has not ruins or legends of French fortresses, scarce a bay that has not heard the roaring broadsides of British frigates. The remarkable ethnological phenomena here presented are also cal- culated to awaken interest even in the lightest minds. The American tour- ist, accustomed to the homogeneousness of the cities and rural communi- ties of the Republic, may here see extensive districts inhabited by French- men or by Scottish Highlanders, preserving their national languages, cus- toms, and amusements unaffected by the presence and pressure of British influence and power. Of such are the districts of Clare and Madawaska and the entire island of Cape Breton. The people of the cities and the English settlements are quaintly ultra- Anglican (in the secular sense of the word), and follow London as closety as possible in all matters of cos- t\ime, idiom, and social manners. All these phases of provincial life and history afford subjects for study or amusement to the traveller, and may serve to make a summer voyage both interesting and profitable. Travelling has been greatly facilitated, within a few years, by the es- tablishment of railways and steamship routes throughout the Provinces. From the analyses of these lines, given in the following pages, the tourist 1 A 2 INTRODUCTION. will be able to compute the cost of liis trip, both in money and in time. The following tour would include a glimpse at the chief attractions of the country, and will serve to convey an idea of the time requisite : — Boston to St. John IJ days. St. John . , 1 St. John to Annapolis and Halifax .... 2 Halifax 1 Halifax to Sydney li The Bras d'Or Lakes Port Hawkesbury to Pictou, Charlottetown, and Shediac Shediac to Quebec (by steamer) Quebec Quebec to Boston Failures to connect 1 2 4 3 1 3 21 days. To this circular tour several side-trips may be added, at the discretion of the traveller. The most desirable among these are the routes to Pas- samaquoddy Bay, the St. John River, the Basin of Minas (to Parrsboro'), from Halifax to Chester and Mahone Bay, Whycocomagh, or Louisbourg (in Cape Breton), and the Saguenay River. Either of these side-trips will take from two to four days. If the tourist wishes to sojouin for several days or weeks in one place, the most eligible points for such a visit, outside of St. John and Halifax, are St. Andrews, Grand Manan, or Dalhousie, in New Brunswick ; An- napolis, Wolfville, Parrsboro', or Chester, in Nova Scotia ; Baddeck, in Cape Breton ; and, perhaps, Summerside, in Prince Edward Island. At each of these villages are small but comfortable inns, and the surround- ing scenery is attractive. II. Vewfoundland and Labrador. Extended descriptions of these remote northern coasts have been given in the following pages for the use of the increasing number of travellers wlio yearly pass thitherward. Tlie marine scenery of Newfoundland is the grandest on the North Atlantic coast, and here are all the varied phe- nomena of the northern seas, — icebergs, the aurora borealis, the herds of seals, the desolate and lofty shores, and the vast fishing-Heets from which France and the United States draw their best seamen. English and American yachtsmen grow more familiar every year with these coasts, and it is becoming more common for gentlemen of our Eastern cities to embark on tishing-schooners and make the voyage to Labrador or the Banks. The tourist can also reach the remotest settlements on the Labrador INTRODUCTION. h ad in time, tions of the h days. '\i Edward Bond, Ticket Agent of the Central Vennont R. R,, 148 Washing, ton St., Boston ; and from Stevenson and Leve, Passenger Agents of the Quebec and Gulf Ports S. S. Co., Quebec. Small books are issued tvery spring by these companies, each giving several hundred combinations of routes, with their prices. They may be obtained on application, in person or by letter, at the above-mentioned offices. The excursion tickets are good during the season, and have all the privileges of first-class tickets. The following tours, selected from the books of the three companies (for 1874), will serve to convey an idea of the pecuniary expense incurred in a trip through the best sections of the Maritime Provinces. The Central Vermont R. R. — (Excursion 139.) International steam- ship, Boston to St. John ; St. John to Halifax, by the Annapolis route ; Halifax to Pictou, by the Intercolonial Railway; Pictou to Quebec, by the Q. & G. P. steamships (meals and state-room extra) ; Quebec to Mon- treal, by the Richelieu steamer, or the Grand Trunk Railway ; Quebec to Boston, by the Central Vermont R. R. Fare, $34.50; or if the Eastern Railroad is preferred between Boston and St. John, $36.50. Boston to Portland, by Eastern R. R. ; N. E. & N. S. S. S. Co. to Hali- fax ; Halifax to Point du Chene, by the Intercolonial Railway ; Point du Chene to Quebec, by Q. & G. P. S. S. Co. ; Quebec lo Montreal, by rail- way or steamer ; Montreal to Boston, by the Central Vermont R. R. Fare, $33.35. Boston to Montreal, by Central Vt. R. R. and connections ; Montreal to Quebec, by railway or steamer ; Quebec to Point du Chene, by Q. & G. P. steamship ; Point du Chene to St. John, by Intercolonial Railway ; St. John to Boston, by International steamship. Fare, $29.15. Eastern R. R. — Boston to St. John, by rail ; St. John to Point du Chene, by Intercolonial Railway ; Point du Chene to Quebec, by Quebec and Gulf Ports S. S. Co. ; Quebec to Boston, by Grand Trunk and East- em Railways. Fare, $35.65. Boston to St. John and Shediac, by rail; Shediac to Summerside, Char- lottetown, and Pictou, by steamship ; Pictou to Halifax, by rail ; Halifax to St. John, by the Annapolis route ; St. John to Boston, by rail. Fare, $34.10. Boston to Portland, by rail ; Portland to St. John, by steamer ; St. John to Halifax, by Annapolis route ; Halifax to St. John, by Intercolo- nial Railway ; St. John to Boston, by rail. Fare, $ 26.50. Quebec and O f Ports S. S. Co. — Boston to Pictou, by the Boston and Colonial S. S. Co. ; Pictou to Quebec, by the Q. & G. P. S. S. Co. Fare, $ 21 ; fare from Quebec to Boston, $ 10. Boston to Halifax, by Boston and Colonial S. S. Co. ; Halifax to St. John, by the Annapolis route ; St. John to Point du Chene, by Inter- colonial Railway ; Point du Chene to Quebec, by Q. & G. P. S. S. Co. Fare, $26.50. INTRODUCTION. Washing, its of tlie ued tvery nations of in person ickets are ss tickets, tanies (for urred in a lal steam- is route; Juebec, hy !C to Mon- Quebec to »e Eastern >. to Hali- Point du 1, by rail- )nt R. R. Montreal i, by Q. & Railway ; Point du )y Quebec and East- ide, Char- ; Halifax 1. Fare, mer; St. ntercolo- B Boston 5. S. Co. x to St. y Jnter- 3. S. Co. Boston to Portland, by Eastern R. R. ; Portland to «t. John, by Inter- national S. S. Co. ; St. John to Point du Chene, by Intercolonial Rail- way ; Point du Chene to Quebec, by Q. & G. P. S. S. Co. Fare, $ 19. 71. Hotels. The Hotels of the Maritime Provinces are far behind the age. The Victoria Hotel, at SI. John, is the only first-class house in the four Prov- inces, though the two chief hotels at Halifax are comfortable. Tlio Island Park Hotel, at Summerside, P. E. I., is the only summer resort of any consequence. The general rates at the better hotels of the second class is $2 a day ; and the village inns and country taverns charge from $ 1 to $ 1.50, with reductions for boarders by the week. YII. Language. The English language will be found sufficient, unless the tourist desires to visit the more remote districts of Cape Breton, or the Acadian Sittle- ments. The Gaelic is probably the predominant language on Cape Breton, but English is also spoken in the chief villages and fishing-communities. In the more secluded farming-districts among the highlands the Gaelic tongue is more generally used, and the tourist may sometimes find whole •families, not one of whom can speak English. In the villages along the Lower St. Lawrence, and especially on the North Shore, the French language is in common use, and English is nearly unknown. The relation of this language to the polite French speech of the present day is not clearly understood, and it is frequently stigmatized by Americans as "an unintelligible patois." This state- ment is erroneous. The Canadian French has borrowed from the Eng- lish tongue a few nautical and political terms, and has formed for itself words describing the peculiar phenomena and conditions of nature in the new homes of the people. The Indians have also contributed numerous terms, descriptive of the animals and their habits, and the operations of forest-life. But the interpolated words are of rare occurrence, and the language is as intelligible as when brought from the North of France, two centuries ago. It is far closer in its resemblance to the Parisian speech than are the dialects of one fourth of the departments of France. Trav- ellers and immigrants from Old France find no difficulty in conversing with the Lower-Canadians, and the aristocracy of Quebec speak as pure an idiom as is used in the Faubourg St. Germain. Among others whose testimony has been given in support of this fact, the Editor would adduce a gentleman whom he recently met in Canada, and who was an officer in the Imperial Guard until its capture in the Franco-Prussian war. He stated that neither he nor any of his compatriots, who came over after the triumph of Germany, had ever had any difficulty with the Canadian language, and that he had not yet learned a word of English. m 8 INTRODUCTION. -ill li ii'i " II " II This language has an extensive and interesting literature, which in- cludes science, theology, history, romance, and poetry. It has also numerous newspapers and magazines, and is kept from adulteration by the vigilance of several colleges and a powerful university. It is used, co-ordinately with the English language, in the records and journals of the Dominion and Provincial Parliaments, and speeches and pleadings in French are allowable before the Parliaments and courts of Canada. Thus much to prove the substantial identity of the Lower-Canadian and French languages. The tourist who wishes to ramble through the an- cient French-Canadian districts will, therefore, get on very well if he has travelled much in Old France. But if the language is unknown to him, he will be subjected to many inconveniences and hardships. VIII. Climate and Dress. The more northerly situation of the Maritime Provinces and their vicin- ity, on so many sides, to the sea, render the climate even more severe and uncertain than that of New England. T^e extremes of heat and cold are much farther apart than in the corresponding latitudes of Europe, and, as Marmier expresses it, this region "combines the torrid climate of southern regions with the severity of an hyperborean winter." During the brief but lovely summer the atmosphere is clear and balmy, and vegetation flourishes amaino The winters are long and severe, but ex- ercise no evil effect on the people, nor restrain the merry games of the youths. Ever since Knowles sent to England his celebrated dictum that the climate of Nova Scotia consisted of " nine months of winter and three months of fog," the people of Britain and America have had highly ex- aggerated ideas of the severity of the seasons in the Provinces. Tliese statements are not borne out by the facts ; and, though Nova Scotia and New Brunswick have not the mild skies of Virginia, their coldest weather is surjiassed by the winters of the Northwestern States. Tlie meteorological tables and the physical condition of the people prove that the climate, though severe, is healthy and invigorating. The time has gone by for describing these Provinces as a gloomy land of frozen Hyper- boreans, and for decrying them with pessimistic pen. The worst annoyance experienced by tourists is the prevalence of dense fogs, which sometimes sweep in suddenly from the sea and brood over the cities. In order to encounter such unwelcome visitations, and also to be prepared against fresh breezes on the open sea, travellers should be pro- vided with heavy shawls or overcoats, and woollen underclothing should be kept at hand. IX. Fishing. " Anglers in the United States who desire to fish a salmon-river in the Dominion of Canada should club together and apply for the fluvial paita ^ INTRODUCTION. 9 ■which in- ' has also teration by It is used, journals of pleadings 'anada. nadian and gh the an- 1 if he has wn to him, their vicin- severe and «d cold are irope, and, climate of During almy, and •e, but ex- mes of the ictum that ■ and three highly ex- is. These >va Scotia ir coldest ■tes. The irove tlint time has sn Hyper- ! of dense [ over the vlso to be 1 be pro- g should er in the ial paitd of rivers The government leases the rivers for a term of nine years, and rivers unlet on the first day of each year are advertised by the gov- ernment to be let to the highest bidders. The places of residence of those tendering for fishings are not considered in letting a river ; and if a gen- tleman from the States overbids a Canadian, the river will be declared as his. Rivers are therefore hired by Europeans as well as by Canadians and citizens of the States Rivers are either let in whole or parts, each part permitting the use of a given number of rods, generally four. Parties who desire to lease a Canadian river should address a letter to the Minister of Marine and Fisheries, at Ottawa, stating how many rods they have, and the district which they prefer to fish. He will forward them a list of the leasable rivers, and a note of information, upon which they should get some Canadian to make the tender for them. The leases of fluvial parts of rivers vary from two to six hundred dollars a year for from three to eight rods, and the price for guides or gaffers is a dollar a day." (This subject is fully discussed in Scott's " Fisliing in American Waters.") " The Game Fish of the Northern States and British Provinces," by R>>bert B. Roosevelt (published by Carleton, of New York, in 1865), contains an account of the salmon and sea-trout fishing of Canada and New Brunswick. The pursuit of sea-trout on the Lower St. Lawrence and Laval is described in pages 50-88 and 315-321; the Labrador rivers, pages 107 - 111 ; the Miraniichi and Nepisiguit Rivers, pages 111 - 145 ; the Schoodic Lakes, pages 145-147. " Fishing in American Waters," by Genio C. Scott (published by Har- per and Brothers, 1869), contains practical directions to sportsmen, and graphic descriptions of fishing in the rivers of New Brunswick and Lower Quebec. " Frank Forester's Fish and Fishing of the United States and British Provinces of North America," by H. W. Herbert (New York, 1850), is to a large extent technical and scientific, and contains but a few incidental allusions to the provincial fisheries. " The Fishing Tourist," by Charles Hallock (published by Harper and Brothers, 1873), contains about 100 pages of pleasant descriptions relat- ing to the Schoodic Lakes, the best trout and salmon streams of Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and Cape Breton, the Bay of Chaleur, the Sague- nay and Lower St. Lawrence, Anticosti, and Labrador. IX. Miscellaneous Notes. The times of departure of the provincial steamships are liable to change every season. The tables given in the ensuing routes are based on those of 1874, and the changes for 1875 are indicated so far as the Editor has been able to learn tliem. The tourist can find full particulars of the days 1* 10 INTRODUCTION. of sailing, etc., on arriving at St. John, from the local and the Halifax newspapers. The names of the agents of these lines have also been given liereinafter, and further information may be obtained by writing to their addresses. Tlie custom-house formalities at the national frontiers depend less upon the actual laws than upon the men who execute them. The examinatioH of baggage is usually conducted in a lenient manner, but trunks and packages are sometimes detained on account of the presence of too many Canadian goods. It is politic, as well as gentlemanly, for the tourist to afford the officers every facility for the inspection of his baggage. Travellers are advised to carefully inspect the prices of goods offered them by shop-keepers, since the lavish and unquestioning extravagance of American tourists has somewhat influenced the tone of commercial morality. The people of the Provinces are generally courteous, and are willing to answer any civilly put questions. The inhabitants of the more remote districts are distinguished for their hospitality, and are kindly disposed and honest. 1 ^ le Halifax [been given ig to their leas upon aniinatioH trunks and too many tourist to ;e. |ods offered :travagance commercial 3 willing to lore remote ly disposed ROUTES FROM BOSTON TO THE MARITIME PROVINCES. 1. By Rnilway. The Eastern and Maine Central R. R. Lines afford the best mode of ap- proach by land. Their trains leave the terminal station on Causeway St., Boston, and run through to Bangor, without change of cars. Pullman cars are attached to the through trains, and tickets are sold to nearly all points* in the Eastern Provinces. At Bangor passengers change to the cars of the European & North American R. R., which runs E. through the great forests of Maine and New Brunswick to the city of St. John. Between Boston and Portland this route traverses a peculiarly interesting country, with frequent glimpses of the sea; but the country between Bangor and St. John is almost devoid of attractions. The Boston m other n. The he shall ravelled some of ;able. MARITIME-PROVINCES HANDBOOK. NEW BRUNSWICK. The Province of New Brunswick is situated nearly in the centre of the North Temperate Zone, and is bounded by Maine and Quebec on the W., Quebec and the Bay of Chaleur on the N., the Gulf of St. Lawrence and the Northumberland Strait on the E., and Nova Scotia and the Bay of Fundy on the S. It is 140 M. long from E. to W., and 190 M. from N. to S., and contains 27,106 square miles. The direct coast-line (exclusive of indentations) is 410 M., which is nearly equally divided between the S. and E. shores, and is broken by many fine harbors. The Bay of Fundy on the S., and the Bay of Chaleur on the N., are of great size and com- mercial importance, — the former being 140 M. long by 30-50 M. wide; the latter being 90 M. long by 10 - 25 M. wide. The fisheries in the great " bays and in the Gulf are of immense value, employing many thousand men, and attracting large American fleets. They have furnished suste- nance to the people of the maritime counties, and have been the occasion of developing a race of skilful mariners. During the past 50 years 6,000 vessels have been built in this Province, valued at nearly $80,000,000. The lumber business is conducted on a vast scale on all the rivers, and the product amounts to $4,000,000 a year. The country is generally level, and is crossed by low ridges in the N. and W. There are numerous lakes, whose scenery is generally of a sombre and monotonous character. The interior is traversed by the rivers St. John, Restigouche, Miramichi, Petitcodiac, Nepisiguit, and Richibucto, which, with their numerous tributaries, afford extensive facilities for boat- navigation. The river-fisheries of New Brunswick are renowned for their »j variety and richness, and attract many American sportsmen. There are 14,000,000 acres of arable land in the Province, a great por- tion of which has not yet been brought into cultivation. The intervales of the rivers contain 60,000 acres, and are very rich and prolific, being fertilized by annual inundations. The chief agricultural products are wheat, buckwheat, barley, oats, potatoes, butter, and cheese ; but farming operations are still carried on in an antiquated and unscientific manner. The climate is less inclement on the Bay of Fundy than farther inland. The mean temperature for the last ten years at St. John was, for the #tei winter, 17^°; spring, 87^*; summer, 58°; autumn, 441". The thermom- 1: I Y 14 NEW BRUNSWICK. eter ranges between —22' and 87" as the extremes marked during past ten years. The present domain of New Brunswick was formerly occupied by distinct nations of Indians. The Micmacs were an oflslioot of the Al quln race, and inhabited all the sea-shore regions. They were pow and hardy, and made daring boatmen and fishermen. The Milicetesi from the Huron nation, and inhabited the St. John valley and the inl forests, being skilful in hunting and all manner of woodcraft. They i less numerous and warlike than the Micmacs. Both tribes had a sin and beautiful theology, to which was attached a multitude of qu mythological legends. This region was included in the ancient domain of Acadie (or Acat which was granted to the Sieur De Monts by King Henri IV. of Frai in 1603. De Monts explored the St. .John River, and planted an epheni colony on the St. Croix, in 1604. From 1635 until 1645 the St. John R was the scene of the feudal wars between La Tour and Chamisay. 01 Cromwell sent an expedition in 1654, which occupied the country; it was restored to France by Charles II. in 1670. After the war of 16 97, this region was again confirmed to France, and its W. boundary \ located at the St. George River, W. of Penobscot Bay. Meantime shores of the Bay of Chaleur and the Gulf of St. Lawrence had been i tied by the French, between 1639 and 1672. The New-En glanders invai the Province in 1703, and in 1713 Acadia was ceded to England. The French lir lited the cession to Nova Scotia, and fortified the line the Missiguash River, to protect the domains to the N. In 1755 a m expedition from Boston took these forts, and also the post at St. Jol and in 1758 the whole Province was occupied by Anglo-American troc In 1763 it was surrendered to England by the Treaty of Versailles. The Americans made several attacks on northern Acadia during Revolutionary War, but were prevented from holding the country by British fleets at Halifax. At the close of the war many thousands American Loyalists retired from the United States to this and the adjoj ing countries. In 1784 New Brunswick was organized as a Provini having been previously dependent on Nova Scotia; and in 1788 the en tal was established at Fredericton. Immigration from Great Britain ni commenced, and the forests began to give way before the lumbermen. 1839 the Province called out its militia on the occasion of the bounda disputes with Maine; and in 1861 it was occupied with British troops account of the possibility of a war with the United States about the Trt affair. In 1866 New Brunswick refused, by a popular vote, to enter t Dominion of Canada, but it accepted the plan the next year, and becai a part of the Dominion in 1867. The population of New Brunswick was 74,176 in 1824, 154,000 in 18* and 285,777 in 1871. les marked durlnJ •merly occupied bv \ offshoot of the A\ . They were pow ■n. The Milicetes n valley and the inl ivoodcraft. They >th tribes had a sin a. multitude of qu of Acadie (or Acjk ? Henri IV. of Frai I planted an epheni 1645 the St. John E nd Chamisay. Oli )ied the country; ifter the war of 16! its W. boundary Bay. Meantime iwrence had been iv-Englanders invai to England, d fortified the line ! N. In 1755 a m he j^ost at St. Jol glo- American troo of Versailles. 1 Acadia durinjr g the country by many thousands this and the adjo ized as a Provin ind in 1788 the ca n Great Britain xu the lumbermen on of the bounda th British troops ites about the Tn ir vote, to enter t :t year, and becai 24, 154,000 in 181 •»•> ;;••'■'■ I I 34. City Hall B. 2. 35. Market U. 3. 36. Martello Tower ' A. 3. 37. Lunatic Asylum A. i. 38. Church of the Assumption A. 3. 39. St. Jude's A. 4. 40. St. tJcorge's A. 2 23. Victoria 24. Harncs'i 15. Wavcrle 26. Royal, 27. Internal 28. Park, . . L. I >n, ....B. 2 ....U. 3 ....A.3 .. ..A. 1 ....A.3 ,...A.4 , ... A. 2 HOTELS. . 23. Victoria D. 3. 24. Barnes's D. 3. i$. Wavcrley I). 3. «6. Royal, I). 3- 27. International D. 3. 28. Park E. 3. 3- 4- 5. 6. 7- 8. 9- ij. II. 12. IS- M- 'S- 16. 17- 18. 19- 20. 21. 22. Marine Hospital, D. 4. City Hospital F. 2. Wijjgins Asylum L). 4. Cemetery, li- 3. Kinjj's Sijuare E. 3. Queen's Square D. 4. Cathedral E. 2, 3. Trinity Church D. 3. St. I'aul's E. 2. St. John's E. 2. St. Andrew's 0.3. Intercolonial Station E. 2. E. & N. A. Station C. 3. ft ST. JOHN. Route 1. 15 I L St John. Arrival from the Sea. — Soon after passing Negro Head, the stumer runs in by Partridge Island, the round and rocky guard of the harbor of St. John. Its precipitous sides are seamed with deep clefts and narrow chasms, and on the up- land are seen the Quarantine Hospital, the buildings of the steam fog-horn and the lizhthouse, and the ruins of a cliff battery. On the 1. is the bold headland of Nesrotown Point, crowned by dilapidated earthworks. The course now leads in by the Beacon-light (1. side), with the Martello Tower on Carleton Heights, and the high-placed St, Jude's Church on the 1. In front are the green slopes and barrr ks of the Military Grounds, beyond which are the populous hills of St. John. Hotels. — The * Victoria, corner of Duke and Germain Sts., is the best hotel in the Maritime Provinces. It is centrally located, and accommodates 300 guests ; terms, $ 3 a day. Barnes's Hotel, Prince William St., near Princess St ; the Waver- ley, King St., near King Square ($2 a day) ; the Royal, 146 Prince William bt; the International, corner of Prince William and Duke Sts. The Park and the Conti- nental are comfortable hotels fronting on King Square, near which are several smaller houses. The American is a second-class hotel on lower King St. ; the Bay View is on Prince William St., near Reed's Point. Amusements. -Theatrical performances and other entertainments are fre- quently given at the Academy of Music, on Germain St., near Duke St, The Academy can accommodate 2,000 people. Tjectures and concerts aie given in the hall of the Mechanics' Institute, near the head of Germain St. Varieties and min- strels at Lee's Opera-House, on Dock St. Rcading-Ronmg. — The Young Men's Christian Association, on Charlotte St. , near King Square ; open from 9 a, m. until 10 P. M. The Mechanics' Institute, near the head of Germain St., has an extensive variety of British papers on file. Carriages. — For a course within the city, 30c. for one passenger, 10c. for each additional one. For each half-hour, 50c. If the river is crossed tlie passenger pays the toll, wliich is, for a double carriage, 15c. each way by ferry, 20c by the bridge. Horse-ears run from Market Square through Dock and Mill Sts., to the ter- minus of the river steamboat-Unes, at Indiantown (fare, 5c.). Railways. —The European and North American Railway runs W. to Bangor in 206 M., connecting there with the Maine Central and Eastern lines for Boston, 449 M. from St. John. The same road also has a branch to Fredericton. The In- tercolonial Railway runs E. to Shediac, Truro, and Halifax (276 M. ). Steamships. — The Temperley and other lines run steamships occasionally between St. John and Liverpool, or London. The steamship Linda leaves St. John every Friday evening for Boston, touching at Yarmouth, N, S, The International Steamship Company despatches one of their vessels every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday morning, at 8 o'clock, for Boston, touching at Eastportand Portland, and connecting with a steamer for St, Andrews and St, Stephen. A steamer leaves the Reed's Point Wharf, at 8 a.m., every Thursday and ^iturday, for St. George, St. Andrews, and St. Stephen (calling at Beaver Harbor on Saturdays). The Empress crosses the Bay of Fundy to Digby and Annapolis, on Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday, at 8 A. m., connecting at Annapolis with the railway for Halifax. A steamer leaves the Reed's Point Wharf every Tuesday evening for Parrsboro', Wind- sor, and the ports on the Basin of Minas. St John River Lines. — The David Weston^ot the Union Line, leaves Indiantown on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, at 9 a. M., for Fredericton and the interme- diate landings. The Rothesay, of the Express Line, leaves Indiantown Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, at 9 a. M., for Fredericton and the intermediate landings. The May Queen leaves Indiantown on Wednesday and Saturday, at 8 a. h., for Oagetown and Grand Lake. The Star leaves Indiantown on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, at 10 a. m., Ibr Cole's Island and the Washndcmoak Lake. The Carleton ferry-steamers leave the foot of Princess St. every 15 minutes until 9.30 P. M. Fare, 3c. ; for oue-horse carriages, 9c. ; for two-horse carriages, 15c. 16 Jtoute 1. ST. JOHN. % t! ''-\ St. John, the chief city of the Province of New Brunswick and the commercial metropolis of the Bay of Fundy, occupies a commanding position at the mouth of the St. John River. From its favorable situation for the purposes of commerce it has been termed " the Liverpool of Amer- ica " (a claim, however, which Halifax stoutly combats, and which should be limited at least to " the Liverpool of Canada"). The city has 28,805 inhabitants (census of 1871), and the contiguous suburb of Portland has 12,520 more. The ridge upon which it is built is composed of solid rock, through which streets have been cut at great expense; and the plan of the streets is regular, including a succession of rectangular squares. The general appearance of the city is, however, somewhat uneve^,. and dingy, owing to the difference in the size of the buildings and to the absence of paint. The harbor is good, and is kept free from ice by the high tides of the Bay of Fundy and the sweeping current of the St. John River. It is usually well filled with shipping, and the shores are lined with wharves and mills. The '.illl-country in the vicinity is barren but picturesque, and affords a variety of pleasing marine views. Since 1853 the water supply of the city has been drawn from Little River, and the works have a daily capacity of 5,500,000 gallons. The fire department has 3 steam-engines, but is seldom called into service. Thei-e arc 26 churches in St. John and Portland, of which the Baptists claim precedence in point of numbers- There are 4 banks, and 4 daily and several weekly newspapers. King Street is the main business street of the city, and runs from the harbor across the peninsula to Courtenay Bay. AH the principal shops are on this street, between the harbor and King Square, and along Prince William St., which intersects it near the water. At the foot of the street is the Market Slip, into which the light packet-boats and produce-vessels from the adjacent rural counties bring wood and provisions for the use of the city. At low tide, these vessels are, for the most part, left to hold themselves up on the muddy flats. At this point landed the weary and self-exiled American Loyalists, in 1783, and founded the city of St. John. The rather dreary breadth of King St. is occupied in its lower part by wagoners and unemployed workmen. From this point the street ascends a steep hill, passing the telegraph-office, police-court, and several banks and hotels. King Square is entered through a pretentious " tri- umphal arch" of wood, which was erected in honor of Prince Arthur's visit, and has since been utilized for sustaining the fire-alarm bell. The Square is an open space of about 3 acres in area, studded with young trees, and adorned in the centre with a small fountain. To the E. is the County Market, a narrow street filled with rude stalls. A few steps N. W. of the Squai-e (on Charlotte St.) is the new and handsome building of the Young Men's Christian Association, containing a large hall, gymnasium, parlors, and class-rooms. The library and reading-room are open daily (except Sunday) from A. m. to 10 p. m., and strangers are welcomed. •-"^■J ST. JOHN. Route J. 17 wick and the commanding Irable situation |rpool of Amer- which should ity has 28,805 Portland has of solid rock, the plan of the squares. The ei. and dingy, Jthe absence of 3 high tides of n River. It Is with wharves cturesque, and 3 water supply ^s have a daily steam-engines, [1 St. John and it of numbers. )ers. '. runs from the )rincipal shops d along Prince )t of the street Toduce-vessels ns for the use t part, left to ied the weary the city of St. i in its lower oint the street t, and several tentious " tri- ince Arthur's ■m bell. The 1 with young ) the E. is the iv steps N. W. lailding of the gymnasium, ■e open daily re welcomed. The building cost $38,000, and was dedicated in 1872, but subsequently gave signs of instability, and has since been strengthened at considerable expense. The County Court House and Jail arc at the S. E. corner of King Square, and are antiquated and homely stone buildings. To the E. is tlie Old Burying-Ground, containing the graves of the pioneers of the Province, with epitaphs in many cases quaint and interesting. Trinity Church is on Germain St., near Princess St., and is a large and plain wooden building with a spire and clock-tower. It was built in 1788, and has had subsequent additions and enlargements. The roof is sustained by two lines of wooden columns, of the Doric order ; and the walls are adorned with mural tablets and with the Royal Arms which formerly be- longed to Trinity Church in New York, and was brought here by the Loy- alists in 1783, having been rescued from the New York church during the great fire of 1776. Beyond Trinity is St. Andrew's Church (Presbyterian), with its quaint interior, by the side of '^t. ;ch rise the lofty walls of the Victoria Hotel. By ascending the next street (Queen) to the 1., Queen Square is reached, — a carelessly kept park surrounded with dwelling- houses. A short distance to the E., on St. James Street, is the Wiggins Male Orphan Institution, a new building in Gothic architecture, of red and gray sandstone. It is the most elegant and symmetrical structure of its size in the Province, and cost over $ 100,000, but is only adequate to the accommodation of 30 orphans. The Marine Hospital is in this vicinity. A short walk out Sydney St. or Caermarthen St. leads to the Military Grounds, on the extreme S. point of the peninsula. Here is a spacious parade-ground, which is now used only by the cricket and base-ball clubs, and barracks for the accommodation of 2,000 soldiers. These grounds were formerly occupied by large detachments from the British army, whose officers were a desired acquisition to the society of the city, while the military bands amused the people by concerts on Queen Square. From the Military Grounds is obtained a series of views of the harbor and bay, with Partridge Island near at hand in the foreground. Prince William Street runs S. from Market Square to Reed's Point, and is one of the chief thoroughfares of the city, containing several hotels and some of the largest shops. Where it crosses Princess St., the Carleton ferry is seen to the r., and on the 1. is Ritchie's Building, the headquarters of lawyers and Freemasons. At the S. W. corner of Prince William and Princess Sts. is the new * Fost-Office, an elegant building of gray sand- stone, ornamented with columns of the polished red granite of St. George. It is surmounted by a clock tower 100 ft. high. The next building, with a classic front and one wing, is occupied by the Bank of New Brunswick, beyond which is the Custom House, a plain and massive stone building, which dales from 1 842. It is 250 ft. long, and contains several of the provincio- national o ices, and a storai-signal station which receives warn- l! :iS; !l 18 Jioute 1. ST. JOHN. ings from " Old Probabilities " at Washington. The street ends at Reetti Point, the headquarters of several lines of coasting-steamers, whence may be seen the Breakwater, W. of the Military Grounds. At the N. end of Germain St. is the oh Stone Church, a sanctuary of the Episcopalians under the invocation of St. John. Its square stone tower is visible for a long distance, on account of the elevation of the site on which it stands. Nearly opposite is the brick Calvin Church (Presby- terian); and in the same vicinity is the classic wooden front of the Mt- chanics' Institute, which has a large hall, and is the domicile of one of the city schools. The reading-room is supplied with Canadian and British newspapers, and the library contains about 7,000 volumes (open from 2^ to 5 o'clock). From this point roads descend to the water-side and to the railway station in the Valley. The Roman Catholic ^CathcJral is situated on Waterloo St., and is the largest church in the Province. It is constructed of marble and sand- stone, in pointed architecture, and has a tall and graceful stone spire. The interior is in a style of the severest simplicity, the Gothic arches of the clere-story being supported on plain and massive piers. The windows are of stained glass, and are very brilliant and rich. The chancel and transept windows are large and of fine design ; a rose window is placed over the organ-loft; and the side windows represent Saints Bernard, Dominic, Ambrose, Jerome, Mark, Matthew, Andrew, Benedict, Francis, John, Luke, Augustine, and Gregory. The building is 200 ft. long, and 110 ft. wide at the transepts. The Bishop' s Palace is the fine sandstone building towards Cliff St., beyond which is the extensive building of the Orphan Asylum, fronting on Cliff St. On the other side of the Cathedral is the plain brick building of the Nunnery. The visitor should notice, over the Cathedral portal adjacent to the Nunnery, the great marble bas-relief of the Last Supper (after Leonardo Da Vinci's painting at Milan). From this point Waterloo St. descends to the Marsh Bridge, at the head of Courtenay Bay. By ascending Cliff St. for a short distance, a point may be reached from which are seen the Valley, with its churches and streets, and the embowered villas on Portland Heights, over which Reed's Castle is prominent. The General Public Hospital is situated on a bold rocky knoll which overlooks the Marsh Valley, and is entered from Waterloo St. It consists of a large brick building with one wing, and accommodates 80 patients. The structure pertains to the city, and was erected in 1865 at a cost of $64,000. Directly below the precipitous sides of the knoll on which it is built is the broad Marsh, covered with houses, and extending on the r. to Courtenay Bay. The geologists entertain a plausible theory that in remote ages the St. John River flowed down this valley from the Kenne- becasis to the sea, until finally the present channel through the Narrows was opened by some convulsion of nature. f ST. JOHN. lioute 1. 19 1 nds at -RcecTj whence may sanctuary of square stone on of the site 'irch (Presby. t of the .lie- of one of the and British en from 1\ to e and to the )o St., and is 'ble and sand- stone spire, hie arches of The windows chancel and is placed over !vrd, Dominic, rancis, John, I g, and 110 ft. 5tone building >f the Orphan ;hedral is the >tice, over the ! bas-relief of 0. 3, at the head ance, a point churches and vhich Reed's knoll which • It consists < 80 patients. ► at a cost of n which it Is ing on the r. leory that in 1 the Kennc- the Narrows That subutb which is known as the Valley lies between the rocky hills of the city proper and the line of the Portland Heights. It is reached from King Square by Charlotte and Cobourg Sts., and contains the tracks and station of the Intercolonial Railway. The most prominent object in the Valley is St. Paul's Church (Episcopal), a graceful wooden edifice with transepts, a clere-story, and a tall spire. The windows are of stained glass. The brick church of St. Stephen and the white Zion Church (Reformed Episcoprl) are also situated in the Valley, and the road to Lily Lake di- verges to the r. from the latter. Farther to the E., on the City Road, is the^Skatiny Rink, a round wooden building, IGO ft, in diameter, covered with a domed roof. This is the favorite winter resort of the aristocracy of St. John, and strangers can gain admission only by introduction from one of the directors. The site of St. John was the Menagwes of ancient Micmac tradition, where tho divine Glooscap once had his lionie. Hence, during Ins absence, his attendants were carried away b}- a powerful evil magician, who lied with them to Grand Manan, Cape Breton, and Newfoundland, where he was pursued by Glooscap, who rode much of the way on the backs of whales which he called in from the deep sea. Passing through Cape Breton, he at length reached the dark Newfoundland shores, where he assumed such a stature that the clouds rolled about his head. Tlie evil- doing wizard was soon found and put to death and the servants of Glooscap were set free. "he site of St. John was discovered by Champlain and De Monts, on St. John's Da (June 24), 1604, but was not occupied for 30 years after. Clauds de la Tour, a Huguenot noble, was one of the earliest of tho French adven- turers in this region, and received a grant of all Acadia from Charles I. of England. After his repulse and humiliation (see Route 25), the French government divided Acadia into three provinces, placing there as governors, M. Denys, Razilly, and tho young and chivalrous Charles de St. Estionnc, Lord of La Tour (son of Claude). Denys contented himself with the ocean-fishuries from Canso and Cape Breton. Razilly soon died, leaving his domain to his kinsman Charles de Menou,Sieurd'Aul- nay Charnisay, who was also related to Cardinal Richelieu. D'Aulnay and La Tour began to quarrel about the boundaries of their jurisdictions, and the former em- ployed a powerful influence at the Court of France to aid his cause. Louis XIII. finally ordered him to carry La Tour to France, in chains, and open war ensued between these patrician adventurers. La Tour had erected a fort at St. John ia 1(334, whence he carried on a lucrative fur-trade with the Indians. In 1643 this stronghold was attacked by D'Aulnay with six vessels, but La Tour escaped on tho ship CUment, leaving his garrison to hold the works. He entered Boston Harbor with 140 Huguenots of La Rochelle, and sought aid from Mas.sachusctts agiinst the Catholic forces which were besieging him. The austere Puritans refbrred to the Bible to see if they could find any precedent for such action, but found no certain response from that oracle. "On the one hand, it was said that the speech of the Prophet to Jehoshaphat, in 2d Chronicles xix. 2, and the portion of Solomon's Proverbs contained iu chap, xxvi, 17th verse, not only discharged them from any obligation, but actually forbade them to assist La Tour; while, on tho other hand, it was agreed that it was as lawful for them to give him succor as it was for Joshua to aid the Gibeonites against the rest of the Canaanites, or for Jehoshaphat to aid Jehoram against Moab, in which expedition Elishawas present, and did not reprove the King of Judah." But when they had ajjsured themselves that it would bo allowable fi»r them to aid the distressed nobleman, they sent such a fleet that D'Aul- nay 's forees were quickly scattered, and th(J siege was raised. Two years later, while La Tour was absent, D'Aulnay again attacked tho fort, but was handsomely repulsed (with a loss of 33 men) by the little garrison, headed by Madame La Tour. Some months later he returned, and opened a regular siege on the landward f^ide (the fort was in Carleton, near Navy Island). After three days of fighting a treach- erous Swiss sentry admitted the enemy into tVe works ; and even then Madame L^i Tour led her troops so gallantly that the victor gave her her own terms. These 20 Jioute 1. ST. JOHN. fii I 11 ■ ]4 1 terms, however, were Phamefully violated, and the garrison was maflsacred before her face. Three weeks afterward, she died of a broken heart. I^a "'our came back to St. John Home years later, and found that D'Aulnay was dead, whereupon he effectually recaptured his oM domain by marrying the widow of the conqueror (1653). D'Aulnay died in 1650, having spent 800,000 livrcs in Acadia, and built 5 fortresses, 2 Kenunaries, and several churches. He had several eons, all of whom entered the French army, and were slain in the service. In 1690 a sharp engagement took place in St. John harbor, between the French frigate Union and two Knglish vessels. The former had entered the harbor bearing the Chevalier de Villebon, and was taken at a disadvantage. After a severe cannon- ade, the Union hauled down her colors. Villebon soon descended the river with a party of Indians and attacked the ships, but without success. In 1696, while the Chevalier dc Villebon governed Acadia from the upper St. John and hurled de- structive Indian bands upon New England, Massachusetts sent three men-of-war to blockade the mouth of the river and cut otf his supplies. They were soon attacked by D'Iberville's French frigates, and made a desperate resistance. But the New- port, 24, was unable to withstand the heavy fire of the Profond, and soon lay dig- masted and helpless. After her surrender the other American vessels escaped under cover of a thick fog. A new fleet from Boston soon afterwards overhauled the French frigates, cruising between Mount Desert and St. John, and captured the Profane/, with M. de Villebon, the Governor of Acadia, on board. In 1701 the fort of St. John was dismantled by Brouilian : but in 1708 it was rebuilt, and hud 4 bastions and 24 pieces of artillery. In July, 1749, II. B. M. sloop-of-war Albany entered the harbor and drove away the French troops, lowering also the standard of France The frigates Hound and York had a skirmish with the French here in 1750, and were ordered out of the port by Boishcbert, the commandant of the fort. In 1755, four British war-vessels entered the harbor, and the French garrison demolished the fort, blew up the mag- azine, and retreated into the country. In 1758 Fort La Tour was still garrisoned by French soldiers, but, after a sliort siege by an Anglo-American force, the post was surrendered at discretion. Two years later, the place was visited by James Simonds, an adventurous New-Englander, who wa«, however, soon driven away by the Indians, " Catholics and allies of France.'' In 1764 he returned with a party of Massachusetts fishermen, and settled on the present site of the city, erecting de- fensive works on Portland Heights, under the name of Fort Howe. In 1775 a naval expedition of Americans from Machias entered the harbor and destroyed the old French fortifications (then called Fort Frederick), completing their work by plun- dering and bombarding the village. May 18, 1783, a British fleet arrived in the port bringing 5,000 of the self-styled "United Empire Loyalists," Americans who were loyal to King George and could not or would not remain in the new Republic of the United States. From this day may be dated the growth of the city of St. John. New Brunswick was set off from Nova Scotia as a separate Province the next year, and in 1786 its first Legislative Assembly was convened here. In 1787 Trinity Church was founded ; in 1788 harbor-lights were established on Partridge Island, and in 1799 the Royal Gazette was started. In 1837 one third of the com- mercial portion of the city was burned, involving a loss of £250,000. During the boundary dispute with the State of Maine (1839-42) the citizens were all enrolled and drilled in military exercises, in preparation for a war on the borders. Largo fortunes were made by the merchants during the Crimean war, when the British timber-market, which had depended largely on the Baltic ports for its supply, was by their closing forced to draw heavily on the American Provinces. The last his- toric event at St. John was its occupation, in the winter of 1861, by several of the choicest regiments of the British army, among which were the Grenadier Guards, the Scotch Fusiliers, and other elite corps. After the peaceful solution of the Trent aflair this formidable garrison was removed, and the city has since been left to prosper in the arts of peace and industry. " Here is picturesque St. John, with its couple of centuries of history and tradi- tion, its comm ces, its enterprise felt all along the coast and through the settle- ments of the ritory to the northeast, with its no doubt charming society and solid English c. ure ; and the summer tourist, in an idle mood regarding it for a day, says it ii> aaught." (War>'£R's Baddeck.) ST. JOHN. Jioute 1. 21 ssacred before our came back whereupon he the conqueror ia, and built 5 , all of whom •n the French larbor bearing severe cannon- the river with 696. while the nd hurled de- men-of-war to soon attacked But the Neiv- I soon lay dis- essels escaped •ds overhauled and captured , In 1701 the built, and hud id drove away es Hound and red out of the ish war-vessels w up the inag- till garrisoned force, the post ited by James I riven away by i with a party :y , erecting de- [n 1776 a naval troyed the old work by plun- arrived in the Americans who i new Republic the city of St. rince the next lere. In 1787 1 on Partridge rd of the com- ). During the re all enrolled orders. Large en the British ts supply, was The last his- several of the nadier Guards, n of the Trent :e been left to tory and tradi- tgh the settle- ig society and igarding it for St. John. "To the winds give our banner! Bear homeward again !" Cried the Lord of Acadia, Cried Charles of lOsticiine ; Fiom the i)row of his shallop lie pazcil, us the sun, Froir. its bed in the ocean. Streamed up tl»e St. John. O'er the blue western waters That sliallop had passed, Where the mists of Venobscot Clung damp on her mast. St. Savior had looked Ou the licrctic sail, As the fongs of the Huguenot ilose on the gale. The pale, ghostly fathers Uemembered her well. And had cursed her while passmg. With taper and bell, But the men of Monhegan, Of Papists abhorred. Had welcomed and feasted The heretic Lord. They had loaded his shallop With dun-flsh and ball. With stores for his lurder, And steel for his wall. Pemcquid, from her bastions And turrets of stone. Had welcomed liis coming With banner and gun. And the prayers of the elders Had followed his way, As homeward he glided Down Pentecost Bay. O, well sped La Tour I For, in peril and pain, His lady kept watch For his coming again. O'er the Isle of the Pheasant The morning sun shone. On the plane-trees wliicli shaded The shores of St. John. " Now why from yon battlements Speaks not my love? Why waves there no banner My fortress above?" Dark and wild, from his deck St. Estienne gazed about, On fire-wasted dwellings, And silent redoubt ; From the low shattered walls Which the flame had o'errun, There floated no banner. There thundered no gun. But beneath the low arch Of its doorway there stood A pale priest of Rome, In his cloak and his hood. With the bound of a lion La Tour sprang to land. On the throat of the Papist lie fastened his hand. " Speak, son of the Woman Of scarlet and sinl What wolf has been prowling My castle within ?" Froni the grasp of the soldier The Jesuit broke, Half in scorn, half in sorrow. He smiled us he spoke : 1647. " No wolf. Lord of Kstlenne, Has ravaged thy hall. But thy red-handed rival. With fire, steel, and balll On an errand of mercy I hitherward came, Willie the wuila of thy castle Yet spouted with flame. " Pentogoet's dark vessels Were moored in the bay. Grim sea-lions, roaring Aloud for their prey i " "But what of my lady?" Cried Charles of Estienne. "On the shot-crumbled turret Thy lady was seen : "Half veiled in the smoke-cloud, Her hand grasped thy pennon. While her dark tresses swayed In the hot breath of cannon t But woe to the heretic, Evermore woe I When the son of the church And the cross is his foe I "In the track of the shell, In the path of the ball, Pentagoct swept over The breach of the wall! Steel to steel, gun to gun. One moment, — and then Alone stood the victor. Alone with his men! " Of its sturdy defenders. Thy lady alone Saw the cross-blazoned banner Float over St. John." " Let the dastard look to it I " Cried flery Estienne, "Were D'Aulnay King Louis, I 'd free her again 1 " " Alas for thy lady I No service from thee Is needed by her Whom the Lord hath set free : Nine days, in stem silence. Her thraldom she bore, . But the tenth morning came. And Death opened her door ! " As if suddenly smitten. La Tour staggered back ; His hand grasped his sword-hilt, His forenead grew black. He sprang on the deck Of his shallop again. " We cruise now for vengeance I Give way I " cried Estienne. " Massachusetts shall hear Of tne Huguenots wrong. And from island and crcekside Her fishers shall throng ! Fentagoet shall rue What his Papists have done, When his palisades echo The Puritan's gun ! " O, the loveliest of heovens Hung tenderly oer him. There were waves in the sunshine. And preen isles before him : But a phle hand was beckoning The Huguenot on : And in blackness and ashes Behind was .''t. John ! JoUN G. WUITTIER. _ 22 Route 2. THE ENVIRONS OF ST. JOHN. i ■X 1 ( 2. The Environs of St John. * Lily Lake is about 1 M. from Kinp Square, and is reached by cross- ing the Valley and Ascending Portland Heights. The road which turns to the r. from the white (Zion) church conducts past several villas and rursil estates. From its end a broad path diverges to the r., leading in a few miinites to the lake, a beautiful sheet of water surrounded by high rocky banks. The environs are thickly studded with clumps of arbor-vitrc and evergreens, among which run devious rambles and pathways. No houses or other signs of civilization are seen on the shores, and the citizens wish to preserve this district in its primitive beauty by converting it into a pub- lic park. The water is of rare purity, and was used for several years to supply the city, being pumped up by expensive machinery. This is a ilvvorite place for skating early in the season, and at that time presents a scene of great activity and interest. A pleasant pathway leads on one side to the Lily Lake Falls, which are attractive in time of high water. The Marsh Boad is the favorite drive for the citizens of St. John, and presents a busy scene on pleasant Sundays and during the season of sleigli- ing. It is broad, firm, and level, and follows the (supposed) ancient bed of the St. John River. At 1^ M. from the city the Rural Cemetery is reached (only lot-owners are admitted on Sunda}-). This is a pleasant ground occupying about 12 acres along a cluster of high, rocky knolls, and its roads curve gi*acefully through an almost unbroken forest of old (but small) evergreen trees. The chief point of interest is along Ocean Avenue, where beneath uniform monuments are buried a large number of sailors. 1^ M. beyond the Cemetery the Marsh Road passes the Throe- Mile House and Moosepath Park, a half-mile course which is much u?cd for horse-racing, especially during the month of August. 3 - 4 M farther on (with the Intercolonial Railway anvays near at hand) the road reaches the Torryhurn House, near the usual course for boat-racing on the broad Kennebecasis Bay. The course of this estuarj- is now followed for 2 M., with the high cliff called the Minister's Face on the farther shore. Pass- ing several country-seats, the tourist arrives at Bothesay, prettily situated on the Kennebecasis. This village is a favorite place of summer residence for families from the city, and has numerous villas and picnic grounds. The facilities for boating and bathing are good. Near the railway station is Rothesay Hall, a summer hotel, accommodating 30-40 guests ($8-10 a week). There are pleasant views from this point, including the broad and lake-like Kennebecasis for many miles, the palisades of the Minister's Face, and the hamlet of Moss Glen. Loch Lomond is about 11 M. N. E. of St. John, and is a favorite resort for its citizens. Many people go out to the lake on Saturday and remain there until ^londay morning. The road crosses the Marsh Bridge and passes near the Silver Falls, a pretty cascade on Little River (whence the „^ THE ENVIRONS OF ST. JOHN. lioute 2. 23 fl by cross- ich turns to IS and rural ing in a few high rocky lor-vitaj nnd y No houses tizens wish into a pub- ;riil 3'ears to . This is a c presents a eads on one h water, t. John, and ^onof sleigii- ancient bed Cemetery is 3 a pleasant X'ky knolls, * forest of old ilong Ocean irgc number s tlic Throe- much u?ed 4 M farther "oad reaches n the broad ed for 2 M., lore. Pass- tily situated er residence lie grounds, i way station !sts ($8-10 g the broad e Minister's '•orite resort md remain Bridge and whence the ' city draws its water supply). There are two small liotcls near Loch I omond, of which Bunker's is at l!ie lower end and Dalzell's is 3-4 M. be- yond, or near the head of the First Lake. These waters are much re- sorted to by trout-fishers, and the white trout that are found near Dalzell's Lake House are considered a delicacy. Boats and tackle are furnished at the hotels; and there is good shooting in the vicinity. The shores con- sist, for the most part, of low rolling hills, covered with forests. The First Lake is 4 x ^ M. in area, and is connected by a 'short stream with the Second Lake, which is nearly 2 M. long, and very narrow. The Third Lake is smaller than either of the others. " An elevated ridRe of hard-wood land, over which the road pauses near the nar- rowest part, afforded me from its summit a view of the lower lake, which would not suffer ill comparison with many either of our EnRlish or our Scottish lakes. Its Burfiue was calm and still ; beyond it rose a wooded ridgo of rounded hills, purpled by the broad-leaved trees whicii covered them, and terminated at the foot of the lake by a lofty, so-called Lion's Back, lower considerably than Arthur's Seat, yet still a miniature Ben Lomond." — Prof. Johnston. Ben Lomond, Jones, Taylor's, and other so-called lakes (being largo forest-ponds) are situated in this neighborhood, and afford better fishing facilities than the much- visited waters of Loch Lomond. Both white and speckled trout an? caught in great numbers from rafts or floats on these ponds ; and Bunker's or Dalzell's affords a favorable headquarters for the sportsman, where also more particular information may be obtained. The Penitentiary is a granite building 120 ft. long, situated in an in- walled tmct of 18 acres, on the farther side of Courtenay Bay. The Poor Home is a spacious brick building in the same neighborhood. The road that passes these institutions is prolonged as far as Mispeck, traversing a diversified country, and at times aflbrding pretty views of the Bay of Fundy. Mispeck is a small marine hamlet, 10 M. from St. John. 4 M. N. of the city is the estate of the Highland Park Company, an asso- ciation of citizens who have united for the purpose of securing rural homes in a beautiful and picturesque region. There are three lakes on the tract (which includes 500 acres), the chief of which is Howe's Lake, a small but pretty forest-pond. The * SuspensioxL Bridge is about 1^ M. from King Square, and most of the distance may be traversed by horse-cars, passing through the town of Portland and under Fort Howe Hill (whence a good view of the city is afforded). The bridge crosses the rocky gorge into which the wide waters of the St. John River are compressed, at a height of nearly 100 ft. above low water. The rush of the upward tide, and the falls which become visible at low tide, fill the stream with seething eddies and Avhirls and render navigation impossible. At a certain stage of the flood-tide, and for a few minutes only, this gorge may be passed by vessels and rafts. The St. John River is over 450 M. long, and, with its many tributaries, drains a vast extent of country. Yet, at this point, where its waters are emptied into the harbor, the outlet of the river is narrowed to a channel which is in places but 450 ft. wide, with cliffs of limestone 100 ft. high hemming it in on either side. The stream rushes through this narrow pass with great impetuosity, and its course is further disturbed by several rocky islets. The tides in the harbor rise to a height of ^ -26 m 24 Rmte I. THE ENVIRONS OF ST. JOHN. % It ft. , and rush up the river with such force as to overflow the falls and produce IptcI water at Hood-tide. The bridge was built in 18o2 by an American engineer, and cost 8 8(»,0(X). It is 640 ft. lonR and contains 570 M. of wire, Hupported on 4 slender but solid towers. One-horse carriages pay 13c. toll ; 2-hor8c carriages, 20c. Over the head of the bridge, on the Cnrleton shore, is the Pronncinl Lunatic Asylum, an extensive briclc building with long wings, situated in pleasant grounds. Its elevated situation renders it a prominent object in approaching the city from almost any direction. The building was erected in 1848, and accommodates 200 patients. From this vicinity, or from the bridge, are seen the busy manufacturing villages about Indiantown and Point Pleasant, most of which are engaged in the lumber business. On the summit of the highest hill in Carleton is a venerable and pic- turesque stone tower, which gives an antique and feudal air to *ie land- scape. It is known as the Martello Tower, and was built f 'arbor- defence at the time when this peculiar kind of fortification > ..ivorcd by the British War Office. Many of these works may be seen along the shores of the British Isles, but they are now used (if used at all) only as coast-guard stations. The tower in Carleton is under the charge of a sub- officer, and near by are seen the remains of a hill-battery, with a few old guns still in position. The *view from this point is broad and beautiful, including St. John, with the Victoria Hotel and the Cathedral most prom- inent, Portland and the Fort Howe Hill, the wharves of Carleton and its pretty churches, the harbor and shipping, the broad Bay of Fundy, ex- tending to the horizon, and in the S. the blue shores of Nova Scotia (the North Mt.), with the deep gap at the entrance to the Annapolis Basin, called the Digby Gut. The streets of Carleton are as yet in a transition state, and do not invite a long sojourn. On the hill near the Martello Tower is the tall and grace- ful Church of the Assumption, with pleasant grounds, in which is the fine building of the presbytery. Below this point is the Convent of St. Vincent, S. of which is seen the spire of St. Jude's Episcopal Church. The Fern Ledges are about 1 M. from Carleton, on the shore, and are much visited by geologists. They consist of an erratic fragment of tlie Old Red Sandstone epoch, and are covered with sea-weed and limpets. On clearing away the weeds and breaking the rock, the most beautiful impressions of ferns and other cr^'ptogamous plants are found. The Mahogany i Road affords a fine drive along the Bay shore, with a sticcession of broad marine views. It is gained by crossing the Suspen- sion Bridge and passing the Insane Asjdum. About 4 M. from the city is the Four-Mile House, a favorite objective point for drives. The road is often followed as far as Spruce Lake, a fine sheet of water 5 M. long, and situated about 7 M. from St. John. Perch are found here in great num- bers, but the facilities for fishing are not good. The water supply of the suburb of Carleton is drawn from this lake. I Mahogany, a popular adaptation of the Indian word Jtlanatvagonish, applied to the neighboring bay. m CAMPOBELLO. EoiUe 3. 25 )rotluce IpTel t-er, una co^t slender but Pronncinl situated in t object in k'as erected )r from the iitown and CSS. and pic- ^0 ]and- 'arbor- ^avorcd 1 along tlie 11) only as e of a sub- 1 a few old beautiful, aost prom- on and its P'undy, ex- scotla (tijo olis Basin, > not invite and grace- ch is tlio ent of St. lurch. I are much 1 Sandstone s weeds and 'ptogamou8 re, with a e Suspen- the city is le road is long, and •eat num- 3ly of the lied to the 3. St John to Eastport and St. Stephen.— Faasamaquoddy Bay. The rommodious vcshcIb of the International Stcnnwhip Com|tany IcflTothc Reed's Point Wharf, at St. John, every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, at 8 a. m., and reach Jiwtport (00 M. distant) a little after noon. A connection U made there with the light steamboat Velle Brown, wlilch ascends Passomaquoddy Bay and the ^i. Croix River to 8t. Andrews and St. Stephen. Travellers who wish to gain a thorougli idea of the quaintly picturesque scenery of Passamaquoddy Bay would do well to go to St. .Stephen by Route 3 and return to St. John by Route 5, or vice virsa. Except during very stormy weather the waters of Passamaquoddy Bay are quiet and without much swell. After leaving St. John, the steamer runs S. W. into the Bay of Fundy, and soon passes Split Rock, and stretches : ross to Point Lepreau. Tlio peculiarities of the coast, which is always visible (in clear weather) on tho N., are spoken of in Route 5, and are thus epitomized by Mr. Warner : " A pretty bay now and then, a rocky cove with scant foliage, a light- house, a rude cabin, a level land, monotonous and without noble forests, — this Avas New Brunswick as we coasted along it under the most favorable circumstances." After passing the Iron-bound islets called the Wolves (where tho New England was wrecked in 1872), the steamer runs in towards the West Isles, whose knob-like hills rise boldly from the blue waters. Sometimes she meets, in these outer passages, great fleets of fishing-boats, either drifting over schools of fish, or, with their white and red sails stretched, pursuing their prey. If such a meeting occurs during one of the heavy fogs which so often visit this coast, a wonderfully weird cflcct is caused by the sudden emergence and disappearance of the boats in the dense white clouds. Soon after passing the White Horse islet, the steamer enters the Eastern Passage, and runs to the S. W. into Friar's Road. On the r. is Deer Isle, a rugged island, 7 M. long by 3 M. wide, with a poor soil and no good harbors. There are about 1,000 inhabitants on this island, and it is surrounded by an archipelago of isolated rocky peaks. The shores attain an elevation of 300 ft., and from some of the higher hills are gained beau- tiful panoramic views of the Passamaquoddy Bay, on one side, and the Bay of Fundy, on the other. Campobello Island lies on the left side of the course, with bold and rocky shores. It is 8 M. long by 3 M. wide, and contains numerous profitable farms. On its N. point is a lighthouse, below which is the entrance to the fine harbor of Welchpool, where there is a pretty marine village. Wilson's Beach is a populous fishing-settlement on the S. shore; and the island contains over 1,000 inhabitants. The surrounding waters are rich in fisheries, especially of herring and haddock, which are fol- lowed by the island flotillas ; and tho hills are said to yield copper, lead, and plaster. The proximity of the lower shores to the American towns 2 20 Houte 3. EASXrOET. r lili ;i of Lubec atd Eastport affords favorable opportunities for smuggling, which was formerly practised to a considerable extent. The island is frequently visited by summer tourists, on account of the fine marine scenery on its ocean front and for the sport afforded by the deep-sea fishing. Some years ago there was much talk of erecting a first-class hotel on the east shore, but the project now lies in abeyance. The view from the abrupt heights of Brucker's Hill embraces a wide expanse of blue waters, studded with an archipelago of islets. • On the W. shore is the singular group of rocks known as the Friar's Face, which has been a favorite target for marine artillery. The earliest settlement on the Bay was established about 1770, by the Campo- bello Company, and was located at Ilarhor dc Lute, on Canipobullo Island. It wag named Warrington, but the Welchpool settlement has long since surpassed it. The island was for some time the property of Capt. Owen, of the Royal Navy, to whom the residents paid ttuaiits' dues. At certiun stages of the tide, Eastport can only be approached by passing around Campobello, concerning which Mr. Warner in- dulges in the following pleasantry : " The possest?ion by the British of the isbnd of Campolbello is an insufferable menace and impertinence. I write with a full knowl- edge of what war is. We ought to instantly dislodge the British from Campobello. It entirely shuts up and commands our harbor, — one of our chief ri^fitern har- bors and war stations, where we keep a flag and cannon and some soldiers, and where the customs officers look out for smuggling. There is no way to get into our own harbor, except in favorable circumstances of the tide, without begging tlw courtesy of a passage through British waters. Why is England permitted to stretch along down our coast in this straggling and inquisitive manner ? She might almost as well own Long Island. It was impossible to prevent our cheeks mantling with shanic as we thought of this, and saw ourselves, free American citizens, landlocked by alien soil in our own harbor. We ought to have war, if war is necessary to pos- sess Campobello and Deer Islands, or else we ought to give the British Eastport. I am not sure but the latter would be the better course." Eastport {*Passamaquoddy House, $2.50 a day; TnttWs Hotel, $2) is an American border-town, on the coast of Maine, and has 3,738 inhabi- tants and 8 churches. It is built on the slope '^f a hill at the E. end of Moose Island, in Passamaquoddy Bay, and is engaged in the fisheries and the coasting-trade. Over the village are the ramparts of Fort Sullivan, a garrisoned post of the United States, commanding the harbor with its artillery. Eastport is much visited in summ-r ibr the sake of the salt- water fishing and the unique marine scenery in the vicinity, and has sev- eral reputable boarding-houses. It is connected with the mainL-nd by a bridge, over which lies the road to the Indian village. Eastport is tlio most convenient point from which to reach Campobello, Grand Iilanan (see Route 4), and the adjacent i.'^lands. A steam-ferry runs hence in 3 M. to Lubec {Lubec House, Cobscook Hotel), a picturesque marine village to- wards Quoddy Head, with advantages for sumnier resident.''. This pleasant little place is decaying slowly, having lost over 400 inhabitants between 1860 and 1870. The present population is a little over 2,000. Lubec is 1 M. farther E. than Eastport, and is therefore the easternmost town of the United States. The purple cliffs of Grand Manan are seen from Quoddy Head. ib^: EASTPORT. Routes. 27 smuggling;, e island is ine marine le deep-sea I first-class The view expanse of W. shore is 1 has been the Campo- and. It wag -sscd it. The ivy, to whom port can onlj . Warner in- the island of a full knowl- Campobello. Tifitern har- soldiers, and ) get into our begging tlm ted to stretch might aluio8t nantling with IS, landlocked !ssary to pes- Eastport. I Totel, $ 2) is ,738 inhabi- 3 E. end of sheries and ; Sullivan, 'or with its of the salt- id has scv- nLnd by a port is tho and ]Manan 3nce in 3 M. village to- ns pleasant ts between Lubec is st town of seen from In 1684 the Passamaquoddy islands were granted by the King of France to Jeaa SarrQau dc St. Aubin. In the summer of 1704 the few French settlers about Passa- maquoddy Bay were plundered by an expedition under Col. Church, consisting of 600 Massachusetts soldiers, escorted by the men-of-war Jersey, 48, and Gosport, 32. They ascended the St. Croix as far as the bead of navigation, then returned and crossed the bay to ravage the Minas settlements. Tliey visited Moose Island and tlio adjacent main, and carried off all the settlers as prisoners. Eighteen years later a Boston ship was captured by the Indians among these islands, but was retaken by its crew when a fair wind arose. In 1744 Massachusetts declared war against the Indians on this bay and on the St. John Uiver ; and in 1760 the tribes sued for peace, sending hostages to Boston. In 1734 Gov. Belcher (of Mass.) visited tho biiy, and in 1750 and 1762 its shores and islands were regularly surveyed. During the War of the Revolution the Passamaquoddy Indians were loyal to the United States, and declined all offers from the British agents. The boundary question began to assume great importance after the close of the war. The treaty stipulated that the St. Croix iliver should form the frontier ; but Massachusetts, supported by the Indians, claimed that the Magaguadavic was the true St. Croix ; while Great Britain asserted and proved that the outlet of the Scboodic Lakes was tlie veritable river. The Islands were surrendered to Britain ; but Moose, Dudley, and Frederick Islands were restored to the United States in 1818. Eastport was founded about 1784, by fishermen from the coast of Essex Coanty, Mass., who settled here on account of the facilities for catching and curing fish. In 1808 the walls of Fort Sullivan were raised, and a detachment of troops was 8ta« tioued there. In 1813 the valuable British vessel, the Etiza Ann, was captured by tlie privateer Timothy Pickering and sent into Eastport. She was followed by II. M. S. Martin, whosy commander demanded her surrender, on pain of destroying the town. The citizens refused to release the prize, and the Martin opened fire on Eastport, but was soon driven away by the guns of the fort. July 11, 1814, a Brit- i.sh fleet appeared off the town, and informed the commander that if he did not haul down his flag within five minutes they would bombard the town. The flag came down, the garrison laid down their arms, and the hostile fleet, headed by the Rami- lies, 74, anchored off the town. British martial law was enforced here for the next four years, after which the place was restored to the United States. The steamer Belle Brotcn^ in ascending the bay, runs for some distance between Deer Isle and Moose Island. At about 5 M. from Eastport, Pleasant Point (known to the Indians as Sybnik) is seen on the 1. Here is the chief settlement rf the Passamaquoddy Indians, who were driven from the peninsula of St. Andrews nearly a century ago, and received their present domain from the .American government. They are about 400 in number, and draw an annuity and a school-fund from the Republic. They are the remnant of the ancient Openango tribe of the Etchemin nation, and they chng teuaciously to the faith delivered unto them of old by thu Jesuits. Their church is dedicated to St. Anne, and is served by Indian deacons ; and the pictu- resque cemetery is in the same vicinity. They support themselves by hunting, fish- ing, and basket-making, and their favorite amusement is dancing, for which they have built a hall. There are scarcely any pure-blooded Indiana here, but the adulteration has been made with a choicer material than among the other tribes since these are mostly French half-breeds, in distinction from the negro ht If-breeds of the lower coasts. Many years ago there was a controversy about the chieftaincy in consequence of which a portion of the tribe seceded, and are now settled on the Schoodic Lakes. The name Passamaquoddy is said to be derived from Pesmo-acadie," voWock- place" Others say that Quoddy means "pollock"; but Father Vetmniile. the scholarly Jesuit missionary, claims that the whole word is a corruption of the Indian Peskamaquontik, derived from Peskadaminkkanti, a term which signifies ''it eoefl up into the open field." * J >Sii! 28 Route 4. GRAND MANAN. As the bay is entered, above Pleasant Point, the West Isles are seen opening on the r., displaying a great variety of forms and combinations. On the L are the pleasant shores of Perry, and far across, to the r., arc the highlands about the Magaguadavic River. After passing Navy Island, the boat rounds in at St. Andrews. St. Andrews, the St. Croix River, and St. Stephen, see pages 33-86. 4. Grand Manan. This " paradise of cliffs " is situated off Quoddy Head, about 7 M. from the Maine coast, and pertains to the Province of New Brunswick. It is easily reached firom Eastport (during fair winds), witli which it has a mail communication. The summer climate would be delicious were it not for the fogs ; and it is claimed that invalids suffering from gout and dyspepsia receive much benefit Iiere (very likely from the enforced abstinence from rich food). The brooks and the many fresh- water ponds afford fair trouting and bird-shooting, and a few deer and rabbits are found in the woods. There are no bears nor reptiles on the island. There is a small inn at Grand Harbor, but the sojourner will prefer '^^o get board in some of the private houses. Neat rooms and simple fore may there be obtained for $ 4 - 7 a week. " As we advanced, Manan gradually rose above the waves and changed its a.spcct, the flat-topped purple wall being transmuted into brown, rugged, ])crpendicular cliffs, crowned with dark green foliage. Passing, as we did, close in by the extreme northern point, we were impressed by its beauty and graud<£ur, which fur exceeds even that of the cliffs at Mount Desert. " As a place of summer resort. Grand Manan is in some respects unequalled. At certain seaso.is the fog is abundant, yet that can be endui'ed. Here the opportuni- ties for recreation are unequalled, and all persons fond of grand sea-shore views may indulge their taste without limit. The people are invariably kind and trust- worthy, and American mannei-s and customs prevail to such an extent that travel- lers at once feel at home." (De Costa.) The island of Grand Manan is 22 M. long and 3-6 M. wide, and lies in the mouth of the Bay of Fundy, whose powerful tides sweep impetuously by its shores. It has about 1,500 inhabitants, who dwell along the road which connects the harbors on the E. shore, and are famous for their daring and expertness in the fisheries. They have 3 schools, 6 churches (mostly Baptist), and a military organization; while the advantages of free-trade, insignificant taxation, government-built roads, and complete self-legislation, give re.ison for the apostrophe, *' Happy Mananites, wlio, free from grinding taxation, now rove out from rock-bound coves, and quarry at will in the silvery mines of the sea! " The harbors on the E. shore afford safe shelter for small vessels, and are connected with the great cliff's on the W. by narrow roads through the woods. The fisheries of cod, herring, and haddock are very extensive in this vicinity, and form the chief resource of the people, who are distinguished for the quaint sim- plicity which usually pertains to small and Insulated maritime communi- ties. Grand Manan has been for many years a favorite resort for Amr .- lean marine painters, who find excellent studies in its picturesqtie cliff's and billowy seas. It was visited by Champlain in 1605, but was occupied only by the Indians for 180 years after. Col. Allan, the American com- mander in E. Maine during the Revolution, held the island with his Indian GRAND MANAN. Jioute 4. 29 3 are seen nbiuations. ! r.,are the Island, the !S 33-36. M. from the asily reached ration. The claimed that (very liitdy many fresh- d rabbits are There is a d in some of i for $4-7 a ed its aspect, wrpendicular r tlie extreme A fur exceeds ?qualled. At le opportuni- a-shore Tiews ad and trust- it that travel- , and lies in mpctuously )ng the road is for their , 5 churches vantages of id complete [inites, wlio, coves, and •s on the E. ;d with the 'he fisheries y, and form quaint sini- e commnni- rt for Amfi- resque cliffs ■as occupied erican com- h his Indian i auxiliaries, but it was finally ceded to Great Britain. After the war it was settled by several Loyalists from Massachusetts, chief among whom was Moses Gerrish. A recent writer demands that the island be fortified and developed, claiming that its situation, either for commerce or war, is strategically as valuable as those of the Isle of Man, Guernsey, and Jersey, and that it would make a fine point of attack against Portland and the coast of Maine. Grand Harbor is the chief of the island hamlets, and is situated on the safe and shallow bay of the same name. It has an Episcopal church of stone and two or three stores, besides a small inn. Off shore to the S. E. lie Ross, Cheyne, and White Head Islands, on the latter of which Audu- bon studied the habits of the herring-gulls, in 1833. To the E. are the rock-bound shores of Nantucket Island, and on the S. are the Grand Ponds. The South Shore is reached by a good road leading down from Grand Harbor. At 6 M. distance is the narrow harbor of Seal Cove, beyond which the road lies nearer to the sea, affording fine marine views on the 1., including the Wood Islands and the Gannet Rock Lighthouse, 9-10 M. at sea. 4 M. beyond Seal Cove the road reaches Broad Cove, whence a path leads across the downs for about 2 M. to the high and ocean- viewing cliffs of S. W. Head. Among the rugged and surf-beaten rocks of this bold promontory is one which is called the Old Maid, from its rude resemblance to a colossal woman. About the S. W. Head is a favor- ite resort and breeding-place of the gulls, whose nests are made in the grass. A forest-path leads N. to Bradford's Cove, on the W. shore, a wide bight of the sea in which the ship Mavoui^een was wrecked. The North Shore. The road from Grand Harbor to Whale Cove is 7- 8 M. long, and is firm and well-made. 3 M. N. of Grand Harbor, Wood- ward's Cove is passed, with its neat hamlet, 4 M. beyond which is Flagg's Cove. Sprague'8 Cove is a pretty fishing-hamlet on the S. side of Swal- low-Tail Head, where "everything appears to have been arranged for artistic effect. The old boats, the tumble-down storehouses, the pic- turesque costumes, the breaki:»g surf, and all the miscellaneous para- phernalia of such a place, set off as they are by the noble background of richly-colored clifl's, produce an effect that is as rare as beautiful." Swallow-Tail Head is a fan-shaped peninsula, surrounded by wave-worn cliffs, and swept by gales from every quarter. On its outer point is a lighthouse which holds a fixed liglit (visible for 17 M.) 148 ft. above the sea. Whale Cove is on the N. E. shore, and is bordered by a shingle-beach on which are found bits of porphyry, agate, jasper, and other minerals. " Here the view is surprisingly fine, the entire shore being encircled by immense cliffs that rise up around the border of the blue waves, with a richness of color and stateliness of aspect that cannot fail to impress tho (I til 30 Jioute 5. GRAND MANAN. beholder On the E. side is Fish Head, and on the W. Eel Brook and Northern Head, the latter extending out beyond its neighbor, and be- tween are the bine sky and water." On the melancholy cliffs at Eel Brook Cove the ship Lord Ashburton was wrecked, and nearly all on board were lost (21 of them are buried at Flagg's Cove). Beyond this point, and near the extreme northern cape, is the Bishop^s Head, so called because of a vague profile in the face of the cliff. The W. coast of Grand ^lanan is lined with a succession of massive cliffs, which appear from West Quoddy like a long and unbroken purple wall. These great precipices are 3-400 ft. high (attaining their greatest eleva- tion at the N. end), and form noble combinations of marine scenery. A cart-track leads across the island from near Woodward's Cove to the ro- mantic scenery about Dark Cove ; near which is Money Cove, so named because search has been made there for some of Capt. Kidd's burled treasures. To the N. is Indian Beach, where several lodges of the Passa- maquoddy tribe pass the summer, attending to the shore fishery of por- poises. Still farther N. are the rocky palisades and whirling currents of Long's Eddy. " When the cliff Is brought out on such a stupendous scale as at Grand Mnnan, with all the accessories of a wild ocean shore, the interest becomes absorbing. The other parts of the island are of course invested with much interest. The low eastern shore, fringed with small islands and rocks, affords many picturesque sights. In a pleasant day a walk southward has many charms. The bright sky, the shingle beach, the picturesque boats, and blue land-locked bays continually enforce the admiration of an artistic eye, and allure the pedestrian on pm^t cape, cove, and reach, until he suddenly finds that miles of ground intervene between him and his dinner." (De Costa.) " Grand Manan, a favorite summer haunt of the painter, is the very throne of the bold and romantic. The high precipitous shores, but for the woodswhich beau- tify them, are quite in the style of Labrador." (L. L. Moble. ) Charlevoix speaks of an old-time wonder which seems to have passed away from these shores ; " It is even asserted that at 3 of a league off Isle Menane, which serves as a guide to ve-ssels to enter St. John's River, there is a rock, almost always cov- ered by the sea, which is of lapis-laznli. It is added that Commander de Ilazilli broke off a piece, which he sent to France, and Sieur Penys, who had seen it, sajs that it was valued at ten crowns an ounce." 5. St John to St. Andrews and St. Stephen.— Fassama- qnoddy Bay. The steamer leaves the Reed's Point AVharf every Thursday and Saturday, at 8 A.M., and reaches St. Stephen before dark. She returns from St. Stephen every Monday and Friday morning. Fares, St. John to St. George, $ 1.76 ; to St. An- drews, $1.50; to St. Stephen, $1.75. This route was serve; Tracj, 40; Cork, 61; Harvey, 06; Ma^aguadavic , 76; McAdam Junction, 85; St. Croix, 91; Vaiiceboro', 92; Jack.son Brook, 112; Danforth, 117; Bancroft, 126; King- man, 139; Mattawamkeag. 147; Winn, 150; Lincoln Centre, 159; Lincoln, 161; Enfield, 170; Paasadumkeiig, 175; Olamon, 179; Greonbush, 182; Costigan, 187; Milford, 192; Oldtown, 193 ; Gnit Works, 194 ; Web.stcr, 196; Orono, 197; Basin Mills, 198; Veajiie, 201; Bangor, 205. (Newport, 2^3; Waterville, 2()0 ; Augusta, 281; Brunswick, 215; Portland, 343; Portsmouth, 395; Ncwburyport, 415; Bos- ton, 451.) The traveller crosses the Princess St. ferry from St. John to Carleton, and takes the train at the terminal station, near the landing. The line ascends through the disordered suburb of Carleton, giving from its higher grades l)road and pleasing views over the city, the harbor, and the Bay of Fundy. It soon reaches Fairrille, a growing town near the Provincial Lunatic Asylum and the Suspension Bridge. There are numerous lumber- mills here, in the coves of the river. The train sweeps around the South Bay on a high grade, and soon reaches the Grand Bay of the St. John River, beyond which is seen the deep estuary of the Kennebecasis Bay, with its environment of dark hills. The shores of the Long Reach are fol- lowed for several miles, with beautiful views on the r. over the placid river and its vessels and villages (see also page 41). To the W. is a sparsely settled and rugged region in whicn are many lakes, — Loch Alva, the Robin Hood, Sherwood, and the Queen's Lakes. 38 Route?. CIIIPUTNETICOOK LAKES. .' I The line leaves the Long Reach, and turns to the N. W. up tlio valley of the Ncrepis Hlvcr, which is followotl ns far as the hamlet of Wvhfurd (small inn). The country now prows very tamo and uninteresting, as the Douplas Valley is ascended. Clarendon is 7 M. from the Chuvndon Set- tlement, with its new homes wrested from the savage forest. I-'rom Gas- pereaux a wagon convoys passengers to the Smith Oromccto Lake, 10-12 M. S. W., among the highlands, a secluded sheet of water about 5 M. long, aboiuiding in trout. Beyond the lumber station of Knnlskillen, the train passes the prosperous village of lUissville; nn(\ at Freilencton Junction a connection is ma^lo for Frcdericton, about 20 M. N. Tracy's Mills is the next stopping-place, and is a cluster of lumber-mills on the Oroniocto River, which traverses the village. On either side aro wide tracts of unpopidated v>ilderness; and after crossing the parish of New Maryland, the line enters Manners Sutton, passes the Cork Settle- ment, and stops at the ITmny Sc'ffeiiitii!, a rugged district occupied by families from the borders of Eiigiand and Scotland. To the N. and N. W. aro the Bear and '^vanbcrry Lakes, aflin-diiig ;r,')oA fishing. A road leads S. 7- 8 V. from Harvey to t:\e tiomocto Lake, a fine .-.hcet of Avatcr nearly 10 ]\I. long and 3-4 M. wide, whcic many large trout are found. The neighboring forcst« conta";i variuus i.Inds of game. Near the N. W. shore of the lake is iiio small hamlet of Tweedside. The Bald Mountain, "near the Harvey Settlement, is a great mass of porphyry, with a lake (probably in the crater) near the summit. It is on the edge of the coal measures, where they touch the slate." Magaguadavic station is at the foot of Magaguadavic Lake, which is about 8 RL long, and is visited by sportsmen. On its E. shore is the low and bristling Magaguadavic Ridge ; and a chain of smaller lakes lies to the N. The train now runs S. W. to McAdam Junotion (restaurant in the sta- tion), where it intersects the New Brunswick and Ca? .tfla P liiway (see Route 6). 6 M. beyond McAdam, through a monotonous wilderness, is St. Croix, on the river of the same name. After crossing the river the train enters the United States, and is visited b" the customs-officers at Vanceboro' ( Chijmfneticook House). This is the station whence the beau- tiful lakes of the upper Schoodic may bo visited. Tlie Clilputnetlcook liakes are about 45 M. in length, in a N. W. course, and are from >^ to 10 M. in width. Their navigation is very intricate, by reason of the multitude of islets and islands, narrow passages, covesj i.nd deep inlets, which diversity of land and water affords beautiful combinations o" scenery. The islands are covered with cedar, hemloclt, and birch trees; at;d the ; olu inghlands which shadow the lakes are also well wooded. One of the mc it remarkable features of the scenery is the abundance of bowlders and ledges of fine white granite, either seen through the transparent waters or lining the shore like massive masonry. "Uni- versal gloom and stillness reign over these lakes and thi- forests around them." Beyond Vanceboro' the train passes through an Jilmost unbroken wilder- ness for 65 M., during the last 16 M. following the course of the Matta- I ST. JOHN RIVER. Itoiite 8. 39 tlio valley iiip, as tho ndon Set- I'Voiii Gils- Ac, 10-12 5 M. long, , the tniln Junction a mbcr-mills r slclo nro parish of :irk Settlo- cupiccl by and N. W. road leads t of wiitcr arc fouinl. the N. W. Mountain, •ith a lalio )f tlie coal f, which is is the low kes lies to in the sta- :ii\vay (see derness, is ) river tho ■officers at ! the beau- TV. course, jy reason of ilcts, which The islnndi) iinds which tures of tho either seen ry. "Uni- liem." en wilder- ihe Matta- wi wamkcng River. The station of Mattmcnmkeng is at tho confluenco of tho Mattawamkeag and Penobscot Rivers; and tho railway from thenco follows tho course of tho latter stream, travorsinj; a succession of thinly populated lumbering towns. 45 M. below Mattawamkeag, the Penobscot is crossed, and tho train roaches Oldtown (two inns), a place of about 4,000 iidiabitants, largely engaged in tho lumber business. Tho traveller should notice hero tho immense and costly booms and mills, ono of which is tho largest in tho world and has 100 saws at work cutting out planks. On an Island just above Oldtown is the home of the Tarratlno Indians, formerly the most powerful and warlike of the Nortlierrt tribes. They were at first wcll-dls- posf'l towiinlrt tlie colonists, but after a series of wrongs and insults they took up arms in liJTS, and intlictcd such terrible damage on the settlements that Maine be- came tril>utary to tliem by tlie Peace of Casco, After destroying tho fortress of Pcm- aquid to avenge an insult to their chief, St. Castin, they remained quiet for many years. Tho treaty of 17'20 contains the substance of their prcscut relations with tho State. Tho declension of the tribe was marked for two centuries; but ft is now slowly increasing. Tlie people own tho Islands in the Penobscot, and have a reve- nue of .S 6 - 7,000 from the State, which tlic men eke out by working on the lumber- rafts, and by hunting antl fishing, while the women make baskets and other trifles for sale. The island-village is without streets, and con-sists of many small houses built around a Catholic church. There aro over 400 persons here, most of whom are hall-breeds. Below Oldtown tho river is seen to bo filled with booms and rafts of timber, and lined with saw-inills. At Orono is the State Agricultural College; and soon after passing Vcazio tho train enters the city of Bangor. For descriptions of Bangor, the Penobscot River, and tho route to Bos- ton, sec Osgood's New Em/lnnd. 8. St. John to Fredericton.— The St. John River. The steamer Rothesay, of tho Express Lino, leaves St. John (Tndiantown) at 9 A. M on Monday, U'cdnesday, and Friday. Tiio steamer David Weston, of the Union Line, leaves Indiantown at 9 A. M. on Tue.sday, Thursday, and Saturday. See also Routes 9 and 10. Tliese vessels are comfortably fitted up for passengers, in tho manner of the smaller boats on tlie Hudson River. Dinner is served on board ; and Fredericton is usually reached late in tho afternoon. The scenery of the St. .lohn lliver is pretty, and has a pleading pastoral quiet- ness. Tho elements of the landscapes are simple ; the settlements are few and small, and at no time will tho traveller find his attention violently drawn to any passing object. There are beautiful views on the Long Reach, at Belleisle Bay, and during the approach to Fredericton, but the prevalent character of the scenery is that of quiet and restful rural lands, by which it is pleasant to drift on a balmy summer-day. Certain provincial writers have done a mischief to the St. John by bestowing upon it too extravagant prai.«e, thereby preparing a disappoint- ment for such as believed their report. One calls it " tho Rhine of America," and another prefers it to the Hudson. This is wide exaggeration ; but if the traveller would enjoy a tranquillizing and luxurious journey through a pretty fanning coun- try, abounding iu mild diversity of scenery, he should devote a day to this river. Distances. — (The steamboat-landings bear the names of their owners, and the following itinerary bears reference nither to the villages on the shores than to tho stopping-places of the boats.) St. John; Brundage's Point, 10 M. ; Westfield, 17 ; Greenwich HiU, 19; Oak Point, 25; Long Reach, 26; Tennant's Cove (Belleisle Bay), 29; Wickham, 32; Ilampstead, 36; Otnabog, 41; Gagetown, 50; Upper' Gagetown, 58 ; Maugerville, 72 ; Oromocto, 75 ; Olasier's, 81 ; Fredericton, 86. Fares. — St. John to Gagetown, $ 1 ; to Fredericton, $ 1.50. 40 Jioute 8. KENNEBECASIS BAY. I This river was called Looshtook (Long River) by the.Etchemin Indi-ins, and Ouangoiidie by the Micniucs. It is supposed to have been vi^uod by De Monts, or other explorers at an early day, and in tlie comniistiion of the year 1598 to the Lieut.-General of Acadia it is called La Riviere tk la Grande Bale. But no exam- ination was made of the upper waters until St. John's Day, 1604, when the French fleet under De Mouts and Poutrincourt entered tlie great river. In honor of the saint on whose festival the exploration was begun, it was then entitled the St. John. After spending several weeks in a-xcendintc the stream and its connected waters, the discoverers sailed away to tlie .south, bearing a good report of the chief river of Acadia. De Monts expected to find by tliis course a near route to Tadousac, on tlio Saguenay, and therefore sailed up as far as the depth of water would permit. " Tlio extent of this river, the fish with which it was filled, the grapes growing on its banks, and the beauty of its gcenery, were all objects of wonder and admiration." At a subsequent day the fierce struggles of the French seigneurs were waged on its shores, and the invading fleets of New England furrowed its tn.nquil waters. The St. John is the chief river of the Maritime Provinces, and is over 450 M. In length, being navigable for steamers of ],0()U tons for 9(1 M., for light-draught bteamers 270 M. (with a break at tlie Grand Falls), and for canoes for nearly its entire extent. It takes its rise in the great Maine forest, near tliff sources of the Penooscot and the Chaudiire ; and from the lake which heads its S. W. Branch the Indian voyageurs carry their canoes across tlie ^Icjarmette Portige and launch them in the Chaudicre, on which they descend to Quebec. Flowing to the N. E. for over 150 M. through the JIaine forest, it receives the Allagash, St. Francis, and other large streams ; and from the mouth of tlie St. Francis nearly to the Grand Falls, a distance of 75 M., it forms the frontier between the United States and Canada. It is the chief member in that great system of rivers and lakes which has won for New Brunswick the distinction of being " the most finely watered country vi the world." At Madawaska the course changes from N. E to S. E., and the sparsely settled N. W. counties of the Province are traver.«ed, with large tributaries coming in on either side. During the last 50 M. of its course it receives the watery of the great basins of the Grand and ^^'aslla(l^•moak Lakes and the Belleisle and Kennebecasis Bays, which have a parallel direction to the N. E.,and afford good facilities for inland navigation. The tributary streams are connected with those of the Gulf and of the Bay of Ohalcur by short portages (which will be mentioned in connection with their points of departure). Immediately after leaving the clock at St. John a fine retrospect is given of the dark chasm below, over wb.icli is the light and graceful suspension-bridge. Running up by Point Pleasant, the boat ascends a narrow gorge with high and abrupt banks, at whose bases are largo lui'iber-mills. On the r. is Boar''s Head, a picturesque rocky promon- tor\', in whose sides are quarries of limestone; o-4 M. above Indiantown the broad expanse of Grand Bay is entered, r.nd South Bay is seen open ing on the 1, rear. The Kennebecasis Bay is now scci, opening to the N. E. This noble sheet of water is from 1 to 4 M. wide, and is navigable for large vessels for over 20 ]\I. It receives tiie Kennebecasis and Hammond Rivers, and contains several islands, the chief of which, Lonff Island, is 5 M. long, and is opposite the village of Rothesay (see page 22). The E. shore is fol- lowed for many miles by the track of the Intercolonial Railway. The testimony of the rocks causes scientists to believe that the St. John formerly emptied by two mouths, — through the Kennebecasis and the Marsh Valley, and tbrougli South Bay into Manawagonish Bay, — and that the breaking down of the present channel through the lofty hills AV. of St. John is an event quite recent in geological history. The Indians still preserve a tradition that this barrier of hills ■was onco unbroken and served to divert the stream. f 1 it : I ■vi 1 i M LONG REACH. Rente S. 41 r On the banks of the placid Rennebccasis the ancient Micmac legends locate the home of the Great Heaver, "feared by beasts and men," whom Glooscap finally conquered and pu' to death. Ir; this vicinity dwelt the two Great Brothers, Gloos- CAP and M.VLSUNSis, of unknv>\^n origin and invincible power. Glooscap knew that his brother was vulnerable only by the touch of a fern-root ; and he had toM Mal- 5tinsis (falsely) that the stroke of an owl's feather would kill him. It came to pass tliat Malsu'isis determined to kill his brother (whether tempted thus by Mik-o, tho Squirrel, or by Quah-beet-e-sis, the son of the Great Beaver, or by his own evil am- bition) ; wherefore with his arrow ho shot Koo-koo-skoos, the Owl, and with one of his feathers struck the sleeping Glooscap. Then he awoke, and reproached Malsun- sis, but afterwards told him that a blow from the root of a pine would kill him. Then tho traitorous man led his brother on a hunting excursion far into the forest, and while he slept he smote him with a pine-root. But the cautious Glooscap aroso unharn^ed, and drove IMalsunsis forth into the forest ; then sat down by the brook- side and said to himself, '* Naught but a liowering rush can kill me." Musquash, the Beaver, hidden among the sedge, heard these words and reported them to Mal- sunsis, who promised to do unto him even as he should ask. Therefore did Mus- quash say, " Give unto me wings like a pigeon." But the warrior answered, " Get thee hence, thou wi*.h a tail like a file ; what need hast thou of pigeon's wings ?" and wont on his way. Then tlie Beaver was angry, and went forth unto the camp of Glooscap, to whom i^c told .vhat he had done. A. d by rea.son of these tidings, Glooscap arosi^ and took u, root of fern and sought Malsunsis in the wid-^and gloomy forest ; and when he had found him he smote him so that he fell down dead. " And Glooscap sang a song over him and lamented." Now, thercfcro, Glooscap ruled all beasts and men. And there came unto him thrre brothers seeking that he would give them great strength and long life and much stature. Then asked he of them whether they wished these things that they might l)enefit arid counsel men and be glorious in battle. But they said, " No; we seek not the good of men, nor care we for others." Then he offered unto them suc- ciss in battle, knowledge and skill in diseases, or wisdom and subtlety in counsel. But they would not hearken unto him. Therefore did Gloo.scap wax angry, and said : " Go your ways : you shall have strength and stature and length of days." And while they were yet in the way, rejoicing, "lo I their feet became rooted to tho ground, and their legs stuck together, and their necks shot up, and they were turned into throe cedar-treos, strong and tall, and enduring beyond thedaysof men, but destitute alike of all glory and of all use." I Occasional glimpses of the railway are obtained on the 1., and on the r. is the large island of Kennel)ecasis, which i' separated from the Kingston peninsula by the Milkish Channel. Then the shores of Land's End arc passed on the r. ; and on tlic 1. is the estuary of the Nerepis River. At this point the low (but rocky and alpine) ridge of the Nerepis Hills crosses tho river, running N. E. to Bull Moose Hill, near the head of Bellcislo Bay. The steamer now changes her course from N. W. to X. E., and enters the Long Beach, a broad and straight expanse of the river, 16 M. long and 1-3 M. wide. The shores are higii and bold, and the scenery lias a lake- like character. Beyond the hamlets of Westfield and Greenwicli Hill, on the 1. bank, is the rugged and forest-covered ridge known as the Devil's Back, an off-spur of the minor Alleghany chain over the Xercpis Valley. Abreast of the wooded Foster's Island, on the E. shore, is a small ham- let clustered about a tall-spired church. Caton's Island is just above Fos- ter's, and in on the W. shore is seen the pretty little village of Oak Point (Lacey's inn), with a lighthouse and the s}»ire of the Episcopal church of St. Paul. Farther up is tho insulated intervale of Grassy Island, famous 42 Jioute S. BELLEISLE BAY. !> I! ! for its rich hay, which may be seen in autumn stacked all nlonj; the shore. The stenmer now pussies through tiie contracted channel ofT Mistaken Point, where the river is nearly closed by two narrow peninsulas which project towards each other from the opposite shores. BelleiMlo Bay turns to the N. E. just above Mistaken Point. The estunrj- is nearly luilden by ii low islauil and by a rounded promontory on thor., beyond which the buy extends to the N. E. for 12- 14 AI., with a uniform width of 1 M. It is navi- Ruble for the hirj^est vessels, and is bordered by wooded hills. On the S. shore near tiie mouth is Kin^^ston Creek, whieh leads S. in about 5 M. to KlngHtoii (two inns), a sequestered village of 200 inhabiUints, romautieally situated among the hills in the centre of the iK'ninsular parish of Kingston. This peninsula pi-escrves an almost uniform width of 5-0 M. for 30 M. , between the Kunnebecasis Bay and river ontheS. K. and the Long Ueach and Belleisle Bay on tlie N. W. Tlio scenery, though never on a grand scale, is pleasant and bold, and has many fine water viewa. A few miles E. of Kingston is the remarkable lakelet called tlio Pickivaakeft , occu- pying an extinct cmter ami surrounded by volcanic roclts. This district was ori>:i- nally settled by American Loyalists, and for many years Kingston was the cajiital of Kings County. The village is most easily i-eaclied from Rotlicsay (see page 22). Teiinant's Cove is a small Baptist village ot the N. of the entrance to tlie bay; whence a road leads in 5 M. to the liamlet of Belleisle Bay on the N. sliore (nearly opposite Long Point village) ; from whicli the bay road runs in 3-4 M. to tlie larger Baptist settlement at Spragg's Point, whence much cord-wood is sent to St. .lolin. 4 M. beyond is Sprintijidd (small inn), the largest of the Belleisle villages, situated near the head of the bay, and 7 M. from Norton, ou the Intercolonial Railway (Route 16). At the head of the Lnnp; Reach a granite ridgo turns the river to the N. and X. W. and narrows it for several miles. 4-5 M. above Belleisle Ray Spoon Islaiid is passed, above which, on the r. bank, is the shipbuildinea-arm8 and tiords of Swedoki and Norway." St. Mnnfs and Nashicanlsis are opposite Fredericton, on the 1. bank of the St. John, and are reached by a steam-ferry. Here is the terminus of the New Brunswick Railway (to Woodstock) ; and here also are the great lumbcr-tnills of Mr. Gibson, with the stately church and comfortable homes which he ha« erected for his workmen. Nearly opposite the city is seen the mouth of the Nashwaak River, whose valley was settled by disbanded soldiers of the old Black Watch (42d Higlilanders). i i- i i; ' !' I li 4G Routes. FREDERICTON. In tho year 1690 the French government sent out the ChevaHcr de Tillebon as Governor of Acadia. When ho arrived at Port Royal (Annapolis), his capital, ho found that Sir William Phipps's New-England fleet liad recently captured and do- ptroyed its fortifications, po he ascended the St. John llivor and soon fixed his capi- lal at Nashwaak, where he remained for several years, organizing Indian forays on the settlements of Maine. In October, 1(51)0, an AnKlo-American army a-scended the St. John in the shipg AniiKhl, Province, and others, and laid siege to Fort Nashw.wk. The Chevalit-r de Villebon drew up his garrison, and addressed them with enthusiasm, and the de- tachments were put in charge of the Sicurs de la Cote, Tibierge, and Clignancourt. 'J'lie British royal standard was displayed over the besiegers' works, and for three days a heavy fire of artillery and musketry was kept up. The precision of the firo from La Cote's battery dismounted the hostile guns, and after seeing the Sieur do Falaise reinforce the fort from Quebec, the British gave up the siege and retreated down the river. The village of St. Anne was erected here, under the protection of Fort Nashwaak. Its site had been visited by De Monts in 1G(J4, during his exploration of the river. In 1757 (and lat«'r) the place was crowded with Acadian refugees fleeing from tho stern visitations of angry New Kngland on the Minas and Port lloyal districts. In 1784 came the exiled American Loyalists, who drove away the Acadians into tho wilderness of Madawaska, and settled a!jng these shores. During the following year Gov. Guy Carleton established the capital of the Province here, in view of the central location and pleasant natural features of the place. Since the formation of the Canadian Dominion, and tlie consequent withdrawal of the British garrison, Frederic ton has become dormar.c. 7 M. above Fredericton is Aukpnqne, the favorite home-district of the ancient Indians of the river. The name signifies " a beautiful expanse of the river caused by numerous islands." On the island of Sandous were the fortifications and quar- ters of the American forces in 1777, when the St. John River wa.s held by the expe- dition of Col. Allan. They reached Ankpaque on the f>th of June, and saluted tho new American flag with salvos of artillery, while the resident Indians, under Am- brose St. Aubin, their "august and noble chief,"' welcomed them and their cause. They patrolled tho river with guard-boats, aided the patriot residents on the banks, and watched the mouth of St. John harbor. After the canip on Ankpaque liad been established about a month it was broken up by a British naval force from below, and Col. Allan led away about 5(X) people, patriot Provincials, Indians, and their families. This great exodus is one of the most romantic and yet least kaown incidents of the American borders. It was conducted by canoes up the St. John to the ancient French trading-post called Fort Meductie, whence they carried their boats, families, ami household goods across a long portage ; then they ascended tho rapid Eel River to its reservoir-1. ke, from whose head another portage of 4 M. led them to North Pond. The long i)roccssion of exiles next defiled into the Grand Lake, and encamped for several days at its outlet, after which they descended the i'hiputneticook Lake and the St. Croix River, passed into the Lower Scliootflc Lake, and thence carried their families and goods to the head-waters of the IMachias River. Floating down that strcnn, tiiey reached Machias' in time to aid in beating off tho British squadron from that town. From Fredericton to the 2Iiramidd. Tlirough the Forest. The Royal Mail-stage leaves on IMonday, Wednesday, and Friday, at a very early hour, and tho passenger gets breakfast at Eastman's, and sleeps at Frazer's. The trip requires 2 days, and costs $G (exclusive of hotels), and the distance from Fredericton to Newcastle is 105 M. By far the gi-eater part of the route leads through an unbroken forest, and the road leaves much to be desired. After crossing the ferry at Fredericton \ Marhias is Bn'ul to be derived from the Frenrh word 3lagfa (mcnninp the Mngl), nnd it II licld tliat it wua discovered by the aucient French explorers un tlie Festival of the Magi. WASHADEMOAK LAKE. lioute 9. 47 Villebon jig capital, lio red and dc- L'd his capi- a forays on the ships hevalitT de ind tlie dc- ignancourt. id for tlirco 1 of the firo he Sicnr do d retreated Nashwaak. r tlio river, g from tlio striets. In IIS into tlie e following view of the )rinatiou of li garrisou, the ancient iver caused H and quar- »y the expc- Niluted the under Ani- their cause. I the banks, opaque had force from ndians , and cast kaowu St. John to irried tlieir icendcd the of 4 M. led the Grand icendcd tlic loitic Lake, hia-s River, ing off the 'rltlay, at tin's, and elusive of . By far , and the edericton rnp!), and It the Magi. I the ronte lies due N. and is as straight as an arrow for 9 M., when it roaches Nashwaak Village (small inn); thence it follows the Nashwaak IJiver for 6 M., to the hamlpt of Nashrvaak, above which it enters a wild country about the head-waters o*" the river. To the W. are tlio immense domains of the New Brunswick Land Company, on which a few struggling settle- ments are located. In the earlier days there was a much-travelled route between the St. John valley and the Miramichi waters, by way of the Nashwaak River, from whose upper waters a portage was made to the adjacent streams of the Miramichi (see "Vacation Tourists," for 1862-3, pp. 464-474). At about 40 M. from Fredericton the stage reaches Boies- toicn (small inn), a lumbering-village of 250 inhabitants, on the S. W. Miramichi River. This place was founded in 1822, by Thomas Boies and 120 Americans, but has become decadent since the partial exhaustion of the forests. The road now follows the course of the S. W. Miramichi, passing the hamlets of Ludlow, 52 M. from Fredericton ; Doaktown, 55 M.; Blissfield, 62; Dunphy, 73; Blackville, 79; Indiantown (Rcnous River), 87; Derby, 96; and Newcastle, 105 (see Route 15). 9. Washademoak Lake. The steamer Star leaves St. John (Indiantown) on Tuesday, Thursday, and Sat- urday, at 10 A. M. for Cole's Island and the intermediate landings. The distiincc is about GO M . ; the fare is .$ 1. The boiits leave Cole's Island on the return trip at 7-30 A.M., on Wednesday, Friday, and Monday. The steamboat ascends the St. John River (see page 39) to the upper end of Long Island, where it turns to the N. E. in a narrow passage be- tween the Lower Musquash Island and the shores of Wickham. On either side are wide rich intervales, over which the spring inundations spread fertilizing soil; and the otherwise monotonous landscape is enlivened by clusters of elms and maples. After following this passage for 1\ M., the steamer enters the Washademoak Lake, at this point nearly 2 M. wide. The Washademoak is not proj -^rly a lake, but is the broadening of the river of the same name, which naintains a width of from ^ M. to 2 il. from Cole's Island to its mouth, a distance of 25-30 M. It is deep and still, and has but little current. In the spring-time and autumn rafts de- scend the lake from tlie upper rivers and from the head-waters of the Cocagne, and pass down to St. John. The scenery is rather tame, being that of alluvial lowlands, diversified only by scattered trees. There are 10 small hamlets on the shores, with from 150 to 250 inhabitants each, most of them being on the E. shore. The people are engaged in farming and in freighting cord-wood to St. John. About 6 M. above IMcDonald's Point, Lewis Cove opens to the S. l]., running down for about 3 M. into the parish of Wickham ; and 4-5 M. f\irtlier on are the Narroics, Avhere the lake is nearly cut in two by a bold bluft' projecting from the E. shore. Colt's Island has about 200 inhabitants, and a small hotel. It is 20 M. ' i ^l' 48 Route 10. GRAND LAKE. from Apohnqui, on tlie Intercolonltil Railway. Roads run across the pe- ninsula on the N. W. to Grand Lake in 5-7 M. It is 38 M. from Cole's Island to Petitcodiac, on the Intercolonial Railway, by way of Brookvale, The Forks, and New Canaan. The Washadcmoak region has no attrac- tions for the summer tourist. 10. Grand lake. The steamer May Queen loaves St. John (Tndiantown) on TVednesday and Satur- day at 8 A. M., for iinind Lake and the Salmon l»ivcr. The distance is 86 M. ; the fare is $ 1.50. She leaves Salmon River on Monday and Thursday mornings ; and touches at Qagetowu in ascending and descending. Grand Lake is 30 M. long and from 3 to 9 M. wide. It has a tide of 6 inches, caused by thj backwater of the St. John River, thrown up by the high tides of the Bay of Fundy. The shores are low and uninteresting, and are broken by several deep coves and estuaries. There are numerous hamlets on each sid( , but they are all small and have an air of poverty. It is reasonably hoped, however, that these broad alluvial plains will be- come, in a few decades, the home of a large and i)rosperous population. The lands in this vicinity were granted at an early date to the Sieur de Frencusp, a young Parisian, the sou of that Sieur dc Clignancourt who was so active in settling the St. John valley and in defending it against the New-Englandcrs. On Charle- voix's map (dated 1744) Grand Lake is called Lac Freneusc, and a village of the same name is indicated as being a few miles to the N. These shores were a favorite camp- ing-ground of the ancient Milicete Indians, whose descendants occasionally visit Grand Lake in pursuit of muskrats. The lumber business, always baneful to the agricultur.xl interests of a new country, has slackened on account of the exhc "stiou of the forests on the Salmon River ; and it is now thought that a farming population will erelong occupy the Grand Lake country. The steamer ascends the St. John River (see page 39) as far as Gaffe- town, where it makes a brief stop (other landings on the lower river are sometimes visited). She then crosses to the mouth of the Jemseg (see page 43), where the Jemseg River is entered, and is followed through its narrow, tortuous, and pictiu'csque course of 4 M. This is the most inter- esting part of the journey. "When nearly through the passage the boat stops before the compact hamlet of Jemseg, occupying the slope of a hill on the r. On entering the lake, a broad expanse of still water is seen in front, with low and level shores d'^nuded of trees. On the 1. is Scotch- town (150 inhabitants), near which is a channel cut through the alluvium, leading (in 2 M.) to Maquajnl Lake, which is 5 ^I. long and 2-3 M. wide. This channel is called the Thoroughfare ; is passable by large boats; and leads through groves of elm, birch, and maple trees. 1 M. from the W. end of Maquapit Lake is French Lake, accessible by another " Thorough- fare," and 3-4 M. long, nearly divided by a long, low point. This lake is 6-G M. from SheftieUl, on the St. John River. The channel is marked out by poles rising from the flats on either side. (The course of the steamer is liable to variation, and is here described as followed by the Editor.) Robinson's Point is first visited, with its white I GRAND LAKE, Route 11. 49 the pe- Cole's okvale, attrac- id Satur- M. ; the ngs; and tide of 6 p by the cresting, umerous poverty. ( will be- lation. Freneusp, in settling in Charle- f the fiauie rite camp- nally visit ful to the sxhfstion population as Gage- river are mseg (see irough its lost inter- the boat 3 of a hill is seen in is Scotch- alluvium, M. •wide. oats; and m the W. riiorough- his lake is ither side, scribed as I its white lighthouse rising from the E. shore; and the steamer passes around Into ]VIitte''s Cove, where there is a farming settlement of 200 inhabitants. Thence the lake is crossed to the N. to Keyhole, a curious little harbor near the villages of Maquapit and Douglas Harbor. After vi'^iting Mill Cove and Wiggin's Cove, on the E. shore, and Young's Cove (2 iims), the boat rounds Cumberland Point and ascends the deep Cumberland Bay, at whoso head is a populous farming settlement. On the way out of the bay Cox's Point is visited, and then the narrowing waters at the head of the lake are entered. At Newcastle and other points in this vicinity, attempts have been made at coal-mining. The conl district about the head of Grand Lake covers an area of 40 square miles, and the coal is said to be of good quality and in thick seams. But little has yet been done in the way of mining, owing to the difficulty of transporting the coal to market. Soon after passing Newcastle Creek the steamer ascends the N. E. arm, rounds a long, low point, and enters the Salmon Biver. This stream is ascended for several miles, through the depressing influences of ruined forests not yet replaced by farms. Beyond Ironbound Cove and the Coal Mines, the boat ties up for the night at a backwoods settlement, where the traveller must go ashore and sleep in a room reserved for wayfarers in an adjacent cottage. Brigg^s Corner is at the head of navigation, and a road runs thence N. E. across the wlldcrnosa to Riehibucto, in 50 -GO M. It is stated by good authority that the fishing in tho Salmon River has been ruined by the lumber-mills ; but that very good sport may bo found on the Lake Stream, 15-20 M. beyond Brigg's Corner. Visitors to this district must bo provided with full camp-cquipagc. A road also leads N. W. from Rrigg's Corner (diverging from the Riehibucto road at Gaspercau) to Blissville, on the ii. W. Miramichi, in about 40 M. 11. Fredericton to Woodstock. By the Neto Brunswick Railway, a new line which has been but recently opened to trade. It is a narrow-gauge roud, and travellers who are not familiar with that principle of railway-building will be interested in observing the comparatively low and narrow, but comfortable cars ; the small locomotives ; and tho construction of the bridges, the sharpness of the curves, and tho steepness of the grades. The New Brunswick Railway is now completed to Florenceville, and is being graded to Tobiciue, whence it is proposed to construct a branch to Cariboo, 13 M. up tho rich valley of the Aroostook. The company hopes that tlie line will be car- ried through to Riviere du lioup, on the St. Lawrence, at no distant date. Stations. Gibson; St. Mary's, 1 M. ; Douglas, 3; Springhill, 5) ; Rockland, 10; lU'swick, 12; Cardigan, lOi ; Lawrence, 17i ; Zealand, 20; Stoneridge, 22J; Burnsido, 25; Upper Keswick. 28i ; Burt Lake, 32 : IIayne8villo,36i ; Millville,38j ; Nackawic, 43; Falls Brook, 48; Woodstnck Junction, 62 ; Newburgh. 57; River- side, GO ; Northampton, 6I4. Faro from Fredericton to Woodstock, S1.75. Beyond Woodstock Junction the Now Brunswick Railway runs N. to Ilartland (61 M. from Fredericton) and to Florenceville (71 M). The trains make connections with stages for Tobique and the upper St. John valley. The traveller crosses the St. John River by the steam ferry-boat (5c.), from Fredericton to Gibson; and the terminal station of the railway is near the ferry-landing. As the train moves out, pleasant views are afforded 3 D 60 Route 11. FKEDERICTON TO WOODSTOCK. ,\' i 1 :.' ! II of the prosperous nnd liappy settlements which have been founded hereby Mr. Gibson, the lunibcr-inerchiuit. (Jlinipses of Fredoricton nre obtained on the 1., nnd beyond St. Mary's the Nnshwaaksis Ilivor is crossed. Tlicn follows a succession of bciuitirul views (to the 1.) over the wide aiul placid St. John, dotted with numerous large and level islands, upon which nro clusters of gra< ful trees. On the farther shore is seen the village of Springhill (sec page 51) ; and the broad expanse of Sugar Island crosses the river a little way above. At about 10 M. from Fredericton the lino changes its course from W. to N. W., and leaves the St. John valley, ascending the valley of tin' Keswick, — a district which is boijinning to show the rewards of the arduous labors o( early pioneers. The Keswick Valley was settled in 1783, by the di oandcd American-loyalist corps of New York and the Royal Guides, and tlieir descendants are now attacking the remoter back-country. The Keswick flt-ws through a pleasant region, and has bold features, the chief of which is the escarped wall of sandstone' on the 1. bank, reaching for 8-10 M. from its month. From Cav'igan station a road leads into the old Welsh settlement of Cardujan. The line next passes Rcvcral stations on the old domain of the New Brunswick Land Conijmny, an association wliich was inoorjioratcd by royal charter before 1840, and jiurchased from the Crown 550,000 acres in York County. They estubllshed their caiiital and chief agency at the village of Stanley, oyQuvix roads thr;ht by the urinur-plutc uiiiiiufiKtiinrM in Eiii^land. On six dillerent trials, plates of Woodstoek iron were only sli;ililly in- dented by an Armstronn sb >t, which ^*hattel•ed to pieces serap mm jilatesof the best (|iiality and of similar thiclviicss. When cast it has a fine silvcr-tjray color, is slnt^u- larly close-grained, and rings lik(! steel on being struck. A cubic incl> of Wood- Stock iron weighs '12 p< r cent more than the like (juantity of Swedish, Russian, or Ea-tt Indian iron.'' (II ^ Aiithuu Ookdo-N.) The mines are some distance from the village, and are being worked offlcieutly, their products being much used for the Uritish iron-clad frigat«!S. The \. II. & 0. Railway runs S. from A\'o(»dsjock to St Stephen and St. Andrews (.«eo page 315); fare, $2.90. Tho N. B. Railway goes S. E. to Fredericton ; fare, $ 1.75. Steamers run to Fredericton and to (Jrand Falls, when tl>e river is high enough. StJiges pass by the river-road to Fredericton semi-weekly, and duily stages run N. to Uraud Falls, and uiso W. to lluultou. 12. Fredericton to Woodstock, by the St. John Eiver. During the spring and autumn, when there i-< enough water in tho river, thta route is served by steamboats. At other times the journey may be made by the mail-stuge. Tho distan. e is 02 M. ; the faro Is !$2.6U. I'lio stage is uncovei"d, and hence is undesirable as a means of conveyance except in plea.sant weather. Most travellers will prefer to pass between Fndericton and Woodstock by tho new rail- way (see Route 11). The stage pa.s.ses u|> the S. aud W. side of tho river. The en- suing itinerary speaks of the river-villages in their order of location, without refer- ence to the stations of the stages and steamboats. Distances. —Fredericton to Springhill, 5 M. ; Lower French Village, 9: Bris- tol (Kingsdear), 16; Ix)wer I'rinco William, 21 ; Prince William, 2o ; Dumfrit 32; Pokiok Falls, 39 ; Lower Canterbury, 44 ; Canterbury, 61 ; Lower Woodstock ; \\ ood- stock, 52. On leaving Fredericton, pleasant prospects of the city and its Nash- waak suburbs are aflbrdcd, and successions of pretty views are obt; ,; d over the rich alluvial ishinds which till the river for over 7 M., up to tho mouth of the Keswick iliver. Springhill (S. shore) is the first village, and has about 250 inhabitants, with an Episcopal church and a small inn. The prolific intervales of Sugar 1 land are seen on the r., nearly closing tho estuary of the Keswick, and ihe road passes < n to the Indian \ ^lage, where reside 25 families of the Milicete tribe. A short distance beyond is the Loicer French Vilhtye (McKinley's inn), inhabited by a farming population descended from the old Acadian fugitives. The road and river now run to the S. W., through tho rural parish of Kingsclear, which was settled in 1784 by the 2d Battalion of New Jersey Loyalists. Beyond the hamlet of Bristol (Kingsclear) Burgoyne's Ferry is reached, and the scat- tered cottages of Lower Queensbury are seen on the N. shore. After crossing Lung's Creek the road and river turn to the N. W., and soon reach the village of Lower Prince William (Wason's inn). 9 M. S. W. of this point is a settlement amid the beautiful scenery of Lake Ceorge, where an antimony-mine is being worked ; 3 M. beyond which is Magxindy (small inn), to the W. of Lake George. 52 Route 12. FORT MEDUCTIC. ,t lii t ' I :i ^ Tlio road i>a!!!'cs on to Prince Williiim, throuph a parish which was originally scttlctl by tlio King's American Dnipoons, and is now occujjitMl by their descendants. On the X. shore arc th<> hilly nplands of the parish of Quocnsbnry, which were settled by the disbanded men of the Queen's Rangers, after the Kevolutionary War. Kich intervale islands arc seen in the river between these parishes. Heyond Dumfriat (small hotel) the hamlet of I'ppcr Queensbury is seen on the N. shore, and the river sweeps around a broad bend at whose head is Pok'wk, with largt lumber-nulls, 3 M. from Allandale. There is a fine pier e of scenery here, where the Kiver Pokiok (an Indian word meaning "the Dreadful Place "), the out- let of Lake George, enters the St. John. The river first plunges over a perpendicular fall of 40 ft. and then enters a fine gorge, 1,200 ft. long, 75 1^. deep, and 25 ft. wide, cut through opposing ledges of dark rock. The Pokiok bounds down tiiis chasm, from step to ^tep, until it reaches the St. John, and affords a beautiful sight in time of high water, although its current is often encumbered with masses of rin'-rafi' and rubbish from the saw-mills above. 'J'he gorge should be inspected from below, although it cannot be ascended along the bottom on account of the velocity of the contracted stream. About 4 M. from Pokiok (and nearer to Dumfries) is the j)retty highland water of Prince William Lake, which is nearly 2 M. hi diameter. Lowur Ointerhunj (inn) is about 5 M. beyond Pokiok, and is near the mouth of the Sheogomoc River, flowing out from a lake of the same name. At Cnnterbunj (Iloyt's inn) the Eel River is crossed; and about 5 M. be- yond, the road passes the site of the old French works o{ Fort Mtductic. This fort conimanded the portapc Ijotwocn the St. John and the route by the upper Eel Kiver nud tlie Kel and North LhIvI'H to tlic Chiputneticook Lukes and I'ast'ania- quoddy Hay. Portions of thene ])orta(;eH are marked by deep imthways worn in the rot'ks by the moceasons of many genenitions of Indian hunters and warriors. By this route inarched the devastating savage tmops of the Chevalier de Villebon to many a niertiless foray on the New England borders. Tlie land in this vicinity, and the lordship of the Milicete town at RIeductic, were granted in 1(184 to the ifieur t'lignancourt, the brave Parisian who aided in repelling the troops of MaKsachusetta from the fort on the .Ienisi>g. Here, also, during high water, the Indians were obliged to make a portage around the Meductie Ku])ids, and the command of this point was deemed of great importanco and value. (See also the account of Allan's retreat, ou page 46.) Off this point arc the Meductie Rapids, where the steamboats sometimes find it difficult to make headway against the descending waters, accel- erated by a slight incline. The road now runs N. through the pleasant valley of the St. John, with hill-ranges on either side. Lower Woodstock is a prosperous settlement of about 500 inhabitants, and the road soon apjiroaches the N. B. & C. Railway (see page 37), and runs between that line and the river. " Tlie approach to Woodstock, fVom the v M church upwards, is one of the pleas- antest drives in the Province, the road being shaded on eitlier side witli fine trees, and the comfortable ioi-m-houses aud garden^, the scattered clumps of wood, the *> FLORENCEVILLE. Route 13. 53 winrllnfts of tho pfimt rlvrr, tho plotiiresquo knoll.*, nnd the (?Jiy npponmnro of tho priUy «traj?(?lin' little town, all giving an air of a long-»cttk'd, iiouct-ful, EngUsh- looking rouutr) . ' (Uokdon.) **■ I I 13. Woodstock to Grand Falli and Riviere du Loup. The pleasantor ronto to Grand FalN Is hy the stonmbont'*, — small, light-dmuffht craft, which wuttle up the rapidn iind ovtT the HhallowH iw long tt« thuro is enough water in the rivt-r (usually only duriu); tho springtime and autumn). The lloyal niail-HUigeH leave \V(M)dsKK-k at t! P. M. daily : Mupix-r at Middle Siinonds (Mills'H), 15 M. out; hruakfaHt at Tohi^ue, at 4 A. M. ; n-ach (Jrand Kalin at K a. m., and remain one hour; dinner at Ik-lyeaV, 18 M. beyond ; »up|>er at Jkinuuidston, and remain one hour ; breakfast at l^i Belle's, at 1 a. M., and rearh Uivlero du Loup in time for the morning train for Quebec or Montreal. The time between Wood- stock and lUvifcre du Loup is .'ii)-40 hours. The New Brunswick llailway has been extended beyond Woodstock Junction to Flon-tJcevillc ami Muniac, and stagi-s con- nect with the trains at the latter station and run through to Tobique. The railway will probably reach tho latter poiut this year. I'as.sengers leave Woodstock ( North- ampton i at 8 A. M., change cars at Woodstock Junction, and reach Muniac about 3.20 p. M. DltilanceB. — Woodstock to Victoria, 11 M. ; Florencevillo, 24; Tobiquo, 50 ; Grand Falhi, 75; Kdnuindston, 113; Uivlero du Loup, ll>3. Fares. — By stage, Woodstock to Floronceville, )« 1 50 ; Toblquc, S3; Grand VvSU, .54.25; Grand Falls to JrV'v.uudston, $250; Edmundston to Ulviero du ^joup, ^6. 71, c rofttl from Wootlstock tf V- .ixnccville i.s pleasant nnd in nn at- tractive country. "It is '* ch. i'^lngii-'' , nnd pretty When I .say Eng- lish, I ouglit, perhaps, nitiir . tc y<\y S< otch, for tho general features are those of the lowhu. ' pnr s -A iVi'tlr^'ilre, though tho luxuriant vegeta- tion — tall crops of ' n ". ui-'ininr' ivids of golden wheat, and fine well- grown hard-wood — speaks oi « ,i.n'0 southern latitude. Single trees and clunips are here left about tho fields and on tho hillsides, under the shado of wiiich well-looking cattlo may bo seen resting, whilst on the other hand arc pretty \iew3 of river and distance, visible under fine willows, or through birches that carried mo back to Deeside." (Hon. Autiiuu Goi'.DON.) Soon after leaving Woodstock tho stage-road takes a direction to tbo N E., keeping along the W. bank of tho St. John River. Victoria and Middle Simonds (Mills's Hotel) are quiet hamlets on tho river, centres of agricultural districts of 5-800 inhabitants each. Florenceville (largo hotel) is a pretty village, "perched, like an Italian town, on the very top of a high bluff far over the river." The road now swings around to the N. W. and traverses tho settlements of Wicklow. The district between Woodstock and Wicklow was settled after the American Revolution by the disbanded soldiers of the West India Rangers and the New Brunswick Fencibles. " Between Florencevillo nnd Tobiquo the road becomes even prettier, winding along tho bank of tho St. .lohn, or through woody glens that combine to my eye Somersetshire, Perthshire, and the green wooded part of southwestern Germany." There are five distinct terraces along the 64 Jtoute 13. TOBIQUE. i! hi valley, showing the geological changes in the level of the river, and the banks of the stream are composed of sand and gravel. The intervale is usually narrow, and is broken frequently by intrusive highlands. ■ 6 M. S. W. of the river is ^lars Hill, a steep mountain about 1,200 ft. high, which overlooks a vast expanse of forest. This was one of tl o chief points of controversy during the old border-troubles, and its summit was cL-ared by the Commissioners of 1794. The road now crosses the River dcs CluUes, at whose mouth are large saw-mills, near the site of an an- cient waterfall which has disappeared on nccount of the erosion of the rocks. Above this point the country is less thickly settled, and the road passes up near the river. Perth village is seen on the K. shore, and the narrowing valleys of Victoria County are traversed. Tobique (Newcomb's inn), otherwise known as Andover, is pleasantly situated on the W. bank of tlie St. John, nearly opposite the mouth of the Tobique Kiver. It has 400 inhabitants und 2 churches, and is the chief depot of supplies for the lumbering-camps on the Tobique River. Nearly opposite is a large and picturesque Indian village, containing about 150 persons of the Milicetc trii)e, and situated on the blulTat the confluence of the rivers. They have a valuable reservation here, and the men of the tribe engage in lumboring and boating. Fort Fairfield (Fort Fairfidtl House) is 7 M. N. W. of Tobique, and is jn Anu'rican Imnler-town , with 900 inhnbifaiits, 5 diurphcs, and several snuill lip- tories. This town was settltMl by men of New Brunswick in 1810, at whicii tin-,.! it was Kupposftl to 1)0 inside tlie Provincial line. A road runs from Fort Faii-flold S. W. to PrcRque Isle ( Presque Isle Hotel), a village of about 1 000 inhabitants, with 4 churches, an academy, several factories, and a newspaper (the "Presque Isle Sun- rise"). This town is 42 M. N. of Iloulton, on the U. S. military road which runs to the Madawaska district, and is one of the centres of tlie rich farming lands of the AroostookAalley, parts of which are now occupied by Swedish colonists. From Tobique to Bnihurst. Throvr/h the Wildei'ness. fluidcfl and canoes can bo obtained at the Indian village near Tobique. About 1 M. above Tobique the voyagers r.siend through the Narrows, where the rapid cur- rent of the Tobi(iue Kiver is confined in a winding canon (1 M. long, 150 ft wide, and 50-100 ft. deep) between high limestone cliffs Then the river broadens out into a pretty lake-like reach, with rounded and forest-covered hills on either fide. The first night-camp is usually made high up on this reach. Two more rapids are next passed, and then commences a stretch of clear, deep water 70 M. long. N«'ar the foot of tiie reach is the settlement of Art/nirette, with about 400 inhabitants. The lied Rapids are 11 M from the mouth of the river, and de.'^cend between liigh shores. Occasional beautifully wooded islands are passed in the stream; and by the evening of the second day the voyagers should reach the high red cliffs at the mouth of the broad Wapskehegan River. This Indian name signifies " a river with a wall at its mouth," and the stream may be ascended for 20 M., through a region of limestone hills and alluvial Intervales. The Wap.skehegan is 31 M. above the mouth of the Tobique. Infrequent clearings, red cliffs along the shore, and blue hills more remote, en- gage the attention an the canoe ascends still farther, passing the hamlet of Foster''s Cove on the N. bank, and running along the shores of Diamond and Long Island, 44 M. up river is the Agulquac River, coming in from the E., and navigable by c¬-s for 25 M. As the intervales beyond this confluence are passed, occasional glimpses are gained (on the r.) of the Blue Mts. and other tall ridges. At 80 M. flrom the mouth of the river, the canoe reaches The Forks (4-6 days from Tobique>. > i 1(1 i r NICTOR LAKE. Route 13. 55 > The Campbell River here comes in from the E. nnd S. E., from the great Toblqne Lake and other remote wilderness-waters; the Momozcket descends from the N., and from the N. W. comes the Nictor, or Little Tobiquc lliver. It is a goo1 day'g journey from the Forks to Cedar Brook, on the Nictor; and cnother day conducta to the * Nictor Lake, " possessing more beauty of scenery than any other localit/ I have seen in the Province, except, perhaps, the Bay of Chalour. Close to its soutliern etlge a granite mountain rises to a height of nearly 3,(HI0 fl., clothed with wood to its Hunmiit, except wheR' it breaks into precipices of dark rock or long gray Bhinglv slopes. Other mountains of less height, but in some cases of more pictur- esque "forms, arc on other sides ; and in the lake itself, in the shadow of the moun- tain, is a little rocky islet of most invitfr.'j appearance." It takes 2-3 hours to ascend the mountain "(Bald, or Sagamook), whence " the view is ver>- fine. The lake lies right at our feet, — millions of acres of forest are spread out before us like a map, sinking and swelling in one dark mantle over hills and valleys, whilst Katah- din and Mars Hill in Maine, Tracadiegash in Canada, the Squaw's Cap on the Restigouche. and (Jreen Mountain in Victoria, are all di8tin<:tly visible." (Gordon.) From tne head of Nictor Lake a portage 3 M. long leads to the Neplsigult Lake, on whose E. shore in Jie remarkable peak called Mount TeneriiTe. Near the outlf^ is a famous camping-grouud, where the fishing is good and in whose vicinity deer and ducks are found. It takes about six days to descend the Nffisiguit River to the Great Falls, the larger part of the way being through forests of fir and between distant ranges of bare granite hills. Theie is a Provincial highway which follows the W. shore of the Tobique River, and touches the lower end of Nictor Lake, whence it runs N. ami N. E. across the uninhabited valley of the Upsalquitch to Campl>cllton, on the Restigouche. (See Route 14.) C M. ftbove Tobiquc is the month of the Aroostook River, which trav- erses a great area of northern Maine, and for the last 5 M. of its course is in New Brunswicli. It i.s not easily navigable on account of several rapids nnd the falls near Fort Fairfield; yet great quantities of lumber are floated do>vn its current. There is n thriving village near the rnouth of the river. 7 M. fixrther N. the hamlet of Grand Falls Portage is passed, and the road leaves the St. John, which here begins a broad bend to the W. About 10 M. above the Portage the steamboat or stage reaches Grand Falls (2 inns), otherwise known as Colebrooke. This town has about 700 inhabitants, and is picturesquely situated on a narrow peninsula near the cataract. It was formerly a fortified post of the British anny, and is now the capital of Victoria County. It is hoped that large manufiicturing interests will bo developed here when the railway is completed from Woodstock to Riviere du Loup. Daily stages leave for Woodstock and for Riviere du Loup; and steamboats descend the river during the brief seasons of navigation. The environs of the village are remarkable for their picturesque beauty, and the view from the Suspension Bridge over the gorge of the St. John is worthy of notice. The ** Grand Falls are near the village, and form the most imposing cataract in the Maritime Provinces. The river expands into a broad basin above, afibrding a landing-place for descending canoes; then hurries its massive current into a narrow rock-bound gorge, in which it slants down an incline of 6 ft., and then plunges over a precipice of calcareous slate 1 \ y 11' \i il II '. » 66 Route 13. GRAND FALLS. 58 ft. hijrh. The shape of the fall is singular, since the water leaps from the front and fn>m both sides, with minor and detached cascades over the outer ledges. Ik'low tl>c cataract the river whirls and whitens for \ M. through a rugged irorge 250 ft. wide, whose walls of dark rock are from 100 to 240 ft. high. " It is a narrow and frightful chasm, lashed by the troubled water, and excavated by boiling eddies and whirlpools always in motion; at last tho water plunges in an immense frothy sheet into a basin below, wh'^ro it becomes tranquil, and the stream resumes its origi- nal features." Within the gorge the river falls 58 ft. more, and the rug- ged shores are strewn with the vvrocks of lumber-rafts which have become entangled here. The traveller should try to visit the Falls when a raft is about passing over. 3-4 .M. below the Falls is the dangerous Rapide de Femme. Small stertmt rs have been placed or. the river above the Falls, and have run as far as the mouth of the St. Francis, OC JL distant. It is a tradlMon of the Mimincs that in a remote ago two famiiicn of their tribe were on the iipiwr St. .loUn hutithin, and wore surprised l)y a war-party of tho Btraiige and dreadt'd Northern Indians. Tiie latter were descendinu; tlie river to at- tack the lower Micniac villages, and fon ed the captured women to pilot them down. A few mill's above the falls they asked their lunvillinR j^uides if tlie 8tn>ani was all Bumoth below, and on rorcivinjr an afHrniative answer, lashed the canoes together into a raft, and went to sleej), exhausted with their march. When near the Urand Fall.s the women quietly dropped overboard and swam ashore, while the hostile war- riors, wrap|)ed in slumber, were swept down into the rapids, only to awaken when escape was impossi'jle. Their bodies were strii)ix'd by tlu' Micmacs on the river be- low, and the brave women were ever afterward held in liigh honor by the tribe. Crossing the .St. John at Grand Falls, the stage ascends the E. bank of the stream, and soon enters the Acadian-French settlements and fiirming- districts. 8-10 M. uj) the road is the village of St. Lionai'd, nearly all of whose people arc French; and on tho American shore (for the St. Join River is for many leagues the frontier between the nations) is the simi- larly constituted village of Vcn Burtu (two iims). This district is largely peopled by the Cyr, Violette, and Michaud families. The lion. Arthtir Gordon thus describes one of ♦!iO.'^" Acadian homes near (iran'l River (in 18(53): "The whole aspect of the farm wa.s that of a viclairie in Nor- mandy ; the outer doors of tlie house gaudily painted. tl»e panels of a dilTerent color from the frame,— the large, open, unearpeted room, witii its bare shining floor, — the lasses at the siiinniiig-wheel, — tlie French costume and appearance of Madame Violet and ■.r sons and daughters, — all carried me back to tlic other side of the Atlantic." Grand River (TardifT's inn) is a hamlet about 4 M. beyond St. Leonard, at the mouth of the river of tlic same name. The St. .John Rlrer to the Rcstif/ouche. A nxgged wilderness-journey may be made on tliLs line, by engaging Acadian guides and canoes at the Madawiuskaeettlemcnts. 3-4 weeks will be suflicient time to reach tho Bay of Chalenr, with plenty of fishing on tlie way. On leaving the .•'t. John the voyagers a.«((iid the (!rai:d lliver to its triliutary, the \Vi gausis. A port- ago of 6 -(i M. from this stream leads to the Waagan, down wliost. narrow current tho canoes float through the forest until the broad ilestigouclie is entered (see Koutu 16 } Bee also Hon. Arthur Gordon iu " Vacation Tourlsta " for 1802 - W3, p. 477). '.'I MADAWASKA. Route 13. 57 I 6 M. above Grand River is St. Basil (two inns), which, with its back settlements, has over 1,400 inhabitants. A few miles beyond are some islands in the St. John River, over which is seen the American village of Grant Isle (Levecque's inn), a place of 700 inhabitants, all of whom arc Acadians. This village was incorporated in 1869, and is on the U. S. mail- route from Van nuren to Fort Kent. Beyond the populous village of Green River the road continues around the great bend of the St. John to the Acadian settlement which is variously known as Madawaska, Ed- mundston, and Little Falls. There are about 400 inhabitants here, most of whom are engaged in lumbering and in agriculture. The town occupies a favorable position at the confluence of the Madawaska and St. John Rivers, and it is to be the objective point of the New Brunswick Railway (see page 50) during the year 1875. This is the centre of the Acadian- French settlements which extend from the Grand Falls to the mouth of the St. Francis, and up the Mtidawaska to Temiscouata Lake. This dis- trict is studded with Roman Catholic chapels, and is divided into narrow farms, on which are quaint little houses. There are rich tracts of intervale along the rivers, and the people are generally in a prosperous and happy condition. The visitor should ascend to the top of the loftily situated old block-house tower, over Edmundston, for the sakeof the wide prospect over the district. This people is dcFrcndod from the French colonists who livod on the shores of the Bay of Fuiiily and tl\o llasin of Minus at tlie middle of the IStli century. >Vlien tlio cruel edict of exile was carried into effect in 1755 (se<' Route 21), many of tlio Acadians tied from the Anglo-American troops and took refuge in the forest. A por- tion of them ascended the St. .John to the present site of Fredericton, and founded a new home ; but they were ejected .'JO years later, in order that the land mi^rht he given to the refugee American Loyalist.s. Then they advanced into the trackles.s forest, ami .settletl in the Madawaska region, where they have been permitted to re- main undisturbed. When the American frontier wius pushed forward to the St. .lohn River, by the .«harp diplomacy of Mr. Webster, the Acadians found themselves divided by a national boundary ; and so they still remain, nearly half of the villages being on the side of the United States. It is estimated that there are now about 8,000 persons in these settlements. " It was pleasant to tlrive alonfr the wide flat intervale which formed the Jlada- waska Valley ; to see thr rich c;ops of oats, buckwheat, and potatoes ; the large, often handsome, and exteti.r.iiy clean and comfortable-looking houses of the inhab- itants, with the wooded high grounds at a distance on our right, and the river on our left, — on which an occasicmal boat, laden with stor(>s for the lumberers, with the help of stout horses, toiled against the current towards the rarely visited head- waters of the tributary streams, where the virgin forests still stood unconscious cf the axe. This beautiful valley, with the rich lands which l>order the river above the mouth of the Madawaska, a.» far almost as that of the river St. Francis, is the peculliir seat of the old Acadian-French." (I'nor -Ioiinston.) The American village of IflndaxyaHka (iwo inns) is opposite E Imundston, and has over 1,000 inhabitants. The U. S. mail-stjiges run from this point up the val- ley of the St. .lohn for 10 M. to another .\cadian viM.ige, which was first named Dioimo (in bono*- of Father Dionne, who founded liere the Church of St. Luce) ; in 18(50 was incorporated as Dickey ville, in lumor of some l'>cal statesman ; and in 1871 received the name of Fivncliville, "as describing thj nationality of its settlers." From near Frencbville a portage f, M. long leads to the shores of TM/ce Ciefetatift, a line sheet (^f water M. long, conni-cted by Second Lake and Luke Preble with Lake Sedgwick, which la nearly 10 .M. long. w 58 lioiiie 13. TEMISCOUATA LAKE. 'P ^ 16 M. S. W. r»f MadawnFka is Fort Kent, nn old bordor-post of the U. S. Army. It has two inns and about 1,(KX) inh»i)itants (inrlmliiiK the adjacent farijiinR settle- ments), and is the terminus of tlie mail-route fioin Van lluren. From this point stages run W. '20 M. to the Acadian village of St. Francis, near the mouth of the St. Francis Hiver. The latter stream, flowing from the N. U'., is the boundary of the United States for the next 40 M., descending through the long lakes called Wela- stookwaagauiis, IVchtaweekaagomic, and I'ohonegamook. Above the mouth of the St. Fnincis, the St. John River is included in the State of Maine, and flows through that imnicn.>-e and trackless forest which covers " an extent seven times that of the famous Black Forest of (.Jermany at its largest expanse in modern times. The Suites of Uho(l:> Island, Connecticut, and Delaware could be lost together in our northern forests, au;! still leave about each a margin of wilderness sufliciently wide to make the exploration witiiout a compass a work of desperate adventure." Its chief tributary in the woods is the Allagash, which descends from the great Lakes Pemgockwahen aiid Chambcrlyin, near the Chesuncook and Moosehcad Lakes and the head-waters of the Penobscot. The U. S. mail-stages al.so run S. from Fort Kent to Patten, about 100 M. S., near Mount Katahdin ; wlitncc another stage-line runs out to Mattau'a»ikeafi, on the E. om the W., Temiscouata receives the Cal)ineau Uiver, the outlet of Long Lake (15 by 2 M.); and on the E. is the Tuladi River, which rises in the highlands of Rimouski and fiowsdown through a chain of secluded and rarely visited lakelets. The cluof settle- ment on Temiscouata Lake is the French Catholic hamlet of Notre Dame du Lac, which was founded since 1861 and has 180 inhabitants. The mili- tary works of Fort Ingalls formerly commanded the lake, and hud a gar- rison of 200 men as late as 1850. "Temiscouata Lake is a line large sheet of Avater, 'JO 'M. long ; it is deep, contains plenty offish, and there are hills about it, dou i Vac vulkn> and ravines of Avhich rush winds which occasion sudden and 'lUif" n.us agitation in the dark waters." The roail from Temiscouata Lake to Riviere du Loup is 40-50 M. long, and descends through a wild region into which a few settlers have {rdviincod within fifteen years. t SHEDIAC. Route 14. 59 nj. It Pcttle- Is point the St. of the M't'la- JUtll of Id iiows 108 that ts. The in our tly wido Its It Laki'fl Ikes and T 14. St. John to Shediac. DIstnnces. — Pt. John to Monrton, 89 M. ; Painsec Junction, 97; Dorchester Itoi^, 102; Slicdiac, lOU ; Point du ChOne, 108. St. JoUn to Tainpcc Junction, see Route 16. rassengors for Slieuiac and Point du ChC'ne change cars at Painsec Junction, and pass to tlio N. E. over a level and unproductive country. Shediat (Kirk Hotel) is a marine vdlage of 500 inhabitant*, with 3 churchci:, — Ilaptist, tlie Catholic St. Josopli de Sliediac, and St. Andrew's, tlio hoad of a rural deanery of the Anglican church. The town is well situated on a broad harbor, which is sheltered by Shediac Island, but its commerce is inconsiderable, being limited to a few cargoes of lumber and deals sent annually to tJroat Britain. The small oysters ( Ostrca amideims) of the adjacent waters are also exported to the provincial cities. Shedinc was occupied I)y a French garri.-.on in 1750, to protect the borders of Acadia, and in 1757 there were 2,000 French and Acadian troops and settlors here. The French element i.. still predominant in this vicinity, and its interesis are represented by a weekly paper called " JLe Moniteur Armfi'en.'" Point du CUne (Schurman's Point du Cheno Ilnuse) Is 2 M. N. E. of Shediac, and Is the E. terminus of the railway and the St. Lawrence port nearest to St. John. It has a village of about 200 inhabitants, with long piers reaching out to the deep-water channels. From this point passen- gers embark on the steamers for Prince lulward Island, the N. shore of New IJrunswick (see Route 15), and Quebec and the (Julf Ports. Daily steamers run from Shediac to Summerside, P. E. I., where they mako connections with the trains of the P. E. I. Railway (see Route 43). Tho Gulf Ports steamers ply between Point du Cheno and Pictou, the time of transit being about 12 hours, and the route being down the Xortliumber- land Strait, with the red shores of Prince Edward Island ou the 1. In tho time-tables and circulars of tho steamships aiid railways, tho term Shediac h generally used for Point du ClicMie. 2%^ ]Vrst))wrlnnil Cnnst. Tiifrorjucnt mail-stages run E. from Shodiao by Point du C'hGne to Itiirucliois, 8 M. ; Todish,17; (Ircat Shcnioguo (.Award's Hotel), 22; and Little SiiojuoRUP, 24. These settlements eontain about l,50t) inhabitants, most of whom are Acadians. Cap'^s Jonrinnin (fixed white li;^ht, visible 14 M.) and Tor- nientine ar.- respectively 15 M. and 20 M. K. of Little .^ihemogue. 10 - 12 M. *) . of.Shediac (mail-stage dally) arothe largo and i)rosperous Acadian settle- nientsof the Corui^nef (three inns), having al)Out l,.')Oil inhabitants, seven eighths of whom are of French descent. These people are nearly all farmers, engaged in tilling the level plains of Dundas, although a good harbor opens between the villages. 21 M. from J^'Lediac is Buctotiche (two inns), u prosperous Acadian village of 4lK) iuhub- itautii, engaged iu ubipbuilOiug and iu th« uxportatiou of lumber unci oysters. I GO Jiotite 15. RICHIBUCTO. 15. The Bay of Chaleur and the North Shore of New Brunswick. The vcjmols of the Quebec and Oulf Ports Steamship Line, the Secret and the Miramic/ti, leave I'ictou every Tuesday morning at 7 o'elocli, and Shcdiac (Point du Chene) every Tuesday evening at 7 (after tlie arrival of the St. John train). They then aseend the coast, leaving Chatham at 7 a, m. on \> edncsday, Newcastle at 8 A M. on Wednesday, and Dalhousie at 4 a. .m. on Thursday (for Quebec) Returning, they leave Dalliousie at I) p.m. on Thursday, Chatham at 4 p. M. on Friday, New- castle at P.M. on Friday, Shediac at li a.m. on Saturday (connecting with the morning train to St. Jolui), and arrive at I'ictou at 1 p. m. on Saturday (connecting with the afternoon train to IFalifax). These hours arc liable to variation on account of the weatlier, or if heavy freiglits are landed or taken at any port. The CJulf Ports vessels are larger and more conunodious than Miat of the North Shore Line, but they do not visit llichibucto, Kathurst, or Campbellton. (Sec also Jloute .) The North Shore steamer Citi/ of St. John leaves Shediac (Point du Chfine) every Thursday, on the arrival of the morning train from St. John, and calls at llichi- bucto, Cliatham, Newcastle, Bathurst, Dalhousie, oni Campbellton. Chatham is reached on Thursday evening, the Bay-of-Chaleur ports on Friday. The steamer leaves the Ilay-of-Chaleur ports on Monday, and tlie Miramichi ports on Tuesday, arriving at Shediac Tuesday evening, and connecting with a late train for St John. Fares (North Shore Line). — St. John (by railway and steamship) to Richibucto, S5; to Chatliam and Newcastle, $6.50 ; to Bathurst, !iF 9 50 ; to Dalhousic, 3510; to Campbellton, S 10.50. DlKtanres from Shediac along the N. shore: To Richibucto, by sea, 38 M., by land, 34 M. ; to Chatham, by sea, 80 M., by land, 74 M. : to Bathurst, by land, 122 M. ; to Dalhousic, by sea^ 220 M., by land, 175 M. Daily mail-stages run N. by Cocagne and Buctoucho to Richibucto, Chitham, and Newcastle. TIio steamship leaves the lon<» railway whnrf at Point du Chenc, and passes the low shores of Shediac Island on tlie 1. The course is laid well out into the Northumberland Strait. Between Shediac Point and Capo EfTmont (on Prince Edward Island) the strait is nearly 20 M. wide. On tlio 1. the harbors of Cocagne and Buctouche (see page 59) are soon pas.^cd. 14^ M. X. of Buctouche are the low clifls and lighthouse of Richibucio Head, beyond which (if the weather permits) the steamer takes a more westerly course, and enters the great Richibucto River, which empties its stream through a broad lagoon enclosed by sand-bars. Bicbibuoto {Kent Hotel) is the ca[)ital of Kent County, and occupies a favorable position for commerce and shipbuilding, near the mouth of the Richibucto River. It has about 800 inhabitants and 3 churclie.«, and i; engaged in the exportation of fish and lumber. The river is navigable for 20 M., and has been a great highway for lumber-vessels, although now tho supply of the forests is welhiigh exhausted. The rubbish of the sav.- mills has destroyed the once valuable fisheries in this river. In the region about Richibucto arc many Acadian farmers, and the hamlet of Aldouiii River, 4 M. from the town, pertains to this people. Daily stages run from Richibucto to Shediac and to Chathnm (see page (51). A road leads S. ^^ . through the wilderness to tlie Grand Lake district (Route 10). The name Richibucto sigiifies " the River of Fire," and the shores of tho river and bay were formerly inhabited by a ferocious and bloodthirsty tiibeof Iiidiini'. So I'lte as ITST, wlicn the American Loyalist Powell settled here, tiiere were but four Cliri.^tian f;imiUea(and ihey wen- Ata-lianv) in ail this region (the present county of Kent). Tho power of the Richibuctos was broken in 17U4, when all their warrior?, I I New ! I CHATHAM. Route 15. CI I 1 under command of Argimooah (" the Groat Wizard "), attacked Canso and captured 17 Massachusetts vessels. Two well-manned vessels of IJoston and Caiw Ami were sent after them, and overtook the Indian lieet on the coast. A despcrato naval battle ensued between the Massachusetts sloop.s and the Indian prize-ships. The Uiclii- buetos fought with great valor, but were finally disconcerted by showers ot haud- grenad&s from tlic Americans, and nearly every warrior was either klUed or drowned. After emerging from l{ichibiicto harbor, the steamer runs N. across tho opening of the shallow Kouchibouguac Bay, whoso shores arc low sand- bars and beaches which enclose shoal lagoons. B M. above Point Sapin is Escuminnc Point, on which is a powerful white light, visible for 25 M. The course is now laid more to tho W., across tho Miromichi Bay, and on the 1. are seen tic pilots' village and tho lighthouses on Preston's Beach. The entrance to the Inner Bay of Miramichi is between Fox Island and Portage Island, the latter of which bears a lighthouse. The Inner Bay is 13 INI. long and 7-8 ^1. wide, and on tho S. is seen Vin Island, back of which is the Ban ^" ^'*»' '^^^'^ centuries ago all this shore was occupied by French settlements, whoso only remnant now is the hamlet of Portage Road, in a remote corner of the bay. Wlicn about 9 M. from the entrance, tho steamer passes between Point Quart and Grand Dune Island (on the r.), which are Sf, M. apart. 3-4 ISl. fiu-ther on, the course is between Oak Point, with its two lighthouses (rn the r.), and Cheval Point, beyond which is the jjopulous valley of the Napan River, on tho S. Tho hamlet of Black Brook is visible on the 1., and off Point Napan is Sheldrake Island, a low and swampy land lying across the mouth of the river. The vessel noAv enters the Miramiolii River, and on the r. is the estuary of the Great Bartibog, with the beacon- lights on Malcolm Point. The Miramichi is here a noble siream, fully 1 M. wide, but floNving between low and uninteresting shores. Chatham ( Canada Hotel; Bowser's Hotel) is the chief town on the North Shore, and has a population of nearly 3,000, with 5 churches, a weekly newspaper, and a Masonic hall. It is 24 M. from the sea, and is built along the S. shore of the river for a distance of li M. On the summit of the hill along which the town is built is seen a great pile of Catholic in- stitutions, among which are the Cathedral of St. Michael, the convent and hospital of the Hotel Dieu de Chatham, and St. Michael's College. These buildings, like all the rest of the town, are of wood. The chief industries of Chatham are shipbuilding and the exportation of fish and lumber, and the river hero usually contains several large ships, which can anchor off the wharves in 6 - 8 fathoms. Daily stages run N. from Chatham to Bathure*-, in 45 M., over a road which trav- erses one of the dreariest regions imaginable. About 22 M. beyond Chatham it cros.ses the head-waters of the Tabusintac River) " the sportsman's paradise," a narrow and shallow stream in which an abundance of trout is found. Semi-weekly stages run from Chatham N. E. to Oak Point, 11 M. ; Burnt Church, 20; Neguac, 25; Tabusintac, 37 ; Tracadie, 52; Pockmouche, 64; Shippigan, 70; and Caraquette (Lower), 73. The first 30 M. of this j-oad are along (or near) the N. shore of the Miramichi Elver aud the Inner Bay, by tha hamlets of Oak Poiat and Burnt Church. M I I 02 7?o«/t' 15. THE MTRAMTCITT. Ilnrnt Church is f^tlll tli(< ('niiit:il of the Micnmc TndianR of tlio Provlnpo, and here they nathiT In (treat inmihers on St. Aime's Diiy and enpifte in religions riteg nnd athletic Kjiorts and dances, lion. Aithnr (ionlon nays: "1 was Kurpri.'^ed hy tlie 1 uriou.s re.'ieniljlanee iietween these dances and tho.>;eofthe (ireek l)ea.«antry. Even tlic eo,«tnnie.'< were in Konie (h'^trce similar, and 1 notieed more tiian one short colored-silk jacket and handkerchief hound hciid that carried mc hack to Ithuca nnd I'axo." (V.ac.vtion Tolui.st.s, iStiy ) Tabusintac (small inn) is near the month of the Tabusintao lUvcr, nnd i.s a Presbyterian village of about 400 Inhabitants, most of wliom are entrafred in the fisheries. Many largo pea-tront are caught near the mouth of the river, and in October imnicnso numbers of wild gee.^^^e aiiul ducks are shot in the adjacent lagoons. Trafadio is a Hcttlement which contains l,'i( French Acadian.s, and is situated near a broad lagoon which lies inside a line of .sand-bar.^. S-ilnion, cod, and herring arc found in tlie atljaccnt waters, and most of the jieojile are engaged in the fish- eries. Tho Trncadie Lazaretto is devoted to the reception of persons afllicfed with the lepro.oy, which prevails to sonic extent in this district, but has diminished since tho government secluded the lepers in this remote liosjiital There is an old tradi- tion that tho Icpro.sy wa."! introduced into this region during the last century, when a French vessel was wrecked on tho roast, some of whose s.iilors were from Mar- Fcillos and had contracted the true elepliaiitiasis t^itecoruvi (Eastern leprosy) in tho Levant. Its perpetuation and hereditary tmnsmission is attributctl to the closeness of tho relation in which intermarriage is sanctioned among tho Acudians (sometimes by dispensjitions from the Church) PockmouLhe is a settlement of 800 Acadian farmers, and here tho mnil-routo forks, — one road running G M. N. E. to Sliippigau (see page 04), the other run- ning i) M. N. to liower Caraquette (see ]iage iWy). Daily stages run from Chatham to Shediac (sec page fj9), also twice weekly to Fredericton and to Rathurst. There are two steamers weekly to Shediac, and one to Quebec. The river-steam«?r New Era runs up the river four times daily to New- castle (G M.), touching at Douglastown, a dingy village on the N. bank, wliere much lumber is loaded on tlio ships which take it hence to Europe. This village coutuius about 400 inhabitants, and has a marine hospitai, built of stone. Newcastle ( Waverley Hotel) is the capital of Northumberland County, nnd is situated at the head of deop-water navigation on tlie Miramichi River. It has about 1,500 inhabitants, and is engaged in shipbuilding and the exportation of fish and luinbcr, oysters, and preserved lobsters. One of the chief stations of the Intercolonial Railway will be located here, nnd a branch line is to be built to Chatham. A short distance above Newcastle, and beyond the Irish village of Nel- son, is tlie confluence of the great rivers known as the N. W. Miramichi nnd the S. W. Miramichi. These streams are crossed liy the largest and most costly bridges on the line of the Intercolonial Railway. The name Miramichi signifies "Happy Retreat," and signifies the love that the In- dians entertained for these fine hunting and fishing grounds. The upper ■waters of the rivers traverse wide districts of unsettled country, and are visited by hardy and adventurous sportsmen, who capture large numbers of trout and salmon. This system of waters is connected by portages with the Nepisiguit, tho R^. tigouche, the Upsalquitch, the Tobique, and the Nashwaak Rivers. The best salmon-pools are on the S. W. Miramichi, beyond Boiestown, at the mouths of the Salmon, Rocky, Clearwater, and Burnt Hill Brooks. A tri-weekly stage runs from Newcastle to Boies- town and Fredericton (sec page 4G), traversing 105 M. of a rude and sparsely settled country. J >a» j«i 1 BIIIPPIGAN ISLAND. Route 15. 03 rovlnco, and •lijrioiiM rites Kiupiisrd l)y k iiciiJ-uiitry. Ill one Rhdit L'k to Ithuca ivcr, nntl is a rii^'c'il in tiio ivcr, and in cut liiKODiis. id is situuti d and iiorriiif; I ill tlie fisii> iHIictcd with iiislu'd siiico an old tradi- ntury, when e from Mar- prosy) in tho tlio closeness 8 (sometimes c mnil-routo e other run- cc weekly to r", and one to laily to New- wliere much lage cuutuiuf* nd County, Miramichi upbuilding ;d lobsters, cated here, fipje of Xcl- Miramiclii largest and The name hat the In- Thc upper "v, and are ;e numbers rtages with e, and the Miramichi, water, and to Boies- rude and 1 Benubair^s hlmvl is o(T upper XclHon, and was formerly occupied by a prosporous French town, but few relics of which are now to be seen. It was destroyey a ]tritish naval attack in 17")'.). A colony was planted liere in 1722, under Cardinal Fleury's administration, and was provided with 200 houses, a cliurcli, and a l(J gun battery. In 1(342-44 tho Miramichi district was occupied by .Tean Jaquea Knaud, a Dascjuo gentlenian, who founded tradinpc-posts on the islands and entered also ujion tho walrus iisheries. but a contention soon arose lietween Knaud's men and tho In- dians, by rea.son of which the Hasciiie establishments were ilestroycd, and their peo- /•le were forced to floo to Nepislguit. In lt)72, after the Treaty of Urod;!, several families from St. Alalo landed on this coast and founded a villajfe at l{;i> du Vin. From 1740 to 1757 a Jlourishinj; trade was carried on between the Miramichi country and France, great quantities of furs being exported. Hut the crops failed in 175(, and tho relief-ships from Franco were captured by the British. In the winter of 1758 the transport ///n^/iV?i/ie, of Morlaix, was wrecked in the bay, and the dis- fieartened tolniiists, fimished and iH-stilence-stricken, were rai)idly dejiletcd by death. Many of tho French settlers died during the winter, and were buried on lieaubair's Point. Those who survived lied from the scene of such bitter sulTerIng, and by tho arrival of spring there wero not threescore inhabitants about the bay. In 1759 a Hritish war-vessel entered tho bay for wood and water, and the first boat's-crew which landed was cut olfand exterminated by tho Indians. The frigate bombarded tho French Fort batteries, and annihilated the town at Canadian Cove. Then sailing to the N. K., the commander landed a force at Neguac, and burnt tho Catholic chapel, the inhabitants having fled to tho woods. Neguac is known to this day only by the nnnio of IJiirnt (Church. After this fierce foray all tho N. coast of New Brunswick was deserteil and relapsed into a wilderness state. In 1775 there was an insignificant Scotch trading-post on the S. W. Miramichi, where 1,5*00-1,800 tierces of .salmon were caught annually. This was once surprised and plundered by tho Indians in sympathy with tho Americans, but in 1777 tho river was visited by the slooi)-of-war Viper and the captured American j)riviitver La/ai/ette. The Amerii-an flag was disi)layed on the latter vessel, and it was given out tiiat her crew were Bostoiiians, by which means 35 Indians <"rom the great coun- cil at Hartibog were dc<'oyeil on board and carried captive to Queljcc. In 1780 the Scottish settlers opened large saw-mills on the N. W. Miramichi, and Boveral families of American Loyalists settled along the shore. Vast nunibc^rs of masts and spars wero sent hence to the British dock-yards, and the growth of tho Miramichi was rapid and satisfactory. In l~Wi the Indians of tho hills gathered secretly and concerted plans to exterminate the settlers (who had mcistly t^iken refuge in Chatham), but tho danger was averted by the interposition of the Frcncli Catholic priests, who caused the Indians to dispense. In October, 1825, this district was desolated by tho groat Miramichi Fire, vrhich swept over 3,000,000 acres of forest, and destroyed ,S 1.00(),()00 worth of proiK>rtj and 160 human lives. The town of Newcastle was laid in tushes, and all the lower Mi- ramichi Valley became a blackened wilderness. The only escape for life was by rushing into the rivers while the storm of fire passed overhead ; and here, nearly covered by tho hi.ssing wat(^rs, wero men and women, the wild animals of the woods, and the domestic beasts of tho farm. On leaving the Miramichi Kivcr and Bay tlie vessel .steams out into tho Guir, leaving on the N. \V. the low shores of Tabusintac and Tnicadie, in- dented by wide and shallow lagoons (sec page 62). After running about 35 M. the low red clin's of Shippigan Island are seen on the W. This island is 12 M. long by 8 M. wide, and is inhabited by Acadian fi.shcrmen. On the S. W. shore is the hamlet of Alexander Point, on Alcmek Bay, opposite the populous village and magnificent harbor of Shippigan. Thero are valuabro fisheries of herring, cod, and mackerel off tiiesc shores, and the deep triple harbor is well sheltered by the islands of Shippigan and Pocksuedie, forming a secure haven of refuge for tho American and Cana- dian fleets. G4 JioHte 15. BAY OF CIIALEUR. SliippiKnn Harbor, thoiiKl> Ptill piirroundocl by forests, hns opcupied a prom- inent iiliK i> in th<' ralctiliitions of conuniTcc luid travel. It has been proposfil that the Intercolonial Hi.ilwiiy hIiiiH eotineet here with n. tmnHiitluntie steamship line, thus ^vitllll^l^vill^;a lar;.re portion of the summer travel from Halifax and New York. Tlic distance from Sliippican to Ijivcrpool by the Straits of Helleislc is 148 M. less than the distance from llulifux to Liverpool, and Shlppigau ia 271 M. nearer Montreal thun is Halifax. The OcJMiii Ferry. — The following plan is infteniously elaborated and pow- erfully sujJporU'd, and is perhaps destined to reduee the transatlantic pojisap' to lot) hours. It is to be carried out with stron^', swift express steamers on the Ocean iind the (Julf, and throiiph trains on the railways. The itinerary is as follows : London to Valentia, C40 M., 10 hours ; Valentin to St. John's, N. F., 1,640 M., 1<)0 hours ; St. .lohn's to St. (Jeor^e's Hay (across Newfoundland by railway), 260 M., 84 hours; St. (ieorne's Hay to Ship])i(:an (across the OulO, 260 M., 15.i hours; Sliippipiu to New York, ItoiJ M., 31 hours ; London to New York, 171 hours, or 7j days. It is claimed that this route would esca|Kj the dangers betwc>en Cape Race and New York : would (xivo usually quiet i>as.sapcs across the Gulf; would diversify the monotony of the long voyage by thn'c transfers, and would save 4-G days on the re< orded avcraffes of the steamships between New York and Liverpool (si'c maps and details in Sundford Fleming's " Intercolonial Railway Survey''). Tlie steamer now crosses the ^liscou Banks, nnd approaches Miscou Island, wliicli is 20 M. in circumference and contains about 300 inhab- itants. On its S. sliorc is a fine and spacious harbor, wliich is much used as a place of refuge in stormy weather by the American fishing-fleets. Settlements were formed here early in the 17th century by the French, for the purpose of hunting the walrus, or sea-cow. Such an exterminating war was waged upon this valuable aquatic animal that it soon became extinct in the Gulf, and was followed into the Arctic Zone. Witliin five years a few walruses have been seen in the Gulf, and it is hoped that they may once more enter these waters in droves. At an early date the .lesuits established the mission of St. Charles do Miscou, but the priests were soon killed by the climate, and no impression had been made on the Indians. It is claimed that 'lere may still be seen the ruins of the post of the Royal Comjiany of Mi.^con, which was founded in 1(535 for the pursuit offish and walruses, and for a time derived a great revenue from this district. Fortifications were also erected here by M. Denys, Sieur do Fronsac. The steamer alters her course gradually to the W. and passes the fixed red light on Birch Point, and Point Miscou, with its high green knoll. Between Point Miscou and Cape Despair, 26 M. N., is the en- trance to tlio Bay of Chaleur. I I'; The Bay of Chaleur was known to the Indians by the name of EcTcetuam, Netnnache, signifying "a Sea of Fish," and that name is still applicable, since the bay contains every variety of fish known on these coasts. It is 90 M. long and from 10 to 26 M. wide, and is nearly free from shoals or dangerous i-eefs. The waters are comp.ratively tranquil, and the air is clear and bracing and usually free from fog, affording a marked contrast to the climate of the adjacent Gulf coasts. The tides are regular and have but little velocity. The length of the bay, from Point Miscou to Camp- bellton, is about 110 M. These waters are visited every year by great American fleets, manned by the hardy seamen of Cape Cod and Glouces- ter, and valuable cargoes of fish are usually carried back to the Massa- chusetts ports. BATIIUUST. Jloitte 15. 65 ed a prom- jposfil tlmt usliii) lino, Now York. 148 »1. loss T Montreal !(! and pow- pn>!sa}ri' to n the Ocfun ns followH : ,640 M., 100 ly), 250 M., 154 hourd ; lours, or 7} II Cape Race lUl diversify -0 days on ol (8«.'c maps cs Hiscou 300 inhab- much used ^ fleets. ;nch, for tho ar was waged Julf, and was been seen in n dri>ves. At scou, but the made on the t of tlic Royal and walruses, ions were also passes the high green ., is the en- of Ecketuan. 1 applicable, joasts. It is :om shoals or nd the air is rked contrast ilar and have cou to Camp- ear by great and Giouces- :o the Massa- Tliis bay wni» diacoyercd by Jaques Cartler in tho snnimcr of VuVt, and, from the fact tiiiit Hie heated season was at its hci^Mit at that time, he nainrd it hi Rtif des Ckalfurs (tho Hay of Heats). On the cariii'st niaii-" it is also eallcd l.a Hair de» ns/iriaiiols, iiiiiicatiu;? that it was freijiiented by ."Spanish vcsn 1-, probably fr. the imiposes of lishinK- in these waters is located tho seonc of the old loffond of tho Mas.s/iehusotts coast, relirtive to Skipper Irt ^ous misdeed, which, with tho record of Its punishmuat, haa lieen counnenioruted in the poetry of W'hlttler: — ' Small pity for him I — lie ioiled away Kroin 11 lenkinn ship in ChaliMir Huy, — Sailed awiiy from a oiiikhia wrci'k, With Ills own town's-pcople on her deck I ' l^ny by ! Iiiy by : ' they ettlU'd to him ; UncK be answered, ' Sink or swim ! iir catch of liiiii iiRaiii ! ' ' nailed through the ina and rain. liras of your catcit of liiiii ngixin ! ' And citt'lie nailed through the loc i Old i'Moyd Iresoii, for his hanl lieurt Tarred imd feathered and eiiriicd in a cart liy tho women ut' Marblcheud. " FathoniB deep in dark Chalcur That wreck gliuU lie lorevennore. Mother and Binter, wile and maid, I-Dokcd from the rock* of .Marl)lelipad (tver the moaning ""d rainy nea,— Looked for tho eoining that ndplit not be I What did till' wind)) and the uea-birdM fiiiy Of the cruel captain who nailed away 'f — Old Floyd Ireson, for his bard heart, Tarred and fe:itbered and carrii'd in u cart By tliR women of Marbluhcud." When well within tho bay the ste.amcr assnmca a course nearly S. \V., leaving MIscou and SI ippigan Islniids astern. The l)road Cctraquette Bay is on tho S., anu the Now-l'.iindon shores (see page CO) aro followed into Nej)isigult Hay. Tlie liarbor of Hatliurst is entered by a strait two cable!} wide, between Alston Toint and Carron Toint, on the former of which there are red and white beaoon-liglits. Bathurst ( Z?rf J/ Vkw Hotel) is the capital of Gloucester County, and has about 600 inhabitants. It is favorably situated on a peninsula in the har- bor, 2i M. from tlie bay, and is connected by a bridge with tho village of St. Peter'-s. Large quantities of fish aro sent hence to the American cities during the summer; and tlie exportation of frozen salmon has become an important business. Tlie Intercolonial Railway has a station near Bathurst, ■which will probably bo one of its chief ports on tliis bay. The beautiful liasin of Uatliurst receives the waters of four rivers, and its shores are already well populated by farmers. The Basin of Bathurst was called by tho Indians Whiknpimuwlck, or Nepisiguit, signifying tho " Foaming Waters." It was occulted in ltj38 by M. Enaud, a wealthy Basfiue gentleman, and his retainers, forming a tov n ciilled St. Pierre. £naud mar^ rled a Mohawk i)rinces8, founded mills, and established an extensive fur-trade, erect- ing a commodious man.sion at Abshaboo (Coal I*oint),at the month of the Xepl.siguit. But some fmiily troubles cnsuwd, and Madame Enaud's brother slew her husband, after which tho French settlements wore plundered by the Indians, and such of the inhahitiints as could not escape by way of the sea were massacred. By 1670 tho Chaleur shores were again studded with French hamlets, and occu- pied by an industrious farming population. In 1092 tho Micmacs confederated against them, and, undor tho command of the sagamore ilalion, completely devas- tjited the wliole district and compelled the settlers to Hy to Canada. Thenceforward for 74 years this country was unvisited by Europeans. In 1764 a Seotch trading- post and fort was erected at Alston Point, on the N. shore of Bathurst harbor, and thence were exported great quantities of furs, moose-skins, walrus hides and tusks, and salmon. In 1776 this flourishing settlement was destroyed by American priva- teers, which al.so deva.stated the other shpres of Chaleur. The present town was founded in 1818 by Sir Uowt^i'd Qouglas, and w^ uauicd ia honor of the Earl of Bathurst. The Nepisigult Biver empties into Bathurst harbor, and is famous for its fine fishing (it is now leased). A road ascends the W. bank for about ^ A^.. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) ^/ A^ 1.0 1.1 Uit2A |25 m ^ LS. 12.0 u ■ 22 |iJ5 1 1.4 1 1.6 6" 7] ^^ .•V* V ^ o^. Hiotographic Sciences Corporation 23 Wf T MAIN STRir WIBSTH,N.Y. 14SM (716) •72-4903 ■^ ^ i 1;. , i ' 1' i ! ■ J tn Riviere SUSSEX VALE. Jioiite 16. 7 1 isthmus at nd rounding tea some in- 30 views are and pleasant h the pleas- je is checked t. John at 7 John at 8.30 itroduced on u, 6 ; River- ; Passekeag, nweseep, 47 ; alisbury, 76; 97 (Dorchcs- )1 ; Memram- 38 ; Nappan, River Philip, 191 ; London- ; Brookfield, :2 ; Eimsdale, motion, 264 ; ; to Moncton, :las8, $ 2 ; to 6, — 2d class, 2; toPictou, class, $ 2.52 ; ,$5.31,— 2d . per mile for fixed by the national rail- lage 19), the everal miles line crosses ;ount of the Bay is soon othesay (see Quispam- sis station is 3 M. S. of Gondola Point, whence a ferry crosses the Ken- nebecasis to the pretty hamlet of Clifton. The narrowing valley is now followed to the N. E., with occasional glimpses of the river on the 1. Hampton (two hotels) is the shire-town of Kings County, whose new pub- lic buildings are seen to the r. of the track. It is a thriving village of re- cent origin, and is visited in summer by the people of St. John, on account of the hill-scenery in the vicinity. St. Martin's, or Quacoj is about 20 M. S. E., on the Bay of Fundy, and is to be connected with Hampton by a new railway. (It is now visited by tri-weekly stage from St. John in 32 M., fare $ 1.50 ; a rugged road.) This is one of the chief ship- building towns in the province, and has over 1,000 inhabitants, with several churches and other public buildings. It was originally settled by the King's Orange Rangers, and has recently become a favorite point for summer excursions from St. John. The hotel accommodation is inferior. S. of the village is the tall lighthouse on Quaco Head, sustaining a revolving white light. Tho name Quaco is a contraction of the Indian words Gtdwahgahgee, meaning " the Home of the Sea-cow." The shores about Quaco are bold and picturesque, fronting the Bay with lofty iron-bound cliffs, among which are small strips of stony beaches. The strata are highly inclined and in some cases are strangely contorted, while their shelves and crevices are adorned witli pine-trees. Quaco Head is 2 M. from St. Martin's, and is 350 ft. high, surrounded by cliffs of red sandstone 250 ft. in height. This b'»ld promontory rises directly from the sea, and is crowned by forests. The harbor of Quaco is rather pretty, whence it has been likened to the Bay of Naples. Tracy^s Lake is about 5 M. from Quaco, on the Loch Lomond road, and is noted for an abundance of trout. 10-12 M. N. of the village is the Mount Theobald Lake, a small round forest-pool in which trout are found in great numbers. Hampton station is 1 M. from the village of Hampton Ferry, and beyond Bloomfield the train reaches Norton, whence a road runs 7 M. N. W. to Springfield, at the head of Belleisle Bay. Apohaqui( AT^ohaqui Hotel) is a village of 300 inhabitants, on the upper Kennebecasis, and at the mouth of the Mill-stream Valley. The train now reaches Sussex {Exchange Hotel), a pleasant little vil- lage of 400 inhabitants, whence the famous farm-lands of the Sttssex Vale stretch off to the S. E. along the course of Trout Brook. There are sev- eral hamlets (with inns) amid the pleasant rural scenery of the Vale, and good trout-fishing is found on the smaller streams. 8 M. up is the pros- perous settlement of Seeley's Mills, with 650 inhabitants. The Sussex Vale was settled by the military corps of the New Jersey Loyalists (most of whom were Germans), soon after the Revolutionary War, and it is nov^ occupied, for the most part, by their descendants. "Good roads, ^7eIl-executed bridges, cleared land, excellent crops, comfortable houses, high-bred cattle and horses, good conveyances public and private, commodious churches, well-taught schools, well-provided inns, and an iutelligent, industrious people, all in tho midst of scenery lofty, soft, rounded, beautifully varied with hill and valley, mountain and meadow, forest and flood, have taken the place of the pathless wilderness, the endless trees, the untaught Indian, and the savege moose." (Pro*?. Johnston.) Beyond Plumweseep occasional glimpses of the long low ridge of Picca- dilly Mt. are obtained on ihe r,, and Mt. Pisgah is just N. of Penobsquis station (small inn), which is the seat of the New Brunswick Paper Manu- facturing Co. and of several oalt-works. Tri-weekly stages run hence 32 M. S. E. to the maritime village of Salmon River, on Chignecto Bay, 4 M. N. W. of the obscure shipping-port of Point Wolfe (Stv,veus's Hotel). ill it I I. t !l <■: I l& :i i ' 1 ■ ■ 1 ,; 1 . t L. 72 /Zow/c io'. MONCTON. Petitoodiac {Mansard House, - Central Hotel) is 15 M. beyond Pcnob- squis, and is a busy village of 400 inliabitant?, many of wliom are con- nected with the lumber-trade. 5 M. S. K. is th'' Pollett River village, near which there is good trouting. In this vicinity are the Pollett Falls, where the river, afier flowing through a narrow defile between lofty and rugged hills, falls over a line of sandstone ledges, and then whirls away down a dark gorge below. The cavenis, crags, and eroded fronts of the sand- stone cliffs form picturesque bits of scenery.. 15-18 M. N. of Petitcodiac are the famous fishing-grounds of the Canaan River. The railway now descends the valley of the Petitcodiac River, which was settled after the Revolutionary War by Germans from Pennsylvania who remained loyal to Great Britain. Salisbury (two inns) is a pleasant village of 300 inhabitants. Stages run from Salisbury, or Moncton, to Hillgborougli (two hotels), a busy Tillage of 900 inhabitants, wlience are shipped the abundant products of the mines of Albert County. The Albert Coal-mines are connected with Hillsborough by a railway 5^ M. long, and produce large quantities of valuable bituminous coal, much of which is sent by sea to Portland and Boston. 2^ M. from the village are exten- sive plaster-quarries, whose products are shipped to the American ports. S. E. of Hillsborough, dowu the Petitcodiac River, are the villages of the parish of Hopewell, of which Hopewell Cape is the capital of the county. W. of Hopewell Corner is Harvey Corner, whence a pleasant road leads to Kocher. To the S. are the Shepody Lakes and lliver, beyond which (and 8 M. from Harvey Corner) is Little llocher, near Cape Enrage on Chignecto Bay (with a fixed light, visible for 15 M.). Off these bold shores are the Albert Quarries and the rocky cliffs of Grindstone Island. The mines and villages of Albert County are being joined witli the Intercolonial Rail- way system by a line called the Albert Railivay, which intersects the former road and runs down through the lower parishes, meeting with fine scenery in-its passage between Shepody Mt. (1,050 ft. high) and the Bay. Beyond Salisbury station the Halifax train runs 13 M. N. E. to Moncton (King''s Hotel), the headquarters of the Intercolonial Railway and the site of its extensive machine-shops. It is well laid out, and has 4 churches, a weekly paper, and some n-anufacturing works. Its situation at the head of navigation on the Petitcodiac gives certain commercial advantages, and affords opportunity for the visitor to see the great " Bore," or tide-wave of the Bay of Fundy. At the beginning of the flood-tide a wall of water 4 - 6 ft. high sweeps up the river, and within 6 hours the stream rises over 70 ft. On account of the sharp curve in the river at this point, Moncton was known only as "the Bend" for over a century, when it was named in honor of an early English officer of the Acadian wars. This bend also gave rise to the name of the river, which was hence called by the French Petit Coude ("Little Elbow"). The new division of the Intercolonial Railway runs N. from Moncton, and is designed to meet the Canadian railway system at Riviere du Loup. It passe^j through or near the chief towns of the North Shore, and follows the Bay of Clml- eur for many miles. A considerable portion of the line will probably be open to travel in the summer of 1875, but the officers of the road cannot yet give precise information. The towns on this line are described in Route 15. The Halifax train runs out to the N. E. from Moncton, and after passing Painsec Junction (sec page 59) deflects to the S. E. into the Memramcook SACKVILLE. lioiite 16. nd Pcnob- n are con- Uage, near 'alUj where ind rugged ray down a ' the sand- nds of the Petitcodiac rmans from I (two Inus) otels), a busy of the mines 3orough by a 18 coal, much ige are exten- )rt8. S. E. of of Hopewell, veil Corner \a the Shepody Liittle llocher, A.). Off these Island. The •colonial Rail- 16 former road in -its passage to Uoncton and the site i churches, a 1 at the head 'antages, and Dt tide-wave tvall of water am rises over )int, Moncton it was named liis bend also ly the Frencli [oncton, and is up. It passe':. ;he Bay of Chal- ibly be open to yet give precise I after passing Memramcook Valley. It soon reache<» the connected villages of 3femramcook and St. Joseph (three inns), occupying the centre of a prosperous farming district which is inhabited by over 1,000 Acadians, — a ;nous and simple-hearted Catholic peasantry, — a large portion of whom belong to the prolific fami- lies of Leblanc. Cormier, Gaudct, and Bouquc. On the opposite shore is the College of St. Joseph do Memramcook, where about 100 students (mostly from Canada and the United States) are conducted through a high-school curriculum ly 12 friars and ecclesiastics. Near the college is the handsome stone building of the Church of St. Joseph de Memram- cook. The scenery is of a bold character as the train descends the r. bank of the Memramcook River, and crosses to Dorchester ( Dorchester Hotel), a prosperous village of 800 inhabitants, situated near the mouth of the river and among the finest wheat-lands in New Brunswick. In this vicinity (and at Rockland, 4 M. W.) are large quarries of olive-colored sandstone, most of which is sent to Boston and New York. Dorchester has 3 churches, the public buildings of Westmoreland County, and numerous pleasant residences. Shipbuilding is carried on to some extent. A ferry crosses Shopody Bay to Hopewell Cape (see page 72) ; and 6-8 M. W. of Dorchestev is Belliveau village, nine tenths of whose inhabitants belong to the fami- lies of Belliveau, Gautreault, and Melan^on. This settlement was named in honor of the venerable M. Belliveau, whose long life extended from 1730 to 1840. In 1776 many cf tho Acadians of this vicinity joined the New England forces under Col. Eddy, who occupied Sackville and attacked Fort Cumberland (see page 78). The train now runs E. 12 ^I. from Dorchester to Sackville {Brmsidck House), a rising and prosperous village of about 1,500 inhabitants, situated on a red sandstone slope at the mouth of the T&ntramar i River, near the head of the Bay of Fundy. It has ship-yards, a stove foundry, a news- paper, and 8 churches. Sackville is the seat of the Mount Allison Wes- leyan College, an institution which was founded by Mr. C. F. Allison, and is conducted by the Wesleyan Conference of Eastern British America. It includes a small college, a theological hall, and academies for boys and girls. A road leads from Sackville S. E. down the rugged headland be- tween Cumberland Basin and Shepody Bay, passing the marine hamlets of Woodpoint (5 M.), Rockport (12 M.), and N. Joggins, 14 M. from Sack- ville, and near the highlands of Cape Marangouin. Sackville is the point established for the outlet of the projected Bale VeTte Canal) a useful work 18 M. long, which would allow vessels to pass from the Bay of Fundy to the Gulf of St. Lawrence without having to round the iron-bound pe- ninsula of Nova Scotia. This canal has been planned and desired for over a cen- tury, but nothing has yet been done, except the surveying of the isthmus. Tri- weekly stages run N. E. along the telegraph-rosid from Sackville to Jolicoeur (lOM.), Baie Verte Road (14 M.), Bale Verte (18 M., small inn), and Port Elgin (20 M. : iua). About 16 M. N. E. of Port Elgin is Cape Tormentine, " the great 1) luland which forms the E. extremity of New Brunswick within the Gulf Indian Point may be said to form the southern, and Cape Jourimain the northern points of this \ieadland, which is a place of importance in a nautical point of view, not only from 1 Tantramar, from the French word Tintamarre, meaning " a thundering noise." 4 ll 74 Route IG. TANTRAMAR MARSH. t • L' i <( . it8 position, but from its dangerous and cxtonsivo shoals. " The submarine tolo- graph to I'rinpo Kdward Inland crosccH from Capo .Tc.iirininin ; and it is from this point that the winter mail-service is conducted, wlien the mails, passengers, and baggage are subjected to an exciting and perilous transit in ice-boats to Capo Trav- erse. Bale Verte is 9 M. wide and 11 M. deep, but affords no good shelter. It re- ceives the Tignish and (laspercau Ilivcrs, and at the mouth of the latter arc tho ancient ruins of Fort Monctou. At Sackvlllo 'ne Halifax train crosses tho Tantramar River, and runs out over tho wido Tantramar Marsh to Aulac, or Cole's Island (stage to Capo Tormentine), near which it crosses tho Aulac River. Trains are 8ometime& blocked in on these plains during the snow-storms of winter, and tho passengers are subjected to great hardships. The MissiguasU River is next crossed, with the ruins of Fort Beausejour (Cumberland) on the N., and of Fort Beaubassin (Lawrence) on the S. These forts are best visited from Amherst, which is 4-6 M. disiant, and is reached after trav- ersing the Missiguash Marsh. The Missiguash River is tho boundary between New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, and Amherst is the first to^vn reached in tho latter Province. Amherst to Halifax, see Route 17. i t' i'i K li marine tclo- iH from thU "cngers, and n Capo Trav- I'ltcr. It rc- ittcr aro tho r, and runs lid (stage to Trains aro of winter, Missiguasli iberland) on orts aro best d after trav- 10 boundary 16 first town KOVA SCOTIA. The Province of Nova Scotia is peninsular in location, and is connected with the mainland by an isthmus 8 M. wide. It is bounded on the N. by the Bay of Fundy, tho Strait of Northumberland, and the Gulf of St. Law- rence ; on the E. and S. by tho Atlantic Ocean ; and on the W. by tho ocean, the Bay of Fundy, and the Province of New Brunswick. Its length, from Cape Canso to Capo St. Mary, is 383 M., and its breadth varies from 50 M. to 104 M. Tlio area of tho peninsular portion of the Province is about 16,000 square miles. (The island of Cape Breton is connected with this Province, politically, but its description is reserved for another sec- tion of this boolc.) " Acadie is much warmer in summer and much colder in winter than tho countries in Europe lying under tho same parallels of latitude" (Southern France, Sardinia, Lombardy, Genoa, Venice, Northern Tur- key, the Crimea, and Circassia). "The spring season is colder and the autumn more agreeable than those on the opposite side of the Atlantic. Its climate is favorable to agriculture, its soil generally fertile. The land is well watered by rivers, brooks, and lakes. The supply of timber for use and for exportation may bo considered as inexhaustible. The fish- eries on the coasts are abundant. Tho harbors aro numerous and excel- lent. Wild animals aie abundant, among which are remarkable the moose, caribou, and red deer. Wild fowl also are plenty. Extensive tracts of alluvial land of great value are found on the Bay of Fundy. These lands have a natural richness that dispenses with all manuring; all that is wanted to keep them in order is spade-work. As to cereals, — wheat, rye, oats, buckwheat, maize, all prosper. The potato, the hop, flax, and hemp aro everywhere prolific. The vegetables of the kitchen garden are successfully raised. Of fruit there are many wild kinds, and tho apple, pear, plum, and cherry seem almost indigenous. Tho vine thrives ; good grapes aro often raised in the open air. It was said by a French writer that Acadie produced readily everything that grew in Old France, except the olive. " In the peninsula, or Acadie propoi', there is an abundance of mineral wealth. Coal is found in Cumberland and Pictou ; iron ore, in Colchester and Annapolis Counties ; gypsum, in Hants ; marble and limestone, in dif- ferent localities; freestone, for building, at Remsheg (Port Wallace) and ^ 76 NOVA SCOTIA. i!:' • Pictou; granite, near Halifax, Shelburnc, etc.; brick clay, in the counties of Halifax and Annapolis. The amethysts of Parrsborough and its vicin- ity have been long celebrated, and pearls have been found lately In the Annapolis River. The discovery of gold along the whole Atlantic shore of the peninsula of Nova Scotia has taken place since 1860, and it now gives steady remunerative employment to about 800 or 1,000 laborers, with every expectation of its expansion." (Beamish Murdoch.) The pro- du tion of gold from the Nova-Scotia mines now amounts to about $ 400,000 a year. In 1873 the Nova-Scotians caught $6,577,086 worth of fish, of whioli $2,531,159 worth were of codfish, $1,411,676 of mackerel, $717,861 of herring, and $ 805,574 of lobsters. The territory now occupied by the Maritime Provinces was known for nearly two centuries by the name of Acadie,'^ and was the scene of fre- quent wars between Britain and France. Its first discoverers were the Northmen, about the year 1000 A. d., and Sebastian Cabot rediscovered it in 1498. In 1518 and 1598 futile attempts were made by French nobles to found colonies here, and French fishermen, fur-traders, and explorers frequented these shores for over a century. In 1605 a settlement was founded at Port Royal, after the discoveries of De Monts and Champlain, but it was broken up in 1618 by the Virginians, who claimed that Acadio belonged to Britain by virtue of Cabot's discovery. In 1621 James I. of England granted to Sir William Alexander the domain called Nova Scotia, including all the lands E. of a line drawn from Passamoq noddy Bay N. to the St. Lawrence; but this claim was renounced in 1632, and the rival French nobles, La Tour and D'Aulnay, commenced their fratri- cidal wars, each striving to be sole lord of Acadie. In 1664 the Province was captured by a force sent out by Cromwell, but the French interest soon regained its former position. The order of the Baronets of Nova Scotia was founded by King Charles I., in 1625, and consisted of 150 well-born gentlemen of Scotland, who re- ceived, with their titles and insignia, grants of 18 square miles each, in the wide domains of Acadia. These manors were to be settled by the baronets at their own expense, and were expected in time to yield handsome revenues. But little was ever accomplished by this order. Meantime Cardinal Richelieu founded and became grand master of a more powerful French association called the Company of New France (1627). It con- 1 Acadia is the Anglicized (or Latinized) form of Acadie, nn Indian word signifying " tlie place," or " the region." It is a part of the compound words Seg^etxin-acaaie {S\\\i- bcnacadie), meaning " place of wild potatoes"; TuUuk-cadin (Tracadie), meaning " dwelling- place"; Sun-acadie, or "place of cranberries"; Kitpoo-acadie, or "place of eagles," and fo ~ I I mac guide, he inquired how the name originated ; the Indian answered, " Because plenty wild potatoes — scp^eben — once grew here. " Well, ' acadie,' Paul, what does that meau i " Means — where you find "em," rejoined the Micmac. NOVA SCOTIA. 77 3 counties . its vicin- ely in tlio ic shore of now gives rers, ■with The pro- b$ 400,000 , of wliicU 717,861 of known for !enc of frc- s Avero the idiscovercd ncli nobles I explorers lemcnt was Champlain, that Acadic 1 James I. illed Nova amoquoddy n 1632, and their fratri- le Province ich interest ing Charles ind, who re- each, in the the baronets I handsome Meantime )re powerful 7). It con- rord BiRnify'ng •.H-acadic (fehu- ing *' dwelling- of eagles," and oddv," whence todi-quocldt/, or die with a Mic- Beoause plenty es that meou r I Plstcd of 100 members, who received Acadia, Quebec, Florida, and New- foundland " in simple liomagc," and had power to erect ducbios, marquis- ntes, and seigniories, subject to the royal approval. They allowed Frcncli Catholics only to settle on those lands, and were protected by national frigates. This order continued for 40 years, and was instrumental in founding numerous villages along tiie Nova-Scotian coast. In 1690 the Now-Knglanders overran the Trovince and seized the for- tresses, but it was restored to Franco in 1697. In 1703 and 1707 unsuc- cessful expeditions were sent from Massachusetts against the Acadian strongliolds, but they were finally captured in 1710; and in 1713 Nova Scotia was ceded to Great Britain by the Treaty of Utrecht. Tho Prov- ince was kept in a condition of disorder for the next 40 years, by tho dis- afFection of its French population and the lawlessness of tho Indians, and tho British fortresses were often menaced and attacked. After the founda- tion of Halifax, in 1?49, a slow tide of immigration set in and strengthened tho government. In 1755 the French people in the Province (7,000 in num- ber) were suddenly seized and transported to tho remote American colo- nies, and the French forts on tho Baie-Vcrte frontier were captured. In 1758 tlic first House of Assembly met at Halifax, and in 1763 tho French power in America was fii. Ily and totally crushed. At tho close of the Revolution, 20,000 self-exiieu Americans settled in Nova Scotia; and in 1784 New Brunswick and Cape Breton were withdrawn and made into separate pi'ovinces (Cape Breton was reunited to Nova Scotia in 1820). During the Revolution and the War of 1812 Halifax was the chief station of the British navy, and the shores of the Province were continually harassed by American privateers. In 1864 a convention was held at Charlottetown, P. E. I., to consider measures for forming a federal union of the Maritime Provinces. During the session Canadian delegates were admitted, on the request of the St. Lawrence Provinces ; and a subsequent congress of all the Provinces was held at Quebec, at which the plan of the Dominion of Canada was elabo- rated. It is now thought that this quasi-national government does not fulfil nil the original wishes of the seaboard regions, and that it may be well to unite (or reunite) the Maritime Provinces into one powerful province called Acadia, by which the expense of three local legislatures and cabi- nets could be saved, their homogeneous commercial interests could be favored by uniform laws, and the populous and wealthy Provinces of Que- bec and Ontario could be balanced in the Dominion Parliancjnt. " There are perhaps no Provinces in the world possessing finer harbors, or furnishing in greater abundance all the conveniences of life. The climate is quite mild and very healthy, and no lands have been found that are not of surpassing fertility Finally, nowhere are there to be seen forests more beautiful or with wood better fitted for buildings and masts. There (!■ fKll li'' ft ml if 78 Route 17. AMHERST. are in some places copper mines, tind in others of coal The fish most commonly caught on the coast are the cod, salmon, mackerel, herring, sardine, shr^d, trout, gotte, gaparot, barbel, sturgeon, goberge, — all fish that can be salted and exported. Seals, walruses, and whales are found in great numbers The rivers, too, are full of fresh-water fish, and the banks teem with countless game." (Father Charlevoix, 1765.) "Herewith I enter the lists as the champion of Nova Scotia Were I to give a first-class certificate of its general character, I would aflirm that it yields a greater variety of products for export than any territory on the globe of the same superficial area. This is saying a great deal. Let us see : she has ice, lumber, ships, salt-fish, salmon and lobsters, coal, iron, gold, copper, plaster, slate, grindstones, fat cattle, wool, potatoes, apples, large game, and furs." (Charles Hallock, 1873.) '*;.;■ r I readth of 10-12 feet high, cov- ir-raaple. From 1 to Wallace and ray traverses the s between Folly sheds, to protect ills. Fine vieAVS f the line. From ron-mines, which ignetic, specular, long and 120 ft. c. 'oily River, which the farming set- he descent is con- given as the train iomes more pleas- I Truro {Somerset House; Prince of Wales Hotel; Victoria) is a wealthy and prosperous town of over 4,000 inhabitants, and occupies a pleasant situation 2 M. from the head of Cobequid Bay (an arm of the Basin of ^linas). The level site of the town is nearly surrounded by an amphi- theatre of gracefully rounded hills, and on the W. are the old diked meadows of the Acadian era. Truro is the capital of Colchester County and th'j seat of the Provincial Normal School. Fishing and shipbuilding are cirried on here, and there are large and growing manufactures, in- cluding boots and shoes, woollens, and iron-wares. The neighboring county has valuable fai'ming-lands, and contains several iron-niines. Truro was settled at an early date by the Acadian French, and after their expul- sion from Nova Scotia was occupied by Scotch-Irish from New Hampshire. In 1761 a large number of disbanded Irish troops settled here, and engaged in the peaceful pursuits of agriculture. A road runs \Y. from Truro between the Cobequid Mts. and the Basin of Minas, passing Masstown (10 M. ) ; Folly Village (14 M.), at the mouth of the Folly River; Great Village (18 M.), a place of 600 inhabitants ; Highland Village (21 M.) ; Port au Pique (23 M.) ; Bass River (27 M.) ; Upper Economy (28 M.) ; and Five Islands (45 M.). (See Route 22.) The stages run from Debert station. Stages also run S. W. to Old B.arns, on the S. shore of Cobequid Bay, and S. E. 15 M. to Middle Stewiacke, on the Stewiacke River. Truro is the point of departure for the Pictou Branch of the Intercolonial Rail- way (see Route 31). The North Shore of Nor z Scotia. Blair's express-st^es leave Truro on the arrival of the morning trains from Hali- fax, on Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, returning on the alternate days. Truro to Tatamagouche, 29 M. ; to Wallace, 42 ; to Pugwash, 52. Stages also run from Wentworth, Greenville, and Thomson to the N. Shore (according to the Intercolonial Railway circular for 1874), and a tri-weekly line runs, between Pictou and Amherst by way of the N. shore. In passing from Truro to Tatamagouche the road crosses the Cobequid Jits, and descends through a thinly settled region to the N. Tatamagouche (two inns) is situated at the head of a large harbor which opens on the Northumberland Strait, and has about 1,500 inhabitants. Some chip- building is done here, and there are fr-^estone quarries in the vicinity. G M. to the E. is the large village of Brule Harbor, and 6 M. farther E., also on the Tatamagouche Bay, and at the mouth of the River John, is tlie shipbuilding settlement of River John, which was founded by Swiss Protestants in 1733. It is 20 M. from this point to Pictou, and the inter- vening coast is occupied by colonists from the Hebrides. Blair's stage runs W. from Tatamagouche to Wallace (two inns), a town of 2,600 inhabitants, situated on the deep v/aters of Wallace Harbor (for- merly called Remsheg). Plaster, lime, and freestone are found here in large quantities, and the latter is being quarried by several companies. The Provincial Building at Halifax was made of Wallace stone. To the N.E., beyond the lighthouse on Mullin Point, \z the marine hamlet o^ Fox Earbor, whose original settlers came from the Hebrides. Pugwash (small inn) is 10 M. beyond Wallace, and is a flourishing port with about 3,300 4* P 82 Route 17. GOLD MINES. ,' I ! ! Ill 11' I H il Si .ill 1 'I rl !1 1 ,, ■ 1 inhabitants. Tlie harbor, though d'fficult of access, is deep and well shel- tered, and has several ship-yards on its shores. The chief exports of Pug- wash are deals and lumber, freestone, lime, and plaster. The Halifax train runs S. from Truro to Brookfield, whence hay and lumber are exported, and then to Stewiacke, which is 3 M. from the pretty farming village of the same name, on the Stewiacke River. The next sta- tion is Shubenacadie (International Hotel), a busy little manufacturing village on the river of the same name. Daily stages descend the valley of the Shubenacadie for 18 M. to the N. to the town of Maitland (t\fo inns), at the mouth of the river (see Route 22). Stages also run S. E. (Tuesday and Thursday) to Gay'& River (7 M.), Gay's River Road (14 M ), Middle Musquodoboit (21 M.), Upper Musquodoboit (25 M.), Melrose, Guysborough, and Port Mulgrave, on the Strait of Canso. Gold was discovered near Gay's River in 18G2, in the cenglomerate rock of the great ridge called the Boar's Back, which extends for 60 M. through the inland towns. It nearly resembles the alluvial de- posits found in the placer-diggings of California, and the stream-washings have yielded as high as an ounce per man daily. Scientific mining was begun '-^ 1803, but has given only light returns. Middle Musquodoboit is a farming-towr with about 1,(X)0 inhabitants, situated on the S. of the Boar's Back ridge, 42 M. ..om Halifax. Upper Musquodoboit is about the same size, and beyond that point the stages traverse a dreary and thinly settled district for several leagues, to Melrose. The Halifax train runs S. W. to Elmsdale, a village near the Shuben- acadie River, engaged in making leather and carriages. Enfield is the seat of a large pottery. 7 M. N. W. are the Renfrew Gold-Mints^ where gold-bearing quartz was discovered in 1861. Much money and labor were at first wasted by inexperienced miners, but of late years the lodes have been worked systematically, and are considered among the most valuable in Nova Scotia. The average yield is 16 pennyweights of gold to a ton of quartz, and in 1869 these mines yielded 3,097 ounces of the precious metal, valued at $ 61,490. The Oldham Mines are Sj M. S. of Enfield, and are in a deep narrow valley, along whose bottom shafts have been sunk to reach the auriferous quartz. Between 1861 and 1869, 9,254 ounces of gold were sent from the Oldham diggings, and it is thought that yet richer lodes may be found at a greater depth. Soon after leaving Enfield the train passes along the S. E. shore of Grand Lake, which is 8 M. long by 1 - 2 M. wide. It crosses the outlet stream, runs around Long Lake, and intersects the Windsor Branch Railway at Windsor Junction. Station, Rocky Lake, on the lake of the same name, where large quantities of ice are cut by the Nova-Scotia Ice Company, for exportation to the United States. 3 M. N. E. of this station are ths Waver- ley Gold-Mines, where the gold is found in barrel-quartz, so named because it appears in cylindrical masses like barrels laid side by side, or like & corduroy-road. At its first discovery all the floating population of Halifax flocked out here, but they failed to better their condition, and the total yield between 1861 and 1869 was only about 1,600 ounces. Waverley vil- lage is picturesquely situated in a narrow valley between two lakes, and has about 600 inhabitants. I i ^ ANNAPOLIS ROUTE. Route IS. 83 and well sliel- tports of Pug- ence hay and •om the pretty The next sta- nanufacturing :o the N. to the J2). Stages also er Road (14 M ), e, Guysborough, aear Gay's River ir's Back, which i the alluvial de- a-washings have 1 begun '" 1803, •ming-towi with idge, 42 M. -om lid tliat point the es, to Melrose. ir the Shuben- Enfield is the d-Mines, where and labor Avere 1 the lodes have 3 most valuable gold to a ton of precious metal, Enfield, and are e been sunk to 4 ounces of gold that yet richer i. shore of Grand e outlet stream, inch Railv/ay at the same name, ce Company, for 1 are the Waver- named because by side, or like a ilation of Halifax m, and the total I. Waverley vil- n two lakes, and t After crossing Rocky Lake the train soon reaches the shores of the beautiful Bedford Basin, and follows their gi-aceful curves for several miles. On the 1. are fine views of the villas and hills beyond the blue water. Halifax, see page 93. 18. St. John to Halifax, by the Annapolis Valley. This is the pleasantest route, during calm weather, between the chief cities of the Maritime Provinces. After a passage of about 5 hours in the steamer, across the Bay of Fundy, the pretty scenery of the Annapolis Basin is traversed, and at Annapolis the passenger talies the train of the Windsor & Annapolis Railway, which runs through to Halifax. The line traverses a comparatively rich and picturesque coun- try, abounding in historic and poetic associations of the deepest interest. The distance between St. John and Halifax by this route is 86 M. less than by the Intercolonial Railway ; but the time on both routes is about the same, on account of the delay in crossing the Bay of Fundy. The Annapolis-llahfax line is only prac- ticable 4 times a week. The steamer leaves St. John at 8 A. M., on Monday, AVednes- day, Friday, and Saturday, connecting with the express trains which leave Annapolis at 2 p. M. and arrive at Halifax at about 8 p. m. Express trains leave Ilahfax at 8.15 a.m. on Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, connecting with the steamer which leaves Annapolis at 2.35 p. m. and arrives at St. John at 8 p. m. (Time-table ot 1874.) Fares. — St. John to Halifax, 1st class, S5; 2d class, $350; to Digby, $150; to Annapolis $2. Passengers for Halifax dine on the steamer and take tea at Kent- ville (10 minutes) ; those for St. John dine at Kentville (18 minutes) and take tea on the boat. There are two through trains each '^ay daily between Halifax and Annapolis. Special rates are made for excursions (limited time) by the agents of this route. Small & Hathaway, 89 Dock St., St. John. Distances. — St. John to Digby, 43 M. ; Annapolis. 61 ; Round Hill, 68 ; Bridge- town, 75; Paradise, 80; Lawrencetown, 83; Middleton , 89 ; Wilmot, 92; Kingston, 96; Morden Road, 101; Aylesford, 103; Berwick, 108; Waterville, 111 ; Cambridge. 113; Coldbrook, 115; Kentville, 120; Port Williams, 125; Wolfville, 127; Grand Pr6, 130; Ilorton Landing, 131; Avonport, 133; Hantsport, 138; Mount Denson, 140; Falmouth, 143; Windsor, 145 ; Three-Mile Plains, 148 ; Newport, 151 ; Ellers- house, 154; Stillwater, 157; Mount Uniacke, 164 ; Beaver Bank, 174; Windsor Junc- tion, 177 ; Rocky Lake, 179 ; Bedford, 182 ; Four-Mile House, 186 ; Halifax, 190. The steamer Empress leaves her wharf at Eeed's Point, St. John, and soon passes the heights and spires of Carleton on the r. and the lighthouse on Partridge Island on the 1., beyond which Mispeck Point is seen. Cape Spencer is thjn opened to the E., on the New BrunsAvick coast, and the steamer sweeps out into the open bay. Travellers who are subject to sea- sickness would do well to avoid this passage during or immediately after a breeze from the N. E. or S. W., or during a gale from any direction. At such times very rough Avater is found on the bay. It will be remembered that the ocean-steamships Pactolus and Connaught were lost in these waters. But in ordinary summer weather the bay is quiet, except for a light tidal swell, and will not affect the traveller whose mind is properly fixed on something outside of himself. Soon after passing Partridge Island, the dark ridge of the North Mt. is seen in advance, cleft by the gap called the * Digby Gut, which, in the earlier days, was known as St. George's Channel. The course is laid straight for this pass, and the steamer runs in by PHm Point, with its 7og- whistle and fixed light (visible 13 M.), and enters the tide-swept defile, \l i i I < H: m II I 7 ir IL 8-4 r.oute IS. ANN7.P0LIS BASIN. with bold and mountainous bluffs rising on either side. The shores on tlie 1. are 610 ft. high, and on the r. 400-560 ft., between which the tide rushes with a velocity of 5 knots an liour, making br jad and powerful swirls and eddies over 12-25 fathoms of water. After running for about 2 M. through this passage, the steamer enters the AnnapoHs Basin, and runs S. by E. 3 M. to Digby. " The white houses of Digby, scattered over the downs like a flock of washed sheep, had a somewhat chilly aspect, it is true, and made us long for the sun on them. But as I think of it now, I prefer to have the town and the pretty hillsides that stand about the basin in the light we saw them ; and especially do I like to recall the high wooden pier at Digby, deserted by the V' m i 'i! s fiii iiii 86 Moute IS. ANNAPOLIS ROYAL. last occupations was that of the Piflc Brigade, in 1850; but the post was abandoned soon after, on account of the numerous and successful deser- tions which thinned the ranks of the garrison. But when Canada passed into n state of semi-independence in 1867, this fortress was one of the few domains reserved to tlic British Crown. Tlie inner fort is entered by nn ancient arcliway which fronts towards the Basin, giving passage to tlic parade-ground, on wliicli are tlie quaint old English barracks, with steep roofs and great chimneys. In the S. E. bastion is the magazine, with a vaulted roof of masonry, near which are the foundations of the French barracks. From the parapet on this side are overlooked the landward out- works and the lines of the old Hessian and Waldecker settlements towards Clementsport. On the hillside beyond the marsh is seen an ancient house of the era of the French occupation, the only one now standing in the val- ley. In the bastion towards the river is a vaulted room, whence a passage leads down to the P'rench garrison-wharf; but the arched way has fallen in, and the wharf is now but a shapeless pile of stones. The * view from this angle of the works is very beautiful, including the villages of Annapo- lis Royal and Granville, the sombre heights of the North and South Mts., and the Basin for many miles, with Goat Island in the distance. The road which leads by the fortress passes the old garrison cemetery, St. Luke's Church, the court-house and county academy, and many quaint and antiquated mansions. A ferry crosses the Annapolis River to Granville (two inns), a busy little shipbuilding village, with 3-400 inhabitants and three churches. A road leads hence across the North Mt. in 4-5 M., to the hamlets oi Hillsburn and Leitchfield, on the Bay of Fundy. " Without the historic light of French adventure upon tins town and basin of Annapolis .... I confess that I should have no longing to stay here for a week ; notwithstanding the guide-book distinctly says that this harbor has ' a striking re- semblance to the beautiful Bay of Naples.' I am not offended at this remark, for it is the one always made about a harbor, and I am sure the passing traveller can stand it, if the Bay of Naples can." (Warner's Baddeck.) The Basin of Annapolis was first entered in 1604: by De Monts's fleet, exploring the shores of Acadie ; and the beauty of the scene so impressed the Baron de Pou- trincourt that he secured a gi'ant here, and named it Port Royal. After the failure of the colony at St. Croix Island, the people moved to this point, bringing nil their stores and supplies, and settl?d on the N. Jde of the river. In July, 160G, Lescarbot and another company of Frenchmen joined the new settlement, and conducted improvements of the land, while Poutrincourt and Champlain explored the Massachusetts coast. 400 Indians had been gathered by the sagamore Member- tou in a stockaded village near the fort, and all went on well iind favorably until De Monts's grant was annulled by the King of France, and then the colony was aban- doned. Lescarbot says of this expedition, and of Port Royal itself: " I must needs be so bold as to tell in this occurrence, that if ever that country be inhabited with Christians and civil people , the first praise thereof mus* of right be due to the authors of this voyage. .... Finally, being in the port, it was unto us a thing marvellous to see the fair distance and the largeness of it, and the moun- tains and hills that environed it, and I wondered how so fair a place did remain desert, being all filled with woods, seeing that so many pine away in the world which might make good of this land, if only they had a chief governor to conduct them thither." I T ANNAPOLIS ROYAL. Route 18. 87 he post wns ssful desar- nada passed e of the few itered by nn spage to the 3, with steep zine, with a the French mdward out- en ts towards nclent house ig in the val- ice a passage ly has fallen * view from sof Annapo- South Mts., ce. )n cemetery, and many lolls River to Avith 3-400 ss the North in the Bay of 1 and basin of Rre for a week ; 'a striking rc- « remark, for it seller can stand t, exploring the Baron de Pou- fter the failure t, bringing nil In July, 160G, ettlement, and iplain explored imore Member- orably until Le tony was aban- ■' I must needs f be inhabited ight be due to was unto us a md the moun- Eice did reniniu Y in the world lor to conduct Four years later the brave Baron de Poutrincourt left his estates in Champagne, with a deep cargo of supitlies, descended the rivers Aube and Seine, and sailed out from Dieppe (Feb. 26, 1610) On arriving at Port Royal, everything was found aa when left : and the work of proselyting the Indians was at once entered on. Mem- bertou and his tribe were c verted, baptized, and feasted, amid salutes from the cannon and the chanting of lue Te Deum ; and numerous other forest-clans soon followed thD same course. Poutrincourt was a Galilean Catholic, and hated the Jesuits, but was forced to take out two of them to his new domain. They assumed a high authority there, but were sternly rebuked by the Baron, who said, "It is my part to rule you on earth, and yours only to guide me to heaven." They threatened to lay Port Royal under interdict: and Poutrincourt's son and successor so greatly resented this that they left the colony on a mission ship sent out by the Marchioness de Ouercheville, and founded St. Sauveur, on the island of Mount Desert. In 1613, after the Vir- ginians under Capt. Argall had destroyed St. Sauveur, the vengef\il Jesuits piloted their fleet to Port Royal, which was completely demolished. Poutrincourt came out in 1614 only to find his colony in ruins, and the remnant of the people wandering in the forest ; and was so disheartened that ho returned to France, where he was killed, the next year, in the battle of Mcry-sur-Seine. It is a memorable fact that these attacks of the Virginians on Mount Desert and Port Royal were the very commencement of the wars between Great Britain and France in North America, " whicli scarcely ever entirely cea.sed until, at the cost of infinite blood and treasure, France was stripped of all her possessions in America by the peace of 1763." Between 1620 and 1630 an ephemeral Scotti.<ov. Mascnrene showed a bold front, and provisions and men came in from Boston. The town was destroyed by the artillery of the fort and by incendiary sorties, since it served to shelter the hostile riflemen. Soon after Duvivier and Laloutre had retired, two French frigates entered the Basin and captured some Bblps of Massachusetts, but left four days before Tyng's Boston squadron arrived. A year later, De llamezay menaced the fort with 700 men, but was easily beaten off by the garrison, aided by the frigates Chester, 60, and Shirley, 20, which were lying iu the Basin. After the deportation of the Acadians, Annapolis remained in peace until 1781, when two American war-vessels ascended the Basin by night, surprised and captured the fortress and spiked its guns, and plundered every house in the town, after locking the citizens up in the old block-house. The Annapolis Valley. This pretty district has suffered, like the St. John River, from the absurdly ex- travagant descriptions of its local admirers, and its depreciation by Mr. Warner (see page 84) expresses the natural reaction which must be felt by travellers (unless they are from Newfoundland o^ Labrador) after comparing the actual valley with these high-tlown paneg^rl"?. A recent Provincial writer says : " The route of the Wind- sor & Annapolis Ruil'vay lies through a magnificent farming-country whose beauty is so great that we exhaust the English language of its adjectives, and are compelled to revert to the quaint old French whicli was spoken by the early settlers of this Garden of Canada, in our efforts to describe it." In point of fact the Annapolis region is far inferior either in beauty or fertility to the valleys of the Nashua, the Schuylkill, the Shenandoah, and scores of other familiar streams which have been described without effusion and without impressing the service of alien languages. The Editor walked through p- considerable portion of this valley, in the process of a closer analysis of its features, and found a tranquil and commonplace farming- district, devoid of salient points of interest, and occupied by an insufficient popula- tion, among whose hamlets he found unvarying and honest hospitality and kiud- ness. It is a peaceful rural land, hemmed in between liigh and monotonous ridges, blooming during its brief summer, and will rifford a series of pretty views and pleas- ing suggestions to the traveller whose expectations have not been raised beyond bounds by the exaggerated praises of well-meaning, but injudicious authors. It is claimed that the apples of the Annapolis Valley are the best in America, and 60,000 barrels are exported yearly, — many of which are sold in the cities of Great Britain. The chief productions of the district are hay, cheese, and live-stock, a large proportion of which is exported. The Halifax train runs out from Annapolis over the lowlands, and takes a course to the N. E., near the old highway. Bridgetown {Graniille House) is the first important statio.., and is 14 M. from Annapolis, at the head of navigation on the river. It has about 1,000 inhabitants, 4 churches, and a weekly newspaper, and is situated in a district of apple orchards and rich pastures. Some manufacturing is done on the water-power of WILMOT SPRINGS. lioute IS. 89 ngland, and 1 lyM were speut fmni the rani- i^tition ; Sulicr- f) I'rnncc, nml L, in honor of Bloody Brook, and Micniacs. of siege, being ipo allies. In that jear the alontre. Five hcsiejrers were ued for nearly ions and men fort and by after Duvivier captured Fonie adion arrived. *ily beaten off ich were lying lined in peace ight, surpri.'cd house in the e absurdly cx- r. Warner (see rs (unless they lley with these c of the Wind- whose beauty 1 are compelled cottiers of this the Annapolis lie Nashua, the I ich have been ien languages. lic process of a place farming- Bicient popula- ility and kind- )tonous ridges, ews and pleas- raised beyond uthors. I America, and cities of Great e-stock,alargo is, find takes n {Granville ipolis, at the , 4 churches, pie orchards ter-powcr of the Annapolis River; and the surrounding country is well populated, and ia reputed to be one of the healtliicst districts in Nova Scotia. To tho S. is Bloody Brook, where a detachment of New-Englund troops was mas- sacred !iy the French and Indians; and rouds lead up over tho South Mt. into the howling wilderness of the interior. 5 M. from Bridgetown, over the North Mt., is the obscure marine hamlet of Hampton. Paradise (small inn) is a pleasantly situated village of about 400 inhab- itants, with several saw and grist mills and tanneries. The principal ex- ports are lumber and cheese, though there are also lavp^e deposits of mer- chantable granite in the vicinity. A road crosses the North ^It. to Port Williams, 7 M. distant, a fishing-village of about 300 inhabitants, situated on the Bay of Fundy. The coast is illuminated here, at Hig!;t, by two white lights. Farther down the shore is tho hamlot of St. Croix Cove. Lawrencetown is a prosperous- village of about 600 inhabitants, whence much lumber is exported. In 1754, 20,000 acres in this vicinity were granted to 20 gentlemen, who named their new domain in honor oi' Gov. Lawrence. 8 M. distant, on the summit of the North Mt., is the hamlet of Havelock, beyond which is the farming settlement of ^ft. Ilawley, near the Bay of Fundy. New Albany {9,mvi\\ inn) is a forest-village 8-10 M. S. PI of Lawrencetown; and about 10 M. farther into the great central wilderness is the farming district of Sjiringfield, beyond the South Mt. Jl/tJcWest€r (see Route 24). I WINDSOR. LodU 18. 91 'ng towns South Mt. bound chain Kempt Lake, ment by Lake lie great Lake liver. Devil's Ooo«e I, but it's all ea in a calm, there with a as silent and that country by the Lord, ugranted wil- tlio last (and ;hat is neither re." inhabitants, o the N. W. Tille, a ship- of cord wood 3 farther up lighthouse, h is shorter g the course I South Mt, asing angle. Idbrook, the station), the This town -nd there are manganese tain lead to Dok (14 M.), '.), Canning irsday, reach- Friday. The )g country is ok Valley, at , a beautiful shores. This Liakc and tlie md S. E. of g Blue Mts., i. At 20 M. ner's Hotel), m this point ')• 5*1 The Halifax train runs E. from Kentville down the Cornwallis Valley to Port Williams, which is 1^ M. from the village of that name, whence daily Btnges run to Canning. The next station is Wolfvillc, from which the Land of Kvangclino may most easily be visited (.see Route 22). The buildings of Acadia College are seen on the hill to the r. of the track. The Halifax train runs out from Wolfville with the wide expanse of the rccluimed meadows on the 1., beyond which is Cape Blomidon, looming leagues away. In a few minutes tlio train reaches Grand Pr6, and as it slows up before stopping, tlie tree is seen (on the 1. about 800 ft. from the track) which marks the site of the ancient Acadian chapel. Beyond Ilor- ion Landing the Gaspereaux River is crossed, and the line begins to swing around toward the S. E. At Avmpovt the line reaches the broad Avon River, and runs along its 1. bank to Ilantsport (two inns). This is a largo manufacturing and shipbuilding village, where numerous vessels are owned. In the vicinity are productive quarries of freestone. Mount Benson station is near the hill whose off-look Judge Haliburton so highly extols: — " I have seen at dilTcrcnt periods of my life a good deal of Europe and much of America; but I have seldom seen anything to be compared with the view of the Basin of .Minos and its adjacent landscape, as it presents itself to you on your a.sccnt of Mount Denson Ho who travels on this continent, and docs not spend a few days on the shores of this beautiful and extraordinary bai^in, may bo said to have mis.«ed one of the greatest attractions on this side of the water." The next station is Falmouth, in a region which abounds in gypsum. Back toward Central Falmouth there are prolific orchards of apples. The line now crosses the Avon River on the most costly bridge in the Mari- time Provinces, over the singular tides of this system of waters. The traveller who passes from Annapolis to Windsor at the hours of low-tide will sympathize with the author of " Baddcck," who says that the Avon " would have been a charming river if there had been a drop of water in it. I never knew before how mucli water adds to a river. Its slimy bottom was quite a ghastly spectacle, an ugly rent in the land that nothing could heal but the friendly returning tide. I should think it would be confu.sing to dwell by a river that runs first one way aud then the other and then vani.shes altogether." The remarkable tides of this river are also described by Mr. Noble, as follows : The tide was out, " leaving miles of black " (red) " river-bottom entirely bare, with only a small stream coursing through in a serpentine manner. A line of blue water was visible on the northern horizon. After an absence of an hour or so, I loitered backj when, to my surprise, tliere was a river like the Hudson at Catskill, running up with a powerful current. The high wharf, upon which but a short time before I had stood and surveyed the black, unsightly fields of mud, was now up to its mid* die in the turbid and wh'rling stream." Windsor ( Clifton House, large and comfortable; Avon House) is a cul- tured and prosperous village of 2,715 inhabitants, occupying the promon- tory at the intersection of the Avon and St. Croix Rivers. The adjacent districts of Falmouth and St. Croix have about 3,300 inhabitants. There are in Windsor 7 churches, a bank, and several manufactories ; there are also several busy shipyards. The chief exportation of Windsor is plaster of Paris and gypsum, large quantities of which are used in the United 92 lioute 18. WINDSOR. ' 1 m. m States for fertilizing the soil. Near the end of the railway bridge, on i projecting hill, is the Clifton mansion, formerly the home of the genla and witty Thomas C. Haliburton (born at Windsor in 1797, lb years i Judge in Nova Scotia, 6 years an M. P. at London, and died in 1865), th( author of the "Sam Slick" books. On the knoll over the village are the crumbling block-hoi^ses and eartli- works of Fort Edward, whence is obtained a pretty view down the widen ing Avon and out over the distant Basin of Minas. About 1 M. from the station, on a hill which overlooks the fine valley of the Avon and its un- cleared mouutain-rim, are the plain buildings of King's College, the old est college now existing in Canada. It was founded in 1787, and chartered by King George III. in 1802. It is under I the control and patronage of the Anglican Church, and is well endowed with schol- arships, honors, etc., but has only 5 professors and a limited number of students. The Nova-Scotians have not hitherto sought to qualify themselves by culture and study for public honors and preferments, because they knew that all the offices in the Province would be filled by British carpet-baggers. King's College has also a divinity school for Episcopalian students. The Province of Nova Scotia is occupied by 36 Christian sects. Of its inhabitants. C5,124 belong to the Anglican Church, and are ministered to by a lord bishop, 4 canons, 8 rural deans, and 68 clergymen. There are 102,001 Catholics, 103,539 Pres- byterians, 73,430 Baptists, 41,751 Methodists, and 4,958 Lutherans (census of 1871). The site of Windsor was called by the Indians Pisiquid, " the Junction of the Waters," and the adjacent lowlands were settled at an early day by the French, who raised large quantities of wheat and exported it to Boston. The French settled in this vicinity about the middle of the 17th century, but retired far into the interior at the time of tho British conquest. Gov. Lawrence issued a proclamation inviting settlers to ccme in from New England, stating that " 100,000 acres of land had been cultivated and had borne wheat, rye, barley, oats, hemp, flax, etc., for the last cen- tury without failure." The deserted French hamlets were occupied in 1759-60 by families from Massachusetts and Rhode Island, and their descendants still possess the land. The Rhode-Islanders erected the township of Newport, Massachusetts formed Falmouth, and Windsor was granted to British officers and was fortified in 1759. The broad rich marshes near Windsor had attracted a large Acadian popula- tion, and here was their principal church, whose site is still venerated by the Mic- mac Indians. " I '•annot recall a prettier village than this. If you doubt my word, come and Bee it. Yonder we discern a portion of the Basin of Minas ; around us are the rich meadows of Nova Scotia. Intellect has here placed a crowning college upon a hill ; opulence has surrounded it with picturesque villas." (Cozzins.) Another writer has spoken with enthusiasm of Windsor's " wide and beautiful environing mead- ows and the hanging-gardens of mountain-forests on the S. and W " The Halifax train sweeps along the St. Croix River around Windsor, passing (on the r.) the dark buildings of King's College, on a hilltop, with the new chapel in front of their line. The character of the landscape be- gins to change, and to present a striking contrast with the agricultural regions just traversed. " Indeed, if a man cau live on rocks, like a goat, he may settle anywhere between Windsor and Halifax. With the exception of a wild pond or two, we saw nothing but rocks and stunted firs for forty-five miles, a monotony unrelieved by one pic- turesque feature. Then we longed for the ' Garden of Nova Scotia,' and understi-od what is meant by the name." (Warner's Baddeck.) Beyond Three-Mile Plains the traui reaches Newport, near which large r y bridge, on of the genia )7, la years i in 1865), th( 'ses and eartli wn the widen 1 M. from the on and its lui. liege, the old 02. It is under )wed with schol- bcr of students. s by culture and all the offices ia )llege has also a its inhabitants, a lord bishop, 4 cs, 103,539 Pres- census of 1871). Junction of the the French , who French settled in into the interior ^ination inviting if land had been for the last cen- l in 1759-60 by ints still possess ;, Massachusetts . was fortified in Acadian popula- ted by the Mic- word, come and i us are the rich icge upon a hill ; Another writer ivironing mead- >und Windsor, a hilltop, Avith landscape be- le agricultural ywhere between we saw nothing ;ved by one pic- and understood Lr which large I! ^1 >l^ HALIFAX. Rcmte 19. 93 quantities of gypsum are quarried from the veins in the soft marly sand- stone. Nearly 3,000 tons of this fine fibrous mineral are shipped yearly from Newport to the United States. To the N. are the villages of Brooklyn (5 M.), devoted to manufacturing; Scotch Village (9 M.), a farming settlement; and Burlington, on the Kennetcook River (10 M.). Chivirie and Walton, 20-22 M. N., on the Basin of Minas, are accessible from Newport by a tri-weekly conveyance. The train passes on to filers- house (small inn), a hamlet clustered around a furniture-factory and lumber-mills. 2i M. distant is the settlement at the foot of the Ardoise ML, which is the highest point of land in the Province, and overlooks Falmouth, Windsor, and the Basin of Minas. The train now crosses the Five-Island Lake, skirts Uniacke Lake, with Mt. Uniacke on the N., and stops at the Mt. Uniacke station (small inn). The Mt. Uniacke estate and i..cinsion were founded more than 50 years ago by Richard John Uniacke, then Attorney-General of Nova Scotia. The house occupies a picturesque position between two rock-bound lakes, and the domain has a hard- working tenantry. The 3ft. Uniacke Gold-Mines are 3 M. from the sta- tion, and were opened in 1865. In 1869 the mines yielded $37,340, re $ 345 to each workman, being 6 ounces and 4 pennyweights from each ton of ore. For the next 10 M. the line traverses an irredeemable wil- derness, and then reaches Beaver Bank, whence lumber and slate are exported. At Windsor Junction the train runs on to the rails of the Intercolonial Railway (see page 82), which it follows to Halifax. w 19. Halifax. Arrival from the Sea. — Cape Sambro is usually seen first by the passenger on the transatlantic steamers, and Halifax Harbor is soon entered between the light- houses on Chebucto Head and Devil Island. These lights are 7>^ M. apart, Chebucto (on the 1.) having a revolving light visible for 18 M., and Devil Island a fixed red light on a brown tower. On the VV. shore the fishing-hamlets of Portuguese Cove, Bear Cove, and Herring Cove are passed in succession. 4 M. S. E. of Herring Cove is the dangerous Thrumcap Shoal, where H. B. M. frigate La Tribune, 44, was ■wrecked in 1797, and nearly all her people were lost, partly by reason of an absurd stretch of naval punctilio. Between this shoal and McNab's Island on one side, and the mainland on the other, is the long and narrow strait called the Eastern Passage. In 1862 the Confederate cruiser Tallahassee was blockaded in Halifax Harbor by a squadron of United-Slates frigates. The shallow and tortuous Eastern Passage was not watched, since nothing but small fishing-craft had ever traversed it, and it was considered impassable for a steamer like the Tallahassee. But Capt. Wood took ad- vantage of the high tide, on a dark night, and crept cautiously out behind McNab'8 Island. By daylight he was far out of sight of the outwitted blockading fleet. 2 51. from Herring Cove the steamer passes Salisbury Head, and runs between the Martello Tower and lighthouse on Maugher Beach (r. side) and the York Redoubt (1)^ M. apart) Near the Redoubt is a Catholic church, and a little above is the hamlet of Falkland, with its Episcopal church, beyond which the N. W. Arm opens on the 1. Passing between the batteries on McNab's Island and Fort Ogilvie, on Point Pleasant, the steamship soon runs by Fort Clarence and the fortress on George Island, and reaches her wharf at Halifax, with the town of Dartmouth and the great Insane Asylum on the opposite shore. Arrival by KalUvay. — The station is at Richmond, some distance from the city, but passengers can go in either by carriage, hotel-omnibus, or horse-car. The riilway is now being prolonged by a system of costly works, and will soon reach a terminus within the city. '!! i! ,'■ h;- ' Mi 1 1 94 iJoM^e if?. HALIFAX. Hotels. — The *Halifax, 107 HoUis St., $2 a day; the * International, on Hoi- lis St., $1.75-2 a day ; Carlton House, 57 Argyle St., small but aristocratic ; Man- eion House, 149 Barringtou St. ; Waverloy, 8 Barrington St. ; and numerous small eecond-clnss houses, of which the Arlington and the Cambridge, nearly opposite the International, are the best situated (3? 1-1.25 a day). An attempt is now being made to provide for Halifax a flrst-class modern hotel, like the Victoria at St. John. Restaurants* — One of the best is that connected with the Acadian Hotel, 64 Granville St. Ices, pastry, and confectionery may be obtained at the shops on Uol- lis St. American beverages are compounded at the bar in the Halifax House. Reading-Booms. — The Young Men's Christian Association, comer of Gran- ville and Prince Sts. ; the Provincial Library, in the Parliament Buildings ; and in the two chief hotels. The Halifax Library is at 197 Ilollis St. ; and the Citizens' Free Library (founded by Chief Justice Sir William Young) is at 2G5 Barrington St., and is open from 8 to 6 p. m. The Merchants' Exchange and Reading-Room is at 158 Hollis St. Clubs. — The Hahfax Club has an elegant house at 155 Ilollis St. ; the Albion ig at 87 Hollis St. ; the Catholic Young Men's Club, 1 Grafton St. (open from 2 to 10 P.M.); the Highland, North British, St. George's, Charitable Irish, and Gerniania Societies. The Royal Halifax Yacht Club has a house at Richmond, with billiard and reading rooms, and a line of piers and boat-houses for the vessels of their fleet. Amusements of various kinds are afforded, at different times, in the Temper- ance Hall, on Starr St. During the winter some fine skating is enjoyed at the Rink, in the Public Gardens. Good games of cricket and indifferent base-ball playing may be seen on the Garrison Cricket-ground. But Halifax is chiefly famous for the in- terest it takes in trials of skill between yachtsmen and carsmen, and exciting aquatic contests occur frequently during the summer. Horse-cars run every 15 minutes, from 6 A. M. to 10 p. M., from the Richmond Station to the Fresh- Water Bridge, traversing the Campbell Road, Upper Wa cr St., Granville St., Hollis, Morris, and Pleasant Sts. Also on Barrington St. atd the Spring Garden Road to the Poor Asylum. RaHways. — The Intercolonial, running to St. John, N. B., in 276 M. (see Routes 16 and 17), and to Pictou in 113 M. (see Route 31); the Windsor & Annap- olis, prolonged by a steamship connection to St. John (see Route 18). Steamsliips. — The Allan Line, fortnightly, for St. John's, N. F., Queenstown, and Liverpool, Norfolk, and Baltimore. Fares, Halifax to Liverpool, $75 and $25; to Norfolk or Baltimore, $20 and $12. The Anchor Line, for St. John's, N. F., and Glasgow. The Royal Mail Steamers Alpha and Delta (Cunard Line) leave Halifax for Bermuda and St. Thomas every fourth Monday, connecting at St. Thomas with steamships for all parts of the West Indies, Panama, and the Spanish Main. The Carroll and Alhambra leave Esson's Wharf for Boston on alternate Satur- days. Fare, $8; with state-room, $9. The Falmouth leaves Dominion Wharf for Portland every Tuesday at 4 p. m. This vessel is nearly new, and is handsomely fitted up for passenger-traffic. Fares, Halifax to Portland, $ 7 and $5 ; to Boston, S 8 and f 6.50 ; to New York (by the Sound boats), $ 12 and % 10.50. The Carroll or the Alhambra leaves Esson's Wharf every Monday noon for the Strait of Canso and Charlottetown, P. E. I. Fares to Charlottetown, cabin, §4; cabin state-room, $5; saloon state-room, $6. The George Shattvck leaves Boak's Wharf, fortnightly, for N. ^dney, C. B., and St. Pierre Miq. (see Route 50). The steamship Virgo leaves for Sydney, C- B., and St. John's, N. F. , every alternate Tues- day (see Routes 36 and 51). Fares, to Sydney, $ 8 ; to St. John's, $ 15 ; steerage to either port, $ 5. The Micmac cruises in the harbor during the summer, running from the South Perry Wharf to McNab's Island and up the N. W. Arm (fare, 25c.). The steam- ferry from Dartmouth has its point of departure near the foot of George St. The Goliah makes frequent trips up the Bedford Basin. Stages leave Halifax daily for Chester, Lunenburg, Liverpool, Shelburne, and Yarmouth (see Route 24), departing at 6 a. m. Stages leave at 6 a. m. on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday for Musquodoboit Harbor, Jeddore, Ship Harbor, Tangier, Sheet Harbor, Beaver Harbor, and Sahnon River (see Route 29). Halifax, the capital of the Province of Nova Scotia, and the chief naval station of the British Empire in the Western Hemisphere, occupies a commanding position on one of the finest hax-bors of the Atlantic coast. It y HALIFAX. Jioute 19. 95 Itlonal, on Hoi- Itocratic; Man- luuierous small Vly opposite the It is now being Tia at St. John. idian Hotel, 64 : shops on liol- House. ■corner of Gran- lldings ; and in Id the Citizens' iBarrington St., ^ing-Room is at ; the Albion is n from 2 to 10 and Gernmnia d, with billiard s of their fleet. in tlie Teniper- yed at the Iliuk, )all playing may nous for the in- exciting aquatic 1 the Richmond Ipper Wa cr St., ton St. aLd the In 276 M. (see ndsor &Annap- F., Queenstown, irpool, $75 and for St. John's, nard Line) leave ig at St. Thomas panish Main, alternate Satur- •ominion Wharf d is handsomely $ 5 ; to Boston, ly noon for the wn, cabin, $4; ■k leaves Boak's Route 60). The r' alternate Tues- 1 15 ; steerage to from the South !.). The steam- leorge St. The Shelburne, and M. on Monday, arbor, Tangier, ind the chief re, occupies a ntic coast. It > > has 29,582 inhabitants (census of 1871), with 7 banks, 4 daily papers and several tri-weeklies and weeklies, and 24 churches (7 Anglican, 5 Presby- terian, 3 each of Catholic, Wesleyan, and Baptist). The city occupies a picturesque positici on the E. slope of the peninsula (of 3,000 acres), be- tween the bay, the N. W. Arm, and the Bedford Basin; and looks out upon a noble harbor, deep, completely sheltered, easily accessible, and large enough " to contain all the navies of Europe." In 1869 the imports amounted to $7,202,504, and the exports to $3,169,548; and in 1870 the assessed valuation of the city was $16,753,812. The city has a copious supply of water, which is drawn from the Chain Lakes, about 12 M. dis- tant, and so high above Halifax that it can force jets over the highest houses by its own pressure. There is a fire-alarm telegraph, and an eflfi- cient fire department, with several steam-engines. The city lies along the shore of the harbor for 2^ M., and is about | M. wide. Its plan is regular, and some of the business streets are well built ; but the general character of the houses is that of poor construction and dingy colors. It has, however, been much bettered of late years, owing to the improvements after two great fires, and to the wealth which flowed in during the American civil war, and hardly deserves the severe criticism of a recent traveller: " Probably there is not anywhere a more rusty, for- lorn town, and this in spite of its magnificent situation." Hollis and Granville Streets, in the vicinity of the Parliament Buildings, contain the most attractive shops and the headquarters of the great import- ing houses. Many of the buildings in this section are of solid and elegant construction, though the prevalence of dark colors gives a sombre hue to the' street lines. The Parliament Building occupies the square between Hollis, George, Granville, and Prince Streets, and is surrounded with trees. In 1830 this plain structure of gray stone was called the finest building in North America, but American architecture has advanced very far since that time. Opposite, the Granville-St. entrance is the Library, occupying a very cosey little hall, and supplied Avith British and Canadian works on law, history, and science. In the N. part of the building is the plain and commodious hall of the House of Assembly; and on the S. is the chauibti' of the Legislative Council, in which are some fine portraits. On the r. and 1. of the vice-regal throne are full-length * portraits of King George III. and Queen Charlotte; on the N. wall are Chief Justice Blowers, King William IV., Judge Haliburton (see page 92), * Sir Thomas Strange (by Benjamin West), and Sir Brenton Haliburton. Opposite the throne are Nova Scotia's military heroes. Sir John Inglis (the defender of Lucknow) and Sir W. Fenwick Williams of Kars. On the S. wall are full-length por- traits of King George II. and Queen Caroline. The new Provincial Building is E. of the Parliament Building, on Hollis St., and is 140 by 70 ft in area. It is built of brown freestone, in j 1' ^ i ' ¥ m 9G Houte 19. HALIFAX. Ii >B' i w I. i ! ill rrx i r$ \ I tin omato style of architecture, and cost $120,000. The lower storj' is occupied by the Post-Ofhce ; and tlie tliird floor contains the * Provincial Museum, whicli exhibits preserved birds, animals, reptiles, fossils, min- erals, shells, coins, and specimens of the stones, minerals, coals, and gold ores of Nova Scotia. Tliero are also numerous Indian relics, curiosities from Japan and China, naval models, and old portraits. Opposite the en- trance is a gilt pyramid, which represents the amount of gold produced in the Province between 1862 and 1870,-6 tons, 8 cwt., valued at S 3,373,431. Most of this gold has been coined at the U. S. Mint in Phila- delphia, and is purer and finer than that of California and Montana. On the corner of Granville and Prince Streets, near the Parliament Building, is the new and stately stone building of the Young Men's Chris- tian Association, with its reading-rooms and other departments. The massive brownstone house of the Halifax Club is to the S., on Hollis c^t. The * Citadel covers the summit of the hill upon whose slopes the city is built, and is 250 ft. above the level of the sea. Visitors are admitted and allowed to pass around the rampai'ts under escort of a soldier, after regis- tei'ing their names at the gate. The attendant soldier will point out all the objects of interest, and (if he be an artillerist) will give instructive discourse on the armament, though his language may sometimes become hopcicssly technical. The Citadel is a fortress of the first class, according to the standards of the old school ; though of late years the government has bestowed much attention on the works at George's Island, which are more important in a naval point of view. The -works •were commenced by Prince Edward, the Duke of Kent, and the father of Queen "Victoria, who was then Comninnder of the Forces on this station. He em- ployed in the sei-vice a large number of the Maroons, who had been conquered by the British, and were banished from Jamaica, and subsequently deported to Sierra Leone. Changes and additions have been made nearly every year since, until the present immense stronghold has been completed. It is separated from the glacis by a deep moat, over which are the guns on the numerous bastions. The mas.eivc ma- Fonry of the walls seems to defy assault, and the extensive barracks within are said to bo bomb-proof. During the years 1873-74 the artillery has been changed, and the previous mixed armament has been to a great degree replaced by muzzle-load- ing Woolwich guns of heavy calibre, adapted for firing the conical Palliser shot with points of chilled iron. The visitor is allowed to walk around the circuit of the ram- parts, and this elevated station affords a broad view on either side. Perhaps the Lost prospect is that from the S. E. bastion, overlooking the crowded city on the plopes below; the narrow harbor with its shipping; Dartmouth, sweeping up to- ward Bedford Basin; Fort Clarence, below Dartmouth, with its dark casemates; SIcNab's Island, crowned with batteries and shutting in the Eastern Passage ; the outer harbor, with its fortified points, and the ocean beyond. Near the portal of the citadel is an outer battery of antiquated guns; and at the S. end of the glacis are the extensive barracks of the Royal Artillery. Other mili- tary quarters arc seen on the opposite side of the Citadel. '*But if you cast your eyes over yonder magnificent bay, where vessels bearing flags of all nations are at anchor, and then let your vision sweep past and over the ii^landa to the outlets beyond, where the quiet ocean lies, bordered with fog banks that loom ominously at the boundary -lice of the horizon, you will sec a picture of marvellous beauty ; for the coast scenery here transcends our own sea-shores, both in color and outline. And behind us again stretch large green plains, dotted with cottages, and bounded with undulating liills, with now and then glimpses of blue i. HiLu, HALIFAX. Iloute 19. 97 er stoiy is Provincial )ssils, min- , and gold curiosities iito the en- cl produced valued at it in Phila- tana. ?'ar] lament en's Chris- ents. The lollis St. s the city is Imitted and after regis- loint out all instructive nes become 1, according government , which are nd the father ion. He em- lonquercd by ted to Sierra ice, until the the glacis by masyivc ma- ithin arc said changed, and muzzlc-load- ^er shot with t of the ram- Perhaps the I city on the cping up to- i casemates; Passage; the ; and at the Other miU- isels bearing ind over the h fogbanks a picture of shores, both dotted with [)ses of blue I water; and as wo walk down Citadel Hill, wo fM hnlf reconciled to Halifax, its (iMJiiiit inouldv old fjabie.?, ita soldiers and sailors, it-< togs, cjiIjs, i)onny and half- ptiJiiy tolvons, and all iU little, odd, outlandish ijecuiiaritics."' (Cozzlns.) Lower Water St. borders the harbor-lVont, find gives access to the wiiarves of the various steamship and packet lines. It runs from the Ordnance Yard, at the foot of Buckinghani St., to the Government reser- vation near George Island, and presents a remarkably dingy and dilapi- dated appearance throughout its entire length. The Queen's Dockyard occupies ^ M. of the shore of the upper harbor, and is surrounded on the landward side by a high stone-wall. It contains the usual paraphernalia of a first-class navy-yard, — storehouses, machine- shops, docks, arsenals, a hospital, and a lino of ofFiccrs' quarters. It is much used by the frigates of the British navy, both to repair and to refit, and the visitor may generally see here two or three vessels of Her Britan- nic Majesty. The Dockyard was founded in 1758, and received groat additions (including the present wall) in 1770. During the two great wars with the United States it was invaluable as a station for the royal navy, whose tleets thence descended upon the American coast. Many trophies of the war of 1812 were kept here (as similar marine- mementos of another nation are kept in the Brooklyn and \Vashi:\ Yards), including the flgure-head of the unfortunate American frigate, luo Chesapeake, which was captured in 1813, off Boston Harbor, by the British frigate Shannon, and was brought into Halifax with great rejoicing. It is, perhaps, in kindly recognition of the new fraternity of the Anglo-.\merican nations, that the Imperial Government has lately caused these invidious emblems of strife to be removed. The Dockyard is not open to the public, but the superintendent will generally admit visitors upon presentation of their cards. In the N. \V. part of the city, near the foot of Citadel Hill, is the Military Hospital, before which is the Garrison Chapel, a plain wooden building on whose inner walls are many mural tablets in memory of ofli- cers who have died on this station. Beyond this point, Brunswick St. runs N. W. by the Church of the Redeemer to St. George's Church, a sin- gular wooden building of a circular form. At the corner of Brunswick and Gerrish Sts. is a cemetery, in which stands a quaint little church dating from 1761, having been crecied by one of the first companies of German immigrants. On Gottingen St. is the Church of St. Joseph, where the Catholic seamen of the fleet attend mass on Sunday at 9^ A. m. Near this building is the Orphan Asylum of the Sisters of Charity. Farther N. on Gottingen St. is the Deaf and Dumb Asylum, beyond which, on North St., is the Roman Catholic College of St. Mary, at Belle Air. This institution is under the charge of the Christian Brothers, and has the same line of studies as an American high-school. Farther out on Gottingen St. is the Admiralty House, the oflicial residence of the com- mander-in-chief of the North-American and West-Indian Squadrons, be- yond which are the Wellington Barracks, over the Richmond railway- station. From the plateau on which the secluded Admiralty House is 5 a 98 Jtoute 19. HALIFAX. IH 111" k fT 1 m '.I I lii located, the visitor can look down on the Queen's Dockyard, the fleet, and the inner harbor. The Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. Mary is on the Spring Garden Road, near its intersection with Pleasant St. It has recently been much enlarged and improved by the addition of an elegant granite fapndc and spire, in florid Gothic architecture. The Cathedral fronts on an old and honored cemeterj', on whose E. side is a finely conceived * monument to Welsford and Parker, the Nova-Scotian heroes of the Crimean War. (Major Welsford was killed in the storming of the Redan.) It consists of a small but massive arch of brownstone, standing on a broad gi'anite base, and supporting a statue of the British lion. Opposite the cemetery, on Pleasant St., is the Presbyterian Church of St. Matthew (under the care of Rev. George M. Grant). Above the Cathedral, on the Spring Garden Road, is the handsome building of the Court House, well situated amid open grounds, near the jail and the capacious drill-sheds. The Horticultural Gardens are on the Spring Garden Road, and are well arranged and cared for. They were purchased by the city in Sep*<5mber, 1874, and were then united with the Public Gardens, which are just S. of Citadel Hill. Military music is given here by the garrison bands during the summer. Near the Gardens is the Convent of the Sacred Heart, a stately building situated in pleasant grounds. The Protestant Cemetery adjoins the Horticultural Gardens on the W., and contains a great num- ber of monuments. In the same quarter of the city, below Morris St., are the new Blind Asylum, the City Hospital, and the immense and stately building of the Poor Asylum, lately completed at a cost of $260,000. The Oovernment House is a short distance beyond St. Matthew's Church, on Pleasant St., and is the oflUcial residence of the Lieutenant- Governor of Nova Scotia. It is a plain and massive old stone building, with projecting wings, and is nearly surrounded by trees. Farther S , on Morris St., is the Anglican Cathedral of St. Luke, a plain and homely wooden building. Beyond this point are the pretty wooden churches and villas which extend toward Point Pleasant. At the foot of South St. are the Ordnance Grounds, from whose wharf the lower harbor is overlooked. About 1,800 ft. distant is George's Island, on which is a powerful modem fortress, bearing a heavy armament from which immense chilled- iron or steel-pointed shot could be hurled against a hostile fleet. This position is the key to the harbor, and converges its fire with that of Fort Clarence, a low but massive casemated work, 1 M. S. E. on the Dartmouth shore, whose guns could eweep the Eastern Passage and the inner harboi\ The pa-ssage from the outer har- bor is defended by the York Redoubt, near Sandwich Point, by a new line of bat- teries on the N. W. shore of McNab's Island, and by the forts on Point Pleasant. At the comer of Prince and Barrington Sts. is St. Paul's Episcopal Church, a plain and spacious old building (built in 1750), with numerous mural tablets on the inner walls. Dalhousie College and University is at the comer of Duke and Barrington Sts., and was founded by the Earl of Dalliousie while he was Governor-General of Canada. Its design was to it permanent colonies along these shores were made by Massachusetts Loyalists in 1784. Hammond''s Plains are 7 M. W. of Bedford, and were settled in 1815 by slaves brought away from tho shores of Maryland and Virginia by the British fleets. This is, like the other villages of freed blacks throughout tho Province, dirty and dil.ipi- datcd to tho last degree. To the N. W. is the Pockwock Lake, 4 M. long, with di- Tersifled shores, and abounding in trout. •' The road to Point Pleasant is a favorite promenade in the long Acadian twilights. Midway between the city and the Point lies ' Kissing Bridge,' which the Halifax maidens sometimes pass over. Who gathers toll nobody knows, but — " Poiut Pleasant projects between the harbor and the N. W. Arm. and is covered with pretty groves of evergreen trees, threaded by narrov/ roads, and now being laid out for a public park. The principal fortification is Fort Offilvie, a garrisoned post, whose artillery commands tho channel. A short distance to the W. is the antiquated structure called the Prince of WaU&'s Tower, from which fine views are afforded. The Point Pleasant Battery is near the water's edge, and is intended to sweep tho outer passage. The Northwest Arm is 4 M. long and ^ M. wide, and is a river-liko Inlet, which runs N. W. from the harbor to within 2 M. of the Bedford Basin. ' Ni L im 1^ DARTMOUTH. Route 21. 101 Its shores are high and picturesque, and on tlie Halifax side are scvornl fine mansions, surrounded by ornamental grounds. In tlie upper part of the Arm is Melville hland, wliere American prisoners were kept during the War of 1812. Ferguion's Cove is a picturesque village on the N. W. Arm, inhabited chir'iy by fishermen and pilots. The steamer Micmnc makes regular trips during the summer up tho N. W. Arm, and to McNab's Island, which is 8 M. long, and has a sum- mer hotel and some heavy military works. The Micmac leaves tho South Ferry Wharf at 10 A. M. and 12, and 2 and 3 p. m. Dartmouth {Acudian House) is situated on the harbor, opposite the city of Halifax, to which a steam ferry-boat makes frequent trips. It has sev- eral pretty villas belonging to Halifax merchants; and at about i| M. from the village is tho spacious and imposing building of the il/oMn< //ope yl.s^/«»» for the Insane, a long, castellated granite building which overlooks tho harbor. Dartmouth has 4,358 inhabitants and 5 churches, and derives prosperity from the working of several foundries and steam-tanneries. It is also the seat of tho Chebucto Marine Railway. This town was founded in 1750, but was soon afterwards destroyed, with some of its people, by tho Indians. In 1784 it was reoccupied by men of Nantucket who preferred royalism to republicanism. The Montague Gold-Mines are 4 M. from Dartmouth, and have yielded in paying quantities. Cow Bay is a few miles S. E. of Dartmouth, and is much visited in summer, on account of its fine marine scenery and the facilities for batliing. The Dartmouth Lakes com- mence within 1 M. of the town, and were formerly a favorite resort of sportsmen, but are now nearly fished out. 21. The Basin of Mlnas.— Halifax to St. John. Halifax to Windsor, see Route 18 (in reverse). Tlie steamer leaves Windsor every Wednesday at high water, touching at Parrs- boro', and thence running down the Bay to St. John. The steamer leaves St. John (Reed's Point) every Tuesday evening at high water, for Parrsboro' and Windsor. Fares, St. John to Parrshoro' or Windsor, $3; to Londonderry, Maitland, cr Halifax, $4. As the steamer moves out from her wharf at Windsor, a pleasant view is afforded of the old college town astern, with the farming village of Fal- mouth on the 1., and shipbuilding Newport on the r., beyond the mouth of the St. Croix River. The shores are high and ridgy, and the mouth of the Kennetcook River is passed (on the r.) about 5 M. below Windsor. 2-3 M. below is Hantsport (1. bank), a thriving marine village opposite the mouth of the Cockmigon River. On Horton Bluff (1. bank) is a light- house which sustains a powerful fixed white light, visible for 20 M., and beyond this point the steamer enters the * Basin of Minas. On the 1. are the low ridges of Long Island and Boot Island, rising on the margin of a wide and verdant meadow. The meadow is Grand Pr6, the land of Evangeline (see Route 22). ^lilc after mile the fertile plains of Cornwallis J •11 ' ill i;! ^hiU^: •■^t^\' V ; I 102 Rwie21. CAPE BLOMIDON. m open on the 1., bounded by the Horton hills and the dark line of the North Mt. In advance is the bold and clear-cnt outline of Capo Blomidon, brooding over the water, and on the r. are the low but well-defined bluffs of Chivirie, rich in cypsum and limestone. It is about 22 M. from the mouth of the Avon to Pair'^boro', and the course of the steamer continu- ally approaches Blomidon, Cape Blomidon is a yast precipice of red sandstone of the Triassic era, with etroDg marks o*' volcanie action. " The dark bafiltic wall, covered with thick woods, thfi terrace of amygdaloid, with a luxuriant growth of light-green shrubs and young trees that rapidly spring up on its rich and moist surface, the precipice of bright red sandstone, always clean and fresh, and contrasting strongly with the trap above, .... constitute a combination of forms and colors equally striking, if eeon in the distance from the hills of Hoiton or Parrsboro', or more nearly from the sea or the stony beach at its base Llomidon is a scene never to be forgotten by a traveller who has wandered around its shores or clambered on its giddy preci- pices." The cape is about 670 ft. high, and presents an interesting sight when its dark-red summit is peering above the white sea-fogs. Sir William Lyell, the emi- nent British geologist, made a careful study of the phenomena of this vicinity. The Indian legend says that Blnniidon was madt by the divine Glooscap, who broke the giaat beaver-dam off this shore and swung its end around into its present position. Afterwards he crossed to the new-made cape and strewed its slopes with the gems that are found there lo-day, carrying thence a set of rare ornaments for his ancient ?nd mysterious female companion. The beneficent chief broke away the beaver-dam because it was flooding all the Comv ; 'is Valley, and in his conflict with the Great Beaver he threw at him huge masses of rock and earth, which are the present Five Islands. W. of Utkogtinrheech (Blomidon) the end of the dam swept around and became Pleegun (Cape Split). As Blomidon is left on the port beam, the steamer hurries across the rapid currents of the outlet of the Basin. In front is seen the white vil- lage of Parrsboro', backed by the dark undulations of the Cobequid Mts. Just before reaching Parrsboro' the vessel approaches and passes Par- tridge Island (on the 1.), a singular insulated hill 250 ft. high, and con- nected with the mainland at low tide by a narrow beach. Partridge Island was the Pulowech Munegoo of the Micmacs, and was a favorite location for legends of Glooscap. On his last groat journey from Newfoundland by Pictou through Acadia :,;nd into the unknown West, he built a grand road from Fort Cumberland to this shore for the use of his weary companions. This miracu- lously formed ridge is now occupied by the post-road to the N. W\, and is called by the Indians Owu)okun{the causeway). At Partridge Island Glooscap had his cel- ebrated revel with the supernatural Kit-poos-e-ag-unow, the deliverer of all ex- pressed, who was taken out alive from his mother (slain by a giant), was thrown into a well, and, being miraculously preserved there, came forth in due time to fulfil his high duty to men. These marvellous friends went out on the Basin in a stone canoe to fish by torchlight, and, after cruising over the dark waters for some time, speared a monstrous whale. They tossed him into the canoe " as though he were a trout," and made for the shore, where, in their brotherly feast, the whale was en- tirely devoured. Parrsboro' (two inns) is prettily situated at the mouth of a small river, and under the shelter of Partridge Island. It has about 900 inhabitants, ■with three churches, and is engaged in the lumber-trade. The beauty of the situation and the views, together with the sporting facilities in the back-country, nave made Parrsboro' a pleasure resort of considerable re- pute, and the neat hotel called the Summer House is well patronized. This is one of the best points from which to enter the fine hunting and fishing I 0* iUm ^ i;^ PARRSBORO'. Route 21. 103 districts of Cumberland County, and guides and outfits may be secured here. Amherst (see page 78) is 36 JI. distant, by highways following the valleys of the Parrsboro' and Maccau Rivers. " Parrsboro' eiyoys more than its share of broad, gravelly beach j overhung with clifted and woody bluffs. One fresh from the dead walls of a great city would be de- lighted with the sylvan shores of Parrsboro'. The beach, with all its 'jreadth, a miracle of pebbly beauty, slants steeply to the surf, which is now rolling up in curl- ing clouds of green and white. Here we turL westward into the great bay itself, going with a tide that rushes like a mighty river toward a cataract, wliirling, boil- ing, breaking in half-moons of crispy foam." (L. L. Noble.) " Pleasant Parrsboro', with its green hills, neat cottages, and sloping shores laved by the sea when the tide is full, but wearing quite a different asp ct when the tide goes out ; for then it is left perched thirty feet high upon a red clay bluff, and the fishing-boats which were afloat before are careened upon their beam ends, high and dry out of water. The long massive pier at which the steamboat lately landed, lifts up its naked bulk of tree-nailed logs, reeking with green ooze and sea-weed ; and a high conical island which constitutes the chief feature of the landscape is trans- formed into a bold promontory, connected with the mainland by a huge ridge of brick-red clay." (IIallock.) Gentlemen who are interested in geological studies will have a rare chance to make collections about Parrsboro' and the shores of Minas. The most favorable time ia when the bluffs have been cracked and scaled by recent frosts ; or just after the close of the winter, when much fresh debris is found at the foot of the cliffs. Among the minerals on Partridge Island are: analcime, apophyllite, amethyst, agate, ai:iatite, calcite (abundant, in yellow crystals), chabazite, chalcedony, cat's-eye, gypsum, hematite, heulandite, magnetite, sMlbite (very abundant), jasper, cacholong, opal, semi-opal, and gold-bearing quartz. About Cape Blomidon are found analcime, agate, amethyst, apophyllite, calcite, chalcedony, chabazite-gmelinite, farbelitc, hematite, magnetite, heulandite, liiumonitc, fibrous gypsum, malachite, mesolite, native copper, natrolite, stilbite, psilomRlane, and quartz. Obsidian, malachite, gold, and copper are found at Cajje d'Or ; jasper and fine quartz crystals, on Spencer's Island ; augite, amianthus, pyrites, and wad, at Parrsboro' ; and both at Five Islands and Scoi. 'man's Bay there are beautlf 'i specimens of moss agate. At Cornwallis is found the rare mineral called Wichtisite (resembling obsidian, in gray and deep blue colors), which is only known in one other place on earth, at Wichtis, in Fin- land. The purple and violet quartz, or amethyst, of the Minacj shores, is of great beautjr and value. A Blomidon amethyst is in the crown of France, and it is now 270 years since the Sieur de Monts carried several large amethysts from Partridge Island to Henri IV . of France. These gems are generally found iu geodes, or after fresh falls of trap-rock. Advocate Harbor and Cape d' Or, A bi-weekly stage runs W. from Parrsboro' through grand coast scenery, for 28 M., passing the hamlets of Fox Harbor and Port Greville, and stop- ping at Advocate Harbor. This is a sequestered marine hamlet, devoted to shipbuilding and the deep-sea fisheries, aad lias about 600 inhabitants. It is about 60 M. from Amherst, by a road leading across the Cobequid Mts. and through Apple River (see page 80). Some of the finest marine scenery in the Provinces is in this vicinity. 3-4 M. S. is the immense rocky peninsula of * Cape d'Or, almost cut off from the mainland by a deep ravine, in whose bottom the salt tides flow. Cape d'Or is 500 ft. high, and has recently become noted for its rich copper deposits. Off this point there is a heavy rip on the flood-tide, which flows with a velocity of 6 knots an hour, and rises 33 - 39 ft. 8 M. W. of Advocate Harbor, and visible across I ni . litii It I: iii' !■ Pi 1 ill :i \B\ 104 /2oMart, and of delusive views that false friends had instilled into their minds, and tlic imi)ulses of national aud)ition and jealousy prccipitiited their fate. It is, however, some consolatiou to know that very many of the exiles returned within a few years to tlicir native land, and thouph not restored to their native farms, they became an inte;;ral and respected portion of our popula- tion, displaying, under all chanRi^s, those simple virtues that they had inherited, — the same modest, humble, and peaceable disposition, that had been their early attri- butes." (Murdoch.) (Sec also ("lark, Ciiezzetcook, and Tii.xc.vpie.) In 1760 a largo colony of families from Connecticut, in a fleet of 22 vessels con- voyed by a man-of-war, arrived at Grand Pre and occupied the deserted farms. " 'i'hey found GO ox-carts and as many yokes, which the unfortunate French had u.-ed in conveying their baggage to tho vessels that carried them away from tho country ; and at the skirts of the forest heaps of the bones of sheep and horned cat- tic, that, deserted by their owners, had perished in winter from tho lack of food. They also met with a few straggling families of Acadians who had escaped from tho scrutinizing search of tho soldiers at tho removal of their countrymen, and who, afraid of sharing tho same fate, had not ventured to till the land, or to appear in tho open country. They had eaten no bread for llvo years, and had subsisted on vegetables, fish, and tho more hardy part of the cattle that had survived the sever- ity of tho first winter of their abandonment." {IIalibcrton ) " This is tho forest primeval. Tho murmuring pines and the hemlocks, Ueardeil with nioss, and in garments green, indistinct in the twilight, Stand like Druids of eld, with voices s;id and prophetic, Stand like harpers hoar, with beards that rest on their bo.soms. Loud from its rocky caverns, the decp-voiecd neighboring ocean Speaks, and in accents dlscousolatc answers the wail of the forest. " This IS the forest primeval; but where are the hearts that beneath it liOnped like the roe, when he hears in the woodland the voice of tho huntsman? Wh((rc is the thatch-roofed viUage, the home of Acadian farmers, — Men who.se lives glided on like rivers that water tho woodlands, Darkened by shadows of earth, but reflecting an image of heaven? Waste are those pleasant farms, and tho farmers forever departed ! Scattered like dust and leaves, when the mighty blasts of October Seize them, and whirl them aloft, and sprinkle them far o'er the ocean. Naught but tradition remains of the beautiful village of Grand Pr»S. " In the Acadian land, on tho shores of tho Basin of Minas, Distant, secluded, still, the little village of Grand Pr6 Lay in the fruitful valley. Vast meadows stretched to the eastward, Giving tho village its name, and pasture to flocks without number. Dikes, that the hands of the farmers had raised with labor incessant, Shut out tho turbulent tides ; but at certain seasons the flood-gates Opened, and welcomed the sea to wander at will o'er the meadows. West and south there were fields of flax, and orchards and corn-fields Spreading afar and unfencod o'er the plain ; and away to the northward Blomidon rose, and tho forests old, and aloft on the mountains Sea-fogs pitched their tents, and mists from the mighty Atlantic Looked on tho happy valley, but ne'er from their station descended. There, in the midst of its farms, K'posed the Acadian village. Strongly built were the houses, with fr.ames of oak and of chestnut, Such as the peasants of Normandy built in the reign of the Henries. Thatched were the roofs, with dormer-windows ; and gables projecting Over the basement below protected and shaded the doorway. There in tho tranquil evenings of summer, when brightly tho sunset Lighted tho village street, and gilded the vanes on the chimneys, Matrons and maidens sat in snow-white caps and in kirtles Scarlet and blue and green, with distaffs spinning the golden Flax for the gossiping looms, whose noisy Ehuttles within doors Mingled their sound with the whir of the wheels and the songs of the mat lens !• I! 110 R&iUe22. GRAND PRE. \k m rm ' II : m i Solemnly tlown the street cnmc the parish priest, miil the chiUlrcn Pauwd in tluir piny to kiss the hand he extended to bless thfni. Revenfnd walked he among them ; nnd up rose mtttrons nnd maidens, Hailing his slow approach with words of alTectionatc welcome. Then came the laborers home from the field, and i-ereneiy the sun Bank Pown to his rest, and twilight prevailed. Anon from the belfry Softly the Angelas sounded, and over the roofs of the village Columns of pale blue smoke, like clouds of incense ascending, Rose from a hundred hearths, the homes of jieaco and contentment. Thus dwelt together in l(t%e tliesc simple Acadian farmers, — Dwelt in the love of Ood and of man. Alike were they free from Fear, that reigns with the tyrant, and envy, the vice of republics. Neither locks had they to their doors, nor bars to their windows ; But their dwellings were open as day and the hearts of the owners ; There the richest was poor, iiiiJ the poorest lived in abundance." The poet then describes " the gentle Kvanf^ ",, the pride of the vil- lage." " Fair was she to behold, that maiden of seventeen summers, Black were her eyes as the berry that grows on the thorn by the wayside, Black, yet how softly they gleamed beneath the brown shade of her tresses ! Sweet was her breath as the breath of kine that feed in the meadows. When in the harvest heat she bore to the reapers at noontide Flagons of home-browed ale, ah ! fair in sooth was the maiden. Fairer was she when, on Sunday mom, while the bell from its turret Sprinkled with holy sounds the air, as the priest with his hyssop Sprinkles the congregation, and scatters blessings upon them. Down the long street she passed, with lier chaplet of beads and her missal, Wearing her Norman cap, and her kirtle of blue, and the ear-rings, — Brought in the olden time from France, and since, as an heirloom, Handed down from mother to child, through long generations. But a celestial brightness — a more ithereal beauty — Shone on her face and encircled her form, when, after confession. Homeward serenely she walked, with God's benediction upon her. When she had passed, it seemed like the ceasing of exquisite music." After a beautiful description of the peaceful social Hfe of the Acadians, nnd the betrothal of Evangeline, the poet tells of the arrival of the English fleet, the convocation of the people, the royal mandate, the destruction of Grand Pr^, and the weary exile of the villagers. " So passed the morning away. And lo ! with a summons sonorous Sounded the bell from its tower, and over the meadow a drum beat. Thronged erelong was the church with men. Without, in the churchyard. Waited the women. They stood by the graves, and hung on the headstones Garlands of autumn-leaves and evergreens fresh from the forest. Then came the guard from the ships, and marching proudly among them Entered the sacred portal. With loud and dissonant clangor Echoed the sound of their brazen drums from ceiling and casement, — J^choeti a moment only, and slowly the ponderous portal Closed, and in silence the crowd awaited the will of the soldiers. Then uprose their commander, and spake from the steps of the altar, Holding aloft in his hands, with its seals, the royal commission. ' Ye are convened this day,' he said, ' by his Majesty's orders. Clement and kind has he been ; but how have you answered his kindness, Let your own hearts reply I To my natural make and my temper Painful the task is I do, which to you I know must be grievous. Yet must I bow and obey, and deliver the will of our monarch ; Namely, that all your lands, and dwellings, and cattle of all kinds Forfeited be to the crown ; and that you yourselves from this province Be transported to other lands. God grant you may dwell there Ever as faithful subjects, a hap],y and peaceable people ! Prisoners now I declare you ; for such is his Majesty's pleasure.' .. •f* tvss GRAND PR^. Route 22. Ill nk the vil- 'ide, resses ! lissal, Lcndians, i English iction of yard, stones cm 388, There disorder prevailed, and the tumult and «tlr of embarking. Busily plied tht! Treighted boatfl ; and in the odnfiisioii Wives were torn from tlieir luishaiidH.aiid niotlu-r.-i, too late, «ow their children Left on the land, extending tlieir armx, with wildoHt entreutieH. Suddenly rose from the south a llRht, as in autumn the Mood-red Moon cliuiba the crystal walls of heaven, and o'er the horizon Titan-like stretches its hundred hands upon mountain and meadow, Seizing the rocks and the rivers, and piling huge shadows together. Broader and ever broader it gleamed on the roofs of the village, Gleamed on the sky and the sea, and the ships that lay in the roadstead. Columns of shining smoke uprose, and flashes of flame wero Thrust through their folds and withdrawn, like the quivering hands of a martyr. Then as the wind scixed the giecds and the burning thatch, and uplifting, Whirled them aloft through Hie air, at once from a hundred house-tops Started the dhceted smoke, ith flashes of flame intermingled. Many a weary year had passed since the burning of Grand Prd, When on the falling tide the freighted vessels departed. Bearing a nation, with all its household gods, into exile, Exile without an end, and without an example in story. Far asunder, on separate coasts, the Acadians landed ; Scattered were they, like flakes of snow, when the wind from the northeast Strikes aslant through the fogs that darken the Banks of Newfoundland. friendless, liomeless, hopeless, they wandered from city to city, From the cold lakes of the North to .sultry Southern savannas, — From the bleak shores of the sea to the lands where the Father of Waters Seizes tlie hills in his hands, and drags them down to the ocean, Deep in their sands to bury the scattered bones of the mammoth. Friends they sought and homes ; and many, despairing, lieart-broken, Asked of the earth but a grave, and no longer a friend or a fireside. Written their history stands on tablets of stone in the churcliyards." Longfellow's Evangeline. •' Much as we may admire the various bays and lakes, the inlets, promontories, and straits, the mountains and woodlands of this rarely visited corner of creation, — and, compared with it, we can boast of no coast scenery so beautiful, — the valley of Grand Pre transcends all the rest in the Province. Only our valley of Wyoming, as an inland picture, may match it, both in beauty and tradition. One had its Ger- trude, the other its Evangeline. " (Cozzens. ) " Beyond is a lofty and extended chain of hills, presenting a vast chasm, appar- ently burst out by the waters of 19 rivers that empty into the Basin of Minas, and hero escape into the Bay of Fundy. The variety and extent of this prospect, the beauti- ful verdant vale of the Gaspereaux ; the extended township of Ilorton interspersed with groves of wood and cultured fields, and the cloud-capped summit of the lofty cape that terminates the chain of the North Mt.,form an assemblage of objects rarely united with so striking an effect." " It would be difficult to point out another landscape at all equal to that which is beheld from the hill that overlooks the site of the ancient village of Minas. On either hand extend undulating hills richly cultivated, and intermingled with farm- houses and orchards. From the base of these highlands extend the alluvial mead- ows which add so much to the appearance and wealth of Ilorton. The Grand Prairie is skirted by Boot and Long Islands, whose fertile and well-tilled fields are sheltered from the north by evergreen forests of dark foliage. Beyond are the wide expanse of waters of the Basin of Minas, the lower part of Cornwallis, and the isles and blue highlands of the opposite shores. The charm of this prospect consists in the unusual combination of hill, dale, woods, and cultivated fields ; in the calm beauty of agricultural scenery ; and in the romantic wildness of the distant forests. During the summer and autumnal months immense herds of cattle are seen quietly cropping the herbage of the Grand Prairie ; while numerous vessels plying on the Basin convey a pleasing evidence of the prosperity and resources of this fertile dis- trict." (H.UI3UET0N.) 112 Route 23. ST. MARY'S BAY. I?!-h. M !'■ I w •'■M v. 23. Annapolis Royal to Clare and Yarmouth. — The Tus- ket Lakes. From St. John or Halifax to Annapolis Royal, see Route 18. The Western- Coutnirs Hnilu'rii/ was be^run in September, 1874, and is to be finished from Yarmouth to Mcteghan (;}»» M.) by the_Mimnier of 1875. It will not reach An- napolis before the latter part of the year 187tj. The Iioyul mail-stjige leaves Annapolis daily on arrival of the morninR train from Halifax, and runs S. W. to Clementsport and Digby (distance, 20^ M. ; fare, $ 1.50). A pleasanter route is to go from .\iinapolis to Digby by the steamboat {1m'. ; sec page 85), which makes four trips weekly. On boat-days the stage leaves Digby for Yarmouth about one hour after her arrival ; on othcrdays it Ivavesat G p. m. Digby to Yarmouth, 70 M. ; fare, S 4. Itinerary. — Annapolis Koyal ; Clementsport, 8^ M. : Victoria Bridge, ISJ ; Smith's Cove, 1(J; Digby, 20 .V ; St. Mary-s Bay,27J; Weymouth Road. 32; Wey- mouth Bridge, 38 ; Belliveau Cove, 43 ; Clare, 50: Bleteghan Cove, 59; Cheticamp, 6C ; rear River, 74 ; Yarmouth Lakes, 81 ; Yarmouth, 90. The traveller will see from the time-table that this is a night-journey , and the return from Yarmouth to Digby is also efToctcd by night. The ensuing descriptions, there- fore, .vill bo useful only to such as stop off at some of the roadside villages, or make the journey in their own carriages, by daylight. Aniinpolis Royal to Higby, soo pages 84, 85 (reverjscd). On leaving Digby the stage follows the highway to the S. W., traversing the farming settlement of Marshalltown, and cresses the isthmus between the Annapolis Basin and St. Mary's Bay, a distance of about 7 M. Thence- forward, for over 30 M., the highway lies near the beautiful *St. Mary's Bay, which is about 35 M. long, with a width of from 3 to 10 M. On the opposite shore are the higliland.s of Digby Neck (see Route 24), a continu- ation of the North Mt. range. On this shore a wide belt of level land has been left between the receding range of the South Mt. (or Blue Mts.) and the bay, and the water-front is occupied by numerous farms. In St. Mary's Bay the fleet of the S'-ui de Slonts lay for two weeks, in 1G04, while the shores were being explored by boafs-crews. The mariners were greatly rejoiced in finding what they s;ipposcd to be valuable deposits of iron and silver. The Parisian priest Aubry was lost on one of these excursions, and roamed through the woods for 10 days, eating nothing uut berries, until auother vessel took him off. The name Bale de Ste. Mark \:vi& given !•; Champlain. Bn(jhto7i is at the head of th.e baj', nnd is a pleasant agricultural village with a small inn. The hamlets of Barton (or Spcch^'s Cove) and GUberVs Cove are soon passed, and the stage enters tiie pretty village of Weymouth (two inns), a seaport which builds some handsome vessels, and has a snug little trade with the United States and the West Indies. It is at the mouth of the Sissiboo River, on whose oi)posite shore is the Acadian hamlet of New Edinburyh. Across St. ihiry's Bay is the maritime village of SiiiuJij Cove. The stage now ascends the r. bank of the Sissiboo River to Weymouth Br'uhje (Jones's Hotel), a maritime village of about the same size as Wey- mouth. Jt is 4 M. from tiie mouth of the river; and 2-3 M. to the K. are the Sissiboo Falls. The shore of St. Mary's Bay is regained at Bi^lli- t'cau Cove (small iuu), an Acadiuu Lauilut chieOy devoted to agriculture ^1 CLAEE. Route 23. 113 e Tus- ain from 1.50). y this new line of t- ivel. "Yarmouth'? financial success is due largely to the practical judgment and sagacity of her mariners. She has reared nn army of shipmasters of whom any country might be proud,"' and it is claimed that a large proportion of the Cape-Ann fishing-captains are nati^'es of this country. On the adjacent coast, and within 12 >I. of Yarmouth, are the marine hamlets of Jegoggin, Sandford (Cranberry Head), Arcadia, Hebron, Hartford, Kelley's Cove, Jebogue, Darling's Lake (Short Iteach), and Dcerfield. These settlements have over 6,000 inhabititnts In the aggregate. The coast was occupied by the French during the 17th century, but was afterwards abandoned. About the middle of the last century these de- serted shores were tsiken possession of by colonies of fishermen from Massachusetts and Connecticut, wlin wished to be nearer their fishing-grounds; and the present population is descended from these hardy men and the Loyalists of 1783. The an- cient Indian name of Yarmouth was Keexpongwitk, which means " Land's End." The steamship IJnrfn leaves Yarmouth for Doston every Satui'duy, and for St. Johr., M. B., every Thursday. 5n TUSKET LAKES. Route 23. 115 ement, stage [kville) I of 400 Head. |ough a ieaver The TusJcet Lakes ami Archipelago. The township of Yarmouth contains 80 lakes, and to a bird flying overhead it must sconi like a patchwork of blue and green, in which the blue predominates. They are nearly all connected with the Tusket River, and are generally small, very irregular, and surrounded by young forests. They rarely attain the width of 1 M., and arc strung along the course of the river and its tributaries, joined by narrow aisles of water, and breaking off into bays which the unguided voyager would often ascend in mistake for the main channel lu the lower lakes, where the tide flows, near Argyle IJay, are profitable eel-fisheries. The remoter waters, towards the Blue Mts., afford good trout-fishing. Tlie westerly line of lakes are visited from Yarmouth by riding 5 JI. out on the Digby road and then turning off to Deerfield, near the Salmon-River Lakes, or passing over to the settlement at Lake George (12-14 M. from Yarmouth), which is 1^ ^I. wide and 3 -4 M. long, and is the largest lake in the township. A little farther N. is the Acadian settlement at Cedar Lake. The best route for the sportsman is to follow the Barrington telegraph- road 10 M. N. E. to Tusket (two inns), a large and prosperous shipbuild- ing village, with three churches, near the head of ship-navigation on the Tusket River. The scenery in this vicinity is picturesque, its chief feature benig the many green islands off the shores; and the river has been famous for fisheries of salmon and gaspercaux, now impaired by the lumber-mills above. From this point a chain of lakes ascends to the N. for 20 M., in- cluding the central group of the Tuskets, and terminating at the island- strewn L'lke Wentworth. The best place is found by following the road ■wiiich runs N. E. 15-18 M., between Vaughan Lake and Butler's Lake, and by many lesser ponds, to the remote settlement of A'e»n/j< (small hotel), near the head-waters of the central and western groups. To the N. and E. of this point are the trackless forests and savage ridges of the Blue Mts., and the hunter can traverse these wilds for 40 M. to the N. E. (to the Liv- erpool Lakes), or .'or 30 M. to the S. E (to the Shelburne settlements), witliout meeting any permanent evidences of civilization. The ancient Indian tradition tells that squirrels were once very numerous in this region, and gn!W to an enormous size, endangering the lives of men. Hut tlie Great Sjiirit once appeared to a blameless i)atriarcli of the Micuiacs, and offered to reward his virtue by granting his utmost desire. After long meditation the chief asked the Divine Visitor to bless the land by taking the power from the mighty bquirrels, upon wliich the mandate was issued and the dreaded animals shrank to their present in- significant size. And hence it is known that ever since that day the squirrel has been querulous at the sight of man. This groat forest was formerly the paradise of moose-hunters, but is now closed to that sport by the recent I'rovinrial law which forbids the killing of moose for the next three years. Poaching is, of course, qnito possible, since the forest cannot be studded with game-keepers ; but men of culture and foresight will doubtless approve the action of the government, and will abstain from illegally pursuing this noble game, which must be* onie extinct in a very few years unless carefully protected. S. of Tusket village are the beautiful groups of the Tusket Isles, stud- ding the '.valors of Argyle Bay and the Abuptic Harbor. Like most other collections of islands on this continent, they are popularly supposed to be 1 * ■* ■- t : 116 Route U- DIGBY NECK. 1 i ■it ' Im I ^1 365 in number, though they do not claim to possess an intercalary islet like that on Lake George (New York), which appears only every fourth year. The Tuskets vary in size from Morris Island, -which is 3 M. long, down to the smallest tuft-crowned rocks, and afford a great diversity of scenery. The outer fringe of the archipelago is threaded by the Halifax and Yarmouth steamship (see page 125). "The scenery of Argyle Bay is extremely beautiful of its kind; innumerable islantls and peninsulas enclose the water in every direction Cottages and cul- tivated laud break the masses of forest, and the masts of small fishing-vessels peep- iii}? up from every little cove attest the multiplied resources which Nature has pro- vided for the supply of the inhabitants." (Capt. Moorson.) Among these narrow passes hundreds of Acadians took refuge during the persecu- tions of 1758 - GO. A British frigate was sent down to hunt them out, but one of her boats' crews was destroyed by the fugitives among the islands, and they were not di-slodged. There are now two or three hamlets of Acadians in the region of the upper lakes. [The Editor deprecates the meagreness of the foregoing account of the Tusket Lakes. It was too late in the season, when lie arrived at Yarmouth, to make the tour of this district, and the landlord of the United States Hotel, the best authority on the sporting tacilities of the lake-country, was then attending a party of Boston sportsmen among the Blue Mts. The foregoing statements about the district, though obtained from the best accessible sources of information, are therefore given under reserve ; and it would be best for gentlemen who wish to summer among the Tuskets to make inquiries by letter of the proprietor of the United States Hotel, Yarmouth, N. S.] 24. Digby Neck. Tri-weekly stages leave Digby for this remote corner of Nova Scotia. Fare to Sandy Cove, S 1.50 ; to West Tort, $ 2. Distances. — I)igby to Rossway, 8|^ M. ; Waterford,12; Centreville, 15 ; Lake- side, 17 ; Sandy Cove, 20 ; Little lliver, 25 ; Petite Passage, 30 ; Free Port ; West Port, 40. The stage runs S. W. from Digby, leaving the settlements of Marshall- town and Brighton on the 1., across the Smelt River. The first hamlet reached is Rossway, whence a road crosses to Gulliver's Cove on the Bay of Fundy. For over 20 M. the road descends the remarkable peninsula of Digby Neck, whose average width, from bay to bay, is about 1 J M. On the 1. is the continuous range of dark hills which marks the W. end of the North Mt. range, where it is sinking towards the sea. Among these hills are found fine specimens of agate and jasper, and the views from their summits (when not hidden by trees) reveal broad and brilliant stretches of blue water on either side. Fogs ai*e, however, very prevalent here, and are locally supposed to be rather healthy than otherwise. On the 1. of the road are the broad w-aters of St. Mary's Bay, far beyond which are the low and rugged Blue Mts. Sandy Cove (small inn) is the metropolis of Digby Neck, and has 400 inhabitants and two churches. Its people live by farming and fishing, and support a fortnightly packet-boat to St. John, N. B. 4 M. S. E., across St. Marj''s Bay, is the port of Weymouth (see page 112). Beyond Little River village the stage crosses the ridge, and the passenger passes mun i ^> \ NOVA-SCOTIA COAST. Route S5. 117 slct irth iecu- fher not the ^tfl 4R!n the Petite Passage^ which separates Digby Neck from Lonj; Island. This strait is quite deep and 1 M. wide, and has a red-and-white flashing light on its N. W. point (Boar's Head). On the opposite shore of the passage is a village of 390 inhabitants (mostly fishermen), and the stage now runs down Long Island on the Bay of Fundy side. If there is no fog the view across the bay is pleasing, and is usually enlivened by the sails of passing vessels. Long Island is about 10 M. long, and 2 M. wide, and its village of Free Port has 700 inhabitants. Near the end of Long Island another ferry-boat is taken, and the trav- eller crosses the Grand Passage to West Port {Denton's Hotel), a village of 600 inhabitants, most of whom are fishermen, shipbuilders, or sea- captains. This town is on Brier Island, the S. E. portal of the Bay of Fundy, and is 5 M. long by 2 M. wide. On its E. side are two fixed white lights, and on the W. are a fog-whistle and a powerful white light visible for 15 M. 25. Hali&z to YarmoutL— The Atlantic Coast of Nova Scotia. The steamers M. A. Starr and Edgar Stuart, of Fishwick's Express Line, ply along the coast of Nova Scotia. One of them leaves Halifax for Yarmouth on Tuesday, at 6 A. m. ; leaving Yarmouth on Thursday, at 9 A. M. (There is also a possibility that a vessel of this line will ply dur- ing the present summer between Halifax, Cape Canso, Guysborough, Port Hastings, Port Mulgrave, and Antigonish.) Fares. — Halifax to Lunenburg, $2; to Liverpool, $3.50; to Shelbume, S 4-50 ; to Yarmouth, ^6. Lunenburg to Liverpool, $3; to Shelbume, $3-50; to Yar- mouth, $4.50. Liverpool to Shelbume, $2; to Yarmouth, $3.50. Shelbume to Yarmouth, $2.50. Berths arc included in these price?, but the meals are extra. "The Atlantic coast of Nova Scotia, from Cape Canso to Cape Sable, is pierced with innumerable small bays, harbors, and rivers. The shores are lined with rocks and thousands of islands ; and although no part of the country can properly be con- sidered mountainous, and there are but few steep high cliffs, yet the aspect of the whole, if not romantically sublime, is exceedingly picturesque ; and the scenery, in many places, is richly beautiful.. The landscape which the head of Mahone Kay, in particular, presents can scarcely be surpassed." (M'Gregor's British Amerirn.) '• The jagged outline of this coast, as seen upon the map, reminds us of the equally indented Atlantic shores of Scandinavia ; and the character of the coast as he sails along it — the rocky surface, the scanty herbage, and the endless pine forests — re- call to the traveller the ap]warance and natural productions of the same European country." (Peop. Johnston.) The steamer passes down Halifax Harbor (see page 93), and gains the open sea beyond Chebucto Head and the lighthouse on Samhro Island. She usually makes a good ofling before turning down the coast, in order to avoid the far-reaching and dangerous Sambro Ledges. W. of the open light of Pennant Bay is Mars Head, on whose fatal rocks the ocean steam- ship Atlantic was wrecked. ]18 Rente 25. LUNENBURG. ■III ■'i m This line of coast has been famous for its marine disasters. In 1779 the Britif^h var-vesfcla AV//i and Helena vere wrecked near Sanibro, and 170 men wore dro>¥nid. Mars Head derives its name from the fact that the British line-of-battle ship Marx, 70 guns, was wrcclced upon its blacli ledges. In 1779 the American war-vessel Viper, 22, attacked II. M. S. Resolution, just off Sambro, and captured her after a long and desperate battle, in which both ships were badly cut to pieces. Caiie Sambro was named by tlse mariners of St. Malo early in the 17th century ; and it is thought that the i)ref-ent form of the name is a corruption of SC. Cendre, the original designation. The ancient Latin book called the Nnvus Orbis (published by Elzevir; Amsterdam, IC.3.3) says that the islands between Cape Sambro (SeMwibre) and Mahonc Bay were called the ilartyrs' Isles, on account of the Frenchmen who had there been uias- eacred by the heathen Indians. Royotifl Cape Prospect the deep Indentations of St. Margaret's Bay and Mahono Bay make in on tlie N., and " breezy Aspotofton Lifts high its summit blue." The roughest water of the voyage is usually found while crossing the openings of these bays. The course is hiid for Cross Island, where tlicro are two lights, one of which is visible for 14 M. Passing close in by this island, the steamer enters that prett}'' bay which was formerly knoAvn to the Indians as Mahtgnsh, or " Milky," on account of the whiteness of its stormy surf. At the head of this bay the white and compact town of Lunenburg is seen between two round green hills. The steamer passes around the outermost of these, and enters the snug little harbor. " The town of Lunenburg is situated at the innermost extremity of a peninsula, and to a military traveller presents a more formidable asix-ct than any other in Nova Scotia, the upper houses being placed on the crests of steep glacis slopes, so as to bear upon all approaches." (Capt. Mooeson.) Lunenburg {Kiny's Hotel) is a thriving little seaport, situated on a se- cure and spacious har})or, and enjoying a lucrative West-India trade. Together with its immediate environs, it has 3,231 inhabitants, of whom over half are in the port itscl!'. The German character of the citizens is still retained, though not so covnpletely as in their rural settlements; and the principal churches are Lutheran. The public buikiings of Lunenburg County are located here. A large trade in lumber and fi.sh is carried on, iu addition to the southern exports. Thero are numerous farming communi- ties of Germanic origin in the vicinity; and the shore-roads exhibit al- tractive phases of marine scenery. 7 M. distant is the beautifully situated village of Mahone Bay (see Route 26) ; 4 M. distant are the remarkable sea- side ledges called the Blue Rocks; to the S. E. is the rural settlement of Lunenburg Peninsula, off which are the sea-girt farms of Heckman's Island ; .ind 12 M. distant is the gold district of The Ocens. This site was anciently occupied by the Indian village of Malagash. Tn 1745 the British government issued a proclamation inviting German Protestants to emigrate to Nova Scotia and take up its unoccupied lands Tn 1753, 200 families of Germans and Swiss settleil nt Lunenburg, and were provided with farming implements and three years' provisions by the government. They fortified their new domains as well as possible, but many of the people were killed by Indians lurking in the woods. The settlement was thus held in cheek until after the Conquest of Canada, when the Indians ceased hostilities. In 1777 the town was attacked by two American jrivu- tf^i I piled. lars, Jfiper, ■ niid i was thnt |tion. Inm, I were luias- and IRONBOUND ISLAND. Route 25. 119 tpcrs, who landed detachments of armed men and occupied the principal buildings. After plundering the pluce and securing a valuable booty, these unwelcome visitors sailed away rejoicing, leaving Lunenburg to put on the robes of war and anxiously yearn for iinother naval attack, for whose reception spirited provisions were made. ' Among tlie people throughout this county German customs are still preserved, as at weddings and funerals ; the German language is spoken ; and sermons are deliv< ered oftentimes in the same tongue. The cows are mude to do service in ploiighing, and the farming implements are of a primitive pattern. A large portion of the out- door work in the fields is done by the women, who are generally strong and muscular. The steamer leaves Lunenburg Harbor, passes Battery Point and its lighthouse on the 1., and (Jesccnds between the knob-like hills of the outer harbor. On the r. are the shores of the remarkable peninsula of The Ovens (distant from Lunenburg, by road, 10 - 12 M.). The low cliffs along this shore ai*e pierced by numerous caverns, three of which are 70 ft. wide at their mouths and over 200 ft. deep. The sea daslies into these dark recesses during a heavy swell with an amazing roar, broken by deep booming reverberations. Certain fc.itures in the formation of these caves have led to the supposition that they were made by human labor, though the theorists do not state the probable ol)jcct for which they were exca- vated. \n 1861 gold was discovered on tlie Ovens peninsula, and 2,000 ounces were obtained during tliat autumn, since which the mining fever has subsided, and no earnest work has been done here. The precious metal was obtained chiefly by washing, and but little was effected in the way of quartz-crushing. Beyond Ovens Head the pretty circular indentation of Rose Bay ia seen on the r., on whose shores is a settlement of 250 German farmers. The steamer now passes between Cross Island (1.) and Rose Head, which are about 2 M. apart, and enters the Atlantic. When a sufficient ofling has been made, the course is laid S. W. <^ W. for 8^ M. Point Enragd is soon passed, and then the vessel approaches ^Ironbound Island. This re- markable rock is about ^ M. long, and rises from the sea on all sides in smooth curves of dark and iron-like rock, on which the mighty surges of the Atlantic are broken into great sheets of white and hissing foam. Upon this dangerous outpost of Nova Scotia there is a revolving light, which is visible for 13 M. Beyond Irontound, on the r., is seen the deep estuary of the Lahave River, which is navigable to Bridgewater, a distance of 13 M., passing for 12 M. through the hamlets of New Dublin, and thence through a valley between high and knob-like hills. At Fort La Ileve in 1636-7, died Isaac de Razilly, " Knight Commander of the Order of St. John of Jerusalem, Lieutenant-General of Acatlio, and Captain of the West." lie was a relative of Cardinal Richelieu, and had fought in the campaigns of La RochcUe and the coast of Morocco. In 1642 D'Aulnay purchased these do- mains from Claude de Razilly, but soon evacuated the place, removing the people to Port Royal. Ry 1654 the colony had recovered it.self, having *' undoubtedly tho best port and the best soil in the whole country." It was then attacked by tho Sieur le Borgne, who burned all its houses and tlie chapel. At a later day the new Fort I^ IIC'vc was attacked by a strong force of New-England troops, who were beaten off several times with tlie loss of some of their best men. But the brave Frenclnnen were finally forced to surrender, and the place was reduced to ruins. In 1705 the settlement was again destroyed by Boston privateers. 120 Route 25. LIVERPOOL. !■ : f • s !'! in 'i- ■ When off Capo Lahave the steamer takes a coarse W. by S., which is followed for 15§ M. The fishing hamlet of Broad Cove is on the shore S. W. of Cape Lahave; and when about 9 M. from the cape, the entrance of Port Medway is seen. This harbor is 4 M. long and 1^ M. wide, and receives the waters of the Port Medway and Pedley Rivers. Port Med- way (Dunphy's Hotel) is on its W. shore, and has 600 inhabitants, who are engaged in shipbuilding and lumbering. The steamer soon rounds the revolving red light (visible 16 M.) on Cof- fin's Island, and turns to the N. W. up Liverpool Bay. The shores are well inhabited, with the settlement of Moose Harbor on the 1., and Brook- lyn (or Herring Cove) on tlie r. The lighthouse on Fort Point is rounded and the vessel enters the mouth of the Liverpool River, Avith a line of wharves on the 1., and the bridge in advance. Liverpool ( Village Green Hotel, a comfortable summer-house ; and two other inns) is a flourishing seaport with 3,102 inhabitants, 5 churches, a weekly paper, and a bank. Its principal industries are lumbering, fish- ing, and shipbuilding. The town occupies the rocky shore at the mouth of the Liverpool River, and its streets are adorned with numerous large shade trees. Many summer visitors come to this place, either on account of its own attractions, or to seek the trout on the adjacent streams and lakes (see Route 27). There are pleasant drives also on the Mill- Village Road, and around the shores of the bay. Liverpool occupies the site of the ancient Indian domain of Ogumkegfok, made classic in the traditions of the Micmacs by the celebrated encounter which took place here between the divine Glooscap (see page 106) and the great sorceress of the Atlantic coast. The struggle of craft and malevolence against superior power arc quaintly narrated, though taking forms not pleasing to refined minds, and the con- test end.s in the defeat of the hag of Ogumkegeo/e, who is rent in pieces by the hunting-dogs of Glooscap. In May, 1604, the harbor of Liverpool was entered by Pierre du Guast, " Sieur do Monts of Samtonge, Gentleman in Ordinary of the Chamber, and Governor of Pons," who had Eecut^d a monopoly of the fur-trade between 40° and 54° N. latitude. He found a ship here trading without authority, and confi.<;cated her, naming the har- bor Port Rossignol, after her captain, " as though M. de Mont,<< had wished to make ■ome compensation to the man for the loss he inflicted on him, by immortalizing his name." This designation did not hold to the harbor, but has been transferred to the large and beautiful lake near the head-waters of the Liverpool River. About 1634 a shore-fishery was established here by M. Denys and Gov. Razilly. This enterpri.se was for a long time successful, but was finally crippled by the cap- ture of its heavily laden freigh ting-ship by the Portuguese. Soon afterward Denys was forced to leave Port Rossignol on account of the machinations of D'Aulnay Charnisay, and the settlement was broken up. IJy the year 1760 a thriving village Btood on this site, and in the War of 1812 many active privateers were fitted out here. In 1832 the port owned 25,000 tons of shipping. On leaving Liverpool Bay the steamer rounds Western Head and runs S. W. i S. 14 M. On the r. is the deep embayment of Port Mouton, partly sheltered by Mouton Island, and lighted by a fixed red light on Spectacle Island. At its head is the farming and fishing settlement of Port Mouton, with 350 inhabitants. This inlet was visited by the ex- ploring ship of the Sieur de Monts in 1604, and received the name which + tmn ch is ihoro 'ance and Med- who T SHELBURNE. Route 25. 121 it still bears because a sheep here leaped from the deck into the bay and was drowned. The shores were settled in 1783 by the disbanded veterans of Tarleton's Legion, who had done such valiant service in the Carolinas. In July, 1622, Sir William Alexander's pioneer-ship entered Port Mouton, " and discovered three very pleasant harbors and went aj»liore in one of them, which, after the ship's name, they called Luke's Bay, whore they found, a great way up, a very pleasant river, being three fathoms deep at the entry thereof, and on every side of the same they did see very delicate meadows, having Roses white and red growing thereon, with a kind of white Lily, which had a dainty smell." These shores, which were hardly so fair as the old mariner painted them, were soon occupied by a French post, after whose destruction they remained in solitude for over a century. On Little Hope Island is a revolving red light, beyond which the steamer runs W. S. W. 15 M. ; then Port Joli opens to the N. W., on which is a fishing-village of 200 inhabitants. About 3 ^I. beyond is Port Herbert, a deep and narrow estuary with another maritime hamlet. Farther W. is the mouth of Sable River ; but the steamer holds a course too far out to distinguish much of these low shores. 3i ^L N. is Ram Island, W. of which are the ledges off Ragged Island Harbor, at whose head is a village of 350 inhabitants. On the W. side of the harbor is Lockers Island (two inns), a prosperous little port of 400 inhabitants, whence the West-India trade and the Bank fisheries are carried on. During the season of 1874 70,000 quintals of fish (valued at $ 250,000) were exported from this point. On Carter's Island is a fixed red light, and the sea-swept ledge of Gull Rock lies outside of the harbor, and has a powerful white light. Beyond Western Head the steamer runs across the wide estuaries of Green Harbor and the Jordan River, on whose shores are four maritime hamlets. The course is changed to N. W. i N., and Bony's and Government Points are passed on the r. On the 1. Cape Roseway is approached, on which are two fixed white lights, visible for 10 and 18 M., standing in a black-and- white striped tower. Passing between Surf Point and Sand Point the ves- sel turns N. by E., leaving Birchtown Bay on the 1., and runs up to Shel- burne. The last few miles are traversed between the picturesque shores of a bay which an enthusiastic mariner has called " the best in the world, except the harbor of Sydney, in Australia." Shelburne {Port Roseicay House ; Enr/Ksh and American Hotel) is the cap- ital of Slielburne County, and has over 1,000 inhabitants and 5 churches. It is engaged chiefly in fishing and shipbuilding, and excels in the latter branch of business. The harbor is 9 M. long and 1-2 M. wide, and has 5-7 fathoms of water, without any shoals or flats. It is completely land- locked, but can never attain any commercial importance, owing to the fact that it is frozen solid during the winter, there being no river currents or strong tides to agitate the water. There are granite-ledges near the village, and the Roseway River empties into the bay 1 M. distant. Birch- town is 5 M. from Shelburne, and is at the head of a branch of the bay. It is inhabited by the descendants of the negro slaves brought from Mary- land and Virginia by the Loyalist refugees, in 1783. The country back a i.lu 122 Route 25. PORT LATOUR. .«. ' of Slielbnrnc is unimproved, and the roads pooh tcnnimito in tlie grent for- ests nbout the Blue Mts. Stapes run from this town E. and W. Fares, Shelburne to Liverpool, $2.50; to Barrington, $1.50; to Yarmouth, $4. " The town of Shelburne is fsituated at the N. extremity of a beautiful inlet, 10 M, in longtli and 2-8 M in breadth, in whicli tlie wliole royal navy of Great Britain might lie roinpletoly landloclced." In 1783 largo iiumhurs of American Loyalists ecttled iierc, hoping to cre<'t a great city on this unrivalled harbor. They brought their servants and equijinges, and established a cultured metropolitan society. Shel- liurnc Foon ran ahead of Halifax, and measures were talicn to transfer the seat of povernnient here. Within one year the primeval forest was replaced by a city of 12,0<)0 inhabitants (of wlioni 1,200 were negroes). The obscure hamlet which had been founded liero (under the name of New .Icrusalem) in 17G4 was replaced by a metropolis ; ond Gov. Parr soon entered the bay on the frigate La Sophie, amid the roaring of saluting batteries, and named the new city Shelburne. Hut the place had no rural back-country to supply and bo enriched by ; and the colonists, mostly patricians from the Atlantic cities, could not and would not engage in the fisheries. Tlio money which they had brouglit from their old homes was at last exhausted, and then " Shelburne dwindled into insignificance almost as rapidly as it had risen to notoriety." Many of its people returned contritely to the United States; and the population here soon sank to 400. " It is only tlic sight of a few large storehou.«es, with decayed timbers and window-frames, standing near the wharves, that will leod lilm to conclude that tlio,«c wharves must once have teemed with sliipmasters and sailors. The streets of the town arc changed into avenues bounded b\ stone fences on either side, in which ptrass plants contest the palm of supremacy with stones." Within two years over § 2,500,000 were sunk in the founding of Shelburne. The steamer leave.s Shelburne by the same course on which she entered, with the stunted forests of ^IcNutt's Island on the r. Rounding Cape Jioseway within 1 M. of the lights, she runs down by Gray's Island, pass- ing Round Bay and the hamlet of Black Point, on the bold headland of the same name. Negro Island is then seen on the r., and is occupied by a population of fishermen; while its N. E. point has a powerful red-and- white flashing light. Inside of this island is the broad e.stuary of the Clj'de River, and near by is the large and picturesque fishing-village of Cape Negro. Cape Negro was so named by Champlain, in 1G04, " on account of a rock which at a distance resembles one." The steamer then passes the Salvage Rocks, o(T Blanche Island (Point Jefl'reys), and opens the broad bay of Port Latour on the N. W. This haven was the scene of stirring events during the 17th century, and the remains of the fort of Claude do la Tour are still visible here. " Claude Turgis de St. Estienne, Sleur de la Tour, of the province of Champagne, quitted Paris, taking with him his son Charles Amador, then 14 years old, to settle in Acadia, near Poutrincourt, who was then engaged in founding Port Royal." 17 years afterwards, Charles succeeded to the government on the death of liiencourt, Poutrincourt-8 son, and for 4 years held Fort St. Louis, in the present Port Latour. Meantime Claude had been captured by the English and carried to London, where he was knighted, and then married one of the Queen's maids-of-honor. Peing a Huguenot, he was the more easily seduced from his allegiance to France, and ho offered to the King to procure the surrender of Fort St. Louis (the only French post then held in Acadia) to the English So he sailed to Nova Scotia with two frigates, and asked his son to yield up the stronghold, offering him high honors at London and the supreme command in Acadia, on behalf of th(> Englisli power. " Claude at once told his father that he was mistaken in supposing him capable of giving up t'le place to the enemies of the state. That he would preserve it for the king his maf-fer while he had a breath of Ufe. That he esteemed highly the dijjnities offered him by I CAPE SAELE. Route 25. 123 ^\ the English king, but should not buy thorn it the price of treaflon. That the prince he served was able to requite him ; and if not, that fidelity was its own best reroni- peii!<((." The father employed affection 'to iiitcrces.sion and bold menace, alike in Viiin ; and the English naviil commander then landed his forces, but was neverely repulsed from tlie fort, and finally gave up the siege. A traitor to France and a cause of disaster to England, the unfortunate La 'J'our dared not return to Europ<', but advised his patrician wife to go back with the tieet, since naught now remained for liim but penury and misery. The noble lady replied, " that she had not married him to abandon him. That wherever he should take her, and in whatever condi- tion he might bo ))laced, slio would always bo his faitliful companion, and that all her liappincss would consist in softening liis grief." He then threw himself on the clemency of his son, who tempered filial affection witli milifciry vigilance, and wel- comed the elder La Tour, with his family, servants, and equipage, giving him a hou.se and liberal subsistence, but making and enforcing the condition that neither him.self nor his wife should ever enter Fort St. Louis. There they lived in happiness and comfort for many years. (See also page 19.) The hamlet of Port I/vtour is seen on the inner shore, and tho vessel rounds tho lonp low promontory of Baccaro Pointy on which is a small village and a fixed red light (visible 12 M.). On the W. is Cape Sable Island, which is 7 M. long an^ 2-3 M. wide, and has a population of l,G3fi, with tlirco ( hurchcs. Its first settlers were the French Acadians, who luid pro.'sperous little hamlets on the shores. In August, 1758, 400 soldiers of the 35th British Uegiment landed here and destroyed the settle- ments, and carried priest and people away to Halifax. About 1784 tlie island was occupied by Loyalists from the New-England coasts, whoso de- scendants are daring and adventurous mariners. Cape Sable is on an outer islet at tlie extreme S. point of the island and of Nova Scotia, and is 8-9 M. S. W. of Baccaro Point. , It is supposed that Cape Sable and the adjacent shores were the ancient lands of the Nor.«c di ovcrers, " flat, and covered with wood, and where white sands were far around win ic they wc.t, and the shore was low." In the year 994 tliis point was "isitcd by Leif, the son of Erie tho Red, of Brattahlid, in Greenland. IIo anchored his ship off shore and Imdeil in a boat; and when he returned on board he said: " This land shall be named after its qualities, and called Markl.vxd " (woodland). Thence he sailed southward, and discovered Vinland the Good, on the S. shores of Massachusetts and Rhode Island, where for many years the bold Norsemen main- tained colonies. In tlie year 1007 .Markland was again visited by Thorfinn Ivarlsefne, who, with ItJO men, was sailing south to A'inland. These events are narrated in tlie ancient Icelandic epics of tho Saga of Eric tho Red and the Saga of Thorfinn KarLsefuo. In 1.347 a ship arrived at Iceland from the shores of .Slarkland, which is de- scribed by the Annalos .'^kallioltini and the Codex Flatcyensis as having been smaller than any Icelandic consting-vcssel. In such tiny craft did the fearless Norsemen visit these iron-bound shores. In tlie autumn of 1750 there was a sharp naval action off tho cape between II. M. S. Albnni/ and the Frencli war-vessel St. Francis. The engagement lasted four bours, and ended in the surrender of the St. Francis, whose convoy, however, escaped and reached its destination. In July, 1812, tlic Salem privateer Polly was cruising off Cape Sable, when she sighted two strange sail, and bore down on them, supposing them to be merchant- men ; but one wa.s a Dritish sloop-of-war, which oixiied a hot fire upon the incavi- tious Polly, and a sliarp chase ensued. A calm commenced, during which the frig- ate's boats and launch attacke ' the privateer, but were i-epulsed by heavy dis- charges of musketry and langra,L?e. The Polly made her escape, anci during the chase and action the convoy of the frigate bad been captured by the pn ateer Mad- ison, and wa.s sent into Salem. In the same vi< inity (Aug. 1, 1K12) tho Rhode-Island privateer Yankee captured the British ship Royal B.ninty, 10 guns, after a battle of one hour"= duration. The Ifi.' jrl m H f t[ I IH H ! i! ' I 124 Route 25. BARRINGTON. prlvatcer'H broad.'»lnt pwffslon, nnd 150 of her «hofc stnirk the enemy, while the fln' of the Koya/ Bounty, though rapid nnd licavy, was nearly Ineffwtive. The shattered Briton beoame unmanageable, and while in that condi- tion wa« raked from utem to stern by the Ynnker'x batteries. Cape Sable hns lonf? been dreaded by M>anien , and has eauf(ht up and destroyed many vessels. Jt is one of the most dangerous prongs of that iron-bound Provlnco for which Edmund Burke could lind no bettor words than " that hard-visaRcd, ill- favored brat " I'robably the most destructive wreck on tbia Bhoro was that of tho ocean steamship Hungarian. Tho steamer is now running to tho N. W. np tho Bnrrinfiton Pos- tage, between Capo Siibiv. Island and tho populous Baccaro peninsula. In about 12 M. it lies to off Barrington, a thriving maritime village of 1,000 inhabitaji*', most of whom arc engaged in tho fisheries and tho coasting trade. Clyde River is about 9 M. N. E., and is a lumbering district origi- nally settled ly Welshmen. 10-12 M. N. are tlio Sabimm and Great Pubnico Lakes. Bnrringi 'n was settk;d at an early date by tho French, but thev were crowded off in 1703 by tlie nn ■. al of 160 families from Capo Cod, wiio brought 111*'- ^ ■ their household efl^'ccts on their own vessels. A^er tho Rcvoluiion, a colony of Loyalists from Nantucket settled hero with thpir whilom rieigbbo)"a. Tho r urso is noiv to the ::•>. W., through a narrow and tide-swept pas- sage between Clement Point and N. E. Point, and thence or.t through tho Barrington West Passage, passing the Baptist church near Clarke's Har- bor, and emerging on the open sea between Bear Point and Newell Head. (It is to be noted that, under certain adverse conditions of wind and tide, tho steamer, does not call at Barring^-on, but rounds Capo Sablo on tho outside.) On tho 1. is Green Island, hiding Capo Sablo, and tho inlet of Shag Harbor is seen on tho r. On Bon Portage Island (whoso original French name was Bon Potage) Is a n^w lighthouse, to warn vessels from the rugged shores on which *ho Viceroy w-^.s wrecke(l The course soon changes toward the N. W., and Seal Xalii, I'l, "tue elbow of tho Bay of Fundy," is seen on the 1., far out at sea, with the tower of its lighthouso (flxed whit , light, visible 18 M., and fog-whistle) looming above its low shores. On this islond tho ocean-ttoamship Columbia was lost. Tho Blonde Rock is 3^ M. S. by W. from ti^e lighthouse, and marks tho point where H. B. M. frigate Blonde went to ])icof;s, in 1782. Her crew was res- cued from the island and was given liberty by the American privateers Lively and Scammell, which were prowling about Cape Sable at the time of th« wreck. When the Seal Island lighthouse s just abeam, on the other side Is seen Cockerwhit and the Mutton Island:^^ ; N. of Seal Island the Noddy, Mud, and Round Islands are seen, lyinjr well out at sea. The early Trench maps (Chaubert's) gave these lonely islands tho significant name of Les Isles aux Loups Marins. From Cape Sable " one goes to the Isle avx Cormorants, a league distant, so enlled on account of the infinite number there of tUo^u birds, with whose eggs we filled a ^^ TUSKET ISLANDS. JtoiUf S5. 125 ■^1 ^ cfti"k ; Rnd from thU hay makhis W. ahmit R leamiPi » <'r«wsln (? n bay which nin« In 2 -li lengu«H to th« N., wo meet Hcvoral inlandH, 'l-'A loiiKues out to »«n, whloli may contain, Home '2, others 3 Icanucs, and otluTH Iohh, accordiii)? to my judgment. Tlicy aro mostly wry danj;croua for vcsscIm to como close to, on account of the ffrcat tides and roclts level witti the water. Thcc Islands arc filled with pine-trees, firs, birches, and aspens. A little further on are 4 others. In one there Is so groat a quantity of birds called tani;Hnix that they may be eanily knocked down with a stick. In another there are seals. In two others there is such an abundance of birds of dif- ferent kinds that, without having seen them, could not bo imagined, such as cor- morants, ducks of three kinds, geese, marmtttes, bustards, p^-rrof/M^/.i ilf >/i>'r, snipes, vultures, and other birds of prey, ynnitnes, sea-larks of two or three kinds, herons, goillnnts, curlews, sea-gulls, divers, kites, appoils, crows, crunos, and other tiorts, which make their nests here." (Champlain.) " Here are many islands extending into the sea, 4 - 5 M. distant from the main- land, and many rocks with breaking seas. Some of these islands, on account of tho multitude of birds, are called hies mix Tangueux ; others are called Islesavx Loups Marins (Seal Islands)." (Novua Oiinis.) N. of St. John's Island (on the r.) is seen the deep Inlet of Pnbnico Hiir- bor, on wlioso shores is the great fishing-village of Pubnioo ( CarlaruTa Hotel), with 1,900 inhabitants, of whom 136 families are Acadian-French, the greater portion belonging to the families of Amiro and D'Entremont. There are valuable eel-fisheries oft' this coast, and tho Acadians own 65 schooners in the Banks fisheries. 6 M. N. is Arffyle, a settlement of 800 inhabitants, near the island-strewn Abuptic Harbor. Tho steamer now crosses the mouth of Argyle Bay and the estuary o"f the Tusket River (see page 110), and enters the archipelago of the * Tusket Islands. In favorable conditions of wind and tide she traverses the Ellen- wood Passage, passing the Bald Tuskets, Kllenwood, Allen, and Murder Islands, and a multitude of others. The islands are of great variety of size and shape, and are usually thickly 'covered with low and sturdy trees; and the channels between them are na.TOw and very deep. The frequent kaleidoscopic changes in the views on -either side, and the fascinating commingling and contrast of forest, rock, ainl water, recall the scenery of the Thousand Islands or tho Narrows of Lake George. But the Tuskets aro not even embayed ; they stand off one of the sharpest angles of the continent, and the deep lanes between them are traversed by the strongest tides of the ocean. Soon after passing the last Tusket the steamer runs in near the white village on Jebogue Point, and enters Yarmouth Sound. On the 1. is Cape Fourchu, with its fog-whistle and a lofty revolving light which is visible for 18 M. The narrow channel is ascended, with a plain of mud on either side, if the tide is out; and the vessel reaches the end of her journey at the wharves of Yarmouth. Yarmouth, see page 114. 123 Route 2G. ST. MAUGARET'S LAY. i I i. '■ I 1 2G. Halifax to Yarmouth, by the Shore Route. — Chester and ¥ ^ \e Bay. The easipRt route to the chief porw on this const is hv the steamship line (see Koiite 25) ; and tlic iio-v \\c.« torn-* '( unities Uaiiuiiy. from Yiirnioiitli to Annajjolis, vill,whfu conipletcil, fiiniisli a still more exiK'ilitious line of travel. Hut many |ioint8 on the Atlantic front of the Province are. and will be, accessible only by t fji^es. This mode of travel is fully as arduous here as in other remote districts. i'.:;d tile accommodations for wayfarers are indilTerei.t. I>lMaiices. — Halifax to St. Martiarefs Hay. 21 M ; Hubbard's {!ove(McLean's\ 02 : Chester, 4r. ; Mahone Hav, ()2 (branch to Lunenburg; in 7 M.) ; Hrid^ewater, 70 ; Mill Village, 88: Liverpool, ' it7 ; Hort Mouton, 107; I'ort Joli,112; Sable Uiver, 122; .Jordan Kiver, 130 ; Shelburne, 137; liarrinjjton, 157 ; Pubnico, 175 ; Tusket, I'Jl ; Yarmouth, 201. (Certain facts ascertained while travelling over thi.- route liave led tlie Editor to stati' the distance between Hr.'dfrcwater and Cbester an- 4 M. liit-H than that ffiven in the official ititieiiiry.) Fares. — Halifax to Chester, .*2.50; Mahone Tiiy, !*3.50 (Lunenburg, ^i); Hridgcwutcr, $ 4 ; Livcrpoc', SO; Shelburne, S=8.5U ; Harrington, § 10 ; Yarmouth, $12. TIio stapo rattlos uj) the hilly streets oC Iliillfax at early inorniiifr, and traverses tlic wide coimuoiis X. of the Citadel, with formal lines of trees on either side. IJeyoiid the ensuing line of snburban villas it de .ecnd.s to the level of the XortI;\vc:it Ann (see paj^e 100), along wliose head it passes. The road then leads along the shores of the lakes whence Halifax draws its water-snpply, and enters a dreary ami thinly settled region. Dauphi- iiey's Cove is at the head of* St. Margaret^s Bay, one of the most beauti- ful bays on all this remarkable eoast. It is 12 M long by G M. wide, and is entered by a passage 2 M. wide; and is supjiosed to hnvc been named (Bate (le Ste. Marguerite) by Chanijilain, who visited it in May, 1G03. There arc several small nnn'itimc villages on its shores, and the dark blue •waters, bounded by rugged hills, are deep enough for the passage of largo ships. The stage runs S. W. along the shore for 11 M., sometimes rolling alongside of beaches of dazzling white sand, then by .shingly and sttmy str".uds on which the embayed surf breaks lightly, and then by the liuts i)f fishermen's lianil"ts, with their boats, !iets, and kettles by the road- side. Ilubbariis Cove has u small inn, where pas.sengers get their midday meiils. There wa.'» an nnriont water-route from this point to the Hasin of Minas. 2 M. from the Cove is Dnuphinei/'x I^kf, which is 4 M. long, wlien<-e a carry of 1\ M. leads into the Ponhooh Lnhr, a river like expanse « .M. I(':ig, and nowhere so much as 1 M. wide. A short outlet leads to the Hlind Lake, wliich winds for 7 M. through the forests \V. of the Ardoise Mt., aud is drained by the St. Croix Hirer, emptying into the Avon at Windsor. 7 M. S. \V. of Hubbard's Covo the stage crosses the East liivcr, "n glorious runway for salmon, with splendid falls and cold brooks tumbling into it at intervals, at the moulh of which large trout can be caught two nt a time, if the angler be skilful enough to land them whan hooked." Frequent and beautiful views of Mahone Hay arc now gained (on the 1.), as the stage sweeps unmnd it* head and descends to T lAt -IP CHESTER. Route ^G. 127 Chester (two roo.I inns), a village of jibout 900 inhabitants, finely situ- ntod on a liili-sl(>])e which overlooks tho Chester Basin and ^hlhone Bay. It has three churches, and a ])loa«ant pummor society. Thin town was Fettled about the yi'ar 17G0 by 144 Xew-Knglanders, who brought an outfit of cattle and fanning-tools. In 1784 they were joined by a large number of Loyalist refugees, but these were from the American cities, and soon wearied of farming and returned out of exile. In the woods near the vil- Ti lago is a thermal spring 8 ft. around, whence a soft alkaline water is dis- charged; and on the shores of Sabbatee Lake are found deposits of kaolin, or white pipe-clay. Mr. Ilallock is an enthusiastic nJmircr of this town, and says : " Throo pleasant seasons have I spent at (.'hester. I iULlize its very name. Just below my winilow a lawn slopes down to a little bay with a jetty, where an occasional schooner lands Bonie stores. There is a lary;e tree, under which I have piacei . Mime seats ; and off the end of the pier the ladies can catch lloundcrs, tonicods, and cunners, in any quantity. There i\xm beautiful drives in tho vicinity, and innumerable islands in the bay, where one can bathe and j-icnic to hearfs-content. There are s.dlingboatd for lob.ster-spearinK and deep-sea fishinR, and row-boats too. From the top of a nei-^hboriii); hill is a woiideif'ul p;inorania of forest, stream and cultivated shore, of ba\s and llsUnit sea, filled with islands of every size and shape. And if one will go t') «iold Kiver he may perchance see, as I have done, caribou at stone dniins were di.xcovewd leading from the sea into the pit. After much money and labor was spent in the excavatidn, it was given up about 10 years ago, and the object of the giiiat draius and concealed pit still remains a profound mys- tery. Bis: Tanrook is the chief of the islands in this bay, and is about 2 M. long. It contains iJOO inhabitant*, who are engaged in farming and fishing. Between this point and -Mt. Aspotogon is Little Tancook Island, with (><» inhabitants. These islands were devjistated, in 17ot), by the Indians, who killed several of the settlers. " This bay, the scenery of which, for picturescjue grandeur, is not surpassed by any land.sca|M; in America, is about 10 M. broad and 1*2 de<'p, and contains within it a multitude of l>eautiful wooded islands, which were probably ne'er counted, but are said to exceed 200."' Soon after the Yarmouth stage leaves Chester " we come to Ohester Basin, island-gcmnied and indeiiti'd with many a little cove; itiid far out to Fea, looming up in solitary grandeur, is Aspotogon, a mountain head- land said to be the highest hui'l in Nova Scotia ( V ). The road follows tho shore for many a mile, and then turns abruptly up the beautiful valley of Gold River, the finest of all the salmon streams of this grand locality. In it there are eleven glorious pools, all within 2 M. of each other, and others for several miles above at longer intervals." Mahone Boy (Victoria Hotel) is a village of 800 inluibitants, situated on a pretty cove about 17 M. from Chester. It has 4 churdies, and its inhab- itants are mostly engaged in fishing and the liunber-trade. In the vicinity arc several other populous German settlements, and 7 M. S. is Lunenburg (see page 118). This point was known to the Indians by the name of Afushamush, and was fortified by the British in 1764. The stage now traver-es a dreary inland region, inhabited by Germans, and soon reaches Bvidytwater (two imis), a thriving village on the Lahavo Kiver, 13 M. from the sea. It has 1,000 inhabitants and 4 churches, and is largely engaged in the luml)er-tra(le, exjKtrting staves to the I'nited States and the West Indies. The scenery of the Lahave River is at- tractive and picturescjue, but the saw-mills on its upper waters have proved fatal to the fish (see page 110). The road now traverses a tlismal region for 18 M., when it reaches Mill Villit<)i (siindl hotel), on the I'ort Medway River. This place has several lurge haw-milU and a match- LIVERPOOL LAKES. r.oute S7. 129 11 « fiictory, and its population numbers about 400. It is near tlio Doran and Herringcovo Lalvcs, and i-* G M. from tiie Tliird Falls of tlio Lahave. 9 M. S. W. is Liverpool (reo papc 120). From Liverpool to Yarmouth the road runs nlonp; the heads of the bays and acrops the intorvenin?; strips of land. The chief stations and tlieir distances are given in the itinerary on page 120; the Jescriptious of the towns may be found in Route 25. 27. The Liverpool Lakes. This system of inland wators is most easily reached from ITallfax or Pt. .Toha by passing; to Aunaiiolis Uoyal and there tukiug the stage which leaves nt 6 A. M. daily. Dlstanocs. — Annapolis; >Iilf()rd,14 M. ; Maitland,27; Northfiold,30 ; Kempt, a'); IJniokfu-ld, 41; Caledouia Comer; (ireeufleld (I'ouhook), 50; Middlefield, 50; Liverpo,;, 70. Soon after leaving Annapolis the stage enters the valley of Allen's River, which is followed toward the long low range of the South Mt. At MUj'ord (small inn) the upper reservoirs of tlie Liverpool River are met, and from this point it is possil)le to descend in canoes or lint-bottomed boats to the town of Liverpool, 60 >L distant. If a competent guide can be secured at Milford this trip con be made with safety, and will open up rare fishing- grounds. The lakes are nearly all bordcreil by low and rocky shores, with hiil-rauges in the distance; and flow through regions a Inch are as yet but little vexed i)y the works of man. The trout in these waters are abundant and not ocoy; though better fishing is found in proportion to the dis- tance to which the southern forest is entered. Mr. McClelland has been the best guide from Milford, but it is uncertain whether he will be avail- able this summer. Queen's and Lunenburg Counties form " the lake region of Xova Scotia. All that it lacks is the grand old mountains to make it physically as at- tractive as the Adirondacks, while as for game and fish it is in everj' way infinitely superior. Its rivers are short, but tliey flow with full volume to the sea, and yield abundantly of salmon, trout, and sea-trout. Its lakes swarm with trout, and into many of them the salmon ascend to spawn, and are dipped and speared by the Indians hi large numbers." (Hal- lock.) " In the liollows of the liiphlands are Hkowlse embosomed lakes of every variety of form, and often quite i.««olated. Deep and intensely blue, their shores fringed vitli rtt<-k bowlders, and ^:enerally eontaininR several islands, they do nuieh to di- versify the monotony of the forest by their fre(iueucy and picturesque scenery." (I'.Vl'T. II.VRDY.) The Liverpool road is rugged, and leads through a region of almost un- broken forests. IJeyond Milford it runs S. E. down the valleys of the r.oot Lake and Fisher's Lake, with dark forests and ragged clearings on either side. Maitlmul U a settlement of about 400 inhabitants, and a fe:v iiiiKs beyond is Northfield, whence a forest-road leads S. W. 6 M. to the (;♦ I m i f ■■ ■ ii 1 ^ !|i ■ ■ ■ tt' 1 : \\ 1 ' Ik 1 II 1 ' i If' ' fiii ' p U i:^ I' ■; \^- i \ r- j4 130 Routed. LIVERPOOL LAKES. ''■i \\ fiiy, shore of Fairy Lal-e, or the Frozen Ocean, a beautiful ishuul-strewn ?hcet of water 4 ^I. long. The road now enters Brool: field, the centre of the new funning settle- ments of the North District of Queen's County. Sevcnil roads diverge hence, and in the vicinity the lakes and tributaries of the Liverpool and Port Medway Rivers arc curiously interlaced. 6-G M. S. E. is the Malnja Lcike, which is 5 M. long and has several pretty Islands. Tlie road passes on to Greenfield, a busy lumbering-village at the outlet of Port Medway i^^ Great Lake. This long-drawn-out sheet of water is also skirted by the other road, which runs S. from Brookficld through Cfdedonia Corner (small inn). The Ponhook Road is S. W. of Greenfield and runs down through the forest to the outlet of Fonhook Lake, ' the headquarters of the Micmacs and of all the salmon of the Liverpool River " This Lidiun village is the place to get guides who are tireless and are familiar with every rod of the lak'^ district. From this point a canoe voyage of about 8 M. across the Ponhook Lakes leads the voyager into the great * Lake BossignoL which is 12 M. long by 8 M. wide, and affords one of the most picturesque sights in Nova Scotia. " A glorious view was unfolded as wc loft the run and entered the still water of the lake. The breeze fell rapidly with the .• villiij;i-s aloii;,' tljo Atlautu- shore to tlio E. The lonvcyanco is not good, and the roads arc souietinies iu bad couditiou, but there is pretty coa.-t->eenery along the route. Distances. — Halifax; Dartmouth; Porter's Lake (Inniss), 1(5 'J M. ; Chez/x't- cook lload (Onnon's), 18 '^ ; Musquodoboit Harbor, 2>S'^. ; Lakeville (Webber's), 40; Ship Harbor, 48; Tangier, 60 ; Slieet Harbor, 74 ; Beaver Harbor, 84. After leaving Dartmouth, the stage runs E. through a lakc-strcwn conn- tri', and passes near the gold-mines of Montague. Beyond the Little Salmon Iilver it traverses Preston, with the gold-bearing district of Lawrcncetown on the S. The mines and j)Iacer-washings at this point drew largo and enthusiastic crowds of adventurers in 1801-62, but they arc now nearly abandoned. The road rounds the N. end of Echo Lake and ascends a ridge beyond, after which it ( rosses the long and river-liko expanse of Portcr^s Lake, and runs through the post-village of the same name. 3-4 M. to the S. E. is C/iezzetcook Harbor, with its Jong shores lined with settlements of the Acadian French, whereof Cozzcns writes: — " But wo are again in the Acadian forest ; let us enjoy the seencry . The road wo nrc on is but a few miles from the sea-shore, l)ut the oeean is hidden from view by the thick woods. As we ride along, however, we skirt the edges of coves and inlets that frcijuently break in uj)on the landscape. There is a chain of fresh-water lakes also along this road. Sometimes wo cross a bridge over a rushing torn'nt ; some- times a calm expan.«e of water, d')vdiling the evergreens at its margin, comes into view ; anon u gleam of sapphire? strikes through the verdure, and an ocean-bay with its shingly beach curves in and out between the piny slopes. " Hero " the water of tlio harbor has an intensity of color rarely swn, except in the pictures of the most ultramarine i)ainters. Hen; and there a green island or a fishing-boat rested u])on the surface of the tmnquil blue. For miles and miles tho j've followed indented grassy slopes that rolled away on eitlicr side of the harbor, and the most delicate i)encil could scari'ely portray tli(!ex(juisite line of creamy sand that skirted their edges and melted oil in the clear margin of the water. Occasional little cottages nestle among these greon banks, — not the Ac.-idiun houses of tho poem, 'witli thatched roofs and dormer-windows projecting,' but comfortfible, Immely-Iooking buildings of modern sha|)es, shingletl and un-weathercocked The women of tMu'/,z«'tcook appear at daylight in tho city of Halifax, and as .soon as tlie sun is up vanish like the (lew. They have usually a liasket of fn'>h eggs, a braco or two of worsted socks, a bottle of llr bal.sjvm, to sell. The.so couii»ri.-rosperity and in numbers. There are about 'li'A) families now resident about tho bay, pnd and went to tiio now fields. Lucnitivo shore-washings wero engaged in for some tinn;, and a stray nugget of Tangier gold weighing 27 ounces was shown in tho Duhlin Kxjwsition. This distriel covers about 30 square miles, and has 12 lodes of auriferous (juartz. The South Lode is the most valuable, a:id aj)iK'ars to grow richer as it descends. The mines are now being worked by two small companies, and their average yield is $ 400-600 per miner each year. Beyond Tangier and Pope's Bay the post-road passes the head of Sj)7'y Hfijj, and then the head of Mushaboon Harbor, and reaches Sheet Harbor (Karnal's Hotel). This is a small shipbuilding village, at the head of the long harbor of the same name, and is at the outlets of the Middle and North Rivers, famous for their fine salmon fisheries. From this point a road follows the sliore to the N. E. to Shorbrooke, about 50 M. distJint, i)assing the obscure maritime hamlets of Beaver Harbor, Necum Tench, Ekum Sekum, Marie Jo.seph, and Jjiscomb Harbor. Tho back-country on all this route is yet desolate and ini.settled. There are so many islands off tiie shore that this pf)rtion of the Atlantic is called the Bay of Islands (old French, Baie de I'uults les Islrs), although it is not embayed. Slierbrooke, see page 133. «1^ i:» ¥* GUYSBOROUGII. Jtoute 20. 133 <^ 29. The Northeast Coast of Nova Scotia. This district i.^ ronrhod Ity paspinR on tho Tntcrrolonial Railwfiy (sec Routes 10 and 17) from St .lohn or llnlifax to New Glasgow, and thence taking the lloyal mail-stage to Auti^'ouish (see lloutc 32). From Antigniiisli a stage departs on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday mornings, running 40 M. S. (fare, S2) to Sherbrooke (two inns). This ia a village on the 1. bank of the St. .Mary's IJiver, tiie largest river in Nova Seotia, and is at the head of navigation on that stream. It is engaged in shipbuilding and in the exportation of deals and lumber. The town de- rives considerable interest iVom the fact that in the vicinity is one of tho broadest and most prolific gold-fields in the Province. Goliknrille is 3 M. from Sherbrooke, by a road which crosses the St. Mary's on a long bridge. This district covers 18 square miles, and is the richest in the Province, having yielded as high as $2,000 per man per year, or about three times the average production of the best of the Australian mines. Tho aurifer- ous lodes are operated at Goldenville oidy, where there are several quartz- crushers on a large scale. These mines were discovered in 1801, and on the first day over $500 Avorth of gold was found here. Systematic minir. Guysborough and Cape Canso. Ouysborough ( GranVs Hotel) is reached by daily mail-stages from An- tigonish, from which it is 31 M. distant (fare, $2.50). After leaving tho valley of the South River, the road passes through a rough and hilly region, and descends through the Intervale Settlement and Manchester to Guys- borough, a marine village at the head of Chedabucto Bay. It has about 1,500 inhabitants, with a prosperous academy, and is the capital of Guys- borough County (named in honor of Sir Guy Carlcton). It is engaged in shipbuilding and the fisheries, and has a good and spacious harbor. Tho noble anchorage of Alilford Haven lies between the town and tho bay. i i Mi ' t'l .'■■ I jl; ■ F ri 1 r [ 1 i i' -I * i'l' i11 134 Route 30. SABLE ISLAND. A ptrnnR post wns ostnltlishctl nt Chivlnbncfo, on tho sito of finysboroiijrh in l»^'{n, by M. Dfiiys, wlio liud h^paciDus wiuvhousi's iiiid a stioiit; fort licri', tonttlur witli 120 iiu'ii. llori' lit" ivccivcil uiid HUpiMjrtiil tlic fxilod works won; lu?ld l)y Do Moiitor(.'iii'iiil, and wt-.c liravc'ly di'fondctl njiainst tlio attacks of lliu Now-IOngland army iindur Sir William IMiipps. Finally, wlicn tlio ltiiildinj;s of tlii' fort were; all in llami-s ulioiit him, the p;allant Krencliman siirrondfrcd, and was si-iit to I'laccntia wiMi liis soldiers. Tlio ruius of the auiiuut fort arc now to be traced uuur the mouth of the harbor. A boM ridge runs 31 M. E. Irom Guyshorough along the S. shore of Chcd- abiicto Uay to Cape Canso, the most easterly point of Nova Scotia. A road follows the course of the bay to the fishing-village of Cajjc Canso, which has over 1,000 inhabitants .nnd enjoys a profitable little export trade. Several islands lie ofl' this extreme point of Nova Scotia, one of ■which bears two powerful wliite lights and a fog-whistle. Canso Harbor is marked by a fixed red light which is visible for 12 M. White Haven is on tho S. side ot the great peninsula of Wilmot, 30 M. from Ouysborough, ami is a small fishiii}; settlemeiil situated on one of the finest bays on the Ameriiaii coast. It was ori;rinally intended to have tlio Intercolonial Railway terminate here, and connect with the transatlantic steamshiiis. The liarbor i.-' easy of access, of cai)acious breadth, and free from ice in winter. Its Iv jioint is White Ilcad, usually tho first land soon by vessels crofsiMir from Europe in this upper lati- tude, on wliich is a fixed whit'> li.';ht. .lust \\ \each with its continued surf, — the Hand-hills, iiart naked, part waving in grass of the deepest green, unfold themselves, — a house and a liarn dot the western extreniify, — hi're and there along the wild beach lie the ribs of un- lucky traders half lnirie(l in the shifting sand Nearly the first thing the vis- itor does is t', nidunf the llag-stall', and, climbing into the crow's-nest, scan the scene. The (Hoan bounds him everywhere, .^^prcad east ami west, he views the narrow island in form of a bow, as if tho great Atlantic waves had ln-nt it around, nowhere much above 1 .M. wide, 2tj M. long, including the dry bars, and holding a shaUow lake 13 M. long in its centre. There it uU lies spread like a map at his feet, — grassy ^rf SABLE ISLAND. HuutcSO. 135 ill ViV\, lur Nvitli ay Cliar- Ufcn> iind iiml \v«'iC Williiim him, tlio •rs. Tlio fChod- itia. A Canso, export one of Harbor '^^ O hill and sandy valUy fading nway into the dlstanco. On tho foroprround the outpont iniMi t;allii|iiii^; tlu'ir roiiuli ponies into la-adiinartiTs, rcciillt'd l>\ rlu? \\a,\^ tlyln^ over Lid luiid ; tlio West-vnd iimi.so of rctiiKi", «ith bread and niatdu'S, firewood iind kettle, and directions to fnid water, and lieadi|narters witli ila^-.stalf on the adjoin- ing hill. Kvery windy jieak or grassy knoll with a dead man's namo or old shiji's tradition, — IJaker's llill, Trotfs Cove, ycotehmans Head, Freneli Gardens, — tra- ditionary spot where the p Icilges of rock along the shores. The GUis^^ow's bow, the Maskonemefx bUtu, the East Boston's hulk, and the grinning ribs of the well-f.istened Guidt, aro spotting tlie sands, each with itn tale of last adventure, hardships passed, and toll endured. The whole picture Is set iu a silver-frosted frame of rolling surf and sea- ribbed sand." " Mounted upon his hardy pony, the solitary patrol starts upon his lonely way. lie rides up the centre valleys, ever and anon mounting a grassy hill to look sea- ward, reaches the\Vest-end bar, six'culates ujion perchance a broken spar, an empty bottle, or a cask of beef struggling in the iand-wiish, — now fords the shallow lake, looking well for his land-nmge, to escape the hole where IJaker was drowned; and coming on the breeding-ground of the countless birds, his iiony's hoof with a reck- less smash go<>s crunching through a dozen eggs or callow young. He fairly puts his pony to her mettle to escaix; the cloud of angry birds which, arising in countless iUunbiM-8, dent his weather-beaten tarpaulin with their sharp bills, and snap his pony's ears, and confu.se him with their sharp, shrill cries. Ten minutes more, and ho is holding hard to count the seals. There they lay, old ocean's tlocks, resting their wave-tossed hmbs, — great ocean bulls, and cows, and calves." (Dr. J. B. OlLlMN.) i'or over a century SaVde Island has l)con famous for its wild horses. They num- ber perhaps 4(X), and are divided into gangs which are under the leadership of tlio old males. They resemble the Mexican or Ukraine wild horses, in their large heads, shaggy necks, sloping quarters, jiaddliiig gait, and chestnut or piebald colors. Once a year the droves are sill herded by daring horsemen into a large iiound, where20or30 of the best are taken out to be .sent to Nova .'^cotia. After the horses chosen for ex- portation are lassoed and secured, the remainder aro turned loose again. Since Sable I.sland was first sighted by (\ibot, in 1497, it has been an object of terror to marinei'S. Sever.d ve.s.sels of D'Aiiville's French Armada were lost here; and among the many wrecks in later days, the chief have been tho.so of the occau steamship OVorjj/Vt and the Freiuli frigate L' Af'riniinf. In the year loHiJ, when .Sir Humiihix'y tJilbert was returning from Newfoundland (of which he had taken pos.se.ssion in the name of the English Crown), his httle tleeb became entangled among the shoals aliout Sable Island. On one of these outlying liars the ship DelinlU struck heavily and d:ished her stern and iiuarters to piwes. The olHcers and over 100 men were lost, and 14 of the crew, after drifting about in a piniiiu-e for many days, were tinally rescued. The other vessels, the Squirrel and the Golden Hind, bore oil to sea and set their course for England. But when off the A»ires the Squirrel wiis sorely tos.sed by a tempest (being of only 10 tons' burden), and upon her deck was seen Sir llumiihrey Gilbert reading a book. As she swept past the Golden Hind, the lirave knight cried out to tlie captain of the latter : *' Courage, my lads, we are as near heaven by sea as by land." About midnight the Squirrel jilunged heavily forw.ird into the trough of the sea, and went down with all on board. Thus perished this " resolute soldier of Jesus Christ, .... one of the noblest and best of men in an age of great men." In 1508 a futile attempt at colonizing Sable Island was made by " Le Sieur Baron de Ii4.'ri et de St. .lust, \k.. mte de Gueu." But he left some live-stock hero that afterwards sjived many lives. In the year 159S the Maniuis de la Roche was sent by Henri IV. to America, car- rying 200 cuuricts Ixom the French prisons. Ho determined to found a sottlcmcut 13G Route 31. NEW GLASGOW. ill 1 r ; i :^ ft.r .ij 1 1 ii; on f^ablo Island, nnd left 40 of his iiirii there to rommenro the work. Poon nflcr, Do la UocIk! whs Uncvd by htrcss of f^tonii to ri'tiirn to l-'rance, iiliiiiiiloiiiiij; tiit-HO unfortiuiiitc loloiiistrt. Uitliout fo d. clotiiih^', or wooij, they nulVfnd intensely, until i)artial relief wa.s hrouf^iit by the wrccUiiiKof a i'liiich.-^hipoii the island. For Beveii yrars they dwelt in lints bniit of wreekid timber, dressed in senl-skins, and living on llsh. Then Kiuff Ibinl IV, rent ont a ship under Chedotel, and the 12 survivors, piunt, squalid, and long-bearded, were carried back toFrancc, where they were pardoned and rewarded. An attempt was made about the nnddle of the iGth century to colonize Cnpe Rro- ton in the interests of Spain, but the fleet that was trausportiug the t^pauiards unj their property was dashed to pieces on siuble l»land. 31. S^ John and Halifax to Fictou. By the Pictou 7'vanch iiuilway, which diverges from the Intercolonial Ilailwny at Truro. Stations. — S^ John to Pictou. St. J.ihn to Truro, 215 M. ; Vallev, 219; Union, 224; Uiversdale, 228; West River, 2iH;\ (jllenpirry, 243; Hopewell, 250; Stellarton, 255; New (liasgow, 2u8 ; Pictou Landing, 20(; : St.ambo.it Wharf, 2»)7. Stations. — llalijnx to Pictou. Halifax to Truro, til .M . ; Valley, t>i") ; Union, 70; Uiversdale, 74 ; West Uiver, 82 ; fJlengarrv, 81» ; Iloiwwell, 96 ; Stellarton, 101 ; New Ula.-. Jiiversdale is surrounded by a pleasant diversity of hill-set ii'rv, and has a spool-factory and a con- siderable lumber trade. 14 M. to the X. is the tin-iving Scottish settlement of Earltown. Beyond West River the train reaches (jkngnrry, which is the station for the Scottish villages of New Lairg aiul (Jairloch. IlopewtU (Hopewell Hotel) has small woollen and spool factories; nnd a short dis- tance beyond the line approaches the banks of the l',;i r River. Stdlnrton is the station for the great Albion Mines, which are con- trolled (for the most part) by the General Tdining Association, of London. There is a populous village here, most of whose inhabitants are connected with the mines. The coal-seams extend over several miles of area, nnd are of remarkable thickness. They are being worked in several pits, and would doubtless return a great rcveinie in case of the removal of the re- strictive trade regulations of the United States. In the year 18G4 over 200,000 tons of coal were raised from these mines. New Glasgow (tliree inns) is a town of 2,500 inhabitants, largely en- gaged in shipbuilding nnd having other manufactures, including foundries and tanneries. It is favorably situated on the Kast River, and derives considerable importance from being the point of departure for the Royal mail-stages for Antigonish, the Strait of Canso, and Cape lireton; also for Guysborough, Wine Harbor, nnd Sherbrooke. The train now descends by the Enst River to Fisher's Clrnnt, opposite the town of Pictou, to which the passengers arc conveyed by a steam r i •> t i:f T ricTou. Haute 31. 137 T ■I 4 ferry-boat. If tlio travelloi- is about to take the steamsliip ho must remain on tli'^ train, wiiicli runs down 1 M. farther to her wharf. PictOU (St. Lawrence Hull) is a woaithy and fi'nrishiiif? town on tho Gulf shore of Nova Scotia. It has ahout .'},'»00 inlialiitant<, with several cluirchos, a masonic liali, and a wooUly paper. Tlu' \'\\h\> ■ l)uil(liii;T» of Pict> u County are also located hero, and tho academy is tin- chief educa- tional establishment. The harbor is the finest on the S. .shores of the (Julf of St. Lawrenee, and can accommodate ships of suiy burden, having a (U'l'tli of 5-7 fathoms. The town occupies a commanding position on a hillside over a small cove on the N. side of tli harbor, and nourly oppo- site, tho basin is divided into tiiree arms, into which flow tho East, Middle, and West Rivers. On tho Last River arc the shipping whar\es of tho Albion and the International (Joal Companies, whence immense quantities f>f coal were exported in the jialmy days before the I'nited States pmiished Canatla for aiding her rebel States, by repealing the Reciprocity Treaty. Pictou has a largo coasting trade; is engaged in shipbuilding; and has n marine-railway. It has also tobacco-factories, carding-nnlls, several (s:iw and grist mills, a foundr r, and three or four tanneries. Hut the chief business is connected with the ailjacent mines and tho exi)ortation of coal, and with the largo freestone quarries in the vicinity. stages leave Piotnii several times weekly, fur River .lohn, Tatamajrouehe, Wallace, I'uswaah, and Amherst (sec pa^e 81). Steaiiiships leave (^opposite) I'iotnu forCli.ar- lotretown, Suininer' landed nt I'ict I (from Piktoolc, an Indian word meaninK" Itubhlin^," or "' Oas-e.xplfxUnp," and referred to the ebullitions of the water near the ;;r<'at coal-beds). IIen> he created the tortoise tribe, in this wIm; : Great festivals and frames were made in his honor by the Tnilian.s of Pict(»ok,but he i ho.sc to dwell with a homely, lazy, and despised old b:i lulor named Mikcbickh, whom, after rlothinK in hi.s own robe and giving; him victory in the nanus, h initiated a.s the pm^'cnitor and king of all the tortoises, ^mokiuK him till his i ;it liccame brown and as hard as bone, and then re- ducing his size by a rude surgical ojjcration. The site of IMctou was occupied in ancient times by a populous Indian village, and in 1703 the French made futile preparations to found a colon> here. In 17i).'», 200,(X)0 acres of land in tiiis vicinity were granted to a company" in I'hiladelplii i, whence Viands of .settlers came in 17t!7-71. Meantime the site of the town ha+l been given to an army ofllcer, who in turn sold it for a hiir>e and saddle. Tho I'ennsyl- yanians were disheartened at the severity of the climate and the infertility of the Boil, and no progress was made in the new colony until 1773, when the ship Hector arrived with 180 persons from the Scottish Iliglilands. They were brought over by the Philadelphia 'ompany, but when they found that the shore lands were all taken, they refused to settle; on the; company's territory, and hence the agent cut off their sujiply of jirovisions. They subsisted on fish and venison, with a little flour from 'I'ruro, until the next i^pring, when tlw'y sent a ship-loud of i)iMo-tiniber to Britain, and Jilanted wheat and potJitoes. Soon alYerwards they wen? joined by 15 destitute families from Dumfriesshire ; aiul at the close of thi" Itt-volutionai * War many dioltanded soldiers settled here with their families. In 1780 the Rev. .lames McGregor came to Pictou and made a home, and aa he was a powerful preacher in f] 1 ^ 1 1 * 1 1 1 ^ 1 I \ ;, .' 14 , l!i »' I 138 Jioutc32. ANTIGONISII. fho Onolic liinfinnfro, mnny lli'xliliinilcrs from Hu' othor pMi'ts of tlic Piovtnco innTcil lien*, Mild iifw iiiiiiii}:riitiiiiis nniNdl tVniii Scotlaiid. In IT^H tlu' town wan ••oni- inciK-cil on ito |iri M-nt >ili- )>> liiiicim I'attcrsoii, iiihI in I7!l2 it wm.-^ niailt- ii ciiirc- town, (iri-at t|nantiti(s of Innilitr wt-ii' i-xporti'd to llrilain iictwt'i-n lHi)r> and 1^20, dnrin^c 'lir iH-riod ot KiirniMaii <(invtd>iiin, wlirn tlic llaitii' iioitM mxtc rlcifd, and \vlnli> the ltriti.>^li iiav\ \vms tlir main lio|i(> of thi' nation. 'I'lic |>ia('*> wart captured in 1777 liy III! American piivat<«r. Coal wa.s iliscovcrcd liciv in 17!W, hut tin* t'Xporta- tion vas Humll until l>'2~, whvu tlic- (it ix-rul Mining A.-'r'ociation of Lundon bt'(;,'in opcrafionH. .1 \V. DiiWHon. I<[i. 1) , F. 11 S., was liorn at Piotou in 1H20, and pradnatcd nt tliii ridvcrnity of Kilinlmr^'li in 1H4(). llo htndiid and travciU'd with Sir CliarleH h.X'li, imd lias licronif one of the lfudfr.s anionj^ tliL'Cluiftian sficnti.st.x. IILs^ivutj-st work wan till! " Acadian (li olofrv."' Jf'or tlic pust 20 jcurs ho 1ms beeu I'riuciiHil of tiio McUlll Colkye, ut Montreul. 32. St. John and Halifax to the Strait of Canso and Cape Breton. Hi/ t/ie 2cay of the land, thvoiiyh AntUjonlsh. (Compare also pa>;«' 12.) The Uoynl niail-stajje leaves New (Jlac^^w (see page 13<)) daily, on arrival t>f the morning; train from Ifalil'a.x, — at about 123(1 v.m., — and runs K. to tlie Stmit of Canso, conneetiiin witli otiicr staj^es for Sherbrooko, (.hn;-- borouKli, aiicj all parts of Cain- Ih'eton. This route is .>^erved by a lino of st >;e- coaehe.s whii h aiv said to bt; "second to none on tlie continent,"' though these e.x- rellent conveyances are exchanp'd at Antinoidsh for less couifortjiblo vehic.. s. I'asstiiKers take snppt-r at Antijronish, ride on all nijrht, and reach the Strait of Canso before dawn, (lentlenieu who are planning a summer trip will see that this mode (d' travel is utterly unsuitcd for an element in a |ileasure-tour, and that it i.s nearly impracticable for ladies, at least, to endure Hucli a ninht-journey. The at- tralMtaiiron. — New Ola.sgow to French Hivcr, 15 M. ; Marshy Hope, 25 ; Antigo- ni^^h,.'W; Triu-adie, 58; I'ort Mulgravo, 74; Port lluwkesbury, 75i ; St. I'cter'H, 114 ; Sydnoy, H'J. Oil rcac'liing the open country bovond New Glasgow, the road passes on forsovenil niiles througli an nnintercsting region of small farms and recent clearing.^. At the crossing of the Sutherland IJiver, a road diverges to the N. K., leading to Men'jomish, a shipbuilding hamlet on the coast, with asafo and well-sheltered harbor. In this vicinity are iron and coal deposits, tho latter of wliich arc worked by the Merigomish Coal Alining Company, Avith u capital of $ 400,000, IJoyond the hamlet at the crossing of French River, — " whicli may iiavc sccji better days, and will probably see worse," — the road ascends a long ridge which overlooks the Piedmont Valley to tho N. E. Thonco it descends through a sufficiently dreary country to tho relay-house at Aforshi/ Hope. " Tlio sun has s«>t ivhen we conic thundering down into tho pretty Catholic village of AntlKunisli, th > most home-liUe place wc have .seen on the island. The twin Ht(me towers of the u\ Hnislied cathedral loom up large in the fading light, and tho bishojj's j)alacc on the ill, the home of the Hlshop of Arlchat, appears to be an im- jioslng white barn with Many staring window,s People were loitering in tho street; the young beaux j; ilng up and down with the belles, after tho leisurely maimer in youth and summer. Perhaps they wero students from St. Xavier Ccl- I V9 ANTIGOXISII. Ituttc 32. 130 :'!' iiiovcil II sliirc- lit! isiio, '•<»'il, mill I'tiirnl ill t'xpordi- >u ln't;.iii I 1 1 I((»o, or vl^ltinir pillant* from flu.VHl)orou(;Ii. Tlicy look Into tho po«t-o(!lce and tho liinr'v !*tori'. Tlu'.v >tr<(ll ami tiikc tlirir litHo iiroviini.il i>lta.>*iin', ami maki- lovo, for all wi" can mi-c, as if .\iiti;;niii'li wcri' a part of tlif worl.l. How tlu-y niuot l(M>k down on Marshv IIo|m' and AdiHiiKtoii t'orkw and Tracudie I What a cbaruiinK pUu-o to live iu Ih tills I •■ (llADDECK.) Antigonishi (two good iiuis), the csipital of tho county of tho snino iiiiiiH', is situatoil at tho hoad of a lonj; ami slioal liarbor, near St. Gforgc's Hay. Some shiplmililiii}; is done hero, and many carj^ocs of cattle and butter arc sent lieiico to Newfoundland, (^n the K. shore of tho harbor arc valuable deposits of gypsum, which arc fcnt away on coasting- vessels. Tho inhabitants of the village and the adjacent country aro of Scottish descent, and their unwavering industry has made Antigonish a ])rosperous and pleasant town. Tho Collet/e of St. Francis Xaritr is tho l)i()cesan Seminary of the Franco-Scottish [)ioc(we of Arichat, and is tho residence of tho Hishop. It is a (.'atholic institution, and has six teachers. The Oithtilrnlof Ht. Slninn was begun in 1807, and was consecrated Sep- tember 13, 1874, by a rontifu-al High Mass, nt which 7 bishops and 30 ]tricsts af i-.ted. It is in the I{oman Uasilica style, 170 by 70 ft. in area, and is buii', of blue limestone and brick. On the facade, between the tall S(piaro towern ' To Gaelic inscrii)tion, Tltjhe Dhe ("the House of God"). Tho ar -he I /oof V sujiported by 14 Corinthian colunnis, and the interior lias ir.it ier(iu- "> "iii V)ws of stained glass. The costly chancel-window rop- '•oscii's t'hrl! t, t •' Virgin Mary, and St. Joseph. There is a largo organ, r .' iVm.' 1 cltiT . >f bells named in honor of St. Joseph and the Scottish saims, !si».*\'», Coluniba, and Margaret, (iueen of Scotland. Stiijjca run from Antlfjonish S. to Shorbrooko and S. E. to fluysborough (boo Routo 'jy). N. W. of the villajic an; the bold and picturcscine highlands known an th(! AiitlKoiiiHh Mt«., pi'ojectinji? from the ponenil line of the coast about Ifj M. N. into the (iiilf. They are, in some places, 1,()(K) ft. hi^fli, and have a strong and well-marked mountainous character. Semi-weekly .xtaj^es run N. from Aiitij;oni.'rKt>, on which, 400 ft. abovo tho sea, is a powerful n^volvinj? white linlit, which is visible for 25 M. at sea. From this point a road runs 8. \\. to Malii;iiaittCorf, which is also accessible by a roman- tic road through tho hills from Antigonish. This is a small sea.sidu hamlet, which derives its name from tho fact that II. IJ. M. fri);ato Mtiliiiiiant wa-s once caught in these narrow watcn' durinj^ a lieavy storm, and was run ashore hero in order to avoid being dashed to pieces on the iron-bound coiist beyond. 4-5 M. Iwyoud tho Cove is ArlsalK« ^ romantically situated settlement of Scottish Cathoiics, who named their new homo in memory of Arisaig, in tho W'estorn Highlands. It lias a long wooden iiier, under who.so lee is tho only harbor and shelter against cost-winds between Autigouish and Merigouish. The Canso stage leaves Antigonish after dark, and after running 9 M. out and crossing the South River, reaches Poinqiut Forks, a Franco- Scottish Catholic village of 400 inhabitants. 4-5 M. X. is another seaside hamlet. The new Catholic Church of the Holy Cross was consecrated at Pomquet in 1874. The next station is Traoadie, a French village of 1,800 inhabitants, situated on a small harbor near St. George's Bay. There is a ^ AntiyonUh,— accent on tho last syllabic. It is an Indian word, meaning "the River of Fish." 110 Route J2. TilACADIE. I> woaltliy monastcn* lioro, pcrtainin;? to the nnstoro order of the Trappists. Most of tlie monks arc from r)cl;^iniii. TlK-rt' is also u Coiivciit of Sisters of Charity. Tlie people of Tracadio beloiip to the old Acatiiaii race, whoso sad and romantic history is alluded to on pap;c^ lo8 and 113. "v\nd now wc passed throuj^h another French settlement, Tracadic, and apain the Norman kirtle and petticoat of the pastoral, Idack-oyed Kvangelinc ap- pear, and then i)ass like a day-dream." (C«)Z/.i:ns.) 'I'he road is now narrowed between the hills and St. Georj^o's Bay, and it is beyond niidnijiht. 15nt the exhausted traveller cannot sleep on this rufTf^ed track, and can only watch the stars or the moon and think how "these splendors burn and this panorama passes night after ni^lit down at the end of Nova Scotia, ami all for the stage-driver, dozing along on his box, from Antigonish to the Strait." At Port Mulgrave the Strait of Canso is reached, and passengers bound for Cape Breton are here ferried aci'oss. The Strait of Canso, see page 142. rm It; it'; m T CAPE BRETON. bound I? Tho island of Capo Drctnii is about 100 M. lonp by 80 M. wide, nnd has an area of 2,000,000 acres, of which 800,000 acres consist of hikv»s and swamic*. Tlic S. piirt is low ami pojiorally h'vcl, ?/ut tho N. portion is very irroirnlar, and leads otfiiito uii(>xpIo'-'>d highlands. The chief navurai peculiarities of the ishind are the Syiliiey coal-fields, which cover 250 square miles on the E. coast, auliuid of Cape Breton" (London : 18t;9) will bo of interest to the touri- cniif^ratcil to Cape Hrctoii ; iiiul in August, 1714, tho fortress (>f I.ouishourfr was founilo.l. Durinj; tlic noxt Jialf-cNMitury ornirrcd tlie t»'rril»Io wars hotwoon Franco anil (Iroat Britain, wlio^e chief iiiciilt'iits woro the sicpos of Loui^lionrcj ainl the (uiai dfinoli- tion of tliat rcdonlitalilt' fortress. In l"t!') tliis i>lanil was aiinoxi'il to tho I'rovint-e of Nova SiMttia. In 1784 it was crcctotl into a scpanitc IVovinco, anil fontinuod ns such until 1S20, wlicn it was rcannoxod to N'ovu Scotia. In 1S15 Cape Uroton had al'out 10,000 iidiahitants, hut in IsTl its jiopnla- tion anv'untcd to 7i>/>03, a large proportion of whom were IVoni tho Scot- tish Highlands. 33. The Strait of Canso. The Cut of Canso, or (as it is now jnoro generally ealleil) the Strait of Canso, is a picturesipie ])assape which connects the Atlantic Ocean with tho Cnlf of St. Lawrence, an claimed that more kccis pass thronph this channel every year than through any other in the world except the Strait of (iili- riiltar. It is not oidy the shortest passage hetween the Atlantic and the (lulf, l)Ut has the advantage of anchorage in case of contrary winds and had weather. The shores are hold-to and free from danger ,id there are sev- eral good anchorages, out of tlie current and in a modei,,ie depth of water. The stream of the tivpnil Hmnsninl sniliii)»-Ti'ss(l»' every venr.iind nl'«i> tiy tiie l;ir(re stetiiners nt'tlie lln^tiiM Mini Cnlniiiiil Stiam.«lii|i ('iiiii|iiiiiy , mill (as '.:ir US Tort ll:i\\ke>lMir.\ ) liy tlie ve.«.-els tiling' in Aiiieiiia.' And, iieli el.Caiiseaii «uii have my feelile f<-*timoM\ in ediirtnnalioii. It is ii praii.l marine hi^'lnvay, liav- init steeji hil!« on Hie Tape Hretoii Island ^il|e, and jiitty inotintaiiis on the other slum* : II fill!. Iinvul, mile-wide spare hetweeii them ; a»:irrtaeliinK,froin end to cud, flftifn miles, fnaii the Atlantic to tiio (iulf of St. I.awren 'O." (('u/.ZENS.) Vessels from the S , hound f01>ul;i- ic Scot- i tr» wcnthor, nivl r.- 8 M. in stormy wouthor and n,2;ainst the wind. On the 1. is CMu'dabucto Usiy, strotcliing in to (Jnysboron;,'!!, lined ftlonfj its S. shore by hills 3-700 ft. iiigh; uml on the r. the IsK' Muilaino is soon Mpproaohod. 28-;j0 M. bcvoiid ("iipc Can-^o lliP vessel passes l-AUhj Point, on whieh aro two fixed wliite li;,'hts (visible >> M ). (in the starboard beam is .lanvria Island, beyond which is the broad estnary of Habitants Bmj. On the Cape-Brett)n shore is the hamlet of Bear I'oiiit, and on the 1. arc Melford Creek (with its ehnroh), Steep Creek, and Tirato's Cove. The hamlets of I'lirl Muljii-ave and I'ort Hawkesbnry are now seen, nearly opposite each other, ami half-way up the strait. Port Mulgrave (two inns) is a village of about 400 iidiabitants, on tho Xova-Seotia side of the strait. It is cngaped in the lislicries, and has a harbor which remains open nil the year round. Gold-lx'arim: (piartz is found in the vicinity; and l)old hills tower above the shore for a lon«,' dis- tance. A steam ferry-boat plies between this j)oint and Tort Hawkesbnry, l.i M. distant. Port Hawkegbury ( Ilmrkf^lmrij Ifntd, comfortable ; Acadia Hotel) is n vill:i;;e of about 7oO inhai)itants, on the Cape-lJreton side of the strait. It is situated on Ship Harlior, a snug haven for vessels of 10-ft. draught, markeil by n fixeil red light on Stapletoti Point. This is the best harbor on the strait, and has very good hnldiiig-grouiid. The village is of a scat- tercil and lialf-tinished iippearance, and has two small cluirchcs. Tliero are several wharves hen>, which are visitcil i)y the lUtston and tho rriiico ICdward I^laml steamers, and other lines. Stages run hence to Sydney, Aricliat, and \Ve>t Hay, on the Bras d'Or; and a railway has been sur- veyed to the latter point. The I'an! from I'ort Hawkesbnry to Charlotte- town, by the ve-sels of the P. K. 1. Steam Navigation Company, is $3 50. Port Hastings (more generally known as Plaster Cove) is about 4 M. above Port Hawke-bury, on tho Cape-Breton shore, and is built on tho binds over a small harbor in which is a (iovernment wharf. From this peint the Capc-llrcton mails are di,stri!)nte(l through the island by means ofiiiC stage-lines. I'lie village is alxait the size of Port Hawkesbnry, and has a lucrative count ry -trade, besides u large exportation of lish and cat- tle to Newfoundlniiil ainl tiic I'lnted Stales. It derives its chief interest from lieing the point where the Atlantic-l'able Company transfers its mes- »iages, received from all parts of Kuropo and tlelivered under the sea, to the H'estern Union Telegraph Compiiay, by which the titlings are sent away through the Homiiiioii and tlu! rriited States. The telegraph-onico is in a long two-story buildii'g near the strait, and '20- 30 men are em- jdoyed therein. The h(»tel at this villiige has been. justly execrated in sev- eral books of travel, but occupies a noble situation, overlooking, from a high blnlV, the Strait of Cunso for several miles to tho S. K. Near this building is tho consulate of the United State?, over which floats tho flag of the IJcpublic. [; I /;t ^■'' I 144 72o./^e 23. CANSO. Nearly opposite Port Ilnstlnps is tlie l)okl and sliappy headland of Cope Porcupine, attaining a height of G40 ft., and contracting the strait to it3 narrowest part. Tlic stream now widens slowly, with lG-20 fathoms of water, and at its N. entrance (W. side) the steamer passes a lighthonsc, vhich sustains a powerful fixed white light, 110 ft. above tlic water, and visible from Cape St. George to Tort Hood. Canso W11.S in the oiirlior d.iya called Canipsfnu, or Cnn^rnu, nnil tlio word is aorivcd from tlic liuliaii CdVisoke, which siiriiilics " faciri}; the fmwniiip clirTs.'' U is also {lainicd that tlic iiainc is ih rived IVoi'i the Spanish word (lanso, si^nifvinK "Kfose," in allusion to tlu- jrreat Hocks of wild p-eso so:i\efinies seen hero. Hero tlu> Mieinac traditions locate the nmrvellous transit of tho divine (iloosi'sip (^■ee paRc lot)), wiio was stoppi'd by these deei) waters while on his way to attack a niiglity wiz- ard in Newfoundland. Ho sununoncd from the sea a whale, who bore him ueros.s the strait, like a new .Vrion, and landed him on the Hreton sliore.s. For many years the Strait of Canso was culled the I'dssniir de Fronsar, on all the old V'rench maps and charts, in honor of the Sieur d(! Fronsae, the able aiid enter- prising? Governor of «'a]ie Ihcton ; and in L'llS, over a century Viefore Plynionth was founded, it was visiti-d by the Itaron de Lery, who designed forniinf; a fottlement on the.se shores, and left a considerable nnndier of 8wine and cattle here. Savaletfe frequenteil this vicinity, for thi' purp(jses of fishinir. from the yi'ar ladi-j : and in mA De Monts found hero four lia.Miuo ships (from St. Jean de Luz) tnidinn with the Indians. Three years later a Dutch vessel entered ("anso, and excited the terri- ble hostility of the Indians by rilliiiL; the t^raves of their dead in order to strip off the beaver-skins in whi( h the (orpses were wriipjicd. Pontf^ravo cruised about these water.-* for a lon-j; time, iirotectii:^' the monoi)olized fur-trade. A fortress and rendezvous for fishermen was soon established n<'ar Cape Canso. ftt the harbor of Canso. In KISS the Caiuo station and the sedentary fishery were phnidered by an expetlition from Hostoii, consisting of a crew of West-Indian pri- vateersmen. They entered these waters in a lO-giUi vessel called a hnrrnloni^a, and carried away a French ship from tb<> harbor. After the coniiuest of Acadiii, the New-Kiifiland fishcrnu n occiiiiied the harbor of Canso, and erected dwi-llinfrs and warehouses. In 17'iO the settlements were attacked at night by jiowerful Indian bands, and comiiletely I'hnidered, though most of the fishermen escaped to their vessels They loaded several French vessels with the proceeds of the raiil, and tlnn n-tired to the forest. In 1722 the JMassacluisetts fishing-vessels were captured liere by tlie Indians, and were fnllowcd by arn;ed vessels of that Province, who retook them after a naval battle. II. .M. S. S, and II. M. S. FJiIhdii wiis kcjit in tlie Strait as a guard- pjup. In 1744 M. Duvivier attacked Canso at the head of t)70 men. Frencli Aca- tlians and Micmacs, and soon captured and destroyed it. In 174.') Peppereil reached Canso with 8 regiments of Massachusetts troops and Ncw-Iliim))shirc iiiid Connecti- rut regiments, and here he reniiiined for sonie weeks, diilling his men and erectitiB fortifications. At a later day Commodore u ujcn .rrived here with the Itritish West-lndiuu lleet, the t'uperb, GU, Lav„i '"», 5t), Mf,,i)aid, 40, Ellliam, uud other ships. The Briti.«li vvar-TCSsel JJtth Jnrk, G puns, vs :;; . 17H1, when slic met two M!!rble'..ead jjiivateers. Petit de tirnt, a shorc-battcry was formed, s. i;i? on her cable. -After n sharp action, one of the j Burrcnder, and the other nuulc- liaste to esc-ape. de (irat, and the vessel was taken to Quebec. After the close of the American Revolution, Cu S c nd of the Stniit of Cr iso wu.s Otciiiiied by a colony of Loyalists frem Florida, wlio sull'ered terribly fmni the cc-m- par.itive ii.clemency of the climate. Tie present inhabitants ot these shores arc mostly of Scottish descent, u biirdy and intrepid people. So late as the year 17b7 there was not one settler on th< lUeton side of the etrait, and the iuimigration has iiiobtly occurred during tuc present century. •ru*.<'iii,;Rii ,( t the Strait of Canso In Se.M j iiii a *' vorable jiosition near . ci. !"r was ancliored with sjirings • ivt;.'( rs was crippled and force il to TL' ,' iiiericans were paroled at Petit ARICHAT. Route S4. 145 1 of Cope iiit to its tlmniR of plitlioupc, liter, and ho word is clilTs/' It sinnifviiif? icrc. iliTo ip (HOC p:i(?e uitjhty wiz- liim ucross on all the niirl ontor- yninnth wn8 ttk'iiu'iit on . SaviiU'tto r>nil tli< n ituiod horoiiy ) retook tlu-ni nd"rs liorc in ot vanso,anil Kn)rl:nid liad 'rv fisli worn litisli lind 1(K) it n« a Ruard- , Froncli Aott- |ioroll roacliod and Cfinnootl- 1 and oroctinp; li tlio Uritish i>«, and otlior [lit of Canso In jiosition noar >d witli sjiiinjTs 1 and flint d to urulod at Tftit t of Cr ;iso wua from tlio coni- oFf j'iiores arc the yt'ar 17b7 luiigratiou Lud 34. Arichat and Isle Madame. A. mail-stnfi;G runs dully from Port Hawkosbury to Arichat, 30 M. S. E., pa-ssins near tlie sea-shore hamlets of Caribacou and Lower River Inhab- itant:*, and approaching!; the Scottish village of Grand Anse. At the French llshiiif^-^ettlcMnent of Ontiul Dirjue, the passeiif^cr is ferried across the Lennox Passage, a long and picturesque strait which separates Isle Madame from the Hreton shores. Isle Madame is lU AI. in length from K. to W., and about 5 M. in breadth. Its surface is very irreijular, though of but moderate elevation, and the central pari, is occujjied by a small lake. It was settled over a century agVo cjuittod tliis country with uo regret, except that we must leave there so many miserable people." Arichat (two indifl''rent iims) is the capital of Richmond County, and is the most important lishing-station between Halifax and St. John's, New- foundland. It has over 1,000 inhabitants, most of whom arc of Acadian- French origin, and are connected in some way with the sea. The fisheries of which tliis port is the centre arc connected with the great ostablish- mcnts on the Isle of Jersey (in the Knglish Channel), like those »if Chcti- camp, Gaspt', and Paspcbiac. Tliere is also an American firm located here, engaged in the canning of lobsters. The town is scattered along the steep N. shore of a sj)aci()us and secure harbor, which is sheltered by Jerseyman Island, and is " capable of containing any number of the largest ships." The spacious Catholic churcli in the W. part of the town is pro- vided with a chime of bells, and is tlio seat of the Coadjutor Bishop of Arichat, whose diocese includes Cape Hioton and the E. countiof of Nova Scotia. It is claimed that "The Sisters of the Congregation of Xotro Dame, of Montreal, have a grand ami fiourishing academy for female edu- cation of the highest order in the town of Arichat." E. of the cathedral is the Richmond County Court-House, stu'tnounted by a cupola. There are also an English academy and an Anglican church in the town. Op the S. W. is seen the lighthouse, bearing a fixed red light, which guides mari- ners through the Crid Passage and into the harbor. To the W. is the settlement o( Little Arichat, extending along tho coast for several miles, and having undeveloped coal deposits. There are over 1,600 itthabitants in this town, all of whom arc Ftvnch. 3-4 M. E. of Arichat is the Acadian fishing-hauilet of Prtlt dc drat, with nearly 2 000 inhabitants; and D' Kscomse is another phico of similar pursuits, ou the c iher side of tho Bay of Rocks. 7 J •i\ 14G Route 35. ST. PETER'S. i 1^ w: V' 1i 4 : ; j 35. The Strait of Canso to Sydney, G. B. By the icatj of the land, throuyh St. Peter''s. The Royal mnil-stnpo leaves Port Ilnwkesbury every morning, some time after the nrriviil of tiie Antigonish Ktnge, and runs K. ami N. E. to Sydney. Fare, !? 6. This is one of the mo.«t arduous routes by which Sydney ean he approaclu-d, and leads through a thinly Hettied and uniuterestinp lountry until St. I'eter's is reached. JJeyond that point there is a series of attractive views of the Great Bras d'Or and St. Andrew's Channel, eontinuiiiL' iiimost to Sydney. I>lNtaiioe)!i. — (I'ort Hastings to Port llawliesbury, 4-5 M.) Port Ilawkesbury to Oraud Ansc, 21 M. • St. Peter's, 35 ; lied Isiuud, 52; Irish Cove, G4; Sydney, 100. There is but little to interest the traveller during the first part of the journey. After leaving Port Ilawkosbury, the stage enters a rugged and unpromising country, leaving the populous shores of Canso and pushing K. to the River Inluibilants. Crossing that stream -where it begins to nar- row, the road continues through a region of low bleak hills, with occasional views, to the r., of the deeper coves of the Lennox Passage. Before noon it reaches the nnrrow Ilaulover Isthmus, which separates St. Peter's Bay, on the Atlantic side, from St. Peter's Inlet, on the Bras d'Or side. At thi.", point is situated Uie village of St. Peter's (two inns), a Scottish settlement near the bay. The canal Avhicli has been constructed here to open com- munication between the Atlantic and the Bras d'Or is «J M. long, 26 ft. wide, and 13 ft. deep, and Js expected to bo of much benefit to the Bras d'Or villages. It has been finished within a few years, and pertains to the Government, which takes a small toll from the vessels passing through. S. E. of St. Peter's are the bluif heights of Mt. Granville, and to the N. W. arc the uninhabited highlands which arc called on the maps the Sporting Mts. St. Peter's was founded by M. Dcnys, about the year 1636, to command the lower end of the Bras d"Or, as his post at St. Anne's commanded the ujtper end. He built a portage-road here, ojiened farm-lands, and erected a fort which mounted several cannon. Tlie Indians residing on the most remote arms of the Bras dOr were thus enable* captured and iilundereJ by Col. Jloulton's Massachusetts regiment. In 1752 St. Peter's was the cliief depot of tlie fur-tnide with the Micmacs, and was sur- rounded with fruitful farms. It was then called Port Toulousf, and was connected witli Louisbourg by a military road 18 leagues in length, constructed by the Count do llnymond. Besides tbc garrison of FnMich troops, there was a civil population of '2i](} souls ; and in 17(K) Port Toulouse had grown to be a larger town than even Louisbourg itself. The King of Prance afterwards reprimandel the Count do Rjiy- mond for construcring his military road, siying tliat it would afford the English an op|Kirt,unity to attack Louisbourg on the landward side. From the Strait of Cunso to (Irand Bi.cr the coast is occupied by a line of humblo and retiix'd villages, inhabited bv Acadiiin-Fk-ench fishermen. 7-8 M. S. E. of St, iVrcr's Rve the UArdoise settlements (so named because .a slate-quarry was once Worked here). In 1750 theio wus u large French village here, with a garrison of THE BRAS D'OR. RmiteSS. 147 mo nftor the ,!?5. This I, and leads irt reached. dOr und St. Iliiwkesbury j4 i Sydney, )art of the uf^ged and nd puslilng skills to nar- I occasional 5efore noon eter's Bay, de. Atthi.« I scttleiTicnt open corn- long, 2G ft. to the Bras rtains to the ng through. the N. W. lie Sporting ind the lower nd. IIol>uilt unted Hcveral Or were thus rortf". Denys was captured lys retook his . Peter's was ho, however, ere destroyed nmandunt at city, in 174r), i-nt. In 1752 and was sur- as crnnocted by the Count il populiition m than even innt de IlJiy- le English an ne of humble I. S. E. of St. rry was onco II garrison of troop.1, and L'Ardolsc was tho chief depot of the fur-tnulc with the Indians. At Grand Ilivor the cliaracter of the population chanjjes, tliough tlie names of tlic set- tlcineiit would indicate, were history silent, tliat the towns beyond that point were orijjiniilly founded by tlie French. They are now occupied exclusively by tlie Scotch, wliose liRlit vessels put out from the harbors of (irand River, I/Archeve(iue, St. Esprit, Blancherotte, Framboise, and Fourchu, on which are tishing-villages. A few miles N. E. of St. Peter's the stage crosses the Indian Reserva- tion near Louis Cove. Chapel Island is a little way otT shore, and is tho liirgest of the group of islots at tlie mouth of St. Peter's Inlet. These Islands were granted by the governmo'it, in 1792, to the Micmac chiefs Buslv and Toirima, for the use of their tril)e, and have ever since been re- tained by their descendants. On the largest island is a Catholic chapel ■where all the Micmacs of Cape Breton gather, on the festival of St. Anne, every year, and pass several days in religious ceremonies and aboriginal games. Beyond this point the road runs N. K. between Soldier's Cove and the bob! highlands on the r. and traverses the Red-Island Settlement, off ■wliich are the Red Islands. " The road that skirts the Arm of Gold is about 100 M. in lenRth. After leaving Sydney you ride beside the Spanish Uiv-^r a short distance, until you come to the portage, which separates it from the lak?, and then you follow the delicious curve of the great beach until you arrive at St. IVtwr's There is not a lovelier ride by white-pebbled be;ich and wide stretch of wave. Now we roll along amid.st pri- meval trees, — not tho evergreens of the sea-cojust, but familiar growths of maple, beech, birch, and larches, juniper, or liackmatack, — imi)erishable for shijjcraft ; now we cross bridges, over sparkling brooks alive with trout and salmon To hang now in our curricle, upon this wooded lull-top, overlooking tho clear surface of the lake, with leafy island, and ix-ninsula dotted in its depths, in all its native grace, without a touch or trace of handiwork, far or near, save and except a single spot of sail in the far-off, is holy and sublime." (Cozzexs.) About 10 M. beyond the Red Island Settlement is the way-office and vil- lage at Irish Cove, whence a road runs 10-12 M. S. E. across the highlands to the Grand-River Lake, or Loch LoinonJ, a picturesque sheet of water 5-G M. long, studded witli islets and abounding in trout. The Scottish luimlots of Loch Lomond and Lochside are on its shores; and on the N., and connected by a narrow strait, is Loch Uist. The road crosses tho lake and descends to Framboise Harbor, on tlie Atlantic coa.st. N. of Loch Uist, and about 7 M. from the Bras d'Or, i^ a remarkable saline .Tring, containing in each gallon 343 grains of chloride of sodium, 3is Wilkinson, Wood, & Co., Halifax, N. S. Tlic Virgo is much hotter adapted for carrying passengers tliau is tlie George l^iattuck. Halifax Harbor, see page 93. 'J'he course of the steamship is almost always within sight of land, a cold, dark, and rock-bound const, ofT which are submerged ledges on which the sea breaks into white foam. This const is described in Routes 28 and 29; but of its nspect from the sea the Kditor cnn say nothing, as ho was obliged to traverse the route as far as Canso by night. After passing the bold headland of Cape Canso, the deep bight of Ched- nbucto Bay is seen on the W., running in to Guysborough and the Strait of Canso. Between Cape Canso and Red Point, on Cape Breton, the open- ing is about 30 M. wide, inside of which arc Isle Madame (Route 34) and St. Peter's Bay. The course of the vessel, after crossing this wide open- ing, converges toward the Breton coast, which is, however, low and with- out character, nnd is studded with white fishing-hamlets. St. Espnt is visible, with its little harbor indenting the coast. A^iout the middle of the last century the British frigate Tilbury ^ G4, was caught O'. ..lis shore during a heavy gale of wind, and was unable to work oil', in sjiite of 11)0 utmost exertions of lier great crew. Tlie Tilbury Rocks, off St Esprit, sfill rommemoratc the place where sh.' fiiuilly struck and went to jdeces. 2(J0 sailors v<'re either drowned or killed by being da.''hed on the sharp rocks, and 200 men and ].") nlllcers were saved from the waves by the Frencli peopli' of St. Esprit, who nour- ished and sheltered them with tender earc. Engl;ind and France being thou at war, the survivors of the Tilburj/\i crew were despatched to France as prisoners, on the Fiencli frigate Hinniane. This vessel was, however, captured in the English Chan- nel, and the sailors were released. Beyond St. Esprit the coves of Framboise and Fourchu make in from CAPE BRETON. Route 30. 149 > (4 M. flis- il IJscnso7}i, ic l)!iy now I'lpfoou of 111(1 Indian, ajjo c Ai^sos the Forks i'ort llawkcs- , Icfives Ilal- !o Uoutc 50). on nUcrnnto ) Svdiioy, fS 8 ) Sytliicy ftiicl s of stnrting, uttor uduptvti it of land, a 1 ledges on 1 in Routes nothing, as iht of Clied- l the Strait 11, the opcn- lute 34) and 1 wide open- w and with- it. Esp^'it is 1, was caught >1V, in Fplte of t Ejiprit, dfiU i. 200 sailors 200 uiL-n and it, wlio nour- : then at war, oners, on the luglitfb ChoQ- ko in from ^ the sea, and above the deep inlet of dabarus Bay the lighthouse of Louis- bourg (sec Koutc 38) may perhaps be seen. In 1744 the French ships Notrf Dame 'If la Delirrnnrr, Louix f.rnxmf, and Marquis d'Antin nailed from Caliao (I'eru), with a vast amount of treivsun* on IxNinl, con- cealed under a surfa<'e-car;;o of cocoa. Tiie two latter were capi ured otT the Azores by the IJritisli privateers ^rinre Fmlerirlc and Diikr, hut during tiie 3 liours' action the Sotrc Ihiiiif escajied. Not dirinj; to approach the Frencli coa-st while fo many hostile privateers were crnisinn about, she crowded all sail and horo away for Louis- bourn. 20 days later she si}?hUoolt al.'out Ca|H! ISrtton. Tlie lucky ves.sels (liat made the capture were the Sunderland, Boston, and CheMtr, ond their crews had great priw-money, — for over $4,000,000 was found on tho Noire Dnine, in l)ars and ingots of gold and silver. In IToO tl»u French frigat(! Arr-t n-Ciel, 7^^, and tlic Awiiii were captured in theso waters by 11. H. M. ships Cmturionnml Success. In .luly, IToO, the Frencli ve.xsels Jliros, 74, llluslre, ti4, and two ;j)-gun frigates met II H. M. siiips Grafton, 70, Not- tinifliam, 70, ami the Jauiitira sloop, and fought fron> mid-afternoon till dark. Tho action was indecisive, and each tlect claimed that tlie otlicr stolo :.way at njgiit. Tho loss of men on Ixith sides was con; iderable. In May, 1745, a gallant nav.il action w.ls fougiit hereabout.^ l)etween tho French «hip-of-the-line Vigilant and Com. >Varn'n's tieet, consistiTig of the .S';/pnaitl,in\il /v7/ia;>n40-gun frigates). The Vigilant was carrying a supply of military g(r)ds from Hrest to Louishourg, and nu-t the M'r- innid, standing olT and on in the fog. Tho latter nuide sail and Med toward tho Fijuadron, and the Viaitnnt swept on in the fog and ran into the midst of tlie Uritish lleet. Warren's ships ojH'ned fire on every side, but tho French captain, tho Marquis de Maisouforte, n-fused to ."urrencler, though his decks were covered with stores and his lower ltatterie.^ wen- beiow the water-line by r«'ason of the heavy cargo. The l)attlo was terrilic, ami lusted for 7 hours, while Maisonforto kept \\\A colors flying and his cannon roaring until all his rigging was cut away liy tlio liritisli Bhot, the rudder was l)r<>ken, tho forecastle battered to pieces, and great numbers of the crew wounded or dead. The steamsiiip now runs out to round Scatari, traversing waters which maintain a uniform depth of over 30 fathoms. On the W. is the promon- tory of Cape Breton, from which the island receives its name. It is a low headland, off which is the dark rock of Torto Nuevo Island. There is an old French tradition to the efr««ct that Verazmno, the eminent Floren- tine navigator, landed near ('ape Ilreton on his last voyage, and attempted to found a fortilied settlement. Hut being suddenly attacked and overjwwered by the Indians, himself and all his crew were put to death in a cruel manner. It is known to his- tory that tliis discoverer was never heard from after leaving Franco on his last voy- age (in iry25). It is believed that Capo Breton was first visited by tho Marigold (70 tons). In 151*3; whereof it is written : '■ Here cMuers of our men went on land vpon the very cape, where, at their arriuall they found the spittes of oke of the Sauages which had roa.xted meat© a little ])efore And as tliey viewed the countrey they saw diners beastes and foules, as blacke foxes, dwres, otters, great foules with redde legges, pen- guines, and certaine others." Thence the Marigold sailed to tho site of LouLsbourg, where her crew landed to get water, but were driven off shore; by tho Indians. The cape probably owes its name to the fact of its being visited by tho Breton and Bius(iue fishermen, who in those days freqmnted these seas. Capo Breton was at that time a prosperous commercial city, near Bayonne, in the .''outli of France. It was fre(iuented by the Huguenots al)out this time, and had largo fleets engaged in tho fisheries. By the changing of tho course of the Adour River, and the ilrlfting of sand into its harbor, its maritime importance was taken away, and in 1841 it had but 920 inhabitants. { Dir.tionnaire Eiiriirloiiedi(fii<\) Ici 1U2!) Lord Ochiltree, the ion of the ilarl of Arran, come out with GO colouihtB, !'t.; '■ I . ■■•>; ,l„:: I i.l ii I \ww H I i. ii !:j ,]■ j ■ i ^i! :; !,'_ li t' 1 i (1 ' f : J: ^' f . I :f ■ i il || ! 150 IioHlc3G. S\T)NEY. nnJ fo»in; h(nl> of Nnrniaiis. The nnnor-clad Srotn U>i n tinio (lefciuU'd then* fort liravt'ly, hut w«'n> nl lu.stcon^pclliMl to surn-ndrr, nnd vito carried olf an iirisoners, inc■llldin^; l,ord Ochiltnc, wlio was plimdcri'd of ull lliiit lio possessed, and was pent to France in tlie liold of tiie (irial St. Aiidrnr. In li^T) tli(> Frenrli frijjnte Lr Vli(i)iifuii, (>(>, was wrecked on I'orto Niievo Island, and all on hoanl w<'re lost. Anions these nnfortnnate (leople were M. de Clia/.i I, Intendant of Canada ; M ile Loiivipny, (Jovernnr of 'J'rois i{ivi« res, nnnienius other colonial dijinitaties, and several ecclesiastics. " This niisfortnne in the course of ft sinplo nipht hronj^ht nK)re prief and loss upon the French colonics than thoy liad BUllered during '2M years of warfare." (Cuarlevoix. ) Soatari Island is about 5 M. N. E. of Ciipo Rretnn, and lies on the 4nili panillcl of N. latitude. It is a rock-bound island, 8 by 4 M. in area, and is II favorite resort of sea-birds. On the E. point is a powerful revolving white light, nnd on the W. end is a fixed red light. The Halifax and Syd- ney steamers sometimes run inside of Soatari, through tho Maiu-ii-Dieu (orMcnadou) Passage, near the obscure fishing-hamlet of Main-U'Dieu. N. nnd W. of Soatari is the wide, deep, and unsheltered Mira IJay. After crossing the broad mouth of Mira Bay, tho shallower bight of Cow Bay is seen on tho 1. The vessel steams to the X., by the dark and rug- ged rock oC Flint Island, and then runs about X. W. by the great coal-dis- tricts of (7/acei?«// and ZiH^rai (see Route 37). Rounding tho lighthouse on Low Point (or Flat Poiiit), she nsccnds Sydney Harbor, passing tho mines nnd villages of the Victoria Company on the 1., and the great shafts nnd works, hamlets and churches, gf the General Alining Association on the r. After running by the lighthouse on the S. E. 15ar, the opening of the W. Arm is seen, and the steamer soon reaches her wharf at Sydney. Sydney, formerly tho capital of tho Island-Province of Cape Breton, occupies a favorable position on one of the finest harbors on the Atlantic coast, and is the chief town of the island. It has about 2,800 iidiabitants, with G chui'chcs, 2 newspapers, a masonic hall, and the Court-Housc of Capo Breton County. Tho principal nrliclc of trade is coal, of which vast quantities are brought by railways to this harbor, vhenco they are sent away on vessels. Cattle and provisions nre also exported from this point to St. Pierre and Newfoundland. Near the water's edge is a white build- ing, suiTounded by balconies and adjoined by a broad pier nnd a flag-stalT. This little estate is the headquarters of tho French fleet in the North At- lantic, and is kept with true man-of-war's-man's neatness. There is usually n frigate of this fleet lying off the village, and their bands fre- quently play in the town. There is a pleasant view over tho harbor from the old fort on Barrack Point. It is usually said of a fair harbor anywhere in the Australian or Ameri- can colonies, that it "is capable of containing the whole British navy." This remark has been made concerning Sydney Harbor by the best authority, Cnpt. Bayfield, R. N., the murine surveyor who made the « ^ 4 i NORTH SYDNEY. Route 3G. 151 X\w Pdiict, 'fotH fdi' n, mill v»i>r('|UI/atteri<'S. Tho stnin^or in .*^vilni'y will In- iilile to see all that lu> cari-s to of tin- town in loss tlian an hour, for itisdt'voi'l of interest, notwithstanding tho prominont position which it liolds ia tho worltls nuirino intolli^'onoo and shippin;? news. Hydnoy is 750 M. fh)m New York.tKHt M. from Hoston, 240 M. from ilulifux, 400 M. from St. John's (N. 1'.), and 72u M. from (iiiohcf. Tho hotels at Svdnoy arc Arr/iibnli/\s and tlie //i^^rna^'o/irt/, both of which are small. .Mrs. Yonii;; al.so koops a coinfortahlo inn. Tho routes from Sydney to Hali- fax are by tho K:istorn .Steamship t'ompanys boat ; by tho Anplo-Krench SteaniHliip Company, fortnightly ; by tho Bras d'Or steamer, connecting with various lines at Port llawkesbury (see Kouto |0); or l>y stage and railway, tlirongli I'ort llawkesbury and Antigonish (sco Ilontos.T* and .TJ, rovor.soil). Tho Urius d'Orctoamer leaves Syd- ney send-weekly (see llouto 40) ; and a stonm ferry-boat crosses to N. Sydney tliroe times d:dly. Stages run several times weekly to tho coal-mines at Lingan, Littlo Glace Hay, and Cow Day see Koutc ^7) ; and also to Louisbourg (sec lluutu 38). North Sydney is 6- 8 M. N. W. of Sydney , with which it is connected by the steam ferry-boat Lndi/ of the FMke, making three trips daily. It is a busy and dingy little place, and has several tanneries, a shoe-factory, and the shii)ping-depnt^ of the Sydney coal-mines. There are several taverns, of the most inferior order. The marine-railway at this point has until recently been occupied by tho hulks and wrecked ves-scls which were left along the coast after the Lord's-Day Gale. About 4 M. N. W. is the I'rench Village on the Little Bras d'Or; and n road runs 30 M. S. W. over the iminhabited highlands of the peninsula of St. Andrews, to tho Grand Narrows, on the Bras d'Or Lake. The Iiarbor of Sydney wiis visited in 1587 by tlio English ship Tlopeioell, which drove out a lli^cayan ves ol and plundered all tho flsli-8ta.;os along tho shore. Many savages hero visited thi; ship, " among whom was their king, whose name was Itary, and tlioir queerio, to whom also we gaue coats and kniues and other tritles. Tlieso Sanages c;illod tho liarborow (Mho. In this place arc the greatest multitude of lobsters that ouor we hoard of ; for we caught at one hawle with a little draw net .abouo 140." This Iiarbor soon received the name of Baio des Espagnols, be- cause during the troublous times of tlie IGth century, it was the favorite resort of tho Spanish fishermen, as Louisbourg w itS of tlio English, and St. Add«'s of tho French. In 1G9G the Froncli frigates VEiivieux and Fro/ondy commanded by tlio valiant Iberville, entered the Iiarbor of Sydney, and summoned to its sliorofi the Indian warriors of Cape Mn^ton. A chosen force of Micmacs were soon embarked, and then they .sailed away to the destruction of I'omaquid. This was also the station of tho powerful French squadron under the Chevalier du Palais. Attor Admiral Wallcer's terribly disastrous voyage in the Gulf (in 1711), the remainder of his fleet wiw gathered together here, and it is said that the 42 war- vessels then a-ssembled formed tho most powerful naval armament ever seen in these waters. They lay in tho roadstead, abn-ast of Lloyd's Cove, and the Admiral had the following pompous in- scription erected on the shore : — " In niiiiiine Patris, FiUi,et Spirit 'is Sancti, Amen. Omnibus in Christi Fideli- bus Salutem. Anna, Dei Gratia-, Mo^'n. Britannia, Francite, et Hibernia^ Regina ; # IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) i.O I.I L£|2j8 |25 111 ■ 2.0 !^ IIIU 11.6 Photographic Sciences Corporatioii V 23 WiST MAIN STRUT WIBSTtt,N.Y. 14SM (716) 172^303 '4^ if pp i ! 1, 1 !' : 1 St ' J 1 1 i ' L 152 Routes?. THE SYDNEY COAL-FIELDS. Totiusque AmericcB Septentrionalis Domina, Fidei Defensor, etc. In Cujus harum insularum vulgo Cape Breton, Proprietatis et Dominii Testimonium, Hoc Erexit Monumentum, Sua>, Majestatis Servus, et Subditus Jidelissimus, D. Hovenden Walker, Equer Auratus, Omnium in America Navium degalium, Ptafectus et Thalassiarcha. Monte Septernbris, Anno Salutis MDCCXI." The first civil governor of Cape Breton after its severance from Nova Scotia (1784) was Major Desbarres. a veteran of the campaigns of the Mohawk Valley, Lake George, Ticonderoga, Louisbburg, and Quebec. One of his chief steps >ya8 to select a site for the new capital of the island, and the location chosen was the peninsula on the S. arm of the capacious harbor called Spanish River. The seat of government thus established was named Sydney, in honor of Lord Sydney, Secretary of State for the Colonies, who had erected Cape Breton into a separate Province. In the spring of 1786 the Loyalists under Abraham Cuyler (ex-Mayer of Albany, N. Y.) came from Louisbourg to Sydney, cut down the forests, and erected buildings. In 1781 a sharp naval battle was fought off Sydney Harbor, between the French frigates VAstide and L' Hermwne (of 44 guns each) and a British squadron consist- ing of the Cliarlestown, 28, Allegiance, 16, Vulture, 16, Little Jack,G, and the armed transport Vernon. 16 coal-ships which were under convoy of the British fleet fled into Sydney harbor, while the frigates rapidly overhauled the escort and brought on a general engagement. After a long and stubborn action, the Little /acA; surren- dered, and the remainder of the fleet would have shared the same fate, had it not been for the approach of night, under whose shelter the shattered British vessels bore away to the eastward and escaped. They had lost 18 men killed and 28 wounded. The senior captain of toe victorious French vessels was La Perouse, who started in 1788, with two frigates, on a voyage of discovery around the world, but was lost, with all bis equipage, on the Isle of Yauikoro. 37. The East Coast of Cape Breton.— The Sydney Coal- Fields. The Sydney Mines are on the N. side of Sydney Harbor, and are con- nected with N. Sydney by a '•c"! '•lilvvay and also by a daily stage (fare, 75c.). They are on the level land included between the Little Bras d'Or and the harbor of Sydney, and are worked by the General Mining Asso- ciation of London. Nearly 600 men are employed in the pits, and the vil- lage has a population of 2,600. The Interrational Mines are at Bridgeport, 13 M. N. E. of Sydney, and are connected with that harbor by a railway that cost $ 500,000. The sea- shore is here lined with rich cor 1-deposits, extending from Lingan Harbor to Sydney. It is probable that the submarine mining, which has already been commenced, will follow the carboniferous strata far beneath the sea. The Victoria Mines are W. of this district, and near Low Point, 9 JL from Sydney. The company has a railway which extends to their freight- ing station on Sydney Harbor, and is at present doing a prosperous busi- ness. The Lingan Mines are near Bridgeport, and are reached by a tri-weekly stage from Sydney (16 M. ; fare, $1.50). Lingan is derived from the French word L'Indienne, applying to the same place. It was occupied and fortified by the British early in the 18th century, and a garrison of 50 men was stationed here to guard the coal-mines. At a later day the French army at Louisbourg was supplied Avith large quantities of coal from this point, and several cargoes v/ere sent away. During the summer THE SYDNEY COAL-FIELDS. Route 37. 153 ■ujus harum Hoc Erexit . Hovenden PxBfectus et Scotia (1784) jake George, L'ct a site ifor ila on the S. nment thus State for the he spring of I came from i the French liun consist- d the armed Ish fleet fled brought on Jack surren- '; had it not ritish vessels '.led and 28 'erouse, who e world, but ey Coal- id are con- stage (faro, B Bras d'Or ining Asso- ind the vil- ydney, and }. The sen- ^an Harbor has already ath the sea. Point, 9 M. leir freight- lerous busi- , tri-weekly d from the LS occupied garrison of iter day the Lies of coal he summer m of 1752 the mine was set on fire, and the fort and buildings were all destroyed. The Little Glace Bay Mines are 18 M. from Sydney, and are reached by a tri-weekly stage (fare, $1). They are situated on Glace Bay and Glace Cove, and about Table Head, and are carried on by a Halifax com- pany, which employs 300 miners. The deposits are very rich along this shore, and extend far out beneath the sea. The Gowrie and Block-House Mines are on Cow Bay, and are among the most extensive on this coast. They are 22 M. from Sydney, and are reached by a tri-weekly stage. They employ over 600 men, and have formed a town of 2,000 inhabitants. Large fleets gather in the bay for the transportation of the coal to the S., and while lying here are in con- siderable peril during the previlence of easterly gales, which have a full s'',eep into the roadstead. Nearly 70 vessels were wrecked here during the Lord's-Day Gale, and the shores were strewn with broken hulks and many yet sadder relics of disaster. The S. portal of the bay is Cape Morien, and on the N. is Cape Perry, off which is the sea-i;urrounded Flint Island, bearing a revolving white light. The coal-beds of Cape Breton were first described by Donys, in 1672, and from 1677 to 1690 he had a royalty of 20 sous per ton on all the coal that was exported. Some of it was taken to France, and great quantities were sent into New England. In 1720 a mine was opened at Cow Bay, whence the French army at Louisbourg was supplied, and numerous cargoes were shipped to Boston. Between 1745 and 1749 the British garrison at Louisbourg was abundantly supplied with fuel from mines at Burnt Head and Little Bras d'Or, which were protected against the Indians by fortified outposts. The Abb6 Raynal says that there was " a prodigious demand for Cape-Breton coal from New England from the year 1745 to 1749." But this trade was soon stopped by the British government, and only enough mining was done to suoply the troops at Louisbourg and Halifax. The " coal-smugglers " still carried on a lucrative business, slipping quietly into the harbors and mining from the great seams in the face of the cliffs. In 1785 the Sydney vein was opened by Gov. IJes- barres, but its profitable working was prevented by heavy royalties. The Imperial Government then assumed the control, and its vessels captured many of the light craft of the smugglers. In 1828 the General Mining Association was formed in Lon- don, and secured the privilege of the mines and minerals of Nova Scotia and Cajjo Breton from the Duke of York, to whom they had been granted by King George IV. Under the energetic management of the Association the business increased rapidly, and became profitable. Between 1827 and 1857 (inclusive), 1,931,634 tons of coal were mined in Cape Breton, of which 605,008 tons were sent to the United States. Between 1857 and 1870 there were sold at the mines 3,323,981 ions. By far the greater part of these products came from the Sydney field, but of late years consid- erable exportations are being made from tho mines at Glace Bay, Cow Bay (Block- House), Gowrie, and Lingan. The Caledonia, Glace Bay, and Block-House coals are used for making gas at Boston and Cambridge, and the gas of New York is made from International, Glace Bay, Caledonia, and Block-House coals. ^1 i 154 Route 38. LOUISBOURG. 38. The Fortress of louisbonrgr. Louisbourg is reached (until the railway is finished) by a weekly stage from Sydney, in 24 M. A road runs hence 15 - 18 M. N. E. along an in- teresting coast, to Cape Breton (see page 149), passing the hamlets of Big and Little Loran, "named in honor of the haughty house of Lorraine." Cape Breton itself is nearly insulated by the deep haver of Baleine Cove, and just off its S. point is the rock of Porto Nuevo, rising boldly from the sea. Beyond the cape and the hamlet of Main-a-Dieu the Mira Bay road passes the hamlet of Catalogne (18 M. from Sydney), at the outlet of the broad lagoon of the Catalogne Lake, and follows the Mira River from the village of Mira Gut to the drawbridge on the Louisbourg road, where the farming hamlet of Albert Bridge has been established (12 M. from Sydney). A road runs hence S. W. 12 - 14 M. to Marion Bridge, a Scot- tish settlement near the long and narrow Mira Lake. The road ascends thence along the valley of the Salmon Eiv^r to the vicinity of Loch Uist and Loch Lomond (see page 147). Gabarus Bay is 8-10 M. S. W. of Louisbourg, and is a deep and spa- cious but poorly sheltered roadstead. It has a large and straggling fishi'ng- isettlemcnt, near the Gabarus, Belfry, and Mira Lakes. Louisbourg at present consists of a small hamlet occupied by fisher- men, whose vessels sail hence to the stormy Grand Banks. The adjacent country is hilly and unproductive, and contains no settlements. The har- bor is entered through a passage 10 fathoms deep, with a powerful white light on the N. E. headland, and is a capaciouc basin with 5-7 fathoms of water, well sheltered from any wind. On Point Rochfort, at the S. W. side of the harbor, are the ruins of the ancient French fortress and city. " The ruins of the once formidable batteries, with wide broken gaps (blown up by gunpowder), preFcnt a mt?lancholy picture of past energy. The strong and capa- cious magazine, once the deposit of immense quantities of munitions of war, is still nearly entire, but, hidden by the accumulation of earth and turf, now affords a com- modious shelter for flocks of peaceful sheep, which feed around the burial-ground where the remains of many a gallant Frenchman and patriotic Briton are deposited ; while beneath the clear cold wave may be seen the vast sunken ships of war, whose very bulk indicates the power enjoyed by the Gallic nation ere England became mistress of her colonies on the shores of the Western Atlantic, Desolation now sits with a gha.stly smile around the once formidable bastions. All is silent except the loud reverberating ocean, as it rolls its tremendous surges along the rocky beach, or the bleating of the scattered sheep, as with tinkling bells they return in the dusky eolitude of eve to their singular folds." (Montgomery Martin.) " If you ever visit Louisbourg, you will observe a patch of dark greensward on Point Rochfort, — the site of the old burying-ground. Beneath it lie the ashes of hundreds of brave New-Englanders. No monument marks the sacred spot, but the waves of the restless ocean, in calm or storm , sing an everlasting requiem over the graves of the departed heroes." (R. Brown.) The port of Louisbourg was called from the earliest times Havre d I'Anglois, but no important settlements were made here until after the surrender of Newfoundland and Acadia to Great Britain, by the Treaty of Utrecht. Then the French troops and inhabitants evacuated Placentia (N. F.) and came to this place. In 1714 M. de St. Ovide de Brouillan was made Governor of Louisbourg ; and the work of building tin fortress was begun about 1720. m THE FORTRESS OF LOUISBOURG. Route SS. 155 (veekly stage along an in- mlets of Big f Lorraine." laleine Cove, boldly from le Mira Bay the outlet of a River from road, where (12 M. from 'idge, a Scot- road ascends of Loch Uist eep and spa- gling fishing- ed by fisher- The adjacent ts. The har- jwerful white 5-7 fathoms , at the S. W. 5S and city. ;aps (blown up ;roDg and capa- ! of war, is still T affords a com- j burial-ground I are deposited ; i of war, whose Dgland became )lation now sits lent except the rocky beach, or rn in the dusky greensward on lie the ashes of ;d spot, but the quiem over the i I'Anglois, but r Newfoundland ench troops and 1714 M. de St. : of building th3 The powerful defences of " the Dunkirk of America " were hurried to completion, and the people of New England " looked with awe upon the sombre walls of Louia- bourg. whoso towers rose like giants above the northern seas." Over 30,000,000 livrcs were drawn from the French royal treasury, and were expended on the forti- fications of Louisbourg ; and numerous cargoes of building-stone were sent hither from France (as if Cape Breton had not enough, and little else). Fleets of New- England vessels bore lumber and bricks to the new fortress ; and the Acadians sent in supplies and cattle. For more than 20 years the French government devoted all its energy and resources to one object, — the completion of these fortifications. Inhabitants were drawn to the place oy bounties ; and Louisbourg soon had a large trade with France, New England, and the West Indies. iHl The harbor was guarded by a battery of 30 28-pounder8, on Goat Island ; and by the Grand (or Royal) Battery, which carried 30 heavy guns and raked the entrance. On the landward side waa a deep moat and projecting bastions ; and the great careening-dock was opposite. The land and harbor sides of the town were defended by lines of ramparts and bastions, on which 80 guns were mounted; and the West Gate was overlooked by a battery of 16 24-pounders. The Citadel was in the gorge of the King's Bastion. In the centre of the city were the stately stone church, nunnery, and hospital of St. Jean do Dieu. The streets crossed each other at right angles, and communicated with the wharves by five gates in the harbor- ward wall. The fortress was in the first system of Vauban, and required a large garrison. Early in 1745 the Massachusetts Legislature decermined to attack Louisbourg with all the forces of the Province ; and Gov. Shirley, the originator of the enterprise, gave the militai-y command to Col. Wm. Pepperell. Massachusetts furnished 3,250 men ; New Hampshire, 300 ; and Connecticut, 500 ; and George Whitefield gave the motto for the army, " Fll desperandum , Christo duce,''^ thus making the enterprise a sort of Puritan crusade. The forces were joined at Canso by Commodore Warren's West-India fleet, and a lauding was soon effected in Gabarus Bay. T'je garrison con- sisted of 750 French veterans and 1,500 militia, and the assailants were "4,000 un- disciplined militia or volunteers, officered by men who had, with one or two excep- i^ tions, never seen a shot fired in anger all their lives, encamped in an open country, .... and sadly deScient in suitable artillery." The storehouses up the harbor were set on fire by Vaughan's New-Hampshire men ; and the black smoke drove dowa on the Grand Battery, so greatly alarming its garrison that they spiked their guns and fled. The fort was occupied by the Americans and soon opened on the city. Fascine batteries were erected at 1,550 and 950 yards from the West Gate, and a breaching battery was reared at night within 'j50 yards of the walls. Amid the roar of a continual bombardment, the garrison made sorties by sea and land; and 1,500 of the Americans were sick or wounded, 600 were kept out in the country watching the hostile Indians, and 200 had been lost in a disastrous attempt at storming the Island Battery. Early in June, the guns of the Circular Battery were all dis- mounted, the King's Bastion had a breach 24 feet deep, the town had been ruined by a rain of bombs and red-hot balls, and the Island Battery had been rendered un- tenable by the American cannonade. On the 15th the fleet (consisting of the Superb, Sunderland, Canterbury, and Princess Mary, 60 guns each ; and the Launceston, Chester, Lark, Mermaid, Hector, and Eti/iam, of 40 guns each) was drawn up off the harbor ; and the army was arrayed " to march with drums beating and colours flying to the assault of the West Gate." Eut Gov. Duchambon saw these ominous preparations and surrendered the works, :d avoid unnecessary carnage. " As the troops, entering the fortress, beheld the strength of the place, their hearts for the H first time sank within them. * God has gone out of his way,' said they, 'in a re- markable and most miraculous manner, to incline the hearts of the French t^^ give up and deliver this strong city into our hand.' " Pepperell attributed his success, not to his artillery or the fleet of line-of-battle ships, but to the prayers of New Eng- land, daily arising from every village in behalf of the absent army. " The news of this important victory filled New England with joy and Europe with astonishment." Boston and London and the chief towns of America and England were illuminated ; the batteries of London Tower fire J salutes; and King George II. maue Pepperell a baroi.et, and Warren a rear-admiral. (For the naval exploits, see page 149.) 4,130 French people were sent home on a fleet of transports ; the 8iege-b.Ltterie3 were levelled, and 266 guns were mounted on the repaired walls ; and in the follow- ing April the New-England troops were relieved by two regiments from Gibraltar, and went home, having lost nearly 1,000 men. The historian Smollet designated -!■ ill i 1 * ii *' \m I'f l 1 1. I ; 156 Route 38. THE FORTRESS OP LOUISBOURG. the capture of Louisbourg, " the most important achierement of the war of 1745 " ; and the authors of the " Universal History " considered it " an equivalent for all the successes of the French upon the Continent." The siege is minutely described (with maps) in Brown's " History of the Island of Cape Brt-ton," pages 168-248. " That a colony like Massachusetts, at that time far from being rich or populous, Fhould display such remarkable military spirit and enterprise, aided only by the smaller Province of New Hampshire ; that they should equip both land and sea forces to attack a redoubtable fortress called by British officers impregnable, and on which the French Crown had expended immense sums ; . . . . that 4,000 rustic militia, whose officers were as inexperienced in war as their men, although supported by naval forces, should conquer the regular troops of the greatest military power of th« age, and wrest from their hands a place of unusual strength, all appear little short of miracle." (Beamish Murdoch ) So keenly did the French government feel the loss of Louisbourg that the great French Armada was sent out in 1746 to retake it and to destroy Boston. After the disastrous failure of this expedition (see page 99), La Jonquiere was despatched with 16 men-of-war and 28 other vessels, on the same errand, but was attacked by the fleets of Anson and W.irren off Cape Finisterre, and lost 9 ships of war, 4,000 men, and $ 8,000,000 worth of the convoyed cargoes. In 1749 the war was ended, Louisbourg and Cape Breton were restored to France, and " after four years of warfare in all parts of the world, after all the waste of blood and treasure, the war ended just where it began." When war broke out again between England and Prance, in 1765, Louisbourg was blockaded by the fleet of Admiral Boscawen. England soon sent 11 line-of-batMe ships, a squadron of frigates, and 50 transports, bearing 6,000 soldiers, to reduce the fortress ; but France was too prompt to be surprised, and held it with 17 sail of the line and 10,000 men. The vast English fleet got within 2 M. of Louisbourg and then recoiled, sailed to Halifax, and soon broke up, sending the army to New York and the ships to England. France then equipped fleets at Toulon and Rochfort, to reinforce Louisbourg ; but the Fon(iroyant,M, the Orpheus, M, and other vessels were captured. Six men-of-war and sixteen transports reached Louisbourg, with a great amount of military supplies. Great Britain now fitted out an immense fleet at Spithcad, consisting of the Namur, 90 guns ; Royal Williatn,80 ; Princess Amelia, 80 ; Terrible, 74 ; the North- umberland, Oxford, Burford, Vanguard, Somerset, and Lancaster, 70 guns each ; tlie Devonshire, Bedford, Captain, and Prince Frederick, 64 each ; the Pembroke, Kingston, York, Prince of Orange, Defiance, and Nottingham, GO guns each; the Centurion and Sutherland, 50 each; the frigates Juno, Grammont, Nightingale, Hunter, Boreas, Hind, Trent, Port Mahon, Diana, Shannon, Kennington, Scar- borough, Squirrel, Hawk, Beaver, Tyloe, and Halifax; and the fire-ship^ Etna and Lightning, There were also 118 transports, carrying 13,600 men, in 17 regiments. Bo;>pawen commanded the fleet, Amherst the army, and Wolfe was one of the briga- diers. This powerful armament soon appeared off Louisbourg, and at dawn on the 8th of June, 1758, the British troops landed atGabarus Bay, and pushed through the fatal surf of Fresh wa er Cove, amid the hot fire of the French shore-batteries. After losing 110 men they carried the entrenchments at the point of the bayonet, and the French fell back on Louisbourg. The fortress had been greatly strengthened since the ."siefe'e of 1745, and was defended by 3,400 men of the Artillery and the regiments of Volon- taires JEtrangers, Artois, Bourgogne, and Cambise, besides large bodies of militia and Indians. In the harbor were the ships-of-war. Prudent, 74 ; Entreprenant , 74 ; Capricieux, 64; Cilebre,Qi^; Bienfdisant,Qi; Apollon, 50; Diane, 3Q; Arithuse, 36 ; Fidele, 36 ; Echo, 32 ; Biche, l6 ; and Chivre, 16. Wolfe's brigade then occupied the old Lighthouse Battery, and opened fire on the city, the French fleet, and the Island Battery. The latter was soon completely de- stroyed by Wolfe's tremendous cannonade ; and since the harbor was thus left unguarded. Gov. Drucour sank the frigates Diane, Apollon, Biche, Fiddle, and Chdvre at its entrance. Meantime the main army was erecting works on Green Hill and opposite tbe Queen's and Princess's Bastions, under the fire of the French i-amparts and ships, and annoyed on the rear by the Indians. During a bloody sortie by the French, the Earl of Dundonald and many of the Grenadiers wore killed. The heavy siege-batteries were advanced rapidly, and poured in a crushing fire on the doomed city, destroying the Citadel, the West Gate, and the barrack.-*. The magazine of the Entreprenant, 74, blew up, and the Capricieux and Ccicbrc, the war of 1745 " ; equivalent for all minutely described pages 168-248. J rich or populous, aided only by the land and sea forces able, and on which ,000 rustic militia, 3ugh supported by ilitary power of the appear little short |^ mrg that the great Boston. After the ?as despatched with ttacked by the fleets ar, 4,000 men, and ; ended, Louisbourg rs of warfare in all the war ended just 765, Louisbourg was mt 11 line-of-battle Idlers, to reduce the t with 17 sail of the of Louisbourg and army to New York an and Rochfort, to 4, and other vessels Louisbourg, with a i 1, consisting of the frible, 14:; the Nortli- fter, 70 guns each; jch; the Pembroke, , 60 guns each ; the ntnont, Nightingale, , Kennington, Scar- fire-shipj Etna and len, in 17 regiments, vas one of the briga- t dawn on the 8th of led through the fatal itteries. After losing onet.and the French hened since the siege 5 regiments of Volon- ( bodies of militia and Entreprenant , 74 ; Diane, 36; Arit/iuxe, nd opened fire on the I soon completely de- harbor was thus left , Biche, Fiddle, and works on Green Hill le fire of the French 13. During a bloody the Grenadiers wcro poured in a crushing e, and the barracks. pricieux and Ceicbrc, THE FORTRESS OF LOUISBOURG. Route 38. 157 catching the fire \n their sails, were burned at their moorings. The Arithuse and Echo ran out of the harbor in foggy weather, but the latter was captured. Only two French frigates remained, and these were both captured by boats from the fleet, after a daring attack. On the 26th of July the Chevalier de Drucour surrendered the city with 5,637 men, 236 pieces of artillery, and immense amounts of stores and Bupplies. The French had lost about 1,000 men, the British nearly 600, during the ^'^In England rang with the tidings of the fall of " the Dunkirk of America," special prayers and thanksgivings were read in all the churches of the kingdom ; and 11 sets of colors from Louisbourg were presented to the King at Kensington Palace, whence they were borne with great pomp to St. Paul's Cathedral. Marine insurance on Anglo-American vessels fell at once from 30 to 12 per cent, because the French privateers were driven from the western seas by the closing of their port of refuge. In 1759 the great fleet and army of Gen. Wolfe gathered at Louisbourg and sailed away to the Conquest of Canada. Halifax was a fine naval station, and it was deemed inexpedient to maintain a cost'y garrison at Louisbourg ; so sappers and miners were sent there in the summer of 1760, and " in the short space of six months all the fortifications and public buildings, which had cost France 25 years of labor and a vast amount of money, were utterly demolished, — the walls and glacis levelled into the ditch, — leaving, in fact, nothing to mark their former situation but Leaps of stones and rubbish Nothing was left standing but the private houses, which liad been rent and shattered during the siege, the hospital, and a barrack capable of lodging 300 men All the artillery, ammunition, stores, implements, — in short, everything of the slightest value, even the hewn stones which had decorated the public buildings, were transported to Halifax." The British garrison was withdrawn in 1768, and after the foundation of Sydney " the most splendid town of La Nouvelle France " was completely deserted by its people. During a year or two past a scheme has been agitated whose fulfilment would restore Louisbourg to more than its former importance. It is proposed to construct a first-class railway from this point to some station on the Pictou Branch of the Intercolonial Railway, crossing the Strait of Canso either by a lofty suspension- bridge or a steam ferry-boat on which the trains would be carried. It is thought that the freight and passenger receipts from the coal-mines and the settlements on the territory traversed would more than defray the cost of construction and mainte- nance. The projectors then intend to make Louisbourg a port of call for the ocean- steamships, for whose use this safe and accessible harbor is peculiarly adapted. This port is on the 60th parallel of W. longitude, and is 11 degrees E. of Boston and 14 de- grees E. of New York, or so much farther advanced on the route to Europe. When the through railway is completed to Boston, Montreal, and New York, it is thought that most of the better class, at least, of transatlantic travellers would prefer to save time and nearly 1,000 M. of ocean-voyaging, by leaving or taking the steamship here. Extensive surveys have already been made in this vicinity, and real estate in Louisbourg has rapidly advanced in value. n ' t ;)' m 1 I rt i 'i 1 I ' ^! 158 Route 39. ST. ANNE'S BAY. 39. The North Shore of Gape Breton. — St. Anne's Bay and St. Paul's Island. Conveyances may be hired at Baddeck (see page 162) by which to visit St. Anne's. The distance is about 10 M. to the head of tlie harbor. Tho first part of the way leads along tho shores of Baddeck Bay, with the promontory of Red Head over the water to the r. The road then crosses a cold district of denuded highlands, and descends to the * Valley of St. Anne. As the harbor is approached, the traveller can see the amphitheati'ical glens in which the great Holy Fairs or annual religious communions of the people are held. These quaint Presbyterian camp-meetings are said to be a relic of the ancient churches in the Scottish Highlands. The shores of the harbor were occupied in 1820 by immigrants from the High- lands, who are now well located on comfortable farms. The road follows the S. Arm, and to the 1. is seen the N. Arm, winding away among the tall mountains. Just E. of the N. Arm is St. Anne's Mt., which is 1,070 ft. high, and pushes forward cliffs 960 ft. high nearly to the water's edge. " There is no ride on the continent, of the kind, so full of picturesque beauty and constant surprises as this around the indentations of St. Anne's harbor. High bluffs, bold shores, exquisite sea-views, mountainous ranges, delicious aii," are found here in abundance. About opposite the light- house on the bar, at the mouth of the harbor, is Old Fort Point, on which the French batteries were established. Near this point is the hamlet of Englishtown, chiefly interesting as containing the grave of the once famous "Nova-Scotia Giant." The mountains back of Englishtown ire over 1,000 ft. high, and run N. E. to Cape Dauphin, whence they repel the sea. Imray's Sailing Directions states that " on the N. side the land is very high, and ships-of-war may lie so near the shore that a water-hose may reach the fresh water." As to the harbo", the ancient description of Charlevoix still holds good : — " Port Ste. Anne, as already stated, has before it a very sure roadstead between the Cibou Islands. The port is almost completely closed by a tongue of land, leav- ing passage for only a single ship. This port, thus closed, is nearly two leagues in circuit, and is oval in form. Ships can everywhere approach the land, and scarcely perceive the winds, on account of its high banks and the surrounding mountains. .... The fishing is very abundant ; great quantities of good wood are found there, such as mrnle, beech, wild cherry, and especially oaks very suitable for building and masts "^ing 28-38 ft. high ; marble is common ; most of the land good, — iu Great and Little Labrador, which are only a league and a half off, the soil is very fertile, and it can contain a very large number of settlers." In St. Anne's Bay the English ship Chanr.ewell was wrecked in 1597, and while she lay aground " there came aboord many shallops with store of French men, who robbed and spoyled all they could lay their hands on, pillaging the poore men euen to their very shirts, and vsing them in sauagc manner ; whereas they should rather as Christians haue aided them in that distresse." In 1629 this harbor was occupied by the Great St. Amhew and the Marguerite, armed vessels of France, whose crews, together with their English prisoners, constructed a fort to command the entrance. It was armed with 8 cannon, 1,800 pounds of powder, pikes, and muskets, and was garrisoned by 40 men. The commander of the fleet raised the arms of the King and of Cardinal Richelieu over its walls, and erected a chapel, for whoso core he left two INGONISH. Route 39. 159 le's Bay and which to visit e harbor. Tho Bay, with the d then crosses a lley of St. Anne. amphitheatrical communions of ctings are said [ighlands. The from the High- 'he road follows way among the ■hich is 1,070 ft. mter's edge. 1 of picturesque ns of St. Anne's ntainous ranges, josite the light- Point, on which is the hamlet of the once famous htown are over ey repel the sea. the land is very water-hose may t description of roadstead between ngue of land, Icav- irly two leagues in land, and scarcely inding mountains. )d are found there, litable for building lie land good, — in off, the soil is very in 1597, and while r French men, who ;he poore men euen they should rather arbor was occupied fance, whose crews, nand the entrance. 1 muskets, and was ms of the King and ose care he left two Jesuits. He then named the harbor St. Anne's. Before the close of that winter more than one third of the troops died of the scurvy, and tho commandant assas- Binated liis lieutenant on the parade-ground. In 1634 the Jesuits founded an In- dian mission here, but both this and tho garrison were afterwards withdrawn. Some years later a new battery and settlement were erected hero by Nicholas Denjs.Sieur de Fronsac, who traded hence with the Indians of tie N. of Cape Breton. The valley of tho N. Arm of St. Anne's waa granted, in 1713, to M. de Rouville, a captain in the infimtry of France, and brother of that Hertel de Rouville who led the forces that destroyed Schenectady, Deerfleld, and Haverhill. The N. Arm waa long called Rouville's River. At a later day Costabelle, Bcaucourt, ^ubras, and other Flinch officers had fishing-stations on the bay. In 1745 a frigate from Com. "Warren's fleet (then blockading Louisbourg) entered the harbor, and destroyed all the property on its shores. St. Anne's Bay was afterwards colled Port Dauphin by the French, and the government long hesitated as to whether the chief fortress of Cape Breton should be located here or at Louisbourg. Tho perfect security of the harbor afforded a strong argument in favor of St. Anne's, and it seemed capable of being made impregnable at slight e:ipense. After the foundation of Louisbourg 1,000 cords of wood were sent to that place annually from St. Anne's. The road from the Bras d'Or to the N. shore of Cape Breton diverges from the St. Anne road before reaching the harbor, and bears to the N. E., along the W. Braach. It rounds the North-River Valley by a great curve, and then sweeps up the harbor-shore, under the imposing cliffs of St. Anne's Mt. From St. Anne's to Ingonish the distance is about 40 M., by a remarkably picturesque road between the mountains and the Atlantic, on a narrow plain, which recalls Byron's lines: — " Tho mountains look on Marathon, And Marathon looks on the sea." "Grand and very beautiful are the rocky gorges and ravines which furrow the hills and precipices between St. Anne's and Ingonish Equally grand and pic- turesque is the red syenitic escarpment of Smoky Cape, capped with the cloud from which it derives its name, with many a lofty headland in the background, and the peak of the Sugar-loaf Mountain jest peeping above the far-distant hori- zon." (Brown.) The proud headland of Cape Smoky (the Cap Enfumi of the French) is 950 ft. high, and runs sheer down into the sea. To the W. there are peaks 1,200-1,300 ft. high; and as the road bends around the deep bights to the N., it passes under summits more than 1,400 ft. higli. Among these mas- sive hills, and facing Cape Saoky, is the village of Ingonish, inhabited by Scottish Catholic fishermen, 800 of whom are found in this district. On the island that shelters the harbor is a fixed white light, 237 ft. above the sea, and visible for 15 M. Ingonish was one of the early stations of the French. In 1729 a great church was built here, whose foundations only remain now ; and in 1849 a church-bell, marked St. Malo, 1729, and weighing 200 pounds, was found buried in tho sands of the beach. The settlement hero was probably ruined by the drawing away of its people to aid in holding Louisbourg against the Anglo-American forces. In x740 Ingonish was the secoud town on the island, and its fleet caught 13,560 quintals of fish. It was destroyed, in 1745, by men-of-war from Com. Warren's fleet. The hig'aland region back of Ingonish has always been famous for its abundance of game, especially of moose and caribou. In the winter of 1789 over 9,000 moose were killed here for the sake of their skins, which brought ten shillings each ; and for many years this wholesale slaughter went on, and vessels knew when they wero approaching the N. shore of Cape Breton by the odor of decaying carcasses which came from the shore. Finally the outraged laws of the Province were vindicated by the occupation of Ingonish by a body of troops, whose duty it was to restrain tho ICO Route 39. ST. PAUL'S ISLAND. \ 'I H \ 1 i ' r 11 ii I \ moose-hunters at •whatever cost. Of late years the moose have been nearly cxfor. minatcd by city sportsnion nnd by tlio Indians, who kill them while helplessly en- tangled in the deep snow-drifts. The government bus tberefore wisely decreed that no moose shall bo killed between Sept, 1, 1874, and .Sept. 1,1877 ; and the possession of any moose meat or hides constitutes a penal olTeuce. The highway ends at Ingonish, nnd a trail crosses the mountains to the N. N. W. to Aspy Bay, an open bight of the sea, into which "several large lagoons empty. A specie-ship was wrecked off this bay early in the pres- ent century, and for many years coins were thrown ashore during heavy storms. In 1866 the first Atlantic Ca'^le r/as landed hero. On the N. W. shore of Aspy Bay is the lofty Sagar-loaf Mt., beyond which Cape North runs out to the N. E., 1,000 ft. high. Cape North is 8 M. S. E. by E. from Cape St. Lawrence, and between these two points is the St. Lawrence Bay, on whose remote shores arc about 400 inhabitants, while about Cape North arc nearly 800 more. Between Cape North and Cape Ray, Newfoundland, the distance is 65 M., and through tUis wide strait is the middle entrance to the Gulf of St. Lawrence. St. PauVs Island. St. Paul's Island is 13 M. E. N. E. of Cape North, and is a vast mass of rock, 3 M. long and 1 M. wide, bearing three peaks 500 ft. high, sur- rounded by tall cliffs which reach far below the water, and indented by the Trinity and Atlantic )ves. The cod, mackerel, and seal fisheries around the island are ver^- valuable ; and the adjacent waters are of great depth, and form a constant current to the S. E. St. Paul's Island has 9 inhabitants; a fixed white light (visible for 20 M.) on the N. point; a pro- vision depot for wrecked sailors in Trinity Cove ; a steam fog-whistle in Atlantic Cove; and on the S. point a revolving white light of the first class, visible for 20 M. This island has been one of the most fatal points on the Atlantic coast, stretching, as it does, across such an important route of marine travel. Thousands of lives have been lost here, and human bones formerly strewed the beaches, while anchors, chains, and other relics of disaster were found in the neighboring waters. Tli6 Acadians of Cheticamp used to visit the island every spring, in order to secure the valuable parts of cargoes and wrecks which the sea threw up on the shore. Among the largest of the vessels lost here we.e the Horatio, Canada, Duncan, Venus, a transport with 200 soldiers (all drowned), the ocean-steamship Norivegian, and the ship Jesiie. The latter was wrecked in mid-winter, and 30 of her people were lost ; but 11 reached tho shore, and wandered about until they were all frozen to death, ^Vith the prcserit system of lights, whistles, and cannon, mc3t of the danger of this island is removed. '^ A dome of inhospitable rock peers through the mist, one of nature's peniten- tiaries, which no living man would own, and so has been deeded to St. Paul : Melita is "Men to it. The saints, it appears to me, have been gifted with the ruggedest odds and ends. ^\Tierever, on all these cast-iron shores, there is a flinty promontory, upon which Prometheus himself would have shuddered to be chained, there the name of an apostle has been transfixed. Yonder is Cape North , the stony arrow- head of Cape Breton, a headland, rather a multitudinous group of mountain head- lands, draped with gloomy grandeur, against the black cliffs of which the surf is now firing its snowy rockets All in all, this is a fine termination of the pic- turesque isle. Steep and lofty, its summits are darkened by steepled evergreens, and its many sides gashed with horrid fissures and ravines." (L. L. Noble.) THE BRAS D'OR LAKES. Route 40. 161 ve been nearly cxfcr. rn while helplessly cn> re wisely decreed that '7 ; and the possession le mountains to the which several large ly early in the pres- shore during heavy ere. On the N. W. which Cape North M. S. E. by E. from e St. Lawrence Bay, le about Cape North lay, Newfoundland, :he middle entrance nd is a vast mass of 3 500 ft. high, sur- r, and indented by 1, and seal fisheries ; waters are of great Paul's Island has 9 the N. point ; a pro- team fog-whistle in te light; of the first antic coast, stretching, rhousands of lives have caches, while anchors, ghboring waters. Tli«f in order to secure the on the shore. Among da, Duncan, Vemts, a ip Nonvegiatt, and the f her people were lost ; ire all frozen to death. it of the danger of this le of nature's peniten- Jed to St. Paul : Melita (vith the ruggedest odda s a flinty promontory, be chained, there the orth, the stony arrow- oup of mountain head- Fs of which the surf is ermination of the pic- teepled evergreens, and L. Noble.) 40. The Bras d*Or Lakes. The " JnlnnrI Route"'' from Sii'lnnj to Halifax. The steamer Ntptune leaves Syd- ney on Tni'sdiiy and Thursday lit A. m., and traverses the entire length of the Bras d'Or, stopjilngat IJaddeck and other villages. A train of stages and wagons loaves the landing at West Hay, on . or arrival, and crosses to Port Ilawkesbury (1.3 M.), whence pas.songers pass to Pictou by steamer, and thence by milway to Halifax or St John. The fare from Sydney to Halifax is , j. ;• i I 1G2 Route 40. BADDECK. S. W. for nearly 30 M., between the mountains of St. Anne and the high- lands of Boulnrdcrlo. The Neptune soon traverses tlio narrow channel of the Little Bras d'Or and enters a broader bay. Beyond Grove Point it readies a beautiful sound which is followed for 25 M., and is 3-4 M. wide. (It is called St. Andrew's Channel on the Admiralty charts, but that name is elsewhere ap- plied to the East Bay.) Near George Mt., on the 1., are the low shores of Long Island ; and the steamer sometimes stops off Beaver Harbor, or Bois- dale. The con se is now laid towards the W. shore, rounds Kempt Head, the S. extremity of Boularderio Island, and passes Coflin Island on the r., beyond which is seen the long channel of the Great Bras d'Or. The course is nearly N. W., and lies between Red Point (r. side) and Mackay ''oint (1. Biuuj, which are about 3 M. apart. In front is seen the village of Baddeck, •while inside of the points Baddeck Bay extends to the r. and St. Patrick's Channel to the 1. Baddeck ( Telegraph Ilouse^ comfortable ; Bras (V Or Jlotel) is the capi- tal of Victoria County, and the chief village on the Bras d'Or. It has three churches, a court-house, and a quaint little jail, and is the centre of a group of farming-settlements whose aggregate population is 1,749, The harbor can accommodate vessels of 500 tons, and from this point several cargoes of produce- are annually sent to Newfoundland. Gold has been found in the vicinity, and there is a saline spring farther down the shore. This locality was first visited by the French, from whom it received the name Bedeque, ^\ncQ Scotticized to JBa(Z(/ecZ; (accent on the last syllable). It was first settled by the disbanded soldiers of the Royal Rangers, and in 1793 there were 10 inhabitants here. " Although it was Sunday, I could not but notice that Baddeok was a clean- looking Tillage of white wooden houpes, of perhaps 7 800 inhabitants ; that it stretched along the shore for a mile or more, straggling off into farm-houfea at each end, lying for the most part on the sloping curve of the bay. There were a few country-looking stores and shops, and on the shore three or four rather decayed and shaky wharves ran into the water, and a lew schooners lay at anchor near them ; and the usual decaying warehouses leaned about the docks. A peaceful and perhaps a thriving place, but not a bustling place " Having attributed the quiet of Baddeck on Sunday to religion, we did not know to what to lay the quiet on Monday. But its peaccfulness continued. I have no doubt that the farmers began to farm, and the traders to trade, and the sailors to Bail ; but the tourist folt that he had come into a place of rest. The promise of the red sky the evening before was fulfilled in another royal day. There was an inspira- tion in the air that one looks for rather in the mountains than on the sea-coast, it eeemed like some new and gentle compound of sea-air and land-air, which was the perfection of breathing material. In this atmosphere, which seems to flow over all these Atlantic isles at this season, one endures a great deal of exercise with little fatigue ; or he is content to sit still and has no feeling of sluggishness. Mere living is a kind of happiness, and the easy-going traveller is satisfied with little to do and less to see. Let the reader not understand that we are recommending him to go to Baddeck. Far from it. . •. . . There are few whom it would pay to go a thousand miles for the sake of sitting on the dock at Baddeck when the sun goes down, and watching the purple lights on the islands and the distant hills, the red flush on the horizon and on the lake, and the creeping on of gray twilight. You can see all this as well elsewhere? I am not so sure. There is a harmony of beauty about the BADDECK. Route JiO. 1G3 ! nnd the liigh- Ittlo Bras d'Or lies a beautiful It is called St. is elsewhere ap- low shores of Harbor, or Bois- Is Kempt Head, sland on the r., Or. The course ilackay ''oint (1. ago of Baddeck, ind St. Patrick's ttel) is the capi- as d'Or. It has I is the centre of m is 1,749. The lis point several Gold has been down the shore. 1 it received the the last syllable). 1 Rangers, and in Ideok was a clean- habitants ; that it "arm-houses at each There were a few four rather decayed lay at anchor near is. A peaceful and n, we did not know itinued. I have no , and the sailors to The promise of the h.ore was an inspirn- on the sea-coast, it -air, which was the ems to flow over all exercise with little hness. Mere livintr ith little to do and ading him to go to ,y to go a thousand sun goes down, and he red flush on the You can see all this f beauty about the Urns d'Or at Baddeck which is lacking in many sronos of moro prctcnalon." (Charles Dudlky Warner's Baddeck; and that Hart of Thing.) Tlic tourist wiio stops at Baddeck should visit the Indian village which occupies a grassy point near the town. It pertains to one of the clans of the Mlcmac tribe, and usually has 12-15 wigwams. Visitors are received with a not unkindly indiircrcnce, and may here study Indian domestic life, the curious manner of carrying babies, and the architecture of tho wigwam. Some of the people can talk Knglish. Tho visitor should en- deavor to see one of tho Micmac Catliolic prayer-books, printed (at Vienna) in a singular hieroglyphic, and bought by the Indians at tho Trappist mon- astery in Tracadie. T lie camp at Baddeck is broken up in tho autumn and the people retire to their reservations near tho hunting-grounds. The Micmacs of Nova Scotia and Cape Breton still retain many of their ancient customs, and are of purer blood than any other tribe on tho Atlantic coast. They number about 1,G00 (and 1,41X) in New Brunswick), and occupy several reservationa in tho Province, whore they are cared for and protected by tlic Dominion govern- ment. Under tills paternal care (stroniily contrasting with the Indian policy of tho United States) the aborigines are steadily Increasing in numbers and approaching a better standard of civilization, and are "loyal and useful subjects of their "great mother," Queen Victoria. Tho discipline of families is well preserved by the use of corporeal puninhmeiit. \Varm parental afl'ection is a strongly marked feature, and the subordination of tho women is still maintained, though ameliorated by the in- fluences of civilization. The Micmacs have exchanged their former belief in and worship of tho hostile principles of good and evil for tl- ^ creed of the Uomaa Cath- olic Church, of which they are devout communicantached by the Whyco- comagh road (Route 41). The valley haa over 1,000 inhabitants, of the Gaelic High- land race, many of whom are unacquainted with the English language. Near their bettlementa are prolific trout-streams, where fine sport may be enjoyed in the early summer. The chief settlements are respectively 12, 13, and 16 M. firom Baddeck, and near the head of the river is au undeveloped gold district. A few milea up this 1 I ■ 1 i .; ^1 i ^ . N 104 Route 40. THE BRAS D'OR. river ia " a Gaelic settlement of farmers The river here flows througl^ lovely mead- ows, sandy, fertile, and sheltered by hills, — a green Eden, one of the few peaceful inhabited spots in the world. 1 could conceive of no news coming to these Iligh- landers later than the defeat of the Pretender." in 1801 the total population of the Island of Cape-Breton was 2,513, including Englishmen, Acadiane, and Micmacs. In 1802 the first emigrant-ship arrived at Sydney from Scotland, and since that time over 25,000 Scottish immigrants have landed and settled on this island. They rapidly spread over the W. coast and occu- pied the shores of the ilras d'Or and its connected waters, and Cape Breton is now, and probably will ever be, a Scottish land. After the dispersal of the Highland clans and the final pacification of Northern Scotland, the chieftains and nobles found it more profitable to devote their estates to catMe-raising than to maintain the old ten- antry system. So thousands of poor tenant-farmers were expelled from their hold- ings and their ancient homes to make room for deer-parks or shoep-farms among the glens. Driven forth against their will, they crossed the Atlantic to settle on the New- World shores, in a fairer but less honored land. The selfish policy of the powerful nobles depopulated broad districts of the Highlands. " Many who had friends in the colonies, and knew what they had to expect, emigrated with great alacrity ; but thousands, who had no such desire, on the contmry the greatest repugnance to leave the land of their fathers, the familiar hills, and the green slopes of Lochaber, were heart-broken at the idea of being separated from them by u thousand leagues of raging sea." This hardy rural population is peculiarly adapted to develop a new country like Cape Breton, and can also endure the great fluctu- ations of the climate, which range from S2' below zero to 96° above. The descend- ants of these immigrants are superior to tbe native Highlanders, both physically and mentally, and pav more attention to the education cf their children and to the general estate of the nation. On leaving Baddeck the steamer runs out around Mackay's Point, and ascends the * Little Bras cV Or Lake, to the S. W. This sheet of water is 5-6 M. wide, and is bordered on the E. by the peninsula of St. Andrew and the hills back of Sunacadio and Christmas Island, and on the W. by the highlands of the Watchabaktchkt peninsula. " The most electric American, heir of all the uervous diseases of all the age«, could not but find peace in this scene of tranquil beauty, and sail on into a great and deepening contentment. Would the voyage could last for an age, Avlth the same sparkling but tranquil sea, and the same en- vironment of hills, near and remote. The hills approached and fell away hi lines of undulating grace, draped with a tender color which helped to carry the imagination beyond the earth. '• Certainly, as we glided out upon the summer waters and began to get the graceful outline of the widening shores, it seemed as if we had taken passage to the Fortunate Isles It was enough to sit on deck forward of the wheel-house, and absorb, by all the senses, the delicious day. With such weather perpetual and such scenery alway.s present, sin in this world would soon become an impossibility." (Warner's Baddeck.) 12-15 M. from Baddeck is the * Strait of Barra (or Grand Narrows), so named because the inhabitants of the adjacent shores came from the island of Barra, in the Hebrides. The strait is picturesque, and is 2 M. long and 1 M. wide. On the shore are a conspicuous Catholic church and a lighthouse ; and the inhabitants are nearly all Campbells and McNeils. The steamer now enters the * Great Bras d'Or Lake, a noble expanse of water with a depth of from 15 to 57 fathoms. It is difficult to state its THE BRAS D'OR. Route Ifi. 1G5 iup;\' lovely mead- : the few peaceful ng to these lligh- s 2,513, including it-ship arrived at immigrants have r. coast and occu- ,pe Breton is now, lie Highland clans d nobles found it ntain the old ten- l from their hold- hc^'p-farms among antic to settle on Ifish policy of the " Many who had grated with great trary the greatest Is, and the green ited from them by peculiarly adapted ! the great tluctu- ve. The descend- •s, both physically ibildrea and to the iay's Point, and slieet of water is a of St. Andrew * id on the W. by iseases of all the beauty, and sail royage could last md the same en- led and fell away which helped to ers and began to ned as if we had rh to sit on deck ses, the delicious ly.s present, sin in s'er's Baddeck.) Grand Narrows), es came from the ique, and is 2 M. tiiolic church and Us and McNeils. a noble expanse lifficult to state its size, on account of the numerous deep bays, but from the Strait of Barra to the S. shore it is 18 M. long (N. and S.), and from Malagawdatchkt it is nearly 20 M. (E. and W.). From the head of West Bay to the head of East Day, a vessel could sail in a straight course nearly 50 M. " The Bras d'Or is t'.io most beautiful salt-water lake I have ever seen, and more beautiful than we had imagined a body of salt water could be Tlie water seeks out all the low places, and ramifies the interior, running away into lovely bays and lagoons, leaving slender tongues of land and picturesque islands, and bringing into tht' recesses of the land, to the remote country farms and settlements the Havor of salt, and the fish and moUusks of the briny sea. There is very little tide at any time, so that the shores are clean and sightly for the most part, like those of a fresh- water ];ikc. It has all the pl(- isantuess of a fre-h-water lake, with all the advan- tages of .1 salt one. In the s reams which run into it .arc the speckled trout, tho sliad, and the salmon ; out of its depths are hooked the cod and the mackerel, and in its bavs fatten the oyster. This irregular lake is about 100 M. long, if you meas- ure it skilfully, and in some places '0 M. broad; but so indented is it, that lam not sure but one would need, as we were informed, to ride 1,000 M. to go round it, following all its incursions into the land. The hills around it are never more than 5 - GOO ft. high, but they are high enough for reposeful beauty, and offer everywhere pleasing lines.'' (Warner's BaiJdeck ) Soon after passing the Strait of Barra the broad estuary of the Rix^er Denys is seen on the r. Deep ship-channels may be followed thither, pass- ing at first through a cluster of islets, and then into the North Basin, whence the Portage Inlet runs N. to within ^ M. of the Whycocomagh Basin. The Inner Basin is 7 M. long and 2 - 3 M. wide, and is sometimes visited by ships, which load here with lumber for England. The River Denys debouches into the S. W. angle of this basin. There are five ham- lets of from 150 to 300 inhabitants eich, situated on the basins and tho river, most of the peoplo being from the Western Isles of Scotland. The ancient Indian name for the Bras d'Or was Bidenuboch; St. Patrick's Channel was called (hiamecli; the lliver-Denys Basin, Mirminis^iiasli ; the West Bay, Paque- lacadie; and the East Bay, Piscabouask. For the convenience of trading with tho numerous Indians who inhabited these shores, M. Denys established his forts at St. Peters and St. Anne's ; but there is no record of settlements by the French on the lakes. The chief seat of the Indians is now on the shore where " Escasoni's fountains Pour down their crystal tide." The beautiful basin and river of Denys were named in honor of their discoverer, Nicholas Denys, Sieur do Fronsac, who was appointed by King Louis, in 1654, " Governor and Lieutcnant-General " of Cape Breton and the adjacent shores. When the steamer is about 4 RI. from the Strait of Barra, Benacadie Point is seen on the 1., 7-8 M. distant, below which is the great opening of the East Bay or St. Andrew's Channel, running in to the N. E. for nearly 25 M. (see page 147). 10-12 M. below the strait is the open'ng of the long and sinuous harbor of Malagawdatchkt, which approaches the marble formations of the western highlands, and has a village of 350 in- habitants. To the S. E. are the islands off St. Peter's Inlet, The steamer now enters the S. W. arm of the Great Bras d'Or, which is called the West Bay, or St. George's Channel, and is about 15 M. long and 7 M. wide. It contains numerous islands, and is separated from the River- ■! j ll I 1G6 Route 40. THE BRAS D'OR. Denys Basin by a range of massive highlands on the N. The N. shore hills are 700-770 ft. high, and those on the S. siiore are 250-620 ft. high. The shores are thinly inhabited, and the only liamlets are at the head of the channel. (For the rest, the Editor lias all these shores minutely out- lined on the Admiralty chart now before him; but what shall it profit tlio traveller to know the precise locality of the Crammond Isles, or Calder Hill, or Ballam Head?) " The only other thing of note the Bras d'Or offered us before we reached West Bay was the finest show of medusae or jelly-fish that could be produced. At first there were dozens of these disk-shaped transparent creatures, and then hundreds, Btarring the water like marguerites sprinkled on a meadow, and of sizes from tbat of a teacup to a dinner-plate. We soon ran into a school of them, a convention, a herd as extensive as the vast buffalo droves i>n the plains, a collection as thick as clover-blossoms in a field in June, miles of them apparently ; and at length the boat had to push its way through a mass of them which covered the water like the leaves of the pond-lily, and filled the deeps far down with their beauti*' «.l contracting and expanding forms. I did not suppose there were so many jelly-fisb ;s in all the world." (Warner's Baddet.k.) "The scenery of the lakes is exceedingly striking and diversified. Long rocky cliffs and escarpments rise in some places abruptly from the water's edge ; in others, undulating or rolling hills predominate, fringed 0.1 the shores by low white cliffs of gypsum or red conglomerate ; whilst the deep basins and channels, which branch off in all directions from the central expanse of waters, studded with innumerable islets covered with a rich growth of spruce and hemlock, present views the most picturesque and diver,sificd imaginable." (Brown.) " The scenery of this vast inlet is in some places beautifully picturesque, and in some others monotonous and uninteresting, but in many parts of a sublime charac- ter, which exhibits the sombre gloom of pine forests, the luxuriant verdure of broad valleys and wooded mountains, and the wild features of lofty promontories frowning in stubborn ruggedness over the waters of the rivers ard inlets." (M'Gregor.) " So wide is it, and so indented by broad bays and deep coves, that a coasting journey around it is equal in extent to a voyage across the Atlantic. Besides the distant mountains that rise proudly from the remote shores, there are many noble islands in its expanse, and forest-covered peninsulas, bordered with beaches of glit- tering white pebbles. But over ail this wide landscape there broods a spirit of primeval solitude For, strange as it may seem, the Golden Arm is a very use- less piece of water in this part of the world ; highly favored as it is by nature, land- locked, deep enough for vessels of all burden, easy of access on the Gulf side, free from fogs, and only separated from the ocean at its southern end by a narrow strip of land, about J M. wide ; abounding in timber, coal, and gypsum, and valuable for its fisheries, especially in winter, yet the Bras d'Or is undeveloped for want of that element which seems to be alien to the Colonies, namely, enterprise.''^ (Cozzens.) The Bras d' Or to Halifax. When the steamer arrives at West Bay, a collection of singularly as- sorted vehicles is seen waiting by the wharf, and the passengers are con- veyed on this motley train over 13 M. of uninteresting country to Port Hawkesbury (see page 143). The morning mail-stage may be taken from the opposite side of the Strait of Canso to Antigonish and New Glasgow (see Route 32); thence by railway to Halifax. But a pleasanter route (in calm weather) is to go on board the P. E. Island steamboat, which arrives during the evening, and pass to Plctou, through St. George's Bay and the I^orthumberland Strait. Pictou to Halifax, see Route 31. ST. PATRICK'S CHANNEL. Jioute 4I. 167 The N. shore [) - 620 ft. high. at the head of minutely out- lall it profit tlio sles, or Caldcr we reached West oduced. At first then hundreds, )f sizes from that a convention, a ction as thiclc as at length the boat iter like the leaves 1 contracting and 3 in all the world." fied. Long rocky s edge ; in others, low white cliffs of lels, which branch with innumerable at views the most cturesque, and in a sublime charac- it verdure of broad nontories frowning (M'Gregor.) as, that a coasting ntic. Besides the re are many noble th beaches of glit- broods a spirit of Arm is a very use- is by nature, land- the Gulf side, free ly a narrow strip of md valuable for its 1 for want of that :se." (COZZEMS.) of singularly as- I sengers are con- country to Port ly be taken from ad New Glasgow asanter route (in at, which arrives ge's Bay and the 41. Baddeck to Mabou and Fort Hood. — St Patrick's Channel and Whycocomagh. This route is traversed by the Royal mail-stage on Monday and Wednesday, leav- ing Baddeck at noon, and reaching Whycocomagh after 4 o'clock, and Mabou at 9 p. M. The distance is about 50 M. ; the fare is $ 2.50. The Royal mail-stage on this route is a one-horse wagon with a single seat, so that the accommodations for travel are limited. Mr. Warner thus describes the road between Whycocomagh and Baddeck: " From the time we first struck the Bras d'Or for thirty miles we rode in constant sight of its magnificent water. Now we were two hundred feet above the water, on the hill- side skirting a point) or following an indentation ; and now we were diving into a narrow valley, crossing a stream, or turning a sharp corner, but always with the Bras d'Or !in view, the afternoon sun shining on it, softening the outlines of its em- bracing hills, casting a shadow from its wooded islands. Sometimes we opened upon a broad water plain bounded by the Watchabaktchkt liills, and again we looked over hill after hill receding into the soft and hazy blue of the land beyond the great mass of the Bras d'Or. The reader can compare the view and the ride to the Bay of Naples and the Cornice Road ; we did nothing of the sort ; we held on to the seat, prayed that the harness of the pony might not break, and gave constant expression to our wonder and delight." St. Patrick's Channel is 20 M. long by 1-3 M. wide, and is made highly picturesque by its deep coves, wooded points, and lofty shores. Its general course is followed by the highway, affording rich views from some of the higher grades. After leaving Baddeck the road strikes across the country for about 5 M. to the Baddeck River, in whose upper waters are large trout. Beyond this point the road swings around the blue expanse of Indian Bay, approaching a bold hill-range 650 ft. high, and crosses the Middle River, at whose mouth is an Indian reservation. Frequent glimpses are afforded of St. Patrick's Channel, well to the 1. across the green mead- ows. A range of lofty heights now forces the road nearer to the water, and it passes within 2 M. of the remarkable strait known 03 the Little Narrmvs, about which there aie 150 inhabitants. A road leads N. W. 6 M. into Ainslie Glen, and to the great Alnslle liake, which covers 25 square miles, and is the source of the Margaree River. Its shores are broken and rugged, and are occupied by a hardy population of Highlanders. Petroleum springs have been found in this vicinity (see page ^.69). Beyond the Little Narrows is a magnificent basin, 15 M. long and 3-6 M. wide, into whose sequestered and forest-bound waters large ships make their way, and are here laden with timber for Europe. On his second trip up this Basin, the Editor was startled, on rounding a promontory, at seeing a lar^e Liverpool ship lying here, at anchor, with her yard-arms almost among the trees. The road runs around the successive spurs of the Salt Mt., a massive ridge on the N. shore of the Basin, and many very attractive views are gained from its upper reaches. The water is of a rich olue, partly owing to its depth, which is from 3 to 20 fathoms. Whycocomagh (Inverness House) is a Scottish Presbyterian hamlet, situated at the N. W. angle of the Basin, and surrounded by pretty Trosach- like scenery. There are about 400 inhabitants in this neighborhood, \l I I I 168 Route 42. WHYCOCOMAGH. whence small cargoes of p'*ocluce are annually shipped to Newfoundland. Near this point is a marble cave, with several chambe.-s 6 - 8 ft. high ; and foxes are often seen among the hills. It is claimed that valuable deposits of magnetic and hematitic iron-ore have been found in this vicinity. Stages run 30 M. S. VV. from Whycocomagh to Port Hastings, on the tame and uninteresting road known as the Victoria Line. " "What we first saw was an inlet of the Bras d'Or, called by the driver Ilogamah Bay. At its entrance were long, wooded islands, beyond which we saw the backs of graceful hills, like the capes of some poetic sea-coast A peaceful place, this Whycocomagh. The lapsing waters of the Bras d'Or made a summer music all along the quiet street ; the bay lay smiling with its islands in front, and an amphi- theatre of hills rose beyond." (Warneji's Baddeck.) On leaving Whycocomagh the quaint double peaks of Salt Mt. are seen in retrospective views, and the road soon enters the Skye Glen, a long, narrow valley, which is occupied by the Highlanders. The wagon soon reaches the picturesque gorge of the Mabou Valley, with the mountainous mass of Cape Mabou in front. The Mull River is seen on the 1., glitter- ing far below in the valley, and erelong the widenings of the sea are reached, and the traveller arrives at the wretched inn of Mabou. The stage for I'ort Hood (10 M. S.) leaves about midnight, reaching Port Has- tings at 9 A. M. (see Route 42), The steamer Neptune ascends St. Patrick's Channel to Whycocomagh every week, on its alternate trips passing around from Sydney to the Channel by way of the Great Bras d'Or (Sydney to WHiycocomagh, $2). This route is much easier for the traveller than that by the stage, and reveals as much natural beauty, if made during the hours of daylight! The passage of the Little Narrows and the approach to Whycocomagh are its most striking phases. ^ The West Coast of Cape Breton.— Port Hood and Mar- garee. The Royal mail-stage leaves Port Hastings (Plaster Cove) every morning, after the arrival of the Halifax mail. Fare to Port Hood, $ 3. Distances. — t >rt Hastings ; Low Point, 7 M. ; Creignish, 9 ; Long Point, 14 ; Judiquc, 18; Little Judique, 24; Port Hood, 28; Mabou, 38; Broad Cove Inter- vale, 66 ; Margaree Forks, G8 ; Margaree, 76 ; Cheticamp, 88. The first portion of this route is interesting, as it affords frequent pleas- ant views of the Strait of Canso and its bright maritime processions. The trend of the coast is followed from I'ort Hastings to the N. W., and a suc- cession of small hamlets is seen along the bases of the highlands. Just beyond Low Point is the Catholic village of the same name, looking out over the sea. The I'oad now skirts the wider waters of St. George's Bay, over which the dark Antigonish Mts. are visible. Bej'ond the settlements of Creignish and Long Point is the populous district of Judique, inhab- PORT HOOD. Route 42. 1G9 wfoundland. "t. high; and iblc deposits lis vicinity, on the tame iver Ilogamah saw the backs ful place, this nier music all lud an aniphi- Mt. are seen jlen, a long, Avagon soon mountainous 16 ]., glitter- the sea are Uabou. The ig Port Has- 'hycocomagh 'dney to tlie omagh, $2). le stage, and > of daylight! ocomagh are and Mar- norning, after jng Point, 14 ; id Cove later- tqueut pleas- ssions. The ., and a suc- lands. Just , looking out eorge's Bay, ) settlements Uque, inhab- > L ited by Scottish Catholics, who are devoted to the sea and to agriculture. The Judiquers are famous throughout the Province for their great stature, and are well known to the American fishermen on account of their pug- nacity. Yankee crews landing on this coast are frequently assailed by these pugilistic Gaels, and the stalwart men of Judique usually come off victorious in the fistic encounters. The district has about 2,000 inhab- itants. Port Hood (two inns) is the capital of Inverness County, and is a pic- turesque little seaport of about 800 inhabitants. The American fishermen in the Gnlf frequently take shelter here during rough weather, and 400 sail have been seen in the port at one time. There are large coal-deposits in the vicinity, which, however, have not yet been developed to any extent. The town was founded by Capt. Smith and a party of New- Englanders, in 1790. '* This port affords the only safe anchorage on the W. coa&», of Cape Breton to the N. of the Gut of Canso," and is marked by a red-and-white light, near the highway, on the S. Off shore is Smith's Isi. nd, which is 2 M. long and 210 ft. high, beyond which are the high shores of Henry Island. The Magdalen-Islands steamer touches at Port Hood (see Route 49) and a stage-road runs N. E. to Hillsborough, where it meets the road from Mabou, and thence passes E. to Whycocomagh (see page 167). Mabou (uncomfortable inn) is 10 M. N. E. of Port Hood, and is reached by a daily stage passing along the shore-road. It is at the mouth of the broad estuary of the Mabou River, amid bold and attractive scene-y, and contains about 800 inhabitants. To the N. E. is the highland district of Cape Mabou, averaging 1,000 fl. in height, and thickly Avooded. The Gulf-shore road to Margaree runs between this range and the sea, passing the marine hamlets of Cape Mabou and Sight Point. There is an inland road, behind the hills, which is entered by following the Whycocomagh road to the head of the estuaiy of the Mabou and then diverging to the N. E. This road is traversed b}-^ a tri-weekly stage, and leads up by the large farming-settlement at Broad Cove Intervale, to the W. shores of Lake AinsUe (see page 167), which has several small Scottish hamlets among the glens. "The angler who has once driven through Ainslie Glen to the phores of the lake, launched his canoe upon its broad waters, and entered its swiftly running stream, will never be content to return until he has fished its successive pools to its very mouth." A road leads out from near the W. shore of the lake to the village of Broad Cove Chapel, on the Gulf coast, traversing a pass in the highlands. The stage runs N. between the hills and the valley of the Margaree (S. W. Branch), "one of the most x'omantic and best stocked salmon-rivers in the world." Beyond the settlement of Broad Cove Marsh, a road runs out to the Gulf abreast of Sea -Wolf Island, on whose cliffs is a fixed light, 300 ft. 8 170 Route 42. MARGAllEE. high. Margaree Forks is a rural village at the junction of the N. E. and S. W. Branches of the famous Margaree Biver, where salmon abound from June 15 until July 15. " In Cape Bretou the beautiful Margaree is one of the most notud streams for sea- trout, and its clear water and picturesque scenery, winding through intervale mead- ows dotted with groups of witch-elm, aud backed by wooded hills over a thousand liect in height, entitle it to pre-eminence amongst the rivers of the Gulf." There are several small hamlets in this region, with a total population of OA er 4,000. Margaree is on the harbor of the same name, near the Chimney-Corner coal-mines, 48 M. from Port Hood, and has a small fleet of fishing-vessels. A shore-rond runs N. F. 12 M. to Cheticamp, a district containing about 2,000 inhabitants, most of whom are of the old Acadian race. It is a fishing station of Robin & Co., an ancient and powerful commercial house on the Isle of Jersey; and was founded by them in 1784, and settled by Acadian refugees from Prince Edward Island. The h.irbor is suitable for small vessek, and is formed by Cheticamp Island, sheltering the mouth of the Cheticamp River. There is a powerful revolving white light on the S. point of the island, 150 ft. high, and visible for 20 M. at sea. N. E. and E. of Cheticamp extends the great highland-wilderness of the N. part of Cape Breton (see page 163), an imexplorcd and trackless land of forests and mountains. There are no roads above Cheticamp, and the most northerly point of the Province, Cape St. Lawrence (see page 159), is 30 M. N. E. by E. i E. from the N. part of Cheticr np Island. The terrible storm which swept the Gulf of St. Lawrence in August, 1873, and wrecked hundreds of vessels, attained its greatest force around the island of Cape Breton and in the narrow seas to the W., towards Prince Edward's Island and the Magdalen Island. It lasted only a few hours, but was fearfully destructive in its effects, and strewed all these coasts with drowned mariners The following spirited poem is inserted here, by the kind permission of its author, Mr. Edmund C. Sted- man. The liOrd's-Day Gale. In Gloucester port lie fishing craft,— More staunch and trim were never seen : They are sharp^ before and sheer abaft, And true their lines the masts between. Alone the wharves of Gloucester Town Their fores are lifihtly landed down. And the laden flakes to sunward lean. Well know the men each crulsing-ground, And where the cod and mackerelbe ; Old Eastern Point the schooners round And leave Cape Ann on the larboard lee : Sound are the planks, the hearts are bold, That brave December s surfics cold On George's shoals in thc'outer sea. And some must sail to the banks far north And set their trawls for the hungry cod,- In the ghostly fog creep back and forth By shrouUt J paths no foot hath trod ; TT|)on the crews the ice-winds blow, The bitter sleet, the frozen snow, — Thehr lives are in the hand of God ! New England ! New England ! Needs sail they must, so brave and pook', Or June be warm or Winter storm. Lest a wolf gnaw through the cottage-door I Three weeks at home, tliree long months gone, While the patient good-wives sleep alone, And wake to hear tlie breakers roar. The Grand Bank gathers in its dead, — The deep sea-sand is their winding-sheet ; Who does not Georges billows dread That dash together the drifting fleet ? Who does not long to hear, in May, The pleasant wash of Saint Lawrence Bay, The fairest ground where fishermen meet ? There the west wave holds the red sunlight Till the bells at home are rung for nine : Short, short the watch, and calm the night ; The fiery northern streamers shine ; The eastern sky anon is gold. And winds from piny forests old. Scatter the white mists off the brine. THE LORD'S-DAY GALE. Route 42. 171 le, near the The Province craft with oura at morn Are mingled when the vapors shift ; All day, by breeze and current borue, Across the bay the sailors drift ; With toll and seine its wealth the^ win,— The dappled, silvery spoil come in Fast as their handa can haul and lift. New England ! New England I Thou lovcst well thine ocean main I It spreadeth its locks among thy rocks. And long against thy heart hath luia ; Thy ships upon its bosom ride And feel the heaving of its tide ; To tlicc its secret speech is plain. Cape Breton and Edward Isle between, In strait and gulf the schooners lay j The sea was all iit peace, I ween. The night before that August day ; Was never a Gloucester skip|)er there. But thought erelong, witli a right good fare. To sail lor home from Saint Lawrence Bay. New England ! New England ! Thy giant's love was turned to hate J The winds control his flckle soul. And in his wrath he hath no mate. Thy shores his angry scourges tear, And for thy children in his care The sudden tempests lie in wait. The East Wind gathered all unknown, — A thick sea-cloud his course before ; lie left by night the frozen zone And sniote the cliffs of liabrador ; He liishcd the coasts on cither hand. And betwixt the Cape and Newfoundland Into the Bay his armies pour. He caught our helpless cruisers there As a gray wolf harries the huddling fold ; A sleet — a darkness — filled the air, A shuddering wave before it rolled : That Lords-Day morn it was a breeze, — At noon, a blast that shook the seas, — At night — a wind of Death took hold I It leaped across the Breton bar, A death-wind from the stormy East I It scarred the land, and whirled afar The sheltering thatch of man and beast ; It mingled rick and roof and tree, And like a besom swept the sea. And churned the waters into yeast From Saint Paul's I^ight to Edward's Isle A thousand croft it smote amain ; And some against it strove the while, And more to make a port were fain : The mackerel-gulls flew screaming past. And the stick tiiat bent to the noonday blast Was split by the sundown hurricane. Woe, woe to those whom the Islands pen I In vain they shun the double capes ; Cruel arc the reefs of Magdalen ; The Wolf's white fang whot prey escapes? The Urin'stone (;rind8 the bones of some, And Coffin Isle is craped witli foam ; — On Deadinan's shore are fearful shapes I O, what can live on the open sea, Or moored in port the gale outride? The very craft that at anchor be Are dragged along by the swollen tide I The great storm-wave came rolling west, And tossed the vessels on its crest : The ancient bounds its might defied I The ebb to check it had no power ; The surf ran up to an untold height ; It rose, nor yielded, hour by hour, A night and day, a day and night ; Far up the seething shores it cast The wreck of hull and spar and mast, "The strangled crews, — a wof ul sight I There were twenty and move of Breton sail Fast anchored on one mooring-ground j Each lay v/ithin his neighbor s hail. When the thick of (he tempest closed them round : All sank at once in the gaping sea, — Somewhere on the shoals their corses be, Tue foundered hulks, and the seamen drowned. On reef and bar our schooners drove Before the wind, before the swell ; By the steep sand-clift'a thtir ribi were stove, — Long, long their crews the tuie shall tell 1 Of the Gloucester fleet are wreck* threescore: Of the Province sail two hundred more Were stranded in that tempest fell. The bedtime bells in Gloucester Town That Sabbath night rang soft and clear ; The sailors' childrtn laid them down,— Dear Lord I their sweet prayers couldst thou hear 'i 'T is said that gently blew the winds ; The good-wives, through the seaward blinds, Looked down the bay and had no fear. New England I New England I Thy ports their dauntless seamen mourn ; The twin capes yearn for their return Who never shall be thither borne ; Their orphans whisper as they caeet ; The homes arc dark in many a street. And women move in weeds forlorn. And wilt thou fail, and dost thou fear ? Ah, no ! though widows' cheeks are pole. The lads shall say : " Another year, And we shall be of age to sail ! " And the mothers' hearts shall fill with pri'le. Though tears drop fa^tfor them who died 'When the fleet was wrecked in the Ltnd's- Day gale. PRINCE EDWAED ISLAND. i . Prince Edward Island is situated in the southern portion of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and is bounded on the S. by the Northumberland Strait. It is 30 M. from Cape Breton Island, 15 M. from Nova Scotia, and 9 M. from New Brunswick, and is surrounded by deep and navigable waters. The extreme length is 130 M. ; the extreme breadth, 34 M. ; and the area is 2,133 square miles. The surface is low or gently undulating, with small hills in the central parts, and the soil is mostly derived from red sandstorm, and is very fertile. The air is balmy and bracing, less foggy than the adjacent shores, and milder than that of New Brunswick. The most abundant trees are the evergreens, besides which the oak and maple are found. The shores are deeply indented by harbors, of which those toward the Gulf are obstructed by sand, but those on the S. are com- modious and accessible. The island is divided into 3 counties, including 13 districts, or 67 town- ships and 3 royalties. It has 94,021 inhabitants, of whom 40,765 are Cath- olics, 29,579 are Presbyterians, 8,361 Methodists, and 7,220 Episcopalians. The majority of the people are Gaelic, and there are 300-400 Micmac Indians. The local government is conducted by the Legislative Council (13 members) and the House of Assembly (28 members), and the political parties which form about the petty questions of the island display a par- tisan acrimony and employ a caustic journalism such as are not seen even in the United States. The Province is provided with governor and cab- inet, supreme and vice-admiralty courts, a public debt and a public do- main, on the same plan as those of the great Provinces of Quebec and Ontario. The land is in a high state of cultivation, and nearly all the population is rural. Manufactories can scarcely be said to exist, but the fisheries are carried on to some extent, and shipbuilding recei' es consid- erable attention. The roads are good in dry weather, and lead through quiet rural scenery, broken every few miles by the blue expanses of the broad bays and salt-water lagoons. The chief exports consist of oats, wheat, barley, hay, potatoes, fish, live-stock, and lumber. It has been claimed that Prince Edward Island was discovered by Cabot, in 1497, but there is no certainty on this subject. It was visited by Champlain on St. John's Day, 1608, and received from him the name of V Isle St. Jean. The whole country was then covered with stately for- PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. 173 csts, abounding in game, and was inhabited by a clan of tlie Micmac Indians, who called it Epnyguit ("Anchored on the Wave"). It was included in the broad domain of Acadia, over which France and England waged such disastrous wars, but was not settled for over two centuries after Cabot's voyage. In 1663 this and the 7' igdalen Islands were granted to M. Doublet, a captain in the French navy, who erected summer fishing- stations here, but abandoned them every autumn. After England had wrested Nova Scotia from France, a few Acadians crossed over to L'Islo St. Jean and became its first settlers. In 1728 there were 60 French fam- ilies here; in 1745 there were about 800 inhabitants; and during her death- struggles with the Anglo-American armies, the Province of Quebec drew large supplies of grain and cattle from these shores. The capital was at Port la Joie (near Chai*lottetown), where there was a battery and garrison, dependent on the military commandant of Louisbourg. It is claimed by Ilaliburton that the island was captured by the New-Englanders in 1745, but it is known only that Gen. Pepperell ordered 400 of his soldiers to sail from Louisbo'^g and occupy L'Islo St: Jean. It does not appear whether or not this was done. After the expulsion of the Acadians from Nova Scotia, many of them fled to this island, which contained 4,100 inhab- itants in 1758. In that year Lord Rollo took possession of it, according to tlie capitulation of Louisbourg, with a small military foi'ce. In 1763 the island was ceded to Great Britain by the Treaty of Fon- tainebleau, and became a part of the Province of Nova Scotia. It was surveyed in 1764 - 6, and was granted to about 100 English and Scottish gentlemen, who were to pay quitrents and to settle their lands with 1 per- son to every 200 acres, within 10 years, the colonists to be Protestants from the continent of Europe. When the 10 years had elapsed, many of the estates were forfeited or sold to other parties, and only 19 of the 67 townships had any settlers. In 1770 the island was made a separate Prov- ince, and in 1773 the first House of Assembly met. In 1775 the Americans captured the capital, and in 1778 four Canadian companies were stationed tliere. In 1780 the Province was called New Ireland, but the King vetoed this name, and in 1800 it was entitled Prince Edward Island, in honor of His Royal Highness Prince Edward, Duke of Kent, then Commander of the Forces in British North America (afterwards father of Queen Victoria). In 1803 the Earl of Selkirk sent over 800 Highlanders, and other proprietors set- tled colonies on their domains. The complicated questions arising from tho old pi'oprietary estates have engrossed most of the legislation of the island for 70 years, and are being slowly settled by the purchase of the lands by the government. Prince Edward Island long refused to enter the Dominion of Canada, but yielded at last on very favorable terms, one of the condi- tions being that the Confederacy should build a railway throughout the Province. i i 174 Route 43. CAPE TRAVERSE. w 43. Shediac to Sammerside and Charlottetown. — The Northumberland Strait. St. John to Shediac, sec Routes 14 and 16. It is probable that steamers of the P. E. I. Steam Navigation Company ■will leave Shediac (Point dii Chenc) every day during the summer season, on arrival of the morning train from St. John. The faro from Shediac to Summersldo is $1.50 ; and from Summersido to Charlottetown, $ 1.50. The distance from Shediac to Summerside is 35 ^I. Soon after Icavinjr the wharf at Point du Cheno the steamer passes out through Shediac Bay, and enters the Northumberland Strait. The course is a little N. of E., and the first point of the island to come into sight is Cape Egmontf with its lines of low sandstone cllfls. The traveller now sees the significance of the ancient Indian name of this sea-girt land, Epayguit^ signifying "Anchored on the Wave." After passing Cape Egmont on the 1., the steamer enters Bcdeque, or Halifax, Bay, and runs in toward the low shores on thoN. E. After pass- ing Indian Point and Island it enters the harbor of Summerside, with the estuary of the Dunk River on the r. Summerside, see page 179. Upon leaving Summerside the steamer passes Indian Point on the 1., and, after running by Salutation Point, enters the Northumberland Strait. The course is nearly S. E. 9 M. from Salutation Point is Cape Traverse, and on the S. shore is Cape Tormentine. At this, the narrowest part of the strait, the mails are carried acrooa by ice-boats in winter, and passen- gers are transported by the same perilous route. A submarine cable un- derlies the strait at this point. It is 20 M. from Cape Traverse to St. Peter's Island, and along the island shores are the villages of Tryon, Cra- paud, De Sable, and Bonshaw. On passing St. Peter's Island, the steamer enters Hillsborough Bay and runs N., with Orwell and Pownal Bays open- ing on the E. " Charlottetown Harbor, at its entrance between the cliffs of Blockhouse and Sea-Trout Point, is 450 fathoms wide, and, in sailing in, York River running northward, the Hillsborough River eastwardly, and the Elliot to the westward, surround the visitor with beautiful effects, and as he glides smoothly over their confluence, or what is called the Three Tides, he will feel, perhaps, that he has seen for the first time, should a setting sun gild the horizon, a combination of color and effect which no artist could ade- quately represent." Charlottetown, see page 175. 1 CHARLOTTETOWN. Jioute 44. 175 -The Company lor season, •liediac to $ 1.50. er leavinsr Kliuc Bay, of E., and with its gnificance signifying odeque, or Vfterpass- with the on the 1., md Strait. Traverse, !st part of ad passen- cable un- erse to St. ryon, Cra- »e steamer tays open- lockhouse ork River Iliot to the he glides 38, he will ; sun gild ould ade- I I 44. Fioton to Prince Edward Island. To Oiarlottetoicn. The steamships of the P. E. I. Steam Navigation Company leave Pictou for Charlottetown every Wednesday and Saturday (liours not yet regu- lated). Fare, $ 2. The distance is a little over 50 M. Soon after leaving the safe and pleasant harbor of Pictou, the steamer approaches Pictou Island, a hilly and well-wooded land 4 M. long, with a lighthouse and some farms. On the W. is Caribou Island, consisting of several islets united by sand-bars, and guarded by a lighthouse. There are l)leasant views of the receding highlands of Nova Scotia; and the vossci moves easily through the quiet waters of the Northumberland Strait. " Prince Edward Island, as we approached it, had a pleasing aspect, and none of that remote friendlessness which its appearance on the map con- veys to one ; a warm and sandy land, in a genial climate, without fogs, wo are informed." After passing (on the r.) the long low Point Prim, the steamer sweeps around to the N. into Hillsborough Bay, and enters the harbor of Char- lottetown. Pictou to Georgetown. The P. E. I. Steam Navigation Company's steamships leave Pictou for Georgetown every Tuesday and Friday ; leaving Georgetown for Pictou on the same days. Fare from port to port, $ 2. The distance is nearly 70 M. The chief incidents of this short voyage are the views of Pictou Island; the approach to Cape Bear, the S. E. point of P. E. Island, backed by hills 200 ft.'high; and the accent of the noble sheet of Cardigan Bay, be- tween Boughton and Panmure Islands. Georgetown, see page 181. 45. Charlottetown. Arrival. — The steamer passes between St. Peter's Island (I.) and Governor's Island (r.) and ascends Hillsborough Bay for about 6 M. It then passes between Blockhouse Point (on the 1., with a lighthouse) and Sea-Trout Point, and enters the harbor of Charlottetown, where there are 7-10 fathoms of water. Powerful cur- rents are formed here by the tides of the Hillsborough, York, and Elliot Rivers (or Ea8t,NortIi, and West llircrs), which empty into this basin. Hotels. — St. Lawrence Hotel, Water St. ; Revere House, noar the steamboat wharf; City Hotel. The hotels of Charlottetown are only boarding-houses of aver- age grade, and will hardly satisfy American gentlemen. Attempts are being made to erect a large summer-hotel here, though there seems to be but little to warrant such an enterprise. Steamships. — The Alhamhra and the Carroll leave Charlottetown every Thursday for the Strait of Canso, Halifax, and Boston. Fares to Halifax, saloon state-room, $6; cabin state-room, $5 ; cabin, $4 ; Halifax to Boston, $9, $7.50, 17G Route 4^. CIIAIILOTTETOWN. 1 • anil Sri.50. Tlio P. E. T. Steam Navl^tition Company « voasol!4 St. Lawrence ard Prinress of Wall '* nr\ between (Iharlottetown, Shuiilae, and I'iotoii (see llouto.i 4J anil 44). The Uealhtr Bellr j)lies iiliout tho bay and up tlio Hillsborough lliver, making also tripH to ('iai)aud and Orwell. Hhe runs ui» the llill.sborough Uiver to Mount Stewart on Monday, Tuesday, Friday and Saturday; to Crapaud on SVedncsday ; aud to Orwell ou Wednesday, Vliursday and Friday (tluio-tablo of 1874). CiiARLOTTKTOWN, tlio capltul of Pi'inco Edwnrcl Island, is situated on gently rising ground on tlio N. sido of Iho Hillsborough River, nnd fronts on a good luirbor. It has about 8,000 inhabitants, with G weekly news- papers, 2 banks, nnd 10 churches. Tho plan of tho city is very regular, and consists of G streets, each 100 ft. wide, running K. nnd \V., intersect- ing 9 streets rumn'ng from N. to S. There are four largo public squares. The Colonial Building is tho only fino structure in tho city. It stands on Queen's Square, at tho head of Great George St., and is built of Nova- Scotia freestone (at a cost of $ 85,000). The halls of tho Legislative Coun- cil and House of Assembly are on tho second floor, nnd are handsomely furnished and adorned with portraits of tho statesmen of Prince Edward Island. On tho same floor is tho Colonial Library, containing a good col- lection of books relating to the history, laws, and physical characteristics of Canada and tho British Empire. A pleasant view of the city and the rivers may be obtained from tho cupola of tho building. Tho Post Office is also on Queen's Square, and is a new and handsome stone building. Just beyond is tho ^Market House, a great wooden structure covered with shingles. The principal shops of Charlottetown are about Queen's Square, and otTer but little to bo desired. The Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. Dunstan is a spacious wooden ediflce on Great George St., near the Square. The extensive Convent of Notre Dame is on Hillsborough Square, and occupies a modern brick building. The Prince of Wales College and the Normal School are on Weymouth St., in this vicinity. Tho old barracks and drill-shed are W. of Queen's Square, between Pownal and Sydney Sts., and are fronted by a parade-ground. The Gov- c-^nment House is on a point of land W. of the city, and overlooks the harbor. In 1748 tho government of the island was vested In civil nnd military officers, whose residence was established at the W. entrance to the harbor of Port la Joie (Charlottetown), where tliey hiid a battery and a small garrison. It is said that the first French sailors who entered the inner harbor were so pleased with its tranquil beauty that they named it Port la Joie. There were no houses on the site of tho city in 1752. The harbor was held by three British frigates in 1746, but was ravaged by 200 Micmacs under the French Ensign Montesson. All tho English found on tho shore w«re captured, but the Indians refused to attack the war-vessels. In 1768 Morris and Deschanips arrived here with a small colony, and erected huts. They laid out the streets of Charlottetown, which was .'^oon established as the capi- tal of the island. In 1775 it was captured by two American war-vessels, which had been cruising in the Gulf to carry off the Quebec storeships. The sailors plundered the town, and led away several local dignitaries as prisoners, but Washington lib- erated tho captives, and reprimanded the predatory cruisers. Charlottetown " has the appearance of a place from which something has de- parted; a wooden town, with wide and vacant streets, and the air of waiting for k ENVIRONS OF CIIARLOTTETOWN. lioute 46. 177 {nu'r^nre ard |''»' itoutiM 4 > V"""«li Ilivrr trapuud on fuiJo-tublo of situated on niul fronts (ckly news- 'O' regular, » intcrsect- squares. Jt stands ilt of Nova- itive Couii- landsomcly co Edward •1 good col- racteristlcs ty and the Post Ojjice building. Jvercd with n's Square, edralofSt. i>G Square, quare, and ge and the '» between The Gov- "•iooks the ^ry offlcora, ort la Joie 111 tliat the ts tranquil site of tho as ravaged ind on the «tcd huts. 3 the capi- vhich had plundered Jgton lib- ? has ce- liting for somcthlnff That tho produrtlfo inland, with lt« »y«t<>m of ftro nchooln, is About to (Miter upon a proH|)erouH career, and that Charlottotown In Hoon to V)ecomo a pioco of great activity, no one who conversj ii ^i olic church nnd convent rise prominently over the low honses of the fisher- men. Near the sea is a battery of ancient guns, winch are used only for warning in season of fogs. The buildings are nearly all of wood, and in- clude many shops, where every variety of goods may be obtained. The merchants are connected with French and American firms. There are numerous cabarets, or drinking-saloons ; and the auberges, or small taverns, are thoroughly French. The citizens are famed for their hospitality to properly accredited strangers; and the literary culture of the community is served by a diminutive weekly paper called La Feville OJicielle, printed on a sheet of foolscap, and containing its serial Parisian feuilleton. The street of St. Pierre presents a very interesting sight during the spring and fall. It is crowded with many thousands of hardy fishermen, arrayed in the quaint costumes of their native shores, — Normans, Bretons, Basques, Provincials, and New-Englanders, — all active and alert; while the implements of the fisheries are seen on every side. The environs of the town are rocky and utterly unproductive, so that the provisions used here are imported from the Provinces. The resident population is 3,187 (of whom 24 are Protestant), and the government is conducted by a Commandant, a Police Magistrate, Doctor, Apostolic Prefect, and Er.gineer, with a few artillerists and gens-d'armes. There is usually one or more French frigates in the harbor, looking after the vast fisheries which employ 15,000 sailors of France, and return 30,000,000 francs' worth of fish. St. Pierre is the chief rendezvous of the French fishermen, and immense fleets are sometimes gathered lierc. Over 1,000 sail of square-rigged vessels from France aro engaged in tlicse fislicrics, and on the 29th of .lunc, 1874, the roadstead near the island contained 350 sail of square-rigged vessels and 300 fore-and-aft vessels. They are here furnished with supplies, which are drawn from the adjacent Provinces, and in return leave many of the luxuries of Old France. It is claimed tliat the brandy of St. Pierre is the best in America. The fishermen leave their fish here to be cured, and from this point they arc sent S. to the United States and the West Indies. Little Mirpielon Island^ or Langley Island, lies 3 M. N. W. of St. Pierre, and is about 24 M. around. It is joined to Great Miquelon Island by a long and narrow sandy isthmus. The latter island is 12 M. long, and looks out on Fortune Bay. Near its N. end are the singular hills known as Mt. Chapeau and Mt. Cal- vaire. On this island, during the summer of 1874, was wrecked H. B. M. frigate Niobe, the brave ship that trained her guns on Santiago de Cuba, and prevented a total massacre of the Virginiiis prisoners. St. Pierre was captured by a British fleet in 1793, and all its inhabitants, 1,502 in number, were carried away to Halifax, whence they were soon afterwards sent to France. In 1796 a French Republican fleet under Admiral Richery visited the de- serted island, and completely destroyed its buildings and wharves. It was, how- ever, restored to France in 1814, together with her ancient privileges in these waters. "All the island is only a great laboratory for the preparation, curing, and exportation of codfish. For the rest, not a tree, not a bush, above 25 centi- metres." ST. JOHN'S. Route 52. 189 eton and land wns patron- 01), Vc- fishlng- bert took makinw ttlernents 3d on tho le earlier irs on tho n^ heavy 3G0 alone, and largo conquer E. and S. 1 to catch Ibundland nch made 3duced to lean Cou- 00 Inhab- )duct was mbly was he Atlan- d has re- irectly by )rtnj*ghtly. sea, giving the Virgo^ nteresting alternate ire is § 15 r-traffic. , and tho tie N. of the dim on coast I sfnks below tho horizon ; but generally the bold mountain-promontory of Cape Chapeau Rouge is the first recognizable shore. Then the deep bight of Placentia Bay opens away on tlio N. After rounding Cape Race (see Iloute 22), the steamsliip stretches away up the Strait Shore past a lino of fishing hamlets, deep fiords, and rocky capes. *' When the mists dispersed, the rocky shores of Newfoundland were cloge upon our left, — lofty clilTs, red and gray, terribly beaten by the waves of the broad ocean. We amused ourselves, as we passed abreast the bays and lieaillandK and ru.i^ged islands, with gazing at the wild scene, and searching out the beauty timidly reposing among the bleak and desolate. On the whole, Newfoundland, to tho voyager from the States, is a lean and bony land, in thin, ragged clothes, with tho smallest amount of adornment. Along the sides of the dull, brown mountains there is a suspicion of verdure, spotted and striped here and there with meagre woods of birch and flr. The glory of this hard region is its coast : a wonderful perplexity of fiords, bays and creeks, islands, peninsuhus and capes, endlessly picturesque, and very often magnifi- cently grand. Nothing can well exceed the headlands and precipices, honeycombed, shattered, and hollowed out into vast caverns, and given up to the thunders and tho fury of tlie deep-sea billows The brooks that How from tho highlands, and fall over cliffs of great elevation into the very surf, and that would be counted features of grandeur in some countries, are here the merest trifles, a kind of jewelry on the hem of the landscape." (Noble.) " The first view of tho harbor of St. John's is very striking. Lofty precipitous clilTs,of hard dark-red sandstone and conglomerate, range along the coast, with deep water close at their feet. Their beds plunge from a height of 4U0 - 700 ft. , at an angle of 70°, right into the sea, whore they are ceaselessly dashed agaiust by the unbroken swellof the Atlantic waves." (Jukes.) 52. St John's, Newfonndland. Arrival from the Sea. — " The harbor of St. John's is certainly one of the most remarkable for bold and effective scenery on the Atlantic shore We were moving spiritedly forward over a bright and lively sea, watching the stem headlands receding in the south, and starting out to view in the north, when we passed Capo Spear, a lofty promontory, crowned with a lighthouse and a signal-staff, upon which was floating the meteor flag of England, and at once found ourselves abreast the bay in front of St. John's. Not a vestige, though, of anything like a city was in sight, except another flag flitting on a distant pinnacle of rock. Like a mighty Coliseum, the sea-wall half encircled the deep water of this outer bay, into which the full power of the ocean let itself under every wind except the westerly. Right towards the coast where it gathered itself up into the greatest massiveness, and tied itself into a very Gordian knot, we cut across, curious to behold 7hen and where the rugged adamant was going to split and let us through. At length it opened, and we looked through, and presently glided through a kind of mountain-pass, with all the lonely grandeur of the Franconia Notch. Above us, and close above, the rugged, brown cliffs rose to a fine height, armed at certain points with cannon, ajd before us, to all appearance, opened out a most beautiful mountain lake, with a little city looking down from the mountain-side, and a swamp of shipping along its shores. We were in the harbor, and before St. John's." (Noble.) Hotels. — The Union House, 379 Water St. (nearly 1 M. from the Custom House), is the best ; Atlantic House, Water St. There are also two or three boarding- houses, which are preferable to the hotels, if a long sta? is to be made. Mrs. Simms's, 353 Water St. , is one of the best of these : and Knight's Home, 173 Water St., is tolerable. The accommodations for visitors to St. John's are not such as might be desired or expected in a city of so much importance. Carriages may be engaged at the stands on Water St. (near tho Post-Offlce). The rate per hour is 80c. Amusements^ generally of merely local interest, are prepared in Temper- ance Hall or the Avalon (Victoria) Rink. Boat-racing is freq[uently carried on at Quiddy-Viddy Pond. Cricket-matches are also played on the outskirts of the city. Post-Office, at the Market House, on Water St. Telegraphy New York, New- foundland, and London Co., at the Market House. <[i«lli«iAigW(>i'n' 190 Route 02. ST. JOHN'S. i! I T I i liH • ■ I I III I '■ \\ Con«ilate«. — Ainorirnn, 140 Water St.; Fronoh, Siprnftl-IIill Rond ; German, 227 Water St. ; Siiaiiiwli, lUi Coeliraiu! St. ; I'drtiinuesc, '^Hr, Water St. MalUAVHy;oiiH leave? St. .lohn's for INirtiijtal Cove, dally ; for Topsail, Ilolyrood, Harbor Main, nriKii.><, May Koberts, and llarhor (iraee. Mondays ami TlmrsdayH (or lifter arrival of mail from llallfa.x) in uinter, and once weekly in sunnner; to Itay Hulls and Ferryiand, \veekly ; to S^faluionier and IMueeutia, on thu day of arrival uf tlio Halifax mail. SteaniHlilpH. — For Bay Vcrd, Old Porllrnn, Trinity, Cntnlina, IlonftvlRtn, Cireenspond, Fogo, Twillinpatc, Exploits Island, Tilt Cove, Little Hay island, Nip- per'rt Harbor, and the Labrador eoa.-^t, fortnightly, on Monday; to Ferr\land, llo- iiewsc, Trt'l)aflsey, Hnrin, St. I'ierro, Harbor IJrlton, IJurgeo, Little Hay (Ln I'oile), nnd Channel, fortnlRlitly, on Thursday or Friday (pas.-ing on to Sydney, C. H.,eiieli nltornato trip) ; to the i)ort.s on Conreptlon Hay several times a week, from I'ortupil Cove (iseo HoutcGO); to Halifax, fortnightly, by the Eastern Steamship Co 's ves- del, the Virf(o ; to Halifax, fortnightly, by vtoaniships of tbo Alluu Liuu; toLoudoo- derry and Liverpool, fortnightly, by the Allan Liuo. St. John's, tlio capital of the Provinco of Mcwfoumlland, is situated in latitude 47' 33' G" N., and longitude 52" 44' 7" W., nnd is built on the slope of a long hill which rises from the shore of a deep and secure har- bor. At the time of the ccn.sus of 1869 there were 22,555 inhabitants in the city (there are now over 25,000): but the population, owing to the peculiar character of its chief industry, is liable at any time to bo in- creased or diminished by several thousand men. The greater part of the citizens are connected with the fisheries, directly or indirectly, and large fleets are despatched from the port throughout the season. Their return, or the arrival of the sealing-stcamors, with their great crews, brings new life to the streets, and oftentimes results in such general "rows" as re- quire the attendance of a large police-force. The interests of the city are all with the sea, from which arc drawn its revenues, and over which pass the fleets which bring in provisions from the Provinces and States lO the S. W. The manufactures of St. John's are insignificant, and consist, for the most part, of biscuit-bakeries and oil-refineries (on the opposite side of the harbor). An immense business is done by the mercantile houses on Water St. in furnishing supplies to the outports (a term applied to all the other ports of Newfoundland except St. .John's); and one firm alone has a trade amounting to $12,000,000 a year. Fpr about one month, during the busy season, the streets are absolutely crowded with the people from the N. and W. coasts, selling their fish and oil, and laying in pro- visions and other supplies for the ensuing year. The commercial interests are served by three banks and a chamber of commerce ; and the literary standard of society is maintained by the St. John's Athena;um and the Catholic Institute. The city is supplied with gas, and water is brought in from a lake 4^ JI. distant, by works which cost $ 360,000. _ " In trying to describe St. .Tohn's, there is some difficulty in applying an adjec- tive to it siifiiciently distinctive and appropriate. We find other cities coupled with words which at once give their predominant characteristic ; London the richest, Pari.s the gayest, St. Petersburg the coldest. In one respect the chief town of New- foundland has, I believe, no rival ; we may, therefore, call it the fishiest of modern ca,_itals. Round a great part of the harbor are sheds, acres in extent, roofed with cod split in half, laid on like slates, drying in the sun, or rather the air, for there is J^^ ST. JOHN'S. Route 52. 191 d ; Ocnnan, I.IIolyrootl, mrsila.vH (or lUT ; to liny t)f arrival of Uonavlstn, IhIiuuI, N'lp. •r\lun(l, He- ' (l-'i I'ollc), ,(J. H.,CMWh oni I'ortiifjial p Co 's vi's- to London- situfitcd in iilt on the ecuro har- ivbitnnts in ing to tlio 3 to be in- psirt of tlio , and large leir return, jrings new \vs" as re- ho city are ivhich pass ites lO the consist, lor posite side tile houses )li"d to all firm alone ne month, the people ng in pro- al interests le literary n and the is brought ig an adjcc- juplcd with the richest, wn of Ncw- ; of modern roofed with for there ia t ^» ^ not much of the former to depend upon The town l« irregular and dirty, l)uilt chleliy of wood, the duuipnesH of the eliuiato renderiug stouo uusuituble." (EnoT Wardurton.) The harbor is small, but deep, and is so thoroughly landlocked that the water is always smooth. Here may generally be seen two or three Uritish and French frigates, and at the close of the season these narrow waters are well filled with the vessels of the fishing-fleets and the powerful sealing- steamers. Along the shores are the fish-stages, Avhere immense quantities of cod, herring, and salmon are cured and made ready for exportation. On the S. shore are several wharves right under the clifi's, and also a float- ing dock which takes up vessels of 800 tons' burden. The entrance to the harbor is called the * Narrows, and is a stupendous cleft in the massive ridge which lines the coast. It is about 1,800 ft. long, and at its narrow- est point is but 6G0 ft. wide. On cither side rise precipitous walls of sand- stone and conglomerate, of which Signal Hill (on the N. side) reaches an altitude of 520 ft., and the southern ridge is nearly 700 ft. high. Vessels coming in from the ocean are unable to see the Narrows until close upon it, and steer for the lofty block-house on Signal Hill. The points at the entrance were formerly well fortified, and during war-time the harbor was closed by a chain drawn across the Narrows, but the batteries are now in a neglected condition, and are nearly disarmed. The city occupies the rugged hill on the N. of the harbor, and is built on three parallel streets, connected by steep side-streets. The houses are mostly low and unpainted wooden buildings, crowding out on the side- walks, and the general appearance is that of poverty and thriftlessness. Even the wealthy merchants generally occupy houses for beneath their station, since they seem to regard Newfoundland as a place to get for- tunes in and then retire to England to make their homes. This prin- ciple was universally acted on in former years, but latterly pleasant villas are being erected in the suburbs, and a worthier architectural appearance is desired and expected for the ancient capital. Water Street is the main business thoroughfare, and follows the curves of the harbor shore for about lA M. Its lower side is occupied by the great mercantile houses which supply " fish-and-fog-land " with provisions, clothing, and household re- quirements; and the upper side is lined with an alternation of cheap shops and liquor-saloons. In the K. part is the Custom House, and near the cen- tre is the spacious building of the Market-Hall and the Post-Office. To the S., Water Street connects with the causeway and bridge of boats which crosses the head of the harbor. Admonished by several disastrous fires, the city has caused Water St. to be built upon in a substantial manner, and the stores, though very plain, are solidly and massively constructed. The Anglican Cathedral stands about midway up the hill, over the old burying-ground. It was planned by Sir Gilbert Scott, the most emi- nent British architect of the pi*esent era, and is in the early English Gothic nii" f p , *. ; ! m 1:1 i 192 Route 52. ST. JOHN'S. architecture. Owing to the inability of the Church to raise sufficient funds (for the missions at tlie outports demand all her revenues), the cathedral is but partly finished, the end of the nave being boarded up and fuvnished with a cheap temporary altai'. The lofty proportions of the interior and the fine Gothic colonnades of stone between the nave and aisles, together with the high lancet-windows, form a pleasant picture. The * Roman Catholic Cathedral is the most stately building in New- foundland, and occupies the crest of the ridge, commanding a noble * view over the city and harbor and adjacent country, and looking through the Narrows on to the open sea. The prospect from the cathedral terrace on a moonlight ni^, it or at the time of a clear sunrise or sunset is especially to be commended. In the front part of the grounds is a colossal statue of St. Peter, and other large statues are seen near the building. The cathe- dral is an immense stone structui'e, with twin towers on the front, and is surrounded with a long internal corridor, or cloister. There are no aisles, but the whole building is thrown into a broad nave, from which the tran- septs diverge to N. and S. The stone of which it is constructed was brought from Conception Bay and from Dunleary, Ireland, and the walls were raised by the free and voluntary labors of the people. Clustered about the cathedral are the Blsho2}''s Palace, the convent and its schools, and St. Boiiaventure^s College (5 professors), where the missionaries are disciplined and the Catholic youth are taught in the higher branches of learning. ♦ Catholicism was founded on the island Vj Sir George Calvert (see Route 54) and by tbe Bishop of Quebec ; suffered persecution from 1762 to 1784, when all priests were banished (though some returned in disguise) ; and pfterwards gained tlie cliief power as a consequence of Irish immigration, upon which the bisliops became arro- gant and autocratic, and tlic Trovince was, practically, governed from Cathedral Hill. The great pile of religious buildings then erected on this commanding height cost over §500,000, and the present revenues of the diocese are princely in amount, being collected by the priest'^., v ho board the arriving fishing-vessels and assess their pcoplii. The Irish Catholics form a great majority of the citizens of St. John's. Near the cathedral are the old barracks of the Royal Newfoundland Companies and the garrisons from the British army. The Military Road runs along the crest of the heights, and affords pleasant views over the harbor. On this road is the Colonial Building^, a substantial structure of gray stone, well retired from the carriage-way, and adorned with a massive portico of Doric columns upholding a pediment which is occupied by the Royal Arms of Great Britain and Ireland. The colonial legislature meets in this building, and occupies plain but comfortable halls. The Government House is N. of the Colonial Building, and is the official man- sion of the governor of the Province (Col. S. J. Hill, C. B.). It was built in 1828-30, and cos. $240,000. The surrounding grounds are pleasantly diversified with groves, flower-beds, and walks, and are much visited by the aristocracy of St. John's, during the shcrt but brilliant summer season. r ST. JOHN'S. Route 52. 193 Relent funds he catliednil nd fuvnished interior and lies, together cling in New- noble * view ; through the \\ terrace on is especially isal statue of The cathe- front, and is are no aisles, ich the tran- sti'ucted was md the walls 3. Clustered ,d its schools, islonarles are f branches of • Route 54) and hen all priests lined the chief s became arro- rom Cathedral nanding height ely in amount, ind assess their M. John's. Newfoundland Tilitary Road ews over the tial structure orned with a h is occupied ial legislature J halls. The official man- It was built ,re pleasantly ch visited by iant summer "!■ *• I Passing out through the poor suburb called "Maggotty Cove," a walk of about 20 minutes leads to the top of * Signal Hill. " High above, on our r., a ruined monolith, on a mountain-peak (Crow's Nest), marks the site oif an old battery, while to the 1., sunk in a hollow, a black bog lies sheltered amid the bare bones "of mother earth, here mainly composed of dark red sandstones and conglomerate, passing down by regular gradations to the slate below. A sudden turn of the road reveals a deep solitary tarn, sone 350 ft. above the sea, in which the guardian rocks retljct their purple faces, and where the ripple of the muskrat, hurrying across, alone disturbs the placid surface. We pass a hideous- looking barrack, and, crossing the soft velvety sward on the crest, reach a little bat- tery, from the parapets of which we look down, down, almost 500 ft. perpat sufi'ering would have ensued had it not been for the citizens of Boston, who despatched a ship loaded with prf , .sions and clothing for gratuitous distribution among the impoverished people. Nov. 7, 1817, another terrible fire occurred here, by which $2,000,000 worth of property was destroyed; and this was followed, within 2 weeks, by a third d! astrous conflagration. This succession of calamities came near resulting in tn abandonment of the colony, and the people were goaded by hunger to a succef^si > of deeds of crime and to oi^nized violations of the laws. In 1825 the first highway •was built (from St. John's to Portugal Cove) ; in 1833 the first session of the Colonial Parliament was held ; and the first steamship in the Newfoundland waters arrived here in 1840. In 1860 the city was convulsed by a terrible riot, arising from politico-religious causes, and threatening wide ruin. An immense mob of armed Irishmen attacked and pillaged the stores on Water St., and filled the lower town with rapine and rob- bery. The ancient organization called the Royal Newfoundland Companies was ordered out and posted near the Market House, where the troops suffered for hours the gibes of the plunderers, until they were fired upon in the twilight, when they returned a point-blank volley, which caused a sad carnage in the insurgent crowd. Then the great Cathedral bells rang out wildly, and summoned all the rioters to that building, where the Bishop exhorted them to peace and forbearance, under pain of excommunication. After a remarkable interview, the next day, be- tween the Bishop aud Gov. Sir Alexander Bannerman, this tragical revolt was ended. In 1870 St. John's had 21 sailing-vessels and 6 steamers engaged in the sealing business, and their crews amounted to 1.584 men. In 1869 (the latest accessible statistics) 688 vessels, with a tonnage of 109,043 tons, and employing 5,466 men, en- tered this port ; and in the same year there were cleared hence 577 vessels, with 4^7 men. PORTUGAL COVE. Route 53. 195 whence they , and crossed Oldie) surrt'n- iued, over the iitia were sent ivorks for lack he town and ' intense cold, sraliantly, and 3dging the en- th a powerful onne, 44 ; and s were landed, togcfher with "1 Halifiix and lorces were de- (lloyal Anieri- )ut the French m Torbay came tt time, a dense a his squadron 96 a formidable lips and several James Wallace, •awn up in the ire body of the for many days, ffectual attempt occurred at St. ■ing would have ship loaded with verished people. DO ,000 worth of by a third d!;' resulting in tsn: r to a Bucccf •=iiou he first highway m of the Colonial d waters arrived politico-religious ishmen attacked 1 rapine and rob- l Companies was luffercd for hours e twilight, when in the insurgent ammoncd all the and forbearance, he next day, be- agical revolt was ed in the sealing ; latest accessible og 5,466 men, en- 677 vessels, with ,^ n 53. The Environs of St. John's. " On either side of the city of St. John's, stretching in a semicircle along the rug- ged coast, at an average radius from the centre of 7 or 8 M., a number of little fish- ing-coves or bays attract, during the sweet and enjoyable summer, all persons who can command the use of a horse to revel in their beauties, liach little bay is but a slice of the high cliffs scooped out by the friction of the mighty pressure of the At- lantic waves , and leading down to its shingled beach, each boasts of a lovely green valley through which infallibly a tumbling noisy trout-burn pours back the waters evaporated from the parent surface." (Lt.-Col. McCrea.) The country about the capital is not naturally productive, but has been made to bring forth fruit and vegetables by careful labor, and now supports a considerable farming population. The roads are fine, being for the most part macadamized and free from mud. 3 M. beyond the city is the Lunatic Asylum, pleasantly situated ia a small forest. Quiddy- Viddy Lake is frequently visited by the people of St. John's. The favorite drive is to Portugal Cove, over a road that has been de- scribed as possessing a " sad and desolate beauty." This road passes the Windsor Lake, or Twenty-Mile Pond, " a large picturesque sheet of water, ■with some pretty, lonely-looking islands." The inn at Portugal Cove looks out on a handsome cascade, and is a favorite goal for wedding-tours from St. John's. " The scenery about Portugal Cove well repays the ride of nearly 10 M. on a good road r^v^m St. John's. It is wildly romantic, and just before entering the village is very beautiful. A succession of lofty hills on each side tower over the road, and shut out everything but their conical or mammillated peaks, covered with wild stunted forest and bold masses of I'ock, breaking through with a tiny waterfall from the highest, which in winter hangs down in perpendicular ridges of yellow ice. Turning suddenly out of one of the wildest scenes, you cross a little bridge, and the romantic scattered village is hanging over the abrupt rocky shore, with its fish-flakes and busy little anchorage open to the sight, closed in the distance by the shores of Conception Bay, lofty and blue, part of which are concealed by the picturesque Belle Isle." (Sir R. Boxnvc.\stlk.) " On approaching Portugal Cove, the eye is struck by the serrated and picturesque outline of the hills which run along the coast from it towards Cape St. Francis, and presently delighted with the wild beauty of the little valley or glen at the mouth of which the cove is situated. The road winds with several turns down the side of the valley, into which some small brooks hurry their waters, fliushing in the sun- shine as they leap over the rocks and down the ledges, through the dark green of the woods. On turning the shoulder of one of the hill-slopes, the view opens upoa Conception Bay, with the rocky points of the cove immediately below." (PaoF. JUK.ES.) Another favorite excursion is to Virginia Water, the former summer residence of the governors of Newfoundland. It is reached by way of the King's Bridge and the pretty little Quiddy- Viddy Lake, beyond which the Ballyhaly Bog is crossed, and the carriage reaches the secluded domain of Virginia Water. It is situated on a beautiful lake of deep water, 3 M. in circumference, "indented with little grass-edged bays, fringed and feathered to the limpid edge with dark dense woods." Beyond this point the drive may be protracted to Logie Bay, a small cove between projecting cliffs, Avith bold aad striking shore scenery. Logie Bay is 4 M., and Tor- bay is 8-9 M. from St. John's, by a fine road which crosses the high and mossy barrens, and affords broad sea-views from the cliffs. The country is thinly settled, and is crossed by several trout-brooks. !■ . ■ 11 196 Route 54. TORBAY. Logie Bay is remarkable for the •wildness of its rock and cliff scenery. " Nothing like a beach is to be found anywhere on this coast, the descent to the sea bting always difficult and generally impracticable. In Logic Bay the thick-bedded dark sandstones and ccmglonierates stand bold and bare in round-topped hills and preci- pices 3 - 400 ft. in height, with occasion.al fissures traversing their jagged cliffs, and the boiling waves of the Atlantic curling around their feet in white eddies or leaping against their sides with huge spouts of foam and spray." (Prof. Jukes.) "Torbay is an arm of the sea. — a short, strong arm with a slim hand and finger, reaching into the rocky land and touching the waterfalls and rapids of a pretty brook. Here is a little village, with Romish and Protestant steeples, and the dwell- ings of fishermen, with the universal appendages of fishing-houses, boats, and flakes. One seldom looks upon a hamlet so picturesque and wild." On the N. shore of the bay is a long line of cliffs, 3-400 ft. high, surf-beaten and majestic, and finely observed by taking a boat out from Torbay and coasting to the N. " Af one point, where the rocks recede from the main front and form a kind of headland, the strata, 6-8 ft. thick, assume the form of a pyramid, from a broad base of a hundred yards or more running up to meet in a point. The heart of this vast cave has partly fallen out, and left the resemblance of an enormous tent with cavernous reff this point ng from the Trinity and rtintee named [idition claims y). It was de- of toleratiou Icr the govern- e reports sent (untry were so onists. Under ifications were ; little pleasure lived about the rass him ; and under his eyes icil that Balti- lurch of Rome, y storm and by ^2d Lord Balti- from the king, ity which corn- land, and estab- orts, and main- outbreak of the irces and fought Llland forts and I, safe asylum in eet, was sailing the fleet of the uarts, Sir David Tied on various urnlng to i'erry- ;r20 years. At the scene of re- t and plundered rrying 90 guns, and Mary, 16, uilt batteries at licted such dam- ide, having lost irnay was driven situated on a he next settle- h and convent, ure harbor of Imon fisheries, nd, situated on an indifferent harbor which lies between Burnt Point and Renewse Head. 3-4 M. inland are the rugged hummocks called the Red Hills, whence the eastern hill range runs 30 M. N. across Avalon to Holyrood. 6-8 M. from Renewse are the tall and shaggy hills called the ButterpotS, which command broad views over Avalon, and from Baj Bulls to the W. shore or Trepassey Bay. The Butterpots of Holyrood are also seen from this point ; and Prof. Jukes counted 80 lakes in sight from the main peak (which is 955 ft. high). S. of this point extends a fatal iron-bound coast, on which scores of vessels, veiled in impenetrable fog or swept inward by resistless storms, have been dashed in pieces. A very slight error in reckoning will throw vessels bound S. of Cape Race upon this shore, and then, if the Cape Race and Ferry land lights are wrapped in the dense black fog peculiar to these waters, the chances of disaster are great. The erection of a fog-whistle on the cape has greatly lessened the perils of navigation here. The ocean steamships An^lo-Saxon^ Argo, and City of PJiiUulelphia were lost on Cape Race. Cape Bace is the S. £. point of Newfoundland, and is a rugged head- land of black slaty rock thrown up in vertical strata. It is provided with a powerful light, 180 ft. above the sea, and visible for 19 M. The great polar current sweeps in close by the cape and turns around it to the W. N. W., forming, together with the ordinary tides and the bay-currents, a complexity of streams that causes many wrecks. Icebergs are to be seen off this shore at almost all seasons, and the dense fogs are often illumined by the peculiar white glare which precedes them. Field-ice is also common here during the spring and early summer, but is easily avoided by the warning of the " ice bliiik." Throughout the summer and autumn the fog broods over this shore almost incessantly, and vessels are navigated by casting the lead and following the soundings which are marked out with such precision on the Admi- ralty charts. 6 M. E. of Cape Race is the Ballard Bank, which is 18 M. long and 2 - 12 M. wide, with a depth of water of 15 - 26 fathoms. Cape Race is distant, by great-circle sailing, from New York, 1,010 M. ; Boston, 820; Portland, 779 ; St. John, N. B., 715; Halifax, 463; Miramichl, 492; Quebec, 836; Cape Clear, 1,713 ; Galway, 1,721; Liverpool, 1,970. The Orand Banks of Newfoundland are about 50 M. E. of Cape Race. They extend for 4 degrees N. and S. and 5 degrees E. and W. (at 45" N. latitude) lunning S. to a point. They consist of vast submerged sand- banks, on which the water is from 30 to 60 fathoms deep, and are strewn with shells. Here are found innumerable codfish, generally occupying the shallower waters over the sandy bottoms, and feeding on the shoals of smaller fish below. They pass out into the deeper waters late in Novem- ber, but return to the Banks in February, and fatten rapidly. Immense fleets are engaged in the fisheries here, and it is estimated that over 100,000 men are dependent on this industry. Throughout a great part of the spring, summer, and fall, the Grand Banks are covered by rarely broken fogs, through which falls an almost incessant slow rain. Sometimes these fogs are so dense that objects within 60 ft. are totally invisible, at which times the fishing-vessels at anchor are liable to be run down by the great Atlantic steamers. The dangerous proximity of icebergs (which drift across and ground on the Banks) is indicated by the sudden and intense coldness which they send through even a midsummer day, by the peculiar white glare in the air about them, and by the roaring of the breakers on their sides. It was on the Grand Banks, not far from Cape Race, that the first battle of the Seven Years' War was fought. June 8, 1756, the British 60-gun frigates Dunkirk r ifi^ I Mi' I? ' I » |; ^ 200 Route 55, THE GRAND BANKS. and Defiance were cruising about in a dense fog, when they met the French men-of* war Akide. and Lys. For five hours the battle continued, and a continual can- nonade was kept up between the hostile ships. The French were overmatched, but fought valiantly, inflicting heavy losses on the assailants (the Dunkirk alone lost 90 men). When they finally surrendered, the Lys waa found to contain $400,000 la specie and 8 companies of infantry. The vicinity of Cape Race was for some time the cruising-p^round of the U. S. frigate Constitution, in 1812, and in these waters she captured the Ac/iona, the Ade- line, and other vessels. Near the edge of the Grand Bank (in lat. 41° 41' N., long. 55° 18' W.) occurred the famous sea-fight between the Constitution and the Guerricre, whose result filled the United States with rejoicing, and impaired the prestige of the British navy. On the afternoon of Aug. 19, 1812, the Constitution sighted the Guerridre, and bore down upon her with double-shotted batteries. The British ship was somewhat in- ferior in force, but attacked the American with the confidence of victory. The Con- stitution received several broadsides in silence, but when within half pistol-shot dis- charged her tremendous batteries, and followed with such a fire of deadly precision that the Guerriire was soon left a dismasted and shattered wreck. The British ship then surrendered, having lost 101 men in the action, while her antagonist lost but 14. The Guerricre had 38 guns, and the Constitution had 44. Among the American privateers that cruised about the Grand Banks in 1812 - 14, none was more successful than the Mammoth, of Baltimore. She captured the ships Ann and Eliza, Urania, Anishy, Dobson, Sallust, Uniza, Sarah, Sir Home Popham, Champion, Mentor, and many other rich prizes. t ( " Far off by stormy Labrador — Far oft' the Banks of Newfoundland, W here angry seas incessant roar. And I'ogpy mists their wings expand, The fishing-schooners, black and low, For weary mouths soil to and fro." ;t. 55. St. John's to Labrador.— The Northern Coast of New- foundland. The mail-steamer Leopard leaves St. John's, N. F., every alternate Monday during the season of navigation, and visits the chief outports on the N. coast (so called). The fares are as follows: St. John's to Old Perlican or Bay Verd, $2, — steer- age, $1.50; to Trinity, §4.40, — steerage, $2; to Bonavista, $650, — steerage, $2.80; to Grcenspond, $6, — steerage, $3; to Fogo, .$6.50; to Twillingate, $7; to Exploits Island, $ 7.50 ; to Tilt Cove, Little Bay Island, or Nipper's Harbor, $ 8, — steerage, $4.50; to Battle Harbor, ^12. At Battle Harbor the Leopard meets the Hercules, the Labrador mail-stc;imer. The fare on the Labrador steamer is ^ 2 a day, which includes both passage and meals. The northern boats arc powerful and seaworthy, but the fare at their tables is necessarily of the plainest kind. The time which will be required for the Labrador trip is nearly four weeks (from St. John's back to St. John's again). The cxpen.'^o is about $50. The journey should bo begun before the middle of July, in order to avail of the short summer in these high latitudes. It would be prudent for gen- tlemen who desire to make this tour to write early in the season to the agents of tho steamship lines, to assure themselves of due connections and to learn other particu- lars. Mr. J. Taylor Wood is the agent at Halifax for the steamer from that port to St. John's; and Walter Grieve & Co., St. John's, N, F., are the agents for the Northern Coastal Line. Passing out tween the stern and frowning portals of the harbor of St. John's, the steai >r soon takes a northerly course, and opens tho indenta- tion of Loffie Bay on the W. (see page 196). After running by the tall cliffs of Sugar Loaf and Red Head (700 ft. high), Torbay is seen opening to the W., within which is the village of the same name. 'encli men-of- >ntinual can- [iiatched, but alone loft 90 $400,000 in of the U. S. onUf the Ade- W.) occurred e result filled sh navy. On !re, and bore somewhat in- y. The Con- istol-shot dis- idly precision e British ship )nist lost but I in 1812 -14, captured the /», Sir Home t of New- [onday during St (so called). , $2, — stcer- •0, — Hteerage, illingate, $ 7 ; i Harbor, $ 8, '^eop'ard meets 1 pa.ssage and at their tables f the Labrador The expense July, in order udent for gen- ; agents of tho other particu- i that port to igents for the lai'bor of St. tho indenta- ; by the tall een opening T I TRINITY. Route 55. 201 P % About 8 M. beyond Torbay, the Avhite shore of Cape St. Francis is seen on the port bow, and, if the water is rough, tlio great breakers may bo seen whitening over the rocks which are called tho Brandies. Tho course is now laid across the mouth of Conception Bay, which is seen extending to the S. W. for 30 M. 18 M. from Cape St. Francis, and about 40 M. from St. Jolm's, tho steamer passes between Bay Verd Head and Split Point, and stops off Bay Verd, a village of about 600 inhabitants, situated on a broad and unsheltered bight of the sea. Tho fishing-grounds in this •» icin- ity are among the best on the American coast, and attract largo fleets of boats and schooners. The attention of the villagers is divided between farming and fishing, the latter industry being by far tho most lucrative. Roads lead out from Bay Verd S. to Carbonear and Harbor Grace (see Route 56), and N. W. to the settlements on Trinity Bay. Soon after leaving Bay Verd, the steamer passes Baccalieu Island, a high and ridgy land 3i M. long, and nearly 2 AI. from the main. On its N. end is a pow- erful flashing light, elevated 380 ft. above the sea, and visible for 28 M. Although Cabot was the first professional discoverer (if tho term may be used) to visit and explore the shores of Newfoundland, there is no doubt that these waters had long been the resort of tho fishing-fleets of the Normans, Bretons, and Basques. Lescarbot claims that they had fished off these shores "for many centuries," and Cabot applied the name ''Baccalaos" to tho country because "in tho seas there- about he found so great multitude.s of certain biggo fishes, much like unto Tunnies (which the inhabitants call Baccalaos), that they sometimes stayed his shippes." Baccalaos is the ancient Basque name for codfish, and its extensive use by the natives in place of their own word Apegi^ meaning the same tiling, is held as con- clusive proof that they had been much in communication with Basque fishermen before the arrival of Cabot. Cabot gave this name to the continent as far as he explored it, but in the map of 1040 it is applied only to the islet which now re- tains it. On her alternate trips the vessel rounds in about Grates Point, and stops at Old Perlican (see Route 57). Otherwise, it runs across the mouth of Trinity Bay for about 20 j\I., on a N. W. course, and enters the harbor of Trinity, 115 M. from St. John's. The entrance is bold and imposing, and the harbor is one of the best on the island, affording a land-locked anchor- age for the largest fleets. It is divided into two arms by a high rocky peninsula (380 ft. high), on whose S. side are the wharves and houses of the town. Trinity has about 1,500 inhabitants, and is a port of entry and the capital of the district of Trinity. Considerable farming is done in the coves near the head of the harbor. Roads lead out to the S. shore (see Route 57), and also to Salmon Cove, 5 M ; English Harbor, 7; Ragged Harbor, 16; and Catalina, 20. On leaving Trinity Harbor, the course is S. E. until Green Bay Head and the Horse Chops are passed, when it turns to the N. E., and runs along within sight of a high and cliff'y shore. Beyond the Ragged Isles is seen Green Island, where there is a fixed white light, visible for 15 M., around which (through rough water if the wind is E.) the vessel passes, threading a labyrinth of shoals and rocks, and enters the harbor of Catalina, re- 9* 202 Route 55. BONAVISTA. • I' • i; II ? !■: fci; I, mm M markable for its sudden and frequent intermittent tides. The tovn of Catalina lias 1,300 inliabitants, with 2 churclies, of whicli tliat of the Epis- copalians is a fine piece of architecture, though built of wood. The main partof tho settlement is on the W. side of the harbor, and has a consider- able maritime trade. The adjacent waters abound in salmon, and deli- cious edible whelks are found on the rocks. Besides the highway to Trinity (20 ^I.), a rugged road leads N. to Bonavista in 10 M. Catalina was visited in 1534 by Cartier, who named it St. Catherine. On leaving Catalina Harbor, North Head is passed, and after running N. E. by N. 3 M. Flowers Head is left on the port bow. About 2 M. be- yond, the Bird Islets are seen on the 1., near which is the fishing-settlement o{ Bird Island Cove (670 inhabitants), with its long and handsome beach. A short distance inland is seen the Burnt Ridge, a line of dark bleak hills rising to a height of 500 ft. The Dollarman Bank, famous for codfish, is now crossed, and on the 1. is seen Cape Largent and Spiller Point, off which ai'O the pi'ecipitous and tower-like * Spiller Jiocks, surrounded by the sea. The steamer now passes Cape Bonavista, on which is a red-and-whit© flashing-light, 150 ft. above the sea, and visible for 15 M. The re-discovery of Newfoundland (after the Northmen's voyages 5 centuries be- fore) was effected in June, 1497, by Cabot, a Venetian in the service of Henry VII. of England, sailing in the ship Matthew, of Bristol. He gave the name of Bona Vista (" Fair View "), or Prima Vista (" First View "), to the first point of the coast which ho saw, and that name has since been attached to this northerly cape, since it is believed that this was the location of the new-found shore. (The reader of Bid- die's *' Memoirs of Sebastian Cabot " will, however, be much puzzled to know what point, if any, Cabot actually saw on these coasts.) The rocks and shoals to the N. arc prolific in fish, and are visited by great flotillas of boats. After rounding the light, the steamer enters Bonavista Bay, a great bight of the sea extending between Capes Bonavista and Freels, a dis- tance of 37 M. About 4 M. S. W. of the cape, the steamer enters the har- bor of Bonavista, an ancient marine town with 2,600 inhabitants and 3 churches. It is the capital of the district of the same name, and is also a port of entry, having a large and increasing commerce. The harbor is not secure, and during long N. W. gales the sea breaks heavily across the entrance. The Episcopal church is a fine building in English Gothic architecture, but the houses of the town are generally mean and small. Considerable farming is done on the comparatively fertile lands in the vicinity, and it is claimed that the climate is much more genial and the air more clear than on the S. shores of the island. The town is 146 M. from St. John's, and is 30 M. by road from Trinity and 10 M. from Catalina. It is one of the most ancient settlements on the coast, and signalized itself in 1696 by beating off" the French fleet which had captured St. John's and ravaged the S. coasts. BONA VISTA BAY. Roicie 55. 203 he toyrn of of the Epis- The main a consider- n, and deli- highway to I. Catalina fter running >ut 2 M. be- g-settlement ome beach. bleak hills r codfish, is nt, off which by the sea. ;d-and-whito centuries be- vice of Henry name of Bona nt of the coast rly cape, since I reader of Bid- l to know what hoals to the N. Ray, a great Creels, a dis- iters the har- 3itants and 3 and is also a he harbor is ily across the iglish Gothic n and small, lands in the enial and the •wn is 146 M. rom Catalina. nalized itself t. John's and ^ Bonansia Bay. A road leads S. W. from Bonarista to Birchy Cove, 9 M. ; Amherst Cove, 12; King's Cove, 20 ; Keels Cove, 26 ; Tickle Cove, 33 ; Open Hole, 3(3 ; Plato Cove, 38 ; and Indian Arm, 43. King^s Cove is a village of Labrador fishermen, with 550 inhabitants and 2 churches. It is on a narrow liarbor between the lofty clifTs of the coast range, through whose passes a road runs S. to Trinity in 13 M. 3 M. from King's Cove ia Broart Cove village, under the shadow of the peak of Southern Ilen'l. Keels is 6 M. from King's Cove, and dopulation is e, being the also Route inely broken, . . As wo pass ally changing )n our right, )f the island, the windows, d with a mul- )untain pyra- lins split and esque masses )ud8, and be- c Switzerland 345 ft. high) jssel steams I ¥^ in to the W., up tho Bay of Notre Dame, soon passing Fogo Head, and opening tho Ciiange Ishmd Tickles on tho S. Change Island is tlien seen on the 1., and tho course is laid across to the lofty and arid hills of Bacca- lieu Island. At 22 M. from Fogo the steamer enters the harbor of Twil- lingate (tho Anglicized form of Toulinguct, tho ancient French namo of the port). The town of Twillingate is the capital of tho district of Twil- lingate and Fogo, tho most northerly political and legal division of New- foundland, and has a population of 2,790, with 3 churches. It is situated on two islands, and the sections are connected by a bridge. Farming is carried on to a considerable extent in tlie vicinity, but with varying suc- cess, owing to tho sliort and uncertaif -ummers. The houses in tho town are (as usually in the coast settlements) very inferior in appearance, snugness and warmth being the chief objects sought after in their archi- tecture. The finest breed of Newfoundland dogs were formerly found about the Twillingate Isle!", and were generally distinguished by their deep black color, with a white cross on the breast. They were smaller than tho so-called Newfoundland dogs of America and Britain; were almost amphibious ; and lived on fish, salted, fresh, or decayed. Like the great mahogany-colored dogs of Labrador, these animals were distinguished for rare intelligence and unbounded affection (especially for children) ; and were exempt from hydrophobia. A Newfoundland dog of pure blood is now worth from $ 75 to « 100. The steamer passes out of Twillingate Harbor and runs by Gull Island. The course is to the S. \V., off the rugged shores of the Black Islets, and the N. promontory of the great New World Island. 14 M. from Twillingate she reaches the post-town of Exploits Island, a place of 530 inhabitants, with a large fleet of fishing-boats. (See also Route 58.) From Exploits Island the Bay of Notre Dame is crossed, and the liarbor of Tilt Cove is entered. This village has 770 inhabitants, and is prettily situated on the border of a picturesque lake. The vicinity is famous for its copper-mines, which were discovered in 1857 and opened in 1865. Be- tween 1865 and 1870, 45,000 tons of ore, valued at $1,180,810, were extracted and shipped away. It is found in pockets or bunches 3 - 4 ft. thick, scattered through the heart of the hills, and is secured by level lun- nels several thousand feet long, connected with three perpendicular main shafts, 216 ft. deep. There is also a valuable nickel-mine here, withalode 10 inches thick, worked by costly machinery, and producing ore worth $ 332 a ton. A superior quality of marble is found in the vicinity, but is too far from a market to make it worth while to quarry. The male inhab- itants of Tilt Cove are all miners. The next stopping-place is at Nippcr^s Harbor, a small fishing-village 10 M. S. W. of Tilt Cove. The harbor is tlie best on the N. shore of the Bay of Notre Dame, and lies between the Nipper's Isles and the mainland. On alternate trips the mail-steamer calls also at Little Bay Island^ 6 - 8 M. S. of Nipper's harbor. 206 Jioute 56. CONCEPTION BAY. Tilt Cove was the terminus of the Northern Coast Postal Route until the estab. lishincnt of the niail-servico on the Labrador coast, and it is not probable that the steamers will go N. of that point if the liabrador line ia discontinued. It is but a ehort distance from Tilt Cove to the Frencli Sliure (see lioute Gl). In running from Tilt Cove to the Labrador, the steamer first passes out around Cape St. John, and tlien talces a course almost due N., and far out from the land. Belle Isle, Quirpon, and the other points which may be distantly visible from the ship, are described in Route 61, adfnem. At Battle Harbor (see Route 62) the new route of the Northern Coastal steamer ends, and the freight, mails, and passengers bound for other ports are transferred to another vessel. The Labrador Coast, see Routes C2 and 63. h\ i 56. St John's to Conception Bay. Mail-stages leave St. John's every morning for Portugal Cove, distant OJ M. At this point tiie traveller meets the steamer Lizzie, whose route was as follows, during the navigable season of 1874 : Tuesday, leaves Harbor Grace for Ciiri.^near, Portu- gal Cove, and Bay Roberts ; Wednesday, leaves Bay Roberts for Bngus, Portugal Cove, Carbonear, and Harbor Grace ; Thur^df-y, leaves Harbor Grace for Carbonear, Portugal Cove, and Brigus ; Friday, leaves Brigus for Portugal Cove and Harbor Grace ; Saturday, leaves Harbor Grace for Portugal Cove, Brigus, Carbonear, and Harbor Grace. Fares. — Portugal Cove to Brigus, 18 M., fare $1.40 ; to Carbonear, 20 M. ; to Bay Roberts, 20 M. ; to Harbor Grace, 20 M., fare, igL-OO. There is also a road extending around Conception Bay. It is 20 M. from St. John's to Topsail, by way of Portugal Cove, passing Beachy, Broad, and Horse Coves. The more direct route leads directly across the N. purt of Avalon from St. John's to Topsail. Tlie chief villages and the distances on tliis road are as follows : St. John's to Topsail, 12 M. ; Killigrews, 18; Ilolyrood, 28; Chapel's Cove, 33; Harbor Main, 34^ ; Salmon Cove, 37 ; Colliers, 40 ; Brigus, 1(5 ; Port do Grave, 61 ; Spaniard's Bay, 66; Harbor Grace, 63; Carbonear, 67f ; Salmon Cove, 72; Spout Cove. 76i ; Western Bay, 82; Northern Bay, 87 1 Island Cove, 93i; CapUu Cove, 97 ; Bay Verd, 105. The stage-road, after leaving St. John's, traverses a singular farming country for several miles, and then enters a rugged region of liills. Portu- gal Cove is soon reached, and is picturesquely jlcuated on the ledges near the foot of a range of highlands. It contains ov^r 700 inliabitants, with 2 churches, and has a few small farms adjacent (see page 196). Caspar Cortereal explored this coast in the year 1600, and named Conception Bay. He carried home such a favorable account that a Portuguese colony was es- tablished at the Cove, and 60 ships wer^ sent out to the fisheries. Ir 1578, 400 sail of vessels were seen in the bay at one time, prosecuting the fisheries under all flags. The colony waa broken up by the English lleet under Sir Francis Drake, who also drove tlie French and Portuguese fishermen from the coast. Belle Isle lies off shore 3 M. from the Cove, whence it may be visited by ferry- boats (also from Topsail). This interesting island is 9 M. long and 3 M. wide, and is traversed by a line of bold hills. It is famous for the richne.«8 of its deep black Boil, and produces wheat, oats, potatoes, and hay, with the best of butter. The lower Silurian geological fornution is here finely displayed in long parallel strata, amid which iron ore is found. The cliffs which ft-ont on the shore are very bold, and sometimes overhang the water or else are cut into strange and fantastic shapes by the action of the sea. Two or three brilliant little waterfalls are seen leaping from the upper levfls. Belle Isle has 600 inhabitants, located in two villages. Lance Cove, at the W. end, and the Beach, on the S. HARBOR GRACE. Route 56. 207 until the estab* sbablo tliat thu td. It is but a rst passes out ^., and far out kvhich may be ijinem. rtliern Coastal for other ports istantOiM. At 9 follows, durinp ri."uear, Portu- Bngus, Portugal e for Carbonear, ovc atid Harbor Carbonear, and onear, 20 M. ; to 1} 20 M. from St. road, and Ilorso Avalon from St. id are a8 follows : ajwrs Cove, 33 ; )rt de Grave, 61 ; Cove, 72 ; Spout li; Caplin Cove, igular farming if hills. Portu- the ledges near liabitants, with 95). imed Conception EC colony was es- Ir 1578, 400 sail !S under all flags. Drake, who also ! visited by ferry- id 3 M. wide, and of its deep black of butter. Tlie ^ parallel strata, ire are very bold, I fantastic shapes arc seen leaping CO villages, Lance I I The steamer runs out to the S. W. between Belle Isle and the bold heights about Portugal Cove and Broad Cove, and passes up Conception Bay for 18 M., with the lofty Blue Hills on the S. It then enters the nar- row harbor of Erigus {Sullivan's Hotel), a port of entry and the capital of the district of Brigus. It has 2,000 inhabitants, with Wesleyan, Roman, and Anglican churches, and a convent of the Order of Mercy. The town is built on the shores of a small lake between two rugged hills, and pre- sents a picturesque appearance. It has over 800 boats engaged in the cod-fishery, and about 30 larger vessels in trading and fishing. There are a few farms in the vicinity, producing fair crops in return for great labor. The best of these are on the bright meadows near Clark's Beach, 4 M. from the town; and several prosperous villages are found in the vicinity. Near the town is the singular double peak called the Twins, and a short distance S. W. is the sharp and conical Thumb Peak (598 ft. high). The steamer passes out from the rock-bound harbor and runs N. by the bold hill of Brigus Lookout (400 ft. high). Beyond Burnt Head, Bay de Grave is seen opening on the 1., with several hamlets, aggregating 2,600 in- habitants. Cupids and Bareneed are the chief of these villages, the latter being on the narrow neck of land between Bay de Grave and Bay Roberts, 2i M. from Blow-me-down Head. Green Point is now rounded, and the course is laid S. W, up Bay Roberts, passing Coldeast Point on the port bow and stopping at the village of Bay Eobeits {Moore's Ilotd). This place consists of one long street, with 2 churches and sevc; al wharves, and has 1,000 inhabitants, most of whom spend the summer on the Lab- rador coast. Passing out from Bay Roberts, Mad Point is soon left abeam, and Span- iard's Bay is seen ci the 1., entering the land for 3^ M., and dotted with fishing-establishments. The bay is surrounded by a line of high hills, on wliose promontories are two or three chapels. The hamlet and church of Bryant's Cove are next seen, in a narrow glen at the base of the hills, and the steamer passes on around the dangerous and surf-beaten Harbor- Grace Islands (off Feather Point), on one of which is a revolving white- and-red flash light, 151 ft. above the sea, and visible for 18 M. Harbor Grace (two inferior inns) is the second city of Newfoundland, and is the capital of the district of Harbor Grace. It has 6,770 inhab- itants, with several churches, a weekly newspaper, and fire and police departments. The town is built on level land, near the shelter of the Point of Beach, with its wharves well protected by a long sand-strip. The bay is in the form of a wedge, decreasing from li M. in width to .J M., and is insecure except in the sheltered place before the city. The trade of this port is very large, and about 200 ships enter the harbor yearly. There is a stone court-liouse and a strong prison, and the Con- vent of the Presentation is on the Carbonear road. The Roman Catliolic fT ^1 'I ■H 208 Jtoute 57. CARBONEAR. cathedral is the finest building in the city, and its high and symmetrical dome is a landmark for vessels entering the port. The interior of the cathedral is profusely ornamented, having been recently enlarged and newly adorned. Most of the houses in the city are mean and unprepos- sessing, being rudely constructed of wood, and but little improved by painting. A rugged road runs N. W. 15 M. across the peninsula to Heart'g Content (see Route 57). A road to the N. reaches (in 1^ M.) the farming village of Mosf/uito Cove, snugly embosomed in a pretty glen near the cultivated meadows. About the year 1610 a colony was planted here by the agents of tliat English company in which were Sir Francis Bacon, the Earl of iSouthauipton, and other knights and nobles. King James I. granted to this company all the coast between Capes Bonavista aud St. Mary, but their enterprise brought uo pecuniary returns. Carbonear is 1^ M. by road from Mosquito Cove (3 M. from Harbor Grace), and is reached by the steamer after passing Old Sow Point and rounding Carbonear Island. This town has 2,000 inhabitants, with 3 churches, and Wesleyan and Catholic schools. Several wharves are built out to furnish winter-quarters for the vessels and to accommodate the large fish-trade of the place. It is 21 M. by boat to Portugal Cove, across Conception Bay. This town was settled by the French early in the 17th century, under the name of Carboniere, but was soon occupied by the British. In 1696 it was one of the two Newfoundland towns that re- mained in the hands of the English, all the rest having been captured by Iberville's French fleet. Other marauding French squadrons were beaten off by the men of Carbonear in 1705 - 6, though the adjacent coast was devastated ; and in 1762 Carbonear Island was fortified and garrisoned by the citizens. The mail-road runs N. from Carbonear to Bay Verd, passing the villages of Cro- ker's Cove, 1 M. ; Freshwater, 2 ; Salmon Cove, 5 ; Perry's Cove, 8 ; Broad Cove, 15; Western Bay, 17; Northern Bay, 20 ; Job's Cove, 25; Island Cove, 27; Low Point, 33 ; Bay Verd, 38. Tliere is no harbor along this shore, the " coves " being mere open bights, swept by sea-winds and aflbrdiug insecure anchorage. The in- habitants are engaged in the fisheries, and have made some attempts at farming, in defiance of the early aud biting frosts of this high latitude. Salmon Cove is near the black and frowning cliffs of ti^almon Cove Head, and is famous for its great num- bers of salmon. Near Ochre Pit Cove are beds of a reddish clay wliich is u?ed for paint, and it is claimed that the ancient Bcecthic tribes obtained their name of " lied Indians " from their custom of staiuiug themselves with this clay. Hay Verd, see page 201. 57. Trinity Bay. This district may be visited by taking the Northern Coastal steamer (see Route 55) to Bay Verd, Old Perlican, or Trinity ; or by passing from St. John's to Harbor Grace by Route 5li, and thence by the road to Heart's Content (15 M.). The latter Tillage is about 80 M. from St. John's by the road around Conception Bay. Heart's Content is situated on a fine harbor about half-way up Trinity Bay, and has 880 inhabitants, most of whom are engaged in the Labrador fisheries or in shipbuilding. Tlie scenery in the vicinity is very striking, partaking rf the boldness and startling contrast which seems peculiar to this sea-girt Province. Just back of the village is a small lake, over id symmetrical interior of the yr enlarged and and unprepos- le improved by >art'8 Content illage of Mosquito duws. About the company in which lights and nobU'S. ipes Bonavista aud M. from Harbor I Sow Point and abltants, with 3 vharves are built ccommodate the agal Cove, across early in the 17th occupied by the d towns that re- )een captured by Tons were beaten djacent coast was nd garrisoned by r the villageB of Cro- 3ve, 8 ; Broad Cove, and Cove, 27 ; Low the "coves" being mchorage. The in- snipts at farming, in inlmon Cove is near us for its great nuni- ly which is ufed for lined their name ot this clay. earner (see Route 55) It. John's to lIarl)or (15 M.) The latter eption Bay. alf-way up Trinity cd in tlie Labrador ty is very striking, seems peculiar to la small lake, over T I TRINITY BAY. Route 57. 209 which rises the dark mass of Mizzen Hill, 604 ft. high. Heart's Content derives its chief importance and a world-wide fame, from the fact that here is the W. terminus of the old Atlantic telegraph-cable. The office of the company is near the Episcopal Church, and is the only good building ill the town. " Throb on, strong pulse of thunder I beat From nnsworing beacli to beach ; Fuse nutions in thy kindly heat. And melt the chains of each I " Wild terror of the sky obove, Ulidc tnined and dumb below t Bear gontly. Ocean's cnrrier-dove, Thy errands to and fro. " Weave on, swift shuttle of the Lord, Beneath the deep so far. The bridal robe of earth's accord. The funeral shroud of war ! " For lo I the fall of Occons wall Space mncked and time outrun ; And ruiind the world the thought of all Is ns the thotipbt of one." John G. Whittiek s Cable Hymn. The road running N. from Heart's Content lead"? to New Perliran, 3 M. ; Sillee Cove, 6 M. ; Hants Harbor, 12 ; Seal Cove, 19 ; Lance Cove, 24 ; Old Perlican, 28 ; aud Grate's Cove, 34. Neto Perlican is on the safe harbur of the same name, and has about 420 inhabitants, most of whom are engaged in the cod-fishery and in ship- building. A packet-boat runs from this point across the Bay to Trinity. Near the village is a large table-rock on which several score of names have been inscribed, some of them over two centuries old. Old Perlican is about the size of Heart's Content, and is scattered along the embayed shores inride of Perlican Island. It is overlooked by a cre.^cent-shaped range of dark and barren hills. The Northern Coastal steamer calls at this port once a month during the season of navigation. " O lonely Bay of Trinity, O dreary shores, give ear! Lean down into the white-lipped sea, The voice of God to hear f " From world to world His couriers flv, Thought-winged and shod with fire ; The nngel of His stormy sky Hides down the sunken wire. •' What saith the herald of the Lord ? ' The world s long strife is done : Close wedded by thtit mystic cord, Its continents are one. "'And one in heart, ns one in blood, Hliall nil her peoples be : The liands ot hiiinnn brotherhood Are cluspud beneath the sea.' The southern road from Heart's Content loads to Heart's Desire, 6 M. ; Heart's Delight, 9; Shoal Bay, 14 ; Witless Bay, 19 : Green Harbor, 23; Hope All, 28; New Harbor, '-^l', and DildoCov", 35. The villages on this rtmd arc all small, and are nio.Htly iiiliabited by the toilers of the sea. The country about Green Harbor and Hope .\ll is milder and more pivstoral than arc the clilT-bound regions on either side. Kiom Now Harbor a road runs K. by Spaniard's Bay (Conception Bay) to St. John's, in C8 M. To the S. and W. lie the fishing-hunilcts on the narrow isthmus of Avalon, which separates IMacentia Bay from Trinity Bay by a strip of land 7 M. long. Joining the peninsula of Avalon to the main island. The deep estuary called Bull Arm runs up amid the mountains to within 2 M. of the Conie-by-chancc River of Placentia Bay, and here it is proposed to make a canal joining the two bays. Hearths Kase is 15 M from Heart's *'ontent (by boat), and is at the S. entrance of llandoin Sound. It is a fishing-village with 200 inhabitants and a church. To the S. is the gnind cliff-scenery around St. Jones Harl)or, and the long and river- like Deer Harbor, fliled with islands, at wlin.su head Is Centre Hill, an isolated con6 over 1,000 ft. high. From the sununit of Centre Hill or of Crown Hill may be seea nearly tho whole extent of the IMacentia and Trinity Bays, with their capos and i-'lands, villages and harbors. Just above Heart's 1-Ia.se is Random Island, covering a large area, and separated from t'.e main by the deep and narrow waten-ourses 1 :illod Utindom Sound and Smith's Sound. There is much fine scenery in t^ic sounds and their deep anus, aud snimon-fisliing is here cnrried on to a cnn M. to 2 M. " The eail up Smith's Sound was very beautiful. It is a fine river-like arm of the sea, 1-2 M. wide, with lofty, and in many places prerij)! tons, rocky banks, covered with wood. .... The character of the scenery of Random Sound is wild and beautiful, and con- veying, from its stillness and silence, the fecUng of utter solitude and seclusion." Trinity is the most convenient point from wliich to visit the N. shore of the Bay (see page 201). The southern road runs to Trouty, 7M.; New Bonaventure, 12 M. ; and Old Bonaventure, 18 M. Beyond these settle- ments is the N. entrance to Random:: Sound. 58. The Bay of Notre Dame. Passengers are landed from the Northern Coastal steamer at Fogo, Twillingate, Little Bay Island, Nipper's Harbor, or Tilt Cove, — all ports on this bay (see pages 204, 205). Fogo is situated on Fogo Island, which lies between Sir Charles Ham- ilton's Sound and the Bay of Notre Dame. It is 13 M. long from E. toW., and 8 M. wide, and its shores are bold and rugged. There are 10 fishing- villages on the island, with nearly 2,000 inhabitants (exclusive of Fogo), and roads lead across the hills from cove to cove. It is 9 M. by road from Fogo to Cape Fogo; 7 M. to Shoal Bay ; 5 to Joe Batt's Arm (400 inhabitants) ; 7 to Little Seldom-come-by ; and 9 to Seldom-come-hy, a considerable village on a fine safe harbor, which is often filled with fleets of sclioon- ers and brigs. If ice on the coast or contrary winds prevent the fishermen from reaching Labrador in the early summer, hundreds of sail boar away for this harbor, and wait here until the northern voyage is practicablij. There is no other secure anchorage for over 50 M. down the coast. Tillon Harbor is on the E. coast of the island, and is a Catholic village of about 400 inhabitants. The principal settlements reached by boat from Fogo are Apsey Cove, 14 M. : Indian Islands, 14; Blackhead Cove, 14 ; Rocky Bay, 25 ; Barr'd Islands, 4 ; and Change Islands, 8. 20 M S. W. is Gander Bay , the outlet of the great Gander-Bay Ponds, which bathe the slopes of the Blue Ilills and the Heart Ridge, a chain of mountains 30 M. long. From Exploits Island (see page 205) boats pass S. 12 M. through a great archipelago to the mouth of the Eiver of Exploits. This noble river de- scends from Red-Indian Pond, about 90 M. to the S. W., and has a strong current with frequent rapids. The Grand Falls are 145 ft. high, where the stream breaks through the Chute-Brook Ilills. An Indian trail leads from near the mouth of the river S. W. across the vast barrens of the in- terior, to the Bay of Despair, on the S. coast of Newfoundland. The River of Exploits flows for the greater part of its course through level lowlands, covered with evergreen forests. It may be ascended in steamers for 12 M., to the first rapid, and from thence to the Bed-Indian Pond by boats (making frequent portages). The river was first ascended by Lieut. Buchan, R. N., in 1810, under orders to find and conciliate the Red Indians, who had fled to the interior after being nearly ex- terminated by the whites. lie met a party of them, and left hostages in their hands while he carried some of their number to the coast. But his guests decamped, and he returned only to find that the hostages had been cruelly murdered, and the tribe had fled to the remote interior. In 1823 three squaws were captured, taken to St. John, loaded with presents, and released ; since which time no Red Indians have been seen, and it is not known whether the tribe is extinct, or has tied to Labrador, RED-INDIAN POND. Route 58. 211 >nr.irK three pidcs «.to*2M. "The ■m of the sea, 1-2 overed with ■wood, icautifiil, and con- Eind seclusion." t the N. shore of mty, 7M.; New )nd these settle- Togo, TwilUngate, 3 on this bay (see Sir Charles Ham- ng from E. to W., jrc are 10 fishing- elusive of Togo), ay, 5 to Joe Batt's ) Seldo7n-come-by, a rith fleets of scuoon- the fishermen from iway for this harbor, »• re is no other secure 1 the E. coast of the principal settlements ands, 14 ; Blackhead nds,8. 20MS.W. h bathe the slopes of long. M. through a great 'bis noble river de- ., and has a strong 45 ft. high, where Indian trail leads barrens of the in- ndland. The River ugh level lowlands, in steamers for 12 Lan Pond by boats 0, under orders to find after being nearly ex- lostages in their hands Kuests decamped, ana ordered, and the tribe •aptured, taken to bt. ^ no Red Indians have ■ has fled to Labrador, or is secluded in some more remote part of the interior. They were very numerouB at the time of the advent of the Europeans, and received the new-comers with con- fidence ; but tlicreafter for two centuries they were hunted down for the sake of the rich furs in their possession, and pradually retin-d to tiie distant inland lakes. In 1827 the Boeothic Society of St. John's sent out envoys to find the lied Indians and open friendly intercourse with them. But tlicy were unable to get sight of a single Indian during long weeks of rambling through the interior, and it is con- cluded that the race is extinct. On the shores of the broad and beautiful Red-Indian Pond Air. Connack found several long-deserted villages of wigwams, with canoes, and curious aboriginal cemeteries. This was evidently the favorite seat of the tribe, and from this point their deer-fences were seen for over 30 M. (see also page 218). Little Bay Island (250 inhabitants), 15 M. from Tilt Cove, is the most favorable point from which to visit Hall's Bay. 8 M. S. W. are the settle- ments at the mouth of Hall's Bay, of which Ward's Harbor is the chief, having 200 inhabitants and a factory for canning salmon. There are valu- able salmon-fisheries near the head of the bay. From Hall's Bay to the N. and W.,and towards White Bay, are the favorite summer feeding-grounds of the immense herds of deer which range, almost unmolested, over the in- terior of the island. The hunting-grounds are usually entered from this point, and sportsmen should secure two or three well-certified Micmac guides. A veteran British sportsman has written of this region : " I know of no country 50 near England which offers the same amount of inducement to the explorer, natu- ralist, or sportsman." It is to be hoped, however, that no future visiters will imi- tiife the atrocious conduct of a party of London sportsmen, who recently entered tiose hunting-grounds and r^assacrod nearly 2,000 deer during the short season, leaving the forests filled with decaying game. Public opinion will sustain the Mic- mac Indians, who are dependent on the deer for their living, and who have declared that they will prevent a repetition of such carnage, or punish its perpetrators in a summary manner. The Indians and the half-breed hunters frequently crclendid fleet carrying 4,000 land-soldiers and 900 cannon, refused to obey his orders to reduce this little French fortress, and sailed back to Britain in disgrace. When France surrendered Newfoundland, in 1713, the soldiers and citizens of Flacentia migrated to Cape Bre- ton ; and in 1744 a French naval expedition under M. de Brotz failed to recapture ifc from the British. This town afterwards became one of the chief ports of the Fvovince ; but has of late years lost much of its relative importance. A road runs hence to St. John's in 80'M. ; also through the settlements on the S. to Distress Cove in 26 M. ; also S. W. 38 M. to Branch, on St. Mary's Bay. Little Flacentia is on a narrow harbor 5 M. N. of Placentia, and has 383 inhabitants. Near this point is a bold peak of the western range in Avalon, from which 67 ponds are visible. Tlie islands in the bay are visited from this point. Ram's Islands (133 inhabitants) are 10 M. dis- tant; Red Island (227 inhabitants) is 12 ^I. W. ; and about 18 M. distant is Mcraslieen Island, which is 21 M. long, and has on its W. coast the Ragged Islands, 365 in number. Tlie great lead-mines at La Manche are 12 M. N. of Little Placentia, on the Isthmus of Avalon, 7 M. from Trinity Bay. At the head of the bay, 33 M. from Little Placentia, is the village of North Harbor, near the great Powder-Horn Hills, and 7 JL beyond is Black River, famous for its wild-fowl and other game. Harbor Buffet is 16 51. from Little Placentia, on the lofty and indented Long Island, and lias 833 inhabitants. Near the S. W. part of Placentia Bay is the town and port uf Uuriii) a station of the Western Coastal steamers (see page 214). ST. MARY'S BAY. Route GO. 213 ouge, and is 48 and is a port of is built along a naintains a large Point Verde and 1 Hill and Castle ^ ic scenery along extend from the tes, which sailed up artillery and other near the channel 1 that " ships goiiis •nch held this post 10 treaty of Utrecht, (v'hich were destroy- (in 1692) with three Varren ran in close batteries at the en- hours' duration, the •ed 14 war-vesFcIs at 5 E. and overran all prize-ships and 600 >rville) destroyed all id the British dread Costabelle, its com- endid fleet carrying to reduce this little France surrendered igrated to Cape Bre- 5 failed to recapture 16 chief ports of the tance. A road runs on the S. to Distress ;entia, and has 383 ■svestern range in is in the bay are nts) are 10 M. dis- )ut 18 M. distant is J. coast the Ragged anche are 12 M. N. n Trinity Bay. At he village of North beyond is Black y and indented Long entia Bay is the town (see page 214). 60. The Western Outports of Newfoundland.— St. John's to Cape Ray. On alternate Thursdays or Fridays afler the arrival of the mails from Europe, the Western Coastal steamer leaves St. Johu's for the outports ou the S. shore ot New- foundland. Fares. — St. John' S ') ; St. Pierre, S 6 50 ; Bl inche, $ 10 ; Channel I age passengers are about half the above priceo the tickets. The trip out and back takes 10 to 12 days. St. John's to Cape Race, see Route 54. Passing through the rocky portals of the harbor of St. John's, tho steamer directs her course to the S. along the iron-bound Strait Shore. After visiting Ferryland and Renewse (see page 198), the Red Hills are seen in the W. ; and beyond the lofty bare summit of Cape Ballard, tho dreaded cliffs of Cape Eaoe (page 199) are rounded well off shore. Off Freshwater Point the course is changed to N. W., and Trepassey Bay is entered. Tho shores are lofty and bare, and open to the sweep of the sea. 8.^ M. from Freshwater Point is Powles Head, on whose W. side the harbor of Trejyassey is sheltered. The town contains 614 inhabitants, most of whom are engaged in the fisheries, and fronts on a secure harbor which is never closed by ice. Roads lead hence to Salmonier (31 M. ) and Renewse. In 1G28 Lord Baltimore's ships of Avalon, the Benediction &n(l the 7jt;lican settlement s) M. from Harbor Uriton. N. of the bay is Long Island, which is 25 M. around, and shulteni the Bay of De« 81>alr, famous for its prolitic salmon-tisherit'S. From the liead of this bay Indiaa trails lead inland to Long I'ond, Kound I'ond, and a great cluster of unvisited lakes situated in a land of forests and mountains. From the farther end of these inland waters diverge the great trails to the Uivcr of Exploits and Hall's Bay. After running out to the S. W. between Sagona Island and Connaigre Head, the course is laid along the comparatively straight coast called tho Western Shore, extending from Fortune Bay to Cape Kay. Crossing the wide estuary of Hermitage Bay, tho bold highlands of Cape La Hune are approached, 12 M. N. of the Penguin Islands. About 25 M. W. of Cape La Hunc the steamer passes the Ramea Islands, of which the isle called Columbo is remarkable for its height and boldness. There is a fishing- community located hero ; and tho August herrings are held as very choice. The old marine records report of tho Ramea Isles : "In which isles are so great abundance of the huge and mightio sea-oxen with great teeth in the moneths of April, May, and June, that there hauo been flfteene buudreth killed there by one email barke in the yeere 1591." In 1597 the English ship Hopeivell entered the harbor of Ramea and tried to plunder the French vessels there of their stores and powder, but was forced by a shore-battery to leave incontinently. About 9 M. W. N. W. of Ramea Columbe, the steamer enters the har- bor of Buxgeo, a port of entry and trading-station of 650 inhabitants, sit- uated on one of tho Burgeo Isles, which hero form several small, snug harbors. This town is the most important on the Western Shore, and is a favorite resort for vessels seeking supplies. 3 M. distant is Upper Burgeo, built on the grassy sand-banks of a small islet; and 7 M. N. is the salmon-fishery at Grandy's Brook, on the line of the N. Y., N. F. and London Telegraph. Beyond tho Burgeo Isles the course is laid along the Western Shore, and at about 25 M. the massive heights at the head of Grand Bruit Bay are seen. 5 M. farther on, after passing Ireland Island, the steamer turns into La Poile Bay, a narrow arm of tho sea which cleaves the hills for 10 M. Tho vessel ascends 3 ^I. to La Poile (Little Bay), a small and decadent fishing-village on the W. shore. The distance from La Poile to Channel, the last port of call, is 30 M., and the coast is studded with small hamlets. Gai-ia Bay is 5 - 6 M. W. of La Poile, and has two or three villages, situated amid picturesque scenery and surrounded by forests. Rose Blanche is midway between La Poile and Channel, and is a port of entry with nearly 500 inhabitants, situated on a small and snug harbor among tho mountains. It has a con- siderable trade with the adjacent fishing-settlements. 8 M. beyond Rose Blanche are the Burnt Islands, and 3 M. farther on are the Dead Islands. At 8-10 M. inland are seen tho dark and desolate crests of the Long- Range Mountains, sheltering the CoJroy Valley. 216 Route Gl. PORT AU BASQUE. The Dead Islandft (French, Lex hies mix Mortx) nn> fo tinmod on acrount of the many fatul wn-ekH whicli have occurred on thoir dark rocks. The name was given utter the Iohh of un enii}?riint-8hi|), when the islaiuls were so fringed witli human corpses that it took a panK of nn'n five dajs to liury tlieui. Oeor^c! llarvi y formerly lived on one of the i.-iands. and saved hundreds of lives by holdly putUiiR out to the wrecked ships. About 1830 tlie JJispntih struck on one of the isles. Miu was full of Inuidjifrants, and her boats could not live in the heavy gale which was rapidly breaking her up, lUit Harvey pushed out in lii.^ row-bout, attended only by his daughter (17 years old) anil a boy 12 years old. He landed every one of the passengers and crew (llJ3 in number) safely, and fed them for tlirce weeks, in.>^o- much that his family had nothing but fish to eat all winter after. In 1838 tlie Glasgow ship Haiikin struck a rock off the isles, and went to pieces, the crew dilut- ing to the stern-rail. In spite of tho heavy sea, Harvey rescued them all (25 in number), by making four trips in his punt. " The whole coast between La I'lile and Cape Kay seems to have been at one time or other strewed w ith wrecks. Kvcry bouse is surrounded with old rigging, spars, n;asts. tails, ships' bells, rudders, wheels, and other matters. Tho houses too contain telescopes, compasses, and por- tions of ships' furniture."' (Prof. Jlkks.) Channel (or Port au Basque) is 3-4 M. W. of the Dead Isles, and 30 M. from La Poile. It is a port of entry and a transfer-stution of the N. Y., N. F. and London Telegraph Company, and has nearly 600 inhabitants, with an Anglican church and several mercantile establishments. Tho fisheries are of much importance, and large quantities of halibut arc caught in the vicinity. A few miles to the W. is the great Table Mt., over Capo Ray, beyond Avhich the French Shore turns to the N. A schooner leaves Port au Basque every fortnight, on tho arrival of tho steamer from St. John's, and carries the mails N. to St. George's Bay, tho Bay of Islands, and Bonne Bay (see Route 61). The steamer, on every alternate trip, runs S. W. from Channel to Syd- ney, Cape Breton. The course is across the open sea, and no land is seen, after the mountains about Cape Ray sink below the horizon, until the shores of Cape Breton are approached. Sydney, see page 150. 6L The French Shore of Newfoundland. — Cape Bay to Gape St. John. It is not likely that any tourists, except, perhaps, a few adventurous yachtsmen, will visit this dislrict. It is destitute of hotels and roads, and has only one short and infrequent mail-packet route. The only settlements are a few widely scattered fishing-villages, inhabited by a rude and hardy class of mariners ; and no form of local government has ever l)een established on any part of the shore. But the Editor is reluctant to pa.>-s over such a vast extent of the coast of the Maritime Provinces without some brief notice, e.>-pcciiilly since this district is in many of its features to unique. The Editor wa** unable, owing to the lateness of tlic sea.«on, to visit the French Shore in person, but has been aided in the preparation of the following notes, both by gentlemen who have traversed the coast and the inland lakes, and by various stjitistics of the Province. It is therefore believed that the ensuing itinerary is correct in all its main features. The distances have been verified by comparison with the British Admiralty charts. The French Shore may be vi.-ited by the trading-schooners which run from port to port throughout its whole extent during the suumier teason. The most interest- ing parts of it may also be seen by taking the mail-packet which leaves Port au Bosque (Channel) fortnightly, and runs N. to Bonne Bay, touching all along tho coast. i CAPE RAY. Route CI. 217 imod on acrount of ks. The name wiis re so Irinf^eil witli In. Oeorgt! llarviy >< l>.v boldly puttinj^ lie of the isles. .«lif 'iivy giile which was boat, attended only led every one of the three weelts, in.^^o- after. In 1838 the 'ces, the rrew clini;- lod tlicni all (2o in t between La I'cile ith wrecks. Kvery lips' bells, rudders, oinpasses, and por- )ead Isles, nnd 30 tion of the N. Y., 600 inhabitants, bli.shmcnts. The !3 of lialibut are great Table Ml., IIS to the N. A 10 arrival of the jleorge's Bay, the I Channel to Syd- d no land i.s seen, iorizon, until the Cape Bay to iturous yachtsmen, has only one short ew widely scattered s ; and no form of ore. But the Editor Maritime Provinces ly of its features to sea.son, to vi.^it the on of the following e inland lalces, and I that the ensuing re been verified by lich run from port The most iuterest- licla kares Port au hing all along tlio The French Shore extends from Capo St. John (N, of Notro Damo Bay) around the .N. and W. coasts of the i.^land to Capo Ily.incladlng the richest val- lev.s and fairest soil of Newfoundland. It is nearly exempt from fogs, borders on tlio most prolific llshing-Kround:*, and i.s called the " Garden of Newfoundland." IJy the treaties of 1713, 17(53, and 1783, the French received the right to catch and cure fish, and to erect huts and stages along this entire coast, — a concession of which they have availed tininselves to the fullest extent. There are several Uritish colonies along the shore, but they live without law or magistrates, since the homo government believes that such appointments would bo against the spirit of the treaties with France (which practically neutralized the coast). The only authority is that which is given by courtesy to the resident clergymen of the settlements. It is 9 M. from Channel to Cape Hay, where the Frencli Shore begins. The dis- tances from this point are given aa between liarbor and harbor, and do not represent the straight course from one outport to another at a great distimco. Cape Kay to Codroy,13 M. ; Capo Anguille, 18 (Crahb's Brook, 46; Middle Branch , 60; Robinson's Point, .')5; Flat Bay, 57; Sandy Point, 06 ; Indian Head, 75) ; Capo St. George, 64 ; Port au Port (Long Point), 84 ; Bay of Islands, 108 ; Cape Gregory, St. Jolin, 400. * Cape Bay is the S. \V. point of Newfoundland, and is strikingly pic- turesque in its outlines. 3 M. from the shore ri.«cs a great table-moun- tain, with sides 1,700 ft. high and an extensive plateau on the summit. Nearer the sea is the Suyar Loaf, a symmetrical conical peak 800 ft. high, N. of which is the Tolt Peak, 1,280 ft. high. These heights may bo seen for 50 M. at sea, and the flashing light on the cape is visible at night for 20 M. From this point St. Taul's Island bears S. W. 42 SI., and Cape North is W. by S. 57 M. (see page 160). Soon after passing out to the \V. of Cape Ray, Cape Anguille is seen on the N., — a bold promontory nearly 1,200 ft. high. Between these capes is the valley of the Great Codroy River, with a farming population of several hundred souls; and along its course is the mountain-wall called the Long Bange, stretching obliquely across the island to the shores of "White Bay. St. George's Bay extends for about 50 M. inland, and its shores aro said to be very rich and fertile, abounding also in coal. The scenery about the hamlet of CraU/s Brook "forms a most lovely and most Kng- lish picture." There arc several small hamlets around the bay, of which Sandy Point is the chief, having 400 inhabitants and 2 churches. The people are rude and uncultured, fond of roaming and adventure; but the moral condition of these communities ranks high in excellence, and great deference is paid to the clergy. The Mi« mac Indians are often seen in this vicinity, and are partially civilized, and devout members of the Catholic Church. The country to the E. is mountainous, merging into wide grassy plains, i^'ht it was. A narrow htrip of blue water, widening, as it proceeded, to about 2 M., lay between Viold loeky precipiees covered with wood, and ri.-ing almost directly from the water to a lieiKht of 5-CUU ft., huving bare tops a little faitlur back at ii Ktiil greater elevation." The IJay Indians keep canoes on tlio pond, and then* arc Keveral wigwuin.s on the sliores. (juuio and tish are abundant in thesu wooils and wafers, since it is but once in years that the all-^laying white man reaches th»' pond, and the prudent iudians kill only enougii for their own actual needs. Tlierc is a lofty island 20 M. long, on each side of which are the narrow and ravin«'-liko channels of the pond, with an enormous dcptli of water. The route to Ilnll'H i?Hy (m'o *'!igo 211) lends up tlie river from the N. E. corner of the pond for about 35 "M., paK-ing through four lakes. From the upjierniost pond the cunoo is carried for i M. and jait into the stream wbich empties into Hall's Bay. 3 M. W. of the inlet of this river into (irand Pond '.- the outUt of Junction Brook, a rajid stream which leans tu tli*- Ihimbc ;' iCi. r and Deer Toud in 8-10 M.,and is pas.^ublu by canoes, with frequent portage.-*. Near the N. end of Grand Pond, abo it the yenr 1770, occurred a terrible battle between the Micuiacs nnd the Red Tv'lians, which resulted in (he externdnntion of til.! lr*^cr nntion. Tlie Mi' i ich were a 'Catholic tribe from Nova Scotia, who liad moved "ver to NewfouiidlanU, and were displacing the aboriginal inhabitants, the lied Indians, or Ha'othics. Ir she preat buttle on Ornnd I'ond tlio utmo.'it defcr- niination and spirit wc-e shov" by tlie 15> uthirs, invaded here in their inuernio.^t ri'treats. But thc^ had only bows anu arrows, while the Micniacs were armed with guns, and at the riose of the battle not a man, woman, or child of the Bed Iudians of this section was left alive. This region is densely covered with forests of large trees (chiefly fir and spruce), alternating with '• the barrens,"- vast tmcts which are covered witli thick mo.«s. Gov Sir.lohn Harvey, after careful inspection, claims that the barrens are under- laid with luxuriant soil, while for the cultivation of grasses, oats, barley, and pota- toes there is " no country out of England or Egypl superior to it " The intense and protracted cold of the winter seasons will preciude agriculture on a large scale. These inland solitudes ure adorned, during the short hot summer, with many brilliant flowers. Among the.se are great numbers of wild rosci, violets, irises, pitcher-plants, heather, maiden-hair, and vividly co'ored llcliens ; vliile (says Sir U. Bonnyeastle) " in the tribe of lilies, Solomon in all his glory e.\( ceded not the beauty of those produced in this unheeded wilderness " ' l onl" "lule man who ever yet eros.• a Scotchman named Corinaek, who walked frou. Trinity B.ay to St. George's Bay, in 1H22. He was ac- compauied by a Micmac Indian, and tlie trip took several weeks. The maps of Newfoundland cover tliis vast unexplored region with conjectural mountains and hyi>othetieal lakes. Tlij British Adndralty chart ot Newfoundland (.Southern Por- tion) omits most of the,«e, but gives minute and valuable top( graphical outlines of tin? ; ikes and hills N. of the Bay of Despair, the Red-Indian I'ond, and River of Ex- ploits, and the region of the Grand Pond and Deer Pond, with their approaches. Cape St. George thrusts a hu it." The intense ■e on a large scale immer, with many «es, violets, irises, 18 ; while (says Sir y exceeded not the il" '-hite man who Scotchman named 1J^22. He was ac- cks. The maps of ral mountains and nd (Southern Por- aphical outlines of I, and River of Ex- eir approaches. he fcca, nnd 6 M. M. farther to the harbor of noble sthmus but 1 M. in the Province, e soil along the iiising grain nnd d here in large e bay, most of 1 I At the head of the bay is the mouth of the If umber River, the largest rivor in Newfoundland, In the liL«t IS M. of its cour.xe it is known as the Hinnhtr Smini/, and is 1-2 M. wide and r)()-»'i() fiithoms deep, with lofty and rugged hilh on either b! le. Oreiit (|iiantitie.s of ti nbcr arc found on t!ie«e ohores, ami the trout ami sal- mon fisheries are of considenible value. The river Hows into the head of the sound in a narrow and swift current, and is ascended by bojits to tlu" Deer I'ond. Occa- fional cabins and clearings are seen along the shores, inhabited by bold and hardy pioneers. 3 M above the head of the sound then? is a rapiil 1 M. long, up which boats an> drawn by lines. Hero " the scenery is highly striking and picturesque,— lorty clilTs of pure white liinestone rising abruptly out of the wemds to a height of 3 10(» ft , and being tiienisclves clothed with thick wood round their sides and over tlii'ir summits." Above the rapids the river traverses a valley 2 M. wid«', fllled with birch-groves and hemmed in by high hills. The stream is broad and shallow for (5 M. above the rapi Is, where another series of raj)ids is met, above which arc tho broad waters of * l)t>er Poiifl, 2-3 .M. wide and 15 M. long. Hero is tho undis- turbed h line of deer und smaller game, loons, gulls, and kingfishers. A few Micmuo Imlians still visit these solitudes, and their wigwams are seen on the 1 >w savannas of the shore. (See also pages 211 and 21H ) " Uevond the furest-i overed hills which surround it are lakes as beautiful, and larger than Lake (jeorge, the cold deir waters f)f which flow to tlu; bay under tho name of tho river Ilumber. It has a valley like Wyoming, and more roniantio scenci-y than the Susquehanna. The Bay of Islands is also u bay uf streams and in- lets, an endless labyrinth of cliffs and woods and waters, where the summer voyager would delight to wander, aud which ia worth a volume sparkling with pictures." Bonne Bay is 23 il. N. E. of the Bay of li^lands, and is a favorite resort of American and Provincial lishcrincn. Great quantities of herring are caught in this vicinity. Tlie mountains of tho coast-range clo.soiy ai>- proach the sea, forming a bold and striking prospect; and tho rivers which empty into the bay may be followed to the 'icinity of tlie Long I'ange. Tho coast to the N. N. W. for nearly 70 M is straight, with the slight indentations of tho Bay of St. Paul and Cow biy. Tho Bay of Intjorna- cfioix has comparatively low nnd level shores, .vith two excellent har- bors. On its N. point (Point Rich) is a lighthouse containing a white flasiiing-light wiiich is visible for 18 M.; and 2 M. E. i^ the fishing-station 0^ Port au Choix, whence considerable quantities of codfish and herring are exported. The Bay of St. John is dotted with islands, nnd receives the Iiivcr of Castors, flowing from an unknown point in the interior, and abounding in salmon. *' What a region for romantic excursions ! Yonder are wooded mountains with a sleepy atmosphere, and attractive vales, and a fine river, the Uiver Castor, flosving from a country almost unexplored ; and here are green isles spotting the sea, — tho islands of St. John. Behind them is an expanse of water, alive with fish and fowl, the extrenica of which are lost in the deep, untroubled wilderness. A month would not suffice to find out and enjoy its manifold and picturesque beauties, through which wind the deserted trails of the lied Indians, now extinct or banished." The Bay of St. John is separated by a narrow isthmus from St. Mar- garet's Bay (on the N.), on which are tho stations of iVe?<; Ferolle and Old Ferolle. Beyond the Bays of St. Genevieve and St. Barbe, with their few score of inhabitants, is Flower CovCy containing a small hamlet and an Episcopal church. The great s^aling-grounds of tho N. shore are next traversed; and the adjacent coast loses its mountainous character, and sinks into wide plains covered with grass and wild grain. 7"^ Ji; '■f :1 i I ■> .1 ■ = 1 ; 220 Route Gl. STRAIT OF BELLE ISLE. The Strait of Bdh Isle. The Strait of Belle Isle is now entr nd on the N. is the lofty and barren shore of Labrador (or, if it Lj night, the fixed light on Point Amour). As Green Island is passed, the Rtd Cliffs, on the Labrador shore, are seen at about 10 M. distance. The low limestone clilfs of the Xew- foundiasid shore ai*e now followed to the N. K., and at 30 M. beyond Green Island, Cape Norman is reached, with its revoiving light upheld on tiic bleak dreariness of the spray-swept hill. This cape is the most northerly point of Newfoundland. The Sacred Islands are 12 M. S. E. by E. from Cape Norman, and soon after passing them the hamlet of Quirpon is approached. This place is situated on Quirpon Island, 4 degrees N. of St. John's, and is devoted to the sealing business. It has an Episcopal clunnh and cemetery. !Multi- tadcs of seals are caught otl' this point, in the great current which sets from the remote N. into the Strait of iJello Isle. Hundreds of icebergs may sometimes be seen hence, moving in stately procession up the strait. In front of Quirpon are the cold higidands of Jaques-Cartier Island. Cape Baidd is the N. point of the island of Quirpon, and the most northerly point of the Province. 14 M. N. of Cupe nauld, and midway to the Lnbrndor shore, is Bcllc Tsle, in the entrance of the strait. It is M}^ M. lonj? and 3 M. broad, and ir utterly barri-n and unpvotttablf. On its S. jmint is a lonely lif^hthouso, 470 ft. a' )vo the sea, sustain- in;^ u fixid white light wliiih is vi.-ible for 28 M. During the den.^e and blinding? hnow-stornis that often sweep over the strait, a cannon is lired at regular intervals; and largo depo.'*its of provi.sionu are kept iiere for the u.-c ot shipwr* eked mariner^, lietween Dee. 15 and April 1 there is no light exhibited, for the.-e northern seas an; then deserted, save by u few daring seal-huut^-rs. There is but one ponit where the itiland eau bo approached, whicli is l>j M. from the lighthon>o, and here the stores are landed. There is not a tree or even u bush on the island, and coal is in.portid from (iuebec to warm the house of the keeper, — who, though visited but twice a year, i.-* happv and contented. The path from the landing is cut through thu uioss- covoreil ro* k, and leads up a long and stt'cp a-^cent. In tS.'j year 1527 "a Canon of St. Paul in I^onchm, which wos n great mathcmati- cia;t, ttjid a man indued with wealtli," sailed for tlie New World with two sliips, vhiih were litted out by King lleiu-y VIII. After they had gone to the westward for many (lays, and had passed " great Hands of Ice," they reaclieil "the majne laiHl, all wildernesso and mountaiiies and \\os, and no naturall ground but ail ino.sse, and no habitation nor no people in thc-fe parts."' They entered the Strait of Itelle Isle, and then " there aro.se a great and a niaruailous great storme, and mm h loul weatlier,'' during which the ship.s wen; sepuriitivl. xii;- captain of the Mnnj vf lluiljord wrote home «(tiicerning histonsort-ship: " 1 trust in AiniightieJesu to heaie good newes of her''; but no tidings ever came, and she was probably lost in the (itrait, with all on board. The i.-land-s of lielle Isle and Quirpon were called the IkIcr of Demons in the remote past, and the ancient maps represent them as covered with " devils raiii- jiant, with wings, horns, and tails," They were said to be fascinating but malicious, and Audre Tluvet exorcised them from a band «if stricken Indians by re|K'atiiig a )>.'irt of the Gospel of i^t. John. The mariners feared to land on these haunttd ehori'S, and *' when they passed this way, they heanl in the air, on the tops and about the masts, a great «'lnmor of men's voi(«'s, confused and inarticulate, fuch as jou may hear from the crowd at a fair or market-place ; whcreu|)on they well knew tliat the Isle of Demons was not fur off." The brave but superstitious Normans dared not land on the Labrador without the crucifix in hand, believing that tho.>-o gloomy shores were guarded by great and terrible grif&us. TiieMi quuiut legends mt STRAIT OF BELLE ISLE. Houte 61. 221 N. is tho lofty and ed light on Point 10 Labrador phoro, clilFs of the New- ) M. beyond Green ;ht upheld on tiic he most northerly Norman, and soon ed. This place is and is devoted to cemetery. Multi- current which sets iidreds of icebergs ssion up the stnit. rtier Island. Cttpc he most northerly 8 Bcllo Isle, in the utterly liiinTii nml ' )vc the si'ii, siistaiii- u ileiiM* and blindiiii^ I at ri'j^culiir iiit*rvals ; liipwnckfd iiiarincrx. '>o northern scub ai(! t one |Kinit whtTo the >, and hiMc the stoivs and roul is in>i)(irt(d li visitod hut twice a ut thruiigli tho U108S- IS n grcnt niathcmnti- orld with two Hhips, gone to tlie westward r»'ach«'d " tlie \\\n\ no turall ground but all entered the Strait of Mi Htoruie, and muk li iiptain of tile Mary of lniiglitieJe»iU toheaic probably lost in the of Demons in tho .'d with " devils rum- inating but malicious, iidiuuH by repeating a nd on thei-e huuntnl air, on tho tops and inarticulate, fuch as nipon they well knew uperstitious Noruians , believing that thoso ThoKc (luaiut legends undoubtedly had a good foundation. In July, 1873, the coasts of the Strait of Belle Isle wen! ravaged by bands of innnenfo wolves, who devoured several human beings and lu'Oeged the settlements for weeks. An tiicient MS. of 158ti relate.s a curious legend of Belle Isle. Among the com- )),iny on the tleet whi<'li wjis conducted througii the Straits to Queliee in 154'J, were tiie Lady Marguerite, niece of tlic Viceroy of New France, and her lover. Their eoiidui t Was such as to have scandalized the Hect, and when they reriched the Islo of Demons, Koherval, enraged at her slian>elcssne,, '.::en on the starWoard bow, and Caiiatla Bay is opened on the \Y. This gn>at bay i.^ 12 .M. lonj , and is entered through an intricate jMissage called tho Narrows, beyond which it widens into a safe and capacious basin. Iho shores are solitary and de- h-ertcd, and far inland are .seen the great hill-rangos called Tho Clouds. 7 M. to tho S. W. is the entrance to lI(io|iiiig Harbor, and 5 M. farther S. is Fonrcliette, 12 M. beyond which is Great Harbor Dvep, a long and narrow estuary with such a depth •if water that vessels cannot anchor in it. This is at the \V. entrance of White Bay, and is lt> M. from Cartridge I'oint, the E. entrance. AVliit*! Hay is a fine sheet of water 45 M. long and 10-15 M. wide. It is very deep and has no islands excei)t such as are close in sliore. Tho fisheries are car- ried on here to a considerable extent, and at Cat Cove, .lackson's Arm, Chouse Itidok, Wiseman's Cove, Seal Cove, and Lobster Harbor aro small .settlements of roident fishermen. Chouse Brook is situated amid noble scenery near the head of the bay, (jO M. by boat from La Scie. Oa the high'ands to tlie W. and S. of White Bay are the haunts of the deer, which aro usually entered from Halfs Bay or (ji reen Bay. 3 M. S. E. of Partridge Point is La Fletir de Lis harbor, so named from tlic simulation of the royal flower by a group of three hills near its liead. Running thence to the F., the entrances of Little Bay and Ming's Bight open on the starboard side, and on the port bow arc the St. Barbe, or Horse Islands. About 20 M. from La Fleur do Lis is La Scie, the last .settle nient on the French Shore, with its three resident families. A road leads S. 7 ^^ from this point to Shoe Cove, on the Bay of Xotre Dame (see page 211); and5M. E. of La Scie is * Cape St. John, the boundary of tho French Shore on the .Atlantic. I IniHgine the last hundred feet of Cotiway Peak, tiie very finest of the .N>w-Hampsliin' Uiountuin-top-., pricking above the waves, and you will see UiU littie outpost ai.d 222 Route Gl. CAPE ST. JOHN. breakwater of Cnpc 3t. John." (Noblf..) The Cape presents by far the j^mndost scenery on tlie E. coiust of NewfounUlaiiil,and is an uiilirokoii wall of black rock, 4-500 ft. high and 6 M. long, against whose immediate bate the deep sea sweeps. "Of the landes of LAnnAPOR and BACfALAOs, ltino West and NonTii-vrF-ST from EnGLANDE, AM) UEINGE I'ARTE OF THE FIKME LANDE OF THE WeST I.VUIES. " Many haue traualyed to search the coast of the lande of Laborador, as well to the iutente to knowe howe fane or whyther it reachethe, a.t also whether there luc any passage by sea throughe the same into the fc^ea of 8ur and the Islandes of Alanua, which are under the Eqiiiuoctiall line : thinkynge that the wayethythershulde greatly bee shortened by this vyage. The Spanyardes, as to wliof-e ryght tlie sayde islandes of spices perteyne, dyd fyr.^'t t^eeke to lyndc the same by this way. The I'oi tugales also hauyuge tlie trade ot spiies in theyr handes, dyd traiiaylo to fynde tlie i^ame: although hethcrto neyther anye su< he passage is founde or the eiide of that lande. In the yean; a thousande and fiue hundredth, CSaspar Cortesreales made a vyago thyther with two caniuelles ; but found not the streyght or passage he sought He greatly nmruayled to beholde the hougc quantitie of snowe and ise. For the Fea is there froscii e.xccdyngly. Thinhahitauntes are men of good corponiture, al- though tawny like the Indiess, and laborious. They paynte tlieyr bodyes, and weaiw braselettes and hoop«'s of .syluer and copper. Theyr a]>parel is made of the skyinies of marternes and dy vers other bcfistes, whiche they weare with the hearo inwarde in wynter, and outwarde in soonuiier. This apj)areU they gyrde to theyr bodyes witli gyrdels made of cotton or the synewes of lysshes and beastes. They eate fysslio Miore than any other thynge, and esjiecially siilmoiis, althoughc they liave toules and frute. They make tin-yr houses of timber, wliereof they liaue great i)lentie: and in the steade of tyles, couer them with the skynnes of fysshes and beastes. It Is said also that tiiere are grifes in this land : and that the beares and many other beastes and fi>nles are white. To this and the islandes aboute tlie same, the Uiifons are accustomed to resorte : as men of nature agn'caltle vnto them, and born vndcr tlie same altitude and temperature. The Norwajs also sailed tliyther with the pylotcaulcd .John 8eoluo: and the Eiiglysbe men with Sebastian Cabot. " The eoaste of the lande of Ilacealaos is a greate tra< t«', and the altitude thereof is xlriil deg -"es and a halfe. Sebastian Cabot was tlie fyrst that browglit uny kiioul- page of this land. For being in Englande in the dayes t)f Kyng lleiir> the Seuentli, he furny.slied two shippes at his owne charges or (as some .*;ay) at the kyiiges, wIkhu he iK'rsuaded that a i)assag(; might bee found to Cathay by the North Seas, and tli;it spices myght bee browght from tlieiise souer by that way, then liy the vyage tin," Portugales vse by the Sea of Sur. He went also to knowe what maner of lanclri tliose Indies were to inhabite. lie had withe hym IJOO men, and directtaldns wrytetii thus: ' The Newe land of Buccalaos Is a coulde region, who-e inhabytinintes are idolatours, and jiraye to the soone and nioono and dwers idoles. They are wliyti- people, and v< ly rustical. For they eate Hesslie and fysshe and all other thynges niwe. Sumtynu-s also they eate mans llesshe priuilye, so that theyr Caci(|ni have no knowlcage thereof The ap|)an-ll of both the men and women is made of beares skynnes, although they have sables and Diarternes, not greatly est<'emed because they are lyttle. Some of them go naked in pooiner^ and wean? apparcll only in wynt«'r Northwarde from the region of Baccalaos is the land of Labonidor, all full of inountaynes and great woodes, in whlclie are manye beares and wyide boares. Thinhabitauntes ari' idolatoures and warlike peopli', appan-lled as are they of Ba elide of that lunde. reales made a vyago sage he sought we and iso. For tlio good corporatiue, ul- •3 r bodyes, and weaiw niadeof the^kynnes the hearc inwarde in to theyr bodyes with I'S. They eate fyssho ighe they have fonles ' liaue great plentie: shes antl beahtes. It •ares and many other tlie same, the Hiitons lieni, and born vndir led thyther with the ian (.;abot. d the altitude thereof it browght liny knowl- ig Henrj the t washed and broken is visible along its almost interminahle shores. A gmuu headland, yellow, brown, and blaek, in its horrid nakedness, is ever in sight, one to the north of you, one to thesoutli H<'it«and theru upon them an? strliM'S and patehes of i)ale green, — mosses, lean gr)is«c«, and dwarf shrubbery. Ocoasirtnally, miles of preelplic front the «ea, in whirh the faney may roughly shai>fl all the struetures of human .vrt. — oastles, )>alaces, ami i(in)iles. Ini- n;;lne an entini side of Hnwdway piled up solidly, om-, two, three hundn-il feet in height, often more, and exposed to the eharge of the preat .Vtlantie rullers, rUKh- Ing into the ehurehes, halls, and spaeious buildings, thiunlering throtigh the d the lofty fnmts, twisting the very roridees with silvery spniy. f tiling biiign In nature This is the rojy tlmo of liabrador (.Jidy). The blue interior hills, and the stony vales that wind up among them from tho sea, have a s«nniner-llke and pleasant air. 1 And myself jicopling these regions, and dotting their hills, valleys, and wild vhori's with human iiahitatlons. .\ se<'ond thought — and a mournful one it is — tells me that no men toil in the fields away then- ; no women kt-^'P the lumse ofT there : there no cliildrca pliy by till? hnxiks or shout around the country school-lnmse ; no bees cfnne homo to the hive; no smoke ctirls from the fann-hou.s(> chlnuiey : no orchard blooms ; no bleating slieep tieck the mo\uitaln-sldes with whiteness, and no heifer lows in the twilight. Therti i.i nobody thvro ; thcru uovcr was but a miserable aud scat- M i »' w > At i III 224 Route G2. BATTLE HARBOR. tcrcd few, and there never will be. It is a great and terrible wilderness of a thou- f^uiul miles, and lone^oule to tlie very wild aninuils and birds. Left to tlie still vis- iutiou of the light from the sun, moon, and stars, and the auroral tires, it is oulj' fit to look upon and then be giv(;n over to its prin.eval solitawness. But for tiio living thinj?sof it;i waters, — the cod, the salmon, and the seal, — which bring tuou- Minds ol" adventurous fishermen and traders to itd bleak shores, Labrador would be as desolate as Greenland. " For a ffw days the woolly flocks of New England would thrive in Labrador. Luring these few days there are thousands of her fair daughters who would love to tend them. I prophesy the time is coming when the invalid and tourist from the States will be often found spending the brief but lovely summer here, uotwithstaud- i.ig its ruggeduess and desolation." (IIev. L. L. Noble.) " Wild aiv the waves whicli lash the reefs along St. George's bank ; Cold on the coast of Labrador the fog lies white and dank ; Through storm, and wave, and blinding ndst, stout are the hearts which man The tishing-smacks of Marblehead, the sea-boats of Cape Ann. " The cold north light and wintry sun glare on their icy forms, Bent grimly o'er their straining lines, or wrestling with the storms ; Free "s the winds they drive before, rough as the waves they roam, They laugh to scorn the slaver's threat against their rocky home." J GUN G. Whittieu. 63. The Atlantic Coast of Labrador, to the Moravian Mis- sions and Greenland. The mail-steamor Hercules leaves Battle llai'bor fortnightly during the sum- mer. Battle Harbor is a sheltered roadstead between the Battle Islands and Great Caribou Island, ^ M. long and quite narrow. It is a great resort for fi.sliermen, whose vessels crowd the harbor and are moored to the bold rocky shores. Small houses and stages occupy every point along the sides of the roarlstead, and the place is very lively during the fishing sea- son. On tlie W. is dreat Caribou Island, which is 9 M. around, and the steep-.'^hored S. E. Battle Island is the easternmost land of the Labrador coast. The water is of great depth in this vicinity, and is noted for it.< wonderful ground-swell, wliich sometimes sweeps into St. Lewis Sound in lines of immense waves during the calmest days of autumn, dashing high over the islets and ledges. An Episcopal clnuTh and cemetery were con- pecrated here by Bishop Field in 1850, and the nephew of Wordsworth (the poet) was for some years its rector. The first Esquimaux convert was bajjtized in ISru. Fox Harbor h .'3-4 hours' sail from Battle Island, across St. Lewis Sound, and is an Esquimaux village v.'ith igloes, kayaks, and other curious things pertaining to this uiuque people. There is a wharf, projecting into the narrow harbor (which resembles a mountain-lake); and the houses are clustered about a humble little Episcopal clnu'ch. " rarlboii Tnland fronts to the N. on the bay 5 -G M , T should think, and is a rupgi'd niountain-iii'o of dark gray rock, rounded in its upjier m.issos, and slashed along its shores with alirupt chasms. It drops sliort off, at its eastern extremity, into a niirrow gulf of di>ep water. This is Battle Ilnrbor. The billowy pile of igneous rfK'k. perhaps '2r)0 ft. high, lying between this quiet water and the broad Atlantic, is Battle Island, and the site of the town At this moment (July) the rocky isle, SANDWICH BAY. RoiUe 62. 225 derness of a thou- Loft to the still vis- oral fires, it is only mess. But for tlie ■ which bring tnou- Labrador would be hrive in Labrador, who would love to 1 tourist from the icre, uotwithsUiud- auk ; hearts which man n. ». storms ; )• roam, homo." )UN G. Whittier. ^loravian His- ly during the sum- Battle Islands and 3 a great resort for oored to the bold y point along the nc the fishnig sea- il. around, and the \ of the Labrador id is noted for its >{. Lewis Sound in inin, dashing high ometery were con- >\v of Wordsworth isquiniaux convert across St. Lewis i, and other curious arf, projecting into and the houses are should think, and is r nmssrs, and slashed ts eastern extremity, iMllowvpileofipnoous the broad Atlantie.is (July) the rocky isle, bombarded by the ocean, and flayed by the sword of the blast for months in the year, is a little paradise of beauty. There are fields of mossy carpet that sinks be- neiith the foot, with beds of such delicate flowers as one seldom sees I have never seen such fairy loveliness as I find here upon this bleak islet, where nature stenis to have been playing at Switzerland. Green and yellow mosses, ankle-deep and spotted with blood-red stjiins, carpet the crags and little vales and cradle-like hollows. Wonderful to behold 1 flowers pink and white, yellow, red, and blue, are countless as dew-drops, and breathe out upon the pure air their odor, so spirit-like. .... Little gorges and chasms, overhung with miniature precipices, wind gracefully from the summits down to meet the waves, and arc filled, where the sun can warm them, with all bloom and sweetness, a kind of wild greenhouse." Tlie course is laid from Battle Harbor N. across St. Lewis Sound, which is 4 M. wide and 10 M. deep (to Fly Island, beyond which is the St. Lewis River, which contains myriads of salmon). Passing the dark and rugged hills (500 ft. high) of Cape St. Lewis, the steamer soon reaches the small but secure haven of Spear Harbor, where a short stop is made. The next port is at St. Francis Harbor, which is on Granbj' Island, in the estuary of the deep and navigable Alexis River. An Episcopal church is located here. In this vicinity are several precipitous insulated rocks, rising from the deep sea. The harbor is i M. W. of Capo St. Francis, and is deep and well protected, being also a favorite resort for the fishing fleets. Cape St. Michael is next seen on the W., 11 AL above Cape St. Francis, with its mountainous promontory sheltering an island-studded bay. Be- yond the dark and rugged Square Island is the mail-port of Dead Island. Crossing now the mouth of St. ^Michael's Bay, and passing Cape Bluff (which maybe seen for 50 M. at sea), the steamer next stops between Venison Island and the gloomy cliffs beyond. Raiming next to the N., on the outside of a great archipelago, the highlands of Partridge Bay are slowly passed. The Seal Islands are 24 M. N. E. of Cape St. Michael, and 18 M. bej-ond is Spotted Island, distinguished by several white spots on its lofty dark cliff's. To the E. is the great Island of Ponds, near which is Batteau Har- bor, a mail-port at which a call is made. The next station is at Indian Tickle, which is a narrow roadstead between Indian Island and the high- lands of Mulgrave Land. Stopping next at S. E. Cove, the course is laid from thence to Indian Harbor, on the AV. side of Huntington Island. This island is 7 M. long, and shelters the entrance to Sandwich Bay (the Esqui- maux NetsbuctoTce), which is 6-9 M. wide and 54 M. deep, with 13-40 fatlioms of water. There are many picturesque islands in this bay, and on tlie N. shore arc the Jlealy ^Its., reaching an altitude of 1,482 ft. On the W. side are Eagle and West Rivers, filled with salmon; and East River runs into the bottom of tlie b.ay, coming frorri a large lake where immense numbers of salmon, trout, and pike may be found. 4 M. from the mouth of East River is the small settlement of Paradise. At the head of this groat bay are The Narrows, with Mount Nat and its bold foothills on the S. " On either side hills towered to the height of a thousand feet, wood(Hl w ith spruce from ba^e to siniiinit, and the^e twin escarpments abutted ranges lO* O 1' 226 Route G2. MORAVIAN MISSIONS. of bold bluffs vrhose shadows seemed almost to meet midway in the narrow channel that separated them. Tlirough this pnrand gloomy portal there was an unbroken Tista for miles, until the channel made an abrupt turn that hid the water front Tiew ; but the great gorge continued on beyond till it was lost in blue shadow." On the N. shore of tlie Narrows is the Hudson's Kay Conjpany 's post of Klgolette, occupying tlie site of nn older French trading-station. At the liead of the Narrows is Melville Lake, a great, inland sea, all along whose S. shore are the weird and won- derfiil volcanic peaks of tlio lofty Mealy Mountains. 120 M. S. W. of Uigolette, by this route, is the II. B. Company's post of Norwest, situated a little way up the N. \V. River, near great spruce forests. This is the cldef trading-post of the Moun- taineers, a tribe of the great Cree nation of the We.'it, and a tall, graceful, and spir. ited people. In 1840 they first opened communication witli the wliites. It was this tribe, which, is.suing from the interior liighlands in ri'sistless forays, nearly exter- minated the Esquimaux of the coast. 300 M. from Fort Norwest is Fort Nascopie, situated on the Heights of Land, far in tlie dark and solitary interior. In that vicin- ity are the Grantl Falls, which the voya^eurs claim are 1,000 ft. high, but Factor M'Lean says are '400 ft. high , — and below them the broad river flashes down through a canon 300 ft. deep, for over 80 M. 300 M. from Fort Nascopie are the shores of Ungava Bay. (The Esquimaux-Bay district is well described in an article by Charles Ilallock, Ilarper's Magazine, Vol. XXII.) The Moravians state that the Esquimaux are a proud and enterprising people, low in stature, with coarse features, small hands and feet, and black wiry hair. The men are expert in fishing, catching seals, and managing the light and graceful boat called the kayak, which outrides the rudest surges of the sea ; while the women are skilful in making garments from skins. Agriculture is impossible, because the country is covered with snow and ice for a great i)art f)f the year. They call them- selves Innuits ("men"), the term Esquimaux (meaning "eaters of raw flesh") being applied to them by the hostile tribes to the NV. On the 600 M. of the Atlantic coast of Labrador there are about 1,000 of those people, most of whom have been converted by the Monivians. They live about the missions in winter, and a8sem);io from the remotest points to celebrate the mysteries of tlie Pas.sion ^Veek in the churches. They were heathens and demon-worshipjiers until 1770, when the Mora- Tian Brethren occupied the coast under pernnssion of the British Crown. They were formerly much more numerous, but have been reduced by long wars with the Mountaineers of the interior and by the ravages of the small-pox. The practice of polygamy has ceased among the tribes, and their marriages arc celebrated by the Moravian ritual. The ntissionaries do considerable trading with the Indians, and keep magazines of provisions at their villages, from which the natives are freely fed during seasons of famine. At each station arc a church, a store, a mission-house, and shops and warm huts for the converted and c'vilizcd Esquimaux, who are fast learning the mechanic arts. The Moravian mission-ship makes a yearly visit to the Labrador station, replenishing the supplies and carrying away cargoes of furs. Hopedale is 300 M. N. W. of tlie Strait of Belle Isle, and is one of the chief Moravian missions on the Labrador coast. It was founded in 1782 by the en- Toys of the church, and has grown to be a centre of civilizing influences on this dreary coast. Its last statistics claim for it 35 houses, with 40 families and 248 per- sons ; 49 boats and 40 kayaks ; and a church containing 74 communicants and 85 baptized children. The mean annual temperature hero is 27° 82'. The church is a neat plain building, where the men and women occupy opposite sides, and Qcrmau hymns are sung to the accompaniment of the violin. Naln is about 80 M. N. W. of Hopedale, and has about 300 inhabitants, of whom 86 are communicants and 94 are baptized children. It was founded by three Mora- Tians in 1771, and occupies a beautiful position, facing the ocean from the bottom of a narrow haven. It is In 67° N. latitude (same latitude as the Hebrides), and the thermometer sometimes marks 75° in summer, while spirits freeze in the intense cold of winter. Okkak is about 120 M. N. \V. of Nain, towards Hudson Strait, and is u very successful mission which dates from 1770. The station otHtbron is still farther up the coast, and has about 300 inhabitants. Far away to tho N. E., across the broad openings of Davis Strait, is Cape Desolation, in Greenland, near the settlements of JuUanshaah. CHATEAU BAY. Route 63. 227 lie narrow channel a was an unbroken lid the water from t in blue Bhadow." K)8t of Klgolette, cad of the Narrows the weird and won- NV. of Kigolette, by a little way up the ;.po8t of the Rloun- \ graceful , and siilr- whitea. It was this fomys, nearly extor- 8t i8 Fort Nascopie, i>rior. In that vlcin- I ft. high, but Factor lashes down through ie are the shores of an article by Charles erprisinR people, low lack wiry hair. The ht and graceful boat while the women are lossible, because the ir. They call theui- ftters of raw flesh ") WO M. of the Atlantic of whom have been winter, and assenil;lo •assion Week in the 770, when the Mora- !h Crown. They were long waw with the ox. The practice of ire celebrated by the ith the Indians, and natives are freely fed tore, a mission-house, iiimaux, who are fast n a yearly visit to the cargoes of furs. and is one of the 5d in 1782 by the en- tig Influences on this . families and 248 per- ommunlcants and 80 82'. The church is a ite sides, and German inhabitants, of whom indcd by three Mora- ;can from the bottom he Hebrides), and the H?ze In the inten.>!eoold ^dson Strait, and is a f Hebron Is BtlU farther of Davis Strait, is )f Julianahaab. 4 63. The LaY>rador Coast of the Strait of Belle Isle. At Battle Harbor the Nortliern Coastal steamer connects with the Labrador mail-boat, which proceeds S. W. across the mouth of St. Charles Channel, and touches at Cape Charles, or St. Charles Harbor, entering be- tween Fishflake and Blackbill Islands. This harbor is deep and secure (though small), and is a favorite resort for tlie fishermen. As the steamer passes the Cape, the round hill of St. Charles may be seen about 1 M. inland, and is noticeable as the loftiest highland in this district. Niger Sound and the Camp Islands (250-300 ft. high) are next pas.sed, and a landing is made at Chimney Tickle, li M. S. W. of the Camp Islands is Torrent Point, beyond which the vessel passes Table Head, a very pic- turesque headland, well isolated, and with a level top and precipitous sides. It is 200 ft. high, and is chiefly composed of symmetrical columns of basalt. To the S. are the barren rocks of the I'eterel Isles and St. Peter's Isles, giving shelter to St. Peter's Bay. In the S. E. may be seen the dim lines of the distant coast of Belle Isle. On the N. is the bold promontory of Sandwich Head. The deep and narrow Chateau Bay now opens to the N. W., guarded by the cliffs of York Point (1.) and Chateau Point (on Castle Island, to the r.), and the steamer ascends its tranquil sheet. Within is the noble fiord of Temple Bay, 5 M. long, and lined by lofty highlands, approached through the Temple Pass. On the r. is the ridge of the High Beacon (959 ft.). Chateau is a small permanent village, with a church and a large area offish-stages. In the autumn and winter its inhabitants retire into the back country, for the sake of the fuel which is afforded by the distant forests. The port and harbor are named for the remarkable rocks at the entrance. There are fine trouting-streams up Temple Bay; and vast numi ers of curlews visit the islands in August. " This castle Is a most remarkab c pile of basaltic rock, rising in vertical columns from an insulated bed of granite. Its height from the level of the ocean is upward of 200 ft. It is composed of regular live-sided prisms, and on all sides the ground is FtrewD with single blocks and clusters that have become detached and fallen from their places [It] seemed like some grim fortress of the feudal ages, from whoso embrasures big-mouthed cannon were ready to belch forth flame and smoke. On the very verge of the parapet a cross stood out in bold relief In the gleaming UiOonlight, like a sentinel upon his watch-tower." (IIallock, describing Castle Island.) Chateau was formerly considered the key of the northern fisheries, and Its pos- ecssion was hotly contested by the English and French. At the time of the de- population of Acadia a number of its people fled hither and established a strong fortress. This work still remains, and consists of a bastioned star-fort in masonry, with gun-platforms, magazines, and block-hoaxes, surrounded by a deep fosse, be- yond which were earthworks and lines of stockades. It was abandoned in 1753, and is now overgrown with thickets. In 1763 a British garrison was located at Chateau, in order to protect the flshories, but the place was captured in 1778 by the American privateer Minerva, and 3 vessels and .i70,0(K) worth of property were carried away as prizes. In 1790 the post was again attacked by a French fleet. A long bombardment ensued between the frigates and the shore-batteries, and It was not until their ammunition was exhausted that the British troops retreated into the I !i( k country, after having burnt the village. In 1536 the French exploring fleet ULCicr the lommaud of Jaques Cartier assembled here. s^ II : H'" l«, I 1^ •F Si ' .: 228 liouteGS. STRAIT OF BELLE ISLE. After cmcr{);ing from Chateau Bay, the coiir.se is laiil nrouTKl York Point, and the Strait of Belle Isle is entered (with Belle Isle itself 18 M. \\.). The Laln-ador coast is now followed for about 25 M., with the stern front of its frownlnp clifls slightly indented by the insecure havens of Wreck, Barge, and Greenish Bays. Saddle Island Is now seen, with its two rounded hills, and the steamer glides into Red Bay, an excellent refuge in whose inner harbor vessels sometimes winter. Large forests are seen at the head of the water, and scattering lines of huts and stages show evidences of the occupation of the hardy northern fishermen. Starting once more on the voyage to the S. W., at 7 M. from Red Bay are seen the Little St. Modesto Islands, sheltering Black Bay, beyond which Cape Diable is passed, and Diable Bay (4 M. W. S. W. of Black Bay). 3 M. farther to the W. the steamer enters Louj) Bay, rounding high red cliffs, and touches at the fishing-establishment and hamlet of Lance-au-Loup (which views the Newfoundland coast from Point Ferolle to Cape Kov- man). Field-ice is sometimes seen off this shore in the month of June. Capt. Bayfield saw 200 icebergs in the strait in August. The course is now laid to the S. W. for 3-4 ^L, to round Point Amour, •which is at the narrowest part of the strait, and has a fixed light, 155 ft. high, and visible for 18 >L From the Red Clifi's, on the E. of Loup Bay, it is but 11 M. S. S. E. to the coast of Newfoundland. " The Battery, as sailors call it, is a wall of red sandstone, 2-3 M. in extent, with Iiorizontal lines extciidin); from one extreme to the other, and perpendicular fissures rc.«enil)ling embrasures and gateways. Swelling out witli grand proportions toward tlio sea, it has a most military and picturesque appearance. At one point of this liuge citadel of solitude there is the resemblance of a giant portal, with stupendous jtiers 200 ft. or more in elevation. They are much broken by the yearly assaults of tlie frost, and tlie eye darts up the ruddy ruins in surprise. If there was anything to defend, hero is a tJibraltar at hand, with comparatively small labor, whose guns could nearly cro.ss the strait, lieneath its precipitous cliffs the dibri^ slopes like a glacis to the bea<'li, with both smooth and broken surfaces, and all very hand- somely decorated with rank herbage The red sandstone shore is exceedingly picturesque. It has a right royal presence along the deep. Lofty semicircular promontories descend in regular terraces nearly down, then sweep out gracefully with an ample Inp to the margin. No art could produce Iwtter effect. The long terraced galleries are touched Avith a tender green, and the well-hollowed vales, now and then occurring, and a-scending to the distant horizon between ranks of rounded hills, look gn'en and pasture-like Among the very pretty and refreshing fea- tures of the coast are its brooks, seen occasionally falling over the rocks in white cascades. Harbors are passed now and then, with small fishing-Heets and dwell- iugs." (NODLE.) The steamer enters Forteau Bay, and runs across to the \V. shore, where are the white houses of a prosperous fishing-establishment, with an Epis- copal church and rector}'. About the village are scon large Esquimaux dogs, homely, powerful, and intelligent. This bsiy is the best in the strait, and i9 much frequented by the French fishermen, for whose convenience one of the Jersey companies has established a station here. On the same side of the harbor a fine cascade (100 ft. high) is seen pouring over the cliffs, and the fresh-water stream which empties at the head of the bay contains larj^c numbers of salmon. L 4:^ 'im BLANC SABLON. noutc 64. 229 f 7 M. beyond Fortenu, "Wood Island is pnspcd, nnd the Imrbor of lilnnc Snblon is entered. To the W. nre Bnulorc Buy and ie no ccrtaint.v wlioii or wlicre they will touch. Bouts may be hired at Ulanc Sablon to convey iMu^sengcrs to the W. Quebec to the Jfoisic River. The steamer Margaretta Stevenson leaves Quebec for the Moisic River every week, and may be hired to cail at intermediate ports. Tiie passage occupies 30-40 liours, and tiio cabin-fare is $20 (including uieulti). Tho round trip to Muiiiic and buck takes nearly a week. The N. sliore of the Oulf of St. Lawrence is a region which is unique in its dreari- ness and desolation. Tlic scenery is wild and gloomy, and the fhore is faced witli barren and stonn-beaten hills. The climate is rigorous in the extreme. Tliis dis- trict is divided into tliree i)art8, — the King's Posts, with 270 M. of coast, from Tort Neuf to Cape Cormorant ; the Seigniory of Mingan, from Cape Cormorant to tho Ilivcr Agwanus (135 .M.) ; and the Ijibmdor, extending from tho Agwanus to Blanc Sablon (15U M.). Along this 5<)l M. of cojist there arc (census of 1861) but 5,413 in- habitants, of whom 2,612 are French Canadians and 833 arc Indians. 1,754 are fish- ermen, and 1,038 hunters. In the SW M. there are but ;i80 houses, 67 Ji arpents of cultivated laud, and 12 horses. There are 3,841 Catholics, 570 Trotestunts, nnd 2 Jews. The wide Bradore Bay is near Blanc Sablon, to the W., and has been called " the most picturesque spot on the Labrador." In the back coun- try are seen the sharp peaks of tho Bradore Hills, rising from the wikler- ness(l,264 ft. high). The bay was formerly celebrated for its numerous humpbacked whales. Tho village is ou Point Jones, on tho E. side of tho bay. I :. trr^ I' ) 230 noute 64. ESQUIMAUX HAY. n Hi .1. Itrndom lltiy in nf (jrmt pxtont, nnd \h HtiiiMcil with rlnstcrH of JsU'tw, wlilrli niiiko hniiul (liviMhiiis of the riiiiiisti'ail. It was knnwii in iiiiciciit liiiii-xiiM Ln Ikiie. ilfs llettes, mill WM.s jrniiilnl \}\ Kranct! to tlm Sicnr !-<• (lanlnir di- ('onrtnnarM'lin (who, lU'ciinlinK to tradition, niarrioil a I'rincfMH of Kraiici>, tlic daiij^litcr of lli-nri IV.). Tliat iiolilrinaii »'- Hrciiilfd to Si(>iir KoucImt, wIio added tlu> title " dt- lial)rad(ir ' to liis naine ; and tlii-ri; Htill exist"* n (ini-iiolde faniii\ in Krance, licuririf? the nanu' of /''(»«f/i»> itr l.iilirr. On tIdN liiv was tin- town of ltr(i8. If tids Htat4!iut Kuro- ]M-an Hcttli-nHMit in America, nntedatinK hy over tliirty yearH tlie fonndation of Ht. An^u-Htinc, in Floridii. In liVJT) .liHpies ('artier met Freneli vefnelM feanliinKfor tiii-t jiort. Aliont the year IfKNl Hrest wa.s at tlie hei(?lit of itH prosiK-rity, and had 1,(X)() {lerniunent inliiiliitunts, 2i'<> Iiousoh, a ^ovii "or and an almoner, and Ktrun|{ foi tillca- tions. Aft«'r tin* «nlijiinatinljiiKni»is, it wan no longer dan^eronH to eHtahlinli nmall flslii-'){->lo line of islet.-*. TIm! port h r illed lionny by tlio American fi.'ilicnnen, who resort hero iv j^rcat numbers (luring the lierrin<^-,'peranco, nnd Is 8 M. in c ire "inference. 2 M. above Ksquimaux Islan . is a small trading-post, above wiiich is tho mouth of tho river, ai)ounrvenin(; course the \ViitaKheiHti<; Sound and Wapitafi^un Harlior are paHsed. A fringe of islands extends for 0-8 M. off this co!i.st, of which the outeruiust uro barren roeks, and tho large inner ones ure covered with moss-grown hill.-j. " Now, •»rotlipr», for the icebergs Of fnizcii Labrador, FlimthiK Npectrul hi the tnnnnshlno AloiiK tlie low black shore : Where like miow the k<>i> ■let's feathers On HrnilorN rocks ure hIu'iI, And the iioisy miirr are flyiiiR, Like black Hciids, overhead ; "Where in inl.it the rock is hiding, And the Nharp reef lurks below, And ttic white h(|UuII lurks in summer, And the uiituinn teinpestu blow ; Where, tliroiigh griiy and rolling vupor, From evening unto iiKirn, A thousund lioats ure hailing, llorn auftweriiig unto hum. " Iliirrnh \ for the Red Island, With the while cross on \i» crown ! Ilnrriih ! for Mcccntinn, And its inoiintains bare nnd brown I Where the Caribou's tail antlers O cr the dwarf-wood trccly toss. And the foot.stc)) of the MicKinack llus no sound ii|iun the moss. " Iliirrnh ! — hiirrnh ! — the west-wind Cuiiics freshening down the bay, The rising sails are filling, — Oive way, my lads, give wny I Leave the coward lun(isnicn clinging To the dull earth, like a weed, — The stars of heuvcn shall guide lis. The breath of lieuvcn shall speed I " John G. Wuittieks SouijoJ thv Fishermen. r J Cu THE MINCAN TRLANDR Rnutr r,/,. 231 From tbo quantity of wrwk ftimid ninoni; thooo iNlnndn, no donhf mnnv molnn- rlniv\nTks liavi' takm ipI.kc, wliidi have mvcr lin-n liciinl of , <'Vi'n if tlio uiitii tin- liarrt-n i "" tlifir ill<'(;al IhinIim-xh aliin^ iIm'm- sIioivh, wIh'i< inilliiiiiH of M'a Itird.H liiiv«! tlicir luccdinn iilacc-*. Tlu'y land rm the i>land.i and linak all the «'W, and wlu-n tlM' Idrds lay (iccli on<'M tlit'y jfatliiT'tlifni up, and ii>ad tlicii ImkiIm. 'I'liiTf ari' nl'ipiit 'JO vi^scls t-n^ajji-d in this rontraliand 'radi-, carry Inn tlif cun^ to Halifax, liiadM'c, and Hd-ton. " Tlu«fonn-n condiiiu' top thcr.and forma HtronK«'OMi- pany. Thi'y unifier no onr to interfere with tluir l)UHineHH, drivin^^ away tlio flxiier- iiien or any one elfi«- that afteni|>t.M to eolUM-t e^'^x nwir wliere tliey happen t«> \ta. Mi^ht makes ri^fh' witli them, if our information )h\ true. Tln-y liavc armH, and are Miiil i>y tho ii-h. rmen not to he serui-ilons in the uh* of tliem. As(rie vessel of '-if) tuns is said to Imvo «lean)d i: 200 by tliis ' I'ggiug ' bUHinuHH in n favorable scuaou." (Xautimt Magazine.) To tlio W. of Cnpc Wliittlo arc tho Wolf, Conroclio, Olomanoshocho, VV'asli-shecootni, tiinl .Musqtmrro IJivcrs, on the last three of which nio posts of tho Hudson's IWiy (Ndiipjiny. Next conic the Kcj^ashka liay and Kiver, the clifls of Mont Joll, the cod hanks oil' Nataslujuan I'oint, and several obscnnr rivers. The Mingan Islands are 29 in nnmhcr, and lie l)ct ween the moun- tainous shores of lower L.'ihiador and the island of Antirofti. Thoy ahoinid in gcolojric'il phenomena, ancient bciiches, dciinded rocks, etc., and are of very pictiircscjnc ci.nfours. About their shores of I imcstoMO are thick for of s])riice, birch, and |)oplar; seals and codddi abound in tho adjacent waters; and wild fowl are very plentiful in the i opor sea- son. Large Island is 11 M. in circuniference; and Mingan, (^luirrv, Kiajiisca, Ksquimanx, and Charles Islands are 2-;i M. in length. Tliey front the Labrador coast for a distance of 45 M. There are about ooo inhabitants near the islands, most of whon^ arc In- dians ajid French A '-adians, for whose spiritinil guidance the Oblate rathers have established a mission. The chief village is at Mimjnn llmbor, on the mainland, hack of Harbor I.-Iand; and here is a post of the Hudson's Hay (,'ompany. The harlxn i-. commodious and easy of accc'^s, an2 there was not a Binglc estal)lisliment on tlie coast, between tlie Hay of Mingan and the .Seven Islcfl, and not a quintal of codfish was taken, except on tho banks of .Mingan and at tho Kiver St. John, wiiich the American fishermen have fn'inontcd for many years. Now, thcro its not u livi r, u cove, a creek, \vhii:li io not ucxupitd, and every ^car thero m 232 Routed THE MINGAN ISLANDS. nrp tnkrn HO-SA/'IH) i|uiiitnlH of ro.l, witliout rountliiK oHht fl.xli.'' " Tlio onrn (loM(ilut<> cMtii.HtM ot Miii^uii Imvc at'(|iiii'<>i|, l)y iiiiiiii}{riitii)ii, ii viunrouM, moral, ainl truly ('nthdllc |Mi|iiilati(>ii. Tliu iiiuii art' tjciicrully btroiii; iiud mbust, uuU ubuvc all they nrc hiinly m-uuioii.'' On the W. cdf^c of the Minj»nn Islamls nro tlio Permfjiicts, a cluster of low rocks wliero great nuinitors of fjufliiis iuirrow iind rciir their youuj;. On these l^ll•ts tho steain>liiii.s C'lijde ami Nurtli Jiiilun were wrecked (in 18r)7 and 18(51). A beach of white sniul extends \V. from I.on;; Point to the St. John Jiiver, a distance of 18-20 M. The river is marked by the tall adjacent peak of Mount St. John (1,41G ft. hi<:;h); and furnishes very good lishing (see (J. C. Scorr's " Fisliinj; in American Waters "). The Miinilnii liirrr Is 34 M. U'. of the St. John, and at IJ M. from its mouth ic makes a Kraiiil Ifap ovit a clitT 113 ft. hi^li, foruiiii^ the most maKiiiticout catariu-t on till! N. ."horc. The coast Iiiiliinis still rcpuat the h>}{('iiil of tlu; iuvasion of thiii country l)y the Miemacs (from Aiin);int? songs of de- fiance. A Montaijjnai" chief rushed forward to take hhn, when the bold Micmao 8ei7«d his opponent and l<-aped with him into the foaming waters. They wen; both borne over the ])recipicc, and the falls have ever te(iuently reverted to the Hudson's Hay Com- pany, and is visited by 3-400 Nasqiiapec Indians. Since the departure of the H. B. Company, the post itself has lo.st its importance, but all ves- sels trading on the N. shore are now obliged to get their clearances here. The Montaignais Indians had a brond trail ruiuiing thence up a vast and desolate valley to Lake St. John, 300 M. S. W., and the Moisic River was part of the canoe-route to Hudson's .'^ay. The Montaignais were here secure from the attacks of the dreaded i.Iohawks on the one side, and tho maritime Esquimaux on tho other, and here they received tho Jesuit mis- sionarles. I ^^ THE SEVEN ISLANDS. Itoutc G.}. 233 ^^ Blenheim, Uaniillics, and .'iiilcna.'l*, of the St. iJiwrente." Tl «< i.* nii-lo H - IK'dition. The Frev.Jii vp* v' > wtuch i ; The ncciirry of the Bny of Seven THlnnda Is famed for Hk wild henuty nnd weird dcKolution. Tlie luiy Im 7 M. lon^',und Ih hlieltered l)y tlie inlnnrls nnd ii uinuntalnouH pronioiitorv on tlie W, The ininiediiite nhore in a tine tinndy heach. liac k of wiiich lire Iroad lowlands, nnd " the two panillel rnnnes of mountiins, which add m niurh to the lieiiuty of the dintant neiiery of this bay, loolc like Iuiro and Impenetralilo Imrriers lielwren tlie eonst and the howling wild ft above the H'n, and eomuiandliiK a broad and ma};nifieent view. There are about iiW iiihab- iuints here, a larRe proportion of whom are Indians who arc enKH(;>'d in the fur- tnide. Oil Carrouaet Island is a fixed liglit, 1*J& ft. above the Bca, which is visiblo for 20 M. From Carrousel Island to tho St. Margnrct River it is 8 M. ; to tlie Cuwco Islands, 24; to Sproulo Toint, 2H; and still farther W. nro tho Tcntocost Hiver and Kiiglish Point, oiT which are the Egg Islands, bear- ing a revolving white light, which warns ofV mariners from one of the most dangerous points on the coast. Tn the spring of 1711 the Hrit'sh ftovernment sent nf^inst Quebec 15 men-of-wnr, under Adudral Sir llovendcn v'alker, and 40 transports containing 5,000 veteran foiJiers. During a ternble A^lgu^t storm, while they were ascending tho Uulf of J(t. Lawrence, the fleet drove jiowp . u the Kjrg Islands. The frigates were saved irom the sliojds, but 8 tran^,. ••c^j .\vned, and their bodies lying along the shore. They rei'ognized among them t«Ci whole coin]ianie8 of the Queen's (iuards, dij*- tingulshed by their red coats, and several S<'otcli fandlies, intended as settlers in Canada," among thcni seven women, all clasping each other's hands. The regi- ments of Kainc, Windrcsse, .Seymour, and Clayton were nearly annihilated in this wreck. " A'lie Freneli colony could not but recognize a Providence which watched singularly over its preservation, and which, not sitislled with rescuing it from the greatest danger it had yet run, had enriciied It with the spoils of un enemy w hoin it had not had the pains to conquer ; heDce they rendered ilim most heart- felt thanks." (Charlevoix.) Beyond the hamlet on Caribou Point nnd the deep bight of Trinity Bay U Point de Monts (or, as some say, Point atix Demom), 280 M. from Que- bec. There is n powerful fixed light on this promontory. 8 M. beyond is Goflbmt, with its fur-trading post; nnd 9 M. farther W. is Cape St. Nicho- las. 18 M. from the cape is Manicoungan Point, 20 M. W. of which is tho great Indian trading-post at the Bersimif Jiiver, where 700 Indians liavo their headqtuirters; thence to Cape Colombier it is 11^ M.; and to tho church nnd fort nt Port Neuf it is 12 M. Point Millo Vaches is opposite Biquette, on the S. shore of the St. Lawrence, and is near the SauU de Mouton, a fall of 80 ft. There arc several settlements of French Catholic farmers alone the shore. At Les Escoumaina there are 500 inhabitants and considerable quantities of grain and lumber are shipped. Tho const is of granite, steep and bold, and runs S. W. 16 M. to PttitQ JBergeronne, •whence it is 6i M. to the mouth of the Sagucnay IJiver. 234 Jioutc 05. ANTICOSTI. ..n 65^ AnticoBtl Tho Island of Anticostl lies in the mouth of the St. Lfiwrcnco River, nn«l is 118 M. lonjif nnd 31 M. wide. In 1871 it had about 80 inhabitants, in charge of tlic government lights and stations, and also 60 acres of clearcil land nnd 3 horses, i'ox River is 60 M. distant; tho Mingan Islands, 30 M. ; and Quebec, about 450 M. The island has lately been tho scene of tho operations of tho Anticosti Land Coinpar.y, which designed to found hero n new Prince Kdward Island, covering these peat-plains with prosperous farms. The enterprise has as yet met with but a limited success. Anticosti has some woodlands, but is for tho most part covered with black peaty bogs and ponds, with broad lagoons near the sea. The bogs resemble those of Ireland, and the forests arc composed of low and stunted trees. The shores arc lined with great piles of driftwood nnd the frag- ments of wrecks. There are many be:\rs, otters, foxes, and martens; also partridges, geese, brant, teal, and all manner of aquatic fowl. Tho months of July and August arc rendered miserable by the presence of immense swarms of black flies and mosquitoes, bred in the swamps nnd bogs. Largo whales are seen off these shores, and the early codfish are also fmind here. Fine limestone and marble occur in several places; and nitirl ami peat are found in vast quantities. There are lighthouses nt S. \Y. Point, S. Point (and a fog- whistle), W. Point (and an alarm-gun), and Heath's Point. The government has established supply-huts along the shores since the terrible wreck of tho Granicus, on tho S. E. point, when the crew reached the shore, but could find nothing to eat, and were obliged to devour each other. None were saved. In 1()90 ono of Fir William Piiipps's troop-ships was wrecked on Anticont!, durinj; the rotroat from Quebec, timl but 5 of its people survived tho winter on tlic if ( River, nnil bitnnts, in of cleared uls, 30 M.; eno of tho found hero :)rosperou3 ■s. ercd witli The bogs id stunted 1 tho fnig- tens; also ho months immense and bops, also fuund mud and >V. Point, d Heath's he shores 1 tho crew to devour 5stl, durini; the ifilanil. ton, 900 M. ifety. Tho >t wan soon irrf, 60, tho in human tho slowest aimed and mbs HP tho Bfer, strain- and forest, f life, until aBumON.) ft).' PROVI^X^E OF QUEBEC. Quebec is bounded on the W. by tho Province of Ontario, on the N. by the wilderness towards Hudson's Bay, on the K. by Maine, Labrador, and the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and on the S. by New Lrunswick, New Kng- land, and New York. It covers 210,020 square miles, and its scenery is highly diversified and often mountainous, contrasting strongly with the innucnse prairies of Ontario. The stately river St. Lawrence traverses tho Province from S. W. to N. K., and receives as tributaries the large rivers Ottawa, Richelieu, St. Maurice, and Saguenaj'. The Kastern Townships arc famed for their fine liighland scenery, amid which arc beautiful lakes and glens. The Province of Quebec has 1,191,510 inhabitants (census of 1871), tho vast majority of whom are of French descent and language. 1,019,850 of the people arc Roman Cathjlics, and the laws of education arc modified to suit tho system of parish-schools. The Dominion of Canada is ruled by a Governor-General (ap|)ointed by the British soveroign) and Privy Council, and a Parliament consisting of 81 senators (24 each from Ontario and Quebec, 12 each from Nova Scotia and New Brunswick, and 9 from P. E. Island, Manitoba, and British Columbia) and 207 members of tho House of Commons. There is one member for each 17,000 souls, or 88 for Ontario, 65 for Quebec, 21 for Nova Scotia, 10 for New Brunswick, 6 each for Prince Kdward Island and British Columbia, and 5 for Manitoba. In 1872 the debt of the Dominion was $123,400,179, most of which represents internal improvements. There are 30,144 Canadian militiamen, with a military school at Kingston; and tho navy consists of 8 armed screw-steamers (on the lakes and tho GulO. In 1600 Canada had 240,000 inhabitants; in 1826, 581,920; in 1851,1,842,205; and in 1S71, 3,057,887, —a fifteon-fold increase in 70 years. Between 1842 and 1872, 831,108 emigrants from Great Britain entered Canada ; and in the same period, 4,338,080 persons, from the same kingdom, emigrated to the United States. In 1871 and 1872 the exports of Canada amounted to $ 166,813,281, and her imports to $ 194,050,594. Her chief trade is with Great Britain and the United States, and the main exports are breadRtufTs and tim- ber. In 1872 tho Dominion had 2,928 M. of railways, which had cost $ 163,553,000; and there were then 3,943 post-ofllces. The first European explorer who visited this country was Jaques Car- \l i m i '\ n ti 23G TROVINCE OF QUEnEC. tier, who landed at Gaspo in 1534, and ascended the St. Lawrence to the site of Mortreal durhig the following year. Seventeen years later the ill-fato(l Roberval founded an ephemeral colony near Quebec, and thereafter for over half t century Canada was unvisited. In 1003 Chainplain ascended to the site of Montreal, and Quebec and Montreal were soon founded; while the labors of explorations, missions, and fightinf^ the Irocjuois were carricil on without cessation. In 1029 Canada was taken l)y an Kn<:;lish Heet under Sir David Kirke, but it was restorcil to Trance in 1C3'2. The Company of the Hundred Associates was founded by Cardinal Richelieu in 1027, tn erect settlements in La Nouvelle France, but the darinj; and merciless in- cursions of the Iro(juois Indians prevented the growth of the colonies, and in 1GG3 the company was dissolved. Finally, after they had exterminated the unfortunate Huron nation, the Inxpiois destroyed a part of Mon- treal and many of its people (1089). The long and bitter wars between Canada and the Anglo-American colonies had now commenced, and New York and New Ijigland were ravaged by the French troops anil their allied Indians. Naval expeditions were sent from Hoston against Quebec in 1690 ond l*'ll, but they both ended disastrously. Montreal and its environs were several times assailed by the forces of New York, but most of the fighting was done on the line of Lake Chanifilain and in the Maritime Trovinccs. At last t'lese outposts fell, and powerful British armies entered Canada on the K. ".ad W. In 1759 Wolfe's army captured Quebec, after a jtitched l)attle on the Plains of Abraham; and in the following year Montreal was occui^'Cf' by Gen. Amherst, with 17,000 men. The French trooj wore sent home; and in 1703, by the Treaty of i'aris, France ceuebec)and the ,\hiri- timo Provinces were consolidated into the Dominion of ('anai)A. Since that day the councils of the Imperial Government have manifested u de- sire to give independence to the new State; and the Dominion, endowed with autonomic powers, has made rapid advances, buihlinf; great railways, bridges, and canals, and forwarding internal improvements. Meantime Ontario has gaine)roki>ii glaiict'S of lu>r r.tdiaiit inajuHtv , as mirrored uii their hurface, and scarcely dreams as y^•t of thu gloriouM fulutu awaitiug her iu tUu Ulyiiipuri uf nutiunii.'' (Earl or DUFFERiN) "The beggared nohlo of tho early time l)ooamo a sturdy oouutry gentleman; |M)or, hut not wret<'lu;d ; ignor.iiit of hooks, except possihly a few Hcraps of runty Latin picked up iu a Jesuit seliool ; hardy as the liardiest woodsmau, yet never fur- getting Ills (piality ^tX {ifHlilkomitif : scrupulously wearing its budge, tho swoni, and copying as well as he could the fashions of the court, which glowed on his vision inToss the sea in all the effulgence of Vc-rsailles, aud hcamed with retlect^Ml ray from tile chateau of Quebec, lie was at home among his tenants, at home among thu Indians, and never more at home than when, a gnu in his hanil and a crucitix on his lireast, he took the war-path with a crew of painted savages and Krt'uchmen almost as wild, and pounced like n lynx from the forest on some lonely farm or out- l>ing hamlet of New England. Ilow New Kngland hated him, h-t her records tell. The r<>ddest hlood-stn aks on hvr old aiuials murk tho track of tbo t'auudiuu gfiiltl- liomme.'^ (1'ahkman " To ft traveller from tho Old World, Canada East may appear like a new coun- try, aud Us Inhahitauts like colonists ; hut to me, coming from New KigJaud it app<>ared as old as Normamly itself, and realiKeil nuich that I bad heard of Miiropo and the Middle Ages. Even the names of humble Canadian villages ulVected me as if they had >N!eu tlu>se of thu renowned cities of antii|uity. To lie tuld by u h.iliitant, when I asked the name of a village in sight, that It is .S7. Fenolr or .SV. Annf, the (iiianh'nn Ai>i;rt or tho llntif Jom/i/i'x ; or of a moiuitain, that it was lic'aniif or St. litjU'-intki- ! As hchju as you leavo the Stutes, the.-e saintly uam«>s begin. St. John is the llrst town you stop at, and thenceforward (he numes of the mountains ai«/-//ii»/(»»iy, etc., ete., — as if it needed only a littlu foreign accent, a few more licjuiils and vowels pendiancu in tho langu;ige, to make us Iwate our ideals at once, 1 hegan to dretun of I'rovt'Uci) and tho Troubadours, and of places and things which have no cxibtenee on tho earth. They veiled tho Indian and the iirlmitive (orest, and tlie wojkIs toward Hud- Hun's Day were only as tho forests of Irunco and (icrmany. I could nut at unco bi-in'{ myself to beiievo that thu iiihabltu-.its who pronounced dally thosu bouutitul aud, tu nie, signiilcant names leud un pruiuic livuii ua wu of Now Eiigbud. hi 1 5" i ll > . ■ !. ] >-i I 238 Itoute 66. nCTOU TO QUEBEC. " One of th(? tributaries of the St. Anne is named Zi Rividre de la Rose, and fur- ther east are La Riviere de In Blondelle and La Riviere de la Fr'ponne. Tht'ir very riviire meanders more than our river [It is] a more western and wilder Arca- dia, methinks, than the world has ever seen ; for the Greeks, with all their wood and river Kods, were not so qualified to name the natural features of a coiuitrj' as the a>KX\stors of these French Canadians ; and if any people had a right to substi- tute their own for the Indian names, it was they. They have preceded the pioneer on our own frontiers, and named the prairie for us." (Tuobeau.) On the que:'tion as to whether the Canadians speak good French, Pothcrie says that " they had no dialect, which, Indeed, is generally lost in a colony." Charle- voix observed (about 1720) : " The French language is nowhero spoken with greater purity, there being no accent perceptible." Bougainville adds: "They do not know how to write, but they speak with case and with an accent as good as the Parisian." Prof. Silliman says that they speak as good French as the common Americans speak English. From the voluminous work of M. Rameau, entitled La France aux Colonies — Acadiens et Canndiens (Paris, 1859), we learn that in the year 1920 the valleys of the Saguenay, Ottawa, and Lower St. Lawrence shall be occupied by a Franco- Canadian nation of 6,000,000 souls ; that the mournful vices, " impoverishment of intelligence, and corruption of manners," which the Anglo-American race in the United States has sulTered, shall bo opposed and checked by the fecund genius of the French race, and the " scientiiic and artistic aptitudes of the Canadians," emanathig continent-enlightening radiance from the walls of the Laval University ; that the dissolute barbarism of the Americans shall be ameliorated by the sweet intluenees of the " Oreco-Latin idea ' of the F'ranco-Canadiaus ; and that that agricultural and intellectual people, " the general and esteutial principle of whose material and intellectual power is in their religious faitli and in the simplicity of their m.anners," shall profit by the sad experience of Old France, — and under the conservative influ- ences of a social aristocracy shall erect a New France, to be forever illustrious in its culture " de Vesprit, la modeslie des maiirs, la liberti et la religion," < 66. Fictou to Quebec. — The Coasts of Gaspe and the Lower St. Lawrence. This voyage is full of interest to the lover of fine scenery, and leads through some of the most attractive parts of the Provinces. The vessels pass the lofty highlands of Nova Scotia, the Acadian districts on the sandy shores of New Brunswick, the stately mountains about the Bay of Chaleur, and the frowning ridges of Gaspe. Then comes the ascent of the majestic St. Lawrence, with its white Freach villages, its Alpine shores, and romantic history, terminated by the quaint mediaeval towers of Quebec, " the Walled City of the North." The steamers are large and comfortable, and are quite steady in ordinary seasons. The cabin-tables are well supplied, and the attendance is good. There is but little danger Irom sea-sickness, except in very breezy weather (s.e also page 3). This route is served by the vessels of the Quebec and Gulf Po-. '" ^l£0»r ship Com- pany, the Secret and the Miramichi. The Georgia formerly phtd Kt^wH'! Pictou, Charlottetown, Shediac, and Quebec, but she was wrecked in i :»■• const of 7 Jo'ie in January, 1875. The times of departure are liable to variatious . x .hfc ih'i.t ic^vy cargoes are to be landed or shipped at any of the por*". The follow ,!g: '.iuf-iabi. • 's that of the Q. & G. P. S. S. Co. for 1874 ; further particulars, ar ' fie i^tails of changes (if there should beany) may be obtained from the cum^ ..y' .-gents. Pa8.xengers leave Halifax by railway Mond.ay morning, and conne> i with the steamship, which leaves Pictou at 7 A. M. on Tuesday. By leaving T'' . ohn on the Tuesday-morning train, the boat is met at Shediac, which she e»i(' r it 5 P. m. on Tuesday, leaving at 7 P. M. She reaches Chatham at a.m. on ^\Vaue.eday, and leaves at 7 A. M. ; Newcastle at 7.30 A. K., Wednt'sday, leaving at 8 a. m. ; Dalhousio at 1 A. M., Thursd.ay, leaving at 4 A. M. ; Paspebiac at 9 a. m., Thursday, leaving at 10 A. M. ; Perc6 at 4 p. m., Thursday, leaving at 4.30 '. M. ; Gasp6 at 7 p. m., Thurs- day, leaving at 8 p. M. ; Father Point at 7 P.M., Friday, leaving at 8 p.m.; and ar- rives at Quebec at 10 a. m., ou Saturday. aft << ose, and far- Their very wilder Arca- l their wood country as lit to substi- tlie pioneer otheric says IT." ("harfc- witli greater 'licy do not good as the ^he common e Colonies — valleys of y a Franco- rishnicnt of race in the ;eniu8 of tlio ' emanating y ; that the t influences agricultural naterial and r manners," vative influ- trious in its e Lower rough some y highlands inswick, the aspe. Then villages, its »1 towers of •omfortable, ipplied, and cept in very "Ship Com- (H';; Pictou, of 7 Jc'~ie in ih'it i-v»\y ,l\n--\ iiV\:-: 's i litails of ' .fgents. t with the r. .'ohn on : ii 5 p. M. lesday, and ; Dalhousio , leaving at . M., Thurs- I. ; and ur- CARLETON. Itoiite 66. 239 Quebec 'o Pictou. — The steamship leaves Quebec at 2 v. m., on Tuesday ; Father Point, 6 A.M., Wednesday; Oasp6, 4 a.m., Thursday; Perce, 8 A.M., Thursday? Paspebiac, 3 p. m., Thursday; Dalhousie, 9 p. m., Thursday ; Chatham, 4 p.m., Fri- day ; Newcastle, 6 P.M., Friday ; Shediac, 3 a.m., Saturday (morning tniin to St. John) ; and arrives at Pictou at 1 p. m., Saturday, connecting with the afternoon train to Halifax. FareSt — (Meals are included in the lst-cla.ss fares, hut the state-rooms are extra. The 2d-cia.s3 fares are without meals.) Halifax to Shediac, !$ 5 or -S 3.u0 ; to Chat- ham or Nc^vcastle, ^ 8.50 or !$ 4.50 ; to Dalhousie, % 11.50 or ^G ; to Paspebiac, S 12.50 or S 6.50 ; to Perce or Gasp^, $ 12 or § 7 ; to Father Point, iif; 17 or $ 8 ; to Quebec, §17.50 or .5 850. Qufhec to Halifax. — Quebec to Father Point, .$ 4 or .«! 2 ; to Gasp^, $ 10 or S 4 ; to Perce, § 11 or $ 4.25 ; to Paf pebiac, J$ 13 or 1? 5 ; to Dalhou.'^ie, § 14 or $ 5.50 ; to Cliatham or Newcastle, .S 14 or §5 ; to Shediac, 815 or .^ 7 ; (to St. John by rail, § 16 or !» 8) ; to Pictou, % 16 or !$ 7.50 ; to Halifax, * 17.50 or » 8.50. Dlstancefsi. — Pictou to Shediac^ 120 M. ; to Cliatham, 225; Newcastle, 230; D.alhousic,423; Paspebiac, 478; Perc6, 649; Gasp^, 578 ; Father Point, 846 ; Que- bec, 1,028. Halifax to Pictou, see Route 31. St. John to Shediac, see Route 14. After leaving Pictou Harbor, the steamship passes out between Caribou Island and Pictou Island (see also page 175), and enters the Northumber- land Strait. On the S. ure the dark highlands of Pictou County, among whose glens are scattered settlements jf Scottish people. 10-12 Jil. N. arc the low hills of Prince Kdward Island. The deep bight of Tatamagoucho Bay (see page 81) is passed about 35 M. W. of Pictou, and the blue and monotonous line of the Cobequid Mts. may be seen in the S., in very clear ^_,, weather. Beyond Bale Verto the steamer passes through tlio narrow part of the Strait between Cape Traverse and Cape Tormentine, and the low red shores of Prince P^dward Island are seen on the r. The course is next laid along the level Westmoreland coast (see page 59), and the har- bor of Shediac is entered. The general aspect of the N. Shore of New Brunswick is described in Route 15 (page 60). It is to be remembered, liovrever,, that tho Gulf- Ports steamships do not stop at Richibucto, Bathurst, r.{ Campbcllton. Having, then, described the coast from Shediac to Dalhousie in Route 15, the present route will follow the shores of the great Gaspesian peninsula. As the steamship leaves tho estuary of the Restigouche, the red sand- stone cliffs of Mafiuacha Point are passed, on the 1., beyond which is the broad l^iroon of Carlcton Road. The beautiful peak of * Tracadiegash is now approached, and after passing the light!iouse on Tracadiegash Point, the white village of Carletou is seen on the Quebec shore. This place has about 800 inhabitants and a convent, and is snugly situated under tho lee of the mountains, near a bay which is secure during gales from the N. and E. Immense scliools of herring visit these shores during tiie springtim.e, at the spawning season, and are caught, to be used as food and for fertilizing the ground. The village is enterprising and active, and is inhabited chietly by Acadian?. The steamer stops off the port if there are any passengers or freight to be landed. V 240 Route 66. PASPEBIA(?. 9 ' i\ !>''■ " Carlcton i.s a pretty town, to which a littln steamer sometimes runs from Dal- houHic, rendering the sahiion streams in tlie vicinity quite accessible. When tlio pun Biiines, its wliite cottaj^es, nesthnj? at tlic foot of the majestic Tracadiegasli Mountain, glisten like snow-llakcs apaiiist the somhrc Imckpround, and gleam out in lovely contrast with the clouds that cap the summit of this outpost sentinel of the Alleghany range." (Uallock.) The steamer now passes out upon "the unduhiting and voluptuous Bay of Chaleur, full of long folds, of languishing contours, Avhlch the wind caresses with fan-like breath, and whose softened shores receive the flood- ing of the waves without a munuur." On the N. is Cascapediac Bay, on ■whose shores arc the Aradian and Scottisii hamlets of Maria and New Richmond, devoted to farming and tluj fisheries. The rugged peaks of the Tracadiegasli range are seen in fine retrospective views. Kew Carlisle is near the mouth of tlie Grand Bonaventure River, and is the capital of Bonaventure County. It has 400 inhabitants, and is en- gaged in the fisheries, having also a few summer visitors. The churches and court-house occupy a ccj'ispicuous position on the high bank which overlooks the bay. This town was founded in 1785 by American Loyal- ists, who received from the government one year's provisions, lands, seeds, and farming-implements. !? 100,000 was expended in establishing this settlement and Douglastown. Faspebiao {Clarke's Hotel) is a village of 250 inhabitants, situated on the X. shore of the Bay of Chaleur, 440 M. from Quebec. Its harbor is formed by a fine beach of sand 3 M. long, curving to tlie S., and forming a natural breakwater against the sea during easterly gaits. The church und houses of the village arc built above the red cUfis of the shore, and present the neat and orderly appearance of a military post. On the lino of the beach are the great white (and red-trimmed) storehouses and ship- yards of Charles Robin & Co. and Le Boutillier Brothers, the mercantile establishments which sustain the place. Robin & Co. is an ancient house which dates from 1768, and has its headquarters at the Isle of Jersey, olT the coast of France. Paspebiac was settled in 176G by Charles Itobin, who est.'ihiished here a large fishing station. In June, 1778, the place was taken by two American privateers, which carried away the vessels Hope and Bee. The whole fleet was soon afterward cai)tured by II. II. M. frigates Huntfrand Piprr, but Itoliin was forced to pay such heavy salvage that it ruined his business. In 1783 he came back here under French colors, und in 20 years accumulated a great fortune. The firm of Charles Kobin & Co. is now tlu> most powerful on all these coasts, and keeps large Hects emj)loyed, supporting numerous villages from 7 wealthy establislunents. The heads of the firm live in Jerst>y,and their officers and man- agers on this const are forced by rule tf» lead a life of celibacy. This company e;n- I'loys 750 men, besides 17 vessels and 151 sailors ; and the LcBoutilliers have 580 men and 15 vessels. They export vnx* ((uantities of fish and oil to the West Indies und the .Mediterranean, supplying their Canadian posts, in return, with all sieeded jiroducts of other coinitrics PasjHOiiac nceives S1"0,(00 worth of goods yearly, and exi)ort9 .'s;,']()0,U(l(t worth offish. The Wst fish is .^-nt to the Mediterranean in hulk, tlie second grade goes in tubs to IJra/.il, and the poorest is shipped in ca^ks to the West Indies. The Jeney fle<>t reacbt's J'asjM'biae early in May, M' 'uds the summer fishin.i in the bay and Oiilf, and returns in necen\ier. The Anioriean mar- ket is suj)plieu by th«' ( ape-Ann fleet in these waters; and the proceeds of the au- tunnial months are sold in Cpper Canada. The annual viil.l of the Ilav of Chaleur is estiniatea at 20,1)00 iiuiutals of dry codfish, COO quintals of haddock, 3,C00 bar- P CAPE DESPAIR. noiUe GG. 241 uns from Dal- e. When tho Tracadiegiish ami gleam out 3st sentinel of nptuous Bny ch the wind ive the flood- (liac Bay, on ria and New peaks of tho Kiver, and is s, and is er- riie churches I bank ■which jrican Loyul- , Umds, seeds, iblishing this s, situated on Its harbor is ,, and forming The church :he shore, and . On the lino uses and ship- he mercantile its headquarters 1766 by Charles 8, the place was Hope and Bee. unler&nd Piprr, is business. In imulated a great ■ful on all tlK'80 »s from 7 wealthy ifficers and man- iiis company cin- itilliers have f)80 I the West Indies with all 5iocdcd of goods yearly, •loditerranenn in shipped in cahks May, r 'nds the e American mar- •occcds of the au- (! Hav of Chuleur ddock, 3,C00 bar- rels of herring, 300 barrels of salmon, and 15,000 gallons of cod-oil. The flsheries of the bay and Gulf are valued at $ bOO.OOO a year, and employ 1,500 sail of vessels and 18,000 men. In January and February the thermometer sometimes sinks to 25° below zero and the bay is overhung by dark masses of " frost smoke.'' In this season tho Aurora IJorealis is seen by night, illuminating the whole northern horizon with steady brilliance. In July and August the thermomctur ranges from 66" to 106°. and the air is tempen-d by fresh sea-breezes. The name Paspebiac means "broken banks," and the inhabitants arc called Paspy Jacks or Pospillots. Many of tho bits of agate aod jas})er called " Gasp) and Capi^ Dt^spair, whcra tlicy were lost with all on board. Fragments of the wrecks, called Le Naufrmxe Ani^lam, were to be seen along tho shores until r recent date ; and there was a wild sujterstition among the flslienneii to the eTcct that sometimes, when the sea was <|iiiet and calm, vast white waves would roll inward from the Gulf, bearing a pluintom ship crowded with men in ancient military costumes. An oflilcer st:inds on the bow, with a white-dud woniuu oil his left arm, and as the maddened surge sweeps the doomed slii]) on with light- ning speed, a tremendous criu'h ensues, the do.ir, agoniztsd cry of a wtmian swells over the great voice of despair, — and naught is seuu but the black clilfs and the level sea. Just beyond Cape Despair i? the pro.spcrous fishing-station of Cape Core, 9 M. from Pcrcd. Tlie traveller should now be on the lookout for tho Pcrcd Rock and Bonaventuro Island. The steamer runs in between the Kock and the Island, atfording fine view.s of both. "••fwili I I « 242 Iloule CG. I'ERCE. -1 I i It "I r 1 h N flr t f I Tho * Perc6 Rock is 288 ft. liigli, risinn; with precipitous walls directly from the waves; and is alMMit 500 ft. long. Tl)is citadcl-iiko clilVis pierced by a lofty arch, tliroiif^'h winch the lonpr levels of the sea are visible. Small boats sometimes traverse tliis weird passage, under the immense Gothic nrch of rock. There was formerly another tunnel, near the outer point of tho Rock, but its roof fell in witli a tremendous crash, and left a great obelisk rising from the sea beyond. The summit of tho Porcc Rock covers about two acres, and is divided into two grout districts, one of wliicli is iulmbited by tlie kuIIh, and tlie cuniioruiits dwell on tlie other. If either of these trespasses on tlie otlier's terrilory (which occurs every flftt!eu minuteH, at least), a hattlt; ensues, the slirill cries of luuidreds or thousands of birda rend the air, f,'n'at clouds of couibatauts hover over tlie plateau, and peace is only restored by the retreat of the invader. When the contlict is l)etween lar^c Hocks, it is u scene worthy of clo.«e notice, and sometimes becomes liigiily exciting. The Rock is at right angles with Mt. Joli, and is of new red Hundstonc. Tho top is covered with fine grass. Many years ago the Rock was a.sccnded by two fishermen, and the way onco being found, scores of men clambered up by ropes and curried away the eggs and young birds, finding the older ones so tame tliut they liad to be lifted off the nesta. Tliis Tust ttviary would have lieen dejjopulated Ion ', ere this, but tliat the Perce magis- trates passed a law forbidding the ascent of the Rock. There are numerous quaint and weird legends attached to this place, the strangest of whiclj is tlnit of Le Uinie . iff file Ptrrir, a phantom often seen over the plateau. " It is likely that the founda- tion for this legend can Ijo traced to the vapory or cloud-lik PERCfi. lioidc GG. 243 nils directly UV is picrccHl siblc. Smnll cuse Gothic jter point of left a great iUcd into two runts dwell on > occurs every cir thousands an, and peace between largo ighly exciting. B. i'lic top is my once being :gs and youn); e nest«. Tliis :» I'erce mapii*- merous (|uaint it of Le ilinie lat the founda- ranco the vast L'vcry fantastic E. ■winds. In frequent and bitants, most wn is visited 3, sent out by 1 buildings of i of the popu- two sections c approaches lie structure, lermcn," and as a summer ' codfish, pro- i the potatoes I its bold and for a distance without great ; views in the igc mountain- of Chaleur to 3st attractive, >» and pmhrncc? many loagties of the Oulf of St. Lawrenro, with its great fish- ing-dc^ts and stjuadrons of small boats. It overlooks Bonaventurc and Voxc6 Hock. A fine view is also obtained from the higliway near I'renih Town, including a vast area of the Gulf, the bird-colonies on top of the Iiock, I'oint St. Peter, and Darry Head, with its conspicuous Catliolic church. The walk around the mountain to the corner of tin' beach is full of interest; and the road throjjgh the iiiils to Gaspd is picturesque, though ., rougli, leading by Corny Beach and through a profound mountain-gorge. Mt. St. Anne is also known as Mt. Joli and the Table Houlante. Upon ita red •sandstone slopes are found shell-fossils, jasper, agate, and fine quartz crystals. *Bonaventure Island forms a great natural breakwater before the Perce shores, and is surrounded by deep channels. It is 2^ M. from the main- land, and the passage around the island in a snuill boat all'ords a |)leasant excursion. Bonaventurc is 2^ M. long and i| M. wide, and is a vast pile of red conglomerate rock, with a line of dill's o-500 ft. higii, facing the Gulf over 50 fathoms of water. Tliero are about 300 French Catholics on the shoi'es, connected Avith the fishing-establishment of LeBoutillicr Brothers, liic island was formerly the property of Capt. Duval, a bravo mariner of the Channel Isles, who, in the privateer Vulture, swept the coasts of France during the Napoleonic wars. He is buried on MoMut Joli. '* Porc6 is one of the curiositios of the St. Lawrence. If ono shor'd beliovc all the fantastic stories, to whicii tradition adds its jjrestine, that rest ulmut this formidable rocii, thrown forward into a ceaselessly surjjinj; and often stormy sea, like a fearless defiance from the shoal to the abyss, it could only be approached with a mysterious dread minj?led with an;;;uisli. I'erce proper is a village of 'JDO firesides, estaltlished ou a promontory that seems to guard theSt. Lawrence : this proniontory is not lofty, ' nor does it compare with our northern mountains ; but it is wrinkled, menacing, full of a fierce grandeur ; it might be said that the long battle with the ocean has revealed to it its stn'nj!;th and the power which it liolds fron> (Jod to n-strain tlio waves from passing their appointed bounds. It is an arclier of the Middle Ages, covered with Iron, immovublu in his armor, and wlio leccives, invulnerable, all tho itlows of the enemy. In face of the Atlantic, which has ix^aten it with tempests through thousands of centuries, trembling under the eternal shower of the waves, but inunovablc as a decree of heaven, gloomy, thoughtful, enduring without mnr- nnir the wrathful torrents that inundate it, l)cnt downward like a fallen god who c.xpiiites in an eternity the arrogant pride of a single day, I'erce tills us at ouce witli a sorrowful admiration uud a hublimo pity." (Aktiiur Uujes.) PercL^ was visited by Carticr in 1534, and thereafter became a celebrated fl.shing- ?J station for tlie French Heets. The coast from t'anso to Cape Rosier was granted soon after, and on its reversion to the Crown this site was i)estowed on I)e Fronsac, who founded a permanent village liere, while over 500 transient fishermen made it a Fununer rendezvous. Bisliop Laval sent the Franciscans here in ItiT'J to look after the spiritual welfare of the j)eople. and they erecteil a chapel at l*<>rc6 and tho Church of St Claire on BonavcMiturc Islanil. In KJUO the place was taken, with all its vessels, by two Uritisli frigates, wljose crews sacked anil burnt all the liou.«es at Perc6 and Uonaventure, destroyed the churches, and fired 150 gunshots through the picture of St. I'eter. In 1711 another naval attack was made l»y the Hritish, and the French ships Ilirns and Vrrnmnilois were captured in the liarbor. In 1776 a desperate naval combat took place olT I'crcd Uock, between the American pri- vateers that had dcv.istated the shores of tho Hay of (.Jhaleur and the liritish war- vcsseU li7>// and Diligence. Two of the American vessels were sunk within cauuon- ■• shot of the Uock. I r J ' i ij t 244 Jloute CO. GASP15. yi; Aftor loiiviiijj her nnclionipc off Pcrc*'! the stonnnslnp runs N. ncross the opoiiinps of Mai .lay, and at i) M. out passes Point ih- iiiR-vil!aji;o. Tlie course is next hiid to the N. W. up Gaspe Hay, with tiio fatal strand of the Grand Greve on tlie r. To the I. is Douf/lastoivn, on the bnyad hi}];oou at the mouth of the St. John River (famous for snhnoii). Tliis town was hiid out by Surveyor Doujjias, nnd is inluibitcd by Irish and French people. The vessel now steams in through the narrow strait between the grand natural breakwater of Sandybeach and the N. shore, nnd enters the *0a8p^ Basin. The J)ay is 20 M. long and 6 M. wide, nnd the basin is a secure and land-locked harbor at its head. As the steamer rounds the lighthouse on Sandybeach, beautiful views arc pre- sented of the broad haven, with the Kortli River Mts. to the W. " Tho niomitnins of flaspi^ nrc fair to bi'hold, ^\°itli their tleckiiigs of tibuduw and gleuuiings of gold.'* OaBp6 (Gulf Ifousc) is a t^wn of 800 inhabitants, beautifully situntcd between the mountains and the sea, and fronting on the S. W. arm of tho b!»sin. It is the capital of tho county and a free port of entry, nnd is de- voted to the fisheries, having several whaling-ships and a large fleet of schooners. The (Jaspe codfish arc preferred, in the Mediterranean ports, to tho Newfoundland fish, because they arc not so salty. Tho chief establishment here is that of the LeBoutillicrs, who have also a fine mansion near the village. Petroleum has been found here, and wells 7 - 800 ft. deep have been sunk by two companies. Gaspd is visited by 2-300 city people every summer, for the sake of its picturesque scenery, cool and sparkling air, and the conveniences for yachting and for fishing. The York and Dartmouth Rivers empty into the basin, and arc famous for their game-fish. Tho adjacent shores arc fertile and arc thickly settled, and the town itself is rapidly advancing in importance. On a Iiill to the S. is Fort Ramsay^ a line of guns among tho trees. This is tho first point N. of Newcastle where the steamer is moored to a wharf. Monthly mail-packets run from Gaspd to Esquimaux Bay, on tho Labrador coast (see page 230). '' What a glorious sight! Imagine a bay 20 M. long ending in a basin where a fleet of a thousand vessels could be slwltcrt^d. On right and left, two rlvern, which lire parted by the port, sweep arountl tlic umphitheatrical shores ; hills hc^c and there of savage outline or covered with rounded lawns ; below, a little line of piers, flshlng-vessels, schooners and sonic br''?s swinging their slackened sails in the li;,ht briH^a! which blows froni the shores ; honiething wild, fresh, and vigorous, like the first spring of a great creation. The Qaspi^ Hasin has traits of the giant and of tho infant ; it astonishes and charms ; it has a harmony at once delicate and striking." (Arthur Uuigs.) Tho Indians of Oasp6 were distinguLshrd, in a remote age, for unusual advances in civili;:ation. They knew the points of the compa.s8, traced maps of their country, observed the positions of the stars, and worshipped the symbol of tho cross. They informed the early .lesuit missionaries that in liir distant ages tliey were scourged t>.V a fatal p«!Stilence, until a V(^nerable man luntled on their shore, and arrested tho progress of the disease by erecting the cross (see PiiiRB Leclbrc's Nouvelle Helation de GASPL*". lioutc GG. 245 across tlic th its n>li- ', with the (ittincn, on i sahnoii). d by Irish rrow strait 3 N. sliorc, > M. wide, 1. As the 8 arc prc- ly situated lu'tn of the and is de- i?o fleet of ican ports, Tlic chief xlso a flno ells 7 -800 by 2-300 nery, cool ling. The iimous for dy settled, a liill to 3 the first iVIonthly ador coast sin where a iver<, which Is hce and inc of pit'r«, in tlic li,',ht )us, like the I niid of the id striking." al advances eir country, ro88. They re scourged irrcsted the Relation cle k. ip" b la (inspirit, Vufi). It i« Mippo^rd that this niy!«tcriou« visitor wn^nNorwnian. Tho iiiimc U(is}iii lUfiiiis •' lunil's «'Mtl,' one of \U coiiiponent |turt.s Ih'Iiij.' foiiiid iilxo in tlie ivtMiri(;in!il word!* Miila-(;iL-ntai>;nais and Ks(|uiniaiix. I'rof. llafn, tlio >?"'»* Danisli archnolonist, im« advanced a theory to the effeet that (iaspc was a tishinK-Htution of tlic Norse vikings in the lltii, i2tli, and i:)th centuries. It is 8U|>|M).sed that it was visited in loUco, who ascended tho St. I^awrence for 2(H) leagues, or elw> hy Stid'ano (iomez, who was sailing from Spain to Cuha in 1525, but was blown far from Ids courxe, and eiitcrtHi tho (lulf of St. liawrenco. Tliere is an old Castilian tradition that the gold-seeking Spanlard-s, finding no precious metiils hen*, said, " Am natin " (" There is nothhig hem" . Tills oft-rci)eated phrase became fl.\cd in tlie nieuiory of tlie Indians, though it was not conipreheiuled ; and when Carlier came, tliey snppose. [ 1.4 1 1.6^ Hiotographic Sciences Cbrporadon 23 WIST MAIN STRfET WnSTIR.N.Y. 14SM (716) •72-4503 warn 1 ^^ 24G Route G7. THE LOWER ST. LAWRENCE. H! Bliip, carried it by hoardinp. The Frcneh resisted bnt feebly, and tlie wliolc Fqu.'id- roil fell into the boUl Hriton's hands. He burnt 10 vesM-l.", and freighted the otht rs with the grand train of artillery and the other stores, with which he retrrned to England- Cliain|ilain was left in despair, at Quebec ; and the Kirkcs were burnt in ettlgy «" the Place de (ireve, at I'aris. OaspC' wa.s honored, in Itilhi, by the sojourn of the bravo old Baron Dubois d At- nugour, some time . Ilcnre he sailed to France, and s(K)n met a soldier's death in the Croatian fortress of Zrin, which ho was defenditig against the Turks. In the year 17G<) Commodore Byron's powerful fleet entered Oaspt Basin and captured the village. The Freiieli frigate La Catliarinn was in the harbor, ]>iit was soon taken and destroyed by fire. Many >ears ago the Gaspesian peninsula was erected into a province, and the seat of government was located at this town. But the number of inhabitants was not enough to warrant the expense of a vice-regal court, and the peninsula waa rcanucxcd to Quebec. 1^ u 5 HP Ei:' m ! i In leaviiif^ Gaspd Bnsiii the steamship passes the beaches of the N. shore, lined with whale-huts and fish-stapes, and then runs to the S. K. down Gaspe IJay. * Cape Oaspd is Ih M. N. of Point S,'. Peter, and fronts the Gulf with a line of sandstone clifls 692 ft. high. Off the S. E. point there was formerly a statue-like rock 100 ft. high, called La Vicille (the Old Woman), but it has been thrown down by the sea. The Indians named this rock. Gasejnon, whence the name Gaspe, which is now applied to the great peninsula between the Bay of Chalcur and the St. Lawrence River. Two leagues beyond Cape Gaspe the steamship passes Cape Rosier, and enters the St. Lawrence River. 67. The Lower St Lawrence. •' The most interesting object in Canada to mc was the River St. Lawrence, known far and wide, and for centuries, as the (ireat Kiver. Cartier, its discoverer, sailed up it as far as Montreal in 1G35, nearly a century before the coming of the Pil- grims; and I have seen a pretty accurate map of it so far, containing the city of •ilochelaga' and the river ' Sagueiiay,' in Ortelius's Tlieatrtnn Orbis Trrmrinn, printed at Antwerp in 1575, in which the famous cities of ' Norumbega' and ' Or- einora' stand on the rough-blocked continent where New England is to-day, and the fabulous but unfortunate Isle of Demons, and Frislant, and otheis, lie olt'aiul on in the unfrequented sea, some of them prowling near what is now the course of the Cunard steamers. It was famous in Europe before the other rivers of North America were heard of, notwithstanding that the mouth of the Mif. issippi is said to have beea discoven'd first, and its stream was reached by De Soto not long after ; but the St. Lawrence had attracted settlers to its cold shores long before the Mistis- Bippi, or even the Hudson, was known to the world. The first explorers declared that the summer in that cour.try was as warm as France, and they named one of the bays in the Oulf of St. Lawrenc; the Bay of Chaleur, or warmth ; but they paid nothing about the winter being as cold as Greenland. In the MS. account of Cartier's second voyage it is called 'the greiUest river, without comparison, that is known to have ever been seen.' The savages told him that it was the 'C'hemif- du Canada'' (the highway to Canada), ' which goes so far that no man hat'- ■ ver been to the eadj that they had heard.' The Saguenay, one of its tribu- taries, is described vy Cartier in 1535, and still more particularly by .lean Alphonsc in 1542, who adds : ' 1 think that this riv.r comes from the sea of Cathay, for in tills place there i.ssues a strong current, and there runs here a terrible tide.' The early explorers saw many Avhales and other sea-monsters far up the St. Lawrence. Champlain, in his map, represents a whalo spouting in the harbor of Quebec, 360 M. from what may be called the mouth of the river ; and Charlcyoix took his reader to >•■« I'.a CAPE ROSIER. Route 67. 247 lolc Fqu;i(l- tho otln rs ctrrnod to vtTc burnt ibois d Av- (t'Uhrntod posed from c wiilod to , which ho Dasin nnd larbor, but (insula waH own. Ihit I vice-rt'gal of the N. the S. K. 'cter, and the S. E. La Vicille le Indians w applied La w re no e Bosier, ticp, known erer, sailed of the Pil- thc city cif Tfrrnruvi, ' and ' Or- ;o-duy, and lie olf and L' course of .0 of North )i iH suid to »mg after ; the Mishis- rs declared nod one of but they S. account nmparison, it was the r»t no man f its tribu- Alphonsc liay, for in ide.' The Lawrrnco. bee, 360 M. s reader to 1^ >"«] :i&;a the summit of Cape Diamond to sec the ' porpoises, wliito as snow,' sporting on the siirfiice of the harbor of Qm-bec. In Champliiin's day it was comnionly called ' the Great iliver of Canada.' More than one nation has claimed it. In Ogilby'.s ' Amer- ica o' 1(570,' in the map Novi Bel-^i, it i.<< called ' Do (jlrootc Uivier van Niew Ne- derlandt ' It rises near another father o'' waters, tlic Mis.sissippi, issuing from a remarkable spring far up in the woods, cailed Lake Superior, l,5(Ht M. in circum- ference ; and several otlwr springs tlicrc are thereabouts which feed it. It makca such a noise in its tumbling down at one place as is heard all round the world. IJouchettc, the Survoyor-CJencral of the Canadas, calls it ' the most splendid river on the globe ' ; says that it is '2,'i(X) M. long (more recent geographers make it 4-fiOO M. longer ) ; "»at at the Riviere du Sud it is 11 .>!. wide ; at the I'aps of Alutanc, 25 ; at the Seven slanr Chri.-tian burial for it"? bones, or imploring the prayers of the church for its repose ? Is it the voice of the murilerer condemned to expiate his crimes on the very spot which witncssid its commission ? .... l-'or it is well known tliat (Jaspt' wreckers ",iave not alwa\s contented themselves with robbery and ))illagc, but have son.etimes nought conceal- ment and impunity by making away with viciims, — convinced that the tomb is silent and reveals not its secrets."' The Abbe Ca.«gniin attributes these weird sounds to the fate of a i)riest who refu.-ed to christen a cliild who afterwards was lost by dying unbai)tized. The conscience-stricken prii'st faded away to a skeleton, and the sound of liis moaning has ever since been heard off thee dark sliores. An- other legend tells tliat a terrible shipwreck occurred at this point, and tliat the only soul that reached the shore was a baby boy, who lay wailing on the beach througli- out the stormy night. " Where La Magdelaine run.s into the Gulf, horizontal la\ers of limestone, fretted away all around their base by the action of the tides and waves, a.s.«umG the most fantastic shajH's, — here representing ruins of OothJc archi- tecture, there forming hollow caverns into which the surf rolling produces a moan- ing sound, like an uiKjiiicb spirit seeking n-pose." The stninge wailing which is heard at certain seasons along this shore is otherwise referred to the rush of the wind through the pine-trees on the cape, whose trunks grate together with a harsh creaking. lira CAPE CIIATTE. Route 67. 249 !) Pleurese Point h 12 M. from Cnpc M:»;:^ lolaino, and is noar the romofo hamlet of Mont Louis. Lines of wild dills front the shore lor the text 28 M., to Cape St. Anne, near -which is the French Catholic vilLge of ije Ity some present the iiuindatioii of this baptiiiui whieh is made to flow plentifully on their heads."' (L.vlem.v.nt, 10-18.) Cape Chatte is 15 >L N. W. of Cape St. Anne, and sustains a white flashing light which is visible for 18 ^L Cape Chatte was named in honor of tho offlcor who sent out the expedition of !•»";{, under I'ontjjnive and Lesearbot. His style Wivs K\ iiiard de Chaste, Kni>;lit of Malta, CiMumamler of Loruietan, Grand Master of the Order of i>t. Lazarus, aud Uovernor of Dieppe. Soniowliere in this broad reach of the river occurred tlie ehl%'alrouK naval battle between the Kiiiilish war-vessel Abigail and the French ship of Kmery de Caen (sou of FiOrd de la Motte). The Abigail was commanded by Capt. Kirke, and was sailing; against Tadousac, when she was att^icked (.June, 1029) by De Caen. A running fiijht of several liours ensued, until a fortunate cannon-.'heries has now greatly declined. Matane is a village ot 300 in- habitants, devoted to fishing and lumbering, and is visited by Canadian citizens on account of the facilities for sea-bathing on the fine sandy beach. Thei.T is also good fishing for trout and salmon on the Matane I?iver. The remarkable peaks called the Pops of Matane are to the S.W., in the great Gaspesian wilderness. In clear weather, when a few miles K. of Matane, and well out in the river, Mt. Camille may be seen, 40 M. distant, S. W. by W. h W., like an island on the remote horizon. The shore is now low, rocky, and wooded, and runs S. W. 22 M. to Petit Jftti.f, which was populated with Scottish families by its seigneur. 4 M. from this point is the station of St. Octave, on the Intercolonial Rail- way. Metis is a little way W., and is occupied by 250 French Catholics 11* \\ I i \\ 250 TJou^c cr. RIMOUSKI. nnd Scotch Prcsbyterinns. It hns a Innp povprnmcnt whnrf; and the people arc enpapcd also in the purstiit of Ithick whales, whidi are sought by schooners equipped with harpoons, lances, etc. N. of Mutis, across the river, is the great jteninsula of .}fttnirouaf/an, at the mouth of the rivers Manicouapan and Outarde, abounding in cascades. The steamship comes to oil' Father Point, where there is a lighthouse nnd telegraph-station (for news of the shipping), and a hamlet of 100 in- liabitants. Here the outward-hound vessels discharge their pMota. Near this place arc the hamlets of St. Luce and St. Donat, and at St. Flavie, 15 M. N. K., the Intercolonial Railway reaches the St. Lawrence (see page 70). A few miles S. L. is Ml. Camille, which is 2,0.36 ft. high. Father Point (fo/zi/t' au Pert] was so named because the priest Henri Nouvcl ■Nvintcrcd there in 1GG3. Canada geese, ducks, nnd brant arc killed here in great numbers during the long easterly storms. St. Germain de Bimouski {Hold St. Latu'ent ; liimntiski Hotel) is G M. from Father Point, and is an incorj)orated city, an important station on the Intercolonial Railway, and the cajiital of Rimouski County nnd of a Roman-Catholic diocese. It has 1,200- l,r)00 inhabitants, with a handsome cathedral, a Catholic college, convent, episcopal palace, conrt-hojise, and other public bu'ldings. The Canadian government has built a large and substantial wharf out to the deep channel, and a prosperous future is ex- pected for the yojing city. Many summer visitors come to this place, attracted by its cool air and fme scenery. Rimouski was fotindod in lfi88, nnd in 1701 a misslonnry was pent hcrp, who fou'uU'il a parish wliich lias now (ti'own into a strong liishopric. " Kimoubki, tii« futurt" nu'tropolis of tlip lx)wrr St. liiiwronro, a iittlo rity full of promise and fur- rowed alrt-ady hy tl>e rails of the Intorrolonial, will liave its harbor of n-fupc wIuto the tjrcat ocwm-sfwiniers will stop in pasi^ing, and will attract all the ronunorco of the innncnso ngion of the Metnp^'dia, the future granary of our country." The Kiniouski lUver is funious for its abundance of trout. ISai'iiaby IkIbikI is low and wooded, and 3 M. long, sheltering the harbor of Rimouski. It was known bj its present name in 1629, when the fleet of the Kirk<.i assembled here. From 17-U to 1767 it was the home of a pious Freneh hermit, who avoitled women and i)a.>»sed most of his time in his oratory. .**onie say that he was wrecked off these shores, and vowed to Heaven to abide here if he was savetl ; others, that he had been di>a]>poiiited in love. Ii< his last hours lie was visited by |M'oplo from Rimouski, who found hiui dyuig, with his faithful dog licking his chilling face. BIc Island wa.s formerly called Le Pic, but wa.s named St. Jean by Cartior, who entered its harbor in 1635, on the anniversary of the decapitation of St. John. It was included in the scheme of D'Avaugour and VauV)an (in the 17th century) for the defence of Canada, and was int«'nded to have been made an impregnable niari- tinia fortress, sheltering a harbor of refuge for the Frencli navy. But this Mont St. Michel of the New World never received its ramparts and artillery. The place wis taken by Wolfe's British fleet of 200 ships, .lune 18, 17',!) ; and when the Trfnt alTni.' threatened to involve the United Ktates and (Jreat Brit.iin in war, in 1861, British troops were landed at Bic from the ocean-steamship Persia, and were carried hence in sleighs to Riviere du I-oup. Near this point is V Islet au Ma.'iuicre, where, ac- cording to tradition, 200 Micmac Indians were once surprised at night by the Iro- <|nois, while slumbering in a cavern. The venp'ful enemy silently filled the cave's nioutli with dry wood and then set 't on tire, shooting the unfortunate Mi( mnes ns they lea|MMl through the flames 195 of the latter were slain, and it is claimed that their bones strewed the islet until '..ithiu a few years. T ^i *yi K.^ T TROIS PISTOLES. Route 07. 251 ■%i Ste.-C^oile du Bio (two lioarflinp-Imnses) i« a prntpornu"? Fronrh vil- Inpo f.ffiOO iiili!il)it!Uit«, with a pooil harbor ami a hirpo and ujjly churrli. It is 'J M. from IJimouski, ami i<* surrouiidcil by fiiin scenery. The Hay of Bic is "hirpc oiionph to be mnjostic, small oiioiiph to bo ovprlooknl in one glance; a sljorc cut into deep notches, broken •with flats, cape«, am', beaches; a backgrouml of monntains hewn prodigally from the world's material, like all the landscapes of our Canada." The Intercolonial Rail- way was carried throngli this region at a vast expense, and sweeps .tmund the flank of the mountain, 200 ft. above tlio village, aflbrding beautiful views. Wonderful mirages arc seen o(T this port, and out towards Point de Mduts. The highlands immediately over Ilic arc nearly 1,300 ft, high; and the bay recoi:es two rivers, which descend in cascades and rapids from the neighboring gorges. As the steamship passes the lighthouse on J3i'jiiitle Islam!, the remarkable and varied peaks of the mountains to tho S. wdl attract the attention by their fantastic irregularity. Iletween I?ic and Tiois Pistoles, but not visible from the river, are the new French vil- liiges of St. Fabien, among tho mountains; St. Matthieu, with its great quarries of red stone for the Intercolonial Railway; and St. Simon, near a pretty highland lake. The rocky islets of Uosade arc 2 M. olT the shore of Notre Dnmc nding betwecfl the Saguenay River and Ooosc Island is about 20 M. wide. The spring tides rise and ihli a distance of 18 fl. The water is salt, but clear and cold, and the channel very deep. Here may be s«h'u abundantly the black seal, the white porpoi'c, and the bl.-ick whale." The white porpoise yields aa oil of tho best quality, and its skia makes good leather. 2.") 2 Jloutc 07. KAMOURASKA. . r ■•I ■- I ! 'I ■>»ii> tl Tlir Cinlf-Ports «utter is .•»ent to (Quebec. On the r. is lial IMmul, with its tall stone lij^hthouse, oil' which i» u liphtship. Cacouna and Hiviere du Lf)up (see K'onte 72) aro next passed, on the 1., and the vessel runs W. with the three steep i>lct.s called the Brandy Pots (Pots-it-l eau-iU-nv) on the r. The S. islet bears ft fixed light; the N. islet is ir>0 ft. Iiiph, of vesicnlated conplomerate in which almond-shaped bits of (piartz are imbedde(l. In war-time merchant- ships wait ofl' the Brandy Pots for their eonvoyinp frigates. N. of these inlets is Ilnre Ji>ly the vast blue curtaiM of the L-uirentides. At the N. E. the eye rests on a group of verdant isles, like a handful of emeralds dropped by the anpel of the seiu .... These isles are the favorite resort of the strangers who visit Kamouraska. There they fish, or bithi-, or seek otlicr amusements, l^ pique-nique is mucli in vogue there, oud tlic truest joys are felt."' St. Paschal ("00 inhabitants) is 5 M. from Kamouraska, on tho Grand Tiuuk Railway. " Bel cndroit, Saint-Pa.schal, par sa croupe onduleuFC, ,S'S conteaux, ses vallons, sa n)Ut«» sinueuse I C'est la Sui.^.so on lAuvergne avec leurs gais chalet"*, Leurs monts, lours pres on ,)cntc et lours jardins cofiuets." Beyond Kamouraska the steamer passes Cape Diable, and on the N. shore, 22 'M. distant, aro the bold mountains about Murray B.iy (sec Route 72). On the level j)lains to the S. is seen the tall Church 0/ St. Denis, with its attendant village; and beyond Point Orignaux is the vil- lage of Rivii're Quelle, famous for its porpoise-fisheries. Near this point is the quaint Casgi-ain manor-house, now over ft century old. This parish is named for Madam IIouoI, wife of Comptrollcr-Ooneral Ilouel, who WU8 captured hero by Indians in the 17th century. Near the beach is a rock which T ST. ANNE DE LA POCATlfiUE. Jloule 07. 253 \ •4r> boftrs tlio plain Impross of thiw Bnow-shoos, nrrl furmrrly had the marks of human fci't aiitl haiitlH. Ill |tiJ«» till' j>ri«(Ht of Uiviun* (Mu-llc U'd his jmrishiomTH, uml divivo hai-U tlu' Niw-KiiKlaiiiltTs of !^ir William l'l>li>i>.s(i llt-ct. Back among tiic hills ur« tho hamlet!) of Hi. Onesime and St. I'acotne. St. Anne de la Focatidre (two liotcls) is a largo and prosperous town, 72 M. below Quebec, with 3,000 inhabitants, a weekly paper {La Gazette ties Campat/nes), and a convent. "Nature has given to St. Anne charm- ing slioros, hiden with foliage and with melody, ravishing points of view, and verdant thickets, fitted for places of meditation." St. Aunt's Cullet/e is a stately pile of buildings with pleasant surroundings and a sumjjtuous chapel. It has 30 \)rofessors (ecclesiastics) and 230 student?, and is main- tained in a high state of efliciency. The parks cover several acres, and the nniseum is well supplied. St. Anne's Agricultural School and Model- Farm is connected with the college, and has 5 j)rofessors (zocitechny, rural law, etc.). The view from the dome of the college is of great extent and beauty. As tho steamer passes St. Anne tho frowning mass of Mt. Lboulemcnts Is seen on the N. sjjorc. A few miles beyond St. Anne the hamlet of St. Jioch-iles-Aitlnaies is passed, on the 1., and still farther to the W. is St. Jean-Port -.foU, a pretty little village about which is laid the scene of Do Gaspe's popular romance, " Les Anciens Canadiens." The Isle aux Coudres is far away towards the N. shore. The course is laid in by tho islet called the Stone Pillar^ on which there is a lighthouse, and li M. farther W. is the insulated rock of the Wood Pillar. The large and pros- perous village of L'l8let( 1,000 inhabitants) is seen on the 1. Goose Island is passed on tho r., and is connected with Crane Island {V Isle aux Grucs) by a long alluvial meadow, which produces rich hay, the total length being 11 M. Fine sporting is enjoyed here \n the spring and autumn, •when great flocks of snipe, plover, and wild geese visit these shores for a breeding-place. There is a settlement of about 150 persons on Crano Island, whence are obtained noble views of Cape Tourmente. Duriiig tho French reginio these islands {Les Isles de Ste. -Marguerite) were erected into ft seigniory and granted to an officer of France, lie built a uias.xive stone houso on Crano Island, and was afterwards Itept there, in rigorous captivity, by Madame de Granville. She claimed that she was his sister, and that ho was insane ; but this report was doubted by the people of the S. shore, and tho island was regarded with dread. She kept him in closo durance for many years, until at last he died. Beyond the S. shore village of Caj) St. Ignace (400 inhabitants) the steamer passes St. Thomas^ tho capital of Montmagny County. This town has 1,650 inhabitants, and carries on a large local trade. The College Montmagi'.y is located liere, and there is also a convent and a large and conspicuous church. The broad white band of a cascade is seen at the foot of the cove, where the Riviere du Sud falls 30 ft. On tho r., beyond St. Thomas, is seen a cluster of picturesque islets, over which the massive Cape Tourmente frowns. \l 254 Route 67. GUOrf.SE ISLE. " At Ion(fth tln'y opy \\\^\^c Toiirnipiitc, Hullrn-browod, Itiitlic his lijilil tVircliciKi ill ii (lUMsinir ci ,u(l ; Till' Tittkii of till- lotly <-ii|ii>s that ^Iciiiii III Ion;; siK ('o.xIdii down the nii^hlv htrcuin ; Whi'ii, io I Orleans nniTtfi's to tlir >i;ilit, Aitil wooils ami iiieiidows tloat in lii|uid li;;ht ; lliidu Niituru dolTs her Havii;;i> nioiintuiii dress, And all her stiTiiiii'SM melts to joveliiu-ss. On uitlier hand stretelj fields of richest (?reen, Willi KlitteriiiK village spin-s ami groves hetwecn, And snow-whlto cots udorn the fertile pluiii."' Orosse Isle formerly ajipiTtaincHl to the I'rsiilines, nnd is 2^ M. lonp. On its gmywiicivc lcil<,a's is the great Quarantine of Canada, wlierc enii- j.rrant-ships are detained until thoroughly inspected and purified. Tlie island is a vast tomb, so many have been the emigrants who have readied these shores only to die, jwisoned in the filthy and crowded ships, poorly fed and rarely ministered unto. The Quarantine-station is occupied by medical and police forces, and is under a rigid code of rules. The next town is liirthier, ftn ancient French jiarish of 400 inhabitants, W. of wliich is Ik'llechasse Island, composed of high, steej), and bare gray- -wacke rocks. On the N. are Keaux Island (150 ft. Jiigh) and Madame Island, both of which are covered with trees. St. Valicr is beyond IJelle- chasse, and is a place of 200 inhabitants, near which large deposits of bog iron-ore have been found. The Isle of Orleans (see Itoutc 71) is now approached, on the r., and over it is seen the peak of Mt. St. Anne. Nearly opposite St. John (on the Orleans shore) is St. Michel, a lumbcr- ■worklng town of 700 inhabitants, in whose spacious churcli are some ])aintings for which a high value is claimed: St. Clara, by MuriUo(?) ; St. .Jerome, Boucher ; the Crucifixion, Jiomanelli ; the Death of the Vir- gin, Gouhj ; St. liviino, Philippe de Chnmpaync ; the Flagellation, ChuUy. C M. beyond St. Michel is Beaumont, n village of GOO inhabitants, oi)[»o- site Patrick's Hole, on the Orleans shore. The settlements now grow thicker on either shore, and in about 6 M. the steamship passes the W. end of the island of Orleans, and opens the grandest ** view on the route. On the r. is the m.ajestic ]Montmorenci Fall, on the 1. the rugged heights of Point Levi and St. Joseph, and in front the stately clifls of Quebec, crowned with batteries, and flowering into spires. I» new ura alty lore I.St. and tbo Llv- bre, uOIl- eavo Ort,i, «.'ek. K'Uf, r for • thu rivur I i I &I QITKIMJC. I CaiJirlui'ttlhufml l'...i. '<2 f7f//f/fff/n I'.l. 3 U't\sln/ft/i I'Iniiilt J'...». *!: Dritfiii/d'uiu \\.'\. {^ Sf. .\fo//hnf •• nf 7 Sf. Stnut'^rr .'.'. ...v.- A.i. HSf.lUf, ;' . . r;i. Virloiirs. \\'\, Ul (Mil'hliii/iM Ihfoit I'i.H. II Sfniiiuirr \,.'\. 12 Lmnlllimernhf , ICa. \\f/rm/u,r ..: V.i. 15 (>im/Si!iki'!< ' .. I'.**. Ml ^ )>iitimfi'fmiol : K ,1. 17 (iinnvl IhinfufiiL Wl. 18 Mtiihh- ... " C-.I. ID J'^/r/i? ^V/rf//' l/«J. *i(l }hj'li4win>f IIpiis, F.II. 21 OuriJhisi- . i*:.i. tMfyjh Schrol lU.j 2*1 /ftrtnu'i^ (ifirjt'if . wJt* j 25 Cf/.fhimflfi/j^f r.i>. 36 rhoniphm .UM' V, 1. 1 27 ./a/*7 R5.'; 28 M'^//^.. .)^/«^A/;*^/?/. lis. 'y^Si.Johu.sC'au. i>.:i. V^Vrcsevll • KIM. 3:w^/M - *-•^• 3f Palucn .^ K.:5. %yt Si Louis llud E.4. 37 ./rduiiyf-ui/iunas . K..V \i-^ »^ a^ 1 QUEBEC. r^oute CS. 255 68. Quebec. »^* ^^i X Arrival. — Tf tho traveller has much bagj»apfe, it 13 best to take a carriage or the hotel ouiuibus to the Upper Town. The cnlir.ke is not adapted for carrying lug- gage. Hotels. — The * St. Louis Hotel is a large house near the Durham Terrace, kept by Willis llussell, an American gentleman. It acconuuodatcs 5<)iJ guests, and charges $ 2-50-3.50 a day. Tiic llussell House is a large modern liotel, near the St. Louis, and under the same management. Its terms ui-e lower tliau those of tlie St. Louis. The Albion Hotel is on I'il-ico St., and charges S2.50 a day. Henchey's Hotel (on St. Anne St., opposite the Anglican Cathedral) is quiet and modenite, for gentlemen travelling e/i ifarfon. The Mouiitain-IIill House, on Mountuin-llill St. , and Blanchard's Hotel, in the Lower Town, opposite Notre Dame dcs Victoires, are second-class houses, charging about S 1-50 a day. There are several good bourdiug-houses in the Upper Town, among which are those of the Misses Leonard, 3 St. Louis St. ; Mrs. McDonell, 12 St. Louis St ; Miss Lane, 44 St. Anne St. ; Mrs. Uoyce, 1 Garden St. Comfortable quarters may be ob- tained at these houses for about S 10 a week. Carriages in every variety may be procured at the livery-stables, and large numbers of tliem are kept at the stands near the St. Louis Hotel, in front of the Ca- thedral, and beyond St. John's Gate. The carriages iu the Lower Town arc less ele- gint and much less expensive than those within the walls. The rates for excur.sious in the suburbs in summer are from §3 to 84 for i-3 i)crsons (to Moutmorenci Falls, Lorette, Cap Kouge, etc.). During the autumn the rates are reduced. The faWeA«-drivers of the Lower Town usually demand S 2 for carrying 1-2 persons to the outer suburban rei^orts. The cnleclie is a .lingular and usually very shabby- looking vehicle, i^emhed on two high v.b^els, with the driver sitting on a narrow ledge in front. It is drawn by a homely but hardy little horse, and is usually driven by a French Canadian, who urges the horse forward by the sharp dis.syUabic cry, "''Mnrche-tlonc .' " Horse-Cars run botweon St. Ours, St. Sauveur, and the Champlain ^larket, every 15 minutes, traversing St. Joseph, St. Paul, and °-t. Peter Sts. The fare is 5c. ReadlnS'Rooms. — Tho elegant library of *'"» Quebec Literary and His- torical Society (in Morrin College) is courteously opened to the visits of strangers. The Library of Parliament is also accessible, and is finely arranged. The Instititt Canatlien is at 11 St. John St., and tho Y. M. C. Association has rooms at 24 Fa- brique St. (near the Cathedral). Post-Office at the corner of Buade and Du Fort Sts. According to the new rules of the Canadian postal service, stamps are not sold at the post-oifices, but are kept on sale by the booksellers. The most attractive shops are on Fabriquc and St. John Sts., and in the vicinity of the French Cathedral. KalMvays. — The Grand Trunk Railway has its terminal station at Point Levi, 317 M. from' Portland, 425 M. from Boston, and 586 M. from Xew York. Pasjongers tike the Grand Trunk ferry-steamor near the Champlain Market. The North Shore lliilway is now being built from Quebec to Montreal along the N. shore of the St. Lawrence. The Quebec & Oo.sford Railway is of most primitive construction, and runs occasional trains from its terminal station in the Banlieue for 20-25 M. up the Tallcy of the St. Charles. Steamships. — The steamships of the Allan Line leave every Saturday for Liv- erpool (fares, $80, $70, and .'$25) ; also, once weekly in summer, to Gla.sgow (fares, S 60 and S 24). Tho Dominion Line sends a weekly steamship to Liverpool (fare, SCO and $21), and tho Temperley Line despatches a fortnightly steamship to Lon- don (fares, $60 and $24). Tho vessels of the Quebec & Gulf Ports S. S. Co. leave every week for Father Point, Gasp6, Perc6, the Bay of Chaleur, the Miramichi ports, Shediac, and Pictou (.«ee page 239). Steamers for the Lower St. Lawrence (see Route 72) and for the Saguenay River (see Route 73) leave several times a week. The Portneuf leaves on Tuesday and Saturday for Cap Sant«5, Platon, Portneuf, St. Emelic, "and St. Jean Deschaillons. The Montmorenci leaves semi-weekly for Chateau Richer, St. Famille, St. Anne, and Grande Rivii-re. Steamers run to tho Isle of Orleans three times daily, and the Point-In of tlie y con si d- pplies of t. Sln'p- pize are i^te years er Town, ncQ here finishlps, ntroduc- irles and >i-ved the h which ■ the two f r Town :;Iy forti- strands ccd, and 1 a stylo fdiajval- ', statoly fruitful re, flow- of ideal ) with a ted haze 1 Quebec narrow JrtuQes, D) tnnjestic ets, like 1 of the tie with .Charles, e fields , — the I u tonus le lofty ^ QUEBEC. Route GS. 257 •^ •'^'9 % i 1 i ranfjc of purple mountains of the most picturesque forms which bound the prospect, unite to form a coup (Vail, which, witliout exaggeration, is scarcely to be surpassed in any part of the world.'' (Hawkins. ) " I rubbed my eyes to be sure that 1 was in the nineteenth century, and was not entering one of tho.^: •4^y* QUEBEC. Route GS. 259 t r^. t The Durham Terrace is on the rivcrward edge of the Tapper Town, and Rtnnds on the buttresses and phitform fonnerly occupied by the Chateau of St. Louis, which was built by Champlaiu in 1G20. The old Cliuteau was a massive stone structure, 200 ft. lonpr, used for a fortress, prison, and governor's palace, and it stood until 1834, when it was ruined by fire. The terrace is 200 ft. above the river, and commands a *view of surpass- ing beauty. Immediately below are the sinuous streets of the Lower Town, with its wharves projecting into the stream. On one side are the lofty fortified blufls of Point Levi, and on the other the St. Charles River winds away down 'ts peaceful valley. The white houses of Beauport stretch off to the vicinity of the Montmorenci Falls, while beyond arc seen the farms of L' Ange Gardicn, extending towards the heights of St. Fereol. Vessels of all classes and sizes are anchored in the broad basin and the river, and the rich and verdant Isle of Orleans is in mid-stream below. Beyond and over all are the bold peaks of the Laurentian range, with Cape Tourmente towering over the river far in the distance. The Terrace is the favorite promenade of the citizens, and presents a pleasant scene in the late afternoon or on pleasant Sundays. At the upper end of the Terrace is a plain stone structure called the Old Chateau (built in 1779, for the British governors), which is now occupied by the Laval Normal and Moillars and pilasters, while over the chancel hang the old Crimean colors of the G9th Regiment of the British army. Under the altar lie the remains of Charles Lennox, Duke of Richmond, Lennox, and Aubigny, and Gov- ernr r-General of Canada, who died of hydrophobia in 1819. There are numerous mural monuments in the cathedral, and in the chancel are the mc:r,.-irials to the early Anglican Bishops of Quebec, Jacob Mountain and Charles James Stewart. The former consists of a bust of the Bishop, alongside of which Is a statue of Religion, both in relief, in white marble, on a background of black marble. Dr. Mountain was in the presence of King George, when he expressed a doubt as to whom he should appoint as bishop of the new See of Quebec. Said the doctor, " If your Majesty had faith, there would be no difliculty." " How so? " said the king. Mountain answered, " If you had faith, you would say to this Mountain, Be thou removed into that See, and it would bo done." It was. Between the cathedral and the Durham Terrace is a pretty little park called the Place tVArmes, beyond which are the ruins of the court-house, which was recently destroyed by fire. Beyond the court-house (on St. Louis St.) is the Masonic Hall, opposite which are the old-time buildings of the St. Louis Hotel and the Commissariat and Crown Lands Depart- ments. The latter is known as the Kent House, from the fact that Prince Edward, the Duke of Kent (father of Queen Victoria), dwelt here during his long sojourn at Quebec. Opposite the St. Louis Hotel is a quaint little building (now used as a barber-shop), in which Montcalm held his last council of war. St. Louis St. runs out through the ramparts, traversing a quiet and solidly built quarter, and is prolonged beyond the walls as tb-^ Grand AUee. The * Market Square is near the centre of the Upper Town, and pre- sents a curious and intereeting appearance on market mornings, when the French peasantry bring In their farm-produce for sale. " A few steps had brought them to the market-square in front of the cathedral, where a little belated tr ,fflc stlU lingered in the few old peasant-women hovering over baskets of fiuch fruits and vegetables as had long been out of season in the States, and the housekeepers and servants cheapening these wares. A sentry moved nicohanically up and down before the high portal of the Jesuit Barracks, over the arch of which were still the letters I. II. S. carved long ago on the keystone ; and the ancient edifice itself, with its yellow stucco front and its grated windows, had every right to be a monastery turned barracks in France or Italy. A row of quaint Btone houses — inns and shops — formed the upper siile of the square, while the luodern buildings of the Rue Fabrique en the lower side might serve very well for ■fk*^ «^ ^ QUEBEC. P.oiUc CS. 2G1 I T J. ( •^ that show of Iniprovomenl whirh rtrrpcns tlio penilmpnt of tlio nriRhlmrlnK antiquity and dt'Cfiy in Liitiii towns. Am for tlio catht'drul, whirh faced tin; rf)nv«Mit from across tlic sfiuare, it was as cold and torpid a liit of Koimissance as could lie found in Home itsflf. A red-coated soldier or two passod throunh the sctuare : three or four neat '"ttlo French policemen lounged about in Mue unifnrns and flaring havelocks ; sonie walnut-fm-cd, blue-eyed old citiz-ens and jn'iusants sat upnu thu thresholds of the row of old houses and jrazed dreamily throuRh the sn»oke of their pipes at the slight stir and glitter of shopping about the fine stones of the Uuo Faltriquc. An air of serene disoccupation pervaded the place, with which the drivers of the long rows of calashes and carriages in front of the cathedral did not discord. Whenever a stniy American wandered into the square, there was a wiM flight of these drivers towards him, and his person was lost to sight amidst their Santomime. They did not try to underbid each other, and they were perfectly good- umorod. As soon as he had made his choice, the rejected multitude returned to their places on the curbstone, pursuing the successful asjdrant witli inscrutjililo jokes as he drove off, while the horses went on munching the contents of their 'leathern head-bags, and tossing them into the air to shake down the lurking grains of corn." (IIoWELLs'3 A Chance Acquaintance.) On the W. side of this Square is the great pile of buildings which were begun in 1646 for the Jesuits' College- For some years this structuro has been deserted, and in a state of dilapidation; and it is thought that it will be levelled and that on its site and in the spacious grounds adjacent will be founded a new market-house, although a movement has been mede to erect here a superb Parliament Building for the Province of Quebec. The present structure is a parallelogram 224 ft. long by 200 ft. wide, and 8 stories high, whose quadrangle is entered by the lofty archway on tho Square. The Jesuits' College was foundef? in IG^l, one year before Harvard College, and performed a noble work in its day. It was suspended in 1759 by Gen. Murray, who quartered his troops here, and in 1809 tlie property reverted to the crown, on the death of the la.>c of the Jesuit Fathers. The buildings were used as barracks until the British ormies evacuiited Canada. " From this seat of piety and learning i.ssued tliose dauntless missionaries, who made tho Gospel known over a ?pace of GOO leagues, and preaclied the Christian faith from tlie St. Law- rence to the Missi.ssippi. In this pious work many suffered death in the mo.-<6 cruel form ; all underwent clanger and privation for a scries of years, with a coii- Btancy and patience that must always command the wonder of the historian and the admiration of posterity." The * Basilica of Quebec is on the E. side of the Market Square, and was known as the Cathedral of Notre Dame until 1874, Avhen it wa.s elevated by Pope Pius IX. to the rank of a basilica. It was founded in 1666 by Bishop Laval, and was destroyed by tho bombardment from Wolfe's batteries in 1759. The present building dates from the era of the Conquest, ana its exterior is quaint, irregular, and homely. From its towers the Angelus bells sound at 6 o'clock in the morning and 6 in the evening. The interior is heavy, but not unpleasing, and accommodates 4,000 persons. The High Altar is well adorned, and there are several chapels in the aisles. The most notable pictures in the Basilica are, ** the Crucifixion, by T'a» Dyck (" the Christ of the Cathedral"; the finest paint- ing in Canada), on the first pillar 1. of the altar; the Ecstasy of St. Paul, Carlo Maratti ; the Annunciation, Restout ; the Baptism of Christ, Halle ; the Pentecost, Vignon ; Miracles of St. Anne, Plamondon ; Angels waiting 2G2 Route GS. QUEBEC. on Christ, RcsUmt (in tho choir); the Nativity, copy from A dbah Cn- rncci; Holy Family, Blanchard. The Basilica oornplos tlip site of the ancient church of Notre Dnmc do la Rocou- Trance, built in ItJJi'J Ity t'linnipliiin, in uieniory of the recovery of Canada by France. Within its walls are buried Bishops Laviil and IMessis ; Chaniplain, tlie lieroic ex- plorer, founder and first fiovernor of Quebec : i»nd the Count dc Frontenac, the fiery and chlvalric Oovernor of Canada from 1(5HS to 1G98. >ftcr iiis deatli liis heart was enclosed in a leaden casket and sent to his widow, in France, but the proud countess refused to receive it, saying that she would not have a dead heart, whieli, while iivinp, had not beeu hers. Tiie nol)lc lady (" the marrellously beautiful Anne do la Oniud-Trianon, surnanied The Divine'") was tlie friend of Madame de ytWiRnc, and was alienated from Frontenac on account of his love-affair witli the brilliant Versaillaise, Madame de Montespan. Most of the valuable paintings in tho Basilica, and elsewhere in Canada, were bought in France at the epoch of the Revolution of 1793, when the churches and convents had Iktu pillaged of their treasures of art. Many of them were purchased from tiieir captors, and sent to tho sec '.e shores of New France. Back of the Hasilica, on Tort Dauphin St., is the extensive palace of the Archbishop, surrounded by quiet gardens. To the E. are the Parlia- ment Building and tiie Grand Battery. The * Seminary of Quebec adjoins the Cathedral on the N., and covers several acres with its piles of quaint and rambling buildings and quiet and .sequestered gardens. It is divided into Le Grand Scminairc and Le Petit Seminaire, the former being devoted to Roman-Catholic theology and the education of priests. The Minor Seminary is for the study of litera- ture and science (for boys), and the course extends over nine years. Boarders pay $ 150 a year, exclusive of washing, music, and draw- ing. The students may be recognized in the streets by their peculiar uniform. The quadrangle, with its old and irregular buildings; the spot- less neatness of the grounds; the massive walls and picturesquely outlined groupings, will claim the interest of the visitor. " No such building could be seen anywhere save in Quebec, or in some ancient provincial town in Normnndy. You osk for one of the gentlemen (priests), and you are introJuoed to liis modest apartment, where you find him in liis soutane, with all the polish, learning, and bonhonunie of the nineteenth century." Visitors are con- ducted over the building in a courteous manner. The Sentiiiary Cliapel has some fine paintings (beginning at the r. of the en- trance): the .Saviour and the Samaritan Woman, Lm Greme; the Virgin attended by Angels, Dieu; the Crucifixion, Monet; the Ilermits of the Thebaid, Quillot; the Vision of St. Jerome, Z)'/fMWm ; the Ascension, Philippe de Clinmpagne ; the Burial of Christ, Hutin; (over the altar) the Flight into Egypt, Vanlno; above which 's a picture of Angels, Lebrun; the Trance of St. Anthony, Parrocel cP Avignon ; the Day of Pentecost, P. de Champagne ; St. Peter freed from Prison, De la Fosae; The Baptism of Christ, Halle; St. Jerome Writing, /. B. Champagne; Adoration of the Magi, Bonnieu. *'The Chapel on the r. of the chief altar con- tains the relics of St. Clement ; that on the 1. the relics of St. Modestus." Tho Seminary of Quel)cc was founded in 16G3 by M de Laval, who endowed it with all his great wealth. The first buildings were erected in 1666, and the present Semi- nary is composed of edifices constructed at different dates since that time. In 1865 a large part of the quadrangle was burnt, but it has since been restored. In 1704 there were 54 teachers and students ; in 1810 there were 110 ; and there are now over 400 (exclusive of the University students). " When we awake its departed shades, they rise upon us from their graves, in strange romantic guise. Men steeijed in antique learning, pale with the close breath of the cloister, here spent the noon and evening of their lives, ruled savage hordes with a mild paternal sway, and ttood m^ W^ \i QUEBEC. Jioute GS. 263 M^ *?» VJ Bcrcne before the cHrest shnpcs of death. Men if courtly natures, heirs to the polinh of a fiir-rvarhiiiK imcustry, hero with their daaotlcss hardihood put to tihaiue tho boldest «on8 of toil."' Tlio * Laval University is between the Seminary gardens and theram- part.s, nnG5 is rich in lumes of umes, ill e, to the out J of a steep, )ame des over the he vault e author lotlier of ofBuade the stoiJO yet, bitci me.") who hinl been put ed by nil ;t Iiidi:m it Poudi- town, on f the |.iti- mj Ni'l.«()ii ly. "Unw orizons in M'ithoiit cy on tlic it beiniifi« Cnnndian fleet, but n an uu- jped. spacious gardens iris, and 2 parlors otfico is t at tlio 'elagiu?, raculous Old; St. l> ^ I Peter, Spanish School; and Fovoral other''. In the shrine* are relics of St. Clonient Martyr, and other siiints iVuni the lldman catacdnil).*. Within i< grave made by a slii'll whicii burst in this chapel duriiif? tlie liomttarduient of 1759 is buried "the Higli and Mighty Lord, Louis .Joseph, .Murquis of Montcalm," and over his remains is the iuscri^ition, " Ilonneur ii Mont- ''alm! Le dcstiu en lui di^robant de h\ victoirc i"a rc'-cnmiicu'^e |i;ir uih* mort giorieuse." Montcalm's skull is carefully preserved under glass, and is shown as an object worthy of great veneration. The first Suporlor of the UrsuUne Convent was Motlier Mario do I'lnramr.tion, who was " ri'veri-d as tlio St. Teresa ol lier time." She n)ii.stere Indi.m ^'irls. The eonvent wa.s burnt down in ir)')0, and atjain in I'iSO, wiien tlie l'rsnline.<< were slieitered by tlie Itnpital- it*res. The Archbishop has recently ordered that the term of profesAiou shall be for ecven years, instead of for life. Morrin College occupies a massive stone building at the corner of St. Anne and Stanislas Sts., and is the only non-Kpiscopal Protestant col- lege in the Province. It was founded by Dr. Morrin, and has 6 professors, but has had but little success as an cilucationnl institution. The build- ing was erected by the Government in 1810, for a prison; and occupied the site of an ancient fort of Champlain's era. It was used as a prison until the new Penitentiary was built, on the Plains of Abraham, and in the N. wing are tlio " sombre corridors that not long ago resounded with the steps of the jailers, and the narrow cells that are never enlivened by a ray of light." The * Library of the Quebec Literary and Historical Society is in the N. wing of Alorrin College, and contains a rare collection of books re- lating to Canadian history and science, in the French and English lan- guages. This society Is renowned for its valuable researches in the annals of the old St. Lawrence Provinces, and has published numerous volumes of records. It includes in its membership the leading literati of Eastern Canada. There is a small but interesting museum connected with the library-hall. St. Andrew^s Church, with its school and manse, occupy the triangle at the intersection of St. Anne and Stanislas Sts. It is a low, quaint buihl- ing, erected in 1809 on ground granted by Sir James Craig. Previously, from the time of the Conquest of Canada, the Scottish Presbyterians had worshipped in the .Jesuits' College. The Wedeyan Church is a comforta- ble modern building, just below Morrin College; beyond which, on Dauphin St., is the chapel of the Congregational ists (Roman Catholic). At the corner of St. John and Palace Sts. (second story) is a statue of Wolfe, whicli is nearly a century old, and bears such a relation to Quebec as does the Mannikin to Brussels. It was once stolen at night by some 12 i i i ) » i k II III ] I''' ■1 . 2GG A'oM^c 68. QUEBEC. royptpring naval omccrs, and carried olT to Rarbadocs, whence it was rc- turnctl many months after, enclosed in a coflin. Tlio * HOtel-Diou Convent and Hospital i.s tho most cxt^nsivo pile of bnildings in Quebec, and is situated on Talaco St. (r. side) and the Ram- part. K. of tltc lt)ng ranf;es of buildings (in which 650 sicii persons can be nccomino(hit('il) arc pleasant and retired gardens. Tiic convent-churcii i.s entered from Ciiarlevoix St., and contains valuable pictures: the Nativity, by Sttlla; the Virgin and Cliild, Coypd; tlio Vision of St. Teresa, Afenv- geot; St. IJruno in Meditation, Le Sueur (called " the Raphael of Franco"); the * Praying Monk, by Zurbaran (undoubted); and fine copies of the Twelve Apostles, ijy Raphael, and the Descent from the Cross, hy Rubens (over the high altar). The Hotel Dion was founded by the Duchessc d'Agnillon (nicco of Cardinal Illche- lleu) in 1039. In 1064 one of the jtrescut buildingH was crrctcd, and niofit of it was built during; the 17tli century, while Talon, liaron des I.>ilet.'<, completed it In 17it doctors of the city. The singing of the nuns during the Sunday services will Interest the visitor. The most precious relic in the IIotel-Dieu is a silTcr bust (in life size) of Bri'beuf, in who.se base is preserved the skull of that heroic martyr. Jean de Bri'beuf, aNor- nian .lesuit of noble blood, arrived at Quebec with Oham plain in 1633, and went to the Huron country the next year. Here he had frequent celestial visions, and labored successfully in the work of converting the nation, lie often said: " Scntio me vehf77ienter imprlli ad morifiulum proChristo " ; and his wish was gratified when his mission-town of St. Ignace was stormed by the Iroquois (in 1G49). He was bound to a stake and scorched from head to foot ; the savages cut away his lower lip, and thrust a red-hot iron down his throat ; hung around his neck a necklace of red-hot collars (•' but the indomitable .iriest stood 'ike a rock") ; poured boiling water over liis head and face, in demoniac mockery of baptism ; cut strips of llesli from his limbs, and ate them before his eyes ; scalped him ; cut open his breast, and drank his living blood ; filled his eyes with live coals ; and after four hours of torture, a chief tore out his heart and devoured it. " Thus died Jean de Br^beuf, the founder of the Huron mission, its truest hero, and its greatest martyr. lie came of a noble race, — the same, it is said, from which sprang the English Earls of Arundel ; but never had the mailed barons of his line confronted a fate so appalling with so pro- digious a constfincy. To the last he refused to flinch, and ' his death was the aston- ishment of his murderers.' " The delicate and slender Lalemant, Br(?beuf "s eol- Icflgiie on the mission, was tortured for seventeen hours, with the most refined and exquisite varieties of torment. " It was said that, at times, he seemed befide him- self: then, rall;>ing, with hands uplifted, he oflcred his sufTerings to Heaven aa a sacrifice." The bones of Lalemant are preserved at the Hotel Dieu. Around the Ramparts. * The Citadel is an immense and powerful fortification, covering 40 acres of ground, and is situated on the summit of Cape Diamond (so called from the glittering crystals found in the vicinity), which is said to be " the coldest place in the British Empire." Since the evacuation of Canada by the Imperial troops, the Citadel has been garrisoned by Provincial volun- teers, and visitors are usually permitted to pass around the walls under the escort of a soldier. The **view from the most northerly bastion (which contains an immense Armstrong gun) surpasses that from the Durham Terrace, and is one of the most magnificent in the world. The I tr l?» QUEBEr. Route GS. 207 (St. Clmrlca is seen windiiip; through a hcnntiful undiihxtinj* ;>]aiii, nnd tho ppii-os of r.enuport, Chivrlosbourj?, and Loiotto, with tlio white cottapcs I around them, form plcasiujr features in the hindscapc. On the S. of tho parade are tlio officers' quarters and the bomb-proof hospital, while bar- racks and magazines arc seen in advance. The armory contains a great numl)er of military curiosities, but is not always accessible to visitors. ' The Citadel is separated from tho town by a broad glacis, which is broken ■I by three ravelins; and tho wall on that side contains a lino of casemated , Ijarrucks. The entrance to the Citadel is by way of a winding road which leads in from St. Louis St. through tho slope of the glacis, and enters first tin- outer ditch of the ravelin, beyond tho strong Chain Gate. Thence it passes, always under the mouths of cannon, into the main ditch, which is faced with masonry, and at this point opens into a narrow parade, over- looked by tho retiring angles of tho basdon. The curious iron-work of tho Chain Gate being passed, the visitor finds himself in an open triangular parade, under the loopholes of tho Dalhousio Bastion. " Such structures carry us back to the Middle Ages, the siege of Jerusalem, and St. Jean d'Acre, and tlic days of the Buccanicrs. In the armory of tho Citadel tlioy showed mo a clumsy implement, lon,j since useless, which they called a Lombard gun. I thought that their whole Citadel was such a Lombard gun, fit object for tho Dvuseums of the curious Silliman states that * the cold is so intense in tlio winter nights, particularly on Capo Diamond, that tlie sentinels cannot stand it ^^ more than one hour, and are relieved at the expiration of that time ; and even, as it is said, at much shorter intervals, in case of the most extreme cold.' I shall never again wake up in a colder night tlian usual, but I shall think liow rapidly tho sentinels arc relieving one another on the walls of Quebec, their quicksilver being all frozen, as if apprehensive that some hostile Wolfe may even then be scaling tlio Heights of Abraham, or some persevering .\rnold about to issue from the wildernesx ; some Malay or Japanese, perchance, coming round by the N. W. coast, have chosen that moment to assault the Citadel. Why I should as soon expect to see the senti- nels still relieving one another on the walls of Nineveh, which have so long been buried to the world. What a troublesome thing a wall is I I thought it was to de- fend me, and not I it. Of course, if they had no walls they would not need to have any sentinels." (Tuoreau.) The Citadel was formerly connected with the Artillery Borracks, at the farther end of the city, by a bomb-proof covered way 1,837 yards long. These fortifications are 345 feet above the river, and considenibly higher tlian the Upper Town. The rock on which they arc founded is of dark slate, in which are limpid quartz-crystals. The picturesque walls of Quebec arc of no defensive value since tlie modern im- provements in gunnery ; and even the Citadel could not prevent dangerous ap- proachcs or a bombardment of the city. Skilful military engineers have therefore |t^ laid out a more extensive system of modem fortifications, including lines of powerful detached forts on the heights of Point Levi, and at Sillery. The former were begun in 1867, and are nearly completed ; but the Sillery forts arc not yet commenced. The spirit of utilitarianism, which has levelled the walhs of Frankfort and Vienna and is menacing Boston Common, has been attacking the nimparts of Quebec f t many years. The people of the Upper Town and the extra-muml wards arc doubt- less much incommoded by this broad wall of separ-ation, which i'os also become use- less in a military point of view. However mucli it may be deplored by antiquarians and men of culture, the day is at hand when the mediaeval fortifications of Quebec will be sacrificed to the spirit of the times. There are not wanting reverent Ameri- can Ru.skins to cry out against such demolition, but the wishes of the indigenous population will probably prevail against these ideas. Alresuly the picturesque old 1 gates a'-e gone. The St. Louis and Prescott Qates were taken down in 1871, and tho ( Palace and Hope Gates were removed in 1873. I :a f ! V, r* 1$ m • I ]' 1 m MJ 1 i- s Pi 268 iZottfe 6S. QUEBEC The Esplanade extends to the r. from the St. Louis Gate (within), and the tourist is recommended to walk along the ramparts to St. John's Gate, viewing the deep fosse, the massive outworks, and the antiquated ord- nance at the embrasures. On the r. are the Stadacona Club, the Congre- gational (Catholic) Church, and the National School; and Montcalm's "Ward is on the 1. * St. John's Gate is the only remaining gate of the city, and is a strong and graceful structure which was erected in 1869. While rallying his soldiers outside of this gate, the Marquis de Montcalm was mortally wounded; and Col. Brown (of Massachusetts) attacked this point while Arnold and Montgomery were fighting in the Lower Town. To the 1. is St. John's Ward (see page 260); and the road to St. Foy passes below. The ramparts must be left at this point, and D'Auteuil and St. Helene Sts. follow their course by the Artillery Barracks, amid fine grounds at the S. W. angle of the fortifications. The French garrison erected the most important of these buildings (600 ft. long) in 1750, and the British Government has since made large additions; but the barracks are now imoccupied and are closed up. On and near St. Helene St. are sev- eral churches, — St. Patrick's (Irish Catholic), Trinity (Anglican), the Baptist, and the Congregational. After crossing the wide and unsightly gap made by the removal of the Palace Gate, the rambler may follow the course of the walls from the Hotel Dieu (see page 266) to the Parliament Building. They occupy the crest of the cliff", and command fine vicAvs over the two rivers and the Isle of Orleans and Laurentian Mts. The walls are thin and low, but are fur- nished with lines of loopholes and with bastions for artillery. The walk takes an easterly course beyond the angle of the convent-buildings, and passes between the battlements and the high walls of the Hotel-Dieu gar- dene- for nearly 500 ft. The streets which intersect the Rampart beyond this point arc of a quaint and pleasing character. One of them is thus described by Ilowells : " The thresholds and doorsteps were covered with the neatest and brightest oilcloth ; the wooden sidewalk was t y clean, like the steep, roughly paved street itself; and at the foot of the hill down which it sloped was a breadth of the city wall, pierced for musketry, and, past the corner of one of the houses, the half-length of cannon showing. It hiixl all the charm of those ancient streets, dear to Old- World travel, in which the pa.st and present, decay and repair, peace and war, liavc made friends in an eflcct that not only wins the eye, but, however illogicaliy, touches the heart ; and over the top of the wall it had a stretch of landscape as I know not what European street can command : the St. Lawrence, blue and wide ; a bit of the white village of Beauport on its bank ; then a vast breadth of pale green , upward-sloping meadows ; then the purple heights; and the hazy heaven above them." Since Pre-^cott Gate fell, there was " nothing left so picturesque and characteristic as Hope Gate, and I doubt if anywhere in Europe'there is a more mediasval-looking bit of military architecture. The heavy stone gateway is black with age, and the gate, which has probably never been closed in our century, is of massive frame, set thick with mighty bolts and spikes. Tiie wall here sweeps along the brow of the crag on which the city is built, and a steep street drops down, by stone-parapeted curves and angles from the Upper to the Lower Town, where, in 1775, nothing but a narrow lane bordered the St. Lawrence. A considerable breadth of land has giiico been won from the river, and severnl streets and many piers now stretch between this;iUey and the water; but the old Sault au Matelot still crouches and creeps n4h %:* O (> QUEBEC. Jloute GS. 2G9 %H t* (> alonjr nnder the shelter of the city wall and the overlianging rock, which is thickly bearded with weeds and grass, and trickles with abundant moisture. It must bo an ice-pit in winter, and I sliould think it the last spot on the continent for the summer to find ; but when the summer has at list found it, the old Sault au Matelot puts on a vagabond air of Southern leisure and abandon, not to bo matched anywhere out of Italy. Looking from that jutting rock near Hope Gate, behind which the defeated Americans took refuge from the fire of their enemies, tiie vista is almost unique for a certain scenic squalor and gypsy luxury of color : sag-roofed barns and stables, weak-backed and sunken-chested workshops of every sort loungo along in tumble-down succession, and lean up against the cliff in every imaginable posture of worthlessness and decrepitude ; light wootlen galleries cross to them from the second stories of the houses which look back on the alley ; and over these galleries flutters, from a labyrinth of clothes-lines, a variety of bright-coloretl garments of all ages, sexes, and conditions ; while the footway underneath abounds in gossiping women, smoking men, idle poultry, cats, children, and large indolent Newfoundland dogs." (HoWELLs's A Chance Acquaintance.) Passing the ends of these quiet streets, and crossing the gap caused by the removal of Hope Gate, the Rampart promenade turns to the S., by tlie immense block of the Laval University (see page 263) and its concealed gardens. The course is now to the S., and soon reaches tlie * Grand Bat- tery, where 22 32-pounders command the river, and from whose terrace a pleasing view may be obtained. The visitor is then obliged to leave the walls near the Parliament Building (see page 263) and the site of the Pres- cott Gate. A short ddtour leads out again to the Durham Terrace (see page 259). Des Carri6res St. runs S. from the Place d'Armes to the Gov- ernor'' s Garden, a pleasant summer-evening resort, with a monument 65 ft. high, erected in 1827 to the memory of Wolfe and Montcalm, and bear- ing the elegant aud classic inscription: Mortem. Virtus. Communem. Famam. Historia. monumentum. posteritas. Dedit. In the lower garden is a battery which commands the harbor. Des Carrieres St. leads to the inner glacis of the Citadel, and by turning to the r. on St. Denis St., its northern outworks and approaches may be seen. Passing a cluster of barracks on the r., the Chalmers Church is reached. This is a symmetrical Gothic building occupied by the Presbyterians, and its services have all the peculiarities of the old Scottish church. Beyond this point is St. Louis St., whence the circuit of the walls was begun. i 4» The Montcalm and St. John Wards extend W. on the plateau, from the city-walls to the line of the Martello Towers. The population is mostly French, and the quarter is entered by passing down St. John St. and through St. John's Gate. Glacis St. leads to the r., just beyond the walls, to the Convent of the Gray Sisters, which has a lofty and elegant chapel. There are about 70 nuns, whose lives are devoted to teaching and to visiting the sick. This building sheltei's 136 orphans and infirm persons, T 270 Route OS. QUEBEC. {. ! nnd the sisters teach 700 female children. It overlooks the St. Charles valley, commanding fine views. Just above the nunnery is the Convent of the Christian Brothers, facing on the glacis of the rampart. A short distance out St. .lohn St. is St. Matthew's Church (Episcopal); beyond which is the stately Church of St. John (Catholic), whose twin spires are seen for many leagues to the N. and W. The interior is lofty and light, and contains 12 copies from famous European paintings, executed by Plamondon, a meritorious Canadian artist. Claire-Fontaine St. leads S. from this church to the Grande Alice, passing just inside the hnc of the Martello Towers; and Sutherland St., leading into the Lower Town, is a little way beyond. The St. Foy toll-gate is about i M. froni St. John's Church. " Above St. John's Gate, at the end of the street of that name, devoted entirely to business, there is at sunset one of the most beautiful views iniaKiuable. The river St. Charles, gambolling, as it were, in the rays of the departing liniiinary, the light still lingering ou the spires of Lorette and ( harlesbourg, until it fades away beyond the lofty mountains of Bonhommc and Tonnonthuan, presents an evening scene of gorgeous and surpassing splendor." (II.\wkins.) " A sunset seen from the heights above the wide valley of the St. Charles, bathing in tender light the long undulating lines of remote hills, and transfiguring with glory the great chain of the Laurentides, is a sight of beauty to remain in the mind for- ever." (Marshall.) The Montcalm Ward may also be reached by passing out St. Louis St., through the inti'icate and formidable linos of ravelins and redoubts near the site of the St. Louis Gate. On the r. is the skating-rink, beyond wliich are the pleasant borders of the Grand AU^e. The Convent of the Good Shepherd is in this ward, and has, in its church, a fine copy of Murillo's " Conception," by Plamondon. There are 74 nuns here, 90 penitents, and 600 girl-students. The dark and heavy mediaeval structure on the Grand Alice was built for the Canada Military Asylum, to take care of the widows and orphans of British soldiers who died on the Canadian stations. Near the corner of De Salaberry St. is St. Bridget's Asylum, connected with St. Patrick's Church. The Ladies' Protestant Home is nearlj' opposite, and is a handsome building of white brick, where 70 old men and young girls are kept from want by the bounty of the ladies of Quebec. The Martello Towers are four in number, and were built outside the extra-mural wards in order to protect them and to occupy the line of heights. They were erected in 1807 - 12, at an expense of $ 60,000, and are arranged for the reception of 7 guns each. They are circular in form, and have walls 13 ft. thick toward the country, while on the other side they are 7 ft. thick. The new Jail is about J M. in advance of the towers, and is a massive stone building, with walls pierced for musketry. Near this point (turning to the 1. from the Grand All(5e beyond tlie toll-gate), and on the edge of the Plains of Abraham (extending to the S.), is a monument consisting of a tall column, decked with trophies, and rising from a square base, on which is the inscription : •-I 1} VF% m \ QUEBEC. JlotitcGS. 271 t. Charles B Convent A short ); beyond spires are and light, ccuted by :. leads S. inc of the ['own, is a St. John's i entirely to The river •y, the light way beyoud Qg scene of ■lcs,bn thing g with glory le mind for- Louis St., jubts near ond -vvliich the Good r Murillo's itcnts, and the Grand he widoAvs )ns. Near id with St. )osite, and oung girls i;tside the he line of 0,000, and ir in form, ir side they )\ver9, and Near this ■c), and on monnment n a square *p3 m -m HERE DIED WOLFE victokious. Sept. 13. 1759. "The horror of the night, the precipice scaled by Wolfe, the empire he \rith a handful of men added to England, and the glorious catastrophe of contentedly ter- minating life where his fame began Ancient story may be ransacked, and ostentatious philosophy thrown into tlie account, before an episode can be found to rank with Wolfe's." (Willum Pitt.) The Lower Toum. The most picturesque approach frc-a ihe Upper to the Lower Town is by the Champlain Stejn (see page 264). This route leads to the busiest and most crowded part of the old river wards, and to the long lines of steam- boat wliarves. Notre Dame des Victoires is in the market square in the Lower Town, and is a plain old structure of stone, built on the site of Cliamplain's residence. It was erected in 1690, and Avas called Notre Dame des Victoires to commemorate the deliverance of the city from the English attacks of 1690 and 1711, in honor of which an annual religious feast was instituted. A prophecy was made by a nun that the church would be de- stroyed by the conquering British ; and in 1759 it was burned during the bombardment from Wolfe's batteries. S. of Notre Dame is the spacious Champlain Market, near an open square on whose water-front the river- steamers land. The narrow Champlain St. may be followed to the S., under Cape Diamond and by the point where Montgomery fell, to the great timber-coves above. St. Peter St. runs N. between the cliffs and the river, and is the seat of the chief trade of the city, containing numerous banks, public offices, and wholesale houses. The buildings are of the prevalent gray stone, and are massive and generally plain. The parallel lane at the foot of tlie cliff is the scene of the final discomfiture of the American assault in 1775. It is named Sault au Matelot, to commemorate the leap of a dog from the cliff above, near the Grand Battery. Leadenhall St. leads off on the r. to the great piers of Pointe a Garcy and to the imposing classic building of the * Custom-House, which is at the confluence of the St. Lawrence and St, Charles Rivers. St. Paul St. runs W. from near the end of St. Peter St., along the narrow strip between the St. Charles and the northern cliffs, and passes the roads ascending to the Hope and Palace Gates. The QueeiCs Fuel-Yard {\. side) is beyond the Palace Market, and occupies the site of an immense range of buildings erected by M. Begon, one of the later Royal In- tendants of New France. Here also lived Bigot in all the feudal splendor of the old French noblesse, on the revenues which ho extorted from the oppressed Province. In 1775 the palace was captured by Arnold's Virginia riHemen, wlio so greatly an- noyed the garri.son that the buildings were set uu lire and consumed by shells from the batteries of the Upper Towu. ? 272 Route GS. QUEBEC. I ' :Hf . i St. Poal St. is prolonged by Bt. Joseph St., the main thoroughfare of this quarter, and the boundary between the Jaques Cartier and St. Koch Wards. The hitter is occupied chiefly by manufactories and shipyards (on the ehorcs of the St. Charles): and the narrow and plank-paved streets of Jaques Cartier, toward the northern -walls, are filled with quaint littlo houses and interesting genre views about the homes of the French-Canadian artisans. St. Eoch's Church is a ver}' spacious building, with broad in- terior galleries, and contains several religious paintings. The Convent of Notre Dame is opposite St. Eoch's, and has 70 nuns (black costume), who teach 725 children. The * Marine HosT>ital is a large and imposing modern building, in Ionic architecture, situated in a park of six acres on the banks of the St. Charles River. The General Hospital and the monastery of Notre Dame des Anges form an extensive pile of buildings, on St. Ours St., near the St. Charles. They were founded by De Vallier, second bishop of Quebec (in 1G93), for invalids and incurables. He spent 100,000 crowns in this ■work, erecting the finest building in Canada (at that time). It is now conducted by a superior and 45 nuns of St. Augustine. The convent- church of Notre Dame des Anges has 14 paintings by Legare, with an Assumption (over the high altar) dating from 1671. Pointe aux Lievres, or Hare Point, is beyond the General Hospital, on the mead- ows of the St. Charles. It is supposed to be the place where the pious Franciscan monks founded the first mission in Canada. Jaques Cartier's winter-quarters ia 1536 were here, and on leaving tills point he carried off the Indian king, Donnacona, ■who was afterwards baptized with great pomp in the magnificent cathedral of Rouen. On this ground, also, the army of Montcalm tried to rally after the disas- trous battle on the Plains of Abraham. The suburb of the Banlieue lies beyond St. Ours St., and is occupied by the homes of the lower classes, with the heights toward St. Foy rising on the S. St. Sauveur^s Church is the only fine building in this quarter. In May, 1535, Jaques Cartier witli his patrician officers and hardy sailors attended high mass and received tlic bishop's blessing in the Cathedral of St. Malo, and then departed across the unknown western seas. The largest of his vessels was of only 120 tons' burden, yet the fleet crossed the ocean safely, and ascended the broad St. Law- rence. Having passed the dark Hagucna; lilfs and the vine-laden shores of the Islo of Orleans, he entered a broad basin w..ere " a mighty promontory, rugged and bare, thrust its scarped front into the raging current. Here, clothed in the majesty of solitude, breathing the stern poetry of the wilderness, rose the cliffs now rich with heroic memories, where the fiery Count Frontenac cast defiance at his foes, where Wolfe, Montcalm, and Montgomery fell. As yet all was a nameless barbar- ism, and a cluster of wigwams lield the site of the rock-built city of Quebec. Its name was Stadaconi-, and it owned the sway of the royal Donnacona." It is held as an old tradition that when Cariier's Norman sailors first saw tho promontory of Cape Diamond, they shouted " Quelhec .' " (" What a beak ! ") which by a natural elision has been changed to Quebec. Others claim that they named the place in lovingmemory of Caudebec, on the Seine, to which its natural features bear a mngnifled resemblance. But the more likely origin of the name is from the Indian word kebec, signifying a strait, and applied to the comparative narrowing of the river above the Basin. It is, however, held in support of the Norman origin of the name that the seal of William de la Pole, Earl of Suffolk in tho loth century, bears the title of Lord of Quebec. This noble had large domains in France, and w.-is the vic- tor at Crcvant and Compeigne, aud the conqueror uf Joan of Arc, but woii impeached i«a /■a »*-• M QUEBEC. Route GS. 273 in K^ and put to death (as narrated by Shakespeare, King Henry VT , Part II., Act IV., Scene 1) for losing the English provinces iu France after B^i arduous caniiwiigns. When Cartier went to Montreal his men built a fort and prepared winter-quarters near the St. (Jharles River, Soon after his return an iutenso cold set in, and nearly every man in the tieet was stricken down with the scurvy, of which many died in great suffering. In the springtime, Cartier planted the cross and Heur-de-lis on the site of Quebec, and returned to France, carrying King Donnacona and several of his chiefs as prisoners. These Indians were soon afterwards received into the Catholic Cliurch, with much pomp and ceremony, and died within a year, ia Franco. In 1541 Carf'er returned with 5 vessels and erected forts at Cap Rouge, but the Indian<: were suspicious, and the colony was soon abandoned. Soon after- wards Roberval, the Viceroy of New France, founded another colony on the same site, but after a long and miserable winter it also was broken up. In the year 1608 the city of (iuebec was founded by the noble Champlain,! who erected a fort here, and laid the foundations of Canada. A party of Franciscan monks arrived in 1015, and the Jesuits came in 1644. In 1628 Sir David Kirke vainly attacked the place with a small English fleet, but in 1629 he was more suc- cessful, and, alter a long blockade, made himself master of Quebec. It was restored to Oanco in 1632 ; and in 1635 Governor Champlain died, and was buried in the Lower Town. Champlain's successor wa?. Charles de Montmagny, a brave and de- vout Knijrht of Malta, on whom the Iroquois bestowed tlie name of Onontio (" Great Mountain ''). The work of founding new settlements and of proselyting the llurons and combating the Iroquois was continued for the next century from the rock of Quebec. After the king had erected his military colonies along the St. Lawrence, he found that another element was necessary in order to make them permanent and progres- sive. Therefore, between 1665 and 1673 he sent to Quebec 1,000 girls, most of whom were of the French peasantry ; though the Intendant, mindful of the tastes of his officers, demanded and received a consignment of young ladies (" dettioiselles bien choisies'-). These cargoes included a wide variety, from Parisian vagrants to Nor- man ladies, and were maliciously styled by one of the chief nuns, " mixed goods " (une marchandise vieUe). The government provided them with dowries ; bachelors were excluded by law from trading, fishing, and hunting, and were distinguished by " marks of infamy "; and the French Crown gave bounties for children (each inhab- itant who had 10 children being entitled to a pension of from 400 to 800 livres). About the year 1664 the city indulged in extraordinary festivities on the occasion of the arrival of the bones of St. Flavien and St. Felicity, which the Pope had pre- sented to the cathedral of Quebec. These honored relics were borne in solemn pro- cession through the streets, amid the sounds of martial music and the roaring of saluting batteries, and were escorted by the Marquis de Tracy, the Intendant Talon, and the valiant Courcclles, behind wh im marched the royal guards and the famous Savoyard regiment of Carignan-Salieres, veterans of the Turkish campaigns. The diocese of Quebec was founded in 1674, and endowed with the revenues of the ancient abbeys of Maubec and Benevent. In the same ship with Bishop Laval came Father Hennepin, who explored the Mississippi from the Falls of St. Anthony to the Gulf of Mexico, and the fearless explorer La Salle. In 1672 the Count de Frontenac was sent here as Governor,and in 1690 he bravely repulsed an attack by Sir Wm. Phipps's fleet (from Boston), inflicting severe damage by a cannonade from the fort. Besides many men , the assailants lost their admiral's standiird and several ships. In 1711 Sir Ilovenden Walker sjiiled from Boston against Quebec, but ho lost in one day eight vessels and 884 men by shipwreck on the terrible reefs of the Egg Islands. Strong fortifications were built soon after ; and in 1759 Gen. Wolfe came up the river with 8,000 British soldiers. The Marquis de Bloutcalm was then Governor, and he moved the French army into fortified lines on Beauport Plains, whore ho defeated the British in a sanguinary action. On tho night of Sept. 12, Wolfe's army drifted up stream on tho rising tide, and succeeded in scaling the stoop cliffs beyond the city. They were fired upon by the French outposts ; but before Montcalm could bring his forces across the St. Charles the Brit- * Champlain was born of a good family in the province of Sa ntonge, in 1570 Tie became a naval olHcer, nml was afterward uttarhod to the person of King Henri IV. In l(i03 lie cx- filnrcfl tlio St. J^nwrence River up to the St. Louis Rapiils, and afterward (until his death In liU) he explored the country from Nantucket to the head waters of the Ottawa. Ho was a brave, merciful, and zealous chief, and held that " the salvation of one soul is of more im- nortanec than the foundinf; of a new empire.' lie established strong missious among tlie lluruus, fought the Iroquois, and founded Quebec. 12* a *■ > •". F^ T 274 Route OS. QUEBEC. iBh lines were fonned upon the Plains of Abraham ; and in the short but desperate battle which ensued both the generals were mortally '"ounded. The English lost 664 men, and the French lost 1,500. The French army, which was largely composed of provincial levies (with the regiments of La Guienne, Royal Roussilon, Beam, La Sarre,and Languedoc), gave way, and retreated across the St. Charles, and a few days later the city surrendered. In April, 1760, the Chevalier de Levis (of that Levis family — Dukes of Ventadour — which claimed to possess records of their lineal descent from the patriarch Levi) led the reorganised French army to St. Foy, near Quebec. Gen. Murray, hoping to surprise Levis, a*ivanced( with 3,000 men) from his fine position on the Plains of Abraham ; but tiie French were vigilant, and Murray was defeated and hurled back within the city gates, having lost 1,000 men and 20 cannon. Levis now laid close Biege to the city, and battered the walls (and especially St. John's Gate) from three heavy field-works. Quebec answered with an almost incessant cannonade from 132 guns, until Commodore Swanton came up the river with a fleet from England. The British supremacy in Canada was soon afterwards assured by the Treaty of Paris, and Voltaire congratulated Louis XV. on being rid of" 1,500 leagues of frozen coun- try." The memorable words of Gov. Shirley before the Massachusetts Legislature (June 28, 1746)," Canada est delenda,''^ were at last verified, but the campaigns had cost the British Government $400,000,000, and resulted in the loss of the richest of England's colonics. For the attempted taxation of the Americans, which resulted in the War of Independence, was planned in order to cover the deficit caused in the British Treasury by the Canadian campaigns. In the winterof 1775-6 the Americans besieged the city, then commanded by Gen. Guy Carleton (after* nrds made Lord Dorchester). The provisions of the besiegers began to fail, their re.^imcnts were being depleted by sickness, and their light guns made but little impression on the massive city walls ; so an as.sault was ordered and conducted before dawn on Dec. 31, 1775. In the midst of a heavy snow-storm Arnold advanced through the Lower Town from his quarters near the St. Charles River, and led his 800 New-Englanders and Virginians over two or three barricades. The Mon- treal Bank and several other massive stone houses were filled with British regulars, who guarded the approaches with such a deadly fire that Arnold's men were forced to take refuge in the adjoining houses, while Arnold himself was badly wounded and carried to the rear. Meanwhile Montgomery was leading his New-Yorkers and Con- tinentals N. along Chauiplain St. by the river-side. The intention was for the two attacking columns, after driving the enemy f^-om the Lower Town, to unite before the Prescott Gate and carry it by storm. A strong barricade was stretched across Champlain St. from the cliff to the river ; but when its guards saw the great masses of the attacking column advancing through the twilight, they fled. In all proba- bility Montgomery would have crossed the barricade, delivered Arnold's men by at- tacking the enem in the rear, and then, with 1,500 men flushed witli victory, would have escaladed the Prescott Gate and won Quebec and Canada, — but that one of the fleeing Canadians, impelled by a strange caprice, turned quickly back, and fired the cannon which stood loaded on the barricade. Montgomery and many of his oflicers and men were stricken down by the shot, and the column broke up in panic, and fled. The British forces were now concentrated on Arnold's men, who were hemmed in by a sortie from the Palace Gate, and 426 officers and men were made prisoners. A painted board has been hung high up on the cliff over the place in Champlain St. where Montgomery fell. Montgomery was an officer in Wolfe's army when Quebec was taken from the French 15 years before, and knew the ground. His mistake was in heading the forlorn hope. Quebec was the capital of Canada from 1760 to 1791, and after that it served as a semi-capital, until the found- ing of Ottawa City. In 1845, 2,900 houses were burnt, and the place was nearly destroyed, but soon revived with the aid of the great lumber-trade, which is still its specialty. In September, 1874, Quebec was filled with prelates, priests, and enthusiastic people, and the second centennial of the foundation of the diocese was celebrated with great pomp. Nine triumphal arches, in Latin, Byzantine, Romanesque, Classic, and Gothic architecture, were erected over the streets of the Upper Town, and dedi- cated to the metropolitan dioceses of North America ; an imposing procession passed under them and into the Cathedral, which was endowed on that day with the name and privileges of a basilica; and at evening the city was illuminated, at a cost of $30,000. In the pageant was borne the ancient flag of Ticonderoga {Le Drapeau de Carillon), which floated over Montcalm's victorious army when he defeated Ab«r- i T but desperate } English lost fely composed in, Beam, La es, and a few of Ventndour ilriarch Levi) ray, hoping to the Plains of hurled back ow laid close ') from three ade from 132 ngland. The eaty of Paris, f frozen coun- 8 Legislature impaigns had the richest of hich resulted caused in the mded by Gen. the besiegers ;ir light guns I ordered and storm Arnold les River, and 8. The Mon- tish regulars, 1 were forced wounded and ters and Con- s for the two • unite before etched across great masses In all proba- 's men by at- ictory, would that one of ck, and fired many of his broke up in I's men, who id men were ;lilT over the :er in Wolfe's id knew the le capital of til the found- e was nearly ch is still its enthusiastic IS celebrated ique, Classic, n, and dcdi- pssion passed ::h the name at a cost of Drapemi de fc>ated Aber- \ QUEBEC. Route GS. 275 crombio on Lake Champlain (July 8, 1758), and is now one of the most esteemed trophies of Quebec. The annals of the Church contain no grander chapter than that which records the career of the Canadian Jesuits. Unuruied and alone, they passed forth from Quebec and Montreal, and traversed all the wide regiou between L:ibrador and tho remote West, bravely meeting death in its most lingering and horrible forms at the hands of the vindictive savages whom they came to bless. Their achievements and their fate filled the world with amazement. Even Puritan New England, proudly and sternly jealous of her religious liberty, received their envoy with honors; Boston, Plymouth, and Salem alike became his gracious hosts; and the Apostle Eliot entertained him at his lloxbury parsonage, and urged him to remain. " To the Jesuits the atmosphere of Quebec was wellnigh celestial. 'In the cli- mate of New France,' they write, ' one learns perfectly to seek only one God, to have no desire but God, no purpose but for God.' And again: 'To live in New France is in truth to live in the bosom of God.' ' If,' adds Le Jeune, 'any one of tliose who die iu this country goes to perdition, I think he will be doubly guilty.' " " Meanwhile from Old France to New came succors and reinforcements to the missions of the forest. More .Jesuits cro.ssed the sea to urge on the work of conver- sion. These were no stern exiles, seeking on barbarous shores an asylum for a per- secuted faith. Rank, wealth, power, and royalty itself smilei on their enterprise, and bade them God-speed. Yet, withal, a fervor more intense, a self-abnegation more complete, a self-devotion more constant and enduring, will scarcely find its record on the pages of human history It was her nobler and purer part that gave life to the early nussions of New France. That gloomy wilderness, those hordes of savages, had nothing to tempt the ambitious, the proud, the grasping, or the indolent. Obscure toil, solitude, privation, hardship, and death were to be the missionary's portion " The Jesuits had borne all that the human frame seems capable of bearing. They had escaped as by miracle from torture and death. Did their zeal flag or their courage fail ? A fervor intense and unquenchable urged them on to more distant and more deadly ventures. The beings, so near to mortal sympathies, so human, yet .so divine, in whom their faith impersonated and dramatized the great principles of Christian faith, — virgins, saints, and angels, — hovered over them, and held be- fore their raptured sight crowns of glory and garlands of immortal bliss. They burned to do, to sulfer, and to die ; and now, from out a living martyrdom, they turned their heroic gaze towards an horizon dark with perils yet more appalling, and gaw in hope the day when they should bear the cross into the blood-stained dens of the Iroquois. In 1(U7, when the powerful and bloodthirsty Iroquois were sweeping over Can- ada in all directions, the Superior of the Jesuits wrote: " Do not imagine that the rage of the Iroquois, and the loss of many Christians and many catechumens, can bring to naught the mystery of the cross of Jesus Christ and the efficacy of his blood. We shall die ; we shall be captured, burned, butchered: be it so. Those who die in their beds do not always die the best death. I see none of our company cast down. On the contrary, they ask leave to go up to the Ilurons, and some of tliem protest that the fires of the Iroquois are one of their motives for the journey." " The iron Brebeuf, the gentle Gamier, the all-enduring Jogues, the enthusiastic Chaumonot, Lalemant, Le Mercier, Chatelain, Daniel, Pijart, Rogueneau, Du Peron, Poncet, Le Moyne, — one and all bore themselves with a tranquil boldness, whicli amazed the Indians and enforced their respect When we look for the result of tiiese missions, we soon become aware that the influence of the French and tho Jesuits extended far beyond the circle of converts. It eventually modified and softened the manners of many unconverted tribes. In the wars of the next century we do not often find those examples of diabolic atrocity with which the earlier an- nals are crowded. The savage burned his enemies alive, it is true, but he seldom ate them ; neither did he torment them with the same deliberation and persistency. He was a savage still, but not so often a devil." (Parkman.) The traveller who wishes to study more closely this sublime episode in the New- World history may consult the brilliant and picturesque historical narratives of Mr. Francis Parkman : " The Jesuits of North America," " Tho Pioneers of France ia the New ^Vorld," and " The Discovery of tho Great West." 27G Jtmtte GO. BEAUFORT. T ll-!!;';' 69. The Environs of Quebec. This district is famed for its beauty, and is filled with objerts of interest to the tourist. The suburban villages can be visited by i)edestrian tours ; liut in that case it is best to cut olf connnuuicatiun with the city, and to sweep around on the great curve which includes the chief points of attraction. The village inns furnish poor accommodations. Sucli a walking tour .sliould be taken only after a season of dry weather, else the roads will be found very muddy. But all the world goes about in carriages litre, and a caliche and driver ran be liired af very low rates (sec page 255). The drivers' statements of distances can seldom bo relied on, for they gen- erally err on the side of expansion. "I don't know whetlier I cared more for Quebec or the beautiful little Tillages in the country all about it. The whole landscape looks just like a dream of ' Evan- geline.' .... But if we are coming to the grand and beautiful, wliy, there is no direction in which you an look about Quebec without seeing it ; and it is always mixed up with somi'thing so famiiiar and homelike that my heart warms to it." (lIowELLs's A Chance Acc/uaintance.) ** The Falls of Montmorenci are 7 M. from the Dorchester Bridge, which is about 1 M. from the Upper-Town Market Square. The route usually taken leads down Palace St. and by the Queen's Fuel- Yard (see page 271) and St. Roch's Church. As the bridge is being crossed, the Marhie Hoi^pital is seen on the 1., and on the r. are the shipyards of St. Roch's Ward and the suburb of St. Charles. The road is broad and firm, and leads across a fertile plain, with fine retrospective views. The Beau- part Lu:iatic Asylum is soon reached, near \>incli is the villa of Glenalla. The asylum formerly consisted of two large buildings, one for each sex; but the female department was destroyed by fire in Januarj'-, 1875, and several of its inmates were burnt with it. Beauport is 3^-5 M. from Quebec, and is a long-drawn-out village of 1,300 inhabitants, with a tall and stately church whoso twin spires are seen from a great distance. There are several flour and barley mills in the parish, and a considerable lumber business is done. The seigniory was founded in 1634 by the Sieur Gifiard, and along its plains was some of the heaviest fighting of the war of the Conquest of Canada. It is " in that part of Canada which waa the first to be settled, and where the face of the country and the people have undergone the least change from the beginning, where the influence of the States and of Europe is least felt, and the inhabitants see little or nothing of the world over the walls of Quebec." The road from Quebec to St. Joachim is lined by a continuous succession of the quaint and solid little Cana- dian houses of whitewashed stone, placed at an angle with the street in order to, face the south. The farms are consequently remarkably narrow (sometimes but a few yards wide and J M. long), and the country is bristling with fences. In 1G64 the French king forbade that the colonists should make any more clearings, " except one next to another" ; but in 1745 he was obligetl to order that their farms should bo not less than IJ arpents wide. These narrow domains arose from the social char- acter of the people, who were thus brought close together ; from their need of cca- centration as a defence against the Indians ; and from the subdivision of esfcites by inheritance. The Latin Catholicism of the villagers is shown by roadside crosses rising here and there along the way. So late as 1827 Montmorenci County (which is nearly as large as Massachusetts) had but 5 shops, 30 artisans, 2 schools, 5 churches (all Catholic), and 5 vessels (with an aggregate of 59 tons). There has been but little change since. In 1861, out of 11,136 inhabitants in the county, 10,708 were of French origin, of whom but a few score understand the English language. % 19 A' terost to the but in that ouud on tlio inns furnish !• n season of tl Roes about tes (sec page )r they geu- Ic villapes in n of ♦ Evan- there is no I it is always irnis to it." :er Bridj^e, The route -Yanl (see •osRcd, the iirds of St. I and firm, The Benu- r Glenalhi. each sex; 1875, and 5 M. from witli a tall distance, nsiderable the Sieur of the war ere the face beginning, ibitants see 1 Quebec to Httle Cana- in order to. imcs but a s. In 1GG4 ;s, " except rnis should 5ocial cliar- ;;ed of cca- estiitcs by iide crosses sachusctts) ^ssels (with 861, out of D but a few MONTMORENCI FALLS. Route GO. 277 M. Ramcau ("La France aux Colonies''^) has prore,(l00 iaiiiibitants. Tlioy received the .Fesuit mi.isionaries gladly, and were speedily converted to Chris- tianity. Many of them wore their hair in bristling ridges, whence certain aston- ished Frenchmen, on first seeing them, exclaimed" Qiielles hurex.' " (" What hilars' heads! ") and the name of Huron supplanted their proper title of Ouendat or Wynn- dot. The Iroquois, or Five Nations (of New York), were their mortal foes, and after many years of most barbarous warfare, succeeded in storming the Christian Huron towns of St. Jo.scph, St. Ignace, and St. Louis. The nation was annihilated : a few of its people fled to the far West, and are now known as the WyandotJi ; multitudes were made slaves among the Iroquois villages ; 10,00() were killed in battle or in the subjugated towns ; and the mournful remnant fled to Quebec. Hundreds of them were swept away from the Isle of Orleans by a during Iroquois raid ; the survivors encamped under the guns of the fort for 10 years, then moved to 8t. Foy ; and, about the year 1673, this feeble fragment of the great Huron nation settled at Anciennn Lorette. It was under the care of the Jesuit Chaumonot, who, while a mere boy, had stolen a small sum of money and fled from France into Lombardy. In filth and poverty he begged his way to Ancona, and thence to Loretto, where, at the Holy Ilouse, he had an angelic vision. He went to Rome, became a Jesuit, and experi- enced another miracle from Loretto ; after which he passed to the Huron mission in Canada, where he was delivered from martyrdom by the aid of St. Michael. Ho erected at Ancieune Lorette a chapel in exact fac-simlle of the IL.ly House at Lo- retto ; and here he claimed that many miracles were performed. In 1697 tho Ilurons moved to New Loretto, "a wild spot, covered with the primitive forest, and seamed by a deep and tortuous ravine, where the St. Charles foams, white as a snow-drift, over tho black ledges, and where the sunshine struggles through matted boughs of the pine and the tir, to bask for brief moments on tho mossy rocks or flash on the hurrying waters. On a plateau beside the torrent, another chapel was built to Our Lady, and another Huron town sprang up ; and here to this day, tho tourist finds the remnant of a lost people, harmless weavers of baskets and sewers of moccasons, the Huron blood fast bleaching out of them, as, with every generation, they mingle and fade away in the French population around." (Parkman. ) Visitors to Lorette are recommended to return to Quebec by anrther road from that on which they went out. Ancienne Lorette may be reached from this point, and so may tho lakes of Beauport and St, Charles, li days' journey to the N. is Lac Rond, famous for its fine hunting and fi.shing. Charlesbourg (Huot's boarding-house) is 4 M. from Quebec, on a far- viewing ridge, and is clustered about a venerable convent and old church (with copies of the Last Communion of St. Jerome and the Sistine Ma- donna over its altars). It is the chef-lieu of the seigniory of Notre Dame des Anges, and its products are lumber and oats. To this point (then known as Bourg Royal) retired the Inhabitants of the Isle of OrJsans, in 1759, when ordered by Montcalm to fall back before the British. They were 2,500 in number, and were led by their cur^s. Pleasant roads lead from Charlesbourg to Lorette, Lake St. Charles, Lake Beauport, and Cha- teau Bigot. Lake St. Charles is 11 M. from Quebec, and 6 M. from Lorette. It is 4 M. long, and its waters are very clear and deep. The red trout of this lake are of delicate flavor. There is a remarkable echo from the shores. " On arriving at the vicinity of the lake, the spectator is delighted by the beauty and picturesque wildness of its banks Trees grow immediately on the borders of the water, which is indented by several points advancing into it, and forming lit- tle bays. The lofty hills which suddenly rise towards the N., in shapes singular and diversified, are overlooked by mouutains which exalt, beyond them, their more distant summits." (Heriot.) I j, f ,11' 280 Jtoute CD. CHATEAU BIGOT. 'll H! ^ \:\ Ch&teau Bigot is about 7 M. from Quebec, by way of Chnrlcsbourg, where the traveller turns to the r. around the churcli, and rides for 2 M. along a ridge which alTords channing views of the city on the r. '• It is a lovely road out to Chilteau Bigot. First you drive througli the ancient suburbs of the Lower Town, and then you mount the smooth, hard high- way, between pretty country-houses, towards the village of Charlesbourg, while Quebec shows, to your casual backward glance, like n wondrous painted scene, with the spires and lofty roofs of the Upper Town, and the long, irregular wall wandering on the verge of theclifl'; then the thronging gables and chimneys of St. lioch, and again many spires and convent walls." The ruins of the Chateau are only reached after driving for some distance through a narrow wheel-track, half overgrown with foliage. There remain the gables and division-wall, in thick masonry, with a deep cellar, outside of which are heaps of d(5bri3, over which grow alders and lilacs. The ruins are in a cleared space over a little brook where trout are found ; and over it is the low and forest-covered ridge of La Montague dea Ormea. This land was in the Piefrh la Triniti, which was granted about tho year 1640 to M. Denis, of La Kochcllo. Tlio cliltcau was built for liis feudal mansion by the Koyal Intendant Talon, Baron des Islets, and was afterwards occupied by tho last Koyal Intendant, M. Bigot, a dinsolute and licentious Frencii satrap, wlio stole $2,000,000 from the treasury. The legend tells that Bigot used this building for a hunting-lodge and place of revels, and that once, wlillc pursuing a bear among the hills, he got lost, and was guided back tu tlio chtlteau by a lovely Algonquin maiden whom he had met in the forest. 81ie remained in tiiis building for a long time, in a luxurious boudoir, and was visited frequently b^ tl:e Intendant; but one niglit she was assassinated by some unlinown prson, — citlier M. Higot's wife, or lier own niotlier, avenging the dishonor to lier tribe (see " Chfiteau Bigot," by J. M. LeMoino, fiold at the Quebec bookstores for 10c. ; also Uowells's A Chance Acquaintance, Chap. XII.). Sillery (or St. Colomb) is 3 M. from Quebec, by the Grand Allde and the Cap-Rouge Road (sec page 270). After passing Wolfe's Monument, the road leads across the Plains of Abraham, on which were fought the sanguinary battles of 1759 and 1760. Sillery is a parish of 3,000 inhab- itants, on whose river front are 17 coves, where most of the lumber of Quebec is guarded. The Convent of Jesus-Maria is a new building of great size and imposing architecture; opposite whi».h is the handsome Gothic school house which was given to this parish by Bishop [Mountain. In the vicinityof Sillery are several fine villas, amid ornamental grounds: March- montj once the home of Sir John Harvey and Bishop Stewart; Spencer Wood, "the most beautiful domain of Sillerj', or, it can be said, of Canada," with a park of 80 acres, formerly the home of the Earl of Elgin and other Canadian governors; Woodfekl, founded by the Bishop of Samos injiarti- bus infidehu.n; Spencer G ranye, whero lives J. M. LcMoine, the author and antiquarian; Bardfeld, Bishop Mountain's former home; Cataracouy, where the British princes, Albert Edward and Alfred, sojourned; Benmore, Col. Rhodes's estate ; and several others. The beautiful cemetery of Mount \ w Imrlosbourg, Ics for 2 M. r. •' It is a tlic nnciont liard liigh- larlcsbourp, a •wondrous wii, and tlio »c tIirongin;r ind convent ing forsonio iiigc. Tlicro deep cellar, ' and nines. trout aro fontagne des year 1640 to mfion by tlie d by tlie last ip, who stole luilding for a ar ninong the nquin maiden loug time, in 'Ut one night ft', or Iier own . M. LeMoino, icquaintance, i Alldo and Monument, fought the ,000 inhab- lumber of ing of great ome Gothic lin. In the ds : March- •t; Spencer f Canada," ti and other OS injyarti- the author ^ataracouy^ \ Benmore, y of Mount r CAP ROUGE. Iloute CD. 281 i Ilcrmnn, which was la. 1 ou' by Major Douglas, tho planner of GrponwooJ Cemetery, is in this vi:;inity an ■' 1 ^ m. .1 288 Haute 71. THE ISLE OP ORLEANS. had just mnrchod do^\'n the Isle of Orleans, through St. Pierre and St. Fnmillo. They were engaged in the streets by armed villagers, and had a sharp ekirnush hefore the Canadians were driven into the forest, after which thr Scottish soldiers fortified themselves in the priest's house, near the church. The site of the seminary was occupied before IGTU by Bishop Laval, who founded here a rural seminary in which tl>e youth of the peasantry were instructed. They Avere well grounded in the doctrine and discipline of the Church, and were in- Eitructed in the mechanic arts and in various branches of farming. This was the first " agricultural college " in America. The broad seigniory of the Cote de Beaupr^, which lies between St. Joachim and Beauport, was then an appanage of Bishop Laval, and was more populous than Quebec itself. "Above the vast meadows of the parish of St. Joachim, that here border the St. Lawrence, there rises lilce an island a low flat Iiill, hedged round with forests, like the tonsured head of a monk. It was here that Laval planted his school. Across the meadows, a mile or more dis- tant, towers the mountain promontory of Cape Tourniente. You may climb its woody steeps, and from the top, waist-dee in blueberry-bushes, survey, from Kamouraska to Quebec, the grand Canadian world outstretched below ; or mount the neighboring heights of St. Anne, where, athwart the gaunt arms of ancient pines, the river lies shimmering in summer haze, the cottages of the habitants aro strung like beads of a rosary along the meadows of Beaupr^, the shores of Orleans bask in warm light, and far on the horizon the rock of Quebec rests like a faint gray cloud ; or traverse the forest till the roar of the torrent guides you to the rocky sol- itude where it holds its savage revels Game on the river ; trout in lakes, brooks, and pools ; wild fruits and flowers on the meadows and mountains ; a thou- sand resources of honest and healthful recreation here wait the student emancipated from books, but not parted lor a moment from the pious influence that hangs about the old walls c bosomed in the wood.s of St. Joachim. Around on plains and hills stand the dwell, gs of a peaceful peasantry, as dilTcrent from the restless population of the neighboring S i:ates as the denizens of some Norman or Breton village. ' ' ( Pakk- MAM.) 7L The Isle of Orleans. Steam ferry-boats leave Quebec three times daily for the Isle of Orleans. The trip gives beautiful views of the city and its marine environs, and of the Mont- morenci Falls and the St. Anne Mts. The island is traversed by two roads. The N. shore road passes from West Point to St. Pierre, in 5 M. ; St. Famille, 14 M. , and St. Fran^jois, 20 M. The S. shore road runs from West Point to Patrick's Hole, in 6 M. ; St. Laurent, 7;^ ; St. John, 13^ ; St. Francois, 21. A transverse road crosses the island from St. Laurent to St. Pierre. The Isle of Orleans is about 3 J M. from Quebec, and contains 70 square miles (47,923 acres) of land, being 20 M. long and 6i M. wide. The beau- tiful situation of the island, in the broad St. Lawrence, its picturesque heights and umbrageous groves, its quaint little hamlets and peaceful and primitive people, vender Orleans one of the most interesting districts of the Lower Province, and justify its title of "the Garden of Canada." The island was called Minigo by the Indians, a large tribe of whom lived hero and carried on the fisheries, providing also a place of retreat for the mainland tribes in case of invasion. In 1535 Cartier explored these shores and the hills and forests beyond, being warmly welcomed by the resident Indians and feasted with fish, houey, and melons. He speaks of the noble forests, and adds: " Wo found there great grape-vines, such as we had not seen before in all tho world ; and for that we named it the Isle of Bacchus." A year later it received the name of the Isle of Orleans, in honor of De Valois, Duke of Orleans, the son of Fra.ncis I. of France. The popular uame was Vlsle des Sorciers (Wizards' Island), cither on account of the marvellous skill of the natives in foretelling future storms and nautical events, or else because the superstitious colonists on the mainland were alarmed at the nightly movements of lights along the insular shores, and attributed to demons and wizards the dancing fires which were carried by the Indians in visiting their fish- nets during the night-tides. ST. PIERRE D'ORLEANS. Route 71. 289 ind St. Fnmillo. sharp ekirniish Scottish soldiers al, who founded structed. They h, and were in- This was the Cotede Beaupr6, anage of Bishop irast meadows of ere rises like an head of a monk, mile or more dis- >u may climb its es, survey, from )elow ; or mount arms of ancient the habitants arc shores of Orleans 3 like a faint gray 1 to the rocky sol- ; trout in lakes, tuntains ; a thou- dent emancipated that hangs about 1 plains and hills estless population village." (Pauk- I of Orleans. The and of the Mont- s from "West Point M. The S. shore ent, 1^ ; St. John, St. Laurent to St. ntains 70 square ride. The beau- its picturesque ind peaceful and ting districts of )f Canada." f whom lived hero he mainland tribes he hills and forests feasted with fish, " Wc found there \ ; and for that we lame of the Tsle of B,nci3 I. of France, her on account of ad nautical events, re alarmed at the ited to demons and visiting their fish- The island was granted in 1G20 to the Sieur deC^en by the Duke de MontmorencI, Viceroy of Now France. In lt>7r> this district was formed into the Earldom of St. Liinrent, and was conferred on M. Hertlielot, wlio assumed the title of tlio Ooiint of St. Lawiriicc. In 16.")1 the N. part was occupied by G(JO Chrl.stian lliiroii.s, wliohad taken refuge under the walls of (Quebec from the exterminating Iroquois. In 1056 tlie Iroquois demanded that they should come and dwell in their country, and upon their refusal fell upon the Ilurons with a force of 300 warriors, devastated the island, and killed 72 of the unfortunate Christians. Two tribes were compelled soon after to surrender and be led as captives into the Iroquois country, wliile the Tribe of the Cord left the island and settled at Lorette. The Isle was overrun by Iroquois in liilil, and in an action with them at Ilivierc Maheu, De Lauzon, Seneschal of New France, and all his guards were killed, preferring to die fighting than to surrender and be tortured. The great cross of Argentenay was carried away and raised in tri- umph at the Iroquois village on Lake Onondaga (New York). For nearly a century the Isle enjoyed peace and prosperity, until it had 2,000 in- habitants with 5,000 cattle and rich and nroductive farms. Then came the advance of Wolfe's fleet ; the inhabitants all flea to Charlesbourg ; the unavailing French troops and artillery left these shores ; Wolfe's troops landed at St. Laurent, and erected camps, forts, and hospitals on the S E. point ; and soon afterward tlie Brit- ish forces systematically ravaged the deserted country, burning nearly every house on the Isle, and destroying the orchards. The Isle is now divided into two seigniories, or lordships, whose revenues and titles are vested in ancient French families of Quebec. The soil is rich and di- versified, and its pretty vistas ju-stifyCharlevox's sketch (of 1720): " We took a stroll on the Isle of Orleans, whose cultivated fields extend around like a broad am- phitheatre, and gracefully end the view on every side. I have found tliis country beautiful, the soil good, and the inhabitants very mucli at their ease." The agri- cultirai interest is now declining, owing to the antique and unprogressivc ideas of tlie farmers, who confine themselves to small areas and neglect alternation of crops. The farms are celebrated for their excellent potatot's, plums, apples, and for a rare and delicious variety of small cheeses. The people are temperate, generous, and hospitable, and, by reason of their insular position, still preserve the primitive Nornian customs of the early settlers under Champlain and Frontena?. The Isle and the adjacent shore of Beanprehave been called the nursery of Canada, so many have been the emigrants from these swarming hives who have settled in other parts of the Provinces. St. Pierre is the village nearest to Quebec (9 M.), and is reached by ferry-steamers, wiiich also run to Beaulieu. It has about 700 inhabitants, and is beautifully situated nearly opposite the Montniorenci Falls and Ange Gardien. The first chapel was erected here in 1651 by P^re Lale- mant, and was used by the Hurons and French in common. In 1769 the present church of St. Pierre was erected. On this shore, in 1825, were built the colossal timber-ships, the Columbus, 3,700 tons, and the Baron Renfrew, 3,000 tons, the largest vessels that the world had seen up to that time. The convent of St. Famille was founded in 1685, bj"- the Sisters of the Congregation, and since that time the good nuns have educated tlie girls of the village, having generally about 70 in the institution. The nunnery is seen near the church, and was built in 1699, having received additions from time to time as the village increased. Its celhir is divided into nar- row and contracted cells, whose design has been long forgotten. The woodwork of the convent was burned by Wolfe's foragers in 1759, but was restored in 1761, after the Conquest of Canada. The first church of St. Famille was built in 1671, and the present church dates from 1745. The 13 s 290 Route 71. ST. LAURENT D'ORLEANS. a ■: village is nearly opposite Chateau Richer, and commands fine views of the Laurontian Mis. The Parish of St. Frangois includes the domain of the ancient fief of Argentenay, and was formed in 1678. In 1683 the first church was built, and the present church dates from 1736, and was plundered by Wolfe's troops in 1759. The view from the church is vei*y beautiful, and includes the St. Lawrence to the horizon, the white villages of the S. coast, and the isles of Madame, Grosse, and Reaux. On the N. shore, at the end of the island, are the broad meadows of Argentenay, where wild-fowl and other game are sought by the sportsmen of Quebec. This district looks across the N. Channel upon the dark and imposing ridges of the St. Anne Mts. and the peaks of St. FerAY. Ilonrlicr nssortoil, 5n lOCii, that tho shore hotworn Cape Tonrmonto ntul TadnuKflc was iiniuhahitalile, " lieiiif; too lofty, ami all rocky ami esrarfK-d.'' Hut the French f'anadiiuis, lianly and tireless, and lovinj: the St. Lawrence more than the Xornianii love the Seine, liave foimded nnmernus hamlets on the roel<>i of tliis iron siiore. Tho coast hetiveen St. .(oachini and St. Kranc^ois Xavier is as yet iinocenj)ied. " Wo ran aloiiK the l)ases of headlands, 1,(;(K) to l,')(i(l ft. in hei;?ht, wild and dark with loxverin}:; clouds, pray with rain, or touched with a polden transjiarency l)y tho Funshinc, — alternating helt.s of atmospheric elTect, which greatly increased tiieir lieauty. Indeed, all of us who saw the? Lower St. Lawrence for the first time were surprised by the imposing character of its scenery."' (U.ward Taylor.) Beyond Ahattis and the liiph clifis of Cape Maillard the fstcamer passes the populous vilhif^c of St. Fninqois Xavier, extending up the valley of the Bouchard River. On the S. n long line of picturesque islets is passed (see page 254). Beyond Cape Labale the steamer lies to off St. Paul's Bay, whose unique and beaul'ful scenery is seen from the deck. St. Paul's Bay (two small \nu9) is a parish of 4,000 inhabitants, situ- ated amid the grandest scenery of the N. shore. The people are all French, .ind the village is clustered about the church and convent near the CioufTro River. In the vicinity are found iron, plumbago, limestone, garnet-rock, and curious ealine and sulphurous springs. It is claimed that "no parisli oflers so much of interest to the tourist, the poet, or the naturalist." The wild and turbulent streams that sweep down the valley have carried away nil the bridges which have been erected by the people. Passengers who wish to land at thi.s po'nt are transferred from the steamer to a large sail- boat. The vistas up the valleys of the Oouffro and the Moulin Rivera show distant raiifie.s of picturesque blue mountains, with groups of conical Alpine peaks. In 171)1 it is claimed tliat the shores of the bay were shaken by earthquakes for many days, after which one of the peaks to the N. belched forth great volumes of smoke and pissed into the volcanic state, omitting columns of flame through several days. The peaks are bare and white, with sharp precipices near the summit. The valley of the Gouffrc has lieen likened to tho Vale of ('Iwyd, in Wales, and is traversed by a fair road along tlie r. bank of the rapid river. 10 - 12 >L from the bay are the ex- tensive deposits of magnetic iron-ore which were explored by order of Tntendnnt Talon, a century and a half ago. In the upper part of tho valley, K M. from St Paul's Hay, is St. Urlxan, a French Catholic village of about 1,000 inhabitants. ]Jy this route the tri-weekly Royal mail-stages cross to Chicoutimi, on the upper Sagne"- nay (see page 300). St. Plactde (Clairvaux) is also back of St. Paul's Bay, and has 400 inhabitants. " In all the miles of country T had passed over, I had fieen nothing to equal tho exquisite beauty of the Vale of Baie St. Paul. From the hill on which we stood, the whole valley, of many miles in extent, was visible. It was perfectly level, ami covered from end to end with little hamlets, and several churches, with here and there a few small patches of forest Like the Happy Valley of Rassola."!, it was surrounded by the most wild and rugged mountains, which ro.'^c in endless succes- sion one behind the other, stretching away in the distance, till they resembled a faint blue wave in the horizon." (Ballantyne.i " Nothing can be more picturesque than the landscape which may be viewed from the crest of Cap au Corbeau. Have you courage to clamber up the long slopes of Cap au Corbeau ; to see the white-.sailed schooners at the entrance of the bay ; to comprehend the thousand divers objects at your feet ; the sinuous cour-i^e of tho Mar^ and of the serpentine Gouffre ; on the S. the old mansions and rich pas- tures ; to see the church and convent and the village, the Cap X la Rey, tho Lottcr.i of the bay ; and, farther away, the shores of St. Antoine Perou, St. Jerome, itU John, St. Joseph, and St. Flavien ? " (Trudelle.) The Bay was settled early iu the 17th century, and has always been noted for its 1 1 ISLE AUX C0UDRE3. nontc 72. 293 il Tndnusnc tlic French K' Xnrninns sliore. The cl nnd (lark ciiry by the •ciisfd tlioir t time were ler passes illcy of tlie is passed St. Paul's ants, situ- ill French, le CiouflVo rtiet-rock, ' no parish ist." The Tied away liters who liirge sail- low distant ks. In 1791 many days, ' smoke and I days. Th(« lie valley of versed by a are the ex- ' Intendant M. from St )itants. IJy pper Sagiie- ly, and has o equal the II we stood, y level, anil Il here and =elas, it was Hess succes- esembled a 'iewed from B slopes of ;he bay ; to iur.«e of the i rich pas- tlic lottoni lerome, St. loted for its oarthiiuakes and volranlc disturbances. In October, 1870, it felt such a severe shdck tiiat nearly every house in the valley was damaged. In 17iV.t the viJIa^je was de.' cut off by a small party of Canadian!*, and were led prisoners to Quebec, Ad- miral Durell first reached the island, with 10 frigates, and captured 3 French ves- sels l)eariiig 1,800 barrels of powder. The steamer runs S. E. for scvcrnl miles In the narrow channel between the Isle aux Couflrcs and the mountains of the N. Shore. At 11 M. from St. Paul's Hay it rounds in at the pier (920 ft. long) of the parish of Les Eboulements, a farming district of 2.400 inhabitants. "High on the crest of the Laurentides, old as the world, the tourist sees on the N., on landing at the Eboulements pier, the handsome parish-church." The situa- tion of this village is one of the most quaint and charmin , on the river, and overlooks the St. Lawrence for many leagues. The wiiite houses are grouped snugly about the tall X(jtrc Dame Church, above which the dark peak of Mt. Eboulements rises to the height of 2,547 ft. In the vicinity of Les Cboulements are visible the tracks of the great land-slidea of lOfB, in that season when so many marvellous phenomena were seen in Canada. The St. liawrence ran " white a.s milk," as far down r.s Tadonsac ; ranges of hills were thrown down Into the river, or were .swallowed up in the plains ; earthquakes shat- tered the houses and shook theti-ees until the Indians said that the forests were drunk ; vast fissures opened in tlie ground ; and tlie courses of streams were changed. Meteors, fiery-winged serpents, and gliastly 8p<>ctres were seen in the air; roarings and my8t«riou8 voices sounded on every side ; and the confessionals of all the churchcifi were crowded with penitents, awaiting the end of the world. The steamer now rounds the huge mass of Mt. Eboulements, passing the rugged spurs called Goose Cape and Cape Corneille. On the E. Flope is seen the large village of St. Irenee, where 900 French people preserve their ancient customs and language. A few miles farther E. the stoamer round.? in at Murray Bay. Murray Bay is the favorite summer resort of the N, Si\ore, and has fine facilities for boating and bathing, with a long firm beach. It is also one of the best fishing-centres in the Province, and sportsmen meet with success in the waters of the beautiful Murray IJiver, or the Gravel and Petit Lakes. The steamer stops at the long wharf at Point a Pique, near which are the hotels, — Dubcrger's, the Lome, and Warren's. A new hotel, of 300 ft. front, is being built for the summer of 1875. There are also summer cottages about the base of Cap a VAigle. The tourists occupy Point a Pique with their hotels, and make excursions to the lakes and the falls. The French town is at the bridge over the Murray River, and is clustered about the great church and the court-house of Charlevoix County. It has 3,000 inhabitants. •* Of all the picturesque parishes on the shore of our grand river, to which innu- merable swarms of tourists go every summer to take the waters, none will interest the lover of sublime landscapes more than Malbaie. One must go there to enjoy the rugged, the grandeur of nature, the broad horizons. He will not find here the beau- tiful wheat-fields of Kamoura^ika, the pretty and verdurous sliores of Cacouna or Rimouski, where the languorous citizen goes to strengthen his energies during the dog-days ; here is savage and unconquered nature, and view-points yet more majes- tic than those of the coasts and walla of Bic. Precipice on precipice ; impenetrable gorges in the projections of the rocks ; peaks which lose themselves in the clouds, and among which the bears wander through July, in search of berries; where the lUVlICllE DU LOUP. Route 72. 295 but they lohcc. Ati- j'rench ves- 1 between 1 RI. from ish of Les gh on the the N., on The situft- tho river, houses arc h the dark land-Midcs in Canada, of hillH w«>re (uakeHshat- forests were re chanped. Ir; roarings I of all tbo )ass!ng the E. slope is acrve their ner rounds e, and has It is also meet with Jravel and '(l from this point to St. John and Halifax, and the New- Brunswick Railway is being pushed hitherward up the St. John Valley (see page 49). This domain was granted by the Compagnie dcs Indrs Occidentales to the Sieur de la Chesnoye in 1673. It is said that its name is derived from the faot that in former years great droves of seals {loups-marim^) frequented the shoals at the mouth of the river, making a remarkable uproar at night. A p«,rsistent attempt has been made to call this town FraservilU, in honor of the Frasers, who are its seigniors. The numerous Frasers of this Province met at Quebec in 1868 to re-form their ancient Scottish clan organization, and to name Provincial, county, and parish chieftains. The head-chief is entitled The Fraser, and is the Hon. John Fraser dc Berry, " 58th descendant of Jules de Berry, a rich and po\\orful lord, who gave a sumptuous feast to the Emperor Charlemagne and his numerous suite, at his castle in Normandy, in the 8th century " The solemn Scots maintain that De Berry then regaled Charlemagne with strawberries {/raises, in the French language), and that the Emperor was so greatly pleased that he ordered that he should thenceforth be known as Fraiser de Berry, and from him the 'Clan Fraser traces its name and descent. Cacouna is 6 M. from Rividre du Loup, and is the clilef summer resort of Canada. The * St. Lawrence Hall is the most fashionable hotel, and accommodates 600 guests, at $2.50-3 a day. The Mansion Ilotise charges $ 2 a day. There are several summer boarding-houses whose rates are still lower. The traveller who visits Cacouna from Rividre du Loup must be on his guard against the extortions of the carriage-drivers, who fre- quently demand exorbitant fares. Twenty years ago Cacouna was nothing; it is now filled with great ho- tels and boarding-houses, and adorned with many summer cottages. It is visited by thousands of Canadians, and also by many Americans "fuyant le ciel corrosif de New- York." Here may be seen the Anglo-Canadian girls, who are said to combine the physical beauty and strr-ngth of the English ladies with the vivacity and brilliancy of the Americans. Tiio amusements of the village are like those of similar places farther S., — sea-bathing and fishing, driving, and balls which extend into the .small hours. The beach is good, and tlie river-views from the heights are of famed beauty. There is a pretty lake back among the hills, where many trout are found. The great specialties of Cacouna are its pure cool air and brilliant north- ern scenery. It is sometimes found too cold, even in August, during rainy weather, for the American visitors, who then iiurry away in crowds. The peninsula of Cacouna is a remarkable mass of rock, nearly 400 ft. high, which is connected with the mainland by a low isthmus. Its name was given by the Indians, in allusion to its fomi, and signifies "the tur- tle." The village is French, and has 400 inhabitants and 3 churches. 4j M. distant is the populous parish of St.Arsene, and 8 M. S. is St. Modeste. From Riviere du Loup the steamer runs across to the Saguenay River, passing within 3-4 M. of Cacouna, and running between the Brandy Pots (1.) and Red Island (see page 252). The Saguenay Eiver, see Route 73. n md the New- lley (see page 3 to the Sieur ; fart that in at the mouth honor of the vince met at and to name The Fraser, Berry, a rich •lemagne and The solemn rries {/raises, ased that he from him the nmer resort ) hotel, and nise cliarges ie rates are Loup must s, who fre- th great ho- tages. It is ns "fuyant lo-Canadian ngth of the leans. Tho irther S., — the small Ights are of vhere many ^ i i lliant north- just, during r in crowds, early 400 ft. . Its name !S "the tur- 3 churches. \I. S. is St. > enay River, Jrandy Pots » ^ I 'Long. T ^^c.^^» ^ JE Jt ,ctc^ * 10 '^^ s"* (STATtTTS MILS). ■• enojliIsh: ]vj[ile:@ (statute mile) W 15 80 35 30 J I I I I p^V .^«^ 'Pt •'I'T.I "«!^ ^"^wot '!£=?„ *;Kauunir;iska I ooa St.Denl8 ^S»f isNV.'W '^■■'!ff'^■ M Oi- SAI AToullii uUauHe jr-^^'-i" x^r© ^ ' ot' THE '^ (^ . SAGUENAY RIVER jnm/ It' Jit'd :'-^. lir m^'A ISLEVERTE > IS/l^IP, OJ" THAT JP'ABT OF THE Ifllaime tbavehsej) jtr tits SAGUENAY BOATS. 296 How ' ( i ki I nearly (or quH Brunswick lU 49). This domaii de la Chcsnoyi former years ( of the river, n A persistent Frasers, who Quebec in 18< Provincial, co and is the Ht and powerful his numerous Scots maintai: in the Frencl ordered that b Clan Fraser tt Cacouna i of Canada, accommodat $ 2 a day. ' still lower, be on his ga quently dem: Twenty y< tels and boai visited by th le ciel corro girls, who a; English ladi amusements sea-bathing hours. The famed beau' trout are foi The great ern scenery, rainy weath The peninst high, which was given b tie." The • 4 J M. dista Modeste. From Riv passing witl (1.) and Red The Sagu ';'• I / I. THE SAGUENAY RIVER. Route73. 297 73. The Sagnenay River. steamers leave Quebec for Chieoutimi, the farthest port on the Sa^enay, on Tuesday and Friday, at 7 A.M. (see page 291) ; and for Ha Ila Bay on Wednesday, Thursday, and Saturday. They reach Tudousac by nightfall, and start on the re- turn from Chieoutimi the next morning. Distances. — Quebec to Tudousac, 134 M. ; Tadousac to Riviere St. Morguerite, 15 ; St. Louis Islets, 11) ; Uiviere aux Canards, 23 ; Little Sagucnay River, 27 ; St. ,lohn'.>« Bay, 32; Eternity Bay, 41 ; Trinity Bay, 48; Cape Rouge, 56 ; Cape E:i.st, fi3; Cape West, 66 ; St. Alphonse, 72 ; St. Fulgence, 95 ; Chieoutimi, 100. This itinerary is ba.sed on that of the steamship company and is not correct, but will bo useful in marking approximations to the relative distances between the points on the river. There is no other bible of distances accessible. Imray's Sailing Direc- tions (precise authority) says that it is 65 M. from the St. Lawrence to Chieoutimi. The ** Saguenay Eiver is the chief tributary of the Lower St. Law- rence, and is the outlet of the great Lake St. John, into which 11 rivers fall. For the last 50 M. of its course the stream is from 1 to 2^ M. wide, and is bordered on both sides by lofty precipices of syenite and gneiss, which impinge directly on the shores, and are dotted with stunted trees. Along their slopes are the deep Tnes of glacial striations, telling of the passage of formidable icebergs down this chasm. The bed of the river is 100 fathoms lower than that of the St. Lawrence, a difference which is larply marked at the point of confluence. The shores were stripped of . eir forests by a great fire, in 1810, but there are large numbers of hemlock and birch trees in the neighboring glens. The river is frozen from the St. Louis Isles to Chieoutimi during half the year, and snow remains on the hills until June. The awful majesty of its unbroken mountain-shores, the profound depth of its waters, the absence of life through many leagues of 'listance, have made tlie Saguenay unique among rivers, and it is yearly isited by thousands of tourists as one of the chief curiosities of the West- ern World. " The Saguenay is not, properly, a river. It is a tremendous chasm, like that of the Jordan VrJley and the Dead Sea, cleft for 60 M. through the heart of a mountiiin wilderness. ... No magical illusions of atmosphere enwrap the scenery of this northern river. Everything is hard, naked, stern, silent. Dark-gray cliffs of granitic gneiss rise from the pitch-black water ; firs of gloomy green are rooted in their crev- ices and fringe their summits ; loftier ranges of a dull indigo hue show themselves in the background, and over all bends a pale, cold, northern sky. The keen air, whicli brings out every object with a crystalHne distinctness, even contracts the di- mensions of the scenery, diminishes the height of the cliffs, and apparently belittles the majesty of the river, so that the first feeling is one of disappointment. Still, it exercises a fa.scination which you cannot resist. You look, and look, fettered by the fresh, novel, savage stamp which nature exhibits, and at last, as in St. Peter's or at Niagjira, learn from the character of the separate features to appreciate the grandeur of the whole Steadily upwards we went, the windings of the river and its vary- ing breadth — from ^ M. to nearly 2 M. — giving us a shifting succession of the grandest pictures. Shores that seemed roughly piled together out of the frasments of chaos overhung us, — great masses of rock, gleaming duskily through their scanty drapery of evergreens, here lifting long irregular walls against the sky, there split into huge, fantastic forms by deep lateral gorges, up which we saw the dark-blue crests of loftier mountains in the rear. The water btneath us waa black as night, with a pitchy glaze on its surface; and the only life in all the savage solitude was, now and then, the back of a white porpoise, in some of the deeper coves The river is a reproduction — truly on a contracted scale — of the fiords of the Norwegian 13* n t ii !H I 110 , I i 1 !! I 298 Route73. THE SAGUENAY RIVER. coofit The dark mountains, the tremendous precipices, the flr forests, even the settlements at Ila Ila Bay and L'Anse k I'Eau (except that the houses are white in- stond of red) are as completely Norwegian as they can be. The Scandinavian skip- pers wliocome to Canada all notice this resemblance, and many of them, I learn, settle here." (Bayard Taylor.) " From Ila Ha right down to the St. Lawrence, you see nothing but the cold, black, gloomy Siiguenay, rolling between two straight lines of rocky hills that rif-e steeply from the water's edge. Thece hills, though steep, are generally roughly rounded in shape, and not abrupt or faced with precipices. This makes the scenery differ from that with which it has been often compared, the boldest of the fiords of Norway. Over the rugged hills of the Saguenay there is generally enough of earth here and there lodged to let the gray rock be dotted over with a dark-green sprink- ling of pine-trees. Perhaps there is hardly a spot on the Saguenay, which, taken by itself, would not impress any lover of wild nature by its grandeur, and even sublimity ; but after sailing for 70 miles downwards, passing rocky hill after rocky hill, rising one beyond the other in monotonously straight lines alongside of you ; . . . . after vainly longing for some break in these twin imprisoning walls, which might allow the eye the relief of wandering over an expanse of country, — you will begin to compare tho Saguenay ii no kindly spirit to the Rhine It is a cold, savage, inhuman river, fit to take rank with Styx and Acheron ; and, into the bargain, it is dull. For the whole 70 miles, you will not be likely to see any living thing on it or near it, outside of your own steamer, not a house, nor a field, nor a sign of any sort that living things have ever been there." (White ) " Sunlight and clear sky are out of place over its black waters. Anything which recalls the life and smile of nature is not in uni.«on with tlic huge nuked cliffs, raw, cold, and silent as the tombs. An Italian spring could effect no change in tho deadly, rugged aspect ; nor does winter add one iota to its mournful desolation. It is with a sense of relief that tlic tourist emcges from its sullen gloom, and looks back upon it as a kind of vault, — Nature's sarcophagus, where life or sound seems never to have entered. Compared to it the Dead Sea is blooming, and the wildest nivincs look cosey and smiling. It is wild without the least variety, and grand Apparently in spite of it.=clf ; while so utter is the solitude, so dreary and monoto- nous the frown of its great black walls of rock, that the tourist is sure to get impa- tient with its sullen dead reverse, till he feels almost an antipathy to its very name. The Saguenay seems to want painting, blowing up, or draining, — anything, in short, to alter its morose, quiet, eternal awe. Talk of Lethe or the Styx, — they must have been purling brooks compared with this savage river ; and a picnic on the tanks of either would be preferable to one on the banks of the Saguenay." {London Times.) On Sept. 1, 1535, Tadousac was visited by the wonder-loving Cartier, with three vessels. He saw the Indians fishing off shore, and reported that, " in a.scending the Saguenay, you reach a country where there are men dressed like us, who live in cities, and have much gold, rubies, and copper." The river was vLMted by Roberval in 1543, and part of the expedition was lost. Thenceforward the country of the Saguenay was explored by the fur-traders and the fearless Jesuits. In 1603 Tadou- sac was visited by Champlain, around whose vessel the natives crowded in their canoes in order to sell or barter away their peltries. Seven years later a solemn and beau- tiful scene occurred at Point la Boule (the immense promontory which is seen 5 M. up-stream), when Champlain and Lescarbot attended the great council of the Montaignnis. They were received with dignified courtesy by the Sagamore Anada- bijou, and conducted to the meeting of the warriors, where several grave and eloquent speeches were made while the pipe of peace was passed around. Tlie Montaignais at that time numbered 9 tribes, '2 of which dwelt along the river, and the other 7 occupied the vast area towards Hudson's Bay and the land of the Esqui- maux. Their last Sagamore, Simeon, died in 1849, and had no successor, and the poor remnant of the nation now obtains a precarious living by beggary, or has with- drawn into the fastnesses of the North. The present name of the river is a modifi- cation of the original Indian word Sagg^ishsilcuss, which means "a river whose banks are precipitous." In 1671 the heroic and self-abnegating Jesuit, Pere de Crepieul, founded the mis- sion at Tadousac, where he remained for 26 years, passing the winters in tho wretched huts of the savages. Before this time (in 1661) the Fathers Druillettes and *^ ( TADOUSAC. Route 73. 299 ltd, even the ro white in- lavinn skip- ni, I learn, it the cold, lis that ri.'e lly roughly the scenery he flords of gh of earth reen sprink- h, taken by I sublimity ; :1, rising one after vainiy low the eye ompare the uman river, 11. For the r it, outside that living hing which cliffs, raw, nge in the )lation. It , and looks )und seems the wildest and grand id monoto- o get impo- very name, lyihing, in yx, — they cnic on the " {^London with three ending the vho live ill y Roberval itry of the 303 Tadou- heir canoes and beau- 1 is seen 5 ncil of the ore Anada- grave and und. The river, and the Esqui- )r, and the ■ has with- s a modifi- iver whose d the mis- !rs in the Uettes and 4^-' M Dablon had ascended the river to Lake St. .John and there had baptized many In- dians, and founded the mission of St. Frani^ois Xavicr. The Montaignais are still in the Catholic faith, and each family has its prayer-book and breviary, in which they are able to read. In 1671 Father Albanel ascended the Saguenay from Tadou- sac, by order of Intendant Bigot, and pas.«ed N. to Hudson's Bay by way of the great lakes of St. John and Mistassini. The country about the Upper Saguenay was then well known to the zealous churchmen, but after the decline of the missions it was forgotten. About 50 years ago the Canadian government had it re-explored by efficient officers, and this remote region is now l>eing occupied by French-Canadian ha nlets. The chief business on the river is the exportation of lumber, which is shipped from Chicoutimi in immense quantities. Tadottsao is a small village, prettily situated on a semicircular terrace surrounded with mountains and fronting on a small harbor, deep and secure. The St. Lawrence is here about 24 M. wide, and the mountains of tlic S. shore are visible, while on clear days the view includes the white villages of Cacouna and Riviere du Loup. The * Tndousac Hotel ($ 2.50 a day) is a spacious establishment on the bluff over the beach. It was founded in 1865 by a joint-stock company, and has been successful. The sea-bathing is very good, although the water is cold, and sea-trout are caught off the shore. The old buildings of the Hudson's Bay Company are near the hotel, and on the lawn before them is a battery of antiquated 4-pounder3. E. of the hotel is the old * chapel of the Jesuit mission, which was erected in 1746 on the site of a still more ancient church. The summer cottages are near the shore, and are cheerful little buildings. The Earl of Dufferin, Governor-General of Canada, has erected a handsome house here. The scenery of the landward environs is described in the Indian word Tadotisac, which means knobs or mamclons. " Tadousac is placed, like a nest, in the midst of the granite rocks that surround the mouth of the Saguenay. The chapels and the buildings of the post occupy the ed\;e of a pretty plateau, on the summit of an escarped height. So perched, these edifices dominate the narrow strip of fine sand which sweeps around at their feet. On the r. the view plunges into the profound waters of the sombre Saguenay ; in front, it is lost in the immense St. Lawrence. All around are mountains covered with fir-trees and birches. Through the opening which the mighty river has cut through the rock, the reefs, the islands, and south shores are seen. It is a delicious place " (Tache.) 4 M. E. of Tadousac is the harbor of MotUin d Baude, where are large beds of white marble. Charlevoix anchored here in the Chameau (in 1700), and was so en- thu.«iastic over the discovery that he reported that " all this country is full of mar- ble." Pointe Rouge, the S. E. promontory before Tadousac, is composed of an in- tensely hard red granite. The shore extends to the N. E. to the famous shooting- grounds of Mille Vaches, the trout-stream of the Laval River, and the Hudson's Bay post of Betsiamitis (see page 233). In the year 1599 a trading-post was established at Tadousac by Pontgrav^ and Chauvin, to whom this country had been granted. They built storehouses and huts, and left 16 men to gather in the furs from the Indians, but several of these died and the rest fled into the forest. Two subsequent attempts within a few years ended as disastrously. In 1628 the place was captured by Admiral Kirke, and in 1632 his brother died here. In 1658 the lordship of this district, was given to the Sieur De- maux, with the dominion over the country between Eboulements and Cape Cor- morant. Three years later the pliice was captured by the Iroquois, and the garrison was masimcred. In 1690 three French frigates, bearing the royal treasure to Quebec, were chased in here by Sir William Phipps's New-England fleet. They formed bat- teries on the Tadousac shores, but the Americans were unable to get their vessels t :( f 1 1 «•■ [li!i 300 nonte 73. CniCOTJTIMI. up through the swift currents, and the French fleet was saved. The tradlng-pojt and ntisslon were kept up with advantage. Cliarlevoix visited the place in 1720, and says: " The greatest Part of our Oeographerw have hen placed a Town, but where there never was but one French hou.«e, and some huts of Savages who came tliere in the Time of the Trade and who carried away their Iluts or Bootlis, when tliey went away ; and tliis was tJie wliole matter. It is true tliat tiiis Port lias been a long Time the Ue.'Jort of all the Savage Nations of the North and Ea.'tt, and that the French reported thither as soon as the Navigation was free both from France and Canada ; the Mis.sionaries also made Use of tlie Opportunity, and came to trade bem for Heaven, And when the Trade was over, the Merchants returned to their Homes, the Savages took the U'ay to their Villages or Forests, and the Gospel Labourers fol- lowed the last, to compleat their Instructions." Tho steamer leaven Ta "These rapids extend 3 M.; tli^n tliere arc 3 M, of smooth water; then n second rapi'l of terrific strength; tiien 10 M. of still wator; then 2 M. of rapids; tlien ^ M. of still water. Finally, there succeed the miglity rush nnd uproar of the Grand Dei harge, mingling with the foam and tumult of the I'etit Di'cliarge. Tlu^sc emjjty the waters of tiio Grand St. John Lake, and sweeping around a rugged island with terrific nnd unnatural foiTC, tmife, and rage, contend, ami finally melt and settle down into tho quiet mood of the still water below." In this part of the river is found tho winninish, or Northern charr, a game-fish whose pink meat is con- sidered a greater delicacy than brook-trout or salmon. Lake St. John was diseovered in 1647 by Father Duqucn, the misfilonary at Tadousao, who was tlie first European to useenil tlie Saguenay to its source. It was tlien culled by the Tndians Picouai;ami, or Flat Lake. Several Jesuit mis- sionaries soon piissed by this route to tho great Nekouba, where all the northern tribes were wont to meet in annual fairs ; and in ltj72 Father Albanel advanced from Tadousac, by Lake St. .Jolin and Luke Misfassiui, to the Mer da Noril, or Hud- son's Hay. A Catholic mission was founded on the lake, at Metabetohuan, and posts of tli(> Hudson's Bay Company wcie al.so established here. The lake is of great area, and receives the waters .(> M. fron> Lake Mistassini, which is 76 X 30 M. in area. The water is shallow, and is agitated into furious white wavci by the N. W. winds. To tne N. and W. is a vast region of lo.v \olcanu mountains and dreary lands of low spruce forests. The soil along the hike-shores is said to be a fertile allu- vium, capable of nourisinng a dense i)opulatif)n ; but the winters are long and ter- rible. 20 years ago there were no settlements here except the Hudson's Bay posts ; now there arc numerous villages, tho chief of which are Roberval, Ilivitro a I'Ours, and St. Jerome. Mr. Price, M. P., states that a missionary has recently discovered, high upon the Saguenay (or on the Mistassini), an ancient French fort, with intrenchments and stockades. On the inside were two cannon, and several broken tombstones dating from the early part of tho IGth century. It is surmised that these remote memorials mark the last resting-place of the Sieur Roberval, Governor-General of Canada, who (it is supposed) saileil up the Saguenay in 1543, and was never heard from after- wards. The Ilobervals were favorites of King Francis 1., who called one of them " the Petty King of Viemen," and the other, " the Gendarme of Hannibal." They were both lost on their last expedition to America. In descending the Saguenay from Chicoutimi to Ha Ha Bay, the scenery is of remarkable boldness, but is less startling than the lower reaches of the river. Soon after leaving the village the steamer passes the pretty villa and the Anglican church pertaining to Senator Price. Below this point is a line of hills of marly clay; and Cape St. Francois soon rears its dark crest on the 1. bank. The river widens rapidly, and the hamlet of at. Fidfjence is seen on the 1,, near Pointe Roches. Beyond the ponderous walls of High Point is another broad reach, with small islets under the 1. bank. The steau.er now runs between the frowning promontories of Capo East and Cape West, and passes the entrance to Ha Ha Bay. * Ha Ha Bay runs 7 M. S. W. from the Saguenay, and is ascended be- tween lofty and serrated ridges, bristling with sturdy and stunted trees. So broad and stately is this inlet that it is said that the early French explorers ascended it in the belief that it was the main river, and the name originated from their exclamations on rcach'ng the end, either of N« 'Ml \t It * . : i P t l' * I; =r ^1 t t m n 302 Jloute 73. IIA IIA BAY. nmuscmcnt at their mistake or of pleasure at the beautiful appearance of the meadows. After running for several miles between the terraced clifls of Capo West (on the r.) and the opposite ridges, the steamer enters a wide haven whoso shores consist of open intervale-land, backed by tall Ithie heights. The entrance is 4 M. long, 1 M. wide, and 100 fathoms «leep, and the haven can be reached by ships of the line without difticnlty. It is expected that this bay will be the great port of "the hyperborean Latin nation" which is fast settling the Upper Saguenay and Lake St. John country. Large quantities of lumber are loaded here upon British and Scandinavian ships, and u flourishing trade is carried on in the autumn by sending farm-produce and blueberries to Quebec, — the latter being packed in cofllin-shaped boxes and sold for 10 - 20 cents a bushel. The steamer is moored to the wharf at St. Alphonse (Bagotville), near which is the church and a village of 250 inhabitants. Calashes are found at the pier, on which the passengers can ride up over the hills or to St. Alexis (Grande Bale), a village of 300 inhabitants, 3 M. distant on the S. shore of the bay. The mail-road is prolonged from this point, through the uninhabited wilderness of the Crown Lands, to St. Urbain and St. Paul's Bay (see page 292). The Riviere a Mars, emptying into the bay between St. Alphonse and St. Alexis, is famous for its salmon-fisheries. " The long lino of sullen hills had fallen avray, and the morning sun ehono warm on what in a fr'endlicr climate would have been a very lovely landscape. The bay was an irregular o'al, witli shores that rose in bold but not lofty heights on one pide, while on the other lay a narrow plain witii two villages clinging about the road that followed the crescent beach, and lifting each the slender tin-clad spire of its church to sparkle in the sun. At the head of the bay was a mountainous top, and ulnnc; .:s waters were masses of rocks, gayly painted with lichens and stained with metallic tints of orange and scarlet." Howklls.) 21 M. from Ila Ila Bay is Lac a la Belle Tritite, famous for its immense red trout, and beyond is the Great Ha Ha Lake, among the mountains, with bold capes en- circling forests, and a pretty island. 6 M. from Belle Truitc is the Little Ha Ha Lake, on whose shore is a stupendous cliff nearly 2,000 ft. high. The blue peaks of the St. Margaret Mts. are about 30 M . from Ha Ha Bay, and sweep from Lake St. John to Hudson's Bay. Carriages may be taken from St. Alphonse to Chicoutimi (12 M.), and for longer excursions toward Lake St. John. After passing the dark chasm of Ha Ha Bay, Cnpe East is seen on the 1., throwing its serrated ledges far out into the stream, and cutting off the retrospective view. Rugged palisades of syenite line the shores on both sides. " The procession of the pine-clad, rounded heights on either shore began shortly after Ha Ha Bay had disappeared behind a curve, and it hardly ceased, save at one point, before the boat re-entered the St. Law- rence. The shores of the river are almost uninhabited. The hills rise from the water's edge; and if ever a narrow vale divides them, it is but to open drearier solitudes to the eye." Just before reaching Cape Rouge (1. bank) the ravine of Descente des Femmes opens to the N., deriving its singular name from a tradition that a party of Indians were starving, in the back-country, and sent their squaws for help, who descended to tho river through this wild gorge and Fecured assistance. 4M ETERNITY BAY. Roule 73. 303 pearnnec of rmccd clids ler enters n ked by tali 100 fathoms It difriculty. lyporborcan d Lake St. pon British on in tlio — the latter I busliel. tville), near !S are found lis or to St. it on the S. Iirougli the St. Paul's ay between Bhono warm >e. The bay ights on one lout the road I spire of its ous top, and stained with Fe red trout, Id capes en- ittle Ila Ha ihie peaks of )m Lake St. ) Chicoutimi n on the 1., :ing off the res on both itiier shore rve, and it le St. Law- 3 hills rise 1, it is but lape Rouge leriving its tarving, in [led to the I ^^ On the r. bank is *Z,e Tableau^ a cliff 900 ft. high, whoso rlverwanl face contains a broad siieet of dark limestone, GOO X 300 ft. in area, so smooth and straight as to suggest a vast canvas prepared for a picture. Still farther down (r. bank) is " * Statue Point, where, at about 1,000 feet above the water, a huge, rough Gothic arch gives entrance to a cave, i»^. which, as yet, the foot of man has never trodden. Before the entrance to tliis black aperture, a gigantic rock, like the statue of some dead Titan, once stood. A few years ago, during the winter, it gave way, and the monstrous statue came crashing down through the ice of the Saguenay, and lel't bare to view the entrance to the cavern it had guarded perhaps for ages." The steamer soon passes Cape Trinity on the r. bank, and runs in close to ** Eternity Bay, which is a narrow cove between the majestic clifFs of Capo Trinity and Cape Eternity. The water is 150 fathoms deep, and the cliffs descend abruptly into its profoundest parts. * Cape Trinity consists of three vast superimposed precipices, each of which is 6-600 ft. high, on whose faces are seen two remarkable profiles. The echo in the bay is wonderful, and is usually tested by discharging a gun or blow- ing a whistle. (In recent maps and descriptions the name of Eternity has been given to the N. cape, and Trinity to the other. This is not correct, for the N. cape was named La Trinity by the Jesuits on account of its union of three vast sections into one mountain. It is known by that name among the old pilots and river-people. The Editor has substituted the correct names in the ensuing quotations.) •' The masterpiece of the Saguenay is the majesty of its two Rrandest bulwarks, — Cape Trinity and Cape Eternity, — enormous masses of rock, 1,500 feet hiph, rising sheer out of the black water, and jutting forward into it so as to shelter a lit" tie buy of the river between their gloomy portals. In the sublimity of their height and steepness, and in the beautiful effect against the rock of the pine-trees which here and there gain a dizzy foothold, nestling trustfully into every hollow on the face of the tremendous precipice, these capes can hardly bo surpassed by any river- scene in the world." (VVhite.) "Suddenly the boat rounded the comer of the three steps, each 500 ft. high, in which Cape Trinity climbs from the river, and crept in under the naked side of the awful cliff. It is sheer rock, springing from the black water, and stretching upward with a weary, efibrt-like aspect, in long impulses of stone marked by deep seams from space to space, till, 1,500 ft. in air, its vast brow beetles forward, and frowns with a scattering fringe of pines The rock fully justifies its attributive height to the eye, which follows the upward rush of the mighty acclivity, steep after steep, till it wins the cloud-capt summit, when the measureless mass seems to swing and sway overhead, and the nerves tremble with the same terror that besets him who looks downward from the verge of a lofty precipice. It is wholly grim and stern ; no touch of beauty relieves the austere majesty of that presence. At the foot of Cape Trinity the water is of unknown depth, and it spreads, a black expanse, in the rounding hollow of shores of unimaginable wildness and desolation, and issues again in its river's course around the base of Cape Eternity. This is yet loftier than the sister cliff, but it slopes gently backward from the stream, and from foot to crest it is heavily clothed with a forest of pines. The woods that hitherto have shagged the hills with a stunted and meagre growth, showing long stretches scarred by fire, now assume a stately size, and assemble themselves compactly upon the side of the mountain, setting their serried stems one rank above another, till the summit is crowned with the ma^s of their dark green plumes, dense and soft and beautiful; 304 Route 73. ETERNITY BAY. n so that the spirit, perturbed by the spectacle of the other cliff, is calmed and as- Buafiod by the serene grandeur of this '' (IIo\veij.s"s A Clinnce Acquaintanct.) " Tliese awful cliffs, planted in water nearly a thousand feet deep, and soarinpinto the very sky, form the gateway to a rugged valley, stretching inland, and covered with the dark primeval fcorst of the North. 1 doubt whether a subliuier picture of the wilderness is to bo found on this continent The wall of dun-colored syenitic granite, ribbea with vertical ?trenl;s of black, hung for a moment directly over our heads, as high as three Trinity rpires atop of one another. Westward, the wall ran inland, projecting bastion after bastion of inaccessible rock, over the dark forests in the bed of the A'alley." (Bayard Taylor.) " The wild scenery jf the river culminates at a little inlet on the right bank be- tween Capes Trinity aid Eternity. Than these two dreadfi 1 headlands nothing cau be imagined more grai d and impressive. For one brief mcnient the rugged charac- ter of the river is partly softened, and, looking back into tl e deep valley between the capes, the land has an aspect of life and .aiild luxuriance which, though not rich, at lea.**t seems so in comparison with the grievous awful barrenness. Cape Eternity on this side towards the landward opening is rretty thickly clothed with fir and birch mingled together in a color contrast which is beautiful enough, especially where the rocks show out among them, with their little cascades and waterfalls like strips of silver shining in the sun. But Cape Trinity v.ell becomes its name, and is the revei"se of Jill this. 1 1 seems to frown in gloomy indignation on its brother for the weakness it betrays in allowing anything like life or verdure to shield its wild, uncouth deformity ')f strength. Cape Trinity certainly shows no sign of relaxing in this respect from its dtH>p savage grandeur. It is one tremendous cliff of linie>>>tone, more than 1,500 feet high, and inclining forward more than 200 feet, brow-beating all lieneath it, and seeming as if at any moment it would fall and overwhelm the deep black stream which Hows so cold and motionless down below. High up, on its rough gray brows, a few stunted pines show like bristles their scathed white arms, giving an awful w ird aspect to the mass, blanched here and there by the tempests of ages, stained and discolored by little waterfalls in blotchy and decaying spots. Unlike Niagara, and all other of God's great works in nature, one does not wish for silence or soli- tude here. Companionship becomes doubly necessary in an awful solitude like this." {London Times.) When the Flying Fish ascended the river with the Prince of Wales and his suite, one of her heavy (j8-pounders was fired off near Cape Trinity. " For the space of half a minute or so after tlie discharge there wius a dead silence, and then , as if the i-eport and concu.ssion were hurled back upon the decks, the echoes came down crash upon crash. It seemed as if the rocks and crags had all sprung into life under the tre- mendous din, and as if each was firing G8-pounders full upon us, in sharp, crushing volleys, till at last they grew hoarser and hoarser in their anger, and retreated, bellow- ing slowly, carrying the tale of invaded .solitude from hill to hill, till all the distant mountains seemed to roar and groan at the intrusion." St. John's Bay (r. bank) is 6 M. below Eternity Bay, and is shallow enough to afford an anchorage for shipping. It is 2 M wide and 3 M. long, and receives the St. John River. At its end is a small hamlet, situated in K narrow valle}'' Avhich appears beautiful in contrast with the surrounding cl.ffs. Far inland are seen the blue peaks of distant mountains. In the little cove opposite is the white thread of a lofty cascade. The Little Saguenay River (r. bank) is 4 M. below, and flows down out of a bristling wilderness where are famous Indian hunting-grounds and pools filled with trout. A short distance below are the islets at the mouth of the Riviere aux Canards. The steamer then sweeps by the St. Louis Isle, a granite rock, ^ M. long, covered with firs, spruces, and birch-trees. There is 1,200 ft. depth of water around this islet, in which are multitudes of salmon-trout. On the r. bank are the massive promontories of Cape Victoria and Cape George. The * retrospect from this point affords one of the grandest views on the river. 2 M. below (1. bank) is seen the intcr- t-^ v «*^ i QUEBEC TO MONTREAL. Route 7 4. 305 ned and as- tanct.) foariiifrinto md odvcrcd user pic fine dun-rolored ent directly !ftward, tile er tJie darlc it bank be- nothing cau (led cliarao- iic'txvccn tile h not rioli, pe Eternity tirandbircii y where the lii»tances. — Quebec to Batiscan, 69 M. ; Three Rivers, 90; Sorel, 135; Mon- treal, 180. Tiie. Grand Trunk Railway runs two trains daily between Quebec and Montreal. Stations- — Quebec (Point Levi) ; Iladlow, 2 M. ; Chaudiere Curve, 8 ; Craig's Road, 15; Black River, 20; Methofs Mills, 28 ; Lystcr, 37 . Becancour, 41 ; Somerset, 49 ; Stanfold, 55; Arthabaska, 64; Warwick, 71; Daaville, 84; Richmond, 96; New Durham, 106 ; Acton, 118 ; Upton, 124; Britannia Mills, 130; St. Hyacinthe, 137 ; Soixantc, 144; St. Uilaire, 150; St. Bruno, 157; St. Hubert, 162; St. Lambert, 167 ; Montreal, 172. " It could really be called a village, beginning at Montreal and ending at Quebec, which is a distance of more than 180 M. ; for the farm-houses are never more than five arpents apart, and sometimes but three asunder, a few places excepted." (Kalm, the Swedish traveller, in 1749.) In 1684 La Hontan s;tid that the houses along these shores were never more than a gunshot apart. The inhabitants are s'mple-minded and If m m 306 Jlo2(te 74. ST. AUGUSTIN. 1 primitive in thrir ways, tenaciously retaining- the Catliolic faith and the French language anil customs. Emery de Caen, Champlain's contemporary, told the Hugue- not sailors that " Monseigueur, the Duke de Ventadour (A'iceroy), did not with tiK.t they should sing psalms in the Great lliver." When the first steamboat ascended this river, an old Canadian voyagi ur exclaimed, in astouisliment and doubt, " Mais croyez-vous que le bon Dieu permettra tout ccla I " As the steamboat swings out into the stream a fine series of views are afforded, including Quebec and the Basin, the bold bluffs of Point Levi, and the dark walls of the Citadel, almost overhead. As the river is as- cended, the villas of Sillerj' and Cap Rouge are seen on the r., and on the 1. are the wharves and villages of South Quebec and New Liverpool, be- yond which are the mouths of the Etchemiu and C'-audiere Rivers. St. Augustin is on the N. shore, 15 ^L above Quebec, and has a Calvatre, to which many pilgrimages are made, and a statue of the Guardian Angel, erected on a base of cut stone in front of the church, and commemorating the Vatican Council of 1870. Near the village is a ruined church dating from 1720, at whoRe construction tlie Devil is said to have assisted, in tlic form of a powerful black stallion who hauled in the blocks of stone, until his driver unbridled him at a watering-place, when ho vanished in a cloud of sulphur-smoke. In front of St. Augustine the French frigate Atalante surrendered to the British fleet in 1760, after a heroic but hopeless battle ; and in the same waters the steamer Montreal was burned in 1857, and 200 passen- gers lost their lives. Pointe aux Trembles is 3 M. above St. Augustin (N. . ire, and is a ship- building village of 700 inhabitants. Here many of the ladies of Quebec took refuge during Wolfe's siege (1759), and were captured bj' his Gren- adiers. Here also the American armies of Arnold and Montgomery united their forces (Dec. 1, 1775) before the disastrous assault on Quebec. Pass- ing the hamlet of St. Antoine de Tilly, on the S. shore, the village of Les Ecureuih is seen on the N., 7 M. above Pointe aux Trembles. This is near the mouth of the Jacques Cartier Biver, famous for its remarkable scenery and for its fine trout-fishing (on the upper waters). On the heights near the mouth of the river was Fori Jacques Cartier, to which 10,000 French troops retreated af'er the defeat cf Montcalm. Nearly a year later (June, 1760) the fort was lield by the ]\Larquis d'Albergotti, and was bom- barded and taken by Fr.iser's Highlanders. 6 M. above Les Ecureuils is St. Croix (S. shore), a village of 750 in- habitants, with a black nunnery and the public buildings of Lotbiniere County. 3 SL teyond (N. shore) is Portneuf, a prosperous little town with paper-mills and a large country trade. This seigniory was granted to M. Le Neuf by the Cent Associ^s in 1647, and was completely deso- lated by the famishing French cavalry in 1759. Beyond this point the scenery becomes less picturesque, and the bold ridges of the Laurentian Mts. sink down into level lowlands. Deschambault (N. shore) has 500 in- habitants, with a trade in lumber and flour. Lotbiniere (S. shore) is a town of 2,500 inhabitants, with a Convent of the Bon Pasteur and two stove-foundries. Grondines (N. shore) is 3 M. beyond Deschambault, and ^ 1 ti^ A THREE RIVERS. noxite 74. 307 «.?!■ %i» i^Si i. has 400 inhabitants; and St. Jean Deschaillons (S. sliore) is noted for its brickyards. St. Anne de la Perade (N. (■hore) lias a great church, and is . situated at the mouth of the St. Anne River, wliich is liere crossed by a bridge 1,500 ft. long. Beyond St. Pierre les Becquets (S. shore) is tho busy little port of ^afiscara (N. shore), with its two lighthouses; Gentilhj (S. shore) has 600 inhabitants and the Convent of tho Assumption; and Champlain (N. shore) has 400 inhabitants. Three Elvers {British American Hotel) is a city of 9,000 inhabitants, midway between Quebec and Montreal, and at the head of tide-water on the St. Lawrence River. It was founded in 1G18, under the name of Trols Rivieres, and played an important part in the eai*ly history of Canada. The (jhief buildings are the stately Catholic Cathedral, the Court-House, the Ursuline Convent, St. Joseph's College, and the Episcopal and Wes- Icyan churches. The city has a bank, 2 Masonic lodges, and 4 semi- weekly and weekly newspapers (2 of which are French). Besides the daily boats of the Richelieu Line, there are 5 steamboats plying from this port to the adjacent river-villages. It is connected with Quebec and Montreal by the Three-Rivers Branch of the Grand Trunk Railway and by the North-Shore Railway, and is building a new line up the St. Mau- rice Valley to Grand Piles. There are large iron-works and machine- shops here, and stoves and car-wheels are made in great numbers from bog-iron ore. The chief industry is the shipment of lumber, which comes down the St. Maurice River. The Canadian government has expended $200,000 in improving the navigation on the St. Maurice, and over $1,000,000 has been invested in mills and booms above. The St. Maurice River waters a district of immense (and unknown) extent, abounding in lakes and forests. Portions of tliis great northern wilderness have been visited by the lumbermen, whocond.ict rafts toThree Rivers, where the lumber is sawed. About 22 M. above the city are the noble Falls 0/ the Shawanegan, where the great river plunges over a perpendicular descent of 150 f^. between the lofty rocks called La Grand'' Mere aud Le Bonhomrne. A few miles above are the Falls of the GranW Mire. These falls are visited by engaging canoes and guides at Three Rivers, while hunting-parties conducted by Canadian voyagettrs or Algonquin Indians sometimes pass thence into the remote northern forests in pursuit of the larger varieties of game. Tho head-waters of the St. Maurice are interlcKiked with those of the Saguenay. Across the St. Maurice is the thriving village of Cap de la Magdelaine ; and on the S. shore are Becancour, the capital of Nicolet County, and St. Angel de Laval (Doucett's Lauding), the terminus of a br nch of the Qrand Trunk Railway. The steamer soon enters Lake St. Peter, a shallow widening of the river 22 M. long and 8 M. broad. It has a deep and narrow channel (partly ar- tificial), which is marked out by buoys and poles, and is used by large vessels. Immense lumber-rafts are often seen here, drifting downward like floating islands, and bearing streamers, sails, and the rude huts of the lumbermen. In stormy weather on the lake these rafts sometimes come to pieces. The inlets along tho low shore-! afford good duck-shooting; and enormous quantities of eels and pike are taken from the waters. Near the I' i 1 r : 1 . f ' , ■' ' 1 ■ .- 1 f 1 ! P; I! 1 ' : . [ m M id 'A ' i 1 i i 308 lioute 71 SOREL. E. end of the lake, at tlie mouth of tlie Nicolet River, is the populous town of Nioolet, famous for its flour and lumber trade and for its noble college, with its 250 students and a library of 10,000 volumes. The build- ings are surrounded by attractive parks and gardens. On the N. shore is Rivi6re du Loup en haul, near which are the celebrated St. Leon Springs (reached by daily stage from Three Rivers, in 24 M. ; fare, $1.50; Gil- man's Hotel, and others). St. Francois du Lac is a pretty village on the S. W. shore, at the mouth of the great St. Francis River. On leaving Lake St. Peter, the steamer threads her way through an archipelago of low islands, and soon reaches Sorel (four hotels), a city of 7,500 inhabitants, with 3 weekly papers (2 French), a Catholic college, several shipyards and foundries, and a large country trade. It is at the mouth of the great River Richelieu, the outlet of Lake George and Lake Champlain, whose head-waters are interlocked with those of the Hudson. Navigation is kept up between this point and the Lake-Cham plain ports by the Chambly Canal, and a railway is being built to meet the Grand Trunk line at Upton. The town is regularly laid out, and its broad streets are adorned with trees. In the centre is the Royal Square, whose fine old elms are much admired. Fort Richelieu was built on this site in 1641 , and was re-constructed and enlarged by Capt. Sorel, of the Carignan Regiment, under orders from Gov. de Tracy (1665). In November, 1775, it was occupied by Col. Easton, with a strong force of Continen- tal troops and a flotilla, and this detachment captured 11 sail of vessels, containing Gen. Prcscott and the British garrison of Montreal. Sorel was for many years the summer residence of the Canadian governors, and on being visited by Prince Wil- liam Henry of England (afterward King William IV.) an abortive attempt was made to change its name to William Henry. Berthier en haut is 6 M. above Sorel, on the N. shore (semi-daily steam- ers), and is an important manufacturing town of 1,700 inhabitants, situated amid rich farming lands. It was the birthplace of M. Faribault, long time a N. W. Commissioner, and founder of Faribault, Minnesota. Back of Berthier are the populous towns of St. Cuthbert, St. Norbet, St. Felix de Valois, and St. lilizabeth. Lanoraie is 9 M. above Berthier (N. Shore), and is the terminus of the St. Lawrence & Industry Railway, which runs N. W. 12 M. to St, Thomas and Joliette, and thence into Montcalm County. 15 M. above Sorel (S. shore) is Contrecoeur, noted for its maple- sugar; and Lavaltrie is 15 M. above Berthier (N. shore), and has 2 lighthouses. 6 M. above is St. Sulpice (N. shore), beyond which is L'As- somption (Hotel Richard), a prosperous village of 2,600 inhabitants. Above the N. shore village of Rcpentigny the N. branch of the Ottawa River (Rivi6re des Prairies) flows into the St. Lawrence, having diverged from the Ottawa at the Lake of the Two Mountains. Varennes is a pretty village on the S. shore, opposite Isle St. Tlierese, and connected by a ferry with Bout de I'lsle, and with Montreal (15 M. dis- tant) by a daily steamer. It has 825 inhabitants, and manufactures many c^ ti- e^ e^ »9 u- 9»f er- tat (oe ^re !at lot ux A ttt in en es lie mm «t^ !1 1 1 ii ; >• i m ■<\ ^ i 11 308 Jioi E. end of t town of Ni college, wit ings are sui Rivl6re du (reached b; man's Hot€ S. W. slion On leavi archipelagc 7,500 inhab several shij mouth of t Champlain Navigation the Chamb line at Upt adorned wi elms are m Fort Richi by Capt. Soi In Novembe tal troops ai Gen. Prescoi summer resi liam Henry t to change it Berthier ers), and is amid rich i a N. W. C( Berthier ar Valois, an( and is the runs N. W County, sugar; ani lighthouse! somption Above the River (Riv from the C Vareniu and connei taut) by a issm^ ■^■■■^"rmiSKK^ I Hi ■aT^alSi^ I t I k ! 5 XA^ Montreal: .'). C). 7. H. U. 10. II 12. in. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 1!». C'l'ly Hall and Bon se cours Market PoM O/J'ice Court House. I'tt/tinean Market- Si. Ann's » St. Patricias HaU. Mililary School . ( 'ry.^ta l Puia fe. Cli II relies. .Cat hoi ic t'athedrttl . Notre Da me. Christ Church i'athedralM.i. O'esii (Jenuit'^ >. D.3. St. Patricks (CatJil. D.4. American . B.4 Tririty. F. 4. Xotrelhimc licBonsi-tivir.s- F. 5. Si .lamc! tCalhj . F. ;J. SI . (irortfe ( Epis.i C 4. Si. J'.tu'l ( /'rcf.) C.'l. F.3, F.4. .:4. IL4. D..1. D.4. F.4. ax (14. E.y 21. Arch b/.f hop's fa/ae-e. 2Z.Iilack Sunnery. Ih.irray %\. Seminary of'. St. Sulpiee 25. ,. PrieaLs. 26. St. Marys Cnflcffc. 27. Mc. Hill 28.MoLsans ?A O'ener^tl I[ox/tH..J. C. 'i. 11.4. IJM. E.l. B..1. I). 4. E.i». F.4. F.4. K.4. D.4. unnDQi UL i • ««iwc»wi«i5saa*Ei!M • t ! ' liii i I- : I i i'^ V 1. ■ 308 Jii E. end of town of N college, wi ings are si Riviere di (reached 1 man's Hot S. W. sho On lea^ archipelaj 7,500 inha fceveral sli mouth of Champlalj Navlgatio the Cham line at Uj adorned v elms are i FouRicl by Capt. S« In Noveml tal troops ( Gen. PresC' summer rei liam Henr3 to change i Berthie ers), and i amid rich a N. W. ( Berthier « Valois, ar and is th runs N. "V County, sugar; ai lighthous( somption Above th( River (Ri from the Vareni and connt tant) by I 2! J E ] I ]L r' L ?5?, ~,7 MONTREAL. Jioute 75. 309 carriages. The church is a large and stately buildiiifr, with two conspicu- ous towers. 1 M. from the village are the celebrated Vnrennes Springs, which are saline in character and possessed of valuable medicinal proper- ties. One of them emits great quantities of carbonated hydrogen gas, and the other yields 2-3 gallons a minute, and is much visited by invalids. Arraiigements are being made to establish a first-class summer resort at this point. Above Varennes is Boucherville, the birthplace of Chief Justice Sir Louis Hippolyte Lafontaine. The low and marshy islands off this shore are famous for duck-shooting, and for the ice-dams which form here at the close of the winter. Pointe aux Trembles is to the N., on the Island of Montreal, and is an ancient village dating from 1674. " We were gliding past Longueuil and Bouchcrville on the (left), and Pointe. aux Tremblex, ' so called from having been originally covered with aspens,' on the (right). I repeat these names not merely for want of more substantial facts to record, but because they sounded singularly poetic in my ears. There certainly was no lie in them. They suggested that some simple and perchaace heroic human life might have transpired there." (Tuoreau.) Clustering villages are now seen on either shore, and the river is strewn with low islands. At 9 M. above Pointe aux Trembles the steamer reaches her pier at Montreal, with the magnificent Victoria Bridge spanning tho river in front. 75. Montreal Hotels. — * St. Lawrence Hall, 139 Oreat St. James St. , accommodating 500 guests, $ 3.50 a day ; * Ottawa Hotel, 246 Great St. James St., $3.50 a day ; Montreal Hou e, Custom-Uousc Square, $2.50 a day ; Donncgana Hotel, Notre Dame St., $2.50 a day ; Albion Hotel, 141 McOill St., $ 2 a day ; Canada Hotel, St. Gabriel St., $ 2 a day (frequented by French Canadians) ; the American, 22 and 26 St. Joseph St., $ 2 a day. There are also numerous French hotels of the second class, among which are the Hotel Richelieu, 45 St. Vincent St. ; theMorrisseau, St. Paul St ; Hotel du Nord, 131 St. Paul St. ; and the Hotel Lepine, 151 St. Paul St. Montreal needs a modern first-class hotel. Sliops- — The most attractive are on Great St. James and Notre Dame Sts. Among the chief houses for clothing are Henry & Wilson, 236 St. James St. ; \V. Walsh & Co., 463 Notre T^ -e St. JDry goods and gloves, Brown & Claggct, corner Notre Dame and St. Helen Sts. ; Wm. McDunnough, 280 Notre Dame St. {laces a specialty) ; Thomas Mussen, 257 and 259 Notre Dame St. ; Ste. Marie Brothers, 454 Notre Dame St. Furs and hats, A. Brahadi, corner St. Lambert and Notre Dame SM. Jewelry, Savage, Lyman, & Co., 228 St. James St. ; E. G. Mellor, 285 Notre Dame St.; Alex. D. Daly, 426 and 428 Notre Dame St. The parlors of W. Notman, the cele- brated photographer (very high prices), are at 17 Bleury St. Turkish baths, Swedish movement and health-lift, at 140 St. Monique St., near the Crystal Palace. Amusements. — Theatre Royal, 19 Cott^ St., open usually during the sum- mer. Lectures are given at the Association Hall, corner of Craig St. and Victoria Square. Lectures and other entertainments are also given at the hall of the Me- chanics' Institute, 204 Great St. James St. Bit'iards, at Nordhcimer's Hall, Great St. James St. The Victoria Skating Rink, I rummond and Dorchester Sts., is famous for its winter carnivals. The Thistle Rhik is near the Crystal Palace. Keading-Rooms. — Young Men's Christian Association, Victoria Square; Merchants' Exchange, 11 St. Sacrament St. ; M •''hanics' Institute, 204 Great St. James St.; Institut Canadien, 111 Notre Dame St.; (Euvre des Bons Livres, 327 Notre Dame St. There is a circulating library at 666 Dorchester St. (Mrs. Hill's). Consuls. — United States, 145 Great St. James St.; Germany, 61 St. Sulpiro St. ; France, 75 Notre Dame St. ; Austro-Hungary, 61 St. Sulpice St. ; Italy, 158 Forti£catioa Lane ; Belgium, 873 Sherbrooke St. I II' h: ■}r. *i=i- ■I : 310 Route 75. MONTREAL. ^^^iii Post-Offlce, on Grmt St. Jnmcn St., nonr St. FrniK^ois Xavior St. Ttlr^rnph, centnil offlce of tho Mcutrottl TiU'grapli (Jomimii) , corner of St. Hacrauicnt autl St. Francois Xiivicr Sts. Cai-riaKe8. — (Onc-horso ) For 1-2 por.wn.v, witliin a rity division, Ifi rcnff ; bctwet!n two points in tlic city, 'I'tv. ; by tiit- liour, CMr , ami 20c. fur racli adili- tioiiiil 4 liour. Kor3-4 piirHons, witliin a city divi.«iiin. 2.'jc. ; lHtw<. en two point.- in tht. Sophie; St. Vincent de I'aul, Ma.scouche, Terrebonne, and St Sauveur ; PointeauxTrcniblcF, Sanlt au Recollet, and St. Martin. 8teainsliii>8. — The first-class ocean steamships of the Allan Line and the Do- minion Line leave Montreal 2-3 times wiekly during the season of navigation, for Liverpool and Glasgow. The Richelieu F.iine and the Union Line each run daily Bteauicrs to the lower livcr-ports and Quebec. The mornliigand evening trains to Ln- chlue connect wltn the steamboats for Ottawa, by way of the Ottawa River. The vessels of the Canadian Navigation Company ascend the St. Lawrence and Lake On- tario, from Montreal to the upper river-ports, Toronto and Hamilton. The St. HMne and Ottawa make semi-weekly trips to the Bay of Qulnte. Tlie Quebec & Gulf Ports S. S. Co. despatch a weekly steamer from Mont .al to Percf?, Charlotte- town, and I'ietou. The Cliiiryihly runs semi-weekly from Montreal to Terchtres, C'lntreco ir, Sorel,St. Ours, St. Denis, St.Antolne,St. Charles, St. Marc. St. Illlalre, Beloeil, Si Matthias, and Chanibly (90 M). The Three Riverx runs s* li-wcekly to Vercheres, Sorcl, Masklnong<^, Riviere du Loup en haiit, Yamacli, lie, Port St. Francis, Champlain, and Three Rivera. The Berthier runs semi-weekly to Repen- tlgny, St. Sulplce, Lavaltrle, Lanoralc, and Berthler. The Terre'ionne runs dally to Bouchervllle, Varennes, Bout de Tlsle, Lachenale, L'Assomjition, and Terrebonne (24 M.). Ferry steamers cross the river at frequent intervals to La Prairie, St. Lam- bert, and Longucuil. Montreal, the metropolis of the Dominion of Canada, and "the Queen of the St. Lawrence," is one of the most beautiful cities on the continent. It is situated on an island (at tho confluence of the Ottawa and St. Law- rence Rivers) containing 197 square miles, and which, from its fertility, has been called the Garden of Canada. The St. Lawrence is 1^ M. wide opposite the city, and the river-front is lined for over 1 M. with lofty and massive walls, quays, and terraces of gray limestone, unequalled else- where in the world, except at Liverpool, Paris, and St. Petersburg. The commercial buildings of the city are generally of stone, in plain and substan- tial architecture, and the number of fine public buildings is very large. Three fourths of the population are Catholics, most of whom are French, and the bright suburban villages are almost entirely inhabited by Frencl.mcu. i:> €'s MONTREAL. Route 75. 311 nlso r> O AlMioupli Montreal Is 800 "S\. from tho ?ca, it i* tho port wliicli rocoives tho preutor pit of the importations to Cunadii; nnd its nianufuoturinp interests nre extensive and important. The admirable systems of railway and steamboat communication of wliich Montreal is the centre have made it tho comnKicial emporium of the North; and new lines of trattic and in- ternal railways are being built from year to year, binding all the St. Law- rence counties to this city. Montreal forms tho Metropolitical See of tho Anglican Church in Canada, and is the capital of a Roman Catholic dio- cese. The water-supply, street-lamps, paving, and fire department are similar to those of American cities of the first nink. The population of Montreal was 107,225, at the census of 1871, and it now probably contains 160,000 inlKil)itants (including the populations of the closely connected suburbs). In 1870 its assessed valuation was $47,679,000; its imports, $25,680,814; and its exports, $19,100,413. In the same year 602 vessels arrived hero from the sea, and tho customs revenue was $ 4,128,052. The city has 19 banks, 02 churches, more than 30 news- papers and magazines (in English and French), and scores o^ societies of freemasons, antiquarians, sportsmen, nnfl cricket-players. There are numerous charitable and benevolent organizations, 6 building associations, 3 musical clubs, and societies for the English, Scotch, Irish, French, Ger- man, and New-England residents. The Victoria Square is a public ground at the intersection of McGill O'ld Great St. James Sts., ornamented with a founiain and a bronze statue 01 Queen Victoria. On its S. side is tho elegant Gothic building which pertains to the Young Men's Christian Association, the oldest society of that name in America. On the lower side of the Square are the stately Albert Buildings, devoted to commerce; and on tho N. are the ruins of the great Irish headquarters, St. Patrick's Hall. Passing to the N. E. along Oreat St. James St., the visitor sees many fine stores, and the attractive buildings of* Molson's Bantt (of Ohio stone and Scotch granite), the Merchants' Bank, the stately new * Post-Office, and other symmetrical ind solidly constructed edifices. This street is the Broadway of Montreal. St. Peter Sf. runs to the S. E. by the stately Caverhill Buildings (of cut limestone in Italian Palazzo architecture) to St. Paul St., the seat of an extensive wholesale trade. The Central We»- leyan Church, on Great St. James St., lias a fine organ. In this vicinity are the chief hotels of the city, the St. Lawrence and the Ottawa. Opposite the beautiful Corinthian colonnade of the Bank of Montreal (beyond St. Francois Xavier St., the Wall St. of Montreal) the Place d^Armes is seen. This square was so named because it was the parade- ground of Montgomery's American army in 1775. Here is the lofty front of the * Churoli of Notre Dame, the largest church on the continent, with seats for 8,000 persons on the floor and 2,000 in the galleries. It is 255i ft. long and 1444 ft. wide, and has a chancel window of stained glass it • I, \h:v 312 Route 75. MONTKEAL. 64 X 32 ft. in size. The interior is not strikinp;, nnd the pictures nro poor. There nre two towers on tlic front, ench 220 ft. higli, nnd, like the church, in the simplest form of modiajviil Gntliic nrcliitccture. One tower 1ms a chimo of bells, nnd in the other hnngs '* Gros Bourdon," the largest bell in Americn, weighing nenrly 15 tons. The tower is generally open (fee of 25 c. to the door-keeper), and nfTords from its summit n noble * view of the city nnd its environs (especially of the city nnd river, the Victoria Bridge, nnd the islands). The suburbs of Laprairio, Longueuil, nnd St. Lambert, the Lachino Rapids, nnd the blue mountains of Vermont, nro Been from this point. Alongside the church is the nncient Seminary of St. Sulpice, on the site of the Seminary of 1657, ns the church is nenr the site of the Notre Dnme of 1G71. The present church wns built in 1824-9, and wns consecrated by the Bishop of Telmesse in partihns. Tlie semi- nnry consists of low and massive buildings, surroundei' with gardens nnd court-ynrds of spotless nontness. It has 24 priests connected witli its various works. " I soon found my way to the Church of Notre Damn, T " w tb.xl U * .^s; of great bJzc and signified something Coming fiom tlie hnrraltir,; mcb u I t.e rattling carriages, we pushed back the listed door of this church, u.\i<1 fonutt .'-irselves in- stantly in an atmosphere which might be sacred to t.ioiigh. n <'♦ reliKiv.. f one had any It was a great cave in the midst of a city : ;>i i v.Ur.t wen- • '^«j altars and the tinsel but the sparkling stalnctics, into which >ou »=..Ari: i . •. . moment, and where the still atmosphere and the sombre light disposed to serious and profitable thought ? Such a cave at hand, which you can enter any day, is worth a thousand of our churches which are open only Sundays." (Tuoreau.) Fronting on the Place d'Armes are the elegant Ontario Bank nnd tho hall of the Grand Lodge of the Masons of Canada. A short distance to the E., on Notre Dame St., an archway on the r. admits one to the extensive and secluded Convent of the Black Nuns (founded in 1657). Farther on, the * Court House is seen on tho 1., — a stately stone building in Ionic architecture (300 X 125 ft.), back of which is the Champ de Mars, or Parade Ground, an open space covering 50,000 square yards, and ample enough for the display of 3,000 troops. The great structure fronting across Craig St. was built for the Dominion ^lilitary School, which is now estab- lished nt Kingston. The Museum of the Canadian Geological Survey Is on St. Gabriel St., opposite the Champ de Mars, nnd wns founded by Sir William Logan It contains a large collection of ores, building-stones, rare minerals, and one of the best palaeontological museums in America. Tlie new City Hall is to be erected on the E. side of the Champ de Mars. Just beyond the Court House the Jacques Cartier Square opens off Notre Damo St., and is encumbered with a dilapidated monument to Nelson. The Jacques Cartier Normal School (in the ancient French government build- ing) and the Institut Canadien (with a fine library) are near the head of this square. By the next side-street (St. Claude) to the r., the ^Bonsecours Mar- ket may be visited. This market is unrivalled in America, and is built :«r« ! nre poor. 10 church, 'wcr lifis a rpcst bell en (fee of * view of Victoria 1, nnd Sf. mont, are ninary of i near the 1 1824-9, rhc pemi- rdens and 1 witli its >.&; of great e rattling rselvps in- f one had altars and ment, and profitable thousand and tlie ce to tlie xtensivo rther on, in Ionic y/ars, or d ample ig across w estab- urvey Is 1 by Sir nes, rnre a. The s. Just 'e Dame 1. The t build- lead of s Mar- is built MONTREAL. Route 75. 313 ^ ^^ t\ of stone, in qufisl-Doric architecture, at a cost of $300,000. It is throe Rtorics hiph, has a lofty dome, and presents nn imposinj; front to tlio river. The curious French costumes and langUMj^o of tlic country people wiio consre-^atc here on market-days, as well as some peculiarities of the wares oflered for sale, render a visit very interesting. Alongside of the market is the Bonsecours Church (accommodating 2,000 persons), which was built in 1058. A short distance ijcyond arc the extensive Quebec-Gate Barracks, on Dalhousie Square; and the Victoria Pier makes out into the stream towards St. Helen's Isle (a fortified depot of ammunition and war materiel), which was named by Champlain in honor of his wife. To the N., on Craig St., is the attractive Vigor Garden, with a small conservatory and several fountains, fronting on which is Trinity Church (Episcopal), built of ^lontreal stone, in early English Gothic architecture, and accommo- dating 4,000 persons. N. of Trinity, and also on St. Denis St., is St. James Ciiurch (Catholic), in the pointed Gothic style, with rich stained glass. Some distance E. of Dalhousie Square, on St. Mary St., are Mol- fion's College (abandoned) and St. Thomas Church (Episcopal), with the great buildings of Molson'a brewery and the Papineau Market and Square (on which are the works of the Canadian Rubber Co.)- The suburb of llochelaga (see page 318) is about 1 M. beyond the Papineau Square. MoGill St. is an important thoroughfare leading S. from Victoria Square to the river. Considerable wholesale trade is done here and in the intersecting St. Paul St. The Dominion and Albert Buildings are rich and massive, and just beyond is St. Ann's Market, on the site of the old Parliament House. In 1849 the Earl of lillgin signed the obnoxious Rebellion Bill, upon which he was attacked by a mob, who also drove the Assembly from the Parliament House, and burnt the building. On ac- count of these riots, Montreal was decapitalized the same year. Com- missioners' St. leads E. by St. Ann's Market and the elegant Custom- House to the broad promenades on the river-walls. OttaAva St. leads W. to the heavy masonry of the Lachine-Canal Basins and the vicinity of the Victoria Bridge. Radegonde St. and Beaver-Hall Hill run N. from Victoria Square, passing Zion Church, where the Gavazzi riots took place in 1853. The armed congregation repulsed the Catholic assailants twice, and then the troops restored order, 40 men having been killed or badly wounded. Just above is the Baptist Church, overlooked by the tall Church of the Messiah (Unitari- an), with St. Andrew's Presbyterian Church on the r. A few steps to the r., Lagaucheti6re St. leads to St. Patrick's Church, a stately Gothic build- ing 240 X 90 ft., accommodating 5,000 persons, and adorned with a spire 225 ft. high. The nave is very lofty, and the narrow lancet-windows are filled with stained glass. Near by, on Bleury St., are the massive stone buildings of St. Mary's College (Jesuit; 9 professors) and the ^Churoll of the Gcsti. The nave of the church (75 ft. high) is bounded by rich 1-: w. lit fl •4 rs 'i i r 1 IriMi 1 ■■ n 'i . ,t 31 4 Route 75. MONTREAL. composite columns; and the tranpcpts nre 144 ft. long, and arc adorned with fine frescos in chiaroscuro. Over the High Altar is the Crucifixion, and the Adoration of th» Spotless Lan.b, abov*^ which is the Nativity. Against the cohimns at the crossing of the nave and transepts arc statues of St Mark with a lion, St. Matthew with an ox, St. Luke with a cliild, and St. John with au eagle On the ceiling of the nave arc frescos of St. Tlionias Repentant, the Bleeding Lamb, and the Virgin and Child amid Angelic Choirs. Medallions along the nave contain portraits of eight saints of tlie Order (f .Icsus. Over the Altar of the Virgin, in the 1. tpinsept, is a fres-co of the Trinii\ , near which is a painting of St. Aloysius Goni».„a receiving his first communion ftdni St. Charles Borromeo, Cardinal Archbishop of Milan. To the r. is a fre.«co of St. Ignatius Lojola in the Grotto of Manresa, and on the 1. is Christ' m Appearance to him near Rome, while above is Christ blessing Little Children. Over St. Joseph's Altar, in the r. trau>-ept, is a painting of the Eternal Father : on the r. of which is another picture, St. Stanislaus Kostka receiving Communion from Angel.-*. On the 1. IS a fresco of the Martyrdom of the Jesuits at Nagasaki (Japan) ; on the r is tlio Martyrdom of St. Andrew Bobola, in Poland ; and above is the Raising of Lazarus. Ou the ceiling is the Uoly Family at Work. Turning now to the VV. on St. Catherine St., one soon reaches * Christ Church Cathedral, the best representative of English Gothic architecture in America. It is built cf Montreal and Caen stone, and is 112 ft. long, and 100 ft. wide at the t''ansepts. A stately stone spire springs from tiie intersection of the navr and transepts, and attains a height of 224 ft. The choir is 46 ft. long, is paved with encaustic tiles, and contains a line stained-glass window. On either side are elaborately carved stalls lor the clergy; and the pointed roof of the nave (67 ft. high) is sustained liy columns of Caen stone whose capitals are carved to represent Canadi;in plants. In front of the cathedral is a monument to Bishop Fulford, innl on the N. is a quaint octagonal chapter-house, where the diocesan libniry is kept. The residence of the Lord Bishop (and Metropolitan of Ciinndii) is near this building. One square E. of the cathedral (corner of CatlicMrt and University Sts.) is the large and interesting Natural-History Museum, which is open to the public (fee, 25 c). The t^erricr Collection of I'^gypti: n Antiquities and the cases of Canadian birds are of much interest. Farther out on St. Catherine St. is the Crystal Palace. McGill University is about ^ M. from the cathedral, at the foot of Mount Royal. It was endowed in 1814 and opened in 1828, and has fac- ulties of Arts (9 professors), Medicine (10 professors), and Law (8 pro- fessors). The Medical School is N. of the main building, and the museum is worthy of a visit. The University is under the charge of Dr. J. W. Dawson (see page 138), and is the most flourishing institution of the kind in Lower Canada. The reservoir for the water-supply of Montreal is back of the University, 200 ft. above the river, and has a capacity of 15,000,000 gallons. The water is taken from the St. Lawrence, \\ SL above the Lachine Rapids, flows for 6 M. in an open canal, and is then forced up to the -eservoir by powerful machinery. A pleasant view of the cily inny be obtained from this terrace, and on the W. is Eavenscrafj, the mansidu of Sir Hugh Allan. t^ < MONTREAL. Route 01.3 arc adorned ?potles8 Lamb, the nave ami St. Luke wifli ; freficos of !»t. amid Aiigulic if the OrdiT of 3f the Trinity, [iiinunion fidin a froFco of St. Appearance to .T iSt. Joseph's e r. of whicli is ngels. On the oil tlie r is Hic lug of Lazarus. 3hes * Christ architecttiic i 112 ft. long, ngs from the '224 ft. The intains a fine red stalls for sustained liy ;nt Canadian Fulford, iiiul esan lihrary n of Ciinada) of Cathcart ory Afuseviiiy \ of Egyptian est. Farther . tlio foot of and has fac- Law (8 pro- the museum Df Dr. J. W. 1 of the kind treal is hack of 15,000,(100 d. above the forced up to ^he city may the numsion >^ Oi The * Great Seminary of St. Sulpice and the Montreal College are 5 JI. S. W. of the University, and front on the same street (Slierbro(d t^ mmaaBSBs MONTREAL. Route 4i>, Sl7 and over 600 ! orphans and ! r 600 found- iths die, and 3 of 12 years. | 5 which was irding-school unnery, wlio '^-0 was founded | on St. Cath- The chapel !cture, and is le handsome o the E. (on [ospice of St. re (122 nnns) ims are found ich, commer- \.merican en- Pdt St. James pel is a spa- enes from the 9, and is con- 1. There are ;hc nuns and bout 200 sick Tcnv. Bnptiste sc-cars on St. J>m city, and is a uresque cmi- and is being rtainly great. %^ y famous for ] those of the | d is traversed | 3ria Bridge is | 3 place Avhero ' -fever in the \ most costly ' c central one 830 ft.), resting on 24 piers of blue limestone masonry, cemented and iron- riveted, with sharp wedge faces to the down-current. The tubes contain- ing the track are 19 X 16 ft. and the bridge is approached by abutments 2,600 ft. long and 90 ft. wide, which, with the 6,594 ft. of iron tubing, makes a total length of 9,194 ft. from grade to grade and over 1^ M. from shore to shore. The bridge was commenced in 1854, and finished in 1859; it contains 250,000 tons of stone and 8,000 tons of iron, and cost $ 6,300,000. There is a beautiful view of the city from the central tube. In the early autumn of 1535 Jaques Cartier hoard, from the Indians of Quebec, of a greater town far up the river. The fearless IBreton chief took 2 boats and 50 men, and ascended the St. Lawrence to the Iroquois town of Hochelaga, occupying tlie present site of the metropolis of Canada. "Before them, wrapped in forests painted by the earlv frosts, rose the ridgy back of the Mountain of Montreal, and below, encompassed' with itscornf -ilds, lay the Indian town," surn-unded witli triple paUsades arranged for defence. The French were admitted within the walls and rested on the great public square, where the women surrounded th ;m in curiosity, and the sick and maimed were brought to them to be healed, " as if a god had come down among them." The warriors sat in grave silence w^Ue he read aloud tho Passion of our Saviour (though they understood not a >vord) ; thea presents were given to all the people, and the French trumpeters sounded a warlike melody. Tho Indians then guided their guests to the summit of the adjacent mountain, whence scores of leagues of unbroken forest were overlooked. Cartit-r gave to this fair emi- nence tlie name of Mont Royal, whence is derived the present name of the city. In 1603 this point was visited by the noble C'hamplain, but Ilcchelaga had disap- peared, and only a few wandering Algonquins could bo seen in the country. Tho Iroquois of the great town had been driven to the S. by the powerful Algonquins (such is the Mohawk tradition). At a later day a tax-gatherer of Anjou and a priest of Paris heard cel»=tial voices, bidding thpra to found a hospital (Hotel Dicu) aud a college of priests at Mont Rr>yal, and the voices were followed by apparitions of the Virgin and the Saviour, iilled with smred zeal, and brought together by a singular Bccident, these mtn won several nobles of France to aid their cause, then bought the Isle of Mont Royal, and formed the Society of Notre Dame de Montreal. With the Lordof Maisonneuve and 45 associat-'S, in a solemn service held in the Cathedral of Notre Dame de Paris, they consecrn'^ed the island to the Holy Family under the name of" Ville Marie do Montreal " (Feb., 1641). May 18, 1642, Maisonneuve and his people landed at Mon- treal and raised an altar, before which, when high mass was concluded, the pric.t said, " You are a grain of mustard-seed that shall arise and grow until its branches overshadow the land. You are few, but your wor'^- is the work of God. Hi.- smile is on you, and your children shall fill the land." The Hotel Dicu was founded in 1647, and in 1657 the Sulpicians of Paris established a seminary here. In 1689, 1,400 Iroquois Indians stormed the western suburbs, ami killed 200 of the in- habitants, and a short time afterwards Col. Schuyler destroyed Montreal with troops froih New York, leaving only the citadel, which his utmost efforts could not reduce. In 1760 Lord Amherst and 17,000 men captured the city, which then had 4,000 in- habitants, aud was surrounded by a wall with 11 redoubts and a citadel. In 1775 Ethan Allen attacked Montreal with u ' '•"nl of Vermonters, and was defeated and captured, with 100 of his men. Uen ' t sent them to England as " banditti," and Allen was imprisoned iu Pendeu. Oastle. In the fall of 1775 the city was taken by the American army under (Jon. Montgomery. With the close of the War of 1812, a brisk commerce set in, and the city grew rapidly, having, in 1821, 18,767 inhabitants. The completion of tho Orand Trunk llivilway greatly benefited this place, and its increase lia.s for many years been steady, substantial, ' .v^I rapid. In 1832 the cholera destroyed 1,843 persons, out of a population of 30,(,oO ; a.id in 1852 a large part of tho city was burned. 80 years ago vessels of over 3(»0 tons could not reach Montreal, but a ship-channel has been cleared by the exertions of the mer- chants (headed by Sir Hugh Allan), and now the city is visited regularly by ocean steamships of 4,000 tons, aud by the largest vessels of the merchant-marine. "?7> '; ti' :i! ■i i ,j ■ ! .. i ^ * : i 318 RoiUcTG. "AROUND THE MOUNTAIN." 76. The Environs of Montreal. Montreal is situated on tho S. E. side of the island of Montreal, which is 28 M. long, 10 M. wide, and 70 M. around. It is divided into 10 pur- islics, and is composed of fertile and arable soil, supporting a dense pop- ulation. The favorite drive is that * "Around the Mountain," aaistance of 9 M. The road passes out by tlie Hotel Dieu and through the suburb of St. Jv^an Bapcistc (wlience a road runs E. to the limestone-quarries at Cole St. Michel). At Mile-End tlie carriage turns to the 1. and soon passes tlie avenue wliich leads (to the 1.) to tlie Mount Royal Cemetery. The road ascends to higher grades, and beaiitiful views open on the N. and W., including 13 villages, the distant shores of the Isle of Jesus, and the bright waters of Lake St. Louis and the Lake of the Two Mountains. On a clear day the spires of the Catholic College of St. Therese are seen, several leagues to the N., beyond the Rivi»;ro aux Chiens. The village of Culi'; (Its Neiges (three inns) has an antique church, and is occupied by 1,200 inhabitants. It was first settled by families from Cotd des Neiges in Trance, which derived its name from a legend tliat a miraculous cruci- form fall of snow took place there in August, marking the place on which a pious citizen afterwards built the Church of Notre Dame des Neiges. From this village the inter-mountain road leads E. to Montreal. On the lower slope of Mount Royal a platform has been built on the wall of the Seminary grounds, from which a beautiful *view is obtained. (The usual charges for the ride around the mountain are $1.50 for 2-3 persons, in a cab, or $2 for 4 p'^rsons; for a two-horse carriage, $4, for 1-4 persons.) A road turns to the r. from Cote des Neiges and passes around the bold highlands S. of Mount Royal, through fair rural scenery. Beyond the hamlet of Cvte St. Luc it reaches Cote St. Antoine, the seat of the fine building and grounds formerly known as Monklands, when the home of Governor-General Lord Elgin. It is now called Villa Maria, and is occu- pied by the black nuns as a boarding-school. There are 25 sisters and i-2 pupils, most of whom are from the United States. Opposite Villa Mn.'io is the Church of St. Luc. The short road from this point to tho city ii-' made interesting by beautiful views and fair villas, and for i M. e "ror passing the toll-gate it skirts the Seminary grounds. riie Sault au Becollet is 7 M. W. of Montieal, on the Rivil-re des Pniiries, and is frequently visited for the sake of its picturesque rapids. Picnic parties occuj)/ the forest-covered Priests' Island, whence the de- scent of rafts may be observed. The Convent of the Sacred Heart is beautifully situated amid pleasant grounds near the river. Opposite Sault au RecoUet is the Isle Jesus, which is nearly 25 M. long, and contains the villages of St. Martin, St. Rose de Lima, and St. Vincent de Paul (near which is the Provincial Reformatory Prison). Hoohelaga is at the N. E. end of the Alontreal horse-car line, and is ^ i/^i ^3» J^ LACniXE RAPIDS. Route 7G. 319 nti'eul, Avhicli into 10 pur- ; a dense pop- 1," a distance tIi the suburb ne-quarrics at id soon passes metery. The 16 N. and W., ind the bright s. On a clear seen, several I'illage of Cole pied by 1,200 3es Nelges in Lculous cvuci- lace on which e des Nelges. treal. On the lie wall of the 1. (The usual t persons, in a -4 persons.) ound the bold Beyond the it of the fine II the home of ,, and is occu- 25 sisters and )ppc.site Villa s point to the and for i M. 3 Eivitre des •esque rapids, hence the de- crcd Heart is )l>posite Sault and contains de Paul (near ir line, and is I the point where the Northern-Colonization and North-Shore Rail'.i-ays are to terminate. It has a good harbor on the St. Lawrence, below the Rapid ^ of St. ^hiry. There are several fine villas here, and the * Convent of the \ Sacred Name of Jesus and Mary 1% the most extensive monastic institu- tion in Canada. Hochelaga is 3 M. from the Victoria Bridge; and 3-4 M. farther E. is Longue Point, near which the late Sir George E. Cartier resided. The river-road gives views of Longueuil, Boucherville, and k^ Vareiines, on the S. shore. Lachine (three hotels) is 9 M. S. W. of Montreal, and is a favorite summer-resort of the citizens. The river-road is very picturesque; and the upper road runs through the manufacturing town called Tannery West, which has over 4,000 inhabitants. Visitors usually go out on one road and return by the other. Lachine is at the foot of Lake St. Louis, and is noted for its annual regattas. It was so named by Cluimplain in 1G13, because he believed that beyond the rapids the river led to China {La Chine). In 1689 the Iroquois Indians destroyed the French town here, with all its inhabitants, 200 of whom were burnt at the stake. Opposite Lachine is the populous village of Caiujhnawaga, inhabited by about 500 of the orderly and indolent descendants of the Iroquois Indians, who are governed by a council of seven chiefs. The * Lachine Rapids may be visited by taking the 7 A. m. train (at the Bonaventure station) to Lachine, where a steamer is in waiting, by which the tourist returns through the rapids to Montreal. After taking a pilot from Caughnawaga, the steamer passes out. " Suddenly a scene of wild grandeur bursts upon the eye. Waves are lashed into spray and into breakers of a thousand forms by the subuicrgec' rocks which they are diushed against in tie headlong impetuosity of the river. Whirlpools a storm- lashed sea, the chasn> below Niagara, all mingle their sublimity in a single rapid. Now passing with lightning speed within a few yards of rocks, which, did your ves- sel but touch them, would reduce her to an utter wreck before the crash could sound upon the ear ; did she even diverge in the least from her course, — if her head were not kept straight with the course of the mpid, — she would be instantly submerged and rolled over and over. Before us is an absolute i)rccipicc of waters ; on every side of it breakers, like dense avalancht s, are thrown hish into the air. Ere we can take a glance at the scene, the boat descends the wall of waves and foam like a bird, and in a second afterwards you arc floating on the calm, unruffled bosom of ' below the rapids.' " The steamer then passes under the central arch of the Victoria Bridge (see page 31i)), and opens an imposing panoramic *view of the city. (Tickets for the round- trip cost 50 c. ; and the tourist gets back to Montreal about 9.30 a. m ) The Belceil Mountain may be visited in a day by taking the Grand Trunk Railway to Beloeil (22 M.), whence the mountain is easily n- ■> led, passing a pretty little lake. On this peak (1,400 ft. above tL ot. Law- rence) the Bishop of Nancy erected an oratory surmounted by a huge tin- 4 covered cross which was visible for over 30 M. The cross was blown down, ; several years ago. The *view from Beloeil includes a radius of 60 ;M. over the fertile and thickly settled ))lains of the St. Lawrence Valley, with the •6» blue mountains of Vermont far aw^y in the S. K. The Boucherville Moun- ^ tain I?, reached from St. Bruno, a station on the Grand Trunk Railway, «> ') In'.; '■ i . n^'. I ^1 320 r.oide 76. OTTAWA. and commands fine views. There nre 10 lakes on this ridge, one of which, the Manw Lake, is on a level with the top of the towers of Notre Dame, in Montreal. St. Anne {du Bout de Vlsle) is 21 M. S. W. of Montreal, and may bo reached in an hour by the Grand Trunk Railway. It is a village of 1,000 inhabitants, with two inns, and has an ancient church which is much revered by the Canadian boatmen ard voyageurs. Manj' of the people of Jlontrcal visit this place during the summer. The village is at some dls- --r^ tance from the railway, between Lake St. Louis (of the St. Lawrence) and the Lake of the Two Mountains (of the Ottawa River). The Ottawa is here crossed by a fine railway-bridge, resting on 16 stone piers; and the famous Rapids of St. Anne are flanked by a ianal. Here Tom Moore wrote his Canadian Boat-Song, beginning: — *' Faintly as tolls the evening chime, Our voices keep tune, and our oars keep time. Soon as the woods on shore look dim We'll sing at St. Anne's our parting hymn. How, brothers, row ; the stream runs fast, Tlie Rapids arc near, and the daylight 's past. " Uttawa's tide ! this trembling moon Shall see us float o'er thy surges soon. Saint of this green isle ! hear our prayers ; O, grant us cool heavens and favoring airs ! Blow, breezes, blow ; the stream runs fast, ^^ The liapids are near, and the daylight 's past." Steamers run daily up the Ottawa River to Ottawa (Russell Hotel), the capital of Canada. The Canadian ** Parliament House is situated on a lofty bluff over the Ottawa Ilivcr, and is the finest specimen of Italian Gothic architecture in America or the world. The great * Victoria Tower in the centre of the fagade is im- posing in its proportions ; and the polygonal structure of the Dominion Library is in the rear of the buildings. The halls of the Senate and Chamber of Commons ura worthy of a visit, and are adorned with stained-glass windows and marble columns. In the Senate is a statue of Queen Victoria, and near the vice-regal throne are busts of the Prince and Princess of Wales. The departmental buildings which flank the Parliament House are stately structures, in harmonious architecture, and of the same kinds of stone. The Cathedral of Notre Dame and the nunneries of the lower town are interesting ; also the new churches of the middle town (which, like the rest of the city, is still undergoing a formative process). The **Cliauclier« Falls arc just above the city, where the broad Ottawa River plunges down over long and ragged ledges. In this vicinity are immense lumber-yards, with the con- nected industries which support the French Canadians, who form the majority of the citizens here. S. of the city are the pretty liideau Falls. Steamers depart fre- quently for Montreal, and for the remote forests of the N. ^ The river and city of Ottawa are fully described in the companion to this hand-book, Osgood's Middle States ("with the Northern FrontlcM- from Niagara Falls to Montreal; also, Baltimore, Washington, and North- ern Virginia"), which was published in 1874 and revised in 1875. It also includes descriptions of the Upper St. Lawrence and Lake Ontario, Lake Champlain and Lake George, and the routes from New York to Montreal. Osgood's New England contains also descriptions of Northern Vermont and New Hampshire, and the routes between Boston and Montreal or Que- bec (published in 1873, and revised in 1874 and 1875). )ne of which, Notre Dame, and may be llage of 1,000 lich is much the people of at some dis- iwrence) and lie Ottawa is ers; and the Tom Moore INDEX tel), the capital n a lofty bluff architecture in le fagade is im- ni Library is in f Commons are arble columns, ironc are busts ^hich flank tlio re, and of the es of the lower which, like tlie *CliaucHere igee down over , with the con- he majority of lers depart fre- lompanion to lern Frontier I, and North- L875. It also )ntario, Lake to Montreal, ern Vermont treal or Qiie- ■■^■S «: » 1^ ^ Abattis, P. Q. 292. Advocate Harbor 103, 80. Agulquac River 54. Ainslie Glen 1(57, 169. Albert Bridge, C. B. 154. Albert Mines, N. B. 72. Alberton, P. E. I. 179. Albion Mines, N. S. 136. Aldouin Kivcr, 60. Alemek Bay, N. B. 63. Alexander Point 63. Alexis lllver225. Allagash River, Me. 58. Allandale, N. B. 52. Alright Id. 184. Alston Point, N. B. 65. Amherst, N. S. 78, 74. Amherst Id. 183. Ancienne Lorette 281, 279. Andover, N. B. 54. Ange Gardien, P. Q. 283. Annandale, P. E. I. 182. Annapolis Basin, N. S. 84. Annapolis Royal 85. Annapolis Valley 88. Anticosti 234. Antigonish, N. S. 138. Apohaqui, N. B. 71, 48. Apple River, N. S. 80. Apsev Cove, N. F. 210. Aquafort, N. F. 198. Ardoise Mt.,N. S. 93. Argentonay, P. Q. 290. Argyle, N. S. 116, 125. Arichat, C. B. 145. Arisaig, N. S. 139. Aroostook Valley, Me. 55. Arthurette, N. B. 54. Aspotogon Mt., N. S. 127. Aspy Bay, G. B. 160. Athol, N. B. 80. Atlantic Cove, C. B. 160. Aulac, N. B. 74. Avalon, N. F. 198, 209. Avonport, N. S. 91. Aylesford, N. S. 89. Aylestbrd Lakes 90. * BaccaUeu Id. , N.F. 201 , 205, 14* Baccaro Point, N S. 123. Baddeck, C. B. 162. Baddeck River, 167. Bagotville, P. Q. 3l>2. Bale des Rochers, P. Q. 295. Bale St. Paul, P. Q. 292. Bale Verte, N S. 74. Ballard Bank, The 199. Ballyhaly Bog, N, F. 195. Bangor, Me. 39. Barachois, N. B. 59. Bareneed, N. F. 207. Barnaby Id., P. Q. 250. Karra, Strait of 164. Barr'd Ids., N. F. 210. Barrow, N. F. 214 Barrow Harbor 203. Barton, N. S. 112. Basin ofMinas 101, 108. Basque Harbor 183. Basque Island 251. Bass River 81. Bathurst, N. B. 65, 61. Batiscan, P. Q. 307. Batteau Harbor 225. Battery Point, N. B. 08. Battle Id., Lab. 224, 200, 206. Bay, Argyle, N. 8. 116. Belleisle, N. B. 42. Bonavista, N. F. 203. Bonne, Lab. 219. Bradore, Lab. 230. Bulls, N. F. 194, 197. Canada, N. F. 221. Cardigan, P. E. I. 175. Conception , N . F . 195 , 206. De Grave, N. F, 207. DuVin,N. B. 61. East, C. B. 147. Esquimaux, Lab 230. Eternity, P. Q. 308. Fortune, N. F. 214. Garia. N. F. 21;') Ha Ha, P. Q. 301. Hairs, N. F.211. Hermitage, N. V. 215. Hillsborough 174, 175. Ingornachoix 2lJ. Kenuebecasis iCf. Bay, Little, N. F. 215. Mahone, N. S. 118, 127. Miramichi, N. B. 61. Oak, N. B. 34. ofOhaleur64, 240. of Despair 215. of Fair and False 203. of Fundy 31,83. of Islands 218. ofNotreDame, N.F. 210. ofSt. John 219. Placcntia, N. F. 212. Richmond, P. E. 1. 178. Roberts, N.F. 207. St. Anne's, C. B. 158 St. George's, N. F. 217. St. John's, P. Q 304. St. Margaret's 12(5, 118. St. Mary's 112, 213. Sandwich, Lab. 225. Trinity, N. F. 208, 201. Vcrd, N. F. 201, 208. White, N. F 221. Beach, The 206. Bear Cove 93. Bear Point 143. Bear River 85. Beaubair's Id., N. B. 63. Beauliou, P. Q 289. Beaumont, P. Q. 254. Beauport, P. Q. 27(5. Beaver Bank, N. S. 93 Beaver Harbor, C. H. 162. Beaver Harbor, N. B. 31 Beaver Harbor, N. S. 132. Beaver River 114. Becancour, P. Q. 307. BedequeBav '». E. I. 174 Bedford Basin, N. S lOo. Bellechasse Id. 254. Belledune, N. B, (5i3. Belle Isle 220, 200. Bellei.*le Bay, N. B. 42. Bell Isle, N. F. 221. Belleorem, N. F. 214. Bellivcau Cove, N. S. 112. Bellivoau Village 73. BelniiilMt.. P. d 319. Beuaeadie Poiut lti5. U I 1 1 : 1 322 Benmore 280. Beraiiiiis Uiver 233. Bcrtliier en has 'AM. Berthier en haul au8. Berwick, N. S.W. Bic Id.,l>. Q. 251. Big Loran, (!. B. \rA. Big Tancook M. 128. Biquctte, P. Q. 251. Birch Point (54. Birclitown.N, S. 121. Bird Island Cove 2U2. Bird Isles 184. Bird Hock 161. Black Bay 228. Black Brook Gl. Blackhead 1« 201, 225, 301. d218 nee 160, 170. el 225. las 2a3. 18, 93. . B. 159. F. 1S9, 196. 04, 83. J Cnpc Pplit, N. S. 104. Touruiente 287, 253. Tounneiitine 59, 73, 174. Travernc 174. Trinity, P. Q. 303. Try on, P. E. 1. 178. Yii'toria, P. Q. 304. Wc.^it 302. "Whittle, Lab. 230. Wolfe 179. Caplin Cove 198. Caraquette 66, 62, Carbonear, N. F. 208. Cardigan, N. B. 50. Cardigan, P. E. I. 181. Caribacon 145. Caribou Id. 175, 224. Caribou Plain.** 80. Caribou Point 233. Carleton, N. B. 24. Carlcton, P. Q. 239. Carrousel Id. 233. Cascai)ediac Bay 240. (;a.scunip<'c 180. Castle Id., I.ab. 227. Catalina, N. F. 201. Catalogue, C. B. 154. Cataracouy 280. Cat Cove 221. Caughnawaga 319. Cavendish, P. E. 1. 178. Caverne de Bontemps 290. Cawec Ids. 233. Central Falmouth 91. Centre Hill 209. Chaleur, Bay of, 64,240. Chamcook Mt. 33. Cham plain, P. Q. 307. Chance Harbor 31. Change Ids. 205, 210. Channel, N. F. 216. Chapel Id., C. B. 147. Charlesbourg, P. Q. 279. Charlottetown.P. E. 1.175. Chateau Bay, T^b. 227. Chateau Beilevue 287. Chateau Bigot 280. Chateau Richer 284. Chatham, N. B. 61, 66. Chaudiere Falls 282. Chebucto Head 93. Chedabucto Bay 143. Chester, N. S. 127,90. Cheticamp, C. B. 170. Cheticamp, N. S. 114. Chezzetcook.N. S. 131. Chicoutiuii, P. Q. 300. Chignecto, Cape, 104. Chignecto Peninsula 79. Chimney Tickle 227. Chiputneticook Lalces,N. B 38, 40. Chivirie 93, 102, 106. Chouse Brook 221. INDEX. ribouxlds. 161. ("lairvaux, I' (i. 292. Clare, N.S. 113. Clarendon, N. B. 38. Clementsport, N. S. 85. Cleneutsvale 85. Clifton, N. B. 66, 71. Clode Sound 203. (Moridornio 248. Clouds, The, 221. Clyde River, N. S. 124. Coacoeiio River 231. CobeiiuidMt'!., N. S. 80. Cocagne, N. B. 59. Colebrooke, N. B. 55. Cole's Id. N. B. 47. Colinet, N. F. 213. Columbe 215 Conception Bay 195, 206. Concho, N. F. 221. (^ontrecoeur, P. Q. 308. Corbin.N. F. 214. Cornwallis Valley, N. S. 90, 103, 107. Corny Beach 243. Cote' deBeaupre, 283. des Neiges 318. St. Antoinc 318. ■ St. Luc 318. St. Michel 318. Cottel's Id. 203. Coudres, Isle aux 298. Country Harbor 183. Covehead,P. E I. 181. Cow Bay 101,150,153. Cox'8 Point 49. Crabb's Brook 217. Crane Id., P. Q. 253. Crapaud, P. E. 1. 174, Creignish 168. Croque, N. F. 221. Cross Id., N. S. 118. Cumberland Bav 49. Cumberland IlaVbor 230. Cupids, N. F. 207. Dalhousie, N. B. 67. Dalibaire, P. Q. 249. Dark Cove, 80. Dartmouth, N. S. 101. Dauphinev's Cove 126. Davis Strait 226. Dead Ids. 216, 225. Dcadman's Isle 184. Debec Junction 37. Debert 80, 105. Deep Cove 127. Deerfield, N. S 115. Deer Harbor 209. Deer Isle, N. B. 25. Deer Lai e .37. Deer Pond 219. Demoiselle Hill 1S3. Denys River, C. B. 165. 323 Dc Sable 174. Descente des Fcmmes 302. Desehanibault 3(i6. D'l'iscous.'ie, C. B. 145. Despair, Bay of. 215. Despair, Cape, 241. Devil Id. 93. Devil's Back,N. B. 41. Devil's (ioose-Pasture 90. Devil's Head 34. Diablo Bay 228. Digbv, N. S. 84. Digby Neck 116. Dipper Harbor 31. Distress Cove 212. Dodding Head 214. Dollannan Bank 202. D'Or, Cape, N. S. 103. Dorchester, N. B. 73. Doucet's Id. N. B. 34. Douglas Harbor 49. Douglastown, N. B. 02. Douglastown, P. Q. 244. Douglas Valley 38. Dumfries, N. B. 52. Dundas, N. B. 59. Dundas, P. E. I. 182. Dunk River 174. Earltown,N. S. 136. East Bay 147, 165, 214. Eastern Passage 93. F:ast Point 182. Eastport, Me. 26. East River 126, 225. Eboulements, Les, 294. Echo Lake 131. Economy Point 1G5, 80. Ecureuils, Les, 306. Eddy Point 143. Edniundston, N. B. 57. Edoobekv.k, C. B. 147. Kel Brook 30. Egg Ids., Lab. 233. EkumSekum, N. S. 132. Ellershouse, N. S. 93. Elliot River 174. Elmsdale, N. «. 82. Elysian Fields, N. S. 79. Enfield, N. S. 82. English Harbor 201. English Harbor West 214. English Point 233. Englishtown, C. B. 158. Enniskillen, N. B. 38. Entry Id. 184. Escasoni, C. B. 148. Escuminac Point 61. Esquimaux Bay 230, 244. Eternity Bay 303. Exploits Id. 205, 210. Exploits, River of 210. Factory Dale, N S. 89. Fairville, N. B. 37. "7^^ 32t INDEX. ill? I 'It'..- Fnirv Lake, N. S. 130. Fiilkland, N. S. i»0, !t;j. l-'alls, (MmudiiTf! 2S'2, ,320. (Miicniitimi, V. (I. 300. (Iriiiid r/), t)t5. Grand, N. F.210. Orando-Mere 3()7. LorotU', P. Q. 278. Ma^iiKUiidiivic .32. Maiiitousin 232. Montnioreiici 277. Nictuu, N. S 89. North Uiver 105. I'ahincau, N. U. 66. Pokiok, N. B. 52. I'oUett 72. llideau, Ont. 320. Uiviere du Loup 295. Ilivierc du Sud 2r)3. St. Anne, P. Q. 286. Sault i la Puce 284. Shawanepan 307. i. bor 209. 124, 214, 252. I. 229. . .' 57. d, N. r. 203. 80. Hill 41. [Iar»)or 178. ov(- 248. F.221. . B. 42. c Id. 183. , P. Q. 306. L' 254. )({Wis 113. 121. iiso 142. igh 133. Biv 143. y, i'. Q. 301. I. S 93. ty House 97. al 98. D6. io Coll. 98. ouse 98. 93. Gardens 98. i9i} ent Buildinj: 95. ial Building 95. ; Dockyard 97. . A. 96. ►. E. I. 179. f 211,218. ra Plains 100. , N. B. 71. , N.S. 89. t. N. S. 91, 101. riton 214. uffet 212. race, N. P. 207. le, N. S. 90. , N. F. 221. H Harp Id, p. Q.252. llarc'H Kars 198. llaro's-Ik-ad Ilill.x218. Harniouy, P. 11. I. 182. Harvey, N. B. 38. Harvey Corner 72. Ihiulover I.sthnum 14G. Haveiock, N. H. 89. Head of Amherst 78. Heart Kidge,N. F. 210. Heart's Content 208. Heart's Delight 209. Heart's Desire 209. Heart's Ease, N. F. 209. Hehertville. P. Q. 300. Hebron, Lab. 220. Heights of Laud 226. Hell Hill 197. Hermitage Bay 215. Herring Cove, N. S. 93. High Beaeon 227. Highland Park 23. Highland Village 81. High Point 301. Hillsborough, N. B. 72. Hillsborough Bay 174. Ilill.sborough lliver 180. Hillsburn 86. Hoohclaga, P. Q. 318. Hodge-Water lliver 213. Holland Bay, 180. Holyrood.N.F. 199. Holyrood Pond 213. Hooping Harbor 221. Hope, P. Q. 241. Hope All, N. F. 209. Hopedale, Lab. 226. Hopewell 136. Hopewell Cape 72. Hor:on Landing 91. Houlton, Me. 37, 51. Howe's Lake 23. Hudson's Strait 226. number lliver 219. Hunter lliver 177, 178. Indian Bay 167, 203. Indian Beach 30. Indian Gardens 130. Indian Id., Lab. 225. Indian Ids. 210. Indian Lorotte 278. Indian Tickle 225. Indian town, N. B. 47. Indian Village 51. Ingonish,C. B. 159. Intervale 133 lonclay Hill 197. Iri.«h Cove, C. B. 147. Ironbound Cove, N. B 49. Ironbound Id., N. S. 119. Island, Alright 184. Amherst 183. Anticosti 234. INDEX. Wand,Bacralieu,N.F. '01 Itanial.y, I'. (2. 200. Ilcauliair'.-' 03. I{elleelia.«.-^e254. Hie, P. (l 250. Bhukl.ill 227. Bonaventuif 243. Bon Porfnge 124. Boughtoii 175. Boularderie Kil. Brantly Pots 202. Brier il7. Brunet 214. Brjon 184. CampobelU, 25. Caie Breton 141. Cape .Sable 123. Caribou 175, 224. Carrousel l^i. Castle, Lub. 227. Caton's 41. Cawee 'Iliii. Chapel 147. Cheticamp 170. Cheyne 29. Christmas 1()4. Cobbler's 203. Coffin 184. Cole's 47. Cotters 203. Crane, P. Q. 253. Cro.ss.N. S. 118. Dead,N. F. 225. Beer 203. Devil, N. S. 93. Egg, Lab. 233. Entry 184. Esquimaux, Lab. 231. Exploits, N. F. 205, 210. Fair, N. F. 203. Fishtlake 227. Fly 225. Fogo, N.F. 204,210. Foster's, N. B. 41. Fox, N. B. 61. Funk, N. F. 203. George 179. George's, N. S. 98. Goat, N. S. 85 Goose, P. Q. 253. Governor's 175. Grand Dune 61. Grand Manan 28. Grassy, N. B. 41. Great' Caribou 224. Green 124, 201, 220,252. Grimross, N. U. 43. Grindstone 72, 183. Grosse 184. Hare, P. Q. 252. Henry 169. Heron 67. Hor.\ miM Island, VIn, N. B Gl, White Head 20. White Horse 31. Wolf 184. Wood IMllar 253. Island.^, Rattle 224. Burnt 215. Camp 227. Ciboux 161'. Dead 215. Five 105. Little St. Modeste 228. Magdalen 183. Mingan 231. Mutton 124. Penguin 203. Ragged 212. Uamea 215. Ram's, N. F. 212. Red 147. Seal 225. Seven, Lab. 232. Tancook, N. S. 128. Tusket, N. 3. 125. Isle aux Cbiens 185. aux Coudres 293. Bell, N. F. 221. Belle 206, 220. Deadman's 184. Deer, N. B. 25. Oroais 221. Haute 104. Jesus 318. Madame 145. of Orleans 288. St. Louis 304. St. Therese 308. Verte, P. Q. 252. Isles, Bird 184. Burgeo 215. de la Demoiselle 230. Gooseberry 203. Passe Pierre 305. Peterel 227. Twillingate 205. Wadham, N. F. 203. West, N. B,25,31. Jackson's Arm 221. Jacksonville, N. S. 90. Jaques Cartier306. Jebogue Point 125. Jeddore, N. S. 132. Jemseg, N. B. 42, 48. Jerscyman Id. 145. Jesus, Isle 318. Jeune-Lorette 278. Joe Batt's Arm 210. Joggins Shore 80. Jolicoeur, N. B. 73. Jollette, P. Q. Jonquiero 300. Judique, C. B. 168. Julianshaab, Or. 226. Kamouraska, P. Q. 252. Keels, N. F. 203. Kcgashk»> "«" 2.31. Kempt Head 102. Kempt, N. S. 115. Kempt Lake, N. S. 90. Kcnnebccasis Bay 40, 22. Kcnogami, P. Q. 300. Ken.<tion, P. Q. 308. Laval River 299. Lavaltrie, P. Q. 808. La Vicille 2i6. Lawlor's Lake 70. Lawrencetown 89, 131. Lazaretto, Tracadie 62. Ledge, The 35. Loitchfield, N. S. 86. Lennox Id. 179. Lennox Passage 145. Lcs Eboulements 294. Les Ecureuils 306. Ijcs Escoumains 288. L'EtangduNordl84. L'Etang du Savoyard 185. L'Etang Harbor 31. Letitc Passage 32. Levic, P. Q. 282. Lewey's Id. 35. Lewis Cove 47. Lily Lake 22. Lingan 152, 150. Lion's Back 23. Liscomb Harbor 1S2. L'lalot, P. Q. 253. L'Tslet au Massacre 250. Little Arichat 145. Little Bay Id. 206, 211. Little Bras d'Or 161. Little Falls 67. Little Glace Bay 153. Little Ila Ha Lake 302. Little Ix)ran 154. Little Miquelon 186. Little Narrows 167. Little Pabos 241. Little Placentia 212. Little River 22. Little Rocber 72. Little Saguenay 304. Little St. Lawrence 214. Little Scldom-come-by 210. Little Shemogue 69. Little Tancook 128. Liverpool,N.S. 120,130. Lobster Harbor 221. Loch Alva 37. Loch an Fad 147. Loch Lomond, C. B. 147. Loch Lomond, N. B. 22. Lochside, C. B. 147. Loch Uist 147. Locke's Id, N. S. 121. Logic Bay 195, 200. Londonderry 106. Long Id. 40, 42, 101, 117. Long Pilgrim 252. Lorig Point 231. Long Range 217. Long Reach 41. Long's Eddy 30. Longue Point 319. Lorctte, Indian 278. Lotbiaiire, P. Q. 306. Louisbourg. C. B. 154, 149. Loup Bay 228. Low Point 168. Lower Canterbury 52. Lower Caraquette 66. Lower French Vill 51. Lower Horton 107. Lower Middleton 89. Lower Prince Wihiam 51. Lower QueensVury 61. Lower Woodstock 52. Lubec, Me. 26. Ludlow, N. B. 47. Lunenburg 118, 128. Mabou, C. B. 169. Mabou Valley 168. McAdam June. 38. Maccin, N. 8. 80, 79. Mace's Bay 31. McNab's Id. 101, 93. Madawaska 57. Magaguadavic River 32. Magdalen Ids. 183. Magdelaine, Cape 248. Maguacha Point 67, 239. Magundy, N. B.61. Mahogany Road 24. Mahone Bay 127, 118. Main-A-Dieu 150. Maitland 82, 105, 129. Malaga Lake 130. Malagawdatchkt 165. Malbfiic, P. Q. 294. Mai Bay 244. Malcolm Point 01. Malignant Cove 139. Malpeque Harbor 178. Manchester, N. S. 133. Manicouagan 233, 250. Manitousin Falls 232. Maquapit Lake 48. Marchmont 280. Margaree River 167. Margaree Forks 170. Margaretsville 89. Maria, P. Q. 240. Marie .Toseph 132. Marion Bridge 154. Marshalltown 112. Mars Head lli. Mars Hill 54. Marsh Road 22- Marshy ir t)el38. Mascarene 32. Masstown 81. Matane, P. Q. 249. Mattawamkeag 39, 58. Maugerville. N. B. 43. Mealy Mts. 225. Meccatina, Lab. 230. Mcdisco, N. B. 66. Mcductic Rapids 52. MejarmettQ Portage 40. Molford Creek 143. Melrose, N. S. 82. Melvcrn Square 89. Melville Id. 101. Melville Lake 226. Memramcook 73. Merashecn Id. 212. Merigomish 138. Metapcdia 69. Meteghan, N. S. 113. M^tis, P. Q. 249. Middle Musquodoboit 82. Middle River 163, 167. Middle Simonds, 53. Middle Stcwiacke 81. Middleton, N. S. 89. Milford, N. S. 129. Milford Haven 133. Milkish Channel 41. Mill Cove, N. B. 49. Mille Vaches 299. Milltown, N. B. 35. Mill Village 128. Minas Basin 101, 108. Mingan Ids., Lab. 231. Ming's Bight 221. Minister's Face 22. Minudie, N. S. 79. Miquelon 185, 214, Mira Bay 150. Mira I^ke, C. B. 154. Miramichi, N. B, 61. Miscouche 179. .Miscou Id, 64. Mispeck, N. B. 23. Missiguash Marsh 79, 74. Mission Point 68. Mistanoque Id. 230. Mistassini, Lake 301. Moisic River 232. Molasses Harbor 134. Momozeket River 65. Moncton, N. B. 72. Money Cove 30. Montague Bridge 187 . Montague Mines 101, 131. Mont Joli 231. Mont L"uis 249. Montmorenci Falls 277. Montreal, P. Q. 309. Bonsccours Market 312. Champ de Mars, 312. Christ Ch. Cathcd. 314. Court House 312. Dominion Sq. 315. Gcolog. Museum 312. Gesu Church 313. Gray Nunnery 316. Great Seminary 315. Hotel Dieu 316. Instltut Canadien 312. McGill Univ. 814. Montreal Coll. 315. Mt. Koyal 316 w V 1 ! ^ f I ■ i V I •f'> '■; . % ' ?»f:. ^ , ^ ■ 1 s ;; i 328 Montreal, Nazareth Asyl. 316. New Cathedral 315. Notre Dame 311. Place d'Armes 311. Post-Office 311. Seminary 312. St. Helen's Isle 313. Victoria BriJge 316. Victoria Square 311. Moose Harbor 120. Moosepath Park 22. Morden, N. S. 89. Morrell.P. E. 1. 182. Morris Id. 116. Morristown 90, 139. Mosquito Cove 208. Moss Glen 22. Moulin k Baude 299. Mount Aspotogon 127. Blair 32. Calvaire 186. Camille 250. Chapeau 186. Dalhousie 67. Denson 91. EboulcmentR 294, 253. Granville 146. Hawley 89. Ilermon Cemet. 280. Joli 242. Nat 225. P!.«(;ah 71. Roy il 316, 318. St. Anne 242. Stewart, P. E. 1. 181. Teneriffe, N. B. 55. Uiiiacke, N. S. 93. Mountain, Ardoise, 93. Bald, 38, 55. Beloeil 319. Boar's Back 132. Boucherville 319. Chamcook 33. North 84. Salt 168. South 84. Sugar-Loafl59. Tracadiegash 67, 239. Mountains, Antigonish 139. Baddeck 163. Blue 84, 90, 115, 130. Cobequid 80. Ingonish 161. Mealy 225. Notre Dame 249. St. Anne 287. St. Margaret 302. Scaumenac 68. Sporting 146. Mull River 168. Murray Bay 294. Murray Harbor 181. Musbaboon Harbor 132. INDEX. Musquash, N. B. 31. Mus(iuodoboit 1?1. Mutton Ids. 124. Nain, Lab. 226. Napan Valley 61. Narrows, The 47, 64. Narrows, Grand 164. Nashwaak 47. Nashwaaksis 45. Natashquan Point 231. Natural Steps, The 277. Necum Tench 132. Negro Id., N. S. 122. Negrotown Point 15. Nelson, N. B. 63. Nepi.«igait Lake 55. Nepisiguit River 65. Nerepis Hills, N. B.41. Nerepis River 38. Netsbuctoke 225. Neutral Id., N. B. 34. New Albany, N. g 89. New Bandon 66. New Bay 211. New Bonaventure 210. New Brunswick 13. Newburgh, N. B. 50. New Canaan 48. New Carlisle 240. Newcastle 49, 62. New Dublin 119. New Edinburgh 112. Newfoundland 187. New Glasgow, N. S. 136. New Glasgow, P. E. I. 178. New Liverpool 282. New London 178. Newman. Sound 203. New Perlican 209. Newport, N. S. 92, 101. Newport, ?. Q. 241. New Richmond 240. New Ross, N. S. 90. New Tusket 113. Niapisca Id. 231. Nicolet, P. Q. 308. Nictau Falls 89. Nictor Lake 55. Niger Sound 227. Nimrod, N. F. 211. Nipper's Harbor 205, 211. Noel, N. S. 105. North Bay 214. Northern Head 30. Northfield 129. North Harbor 212. North Joggins 73. North Lake 182. North Mt. 84. North Point 180. North River Falls 105. North Rustico 178. North Sydney 151. Northumberland Strait 60, ■i74, 239. Nortnwest Arm 100. North Wiltshire 177. Norton, N.B. 71,42. Norwest, Lab. 226. Notre D(ime Bay 210, 205. Notre Dame du Lac 58. Nova Scotia 75. Nulble Id. 31. Oak Bay, N. B. 34. Oak Point 41, 61. Ochre Pit Cove 208. Offer Wadham 204. Okkak, Lab. 226. Old Barns 81. Old Bonaventure 210. Old Ferolle 219. Old Fort Point 158. Oldham Mines 82. Old Maid 29. Old Perlican 209, 201. Oldtown, Me. 39. Olonianosheebo 231> Onslow 80. Oromocto, N. B. 43. Oromocto Lake 38. Orono, Me. 39. Otnabog, N. B. 42. Ottawa, Ont. 320. Outarde River 250. Oxford, N. S. 80. Ovens, the 119. Pabineau Falls 66. Pabos, P. Q. 241. Painsec June. 72, 59. PapsofMatane249. Paradise, N. F. 226. Paradise, N. S. 89. Parrsboro', N. S. 102. Partridge Id., N. B. 16. Partridge Id., N. S. 102. Paspebiac. P. Q. 240. Patrick's Hole 290. Patten, Me. 58. Penguin Ids. 203. Penobscot River 39. Penobsquis, N. B. 71. Penteco.-^t River 233. Pepiswick Lake 131. Perce, P. Q. 242. Perroquets, The 232. Perry, Me. 28. Perth, N. B. 54. Petitoodiac 72, 48. Petit de Grat 145. Petite Bergeronne 233. Petite Passage 117. Petit MiHis 249. Petty Harbor 197. Piccadilly Mt. 71. Pickwaakeet 42. INDEX. 329 erland Strait 60, id. Arm 100. shire 177. B. 71,42. ,ab. 226. le Bay 210, 205. le du Lac 68. ia 75. 31. if. B. 34. 41, 61. Cove 208. lam 204. b. 226. 81. enture 210. 219. 'oint 158. incs 82. !9. in 209, 201. yie. 39. leebo 231. N. B. 43. Lake 38. 39. V. B. 42. at. 320. liver 250. . S. 80. $119. Falls 66. Q. 241. inc. 72, 59. itanc 249. N. F. 225. N. S. 89. , N. S. 102. Id., N. B. 15. Id., N. S. 102. P. Q. 240. lole 290. ;. 68. Is. 203. River 39. s, N. B. 71. Kiver 233. Lake 131. i. 242. 1, Tho 232. 28. 8.54. ! 72, 48. -at 145. ^eronne 233. iage 117. I 249. )or 197. Nit. 71. 3t42. Pictou 137, 166. Pictou Id. 176. Pilgrims, The 252. Pincher's Id. 20a Pinnacle Id, N. S. 105. Pirate's Cove 143. Pisarinco Cove 31. Plaoentia Bay 212. Plains of Abraham 280. Plaster Cove 143, 168. Pleasant Bay 183. Pleasant Point 27. Pleureuse Point 249. Plumweseep 71. Pockmouche, N. B. 62. Pockshaw, N. B. 66. Point ;Sl Beaulieu 295 Point Aconi,C. B. 161. Amour, Lab. 228. i Pique 294. au Bourdo 69. de Monts 2S3, 249. duChOne59,60. la Bouie 306. Lepreau 31. Levi, P. Q. 282. Maquereau 241. Miscou, N. B. 64. Orignaux 252. Pleasant 40, 68, 100. Prim 175, 181. Rich, N. F. 219. St. Charles 316. St. Peter 244. Wolfe, N. B. 71. Pointe & la Garde 68. ik la Croix 68. aux Trembles 306, 309. Mille Vaches 233. Roches 301. Rouge 299. Pokiok Falls 52. Pollett River 72. Pouiquet Forks 139. Pond, Deer, N. F. 219. Grand, N. F. 218. Red Indian 211. Quemo-Gospen 213. Ponhook f 1. N. B. 35. P. Q. 308. 318. P. Q. 253. -aps 287. 92. . Q 254. le Paul, 318. B. 72. 201. . F. 213. • 49, ri, 114. 1 167. )int 174. 17. y225. 1(1227. J44. 16, 112. ili. 36 284. ion 291. SauH au llecollet 318. Sault de Mouton 233. Scatari.C. B. 150. Schoodic Lakes 35. Scotchtown, N. B. 43. Scotch VillaRe 93. Sculpia Point 214. Seal Cove, N. B. 29. Seal Cove, N. F. 221. Seal Id. N. 8.124. Seal Ids. 225. Sea-Trout Point 175. Sea-Wolf Id. IfiO. Seeley's Mills 71. Segum-Sega Lakes 130. Seldoui-come-by 210. Seven Ids., Lab. 232. Shag Id. 230. Shawanegan Falls 307. Shecatica Bay 230. Shediac 69, 60, 174. Sheet Harbor 132. Shelburne, N. S. 121. Shepody Bay 73. Shepodv Mt. 72. Shcrbrooke 133, 132. Shcrbrooke Lake 90. Shiniuiicas, N. S. 78. Ship Harbor 132. Shippigan Id. 63. Shoe Cove 211, 221. Shubenacadic 82. Sillery, P. Q. 280. Silver Falls, N. B. 22. Sir Charles Hamilton's Sound, N. F. 20a Sissiboo Falls 112. Skye Glen 168. Smith's Sound 209. Smoky, Cape 159. Sorel, P. Q. 308. Souris, P. E. I. 182. South Bay, N. B. 40. South Mt. 84. South Oromocto Lake 38. Sou^hport, P. E. I. 177. South Quebec 282. S. W. Head 29. S. W. Miramichi 62. Spaniard's Bay 207. Spear Harbor 226. Spectacle Id. 120. Spencer's Id. 103, 104, 106. Spencer Wood 280. Spiller Rocks 202. Split, Cape 104. Split Rock, 31. Spotted Id. 226. Spout, The 197. Sprogg's Point 42. Sprague's Cove 29. Springfield, N. B. 42. Springfield, N. S. S9. Springhill, N. B. 61. Spring Hill, N.S. 80. Spruce Id. 31 Spruce Lake 24. Spry Bay 132. Stanley, N. B. 50, Statue Point 303. Steep Creek 143. Stellarton, N. S. 136. Stewiacke 82. Stone Pillar 253. Surmont, N. S. 133. Strait of Barra 164, Strait of Belle Isle 220, 227 Strait of Canso 142. Strait of Northumberland 60, 174, 239. Strait Shore, N. F. 196. Sugar Id 50,61. Sugar-Loaf, N, B, 68. Sugar-Loaf, N, F, 200, 217. Suuimerside, P E. 1. 178. Sunacadie, C, B. 164, Su8.sex Vale, N. B. 71. Swallow-Tail Head 29, Sydney, C, B. 150, Sydneji Mines 152. Tableau, Le 303, Table Head 227. Table Roulante 243. Tabusiniac 61, 62, Tadousac, P. Q 299. Tangier, N. S. 132 Tannery West 319. Tautramar Marsh 79, 74. Tatamagouche, N. S. 81. Tea Hill, P. E, I, 177. Tedish, N. B. 69 Temi.scouata Lake 58, 295. Temple Bay, Lab. 227. Tennant's Cove 42. Thoroughfare The 48. Three Rivers 307. Three Tides, P. E. I. 174. Three Towers, N. F, 211. Thrumcap Shoal 93. Tickle Cove 203 Tiduish, N. S. 78. Tignish, P. E, I. 180. Tilt Cove 205, 211. Tilton Harbor 210. Toad Cove 197. Tobique, N. B. 64. Tolt Peak 217. Tomkecigwick River 69. Topsail, N. F. 206. Torbay, N, F, 196, 200. Tor Bay, N. S. 134. formeDtine, Cape 174. Torrent Point 227. Tracadie, N. B. 62. Tracadie, N. S, 139, Tracadie, P. E. I. 161. Tracadiegash 67, 239. Tracy's Tiake 71, Tracy's Mills, 38. Traverse, Cape 174. Tremont, N. S. 89. Trepa8.sey, N. F 213, Trinitv,N. F. 201. Trinity Bay 208,201. Trinity, Cape 303. Trinity Cove 1(». Trois Pistoles 261. Trois Rivieres 307. Trou St. Patrice 290. Trouty, N. F. 210. Truro, N. S, 81, rr\on, P, E 1. 174. Tusket Ids. 125, 115. Tuskct Lakes 115. Tweednogie, C, B, 148. Tweedside, N. B. 38. Twillingate, N. F, 205. Ungava Bay 226, Upper Caraquctte C6. Upper Gagetown 43. Upper Musquodoboit 82, Upper Queensbury 52. Upsalquitch River 69. Utopia, Lake 32. Van Burcn,Me. 56. Vanceboro, Me. 38, Varennes, P. Q. 308. Veazie, Me. 39. Venison Id. 225, Vernon River 181. Victoria 53, Victoria Line 168. Victoria Mines 152. Virginia Water 195. Wallace Valley 80. Walrus Id, 231, Walton 106, 93. Wapitagun Har, 230. Wapskehegan River 54. Ward's Harbor 211, Wasbademoak I^ake 47. Wash-shecoctai 231 Watagheistic Sound 230 Watchabaktchkt 164. Watt June, 37. Waverley Mines 82. Waweig, N. B. 36, Welchpool, N. B, 25. Wellington 179. Welsfofd, N, B, 38. ^Ventworth, N. S. 80. West Bay, C, B, 165, Westchester, N. S. 80. Westfield, N. B. 41. West Isles 31. West Point 179. West Port, N. S. 117. West River 226. -i^VW.J^^ PM I 332 INDEX. h : i Weymouth, N. S. 112. Whale Cove 29. White Bay 221. White Haven 134. White Horse 31. White's Cove 49. WhycocomaKh, C. B. 167. W'icliham, 42, 47. Wicklow, N. B. 53. Wiggins Cove 49. William Henry 308. Wiluiot Si)ring.>^ H9. Wilson's 15eafli 25. Wilton Grove 21H. Wind.sor, N. S. 91,101. Windsor June. 82, 93. Windsor Lake J 95. Wine Harbor 133. Wiseman's Cove 221. Witless Bay, N. 1. 197. Wolf River 231. Wolfville 107, 91. Wolves, The 25, 31. Wood IMllar 2r)3. Woodstock 50, 37. Yarmouth, N. 3. 114, 125. York River 174. m Index to Historical and Biographical Allusions. •i-' ! I : 1 , . > ^'|f Acadian Exiles 108, 113, 131 Annapolis Royal, N S. 86. Antico.sti, P. Q. 234. Aukpaque, N. U. 46. Avalon, N. P. 198. Bathurst, N. B. 65 Bay Bulls, N. P. 197. Bay of Chaleur 65. Beaubassiu and Bcauscjour 78. Bic Island, P. Q. 250. Bras d'Or, C. B. 165. Br.beuf, Pere 266. Brest, Lab. 230. Campobello Id., N. B. 26. Canada, Lower 235. Canada, the name of 245. Canso, N. S. 144. Cape Breton 149. Cape Breton (old Province) 141. Cape Broylo, N. F. 197. Cape Chattt:, P. Q. 249. Cape Despair, P. Q. 241. Cape d'Or, N. S. 104. Cape Sable, N. S. 123 Cape Sambro, N. S. 118. Caraquotte, N. B. 66. Carbonear, N. P. 208. Cartier's Voyages 193, 204, 245, 272, 293. Caughnawaga, P. Q. 319. Chaniplain, Samuel de 273. Charlottetown, P. E. 1. 176. Chateau, Lab. 227. Chateau Bigoi , P. Q. 280 Chateau RicL .i, P. Q 284. Chaumonot, Tere 279. Chezzetcook, N. S. 131. Chicoutimi, P. Q. 300. Clare Settlements, N. S. 113. Conception Bay, N. P. 206. Constitution and Guerriere 200. Cote'de Beaupre 276. D'Aulnay and La Tour 19, 87, 122. D'Avaugour, Baron 246. Dawson, Dr. J. W. 138. Dead Islands, N. P. 216. Eastport, Me. 27. Esquimaux, the 226. Perryland, N. P, 198. Port La Ilcve, N. S. 119. Ports Lawrence and Cum- berland 78. Fort Meductic, N. B. 62. Predoricton, N. B. 46. Prontcnac, Count de 262, 273. Gasp6, P. Q. 244. Gilbert, Sir Humphrey 135, 193. Glooscap 19, 41, 102, 106, 120, 137, 144. Goat Island, N. S. 85. Grand Banks 199. Grand Lake, N. B. 48. Grand Manan 28. Grand Pr6, N. S. 108. Guysborough, N. S. 134. Haliburton, Judge 92. Halifax, N. S. 99. Huron Indians 279, 289. Indian Lorettc 279. Ingonish, C. B. 159. Isle aux Coudres 293. Isle of Orleans 288. Jemseg, N. B. 42. Jesuits, the 261, 266, 275, 281 . King's College 92. Labrador 222, 223. Lachine, P. Q. 319. Lake St. John, P. Q. 301. Lake Utopia, N. B. 32. Liverpool, N. S. 120. Lord's-Day Gale 170, 153, 185. Louisbourg, C. B. 154, 149. Lunenburg, N. 8. 118. Madawaska, N. B. 57. Magdalen Islands 184. iMahone Bay, N. S. 128. Maugerville, N. B. 43. Micmac Indians 68, 147 , 163, 244. Mingiin Ids., Lab. 231. Miramicbi District 63. MiscouId.,N.B. 64. Montreal, P. Q. 317. Moravian Missions 223. .Murray Bay, P. Q. k95. New Brunswick 14. Newfoundland 187, 201, 202, 204,222. Norsemen, the 123, 204, 245. Nova Scotia 76. Oromocto, N B. 43. Passamoquoddy Bay 27. Penobscot Indians 39. Perc;:-, P. Q. 243. Pictou, N. S. 137. Placentia, N. P. 21?. Pleasant Point, Mc. 27. Port I.rfitour, N. S. 122. Port Mouton, N. S. 121. Prince Edward Island 172. Quebec 272. Red Indians 210, 218. Restigoucho 69. Richibucto Indians 60. Riviere du Loup 296. Riviere Quelle 252. Robervals, the 301. Robin & Co. 240. Sable Island 135. Saguenay River 298. St. Anne de Beaupr^ 285. St. Anne's Bay, C. B 158. St. Augustin, P. Q. 306. St. Croix Island 34. St. Joachim, P. Q. 287. St. John, N. B. 19. St. John River 40. St. John's, N. F. 193. St. Mary's Bay 112. St. Paul's Bay 292. St. Paul's Island 160. St. Peter's, C. B. 146. St. Pierre, Miq. 180 B* * ^ N. l\ 197. 231. )7, 91. o 26, 31. 2r)3. eO, 37. N. 3. 114, 125. I Srottfph Migration 164. Sillery, P. Q. 281. Sorcl, P. Q. 308. Strait of Belle Isle 220. Sydney, C. B. 161. Sydney Coal-Mines 153. INDEX. Tadousnc, V. Q. 298, 299. Tilbury, Wreck of the 148. Tropa-ssey, N. F 213 Trois Pistoles, P. Q. 251. Truro, N. 8.81. Ursulines of Quebec 2G5. 333 Walker's Expedition 241. Wallis, Admiral 100. iU'illianis, Oen. 1(10. i Windsor, N S. Mi. I Yarmouth, N. S. 114. 233, Index to Quotations. ons. . N. B. 43. ians68,147,l63, , Lab. 231. Mstrict 63 N. B. 64. . Q. 317. issioiis 226. P. Q. kUS. viok 14. nd 187,201,202, ^e 123, 204. 245. 76. i B. 43. ddy Bay 27. ndians 39. 243. .137. . F. 21?. nt. Me. 27. N. S. 122. , N. S. 121. rd Island 172. 210, 218. 59. idians 60. )up 296. e 252. eSOl. 240. 135. er298. «aupr6 285. y, 0. B 158. P. Q. 306. Id 34. ?. Q. 287. 1.19. :40. F. 193. ^12. 292. ad 160. B. 146. .180 I Alexander, Sir J. E. 38, 58. Baillie, T. 43. Ballantyne, R. M. 292. Beeclier, Henry Ward 258. Boucher 292. Bouchette, R. 247, 278. Bougiinville 238. Bonnyca.stle, Sir R. 67, 195, 218. Brown, Richard 141, 154, 155, 157, 159, 166, 233. Buies, Arthur 240, 243, 244, 248, 250. Cartier, Jacques 204, 246, 288, 298. Champlain 124, 273, 295- Charlevoix 30, 77, 150, 158, 184, 204, 2S3, 238, 247, 289, 293, 299, 300. Cojzens, V. S. 92, 96, 100, 111, 131, 140, 142, 147, 166. Cremazie, 0. 247. Dawson, J. W. 102, 142. De Costa, B. P. 28, 29, 30. De Millc, Prof 105. Dilko, Sir Charles 258, 259. Diifferin, Lord 237. Feriand, Abb6 232, 248, 283. Fiset, L J. C. 247. Gesner, Dr. A. B. 32, 36, 43, 56. Gilpin, Dr. 134. Gordon, Hon. Arthur 51, 52, 53, 55, 56, 62, 67. Grey 247. Haliburton, Jud^e 90. 91, 109, 111, 113. Ilallock, Charles 67, TC, 103, 126, 127,128, 129, 130, 169, 170, 225, 227, 240, 301. TTumilton, 88. Hardy, Capt. 129, 130, 131. Hawkins's Quebec 266, 259, 261, 272. Hcriot, George 279, 284. Hind, Prof. 232,233. Howells, W. D. 260, 268, 276, 278, 2'iK), 281,302,303. Imray's Sailing Directiovs'Z, 158,169,248. Johnston, Prof. J. F. W. 23, 31, 45, 57, 71, 117. Jukes, Prof. J. B. 189, 195, 196, 216, 218. Kalm 305. Kirke, Henry 245. La Hontan, Baron 87, 212, 306. Lalcmaut, Pere 249. Lanman, Charles 68. Le Moine, J. M. 268, 264, 280, 294. Lescarbot, M. 34, 85, 86, 201. London Times 257, 298, 304. Longfellow, H. W. 109, 110, 111, 113. Lowell, R. T. S. 187. McCrea, Lt.-Col. 193, 195, 197. Marmier, X. 267. Marshall, C. 278, 286. Martin, M. 164. M'Gregor, John 19, 42, 117, 128, 166. Moore, Tom 184. 320. Moorson, Capt. 116, 118, 122. Murdoch, B. 75, 109, 122, 155. 156. Noble, Rev. L. L. 30, 91, 103, 141, 160, 189, 193, 196, 204, 219, 221, 223, 224, 228. Novvs Orhis 125. Parkman, Francis 237, 245, 262, 266, 275, 279, 285, 288. Perley, M. H. 182. Ranieau. M. 238, 277. Rocsevelt, R. B. 66. Routhier, A. B. 252. Sagas of Iceland 123, 204. Sand, Maurice 186. 266. Scott, G. C. 8, 36, 200. Shirley, Gov. 274. Silliman, Prof 238, 267, 267, 277. Stedman. R. H. 170. Strauss, 231 Sutherland, Rev. George 178, 180. Tach«5 261. 299. Taylor's Canadian Handbook 242, 248, 251 282 319 Taylor, 'Bayard 277, 291, 292, 293, 297, 304. Thoreaii, H. D. 237, 238, 246, 257, 267, 276, 277, 283, 284, 287, 309, 312. Trudelle 292. Voltaire 274. Warburton, Eliot 190, 195, 234, 256. Warner, Charles Dudley, 20, 25, 26, 84, 86, 91, 92, 96, 107, 138, 140, 158, 162, 165, 166, 167, 168, 175, 176, 179. Whitburne, Capt 187. White, John, 278, 298, 303. Whittier, John G. 21, 65, 209, 224, 230. 334 INDEX. Index to Railways and Steamboat Lines. European and North American 37. Grand Trunk 305. Intercolonial 70, 78. New Brunflwick 41). New Brunswick and Canada 3!}. PasinofMinaslOl. Bras d'Or, 161. Conception Bay (N. F.) 206. Easlport 25. Grand Lake 48. Halifax to Sydney 148. Labrador 224. Magdalen Islands 183. Moisic River (Labrador) 229. Newfoundland 188, 148. Nortliern Coastal (N. F.) 200. North Shore (N.B.) 60. Pictou Branch 136. Prince Edward Island 177, 180, 182. Quebec and Oosford 266. Shcdiac Branch 59. Windsor and Annapolis 83. Pa8.samaquoddy Bay 25j_30. Prince Edward Island lr4, 176. Quehec and Gulf Porta 238, 60. Quouc** to Cacouna 291. Ilichelieu (St. Lawrence) 306. Saguenay River 291, 297. St. .John River 39, 51, 63. St. Pierre (Mlq.) 185. Union (St. Lawrence) 305. Washademoak I^ake 47. Western Outports 213. Yarmouth and Ilalifax 117. b^ Authorities Consulted in the Preparation of this Volume. The Editor acknowledges his obligations to the officers of the Boston Athenocum , the Parliament Library at Ilalifax, the Colonial Library at Charlottetown, the Me- chanics' Institute at St. .lohn, and the libraries of Parliament, of the Laval Uni- ver.«lty, of the Institut Canadien, and of the Literary and Historical Society, of Quebec. New Brunswick, with Notes for Er. mnts ; by Abraham Gesncr, M. D. (1847.) Geology of New Brunswick, etc. ; b> Dr. Gcaner. New Brunswick and its Scenery ; by Jno. R. Hamilton. (St. John, 1874.) Account of New Brunswick ; by Thomas Balllle. (London, 1832.) Handbook for Emigrants to New Brunswick ; by M. H. I'erley. (St. John, 1854.) Mount Desert ; by B. F. De Costa. (New York.) History of New Brunswick ; by Cooney. Nouveau Brunswick ; by E. Ilegnault. (Paris.) History of Maine ; by James Sullivan, LL. D. (1795.) History of Maine ; by W. D. Williomson. (2 vols. ; 1839) Transactions of the Maine Historical Society. Letters from Nova Scotia ; by Captain Moorson. (London, 1830.) Travels In Nova Scotia and New Brunswick ; by J. S. Buckingham, M. P. Forest Life In Acadle; by Capt. Campbell Hardy. (London.) The Fishing Tourist ; by Charles Ilallock. (Now York, 1873.) Acadia ; or A Month among the Bluenoses ; by Frederick S. Cozzens. (New York, 1859.) The Neutral French ; a Story of Nova Scotia. The Lily and the Cross : by Prof. De Mllle. The Boys of Grand Pre School ; by Prof. De Mllle. The Clock-Maker ; Isy Judge T. C. Hallburton. The Old Judge ; by Judge T. C. Hahburton. The Pre-Columbian Discovery of America ; by B. F. De Costa. (New York.) Acadian G-^ology ; bj J. W. Dawson, LL. D., F. R. S. (Halifax, 1855.) On the Mineralogy and Geology of Nova Scotia ; by Dr. A. Gesncr. An Historical and Statistical Account of Nova Scotia ; by T. C. Haliburton, D. C. L., M P. (2 vols. ; Halifax, 1829.) History of Nova Scotia, or Acadle; by Beamish Murdoch, Q. C. (3 vols. ; Halifax, 1865.) A General Description of Nova Scotia. (Halifax. 1823.) Account of the Present State of Nova Scotia. (Edinburgh^ 1780.) i i INDEX. 335 B. (7, 180, 182. 83. 30. 4, 175. 38, 60. 805. 17. Volume. iton Atbenaenm, tctown, the Me- ■ the Laval Uni- rical Society, of D. (1847.) 1874.) John, 1854.) [.P. i. (New York, fork.) rton.D. C. L., ols. ; Halifax, A History of tho Island of Cape Breton ; by Richard Brown, F. G. S., F. R. 0. S. (London, 1869.) Importance and AdvantaRes of Cape Breton ; by Wm. Bollan. (London, 1746.) Letters on Cape Breton ; by Thomiw Pichon. (London, 17(30.) Baddeck, and that Sort of Thing ; by Charles Dudley Warner. (Boston, 1874.) Prince Edward Island ; i y Rev. Gcorjre Sutherland. (Charlo»totown, 1861.) Progress and Prospects of Prince Edward Island ; by C B. Bagster. (Charlottctown, 1861.) Travels in Prince Edward Island ; by Walter Johnstone. (Edinburgh, 1824.) A Concise History of Newfoundland ; by F. R. Page. (London, 1860.) History of tho Qovernment of Newfoundland ; by Chief Justice John Reeve. (Lon- don, 1793.) Catechism of the HLstory of Newfoundland ; by W. C. St. John. (Boston, 1855.) Pedley's History of Newfoundland. Anspach's History of Newfoundland. Newfoundland in 1842 ; by Sir R. H. Bonnycastlo. (2 vols. ; Ix)ndon, 1842.) Voyage of H. M. S. Rosamond; by Lieut. Chappell, R. N. (London, 1818.) Lost amid the Fogs; by Lieut.-Col. McCrea, Royal Artillery. (London, 1869.) The New Priest of Conception Bay ; by R. T. S. Lowell. (Boston, 1838.) Excursions in and about Newfoundland by Prof. J. B. Jukes. (2 vols. : London, 1842.) Geological Survey of Newfoundland for 1873 ; by Alex. Murray, F. 0. S. (St. John's, 1874.) After Icebergs with a Painter ; by Rev. L. L. Noble. (New York, 18C0.) A Voyage to Labrador; by L'Abbd Ferland. (Quebec.) Notes on the Coast of Labrador ; by Robertson. (Quebec.) Explorations in the Interior of the Labrador Peninsula ; by Prof. H. Y. Hind, F. R. G. S. (2 vols. ; London, 1863.) Sixteen Years* Residence on the Coast of Labrador ; by George Cartwright. (8 vols. ; Newark, 1792.) A Summer Cruise to Labrador ; by Charles Hallock. In Harper's Magazine, Vol. XXIL History and General Description of New Franco ; by Father P. F. X. Charlevoix. (6 vols. ; in Shea's translation ; New York, 1872.) Histoire de la Nouvelle France ; by Marc Lescarbot. (1609 ; Paris, 1866 ; 3 vols.) Cours d'Histoire du Canada ; by L'Abb<5 Ferland. Histoire dc la Colonie Francaise en Canada ; by M. Faillon. (3 vols. : Ville-Marie [Mon- treall, 1865-6). History of Canada ; by F. X. Gameau. (Bell's translation ; Montreal, 1866.) History of Canada ; by John MacMullen. (Brockville, 1868.) Novus Orbis ; by Johannes de Laet. (Leyden, 1638.) Lea Relations d^s Jesuits. Lower Canada ; by Joseph Bouchette. (London, 1815.) British Dominions' in North America ; by Joseph Bouchette. (2 vols. ; London, 1832.) British America ; by John M'Gregor. (2 vols. ; London, 1832.) La France aux Colonies ; by M. Rameau. (Paris, 1859.) Le Canada au Point de Vue Economique ; by Louis Strauss. (Paris, 1867. ) Hochelaga, or England in the New World ; by Eliot Warburton. (2 vols. ; New York. 1846.) y y t The Conquest of Canada; by Eliot Warburton. (2 vols. ; London, 1849.) The First English Conquest of Canada ; by Henry Kirke. (London, 1871.) The Pioneers of France in the New World ; by Francis Parkman. (Boston, 1865.) The Jesuits of North America ; by Francis Parkman. The Old Regime in Canada ; by Francis Parkman. (Boston, 1874.) Histoire du Canada; by Gabriel Sagard. (4 vols. ; Paris, 1866.) Sketches of Celebrated Canadians ; by Henry J. Morgan. (Montreal, 1865 ) -^ Hawkins's New Picture of Quebec. (Quebec, 1834.) Reminiscences of Quebec. (Quebec , 1858 . ) Decouverte du Tombeau de Champlain ; by Laverdi6re and Casgndn. (Quebec. 1866. ) Maple Leaves ; by J. M. Le Moine. (Quebec.) 336 INDEX. ■■ tl ir ' ! .!• ] 1 I I I I r T F T A Tl Tl Tl Tl Tl Tl Ac Oc A& Ilii Af Ac. Letters Rur I'Ameriquo ; by X. Marmlcr. (Paris.) Account ofa Journey between Hartford and Quebec ; by Prof. B. Sllliman. (1820.) Taylor's Canauian Handbook. (Montreal.) English America; by S. P. Day. (2 vols ; London, 18C4.) Three Years in Canada ; by John MacTaggart. (2 vols. ; London, 1829.) Western Wanderings; by W. H. 0. Kingston. (2 vols. ; London, 1850.) Sketches of Lower Canada ; by Joseph Sanson. (New York , 1817.) The Canadian Dominion ; by Charles Marshall. (London, 1871.) Five Years' llesidencc in the Canadoii ; by E. A. Talbot. (2 vols. ; London, 1824.) Sketches from America ; by John White. (London, 1870.) Travels through the C.madaa ; by George Heriot. (London, 1807.) British Posses.sions ; In M.Smith. (Baltmiore, 1814.) Adventures in the Wilds of America ; by Charles Lanman. (2 vols. ; Philadelphia, 1856.) Pine-Forests ; by Lieut -Col. Sleigh. (London, 1853.) The travels of Hall, Lyell, Trollope, Dickens, Johnston, etc. Bref Uecitet Succincte Narration de la Navigation falte en MDXXXV. et MDXXX7I. par le Capltaine Jacques Cartier. (Paris, 1863 ) The Principal Navigations, Voyages, etc., of the English Nation ; by Richard Ilak- luyt. (1589-1600.) Lea Voyages di la Nouvelle f'rance, etc. ; by Samuel de Champlain. (1632 ; Paris, 1830.) Relation dii Voyage au Port Royal ; by M. Di^revllle. (Amsterdam, 1710.) 'Vouveaux Voyages, etc. ; by the Baron La Hon tan. (1703; Ix)ndon, 1736 ) Relation Originalo du Voyage de Jacques Cartier. (Paris, 1867.) Memoires, Relations, et Voyages de D(^couverte au Canada. (Quebeci 1838.) Voyage to Canada ; by Father Charlevoix. (London, 1763 ) Six Millc Lieues A Toute Vapeur ; by Maurice Sand. (Paris.) Greater Britain ; by Sir Charles Dllke. The Hudson's Bay Company ; by R. M. Ballantyne. Imray's Sailing Directions. (London ) Journal ofa Voyage to the Coast of Gaspi: ; by L'Abb6 Ferland. (Quebec.) The Lower St. Lawrence ; by Dr. W. J. Anderson. (Quebec, 1872.) Le Chercheur de Tr^sors ; by Ph. Aubert de Gasp^ fils. (Quebec, 1863.) Chronlques Humeurs et Caprices ; by Arthur Buies. (Quebec, 1873.) Les Anciens Canadiens ; by Philippe Aubert de Gasp^. (Quebec, 1864.) L'Album du Tourlste ; by J. M. Le Moine. (Quebec, 1872.) The Blockade of Quebec ; by Dr. W. J. Anderson. (Quebec, 1872.) Journal of the Siege of Quebec ; by Gen. James Murray. (Quebec, 1871 ) The Expedition against Quebec ; by " A Volunteer." (Quebec, 18«2.) Chateau Bigot ; by J. M. Le Moine, (Quebec, 1874.) A Chance Acquaintance ; by W. D. Howells. (Boston, 1873.) A Yankee In Canada; by Henry D. Thoreau. (Boston, 18^.) La Littdrature Canadienne. (2 vols. ; Quebec, 1863-4.) Soirees Canadienncs. (2 vols. ; Quebec, 1861.) Travels In New Brunswick; by Hon. Arthur Gordon. (In Varalion Tourists fori 1862-3, London.) Field and Forest Rambles ; by A. Leith Adams. (London, 1S73.) L'Acadie, or Seven Years' Explorations in British North America ; by Sir Jainpj| E.Alexander. (2 vols. ; London, 1849.) Game-Fish of the North and the British Provinces ; by R. B. Roosevelt. (Ncwl York, 1865 ) Fishing in American Waters ; by Qenio C. Scott. (New York.) The American Angler's Guide; by Norris. (New York.) Fish and Fishing ; by H. W. Herbert (" Frank Forrester ''). (New York, 1850.) Tlie Fishing Tourist ; by Charles Hallock. (New York, 1873.) Les Muses de la Nouvelle France ; by Marc Lescarbot. (Paris, 1609.) Evangeline, a Tale of Acadle ; by Henry W. Longfellow. (Boston, 1847.) The Poetical Works of John 6. Whittier. (Boston.) The St. Lawrence and the Saguenay ; by Charles Sangster (Kingston. ) Essals Poetiques ; by Leon Pamphile Le May. (Quebec, 1866.) Mes Loisirs ; by Louis Honore Frechette. (Quebec.) The Poetical Works of 0. Cremazio, J. Lenoir, and L. J. G. Fiaet. (Quebec.) r. B. Siniman. (1820.) idon, 1829.) don, I860.) 1817.) 171.) inni \ vols. ; London, 1824.) 1807.) (2 vols. ; Philadelphia, XXXV.etMDXXXTI. itlon ; by Richard Ilak- auiplain. (1632 ; Paris, stcrdam, 1710.) London, 1736) (Quebec, 1838.) land. (Quebec.) ^c, 1872.) iuebec,i863.) !bec, 1873.) luebec, 1864.) EC, 1872.) (Quebec, 1871 ) iebec,1872.) 73.) 62.) CTn Varation Tourists for 1S73.^ i America ; by Sir Jamf i y E. B. Roosevelt. (New '). (New York, 1860.) 1873.) Paris, 1609.) (Boston, 1847.) sr (Kingston.) 1865.) 0. Fiset. (Quebec.) AIAP OF THE MJillMilE .PieflllCiS. WITH NEWFOUNDLAND & LABRADOR. rVIlLISskD TO ACCOMPANY The Maritime Provmces : aHaiidbook for Travellers" JAAIESR. OSGOOD & C9 BOSTON ALISS. U PreparedbyGiaCaColtanJfcWlTSMllliamSfJfewYork. LONGITUDE E«tT 17 mOM WASHINOTON 21 23 i " 1 ill r iff ■ ^ ni j 1 t • t' i \ 1 ■ fr ;. - ' ... •' , > i'. 1^ r ■ I' i ! I; :rl! a a 1 it A IJ A A F'^ i ! I i j I' ffi. 1^^ i, % 1 A >V5 4> ALPHABETICAL INDEX TO ADVERTISEMENTS. Page ALLAN LINE OF STEAMSHIPS 3d page cover BAEDEKER'3 EUROPEAN GUIDE-BOOKS . . . lacing title-page BOOKS OF AMERICAN TRAVEL 23 BOOKS OF EUROPEAN TRAVEL 22 BOSTON, HALIFAX, AND PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND STEAM- SHIP LINE 13 5 BRADFORD AND ANTHONY (Boston) .... facing title-page ] BRAS D'OR STEAMBOAT 20 I CENTRAL VERMONT RAILROAD LINE 4 ! CHALONER, J. (St. John) 7 ( COOK'S EXCURSIONS AND TOURS 8, 9 i EASTERN AND MAINE CENTRAL RAILROAD LINE i 2d page cover and page facing it EASTERN STEAMSHIP COMPANY (Newfoundland) .... 16 EXPRESS LINE STEAMERS (St. John River) 6 INTERCOLONIAL RAILWAY 2, 3 INTERNATIONAL STEAMSHIP CO. (Boston to St. John) . . 17 ISLAND PARK HOTEL (Summerside P. E. I.) 12 LITTLE CLASSICS 24 NORTH SHORE STEAMSHIP (New Brunswick) 6 OSGOOD'S AMERICAN GUIDE-BOOKS 1st page colored slip back of book PORTLAND AND HALIFAX STEAMSHIP u PORTLAND ST3AM-PACKET CO 10 PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND STEAMSHIPS . . . . . .18 QUEBEC AND GUXF PORTS STEAMSHIPS 19 ST. LOUIS HOTEL (Quebec) facing 3d page cover BAUNTERER'S SERIES 21 8IRC0M & MARSHALL (Halifkx, N. S.) . . . .... 7 TRAVELERS' INSURANCE COMPANY e |PNION LINE STEAMERS (Bay of Fundy and St. John River) . . 15 %AilNER'S WRITINGS 12 priNDSOR & ANNAPOLIS RAILWAY 14 ? f ,'' I AD VERTISEMENTS. INTERCOLONIAL RAILWAY. 1875. >.«< Through All Bail Line BETWEEN HALIFAX & PICTOU, N. S., AND ST. JOHN AND SHEDIAC, N. B. CONNECTIONS. AT HAIilPAX — with steamships to and from England, Newfoundland, Ber- muda, and West Indies, and also with steamers for all ports on the western shore of Nova Scotia. AT WINDSOR JUNCTION — with Windsor & Annapolis Railway, for Windsor and all places in the Annapolis Valley, and thence by stages to all places in the western portion of Nova Scotia. AT PICTOU li ANDING — with steamers to and from Prince Edward Island, Gape Breton, Shediac, Miramicbi, Restigouch^, Gaspfe, Quebec, and Montreal. AT POINT DUCHENE CShediac> — with steamers for Charlottetown, Sunimersldo, Georgetown, P. E. I, ; Pictou, Port Hood, Port Ilawkesbury. With steamers of Quebec and Gulf Ports S. S. Co., for the ports on the north shore of New Brunswick, and Gulf of St. Lawrence, Father Point, Quebec, and Montreal. AT ST. JOHN — with the Consolidated European and North American Rail- way, for Frcdericton, St. Andrews, St. Stephens, Calais, Woodstock, and Bangor. AT BANGOR connections are made with the Eastern and Maine Central for Augusta, Portland, Boston, New York, and all points in the United States; and also, via Danville Junction, with Grand Trunk Railway, for Quebec, Montreal, 0tta;7a, Toronto, and the West. With the International S. S. Co., for Eastport, Portland, and Boston. STAGE CONNECTIONS at New Glasgow, Londonderry, Shediac, Moncton, Salisbury, and Petitcodiac. THROUGH TICKETS sold to principal points in Canada, the United States, and along the Gulf of St. Lawrence. BAGGAGE CHECKED THROUGH. PULLMAN CARS on all through trains. J. J. WALLACE, Auditor, (General Passenger Affent, Moncton, N. B. R. LUTTRELL, Assistant Superintendent, Moncton, N. B. C. J. BRYDGES, Superintendent GoTernment Railways. AD VERTiaEMENTS. Time Tables. id, Newfoundland, Ber- s on the western shore Lnnapolis Railway, for by stages to all places from Prince Edward Gaspb, Quebec, and lers for Charlottetown, >d, Port Ilawkcsbury. orts on the north shore Quebec, and Montreal. i North American Rail- )dstock, and Bangor. I and Maine Central for I the United States; and for Quebec, Montreal, S. S. Co., for Eastport, lerry, Shediac, Moncton, in Canada, the United BOUND EAST. LEA.VE. St. John, Rothesay, Nauwigewauk, Hampton, arrive, *' leave, Passekeag, Norton, ApohaquI, Sussex, renubsquis, Ansi'mnce, FctK odiac, Salisb 'v, Moncton, arrive, *• leave, Painsec Junction, Memmmcook, Dorchester, Sackville, Aulac, Amherst, Maccan, Athol, Spring Hill, River Philip, Oxford, Thomson, Orponville, Wentworth, Londonderiy, Dcbert, Truro, arrive, '* leave, Brookfleld, Stewiacke, Shiibcnacadle, ]MiIforrt, Elmsdale, Fnfleld. Wpllinjrton, Windsor Junction, Bedford, Halifax, arrive. ■a. s COS- A. M. 8.00 8.23 8.43 8.56 9.06 9.24 9.39 10.00 10.17 10.40 10.55 11.20 11.53 12.00 P.M. 12.25 12.55 1.15 1.45 1.54 2.27 2.45 2.55 3.13 3.41 3.47 3.67 4.15 4.30 5.00 5.13 5.43 6.05 6.29 6.58 7.15 7.26 7.41 7.47 8.03 8.28 8.43 9.07 V. M. 8.00 8.34 8.55 9.10 9.20 9.38 9.55 10.10 10.27 10.52 11.07 11.32 A. H. 12.05 12.10 12.30 1.15 1.38 2.14 2.23 2.46 3.10 3.22 3.40 4.08 4.14 4.24 4.44 4.59 5.35 5.47 6.16 6.30 6.50 7.15 7.28 7.40 7.53 7.58 8.20 8.45 9.00 9.20 BOUND WEST. LEAVE. A. M. 10.15 10.51 11.23 11.43 12.00 P. M. 12.50 1.14 1.55 2.20 2.55 3.17 3.57 4.35 5.00 5.45 jjfi 3 Cm' o » er A. H 11 /.5 11.47 12.23 12.45 1.05 1.22 1.30 2.00 2.35 2.55 3.30 Halifax, Bedford, Windsor Junction, Wellington, Enfield, Elmsdale, Milford, Shubenacadle, Stewiacke, Brookfleld, Truro, arrive, " leave, Debert, Londonderry, Wentworth, Greenville, 1 homson, Oxford, River 1 hillp, Srring HiU, Athol, Maccan, Amherst, arrive, " leave, Aulac, Sackville, Dorchester, Memramcook, Painsec Junction, Moncton. arrive, " leave, Salisbury, Pctitcodiac, Anagancc, Pcnobsquis, Sussex, arrive, " leave, Apohaqui, Norton, Passekeag, Hampton, Nanwigewauk, Rothesay, St. John, arrive. C_w A. H. 8.00 8.20 8.45 9.05 9.28 9.34 9.47 9.58 10.11 10.35 10.56 11.00 11.32 11.46 P.M. 12.23 12.38 12.54 1.04 1.10 1.42 1.55 2.05 2.35 2.45 3.00 309 3.34 ZM 4.34 4.54 5.00 5.33 8.69 6.14 6.39 6.55 7.05 7.17 7.32 7.f0 8.00 8.18 8.24 9.00 £.5? 5. a*;" 9.44 10.10 10.18 10.2tJ 10.35 11.02 11.16 11.27 11.48 11.58 A« H* 12.11 12.20 VlJhb 1.15 1.50 2.10 2.15 2.48 3.12 3.27 3.52 4.13 4.25 4.40 4.57 5.07 5.19 5.40 6.C0 ill » B 3 *" >1 ST ■og S • 2,ui S A. H. 7.40 8.U5 8.20 9.30 10.05 10.45 11.20 11.50 P. M. 12.05 12.25 12.48 1.17 1.33 1.53 2.25 3 00 , Auditor, at, Moncton* N. B> ELL, at, Moncton, N. B> )GES, rnment Bailwajfl. Trains leave St. John at 8 a.m., reaching Point du Chene at 1.05 p.m.; and at 10.15 A. K., arriving at 6.25 p. m. Trains leave Point du Chene at 6.45 a. m., reaching St. John at 3 a.m.; and at 3.45 p. M., arriving at 9 p. m. Trains leave Halifox at 8 A. m., reaching Pictou at 1.50 p. m.; and at 9.45 A. M., ar- riving at 7.05 p. M. Trains leave Pictou at 6.45 A. m., reaching Halifax at 3.30 P. M.; and at 3 P. M., ar- riving at 9.07 P. M. .'•'( i f Ifcn AD VERTISEMENTS. Fnllmaii Cars and all Modem ImproTements. CENTRAL VERMONT R. R. LINE. IS THE Shortest, Quickest, and Best Route BOSTON AND MONTREAL, QUEBEC, OTTAWA, TORONTO, THE ADIRONDAGKS, Thousand Islands, liRkes Champlain, George, St. Begls, Memphremiasoe, AND SARATOGA SPRINGS, SS, Alburgh, Sheldon, and Clare also, tlie GREEN AND WHITE MOUNTAINS. Massena Springs, Alburgh, Sheldon, and Clarendon Springs; also, tlie FOR Round Trip Excursions To all the above points, also the MARITIME FROVINGES, Coal and Iron Regions of PennsylTanla, NIAGARA FALLS, Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul, St. I^ouls, and Colorado, Call or send for the ' "SUMMER EXCURSIONIST," WHICH CONTAINS OVER lOOO DIFFERENT EXCURSIONS TO ALt THE PRINCIPAIi SUMMER RESORTS. FOEE ON APPUCATION. Tickets and full information at all the principal ticket-offices, and at 322 Washington Street,- - Boston, Mass. (Cor. Milk St.) T. EDWARD BOND, Ticket Agent. L. MILLIS, Gen. Sup't Traffic. S. W. CUMMINGS, Passenger Agent. St. Albans, Vt. mmm AD VERTIIEMENTS. se, St. Beslg, e3idon Springs; EXPRESS LINE OF STEAMERS! For Frederioton! FAKE, $ 1.50. SAIIffT JOHN RIVER tt THE niGNinCENT STEAHEB " ROTHESAY " WtU leave SAINT JOHN (Indlantown) for FBEDEBICTON, EVERY MONDAY, WEDNESDAY, AND FRIDAY, At 9 o'clock) A. M. RETURNINa ALTERNATE DAYS AT SAME HOUR. The Beautiful Scenery on the River Saint John is admired by all Tourists ; the distance to Fredericton (84 miles) is quiclcly run, and Excursionists may now enjoy unsurpassed accommodations at low rates, and view, in a few hours, some of the GRANDEST SCENERY on one of the FINEST RIVERS IN THE WORLD. NORTH SHORE STEAMER! UNDER GOVERNMENT CONTRACT. The line gea-going Steamer Qi CITY OF ST. JOHTSr " Passenger Agent. Will leave Point Du Chene (Shediac Terminus Intercolonial Railway) immediately on arrival of Morning Express Train from St. John, EVERY THURSDAY, FOR RICHIBUCTO, CHATHAM, NEWCASTLE, BATHURST, DALHOUSIE, AND CAMPBELLTON. Returnino, — Leaves Campbellton, Dalhousie, and Bathurst on MONDAYS, New- castle and Chatham on TUESDAYS, for Shediac. Passengers arrive at MIBAMTCHI the same day they leave Saint John. A train will leave Point Du Ghene every Tuesday evening, in order to bring through pussengers, by the T.teamer "City of St, John," to Saint John, in time to connect with all lines leaving Saint John on Wednesday morning. To the lovers of the beautiful in Nature, a trip up the North Shore stands almost unrivalled. The scenery along the Bay De Chalenr and Restigouche River is espe- cially picturesque and grand : this, combined with the excellent Jinking to be had there, makes it a route particularly attractive to tourists and pleasure-seekers. OFFICE : 41 Dock Square, St. Jolin, IST. B. ENOCH LUNT & SONS. ^ I 'i:\ i i ' f li ,■ I 6 AD VERTISEMENTS. LARGEST ACCIDENT INSURANCE COMPANY IN THE WORLD. iisrsuRE TOUR LIFE IN THE INSURE AGAINST ACCIDENTS m THE TRAVELERS INSURANCE CO. OF HARTFORD, CONN. liife and Endonrment Insurance of the best forms at Low Cash Rates. General Accident Policies for the year or month, writ- ten by Agents. Permits for Foreign Travel or Sea Voyage (under accident policies) furnished on application. ► Apply to any Agent, or write to the Company, at Hartford, Conn. JAS. G. BATTERSON, President. RODNEY DENNIS, Sec'y. JOHN E. MORRIS, Ass't Sec*y. Boston Office, 221 Washington Street ; New York Office, 207 Broadway ; Montreal Office, 199 St. Jamea Street; Chicago Office, 84 La Salle Street. AD VER USE HE NTS, Broadway ; Montreal SIRCOM & MARSHALL, (Successors to DUFFUS & CO., ^stabMed 1826) IMPORTERS OF Silks, Mantle Velvets, Laces, Ribbons, Shawls, Mantles, Hosiery, Gloves, Haberdashery, Flowers, &c. General Household Goods, Mourning Goods, Wedding Outfits, &c. New No. 155 GRANVILLE STREET, Old No. 2, HALIFAX, W, S, VISITORS TO SL JOHN, N. B., IN WANT OT DBUOS, ANILINE AND OTHER DYES, Fancy Brushes, Soaps, Perftimes, AND ALL OTHEB GOODS IN THE LINE, WILL FIND A rmST-QUALITT ASSOETMENT AT THE STORE OP J. GHALiOnrXSR^ Cor. King and Q-ermain Streets. Vegetable and Flower Seeds in Season. Orders promptly for- warded. Prescriptions and popular Becipes prepared. n It I! ■■: ^r' 1 , , 'A 1 I ; HI I' f| 5 n :li:- I li ' I : I \l ! ': ^,i - t r! ■; 8 AH VER TISE MEATS. COOK'S EXCURSIONS, TOURS, AND GENERAL TRAVELLING ARRANGEMENTS. COOK, SON» & JENKINS, - - 261 Broadway, New York. THOMAS COOK & SON, Fleet Street, London, FIONEERS, IN AUGUR ATORS, aud PROMOTERS of the principal SyBtema of Tours established in Great Britain and Ireland and the Continent of Europe, have opened Branches of their House in America, and are now giving increased attention to ordinary travelling arrangements, wfth a view t» RENDERING IT EASY, PRACTICABLE, AND ECUiOMICAL During the past thirty-five years, over four million travellers have visited near and distant points, under their management^ safely and pleasantly, r Their arrangements are now so extensive, that they cover portions of the fonr iiuarters of the glob&.' At their office in New York can be found the Railway and Steamship Tickets used by the travellers for a journey through alt parts of IRELAND, GERMANY, SPAIN, THE LEVANT, SCOTLAND, BATARIA. ITALY, PALESTINE, ENGLAND, AUSTRIA, TURKEY, INDIA, WALES, HOLLAND, EGYPT, CHINA, FRANCE, BELGIUM, GREECE, &c.» OR EUROPE, ASIA, AFRICA, & AMERICA. Sold, in all cases, at reductions from ordinary rates. FOR AMERICA, MESSRS. COOK, SON, & JENKINS have for three years past fteen engaged in perfecting in this country their system of Tours, and beg to announce that their Tickets are now received by upwards of One Hundred and Fifty of the leading Rail- ways and Steamboat Companies of the United States and Canada. - AT THEIR 0FRCE8, < now established at the places named below, can be procured complete Sets of Tickets from all the leading business-centres, to travel to and visit all the places of Tourist AD VER TI SEME NTS. 11 GREAT EXCURSION ROUTE TO THE BRI TISH PBOVINGES. MAIL STEAMSHIP LINE TO XX .A. Xj X F Jl. 2C , ig*. S., CHABLOTTETOWN, P. E. I., STRAIT OF GAN80, AND ISLAND OF CAPE BRETON. The Magnificent New Side-Wheel Steamship A.I-M'BJLOTJ'r-XS:, (Built Expressly for the Route) W. A. COLBY, Commander, Having splendid Cabin and Statc-Room Accommodations, WLL LEAVE PORTLAND EVERY SATURDAY AT 5.30 P.M. (or on arrival of Train leaving Boston at noon) For Halifax Direct^ Beturningr, will leave Halifax on TUESDAYS, at 8.30 P. M, Passengers desiring an ail -water trip can obtain through tickets from Boston via Steamer to Portland. THROUGH TICKETS FOR SALE In New York on board the Steamers of the Fall River, Nonvich, and Stonington Lines, and also at the office of the Maine Steamship Co., Pier 38, East River ; In Boston at the Eastern or Boston & Maine Railway Stations, and on board the Steamers for Portland. . „ m^* Passengers are landed on arrival at Portland directly to tli9 Steamer (tna Eastern Railroad only), without expense or transfer. EXCURSION TICKETS TO HALIFAX AND RETURN For sale ia Boston at 134 Washhigton Street, and at the Railway Stations, also on board the Portland Steamers. Ba^^ai^e checked through from Boston. State-Rooms can be secured in advnncc by mall or by application at the A Rents' Offices. WM. WEEKS, Ag't, I J.B.COYLE,Jr.,Gen.AK't, I GEO. P. BLACK, Ag*t, India Wharf, Boston. | Franklin Wbarf, Portland. | Halifax, N. S. i ■* < p, Si "I M ' * It h W 01 Hi? :H}lJ! ' '^ l:j ylZ> VEHTISEMtlNTS. SUMMER RESORT. ISIiAIffD PARK HOTEII.^ SUMMERSIDE, !Prince Ed^vard Island. This New IIot»l, accommodating aboat one hundred and fifty Rucsts, will open Ist June. It contains, in addition to the Hlccpin^; aiiartnu nt,s, a number of public and private Parlors, Diiliard, Heading, Smoking, barber's, and Bar rooms. Plcturesqurly situated on an island, one hundred and forty acres in extent. In Dedequc Bay, directly opposite the rising town of Summersldc, It combines the retirement insured by the insular position of its surroundings with equal convenience to a position In the town. Beautiful views of the harbor are obtainable from the windows and roof of the Hotel, and from the carriagc-drlvc around the Island. The grounds are being tastefully laid out with walks and drives, the greater part being left finely wooded. Sca-Bathlng can be enjoyed with suitable privacy on various parts of the beach near the Hotel, dressing-rooms having been constructed for the purpose. A Ferry Steamer, belong- ing to the Hotel, will ply frequently to and from Summerside, and will regularly meet all steamers from Shediac and Charlottetown ; and can be made available for pic- nics, fishing and shooting parties, and pleasure cxcureions on the Bay. Horses, carriages, rowing and sail boats, always on hire. Families and parties can have con- tiguous suites of rooms, if required, by sending a reasonable notice beforehand. Terms, S^>00 per day. Special arranseiuents can be made for summer residence. FRESH OYSTERS IN ABUNDANCE. J. L. HOLMAN, Proprietor. Summerside, F. E. I., 1875. BADDECK AND THAT SORT OF THING. By Charles Dudley Warnbu, author of •' My Summer in a Garden," etc. $1.00. " For perfect drollery of situation and sentiment^ and the daintiest surprises of fun, and for the traveller's good-humored perception of aljsurditles told with sprightlinc!?s and the most charming al>an(lon, wc account Mr. Warner's description of his pilgrim- age to Baddeck as one of the most wittily playful things in our literature since the * Sentimental Journey.' " — Christian Union. ' Warner's 'My Summer in a Garden $ i .00 Warner's Saunterings 1.50 Warner's Back-Log Studies 2.00 JC^" Three of the most charmingly humorous books in American (or any other) literature. %* For sale hy BookseJlers. Sent, post-paid, on receipt of price, hy the Publishers, JAMES B. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. T. md. rupsts, will open Ist mbcr of public and )ms. Picturrsqurly doquo Bay, directly lent insured by the osltlon In the town, id roofof the Hotel, being tastefully laid oded. 8ea-Bathlng ich near the Hotel, ry Steamer, belong- wlll regularly meet e available for plc- the Bay. Horses, irtles can have con- Jeforehand. n be made for roprietor. NG. en," etc. ^1.00, 8t surprises of fUn, I with sprighfllness tlon of his pilgrim- iterature since the • . . $ 1 .00 . . . 1.50 . . . 2.00 can (or any other) bt/ the Publishers, iO., Boston. AD VEUTIHEilEyrS. 13 A CHEAP AMD DELIGHTFUL SUMMEB TBIF. Boston, Halifax, and Prince Edward Island Steamship Line. Boston to Charlottetown, P. E. I., STOPPING AT HALIFAX, PORT HAWKE8BURY, G. B., & PICTOU, N. 8. The fovorito sea-goinff steamships CARROLL (1400 tons) Sl WORCESTER (1200 tons) CAPT 8. E. ^VBIGHT, CAPT. B. S. DOANE, Leave T WHARF, Boston, for the above ports, EVERY SATURDAY, AT 12 O'CLOCK. These steamers connect with the NOVA SCOTIA railways and coast-lines at Halifax and Pictou, giving opportunities to visit the chief attractions of the Mari- time Provinces. At Port Ilawkcsbury they connect with stages for all parts of the Island of CAPE BBETON and for the renowned and beautiful BBAS D'OB LAKES. From Charlottetown the tourist can visit any part of Prince Edward Island, by the trains of the new Oovcmment Railway. THE STEAMSHIPS OF THIS LINE HAYS UNSURPASSED ACCOMMODATIONS FOR PASSENGERS. For tickets and further information, apply to WM. H. RINO, or K- H. ADAMS, 18 T Wharf. 319 Washington St. ¥ >' Ui -'• > '' : ! I ill. ' . -fi V 'M '! ' •' 1 ; 14! THE QUICKEST AND CHEAPEST ROUTE BETWEEN HALIFAX AND ST. JOHN, Making close connection at the latter city with the trains of the European and North American Railway, and also with the splendid steamers of the International Stcamshiij Company to and from Portland, Boston, and New York. B^* Tourists will find this the pieasantest route from New York, Boston, Portland, and St. John to Halifax and all parts of Nova Scotia. ffi^" 'ihe road traverses tlie Valley of Acadia and the magnificent scenery made celebrated in the noem of Evanvrdine. Express Trains leave Halifax daily at 8.30 a. m. .br Annapolis , where connection is made every Tuesi'vy, I iiuksday, Fkid.vy, and Satirday with Steani- erH for St. .lohn. Steamers leave St. John at 8 a.m. for Annapolis every jMond\t, Wednesday, Kimday, and Satukday, and connect with the '2 r. M. ex- press-train for Halifax. Through Tickets via this, railway may bo had at the bookinjj-offlces of the Eastern and Alaine Central Hallways, and on board the Interna- tional Steamship Company's Steamers. P. JNNES, Gcn.Manaqer. "P Mm 'h II (Q ^»s-k^J ^ r iND ST. JOHN, J European and he International ITork. ork, Boston, otia. It sceneiymade nnapolis , where AY with Steani- ^ nnapolis every the 2 r. ji. ex- bo had at the ard the Intema- 'Cn. Afanafler. I , AD VERTISEMENTS. 15 ^- UNION LINE Bay and River Steamers. >^, ST. JOHN TO HALIFAX. Shortest, Quickest, and Cheapest Route. steamer EMPRESS (or SCUD) wUl leave her wharf at REED'S POINT, at 8 A. M., for DIGBY and ANNAPOLIS, as follows : — January^ February, and Mai-ch eveiy Wednesday and Saturday. Betnm- Ing same day. AprU, May« and June, evcity Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday. Ketumlng same day. July, August, and September, every Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Sat- urday. Beturning on Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday. October, November, and December, every Monday, Wednesday, and Sat- urday. Returning same day. Connecting with Express Trains, Windsor and Annapolis Railway, for Kentville, Wolfville, Windsor, Haliikx, &c. Also with Stages for Yarmouth and Liverpool, N. S. J^— The Railway runs through the beautiful and picturesque Valley of Acadia (celebrated in Longfellow's "Evamgeune"). FARES: St. John to Digby, $1.30; to Annapolis, $2.00; to Halifax, $5.00. ST. JOHN TO FREDEEICTON. Fare, S1.50. Steamer DAVID WESTON leaves UNION LINE WHARF, Indlantown, for Fredericton (calling at intermediate points) every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, at 9 A. M. Returning following days. For Grand Lake and Salmon River. Steamer MAT QUEEN leaves her wharf at Indlantown every Wednesday and Saturday at 8 A. m. Returning on Monday and Wednesday. THROUGH TICKETS FOR ALL POINTS WEST for sale on board the steamers at reduced rates. IiOW BATES OF FREIGHT. For flirther Information apply to SMALL & HATHEWAT, 30 Dock Street, ST. JOHN, N. B. I^.' I I' H n i i: I I ;i •M 16 AD VER TI SEME NTS. Eastern Steamship Go. ■*^*- H. M. MA.IL LINE BETWEEN HALIFAX, N. S., St. Johns^ Newfoundland. steamer *^ VIRGO " (noo tons), Capt. Burcliell, Will sail from Halifks for St. Johns, Newfoundland, Touching at Sydney, Cape Breton, BOTH WAYS, EVERY ALTERNATE TUESDAY AT 9 P.M., Commencing May 25, 187& THE " VIRGO " HAS BEEN THOROUGHLY OVERHAULED DURING THE PAST WINTER, and with Cabins and State-rooms on the Upper Deck, offers SUPERIOR ACCOMMODATIONS FOR TRAVELLERS. FARES: Sydney, $8.00, St. Johns, $15.00 INCLUDING STATE-BOOM. For farther information inquire of J. TAYLOR WOOD, Agent. HalifEiac, N. S., May 8, 1875. ip Co. » land. Burcliell, Id. '* Breton, 9 Pi Ml) PAST WINTER, >ffer8 iVELLERS. h $15.00 Agent. AD VERTI3EMENTS. 17 ABBANGEMENT FOR 1875. INTERNATIONAL STEAMSHIP GOMFY LINE OF STEAMERS BETWEEN Boston, Portland, Eastport, & St John, N. B., WITH CONNECTIONS TO CALMS, ME., HALIFAX, N.S., GHARLOTTETOWN, P.LI., &;o., &:o., &;c. The favorite and superior seargoing Steamers of this Une, NEW YOKK - - GIT7 OF FOBJIAIID NEW BRUNSWICK - Capt E. B. Winchester, Capt. S. H. Fike» - Capt. D. S. Hall, Leave the end of Commercial Wharf, Boston, at 8 A. M., and Rail- road Wharf, Portland, at 6 P. M., for Eastport and St. John, N. B., with usual connections as follavvs : — In April, May, and to June 15, one of these steamers wiU leave every Monday and Thursday. From June 15, and through July„ August, and September^ every Monday* Wednesday, and Friday. In October, November, and December, every Monday ami Thursday. Passengers wishing to talte train to Portland can do so by the Morning and Noon tr3i>» of Boston & Maine and Eastern Sailroads from Boston, connecting -with the Steamers at Portland at 6 p. m. Passengers forwarded by connecting steamers and railroad lines to Calais and Houlton, Me.; St. Andrews, Woodstock. Fredericton, and Shcdiac, N. B.; Amherst, Truro, JSew Glasgow, Pictoir, Digby, Annapolis, Kentvllle, Windsor, Halifax, and Liverpool, N. S..; Sununerside and Charlottetown, P. E. I. RATES OF FARE FROM BOSTON To EASTPORT, S6.00; CALAIS, 95.50; ST. JOHN, S5.50; DIGBT » 7.00; ANNAPOLIS, 8 7.50; KENTVILLE, S8.50; WINDSOR, 99.00; HALIFAX, via Annapolis. 99.60 ; via all rail from St. John, 9 11.00 ; PICTOU, 811.00; SUMMERSIDE, 99.60; CHARLOTTETOWN, 9 10.50. FARES FROM PORTLAND to the above places, one dollar less. THROUGH TICKETS AN© STATE-ROOMS secnred at the Agents* Offlccs or of the Clerks on board, who will also furnish, on application, a circular, with map and full description of the route. AGENTS: A. K. STTJBBS, Portland; GEORGE HAYES, Eastport; H. W. CHISHOLM, St. John, N. B. W. H. KILBY, End of Commercial Wharf, BOSTON. J ';■ >■ ) ' 18 AD VER TI SEME NTS.. Prince Edward Island STEAIKEERS, UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE, Leave CHABLOTTETOWN for SUMMERSIDB and SHEDIAC every MONDAY and THURSDAY MORNING at 3 o'clock. lieave SUMMERSIDE for SHEDIAC every day on arrival of morning train f roui Cliarlottetown. I/eave SHEDIAC for SUMRTERSIDE every day, on arrival of morning train from St. John. Leave SUMMERSIDE for CHARLOTTETOWN every WEDNES- DAY and SATURDAY EVENING, at 6 o'clock. IAT and tn Halifax. »AY and FRI- EIX. tOTTETOWN RNING at 5 [ONDAT and lilways and Inter- Pictou with trains and Steamers for ninsforCbarlotte- wkesbury. S, Sec'y. AD VE& '1 J SEME NTS. 19 TOURIST! IN ORDER TO OBTAIN CORRECT INFORMATION REGARDING THE JOURNEY iJfD ALL RESORTS ON THE Gulf of St. Lawrence, Saguenay River, Quebec, Montreal, White Mountains, etc., -AND- 1,000 DIFFERENT EXCURSION ROUTES AT REDUCED RATES, CALL AT 240 r It^') Washington St., THE GENERAL OFFICE OF The Montreal and Boston Air Line, The Fassumpsic Railroad, The Quebec and Gulf Forts Steamship Co., The St. Lawrence and Saguenay Steamer Line, The Richelieu Line of Steamers between Mon- treal and Quebec. GUSTAVE LEVE, Genl Agent ir^^Call for Illustrated and Descriptive Circulars and Time-Table. 20 AD VER TI SEME NTS. fc.M ;^ \\\f ! , \ fl ii The Speediest,Safest,& most Comtbrtable MODE OF TBATEIj BETWEEN HALIFAX AND SYDNEY, C. B., IS BT THE MiAlTD ROUTE, Via Intercolonial Railway, to Pictou, Prince Edward Island steamers to Port Uawkesbury, and from West Bay dowu to Bras d'Or Lake, twice a week, "^ AND NO SEA-SI€KNESS. THE POWERFUL SIDE-WHEEL STEAMSHIP NEPTUNE Capt. HOWARB BEATTIE, Carrying II. M. Mails, will leave Sydney every TUESDAY and THURSDAY morn- ing, passing tiirough the entire length of the Bras d'Or Lake to West Bay, con- necting with the P. E. Island steamers at Port Hawkesbury for Pictou ; thence by Intercolonial Railway to Halifax. . PASSENGERS LEAViKG HALIFAX. TUESDAY and THURSDAY mornings, train for Pictou will connect with the NEPTUNE the Pame evening, and reach Sydney the following morning. The NEPTUNE will also leave Sydney every FRIDAY AFTERNOON, via Big Bras d'Or, for Calling at Kelly's Cove, and return the following day. THROUGH TICKETS from Sydney, via P. E. Island steamers, to Pictou, Charlottetown, and Shediac. Intercolonial Railway to St. John and International S. S. Company to Portland and Boston. One first-class ticket, $ 14.50. Any other information will be furnished by Capt. Beattie or any of tho following r L i AGENTS HALIFAX .... SYDNEY NORTH SYDNEY LITTLE BRAS D'OR . BADDECK .... WEST BAY .... CHRISTMAS ISLAND PORT HAWKESBURY . WHYCOCOMAH JOHN TAYLOR & CO. C. H. HARRINGTON. WILLIAM PROCTOR. JOHN H. CHRISTIE. W. R. IRISH. ANGUS McPHEE. H. F. McDOUGALL. ALEX H. SUTHERLAND. PETER McDonald. )mtbrtable , C. B., 1 steamers to Port ice a week, IP J) BEATTIE, THURSDAY mom- to West Bay, con- Pictou; thence by IFAX. 1 connect with the I morning. DERNOON, via Big lay. teamers, to Pictou, and International 14.50. y of tho following HLOR & CO. RINGTON. PROCTOR. HRISTIE. H. PHEE. (UGALL, SUTHERLAND. 30NALD. ADVERTISEMENTS. 21 THE SAUNTERER'S SERIES. ■ •■ ** An exqalsite series of Httle books, irhose dainty beanty at once makes the hand a friend and the eye a lover, — nrhlle the varied freshness and grace of their contents charm their readers to admiration and delight." \ _____ Each volume complete, tastefully hound and stamped, with red edges. Saunterin^s. By Charles Dudley Warner, Author of " My Summer in a Garden," " Backlog Studies,'- etc $1.50 Bits of Travel. By H. H. With a Portrait of " A German Land- lady," and a Picture of Oasteia 1.50 A Chance Acquaintance. By W. D. Howells, Author of " Their Wedding Journey," etc 1.60 The Tour of the World In Eighty Days. By Jules Verne, Author of '' Twenty Thousand Leagues under the Seas," etc. . . . 1.50 Among the Isles of Shoals. By Mrs. Celia Thaxter. With Four Illustrations by H. Femn . . 1.50 Hap-Hazard. A Vohime of Travel and Character Sketches in America and Europe. By Kate Field . 1.50 South Sea Idyls. Travel Pictures of the South Pacific and its Islands. By Charles Warren Stoddard 1.50 Normandy Picturesque. By Henry Blackburn, Author of " Artists and Arabs," etc. With Illustrations by the Author . . . 1.50 Artists and Arabs. By Henry Blackburn, Author of " Nor- mandy Picturesque," etc. With Illustrations by the Author . . . 1.50 '^ r. Ox, and other Stories. By Jules Verne, Author of " The Tour of the World in Eighty Days, ' etc. Illustrated .... 1.00 Gunnart A Norse Romance. ByH. H. Boyesen . . 1.50 Ten Days in Spain. By Kate Field, Author of "Hap- Hazard," etc 1.50 Baddecl<, and that Sort of Thing. By Charles Dudley Warner 1.00 The Wrecic of the Chancellor, and Martin Paz. By Jules Veene, Author of " The Tour of the World in Eighty Days " . . . 1.50 Whip and Spur. By George E. Waring, formerly Colonel of the 4th Missouri Cavalry 1.25 Their Wedding Journey. By W. D. Howells . . .1.50 *#* For sale hy aU Booksellers. Sent, post-paid, on receipt of price, by the Publishers, JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. 22 AD VER TI SEME NTS. Books of European Travel. ■i i '4 ' 'iir ! ':K\ : i-\ Saunterings. By Charles Dudley Warner, author of " My Summer in a Garden," etc. $ 1.60. . . . . " The book contains a. little about England and France, more about Swit- zerland and Holland, and a great deal concerning South Oermanj'and Italy. There is not a dull page in it ; but it glows with a quiet drollery and a genuine wit that is refreshing, and not provoking, as wit too often is." — Springfield Republican. Castilian Days. By John Hay. 12mo. % 2.00. " A most attractive volume, in which Colonel Hay writes easily and picturesquely of the cities, streets, and buildings, and of the history, politics, and domestic life and character of "le inhabitants, of that unique, old-fashioned country [Spain]." — Lon- don Spectator. Ha-wthome's European Sketches and Notes. Our Old Home. Essays on English towns, country scenes, people, and customs. $2.(10. iEngU^h Note-Bookg. Containingamultitude of hints and flying sketches of England and the f:nghsh. $ 2 00. French and Italian Note- Books. Full of Hawthome-ish observations and reflections. $ 2 00. Hoppin's Travel Sketches. Ups and Dovirng on L.and and Water* 9 10.00. Crossing the Atlantic. $8.00. Two very mirth-provoking books, diverting to look at while voyaging, pleasant to examine as reminders of travel past. The Lands of Scott By James F. Hunnewell. 12mo. $2.50. " It is a delig-htfu! epitome of the great author's life and works, the reader being introduced to a detailed acquaintance with these, while he is led through the locadi- ties which the genius of Scott has celebrated." — Buffalo Courier. Six Months in Italy. By George S. Hillard. $ 2.00. " The record of a brilliant episode in the life of a scholar, which has filled his memory with images alike beautiful and enduring. It is almost minute enough in its descriptions for a guide-book, yet abounds in just and sensible remarks, well-in- formed criticisms, and varied learning." — Putnarn's Monthly. Notes of Travel and Study in Italy. By Charles Eliot Norton. $ 1.25. " Mr. Norton is no ordinary tourist." — Phila. Press. %* For sale by BookseUers. Sent, post paid, on receipt of price by the Publishers, JAMES B. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. ravel. a, author of more about Swit- nd Italy. There nuine wit that is lepubiican. ). nd picturesquely domestic life and Spain]." — Lo«- oes, people, and id flying sketches i-ish observations ^ng, pleasant to 3LL. 12mo. the reader being rough the locali- 0. $ 2.00. h has filled his inute enouf^h in emarlis, well-in- RLES Eliot tf price by the ., Boston. AD VERTISEMENTS. 23 Books of American Travel. Ne-w England : A full, concise, accurate guide-book to all the cities, mountain and seafiido reports, and memorable places in New England, ludiripensable to every tourist within these six States. With many Mans and Plana. $2.00. ^ The Adirondacks : What summer comforts and recreations they offer. How to get there and to gain the most health and benefit from them, — and a very readable book, too. By W. 11. H. Murray. AVith Maps and Illustrations. $2.00. Cheaper Edition, without maps, $ 1.60. Newport : Some of its picturesque, romantic, and historical fea- tures, very charmingly described (and illustrated with Heliotypes) in " Oldport Da; -^ " (.1? 250), and in " Malbone ; an Oldport Romance » (9 1.50). By T. W. HiGOINSON. Boston Illustrated Boston and its suburbs. A clear, full, interesting representation of Very amply illustrated. 60 cents. Seaside Studies: A charming description, with illustrations of New England Polyps, Jelly-Fishes, and Star-Fishes. By ALI:xA^DER and Mrs. B. C. AOA38I7. $3.00. Woods and By- Ways of New England: A delightful book, full of outdoor and forest information, " penetrated by the flavor and fra- grance of our New England woods and fields." By Wilson Flaqo. With Ueliotype Illustrations. 8vo. $5.00. Thoreau's Excursions, Maine Woods, Cape Cod, Wal- den, Canada, Concord and Merrimack Biverst Marvellously keen and minute in obserration, abounding in original suggestions, and exceedingly interesting. $ 2.00 each. in the Sierra Nevada. By Clarence Mountaineering KiNQ. 92.50. " A book bracing in tone, vivid in description, exciting in adventure, and abound- ing in valuable information. Since Tyndall's volume on th.i Alps, we have read nothing so vigorous and stimulating as Mr. King's narrative tf mountain explora- tion." — Boston Globe. Historic Fields and Mansions of Middlesex. A familiar description of numerous places, scenes, and buildings in Middlesex County, Mass., with records, reminiscences, and anecdotes of the men and events which have made it famous. By S. A. Drake. Heliotype Illustrations. $ 5.00. Old Landmarks and Historic Personages of Boston: Containing an immense amount of information about Boston, the changes it has undergone, and the men and women who liave contributed to its renown. By S. A. Drake. Fully illustrated. $ 3.00. Hawthorne's American Note-Books. servation and felicitous description. $ 2.00. Full of curious ob- %* For sale by Booksellers. Sent, post-paid, on receipt of price by the Publishers^ JAMES B. OSGOOD & CO, Boston. 24 AD VERTISEMENTS. ;! ff!' LITTLE CLASSICS, "A series of exquisitely printed little Tolumes in flexible binding and red edges, which gather up the very choicest things in our lit- erature in the way of short tales and sketches."— ^ttiTo/o Courier. The Prose Series indudes twelve volomes, as follows : I. Exile. II. Intellect. m. Tragedy. IV. Life. V. Laughter. VI. Love. VII. Romance. VIII. Mystery. IX. Comedy. X. Childhood. XI. Heroism. Xn. Fortune. Tasteftilly bound. Price* S 1.00 each. " Too mnch praise cannot be accorded the projectors of this work. It lays, for a very small sum, the cream of the best writers before the reader of average means. It usually happens that very few, except professional people and scholars, care to read all that even the most famous men have written. They want hi% best work, — the one people talk most about,— and when they have read that they are satisfied." — New York Commereial Advertiser. " Confessedlv the best miscellaneous collection of short stories anywhere attain- able."— i^aryord Courant. " There is no other collection of short stories equal in value and variety." —Au^on Advertiser. " Every one of these books is worth reading and buying." — Springfield Sepubliean. " These selections are made with exquisite taste, and appear in the daintiest little volumes imaginable."— Chicago Post. " The series contains nearly every gem of prose English literature, and whoever wishes to have the best story of a great writer, without the encumbrance of ail his worlLS, will do well to get this series of ' Little Classics.' "—Boston Pilot. *#♦ For sale ly all Booksellers. Sent post-paid on receipt of price by the publishers, JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. ixible binding iffs In our Ut- Talo Courier. ows: ance. ;ery. 9dy. Lhood. ism. me. k. It lays, for a erage means. It lars, care to read jest work, — the are satisfied." — nywhere attain- itiety."— Boston field Republican. e daintiest little re, and whoever brance of aU his 'Hot. pt of price by Boston. THE MIDDLE STATES: A HANDBOOK FOB TBATELLEBS. A Guide to the Chief OiUeB and Popular Resorts of the Middle States, and to their Scenery and Historic Attractions ; with the Northern Frontier from Niagara Falls to Montreal ; also Baltimore, Washington, and Northern Virginia. With Maps of the Middle States, the Adirondack Mountains, the Oats- kill Mountains, the Hudson Biver, Long Island, and the Environs cf New York and Philaidelphia ; and Plans of Baltimore, Brooklyn, Buffalo, the Oentral Park, Greenwood Cemetery, Montreal, New York City, Niagara Falls, Ottawa, Philadelphia, Pittsburg, B.ochester, Saratoga, Toronto, and Washington. Price, $2.00. " No previous mMiiial is so copious or so exact in its treatment, or can be consulted to 80 great advantage by the tourist in the Middle States as a trustworthy guide." — New York 2Viftime. " The maps alone are worth the pricf of the volume, which is crammed with inform** tion like a traveller's valise with luggage." — New York Daily Graphic . " The handbook for the New England States waa by fiir the best American gnide-bo. PervTlaa 8700 Capt. R. 8. Watts. Circassian S700 Capt. J. Wylw. Canadian 2000 Capt Millkb. Hibernian 8484 Lt. AaoHRa, R.N.R. Manitoban 81&0 Capt. H. Wiui. NoraScotlan 8800 Capt. Riobabosoit. Corintklan 2400 Capt. J. Scott. Scandinavian 8000 Lr. SMnH, R.N.R. PliQBnlcian 2800 Capt. Scott. Caspian 8200 Capt. Trocks. Waldantian 2600 CAPT.J.G.STEPnEn PrnsslaB 8000 Capt. RrroaiE. Acadian 1850 Capt. Cadel. Aastrian 2700 Oapt. OaANUi. Newfonndland 1600 Capt. Mtuks. Tbe Steamers of the Liverpool Line sail Semi-weekly between Liverpool and Quebec throughout the season of Summer Navigation ; and from Liverpool every Thursday, and Arom Portland every Saturday during the season of Winter Navig;«tion, the vessels of the Mail Line calling at Movllle to receive and land Passengers and Maiis to and from Ireland and Scotland. The Steamers of the Halifax Line sail fortnightly between Liverpool and Quebec, or Bal- timore via Halifax, N. S., and St. Johns, N.F., during the season of Summer Navigation; and between Liverpool and Baltimore, via Halifax, during the season of Winter Naviga- tion. The steamers of the Glasgow Line sail weekly between tbe Clyde and Quebec during Summer, and at intervals I)etween Glasgow and Portland during Winter. RATES OF PASSAGE. From Quebec or Portland to Iiiverpool or liondonclerry. — Cabik, 870 and $80, accordintr to accommodation. Steerage, $2-5. Children under 12 years or age, $6 per head in Atter Cabin, and 9 5 per head in Forward Berths ; under 1 year, Free. In Steerage, over 1 year Bnd nnder 12, $i per head ; under 1 year, Free. Ser>-ants in Cabin, 850. Steerage Passengers require to provide their own Beds and Bedding, and Eating and Drinking Utensils. From Quebec or Portland to Glasgro-w. — Cabin, $60 : Intebhkdiatb, $40; Stbeuagb, $24. Children under 12 years of age, $5 per head m Cabin; $3 per bead In Intermediate ; and $2 per head In Steerage. Under 1 year. Free. From Halifax to St. Johns, or vice Tersa- — Cabin, $20 or $18; Children from 1 to 12 years, $ 2 psr year. Stuebaob, $ 6 ; Children from 1 to 12 years, 60c. per year. From Baltimore to St. Jobns. or vice versa. — Cabin, $35 ; Children from 1 to 12 years, $ 3 per year. Steebagb, $ 20 ; "Children from 1 to 12 years, $ 1 .75 per year. From Baltimore to Hallfbx, or vice versa. — Cabik, $20 ; Children from 1 to 12 years, $2 per year. Steebagb, $ 12 ; Children from 1 to 12 years, $ 1 per year. Quebec, Allans, Bab, A Co. ; in Toronto, H. Bovblier ; In Hamilton, Gbo. A. YocNG ; In Ottawa, D. W. Cowa&d & Co. ; in Hallflnx, N. S., S. Cttnakd & Co. ; hi St. John, N. B., W. Thomson & Co. ; in St. Johns, N. F., Hon. A. Shea ; In Port- land, Me., J. L. Fabmbb ; in Norfolk, Ta., Col. W. Lamb ; in Baltimore, Md.» A. ScHUMACBBB A Co. ; in Detroit, E. Reidt ; in Chicaeo, Allan & Co. H. & A, ALLAN, Agents/ Comer Touvllle and Common Streets, Montreal. -^-