^ ^\l> o !^^^. IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) A. ^■ . NARRATIVE OP A JOURNEY ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, TO THE COLUMBIA RIVER, AND A VISIT TO THE SANDWICH ISLANDS, CHILI, &c. WITH A SCIENTIFIC APPENDIX. A<>y^ — <4;a, iff .=:. \e^ V/. J^ BY JOHN K. TOWNSEND, Memher ol'tlie Acndemy of Natural Sciences of Philadelphia eipiiia. DOKJCAIB COPY. SOLD. PHILADELPHIA: HKNRY PEIIKINS, 134 CHESTNUT STREET. BOSTON I PERKINS k MARVIN. 1839. V*, ■A\ Emtebed according to Act of Congress, in the year 1839, by JoUt? K. TOWNSEND, in the Office of the Clerk of the Disirict Court of the Eastern District of Pennsylvania, '{ |IV.:^|>l'nJ r y 1' AlAiM MEBKIHEW AND THOMPSON, PRINTERS, No. 7 Carter's Alley. .!^ ■-*«■ ADVERTISEMENT. The Columbia River Fishing and Trading Company was formed in 1834, by several individuals in New York and Boston. Capt. Wveth, having an interest in the enterprise, collected a party of men to cross the continent to the Pacific, with the purpose chiefly of establishing trading posts beyond the Rocky Mountains and on the coast. The idea of making one of Capt. Wyeth*s party was suggested to the author by the eminent botanist, Mr. Nuttall, who had himself determined to join the expedition across the North American wilder- ness. Being fond of Natural History, particularly the science of Ornithology, the temptation to visit a country hitherto unexplored by naturalists was inesistible ; and the following pages, originally penned for the family-circle, and without the slightest thought of publication, will furnish some account of his travels. 27709 ERRATA. Page 9, sixth line of the Contents, for "aharon," read eharon. Page 79, ninth line from the bottom, for " for which we have exchanged," read which we have exchanged for. Page 84, for " methiglen," read melheglin. Page 120, third line of the chapter, for " winnowing," read winnytng. Page 248, third line from the bottom, for " hallowed," read hallooed. Page 286, third line from the bottom, in note, for " dulcits," read dulcis. \. * m' CONTENTS. Cmaptir I, Arrival at St Louis — Preparations for the journey — Saque In- dians — Their appearance, dress, and manners — Squaws — Commencement of a pedestrian tour — Sandhill cranes — Prairie settlers — Their hospitality — Wild pigeons, golden plovers and prairie hens — Mr. P. and his daughters — An abundant repast — Simplicity of the prairie maidens— A deer and turkey hunt — Loutre Lick hotel — A colored charon — Comfortable quarters — Young men of the west — Reflections on leaving home — Loquacity of the inhabi- tants — Gray squirrels — Boonville — Parroquets — Embarkation in a steam- boat — Large catfish — Accident on board the boat — Arrival at Independence — Description of the town — Encampment of the Rocky Mountain company — Character of the men — Preparation for departure— Requisites of a leader — Backwoods familiarity — Milton Sublette and his band — Rev. Jason Lee, the missionary — A letter from home — Mormonites — Military discipline and its consequences, 9 CiiAFTGH. II. Departure of the caravan — A storm on the prairie — Arrange- ment of the camp — Kanzas Indians — Kanzas river — Indian lodges — Passage of the river — Buflalo canoes — Kanzas chief — Upper Kaw village — their wig- wams — Catfish and ravens — Return of Mr. Sublette — Pawnee trace — Deser- tion of three men — Difficulties occasioned by losing the trail — Intelligence of Mr. Sublette's party — Escape of the band of horses — Visit of three Otto In- dians — Anecdote of Richardson, the chief hunter — his appearance and cha- racter — White wolves and antelopes — Buffalo bones — Sublette's deserted camps — Lurking wolves, 27 Chapter III. Arrival at the Platte river — Wolves and antelopes— Anxiety of the men to see buffalo — Visit of two spies from the Grand Pawnees — Forced march — A herd of buffalo — Elk — Singular conduct of the horses — Killing a buflfalo — Indian mode of procuring buffalo — Great herd — Adventure with an Indian in the tent — Indian feat with bow and arrow — Notice of the Paw- nee tribes — Disappearance of the buffalo from the plains of the Platte — \ hunting adventure — Killing a buffalo — Butchering of a bull — Shamefu' d'.;- struction of the game — Hunters' mode of quenching thirst, . . . . -'ti Chapter IV. Change in the face of the country — Unpleasant visitation — N. fork of the Platte — A day's journey over the hills — Poor pasture — Marmots — Rattlesnake and gopher — Naturalist's success and sacrifices — A sand storm — Wild horses— Killing of a doe antelope — Bluffs — The Chimney — " Zip Koon," the young antelope— Birds — Feelings and cogitations of a naturalist — Laramie's fork — Departure of two " free trappers" on a summer " hunt" — Black hills — Red butes — Sweet-water Yiver, and Rock Independence — Avo- cets — Wind river mountains — Rocky Mountain sheep — Adventure with a ' grizzly bear — Rattlesnakes — Toilsome march, and arrival at Sandy river — Suffering of the horses — Anticipated delights of the rendezvous, . . 5" Chapter V. Arrival at the Colorado— The author in difficulty— Loss of a journal, and advice to travelling tyros — The rendezvous — Motley groups in- festing it — Rum drinking, swearing, and other accomplishments in vogue — Description of the camp — Trout — Abundance of game— Cock of the plains — VI C;ONTKNTS. Leave the rendezvoui — An ncrcKnion to the bond— A renegwlii HIiutkfiHil chief— Captain Stewart and Mr. Aihworth — Muddy cri-ek— Mure uarou**' ing — Abundance of trout — Bear river — A hard doy'H march — Vohmiiln v*UU' try— White-clay piti and " Beer ipring" — Rare bird* and cnmniun blrd»— Mr. Thomas McKay — Captain Bonneville'i party — Captain* Mtuwitrt iiliil Wyeth'8 visit to the lodge of the "bald chief" — Blorkfuot river— Advii||liirM with a grizzly Iwar— Death of "Zip Koon" — Young grizzly bearN uiiil bul- falo calves — A Blackfoot Indian — Dangerous experiment of Mi'Kity— ^(h« three " Tetons"— Large trout— Hhoshonu river— Site of" Port H»tt"—Vtf |iarationi for a bufliilo hunt, , , 7J Chapter VL Departure of the hunting camp — A falvo alarm— llla('kft diani — Requisites of a mountain-man — Good fare, and good appittiUw— All experiment — Grizzly beors — Ncz Perce Indian — Adventure with » gri/Kly Iwar — Hunters' anecdotes — Homeward Iwund — Arrivol at " Fori H»ll"— A salute — Emaciation from lowdict — Mr. McKay's company —lluirulu I«nI||«" 'I'liurn* burg's pass" — Difiicult travelling — 'fhe captain in jeopardy umQIlg lllti enow — A countermarch — Deserted Banncck camp — Toilsome and dungiirtlllH passage of the mountain — Mullado river — Beaver dams, and U)avtointment— Visit of a Snake chiuf— liis Rbhtir* fence of horse meat— A band of Snake Indians— their chief—TradK with Indians fur salmon— Mr. Ashworth's adventure — An Indian liorW'(hliif<^ Visit to the Snake camp — A Banneck camp— Supercilious conduL't uf lli«< Indians — Snake river— Equipment of a trapping party— Indian modi* id' catching salmon — Loss of a favorite horse— Powder river — Cut ropkd— » Grand Ronde — Captain Bonneville — Kayouse and Nez Perci'i Indiaim-TAlt Indian beauty— Blue mountains— A feline visit, . \'i9 Chapter IX. Passage of the Blue mountains — SufTerings fVom thirst'^ Utalla river — A transformation — A novel meal — Columbia river and Fort Walla-walla — A dinner with the missionaries — Anecdote of Mr, Le«c, and athletic exercises — Native food — Man- ner of eating — The rumi-rumi — its efficacy — A Lu-au party —The valley of Nuano — A visit to the Pari — Tho last batllo of Tamchameha — A feast — Manner of cooking — A party of native ladies — An adventure, . . 191 CiUPTKH XII. Visit to the island of Kauai — A royat call — Rev, P. J. Gulick, — Description of the island — A present from Kauikeaouli— Royal mode of obtaining supplies — Birds — Native method of catching them— The travellers wind-bound — Shell hunting — Habits of the natives— Beach food, and mode of eating it — Visit of the king, and governor Kekeoeva — Charac- teristics of the latter — Anxiety of tho Ung to return home— Arrival of hia followers — A metamorphosis — A royal supper — Evening service- Royal guard — A sail in sight — Joy of the king— His letter — Return of the Avon — Departure from Kauai, and arrival at Oahu — A pic-nic party at Pearl river — Calabash dance by the natives — Departure for Columbia river — A primitive passage to the shore — A storm at sea— A flight of shore birds — Land ahead — Arrival at the Columbia, 205 Chapter XIII. PassageuptheColumbia— Birds— A trip to the Wallammet — Methodist missionaries — their prospects — Fort William— Band-tail pigeons Wretched condition of the Indians at the falls — A Kallapooyah village In- dian cemetery — Superstitions — Treatment of diseases — Method of steaming — " Making medicine" — Indian sorcerers — Death of Thornburg — An inquest Verdict of the jury — Inordinate appetite for ardent spirits — Eight men drowned— Murder of two trappers by the Banneck Indians— Arrival of Cap- tain Thing — His meeting and skirmish, with the Blackfeet Indians — Mas- sacre — A narrow escape, 218 Chapter XIV. Indians of the ColumbiaT— Departure of Mr. Nuttall and Dr. Gairdner — Arrival of the Rev. Samuel Parker — his object — Departure of the American brig— Swans — Indian mode of taking them — A large wolf — A night adventure — A discovery, and restoration of stolen property — Fraternal tenderness of an Indian — Indian vengeance — Death of Waskema, the Indian giri— "Busy-body," the little chief— A village of Kowalitsk Indians— Cere- mony of" making medicine" — Exposure of an impostor — Success of legiti- mate medicines — Departure from Fort Vancouver for a visit to the interior Arrival of a stranger— "Cape Horn" — Tilki, the Indian chief—Indian vil- tiii CONTKNTa. lawei — Arrival nt Fort Wulln-wallu — Hhur|>-taile(l groune — (>ommcncernent of a journey to tho Ulue muuntuiii*, 331 CiiAPTKR XV. A village of Kayuuiu Iiuliuna — Appearance and dreswi of the woiniM — family worship — Vi»itto the Ulue mountuiiii — l)u«lcy groufc — Re- turn to Walla-walla — Arrival of Mr. .McLeod, and tho miHsionaricii — Letters fr.m homo — Death of .\ntoino Ooildin — A renrgudo white man — Aiwoultby •he Walln-wullu Indiunit — PadHugu down the Culunibia — Rupidii — A dog for ■up|icr — Prairieii on lire — F'iHhing Indianx — Their romantic appearance — Hahnon hutH — ThcBhoot* — Dangerous navigation — Death ofTilki — Heali — Indian Htoicism and contempt of pain — Hkookoom, tho strong chief — his death — Maiming, an evidence of grief — Arrival at Fort Vancouver — A visit to Fort (Seorgo — Indian cemeteries — Lewis and Clarke's house — A medal-- Visit to Chinook — Hospitality of the Indians — Chinamus' home — The idol — Canine inmates, ■ 245 CiupTEH XVI. Northern excursion — Salmon — Indian mode of catching them — Flathead children — A storm on the bay — Pintail ducks — Simple mode of killing salmon — Return to Chinook — Indian garrulity — Return to Fort George — Preparations for a second trip to the Sandwich Islands — De- tention within the cape — The tropics, and tropic birds — Make the island of Maui — Arrival at Oanu — Accession to the society — A visit to the king — Illness of the princess, Harieta Nahicnaena — Abrupt exit of the king — A tide to Waititi — Cocoanut grove — Native mode of climbing — Death of the princess — grief of her people — barbarous ceremonies — Residence in the valley of Nuano — A visit to the palace — Kahiles — Coffin of the princess, and inscrip- tion—Appurtenances—Ceremony of carrying the body to the church — Des- cription of the pageant — Dress'of the king — Conclusion of tho ceremony, 259 Chapter X VII. Embarkation for a tour of tho islands — Lahaina — Forts — La- hainaluna — Missionaries of Maui — High school — Karakakua bay — Kairua — Cook's rock — Reverence of the natives for his memory — Cook's monument — Kawaihae — Colossal mountains — Mrs. Young — Heiau, or native temple — Human sacrifices— Moral — Heathenish rites — A cargo of cattle — Unsavory practice of the native women — Departure from Ouhu — A sail by moonlight — Dean's island — A " complaisant" — Arrival at Tahiti— Native pilot— Papeete bay — Appearance of the shore — Orange groves, &c. — A young native song- ster — Visit to the queen — Native service — The chapel — A bedridden Tahai- tian — Jungle fowls— Leave the harbor — Dangerous navigation-^A narrow escape — A shipwreck 275 CuAPTGR XVIIL Island of Eimeo — Juan Fernandez— Make the coast of Chili — Town of Valparaiso — suburbs — Indisposition — Kindness of the fo- reign residents, &c.— Preparation by the government for an expedition against Peru — Foreign adventurers— Disaflection of Vidaurro and other officers in the Chilian army — Murder of Signor Portules by tho rebels — Pre- paration for invading the town of Valparaiso — A battle — defeat of the insur- gents — Capture and imprisonment of Vidaurre and seven officers — Florine, the murderer— Sentence of the court martial — A military execution— Ap- pearance of the bodies afler death — Sail for the United States — Cape Horn — Pemambuco— Cape Henlopen— A gale — Anival at Philadelphia, . 295 Appimdix, • oil i .# ■ 'S^.^^'^y NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, &c. CHAPTER I. Arrival at St. Louis —Prtparatlons for the journey— SAque Indians— Their appearance, drew, and mannert—Squawi— Commencement of a pedestrian tour— Sandhill cranes— Prairie settlers— Their hospitality— tVild pigeons, golden plovers and prairie hens — Mr. P. and his daughters— ^n abundant repast— Simplicity of the prairie maidens — .i deer atid turkey hunt Loutre lAck hotel^Unieelcome bed-fellows — Jl colored sharon — Comfortable quar- ters— Young men cf the west — Reflections on leaving home— Loquacity ^f the inhabitants— Orat/ squirrels— Soonville—Parroquets — Embarkation in a iteavAoat — Large catfish — Occident on board the boat — Arrival at Indepen- dence — Description qf the town — Procure a supply of horses — Encampment r a journey pantaloons, enormous overcoats, made of green blankets, and white wool hats, with round crowns, fitting tightly to tho head, brims five inches wide, and almost hard enough to resist a rifle ball. The day following we saw about one hundred Indians of the SAqiie tribe, who had Icfl their native forests for the purpose of treating for the sale of some land at the Jefferson barrackH> They were dressed and decorated in the true primitive style | their heads shaved closely, and painted with alternate stripes of fiery red and deep black, leaving only the long scalping tuft, in which was interwoven a quantity of elk hair and eagle's fea- thers. Each man was furnished with a good blanket, and some had an under dress of calico, but the greater number were en» tirely naked to the waist. The faces and bodies of the men were, almost without an exception, fantastically painted, the pre> dominant color being deep red, with occasionally a few stripes of dull clay white oround the eyes and mouth. I observed one whose body was smeared with light colored clay, interspersed with black streaks. They were unarmed, with the exception of tomahawks and knives. The chief of the band, (who is said to be Black Hawk's father-in-law,) was a large dignified looking man, of perhaps fifty-five years of age, distinguished fVom the rest, by his richer habiliments, a more profuse display of trinkets in his ears, (which were cut and gashed in a frightful manner to receive them,) and above all, by a huge necklace made of tho claws of the grizzly bear. The squaws, of whom there were about twenty, were dressed very much like the men, and at a little distance could scarcely be distinguished from them. Among them was an old, superannuated crone, who, soon after her arrival, had been presented with a broken umbrella. The only use thot she made of it was to wrench the plated ends from the whale* bones, string them on a piece of wire, take her knife from her belt, with which she deliberately cut a slit of an inch in length ACROSS THE nOCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 11 along the upper rim of her ear, and insert them in it. I saw her soon after this operation had been performed ; her cheeks were covered with blood, and she was standing with a vast deal of assumed dignity among her tawny sisters, who evidently envied her the possession of the worthless baubles. 28th. — Mr. N. and myself propose starting to-morrow on foot towards the upper settlements, a distance of about three hundred miles. We intend to pursue our journey leisurely, as we have plenty of time before us, and if we become tired, we can enter the stage which will probably overtake us. 29th. — This morning our Indians returned trom the barracks, where I understand they transacted their business satisfactorily. I went on board the boat again to see them. I feel very much interested in them, as they are the first Indians I have ever seen who appear to be in a state of uncultivated nature, and who retain the savage garb and manners of their people. They had en- gaged the entire covered deck for their especial use, and were lolling about in groups, wrapped in their blankets. Some were occupied in conversation, others seemed more contemplative, and appeared to be thinking deeply, probably of the business which brought them amongst us. Here and there two might be seen playing a Spanish game with cards, and some were busily em- ployed in rendering themselves more hideous with paint. To perform this operation, the dry paint is folded in a thin muslin or gauze cloth, tied tightly and beaten against the face, and a small looking-glass is held in the other hand to direct them where to apply it. Two middle-aged squaws were frying beef, which they distributed around to the company in wooden bowls, and several half loaves of bread were circulating rapidly amongst them, by being tossed from one to another, each taking a huge bite of it. There were among the company, several younger fe- males, but they were all so hard favored that I could not feel much sympathy with them, and was thcrofore not anxious to cul- It NAHUATIVE OF A JOCRNET tivate their acquaintance. There was another circumstance, too, ^ that was not a very attractive one ; I allude to the custom so universal amongst Indians, of seeking for vermin in each others' heads, and then eating them. The fair damsels were engaged in this way during most of the time that I remained on board, only suspending their delectable occupation to take their bites of bread as it passed them in rotation. The effect upon my person was what an Irishman would call the attraction of repulsion, as I found myself almost unconsciously edging away until I halted at a most respectable distance from the scene of slaughter. At noon, Mr. N. and myself started on our pedestrian tour, Captain Wyeth offering to accompany us a few miles on the way. I was glad to get clear of St. Louis, as I felt uncomfortable in many resi)ects while there, and the bustle and restraint of a town was any thing but agreeable to me. We proceeded over a road generally good, a low dry prairie, mostly heavily timbered, the soil underlaid with horizontal strata of limestone, abounding in organic remains, shells, coralines, &c., and arrived in the evening at Florisant, where we spent the night. The next day Captain Wyeth left us for St. Louis, and my companion and myself pro- ceeded on our route. We observed great numbers of the brown, or sandhill crane, {Grus canadensis,) flying over us ; some flocks were so high as to be entirely beyond the reach of vision, while their harsh, grating voices were very distinctly heard. We saw several flocks of the same cranes while ascending the Mississippi, several days since. At about noon, we crossed the river on a boat worked by horses, and stopped at a little town called St. Charles. We find it necessary, both for our comfort and convenience, to travel very slowly, as our feet are already becoming tender, and that we may have an opportunity of observing the country, and collecting interesting specimens. Unfortunately for the pursuits of my companion, the plants (of which he finds a I ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 18 number tliat are rare and curious) are not yet in flower, and therefore of little use to him. The birds are in considerable numbers, among the principal of which is the large pileated woodpecker, (Picua pileatus.) Mr. N. and myself are both in high spirits. We travel slowly, and without much fatigue, and when we arrive at a house, stop and rest, take a drink of milk, and chat with those we see. We have been uniformly well treated ; the living is good, and very cheap, and at any house at which we stop the inhabitants are sure to welcome us to their hospitality and good cheer. They live comfortably, and without much labor ; possess a fruitful and easily tilled soil, for which they pay the trifling sum of one dollar and a quarter per acre ; they raise an abundance of good In- dian corn, potatoes, and other vegetables; have excellent beef and pork, and, in short, every thing necessary for good, whole- some living. 3l8t. — The road to-day was muddy and slippery, rendered so by a heavy rain which fell last night. This morning, we observed large flocks of wild pigeons passing over, and on the bare prairies were thousands of golden plovers ; the ground was often literally covered with them for acres. I killed a considerable number. They were very fat, and we made an excellent meal of them in the evening. The prairie hen, or pinnated grouse, is also very numerous, but in these situations is shy, and diflicult to be procured. Towards evening we were overtaken by a blufl^, jolly looking man, on horseback, who, as is usual, stopped, and entered into conversation with us. I saw immediately that he was superior to those we had been accustomed to meet. He did not ply us with questions so eagerly as most, and when he heard that we were naturalists, and were travelling in that capacity, he seemed to take considerable interest in us. He invited us to stop at his house, which was only a mile beyond, and as night was almost 14 NAHHATIVE OP A JOVRNRT upon us, we accepted the invitation with cheerfulness. Upon arriving at his mansion, our good host threw wide his hospitable doors, and then with a formal, and rather ultra-dignified polite- ness, making us a low bow, said, " Gentlemen, my name is P., and I am very happy of your company." We seated ourselves in a large, and well-furnished, parlor. Mr. P. excused himself for a few minutes, and soon returned, bringing in three fine looking girls, whom he introduced as his daughters. I took a particular fancy to one of them, from a strong resemblance which she bore to one of my female friends at home. These girls were certainly very superior to most that I had seen in Missouri, although somewhat touched with the awkward bash- fulness and prudery which generally characterizes the prairie maidens. They had lost their mother when young, and having no companions out of the domestic circle, and consequently no opportunity of aping the manners of the world, were perfect chil- dren of nature. Their father, however, had given them a good, plain education, and they had made some proficiency in needle work, as was evinced by numerous neatly worked samplers hanging in wooden frames around the room. Anon, supper was brought in. It consisted of pork chops, ham, eggs, Indian bread and butter, tea, coffee, milk, potatoes, preserved ginger, and though last, certainly not least in value, an enormous tin dish of plovers, (the contents of my game-bag,) fricaseed. Here was certainly a most abundant repast, and we did ample justice to it. I endeavored to do the agreeable to the fair ones in the eve- ning, and Mr. N. was monopolized by the father, who took a great interest in plants, and was evidently much gratified by the information my companion gave him on the subject. The next morning when we rose, it was raining, and much had evidently fallen during the night, making the reads wet and muddy, and therefore unpleasant for pedestrians. I confess ACKOMM TUB noOKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 15 I was not Borry for this, for I felt myself very comfortably situated, itiid hnd no wish to take to the road. Mr. P. urged the propriety of our stopping at least another day, and the motion being seconded by his fair daughter, (my favorite,) it was irresistible. On the following morning the sun was shining brightly, the air wus fresh nnd clastic, and the roads tolerably dry, so that there was no longer any excuse for tarrying, and we prepared for our departure. Our good host, grasping our hands, said thot ho had Ijcen much pleased with our visit, and hoped to see us again, and when 1 bid good bye to the pretty Miss P., I told her thnt if I ever visited Missouri again, I would go many miles out of my way to sec her and her sisters. Her reply was unsophisticuted enough. " Do come again, and come in May or June, (or then there arc plenty of prairie hens, and you can shoot as many as you want, and you must stay a long while with us, and we'll have nice times ; good bye ; I'm so sorry you're going." April ith.^ rose this morning at daybreak, and left Mr. N. dreaming of woods, in a little house at which we stopped last night, and in company with a long, lanky boy, (a son of the poor widow, our hostess,) set to moulding bullets in an old iron spoon, and preparing for deer hunting. The boy shouldered a rusty rifle, that looked almost antediluvian, and off we plodded to a thicket, two miles from the house. We soon saw about a dozen fine deer, and the boy, clapping his old fire-lock to his shoulder, brought down a beautiful doe at the distance of a full hundred yards. Away sprang the rest of the herd, and I crept round the thicket to meet them. They soon came up, and I fired my piece nt n large buck, and wounded the poor creature in the leg ; ho wont limping away, unable to overtake his com- panions; I felt very sorry, but consoled myself with the reflection that ho would soon get well again. 16 NAnnATivE or a jovrnet It. We then gave up the pursuit, and turned our attention to the turkies, which were rather numerous in the thicket. They were shy, as usual, and, when started from their lurking places, ran away like deer, and hid themselves in the underwood. Occasionally, however, they would perch on the high limbs of the trees, and then we had some shots at them. In the course of an hour we killed four, and returned to the house, where, as I expected, Mr. N. was in a fever at my absence, and after a late, and very good breakfast, proceeded on our journey. We find in this part of the country less timber in the same space than we have yet seen, and when a small belt appears, it is a great relief, as the monotony of a bare prairie becomes tiresome. Towards evening we arrived at Loutre Lick. Here there is a place called a Hotel. A Hotel, forsooth ! a pig-stye would be a more appropriate name. Every thing about it was most exceedingly filthy and disagreeable, but no better lodging was to be had, for it might not be proper to apply for accommodation at a private house in the immediate vicinity of a public one. They gave us a wretched supper, not half so good as we had been accustomed to, and we were fain to spend the evening in a comfortless, unfurnished, nasty bar-room, that smelt intolerably of rum and whiskey, to listen to the profane conversation of three or four uncouth individuals, (among whom were the host and his brother,) and to hear long and disagreeably minute discussions upon horse-racing, gambling, and other vices equally unpleasant to us. The host's brother had been to the Rocky Mountains, and soon learning our destination, gave us much unsought for advice re- garding our method of journeying ; painted in strong colors the many dangers and difficulties which we must encounter, and concluded by advising us to give up the expedition. My fast ebbing patience was completely exhausted. I told him that ACKOS8 THE ROCKV MOUNTAINS, ETC. 17 nothing that he could say would discourage us, — that we went to that house in order to sock repose, and it was unfair to intrude conversation upon us unasked. The ruffian made some grum- bling reply, and left us in quiet and undisturbed possession of our bench. . We had a miserable time that night. The only spare bed in the house was so intolerably . filthy that wc dared not undress, and we had hardly closed our eyes before we were assailed by swarms of a vile insect, (the very name of which is offensive,) whose effluvia we had plainly perceived immediately as we entered the room. It is almost needless to say, that very early on the following morning, after paying our reckoning, and refusing the landlord's polite invitation to "liquorize" we marched from the house, shook the dust from our feet, and went elsewhere to seek a breakfast. Soon after leaving, we came to a deep and wide creek, and strained our lungs for half an hour in vain endeavors to waken a negro boy who lived in a hut on the opposite bank, and who, we were told, would ferry us over. He came out of his den at last, half naked and rubbing his eyes to see who had disturbed his slumbers so early in the marning. We told him to hurry over, or we'd endeavor to assist him, and he came at last, with a miserable leaky little skifT that wet our feet completely. We gave him a pickayune for his trouble, and went on. We soon came to a neat little secluded cottage in the very heart of a thick forest, where we found a fine looking young man, with an interesting wife, and a very pretty child about six months old. Upon being told that we wanted some breakfast, the woman tucked up her sleeve;^ gave the child to her hus- band, and went to work in good earnest. In a very short time a capital meal was smoking on the board, and while we were partaking of the good cheer, we found our vexation rapidly evaporating. We complimented the handsome young hostess. 8 18 NABKATIVB OF A JOUKNEY I ' patted the chubby checks of the child, and were in a good humor with every body. Gth, — Soon after we started this morning, wo were overtaken by a stage wliich was going to Fulton, seven miles distant, and as the roads were somewhat heavy, we concluded to mako U80 of this convenience. The only passengers were three young men from the far west, who had been to the eastward purchasing goods, and were then travelling homeward. Two of them evidently possessed a large share of what is called mother wit, and so we had jokes without number. Some of them were not very refined, and perhaps did not suit the day very well, (it being the Sabbath,) yet none of them were really offensive, but seemed to proceed entirely from an exuberance of animal spirits. ^ In about an hour and a half we arrived at Fulton, a pretty little town, and saw tho villagers in their holiday clothes parading along to church. The bell at that moment sounded, and the peal gave rise to many reflections. It might be long ere I should hear the sound of the " church-going bell" again. I was on my way to a far, far country, and I did not know that I should ever be permitted to re-visit my own. I felt that I was leaving the scenes of my childhood ; the spot which had witnessed all the happiness I ever knew, the home where all my affections were centered. I was entering a land of strangers, and would bo compelled hereafter to mingle with those who might look upon me with indifference, or treat me with neglect. These reflections were soon checked, however. We took a light lunch at the tavern where we stopped. I shouldered my gun, Mr. N. his stick and bundle, and off we trudged again, westward, ho ! We soon lost sight of the prairie entirely, and our way lay through a country thickly covered with heavy timber, tho roads very rough and stony, and we had frequently to ford I ACROSS TIIR HOCKV M0UNTAIN8, ETC 10 the creeks on our route, the late frcsliets having carried nway the bridges. Our accommodation at the farm houses has generally been good and comfortable, and the inhabitants obliging, and anxious to please. They are, however, exceedingly in|uisitivc, pro- pounding question ailer question, in such quick succession as scarcely to allow you breathing time between them. This kind of catechising was at first very annoying to us, but we have now become accustomed to it, and have hit upon an expedient to avoid it in a measure. The first question generally asked, is, " where do you come from, gentlemen 1" We frame our answer somewhat in the ^tyle of Dr. Franklin. " We come from Penn- sylvania; our names, Nuttall and Townscnd ; we are travelling to Independence on foot, for the purpose of seeing the country to advantage, and wc intend to proceed from thence across the mountains to the Pacific. Have you any mules to sell ?" The last clause generally changes the conversation, and saves us trouble. To a stranger, and one not accustomed to the manners of the western people, this kind of interrogating seems to imply a lack of modesty and common decency, but it is cer- tainly not so intended, each one appearing to think himself enti- tled to gain as much intelligence regarding the private affairs of a stranger, as a very free use of his lingual organ can pro- cure for him. ' We found the common gray squirrel very abundant in some places, particularly in the low bottoms along water courses; in some situations we saw them skipping on al- most every tree. On last Christmas day, at a squirrel hunt in this neighborhood, about thirty persons killed the astonish- ing number of twelve hundred, between the rising and setting of the sun. This may seem like useless barbarity, but it is justified by the consideration fliat all the crops of corn in the country nrc fro- 90 7IARRATIVE OF A JOITRNHV quently destroyed by these animals. This extenHivu flxldrniilitt* tion is carried on every year, and yet it is said tliat tliulr llUirtlxirM do not appear to bo much diminished. About mid-day, on the 7th, wo passed through a Nitmll tttwn called Columbia, and stopped in the evening at Uuchoport, H liltio village on the Missouri river. We were anxiouHto find a Mt«iHin> boat bound for Independence, as wo feared wo might lirtgnr too long upon the road to make the necessary proparatiuilH iht oiif contemplated journey. On the following day, we crossed the Missouri, oppoNJtft Uuclio* port, in a small skiff. The road here, for several miloN, witldM along the bank of the river, amid fine groves of uyeumom und Athenian poplars, then stretches off for about throe miluft, and dooM not again approach it until you arrive at Boonvillo, It Im by Air the most hilly road that we have seen, and I wais ffPfiuoiitly to- minded, while travelling on it, of our Chester county. W« Cilttored the town of Boonville early in the afternoon, ond took lodyiligM in a very clean, and respectably kept hotel. I was muah jtlenwed with Boonville. It is the prettiest town I have aeon In MiHMOurl | situated on the bank of the river, on un elevated and boAUtifllt ipol^ and overlooks a large extent of lovely country. The town contains two good hotels, (but no grog shops, properly so (^nlltnl,) several well-furnished stores, and five hundred inhobitantSi It was laid out thirty years ago by the celebrated wemtom (lioneofi whose name it bears. We saw here vast numbers of the beautifltl parrot of thil country, (the Psiltacus carolinensis.) They flew around m in flocks, keeping a constant and loud screaming, as though ihay would chide us for invading their territory ; and tho splendid green and red of their plumage glancing in the sunshine, as thoy wttirled and circled within a few feet of us, had a most magniAcent ap* pearancc. They seem entirely unsuspicious of dangar, ftnd nfter being fired at, only huddle closer together, os if to olitflin protce* ACnOBfl TIIT! ROCKY MOUNTAINS, F.TC. 21 tion from each other, and as their companions arc falling around them, thoy curvo down their nocks, and look at them fluttering upon the ground, as though perfectly at a loss to account for so unusual an occurrence. It is a most inglorious sort of shooting ; down right, cold-blooded murder. On the aflcrnoon of the 0th, a steamboat arrived, on board of which we were surprised and pleased to find Captain Wycth, and our ** plunder." We embarked immediately, and soon after, were puffing along the Missouri, at the rate of seven miles an hour. When we stopped in the afternoon to " wood," wo were gratified by a sight of one of the enormous catfish of this river and the Mississippi, weighing full sixty pounds. It is said, however, that they are sometimes caught of at least double this weight. They are excellent eating, coarser, but quite as good as the common small catfish of our rivers. There is nothing in the scenery of the river banks to interest the traveller particularly. The country is generally level and sandy, re- lieved only by an occasional hill, and some small rocky accli- vities. A shocking accident happened on board during this trip. A fine looking black boy (a slave of one of the deck passengers) was standing on the platform near the fly-wheel. The steam had just been stopped off", ond the wheel was moving slowly by the impetus it had acquired. The poor boy unwittingly thrust his head between the spokes ; a portion of the steam was at that moment let on, and his head and shoulders were torn to frag- ments. We buried him on shore the same day ; the poor wo- man, his mistress, weeping and lamenting over him as for her own child. She told me she had brought him up from an infant ; he had been as an aflectionate son to her, and for years her only support. March 2Qth. — On the morning of the 14th, we arrived at Independence landing, and shortly afterwards, Mr. N. and 99 NAnitATIVR OP A JOURNKY : I ilH I i myself walked to the town, tlirco miles distant. The country hero is very hilly nnd rocky, thickly covered with timber, and no prairie within several miles. The sito of tho town is beautiful, and very well selected, standing on a high point of land, and overlooking the surround* ing country, but the town itself is very inditferent ; the houses, (about fifty,) are very much scattered, composed of logs and clay, and are low and inconvenient. There are six or eight stores here, two taverns, and a few tipling houses. As yfc did not fancy the town, nor the society that we saw there, wo concluded to take up our residence at the house on the landing until the time of starting on our journey. We were very much disop- pointed in not being able to purchase any mules hero, all the saleable ones having been bought by the Santa Fee traders, several weeks since. Horses, also, are rather scarce, and aro sold at higher prices than wo had been taught to expect, the demand for them at this time being greater than usual. Mr. N. and myself have, however, been so fortunate as to find five excellent animals amongst the hundreds of wretched ones offered for sale, and have also engaged a man to attend to packing our loads, and perform the various duties of our camp. The men of the party, to the number of about fifty, are en- camped on the bank of the river, and their tents whiten the plain for the distance of half a mile. I have often enjoyed the view on a fine moonlight evening from tlic door of the house, or perched upon a high hill immediately over the spot. The beau- tiful white tents, with a light gleaming from each, the smoulder- ing fires around them, the incessant hum of the men, and occasionally the lively notes of a bacchanalian song, softened and rendered sweeter by distance. I probably contemplate these and similar scenes with the more interest, as they exhibit the manner in which the next five months of my life are to be spent. ■^l' AOROM THE BOCKV W'MNTAlNs, Wft' 23 Wo have amongst our men a grcnt viui' fy of diHjwHitioiw Some who hnvo not been accustoiuctJ lo tho kind of lifti fhcy arc to load in future, look forwurd to it with ciiger delight, and talk of stirring incidents and hair-hrcadth 'scapes. Others who aro more experienced seem to Ikj as easy and unconcerned about it as a citizen would bo in contemplating a drive of a few miles into tho country. Some havo evidently been reared in tho shade, and not accustomed to liardships, but the majority aro strong, able-bodied men, and many are almost as rough as the grizzly bears, of their feats upon which thoy are fond of boasting. During tho day tho captain keeps all his men employed in arranging and packing a vast variety of goods for carriage. In addition to tho necesssary clothing for tho company, arms, am- munition, &c., there are thousands of trinkets of various kinds, beads, paint, bells, rings, and such trumpery, intended as pre- sents for the Indians, as well as objects of trade with them. Tho bales are usually made to weigh about eighty pounds, of which a horso carries two. I am very much pleased with the manner in which Captain W. manages his men. Ho appears admirably calculated to gain the good will, and ensure the obedience of such a company, and adopts the only possible mode of accomplishing his end. They are men who have been accustomed to act independently ; they possess a strong and indomitable spirit which will never succumb to authority, and will only bo conciliated by kindness and fami- liarity. I confess I admire this spirit. It is noble ; it is free and characteristic, but for myself, I have not been accustomed to seeing it exercised, and when a rough fellow comes up without warning, and slaps me on the shoulder, with, " stranger what for a gun is that you carry ?" I start, and am on the point of making an angry reply, but I remember where I am, check the feeling instantly, and submit the weapon to his inspection. Captain W. mi m ym i'! I 24 NARRATIVK OP A JOURNEV ? ! : may frequently bo seen sitting on the ground, surrounded by a knot of liis independents, consulting them as to his present or* rangemcnts and future movements, and paying the utmost dofor* once to the opinion of the least among them. We were joined here by Mr. Milton Sublette, a trader and trapper of some ten or twelve years' standing. It is his intention to travel with us to the mountains, and we are very glad of his com- pany, both on account of his intimate acquaintance with tho country, and the accession to our band of about twenty trained hunters, " true as the steel of their tried blades," who have moro than once followed their brave and sagacious leader over the very track which we intend to pursue. He appears to be a man of strong sense and courteous manners, and his men arc enthu* siastically attached to him. Five missionaries, who intend to travel under our escort, have also just arrived. The principal of these is a Mr. Jason Loo, (a tall and powerful man, who looks as though he were well col* culatcd to buffet difficulties in a wild country,) his nephew, Mfi Daniel Lee, and three younger men of respectable standing in society, who have arrayed themselves under the missionary banner, chiefly for the gratification of seeing a new country, ond participating in strange adventures. My favorites, the birds, are very numerous in this vicinity, and I am therefore in my element. Parroquets are plentiftjl in the bottom lands, the two species of squirrel are abundant, and rabbits, turkies, and deer arc often killed by our people. I was truly rejoiced to receive yesterday a letter from my family. I went to the office immediately on my arrival here, cc n* fidently expecting to find one lying there for me ; I was told th tj was none, and I could not believe it, or would not ; I took all the letters in my hand, and examined each of them myself, and I suppose that during the process my expressions of disappoint* mcnt were " loud and deep," as I observed the eyes of a nuiill^r i ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 35 of persons in the store directed towards me with manifest curiosity and surprise. The obtuse creatures could not appreciate my feelings. I was most anxious to receive intelligence from home, as some of the members of the family were indisposed when I left, and in a few days more I should be traversing the uncultivated prairie and the dark forest, and perhaps never hear from my home again. The letter came at last, however, and was an inexpressible consolation to me. The little town of Independence has within a few weeks been the scene of a brawl, which at one time threatened to be attended with serious consequences, but which was happily settled without bloodshed. It had been for a considerable time the stronghold of a sect of fanatics, called Mormons, or Mormonites, who, as their numbers increased, and they obtained power, showed an inclination to lord it over the less assuming inhabitants of the town. This was a source of irritation which they determined to i id them- selves of in a summary manner, and accordingly the whole town rose, en masse, and the poor followers of the prophet were forcibly ejected from the community. They took refuge in the little town of Liberty, on the opposite side of the river, and the villagers here are now in a constant state of feverish alarm. Reports have been circulated that the Mormons are preparing to attack the town, and put the inhabitants to the sword, and they have therefore stationed sentries along the river for several miles, to prevent the landing of the enemy. The troops parade and study military tactics every day, and seem determined to repel, with spirit, the threatened invasion. The probability is, that the re- port respecting the attack, is, as John Bull says, " all humbug," and this training and marching has already been a source of no little annoyance to us, as the miserable little skeleton of a saddler who is engaged to work for our party, has neglected his busi- ness, and must go a soldiering in stead. A day or two ago, I tried to convince the little man that he was of no use to the army, 4 S6 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNKY for if a Mormou were to say pooh at him, it would blow him away beyond the reach of- danger or of glory ; but he thought not, and no doubt concluded that he was a " marvellous pro- per man," so we were put to great inconvenience waiting for our saddles. ACllOSa THE ROCKV MOUNVAINS, ETC. 97 CHAPTER II. Departure of the caravan — .4 storm on the prairie — Arrantement of tlie camp — The cook's desertion—Kunzas Indians — Kanzas riva— Indian lodges- Passage of the river — Buffalo canoes— Kanzas chief — Costume of the In- dians — Upper Kaw village— t/ieir wigwams — Catfish and ravens — Return of Mr. Sublette — Pawnee trace — Desertion of three men — Difficulties occa- sioned by losing tlie trail— Intelligence of Mr, Sublette's party— Escape of the band of horses — Visit of three Otto Indians —Anecdote of Richardson, the chitf hunter — his appearance and character — fflUte wolves and antelopes- Buffalo bones — Stiblette'a deserted camp— Lurking wolves. On the 28th of April, at 10 o'clock in the morning, our caravan, consisting of seventy men, and two hundred and fifty horses, began its march ; Captain Wyeth and Milton Sublette took the lead, Mr. N. and myself rode beside them ; then the men in double file, each leading, with a line, two horses heavily laden, and Captain Thing (Captain W.'s assistant) brought up the rear. The band of missionaries, with their horned cattle, rode along the flanks. I frequently sallied out from my station to look at and admire the appearance of the cavalcade, and as we rode out from the encampment, our horses prancing, and neighing, and pawing the ground, it was altogether so exciting that I could scarcely contain myself. Every man in the company seemed to feel a portion of the same kind of enthusiasm; uproarious bursts of merriment, and gay and lively songs, were constantly echoing along the line. Wc were certainly a most merry and happy company. What cared we for the future ? We had reason to expect that crc long difficulties and dangers, in various shapes, 28 NARRATIVE OP A JOURNEY illliiii 11 would assail us, but no anticipation of reverses could check the happy exuberance of our spirits. Oui- road lay over a vast rolling prairie, with occasional small spots of timber at the distance of several miles apart, and this will no doubt be the complexion of the track for some weeks. In the afternoon we crossed the Big Blue river at a shallow ford. Here we saw a number of beautiful yellow-headed troopials, {Icterus zanthrocephalus,) feeding upon the prairie in company with large flocks of black birds, and like these, they often alight upon the backs of our horses. 29th. — A heavy rain fell all the morning, which had the eftect of calming our transports in a great measure, and in the afternoon it was succeeded by a tremendous hail storm. During the rain, our party left the road, and proceeded about a hundred yards from it to a range of bushes, near a stream of water, for the purpose of encamping. We had just arrived hero, and had not yet dismounted, when the hail storm com- menced. It came on very suddenly, and the stones, as large aa musket balls, dashing upon our horses, created such a panic among them, that they plunged, and kicked, and many of them threw their loads, and fled wildly over the plain. They were all overtaken, however, and as the storm was not of long duration, they were soon appeased, and staked for the night. To stake or fasten a horse for the night, he is provided with a strong leathern halter, with an iron ring attached to the chin strap. To this ring, a rope of hemp or plaited leather, twenty- two feet in length, is attached, and the opposite end of the line made fast with several clove hitches around an oak or hickory pin, two and a half feet long. The top of this pin or stake is ringed with iron to prevent its being bruised, and it is then driven to the head in the ground. For greater security, hopples made of stout leather are buckled around the fore legs ; and then. ' U'liii Armo8i Ttti! nocKY mountains, etc. 89 if the tackling ix good, it is almost impossible for a horse to escape. Cars id nlwttyo talton to stake him in a spot where he may cat grnnit nil night. The animals are placed sufficiently for opart to prevent them interfering with each other. Camping out to-night is not so agreeable as it might be, in consequence of the ground Ixjing very wet and muddy, and our blankets (our only bedding) thoroughly soaked ; but we expect to encounter greater diflicultics than these ere long, and we do not murmur. A description of tho formation of our camp may, perhaps, not bo amiKH here. Tho party is divided into messes of eighj men, and each mcH» is allowed a separate tent. The captain of a mess, (who in generally an " old hand," i. e. an experienced forester, hiuUer, or trapper,) receives each morning the rations of pork, flour, &c. for his people, and they choose one of their body as cook for the whole. Our camp now consists of nine messes, of which ('aptttin W.'in forms one, although it only contains four persons bctiden the cook. When wo arrivo in tho evening at a suitable spot for an en- campment, Cuptnin W. rides round a space which he considers largo enough t<> accommodate it, and directs where each mess shall pitch its tent. Tho men immediately unload their horses, and place their bales of goods in the direction indicated, and in such monner, as in case of need, to form a sort of fortification and defence. When all the messes are arranged in this way, tho comp forms a hollow square, in the centre of which the horses ore placed and staked firmly to tho ground. The guard consists of from six tf» eight men, and is relieved three times each night, and 80 arranged that eoch gang may serve alternate nights. Tho captain of n guard (who is generally also the captain of a mess) collects his people nt the appointed hour, and posts them around outside the camp in such situations that they may com- 80 NARRATIVE OP A JOURNEY il lil! Ill mand a view of the environs, and be ready to give the alarm in case of danger. The captain cries the hour regularly by a watch, and alVa well, every fifteen minutes, and each man of the guard is re- quired to repeat this call in rotation, which if any one should fail to do, it is fair to conclude that he is asleep, and he is then immediately visited and stirred up. In case of defection of this kind, our laws adjudge to the delinquent the hard sentence of walking three days. As yet none of our poor fellows have incurred this penalty, and the probability is, that it would not at this time be enforced, as we arc yet in a country where little molestation is to be apprehended ; but in the course of another week's travel, when thieving and ill-designing Indians will bo outlying on our trail, it will be necessary that the strictest watch be kept, and, for the preservation of our persons and pro- perty, that our laws shall be rigidly enforced. May 1st. — On rising this morning, and inquiring about our prospects of a breakfast, we discovered that the cook of our mess (a little, low-browed, ill-conditioned Yankee) had decamped in the night, and left our service to seek for a better. He probably thought the duties too hard for him, but as he was a miserable cook, we should not have much regretted his departure, had he not thought proper to take with him an excellent rifle, powder-horn, shot-pouch, and other matters that did not belong to him. It is only surprising that he did not select one of our best horses to carry him ; but as he had the grace to take his departure on foot, and wo have enough men without him, we can wish him God speed, and a fair run to the settlements. We encamped this evening on a small branch of the Kanzas river. As we approached our stopping place, we 'vojo joined by a band of Kunzas Indians, (commonly called Kaw Indians.) They arc encamped in a neighboring copse, where they have i ACBOSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 91 six lodges. This party is a small division of a portion of this tribe, who aro constantly wandering; but although their journeys are sometimes pretty extensive, they seldom approach nearer to the settlements than they aro at present. They are very friendly, are not so tawdrily decorated as those we saw below, and use little or no paint. This may, however, bo accounted for by their not having the customary ornaments, &c., as their ears aro filled with trinkets of various kinds, and are horribly gashed in the usual manner. The dress of most that we have seen, has consisted of ordinary woollen pantaloons received from the whites, and their only covering, from the waist up, is a blanket or buffalo robe. The head is shaved somewhat in the manner of the S&ques and Foxes, leaving the well known scalping tufl ; but unlike the Indians just mentioned, the hair is allowed to grow upon the middle of the head, and extends bockwards in a longi- tudinal ridge to the occiput. It is here gathered into a kind of queue, plaited, and suffered to hang down the back. There were amongst them several squaws, with young children tied to their backs, and a number of larger urchins ran about our camp wholly naked. The whole of the following day we remained in camp, trading buffalo robes, apishemeaus, &c., of the Indians. These people became at length somewhat troublesome to us who were not traders, by a very free exercise of 'cir bogging propensities. They appear to be exceedingly poor and needy, and take the liberty of asking unhesitatingly, and without apparent fear of refusal, for any articles that happen to take their fancy. I have observed, that among the Indians nov/ with us, none but the chief uses the pipe. He smokes the article called kanikanik, — a mixture of tobacco and the dried leaves of the poke plant, {Phytolacca dccandra.) I was amused last evening by the old chief asking mc in his impressive manner, (first by pointing with his finger towards the sunset, and then raising his 32 NARRATIVE OK A JOVRMIV m' I i hands high over his head,) if I was going to the mountains. On answering him in the affirmative, ho depressed his hands, and passed them around his head in both directions, then turned quiciily away from me, with a very solemn and significant ugh/ He meant, doubtless, that my brain was turned ; in i)lain lan- guage, that I was a fool. This may bo attributed to his horror of the Blackfcet Indians, with whom a portion of his tribe was formerly at war. The poor Kaws are said to have suffered dreadfully in these savage conflicts, and were finally forced to abandon the country to their hereditary foes. We were on the move early the next morning, and at noon arrived at the Kanzas river, a branch of the Missouri. This is a broad and not very deep stream, with the water dark and turbid, like that of the former. As we approached it, we saw a number of Indian lodges, made of saplings driven into the ground, bent over and tied at top, and covered with bark and buflTalo skins. These lodges, or wigwams, are numerous on both sides of the river. As we passed them, the inhabitants, men, women, and children, flocked out to seo us, and almost prevented our pro- gress by their eager greetings. Our party stopped on the bank of the river, and the horses were unloaded and driven into the water. They swam beautifully, and with great regularity, and arrived safely on the opposite shore, where they were confined in a large lot, enclosed with a fence. After some difficulty, and considerable detention, we succeeded in procuring a large flat bottomed boat, embarked ourselves and goods in it, and landed on the opposite side near our horse pen, where we encamped. The lodges are numerous here, and there are also some good frame houses inhabited by a few white men and women, who subsist chiefly by raising cattle, which they drive to the settle- ments below. They, as well as the Indians, raise an abundance of good corn ; potatoes and other vegetables are also plentiful, and they can therefore live sufficiently well. ACHOSS THE HOCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 88 The canoos used by the Indians are mostly made of buflalo skins, stretched, while recent, over a light frame work of wood, the scams sewed with sinews, and so closely, as to be wholly impervious to water. These light vessels are remarkably buoyant, and capable of sustaining very heavy burthens. In the evening the principal Kanzas chief paid us a visit in our tent. He is a young man about twenty-five years of age, straight as a poplar, and with a noble countenance and bearing, but he appeared to me to be marvellously deficient in most of the requisites which go to make the character of a real Indian chief, at least of such Indian chiefs as we read of in our popular books. I begin to suspect, in truth, that these lolly and dignified attributes arc more apt to exist in the fertile brain of the novelist, than in reality. Bo this as it may, ovr chief is a very lively, laughing, and rather playful personage ; perhaps he may put on his dignity, like a glove, when it suits his convenience. Wo remained in camp the whole of next day, and traded with the Indians for a considerable number of robes, apishemeaus, and halter ropes of hide. Our fat bacon and tobacco were in great demand for these useful commodities. The Kaws living here appear to bo much more wealthy than those who joined our camp on the prairie below. They are in better condition, more richly dressed, cleaner, and more com- fortable than their wandering brothers. The men have gene- rally fine countenances, but all the women that I have seen are homely. I cannot admire them. Their dress consists, univer- sally of deer skin leggings, belted around the loins, and over the upper part of the body a buffalo jobc or blanket. On the 20th in the morning, we packed our horses and rode out of the Kaw settlement, leaving the river immediately, and making a N. W. by W. course — and the next day came to an- other village of the same tribe, consisting of about thirty lodges, and situated in the midst of a beautiful level prairie. 5 i I , I mm 34 NARRATIVR OP A JOUHNKV Tho Indians stopped our cnrnvan alniuMt by fomu '•'•eir matin carollings, nnd ail ntiluro looks fresh and l)(;nutiful. The horses of the camp are lying comfortably on their sides, and seem, by tho glances which they give mo in passing, to know that their hour of toil is approaching, and tho patient kino are ruminating in hnppy unconsciousness. nth. — VVc encountered some rather serious dilRcuItics to-doy in fording several wide and deep creeks, having muddy and miry bottoms. Many of our horses, (and particularly those that wore packed,) fell into tho water, and it was witii tho greatest difllculty ond labor that they were extricated. Some of tho scenes presented were rather ludicrous to those who were not actors in them. The floundering, kicking, and falling of horses in tho heavy slough, man and beast rolling over together, and aquattering amongst tho black mud, and the wo-bcgone looks of horse, rider, and horse-furniture, often excited a smile, even while wo pitied their begrimed and miserable plight. All these troubles arc owing to our having lost tho trail yesterday, nnd wo have been travelling to-day as neorly in the proper course as our compass indicated, and hope soon to fmd it. 12th. — Our scouts camo in this morning with the intelligence that they had found a large trail of white men, bearing N. W. We have no doubt that this is Wm. Sublette's party, and that it passed us last evening. They must have travelled very rapidly to overtake us so soon, and no doubt had men ahead watching our motions. It seems rather unfriendly, perhaps, to run by us in this furtive way, without even stopping to say good morning, but Sublette is attached to a rival company, and all stratagems are deemed allowable when interest is concerned. It is a matter of some moment to be the first at the mountain ren- iii! ACItONS TUB no(;KY MnirNTAINt, KTC. (IczvoiiH, in ortkr to obtain the furs brought every summer by tlio trnppors. Lost night, while I wns scrvinj? on guard, I observed nn unusual commotion nmonj? our band of horses, a wild neighinj;, snortinjj, nnd pltinciinj;, for which I wns luinbic to occoimt. I directed several of my men to go in and appease them, and endeavor to ascertain the cause. They had scarcely started, however, when about half of the band broke their fastenings, snapped the hopples on their legs, and went dashing right through tho midst of tlio camp. Down went several of the tento, the rampart of goods was cleared in gallant style, and away went the frightened animals at full speed over the plain. Tho whole camp was instantly aroused. The horses that remained, were bridled as quickly as possible ; we mounted tliem without saddles, and set olF in hard pursuit aflcr tho fugitives. Tho night was pitch dark, but wo needed no light to point out tho way, as tho clattering of hoofs ahead on the hard ground of tho prairie, sounded like thunder. After riding half an hour, wo overtook about forty of them, and surrounding them with difficulty, succeeded in driving them back, and securing them as before. Twenty men were then immediately despatched to scour tho country, and bring in the remainder. This party was headed by Mr. Lee, our missionary, (who, with liis usual promptitude, volunteered his services,) and they returned early this morning, bringing nearly sixty more. We find, however, upon counting the horses in our possession, that there arc yet three missing. While wo were at brcakfast,tl)rce Indians of the Otto tribe, camo to our camp to sec, and smoke with us. These were men of rather short stature, but strong and firmly built. Their coun- tenances resemble in general expression those of the Kanzas, and their dresses are very similar. We arc all of opinion, that it is to these Indians we owe our diilkn Ities of last night, and we have no doubt that the three missing horses are now in their 88 NAHRATIVE OF A JOURNEY possession, but as we cannot prove it upon them, and cannot even converse with them, (having no interpreters,) wo uro com* polled to submit to our loss in silence. Perhaps we should oven be thankful that wc have not lost more. » While these people were smoking the pipe of peace with us, after breakfast, I observed tliat Richardson, our chief hunter, (iin experienced man in this country, of a tall and iron frame, and almost child-like simplicity of character, in fact an exact com), terpart of ^awAr-ej/e in his younger days,) stood aloof, and K* fused to sit in the circle, in which it was always the custom of the old hands to join. Feeling some curiosity to ascertain the cause of this unusual diffidence, I occasionally allowed my eyes to wander to the spot where our sturdy hunter stood looking moodily upon us, as tho calamet passed from hand to hand around the circle, and I thought I perceived him now and then cast a furtive glance at one of the Indians who sat opposite to me, and sometimes his countenance would assume an expression almost demoniacal, n» though the most fierce and deadly passions were raging in his bosom. I felt certain that hereby hung a talc, and I watched for a corresponding expression, or at least a look of consciousness, in the face of my opposite neighbor, but expression there wos none. His large features were settled in a tranquillity which nO' thing could disturb, and as he puffed the smoke in huge volumM from his mouth, and the fragrant vapor wreathed and curled around his head, he seemed the embodied spirit of meekness and taciturnity. The camp moved soon after, and I lost no time in overhaul' ing Richardson, and asking an explanation of his singular con* duct. " Why," said he, " that fryen that sat opposite to you, is my bitterest enemy. I was once going down alone from the rendoK> vous with letters for St. Louis, and when I arrived on tho lower ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 80 part of the Platte river, (just a short distance beyond us here,) I fell in with about a dozen Ottos. They were known to be a friendly tribe, and I therefore felt no feme tolerable pasture, and we frequently stopped during the day to bait our poor animals in these pleasant places. We observed here, several species of small marmots, (^Arcto- mys,) which burrowed in the sand, and were constantly skipping about the ground in front of our party. The short rattlesnake of the prairies was also abundant, and no doubt derived its chief subsistence from foraging among its playful little neighbors. Shortly before we halted this evening, being a considerable dis- tance in advance of the caravan, I observed a dead gopher, (Z)t- plostoma,) — a small animal about the size of a rat, with largo ex- ternal cheek pouches, — lying upon the ground ; and near it a full grown rattlesnake, also dead. The gopher was yet warm and pliant, and had evidently been killed but a few minutes pre- viously ; the snake also gave evidence of very recent death, by a muscular twitching of the tail, which occurs in most serpents, soon after life is extinct. It was a matter of interest to me to ascer- tain the mode by which these animals were deprived of life. I therefore dismounted from my horse, and examined them care- fully, but could perceive nothing to furnish even a clue. Neither of them had any external or perceptible wound. The snake had doubtless killed the quadruped, but what had killed the snake? Their being no wound upon its body was sufficient proof that the gopher had not used his teeth, and in no other way could he cause death. I was unable to solve the problem to my satisfaction, so I pocketed the animal to prepare its skin, and rode on to the camp. The birds thus far have been very abundant. There is a con- eo NARRATIVE OF A JOURNBY Hidorable variety, and many of tlu havo not before been seen by naturalists. As to the plants, there seems to bo no end to them, and Mr. N. is finding dozens of new species daily. In the other branches of science, our success has not been so great, partly on account of the rapidity and steadiness with which wo travel, but chiefly from the difliculty, and almost impossibility, of carrying the subjects. Already we have cast away all our use- less and superfluous clothing, and have been content to mortify our natural pride, to make room for our specimens. Such things as spare waistcoats, shaving boxes, soap, and stockings, have been ejected from our trunks, and we are content to dress, as we live, in a style of primitive simplicity. In fact the whole appearance of our party is sufficiently primitive ; many of the men are dressed en- tirely in deer skins, without a single article of civilized manufac- ture about them ; the old t; -ipers and hunters wear their hair flowing on their shoulders, u their large grizzled beards would scarcely disgrace a Bedouin of the desert. The next morning the whole camp was suddenly aroused by the falling of all the tents. A tremendous blast swept as from a fun- nel over the sandy plain, and in an instant precipitated our frail habitations like webs of gossamer. The men crawled out from under the ruins, rubbing their eyes, and, as usual, muttering im- precations against the country and all that therein was ; it was unusually early for a start, but we did not choose to pitch the tents again, and to sleep without them here was next to impossi- ble;, so we took our breakfast in the open air, devouring our well sanded provision as quickly as possible, and immediately took to the road. During the whole day a most terrific gale was blowing directly in our faces, clouds of sand were driving and hurtling by us, often with such violence as nearly to stop our progress ; and when we halted in the evening, we could scarcely recognise each other's faces beneath their odious mask of dust and dirt. ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 61 There have been no bufTalo upon the plain to day, all the game that we have seen, being a few elk and antelopes ; but these of course we did not attempt to kill, as our whole and undivided attention was required to assist our progress. 28th. — We fell in with a new species of game to day; — a large band of wild horses. They were very shy, scarcely per- mitting us to approach within rifle distance, and yet they kept within sight of us for some hours. Several of ua gave them chase, in the hope of at least being i»ble to approach sufficiently near to examine them closely, but we might as well have pur- sued the wind ; they scoured away from us with astonishing velocity, their long manes and tails standing out almost horizon- tally, as they sprang along before us. Occasionally they would pause in their career, turn and look at us as we approached them, and then, with a neigh that rang loud and high above the clatter- ing of the hoofs, dart their light heels into the air, and fly from us as before. We soon abandoned this wild chase, and contented ourselves with admiring their sleek beauty at a distance. In the afternoon, I committed an act of cruelty and wanton- ness, which distressed and troubled me beyond measure, and which I have ever since recollected with sorrow and compunc- tion. A beautiful doe antelope came running and bleating after us, as though she wished to overtake the party ; she continued following us for nearly an hour, at times approaching within thirty or forty yards, and standing to gaze at us as we moved slowly on our way. I several times raised my gun to fire at her, but my better nature as often gained the ascendency, and I at last rode into the midst of the party to escape the temptation. Still the doe followed us, and I finally fell into the rear, but without intending it, and again looked at her as she trotted behind us. At that moment, my evil genius and love of sport triumphed ; I slid down from my horse, aimed at the poor ante- lope, and shot a ball through her side. Under other circum- 09 NAnnVTIVB OP A JOUHM'iV stances, there would liavo been no ciielty in tliis} but htifP, where better meat was so abundant, and tho cmu\> W(n mm plentifully supplied, it was unfeeling, h(MxrtloHs niurdi)r> It WftM under the influence of this too late impression, that 1 itpprnnislidd my poor victim. She was writhing in agony upon tliu nrtmu\, and exerting herself in vain efforts to draw her mun^lnil Itody farther from her destroyer ; and as I stood over lier, iind nnw htir cast her lorgc, soft, black eyes upon mo with an ircm\\\\'utmtw measures which he so strongly recomun nds in upprouehin^ (i trout stream, he would not need to practise, as the (isli h tiof i ACnOSS TIIK nOCKY MOITNTAINa, KTC. tT shy, and bites quickly und eagerly at a grasshopper or min- iiow. Biifllilo, antelopes, and elk arc nbiindnnt in the 'iclnity, nnd we arc tlicrofore living well. Wo have seen also another kind of game, a beautiful bird, the size of a half grown turkey, calli-d the cock of the plains, ( Tetrao vrophaaiamia.) We first met with this noble bird on the plains, about two days' journey oast of ( Jrecn river, in flocks, or packs, of fifteen or twenty, nnd so ex- ceedingly tame as to allow an approach to within a few feet, run- ning before our horses like domestic fowls, and not unfrequently hojjping under their bullies, while the men amused themselves by striking out their feathers with their riding whips. When wo first saw them, the temptation to shoot was irresistible ; the guns were cracking all around us, nnd the poor grouse falling in every direction ; but what was our disappointment, when, upon roastin" them nicely before the fire, wo found them so strong and bitter as not to be eatable. From this time the cock of the plains was allowed to roam free and unmolested, and as ho has failed to please our palates, we arc content to admire tho beauty of his plumage, and the grace and spirit of his atti- tudes. July 2d. — We bade adieu to the rendezvous this morning; packed up our moveables, and journicd along the bank of the river. Our horses are very much recruited by the long reyt and good pasture which they have enjoyed, and, like their mas- ters, are in ovcollent spirits. During our stay at the rendezvous, many of us looked anx- iously for letters from our families, which we expected by the later caravans, but we were all disappointed. For myself, I have received but one since I loft my home, but this has been my so- lace through many along and dreary journey. Many a time, while pacing my solitary round as night-guard in the wilderness, have I 78 NARRATIVE OP A JOirRNEV sat myself down, nnti stirring up the dying embers of the cnmp fire, talten the precious little memento from my bosom, undrawn the string of the leathern sack which contained it, ond poured over the dear characters, till my eyes would swim with sweet, but sad recollections, then kissing the inanimate paper, return it to its sanctuary, tighten up my pistol belt, shoulder my gun, and with a quivering voice, swelling the " aWa welV upon the night breeze, resume my slow and noiseless trump around my sleeping companions. Many of our men have left us, and joined the returning compa- nies, but we .have had an accession to our porty of about thirty Indians ; Flat-heads, Nez Percys, &c., with their wives, children, and dogs. Without these our camp would be small ; they will probably travel with us until wo arrive on Snake river, and pass over the country where the most danger is to bo apprehended from their enemies, the Black-feet. Some of the women in this party, particularly those of the Ncz Force nation, arc rather handsome, and their persons are decked off in truly savage taste. Their dresses of deer skin are profusely ornamented with beads and porcupine quills ; huge strings of beads are hung around their necks, and their saddles arc garnished with dozens of little hawk's bells, which jingle and make music for them as they travel along. Several of these women have little children tied to their backs, sewed up papoose fashion, only the head being seen; as they jolt along the road, we not un- frequently hear their voices ringing loud and shrill above the music of the bells. Other little fellows who have ceased to re- quire the maternal contributions, are tied securely on other horses, and all their care seems to be to sleep, which they do most perti- naciously in spite of jolting, noise, and clamor. There is among this party, a Blackfoot chief, a renegado from his tribe, who sometime since killed the principal chiof of his nation, and was ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 70 was in conscquonco under the necessity of nbsconiling. lie lins now joinoil the party of his hereditary foes, ond is prepared to fi^ht against his own people and Icindrcd. Ho is a fine, warlike looking fellow, and although he takes part in all the war-songs, and slmm-bnttles of his adopted brothers, and whoops, and howls as loud as tlio best of them, yet it is plain to perceive that he is distrusted and disliked. All men, whether, civilized or savage, honorable, or otherwise, detest and scorn a traitor ! Wo were joined at tho rendezvous by a Captain Stewart, an English gentleman of noble family, who is travelling for amuse- mcnt, and in search of adventure. lie has already been a year in the mountains, and is now desirous of visiting the lower coun- try, from which he may probably tako passage to England by sea. Another Englishman, a young man, named Ashworlh, also attached himself to our party, for tho same purpose. Our course lay along the bank of Ham's fork, through a hilly and stony, but not a rocky country ; the willow flourished on the margin of tho stream, and occasionally the eye was re- lieved, on scanning the plain, by a pretty clump of cottonwood or poplar trees. The cock of the plains is very abundant here, and our pretty little summer yellow bird, (Sylvia cestiva,) one of our most common birds at home, is our constant companion. How natural sounds his little monotonous stave, and how it seems to carry us back to the dear scenes for which we have exchanged the wild and pathless wilderness ! ith. — We left Ham's fork this morning, — now diminished to a little purling brook, — and passed across the hills in a north-west- erly direction for about twenty miles, when we struck Muddy creek. This is a branch of Bear river, which empties into the Salt lake, or " lake Bonneville," as it has been lately named, for what reason I know not. Our camp here, is a beautiful and most de- lightful one. A large plain, like a meadow, of rich, waving 80 NABRATIVE OF A JOURNEY grass, with a lovely little stream running through the midst, liigh hills, capped with shapely cedars on two sides, and on the olhuN an immense plain, with snow clad mountains in the distoneo, This being a memorable day, the liquor kegs were opened, mid the men allowed an abundance. We, therefore, soon luul u renewal of the coarse and brutal scenes of the rendc/vouw. Some of the bacchoials called for a volley in honor of thu day, and in obedience to the order, some twenty or thirty " Imppy" ones reeled into line, with their muzzles directed to every paiHt of the compass, and when the word " fire" was given, wo who were not " happy" had to lie flat upon the ground to avoid tho bullets which were careering through the camp. In this little stream, the trout are more abundant than wc bftve yet seen tli^m. One of our sober men took, this afternoon, upwards of thirty pounds. These fish would probably averugw fifteen or sixteen inches in length, and weigh thrce-(|uarters of ft pound ; occasionally, however, a much larger one is seen. nth. — Wc travelled about twenty miles this day, over a country abounding in lofty hills, and early in the afternoon arrived «n Bear river, and encamped. This is a fine stream of about utm hundred and fifty feet in width, with a moveable, sandy bottom. The grass is dry and poor, the willow abounds along the biinkN, and at a distance marks the course of the stream, which meanders through an alluvial plain of four to six miles in width. At the distance of about one hundred miles from this point, tho Bear river enters the Salt lake, a large body of salt water, with* out outlet, in which there is so large an island as to afford strconw of fresh water for goats and other animals living upon it, On the next day we crossed the river, which we immodiatoly left, to avoid a great bend, and passed over some lofty ranjjiw of hills and through the rugged and stony valleys between them ; the wind was blowing a gale right ahead, and clouds of dust wcro flying in our faces, so that at the end of the day, our couil» ACROSS THE HOCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 81 tcnanccs were disguised as they were on the plains of the Platte. Tlie march to-day has been a most laborious and fatiguing one both for man and beast ; we have travelled steadily from morning till night, not stopping at noon; our poor horses' feet are becoming very much worn and sore, and when at length we struck Bear river again and encamped, the wearied animals re- fused to eat, stretching themselves upon the ground and falling asleep from very exhaustion. Trout, grayling, and a kind of char are very abundant here — the first very large. The next day we travelled but twelve miles, it being impossible to urge our worn-out horses farther. Near our camp this evening we found some large gooseberries and currants, and made a hearty meal upon them. They were to us peculiarly delicious. We have lately been living entirely upon dried buffalo, without vegetables or bread ; even this is now failing us, and we arc upon short allowance. Game is very scarce, our hunters cannot find any, and our Indians have killed but two buffalo for several days. Of this small stock they would not spare us a mouthful, so it is probable we shall soon be hungry. The alluvial plain here presents many unequivocal evidences of volcanic action, bein^ thickly covered with masses of lava, and high walls and regular columns of basalt appear in many places. The surrounding country is composed, as usual, t f high hills and narrow, stony valleys between them ; the hills ire thirkly covered with a growth of small cedars, but on the plain, nothing flourishes but the everlasting wormwood, or sage as it is here called. Our encampment on the 8th, was near what are called the " White-clay pits," still on Bear river. The soil is soft chalk, white and tenacious ; and in the vicinity are several springs of strong supercarbonated water, which bubble up with all the activity of artificial fountains. The tnste was very agreeable II S 82 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY V I and refreshing, resembling Saratoga water, but not so saline. The whole plain to the hills, is covered with little mounds formed of calcareous sinter, having depressions on their sumniits, from which once issued streams of water. The extent of these erup- tions, at some former period, must have been very great. At about half a mile distant, is an eruptive thermal spring of the temperature of 90°, and near this is an opening in the earth from which a stream of gas issues without water. In a thicket of common red cedars, near our camp, I found, and procured several specimens of two beautiful and rare birds which I had never before seen — the Lewis' woodpecker and Clark's crow, (Picus torquatus and Corvus columbianus.) We remained the wiiole of the following day in camp to recruit our horses, and a good opportunity was thus afforded me of inspecting all the curiosities of this wonderful region, and of procuring some rare and valuable specimens of birds. Three of our hunters sallied forth in pursuit of several buffalo whose tracks had been observed by some of the men, and we were overjoyed to sec them return in the evening loaded with the meat and marrow bones of two animals which they had killed. We saw here the whooping crane, and white pelican, numerous ; and in the small streams near the bases of the hills, the common canvass-back duck, shoveller, and black duck. (^Anas obacura,) were feeding their young. We were this evening visited by Mr. Thomas McKay,* an Indian trader of some note in the mountains. lie is a step-son of Dr. McLaughlin, the chief factor at Fort Vancouver, on the • This ig the son of Mr. Alexander McKay, who was massacred by tlie Indians of the N. W. Coast on board the ship" Tonquin," an account ol wliicli is given in Irving'* " Astoria." I have often heard McKay speak of tlie tragical fate of his parent, and with the bitter animosity and love of revenge inherited from his Indian mother, I have heard him declare that he will yet be known on the coast as the avenger of bloail, ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 83 Columbia, and the leader of a party of Canadians and Indians, now on a hunt in the vicinity. This party is at present in our rear, and Mr. McKay has come ahead in order to join us, and keep us company until we reach Portneuf river, where we intend building a fort. 10th. — Wc were moving early this morning : our horses were very much recruited, and seemed as eager as their masters to travel on. It is astonishing how soon a horse revives, and overcomes the lassitude consequent upon fatigue, when he is allowed a day's rest upon tolerable pasture. Towards noon, however, after encountering the rough lava-strewn plain for a few hours, they be- came sufficiently sobered to desist from all unnecessary curvetting and prancing, and settled down into a very matter-of-fact trudge> better suited to the country and to the work which they have yet to do. Soon after we left, we crossed one of the high and stony hills by which our late camp is surrounded ; then making a gentle descent, we came to a beautiful and very fertile plain. This is, however, very different from the general face of the country; in a short time, after passing over the rich prairie, ch : same dry aridity and depauperation prevailed, which is aim ■> ;'niversal west of the mountains. On the wide plain, \\l ob crved l.'i>ge sunken spots, some of ihcm of great extent, si. rioundeci by walls of lava, indicating the existence, at some very ancient date, of active craters. These eruptions have (» i nbly been ante- diluvian, or have existed at a period long a.itcrior to the present order of creation. On the side of the hills are high walls of lava and basaltic dykes, and many largeand dark caves are formed by the juxtaposition of the enormous masses. Early in the afternoon wc passed a large party of white men, encamped on the lava plain near one of the small streams. Horses were tethered all around, and men were lolling about playing games of cards, and loitering through the camp, as ' I k \\ I ■I 84 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY tlioiigh at a loss for employment. We soon ascertained it to bo Captain Bonneville's company resting after the fatigues of a long march. Mr. Wyeth and Captain Stewart visited the lodge of the " bald chief," and our party proceeded on its march. The difficulties of the route seemed to increase as we progressed, until at length we found ourselves wedged in among huge blocks of lava and columns of basalt, and were forced, most reluctantly, to retrace our steps for several miles, over the impediments which we had hoped we were leaving for ever behind us. We had nearly reached Bonneville's camp again, when Captains Wyeth and Stewart joined us, and we struck into another path which l)roved more tolerable. Wyeth gave us a rather amusing account of his visit to the worthy captain. He and Captain Stewart were received very kindly by the veteran, and every delicacy that the lodge afforded was brought forth to do them honor. Among the rest, was some methiglcn or diluted alcohol sweetened with honey, which the good host had concocted ; this dain'y beverage was set before them, and the thirsty guests were not slow in taking advantage of the invitation so obligingly given. Draught after draught of the precious liquor disappeared down the throats of the visiters, until the anxious, but still com- plaisant captain, began to grow uneasy. " J beg you will help yourselves, gentlemen," said the host, with a smile which lie intended to express the utmost urbanity, but w hich, in spite of himself, had a certain ghastlincss about it. " Thank you, sir, we will do so freely," replied the two worthies, and away went thu mclhiglen as bclbre. Cup after cup was drained, until the hollow sound of the keg indicated that its contents were nearly exhausted, when the company rose, and thanking the kind host for his noble enter- tainment, were bowed out of the tent with all the polite formality which the accomplished captain knows so well how to assume. Towards evening, we struck Blackfoot river, a small, sluggish, ACnOSn THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 86 8tn{;niint Hirnotn, heading with the waters of a rapid rivulet piiNWid yriHtcrdtty, which empties into the Bear river. This Htruuni pnMWfS in a north-westerly direction through a valley of about six milns in width, covered with quagmires, through which wo had ^rcttt difficulty in making our way. As we approached our t'Mcampmcnf, near a small grove of willows, on the margin of th« river, a tremendous grizzly bear rushed out upon us. Our liorHfiM ran wildly in every direction, snorting with terror, tt;. ' bnciim*! nearly unmanageable. Several bails were instantly fir«(l Into him, but they only seemed to increase his fury. After «pen(llnj( a moment in rending each wound, (their invariable pmi'UcM,) he Helccted the person who happened to bo nearest, and durtcul nfivr him, but before he proceeded far, he was sure to be stoppod iij^ain by a ball from another quarter. In this way he w(i« driven aiiout amongst us for perhaps fifteen minutes, at tiniiiH HO near some of thcvhorses, that he received several severe l, uud fixing U\h deadly aim upon him, fired a ball into the back I ' ks. I ; if 86 NARRATIVE OF A JOVRNET of his head, which killed him instantly. The strength of four men was required to drag the ferocious brute from the water, and upon examining his body, he was found completely riddled; there did not appear to be four inches of his shaggy person, from the hips upward, that had not received a ball. There must have been at least thirty shots made at him, and probably few missed him; yet such was his tenacity of life, that I have no doubt he would have succeeded in crossing the river, but for the last shot in the brain. He would probably »v> igh, at the least, six hundred pounds, and was about the height of nn ordinary steer. The spread of the foot, laterally, was ton inches, and the claws measured seven inches in length. Tins animal was remarkably lean ; when in good condition, he would, doubtless, much exceed in >veight the estimate I have given. Richardson, and two other hunters, in company, killed two in the course of the afternoon, and snw several others. This evening, our pet antelope, poor little " Zip Koon," met with a serious accident. The mule on which he rode, got her feet fastened in some lava blocks, and, in the struggle to extri- cate herself, fell violently on the pointed fragments. One of the delicate legs of our favorite was broken, and he was otherwise so bruifcd and hurt, that, from sheer mercy, we ordered him killed. We had hoped to be able to take him to the fort which we intend building on the Portneuf river, where he could have been comPjrtably cared for. This is the only pet we have had in the camp, which continued with us for more than a few days. We have sometinos taknn j'oung grizzly bears, but these little fellows, even v ';..") not larger than puppies, are so cross and snappish, that ;' is dangerous to Lundle them, and we could never become atlached to any animal so ungentle, and therefore young " Ephraim," (to give him his mountain cognomen,) gene- rally meets with but little mercy from US' when his evil genius throws him in our way. The young buffiilo calf is also very ACROSS THE ROCKY MOVNTAINS, ETC. 87 P'C often taken, and if removed from the mother, and out of sight of the herd, lie will follow the camp as steadily as a dog ; but his propensity for keeping close to the horse's heels, often gets him into trouble, as he meets with more kicks than caresses from them. He is considered an interloper, and treated accordingly. The bull calf of a month or two old, is sometimes rather difficult to manage; he shows no inclination to follow the camp like the younger ones, and requires to be dragged along by main force. At such times, he watches for a good opportunity, and before his captor is aware of what is going on, he receives a butt from the clumsy head of the intractable little brute, which, in most cases, lays him sprawling upon the ground. 1 had an adventure of this sort a lew days before wo arrived at the rendezvous. I captured a large bull calf, and with con- siderable difficulty, managed to drag him into the camp, by means of a rope noosed around his neck, and made fast to the high pommel of my saddle. Here I attached him firmly by a cord to a stake driven into the ground, and considered him secure. In a few minutes, however, ho succeeded in breaking )iis fastenings, and away he scoured out of the camp. I lost no time in giving chase, and although I fell flat into a ditch, and afforded no litttle ariiusement to our people thereby, I soon over- took him, and was about seizing the stranded rope, which was still around his neck, when, to my surprise, the little animal showed fight ; he came at me with all his force, and dashing his head into my breast, bore me to the ground in a twinkling. I, however, finally succeeded in recapturing him, and led and puslied him back into the camp; but I could make nothing of him ; his stubbornness would neither yioKl to severity or kind- ness, and the next morning I loosed him and let him go. lltk. — On ascending a hill this morning, Captain Wycth, who was lit the head of the company, suddenly espied an Indian stealinu; c utiouslv alonir the Wo are now on u stream which pours its waters diri'ctly into iho Columbia, and we can form some idea of the great Orng trma, mntorirtlH nselvfls jii ;o n hunt, unm\m\ preparing niilfl with IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) 1.0 I.I 12.8 ■50 |25 ^ 1^ 12.2 I y£ 12.0 MWu I 1 1.25 1 1.4 IJ4 ^ . 6" - ► ss ^ y ^\<^^ f9^ Photographic Sdences Corporation 23 WIST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 (716) S72-4S03 4^ 4^0 w r \ 92 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY ' ' CHAPTER VI. Departure of the hunting camp— A false alarm— £lackfeet Indians— their ferocity— Requisites of a mountain-man— Good fare, and good appetites— ^n erperiment— Grizzly bears— Visit of a JVex Percd Indian— Mvetaure with a grizzly bear— Hunter's anecdotes— Homeward bound— Occident from gun- powder — Arrival at " Fort Hall" — A salute— Emaciation of some of the party from low diet — Mr. McKay^s company — Buffalo lodges — Progress of the bmlding— Effects £/* judicious training— Indian -worship — A " Camp Meeting" — Mr. Jason Lee, a favorite— A fatal accident and a burial. July 16th. — Our little hunting party of twelve men, rode out of the encampment this morning, at a brisk trot, which gait was continued until we arrived at our late encamp)iient on Ross' creek, having gone about thirty miles. Here we came to a halt, and made a hearty meal on a buffalo which wq had just killed. While we were eating, a little Welshman, whom we had stationed outside our camp to watch the horses, came running to us out of breath, crying in a terrified falsetto, " Indians, Indiana/" In a moment every man was on his feet, and his gun in his hand ; the horses were instantly surrounded, by Richardson's direction, and driven into the bushes, and we were preparing ourselves for the coming struggle, when our hunter, peering out of the thick copse to mark the approach of the enemy, burst at once into a loud laugh, and muttering something about a Welsh coward, stepped boldy from his place of concealment, and told us to follow him. When we had done so, we perceived the band approaching steadily, and it seemed warily, along the path directly in our front. Richardson said something to them in an unknown tongue, which immediately brought several of the strangers to- ACROSS THE BOCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 80 wards us at full gallop. One of these was a Canadian, as his peculiar physiognomy, scarlet sash, and hat ribbons of gaudy colors, clearly proved, and the two who accompanied him, were Indians. These people greeted us with great cordiality, the more so, perhaps, as they had supposed, on seeing the smoke from our fire, that we were a band of Blackfeet, and that, there< fore, there was no alternative for them but to fight. While we were conversing, the whole party, of about thirty, came up, and it needed but a glance at the motley group of tawdrily dressed hybrid boys, and blanketted Indians, to convince us that this was McKay's company travelling on to join him at Fort Hall. They inquired anxiously about their leader, and seemed pleased on being informed that he was so near; the prospect of a few day's rest at the fort, and the regale by which their arrival was sure to be commemorated, acted upon the spirits of the mer- curial young half-breeds, like the potent liquor which they ex- pected soon to quaff in company with the kindred souls who were waiting to receive them. They all seemed hungry, and none required a second invita- tion to join us at our half finished meal. The huge masses of savoury fleece meat, hump-ribs, and side-ribs disappeared, and were polished with wonderful dispatch ; the Canadians ate like half famished wolves, and the sombre Indians, although slower and more sedate in their movements, were very little behind their companions in the agreeable process of mastication. - The next day we rode thirty-four miles, and encamped on a pretty little stream, fringed with willows, running through the midst of a large plain. Within a few miles, we saw a small herd of buffalo, and six of our company lefl the camp for a hunt. In an hour two of them returned, bringing the meat of one ani- mal. We all commenced work immediately, cutting it in thin slices, and hanging it on the bushes to dry. By sundown, our work was finished, and soon after dark, the remaining hunters 94 I.J NARRATIVE OF A JOtTBMBV came in, bringing the best parts of three more. This will give us abundance of work for to-morrow, when the hunters will go out again. < . ;."• ; i f Richardson and Sansbury mention having seen several Black* feet Indians to-day, who, on observing them, ran rapidly away, and, as usual, concealed themselves in the bushes. We are now certain that our worst enemies are around us, and that they are only waiting for a favorable time and opportunity to make an attack. They are not here for nothing, and have probably been dogging us, and reconnoitering our outposts, so that the greatest caution and watchfulness will be required to prevent a surprise. We are but a small company, and there may be at this very moment hundreds within hearing of our voices. The Blackfoot is a sworn and determined foe to all white men, and he has often been heard to declare that he would rather hang the scalp of a " pale face" to his girdle, than kill a buffalo to prevent his starving. .- The hostility of this dreaded tribe is, and has for years been, proverbial. They are, perhaps, the only Indians who do not fear the power, and who refuse to acknowledge the superiority of the white man; and though so often beaten in conflicts with them, even by their own mode of warfare, and generally with numbers vastly inferior, their indomitable courage and per* severance still urges them on to renewed attempts ; and if a single scalp is taken, it is considered equal to a great victory, and is hailed as a presage of future and more extensive triumphs. It must be acknowledged, however, that this determined hos- tility does not originate solely in savage nalignity, or an abstract thirst for the blood of white men ; it is fomented and kept alive from year to year by incessant provocatives on the part of white hunters, trappers, and traders, who are at best but in- truders on the rightful domains of the red man of the wilderness. ACROSS THB KOCKY HOVNTAITIS, ETC. Many a night have I sat at the camp-fire, and listened to the recital of bloody and ferocious scenes, in which the narrators were the actors, and the poor Indians the victims, and I have felt my blood tingle with shame, and boil with indignation, to hear the diabolical acts applauded by those for whose amusement they were related. Many a precious villain, and merciless marauder, was made by these midnight tales of rapine, murder, and rob- bery ; many a stripling, in whose tender mind the seeds of virtue and honesty had never germinated, burned for an opportunity of loading his pack-horse with the beaver skins of some solitary Blackfoot trapper, who was to be murdered and despoiled of the property he had acquired by weeks, and perhaps months, of toil and danger. Acts of this kind are by no means unfrequent, and the subjects of this sort of atrocity are not 'always the poor and despised Indians : white men themselves often fall by the hands of their companions, when by good fortune and industry they have succeeded in loading their horses with fur. The fortunate trapper is treacherously murdered by one who has eaten from the same dish and drank from the same cup, and the homicide returns triumphantly to his camp with his ill gotten property. If his companion be inquired for, the answer is that some days ago they parted company, and he will probably soon join them. The poor man never returns — no one goes to search for him— he is soon forgotten, or is only remembered by one more steadfast than the rest, who seizes with avidity the first opportunity which is afforded, of murdering an unoffending Indian in revenge for the death of his friend. On the 20th, We moved our camp to a spot about twelve miles distant, where Richardson, with two other hunters, stopped yesterday and spent the night. They had killed several buffalo here, and were busily engaged in preparing the meat when we joined them. They gave us a meal of excellent cow's flesh, and 96 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY I thought I never had eaten any thing so delicious. Hitherto we have had only the bulls which are at this season poor and rather unsavory, but now we are feasting upon the heat food in the world. It is true we have nothing but meat and good cold water, but this is all we desire : we have excellent appetites, no dyspepsia, clear heads, sharp ears, and high spirits, and what more does a man require to make him happy ? We rise in the morning with the sun, stir up our fires, and roast our breakfast, eating usually from one to two pounds of meat at a morning meal. At ten o'clock we lunch, dine at two, sup at five, and lunch at eight, and during the night-watch com- monly provide ourselves with two or three " hump-ribs" and a marrow bone, to furnish employment and keep the drowsy god at a distance. Our present camp is a beautiful one. A rich and open plain of luxuriant grass, dotted with buffalo in all directions, a high picturesque hill in front, and a lovely stream of cold mountain water flowing at our feet. On the borders of this stream, as usual, is a dense belt of willows, and under the shade of these we sit and work by day, and sleep soundly at night. Our meat is now dried upon scaffolds constructed of old timber which we find in great abundance upon the neighboring hill. We keep a fire going constantly, and when the meat is sufficiently dried, it is piled on the ground, preparatory to being baled. 21 at. — The buffalo appear even more numerous than when we came, and much less suspicious than common. The bulls fre- quently pass slowly along within a hundred yards of us, and toss their shaggy and frightful looking heads as though to warn us against attacking or approeching them. Towards evening, to-day, I walked out with my gun, in the direction of one of these prowling monsters, and the ground in his vicinity being covered densely with bushes, I determined to ACROSS THE ROCKY MOVNTAINB, ETC. 9f to approach as near him as possible, in order to try the efficacy of a ball planted directly in the centre of the forehead. I had heard of this experiment having been tried without success, and I wished to ascertain the truth for myself. " Taking the wind" of the animal, as it is called, (that is, keeping to leeward, so that my approach could not be perceived by communicating a taint to the air,) I crawled on my hands and knees with the utmost caution towards my victim. The un« wieldy brute was quietly and unsuspiciously cropping the herb* age, and I had arrived to within ten feet of him, when a sudden flashing of the eye, and an impatient motion, told me that I wa« observed. He raised his enormous head, and looked around him, and so truly terrible and grand did he appear, that I must con* fess, (in your car,) I felt awed, almost frightened, at the task I had undertaken. But I had gone too far to retreat; so, raising my gun, I took deliberate aim at the bushy centre of the fore* head, and fired. The monster shook his head, pawed up the earth with his hoofs, and making a sudden spring, accompanied by a terrific roar, turned to make his escape. At that instant, the ball from the second barrel penetrated his vitals, and he measured his huge length upon the ground. In a few seconds he was dead. Upon examining the head, and cutting away the enormous mass of matted hair and skin which enveloped the skull, my large bullet of twenty to the pound, was found com- pletely flattened against the bone, having carried with it, through the interposing integument, a considerable portion of the coarse hair, but without producing the smallest fracture. I was satis* fied ; and taking the tongue, (the hunteWs perquisite,) I returned to my companions. This evening the roaring of the bulls in the gang near us is terrific, and these sounds are mingled with the howling of large packs of wolves, which regularly attend upon them, and the hoarse screaming of hundreds of ravens flying over head. The dreaded 13 98 NARBATIVE OF A JOlTltNET grizzly bear is also quite common in this neighborhood ; two have just been seen in some bushes near, and they visit our camp al- most every night, attracted by the piles of meat which are heaped all around us. The first intimation wc have of his approach is a great grunt or snort, unlike any sound I ever heard, but much more querulous than fierce; then we hear the scraping and tramping of his huge feet, and the snufHng of his nostrils, as the savory scent of the meat is wafted to them. He approaches nearer and nearer, with a stealthy and fearful pace, but just as he is about to accomplish the object of his visit, he suddenly stops short ; the snuffing is repeated at long and trembling intervals, and if the sliglitest motion is then made by one of the party, away goes "Ephraim,^^ like a cowardly burglar as he is, and we hear no more of him that night. On the 23d a Nez Perc^ Indian, belonging to Mr. McKay's company, visited us. He is one of several hunters who have been sent from the fort on the same errand as ourselves. This was a middle aged man, with a countenance in which shrewd- ness or cunning, and complaisance, appeared singularly blended. But his person was a perfect wonder, and would have served ad- mirably for the study of a sculptor. The form was perfection itself. The lower limbs were entirely naked, and the upper part of the person was only covered by a short checked shirt. His blanket lay by his side as he sat with us, and was used only while moving. I could not but admire the ease with which the man squatted on his haunches immediately as he alighted, and the position both of body and limbs was one that, probably, no white man unaccustomed to it, could have endured for many minutes together. The attitude, and indeed the whole figure was groceful and easy in the extreme; and on criticising his per- son, one was forcibly reminded of the Apollo Belvidere of Canova. His only weapons were a short bow and half a dozen arrows, a scalping knife and tomahawk ; with these, however, weak and in- ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 99 efficient as they seemed, he had done good service, every arrow being smeared with blood to the feathers. Ho told Richardson that ho and his three or four companions had killed about sixty buffalo, and that noiv , having meat enough, they intended to re< turn to their camp to-morrow. This afternoon I observed a large flock of wild geese passing over ; apd upon watching them, perceived that they alighted about a mile and a half from us, where I knew there was a lake. Con- cluding that a little change of diet might be agreeable, I sallied forth with my gun across the plain in quest of the birds. I soon arrived at a thick copse of willow and currant bushes, which skirted the water, and was about entering, when I heard a sort of angry growl or grunt directly before me — and instantly after, saw a grizzly bear of the largest kind erect himself upon his hind feet within a dozen yards of me, his savage eyes glaring with horrible malignity, his mouth wide open, and his tremendous paws raised as though ready to descend upon me. For a mo- ment, I thought my hour had come, and that I was fated to die an inglorious death away from my friends and my kindred ; but after waiting a moment in agonizing suspense, and the bear show- ing no inclination to advance, my lagging courage returned, and cocking both barrels of my gun, and presenting it as steadily as my nerves would allow, full at the shaggy breast of the creat'uo; I retreated slowly backwards. Bruin evidently had no notion o*' braving gunpowder, but I did not know whether, like a dog, if the enemy retreated he would not yet give me a chase ; so when I had placed about a hundred yards between us, I wheeled about and flew, rather than ran, across the plain towards the camp. Several times during this run for life, (as I considered it,) did I fancy that I heard the bear at my heels ; and not daring to look over my shoulder to ascertain the fact, I only increased my speed, until the camp was nearly gained, when, from sheer ex- haustion I relaxed my efforts, fell flat upon the ground, and jm NABRATIVB OF A JOURNEY looked behind me. The whole 8pace between me and the copse was untenanted, and I was forced to acknowledge, with a feeling strongly allied to shame, that my fears alone had represented the bear in chase of me. When I arrived in camp, and told my break-neck adventure to the men, our young companion, Mr. Ashworth, expressed a wish tu go and kill the bear, and requested the loan of my double-bar- relled gun for this purpose. This I at first peremptorily refused, and the men, several of whom were experienced hunters, joined me in urging him not to attempt the rash adventure. At length, how- ever, finding him determined on going, and that rather than re- main, he would trust to his own single gun, I was finally induced to of- fer him mine, with a request, (which I had hoped would check his daring spirit,) that he would leave the weapon in a situation where I could readily find it; for afler he had made one shot, he would never use a gun again. He seemed to heed our caution and tidvice but little, and, with a dogged and determined air, took the way across the plain to the bushes, which we could see in the distance. I watched him for some time, until I saw him enter them, and then, with a sigh that one so young and talented should be lost from amongst us, and a regret that we did not forcibly prevent his going, I sat myself down, distressed and melancholy. We all listened anx- iously to hear the report of the gun; but no sound reaching our ears, we began to hope that he had failed in finding the animal, and in about fifteen minutes, to my inexpressible relief, we saw him emerge from the copse, and bend his steps slowly towards us. When he came in, he seemed disappointed, and somewhat angry. He said he had searched the bushes in every direction, and although he had found numerous foot prints, no bear was to be seen. It is probable that when I commenced my retreat in one direction, bruin made off in the other, and that although he was willing to dispute the ground with me, and prevent my ACROM TtlR ROCKY NOVIfTAINS, RTC. lOl paNilng hill lair, ho waa equally willing to back out of on rn. gagoment in which his fears suggested that he might como oif the loser. This evening, as wo sat around the camp Arc, cozily wrapped in our blankets, some of our old hunters became garrulous, and wo hnd several good ** yarnt" as a sailor would say. Ono told of his having boon shot by a Blackfoot Indian, who was disguised in the skin of on elk, and exhibited, with some little pride, o groat cicatrix which disfigured his neck. Another gave us an interesting account of an attack made by the Cumancho Indians upon a party of Santa*Fco traders, to which he hud been ottachod. The whito men, as is usual in general engagements with Indians, gained a signal victory, not, however, without tho loss of several of their best hunters ; and tho old man, who told the story,—-" undo John," as he was usually called,— shod tears at the recollection of tho death of his friends ; and during that part of his narrative, was several times so much affected as to be unable to speak.* The best story, however, was one told by Richardson, of a meeting ho once had with three Blackfcet Indians. Ho had been out alono hunting buffalo, and towards tho end of tho day was returning to tho camp with his meat, when ho heard tho clattering of hoofs in tho rear, and, upon looking back, observed three Indians in hot pursuit of him. He immediately discharged hia cargo of meat to lighten his horse, and thon urged tho animal to his utmost speed, in on attempt to distance his pursuers. He soon discovered, however, that the onemy was rapidly gaining upon him, and that in a Cow * I have roiieatedljf obtsrved theie exhibitions of feeling in some of our pcoplo upon piirtieular oecationi, and I have been pleaied with them, at Uiey wemed to furniih an cvidonee, that amid all the mental sterility, and absence of moral rectitude, which is lo deplorably prevalent, there yet lingers some kindlinsM of heart, some sentiments which ore not wliotly depraved. 103 NARRATIVE OF A JOITRIfRY minutos moro, ho would bo complotoly at thoir mercy, when he hit upon an cypediont, as singular as it was bold and courageous. Drawing his long scalping knifo from tho sheath at his side, ho plunged tho keen weapon through his horse's nock, and severed tho spine. Tho animal dropped instantly dead, and tho dotcr- mined hunter, throwing himself behind tho fallen carcass, waited calmly tho approach of his sanguinary pursuers. In a few moments, ono Indian was within range of tho fatal rifle, and at its report, his horse galloped riderless over tho plain. Tho re- maining two then thought to take him at advantage by approach- ing simultaneously on both sides of his rampart; but ono of thorn, happening to venture too near in order to bo sure of his aim, was shot to the heart by tho long pistol of tho white man, at tho very instant that tho ball from the Indian's gun whistled harm- lessly by. The third savage, being wearied of the dangerous game, applied the whip vigorously to tho flanks of his horse, and was soon out of sight, while Richardson sot about collecting the trophies of his singular victory. He caught the two Indians' horses ; mounted one, and loaded tho other with the meat which he had discarded, and returned to his camp with two spare rifles, and a good stock of ammunition. On the morning of tho 25th, we commenced baling up our meat in buflhlo skins dried for the purpose. Each bale contains about a hundred pounds, of which a mule carries two; and when we had finished, our twelve long-cared friends were loaded. Our limited term of absence is now nearly expired, and we are anxious to return to the fort in order to prepare for the journey to the lower country. At about 10 o'clock, we left our pleasant encampment, and bade adieu to tho cold spring, tho fat buflalo, and grizzly bears, and urging our mules into their fastest walk, wo jolted along with our provant towards the fort. i/r- ^^ ACR09I ma HOOKY MovifTAint, etc. I« In about nn hour after, an unplcaaant accident hopponnd to ono of our men, named McCorcy. Ho had been running a buflalo, and was alx)ut reloading the gun, which ho had just discharged, when the powder in hiH horn was ignited by o burn- ing wad remaining in the barrel ; tho horn was burst to frag- ments, tho poor man dashed from his horse, nnd his face, neck, and hands, burnt in a shocking manner. Wo applied, imme- diately, tho simple remedies which our situation and the placo afforded, and in tho course of an hour ho was somewhat relieved, and travelled on with us, though in considerable suffering. His eyes wore entirely closed, the lids very much swollen, and his long, flowing hair, patriarchal beard nnd eye-brows, had all vanished in smoke. It will bo long ero ho guts another such crop. The weather hero is generally uncomfortably warm, so much 80, that wo discard, while travelling, all such encumbrances as coats, neckcloths, &c., but tho nights arc excessively cold, ice often forming in tho camp kettles, of tho thickness of half an inch, or more. My custom has generally been to roll myself in my blanket at night, and use my largo coat as a pillow; but hero the coat must be worn, and my saddle has to serve the purpose to which the cont is usually applied. Wo travelled, this day, thirty miles, and the next afternoon, at 4 o'clock, arrived ot the fort. On tho route we met three hunters, whom Captain W. had sent to kill game for tho camp. They informed us that all hands have been for several days on short allowance, and wore very anxious for our return. When we came in sight of the fort, wc gave them a mountain salute, each man firing his gun in quick succession. They did not expect us until to-morrow, and the firing aroused them instantly. In a very few minutes, a score of men were armed and mounted, and dashing out to give battle to the advancing Indians, as they thought us. The general supposition was, that 104 NARBATIVE OF A JOURNEY their little hunting party had been attacked by a band of roving Blackfeet, and they made themselves ready for the rescue in a space of time that did them great credit. It was perhaps " bad medicine" (to use the mountain phrase,) to fire a salute at all, inasmuch as it excited some unnecessary alarm, but it had the good effect to remind them thut danger might be near when they least expected it, and afforded them an opportunity of showing the promptness and alacrity with which they could meet and brave it. Our people were all delighted to see us arrive, and I could perceive many a longing and eager gaze cast upon the well filled bales, as our mules swung their little bodies through the camp. My companion, Mr. N., had become so exceedingly thin that I should scarcely have known him; and upon my expressing surprise at the great change in his appearance, he heaved a sigh of inanity, and remarked that I " would have been as thin as he if I had lived on old Ephraim for two weeks, and short allowance of that." I found, in truth, that the whole camp had been sub- sisting, during our absence, on little else than two or three grizzly bears which had been killed in the neighborhood ; and with a complacent glance at my own rotund and cow-fed person, I wished my poor friend better luck for the future. We found Mr. McKay's company encamped on the bank of the river within a few hundred yards of our tents. It consists of thirty men, thirteen of whom are Indians, Nez Percys, Chinooks and Kayouse, with a few squaws. The remainder are French- Canadians, and half-breeds. Their lodges, — of which there are several, — are of a conical form, composed of ten long poles, the lower ends of which are pointed and driven into the ground ; the upper blunt, and drawn together at the top by thongs. Around these poles, several dressed buffalo skins, sewed together, are stretched, a hole being left on one side for entrance. These are the kind of lodges universally used by the mountain AfiKOIS TUB ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 105 Indians while travelling : they are very comfortable and com- modioui, and a mquaw accustomed to it, will erect and prepare one for the reception of her husband, while he is removing the trapping, from his horse. I have seen an expert Indian woman stretch a lodge in half the time that was required by four white men to perform tho same operation with another in the neigh- borhood. At tho fort, affairs look prosperous: the stockade is fin- ished ; two bastions have been erected, and the work is sin- gularly good, considering the scorcity of proper building tools. Tho house will now soon be habitable, and the structure can then bo completed at leisure by men who will be left hero in charge, wliilo tho party travels on to its destination, the Columbia. On tho evening of the 26th, Captain W. Mr. Nuttall and myself supped with Mr. McKay in his lodge. I am much pleased with this gentleman: ho unites the free, frankand open manners of the mountain man, with the grace and affability of the Frenchman. But above all, I admire the order, decorum, and strict subordina- tion which exists among his men, so different from what I have been accustomed to see in parties composed of Americans. Mr. McKay assures mo that he had considerable difficulty in bringing his men to tho state in which they now are. The free and fear- less Indian was particularly difficult to subdue; but steady, dotormined porMOVcrancc, and bold measures, aided by a rigid solf-oxampio, made them as clay in his hand, and has finally reduced thorn to their present admirable condition. If they misbohavo, a commensurate punishment is sure to follow: in extreme cases, flagellation is resorted to, but it is inflicted only by tho hand of tho Captain ; were any other appointed to perform this office on an Indian, the indignity would be deemed so great, that nothing less than the blood of the individual could appease the wounded feelings of tho savngc. 14 106 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY After supper wus concluded, we sat ourselves down on a buffalo robe at the entrance of the lodge, to see the Indians at their devotions. The whole thirteen were soon collected at the call of one whom they had chosen for their chief, and seated with sober, sedate countenances around a large tire. After remaining in perfect silence for perhaps fifteen minutes, the chief commenced an harangue in a solemn and impressive tone, reminding them of the object for which they were thus assembled, that of worshipping tlie " Great Spirit who made the light and the darkness, the fire and the water," and assured thern that if they oflfered up their prayers to him with but " one tongue," they would certainly be accepted. He then rose from his squatting position to his knees, and his example was followed by all the others. In this situation he commenced a prayer, consisting of short sentences uttered rapidly but with great apparent fervor, his hands clasped upon his breast, and his eyes cast upwards with a beseeching look towards heaven. At the conclusion of each sentence, a choral response of a few words was made, accom- panied frequently by low moaning. The prayer lasted about twenty minutes. After its conclusion, the chief, still maintainin g the same position of his body and hands, but with his head bent to his breast, commenced a kind of psalm or sacred song, in which the whole company presently joined. The song was a simple expression of a few sounds, no intelligible words being uttered. It resembled the words, Ho-ha-ho-ha-ho-hH-ha-S, com- mencing in a low tone, and gradually swelling to a full, round, and beautifully modulated chorus. During the song, the clasped hands of the worshippers were moved rapidly across the breast, and their bodies swung with great energy to the time of the music. The chief ended the song that he had commenced, by a kind of swelling groan, which was echoed in chorus. It was then taken up by another, and the same routine was gone ACROSS Till! ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 107 through. The whole ceremony occupied perhaps one and a half hours ; a short silence then succeeded, ader which each Indian rose from ihe ground, and disappeared in the darlcngss with a step noiseless as that of a spectre. I think I never was more gratified by any exhibition in my life. The humble, subdued, and beseeching looks of the poor untutored beings who were calling upon their hea- venly father to forgive their sins, and continue his mercies to them, and the evident and heart-felt sincerity which cha- racterized the whole scene, was truly affecting, and very im- pressive. The next day, being the Sabbath, our good missionary, Mr. Jason Lee, was requested to hold a meeting, with which he oblig- ingly complied. A convenient, shady spot was selected in the forest adjacent, and the greater part of our men, as well as the whole of Mr. McKay's company, including the Indians, attended. The usual forms of the Methodist service, (to which Mr. L. is attached,) were gone through, and were followed by a brief, but excellent and appropriate exhortation by that gentleman. The people were remarkably quiet and attentive, and the Indians sat upon the ground like statues. Although not one of them could understand a word that was said, they nevertheless maintained the most strict and decorous silence, kneeling when the preacher kneeled, and rising when he rose, evidently with a view of pay- ing him and us a suitable respect, however much their own no- tions as to the proper ind most acceptable forms of worship, might have been opposed to ours. A meeting for worship in the Rocky mountains is almost as unusual as the appearance of a herd of buffalo in the settlements. A sermon was perhaps never preached here before; but for my- self, I really enjoyed the whole scene ; it possessed the charm loe NARRATIVK OF A JOURNEY 'H or novelty, to say nothing of tho salutary elTuct which I sincerely hope it may produce. . ■- ■ : a- 4.<>,.,-i Mr. Leo is a great favorite with the men, deservedly so, and there are probably few persons to whoso preaching they would have listened with so much complaisance. I have oAen been amused and pleased by Mr. L.'s manner of reproving them for the coarseness and profanity of expression which is so uni- versal amongst them. The reproof, although decided, clear, and strong, is always characterized by the mildness and affectionate manner peculiar to the man ; and although tho good effect of tho advice may not be discernible, yet it is always treated with re- spect, and its utility acknowledged. , In the evening, a fatal accident happened to a Canadian be- longing to Mr. McKay's party. He was running his horse, in company with another, when the animals were met in full career by a third rider, and horses and men were thrown with great force to the ground. The Canadian was taken up completely senseless, and brought to Mr. McKay's lodge, where we were all taking supper. I perceived at once that there was little chance of his life being saved. He had received an injury of the head which had evidently caused concussion of the brain. He was bled copiously, and various local remedies were ap- plied, but without success ; the poor man died early next monung. He was about forty years of age, healthy, active, and shrewd, and very much valued by Mr. McKay as a leader in his absence, and as an interpreter among the Indians of the Columbia. At noon the body was interred. It was wrapped in a piece of coarse linen, over which was sewed a buffalo robe. The spot se- lected, was about a hundred yards south of the fort, and the funeral was attended by the greater part of the men of both camps. Mr. Lee ofHciated in performing the ordinary church ACROSS TIIK ROCKV MOUNTAINS, ETC. les .ly nd lid en im li- Dd itc he ■e- ceremony, aflcr which a hymn for the repose of the soul of the departed, was sung by the Canadians present. The grave is surrounded by a neat palisade of willows, with a black cross erected at the head, on which is carved the name " Casseau." :■•■ :' ■>■> ' to- in er at \y u le I. •- t •f no MARRATIVK OF A JOUBNKY CHAPTER VII. Departurt of Mr. McKaxfs party. Captain Stewart, and the misitionariet — Debauch at the fort — Departure of the company— Poor provision— Blacttfeet hunting ground — ^ toilsome journey, and sufferings from thirst — Goddin's creek — Antoine Goddin, the trapper— Scarcity of game — A buffalo — Bugged mountains — Comforting rejections of the traveller — More game — Unusual economy — Habits of the white ivoy—" Thomburg's pass" — Diffcult travel' ling — T%< captain in jeopardy among the snow— A countermarch— Deserted Banneck camp— Toilsome and dangerous passage of the mountain — Mallade river — Beaver dams, and beaver — A parly (tf Snake Indians— Scarcity of pasture — Another Banneck camp — " Xamas prairie" — Indian mode of pre- paring the kamas—Rat'.ne blanc, or biscxnt root — Travelling over the hills — Loss of horses by fatigue — Boisie or Big-wood river — Salmon — Choke-clier- ries, £j)c. On the 30th of July, Mr. McKay and his party left us for Fort Vancouver, Captain Stewart and ourbandofmisionarics ac- companying them. The object of the latter in leaving us, is, that they may have an opportunity of travelling more slowly than we should do, on account, and for the benefit of the horned cattle which they are driving to the lower country. Wc feel quite sad in the prospect of parting from those with whom we have endured some toil and danger, and who have been to some of us as brothers, throughout our tedious journey ; but, if no unforeseen accident occurs, we hope to meet them all again at Walla- Walla, the upper fort on the Columbia. As the party rode off, we fired three rounds, which were promptly answered, and three times three cheers wished the travellers success. August 5th. — At sunrise this morning, the " star-spangled banner" was raised on the flag-staff at the fort, and a salute ACROSS THE ROCKY MOVNTAIIfS, ETC. fired by the men, who, according to orders, assembled around it. All in camp were then allowed the free and uncontrolled use of liquor, and, as usual, the consequence was a scene of rioting, noise, and fighting, during the wholo day ; some became so drunk that their senses fled them entirely, and they were there* fore harmless ; but by far the greater number were just suf1i« ciently under the influence of the vile trash, to render them in their conduct disgusting and tiger-like. We had "gouging," biting, fisticuffmg, and " stamping" in the most " scientific" per- fection ; some even fired guns and pistols at each other, but these weapons were mostly harmless in the unsteady hands which employed them. Such scenes I hope never to witness again ; they arc absolutely sickening, and cause us to look upon our species with abhorrence and loathing. Night at last came, and cast her mantle over our besotted camp ; the revel was over, and the men retired to their pallets peaceably, but not a few of them will bear palpable evidence of the debauch of the 5th of August. The next morning we commenced packing, and at 1 1 oVIock bade adieu to " Fort Hall." Our company now consists of but thirty men, several Indian women, and one hundred and sixteen horses. We crossed the main Snake, or Shoshone river, at a point about three miles from the fort. It is here as wide as the Missouri at Independence, but, beyond comparison, clearer and more beautiful. Immediately on crossing the river, we entered tipon a wide, snndy plain, thickly covered with wormwood, and early in the aflernoon, encamped at the head of a delightful spring, about ten miles from our starting place. On the route, our hunters killed a young grizzly bear, which, with a few grouse, made us an excellent dinner. Fresh meat is now very grateful to our palates, as we have been living for weeks past on nothing but poor, dried buffalo, the better, and 113 NABRATIVE OF A JOrRNRT far the larger part, having been deposited in the fort for the subsistence of the men who remain. We have no flour, nor vegetables of any kind, and our meat may be aptly compared to dry chips, breaking short ofl^ in our fingers; and when boiled to Boden it a little, and render it fit for mastication, not a star appears in the pot. It seems astonishing that life can be sus- tained upon such miserable fare, and yet our men (except when under the influence of liquor) have never murmered, but have always eaten their crusty meal, and drunk their cold water with light and excellent spirits. We hope soon to fall in with the buffalo, and we shall then endeavor to prepare some good provision to serve until we reach the salmon region. We shall now, for about ten days, be travelling through the most dangerous country west of the mountains, the regular hunting ground of the Blackfeet Indians, who are said to be oflen seen here in parties of hundreds, or even thousands, scour- ing the plains in pursuit of the buffalo. Traders, therefore, seldom travel this route without meeting them, and being com- pelled to prove their valor upon them ; the white men are, how- ever, generally the victors, although their numbers are always vastly inferior. 7th. — We were moving this morning with the dawn, and travelled steadily the whole day, over one of the most arid plains we have seen, covered thickly with jagged masses of lava, and twisted wormwood bushes. Both horses and men were jaded to the last degree ; the former from the rough, and at times almost impassable nature of the track, and the latter from ex- cessive heat and parching thirst. We saw not a drop of water during the day, and our only food was the dried meat before spoken of, which we carried, and chewed like biscuits as we travelled. There are two reasons by which the extreme thirst which the way-farcr suffers in these regions, may be accounted ACBOSS THE BOOKY MOUNTAINS, BTO. 113 for; first, the intense heat of the sun upon the open and exposed plains ; and secondly, the desiccation to which every thing here is subject. The air feels like the breath of a sirocco, the tongue becomes parched and horny, and the mouth, nose, and eyes are incessantly assailed by the fine pulverized lava, which rises from the ground with the least breath of air. Bullets, pebbles of chalcedony, and pieces of smooth obsidian, were in great requisi- tion to-day ; almost every man was mumbling some of these substances, in an endeavor to assuage his burning thirst. The camp trailed along in a lagging and desponding line over the plain for a mile or more, the poor horses heads hanging low, their tongues protruding to their utmost extent, and their riders scarcely less drooping and spiritless. We were a sad and most forlorn looking company, certainly ; not a man of us had any thing to say, and none cared to be interrupted in his blissful dream of cool rivers and streams. Occasionally we would pass a ravine or gorge in the hills, by which one side of the plain was bounded, and up this some of the men would steer, leaping over blocks of lava, and breaking a path through the dense bushes ; but the poor searcher soon returned, disheartened and wo-begone, and those who had waited anxiously to hear his cheering call, announcing success, passed onward without a word. One of our men, a mulatto, afler failing in a forage of this sort, cast himself resolutely from his horse to the ground, and declared that he would lie there till he died ; " there was no water in the cursed country, and he might as well die here as go farther." Some of us tried to infuse a little courage into him, but it proved of no avail, and each was too much occupied with his own particular grief to use his tongue much in persuasion; so we left him to his fate. Soon after night-fall, some signs of water were seen in a small valley to our left, and, upon ascending it, the foremost of the party found a delightful little cold spring ; but they soon exhausted 114 NARRATIVE OF A JOVRNBY it, and thon commenced, with axes and knives, to dig it out and enlarge it. By the time that Mr. N., and myself arrived, they had excavated a largo space which was filled to overflowing with muddy water. We did not wait for it to settle, however, but throwing ourselves flat upon the ground, drank until we were ready to burst. The talcs which I had read of suffering travellers in the Arabian deserts, then recurred with some force to my re- collection, and I thought I could, — though in a very small measure, — appreciate their sufferings by deprivation, and their unmingled delight and satisfaction in the opportunity of assuaging them. Poor Jim, the mulatto man, was found by one of the people, who went back in search of him, lying where he had first fallen, and either in a real or pretended swoon, still obstinate about dying, and scarcely heeding the assurances of the other that water was within a mile of him. He was, however, at length dragged and carried into camp, and soused head foremost into the mud puddle, where he guzzled and guzzled until his eyes seemed ready to burst from his head, and he was lifled out and laid dripping and flaccid upon the ground. The next morning we made an early start towards a range of willows which we could distinctly see, at the distance of fifteen or twenty miles, and which we knew indicated Goddin's creek, so called from a Canadian of that name who was killed in this vicinity by the Blackfcet. Goddin's son, a half-breed, is now with us as a trapper ; he is a fine sturdy fellow, and of such strength of limb and wind, that he is said to be able to run down a buffalo on foot, and kill him with arrows. Goddin's creek was at length gained, and after travelling a few miles along its bank we encamped in some excellent pasture. Our poor horses seemed inclined to make up for lost time here, as yesterday their only food was the straggling blades of a little ACROM TUB KOCKY MOUNTAIN*, ETC. 115 dry and puruhed grau growing among the wormwood on tlio hilU. Wo havo boon considerably disappointed in not seeing any buflttio tO'day, and tlicir absence here has occasioned somo foar that wo may not moot with them on our route. Sliould thin bo the case, wc ahull have to depend upon such small gamr, hares, grouse, dec, as may happen to lie in our path. In a short time, however, even this resource will fail ; and if wo do not happen to see Indians on tho upper waters of tho Columbia, from whom wo can purchoso dried salmon, we shall be under tho necessity of killing our horses for food. We perhaps derive one advantage, however, from tho absence of game hero,— that of there being less probability of lurking Black feet in tho vicinity ; but this circumstance, convenient as it is, does not compensate for empty stomachs, and I believe tho men would rather fight for tho privilege of obtaining food, than live without it. Tho next morning we left Goddin's creek, and travelled for ton miles over a plain, covered as usual with wormwood bushes ond lavo. Early in tho day, the welcome cry of "o bufTulol a buffalo I" was hoard from the head of the company, and was echoed joyfully along the whole line. At the moment, a fine largo bull was soon to bound from the bushes in our front, and tear off with all his speed over the plain. Several hunters gave him chase immediately, and in a few minutes wo heard tho guns that proclaimed his death. The killing of this animal is a most fortunate circumstance for us : his meat will probably sustain us for three or four days, and by that titne we are sanguine of pro- curing other provision. The appearance of this buffalo iH not considered indicative of tho vicinity of others : he is probably a strogglor from a trovclling band, and has been unable to proceed with it, in consoquonco of sickness or wounds. 116 NARBATIVK OF A JOVMNSY On leaving the plain this morning, wo struck into a defile between some of the highcut mountains wo have yet aeon. In a short time wo commenced ascending, and continued passing over them, until late in the oilernoon, when we reached a plain about a mile in width, covered with excellent grass, and a delightful cool stream flowing through the middle of it. Hero we encamped, having travelled twcnty-seven miles. Our journey, to-day, has been particularly laborious. We were engaged for several hours, constantly in ascending and descending enormous rocky hills, with scarcely the sign of a valley between them ; and some of them so steep, that our horses were frequently in great danger of falling, by making a mis-stcp on tho loose, rolling stones. I thought tho Black Hills, on the Platte, rugged and difficult of passage, but they sink into insigni- ficance when compared with these. We observed, on these mountains, large masses of greenstone, and beautiful pebbles of chalcedony and fine agate; the summits of the highest are covered with snow. In tho mountain passes, we found an abundance of large, yellow currants, rather acid, but exceedingly palatable to men who have been long living on ani- mal food exclusively. We all ate heartily of them; indeed, some of our people became so much attached to the bushes, that we had considerable difficulty to induce them to travel again. 10/A. — We commenced our march at seven this morning, pro- ceeding up a narrow valley, bordering our encampment in a north-easterly direction. The ravine soon widened, until it became a broad, level plain, covered by the eternal "sage" bushes, but was much less stony than usual. About mid-day, we left the plain, and shaped our course over a spur of one of the large mountains ; then taking a ravine, in about an hour we came to the level land, and struck Goddin's creek again, late in the afternoon. Our provision was all exhausted at breakfast, this morning, i AL'ROH THB ROOKY MOCHTAIWI, PTC. 117 It (most of our bull meat havin ' lxK!n given lu n band of ton trap- IHjrs, who left ua yesterday,) wo bad swn no game on our route, and wo wore therefore preparing ourNcivos to retire svippcrlcss to our pallets, when Richardson and Sansbury were descried ap< proaching the camp, and, to our great comfort, wo observed that thoy had meat on their saddles. When they arrived, however, wo wore somewhat disappointed to find that they had only killed a calf, but they had brought the entire little animal with them, tho time for picking and choosing of choice pieces having passed with us ; and after making a hearty meal, wo wrapped ourselves in our blankets and slept soundly. Although but a scant break- fast was left for us in tho morning, and wo knew not if any dinner would fall in our way, yet " none of these things moved us ;" we lived altogether upon tho present, and heeded not tho future. We had always been provided for; often, when we had despaired of procuring sustenance, and when tho pangs of hunger had soured our temper, and made us quarrelsome, when we thought thero was no pros[)oct before us but to sacrifice our valuable horses, or dio of starvation, have tho means been pro- vided for our relief. A buffalo, an elk, or an antelope, has appeared like the goat provided for tho faithful Abraham, to save a moro valuable life, and I hope that some of us have been willing, reverently to acknowledge from whom these benefits and blessings have been received. On the day following, Richardson killed two buffalo, and brought his horse heavily laden with meat to the camp. Our good hunter walked himself, that the animal might be able to bear the greater burthen. After depositing tho meat in the camp, ho took a fresh horse, and accompanied by three men, returned to the spot where the game had been killed, (about four miles distant,) and in the evening, brought in every pound of it, leaving only the heavier bones. The wolves will be disappointed this evening ; they are accustomed to dainty picking when they • s 118 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY glean aflcr the hunters, but we have now abandoned the " wasty ways" wliich so disgraced us when game was abundant ; the despised leg bone, which was wont to be thrown aside with such contempt, is now polished of every tendon of its covering, and the savory hump is used as a kmd of dessert ader a meal of coarser meat. Speaking of wolves, I have oden been surprised at the perse- verance and tenacity with which these animals will sometimes follow the hunter for a whole day, to feed upon the carcass he may leave behind him. When an animal is killed, they seem to mark the operation, and stand still at a most respectful distance, with drooping tail and cars, as though perfectly indifferent to the matter in progress. Thus will they stand until the game is butchered, the meat placed upon the saddle, and the hunter is mounted and on his way ; then, if he glances behind him, he will see the wily forager stealthily crawling and prowling along towards the smoking remains, and pouncing upon it, and tearing it with tooth and nail, immediately as he gets out of reach. During the day, the wolves are shy, and rarely permit an approach to within gun-shot; but at night, (where game is abun- dant,) they arc so fearless as to come quite within the purlieus of the camp, and there sit, a dozen together, and howl hideously for hours. This kind of serenading, it may be supposed, is not the most agreeable; and many a time, when on guard, have I observed the unquiet tossing of the bundles of blankets near me, and heard issue from them, the low, husky voice of some dis- turbed sleeper, denouncing heavy anathemas on the unseasonable music. \2tk. — We shaped onr course, this morning, towards what appeared to us a gap in a high and rugged mountain, about twenty miles ahead. After proceeding eight or ten miles, the character of the country underwent a remarkable and sudden change. Instead of the luxuriant sage bushes, by which the ACROSS TUE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 119 whole plains have hitherto been covered, and the compact and donna growth of willows which has uniformly fringed every stream and rivulet, the ground was completely denuded ; not a single shrub was to be seen, nor the smallest appearance of vege- tation, except in small patches near the water. The mountains, also, which had generally been rocky, and covered with low, tangled bushes, here abound in beautiful and shapely pine trees. Homo of the higher peaks are, however, completely bare, and capped with enormous masses of snow. After wo had travelled about twelve miles, we entered a defile between the mountains, about five hundred yards wide, covered, like the surrounding country, with pines ; and, as we proceeded, the timber grew so closely, added to a thick undergrowth of bimhes, that it appeared almost impossible to proceed with our horses. The farther we advanced, the more our difficulties icomcd to increase; obstacles of various kinds impeded our progress ;— fallen trees, their branches tangled and matted toge- ther, large rocks and deep ravines, ' oles in the ground, into which our animals would be precipitated without the possibility of avoiding them, and an hundred other difficulties, which beggar description. Wo travelled for six miles through such a region as I have attempted to describe, and at 2 o'clock encamped in a cloar spot of ground, where we found excellent grass, and a cold, rapid stream. Soon after we stopped, Captain W. and Richardson left UN, to look for a pass through the mountains, or for a spot where it would be possible to cross them. Strange as it may appear, yet in this desolate and almost impassable region we have ob- served, to-day, the tracks of a buffalo which must have passed hero last night, or this morning ; at least so our hunters say, and they are rarely deceived in such matters. Captain W. and Richardson returned early next morning, with tho mortifying intelligence that no practicable pass through the ir 9 130 NABRATIVE OF A JOURNEY il mountain could be found. They ascended to the very summit of one of the highest peaks, above the snow and the reach of ve- getation, and the only prospect which they had beyond, was a confused mass of liugc angular rocks, over which even a wild goat could scarcely have made his way. Although they utterly failed in the object of their exploration, yet they were so fortunate as to kill a buffalo, {the buffalo,) the meat of which they brought on their horses. Wyeth told us of a narrow escape he had while travelling on foot near the summit of one of the peaks. He was walking on a ridge which sloped from the top at an angle of about forty de- grees, and terminated, at its lower part, in a perpendicular preci- pice of a thousand or twelve hundred feet. He was moving along in the snow cautiously, near the lower edge, in order to attain a more level spot beyond, when his feet slipped and he fell. Before he could attempt to fix himself firmly, he slid down the declivity till within a few feet of the frightful precipice. At the instant of his fall, he had the presence of mind to plant the rifle which he held in one hand, and his knife which he drew from the scabbard with the other, into the snow, and as he almost tottered on the verge, he succeeded in checking himself, and hold- ing his body perfectly still. He then gradually moved, first the rifle and then the knife, backward up the slanting hill behind him, and fixing them firmly, drew up his body parallel to them. In this way he moved slowly and surely until he had gained his former station, when, without further difficulty, he succeeded in reaching the more level land. After a good breakfast, we packed our horses, and struck back on our trail of yesterday, in order to try another valley which we observed bearing parallel with this, at about three miles dis- tant, and which we conclude must of course furnish a pass through the mountain. Although our difficulties in returning by the same wretched route were very considerable, yet they were f ACROSS "^HE BOCKV MOUNTAINS, ETC. 131 somewhat diminished by the road having been partially broken, and we were enabled also to avoid many of the sloughs and pit- falls which had before so much incommoded us. We have named this rugged valley, " Thornburg's 'pass" after one of our men of this name, (a tailor,) whom we have to thank for leading us into all these troubles. Thornburg crossed this mountain two years ago, and might therefore be expected to know something of the route, and as he was the only man in the company who had been here, Captain W. acted by his advice, in opposition to his own judgment, which had suggested the other valley as af- fording a more probable chance of success. As we are probably the only white men who have ever penetrated into this most vile and abominable region, we conclude that the name we have given it must stand, from priority. In the bushes, along the stream in this valley, the black-tailed deer {Cercus macrourus) is abundant. The beautiful creatures frequently bounded from their cover within a few yards of us, and trotted on before us like domestic animals ; " they arc so un- acquainted with man" and his cruel arts, that they seem not to fear him. We at length arrived on the open plain again, and in our route towards the other valley, we came to a large, recent Indian encampment, probably of Bannecks,* who are travelling down to * We afterwards learned, that only three days before our arriTal, a hard con- tested, and moat sanguinary battle, had been fought on this spot, between the Bannecks and Blackfeet, in which the former gained a signal and most complete victory, killing upwards of forty of their adversaries, and taking about three dozen scalps. The Blackfeet, although much the larger party, were on foot, but the Bannecks, being all well mounted, had a very decided advantage; and the contest occurring on an open plain, where there was no chance of cover, the Blackfeet were run down with horses, and, without being able to load their guns, were trampled to death, or killed with sulinon spears and axes. This was not the first lime that we narrowly escaped a contest with this savage 16 I i; f m 122 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY the fisheries on Snake river. We here took their trail which led up the valley to which we had been steering. The entrance was very similar in appearance to that of Thornburg's pass, and it is not therefore very surprising that our guide should have been de- ceived. We travelled rapidly along the level land at the base of the mountain, for about three miles ; we then began to ascend, and our progress was necessarily slow and tedious. The com- mencement of the Alpine path was, however, far better than wo had expected, and we entertained the hope that the passage could be made without difficulty or much toil, but the farther we pro- gressed, the more laborious the travelling became. Sometimes we mounted steep banks of intermingled flinty rock, and friable slate, where our horses could scarcely obtain a footing, frequently sliding down several feet on the loose, broken stones : — again we passed along the extreme verge of tremendous precipices at a giddy height, whereat almost every step the stones and earth would roll from under our horses' feet, and we could hear them strike with a dull, leaden sound on the craggy rucks below. The whole journey, to-day, from the time we arrived at the heights, until we had crossed the mountain, has been a most fearful one. For myself, I might have diminished the danger very considerably, by adopt- ing the plan pursued by the rest of the company, that of we'king, and leading my horse over the most dangerous places, but I have been suffering for several days with a lame foot, and am wholly incapable of such exertion. I soon discovered that an attempt to guide my horse over the most rugged and steepest ranges was worse than useless, so I dropped the rein upon the animal's neck, and allowed him to take his own course, closing my eyes, and keeping as quiet as possible in the saddle. But I could not for- nnd most dreaded tribe. If wc had (msscd there but a few days earlier, there is every probability to suppose that we should have been attacked, as our party at that time cousisted of but twenty-six men. ACnOSS THE ROCKY MOVNTAINS, ETC. 123 IS ut bear starting occasionally, when the feet of my horse would slip on a stone, and one side of him would slide rapidly towards the edge of the precipice, but I always recovered myself by a desperate effort, and it was fortunate for me that I did so. Late in the afternoon, we completed the passage across the mountain, and with thankful hearts, again trod the level land. We entered here a fine rich valley or plain, of about half a mile in width, between two ranges of the mountain. It was profusely covered with willow, and through the middle of it, ran a rapid and turbulent mountain torrent, called Malladc river. It contains a great abundance of beaver, their recent dams being seen in great numbers, and in the night, when all was quiet, we could hear the playful animals at their gambols, diving from the shore into the water, and striking the surface with their broad tails. The sound, altogether, was not unlike that of children at play, and the animated description of a somewhat similar scene, in the " Mohicans," recurred to my recollection, where the single-minded Gamut is contemplating with feelings of strong reprobation, the wayward freaks of what he supposes to be a bevy of young savages. lAth.—We travelled down Mallade river, and followed the Indian trail through the valley. The path frequently passed along near the base of the mountain, and then wound its way a considerable distance up it, to avoid rocky impediments and thick tangled bushes below, so that we had some climbing to do ; but the difficulties and perils of the route of yesterday are still so fresh in our memory, that all minor things are disregarded, at least by us. Our poor horses, however, no doubt feel differently, as they are very tired and foot sore. The next day we came to a close and almost impenetrable thicket of tangled willows, through which we had great diffi- culty in urging our horses. The breadth of the thicket was -;!! 124 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY about one hundred yards, and a full hour was consumed in pass- ing through it. We then entered immediately a rich and beauti- ful valley, covered profusely with a splendid blue Lupin. The mountains on either side are of much less height than those wo have passed, and entirely bare, the pine trees which generally cover and ornament them, having disappeared. During the morning, we ascended and descended several high and stony hills, and early in the afternoon, emerged upon a large, level prairie, and struck a branch of Mallade river, where wc en- camped. • . While we were unloading, we observed a number of Indians ahead, and not being aware of their character, stood with our horses saddled, while Captain W. and Richardson rode out to re- connoitre. In about half an hour they returned, and informed us that they were Snakes who were returning from the fisheries, and travelling towards the buffalo on the " big river," (Shoshon^.) We therefore unsaddled our poor jaded horses and turned them out to feed upon the luxuriant pasture around the camp, while we, almost equally jaded, threw ourselves down in our blankets to seek a little repose and quiet after the toils and fatigues of a long day's march. Soon after we encamped, the Snake chief and two of his young men visited us. We formed a circle around our lodge and smoked the pipe of peace with them, after which we made them each a present of a yard of scarlet cloth for leggings, some balls and powder, a knife, and a looking glass. Captain W. then asked them a number of questions, through an interpreter, relative to the route, the fishery, &c. &c., — and finally bought of them a small quantity of dried salmon, and a little fermented kamas or quamash root. The Indians remained with us until dark, and then loft us quietly for their own camp. There ci- 'wo lodges of them, in all about twenty persons, but none oi ihcm presumed to come near us, with the exception of the three men, two ACROSS TIIR ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. Vili squaws, and a few children. The chief is a man about (illy years of age, tall, and dignified looking, with large, strong U(|uu> line features. His manners were cordial and agreeable, perliapM remarkably so, and he exhibited very little of that stoical indilFer- ence to surrounding objects which is so characteristic of an ln« dian. His dress consisted of plain leggings of deer skin, fringed at the sides, unembroidered moccasins, and a marro or wiiitit* covering of antelope skin dressed without removing the huir. The upper part of his person was simply covered with a small blanket, and his ears were profusely ornamented with brnnN rings and beads. The men and squaws who accompanied himi were entirely naked, except that the latter had marro's of deer skin covering the loins. The next morning we steered west across the wide prairie, crossing within every mile or two, a branch of the tortuous Mallade, near each of which good pasture was seen ; but on tho main prairie scarcely a blade of grass could be found, it having been lately fired by the Indians to improve the <;ropB of next year. We have seen to-day some lava and basalt again on tho sides of the hills, and on the mounds in the plain, but the level land was entirely free from it. At noon on the 17th, we passed a deserted Indian camp, pro* bably of the same people whose trail we have been following. There were many evident si-^ns of the Indians having but ro» cently left it, among which was that of several white wolves lurking around in the hope of finding remnants of meat, but, an a Scotchman would say, " I doubt they were mistaken," for meat is scarce here, and the frugal Indians rarely leave enough behind them to excite even the famished stomach of the lank and hun* gry wolf. The encampment here has been but a temporary one, occupying a little valley densely overgrown with willowN, the tops of which have been bent over, and tied so as to form ft sort of lodge ; over these, they have probably stretched door i 120 NARRATIVB OF A JOURNEY skins or blankets, to cxcliido tlio rnys of the sun. Of tlicse lodges there arc about forty in the valley, so that the party must liavo been a large one. . \ In the afternoon we arrived at " Kamas jyrairie" so called from a vast abundance of this esculent root which it produces, (the Kamassa eaculenta, of Nutlall.) The plain is a beautiful level one of about a mile over, hemmed in by low, rocky hills, and in spring, the pretty blue flowers of the Kamas are said to give it a |)cculiar, and very pleasing appearance. At this season, the flowers do not appear, the vegetable being indicated only by little dry stems which protrude all over the ground among the grass. • . ' . We encamped hero, near a small branch of Mallade river; and soon after, all hands took their kettles and scattered over the prairie to dig a mess of kamas. Wc were, ol course, eminently successful, and were furnished thereby with an excellent and wholesome meal. When boiled, this little root is palatable, and somewhat resembles the taste of the common potato ; the Indian mode of preparing it, is, however, the best — that of fermenting it in pits under ground, into which hot stones have been placed. It is suflered to remain in these pits for several days ; and when removed, is of a dark brown color, about the consistence of soft- ened glue, and sweet, like molasses. It is then often made into large cakes, by being mashed, and pressed together, and slightly baked in the sun. There arc several other kinds of bulbous and tuburous roots, growing in these plains, which arc eaten by the Indians, after undergoing a certain process of fermentation or baking. Among these, that which is most esteemed, is the white or biscuit root, the Racine blanc of the Canadians, — (Eulophua ambigvvs, of Nuttall.) This is dried, pulverized with stones, and after being moistened with water, is made into cakes and baked in the sun. The taste is not unlike that of a stale ACROSS T1IE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. biscuit, and to n hungry man, or one who hos long subsisted witliout vegetables of any kind, is rather palatable. On the morning of the 18th, we commenced ascending the hills again, and had a laborious and toilsome day's march. One of our poor wcoricd horses gave up, and stopped ; kicking, and cuffing, and beating had no effect to make him move ; the poor animal laid himself down with his load, and offer this was de- tached and shiffcd to the back of another, we left him where ho fell, to recruit, and fall into the hands of the Indians, or die among the arid hills. This is the first horse we have lost in this manner; but we have great fears that many others will soon fail, as their riders and drivers arc compelled to use the whip con- stantly, to make them walk at the slowest gait. Wo comfort ourselves, however, by supposing that we have now nearly passed the most rugged country on the route, and hope, before many days, to reach the valley of the Shoshon^, where the country will be level, and the pasture good. We arc anxious, also, to fall in with the Snake Indians, in order to get a supply of salmon, as we have been living for several days on a short allowance of wretched, dry meat, and this poor pittance is now almost exhausted. Idth. — This morning was cold, the thermometer stood at 28°, and a thick skim of ice was in the camp kettles at sunrise. Another hard day's travel over the hills, during which we lost two of our largest and stoutest horses. Towards evening, we descended to a fine large plain, and struck BoiaeCy or Big Wood river, on the borders of which we encamped. This is a beautiful stream, about one hundred yardi) in width, clear as crystal, and, in some parts, probably twenty feet deep. It is literally crowded with salmon, which are springing from the water almost con- stantly. Our mouths are watering most abundantly for some of them, but we arc not provided with suitable implements for NARRATIVB OF A JOVRNKT taking any, and must thorcforo depend for a supply on the In* dians, whom we hope soon to meet. , ' *(,.,.'(-, ,. We found, in the mountain passes, to-day, a considerable quantity of a small fruit called the choke-cherry, a species of prunus, growing on low bushes. When ripe, they are tolerable eating, somewhat astringent, however, producing upon the mouth the same effect, though in a less degree, as the unripe persimmon. They are now generally green, or we should feast luxuriantly upon them, and render more tolerable our miserable provision. Wo have seen, also, large patches of service bushes, but no fruit. It stems to have failed this year, although ordinarily so abundant that it constitutes a large portion of the vc^<. 'able food of both Indians and white trappers who visit these rcguas. •■"■ ./' ■ n AcnoM THIS ROUKY ilOUNTAINI, KtV. tf9 CHAPTER Vlll. J BubiUMi for garni, and a luxuriom hreakfant — Eipirlnllont nf a rcftnii, unil a lUinppolntmtnt— Visit nf a Smike cht<-J—hl» uhlmrenet t\f hortt tMitl—jl band qf Snake Indiani—their chief— Tvad$ with Indians fuv mlmun~Mr, Mhwnrth'i adventure— ^n Indian /mt*-thlej'—l'l»lt In the Snake ramp—lti Jillhinesi—Ji Banneck camp — Supereiliotm cimdurt nf the Jndiani—^irlvul at Snahe river— Equipment qf a trapping partji— Indian mode (if catching talmon — Lota qf a favorite horie—J'owder river— Cut rocki—Jiecovery of the loit trait— Grand Ronde— Captain JItmnevllle—hli fondmfii for a roving l(fe—Aayome and J\'ez I'ercS Jndiam—tlmlr aiipear. unce—M Indian beauty— Bhie mountains— Jl feline visit, August "ZOth.—kt about daylight this morning, having churge of tho last guard of the night, I observed a beautiful, Hlcck little ooU, of about four months old, trot into tho comp, winnowing with groat apparent pleasure, and dancing ond curvetting gaily amongHt our Hobcr and sedate band. I had no doubt that ho had strayed from Indians, who were probably in tho noighlwrhood; but ttH here, every animal that comes near us is fair game, and as we were hungry, not having eaten any thing of w)n«o(|uenco since yesterday morning, I thought the little stranger would make a good breakfast for us. Concluding, however, that it would Ikj lK!«t to act advisedly in the matter, I put my head into Captain W.'s tent, and telling him the news, mado the proposi- tion which had occurred to mc. The captain's ro|)ly was ^;n• cotiraging enough,—'* Down with him, if you please, Mr. T., it is tho Lord's doing; let us have him for breakfast." In five niinutcri a(\erwardH, a bullet sealed the fate of tho unlbrtunato visitor, and my men were set to work making fires, and rum* 17 130 NARRATIVE Of A JOURNKY maging out the loug-ncgloctod Htnw-pan.s, while 1 ongngwl myiiclf in flaying tho little nnimni, and cutting up his body in rcudinoas for the pots. When tho camp was aroused, about an hour nt\er, tho savory steom of tho cookery was rising and saluting tho nostrils of our hungry people with its fragrance, who, rubbing their hands with delight, sat themselves down upon tho ground, waiting with what patience they might, for the unexpected repast which waa preparing for thorn. It was to me almost equal to n good breakfast, to witness the pleasure and satisfaction which I had been tho means of diffusing through tho camp. Tho repast was ready at length, and we did full justice to it ; every man ate until he was filled, and all pronounced it one of the most delicious meals they had ever assisted in demolishing. When our breakfast was concluded, but little of the colt remained ; that little was, however, carefully packed up, and deposited on one of tho horses, to furnish, at least, a portion of another meal. Tho route, this morning, lay along Bois^e. For an hour, the travelling was toilsome and difficult, the Indian trail, leading along the high bank of the river, steep and rocky, making our progress very slow and laborious. We then camo to a wide plain, interrupted only by occasional high banks of earth, some of them of considerable extent, across which ran the path. To- wards mid-day, we lost sight of these banks, the whole country appearing level, with the exception of some distant hills in the south-west, which wo suppose indicate the vicinity of some part of Snake river. We have all been disappointed in tho distance to this river, and the length of time required to reach it. Not a man in our camp has ever travelled this route before, and all we have known about it has been the general course. AOROn T1IK ROCKY MOVNTAINI, ETC. In tho nflcrnoon, wo obsorvcii a number of Indiann on the oppo- sitn side )rtho river, engaged in fmhing for Hulnion. Captain W. and (Wo men immediately croHsed over to them, carrying with thom a few Bmall articles to exchange for fish. Wo congratu- lated ourselves upon our good furtnno in seeing thcso Indians, and were anticipating a plentiful meal, when Captain W. and his companions returned, bringing only three small salmon. The Indians had been unsuccessful in fishing, not having caught enough for themselves, and even the oiler of exorbitant sums was not Bufliciont to induce them to pari with more. In tho afternoon, a grouse and a beaver were killed, which, added to tho remains of tho colt, and our three little salmon, made us a tolerable supper. While wo were eating, wo wero visited by a Snake chief, a large and powerful man, of a peculiarly dignified aspect and manner. He was naked, with tho exception of a small bltinket which covered his shoulders, and descended to the middle of the back, being fastened around tho neck with a silver skewer. As it was pudding timo with us, our visitor was of course invited to sit and eat ; and he, nothing loath, deposited himself at once upon tho ground, and made a remarkably vigorous assault upon tho mixed contents of the dish. Ho had not eaten long, however, before we perceived a sudden and inex* plicable change in his countenance, which was instantly followed by a violent ejectment of a huge mouthful of our luxurious fare. The man rose slowly, and with great dignity, to his feet, and pro- nouncing the single word "aAcfcum," (horse,) in a tone of mingled anger and disgust, stalked rapidly out of tho camp, not even wishing us a good evening. , It struck me as a singular in- stance of accuracy and discrimination in the organs of taste. We had been eating of the multifarious compound without being able to recognise , by the taste, a single ingredient which it con- tained ; a stranger came among'st us, who did not know, when he I 132 narrative: of a jornwET commenced eating, that the dish was formed of more than one item, and yet in less than five minutes he discovered one of the very least of its component parts. It would seem from this circumstance that the Indians, or it may be the particular tribe to which this man belongs, arc opposed to the eating of horse flesh, and yet, the natural supposi- tion would be, that in the gamcless country inhabited by them they would often be reduced to such shifts, and thus readily conquer any natural reluctance which they might feel to partake of such U)od. I did not think until after he left us, that if the chief knew how the horse meat he so much detested was procured, and where, he might probably have expressed even more indignation, for it is not at all unlikely that the colt had strayed from his own band. 2lst. — The timber along the river banks is plentiful, and often attains a large size. It is chiefly of the species called balsam poplar, {Populus balsamifera.) Towards noon to-day, we observed ahead several groups of Indians, perhaps twenty in each, and on the appearance of our cavalcade, they manifested their joy at seeing us, by the most extravagant and grotesque gestures, dancing and capering most ludicrously. Every individual of them was perfectly naked, with the exception of a small thong around the waist, to which was attached a square piece of flannel, skin, or canvass, depending half way to the knees. Their stature was rather below the middle height, but they were strongly built and very muscular. Each man carried his salmon spear, and these, with the knives stuck in their girdles, appeared to be their only weapons, not one of them having a gun. As we neared them, the first group ran towards us, crying "Shoshone, Shoshon^," and caused some deloy by their eagerness to grasp our hands and examine otir garments. After one group had become satisfied with fingering ACR098 THE ROCKT MOUNTAINS, KTC. 133 U8, WO rodo on and sutFered the same process by the next, and io on until wo Imd passed the whole, every Indian crying with a loud voice, '• Tabiboo aant, tabiboo sunt /" (white man is good, white man is good.) In a short time the chief joined us, and our party stopped for an hour, and Imd a " talk" with him. He told us, in answer to our questions, tliat his people had fish, and would give them for our goods if wo would sleep one night near their camp, and smoke with them. No trade, of consequence, can ever be effected with Indians, unless the pipe be first smoked, and the matter calmly and seriously deliberated upon. An Indian chief would think his dignity soriously compromised if he were expected to do any thing in a hurry, much less so serious a matter as a salmon or hcavor trade ; and if we had refused his offered terms, ho would probably havo allowed us to pass on, and denied himself the darling rings, bells, and paint, rather than infringe a custom so long religiously practised by his people. We were therefore inclinod to humor our Snake friend, and accordingly came to a halt, on the bank of the river. The chief and several of his favored young braves sat with us on tho bank, and we smoked with them, the other Indians forming a largo circle around. Tho chief is a man rather above the ordinary height, with a fine, noblo countenance, and remarkably large, prominent eyes. His person, instead of being naked, as is usual, is clothed in a robo mode of the skin of the mountain sheep ; a broad band mniln of largo blue beads, is fastened to the top of his head, and hangs over on his cheeks, and around his neck is suspended the foot of n huge grizzly bear. The possession of this uncouth or- nament is considered among them, a great honor, since none but those whose prowess has enabled them to kill the animal, are al- lowed to wear it, and with their weak and inefficient weapons, 134 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY the destruction of so fierce and terrible a brute, is a feat that may well entitle them to some distinction. We remained two hours at the spot where we halted, and then passed on about four miles, accompanied by the chief and his people, to their camp, where we pitched our tents for the night. In a short time the Indians came to us in great numbers, with bundles of dried salmon in their arms, and a few recent ones. We commenced our trading immediately, giving them in exchange, fish-hooks, beads, knives, paint, &c., and before evening, had procuied sufficient provision for the consumption of our party until we arrive at the falls of Snake river, where we are told we shall meet the Bannecks, from whom we can doubtless trade a supply, which will serve us until we reach Walla-walla. While we were pursuing our trade, Richardson and Mr. Ash- worth rode into the camp, and I observed by the countenance of the latter, that something unusual had occurred. I felt very certain that no ordinary matter would be capable of ruffling this calm, intrepid, and almost fool-hardy young man ,* so it was with no little interest that I drew near, to listen to the tale which he told Captain W. with a face flushed with unusual anger, while his whole person seemed to swell with pride and disdain. He said that while riding about five miles behind the party, (not being able to keep up with it on account of his having a worn out horse,) he was attacked by about fifty of the Indians whom we passed earlier in the day, dragged forcibly from his horse and thrown upon the ground. Here, some held their knives to his throat to prevent his rising, and others robbed him of his saddle bags, and all that they contained. While he was yet in this unpleasant situation, Richardson came suddenly upon them, and the cowardly Indians releasee r captive instantly, throw- ing the saddle bags and every thing ie upon the ground, and flying like frightened antelopes over the plain. The only real damage that Mr. Ashworth sustained, was the total loss of his ACROSS THE ROCKY MOVNTAi'NS, ETC. 135 saddle bags, which were cut to pieces by the knives of the In- dians, in order to abstract the contents. These, however, we think he deserves to lose, inasmuch, as with all our persuasion, we have never been able to induce him to carry a gun since we left the country infested by the Blackfeet ; and to-day, the very show of such a weapon would undoubtedly have prevented the attack of which he complains. Richardson gives an amusing account of the deportment of our young English friend while he was lying under the knives his captors. The heavy whip of buffalo hide, which was his only weapon, was applied with great energy to the naked backs and shoulders of the Indians, who winced and stamped under the infliction, but still feared to use their knives, except to prevent his rising. Richardson, says-, that until he approached closely, the blows were descending in rapid succession, and our hunter was in some danger of losing his characteristic dignity in his efforts to repress a loud and hearty laugh at the extreme ludi- crousness of the whole scene. Captain W., when the circumstances of the assault were stated to him, gave an immediate order for the suspension of business, and calling the chief to him, told him seriously, that if an attempt were again made to interrupt any of his party on their march, the offenders should be tied to a tree and whipped severely. He enforced his language by gestures so expressive that none could misunderstand him, and he was answered by a low groan from the Indians present, and a submissive bowing of their heads. The chief appeared very much troubled, and harangued his peo- ple for considerable time on the subject, repeating what the cap- tain had said, with some additional remarks of his own, implying that even a worse fate than whipping would be the lot of future delinquents. 22d. — Last night during the second guard, while on my walk 186 NARKATIVE OP A JOURNEY around the camp, I observed one of my men squatted on the ground, intently surveying some object which appeared to be moving among the horses. At his request, I stooped also, and could distinctly perceive something near us which was cer- tainly not a horse, and yet was as certainly a living object. I supposed it to be either a bear or a wolf, and at the earnest solici- tation of the man, I gave the word " fire." The trigger was in- ' stantly pulled, the sparks flew from the flint, but the rifle was not exploded. At the sound, an Indian sprang from the grass where he had been crouching, and darted away towards the Snake camp. His object certainly was to appropriate one of our horses, and very fortunate for him was it that the gun missed fire, for the man was an unerring marksman. This little warning will probably check other similar attempts by these people. Early in the morning I strolled into the Snake camp. It con- sists of about thirty lodges or wigwams, formed generally of branches of trees tied together in a conic summit, and covered with buffalo, deer, or elk skins. Men and little children were lolling about the ground all around the wigwams, together with a heterogeneous assemblance of dogs, cats, some tamed prairie wolves, and other " vartnints.''* The dogs growled and snapped when I approached, the wolves cowered and looked cross, and the cats ran away and hid themselves in dark corners. They had not been accustomed to the face of a white man, and all the quadrupeds seemed to regard me as some monstrous produc- tion, more to be feared than loved or courted. This dislike, however, did not appear to extend to the bipeds, for many of every age and sex gathered around me, and seemed to be exam- ining me critically in all directions. The men looked compla- cently at me, the women, the dear creatures, smiled upon me, and the little naked, pot-bellied children crawled around my feet, examining the fashion of my hard shoes, and playing with the ACROSS TUB UOCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 137 long fringes of my leathern inexpressibles. But I scarcely know how to commence a description of the tout en semblc of the comp, or to frame a sentence which will give an adequate idea of the extreme tilth, and most horrific nastiness of the whole vicinity. I shall therefore but transiently glance at it, omitting many of the most disgusting and abominable features. Immediately as I entered the village, my olfactories were as- sailed by the most vile and mephitic odors, which I found to pro- ceed chiefly from great piles of salmon entrails and garbage which were lying festering and rotting in the sun, around the very doors of the habitations. Fish, recent and half dried, were scat- tered all over the ground, under the feet of the dogs, wolves and Indian children; and others which had been split, were hanging on rude platforms erected within the precincts of the camp. Some of the women were making their breakfast of the great red salmon eggs as large as peas, and using a wooden spoon to convey them to their mouths. Occasionally, also, by way of varying the repast, they would take a huge pinch of a drying fish which was lying on the ground near them. Many of the children were similarly employed, and the little imps would also have hard contests with the dogs for a favorite morsel, the former roaring and blubbering, the latter yelping and snarling, and both rolling over and over together upon the savory soil. The whole economy of the lodges, and the inside and outside appearance, was of a piece with every thing else about them — filthy beyond description — the very skins which covered the wigwams were black and stiff with rancid salmon fat, and the dresses, (if dresses they may be called) of the women, were of the same color and consistence, from the same cause. These dresses are little square pieces of deer skin, fastened with a thong around the loins, and reaching about half way to the knees ; the rest of the person is entirely naked. Some of the women had little children clinging like bull- frogs to their backs, without being fastened, and in that situation 18 138 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY extracting their lactiferous sustenance from the breast, which was tlirown over the shoulders. It is almost needless to say, that I did not remain long in the Snake camp; for although I had been a considerable time estranged from the abodes of luxury, and had become somewhat accustomed to, at least, a partial assimilation to a state of nature, yet I was not prepared for what I saw here. I never had fancied any thing so utterly abominable, and .was glad to escape to a purer and more wholesome atmosphere. When I returned to our camp, the trading was going on as briskly as yesterday. A large number of Indians were assembled around, all of whom had bundles of fish, which they were anxious to dispose of. The price of a dried salmon is a straight awl, and a small fish hook, value about one cent ; ten fish are given for a common butcher knife that costs eight cents. Some, however, will prefer beads, paint, &c., and of these articles, about an equal amount in value is given. A beaver skin can be had for a variety of little matters, which cost about twelve and a half cents ; value, in Boston, from eight to ten dollars ! Early in the afternoon, we repacked our bales of goods and rode out of the encampment, the Indians yelling an adieu to us as we passed them. We observed that one had wrapped a buffalo robe around him, taken a bow and arrows in his hand, and joined us as we went off. Although we travelled rapidly during the afternoon, the man kept with us without apparent over-exertion or fatigue, trotting along constantly for miles together. He is probably on a visit to a village of his people who are encamped on the " Big river." 23d. — Towards noon, to-day, we fell in with a village, con- sisting of thirty willow lodges of Bannecks. The Indians flocked out to us by hundreds, leiving their fishing, and every other employment, to visit the strangers. The chief soon made him- self known to us, and gave us a pressing invitation to stop a '¥ ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC mo short time with them, for the purpose of trade. Althougli wo had a good supply of fish on hand, and did not expect soon to suffer from want,' yet we knew not but we might be disappointed in procuring provision lower in the country, and concluded, therefore, to halt for half an hour, and make a small increase to our stock. We were in some hustc, and anxious to travel on as quickly as possible, to Snake river. Captain W., thorifore, urged the chief to have the fish brought immediately, as ho in- tended soon to leave them. The only reply he could obtain to this request, was " te sant,''^ (it is good,) accompanied by signs, that he wished to smoke. A pipe was provided, and ho, with about a dozen of his young men, formed a circle near, and con- tinued smoking, with great tranquillity, for half an hour. Our patience became almost exhausted, and they were told that if their fish were not soon produced, we should leave thom empty as we came ; to this, the only answer of the chief was a sign to us to remain still, while he deliberated yet farther upon the subject. We sat a short time longer in silent expectation, and wore thon preparing to mount our horses and be off, when sovoral squaws were despatched to one of the lodges. They returned in a few minutes, bringing about a dozen dried fish. These wore laid in small piles on the ground, and when the usual price wm offered for them, they refused it scornfully, making the most exorbitant demands. As our articles of trade were running low, and we were not in immediate want, we purchased only a suffi- ciency for one day, and prepared for our departure, leaving tho ground strewn with the neglected salmon. The Indians woro evidently very much irritated, as we could perceive by thoir angry countenances, and loud words of menace. Some loosed the bows from their shoulders, and shook them at us with vio- lent gestures of rage, and a boy, of seventeen or eighteen yooj'H of age, who stood near me, struck my horse on the head witli a 140 NARRATIVE OF A JOrRNEY stick, which he held in liis hand. This provoked me not a little; and spurring the animal a few steps forward, T brought my heavy whip several times over his naked shoulders, and sent him screeching into the midst of his people. Several bows were drawn at me for this act, and glad would the savages have been to have had me for a short time at their mercy, but as it was, they feared to let slip their orrows, and soon dropped their points, contenting themselves with vaporing away in all the im- potence of childish rage. As we rode off, they greeted us, not with the usual gay yell, but with a scornful, taunting laugh, that sounded like the rejoicings of an infernal jubilee. Had th&se people been provided with efficient arms, and the requisite amount of courage to use them, they might have given us some inconvenience. Towards evening, we arrived on Snake river, crossed it at a ford, and encamped near a number of lodges along the shore. Shortly afterwards, Captain W., with three men, visited the In- dians, carrying with them some small articles, to trade for fish. In cbout half an hour they returned, bringing only about ten salmon. They observed, among the Indians, the same disincli- nation to traffic that the others had manifested; or rather, like the first, they placed a higher value than usual upon the commodity, and wanted, in exchange, articles which we were not willing to spare them. They treated Captain VV. with the same inso- lence and contempt which was so irritating from those of the other village. This kind of conduct is said to be unusual among this tribe, but it is probably now occasioned by their having recently pur- chased a supply of small articles from Captain Bonneville, who, they inform us, has visited them within a few days. Being desirous to escape from the immediate vicinity of the village, we moved our camp about four miles further, and stopped for the night. ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, KTC. 141 24 tkMMlly cHUud by one of the liopeful gentry left in ctwrge of the fort, for llio |»ur> (KM of rendering tlie animal unable to travel, and as a conseijuence, conniilng liira (0 tho foi't at the time of our dbparture. The good (lualities oi the home ai a buf* falo racer, were imivcrsally known und appreciated, and 1 Imd reiicutcdiy rcfiiMd largo (Uiui for him, from those wlio dcsiivd him for this |Miriioite, Isfi 144 NABRATIVE OF A JOURNEY any way, nnd time is not allowed us to search the premiHos. Wo cuiinot oven question them concerning it, as our interpreter, McCurcy, left ua with the trapping party. Wo bought, of this family, a considerable quantity of dried choke-cherries, these being the only article of commerce which they possessed. This fruit they prepare by pounding it with stones, and drying it in masses in the sun. It is then good tasted, nnd somewhat nutritive, and it loses, by the process, tho wholo of tho astringcncy which is so disagreeable in tho recent fruit. Leaving tho valley, wo proceeded over some high and stony hills, keeping pretty nearly tho course of the creek. The tra- velling was, as usual in such places, dilhcult and laborious, and our progress necessarily slow and tedious. Throughout tho day, there was no change in tho character of the country, and tho i|tt consequence was, that three of our poor horses gave up nnd stopped. 27th. — This morning, two men were left nt the camp, for tho purpose of collecting and bringing on, moderately, the horses left yesterday, and others that may hereafter fail. We were obliged to leave ,vith them a stock of provision greater in proportion than our own rather limited allowance, and have thus somewhat diminished our chance of performing the remainder of the jour« ncy with satisfied appetites, but there is some small game to bo found on the route, grouse, ducks, &c., and occasionally a beaver may be taken, if our necessities are pressing. We made a noon camp on Brule, and stopped at night in a narrow valley, between the hills. 2Sth. — Towards noon to-day, we lost tho trail among the hills, and although considerable search was made, we were not able to find it again. We then directed our course due north, and at 2 o'clock struck Powder river, a narrow and shallow stream, plentifully fringed with willows. We passed down this ArnoSil TUB noCKV MOWNTAINS, FTC. H-i river for about fivo miles and cncnmpcd. Cnptain W. imme- diately IoH us to look for th«i lost trail, and returned in about two hours, with tho informa.ioi! that no trace of it could b« found. lie therefore concludes that it is up stream, and to-mor- row wo travel bock to search for it in thnt direction. Our men killed, in the afternoon, an antelo|)o and a dcftr fawn, which were particularly acceptable to UH ; wo had boon on an allowance of one dried salmon per day, and we had begun to fear that even this poor pittance would fail befoio wf ojiild obtain other provi- sion. Game has been exceedingly scarce, with tho exception of a few grouse, pigeons, &:c. VVo have not sotn a deer, antolo|K<, or any other quadruped larger than a hare, since wo left the confines of the buftulo country. Karly this morning, one of our men, named Hubbard, loft us to hunt, and as he has not joined us thi' evening, we fear he is lost, ond feel some onxicty about him, as he has not iKicn accustomed to finding his wuy through the pathless wilds. He is n good marksman, however, and will not suffer much for food; and as he knows the general course, he will probably join us at Waila-wolla, if we should not see him earlier. 2Qth. — We commenced our march early this morning, follow- ing the river to a point about six miles above where we struck it yesterday. VVo then took to the hills, steering N. N. VV., — it being impossible, from the broken state of the country, to keep the river bank. Soon after wc commenced the ascent, wo met with difficulties in the shape of high, steep, banks, and deep ravines, the ground being thickly strewed with sharp, angular masses of lava and ba- salt. As we proceedod, those difficulties increased to such a de- gree, as to occasion a fear that our horses could never proceed. The hills at length became like a consolidated mass of irregular rock, and the small strips of earthy matter that ocasionaliy ap- peared, were burst into wide fissures by the desiccation to which 19 146 NABRATIVE OF A JOURNEY the country at this season is subject. Sometimes, as we ap- proached the verges of the clifTs, we could see the river winding its devious course many hundred feet below, rushing and foam- ing in eddies and whirlpools, and fretting against the steep sides of the rocks, which hemmed it in. These are what are called the cut-rocks, the sides of which are in many places as smooth and regular as though they had been worked with the chisel, and the opening between them, through which the river flows, is fre- quently so narrow that a biscuit might be thrown across it. We travelled over these rocks until 1 o'clock in the day, when we stopped to rest in a small ravine, where we found a little water, and pasture for our horses. At 3, we were again on the move, making across the hills towards the river, and after a long, circuitous march, wc arrived on its banks, considerably wearied, and every horse in our band lamed and completely exhausted. We have not yet found any clue to the trail for which we have been searching so anxiously ; indeed it would be im- possible for a distinguishable trace to be left over these rugged, stony hills, and the difficulty of finding it, or determining its di- rection is not a little increased by a dense fog which constantly envelopes these regions, obscuring the sun, and rendering it im- possible to see an object many hundred yards in advance. The next day we were still travelling over the high and steep hills, which, fortunately for our poor horses, were far less stony than hitherto. At about noon we descended to the plain, and struck the river in the midst of a large level prairie. We proceeded up stream for an hour, and to our great joy suddenly came in sight of a broad, open trail stretching away to the S. W. "We felt, in some degree, the pleasure of a sailor who has found the port of which he has been long and anxiously in search. We made a noon camp here, at which we remained two hours, and then travelled on in fine spirits over a beautiful, level, and unobstructed country. Our horses seemed to participate in our ACROSS TUB BOCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 147 fucliiigs, and trotted on briskly, as though they too rcjo iced in thn opportunity of escaping the dreaded hills and rocks. To- wards evening we crossed a single range of low hills and came to a Hmall round prairie, with good water and excellent pasture. Here wo found a family of Kayouse Indians, and encamped witi.in bight of them. Two squaws from this family, visited us soon after, bringing some large kamas cakes and fermented roots, which wo purchased of them. 31«^ — Our route this morning, was over a country generally level and free from rocks ; we crossed, however, one short, and very steep mountain range, thickly covered with tall and heavy pino trees, and came to a large and beautiful prairie, calletl the Grand ronde. Here we found Captain Bonneville's company, which has been lying here several days, waiting the arrival of its trapping parties. We made a noon camp near it, and were visited by Captain Bonneville. This was the first time I had scon this gentleman. His manners were affable and pleasing, and he seemed possessed of a large share of bold, adventurous, and, to a certain extent, romantic spirit, without which no man can expect to thrive as a mountain leader. He stated that he preferred the " free and easy" life of a mountain hunter and trapper, to the comfortable and luxurious indolence of a dweller in civilized lands, and would not exchange his homely, but wholosome mountain fare, and his buffalo lodge, fo:: the most piquant dishes of the French artiste, and the finest palace in the land. This came well from him, and I was pleased with it, although 1 could not altogether agree with him in sentiment, for 1 confess I had become somewhat weary of rough travelling and rough faro, and looked forward with no little pleasure to a long rest under a Christian roof, and a general participation in Christian living. Witii the captain, came a whole troop of Indians, Kayouse, 148 NABUATIVE 01' A JOUItlVEY Nez Perces, &c. They were very friendly towards us, ctich of the chiefs taking us by the hand with great cordiality, appearing pleased to see us, and anxious to point out to us the easiest and most expeditious route to the lower country. These Indians are, almost universally, fine looking, robust men, with strong aqualine features, and a much more cheerful cast of countenance than is usual amongst the race. Some of the women might almost be called beautiful, and none that I have seen are homely. Their dresses are generally of thin deer or antelope skin, with occa- sionally a boddice of some linen stuffs, purchased from the whites, and their whole appearance is neat and cleanly, forming a very striking contrast to the greasy, filthy, and disgusting Snake females. I observed one young and very pretty looking woraan> dressed in a great superabundance of finery, glittering with rings and beads, and flaunting in broad bands of scarlet cloth. She was mounted astride, — Indian fashion, — upon a fine bay horse, whose head and tail were decorated with scarlet and blue ribbons, and the saddle, upon which the fair one sat, was ornamented all over with beads and little hawk's bells. This damsel did not do us the honor to dismount, but seemed to keep warily aloof, as though she feared that some of us might be inordinately fascinated by her fine person and splendid equipments, and her whole de- portment proved to us, pretty satisfactorily, that she was no common beauty, but the favored companion of one high in ofiice, who was jealous of her slightest movement. Afler making a hasty meal, and bidding adieu to the captain, and our friendly Indian visitors, we mounted our horses, and rode v-flT. About half an hour's brisk trotting brought us to the foot of a steep and high mountain, called the Blue. This is said to be the most extensive chain west of the dividing ridge, and, with one exception, perhaps the most difficult of passag ;_ The whole mountain is densely covered with tall pine trees, with I ACROSS THE noCKV MOUNTAINS, ETC. U9 b of ring and are, iline n is t be heir cca- the iga lake aan> ings She »rse, ons, all tdo ', as ited de- no ice, lin, ind the is ge. £■'. ith an undergrowth of service bushes and other shrubs, and the path is strewed, to a very inconvenient degree, with volcanic rocks. In some of the ravines we find small springs of water; they are, however, rather rare, and the grass has been lately consumed, and many of the trees blasted by the ravaging fires of the In- dians. These fires are yet smouldering, and the smoke from them effectually prevents our viewing the surrounding country, and completely obscures the beams of the sun. We travelled this evening until after dark, and encamped on a small stream in a gorge, where we found a plot of grass that had escaped the burning. September 1st. — Last evening, as we were about retiring to our beds, we heard, distinctly, as we thought, a loud halloo, several times repeated, and in a tone like that of a man in great distress. Supposing it to be a person who had lost his way in the darkness, and was searching for us, we fired several guns at regular intervals, but as they elicited no reply, after waiting a considerable time, we built a large fire, as a guide, and lay down to sleep. Early this morning, a large panther was seen prowling around our camp, and the hallooing of last night was explained. It was the dismal, distressing yell by which this animal entices its prey, until pity or curiosity induces it to approach to its destruction. The panther is said to inhabit these forests in considerable num- bers, and has not unfrequently been known to kill the horses of a camp. He has seldom the temerity to attack a man, unless sorely pressed by hunger, or infuriated by wounds. \^1 150 NARRATIVE OF A JOVRNEV CHAPTER IX. Passage of the Blue Mountains— Sufferings from thirst — Utalla river — A transformation — A novel meal— Walla-waltu river — Columbia river and Fort Walla-walla — A dinner with the missionaries — Anecdote of Mr. Lee— A noble repast — Britf notice of the Fort — Departure qf the missionanes—JVotice of the Walla-walla Indians — Departure for Fort Vancouver — Wild ducks — Indian graves — Indian horses — Visits from Indians — Ophthalmia, aprevalent disease — Rough travelling — A company of Chinook Indians — The Dalles— The party joined by Captain Wyeth — Embarkation in canoes — A heavy gale— Dangerous navigation — Pusillanimous conduct of an Indian helms- man — A zealous botanist — Departure of Captain JVyeth with five me7i — Cascades — A jjortage—Jlteeting tvilh the missionaries — Loss of a canoe — A toilsome duty — Arrival at Fort Vancouver —reflections suggested by it — Dr. John McLaughlin, the chief factor — Domiciliation of the travellers at Fort Vancouver. September 1st. — The path through the valley, in which we encamped last night, was level and smooth for about a mile; we then mounted a short, steep hill, and began immediately to descend. The road down the mountain wound constantly, and we travelled in short, zig-zag lines, in order to avoid the extremely abrupt decli- vities; but occasionally, we were compelled to descend in places that made us pause before making the attempt : they were, some of them, almost perpendicular, and our horses would frequently slide several yards, before they could recover. To this must be added cnoi'mous jagged masses of rock, obstructing the road in many places, and pine trees projecting their horizontal branches across the path. The road continued, as I have described it, to the valley in the plain, and a full hour was consumed before we reached it. ACROSS THE ROCKT MOUNTAINS, KTC. 151 The country then became comparatively level again to the next range, where a mountain was to be ascended of the same height as the last. Here we dismounted and led our horses, it being impracticable, in their present state, to ride them. It was the most toilsome march I ever made, and we were all so much fatigued, when we arrived at the summit, that rest was as indispensable to us as to our poor jaded horses. Here we made a noon camp, with a handful of grass and no water. This last article appears very scarce, the ravines affording none, and our dried salmon and kamas bread were eaten unmoistcned. The route, in the after- noon, was over the top of the mountain, the road tolerably level, but crowded with stones. Towards evening, we commenced descending again, and in every ravine and gulley we cast our anxious eyes in search of water ; we even explored several of them, where there appeared to exist any probability of success, but not one drop did we find. Night at length came on, dark and pitchy, without a moon or a single star to give us a ray of light; but still we proceeded, depending solely upon the vision and sagacity of our horses to keep the track. We travelled steadily until about 9 o'clock, when we saw ahead the dark out- line of a high mountain, and soon after heard the men who rode in front, cry out, joyously, at the top of their voices, "water/ water!" It was truly a cheering sound, and the words were echoed loudly by every man in the company. We had not tasted water since morning, and both horses and men have been suffering considerably for the want of it. 2d. — Captain W. and two men, left us early this morning for Walla-walla, where they expect to arrive this evening, and send us some provision, of which we shall be in need, to-morrow. Our camp moved soon after, under the direction of Captain Thing, and in about four miles reached Utalla river, where it stopped, and remained until 12 o'clock. As we were approaching so near the abode of those in whose ,1 152 NAHKATIVE OF A JOUHNF.Y eyes \vc wished to appear like fellow Christians, wc concluded that there would be a propriety in attempting to remove at least one of the heathenish badges which we had worn throughout the journey; so Mr. N.'s razor was fished out from its hiding place in the bottom of his trunk, and in a few minutes our encumbered chins lost their long-cherished ornaments ; we performed our ablutions in the river, arrayed ourciclves in clean linen, trimmed our long hair, and then arranged our toilet before a mirror, with great self-complacence and satisfaction. I admired my own appearance considerably, (and this is, probably, an acknowledge- ment that few would make,) but I could not refrain from laugh- ing at the strange, party-colored appearance of my physiognomy, the lower portion being fair, like a woman's, and the upper, brown and swarthy as an Indian. < Having nothing prepared for dinner to-day, I strolled along the stream above the camp, and made a meal on rose buds, of which I collected an abundance ; and on returning, I was sur- prised to find Mr. N. and Captain T. picking the last boacs of a bird which they had cooked. Upon inquiry, I ascertained that the subject was an unfortunate owl which I had killed in the morning, and had intended to preserve, as a specimen. The temptation was too great to be resisted by the hungry Captain and naturalist, and the bird of wisdom lost the immortality which he might otherwise have acquired. In the afternoon, soon after leaving the Utalla, we ascended a high and very steep hill, and came immediately in view of a beautiful, and regularly undulating country of great extent. We have now probably done with high, rugged mountains; the sun shines clear, the air is bracing and elastic, and we are all in fine spirits. . • The next day, the road being generally level, and tolerably free from stones, we were enabled to keep our horses at the swiftest gate to which we dare urj^e them. We have been some- n ACROSS THE ROCKY MOVMTAIMd, UTO. 188 what disappointod in not receiving tho ox|)ectud suppliciH i'roiri Walla-walla, but have not sufTercd for provision, oh thii gruuMO and hares are very abundant here, and we havQ whot M uiUliy as we wished. At alKJut r' 'e struck tho Walla-walla river, a very protty strcan fifty' xty yards in width, 1 uv,;r. v/ith tall wiIIown, and containing a number of salmon, which we can seo froquontly leaping from the water. The pasture here, being good, wo til- lowed our horses an hour's rest to feed, and then travollod on over the plain, until near dark, when, on rising a Niindy hill, the noble Columbia burst at once upon our view. I could scarcely repress a loud exclamation of delight and plfjasuru, n» I gazed upon the magnificent river, flowing silently and n)fij»ii(ti* cally on, and reflected that I had actually crossed tho vost Ame- rican continent, and now stood upon a stream that poured its waters directly into the Pacific. This, then, was the groat Ore- gon, the first appearance of which gave Lewis ond Cliirk no many emotions of joy and pleasure, and on this stream our in- defatigable countrymen wintered, after the toils and prIvutionN of a long, and protracted journey through the wilderness. My re- verie was suddenly interrupted by one of the men oxelailiiillg from his position in advance, " there is the fort." Wo had, in truth approached very near, without being conscious of it. There stood the fort on the bank of the river; horses and horned cattle were roaming about the vicinity, and on the borderN of tho little Walla-walla, we recognised the white tent of our long lost missionaries. These we soon joined, and were met and received by them like brethren. Mr..N. and myself were invited to Hiip with thom upon a dish of stewed hares which they had juwt pre- pared, and it is almost needless to say that we did ftjll justice to the good men's cookery. They told us that they had travelled comfortably from Fort Hall, without any unusual fatigue, ond like ourselves, had no particularly stirring adventures. Their 20 154 NARRATIVE OP A JOIIRNKY route, although somcwJmt longer, was a much less toilsome and difficult one, and they suffered but lif'a for food, being well pro- vided with dried bulT "o meat, which had been prepared near Fort Hall. Mr. Walker, (a young gentleman attached to the band,) re- lated an anecdote of Mr. Loc, the principal, which I thought eminently characteristic. The missionaries were, on one occa- sion, at a considerable distance behind the main body, and had stopped for a few moments to regale themselves on a cup of milk from a cow which they weie driving. Mr. L. had unstrapped the tin pan from his saddle, and was about applying himself to the task, when a band of a dozen Indians was descried at a dis- tance, approaching the little party at full gallop. There was but little time for consideration. The rifles were looked to, the horses were mounted in eager haste, and all were ready for a long run, except Mr. Leo himself, who declared that nothing should deprive Mm of his cup of milk, and that he meant to " lighten the . sow before he moved." He accordingly pro- ceeded coolly tu fill his tin pan, and, ailer a hearty drink, grasped his rifle, and mounted his horse, at the very moment that the Indians had arrived to within speaking distance. To the great relief of most of the party, these proved to be of the friendly Nez Perce tribe, and after a cordial greeting, they tra- velled on together. '' The missionaries informed us that they had engaged a large barge to convey themselves and baggage to Fort Vancouver, and that Captain Stewart and Mr. Ashworth were to be of the party. Mr. N. and myself were very anxious to take a scat with them, but to our disappointment, were told that the boat would scarcely accommodate those already engaged. We had therefore to re- linquish it, and prepare for a journey on horseback to the Dalles, about eighty miles below, to which place Captain W. would ACROSS THE ROCKV MOrNTAII»S, RTC. iflr. precede H8 in the barge, aiid engage canoes to convey us to the lower fort. This evening, we purchased a large bag of Indian meal, of which we made a kettle of mush, and mixed with it a con- siderable quantity of horse tallow and salt. This was, I think, one of the best meals I ever made. We all ate heartily of it, and pronounced it princely food. We had been long without bread stuff of any kind, and the coarsest farinaceous substance, with a proper allowuncc of grease, would have been highly prized. The next morning, we visited Walla-walla Fort, and were introduced, by Captain W., to Lieutenant Pierre S. Pambrun, the superintendent. Wyeth and Mr. Pambrun had met before, and were well acquainted ; they had, therefore, many reminis- cences of by-gone days to recount, and long conversations, rela- tive to the variety of incidents which had occurred to each, since last they parted. The fort is built of drift logs, and surrounded by a stoccadc of the same, with two bastions, and a gallery around the inside. It stands about a hundred yards from the river, on the south bank, in a bleak and unprotected situation, surrounded on every side by a great, sandy plain, which supports little vegetation, except the wormwood and thorn-bushes. On the banks of the little river, however, there are narrow strips of rich soil, and here Mr. Pambrun raises the few garden vegetables necessary for the support of hifi family. Potatoes, turnips, carrots, &,c., thrive well, and Indian corn produces eighty bushels to the acre. At about 10 o'clock, the barge got under way, and soon after, our company with its baggage, crossed the river in canoes, and encamped on the opposite shore. There is a considerable number of Indians rcf^ident hero, Kayouse's and a collateral band of the same tribe, called Walla- % 3 "-is: 156 NARRATIVE OF A J0UR1VRT wallas. They live olong the bank of the rivor, in shantys or wigwoms of drift wood, covered with buffalo or deer skins. They are a miserable, squalid looking people, are constantly lolling around and in the f >rt, and annoy visitors by the impor- tunate manner in which they endeavor to force them into some petty trade for a pipe, a bare, or a grouse. All the industrious and enterprising men of this tribe are away trading salmon, kamas root, &c. to the mountain companies. 'i Notwithstanding the truly wretched plight in which these poor people live, and the privations which they must necessarily have to suffer, they are said to be remarkably honest and upright in their dealings, and generally correct in their moral deportment. Although they doubtless have the acquisitive qualities so characteristic of the race, they are rarely known to violate the principles of common honesty. A man may leave his tent unguarded, and richly stored with every thing which ordinarily excites the cupidity of the Indian, yet, on returning allcr a long absence, he may find all safe. What a commentary is this on the habits and conduct of our Christian communities! The river is here about three-fourths of a mile in width, — a clear, deep, and rapid stream, tlie current being generally from three to four miles an liour. It is the noblest looking river I have seen since leaving our Delaware. The banks arc in many places high and rocky, occasionally interrupted by broad, level sandy beaches. The only vegetation along the margin, is the wormwood, and other low, arid plants, but some of the bottoms are covered with heavy, rank grass, affording excellent pasture for horses. 5th. — This morning we commenced our march down the Colum- bia. We have no provision with us except flour and horse tallow, but wo have little doubt of meeting Indians daily, with whom we can trade for fish. "Our road will now bo a rather monotonous one AC'RORB THE HOCKV MOUWTAIUM, KtC. ir,7 along tho bnnk of the river, tolerably Invul, l»iit often rotidious cloanlinuHij appears to bo observed ; tho women moy bo seen sweeping tho Btreett* and scrubbing tho door-sills ns n^guliirly as in our own proverbially cleanly city.* Sunday, September '2!ith. — Divine servico was performed in the fort this morning by Mr. Jason Lee. This gentleman und his nephew had been absent some days in search of a suitublo place to establish themselves, in order to fuUil the object of their mission. They returned yestcrdny, and intend leaving us to> morrow with their suite for the station selected, which is upon tho Wallammet river, about sixty miles south of tho fort. In the evening wo were gratified by tho arrival of Captain Wyeth from below, who informed us that tho brig from Boston, which was sent out by the company to which Wyeth is attached, had entered tho river, and was anchored about twenty miles below, at a spot called Warrior's point,, near tho western entrance of tho Wallammet. Captain W. mentioned his intention to visit the Wallammet country, and seek out a convenient location for a fort which he wishes to establish without delay, and Mr. N. and myself accept- ed an invitation to accompany him in the morning. Ho has brought with him one of the brig's boats, and eight oarsmen, five of whom are Sandwich Islanders. Wo have experienced for several days past, gloomy, lowering, and showery weather; indeed the sun has scorcely been seen for * I have given this notice of the suburbs of the fort, as I find it in my journHl written Ht the time; I Iwd reason, subsequently, to change my oitinion with regard tu the scrupulous cleanliness of the Canadians' Indian wives, and particularly after inspecting the internal economy of the dwellings. What at first struck me as neat and clean, by an involuntary comparison of it with the extreme filthiness to which I had been accustomed amongst the Indians, soon revealed itself in its proper light, and I can freely confess that my first estimate mhs too high. i ACRUaS TIIK KOCKV MOUNTAINS, KTC. 173 a wook priNt. ThiM is aaiil tu iiitlicatc tlio nriur a|i|>ronch of thu rftiny HoaHon, which usually wts in about the middlu of Octolwr, or even earlier. After this time, until December, third the brig, and pursuing with considerable success our scie-.tific researches through the neighborhood. I have shot and prepar<^d here several new ipecies of birds, and two or three uudescribed quadrupeds, boi^'es procuring a considerable numlur, which, though known to naturalists, are rare, and therefore valuable. My companion is of cc.se in his element ; the fores, ^ the plain, the rocky hill, and the mossy bank >ield him a rich and most abundant supply. ii8 ■y ^4- I' :i n \ ,■ 178 NAKRATIVE OF A JOURNET We are visited daily by considerable numbers of Chinook and Klikatat Indians, many of whom bring us provisions of various kinds, salmon, deer, ducks, &c., and receive in return, powder and shot, knives, paint, and Indian rum, i. e. rum and water in the propoition of one part of the former to two of the latter. Some of these Indians would be handsome were it not for the abominable practice, which, as I have said, is almost universal amongst them, of destroying the form of the head. The features of many arc regular, though often devoid of expres- sion, and the persons of the men generally are rather symme- trical ; their stature is low, with light sinewy limbs, and remark- ably small delicate hands. The women are usually more rotund, and, in some instances, even approach obesity. The principal clothing worn by them is a sort of short petticoat made of strans of pine bark or twisted hempen strings, tied around the loins like a marro. This article they call a kalaquarte; and is often tlieir only dress ; some, however, cover the shoulders with a blanket, or robe made of muskrat or hare skins sewed together. A disease of a very fatal character iw prevalent among these Indians ; many of them have died of it; even some of those in the neighborhood of the fort, where medical assistance was always at hand. The symptoms are a general coldness, soreness and stiffness of the limbs and body, with violent tertian ague. Its fatal termination is attributable to its tendency to attack the liver, which is generally affected in a few days after the first symptoms are developed. Several of the white people attached to the fort have been ill with it, but no dr^aths have oc- curred amongst them, the disease in their case having yielded to the simple tonic remedies usually employed at home. This I have no doubt would be equally the case with the Inilians, were they ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 179 willing to submit to proper restrictions during the time of admi- nistering medicine. Captain Lambert informs me that on his first landing here the Indians studiously avoided his vessel, and all kind of intercourse with his crew, from the supposition, (which they have since ac- knowledged) that the malady wh'ch they dread so much was thus conveyed. As in a short time it became desirable, on account of procuring supplies of provision, to remove this impression, some pains were taken to convince the Indians of their error, and they soon visited the ship without fear. Mr. N. and myself have been anxious to escape the wet and disagreeable winter of this region, and visit some other portion of the country, where the inclemency of the season will not inter- fere with the prosecution of our respective pursuits. After some reflection and consultation, we concluded to take passage in the brig, which will sail in a few weeks for the Sandwich Islands. We shall remain there about three months, and return to the river in time to commence our peregrinations in the spring. 23d. — At Fort Vancouver. A letter was received yesterday by Dr. McLoughlin, from Captain Wyeth, dated Walla-walla, stating that the twelve Sandwich Islanders whom he took with him a week since for a journty to Fort Hall, had deserted, each taking a horse. They had no doubt heard from some of their countrymen, whom they met at the fort, of the difficulties of the route before them, which were probably very much exaggerated. Captain W. is on the alert to find them, and is sending men on their trail in every direction, but it is more than probable that they will not be overtaken, and the consequence will then be, that the expedition must be abandoned, and the captain return to the fort to spend the winter. December 3d, — Yesterday Mr. N. and myself went down the river to the brig, and this morning early the vessel left her m^ U'i ■ 180 NARRATIVE OF A JOVRNEV m \-< I I moorings, and with her sails unloosed stood out into the channel way. The weather was overcast, and we had but little wind, so that our progress during the morning was necessarily slow. In the afternoon we ran aground in one and a half fathoms water, but as the tide was low, we were enabled to get her clear in the evening. The navigation of this river is particularly diflncult in consequence of numerous shoals and sand bars, and good pilots are scarce, the Indians alone officiating in that capacity. To- wards noon the next dny, a K r alitsk Indian with but one eye, who said his name was George, boarded n<«, and showed a letter which he carried, written by Captain McNeall, in the Hudson's Bay service, recommending said Gn/ige as a capable and expe- rienced pilot. We accepted his sfirvices gladly, and made a bar- gain with hiiri to take us into Baker's bay near the cape, for four bottles of rum; with the understanding, however, that every time the brig ran aground, one bottle of the precious liquor was to be forfeited. George agreed to tlic terms, and taking his station at the bow, gave his orders to the man at the wheel like one having authority, pointing with his finger when he wished a de- viation from the common course, and pronouncing in a loud voice the single word ooikook, (here.) On the afternoon of the 4th, we passed along a bold precipi- tous shore, near which we observed a large isolated rock, and on it a great number of canoes, deposited above the reach of the tides. This spot is called Mount Coffin, and the canoes contain the dead bodies of Indians. They are carefully wrapped in filtnket i and all the personal property of the deceased, bows and arrows, guns, salmon spears, ornaments, &c., are placod within, •iiiJ around his canoe. The vicinity of this, and all other ccnio- teries, is held so sacred by the Indians, that they never approach it, except to make similar deposites ; they will often even travel a considerable distance out of their course, in order to avoid in- truding upon the sanctuary of their dead. ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, BTC. 161 We came to anchor near this rock in the evening, and Cnptiiiii Lambert, Mr. N., and myself visited the tombs. Wti were oh|M). daily careful not to touch or disarrange any of tlio fubricM, mid it was well we were so, lor as we turned to leave the plinui, wo found that we had been narrowly watched by about twenty In* dians, whom we had not seen when we landed from our boat. After we embarked, wo observed an old withered crono with a long stick or wand in her hand, who approached, and walked over the ground which we had defiled with our Hftcrilo/^ioun tread, waving hor enchanted rod over the mouldering bonem, un if to purify the atmosphere around, and exorcise the ovil MpiritN which we had called up. I have been very anxious to procure the skulls of somfl of these Indians, and should have been willing, so fur m I itlono was concerned, to encounter some risk to effect ray object, but I have refrained on account of the difficulty in which the nhip niid crew would be involved, if the sacrilege should bo diHcoverod ; a prejudice might thus bo excited against our little colony which would not soon be overcome, and might prove a MuriuUH injury. 6th. — The weather is almost constantly rainy and s(|iially, making it unpleasant to be on deck ; we are therefore conlinod closely to the cabin, and are anxious to get out to soa aw Hoon u« possible, if only to escape this. In the afternoon, the captain and myself went UNlioro in llio long-boat, and visited several Indian houses upon the lieuth. These arc built of roughly hewn boards and logs, usually covered with pine bark, or niaUing of their own manufiicturo, and open ijt the top, to allow the smoke to escape. In one of thuso hounex we found men, women, and children, to the nunibc^r uf fifty-two, seated as usual, upon the ground, around numerous firen, the smoke from which tilled every cranny oa the buililing, and to iin was almost stifling, although the Indians did nut. appear to «u(ler 182 NAKRATIVB OF A JOVRNEY any inconvenience from it. Although living in a state of the most abject poverty, deprived of most of the absolute necessaries of life, and frequently enduring the pangs of protracted starva- tion, yet these poor people appear happy and contented. They are scarcely qualified to enjoy the common comforts of life, oven if their indolence did not prevent the attempt to procure them. On the aflernoon of the 8th, wo anchored off Fort George, as it is called, although perhaps it scarcely deserves the name of a fort, being composed of but one principal house of hewn boards, and a number of small Indian huts surrounding it, presenting the appearance, from a distance, of an ordinary small farm house with its appropriate outbuildings. There is but one white man residing here, the superintendent of the fort ; but there is probably no necessity for more, as the business done is not very consider- able, most of the furs being taken by the Indians to Vancouver. The establishment is, however, of importance, independent of its utility as a trading post, as it is situated within view of the dangerous cape, and intelligence of the arrival of vessels can be communicated to the authorities at Vancouver in time for them to render adequate assistance to such vessels by supplying them with pilots, &c. This is the spot where once stood the fort established by the direction of our honored countryman, John Jacob Astor. One of the chimneys of old Fort Astoria is still standing, a melancholy monument of American enterprise and domestic misrule. The spot whore once the fine parterre over- looked tho river, and the bold stoccndc enclosed the neat and substantial fort, is now overgrown with weeds and bushes, and can scarce be distinguished from the primeval forest which surrounds it on every side. Captain Lambert, Mr. N. and myself visitoinion which I had long since formed, that nothing but the intro- duction of civilization, with its good nd whoiesomo "nws, can ever render the Indian of service to himself, or raise him from the state of wretchedness which has so long characterized his expiring race. The next morning, wo ran down into Baker's bay, and anchored within gunshot of the cape, when Captain Lambert and my- self went on shore in the boat, to cxomino the channel, and decide upon the prospect of getting out to sea. This passage is a very dangerous one, and is with reason dreaded by mariners. A wide bar of sand extends from Cape Disappointment to the opposite shore, — cailrd Point Adams, — and with the exception of a space, comprehending about half a mile, the sea at all times breaks furiously, the surges dashing to the height of the mast head of a ship, and with the most terrific roaring. Sometimes the water in the channel is agitated equally with that which covers the whole length of the bar, and it is then a matter of imminent risk to attempt a passage. Vessels have occasion- ally been compelled to lie in under the cape for several weeks, in momentary expectation of the subsidence of the dangerous breakers, and they have not unfrequenily been required to stand off shore, from without, until the crews have suffered ex- tremely for food and water. This circumstance must ever form a barrier to a permanent settlement here ; the sands, which com- pose the bar, are constantly shifting, and changing the course nnd depth of the channel, so that none but the small coasting vessels in the service of the company can, with much safety, pass back and forth. Mr. N. and myself visited the sea beach, outside the cape, in the hope of finding jieculiar marine shells, but although we ACROSS THE BOOKY MOimTAINN, RTO. mn in wo nnarchod assiduously during tho morning, m< liud hut littln sue- cflss. We saw sovoral deer in tho thick Ibn-Ht nn tho sido of the fopo, and a groat number of black shags, or cormoruntii, flying over tho breakers, and resting upon Ihn surr-wiiMh(ul rocks. On the morning of tho 11th, Mr. Hanson, tho mato, roturned \:^ , pi^ from the shore, and reported thut tho ehnnnul was smooth ; it ' wns thererore deemed safe to ., 'cmpt tho piiKmigo immediately. While wo were weighing our ui ' ^>r, wo dcsi rind n brig steering towards us, which soon crosHi bar, and rnn up to within speaking distance. It wns ono <>i tho (IiiiJHon*)! Huy (d us that the brig lcf\ Naas about the firnt of Octolxtr, but had ))ren delayed I by contrary winds, and rough, boisterous weather. Thus the • voyage which usually requires but about eight days for its perform* ancc, occupied upwards of two monthii. Thoy had been on an allowance of a pint of water per day, and had Nutfered considerably for fresh provision. Mr. Ogdcn remained with us but a short time, and wc stood out past the cape. When wc entered the channel, the water which had before been so smooth, became suddenly very much agitated, swelling, and roaring, and foaming around us, as if tho surges were up- heaved from the very bottom, and as our vossol would fall in the trough of the sea, pitching down like a huge leviathan seeking its native depths, I could not but feel positive, that tho enormous wave, which hung like a judgment over our heads, wotild inevita- bly engulph us ; but the good ship, liko a crcaturo instinct with life, as though she knew her danger, gallantly rose upon it, and but dipped her bows into its crest, as if in scorn of its mighty and irresistible power. This is my first sea voyage, and every thing upon the great deep is of course novel and interesting to me. During the scene which I have just described, although I was 24 W K ^ -> IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) v ^.^ ^' ^jM ^ 1.0 I.I LiM2A |2£ 12.2 m Hi 110 ME [1.25 IJ4 ill'-* ^ 6" - ► 6> ^>*"' ■* HiotQgraphic Sciences Corporalion 23 WIST MAIN STRKT WHSTiR.N.Y. 14580 (716) •73-4S03 \ iV 4 ^ N> ^V ;\ ^ 4^. ,v*^ ^ <^ 6^ '^ '4(!^ IM ITARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY awftre of our imminent peril, and the tales that I had frequently heard of vemels perishing in this very spot, and in precisely such a M8t recurred to my mind with some force, yet I could not but 1^1 a kind of secret and wild joy at finding myself in a situation of lueh awAil and magnificent grandeur. I thought of the lines of Shelley, and repeated them to myself in a kind of ecstasy. '' And see'st thou, and hear'st thou, And fear'st thou, and fear'st thou, And ride we not free OVr the terrible sea, 1 and thou ?" In about twenty minutes we had escaped all the danger, and found ouraelves riding easily in a beautiful placid sea. We &et the lalls, which had been shortened on the bar, and the gallant ve»asl feeling the impulse of the wind, rushed ahead as if exulting in the victory she had achieved. We iaW| outside the bar, a great number of birds, of various kind»— ducks of several species, two or three kinds of guillemots, (CTria,)— shags, (Phalacrocorax,) among which was a splendid new ipeeieSf* brown albatross, (Diomedea fusca,) the common duiky pelican, {P. fuacvs,) and numerous Procellaria, — also, the beautiful marine animal, called Medusa. It is a cartilagi- noui or gummy substance, flatfish, and about the size of a man's hand, with a tube projecting from it, expanded or flared out like the end of a clarionet. Within the body, near the posterior part is a large ovate ball, of a bright orange color, resembling the yolk of an egg. 14 pect before me, little dreaming, that after all he had endured, he should here be sacrificed by the very people to whom ho hoped to prove a benefactor and friend. The noise and bustle on deck, sailors running to and fro making the ship " snug" for harbor, and all the preparations for an arrival, effectually banished my meditations, and I descended to my state room, to sleep away the tedious hours, 'till the morrow should reveal all the new and strange features of the land to which we had come. hh ACR08I THR ROOXV MOVNTAINt, MTO. 191 CHAPTER XI. Jtmoruru—JVative canoet—Jmphlbtinu haUti—Caplain Charlton, hii Brilanie Mt^e$ty'$ cotuul—Mr, Jonu, thi Am»rlean eemul-^teepUon by hlm—Dn- eripUm of the town, and tf tht nativei—J'arly-eolortd hair iifthe wmun— The pagoda— A vintfrom Rev. Niram Mingham, the mt»iinnar]f'-Optniont regarding tht mieilonary fraternity— Firil vlnn of the Mng, ITatHkeaouH— his train — Seaman's chapel~Ji visit to the native ehureh—Klnau and Xektf anoa — Orderly conduct qf the natives during worship— Introduction to the king— His fondness for the chase,andatUetle exerelsu—Mulve food— Man- ner tity of wateft and set aside for several days to ferment, when it becomsi abeut of the consistence of paper hanger's paste. ThiHf with fi»h, either raw or baked, constitutes almost the sole food of the eommon people. Give a Sandwich Islander plenty of poe, with a raw fltth or two, at each meal, and he asks for nothing more ; deprive him of his dear loved sour paste, and he loses his iipirlts, and \n mitterablo. I have seen this strikingly shown in the mm of the Islanders at the Columbia. The poor Kanakas tried their utmest to manufacture o sort of poe — sweet potatoes, Irish potatoei) and even wappatoos, were operated upon, but all to no purpoie | and when our brig left the river, their farewell's to ui were mingled with desires loudly expressed, that on our return, we weuld bring them each a calabash of poe. The manner in which an islander takes his food is primitive to the lait degree. He seats himself cross-legged upon the ground with hii eulabash before him, and a fish and a little pile of salt on a wooden dish by his side. His two first fingers are immeriied in the paste, and stirred round several times until enough adheres to eoat them thickly, when they are carried by a quick motion to the mouth, which is open to receive them, and are aucked elean— a little pinch with the fingers is then taken of the fiah whieh io perhaps floundering beside him, followed by a Bimilar pineh of ialt, to season the whole repast. Thep.'inelpal beauty of the islanders, in their own estimation, con- sists in their being enormously fat, some of them weighing upwards of three hundred pounds, and measures are consequently resorted to, that will lueceilAjlly ond expeditiously produce this much desired result. With this view, the chiefs take but little exercise, and eat enormouily of the nutritive paste before spoken of. After they have atufTod as much as their stomachs will contain, -If IVARRATIVB OF A JOURNEY without the risk of positive suffocation, they roll over on their bocks upon the ground, grunting like huge swine, when two attendants approach and place themselves on each side of the patient. One wields a kahili, or feather fly brush, to cool his mastor, and keep off the mosquetoes, while the other commences his operations by punching his fist violently into the stomach of the fbtlen man, *vho, with a great snort, acknowledges his con- ieiousness, and the pleasure he derives from it. Soon the other fist of the serving man follows, and the regular kneading process is [lerformed ; at first, slowly and cautiously, but gradually in- ereosing in quickness and severity until the attendant is forced to stop for breath, and the poor stupificd lump of obesity forgets to grunt in unison with the rapidly descending blows. This is the operation called rumi-rumi, and is usually continued from ten to fiHeen minutes, afler which the patient rises, yawns, ■tretehos his limbs, and calls loudly for another calabash of poe. This custom is followed almost exclusively by the chiefs, but is not confined to the male sex, the women enjoying the luxury equally with the men. The rumi-rumi is also practised in cases of abdominal pains, and in dyspeptic complaints. Even the fo- reigners sometimes resort to it, and find it beneficial. nth.'—Mt. N. and myself were invited to participate in a lu-au dinner, to be given in the valley of Nuano this ailernoon. At about 3 o'clock, Mr. Jones called for us, and furnished us with good horses, upon which we mounted, and galloped off to the valley. After a delightful ride of about five miles, over a good, though rather stony road, between the hills which enclose the valley, we arrived at a pretty little temporary cottage, formed entirely of the broad green leaves of the ti plant, and perched on a picturesque hill, overlooking the whole extent of our ride. Here wo found a number of the foreign gentlemen; others soon joined us, and our company consisted of fifty or sixty persons. a u t( a hi hi w SI si fa si ai hi di Pi S( a b; th ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 201 the king, John Youug, and several other distinguished natives being of the party. As the collation was not yet ready to be served up, Mr. Jones, Captain Hinckley, Mr. N. and myself remounted our horses for a visit to the great pari, or precipice, two miles above. We found the road somewhat rough, and very hilly, in some places ex- tremely narrow, and the path wound constantly through bushes and tall ferns to the elevated land which we were approaching. When within a few hundred yards of the precipice, we led our horses in charge of several native boys, who had followed us for the purpose, and ascended to the edge of the pari. The wind was blowing a gale, so that it was necessary to remove our hats and bind up our heads with handkerchiefs, and when we stood upon the cliff, some care was required to keep our footing, and to brace ourselves against the furious blast which was eddying around the summit. The pari is an almost perpendicular precipice, of about six hundred feet, composed of basaltic rock, with occasional strata of hard white clay. On the north is seen the fertile and beautiful valley of Kolau, with its neat little cottages, taro-patches and fields of sugar cane, spread out before you like a picture j and beyond, is the indented shore, with its high and pointed cliffs, margining the ocean as far as the eye can discern. Down this precipice, on the north side, is a sort of rude path, which the natives have constructed, and up this we saw a number of them toiling, clinging with their hands to the jutting crags abpve, to raise and support their bo- dies in the ascent. As they approached nearer to us, I was sur- prised to perceive that every man bore a burthen on his shoulder ; some had large calabashes of poe, suspended one on each end of a long pole, and others carried living pigs, similarly suspended, by having their feet tied together, and the pole passed between them. The porkers, although hanging buck downwards, in a 26 ■>lt' i I I 202 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY position not the most comfortable, did not complain of the treat- ment, until they were deposited on the terra firma of the summit, when they tuned their pipes to a lusty squeal, and made amends for their former silence. This spot is the scene of the last great battle of King Tame- hameha, by which he acquired the sole and absolute sovereignty of the whole Sandwich group. The routed army of the petty island king was driven to take refuge among the wild crags of the pari, and hither it was followed by the conquering forces of the invader. No quarter was shown. The fugitives were hunted like savage beasts, and, almost to a man, were hurled from the giddy height and dashed to pieces on the frightful rocks below. On returning to the cottage, we found that the dinner had been dished up, and that the guests were about taking their seats. Our table was the green grass, upon which had been arranged, with native taste, a circular table cloth, composed of ti leaves, placed one above another. On this the viands were laid. They consisted of fat pigs, and fat dogs, turkies, chickens, boiled ham, and fish, with vegetables of various kinds, taro, sweet po- tatoes, &c., — all cooked in the native manner, in pits made in the ground, in which heated stones had been placed. Each pig and dog had such a stone within him, and around it had been wrapped a quantity of ti leaves, which were eaten as greens, and were excellent. The whole of the cookery was, in fact, very su- perior, and would have delighted the most fastidious epicure of our own enlightened land. We had also various liquors : Champagne, cherry, Madeira, and mountain dew, and were waited upon by native men and boys, with chaplets of green bound around their heads, and their persons profusely ornamented with the " fern and heather of their native valleys." Among the attendants, Mr. Mills, or Deacon Mills, as he is sometimes called, stood pre- eminent; he acted as purveyor and major domo; wns every ACBOaS THE ROCKY U0VNTAIN8, ETC. 203 where at the same moment, and ahowed, by his uniform con- duct, that he was fully alive to the high responsibilities of his office. When the meats were removed, wine usurped the board, toasts were drunk, and songs were sung, and all was hilarity and cheerfulness. Towards evening the whole party mounted their horses and galloped down the valley into the town. As we entered the precincts we formed ourselves into a battalion, and reined in our horses to a dignified trot, in order to pass a troop of gay native ladies who were returning from a visit to Waititi. At the head of this equestrian cavalcade, I was surprised to observe the largo person of Madam Kinau, sitting astride upon a noble steed which evidently made an effort to curvet and appear pround of its queenly burthen. While we were proceeding at this slow gait, a man suddenly sprang up behind my saddle and fixed his arms firmly around my waist. I was not more astonished than my horse at this intru- sion ; and the spirited animal which I rode, not being accustomed to carrying double, and feeling unwilling to be so imposed upon, began kicking up his heels, and darting wildly about the road. I requested the intruder to dismount instantly, but the only atten- tion which was paid to this was a reply, in the native language, which I did not understand. Supposing him to be one of the ser- vants who had been heated by the refuse wine of the feast, and con- sidering myself in real danger from the unruly conduct of my horse, I turned half round and dealt "my merry companion a blow in the chest, which I intended should have unseated him. How was I astonished to hear the exclamation, " don't strike so hard, Aaurt," from him who occupied my crupper, and I was not long in discovering that the joker was the king, Kauikeaouli, himself. I apologized in the best manner I could, though out of breath with I ii NARRATIVB OF A JOURNEY the exertion of restraining the fiery horse. His majesty did not seem in the least ofTended, but passing one arm each side of me, and taking the bridle in his hands, he guided the animal into one of the largest stores of the town, through which we went jumping and prancing, followed by all the king's train, and several white men of the party. lOt le, ne to ACROSS THI BOCKV HOVNTAlNi, KTO. 365 CHAPTER XII. Viitt to the island of Kauai-'A royal tall—Kn'. P. 3. Oullch, the minion- ary—Deicription qfthe itlani—Jl pmiint from Kauiktitoull—lioyal mode of obtaining nifpliei—A change t^f rtiidetift—Kj'euriloni through the coun- try— Birds— JSTative method of catching tfum—'J'hi travellers wind-bound — Shell hunting— Habile of the natiwe'-Htach fond, ami mode t^f eating it — Vieit of the king, and governor A'ekioem—Cltariicterlittct of the latter — Anxiety of the king to return home— Arrival (\f fill followere—A metamor- phoii»—A royal tupfer— Evening »erviet-'Uoi/ttt guard— A tail in tight- Joy of the king — Hii letter— Return t\f the Avet^Departure from Xauai, and arrival at Oahu—A ple-nic party at J'twt river- Calabaeh dance by the natives — Departure for Columbia rivtr—A primitive putsage to tlie shore— A storm at sea — A flight qf iihort hlr(tl— Land ahead— Arrival at the Columbia. February 10th. — Mr. Nuttall and myself wore kindly invited by Captain Hinckley, to take a trip with him to the island of Kauai, in the brig Avon, owned by him. We embarked this morning, and with the pilot on board sailed out of the harbor. This being one of the leeward islands, towards which the trade-winds al- ways blow, we made the passage quickly ; and in the evening ran into the harbor of Koloa, and anchored within half a mile of the shore. The next morning we landed in our boat, nnd took possession of a large untenanted native house, ncor the beach, belonging to Captain H. Our servant busied himself in making our new re- sidence comfortable, arranging the bijdding and mosquitoe cur- tains, procuring mats for partitions, and, fmally, in setting before us a good breakfast, cookod on tho spot. We had sf arcely k \ 206 NABRATIVE OF A JOURNEY finished our meal, when two horsemen rode up, and dismounting at the door, entered the house. Our visitors proved to be the king and John Young, who had mounted their horses this morn- ing for a cattle hunt on the hills, but hearing of the arrival of the foreigners, had hastened to pay their respects to us, and as- sure us of their protection. The king, and his train came a few days since to this island, and propose remaining two or three weeks longer ; his majesty's object appears to be to insi)ect the condition of his people here, and to give them an opportunity of evincing their loyalty and affection. He was so kind as to express much interest for Mr. N. and myself, gave us one of his own body servants for our attendant, while we remain, and promised that in the aAernoon he would send us some provisions. Shortly after the king left us, we were visited by the Rev. P. J. Gulick,the missionary of this station, to whom I had a letter from my kind friend, Mr. Deill, and after sitting half an hour, we ac- companied him to his house, about a mile distant. This part of the island of Kauai exhibits no particularly in- teresting features : from the beach to the mission station there is a good road made by the natives over a gentle ascent of about two miles, on each side of which taro patches, yam and maize fields abound. Back from the ocean and at right angles with it, are seen several ranges of long, high hills, with narrow valleys between ; the hills are covered with low trees of Tu-tui' and Pan- danus, and the valleys with dense bushes, tall ferns, and broad leaved bananas. The good missionary introduced us to his wife, a very intelli- gent and agreeable woman, and to his three pretty children, and we spent an hour with them very pleasantly. In the afternoon we returned to our cottage near the beach, where we found a native waiting for us with a hand cart filled with provisions of various kinds, which he said the king had sent to us as a present. There was a very large hog, three pigs, three or ACROSS THE ROCKY MOVNTAIITS, ETC. 207 Tour turkies, and several pairs of chickens, all living; with vegetables in great abundance, taro, sweet-potatoes, melons, &c. I thought the man must certainly have made a mistake, but he assured me that it was right : " the king had sent them to the < haurig' (foreigners) who had just arrived, and wished him to say that in tree days he would send them as much more." His majesty had evidently measured our appetites by the standard oi his own people, and we determined to see him immediately, and countermand the sumptuous order which he had given. It may be proper here to remark, that when the king, or chiefs, wish a supply of provisions, or any other articles in which the common people deal, or of which they arc possessed, a messenger is sent to demand such things in the name of the master, and a levy is made upon the property of the poor native, without any kind of compensation being ever offered. We were aware that our pro- vision had been obtained in this way, and were unwilling that the industrious poor should lose their labor to contribute to our wants, preferring to buy from them the necessary supplies. The next day we paid another visit to Mr. Gulick, and ac- cepted a pressing invitation to make our home with him, his house being much more convenient to the valleys, which we wished to explore in search of birds and other natural objects. Here we had another interview with the king, who insisted upon our occupying a fine large house in the neighborhood of Mr. Gulick's residence, as a depository for our collections. We accepted this offer with pleasure, and the missionary's accommo- dation being somewhat contracted, we used the king's house as our study and sleeping apartment, taking our meals with the family of our kind friend. We made here several long excursions over the hills and through the deep valleys, without much success. The birds are the same as those we found and collected at Oahu, but are not so numerous. They are principally creepers {Certhia) and honey- t t 208 NARRATIVE OF A JOVRITET auckera (Nectarinia ;) feed chiefly upon flowers, and the sweet juico of the banana, and some species are very abundant. The native boys here have adopted a singular mode of catching the honey sucking birds. They lay themselves flat upon their backs on the ground, and cover their whole bodies with bushes, and the campanulate flowers of which the birds are in search. One of these flowers is then held by the lower portion of the tube be- tween the finger and thumb; the little bird inserts his long, curved bill to the base of the flower, when it is immediately seized by the Angers of the boy, and the little fluttcrer disappears beneath the mass of bushes. In this way, dozens of beautiful birds are taken, and they are brought to us living and unin- jured. 20th. — We expected to have left the island several days ago, but the Avon has not returned, and she would not now be able to come, in consequence of a steady S. W. wind which has prevailed for the last week. Our ammunition, and materials for the preparation of birds, are entirely exhausted, and we cannot here obtain a supply, so we amuse ourselves in collecting shells on the beaches, plants, fish, &c. We are living very comfort- ably in the house furnished us by the king, and we have become completely domesticated in the agreeable family of Mr. Gulick. We sometimes spend whole days wandering along the rocky coast in search of shells, and in these journeys we are always accompanied by a troop of boys and girls, and sometimes men and women, often to the number of twenty or thirty. They are indefatigable shell-hunters, and prove of great service to us, being compensated for each one that they bring us, with pins or needles. In their habits they are perfectly amphibious, diving into the sea, and through the dashing surf without the least hesi- tation, and exploring the bottom for an almost incredible time without rising to breathe. , - In these sub-marine excursions they frequently find the echinus, h- ACROSS THB ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 200 with spines four or five inches in length, and the black, lumpish substance called beche la mer. Both these animals are eaten by them as they are taken living from the water ; the spines of the former are knocked off against the rocks, and the soft con- tents of the case sucked out ; the latter, after having the tough outside skin removed, are eaten like biscuits to qualify the meal. There is also another sea animal which is considered by the na- tives a great delicacy, the sepia, or cuttle fish. This is a large, ill-looking creature, with an oval body, and eight or ten long arms or tentacula ; within the cavity of the thorax is a sack, containing a fluid resembling ink, and as the teeth are sunk into this, the black juice squirts into the face of the masticator, while the long feelers are twisting about his head like serpents. March 5th. — The king, and Kakeocva, the governor of the island, called on us before breakfast this morning, and partici- pated in our family worship. After the usual prayer in English, by Mr. Gulick,Kakeoeva supplicated in his own language, in a tone peculiarly solemn and impressive, which concluded the service. This chief is, I believe, a sincerely good and pious man, and his piety consists not in profession alone, but is exhibited in nume- rous acts of unassuming benevolence to his oppressed people, and in uniform and well directed efforts for meliorating their condi- tion. He enforces all the tabus, which have for their object the suppression of vice and immorality, and while his people fear to disobey his injunctions in the smallest particular, they love and venerate him as their father and friend. The principal object of Xhe king in calling upon us, was to request, (which he did with great apparent diffidence,) the loan of his house for a few days, as he wished to move his residence to a point nearer the sea, in order to catch the first glimpse of the white sails of the Avon, the arrival of which he is expecting with great anxiety. His impatience to return to Oahu is said, sometimes, to exceed all reasonable bounds ; he works himself into a perfect 27 i 310 NAKRATIVR OF A JOVRNKY Airy ; rnncios that every thing is going Wrong at home, and that his people aro in mourning for his protracted ubstmcc; but although he is a king, the winds of heaven will not obey him, and, with the meanest follower in his train, ho must wait thu appointed time. We, of course, relinquished the house cheerfully, nnd, with the assistance of our native servants, trnnsferreJ ull our commo- dities to the mansion of the good missionary. In the aflcrnoon, the natives from ull parts of the island bognn to flock to the king's tompornry residence. The petty chiefs, and head men of the viltngcs, were mounted upon all sorts of horses, from the high-headed and high-mettled Cnliforninn steed, to the shaggy and diminutive poncy raised on their native hills ; men women and children were running on foot, laden with pigs, calabashes of poc, and every production of the soil ; and though last, certainly not least, in the evening there came the troops of of the island, with fife and drum, and " tinkling cymbal," to form a body guard for his majesty, the king. Little houses were put up all around the vicinity, and thotched m an incredibly short space of time, and when Mr. N. and myself visited the royal mansion, aAer nightfall, we found the whole neighborhood metamorphosed ; a beautiful little village had sprung up as by magic, and the retired studio of the naturalists had been trans- formed into a royal banquet hall. His majesty soon recognised us in the crowd, and taking us each by the hand, led us into the house, and introduced us to the queen, Kalama, who received us in a dignified and very pleasant manner, and made room for us near her at the supper, which the attendants were spreading upon the ground. This consisted of a variety of meats lu aued, fish, potatoes and tare, and before each guest was placed a little calabash of poc. As I have before stated, this last article is an indispensable requisite in the economy of every meal ; and even the refined Kauikeaouli, who has abolished in his own person so ACRom fnn rockt moi^ttains, rT( f/fl many of iho riido customs of his forefathers, must sip a little poo to conchido his supper. I rcmarkeiJ, however, that on this occa* sion, he did not soil his fingers, as is usual, but fed himself with a spoon as delicately as possible. The queen, on the contrary, and all the chiefs assembled at the board, plunged their hands into the paste, and sucked their fingers oflor tho approved fiishion. '* , > When tho supper was concluded, tho peopio were all assembled under a ranai, or shed, which had l)cen constructed for the occasion, and prayer was made in a loud and solemn tone, by John li, tho king's chaplain. At its conclusion, tho peopio scattered themselves about as before ; some were collected in little groups on tho ground, smoking their short pipes, and re« galing themselves with sea-urchins and succulent cuttle-fish, while the stcntor voices of tho royal guard pealed out an " all's well" from their station near the palace of tho monarch. This royal guard, which wo had an opportunity of seeing next morning, would not do discredit to a militia gathering in yan* keo land. Like our own redoubtable troops, the men were of all sizes, in every variety of costume, and with all sorts of weapons; muskets without bayonets or locks, and no muskets at all, broom- sticks, and tin pans, swords, pistols, and taro tops. They were arranged every morning in line before the door of the palace, and laboriously drilled in the manual exercise, by James Young, a half-caste who has been in America. Poor fellows! they had hard duty to perform, and were no doubt longing for the time when his majesty should 'depart, that they might dxchange the arduous and uncongenial duties of the camp, for the toil of their simple husbandry. About a week after, as I was strolling near the palace, which, being on a hill, commanded a fine view of the ocean, the cry of " sail, O !" was uttered in a joyful tone, by a bevy of urchins, who ittttrntmrnm^^m 212 NABRATIVB OF A JOURNEY were on the look out, and was echoed all round the neighbor- hood. The king, who had of late become unusually dull and spiritless, seemed suddenly to have acquired new life. He was seen rushing out of the house, like one distraught, and jumping and capering all about in a perfect agony of joy. Seeing me near him, he grasped my hand in the most cordial manner, while his eyes filled with tears : " We shall go back to Oahu, hauri, my people want me again ; the wind has changed, and this ship is sent to take me away." I participated in the anxiety of the king to return ; for, in ad- dition to the ennui which is always the accompaniment of a forced detention, even in pleasant places, I feared that our brig would leave the islands for the Columbia without us, and we should thus lose the opportunity of hailing the opening of spring, in our western world, the season which, of all others, is the most interesting to us. Next morning a messenger came to the king from Waimea, a port about fourteen miles distant, with information that the schooner which we had seen, had put in there, and only waited the embarkation of his majesty to steer direct for Oahu. No time was lost in taking advantage of this opportunity; and at noon, the spot, which the day before had swarmed with hundreds of dingy natives, was silent and untenanted. On the day following, learning that the schooner had not sail- ed, and fearing that the Avon would not arrive early enough, I wrote a letter to the king, requesting a passage for Mr. N. and myself, with him. To this, — which I sent by a runner, — the following laconic reply was received. It was directed "To the missionary, Mr. Gulick," and is rendered literally from the native language : " Say thou to the foreigners, we have sailed. Let them look out when we arrive there. Kino Kavikeaovli." The arrival spoken of, alluded to the vessel passing the port AfiBOM TUB BOCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 213 of Koloft, where the schooner would back her topsails and lie to, that we might board hor in a canoe. After some fonsidcratio:., and consultation with Mr. Gulick, we concluded that wo would decline the king's offer, as we knew the vessel would bo crowded, and therefore uncomfortable ; and as the wind now blew steadily in its accustomed quarter, we had little doubt of the early arrival of the Avon. In the after- noon wo SRW tho schooner of the king come booming along past us, tho dock, and ovon tho rigging, alive with natives, but a mes- sengor whom we had previously sent off, saved them the trouble of bringing to ) and away went the little vessel on a wind, and soon becamo a dim and ill-defined speck upon the far hori- zon. llith<—X sail was descried at daylight this morning, bearing towards our island i and while we were at breakfast, two fisher- men called, to toll us that it was the Avon come at last. She was standing towards the harbor of Koloa, with a fair wind, and when Mr. N. and myself arrived at the beach, she was hauling in under the land. Tho captain and Mr. Smith, a residen' of Ho- noruru, come en shore to meet us. They informed us that the king arrived at Oahu last evening, after an unusually boisterous and uncoiitftirtablo passage, and that his majesty was almost be- Bido himself with jt/y to receive once more the warm and affec- tionate greetings of his people at home. The brig was detained here a day, in order to take in a cargo of live stofik, pigs, goats, &c.; and the next morning we bade adieu to the kind and offectionate family of the missionary, and wont on beard. In tho afternoon our anchor was weighed, and wo were sootl ploughing the wide ocean, while the rugged, iron- bound coast of Kautti rapidly receded from our view. We had on board several distinguished natives, as passengers, the princi- pal of whom was Kckcocva, the governor, and at each meal which we took on hoard, the old gentleman asked an audible II 314 NARRATIVE OF A JOVRNEV blessing on the viands, and regularly returned thanks at its con- cluMion. After tt pleasant passage of two days we arrived at Oahu, and were warmly greeted by our friends, who sympathized with us, and thought that our long tarriance must have been peculiarly irksome. They knew but little of the resources of the natural- ist i they knew not that the wild forest, the deep glen, and the roggcd mountain-top possess charms for him which he would not exchongo for gilded palaces ; and that to acquaint himself with nature, ho gladly escapes from the restraints of civilization, and buries himself from the world which cannot appreciate his en- joyment, >■''■■ Sid.— I joined a party of ladies and gentlemen this morning, in an excursion to Pearl river, on the west side of the island. Wo embarked in several small schooners and barges, and had a delightlbt trip of two hours. The king, who was with us, with ft number of his favorites, John Young, Kanaina, Halileo, &c., procured for our accommodation several native houses, in which we slung our cots and hammocks, and slept at night. We took our meals under a large shaded ranai, and the amusements of the party were riding, shooting, and a variety of sylvan games, which rendered our pic-nic of three days a constant scene of plensnnt festivity. The night before we left, the gentlemen of the party were in vited by tho king to witness the curious exhibition called the •* calabash dunce." We entered a large house, crowded with na- tives, with tho exception of a wide space in the middle, which Jlfld l)Con reserved for the performers. These were men and wo- men to the number of ten or twelve, in a state of almost perfect nudity, having no covering, except the small maro of tapa Ixiund around the loins. Each was furnished with a very large gourd, having the neck attached, and from the under surface tlio cuutonts had been removed through a small aperture. The ACROSS TUE ROCKV MOUNTAINS, ETC. 9ld performers kneeled upon the ground, and each grasped his gourd by the neck and lifted it, when one of the number commenced a strange kind of howling song, lifting his calabash with one hand and beating it with the other so as to keep accurate time to his music. This song was soon taken up by the others, until the whole company joined, and every one thumped his calabash most musically. I was astonished at the exceeding nicety with which this was done. No baud of civilized drummers could i:ave kept time more perfectly, nor flourished their sticks with more grace, than did these unsophisticated people their inartificial instruments. During the whole time of the singing, the bodies of the perform- ers were not idle ; every muscle seemed to have something to do ; and was incessantly brought into action by the strange motions, twistings and contortions of the frame, which were also as eva- nescent as the sound of their voices. This singular exhibition pos- sessed interest for me, as being one of the idolatrous games, which in former years constituted a portion of their religious ex- ercises. The calabash dance is now almost exploded, the natives generally not understanding the manipulations, and like other relics of heathenism it is of course discouraged by the mission- aries, and will probably soon be unknown amongst them. On the 26th of March we embarked on board the brig May Dacre, upon our return to the Columbia. As we sailed out of the harbor, and the lovely shore of the island became more and more indistinct, I felt sad and melancholy in the prospect of parting, perhaps for ever, from the excellent friends who had treated me with such uniform kindness and hospitality. We have had an accession to our crew of thirty Sandwich Islanders, who are to be engaged in the salmon fishery on the Columbia, and six of these have been allowed the unusual privi- lege of taking their wives with them. Some six or eight natives, of both sexes, friends and relatives of the crew, came on board when we weighed anchor, and their parting words were prolonged I 216 MABRATIVE OF A JOVKNEV until the brig cleared the reef, and her sails had filled with the fresh trade wind. They thought it then time to withdraw, and putting their noses together after their fashion, they bade their friends an afTectionate farewell, and without hesitation dashed into the sea, and made directly for shore. I thought of blue sharks, tiger sharks, and shovel-noses, and would not have run such a risk for all the wealth of all the islands. April 6 aniining the body, wu Ibund thut the two balls from the pistol had entered the arm btilow the shoulder, nnd escaping the bone, had passed into the cavity of the chest. The verdict of the jury was " justifiable homicide," nnd a properly attested certificate, con- taining a full account of the proceedings, was given to Hubbard, as well for his satisfaction, as to prevent future diflicuity, if the subject should ever be investigated by a judicial tribunal. This Thornburg was an unusually bold and determined man, fruitful in inventing mischief, as he was reckless and daring in its prosecution. His appetite for ardent spirits was of the most inordinate kind. During the journey across the country, I con- stantly carried a large two-guUon bottle of whiskey, in which I deposited various kinds of lizards and serpents and when we arrived at the Columbia the vessel was almost full of these crawling creatures. I left the bottle on board the brig when I paid my first visit to the Wallammet falls, and on my return found that Thornburg had decanted the liquor from the precious reptiles which I had destined for immortality, and he and one of his pot companions had been " happy" upon it for a whole day. This appeared to mc almost as bad as the •' tapping of the Admiral," practised with such success by the British seamen; but unlike their commander, I did not discover the theft until too late to save my specimens, which were in consequence all destroyed. llth. — Mr. Nuttall, who has just returned from the dalles, where he has been spending some weeks, brings distressing intelligence from above. It really seems thut the " Columbia River Fishing and Trading Company" is devoted to destruction ; disasters meet them at every turn, and as yet none of their schemes have prospered. This has not been for want of energy or exertion. Captain W. has pursued the plans which seemed AOROM TIIR ROOKY MOirNTAIN*, VtC MB to him best ndnptcd for insuring succoss, with the most indefati* gnblo pcrsovornnce ni.il indiiRtry, and has endured hardships without mnrmurin<(, which would have proHtrntcd many a more robust mnn ; ncvortholnss, ho hns not succeeded in making the business of fishing nnd trapping productive, and as wo can- not divino tho coiino, wu must attributu it to tho Providence that rules tho destinies of men and controls all human enter- prises. Two evenings since, eight Sandwich Islanders, a whifo man and an Indian woman, loll tho cascades in a largo canoo laden with salmon, for the brig. The river was as usual rough nnd tempestuous, the wind blew a heavy gale, the canoe was cap- sized, and eight out of the ten sank to rise no more. The two who escaped, islanders, have taken refuge among tho In- dians at tho village below, and will probably join us in a few days. Intelligence has also been received of tho murder of one of Wyeth's principal trappers, named Abbot, and another white man who accompanied him, by the Bannock Indians. The two men were on their way to tho Columbia with a large load of beaver, and had stopped at the lodge of tho Banneck chief, by whom they had been hospitably entertained. After they left, the chief, with several of his young men, concealed themselves in a thicket, near which the unsuspicious trappers passed, and shot and scalped them both. These Indians have been heretofore harmless, and have always appeared to wish to cultivate the friendship of the white people. The only reason that can be conceived for this change in their sentiments, is that some of their number muy lately have received injury from the white traders, and, with true Indian animosity, they determined to wreak their vengeance ur.(r.i the whole race. Thus it is always unsafe to travel among Indians, as no one 89 226 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY knows at what moment a tribe which has always been friendly, may receive ill treatment from thoughtless, or evil-designing men, and the innocent suffer for the deeds of the guilty. _.., August 19th. — This morning, Captain Thing (Wyeth's part- ner) arrived from the interior. Poor man ! he looksL . try much worn by fatigue and hardships, and seven years older than when I last saw him. He passed through the Snake country from Fort Hall, without knowing of the hostile disposition of the Baniiecks, but, luckily for him, only met small parties of them, who feared to attack his camp. He remarked symptoms of distrust and coolness in their manner, for which he was, at the time, unable to account. As I have yet been only an hour in his company, and as a large portion of this time was consumed in his business affairs, I have not been able to obtain a very par- ticular account of his meeting and skirmish with the Blackfeet last spring, a rumor of which we heard several weeks since. From what I have been enabled to gather, amid the hurry and bustle consequent upon his arrival, the circumstances appear to be briefly these. He had made a camp on Salmon river, and, as usual, piled up his goods in front of it, and put his horses in a pen erected temporarily for the purpose, when, at about day- break, one of his sentries heard a gun discharged near. He went immediately to Captain T.'s tent to inform him of it, and at that instant a yell sounded from an adjacent thicket, and about five hundred Indians, — three hundred horse and two hundred foot, — rushed out into the open space in front. The mounted savages were dashing to and fro across the line of the camp, discharging their pieces with frightful rapidity, while those who had not horses, crawled around to take them in the rear. Notwithstanding the galling fire which the Indians were con- stantly pouring into them, Captain T. succeeded in driving his horses into the thicket behind, and securing them there, placing over them a guard of three men as a check to the savages who AtlMOSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 227 worfl ft|il»ro(iching from that quarter. He then threw himself, with thf) romdindpr of his little baad, behind the bales of goods, Bnd petlirnod tho firo of the enemy. He states that occa- sioimlly )i(f wftN gratified by the sight of an Indian tumbling from hiM Iiomr, tind at such times a dismal, savage yell was uttorod liy tho rcHt, who then always fell back a little, but re- ttirnftd liufflpdiatoly to tho charge with more than their former Ajry. At IPHflilh tho Indians, apparently wearied by their unsuccess- ful ftttempfs to dislodge the white men, changed their mode of at- tack, nuA rodo upon the slight fortification, rapidly and steadily. Although thoy lost a man or two by this (for them) unu- simlly buld pfocccding, yet they succeeded in driving the brave little bnnd ef whites to the cover of the bushes. They then took possjwiilion of tho goods, (fee, which had been used as a defence, ond retired to u considerable distance, where they were soon joined by tlioir comrades on foot, who had utterly failed in their attempt to oljtttin the horses. In a short time, a man was seen advancing from the main body of Indians towards the scene of combat, holding tip his hand as a sign of amity, and an intima- tion of tho suspension of hostilities, and requested a " talk" with the white people. Captain T., with difficulty repressing his in- clination to shoot tho savage herald down, was induced, in con- Nideration of tho safety of his party, to dispatch an interpreter towardi him. Tho only information that the Blackfcet wished to communicate was, that having obtained all the goods of the white people, they were now willing that they should continue their joMrnf-y in pence, and that they should not again be molest- ed. The Indiana then departed, and the white men struck back on their trail, towards Fort Hall. Captain Thing lost every thing ho hnd with him, all his clothing, papers, journals, &c. But lie shohld prohiihly bo thankful that he escaped with his life, for 328 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY it ia known to be very ususual for these hostile Indians to Kparo the lives of white men, when in their power, the acquisi- tion of property being generally with them only a secondary consideration. Captain T. had two men severely, but not mortally, wounded* Tho Indians had seven killed, and a considerable iiumber wounded. iOth. — Several days since a poor man came here in a mos* doplornblo condition, having been gashed, stabbed and bruised in a manner truly frightful. He had been travelling on foot con- stantly for fifteen days, exposed to the broiling sun, with nothing to cat during the whole of this time, except the very few roots which he had been able to find. He was immediately put in the hospital here, and furnished with every thing necessary for his comfort, as well as surgical attendance. He states that he left Monterey, in California, in the spring, in company with seven men, for the purpose of coming to the Wallammet to join Mr. Young, an American, who is now settled in that country. They met with no accident until they arrived at a village of Potdmeos Indians,* about ten days journey south of this. Not knowing tho character of these Indians, they were not on their guard, allowing them to enter their camp, and finally to obtain posses- sion of their weapons. The Indians then fell upon the defence- less little band with their tomahawks and knives, (having no fire arms themselves, and not knowing the use of those they had taken,) and, ere the white men had recovered from the panic which tho sudden and unexpected attack occasioned, killed four of them. The remaining four fought with their knives as long as Ihoy were able, but were finally overpowe. nnd this poor rgllow left upon the ground, covered with woui. ind in a state * Cnlli'd by tlic inhabitants of tliis country, the " i-ascally Indiana,'' from their utillwtnly pvil (liapotition, and liostility to wliitu people. ACROSS THE BOCKY MOVNTAIMS, ETC. 229 their of insensibility. How long he remained in this situation, he has no means of ascertaining ; but upon recovering, the place was vacated by all the actors in the bloody scene, except his three dead companions, who were lying stark and stiff where they fell. By considerable exertion, he was enabled to drag himself into a thicket near, for the purpose of concealment, as he rightly con- jectured that their captors would soon return to secure the trophies of their treacherous victory, and bury the corpses. This happened almost immediately after ; the scalps were torn from the heads of the slain, and the mangled bodies removed for inter- ment. After the most dreadful and excrutiating sufferings, as we can well believe, the poor man arrived here, and is doing well under the excellent and skilful care of Doctor Gairdncr. I ex- amined most of his wounds yesterday. He is literally covered with them, but one upon the lower part of his face is the most frightful. It was made by a single blow of a tomahawk, the point of which entered the upper lip, just below the nose, cutting entirely through both the upper and lower jaws and chin, and passing deep into the side of the neck, narrowly missing the large jugular vein. He says he perfectly recollects receiving this wound. It was inflicted by a powerful savage, who at the same time tripped him with his foot, accelerating his fall. He also remembers distinctly feeling the Indian's long knife pass five sepaiate times into hie body ; of what occurred after this he knows nothing. This is certainly by far the most horrible looking wound I ever saw, rendered so, however, by injudicious treatment and entire want of care in the proper apposition of the sundered parts; he simply bound- it up as well as ho could with his handkerchief, and his extreme anguish caused him to forget the necessity of accuracy in this respect. The consequence is, that the lower part of his face is dreadfully contorted, one side being cunsiderably lower than the other. A union by the 230 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY first intention has been formed, and the ill-arranged parts are uniting. ;■ .,-.i;.; .'m, ,,,■,- ■..') -, , ,,-■.,->" - .•.■;,:C:, r^^: This case has produced considerable excitement in our little circle. The P«jtamcos have more than once been guilty of acts of this kind, and some of the gentlemen of the fort have proposed fitting out an expedition to destroy the whole nation, but this scheme will probably not be carried into effect. ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 231 CHAPTER XIV. Indians qf the Columbia — t/ieir Tnelancholy condition — Departure of Mr. JVkN tall and Dr. Gairdner — A nevi vocation — Arrival of the Rev. Samvel Parker — his object — Departure of the American brig — Swans — Indian mode of tcUcing them — A large wolf— An Indian mummy — A night adventure — A discovert/, and restoration of stoleti property — FraterTuil tenderness of an Itidian — Indian vengeance — Death of Waskima, the Indian girl — " Busy- body ^ the little chief— A village of Kowalitsk Indians— Ceremony of " making medicine"— Exposure of an impostor — Success of legitimate medi' cines — Departure from Fort Vancouver for a visit to the interior — Arrival qf a stranger— " Cape Horn"— Tilki, the Indian chirf— Indian villages- Arrival at Fort Walla-walla — Sharp-tuiled grouse— Commencement qf a journey to the Blue mountains. The Indians of the Columbia were once a numerous and pow- erful people ; the shore of the river, for scores of miles, was lined with their villages ; the council fire was frequently lighted, the pipe passed round, and the destinies of the nation deliberated upon. War was declared against neighboring tribes ; the deadly tomahawk was lifled, and not buried until it was red with the blood of the savage ; the bounding deer was hunted, killed, and his antlers ornamented the wigwam of the red man ; the scalps of his enemies hung drying in the smoke of his lodge, and the Indian was happy. Now,' alas ! where is he? — gone ; — gathered to his fathers and to his happy hunting grounds ; his place knows him no more. The spot where once stood the thickly peopled vil- lage, the smoke curling and wreathing above the closely packed lodges, the lively children playing in the front, and their indolent I h 232 XARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY parents lounging on their mats, is now only indicated by a henp of undistinguishable ruins. The depopulation here has been truly fearful. A gentleman told me, that only four years ago, as ho wandered near what had formerly been a thickly peopled village, he counted no less than sixteen dead, men and women, lying unburied and festering in the sun in front of their habitations. Within the houses all were sick ; not one had escaped the contagion ; upwards of a hundred individuals, men, women, and children, were writhing in agony on the floors of the houses, with no one to render them any assistance. Some were in the dying struggle, and clenching with the convul- sive grasp of death their disease-worn companions, shrieked and howled in the last sharp agony. Probably there does not now exist one, where, five years ago, there were a hundred Indians; and in sailing up the river, roni the cape to the cascades, the only evidence of the existence) of the Indian, is an occasional misernble wigwam, with a few wretched, half-starved occupants. In some other places they are rather more numerous; but the thoughtful observer cannot avoid perceiving that in a very few years the race must, in the nature of things become extinct; and the time is probably not far distant, when the little trinkets and toys of this people will bo picked up by the curious, and valued as mementoes of a nation passed away for ever from the face of the earth. The aspect of things is very melancholy. It seems as if the fiat of the Creator had gone forth, that these poor denizens of the forest and the stream should go hence, and be seen of men no more. In former years, when the Indians were numerous, long after tho establishment of this fort, it was not safe for the white men attached to it to venture beyond the protection of its guns with- out being fully aimed. Such was the jealousy of the natives towards them, that various deep laid schemes were practised to obtain possession of the post, and massacre all whom it had har- ! iii;! ACItOU TUB KOtJKY MUVNTA1N8, UTC. 233 bored; now, however, they arn an Mubmisoivo as children. Some have even entered into tijo norvii absence, the charge of the hospital will devolve on mo, and my time will thus be employed through the coming winter. Thoro oro at present but few cases of sickness, mostly ague and fever, so prevalent at this season. My companion, Mr. Nuttall, was also n passenger in the same vessel. From the islands, ho will probably visit California, and either return to the Columbia by the next ship, and take the route across the mountains, or double Cnpc Horn to reach his home. 16th. — Several days since, tho Uov. Samuel Parker, of Ithaca, N. York, arrived at tho fort. Ho left his home last May, travel- led to the rendezvous on tho Colorado, with the fur company of Mr. Fontinelle,and performed the nsmuinder of tho journey with the Nez Perct or Chmptiu Indiunu. His object is to examine the country in respect to its agricultural and other facilities, with a view to the establishment of missions among the Indians. He will probably return to the Stnros next spring, and report the 284 NARRATIVB OF A JOVKNEY result of his observations to the board of commissioners, by whose advice his pioneer journey has been undertaken.* . On the 17th, I embarked with this gentleman in a canoe, for a visit to the lower part of the river. We arrived at the American brig in the afternoon, on board of which we quartered for the night, and the next morning early, the vessel cast off from the shore. She has her cargo of furs and salmon on board, and is bound to Boston, via the Sandwich and Society Islands. Mr. Parker took passage in her to Fort George, and in the afternoon I returned in my canoe to Vancouver. ^ December lat. — The weather is now unusually fine. Instead of the drenching rains which generally prevail during the winter months, it has been for some weeks clear and cool, the ther- mometer ranging from 35° to 45°. The ducks and geese, which have swarmed throughout the country during the latter part of the autumn, are leaving us, and the swans are arriving in great numbers. These are here, as in all other places, very shy ; it is difficult to approach them without cover; but the Indians have adopted a mode of killing them which is very successful ; that of drifting upon the flocks at night, in a canoe, in the bow of which a large fire o£ pitch pine has been kindled. The swans are dazzled, and apparently stupified by the bright light, and fall easy victims to the craft of the sportsman. 20tk. — Yesterday one of the Canadians took an enormous wolf in a beaver-trap. It is probably a distinct species from the com- mon one, (lupus,) much larger and stronger, and of a yellowish cinereous color. The man states that he found considerable diffi- culty in capturing him, even after the trap had been fastened on • Mr. Parker has since published an account of this tour, to which the reader is referred, for much valuable information, relative to the condition of the Indians on our western frontier. ACROSS THE ROCKY MODNTAINS, KTC. 2»5 his foot. Unlike the lupus, (which is cowardly nnd cringing when made prisoner,) he showed fight, and seizing the polo in his teeth, with which the man attempted to despatch him, with one backward jerk, threw his assailant to the ground, and darted at him, until checked by the trap chain. He was finally shot, and I obtained his skin, which I have preserved. I have just had a visit from an old and intelligent Indian chief, who lives near. It is now almost midnight, but for the last hour I have heard the old man wandering about like an unquiet spirit, in the neighborhood of my little mansion, and singing snatches of the wild, but sweetly musical songs of his tribe. It is a bitter night, and supposing the old man might be cold, I invited him to a seat by my comfortable fire. .<---. i He says, " eighty snows have chilled the earth since Manu quon was born." Maniquon has been a great warrior ; ho has himself taken twenty scalps between the rising and setting of the sun. Like most old people, he is garrulous, and, like all Indians, fond of boasting of his v/arlike deeds. I can sit for hours and hear old Maniquon relate the particulars of his numerous cam- paigns, his ambushes, and his " scrimmages," as old Hawk-eye would say. When he once gets into the spirit of it, he springs upon his feet, his old, sunken eyes sparkle like diamonds set in bronze, and he whirls his shrunken and naked arm around his head, as though it still held the deadly tomahawk. But in the midst of his excitement, seeming suddenly to recollect his fallen state, he sinks into his chair. " Maniquon is not a warrior now — he will never raise his axe again — his young men have deserted his lodge — his sons will go down to their graves, and the squaws will not sing of their great deeds." I have several times heard him speak the substance of these words in his own language, and in one instance he concluded thus: |i!l 230 NARRATIVE OF A JOVRNEY "And who made my people what they are?" This question was put in a low voice, almost r. whisper, and was accompanied by a look so savage and malignant, that I almost quailed before the imbecile old creature. I, however, answered quickly, with- out giving him l^me to reply to hk own question. " The Great Spirit, Maniquon," pointing with my finger im- pressively upwards. " Yes, yes — it was the Great Spirit ; it was not the white man/" I could have been almosi angry withihe old Indian for the look of deadly hostility with which he uttered these last words, but that I sympathized with his wounded pride, and pitied his sorrows too much to harbor any other feeling than commise- ration for his manifold wrongs. February 3d, 1836. — During a visit to Fort William, last week, I saw, as I wandered through the forest, about three miles from the house, a canoe, deposited, as is usual, in the branches of a tree, some fourteen feet from the ground. Knowing that it contained the body of an Indian, I ascended to it for the purpose of abstracting the skull ; but upon examination, what was my surprise to find a perfect, embalmed body of a young female, in a state '•f preservation equal to any which I had seen from the catacombs of Thebes. I determined to obtain possession of it, but as this was not the proper time to carry it away, I returned to the fort, and said nothing of the discovery which I had made. That night, at the witching hour of twelve, I furnished myself with a rope, and launched a small canoe, which I paddled up against the current to a point opposite the mummy tree. Here I ran my canoe ashore, and removing my shoes and stockings, proceeded to the tree, which was about a hundred yards from the river. I ascended, and making the rope fast around the body, lowered it gently to the ground ; then arranging the fabric which had been displaced, as neatly as the darkness ollowed, I de- scended, and taking the body upon my shoulders, bore it to my ACROSS THE ROCKY M0VNTAIN9, ETC. 237 in cnnofl, ond pushed off into the stream. On arriving at the fort, I deposited my prize in the store house, and sewed around it a large Indian mat, to give it the appcaronce of- a bale of guns. Being on a visit to the fort, with Indians whom I had engaged to paddle my canoe, I thought it unsafe to take the mummy on board when I returned to Vancouver the next day, but loft directions with Mr. Walker to stow it away under the hatches of a little schooner, which was running twice a week between tlie two forts. On the arrival of this vessel, several days after, I received, instead of the body, a note from Mr. Walker, stating that an Indian had called at the fort, and demanded the corpse. He was the brother of the deceased, and hud been in the habit of visiting the tomb of his sister every year. He had now come for that purpose, from his residence near the " turn-water" (cascades,) ai,->I his keen eye had detected the intrusion of a stranger on the spot hallowed to him by many successive piN grimages. The canoe of his sister was tenantless, and he knew the spoiler to have been a white man, by the tracks upon the beach, v/hich did not incline inward like those of an Indian. The case was so clearly made out, that Mr. W. could not deny the fact of the body being in the house, and it was accord- ingly delivered to him, with a present of several blankets, to prevent the circumstance from operating upon his mind to the prejudice of the white people. The poor Indian took the body of liis sister upon his shoulders, and as he walked away, grief got the better of his stoicism, and the sound of his weeping was heard long after he had entered the forest. 25th. — Several weeks ago the only son of Ke-ez-a-no, the prin- cipal chief of the Chinooks, died. The father was almost distracted with grief, and during the first paroxysm attempted to take the life of the boy's mother, supposing that she had exerted an evil influence over him which had caused his death. She 238 NARRATIVR OF A JOUHNRV I li 11 ! was compelled to fly in conscqucnco, nnd put horscU' under the protection of Dr. McLoughlin, who found means to send her to her people below. Disappointed in this scheme of vengeance, the chief determined to sacrifice all whom ho thought had over wronged his son, or treated him with indignity ; nnd the first victim whom he selected was a very pretty and accomplished Chinook girl, named Wnsk^ma, who was remarkable for the exceeding beauty of her long black hair. Wa9k«tor medicine to two other children similarly affoetedi My stock of quinine being exhausted, I determined to substitute an extract of the bark of the dogwood, (Cornus Nut- talU,) and taking one of the parents into the wood with his blan- ket, I soon chipped off a plentiful supply, returned, boiled it in his own kettle, and completed the preparation in his lodge, with most of the Indians standing by, and staring at me, to compre- hend tho process. This was exactly what I wished; and as I proeeeded, I look some pains to explain the whole matter to them, In order that thoy might at a future time be enabled to make use of a really valuable medicine, which grows abundantly every where throughout the country. I have often thought it strange that tho sagoeity of tho Indians should not long ago have made them oequainted with this remedy; and I believe, if they had used It, they would not have had to mourn the loss of hundreds, or even thousands of their people who have been swept away by the demon of ague and fever. I administered to each of the children about a scruple of the extract per day. The second day they escaped the paroxysm, and on the third were entirely well. June 80 30th. — We were engaged almost the whole of this day in ma? 'ortages, and I had, in consequence, some opportunity of prosov ; y researches on the land. We have now passed the ra, j . ; vegetation ; there are no trees or even shrubs ; no- thing but huge, jagged rocks of basalt, and interminable sand heaps. I found here a large and beautiful species of marmot, (the Arctomys Richardsonii,) several of which I shot. Encamped in the evening at the village of the Indian chief, Tilki. I had often heard of this man, but I now saw him for the first time. His person is rather below the middle size, but his features are good, with a Roman cast, and his eye is deep black, and unu- sually fine. He appears to be remarkably intelligent, and half a century before the generality of his people in civilization. July 3d. — ^This morning we came to the open piairies, covered with wormwood bushes. The appearance, and strong odor of these, forcibly remind me of my journey across the mountains, when we frequently saw no vegetation for weeks, except this dry and barren looking shrub. The Indians here are numerous, and are now engaged in catching salmon, lamprey eels, &c. They take thousands of the latter, and they are seen hanging in great numbers in their lodges to dry in the smoke. As soon as the Indians see us approach, they leave their wigwams, and run out towards us. 244 NARRATIVK OF A JOVRNEY frequently wading to their breasts in the water, to get near the boats. Their constant cry is pi-pi, pi-pi, (tobacco, tobacco,) and they bring a great variety of matters to trade for this de- sirable article ; fish, living birds of various kinds, young wolves, foxes, minks, &c. .v : ,,.!,..>. .. ^-.h On the evening of the 6th, we arrived at Walla-walla or Nez Pcrces fort, where I was kindly received by Mr. Pambrun, the superintendent. The next day the brigade left us for the interior, and I shouldered my gun for an excursion through the neighborhood. On the west side of the little Walla-walla river, I saw, during a walk of two miles, at least thirty rattlesnakes, and killed five that would not get out of my way. They all seemed willing to dispute the ground with me, shaking their rattles, coiling and darting at mo with great fury. I returned to the fort in the afternoon with twenty-two sharp-tailed grouse, (Tetrao phasi- anellus,) the product of my day's shooting. 25th. — I mounted my horse this morning for a journey to the Blue mountains. I am accompanied by a young half breed named Babtiste Dorion,* who acts as guide, groom, interpreter, &c., and I have a pack horse to carry my little nick-nackeries. We shaped our course about N. E. over the sandy prairie, and in vhe evening encamped on the Morro river, having made about thirty miles. On our way, we met two Walla-walla Indians driving down a large band of horses. They inform us that the Snakes have crossed the mountain to commence their annual thieving of horses, and they are taking them away to have them secure. I shall need to keep a good look out to my own small caravan, or I shall be under the necessity of turning pedestrian. * This is the son of old Pierre Dorion, who make* such a conspicuous figure in Irving's " Astoria." ■;f ACROSS TUB ROCKY SIOUNTAINS, ETC. 245 - , CHAPTER XV. ^ village of Kayouse Indians— their occupation— appearance ami dresses of the women— family ivorihip — its good effects — Visit la the Blue mountains — Dusky grouse— Return to Walla-walla — Jlirival of Mr. McLeod, and the missionaries — Letters from home — Death of Antoine Goddin, the trapper — A renegado white man— Assault by the Walla-walla Indians— Missionary duties — Passage doien the Columbia— Rapids — A dog for supper — Prairies on fire — A nocturnal visit — Fishing Indians — Their romantic appearance — Salmon huts — The shoots — Dangerous navigation — Death of Tilki — Seals — Indian stoicism and contempt of pain—Skookitom, the strong chitf—his death — Maiming, an evidence of grief — Arrival at Fort Vancouver— A visit to Fort George— Indian cemeteries — Lewis and Clarke's house — A medal- Visit to Chinook — Hospitality of the Indians — Chinamus^ house— The idol— Canine inmates. I figure in July 26th. — At noon, to-day, we arrived at the Utalla, or Emmitilly river, where we found a large village of Kayouse In- dians, engaged in preparing kamas. Large quantities of this root were strewed about on mats and buffalo robes ; some in a crude state, and a vast quantity pounded, to be made into cakes for winter store. There are of the Indians, about twelve or fifteen lodges. A very large one, about sixty feet long by fifteen broad, is occupied by the chief, and his immediate family. This man I saw when I arrived at Walla-walla, and I have accepted an invitation to make my home in his lodge while I remain here. The house is really a very comfortable one; the rays of the sun are completely excluded, and the ground is covered with buffalo robes. There are in the chief's lodge about twenty women, all busy as usual ; some pounding kamas, others making f 246 NARBA.TIVK OF A JOURNEY lit leathern dresses, moccasins, &c. Several of the younger of these are very good- looking, — I might almost say handHOme. Their heads are of the natural form, — not flattened and contorted in the horrible manner of the Chinooks ; — their faces are in- clining to oval, and their eyes have a peculiorly sleepy and languishing oppearance. They seem as if naturally inclined to lasciviousncss, but if this feeling exists, it is effectually chucked by their self-enacted laws, which are very severe in this reapect, and in every instance rigidly enforced. The dresses of the women, (unlike the Chinooks, they all have dresses,) are of door or antelope skin, more or less ornamented with beads and hy- quds.* It consists of one piece, but the part covering the buHt, projects over the lower portion of the garment, and its edges nro cut into strings, to which a quantity of blue beads arc generally attached. In the evening all the Indians belonging to the village assembled in our lodge, and, with the chief for minister, porformod divine service, or family worship. This, I learn, is their invuri> able practice twice every twenty-four hours, at sunrise in the morning, and aflcr supper in the evening. When all the people had gathered, our large lodge was filled. On entering, every person squatted on the ground, and the clerk (a sort of sub- chieQ gave notice that the Deity would now be addressed. Immediately the whole oudience rose to their knees, and the chief supplicated for about ten minutes in a very solemn, but low tono of voice, at the conclusion of which an amen was pronounced by the whole company, in a loud, swelling sort of groan. Three hymns were then sung, several of the individuals present leading in rotation, and at the conclusion of each, another amen. The chief then pronounced a short exhortation, occupying about fifleen minutes, which was repeated by the clerk at his elbow in a voice loud enough to be heard by the whole assembly. At the * A long wliitu slii'll, of tliv gciius Dentalium, round on tlic coHSt. ACR0R8 THR ROrKV MOVKfAtNi, KTC. 247 conclusion of this, each pardon nmn, and walked to one of the doors of the lodge, whoru, milking n low inclination of his body, and pronouncing the wordH •• tot» «t'fca«," (good night,) to the chief, he departed to liitt homr. I shall hear this corofr ovniv 'hi nnd morning wj.'o i remain, and so far from hmn ii'kifomo, it is ngrocablc to me. It is pleasant to see these poor dcgriidod crrntiircs performing a religious service ; for to siiy nritliiiig of thc! good influence which it will exert in improving their pr«wint condition, it will probably soften and harmonize thoir fiiolingx, and render them fitter sub- jects for the properly qunliOod religious instruction which it is desirable they may some doy rct'divei The next morning, my friend tlie cltief fiirnished me with fresh horses, and I and my attondniit, with two Indian guides, started for a trip to the mountain. Wo pnMcd up one of the narrow valleys or gorges which horn run lit right angles from the alpine land, and as we ascended, the Hceiiery bocnmo more and more wild, and the ground rough and difHcult of pnnsngc, but I had under mc one of the finest horses I ever rode; ho Dcomcd perfectly acquainted with the country ; I had but to givo him his head, and not attempt to direct him, and he carried mo triutnphnntly through every diffi- culty. Immediately as we roncliod tho upper land, and the pine trees, we saw large flocks of the dusky groiiso, (jTf/mo obgnirua,) a num- ber of which we killed. Other hirdu were, however, very scarce. I am at least two months too latrt, nnd I cnnnot too much regret the circumstance. Hero is n mh field for the ornithologist at the proper season. Wo returned to our lodge in the evening loaded with grouse, but with very few spneiineMx fo incrcose my collec- tion. 2Qth. — Early this morning our Indians struck their lodges, and commenced making all their numerous movables into bales for packing on the horses, I flilmired Iho facility and despatch with which this was done ; the women (done worked at it, the '*4' NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY men lolling around, smoking and talking, and not ever once di- recting their fair partners in their tasl Tlie whole camp tra- velled with me to Walia-walla, where we arrived the next day. Sept. lat. — Mr. John M'Leod, a chief trader of the Hudson's Bay Company, arrived this morning from the rendezvous, with a small trading party. I had been anxiously expecting this gentle- man for several weeks, as I intended to return with him to Van- couver. He is accompanied by several Presbyterian missiona- ries, the Rev. Mr. Spalding and Doctor Whitman, with their wives, and Mr. Gray, teacher. Doctor Whitman presented me with a large pacquet of letters from my beloved friends at home. I need not speak of the emotions excited by their reception, nor of the trembling anxiety with which I tore open the envelope and devoured the contents. This is the first intelligence which I have received from them since I left the state of Missouri, and was as unexpected as it was delightful Mr. M'Leod informed me of tK murder of Antoine Goddin, the half-breed trapper, by the Blackfeet Indians, at Fort Hall. — A band of these Indians appeared on the shore o{ the Portneuf river, opposite the fort, headed by a white man named Bird.— This man requested Goddin, whom he saw on the opposite side of the river, to cross to him with a canoe, as he had beaver which he wished to trade. The poor man accordingly embarked alone, and landing near the Indians, joined the circle which they had made, and smoked the pipe of peace with them. While Goddin was smoking in his turn. Bird gave a sign to the Indians, and a volley was fired into his back. While he was yet living, Bird himself tore the scalp from the poor fellow's head, and deli- berately cut Captain Wyeth's initials, N. J. W. in large letters upon his forehead. He then hallowed to the fort people, telling them to bury the carcass if they wished, and immediately went off with his party. // ACR088 THE ROCKV MOUNT AIK8, ETC. 349 Goddin, Hall.— 'ortneuf Bird.— )site side beaver (Tibarked ich they While ndians, t living, nd deli- letters , telling ly went '. This Bird was formerly attached to the Hudson's Bay Com- pany, and was made prisoner by the Blackfect, in a skirmish several years ago. He has since remained with them, and has become a great chief, and leader of their war parties. He is said to be a man of good education, and to possess the most unbound- ed influence over the savago people among whom he dwells. Ho was known to be a personal enemy of Goddin, whom he had sworn to destroy on the first opportunity. We also hear, that three of Captain Wyeth's men who lately visited us, had been assaulted on their way to Fort Hall, by a band of Walla-walla Indians, who, after beating them severely, took from them all their horses, traps, ammunition, and clothing. They were, however, finally induced to return them each a horse and gun, in order that they might proceed to the interior, to get fresh supplies. This was a matter of policy on the part of the Indians, for if the white men had been compelled to travel on foot, they would have come immediately here to procure fresh horses, <&c., and thus exposed the plunderers. Mr. Pambrun is acquainted with the ringleader of this band of marauders, and intends to take the first opportunity of inflicting upon him due punishment, as well as to compel him to mnke ample restitution for the stolen property, and broken heads of the unoffending trappers. I have had this evening, some interesting conversation with our guests, the missionaries. They appear admirably qualified for the arduous duty to which they have devoted themselves, their minds being fully alive to the mortifications and trials inci- dent to a residence among wild Indians ; but they do not shrink from the task, believing it to be their religious duty to engage in this work. The ladies have borne the journey astonishingly ; they look robust and healthy. 3flf. — Mr. M'Leod and myself embarked in a large bat- teau, with six men, and bidding farewell to Mr. Pambrun and the missionaries, were soon gliding down the river. We ran, to-day, 32 200 NARRATIVE OF A JOVRlfUT several rapids, and in the evening encamped about fiAeeu miles below the mouth of the Utnlla river. This running of rapids appears rather a dangerous business to those unaccustomed to it, and it is in reality sufficiently hazard- ous, except when performed by old and skilful hands. Every thing depends upon the men who manage the bow and stern of the boat. The moment she enters the rapid, the two guides lay aside their oars taking in their stead paddles, such as arc used in the management of a canoe. The middle-men ply their oars; the guides brace themselves against the gunwale of the boat, placing their paddles edgewise down her sides, and away she goes over the curling, foaming, and hissing waters, like a race horse. We passed to-day several large lodges of Indians, from whom we wished to have purchased fish, but they had none, or were not willing to spare any, so that we were compelled to purchase a dog for supper. I have said we, but I beg leave to correct my- self, as I was utterly averse to the proceeding ; not, however, from any particular dislike to the quality of the food, (I have eaten it repeatedly, and relished it,) but I am always unwilling, unless when suffering absolute wont, to take the life of so noble and faiihful an animal. Our hungry oarsr^.on, however, appeared to have no such scruples. The Indian called his dog, and he came to him, wagging his tail ! He sold his companion for ten balls and powder! One of our men approached the poor animal with an axe. I turned away my head to avoid the sight, but I heard the dull, sodden sound of the blow. The tried friend and faithful companion lay quivering in the agonies of death at its master's feet. We are enjoying a most magnificent sight at our camp this evening. On the opposite side of the river, the Indians have fired the prairie, and the whole country for miles around is most brilliantly illuminated. Here am I sitting cross-legged on the ACROSS THB ROOKY MOVIfTAINS, ETC. 251 ground, scribbling by the light of tho vast conflagration with as much case as if I had a ton of oil burning by my side ; but my eyes arc every moment involuntarily wandering from the paper before me, to contemplate and admire the grandeur of the dis- tant scene. The very heavens themselves appear ignited, and the fragments of ashes and burning grass-blades, ascending and careering about through the glowing firmament, look like brilliant and glorious birds let loose to roam and revel amid this splendid scene. It is past midnight : every one in tho camp is asleep, and I am this moment visited by half a dozen Indian fishermen, who arc peering ov.i my shoulders, and soliciting a smoke, so that I shall have to stop, and fill my calamet. 5th. — The Indians are numerous along the river, and all engaged in fishing ; as we pass along, we frequently see them posted upon the rocks overhanging the water, surveying the boil- ing and roaring food below, for tho passing r^almon. In most instances, an Indian is seen entirely alone in these situations, often standing for half an hour perfectly still, his eyes rivetted upon the torrent, and his long fish spear poised above his head. The appearance of a solitary and naked aavage thus perched like an eagle upon a cliff, is sometimes, — when taken in connexion with the wild and rugged river scenery, — very picturesque. The spear is a pole about twelve feet in length, at the end of which a long wooden fork is made fast, and between the tines is fixed a barbed iron point. They also, in some situations, use a hand scoop-net, and stand upon scaffolds ingeniously constructed over the rapid water. Their winter store of dried fish is stowed away in little huts of mats and branches, closely interlaced, and also in caches under ground. It is often amusing to see the hungry ravens tearing and tugging at the strong twigs of the houses, in a vain attempt to reach the savory food within. In the afternoon, we passed John Day's river, and encamped about sunset at the " shoots." Here is a very large village of 202 N\RRATIVH OF A JOURNCY Indians, (the sumo that I noticed in my journal, on the passage down,) and wc aru this evening surrounded by some scores of them. , ,'•.*-,: -• 6M. — Wo mado the portogo of the shoots this morning by carrying our boat and baggago across the land, and in half an hour, arrived at one of the upper dallea. Hero Mr. M'Lcod and mysell'debarivcil, and the men ran the dall. Wo walked on ahead to the most dangerous part, and stood upon the rocks about a hundred feet above to observe them. It reuUy seemed exceedingly dangerous to see the bont dashing ahead like light- ning through the foaming und roaring waters, sometimes raised high above the enormous swells, and dashed down again as if she were seeking the bottom with her bows, and at others whirled around and nearly sucked under by the whirlpools constantly forming around her. But she stemmed every thing gallantly, under the direction of our experienced guides, and we soon cm- barked again, and proceeded to the lower dalles. Here it is ut- terly impossible, in the present state of the water, to pass, so that the boat and baggage had to be carried across the whole portage. This occupied the remainder of the day, and we encamped in the evening at a short distance from the lower villages. The Indians told us with sorrowful faces of the recent death of their principal chief, Tilki. Well, thought I, the white man has lost a friend, and long will it be before we see his like again ! The poor fellow was unwell when I last saw him, with a complaint of his breast, which I suspected to be pulmonary. I gave him a few simple medicines, and told him I should soon sec him again. Well do I remember the look of despondency with which he bade me farewell, and begged me to return soon and give him more medicine. About two weeks since he ruptured a blood ves- sel, and died in a short time. We see great numbers of seals as we pass along. Immediately ACRUU TNR ROCKY M0VNTAIN8, ETC. 2fi3 I lately below tliQ Dulles tlioy are particularly abundant, being attracted thither by the vast shoals of salmon which seek the turbulent water of the river. VVc occnsionully shoot one of them as ho raises his dog-liko head almvc the surfaec, but we make no use of them ; they arc only valuable for the large (|uantity of oil which they yield. " ' . We observe on the breasts and bellies of many of the Indians hero, a number of largo red marks, mostly of an oval form, some- times twenty or thirty grouped together. These aio wounds mui'.j by their own hands, to display to their people tho unwavering and stoical resolution with which they can endure pain. A large fold of the skin is taken up with tho fmgcrs, and sliced off with a knife; the surrounding fibre then retreats, and a large and ghastly looking wound remains. Many that I saw to-day are yet scarcely cicatrized. There is a chief here who obtained tho dig- nity which he now enjoys, solely by his numerous and hardy feats of this kind. Ho was originally a common man, and pos- sessed but one wife ; he has now star, and any of the tribe would think themselves honored by his alliance. He is a most gigantic fellow, about six feet four inches in height, and remarkably stout and powerful. The whole front of his person is covered with the red marks of which I have spoken, and he displays with con- siderable pride the two scars of a bullet, which entered the left breast, and passed out below the shoulder blade. Tliis wound he also made with his own hand, by placing the muzsle f bis gun against his breast, an^ pressing the trigger with hia K-c ; and by this last, and most daring act, he was raised to the chief command of all the Indians on the north side of the riv^c. Now that Tilki is no more, he will probably be chosen chi<-f of all the country from the cascades to Walla-walla. I asked him if he felt no fear of death from the wound in his chest, at the time it was inflicted. . He said, no ; that his heart was strong, and that a bullet could never kill him. He told me that he was entirely % # 254 NARRATIVE OF A JOVRNET ^ ^ well in a week afler this occurrence, but that for two days he vomited blood constantly. He is named by the Indians '* Skoo- koom" (the strong.) About six weeks after, Mr. M'Leod, who again returned from a visit to Walla-walla, informed me that the strong chief was dead. A bullet, (or rather two of them,) killed him at last, in spite of his supposed invulnerability. He was shot by one of his people in a fit of jealousy. Skookoom had assisted Mr. M'Leod with his boats across the portage, and, being a chief, he of course received more for the service than a common man. This wretch, who was but a serf in the tribe, chose to be ofiendcd by it, and vented his rage by murdering his superior. He fired a ball from his own gun into his breast, which brought him to the ground, and then despatched him with a second, which he seized from another. So poor Skookoom has passed away, and such is the frail tenure upon which an Indian chief holds his authority and his life. The murderer will no doubt soon die by the hand of some friend or relative of the deceased ; he in his turn will be killed by another, and as usual, the bloody business will go on indefinitely, and may even tend to produce an open war between the rival parties. I saw an old man here, apparently eighty years of age, who had given himself three enormous longitudinal gashes in his leg, to evince his grief for the loss of Tilki. From the sluggishness of the circulation in the body of the poor old creature, combined with a morbid habit, these wounds show no disposition to heal. I dressed his limb, and gave him a strict charge to have it kept clean, but knowing the universal carelessness of Indians in this respect, I fear my directions will not be attended to, and the con- sequence will probably be, that the old man will die miserably. I spokb to him of the folly of such inflictions, and took this oppr)rtunity of delivering a short lecture upon the same subject to the others assembled in his lodge. ^ , ACnCMIM THB KOCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 255 At 11 e'elodk next day we arrived at the cascades, where we mado th@ long portage, and at nine in the evening encamped in Bn aoh grove, ni% miles above Prairie de The. On thfl Sth, reached Vancouver, where we found two vessels whieh had just arrived from England. On the S4th, I embarked in a canoe with Indians for Fort George, and arrived in two days. Here I was kindly received by the luporintcndcnt, Mr. James Birnie, and promised every ouslitBoee in forwarding my views. BQthi^i visited to-day some cemeteries in the neighborhood of the fort, and obtained the skulls of four Indians. Some of the bodies were simply deposited in canoes, raised five or six feet from the ground, tMwt in the forks of trees, or supported on stakes driven into the earthi In these instances it was not difficult to procure the skulls without disarranging the fabric ; but more frequently, thoy WMro nailed in boxes, or covered by a small canoe, which was turned bottom upwards, and placed in a larger one, and the whole covered by strips of bark, carefully arranged over them. It was then necessary to use the utmost caution in removing the eovering, and also to be careful to leave every thing in the same stale In which It was found. I thought several times to day, as I have often done in similar situations before : — Now suppose an Indian were to step in here, and see me groping among the bones of his lUthers, and laying unhallowed hands upon the mouldering remains of his people, what should I say ? — I know well what the Indian would do. He would instantly shoot me, unless I took (ho most effectual measures to prevent it ; but could I have time allowed mo to temporize a little, I could easily dis- avm his h(»stility ond ensure his silenco, by the offer of a shirt or a blanket ( but the difficulty in most cases would be, that in a paroxysm of rage he would put a bullet through your head, and then good bye to temporizing. Luckily for my pursuits in this way, there are at present but few Indians here, and I do not therefore incur 256 NARRATIVE OF A JOVRNET much risk ; were it otherwise, there would be no little danger in these aggressions. '-■' ■ ' ■ The corpses of the several different tribes which are buried here, are known by the difference in the structure of their canoes; and the sarcophagi of the chiefs from those of the common peo- ple, by the greater cure which has been manifested in the arrangement of the tomb. October \^th. — I walked to day around the beach to the foot of Young's bay, a distance of about ten miles, to see the remains of the house in which Lewis and Clark's party resided during the winter which they spent here. The logs of which it is com- posed, are still perfect, but the roof of bark has disappeared, and the whole vicinity is overgrown with thorn and wild currant bushes. One of Mr. Birnie's children found, a few days since, a large silver medal, which had been brought here by Lewis and Clark, and had probably been presented to some chief, who lost it. On one side was a head, with the name " Th. Jefferson, Presi- dent of the United States, 1801." On the other, two hands interlocked, surmounted by a pipe and tomahawk; and above the words, " Peace and Friendship." 16//1. — This afternoon I embarked in a canoe with Chintimus, and went with him to his residence at Chinook. The chief wel- comed mc to his house in a style which would do no discredit to n more civilized person. His two wives were ordered to make 'a bed for me, whl^h they did by piling up about a dozen of their soft mats, and placing my blankets upon them, and a better bed I should never wish for. I was regaled, before I retired, with sturgeon, salmon, wappatoos, cranberries, and every thing else that the mansion afforded, and was requested to ask for any thing I wanted, and it should be furnished me. Whatever may Ijc said derogatory to these people, I can testify that inhospitality is not among the number of their failings. I never went into the ■«. ACROSS THE BOCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 257 house of an Indian in my life, in any part of the country, with- out being most cordially received and welcomed. The chiefs house is built in the usual way, of logs and hewn boards, with a roof of cedar bark, and lined insido with mats. The floor is boarded and matted, and there is a depression in the ground, about a foot in depth and four feet in width, extending the whole length of the building in the middle, where the fires are made. ; In this, as in almost every house, there is a large figure, or idol, rudely carved and painted upon a board, and occupying a conspicuous place. To this figure many of the Indians ascribe supernatural powers. Cliinamus says that if he is in any kind of danger, and particularly, if he is under the influence of an evil spell, he has only to place himself against the image, and the difficulty, of whatever kind, vanishes at once. This certainly savors of idolatry, although I believe they never address the uncouth figure as a deity. Like all other Indians, they acknow- ledge a great and invisible spirit, who governs and controls, and to whom all adoration is due. Attached to this establishment, are three other houses, simi- larly constructed, inhabited by about thirty Indians, and at least that number of dogs. These, although very useful animals in their place, are here a great nuisance. They are of no possible service to the Indians, except to cat their provisions, and fill their houses with fieas, and a stranger approaching the lodges, is in constant danger of being throttled by a legion of fierce brutes, who are not half as hospitable as their masters. I remained here several days, making excursions through the neighborhood, and each time when I returned to the lodge, the dogs growled and darted at me. I had no notion of being bitten, so I gave the Indians warning, that unless the snarling beasts were tied up when I came near, I would shoot every one of them. The threat had the effect desired, and after this, when- 33 4 258 NARRATIVE OF A JOVHNET ever I approached the lodges, there was a universal stir among the people, and the words, " iskam Jeahmooks, iskam kahmooha, kalalcalah tie chahko," (take up your dogs, take up your dogs, the bird chief ta coming,) echoed through the little village, and was followed by the yelping and snarling of dozens of wolf-dogs, and " curs of low degree," all of which were gathered in haste to the cover and protection of one of the houses. \! i I ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 259 CHAPTER XVI. JVorthern excursion— Large ahoala oftalmon — Indian mode of catching them— Boute near the beach— Flathead children— A storm on the bay— Loss of pro- vision — Pintail ducks— Simple nw.-V of killing salmon— Retvrn to Chinook- Indian garrtdity^Return to Fort George — Preparations for a second trip to the Sandieich Islands — Detention within the cape — Aruciety to depart — The tropics, and tropic birds— Make the island of Maui — Arrival at Oahu — Accession to the society — A visit with Mr. Cowie to the king — Illness (jf the princess, Marieta JVahienaena — Abrupt exit of the king—A ride to fVaititi—'Cocoanut grove — JK'ative mode of climbing— Death qf the princess —grief of her people — barbarous ceremonies — Residence in the valley of JVuano—A visit to the palace — Kahiles — Coffin of the princess, and in- scription — appurtenances— ceremony of carrying the body to the church — description of the pageant — dress qfthe king — conclusion of the ceremony. October 1 Ith. — I left Chinook this morning in a canoe with Chinamus, his two wives, and a slave, to procure shelUfish, which are said to be found in great abundance towards the north. We passed through a number of narrow slues which connect the numerous bays in this part of the country, and at noon debarked, left our canoe, took our blankets on our shoulders, and struck through the midst of a deep pine forest. After walking about two miles, we came to another branch, where we found a canoe which had been left there for us yesterday, and embarking in this, we arrived in the evening at an Indian house, near the sea- side, where we spent the night. In our passage through some of the narrow channels to-day, we saw vast shoals of salmon, which were leaping and curvetting 800 NARRATIVR OF A JOTTRNBV about in every direction, and not unfrcquently duHliing llinir noses against our canoe, in their headlong course. Wo met hero a number of Indians engaged in fishing. Their mode of taking the salmon is a very simple one. The whole of the tackle co». sists of a pole about twelve feet long, with a largo iron hook oltached to the end. This machine they keep constantly trailing in the water, and when the fish approaches the surface, by a quick and dexterous jerk, they fasten the iron into bis Ntdo, and shake him uif into the canoe. They say tboy take no many fish that it is necessary for them to land about three times a day to deposit them. The house in which wo sleep to-night is not near ho com- fortable as the one wo have leil. It stinks intolerably of Hulnion, which are hanging by scores to the roof, to dry in the Niiioke, and our bed being on the dead level, we shall probably sulfer somewhat from fleas, not to mention another unmentionable inNcct which is apt to inhabit these dormitories in considerable proAiNioii. There are here several young children; beautiful, nut-headed, broad-faced, little individuals. One of the little dears has taken something of a fancy to me, and is now bunging over me, and staring at my book with its great goggle eyes. It is somewhat strange, perhaps, but I have become so accustomed to tliis luii- versal deformity, that I now scarcely notice it. I hovo often been evilly disposed enough to wish, that if in the course of eventN one of these little beings should die, I could get possession of it. I should like to plump the small carcass into a keg of spirits, and send it homo for the observation of the curious. ISth. — Last night the wind rose to a gale, and this morning it is blowing most furiously, making the usually culm water of these bays so turbulent as to be dangerous for our light erall. Notwithstanding this disadvantage, the Indians were in favor of starting for the sea, which we accordingly did at an early hour. Soon ufter we left, in crossing one of the bays, about three-iiuar* AOKOHH TIIR IKXIKV MntfflTAINi), RTf!. 2ni , mid luwhut iini- oftnii VlilltN of it. tiritH, turs of a milo in wiiltli, tlio watiir Niiildorily Ihiciiitio 80 agitated as at first nearly to upHitt our rancM!. A [KirDict hurricano was blowing right alioad, (!old nn \vv, and tliti water was dashing over us, and into our llttln hark, in a inarnior to frighten even the experienced chief who wiih acting uh helnutman. In a few minutes wo were sitting nearly M|i to our waistbands in water, although one of the women and niyself were (constantly bailing it out, employing liir tht! purpose the only two liats belonging to the party, my own and that itl' tho chief. We arrived at the shore at length in safety, although (hero was scarcely a dry thread on us, and built u tremendoM»* fire with the drill-wood which we found on the bcwdi. We then dried our clothes and blankets as well as we could, cooked Notne ducks that we killed yesterday, and made a hearty breakfast. IVIy stock of broad, sugar, and tea, is completely spoiled by the salt water, so that until I return to Fort G(!orge, I must live simply ; but I think this no hardship : what has been donu onett itan Ist done again. In the adcrnoon the women collei^ted for mo a considerable number of shells, several species (»f Cardiiim, Citherea, Oatrca, &.C., all edible, and the last very good, though small. The common pintail duck, (AnUH uvula,) is found here in vast flocks. The chief and rnywtif killed twenty-six to-day, by a simultaneous discharge of our guns. They are exceedingly fat and most excellent eating ; indeed all the game of this lower country is far superior to that Ibund in the neighborhood of Van- couver. The du(doval to Maui. Yesterday the king sent invitations, through the consuls, to all the foreign residents and visiters, and at one o'clock to-day, all were assembled at the palace. The coffin still remained in the situation in which I last saw it, surrounded by the kahiles. The house was well filled by foreigners and natives of rank, and the large enclosure without was crowded. The common men were variously attired, but the great concourse of women were clothed in black from head to foot. After we had waited about an hour, # % 272 NABRATIVE OP A JOUHNEY the king, and Leicahoku, (the husband of the deceased,) entered. The foreigners all uncovered their heads, and his majesty ac- knowledged the civility by removing his own hat, and making a low and very graceful bow. He was most magnificently attired in a fine blue regimental coat, richly embroidered with gold and silver lace, and two splendid gold epaulets on the shoulders. His pantaloons were of very delicate white cassimere, embroidered down the scams with gold lace, and from a crimson sash de- pended a beautiful, and highly ornamented dress sword, the scabbard of which was of fine gold. His chapeau bras was in keeping with the rest of his attire, being of black beaver, orna- mented with broad bands of gold filligrce.* y. The tout ensemble was in the highest degree magnificent and kingly, ond he wore the dress with most becoming dignity. His age is about two and twenty, his stature five feet ten, nnd the proportions of his person are most decidedly and strictly symme- trical. Like most of the chiefs, he appears to be inclining to obesity, and will probably in a few years lose much of the beauty of his form. He is now, however, one of the most graceful and dignified men in his appearance that I ever beheld. Young Pitt has a good, and rather handsome face, but the graces of his person joar no comparison with those of his brothcr-inlaw. His attire was also rich, with uniform coat, epaulets, chapeau bras and sword, and all the high chiefs were nearly similarly habited. The procession was headed by a band of yery good music. : i4 * Tills most s|>lenili(1 nnil appropriate uniform was presented some years ago to tlie king, by siibsuription of the foreign residents at Oaliti. It was miidf in Lima, and cost ciglit liundred dollars ! 'I'lie presentation is said to have been rather im- posing. It took place at the palace, and most of the high chiefs were present. Mr. Jones made a S|iecch on liie oecaMion, which was promptly replied to by his majesty. # music, rs ago to I in Lima, Ulier im- eiit. Mr. Ilo l>y his ACROSS THE ROCKY MOCNTAINS, ETC. 273 most of the perfortners being negroes. Next followed the missionaries in double file ; then the hearse, which was a small plain cart, drawn by about twenty natives. Next came the king, who walked immediately behind the coffin ; he was followed closely by young Pitt, also alone, and then came the high chiefs, men and women, to the number of about thirty, in double file. On either side of the hearse, the magnificent kahiles were borne aloft by a number of the sub-chiefs, and favorites of the royal household, and so enormously heavy were some of these, par- ticularly when the wind struck them, that each of them required the utmost exertion of four or five strong men to keep it in a vertical position. After the chiefs, followed all the respectable foreigners, two and two, headed by the consuls, to the number of perhaps a hundred ; then a long line of females, all habited in deep black, and the roar was brought up by a motley throng of all denominations, and in every variety of costume. From the head of the processionj nearly to the foot on each side, walked the king's guards in Indian file. They were dressed in a com- plete suit of white, with red and blue cuffs to their jackets, and every man carried his musket reversed. When the lino was formed, the band played a solemn dead march, and the proces- sion moved toward the native church at the lower end of the town. During the v I i.ole distance, about a mile, the ground had been strewn with fresh grass, forming a pleasant carpet, and prevent- ing, in a great measure, the rising of clouds of dust, which would otherwise have been very uncomfortable. The whole pageant was " got up" with the greatest splendor and was conducted with singular order and regularity, nothing occurring which in the slightest degree tended to produce con- fusion. When the procession arrived at the church, the music ceased ; a large bell which hangs in the area, was tolled every ten se- conds, and the whole company entered the house and sought 35 %' 274 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY their scats. The bier was placed on the ground oppottito tho pulpit, the king and the other chiefs sitting by the side of it, and the bearers lineeiing beneath the cart. The service vim oporicd by an address in the native language by the Rev. Mr. Binglmin ; this was followed by hymns, short addresses, and prayers alter- nately, by several other missionaries who were present. At Hio conclusion of the service, which occupied about one and a half hours, the procession again formed, and returned in the unxm order to the palace, when, after a short prayer, in t! ; native luij. guage, from Mr. Bingham, the cavalcade dispersed. ACROSi Tim ROOKV MflVNTAINS, RTC. 275 4 CHAPTKtt XVII. Embarkation for a tour qftht Ulundi^tMiilna—ForU—Ijahainaluna—Mis. sioiiavies qf Maui— High tehmil—Pragi'tn tf the pupili—Karakakua bay— Kairua—Cook't rock~'r»v»rtini;t nf the native* for his memory— Cook's monument— Jiiids — KawiUhae—Vuliissat mountains— JMrs. Young— J/eiau, or native temple — Human aar.vlJicii»—Murut—.tteatltenish riles — A cargo of cat- tle— Unsavory practice qf the natlv$ womm—lhparture from Oahu — «? sail by moonlight— Dean's Island-^Jl " eomptaitant"— Arrival at Tahiti— J^ative pilot— Papeeti bay— Jlppiuvunee iiflh» shore— Visit from foreigners — ^ ram- ble on shore — Orange groves, i^c,—^ young native songster— Visit to the queen— Mr. PritcharJ, the mliitonury—J^ative service — The chapel—^ bedridden Tahaitian—Junglf foit'ls— tanvg the harbor — Dangerous naviga- tion — ^ uarroiu escape— ,>l shlimvH'k, 9th. — Mr. French kiniUy ollhrnil mo a passage in his brig Diana, Captain Hinckley, to mukn n whort tour oi" the islands. The object of the trip is to carry lutnbur to several of the ports, to trade with the nativon, and to bring to Oahu a cargo of live stock, cattle, &c. The timo ullowod will bo so short that I shall probably not bo able to do inuuli in my vocation, but I shall at least be furnished with im opportunity of visiting several islands, and as we have pleasant coniptmion« as passengers, besides our agreeable and accomplished captttiti, we anticipate a delightful trip. We stood out of the harbor in iho nllcrnoon, and the next evening made Maui, but hh wu cttmn under the land it fell cairn, with a heavy ground swell, and m< were tdssing about mosa un- comfortably the whole nighl. fiyl^' -^^^ m:- 276 NARRATIVB OF A JOURNEY lAth. — Yesterday we made Maui again, after having been cruising around the islands at the mercy of contrary winds, since Friday. Several of our passengers have been constantly sea- sick, and our anticipated pleasure has been thus very much les- sened. When I rose this morning, we were off the pretty village of Lahaina, and in about two hours after, we dropped our anchor within half a mile. While the ship's people were engaged in discharging cargo, Mr. Paty, (one of our passsengers,) and myself went ashore to see the town. The village is one of the prettiest I have seen : many of the houses are built of stone, handsomely whitewashed, and, as at Honoruru, a very picturesque looking fort frowns upon you as you approach the anchorage. These forts, although they add greatly to the appearance of the harbors in which they are situated, yet appear to me to be better calculated for show than service, as in case of an attack from the sea, they could not act efficiently, not being provided with bastions; and in addition to this, they are built in such a loose and unsubstantial manner, that the very means of defence would be more fatal than even the fire of an enemy. A cannonading from the fort, if long persisted in, would almost certamly level the walls with the ground. The houses, composing the village of Lahaina, are, many of them, ' so obscured bycocoanut andkou trees, (Cordiase6es/ena,) that you cannot see the whole of the town from any single point of view, even from the offing. On a high hill, two miles back of the town, stands another village, called Lahainaluna, (or upper Lahaina,) composed ; itirely of white stone houses. It is here that the mission- aries chiefly reside. The high school here is a large building of stone, thatched with grass, and stands on an elevated piece i^t' ground, so as to be distinctly seen some miles out at sea. I called, with Mr. Paty, upon Mr. Andrews, to whom I had a letter !i: ACB088 THE BOCKV MOUNTAINS, ETC. 277 of introduction from the Rev. Mr. Dieill, and hero I met several other missionaries, Mr. Baldwin, Mr. Rogers, and Mr. Dibble. These gentlemen arc all more or less concerned in the manage- ment of the high school, but Mr. Andrews is the principal. It was commenced by him in the year 1831. For some time it was held under a simple ranai, or shed, made of grass, and since then it has gone on increasing and improving with a ra> pidity almost unprecedented. It now consists of about seventy* five scholars, chiefly boys, and the improvement of many of them is surprising. From all that I can learn, (for the school ia at present closed, and I have not had an opportunity of seeing the pupils,) the advancement manifested by them is fully equal, in every respect, to those of similar seminaries in our own country. Attached to this branch of the mission is a printing office, in which the operatives are natives, under the superintendence of Mr. Rogers. Mr. Andrews showed us impressions of maps of diflerent parts of the world, which have been engraved on copper by the pupils. These efforts are exceedingly creditable, not only to the boys themselves, but to their tutors, showing the untiring perseverance with which they must have labored, especially as none of them had ever before seen the operation performed. Mr. Andrews is a very indefatigable and most superior man, as his works abundantly testify. Contending, as he constantly is, against indisposition, he attends most diligently and faithfully to the peculiarly arduous duties of the school, and during the very few hours of relaxation which each day affords, he is busily en- gaged in writing for the benefit of the mission, and its objects, He is the author of " A Vocabulary of the Hawaiian Language," published at these islands some years since, and he is now eoi. ployed on a new and much enlarged edition of the same work. On the morning of the 17th, we made the island of Hawaii, and, approaching with a free wind, soon let go our anchor in the bay of Kardkakva, The land here is composed almost entirely of 278 NARRATIVE OF A JOVRNKY (I '**'""^i tj: rough and irregular mnsses of lava, but towards the sununit of the hills, as in Oaliu, vegetation is abuudnnt. The slioro, tor miles, in both directions, is sprinkled with the little sylvan look- ing hamlets of this country, and they arc somotimea so thickly grouped together, us to form the most picturesque and bc'iitiful villager. On the hill fronting the bay is one of these, at which the missionary, Mr. Forbes, resides, iind about eighteen miles from this, there is a considerable town called Kairua, the resi- dence of the chief, John Adams, governor of Hawaii. In the afternoon Mr. Paty and myself went on shore, chiefly for the purpose of seeing the spot on which Captain Cook was killed, in the year 1779. When we made this inquiry after we landed, a number of na- tives ran to the beach, and pointed out to us the exact spot whero the gallant mariner received his death blow. I need not attempt to describe, for my sisters can in a measure understand the emo- tion with which I viewed the rock on which this brave and excel- lent man ofiorod up his life in the service of his country. I had road the voyn^^os of Cook, with great interest, when I was a chill'; I had pi ndercd over his dangers, his magnificent dis- coveries, the intense excitement of his life, and his premature and violent death, but if at that time any one had told me that I should ever visit the scene of his discoveries, and stand upon the identical rock which was pressed by his bleeding bosom, I should have smiled at it as too chimerical for belief; here I am, however, although at times I can scarcely realize the possibility of it. The rock is somewhat isolated, and at high tide the water breaks over its summit. It is said to be at present not one- fourth its original size, as almost every visiter, for a number of years, has been in the habit of carrying away a fragment of it as a relic. A French man-of-war, which was lately here, is said to have taken off about a ton of it ; and some Spaniards, ACR088 TIIR ROOKY MOVNTAINH, KTC. 279 B sununit of a s'aoro, for lylvan look- I so thickly nd bf.iMtiiul sc, at which ;htccn milea ua, the rcsi- lii. In tho iefly for the as killed, in mher of na- ;t spot where 1 not attempt ind the emo- e and excel- itry. I had ion I was a nificcnt dis- s premature d me that I nd upon the om, I should here I am, possibility 3 the water at not one- r a number fragment of tely hern, is Spaniards, who visifr'd tho island several years since, not only took speci- mens of the rock, but tho whole ship's company knelt upon it, and oflbrcd up a prayer for the repose of the hero's soul. There is perhaps no one unfortunate circumstance connected with foreigners, that has ever occurred lierc, which tho natives of these islands so deeply regret, as the death of Cook. They all speak of it as a lamentable event, ond sonif of the elder of them are snid even to shed tears when the subject is mentioned. They have canonized him, and he is universally kn by the title of " Oiono," a particular deity. ^ Ibth. — This morning I met Mr. Forbes, th(! missionary of this station, at the lower village, and allcr delivering to him a letter from Mr. Dioill, accompanied him to his house on the hill, a dis- tance of three miles. At about one mile from the shore on tho hill is a monument, erected in 1825 by Lord Byron, Captain of his Britannic majesty's frigate " Blond," to the memory of Captain Cook. It consists of a simple wall of lava about five feet high, embracing a square of twenty feet, in the centre of which is a cedar post, twelve feet in height, and near the top a copper plate, with this inscription: " In memory of Captain James Cook, R. N., Who discovered these Islands, in the year of our Lord, 1778. This humble monument is erected by his fellow countrymen, in the year of our Lord, 1825." This post is completely covered with the initials of persons who have from time to time visited the spot, chiefly the masters. <^, IMAGE EVALUATION TEST TARGET (MT-3) z ^ 74^ 1.0 v^^ ■UUi- — iy& |L25|..4,,.6 6" ^ ► ff%j /. > > '/ <^ Photographic Sciences Corporation 23 WEST MAIN STREET WEBSTER, N.Y. MSSO (716)873-4503 ^ ^io 280 NABRATIVB OF A JOURNEY officers, and crews of vessels, and among them I noticed the well known name of *' Coffin, Nantucket." 2Qth. — Mr. Paty and myself spent the day in traversing the extensive forests of this island, in search of birds, but with very little success. The walking was extremely difficult, and some- times dangerous, in consequence of a thick undergrowth of bushes, intermixed with large masses of rough, porous lava. There is here a small species of crow, said to be numerous at times, but we did not see any, as, in consequence of a long drought, they, as well as most other birds, have retired back into the mountains to procure water. We returned to Mr. Forbes' house late in the afternoon, and found him preparing his baggage, &c., for a passage to Oahu in our brig. He takes his wife and two children with him. -^:\ • 22(2. — ^We sailed out of Karakakua last evening with the periodical land breeze, and this morning, at 9 o'clock, anchored oSKawaihae. This is a barren and most unattractive looking place, a rambling sort of village, containing about fifty houses, but no vegetation except a few scattered cocoanuts, and an occasional kou, and tutui tree. The soil is composed entirely of volcanic earth, or the pulverization of lava and basalt. I observed none of the handsome taro patches here that form such a relief to the eye when scanning this rugged country in other places. From our anchorage we have a view of several of the colossal mountains and peaks of this island, among which the majestic point of Mauna kea stands pre-eminent. I have not yet seen Mauna roa, except from a considerable distance at sea, and I suppose that now the gratification of a nearer view will not be afforded me. I cannot too much regret that I have had no opportunity of visit* ing this celebrated and stupendous volcano. 23d. — Yesterday morning I went on shore with Captain Hinckley and others, and called upon Mrs. Young, widow of the late John Young, the oldest foreign resident of the Sandwich ACROSS THK ROOKY NOVNTAINI, MTO. 281 Captain I of the idwich Islands. He came hither in the year 17^9, remaining until his death, which took place about a yenr ngo, in his 00th year. Mrs. Young is a sister of old king Tnrnnhamehn, and is now probably sixty years of age, 4 very plouitnnt and lady>like old woman. In the afternoon we visited a largo heiau, or temple, in the neighborhood. This temple, (which of courne has not been used as such since the abolition of idolatry) wnit built in the early part of the reign of Tamehameha ; In it wero deposited the gods of wood and stone, which the nativoa worshipped, and at regular periods, a human victim was oflbred Ri n HacriAce to their ima- ginary deity. The victims consisted chiefly of convicts, or those who had been guilty of some misdemeanor, but whenever the stock commonly kept on hand, failed, (which not unOequently happened,) the authorities rarely scrupled to supply the deficiency, either by forcing the common people to commit crimes worthy of the punishment, or by entrapping them into a eonfossion of some petty transgression. It was also a common practice to sneriflco a victim on the death of any of the higher chiefs, to propitiate the favor of the idol toward the departed. At such times thoy were even less scrupulous than ordinary ; a victim mu»t be procured for the re- pose of the troubled spirit, and it was therefore fVequently made an excuse for the most open and cruel injustice. The heiau is built of stones laid together, enclosing a square of about two hundred feet. The walls nro thirty feet high, and about sixteen feet thick at the base, from which they gradually taper to the top, where they are about four feet across. In the centre, is a platform of smooth stones, earellilly laid together, but without any previous preparation, raised to within ten feet of the top of the wall. It was on this platlbrm that the victims were sacrificed, the gods standing around outside in niches made for their accommodation. 36 / % 389 NARRATIVE Of A JOURNEY There is, near the heiau, another very similar, though smaller edifice of stone, called a tM»rau This was used for nearly similar purposes, and, in addition, it was the place to which the bodies of the dead chiefs were carried, previous to in- terment. Ailer lying here in state for a longer, or shorter time, according to the grade of rank held by the deceased, the flesh was stripped from the bones, and buried in the sea ; the bones were then taken and deposited in caves, or subterranean vaults, which concluded the ceremony. On Oahu, near Diamond hill, in the district of Waititi, are several of these morais, but they have gone to decay, and are not so perfect as the above men- tioned one. 24-. *., ACROSS THE ROCKY HOVMTAINS, ETC. 283 copper-colored native, not omitting the intermediate grade of hali castes. Men, women, and children, of various families, are all huddled together in a mass, lolling about, talking and smoking during the day, and sleeping and grunting like swine at night. The effluvia arising from the mass of native bodies, during a 8till,warm evening, is not comparable to otto of roses, and I have oHen been compelled to forego the pleasure of a nocturnal lounge on deck, and dive to the cabin for purer air. This effluvia is owing to a common habit among these people, and particularly of the women, of anointing the hair and body with cocoanut oil. The oil, in a recent state, possesses an aromatic, and rather agreeable odor, but when allowed to become rancid, it is most insufferably rank and disgusting. When in this rancid state, its cosmetic properties are supposed to be improved, and it is then applied in large quantities to the whole person. Were it not for this disagreeable and unsavory practice, the women here would be well calculated to please the taste of a stranger, as many of them are truly handsome, and remarkably graceful in their deportment. I believe that most of those who are married to the foreigners have given up this disgusting practice. On the 27th we anchored in the harbor of Oahu, and from this time, until the 16th of March, I was busily engaged in pack- ing my multifarious collections, making calls upon my friends, &c., preparatory to embarking for Valparaiso, via Tahiti, in the ship Europa, Captain Shaw, of this port. I have now been here nearly three months ; much longer than I expected to have been detained. My time has been employed chiefly in pursuing my scientific avocations, collecting specimens, &c., in which I have been us successful as I anticipated. In this pursuit I have received much and very steady assistance from many of the resident foreigners, and, as a parting word, I wish them to accept my most unfeigned thanks, both for this and for the uniform hospitality and kindness with which they have treated y«^ B> 284 ITAHRATIVE OF A JOrRNET me. To J. C. Jones, Esq., — the American consul, — my acknow- ledgements are particularly due. I shall always remember, with gratitude, the many favors he has conferred upon me. 18/A. — ^We cleared Oahu yesterday, and this evening, are sailing along delightfully before an eight knot breeze. I think that of all enjoyments I have ever experienced since I became a dweller in distant lands, there is none that has ever excited in me such a thrill of delight and pleasure, as an evening sail upon a moon-lit soa. I can hang for hours over the gunwale, as the ship ploughs the deep blue waters ; I gaze upon the lovely moon, and turn my face towards my father-land, and then, oh then, do I fancy I can see my quiet, peaceful home, and commune with the loved objects there ! All, all rise before me with a distinctness at times almost startling. I see my excellent and afiectionate father, my beloved and tender mother, my dear sisters, brothers, all whom I love, and I think I can see them beckoning to the wanderer, and entreating him to turn his footsteps homeward. These images have risen before me, this evening, with uncom- mon vividness. It is now eight bells in the middle watch ; the officer is pacing the quarter deck, muffled in his large pea jacket, the helmsman stands by the wheel, the drowsy watch are lolling on the forecastle, and all else are asleep. But I can- not sleep, nor would I if I could, on such a glorious night as this. - '- . ■ ^ . . J ; . 1 April Ist. — Nothing important has occurred to vary the mo- notony of a sea voyage. We have generally been favored with good breezes, though the sea has been mostly rough. On Thursday last, we crossed the line, and our latitude is now 3° 52' south. 8th. — Yesterday morning at 10 o'clock, « Zand, ho /" was sung out by a man at the mast head, and we ascertained it to be Dean's island, distant about fifteen miles. We had a fine seven knot breeze, and we rapidly approached, and soon passed it f. ACROSS THB ROCKY HOVMTAIHS, ETC. 285 within five miles. This is a very long, low island, profusely co- vered with vegetation, very undulating, and with a fine sand l)each surrounding it, upon which the surf breaks furiously. It is said to be sparsely inhabited by people of a very wild and unsocial nature. Ships rarely, if ever, touch here, as the island produces Quthing to tempt the cupidity of our mariners. In the evening we had a heavy squall, with rain, and incessant and very vivid lightning. We shortened sail immediately, and lay to, under a double reefed maintopsail and reefed foresail, for about an hour, when the gale subsided, and a dead calm of about the same duration succeeded. Duriiig the storm, we observed a little speck of brilliant light, like a star, resting upon the main truck or top of the mainmast. In a few minutes af\er, a similar light appeared upon the summits of both the other masts, and continued visible for about an hour. This is what sailors call a " cotnplaiaant" and is of course occasioned by an excess of elec- tricity in the atmosphere. I - . In the afternoon we made Tahiti, (or Otaheite,) and the next morning approached to within two miles of it, brought our vessel to, in a fine breeze, and hoisted our signal for a pilot. After waiting about two hours, a native, who spoke English well, board- ed us in a whale boat, and announced himself as authorized pilot of the port. The charge of the vessel was of course given into his hands, and in another hour we were riding at anchor in a beautiful, and very safe harbor. Tahiti, like most islands in these seas, is nearly surrounded by a coral reef, a narrow passage only being found for entrance, but the native pilot appears to be skilful, and I am told that no accident has ever happened here. The outline of this island is exceedingly uneven and rugged, being formed of high hills and valleys alternately, but the whole of the lond is profusely covered with vegetation. The bay in which we are anchored, (Papeete,) is one of the most beautiful I have seen ; the water in the harbor is at all times so smooth and 386 NARRATIVB OF A JOVRNEY placid that no motion whatever can be felt on board a vessel rid- ing at anchor, and the shore, fringed with cocoanut, bread>fruit, and banana trees, with the neat white-washed cottages sprinkled amongst them, forms a view at once striking and lovely. There are about eight whale ships now in the port, and several of the masters of these, as well as some resident gentlemen from the shore, visited us shortly ailer we came to anchor. Among the latter were the missionary of this station, the Rev. Mr. Pritchard, Doctor Vaughan, Mr. William Henry and others. Soon afler, Mr. Skinner, the supercargo, and myself, went on shore, and called upon Mr. Moerenhaut, the U. S. consul, to whom I had a letter of introduction from Mr. Jones of Oahu. He received us kindly, and we spent an hour with him very plea- santly. We partook of a good dinner at the house of Mr. Henry, afler which Mr. Skinner and several other gentlemen with myself, took a stroll back of the village. If I was pleased with the appearance of the harbor from the anchorage, how much morewas I dalighted with the opportunity of rambling in the interior. Soon after we left the house, we entered upon an excellent turnpike road made by na- tives, chiefly convicts, and extending nearly the whole circuit of the island. This, as is almost every part of this lovely isle, is a complete orchard of the most delicious of the tropical fruits ; vast groves of oranges, lemons, guavas, &c. &c., growing wild, and in the most prodigal profusion, patches of pine apples, inter- minable forests of bananas, cocoanuts, and VVs,* and all with- out an owner. Well may it be said, this is a highly favored, and most fruitful land. The natives do not require to cultivate the earth ; it teems with every luxury that their unrophisticated palates crave. For a meal, they have but to enter the forest, and gather a mess of bread-fruit, bananas, and guavas, and kill ^ pig from the large droves which are constantly roaming the * This is the Spotidias dulcits o( botanists ; a large and wide spreading forest tree, bearing a most delicious fruit, somewhat like a pear, and about the same size. ACROSS TUB ROCKY NOUNTAIM8, ETC. 287 country, in a half wild state, and fattening to obe!=ity on the ripe and luscious fruit which every where strews the ground. . 10th. — I strolled, during the whole of this day, through the woods, and prociued a number of very pretty birds, all new to me. In this expedition I was accompanied by a stout boy, a Sandwich Islander, whom I have engaged as my servant while I remain. This is a convenience, inasmuch as I am not acquainted with the language of the Tahitians, but am sufficiently familiar with that of the Sandwich Islanders, to ask for whatever I want, and understand ordinary conversation. In my ramble through the forest to-day, I was surprised to hear a stave of the old familiar song, Jim Crow, sung by a little puling voice, but with singular fidelity of tone and time, and after a short search, I perceived a little naked native girl, of not more than four years of age, washing her only calico garment in a creek which flowed by, and amusing herself at her work, by singing " wheel about, and turn about, and do just so." The child attempted to escape when she found she was observed, but I caught her, and by dint of persuasion, and the offer of a rial, induced her to sing several verses to me. I2th. — I went, with the consul, to the palace of the queen, Pomard Wahine, (or the woman Pomar^.) The house did not differ, except in being somewhat larger, from the ordinary » i; ,ive habitations, and her majesty could not have been distinguisiiid. by her appearance, from the poorest woman in her dominions. Her complexion is somewhat fairer than that of the generality, and the expression of her countenance is pleasing. She was dressed, like the maids of honor who surrounded her, in a loose wrapper of calico, but without any kind of ornament about her person, and her feet were bare. I was informed that she dis- liked all show and ostentation, and that she never donned her queenly garments except upon occasions of state or high ceremo- nial. Her husband is a young man of prepossessing appearance. I 98S NARRATIVB OF A JOURNEY who has been selected from the common ranks for his good looks. He is not burthened with the cares of sovereignty, and if his wife were to die, would return immediately to the humble walk from which ho has been elevated. He is universally known by the title of the " queen's husband." 15th. — This day, although with us, in our ship account, Satur- day the 16th, is Sunday the 16th, at Tahiti. This is accounted for by the fact of the early missionaries having made the passage around the Cape of Good Hope instead of Cape Horn, and making no allowance for easting, consequently gained nearly a day in their reckoning. The mistake has never since been corrected, and at the present time it would perhaps not beadviailble to do so. I attended, with most of the gentlemen of the place, the native church, at 9 o'clock in the morning. Mr. Pritchard performed the service, and I was pleased, not only with the order and re- gularity of the exercises, but with the strict and decorous deport- ment of the audience. The hymns were sung with much taste and skill, and many of the voices, particularly of the females, were sweet, and well trained. The chapel is a very neat and pretty piece of workmanship, somewhat in the style of those at the Sandwich Islands, but more tasteful and lighter. The roof, instead of a thatch of grass, is neatly covered with the large leaves of a species of Pandanus, hand- somely and ingeniously worked on light reeds, and the beams are wrapped, for about one-fourth of their length, with alternate strips of fine sinnit and mats of different colors, and adds very much to the general appearance of the building. 20th. — I observed to-day near the beach, in front of the village, an old, delapidated cottage, the trellised sides of which had fallen to pieces from decay, and I was surprised to hear issue from it a few notes of a low and plaintive song. Upon entering, I saw a poor old man lying on a board elevated upon posts about four 41' lanship, more neatly hand- ims are strips (luch to AOlOU THB ROOKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 280 feet from the ground, with no bedding cxcnpt a small mat, and his long white hair drooping over a sqiiaru wooden block, which was his only pillow. Attached to the rude ceiling, were several baskets of fruit, oranges, bananas, &c., 8us|)ended by cords over the old creature's head, and within reach of his hand. I dis- persed the swine which were wallowing beneath him on the floor, and spoke to the old man. But he heeded me not. His dull eyes seemed fixed upon the fruit baskets over his head, and soon the low and melancholy song was renewed, in a voice palsied and broken from extreme age. It is an immemorial custom of the Tahitians, so to dispose of their old and infirm people. When a man becomes too feeble, from age, to walk, and provide for his own necessities, he is laid out in this way, and furnished daily with a fresh supply of fruit, and a calabash of water, to sustain his flickering life, until the hand of death relieves his relatives from further care. . \, . May 2d. — We are now quite ready for sea, and are only waiting a breeze to go out. I am as anxious as the rest to re- embark, for I have completed my ornithological collections, having prepared about a hundred and ten birds, most of them, I think, peculiar to this island. The common dunghill fowl is found wild in the forests here. Some of the residents think that it is a jungle fowl, peculiar to the country, but, upon examination, I have not been able to per- ceive any material diflerence between it and the domesticated bird, and therefore incline to the belief that it is the common species returned to its original habits. In my excursions, I have killed about a dozen of them. Their plumage is generally more rich and brilliant than that of the domesticated bird, and there is not so much variety in the color of diflerent individuals. Their flesh is exquisite. They are very shy, running away with sin- gular rapidity, and concealing themselves on the approach of the 87 200 If ARHATIVR or A JOirNNRV sportsman. When flushed, they fly with groat vigor and swift* ness, and whore the trees and bushes are not too dense, aflbrd a vory good mark. Ath. — This morning, the wind being fair, we took the pilot on board, and at 8 o'clock, stood out. While in the middle of the passage, the breeze fell very light, and our vessel began to swing towards the high and dangerous reef which was just beside us. For myself, I gave our good ship up for lost, and was waiting to see her dashed upon the rocks, which I thought was inevitable. This was evidently the opinion of our captain also. As he stood upon the rail, looking out ahead, and casting his eyes anxiously upon the sunken rocks under our quarter, I perceived his countenance change ; but still he was calm, and gave his orders, in obedience to the signals of the pilot, with coolness and precision. At the instant when I fancied, (and I believe cor- rectly,) that we were in the most imminent peril, a light breeze struck our sails, which were soon filled, and the ship made some headway ; then followed a strong puff, and in about five minutes more, we were past all danger. The captain sprang down from the rail, ejaculating, " thank God, thank God !" and he had reason. A fine ship, a valuable cargo, and many lives still more voluable, in all probability, depended upon that single puff of wind. 1^ Afler congratulating ourselves upon our escape, we all turned anxiously to look at the situation of a whale ship, which at- tempted the passage a few minutes af\er us, under the direction of a deputy appointed by the authorized pilot. While in difficulty ourselves, we had enough to do to look afler our own ship, but now that it was past, all our sympathy was excited for our fellow probationer. He appeared to have more wind than ourselves, and was coming out beautifully, when suddenly, from a cause to us unknown, he sheered towards the reef, and the next mo- ADHON THM NOOKY MOUNTAIlll, BVC. 9U1 ment, to our oonatornatlon and horror, the fine ihip Mtruok, hung by her kool, nnd Innnnd over 'till her yards wore in the wittor. Sho aoon rightud ngnln, only to go over upon tho other aido. Her mIU war» ■till mii,M\A drow well with tho wind which como iVeahly oflf the lond, but »ho would not move ahead, and kept roll* ing and grinding utK)ii tho rough coral, showing her clean copper bottom at every moment. Tho intense and painf\il interest which wo took in tho situntion of our poor neighbor, would not suffer us to run away nnd leave him in his extremity, and accordingly, Captain Shaw, Mr. Hkinner, md myself went off to him in our boat. When wo arrived, wo found that the whalo boats belong' ing to all tho ships in tho port, had come out with their com- manders and crows to render all the assistance they could to their unfortunate brother. Most of tho boats were made fust to the bowsprit of t)io ship, and it was attempted to tow her off { hawsers wore carrlr>d out, and kedge anchors, and every other means resorted to to got her clear, but all to no purpose. The devoted vessel continued forging higher and higher upon the reef, and in a few minutes more it was found necessary to cut away the masts, in order to lighten and right hnr. I scarcely ever in my life felt ntoro distressed than when I heard this order given ; it was, however, necessary that it should bo done for th«^ sake of tho cargo. The poor ship seemed like a human creature in its agony, tossing nnd groaning as on a bed of pain. A dozen men with axes in thoir hands mounted on the weather rail, and in a minute tho shrouds nnd back-stays were cut away. Tho heavy masts reeled nnd swaged from side to side, for an instant, and then fell with a crash into tho sea. Then indeed "A wrcek complulc slic roH'd." One little hour Itofoio, she had been a noble and stately ship in all the majesty of hor beauty, and contained within many a 292 NABBATIVE OF A JOURNEY manly heart burning with the spirit of enterprise, or dwelling with delight upon the happy home and family which it was then about to seek. How changed the prospect now ! The beautiful fabric is in ruins, and those who risked their all within her, are disheartened and undone. The sight is a melancholy one indeed, and I cannot but think, too, how nearly this deplorable situation had been ours. When the masts went over the side, the ship righted, as if she felt relieved from a burthen, but in a very short time, the cry " she has bilged," arose from her decks, and the people were put to work getting out all the most valuable private articles, and passing them out of the cabin windows. Here they were received in boats and taken on shore. Soon ader this, we observed, as the hull rose and fell, the water pouring in and out of her counter, and very soon she settled upon her side, and lay with one of her gunwales under water, fast anchored upon the coral reef.' Nothing more could be done for her safety, and all the efforts of the crew were directed to getting out the cargo of oil. Mean* while, we who could render no service, concluded to go ashore, and as we were about pushing off from tlie wreck, the captain of the ship requested a passage with us. As we pulled into the harbor, I wished to say something by way of consolation to the poor fellow, but I had no language in which to express my feelings. He is a young man, only twenty seven-years of age, highly spoken offer his activity, perseverance and honesty. He has raised himself from the lowest station to a command, entirely by his good conduct ; this is his first voyage as master, and so far it had been remarkably successful. Afler we led the ship, he seemed more calm, but as we drew near the shore, he trusted himself with one look towards his former home, and it was too much for his philosophy, — he threw himself back in the boat and wept like a child ! I could almost have wept with fl ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. m him, for I appreciated and respected his feelings. A ship is a sailor's home, his castle; he loves her next to his wife and family, and where is the man with a heart in his bosom, who can look upon his home in ruins, and not feel it bleed within him at the sight I '. -i.r. 294 ^^ NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY CHAPTER XVIII. Island of Eimeo—Jmm Fernatidez—JUake the coast of Chili— nt ihore — Town of Valparaiso — suburbs — Indisposition^Kindness qf the foreign resi- ilents, tfc. — Preparation bjf the Chilian government for an expedition against Peru — Foreign adventurers — Disaffection of Vidaurre and other officers in the Chilian army— Murder qf Sifftwr Portales by the rebels— Pre- paration for invading the town of Valparaisio— consternation of the inhabi- tants—^ battle — dtfeat qf the insurgents— Capture and imprisonment of Vidaurre and seven officers — Florine, the murderer — Sentence qf the court martial — A military executicn — Appearance of the bodies after death— Sail for the United States — Cape Horn — Pernambuco—Cape Hentopen — AgaU— Arrival at Philadelphia, _^ ■ May 5th. — This aflernoon we got under way, and sailed along the north side of Eimeo, a beautiful island, only twenty miles from Tahiti, and the next morning, (having had a good wind during the night,) the loom only of the land was seen astern. June 10th. — When I rose this morning, the island of Juan Fernandez was in sight, distant about thirty miles. The outline is very uneven and rugged, being composed of alternate rough peaks and vallies. We soon approached so near that I distinctly saw, with the glass, a herd of goats bounding over the rocky heights. I felt anxious to set my foot on the shore, hallowed by the romantic narrative of De Foe, but this was impracticable under the circumstances, and I was compelled to abandon it. This is the Botany Bay of Chili ; the number of convicts at pre- sent is about two hundred. r.M ^ \t ihore—- reign resi- expedition and other belt—Pre- 'he inhttbi- sonment of f the court Itath—Sail —Agalt — id sailed y twenty a good vas seen of Juan ! outline tc rough listinctly le rocky owed by acticable ndon it. at pre- ACR08I THS BOOKV MOVNTAINI, MTfl. 205 \2th. — ^We have had flne breoaoi lince Saturday, and this ihorning, at 8 o'clock, we mnde the coRit of Chili, distant about fifty miles. The day has been a lovely, clear one, so that we had a fine view of the land until evening oloflec[. We were then within about eight miles of Vulparai«o point, and as it was deemed unsafe to attempt to run in during the dusk, we were compelled to lie to all night. The coast here appears exceedingly bold, with a very amall portion of level beach. In the back ground, hills rise upon hilli to the far distance, where their summits are crowned by the snow-capt Andes. As the sun sank this evening, and gilded with his departing rays the frozen peaks of these lofly mountains, the offeot was truly mag- nificent. The hills in the vicinity of the ihore appear to be totally devoid of vegetation, nor can the eye diieorn a single shrub in the whole of the vast space comprehended within the range of vision. From our present station, we can eteo two flag-staffs erected in different situations, upon the topn of two of the highest hills, intended, doubtless, as a guide for mariners ; and in one of the little valleys, we observe a small, but neat looking village of white houses. The harbor of Valporniso Is deeply embayed within the hills, so that we have not yet had a sight of it. \^th. — Early this morning wo paisod the point, and came immediately in vie\v of the town of Valparaiso. The houses appeared thickly grouped togothor, but without any attention to order or regularity, and between these groups, there oflen inter- vened large uninhabited spaces, producing the appearance, from the harbor, of several towns. Immediately in front of the bay ; and for the space of a quarter of a mile enit ond west of it, is the principal part of the city, the place of commercial business and fashion. Back and westward of this, are three large groups of houses, occupying the summits and sides of three hills, com- monly known to foreigners by the nautical names, /orc-f op, main- 206 ITAKSATIVI OF A J0I7RNET top, and miten-top. Occasionally, also, a white cottage is seen to peep out fVom some littlo convenient nook among tho loftiest hill behind- ■,..,..■ v- '■: ■,,!■ ■;- ■■i,.:-' -i- ■>„'!'■: '-.^-^^ About half a milo eastward of this on the low land, is the Almendral, (almond grove,) so called from a great number of these trees, which formerly grew there. The houses here are the samo in appearance as tho rest, and the city extends in this direction for perhaps a mile. Immediately after we dropped our anchor, tho captain of tho port came on board for the purpose of examining tho ship's papers. Then followed the custom- house officers, who also made the requisite investigations, and in about an hour wo were allowed to go on shore. We landed ac- cordingly ou a largo mole in front of the custom house, and Mr. Skinner and myself called upon Mr. Chauncey, of the house of Alsop & Co., to whom wo had letters from Oahu, and by whom we were politely received. After sitting about an hour, we strolled out to look at the town. Every thing here is quite new to me ; the stylo of building, the manner in which the streets are laid out, tho customs, and even the language of the inhabi- tants. It is now more than three years since I saw a town which had any pretensions to civilization, and though so far in- ferior in every respect to our cities at home, yet from my first landing, I have enjoyed tho opportunity of seeing an approximation to polite society, generally diflbsed. I do not mean that I have seen no polite society since I left home ; far from it, but the little which I have seen has been so surrounded by baser material, that here, where civilization predominates, I am more deeply impressed with the contrast. August nth, — Hero a considerable hiatus occurs in my jour- nal, occasioned by a severe fit of illness which confined me for sovcrol weeks to my bed, and from which I did r.ot wholly re- ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 297 cover during my residence of two months in Chili. I was so fortunate as to meet here a gentleman from Philadelphia, Doctor Thomas S. Page, by whom I was assiduously attended, and to whose skilful and judicious treatment I consider myself indebted for my recovery. I also received much kindness from Captain B. L. Scott and his estimable lady, as well as from a number of the foreign residents and British naval officers in the port. The political affairs of the country, and the events to which certain important and recently adopted measures have given rise, are worthy a slight notice. An expedition is about being fitted out by this country against her sister, Peru. All the men of war belonging to her navy are to be brought into service, and before many weeks there will be bloody work on the shores of South America. The Chilians have a large and efficient navy, commanded chiefly by foreign adventurers, English and Americans. Peru has also some officers of the same stamp, and thus brother will war against brother; and for what? For " filthy lucre," and bloody laurels, worthy to decorate the brow of the first mur- derer. " See from his native hills afur, The rude HeUetian flies to war:— Careless for what— for whom he fights : — For slaves or despots — wrongs or rights : — A conqueror oft— a hero never.' Yet lavish of his life-blood still. As if 'twere like his mountain rill, And gushed for ever I" The ree ons assigned by the Chilians for the necessity of the contemplated invasion, are manifold. They complain of aggres- sions and spoliations upon their subjects and commerce, ill treat- ment of their envoys, &c.; and some time since, a private citizen of Callao, upon his own responsibility, and with his own re- 38 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY f sources, without the advice of his government, visited the island of Chiloe in an armed vessel, and laid it under a heavy contribu- tion. The Chil^nos considered this a national outrage, and the lire of jealousy and furious animosity, which had been hitherto smothered, burst at once into a flame. A formal declaration of war has been the result, and it appears to be the opinion of the most calculating and discerning foreigners here, that the Chilian forces will be worsted in the conflict. ^ - , As might have been expected, many of the subjects of Chili, and some influential ones too, higiily disapproved of the projected enterprise. Among these, were a colonel of the army, and his brother, the commandante of the Rezguardo, named Vidaurre, persons of the flrst respectability in the government, and of con- siderable influence. These men openly expressed their disappro- bation of the public proceedings, and in a short time induced many other ofllicers in the service, as well as a considerable number of the regular troops, to join in a revolt, for the purpose of putting an immediate and summary end to an attempt which they argued could not fail to produce the most calamitous and fatal consequences. As a commencement of this bold and some- what Quixotic measure, they sent an invitation to a man high in oflice in Valparaiso, named Don Diego Portales, a person uf unbounded influence, and indeed the proposer and prime mover of the contemplated expedition, requesting him to meet the chief of the insurgents at Quillota, about five leagues from the town, on business of importance. Portales, without the slightest suspicion of foul play being intended, or the faintest idea of the meditated resistance to the laws, accepted the invitation unhesitatingly, and repaired to the place appointed, accompanied only by his private secretary. Here he was met by Colonel Vidaurre alone, who received him in a friendly manner, and immediately commenced a conversation relative to the invasion of Peru. The colonel expressed his sentiments freely on the subject, which of course ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 299 gave great offence to Portalea, by whom he was charged with traitorous and treasonable designs, and who threatened to order his arrest immediately on his return to Valparaiso. This threat had been anticipated, and was the preconcerted signal for the appearance of the troops of Vidaurre, who suddenly rose, like Clan Alpine's warriors, from the bushes where they had been con- cealed, surrounded and made prisoner the unfortunate com* mander-in-chief, stript him in a twinkling of his arms and equip- ments, loaded his hands and legs with heavy irons, and left him in sad and melancholy musing as to his probable fate. In a short time, a small detachment of the insurgents returned, headed by a young officer named Florine, a man who had made himself remarkable by several acts of wanton and bloody atrocity. Portales felt that his hour was come. He knew that he need ex- pect no mercy from the man into whose hands he had fallen. He disdained therefore to plead for himself, but only requested that his secretary, (a young man belonging to one of the first families in Chili,) who was of course perfectly innocent, might be suffered to depart without molestation. This request the ruffian said he could not grant, but told them botn to prepare instantly for death, for that they^ had not five minutes to live. After both the victims had performed their devotions, which they did in the most calm and devout manner, a signal was given, and the whole detachment fired their pieces within a few yards of the unhappy prisoners. The young secretary was instantly killed, but Portales himself still stood, being but slightly wounded in the side ; and it is said that, in this most trying mo- ment, his admirable courage and self command, did not desert him. He stood and looked with a proud, cold eye upon his execu- tioners. Not a man among them dared to meet that glance, but every one cast down his eyes in admiration and profound awe. They stood in the presence of a superior mind, and they cowered 800 wahrative or a jottrwry like abject worms before its influence. Young Florine, however, was not to be so daunted. Enraged that he whom he chose to consider his enemy, still survived, he gnashed his teeth and rush- ed upon his bound and defenceless general with his sword. Three several times, did he pass his murderous blade clean through the body of Portales. That calm unwavering eye still kept its basilisk glance upon the convulsed features of the assas- sin, until with the third thriist its lustre was quenched in death ; the poor body which encased the dauntless soul, quivered in the last agony, and fell a lump of senseless clay upon its parent earth. These details were related by an eye witness, one who, although engaged in the revolt, opposed with manly energy the dastardly and most atrocious act by which it was commenced. After the perpetration of this lawless and high-handed deed, (which it is generally believed even Vidaurre himself did not sanction, or approve of,) a pacific negotiation with the reigning powers was of course impossible. All engoged in the insurrec- tion would be denounced as felons, and any one of them who should fall into the hands of the authorities would inevitably die the felon's death ; so there was nothing for it but to strengthen their army as much and as rapidly as possible, and forthwith attack the stronghold of the enemies of misrule. Accordingly the whole army retired to a short distance from the scene of the murder, leaving the dead bodies on the spot, and set on foot the most active measures to increase the number of their forces. In the mean time, the protracted absence of Por- tales, caused much anxiety among his friends, several of whom knew of his having gone to Quillota, and on the day following they repaired thither in all haste, where they found the corpses as they had been left, and conveyed them immediately to Valpa- raiso. The cause and manner of Portales' death was at once ACROSS THE ROCK? M017NTAIN8, ETC. SUl suspected, and naturally induced a supposition that this flagitious act of private animosity was but the prelude to public hostility, and therefore the Chilian commander lost no time in getting his regulars and militia under arms, and in readiness to repel the suspected invasion. On the day following, intelligence of the movements, and meditated attack of the rebel army was received in Valparaiso. AH was consternation through the town. Every horse that could be found was seized upon for the use of the troops, not excepting private property even ; the merchants scaled up all their specie in boxes, and sent it on board the men of war for safe keeping, and stood ready to embark themselves, with their most valuable effects, in case of the success of the in- vaders. The Chilian general selected an eligible spot of ground within about four miles of the town, concealing his army as well as he could, in the quebrados or valleys by which it was bounded, ond waited, with what patience he might, the approach of the enemy. On the 3d of June, at three o'clock in the morning, Vidaurre came on, leading his men quietly and stealthily over the uneven ground, and no doubt thought to take the town by complete sur- prise, and secure an easy, and, perhaps, bloodless victory over the amazed regulars. But he was most sadly mistaken. As his army was silently and warily moving down one of the abrupt hills, in a perfectly unprepared state, a tremendous and most destructive fire was suddenly opened upon them from the bushes upon both sides of the declivity. A large body of men from one valley rushed to the top of the hill, and completely cut off their retreat in the direction from which they came ; a detach- ment from the opposite valfcy filed off in front, and received them from the town side, and at the same instant, a number of gun- boats, which were stationed in the bay, greeted them with a tre- mendous volley of grape shot and musket balls, which completed 302 NARRATIVE OF A JOITSNEY the panic of the insurgent army. Once, and once only, did they attempt to rally, and in answer to the deadly shower of bullets which was mowing down their ranks, did they discharge a few of their muskets at, irregular and trembling intervals, but they were completely routed; resistance was utterly vain, and the whole mass fled in the utmost dismay and consternation. Some few effected their escape, but the greater number were taken pri- soners, among whom were the colonel himself, the bloody Florine, and six other officers of distinction, besides about twenty subaU terns. The number of killed and wounded I have not exactly ascertained, but I believe it exceeded a hundred. The news of this victory was of course most agreeable to the inhabitants of the town, (a great number of whom witnessed the combat from the heights,) and quiet and security were immedi- ately restored. When I arrived, (which was only ten days after,) matters were in the most tranquil state. One day more had elapsed than is, by common consent, allotted to the recollection of affairs of an unusual character, and the people were beginning to talk of it as an event which had left but little impression upon the memory. But the poor officers of the ill-fated army had not forgotten it. They were languishing on board the Chilian ships of war in the harbor, laden with heavy irons, such as they had caused to be placed upon the limbs of the unfortunate Portales ; they were stowed away in the darkest and most uncomfortable places, and fed upon a miserable allowance of hard bread and water. Add to this, that in consequence of the constant, and sometimes severe motion of the ships in this harbor, they were for weeks dread- fully sea-sick, without medical advice being allowed them, and of course utterly deprived of the power of moving about, and thereby diminishing its pangs, and we can readily believe that they were wretched enough. I felt a sincere commiseration for several of the officers whoso history I inquired into, and par- ACROSS THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS, ETC. 303 ticiilarly for a poor Swede, an almott innocent man, certainly innocent of any participation in the death of Portalcs ; the same who related the interesting particulars of the murder. For Florine, I never felt much pity. Ho was a miscreant of the deepest dye ; and when I sow him, a few days after my arri- val, brought with others on shore, I observed that the people seemed to contemplate, with savage pleasure, the haggard and disease-worn lineaments, which physical suffering, and the gnawing worm at his heart, had rendered hideous and for- bidding. A court martial was called immediately upon the capture of the prisoners, and after a tedious and protracted examination of some weeks, all the eight officers were sentenced to be publicly shot. The long, and most unnecessary delay which preceded the condemnation, was a refinement in cruelty, worthy of the most barbarous horde that ever existed, and sufficiently proved the savage origin of the examining judges. But they had to deal with firm and bold spirits ; — men who had not attempted revolt without calculating the chances of defeat and capture, and their minds were therefore strung to meet the ignominious and painful death which they knew awaited them. On the 4th of July, the day appointed for the execution, all the stores of the town were closed ; the streets were thronged with people of both sexes, and a stranger, suddenly entering the city, would have supposed that some great national jubilee was about to take place. At 11 oVlock in the morning, the prisoners were brought on shore in boats, accompanied by several officers of the squadron, and a guard of soldiers. In consequence of the severe illness which most of them had so long suffered, ad- ded to the cumbrous shackles on their limbs, not one of them had strength to climb the short flight of steps from the water to the top of the mole. It was necessary for them to be lifted over this impediment, and almost carried to the carts which waited for them KM NAKRATIVB OF A JOURNKY in front oPtho custom-houHu. I aaw, by tho countenances of tlie condemned men, that bodily fear or apprehension had not pro- duced the illness under which they were laboring; it could bo accounted for only by their rigid confinement, unwholesome living, and constant sea-sickness. They conversed with tho cowled and shaven priests who occupied tho carts with them in a calm, and even cheerful tone. Poor fellows ! they probably enjoyed the pure air and glorious canopy of heaven, for which, even though they heralded their way to an ignominious and violent death, they were glad to ex- change the gloomy horrors of their prison-house on the sea. AAer many delays, which always occur at such times, the carts moved off, preceded and followed by a file of soldiers. The streets were crowded with the populace of all ages, sexes, and conditions, and I, of course, was borne on in tho throng towards tho place of execution. I never felt so oppressed with conflicting emotions in my life. Pity and commiseration for tho wretched beings who were about to launch out upon tho untried ocean of eternity, admiration for the calm and manly resolution which they had shown in this most trying hour, anticipation of the sufferings they were to en- dure in undergoing the dreadful sentence, and a doubt, a strong and irrepressible doubt of tho right of poor fallible mortals to assume a power over the lives of their fellows, which should be- long only to the good and righteous Judge of all. Under the in- fluence of the last conclusion, (for such it had become,) I was * several times on the point of returning to my lodgings, so as not to sanction by my presence, an act which I could not approve, but I had left with the intention of seeing the end of the tragedy, and as my presence or absence would not affect the event, I fol- lowed with the rest. In the course of an hour, the carts arrived at tho place of exe- cution, which was a large square, fronting on the sea, at the lower •"^ ADNOH rirr, hockv mointaini, rtc. flOO strong rxtrniriity of tint city pro(icr, uml upper |)ortiou ui' lUn Alnwtulrtl. Hero Iho prUoiinrit wcro lifted to the grouitd, thuir coat* and ImU ritmovod, and thrown in a hnap together, and oacli mon placed by A Hort u( ■rm chair which had been previously providod, the logi of which had bcon driven firmly into the ground. A largo body of troopH, to (ho nurnbnr of perhaps six hundred, was then brought forwurdi nnd statlonod around the square; the city guardN, on horseliiuik, worn arranged within these, and outside tho wholo open spuiM) wuM crowdod with [icoplc, as well as tho hoighta ovor- looking thu spot. After u lung and pninilil pnuso, tho culprits worn lentod in tho chairs, thuir itririM nnd logs firmly bound to tho upright pieces, ond a handkbrvhiei'tii'd around tho eyes of each. From this moment every thing was conducted with thu groat' est dosputuh. A file of twclvo men wns drawn up within obout five yards of tliu victims; tho commanding ofHcor waved his sword over his hoad^vory man clapt his musket to his ihouldor and fired n rattling volley in thevoryfiices of tho poor criminals. It was most wrutchodly, most cruelly managed. I had posted myself on the top of n high fence near, and could see clearly every thing that occurred. Tho volley was fired before even tho executioners were prepared ; they had evidently expected more exact and doflnito orders, ond tho saturnine priests were taken wholly by surprise, us, when tho report of the muskets broke tho awfiil siloncoi thoy wore whispering ghostly comfort, and administering extronio unction to the unhappy sufibrers. As tho smoke cleared away, tho terrified padres wore seen scampering from tho aroo, and mixing in the crowd without. As I ontici- patedi not onu of tho poor wretches was killed. Some wore grievously wounded, nnd struggling convulsively in their bonds, but several soemud to have escaped altogether. Among theso woro tho colotiot nnd young Florine. Tho former raised his hand, and tapped his breunt several times as though directing 39 300 NARRATIVE OP A JOURNEY them where to fire ; and Florine — the diabolical Florine, smiled in scorn and derision ! A reserve of twelve men was then brought forward, and each of them walked up to some one of the victims, and placing his musket against the head or breast, fired at his leisure. The first file had by this time reloaded, and they also marched up, each one of them discharging his piece with the most perfect coolness and unconcern at those of the dying men who still struggled, until at last the horrid butchery ceased with the death of all the culprits. The heads lay flaccid and motion- less upon the boso'ns, and the thongs being cut asunder, the bodies fell heavily to the ground. The soldiers were then all marched in single file by the spot that they might look upon the remains of those who had been traitors to their country, and re- ceive a fearful lesson from the sight, afler which the bodies were thrown into one of the carts, and conveyed through the streets towards the place of sepulture. The concourse of people still followed, and I several times observed, when the cart was forced to stop for a few minutes by reason of the crowd, that when it moved on again, a pool of dark, frothy blood was always seen on the spot over which it had been delayed. It was very horrible, and I saw more than one man shudder as he looked upon it. When the cart arrived at one of the small streets in the lower part of the city, on which the burial ground is situated, the bodies were lifted out by the arms and feet, and thrown upon the ground with about as much care and tenderness as the carcasses of so many dogs ! I felt my blood boil at this, but the Chilian gentle- men who were present gave no evidence of such feeling, "'hey had been traitors, and therefore indignity should be added to indignity, until the earth covered the mutilated remains. While the bodies were thus lying, previous to interment, I re- quested of the guard permission to examine them, which being granteii, I stept out from the surrounding crowd, which was kept back by the soldiery, and contemplated with great interest the ACROSS THE HOCKY MOUNTAINS, KTC. 307 countenances of the dead. On several of these, the traces of in- tense and protracted agony were frightfully apparent. The face of the colonel betrayed no evidence of suffering, and that of young Florine still wore its Caliban grin of defiance and derision. I turned away from it to look at the others. The next upon whom my eye fell was the poor Swede, in whom I had taken so much interest. He had received several balls through the breast, his hair was gory, and his lustreless and dead eyes wide open, but the muscles of the face were not contracted, and I hoped he had passed away without much suffering; but upon moving to the other side, my blood curdled, when I perceived that the whole back of the head had been blown away, exhibiting the empty, brainless skull. But enough, and too much of all this. I would not be thought a lover of the horrible. The bodies were buried on the same day. The head of the colonel was severed from the trunk, and hung in chains near where the battle was fought. The head and right arm of Florine were similarly suspended on the spot where the murder of Por- tales was committed, and in a few days people ceased to talk, or even think of the tragical fate of the insurgents. But there are some who will think of tlicm, who will weep and lament for them through long years of sorrow. Mothers are mourning for their children, and " will not be comforted," Wives, sons, and daughters are drinking the waters of affliction, embittered an hundred fold by the violent death of those who were dear to them ! Vidaurre had a mother, wife, and children ; the Swede had a wife and mother in his own country : many more of them were similarly circumstanced, and even the ruffian Florine will be wept for by the partial eyes of maternal tender- ness. There was another actor in this revolt whom we have losi sight offer some time. Colonel Vidaurre's younger brother, the coni- niandante of the Rczguardo. Although he was fully engaged in NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY the insurrection, and was on the ground at the time of the murder of Portales, yet he was not in the battle which followed ; and on his examination, found means to prove, that during the time when these scenes were transpiring, he was lying dead drunk at a house in the vicinity. This proof of an alibi cleared him, and his sentence will probably be commuted to imprisonment or transportation. The squadron for Peru will sail in a few weeks, and it is ex- expected that in a short time an embargo will be placed on all vessels in the port, which will continue in force for a month or more. On the 22d of August, I embarked on board the brig B. Me- zick, Captain Martin, bound for Philadelphia, and in the evening, sailed out of the harbor of Valparaiso. September 1th. — During the past week we have had some Cape Horn weather — rain, snow, and hail, but happily, no ice. The sea has been tremendously high, and still continues so, with the weather excessively cold. We may, however, consider our- selves peculiarly favored, as not a day has passed, in which we did not see the sun and ascertain our longitude. Pro- bably the greatest difficulty and danger of this vicinity is the constant darkness and gloom which is its usual cha- racteristic. You are in consequence, unable to ascertain your true position by observation, and dead reckoning fur- nishes but an insecure guide when powerful currents are im- pelling you to leeward, and drilling your vessel towards the most frightful of all dangers, a rocky lee-coast. We have now doubled the cape, and are steering N. E., the island of Diego Ramirez bearing W. 130 miles. We have therefore left the Pacific, and are now in the South Atlantic ocean. October Sth. — We are within about two degrees of the tropical line, and, with good breezes, only about twenty>five days sail from the capes of Delaware. Oh, who can describe the anxious ACROSS TUB WOCIKV MOKNTAINH, K'VV, 309 longings of him who is approaching hlH beloved home, nfter hav- ing been long separated fronj it, or depict hif> feelings, his ardent, soul-absorbing feelings, in the proMpect of soon holding to his bosom the dear beings who aro twinod around every fibre of his heart 1 Yesterday we passed the latitude of Pcrntmbuco, and aro now steering N. W. along tho nortliom cMMi of Hruzil. On the 13th of November, wo made Oupo Ilcniopcn, and took a pilot on board, at the distanco of four miles from land. The next day we ran in, and anchored within view of the light-house, during a heavy N. E. gale. In tlio night we were so unfortunate as to lose successively both our bower unchors, and were compel- led to run out to sea again. The day following, however, was clear; we procured another anchor at the breakwater, and had a fine run of forty-eight hours to the city. I oguiu trod tho shore of my native land, after an absence of three years and eight months. I met again the dear relatives and friends, from whom I had been so long separated, and who lind been spared in mercy to welcome the wanderer to a participation in tho inestimable bles- sings of Home. APPENDIX. W" CATALOGUE OF QUADRUPEDS, FOUND IN THE TERRITORY OF THE OREGON. ([j' The new species are designated by an * preceding the vulgar name, American Bison, or Buffalo, Bos americanus. Moose, Cervus dices. Wapiti, or Red Deer, (Elk of the hunters,) Cervvs canadensis. Black-tailed Deer, Cervus macrourus. White-tailed Deer, Cervus leucurus. Prong-horned Antelope, Antelope fur cifer. Grizzly Bear, Ursusferox, Black Bear, Ursus americanus. White Bear. Brown Bear. American Badger, Meles labradoria. Racoon, Procyon lotor. Common Wolf, Canus lupus. Dusky Wolf, Canus nubilus.?* Cinereous Wolf, Canus. Prairie Wolf, Canus latrans. Red Fox, Canus vulpes. Grey Fox, Canus cinereo-argentatus. Cross Fox, Canus cinereo-argentatus. Black, or Silver Fox, Canus cinereo-argentatus. ♦ This is probably a new species. It is much larger than nubUvs, as described, and dift'ers much in its liabits. 312 APPENDIX. Wolverene, or Glutton, Gulo luscus. Beaver, Castor Jiber. Musk-rat, or Musquash, Fiber zihethicus. Sea Otter, Lutra marina. Land, or River Otter, Lutra canadensis. Pine Marten, Mustela martea. Ermine Weasel, Mustela erminea. Fisher, Mustela Pennanti. Mink, Mustela vison. Mountain Sheep, Ovis montana. Mountain Goat, Capra americana. Cougar, or Panther, Fclia concolor.* Hudson's Bay Lynx, Felis hudsonicus. *Townscnd's Hare, Lepus Townsendii, (Baciiman.) *Wormwood Hare, Lepus artemesia, (Bachman.) ^ Marsh Hare, Lepus palustris, (Bachman.) *Nuttall's little Hare, Lepus Nuttallii, (Bachman.) Little Chief Hare, Lagomys princeps, (Richardson.) Prairie Dog, or Marmot, Arctomys Itidodcianus. Franklin's Marmot, Arctomys Franklinii. Douglass' Marmot, Arctomys Douglassii. Richardson's Marmot, Arctomys Richnrdsonii. *Townsend's Marmot, SpermopMlus Townsendii, (Baciijuk'S.) Hood's Marmot, Spermophilus tridecemlineatus. *Small-pouched Marmot, (the opening of the pouches within the mouth,) not in my collection. Gopher, or Kamas Rat, Geomys borealis. Townsend's Gopher, Geomys Townsendii, (Richardson's M.S.S.) Jumping Mouse, Meriones labradorius, (Richardson.) White-footed Mouse, Mus leucopus. Common Mouse, Mus musculus. Rocky Mountain Rat, Neotoma Drummondii. *Townsend's Meadow Mouse, Arvicola Townsendii, (Bach- man.) *Small Meadow Mouse, Arvicola oregonii, (Bachmap.) * There is n second species of I'unther, of wliivli, unfortunately, I possess only tlie skull and one foot. I believe it to be undcscribed. AFFENDIX. 818 Douglass' Tree Squirrel, Sciurua Douglaaaii, (Bbnnett.) *Downy Squirrel, Sciurus lanuginoaus, (Baciiman.) *Richardson'8 Squirrel, Sciurus Richardsonii, (Bachman.) *Little Ground Squirrel, Tamias minimus, (Baciiman.) Four-lined Squirrel, Tamias quadrivitatus, (Say.) *Townsend'3 Ground Squirrel, Tamias Townsendii, (JJAcit« MAN.) Hudson's Bay Flying Squirrel, Pteromys sabrinus. *Oregon Flying Squirrel, Pteromys oregonensis, (Baciiman.) *Townsend's Shrew Mole, Scalops Townsendii, (Bacuman.) *Columbia Shrew, Sorex, (undescribed.) « r. Thick-tail Star-nose Mole, Condylvra macroura. Long-tail Star-nose, Condylura longicaudata. Hair Seal, Phoca vitulina. American Porcupine, Hystrix dorsata. *Great-eared Bat, Plecotus Townsendii, (Cooper.) Say's Bat, Vespertilio subulatus, (Say.) *?Little Bat, Vespertilio, (undescribed.) '.) )8css onlj Nuttall's Little Hare. Lepus *Nuttallii, (Bach.) in Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences, Vol. 7, part IL page 345, plate 22, No. 1. " Characters. — Very snjall : tail of moderate length ; general color above, a mixture of light bufT and dark brown ; beneath, light yellowish-gray ; ears broad and rounded ; lower surface of the tail white." ****** " The fur on the back is for three-fourths of its length from the roots of a plumbeous color, then ght ash, mixed with buff; and the long interspersed hairs are all tipped with black. The ears are pretty well clothed internally and externally with hairs of an ash color, bordered with a line of black anteriorly, and edged with white. From behind the ears to the back there is a very broad patch of buff, and the same color, mixed with rufous, prevails on the outer surface of the legs, extending to the thighs and shoulders. The soles of the feet are yellowish-brown. The claws, which are slightly arched, are light brown for three- fourths of their length, and tipped with white. The under sur- farce of the tail is while. X 40 314 Appendix. 6| inches 2 1 24 n n 4 u Length, from point of nose to insertion of tail, *' of heel, " of fur on the back, " of head, Height of car, Tail (vertebrfiB,) " including fur, This description is from a single specimen brought by Mr. Nuttall from beyond the Rocky Mountains. It was captured on the banks of a small stream which flowed into the Snake or Shoshoii^ river, where it was not uncommon. We never heard of it on the Columbia, and presume, therefore, that it does not inhabit a very extended range. — ^Towws. Townsend's Shrew Mole. Scalops *Townsendii, (Bachman.) Journal Acad. Natural Sciences, vol. 6, part I. Scalops canadensis, (Richardson,) Fauna boreali Americana, p. 9. " This species first described by Dr. Richardson, was incor- rectly referred to the common shrew mole of the United States. Its size and dentition are sufficient evidences of its being a new and (I'stinct species, which, on account of the number and ar- rangement of its teeth, will either require the characters of the genus to be enlarged, or that it be placed under a new subgenus. A specimen of this quadruped was kindly presented to me, by Mr. Nuttall, who requested, that in case it should prove a distinct species, it might be given under the above name. I subsequently received from Mr. Townsend another specimen, a little larger, which I presume to be a mere variety, although very singularly marked. Description of Mr. NuttalVs specimen. Length of the head and body, . 7 in. 6 lines. Length of tail, . . . 1 in. 6 " Breadth of the fore palm, ... 7 " Dental Ibrmula. Incis. |. False molars ^|. True molars |. 44. The body is thick and cylindrical, shaped like the shrew mole of the United States. The whole upper and under surface is of a dark color, in most lights appearing black. The hair, when blown aside, exhibits a grayish-black color from the roots to near APPENDIX. 315 i( (I (t it the tips. The tail is slightly clothed with short strong bris- tles. The specimen brought by Mr. Townsend, is thicker, and about an inch longer. It has a white stripe about two lines wide, commencing under the chin, and running in a somewhat irregular line along the under surface of the body, to within an inch and a half of the insertion of the tail; there is also a white streak commencing on the forehead and extending along the snout." #*####** Inhabits the Columbia river. — Towns. Townsend's Meadow Mouse. Avicola*Townaendii, (Bach.) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences, vol. 8, part I. Hash-sho, of the Chinook Indians. " Body cylindrical, head rather small, whiskers nearly all white, intermingled with a few black hairs ; eyes small ; teeth large, yellow ; ears large, broad, extending a little beyond the fur ; feet of moderate size, toes like the rest of this genus; thumb protected by a rather short, acute nail ; fur on the back, about three lines long, much shorter beneath. Tail scaly, sparingly covered with soft brown hair, a few white hairs at its extremity; feet clothed to the nails with short, brown, adpressed hairs; claws brown; fur above lead color from the roots to near the tips, which are dark brown ; beneath Jnereous. Length of head and body, 6 inches, Length of tail, 2 " 6 Fore feet to point of nails, 9 From heel to point of nail, 1 " Breadth of ear, 5 Inhabits the Columbia river. — ^Towns. lines « »» Oregon Meadow Mouse. Arvicola Oregoni, (Bach.) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences, Vol. 8, part I. " This diminutive species is another of the discoveries of Mr. Townsend. Head of moderate size, body slender, eyes very small for this genus ; ears nearly naked, concealed by the fur ; feet small ; whiskers the length of the head, white and black, the latter pre- 816 APPENDIX. dominating ; color above, a shade lighter than that of the former species, inclining a little to hoary brown ; ash-colored beneath ; a very minute blunt thumb nail on the fore foot. Length of tho head and body, . 3 inches, Length of tail . . . 1 " 2 lines." Inhabits the Columbia river. — Towns. Townsend's Marmot. Spermophilua *Townscndii, (Bach.) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences, Vol. 8, part I. Tet no^ of the Walla-walla, and Nez Percys Indians. •' The body is long and rather slender. Head of moderate size ; nose slightly obtuse. Ears short, scarcely a line in height ; nails slender, compressed, and slightly arched ; the thumb pro- tected by an acute and prominent nail ; the second cluv in the fore foot, as in all the species of this genus, is longest, and not the third, as in the squirrels. Cheek-pouches not large. Tail thickly clothed with fur, and in the dried specimen appears much flatten- ed ; the fur is soil, smooth, and lustrous. There is a line of white above and below the eye-brows. Tho fur on tho whole of the upper surface is for one-fourth of its length from the roots of a nearly black color, then a broad line of silver gray, then a narrow line of daik brown, edged with yel- lowish-white, with a few black hairs mterspersed, giving it a brownish-gray appearance. On the under surface, where the hair is a little longer than on the back, it is black at the roots, and cinereous at the points ; on the forehead and nose, it is slightly tinged with brown. The line of separation between the colors of the upper and under surface, exists high up along the sides, and is very distinctly drawn. The tail on the upper sur- face is the color of the back, slightly tinged with brown beneath ; the teeth are white. Length of the head and body, " head, " tail, (vertebrae,) " " including fur, Length from heel to middle hind claw, 1 " -4 I procured a single specimen of this animal on the Columbia river, about three hundred miles above its mouth, in July. It 8 inches 9 lines, 1 " 10 " 1 " 1 " 6 " APPENDIX. 317 it IS was said to be common there at that season, but as I woh travel- ing in boats to the interior, had but little time to search for it. I know but little of its habits. It becomes excessively fat, and is eaten by the Indians. Disappears in August, and emerges in the spring in a very attenuated state. — Towns, in lit. Douglass' Suuirrel. Sciurus Douglanaii, (Bennett.) Scitirus Townacmlii, (Bach- man.) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences, Vol. 8, part I. Ap-poe- poe, of the Chinook Indians. " This species, in the form of its body, is not very unlike the Sciurua hudaonicua ; its cars and tail, however, are proportion- ably much shorter ; it is about a fourth larger, and in its mark- ings differs widely from all other known 'species. Head considerably broader than that of the Sciurua hudaonicua,' nose less elongated and blunter, body long and slender ; eara rather small, nearly rounded, slightly tufled posteriorly. As usual in this genus, the third inner toe is the longest, and not the second, as in the Spcrmophile. Color. — The whiskers, which are the length of the head, are black. The fur, which is soil and lustrous, is, on the back from the roots to near the points, plumbeous, tipped with brownish- gray, with a few lighter colored hairs interspersed, giving it a dark brown appearance ; when closely examined, it has the ap- pearance of being thickly sprinkled with minute points of rust color on a black ground. The tail, which is distichous, but not broad, is, for three-fourths of an inch, of the color of the back ; in the middle, the fur is plumbeous at the roots, then irregular markings of brown and black, tipped with soiled white, giving it a hoary appearance ; on the extremity of the tail, the hairs are black from the roots, tipped with light brown. The inner sides of the extremities, and the outer surface of the feet, together with the throat and mouth, and a line above and under the eye, are bright buff. The colors on the upper and under parts are sepa- rated by a line of black, commencing at the shoulders, and run- ning along the flanks to the thighs. It is widest in the middle, about three lines, and tapers off to a point. The hairs which project beyond the outer margins of the ears, and forming a slight tu^, are dark brown, and, in some specimens, black. 318 APPRUniX. Length from point ofnosn to insertion oftail, 8 inches 4 lines. " oftail, (vertebra,) . . . 4 " 6 •• " " including fur, . . . 6 " 4 " Height of car posteriorly, ... 6 " Solo and middle hind claw, . . . 1 " 11 «t " This squirrel is common on the Columbia in pine forcst^. Feeds chiefly upon the seeds of the pine, and lays up a largo quantity of them for winter store, in the hollows of decayed limbs. It is very unsuspicious and tamo ; more so than Sciurua hud' aonicua. Voice remarkably loud and harsh ; may be heard several hundred yards. It is in the habit of nipping off small branches from the summits of the trees, and throwing them down, apparently in sport. I have seen at one time at least a dozen of them engaged in this way, within a short distance. The twigs were falling in every direction, ond the loud call was not suspended for a moment. The nest is made of sticks and hair, usually in the hollow of a decayed branch, rarely in the bifurcation of limbs. Has four young at a birth, which remain longer in the nest than the common gray squirrel. I have frequently seen this species tamed, and in the pos* session of the Indian boys. They were very lively and playful. — Towns, in lit. Columbia Pine Suuirrel. Sciurus *Richardaonii, (Bachman,) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences, Vol. 8, part I. Small brown squirrel, Lewis and Clarke, Vol. 3, p. 37. Sciurus hudsonicus, var. (^Columbia Pine Squirrel, Richardson.) " This small species was first noticed by Lewis and Clarke, who deposited a specimen in the Philadelphia Museum, where it still exists. I have compared it with a specimen brought by Mr. Townsend, and find them identical. Richardson, who appears not to have seen it, supposes it to be a mere variety of the Sciurus hudsonicus. On the contrary, Mr. Townsend says in in his notes, ' It is evidently a distinct species ; its habits are very difierent from those of the Sciurus hudsonicus. It frequents the pine trees in the high range of the Rocky Mountains, west of APriCNDIX. »1() Clarke, e it still )y Mr. ipears of the ays in its are quents west of tlio gritut iilmlii, foiiillng upon the leods containod in tlin concNi ThuNu mm\» aril largo and white, ond contain n good ditnl of niitrimnnt. Thn indiuni* nat u great quantity uf thorn, and cMtnoni thuin good. 'I'lin nolo of thiH squirrel iH a loud jarring chattrtr, very dillurunt IVoni the voice of the Sciurua hudnonivu*. It i** not at all Nhy, lVcJnN of genuine HquirrnI in North America, is short, and docs not iirescnt that uppuarancn of lightness and agility which distinguiNhes the SeiuruM hud»mmi». Hood large, less elongated, and nose a littlo blunter than flciurua hudtonicua ; ears short ; feet of moderate si/n, the third toe on tho fore foot but slightly longer than the second. The claws are compressed, hooked and acute ; tail shorter than thn borly ; tho thumb nail is broad, flat and blunt. The f\ir on thn back is dark plumbeous from the roots, tipin-d with rusty brown nnd black, giving it a rusty gray appearance. It is less rufuuN than tho Sciurus hudaonicua, and lighter colored than tho S. JhufflaaaU. The feet, on their upper surface, uro rufous ; on tlin shoulders, forehead, ears, and along the thighs, there is n slight lingo of the same color. Tho whiskers, which are a liltln longer than the head, are bluck, the teeth yiitlowish* white. Thn whole uf tho under surface, as well as a line around the nyoN, and a small patch above the nostrils, smoke gray. 'J'hu tail foroboutonn.half its length, presents on the upper surface a dark rufous appearMricn ; many of the hnirs being nearly black, pointed with light rulldis. At the extremity of the tail, for about one inch in length, the hairs are black, a P-vv of them slightly tipjied with rufous. Thn hind feet, from the heels to the palms, aro thickly clothed with short ndprcssed light colored hairs ; the palms are naked. Thoeiidos uro marked by a line of black commencing nt thu 320 APPENDIX. shoulder, and terminating abruptly on the flanks ; it is about two inches in length, and four lines wide. Length of head and body, 6 inches 2 lines. " tail (vertebra),) 3 " 6 " " " including fur, 5 " " ears posteriorly, 3 " " " including fur, 5 " " sole and middle hind claw, 9 " " Downy SaviBREL. Sciurua lanuginosus, (Bach.) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences, vol. 8, part I. " A singular and beautiful little quadruped, to which I have conceived the above name appropriate, was sent to me with the collection of Mr. Townsend. The head is broader than the S. hudsonicus, and the forehead much arched ; the ears short and oval ,* whiskers longer than the head ; feet and toes short, thumb armed with a broad, flat nail ; nails slender, compressed, and acute ; the third on the fore feet is the longest, as in the squirrels. The tail, which bears some resemblance to that of the flying squirrel, is composed of hairs a little coarser than those of the back, and much shorter than the body. On the fore feet the palms are nearly naked; the under surface of the toes being only partially covered with hair, but on the hind feet, the under surface, from the heel even to the extremity of the nails is thickly clothed with short soil hairs. The fur is softer and more downy than that of any other of our species, and the whole covering of the animal indicates it to be a native of a cold region. The teeth are dark orange ; whiskers brown ; the fur on the back, from the roots to near the extremities, light plumbeous, tipped with light chestnut-brown ; on the sides with silver gray ; there is a broad band of white around the eyes ; a spot of white on the hind part of the head, a little in advance of the anterior portion of the ears. The nose is white, which color extends along the forehead till above the eyes, where it is gradually blended with the colors on the back. The whole of the under surface, including the feet and the inner surface of the legs, pure APPENDIX. 321 white. In the tail, the colors are irregularly blended with mark- ings of black, light brown, and white, scarcely two hairs being uniform in color. In general, it may bo said that the tail, when examined without reference to individual hairs, is light ash at the roots of the hair, then a broad, but not well, defined, line of light rufous, then dark brown, and tipped with rufous and smoke gray. Length of head and body, . . 7 inches 11 lines. " tail, (vertebra;,) . . 4 " 8 " «« " including fur, . . 6 " •• palm and middle fore claw, 1 " •• sole and middle hind claw, 1 " 9 " « fur on the back, . . 7 " " at the tip of the tail, .1 " 10 " Height of ear, measured posteriorly, 5 " Distance between the orbits, . . 6 " " Of the habits, &c., of this animal, I know nothing. It was presented to me by William Fraser Tolmie, Esq., surgeon of the Honorable Hudson's Bay Company, by whom it was captured near Fort McLoughlin, on the N. W. coast of America. — ^Towns. Townsend's Ground Squirrel. Tamias * Townsendii, (Bachman.) Journal Acad. Nat. Sci- ences, Vol. 8, part I. Quiss-Quiss of the Chinook Indians. " This species bears some resemblance to our common ground squirrel of the middle and northern states, (S. lysteri,) it differs from it, however, in its larger size, longer tail, and several other striking particulars. The body is stouter than that of the former species, the head broader, the nose more obtuse, and the tail nearly double the length. In the arrangement of the teeth and toes, this species does not differ widely from the Sciurus (Tamias) lysteri, except that they are much more robust. The teeth are dark orange ; whiskers, which are a little shorter than the head, black ; a line of fawn color, commencing at the nostrils, runs over the eye- brows, and terminates a little beyond them in a point of lighter color ; a patch of similar commences under the eyelids, and run- ning along the cheeks, terminates at the ear. There is a line of 41 322 APrENDIX. dark brown, commencing at the termination of tho nose, where it forms a point, and bordering the fawn color above, is gradually blended with the lighter colors of the head. The cars, which are of moderate size, and ovate, are on the upper margins of the inner surface partially clothed with a few short, brown hairs ; the outer surface is thickly clothed with fur, brown on the ante- rior parts, with a patch of white covering about one-fourth of the car on the posterior portion. Behind the ear there is a slight marking of cinereous, of about six lines in length, terminating near the shoulder. A line of black commences on the hind part of the head, runs over the centre of the back, where it spreads out to the width of four lines, and terminates in a point at the inser- tion of the tail ; a line of similar color commences at the shoul- ders, and running parallel, terminates a little beyond the hips; another, but narrower and shorter line of the same color, runs parallel with this, low down on the sides, giving it five black stripes. The head and back are light yellowish-brown, present- ing on the upper surface a dusky ochre color. It has not the whitish stripes oiK the sides, nor the rufous color on the hips, which are so conspicuous in the Sciurus ( Tamias) lysteri. On the throat, belly, and inner parts of the legs and thighs, the color is light cinereous ; there is no line of separation between the co- lors of the back and belly. The tail, which is not bushy, is on the upper surface grayish-black, having a hoary appearance. Underneath it is reddish brown, for two-thirds of its breadth, then a narrow line of black, tipped with light ash. The nails are brown. Length of the head and body, " Tail, (vertebra;,) Length of tail, including fur . " head. Height of ear. Length of heel to middle claw o This pretty little animal, so mu striatus, is quite common on the Columbia river. It lives in holes in the ground, and is so tame, that it not unfroquently runs over your feet as you traverse the forests. Tt frequently perches itself upon a log or stump, and keeps up a continual clucking, . G inches 9 lines. . 4 " . 5 " . 2 " 6 " i foot, 1 " 6 '• " resemblinj' our common • the co- is on incs. common lives in itly runs perches .lucking, API'RfinJX. 323 which is usually nnsworocl by niiotlmr nt nomo distance, for a considerable time. Thoir notes no much rnHnmblcs that of the dusky grouse, {Tetrao ohgcurun,) that I have more than once been deceived by it. — Townh, In lit. I^EAST GnovNU Huviitntit. Tamias *minimuii, (Bachman.) .loiininl Acnd. Nat. Sciences, Vol. 8, part I. "This diminutive and bonutll\4l Npooicm ofTtmiias, not half the size of the common groimd Ntjuirrol, in another of the discoveries of Mr. Townsend. Length of head and body, . . .3 inches, 9 3 4 Imcs. « C( " tail, (vcrtobrm,) . . " « to the end of fur, . Height of ear, posteriorly, . . . Length of head, . . , .1 " heel to end of middio (^Ifiw, 1 " The head is rather email ; tlio noHO very sharp pointed ; claws moderately curved, comprosHod, Mt'Utn, and dirk brown. Thero is, as in all the species of this gomis, ti minute blunt nail on the thumb. The feet and logs ratlior long in proportion to the sizo of the animal. The fur is soft to the touch| (liio (uul silky. The teeth, which are not robust, are yellow ; a whito Nlrcak runs from above and behind the cyo to the noslrilh, giving the noso a sharp and point- ed appearance. This white lim* In marked on the upper surface with an edge of brown ; a minuto lino of rufous runs from the nose through the cyo, terminating nt tliocur, another commencing under the eye, and running pai'allol with the last, terminates on the neck ; a line of black conimonfiing on the forehead, extends over the back and tcrmindtps nt tliu tail ; this is succeeded on each side by a broad lino of whitiNli-HMli, then by a narrower line of brown, commencing back of lliq ni'ck and rimning parallel with the rest, till it is narrowed lo n point on the hips; this is succeeded by a line of pure white on each side, similar to the broader nnd HlioWpr stripe of brown, givinc finally, by it on the back one stripe of blnck, two of light ash, and four of light brown. The head ih oinoruous ; thy cars liave a white spot V 834 APPKNDIX. on their posterior Burfaco, similar to tiie last species, and also to another dcHcribcd by Say, as the Scivrus quairivitatua, with which I have coinpurod it. The nccit and whole of the under surface, including tlio legs and thighs, arc white. The tail, which is quite narrow, is dark brown above, edged with light rufous. Beneath, it iH rufous near the roots, then a line of black edged with light rufous ; from the end of the vertebrtc to the extremity, the hairs an; black, a few of them are tipped with light rufous." This species is found very plentiful along the banks of the Rio Colorado, but I think does not inhabit a very extensive range, as I never saw it aftor leaving this river. It keeps almost constantly among heaps of stones, on the tops of which it often perches, extending its long tail over its back, ond curving it down in front of its head. At such times it emits a lively, garrulous note like the squeaking of a young puppy ; but if approached, darts off with astonishing swillness, carrying the tail level with the ground, and almost eluding the oyo by tho activity of its motions, and con- ceals itself under some jutting rock or in the interstices of a stone heap until tho intruder has passed. — Towns, in lit. TowNSENo's Gbeat>eared Bat. PlecotuH*Town»endii, (Coopeb,) Annals of the Lyceum of Nat. History of N. York, Vol. 4,- p. 73. [Plate 3, fig. 6, the head.] So-capual of tho Chinook Indians. " Fur on tho back dusky at base, brown at the tips, with a ferruginous cast, tho two tints appearing neai'ly uniform. The ears are fringed with fur. Beneath, the fur is of a reddish cinereous or ochrcous hue, lighter towards the tail, but not in the least whitish. Tho noso is similar to the P. Lecontii, but the fleshy crests between the eyes and nostrils appear to be still larger, and in the preserved specimens are much more con- spicuous. Tho oars oro similar, though every way more ample in the present, and presenting a different outline immediately after rising from tho forehead ; the auricle broader and larger. The wing and tail membranes are entirely naked, dusky, of a thicker texture, and much more strongly reticulated than in the first species . , APPENDIX. 325 as Incisors i, canines —, molars r-^=» 36, ' 1—1' 0—0 Total length, . . . 3.8 inches. Ears, .... 1.1 " Tail, . . . . 1.7 " Fore arm, . . . 1.8 " Tibia, . . . . 0.8 " Spread, . . . 11.0 " Three specimens of this very distinct new species were brought from the Columbia river by Mr. John K. Townsend, where he procured them on his late journey. It is very like the P. Le- contii, but they may be readily known by the color of the under part of the body, besides which they differ in almost all their details of color and proportions, the present being a larger and more robust animal. Together, they seem to form a small group in the genus, characterized by the double fleshy crest of the nose, which is not mentioned as occurring in any other species. Verpertilio megalotis, (Raf.) Plecotis Rafineaquii, (Lesson,) which is described as having the auricle as long as the ears, can- not be either of our species. I am not acquainted with any other species within the United States." Inhabits the Columbia river district, rather common. Fre- quents the store houses attached to the forts, seldom emerging from them even at night. This, and a species of Verpertilio, -(F. subulatus,) which is even more numerous, are protected by the gentlemen of the Hudson's Bay Company, for their services in destroying the dermestes which abound in their fur establish* ments. — Towns. 1 Townsend's Hare. Lepus *Town8endii, (Baciiman.) Journal Acad. Nat. Sci- ences. Vol. 8, part I., figure. Poolalik of the Walla-walla and Nez Perces Indians. " This species, which is another of the discoveries of Mr. Townsend, and of which no specimen exists in any museum that I have had an opportunity of examining, is one of the most sin- gular hares that has fallen under my notice. Characters. — Size of the northern hare, {L, americanus.) Ears, tail, legs, and tarsi, very long. Color above, light gray ; 326 APPENDIX. beneath, white. Crown of the head, cheeks, neck, and whole upper parts — the front of the cars and legs, externally — gray, with a faint cream-colored wash. Hairs whitish, or silver-gray at base, then brownish-white, then black, with a faint cream tinge, and ultimately tipped with black ; interspersed with long, silky hairs, some of which arc wholly black. Chin, throat, whole under surface, interior of legs, the whole of the tail, (with the exception of a narrow, dark, line on the top,) pure white to the roots. Irides light hazel ; around the eyes white. The tips of the back parts of the cars black ; the external two-thirds of the hinder part of the cars white, running down the back part of the neck, and there mingling with the color of the upper surface; the interior third of the outer portion of the ear, the same gray color as the back, fringed on the edge with long hairs, which are red- dish-fawn at the roots, and white at the tips. The interior of the ear is very thinly scattered with beautiful, fine white hairs, being more thickly clothed towards the edge, where it is grizzled black and yellowish, but the edge itself is fringed with pure white, becoming yellowish towards the tip, and at the tip is black. Whiskers nearly as long as the head, for the most part white, black at the roots ; a few hairs are pure white, others wholly black. Dimensions. From nose to insertion of tail, " tail to end of hair, (( u (vertebra),) about . Ears measured posteriorly, . Length of head measured over the forehead, 4 " from eye to nose, " from heel to longest nail, . The specimen from which the above description and drawing were taken, was a female, procured by Mr. Townsend on the Walla-walla, one of the sources of the Columbia river." This species is common on the Rocky Mountains. I made particular inquiries, both of the Indians and British traders, re- garding the changes it undergoes at different seasons, and they all assured me that it never was lighter colored. We first saw it on the plains of Blackfoot river, west of the mountains, and 21 inches lines 5 " 6 « 3 " 3 « 4 " 9 « ,4 " 6 " 2 « " 6 •' 6 " AP1>END1X. 327 observed it in all similar situations during our route to the Co- lumbia. When first seen, which was in July, it was lean and unsavory, having, like our common species, the larva of an in- sect imbedded in its neck, but when wc arrived at Walla-walla, in September, wo found the Indians, and the persons attached to the fort, using them as a common article of food. Immediately after we arrived we were regaled with a dish of hares, and I thought I had never eaten anything more delicious. They are found here in great numbers on the plains covered with worm- wood, (Arttmeaia,) under the close branches of which they often squat when pursued. I "'ill not be qualified that this animal " can leap twenty-one feet at a bound," but it is so exceedingly fleet, that no ordinary dog can catch it. I have frequently sur- prised it in its form, and shot it as it leapt away, but I found it necessary to be very expeditious, and to pull trigger at a par- ticular instant, or the game was off amongst the wormwood, and I never saw it again. The Indians kill them with arrows, by approaching them stealthily as they lie concealed under the bushes, and in winter take them with nets. To do this, some one or two hundred Indians, men, women, and children, collect and enclose a large space with a slight net, about five feet wide, made of hemp ; the net is kept in a vertical position by pointed sticks attached to it, and driven info the ground. These sticks are placed about five or six f(;et apart, and at each one an Indian is stationed with a short club in his hand. After these arrangements are completed, a large number of Indians enter the circle, and beat the bushes in every direction. The frightened hares dart off towards the nets, and, in attempting to pass, are knocked on the head and secured. Mr. Pambrun, the superintendent of Fort Walla-walla, from whom I obtained this account, says that he has often participated in this sport with the Indians, and has known several hundred to be thus taken in a day. When "aptured alive, it does not scream like the common gray rabbit, (Lcpiis sylvaticus.) This species inhabits the plains exclusively, and seems par- ticularly fond of the vicinity of the aromatic wormwood. Imme- diately as you leave these bushes, in journeying towards the sea, you lose sight of the hare. — Towns, in lit. to Dr. Bachman. m 328 API'ENDIX. WoHMwooD Hare. Lepus *artemcsia, (Baciiman.) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences, vol. 8, part I. I-iks, of the Walla-walla, and Nez Perces In- dians. " Characters. — Small ; of a gray color, with pale rusty on the back of the neck and legs. Tail above, the color of the body; beneath white. Under parts of the neck, and lower surface of the body white, all the fur being gray at the base. Ears as long as the head ; tarsus well clothed. Description. — The head is much arched — upper incisors deeply grooved. The color of this species is grizzled black, and brownish-white above. The fur is soft, pale gray at the base, shaded into brownish externally, annulated with brownish-white near the apex, and black at the tips. Under parts, and inner sides of limbs, white, the hairs pale gray at the base. Neck, with the hairs on the sides and under parts, gray, tipped with brown- ish-white, having a faint yellow hue. Chin and throat grayish- white, the hairs being gray at the base, and white at their tips. The whole back of the neck, and limbs exteriorly, of a pale, rusty fawn color ; those on the neck uniform to the base. Feet beneath, a very pale, soiled yellow-brown. Tail, colored above as the back, with an admixture of grayish-black hairs ; beneath white. Ears externally on t'lo anterior part, colored as the crown of the head, posteriorly ashy-white ; — at the apex mar- gined with black ; internally nearly naked, excepting on the posterior part, where they are grizzled with grayish-black and white ; in the apical portion, they are chiefly white. Dimensions. Length from nose to root of tail, From heel to point of longest nail, . Height of ear externally, From ear to point of nose. Tail, (vertebrsE,) about. Do. to end of fur, , This email hare, inhabits the wormwood plains near the banks of the streams in the neighborhood of Fort Walla-walla. I cannot define its range with any degree of certainty, but I have 12 inches 3 It 2 2 t( 8 2 <( 7 1 (t 1 1 (( 9 lined. (( » lines, « APPENDIX. 320 reason to believe tliat it is very contracted, never having met with it many miles from this locality. It is here abundant, but very shy and retired, keeping constantly in the densest worm> wood bushes, and leaping, with singular speed, from one to another, when pursued. I have never seen it dart away, and run to a great distance like other hares. I found it very difficult to shoot this animal for the reasons stated. I had been residing at Fort Walla-walla for several weeks, and had procured only two, when, at the suggestion of Mr. Pambrun, I collected a party of a dozen Indians armed with bows and arrows, and sallied forth. We hunted through the wormwood, within about a mile of the fort, and in a few hours returned, bringing eleven hares. The keen eyes of the Indians discovered the little creatures squatting under the bushes, when, to a white man, they would have been totally invisible. This hare when wounded and taken, screams like our common species. — Towns, in lit. to Dr. Bachman. Oregon Flying Squirrel. Pteromys * Oregonensis, (Bachman,) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences, Vol. 8 part, I. "Characters. — Intermediate in size, between P. volucella, and the northern P. sahrinus ; ears longer than the latter species ; fur more compact ; the lobe of the flying membrane joining the fore foot, much longer in proportion, making that membrane broader ; foot larger ; general color above brown ; beneath yellowish- white. Description. — All the fur of this species is deep gray at the base ; that of the back tipped with yellowish-brown ; tail, pale brown .above, dusky towards the extremity ; beneath, brownish- white. Whiskers numerous, and very long, chiefly of a black color, and grayish at the tips. Hairs covering the flying mem- brane chiefly black, most of them slightly tipped with pale brown ; feet dusky ; around the eyes blackish ; ears with mi- nute, adpressed brown hairs externally, and brownish-white : internally. This species diflcrs much from P. sahrinus in several very striking particulars. Although a smaller animal, the bono of the wrist, which supports the flying membrane, is eleven and a half 42 3»U APrKNIUX. lines in length, wlii.st llmt of the formor is only nine ; tlius the smallest aniiiinl has I'lc largest flying mombrani!. The fur of 1*. sahrinus is much fhc longest. The fur on the belly of the latter is white, whilst that of orcgoncnsin has un ochrcous tinge. The hairs on the tail of P. sabrinus arc only slightly tinged with lead color at the roots, whilst in orrgoneima it extends to half the length of the hairs. The greater length and less breadth, however, of il", ear of the latter, is a sufficient mark of distinc- tion. From our little Pteromys volucella, the ditlbrence is so great, that it is unnecessary to institute a particular comparison. Be- sides being much larger than our little species, and not possess- ing the beautiful downy-white on the be«ly, the two spe- cies may be instantly detected, in the volticclla having its hairs white to the roots, which is not the case in the other species. Dimensions. Length from point of nose to root of tail, " tail to point of fur. Height of ear posteriorly. Breadth between the outer edges of the flying membrane, ..... Longest hind toe, including nail, . Lo'.igcst fore toe, including nail, From heel to point of nail, " nose to ear, This species inhabits the pine woods of the Columbia, near the sea ; very rare. Habits of the P. volucella. — Towns, in lit. Townsend's Goi'uer. Geomys *Townsendii, (^Richardson's manuscripts,) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences, Vol. 8, Part I. General color very pale gray above, with a faint yellowish wash; muzzle dusky-gray; under parts grayish-white; chin pure white. Tail and feet white ; the former grayish above. Hairs of the back very pale gray at the base, pale yellow at the apex, the extreme tip cinereous. Teeth yellowish-white. Upper inci- sors with a faint groove near the internal margin. Claws and fore feet moderate, white. 6 inches , 8 lines- 6 " " • 7 " 8 " " • 5\ " . 5i « 1 " 6d •« 1 " 6 "" APPENDIX. 8tl 7 inches, 6 lines. 2 «« 9 " 1 •« 3i " Dimensions, From nose to tail, Tail, .... Tarsus, .... Central claw of fore foot, From nose to car, . The specimen was procured by Mr. Townsend on the Colum- biu river. I am obliged to confess that I should not have ventured to pub- lish this species as distinct from G. borealis, on my own respon- sibility. The discriminating eye of Dr. Richardson, however, who has studied this genus more carefully than I have had an opportunity of doing, may have detected marks of difference which I have not been able to discover. — Bach. CATALOGUE OF BIRDS, FOUND IN THE TEBMITOnY OF THE OKEGON. (Cj" The new species are designated by an • preceding the vulgar name. Californian Vulture, Cathartcs californianus. Turkey Buzzard, or Vulture, Cathartes aura. Golden Eagle, Falco chrysa'etos. White-headed, or Bald Eagle, Falco leucocephalus. Fish Hawk, Falco hali«Btus. Sparrow Hawk, Falco sparverius. Pigeon Hawk, Falco columbarius. Merlin, Falco cesalon. , Great-footed, or Duck Hawk, Falco peregrimis. Sharp-shinned Hawk, Falco velox. Hen Harrier, or Marsh Hawk, Falco cyaneus. Cooper's Hawk, Falco Cooper ii. Red-tailed Hawk, Falco borealis% Black Hawk, Falco sancti-johannes, , Rough-legged Hawk, or Falcon, Falco lagopus. Common Hawk, or Buzzard, Falco (huteo) vulgaris. 3.32 API'ENDIX. \ Winter Hawk, or Falcon, Falco hycmalis. Great Cinereous Owl, Strix cinerea. Orcat-horncd Owl, Strix virginianu. Red Owl, Strix agio. Mottled Owl, Strix nwvia. • Long-cared Owl, Strix otus. Short-cared Owl, Strix brachyotvs. Little Owl, Strix acadica. Tcngmalm'ti Owl, Strix Tengmalmi. Burrowing Owl, Strix cunicularia. Passerine Owl, Strix pasaerinoides. Meadow Lark, or Starling, Sturnun ludoeicianux. Red-winged Starling, or Oriole, Icterus phamiceua, Bullock's Oriole, Icterus Bullocki. , Rusty Blackbird, or Graklc, Quiscalus ferrugineua. Raven, Corvua corax. Common Crow, Corvua corone. Fish Crow, Corvua oaaifragus. Magpie, Corvua pica. Clark's Crow, Corvua columbianua. Steller's Jay, Garrulua Stelleri. Ultramarine Jay, Garrulua ultramarinus. Canada Jay, Garrulua canadensis. Black-capt Titmouse, Parua atricapillus. •Chestnut-backed Titmouse, Parua rufescena, (Townsenu.) *Brown-headcd Titmouse, Parua minimus, (Townbend,) Cedar Bird, or Cherry Bird, Bomhycilla carolinensia. Great American Shrike, Lanius aeptentrionalia. Loggerhead Shrike, Laniua ludovicianua. Tyrant Flycatcher, or King Bird, Muacicapa tyrannua. Cooper's Flycatcher, Muacicapa Cooperi. Pewit Flycatcher, Muacicapa fuaca. Wood Pewee Flycatcher, Muacicapa virena. Small Green-crested Flycatcher, Muacicapa acadica. Traill's Flycatcher, Muacicapa Trailli. Little Flycatcher, Muacicapa pusilla, (Swainson.) Arkansas Flycatcher, Muacicapa verticalis. Say's Flycatcher, Muacicapa Saya. Yellow-bieasted Chat, Icteria viridis. AI'I'KNUIX. X\H SEND.) «D.) 1U8. a. Sdlilary I'Mycatclior, or Vi.\iu, Virco tolUariut. VVurbliii^ l''lyi;at(;liur, ur V'iruo, Vireo gihut. Whilu'ttyinl l*'lycatchor, or Vireo, Vireo novehoracr.n»i$. *Muuiitiiiii Moi'kiiiK Hird, Orphem montanut, (Tuwnhmno.) Atiiitriiiiiii Uobin, Turdu» migratoriua. Vuryitig 'riirunli, 'Vurdua nmoia. lloriiiit Tliruith, 'Arr/uA minor. VVilNori*N 'I'uwiiy Thruah, 'furdua Wiltonii. tluldiiii.rrowiioil ThriiBh, Ttirduc aum-'^pillua. *Wliitu tniind Tlinmht {not in the collection.) •TowiiHcnd'ii 'riiruNli, Ptiliogonya Towniient'i,{\vHVW\n,) *Mort ♦Oregon Snow Finch, Fringilla Oregona, (Townsend.) Ash-colored Finch, Fringilla cinerea, (Gm.) Evening Grosbeak, /Vtng-iV/a wes/>er/i/jo. Mottled, or Spotted Grosbeak, Fringilla maculata. - - *Green-tailed Finch, Fringilla (not described.) ; i Black-headed Finch, Fringilla artricapilla, (Gm.) " Lark Finch, Fringilla grammaca. Tree Sparrow, Fringilla canadensis. Field Sparrow, Fringilla pusilla. American Crossbill, Loxia curvirostra. Yellow-billed Cuckoo, Coccyzus americanus. Red-shafted Woodpecker, Picus mexicanus. Pileated Woodpecker, Picus pileattis. Lewis Woodpecker, Picus torquatus. Red-breasted Woodpecker, Picus ruber. •Black, White-Banded Wookpecker, (not in the collection.) *BIack, Red-Backed Woodpecker, (not in the collection.) *Harris' Woodpecker, Pictis Harrisi, (ArnuBoN.) Downy Woodpecker, Picus pubescens. White-breasted Nuthatch, Sitta carolinensis. Red-bellied Nuthatch, Sitta canadensis. Common Creejjer, Certhia familiaris. Nootka Humming Bird, Trochilus rufus. ^ American Kingfisher, Alcedo alcyon. Barn Swallow, Hirundo rufa. Marten, Hirundo purpurea. Cliff, or Republican Swallow, Hirundo fulva. White-bellied Swallow, Hirundo bicolor. Bank Swallow, Hirundo riparia. Violet-green Swallow, Hirundo thalussina. *Vaux's Chimney Swallow, Cypselns Fattxi, (Townsend.) APPENDIX. 335 nnea. ') ion.) 3ND.) Night HsiV/k, Caprimulgt.a virginianus. Band-tail Pigeon, Columbafasciata. Passenger Pigeon, Columba migratoria. Turtle Dove, Columba carolinensis. Plumed Partridge, Perdix plumifera, (Gouid.) ' *Long-tailed Black Pheasant, (not in the collection.) Ruffed Grouse or Pheasant, Tetrao umbellus, Dusky Grouse, Tetrao obacurus. • , . Cock of the piama, Tetrao urophasianus. .'.. . Spotted Grouse, Tetrao canadensis. Sharp-tailed Grouse, Tetrao phasianellua. White-tailed Grouse, Tetrao leucurus. Water Birds. *White-legged Oyster-catcher, Hcematopus Bachmani, (Atrn.) Killdeer Plover, Charadriua vociferus, *Rocky Mountain Plover, Charadriua montanus, (Townsend.) Hooping Crane, or Stork, Grua americana. Brown, or Sandhill Crane, Grua canadenaia. Great Blue Heron, Ardea herodiaa. Night Heron, Ardea nycticorax. American Avocet, Recurviroatra OTnericana. Long-billed Curlew, Numeniua longiroatria. Esquimaux Curlew, Numeniua borealia. Red-backed Sandpiper, Tringa alpina. Little Sandpiper, Tringa Wilsonii. SemipaltT.ated Sandpiper, Tringa semipalmata. *Townsend's Sandpiper, Frinca Townsendi, (AuDUBoi«.) Spotted Sandpiper, Totanua macularia. Yellow-shanks Snipe, Totanua fiavipea. Semipalmated Snipe, oi* Willet, Totanua semipalmatua. Great Marbled Godwit, Limosa fedocC. Common American Snipe, Scolopax ff'ilaonii. Red-breasted Snipe, Scolopax grisea. Soree, or Rail, Rallua carolinus. Common Coot, Fulica americana. Hyperborean Phalarope, Phaluropus hyperboreus. Wilson's Phalarope, Phalaropua JVilaonii. Red Phalarope, Phalaropua fulicariua. Little Grebe, Podicepa minor. moft APPENDIX. Red-necked Grebe, Podiceps rubricollis. Black Tern, Sterna nigra. '• Glaucous Gall, Larus glaucous. Common Gnll, Larus canus. i i- Ring-billed Gull, Larua zonorrhynchus. Wilson's Stormy Petrel, • Thalassidroma Wilsonii. Brown Albatross, Diomedeafuaca. , White, or Snow Goose, .Snaer hyperboreus. White-fronted Goose, Anaer albifrons. Black-headed Goose, Anaer canadensis. Hutchins's Brant Goose, Anser Hutchinaii. Bewick's Swan, Cygnus Bewickii. Trumpeter Swan, Cygnus buccinator, (Richardson.) Mallard Duck, Jinas boschas. American Widgeon, Anas Americana. Summer, or Wood Duck, Anas aponsa. Green- winged Teal, Anas crecca. Shoveller Duck, Anas clypeata. Dusky Duck, Anaa obscura. Pintail Duck, Anas acuto. Black, or Surf Duck, Fuligula perspicillata.. Blue-bill, or Scaup Duck, Fuligula marila. Canvass-back Duck, Fuligula valisneria. Tufted, or Ring-necked Duck, Fuligula rufitorques. Harlequin Duck, Fuligula histrionica. Golden-eye Duck, Fuligula elangula. Long-tailed Duck, Fuligula glacialis. Goosander, Mergus merganser. Hooded, or Crested Merganser, Mergus cucullatus. White Pelican, Pelecanus onocrotalus. Brown Pelican, Pelecanus fuscus. ^ Black Cormorant, Phalacrocorax carbo. *Violet-green Cormorant, Phalacrocorax splendens, (Town- send.) *Townsend's Cormorant, Phalacrocorax Townsendi, (Au- dubon.) Loon, or Great Northern Diver, Colymhtis glar'alis. Black Guillemot, Uria grylle. *Slender-billed Guillemot, Uria Townsendi. (Audubon.) ArPHNItlX. m CuBBrNUT'llACIKIlD TiTMOVSE. Parua *rufe»cen8, (Townnrno,) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences, Vol. 7, part II.,. p. 190, AiululionV Birdsof America, Vol. 4, pi. 353. Male and female. 'Pntooquulla of the Chinook Indians. Bill black ; head and throat sooty-brown, or dark umber ; a white line from the bill uiidt^r (ho eye, extending to the hind- head, where it incroaaoi coHdidombly in breadth ; whole back and rump chestnut; wings ond omarginate tail dusky; the exterior edges of the feathers of the former, as well as the coverts, whitish; breast, belly and v«i«t, gray ish-white, the base of the plumage blackish ; flanks chtmtnut; legs and feet blue. Length scarcely 4| inches ; extent of wings Od iiiches. The sexes are very nearly alike. Inhabits the Columbia fivor | common, gregarious. Voice s)mewhat similar to P. atrimpillm^ but sharper and more ::queaking. BROWNOIRADHn TiTMOtfSK. Parus *minimu8, (TowNSSNli,) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences, Vol. 7, part II., p, 190. Audubon's Birds of America, Vol. IV. pi. 353. Male, female and nest. A-ka-ke-tok of the Chinook Indians. Bill short, stout, and entirely black ; top of the head light-brown or rust color, paler on the chocks ) whole back and rump cine- reous-gray ; the wings and tail einoroous-brown, the feathers of the former edged exteriorly and interiorly with light gray ; third and fourth primaries longest ; tail remarkably long, of twelve rather narrow feathers ; whole lower parts gray, the belly and flanks inclining to rust. Legs and fe@t blackish. Irides yellow. Whole length 4 inches ; length of tdll 'i inches ; extent of wings 5 inches. The male and female ftro very similar in size and markings. I first observed this littlo N|)0(;ioi on the Columbia river in May, 1835, and procured ft pair. They hopped through the bushes, and hung from the twigs in the manner of other titmice, twittering all the time, with a rapid enunciation, resembling the words, tsish-tgiah-taee-taee. 11 pen my return, I found that Mr. Nuttall had observed the same birds n few hours previously in another place. He said that they (Voquently flew to the ground 48 886 APFRNDIX. from the bushes, whore they appuared to institute a rapid search for insects, and quickly returned to the perch, emitting their weak, querulous note the whole time without intermission. The stomachs of tliose birds contained fragments of minute coleop- terous insects, and in the ovary of the female was an egg nearly ready for expulsion. The nest, which Mr. N. found n few days afterwards, is a very curious and Ixiiiutiful fabric, somewhat like that of the bottle tit of Fluropc, Ixiing from eight to nine inches in length, formed of tine bent, lined with huir, and covered externally with mosses, the hole for entrance near the top. It was suspended from a low bush, and contained seven eggs, very small and beautifully shaped, and pure white. Mountain Mocking-bird. OrpheuH *montanu», (Townsend,) Journal Acad. Nat. Sci- ences, Vol. 7, pud 11., p. 103. Audubon's Birds of America, Vol. IV., pi. 30U. Male. Mandibles black, the lower flesh-color at base ; whole upper parts dull grayish-cinoreous, slightly barred transversely with white ; flexure of the wing and axillarics whitish ; third pri- mary longest, first and fiAh nearly equal ; tail long, rounded, of a dark cinereous color, the three lateral feathers with a large white spot on the tip of the inner vanes ; lower parts white, with longitudinal, oblanccolatc spots of black, largest and most nu- merous on the breast ; a line formed of small black spots extends from the base of the lower mandible on either side, down upon the breast; flanks, vent, and inferior tail-coverts whitish, strongly tinged with bay. Legs and feet yellowish flesh-color. Irides bright yellow. Length 8 inches. Female unknown. Inhabits the banks of the Platte river, west of the Rocky Mountains. v Townsend's Thhusii. *Ptiliogonya *'foienaetuli, (Audubon.) Birds of America, Vol. IV., pi. 410. Female. Bill black ; whole upper parts of a dark, smoke-gray color, inclining to yellowish ; tail somewhat emarginate, long, the fea- thers black, except the two middle ones, which are of the same color as the bark, the outer one almost wholly white, and the Rocky AI'l'UNDIX. 339 two next largely tipped with white ; wings blackish, the feathers broadly margined with light grayish-cinereous; a triangular s[>ot of yellowish-rufous below the lesser coverts, which is scarcely visible when the wing is closed ; lower parts nearly the same color as the back, but lighter; vent, and inferior tail-coverts yel- lowish-rusty. Logs and feet blackiah-brown. Irides dark hazel. Length Tj inches. ' ' Of this singular bird I know nothing, but that it was shot by my friend Captain W. Brotchie, of the Honorable Hudson's Bay Company, in a pine forest near Fort George, (Astoria.) It was the only specimen seen. Morton's Watek Ouzijl. Cinclua *Mortoni, (Townsend.) Audubon's Birds of Ame- rica, Vol. IV., pi. 435. Male. Upper mandible black ; lower brownish-yellow, the point black ; head, and neck above, dark cinereous ; back, rump and tail plumbeous ; dusky, plumbeous on the edges, the two greater coverts tipped with soiled white ; tail remarkably short ; eyelids white ; a scmi-lunated spot of white over the eye ; throat, breast, and upper portion of the belly, grayish-fuscous, inclining to brown, and slightly banded transversely with blackish ; abdo- men and vent, dull grayish-plumbeous ; inferior tail-coverts, which are nearly the length of the tail, barred transversely with gray and blackish. Irides dark hazel. Legs and feet brownish-yel- low. Length about 5 inches. I have honored this species with the name of my excellent friend. Doctor Samuel George Morton, of Philadelphia. It was shot by Captain W. Brotchie, near Fort McLoughlin, on the N. W. coast of America, in latitude about 49^ N. He stated that it was common there, and inhabited, like the rest of its tribe, the rapid fresh water streams. He procured but one specimen. Columbian VV'ater Ouzel. Ciuclus*Townscndi, (Audubon.) Birds of America, Vol. IV., pi. 435. Female. Upper mandible black, the inferior edge bright yellow ; lower, yellow, black at the point; whole lower parts dark grayish- plumbeous, rather lighter on the head ; a large lunate spot of white over the eye, which inclines toward the front ; wings dark plumbeous, the shoulders lighter ; the exterior vanes of the pri. ! 840 APPKNDIX. ■f ^■. maries, secondaries, and of some of the coverts, grayish-white ; throat, breast, and medial portion of the belly dusky -cinereous; sides under the wings and flanks, dusky ; the whole inferior surface of the body is banded transversely with blackish ; the bands upon the throat are broken, and not well defined, but as they approach the tail they become more distinct ; lower tail-coverts with strongly marked alternate transverse lines of blackish and white. The tail is much longer in proportion than that of the preceding species. Irides dark hazel. Legs and feet bright yellow. Length about 7 inches. • « This fine bird inhabits the swiflly running streams of fresh water in the vicinity of Fort Vancouver. It is a very scarce species, as in all my peregrinations I have met with but two in- dividuals, only one of which I was enabled to procure. This I observed swimming about the rapids of the stream, occasionally flying for short distances over the surface, and then diving into it, and reappearing af\cr a long interval. Occasionally it would alight on the stones, and at such times jerked the tail in the manner of some of the sandpipers. I did not hear it utter any note. Hermit Wahbleh. Sylvia *occide.ntalis, (Townsend.) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences, Vol. 7, part II., p. 190. Audubon's Birds of America, Vol. IV., pi. 395. Male and female. The bill is wholly black ; the frontlet, crown, and sides of the head yellow, the former rather sparingly dotted with blackish near the nape, where the yellow color almost disappears, by the increase in the size of the spots ; upper parts grayish, thickly spotted with black, and most of the feathers tinged with olive ; the rump is somewhat lighter, having few or no spots, and more strongly tinged with light olive ; wings cinereous, with two bands of white; tail darker, the three lateral feathers with white on their inner vanes ; throat deep black ; whole' lower parts white. Legs and feet blackish, the soles yellow. Length -5 inches. Extent 7 inches. The female differs from the male in having the yellow of the crown and cheeks less bright, the dark spots upon the head are larger and more numerous ; the back is of a lighter tint ; the black centres of the feathers smaller, and the throat wants the jetty black which is so conspicuous in the male. Ai>P£NUIX. 341 I shot a single pair of these birds in a pine forest on the Co- lumbia flittii lumbia river, on the 28th of May, 1835. Tlicy wore about among the pine trees, very actively engaged in searching for insects, and frequently hanging from the boughs like titmice. BtACK-TUROATED GrAY VVaBBLEH. Sylvia *nig-''8ce "ownsend.) Journal Acad. Nat. Sci- ences, Vol. 7 't II, .91. Audubon's B. ■■'.■■ i America, Vol. IV, pi. 395, male. The bill is black, and stout ; crown and hind head black, the feathers edged with grayish-plumbeous ; a line from the lower mandible on each side of the head, extending to the neck, white; a similar broad white line above the checks, running parallel with the first, and approaching it on the neck ; a small bright yellow spot on the lores ; upper parts grayish-plumbeous, the back and upper tail-coverts with a few oblanceolate spots of black; wings and tail dusky, the former with two white bands; and the three exterior feathers of the latter with white on their inner vanes ; throat and pectoral collar black ; flanks with nu- merous spots of black ; axillaries grayish-white ; belly and vent white, with a tinge of yellowish. Legs and feet dusky-brown. Length nearly 5 inches. Extent of wings 7 inches. This species is not uncommon in the forests of oak on the Co- lumbia river. It is, however, singularly retired and seden- tary. Its note is a rather feeble, but agreeable warble. Sings chiefly in the morning early ; silent at mid'day. I have reason to believe, that at least a few pairs breed on the Columbia, but I have never been so fortunate as to find the nest. Townsend's Wahbler. Sylvia * Tojcnsenrft, (Nuttali-,) Jour. Acad. Nat. Sci. Vol. 7, pt. II., page 191. Audubon's Birds ofAmerica.Vol. IV. pi. 393. Male. The crown, lores, a broad patch through the eye to the hind- head, and throat, deep black, the first thickly touched towards the back part, with greenish ; back and rump greenish- yellow, spotted all over with black, the spots somewhat concealed by the recumbent plumage ; wings dusky-cinereous, edged with grayish lead-color, and crossed by two ra- ther broad bands of white ; tail emarginate, of twelve dusky feathers, the three lateral ones, with white on their inner vanes ; over the eye, from the bill to the hind-head, is a broad 342 Al'PKNUlX. line of rich yellow; a similar yellow line from the lower mandi- ble, round to the buck of the neck, joining the first, and enclos> ing the black patch ; a spot below the eye, also yellow ; breast yellow: flanks marked with >t,ilow, black, and white, the black predominating ; axillaries, belly and vent, pure white ; bill and lect black, the soles of the latter, yellow. Length 5 inches. Extent of wings 7 inches. I procured but one specimen of this beautiful bird, on the Co- lumbia river, in the spring of 1635. Early in autumn of the same year, I shot another male, in a somewhat plainer livery. It does not breed there, and I know nothing of its habits. Audubon's Warhler. Sylvia *Auduboni, (Townsend.) Journal Acad. Natural Sciences, Vol. 7, part II., p. 191. Audubon's Birds of America, Vol. IV., pi. 395. Male and female. . Bill slender, black; upper parts light plumbeous; crown, throat, rump, and sides under the wings, gamboge yellow ; lores, and a broad space behind and below the eye, including the auri- culars, black ; a white - oot above and below the eye ; feathers of the back with lo pointed spots of black, occupying the shafts, and a portion oi ach vane ; wings dusky, all the feathers edged exteriorly with grayish ; wing-coverts tipped with white, forming a large spot below the shoulder ; upper tail-coverts light plumbeous, largely lipped with black ; tail long, nearly even, blackish, edged with dark gray, and every feather, except the two middle ones, with a large spot of white on the inner vane, near the tip ; breast and sides of the belly, black ; iricdial por- tion of the latter, vent and inferior tail-coverts, white ; legs and feet brownish-black. Irides dark hazel. Length 5 inches. The female has the upper parts brownish, spotted and streaked with black ; the yellow on the crown, rump, and flanks is more restricted and fainter than in the male, and it wants the large bed of white upon the wing ; throat white; breast and belly varied with black and white. Very common on the Columbia river in the spring, where it breeds. It sings quite prettily, but, like some others of its family, is rather monotonous. The note very much resembles that of S. coronata, to which the species is closely allied, but unlike the bird just named, it keeps in the thickest and most impervious APPENaiX. M8 clumps of buslies while singing, and is always silent when en« gaged in seeking its food. TotMiE's Wahbleb. Sylvia *Tolmieif (Townsend.) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences, Vol. 8, part I. Audubon's Birds of America, Vol. IV., pi. 399. Male and female. {S. Philadelphia in the plate.) The bill is brownish above, pale flesh-color beneath, darker at the point ; lores and narrow frontlet black ; whole lioad, neck, and upper part of the breast, dark sooty-ash, the feathers of the latter fringed with white ; upper parts greenish yellow-olive ; the tail brighter, and of a uniform color, without spots; wings lightish cinereous, the exterior vanes of all the feathers, including the coverts, yellow. Legs and feet flesh-color. Length 5 inches. Extent of wings 63 inches. The female differs from the male, chiefly by having the head and throat light ash-color, without any blar^k, and in being desti- tute of the black frontlet and lores. This pretty species, so much resembling the curious S. philu' delphia of Wilson, is common in spring on the Columbia. It is mostly solitary, and extremely wary, keeping chiefly in the densest and most impenetrable thickets, and gliding through them in a very cautious and suspicious manner. It may, however, sometimes be seen towards mid-day, perched upon a dead twig over its favorite place of concealment, and at such times it war- bles a very sprightly and pleasant little song, raising its head until the bill is almost vertical, and swelling its throat in the manner of many of its relatives. I dedicate the species to my friend W. F. Tolmie, Esq., of Fort Vancouver. Western Blue Bird. Sialia *occ.identalis, (Townsend,) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences, Vol. 7, part II., p. 188. Audubon's Birds of America, Vol. IV., pi. 393. Mule and female. Bill dark horn color, or nearly black ; head, upper portion of the back, and throat, of a fine deep mazarine blue, the last some- what paler ; a broad transverse band on the interscapular region, and the whole of the lower breast and belly, dark rufousbay; wings, back, upper tail-coverts and tail, of the same deep blue as the head ; the inner vanes of all the wins; feathers dark fuscous; vent and n44 APPRNDIX. lower taiUcovcrts white ; legs and feet blackish horn-color. Irides dark hazel. Length (3i inches. v The Icmulc hiis the up|)er parts dark cinereous, slightly waved with blue; the shoulders, primary quills, upper tuiUcoverts and tail, are rich blue, as in the malt i the greater coverts and in- terior edges of the scajjulars and seconduritis, whitish ; whole lower parts light bay. the vent nnd lower tail-coverts white. About half an inch shorter than the male. Common on the Columbia river in the spring. It orrives from the south early in April, and about the first week in May com- mences building. The nest is placed in the hollow of a decayed tree, and is very loose and unsubstantial. The eggs, four to five, are light blue, somewhat larger than those of the common blue bird, {S. Wihonii.) A flock of eight or ten of these birds visited the British fort on the Columbia, on a fine day in the winter of 1835. They con- fined themselves chiefly to the fences, occasionally flying to the ground and scratching among the snow for minute insects, the fragments of which were found in the stomachs of several which I killed. Afler procuring an insect, the male usually returned to the fence again, and warbled for a minute most delightfully. This note, although somewhat like that of our common Wihonii, is still so ditferent as to be easily recognised. It is equally sweet and clear, but of so little compass, (at this season,) as to be heard only a short distance. In the spring if is louder, but it is at all times much less strong than that of the common species. ClIKSTNIJT-COLOHED FiNClI. Plectrophancs *ornata, (Townsend,) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences, Vol. 7, part II., p. 189. Audubon's Birds of America, Vol. IV., pi. 394. Male. Mandibles pale flesh-color, the upper, black along the ridge, and both black at tip ; upper portion of the head blaf k ; a line of white commences at the nostrils, and passes over the eye, where it is expanded so as to form a large semi-lunated spot, and is con- tinued irregularly back to the nape ; below this and towards the throat are several irregular alternate spots of white and black ; auriculars, and gular region faint rufous ; a broad transverse band of deep bay on the hind part of the neck, comprehending a portion of the back ; upper part of the body light cinereous, with AIM'KNDtX. mri niimorous spots of dusky ; tliosc spots run into rnch other so as to l)o Hciirccly distinj^uislmblo; wini^s dusky ; first nnd second primnrios nearly equni, and lonu;cst ; upper i!overts of the wing slightly ciljred with cream; fi large transverse hand of white upon the lower |)()rtion of the thront, margining the faint rufous of the gular region, and joining th(! Imy on tlm hind part of the neck ; breast and abdomen deep black, irregularly wavcMl with cinereous and white ; vent and inferior tail-covorts white ; tail emarginnte, the outer feathers nearly all white; all the others with a large portion of white, chielly on their inner vanes, the tips dusky. Legs and feet yellowish-dusky. Iridcs dark hazel. Length 5] inches. Female unknown. I'-habits the plains of the I'latte river, near the first range of the Rooky Mountains. It appears to live exclusively upon the ground, and is u very rare and shy species. I procured but one specimen. Townsend's GKorrrn FiNcir, or Lonospuh. Plcctrophitnes *Townncndi, (A' dihon.) Uirds of America, Vol. IV., pi. 424. Female. Upper mandible cinnamon ; lower, light yellow ; whole upper parts, and tail, dark rufous ; wing feathers blackish, edged with yellowish-rufous; throat, breast, and belly white, with numerous irregular spots and blotches of dark brown ; a line of brown and black spots extends from the base of the lower mandible on each side, down upon the throat ; inferior portion of the flanks, vent, and upper tail-coverts, yellowish-brown, with a few spots of black occupying the centre of the feathers. Legs and feet yel- lowish, claws black. Iridcs dark hazel. Length G\ inches. This species is common in the neighborhood of Fort Vancou- ver on the Columbia. It inhabits the dense bushes chiefly in the vicinity of low, marshy places, and feeds upon coleopterous in- sects and worms, for which it searches in the ground by scratch- ing up the earth with its feet. It is observed only in the autumn and winter. (Oregon Snow Finch. Fringilla *o.-egoaa, (Townsend.) Journal Acad. Natural 44 340 Ari'KNOU. Scioncen, Vol. 7, |»art II., poge 188. Autliibi)ii'H llirdti of Aiiic- ricn, Vol. IV., pi. »y8. Mulo micl fonmio. Tho bill is a pulu flesh color, tliu up|)cr mandible browniah at tho point ; lioad, ntiok, und upper pnrt of tlio breast, black ; tho fuiitliers slightly tipped with white; on the hind-heud und buck ol'tho neck, are some touches of brown or buy, mixed with tho white sprinkling; buck rufous-brown or bay; rump grayish- plumbeous, slightly touched with buy ; upper tuiUcoverts and tail cinereous, tho former slightly tipped with pale brown, the outer vanes of the feathers of tho latter edged with tho same color ; first lalerul tail-feather pure white ; second white, with tho exception of u small edging of cinereous on the outer vane, near the tip ; third, with u broad stripe of white on tho inner vane, extending from the point nearly to th(; base; wings dark cinereous, tho outer vanes edged with whitish, the greater coverts and tei;- tials margined with buy ; third and fourth primaries nearly equal, and longest ; lower part of the breast and belly white ; flanks light yellowish-bay, the lower tail-coverts with a lighter tint of the same color ; tibial feathers cinereous, spotted with gray. Legs and feet flesh-color ; claws light horn color. Length 5^ inches. Extent of wing 8^ inches. , The female is very similar to the male, except that the general colors arc somewhat fainter. Common on tho Columbia river in winter. Clregarious. Voice, and general habits similar to F. hyemalis. Prairie Finch. Fringilla *bicolor, (Townsenu,) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences, Vol. 7, part. IL, p. 180. Audubon's Birds of America, Vol. IV., pi. .190. Male and female. Tho head and back are black, shaded with ash ; rump ash ; superior tail-coverts and tail, blackish-brown, the former slightly edged with whi'o ; all the feathers of the latter tipped with white ; a broad patch of white upon the wing ; secondaries and tertials tipped and edged with white ; throat, checks, and whole lower parts, deep black, the feathers on the belly, and tho inferior tail- coverts, tipped with white. The upper mandible is of a lightish brown color, the lower, pale bluish-white. Legs and feet olive- brown. Length 7] inches. Extent about 11 inches. .1^ AI'PRNOIX. 847 L'ral ■■«: olive- Tlin H'tntilu liflN tlin honil, omi wholn uppnr pnrU, of a light iinIi, ur id, proHniiteda eurioim, hut by no niiMitiN unptonMing cifoct. While the flock In engaged in luAiling, the nialen ant frequently observed to Hmo Nudtletil* i.' n eouNideralih* height, and poising theinsclveH over thuir eom- panioiiN, with their wingN in constant and rapid motion, they Im;* come nearly Ntationary. In this situation, thuy pour forth a number of very lively and sweetly modulated notes, iitid at iJio expiration of about a minute, descend to the ground, and eourMO alMiut BN iH'fore. 1 never observed this bird west of the Dlaek 'lilla. IIahhis's Woodpecker. lHt'u» *lliifriiilt (AuuuiiON,) Birda of America, Vol. IV., pi. 417. Mule and female. Hill bliiisli-blaek ; feathers covering tho nostrils einereoiiM* brown ; upper part of the head, and an oblong spot IhiIow the uyo, back; a hI ripe of white commences in Iron i ;' tlui eyo above, and <.\;iud by a similar stripe, which begins at the lower mandible ; tho sumit^ircle form* od by this while line, encloses the black spot, on the auriculorH; another black lino commehces at the bate of thu lower mandible, bounding the white, and is contin.if 1 down upon tho shoulder, where it is Homowhat ex[)anded anteriorly; a broad occipital band, rod ; upper parts black tho wings strongly glossed with blue ; the primaries, geeondaries, and a few of the tertails, with numo* rous spots of whito ; a stripe down the middle of the back, white; tail long, cuneiform, black, the three exterior feathers brownish* while; the whole of the lower plumage is of a deep sooty*brown, 348 APPENDIX. whitish on the flanks ; legs and feet bluish-black. Iridos dark hazel. Length 8 inches. The female differs from the male, chiefly in the absence of the red occipital band. This species, so much resembling the common P. villosus, is abundant in the forests on the Columbia river. Its habits are very similar to those of its near relative. Builds a loose and un- substantial nest, in the hollow of a decayed tree, and lays four white eggs. Vaux's Chimney Swallow. Cifpcelus * Vauxi, (Townsend,) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences, Vol. 8, part I. Female. Bill slender, black ; upper parts of a dull smoke-brown, in- clining to blackish upon the interscapular region ; shoulders and primary quills blackish ; the rump and tail are of a much lighter color than the back, being dull cinereous-brown ; shafts of the tail-feathers, and their points, black ; wings of ordinary length, extending about two inches beyond the tail ; throat, and upper portion of the breast, grayish-white ; belly, and all below, cine- reous-gray. Legs and feet brownish-black. Iridcs dark hazel. Length Sj inches. Extent of wings 10 inches. It diflers from the C. pelasgius, with which it has been confounded, in several very striking particulars. It is one inch shorter, and two inches less in extent ; the body is proportionably smaller in every aspect, and the color much lighter. This species, (which I dedicate to my friend, Wm. S. Vaux, Esq., of Philadelphia,) is common on the Columbia river; breeds in hollow trees, forming its nest in the same manner as the pelas- guis, and lays four white eggs. White-legged Oystek Catcher. Hamatopus *Bachmani, (Audubon.) Birds of America, Vol. IV., pi. 427. Male. Bill yellow, red at base, and on the superior portion of the upper mandible ; whole head, neck, and throat black ; back, wings, and rump,, brownish-fuscous, varied with a darker tint ; tail somewhat rounded, blackish, the feathers edged with lighter; flanks deep black ; belly, vent, and up|)er tail-coverts, brownish- »• . ArrENDix. 840 (lark Vaux, breeds 1 pelas- of the back, r tint ; ighter ; twnish- fuscous. Legs and feet white; claws yellowish-horn color; eyelids bright red ; irides yellow. Length about 17 inches. This fine species was shot near Puget's sound, by my friend William Fraser Tolmie, Esq., surgeon of the Honorable Hud- son's Bay Company, by whom it was presented to me. I was anxious to give to it the name of its discoverer, but I have been overruled by Mr. Audubon, who has probably had good reasons for rejecting my p-oposed specific appellation, Tohniei. Rocky Mountain Plover. Charadrius *montanus, (Townsend.) Journal Acad. Nat. Sciences, Vol. 7, part IL, p. 192. Audubon's Birds of America, Vol. IV., pi. 3.50. Male. Bill and lores black ; front white, this color being continued in a narrow line over the eye to the nape ; head-brownish-cine- reous ; back of the neck, and checks behind the eye, ycUowish- tawney ; whole upper parts yellowish-cinereous, varied with a darker tint ; wings lighter, the shoulders and flexura whitish ; nearly all the secondaries, and some of the primaries, edged with white ; upper tail-coverts, and even tail, brownish-cinereous, the latter tipped with white ; legs and feet yellowish-dusky ; claws black. Irides dark hazel. Length 8j inches. Inhabits the table land of the Rocky Mountains. I saw but one specimen of this beautiful bird, and, as our party was on the move, I was compelled to kill it without delay. Townsend's Sandpiper. *Frinca *Townscndi, (Audubon.) Birds of America, Vol. IV., pi. 428. Female. Bill yellowish-brown, black at the point; a white line below the eye ; whole upper parts dark ashy-cinereous, the secondaries centred with blackish ; rump blackish ; upper tail-coverts pure white; tail blackish-brown,' often feathers, the four lateral ones white from their insertion half way to the points, and each tipped with white ; greater wing-coverts, and bases of all the primaries, white, forming a spot upon the wing when closed ; throat white ; breast grayish-cinereous ; under surface of the wings white ; belly, vent, and lower tail-coverts white ; a few oblong black spots, chiefly on the sides, and lower-coverts ; legs and feet greenish; claws black. Irides dark hazel. Length 10.^ inches. ■^ 350 AFPENEIX. I shot one specimen of this curious bird on the base of the rocky cape at the entrance of the Columbia river, in November 1836. It was sitting on the edge of the steep rocks, and the heavy surf frequently dashed its spray over it, as it foraged among the retreating waves. When it started, it flew with a quick, jerking motion of its wing, and alighted again at a short distance. Although I resided for many weeks in the vicinity of the cape, I never saw a second specimen. The stomach, which was remarkably strong and muscular, contained fragments of a small black shell fish, of the genus Modiola, which adheres in clusters to the rocks. ViOLET-GHEBN CoRMORANT. Phalacrocorax *splendena. (Towns, in lit. to Audubon.) P. resplendens (Acdubon.) Birds of America Vol. IV., pi. 412. Female in winter. Bill greenish-dusky, blackish above ; front, light sea-green, wliich color passes behind the eye, and around the gular region, occupying the chief portion of the neck below; neck above, deep Prussian blue, with strong reflections of purple ; lateral part of the neck lighter, with numerous minute specks of white, formed by very small, hair-like feathers ; whole upper parts deep green, reflecting shades of purple and violet ; wings greenish, varied with dusky ; bare space on the gullet contracted, of a yellowish-red color ; it includes the eye, but does not extend in front to the lores ; tail long, rounded, dusky ; below, the colors are nearly the same as the back ; a few white spots on the in- ferior portion of the flanks. Legs and feet black ; the middle claw strongly pectinated. Irides light sea-green. Length about 2 foet. This most splendid of all the species of cormorants yet disco- vei . (1, inhabits in considerable numbers the Rocky Cape at the entrance of the Columbia river, upon the sides of which it often rests, and no doubt rears its young within the natural cavities which front the tempestuous ocean, and in situations wholly in- accessible to man. Sometimes many weeks elapse in which not a single cormorant is seen, when suddenly a flock of fifty or six- ty, is observed to enter the bay, every individual of which imme- diately commences an assiduous search for the small fish and mollusca which constitute its food. It never ascends the «-" APPHNDIX. 351 river, but keeping almomt coiiMtiintly around the cape, under shel- ter of the enormouB broukcrm which arc incessantly dashing against it, successfully dofioD nil ttttompts to shoot it. The pro- curing of the only spocimon which I was ever enabled to kill, almost cost the lives of myNolf tiiid eight men. Our boat was carried with frightful velocity into tlio furious breakers, and a full hour was consumed in unrtnnitting oflbrts to escape the danger towards which the swill currpnt wiw hurrying us. The Indians of the Ni W, const make cloaks of the skins of this bird sewed together. It ii probably even more numerous to the north of Cupe Disnppointmont, and must necessarily frequent less inaccessible places. Townhewd'h Co«mo«ant. Phalacrocorax *Tou>mendif{Avi)\]mti.) Birds of America, Vol. IV., pi. 413. Mulo. Bill light-yellow, black nbovn ; crown, and upper part of the neck to the interscapulars, yollowlNh-fuscous ; lateral part of the hind-head and neck, pointed with whito like the preceding spe- cies ; middle of tho bock, rump and upper tail-coverts, dark greenish, reflecting purple ; tail long, dusky ; lateral portion of the upper surface of tho body, including tho scapulars and wings, yellowish-fuscous, each ft'(Jth«r udgod with blackish ; bare space on the gullet, which ujcludos tho oyo, and extends upon the lores, light red, streaked with a deeper tint ; sides of the head, and throat whitish-cineroou*' ; broust and belly yellowish-rufous, slightly varied with dusky j vent and lower tail-coverts dark brownish-fuscous ; a fow lon|j;ttudittnl points of white on the tibial feathers ; legs and foot blat'k. hides dark hazel. Length about 28 inches. This species inhabits tho C-'tjIinnbin river, and is not uncom- mon. It is seldom seen f\mr the sen, but is mostly observed high up upon the river. It Is, like most species of its genus, par- tially gregarious, and is fond of resting in company. The old trees which are fastened in tho bottom of the river, and protrude above the surface, and the isolated rocks in the stream, are its favorite places of resort, lloro it sits, sometimes for hours to- gether, indolently gazing into tho water, nnd only leaving its perch to seize an unsuspocting fish, which may happen to pass • 353 API'HNDIX. M near it. It is very shy nnd cautious, and is seldom killed even by tho Indians, who uro Ibnd of its flesh. 8M'iNPKn «:.,